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Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..ebb4db2 --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #51800 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/51800) diff --git a/old/51800-0.txt b/old/51800-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index e1ee56b..0000000 --- a/old/51800-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,10993 +0,0 @@ -Project Gutenberg's Wild Sports In The Far West, by Frederick Gerstaecker - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license - - -Title: Wild Sports In The Far West - -Author: Frederick Gerstaecker - -Illustrator: Harrison Weir - -Release Date: April 19, 2016 [EBook #51800] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK WILD SPORTS IN THE FAR WEST *** - - - - -Produced by Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images available at The Internet Archive) - - - - - - - - - - [Illustration: AN UNEXPECTED RENCONTRE. - - MEISEL BRO^{S}. LITH] - - - - - WILD SPORTS - - IN - - The Far West. - - BY FREDERICK GERSTAECKER. - - Translated from the German. - - WITH EIGHT CRAYON DRAWINGS, - - EXECUTED IN OIL COLORS, - - FROM DESIGNS BY HARRISON WEIR. - - BOSTON: - CROSBY, NICHOLS AND COMPANY. - 117 WASHINGTON STREET. - 1859. - - CAMBRIDGE: - ALLEN AND FARNHAM, ELECTROTYPERS AND PRINTERS. - - - - -PREFACE. - - -On my return, a short time since, to my native land, from the wilds of -America, it was not at first my intention to offer to the public the -contents of the diary I had kept during my travels, and written out in -detail as an employment for my leisure hours, for the exclusive use of -my family in Germany. Incited, however, by the interest awakened by the -publication of a few extracts in one of our periodicals, and yielding to -the wishes expressed by various friends who had read the remainder, I -undertook to correct and revise my notes, and to mould into a continuous -narrative a diary which I had only kept when circumstances worthy of -being chronicled arose,--for instance, on the voyage out, on my march -through the United States, during my sojourn among the swamps of -Arkansas, and finally during my hunting trip in the Ozark mountains. - -I have endeavored faithfully to portray the social condition of the -Americans, in so far as it came under my observation, and many a reader, -while turning over the pages of this work, will seek in vain the wonted -glowing descriptions of the riches and plenty which the dwellers in the -West are reputed to enjoy. It is true that the American farmer -commencing operations with small means, may, by dint of _very_ strenuous -exertions, realize an independence in a shorter time than would suffice -for this object in our old fatherland; but, on the other hand, he must -be prepared to renounce every thing that gladdened his heart in his -native country--and only too quickly will he discover that to wean -himself from the comforts to which he has been from childhood -accustomed, to quit the society and intercourse of the civilized world, -and to seek in a far land a life of freedom indeed, but likewise of -solitude and privation, is a harder task than it at first appeared. And -not every man is sufficiently strong of heart to bear the emigrant’s lot -without a murmur. - -But should any inveterate sportsman, with an imagination heated by the -description of these scenes, excited by the dangers and difficulties of -the enterprise, depart to the far West, to experience similar -adventures, let him remember, when wet, hungry, alone, and a prey to -mosquitoes, he lies stretched in the untrodden forest, longing in vain -for a fire, and for the society of men; or when he has been following -the tracks of the deer for days together, without the chance of a single -shot, until he can almost persuade himself that the tales he has read -of wild sports in the West are but myths existing only in the brains of -the Indians; let him, I say, remember that I have, so far as in me lay, -painted all this in its true colors, and that many an adventure which -reads admirably on paper, is in reality the reverse of romantic. - -The chase in the United States is, moreover, rapidly on the decline; for -the American hunter spares nothing, and for some time, particularly -since the day when skins were first paid for in hard dollars, a war of -extermination has been waged against the poor stags and bears;--so that -the hunter who, some five years hence, shall visit these realms, will -scarcely find his expectations of sport realized, unless he is prepared -either to content himself with small game, or to penetrate to the Rocky -Mountains, and explore the territory of the Indians. - -With the concluding request to my readers, to remember that these pages -are penned by a man who, so to speak, has but just emerged from the -forest, and who relates his experiences to his friends at home, not -caring for the fact that he might, perhaps, by adopting a different -method, have told his story with more effect, this diary is submitted to -the kind consideration of the public, by - -THE AUTHOR. - - - - - CONTENTS. - - - CHAPTER I. - - FROM BREMEN TO NEW YORK. - - The Bremen Lighter--A Parting Jollification--The good Ship - “Constitution”--The Steerage--The Last of Germany--Sea-sickness--Life - on Board--The Channel--Sea Sights--A Shark--A Wreck--Bathing - at Sea--Dancing on Board--Stormy Weather--The Coast of - Newfoundland--Festivities on the 4th of July--Shark and - Pilot-Fish--Mother Carey’s Chickens--Land ho!--Staten Island--Our - Destination.....pp. 1--30 - - - CHAPTER II. - - NEW YORK TO BUFFALO. - - Car-drivers--An Irish Funeral--German Boarding-House--A Pulpit - in a State of Siege--Negroes at New York--Shooting Excursion - near New York--Railway to Utica--American Canal Boat--My - Fat Fellow-passenger--Pennsylvanian smith--Hamilton--Wild - Duck-shooting--An Indian Hunter--Night in the Woods--A Yankee - Cattle-dealer--Buffalo Politicians.....31--60 - - - CHAPTER III. - - OHIO--INDIANA--ILLINOIS--MISSOURI. - - Wet and Weary--Out in the Woods--The Forest Mill--A Raccoon--A - Pleasant Travelling Companion--My Israelite Fellow-lodgers--Fording - the Wabash--A Wet Road--Buck-shooting--Illinois and its Climate--I set - off for New Orleans--Lead Mines in Missouri.....61--82 - - - CHAPTER IV. - - ARKANSAS, AND “DOWN RIVER” TO NEW ORLEANS. - - The Eagle--An Old Settler--My unsuccessful Hunting Dog--The Polish - Refugee’s Habitation--An Unnecessary Circuit--Indian Tribe--Little - Rock in Arkansas--My Engagement on board the “Fox”--Quarrel with the - Captain--An uncomfortable Night--Treatment of Slaves--A Woodland - Supper--A Panther--Bear-shooting--Life among the Indians--An Indian - Shooting Party--Wolf Traps--Narrow Escape for my Canoe--By Steamer to - New Orleans.....83--116 - - - CHAPTER V. - - CINCINNATI--A FARMER’S LIFE IN THE WOODS. - - A Runaway Couple--Cincinnati and its Religious Sects--The Girl - “possessed with a Devil”--I start afresh for the Woods--Bad Sport and - bad Weather--Crawfish--Blackfish Lake--A Picnic in the Woods--Mule - Drivers from Texas--Strong’s Plantation--A Swimming-race with the - dogs--Saint Woodland’s Farm--Bee-hunting--Wild Honey--Searching - for Horses--Dancing for a Dinner--Backwoods Building--Ague--My - Methodist Friend--Duck-shooting--Snakes in the Swamps--Our Farming - Arrangements.....117--149 - - - CHAPTER VI. - - A FARMER’S LIFE IN THE WOODS (_continued_). - - A Wolf--We shift our Quarters--False Alarm--Squirrel for - Breakfast--Primitive Mode of Winnowing Corn--“Oiltrove Bottom”--Pawpaw - Trees--“Not at home”--Hard Fare--A Panther--Visit to Hilger--A Great - Political Discussion--Clearing Land for Fields--Ague--Prompt Burial - in the Swamps--A Backwoods Family--Swindlers in Arkansas--White River - and its Neighborhood--Magnus, the Great Buffalo Hunter--A Patient - with the Ague--Swamps--Hunting with an unloaded Gun--Death of the - Bear.....150--181 - - - CHAPTER VII. - - WOODLAND SPORTS--CANE-BRAKES--MY EXAMINATION BY THE SCHOOL COMMISSION. - - Turkey-shooting with Dogs--Forest Travel--Scarcity of - Provisions--Overcup Oak--Buck-hunting--Buffalo-hunting--Return - to the Haunts of Men--Bear-hunting with dogs--The Falling - Tree--“Shocking bad Dreams”--Ladies in the Forest--Unemployed Hands - in Cincinnati--Card-playing in the Cane-brake--German Settlers down - South--The Great School Examination--Speculation in Canes.....182-209 - - - CHAPTER VIII. - - FARMING AT FOURCHE LE FAVE--A BACKWOODS “FROLIC”--RESIDENCE AT - KELFER’S FARM--SCHOOLS--HUNTING EXCURSION. - - Partnership with Rutkin--Removing Goods by Canoe--Scalding Pigs - “Arkansas Fashion”--Shooting Deer by Night--Disagreement with - Rutkin--A Backwoods “Frolic”--Relays of Fiddlers--Chasing a Wolf - with a Canoe--Another Shooting Excursion--The Sessions in the - Backwoods--An inconvenient Court-house--Departure from Kelfer’s - Farm--Road-making in the Backwoods--Visit to Bahrens--Habitual - Reserve of the Americans--Mechanical Ingenuity of Backwoodsmen--An - Indian Adventure--Raccoon-shooting--Bee-hunting in the - Backwoods--Duck-shooting--Curly the Settler--A Prize--Curly’s - Mishap--An Unpleasant Nocturnal Visitor--Shooting a Panther--Return to - Slowtrap’s.....210--257 - - - CHAPTER IX. - - HUNTING ANECDOTES AND EXPERIENCES--CHRISTMAS--CONWELL AND HIS - REMINISCENCES. - - Surprised by a Panther--A New Hunting Excursion--The - Fox--“Stole Away”--The Two old Cattle-dealers--Bear-hunting - Extraordinary--Deer-stalking by Night--Duck-shooting--Thunderstorms - in Arkansas--Our Nocturnal Encampment--Indian Migration--A - Bootless Chase--Lost in the Forest--Mr. Davis’s Farm--Conwell and - his Family--Slowtrap’s Adventure with the Cow--Terrace-hills--A - Prize--A Sumptuous Breakfast--A Two-year-old Bruin--A - Comfortable Evening--Indian Stratagem--Simplicity of the - Backwoodsmen--Bivouac--Story of the Moccasins--Almost surprised by - a Panther--A Novel Sleeping-room--Struggle with a Buck--Story of a - Buffalo Hunt--Books in Wet Weather--Manna in the Desert--Marauding - Wolves--Bruin in his Nest--Honey-laden Home.....258--311 - - - CHAPTER X. - - A PERILOUS BEAR-HUNT--A DEBATING SOCIETY--PANTHER HUNT--DISASTROUS - EVENTS--DEATH OF ERSKINE--DEPARTURE. - - Bears in their Winter Quarters--Bruin’s Cave--Our Adventure in the - Cave--Attack and Retreat--Pursued by a Wounded Bear--Victory at - last--Another Bruin in his Lair--Backwoods Debating Society--Knotty - Points of Debate--A Panther in a Cave--Watchfire and Wounds--Off - again after Game--Hunting with the Indians--Skeletons--Narrow - Quarters--Wachiga--Our Fatal Temerity--Erskine’s Death--A - Terrible Night--A Primitive Operation--I decline taking a Farm--A - Rencontre.....312--349 - - - CHAPTER XI. - - A FATAL BRAWL--RETURN TO LITTLE ROCK--SUMMARY JUSTICE--DOWN SOUTH. - - Whiskey and Bloodshed--Wounded and Alone--A Prize--Return to - Slowtrap’s--Little Rock--Deer-shooting at the “Salt Lick”--Logwood - Trees in Arkansas--Summary Judicial Proceedings--Calls for - attracting Deer--Indian Method of Dressing Skins--A Matrimonial - Difficulty--Buck-shooting--Letters at Little Rock--Canoe Voyage down - the Arkansas--Celebration of the 4th of July.....350--373 - - - CHAPTER XII. - - LOUISIANA--NEW ORLEANS, AND HOME. - - Mosquitoes--Meeting with Kean--The Hotel at Point Coupée--Slaves and - their Condition--Snipe-shooting--Vegetation of Louisiana--Shooting - Alligators by Torchlight--Their Antipathy to Dogs and Negroes--New - Orleans--The “Olbers” for Bremen--Mouth of the Mississippi--The - Gulf of Mexico--Fever--The Lübecker and his Wife--The - Channel--Quarantine.....374--396 - - - - - WILD SPORTS - - AND - - ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST. - - - - -CHAPTER I. - -FROM BREMEN TO NEW YORK. - - A Bremen lighter, and its capacity for holding passengers--An - unexpected meeting--Scene on board the lighter--The captain--First - night on board--A parting dance on shore--Our new passengers and - their mishaps--The “Constitution”--Steerage arrangements--Sleeping - berths--Scenes between decks--Departure--Sea-sickness--Our Jewish - passengers--The French and English Coasts--The Atlantic--Jelly-fish - and “Portuguese men-of-war”--Small-pox on - board--Dancing--Phosphorescence of the sea--Fricandeau-days--Stormy - weather--Meeting of ships at sea--The 4th of July and its - festivities--The shark and pilot-fish--Projects to pass the - time--“Land ho!”--Arrival, harbor, quarantine, and examination of - luggage--We take leave of the “Constitution.” - - -“Does the boat start at nine _exactly_?” “Yes, do not be later.” Such -was the notice I received as I spoke with the master of the lighter, -which in the spring of 1837 was to take me with bag and baggage on board -the “Constitution,” bound to New York, then lying in Bremen Roads, about -forty miles from the town, and only waiting for the two lighters, which -were to take on board the steerage passengers with their effects. - -I was true to my appointment at nine o’clock, but soon found that there -was no necessity to have hurried myself, as no preparations had been -made for starting; I took advantage of the time to look over all my -effects, to see if I had everything I thought necessary, and to procure -any thing that was wanting: in a large chest, that could easily be got -at, I had packed some bottles of red wine, a keg of sardines, another of -herrings, a Westphalian ham (oh, that there had been six!), some lemons, -a little rum, pepper, sugar, some tin vessels for the table and to keep -food in, knives, forks, and spoons. I found all right, and then lounged -along the banks of the Weser, so as not to lose the boat. I was -astonished at the number of passengers that arrived; and when I saw the -crowd of people to be stowed in the miserably small boat, it appeared to -me impossible that she could hold so many. While I was leaning against -the corner of a house and looking on, a young man approached, wrapped in -a blue cloak, with a foraging cap, spectacles, a long pipe in one hand, -and a knapsack in the other; he looked at me steadfastly for a moment, -and then accosted me with the intimate “Du” (Thou). His features were -familiar to me, but I did not remember him till he mentioned his name; -he was H., a former school-fellow, who was about to embark in the same -ship. The sight of him first recalled to mind, since I had taken leave -of all who were near and dear to me, that I was not quite alone in the -world, and that there was still some one who would interest himself for -me; of course we were now inseparable. - -We lounged about together for some time in the town, and on returning to -the boat found for certain that it would not start till the following -morning. Most of the passengers went on shore in the evening. H. and I -remained on board with our baggage. Next morning we cast off from the -shore and made sail with the ebb; the wind was unfavorable. No one who -has not made such a passage, in a similar boat, with a like number of -passengers, can imagine the scene. It is necessary to give a short -description of it, as these boats are still in use, and may yet carry -thousands of emigrants from their native land. The lighter was -cutter-rigged, about forty-five feet long, and some fifteen broad, with -a little hole in the after part called a cabin, with two sleeping places -on one side and some rows of shelves on the other; it was about large -enough to contain six people closely packed. Imagine sixty passengers in -the other part of the boat! (for the cabin was only for the master, or -captain, as he liked to be called). Sixty live passengers, with their -chests, trunks, hat and other boxes, handkerchiefs of provisions, -cloaks, mattresses, coverlets, &c. &c.; and not young men only, but old -and young women, old men and boys, children and old maids, sitting, -lying, standing, and leaning about. If any one had told me beforehand -that such a number of people could have been packed in such a space, I -would not have believed him. - -When all had settled themselves, and I was firmly persuaded that it was -quite impossible to find room for one more, without hanging him up under -the deck, a pair of legs poked themselves down the hatchway; over them -was a blue jacket, topped by the rubicund visage of our faithful -captain. After trying for some time with his feet to find a solid -foundation to stand on, he let go his hands, and lighted on the corns -of a lanky sailor, who had squeezed himself in between two chests, and -had fallen asleep standing; the pain made him draw up his long legs, and -he was so disconcerted, that, still half asleep, he courteously begged -pardon of the captain, or Tarpaulin, as we called him. - -The captain now began to look about him, stepping over two and sometimes -three persons at a time. But what was his motive for taking all this -trouble? Merely to look at the pretty faces of the female passengers, -and to try to make himself agreeable to them--but time and place, wind -and weather were against him; he only received snappish words from some, -and derision from others; finding that nothing was to be gained from the -fair sex, he turned to the other, and began to ogle various -attractive-looking bottles, which were less coy towards him, for here -and there some of them were uncorked and their contents earnestly -inquired into. - -At last he went on deck, and I followed, not without difficulty, to get -at least a breath of fresh air; the weather was bad, the sky cloudy, -with a sharp cutting wind, and occasionally rain: the dull -leather-colored banks of the Weser filled me with melancholy. - -H. had followed me; so we lit a couple of cigars, and talked over old -stories. We anchored at dark, as the master was afraid of running -aground--the vessel swung round, the sails were lowered, and all was -quiet for the night. As the dew fell heavy and cold, we once more -descended through the dark abyss of the hatchway. Not a light was -burning, and all lay close packed together; how I managed to get through -the mass is still a mystery, but I remember that I passed the night, -sitting on the corner of a chest, leaning my head upon another with an -enormous padlock, against which I constantly knocked. - -What a scene in the morning!--I was as hungry as a wolf--and no wonder, -for I had eaten nothing since the previous morning; I got on deck, -washed my face and hands in a bucket of Weser water, and greedily -devoured a morsel of bread and cheese which I had in my pocket. The -weather had improved, the boat dropped slowly down with the tide. About -eight o’clock we met a small fishing boat, from which I bought some -capital shell-fish; these our captain ordered to be cooked by his -ministering spirit, and of course came in for his share. When the flood -made, we anchored again; H. and I with the only sailor went on shore to -recruit our store of provisions, as our passage seemed likely to be a -long one. - -In the afternoon we dropped down to a village called, I believe, Bracke, -where some merry music struck our ears. Our Tarpaulin would not have -passed it had the whole admiralty of Bremen been standing sentry on the -shore; although the wind was fair, and the ebb still running, the anchor -was dropped, the little boat hauled up, and all the younger members, -babies excepted, landed on the beach. - -Dancing was carried on with vigor for a couple of hours, but I took no -part in it; I was in no humor for dancing. I was nevertheless amused; -the emigrants, in the costume of their different states, even in the -moment of bidding farewell to their native land, jumped and bounded to -the sound of a couple of fiddles and a horn, without a care for the -future. As it began to grow late, the not very tender lighterman’s -conscience of our captain began to reproach him. The wind was fair, and -he knew that the ship was only waiting for him; so he collected his -cargo, and we left the merry sounds behind us. We had had some fun at -any rate, and that made the time seem shorter. - -At Vegesack, another village on the Weser, we received three more -passengers, also bound for our ship--a man of about five or six and -forty, his wife, some seven or eight years younger, and their hopeful -son, of about eighteen. - -As it was a downright impossibility to squeeze in three more passengers -amongst us, Tarpaulin gave them up his cabin, as he called it. It cost -no little trouble to get the two rather helpless old folks stowed below. -William, for that was hopeful’s name, managed it quicker, for his foot -slipped, and down he went, like a flash of lightning, between his -astonished parents, crushing his mother’s bonnet in his descent. Towards -evening our captain wanted some tar. It was stowed under a scuttle in -the floor of the cabin. The sailor, who had taken rather too much on -board at Bracke, and thereupon had totally forgotten the principles of -equilibrium, tumbled to the foot of the cabin ladder, and made the trio -understand that it was necessary to open the little hole in the floor, -and that therefore they must press themselves as close as possible -against the ship’s sides. This was easier said than done, because a -narrow seat ran along the sides. The scuttle was at last opened, the -iron pot lifted out, and set with its sharp edge on William’s toes, -causing him to draw back his foot and strike his heel forcibly against -the ship’s side. But his cup of sorrow was not exhausted yet. With -sublime patience he awaited the retreat of the sailor, who, with -unsteady hands, lifted the bucket towards the captain, who had stretched -out his hands to take it; but “there’s many a slip ’twixt the cup and -the lip.” The bucket turned over. William, poor innocent William, -received the whole of the contents, and the captain got nothing more -than his favorite perfume. He swore like a heathen. And what said -William, as he stood there like butter in the sun? If the saying is -true--“well greased goes easy,” it ought to have gone easy with him. - -One more night had we to pass in this wretched boat. It would fill -volumes to relate all the occurrences, serious and comic. In the morning -we saw the object of our hopes--the barque “Constitution”--lying at -anchor, with flags flying. We were soon alongside and on board. The -confusion of this moment was indescribable. The second lighter had -arrived two days before us with the other passengers, who had secured -the most convenient bed-places, and arranged their packages to the best -advantage; no trifling matter in so small a space. The steerage was -about thirty-three feet long by twenty-seven wide, and eight high, with -posts, or stanchions, in the middle, to support the upper deck, to which -the chests, &c., were lashed. Imagine on each side two rows of -bed-places, one over the other, about six feet square, each wide enough, -or rather not wide enough, to contain five people. The chests, cases, -packages of all sorts with clothes and provisions, were stowed in the -intermediate spaces, and lashed to the posts, to keep them from -tumbling about with the motion of the ship, leaving a space on each side -of about twenty-two feet long, and from twelve to fourteen inches wide, -for 118 passengers. At first I could not believe that we were so many, -but by degrees became convinced of it. After for a short time viewing -the scene with its forms climbing and crawling about through the gloom, -I imagined to myself the motion of the ship, the lashings giving way, -the chests and boxes flying from side to side, and the advent of -sea-sickness, which the number of tin basins kept in readiness seemed -mournfully to forebode;--I hastily mounted to the deck, which seemed -spacious and well arranged. - -Although lying at anchor, the “Constitution” appeared to one so -uninitiated as myself to roll considerably. Before dark, I crept below -again to take another look at my sleeping-place. There were five of us, -whom fate and our own volition had consigned to a space six feet square, -with the audacious idea of resigning ourselves to the arms of Morpheus; -but we were so squeezed together that the god could not have clasped an -individual; so he must either take all five at once, or leave us to our -fate. Our mattresses were spread (each had a mattress and coverlet), and -we crept in one after the other. When four had taken their places, two -of them being men of colossal bulk, the space was filled, and the -question arose--What was to become of the fifth? Lie across? That would -have been too uncomfortable for those below. Under our heads? That would -not have been agreeable for H., who was the fifth man; besides he was -so scraggy and bony, that I doubt if our heads would not have had the -worst of it. At last we all agreed to lie on our sides, and H. squeezed -in. Turning round was a thing not to be thought of; and thus we passed -our first night in our long-desired ship. - -Next morning, when my left side awoke (my right lying fast asleep for -some time longer), all my limbs seemed bruised and broken; I almost felt -homesick. I crept out as well as I could, and went on deck to get a -wash, a bucket serving me for a basin. The wind blew cold and -comfortless through the rigging. All was soon in motion below, and as I -looked down the hatchway, I was forcibly reminded of Schiller’s -“Diver,”[A] - - “Wie’s von Salamandern, Molchen, und Drachen - Sich regt in dem furchtbaren Höllenrachen.”[A] - - [A] - - Salamanders, and monsters, and dragons did go - Through the fearful jaws of the hell below. - - -Laughter, singing, roaring, cursing, the screams of children, crying, -and praying, resounded in a confused din up the hatchway. Presently, one -sleepy face after another crept up the ladder, with blinking eyes, -accustomed to the nether darkness, and looked towards the morning sun -just breaking through a bank of thin gray clouds. In about an hour’s -time, a talismanic word, pronounced in a loud voice in the forepart -of the ship, put life into the crew, who had been on board some days: -we soon found that this mysterious word meant, “breakfast”--“dinner”--“supper.” -We received coffee, biscuit, and brown bread, but every one had to find -his own can, and to fetch his portion himself. - -I had now time to notice my bed-fellows: H., I have already described; -the other three were a joiner, a doctor, and an apothecary, the two -latter big enough to fill up one sleeping-place to themselves. As far as -I could judge on such short acquaintance, they seemed to promise -agreeable society. - -Boundless disorder still reigned around. No one seemed to know where he -ought to be; everybody was asking for a chest, a box, a trunk: the fair -sex, of whom we had about twenty-five, had made no arrangements among -themselves, so that, instead of only eight, sixteen were speaking at the -same time. I sincerely pitied some among them, who seemed to have been -in better circumstances, but who, probably through insufficiency of -means, were obliged to choose the cheaper passage in the steerage, and -to forego all the comforts to which they had been accustomed from -childhood. A single man can rough it; indeed, it is highly interesting -to take part in all this life and bustle, and I would not on any account -have taken my passage in the cabin; but for a woman, it is quite another -thing; for what may serve as a joke and subject of conversation to a -man, alarms and hurts the feelings of a woman: it was, however, very -different with some Oldenburg lassies. They seemed as much at home as in -their ferry-boats; the greater the uproar and disorder, the more did -they laugh and enjoy it. The race of Israel had about sixty -representatives on board, among them some pretty Jewesses; had they all -been dirty peddlers, I must have jumped overboard. - -After two days, the pilot came on board, the anchor was weighed, all was -life and mirth. None would remain below, and the deck was crowded; the -wind blew fair and we were soon in the North Sea. The strip of land -became smaller and smaller; the pilot left us; his boat lessened and -lessened; then there was only a thin, blue line with one dark point, the -steeple of Wangerode; this became more misty and indistinct; the last -trace of home disappeared in the blue distance. There, behind those thin -clouds that seemed to lie on the water, lived all those who were near -and dear to me in this world,--and yet I had no tears, for their source -seemed dried up. I stood for a long, long time scanning, with dry eyes, -that part of the heavens. I went early to bed to indulge my thoughts. I -had hardly turned in, when my comrades came, and the squeeze began -again. All was tolerably quiet in the steerage, most of the party being, -probably, affected by the disappearance of their mother country. - -Running with a fair wind, the ship soon became uneasy; I awoke in the -night with a very disagreeable sensation, to find that my head lay much -lower than my heels. Our berth was on the starboard or right side of the -ship, looking towards the head, and our feet were towards the ship’s -side, on account of the fresh wind; in the night the wind changed, and -the ship laid over on the port side; between laughing and swearing, and -not without considerable difficulty, we changed our position. - -The next morning’s sun shone on many a pale and long face; the sea was -rough, the ship rolled and pitched fearfully, the effect was awful to -look upon. I have already stated that we had a number of Jews on board, -with few exceptions, from the lowest class; they were allowed by their -rabbins, at least so they avowed, to eat bacon during the voyage, and -most of them had so far availed themselves of the privilege, as, if not -to overload the stomach, at least to take in a very plentiful supply of -the beautiful sweet bacon that was served out to us. Punishment trod on -the heels of crime; there was not a corner of the ship unoccupied by a -sick Israelite with a tin basin, or one despairingly leaning over the -side and squaring accounts with Neptune. - -H., the doctor, and myself were quite well, and not a little did we quiz -the poor wretches, who were already sufficiently tormented. The -following day it rained hard; the confined space, with all these -sufferers, was almost insupportable--yet it was very disagreeable to get -wet through on deck--I was wretched. - -About noon on Sunday, some groups formed here and there; people began to -feel that it was a misery not to associate,--yet a sudden qualm would -often end a conversation begun in mirth. Some of the most resolute began -to creep on deck again, but often had to pay dearly for their temerity, -when a heavy sea broke over the ship, and wet to the skin all within its -course. I never before knew the real advantage of a cloak. In the -evening it cleared up, and I made my way forward amongst the crew to -listen to their songs and stories. - -On the following day the sea was heavier, and sickness at its height. I -was quite disgusted, and climbed up the rigging to the top to get rid of -it, and remained there till the cook’s magic word announced something -warm for the inner man, though very few of the passengers responded to -the call. - -I may as well take this opportunity to say something about the cooking -and manner of living. The kitchen is a small wooden house, well secured -by clamps to the deck, as a safeguard against the force of the seas that -break over the ship. It was divided into two parts; one for the cabin -passengers, the other for the steerage passengers and crew. The -provisions were good and plentiful. Coffee was served out every morning, -though, to be sure, one had to drink a great deal of water to get at the -coffee; but I had always been used to strong coffee, and future -experience in the back woods taught me that, when drunk scalding hot, it -requires a good palate to distinguish between strong and weak coffee. - -It was evening when we approached the French coast, which first appeared -as a bluish line, that grew larger and larger: before dark, we came near -enough to Calais to distinguish the steeple and houses. Looking over -towards England, we could see nothing beyond the two lights near Dover. -On the following morning, we were nearer to the coast of England, whose -majestic chalky cliffs were tinged rose-color by the morning sun. In the -evening we passed the Isle of Wight, and the wind changing, we did not -clear the Channel till the 27th May. - -We were now on the broad ocean; a number of fishing-boats enlivened the -prospect with their many-colored sails, sometimes white, sometimes -yellow, red, and even black. The sea was green, and the color especially -beautiful under the bows and stern; the picture was further animated by -a number of porpoises and albicores leaping from wave to wave. I saw -several strange substances floating on the sea, which I could not -observe more closely, for want of a net to catch them: I decided on -making one. - -All went well for several days; the weather improved, sea-sickness -disappeared, and the fair sex began to show themselves on deck. I had -made a net, fastened it to a staff, and kept it in readiness for any -thing remarkable floating past; indeed, for me, every thing that floated -by was remarkable, or at least worth examination. I caught a number of -jelly-like creatures, which had the power of rising or sinking in the -water, and also that of motion; one kind being about five or six inches -long, and one and a half or two broad, hollow, and provided with a sort -of stomach marked by a dark spot, the only compact part of the animal. -If left on a dry board for a couple of hours, it resolved itself into -water, excepting the stomach and a slimy opaque mass with a very thin -fine skin. Sometimes we saw numbers of them linked together, and always -with the dark spot on one side. Some snails were caught resembling land -snails: their shells contained a blue liquid, which seemed adapted to -give a beautiful dye. I wrote a few lines with this dye to see how the -color lasted, and found that it did not change in the least. The most -beautiful of all this species is unquestionably the “Nautilus,” or, as -the English call it, “Portuguese man-of-war.” It can raise itself about -three inches above the surface, and steer its own course, but disappears -in a storm; numerous feelers of two, three, and four feet, serve to -provide nourishment. I caught one in my net, and happening to touch it -with the back of my hand, it made it smart as if stung by a nettle. At -night they give out a phosphoric light. - -Now we were flying along with a fair wind and fine weather to our new -home; the ocean had that deep transparent blue which almost enticed one -to leap into it, to sleep in peace within its depths. My contemplations -were interrupted by a sight that made the peaceful sleep rather -doubtful--the dorsal fin of a shark peering above the surface as the -ship glided by. The idea of coming between the triple row of teeth of -such a monster was any thing but poetical. My attention was soon drawn -to another object, to which we came nearer and nearer, lying dark on the -water: at first I thought it must be a rock, and asked the mate, but he -said there was no rock in that direction, and that it must be something -floating--and so it was; as we passed it, it turned out to be a wreck. -Nothing is more adapted to damp the spirits on board a ship than the -sudden appearance of such a “memento mori,” to remind one of that -journey which awaits us all, in which a wreck may be our starting-point, -and a shark the first station. - -On the 30th the wind was unfavorable, with a hollow sea; those good -people who had nothing to do, became, as usual, sea-sick; the others -managed better. Suddenly our messmate the doctor came with a pale and -alarmed countenance, to tell us that the smallpox had broken out on -board; a little girl had it very violently, and of a bad kind. The -carpenter had hastily to fit up a place used as a store-room for ropes; -she was removed thither, away from the other passengers, and the general -apprehension was somewhat allayed. - -While standing quietly on deck, I heard a tremendous uproar in the -steerage; men swearing, women screaming, children crying, made a chorus -enough to split one’s ears. I jumped down for fear of missing some fun, -and was greeted by the most comical sight: every one had taken refuge on -the highest sleeping places, on the tops of chests, boxes, or any other -elevations, to be clear of the floor, which was taken possession of by a -little white spaniel, which snarled, and snapped, and foamed at the -mouth. All cried out as I came down the ladder, “A mad dog! a mad dog!” -The poor beast seemed to me more sick than mad; it ran forward a couple -of paces, and got jammed between two chests, and before it could free -itself I had seized it by the back of the neck, while it snapped and -struggled in vain. I shall long remember the shrieks of the women, who -had mounted into the sleeping places, as I raised the dog, and thereby -brought it nearer to them than they thought consistent with their -safety. I kept fast hold of the poor thing, carried him up the ladder, -and threw him overboard. It was the only dog on board, and belonged to -poor William, who came in for the shower-bath of tar on board the -lighter. He took the affair very coolly, and said, “he was glad the -beast was gone, as he was always putting his paws into his food.” He and -his father had remained a long time on deck, and at last, when they had -descended, they did not meet with a very friendly reception from the old -lady, who was lying sick in her bed-place. “William--you--and--your--father- --are--very--stupid--to--leave--me--a--poor--sick--woman--all--a--lone- --while--you--are--a--mu--sing--your--selves--on--deck.” -William defended himself earnestly in Low Dutch, and thoughtlessly -seating himself on his mother’s cap-box, the lid gave way under his -weight; his ears were well boxed in consequence. - -June 4th.--A calm, with the sea as smooth as a mirror, except -occasionally when a long swell disturbed the surface; the ship was -motionless. I felt a great inclination to bathe, but the captain had -forbidden it, on account of the sharks. Early in the morning, however, -H. and I sprang overboard before he was up, and felt as light as -feathers in the warm sea; I was much more fatigued than ever I had been -in river bathing, and I had swallowed no slight quantity of salt water. - -I went to sleep after dinner, and as I came on deck again about two -o’clock, I found dancing going on. The ship was not motionless, though -without headway; the swell made her roll heavily at times, and -occasionally a party of dancers, five or six couple, would be carried -from one side to the other, and thereafter, for a moment attempting to -maintain the perpendicular, yield at last to the laws of gravity, and -fall together in a heap. Towards dark, dancing ceased; a light breeze -sprang up at sunset, driving us gently before it, the sea looking still -more beautiful with its little light foam-crested waves. At night it -appeared to be sown with myriads of stars and sparks, particularly where -the ship dashed through the waters, throwing off the spray: it shone as -if a fire was under the water--every wave that broke against the bows, -gave light enough to exhibit the letters in a book. Although it was -against rules for steerage passengers to pass abaft the capstan, our -kind-hearted captain was not very strict in enforcing this order, and -for hours together I have watched the sparkling foam under the stern. -Once while so occupied I was startled by a rushing, snorting noise, and -looking up, saw the dark form of a grampus from about eighteen to twenty -feet in length, rushing through the flashing waters as if swimming in -liquid fire; he disappeared close under the stern. - -On the following day we fell in with another ship: on our hoisting our -Bremen colors, she showed an American ensign; we passed about fifty -yards from her. The captains exchanged their latitude and longitude, and -gave the name of the ports they came from and were bound to: her -destination was Oporto. A singular feeling is awakened by thus meeting -another ship on the immense ocean; to see another little world appear, -pass within hail, then diminish to a white point, and disappear, leaving -the poor emigrant more deserted than before on the waste of waters. - -On the 7th June, we were running eleven knots an hour; there was not -much sea, so that very few were sea-sick, and most had appeared on deck -and collected into picturesque groups,--here a couple playing cards, -there one with a prayer-book, a couple of girls knitting and reading -together, and some with wrinkled brows, strange contortions of the -mouth, and uncouth sounds, industriously studying, and endeavoring to -pronounce, English. These quiet pleasant days were named by us fine -_fricandeau_ days, for the following reason. We could not eat all the -salt meat and bacon that was served out, so we mixed the remains, after -mincing it small, with bread crumbs and yolks of eggs, kneaded it -together, and fried it in butter; hence the name, for in bad weather we -could do nothing of the sort. - -With so much fine weather I began to fear that we should miss seeing a -storm, and so lose the real delight of a sea voyage; but on the 16th it -began to blow, the sea got heavier and heavier, the faces longer and -longer--and by midnight old Boreas was in full bluster, the ship dashing -nobly through the brilliantly illuminated sea. I was delighted with the -war of the elements, and leaning over the side, watched for hours the -raging storm and restless waves. I did not go to bed till morning, when -I took my mattress out of the berth, and laid it on the deck, as it was -impossible for five to sleep below. - -The next day’s sun lighted up a wild but glorious scene; immense dark -blue waves, with green ridges crested with foam, for a moment “towering -in pride of place,” then sinking to make room for others; a shoal of -large porpoises were leaping joyfully among the boisterous waves. -Sailors say that they can tell, by the course of these fish, the quarter -that the wind will blow from, only they are not agreed whether they go -against the wind or run before it;--merely a difference of diametrically -opposite directions. The gale was now so heavy that we were obliged to -lie to, with the helm lashed a-lee. In the midst of it we saw a ship -running before the wind; with very little sail: she was frequently -hidden by the intervening waves, shot quickly past, and was soon out of -sight. - -On the 19th, the weather moderated in the morning, but the gale came on -again with greater force towards the evening. The scene in the steerage -was piteous in the extreme; sea-sickness at its height.--H. and I -attempted to joke with some, who were seated on the deck, deadly pale, -with tin basins between their knees, patiently awaiting the dreaded -paroxysms. We put a slice of nice fat bacon into a plate, covered it -over, then went to the sufferers and asked them how they felt. Instead -of answering, they mournfully shook their heads. “Won’t you take -something?” asked H., with a kind voice; the very idea occasioned -disgust, and with wry faces they motioned us not to speak of it; not yet -satisfied, I uncovered the plate, and H., holding up the slice before -them, asked in the most amiable, sympathizing voice, “Perhaps you could -eat a little bit of bacon?” This was like a watchword; it worked like -magic, and we were glad to fly on deck, almost alarmed at the success of -our plans. - -At noon pease-soup was served out; I had taken a basinful down below, a -proceeding which required no little skill, and leaning against the -sleeping-place had almost finished it, when H. came cursing and swearing -down the ladder, and standing at the foot of it, showed us his coat, -telling us, fiery with rage, that one of the Oldenburghers had spilt all -his pease-soup over him. At this moment a tin dishful of the same came -flying down the hatchway, and emptied itself so completely over -ill-fated H. that his eyes were bunged up; nor was this all--the soup -was only the prologue to the play, for who should follow his soup, -head-foremost, but poor William, _in propriâ personâ_, who, but for -alighting on H.’s shoulders must have broken his neck. Both fell -together in the mess. It would be a vain attempt to describe H.’s rage; -had we not sprung to the rescue, poor William would have been strangled. -When the gale moderated, more sail was made, but the sea ran high, and -through the wind being north-west, we could not lay our course; still -way was made, and that was a comfort. - -In the afternoon we saw another ship, and under Bremen colors. The -captains exchanged information through the speaking-trumpets; we -hastened towards the land of the stranger, while she was in full sail -towards home; with mournful thoughts, I watched the snowy sails, growing -less and less, until all traces of them were lost in the distant -horizon. - -Time began to hang heavy on our hands, our wished-for port still -distant, and the wind unfavorable; we approached the banks of -Newfoundland, whose southern points we were rounding under a thick fog. -Towards evening another ship was seen; then the fog came on thicker, so -that the bell was frequently struck, or a horn sounded, to prevent our -running foul of other vessels. Our captain was also anxious on account -of icebergs, which the other ship had spoken of, and the thermometer was -often dipped overboard, to try the temperature of the sea, as it falls -considerably on the approach of icebergs. - -The fog lay thick and damp, and the north-west wind blew very cold, so -that our cloaks came again into request. The smallpox did not seem -inclined to leave us, as one of the crew was now attacked, and confined -to the sick cabin. It was as cold as it is in Germany in December, and -if three fourths of the passengers had not been driven on deck by the -fumes of sulphur kindled in the steerage, they would not have ventured -out of the warm but foul air of their sleeping-places. It is surprising -that we had not more sickness on board, for pure air is one of the main -sources of health, and this was much wanted between decks. - -At night the wind changed in our favor, and it began to rain. I had -placed my mattress near the hatchway, and was wet through before I -awoke. - -The 4th of July approached,--the liberation-day of the Americans. The -captain said he should make it a holiday, and give us some punch, and we -decided on making preparations for it; a young man named Zellner, who -had already been in America, sketched the plan. First a transparency was -painted, with the American arms, the stripes and stars, and rising -eagle, with, as a motto, the names of the four heroes of the revolution, -Washington, La Fayette, Franklin, Kosciusko. It happened that one of the -passengers had some rockets and other fireworks, which he produced for -the occasion. At twelve at night, between the 3rd and 4th July, the -transparency was illuminated, and a song composed for the nonce, sung to -the tune of “God save the King.” The fireworks were let off, and the -rockets fired from our fowling-pieces. The lights were reflected from -the calm water. The captain now invited our party, and some other of the -steerage passengers into the cabin, where punch was handed round, while -the mate served it out on deck to the crew and the rest of the -passengers, pressing it particularly on the ladies. The consequences -soon became manifest. We had sat for about half an hour in the cabin, -laughing and drinking; but I took the precaution of drinking only one -glass, the punch appearing very strong, and much too sweet for my taste. -Observing that the eyes of the doctor and some others began to twinkle, -and that all were getting rather jovial, I rose, and the others -followed, and we came out on deck to see the fun, which every moment -became wilder and wilder. The sailors were aloft on the yards, letting -off squibs; the ship’s bell was being rung as if for fire, and rockets -and blank cartridges were fired out of every available musket. Zellner’s -double-barrelled gun burst, luckily without doing harm; but the -quarter-deck was the place where the “mirth and fun” was most “fast and -furious.” Ollman, an excellent violin player, had at first kindly -offered to play for the general amusement; but when the row got too wild -he withdrew, and another, burning with desire to show his skill, mounted -on the capstan, and began to wake such discordant sounds out of his -fiddle, that nothing but the general uproar prevented everybody’s teeth -from being set on edge; nevertheless they all waltzed away like mad, -caring nothing for the motion of the ship, which occasionally threw them -against the side in a confused heap. The man on the capstan continued -playing as if possessed, his face turned to the stem, and maintained his -place with great skill; and when the dancers were all thrown together by -the motion of the ship, he leant _towards_ them, playing away louder and -louder, but without showing the slightest change of countenance. -William’s mother threw her arms round my neck, begging me to dance with -her; next to her stood an old ropemaker, who had been ill all the -voyage; he tried to stand on one leg, whistling his own tune, while -turning on his axis; the lanky tailor lay on his back, with his arms -and legs working like a telegraph; in short, of the 118 passengers, not -more than six were quite sober. To have a better view I got into the -long boat, and laughed till the tears came; but as one can have too much -of a good thing, as I was tired with laughing, and although I had drank -very little, yet felt some bad effects, I crept down to my bed. As I -afterwards learnt, the mate, with the intention of making everybody -drunk, had heated the rum, put very little water, and plenty of sugar. I -was up again by daylight, and helped many of the victims to their beds. - -None of the passengers excepting Vogel and H. showed themselves for a -long time, and when they did at last, what pale, dull faces -appeared--what hollow, heavy eyes--what universal complaints of headache -and wretchedness! William especially went about very chapfallen; in the -midst of the fun he had sat himself down, and remained in the cook’s -steep-tub, where the salt meat for the morrow was soaking. - -We had a great deal of lightning in the evening, and about eleven -o’clock the heaviest thunderstorm I had ever experienced broke over us. -Flash after flash of lightning, peal on peal of thunder throughout the -whole vault of heaven. I went aloft to help the sailors; one moment it -was as light as day, with the black threatening sky above and beneath -us, like a dark stripe, the noble ship rushing through the glowing -foam-covered ocean. It was sublime--such moments are never to be -forgotten. The breeze lasted till the 10th July, when it again fell -calm. The ship lay almost motionless, and as all had recovered, alike -from sea-sickness and from the effects of the punch, the greater number -of the passengers showed themselves on deck forming various groups. -About noon a shark came towards us, the first we had seen for some days; -he swam quietly round the ship, and then disappeared, notwithstanding -all the temptations we offered in the shape of large pieces of meat, but -which concealed an enormous hook. He was accompanied by two pilot-fish, -whose attachment to the shark is wonderful. These pilot-fish are from -twelve to fourteen inches long, with stripes of blue and white of about -a finger’s breadth across their back. I shot one, but could not pick it -up. The shark is sometimes accompanied by five or six of these fish; he -never attacks them, and they probably point out his prey; for though we -saw nothing more of the shark, it was most likely under the ship, as the -pilot-fish played about under the bowsprit, a certain sign that he was -not far off. We also saw a sword-fish of twelve or fourteen feet long. - -Several stormy petrels, or, as the English call them, “Mother Carey’s -chickens,” had followed us nearly all the voyage, and were now swimming -or flying about the ship; I shot one, and caught it in my net as it -floated past. They are about the size of swallows, and fly something -like them; they are web-footed, dive well, and have a large horny hole -in the beak. - -The breeze sprang up again next day, but so light, that the ship seemed -to be asleep,--fancy her in a night-cap and dressing-gown. Our dear -companions became day by day more insupportable; the liveliest, who were -always on deck, began to quarrel among themselves; the others merely -vegetated; they remained day and night in their sleeping-places, -without even taking the trouble to wash themselves; perhaps they were -afraid of taking too much water out of the sea, as the ship was near -sand-banks. We tried all sorts of amusements, such as reasonable -grown-up men would not be suspected of patronizing. Amongst others, we -played at soldiers; working men, shopkeepers, apothecaries, Jews, -Christians, sailors, old and young, all took part in it, with sticks, -brooms, harpoons, fish-grains, hunting knives, wind instruments (the -ship’s horn for fog-signals), flags, &c., just like little boys. The -whole play was carried out--rebellion, desertion (one of the Jews was -the deserter), court-martial, execution, and tocsin: the tocsin bell was -a shirt stretched over a hoop, and beaten with a broomstick. The best of -all was, that the doctor turned up his nose at us, and talked about our -being childish! Wasn’t he hooted? - -July 18th.--Running merrily with a fair wind, our hearts swelling with -fresh hopes. We collected the Oldenburghers on deck to sing a song, the -chorus of which was, “Peasants ride in coaches in America.” I thought -the good people might be in error as to coaches, and that wheelbarrows -would be nearer the mark. But what should we be without hope? We were -near the land. At early dawn I sprang out of a hammock I had -manufactured, for I could not sleep in the narrow berth, and mounted -aloft. Placid, just crisped by a light south-east wind, lay the sea, -deep, deep beneath me, dandling the noble ship, playing with her, -yielding before her, and then following with a slight splash. I gained -the highest point, clasped the mast with my left arm, and delightedly -breathed the pure morning air. The horizon became lighter and lighter, -the view clearer and clearer--the mist vanished--a hollow sound like -distant thunder broke on the listening ear! It was surf,--there lay the -land, and plainer and plainer as the light increased appeared a blue -stripe above the dark waves of the horizon. “Land!” cried I from the -mast head, and “land!” “land!” resounded from one to another between -decks. As ants run out of their nest when it is disturbed, so rushed the -half-wakened passengers up the hatchway, hastened to the bows, and -opening their blinking eyes as wide as they could, repeated “land!” -although I am convinced that it was not possible to see it from the -deck, as the day did not get any clearer, and only the highest points -were visible. Our lanky friend the tailor came up among the rest, -holding a plate of butter in one hand, a ship’s biscuit in the other; as -he heard the word “land!” repeated, he set his provisions on one of the -hen-coops, and ran with the others to look at the land. William, who -probably thought that there would be plenty of time to contemplate it, -sat himself quietly down on the hen-coop, and of course on the butter, -which had become rather soft after a night spent between decks; there he -sat, kicking his heels against the rails, his hands comfortably stowed -in his pockets, and whistling to express his content. The tailor -returning, naturally anxious about his week’s allowance of butter, which -he, confiding in the general honesty, had, in a manner, left exposed in -the highway, stood immovable with astonishment, with eyes and mouth wide -open, looking at this picture of innocence and self-satisfaction sitting -in his butter. William, unconscious of evil, and amused at the tailor’s -astonishment, put on a broad grin, which stopped his whistling, but he -kept up the time with his heels. At last the astounded tailor found his -tongue, and calling out, “Oh the wretch!” he sprang on the unprepared -William, pulled him across his knee, and pointing out the butter to the -bystanders, exclaimed in a sorrowful voice, “There, there it is!” - -As we came nearer to the long-desired land, we could distinguish woods, -fields, houses, farms, and single trees; a beautiful sight, but not to -be enjoyed long, for the captain not liking to approach too close, stood -off again, and in the evening it was hardly visible. Early on the 19th -we made all sail; about eleven a small vessel stood towards us under -American colors: we hoisted ours, and the pilot came on board. Now all -was fresh life among the passengers. So near the land, fresh water was -served out, and there was washing and splashing and smartening up going -on in every corner. Here a young Jewess adorned herself with earrings -containing false stones, there a man hastily washed a shirt; on one side -women combing and brushing children, there others, their toilet ended, -strutting about in their best;--and there lay the poor ropemaker face -downwards, across the capstan; he had but one pair of trowsers, which -the kind tailor was busily mending. The pilot, a fine-looking man, as -all these American pilots are, and dressed in the newest fashion, soon -carried us into the entrance of New York harbor, near Staten Island. -Where shall I find a pen that can paint what we saw, or describe our -feelings? The sight of this noble land, robed in the most beautiful -green, with luxuriant fields, fine houses, and here and there remains -of the original forests, forts on each side protecting the entrance, the -bright blue heavens above, and rustling waves beneath, melted my heart, -and made me long to be alone. I ran aloft, and looked with enchanted, -and, why should I deny it, with moistened eyes, on the beautiful country -which seemed opening her arms to receive us--and the question rose -unavoidably: “Why is not that my home, and why must I leave all my heart -holds dear to purchase such a sight?” The sailors, who came running up -the rigging like cats, disturbed my meditations. The anchor was dropped, -and the sails furled. A boat under a yellow flag came off from Staten -Island, to inquire after our healths. Luckily all our sick had -recovered, and all the party looked in good condition; so that the good -doctor, in spite of a pair of hexagonal spectacles, could not find a -trace of the late sickness, and left the ship with the words “All’s -well.” In the evening, H., the doctor, and I plunged overboard to bathe. -We were not allowed to leave the ship till the morrow, when a schooner -came to take us all with bag and baggage to a large square block house, -about a hundred yards from the shore, to undergo a short quarantine, and -to show whether our luggage contained any thing liable to duty, or -requiring washing. The customs’ examination was not severe, and nobody -had to pay; the dirty clothes were more strictly examined, and large -buckets were brought, that those who had neglected to wash their clothes -on the passage might do so now. As we quitted the “Constitution,” where -we had passed sixty-four days of mingled joy and sorrow, taking leave of -her crew was, to me at least, like taking leave of old friends, and as -the boat shoved off we gave them a loud cheer, which was answered by -the crew in English fashion with three hurrahs, preceded by “hip, hip, -hip.” This was not very well taken by our Jewish passengers, who could -not find “hip, hip, hip” in their dictionaries, and one of them remarked -that “he did not see why they should so laugh at us.” - -[Illustration] - - - - -CHAPTER II. - -NEW YORK TO BUFFALO. - - Good advice to emigrants--Examination of the baggage--New - York--Schw--z’s boarding-house and its deficiencies--Aspect of the - city--Abundance of fruit--An Irishman’s funeral--Fire--Reports from - Illinois--The German reformed church--Extraordinary - scene--Soldiers--The Scotch and their national costume--Negroes--My - tobacco speculation--Unsuccessful shooting excursion--Departure for - Albany--Utica--An American breakfast--The canal-boat and its - arrangement--Collision--Crowded state of the boat, and consequent - discomfort--Lockport--Niagara--Hamilton--Visit to a - countryman--Excursion into the woods--Meeting with an Indian--Bear - hunt--Bivouac in the woods--Maize--Buffalo--The ‘William - Tell’--Village politicians. - - -Although this blockhouse was called the Quarantine building, the -quarantine was not very strict; several of us got a boat to take us on -shore, and for the first time we stepped on the soil of a new world--for -us a truly beautiful and noble world, but still a new, and therefore a -strange one. Singular feelings came over me as I wandered under strange -trees, among the pale Americans, and sought some quiet spot where I -could indulge my thoughts; they were mournful, though at the same time -full of hope and confidence. It was late when I returned to my -companions, whom I found assembled round some bread and cheese and beer, -and well satisfied with their reception in their new country. While -sitting enjoying God’s good gifts, which we had been so long deprived -of, a stranger came into our room, but as he addressed us in German, we -were soon on a footing of old acquaintance; he was a baker, who had been -about thirty years in America, and had realized a handsome fortune; he -came with the praiseworthy intention of giving us good advice. The good -man might have saved his trouble, for, wise in our own conceits, like -all new comers, we knew better than he did. He had lived principally in -Pennsylvania, and, like all the people of that State, he addressed each -as “Thou.” He cautioned us against the Americans, telling us that they -would cheat us whenever they could; “but,” said he, “if you must trust -to any one, trust an American sooner than a German. It is a disgrace to -the Germans, but it is too true: beware of them, for they are much worse -towards their own countrymen than any others; because,” added he, -confidentially, “they are the simplest. When you land at New York, don’t -go into any of the low public-houses, near the landing-place--‘William -Tell’--and such like--they are all dens of thieves; and now if you -do--you have been warned,--it will be your own faults and you can’t -complain.” He continued for some time giving us advice on this subject, -and although, at that time, I made no exception to the general rule of -knowing better, disbelieving his calumnious warnings because they did -not agree with my preconceived fixed opinions, I found afterwards that -his words were unfortunately but too true. - -A second examination of the baggage exposed more dirt; sick of remaining -longer in disagreeable contact with it, we five took the steamer that -starts at nine o’clock for New York, making the passage of nine miles -in half an hour. There was too much to see, and too much that was quite -new, for the eye to dwell long enough on any one object to receive a -deep impression, and I hardly knew that the boat had started, when she -stopped at the landing-place, and the immense sea of houses of New York, -begirt by a forest of masts, lay before us. - -The steamer had hardly landed, when we were surrounded by a number of -car-drivers, offering to carry our luggage to our destined abode; we -chose two, which took all our things, and for which we had to pay -altogether one dollar--but they had a tolerable distance to go. Zellner, -who had already been in New York, recommended Schw--z’s boarding-house, -whither we all went. In all my life I never saw such a dirty -establishment as old Madame Schw--z’s: it makes me sick now to think of -it. Of course I did not remain much in the house, but for some days -lounged through the fine broad streets, admiring several handsome -buildings. I was much struck by the immense amount of shipping ranged -thickly side by side all round the town, and by the superfluity of -southern fruits; in every street were carts full of pine-apples, -oranges, cocoa-nuts, &c. The finest pines were to be had for from -sixpence to a shilling. - -I had wandered about for a couple of hours, and was about to return to -the boarding house, when turning the corner of a street I came upon one -of the most extraordinary cavalcades I ever saw. It was the funeral of a -poor Irishman, which I will briefly describe, as it is well worth it. -First came a hearse covered with dirty cloth that once had been black. -The driver was seated in front, by no means in a mourning attitude; his -left foot rested on his right knee, the left elbow on the left knee. He -was dressed in a shabby blue coat, a hat with the rim torn and hanging -down; his trowsers might have been white if they had been washed; his -left hand held an apple, which he was eating with the greatest -composure; the right held the whip, with which from time to time he -encouraged his horses; the reins were twisted round his left knee. The -hearse was followed by six luggage cars, each containing from ten to -twelve mourners, sitting back to back, with feet hanging down the sides, -men and women together, in clothes of all colors, eating, drinking, and -laughing: to say the least, it appeared to me a very original kind of -funeral. - -It was late when I arrived at the boarding-house, for when I turned -homewards I found so many things to attract my attention that the hours -flew rapidly by. All my companions were assembled, and we had much to -relate. As we were going to bed about twelve, there was a cry of “fire! -fire!” in the streets. I jumped up and looked out of the window,--the -sky above the opposite houses was deep red. As I was still dressed, and -none of the others would go, I ran down stairs, and hastened in the -direction of the fire; I hurried along one street after another, -following the reflection in the sky; yet it was three quarters of an -hour before I arrived at the fire. It was a small wooden building still -in flames, so I came in good time to see the engines worked. There were -several Germans among those who had hastened to the fire; I asked one of -them how far it was to my boarding-house, and learnt to my horror that -it was two miles off. He assured me that if I ran to every fire that -broke out in New York, I should have nothing else to do all night, as -there are seldom less than two in the twenty-four hours. His words were -confirmed by another alarm in a few hours; and during the three months -that I remained in New York, I remember very few nights passing without -an alarm of fire. The fire companies are excellent, and the most -respectable citizens are enrolled amongst the firemen; the engines are -handsome, and formed of brass and iron, often adorned with a pretty -vignette; they are drawn by the men. How different from our old -thunder-boxes, in Germany, where it takes half an hour to get the horses -ready. - -A week passed so quickly, I could hardly persuade myself that it was -more than two days. I became acquainted with several Germans. The dirt -of the boarding-house became insupportable. I had been introduced to a -German family by a mutual acquaintance from Brunswick, and they agreed -to let me board and lodge with them for three dollars a week, the -ordinary price, washing not included. Washing costs at the rate of four -cents a single piece. - -I had come to New York with the intention of proceeding to Vera Cruz, -but heard so many unfavorable reports of the state of Mexican affairs, -that I was at first undecided; and afterwards, as so many told me of the -disturbed and uncertain state of that country, and warned me, as a new -comer, against going there, I decided on taking a good look at the -United States before I visited other countries. - -My prospects here seemed to improve. A young farmer from Illinois, whom -I met in New York, said that it was not difficult to get a farm on -lease there--a lease in the American sense of the word, where the farmer -obtains a piece of cleared land, with the necessary buildings, for which -he gives the proprietor, who also finds most of the farming implements, -one third of the produce. At the same time, he assured me that two men -could easily manage sixty acres. But he suppressed the fact that these -two must be well acquainted with the American system of farming. - -All sorts of plans came under my consideration, without my coming to any -determination--and time slipped by. - -One Sunday morning I wished to go to church. An acquaintance offered to -accompany me. We went to the German reformed church. We were rather -late, and I was astonished at the excitement and disorder which -prevailed. I was soon to be still more surprised. The preacher, a -robust, powerful man, was very red in the face, spoke with great -vehemence and considerable ability. He paused every now and then to take -a drink. Suddenly, as the confusion was somewhat subsiding, and the -preacher was commenting on the text, a lady stood up, and began to speak -very loud. At first I could not understand what she wanted. With -surprise, I recognized her to be my landlady, and heard such words as -“shame--insufferable--insolence--men--turn out of the pulpit,” &c. As I -was reflecting on what this could mean, the disturbance broke out -afresh. “Down with him out of the pulpit!” “Kick him out!” “Cane him -well!” Such were the sounds that filled the church. The congregation -attempted to get the preacher out of the pulpit, but this was not so -easy as it appeared. The pulpit had a flight of steps on each side, with -a door fastening inside at the foot of each. The insurgents attempted to -storm the steps on the right, but their pastor proved to them that he -belonged to the church militant in the literal meaning of the word. He -made only two steps to the bottom, and gallantly defended the door. But -too many dogs are the death of the fox. The garrison was too weak. While -he defended one side, the other was left exposed. The insurgents made a -breach, stormed the left-hand steps, and took the garrison in the rear. -The preacher was dragged into the middle of the church, but managed to -slip out of the hands of his persecutors, and escaped into a corner, -when, putting himself into a regular boxing attitude, he called out with -an oath--“Come on, all of you.” These words were not mere bravado; for -now that his rear was secure, he kept them all at bay. I had watched the -whole affair, standing on one of the benches. It was not a fair fight; -for while those in front kept out of reach of his fists, those in the -rear kept striking him on the head with umbrellas. At last, making a -desperate sally, he succeeded in escaping. This was all that the -congregation desired, and several talked of “fetching the other -preacher;” but their minds were too excited, and so they separated. On -coming home, I learnt the cause of this uproar from my landlady. The -congregation had dismissed this hard-fisted preacher, and elected -another, who was to have preached to-day for the first time; but they -had reckoned without their host, for the ex-pastor was up at daybreak, -and having his own key, had gone into the church, and taken possession -of the pulpit, where he sat patiently awaiting the turn of events. The -other preacher came in with the congregation, and being a quiet, -peaceable man, he retired; and the former, in spite of threats and -abuse, began the service, and would have carried his point, if my -heroine had not lighted the match which set them all in a blaze. Some -years afterwards I learnt that the same sort of disturbance had occurred -several times in that church. - -I was surprised at seeing no soldiers in New York, except now and then a -couple or so of military-looking men, with blue jackets and trowsers, -and glazed caps. These are Uncle Sam’s soldiers, who devote themselves -to their country for eight dollars a month. They are generally men who -dislike hard work, yet cannot gain a living in any other way. They -enlist for five years. There are besides bodies of militia, German as -well as American battalions, who turn out on grand occasions, and are -well dressed. A short time ago some of the Scots had a meeting, and got -up a battalion in highland costume, the different clans in their proper -tartan, with plaids, bonnets, feathers, targets, claymores, bagpipes, -and the chiefs with eagle’s feathers. Thus they marched through the -greater part of the town. The next day, the “New York Herald” made -severe remarks upon people having a claim to respectability marching -through the town with naked legs, having music into the bargain, to -attract everybody’s attention. - -A great number of emigrants arrived about this time, and filled all the -taverns. I discovered that the Americans did not seem to care so much -about foreigners as I had imagined; and to my great vexation, I saw -that Germans and Irish were thought little more of than negroes. Of -course there are honorable exceptions, for the educated Americans know -how to make a distinction; yet, at that time, it is very possible that I -may have been misinformed. - -It is disagreeable to the feelings of the newly arrived European to -behold the treatment of the unfortunate negroes; for though New York is -not a slave state they are considered no better than cattle. Yet they -enjoy a number of privileges, which they lately obtained through the -kindness of General Jackson. At the same time, they are not allowed to -enter an omnibus, nor to sit anywhere but in the gallery of the theatre. -They must keep to their own churches, and cannot be sworn as witnesses -against the whites. - -After a few weeks’ residence in New York, my landlord asked me to try a -speculation with him, in order, as he said, to get rich in a short time. -He proposed to open a cigar shop. I had no inclination for it at first, -having been so often warned against the Germans, but so many people -spoke well of him, and said he was so much esteemed, that I began to -think he must be an exception. I embarked all the money I possessed in -this business. My partner obtained some, but upon credit; and in a short -time a cigar shop was opened by the firm, in Broadway, the most -frequented street of New York. It seemed a miracle how well I had -managed my affairs. Hardly a month had I been in America, and already I -carried on a business of my own! It was well that this dream lasted only -a short time, or I should have lost everything. - -I began now to Americanize myself. I was no longer surprised when I saw -a fat mulatto woman walking along the street with a pipe in her mouth, -or a lady handsomely dressed, and in the newest fashion, but without -stockings; just as little did I marvel to see a well-dressed gentleman, -in a black frockcoat, and black trousers, gold watch, chain, &c., going -to market with a basket under his arm; and I hardly looked round if I -saw a New Englander riding from market, in bad weather, at full gallop, -with very short stirrups, a basket of vegetables hanging to his left -arm, while his right hand grasped an outspread umbrella. In fact, a man -may accustom himself to any thing. - -I now resolved on making a shooting excursion, and as Zellner had -described the banks of the Hudson as so very beautiful, we started one -fine morning with our guns, by one of the numerous steamers, and ran up -to our shooting grounds, a distance of twenty-two miles, for sixpence. -The voyage alone was worth ten times the money, on account of the beauty -of the scenery. The Hudson is certainly the loveliest river I ever saw, -with its smooth majestic stream, its high steep cliffs, clothed with the -brightest green, with dwelling-houses and villages wherever space will -allow, and thousands of vessels of all descriptions giving such life to -the whole, as fills one with wonder and delight. As we started late, it -was dark when we arrived at our landing-place. We were up at daybreak -next morning, and set off to search the woods and fields, eager to spill -blood. Weary and exhausted with climbing over the number of fences and -hedges, leaping over fallen or half-decayed trees, wading through -morasses and mounting hills, we arrived in the evening at the house of a -cousin of Zellner’s without having seen a feather or any thing else in -the shape of game. Our host received us hospitably, told us that we did -not understand how to find game in America, and promised he would -accompany us on the morrow. Our hopes revived again; we were ready by -break of day, inhaling the sweet morning air and determined upon -slaughter, and doubting whether our game bags would hold all that we -meant to kill. It was yesterday’s fortune repeated. Here we skirted a -wood, there a fence, here we waded a marsh, and there pushed through a -thicket; from daybreak to noon, not a shot had been fired. By the time -we arrived on the banks of the river, and saw a steamer running down -stream, Z. and I had had enough of it, and were rejoiced to see the -steamer answer our signals and stop to take us on board. Hungry and -tired, without having seen a single head of American game, we returned -to New York. After this excursion, I was in no hurry to try another. I -had had enough for once, and attended assiduously to my business; taking -pains at the same time to learn English, for although I had made some -progress in Germany, it sounded like so much Chaldaic or Chinese, till -my ear became accustomed to it; then the foundation that I had formerly -laid helped me to acquire it quickly. - -I remained some weeks longer in the town, otherwise I must have -intrusted all that I possessed to the integrity of strangers, and an -inward misgiving warned me against so doing. At the same time, I began -to reflect that I was fast bound in the town, and could not get out into -the open country; and this feeling became every day more painful and -vexatious. It struck me that this was not exactly the object for which -I had left all that was dear in my native land, and often while brooding -over my late step, it seemed a wild, oppressive dream. It seemed as if I -could not be in the long desired land of freedom, so many thousands of -miles from my loved country, and that I might awake at any moment and -thank God that it was only a frightful delusion. It was however a -reality, and I decided on breaking my fetters. I soon arranged with my -partner; with the exception of a small sum down for travelling expenses, -he was to keep the rest in the business till the end of March, and then -repay the bare sum I had at first invested. - -I left my two chests containing clothes and books in the care of H., and -taking some clean linen and a double-barrelled gun, I started for the -wide world, according to my heart’s desire. Whither, I neither knew nor -cared, except that I wished in the first place to see the Falls of -Niagara, and then to follow wherever fate might send me. I was free, -once more free, and felt my heart swell with the feeling of -independence. I no longer envied the birds of passage, whose flight -towards the south my eyes had lately so mournfully followed. I was as -free as they were, and no less inclined to use my unbound pinions. - -At five in the evening of the 24th Oct., the new steamer “Diamond” left -New York for Albany. I stood on her deck inhaling with delight the pure -balsamic air, viewing with enchanted eyes the glorious scenery. - -My costume seemed probably rather eccentric to some of the stiff -Americans, who kept staring with curiosity at the foreigner who was -leaning on his gun, and thinking little about them, lost in admiration -of the wonderfully beautiful landscape that extends along the shores of -the Hudson. Though my costume was nothing extraordinary, yet the tight -leather trousers, high waterproof boots, short green shooting jacket, -green cap, and open shirt collar, might have appeared so to them. The -beautiful double-barrelled gun attracted many eyes, as well as the -double-edged hunting-knife that hung on the left side. The German game -bag, the powder-horn, shot belt,--all, in short, was different to their -fashion. - -The night was cold and damp, and as on the following morning the sun -broke through the thick clouds, his rays were reflected from the -steeples of Albany; a pretty little town, and though I stayed too short -a time to be able to judge, I believe it is likely to become a handsome -city. I left that morning by the train for Utica. It was the first time -that I had travelled by a railroad, and cutting the air with the speed -of an arrow made an indescribably agreeable impression on me. A drunken -man next to me told me long stories, in the still strange English, with -a comically mournful expression of countenance, and afforded me much -amusement. We arrived at Utica during the night. In the street I found -some men with a carriage, and inquired of them when the canal boat left; -they pointed to the carriage, one of them taking me by the arm; but I, -remembering former warnings, set my foot against the door, and asked -about the fare: “Nothing to pay, nothing to pay,” said they, and at one -step I was seated in the carriage, which soon stopped before a very -grand house. I did not feel quite comfortable under all this -hospitality, for every light in the large building seemed to call out to -me, “Money is the principal thing, therefore get money,” which sentence -I recollect having to translate at Dr. Flügel’s, at Leipzig. I walked -in, however, and inquired for the first boat going to Buffalo; meantime -be it said, my misgiving was not altogether unwarranted, for I had to -pay fifty cents, about 2_s._ 2_d._, for a cup of tea with bread and -butter. The price of the boat was six dollars, table included, which -seemed too dear, and a German Jew who was present took my part and made -an agreement for me for four dollars. It was very cold when I went on -board the canal boat a short time before its departure, and I found the -warm cabin very agreeable. - -The morning broke dull and rainy, and the breakfast-bell roused us too -soon from our beds. An American breakfast is something astonishing to a -newly arrived German. He beholds in surprise coffee, pork, pickled -gherkins, potatoes, turnips, eggs, bread, butter, and cheese, all on the -table at once; but as soon as the stomach has become accustomed to this -strange assemblage, I must honestly acknowledge that it suits a hungry -Christian man much better than dry bread and weak coffee. - -After breakfast I had plenty of time to notice the company with whom I -shared the narrow space of a cabin in a canal boat. There were ten -gentlemen and three ladies; these latter had a cabin to themselves, -separated from the other by a red curtain; over the entrance was the -inscription, “Ladies’ Cabin,” with the friendly reminder of “No -Admittance.” The ladies consisted of two old, and one not young. One -young man, certainly the greatest lout I met with in America, deeply -buried in a coat of his father’s, whose skirts nearly swept the ground, -almost hiding his too scanty trowsers, and a hat so large that he was -obliged to keep shoving it up from his face, played the gallant to them. -These canal boats are very long and narrow, decked over, and rising -about six feet above the water; ours was fitted up for the comfort, or -rather discomfort of the passengers. They are well provided with -windows, hold a number of people, and go very slowly; ours in -particular, drawn by two very quiet horses, seemed to traverse the -landscape at a snail’s pace. The canal is crossed by numerous low -bridges, often only a few inches above the deck, and one must be -constantly on the look-out not to be swept overboard, a disaster I once -happened to witness. Sometimes it is necessary to lie quite flat, a -precaution which also has its dangers, and on one occasion caused a -dreadful misfortune, when a passenger, by a boat that had very little -cargo, was horribly crushed to death between the boat and the bridge. - -On a sudden we stopped with a tremendous crash. Everybody jumped up to -see what had happened; our boat was jammed with another in a narrow part -of the canal, directly under a bridge; and as ours was the stoutest, she -had broken some of the other’s ribs. We remained as immovably fixed as -if we had been built in; all attempts to drag the boat backwards were in -vain, because the horses, knee deep in mud, would not pull together. At -last, in a fit of compassion, and trusting to my waterproof boots, I -jumped out, seized the large whip, and giving the horses a few sharp -cuts, I made them understand that they could if they would. And they -did, but in doing so one of them lashed out behind, in the thickest of -the red mud, so that I was splashed all over with it, and looked more -like a trout than a human being. I crept back, resolving next time not -to be quite so obliging. - -At length the captain came round for the fare; I quietly handed out my -four dollars, and was not a little astounded to learn that an agreement -made with a stranger at Utica was not binding on the captain, and that I -must pay my six dollars like the rest--a bit of experience not too dear -at two dollars. - -So far we had been very comfortable, having had plenty of room; but now -we took in fifteen more passengers, all for Buffalo. While daylight -lasted all went on well enough, but in the evening I really could not -divine where all the people would be stowed; yet with the live cargo of -the Bremen lighter fresh in my memory, I considered nothing impossible. -The sleeping-places in the canal boats consist of long four-cornered -frames, which in the evening are hung up along the cabin; and now that -the number of passengers had so much increased, we had to be packed in -layers. The frames are covered with coarse strong canvas, on which a -small mattress was laid; at least all the passengers who came from Utica -had that accommodation, but now, on account of the number of new -arrivals, that luxury had to be dispensed with. I scrambled into my -swinging bed, having first examined the fastenings, leaving the -lately-arrived passengers playing at cards. - -I awoke in the night with a dreadful feeling of suffocation; cold -perspiration stood on my forehead, and I could hardly draw my breath; -there was a weight like lead on my stomach and chest. I attempted to cry -out--in vain; I lay almost without consciousness. At last I became quite -awake, and remembered where I was, and in what circumstances I was -placed. The weight remained immovable; above me was a noise like distant -thunder: it was my companion of the upper story, who lay snoring over my -head; and that the weight which pressed on my chest was caused by his -body no longer remained a doubtful point. I endeavored to move the -Colossus--impossible. I tried to push, to cry out--in vain. He lay like -a rock on my chest, and seemed to have no more feeling. As all my -attempts to awaken him were ineffectual, I bethought me of my breastpin, -which luckily I had not taken out of my cravat the night before; with -great difficulty I succeeded in moving my arm and reaching the pin, -which I pressed with a firm hand into the mass above me. There was a -sudden movement, which procured me momentary relief; but the movement -soon subsided, the weight was growing heavier and more insupportable, -and to prevent being utterly crushed, I was obliged to reapply the pin. -“What’s that?” “Murder!” “Help!” cried a deep bass voice above me. -Feeling myself free, I slipped like an eel from under the weight, and -saw, by the dim light reflected from a lamp hanging under the deck, a -sight of no common occurrence. A stout heavy man, who slept in the upper -frame without a mattress, was too much for the well-worn canvas; during -his sleep it had given way under the weightiest part of his form, which -descended till it found support on my chest. The thrust of my breastpin -had caused him to make an effort to move, which gave me that opportunity -of making my escape I so gladly seized. As he returned to his former -position with greater force and weight, from the exertions he had made, -the support being gone, the canvas split still wider, and, more than -half asleep, he was sitting on my bed, while his head and feet remained -in his own. He soon began to call out, “Help!” “Murder!” Everybody -started up to see what was the matter, and to laugh heartily at the -extraordinary attitude of this stout gentleman. - -In the morning we arrived at Lockport, where the canal has a fall of -sixty feet, with two sets of locks, one for boats ascending, and the -other for those descending: a noble work for so young a country. Here I -left the boat for the purpose of seeing the Falls of Niagara, towards -which I took the nearest road. It was about two in the afternoon when I -arrived at this most colossal wonder of all the rivers of the earth. I -abstain from any attempt to represent it; inadequate drawings, and -thousands of descriptions, are to be found in all parts of the world; I -will not add to the number. It was so surprisingly grand that I could -only gaze in admiration, and worship God. - -My heart still full of this glorious scene, I avoided the little town of -Manchester, lying close to the falls, and followed the first path that -led into the country, partly for the sake of shooting, and partly to -find a house to sleep in. It became darker and darker, and the mud -seemed to be getting deeper and deeper, when I espied a light, which -acted as a guiding star through the darkness. It shone from the quiet -friendly dwelling of a Pennsylvanian smith, who had settled in the state -of New York, and who, with benevolent hospitality, fed the hungry, and -prepared a warm bed for the tired. I learned from him, and from other -farmers, that Canada was a fine country, that the forests there were -full of game, but that sportsmen were often hard beset by bears and -wolves. - -I took but little time to consider my route, and on the 1st November, a -steamer from Lewiston, a small town on the Niagara river, carried me -over to Toronto, where I remained the night, and started next morning by -another steamer for Hamilton. - -Hamilton is a pretty little town on Lake Ontario in Canada, and although -only a short distance from the frontier of the United States, a great -difference is perceptible as well in general appearance as in trifles. -Most of the settlers in Canada consist of English, Scots, or Irish, who -all keep to their national habits. I twisted my ankle at Hamilton, which -laid me under the disagreeable necessity of remaining there till the -morning of Saturday the 4th, when, recovered and joyful, I again sallied -for the woods, pitying the poor people who were obliged to live in -towns. From Hamilton I proceeded to Dundas, also on the Ontario, and -from thence took a northerly direction towards Preston, turning aside, -two miles short of the town, to visit New Hope, where dwelt, as I was -told, an old German sportsman. I arrived safe and sound at New Hope on -Sunday afternoon, and inquired for the abode of the old German, which I -reached about dusk. He was not at home, but some half-dozen children of -all ages and sizes, stared with their bright clear eyes at the stranger -and his outlandish costume. The father and mother were gone to church; -and the eldest daughter, a girl of about fifteen or sixteen, was -teaching the little ones, some to read and others to spell, from an old -well-thumbed catechism. I sat myself quietly in the corner to await the -return of the parents, and listen to the tattle of the children. - -At length the two heads of the family arrived, to the great joy of the -little ones, who ran to meet them. The man presented so striking a -likeness to one of my friends in Germany, that, in my astonishment, I -hardly answered his friendly “Good evening.” After they had laid aside -their church-going clothes, and made themselves comfortable, we sat -ourselves near the stove, which in Canada often takes the place of the -open fireplace, so hurtful to the eyes. The conversation turned mostly -on farming and shooting. He seemed thoroughly to understand the first, -and to be passionately fond of the latter. He was just the man for me. -He spoke of the former abundance of game, which was fast disappearing -through the increasing population, and he complained of the number of -bunglers who infested the woods, frightening the game, and crippling the -poor deer. He said he was very successful in turkey shooting, which is -still the same sport as described by Cooper in his “Pioneer.” - -When the night was far advanced, my host showed me to a sleeping place -under the roof, where there was no want of fresh air--but I slept like a -top. He had told me of a lake, not many miles off, where there would -most likely be immense flocks of wild duck; so I was off at daylight in -search of some. My new acquaintance had pointed out the direction in -which I should find the lake; a path was out of the question, but I -thought that I should be able to find it without looking at my compass, -and stepped out boldly; but the wood was so thick and there were so many -fallen trees, some lying one over the other, that the sun stood high, -when, taking the compass out of my pocket, and by its help, making a -straight course, I arrived at the lake. I saw plenty of wild-fowl, but -perhaps frightened by others, they kept in the middle, very few -venturing near the banks. This was out of my reckoning, but as the lake -did not seem very large, I resolved on going round it. I had killed -three ducks one after the other, and in my eagerness had forgotten how -the hours flew by, till I suddenly observed that the sun was fast -approaching the west. I now saw that it was not possible to pass round -the lake before sunset, for as I came to the clearings, I perceived that -as yet I had not gone half the way. Thick masses of cloud were gathering -in the N. W., and the wind began to rustle and moan through the trees. I -expected to be obliged to bivouac here, and slightly appeased my hunger -with a bit of dry bread that I found in my pocket, for I had not had -time to roast one of the ducks. The weather threatened worse and worse; -in no pleasant humor I was walking slowly along the shore, when I found -a canoe, made of a hollowed trunk, fastened to the root of a tree. I -stepped in without the least compunction, and paddled to the opposite -shore, distant about two miles and a half, directing my course by a -large dead tree. The wind blew hard, and the waves tossed the rude -awkward craft to such a degree that I was obliged to exert all my -strength and skill to keep her even and to force her ahead. In the mean -time it began to snow, so that I was soon as white as a miller, and had -great difficulty in keeping my eye fixed on the dead tree, and thus -preserving a direct course. At last I landed, secured the canoe, and -looked out for a path towards some habitation. Before it became quite -dark I had discovered a path, which being wet, the snow melted on it as -it fell, leaving a dark line along the white ground. - -Suddenly I heard a noise as if a whole herd of buffaloes were breaking -through the forest, and almost before I could look round, a dark-colored -horse passed at full speed, uttering a very remarkable scream of agony. -A rider sat on his back, who looked behind him in the greatest alarm. I -had hardly caught sight of them, as they passed so rapidly, when another -horse, without a rider, rushed snorting after them. So sudden was it, -that I should have taken it for a dream, if the footmarks in the snow -had not convinced me of the reality. I did not long indulge in useless -meditation on the cause of this nocturnal flight through the forest in -mist and snow, and soon I was happy enough to find a wheel-track. After -about an hour and a half’s walk, I saw a light in the distance, and in a -short time knocked at the door of a small farm-house. A voice called out -in German--“Who’s there?” It fell like balsam on all my organs, but more -particularly on my stomach. The door was opened by the wife of a German -wheelwright, whose husband had ridden into a village some miles off, -and whose return was expected every moment. The warm stove restored my -benumbed limbs to fresh life, which a cup of hot coffee served to -heighten. The husband, a good-natured German, came back in the course of -an hour. He had arrived in the country three years ago, without a -farthing, and now he had a nice little house, a portion of land, and -plenty of work. We went to bed about ten o’clock. It snowed heavily all -night, so, in the hopes of good sport, I started early, and, as my host -would not accept money, I left him the ducks I had killed yesterday. -Loading my left barrel with buck-shot, and fixing fresh caps, I hastened -out of the hot room, and inhaled in long draughts the fresh morning air. - -After an hour’s march, and shooting nothing more than a pheasant and a -rabbit, I was startled by seeing a man approach unlike any I had ever -seen before. I soon found that he was a civilized Indian. He was dressed -in a short woollen frock, blue cloth trowsers, with broad seams, -mocassins on his feet, glass earrings in his ears, and on his head a red -woollen shawl, wound like a turban, under which sparkled his dark fiery -eyes, while his black straight hair hung over his temples. He carried -the long American rifle, and had altogether a bold and romantic -appearance. His Indian belt, ornamented with beads, held a tomahawk; and -his powder-horn and shot-belt hung on his right side. After a short and -friendly greeting, we attempted to converse,--but that was no easy -matter, he speaking broken English, while I was, as yet, only partially -acquainted with that language. On my asking him if he had seen any -game, he pointed to the ground before him, showing the fresh trail of a -bear in the snow, which I had not observed, as my attention had been -drawn to him. He made signs for me to go with him, and I need hardly say -that I followed him with a heart beating with joy and excitement. We may -have gone about five miles, through marsh, moor, and bush, over hill and -valley, and hundreds of fallen trees, constantly following the trail, -when my silent comrade came to a halt, and pointing to a thick coppice, -said,--“I believe we find him.” My excitement was now at its height; but -the Indian directed me quietly to take my stand by a tree, while he went -round the coppice to see if the trail was continued on the other side. I -had in the mean time dropped a ball over the swan-shot, and eagerly -watched every motion of the bush. It opened suddenly about fifty paces -from me, and the bear, a dark brown fellow, walked out to seek his -safety in flight. In an instant my ball with the swan-shot, was in his -skin, and immediately after that the barrel of buck-shot. Perhaps -surprised by the report of the gun, perhaps smarting from the buck-shot, -Bruin stood for a moment snuffing the air, and then ran furiously -towards me. A ball from the Indian’s rifle stopped his attempt to -revenge himself, and stretched him dead upon the earth. The Indian cut -down a young straight tree with his tomahawk, and having ripped open and -cleaned out the bear, we bound his paws together, and, as he was not -very large, slung him to the tree, and carried him to Preston, which was -not very far off. We arrived in the evening, and my Indian friend sold -the bear for four dollars. He would probably remain in Preston till he -had spent it all in drink, and then take to the woods again for more -game. - -I began to find the climate too cold for me, and several Germans had -told me that here it was much colder in winter than in our own country. -I had no fancy for that, so turned south towards Lake Ontario, in order -to get on to Buffalo. I shot a pheasant which gave me a delicate meal, -and had hardly left the fire to recommence my march, when I saw seven -wolves standing at a distance of about seventy yards. Without a moment’s -consideration, I dropped lightly down in the snow to load one barrel -with ball, fearing that I should not do much with No. 4 shot; but when I -got up again the wolves had taken their leave. As they had fled towards -the S. E., I thought of following, to try and get one or two of their -scalps (government gives six dollars for a wolf’s scalp), but as the sun -was getting low, and looked very red, I gave up the chase. I had seen -several deer in the course of the day, but could not get a shot at them, -and my stomach began to complain considerably. An American would have -helped himself by shooting squirrels, of which there were plenty, but I -hadn’t the heart to eat one of these happy little creatures. Luckily I -shot a hare, and had now the comfort of being able to appease my hunger. -It was out of the question to think of finding a house for the night, as -I was no longer in a track, but in the thick of the forest, and so, -before it became quite dark, I collected as much dry wood as I could, -cleared away the snow from under a fallen tree, and lighted a fire -beneath it, which soon blazed up merrily. When I had got comfortably -warm, I set to work on my hare. I opened it, cleaned it out with snow as -well as I could, and stuck it on a piece of wood before the fire, -placing a piece of bark under it to catch the dripping, with which I -basted it. I felt very much the want of salt and bread, but hunger is a -good sauce. With the exception of the two legs, which I reserved for -breakfast, I devoured the whole. When I had finished, I heaped more wood -on the fire, and prepared to pass my first night in the open air in -America. I laid my game-bag under my head, pulled my cap well over my -ears, and with my feet to the fire was soon asleep. I slept soundly till -the sharp morning air awoke me. The fire had burned out, and I was quite -benumbed by the frost, and shook so that I could hardly light the fire -again. At last I succeeded, and gradually thawed. The rising sun found -me deep in consideration of my two legs of hare, which I looked at so -long that at length I could see only the bones. After thus taking care -of myself, I resumed my march southwards with fresh vigor, and about ten -o’clock the crowing of a cock denoted that I was not very far from a -human habitation. I hastened forward, and was soon saluted by the -barking of dogs. The proprietor was in the forest, cutting wood for a -fence. His wife, a pretty little American woman, treated me hospitably -with bread and milk, and assured me that I was not above twenty miles -from the Buffalo road, and that I should find plenty of farm-houses as I -went south. She would not on any account accept payment for my -refreshment, and so, with hearty thanks, and working my way through a -legion of dogs, I sallied joyfully forth, making the Canadian woods -resound with German songs. - -On the following morning I reached the Buffalo road, lined on both sides -with farms, and on which a sort of stage-coach runs. I was now again in -the cultivated part of the country. Wheat is grown in large quantities, -and answers very well, as do oats and barley; Indian corn does not -attain the degree of perfection in which it is found further south. The -ears were small, and most of those I saw had yellow grain. - -About thirty miles from the town, I overtook a cattle dealer from the -United States, who was on his road back. He seemed a good sort of -fellow, and I resolved to travel the thirty miles in his company. We -soon became acquainted. He had two enormously fat oxen, which he had -bought in Canada, and a dreadfully thin horse, on which he kindly -invited me to take turns to ride, as he would willingly walk a little. - -A light but penetrating rain was falling, and the ride would not have -been disagreeable, though the road had become slippery; only the good -man was constantly offering the horse, while I was riding, to every -person he met, and would have been glad to exchange it for a couple of -cows. When tired, he mounted again, and I walked. He carried a book in -his pocket containing a deeply affecting tragedy, and as soon as he was -firmly fixed in the saddle, he invariably took it out, and began to -declaim, holding the book in his left hand, and gesticulating vehemently -with his right, in which he brandished his long cattle whip. Whenever -the more interesting parts of the tragedy occasioned an extra forcible -movement of the right arm, and with it of the whip so formidable to the -oxen, an implement on which they kept a constant watch, they started on -one side or ran back, and only the prosaic “Quiet there! Gently!” &c., -&c., uttered in a pathetic tone, brought back the horned audience to -their duty. - -On the evening of the 11th of November, I came a second time to the -Falls of Niagara, and could now admire their grandeur and majesty from -the Canadian side. From thence a beautiful road runs along the Niagara -river to Lake Erie. The road itself is good and dry; on the left the -glorious wide river, shaded with trees of the original dark forest, on -the right a succession of prosperous farms, with excellent orchards; -altogether a most enchanting prospect. The whole distance appeared -scarcely more than a few paces. A few miles from Buffalo I crossed a -ferry worked by horses in a large perpendicular wheel, and was now in -the United States again. What I saw of Canada, showed me that it is, at -least this part of it, a beautiful and fertile country, with a healthy, -though very cold climate, too cold to suit me. It produces excellent -corn, but except in the thickly inhabited parts, sheep and pigs do not -succeed on account of the numerous wolves. Many Canadian farmers assured -me that the bite of a wolf was like that of a venomous reptile to these -animals, and that however slightly they may have been bitten, they are -sure to die. But perhaps these deaths may have been caused by the bites -of rabid wolves. - -It was Sunday afternoon when I stepped into the public room of the -“William Tell,” in Buffalo, and seated myself in a corner to rest. The -eyes of several respectable German operatives, who were all in hot -political debate, were at first attracted with astonishment towards the -armed stranger, but soon following up their dispute they forgot all -listeners, and I think it might very likely have come to more than -words, if the host, a little fat figure, had not rolled himself in -amongst them, and restored peace with the conciliatory words: “You are -all as foolish as so many stockfish.” In these words, the equality of -persons was proclaimed, and their feelings were pacified. It was, -however, no trifle that formed the subject of their dispute; for an -honest shoemaker would by no means allow that the English could send any -troops over, on account of the disturbances in Canada, because the -Russian was sitting across their necks. A cabinet-maker, seated opposite -to him, maintained that Russia was too far off from England to be able -to make war so quickly; but the shoemaker proved to him so clearly that -Russia was close to England on the north, and that there was only a -broad strip of land between the two Principalities, that the astonished -cabinet-maker was silenced by the overwhelming amount of solid learning; -the shoemaker admitted that the march from Russia to England was -difficult, as the soldiers had sometimes to wade up to their shoulders -in sand. Whence the good man had obtained his idea of a march through -sand, and his geographical knowledge, is more than I can say, but the -debate was amusing enough; and when the shoemaker appealed to me for my -opinion, I agreed with him of course, but told him that the Russians -intended to lay down bear-skins on the sand to make the march easier, -upon which he exclaimed, in astonishment, “What desperate fellows!” - -I was up early on the following morning in order to see the town; it is -a very pretty place, and contains many Germans; it must become, and in -fact is already, the central point of all the interior commerce of the -north, for railroads, canals, steamers, and sailing vessels rival each -other in bringing and taking away produce. - -[Illustration] - - - - -CHAPTER III. - -OHIO--INDIANA--ILLINOIS--MISSOURI. - - Lake Erie--Cleveland--Double-beds--March through the - forest--Canton--Cincinnati--Lawrencebourg--A burning - forest--Deserted farm-house--Wet weather and swollen rivers--A - drunken companion--Versailles--Intrepid German - Jews--Vincennes--Fording a river--The prairies of - Illinois--Shooting deer--Salem--An Illinois - settler--Lebanon--Ague--Passage of the Mississippi--St. - Louis--German emigrants--A week’s work in the forest--Lead mines of - Missouri--Courant river, the boundary of Missouri. - - -About noon the steamer “North America” left for Cleveland, in Ohio -State, and with it my worthy self. There was such a number of passengers -in the steerage, that it was hardly possible to move, and the state of -affairs was made worse by each of the American ladies[B] having a short -pipe in her mouth. Yet worse was coming. Lake Erie, under the influence -of a strong breeze, began to get very rough in its treatment of the -boat; one pipe after another was extinguished, and the visages -lengthened and whitened very suspiciously. I observed this change with -horror, and took refuge in one of the uppermost of three rows of -sleeping berths, to be out of range of shot. - - [B] Two Englishmen travelling together in America, on board a steamer, - one of them was thus accosted: “I am the gentleman that cleans - the shoes, and that man (pointing to the other) says, you are to - pay.”--TRANSLATOR. - -It was dark when we arrived at Cleveland, and I stood on the shore in -some difficulty, not knowing exactly where to look for shelter, when a -young German, who, by the light of a lantern, recognized me by my -costume for a fellow countryman, asked me if I would like to pass the -night in a German house: on my quickly agreeing to it, he led me to one, -some hundred yards off, where I soon went to bed. The beds in America -are all double, that is to say, so wide as easily to hold three, and -indeed I have sometimes made a fourth. I was shown into this abode of -dreams by a little hump-backed youth, and on my asking if I could sleep -alone there, he replied that perhaps some stranger might come by the -stage-coach. Towards midnight I was disturbed by a noise, and thought to -myself “Oh, oh, here comes the stranger;” and as I was not yet -accustomed to this American fashion, I took the trouble to look up to -see what my bedfellow was like, and had the felicity to see that a negro -as black as pitch was preparing his ebony members to occupy part of my -bed. I moved to the extreme edge, leaving at least two-thirds of the -space to this son of the night. I was at this time but little acquainted -with American habits, and if this had happened to me later, the landlord -would not have had a whole bone in his skin; for it is the greatest -insult to a white man in North America, and more particularly in the -slave states, to place a negro on equal terms with him. - -I was up before day, and, according to custom, went out to have a look -at the town. From Cleveland I set off along the canal that goes to -Portsmouth, on the river Ohio, intending to visit my fellow passenger by -the “Constitution,” the apothecary Vogel, at the village of Canton. I -shot several wild-fowl and a few hares as I went along, and found a bed -at a New Englander’s, who gave me a hospitable reception. I was much -amused by a little German maid, who had only lately left her home, and -understood very little English, but as she spoke Low German, they -managed to make out what each party wanted; they had a great regard for -her, as she was very industrious. - -It was the 17th of November when I arrived at the agreeable little town -of Canton, situated in the middle of the forest. Some of the buildings -were in very good taste. My friend was not here, and I learned that he -lived in Cincinnati; so I decided on seeking him there, and, having -nothing to detain me in Canton, I set off again the same evening. - -Ohio is very extensively cultivated, and the journey through such a -succession of fields was rather monotonous; there was a farm-house to be -seen nearly every half hour, yet here and there was a pretty bit of -forest, as I found rather too soon. About a hundred miles from -Cincinnati I was overtaken one evening by a heavy penetrating rain, and -was soon wet through and through. I was anxious to find shelter, and was -travelling a well-frequented road, when all at once it divided into -three; I chose the most beaten, and pushed on through mud and mire, till -I came to a wood, where all further traces of a road vanished, leaving -me cold and wet in the forest. A fire was out of the question. I was not -inclined to return, as the other roads might also lead to the forest; -so I made my way through the shrubs and bushes, which could not make me -more wet than I was already. I sank down from fatigue at times, but, -after a few moments’ rest, roused myself to fresh efforts. At length, -like a port to a ship in a storm, I saw a light through the branches. I -hastened, as fast as my tired legs would carry me, in that direction, -and soon came to a fence, and shortly afterwards to a farm-house. The -farmer looked at first rather shyly at the dripping wet traveller, who -requested entrance so late in the night; but the customary hospitality -did not let him hesitate long, and a warm fire, with a quickly prepared -supper, considerably refreshed my stiff and weary limbs. - -I arrived at Cincinnati, the largest town in Ohio, on the river of that -name, on the 26th of November, without further adventures, and found my -friend the apothecary quite well; the hearty pleasure he expressed on -seeing me was ample reward for the trouble I had taken to find him, and -I passed some happy days in his society. I was much pleased with the -fine town of Cincinnati, the “Queen of the West,” as the Americans call -it. It is the centre of commerce of the West, and owes its rapid rise -and prosperity to its connection by steamers and railroads with the -seaports on the east coast, by canal with Lake Erie and the St. -Lawrence, and by the Ohio and Mississippi with New Orleans. From -Cincinnati I made short shooting excursions into Kentucky, though with -little success, obtaining at most a few hares, and some of the small -American partridges, with now and then a wild duck. - -On the 6th of December I bid adieu to the agreeable town of Cincinnati, -and on the same evening arrived at the border of the State, formed by -the little river Miami: I slept there, and crossed over into Indiana on -the following morning. Two miles further I reached the little town of -Lawrencebourg, on the Ohio, and inquired the nearest way to St. Louis; a -question which no one could answer, as they said they never knew of any -one travelling hundreds of miles on foot, when they could go so easily -by the steamers. At last, with much trouble, I learnt something of the -direction, and set off on the journey. I got a good dinner at a farmer’s -in return for a hare I had shot, and passed the night in a solitary -house with some very worthy people. - -The 8th of December was a fine day for a walk, and the evening was mild -and agreeable. I was walking on at a good pace, when a farmer told me as -I passed his house that I should find a mill about six or seven miles -further on, where I could pass the night; the sun was already low in the -heavens. I was in the midst of a thick wood when it became dark, and no -mill to be seen; after some time it was somewhat lighter, and I had no -fear of losing my way; moreover, the temperature was very agreeable, and -in case of necessity, I should not have minded camping out, or sleeping -in the forest. At length I saw a light at some distance through the -trees, and the hopes of a warm bed and cup of hot coffee produced a good -effect upon my European system, as yet unweaned from these luxuries. As -I advanced, the lights became brighter and more numerous, and I did not -know what to think. Was it a town, or an Indian camp before me? To put -an end to the uncertainty I hurried on, particularly as my right road -lay in that direction, and soon I stood before a burning forest, blazing -up gloriously in the dark night, making the background still darker, and -giving a ghost-like appearance to the trees on the right and left. This -new scene was too wonderful and imposing for me to hurry past it; so I -sat down on one of the fallen scorched trunks to enjoy the awfully -sublime prospect. I may have remained sitting looking on for about half -an hour, when, about twenty paces from me, a blazing oak fell with a -heavy hollow sound, sending glowing charcoal, burning branches, and -thousands of sparks in all directions. This was rather too near to be -pleasant, so I turned to seek another road through the forest, which -appeared now so much darker than before, on account of the brilliant -light I had just been gazing on. - -There seemed to be no end to the forest, and I began to think that the -mill existed only in the good farmer’s imagination, when I heard a sound -of rushing water, and, later, the lowing of a cow. I turned off in the -direction of the sound, first taking the precaution to light a fire, -that I might retrace my steps in case I lost my way. About half a mile -brought me within sight of a dwelling; on coming nearer I discovered a -milldam, and several cows standing about the fence saluted the new comer -with a long-drawn friendly low. I joyfully shook the dust from my feet, -and knocked at the low door: all was as silent as the grave. I knocked -again--nothing moved--no voice called a welcome “come in.” After -knocking three times, I was accustomed to open the door; I pushed this -open in rather ill-humor, and found--a deserted house, with all as still -as death. The stars shone through a hole in the roof, the chimney had -fallen in. It causes a shudder to see a place deserted that you expect -to find occupied by an industrious family: I closed the door, and sprang -over the fence, leaving the building to its mournful solitude. - -The fire I had lighted was nearly burnt out, but I found it again, and -followed hastily my former path. After about another hour’s walk, I -heard the bark of a dog, and confiding with a joyful heart in this sure -sign of an approach to a human habitation, I stepped out quickly to the -long-sought mill. Dogs bayed, the wheel clattered, a bright light shone -through all the crevices of the loghouse, and everything showed that I -should soon find shelter for the night;--and in a few minutes I was -comfortably seated in the chimney corner. - -My host was a kindly, good-humored man, had lived some years in Indiana, -and was in good circumstances. After a delicious supper, he led me out -of the house, and said, “I will show you a little chap, such as you -never saw before in your life.” He kept his word. Under an inverted tub -was a gray animal, about the size of a cat, but thicker in the body, -with short legs, head and muzzle like a fox, or rather, more like a -colossal rat, with ugly finger-like claws, and a tail about a foot long, -devoid of hair. These creatures are constantly on the look-out for -fowls, and make great havoc amongst the farmers’ poultry. The Americans, -and sometimes the immigrant Germans, eat the flesh and esteem it a -delicacy. The miller made no ceremony with his prisoner, and, after -killing it, he cut off its claws and tail, skinned it, washed it, and -prepared it for cooking, telling me it would serve for a delicate -breakfast; but I could not make up my mind to eat an animal looking so -much like a rat. - -It rained hard all night, giving me a sorry prospect for my next day’s -journey; nevertheless, I rose early, and took leave of the miller on -purpose to escape his “delicate breakfast.” - -The ground was soft and slippery, and it was not without reason that I -had feared the swelling of the mountain streams; yet, trusting in my -fortune, I went on in good spirits. About ten o’clock it began to rain -again pretty sharply, and about noon I came to a rapid, roaring mountain -stream, which rushed towards the Ohio, carrying some large trees along -with it. Here it was necessary to reflect on what was best to be done, -for though I could have swum across, it would have been extremely -disagreeable, as I had no change of clothing, and the water was -considerably colder than the air. After wandering for some miles up and -down the river in search of means to cross it, night came on, and I was -obliged to camp in the wood. After kindling a good fire, I went to -sleep, lulled by the sound of the water, but waking up now and then, -thinking I might receive a visit from some wild beast. - -On the following morning I was early on my legs, and examined the river. -Like all these mountain streams, it had risen rapidly, and fallen as -quickly, having considerably abated in the course of the night. I had -already resolved on trying the passage, when I saw two horsemen coming -down the hill towards me. My difficulties were now at an end; one of -them took me up behind, and I was landed all dry on the other side. - -I kept on along the somewhat inclined road, sometimes slipping, -sometimes sinking deep in mud, abusing all American roads and American -weather, when, not very far from the little town of Versailles, I saw a -man with a rifle coming down the hill towards me. He did not seem to be -keeping a very steady course, and when we came nearer, I saw clearly -that I had not made a great mistake in supposing him to be very drunk. -When he came up to me, he winked with his glassy eyes, and shook me -heartily by the hand: so far so good: but when he caught sight of a -bottle I had slung by my side, he made a sudden grasp at it; however, I -was too quick for him, and, like a bear defending her cubs, I wrenched -it out of his hand, and then, with the most imperturbable look in the -world, I said “That is not for you,” and placed it in my pocket. He -yielded to his fate; but, seeing my double-barrelled gun, he wanted to -examine it closer, and to have a shot with it. By this time I had had -enough of it, and would not trust him, so I turned on my heel and -continued my journey. He called out “Stop!” I took no notice; again he -called out, “Stop!” and I distinctly heard him cock his rifle. I turned -instantly, taking my gun from my shoulder, but too late; his ball went -whistling just over my head, and the echo repeated the sharp crack of -his rifle. I now lost all patience, and snatching the whalebone ramrod -out of my gun, I ran after him, caught him by the collar, pulled him -down, and belabored him with the pliant ramrod, till only a few inches -of it were left, he roaring “Mur--der!” “Mur--der!” all the while with -might and main. I must acknowledge that I felt some satisfaction as I -left him lying smarting in the mud. - -Towards evening I passed through Versailles, where I procured a new -ramrod. What a piece of irony to call such a place Versailles! but it is -a custom of the Americans to give high-sounding names to their little -settlements. Already in the State of New York, I had passed through -Syracuse, Babylon, Rome, Venice, Alexandria, London, and Paris--villages -of seven or eight houses. - -I arrived about the 11th December at Friedmann’s farm. The proprietor -was a German in good circumstances in Indiana: his property, though not -large, was very productive, and his cattle were very fine. He was the -only German settler whom I fell in with in my march through Indiana, -although there are several in that state. The sound of my mother tongue -fell doubly sweet on my ear after so long a privation. I remained to -dinner, and then set off in good spirits, on a road which improved as I -advanced, towards Vincennes on the Wabash. - -Towards evening on the 12th, I came to a large, clean-looking house, and -when I went in to ask if I could have a bed, I found two German Jews -sitting comfortably by the fire, who looked at me with astonishment, -and, as it seemed to me, with displeasure. The host was an elderly man, -whose grandfather and grandmother had emigrated from Germany; he spoke -very good German, and was uncommonly friendly, and we chatted away -together the whole evening. The two Israelites had in the mean time been -whispering a great deal together; at length one of them brought his -chair nearer to mine, and began asking several questions, which I -readily answered; amongst others, if I should start early in the -morning, and which way I intended to go? why I carried a gun and hunting -knife? &c. It struck me that they were not very courageous, and I -resolved to have a joke with them: I first asked if they carried on a -good business? what sort of wares they had in their two large packs; if -they had any articles of gold? if they meant to leave early? which road -they intended to take? if they would have far to go through the forest, -before they came to another farm? The Jew anxiously parried all these -questions, while his companion sat by without speaking a word; but when -I asked if they had made much money, they both called out in a scream, -“We have got no money at all;” so that I was obliged to bite my lip to -prevent a burst of laughter. - -I was disturbed several times in the night by the squabbling of the -Israelites about the best place in their common bed. On waking up at -early dawn I saw that the birds were flown. When I descended to my host, -the two large packs and the two Jews had disappeared; on my inquiring -after them, he told me that they had started before daylight with as -little noise as possible. I laughed heartily, and told him the whole -history, which tickled him amazingly. - -The road from this house was at first pretty good, but it rained hard. -When I came to the flat country in the neighborhood of Vincennes it was -full of pools, and on arriving on the prairie, about a mile from that -town, the whole space between it and me was one sheet of water. Night -coming on, it would have been impossible for me to find my way but for -occasional lights in the town, towards which I directed my steps, -sometimes over my knees in water, and arrived about seven o’clock in -Vincennes, which had not much to boast of as to dryness. The night was -dark as pitch, as I groped my way along the unlighted streets in search -of quarters. A pair of lonely oxen standing in the street looked at me -pathetically, and lowed as I passed close by them. A short distance from -them I found the house I wanted: it belonged to a Pennsylvanian German, -who kept a tavern. I was soon in front of a warm refreshing fire, which, -in my present condition, was what I stood most in need of. As soon as I -was well warmed, I took a survey of the neighborhood. Around me was a -set of regular conventional faces, with American indifference stamped on -the countenances of all the company, who, having finished their meal, -were sitting round the fire, rocking in their chairs, and picking their -teeth. But amongst them I perceived fixed upon me the glances of a pair -of real German looking eyes. I addressed their owner, and found that I -had not been mistaken; he was a German smith and mason, and a very well -educated man for his station. We sat talking together by the fire till -late in the night. In the heat of conversation, he repeated some of his -own poetry, which I listened to patiently, in return for his kind -attempts to amuse me. He had been a long time in America, and had -suffered much, without gaining much experience, being one of those -good-natured souls, who are unwilling to take advantage of others, -though often imposed upon themselves. - -It rained in torrents during the night, but cleared up towards morning, -and began to freeze. On going down to the river I met some horsemen, who -had returned from the other side, and declared that it was not possible -to proceed; for not only was the water very deep, but the ice on the -surface was so thick, that it would have cut the horses in breaking -through it. For a moment I was undecided: I could not stay in Vincennes, -because my small supply of money would not admit of great outlay, and I -had yet a considerable distance to travel. I went down to the ferry, but -the ferrymen also strongly advised me to remain at Vincennes, as the -road was quite impassable: however I was obstinate, and crossed the -ferry. - -The ground was dry close to the river, but I was stopped by the water -further on. I persisted till noon, trying to find a passage, and upon a -tolerably empty stomach, for I had eaten little more for the last -twenty-four hours than a bit of bread and cheese. Yet I made no -progress, so I resolved to dash at it, and wade through the water to -some houses about two miles off, where the ferrymen had told me I should -find dry ground. At first it was only up to my knees, and my water-proof -boots kept me dry; but it soon became deeper and deeper. I was obliged -to fasten my gamebag on my shoulder, and wade along, sometimes up to the -waist, and sometimes up to the chest in the cold element, all the while -having to break the ice in front of me with the butt of my gun. It took -four hours to do the two miles, and only the conviction that I must -either break through the ice or drown, gave me force to carry out my -resolution. At length I reached a fence, and stepped on dry ground. I -endeavored to climb over in vain; my lower garments and limbs were -frozen too hard. I was obliged to pull down a part of it to make a -passage, and it was not till I had been more than an hour by the fire -that I was thawed enough to be able to move freely. - -The continuation of the road was dry, with one short exception; and the -next house that I came to was quite a harbor of refuge for this night, -as I was much in need of rest and refreshment. - -I now for the first time saw the wide prairies which extend through -Illinois, and present a dismal prospect in this cold season. The long -waving yellow grass gives a melancholy tint to the picture; the wide -spread straw-colored surface, fringed by a forest in the distant -horizon, depresses the spirits. The frost had set in again, so that at -least I could follow my route with dry feet, and at a good pace. The -first head of large game that I fell in with was a buck, making long -jumps through the high grass, and putting up large flocks of prairie -fowl, which flew to some distance before they settled. In the house -where I passed the night, I gave my gun a thorough cleaning, and put it -in good condition. On the following morning, about eight o’clock, I came -to the Fox river, where I found two houses. To my astonishment, this -also was a town, and called Waterton. A very pretty American woman, who -kept a sort of tavern, set bread and milk with wild honey before me. -She tried hard to persuade me to settle here, and, if possible, induce -other Germans to do so; but my water excursion was still too fresh in my -memory for me to take a fancy to the place, although it appeared to be a -land of milk and honey, for enormous herds of cattle were pasturing in -the prairies, and wild honey was very abundant. - -I was so refreshed by my meal, that I went on my way with the springing -step of a sedan-chairman. I had indulged in the agreeable idea of a dry -road, but found myself wofully deceived, for as the little Wabash had -overflowed its banks, I had about two miles to wade through water. The -road lay along rather high ground, and was clear of ice, but there was -plenty of it between the trees on the lower levels. As I approached the -end of the watery path, and could see dry land in front of me, I heard -something rustling through the water, and crashing the ice: I looked -round, and beheld five deer coming towards me with long bounds. I stood -quite still, awaiting their approach with a beating heart; a noble buck -and four does were passing about fifty paces from me. I aimed at the -leader; he made a spring into the air, and fell dead. I had some trouble -to bring my buck to land; for although the American deer are smaller -than the German red deer, yet the one I had shot weighed at least 140 -pounds. I cut him up, skinned him, lopped a branch from a tree, made a -bag of the skin with the hair outwards, put the two legs and back into -it, then hanging the rest on a tree for any new comer, I trudged away -with my burden for a couple of miles to the village of Maysville. Here I -sold my prize, and passed the night, starting on the following morning -across a twelve-mile prairie. - -A cutting north-wester blew from the great lakes, so that my quickest -pace hardly sufficed to keep me warm. After passing through a small -wood, and surmounting a hill, I came to another little town, called -Salem. On the 21st of December I had another prairie, twenty-two miles -wide, before me: though still very cold, it was good walking over the -hard frozen ground. In the evening I arrived at a farmhouse, where I -passed the night. Just as I came to the house, the farmer was leading -his horse by the bridle into the sitting-room, which I should have taken -for the stable, had I not seen smoke issuing from the chimney. Full of -curiosity, I followed my host into his little dwelling, and here the -riddle was explained. He had been hauling wood, and he had fastened his -horse to a log about eight feet long, to draw it into the house; then he -rolled it to the fire-place, which took up nearly one whole side of the -little block-house, and as he could not conveniently turn the horse on -account of tables, chairs, and beds, he had made an opening on the side -opposite the door, in order to lead him out again. I had shot several -prairie birds in the course of the day, and they afforded us a delicate -supper. They are very numerous in these wide plains, and I have seen -flocks of from 600 to 700 of them. They are about the size of our -domestic fowls, but with a longer neck, and have a tail like a -partridge; their color is an ashy gray. I shot only one gray prairie -wolf; they are much smaller than the black wolves, and very shy. - -On the 23rd of December I arrived at Lebanon, a little hamlet on a hill -about twenty miles from St. Louis. My thoughts turned involuntarily to -the gigantic cedars; the highest tree on this mountain of Lebanon was -the tavern sign-post. Next day I had a march of thirty-two miles: as the -usually soft ground was now frozen hard, the route was very rough, and -hurt my feet; yet I pushed on, and in the afternoon arrived in the -valley of the Mississippi, or, as they call it opposite St. Louis, the -“American bottom;” it is considered the most productive land in the -United States. The vegetable mould must be from fifty to sixty feet -deep; but it is low, and in consequence wet, and therefore unhealthy. - -During my progress through Illinois I heard constant complaints of ague, -particularly from the Germans; it is very prevalent all the summer, and -even in winter they are not always free from it. The pale countenances -of all, especially of the children, bore too strong evidence that the -complaint was well founded. - -At length, after sunset, I arrived on the eastern bank of the -Mississippi, and heard to my great vexation that the river was so full -of ice, that it was utterly impossible to get across. At any rate it was -not to be thought of for this evening, so that I was obliged to pass -another night in Illinois. Very tired with my long journey, I went early -to bed. I was awakened in the night by a fresh arrival, who threw -himself right upon me. I moved a little to one side, while he took up -the middle of the bed; I should have had room enough if the stranger had -not been very restless. Now as I did not like the idea of being -disturbed all the rest of the night, it was necessary to obtain peace in -some way or other; so, drawing myself up like a hedgehog, and planting -my shoulder against his side, and my feet against the wall, before he -could imagine what I was about, I sent him with a sudden jerk into the -middle of the room, and then coolly told him the conditions on which I -would let him come into bed again. As the night was too cold to admit of -his sleeping on the floor, he agreed to all I required, and remained -quiet for the rest of the night. - -I was up early the next morning, and heard that a boat was about to try -the passage. We started at nine o’clock, and were six in the boat--two -at each oar, one in the bows to shove away the ice, and one half dead -from fear. With indescribable trouble we succeeded in reaching the -middle of the stream, where the ice had become fixed round a small -island. If we had attempted to row round it we should have been carried -down too far below the town, so we had to get out, and drag the boat -over the rough blocks of ice, and launch her again on the other side; -often we were jammed between immense masses, so that I thought every -moment the boat must be crushed. About noon we gained the opposite -shore, and landed immediately below St. Louis. The difference of time -between Germany and St. Louis is about seven hours, so that while -families at home were enjoying their Christmas festivities around the -brilliantly lighted trees, I was toiling with difficulty through the -waves and large masses of floating ice of the Mississippi. The church -bells were ringing, as, on a bright clear day, I entered this city of a -foreign land. I expected to find letters and money from New York, but to -my no small astonishment I was disappointed. There was now no chance of -any until I arrived at New Orleans; the question was, how was I to get -there? I had not money enough to pay my passage by a steamer, and none -of them would take me as one of the crew; so I resolved to trust to my -legs again. The sale of some game had brought a few dollars, with which -I paid my expenses here, and on the 31st December I set off again alone, -with not very cheering prospects for the commencement of the new year. -At night I lighted a fire, and laid myself under a tree, for I was not -in a humor to seek society; it was past midnight before I fell asleep. -Next morning’s sun brought fresh courage and fresh confidence. In going -southwards from St. Louis, the traveller has no little trouble to find -the right direction among the cross roads that traverse the country, and -I made so many mistakes that it took nearly five days to go fifty miles, -yet without having to pass another night in the forest, as I found a -farm-house every evening, whose owners gave me an hospitable reception. - -A great many Germans inhabit this part of the country, particularly -Suabians, living by agriculture, and, when not too far from the town, by -carrying and selling wood, as there is none in the immediate -neighborhood of St. Louis, except some small stunted oaks. - -My funds by this time had shrunk down to a single American dollar, whose -superscription, “E pluribus unum,” appeared a bitter sarcasm on my -present circumstances. The third day of my wanderings in Missouri broke -dull and moist through the mist; it began to rain, and the roads became -slippery. About noon I arrived at another cross road, and was -deliberating which to take, when I heard a cock crow not very far off. -The sound was music to my ears at such a moment. I took the path leading -towards it, and soon came to the fence of a little corn-field; upon the -fence sat a curious figure, swinging himself to and fro, and singing in -a low melodious voice some song unknown to me. As he heard my steps he -sprang from the fence, and a poor pale sickly lad stood before me. He -offered me his right hand with a smile, and with his left pushed away -the long lank wet hair from his eyes; he led me quietly to the door and -disappeared. His father, an old farmer, told me that I should find some -German settlements about eight or nine miles further on, and though it -was still raining, I resolved on continuing my journey, and reached the -block-houses of my countrymen before dark. - -The weather continuing bad, and I having but little money, I resolved to -accept work if I could find it. Three brothers living here, who seemed -good sort of people, were ready to employ me. We were to agree about the -wages after a week’s trial. The next day saw me sally forth early in the -morning, armed with a heavy hoe, to the unaccustomed work of rooting up -bushes. It made the muscles and sinews of my arms ache and swell, so it -happened very opportunely for me that the following day was the festival -of the Three Kings, and as the honest Germans do no work on that day, I -was very much obliged to the Three Kings for their appearance. But -though they would not work for themselves, we all went, according to the -custom here, to help build a house for a neighbor, who had lately -settled, and for which the logs were already cut and collected. - -The week passed by without further incident. I worked very hard, and it -seemed all the harder as it was the first time that I had to work -incessantly. As the brothers offered me no more than eight dollars a -month, I thought that I should find better pay in Little Rock, so took -the two dollars that I had earned, bade them all a hearty farewell, and -went on my way in good spirits. - -Next morning I came to the most important lead mines of Missouri, not -far from Farmington, a pretty little town. The lead was laid in great -heaps on both sides of the road, and as it looked very like silver, it -was capable of making a strong impression on any one who possessed a -slightly excitable imagination. As my bullets were getting scarce, I -took a couple of pounds from one of the heaps, in order to cast a few in -the next house that I stopped at. All these mines are private property, -and the workmen carry on their excavations when they please, wherever -they expect to find ore, and are paid according to the quantity they -procure; if they find none, they receive nothing, and many poor fellows -have worked for weeks in vain. Their labors are carried on in the -simplest manner. A workman, or generally two together, come and offer -themselves; a certain space is given, and while one digs, the other -clears out the shaft; sometimes they find a vein of pure lead, in which -case they are very well paid. The whole place is so full of holes, that -it is very dangerous to go about at night. The proprietors have erected -smelting furnaces on the ground between the shafts, where the ore is -cast into pigs, and then it is forwarded to the Mississippi. - -I passed the following night in the house of an American family. The -owner had a herd of remarkably fine cattle, as well as a fine breed of -horses. Soon after I was seated in the warm chimney corner, I heard the -gallop of a horse. It stopped at the house, the door opened, and in -stepped a very pretty girl, with her little riding-whip in her hand, and -her color heightened by the sharp ride; she was received by all with a -warm welcome, and seemed to be the betrothed of one of the young men, -near whom she sat, and began to joke. - -Passing through Frederickstown, I reached Currant river, the boundary of -Missouri, on the 22nd of January; the water was so clear, that although -it was about fifteen feet deep where I passed, the smallest objects -could be distinctly seen at the bottom. - -[Illustration] - - - - -CHAPTER IV. - -ARKANSAS, AND “DOWN RIVER” TO NEW ORLEANS. - - Wild turkeys--Spring river--Traces of earlier inhabitants of North - America--An eagle--Quack-doctors in Arkansas--My unsuccessful - hunting-dog--Little Red river--German and Polish settlers--Hilger - and Turoski--Encampment of Indians--Their love for ardent - spirits--Little Rock--Engagement as stoker on board the - “Fox”--Unhealthiness of the stoker’s avocations--Quarrel with the - captain, and conclusion of the engagement--Night in the woods--A - panther--Bear hunt--Great Red river--Slave plantations--Cruelty of - the overseers towards the negroes--Large herd of deer--Capture of a - panther--Dangerous encounter with a bear--Excursion with an Indian - tribe--Their mode of life--Canoe travelling--The Mississippi--New - Orleans--Its appearance, and unhealthy situation. - - -I was now in Arkansas. Game seemed to abound. Flocks of wild turkeys -filled the forests as thick as partridges in Germany, and deer were -equally plentiful; in one day I saw several herds of ten or twelve head -each. On the 23rd I came to Spring river, so named from the crystalline -clearness of its waters. I had intended to continue my journey on the -following morning, but my talkative hostess, among other things, spoke -of her husband, an old Pennsylvanian, who understood German, and who -could give a great deal of information about Indian burial-places. The -chance of hearing any thing about the natives was a strong magnet to my -curiosity, so I decided to await his arrival, and, as I did not wish to -diminish unnecessarily my small stock of money, I assisted to gather in -the Indian corn, so as to earn my food. As my host arrived in the -evening, I had not long to wait. He informed me that there were a number -of sepulchral monuments on the banks of the Spring river, or in its -neighborhood, and spoke of gigantic bones and skeletons which had been -found there. When in Illinois, I had heard of such remains of a colossal -race of men, and among others of a human lower jaw, whose owner must -have been about nine feet high. He also said that he had found urns and -weapons in the graves; but he had none to show me, for these people have -no regard for any thing that does not offer some immediate prospect of -gain. - -On the banks of the neighboring White river, they had found bricks some -feet under the surface in several places, laid as if they had formed a -street or road, and my host, as well as several others, maintained that -there must have been a town there. - -There is a strong probability that, before the modern race of Indians, a -stronger and more civilized people must have inhabited North America, as -several ancient and magnificent buildings in Mexico also tend to prove. -If my host had had time to show me any of the mounds, I would have -devoted a day or two to their examination, but he was obliged to take -another journey on the following day, and I could not well await his -return. Perhaps some one else may find time to make excavations. - -On the following morning I set off again on my travels, and turned a -little out of my way to climb a rocky height, when an eagle suddenly -rose before me. I fired. For a minute or two he floated motionless in -the air, then, flapping his wings, he mounted higher and higher till I -could hardly distinguish him. I concluded that I must have missed him, -and was reloading, when he turned in the air, and fell dead to the -ground. He was a large bird, measuring seven feet from wing to wing. I -was pleased with my shot, as it was the first eagle I had killed. He was -of a dark-brown color, with white head and tail. In imitation of the -Indians, I ornamented my cap with one of his feathers. - -On the evening of the 27th of January, as I was occupied in breaking up -a deer that I had shot, a lad of about thirteen or fourteen, with a -fowling-piece on his shoulder, came to help me, and showed that he was -by no means an unskilled hand. We packed the two legs and the back in -the skin, and bore it between us to the abode of the youth, only a few -miles distant, where I decided on passing the night. I have met, in all -parts of America, with a number of very worthy, amiable people, as also -with some very bad characters: this is to be expected in a country with -such a mingled population; but here, in this solitude, I found a family -not to be surpassed in worth and amiable qualities in any part of the -world. An old man, with trembling hands, sat by the fire, and though -many winters had bleached his locks, his rosy cheeks showed that he was -still strong and hearty. Opposite sat a noble-looking matron, -considerably younger than her husband, but still of great age. By her -side was a young and pretty woman of the neighborhood, whose husband -had taken a journey to the north on business. Three stout, blooming -youths came in one after the other from shooting, bringing four wild -turkeys. - -I was already far enough advanced in English to be able to take part in -the conversation, the educated American being very indulgent to -foreigners in this respect. We sat talking together till about ten -o’clock. The young wife had just received a letter from her husband, -which she read through and through ten times over. She had been very -unfortunate in Arkansas. The doctors had killed three of her children, -and she herself was suffering from inflamed eyes through their -ignorance. The fact is, that there is no sufficient authority to control -their practice in these new States, and every quack who chooses may call -himself doctor. They prescribe calomel for every disorder, and decayed -teeth, inflamed eyes, spongy gums, and shattered health are the -universal consequences. - -My next night was passed at a Kentucky-man’s, who had settled here. He -had about a dozen dogs in his house, and he willingly made one over to -me, which, according to his account, was a capital dog for hunting wild -turkeys, running them to a tree, so that they could be more easily shot. - -Lounging along the road, I saw, at a good distance in front of me, a -buck quietly feeding right in the path, and, rather distrusting the good -education of my dog, I fastened him to a tree with my pocket-handkerchief -and the string of my powder-horn. The buck continued feeding -unsuspiciously, till I came within about eighty-five paces from him, -when, as I had the wind at my back, he scented my approach, and bounded -over a fallen tree to gain the thicket; my buck shot flew after him, but -I must have fired low, for at about 150 paces he began to limp with his -hind leg. By this time my dog must have thought that he had played the -mere spectator long enough, and having bitten through the powder-horn -string, he bounded after the deer with my handkerchief about his neck, -and neither deer, dog, nor handkerchief have I ever seen since. - -About sunset I arrived at a house where I purposed to pass the night, -and had placed my hand on the fence to jump over, when I saw the -mistress of the house sitting before the door, occupied with her -children’s heads in a way that suppressed all inclination to speak on my -part. I turned away, resolving rather to pass the night in the forest -than with such a family; yet this alternative was unnecessary, for -before dark I reached the dwelling of a man who had fought under -Washington in the war of independence; of course he was very old, but he -moved about with considerable vigor. - -On the following evening I came to the Little Red river. It was growing -dark, but a man was still at work on the other side. I called to him, -asking where I could pass. He answered: “You see that house there?” By -his accent I knew that he was a German, and asked again, in good Saxon: -“What house?” He replied again, in a mixture of German and English, and -in a tone of vexation at having forgotten his pure mother tongue: “Go a -little way down the river, and you will find a canoe.” We were already -good friends, although divided by the river. I found the canoe, paddled -over, and went to the nearest house, before which a number of people -were standing, and amongst them the owner, Von G., formerly an officer -in the army, now an industrious farmer, and zealous sportsman. He -possessed two slaves, and was well contented with his new condition. He -kindly offered me a bed in his house. In the evening the German came in, -whose acquaintance I had made on the banks of the river. He was a very -worthy, though rather an eccentric man. He must have been equally -pleased with me, for he insisted that I must not think of going away so -soon, but must come and pass some days with him in order to see the -country. Having nothing to hurry me, I willingly accepted his kind -invitation, and went on the following day to his house, where he made me -quite at home. He had a nice little wife, and five strong healthy -children. - -In the afternoon it began to rain. Travelling was not to be thought of; -even had I wished it, these kind people would not have let me go. We -chatted away till deep in the night, and it did me a world of good to be -able to converse again to my heart’s content in my mother tongue. My -host was a Rhenish Bavarian, named Hilger, a builder by trade, and by no -means uneducated. - -On the next day we had a visit from a neighbor, a man of about -thirty-five, with a short green shooting jacket, and a German rifle; but -his accent betrayed him to be no German. Hilger addressed him by the -name of Turoski. He was a Polish officer, who sought and found in -America security against the political persecutions that he would have -been exposed to in Europe. He was unmarried, and a little ten-year-old -daughter of Hilger’s minded his house. This child was often alone for -days and nights together in Turoski’s log-house, miles away from other -habitations; yet she cared nothing whether it was the storm or the -wolves that howled round the hut. - -After a short conversation, Turoski proposed that I should come and stay -with him. I passed some very agreeable days with these estimable men, -sometimes with one, sometimes with the other. To give my reader an idea -of the bachelor-life of an American backwoodsman, I will describe one of -the nights that I passed at Turoski’s. Hilger’s daughter had gone home -to visit her parents, who lived three miles off, and we two were alone. -The Pole’s dwelling was nothing but a simple rough log-house, without -any window, and all the chinks between the logs were left open, probably -to admit fresh air. Two beds, a table, a couple of chairs, one of them -with arms, some iron saucepans, three plates, two tin pots, one saucer, -several knives, and a coffee-mill, formed the whole of his furniture and -kitchen utensils. A smaller building near the house contained the store -of meat for the winter. There was a field of four or five acres close to -the house, and another about a quarter of a mile off on the river. He -had some good horses, a great many pigs, quantities of fowls, and -several milch cows. - -Being deeply interested in our conversation, we forgot to prepare any -supper, and it was not till the cold made itself felt that we went to -bed. It may have been about half-past twelve, when Turoski woke up, and -swore by all the saints, that he could lie no longer in bed for -ravenous hunger, and that he must have something to eat, even if it were -a piece of raw meat. I laughed, and told him to draw his hunger-belt -tighter, but he jumped up and gave me no more rest. We made up the fire, -which was nearly burnt out, and then held a council as to what we should -cook. We had shot nothing, the bread was all gone, and we had eaten our -last bit of pork for dinner. What was to be done? Turoski decided the -point. The Indian corn of last harvest was in a small building in a -field by the river; I was to go and fetch an armful, while he would -prepare something in the mean time. The night was dark as pitch; I was -often obliged to feel with my feet for the path like a blind man, that I -might not lose myself in the forest. When, in the course of half an -hour, I returned with the maize, Turoski had killed one of the fowls -that were roosting on a low tree, plunged it in hot water, and while he -cleaned it I fried the corn; then, while the fowl was being grilled, I -ground the corn in the coffee-mill, which by no means reduced it to the -consistence of flour. I moistened the grist with water, added a little -salt, made a cake of it about three-quarters of an inch thick, and set -it in a saucepan cover to bake. So far so good; but I wanted a couple of -eggs. There was a kind of shed attached to the house, in which leaves of -Indian corn, plucked green, and then dried, were kept as fodder, and -here the hens came to lay their eggs. Turoski crept in, and feeling -about, soon came to a nest with five, of which he brought away only two, -having broken the others in his hurry. Coffee was then made, and we had -a very good supper, or rather breakfast, for it was now past two -o’clock. But we were not yet to repose in safety; the monster log of -hickory, that we had laid on the hearth, flared up and set fire to the -chimney: Turoski mounted on the roof, while I handed him some buckets of -water, and the fire was soon extinguished. At last we got to sleep, and -remained so till the sun was high in the heavens. - -My unquiet spirit drove me forth again on the morning of the 7th of -February. I took a warm farewell of these kind people, and went in a -south-west direction through the forest, hoping soon to reach the high -road. The sun disappeared behind dark clouds, but thinking I was sure of -my way, I walked quickly on. Who could paint my astonishment at finding -myself, after two hours’ walking, in front of the very house I had -started from! This was vexatious, but I slipped off again into the -forest without being perceived, took out my compass, and made a straight -course. - -In the evening I shot a deer, but was obliged to leave the greater -portion of it, as it was too heavy to carry. Long after sunset on the -9th I arrived on the Arkansas river; the lights of Little Rock shone -from the opposite bank, but a strange fantastic scene presented itself -on this side of the river, on which I stared with astonishment. An -Indian tribe had pitched their tents close to the banks of the river. A -number of large crackling fires, formed of whole trunks of dry fallen -trees, which lay about in abundance, offering good shelter against the -wind; over the fires were kettles with large pieces of venison, bear, -squirrels, raccoons, opossums, wild-cats, and whatever else the fortune -of the chase had given them. Here young men were occupied securing the -horses to some of the fallen trees, and supplying them with fodder; -there lay others, overcome by the firewater, singing their national -songs with a mournful and heavy tongue. I stood for a long time watching -the animated scene. - -A tall powerful Indian, decked out with glass beads and silver -ornaments, came staggering towards me, with an empty bottle in his left -hand and a handsome rifle in his right, and, holding them both towards -me, gave me to understand that he would give me the rifle if I would -fill his bottle. The dealers in spirituous liquors are subject to a -heavy fine if they sell any to soldiers, Indians, or negroes. The poor -Indians have fallen so low, and become so degraded by the base -speculations of the pale faces, that they will give all they most value, -to procure the body and soul-destroying spirits. Though I had but little -money left, only twelve cents, I declined the exchange; he turned -sorrowfully away, probably to offer the advantageous bargain to some one -else, in which case I thought it best to indulge the poor savage, and -save him his handsome rifle; I took the bottle out of his hand, filled -it, and gave it back to him. On my refusing to accept his rifle, he laid -hold of me, and dragged me almost forcibly to his fire, obliged me to -drink with him, to smoke out of his pipe, and eat a large slice of -venison, while his wife and three children sat in the tent staring with -surprise at the stranger. He then stood up, and in his harmonious -language related a long history to me and to some sons of the forest who -had assembled round us, and of which I did not understand a word. At -last as the noise became annoying, I stole away quietly to seek a berth -for the night. - -When I came again to the ferry on the following morning, the encampment -was broken up, and the Indians had embarked on board a steamer, which -was to carry them further west. I crossed by the ferry, and had now no -longer any cause to be anxious about spending too much money, having -paid away my last twelve cents. Rarely has a traveller entered a strange -town with so light a purse. My situation in such a place was not at all -enviable. The soles of my boots had disappeared, and then the feet of my -stockings, so that latterly I had gone barefoot on the frozen ground. -Yet my self-confidence and courage did not fail me. My first object was -to find a house where I could pass the night, my second to get my boots -repaired: I found board and lodging at a German wheelwright’s, named -Spranger, for three dollars a week, and although with all my searching I -could not find three cents in my pockets, I agreed to the bargain, -giving my gun in pawn; then taking my hunting-knife I hastened to a -shoemaker’s, who asked two and a half dollars to re-sole my boots, and -accepted my knife as a pledge, lending me a pair of shoes to wear till -the boots should be finished. When this was all arranged, I looked about -for work, and took many a walk in vain. - -On the second day, having nothing else to do, I went with Spranger to -Von Seckendorf’s farm to saw down some trees that S. required for his -business. In Little Rock many had referred me to a Mr. Fisher, who was -well known among the Germans, and who at all events would give me work. -He had just finished a large frame house, and wanted to make some -addition to it. I went to every door in the building to seek some one -who could tell me where to find him, but all was as quiet as the grave. -I then went to a smaller building, and knocked. As no one answered, -after knocking three times, I pushed open the door, and entered. In one -corner of a miserable room I found an empty bedstead, with broken legs; -carpenter’s tools lay on the table and floor, and a coffin stood in -another corner. At the foot of the bed, on the bare earth, lay a man, -with his head on one of the broken legs of the bedstead; his right arm -was under his head, the left lay across his face, so that I could only -see the dark hair; the hands were spotted red and black, I thought from -the paint of the coffin. I asked him if he knew where Mr. Fisher was. He -gave no answer: I supposed him to be asleep, and he appeared to be ill. -I went out again quite quietly, and tried some other doors; but they -were all locked, and not a soul to be seen. I went back again to the -sleeper, and although I called loudly, and shook him by the shoulder, I -could get no answer, and came away much vexed. At length, after a great -deal of trouble, I found Mr. Fisher, and had my trouble for my pains, -for he had no work to give me. In the course of conversation, I inquired -about the man in the hut, and was told that he had died the day before -of smallpox: my blood ran cold at the words. The doctor had stated the -nature of his disease, and desired that nobody should go near him; and -as the man was poor, without a cent in the world, he had shut the door, -and never been near him again. The poor fellow had been left to himself -for three days, without even a drink of water, and at last had died -miserably on the floor. Little Rock is a vile, detestable place in this -respect, and the boatmen on the Mississippi have good reason when they -sing-- - - “Little Rock in Arkansaw, - The d----dest place I ever saw.” - -Yet several Germans inhabit the town and neighborhood. - -As nothing in the way of work was to be found in the town, I went to the -river to try and get something to do on board a steamer. The steamers -“Fox” and “Harp” were moored side by side. I went first on board the -“Fox,” and was engaged as fireman, at thirty dollars a month. In an hour -the boat started. I was quite contented, and had no trouble with my -luggage. We ran down the Arkansas to its mouth, then up the Mississippi -to Memphis, and back again to Little Rock. The work of a fireman is as -hard as any in the world; though he has only four hours in the day and -four in the night to keep up the fires, yet the heat of the boilers, the -exposure to the cutting cold night air when in deep perspiration, the -quantity of brandy he drinks to prevent falling sick, the icy cold water -poured into the burning throat, must, sooner or later, destroy the -soundest and strongest constitution. How I, unaccustomed to such work, -managed to stand it, has often surprised me. - -In addition, there was the dangerous work of carrying wood, particularly -in dark and wet nights. One has to carry logs of four or five feet in -length, six or seven at a time, down a steep, slippery bank, sometimes -fifteen or twenty feet in height when the water is low, and then to -cross a narrow, tottering plank, frequently covered with ice, when a -single false step would precipitate the unfortunate fireman into the -rapid deep stream, an accident which indeed happened to me another time -in the Mississippi. It is altogether a miserable life, offering, -moreover, a prospect of being blown up, no uncommon misfortune, thanks -to the rashness of the American engineers. - -I carried on this work for some time, till the desertion of the cook at -Memphis caused a vacancy in that department. Just as the boat was about -to start, I offered myself for the place, and was accepted, although I -knew nothing more than how to boil a kettle; yet I very soon learned as -much as was necessary. - -When I returned to Little Rock I released my gun and hunting-knife. The -next voyage was to the mouth of the Arkansas and back. The rude coarse -life among the lowest class of people soon disgusted me, and, in -addition to this, I had incurred the enmity of the captain, who disliked -me, probably only because I was a German. Yet he could not do without -me; but as I could not find a substitute, I was obliged to make another -voyage, and this time up the river. I already had an idea how my service -would terminate, and having my game-bag packed, and my gun, -hunting-knife, and a tomahawk that I had purchased, all at hand, I was -prepared for any thing that might happen. - -Two days after our departure, the captain came down to me as I was in -the act of giving the remains of a meal to a poor old woman, who was on -her way to join her children, but who had not wherewithal to pay her -passage. An old Pennsylvanian had informed me that the captain had been -abusing me. This, and the question, “Who gave me permission to give away -the provisions?” put me in a rage, and I asked him, rudely, in return, -“If he would rather that I should throw them overboard?” The “yes” was -hardly out of his mouth, when plate and food were floating in the -Arkansas. He gave vent to his rage by springing on me, and seizing me by -the breast; in return I sent him sprawling against the opposite side. He -was quickly up again, and snatching up a piece of broken hand-spike, -made a desperate blow at me, which I luckily avoided. My fury now knew -no bounds; I grasped his throat, and was dragging him to the side to -throw him overboard, when his cries brought the engineer and boatswain -to the rescue. One of them pulled the captain away by his legs, while -the other took me by the shoulders, and then both carried the captain, -whose head was bleeding severely, into the cabin. I was ordered to go -directly to the book-keeper, received my pay, the steamer stopped, I was -landed on the bank, the boat returned on board, and I found myself in -quite a new and extraordinary position. - -All around me was a solitary wilderness--the river behind me, the ground -frozen hard, and covered with a thin sheet of snow--a cold north wind -blowing through the leafless branches. I felt in my pocket for my fire -apparatus--it was all wet; not a single grain of powder in my -powder-horn, and only one barrel loaded. I thought it would never do to -discharge my gun for the sake of lighting a fire, and remain unarmed in -the wilderness. I cleared away the snow from under a tree, lay down, and -tried to sleep; but the wind was too sharp, the cold insupportable, and -I was afraid of being frozen. Driven to extremity, I discharged my gun -against the root of a tree, lighted a match by the burning wadding, -collected dry grass and wood, and in a minute or two had a glorious -fire. - -Although I heard the howls of several wolves, I did not mind them, but -enjoyed a sound sleep. Certainly, on the following morning, I trudged on -rather out of spirits, with no powder, and a very hungry stomach. - -I followed the direction of the river downwards, in hopes of finding a -house. After I had gone some distance, I saw an old, half-sunken canoe. -I baled out the water with my cap and found that she was still -serviceable. My former intentions of visiting Texas returned in full -force; I decided on crossing to the other side to look for a house, and -procure food and powder, and resolved then to strike off in a south-west -direction in search of the route to Texas. - -I had hardly gained the opposite bank when I discovered a large flock of -wild turkeys. I took aim, and pulled the trigger, forgetting that I had -not loaded: they took to the trees on my approach, and I suffered the -tortures of Tantalus at the sight; but there was no help for it, and I -was obliged to pass on. As it always happens in such cases, I saw -quantities of game this day. - -Cold and cloudy descended the night, bringing with it the dreaded north -wind; I was obliged to lie down without a fire. In order to avoid the -bears and panthers, I had climbed up a tree, but the wind was too sharp -to make such an airy perch endurable. At length I found a hollow tree, -crept in, covered my feet with my game-bag, placed my gun on my left -side, and, with my knife in my right hand, I passed one of the most -uncomfortable nights of my life. I heard the howling of the wolves, and -once the roar of a panther in the distance; but nothing came to disturb -me, and the bright morning sun saw me early on the march, for my couch -was not inviting enough to detain me. At length, what music to my ears! -the crow of a cock and bark of a dog announced the neighborhood of a -farm. I soon perceived the thin, blue smoke of a chimney ascending into -the beautiful clear sky, and, with a quickened pace made towards it, -hoping soon to refresh both body and soul. - -The good people gave me such a hospitable reception, and placed so much -on the table, that, notwithstanding my fearful appetite, there was a -great deal more than I could eat. Fortunately, the farmer had a stock of -gunpowder, and filled my powder-horn for a quarter of a dollar. - -As I was about to depart, he asked if I would not like to join a -shooting party; several of his neighbors were coming this morning to -search a thicket not far from his house, where they expected to find a -bear which had robbed him of many of his pigs. I did not long hesitate, -cleaned my gun, loaded the left hand barrel with ball and the right with -buck-shot, and so was ready for any thing. We had not long to wait, and -all mounted on horseback. We soon arrived at the spot, and rode round -and round it; it was the thickly overgrown bed of a former spring. -Suddenly the dogs gave tongue, and immediately afterwards the bear -started out of his hiding-place. Eager as we were we could only follow -him slowly, on account of the thick underwood; so we hobbled the horses’ -fore-legs, and pressed forward on foot. - -One of the party soon proclaimed that, judging by the bark of the dogs, -the bear must have climbed up a tree. Such proved to be the case, and we -had hardly discovered him, when I and one of the farmers fired: both -balls had taken effect, but a dull cry was the only consequence: two -others of the party coming up, fired. He was mortally wounded, drew -himself together, and hung by one paw from the tree; as I hit him on the -paw with my buck-shot, he fell, and died under the bites of the dogs, -who threw themselves furiously on him. His flesh was savory and tender, -but he was not so fat as was expected. I remained the night with these -kind people, and set off again on the following morning. - -Without any thing further worth noticing, I came, on the 15th March, to -the bank of the Great Red river, the boundary between the United States -and Texas. A farmer who had a canoe set me over the river, and, -following a well-trodden path on the other side, I came to a large slave -plantation. The overseer, who directed the labors of the negroes, said -at first that he had no room for me to sleep in; but as there was no -other house far and wide where I could find shelter, he at last agreed, -and I found a sumptuous supper and comfortable bed. - -The land near the river was very swampy, and overgrown with thick canes, -but the wood became more open and the ground dryer as I left the river. -On the evening of the third day, I again slept at a plantation, and this -was the last night I passed in a house for some time to come. The -overseer lived in a block-house, and all around stood the smaller huts -of the slaves, one for each family. During the hours of labor, he -carried a heavy whip to keep the blacks in order; yet he did not seem to -feel quite safe amongst these poor, ill-treated people, for he had a -pair of pistols in his saddle holsters. - -An overseer once assured me that the whip was the best doctor for the -slaves, and that when any one of them fell sick, he was flogged till he -was well again. It might sometimes happen that a poor negro pretended to -be sick to get a day or two’s rest; but how often must the really sick -slave be most atrociously treated by the inhuman overseer! - -From these quarters I marched along fresh and in good spirits into the -forest, which already began to look green. The birds sang so sweetly on -the branches, that my heart was joyful and mournful at the same time; I -longed in vain for a companion, with whom I could exchange thoughts. A -shot echoed from the plantation, and innumerable wild geese rose from -the cotton-fields behind me; with a deafening noise they formed their -usual triangle, and flew all in the same direction. - -Luckily for me, I had in my bag a couple of wild ducks that I had killed -and roasted the day before. The forest was mortally dull, and the march -began to grow rather tedious, for my rambles in the north were still -fresh in my memory. I passed the night very pleasantly by a fire, while -my hunger took the second duck into consideration. - -Towards noon I came to the little river Sulphurfork, which I was obliged -to wade through, after many vain attempts to find a shallow place, the -water coming up to my chest. I began to despair of getting any thing to -eat, and, being thoroughly wet, I resolved to come soon to a halt, and -dry myself by a fire, when all at once I saw about fifty deer, within -shot, all quietly feeding, and taking no notice of me. For an instant I -stood petrified; then every fibre in my body beat and trembled with -delight. The suddenness of the sight had so excited me that I could not -take aim, and I was obliged to wait to collect myself. It was a glorious -sight, such a number of these noble animals together; I counted -fifty-seven, and derived particular pleasure from the antics of two -fawns, which made the most comical bounds, and came very near me without -any suspicion. Regret to kill such a beautiful innocent creature -withheld my hand for some time, but hunger was not to be cajoled,--I -fired, and one of them fell without a cry. The effect of the report upon -the herd was quite ludicrous,--each of the hitherto unsuspicious animals -became an image of attention, then fled with immense bounds towards the -thicket. As I did not move they stopped again, and began to feed, but -not without frequently raising their heads to listen. The impression -which the fall of his playfellow had produced on the other fawn was very -different. Far from flying, he came nearer, smelt the poor animal as if -he thought it was play, setting his fore-foot several times on the body -of his comrade as if to induce him to get up. I had the other barrel -still loaded, but thought it would be like murder to injure a hair of -the little creature. - -As I stepped out from the bushes, the fawn stared at me with -astonishment in his large clear eyes; probably he had never seen a man -before. He then flew like the wind towards his dam, but stopping now and -then as if he expected his comrade. I quickly made a fire on the spot to -roast my game, putting the greater part of the back and the brisket on -sticks before the fire with hollow bark underneath to catch the dripping -for basting; and a delicious meal was very soon the result of this -simple proceeding. - -Next day, as I was going quietly along through forest and prairie, -looking out right and left for game or amusement, I caught sight of -something in a large oak. Fixing my eyes steadily on it, and coming -closer, I recognized the glowing eyes of a panther crouched on a bough, -and seemingly ready to spring. I gave him both barrels, one after the -other, when he fell from the tree, and died with a fearful howl. He was -a large handsome beast, of an ashy gray color, and measuring from seven -to eight feet from the nose to the end of the tail. - -It was well that I had venison in my game-bag, for the panther would -have been a tough morsel. I dragged the rather heavy skin with me till -the evening, and slept soundly on it for my trouble. A damp fog came on -towards morning, which soon turned to fine penetrating rain, seeming to -foretell a disagreeable day; but as I had enjoyed beautiful weather in -general, I could not complain. The sky became quite dark, the rain fell -heavier, and I was soon wet through. I left the panther skin where I had -slept, so that I had no heavy burden to carry. I found my stomach -beginning to loathe the quantity of animal food that was put into it, -and to long for bread, but I was obliged to divert my thoughts from the -subject, and the last remains of the venison were discreetly devoured. -Meantime I had killed a turkey, so that at all events I had something in -store. - -My plan hitherto had been to push on to the nearest eastern settlement; -but the road was too long and tedious, so I turned southwards, in order -afterwards to proceed eastward towards Louisiana and the Red river. The -constant rain made it impossible to light a fire this evening, and I -passed a miserable night, for though I tried to make a shelter of pieces -of bark, I could not manage it; however, the night came at last to an -end, and cold, cross, and hungry as a lion, I went along with only a -plucked turkey in my bag. - -About noon my day’s journey was brought to an unexpected end by a river -that had overflowed its banks. The rain had ceased, so that, with better -fortune than yesterday, I succeeded in making a fire, and my turkey, -divided into four quarters, was soon in front of it. Now, comfortably -stretched before my fire, I considered whether I should cross the river; -I had no sort of business on the other side, and it seemed absurd to -swim across for nothing--so I settled on quitting Texas, and returning -to the United States. If I had a friend with me I could have gone on to -the shores of the Pacific, but I had no mind to do it alone. When I had -finished my repast, I got up and made my way in an E. S. E. direction. - -As the rain had left off, I made up to-night for the wakefulness of the -last; when I awoke the fire had burnt out, and the sun was shining -through the bursting buds of the trees. I had a good wash in a -neighboring spring, and felt like a giant refreshed. - -After taking my frugal breakfast, the remains of yesterday’s meal, I -drew more towards the east, in order the sooner to fall in with human -beings, to eat bread, and taste salt. I had occasionally used gunpowder -instead of salt, but my store of powder was not sufficient for such a -luxury, and it was better to be without salt than without powder. - -Gun on shoulder, I trudged slowly and surely on, over hill and dale, -through prairies and forest streams, towards the sun-rising, taking -sharp notice of all around. While thus proceeding, wrapped in my -thoughts, suddenly something rustled in a bush in front of me, and a -bear started out and took to flight. My ball was soon in his interior; -on being hit he stopped and looked round at me in a fury. Expecting -nothing less than an attack, I quietly cocked the other barrel; but his -intentions of attacking me seemed to pass off, and he crept into a -thicket instead. I quickly loaded with ball and followed him: as I -approached he retreated slowly, probably suffering from his wound: as -soon as I got a clear view of his head, I fired again, but only grazed -his skull. As I ran towards him his fury increased, and he turned to -meet me; on taking aim with my second barrel at about thirty paces, it -missed fire. With open jaws and ears laid back, he rushed towards me; -in this mortal danger, I preserved my presence of mind. Dropping my gun, -and drawing my knife, I sprang back a couple of paces behind a small -tree; at this moment the bear was only a few feet from me. As he rose on -his hind legs to embrace me, he was almost as tall as I, and his fiery -eyes and long teeth had nothing very attractive; but he was not destined -to know the taste of my flesh. - -I was quite collected, feeling sure that one or the other must die. The -moment he tried to grasp me, I thrust my long double-edged hunting knife -into the yawning abyss of his jaws, and boring it into his brain, I -brought him to the ground. I did not then know better, but I ought to -have sprung back after wounding him, and then I should have escaped -unhurt. As it was, he dragged away my coat in falling, and tore my arm -slightly. I thanked God that it was no worse. There I sat on the sweet -smelling heath, with my coat all in rags, and no other to put on. To -assuage my sorrow, I cut a large steak from the bear, which tasted -particularly good after my severe exertions. I carried away the skin. In -the evening I fell in with a herd of deer, but did not fire at them, as -I was well provided with meat. - -On the following evening I heard a shot. The sound ran through me like -an electric shock. There were, then, other people in this wilderness, -and not very far off, for the shooter must be on the other side of the -nearest hill. I turned rapidly in the direction whence the sound came, -and had hardly gained the crest of the hill, when a romantic and -variegated scene spread itself before my eyes. - -It was an Indian camp, and all were occupied in pitching their tents, -and preparing for the night. Here, were some cutting tent-poles with -their tomahawks; there, women collecting firewood for cooking; men -securing the horses by hobbling their fore-legs; another skinning a -deer. In short, it was life in the wilds in highest force. I should -never have tired of looking at these noble muscular figures, their faces -marked with various ochres, their heads adorned with feathers, and their -bright-colored dresses. - -I was not long allowed to remain a spectator, for the dogs barked and -ran at me. Breaking off a green bough, I went with it to the camp. The -Indians called off the dogs, and all eyes were now directed towards the -stranger. Going up to a group of young men, who were stretching a -deer-skin, I asked if any of them spoke English, and was directed to an -elderly man, who was sitting smoking under a tree and watching me. I -told him that I was a traveller, that I wished to return to the banks of -the Red river, and asked if I could pass the night in his camp. A -considerable group of young men had in the mean time assembled round us. -At length the old man asked--“Are white men so scarce that you come -alone into the wilderness?” I replied that I had only come for the sake -of shooting, and now wished to return. Instead of an answer, he silently -gave me his pipe, out of which I took a few whiffs, and then handed it -to one of the Indians standing near me. He did the same, and returned it -to the chief. I now sat down beside him. He asked a great many -questions, amongst others, how I had torn my coat so badly? Whereupon I -related my affair with the bear. He smiled, and translated my account -to the others, who also showed interest in my adventure. - -The chief then told me that it was highly dangerous for any one unused -to these encounters to risk such a fight, and that it was necessary to -spring quickly back after the thrust, the dying bear having sometimes -succeeded in killing his enemy. He took particular notice of my -double-barrelled gun and hunting-knife, and said that he had never -before seen two barrels joined together. He spoke English better than I -did, and, what was very agreeable, he spoke slowly. - -The Indians belonged to the Choctaw tribe, and were come out of Arkansas -in search of game. As night came on, fires were burning all around us, -and the women, among whom were some beautiful figures, cooked the -suppers, while the men quietly smoked their pipes. Finding the Indian -fashion of staring at the fire rather tedious, I made several attempts -to engage the chief in conversation, but only received short answers, so -that at last there was nothing left for it but to play the Indian, and -maintain a dignified silence. - -At length we retired to rest. I slept on a bear-skin beside the fire, in -front of the chief’s tent. Before sunrise, I was awakened by the noise -and songs of the Indians, who were preparing for a shooting excursion. I -jumped up, and was getting ready to join them, but soon remembered that, -with my ragged coat, I could not venture among the thorns;--I should -have been caught every moment. I showed it to one of the young men, he -immediately ran off, and soon returned with a sort of coat, or rather -hunting-shirt, made out of a blanket. He made signs that he would sell -it to me, and was delighted to receive a dollar for it, with the rags of -my green coat into the bargain. For a second dollar I obtained his -embroidered belt, and was now quite set up again. Resolving to be quite -an Indian for the time, I left my game-bag in the camp. - -We set off, sixteen in number, all on foot, some of the Indians with -firearms, others with bows and arrows, with which they can hit their -mark at a great distance. I attached myself to one of the young men with -a bow and arrows, and, as we could not understand each other’s language, -we proceeded in silence. Each of us had provisions, which we ate as we -went along. It may have been about noon when we saw a herd of deer. My -companion went round to gain the wind of them, and shot a couple with -his unerring arrows. Away flew the others in headlong fright, coming -directly towards me, in such blind haste, that the leader of the herd, a -fat buck of eleven, was little more than ten paces off, when he -discovered me. My ball pierced his heart, and he fell without a cry. The -rest fled in all directions. - -We were obliged to return to the camp for horses to carry our booty. My -companion started off in a straight line for the camp, which I should -never have been able to find again. It was only a few miles distant, -although I thought it must be at least half a day’s journey behind us. -On arriving at the camp, we each mounted on horseback, and rode off at a -quick trot to the place where our game lay, which we found without -difficulty, the Indian having marked several trees with his tomahawk as -we returned. The last prize we came to was my buck, and on him we saw a -wild-cat preparing to enjoy itself. The Indian rushed forward, and the -cat, which did not perceive him till too late, flew up a tree, whence an -arrow from the sure hand of my companion soon brought it to the ground. -It was of a gray color, and larger than the domestic cat. When these -animals are irritated they will attack men: my comrade carried off the -skin. - -We rode back with our booty to the camp, and were received with cheers. -The party all returned one after the other, most of them with game, one -with an immense bear that he had killed, the largest I had yet seen. - -While cooking was going on, the young men danced and sang, the women -taking no part in their amusements, but quietly continuing their -occupations. - -On the following morning the chief said that he had set a wolf-trap, and -we went to see if any thing had been caught. As there was plenty of food -in the camp, we all went together, except three, who, having killed -nothing yesterday, set off to try their luck again to-day. We took four -large strong dogs with us, and followed the chief. With a triumphant -smile he showed me where he had set the trap, and near it a trace of -blood; it was shown to the dogs, and they followed it up in full cry. - -After running about a mile, they barked louder and louder. We hurried on -as fast as we could, and found the wolf at his last gasp under the -furious attack of the dogs. They were immediately called off, and -appeared to have suffered considerably, particularly one, whose ear the -wolf, a great black beast, had bitten quite away. - -These traps are set with a bait, but not fastened, for if the wolf is -caught, and the trap should be immovable, he would bite off his own leg -sooner than let himself be taken. So the trap is only fastened by a -chain to an iron clog with four hooks; as soon as the wolf finds himself -caught, he attempts to hurry away with the trap, but is detained every -moment by the hooks catching in the roots and bushes; yet he manages to -get clear again, and has been known to take the iron clog in his -mouth--but the trap still remains a hindrance, and he is easily traced. - -By this time I had enjoyed Indian life long enough, and wished myself -back again in more civilized society; yet I remained another day with -them, during which we shot at a mark with bows and arrows, and I caused -many a smile among the Indians, as I shot a foot wide of the mark, which -they seldom missed. We next threw tomahawks at a tree, and in this -practice I was rather more successful. - -On the following morning I resumed my journey to the east, provided with -venison and coarse salt, and as I saw the last Indians disappear behind -the trees, it seemed as if I was now for the first time alone in the -forest; but I soon became reaccustomed to my former life, and slept -again this night, as well as a man can sleep, on grass and fragrant -moss. - -Next day I came to the Sabine, seeking in vain for a ford; and as the -river was considerably swelled, and seemed wider and deeper further -south, there was nothing for it but a swim. I made a small raft, which -I bound together with creepers, and securing my gun, game-bag, knife, -tomahawk, and powder-horn on the top of it, I pushed it before me to the -opposite bank. - -On the 30th of January, as I arrived at the Great Red river, I saw a -farm-house, and the crow of a cock broke on my ear as the music of the -spheres. But the house was on the other side of the broad and swollen -stream, which rolled along its dirty red waves at a fearful rate. In -vain I shouted and roared myself hoarse; a shot had no better effect. I -had made up my mind to hide my gun and other things in the bush, and -swim over, when a second shot roused the farmer’s attention. He came to -the bank, and seeing some one calling and beckoning on the opposite -side, he cast off his canoe, and coming across, was not a little -astonished at finding me alone. - -I received a hearty welcome from his family, who were exceedingly amused -at the appetite with which I made the bread disappear, and at my -enjoyment of the coffee. - -As I did not wish to remain here long, I soon came to an agreement with -the farmer about the sale of his canoe; he let me have it for four -dollars, throwing a smoked leg of venison, a roast turkey, and some -loaves of maize bread into the bargain. - -I was soon afloat in this hollowed trunk, drifting rapidly down the -stream, which carried gigantic trees along with it. The light craft -dashed forward like an arrow under the strokes of my paddle, so that, -according to a reckoning made afterwards, I must have gone about 400 -miles in five days. It was not till late in the night that I ran in -among the reeds, and slept quietly in my own property. - -[Illustration: THE ALLIGATOR.] - -On the day after my departure, I fell in with a number of planks; they -had probably been washed away from some village on the banks. They had -floated against a tree, that was stuck fast in the bed of the river. -Intending to take them with me, in the hope of making something by their -sale, I paddled to the tree, and in attempting to secure the planks I -overreached myself; the current carried away the canoe from under me, -and in an instant I was in the water, holding on to the bough of the -tree, and close to an alligator. Luckily the beast was as much afraid of -me as I of him, and he disappeared under the water. I quickly swung -myself on the bough to reach my canoe, but too late, it was already in -the full strength of the current, leaving me hanging on the waving -bough, with canoe, gun, powder, and all that I possessed, a prey to the -waves. I saw perfectly well at once that I must either regain my canoe -or perish miserably of starvation, so I let go the bough, and swam with -all my might towards the fugitive. It cost a quarter of an hour’s -desperate exertion before I reached it, and then I had to push her to -the bank, in order to get on board, for any attempt to do so in the -middle of the stream would have upset her. In regaining the canoe I had -saved my life. - -When my store of provisions was exhausted I shot wild-fowl, and got them -cooked at the nearest plantation, for now, as I approached Louisiana, -the land was more occupied. - -Several hundred miles above its junction with the Mississippi, the Great -Red river is blocked up by numbers of trees that have been carried down -and become fixed, and although the United States Government has caused -a passage for steamers to be cut through them, yet I was advised not to -attempt it with my canoe, because the current ran through it with such -force, that the least obstacle I might encounter would infallibly -overset the canoe. I was therefore obliged to traverse two lakes, called -Clear Lake and Soda Lake, which are connected with the river above and -below the Raft, as the collection of matted trees is called. - -I saw a great number of alligators sunning themselves on the warm sands. -I shot ten or eleven of them, but could never prevail on myself to touch -them. They were from three to twelve feet long, and sometimes even -eighteen feet. Not far from the mouth of the river, on the fifth day, -just about dusk, seeing something white in the water ahead of me, I -paddled to it, and laid hold of it, but drew my hand back with a -shudder, and the blood ran cold in my veins; it was a corpse--the naked -white back alone floated above the surface, head, arms, and legs hanging -down; a wound several inches long was visible on the left side, just -under the ribs. I paddled hastily away in sickening disgust, and left -the horrid object behind me. - -On the following morning I entered the Mississippi, the excessively -dirty “Father of Waters.” The scenery assumed a more tropical character, -and the long waving moss hanging from the gigantic trees gave it a -peculiarly strange aspect. After entering this magnificent river I took -on board fresh provender, not far from the junction, and directed my -course towards that “New Orleans,” now some 240 miles distant, about -which I had heard so much. But on the second day, when I was still some -hundred miles from it, a little above Baton Rouge, it came on to blow -fresh, and the wind caused such a swell in the river, that I could no -longer keep my little craft free of water; indeed it was not without -great effort and difficulty that I was able to reach the shore. - -There was a farm near the place where I landed, whose owner had a -quantity of wood for sale, ready cut, and piled up for the use of -steamers. A steamer, bound for New Orleans, was in the act of wooding at -the time. It would have been folly to have attempted to continue the -voyage in such a swell in so frail a craft as mine, and as I found the -farmer willing to buy her we soon agreed as to terms. I transferred my -effects to the steamer, and late on the same evening arrived at New -Orleans. - -For the night I slept on board, but early the next morning went to a -German tavern to refresh myself after all the hardships I had undergone, -and to sleep in a regular bed. Oh, how comfortably I stretched myself on -the soft mattress! I got up very early to have a look at the place, -having no wish to show myself in the costume of a savage when the -streets were thronged. For nine months my hair had been uncut, and -during five no razor had approached my chin; then what with my old -woollen hunting-shirt, my embroidered belt, and the high waterproof -boots, which had faithfully held out to the last, people would have -thought me more like a scarecrow than a human being: my first visit was -to a barber. - -I had heard too much boasting and bragging about New Orleans, not to be -disappointed in my expectations. I found it by no means so splendidly or -so tastefully built as was asserted, and as I walked along the narrow -streets my thoughts wandered to the far more agreeable Cincinnati. The -only handsome building in New Orleans, and one without a parallel, is -the St. Charles’ Hotel, which certainly is very magnificent. - -It is no wonder that the air of New Orleans should be generally so -unhealthy, and in autumn quite pestilential, for the town is built in a -complete swamp, and required to be protected by a dam from being -submerged by the river. It certainly was never intended by nature for -the abode of man; at most it is fitted for alligators, frogs, and -mosquitoes. It is the churchyard of the United States. - -[Illustration] - - - - -CHAPTER V. - -CINCINNATI--A FARMER’S LIFE IN THE WOODS. - - Scenery around New Orleans--Arrangements of American - steamers--Cincinnati and its reputation--Number of German - inhabitants--Situation of the town--Religious absurdities; the girl - “possessed with a devil”--Dangers of American steam navigation--The - “Mississippi”--Rambles in the woods--Crawfish--Mosquitoes--Picnic - in the woods--Poisonous plants--Residence with a backwoodsman, and - farming operations--Wild honey--Cattle keeping--Turkeys’ eggs--A - Methodist meeting--Attack of ague--Our farming operations. - - -I found letters and money awaiting me here, which came very opportunely, -as I had expended nearly all I had gained. I now looked out for a -passage to Cincinnati; the steamer “Chillicothe” was to start for that -place at ten the next day. I paid five dollars for 1,500 miles. A -cheaper voyage is almost impossible. We did not start till evening. - -On ascending the river from New Orleans, the scenery is quite -enchanting. There is a succession of plantations, with country-houses -embosomed in orange and pomegranate trees, &c., while the regular rows -of negro cottages give a peculiar character to the whole. - -The Mississippi steamers are light and sharp, built to make their -passages as quick as possible, and to enrich their owners in five or six -years,--then they may burst or sink. The boilers are in the forepart of -the vessel, the stokers working under them in the open air. They reach -nearly to the centre, some steamers having as many as eight; the -“Chillicothe” had seven. The machinery, also on deck, comes next, and -then a place for steerage-passengers, where there is no want of fresh -air; it is provided with three rows of bed places. Mounting a flight of -steps you find the officers’ cabins forward, and generally a bar for the -sale of various drinks, excepting in the “Temperance” boats. The saloon -is in the centre, having sleeping cabins with glass doors, for -gentlemen, on each side; and near the stern, the most secure place in -case of disaster, is the ladies’ cabin. Some of the boats have a third -story, but most are satisfied with the arrangement described above. The -station for the helmsman is placed high up between the two chimneys, -covered over and glazed, so that he can look out in all directions. The -tiller ropes have lately been made of wire, so that in case of fire, the -vessel might remain under command of the helm till the last moment. - -We had a great number of passengers, amongst them a young woman of about -two or three and twenty, who came on board a little below Natchez with a -very young man. The young people seemed to have been only lately -married, to judge by their hugging and kissing. When we arrived at -Louisville, in Kentucky, the steamer had to discharge cargo, and -remained the greater part of the day. I was standing on the bowsprit -watching the proceedings, when an elderly gentleman very well dressed, -accosted me, and, describing the couple, inquired if they were on board. -I replied in the affirmative, and accompanied him to the lower cabin. -The lady was sitting on a trunk and reading; her companion had gone into -the town. I suspected that all was not right, and that the old gentleman -had good reasons for coming; but the quiet unconcerned manner of both -parties soon did away with my suspicions. In the first moment indeed her -color seemed to change slightly, but she rose quietly, laid aside her -book, and offering her hand to the gentleman, said, civilly, “How do you -do, sir?” After a short time they retired into a corner, and spoke very -earnestly together. Meantime, I took no more notice of them, but at -bedtime I was not a little astonished to see the old gentleman take the -husband’s place, while the young man, as pale as death, stood by the -stove heedless of its burning the tails of his coat. The lady was the -wife of the gentleman who came on board at Louisville, and had run away -with the young man. The husband had obtained information, and followed -them, but would hardly have overtaken them, if the vessel had not -stopped to discharge cargo. The cool self-possession exhibited by both -parties, in order to avoid observation, was really astonishing; on his -part, in not giving way to his just displeasure, but remaining composed -and serious; on her part, in allowing no shock or trace of alarm to be -visible, which would have been so natural, when her deeply injured -husband, whom she supposed to be 1,400 miles distant, stood suddenly -before her. They all three left the boat next morning. - -On the 20th of February I arrived again at Cincinnati, and was kindly -received by all my old acquaintances after my long absence and -adventures. - -Cincinnati, the queen of the West, the El Dorado of the German -emigrant! Ask a German, who is travelling into the interior from one of -the seaports, Where are you going? and the answer will invariably be--to -Cincinnati. And what will he find there? On my arrival every house was -full of people looking out for work, and who would willingly have taken -any wages that were offered them, though only enough to keep body and -soul together. Among others, I met with a man who had written to his -brother to come over to him, as this was the land where roasted pigeons -flew into men’s mouths. And as a proof of it, he referred to himself: a -few years ago he had emigrated without a farthing, and now kept an hotel -and coffee-house. In point of fact, it was true; he had indeed, an hotel -and coffee-house; but what does that mean in America? Every hovel with -one room large enough for five or six double beds, where a dozen people -are fed three times a day for from two-and-a-quarter to two-and-a-half -dollars a week each, is called an hotel. Coffee-house is a name for any -place where two or three bottles are stuck in the window, while the name -of the owner is proudly painted over the door as coffee-house keeper. -The poor German, deceived by these exalted titles, came over to his -brother, and found him, in spite of hotel and coffee-house, in a -miserable condition, and hardly able to maintain himself. Several -similar cases occurred during the time of my residence. - -There are a great number of Germans in Cincinnati, particularly in the -upper town across the canal, which, on that account, is often called -Little Germany by the Americans. Unfortunately, my beloved countrymen -are not celebrated for cleanliness and good conduct, and the degree of -estimation in which they are everywhere held does not at all accord with -the accounts I had read in a number of works on America concerning the -way in which they were treated there; and although the well-behaved are -respected there as elsewhere, yet it is painful to hear the word -Dutchman, as the Americans always call us, used as a term of reproach, -even when you yourself are excepted. Everywhere in America, and -particularly in Cincinnati, there are people who, having gained a few -dollars, look down with contempt on their poorer countrymen, and even -join the Americans in abusing them, showing how little they care about -the esteem in which the German is held; these, however, were exceptions, -and I was heartily ashamed of them. - -Although the situation of Cincinnati is very healthy, yet it abounds in -doctors and apothecaries. Numbers of the former are Germans; how they -all manage to live is quite a mystery. - -I was much amused with some of the religious absurdities which are -carried on at Cincinnati, and in which my countrymen also distinguish -themselves. The Methodists, under the guidance of a Pennsylvanian of the -name of N----h, carry these practices to the greatest excess; on every -Sunday evening they meet to howl, and jump, and beat their breasts, and -then pronounce themselves perfectly happy. - -This party supports a paper called the “Christian Apology.” Its -bitterest opponent is the Roman Catholic “Friend of Truth,” which only -discontinues its thunder against the heretical folly of the “Christian -Apology” when it hurls a whole volley of abuse and execration against -the “Friend of Light,” which advocates rational religion, and holds up -the two others to ridicule. - -During my present residence, I heard that a German girl was lying sick, -and said to be possessed of a devil, in “Little Germany.” At first I -would not believe that any thing of the sort could occur in the present -day;--but a young Oldenburgher, with whom I had become acquainted, -assured me by all that was holy, that it was so, that he had seen it, -and that having expressed his opinion rather too freely, the bigoted -people, Roman Catholic Alsatians, fell upon him, and drove him out of -the house. - -I decided on witnessing the proceedings, and, in company with a friend, -set off one evening to the house in Little Germany. We had no difficulty -in finding our way to the “sick maiden,” for the whole of that part of -the town was full of the _extraordinary circumstance_, as they called -it. It was dark when we entered a little room in a frame house: a lamp -on the chimney-piece was nearly burnt out, the space was almost filled -by about thirty people all on their knees in silent prayer; not a word -was spoken: the lamp flickered, flashed up again, and went out. It -remained perfectly dark, and nothing was audible but the breathing of -those who were repeating their prayers; then a low murmuring, rustling -sound struck the ear, and for some time I did not know what to make of -it. Suddenly a door opened, light streamed into the room, and with it -the murmurs of numerous voices. People came through the doorway, and -those who had been praying on their knees rose up, and moved towards the -light: we followed the stream. An extraordinary sight presented itself: -we entered a tolerably sized room, oppressively hot, and full of people -on their knees, both men and women. It was lighted by two candles on a -table, at which three men were seated, with open books, reading aloud -the Roman Catholic prayer, “Blessed art thou, Maria,” which all the -people repeated after them; when it was ended, they began again. - -Although it was only May, the heat was so great from the number of -people that I felt half-boiled; but it seemed much warmer to the poor -creature, who was being made a sacrifice to the demon of absurdity. She -was lying in a wide bed in the corner opposite to the table, and was -said to be seventeen years old; I should have guessed her nearer -thirty-seven. She appeared to be very weak and ailing, and no wonder, -considering that the praying went on night and day without intermission: -her mother leant over her, wiping away from her brow the perspiration -arising from the heat of the room. - -It may have been about seven o’clock when we entered this sepulchre of -reason and common sense, and it was ten before we succeeded in making -our way out; and the whole time was occupied with a monotonous -repetition of the same prayer, offered up, as a little Alsatian lightly -whispered to me, “To drive out the devil in order that she may recover.” -The devil in question must certainly have been one of the most obstinate -that ever existed, for had I been in his place, such proceedings would -have driven me out long ago. It was a real luxury to inhale the pure -night air, after escaping from such a pestilential hole. I have never -heard since what became of the poor woman. - -As I learned, after a long stay in Cincinnati, that I had been deceived -by those I had trusted in New York, and that not only all my money but -my clothes also were gone, there was nothing left for it but to endeavor -to get work. I had already made a few voyages as sailor and stoker on -board a steamer, which affected my health, and laid me up for several -weeks. Besides, human life did not seem to be particularly safe on board -American steamers, especially on the western waters, disasters -frequently happening through the rashness and carelessness of the -officers in charge; for example, while I was in one of them, the -“Moselle,” a very fast boat, was blown up near Cincinnati, through the -obstinacy of the captain in racing with another boat, and stopping the -safety-valve, by which 130 persons, whose names were on the passengers’ -list, lost their lives, besides a number of steerage passengers, whose -names are not inscribed. Thirty carts were employed in carrying their -mutilated remains to the burial-places; for weeks afterwards, bodies -were frequently washed on shore. The force of the steam was so great, -that one man was thrown over to the Kentucky shore, and another came -down, head foremost, through a shingle roof. - -In preference to such a life, I sought for work in Cincinnati, and -obtained it at a silversmith’s. Though at first without any knowledge of -the business, I soon acquired it, and was treated by the master and his -family, good kind Americans, as if I had been one of their own -relations. This was the quietest time of my existence. I worked hard and -lived moderately. But this sort of life did not suit me; I longed for -the free woods and nature, and was only detained by the hopes of -acquiring a sufficiency, and then buying a portion of land and settling, -together with the fulfilment of other long-cherished plans. But plans -they remained, and in May I cast off my self-imposed yoke; having -exchanged my shot gun for a double-barrelled rifle, got all my shooting -gear in order, packed up a zither, which I had bought and learnt to play -in Cincinnati, I bade a hearty farewell to all the kind friends I had -made, and set off again with a young German, named Uhl, by the steamer -“Commerce,” to seek fresh adventures and encounter new dangers. - -The steamer foamed and hissed through the waves, which rose high upon -her bows, the land receding on both sides, as if impelled by a -magician’s wand. I felt as if new born, and flying to some strange, wild -land. At first starting, the ideas awakened by the passing scenes were -rather confused, but, as we rushed on, they became clearer, and at last -I might have nodded to each gigantic tree that adorned the beautiful -banks of the Ohio, and asked if it did not remember me. - -My companion, a young Berliner, with whom I had become acquainted and -struck up a friendship in Cincinnati, and who was as fond of field -sports as myself, did not participate in my feelings, but sat himself -down comfortably with no trifling appetite to a symposium, which he had -provided for himself, in the shape of a smoked tongue, with bread and -whiskey. We had not proceeded far when it grew dark; and, fatigued with -all the labors and excitement of the day, I was soon ensconced on my -soft, warm buffalo skin. - -On the 17th May, 1839, we entered the Mississippi, whom I saluted as an -old, long lost, and long wished-for friend; a change in the color shows -where the Ohio joins the “Father of Waters,” for the first is clear and -bright, while the latter is dull and muddy. They run together for some -distance, quite distinct, the Mississippi becoming more and more -intrusive, the other shyly withdrawing, as if vexed that its clear waves -should be contaminated by all the dirt which its companion derives from -the Missouri. - -On the 18th, at five in the afternoon, the “Commerce” stopped at -Memphis, in Tennessee. We immediately crossed to the opposite side, and -sprang joyfully ashore in the long-desired Arkansas. We greatly enjoyed -the mild balsamic air that blew towards us from the green forest, after -our four days’ voyage, and we should have enjoyed it still more but for -the load we had to carry. Besides my game-bag, which was filled with all -possible sorts of things, I had a large buffalo skin, and Uhl a heavy -blanket, with our store of powder and ball. But we were fresh and in -good condition, and resolved, although it was already dusk, to commence -our march the same evening, taking advantage of the cool night air, the -mid-day sun of Arkansas being rather too kindly disposed. We walked on -for about five miles in the brightest moonlight, and then lay down to -repose, but were obliged to get up again and make a fire, on account of -the mosquitoes, which were very troublesome. - -The next morning found us cheerful and refreshed, and, as hungry as -lions, we started off, in the hope of making a prize of a deer; but a -farmer told us that this was not the right season for them, and we were -glad to enter a house and satiate our appetites with bacon and maize -bread. The information we obtained about the game was not very -encouraging; they all seek shelter in the thickest coppices, or among -the reeds to avoid the flies and mosquitoes, which persecute the poor -creatures incessantly; but we could not now change our plans, so marched -steadfastly on. The farmers were quite right; we did not see any deer, -or any traces of them; a poor partridge, perched on a tree, as is -customary with the American partridges, and looking at us with inquiring -eyes, was our only sport. - -In the afternoon the sky became covered with dark clouds, to our great -delight, because it made the air so much cooler. In the evening we saw -the first turkey. He was crossing our path, and stood still when he saw -us: Uhl fired and missed; so our turkey made his bow and departed. - -Heavy rain came on with the night, and we were very glad to find an old -deserted house, where at least we could keep ourselves dry. We made a -glorious fire, and the rain holding up for a short time, we washed our -clothes, which soon dried by the blaze we had made. We then broiled the -partridge in the iron spoon that we carried with us for melting lead, -sprinkled it with powder for want of salt, and discussed it under the -mournful feeling of “only one bird for two men.” - -The next morning brought with it better weather, and an excessively bad -road, the rain having all but destroyed it; a few miles from our night’s -quarters we came to a house, in which we could at least satisfy our -hunger. As the roads were so bad, we decided on leaving our heavy -articles here for a time while we went in search of game. But game -seemed to have vanished entirely; we traversed the forest in all -directions in vain: we only saw a few turkeys, and these were too shy to -let us come within shot. We took up stations to watch for them in the -night, but without seeing any thing, and returned disappointed and tired -to the house. - -Greater misfortune awaited me next day. Continuing our route, we came on -the fresh trail of a bear, and eagerly followed it, but the wood was so -thick and our packs so inconvenient that we were obliged to give it up. -On returning to the path, I was in the act of springing over a pool, -when my foot catching in one of the numerous creepers that cover the -ground, I was thrown, and broke the stock of my rifle, besides cutting -my under lip and loosening some of my teeth: I secured my rifle as well -as I could with my pocket handkerchief, and went on vexed and out of -tune. - -About ten o’clock in the morning, the sun began to dart his hot rays -upon us rather more fiercely than we thought agreeable; we resolved to -enter the first house we came to, till the great heat of the day was -passed. It happened to be inhabited by an elderly widow and her sons; -while we were conversing together I observed one of the boys fishing in -a little flowing stream, pulling up prizes as fast as he could. The -lucky fisherman excited my curiosity; I went to see what he was -catching, and could hardly believe my eyes when I found that they were -crawfish. So long was it since I had tasted them, that they made my -mouth water; I soon got my fish-hook to work, and in the course of half -an hour Uhl and I with two of the boys had caught half a pailful. The -old lady looked at us with astonishment as we seized a saucepan, put in -the crawfish with a little salt, filled it up with water, and set it on -the fire; they had always thought them only fit for bait. The crawfish -soon began to show their red noses, and, when done, we set to work on -them. The meal itself was no slight treat, but our enjoyment was much -heightened by watching the countenances of the Americans, expressive -half of merriment, half of disgust, for they had never dreamt that -people could eat such nasty animals with such a zest. - -When the trees made long shadows we took a friendly leave of these kind -folks, and set off towards the west. About ten o’clock we came to -Blackfish lake, which we had to cross. There was a house on the bank, -where the ferryman lived; but everybody seemed fast asleep--so we -lighted our fire close to the lake, and, covering ourselves well in our -buffalo skin and blanket, we slept soundly till the morning in spite of -the mosquitoes who were humming furiously above us. - -On the 22nd May we were stirring at daybreak; and who would not have -been so, after sleeping in the open air in a southern climate, -surrounded by mosquitoes, which by the first glimmer of light collect -all their forces to attack more ferociously than ever? We roused the -ferryman, who told us of an unexpected swamp, which it would be -impossible for us to get through with such a weight of baggage. I had -heard the word _impossible_ too often, to have much respect for it, it -being frequently applied to things that afterwards were proved to be -very possible; however, a swamp ten miles long did not sound pleasant. -We had to beg hard and pay high for a morsel of bread to quiet our -appetite, the man declaring that he had nothing else for himself. - -Blackfish lake is a desolate, melancholy-looking, coffee-colored piece -of water, several miles long, and some hundreds of yards wide, and its -gloom is increased by overhanging cypresses. It is said to be full of -snakes and other reptiles. Arrived on the opposite side, we had not to -look out long for the swamp. It was straight before our eyes. In point -of fact, the whole land we had passed through was very like a swamp, but -hitherto there had been a broad chaussée, running in a direct line -through the State of Arkansas, from east to west, from Memphis, in -Tennessee, to Batesville; but on the west bank of Blackfish lake it was -not yet cut through the forest, nor raised above the swamp. We were now -to enter the recesses of the primeval forest. And what a forest! and -what a journey! A load of from sixty to seventy pounds on our shoulders, -soft mud under our feet, the heat of the sun increasing, the swamp -giving out a hot suffocating air! Such was our enviable position. We had -hardly worked our way for a quarter of a mile through mud and thorns, -when we were obliged to sit down and rest; but rest was also a torment; -there was not a breath of wind to refresh us, and the moment we stopped -millions of mosquitoes attacked us. The water was lukewarm, and we had -to suck it up from pools covered with slime. If we left the regular -path, which was the most muddy, and tried a short cut through the wood, -we were caught at every step by the thorns and creepers, which in many -places were impenetrable. In spite of all, we were not discouraged, but -went on as well as we could, floundering and resting alternately. After -a time, while taking a short repose, we heard the strokes of an axe--a -heavenly sound to our ears. We laid aside our burdens, and Uhl followed -the direction of the sound, to discover what unfortunate child of man -was thinking of settling in such a swamp. He soon came back, and called -to me to take up the packages and come along, for he had found some -charming people; and we both worked our way through the almost -impervious thicket to these strangers. - -They were a family from Tennessee, who had halted to dine. The group -consisted of the father, a large, strong built man, upon whom time was -just beginning to set his wrinkles, his wife, also formed on a large -scale, two sons, of fifteen and ten, and three daughters, from twelve to -seven. A horse and pair of oxen were feeding quietly near them, and two -large dogs were hid under the two carts, one of which was for baggage, -the other, rather lighter, for the wife and children. The dogs, -anxiously looking out for their food, advanced as near as their ropes -would allow to the table-cloth, which was spread out on a dry place. -Maize-bread and butter, pork, cheese, and coffee were the ingredients of -the meal; and, after a kindly greeting, and a hearty invitation from the -seniors, we were soon all in our places, in Turkish attitudes, round the -table-cloth. The children had kindled fires all round us, laying on -rotten wood, there being no scarcity of it, so that we were sheltered by -a thick smoke, which these tormenting demons cannot bear. Thus we were -left in tolerable repose. - -Uhl and I did not disgrace our German lineage in regard to the -provisions, and after the greater part of them had disappeared, we set -off again on our journey, taking a cordial farewell of our hospitable -friends; and footmarks, of from eighteen inches to two feet deep -impressed in the soft mud, and rapidly filling with water, soon showed -that two pair of German boots had passed that way. At length, when the -sun had descended below the tops of the trees, and was glowing like a -fiery red ball above the horizon, after the greatest exertions, we -approached the termination of our amphibious walk. The forest opened a -little, and we caught sight of a block-house standing on dry ground. We -decided on making a short stay here at all events, to recover from our -fatigue, and to clean and wash our clothes. - -On the next morning I awoke with an excessive itching in my face and -right shoulder, and found, to my no slight astonishment, that both parts -were much swelled, and covered with small blisters. An American, who -dwelt a few hundred paces from the house, and who probably came to see -us and pick up any news, soon cleared up the mystery. A great many of -the creepers and shrubs in the swamps have a milk-white sap, which is -poisonous, and it is likely that I may have broken some of them, and my -face and shoulder may have been smeared with this sap. Wet and cold -applications are considered the best cure. I accordingly surrendered -myself to such treatment, first rubbing my face well with pork fat, as -an antidote to the poison. I must have cut a pretty figure with my -swollen, blistered, shining face. Uhl nearly killed himself with -laughing at me. - -In the evening, some mule drivers from Texas came in, having pitched -their camp not far from the house. They consisted of three whites, and -two Cherokees. One of the Indians spoke English very well, and I had a -long conversation with him. He had adopted all the habits of the whites, -although he did not seem to have much love for them. I went to bed late, -and dreamed of Indians and buffalo hunts. - -All next day I was obliged to remain quiet, on account of my swelled -face, and was rewarded for my patience by being nearly well by the -evening. As the baggage we had hitherto carried was too heavy, we -resolved to leave some of it with these people till we saw what was -likely to become of us. We had neither of us any settled plan. Our -mutual wish had only been freedom and the forest, rightly conjecturing -that all the rest would come of itself. - -As on the second day we continued our journey a great deal lighter, and -with renewed strength. After several miles walk we came to a smithy, -where, luckily, I could get my gun repaired, otherwise I should not have -been able to shoot. This smithy was at a Mr. Strong’s plantation, where -the road branches off to Little Rock, and to Batesville. We were -undecided which to take, when we were told that we should find much more -game on the road to Batesville. This settled the point. We waited till -the cool of the evening to resume our march. While the smith was -repairing my gun, the Tennessee man, with his family, arrived from the -marsh. He had been three days and three nights coming the ten miles, and -even now it is a riddle to me how he managed it. - -On the evening of the 26th of May, after a rich feast on the quantities -of blackberries which grew by the way, we came to a house belonging to a -man of the name of Saint, and decided on staying there to sleep; we -found a better set of people than we had expected, and engaged in a long -conversation with our host. After supper, to our no small horror we -learnt that unless we could swim twenty-eight miles, further progress -was not to be thought of, as the whole swamp between this and White -river was under water. Uhl and I looked at each other, with long faces, -as much as to say, “quid faciamus nos;” but Saint was good enough to -invite us to stay with him till the swamp had somewhat dried up, which -at least would be about the middle of July; meantime we could go out -shooting, and the game we brought home would well repay him for all our -expenses. - -This, of course, was grist to our mill, and we soon made ourselves at -home. On the following morning, almost before we were settled, we went -to the forest with our host, a keen sportsman, to look for bears, taking -seven dogs with us. And what a country he took us to! Swamps and thorns, -creepers, wild vines, fallen trees, half or entirely rotted, deep and -muddy water-courses, bushes so thick that you could hardly stick a knife -into them, and, to complete the enjoyment, clouds of mosquitoes and -gnats, not to mention snakes lying about on the edges of the -water-courses; such is the aboriginal American forest, and in such a -scene we commenced our sport. - -After an hour or two, the dogs started a young bear, and followed him in -full cry, but had not gone far when they were stopped by the river -l’Anguille, or, as they call it here, the Langee; neither coaxing nor -threats could induce them to take to the water, and Saint thought that -if one of us swam over, the dogs would follow, and that we should find -the trail again on the other side. Saint _could_ not swim, Uhl _would_ -not: so I threw off my clothes, and plunged in. The river, which in -summer is very shallow, and hardly seems to flow, was now much swollen, -and had overflowed its banks. As soon as I had swam some distance, Saint -began to cheer on the dogs, and I soon heard them spring into the water, -one after the other, and follow me. I was swimming slowly with long -strokes, and had reached about the middle of the river, when I heard two -of the dogs close behind me, while Saint was still cheering them on from -the bank, as if to attack a bear. The two near me were barking -furiously, and the thought flashed upon me: suppose they were to seize -me? If only one had attacked me, all the rest would have joined, and as -they were strangers to me, if they had fallen upon me I should have had -no chance: so I began to strike out as hard and as fast as I could to -reach the shore. Exerting myself for my life, I came nearer and nearer -the bank, but the excited dogs swam faster still, and I heard the -snorting of one of them close to me when I felt the ground: in an -instant I and the dogs were both on shore. The danger was over now, and -they began to hunt; but either the bear had followed the stream, and -landed lower down, or the ground was too wet for the scent; in short, -we could not find the trail. We tried our luck at another place, with no -more success, and returned home towards evening quite tired and out of -spirits. - -Our hosts to all appearance were very religious people, and we had -prayers every evening. This evening we went early to bed, being all very -tired, so that, as yet, I hardly had time to take much notice of the -people we were to live with. We had to be awakened for breakfast; -afterwards we strolled about the house and fields to realize our -situation. Saint was a man of about forty, with a bright clear eye, and -open brow; you were captivated by him at the very first sight. His wife, -an Irishwoman, treated us very civilly and kindly, and proved to be an -excellent manager. They had no children; but there was another person in -the house, who demands a more particular description. This was a -duodecimo Irish shoemaker, or, as he always insisted--schoolmaster, for -such, by his own account, was his former occupation, though now he made -shoes. Saint had bought a quantity of leather, and the little Irishman -was to work it up, receiving a certain monthly sum. He had red hair, was -pock-marked, stood about five feet, but was stout and strongly built, -and may have been about fifty years old. He spoke unwillingly about his -age, wishing to pass for much younger. Saint, who loved to joke with -him, told us, with a smile, that on Sunday we should see him in his -best, when he would go to pay his court to a young widow in the -neighborhood. - -The house was built of logs, roughly cut. It consisted of two ordinary -houses, under one roof, with a passage between them open to north and -south, a nice cool place to eat or sleep in during summer. Like all -block-houses of this sort, it was roofed with rough four-feet planks; -there were no windows, but in each house a good fireplace of clay. A -field of about five acres was in front of the house, planted with Indian -corn, excepting a small portion which was planted with wheat. Southwest -from the house stood the stable, which S. was obliged to build, because -he gave “good accommodation to man and horse;” otherwise it is not much -the custom in Arkansas to trouble one’s self about stables. A place, -called a “lot,” with a high fence, is used for the horses, hollowed -trees serving for mangers. Near at hand was a smaller log-house for the -store of Indian corn, and a couple of hundred paces further was a mill -which S. had built to grind such corn as he wanted for his own use, and -which was worked by one horse. - -About a quarter of a mile from the house, through the wood, there was -another field of about five acres, also sown with maize. The river -l’Anguille flowed close in the rear of the house; another small building -at the back of the dwelling was used as a smoking house; near it was a -well about thirty-two feet deep. - -We went out shooting and wandering through the woods all day long, -though with little sport. Uhl had had better luck than I, so being -firmly resolved to bring home something, I had been straying in the -forest from daybreak, when at last I saw a deer. Firing too eagerly I -took bad aim, and he fled with long bounds to the thicket; but red marks -on the leaves showed that he was hit. I followed the trail;--but without -a dog it was slow work, and then the increasing darkness convinced me -of the impossibility of finding either the deer or the way back to the -house, being as yet too unacquainted with the country to be able to find -my way by the stars. - -I was soon comfortably stretched by a blazing fire, and should have done -very well, but for the stomach, that constant tormentor, who kept -reminding me that he had had no work to do since the morning, except to -consume a few insignificant green sassafras leaves. The night was -beautiful, the stars shining brilliantly, and the weather fortunately -too cool for mosquitoes. I soon slept quietly and comfortably till about -midnight, when I was awakened by the disagreeable howling of the wolves; -it seemed as if they had all assembled to give me a serenade; if so, the -poor beasts had a very ungrateful audience. During the interval, the -sharp roar of a panther was heard rather too close to my lair. Such a -neighbor was by no means desirable or trustworthy; so I fired in the -direction whence I heard the sound, and he flew back again to the -jungle. I now made up my fire afresh, and was soon asleep for the second -time. - -When I awoke the sun was peeping through the branches. Shaking my limbs, -which were stiff with cold, I commenced my journey homewards, -endeavoring to shorten the way by thoughts of a good warm breakfast. - -S. had for some days talked of cutting down a tree, in which he had -discovered a swarm of wild bees, but something had always happened to -hinder it; however, on the first of June we set off at daybreak on our -long talked of excursion, the party being increased by S.’s -brother-in-law. The two Americans took axes, while Uhl and I carried -pails to hold the honey we expected to find. We proceeded to a little -prairie about three miles off, and soon found the tree, which S. had -discovered and marked. It is a backwoods custom, when any one finds a -tree with wild bees, and has not time or inclination to cut it down at -once, to cut his name, or if he cannot write, as was the case with S., -to make his mark on it, and if any one else finds the tree and sees the -mark, he goes on his way, leaving it to the first finder. - -S.’s tree was a decayed red oak, on the verge of the little prairie. The -two axes, wielded by powerful and skilful arms, soon made the old tree -totter, and then fall with a crash. In the mean time I had lighted a -fire by S.’s directions, laid it on a piece of bark, and covered it with -rotten wood, so that it gave out a thick black smoke. As soon as the -tree was down, I held this under the opening where the bees went in and -out: stupefied by the smoke, they flew high into the air, never -attempting to sting, though several flew about me, and lighted on my -clothes. Our trouble did not go unrewarded; we found a pretty thick -bough full of honey, of which we ate as much as we wished, carrying home -the rest. - -S. seemed to be pleased with us, for he asked us to remain with him to -look after his cattle, of which he had about two hundred head running -loose in the woods; we might take our rifles and shoot at the same time. -As this seemed to suit our plans, we took the subject into serious -consideration, and on Monday, June 3rd, made the following compact. We -agreed to undertake the charge of S.’s cattle, to give them salt in the -little prairie from time to time, where a tent was to be pitched for us, -and whither we were frequently to drive them, to accustom them to it. We -were to receive one-third of the produce, namely: every third calf, as -our property. S. bound himself to provide us with pork, flour, coffee, -sugar, and salt; also, as soon as he had time, to build a small house -for us in place of the tent. So far so good; but the final clause was a -jewel, and the Irish schoolmaster who drew up the bond was not a little -vain of his performance. It stated: “Neither of the undersigned parties -is bound by this contract, if any one of them should think that he could -do better elsewhere.” The important document was signed by both parties, -S. making a cross, and then it was carefully secured in S.’s strong box, -the Irishman putting the copy in his pocket, probably to show the widow -this specimen of his abilities. We shouldered our rifles, and trotted -off to reconnoitre our new province. - -Uhl and I having separated, I shot a young deer, but as it was too heavy -to carry, I let it lie, and took a direct line towards home, marking the -trees with my tomahawk as I went along. Suddenly a hen turkey flew up; -before I could fire she was lost in the bushes, but right under my feet -lay nine beautiful eggs, in a nest made of dry grass. I sat down to -await the return of the hen, but as she did not choose to make her -appearance, I took up the eggs and carried them home, intending to rear -them; then I went with a horse to pick up my deer. - -Having signed the agreement with S., and decided on remaining here some -time, it was necessary to fetch our things, which we had left at -Blackfish lake, and S. kindly offered us one of his horses for the -purpose; but the horses were running wild in the woods, and had to be -caught. Uhl and I set off to catch one, taking different directions; we -searched the whole day without seeing a single trail, and our endeavors -on the following day were just as unfortunate. At first we hunted -together, but afterwards again separated. I went pacing along one of the -paths that cross the wood in all directions, but soon found that it was -only a deer or cow path; I left it, and pushed on in a straight -direction, careless as to the line of country, so that I could only fall -in with a horse; and as to the night, sleeping under the green trees was -more agreeable than in a close room. The idea that I might lose myself -never occurred to me. At length, however, as I advanced, the scenery -assumed a different character to that in S.’s neighborhood. It was no -longer marshy, but the ground was undulating, and I once more saw -fir-trees, which I had lately so much longed for. Contrary to my -expectations, I arrived at a farm before dark, but could obtain no -information about the horses--no one had seen any--and on my asking how -far I was from S.’s farm, I received the agreeable answer, “At least -eleven miles;” rather too far for an evening’s walk--so the good folks -kindly asked me to pass the night with them. I placed my gun and cap in -a corner, and seated myself with them in the mild evening air; we struck -up an agreeable conversation, and I fully expected a very pleasant -evening; but a storm was brewing to disturb its serenity. We had not -long been seated when a tall, ceremonious, respectable looking man, -buttoned to the chin in a long brown coat, arrived. He saluted us rather -solemnly, then seating himself at a short distance, took a little book -from his pocket, turned over the leaves, and, before I suspected any -thing, he thundered out a hymn with a voice that astounded me. Not being -used to such a proceeding, I looked first at one then at the other for -some explanation, but they kept their eyes fixed on the ground, looking -very solemn all the time. The voice of the singer became louder and -louder. The good man seemed to have lost the end of his song; night came -on, and it was rather cold--still he kept on, until at last his voice -failed, and he was obliged to stop. I thought this was all, but more -people arrived, among them some very pretty young women, such as I never -expected to see in the wilderness. The air being cool and damp, we -entered the house, which was set out with benches, and looked like a -school-room. The case was clear--I had stumbled on a Methodist meeting, -and must take the consequences. The singing and praying lasted several -hours, and I was heartily tired of it, as it did not agree with my -habits and feelings. - -With the first streaks of red I commenced my journey homewards, and -arrived about noon, to find that Uhl, with more luck than myself, had -already caught a horse. - -On the 8th of June I rode off to Blackfish lake swamp, to bring away the -things we had left at Hamilton’s. Just as I entered the house, Mrs. -Hamilton had a robust little fellow in front of her, a stepson, I -believe, about three or four years old, and told him to jump about the -room for a piece of cake she held in her hand. He began to jump, and -looked very comical as he bobbed up and down like a cork. When he -thought he had earned his cake, he came to ask for it, but was put off -with the word “more.” He quietly went back to his place, and recommenced -his exercise, but had lost the cheerful expression of his -countenance--he was doing it as a duty. After dancing for some time -longer, he came again for his cake, in the firm belief that this time he -was sure of it, but a “more yet” made him start. He begged, protested, -cried--all in vain; “more yet,” said his inexorable tormentor, holding -the cake up for him to jump at. Tears ran down the poor little fellow’s -cheeks, and he jumped and jumped, and sobbed, and wiped his eyes with -his sleeve. It was impossible to keep one’s countenance any longer, and -as I cried with laughing, he laughed through his tears. He then received -the cake he had so well danced for, and jumped once more from free will, -out of doors with it. - -I packed all things on the horse, and set out on my return the same -evening. On the following morning we began to build our house; we pulled -down an old block-house, standing about three miles from the site we had -chosen, and carted the logs to our prairie, where we could easily -rebuild it. In the backwoods building is a very simple art. In the first -place, small trees of oak, or some other good wood, are felled and cut -to the requisite length. Next comes the foundation: two of the largest -trunks are laid parallel to each other on the ground at the proper -distance, two others are laid across their ends to form the square, and -fitted into each other with notches, which makes the building all the -firmer, and closes the crevices. In this way the walls are run up, but -without any entrance. Ours being an old house rebuilt, the logs all -fitted each other, and door and chimney were already cut, which, in -other cases, has to be done with the axe after the walls are up. The -roof is then laid, and, Swiss fashion, has to be secured with weights, -to prevent its being blown away; but wood being more plentiful here than -stone, heavy poles, called weight-poles, or young trees are used -instead. - -Although the heat was oppressive, our work went on rapidly, and we soon -had the house up all but the chimney, which, it being summer, was not so -necessary. Besides, dabbling with moist clay being dirty and -disagreeable work, the chimney is generally left until it is too cold to -do without it. June 10th, we began our fence, so that the cattle might -not walk into the house, and also to secure the calves, that the cows -might come to be milked. - -The fences are formed of split logs of black or red oak, or hickory, ten -or eleven feet long, and four or five inches thick, these woods -splitting easily; the fences are laid zigzag, and carried to a height -that no horse, much less a cow, can jump over. This was hard work, and -the heat oppressive; I felt very feverish, and had a severe headache, -but as the work could not go on without me, I would not hang back. On a -sudden every thing began to dance before my eyes, then all was dark, and -I fell fainting to the ground. I soon recovered, and lay for a short -time in the shade of a tree, then continued my work till evening. Next -day S. wanted to get in his wheat, and as I felt quite well again, we -went to help him; I had hardly been half an hour at work, when, in spite -of the burning heat, I felt a peculiar shivering and severe headache, -while my lips and nails turned blue; in short, there was no doubt I had -the ague. I went immediately to bed, and by noon was somewhat better. S. -would not allow me to return to our hut, but insisted on my staying with -them till my recovery, that I might always receive assistance. The fits -returned on the second and third days, making me feel very weak and -weary. - -On the third day, a Saturday, at about two in the afternoon, I felt -better, and went to the mill, where S. was at work, meaning to help him -and take a little exercise, when I saw two strangers, a man and a woman, -riding along the road. With horror, I recognized in the countenance of -the man the Methodist preacher who had so tormented me some days before. -It was not without reason that I dreaded a repetition of the scene. He -rode past me with an important and expressive countenance, which seemed -to say: “Here I am again you see, make yourself happy.” Uhl, to whom I -had given a description of the former meeting, tried to slip off with me -to the hut, but we were discovered, and invited to attend. The -difference between this and the former meeting was that we had a sermon, -in the course of which two women in succession jumped about in a -pitiable state of excitement. - -About noon next day, the dogs ran round and round the field, always -stopping at one particular place. S. said there must be a fox there. I -hastened to get a shot at him, but without success, till suddenly, by -the barking of the dogs, I knew that Reynard must have come to a stop, -and supposed him to have run to earth; but what was my surprise on -finding him perched on a tree, from which he was seriously contemplating -the furious dogs beneath him! I was so astonished that at first I did -not fire. When I did so, he remained hanging between the two branches -where he had squeezed himself, which was all the better for his skin, as -the dogs would have spoiled it. I afterwards learnt that the foxes here -always climb a tree, when driven to the last, but they can only manage -it with small trees, nor can they get higher than ten or twelve feet; in -the swamps they generally live in the hollows of trees. - -On returning to the house I found the little schoolmaster in the height -of his glory. He was dressed all in white;--white trousers, a snow white -shirt and jacket, white neckcloth, a light-colored, almost white, straw -hat, and light tanned shoes, also almost white. To all this garb of -innocence, the red hair, red face, redder nose, and bluish red hands, -offered a striking contrast; he seemed to be well satisfied with -himself, stepped carefully over the fence, and was soon lost, like a -sunbeam, in a dark forest. - -On the 20th June we finished our fence. On the 21st we began the floor -of our house, and on the 22nd the grand work was all complete. In the -afternoon we went to S.’s to fetch our things, and towards evening, as -it was very warm, I plunged into the cool stream flowing past the back -of the house, and had to pay for it severely on the following day by a -return of ague. Perhaps a rather too copious indulgence in -blackberries, which abounded here, may have somewhat contributed to this -result. Be the cause what it may, the attacks were repeated, and so -severely that I was confined to the house, when S., his brother-in-law, -and Uhl rode away for a buffalo hunt. I passed two tedious days in bed, -but on the third, feeling better, I took my rifle, and lounged along the -banks of the river, to try and pick up a couple of young wild ducks, -which were just in season. In the course of half an hour I had killed -three, and was on my way home, feeling much fatigued, when immediately -before me, almost under my feet, I perceived a mocassin snake, ready to -attack me, with its head drawn back, and its tongue darting out. These -snakes are very venomous; so jumping back, by no means leisurely, I -seized a long stick, and belabored him with it till he could do no harm. -This deep moist ground is full of venomous snakes; but it is very rarely -that any person is bitten, because they are shy, and always try to -escape when any one approaches. - -On my return I found a fresh bear’s trail very near the house. Bruin had -crossed the river since I had passed, but the buffalo hunters had taken -all the dogs; and I was too weak to follow him alone. They returned in -the evening without having seen any buffaloes, though they had crossed -their trail. Uhl had shot a deer or two, which was all their booty. - -On the 2nd July we rode off to a farm belonging to a Mr. Dunn, about -eleven miles off, to drive home some cattle that S. had bought. We did -not arrive till dusk, and found Mr. Dunn at home; he was a fat man with -a copper-colored nose, that seemed to do no dishonor to the sign before -his door; and a bottle of whiskey soon glittered on the table. S. drank -no spirits, so only just tasted it once: we did not follow his example, -but drank and laughed and talked till late in the night. - -I was much surprised next morning by the view from Dunn’s house. We were -again amongst the hills, the house standing on the eastern spur, which -stretches out towards the swamps like a peninsula. The thick white fog, -through which not a tree was visible, north, south, or east, looked like -the sea, and I was prompted to look out for a sail; the glowing red ball -of the sun as he worked his way through it, cast a roseate hue over all. -As the sun rose higher the fog began to disperse, and the tips of the -highest trees appeared. As the fog vanished, it gave place to a -boundless extent of green, unbroken by any rise, save that on which we -stood. I remained for a long time in silent admiration of the -fascinating sight. - -After breakfast we collected our animals, and drove them towards home, -through thorns, creepers, morasses, cane brakes, streams, and woods. -Driving a number of cattle, which have never before been under the hand -of man, is about as hard work as one can imagine, and a man who never -swore in his life would be sure to learn it then. But cattle-driving was -now our business, and we followed it up with a will. After immense -difficulty, we succeeded in bringing them all within the fence in our -prairie, secured them with the lasso, branded them with Saint’s mark, -and left them to themselves till the morning. At dark we spread my -buffalo skin on the ground, covered ourselves with Uhl’s blanket, and -were soon fast asleep. - -By this time we began to feel a little more comfortable, having made a -couple of rough benches, and fixed some shelves to hold our things; but -as our utensils were not very numerous, cooking was one of our chief -difficulties. There was, however, no want of food, for Saint supplied so -plentifully. - -We kept in all the calves of the new herd, leaving the cows at liberty, -as they never strayed very far from their young. We were also obliged to -confine some of the wildest, but the rest soon accustomed themselves to -the prairie, particularly as we sprinkled salt before them, of which -they are passionately fond. Indeed we gave it to all the cattle every -evening, which kept them from straying far away. In the daytime we -ranged the woods with our rifles. - -[Illustration] - - - - -CHAPTER VI. - -A FARMER’S LIFE IN THE WOODS. - -(CONTINUED.) - - My comrade attacked by ague--Removal to a new locality--Snakes in - the woods--Grinding corn--“Lying” Bahrens--Repeated attacks of - ague--Sassafras tree--“An epileptic breakfast”--Night in the - forest--The panther--Visit to Hilger--Shooting by torchlight--A - distillery--A backwoods politician--Clearings--New farm--Illness, - and want of medical aid--Negro children--Two American - speculators--Bad characters in Arkansas--Removal to a new farm at - Oiltrove bottom--White river--A gallant buffalo - hunter--Home-sickness--Unhealthy swamps--Bear-hunting in companies. - - -On the 8th of July, I had killed a fawn. The flesh was very delicate, -and we had made a hearty feast on it, when Uhl complained of headache -and sickness, and though he had frequently boasted of his sound -constitution, and maintained that he should never be ill, he began to -feel some doubts on the subject. Next day he was very ill, and on the -third, about noon, his sickness declared itself as a regular attack of -ague. I did all I could to relieve him, but in our loneliness we had -little to comfort an invalid. Towards evening he got better, and longed -for some blackberries. I took a tin dish, and went to a place about -eighty paces from our house, where they grew in quantities; there had -formerly been a field here, and the thorns grew thick about the -overthrown trees. I was plucking some of the ripest berries from one of -the largest bushes, in which I had once or twice heard something move; -but as all the cows and calves were near me, and I supposed it proceeded -from some of them, I had not taken much notice of the fact, when -suddenly the bush opened, and a large, powerful wolf walked deliberately -forth; he looked steadily at me, and seemed inclined to declare war. I -raised my foot to give him a kick with my heavy fisherman’s boot, for I -had no weapon; but he seemed to think better of it, and walked away -slowly towards the jungle. I hastened to the house, seized my rifle, and -followed his trail; but too late, for he had taken to flight. - -July 11th. Uhl was so far recovered as to be able to go to Saint’s, -where he could receive better care, and for some time I was alone in my -hermitage. I felt very comfortable, having no cares or troubles, paid -attention to my charge, supplied them plentifully with salt, and -constantly went out shooting, bringing home young turkeys, which were -just large enough to be eaten. In the evening, when all was still, I sat -in front of the house, by a blazing fire, playing my zither, and was -very happy without seeing a human face. - -On July 17th I went to Saint’s to see Uhl, and to get some flour and -coffee. Uhl was better, and free from fever, but weak. I did not return, -as Saint required my assistance. Saint then proposed that, for the -summer and autumn, we should move further west, and pitch our camp near -Brushy lake, about six miles from Saint’s, where there was better -pasture, so that when once the cattle had been driven there, they would -not be likely to stray. I was pleased with the plan, as there was more -game there, and we only waited Uhl’s recovery to put it in execution. - -On July 22nd Uhl felt tolerably well, so we started in company with a -long Kentuckyman, who happened to be there, to have a look at the -country, and to fix on a place for our tent. As it was late in the -afternoon when we started, it was almost dark when we arrived. We were -deceived in our expectations of finding game, and had to go hungry to -sleep, having brought no provisions with us, except a morsel of bread -and a couple of onions. We had made sure of killing a deer before dark, -but had reckoned without our host. It was a beautiful night, mosquitoes -excepted; we had nothing to wish for beyond a good supper. A bright fire -was soon blazing up, for notwithstanding the heat of the days the nights -were cold. - -Our American friend, Jim by name, was very much afraid of snakes, which -abounded in this neighborhood. He could not rest quiet, and repeated a -number of stories of this person or that having been bitten by snakes in -the night. I let him talk on, while I made preparations to go to sleep. - -Half asleep, I still heard the snake stories, till, overpowered by -fatigue, Morpheus took me softly in his arms; but there were snakes -hanging about me, and some of them grew to an immense size, till at last -it seemed as if a very wicked-looking one came straight towards me, -crawled under my left knee, and there coiled himself down--yet he kept -fidgeting as if he could not make himself quite comfortable. I awoke, -and lay for a moment quite still; Jim was yet telling his snake stories -to Uhl, who was listening attentively, when I positively felt something -move under my knee, and hearing of nothing else, thinking of nothing -else, of course I supposed it must be a snake. I dared not raise myself -slowly for fear of pressing on the snake, when he would certainly have -bitten me. I sprang up as quickly as I could, and at once burst away -from my couch: my two comrades, with their brains full of all sorts of -monsters, no sooner saw me start up so suddenly, than they followed my -example, as if they had been fired from a gun, and we looked at each -other in dismay. - -I examined the place where I supposed the snake to be, and found a -little twig of about eight or nine inches growing out of the ground, and -which had been under my knee. We all laughed heartily at our fright, and -were soon fast asleep. - -Our appetites next morning were very sharp. In the course of a couple of -hours Jim shot a squirrel, which afforded but a meagre breakfast for -three people. After breakfast we tried again, and with better success on -my part, for, happening to espy a deer in the jungle, I knocked him -over, and we returned to S.’s well laden with venison. Although we had -found several spots suitable for our tent, we had not fixed on any one -in particular, and we were well pleased with the place altogether, -notwithstanding snakes and mosquitoes. - -Hitherto we had always eaten maize bread, because, although S. could -grind wheat, he had no means of bolting it; and as it was stacked in the -field he decided on sending it to a mill about fifteen miles distant. -The wheat was in sheaves, but there was neither barn nor thrashing -floor, neither flail nor winnowing machine, nothing to clean it from -the straw; however, we set to work Arkansas fashion. The weather was -bright and dry, the road before the door as hard as a stone, but dusty: -a space about thirty feet in diameter was fenced in, and swept as clean -as possible; the sheaves were unbound and laid in a circle, every two -sheaves with their ears together, one with the straw to the centre, the -other with the straw outwards; six horses were mounted, and ridden round -and round, while two men kept shaking down fresh corn; when it had been -well trodden out, it had to be sifted. - -I had probably worked rather too hard, caught another attack of ague, -and was obliged to lie down till evening, when I felt somewhat better. -This evening we were visited by a friend of S.’s, or neighbor, as he -called himself, though living at a distance of twenty-five miles; but -there was neither house nor road between the two. He was called Jim -Bahrens, but S. whispered to me that he was nicknamed “lying Bahrens,” -and indeed Munchausen would have been obliged to hide his face before -him. He was very talkative and amusing; amongst other things, he told us -that he had but a small tract of land, but that it was the best and most -fertile in the whole world; that he could grow every thing on it, except -corn beans (the common garden bean), because the corn grows so fast, -that it drags the beans out of the earth. He invited us to come and see -him, telling us that he could kill as much game in a day as would weigh -1000 pounds for that he lived among large herds both of buffaloes and -deer. We promised to come, and see all these wonders. - -On the 1st of August, Uhl told me that he wished to go, being tired of -this sort of life; and, indeed, I must allow that I myself was rather -sick of it. I was so weak that I could hardly crawl, and saw so many -sickly faces around me, that I could not try to persuade him to remain. -We divided our property, for hitherto we had had all things in common, -and on the same day he marched off to the west. I had no time to indulge -in sorrowful thoughts, for the ague attacked me again; having brought -some medicine with me from Cincinnati, I took an emetic, and then a dose -of quinine, which succeeded in subduing it. - -On August 3rd, I felt better, and decided in the afternoon on driving to -the mill; but the grain had first to be cleaned. This, without a -machine, was rather a difficult matter, but the sharp Americans know how -to manage it. Two of the stoutest fellows hold a blanket by the four -corners; a third stands on a chair with a sieve full of grain, which he -shakes, not too fast, nor too long at a time, while the two with the -blanket make as much wind as they can, by working it up and down; the -chaff is blown away, while the wheat falls to the ground, and is at once -gathered into the sack, though not quite so clean as it would be with -our system. - -By two o’clock we were able to start, the cart being drawn by oxen, and, -owing to their slow discreet pace, it was pitch dark when we arrived at -the mill. At so late an hour grinding was out of the question; we -lighted our fire, broiled our supper, and laid down in the wagon to -sleep till daylight. But the night was so beautiful, the stars shining -so mildly down upon us, the wind blowing so soft and warm through the -green branches, that we could not sleep, but went on talking. Both my -companions were Americans, one of them a strict Methodist, and there was -nothing more natural than that we should talk of the stars, then of -heaven, then of religion; and as we entertained very different views, -our conversation degenerated into a hot dispute, which was put an end to -about midnight by a heavy shower of rain, that forced us to seek shelter -for ourselves and our sacks. - -Next day we began to grind, and slow work it was, for we had to turn the -mill with our own oxen, who had no idea of inconveniencing themselves; -however, we managed to reach home the same night. The season was now far -enough advanced for the leaves of Indian corn to be stripped and laid up -as fodder for the winter. This plant, in the southern States, will grow -to a height of eleven or twelve feet, and often bears three cobs: the -white sort is the best for bread, the yellow, containing more sugar, is -best for fodder and for whiskey. - -On the 15th of August I received a letter from Uhl, telling me that he -was with my old acquaintance, the Rhenish-Bavarian, at Little Red river, -and that he was going to join Turowski in farming. I had too lively a -remembrance of the kindness of old Hilger not to take a walk to visit -him; therefore, as soon as our fodder was all in, I prepared for my -journey, and early on the 20th of August I shouldered my rifle, and, -with one of S.’s dogs by my side, set off in the hottest season of the -year through the dried swamp. The atmosphere was sultry in the extreme, -but by evening I had reached the bank of White river, a distance of -thirty-two miles, where I passed the night. - -I was ferried across at daybreak, and had forty miles to go to reach the -Little Red river. The south bank of the White is one of the most fertile -in America, on which account it rejoices in the name of “Oiltrove -bottom.” Some say that the soil is better than that of the American -bottom opposite St. Louis; and this is my opinion, having seen from -sixty to seventy bushels of maize to the acre, and pumpkins larger than -a man can lift. Trees grow to an enormous size, some of the trunks of -the sassafras trees measuring from five to six feet in diameter; pawpaw -trees are also very numerous. This last is a small tree bearing a fruit -about four or five inches long, and two to two and a half inches thick, -having a soft sweetish pulp, with numbers of oily kernels. Generally -speaking, the Americans do not value it much, though some are very fond -of it. It was not at all to my taste; its bark is very tough, and is -useful for a variety of purposes, amongst others for ropes. The valley -of the White river is full of these trees, and of the thick American -canes, or reeds, which form impenetrable thickets, and are the favorite -haunts of bears. Just now this fruit was quite out of favor, and even -the pigs would no longer eat it, when a distiller of the name of Magnus -tried its qualities, and extracted such a superior spirit from it, that -he declared he would not sell a drop of it, but keep it all for his own -drinking. - -Not to lose time, I had set off in the morning without breakfast, and by -the time I had walked six miles had a very respectable appetite. -Looking out for a house, I espied one about an hundred paces from the -path. The door was open, and the family were just sitting down to -breakfast; nothing better could be wished for. I sprang over the fence, -and asked a stout pale man if I could have something to eat by paying -for it; on receiving the expected answer I joined the company. Maize -bread, coffee, and bacon, the usual breakfast in this part of the world, -was spread out on the table, and I was preparing to set to with a will, -when the man sitting by my side, after looking at me with a mournful -expression, asked if I had ever in my life seen a man who was subject to -epilepsy. Now such a question could be nowhere more out of place than -when addressed to a hungry man sitting down to a good breakfast, so I -answered shortly, “Yes, sir.” “Well then,” said he, “don’t be surprised -if you see me attacked before breakfast is over, for at times it comes -on very suddenly.” If any one had told me that the meat on the table, -instead of good pork, was a piece of salted negro, it could not have -taken away my appetite more effectually than did this grave -announcement. I looked at the man in astonishment: he was very pale, and -looked serious, and not at all given to joking. I looked at his wife, -who was pale almost to transparency: I looked at the children, who were -also deadly pale, but more dirty than transparent. I gulped down the cup -of coffee in despair, gave the dog, who probably had not heard the -observation, or cared nothing for it, the bread off my plate, which he -eagerly took, paid my quarter dollar, the usual price for a breakfast, -and continued my journey. - -For some time I kept the broad road towards Batesville, then struck off -to the left through the forest, and, going tolerably fast, arrived -before sunset at the plantation of a widow named Pace, where I intended -to pass the night, having still ten miles to go to Little Red river, and -no other house near the path. The roof reflected the last beams of the -setting sun; my stomach, which had received nothing but the coffee since -the previous evening, was beginning to rejoice, when we both found -ourselves wofully disappointed--the lady was not at home. The slaves -dared not admit any stranger to sleep there. I should not have cared -about a roof to sleep under, for the nights were fine and warm, if only -I could have obtained something to eat; but this could not be, and I was -obliged to employ the fine warm night in walking on to the place of my -destination. - -After the sun had gone down, my light-colored, well-trodden path was -illuminated by the nearly full moon, for I had left the darker lowlands -some hours ago, and was traversing dry, but not very fruitful, hills, -through the midst of fir-trees. About two miles short of the river, I -gained the crest of the hills that divide the waters of the White and -Little Red rivers, just as the moon was setting, and my limbs felt as if -they were hung with lead. I had gone seventy miles since the previous -morning without tasting a regular meal, which was more than flesh and -blood could bear for any length of time, and at last I was so overcome -by fatigue that I sank down exhausted under a tree without even lighting -a fire. The poor dog lay by my side, resting his head on my arm. I might -have slept about three hours, for the first gleam of approaching day -was lighting up the eastern sky, when I was awakened by the loud, angry -bark of the dog. I jumped up, rifle in hand, but could see nothing and -hear nothing: I cheered on the dog, but in vain: he would not move from -my side, and only barked louder and louder. I fancied he might have -scented wolves, and was about to lie down again, when I distinctly heard -a rustling in the bush, although there was not a breath of wind. I -approached the place cautiously with both barrels cocked, but could -discover nothing; and as it was still dark, and no trail perceptible, I -could do no more, so lay down again for another short sleep, when I -suddenly heard the short piercing roar of a panther, which those who -have once heard never forget. My dog answered it with a slight whimper, -and crept closer to my side. I now knew the character of my nightly -visitor; and tolerably sure that, once frightened away, he would be in -no hurry to return, I was soon asleep, and remained so till awakened by -the cold air which always precedes the rising sun. - -As beautiful a panorama as I had ever beheld lay spread out before me. A -sea of forest as far as the eye could reach, in every shade of color, -from the darkest green to light blue--the Little Red river winding -through the midst of it, while a light downy mist hung about the tips of -the trees on its banks. To the west and south-west, the distant -mountains cut sharply in a mass of blue against the lighter morning sky. -Hills overgrown with pines rose above the darker extent of oak, like -islands floating in a deep green sea, as the sun’s rays were reflected -from the dewy leaves. Light vapor rising here and there from the -valleys, curling over the forest, and vanishing into air, revealed the -site of human habitations hidden in the woods. I sat long, lost in -contemplation of the lovely scene, and again the question pressed itself -upon me--“Why must I enjoy it alone?” Then I remembered my visitor of -the past night, and, shaking off all mournful thoughts, looked out for -the trail; and there, hardly twenty paces from my bivouac, were the -marks of the large round paws of the beast impressed in the loose sand. -He had probably tried to creep up to me without being discovered, but -the dog had spoiled his sport. - -Refreshed by sleep, I hastened down the hill, found a canoe, which took -me over the river, and soon the well-known friendly abode of the -Rhenish-Bavarian shone invitingly before me. It seemed almost as if it -was my home, from which I had been long, long absent, and that all its -dear inmates would rush joyfully forward to embrace me. Alas for our -dreams! - -Hilger and his wife welcomed me with a hearty shake of the hand. I soon -felt myself at home and happy with these kind people, and I was not a -little delighted with the breakfast, which quickly adorned the table, -and which did not taste amiss after my long fast. - -Hilger had made vast improvements in his condition since I was here two -years ago. He had bought the land, had a pair of horses, several head of -cattle and pigs, and lived happy and independent in the circle of his -family, which, in the mean time had been increased by the birth of a -little prince. His two sons, of fifteen and thirteen, were nice lads, -and worked hard with their father to make their way in the world happily -and honestly. - -Uhl came in in the afternoon from a place belonging to Von G., about two -miles off. He looked very pale and wretched, still suffering severely -from ague. I was delighted to pass a short time here among Germans, -where I could speak my mother-tongue to my heart’s content, and live -like a man. Peaches and watermelons grow here in great abundance, and -were a treat which I had long been deprived of. - -On the second day I went down the river to Von G.’s, who kept the ferry, -and in whose house I had passed the night two years ago, on my first -arrival. He received me kindly and hospitably. He was a keen sportsman -and capital shot, and was extremely lucky in shooting by torchlight, a -practice in which he had acquired such perfection as often to shoot -three or four deer in a night. On one night when I went out with him, he -shot a noble buck, hitting him right in the heart, although he could not -see his body, and could only judge of his position by the light -reflected from his eyes, and by their movement. I shall describe this -sort of shooting more particularly hereafter. I also attempted it, but -without success, from want of practice, having yet to learn all the fine -touches. We saw the eyes of three wolves, but they were frightened by -the fire, and would not come near us. - -My health was still far from good; and being one day wet through by a -sudden shower, I was again attacked by ague, and obliged to lie fallow -for a couple of days. As my illness came on at Von G.’s, he kindly -asked me to remain with him till I was better. I gratefully accepted the -invitation, and recovered in a few days, when I took a hearty farewell -of all my kind friends here, and returned to my marshes. - -On the fourth of September I crossed White river, and went on to Little -Cash river, passing a distillery, where they made maize whiskey, but -sold very little of it, as the three young men, who carried on business -in company, drank most of it themselves. - -The Cash was so shallow that I crossed it along a fallen tree, and, as -it began to rain, I stopped for the night at the house of a man named -Harriot. We had finished our simple supper, and were sitting comfortably -by a blazing fire, which was crackling up the chimney, when my host, -looking at me sideways, cleared his throat, and brought his chair a -little nearer to mine, then giving the quid of tobacco in his cheek an -extra turn, put to me the unexpected question--“How’s the king of -Spain?” I was rather disconcerted at first, and thought he wanted to -make fun of me, but when I saw by his countenance, that he was in -downright earnest, I replied gravely, that according to the last -accounts which I had received His Majesty was suffering from a severe -cold;--whereupon he expressed his sincere regret, and then inquired -after all the other crowned heads in Europe. As we proceeded in our -conversation, I found that by the king of Spain he meant Gustavus -Adolphus: he placed Francis the Second of Austria on the throne of -France; England was ruled by Constantine the Great; and Germany was -presented to Louis Philippe. I was much amused with his wild fantasies. -In the meanwhile he kept paying earnest devotion to the whiskey bottle, -offering it to me at the same time. I took a little at first, but -latterly only put it to my lips for show. The nearer we approached the -bottom of the bottle, the wilder danced their majesties across the magic -lantern of his imagination. And as we were taking into consideration the -case of Russia, which, by our united endeavors, had become a republic, -his head began to nod, and his chin had hardly touched his breast when -he began to snore. His wife, a simple soul, who had been brought up in -the woods, had listened to us with astonishment, and was still holding -her mouth open as I turned to seek my bed. - -My dreams transported me to my native land--not to the royal palaces I -had just left, but to my home, with its much-loved forms. On the 5th of -September, I arrived again at Saint’s, and indulged my body with some -necessary repose, shattered as it was by so many attacks of the ague. On -the 9th, Saint commenced his Indian corn harvest, which lasted till the -11th, and I gave my assistance. The cobs were simply broken away from -the stems, and cast into a cart which carried them to the building -prepared to receive them. When this work was done, we began -another--namely, to clear about half an acre more land, and sow it with -turnips. - -The western settlers, and particularly those in the south-western -states, are not very fond of hard work; in those wild regions they -prefer rearing cattle and shooting, to agriculture, and are loth to -undertake the hard work of felling trees and clearing land. To make the -labor as light as possible, yet still to increase their fields, they -generally clear a small space every autumn, and ploughing it very -slightly, sow it with turnips, which answer best for new ground. Next -year it is fenced in and added to the field. - -When about to make a clearing, the American looks out for the largest -and straightest oaks, which he fells, and slits into poles, from ten to -twelve feet long, for fencing. When he thinks he has enough for this -purpose, the rest is cut up and piled; next, the trees which have a -diameter of eighteen inches and under, are felled, at about half a yard -from the ground, and cut into lengths, while the larger trees are -girdled all round with the axe, and very soon die. The shrubs and bushes -are then rooted up with a heavy hoe, and, with the help of the neighbors -who are invited for the purpose, the whole, except the poles for the -fence, is rolled into a heap and set on fire. - -As soon as the land is cleared of all that can be easily removed it is -fenced in and ploughed. This last work is very severe, and gives the -ploughman and cattle many a rough shake, as the ploughshare, catching in -the roots, has constantly to be lifted out of the ground, or to be moved -out of the way of the standing stumps. These stumps give the fields a -very extraordinary appearance; it takes from six to ten years before -they rot away entirely. It sometimes happens that the trees killed by -girdling are blown down amongst the growing crops, and the settler has a -great deal of trouble in removing them. - -The land about Saint’s farm, when not inundated, was very fertile, and -required little labor. It produced splendid oaks, black and white -hickory, and sassafras, which last, though covering the land with -bushes, often grows to a large tree. Creepers of all sorts abounded in -the woods, amongst which were three sorts of wild vines, the first -producing a purple summer grape, which ripens in July, and resembles the -cultivated grape, except in being smaller and somewhat sour; the second, -winter grapes, also dark, and not ripe till they have been touched by -the frost,--properly speaking it is not a grape, and the berry is more -like a currant; last and best are the muscadines. These do not grow in -bunches, but more like cherries, four or five on a stem; they are -purple, with a thick skin, and a very agreeable taste, but if indulged -in too freely, they are said to produce ague, an opinion in which I -agree. Indeed, some of my attacks must be laid to their account; -quantities of muscadines grew where we were at work, and I ate a great -many of them. They ripen in September, and when they fall, they are -greedily sought for by pigs, bears, opossums, raccoons, and turkeys. - -As we had had hard work for some days, I resolved on taking a holiday, -and riding to the gunsmith’s, about twelve miles off, to get some -repairs to my rifle. When I awoke in the morning, I had a dreadful -head-ache, but I got up, and mounted the horse, hoping to drive away the -pain with the fresh morning air. I had hardly gone a mile, when I was -seized with such a giddiness, that I could with difficulty keep my seat. -I galloped back as fast as possible, and crept shivering under my -buffalo-skin, but the ague crept in with me and kept me there all that -day and night. The next morning I was so much worse, that I thought my -last hour was approaching. I took one of the emetics I had brought with -me from Cincinnati, but without effect; the fever changed from cold to -hot, and increased every hour. On the nights of the 16th and 17th of -September, I was delirious; what I may have said I know not, as they -told me that I spoke German. - -Saint could not procure a doctor. The nearest lived twenty miles off, -and was seldom at home: this probably saved my life, for had I fallen -into the hands of one of these American quacks, I might have prepared -for my last journey. Saint happened to have some pills in the house, -made by J. Sappington, and gave me one. Whether it was from the pill, or -my own good constitution, I was better on the 18th, and could move about -the house, and enjoy a little food, after my four days’ fast; I was very -weak for a long time. I must ever remember with gratitude the kind -interest with which these worthy Americans attended and nursed the poor -stranger. - -It was by no means agreeable to remain ill in the swamps, having shortly -before heard accounts of burials, which left it out of all doubt that -some of the poor creatures supposed to be dead had been buried alive. -Mrs. S. spoke of one case in particular, on the St. Francis river, where -the ground was so wet and swampy, that the man’s comrades, for they were -out on a shooting excursion, put the body into a canoe, and brought it -down to the place where the Saints then lived, and where the land was -dry. On account of the greater heat in the southern States, they do not -stand on so much ceremony with a dead body, as is the case in the -north: so, as soon as they could after landing, they placed it in a -grave, which they dug with the assistance of the inhabitants of the -place. Mrs. S. assured me that she had never seen such a corpse. His -limbs were quite pliant, and almost warm, and his cheeks still red; but -the cold earth soon covered him, and nothing was ever said on the -subject. - -By the 29th September I was pretty well again, and helped S. to get in -the corn from the more distant field; but as it came on to rain, I was -none the better for it. On the first October an old man from Tennessee -came with his son to the marshes to buy cattle. We mounted to drive them -together that they might see them, for at this season, when the grass is -everywhere in abundance, the beasts do not remain in one place, but are -one day here, the next day there. There cannot be a better place in the -world for cattle than the marshes. In summer the woods are filled with -pea-vine as high as the knees, as well as with the finest grass, wild -oats, and wild rye; in the winter the evergreen canebrakes afford the -finest pasture for cattle and deer, and winter grass grows in many parts -of the marshes. - -We worked our way through thorns and creepers, reeds and forests, and -almost impenetrable sassafras bushes, and came back without having seen -a single horn. One of the consequences was that I was again laid up, but -this time I had a companion in the young stranger, who had thus to pay -his footing in the swamps. On the second day he was so ill that his life -was despaired of; but at last he recovered. - -On the 7th October I rode for the sake of exercise, towards a settlement -about twelve miles off. It began to get dark when I reached the house -of a Mrs. Lane, who seeing me look so wretched and worn, kindly invited -me to rest there. Mrs. Lane might be held up as a good specimen of -American women. She was very simply dressed, but in good taste, and -every thing in the house, where she lived with her two daughters, -remarkably pretty girls, was scrupulously neat and clean. - -They listened with pleasure to my accounts of distant Europe, the sort -of life people led there, the luxury of the rich and the misery of the -poor, particularly in large towns, the general fondness for society, and -the good qualities of many of all stations, high and low; they shook -their heads and said, “The other side of the great ocean must be a -curious place!” It was late when I rolled myself in a blanket before the -fire, to sleep sweetly and calmly during the night. In the morning my -headache returned, and shivering limbs announced the enemy. There was no -time for delay; I buckled the girths with trembling hands, and went in -to take leave: the kind folks had some hot coffee ready for me, which -might delay but could not prevent the attack. I went on about three -miles to the smithy, and explained my wishes, and then turned the -horse’s head toward the house of Mr. Dunn: how I got there is more than -I can say,--I have a faint remembrance of a piercing headache, and -dreadful weakness--that I often lay upon the horse’s neck, when the -gentle animal stood still, and did not move till I could sit upright -again. Dunn’s house was about three miles from the smith’s; on arriving, -I slipped off rather than dismounted. The old man soon saw what was the -matter with me, and bringing out a glass of some green liquid, he made -me take a good gulp of it: its excessive bitterness seemed to cut me in -two, and I asked with horror what was the stuff he had given me. He -laughed at the face I made, and told me it was something quite new and -his own invention: it was bear’s gall and whiskey, and he was not a -little proud of his medicine. I slept well during the night, and -returned to S.’s next day. I was very sorry not to have been in better -condition on the evening that I passed at Dunn’s, for he was a good old -fellow, and very amusing with his dry stories. - -On the evening of the 18th October, S. came back from Strong’s, where he -had bought a couple of negro children, and brought them home on a led -horse. One was a boy about fifteen years old, as black as pitch, and -with a regular Ethiopian cast of countenance; as he crossed the -threshold, he examined every one present, with a rapid glance of his -large dark eyes, and then looked unconcernedly at all the furniture, -&c., as if all that was of no consequence to him. The other was a little -girl of about eleven, who seemed already to have gone through some hard -work. When she saw so many strange faces, a tear glittered in her eyes: -she had been sold away from her parents, whom she would probably never -more behold, and stood an image of suppressed grief. The boy was from -Maryland, had been taken by sea to New Orleans, and from thence brought -here. He had been told that he had fallen to a kind master, and his -countenance seemed to say that was enough, happen what might. - -On the following Sunday, I had another attack of ague, which I could -not shake off for some days. In the evening two strangers arrived; and -although they came from opposite directions, they seemed to be well -acquainted, as they frequently conversed in a whisper. After supper, -when we were in the second house, where we all slept, they consulted -together about their future plans, which consisted in no less than their -travelling about the country, and keeping a gaming table, pretending all -the while to be unknown to each other, and so playing into each other’s -hands: their designs were to be principally carried on among the -Indians, particularly the Cherokees, as they thought they were more -easily cheated than the whites. But perhaps the two scoundrels had not -been able to agree, for on the following morning they parted, one of -them passing off a false five-dollar note on S., who was not a little -annoyed when he some time afterwards made the discovery. I was about to -ride in the same direction that the other fellow took, and when he saw -my horse saddled, he expressed his delight at having the pleasure of my -company; but I said dryly: “I am not going to ride with a scoundrel.” At -the word “scoundrel,” he flew into a rage, and began to feel for his -knife or pistol, on which I quietly brought my rifle to my shoulder: he -bit his lip and rode off at a sharp trot. After waiting a short time I -followed, taking the route to Cash river to bring home some dogs, for S. -and I saw nothing more of him. - -Arkansas was overrun at this time with a number of bad characters, -gamblers, drunkards, thieves, murderers, who all thought that the -simple-minded backwoodsmen were easier to be cheated than the wary -settlers in the older states. This circumstance had given so bad a name -to Arkansas, that many thought all its inhabitants went about armed to -the teeth with pistols and bowie-knives; but I have traversed the State -in all directions, and met with as honest and upright people as are to -be found in any other part of the Union. - -On the 24th October, two heavily laden carts arrived, each drawn by one -horse: they contained all sorts of things useful for settlers. Their -owners are called peddlers, and they ask high prices for their goods, -and are said to make a good thing of it. S. bought only a few trifles. - -S. having sold most of his cattle, decided on parting with this farm, -and removing to Oiltrove bottom. Our contract having been dissolved by -Uhl’s departure and my frequent sickness, was no longer to be thought -of. Preparations were made for moving; S. had been already to White -river and made his purchase. When about to start, we found that two more -oxen were necessary: we had four, but the load was too heavy with such -soft boggy roads. So we rode into the woods, and drove a couple of wild -bulls into the inclosure, threw nooses over their horns, and fastened -them to trees. They made tremendous efforts to free themselves, jerking -the leather thongs with all their force; and when they found all their -struggles were in vain, they threw themselves on the ground and bellowed -with rage. Thus they remained all the day and night, during which we -gave them nothing but a little water to quench their thirst. About nine -o’clock next morning they were yoked each with a steady old hand; the -whips cracked, voices shouted, and partly from the shower of blows that -fell on them, partly dragged along by their stout companions, after four -or five hours’ useless opposition, they went as well as if they had done -nothing all their lives but draw a cart. - -The heavy wagon made slow progress along the muddy tracts, softened by -the autumnal rains. We arrived at White river on the morning of the 4th -November, and had to wait on the bank till evening, as it was blowing a -storm, and it would have been dangerous to trust the heavy wagon to the -ferry-boat in such weather. - -White river is beyond all dispute the most beautiful river of Arkansas. -Its clear waves form a striking contrast to those of the Mississippi and -Red river; only towards its mouth the banks are low, and the land -swampy; higher up it is enclosed by picturesque hills. It rises in the -Ozark mountains, in the north-west angle of the State, where there is -game in abundance; it divides into two arms, one of which falls into the -Mississippi, and the other into the Arkansas. - -As the wind fell, the dry cold air changed into a damp fog, which soon -turned to rain, and we were glad to find shelter under the roof of a -free negro, who kept a sort of tavern. Merry peals of laughter resounded -from the well-lighted room, where a bright fire was blazing, and very -comfortable did its warmth appear to us after our exposure to the -weather. Three jovial looking fellows were sitting round it, telling -stories, and roaring with laughter. Three long American rifles, with -their shot-belts hanging on them, leaning in a corner, showed that the -party, if not regular woodsmen, were at least out on a shooting -excursion. A half empty whiskey-bottle stood on the table, and after a -short conversation, I learnt that the little fat man, with sparkling -eyes and ruby nose, sitting enjoying himself in the corner, and making -constant love to the whiskey-bottle, was Magnus the distiller, who, with -a couple of friends, was on his way to the swamps from whence we came, -for the sake of buffalo hunting. The little man drank my health, and -amused me very much with his drolleries. He could think of nothing but -buffaloes, swore only by buffaloes, made bets in buffalo-skins, -estimated every thing by their value, and tormented the small modicum of -understanding which the whiskey had left in his brains, to devise how he -should be able to transport at the greatest advantage the skins of all -the buffaloes he meant to kill. - -It was all in vain that I attempted to give him an idea of the almost -impenetrable swamps, of the difficulty of finding the few buffaloes -which were there, and of the almost impossibility when found of bringing -their skins or any other part away; his countenance bore the same -joyous, amicable expression as before. When I had finished my remarks, -he handed me the bottle, which I put to my lips without drinking. In a -voice trembling with emotion, he assured me that he was prepared to -venture every thing, even life itself, for the sake of killing a -buffalo, and when life was at stake, who could take into consideration a -few insignificant swamp-holes or thorns! And then, as it struck him -that he was a father of a family, his voice became weaker and more -tremulous, his emotion increased, a flood of tears gushed from his eyes, -and before I was aware, the little round figure was hanging to my neck. -The heavy weight forced from me a sigh, which he took for sympathy, and -he began to squeeze so hard that I was afraid I should be suffocated, -when his two friends, who had been more moderate with the bottle, sprang -to my rescue. But this was no easy matter, and as he clung to me he -cried out, “Let me alone! he’s my friend--he, he will save me!” I -escaped from him by a sudden wrench, and his companions carried him off -to bed, he all the while throwing about his little fat arms and legs, -and calling them good-for-nothing buffalo dogs. Then he again began to -whine and cry, the sounds changing gradually, first into a groan and -then into a snore. - -We arrived at the new farm about noon next day, and found the former -proprietors loading their wagon. They took their leave in the afternoon, -and left as a memorial an incredible quantity of dirt. As soon as our -wagon was cleared, and the things under cover, S. returned with the two -drivers for another load, leaving me in the house alone. It was in the -midst of a thick forest, with a field of about seven acres, surrounded -by the largest trees. But I had not much time to contemplate the -beauties of Nature, for in unloading and stowing away, the hours had -flown on the wings of the wind. The sun had set before I had collected -wood from the forest to keep up a fire for the night, or had had time to -prepare my supper; the latter duty did not take long, for my whole -store of provisions consisted of maize flour, dried venison, and wild -honey. - -Darkness, thick darkness, lay upon the slumbering earth: yielding up my -imagination to memorials of old times, I drew the solitary chair to the -blazing fire, took out my zither, and with soft mournful tones, soothed -the home-sickness, which in loneliness forces itself on the heart. After -a time, overcome by fatigue, I extended myself on my buffalo skin before -the fire, and soon a succession of fantastic dreams flitted across my -brain. The little fat distiller sat with me and mine in a garden at -Leipzig, relating all the hardships and dangers which he had undergone -at the buffalo hunt, while my dear mother listened to him with -astonishment: many other loved forms were sitting round a large table, -each with their coffee before them, when we were all disturbed by a loud -knocking at the gate, and started up to see what was the matter, except -the little distiller, who laughingly told us it was only a tame buffalo -that he had tied up at the gate. The knocking growing louder and louder, -I jumped up in alarm: the fire was burnt out, thick darkness surrounded -me, but the repeated loud knocking shook off the remains of sleep, and I -hastened to the door. - -One of the drivers who had left the day before, stepped into the room, -his teeth chattering with ague. I made haste to light the fire, which -soon burnt up brightly, and then looked to my patient, who had sunk down -on a chair, telling me with a weak voice that his last hour was come. -Luckily, I had some coffee at hand, and made him drink a couple of cups -as hot as possible, sweetened with honey. He then threw himself on the -skin and was soon asleep. Next day he was somewhat better, and we passed -the time as well as we could, till S. should come with his second load. -I employed myself in collecting wood for the fire, and in shooting -turkeys, to make our provisions last. After a week, during the last days -of which we had lived on turkeys and pumpkins, taking the latter, which -were very sweet and delicate, from the field of a neighbor at no great -distance, S. arrived with the rest of his property, cows, horses, pigs, -geese, cats, chickens, and dogs. Then there was all the bustle of -arranging and settling, and then another attack of ague, which seemed -regularly to have fixed itself on me in this unhealthy country. I bore -up against it, but was not well enough to mount a horse till the 20th -November, when I took a ride of four or five miles with my rifle, for a -breath of fresh air. - -These swamps and morasses partly realize the idea which Europeans -entertain of the primitive forest, but in which they are frequently -deceived, for the simple reason, that on the higher dry grounds which -are covered with dry leaves and wood, fires are often made, not only by -shooting parties, but by the settlers, for the sake of the grass, which -comes up all the sooner when all these enormous quantities of leaves, -&c., have been burnt; and the fire does not consume the young plants -only, but considerably checks the growth of the older trees, excepting -in the marshes, where the ground even in summer is moist; and there the -trees grow to a colossal grandeur--I have seen some measuring seven, -eight, and even nine feet in diameter. - -Towards evening I saw a young buck, walking quietly and circumspectly -through the wood; I dismounted, and left the horse to graze at leisure, -while I crept nearer. He stopped when he saw the horse pawing the -ground, raised his handsome head, and snuffed the air; my ball whistled -through his ribs, and he fell lifeless to the ground. Weak as I was, it -was some time before I could lift the not very large animal on to the -horse, when I rode slowly homewards. Just before dark, I shot a turkey -with the other barrel, and did not load again, not expecting to get -another shot so late in the evening. The full moon set its soft silvery -light among the dark shadows of the trees, to point out my path. I might -have ridden for about an hour and a half through the thick forest on my -heavily laden horse, and had gained a cattle track, which led to the -house; the stillness of the night was broken by the cow-bells, the -baying of the dogs and the neigh of my horse, in expectation of a good -supper, when there was a sudden rustling among the bushes on my right. I -pulled up, and a herd of swine rushed in wild haste across the path, -just in front of me. I was about to ride on, when I heard further -rustling amongst the dry leaves, and then one of the largest bears of -the swamps stood in the path, not above six paces from my horse’s nose. -He did not seem to know what to make of the figure looming through the -glade of the forest by the light of the moon, and began to snuff the -air. My rifle was not loaded, and the thought flashed upon me, that I -should have to fight it out with the knife; but I resolved first to try -and send him a bit of lead. I placed the butt of my gun on my left toe, -and succeeded in loading; but, as I was about to place the copper cap, -the horse, who had hitherto stood quite still, seemed inclined to -examine the object before him a little closer, and giving a snort he -made a step forward. Master Bruin, however, did not seem to like this, -and with one bound he was in the jungle. Having finished my loading, I -slipped off my horse, and crept into the bushes to get a shot, if -possible. I may have gone about twenty paces over the dry leaves, when I -stood still to listen. Not the slightest sound was to be heard; though I -was firmly convinced that the bear could not be above ten paces off, for -the leaves were so dry that if he had gone further I must have heard it. -I raised my foot gently to make another step forward, when the bear, who -had been standing so motionless before me that I took him for the root -of a fallen tree, almost brushed my face, and took himself off with a -growl; before I could recover from my surprise he had disappeared. - -I returned, quite disappointed, to my horse, who remained quietly -grazing, and rode away with two good resolutions in my head,--first, -never to go a step with my gun unloaded; secondly, to seek a nearer -acquaintance with Bruin on the morrow, if possible. - -On the 22nd November, I was early afoot, and although the weather was -cold and disagreeable, I set off with a neighbor and eleven dogs, full -of joyous hopes. - -Bear-shooting in America differs according to the time of the year, and -the habits of the animal. It was now late in the autumn, almost winter, -so that they could be hunted with dogs. Well mounted, with not less -than from four to about eight or ten dogs, the hunters seek in the -thickest and most unfrequented parts of the forest the favorite haunts -of the bear. The men ride slowly through the thorns and creepers, the -dogs seeking in all directions till they find a fresh trail, or a bear -breaks cover, when they follow up in full cry. If the bear is fat he -seldom runs far, but takes to a tree, or shows fight; if there are not -dogs enough to master him, he knocks them over and continues his flight. -If he takes to a tree, his fate is soon sealed by the rifle. - -We had ridden along quietly for about an hour, when the dogs gave -tongue, and started off, we after them as well as we could. My horse was -an old hand at it, and I had nothing to do but to sit fast as he leaped -the fallen trees, and try to avoid the creepers, which however often -checked, and sometimes threw us. - -Keeping up with the dogs was out of the question. I had long lost sight -of my companion; I listened, and it appeared that the bear had turned to -the left, towards the river; could he reach it he was safe,--it was too -cold for the dogs--besides, they would hardly venture to swim, and we -also must have remained on the bank. - -I changed my course to cut him off, and luckily hit upon one of the -cattle tracks that cross the wood in all directions. Once clear of the -thorns, we went at a good pace, and soon heard the pack approaching. -Suddenly the horse swerved to one side with a snort, and the bear burst -out of the thicket. The moment he saw the horse, he stopped short and -gave a deep growl. I had sprung off, and the bear had hardly - -[Illustration: BRUIN AT BAY.] - -stopped, when my ball was in his shoulder. The pack was close upon him, -and he summoned all his strength to escape from the dogs; but the -wounded shoulder checked his pace, the dogs attacked him, and he rose on -his hind legs to oppose them. I could not venture a second shot for fear -of injuring some of them, so charged him with my knife, and plunged it -from behind the shoulder into his heart; this, with the furious bites of -the dogs, soon ended his life. - -My companion arrived at this moment, tired to death, all torn with the -thorns, and his horse covered with foam. He was not a little vexed at -coming too late; however, he helped to break up the bear, and strip off -his skin,--and as each of us had a bag under the saddle, we divided the -prize, and rode slowly home. The carcase is always equally divided -amongst the hunters; the skin belongs to the first shot. - -[Illustration] - - - - -CHAPTER VII. - -WOODLAND SPORTS--CANE-BRAKES--MY EXAMINATION BY THE SCHOOL COMMISSION. - - Turkey hunting with dogs--American aptitude for barter--Hard life - in the woods--Ague--Wolves--Unhousing a bear--Number of widows in - the swamps--Postal system in the back states--Comfortable - quarters--My musical propensities--The Mississippi at - Memphis--Cincinnati and its German inhabitants--Our pill-box - manufactory--My speculations in reeds--Democrats in America--The - candidates for schoolmastership--My examination--Another cane - trip--Buffalo shooting. - - -The weather became worse every day. The cold north wind blew furiously -through the leafless boughs of the gigantic trees. All crowded together -round the warm hearth, and the European began to long for the solid -walls and warm rooms of his native land; for the wind blows, on all -sides, through the crevices of the American block-houses; and as they -are without windows, the door must be left open the livelong day to -admit the necessary light. Thus it may be imagined, that in spite of the -enormous fire, the temperature is not even moderate. In addition, we had -nothing to eat but bear’s flesh, three times a day; so I put on my thick -flannel hunting-shirt, took my rifle, and made up my mind to shoot a -turkey, whereat the dogs began bounding and barking for joy. - -Turkey hunting with dogs is one of the most amusing and convenient -sports in the world. As soon as the dogs find a _gang_, as they are -called, they run amongst them, barking furiously; although a turkey can -run fast, he cannot outrun a dog;--so by way of escape, he flies heavily -to the nearest tree, generally seeking the highest branches, and looks -inquisitively from his exalted station, on the dogs jumping and yelping -round the trunk. It now requires some good management on the part of the -sportsman, for should the turkey catch sight of him, he will fly away -again. The best plan is to make as much noise as possible, and, if the -party is large enough to surround the tree, or the gang, breaking -through the bushes with loud shouts; and while the bird is confused by -the strange noises, the sportsman, having got near enough, must slip -behind a tree. Then it requires a steady hand and correct eye to hit, -with a single ball, a turkey at the top of a tree, from 130 to 140 feet -high; it is not absolutely necessary that he be killed outright, for if -a wing is wounded, his heavy weight will infallibly kill him in his -fall. A hen turkey weighs from nine to fourteen pounds; the cock from -sixteen to twenty, and even twenty-four. I killed three, and returned -heavily laden home. - -On the 21st December came the last load from l’Anguille, and another -attack of ague for me. This was altogether too much,--I decided on -bidding adieu to the unhealthy swamps, and trying the hills, and on the -4th January put my plan in execution. Saint had taken a strong liking to -my double-barrelled rifle, and repeatedly wished to exchange something -for it. This system of exchange is quite a passion with the Americans; -they will barter any thing--lands, houses, horses, cattle, guns, -clothes, even to the shirt and boots they have on--or, if you prefer it, -they are just as willing to sell. Saint had a very good long rifle, and -we soon settled the matter, by my taking it, and a good sum into the -bargain. - -I soon found that I was no longer master of my former powers, as when I -knew the word “tired” only by name. Frequent attacks of ague had robbed -my muscles of their elasticity: with all my exertions, I could hardly -accomplish more than twenty miles the first day, and had enough to do to -make thirteen the next; in the evening, tired to death, I arrived at Von -G.’s, on the Little Red river. Next day it came on to rain heavily, and -I considered myself fortunate in having a good roof over my head. I -remained with Von G. till the 9th, when I went to my old friend Hilger. -I passed a few very pleasant weeks with him, helped the old fellow at -his work now and then, but generally went out turkey shooting. I was -treated as one of the family. But my restless spirit and desire for -change, which drove me away from every place where I had made friends, -would not allow me to remain here; I must away, for the peaceful life of -the happy family caused me mournful thoughts: to escape them, I -determined to return to the swamps, as in winter the danger was less -imminent. - -The Hilgers begged me to remain, but the spirit which possessed me was -too strong for them, and I took a warm leave of them all; the children, -however, would not hear of my departure, and the little three-year-old -girl was only to be pacified by a promise that she should go with me. -The dear little thing actually put on her bonnet, accompanied me for a -quarter of a mile, and then her brother had to carry her home by force; -my eyes moistened as she held forth her little hand, and called out my -name. - -On, on, without delay, till the evening of the 25th January saw me at -Bay de View, a little river running between, and parallel to, the Cash -and l’Anguille. I pitched my camp on one of the many old Indian -sepulchral mounds there. Deer and turkeys were plentiful, but, like the -little distiller, the idea of a buffalo hunt had got fixed in my head. -So on the 27th I followed the course of the stream, through the wild -forest, and at night, beside the crackling fire, gave myself up to -troubled thoughts. I had become so used to forest life, that I seldom -required the compass; in the level marshy land, with its straight -gigantic trees, the traveller can easily find his way by paying -attention to the moss, which grows much longer and fuller on the north -side than on the south. - -In a day or two it began to freeze; as the ground was covered with -water, in many places knee deep, the noise I made in breaking the ice -drove away all the game within hearing. On the 28th and 29th January, I -could not get a shot, and lived on the remains of a turkey, and some -maize I had in my pockets. On the 30th I had nothing but the maize, -which I roasted and devoured with the greatest appetite; but instead of -appeasing my hunger, it only served to excite it the more, and I began -seriously to chew tender stems of sassafras, in order to have something -in my stomach. - -My baggage was no great burden to me. At White river I had exchanged my -buffalo skin for a blanket--I had one spare shirt in my game-bag, with a -pair of rather woful looking socks, a small cord, a bullet mould, and a -few bits of lead; but my greatest incumbrance was the zither, which hung -over my shoulder. Yet it fully repaid me for all my trouble, when I -reposed by the fire after the day’s toil, and I never could have -prevailed on myself to leave it in the lurch. - -Towards evening, as, still suffering from raging hunger, I was looking -out for a dry spot to sleep on, I felt it growing colder every moment; I -made haste to light a good fire, and threw myself before it completely -exhausted. A hard frost came on, and a little later I was delighted to -see it begin to snow. I coiled myself up as well as I could and was soon -asleep. I was awakened in the night by the frightful howling of the -wolves, which probably had no better sport than myself, and I consoled -myself with the idea that perhaps they were only half as hungry. I got -up several times during the night to shake off the snow, and feed the -fire with the large logs I had collected the evening before; so that, -notwithstanding the severity of the cold, I enjoyed a comfortable -warmth. - -A bough breaking with the weight of snow, roused me out of my sleep, and -when I pulled the blanket from my eyes they were nearly blinded by the -bright reflection of the sun’s rays from the white surface. The snow -suited my purposes very well; I rubbed my hands and face with it, till -they were quite in a glow, and having no breakfast to cook, I was soon -on the march. Though weakened by my long fast, my good night’s rest and -reawakend hope inspired me with new force, and I lost no time in seeking -something to appease my ravenous appetite, as I roamed at random under -the heavily laden trees. The evening before, I had discovered, near my -sleeping place, an overcup oak, bearing sweet acorns, some of which I -gathered and devoured, so as not to leave my stomach entirely -unemployed. This tree grows to a great size, but only in the -marshes;--the leaves are small, and the acorn is covered by the cup, -with the exception of a small opening at the top, whence the name. It is -nearly round, and serves for food in case of need, being less bitter -than the common sort. Bears are particularly fond of it. - -I had not gone far from my bivouac when I came on the fresh trail of an -old buck, which I followed up swiftly and silently through snow half a -foot deep, passing several places where he had lain down. After -following the track for about three hours, it became confused, but as I -was forcing my way through a thickly tangled thorn-bush, the buck stood -before me, looking at me with inquiring eyes. Ere I could clear myself -of the good-for-nothing creepers, he was off again, leaving me to admire -the immense leaps he had made in the commencement of his flight; his -third leap had been over a bush from eight to nine feet high, and from -the spot where he took off to that where he lighted was about twenty -feet. I found that he had soon slackened his pace to a walk, so -quickening my steps, I followed him cautiously. I saw him a second time -standing in a thicket about a hundred paces off, and evidently on the -look-out; I had no hopes of getting nearer, so took steady aim and -fired: he gave a start on one side, then fled in wild haste through the -thick jungle. I was now certain of him, so loaded quietly and walked to -the spot where he had been standing. The snow was discolored with blood, -and a broad stripe of large dark red spots pointed out the path he had -taken. - -Being somewhat exhausted by the sharp pace, and wishing to allow the -poor beast to lie down in peace, I seated myself on a fallen tree. After -half an hour’s rest, I followed him again; unfortunately he had made for -the river, to lave his burning wound in its cool waves, and, having swum -across, he was lying dead on the snow, on the other side, in a pool of -blood. - -Had I not been half starved, I should not have thought of venturing into -the cold water; but necessity would admit of no hesitation. I bound -together some logs of decayed wood, as floating lightest, laid on the -raft my rifle, zither, blanket, hunting-shirt, powder-horn, gamebag, and -shirt, and stepped into the icy-cold water. I kept on my lower garments, -as they were already wet through from the small streams I had waded in -the course of the chase. I dipped my head as soon as I could, and then -swam across, pushing my raft before me. - -Shivering with cold, I had some difficulty in making a fire, on account -of the deep snow which covered every thing;--but I managed it at last -with the help of my tomahawk; dried myself, and having laid some steaks -on the fire, I devoured them ere they were well warmed through. - -The exertion of the chase and the cold bath was too much for my -weakened frame. I threw myself down by the fire, and soon felt another -attack of ague. The shivering fit lasted full two hours, and seemed the -worst I had ever experienced: it was succeeded by a hot fit, which made -me forget ice and snow. Towards evening I was somewhat better, but not -in condition to continue my journey; so I cleared away the snow, piled -it up like a wall to keep off the wind, collected a good store of wood -and slept calmly and sweetly through the night. Next day the ague had -left me, but I felt very weak, and remained all day extended before my -warm fire, enjoying my venison. Towards evening I took a little turn for -the sake of exercise, and to see if I could get a shot, returning to my -old quarters to sleep, and setting out next day for the long desired -buffalo. - -I struck off in a southerly direction, and had lounged along for about a -couple of hours, when I came to a place where at least twenty of these -creatures must have passed the previous night. I lost no time in -following the broad trail of the herd down the bank of the river. After -a time, the trail turned suddenly to the northward. As it grew dark, I -lighted a good fire and laid down, having cleared away the snow. It was -dreadfully cold. The wolves howled fearfully, but did not come near me. - -After a good breakfast, I again followed up the trail, which ran zigzag -and in all directions, and when I laid down again for the night I knew -that I could not be very far from my prey. I slept under the shelter of -a fallen tree, which kept off the wind, and the fire burnt brightly. -About midnight, the wind changed from north-west to south-west, of which -I did not much approve, for the sky foreboded a change. Dark masses of -cloud assembled in the south, and the air became perceptibly warmer. I -dreaded the consequences. - -On the 5th of February it began to thaw, yet I would not all at once -give up my hopes of the buffaloes, till several abortive attempts to -find the trail convinced me of the fruitlessness of further pursuit. -Shower followed shower. In a few hours all the beautiful snow had -disappeared, leaving a waste of waters, in which no trail was visible. - -I had now to ponder within myself what was best to be done, but the -approaching night soon settled that matter. The darkness and pouring -rain informed me that there was nothing to be attempted at present. A -fire was out of the question, and I cowered under a half-fallen tree, to -be sheltered as much as possible from the rain. I had some broiled -venison in my bag, but felt no appetite, and passed a miserable night, -shivering with cold. The wolves seemed almost tame, for some came within -a few paces of me, and howled awfully. I was in such a state of -despondency that I would not take the trouble to draw my knife, because -I should have had to move; besides, in the humor I was in, it almost -seemed that to be shaken by wolves till I was warm would have been -rather pleasant than otherwise. - -I did not close an eye the whole night, and longed eagerly for the first -gleam of day, which at last broke gloomily through the dark forest. - -The rain ceased, and a damp thin mist lay upon the swamp. I cut a slice -of venison, and all my salt being - -[Illustration: NOCTURNAL ENTERTAINMENT.] - -expended, sprinkled it with powder, and ate it, cold and dry as it was. - -The almost impenetrable swamps and the wretched weather, together with -my long solitude, had considerably cooled my shooting propensities, and -I resolved to seek human society. To get clear of the swamps as soon as -possible, I directed my steps to the north-east, towards the St. Francis -river, in hopes of finding letters from Cincinnati, or perhaps from -home, at Strong’s post-office, as I had written for them to be forwarded -there. - -A few dry strips of land ran across the country from north to south, the -intermediate spaces being about a foot or a foot and a half under water, -with here and there channels three or four feet deep. Worn out and -wretched as I felt from the frequent attacks of ague, I had twice to -swim through the icy water, but the word “must” carried me through. In -fact, I had the choice of that or perishing in the swamp. The first -alternative was merely disagreeable, while the latter was highly -objectionable; so I chose the former. - -I passed the night by a warm fire, at which I roasted a turkey I had -shot. It was at any rate an improvement on its predecessor, and my -zither responded through the forest to the voices of the owls and -wolves. - -Next morning I resumed my north-east direction with fresh strength, and -was not a little surprised about nine o’clock by a smell of smoke. Soon -afterwards I came on the fresh remains of a fire. The impressions on the -leaves showed clearly enough that only one person had lain there, and -that he had four dogs with him. About twenty paces from the fire some -grains of Indian corn were scattered about, and a tree showed signs that -a horse, who had left unmistakable marks of his teeth in the bark, had -been tethered there. - -According to appearances, this person had not left his halting-place -above an hour, and as the dew and hoar frost still lay on the leaves and -grass, his trail towards the south-east was easily traceable. After -following for a short distance, I heard a shot, hastened towards the -sound, and came up just as the object of my search was mounting his -horse. A broken-up deer was hanging to a tree, and four dogs came -barking towards me. It turned out to be a man of the name of Pearce, a -dweller in the neighborhood, with whom I was slightly acquainted. We -greeted each other heartily, and were mutually delighted at the chance -meeting, he assuring me that nothing could have given him greater -pleasure than falling in with me, as he had discovered a tree a few days -back in which the marks left it out of doubt that a bear must be -concealed. He had killed the deer as he came along, and hung it up, -intending to carry it home on his return. I readily accepted his -proposal to join him, and we hastened towards Brushy lake, which we soon -reached, but too far south;--so we had to go up the stream. - -As we were both tired, we bivouacked early in the afternoon, on an -elevated tract of land, and stretched ourselves comfortably before a -warm fire. I had half a turkey remaining, and Pearce had bear, deer, and -coffee, so I need hardly say that we made a good dinner. - -We passed a quiet night, and the sun was well up before we commenced our -march. About ten o’clock P. pointed out a large cypress close to the -bank of the river, assuring me that the bear was there. The tree may -have been about four feet in diameter, and there were very distinct -traces of a bear’s claws in the bark. P. had intended to smoke out the -sleeper; but that would have required much time, and as we were now two, -and the tree was quite hollow at the base, we resolved to cut it down -with our tomahawks. Securing the horse at a safe distance, we set to -work, and the forest soon resounded with the strokes of our small axes. -About two o’clock we paused to take a little refreshment; the dogs, -meantime, tired of waiting, amused themselves in chasing rabbits and -raccoons. - -We had hardly recommenced our work, when P. cried, “Look out! the bear!” -At the first word I had seized my rifle. The bear was down the tree like -a flash of lightning; to fire, drop the gun, out knife, and at him, was -the work of an instant for each of us; but he slipped off like an eel -from between us, and our knives had nearly found a different sheath; so -exactly had our shots fallen together, that neither knew the other had -fired. - -The bear, so discourteously roused from his winter sleep, could not at -first make out the reason. But the approach of the dogs, attracted by -the shots, soon caused him to take to flight. P., rifle in hand, threw -himself on his horse, and galloped after them, I following, with my -drawn knife, as fast as my legs would carry me. The bear, severely -wounded, did not run far, and finding the dogs gaining on him, he took -to a tree. P. sprang off his horse and loaded, and I came up just in -time to see the bear, struck by his unerring ball, spring up, turn over, -cling for a moment with both paws, then fall heavily to the ground. The -dogs threw themselves on him, while we plunged our knives into his chest -with a shout of joy. The first two balls had hit him in the flank, while -the third from P.’s hand had lodged in his heart. - -As it was too late in the day to travel further, we returned to the -place where my rifle and some of P.’s things were left, collected wood, -made a capital fire, and prepared a splendid supper. As P. had been some -days in the woods, we had finished his coffee in the morning; so, by way -of something hot to wash down the meat, I pulled up some sassafras -roots, cut them up into small pieces, and made a very good substitute -for tea. - -Refreshed by our hard-earned meal, we enveloped ourselves in our -blankets, and chatted together before the fire: P. telling me about the -winter sleep of the bears. Towards the end of the year, they select a -hollow tree for the purpose, scratching and biting the inside as smooth -and clean as possible. This done, they descend into it, about Christmas -time, tail downwards, and remain immovable, if not disturbed, till the -end of February or middle of March, when they come out for a drink of -water, returning to their retreat till the weather is mild, and they can -gain their ordinary livelihood. Sometimes, instead of a tree, they -select a cane-brake, breaking and biting off the canes to form a bed. - -The nearest house lay about ten miles north-east from our bivouac, and -through the worst part of the swamp; but once there, I had hopes of -being able to walk on firm ground, instead of floundering through water -and mud. - -After some hours’ agreeable repose, both of us having risen to make up -the fire afresh, and just laid down again, we were suddenly alarmed by a -most tremendous crash, which made us start up. The tree which we had -been hacking at, and then thought no more about, was overthrown by the -rising wind; but this wind saved us, for as it blew in the opposite -direction to our fire, the tree fell from us--otherwise we might have -paid dearly for our carelessness. As it happened to fall across the -river, it made a very good bridge for me on the following morning. The -dogs had dropped their tails, and started off at the very first crack. - -We were up with the day. P. packed his bear on the horse, and made me -promise to come and see him when the swamps should be dry, to join in a -buffalo hunt. Taking a hearty leave of him I set off to the north-east. -After three hours’ marching up to the knees, and sometimes to the waist, -in water, I came on the broad road leading to Memphis, and turned to the -eastward. In the afternoon I arrived at S.’s old farm, and walked half a -mile further, to sleep at McO.’s, dwelling with pleasure all the while -on the hopes of a warm bed, a sound roof, and the society of -fellow-creatures. - -McO. gave me a warm reception, doing every thing to make me comfortable: -his wife came in later, having taken a ride to pay a visit to a couple -of widows. It is a remarkable fact that such a number of widows are -found in the swamps. Wherever you go, you are sure to see one at the -least, and I think “Mr. Weller” would have felt very uncomfortable in -this part of the world. Doubtless the climate is better suited to women -than to men, as the latter almost always die first. - -We were merrily chatting by the cheerful fire when suddenly the doorway -was darkened. I turned to look at the new comer, and who should it be -but the Methodist preacher. One night later, and I should have been out -of his reach. - -As the sun rose I started, quite refreshed, and before sunset arrived at -Strong’s post-office, on the St. Francis. Communication by letter would -be impossible in the thinly settled Western States, did not one of the -farmers undertake the office of post-master. One is appointed for each -county, but their duties are not severe. A postman, or mail rider as he -is called, traverses the county on horseback, sleeping at certain fixed -stations. The mail rider from Memphis, in Tennessee, with a pack-horse -in addition, carries the mail for Little Rock and Batesville to Strong’s -post-office, about forty miles, taking back the return bags; from -Strong’s, one rider goes to Batesville, and another to Little Rock. I -found a letter from Vogel, requesting me to return to Cincinnati, and -telling me that three letters had arrived for me from Germany. - -The following morning found me on the other side of the St. Francis, -traversing the swamp which Uhl and I had had such trouble to cross nine -months ago. Although still soft and muddy, it was not quite so bad as on -the previous occasion. I gained the banks of the lake about dusk, and -hailed the ferryman. He was not the man who kept it when we first came -here. As the sky looked suspicious, I decided on passing the night in -the house. My host was a young man, with no one but a negro boy to -attend him; yet there was society enough in front of the house, for on -the spot where Uhl and I had bivouacked, three families were encamped, -all bound for Texas. - -As we were about to go to sleep, an old man came in, saying that he was -not quite well, and could not bear the night air, and requesting -permission to sleep in the house. On leave being granted, he spread his -blanket before the fire, sat himself on it, and clasping his left knee -with both hands, fixed his eyes steadfastly on the blazing logs. The -negro boy sat in the chimney corner, staring at the old man, who at -first took no notice of him, but after a time he turned suddenly towards -him, saying,--“Here, good lad, I am subject to shocking bad dreams; if I -begin to talk, and throw my arms about, will you give me a good -shaking?” The boy nodded, and the old man became a much more important -personage in his estimation. “But I sleep very sound, you must shake me -well.” The boy nodded again. “If you do it well, I will give you -sixpence.” The boy grinned as well as nodded. The man lay down on his -blanket, and the boy watched him as a cat watches a mouse. I could not -sleep, and turned and turned in vain; at length I heard a groan. I -thought of the old fellow and his contract with the boy, and looked to -see if the latter was awake. He was on his knees watching his charge -with all his might. The man uttered some broken words, and raised both -his arms. The boy had only waited for this; he had him by the shoulder -in an instant, and shaking him with all his force, called out, “Master, -master--open your eyes, master.” The man awoke, and saying, “Thank you,” -was about to turn on the other side, which did not suit the boy: he -shook him again. “I tell you I am awake; do you want to shake the soul -out of me?” and he tried to get to sleep. But Sambo shook him again, so -that he started up in a rage, asking, “What do you go on shaking me for, -when I am wide awake?” The boy jumped back, frightened by the -threatening expression of the old fellow, and said, trembling, -“I--I--I--want that sixpence!” Altogether, it was too much for my -gravity, and I burst into a roar of laughter; the two managed to settle -their differences, and I soon afterwards fell asleep. - -I was early on the march, and arrived towards evening at a neat -comfortable looking house, surrounded by large fields of cotton and -Indian corn, betokening the abode of a rich planter; on receiving a -friendly affirmative to my inquiry for night quarters, I placed my rifle -and game bag in the corner, and sat myself on an easy chair by the fire. - -Strangers inquiring for night quarters must never suppose that they are -to receive them gratuitously. The usual price for supper, bed, and -breakfast--be the same good or bad--is half a dollar; but at Strong’s I -had to pay a dollar, which was an imposition. The charge for a horse -depends on the neighborhood, and the price of Indian corn. In the swamps -it was half a dollar; in Oiltrove Bottom, only a quarter, corn being -cheap there; further south, the charge was higher, and to the north-east -again it was cheaper. - -On my entrance, I perceived that there were ladies in the house. I had -been for some time alone, and as it grew dark, having had enough of my -own thoughts, I took out my zither, and began to play. A negro boy, -enticed into the room by the music, soon ran out again, probably to tell -his mistress what a curious sort of instrument I was playing upon. I -soon had an invitation to join the ladies; but my costume was not the -most suitable for a drawing-room. For months, neither razor nor scissors -had approached my head: my hunting-shirt had been ten months in wear, -sorely battered by wind and weather, and not being of leather, the -thorns had left their marks in many places: my leggins and water-proof -boots were passable: my shirt, of my own washing without soap, in cold -water, boasted various shades of red, from turkey’s and bear’s blood, -which is much more difficult to wash out than that of deer. - -The ladies received me very politely, almost too politely, and I began -to play. The Americans in general have little feeling for German music; -they are a people who live in a hurry, and every thing must go fast, -even music: when they hear any which has not the time of a reel or -hornpipe, they say that they do not understand it. The more educated -class forms an exception, and of such was my audience. The younger lady -was the owner’s wife, very pretty, though pale; but, indeed, I should -like to know how any one could live in these vile swamps without being -pale. The elder, a kindly, venerable matron, seemed to be on a visit; -they were simply but tastefully dressed, as is the case with all -American women, even of the lowest classes; every thing in the room -seemed neat and orderly. I passed a few very agreeable hours there; they -were very much pleased with the instrument, having seen nothing like it -before; and as they listened with marked pleasure to the sweet German -and Scottish airs, it seemed as if they could never have enough of it, -and it was past eleven before I got to bed. There was a piano in the -room, but it had not been played upon sufficiently to perfect its tone. - -It was long since I had enjoyed the pleasure of accomplished society, -and I shall never forget my friendly reception by this family. - -From hence, to Memphis was thirteen miles, with a good road, and by two -in the afternoon I was again on the waves of the Mississippi. The ferry -carried me over to Tennessee, Arkansas lay behind me, and once more I -returned to civilized society from the wild life of the backwoods; but -who can decide whether to a happier one. My funds had fallen so low that -I was obliged to look out for work. The banks of the Mississippi are so -high and steep at Memphis, at the mouth of the Wolf river, that the town -cannot be seen from the stream. The steamers deliver their passengers -and cargoes on board wharf-boats, formed of used-up steamboats moored to -the banks. - -The times were hard: I could obtain no other work than to cut wood, -which, with my weak health and unpractised hand, was certainly no -trifle; but necessity is a good teacher. I gained half a dollar and food -by cutting a cord of wood, eight feet long, four feet high, and four -feet deep, at a merchant’s, who had a tract of land and a saw-mill about -two miles from the town. Although hard work at first, yet when I got -used to it, I found that on an average I could cut and pile a cord a -day. - -After fourteen days’ hard work, I resolved to go to Cincinnati for my -letters, and, above all, to recover my health in its superior climate, -then to return and visit the hills. I had cut eighteen cords, and as the -man saw that I was poor, sickly, and in a hurry to go away, he cheated -me out of two dollars by giving me bad coin, a fact which I discovered -on board the “Persian” steamer, on my passage to Cincinnati. I was -kindly received by all my old friends, and established myself in a new -suit of clothes, for which, however, I had to run in debt. - -I looked about for work; every tavern in the place was crammed full of -Germans, ready to do any thing for bare food: whole families were in a -helpless state. Fine stories had been told them that they could gain a -dollar a day for every sort of work, and when they arrived, farmers were -paying only five or six dollars a month, and could not employ four -fifths of the applicants. I pitied the poor creatures, though no better -off myself. I took many a long walk in vain, looking for employment, -when Vogel offered me an occupation I should never have thought of -myself, viz., making pill-boxes. Vogel thought he would try “Emperor’s -Pills,” of which he had the prescription. He was very clever in such -matters, but he required little round boxes, resembling the original as -imported. We set to work with a will; a carpenter was found to plane -the chips, we formed the tops and bottoms with a stamp, and I colored -the sides with logwood. The pill-box manufacture was soon in full play, -and I made them as if I had done nothing else all my life. But all -things must have an end, even the manufacture of pill-boxes, and my -genius was again left fallow. Vogel came once more to my assistance, and -I became a chocolate maker, gaining a dollar a day by pounding it in an -iron mortar. - -Shortly afterwards I heard of a dealer in tobacco who was out of -pipe-stems. These pipe-stems are made from the reeds or canes growing on -the banks of rivers, and other moist places in the Southern States, and -as all the rivers had risen very high, he could find no one to venture -among the snakes and mosquitoes. This was something more in my way than -sitting behind a pestle and mortar. - -I bargained with a companion, and, with a few dollars in our pockets to -cover the most necessary expenses, we started off for Tennessee, by the -“Algonquin.” There were plenty of canes at one of the places where the -vessel stopped for wood; I jumped on shore, and the owner of the wood, -who dwelt in a small house close at hand, agreed to board and lodge us -at two dollars a head per week. We at once landed our baggage, and set -to work next morning. - -These reeds grow in immense thickets on the banks of the Mississippi; -but we only cut the smallest for pipe-stems. They were about the -thickness of a large quill just above the root, from four to six feet -long, the joints being from eight to sixteen inches. The leaves are -green in summer and winter, and serve as fodder for cattle. We stripped -off the leaves, and bound the reeds in bundles of 500, which make a good -armful, and rather a heavy one when green. We sold them in Cincinnati -for two and a half dollars a bundle. - -The man on whom we had so summarily quartered ourselves was very civil -and obliging, and we were soon good friends. To enliven the long -evenings, he luckily happened to have a pack of cards, and a relation of -his, who lived at some distance, used to come in and play whist. I often -wished that our friends at home could have seen us, so as to have an -idea of the difference of a whist party in Germany and one near a -cane-brake in Tennessee: ours had at least the advantage of simplicity. -A very roughly hewn table was placed in the middle of the room, the -seats were chairs or boxes. It happened that the mosquitoes were more -formidable here than I ever found them anywhere else; and as it would -have been quite impossible to sit still under the constant attacks of -these tormentors, an iron pot with glowing charcoal was placed under the -table; a negro boy from time to time fed it with rotten wood, in order -to keep up a thick smoke, which rose up all round the table, and was by -no means beneficial to the eyes. - -Instead of wax candles, a long stick was jammed between two of the -boards of the floor; pork fat was then cut in long strips, wound round -with cotton rags, tied to the stick at a moderate height, and lighted. -It burnt rather dim, but gave light enough to show whether the colors -were red or black, when the card was not dirtier than usual, and the -smoke was not so strong as to draw tears. - -We had also great fun in harpooning buffalo-fish, which make for the -swamps when the river is high. The land here, at 100 to 150 paces from -the river, is lower than the bank; it is covered with water in winter -and spring, and dries up in summer, generating fever and disease, -besides myriads of mosquitoes and other insects. One afternoon, in the -space of two hours and a half, I caught fifteen fish, of which the -smallest weighed about ten pounds. - -Towards the end of April, having cut 18,000 canes, we hailed the next -boat that passed, embarked our cargo, and landed at Cincinnati on the -30th. Our canes were soon sold, and they were still in demand. I had a -great mind to make another voyage, but resolved next time to go alone; -for though I found my companion very willing to share the gains, he was -by no means so ready to share the pains. For the present, however, I -preferred staying a short time at Cincinnati and amusing myself. - -I happened to fall in with some of my Jewish fellow passengers on board -the “Constitution.” Acting on the instructions of their friends and -countrymen at New York, they had begun to trade in a small way; all had -gained something, and some few had become comparatively rich. They -generally begin as peddlers, stopping at every farmhouse, and the farmer -is obliged to buy something to get rid of them. - -As the rivers were still rising, I made a second trip to the canes. I -had paid all my debts, and had something in hand. Towards the end of -May, I embarked on board the “Mediator,” with the intention of going -further south than before, as the canes there are larger, and I could -cut some for fishing rods, from thirty to forty feet long, and 1½ to two -inches thick. - -What a view presented itself on leaving the Ohio for the Mississippi! Of -Cairo, a small town on a point of land in Illinois, nothing was to be -seen, except a hotel, a manufactory, and a brick house. In August the -water subsided, and the river returned to its bed, leaving a thick layer -of sticky mud behind it. The sides were all under water, except some -hills on the left bank, but no canes grew there, and it was not till I -reached Louisiana, where the “levee” begins, that I found dry land. To -avoid being carried to New Orleans, I landed at random, and found myself -in a French settlement with numerous plantations close to each other. I -learned from a Creole that there was a German settlement further down -the river, and thither I directed my steps, to hear something about the -country. I fell in with a German planter, and he directed me to a German -inn-keeper still further on. I received a cordial welcome from him; he -offered me his boat to row over to the opposite bank, where I could cut -as many canes as I chose. - -Next morning I made a voyage of discovery, and found a beautiful -country, but mostly under water, even to the canes, which grow on the -highest parts of the marshes; wherever there was a spot of dry land, it -swarmed with all sorts of snakes, and the air was thick with mosquitoes. -However, here I was, and work I must. I cut down a great number of -beautiful fishing-rods, bound them together, and laid them on one of -the highest spots, ready to carry across in a larger boat. - -I passed some pleasant weeks here, partly in the society of my -countrymen, and partly engaged in my work, and at last embarked with my -goods, on board the steamer “Independence,” taking cordial leave of my -new friends, and particularly of my kind host, who could not be induced -to receive any payment. I landed first at Louisville, and disposed of a -part of my canes, then took the rest on to Cincinnati, found a ready -sale, and was once more free to do as I liked. - -The Whigs and Democrats were at this time more than usually violent, -abusing each other in the public papers and thrashing each other in the -public houses. The Democrats in Cincinnati (and all the Germans were -Democrats) had carried a measure for allowing German to be taught in the -schools as well as English; but the German scholars hung back from the -office of schoolmaster, for fear of the examination they would have to -undergo. Under these circumstances, some of my good friends persuaded me -to attempt to pass, and take a situation, the salary being from -twenty-five to thirty dollars a month. So I resolved to try it, if only -for the fun of the thing. - -But for this purpose it was necessary to devote some time to study, as -my knowledge of English grammar was none of the best, and much of my -scholarship had evaporated in the backwoods. - -The formidable day at length arrived. The candidates were two Germans -besides myself, and three Americans, besides five or six young women for -the female schools. I had forwarded notice of my wish to become a -candidate towards the end of July, together with a certificate of my -moral character from a citizen of the town, which my former employer, -the silversmith, was kind enough to give me. I stepped with a light -heart into the hall, for I really did not much care whether I passed or -not. The examiners were five very respectable looking gentlemen; as the -others seemed inclined to hang back, I very gallantly stepped forward. -One of the examiners said he should begin with geography, and addressed -me as follows:--“Now, Mr. Kresdegger;” “Gerstaecker, sir.” “Oh, excuse -me; now, Mr. Kerseker, will you be so kind as to give us the boundaries -of Ohio.” “Yes, sir; on the north,” &c. &c. It was all conducted in this -courteous manner, and all answered the questions, except one of the -Germans. They then began upon Germany, asking me, from what state I -came? “From Saxony.” “How is Saxony divided?” “Into five districts.” -“What are their names?” To save my life, I could not on the instant -remember, but my impudence carried me through. Taking it for granted -that my examiner knew no better than myself, especially as he had no -book, I answered gravely: “Leipzig, Dresden, Grimma, Meissen, and -Oschatz;” with which he was perfectly satisfied, though one of my -compatriots was obliged to bite his lips to preserve his gravity. After -a little more geography we came to grammar, spelling, arithmetic, and -writing; we were then dismissed, and directed to apply on the following -Wednesday. On Wednesday we had a fresh examination, rather more tedious -than the first, and then we were referred to the 5th August. All passed, -excepting one of my countrymen, who remarked that, as they had given -him no certificate, he supposed that they had forgotten him. - -This affair had detained me longer than I had at first intended, and I -now prepared for another cane trip. This time I went no further than -Tennessee, a little below my old ground, and lodged with a relation of -my former host. - -After a few days, some of the neighbors and my host proposed a shooting -party to the Tironia, in Arkansas, and as they intended to be only -fourteen days absent, I agreed to join them, obtained the loan of a -horse and rifle, and was in a few days once again in Arkansas. We -remained about a week at the junction of the Tironia with Big Creek, and -shot three bears; but the season was the most unfavorable that we could -have selected. They were not only very thin, but their skins foxy and -useless. While here we happened to fall in with a young man named -Woodsworth, who wished to go to my old swamps of Baz de View, and Cash -river, to try for buffalo, these marshes being now dry. Nothing could -have presented itself more opportunely. My comrades were soon persuaded, -and in five days we were in the buffalo feeding grounds. - -After three days’ fruitless search, we came upon a herd of sixteen, a -cow and a calf in the rear. We all fired at the cow, in hopes of taking -the calf alive. The cow fell, after making a few bounds, but to our -great annoyance, the wild fat calf threw up his tail, galloped after the -rest, and was soon out of sight. - -Oh, what a feast we had! Well tanned sole-leather would have been a -delicacy in comparison; the marrow was the only part good for any thing. -My host and Woodsworth cut the skin lengthwise, in two halves, and each -took a half on their horses. We then turned to the north-east, and rode, -without entering a house, to Memphis, crossed the Mississippi, and rode -home by the left bank. So at last, I had been at a buffalo hunt! and had -had hard fagging, little pleasure, and no advantage. Whenever I looked -at the skin, I thought of little Magnus, the distiller. - -I set to work on the canes again, and by the middle of October had cut -about 30,000, shipped them on board the steamer “Buckeye,” and returned -to Cincinnati; but this supply overstocked the market there, so I took -them to Pittsburg, in Pennsylvania, selling some at the small towns on -the Ohio on my way. I drove a good trade with them at Pittsburg, and -stayed no longer than was necessary, on account of the coal-dust and -smoke. Like Cincinnati, the place was crowded with Germans out of work. -On my return to Cincinnati, I lived for some time at my ease. - - - - -CHAPTER VIII. - -FARMING AT FOURCHE LE FAVE--A BACKWOODS “FROLIC”--RESIDENCE AT KELFER’S -FARM--SCHOOLS--HUNTING EXCURSION. - - The Ohio--Partnership in farming--Fourche Le Fave--Mr. - Kelfer--Congress land--My cooking operations--Pig-killing--Decoys - used in shooting turkeys--Shooting by night--Salt licks--Mosquitoes - and ticks--Dissensions on our farm--A grand “frolic”--Canoe voyage - through the woods--Sickness--Kelfer and his family--Sessions at - Fourche le Fave--Shooting expedition with Slowtrap--Reserve of the - Americans--Adventures of the early settlers with Indians--Raccoon - shooting--Bee-hunting with bait--Tempest--Panther-hunting. - - -Having received a letter from Rutkin, in Louisiana, with whom I had -passed some pleasant days, inviting me to visit him, and intending to -return to Arkansas to shoot (but to the hills in the west, instead of -the swamps), and having nothing to detain me, I accepted the invitation, -and taking a hearty leave of all friends, I was soon once more on my way -to the south. - -The steamer “Artisan,” with cattle, poultry, flour, whiskey, and -passengers, carried me down the beautiful Ohio. It was very cold; and as -we lay at Louisville, taking in more cargo, it began to snow hard. By -the time we had reached the mouth of the Ohio, the snow was eight inches -deep, and continued so as far as Memphis; nor did it entirely disappear -till we had passed Natchez. - -The nights were very dark, and the boat landed me seven or eight miles -above the right place, so I had to walk to Rutkin’s, leaving my baggage -at a plantation, and calling for it next day. - -Rutkin gave me a cordial reception. He was on the point of selling his -hotel at Pointe Coupée, and removing, with all his family, to Arkansas, -as the climate of Louisiana did not agree with them. Two friends, Haller -and Kean, were to join him, the former with a family. - -Early in January we went up the stream in the steamer “Amazon” to the -mouth of the Arkansas, and started from thence by one of the smaller -boats that run from its mouth, through the dark forests, to the western -forts. Our first point was Little Rock, from whence we intended to go to -Fort Smith, on the west frontier, leaving the women and children till a -house was prepared for them. - -Rutkin had a capital of about 4,000 dollars, and the others 0,000 -amongst them. It was arranged that we should all settle on our tract of -land, and cultivate it together, R. taking a stock of goods for trading, -which was also to be carried on in common, he receiving four per cent. -for his outlay. As the money was at his disposal, he was to a certain -degree our chief, but we were all on good terms with each other. - -We heard Fourche le Fave very highly spoken of, and particularly the -land in its neighborhood. We went to look at the place, and were well -received by a settler there, Mr. Kelfer. He rode over the country with -us, showed us every thing that was to be seen, and did all in his power -to make our visit agreeable. We could not see much of the land for snow, -but K. assured us that it was very good, the pasture excellent, and the -shooting also good. K. seemed likely to make a pleasant neighbor, and we -soon came to terms. There were two dwelling-houses, with two fields not -far apart, belonging to an American named Wilson, who was, as usual, -willing to sell. In half an hour the matter was settled, 250 dollars, -Arkansas paper currency, being paid for the whole. There were two other -fields, making altogether about thirteen or fourteen acres of arable -land, fenced in. The house furthest from the river was a very good one. - -It has to be noticed that this was Congress land; that is, it belonged -to the United States government, and the first settler on it has a prior -right to purchase it, called in American law “preëmption right.” The -advantages of this system to the settler are as follows: he may settle -on the land and cultivate it as his own, no one having a right to turn -him off, till it has been surveyed and announced for sale in the -Government Gazette. He then has the right of purchasing a quarter -section, or 160 acres, or even as little as forty acres at the rate of a -dollar and a quarter an acre, even though another should bid a larger -sum for it. This right Wilson transferred to us with his “improvements.” - -After concluding the purchase, we all came to Little Rock. Rutkin and -Keen went to Louisiana to bring over the families, while Haller and I -bought provisions, and returned to Fourche le Fave. Little Rock was -much increased and improved since I first saw it two years ago, but the -place never pleased me. - -Our house being near the river, we required a boat, partly to carry out -goods from Little Rock to the place of destination, thirty miles up the -Arkansas, and forty miles up the Fourche le Fave, and partly to carry us -occasionally across the river. We obtained a very good one for ten -dollars, loaded it with flour, potatoes, coffee, sugar, some carpenter’s -tools, and a puppy that had been given me, and which I meant to break -in, and rowed away in good spirits towards our new home. - -We entered the Fourche le Fave on the evening of the second day, hoping -to reach a house, said to be about seven miles up the stream; but we -could not find the smallest spot fit for a human habitation, and landed -on a projecting rock, quite tired, between nine and ten o’clock. As it -had rained all day, this was the only clean spot we could find; and the -stone was so small that we were obliged to rest our feet in the boat, to -keep them out of the water. - -Next day it rained harder, and we were very glad to get to a house -before dark, where we were in some measure protected from the tremendous -rain. I say in some measure, because the roof was none of the best, the -rain dropping on my face and neck; luckily, before dark, I had espied an -old cotton umbrella in a corner (no common article in a block-house), -and slept comfortably enough for the rest of the night under its -shelter. - -We arrived next evening at Kelfer’s farm, where we were hospitably -received, and reached our place of destination on the day following. The -four naked walls looked dreary enough at first, but we soon made -ourselves comfortable. We had nothing to do but to repair the fences, -and wait till the weather was cold enough to preserve meat, and to buy -and kill pigs for both families for the winter. Soon after our arrival, -I had happened to fall upon the slippery bank of the river, and tore -open my left hand, and afterwards, as I was chopping a plank with my -tomahawk, not being able to hold it properly, it slipped, and I smashed -one of my fingers. Haller tore up one of my shirts to bind the wound, -and as I could now for awhile do nothing else, I attended to the -cooking, which was carried on as follows: first, we had a cask of wheat -flour, of which I made bread for every meal; secondly, corned pork, cut -in thin slices and fried; and lastly, coffee. The sugar was kept in a -paper parcel on a shelf, and each helped himself. At dinner, a glass of -whiskey was substituted for the coffee. After about three weeks, being -in a rage with something, I threw the fryingpan out at the door, whereby -its handle was broken, and it was rendered by no means more convenient -to cook with; then Haller one day made a false step, and stumbled on the -coffee-pot, which, in consequence, had to be stopped with a little paste -every morning. The washing-up I found more disagreeable than the -cooking. - -Meantime, my hand had got better. The weather set in very cold, and we -resolved to kill and salt the pigs we had bought, weighing about 200 -pounds each. A young American, whom we had engaged to help us, cut down -a large sassafras tree, and hollowed out half a dozen troughs, five for -the meat, and one for the lard. - -The neighbors were called in to help, the pigs driven into the -enclosure, shot, stuck, scalded, cleaned, and carried into the house. -Not having any large caldron to scald them, it was done Arkansas -fashion. A cask with the head out was half sunk in the earth, and filled -with cold water, and a large fire was made close by and covered with -stones. When these were hot enough, they were thrown into the water, and -the cask covered with a blanket. The water was soon hot enough for our -purpose: the pig was dipped once or twice in the water, and five or six -pairs of hands soon removed all the bristles. By evening all was -finished, and part of the fat laid aside, out of reach of the dogs, for -making soap. The good people who came to help us, now set-to to drink, -assisted by Haller, so that in the course of an hour and a half, none of -them knew exactly whether he was standing on his head or his feet. As -soon as they were all screwed up, I laid one in each trough, and left -them to repose. Before it came to this, Haller and the young American -had sworn eternal friendship, clasped each other round the neck, -mutually supported each other to prevent their falling on the stupid -staggering ground, till at last they went down like a couple of -flour-sacks. Next day the pigs were cut up, salted, and suspended in the -smoking house. In the evening we went to our next neighbor to borrow a -caldron, to melt down the fat; but when I went to get it, a large -quantity of fat had vanished, not through the dogs, but through wolves, -whose trail I plainly traced through the soft sand near the river, not -fifteen paces from the house; but enough was left for our purpose. - -I was now well enough to shoot again, and had good sport with the -turkeys, rising before daybreak, stationing myself near their roost, and -remaining quite still till early dawn, then imitating the voice of the -night-owl. The indignant turkey begins to gobble with great force, and -betrays his whereabouts; by creeping noiselessly near his perch, he may -be easily knocked over before broad daylight. If the day should be too -far advanced for the sportsman to gain upon him unperceived, he must -crouch behind a fallen tree, or other cover, and use a decoy-pipe, made -from the second bone of the hen turkey’s wing, split a little on both -sides. One end of this he applies to his mouth, keeping the other end in -the hollow of his hands. As soon as the cock hears it, he flies down, -gobbling furiously, and struts towards the sound, with his wings -trailing along the ground, his comb and wattles in full bloom, and his -tail spread out. He sometimes will come so near that the sportsman is -obliged to give a short whistle to check him, because it is very -difficult to hit him in the right place with a single ball when his -feathers are all ruffled. On hearing the whistle he pulls up short, -looks round suspiciously, and utters a warning K-t-t-t. Now fire, or -good-by turkey. This sport was so attractive, that I hardly let a -morning pass without bringing home a turkey; but it was long before I -was perfect in my practice, and I lost many a shot by a false note, or -heedless noise. - -At the end of two months, Kean arrived early one morning with the news -that Rutkin’s and Haller’s families were in a large flat-bottomed boat, -at the mouth of the Fourche le Fave. Haller took the boat immediately to -join them, leaving Kean with me. Fresh life came with the new arrivals: -Rutkin brought a quantity of wares with him, which were all stowed in a -house we had built for the purpose. They consisted chiefly of coffee, -sugar, salt, powder, lead, cottons, &c., &c., all to be sold for ready -money; but as ready money was one of those things which were very scarce -in Arkansas, a system of barter was opened, and cattle, pigs, horses, -salt meat, butter, poultry, eggs, skins, and smoked venison, were -exchanged for the said articles, and conveyed to Little Rock, to be -again sold or exchanged. This part of the business was intrusted to me. - -Rutkin took on some more workmen, and the land was prepared for corn. I -was again passionately fond of shooting, and had capital sport. As my -days were generally occupied, it was carried on at night, as follows: -the handle of a frying-pan is lengthened to about four feet by means of -a narrow board; the pan is filled with kindlers and set alight--then -taking it on your shoulder, and your rifle in your hand, you are ready -for sport. If alone, you must take a store of kindlers to replenish the -fire. For the sake of a better aim, a small crutch is cut in the end of -the wooden handle, to rest the rifle. The fire being kept behind your -head, the eyes of the game will glow like balls of fire: the deer, -accustomed to the frequent fires in the forest, are not alarmed. When -first discovered, if at about 100 paces, the eyes will look like a -single ball, but the two become distinct on a nearer approach, which the -sportsman must make with as little noise as possible, and, if possible, -against the wind. When near enough, he lays his rifle in rest, and aims -between the eyes, or, if he can distinguish the outline of the form, at -the heart; and he is generally sure of his game. - -There were numbers of salt-licks in the vicinity of the Fourche le Fave, -which were much visited by deer and cattle. The former generally come in -the night, so that the sportsman may take up a station under a scaffold, -on the top of which a fire is made. Four posts are driven into the -ground, five feet apart, and beams laid across, covered with a layer of -leaves or moss, then a layer of sand or earth, on which the fire is -made. The sportsman sits underneath in impenetrable darkness, yet able -to see for seventy or eighty paces on all sides, and easily kills any -deer approaching the lick. - -Many a night I lay in the mild warm air of the forest. Sweet and -refreshing as was the face of nature, all was not repose; mosquitoes and -ticks almost drove me to despair. When the fire was once well alight, -the mosquitoes were attracted by it, and destroyed themselves by -thousands, but the ticks became the more furious. They swarm in the -woods about the end of April, and are a dreadful torment to the -new-comer. The full-grown ticks, about the size of a small shot, are not -the worst, because when they bite they may be caught and killed; but in -July, the seed-ticks, smaller than poppy seeds, cover the bushes by -millions, and I have often almost lost myself under them. Tobacco smoke -is the only safeguard against them, as it kills them at once. The poor -cattle are dreadfully tormented by them, particularly when they get into -their ears. The first cold drives them away, though a few may be found -all through the winter. - -Meantime the work of the farm went on, and the maize was planted; but a -change came over the spirit of our society. Rutkin, who had hitherto -been friendly and good-natured, became snappish and domineering, and -once or twice ventured to give me orders in a tone that I did not choose -to bear; but as he had been only a short time in Arkansas, I made -excuses for him, laughed at him, took my gun, and absented myself for -above twenty-four hours. On my return, he was always wise enough to act -as if nothing had happened, and to see that giving orders was of no use. -He had also frequent disputes with Kean. Haller agreed with him best, -because he always flattered him, and coincided with him before his face, -though this was by no means the case behind his back. - -One day when I was out shooting, R. attacked K., who was small and -slight. To avenge himself, Kean took down his rifle, and would have shot -Rutkin, had not Haller thrown himself between them. Our friendly -relations were now quite broken up. Kean came over to Haller’s, where I -was living, and we withdrew from the partnership, which was more than R. -had reckoned on, as, knowing the state of our finances, he thought he -had us under his thumb. He did not consider that I had a rifle, that -there was plenty of game in Arkansas, and that there was a river running -to New Orleans, where Kean, who was an excellent accountant, could make -sure of a good situation. - -We were soon ready to start. I was to take K.’s things in a canoe to -Little Rock, while he was to follow on horseback. But the 4th of July -approached, on which day a farmer on the Fourche le Fave was going to -give a grand entertainment--or frolic, as it is called--in hopes of -being chosen as a member of the legislature at the next election. We -decided on waiting to be present at it. - -These frolics generally take place in Spring. When a farmer calls his -neighbors together to collect and burn all the wood he has cut down, it -is called a “log rolling frolic;” and when the women assemble to sew -together a number of different colored patches, it is called a “quilting -frolic;” and in the evening, there is generally a dance, or a game of -forfeits. - -I had hitherto never been present at any of these frolics, for I had -rather avoided the throng of men; but as I was about to return to the -woods, where I should perhaps see nothing of social life for months, I -resolved to see men enjoy themselves for once. - -The 4th of July arrived, and at about ten o’clock in the morning I -lounged towards the place of destination, leaving my rifle at home. The -strong attraction of some whortleberries detained me some time on the -road, so that I did not arrive till noon. Here all was in movement; the -whole neighborhood had assembled, and the rough backwoodsmen formed many -strange groups; some in hunting-shirts, like myself; some in woollen -homespun coats--but the greater number without their upper garments. -Several fires were lighted, and cooking was going on in various modes, -while, in a shady place near the house, a group of women were occupied -in boiling a “powerful long coffee.” - -The sound of a solitary fiddle had been perceptible at a distance, and -sure enough, when I arrived, I found dancing going on amongst the -younger folk, in one of the wings of the double house. I had never -succeeded in acquiring the dances of my own country, much less the -extraordinary movements of those of America; so I amused myself with -looking on, and watching the arrivals, who thronged in from all ends and -corners of the State. A great number of the young women were light and -graceful figures, and looked very interesting on horseback, their cheeks -flushed with their quick ride. But they seemed as if they were going on -a pilgrimage, instead of coming to a ball,--for each fair dame had a -bundle of tolerable size at her saddle-bow; some of them were already -known to me, and I assisted them to alight. - -Meantime a long table was laid out before the house, and surrounded with -chairs, benches, &c.; but as it was impossible for all to find seats at -once, the ladies were accommodated first, and waited upon by the -gentlemen. The dinner consisted of roast beef, roast pork, potatoes, -sweet potatoes, maize bread, cakes, and coffee and milk, and went off -very well. Rutkin had brought a case of wine for the ladies, which was -soon emptied. After dinner, a speech was made to the assembled public, -in honor of the birth-day of the United States, and then dancing -commenced again. Picturesque groups were formed here and there, occupied -in various ways. In one place, a party of strong-built, sun-burnt -figures lounged at full length on the grass, relating their shooting -adventures; further on, two figures, astride a fallen tree, were playing -a game of cards; in another place, a party leaping with a heavy stone in -each hand, to give them more impetus; and a row of big fellows were -taking their siesta under the trees, only moving to avoid the too -intrusive rays of the sun, as he declined towards the west. Kean and I -sauntered about amongst the various groups, and occasionally visited the -ball-room--if the interior of a log-house, about sixteen feet by twenty, -can be so called. The air within was hot, almost to suffocation, but the -sight was at times too pretty, at times too comic to be quickly -deserted. Indeed, most of the girls, beating time with their little feet -in jigs, reels, and hornpipes, were pretty enough to chain to the spot -any worshipper of natural beauty. My attention was soon attracted by an -American;--tall, very thin, and rather weak in the knee-joints;--he was -buttoned up in a dark-blue dress coat, with light-blue seams, and yellow -buttons,--a long roll of tobacco stuck out from one of his pockets -which, in the energy of his jumps, he occasionally kicked with his -heels; to prevent its being damaged, he therefore transferred it to the -breast of his coat: the best of the figure was the cravat, which was so -formed, that his head looked like a cup placed in a very large and deep -saucer; his chin was never in sight, and as he jumped, mouth, nose, and -eyes disappeared behind the black bulwark. - -Towards evening I joined in a game of cards. Whiskey bottles passed -round, and many of the party were right merry. Having had enough of -cards, I returned to the dancing, which had undergone some interruption; -but the shrill tones of the violino solo were again heard, as I squeezed -through the crowd at the door, into one of the corners right opposite to -the musician. This functionary was in a rather capricious humor passing -abruptly from the wildest allegro to the most dolorous of the dolefuls, -and then breaking off suddenly to ask me for a quid of tobacco. On my -answering that I had none, he inflicted a couple of rough strokes on his -poor instrument, expressed, in coarse language, a most disagreeable wish -respecting the eyes of all the company, on account of the dryness of his -throat, which had only had the contents of two bottles of whiskey down -it, looked wildly round, began to cry, and fell sobbing on the neck of -the thin man in the blue coat, burying his head in the large cravat. He -was seized by the arms and legs, and unceremoniously carried out. - -Dancing, of course, ceased during this little intermezzo, and one of the -party offered to find a sober fiddler; but as the amusement would have -been interrupted too long by waiting for him, a tall lad placed himself -in front of the chimney, turned up his sleeves with the utmost gravity, -bent his knees a little, and began slapping them in time with the palms -of his hands; in two minutes all was going on with as much spirit as -before. - -At length the promised musician arrived, not however in the promised -condition; but a connoisseur near me remarked that he would do till -twelve o’clock. - -To my astonishment, I observed several of the young ladies in white -dresses, whom I was almost sure I had seen before in dark dresses; but, -as I never paid much attention to such things, I thought I must have -been mistaken. An American, however, told me that I was quite right, and -that most of them had already changed their dresses three times; and, if -I kept a look-out, he continued, I should see that some of them would -change again. This, indeed, was the case. Some changed their dresses -five times between noon and the following morning. It would be as -incorrect to dance for a whole night in the same dress as in Europe to -appear without gloves, which latter articles were thought quite -unnecessary here. - -A farmer, who lived about eight miles lower down the Fourche le Fave, -promised me an old canoe to carry K.’s things to Little Rock, and said, -that when I got there I might set it adrift, as it was not worth cutting -up; so I settled to go home with him next morning to bring the canoe -back. - -A little after twelve the old American’s prophecy came to pass, and the -second fiddler was carried out and laid on the grass, while a third was -soon found to take his place. By this time I was tired and sleepy, so I -stretched myself under a tree, with my head on an old grindstone, and, -in spite of the hard pillow and squeaking fiddle, I slept soundly till -morning. - -When the sun sent his hot rays over the trees into the clearing, dancing -was still going on, and the ground was covered with sleeping figures. -Preparations were soon made for departure. The horses, which had been -tied to the bushes or fence, or driven into an enclosure, and had been -well supplied with maize, were quickly saddled, and troop after troop of -men and women disappeared in the thick green forest. I started with the -farmer and his wife, the indefatigable fiddlestick working away as long -as we were within hearing. - -I found the canoe; and the good man was quite right when he said that it -was not worth cutting up. None but a person accustomed to such craft -would have ventured to step into it. It was nothing more than the -roughly hollowed trunk of a tree, about ten feet long by eighteen inches -wide; however, it answered my purpose, and, provided with a light -paddle, I set out on my return, which, though only eight miles by land, -was at least twenty by water. - -The sun was just dipping behind the tips of the trees; the air, which -had been oppressively hot all day, was somewhat cooler. I was going -slowly up the stream with long easy strokes of the paddle, under the -shadow of the overhanging willows, when, about 100 paces before me, I -saw four wolves playing together on a bank of gravel, jumping in and out -of the water, and rolling over each other like puppies. They did not see -me, and I paddled silently to the side of the river where they were -playing, ran the canoe on the sand, took the paddle, hardly knowing -exactly what I intended, and crept stealthily along towards the -unsuspecting wolves, a projecting rock hiding me from their sight. But -wolves have a fine scent, and just as I was raising my head cautiously, -they all four sprang into the thicket. I returned disappointed to my -canoe, and continued my voyage. On arriving close to a canebrake, about -100 yards further on, I heard a rustling, and caught hold of the bough -of a tree near me, to keep the canoe as still as possible, when an -immense wolf, as black as pitch, with a white star on his breast, came -out of the canes, apparently with the intention of swimming across to -join his companions. When he caught sight of me, he turned his head from -side to side like a dog. As I remained quite motionless, but with my -eyes steadily fixed on him, he took courage, walked into the water, and -began to swim across about fifteen yards ahead of the canoe. I let him -gain the middle of the stream, which may have been about sixty yards -wide, when I gave the canoe a good shove ahead, and paddling as hard as -I could, I gained fast on the surprised wolf. In the first moment, not -knowing which shore to make for, he turned up stream, giving me thus a -great advantage over him. But he soon found out his mistake, and turned -in his first direction, this time gaining an advantage over me, because -my clumsy craft was not easily turned. He had about twenty yards to -swim, and we both tried hard which should first reach the shore. The -bank was still a few feet distant, when I came alongside of the beast, -which was swimming desperately for its life, and, forgetting the -ticklish nature of my craft, I rose up to give him a blow across the -spine with the sharp edge of the paddle, meaning then to attack him with -my knife, as I was without my rifle. He was close beside me, and looked -up at me as I raised the paddle, when the vile canoe slipped from under -me; I lost my balance, and fell into the water just clear of the wolf, -who touched bottom at the same moment, and at once began shaking -himself. The water was not deep, but I was wet through, and vexed at -seeing my prey escape, just as I had made sure of him. A wolf’s scalp is -valued at three dollars in Arkansas. I had moreover the additional -pleasure of swimming some way down the river after the canoe. - -I arrived at Haller’s next day without further adventure, embarked -Kean’s things, taking also all my skins with me, as I could sell them -better at Little Rock than at Fourche le Fave. I gave the canoe to an -old German, who was fond of fishing, and who had to fish himself out of -the water the first time he tried her. - -I soon returned to the settlement, and a few days afterwards took leave -of Kean, who, with a promise to write to me, set off on horseback -towards the south. My arrangements were soon made, and on the following -morning I set off up the bank of the river towards the mountains, -intending to shoot all the summer. Kelfer, who had already received us -so hospitably, was kind enough to offer me the loan of a horse for the -summer. I thankfully accepted his kindness, and rode off in good -spirits, not knowing exactly where; but that was always one of the least -of my cares, so that I was only in motion, and I soon found a good place -for sport. I learnt that there was very good shooting ground higher up -the river, near the grave-lick, so called because two Indians were -buried there, who had been killed by a panther. Here I joined an -American, named Hogarth, who lived in the neighborhood, and was a keen -sportsman. After trying the waters of the Fourche le Fave, we went to -the sources of the Washita; but the forests not having been burnt for -many years, were so thickly overgrown with underwood, that it was -impossible to find the deer, or to shoot game enough to live upon. - -We had been shooting for about five weeks, when one morning, as we were -riding side by side, I felt all at once giddy and unwell. The evening -before, we had been overtaken by a thunderstorm, and my clothes were -still damp. This attack came on so suddenly, that I had hardly time to -say I was ill, and Hogarth turning round, observed that I was very -pale, when every thing swam before my eyes, and turned black and blue; -and I fell senseless off the horse before Hogarth could lay hold of me. -I recovered my senses in a few minutes, but was so ill that it was with -great difficulty I could mount my horse, and keep myself to the saddle. -We had, however, not far to go to the house of a Mr. Collmar, and I held -on by the mane and pommel, though lolling from side to side like a -drunken man. - -The house was nothing more than a shed formed of boards, but the good -people received me very hospitably, and attended me kindly for the two -days that I lay delirious. On the third day I was able to be lifted on -horseback, and we returned over the mountains that divide the left arm -of the Fourche le Fave from the main stream, to Hogarth’s house; he -would not let me move till I was tolerably recovered. - -At no great distance from hence, lived an old backwoodsman, named -Slowtrap, with whom I was well acquainted, and who showed so much -kindness and good feeling that I became quite attached to him. Still I -longed for German society; besides, I had kept Kelfer’s horse too long, -and would not abuse his good nature. Therefore, though still unwell, I -rode from Hogarth’s about the end of August, towards Kelfer’s, who not -only received me with kindness, but treated me quite as one of his own -family. - -He had been accustomed to a quiet comfortable life in his early days, -having been a clergyman in Germany, but he had shaken off the -superintendent yoke of his native country, exchanging it for the -independent life of a farmer in the American forests, and was happy and -contented in his family circle. His young wife was quite an example of -household virtue: they had four very fine children. He produced almost -every thing that he required, and though in his youth unaccustomed to -hard work, he cultivated his land alone, and was not behind any American -in the use of his axe; his cattle and pigs were among the best in the -place. - -When first I arrived I felt very wretched and miserable, but the kind -attentions of Mrs. Kelfer restored me after a time; I managed to help a -little on the farm, and now and then took a turn with my rifle, and shot -a deer or a turkey. - -The sessions were held about this time at Fourche le Fave, and several -advocates, some from Little Rock, some from the neighborhood, assembled -at Perryville, and quartered themselves on the farmers. Kelfer received -one, who was a gentlemanly young man, and he (Kelfer) had cases to -settle with some of the bad characters in the vicinity. There was now -bustle enough in the usually quiet place, and the little town of -Perryville, about two miles off, consisting of one little shop, and the -dwelling of the ferryman, who was also postmaster, was the assembling -place of the county. - -The shop, which formed one half of the town, belonged to a German, who -was too good a specimen of a certain class of his countrymen to be -passed by without notice. Bockenheim, or as the Americans called him, -Buckingham, must, I should think, have been a manufacturer of birch -brooms, as he showed extraordinary talent for that branch of the fine -arts; but he endeavored to gain his livelihood in the general retail -line, and he drove a pretty good trade in Arkansas, where he had settled -himself by chance, and where the people were forced to deal with him, as -his was at first the only shop. Rutkin, however, interfered with his -business, and at first did him much harm, until his proud domineering -manner drove all his customers away, excepting those who thought to gain -advantage over him. Bockenheim spoke such a jargon that it was -impossible to make out whether he was speaking English, German, or -Indian. A German immigrant would never have understood him, and the -Americans were obliged to guess at his meaning; but for all that, he -managed very well, and as he had gained a good sum by his trade, he -naturally enough ascribed it all to his own wisdom. - -The sessions were held in the other half of the town, the postmaster -giving up the half of his house for the purpose, as the court-house was -yet to be built. The judge, who travelled this circuit, had come from -Little Rock with several advocates, and took his place by the chimney in -a cane chair. Two tables were placed together in the middle of the room, -though rather nearer the chimney, round which the advocates and the -clerk of the court took their places. A case of assault was first -brought forward; the jury, who must be householders, were chosen, and -sworn, and placed themselves on a long bench against the wall. The -proceedings were opened by the prosecuting attorney, who directed the -attention of the jury to the various laws enacted against this crime, -and then called his witnesses. He was followed by the advocate for the -defence, who called his witnesses, and concluded with an address to the -jury, in which he did not fail to praise the soundness and acuteness of -their judgment. The prosecuting attorney then rose again, and endeavored -to disparage the statements made on the opposite side, ending with the -remark, that, “in the whole course of his life, he had never known so -flagrant a case.” It was now the judge’s turn, who explained to the jury -the state of the law applicable to the case, and warned them that if -they had any doubts, the law prescribes that the case should be decided -in favor of the defendant. The jury ought now to have withdrawn to -another and distant room; but as, unfortunately, there was no other -room, distant or near, to be had at Perryville, and as the pouring rain -prevented their deliberating in the open air, as at other times, the -horses were turned out of the stable, and the twelve jurymen occupied -their place. The next case was that of a respectable farmer, who was -accused of having shot another’s cow, taken it home, and eaten it. The -case excited considerable interest, as it was stated to have occurred -several years ago, and the penalty was whipping and imprisonment, which -has since been altered. After a long deliberation in the stable, the -jury returned a verdict of “Not guilty.” The sessions lasted several -days, and the crowd dropped off by degrees. - -At this time of the year, before the maize is quite ripe, being soft but -no longer milky, while last year’s store is nearly exhausted, the farmer -rubs the grain on a grater, generally made out of an old coffee-pot, in -which holes are punched with a nail, and thus procures a fine damp -flour, containing all the saccharine qualities of the plant, and making -excellent bread. This grating is rather hard work. One day when Kelfer -had grated some maize in front of the house, and the fine bright yellow -flour was heaped up on a clean napkin, a juvenile pig came by, and -playfully seized the corner of the napkin, throwing all the flour into -the dust. - -I had received no letter from Kean, but heard that he had joined a young -German in the purchase of a boat, and was gone into Louisiana. I almost -regretted that I had not accompanied them; but my passion for shooting -impelled me in a different direction, and I longed to be in the Ozark -mountains, of which I had heard so much, and which were only 150 miles -off. Week after week passed away, and I was desirous of helping Kelfer -with his approaching harvest. I passed a great part of my time in the -forest with my dog Bearsgrease, the same that I had brought from Little -Rock, and which had grown to a fine powerful animal. I was still -undetermined whether to go north or south, when an old acquaintance -arrived at Kelfer’s to pass the night, and decided the question. - -It was old Slowtrap, who had formerly lived near the mouth of Fourche le -Fave, but had since removed higher up, not far from Hogarth’s. He had a -sack full of all sorts of articles, including a half bushel of salt -which he had bought at Little Rock, and carried across his horse. He -afterwards told me that he had transported all his family and goods on -horseback, and then I remembered having once met him riding along with -four chairs and a spinning-wheel. The spinning-wheel having made the -horse shy, he had hung it on a tree, intending to come back for it; -meantime a backwoodsman had set fire to the dry leaves in the -neighborhood, and just as he arrived he saw it, burnt through and -through, fall in two parts into the fire below. - -A man will sometimes move with his wife and children, and all his goods, -further into the forest, if the grass about his house gets thin, so that -he would be forced to cultivate a little more maize for his cattle. - -Slowtrap spoke much of his father-in-law, who was a keen bear-shooter, -and made me long for the mountains more than ever, by affirming that he -intended to go himself in a few weeks, that I might go with him, and -that he would introduce me to the old gentleman. This drove all thoughts -of the south out of my head, and we settled on marching the following -morning. There is a saying that “short hair is soon brushed;” my baggage -was ready in a few minutes. - -I was sorry to part with the Kelfers, who had been so kind to me, and -treated me as one of their family; but I hoped soon to see them again. - -The November morning broke cold and disagreeable when I started with my -companion. My baggage was not very heavy; I had on deer-skin leggings, -and moccasins, a light hunting-shirt of summer stuff, secured by a broad -leather belt, bearing my tomahawk on the right, and hunting-knife on the -left side, and a tin cup behind. Spare powder and lead were rolled up in -my blanket, with a small bag of roasted coffee, and a clean shirt; a -powder-horn and a leather shot-pouch completed my equipment. My -companion, though an old sportsman, was not equipped for shooting; but -he was pretty well loaded with other things. As I have already stated, -he formerly lived near the mouth of the Fourche le Fave, but had moved -about fifty miles further west, carrying his kitchen utensils, tools, -bedding, &c., all on horseback, and driving his cattle and pigs before -him to his new home. Difficult as such a move appears, I know of a -family which moved three times in one year. - -My old friend cut a glorious figure, as he rode beside me. He was about -six feet tall, and as large boned as a fine figure would allow. A pair -of thoroughly honest eyes looked out of a good-humored, weather-beaten -face, and were in constant motion, giving great animation to the massive -figure. Nobody had ever seen him laugh, but those who are well -acquainted with him say, that a little widening twitch of the mouth, and -a slight closing of the corner of the left eye, are certain evidences of -good-humor; neither had anybody ever seen him go faster than at a quick -walk--he seemed to consider it beneath his dignity to run. A well-worn -black coat, with large pockets and flaps, was thrown over his shoulders, -and, notwithstanding the rough weather, his legs were cased in a pair of -thin, light-colored trowsers, which rumpled up high enough to show a -muscular calf above a short sock; a pair of shoes of his own making -covered his feet, while a hat, of any shape but the original, and that -had been black, covered his head. The articles in one end of his bag -were not heavy enough to balance the salt in the other end; so, to -maintain the equilibrium, he was obliged to lean to the left side, and -as he had a large basket, containing a Muscovy duck, on the right arm, -the horse seemed to be between him and the basket. An unloaded gun, -that he had accepted in payment of a long-standing debt, lay across the -pommel. He kept me constantly amused with his stories, as we jogged -along the county road. - -When a county road has to be cut, a director is appointed, who is -authorized to assemble all the male population of the county from the -age of eighteen to forty-five; and these stout sons of the forest soon -make a clearance among the trees, and roll their trunks out of the way. -But holes and other hinderances are left in a state of nature, if there -is the slightest chance that a wagon can pass. - -Our road led us near the river, though we seldom saw it, on account of -the canes and rushes through which it flows; moreover, we kept to the -heights as much as possible, for the sake of dry ground. The main course -of the river is from west to east, with very good land on both banks, -forming excellent winter pasture, while the hills, also running east and -west, afford equally good summer pasture amongst the thick pine forests. - -It was long since the road had been inspected. Large broken boughs and -fallen trees lay across it, impeding our progress. According to -Slowtrap, this was quite natural. He maintained that a tree never would -fall any other way than across a road, if it could only reach it, just -as a sweet gum tree always fell on a fence, if it stood near enough. We -passed a school as we went along--one of the usual log-houses--but with -a plank inserted between two of the logs to serve for a desk. The more -distant scholars come on horseback, and tie up their horses to the fence -during school hours. Of course they bring their dinners with them. -These forest schools seldom pretend to teach more than reading, writing, -and arithmetic; if they attempt geography, it is confined to that of the -United States. In the swamps I once saw a teacher giving lessons in -writing; some of his scholars were eighteen and twenty years old, yet -could not read what they wrote, but copied the letters as we should copy -hieroglyphics. It was just noon as we passed; at this hour master and -scholars make it a rule to play at ball if the weather will allow, so -that they may return with greater zeal to their spelling. The scholars -whom we saw were nearly all grown up. - -Hitherto the weather had been fine; but clouds gathered in the west, and -soon turned to rain. As we were in no great hurry, and as Slowtrap said -that one of his greatest friends lived about half a mile from the road, -we turned to the left, and soon halted before a block-house, whose -chimney smoke indicated a glorious fire within. Old Bahrens, to whom the -house belonged, was not at home, but his two sons, lads fifteen and ten -years of age, gave us a warm reception. We found the room occupied by -three other men, who made room for us, and the fire soon restored warmth -to our half-frozen limbs. Two of the strangers were talking earnestly -about the races, which were shortly to be held in the neighborhood, -while the third seemed to be very tired, for he was fast asleep in his -chair. - -As it grew later and later without any signs of supper, and there was no -woman in the house, we all set to work, took maize out of the corn crib, -and began to grind. But what a mill! It was above an hour before we had -flour enough for a tolerable meal; we then moistened it with water, put -it in a flat iron pan, covered it, and set it on the ashes to bake. Milk -and smoked deer-hams formed the remainder of the spread. Having, with -some difficulty, roused our sleeping companion, we commenced upon the -viands, and even our sleepy friend seemed to have banished all other -thoughts in his anxiety to make them disappear with the utmost possible -despatch; but his last mouthful was hardly out of sight, when his eyes -became for a moment fixed, the lids fell, and he was again in a deep -sleep. - -The whole party were rather tired, and as there were no spare beds in -the house, S. and I spread our blankets; the boys gave us two more to -cover us, and all five were soon peaceably extended, one beside the -other, in waiting for the next day’s sun. - -We were up at daybreak, and, to avoid another grind at the old mill, for -which I had conceived the greatest respect, we started before breakfast. -The horse, having had a good supply of food, was again saddled and -bridled, the bag with salt, &c., laid across, my old comrade climbed up, -I handed him his duck basket and old shooting iron, cast my blanket over -my shoulder, and shaking hands with our two new acquaintances, the third -being still asleep, we went off to the west for the abode of my -companion. The weather had cleared up, and with light heart and light -step we jogged along the well-beaten track; Bearsgrease snuffing the -trails of the deer which had crossed the road in the course of the -night. He stopped at every fresh trail, asking with entreating eyes for -leave to follow it; but we had no notion of shooting just then, and -kept straight on. As the day advanced, our stomachs began to reproach us -for such unfriendly treatment, when, about 200 yards in front, we saw a -gang of wild turkeys running along the road. One word of encouragement -to Bearsgrease, and he seemed to fly rather than run after the -long-legged turkeys, who soon finding that their legs would not save -them, took to their wings, and flew heavily to the nearest trees. - -As fast as I could I had followed up the dog, who had singled out a -turkey-cock, and was bounding and barking round the tree in which he had -taken refuge, and whence, with outstretched neck, he was turning his -head first to one side then to the other, intently watching the motions -of Bearsgrease; I was enabled to approach unperceived and knock him -over. Meantime S. had lighted a jolly fire, and we sat rather too long -over our meal, considering, or rather not considering, that we had a bad -bit of road before us, and that the weather began to look threatening. - -For half a mile the road led through the “mounds,”--small hills, which -are very frequent in this part of Arkansas, principally on low ground. -There can be no doubt but that they have been formed by the hand of man, -as they are in regular rows, from twenty to forty yards apart, six or -seven feet high, and about twelve feet in diameter. The one in the -middle of a row is always of an oval form, while the others are round. -There are sometimes from twelve to twenty rows, with from ten to twenty -and twenty-five mounds in a row, all at regular distances. I have spoken -with several Americans who had dug into them, in the hope of -discovering treasures; but they only found broken pottery, burnt wood, -and now and then a bone. They are situated in the most fertile soil of -the State, and the Indians know nothing about them. - -At length the swamps were behind us. We crossed a small prairie, passed -an old buffalo salt-lick, and arrived at Slowtrap’s dwelling, planted on -a spur of the hills which ran out into the plains. It was in no way -different from the usual log-houses: sixteen feet square, from nine to -ten high, with an enormous fireplace, no window, and a weighted roof; -close by was a field of about seven acres, planted with maize. His wife -and children stood at the door as we arrived, and although I knew that -they were much attached to each other, and lived happily together, and -he had been about three weeks absent, not the least word was exchanged -that could be construed into a greeting. “Take my saddle in,” said S. to -his eldest son, a boy of eight years old, who was leaning on the fence, -looking at us as if we were perfect strangers, in whom he had no -concern. At last, when the horse was cared for, and all things in their -places, S. went into the house, took a seat, and lifted his youngest -child into his lap;--and then he said, “How do you do, all of you?” This -distant reserve of the Americans, so prevalent even in their own -families, often struck cold on my heart, and made me regret my native -land. Man and wife are often as reserved towards each other as two -strangers who meet for the first time, and care not about meeting again. -I have seen Americans leave home to be absent for months, without -shaking hands with their wives, or saying “Good-by,” and it is the same -on their return. I must believe, for the honor of the Americans, that -this reserve is mere custom, and does not proceed from any real want of -affection, as I have seen proofs of deep feeling amongst them, but it -always made a disagreeable impression on me. But still worse was it to -see Germans aping this fashion, as often happened to be my lot. - -When quietly seated, I took a survey of the dwelling. In two corners -stood two large beds, covered with good stout quilts of many colors; -between the beds, about four feet from the ground, was a shelf holding a -few more quilts, and the linen of the family, which was not -over-abundant, comprising three or four articles for each person. Under -this shelf were two “gums,” trunks of a hollow tree, about a foot in -diameter, and two and a half or three feet high, with a piece of board -nailed on the bottom. They are applied to all sorts of purposes: I have -seen them used as beehives; these, I subsequently found, were one for -flour and the other for salt. Two wooden hooks over the door supported -my host’s long rifle, with its powder-horn and shot-pouch. A shelf held -some shoemaker’s tools, leather, &c., Gun’s Domestic Medicine, a family -Bible, the Life of Washington, the Life of Marion, Franklin’s Maxims, an -almanac, and a well-worn map of the United States. Various files, awls, -broken knives, and a bullet-mould, were stuck into the crevices of the -logs near the fireplace. On the left of it were two short shelves, with -four plates, two cups, three saucers, some tin pots, and a large -coffee-pot, all as bright and clean as possible. In the corner of the -fireplace was an iron pan with a cover, for baking bread, and two -saucepans, one broken. Several joints of smoked meat hung from the roof, -surrounded by strips of dried pumpkin suspended on poles. - -The above-named boy, a girl of ten, a blue-eyed, flaxen-haired, -rosy-cheeked girl of four, diligently munching a bunch of wild grapes, -and the little one on my friend’s lap, formed the family; they all -looked shyly at me, though they had seen me six months before, so that I -was not quite a stranger to them. - -We had agreed to set off for the mountains at once--but S. found some -business to detain him at home, so it was put off till the next week, -and I amused myself in the mean time as well as I could; and as I was -acquainted with the country, I took my rifle, and paid a few visits to -old acquaintances, returning to Slowtrap’s on the 12th December, partly -on account of the cold wet weather, and partly to mend my moccasins, -which had suffered severely from the sharp stones of these mountains. -Slowtrap happened to be mending a pair of shoes at the same time. It is -a general practice with the backwoodsmen to make their own shoes, and a -regular shoemaker is a scarce article in this part of the world. As they -are thrown on their own resources from their youth, these Americans are -very skilful in providing for their necessary wants, and are -particularly expert with the axe, which they begin to wield as soon as -their arms are strong enough to lift it. They use it for a variety of -purposes--building houses, laying roofs and floors, forming the chimneys -and doors, the only other tool used being an auger; and nothing amuses -them more than to see the awkwardness of a new comer, when first he -handles an axe. Besides making their own shoes, they understand enough -of tanning to prepare the leather; they make their own ploughs, dig -wells, &c.; for all which operations Europeans require so many different -workmen. - -As we sat together before the fire, there was no difficulty in getting -Slowtrap to relate some of his adventures with the Indians in his early -days. In the evening we brought in some pumpkins, and as we cut them -into thin rings to hang on the poles to dry he began to speak in the -following words of the perils he had been exposed to in Kentucky, and -his narrow escapes from the Indians: “Kentucky was at that time a -wilderness, when my father, my uncle, and myself arrived near the -dwelling of Daniel Boone, to look about for a spot that would suit us; -for North Carolina, where we then lived, began to be too populous, and a -man who wanted to shoot a turkey or partridge was tired before he had -walked half an hour, from the number of fences he was obliged to climb -over. I was then just eighteen, as strong as a four-year-old bear, and -was delighted at the thought of meeting the Indians. It was about this -time of the year, and the game we saw made our hearts bound: numbers of -bears, deer, and buffaloes; while the turkeys would hardly get out of -our way. It would tire you to tell you of all the sport we had, for no -country in the world could boast of more game than Kentucky thirty years -ago; but now it is no better there than it was then in North Carolina, -and five years hence, a man who wants to shoot a bear in Arkansas, will -have many a weary mile to tramp. One evening we arrived at the edge of a -cane-brake, and as there was good feeding for the horses, we resolved -to pass the night there. We hobbled the forelegs of the horses with some -bark of the papao tree, and hung a bell round the neck of my uncle’s -mare. Yet, not being sure of escaping the vigilance of the Indians, we -kept watch by turns. Nothing suspicious occurred till about midnight, -when the sound of the bell ceased, which I, having the watch at the -time, thought rather extraordinary, as the horses were not in the habit -of lying down till morning. The dogs also were restless, particularly a -greyheaded bear-hound, who gave a howl when the wind came from the -quarter where the horses had been left. I did not wake the two seniors, -but I passed an anxious night. Towards morning I heard the bell again, -but further off, and more to the right. My father woke about daybreak, -and I told him what had disquieted me. It seemed rather suspicious to -him also, but he thought the horses might perhaps have strayed a little -in search of fresh reeds. As soon as it was broad daylight, he took his -bridle and rifle, and went with ‘Watch,’ the old dog, towards the sound -of the bell, to bring back the horses. My uncle woke in the mean time. -We had set a delicate morsel to broil. I was catching the dripping from -some roasting bear’s meat, in a piece of hollow bark, to baste the -turkey, when my father came back without the horses, and said he had -found infallible traces of Indians near our camp. My uncle wished to -examine the marks; so we shouldered our rifles, and proceeded to the -place where the horses had been feeding the evening before. In one -rather moist place there was a very clear impression of a moccasin, and -one of the savages had inconsiderately stepped on the trunk of a fallen -tree, which being rotten, had yielded to his weight, leaving the mark -of a foot. While examining it, we heard a noise in the canes. In an -instant our rifles were all directed to the spot; but it was only my -horse sticking his head out of the canes, and neighing at sight of us. -My uncle now settled that, as he was best acquainted with the cunning -and tricks of the Indians, he would seek the horses alone, and nothing -we urged could dissuade him from his purpose. He took my father’s -bridle, and my horse, and was soon mounted, slowly and cautiously -following up the trail. Losing sight of him, we went back to the camp to -look after our breakfast, which we had forgotten in the first -excitement. We remained constantly listening for the sound of the bell, -when we heard a shot, and directly afterwards three more in quick -succession. We were up in an instant, started towards the sound, and -soon heard the gallop of a horse, and saw my uncle advancing at full -speed. When he reached us he pulled up short, so that the horse reared. -His eyes were glazed;--he was very pale, reeled in his saddle, and fell -into my arms, which I extended to receive him. It was well for us that -the Indians had not followed him, or we should have fallen an easy prey. -My uncle recovered after a short time, and told us, with failing voice, -that as he was following up the trail, he distinctly heard the bell -again at a little distance, and riding cautiously forward, rather -distrustful of the deep silence, he saw my father’s horse standing by a -fallen tree. He rode up to him, keeping a sharp look-out all round; and -just as he leaned over to take hold of the bell-strap which was round -his neck, an Indian appeared not fifteen paces off, took aim, and -fired; feeling himself hit, he let go the horse, brought forward his -rifle, and fired, when more dark figures appeared right and left. He -turned his horse, and gave him the spurs. He sank fainting to the -ground, and the dark blood flowed out as we opened his clothes. He was -hit in three places, and two of the wounds were mortal. After a few -minutes he raised himself again, gave us each a hand, which we pressed -in silence, drew a deep breath, and fell back a corpse. We buried him on -the spot, and vowed a deep revenge, which we faithfully consummated: a -few nights afterwards, the wolves were tearing the flesh from three -corpses over the fresh grave.” - -Having finished his tale, my host sat for some time with his head -leaning on his hand, thinking of times long past. His wife had fallen -asleep: she had probably, heard the tale many times before, and as it -was rather late, we were all glad to retire. - -The dogs barked several times during the night, and about an hour and a -half before daylight, they were quite furious; supposing their -excitement to be caused by raccoons, or opossums, we started up, and -took our guns, called the dogs, and went into the piercing cold morning -air, though it was too dark to see one’s hand; my thin deer-skin -moccasins were soon frozen, which by no means added to my agreeable -sensations. The bark of the dogs soon showed that they had chased -something to a tree. As our feet were dreadfully cold, and it was still -too dark to shoot, we lighted a fire, and though the dogs enjoyed its -warmth, they never forgot the object of our being there, keeping their -eyes fixed on the tree, and giving, from time to time, a short -impatient howl. At length a gleam appeared in the east; gradually the -forms of the nearest objects became visible; as the light increased, we -could make out, on one of the upper branches of a tree, a dark spot, -which afterwards was distinctly seen to be a raccoon. S---- raised his -rifle slowly, and took aim; the dogs jumped up, and looked to and fro -from the muzzle of the gun to the dark spot on the tree, giving a slight -whine--the piece became steady--a flash--a sharp report--and the -creature fell dead from the top of the tree. The dogs seized it -instantly, and it cost some trouble to rescue it from their fangs, -before the skin was quite spoiled. - -We returned to the house, and rested again till breakfast. After -breakfast I went out to shoot turkeys, which were very numerous; but -when I descended to the lower valley of the river, I found such an -abundance of winter grapes, that I thought no more of my shooting, but -gathering a good quantity, I lay down under a tree to enjoy them. After -lying there about a couple of hours, I was roused by hearing the turkeys -calling; so, hiding myself behind a fallen tree, I used my decoy pipe, -and ten or a dozen stout fellows came strutting along. When they arrived -within about twenty paces I gave a whistle, which brought them to a -stand, and I shot the largest through the head. Satisfied with my prize, -I returned to the house, and found that the grapes had quite spoiled my -dinner. - -As the weather turned out fine and warm in the afternoon, we determined -to hunt in the wood for a swarm of wild bees, which we had sought for -in vain about six months before. We took some bait with us, and went to -a spot about half a mile off. - -To induce bees to take bait in the fall of the year, the hunter looks -out for a small open space in their neighborhood, and if he cannot find -one he must make a clearance with his knife and tomahawk, stick a branch -upright in the ground, and lay some leaves on it spread with a little -thinned honey. The bees soon discover it, and when they have got as much -of the honey as they can carry, they rise in circles, which become -larger and larger, till they attain a certain height; then they dash off -direct for their own tree, to deposit their store in the general -warehouse. The bee-hunter must take particular notice of the line of -their flight, which requires a good eye, and then carry his bait some -two hundred yards further in that direction, when the bees will soon -flock round it again. If, when loaded, they keep the same course, it is -a sign that the tree is still in that direction, and the bait must be -carried further, until they fly the other way. Then the bee-hunter will -know that he has passed the tree, and that it must be between his -present and his last station, and he is not long in finding it. When he -comes near the tree, and the bees are at work, their unsteady zigzag -flight will betray its proximity. - -The first time we moved our bait, the bees flew backward, so we knew we -could not be more than a hundred yards from their tree; but the -approaching night prevented our discovering it. Next morning about ten -o’clock, as it began to get warm, we returned to our hunt, and in less -than half an hour, found the hole where the little laborers were passing -in and out. It was in a nearly decayed, not very large post-oak, a tree -that prefers moist soils, though it also grows on hills. It bears small -and rather sweet acorns; its wood is very durable, and will remain long -in the ground without rotting. I rode hastily back to the house, for we -had taken a horse with us for the chase, and returned with a pail, an -axe, a knife, and a spoon. The tree soon fell under our blows--smoke was -made--the bees stupefied--an opening cut--and a most beautiful sight for -a bee-hunter presented itself, in a number of well-filled cells. We -filled the pail with the best, ate as much as our stomachs would bear, -set the tree on fire, that the bees might not lead us astray in our next -hunt, and returned to the house. - -As there were several things to be done about the house, we remained at -home, cut down firewood, and carried it to the house, ground flour in -Slowtrap’s excellent steel mill, and when the evening shadows began to -lengthen fast, we sat by the fire, and the old fellow, rendered -good-humored by the successful bee-hunt, began again with his stories. -In the course of the day, we had seen a man pass by with a smooth-bored -gun, and as such a thing was a rarity in the backwoods, the conversation -turned on this circumstance. He said: “I once had a smooth-bored gun, -called a musket, and not far from the house where we then lived was a -small lake, generally covered with wild fowl. One morning I took the old -thumper, for it kicked tremendously, and lounged towards the lake to -have a shot. I had not gone far along the bank, when I saw through a -gap a number of ducks, swimming quietly on the other side of a thick -bush; a fallen tree stretching out into the lake, seemed to offer a good -bridge to approach them by. When I got to the end of it, and was about -sixty yards from the birds, I raised the heavy old musket to take aim, -but knowing how old kill-devil kicked, I leant as far forward as -possible, with the firm conviction that the recoil would drive me back -on the tree. Three ducks were swimming in a line, and thinking this a -good chance, I pulled the trigger, leaning if possible still further -forward in the act; but it only snapped, the expected recoil failed, and -I fell head over heels into the lake. I had some trouble in getting back -again to the shore, and never saw ducks or musket again.” - -The sky seemed to promise a continuance of fine weather, and as there -was no prospect at present of Slowtrap’s visit to the mountains, I -resolved to take a little shooting excursion alone. The shooting on the -north of the river was not so good as on the south, as there were fewer -settlements; so I determined to cross over, and try my luck. A young man -of the name of Curly lived close to the south bank; he was certainly -strongly suspected of horse-stealing, but in other respects was a good -fellow, and a capital sportsman; his little weakness respecting -horse-flesh was a matter of indifference to me--he could not steal any -of mine: so I went to the river and hailed, when he soon brought his -canoe and carried me across. - -He was easily persuaded to accompany me for a few days, first requesting -time to prepare some provisions. He lived in a small block-house close -to the river, surrounded by trees, and without an inch of cultivated -land; he subsisted mostly by shooting. He had only lately arrived; his -mother, wife, and sister lived in the house with him. As he had no flour -in store, it was necessary to grind some, but his mill was more like a -mortar than any thing else. Such mills are frequent in Arkansas. A sound -tree is cut off about three feet from the ground, and hollowed by fire, -knife, and chisel till it will hold about as much as a pail; it is made -as smooth as possible, and a logger-head, or pestle of hard wood, is -suspended to a balanced pole, such as is frequently fitted to wells. It -may be imagined that pounding corn in this way is hard work, and as only -a small quantity at a time can be prepared, it has to be done before -every meal; but this is the only resource of all those who are too poor -to buy a steel mill. At last Curly had as much as would serve for two -days, in case we shot nothing. He rolled up in his blanket all the -things he meant to take, hung his tin pot and tomahawk to his belt, and -off we set into the glorious freedom of the forest. - -We might have gone about three miles, when we came on the trail of -several deer, though we had seen nothing of the precious creatures -themselves; and as it began to grow dark, and we found ourselves near a -bubbling spring, and a black hawberry bush looked very attractive, we -resolved to camp there, and to begin our sport as early as possible in -the morning. We cast off our blankets, laid down our rifles, and -collected wood for a fire, the night promising to be rather cold. We -soon had a fire of which a volcano need not have been ashamed, and lay -down to repose. Our supper consisted of dried venison, slices of bacon, -maize bread, and coffee--a princely repast for the forest, but we hoped -to have fresh meat on the morrow. - -We breakfasted with the first gleam of light, fed the dogs, and related -stories till it was light enough to see the sights on the muzzles of the -rifles; then taking our preconcerted directions, we trod lightly and -cautiously over the dried leaves. A little before sunrise I heard the -crack of Curly’s rifle; a few minutes later a second report, then a -third. I stood still for about a quarter of an hour, in case a -frightened deer should bound past. Nothing moved; I continued my march. -I had not gone far when I saw a majestic buck at a walk. I crept lightly -to a right angle with his course; when about eighty yards off, I gave a -hail: he stopped, and my ball pierced his shoulder; after a few bounds, -he lay struggling in the yellow leaves. Bearsgrease rushed after him, -but finding him already dead, he only licked the wound, and lay quietly -beside him, waiting for his share of the prize. I took the skin and the -two legs, hanging the latter on a tree with the skin over them, cut a -few bits of the rest for Bearsgrease, leaving the remainder for the -wolves and vultures, and continued my march. Soon after I heard a shot, -about a hundred yards off on the other side of a thick jungle, and -proceeded towards the sound. It turned out to be Curly, who had killed a -turkey; he was lying under a tree, and told me, with a mournful visage, -that, having wounded a buck, he was following him over some loose -stones, when he sprained his ankle, and could hardly move, being obliged -to leave the wounded deer to its fate. - -As we had traversed the country in a circle, we were not far from our -last night’s camp. I helped him to it as well as I could, and both being -hungry, we roasted the turkey. But Curly had lost all heart for -shooting, and, with the help of a big stick, limped slowly homewards, -where he could lay up his leg to nurse. I could not tear myself away so -soon, and continued my sport alone. - -As the sky grew cloudy and threatening, I made a tent of my blanket, and -collected wood enough to defy any quantity of rain that might fall. When -all this was arranged, I went to the tree where I had left my venison -and skin, and to give Bearsgrease another feed from the carcase. But I -was too late; the vultures had left nothing but the bones, and had torn -the skin on the tree, which, however, I was in time to rescue, and -hanging it over my shoulders, with the legs safe in my arms, I returned -to my camp. Having made a good fire, and roasted a slice of meat, the -coffee being all gone, and the bread reduced to one small piece, I fed -my dog, and lay down to repose. About midnight I was awakened by a -formidable thunderstorm. Bearsgrease began to howl dreadfully, and close -behind me an oak burst into flames. Flash followed flash, while the -thunder was incessant; the whole forest seemed to swim in a lake of -fiery brimstone, the rain poured in torrents, and the little stream -swelled to a foaming river. When the storm ceased, silence and darkness -took its place, only disturbed by the rustling of the rain falling -perpendicularly on the leaves. My blanket protected me well; I was -perfectly dry, and soon fast asleep again. Towards morning it cleared -up, and the weather was the most glorious for shooting that could -possibly be imagined. I was on foot by daybreak, and by ten o’clock I -had three deer hanging to the trees. My last night’s repose having been -broken by the storm, and yesterday’s and to-day’s exertions having -fatigued me very much, I threw myself under a tree, and enjoyed a -delightful nap. The sun was near the horizon when I awoke, and there was -hardly time for me to return to camp and collect wood before dark, for -the night threatened to be very cold; but it was bright starlight, and -my blanket was dry,--so I rolled myself comfortably in its folds. - -I lay awake till past midnight, giving the reins to my imagination; and -when I fell asleep I dreamed of stretched deerskins, and that -Bearsgrease was chasing an immense buck, when his loud barking and -howling awoke me. I patted him to keep him quiet, and found his hair all -bristling up. I thought wolves must be near us; and listening -attentively, I heard the cautious tread of some heavy beast over the dry -frosty leaves. - -I laid some dry fir branches, which were near me, on the fire, to make -it burn up bright, and placed myself between it and the noise of the -footsteps, in order to distinguish the eyes of my untimely visitor, and -shoot him. Three times I caught sight of two glowing balls, and from -their rapid disappearance I was convinced that I had to do with a -panther. He went round and round the fire several times, but never close -enough for me to distinguish his form;--and I passed half an hour with -my rifle at my cheek, in the greatest anxiety, the dog pressing close to -my side, with all his nerves on the stretch, following the tread of the -panther, and giving a fearful howl every time he passed across the wind. - -The brute, not possessing courage enough to attack, at length withdrew; -but I remained a good quarter of an hour longer on the watch, till the -dog, persuaded that all was safe, had lain down again, when I followed -his example, wrapped myself in my blanket, and was soon fast asleep. - -The morning was bitterly cold; and as I had nothing on my feet but a -pair of thin deer-skin moccasins, not even stockings, I thought of a -plan I had learned from an old sportsman, and bathed my feet in the icy -cold water of the stream, dried them well, and put on my moccasins. My -feet were soon in a glow, and remained warm all the morning. - -I started at daylight, and followed the course of the stream downwards; -but the bushes grew thicker and thicker, and I was about returning to -cross the hill to another brook, when I caught sight of a noble stag in -the thicket on my right. I crept quickly and silently round the bush to -cut him off, when suddenly I heard a most heart-rending cry from a deer. -My first impulse was to rush towards the sound, and on the first -movement I made for this purpose, Bearsgrease bounded forwards; but I -thought better of it, and a sharp whistle stopped the dog in his career. -A second fainter whistle brought him to my side; then, hiding behind a -tree, I reflected on what was best to be done. - -The shriek certainly came from a deer, and nothing but a panther could -have caused it; for if it had been a wolf, all would not have been -silent again so soon, as a wolf could not have overpowered a deer so -quickly. - -Now, I had often heard from Americans how the panther darts on his prey, -kills it in an instant, and, after eating his fill, buries or covers up -the rest for a future meal. I resolved to try and make sure of the -panther, and, if possible, to creep up to him unperceived. I did not -then know how difficult it was to outwit a panther; but this time -fortune favored me. - -After waiting about half an hour, I thought I might make the attempt, -and crept lightly and cautiously towards the thicket; the dog, well -knowing my object, crept as silently after me. Just as I gained the edge -of the thicket, and was looking out for the best place to enter it with -the least noise, I heard a light rustling. My heart began to beat -violently; the bush opened, and my eyes encountered the fierce orbs of -the panther. Doubtless, in the first moment of surprise he did not know -exactly what to do; but his surprise did not last long: a panther has a -bad conscience, and justly supposes a foe in every living being not -belonging to his own race; and, crouching down about twenty paces from -me in the yellow grass, he was preparing either to make a spring, or to -hide himself--I could not tell which. But I was not idle; during the -time he stooped, my arm had recovered its steadiness, the rifle cracked, -the animal made one spring upwards, and fell dead to the earth. -Bearsgrease seized him on the instant, and seemed to take exquisite -pleasure in shaking the skin of his deadliest foe; and he cast many a -longing look behind, when, at my command, he followed up the panther’s -trail. We soon came to the place where he had killed the buck, and -covered it with leaves; the skin had been so mauled that it was -useless, but I stripped off the panther’s, and set out on my return to -my camp, deciding to go back to old Slowtrap’s, and to commence my march -to the Ozark mountains as soon as possible. - -On arriving at the camp I tied up the skin with strips of bark, and -although I took very little of the venison with me, I had a heavy load. -I reached Curly’s in the evening. As it was nearly dark, I had no fancy -for crossing the river at night, and creeping for half an hour through a -cane-brake, with the chance of getting my eyes poked out; so I remained -with Curly. The house was small, but it contained two large bedsteads, -one table, three chairs, two plates, and one cup; a hole in the wall did -duty for the absent window. - -We passed a very pleasant evening. Curly sang well, and gave us a number -of Irish comic songs, till, tired with laughing and the severe exertions -of the day, I rolled myself in my blanket, and laid myself by the fire. -I was up at daybreak, and the river being low, waded through, hastened -to Slowtrap’s, and spread out my skin. Slowtrap was out shooting wild -fowl, which had collected in such numbers on a little river running into -the Fourche le Fave, that I never saw any thing like it; they positively -covered the water, and a good double-barrelled gun might have done -immense havoc, particularly as the steep banks favored the approach to -within thirty yards of the ducks. - -Supposing the old fellow not to be far off, I took my rifle, and lounged -down to the brink of the river; not with any intention of shooting, as -my rifle had too large a bore; but I came upon a string of ducks, not -more than fifteen yards off. This was too enticing; I raised the gun, -and off went the golden green head of the largest of them. I reloaded, -fished out my bird, and was turning up the stream, when I heard -Slowtrap’s gun above a mile off, and as I had no intention of walking so -far, I took my duck by the neck and walked home. Where was my home? -Wherever I happened to be--where I had erected a bark shed, or spread my -blanket, or lighted a fire, or where the hospitable roof of a farmer or -backwoodsman received me; though the next morning might find me with all -my goods on my back--no heavy burden--seeking new shooting-ground, and a -new home. What then?--I went home, and commenced mending my old -moccasins once more, though they were almost worn out; and as I had some -tanned deer-skin, I cut out a new pair, for the others would have never -survived a long march. - -[Illustration] - - - - -CHAPTER IX. - -HUNTING ANECDOTES AND EXPERIENCES--CHRISTMAS--CONWELL AND HIS -REMINISCENCES. - - A backwoods gun--Anecdote of a panther--My dog - “Bearsgrease”--Collmar’s house--Hunting a tame bear--Hunting - expedition--Hailstorm--Spirit-seller--Route of Eastern Indians; - their sufferings--The “Mulberry” river--Christmas-eve--Conwell, the - old settler--Hunting with Conwell--His age and robust frame--A - bear--Fat turkeys--Anecdotes of the Indians; their - cunning--Anecdote of the moccasins--Method of hanging up - deer--Dangerous work with a buck--Anecdote of a - buffalo-hunt--successful sport. - - -Meantime it grew dusk, and Slowtrap returned with seven ducks, three of -which had had their heads shot off. Meat was now plentiful. After S. had -made himself comfortable--that is to say, had taken off his hat, laid -aside his rifle and pouch, pulled off his wet shoes and stockings, taken -unto himself a slice of cold turkey, with its appropriate maize bread -and boiled pumpkin, seated himself with his feet to the fire, cut off a -piece of his chair to make a toothpick, and begun complacently to pick -his teeth, a sure sign that he felt comfortable, all which operations -took about three quarters of an hour--he asked, “Well, what’s the news?” -As the answer was not encouraging, another long pause ensued. When it -was quite dark, and a good fire was burning, his wife brought us some -bread and milk, of which he partook largely, and then began to thaw, -and speak of his exploits: he had fired eleven times, and his piece had -missed fire twenty-seven times, a habit the old flint gun had; but he -had nevertheless brought home seven ducks, and he had seen a fresh -panther trail; the panther had probably seen him from a tree, and jumped -down and escaped. - -He took particular notice of my panther skin, and thought that there -must be a number of them about, but that formerly there were more than -twice as many in Kentucky. “Ah, at that time,” said he, “a man might -shoot five or six deer before breakfast, and once I had got up at -daylight, and shot two noble bucks, and stalked a third for half a mile, -when he got scent of me, and escaped. I was tired with my exertions, and -had scarcely any sleep all night, for a rascally panther had been -howling near me, and several times came so close to the fire that I -could make out his form, though he never gave me time to put a ball into -him with certainty. So I threw myself under a tree, to rest a little, -meaning then to continue my sport; but somehow my eyes closed -unconsciously;--and I can’t say how long I may have lain there, when, -still half asleep, I heard a strong rustling amongst the dry leaves -which surrounded me, and felt that they were being thrown over me, so -that I was quite covered in a few minutes. Surprise at first, and then -an instinct of danger, which I did not quite understand, kept me -motionless, awaiting the result: before I had formed any resolution, I -heard something moving stealthily away, and cautiously raising my head, -saw a panther disappear in the thicket. My first act was to jump up and -look to my priming, and as I saw nothing more of the beast, though I -was sure that it would return, I resolved to oppose cunning to cunning. -A piece of a broken bough lay near; I dragged it to the spot, and -covered it carefully with dried leaves--then, slinging my rifle on my -back, I mounted a neighboring oak to await in patience, but with a -beating heart, the conclusion of the adventure, as the panther might -return at any moment. I may have sat for rather more than half an hour, -my eyes steadfastly fixed on the place where the panther had vanished, -when the bough began to move, and the female panther (for a female it -turned out to be), reappeared with two cubs, intending, no doubt, that I -should serve as supper for the family. This time she had reckoned -without her host. I remained silent and motionless in the tree, watching -every movement and keeping the rifle in readiness. She crept stealthily -to within fifteen paces of the spot where she had left me covered up -with leaves, and crouched down with her green eyes glaring upon the log; -the next instant she made a spring, struck the claws of both her fore -feet into it, and buried her sharp fangs deep in the rotten wood. When -she found herself deceived she remained for a moment or two in the same -attitude, quite confounded. I did not leave her much time for -consideration; my ball crashed through her brain, and she fell dead on -her supposed prey, without a moan. I killed the two young ones easily -enough.” - -He had hardly finished the anecdote, when the dogs began to bark, and, -by and by, we jumped up to see what was the matter. It was a neighbor, -named Collmar, from the other side of the hill. I took the - -[Illustration: THE PANTHER AT FAULT.] - -saddle off his horse, and laid it under one of the beds, tied up the -horse to a young tree, shoved a roughly-hewn trough before him, which I -filled with maize, and his eager munching proved how well he was -satisfied with all the proceedings. Collmar had come over the hill to -invite us to assist in erecting a new house. He had collected all the -logs on the spot, and now, according to American custom, was calling on -his neighbors to come and assist in raising them. S. was his nearest -neighbor but one, and lived nine miles distant; the next dwelt eight -miles further. - -I promised to come at all events, but it was against Slowtrap’s habit to -promise any thing two days in advance. Besides, his wife and his -youngest child were both unwell. We shortened the evening with stories -and anecdotes. Collmar was off with the dawn to prepare for the -following day. I took my rifle and lounged into the forest with -Bearsgrease to look for a turkey. He drove a gang into the trees, at -less than half a mile from the house; but the wood was so thick and -overgrown, that before I could come up to see which trees they had -perched in, they had so hidden amongst the branches that there was not a -trace of them to be seen. I therefore whistled for my dog, and hid -behind a tree to await the time when they would think themselves safe, -and begin to call. I had not long to wait; ere long they began to cry, -and about a hundred yards in front of me, a large cock raised himself on -a branch, where he had nestled without my perceiving him. Without trying -to get nearer, I took aim at once, and hit the turkey, which fell -flapping from the tree; but the bushes were so thick that I should have -lost him, had not Bearsgrease dashed in with the greatest intrepidity, -in spite of thorns and creepers. The turkey, whose fall had been broken -by the wild vines, had no sooner touched the ground, than he made a -quick run for a cane-brake, and disappeared, with Bearsgrease bounding -and barking on his trail. On forcing my way through the canes, I -witnessed an interesting struggle between the two. The dog was still -young, and the turkey a fellow of twenty or twenty-two pounds; and -Bearsgrease, knowing that he must not injure him, tried to hold him with -his fore paws, whilst the turkey, which was only wounded in the left -wing, constantly succeeded in escaping, and running a yard or two before -the dog could pin him again. After watching them for some time, I put an -end to the struggle by cutting off the turkey’s head with my knife, and -carried him home. I then saddled Slowtrap’s old pony, and set off over -the mountain to gain Collmar’s house before night, leaving Bearsgrease -behind me. - -The hills and rivers south of the Arkansas almost all run, like that -river, from west to east, and the hills have a peculiar formation. The -middle row or back-bone ridge is the highest, and generally on either -side are two or three lower ranges of hills, running parallel to the -main range, and sloping more and more towards the plain. All the smaller -rivers which run into the Arkansas from this side, have such hills -between them. I rode slowly up and down these hills looking out for -game. I had left my hunting-shirt behind, and a sharp north wind began -to chill me a little; but I did not like covering myself with the -blanket which lay across my saddle. Suddenly I saw a fox watching me -from the side of a hill beyond a little brook. I raised myself slowly in -the saddle, and fired; but my hand shook so with the cold that I missed -him. After the report, when the smoke cleared away, the fox had -disappeared; I jumped off and ran to the place where he had been -standing, to see if I could find traces of the ball--finding none I -reloaded, and returned to the horse, which was quietly grazing. With my -left foot in the stirrup, and in the act of throwing my right leg over -the saddle, what was my astonishment to see the fox in the same place as -before, looking as unconcerned as if nothing had happened! I had to turn -my horse before I could take aim, and the fox turned at the same time. A -loud whistle made him stop for a moment to see what it was; he was off -again before I could fire, but not quick enough to escape my ball. The -jump he gave showed he was hit; so, throwing myself off the horse, I -hastened after him. When he heard the bushes rustling, he stood still to -listen. This allowed me to approach him: the shot had broken his left -hind leg; and, throwing away every thing that hindered me in running, I -darted after him. Dragging his wounded leg, he limped along the side of -the hill; but, finding that I gained on him, he turned towards the -summit. I had run for a good half mile, and too much out of breath to -breast the hill, I soon lost sight of him. Heated and tired, I returned -to the horse, picking up my rifle, powder-horn, pouch, and cap, by the -way, enveloped myself in my blanket, and mounted my patient steed. - -I soon crossed the highest summit of the range, and running down by the -side of a small stream southwards from the hills, in about an hour and -a half arrived at the place where Collmar’s house was to be built, and -where some of those who had arrived before me were occupied in cutting -the logs. - -The ground was already prepared and planks cut; other neighbors arrived -from time to time with their dogs and guns, and the clearing was filled -with laughing, talkative groups. - -The horses were hobbled near some reeds, with plenty of maize shaken -down in a dry place. In the evening, we all assembled at Collmar’s hut, -or rather shed, formed of boards fastened together, supported by poles, -and containing three roughly-hewn bedsteads, a weaver’s loom, and two -spinning-wheels. It may have been about fifty feet long and twenty wide, -with the floor as nature supplied it. Rifles and saddles lay about; -three pairs of deer hams adorned one corner, and dried pumpkins hanging -to poles, formed the sky to this paradise. - -Immense blazing logs were heaped up in one blackened corner, and from -time to time it was necessary to throw a pail of water over the fire to -prevent the planks from burning; and then clouds of ashes threatened us -with the fate of Herculaneum and Pompeii. - -All sorts of cooking utensils were crowded round the fire--a turkey was -stuck upon a stick to roast by the side of an opossum, dangling on a -string from the roof. Notwithstanding my long abode amongst people who -were passionately fond of this article of food, I could never bring -myself to eat a thing with a rat’s head and tail, and hand-like claws. -The prospect of a good supper was a delight to my hungry stomach. -Meantime, I was much diverted by a bargain about cows going on between -two old backwoodsmen: but, before discussing this subject, it will be as -well to say something of the other inmates of the shed. Collmar’s wife, -a stout, strong-built woman of about thirty-four, with two daughters of -fourteen and ten, were all that belonged to the fair sex. They were -busily employed about the fire with long-handled spoons, turning the -meat in the frying-pans, and basting the turkey and opossum; five -smaller figures, with a tin pot of milk in one hand and a lump of maize -bread in the other, huddled near the fire, stared at the strangers with -all their eyes. The hostess soon made room for the company by sending -the children to bed. But to return to the bargainers about the cows. -Instead of each praising his own cow, they found so much fault with -them, that their own calves, if they had heard it, must have felt -ashamed of them. After above an hour’s discussion on the faults and -failings of their horned property, they observed that they could not -part with them without giving something into the bargain, as even their -hides were worth nothing. These calumnies were put an end to by the -announcement, “Supper is ready.” Boxes, chairs, and logs were placed -round the table for seats. Turkey, venison, pork, opossum, maize bread, -and the favorite beverage of the backwoodsman, coffee, disappeared so -rapidly that soon nothing was left but the bones of the animals, the -remembrance of the bread, and the grounds of the coffee. One after -another rose when he had had enough, and then the woman-folk, who had -wisely kept something for themselves, took their places. This is one of -the customs of the West which always displeased me. The hostess seldom -sits down to table with the men, except now and then at tea or coffee. -The other custom, that of rising when they had had enough, without -regard to those who remained at table, was not so bad. - -After supper the company formed various groups, and the conversation -turned on shooting, pasture grounds, the survey of the land that had -recently been accomplished, and then on religion. Words soon ran high; -for among the company were Methodists, Baptists, Presbyterians, and -unbelievers--but all disputes were put an end to by the arrival of two -large jugs of whiskey, each containing about four bottles, which Collmar -had sent his eldest son, a lad of fifteen, to fetch from a distant -store. The boy had been obliged to ride slowly for fear of breaking the -jugs. - -The old bear-shooters were highly amused at the following account one of -the party gave of a bear-hunt that had occurred in North Carolina, and -which gave a sad picture of the low state to which field sports had -fallen there. “In order to have a bear-hunt several farmers met, and let -loose a tame two-year-old bear, giving him half an hour’s law, and then -following with horse and hound. The bear made straight for some hills, -and in about an hour and a half’s time was chased into a tree. Not -wishing to kill him, no one had brought a rifle; so I went to a house -about half a mile off, and borrowed an axe to cut down the tree. The -bear looked with inquisitive eyes on the proceedings below, and did not -appear to suspect danger, till the tree fell with a tremendous crash; -men and dogs threw themselves on the half-stunned bear, to secure him -and take him home; but the majority voted for another hunt, so the dogs -were held in and the bear let loose. After a time, we all went after him -again; this time the chase lasted longer, as the bear swam a river, and -to avoid a wetting we turned off to a bridge, giving the bear a great -advantage. At length, when we got close to him, he took to an enormous -fir-tree, and we all assembled under it; none of us knew how to get him -down again. We were several miles from any house, and had left the axe -behind us, and he seemed to set us at defiance in his lofty position. -Nevertheless he did not seem quite at his ease, and kept looking -anxiously first on one side, and then on the other, at the dogs who were -jumping and barking round the trunk of the tree. This inspired an old -Virginian of the party with a new idea. There were several pine branches -lying about; so, taking up one of the heaviest and longest, he commenced -striking the tree with all his force. At the first blow, the bear gave a -start as if electrified, and at the second or third he darted down like -lightning among the dogs, when he was soon secured and taken home. He -was once more allowed to run about for a couple of years, when he grew -very fat, and in good condition for killing, and he was slaughtered -accordingly.” When the story was ended, we wrapped ourselves in our -blankets, and slept soundly, though occasionally disturbed by some -thirsty souls who rose to get a drink. It was lucky for those who were -lying in the outer rows that most of the water seekers wore moccasins. - -We were up at daybreak, and prepared to build the house by first making -a large fire to warm our hands and feet. A man with an axe stood in each -corner of the rising house, to cut the mortices and fit them into each -other, while the rest of the party raised the logs; no trifling labor, -as the house was to have two stories. By the evening, it was all up -except the roof, when rain began to fall, and the logs became too -slippery to admit of our standing on them; so the completion was left -till dry weather. - -We remained the night at Collmar’s, and departed next day on our various -ways, after a very frugal breakfast, for we had devoured all his store. - -It was cold and foggy, and I was glad to get to Hogarth’s, where I -passed the night, returning next day to Slowtrap’s. On relating the -extraordinary behavior of the fox; he gave one of his smiles, and told -many droll stories of the tricks of foxes, and one of a wild-cat, which -attacked a man in the marshes of the Cash. The man had gone out early in -the morning to shoot a turkey, and hearing a cock gobbling away with all -his might, he placed himself behind a fallen tree, and began to use his -call, when a wild-cat, probably deceived by the sound, sprang upon him -like a fury, and attempted to bite through the veins of his neck. He -found it impossible to pull the beast off, and was obliged to kill it -behind his back with his scalping-knife; he was confined to his bed for -several weeks, before he recovered from the ugly wounds caused by the -cat’s teeth and claws. - -The weather cleared up next morning, and as old Slowtrap was still -unprepared for his journey, I resolved to cross the river to shoot, and -went to Curly’s on the same day. As the deer kept themselves close hid -in the daytime, we determined to have a shot in the night. An iron pan -was soon prepared, and with my old German game-bag, which had -accompanied me in all my wanderings, full of kindlers, our rolled-up -blankets on our shoulders, we set off as soon as it was dark. A sharp -wind had made the leaves so dry in the course of a few hours, that our -footsteps might be heard at three hundred yards off; consequently we saw -no deer, and after carrying the pan to and fro for about three hours, we -got tired of such useless trouble. On arriving at a small stream, we -made a good fire, and after a frugal supper had set our chins for a very -short time in motion, we rolled ourselves in our blankets, and lay down -each with his dog pressed close to his side. - -We rose at daybreak, and following different routes, appointed a -rendezvous at Curly’s, as we did not mean to make a long affair of it. -Bad luck seemed to stick to us, for though we found plenty of trails, we -saw no game. At length Bearsgrease found a fresh trail, and followed it -up, often looking round to see if I was near him; so I kept as close as -possible. Suddenly he stood still and pointed, and an old buck got up -about fifty yards from us, and made a half circle round us. When I gave -a hail, he stood still as if to ask what I wanted. It happened that I -was to windward of him; and snuffing the air he gave a bound, which -caused my ball to strike too far backwards under his spine, bringing him -on his haunches. Bearsgrease had been observing it all with remarkable -patience, only turning his head from one to the other;--but now giving -vent to his eagerness he darted on the deer, seized him by the jaw, and -springing over his back, brought him to the ground. I had now a good -opportunity of cutting the deer’s throat, but wished to give the dog a -little practice, and I watched the struggle with the greatest interest. -The buck was one of twelve branches, and had the full use of the -forepart of his body. He strove to hit the dog with his sharp hoof, and -to run his horns into him; but the dog cleverly eluded all his attempts, -and at last seizing him by the throat, held him fast, while I ended his -torments with my knife. - -As Slowtrap had assured me that he would be ready to make the -long-expected journey in a few days, I would not delay. I skinned the -deer, packed the two haunches in the skin, fed the dog, and trudged away -heavily laden up and down hill to Curly’s house. - -Slowtrap was not ready. It was quite out of his character to be hurried. -I saw no end of his awful procrastination; yet there was nothing left -for it but patience. On my arrival, he was busy making a sledge to draw -wood, that his wife might have enough for several weeks; this was no -trifle, considering what enormous logs were consumed in these -fireplaces. - -The next day was a washing-day--and a washing-day in most places, and in -Arkansas in particular, is an awful thing to a man whether married or -not. Curly’s young wife and sister had volunteered to assist, and to me -was deputed the honor of escorting them; I buckled a blanket on the -horse, and rode over, but as all three could not find room at once, I -had to make two trips. All the American women are good riders. Curly’s -wife jumped up lightly behind me, and held on by my belt. Away we went -at a gallop through the foaming though shallow river and thick forest, -to Slowtrap’s house, where having safely deposited my charge, I hastened -back for the sister. I had now to think of my own safety, as it would -have been foolhardiness to have remained near three women on a -washing-day. Being tired from yesterday’s exertions, to take a long -walk, I decided on shooting wild-fowl; so seizing S.’s long rifle with a -hundred balls to the pound, I sauntered down to Porter’s Creek. The -number of ducks was astounding. I lay down in a quiet shady place, and -only fired when a good opportunity offered, Bearsgrease securing the -prize. To be sure he frightened the others away, but only for a time; -they soon returned, and by the evening I had bagged thirteen. - -The two next days were wet and disagreeable. All we could do was to cut -and stack wood. When the sun again shone through the clouds on the moist -smoking ground, it was the 12th of December, and I went again over to -Curly’s to shoot another deer before the journey, if possible. Old -Collmar was there and a young man of the name of Martin, who was rather -eccentric; he was about twenty-five, and had not a single hair on his -head. He used to tell extraordinary stories as to the cause of his -baldness, in which he frequently got confused, when he would start up, -rush out of the house, and never show himself again the whole day. -Sometimes when he was engaged to work, he would steal away, leaving his -wages, and sometimes his clothes. We gained from him, that he had -married a wooden-legged woman in Illinois, and had left her there; but -he told it in such a way that we doubted its truth. He told the most -absurd stories of what he had seen and experienced, and flew into the -most violent passions if the least doubt was manifested. Thus passed the -afternoon. When it was dark C. and I took our firepan to try our luck -once more. We went southwards towards the hills, in the first instance, -and then turned to the westward, the stars shining brightly; but -gradually thick clouds began to appear, and some flashes of lightning -were visible. We continued walking in the same direction without seeing -any deer, and may have gone on about three quarters of an hour when we -came to a clearing. Looking upwards to find our way by the stars, we -saw, to our horror, that the whole sky was one mass of black clouds. I -had now left my compass at home, the wind blew in violent gusts, and -thunder in the distance kindly gave us notice that a storm was -approaching. - -Nothing is easier than to lose one’s way in the forest by torchlight; -for the fire lights up only a few paces around, giving a peculiar -appearance to the trees, and all beyond thirty yards is the blackest -darkness, and all points of the compass look alike. I now recollected -that when I last carried the pan (for we took it in turns), I had -observed it was lightning under the north star, which was not then -covered by clouds, and we concluded that the storm must have advanced -towards the east. A heavy clap of thunder informed us that we had no -time to lose; so we beat our retreat, keeping the lightning on the left -hand. We may have been about two miles from Curly’s house; the lightning -came quicker and brighter, the thunder louder, and we fled like two -ghosts with our waving flame, when by one of the flashes Curly -distinguished the roof of his abode; we hastened to it as fast as our -legs would carry us, dashed in, and fastened the door, just as the hail -came down as if it was trying to split every plank on the roof. As we -looked at each other we broke into such an immoderate fit of laughter, -that we could scarcely recover ourselves. The noise of our arrival, the -thunder, hail, and our loud laugh awoke all the inmates. Martin’s -handkerchief, which he wore at night to cover his pate, had slipped off, -and his queer appearance, as he looked at us with astonishment, set us -off laughing again. - -Meantime the hail gave place to heavy rain; but “savage tyrants reign -not long,” and presently the beauteous stars looked down quite cheerily -upon us. - -Storms are frequent in Arkansas, and occasionally hurricanes, which will -sweep a district of a mile in width and several miles in length, -levelling every thing in their path. After a time blackberries, thorns, -and creepers, grow so luxuriantly over the heaps of fallen trees, as to -make the thickets quite impenetrable in many places, offering a secure -refuge to bears, &c. - -On returning to Slowtrap’s, we began in earnest to make preparations for -the long-expected, long-delayed journey. In S.’s good steel mill we -ground flour enough to last the family till his return, put our knives -and rifles in order, and finally started on the morning of the 19th of -December. - -It was a bright cold winter’s day, when, with our three dogs bounding -about us, we commenced our march; Slowtrap on his nag, which carried, -besides, a sack of provisions, our blankets, and my skins, while I -stepped out briskly in a hunting-shirt, leggings, and moccasins, an -untanned raccoon-skin-cap, and with no pack to carry. S. as he sat on -his horse looked as if he must weigh at least twenty stone, his wife had -heaped so many clothes on him, while my accoutrements were all of summer -stuff; but the exercise prevented me from feeling cold, as we jogged -along a small cart-track through the thick forest. - -The first part of our journey led through marshes, but we soon reached -the hills that divide the “petit Jean” from the “Fourche le Fave,” and -with them, dry land. The people of Yell county had selected a spot near -the “petit Jean” for a new county seat for the sessions. The infant town -consisted of exactly the same number of buildings as Perryville, viz. -two houses and a stable. When a town is founded in America, the streets -are first marked off, by cutting away a piece of bark from the trees, -and boards are nailed up at the corners with the names, such as, -Main-street, Second-street, Walnut-street, Elm-street, &c., and -sometimes, when in the forest, a man may find that he is in the high -street of a town. - -If the position of the new-born, newly-christened town be a good one, it -grows incredibly fast; in the contrary case, it looks desolate -enough--merchants and travellers desert it, houses are left unfinished -and fall to pieces, and the court-house, as I once saw near White River, -may be turned into a corn-crib. - -In Danville, as the town was called, a speculative genius had -established a small store, having removed from the Arkansas, about -twenty miles off, with a cask of whiskey, and for whiskey or money he -bought all skins he could find. He had also powder, lead, coffee, -sugar, and lucifer matches; the latter article are wretchedly made in -America. I exchanged all my skins for powder, lead, and coffee. - -From hence, somewhat lightened, we proceeded to Spring Creek, which is -thickly settled, one good farm bordering another, till we passed the -water-mill, where they ceased, and we prepared for the night, which -looked threatening. We halted by an overthrown pine-tree, unloaded the -horse, and gave him some corn, collected firewood, and made a hut. Pine -bark lay about in heaps; though worm-eaten in many places, it answered -for want of better, and, used in double and treble layers, it made a -very respectable sort of shed. When I thought it was finished, being -rather tired, I flung myself on the ground; but my companion was not so -easily satisfied; he laid on one piece of bark after another, and spread -some to keep our limbs from the damp earth, and, whether I wished it or -not, I must up and help till he pronounced “That’ll do.” Our simple -supper was soon over; he then pulled off his shabby old coat, folded it -up carefully, and laid it on his saddle as an extra pillow, spread his -blanket on the pine bark with the edge to the fire, so that in lying on -it, and covering himself with the other half, he might admit the warmth. -After adding a few more logs to the fire, he pulled off his shoes, -placing them near him with the soles upwards, that they might not fill -with water in case of rain; he hung his socks under the bark roof, to -keep them properly warm and dry; then laying himself carefully on his -blanket, and covering himself with the other half, he was soon asleep. - -I could not sleep, but lay close to the fire, which I kept stirring with -a stick, making it crackle, and raising showers of sparks, which were -carried by the wind far away into the dark forest, while I gave audience -to my various thoughts. At length some pattering drops warned me that it -was time to seek shelter in the warm shed. - -The rising sun found us again on the march, and nothing remarkable -occurred till evening, when we passed an old plum orchard of the -Cherokees. It was an unenclosed space, several miles in circumference, -thickly covered with bushes from two to six feet high, bearing small, -round, very sweet plums, which ripen in August. Similar plum orchards -are found in many places near the Arkansas and Mississippi. - -We struck the Arkansas before dark, opposite the little town of -Pittsburg, and crossed over. As our purses were in a weak condition, we -did not enter the town, but lighted a fire on the river’s bank, made a -shed of some planks which had been driven on shore, probably from a -sunken boat, and were soon well housed. As we had marched quick, and -kept in our dogs for fear of losing them, we had seen no game; our -provisions were rather low, and henceforth the horse had no further -weight to carry than the well-packed, goodly person of my companion, who -now and then got off to give me a lift. We husbanded our stores so well, -that we had something for supper and breakfast, and to feed the dogs, -and laid ourselves comfortably down in our blankets. - -Next day we passed along a part of the route by which some years ago a -numerous body of eastern Indians, having given up their lands to the -United States on condition of receiving other equally good lands in the -West, were conducted by the parties who had engaged to provide for them -on their journey. Numerous square holes cut in the fallen trees showed -where the squaws had pounded their maize to make bread. More melancholy -traces were visible in the bones of human beings and animals which were -strewed about. Many a warrior and squaw died on the road from -exhaustion, and the maladies engendered by their treatment; and their -relations and friends could do nothing more for them than fold them in -their blankets, and cover them with boughs and bushes, to keep off the -vultures, which followed their route by thousands, and soared over their -heads; for their drivers would not give them time to dig a grave and -bury their dead. The wolves, which also followed at no great distance, -soon tore away so frail a covering, and scattered the bones in all -directions. This is a sad instance of the abominable haggling spirit so -prevalent in America. The government, to avoid trouble, had contracted -with individuals for a certain sum, which was quite sufficient to have -conveyed the poor Indians comfortably; but they were obliged to part -with all they had for bread, selling their rifles and tomahawks, horses -going for two and three dollars; and, while they died of hunger and -distress, the contractors made a fortune. - -About three in the afternoon we reached the Ozark mountains, and passed -close by some farm buildings where there were several tame white -turkeys. My dog, who was a capital fellow for turkeys, had as yet never -seen any but wild, consequently black ones. He gave a side glance or -two at them, and then passed on without further notice, until one -crossed the road, and he came on the fresh trail, which he followed on -the instant; but when he got close to the white bird, he kept first -looking at the one, and then smelling at the other, as much as to say, -“They don’t agree,” while the turkey walked off with long strides, -turning his head from side to side to examine the stranger who was so -close at his heels, and whose intentions he rather seemed to doubt. I -called off the dog, and we stepped out at a good pace up a narrow ravine -by the banks of a mountain stream. Narrow as the ravine was, we found -houses in places where no one, at least no reasonable being, could ever -have supposed they would have been erected, there being so little arable -land near. One place particularly amused me--a turnip field, about sixty -paces square, from one corner of which I saw smoke rising. As there was -no trace of a building or of a human being to be seen, I was anxious to -discover where the smoke came from, and on reaching the corner of the -field, I found myself looking straight down a chimney. The house was -built in a little hollow in the rock, probably to avoid encroaching on -any part of the useful ground. But what could induce people to settle in -such a hole, when so much good land was to be had in Arkansas, was more -than I could divine. - -We now turned to the left, and crossed the first spur towards the summit -of the hills that divide the Mulberry from the Arkansas. The ascent was -rather steep, but we surmounted it without mishap, and were rewarded -with a beautiful view over the country we had passed. While I was seated -on a high piece of rock, contemplating the prospect, Slowtrap rolled a -large stone to the edge of the declivity; then pushing it over, he set -the dogs after it--these hearing the noise, flew in wild haste down the -steep. The stone at first moved slowly, but as it gathered way in its -descent, it made bounds of twenty and thirty feet, broke off young -trees, and went thundering to the bottom in clouds of dust, the dogs -still in chase. I did not much like it, fearing they might break their -legs or necks. Bearsgrease came back first, crouching and wagging his -tail, as if he knew that he had committed an egregious folly. The others -returned later, puffing and snorting. S. seemed to have been much -amused: he sat comfortably on a rock, with his bridle on his left arm, -and looked on without moving a muscle of his countenance. - -We had a long march before us. It was ten miles to the nearest house, -and we had nothing eatable left, either for ourselves or the horse; it -was moreover getting dark. S. said we must keep on the hill for six or -seven miles, and then turn down towards the Mulberry to the house. - -It grew darker and darker. A narrow unfrequented footpath covered with -yellow leaves was our only guide, which I followed up with undivided -attention, Slowtrap riding slowly after me. A thin penetrating rain set -in with the night; yet, indefatigably, and with my nose nearly on the -ground, I kept to the almost invisible path, till about ten o’clock, -when I stopped, and told Slowtrap that either the path ended here, or I -had missed it; which of the two was the case I could not say. Slowtrap, -who had followed patiently without speaking a word, asked if I thought -I could find the trail again on retracing my steps. The weather was not -favorable for conversation; I shouldered my rifle, went some way back, -made a circle, and found a strip of darker ground amongst the leaves. I -called out, and my companion came, leading his horse, and said that I -might ride, and he would follow up the path, as his eyes were more -accustomed to forest work than mine. Tired with the long day’s march, I -was not sorry for this, and was soon in the saddle, while Slowtrap, -stooping low, preceded me about two hundred paces; but he came to a -stand where I had stopped, and said the path ended there. We could not -be far from the descent to the Mulberry, for the trees were thinner, and -Slowtrap said that if it were not so dark, we might be able to see the -whole of its valley. At present nothing was to be seen but our miserable -plight. - -It is dangerous to lose one’s way in these hills, as precipices occur -where least suspected. The rain now fell in torrents, and we were as wet -as drowned rats. At length we decided on descending the hill straight -before us, lead where it would. It was steep and slippery, and although -we led the horse, we were often in danger of falling into one of the -steep ravines; we passed so near one that we heard the stones fall to -the bottom as they were kicked away by the horse’s feet. - -It may have been about eleven o’clock when the dogs gave the first signs -of life, by a growl and a low bark. Then the oldest of them, a good old -fellow, covered with honorable scars, gave a short howl. It was answered -by several dogs in the distance; this inspired us with fresh courage, -and we hastened down the hill towards the sound. When the strange dogs -left off barking, we easily excited them again by imitating the howl of -a wolf. We gained at once the foot of the hill and a mountain stream, -and came to a small house, from whence we had heard the bark of the -dogs. We entered and obtained shelter, but no hearty welcome. - -Next morning, as we were not very well pleased with our host, who did -not care about us, and fearing that the rivers we had to cross might -swell with rain--an event which soon occurs in the mountains--we left at -daylight, and proceeded to a farmer’s, named Davis, about half a mile -off on the other side of the river; here we were received kindly and -hospitably. - -Mr. Davis would by no means allow us to proceed, as it had poured with -rain the whole night, and all the brooks were rushing torrents; so, -taking charge of our things, he made us sit by the fire, and seemed -highly gratified at the pleasure its warmth afforded us. His family were -very agreeable, and I was quite sorry to part with them so soon as the -next morning; but by that time the waters fell, and Slowtrap was in a -hurry to get on. However, it was hard work to get through some of the -rivers, especially as we had but one horse. Luckily my companion knew -the country too well to expose us to the chance of sleeping again in the -forest, and this evening, wet, tired, and half frozen, we arrived at the -abode of an old squatter. - -This day we had crossed the main range of the “Boston divide,” which -parts the waters of the Mulberry from the White river, and found -ourselves on the latter, which, here, we could leap across, though -further down it is navigated by steamers. The country and vegetation -differed considerably from that south of the Arkansas. There was no -trace of fir; the mountains were covered with oak, beech, and hickory, -all at this season without leaves, which, to an eye accustomed to green -hollows, seemed rather mournful and monotonous. It struck me as -extraordinary that the best and most fertile land was on the hill tops, -where, in other places it is generally the worst; here grew black -walnut, wild cherry, with stems sometimes twenty inches in diameter, -black locust, and sugar maple, trees which generally grow only in the -richest soils. The black locust was very frequent, and its long sharp -thorns are by no means pleasant on a journey. - -About noon we passed a log house, at the door of which stood a fat -red-haired man. When we had passed, Slowtrap told me that, four years -ago, that man had bought a clock; and after he had had it two days, he -doubted whether all was right inside; so he took it to pieces, and when -satisfied, put it together again, and people said that when he had done -so, he had wheels enough left for another clock. - -It was Christmas eve, and growing dark. My heart sunk as I remembered -former joys of this season, and thought of my present loneliness. -Strange! that recollections should be so sweet and yet so bitter. - -In good time we arrived at old Conwell’s, Slowtrap’s father-in-law. He -lived in a block-house, surrounded by mountains covered with trees, -close to the bank of the White river, which was narrow enough to be -bridged by a tree. The family were assembled round the fire; Conwell -himself was absent. A matron of pleasing appearance rose from her seat -on the entrance of her son-in-law, and cordially shook his hand, while -two fine boys of eleven and eight jumped up to welcome him; another -person in the room, a young graceful girl, who at first kept modestly in -the background, then came forward to greet her brother-in-law, who -addressed her as Sophy; neither was the stranger overlooked, but -received a hearty welcome from all. I, who, a few minutes before, had -felt so deserted and miserable, now experienced a silent joy, as I -looked on the amiable, honorable countenance of the mother, the mild -expression of the daughter, and the open, happy faces of the two boys. -It was as if I had found new relations, and was once again at home. -Never in my life had I felt, from the first moment, so completely -domesticated as with these people. - -In about half an hour old Conwell came in: if ever uprightness was -stamped upon any countenance, it was upon his; his hair was white as -snow, but his step was as springy as he moved about in his -hunting-shirt, leggins, moccasins, and bare neck, as if he had seen but -twenty years. After we had been seated about an hour, it seemed as if I -had known him from childhood, and the evening flew past with incredible -swiftness. - -The cold was very sharp on Christmas-day, and we were delighting in a -glorious fire, when John, the youngest boy, ran in, and said there was a -large gang of turkeys in the corn. I seized my rifle, called -Bearsgrease, and was soon in the field. No sooner had the dog found the -scent, than he was amongst them, and they flew to the neighboring trees. -I knocked over one, loaded, and tried for another, leaving Bearsgrease -to watch the prize, as several pigs were near us. Not being able to get -another shot, I returned to the dog, and found him with his paws full of -business. Another larger dog had come to have a smell at the turkey; -Bearsgrease, mistaking his intentions and my instructions, attacked the -stranger, threw him over, and held him fast, with the fiercest -countenance in the world; but when he saw me coming he began to wag his -tail, being thus, like Janus, severe in front and amicable behind. I -released the stranger from his disagreeable position, and patted and -soothed Bearsgrease to express my approbation and satisfaction at his -good behavior; but he continued to give an occasional growl and scowl at -the other dog. - -I amused myself for a couple of days with turkey shooting, leaving -Slowtrap time to arrange his affairs, when he informed me that he had -concluded his business quicker than he had expected, and now meant to -return home. This was disagreeable to me for two reasons--first, because -he was a very pleasant companion; and, secondly, because he was so well -acquainted with the mountains. However, there was no persuading him to -remain, and he fixed on the following morning for his departure. - -In the afternoon, as the sun was bright and warm, we formed a merry -party in front of the house; but S. who never could bear lying or -sitting on the cold ground, sat himself on the fence, which was about -five feet high, and told us some of his humorous stories with his usual -gravity. Meantime several cows had assembled on the other side of the -fence. It has already been said that S. wore a shabby old coat, whereof -the tails hung low outside the fence. In the morning he had been walking -about the hills, and had been very hot; and his pocket-handkerchief, -moist with perspiration, was in one of his pockets. It is well known -that cows are fond of salt and saline substances, and they had probably -divined that something of the sort was in one of those pockets. One, -rather bolder than the rest, had quietly approached, taken the flap in -her mouth, and was contentedly chewing it. I had observed the whole -proceeding with great amusement; but fearing that his coat was in danger -of being reduced to a state of pulp, I called out to him to look behind. -He looked round, beheld the cow chewing his coat-tails with the greatest -placidity, and raised one of his long arms to drive her away. The cow, -frightened at the long arm, made a retreat; but unluckily one of the -buttons caught between her teeth, and she gave a sudden wrench to poor -Slowtrap, who was nicely balanced at the top of the fence; in a moment -his legs rose in the air, like the two chimneys of a steamer, and then -his body tumbled to the ground. What happened afterwards, no one could -tell, as we all followed his example, in a convulsion of laughter. - -On the 28th December my old companion mounted his steed, and shaking -hands with his relations and me, was soon out of sight in the forest. I -prepared for the mountains, and Conwell said he would willingly go with -me, but that he had business for some days; I answered, that I would go -first, not to be a burden to him, at which he was much vexed, and -requested me not to go without him, concluding his kind invitation to -remain in his house, by saying that I was “as welcome as the flowers in -May.” I could not withstand this, and remained with much pleasure. He -rode away the same day, and returned on the following evening. In the -afternoon it came on to snow, and continued till late at night, so that -we expected glorious weather for shooting; but our joy did not last -long, for it soon became warm again. Nevertheless we got every thing in -readiness, mended moccasins, cast balls, sharpened knives, and, on the -30th, we proceeded to the Pilot rock, at the source of the Hurricane. -After crossing the Boston divide, we stopped on the slope, where we -found a spring of delicious water, and “struck camp.” The night was -clear and cold, but the heat of the day had spoiled all the beautiful -snow. Stretched before the fire, we rested our weary limbs after the -exertions of the day, and were soon sound asleep, with our dogs beside -us. - -As we were not yet on our intended ground, we rose early, descended the -mountain, crossed the Hurricane, and fixed upon a spot for our night’s -camp, where we left Conwell’s horse, with our blankets, and provisions. -Here we separated to mount the hill on different routes. The Hurricane -is a mountain stream, taking its name from a hurricane which raged near -its mouth some time ago, leaving traces that are still visible. It runs -into the Mulberry, and flows with it into the Arkansas. - -Conwell went to the left, I to the right; the hill was in places so -steep, that I was obliged to lift the dog up before me. At length I -gained a flat terrace. The terrace formation is characteristic of these -mountains; seen from below they do not appear very high, because only -the top of the next division is visible; but when one is surmounted, -another and another arises, and people maintain that when you come to -the highest there is always one more. - -The terrace on which I found myself was about one hundred and eighty -paces wide. Advancing cautiously towards the middle, keeping a sharp -look-out, I perceived a doe quietly grazing, and coming towards me. I -whistled, she stopped, bounded upwards with the shot, ran about fifty -paces towards me, and fell dead. She was in excellent condition--I hung -her up, and went on. At the end of the terrace, where a spring dashed -down the rock, I observed signs of a bear; he had turned over several -stones to find worms, and had bitten off some of the bushes to make a -bed; seeing nothing more, I returned to the camp, to have the help of my -companion to follow up the trail next day, taking half the doe on my -shoulders as I went along. I found Conwell occupied with a very fat -turkey. - -Tired with all the climbing, we wrapped ourselves in our blankets, and -threw ourselves down for a nap; but the sun setting, and wind getting -colder and sharper, did not allow us much repose, but warned us to make -a fire, and a good fire too, for the night. Wood was abundant, and we -had only to move a few steps for as much as we wanted. The sun had -hardly disappeared behind the trees on the western mountains, when it -became dark in our ravine; the twilight did not last more than ten -minutes. It was the last day of the year. In my native land, many a -happy pair were forgetting past pains and sorrows in the tumult of the -dance in lighted halls; while I was stretched under the starry skies -beside a crackling fire in the forest, my trusty rifle and faithful dog -by my side. I had no mind for dancing or music; for seven months I had -not heard from home, and seemed to have got wedged in among the -mountains, with the world closed behind me, all retreat cut off, and -nothing left but to advance: and yet the future offered no inviting -picture; alone, in the endless wilderness, I stood, with hair turning -gray--a solitary hunter, leaning on my rifle, separated from all I -loved. - -Old Hawkeye, must have had many a sorrowful hour. - -Meantime, my companion, leaning on his elbow, was gazing on the fire, -and lost in recollections of the past; but his past must have been a -happy one, for he often smiled to himself. He had lived an active life, -and looked forward to a happy old age, in the circle of an amiable -family, in the vicinity of his married children, in the enjoyment of -health and strength. Wherefore should he be unhappy? - -I stood up to change the current of my thoughts, poked at the fire, laid -the logs together, which were burnt through the middle, and reposed -again on my blanket. Conwell told me he was sixty-two years old to-day, -31st of December, 1841; and yet he was so strong and active that I had -to exert myself to keep up with him. He spoke of his past life; how he -had continually preceded civilization, first in Carolina, then in -Kentucky, Tennessee, Missouri, and now in the Ozark mountains, and he -complained that people were gathering too thick about him, and said he -felt a strong inclination to make another move. He mentioned how -fortunate and happy he was in his family. He spoke of his children, and -as I listened to him my troubled thoughts were soothed; it was as if one -of my own family was speaking. Thus passed our evening till sleep -weighed down our eyelids, and wrapped in our blankets past and future -were forgotten. - -Next morning, as the tips of the western mountains were lighted up with -the first rays of the rising sun, we woke from our lairs, shook off the -wreaths of frost, and joyfully inhaled the fresh morning air; it was -bitter cold, the water in our tin cups was all frozen, as was the meat, -but a breakfast fit for a prince was soon smoking before us--juicy -venison, fat turkey, good strong coffee, and maize bread. Where was the -hotel that could afford fare as good? but man is fated never to be -satisfied--my companion sighed for bear. - -Before breakfast was quite ready I went to the creek which flowed at a -few paces from our camp, to have a good wash, and finding a hole with -deep water as clear as crystal, I threw off my clothes, and plunged -under the cool element. It was a delicious treat, and I did not feel the -cold till I got out; but I was soon by the fire, and by the time I had -my clothes on I felt such an animating glow, and such strength that I -could almost have torn an oak up by the roots. Old C. looked on smiling, -but thought it too cold to plunge in, and contented himself with washing -face, breast, hands, and feet. Thus refreshed, we sat down to breakfast; -turkey, venison, coffee, and bread disappeared with terrific rapidity; -even Bearsgrease appeared surprised sitting with his mouth wide open, -though Conwell maintained that he held it open more conveniently to -catch the morsels I threw to him from time to time; perhaps he was -right. - -After these trifles, half a turkey, and the greater part of a haunch of -venison had been safely disposed of to the general satisfaction, we set -off to look for the bear, tokens of whose whereabout I had seen the day -before. On arriving at the place, the dogs showed signs of excitement, -and running down the steep they soon began to give tongue. We followed -as fast as we could, and came to a large detached rock, behind which a -cave ran into the mountain. Several marks showed that the bear was at -home; the dogs barked furiously, and I laid aside my rifle and pouch, -and was about to enter the cave with my drawn knife, when Bruin began to -suspect mischief. He was right opposite the entrance, but a slight bend -in the cave, which was only eight feet deep, prevented our seeing him. -He would not have cared much for the dogs, but as I approached the wind -was behind me; the moment he discovered me he began snorting and -growling, and made a rush which nearly upset me, although I sprang on -one side. Conwell, who had seen many such affairs, coolly stood at the -entrance with his rifle cocked, watching my proceedings. The report of -the rifle was heard before I and the dogs had recovered our composure -after the rush; the bear seemed to be determined that nothing should -stop him, and disappeared in a gorge; but the dogs, roused by the shot -were soon on his traces. The old man laughed heartily as he saw me -standing knife in hand quite disconcerted at the mouth of the cave, and -regretted that he had not been able to give all his attention to my -admirable jump, as he was obliged to look after the beast. - -We followed the dogs, and on examining a rock which the bear had -crossed, we found drops of dark blood, and were tolerably sure of him. -Weakened with loss of blood, he had not run far before the dogs came up -with him. As they were both young and untrained to bears, he had not -much trouble in keeping them off, but they answered our purpose in -stopping him. I came up just as he had shaken off the dogs, and was -climbing a steep bluff. I fired and struck his right paw, and as he fell -the dogs seized him again; my companion now arrived, and coolly taking -aim, sent a ball through his heart. He was a fat two-year-old, and -promised a delicate repast; we decided on taking him home. So while C. -skinned and cut him up, I returned to the camp to fetch the horse with -our blankets and game, and as I rode past I brought away the other half -of the doe, which was too good to leave behind. As the day was now far -advanced, and the horse had about 200 lbs. to carry, we resolved to camp -for the night near the first spring we came to. - -As we crossed a flat on the top of a mountain we heard a horrible noise -from a large gang of turkeys, a sure sign of bad weather. Conwell sprang -from his horse, and we ran towards the sound. When near enough I cheered -on the dog, and in an instant the whole forest was alive with turkeys. A -great big fellow flapped into a tree about sixty yards in front of me, -and fell to the ground with a ball from my rifle. While loading, I -observed Conwell going about with his rifle at his cheek, carefully -watching all the long necks; then he stopped, took aim, and fired. But -the turkey only reeled on the bough, and recovered himself. As soon as I -was loaded I knocked over a second, and by this time the greater part of -the gang had made off; but the one Conwell had hit sat still, badly -wounded, with the blood dropping fast. Conwell had now loaded again, and -shot him through the head. On my asking why he had not selected another, -as he was sure of this one, he answered, that this was the fattest and -heaviest of the whole gang; and he was right. Mine were both large -birds, but his weighed more by three pounds. He laughed, and said he had -not looked out for the best in vain, and told me, “when the turkeys are -all sitting on the trees, frightened at the dogs, there is no occasion -to be in a hurry to shoot the first that comes--a good sportsman should -choose the best, which is easily done; a short thick neck is the -infallible sign. The leaner the turkey, the longer and thinner his neck. -The bird seems larger, but take care to shoot the thick-necks, and I’ll -wager that they ain’t so bad to eat.” Long experience has since taught -me that he was right, but it required some time before I was cool enough -to look at the turkeys on their perch, and make a choice amongst them. -We opened them on the spot; for it is extraordinary how soon they spoil, -even in cold weather, if this is not done. We threw two of them over the -horse, while I shouldered the third; and in a very short time we came to -a spring of good water, and made a camp for the night. - -One of the results of our camping out, with supper and breakfast, was -the disappearance of one of the turkeys and half the bear’s ribs. With -strength well recruited we set off for the dwelling of my old friend, -and reached it about two in the afternoon. It was dark by the time when -the skins were stretched and the meat salted, when we sat round the fire -and talked over old times. - -We were tired and went betimes to bed, intending to sally forth early -next morning; but the rain poured down the whole night, and we had -forgotten to take our blankets in from the fence, so that, it may be -supposed, they were rather damp; however, we were not vexed. We had -plenty of provisions; a little repose would not hurt us, especially as -we were looking forward to fresh adventures. - -We made ourselves comfortable, provided wood, and had placed ourselves -in a half circle round the fire, when little John ran in and told us -that he was just come from a neighbor’s, who had sent out his negro to -count the little pigs, which a sow was bringing with her out of the -forest. After a little while he came in, and said gravely, that he had -counted nineteen, but that one had run about so, that he could not count -him. Conwell now commenced a story of his early days, in the following -words:--“About forty years ago my parents moved into the Cumberland -mountains; and as the land was good and fertile, and game plentiful, a -little settlement was soon made. We were very comfortable, grew as much -Indian corn as we wanted, had plenty of venison, bear, and wild honey, -and we could always procure powder, coffee, and whatever else we wanted -in exchange for our bears’ fat, skins, &c.; so that every one would have -allowed that we could not be better off, but for one circumstance that -embittered our existence and exposed us to numberless dangers. There was -a tribe of Tuskarora Indians in our vicinity, who had been driven out of -the north, probably by the French, and who plundered and murdered -whenever they found an opportunity. Amongst other things, they had -stolen a number of horses, and that so cunningly, that for a long time -they eluded all our efforts to trace them. The mountains ended in a -bluff several miles long, and from twenty to thirty feet high, so steep -that no bear, let alone a horse, could have descended it. As soon as a -horse was missed, those who went to seek him examined each end of the -cliff, without ever finding any traces of the animal. I was then about -twenty-two years old, and one day I was out with my dog,--and such a dog -I have never seen since. Old Beef here is a good fellow, but that one -had a cross of a bull in him; well, we came on the trail of a fat -bear--for fat he was--of that I had infallible signs; in the first -place, because he had crossed a sandy bed of a small stream where his -footsteps were deeply impressed, showing the balls round and full; -secondly, I found that he had not eaten the acorns with their cups, but -had taken the trouble to separate them. I fancied he could not be far -off, and followed up the trail, which led towards the bluff; at about -two hundred yards from it, he had entered the stony bed of a brook. I -kept close up with the dog, making as little noise as possible, and only -taking my eye off the trail when a turn or higher ground gave me a -chance of seeing the beast. As I proceeded I was astonished to find -traces of horses leading towards the bluff. Two capital horses had been -stolen from us a few nights before, and we had looked everywhere for -traces of them, without success; of course, no one thought of looking on -the edge of the cliff. - -“My previous astonishment was nothing to what I experienced, when I came -to the place, where, after heavy rain, the brook falls over the cliff, -but which in dry weather does not contain a drop of water, and found, -where the depth might be about twenty feet, two fir-trees, rounded, and -placed standing against the rock, just so far apart that a horse might -slide down them, but could not fall through; that this was the use they -had been put to was evident from the marks of the struggles of the -horses, before they were launched, and from patches of horsehair -sticking to the poles. That the bear had descended by these means was -clear from the marks of his claws in the wood. - -“It would not have done for the dog;--besides the discovery was too -important for delay, and I hastened home to give information. We had not -long to wait to turn it to account. The Indians, who had stolen a couple -of horses a few nights before, returned for some more the same evening. -Luckily, our watchmen gave the alarm in time, and they had hardly made -off with their booty, when we started by a nearer road, as they were -obliged to choose the most stony paths, in order to leave as few traces -as possible, and thus made a long circuit. - -“About nine in the morning we arrived opposite the fir-trees, and hid -ourselves in the trees and behind rocks to await the redskins. About -noon we began to think that they must have discovered our trail, and -would not appear; but we resolved to wait till dark. We were fifteen in -all, and decided not to fire till every man was sure of his mark; and, -with beating hearts, we listened for the slightest sounds. We had almost -given up the hopes of seeing them, when a single warrior appeared, in -his blanket dress, and descended the cliff. He was sent to reconnoitre, -and had not the slightest suspicion of danger; for he passed close -before my uncle Ben, who, not able to resist the temptation, or fancying -that he was discovered, I know not which, contrary to his usual caution, -fired. The savage leaped high in the air, and fell on his face without a -groan. - -“Now, whether the Indians thought that their spy had shot something, or -whether they thought themselves strong enough to disregard a single man, -whom chance might have brought to the spot, in less than five minutes -the whole troop were on the edge of the bluff, about eighty paces from -our hiding-place. They had with them only the four horses which they had -lately stolen, and as we well knew that it would be vain to seek them if -once their suspicions were roused, we took aim in silence. The party -consisted of nine men, four of them on horseback; we might easily have -killed them all, but were too eager to recover the horses; so it -happened that all aimed at the riders. I had not been in quite such a -hurry, and when the others turned to fly I aimed at one just as he was -entering the thicket; he gave a spring and threw off his blanket; I saw -the blood spurt out, but he was soon out of sight, and as I could not -find his body, I think he must have escaped. - -“We took the arms and dresses of the slain, bound them on the horses, -left the corpses to the wolves and vultures, and entered the settlement -in triumph the same evening. It was long before we saw any thing more of -the Tuskaroras, who withdrew in alarm towards Lake Ontario.” - -By this time dinner was ready, and after dinner we took a siesta; then, -what with reading and conversation, it was evening before we were aware. -I was now asked to give information about the old world, and to tell -them whether kings would take off people’s heads when they chose--and -how houses were built when there was so little wood--and what people did -in the winter. They were much astonished when I mentioned that we did -not grow Indian corn, nor let the cattle run wild; but when I said that -we sometimes planted trees, the children shook their heads, and even the -old ones thought that I was practising on their credulity; they also -wanted to know if kings and queens always wore their crowns, and if they -walked about with their sceptres, and what the nobility looked like. - -Next morning, starting with the rising sun, we took a direction towards -the Richland and War-eagle, two streams which flow into the White river. -We took no provisions with us, but rode out with only the blankets on -the horses, as Conwell supposed we should find plenty of game. On -arriving on our ground, we turned the horses loose, who bent their steps -homewards, grazing as they went. We took different courses, agreeing to -return in the evening to the place where our blankets were hanging up. I -walked cautiously and slowly, but saw nothing of either deer or turkey; -once I heard the report of C.’s rifle. When I returned to the camp I -made a good fire, spread my blanket, placed my rifle in readiness, and -laid me down to rest. About sunset I heard a light step; at first I -thought it was a deer--it was Conwell, without game or dog. He sat down -by my side on the blanket, and observing that he supposed I must be very -hungry, he gave a faint smile, and said that he could fast until -tomorrow evening. He might well laugh. He said his dog was after a deer -which he had shot, and, judging from the marks, he must have been hit in -the fleshy part of the haunch; the dog, being young, could not be called -off after once catching the scent, and dog and deer were soon out of -sight. - -While he was talking, Bearsgrease rose up and snuffed the air; Conwell -thought it must be his dog who had found his trail. As I supposed so too -I took no notice, until I thought I heard a short bark, and Bearsgrease, -growling lightly, gave me a significant look. I jumped up with my rifle, -and in a minute a noble buck, with horns laid back, rushed by at full -speed, at about twenty paces from the camp. I sent a ball into him, and -my dog was instantly close on his heels. He did not run far; my ball had -broken the left leg, and passed through the right. After running about -200 paces, he sprang into the Richland, on whose banks we were encamped, -and seemed resolved to sell his life as dearly as possible. The dogs -were upon him, but, as they were forced to swim, while he touched the -bottom, he had not much difficulty in shaking them off again. Conwell -remained lying as if it were no concern of his, so I seized his rifle, -ran to the bank, ended the poor animal’s torments with a ball through -his brain, and plunged into the water to pull him out. Now we had meat -in plenty; the skin and haunches were hung up, the ribs roasted, and the -dogs fed before dark. - -We slept well all night, and were up early, but the leaves were so dry -that we found nothing but one turkey, which Conwell knocked over. -However, the sky began to get cloudy, and as we had meat for the -present, our hopes rose. It came on to blow from the north, but we were -protected by a bank of about ten feet high, and though we could not sit -close to it on account of sharp stones, yet it kept off some of the cold -wind, and a glorious fire soon made us forget it. - -Supper was over, and Conwell had taken off one of his moccasins to take -a stone out, when he said that it reminded him of something that had -happened to him a long time ago when he was a child. I was already -covered up in my blanket, but finding that he had a mind to talk, I -roused up, gave the fire a poke that made the sparks fly, and leaning -back, with Bearsgrease for a pillow, who seemed well pleased with the -arrangement, I awaited the commencement of his narrative. - -When I got up, Conwell stopped; but now passing his hand over his face, -he began:-- - -“I was between five and six years old when my father made my first pair -of moccasins, for he was a very good shoemaker, and had always made -strong shoes for children, though he himself always wore moccasins; but, -at my earnest, repeated request, he made a pair for me, and warned me -particularly not to lose them. On this same day a peddler had been in -the house, and had persuaded my father to buy a pair of large boots, as -very serviceable for bad weather;--and as it had rained a great deal -lately, he put them on, took his rifle, and sallied forth to the forest. -He was hardly gone when I wished to wear my new moccasins; and, to my -horror, found that one was missing. In vain I searched the house from -top to bottom; it was gone, and the other seemed to be there only to -remind me of my loss, and the punishment awaiting me. With a beating -heart I saw my father return earlier than I had expected, out of humor -with the bad weather and bad sport; and he asked roughly, why I was -running about barefoot. With tears in my eyes I told him that I could -not find one of the moccasins, and that I thought the cat must have run -off with it. He said he would _cat_ me, and that if I did not find the -other before night I should suffer for it. With a sorrowful heart I -recommenced my search, and all my brothers helped me. Meantime my father -had sat himself by the fire, and complained that something in his boot -had plagued him the whole day; so, pulling it off, and feeling inside, -what should he find but my much-bemoaned moccasin. It is easier to -imagine my delight than to express it.” - -Conwell rolled himself in his blanket and fell asleep, still smiling at -the recollection. I could not sleep; his story had recalled events of my -own childhood, and I kept gazing at the strange and changing figures in -the fire. Bearsgrease was lying close to me, with his head on my -shoulder; he had raised it several times, and snuffed the air, and again -lain down. At length he roused up and gave a slight growl. I thought I -heard something, and looking up to the bank behind me, I was astonished -to find two glowing eyeballs steadily fixed upon me. My head being -between the fire and the animal, I could see them plainly just above the -bank. It must be a panther, and, judging from the position, ready to -spring. My rifle, as usual, lay ready; so, half raising myself, that I -might have the fire in a line with the two sights, I aimed between the -two fiery balls, and the rocks reëchoed the report. - -Old Conwell was up like lightning with his rifle ready, and the dogs -hunted about while I reloaded, but all was as silent as the grave. The -old fellow shook his head, and asked what on earth I had been firing at. -I finished loading without a word, then taking a brand from the fire and -going about twenty paces to a slope in the bank, I mounted, and found an -immense panther, quite dead. I threw him over, and C. dragged him to the -fire; the ball had pierced his brain through the right eye. He was a -very powerful beast, had enormous fangs, and when we cut him open, his -stomach was found quite empty. He must have been attracted to the fire -by hunger, and C. thought he might have smelt the venison; he would -probably have ventured a spring as soon as the fire had burnt low; the -dogs could not scent him, as he was so much above us. After skinning him -we threw the carcass into the river below the camp, as the dogs would -not touch it. We slept the rest of the night undisturbed. - -A light rain fell next morning, which, in about an hour, moistened the -dead leaves sufficiently for us to walk without making a noise; so I -made haste to stretch the panther’s skin, and we set off, each as -before taking a separate path. Before I had gone half a mile I saw two -deer grazing; just at this moment Conwell’s gun was heard at some -distance, and they both raised their heads and listened attentively, but -perceiving nothing suspicious, they began to feed again. They were a doe -and a year-old fawn, and when they were in a line I fired; the doe, -which was nearest, fell at once, and the fawn after running about fifty -yards. They were very fat, and I hung them up. - -In hanging up deer it is necessary to take precautions against the -vultures, which are a great annoyance to sportsmen. The best way of -securing the deer, whose skin they would ruin with their beaks, is to -hang them up by their heads, so that the vultures may have no point of -support, and must content themselves with pecking at the skull. There is -also a large crow, which tries to steal the fat; but they may be kept -off by placing two peeled sticks crosswise on the deer--for the crows -will not venture their heads between two such suspicious-looking -objects. - -Continuing my march, I came to the bank of a stream running into the -Richland, when I saw a wolf spring out of a thicket on the opposite -side, about eighty paces off; he ran about fifty yards and then stopped, -but not long enough for me to take aim; finally he disappeared among -some rocks. I crossed over to the thicket to see how Bearsgrease would -take the scent of a wolf; all his hairs bristled up the moment he came -to the yet warm lair. - -Late in the afternoon, on my way to the camp, I struck a fresh bear’s -trail, and followed it up, though it led me out of my way. Meantime it -began to rain harder, and coming to a broad stream, which the bear had -crossed, my dog lost the trail. As it was too late to return to the -camp, I considered myself lucky in finding a cave, two feet deep in -leaves driven in by the wind. Without making a fire, which would have -been dangerous, I crept in, taking Bearsgrease for a pillow, who was -much pleased thereby, and, spite of wet clothes, I slept well till -morning, covered up with the leaves. - -The morning was cold and wet, my clothes were still damp from -yesterday’s rain, and I was as hungry as a lion; so altogether I did not -feel quite so comfortable as I could wish. But walking quick to warm -myself, in about an hour’s time I reached the place where I had left the -two deer, hung the fawn over my shoulders, and not long after gained the -camp. - -The fire was burning bright which C. had only lately left, and it was no -small quantity of venison that I put down to roast. Having appeased my -appetite, and fed Bearsgrease, I laid down again to rest. After an -hour’s time, as C. did not return, I set off again; it was still very -cold. As I was passing a small ravine I saw a young buck feeding, -without the slightest suspicion of danger. As I was within distance, I -aimed and fired; he fell as if shot through the brain, but my ball had -struck too high, so that at the moment when I came up to seize him he -recovered himself, and rose on his forelegs. I saw on the instant that -there was no time to lose, and threw myself upon him. The dog had also -seized him, and I was in the act of drawing my knife to plunge in his -throat, when he made a sudden effort, and we all three tumbled down a -declivity of nine or ten feet. In falling I had dropped my knife, which -fell among the stones, and I felt much pain in my head and left side; -but neither I nor Bearsgrease had let go our hold. The poor animal made -most desperate efforts to escape, and with our greatest exertions it was -hardly possible for us to hold him. Without a knife there was but one -method of securing him; a cruel one, indeed, but if I had to bite his -neck through with my teeth I would not let him go. I threw him over on -his side, and smashed his forelegs with a sharp stone. Thus crippled, -Bearsgrease could hold him; I jumped up, found my knife, and ended the -poor creature’s torments. - -I succeeded in slinging it with a great deal of trouble, my left side -paining me exceedingly; however I managed to climb up the steep, -recovered and loaded my rifle, and hobbled towards the camp, intending -to remain quiet the rest of the day. - -I found my old friend awaiting me. He had killed four bucks, and brought -away their haunches, the rest not being good eating at this season. We -settled to shoot towards the house next day, and then to take horses to -carry home the game we had shot. - -On our way homewards we only killed three turkeys. We caught the horses -the same evening, and once more reposed our weary limbs among my old -friend’s family circle. - -At midnight it began to rain, and towards morning it poured in torrents. -The game was not to be thought of, and we sat round the fire amusing -ourselves with - -[Illustration: THE CAPTURED BUFFALO.] - -old stories and anecdotes. As we were talking of the prairies, Conwell -told us one of his adventures after buffaloes. - -“Not many years ago, when I lived in the Kickapoo prairie, in Missouri, -four of us set out one morning to shoot buffaloes. It was bitter cold, -and we rode rapidly over the frozen ground. On gaining an elevation, we -descried a herd in the distance, and made towards them. When about half -a mile from them they discovered us, and ran off, we after them -helter-skelter. The hindmost was a cow, too fat to keep up with the -others, so we all singled her out for our mark. After galloping for -about a mile, she received all our balls, and fell, when we secured her. -The wind was now blowing from the north-west, almost cold enough to -freeze the marrow in our bones, and the dry buffalo dung, the only fuel -in the prairies, made but a poor fire. The nearest wood was about a mile -from the place where the cow fell, and a debate arose whether we should -fetch the wood to the buffalo, or carry the buffalo to the wood. We -thought the latter easier. One of the party, named Turner, began to -strip off the skin; we offered to help him, but he would not permit it; -so, willingly leaving the cold work to him, we made as good a fire as we -could for him to warm his hands by. When the skin was off, we cut off -the prime pieces, took the marrow-bones, packed them in the skin, threw -them over a horse, and brought them to the nearest wood, where we -luckily found water. Our four tomahawks soon cut wood enough, and we -made a roaring fire; when it was burnt to charcoal we stuck in the -marrow-bones, first one end, then the other; and certainly there is no -more delicate eating for the backwoodsman than buffalo marrow, except -bear’s ribs, and wild honey. The meat was rather tough, and nothing -particular. - -“It was now getting dark, and we began to prepare our camp. One of the -party proposed, instead of each rolling himself separately in his -blanket, that we should spread the skin, which was large enough to hold -us all, and then lay all the blankets over us. But Turner objected, and -maintained that as he had skinned the cow alone, he alone would sleep in -it. It was all the same to us; we all had good blankets, and could make -ourselves comfortable by the fire, which we closely surrounded, while -Turner wrapped himself in his heavy skin, with the hairy side -inwards;--and we were all soon asleep. - -“The weather was extremely cold, and we were obliged to get up several -times in the course of the night, to lay on fresh wood, though Turner -never moved out of his warm skin. Towards morning the wind changed to -north-east, and the sky threatening a snow-storm, we decided on -returning home as soon as possible, to avoid the approaching storm, or -at any rate to get better shelter than the open prairie afforded. So we -swallowed our breakfasts quickly, and saddled the horses, which had been -feeding on the dry grass, and now approached as close as they could to -the fire. We called Turner several times to make him get up, but a -slight motion of the hide was the only answer. At length, a half -smothered cry for help issued from the skin. We rushed to Turner in -alarm, fearing something serious, but burst into a roar of laughter, on -finding that he was frozen in, and could not move a limb. We rolled him -to the fire, to thaw the skin, and set him free; the rolling and the -heat made him feel rather giddy, but a hot marrow-bone restored -him;--and then loading the horses with the softened skin, and the -remainder of the meat, we reached home before the storm, which came on -that evening with tremendous force.” - -The weather continued gloomy enough, the clouds hanging about the trees, -as if they were seeking shelter from the wind, which was driving them -from the rocky mountains. All the cattle collected near the house, with -their tails to the wind, and pendant ears, looking very wretched. -Luckily I found a few books,--such as “A Dialogue of Devils,” “The Life -of Marion,” “The Life of Washington,” “The Pilgrim’s Progress,” “The -United States’ Reader,” &c., and killed some of the time by turning over -their leaves. - -The rain lasted till the 12th January. The various streams had become -cataracts and rivers, so we were obliged to remain at home two days -longer. Meantime our store of meat had fallen very low, and there -appeared little hope of being able to use that which we had left hanging -in the forest. However we hastened away to save the skins, if there was -yet time. The streams were still so swelled that we could only pass them -on horseback. We reached our last camp about noon, and found, as we had -expected, that the meat was tainted, and the greater part of it -devoured by vultures. We stretched the skins, in the hope that the wind, -with the help of a faint sun, which was peering bashfully through the -clouds, might dry them. - -As it grew late, and we had no other provisions than bread and salt, we -set off with the dogs to look for turkeys, and came upon a gang just as -they were making themselves comfortable for the night. We killed two, -and might have shot more, but did not wish to increase the quantity of -decaying meat in the neighborhood. On this account we removed our camp -about half a mile off, stretched our blankets to keep off a light -drizzling rain, hobbled the horses, and fed them with maize. The wolves -made a dreadful noise all night at our old quarters. In the morning the -rain held up, and the clouds separated a little; so I set off to try and -steal a march on them, and spoil their howling. The leaves were wet, and -going round to gain the wind, I crept for about two hundred yards on my -knees up to a large tree, and counted eight of them. Although they were -to windward of me, one of them raised his head and began snuffing the -air, then turned sharp round, and they all made off with their peculiar -long gallop for the bush. Now was my time or never; I aimed at one of -the largest, which covered another with its body. When the smoke cleared -away, not a wolf was to be seen; they had vanished like magic--but -following up the trail, I found one dead, and signs of another being -wounded; but I found nothing more of the latter,--he was probably torn -to pieces by his comrades. I scalped my prize, and returned to the camp; -the scalp is valued, as before stated, at three dollars. - -Meantime Conwell had employed himself in roasting turkeys, and we made -an excellent breakfast. We then started off again. When I came to the -place where I had hung up the buck, whose capture nearly cost me my -neck, I found that the wolves had succeeded in dragging it down, and -eaten nearly all but the bones. I knocked over another, and also killed -a wild cat; returning to camp in the afternoon, where Conwell had -arrived before me. He had killed a couple of deer, and we decided on -bringing them to the camp, as there were so many wolves about. - -Finding no traces of bears, we determined to leave the Richland and try -the Mulberry again; so next morning we loaded our horses, and set off on -our return. As we were descending a hill, Conwell stopped suddenly at -the foot of a large oak, and after examining the bark attentively, he -said that a bear was either in the tree, or had very lately left it. The -weather had improved, and it was again rather cold. We had nothing -better than our tomahawks for cutting down the tree, and they were not -very sharp; a few strokes proved the fact. Luckily for us it was hollow, -and we set-to with a will. - -After hacking at it for three hours, the tree began to crack. We seized -our rifles, called the dogs, and hastened towards the direction in which -the tree must fall, to be ready to receive him. A couple of small -splinters broke first; then a larger one; then the top began to bend -slowly down the hill; then with a loud crash, and smashing its branches -in the fall, the tree measured its length on the ground. No bear -appeared; the nest was empty, though there could be no doubt it had -lately been tenanted, for the sides were beautifully smooth and clean. -There was a bough about five feet below the hole, where the bear went in -and out, on which an Indian must formerly have stood, and tried to make -an opening with his tomahawk, but without success; probably the bear, -disturbed by the blows, had made his way out in time. Judging by the -bark, this must have occurred about four or five years ago. - -While we were looking at it, Conwell asked what the dogs were about; -they appeared to be very eagerly licking up something from the ground, -and we found that, accidentally, we had cut down a tree with honey in -it. The bees were all torpid with the cold, and the dogs were enjoying -the honey, which the breaking boughs had brought to light. Our plans -were soon arranged; Conwell went to look for a deer; I took my tomahawk -to cut a trough, and was soon busy about the upper part of the trunk, -which was sound enough. As it was freezing, and the honey would not run, -there was no occasion to make the trough very deep; so it was soon -finished, and I loaded it with great lumps of the frozen delicacy. This -done, I collected wood and made a fire, expecting we should pass the -night here; but just then I heard the report of Conwell’s gun quite -near, followed by his hail: I answered, and was soon by his side. He had -killed a large fat doe, which we hung up by the hind legs, made a cut -above the haunch, and drew off the skin without another touch of the -knife, except at the knees, hocks, and head; stopping the holes, we -turned it with the hair outwards, and so made a bag to carry the honey. -When it was all in, I mounted, Conwell handed it to me, and away we went -homewards, leaving the greater part of the last deer behind. - -[Illustration] - - - - -CHAPTER X. - -A PERILOUS BEAR-HUNT--A DEBATING SOCIETY--PANTHER HUNT--DISASTROUS -EVENTS--DEATH OF ERSKINE--DEPARTURE. - - The winter sleep of bears--The she-bear and cubs in the cave--Our - perilous hunt--Erskine--Debating society in the woods--Questions - discussed--My proposition--Adventure with a panther--Our - wounds--Bad sport--Hunting with the Indians--The skeletons in the - cave--Erskine’s fatal encounter with the bear--My wounded - shoulder--Indian surgery--I decline settling in the - woods--sorrowful leave-taking. - - -We had no trifle to carry, and were very glad to reach home; but our -feet were hardly out of the stirrups when we heard that some Indians had -looked in. They had discovered a cave which certainly contained a bear, -but the Cherokees, who had first found it, had not ventured to penetrate -far, as it was deep and narrow. This was grist to our mill. The skins -and meat were stowed away, the rifles discharged and cleaned, horses -fed, and all prepared for a regular hunt. We passed the evening in -telling stories about bears; among others Conwell related the following -anecdote respecting their winter sleep: “In this southern climate, the -bear generally lays up about Christmas, or the beginning of the year, -and remains till the end of February; if the weather is then mild he -comes out occasionally, and sometimes he does not return to his -winter-quarters, but prepares a new lair by biting down branches, and -making a bed for himself in the most secluded and thickest jungle, as -far removed as possible from the haunts of man. If they go into a cave, -they do not take any provisions with them, but keep sucking their paws, -whining all the time; when they become torpid, they lie with their head -doubled under them, and their fore-paws above it. I myself have crawled -into a cave, and poked bears with the end of my rifle, to make them -raise their heads, so that I might conveniently fire into their brains; -and the bears were always cowardly in a cave, except they had young, -when they fight furiously--but even then, only when they have no other -choice. When the weather is warm and they come out to drink, it is -extraordinary how exactly they always step in the same place; but as the -marks are thereby made so much deeper, these ‘stepping paths,’ as they -are called, are easily discovered.” - -The night was bitter cold; the day broke as fine as a sportsman could -wish. One of Conwell’s married sons, who lived in the neighborhood, -joined our party, and another young man named Smith, and as we rode by -the school, the master dismissed all the boys and girls, as the -temptation to accompany us was too strong to be resisted. We took plenty -of fir splinters for torches, and our guide was young Smith, who was one -of the party who had tracked the bear, but not ventured very far into -the cave. - -We reached the entrance about two o’clock in the afternoon, and prepared -a good dinner to strengthen us for the exertions in prospect. While the -meat was roasting, I took a survey of the outside, which presented a -wall of limestone rock, about thirty feet high, and about 300 feet long, -with four openings. After having well fortified the inner man, we -prepared to enter the cave. We took only one rifle with us, but each had -his large hunting-knife, and I buckled my powder-horn close to my side; -then with my rifle in my right hand, and a torch of at least twenty -inches in my left, we entered a dark passage about four feet high and -two feet wide; young Conwell came next to me with another torch, -followed by his father with a bundle of splinters to replace the torches -as they burnt out. For about eighty yards it was all hard rock, and we -advanced easily enough. But now came a sudden turn to the right, and the -cave was so low that we were obliged to crawl on our hands and knees; -the bottom was stiff clay, with numerous marks of bears, some quite -fresh. As we advanced the passage became still smaller, and we were -obliged to crawl on our stomachs. Thus far the Indians had penetrated, -as we found by splinters of fir, and marks of their elbows and knees in -the clay. The passage was now so small that I was obliged to lie quite -flat, and push myself along by my feet assisted by my left elbow, -holding the torch in my left hand, and the rifle in front with the -right. The aperture was quite round, and rubbed smooth by the passing in -and out of wild animals, who may perhaps have made this their -winter-quarters for hundreds of years. Here and there we found -stalactites, which were a great hinderance, and we often had -considerable difficulty in pushing ourselves through. - -Apparently, we were the first whites, indeed the first men, who had -ever ventured into the place, for the ground retained every impression -that had been made in it. In some places the marks of the bears were -petrified, having perhaps been left centuries ago. Once the thought -occurred to me: should we ever get out again, or perish here from -hunger? I went on however, all my senses on the stretch, to discover the -sleeping bear. - -We disturbed immense numbers of bats with our torches, and found also -several crickets and a few bluebottle flies. When my torch was nearly -burnt out, I stopped for a supply from young Conwell; the moment I -remained quite still, I thought I heard a low whining not far off; and -listening attentively, I distinctly heard the sound bear cubs make in -sucking, and a low deep growling; so there was no longer any doubt but -that we were near a she-bear with cubs. - -The place where I had stopped was rather more roomy, so that I could sit -up, and I turned to the two Conwells and asked if they heard the sound, -which they answered with a whispered “Yes;”--and we held a short council -as to further proceedings. In the first place, the cave was smaller -further on--secondly we had only expected a sleeping bear, instead of a -she-bear awake and with cubs, for which it was rather early in the -season; though C. told me afterwards, that in Arkansas he had -occasionally met with bear cubs as early as January. Whoever has seen a -she-bear defend her young, with ears laid back and open jaws, may form -some idea of our feelings. We were all bear-killers, and knew well -enough the danger we were encountering in a space almost too narrow to -admit of any movement. But at all events there we were, and there was -the bear--and no one even hinted at a retreat. - -I examined my rifle closely to see that all was right, and as we slowly -worked our way forwards, the elder Conwell warned me to make sure of my -shot, adding drily, by way of comfort, that it would be all the better -for me; for if I missed I should be the first to suffer from the -animal’s fury. - -We came nearer and nearer to the growling bear, who certainly must long -since have heard us, and was now listening with all her might. At length -the mingled whining and growling appeared to be quite close, and holding -the torch behind my head, I plainly saw fiery eyeballs. I now halted, -cleared the sight of the rifle, which had got clogged with the clay, -refreshed my torch, and crept as silently as possible towards the dark -mass. - -The decisive moment was come; and as I could now distinguish the -animal’s head, through the surrounding darkness, I put myself in an -attitude to take aim. The bear had risen on her hind-legs, and sat with -their usual swinging motion; as I was trying to fix one of her eyes with -the rifle, she suddenly disappeared through the almost palpable -darkness. - -Following her up, we came upon three cubs, nice little things, which -roared lustily when for the first time they saw a light. These sounds -were by no means agreeable to us, for we had reason to fear that the -cries of the cubs might still more enrage the dam. We wished to save -them alive, and asked old Conwell to stay with them and quiet them and -to make a fire, while we went after the old one. Conwell sat down, and -soon quieted them by giving them a finger to suck. - -About ten feet from the lair the cave divided into two passages of equal -size. The fresh marks showed that the bear had taken the one to the -right. Presently the cubs began to cry again with renewed force, which -rather alarmed us, for we should have been in an awkward predicament if -the bear had endeavored to hasten to their help, and found the way -blocked up by our bodies; for, with the best will in the world, she -could neither pass over us nor by our sides, and there was no other way -left than to kill us, and eat her way through. While we were consulting -together about this matter, in a low voice, the cry suddenly ceased, and -we pushed on silently in better spirits; for, from all that we had seen, -this bear was rather more cowardly than usual. - -We went on and on, to the great annoyance of our ribs and elbows, and -there seemed to be no end to the cave. There was a peculiarity about it, -which I never found in any other, namely, several flat stones about one -and two inches thick, which rang like steel when slightly struck with -the finger. One place was very remarkable. It was about fifty or sixty -feet long, with similar flat stones on each side, approaching to within -six inches of each other in the middle, so that one could have passed -through in a sitting posture, with the neck in the narrow part, and the -head in the upper compartment; but to say the least, this would have -been a rather inconvenient position for receiving the attack of an -enraged bear. - -After clearing this double passage, we arrived at a spring, which had -worn itself a channel of about eighteen inches deep, and eight or nine -wide. After working our way through another difficult pass, as I was in -the act of drawing a long breath, I heard a deep growl very near me. -Although I had been listening for this sound every foot of the way for -several hours, yet, on hearing it so suddenly and so close, I was rather -startled, and nearly let fall the torch; but quickly recovering, and -raising the torch as high as possible, to the discomfort and horror of -several innocent bats, I could make out Mrs. Bruin, about ten yards off, -sitting upright, gnashing her teeth, digging into the ground with her -sharp claws, and apparently in the worst possible humor. - -Young Conwell, who was close behind me, laid his hand lightly on my -foot, and whispered that he heard the bear. As I had obtained this -intelligence for myself, I whispered to him to be quiet, and creeping -forward a couple of paces, I came to a place from whence I thought I -could fire with effect. I placed my right foot in the channel of the -stream, raised myself as well as I could on my left knee, and brought up -the rifle. Young Conwell, who was anxiously watching all my motions, -whispered me for God’s sake to aim carefully, for if I made a bad shot -we were both done for. Although I was nearer the danger than he was, I -would not have changed places with him, as he could not see what was -going on, and must naturally fear the worst; and in such cases, it is -preferable to be in the post of danger, than to remain in a state of -suspense. - -The bear, by no means pleased with our intrusion, laid back her ears, -snapped her teeth, and kept constantly swinging to and fro; as she did -not sit quite upright I had no other choice than to aim at the head, in -the hope that if I missed my aim, the ball might pierce the breast. As I -was taking aim, the thought crossed my brain for a moment (why should I -deny it?) how helpless I was if the shot failed; but it lasted only a -moment, and, in the excitement of the present, I forgot both past and -future. - -I took a long aim, and yet, as the bear was not still for one second I -pulled the trigger too soon. The cave was filled with thick smoke; a -fearful groan announced that the beast was wounded; we did not wait to -examine the state of affairs, but crept back as fast as the narrow space -would allow, to a spot where there was more room to move, in order to -reload, and return to the attack. - -We had retreated, backwards, for about a hundred yards, and had halted -in a more convenient part of the cave, when we heard the bear coming -towards us, snorting and snapping her teeth, till the cave echoed with -the sound. My first thought was “Good-by to the light of the sun.” But I -had not much time for consideration, and called to young Conwell to make -haste if he valued our lives, for the old one was coming. He did not -require much pressing, and I never saw crabs crawl backwards quicker -than we tried to do; yet, however great our hurry, and imminent our -danger, it was very slow work, and the snorting came nearer and nearer. - -I had dropped my rifle, as it very much hindered my retreat, and keeping -a sharp look-out in front, where I constantly expected to see the bear, -I suddenly discovered the glowing eyes only a few paces off. Just at -this moment, my left elbow struck against a projecting bit of rock; the -torch fell out of my hand, and all was dark as pitch; for although young -Conwell had a second torch, my body filled up the space so completely -that not a ray of light could pass. I took up the glimmering splinter, -and threw it at the bear, which checked her, but only for a moment. -Suddenly young Conwell stopped, and said he could not find the passage; -and making a slip with his right hand, which held the torch, he dropped -it in the water. I could not answer for the bear, who had followed us -slowly, as if she knew that we were doing our best to get out of her -way; she must have been so near, that I felt sure that if I stretched -out my arm to its full extent I should touch her; for I could feel her -hot breath on my face. With my left arm a little in advance, the right -with the hunting-knife drawn back, I awaited, with every stroke of the -pulse, the beast’s attack, thinking of nothing else than selling my life -as dearly as possible; for I had no hopes of getting out alive. - -Meantime, young Conwell had not been idle. Aware that we could do -nothing without a light, he had felt for his tinder-box, and the noise -of his flint and steel was the only sound that broke a silence like that -of the grave; for at the first blow the bear had ceased growling to -listen to the strange sounds. - -After a painful and anxious pause, he called out, “I have got a light, -give me the powder-horn and a rag.” I cut away the first from its sling, -then tore off a piece of my hunting-shirt, and passed them behind me. In -a few minutes he recovered his splinter; this gave us, or rather me, -new hopes; for he had no fear--firstly, because he could not know how -near the bear was; and, secondly, because, as he assured me afterwards, -he was so intent on striking a light, that he could think of nothing -else. He had also succeeded in turning himself round, and his voice -sounded to me like an angel’s song when he called out that he had found -the passage. He had now the advantage of creeping forwards, while I was -still obliged to show front to the bear; but he gave me a few more -splinters of fir, and a light, and we again began our slow retreat -towards the entrance. - -As I held the torch forwards, the bear gave a deep growl, gnashed her -teeth, and retreated a pace or two, but followed again as soon as she -saw that I was retiring. Necessity sharpens invention; I laid a couple -of burning sticks crosswise on the ground, and saw, to my inexpressible -delight, that she did not venture to pass them. Shuffling back as fast -as I could, I heard Jim (young C.) call out to his father to go back, as -the bear was coming. No other words were spoken, and indeed the growling -came nearer; the fire had probably gone out on the moist ground, and -then she followed us again. - -I now crawled over the place where we had first discovered her, and -found out the reason why the cubs had so suddenly ceased their cry. When -we stopped, uncertain what to do, old C. had dashed their heads against -the rock, and thus most likely saved our lives; for a cry from the cubs -when our torches had gone out, would have enraged the wounded animal so -much, that she would certainly have attacked us, and we should have -been either killed, or so dreadfully crippled that we must have perished -miserably in the cave. - -At about a hundred paces from the lair, I stopped to listen again, but -could hear nothing. I now called to the others to wait for me, and when -we came to a more roomy place, which had also been the retreat of a -bear, we held a consultation. Old C. thought that the bear had lain down -by her dead cubs, and that one of us had better return to the mouth of -the cave and fetch another rifle, as it was out of the question trying -to pass the furious animal to get at mine. However, before attempting -the long and difficult way back to the entrance, I resolved to creep -again to the lair and see if she was not dead, for I could not but think -that my ball must have had some effect. When I got there I could see -nothing of her. My shout brought the others to the spot; so, advancing a -little, and examining closely, we saw thick dark blood, and found that, -instead of returning to her lair, she had taken the left-hand passage. I -instantly proceeded to regain my rifle, which I found, covered with -blood and slime, about three hundred yards off. I returned as fast as I -possibly could, cleaned it, and reloaded, when we all started again for -a fresh attack. - -The left-hand passage was as bad as the right; but luckily the bear had -not gone far. We soon reached the place, where, grinding her teeth, she -awaited our approach. I halted about eight or nine feet from her, raised -myself as high as the space would allow, laid the rifle over my left -arm, in which I held the torch, and, seizing the time when her head was -quiet for an instant, I fired. Again the cave echoed the crack of the -rifle, and all was enveloped in thick smoke. I heard the bear groan and -move, but stood my ground, as this time I knew that my ball had struck -the right place: as the smoke cleared away, she lay dead before me. - -Young Conwell and I were half dead from our exertions, and it would have -been impossible for us to get the bear out:--for the time we had been -crawling in the close air of the cave and smoke of the torches, and the -long-continued excitement of constant danger, were almost too much for -the constitution of any man; so we decided on returning to the fresh air -as fast as we could. It took us about half an hour to do so, and I shall -never forget the effect of the delightfully cool night air, as I drew it -in in long inspirations, and gazed on the bright-blue starry skies. - -Young Smith and the schoolmaster were fast asleep, but as the dogs -barked they both jumped up, and almost fell down again from fright, for -they swore that they had never seen such horrible figures as we looked -in the red light of the torches, covered with blood and slime, and -blackened with smoke. Judging by the stars, it must have been about two -o’clock in the morning. Although as hungry as lions, we were too -exhausted to touch any thing; so we lay down and slept till daybreak. We -made a good breakfast, and then, leaving old Conwell behind, who had -done rather too much for his time of life, we four again entered the -cave to bring out our prizes. We fastened a cord round the old bear’s -neck; I squeezed past, and shoved from behind, while Smith and the -schoolmaster pulled, and young Jim Conwell held the light. We gained -ground inch by inch, and about noon, amid a general hurrah, we cast down -the carcase by the camp fire, where it was instantly taken possession of -by Bearsgrease, who laid himself growling by its side. - -As we had some way to go home, we only opened and cleaned her, and broke -the spine, so that the carcase might lay better across a horse. We -reached home by the evening; I took a plunge in the river, and then -settled down to sleep. - -We rose refreshed the next morning ready for further efforts, and -concluded to try some caves that old Conwell knew of. We provided -ourselves with cords and food, and made two large wax candles, which are -less disagreeable in a close cave than pine torches, give a better -light, and are not so liable to go out. We arrived at the place in the -afternoon, and found eight or nine caves, from forty to eighty feet -deep, but all empty. We now separated to try different paths, and agreed -that as soon as any one found a trail, he was to make a signal so that -all might join in the chase. - -I found a small cave with fresh marks, but no bear. On returning to the -mouth, I heard the dogs, and listening attentively for a minute or two, -I felt sure they were coming towards me. Presently the noise of rushing -through breaking branches was very distinct, and at last a bear broke -cover. Throwing himself without hesitation down a precipice of about ten -feet, he came towards me as fast as his legs would carry him. I stood -still to see how near he would come. At about fifty paces distance he -winded me, stopped short in his career, - -[Illustration: CLOSE QUARTERS WITH BRUIN.] - -snuffed the air for an instant, and then made off in a different -direction. I seized the opportunity offered, and sent him a ball; but I -was not quite cool enough, and only wounded him in the hip. Meantime, -the dogs having been stopped by the bluff which Bruin had so -unceremoniously disposed of, he gained a good space in advance; but the -wound checked his speed, and I could soon distinguish by the dogs’ bark -that they had come up with him again, but were keeping out of reach of -his paws. A young man named Erskine, who was shooting near us, attracted -by the report of my gun and the barking of the dogs, came up and gave -the mortal wound. The two Conwells joined soon after, and we broke him -up together. - -Erskine told us that he had found a cave, which he was sure contained a -bear, and asked one of us to go with him and try it, as he had neither -torches nor wax candles. I was ready at once, took one of the candles, -and explaining to the others where they might find us, we set off, and -reached the place about sunset. We first made a large fire before the -entrance of the cave, and then crept into it, E. preceding. Further on, -the passage grew larger, so that we could walk upright, side by side. -After going some distance, we heard the regular low whine of the bear, -who was sucking his paws, and Erskine, also a regular bear-hunter, -asserted that he was fast asleep. Passing a sharp turn in the cave, we -discovered him at our feet, and, as my comrade had stated, fast asleep, -his head between his paws, uttering a low monotonous whine. Erskine set -the muzzle of the rifle to the back of his head, and fired; he gave a -convulsive start, and lay dead. I probed the wound with my fore finger -to see how far the ball had penetrated; the rifle threw a ball of -twenty-two to the pound; the skull was completely shattered. - -We now decided on getting out of the cave for a little repose and -refreshment, and to await the Conwells. We found them sitting by the -fire, and young C. offered at once to take the cord and fasten it round -the bear’s neck, and try and pull him out alone. Lighting one of the -candles, he soon disappeared in the cave. They had examined several -other caves, but had not found any more signs. Extraordinary to relate, -we had not seen a single deer during the course of our hunt; the forest -seemed deserted, excepting by a bear or two in the caves, and a very few -turkeys. - -We had rested and talked for about half an hour, when young C. -reappeared without the bear, having found it too heavy, and requiring -help. We went, one and all, taking fresh torches with us, to the scene -of action, and dragged him out, though with considerable difficulty, as -many parts of the route were ill adapted for the transport of such a -mass of flesh. Lying down by the fire, we slept comfortably till late -next morning. It was near noon ere we could tear ourselves away from our -couches of soft leaves, but as we all agreed that we must move sooner or -later, we got up, loaded the horses with our prizes, and moved off -towards Conwell’s dwelling in as direct a line as the nature of the -country would allow. We kept no look-out for game on our way home, -having meat enough, and being almost tired to death. - -We received a hearty welcome from Conwell’s family, and we resolved to -enjoy a little repose after all our hard work. In spite of the bears -and bats that I encountered in my dreams, I awoke quite refreshed, and -did full justice to the beautiful breakfast of bear-collops, milk, and -maize bread. Perhaps the wild outdoor life which we had been leading may -have lent more charms to the quiet life of this happy home, than under -other circumstances I should have been sensible of; but, be that as it -may, I shall never forget this amiable family. Old C. and I sat the -whole day by the fireside, mending our leggings and moccasins. He was -certainly the last man in the world to neglect spinning a yarn when he -had a good opportunity, and he told me so many anecdotes, and related so -many adventures, that the day passed away only too soon. - -About an hour before sunset, a neighbor came in to inquire whether we -would go with him to the debates. “Debates!” I asked, quite astonished, -“what does that mean?” He seemed still more astonished at my ignorance, -and explained that, on every Friday, it was the custom to hold a meeting -at the school-house, about two miles off, to debate on any subject which -might be proposed, and in which the scholars took part. The account -excited my curiosity still more, and I decided on no account to miss -such an opportunity. Old C. had frequented these meetings too often to -be induced to leave his comfortable fireside; but I saddled a horse at -once, and was soon at the school. - -Imagine a large smoky building in the midst of a forest, with dark, -dusty windows; a broad, well-worn door-stone; a heavy iron-bound door; -and rules and regulations pasted up here and there in the room. A number -of horses, fastened to the surrounding trees, showed that several of -the debaters were already assembled. A bright fire burned in the -chimney, the room was nearly full, and almost everybody was talking. At -length order was established, and the company proceeded to the business -of the evening. Two judges and two leaders were selected. The judges -took their places in the centre, while the leaders stationed themselves -on opposite sides, each taking it in turns to choose a follower from the -persons present. The question to be decided was this: “In a thickly -inhabited district, where much cattle was reared, there was only one -parish bull. The district was on the bank of a broad river, and the -inhabitants were obliged to cross it very often, as all the mills and -tanneries were on the other side--but there was only one ferry-boat, -passed to and fro by a single rope. The bull got down to the ferry, and -on board the boat, and gnawed the rope in two; the boat floated down the -river with the bull, and boat and bull were never seen again.” These -were the facts, now comes the question, “Who is to pay the damage for -the loss? The owner of the boat for carrying off the bull, or the owner -of the bull, because, from some malicious though undiscovered intention, -he stole the boat?” - -It was highly amusing to see one after another stand up, and seriously -defend the cause of the bull, or the boat; others again talked all sorts -of nonsense for a quarter of an hour, and then sat down with the remark -that it was unnecessary to say more, as the case was so clear that the -judges could not do otherwise than give a decision in their favor. After -all had been heard, myself included, the judges consulted together, and -the owner of the bull was condemned to pay the expenses. The next -question was: “Which is better, a single or a married life?” The judges -were not quite impartially chosen. The wife of one had run off with a -young man to Texas, three years ago; the wife of the other had three -times borne twins. I was chosen on the married side with the -schoolmaster, three or four other young men, and six or seven of the -scholars. We defended our cause with glowing animation--but one judge -thought of Texas, and the other of the twins, and our scale kicked the -beam. Several other questions were discussed; among them, “Which is -worse, a smoky chimney or a scolding wife?” Left undecided. At last I -was invited to propose a subject, but I would not consent until I -received assurance that it should be discussed: “Which enjoys life most, -has fewer cares, and lighter sorrows--a short or a long-tailed dog?” But -by this time it was late, and time to adjourn; so the house was soon -left to its solitude in the forest, and the party dispersed in all -directions to their dwellings. - -On the morning of the 22nd January, Old Conwell and I shouldered our -rifles, and each provided with meat and bread, we wandered towards the -waters of the Richland. Lucky was it that we took provisions, for not a -shot did we fire. Next day was almost as bad, and if Conwell had not -knocked over a turkey, we should have been reduced to chew sassafras. At -length on the third day, he shot a deer and I a turkey, which put a -little life into the dogs. Disgusted with our bad luck, we decided on -returning home next day; besides, the weather was bad, and threatened -to be worse. To our inexpressible joy, snow fell during the night, and -all thoughts of return vanished. We took different directions, with the -agreement to return to camp in the evening. I had not gone far when I -saw footsteps of a young buck in the four-inch deep snow, followed him -up and shot him. I heard the report of Conwell’s rifle about the same -time. Hanging up the deer, I walked on. After lounging along slowly for -above an hour, without seeing any thing, I came across the track of -Conwell, who, with his dog, had been following up the bloody trail of a -panther; I gathered from the signs that he had broken his left hind leg. -I followed it up on the instant, as fast as my legs could carry me; in -rather more than an hour I arrived at the mouth of a cave, where Conwell -was awaiting me, knowing that I should cross his trail, and follow it up -as soon as I saw the marks of the panther. - -The wounded brute had taken refuge in the cave, leaving us to act as we -pleased, probably thinking himself quite safe. We held a short -consultation;--Conwell said, that he had hidden a bundle of kindlers in -a hole, and that if I would keep watch here, he would go and fetch them. -I consented, of course, and laid myself down before the cave, with bare -knife and cocked rifle. Lying in the snow, however, was any thing but -agreeable; at first, when I was warm with running, I thought nothing of -it, but by degrees I became colder and colder, till my teeth chattered. -I could not venture to lay aside the rifle to make a fire, for fear the -panther should escape. I managed to keep up a little warmth by running -and jumping, but was very glad when my old friend returned and made a -good fire. - -As soon as we were well warmed, we made torches, and entered the cave as -cautiously as possible, each with a burning torch in his left hand, and -a rifle in the right. I went first, but the cave was soon roomy enough -to admit of our walking upright beside each other. Some distance in, it -took a turn to the left, and about two hundred paces in advance we saw -the fiery eyeballs of the beast, who kept shutting them from time to -time. Conwell, taking my torch, stepped behind me, while I took aim and -fired. We heard a noise after the shot, but could not make out the -result; I reloaded as fast as possible, while Conwell went in advance, -but we could see nothing more of the animal’s eyes. We went on with -cocked rifles on our left arm. Moving silently and cautiously forward, -we suddenly discovered the panther in a little hollow close to our feet, -a beautiful but alarming sight, his ears laid back, his teeth gnashing -in wild rage, and his glowing eyes so wide open, that they seemed half -out of their sockets. Inspired by one impulse, we both fired so exactly -together, that neither knew that the other had done so. Our enemy was -hit, but whether mortally or not was more than we could tell. Dropping -our rifles like lightning, we drew our knives; a sore need we had of -them, for before the sound of the rifles expired, we felt the weight of -the panther upon us. I drove my knife into him, and sprang back; our -torches were extinguished; it all passed so quickly, that I did not -recover full possession of my senses, till I stood beside my old friend -in the fresh air at the mouth of the cave. I only remember that, in the -impenetrable darkness and thick smoke, I did not know which way to turn, -and that Conwell dragged me out. When we came into the light of day, we -found ourselves covered with sweat and blood, and our clothes all torn. - -Conwell complained of pain in the breast. Tearing open his shirt, we -found two deep gashes from the left shoulder to the pit of the stomach; -I had escaped with only a few scratches. We had neither of us felt when -we were wounded, but before we troubled ourselves about it, we made a -fire in the mouth of the cave to prevent the panther from coming out; -then washed and bound up our wounds, and sat by the fire to consider -what was next to be done. There was the panther in the cave, whether -alive or dead we knew not. At any rate, he was badly wounded, for both -our knives, with blades nine inches long, were bloody to the hilt. But -indeed we had no choice; our rifles, and Conwell’s ball-pouch, which the -brute had torn away, were still in the cave. - -It might perhaps have been possible to suffocate the panther with smoke, -but there might have been another opening, and then we should have had -our trouble for nothing. We soon made up our minds, and entered the cave -again with fresh torches and bare knives, but not without beating -hearts. We moved silently and cautiously on, holding the torches well -before us, so as not to be so agreeably surprised a second time. We -recovered our rifles without seeing the enemy. I held both the torches -while Conwell loaded his rifle, then gave them to him while I loaded -mine; and having our faithful weapons once more in our hands, we stepped -forward again still slowly and silently, but with lighter hearts. -“There!” suddenly called out C., holding his torch aloft, and staring -before him; it was the first word spoken since we re-entered the cave. -The panther lay stretched on the ground; no longer dangerous, for the -last convulsions were over. We skinned him and cut him up; all the balls -had taken effect, and both our knives had pierced his body, so that it -was only in his death-struggle that he sprang upon us. We took the skin, -although it almost looked like a sieve, and returned to our fire. - -It was night by the time we came out of the cave, and, with hungry -stomachs, lay all four by the fire; for neither we nor the dogs had any -fancy to eat the panther. Conwell suffered very much from his wound, but -towards morning he fell into a tolerably quiet sleep. We moved off with -the first gleam of day to the place where I had hung up the buck, -breakfasted there, and started for fresh game. - -Meantime it had become warmer. The snow had disappeared, but all the -game seemed to have gone on their travels; for although we saw signs -enough, not a shot could we get. In the night we were awakened by a thin -cold rain, and having no mind to get wet through, we jumped up, cut -poles with our heavy knives, and spreading my blanket, which was the -largest, over them, and laying ourselves on the other, underneath it, -after making up the fire afresh, that the rain might not put it out, we -were soon fast asleep. - -Next morning brought fresh troubles, but no reward. Dispirited, we -wandered the whole day through the wet forest, without seeing a turkey. -The meat we had brought with us was getting low, as we had not been very -saving of it, and had given the larger share to the dogs; after -breakfast there was one small piece left for each to share with his dog -at night; still hoping, we walked on cautiously and attentively till -late at night, without seeing even so much as a vulture. - -On the morning of the 29th of January, we sat by the fire with empty -stomachs, and stared sorrowfully at the crackling flames. At length -Conwell burst out with a loud laugh, and asked whether we were forced to -remain in this deserted spot, and why we should not go home. But I would -not give it up yet; to go home with nothing but a panther’s skin full of -holes was too bad, and I begged for one more day; at any rate, if we -found nothing before twelve o’clock, we could then meet at the camp and -return home. In silence, and on the watch for the merest trifles, I -wandered with Bearsgrease through all the places where hitherto I had -almost always found game, without meeting a sign; and my hunger was -quite painful. How I thought of shooting parties at home, where one was -sure of finding some sort of a house every half hour; here, was only -thick forest, where one wet dripping tree looked exactly like another. -And yet it was not without its charms. For instance, every now and then -you were entangled by the thorns of the black locust, or if your -slippery moccasins caused you to fall, you might be sure of finding some -of them conveniently placed to receive you. - -I returned to the camp about noon, exhausted and dispirited, and found -my old comrade stretched quietly by the fire. He said he had been -waiting for me about a couple of hours; that it was very clear there was -no game to shoot; and I was now of the same opinion. Heartily sick of -the useless fatigue, we shouldered the skin and our blankets, and left -the place with heavy hearts and weary limbs. - -It was long after dark when we arrived at Conwell’s home, and received -the usual kind welcome, and we were heartily laughed at, when, instead -of bringing provisions, we fell, like famished wolves, upon every thing -eatable that came in our way. A long draught of fresh milk did me, above -every thing else, an immensity of good. - -I would willingly have enjoyed a day’s rest; but Conwell--who, in spite -of his deep gashes, which were not yet healed, was as fresh and strong -as ever after his first meal, and could not remain quiet under the -circumstances--impressed on me the necessity of trying again, otherwise -people would believe that we had lost the power of shooting a deer. So -we were off again before noon, gained the source of the Hurricane, rode -across the “Devil’s Stepping Path,” a narrow rock with a precipice on -each side, left the Pilot-rock on our left, and came towards evening -into the pine forests, where we were sure of finding kindlers. -Descending the steep side of a mountain, we observed a column of thin -blue smoke by the side of a stream, showing that some hunters were -encamped there. We went straight towards it, and found it to be an -Indian camp, and our former acquaintance, young Erskine, among them. -They were Cherokees with three young Choctaws, these two tribes being on -good terms. Like ourselves, they were out bear-hunting, but had had -better luck. A quantity of bear meat was hanging about the camp, and -even the dogs could eat no more. Casting ourselves down by the fire, one -of the squaws--for there were several women in the camp--immediately -cooked some bear for us, with which we duly regaled ourselves. - -Night came on, and soon all were sunk in deep repose. I was not inclined -to sleep, and Bearsgrease, who had tired himself with chasing a gang of -turkeys, which escaped at last by flying across a ravine, lay close to -me, with his head on my left arm. Soon he began to dream, scrambling -with his feet as if running, and barking in a low voice. Watching him -brought to my mind a story which was told me by an old bear-killer, to -the effect, that if a man lays his pocket-handkerchief over the head of -a dreaming dog, letting it stay till the dream is out, then lays it -under his own head, and falls asleep, he will have the same dream that -the dog had. A pocket-handkerchief was a luxury I had dispensed with, -but I laid my Scotch cap on my dog’s head, under which he went on -dreaming, and when he awoke I laid it under my own head, and was soon -asleep. It was perhaps owing to the idea under which I fell asleep, -although in general I can never dream what I wish, but, be that as it -may, I soon found myself running desperately after turkeys, and never -stopped, till I had chased them into a tree, when I stood looking up at -them without thinking of shooting. Just then my dog gave a loud bark, -and I jumped up. One of the Indians had risen to look to the fire, and -Bearsgrease thought it rather suspicious. My beautiful dream was gone, -and I could no longer recollect whether I barked or not. I fell asleep -again, but the dream never returned. - -Early in the morning we began to move, dividing into two parties, for -the better chance of finding game. Conwell went with some of the -Indians, amongst whom he had found an old acquaintance, to make a -circuit round the Pilot-rock, while Erskine and I, with three Cherokees, -proceeded to the sources of the Frog bayou. - -About ten o’clock we came to a cave, which seemed worth examining. We -made torches, there being plenty of strips of pine lying about; it was -settled that I should try my luck, with one of the Indians. Erskine -remained with the two others by the fire, saying he had searched so many -caves within the last four days without finding any thing, that he was -tired of it. The entrance was rather small, but it became gradually -larger, and we went a long way in. There were evidences of its having -been tried before, as we found moccasin marks, and pieces of burnt wood. -An unexpected sight suddenly arrested our progress,--the skeletons of a -man and of a bear, lying peaceably within three feet of each other. A -rifle thickly covered with rust, and a corroded knife, lay by the side -of the first, and some glass beads convinced us that it was the skeleton -of an Indian, who had bravely attacked the bear single-handed, and had -fallen in the struggle, the skeleton of the bear proving that he had -sold his life dearly. - -The skeleton was perfect, except some of the small bones, which rats or -snakes might have carried off. The Indian pointed in silence to the -upper bone of the right arm, which was broken, and the knife was lying -on the left side. - -The sight of these remains of a human being, which may have lain there -for years, while his footsteps were still so fresh in the moist earth, -was deeply affecting. As I was about to pass on, the Indian laid his -hand on my arm, and shook his head, saying, in broken English, “The -spirit of the red man is in the cave, and Wachiga goes no further.” -Nothing could induce him to go on--all my persuasions were fruitless; -pointing to the bones, he said, “The bones of the red man belonged to a -great chief; the bear seeks no bed where the hunter sleeps.” As this -last remark seemed well founded, and as the sight had shaken me too much -for me to go alone, we turned back without touching the remains. - -We found Erskine alone, and told him what we had seen, but he did not -seem at all inclined to visit the remains. We found three other caves, -but no bear: Erskine and the Indians tried the two first, Erskine and I -the last. The cave separated into two passages; Erskine took the right, -I the left, and as I proceeded I found plenty of marks. The cave was so -small that I was obliged to leave every thing but a torch and my knife; -I could not even turn myself from one side to the other to change my -attitude. I had taken off my hunting shirt, and had on nothing but a -cotton shirt and leggings, and was working on, inch by inch, with -tolerable certainty of finding a bear. The passage was quite round, and -in many places as smooth as glass from being rubbed by wild beasts. In -one place I found the skin of a rattle-snake. - -At length I got so completely jammed in that I could neither move -backwards nor forwards. The perspiration burst from every pore, and for -a minute or two I lay motionless; then I again exerted all my efforts to -force myself backwards, and, to my indescribable satisfaction, at length -succeeded, leaving, however, the greater part of my shirt behind me; and -my delight may be imagined when I again inhaled the fresh air. My hair -stood on end at the fearful thought of sticking fast in such a hole, -buried alive, and dying of hunger. - -Night found us far from our camp, so we made one for ourselves where we -were. Wachiga, who had become very pensive, sat smoking his tomahawk and -staring at the fire. Notwithstanding that he had been converted to -Christianity, he had still some remains of the old superstition. Erskine -was in high good humor, and told one droll story after another. - -On the next morning, February 1st, we had hardly started ere we heard -the dogs. Wachiga declared instantly that they were his brother’s, and -disappeared behind the rocks without another word. As we stood -listening, the sound seemed to take a different direction; we ascended -the mountain as fast as we could to cut off the chase, but found that we -must have been mistaken, for in a few minutes all was silent as the -grave; once we thought we heard a shot, but could not be certain. We -ascended to the highest terrace and walked slowly on, looking out for -fresh signs, and listening to catch the sound of the dogs; below, -amongst the broken masses of rock, they might be near without being -heard, while on the mountain tops they are audible at a great distance. - -It may have been about two in the afternoon, and we had hitherto seen -nothing, when Bearsgrease raised his nose in the air, remained for an -instant or two in a fixed position, then giving a short smothered howl, -dashed down the mountain side. Listening attentively, we heard the chase -coming down the Hurricane river. Erskine called out triumphantly, “We -shall have plenty of bear this evening,” and dashed after the dog. I was -soon by his side. I must observe, by the way, that we were both very -hungry. Presently a bear broke through the bushes; a projecting rock -stopped him for an instant, when Erskine saluted him with a ball: he -received mine as he rushed past, and disappeared. The dogs, encouraged -to greater efforts by our shots and the stronger scent, followed him -out, Bearsgrease, who was quite fresh, leading the van. They soon came -up with him, and stopped him. We rushed to the spot without waiting to -reload, and arrived in time to see the beast, excited to the greatest -fury, kill four of our best dogs with as many blows of his paws; but the -others only threw themselves on him with the greater animosity, and if -our rifles had been loaded we could not have used them. Just as a large -powerful brown dog which had furiously attacked the bear was knocked -over bleeding and howling, Erskine called out, “Oh, save the dogs,” -threw down his rifle, and rushed on with his knife among the furious -group; I followed on the instant. When the bear saw us coming, he -exerted still more force to beat - -[Illustration: THE FATAL BEAR HUNT.] - -off the dogs, and meet us. Seizing his opportunity, my comrade ran his -steel into his side. The bear turned on him like lightning, and seized -him; he uttered a shrill piercing shriek. Driven to desperation by the -sight, I plunged my knife three times into the monster’s body with all -my force, without thinking of jumping back; at the third thrust the bear -turned upon me. Seeing his paw coming, I attempted to evade the blow, -felt a sharp pang, and sunk senseless to the ground. - -When I recovered my senses, Bearsgrease was licking the blood from my -face. On attempting to rise, I felt a severe pain in my left side, and -was unable to move my left arm. On making a fresh effort to rise, I -succeeded in sitting up. The bear was close to me, and--less than three -feet from him lay Erskine, stiff and cold. I sprang up with a cry of -horror, and rushed towards him. It was too true; he was bathed in blood, -his face torn to pieces, his right shoulder almost wrenched away from -his body, and five of the best dogs ripped up and with broken limbs -lying beside him. The bear was so covered with blood that his color was -hardly discernible. My left arm appeared to be out of the socket, but I -could feel that no bones were broken. - -The sun had gone down, and I had hoped that the other hunters might have -heard our shots and the barking and howling of the dogs. It grew dark. -No one came. I roared and shouted like mad; no one heard me. I tried to -light a fire, but my left arm was so swelled that I gave up the attempt. -But as it would have been certain death to pass the night under these, -circumstances without a fire, I tore away part of the back of my hunting -shirt, the fore part being saturated with blood, sprinkled some powder -on it, rubbed it well in, all with my right hand, shook a little powder -into my rifle, and placing the muzzle on the rag, I fired, when it began -to burn immediately. Blowing it up to a flame, I piled on dry leaves, -twigs, &c., and succeeded in making a good fire, though with great pain -and trouble. It was now dark. I went to my dead comrade, who was lying -about five yards from the fire. He was already stiff, and it was with -great difficulty that I could pull down his arms and lay him straight; -nor could I keep his eyes closed, though I laid small stones on them. - -The dogs were very hungry, but as it was impossible for me to break up -the bear, I only ripped him up, and fed them with his entrails. -Bearsgrease laid himself down by the corpse, looking steadfastly in its -face, and went no more near the bear. In the hope of obtaining help, I -loaded and fired twice, but nothing moved: the forest appeared one -enormous grave. - -I felt very ill, vomited several times, and my shoulder was excessively -painful. Winding my blanket round me as well as I could, I laid myself -down beside the fire, and lost all consciousness of my wretched -situation; whether I slept or fainted is more than I can tell, but I -know that I dreamed I was at home, in bed, and my mother brought me some -tea and laid her hand on my breast; I heard the children in the street -making a noise, and saw the snow on the roofs of the houses, and thought -it must be very cold out of doors. - -Such an awakening as I had was worse than I could wish to my bitterest -enemy. Bearsgrease had pressed close to my side, laying his head on my -breast; the fire was almost out, I was shivering with cold, and the -wolves were howling fearfully around the dead, keeping at a distance for -fear of the living, but by no means disposed to lose their prey. I rose -with difficulty, and laid more wood on the fire. As it burnt up, the -face of the corpse seemed to brighten. I started, but found it was only -an optical delusion. Louder and fiercer howled the wolves, and the dogs, -of whom five were alive besides Bearsgrease, answered them; but the -answer was by no means one of defiance--rather a lament for the dead. -Partly to scare away the wolves, partly in the hope of finding help, I -loaded and fired three times; my delight was inexpressible as I heard -three shots in return. I loaded and fired till all my powder was -expended. As morning broke, I heard two shots not far off, and soon -after, a third. A shipwrecked mariner, hanging on to a single plank, -could not raise his voice more lustily to hail a passing ship, than I -did then--and, joy upon joy, I heard a human voice in answer. The bark -of the dogs announced a stranger, and Wachiga advanced out of the bush. -“Wah!” he exclaimed, starting at the shocking spectacle. He felt poor -Erskine, and shook his head mournfully. He then turned to me. I showed -him my swollen arm, which he examined attentively, without speaking. -Forming a hollow with his two hands, and placing them to his lips, he -gave a loud piercing shout. The answer came from no great distance, and -in a few minutes my dear old Conwell, and most of the Indians, were at -my side. I grasped Conwell’s hand sorrowfully, and told him in few -words how it had all happened. The old man scolded, and said it served -us right; there was no great danger in sticking a knife into a bear’s -paunch, when he is falling, with the dogs upon him, but if he has been -thrown, and then catches sight of his greatest enemy, man, he exerts all -his force to attack him, and woe to him who comes within reach of his -paws. It was all very well talking; he had not been present, and seen -one dog after another knocked over never to rise again; five minutes -more, and not one would have been saved, and who knows whether the -enraged beast would not have attacked us, then. - -Meantime, the Indians had been digging a grave with their tomahawks. -Wrapping the body in a blanket, they laid him in it, and covered him -with earth and heavy stones. Conwell cut down some young stems, and made -a fence round the solitary grave. I could not avoid a shudder at the -quiet coolness of the whole proceeding, as the thought struck me, that -the same persons, under the same circumstances, would have treated me in -the same cool way, had I fallen instead of Erskine. Like me, he was a -lonely stranger in a foreign land, having left England some years -before, and his friends and relations will probably never know what has -become of him. Thousands perish in this way in America, of whom nothing -more is heard, and perhaps in a few months the remembrance of them has -entirely passed away. - -After the dead was quietly laid in the grave, Wachiga came with an -elderly Indian to look at my arm. Wachiga moved it, while the other -looked steadfastly in my face: the pain was enough to drive me mad, but -I would not utter a sound. Next the old Indian took hold of my arm, -laying his left hand on my shoulder, and while Wachiga suddenly seized -me round the body from behind, the other pulled with all his force. The -pain at first was so great that I almost fainted; but it gradually -diminished; in spite of my resolve to show no signs of it, I could not -suppress a shriek. Conwell soon after asked if I could ride. On my -answering “yes,” he helped me on a horse; then throwing the bear’s skin -and some of the meat on his own, we moved slowly homewards. My -sufferings on the way were very great, but I uttered no murmur. I only -longed for repose. At nightfall we had still four miles to go. He asked -me if I could support the pain and fatigue, or if we should camp where -we were, as there was plenty of wood and water. I would rather have -ridden forty miles, let alone four, with the hope of rest at the end of -them. We arrived in about an hour. I was so stiff that I could hardly -get off the horse. On entering the room I threw myself on a bed, and had -a violent fever during the night, and talked wildly--fortunately in -German. Towards morning I began to feel better, had a quiet sleep, and -woke up about noon much refreshed. Meantime, old Conwell had related all -that had occurred, and they attended me like a son. It took two more -days before I could move out of bed and was able to stand. - -I was hardly so far recovered as to be able to crawl about, when Conwell -proposed another hunt, and although I had suffered so much, I could not -say “No.” On the 6th February we rode out again, but there was no -longer any life in the thing; we found the same Indians, hunted with -them a few days, shot a few deer, some turkeys, and a young bear, -returning on the 12th, Conwell with two deer-skins and some haunches, I -with a turkey. - -By this time my arm was quite healed. Nevertheless, I had made up my -mind to leave the mountains and go southwards, partly from a returning -fit of my old love of change, partly because I longed for news from -home, not having received any letters for several months, and partly -also because game had become so scarce through the number of hunters, -that there was hardly enough to subsist on. We heard that a party of -twelve men had been along the Richland and killed or driven away every -thing, and that during the last three days not a turkey was to be seen. -The news of game from other quarters was no better; in short there was -nothing for it but off! off! When I was once more surrounded by my old -friend’s amiable family, and passed another evening amongst them, my -resolution was indeed shaken; however, during the night I gave it mature -consideration, and in the morning I told them that I should that day -take my departure. Attempts were immediately made to dissuade me from -it, and old Conwell asked in downright earnest if I could not stay with -them always, and take the school. The present schoolmaster was ignorant -and a drunkard, and they would have been glad to be rid of him. For a -moment, indeed, but only for a moment, my fancy depicted the delights of -a home amongst the mountains, then the image of my old village -schoolmaster flashed across my mind, with his threadbare black coat, -false collars, and shirt-front, and his frame as thin as a skeleton. I -shook my head mournfully. He changed his plan, and proposed that I -should take a farm. But that I had also reflected on: I was too poor, -and although the kind people would have done every thing in their power -to help me, I should have been too dependent; for although much is not -required to set up farming in America, still there must be something, -and it does not look well for the beginner to be always borrowing horse -or plow, axe, spade, saw--in short, every farming and household utensil, -until at last the most patient man would be worn out, and everybody -would be alarmed the moment they saw the borrower coming. I was once -witness of such a beginning: a family that came to the forest without -any means, were at first most liberally assisted by their neighbors; -they helped them with their fences, in building their house, in clearing -and ploughing the land, and lent them every thing, even to flour and -pork; but how could people who began thus ever become independent? It -took years before they could procure the most necessary articles for -themselves. - -My old friend acknowledged the truth of the picture, and my journey was -settled for the morrow. - -My store of bears’ fat and skins was not so large but that I could pack -it on one horse, for the greater part of the skins, which had been -exposed to the wet weather, were spoiled. The skins were made up into -two bundles, one on each side of the horse, while a deer-skin sack, -containing about eight gallons of bears’ fat, lay across the pommel. One -of Conwell’s sons, who had his father’s booty to dispose of, -accompanied me, and thus on the following morning we set off for the -little town of Ozark on the Arkansas. - -I was very sorrowful on leaving this place, where the kind treatment of -these good people had so completely gained my affections, and I was -obliged to cut short my leave-taking to hide my emotions. - -Another grief that weighed heavily on my heart was parting with my -faithful dog. Intending to give up shooting, and to proceed to New -Orleans, and uncertain under what circumstances I might arrive there, I -would not willingly expose the noble creature, who promised to turn out -remarkably well, to become a mere mud-scraper in the streets. Moreover, -my old comrade had become attached to him, and requested to have him, -while my fair friends promised to take good care of him. So they tied -him up, and as I was about to ride off, and he found he was not to go -with me, he looked so entreating and affectionate with his intelligent -eyes, that I was obliged to turn away to hide my tears. - -My companion exerted himself to chase away my mournful thoughts, telling -all sorts of droll stories as we rode through the forest; and at length -I made an attempt at least to appear cheerful. - -In the afternoon we reached a tavern, which was also a store, not far -from the town. Here we disposed of our goods, though to no great -advantage, and, according to the custom, as whiskey was not sold by the -glass, we ordered a quart, and sat down in a corner to discuss a portion -of it. We found here two other men, dressed as hunters, who were playing -cards before the door, sitting on the trunk of a tree; a third leaning -against the house, was fast asleep; his features seemed familiar to me, -but I could not recollect where I had seen him, till one of the -card-players caught my eye, and held out his hand, asking if I did not -remember Bahren’s wretched steel mill at which we had been grinding -together. This recalled the whole scene to my memory, as well as the -sleeper--I had left him sleeping, and he was still asleep. - -As young Conwell had finished his business, and could not remain any -longer, because he wished to stop at a house which stood some miles on -his road home, we took a hearty leave of each other, when he mounted and -soon disappeared in the forest, driving before him my horse and a -pack-horse he had brought with him. - -[Illustration] - - - - -CHAPTER XI. - -A FATAL BRAWL--RETURN TO LITTLE ROCK--SUMMARY JUSTICE--DOWN SOUTH. - - Drunken brawl at a whiskey-shop, and its lamentable - consequences--Little Rock and its vicinity--Shooting at the “salt - licks”--Justice in the backwoods--Summary proceedings against - horse-stealers--Curing skins--The dreams of dogs--Departure for New - Orleans--The 4th of July. - - -The two hunters had finished their game, and were sitting with me over -the whiskey, conversing about old times, when six more arrived, dressed -like ourselves with leggings and moccasins, armed with rifles and -knives; they brought several empty bottles, which they caused to be -replenished, and they all seemed to be in a fair way of getting drunk. -As they were rolling about, one of them tumbled over the feet of the -sleeper, who just mumbled some indistinct words, and fell off again. -This seemed to afford them much amusement, and they began to tickle him -under the nose with blades of grass, laughing immoderately at the faces -he made. The two other young Americans told them very civilly to leave -off, alleging that the sleeper was their friend, that his sleepiness was -a disease which he could not help, and begging them to leave him in -peace. A scornful burst of loud laughter was the answer. They said they -could and would do as they chose, and one of them had the goodness to -say, that he could eat us up altogether. My blood was already on the -boil. Still it was clearly no business of mine; a somewhat ruder -practical joke at length awoke the sleeper, who was a strong-built man. -He was still the butt of their wit, while yawning and stretching his -limbs, till suddenly on looking round on the circle, he seemed to catch -a glimmering of what had taken place. His yawning was checked, and -looking round attentively, he listened to their remarks, when the -greatest braggart amongst them stepped up to him, and laughing in his -face, wished him a good morning; in another instant, he lay bleeding on -the ground from a blow of the sleeper’s fist. This was the signal for a -general row, and nine blades glittered in the rays of the setting sun. -My knife was out as quickly as any of the others, and we had a regular -hand-to-hand combat; as long as I live I hope never to see such another. -It all passed so quickly, that I can only recollect that I defended -myself against two tall fellows, that my left hand pained me much, and -that one of my opponents uttered a loud cry. At this instant a shot was -heard, and one of the strangers reeled and fell; it acted like an -electric stroke on both parties; all the knives were lowered, and every -one appeared to be interested about the wounded man. The sleeper lost no -time in throwing himself on his horse, which was tied up at the gate, -and soon vanished in the forest. All were sobered in an instant, yet no -one thought of giving chase; all were intent on endeavoring to save the -wounded man. But in vain; as the sun sank behind a range of red clouds -he breathed his last. - -The two other Americans now beckoned to me to follow them; and not -knowing whether the friends of the fallen man might not avenge -themselves in secret, they mounted, and one of them taking me up behind -him, we started at a gallop along a narrow path leading into the -interior, following the distinct hoof-marks of the fugitive’s horse. We -halted at dark and made a fire; setting off again at daybreak, we soon -arrived at the burnt-out fire of our comrade, who was again peaceably -sleeping unconcerned about any pursuit. Yet he must have thought one -probable; for a cocked pistol lay by his side, although his morbid -drowsiness had got the better of his fears. - -I gently removed the pistol for fear of accident, and awoke him. I had -hardly touched his shoulder when he made a grasp at the vacant place; -but he soon recognized us, and we made him understand that this was not -the best place to sleep in undisturbed. He admitted that himself; a -hasty breakfast was devoured, and we took time to wash our hands from -human blood, partly our own, partly that of others. My left hand, which -I had hastily bound up the night before, began to be very painful; I had -received a thrust through the palm, and the sinews were exposed. Laying -wood-ashes on the wound I bandaged it again. I had also received a -slight cut on the left side. All the others were more or less hurt; -indeed, I seemed to have come off the best. - -After breakfast, we left the path and struck into the forest, by no -means following my intended direction to the south-west; so I took a -friendly leave of the three men, turned to the right, and soon lost -sight of them. I have never seen them since, and do not even know their -names, nor they mine, though we fought side by side, and fled together. -Chance had thrown us into each other’s society, common interest had -united us for a moment, and now each went his way, caring neither who -the other might be, nor what his occupation; a true picture of American -life. - -I was again alone, and on foot, and could only make short journeys, as -my hand was very painful, and the wound in my side, though not deep, -began to suppurate. Lounging slowly on, and keeping my direction as well -as I could, I followed the course of a small stream, and was looking out -for a convenient place to camp for the night, when I observed a young -buck feeding, without the slightest suspicion of the approach of any -being likely to disturb his peace. He passed away in the same happy -thought, for my ball pierced his brain. On pulling out my knife to break -him up, I could not avoid a shudder on observing the dark stains of -blood--of human blood. I washed it carefully, for I could not bear the -sight. - -I did not take the trouble to skin the deer; in fact, I could not with -my wounded hand. So, taking the liver and kidneys, with part of the -back, I made a good fire, and soon lay stretched before it enveloped in -my blanket, with my body, but not my mind in repose. - -I lay for a long time staring at the burning embers, recalling my former -life, and forming gloomy pictures of the future; at last I fell asleep -from fatigue. A penetrating icy feeling awoke me; it was raining hard; -the fire was out; all was dark, and the present was not calculated to -sweeten the past. I pulled my wet blanket closer around me, and in the -depths of my wretchedness, abused all the four elements, with the wind -and rain into the bargain. Day came at last. Your dweller in towns, when -he rises out of his warm bed, and hears the rain beat against the -window, looks down for a minute or two on the people hurrying along in -the street, pitying those who are driven out in such unpleasant weather -by business or necessity; then turns carelessly to his breakfast, -growling perhaps because he has let his tea or coffee get cold, and at -last throws himself on a sofa. How different the case with the -backwoodsman! Unrolling himself from his wet blanket, shaking his wet -hair, shivering with cold, devouring a morsel of cold, wet venison, not -as a dainty, but to satisfy hunger; then wringing his blanket, and -laying another piece of venison in its folds, he hangs it on his back, -and continues his journey through the cold, wet forest; the lock of his -rifle, and the inside of the powder-horn, being the only dry things -about the whole man. How various the course of things in this world. The -cold and wet had inflamed and swelled my hand, which pained me much; I -cut a long strip from the skin of the deer’s back, and made a sling of -it for my arm, packed my other things over my shoulder, grasped my -rifle, and wandered along under the dripping trees, turning my back on -the cold wind and rain. - -As the day advanced, I became less dissatisfied with my fate and with -the weather. I was indifferent to both, and could even laugh when a -bush knocked my cap off, and cast it into a pool, while the wet branches -slapped my face. At length the rain ceased; a cold wind arose and dried -my upper garments, though my leggings still flapped disagreeably about -my feet. My course was directed towards Little Rock, without knowing -exactly what I was to do there. I was desirous of revisiting New -Orleans, yet did not like leaving the woods; so I walked on, trusting to -my good luck, and leaving the rest to chance. Fortunately, I reached a -house this evening, and obtained a good bandage for my wound and a dry -couch. - -On the 27th February I arrived at Slowtrap’s, who gave me a hearty -welcome; but I only stopped one night, and crossed the river to -Kelfer’s, who also received me kindly. Still I could not remain quiet, -and in a few days I continued my journey to Little Rock. - -Little Rock is, without any flattery, one of the dullest towns in the -United States; and I would not have remained two hours in the place, if -I had not met with some good friends, who made me forget its dreariness. -Several Germans have settled here, some of whom are doing very well; -many of them have good and prosperous farms in the neighborhood. The -land above the town is as dry and barren as it can well be; but on the -other side of the Arkansas, and at a short distance from the town, it is -of the finest quality. On the north of the town, with the exception of -the valley of the Arkansas, there is little except pine woods growing in -a stony soil. - -I made some excursions in the neighborhood, formed an acquaintance with -a young American with a German wife, and was their guest for some time, -employing myself in looking out for turkeys, but with little success; -the mosquitoes in the various bayous or lagoons were so numerous as -almost to drive any man mad, who camped out in the open air. I remained -for some weeks, in spite of them, but if I had stayed any longer, I fear -I should have given up shooting for ever. - -My hunting shirt was in rags, and only held together by my belt; and as -deer skins were now in a good state for dressing, I made up my mind to -return to the Fourche le Fave, and shoot at the salt licks, till I had -skins enough to make a good hunting shirt; intending to dress the skins -myself for the purpose. - -Not finding any letters, I gave up the idea of going to New Orleans, and -started for the Fourche le Fave towards the end of April. I gained my -old shooting ground on the second day, and leaving the frequented paths, -struck through the forest to a lick, where I had killed several deer the -year before, and where I hoped to find the platform I had erected, still -in its place. I reached the spot just before sunset, and hastened to -collect and split wood, and by working hard I managed to get enough -before dark;--for the twilight is very short in this latitude. I then -set to work on the stand, to raise one side which had given way: most of -the earth remained on the platform, but on putting my shoulder to it, -and exerting all my force, I succeeded in raising it to its old -position. The effort, however, had been too much for my strength; I had -tasted nothing since the previous evening, having taken no food with me; -nor had I seen any game on the way; the long march, the hard work of -hauling and splitting wood, the fatigue and exhaustion overpowered me, -and I fell fainting or at least senseless to the ground. How long I may -have remained so, I cannot say. When I recovered my senses, it was quite -dark. I got up to collect myself and consider where I was, when I heard -a deer, which had got scent of me, spring, blowing and snorting, out of -the lick, and bound away over the dry leaves. - -I went, in the first place, to a running stream, close by, and took a -long hearty draught. Feeling considerably refreshed, I made a fire on -the platform, and sat underneath, wrapped in my blanket, patiently -awaiting the approach of game. In less than an hour a young buck -advanced with light and cautious tread. I heard him for ten minutes on -the dry rustling leaves, before he came within sight. When he appeared, -he was about forty paces off, so that I could distinguish the outline of -his form, as he stood still staring at the fire, his eyes shining like -two stars out of the dark background. He cautiously advanced a few -steps, coming nearer the lick, and looking almost white in the light of -the fire. I whistled: he stopped and raised his head; my ball passed -through both shoulder blades, and he died without a cry. - -Transgressing all the rules of the craft, I neither reloaded nor -remained quiet in my place to await a second; but rushed out, dragged -him to the fire, broke him up, and in a very few minutes, portions of -him were put down to roast. I then reloaded, and kept a sharp look-out. -Probably the smell of roasting meat kept others away; for though I heard -snorting and stamping, I saw no more for the present--but my stomach -could not hold out any longer. - -Refreshed and strengthened by the food, I stirred the fire to a bright -glow, and, again on good terms with myself and the whole world, I sat -patient and watchful under the towering flames. Nothing stirred till -about one in the morning, when I again heard a light measured step, and -a doe appeared coming straight towards me. She had not the slightest -suspicion of danger, but stood staring at the fire with clear shining -eyes, hardly six paces from the stand. She was with young; still I must -have a hunting shirt, and I had raised the death-dealing tube, when -three more deer arrived on the scene, one of them a fine buck. They -passed round the lick, and then stopped about ten or eleven paces behind -the doe, who never once moved from her place. Turning the rifle a little -aside, I fired at the buck, who bounded high in the air and fell dead, -the doe flying off like the wind. She was so close that she must have -been singed by the powder. - -Deathlike stillness again prevailed. I was nodding a little, but waking -up suddenly and looking before me, I saw two glowing eyes shining -through the darkness, and soon afterwards descried the whole form of a -deer. He came straight towards me, stood for a moment, turned a little -aside, and disappeared after the crack of the rifle. I gave myself no -concern about him, but reloaded and watched for more. Whip-poor-will had -already begun his monotonous song, which regularly resounds through the -woods shortly before the first gleam of day, when I again heard the -measured tread of a deer on the dry leaves, and he received my ball just -as the gray dawn was appearing. As it grew lighter I found him lying -dead on his tracks. The third, which I had fired at, had left no signs; -so assuming that I had missed him, I made no attempt to seek him, but -set to work to skin the others. When this was done, I hung them up, and -proceeded to a farmer’s about two miles off, with whom I was well -acquainted, to tell him to take the meat; and then went on some miles -further to Kelfer’s, who received me hospitably, and in whose house I -rested for a few days. - -Hearing of another lick which was said to be very good, I resorted -thither the same evening, and was soon ensconced under a hastily -prepared platform. - -The woods in Arkansas present a beautiful aspect at this season of the -year, when the logwood trees are in bloom. They are small bush-like -trees, seldom more than seven inches in diameter, with a white blossom -of the size of a rose; but the whole tree is covered with them. They -grow in immense numbers, and give the forest the appearance of a garden. -Then the mild spring nights, the wailing note of the whip-poor-will, the -monotonous hooting of the owls, would make it altogether romantic, were -the infernal mosquitoes only away. - -I shot two deer during the night, took out their brains, and laid them -about half an inch thick on a flat stone, placed it near the fire, and -kept stirring them, to preserve them for dressing the skins. - -Imagining that I had skins enough, I took them, as soon as they were -dry, to old Slowtrap’s, as he was celebrated for understanding the -curing business thoroughly. In a few days I was seated in the well-known -chimney corner opposite my old friend, who was the same as usual, had -on the same shabby old black coat with the same eventful buttons behind, -and as usual he was roasting potatoes in the hot ashes. I made no long -preface, and next morning found me hard at work, scraping off the hair -with a knife which I had prepared for the purpose. Finding that I had -not preserved a sufficiency of brains, I was obliged to go out shooting -again, and Hogarth, who lived near, was willing to accompany me for a -few days. - -Just as we were about to start on the following morning, five horsemen -drew up before the door. They dismounted, and Hogarth asked them to -breakfast, though we had just finished. After breakfast, as they saw -that we were ready to start, one of them asked us not to go shooting -to-day, but to go with them, as they were on their way to execute an act -of justice. The case was this: Some time since had settled on the banks -of the little river, a set of men who were found to be rather too fond -of horseflesh, without inquiring particularly to whom the horses -belonged. They lived scattered over a district of about twenty miles in -circumference, and almost conclusive proofs of horse-stealing were -brought against two of these people, though the evidence was not strong -enough for proceedings against them in a court of justice, where they -could have an advocate, a being for whom all backwoodsmen entertain a -profound respect. Therefore to make short work of the matter, they had -decided on taking the law into their own hands. A man of the name of -Brogan and my poor Curly were the two victims. - -Hogarth was ready at once. I resolved to go as a spectator, fully -resolved to take no part in the proceedings. We were soon off, and -overtook the poor fellows, bound, and led between two horses. Curly was -very dejected; Brogan looked savage and desperate. When we arrived at -the rendezvous, we found a much more numerous assembly than we had -expected, there being about sixty persons present. The jury was chosen, -witnesses were brought forward, sworn, and questioned, and all the -proceedings were carried on according to the regular forms of a court of -justice. It came out that Brogan had been absent for some time during -the preceding year--that the two horses in question had been seen in the -neighborhood of these two men, in a certain place where the forest was -very thick--and that Brogan was always hanging about there. Later, Curly -had made use of one of these horses, and then sold him; the proofs were -convincing enough, yet they both steadfastly denied all the facts. - -Two men now stripped Curly of his upper garments, tied him up to a tree, -and began to belabor his back with hickory sticks. Curly had sense -enough to see that if his head remained obstinate, his back would have -to pay the score; so he offered to confess. He was instantly cast loose, -and the register of his sins was soon unfolded. He stated that he -himself had never stolen any horse, but had acted as receiver, or as he -said, had been good-natured towards the thieves. When the last horse was -to be stolen, four of them had been present, and it was agreed that he -was to be carried off and sold. But as one of them must first steal him, -it was left to sportsman’s luck to decide. He, who by a certain day, had -shot fewest deer, should undertake the risk of stealing the horse. Curly -had killed four, by the day named, the other two had shot two each, -Brogan only one. He concluded by giving the names of all the -horse-stealers, twenty-six in number, and well-known names, having the -modesty to leave out his own. - -Brogan, who had listened to it all with a contemptuous smile, was now -questioned; all attempts to make him confess were in vain; he denied -having had any share in the crime, and was tied up to a tree and -dreadfully beaten. It was a horrible sight. At first he gave vent to -volleys of oaths and abuse; then he was silent for a long time, and bore -the severe blows with wonderful firmness; at length he gave a deep -groan, and called out, “Oh, my poor wife and children.” - -Two negroes now made their appearance with spades and dug a grave; they -were followed by a white man with a cord in his left hand, and a piece -of tallow, with which he kept greasing the cord in his right, looking as -unconcerned as possible all the time, though he knew it was intended to -hang the poor wretch. This seemed rather too severe, and several of us -now stepped forward, and persuaded those who seemed most open to pity, -that if they had resolved to hang the man, they ought not first to have -lacerated him so dreadfully: this seemed evident to the others, so it -was put to the vote, and his life was spared on condition that he left -the country within four weeks, and never returned to it again. He made -no promise, and as he was cast off, he fell senseless on the grass. - -I had seen quite enough. Hogarth and I trotted off to the mountains to -think seriously about our shooting; my comrade was very pensive; I -heard afterwards that there were good reasons for it, as no slight -suspicions rested on him. - -As the weather was warm and pleasant, we resolved to look for bees as -well as deer; for we had each a great longing for honey. We placed the -bait in the empty shell of a tortoise, and separated in chase of deer. -Hogarth had a call with him and attempted to attract the does by -imitating the cry of their fawns; a most disgraceful practice, which is -too often indulged in. This practice is most abominable, on two -accounts: first, because it is base and cruel to lure the mother to her -destruction by imitating the cry of her young; secondly, because it so -rapidly exterminates all the game, by killing off the does, and leaving -the fawns to perish with hunger, when they are too young to find their -own nourishment. Although I scorned to adopt such a vile practice, I -shot a two-year-old buck, while Hogarth shot nothing. - -At nightfall, the winds seemed to break loose from all the thirty-two -points of the compass at once, to blow down all the old fir-trees in the -forest; towards midnight the storm subsided, and changed into such heavy -rain that I was obliged to cut a channel with my knife round our blanket -tent to carry off the water. - -On the next morning Slowtrap joined us with his own and Hogarth’s dogs, -as he wanted to find a bear which was paying rather too much attention -to his pigs. The dogs soon found the trail, and after a pretty fight, -Slowtrap knocked him over with his rifle ball, just as I was near -getting the worst of it by being too forward with my knife. We found -bees the same evening. - -The sun had just set, when gaining the crest of a hill, I caught sight -of a young deer quietly feeding. I raised the rifle, and was in the act -of pressing the trigger, when I saw the antlers of a very large buck, -who was walking slowly past the other, unsuspicious of harm. I had often -heard old hunters talk of the buck fever, but could never form a just -idea of the meaning of it; at this moment, however, I felt its full -effects. My anxiety to shoot the buck was so great, that I trembled in -every limb, and could not steady the rifle. At length the deer -discovered me, and raised his noble head. I knew that the decisive -moment was come, and, although the sight of the rifle quivered over his -whole form, I pulled the trigger. He gave a bound and disappeared: I -found some blood where he had been standing, but the color was not very -satisfactory, and I followed the trail in vain; he had escaped with a -slight wound. - -I returned to the camp out of humor;--and with reason,--I had lost three -pair of good moccasins by my bad shot, and was almost barefoot. Hogarth -and Slowtrap had killed a few deer, and saved the brains for me, and I -thought I had now enough for my skins. Next day we went after bees, and -found two trees, one of which we cut down--on which occasion I got -dreadfully stung. - -I now thought it time to return to my work, and was tired of going about -in shirt sleeves. I took the brains which Hogarth and Slowtrap had -given me, with what I had myself collected, returned to Slowtrap’s, and -set to work in earnest with my skins. For the benefit of those who may -be interested in the subject, I will describe the Indian method of -dressing skins. They are laid in water to soak for a whole night; next -morning they are taken out, placed on a smooth board, and the hair -scraped off. This done, the brains are mixed with an equal quantity of -water in an iron pot, and rubbed well into the skins, one brain being -generally enough for one skin; the brains having previously been put in -a coarse linen bag, boiled for an hour, and then left to cool. As soon -as cool enough for the hand to bear it, they are rubbed through the bag, -giving the water a milky color, and leaving only the fibrous parts in -the bag. The skins are put into the pot, and well kneaded, so that they -may be thoroughly saturated with the mixture; then taken out, well -wrung, and hung up to dry. Before this, they must be well rubbed and -pulled across a sharp board till they are dry, as white as snow, and as -soft as velvet. Yet if they get wet they become as hard as a stone; to -prevent this, all the glutinous substance must be destroyed by smoke. -Therefore two of them are sown together in a bag, a hole is made in the -ground, about sixteen inches deep and about eight inches wide, in which -a fire is lighted. As soon as it is in a bright glow, rotten wood is -laid on to make a thick smoke, and the skins are placed over it, mouth -downwards, till they are so thoroughly penetrated by it, that they begin -to turn brown on the outside. They are then turned inside out, and the -process repeated; when finished, neither water nor sun will hurt them -more, and their color is a yellowish-brown. - -As soon as my skins were all properly dressed, I went to an old -backwoodsman of the name of Wallis, whose wife cut out a hunting-shirt -for me, in which she used the best part of five skins, and showed me how -to sew them. After three days of industrious tailoring, I succeeded in -producing the perfection of a hunting-shirt. I now cut out a pair of new -moccasins from the skin of an old deer, that I had dressed with the -others; took some of the bark of the black walnut tree, with a little -green vitriol, and gave my new dress the proper forest tint,--and I was -once more fitted out in the regular garb of a backwoodsman. - -Wallis had been a great deal amongst the Indians, and had adopted many -of their manners and customs. He was the best white hunter I ever met -with, and never failed in discovering bees, if once he came on their -traces. He had been for a long time in Texas, and extraordinary stories -were related of him during his absence; at last, news came that he was -dead. His wife, in course of time, became acquainted with another man, -who succeeded in gaining her good graces, and so she married him. One -evening, about a year after her second marriage, a horseman, dressed as -an Indian, stopped before the door, dismounted, and tied up his horse. -He entered the house, and the woman recognized, with delight and -astonishment, the husband she had mourned as dead. At the same moment, -the other returned from shooting, with the dogs, which joyfully bounded -about their old master, and he was not a little perplexed at meeting the -lawful owner of the property; but Wallis was a reasonable man, and told -his wife very gravely, that she was at liberty to take her choice -between the two, provided he might have the children, two fine boys, and -that he would give her till the morrow to decide: so saying, he -shouldered his rifle, mounted his horse, and trotted off to the forest, -where he made his fire, and camped for the night. - -Next day, after finishing his breakfast, he saddled his horse, and rode -back to the house, to learn how his wife had decided; he found his -representative on the point of departure, who openly acknowledged that -Wallis had the prior rights, that he should be very sorry to be a cause -of discord, excused himself for the accident, begging him not to take it -amiss, and ended by offering his hand, which the other accepted. He then -rode off to the West, to seek another wife with better luck next time. -The long separated pair lived together afterwards as happily and -contentedly as if nothing had happened; it was not necessary for him to -excuse himself for not writing, as he had never learned the art, and, -even if he had sent her a letter, she would have been in the same -difficulty as to reading it. - -I had long conversations with him about shooting, and he lamented very -much the decrease of game, which, as he said, had become very sensible -for some years at the Fourche le Fave, formerly the best hunting ground -in Arkansas. Among other things we talked of the dreams of dogs. When I -told him what I had heard, and what I had experienced myself, he -confirmed it, assuring me that he had tried it with the dog which was -then lying at his feet. He said: “I was stretched before the fire one -evening, and could not sleep. The dog was lying by me fatigued with his -day’s work, for we had been out the whole day; he had been for some time -snoring lightly, and now began to scramble with his feet, and to whine -and bark in a low tone; a sure sign that he was dreaming. I had heard -from my father, when I was a child, that any one might have the same -dream as a dog, if they can catch it in a handkerchief; so I spread my -neckcloth over the dog’s head, and waited in patience till he woke. At -length when he left off barking, and raised his head to shake off the -unaccustomed covering, I took the cloth, folded it up, and laying it -under my head, I was soon asleep; I dreamed that I was running after a -rabbit, with most inexplicable rage, following it through the thickest -thorn bushes, and as at last it escaped into a hole, I thrust my head -into it, and barked, and tried to scrape away the earth to get it out. I -have tried it several times since, and always with the same effect.” -Without being superstitious, I determined to take the next opportunity -of repeating the experiment. - -My hunting-shirt being finished, I took a kind leave of the old hunter -and his family, and returned to Slowtrap’s, with whom I remained only a -few days, notwithstanding his pressing invitation to pass the summer -there, and then proceeded to Kelfer’s. From hence I revisited the salt -licks, repaired the scaffold, collected kindlers, and passed twelve -nights successively under the fire, until the mosquitoes, and other -insects almost carried me off piecemeal; yet without getting a single -shot. I never could imagine what had driven the game all away; perhaps -it was too late in the season; I only know that I lay on the look-out -many long, long nights, listening for the tread of a deer, watched the -moon rise, follow her appointed course, and set behind the trees; -hearkened patiently to the hootings of the owls, and the complaint of -whip-poor-will, and left the place each succeeding morning, without -seeing a single head of game, to seek some cool spot to sleep in, and -await the coming night. At last, my provisions being exhausted, I was -forced to return to Kelfer’s for a fresh supply. While there I decided -on giving up the fire, and trying daylight again, when I succeeded in -killing a few fine deer. One of them was the largest I ever shot. I was -going along a mountain-side, and had just fired at and missed a young -buck that was standing behind a fallen tree, with nothing but his head -visible, when, just as I had reloaded, this splendid fellow showed -himself above me, at about fifteen paces distance. My ball knocked him -over, and I never saw fatter venison. - -After some time, news arrived from Little Rock, to say that letters were -awaiting me there. I was soon ready to start, intending if their -contents were favorable, to embark for the south. My few things were -easily packed up, and I now took a warm farewell of Kelfer and his -amiable family, from whom it grieved me to part. I had lived in his -house like one of his relations, and had never been treated as a -stranger; and if I ever had found a home in America, it would have been -with him; there was only one point on which we disagreed; I was -passionately fond of field sports, and he often severely blamed my -useless loitering about in the woods, seriously representing to me that -I could not go on so for ever, and that I should be forced, sooner or -later, to settle somewhere, and become a useful and reasonable member of -society. I saw clearly enough, on such occasions, that he was right, and -was often inclined to accept the brotherly offers which he made, and to -hang up the rifle, and take to the axe; but I had become too fond of the -wild unsteady life; besides, a burning desire to revisit my native land -prevented me, and my love of change was now stronger than any other -feeling; I took up my rifle, threw my luggage over my shoulder, shook -hands all round, and followed the course of the Fourche le Fave on my -way to Little Rock. - -On arriving at the mouth of the river, I was undecided whether I should -continue my course by land or water. Unluckily, however, I found good -shooting-ground there; so, throwing my bundle under a tree, I formed a -hut of loose bark, and began shooting again to my heart’s content. - -The end of June came. My provisions had latterly much diminished, as I -had shot nothing for several days, and as the meat was soon spoilt by -the heat unless it was well dried, I began to get tired of sport, and -resolved to shoot only one more deer for provision, then go to Little -Rock, take up my letters, and come to some decision as to my future -course. - -The intention of shooting one more deer seemed this time to be easier -conceived than executed, and I lived for two days on whortleberries, a -fruit which by no means suited my stomach. It happened one morning when -I came again on the banks of the Fourche le Fave, I saw a canoe jammed -amongst some drift-wood, which had stuck fast in the river. This suited -my purpose exactly; so, without further consideration, I swam off and -secured it, took it up to my camp, threw in all my havings and -gatherings, and gained the river Arkansas the same afternoon. - -Gliding smoothly along near the bank, I observed numerous signs of deer -in several places. I landed at one of them, where the ground was all -trodden down by their feet, and where there was only one narrow rocky -path, by which they could descend to drink the brackish water, that of -the Arkansas containing a considerable portion of salt. My plan was soon -formed. I was not only excessively hungry myself, but I had some friends -in Little Rock, to whom a nice piece of venison would be a treat; so, -taking my tomahawk, I soon erected a small scaffolding over the canoe, -which was all the more easily accomplished as it had been made to serve -this purpose before, holes having been bored below the gunwales to -receive the poles. Covering it with twigs and some inches of earth, I -collected kindlers from the neighboring hills, and patiently awaited the -approaching night. As soon as it was dark I lighted my fire, then leant -back, giving the reins to my fancy and gazing on the beautiful starry -sky. After a time, raising myself silently and looking towards the place -where I expected the deer, I saw a glowing eye just above the water, and -another reflected from its surface; it was a deer, which had descended -without the least noise, and was eagerly drinking the brackish water, -about twenty paces from the canoe. I raised the rifle slowly, took a -careful aim and fired; loud sounded the report over the water’s surface, -returning in repeated echoes from the hills, and then all was as quiet -and silent as the grave. Taking a brand from the fire, I found a -yearling buck lying dead at a short distance from the spot where he had -been drinking. After breaking him up, I cut off no small portion to -roast, my hunger being truly painful; when this was satisfied I threw -him into the canoe, cast off from the bank, rolled myself in my blanket, -and, floating softly down the stream in the stillness of night, I -arrived at Little Rock in good condition on the following morning. - -I found a letter from Germany, and another from Kean in Louisiana, from -whom I had not heard for a long time; he requested me to come to him, -telling me I might easily find employment with a good salary. The -steamer “Arkansas” arrived the next day from Fort Smith, and notice was -given that on the morning of the 5th July she would start for New -Orleans. My arrangements were soon made, and not having much packing to -plague me, I passed the intervening days very happily in the society of -my friends. - -The 4th of July was to be celebrated as usual in Little Rock by a grand -barbecue, or banquet, at the public expense. I went to the appointed -place out of curiosity, and found a dozen black cooks, busily preparing -for the grand affair. Two trenches, about two yards long and four wide, -were dug in a garden near the town, the bottom of each was filled with -red-hot charcoal, the supply being kept up from a large fire near at -hand. Pieces of wood were laid across the trenches, and on the wood -immense quantities of meat; two halves of an ox, a number of pigs, -calves, deer, bears, sheep, &c., were roasting and stewing, while people -with bottles or jugs full of whiskey went about offering it to all -present. The meat itself was not particularly inviting, everybody going -up and cutting off what he wanted, and holding it in his hand to eat, -some standing, some walking to and fro. At a camp-fire this is all very -well, but such a multitude with greasy hands and mouths is not -attractive. - -I did not remain long, but returned to the town, sleeping at the house -of a German settler; and on the following morning proceeded on board the -boat, which contrary to the usual custom, was punctual to her time and -went off blustering down the river. - -[Illustration] - - - - -CHAPTER XII. - -LOUISIANA--NEW ORLEANS, AND HOME. - - Bayou Sara--German settlers--Jews--Pointe Coupée--My engagement at - the hotel--Levées, or dams, on the banks of the Mississippi--Slave - auction--Treatment of the slaves--Guinea negroes--Alligator - shooting--Flesh of the alligator, and prejudices against it--Habits - of the alligator--Scenes on the Mississippi--New Orleans; variety - of its inhabitants--Coffee-houses--The “Olbers” clears for - Bremen--The mouth of the Mississippi--My - fellow-passengers--Sharks--Sickness and death on board--The English - channel--Bremerhafen--Quarantine--The Lübecker and his unruly - American wife--Fumigation--Arrival at home. - - -We entered the Mississippi the second day, and soon left the State of -Arkansas far behind us. Of all I had seen in America it was the one -which pleased me most; I may perhaps never see it again, but I shall -never forget the happy days I passed there, where many a true heart -beats under a coarse frock or leather hunting-shirt. - -The boat went flying past the green banks, and on the third night, she -set me ashore at Bayou Sara, in Louisiana. It may have been about one -o’clock when I landed with my baggage. The little boat which brought me -from the steamer pushed off, flying back to the smoking Colossus. The -pilot gave the signal to go ahead, and, smoking and clattering, she soon -vanished from my sight. - -All was dark in the town, not a single light to be seen. Being quite a -stranger in the place, I rolled myself in my blanket and lay down on the -bank of the river. The night was warm and pleasant, but repose was out -of the question. Millions of mosquitoes were swarming furiously around, -and only left me in peace when I pulled the blanket over my head; but as -that excluded air, and I removed it to breathe, it was a signal for all -the swarm to fall upon me with renewed fury. - -At length the first negro bell was heard from the opposite shore, for -the negroes to turn out; soon afterwards a gleam was visible in the -east. My tormentors now attacked me like mad, and it appeared as if all -the mosquitoes in Louisiana had assembled with the intention of sucking -me dry, so as to preserve me as a specimen: I jumped up, and ran about -to baffle the attempt. - -Day came at last, and with it some houses were opened; amongst others a -German coffee-house. Leaving my baggage there I strolled about the -place. After lounging about for an hour, I thought it was late enough to -find out Kean, who was clerk in a merchant’s house; I soon found him, -Bayou Sara not being very large, and met with a kind reception. - -In the first place I had to change my costume; hunting-shirts and -leggings are excellent things in the forest, but not so well adapted to -a town, nor to the hot sun of Louisiana. Summer articles were not dear, -a number of German Jews having settled in the place, underselling each -other; for a few dollars I obtained a very respectable suit. - -Most of the houses of Bayou Sara are built of wood, only three or four -being of brick. It may contain about 800 inhabitants, among whom are -several Germans, who are carpenters, tailors, shoemakers, sugar-bakers, -coffee-house keepers, and a large number of German Jews, who by their -low prices have managed to get the trade in ready-made clothes -completely into their own hands. German shoemakers mustered very strong; -and here I was again struck with a peculiarity which I have remarked -among all the German shoemakers in America, namely the rage they have -for selling gingerbread and sugar-plums, as well as boots and shoes. - -In the United States as a matter of course, every person is free to buy -and sell whatever he chooses. Therefore all sorts of wares are to be -found at all the stores. In the smaller towns, apothecaries generally -combine a trade in calicoes and hardware with that of drugs; and when a -German shoemaker opens his shop, you are sure to see some glasses with -parti-colored sugar-plums, and pieces of gingerbread in the little -window, while boots and shoes are dangling on pack-thread above them. -This was not only the case in Bayou Sara, and St. Francisville, a town -of the same size on a hill about a quarter of a mile behind Bayou Sara, -but in all the smaller towns in the United States which I had visited, -and even in some parts of the large town of Cincinnati. It is at all -events a strange medley. - -I passed my time very agreeably in the society of Kean, whose employers -were good kind people, until I obtained a remunerative occupation in -Pointe Coupée, a large French settlement extending twenty miles along -the opposite or western bank of the Mississippi; this office consisted -in the management of the hotel formerly kept by Rutkin, and which he had -sold before his departure; the purchaser, however, was weak and in bad -health, and had been mostly confined to his bed, leaving the hotel to -the management of another, who was driving every thing to wreck and -ruin. The purchaser’s brother seeing that it would never do to leave it -in such hands, placed me in the situation on Kean’s recommendation. -Although my present sphere of action was very different from any thing -to which I had hitherto been accustomed, I soon gained an insight into -the business, and went on very well, as I was perfectly independent, -acting on all occasions as I thought best: and I can fairly say that I -soon brought things into better order. - -Generally speaking, living in Pointe Coupée was much more agreeable than -in Bayou Sara, as my principal dealings were with the opulent planters -of the vicinity, amongst whom were some very pleasant people; there was -also an Irish advocate living in the hotel, who had a very extensive -practice, and we conceived a mutual friendship for each other: I shall -always look back with hearty pleasure to my acquaintance with Mr. -Beattie. - -The little town of the settlement, lying rather higher up the stream on -the opposite side to Bayou Sara, consists of the town-hall, the jail, -the Roman Catholic church, the priest’s house, and the hotel. - -As the land beyond the banks of the Mississippi, particularly in -Louisiana, is lower than the river, when the latter is very full the -settlers have been obliged to throw up a dam--levée, as it is -called--which is generally from four to five feet high, but in some -places from eighteen to twenty. It costs immense sums to keep this in -repair, as the river constantly undermines it, and carries off large -masses in its wild muddy waters; moreover, it is incumbent on those -dwelling immediately on the banks to supply the means, while those -living further from the river, whose property is more liable to damage, -do not contribute any thing towards the dam; but last year there was a -discussion on the subject, and it is probable that the system will be -changed. - -The principal productions of Pointe Coupée are cotton, Indian Corn, and -sugar-cane. The gardens are filled with oranges, figs, peaches, and -pomegranates, with quantities of all the most beautiful flowers. One -great plague of the planters, in some parts of the settlement, for it -does not extend everywhere, is the coco-grass, somewhat similar to our -couch-grass. The roots extend from twelve to fifteen feet in the ground, -as may be seen when the river tears away a part of the bank. Where it -has once taken hold, it is very difficult to extirpate; it grows so fast -that, when cut down at night, it is again about an inch high in the -morning. It is not very good for cattle, though pigs are extremely fond -of the pods, which have a strong smell and taste of camphor. - -Most of the planters are French Creoles; but as several Americans live -here also, the law proceedings are carried on both in French and -English. The jailer is a poor wretched German shoemaker, and any -prisoner that has a mind gives him a cudgelling, and takes his leave. -Several cases of the kind occurred last year. - -The system of slavery makes a very disagreeable impression upon those -who are unaccustomed to it; and although I had long dwelt in slave -States, and witnessed the oppressed condition and ill-treatment of the -poor blacks, yet the horrors of the system were never so evident as when -I first attended an auction, where slaves were sold like cattle to the -highest bidder, and the poor creatures stood trembling, following the -bidders with anxious eyes, in order to judge in advance whether they -were to belong to a kind or severe master. It does not happen so often -now as formerly that families are separated, at least mothers and -children, so long as the latter are very young. In large auctions, the -law has the humanity to decree that families are only to be sold -together; but individuals are often sold, and then the most sacred ties -are torn asunder for the sake of a few hundred dollars. - -I have witnessed most heart-breaking scenes on such occasions. At the -same time, I must admit that the treatment of slaves is generally better -than it is represented by the Abolitionists and missionaries. It is to -the advantage of the owner to keep his slaves healthy and fit for work, -and not to overtax their strength, as he is bound to support them in -their old age. Their food generally is not worse than that of the poor -man in other lands. Though there are instances of rich planters treating -their slaves most shamefully, there are others where they are treated as -part of the family. In our hotel, we had a cook, chambermaid, and -porter, all slaves, who never had occasion to complain of -ill-treatment. A negro, or descendant of a negro, is not allowed to -quit the place of his abode without a pass from his master, while the -free negro must always have his papers about him. If a slave is found -without a pass, he is imprisoned until his master claims him, and pays -the expenses. Fugitive slaves frequently take refuge in the forests; and -I remember how, in Tennessee, large parties used to go out to surround -them, and recover possession of them. Although the law speaks in strong -language against the importation of fresh negroes, yet I saw several -slaves who had been brought over from Africa, and who were called Guinea -negroes, to distinguish them from those born in America. The education -of the poor blacks is strictly forbidden, for fear they should write -their own passes, and thus escape. They are kept for use and increase -like domestic animals; and yet these United States have this sentence in -their declaration of independence: “that all men are free and equal!” - -In the towns the Methodist preachers have driven what little -understanding nature has given them, out of the poor blacks’ heads, -teaching them to jump and shout, to thank God for being afflicted, and -to kiss the rod that chastises them. They kiss it, indeed, but leave the -marks of their teeth behind; and when they dare not openly oppose the -tyranny of the whites, they do so in secret, and many of the hated race -fall by the hand of the oppressed. Examples of this kind are frequent; -and although the punishment which the negro has to expect for raising -his hand against a white is appalling, it does not prevent the deed, but -only makes the doer more cautious. - -My present occupation did not allow much time for amusement, though now -and then I got some duck-shooting in winter, when the ducks come in -myriads from the north to this milder climate, where ice is very seldom -seen on the lakes and standing pools, and snow was not seen during the -whole winter. Snipe-shooting commenced early in spring, and I followed -it up with great eagerness. It is a very different affair here from what -it is in Europe; you go out in the evening, and shoot them by -torchlight, when, of course, you must have a very small charge, as they -approach within ten yards, often within five or six. The negro, who is -not allowed to carry a gun without permission from his master, goes out -with a torch, and a small bushy bough of a tree, to knock them down. -There are two sorts, both smaller than ours, and they occur in such -numbers, that in two hours I have often killed from eighteen to twenty. -During the day they remain among the thick reeds and in the marshes, and -in the evening flock to the meadows and cotton fields. They are delicate -eating, and more tender than the European variety. As the weather gets -hotter, they fly off to the north. - -The spring in Louisiana is enchantingly beautiful. All the grasses and -flowers springing out of the ground, all the buds and blossoms on the -trees, fill the beholder with rapture: the gray silvery-haired moss -dangling from the trees, giving them such a mournful appearance in -winter, now added to the beauty of the scene; assuming a more lively -color itself, it looked a transparent silvery veil thrown over the -blossoms and fresh green of the leaves. The long slender cypresses shone -to the greatest advantage under such a veil. All sorts of birds are now -to be seen; among them numbers of the mocking-bird, sometimes called the -American nightingale, warble sweetly, especially at night. - -As usual in all the plantations in Louisiana, several China-trees stood -before my house, for shade as well as for ornament. One of them was an -old patriarch, whose branches spread far and wide, and which had been -used as a summer-house by the former proprietor, who had had a flight of -stairs built up to it, and fixed a round table, with several seats. In -this tree my hammock was slung between two branches, with a mosquito net -spread over it;--for these amiable little creatures were again beginning -their wicked tricks; and I slept in the warm night wind, among the -blossoms of the tree, which have something of the perfume of the -heliotrope, surrounded by fire-flies, lulled by the notes of the -mocking-bird, and by the rushing sound of the mighty Mississippi, -flowing about twenty paces from the tree. - -The heat in May, especially in the middle of the day, was oppressive; -but when the other whites had retired to take their siesta, I went with -my rifle and harpoon to the swamps, at a short distance from the river, -to shoot alligators, which are to be found in incredible numbers, in the -warm standing pools. What dreadful statements have been written about -the formidable nature of these animals, and their fierce attacks on man! -I have always found them gentle, harmless creatures, and was very active -in shooting them. However, as I lost those I had shot, by their swimming -a little way and then sinking, I took a harpoon with a twenty-feet line, -and, going up to the waist in water, I placed myself under one of the -many cypresses standing in the swamps, and awaited their approach, as -they swam about slowly in the glowing mid-day heat, or sunned themselves -on the bank. If one came within twelve or fifteen yards, I was sure of -him. The best sport was when he was a great powerful fellow, and I -pulled one way as he pulled the other. But as standing in the terrible -heat of the sun did not suit me, I resolved to try torchlight, -particularly as many of the Creoles told me that no one had ever -attempted to shoot them by the light of a fire, it being supposed that -the alligator was bolder and more dangerous at night. So, on the next -evening, I went to the place with rifle, fire-pan, harpoon, and -kindlers. The sight from the banks of the swamp was enchanting, and made -me endure even mosquito bites with patience. The dark surface of the -water, the immense cypresses standing in it, their moss waving in the -night wind, the dark surrounding forest, the hooting of the owls, the -melancholy croak of the bull-frog, I had long been accustomed to; but -all in the water was wild commotion, and, when holding the flame behind -me, the shadow of my head was cast upon the flood, hundreds of glowing -eyes shone from all parts of it like balls of red-hot iron. As I had -only one hand free, I could not hold the rifle and harpoon at the same -time; so I fired at the head of the nearest, dropped the rifle, seized -the harpoon, darted it into the animal at the distance of six or seven -yards, and drew it by the line to the bank. I had secured two in this -way, when I saw a pair of larger eyes coming straight towards me; I -fired as before, and darted the harpoon into the wounded animal, as he -turned and showed the white of his belly. At the instant of darting the -harpoon, I was standing close to the edge of the water, with the end of -the line fastened to my right wrist. The alligator had hardly felt the -barbed iron, when he darted off and dived, jerking me into the water -before I had time to hold back. The pan fell out of my hand, and the -fire was extinguished with a loud hiss. The line was too securely -fastened for me to free myself, and I was twice dragged under water -before I felt firm bottom, when, holding back with all my might, I -succeeded in stopping him, he being somewhat exhausted by his exertions -and loss of blood; then pulling slowly and cautiously towards the bank, -gradually increasing the strain, he collected his remaining strength, -and darted off, dragging me head under again; but the water was not more -than four feet deep, and this time I had less trouble in hauling the -weakened animal to the shore. - -Wet through and through, and in total darkness, I had fortunately left -my matches, with the split wood, at the foot of a tree. I groped for and -found my pan, and in a few minutes another bright flame rose flickering -to the sky. The large alligator was about ten feet long, and I could -make no use of him; for although the planters use the fat for their -cotton machinery, for which it is well adapted, it was too old to be -eatable; the two first caught were three and four feet long; I cut off -their tails, and carried them home to eat. - -Very few of the Creoles, or even the negroes, will eat the flesh of the -alligator, partly because they feel disgust at it, and partly because -they fancy it to be poisonous; but I found it excellent, and never -experienced any bad consequences. It is white and firm, and looks and -tastes like fish, but the tail must be cut off immediately, and the -back-bone taken out, or it acquires the musty smell peculiar to these -animals. - -After this, I always took a companion with me, and when one had fired, -the other harpooned, which made the work easier. However fearful the -alligators may be of white men, it is extraordinary how furiously they -will attack negroes and dogs, particularly the latter. I was standing -one afternoon, harpoon in hand, up to the waist in water, and although -plenty of alligators were swimming about, none of them would come close -enough, when, acting on the impulse of the moment, I attempted to -attract them by imitating the bark of a dog;--fifteen or sixteen big -fellows came straight towards me, as soon as they heard it! This was too -much of a good thing: standing so deep in water, I was hardly master of -my movements, and began to step out as fast as possible for the shore, -about a hundred feet distant; I then recommenced my bark, but as I was -fully exposed to view, they were afraid of coming close, though they -kept swimming round at a respectable distance. - -The predominant religion in Louisiana is the Roman Catholic, with this -difference in the arrangements, that the priest is chosen by the -congregation, and the bishop has nothing to say in the matter. Some time -since, the people had dismissed their priest, being dissatisfied with -him; but, as he had been invested by the bishop, he maintained that the -bishop alone could remove him, and taking Mr. Beattie for his advocate, -he indicted his flock. Mr. Beattie gained his cause at the half-yearly -sessions, but the parish appealed to the court of the United States at -New Orleans. The priest repaired thither, took a new advocate, and -obtained the following sentence: “That the citizens of Pointe Coupée -might dismiss their priest, if they were dissatisfied with him, and that -neither bishop nor pope could issue commands in the United States.” - -It was about the end of June, when I made up my mind to return to -Germany. Kean had been for some time in New Orleans, engaged in -commission business, and I began to feel lonely in Pointe Coupée. I -therefore arranged my affairs, and prevailed on a brother of the -proprietor, who had formerly been in partnership with him, to undertake -the management, now that all was in good order; then, taking a kind -leave of all my good friends, I left Pointe Coupée on the 5th of -July--the same day that I had left Little Rock the year before. - -I embarked on board the Steamer “Eclipse” for New Orleans, and dashed -down the swollen stream with the speed of an arrow. The banks of the -Mississippi, in the lower part of Louisiana, offer a most beautiful -panorama of towns and plantations, to the eyes of the passenger flying -past in a steamer; the country-seats of the planters make a splendid -appearance through the orange and pomegranate trees, with the rows of -white cottages for the slaves, like so many villages, besides large -cotton fields and sugar plantations, with gangs of negroes at work, -under the inspection of a white on horseback; troops of mustangs, or -ponies, galloping with flowing manes and tails, small schooners, and -so-called chicken thieves dashing with swelling tails along the shores, -give the whole an animated aspect. At present, however, it did not look -everywhere so agreeable; the river had risen considerably, and in many -places broken through the levée, laying a number of cotton fields and -sugar plantations under water, and giving the landscape a wild and -desolate look. - -On the following morning, about nine o’clock, we approached the emporium -of the south, and a multitude of boats, barges, schooners, brigs, and -even ships lying above the town, gave evidence of the busy turmoil of an -immense commercial place. We had about forty head of oxen on board, -which had been brought from St. Louis, to be landed at Lafayette, a -suburb of New Orleans. The steamer was stopped near the shore, and the -oxen and cows bundled overboard to swim to land. This done, the engine -was set going, and passing shipping of all sorts and nations, we landed -about ten o’clock, among about sixty other steamers, on the levée of New -Orleans. - -I found Kean immediately, and accompanied him to the hotel where he -lodged, left my things there, and lounged about the town with him, -talking of bygone times. The heat was oppressive, and we were soon -obliged to take shelter in the house to escape the scorching rays of the -sun. In the evening we drove to Lafayette, where several Bremen vessels -were lying, to have a look at them, and inquire their times of -departure. We found two bound for Bremen, but the time of departure -uncertain, and I saw that I should have to remain some time in New -Orleans. - -The town had increased very much since my former visit, and was -improved in its appearance. It extends above seven miles along the bank -of the river, where it is interesting to observe all sorts of shipping, -steamers and sailing vessels arriving or departing every hour of the -day. In other respects the town offers nothing noticeable beyond -straight handsome streets, with large clean looking houses, and -tastefully ornamented shops. It is still more interesting to observe the -people, who throng the streets in all, even the hottest, hours of the -day, where every shade between white and black is to be seen. The spot -most attractive to me was the lower market, close to the levée, where -every kind of article to be found in America was for sale. The fruit -stalls looked especially inviting, and so did the fish-stalls, where -great varieties of fish were to be seen. In the midst of all the bustle -and crowding, there are quiet retreats, where a brilliant and colossal -coffee machine stands always on a table, surrounded by chairs, cups, and -plates filled with every kind of bread and cake are at hand; a pretty -looking girl performs the part of Hebe. At all hours of the day and -night, hot coffee, and in many of these places tea and chocolate, are -always ready; and almost every night, when I could not prevail on myself -to retire to the hot, close room without a breath of air, I have walked -about the ever thronged streets, and drank coffee, until fatigue drove -me to bed. At daybreak I was in the market again, among the crowds of -Americans, French, Creoles, English, Germans, Spaniards, Italians, -Negroes, Mulattoes, Mestizoes, Indians, &c., &c., and returned to -breakfast, at which I drank, Creole fashion, red wine iced, instead of -coffee, and then went to bed for a few hours. Kean joined me whenever -his business would permit; and many an hour passed in agreeable -conversation. - -At length, after a space of three weeks, the “Olbers” was cleared, and -ready to start. My effects were embarked, leave taken of all my friends, -a most hearty one of Kean, whom I loved as a brother, and who had always -behaved like one, and at ten at night the steamer “Porpoise” made -herself fast alongside, having besides a French brig, three schooners in -tow, and we started like a small fleet down the dark stream. We reached -the mouth of the Mississippi about noon the next day, and anchored. In -all directions thin green reeds were growing out of the water, giving -only a representation of land, the yellow river flowing through them, -and not a foot of solid ground anywhere visible. The Mississippi is here -a river but without any banks, though looking as if still enclosed in -its bed. To my great astonishment, houses were seen above this waste of -reeds and water, with living beings moving about them. As the pilot said -that we must wait till tomorrow for broad daylight and the flood tide, -to cross the bar, and we had nothing to do this afternoon, the captain -took two other passengers and myself to the row of houses, to see if we -could get oysters, or any thing else eatable. After half an hour’s sharp -rowing, we reached a platform resting on piles. A more uninviting place -to live in, I never saw. The water flows under the houses of this -outpost of American felicity, leaving at low-water a loose slimy mud, -which would engulf any one attempting to tread on it, and which swarms -with creeping things innumerable. I recollect an American saying that -Louisiana was not fit for the abode of man, but only for mosquitoes, -bullfrogs, and alligators, and certainly here there seemed to be reason -in his words, for how a human being could be induced to settle in such a -place is still a mystery to me. The inhabitants catch oysters at no -great distance from their houses, sell some of them to the ships, and -carry the rest in their boats to New Orleans, to exchange them for -provisions and necessaries for their families, yes, _families_,--for -women and children were there too. When we arrived, there was not an -oyster left in the place, nor any thing else eatable to be had, and they -told us that they were anxiously looking out for a boat with provisions. -A glass of brandy adulterated with a little vitriol was all that we -procured, and we returned on board, rejoicing to escape the frantic -mosquitoes of the little settlement. - -At nine the next morning we weighed anchor, and the “Porpoise,” which, -meantime, had taken some smaller vessels over the bar, now took us in -tow, and with some trouble, dragged us over, the keel scraping -occasionally. She carried us several miles out into the gulf, and then -left us to make our way alone as well as we could, which, as there was -very little wind, was slow work enough; and at length we were quite -becalmed. - -My fellow-passengers were, a Hamburgh merchant, an American landholder, -who possessed thousands of acres in Texas, which he wished to dispose -of, (I never knew any one from Texas, who did not possess at least ten -thousand acres of good land;) and a citizen of Lübeck, who had married -in America, and who was taking his wife and his two children to live in -his native country. - -July 25th, during a perfect calm, I jumped overboard to bathe in the -crystal waters. A more delightful feeling is hardly to be described than -that of diving, swimming, splashing in the warm waters of the gulf; it -almost seemed impossible to sink, the body being so buoyant in the salt -water. I felt a longing desire to become a dolphin in the transmigration -of souls, and to settle in the gulf of Mexico. I remained in the water -till I was quite tired, and was obliged to lie down. Moreover, sea -bathing never agreed with me, and on the morrow I felt rather unwell. In -New Orleans I was not quite right, but would not take any medicine; now -I thought it was time to do so, and swallowed a dose of tartar emetic I -had had the precaution to bring with me, mixing in it a glass of -Madeira. The dose was rather strong, and its effect excessive; yet I was -better after it. - -On the 28th and 29th July, two sharks were caught, and eaten; but I -could not join in the feast, for I was now really ill with a fever, and -sharp pains in the chest, and every movement was attended with great -suffering. There was also cause for disquietude, in five sailors being -taken ill, and their disease assuming an extraordinary character. - -One evening as I was lying shaded from the moonbeams, I heard the mate -talking with the American passenger, who was also unwell, and he told -him, in a friendly way, that before we were clear of the gulf, at least -five men would have to be sewn up in sailcloth and dropped overboard; -and among them he named my worthy self. This was rather more than a -joke; after escaping all the dangers and toils of the land, to be -pitched over the side like a dead dog: and I was resolved to prove the -old proverb: “Where there’s a will, there’s a way,” and to get well -again. I took a glass of excellent arrack, and had a quantity of it -rubbed on my chest and shoulders. I fell asleep in a few minutes, and in -the morning I felt lighter and better. By the 1st August I was able to -crawl about, and decidedly improving. On the 3rd, we came in sight of -Cuba, and passed close enough to the shore to make out the palm-trees -and country houses. - -The sick sailors were still dangerously ill, and though there was a -medicine chest, yet there was no doctor on board, nor any one who -understood its contents; so there was little hope for the poor fellows. -One died that same evening, another on the 6th, another on the 7th. -There were no stones or weights on board to sink the corpses, and they -swam about the ship, as if they wished to be taken on board again, and -not to be left in this waste of waters. The moon was shining clear, and -we looked long in silence at the melancholy spectacle, not knowing whose -turn might come next. - -It was possible that we should be obliged to return to an American port -for men to navigate the ship, for six seamen had deserted at New -Orleans, and one had died, and the captain had replaced them by two -Americans, one Frenchman, and one Italian, altogether too few when we -first started. However, soon after the third corpse was thrown -overboard, a fresh breeze sprang up from the westward, and on the 9th we -entered the Atlantic. The patients improved, and by the 11th all were -well and fit for work. - -Leaving the Gulf stream as soon as possible, to avoid the -thunder-storms so frequent there, we had the most beautiful weather in -the world, with a fresh S. W. wind, inspiring cheerfulness and good -spirits. We amused ourselves in the mornings with books or chess, and in -the evenings playing whist with a dummy, the time passing rapidly and -agreeably. Sometimes, by way of a change in our amusements, the American -wife cuffed her Lübeck husband, or threw some household utensil at his -head; sometimes the Texan landholder got drunk, and talked all kinds of -nonsense. Thus there was no awful pause in our entertainments, up to the -time of arriving in the channel on the 1st of September, when a cutter -came alongside, and sold us fresh fish and potatoes, which we enjoyed -very much after all the salt provisions. - -It was too thick to see the land, but after dark we made out a -light-house on the coast of England, and afterwards another on that of -Normandy. The next day was still foggy, and the wind against us; later, -a pleasant breeze sprung up from the westward, dispersed the fog, -displaying the chalky cliffs of Albion in all the splendor of the -setting sun;--hundreds of vessels were in sight, while the sea was -almost as smooth as a lake. I mounted aloft to feast my eyes -undisturbed, on old, beloved, long-desired Europe, which seemed to open -her arms with a friendly smile to welcome back the wanderer. - -I remained till the darkness hid the prospect from my sight. At midnight -the wind changed again, and we had to beat to windward; as the day was -clear, we could make out people walking at Brighton, and the long rows -of bathing-machines on the beach. We also came close in to Dover, and -then over to Calais, after which we cleared the land, and stood into the -North Sea. - -On the 17th September, a pilot came on board, and on the evening of the -18th we were off Bremerhafen, and anchored about a quarter of a mile -from the entrance on account of the ebb. Here, to our great -consternation, the pilot informed us that we should be put in -quarantine, on account of the deaths which had occurred. This was a -woful stop to all our hopes of soon treading on terra firma, and it was -in a very ill humor that I watched the dread flag flying from the -foremast. - -On the following morning we moved close to the Hanoverian fort. A boat -with a flag uniting the Hanoverian and Bremen colors, put off and came -alongside, holding on by a boat-hook, and refusing to touch a rope, for -fear of infection. Two carefully enveloped figures sat in the stern; one -of these was a doctor, who made us all look over the ship’s side, that -he might behold and study our physiognomies, and see if they looked at -all suspicious. We were mustered, to show that all were present, and -then he inquired into all the particulars of the deaths. After gaining -all the information he desired, he noted it in a book, and said quite -coolly that he would send a report to Bremen, and that we should hear -again in a few days. Here was precious felicity! We had just time to -call out to the boatmen the names of various articles we wished them to -procure us, such as fresh meat, bread, butter, potatoes, &c. a good sign -how ill we all were--ere the boat pushed off, made sail, and disappeared -in the harbor. - -The Lübecker’s American wife, the only woman on board, had in the mean -time had many a dispute with her husband, whom she shamefully tormented; -yet he bore it all with inconceivable patience. She struck him, bit him, -hid his things, or threw them overboard, abused him, and in short, -behaved in a manner that would have exposed her to the roughest -treatment from many others; but her good man bore it all with a “What -can I do?” This was his answer to the advice of everybody on board, all -wishing that she should meet the reward of her infamous conduct; but it -was always, “What can I do? I cannot strike her.” His better half -happened to hear the word strike (schlagen), and although she did not -understand German, she knew what that meant; so springing on him like a -fury, and holding her fist in his face, she told him in unmistakable -terms that if he once attempted to raise his hand to her, she would -plunge a knife between his ribs, and scratch out his eyes. She was a -little frightened by one of the party telling her that if she did not -treat her husband better, he had the right in Germany of selling her to -anybody who would buy her--a statement which I confirmed: this startled -her; but if she had had any reflection, she must easily have known that -no one would buy such a termagant. - -She behaved better during the time we were in quarantine, perhaps -feeling that she was alone among foreigners, and would be quite helpless -without her husband. - -Ten days passed away, and we only saw the boat when she brought the -letters or provisions; at length one of the party wrote a request to the -principal authorities in Bremerhafen, that the passengers at least, who -had nothing to do with the cargo, might be permitted to land. Contrary -to expectation, the answer was favorable, and next morning a barge, of -blessed memory, came alongside, “in which the passengers and -baggage”--so ran the order--“were to be thoroughly smoked.” - -All our baggage was removed to the barge; the contents were unpacked and -spread out, the hatches laid on, a dark powder thrown in, and then -something liquid, and the hold was instantaneously filled with a thick -smoke. As soon as all the goods’ were smoked, the passengers were -required to undergo the same process; and we walked about in this -dreadful smoke for about a quarter of an hour: my lungs did not get rid -of the effects of it for three days after. This ordeal past, we repacked -our clothes, and prepared, after our long absence, to tread once more on -German ground. We waved a last adieu to our good captain, his officers, -and crew, whose conduct could not be too highly praised; and in a few -minutes, with light and joyful hearts, we stepped on the soil of our -native land. - -THE END. - - -Typographical errors corrected by the etext transcriber: - -A Racoon=> A Raccoon {pg viii} - -unsteady zizgag flight=> unsteady zigzag flight {pg 247} - -for the mouutains=> for the mountains {pg 285} - -I was indtfferent to=> I was indifferent to {pg 354} - -sparng up from=> sprang up from {pg 392} - - - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Wild Sports In The Far West, by -Frederick Gerstaecker - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK WILD SPORTS IN THE FAR WEST *** - -***** This file should be named 51800-0.txt or 51800-0.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/5/1/8/0/51800/ - -Produced by Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images available at The Internet Archive) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license - - -Title: Wild Sports In The Far West - -Author: Frederick Gerstaecker - -Illustrator: Harrison Weir - -Release Date: April 19, 2016 [EBook #51800] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK WILD SPORTS IN THE FAR WEST *** - - - - -Produced by Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images available at The Internet Archive) - - - - - - -</pre> - -<hr class="full" /> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/cover.jpg" width="300" height="500" alt="" title="" /> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/a000i_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/a000i_sml.jpg" width="325" height="500" alt="[Image unavailable:AN UNEXPECTED RENCONTRE.]" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">AN UNEXPECTED RENCONTRE. -<br /> -<small>MEISEL BRO<sup>S</sup>. LITH</small></span> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_i" id="page_i"></a>{i}</span></p> - -<h1> -WILD SPORTS<br /> - -<small><small>IN</small></small><br /> - -<span class="eng">The Far West.</span></h1> - -<p class="cb"><span class="smcap">By</span> FREDERICK GERSTAECKER.<br /> -<br /><br /> -<span class="eng">Translated from the German.</span><br /> -<br /><br /> -WITH EIGHT CRAYON DRAWINGS,<br /> -<br /> -<small>EXECUTED IN OIL COLORS,</small><br /> -<br /> -FROM DESIGNS BY HARRISON WEIR.<br /> -<br /> -BOSTON:<br /> -CROSBY, NICHOLS AND COMPANY.<br /> -<span class="smcap"><small>117 Washington Street.</small></span><br /> -1859.<br /> -<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_ii" id="page_ii"></a>{ii}</span><br /><br /> -<small>CAMBRIDGE:<br /> -ALLEN AND FARNHAM, ELECTROTYPERS AND PRINTERS.</small><br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_iii" id="page_iii"></a>{iii}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="PREFACE" id="PREFACE"></a>PREFACE.</h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">On</span> my return, a short time since, to my native land, from the wilds of -America, it was not at first my intention to offer to the public the -contents of the diary I had kept during my travels, and written out in -detail as an employment for my leisure hours, for the exclusive use of -my family in Germany. Incited, however, by the interest awakened by the -publication of a few extracts in one of our periodicals, and yielding to -the wishes expressed by various friends who had read the remainder, I -undertook to correct and revise my notes, and to mould into a continuous -narrative a diary which I had only kept when circumstances worthy of -being chronicled arose,—for instance, on the voyage out, on my march -through the United States, during my sojourn among the swamps of -Arkansas, and finally during my hunting trip in the Ozark mountains.</p> - -<p>I have endeavored faithfully to portray the social condition of the -Americans, in so far as it came under my observation, and many a reader, -while turning over<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_iv" id="page_iv"></a>{iv}</span> the pages of this work, will seek in vain the wonted -glowing descriptions of the riches and plenty which the dwellers in the -West are reputed to enjoy. It is true that the American farmer -commencing operations with small means, may, by dint of <i>very</i> strenuous -exertions, realize an independence in a shorter time than would suffice -for this object in our old fatherland; but, on the other hand, he must -be prepared to renounce every thing that gladdened his heart in his -native country—and only too quickly will he discover that to wean -himself from the comforts to which he has been from childhood -accustomed, to quit the society and intercourse of the civilized world, -and to seek in a far land a life of freedom indeed, but likewise of -solitude and privation, is a harder task than it at first appeared. And -not every man is sufficiently strong of heart to bear the emigrant’s lot -without a murmur.</p> - -<p>But should any inveterate sportsman, with an imagination heated by the -description of these scenes, excited by the dangers and difficulties of -the enterprise, depart to the far West, to experience similar -adventures, let him remember, when wet, hungry, alone, and a prey to -mosquitoes, he lies stretched in the untrodden forest, longing in vain -for a fire, and for the society of men; or when he has been following -the tracks of the deer for days together, without the chance of a single -shot, until he can almost persuade himself that the tales he<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_v" id="page_v"></a>{v}</span> has read -of wild sports in the West are but myths existing only in the brains of -the Indians; let him, I say, remember that I have, so far as in me lay, -painted all this in its true colors, and that many an adventure which -reads admirably on paper, is in reality the reverse of romantic.</p> - -<p>The chase in the United States is, moreover, rapidly on the decline; for -the American hunter spares nothing, and for some time, particularly -since the day when skins were first paid for in hard dollars, a war of -extermination has been waged against the poor stags and bears;—so that -the hunter who, some five years hence, shall visit these realms, will -scarcely find his expectations of sport realized, unless he is prepared -either to content himself with small game, or to penetrate to the Rocky -Mountains, and explore the territory of the Indians.</p> - -<p>With the concluding request to my readers, to remember that these pages -are penned by a man who, so to speak, has but just emerged from the -forest, and who relates his experiences to his friends at home, not -caring for the fact that he might, perhaps, by adopting a different -method, have told his story with more effect, this diary is submitted to -the kind consideration of the public, by</p> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">The Author</span>.<br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_vi" id="page_vi"></a>{vi}</span></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_vii" id="page_vii"></a>{vii}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="CONTENTS" id="CONTENTS"></a>CONTENTS.</h2> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary=""> - -<tr><th colspan="2" class="c"><a href="#CHAPTER_I">CHAPTER I.</a><br /> -FROM BREMEN TO NEW YORK.</th></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">The Bremen Lighter—A Parting Jollification—The good Ship -“Constitution”—The Steerage—The Last of Germany—Sea-sickness—Life -on Board—The Channel—Sea Sights—A Shark—A -Wreck—Bathing at Sea—Dancing on Board—Stormy -Weather—The Coast of Newfoundland—Festivities on the 4th -of July—Shark and Pilot-Fish—Mother Carey’s Chickens—Land -ho!—Staten Island—Our Destination</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_001">pp. 1—30</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" class="c"><a href="#CHAPTER_II">CHAPTER II.</a><br /> - -NEW YORK TO BUFFALO.</th></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Car-drivers—An Irish Funeral—German Boarding-House—A Pulpit -in a State of Siege—Negroes at New York—Shooting Excursion -near New York—Railway to Utica—American Canal Boat—My -Fat Fellow-passenger—Pennsylvanian smith—Hamilton—Wild -Duck-shooting—An Indian Hunter—Night in the Woods—A -Yankee Cattle-dealer—Buffalo Politicians<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_viii" id="page_viii"></a>{viii}</span></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_031">31—60</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" class="c"><a href="#CHAPTER_III">CHAPTER III.</a><br /> - -OHIO—INDIANA—ILLINOIS—MISSOURI.</th></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Wet and Weary—Out in the Woods—The Forest Mill—A Raccoon—A -Pleasant Travelling Companion—My Israelite Fellow-lodgers—Fording -the Wabash—A Wet Road—Buck-shooting—Illinois -and its Climate—I set off for New Orleans—Lead -Mines in Missouri </td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_061">61—82</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" class="c"><a href="#CHAPTER_IV">CHAPTER IV.</a><br /> - -ARKANSAS, AND “DOWN RIVER” TO NEW ORLEANS.</th></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">The Eagle—An Old Settler—My unsuccessful Hunting Dog—The -Polish Refugee’s Habitation—An Unnecessary Circuit—Indian -Tribe—Little Rock in Arkansas—My Engagement on -board the “Fox”—Quarrel with the Captain—An uncomfortable -Night—Treatment of Slaves—A Woodland Supper—A -Panther—Bear-shooting—Life among the Indians—An Indian -Shooting Party—Wolf Traps—Narrow Escape for my Canoe—By -Steamer to New Orleans</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_083">83—116</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" class="c"><a href="#CHAPTER_V">CHAPTER V.</a><br /> - -CINCINNATI—A FARMER’S LIFE IN THE WOODS.</th></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">A Runaway Couple—Cincinnati and its Religious Sects—The Girl -“possessed with a Devil”—I start afresh for the Woods—Bad -Sport and bad Weather—Crawfish—Blackfish Lake—A Picnic -in the Woods—Mule Drivers from Texas—Strong’s Plantation—A -Swimming-race with the dogs—Saint Woodland’s -Farm—Bee-hunting—Wild Honey—Searching for Horses—Dancing -for a Dinner—Backwoods Building—Ague—My Methodist -Friend—Duck-shooting—Snakes in the Swamps—Our -Farming Arrangements<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_ix" id="page_ix"></a>{ix}</span></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_117">117—149</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" class="c"><a href="#CHAPTER_VI">CHAPTER VI.</a><br /> - -A FARMER’S LIFE IN THE WOODS (<i>continued</i>).</th></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">A Wolf—We shift our Quarters—False Alarm—Squirrel for -Breakfast—Primitive Mode of Winnowing Corn—“Oiltrove -Bottom”—Pawpaw Trees—“Not at home”—Hard Fare—A -Panther—Visit to Hilger—A Great Political Discussion—Clearing -Land for Fields—Ague—Prompt Burial in the Swamps—A -Backwoods Family—Swindlers in Arkansas—White River -and its Neighborhood—Magnus, the Great Buffalo Hunter—A -Patient with the Ague—Swamps—Hunting with an unloaded -Gun—Death of the Bear</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_150">150—181</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" class="c"><a href="#CHAPTER_VII">CHAPTER VII.</a><br /> - -WOODLAND SPORTS—CANE-BRAKES—MY EXAMINATION -BY THE SCHOOL COMMISSION.</th></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Turkey-shooting with Dogs—Forest Travel—Scarcity of Provisions—Overcup -Oak—Buck-hunting—Buffalo-hunting—Return -to the Haunts of Men—Bear-hunting with dogs—The Falling -Tree—“Shocking bad Dreams”—Ladies in the Forest—Unemployed -Hands in Cincinnati—Card-playing in the Cane-brake—German -Settlers down South—The Great School Examination—Speculation -in Canes</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_182">182-209</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" class="c"><a href="#CHAPTER_VIII">CHAPTER VIII.</a><br /> - -FARMING AT FOURCHE LE FAVE—A BACKWOODS “FROLIC”—RESIDENCE -AT KELFER’S FARM—SCHOOLS—HUNTING -EXCURSION.</th></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Partnership with Rutkin—Removing Goods by Canoe—Scalding -Pigs “Arkansas Fashion”—Shooting Deer by Night—Disagreement -with Rutkin—A Backwoods “Frolic”—Relays of -Fiddlers—Chasing a Wolf with a Canoe—Another Shooting<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_x" id="page_x"></a>{x}</span> -Excursion—The Sessions in the Backwoods—An inconvenient -Court-house—Departure from Kelfer’s Farm—Road-making in -the Backwoods—Visit to Bahrens—Habitual Reserve of the -Americans—Mechanical Ingenuity of Backwoodsmen—An Indian -Adventure—Raccoon-shooting—Bee-hunting in the Backwoods—Duck-shooting—Curly -the Settler—A Prize—Curly’s -Mishap—An Unpleasant Nocturnal Visitor—Shooting a Panther—Return -to Slowtrap’s</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_210">210—257</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" class="c"><a href="#CHAPTER_IX">CHAPTER IX.</a><br /> - -HUNTING ANECDOTES AND EXPERIENCES—CHRISTMAS—CONWELL -AND HIS REMINISCENCES.</th></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Surprised by a Panther—A New Hunting Excursion—The Fox—“Stole -Away”—The Two old Cattle-dealers—Bear-hunting -Extraordinary—Deer-stalking by Night—Duck-shooting—Thunderstorms -in Arkansas—Our Nocturnal Encampment—Indian -Migration—A Bootless Chase—Lost in the Forest—Mr. -Davis’s Farm—Conwell and his Family—Slowtrap’s Adventure -with the Cow—Terrace-hills—A Prize—A Sumptuous Breakfast—A -Two-year-old Bruin—A Comfortable Evening—Indian -Stratagem—Simplicity of the Backwoodsmen—Bivouac—Story -of the Moccasins—Almost surprised by a Panther—A Novel -Sleeping-room—Struggle with a Buck—Story of a Buffalo Hunt—Books -in Wet Weather—Manna in the Desert—Marauding -Wolves—Bruin in his Nest—Honey-laden Home</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_258">258—311</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" class="c"><a href="#CHAPTER_X">CHAPTER X.</a><br /> - -A PERILOUS BEAR-HUNT—A DEBATING SOCIETY—PANTHER -HUNT—DISASTROUS EVENTS—DEATH OF ERSKINE—DEPARTURE.</th></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Bears in their Winter Quarters—Bruin’s Cave—Our Adventure in -the Cave—Attack and Retreat—Pursued by a Wounded Bear—Victory -at last—Another Bruin in his Lair—Backwoods Debating<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_xi" id="page_xi"></a>{xi}</span> -Society—Knotty Points of Debate—A Panther in a -Cave—Watchfire and Wounds—Off again after Game—Hunting -with the Indians—Skeletons—Narrow Quarters—Wachiga—Our -Fatal Temerity—Erskine’s Death—A Terrible Night—A -Primitive Operation—I decline taking a Farm—A Rencontre</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_312">312—349</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" class="c"><a href="#CHAPTER_XI">CHAPTER XI.</a><br /> - -A FATAL BRAWL—RETURN TO LITTLE ROCK—SUMMARY -JUSTICE—DOWN SOUTH.</th></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Whiskey and Bloodshed—Wounded and Alone—A Prize—Return -to Slowtrap’s—Little Rock—Deer-shooting at the “Salt Lick”—Logwood -Trees in Arkansas—Summary Judicial Proceedings—Calls -for attracting Deer—Indian Method of Dressing Skins—A -Matrimonial Difficulty—Buck-shooting—Letters at Little -Rock—Canoe Voyage down the Arkansas—Celebration of the -4th of July</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_350">350—373</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" class="c"><a href="#CHAPTER_XII">CHAPTER XII.</a><br /> - -LOUISIANA—NEW ORLEANS, AND HOME.</th></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top">Mosquitoes—Meeting with Kean—The Hotel at Point Coupée—Slaves -and their Condition—Snipe-shooting—Vegetation of -Louisiana—Shooting Alligators by Torchlight—Their Antipathy -to Dogs and Negroes—New Orleans—The “Olbers” for -Bremen—Mouth of the Mississippi—The Gulf of Mexico—Fever—The -Lübecker and his Wife—The Channel—Quarantine</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_374">374—396</a></td></tr> -</table> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_xii" id="page_xii"></a>{xii}</span> </p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_001" id="page_001"></a>{1}</span> </p> - -<h1>W I L D S P O R T S<br /> -<small><small>AND</small><br /> -ADVENTURES IN THE FAR WEST.</small></h1> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_I" id="CHAPTER_I"></a>CHAPTER I.</h2> - -<p class="chead">FROM BREMEN TO NEW YORK.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">A Bremen lighter, and its capacity for holding passengers—An -unexpected meeting—Scene on board the lighter—The captain—First -night on board—A parting dance on shore—Our new passengers and -their mishaps—The “Constitution”—Steerage arrangements—Sleeping -berths—Scenes between decks—Departure—Sea-sickness—Our Jewish -passengers—The French and English Coasts—The Atlantic—Jelly-fish -and “Portuguese men-of-war”—Small-pox on -board—Dancing—Phosphorescence of the sea—Fricandeau-days—Stormy -weather—Meeting of ships at sea—The 4th of July and its -festivities—The shark and pilot-fish—Projects to pass the -time—“Land ho!”—Arrival, harbor, quarantine, and examination of -luggage—We take leave of the “Constitution.”</p></div> - -<p class="nind">“<span class="smcap">Does</span> the boat start at nine <i>exactly</i>?” “Yes, do not be later.” Such -was the notice I received as I spoke with the master of the lighter, -which in the spring of 1837 was to take me with bag and baggage on board -the “Constitution,” bound to New York, then lying in Bremen Roads, about -forty miles from the town, and only waiting for the two lighters, which -were to take on board the steerage passengers with their effects.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_002" id="page_002"></a>{2}</span></p> - -<p>I was true to my appointment at nine o’clock, but soon found that there -was no necessity to have hurried myself, as no preparations had been -made for starting; I took advantage of the time to look over all my -effects, to see if I had everything I thought necessary, and to procure -any thing that was wanting: in a large chest, that could easily be got -at, I had packed some bottles of red wine, a keg of sardines, another of -herrings, a Westphalian ham (oh, that there had been six!), some lemons, -a little rum, pepper, sugar, some tin vessels for the table and to keep -food in, knives, forks, and spoons. I found all right, and then lounged -along the banks of the Weser, so as not to lose the boat. I was -astonished at the number of passengers that arrived; and when I saw the -crowd of people to be stowed in the miserably small boat, it appeared to -me impossible that she could hold so many. While I was leaning against -the corner of a house and looking on, a young man approached, wrapped in -a blue cloak, with a foraging cap, spectacles, a long pipe in one hand, -and a knapsack in the other; he looked at me steadfastly for a moment, -and then accosted me with the intimate “Du” (Thou). His features were -familiar to me, but I did not remember him till he mentioned his name; -he was H., a former school-fellow, who was about to embark in the same -ship. The sight of him first recalled to mind, since I had taken leave -of all who were near and dear to me, that I was not quite alone in the -world, and that there was still some one who would interest himself for -me; of course we were now inseparable.</p> - -<p>We lounged about together for some time in the town, and on returning to -the boat found for certain<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_003" id="page_003"></a>{3}</span> that it would not start till the following -morning. Most of the passengers went on shore in the evening. H. and I -remained on board with our baggage. Next morning we cast off from the -shore and made sail with the ebb; the wind was unfavorable. No one who -has not made such a passage, in a similar boat, with a like number of -passengers, can imagine the scene. It is necessary to give a short -description of it, as these boats are still in use, and may yet carry -thousands of emigrants from their native land. The lighter was -cutter-rigged, about forty-five feet long, and some fifteen broad, with -a little hole in the after part called a cabin, with two sleeping places -on one side and some rows of shelves on the other; it was about large -enough to contain six people closely packed. Imagine sixty passengers in -the other part of the boat! (for the cabin was only for the master, or -captain, as he liked to be called). Sixty live passengers, with their -chests, trunks, hat and other boxes, handkerchiefs of provisions, -cloaks, mattresses, coverlets, &c. &c.; and not young men only, but old -and young women, old men and boys, children and old maids, sitting, -lying, standing, and leaning about. If any one had told me beforehand -that such a number of people could have been packed in such a space, I -would not have believed him.</p> - -<p>When all had settled themselves, and I was firmly persuaded that it was -quite impossible to find room for one more, without hanging him up under -the deck, a pair of legs poked themselves down the hatchway; over them -was a blue jacket, topped by the rubicund visage of our faithful -captain. After trying for some time with his feet to find a solid -foundation to stand on, he<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_004" id="page_004"></a>{4}</span> let go his hands, and lighted on the corns -of a lanky sailor, who had squeezed himself in between two chests, and -had fallen asleep standing; the pain made him draw up his long legs, and -he was so disconcerted, that, still half asleep, he courteously begged -pardon of the captain, or Tarpaulin, as we called him.</p> - -<p>The captain now began to look about him, stepping over two and sometimes -three persons at a time. But what was his motive for taking all this -trouble? Merely to look at the pretty faces of the female passengers, -and to try to make himself agreeable to them—but time and place, wind -and weather were against him; he only received snappish words from some, -and derision from others; finding that nothing was to be gained from the -fair sex, he turned to the other, and began to ogle various -attractive-looking bottles, which were less coy towards him, for here -and there some of them were uncorked and their contents earnestly -inquired into.</p> - -<p>At last he went on deck, and I followed, not without difficulty, to get -at least a breath of fresh air; the weather was bad, the sky cloudy, -with a sharp cutting wind, and occasionally rain: the dull -leather-colored banks of the Weser filled me with melancholy.</p> - -<p>H. had followed me; so we lit a couple of cigars, and talked over old -stories. We anchored at dark, as the master was afraid of running -aground—the vessel swung round, the sails were lowered, and all was -quiet for the night. As the dew fell heavy and cold, we once more -descended through the dark abyss of the hatchway. Not a light was -burning, and all lay close packed together; how I managed to get through -the mass is still a<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_005" id="page_005"></a>{5}</span> mystery, but I remember that I passed the night, -sitting on the corner of a chest, leaning my head upon another with an -enormous padlock, against which I constantly knocked.</p> - -<p>What a scene in the morning!—I was as hungry as a wolf—and no wonder, -for I had eaten nothing since the previous morning; I got on deck, -washed my face and hands in a bucket of Weser water, and greedily -devoured a morsel of bread and cheese which I had in my pocket. The -weather had improved, the boat dropped slowly down with the tide. About -eight o’clock we met a small fishing boat, from which I bought some -capital shell-fish; these our captain ordered to be cooked by his -ministering spirit, and of course came in for his share. When the flood -made, we anchored again; H. and I with the only sailor went on shore to -recruit our store of provisions, as our passage seemed likely to be a -long one.</p> - -<p>In the afternoon we dropped down to a village called, I believe, Bracke, -where some merry music struck our ears. Our Tarpaulin would not have -passed it had the whole admiralty of Bremen been standing sentry on the -shore; although the wind was fair, and the ebb still running, the anchor -was dropped, the little boat hauled up, and all the younger members, -babies excepted, landed on the beach.</p> - -<p>Dancing was carried on with vigor for a couple of hours, but I took no -part in it; I was in no humor for dancing. I was nevertheless amused; -the emigrants, in the costume of their different states, even in the -moment of bidding farewell to their native land, jumped and bounded to -the sound of a couple of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_006" id="page_006"></a>{6}</span> fiddles and a horn, without a care for the -future. As it began to grow late, the not very tender lighterman’s -conscience of our captain began to reproach him. The wind was fair, and -he knew that the ship was only waiting for him; so he collected his -cargo, and we left the merry sounds behind us. We had had some fun at -any rate, and that made the time seem shorter.</p> - -<p>At Vegesack, another village on the Weser, we received three more -passengers, also bound for our ship—a man of about five or six and -forty, his wife, some seven or eight years younger, and their hopeful -son, of about eighteen.</p> - -<p>As it was a downright impossibility to squeeze in three more passengers -amongst us, Tarpaulin gave them up his cabin, as he called it. It cost -no little trouble to get the two rather helpless old folks stowed below. -William, for that was hopeful’s name, managed it quicker, for his foot -slipped, and down he went, like a flash of lightning, between his -astonished parents, crushing his mother’s bonnet in his descent. Towards -evening our captain wanted some tar. It was stowed under a scuttle in -the floor of the cabin. The sailor, who had taken rather too much on -board at Bracke, and thereupon had totally forgotten the principles of -equilibrium, tumbled to the foot of the cabin ladder, and made the trio -understand that it was necessary to open the little hole in the floor, -and that therefore they must press themselves as close as possible -against the ship’s sides. This was easier said than done, because a -narrow seat ran along the sides. The scuttle was at last opened, the -iron pot lifted out, and set with its sharp edge on William’s toes, -causing him to draw back<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_007" id="page_007"></a>{7}</span> his foot and strike his heel forcibly against -the ship’s side. But his cup of sorrow was not exhausted yet. With -sublime patience he awaited the retreat of the sailor, who, with -unsteady hands, lifted the bucket towards the captain, who had stretched -out his hands to take it; but “there’s many a slip ’twixt the cup and -the lip.” The bucket turned over. William, poor innocent William, -received the whole of the contents, and the captain got nothing more -than his favorite perfume. He swore like a heathen. And what said -William, as he stood there like butter in the sun? If the saying is -true—“well greased goes easy,” it ought to have gone easy with him.</p> - -<p>One more night had we to pass in this wretched boat. It would fill -volumes to relate all the occurrences, serious and comic. In the morning -we saw the object of our hopes—the barque “Constitution”—lying at -anchor, with flags flying. We were soon alongside and on board. The -confusion of this moment was indescribable. The second lighter had -arrived two days before us with the other passengers, who had secured -the most convenient bed-places, and arranged their packages to the best -advantage; no trifling matter in so small a space. The steerage was -about thirty-three feet long by twenty-seven wide, and eight high, with -posts, or stanchions, in the middle, to support the upper deck, to which -the chests, &c., were lashed. Imagine on each side two rows of -bed-places, one over the other, about six feet square, each wide enough, -or rather not wide enough, to contain five people. The chests, cases, -packages of all sorts with clothes and provisions, were stowed in the -intermediate spaces, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_008" id="page_008"></a>{8}</span> lashed to the posts, to keep them from -tumbling about with the motion of the ship, leaving a space on each side -of about twenty-two feet long, and from twelve to fourteen inches wide, -for 118 passengers. At first I could not believe that we were so many, -but by degrees became convinced of it. After for a short time viewing -the scene with its forms climbing and crawling about through the gloom, -I imagined to myself the motion of the ship, the lashings giving way, -the chests and boxes flying from side to side, and the advent of -sea-sickness, which the number of tin basins kept in readiness seemed -mournfully to forebode;—I hastily mounted to the deck, which seemed -spacious and well arranged.</p> - -<p>Although lying at anchor, the “Constitution” appeared to one so -uninitiated as myself to roll considerably. Before dark, I crept below -again to take another look at my sleeping-place. There were five of us, -whom fate and our own volition had consigned to a space six feet square, -with the audacious idea of resigning ourselves to the arms of Morpheus; -but we were so squeezed together that the god could not have clasped an -individual; so he must either take all five at once, or leave us to our -fate. Our mattresses were spread (each had a mattress and coverlet), and -we crept in one after the other. When four had taken their places, two -of them being men of colossal bulk, the space was filled, and the -question arose—What was to become of the fifth? Lie across? That would -have been too uncomfortable for those below. Under our heads? That would -not have been agreeable for H., who was the fifth man; besides he was -so<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_009" id="page_009"></a>{9}</span> scraggy and bony, that I doubt if our heads would not have had the -worst of it. At last we all agreed to lie on our sides, and H. squeezed -in. Turning round was a thing not to be thought of; and thus we passed -our first night in our long-desired ship.</p> - -<p>Next morning, when my left side awoke (my right lying fast asleep for -some time longer), all my limbs seemed bruised and broken; I almost felt -homesick. I crept out as well as I could, and went on deck to get a -wash, a bucket serving me for a basin. The wind blew cold and -comfortless through the rigging. All was soon in motion below, and as I -looked down the hatchway, I was forcibly reminded of Schiller’s -“Diver,”<span style="font-size:90%;">[*]</span></p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">“Wie’s von Salamandern, Molchen, und Drachen<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Sich regt in dem furchtbaren Höllenrachen.”[*]<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">Salamanders, and monsters, and dragons did go<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Through the fearful jaws of the hell below.<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">Laughter, singing, roaring, cursing, the screams of children, crying, -and praying, resounded in a confused din up the hatchway. Presently, one -sleepy face after another crept up the ladder, with blinking eyes, -accustomed to the nether darkness, and looked towards the morning sun -just breaking through a bank of thin gray clouds. In about an hour’s -time, a talismanic word, pronounced in a loud voice in the forepart of -the ship, put life into the crew, who had been on board some days: we -soon found that this mysterious word meant, -“breakfast”—“dinner”—“supper.” We received coffee, biscuit, and brown -bread, but every one had to find his own can, and to fetch his portion -himself.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_010" id="page_010"></a>{10}</span></p> - -<p>I had now time to notice my bed-fellows: H., I have already described; -the other three were a joiner, a doctor, and an apothecary, the two -latter big enough to fill up one sleeping-place to themselves. As far as -I could judge on such short acquaintance, they seemed to promise -agreeable society.</p> - -<p>Boundless disorder still reigned around. No one seemed to know where he -ought to be; everybody was asking for a chest, a box, a trunk: the fair -sex, of whom we had about twenty-five, had made no arrangements among -themselves, so that, instead of only eight, sixteen were speaking at the -same time. I sincerely pitied some among them, who seemed to have been -in better circumstances, but who, probably through insufficiency of -means, were obliged to choose the cheaper passage in the steerage, and -to forego all the comforts to which they had been accustomed from -childhood. A single man can rough it; indeed, it is highly interesting -to take part in all this life and bustle, and I would not on any account -have taken my passage in the cabin; but for a woman, it is quite another -thing; for what may serve as a joke and subject of conversation to a -man, alarms and hurts the feelings of a woman: it was, however, very -different with some Oldenburg lassies. They seemed as much at home as in -their ferry-boats; the greater the uproar and disorder, the more did -they laugh and enjoy it. The race of Israel had about sixty -representatives on board, among them some pretty Jewesses; had they all -been dirty peddlers, I must have jumped overboard.</p> - -<p>After two days, the pilot came on board, the anchor was weighed, all was -life and mirth. None would remain<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_011" id="page_011"></a>{11}</span> below, and the deck was crowded; the -wind blew fair and we were soon in the North Sea. The strip of land -became smaller and smaller; the pilot left us; his boat lessened and -lessened; then there was only a thin, blue line with one dark point, the -steeple of Wangerode; this became more misty and indistinct; the last -trace of home disappeared in the blue distance. There, behind those thin -clouds that seemed to lie on the water, lived all those who were near -and dear to me in this world,—and yet I had no tears, for their source -seemed dried up. I stood for a long, long time scanning, with dry eyes, -that part of the heavens. I went early to bed to indulge my thoughts. I -had hardly turned in, when my comrades came, and the squeeze began -again. All was tolerably quiet in the steerage, most of the party being, -probably, affected by the disappearance of their mother country.</p> - -<p>Running with a fair wind, the ship soon became uneasy; I awoke in the -night with a very disagreeable sensation, to find that my head lay much -lower than my heels. Our berth was on the starboard or right side of the -ship, looking towards the head, and our feet were towards the ship’s -side, on account of the fresh wind; in the night the wind changed, and -the ship laid over on the port side; between laughing and swearing, and -not without considerable difficulty, we changed our position.</p> - -<p>The next morning’s sun shone on many a pale and long face; the sea was -rough, the ship rolled and pitched fearfully, the effect was awful to -look upon. I have already stated that we had a number of Jews on board, -with few exceptions, from the lowest class;<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_012" id="page_012"></a>{12}</span> they were allowed by their -rabbins, at least so they avowed, to eat bacon during the voyage, and -most of them had so far availed themselves of the privilege, as, if not -to overload the stomach, at least to take in a very plentiful supply of -the beautiful sweet bacon that was served out to us. Punishment trod on -the heels of crime; there was not a corner of the ship unoccupied by a -sick Israelite with a tin basin, or one despairingly leaning over the -side and squaring accounts with Neptune.</p> - -<p>H., the doctor, and myself were quite well, and not a little did we quiz -the poor wretches, who were already sufficiently tormented. The -following day it rained hard; the confined space, with all these -sufferers, was almost insupportable—yet it was very disagreeable to get -wet through on deck—I was wretched.</p> - -<p>About noon on Sunday, some groups formed here and there; people began to -feel that it was a misery not to associate,—yet a sudden qualm would -often end a conversation begun in mirth. Some of the most resolute began -to creep on deck again, but often had to pay dearly for their temerity, -when a heavy sea broke over the ship, and wet to the skin all within its -course. I never before knew the real advantage of a cloak. In the -evening it cleared up, and I made my way forward amongst the crew to -listen to their songs and stories.</p> - -<p>On the following day the sea was heavier, and sickness at its height. I -was quite disgusted, and climbed up the rigging to the top to get rid of -it, and remained there till the cook’s magic word announced something -warm for the inner man, though very few of the passengers responded to -the call.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_013" id="page_013"></a>{13}</span></p> - -<p>I may as well take this opportunity to say something about the cooking -and manner of living. The kitchen is a small wooden house, well secured -by clamps to the deck, as a safeguard against the force of the seas that -break over the ship. It was divided into two parts; one for the cabin -passengers, the other for the steerage passengers and crew. The -provisions were good and plentiful. Coffee was served out every morning, -though, to be sure, one had to drink a great deal of water to get at the -coffee; but I had always been used to strong coffee, and future -experience in the back woods taught me that, when drunk scalding hot, it -requires a good palate to distinguish between strong and weak coffee.</p> - -<p>It was evening when we approached the French coast, which first appeared -as a bluish line, that grew larger and larger: before dark, we came near -enough to Calais to distinguish the steeple and houses. Looking over -towards England, we could see nothing beyond the two lights near Dover. -On the following morning, we were nearer to the coast of England, whose -majestic chalky cliffs were tinged rose-color by the morning sun. In the -evening we passed the Isle of Wight, and the wind changing, we did not -clear the Channel till the 27th May.</p> - -<p>We were now on the broad ocean; a number of fishing-boats enlivened the -prospect with their many-colored sails, sometimes white, sometimes -yellow, red, and even black. The sea was green, and the color especially -beautiful under the bows and stern; the picture was further animated by -a number of porpoises and albicores leaping from wave to wave. I saw<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_014" id="page_014"></a>{14}</span> -several strange substances floating on the sea, which I could not -observe more closely, for want of a net to catch them: I decided on -making one.</p> - -<p>All went well for several days; the weather improved, sea-sickness -disappeared, and the fair sex began to show themselves on deck. I had -made a net, fastened it to a staff, and kept it in readiness for any -thing remarkable floating past; indeed, for me, every thing that floated -by was remarkable, or at least worth examination. I caught a number of -jelly-like creatures, which had the power of rising or sinking in the -water, and also that of motion; one kind being about five or six inches -long, and one and a half or two broad, hollow, and provided with a sort -of stomach marked by a dark spot, the only compact part of the animal. -If left on a dry board for a couple of hours, it resolved itself into -water, excepting the stomach and a slimy opaque mass with a very thin -fine skin. Sometimes we saw numbers of them linked together, and always -with the dark spot on one side. Some snails were caught resembling land -snails: their shells contained a blue liquid, which seemed adapted to -give a beautiful dye. I wrote a few lines with this dye to see how the -color lasted, and found that it did not change in the least. The most -beautiful of all this species is unquestionably the “Nautilus,” or, as -the English call it, “Portuguese man-of-war.” It can raise itself about -three inches above the surface, and steer its own course, but disappears -in a storm; numerous feelers of two, three, and four feet, serve to -provide nourishment. I caught one in my net, and happening to touch it -with the back of my hand, it made it smart<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_015" id="page_015"></a>{15}</span> as if stung by a nettle. At -night they give out a phosphoric light.</p> - -<p>Now we were flying along with a fair wind and fine weather to our new -home; the ocean had that deep transparent blue which almost enticed one -to leap into it, to sleep in peace within its depths. My contemplations -were interrupted by a sight that made the peaceful sleep rather -doubtful—the dorsal fin of a shark peering above the surface as the -ship glided by. The idea of coming between the triple row of teeth of -such a monster was any thing but poetical. My attention was soon drawn -to another object, to which we came nearer and nearer, lying dark on the -water: at first I thought it must be a rock, and asked the mate, but he -said there was no rock in that direction, and that it must be something -floating—and so it was; as we passed it, it turned out to be a wreck. -Nothing is more adapted to damp the spirits on board a ship than the -sudden appearance of such a “memento mori,” to remind one of that -journey which awaits us all, in which a wreck may be our starting-point, -and a shark the first station.</p> - -<p>On the 30th the wind was unfavorable, with a hollow sea; those good -people who had nothing to do, became, as usual, sea-sick; the others -managed better. Suddenly our messmate the doctor came with a pale and -alarmed countenance, to tell us that the smallpox had broken out on -board; a little girl had it very violently, and of a bad kind. The -carpenter had hastily to fit up a place used as a store-room for ropes; -she was removed thither, away from the other passengers, and the general -apprehension was somewhat allayed.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_016" id="page_016"></a>{16}</span></p> - -<p>While standing quietly on deck, I heard a tremendous uproar in the -steerage; men swearing, women screaming, children crying, made a chorus -enough to split one’s ears. I jumped down for fear of missing some fun, -and was greeted by the most comical sight: every one had taken refuge on -the highest sleeping places, on the tops of chests, boxes, or any other -elevations, to be clear of the floor, which was taken possession of by a -little white spaniel, which snarled, and snapped, and foamed at the -mouth. All cried out as I came down the ladder, “A mad dog! a mad dog!” -The poor beast seemed to me more sick than mad; it ran forward a couple -of paces, and got jammed between two chests, and before it could free -itself I had seized it by the back of the neck, while it snapped and -struggled in vain. I shall long remember the shrieks of the women, who -had mounted into the sleeping places, as I raised the dog, and thereby -brought it nearer to them than they thought consistent with their -safety. I kept fast hold of the poor thing, carried him up the ladder, -and threw him overboard. It was the only dog on board, and belonged to -poor William, who came in for the shower-bath of tar on board the -lighter. He took the affair very coolly, and said, “he was glad the -beast was gone, as he was always putting his paws into his food.” He and -his father had remained a long time on deck, and at last, when they had -descended, they did not meet with a very friendly reception from the old -lady, who was lying sick in her bed-place. -“William—you—and—your—father—are—very—stupid—to—leave—me—a—poor—sick—woman—all—a—lone—while—you—are—<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_017" id="page_017"></a>{17}</span>a—mu—sing—your—selves—on—deck.” -William defended himself earnestly in Low Dutch, and thoughtlessly -seating himself on his mother’s cap-box, the lid gave way under his -weight; his ears were well boxed in consequence.</p> - -<p>June 4th.—A calm, with the sea as smooth as a mirror, except -occasionally when a long swell disturbed the surface; the ship was -motionless. I felt a great inclination to bathe, but the captain had -forbidden it, on account of the sharks. Early in the morning, however, -H. and I sprang overboard before he was up, and felt as light as -feathers in the warm sea; I was much more fatigued than ever I had been -in river bathing, and I had swallowed no slight quantity of salt water.</p> - -<p>I went to sleep after dinner, and as I came on deck again about two -o’clock, I found dancing going on. The ship was not motionless, though -without headway; the swell made her roll heavily at times, and -occasionally a party of dancers, five or six couple, would be carried -from one side to the other, and thereafter, for a moment attempting to -maintain the perpendicular, yield at last to the laws of gravity, and -fall together in a heap. Towards dark, dancing ceased; a light breeze -sprang up at sunset, driving us gently before it, the sea looking still -more beautiful with its little light foam-crested waves. At night it -appeared to be sown with myriads of stars and sparks, particularly where -the ship dashed through the waters, throwing off the spray: it shone as -if a fire was under the water—every wave that broke against the bows, -gave light enough to exhibit the letters in a book. Although<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_018" id="page_018"></a>{18}</span> it was -against rules for steerage passengers to pass abaft the capstan, our -kind-hearted captain was not very strict in enforcing this order, and -for hours together I have watched the sparkling foam under the stern. -Once while so occupied I was startled by a rushing, snorting noise, and -looking up, saw the dark form of a grampus from about eighteen to twenty -feet in length, rushing through the flashing waters as if swimming in -liquid fire; he disappeared close under the stern.</p> - -<p>On the following day we fell in with another ship: on our hoisting our -Bremen colors, she showed an American ensign; we passed about fifty -yards from her. The captains exchanged their latitude and longitude, and -gave the name of the ports they came from and were bound to: her -destination was Oporto. A singular feeling is awakened by thus meeting -another ship on the immense ocean; to see another little world appear, -pass within hail, then diminish to a white point, and disappear, leaving -the poor emigrant more deserted than before on the waste of waters.</p> - -<p>On the 7th June, we were running eleven knots an hour; there was not -much sea, so that very few were sea-sick, and most had appeared on deck -and collected into picturesque groups,—here a couple playing cards, -there one with a prayer-book, a couple of girls knitting and reading -together, and some with wrinkled brows, strange contortions of the -mouth, and uncouth sounds, industriously studying, and endeavoring to -pronounce, English. These quiet pleasant days were named by us fine -<i>fricandeau</i> days, for the following reason. We could not eat all the -salt meat and bacon that was served out, so we mixed the remains, after -mincing it<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_019" id="page_019"></a>{19}</span> small, with bread crumbs and yolks of eggs, kneaded it -together, and fried it in butter; hence the name, for in bad weather we -could do nothing of the sort.</p> - -<p>With so much fine weather I began to fear that we should miss seeing a -storm, and so lose the real delight of a sea voyage; but on the 16th it -began to blow, the sea got heavier and heavier, the faces longer and -longer—and by midnight old Boreas was in full bluster, the ship dashing -nobly through the brilliantly illuminated sea. I was delighted with the -war of the elements, and leaning over the side, watched for hours the -raging storm and restless waves. I did not go to bed till morning, when -I took my mattress out of the berth, and laid it on the deck, as it was -impossible for five to sleep below.</p> - -<p>The next day’s sun lighted up a wild but glorious scene; immense dark -blue waves, with green ridges crested with foam, for a moment “towering -in pride of place,” then sinking to make room for others; a shoal of -large porpoises were leaping joyfully among the boisterous waves. -Sailors say that they can tell, by the course of these fish, the quarter -that the wind will blow from, only they are not agreed whether they go -against the wind or run before it;—merely a difference of diametrically -opposite directions. The gale was now so heavy that we were obliged to -lie to, with the helm lashed a-lee. In the midst of it we saw a ship -running before the wind; with very little sail: she was frequently -hidden by the intervening waves, shot quickly past, and was soon out of -sight.</p> - -<p>On the 19th, the weather moderated in the morning, but the gale came on -again with greater force towards<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_020" id="page_020"></a>{20}</span> the evening. The scene in the steerage -was piteous in the extreme; sea-sickness at its height.—H. and I -attempted to joke with some, who were seated on the deck, deadly pale, -with tin basins between their knees, patiently awaiting the dreaded -paroxysms. We put a slice of nice fat bacon into a plate, covered it -over, then went to the sufferers and asked them how they felt. Instead -of answering, they mournfully shook their heads. “Won’t you take -something?” asked H., with a kind voice; the very idea occasioned -disgust, and with wry faces they motioned us not to speak of it; not yet -satisfied, I uncovered the plate, and H., holding up the slice before -them, asked in the most amiable, sympathizing voice, “Perhaps you could -eat a little bit of bacon?” This was like a watchword; it worked like -magic, and we were glad to fly on deck, almost alarmed at the success of -our plans.</p> - -<p>At noon pease-soup was served out; I had taken a basinful down below, a -proceeding which required no little skill, and leaning against the -sleeping-place had almost finished it, when H. came cursing and swearing -down the ladder, and standing at the foot of it, showed us his coat, -telling us, fiery with rage, that one of the Oldenburghers had spilt all -his pease-soup over him. At this moment a tin dishful of the same came -flying down the hatchway, and emptied itself so completely over -ill-fated H. that his eyes were bunged up; nor was this all—the soup -was only the prologue to the play, for who should follow his soup, -head-foremost, but poor William, <i>in propriâ personâ</i>, who, but for -alighting on H.’s shoulders must have broken his neck. Both fell -together in the mess. It would<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_021" id="page_021"></a>{21}</span> be a vain attempt to describe H.’s rage; -had we not sprung to the rescue, poor William would have been strangled. -When the gale moderated, more sail was made, but the sea ran high, and -through the wind being north-west, we could not lay our course; still -way was made, and that was a comfort.</p> - -<p>In the afternoon we saw another ship, and under Bremen colors. The -captains exchanged information through the speaking-trumpets; we -hastened towards the land of the stranger, while she was in full sail -towards home; with mournful thoughts, I watched the snowy sails, growing -less and less, until all traces of them were lost in the distant -horizon.</p> - -<p>Time began to hang heavy on our hands, our wished-for port still -distant, and the wind unfavorable; we approached the banks of -Newfoundland, whose southern points we were rounding under a thick fog. -Towards evening another ship was seen; then the fog came on thicker, so -that the bell was frequently struck, or a horn sounded, to prevent our -running foul of other vessels. Our captain was also anxious on account -of icebergs, which the other ship had spoken of, and the thermometer was -often dipped overboard, to try the temperature of the sea, as it falls -considerably on the approach of icebergs.</p> - -<p>The fog lay thick and damp, and the north-west wind blew very cold, so -that our cloaks came again into request. The smallpox did not seem -inclined to leave us, as one of the crew was now attacked, and confined -to the sick cabin. It was as cold as it is in Germany in December, and -if three fourths of the passengers had not been driven on deck by the -fumes of sulphur<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_022" id="page_022"></a>{22}</span> kindled in the steerage, they would not have ventured -out of the warm but foul air of their sleeping-places. It is surprising -that we had not more sickness on board, for pure air is one of the main -sources of health, and this was much wanted between decks.</p> - -<p>At night the wind changed in our favor, and it began to rain. I had -placed my mattress near the hatchway, and was wet through before I -awoke.</p> - -<p>The 4th of July approached,—the liberation-day of the Americans. The -captain said he should make it a holiday, and give us some punch, and we -decided on making preparations for it; a young man named Zellner, who -had already been in America, sketched the plan. First a transparency was -painted, with the American arms, the stripes and stars, and rising -eagle, with, as a motto, the names of the four heroes of the revolution, -Washington, La Fayette, Franklin, Kosciusko. It happened that one of the -passengers had some rockets and other fireworks, which he produced for -the occasion. At twelve at night, between the 3rd and 4th July, the -transparency was illuminated, and a song composed for the nonce, sung to -the tune of “God save the King.” The fireworks were let off, and the -rockets fired from our fowling-pieces. The lights were reflected from -the calm water. The captain now invited our party, and some other of the -steerage passengers into the cabin, where punch was handed round, while -the mate served it out on deck to the crew and the rest of the -passengers, pressing it particularly on the ladies. The consequences -soon became manifest. We had sat for about half an hour in the cabin, -laughing and drinking; but I took the precaution<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_023" id="page_023"></a>{23}</span> of drinking only one -glass, the punch appearing very strong, and much too sweet for my taste. -Observing that the eyes of the doctor and some others began to twinkle, -and that all were getting rather jovial, I rose, and the others -followed, and we came out on deck to see the fun, which every moment -became wilder and wilder. The sailors were aloft on the yards, letting -off squibs; the ship’s bell was being rung as if for fire, and rockets -and blank cartridges were fired out of every available musket. Zellner’s -double-barrelled gun burst, luckily without doing harm; but the -quarter-deck was the place where the “mirth and fun” was most “fast and -furious.” Ollman, an excellent violin player, had at first kindly -offered to play for the general amusement; but when the row got too wild -he withdrew, and another, burning with desire to show his skill, mounted -on the capstan, and began to wake such discordant sounds out of his -fiddle, that nothing but the general uproar prevented everybody’s teeth -from being set on edge; nevertheless they all waltzed away like mad, -caring nothing for the motion of the ship, which occasionally threw them -against the side in a confused heap. The man on the capstan continued -playing as if possessed, his face turned to the stem, and maintained his -place with great skill; and when the dancers were all thrown together by -the motion of the ship, he leant <i>towards</i> them, playing away louder and -louder, but without showing the slightest change of countenance. -William’s mother threw her arms round my neck, begging me to dance with -her; next to her stood an old ropemaker, who had been ill all the -voyage; he tried to stand on one leg, whistling his own tune, while -turning on his<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_024" id="page_024"></a>{24}</span> axis; the lanky tailor lay on his back, with his arms -and legs working like a telegraph; in short, of the 118 passengers, not -more than six were quite sober. To have a better view I got into the -long boat, and laughed till the tears came; but as one can have too much -of a good thing, as I was tired with laughing, and although I had drank -very little, yet felt some bad effects, I crept down to my bed. As I -afterwards learnt, the mate, with the intention of making everybody -drunk, had heated the rum, put very little water, and plenty of sugar. I -was up again by daylight, and helped many of the victims to their beds.</p> - -<p>None of the passengers excepting Vogel and H. showed themselves for a -long time, and when they did at last, what pale, dull faces -appeared—what hollow, heavy eyes—what universal complaints of headache -and wretchedness! William especially went about very chapfallen; in the -midst of the fun he had sat himself down, and remained in the cook’s -steep-tub, where the salt meat for the morrow was soaking.</p> - -<p>We had a great deal of lightning in the evening, and about eleven -o’clock the heaviest thunderstorm I had ever experienced broke over us. -Flash after flash of lightning, peal on peal of thunder throughout the -whole vault of heaven. I went aloft to help the sailors; one moment it -was as light as day, with the black threatening sky above and beneath -us, like a dark stripe, the noble ship rushing through the glowing -foam-covered ocean. It was sublime—such moments are never to be -forgotten. The breeze lasted till the 10th July, when it again fell -calm. The ship lay almost motionless, and as all had recovered, alike -from sea-sickness and from<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_025" id="page_025"></a>{25}</span> the effects of the punch, the greater number -of the passengers showed themselves on deck forming various groups. -About noon a shark came towards us, the first we had seen for some days; -he swam quietly round the ship, and then disappeared, notwithstanding -all the temptations we offered in the shape of large pieces of meat, but -which concealed an enormous hook. He was accompanied by two pilot-fish, -whose attachment to the shark is wonderful. These pilot-fish are from -twelve to fourteen inches long, with stripes of blue and white of about -a finger’s breadth across their back. I shot one, but could not pick it -up. The shark is sometimes accompanied by five or six of these fish; he -never attacks them, and they probably point out his prey; for though we -saw nothing more of the shark, it was most likely under the ship, as the -pilot-fish played about under the bowsprit, a certain sign that he was -not far off. We also saw a sword-fish of twelve or fourteen feet long.</p> - -<p>Several stormy petrels, or, as the English call them, “Mother Carey’s -chickens,” had followed us nearly all the voyage, and were now swimming -or flying about the ship; I shot one, and caught it in my net as it -floated past. They are about the size of swallows, and fly something -like them; they are web-footed, dive well, and have a large horny hole -in the beak.</p> - -<p>The breeze sprang up again next day, but so light, that the ship seemed -to be asleep,—fancy her in a night-cap and dressing-gown. Our dear -companions became day by day more insupportable; the liveliest, who were -always on deck, began to quarrel among themselves; the others merely -vegetated; they remained<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_026" id="page_026"></a>{26}</span> day and night in their sleeping-places, -without even taking the trouble to wash themselves; perhaps they were -afraid of taking too much water out of the sea, as the ship was near -sand-banks. We tried all sorts of amusements, such as reasonable -grown-up men would not be suspected of patronizing. Amongst others, we -played at soldiers; working men, shopkeepers, apothecaries, Jews, -Christians, sailors, old and young, all took part in it, with sticks, -brooms, harpoons, fish-grains, hunting knives, wind instruments (the -ship’s horn for fog-signals), flags, &c., just like little boys. The -whole play was carried out—rebellion, desertion (one of the Jews was -the deserter), court-martial, execution, and tocsin: the tocsin bell was -a shirt stretched over a hoop, and beaten with a broomstick. The best of -all was, that the doctor turned up his nose at us, and talked about our -being childish! Wasn’t he hooted?</p> - -<p>July 18th.—Running merrily with a fair wind, our hearts swelling with -fresh hopes. We collected the Oldenburghers on deck to sing a song, the -chorus of which was, “Peasants ride in coaches in America.” I thought -the good people might be in error as to coaches, and that wheelbarrows -would be nearer the mark. But what should we be without hope? We were -near the land. At early dawn I sprang out of a hammock I had -manufactured, for I could not sleep in the narrow berth, and mounted -aloft. Placid, just crisped by a light south-east wind, lay the sea, -deep, deep beneath me, dandling the noble ship, playing with her, -yielding before her, and then following with a slight splash. I gained -the highest point, clasped the mast with my left arm, and delightedly -breathed the pure morning<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_027" id="page_027"></a>{27}</span> air. The horizon became lighter and lighter, -the view clearer and clearer—the mist vanished—a hollow sound like -distant thunder broke on the listening ear! It was surf,—there lay the -land, and plainer and plainer as the light increased appeared a blue -stripe above the dark waves of the horizon. “Land!” cried I from the -mast head, and “land!” “land!” resounded from one to another between -decks. As ants run out of their nest when it is disturbed, so rushed the -half-wakened passengers up the hatchway, hastened to the bows, and -opening their blinking eyes as wide as they could, repeated “land!” -although I am convinced that it was not possible to see it from the -deck, as the day did not get any clearer, and only the highest points -were visible. Our lanky friend the tailor came up among the rest, -holding a plate of butter in one hand, a ship’s biscuit in the other; as -he heard the word “land!” repeated, he set his provisions on one of the -hen-coops, and ran with the others to look at the land. William, who -probably thought that there would be plenty of time to contemplate it, -sat himself quietly down on the hen-coop, and of course on the butter, -which had become rather soft after a night spent between decks; there he -sat, kicking his heels against the rails, his hands comfortably stowed -in his pockets, and whistling to express his content. The tailor -returning, naturally anxious about his week’s allowance of butter, which -he, confiding in the general honesty, had, in a manner, left exposed in -the highway, stood immovable with astonishment, with eyes and mouth wide -open, looking at this picture of innocence and self-satisfaction sitting -in his butter. William, unconscious of evil, and amused at the tailor<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_028" id="page_028"></a>{28}</span>’s -astonishment, put on a broad grin, which stopped his whistling, but he -kept up the time with his heels. At last the astounded tailor found his -tongue, and calling out, “Oh the wretch!” he sprang on the unprepared -William, pulled him across his knee, and pointing out the butter to the -bystanders, exclaimed in a sorrowful voice, “There, there it is!”</p> - -<p>As we came nearer to the long-desired land, we could distinguish woods, -fields, houses, farms, and single trees; a beautiful sight, but not to -be enjoyed long, for the captain not liking to approach too close, stood -off again, and in the evening it was hardly visible. Early on the 19th -we made all sail; about eleven a small vessel stood towards us under -American colors: we hoisted ours, and the pilot came on board. Now all -was fresh life among the passengers. So near the land, fresh water was -served out, and there was washing and splashing and smartening up going -on in every corner. Here a young Jewess adorned herself with earrings -containing false stones, there a man hastily washed a shirt; on one side -women combing and brushing children, there others, their toilet ended, -strutting about in their best;—and there lay the poor ropemaker face -downwards, across the capstan; he had but one pair of trowsers, which -the kind tailor was busily mending. The pilot, a fine-looking man, as -all these American pilots are, and dressed in the newest fashion, soon -carried us into the entrance of New York harbor, near Staten Island. -Where shall I find a pen that can paint what we saw, or describe our -feelings? The sight of this noble land, robed in the most beautiful -green, with luxuriant fields, fine houses, and here and there<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_029" id="page_029"></a>{29}</span> remains -of the original forests, forts on each side protecting the entrance, the -bright blue heavens above, and rustling waves beneath, melted my heart, -and made me long to be alone. I ran aloft, and looked with enchanted, -and, why should I deny it, with moistened eyes, on the beautiful country -which seemed opening her arms to receive us—and the question rose -unavoidably: “Why is not that my home, and why must I leave all my heart -holds dear to purchase such a sight?” The sailors, who came running up -the rigging like cats, disturbed my meditations. The anchor was dropped, -and the sails furled. A boat under a yellow flag came off from Staten -Island, to inquire after our healths. Luckily all our sick had -recovered, and all the party looked in good condition; so that the good -doctor, in spite of a pair of hexagonal spectacles, could not find a -trace of the late sickness, and left the ship with the words “All’s -well.” In the evening, H., the doctor, and I plunged overboard to bathe. -We were not allowed to leave the ship till the morrow, when a schooner -came to take us all with bag and baggage to a large square block house, -about a hundred yards from the shore, to undergo a short quarantine, and -to show whether our luggage contained any thing liable to duty, or -requiring washing. The customs’ examination was not severe, and nobody -had to pay; the dirty clothes were more strictly examined, and large -buckets were brought, that those who had neglected to wash their clothes -on the passage might do so now. As we quitted the “Constitution,” where -we had passed sixty-four days of mingled joy and sorrow, taking leave of -her crew was, to me at least, like taking leave of old friends, and as -the boat<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_030" id="page_030"></a>{30}</span> shoved off we gave them a loud cheer, which was answered by -the crew in English fashion with three hurrahs, preceded by “hip, hip, -hip.” This was not very well taken by our Jewish passengers, who could -not find “hip, hip, hip” in their dictionaries, and one of them remarked -that “he did not see why they should so laugh at us.”</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/p030i_sml.jpg" width="155" height="83" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_031" id="page_031"></a>{31}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_II" id="CHAPTER_II"></a>CHAPTER II.</h2> - -<p class="chead">NEW YORK TO BUFFALO.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Good advice to emigrants—Examination of the baggage—New -York—Schw—z’s boarding-house and its deficiencies—Aspect of the -city—Abundance of fruit—An Irishman’s funeral—Fire—Reports from -Illinois—The German reformed church—Extraordinary -scene—Soldiers—The Scotch and their national costume—Negroes—My -tobacco speculation—Unsuccessful shooting excursion—Departure for -Albany—Utica—An American breakfast—The canal-boat and its -arrangement—Collision—Crowded state of the boat, and consequent -discomfort—Lockport—Niagara—Hamilton—Visit to a -countryman—Excursion into the woods—Meeting with an Indian—Bear -hunt—Bivouac in the woods—Maize—Buffalo—The ‘William -Tell’—Village politicians.</p></div> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">Although</span> this blockhouse was called the Quarantine building, the -quarantine was not very strict; several of us got a boat to take us on -shore, and for the first time we stepped on the soil of a new world—for -us a truly beautiful and noble world, but still a new, and therefore a -strange one. Singular feelings came over me as I wandered under strange -trees, among the pale Americans, and sought some quiet spot where I -could indulge my thoughts; they were mournful, though at the same time -full of hope and confidence. It was late when I returned to my -companions, whom I found assembled round some bread and cheese and beer, -and well satisfied with their reception in their new country. While -sitting enjoying God’s good gifts, which we had<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_032" id="page_032"></a>{32}</span> been so long deprived -of, a stranger came into our room, but as he addressed us in German, we -were soon on a footing of old acquaintance; he was a baker, who had been -about thirty years in America, and had realized a handsome fortune; he -came with the praiseworthy intention of giving us good advice. The good -man might have saved his trouble, for, wise in our own conceits, like -all new comers, we knew better than he did. He had lived principally in -Pennsylvania, and, like all the people of that State, he addressed each -as “Thou.” He cautioned us against the Americans, telling us that they -would cheat us whenever they could; “but,” said he, “if you must trust -to any one, trust an American sooner than a German. It is a disgrace to -the Germans, but it is too true: beware of them, for they are much worse -towards their own countrymen than any others; because,” added he, -confidentially, “they are the simplest. When you land at New York, don’t -go into any of the low public-houses, near the landing-place—‘William -Tell’—and such like—they are all dens of thieves; and now if you -do—you have been warned,—it will be your own faults and you can’t -complain.” He continued for some time giving us advice on this subject, -and although, at that time, I made no exception to the general rule of -knowing better, disbelieving his calumnious warnings because they did -not agree with my preconceived fixed opinions, I found afterwards that -his words were unfortunately but too true.</p> - -<p>A second examination of the baggage exposed more dirt; sick of remaining -longer in disagreeable contact with it, we five took the steamer that -starts at nine o’clock for New York, making the passage of nine<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_033" id="page_033"></a>{33}</span> miles -in half an hour. There was too much to see, and too much that was quite -new, for the eye to dwell long enough on any one object to receive a -deep impression, and I hardly knew that the boat had started, when she -stopped at the landing-place, and the immense sea of houses of New York, -begirt by a forest of masts, lay before us.</p> - -<p>The steamer had hardly landed, when we were surrounded by a number of -car-drivers, offering to carry our luggage to our destined abode; we -chose two, which took all our things, and for which we had to pay -altogether one dollar—but they had a tolerable distance to go. Zellner, -who had already been in New York, recommended Schw—z’s boarding-house, -whither we all went. In all my life I never saw such a dirty -establishment as old Madame Schw—z’s: it makes me sick now to think of -it. Of course I did not remain much in the house, but for some days -lounged through the fine broad streets, admiring several handsome -buildings. I was much struck by the immense amount of shipping ranged -thickly side by side all round the town, and by the superfluity of -southern fruits; in every street were carts full of pine-apples, -oranges, cocoa-nuts, &c. The finest pines were to be had for from -sixpence to a shilling.</p> - -<p>I had wandered about for a couple of hours, and was about to return to -the boarding house, when turning the corner of a street I came upon one -of the most extraordinary cavalcades I ever saw. It was the funeral of a -poor Irishman, which I will briefly describe, as it is well worth it. -First came a hearse covered with dirty cloth that once had been black. -The driver was seated<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_034" id="page_034"></a>{34}</span> in front, by no means in a mourning attitude; his -left foot rested on his right knee, the left elbow on the left knee. He -was dressed in a shabby blue coat, a hat with the rim torn and hanging -down; his trowsers might have been white if they had been washed; his -left hand held an apple, which he was eating with the greatest -composure; the right held the whip, with which from time to time he -encouraged his horses; the reins were twisted round his left knee. The -hearse was followed by six luggage cars, each containing from ten to -twelve mourners, sitting back to back, with feet hanging down the sides, -men and women together, in clothes of all colors, eating, drinking, and -laughing: to say the least, it appeared to me a very original kind of -funeral.</p> - -<p>It was late when I arrived at the boarding-house, for when I turned -homewards I found so many things to attract my attention that the hours -flew rapidly by. All my companions were assembled, and we had much to -relate. As we were going to bed about twelve, there was a cry of “fire! -fire!” in the streets. I jumped up and looked out of the window,—the -sky above the opposite houses was deep red. As I was still dressed, and -none of the others would go, I ran down stairs, and hastened in the -direction of the fire; I hurried along one street after another, -following the reflection in the sky; yet it was three quarters of an -hour before I arrived at the fire. It was a small wooden building still -in flames, so I came in good time to see the engines worked. There were -several Germans among those who had hastened to the fire; I asked one of -them how far it was to my boarding-house, and learnt to my horror that -it was two miles off. He<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_035" id="page_035"></a>{35}</span> assured me that if I ran to every fire that -broke out in New York, I should have nothing else to do all night, as -there are seldom less than two in the twenty-four hours. His words were -confirmed by another alarm in a few hours; and during the three months -that I remained in New York, I remember very few nights passing without -an alarm of fire. The fire companies are excellent, and the most -respectable citizens are enrolled amongst the firemen; the engines are -handsome, and formed of brass and iron, often adorned with a pretty -vignette; they are drawn by the men. How different from our old -thunder-boxes, in Germany, where it takes half an hour to get the horses -ready.</p> - -<p>A week passed so quickly, I could hardly persuade myself that it was -more than two days. I became acquainted with several Germans. The dirt -of the boarding-house became insupportable. I had been introduced to a -German family by a mutual acquaintance from Brunswick, and they agreed -to let me board and lodge with them for three dollars a week, the -ordinary price, washing not included. Washing costs at the rate of four -cents a single piece.</p> - -<p>I had come to New York with the intention of proceeding to Vera Cruz, -but heard so many unfavorable reports of the state of Mexican affairs, -that I was at first undecided; and afterwards, as so many told me of the -disturbed and uncertain state of that country, and warned me, as a new -comer, against going there, I decided on taking a good look at the -United States before I visited other countries.</p> - -<p>My prospects here seemed to improve. A young farmer from Illinois, whom -I met in New York, said<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_036" id="page_036"></a>{36}</span> that it was not difficult to get a farm on -lease there—a lease in the American sense of the word, where the farmer -obtains a piece of cleared land, with the necessary buildings, for which -he gives the proprietor, who also finds most of the farming implements, -one third of the produce. At the same time, he assured me that two men -could easily manage sixty acres. But he suppressed the fact that these -two must be well acquainted with the American system of farming.</p> - -<p>All sorts of plans came under my consideration, without my coming to any -determination—and time slipped by.</p> - -<p>One Sunday morning I wished to go to church. An acquaintance offered to -accompany me. We went to the German reformed church. We were rather -late, and I was astonished at the excitement and disorder which -prevailed. I was soon to be still more surprised. The preacher, a -robust, powerful man, was very red in the face, spoke with great -vehemence and considerable ability. He paused every now and then to take -a drink. Suddenly, as the confusion was somewhat subsiding, and the -preacher was commenting on the text, a lady stood up, and began to speak -very loud. At first I could not understand what she wanted. With -surprise, I recognized her to be my landlady, and heard such words as -“shame—insufferable—insolence—men—turn out of the pulpit,” &c. As I -was reflecting on what this could mean, the disturbance broke out -afresh. “Down with him out of the pulpit!” “Kick him out!” “Cane him -well!” Such were the sounds that filled the church. The congregation -attempted to get the preacher out of the pulpit, but this was not so<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_037" id="page_037"></a>{37}</span> -easy as it appeared. The pulpit had a flight of steps on each side, with -a door fastening inside at the foot of each. The insurgents attempted to -storm the steps on the right, but their pastor proved to them that he -belonged to the church militant in the literal meaning of the word. He -made only two steps to the bottom, and gallantly defended the door. But -too many dogs are the death of the fox. The garrison was too weak. While -he defended one side, the other was left exposed. The insurgents made a -breach, stormed the left-hand steps, and took the garrison in the rear. -The preacher was dragged into the middle of the church, but managed to -slip out of the hands of his persecutors, and escaped into a corner, -when, putting himself into a regular boxing attitude, he called out with -an oath—“Come on, all of you.” These words were not mere bravado; for -now that his rear was secure, he kept them all at bay. I had watched the -whole affair, standing on one of the benches. It was not a fair fight; -for while those in front kept out of reach of his fists, those in the -rear kept striking him on the head with umbrellas. At last, making a -desperate sally, he succeeded in escaping. This was all that the -congregation desired, and several talked of “fetching the other -preacher;” but their minds were too excited, and so they separated. On -coming home, I learnt the cause of this uproar from my landlady. The -congregation had dismissed this hard-fisted preacher, and elected -another, who was to have preached to-day for the first time; but they -had reckoned without their host, for the ex-pastor was up at daybreak, -and having his own key, had gone into the church, and taken possession<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_038" id="page_038"></a>{38}</span> -of the pulpit, where he sat patiently awaiting the turn of events. The -other preacher came in with the congregation, and being a quiet, -peaceable man, he retired; and the former, in spite of threats and -abuse, began the service, and would have carried his point, if my -heroine had not lighted the match which set them all in a blaze. Some -years afterwards I learnt that the same sort of disturbance had occurred -several times in that church.</p> - -<p>I was surprised at seeing no soldiers in New York, except now and then a -couple or so of military-looking men, with blue jackets and trowsers, -and glazed caps. These are Uncle Sam’s soldiers, who devote themselves -to their country for eight dollars a month. They are generally men who -dislike hard work, yet cannot gain a living in any other way. They -enlist for five years. There are besides bodies of militia, German as -well as American battalions, who turn out on grand occasions, and are -well dressed. A short time ago some of the Scots had a meeting, and got -up a battalion in highland costume, the different clans in their proper -tartan, with plaids, bonnets, feathers, targets, claymores, bagpipes, -and the chiefs with eagle’s feathers. Thus they marched through the -greater part of the town. The next day, the “New York Herald” made -severe remarks upon people having a claim to respectability marching -through the town with naked legs, having music into the bargain, to -attract everybody’s attention.</p> - -<p>A great number of emigrants arrived about this time, and filled all the -taverns. I discovered that the Americans did not seem to care so much -about foreigners as I had imagined; and to my great vexation,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_039" id="page_039"></a>{39}</span> I saw -that Germans and Irish were thought little more of than negroes. Of -course there are honorable exceptions, for the educated Americans know -how to make a distinction; yet, at that time, it is very possible that I -may have been misinformed.</p> - -<p>It is disagreeable to the feelings of the newly arrived European to -behold the treatment of the unfortunate negroes; for though New York is -not a slave state they are considered no better than cattle. Yet they -enjoy a number of privileges, which they lately obtained through the -kindness of General Jackson. At the same time, they are not allowed to -enter an omnibus, nor to sit anywhere but in the gallery of the theatre. -They must keep to their own churches, and cannot be sworn as witnesses -against the whites.</p> - -<p>After a few weeks’ residence in New York, my landlord asked me to try a -speculation with him, in order, as he said, to get rich in a short time. -He proposed to open a cigar shop. I had no inclination for it at first, -having been so often warned against the Germans, but so many people -spoke well of him, and said he was so much esteemed, that I began to -think he must be an exception. I embarked all the money I possessed in -this business. My partner obtained some, but upon credit; and in a short -time a cigar shop was opened by the firm, in Broadway, the most -frequented street of New York. It seemed a miracle how well I had -managed my affairs. Hardly a month had I been in America, and already I -carried on a business of my own! It was well that this dream lasted only -a short time, or I should have lost everything.</p> - -<p>I began now to Americanize myself. I was no longer<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_040" id="page_040"></a>{40}</span> surprised when I saw -a fat mulatto woman walking along the street with a pipe in her mouth, -or a lady handsomely dressed, and in the newest fashion, but without -stockings; just as little did I marvel to see a well-dressed gentleman, -in a black frockcoat, and black trousers, gold watch, chain, &c., going -to market with a basket under his arm; and I hardly looked round if I -saw a New Englander riding from market, in bad weather, at full gallop, -with very short stirrups, a basket of vegetables hanging to his left -arm, while his right hand grasped an outspread umbrella. In fact, a man -may accustom himself to any thing.</p> - -<p>I now resolved on making a shooting excursion, and as Zellner had -described the banks of the Hudson as so very beautiful, we started one -fine morning with our guns, by one of the numerous steamers, and ran up -to our shooting grounds, a distance of twenty-two miles, for sixpence. -The voyage alone was worth ten times the money, on account of the beauty -of the scenery. The Hudson is certainly the loveliest river I ever saw, -with its smooth majestic stream, its high steep cliffs, clothed with the -brightest green, with dwelling-houses and villages wherever space will -allow, and thousands of vessels of all descriptions giving such life to -the whole, as fills one with wonder and delight. As we started late, it -was dark when we arrived at our landing-place. We were up at daybreak -next morning, and set off to search the woods and fields, eager to spill -blood. Weary and exhausted with climbing over the number of fences and -hedges, leaping over fallen or half-decayed trees, wading through -morasses and mounting hills, we arrived in the evening at the house of a -cousin of Zellner<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_041" id="page_041"></a>{41}</span>’s without having seen a feather or any thing else in -the shape of game. Our host received us hospitably, told us that we did -not understand how to find game in America, and promised he would -accompany us on the morrow. Our hopes revived again; we were ready by -break of day, inhaling the sweet morning air and determined upon -slaughter, and doubting whether our game bags would hold all that we -meant to kill. It was yesterday’s fortune repeated. Here we skirted a -wood, there a fence, here we waded a marsh, and there pushed through a -thicket; from daybreak to noon, not a shot had been fired. By the time -we arrived on the banks of the river, and saw a steamer running down -stream, Z. and I had had enough of it, and were rejoiced to see the -steamer answer our signals and stop to take us on board. Hungry and -tired, without having seen a single head of American game, we returned -to New York. After this excursion, I was in no hurry to try another. I -had had enough for once, and attended assiduously to my business; taking -pains at the same time to learn English, for although I had made some -progress in Germany, it sounded like so much Chaldaic or Chinese, till -my ear became accustomed to it; then the foundation that I had formerly -laid helped me to acquire it quickly.</p> - -<p>I remained some weeks longer in the town, otherwise I must have -intrusted all that I possessed to the integrity of strangers, and an -inward misgiving warned me against so doing. At the same time, I began -to reflect that I was fast bound in the town, and could not get out into -the open country; and this feeling became every day more painful and -vexatious. It struck me<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_042" id="page_042"></a>{42}</span> that this was not exactly the object for which -I had left all that was dear in my native land, and often while brooding -over my late step, it seemed a wild, oppressive dream. It seemed as if I -could not be in the long desired land of freedom, so many thousands of -miles from my loved country, and that I might awake at any moment and -thank God that it was only a frightful delusion. It was however a -reality, and I decided on breaking my fetters. I soon arranged with my -partner; with the exception of a small sum down for travelling expenses, -he was to keep the rest in the business till the end of March, and then -repay the bare sum I had at first invested.</p> - -<p>I left my two chests containing clothes and books in the care of H., and -taking some clean linen and a double-barrelled gun, I started for the -wide world, according to my heart’s desire. Whither, I neither knew nor -cared, except that I wished in the first place to see the Falls of -Niagara, and then to follow wherever fate might send me. I was free, -once more free, and felt my heart swell with the feeling of -independence. I no longer envied the birds of passage, whose flight -towards the south my eyes had lately so mournfully followed. I was as -free as they were, and no less inclined to use my unbound pinions.</p> - -<p>At five in the evening of the 24th Oct., the new steamer “Diamond” left -New York for Albany. I stood on her deck inhaling with delight the pure -balsamic air, viewing with enchanted eyes the glorious scenery.</p> - -<p>My costume seemed probably rather eccentric to some of the stiff -Americans, who kept staring with<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_043" id="page_043"></a>{43}</span> curiosity at the foreigner who was -leaning on his gun, and thinking little about them, lost in admiration -of the wonderfully beautiful landscape that extends along the shores of -the Hudson. Though my costume was nothing extraordinary, yet the tight -leather trousers, high waterproof boots, short green shooting jacket, -green cap, and open shirt collar, might have appeared so to them. The -beautiful double-barrelled gun attracted many eyes, as well as the -double-edged hunting-knife that hung on the left side. The German game -bag, the powder-horn, shot belt,—all, in short, was different to their -fashion.</p> - -<p>The night was cold and damp, and as on the following morning the sun -broke through the thick clouds, his rays were reflected from the -steeples of Albany; a pretty little town, and though I stayed too short -a time to be able to judge, I believe it is likely to become a handsome -city. I left that morning by the train for Utica. It was the first time -that I had travelled by a railroad, and cutting the air with the speed -of an arrow made an indescribably agreeable impression on me. A drunken -man next to me told me long stories, in the still strange English, with -a comically mournful expression of countenance, and afforded me much -amusement. We arrived at Utica during the night. In the street I found -some men with a carriage, and inquired of them when the canal boat left; -they pointed to the carriage, one of them taking me by the arm; but I, -remembering former warnings, set my foot against the door, and asked -about the fare: “Nothing to pay, nothing to pay,” said they, and at one -step I was seated in the carriage, which soon<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_044" id="page_044"></a>{44}</span> stopped before a very -grand house. I did not feel quite comfortable under all this -hospitality, for every light in the large building seemed to call out to -me, “Money is the principal thing, therefore get money,” which sentence -I recollect having to translate at Dr. Flügel’s, at Leipzig. I walked -in, however, and inquired for the first boat going to Buffalo; meantime -be it said, my misgiving was not altogether unwarranted, for I had to -pay fifty cents, about 2<i>s.</i> 2<i>d.</i>, for a cup of tea with bread and -butter. The price of the boat was six dollars, table included, which -seemed too dear, and a German Jew who was present took my part and made -an agreement for me for four dollars. It was very cold when I went on -board the canal boat a short time before its departure, and I found the -warm cabin very agreeable.</p> - -<p>The morning broke dull and rainy, and the breakfast-bell roused us too -soon from our beds. An American breakfast is something astonishing to a -newly arrived German. He beholds in surprise coffee, pork, pickled -gherkins, potatoes, turnips, eggs, bread, butter, and cheese, all on the -table at once; but as soon as the stomach has become accustomed to this -strange assemblage, I must honestly acknowledge that it suits a hungry -Christian man much better than dry bread and weak coffee.</p> - -<p>After breakfast I had plenty of time to notice the company with whom I -shared the narrow space of a cabin in a canal boat. There were ten -gentlemen and three ladies; these latter had a cabin to themselves, -separated from the other by a red curtain; over the entrance was the -inscription, “Ladies’ Cabin,” with<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_045" id="page_045"></a>{45}</span> the friendly reminder of “No -Admittance.” The ladies consisted of two old, and one not young. One -young man, certainly the greatest lout I met with in America, deeply -buried in a coat of his father’s, whose skirts nearly swept the ground, -almost hiding his too scanty trowsers, and a hat so large that he was -obliged to keep shoving it up from his face, played the gallant to them. -These canal boats are very long and narrow, decked over, and rising -about six feet above the water; ours was fitted up for the comfort, or -rather discomfort of the passengers. They are well provided with -windows, hold a number of people, and go very slowly; ours in -particular, drawn by two very quiet horses, seemed to traverse the -landscape at a snail’s pace. The canal is crossed by numerous low -bridges, often only a few inches above the deck, and one must be -constantly on the look-out not to be swept overboard, a disaster I once -happened to witness. Sometimes it is necessary to lie quite flat, a -precaution which also has its dangers, and on one occasion caused a -dreadful misfortune, when a passenger, by a boat that had very little -cargo, was horribly crushed to death between the boat and the bridge.</p> - -<p>On a sudden we stopped with a tremendous crash. Everybody jumped up to -see what had happened; our boat was jammed with another in a narrow part -of the canal, directly under a bridge; and as ours was the stoutest, she -had broken some of the other’s ribs. We remained as immovably fixed as -if we had been built in; all attempts to drag the boat backwards were in -vain, because the horses, knee deep in mud, would not pull together. At -last, in a fit of compassion, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_046" id="page_046"></a>{46}</span> trusting to my waterproof boots, I -jumped out, seized the large whip, and giving the horses a few sharp -cuts, I made them understand that they could if they would. And they -did, but in doing so one of them lashed out behind, in the thickest of -the red mud, so that I was splashed all over with it, and looked more -like a trout than a human being. I crept back, resolving next time not -to be quite so obliging.</p> - -<p>At length the captain came round for the fare; I quietly handed out my -four dollars, and was not a little astounded to learn that an agreement -made with a stranger at Utica was not binding on the captain, and that I -must pay my six dollars like the rest—a bit of experience not too dear -at two dollars.</p> - -<p>So far we had been very comfortable, having had plenty of room; but now -we took in fifteen more passengers, all for Buffalo. While daylight -lasted all went on well enough, but in the evening I really could not -divine where all the people would be stowed; yet with the live cargo of -the Bremen lighter fresh in my memory, I considered nothing impossible. -The sleeping-places in the canal boats consist of long four-cornered -frames, which in the evening are hung up along the cabin; and now that -the number of passengers had so much increased, we had to be packed in -layers. The frames are covered with coarse strong canvas, on which a -small mattress was laid; at least all the passengers who came from Utica -had that accommodation, but now, on account of the number of new -arrivals, that luxury had to be dispensed with. I scrambled into my -swinging bed, having first examined the fastenings, leaving the -lately-arrived passengers playing at cards.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_047" id="page_047"></a>{47}</span></p> - -<p>I awoke in the night with a dreadful feeling of suffocation; cold -perspiration stood on my forehead, and I could hardly draw my breath; -there was a weight like lead on my stomach and chest. I attempted to cry -out—in vain; I lay almost without consciousness. At last I became quite -awake, and remembered where I was, and in what circumstances I was -placed. The weight remained immovable; above me was a noise like distant -thunder: it was my companion of the upper story, who lay snoring over my -head; and that the weight which pressed on my chest was caused by his -body no longer remained a doubtful point. I endeavored to move the -Colossus—impossible. I tried to push, to cry out—in vain. He lay like -a rock on my chest, and seemed to have no more feeling. As all my -attempts to awaken him were ineffectual, I bethought me of my breastpin, -which luckily I had not taken out of my cravat the night before; with -great difficulty I succeeded in moving my arm and reaching the pin, -which I pressed with a firm hand into the mass above me. There was a -sudden movement, which procured me momentary relief; but the movement -soon subsided, the weight was growing heavier and more insupportable, -and to prevent being utterly crushed, I was obliged to reapply the pin. -“What’s that?” “Murder!” “Help!” cried a deep bass voice above me. -Feeling myself free, I slipped like an eel from under the weight, and -saw, by the dim light reflected from a lamp hanging under the deck, a -sight of no common occurrence. A stout heavy man, who slept in the upper -frame without a mattress, was too much for the well-worn canvas;<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_048" id="page_048"></a>{48}</span> during -his sleep it had given way under the weightiest part of his form, which -descended till it found support on my chest. The thrust of my breastpin -had caused him to make an effort to move, which gave me that opportunity -of making my escape I so gladly seized. As he returned to his former -position with greater force and weight, from the exertions he had made, -the support being gone, the canvas split still wider, and, more than -half asleep, he was sitting on my bed, while his head and feet remained -in his own. He soon began to call out, “Help!” “Murder!” Everybody -started up to see what was the matter, and to laugh heartily at the -extraordinary attitude of this stout gentleman.</p> - -<p>In the morning we arrived at Lockport, where the canal has a fall of -sixty feet, with two sets of locks, one for boats ascending, and the -other for those descending: a noble work for so young a country. Here I -left the boat for the purpose of seeing the Falls of Niagara, towards -which I took the nearest road. It was about two in the afternoon when I -arrived at this most colossal wonder of all the rivers of the earth. I -abstain from any attempt to represent it; inadequate drawings, and -thousands of descriptions, are to be found in all parts of the world; I -will not add to the number. It was so surprisingly grand that I could -only gaze in admiration, and worship God.</p> - -<p>My heart still full of this glorious scene, I avoided the little town of -Manchester, lying close to the falls, and followed the first path that -led into the country, partly for the sake of shooting, and partly to -find a house to sleep in. It became darker and darker, and the mud -seemed to be getting deeper and deeper, when<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_049" id="page_049"></a>{49}</span> I espied a light, which -acted as a guiding star through the darkness. It shone from the quiet -friendly dwelling of a Pennsylvanian smith, who had settled in the state -of New York, and who, with benevolent hospitality, fed the hungry, and -prepared a warm bed for the tired. I learned from him, and from other -farmers, that Canada was a fine country, that the forests there were -full of game, but that sportsmen were often hard beset by bears and -wolves.</p> - -<p>I took but little time to consider my route, and on the 1st November, a -steamer from Lewiston, a small town on the Niagara river, carried me -over to Toronto, where I remained the night, and started next morning by -another steamer for Hamilton.</p> - -<p>Hamilton is a pretty little town on Lake Ontario in Canada, and although -only a short distance from the frontier of the United States, a great -difference is perceptible as well in general appearance as in trifles. -Most of the settlers in Canada consist of English, Scots, or Irish, who -all keep to their national habits. I twisted my ankle at Hamilton, which -laid me under the disagreeable necessity of remaining there till the -morning of Saturday the 4th, when, recovered and joyful, I again sallied -for the woods, pitying the poor people who were obliged to live in -towns. From Hamilton I proceeded to Dundas, also on the Ontario, and -from thence took a northerly direction towards Preston, turning aside, -two miles short of the town, to visit New Hope, where dwelt, as I was -told, an old German sportsman. I arrived safe and sound at New Hope on -Sunday afternoon, and inquired for the abode of the old German, which I -reached about dusk. He was not at<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_050" id="page_050"></a>{50}</span> home, but some half-dozen children of -all ages and sizes, stared with their bright clear eyes at the stranger -and his outlandish costume. The father and mother were gone to church; -and the eldest daughter, a girl of about fifteen or sixteen, was -teaching the little ones, some to read and others to spell, from an old -well-thumbed catechism. I sat myself quietly in the corner to await the -return of the parents, and listen to the tattle of the children.</p> - -<p>At length the two heads of the family arrived, to the great joy of the -little ones, who ran to meet them. The man presented so striking a -likeness to one of my friends in Germany, that, in my astonishment, I -hardly answered his friendly “Good evening.” After they had laid aside -their church-going clothes, and made themselves comfortable, we sat -ourselves near the stove, which in Canada often takes the place of the -open fireplace, so hurtful to the eyes. The conversation turned mostly -on farming and shooting. He seemed thoroughly to understand the first, -and to be passionately fond of the latter. He was just the man for me. -He spoke of the former abundance of game, which was fast disappearing -through the increasing population, and he complained of the number of -bunglers who infested the woods, frightening the game, and crippling the -poor deer. He said he was very successful in turkey shooting, which is -still the same sport as described by Cooper in his “Pioneer.”</p> - -<p>When the night was far advanced, my host showed me to a sleeping place -under the roof, where there was no want of fresh air—but I slept like a -top. He had told me of a lake, not many miles off, where there<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_051" id="page_051"></a>{51}</span> would -most likely be immense flocks of wild duck; so I was off at daylight in -search of some. My new acquaintance had pointed out the direction in -which I should find the lake; a path was out of the question, but I -thought that I should be able to find it without looking at my compass, -and stepped out boldly; but the wood was so thick and there were so many -fallen trees, some lying one over the other, that the sun stood high, -when, taking the compass out of my pocket, and by its help, making a -straight course, I arrived at the lake. I saw plenty of wild-fowl, but -perhaps frightened by others, they kept in the middle, very few -venturing near the banks. This was out of my reckoning, but as the lake -did not seem very large, I resolved on going round it. I had killed -three ducks one after the other, and in my eagerness had forgotten how -the hours flew by, till I suddenly observed that the sun was fast -approaching the west. I now saw that it was not possible to pass round -the lake before sunset, for as I came to the clearings, I perceived that -as yet I had not gone half the way. Thick masses of cloud were gathering -in the N. W., and the wind began to rustle and moan through the trees. I -expected to be obliged to bivouac here, and slightly appeased my hunger -with a bit of dry bread that I found in my pocket, for I had not had -time to roast one of the ducks. The weather threatened worse and worse; -in no pleasant humor I was walking slowly along the shore, when I found -a canoe, made of a hollowed trunk, fastened to the root of a tree. I -stepped in without the least compunction, and paddled to the opposite -shore, distant about two miles and a half, directing my<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_052" id="page_052"></a>{52}</span> course by a -large dead tree. The wind blew hard, and the waves tossed the rude -awkward craft to such a degree that I was obliged to exert all my -strength and skill to keep her even and to force her ahead. In the mean -time it began to snow, so that I was soon as white as a miller, and had -great difficulty in keeping my eye fixed on the dead tree, and thus -preserving a direct course. At last I landed, secured the canoe, and -looked out for a path towards some habitation. Before it became quite -dark I had discovered a path, which being wet, the snow melted on it as -it fell, leaving a dark line along the white ground.</p> - -<p>Suddenly I heard a noise as if a whole herd of buffaloes were breaking -through the forest, and almost before I could look round, a dark-colored -horse passed at full speed, uttering a very remarkable scream of agony. -A rider sat on his back, who looked behind him in the greatest alarm. I -had hardly caught sight of them, as they passed so rapidly, when another -horse, without a rider, rushed snorting after them. So sudden was it, -that I should have taken it for a dream, if the footmarks in the snow -had not convinced me of the reality. I did not long indulge in useless -meditation on the cause of this nocturnal flight through the forest in -mist and snow, and soon I was happy enough to find a wheel-track. After -about an hour and a half’s walk, I saw a light in the distance, and in a -short time knocked at the door of a small farm-house. A voice called out -in German—“Who’s there?” It fell like balsam on all my organs, but more -particularly on my stomach. The door was opened by the wife of a German -wheelwright, whose<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_053" id="page_053"></a>{53}</span> husband had ridden into a village some miles off, -and whose return was expected every moment. The warm stove restored my -benumbed limbs to fresh life, which a cup of hot coffee served to -heighten. The husband, a good-natured German, came back in the course of -an hour. He had arrived in the country three years ago, without a -farthing, and now he had a nice little house, a portion of land, and -plenty of work. We went to bed about ten o’clock. It snowed heavily all -night, so, in the hopes of good sport, I started early, and, as my host -would not accept money, I left him the ducks I had killed yesterday. -Loading my left barrel with buck-shot, and fixing fresh caps, I hastened -out of the hot room, and inhaled in long draughts the fresh morning air.</p> - -<p>After an hour’s march, and shooting nothing more than a pheasant and a -rabbit, I was startled by seeing a man approach unlike any I had ever -seen before. I soon found that he was a civilized Indian. He was dressed -in a short woollen frock, blue cloth trowsers, with broad seams, -mocassins on his feet, glass earrings in his ears, and on his head a red -woollen shawl, wound like a turban, under which sparkled his dark fiery -eyes, while his black straight hair hung over his temples. He carried -the long American rifle, and had altogether a bold and romantic -appearance. His Indian belt, ornamented with beads, held a tomahawk; and -his powder-horn and shot-belt hung on his right side. After a short and -friendly greeting, we attempted to converse,—but that was no easy -matter, he speaking broken English, while I was, as yet, only partially -acquainted with that language. On my asking him if<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_054" id="page_054"></a>{54}</span> he had seen any -game, he pointed to the ground before him, showing the fresh trail of a -bear in the snow, which I had not observed, as my attention had been -drawn to him. He made signs for me to go with him, and I need hardly say -that I followed him with a heart beating with joy and excitement. We may -have gone about five miles, through marsh, moor, and bush, over hill and -valley, and hundreds of fallen trees, constantly following the trail, -when my silent comrade came to a halt, and pointing to a thick coppice, -said,—“I believe we find him.” My excitement was now at its height; but -the Indian directed me quietly to take my stand by a tree, while he went -round the coppice to see if the trail was continued on the other side. I -had in the mean time dropped a ball over the swan-shot, and eagerly -watched every motion of the bush. It opened suddenly about fifty paces -from me, and the bear, a dark brown fellow, walked out to seek his -safety in flight. In an instant my ball with the swan-shot, was in his -skin, and immediately after that the barrel of buck-shot. Perhaps -surprised by the report of the gun, perhaps smarting from the buck-shot, -Bruin stood for a moment snuffing the air, and then ran furiously -towards me. A ball from the Indian’s rifle stopped his attempt to -revenge himself, and stretched him dead upon the earth. The Indian cut -down a young straight tree with his tomahawk, and having ripped open and -cleaned out the bear, we bound his paws together, and, as he was not -very large, slung him to the tree, and carried him to Preston, which was -not very far off. We arrived in the evening, and my Indian friend sold -the bear for four dollars.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_055" id="page_055"></a>{55}</span> He would probably remain in Preston till he -had spent it all in drink, and then take to the woods again for more -game.</p> - -<p>I began to find the climate too cold for me, and several Germans had -told me that here it was much colder in winter than in our own country. -I had no fancy for that, so turned south towards Lake Ontario, in order -to get on to Buffalo. I shot a pheasant which gave me a delicate meal, -and had hardly left the fire to recommence my march, when I saw seven -wolves standing at a distance of about seventy yards. Without a moment’s -consideration, I dropped lightly down in the snow to load one barrel -with ball, fearing that I should not do much with No. 4 shot; but when I -got up again the wolves had taken their leave. As they had fled towards -the S. E., I thought of following, to try and get one or two of their -scalps (government gives six dollars for a wolf’s scalp), but as the sun -was getting low, and looked very red, I gave up the chase. I had seen -several deer in the course of the day, but could not get a shot at them, -and my stomach began to complain considerably. An American would have -helped himself by shooting squirrels, of which there were plenty, but I -hadn’t the heart to eat one of these happy little creatures. Luckily I -shot a hare, and had now the comfort of being able to appease my hunger. -It was out of the question to think of finding a house for the night, as -I was no longer in a track, but in the thick of the forest, and so, -before it became quite dark, I collected as much dry wood as I could, -cleared away the snow from under a fallen tree, and lighted a fire -beneath it, which soon blazed up merrily. When I<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_056" id="page_056"></a>{56}</span> had got comfortably -warm, I set to work on my hare. I opened it, cleaned it out with snow as -well as I could, and stuck it on a piece of wood before the fire, -placing a piece of bark under it to catch the dripping, with which I -basted it. I felt very much the want of salt and bread, but hunger is a -good sauce. With the exception of the two legs, which I reserved for -breakfast, I devoured the whole. When I had finished, I heaped more wood -on the fire, and prepared to pass my first night in the open air in -America. I laid my game-bag under my head, pulled my cap well over my -ears, and with my feet to the fire was soon asleep. I slept soundly till -the sharp morning air awoke me. The fire had burned out, and I was quite -benumbed by the frost, and shook so that I could hardly light the fire -again. At last I succeeded, and gradually thawed. The rising sun found -me deep in consideration of my two legs of hare, which I looked at so -long that at length I could see only the bones. After thus taking care -of myself, I resumed my march southwards with fresh vigor, and about ten -o’clock the crowing of a cock denoted that I was not very far from a -human habitation. I hastened forward, and was soon saluted by the -barking of dogs. The proprietor was in the forest, cutting wood for a -fence. His wife, a pretty little American woman, treated me hospitably -with bread and milk, and assured me that I was not above twenty miles -from the Buffalo road, and that I should find plenty of farm-houses as I -went south. She would not on any account accept payment for my -refreshment, and so, with hearty thanks, and working my way through a -legion of dogs, I sallied joyfully forth,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_057" id="page_057"></a>{57}</span> making the Canadian woods -resound with German songs.</p> - -<p>On the following morning I reached the Buffalo road, lined on both sides -with farms, and on which a sort of stage-coach runs. I was now again in -the cultivated part of the country. Wheat is grown in large quantities, -and answers very well, as do oats and barley; Indian corn does not -attain the degree of perfection in which it is found further south. The -ears were small, and most of those I saw had yellow grain.</p> - -<p>About thirty miles from the town, I overtook a cattle dealer from the -United States, who was on his road back. He seemed a good sort of -fellow, and I resolved to travel the thirty miles in his company. We -soon became acquainted. He had two enormously fat oxen, which he had -bought in Canada, and a dreadfully thin horse, on which he kindly -invited me to take turns to ride, as he would willingly walk a little.</p> - -<p>A light but penetrating rain was falling, and the ride would not have -been disagreeable, though the road had become slippery; only the good -man was constantly offering the horse, while I was riding, to every -person he met, and would have been glad to exchange it for a couple of -cows. When tired, he mounted again, and I walked. He carried a book in -his pocket containing a deeply affecting tragedy, and as soon as he was -firmly fixed in the saddle, he invariably took it out, and began to -declaim, holding the book in his left hand, and gesticulating vehemently -with his right, in which he brandished his long cattle whip. Whenever -the more interesting parts of the tragedy occasioned an extra forcible -movement of the right arm, and with it of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_058" id="page_058"></a>{58}</span> whip so formidable to the -oxen, an implement on which they kept a constant watch, they started on -one side or ran back, and only the prosaic “Quiet there! Gently!” &c., -&c., uttered in a pathetic tone, brought back the horned audience to -their duty.</p> - -<p>On the evening of the 11th of November, I came a second time to the -Falls of Niagara, and could now admire their grandeur and majesty from -the Canadian side. From thence a beautiful road runs along the Niagara -river to Lake Erie. The road itself is good and dry; on the left the -glorious wide river, shaded with trees of the original dark forest, on -the right a succession of prosperous farms, with excellent orchards; -altogether a most enchanting prospect. The whole distance appeared -scarcely more than a few paces. A few miles from Buffalo I crossed a -ferry worked by horses in a large perpendicular wheel, and was now in -the United States again. What I saw of Canada, showed me that it is, at -least this part of it, a beautiful and fertile country, with a healthy, -though very cold climate, too cold to suit me. It produces excellent -corn, but except in the thickly inhabited parts, sheep and pigs do not -succeed on account of the numerous wolves. Many Canadian farmers assured -me that the bite of a wolf was like that of a venomous reptile to these -animals, and that however slightly they may have been bitten, they are -sure to die. But perhaps these deaths may have been caused by the bites -of rabid wolves.</p> - -<p>It was Sunday afternoon when I stepped into the public room of the -“William Tell,” in Buffalo, and seated myself in a corner to rest. The -eyes of several respectable German operatives, who were all in hot<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_059" id="page_059"></a>{59}</span> -political debate, were at first attracted with astonishment towards the -armed stranger, but soon following up their dispute they forgot all -listeners, and I think it might very likely have come to more than -words, if the host, a little fat figure, had not rolled himself in -amongst them, and restored peace with the conciliatory words: “You are -all as foolish as so many stockfish.” In these words, the equality of -persons was proclaimed, and their feelings were pacified. It was, -however, no trifle that formed the subject of their dispute; for an -honest shoemaker would by no means allow that the English could send any -troops over, on account of the disturbances in Canada, because the -Russian was sitting across their necks. A cabinet-maker, seated opposite -to him, maintained that Russia was too far off from England to be able -to make war so quickly; but the shoemaker proved to him so clearly that -Russia was close to England on the north, and that there was only a -broad strip of land between the two Principalities, that the astonished -cabinet-maker was silenced by the overwhelming amount of solid learning; -the shoemaker admitted that the march from Russia to England was -difficult, as the soldiers had sometimes to wade up to their shoulders -in sand. Whence the good man had obtained his idea of a march through -sand, and his geographical knowledge, is more than I can say, but the -debate was amusing enough; and when the shoemaker appealed to me for my -opinion, I agreed with him of course, but told him that the Russians -intended to lay down bear-skins on the sand to make the march easier, -upon which he exclaimed, in astonishment, “What desperate fellows!”<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_060" id="page_060"></a>{60}</span></p> - -<p>I was up early on the following morning in order to see the town; it is -a very pretty place, and contains many Germans; it must become, and in -fact is already, the central point of all the interior commerce of the -north, for railroads, canals, steamers, and sailing vessels rival each -other in bringing and taking away produce.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/p060i_sml.jpg" width="188" height="89" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_061" id="page_061"></a>{61}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_III" id="CHAPTER_III"></a>CHAPTER III.</h2> - -<p class="chead">OHIO—INDIANA—ILLINOIS—MISSOURI.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Lake Erie—Cleveland—Double-beds—March through the -forest—Canton—Cincinnati—Lawrencebourg—A burning -forest—Deserted farm-house—Wet weather and swollen rivers—A -drunken companion—Versailles—Intrepid German -Jews—Vincennes—Fording a river—The prairies of -Illinois—Shooting deer—Salem—An Illinois -settler—Lebanon—Ague—Passage of the Mississippi—St. -Louis—German emigrants—A week’s work in the forest—Lead mines of -Missouri—Courant river, the boundary of Missouri.</p></div> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">About</span> noon the steamer “North America” left for Cleveland, in Ohio -State, and with it my worthy self. There was such a number of passengers -in the steerage, that it was hardly possible to move, and the state of -affairs was made worse by each of the American ladies<a name="FNanchor_B_2" id="FNanchor_B_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_B_2" class="fnanchor">[B]</a> having a short -pipe in her mouth. Yet worse was coming. Lake Erie, under the influence -of a strong breeze, began to get very rough in its treatment of the -boat; one pipe after another was extinguished, and the visages -lengthened and whitened very suspiciously. I observed this change with -horror, and took<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_062" id="page_062"></a>{62}</span> refuge in one of the uppermost of three rows of -sleeping berths, to be out of range of shot.</p> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_B_2" id="Footnote_B_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_B_2"><span class="label">[B]</span></a> Two Englishmen travelling together in America, on board a -steamer, one of them was thus accosted: “I am the gentleman that cleans -the shoes, and that man (pointing to the other) says, you are to -pay.”—<span class="smcap">Translator.</span></p></div> - -<p>It was dark when we arrived at Cleveland, and I stood on the shore in -some difficulty, not knowing exactly where to look for shelter, when a -young German, who, by the light of a lantern, recognized me by my -costume for a fellow countryman, asked me if I would like to pass the -night in a German house: on my quickly agreeing to it, he led me to one, -some hundred yards off, where I soon went to bed. The beds in America -are all double, that is to say, so wide as easily to hold three, and -indeed I have sometimes made a fourth. I was shown into this abode of -dreams by a little hump-backed youth, and on my asking if I could sleep -alone there, he replied that perhaps some stranger might come by the -stage-coach. Towards midnight I was disturbed by a noise, and thought to -myself “Oh, oh, here comes the stranger;” and as I was not yet -accustomed to this American fashion, I took the trouble to look up to -see what my bedfellow was like, and had the felicity to see that a negro -as black as pitch was preparing his ebony members to occupy part of my -bed. I moved to the extreme edge, leaving at least two-thirds of the -space to this son of the night. I was at this time but little acquainted -with American habits, and if this had happened to me later, the landlord -would not have had a whole bone in his skin; for it is the greatest -insult to a white man in North America, and more particularly in the -slave states, to place a negro on equal terms with him.</p> - -<p>I was up before day, and, according to custom, went out to have a look -at the town. From Cleveland I<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_063" id="page_063"></a>{63}</span> set off along the canal that goes to -Portsmouth, on the river Ohio, intending to visit my fellow passenger by -the “Constitution,” the apothecary Vogel, at the village of Canton. I -shot several wild-fowl and a few hares as I went along, and found a bed -at a New Englander’s, who gave me a hospitable reception. I was much -amused by a little German maid, who had only lately left her home, and -understood very little English, but as she spoke Low German, they -managed to make out what each party wanted; they had a great regard for -her, as she was very industrious.</p> - -<p>It was the 17th of November when I arrived at the agreeable little town -of Canton, situated in the middle of the forest. Some of the buildings -were in very good taste. My friend was not here, and I learned that he -lived in Cincinnati; so I decided on seeking him there, and, having -nothing to detain me in Canton, I set off again the same evening.</p> - -<p>Ohio is very extensively cultivated, and the journey through such a -succession of fields was rather monotonous; there was a farm-house to be -seen nearly every half hour, yet here and there was a pretty bit of -forest, as I found rather too soon. About a hundred miles from -Cincinnati I was overtaken one evening by a heavy penetrating rain, and -was soon wet through and through. I was anxious to find shelter, and was -travelling a well-frequented road, when all at once it divided into -three; I chose the most beaten, and pushed on through mud and mire, till -I came to a wood, where all further traces of a road vanished, leaving -me cold and wet in the forest. A fire was out of the question. I was not -inclined to return, as the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_064" id="page_064"></a>{64}</span> other roads might also lead to the forest; -so I made my way through the shrubs and bushes, which could not make me -more wet than I was already. I sank down from fatigue at times, but, -after a few moments’ rest, roused myself to fresh efforts. At length, -like a port to a ship in a storm, I saw a light through the branches. I -hastened, as fast as my tired legs would carry me, in that direction, -and soon came to a fence, and shortly afterwards to a farm-house. The -farmer looked at first rather shyly at the dripping wet traveller, who -requested entrance so late in the night; but the customary hospitality -did not let him hesitate long, and a warm fire, with a quickly prepared -supper, considerably refreshed my stiff and weary limbs.</p> - -<p>I arrived at Cincinnati, the largest town in Ohio, on the river of that -name, on the 26th of November, without further adventures, and found my -friend the apothecary quite well; the hearty pleasure he expressed on -seeing me was ample reward for the trouble I had taken to find him, and -I passed some happy days in his society. I was much pleased with the -fine town of Cincinnati, the “Queen of the West,” as the Americans call -it. It is the centre of commerce of the West, and owes its rapid rise -and prosperity to its connection by steamers and railroads with the -seaports on the east coast, by canal with Lake Erie and the St. -Lawrence, and by the Ohio and Mississippi with New Orleans. From -Cincinnati I made short shooting excursions into Kentucky, though with -little success, obtaining at most a few hares, and some of the small -American partridges, with now and then a wild duck.</p> - -<p>On the 6th of December I bid adieu to the agreeable<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_065" id="page_065"></a>{65}</span> town of Cincinnati, -and on the same evening arrived at the border of the State, formed by -the little river Miami: I slept there, and crossed over into Indiana on -the following morning. Two miles further I reached the little town of -Lawrencebourg, on the Ohio, and inquired the nearest way to St. Louis; a -question which no one could answer, as they said they never knew of any -one travelling hundreds of miles on foot, when they could go so easily -by the steamers. At last, with much trouble, I learnt something of the -direction, and set off on the journey. I got a good dinner at a farmer’s -in return for a hare I had shot, and passed the night in a solitary -house with some very worthy people.</p> - -<p>The 8th of December was a fine day for a walk, and the evening was mild -and agreeable. I was walking on at a good pace, when a farmer told me as -I passed his house that I should find a mill about six or seven miles -further on, where I could pass the night; the sun was already low in the -heavens. I was in the midst of a thick wood when it became dark, and no -mill to be seen; after some time it was somewhat lighter, and I had no -fear of losing my way; moreover, the temperature was very agreeable, and -in case of necessity, I should not have minded camping out, or sleeping -in the forest. At length I saw a light at some distance through the -trees, and the hopes of a warm bed and cup of hot coffee produced a good -effect upon my European system, as yet unweaned from these luxuries. As -I advanced, the lights became brighter and more numerous, and I did not -know what to think. Was it a town, or an Indian camp before<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_066" id="page_066"></a>{66}</span> me? To put -an end to the uncertainty I hurried on, particularly as my right road -lay in that direction, and soon I stood before a burning forest, blazing -up gloriously in the dark night, making the background still darker, and -giving a ghost-like appearance to the trees on the right and left. This -new scene was too wonderful and imposing for me to hurry past it; so I -sat down on one of the fallen scorched trunks to enjoy the awfully -sublime prospect. I may have remained sitting looking on for about half -an hour, when, about twenty paces from me, a blazing oak fell with a -heavy hollow sound, sending glowing charcoal, burning branches, and -thousands of sparks in all directions. This was rather too near to be -pleasant, so I turned to seek another road through the forest, which -appeared now so much darker than before, on account of the brilliant -light I had just been gazing on.</p> - -<p>There seemed to be no end to the forest, and I began to think that the -mill existed only in the good farmer’s imagination, when I heard a sound -of rushing water, and, later, the lowing of a cow. I turned off in the -direction of the sound, first taking the precaution to light a fire, -that I might retrace my steps in case I lost my way. About half a mile -brought me within sight of a dwelling; on coming nearer I discovered a -milldam, and several cows standing about the fence saluted the new comer -with a long-drawn friendly low. I joyfully shook the dust from my feet, -and knocked at the low door: all was as silent as the grave. I knocked -again—nothing moved—no voice called a welcome “come in.” After -knocking three times, I was accustomed<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_067" id="page_067"></a>{67}</span> to open the door; I pushed this -open in rather ill-humor, and found—a deserted house, with all as still -as death. The stars shone through a hole in the roof, the chimney had -fallen in. It causes a shudder to see a place deserted that you expect -to find occupied by an industrious family: I closed the door, and sprang -over the fence, leaving the building to its mournful solitude.</p> - -<p>The fire I had lighted was nearly burnt out, but I found it again, and -followed hastily my former path. After about another hour’s walk, I -heard the bark of a dog, and confiding with a joyful heart in this sure -sign of an approach to a human habitation, I stepped out quickly to the -long-sought mill. Dogs bayed, the wheel clattered, a bright light shone -through all the crevices of the loghouse, and everything showed that I -should soon find shelter for the night;—and in a few minutes I was -comfortably seated in the chimney corner.</p> - -<p>My host was a kindly, good-humored man, had lived some years in Indiana, -and was in good circumstances. After a delicious supper, he led me out -of the house, and said, “I will show you a little chap, such as you -never saw before in your life.” He kept his word. Under an inverted tub -was a gray animal, about the size of a cat, but thicker in the body, -with short legs, head and muzzle like a fox, or rather, more like a -colossal rat, with ugly finger-like claws, and a tail about a foot long, -devoid of hair. These creatures are constantly on the look-out for -fowls, and make great havoc amongst the farmers’ poultry. The Americans, -and sometimes the immigrant Germans, eat the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_068" id="page_068"></a>{68}</span> flesh and esteem it a -delicacy. The miller made no ceremony with his prisoner, and, after -killing it, he cut off its claws and tail, skinned it, washed it, and -prepared it for cooking, telling me it would serve for a delicate -breakfast; but I could not make up my mind to eat an animal looking so -much like a rat.</p> - -<p>It rained hard all night, giving me a sorry prospect for my next day’s -journey; nevertheless, I rose early, and took leave of the miller on -purpose to escape his “delicate breakfast.”</p> - -<p>The ground was soft and slippery, and it was not without reason that I -had feared the swelling of the mountain streams; yet, trusting in my -fortune, I went on in good spirits. About ten o’clock it began to rain -again pretty sharply, and about noon I came to a rapid, roaring mountain -stream, which rushed towards the Ohio, carrying some large trees along -with it. Here it was necessary to reflect on what was best to be done, -for though I could have swum across, it would have been extremely -disagreeable, as I had no change of clothing, and the water was -considerably colder than the air. After wandering for some miles up and -down the river in search of means to cross it, night came on, and I was -obliged to camp in the wood. After kindling a good fire, I went to -sleep, lulled by the sound of the water, but waking up now and then, -thinking I might receive a visit from some wild beast.</p> - -<p>On the following morning I was early on my legs, and examined the river. -Like all these mountain streams, it had risen rapidly, and fallen as -quickly, having considerably abated in the course of the night.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_069" id="page_069"></a>{69}</span> I had -already resolved on trying the passage, when I saw two horsemen coming -down the hill towards me. My difficulties were now at an end; one of -them took me up behind, and I was landed all dry on the other side.</p> - -<p>I kept on along the somewhat inclined road, sometimes slipping, -sometimes sinking deep in mud, abusing all American roads and American -weather, when, not very far from the little town of Versailles, I saw a -man with a rifle coming down the hill towards me. He did not seem to be -keeping a very steady course, and when we came nearer, I saw clearly -that I had not made a great mistake in supposing him to be very drunk. -When he came up to me, he winked with his glassy eyes, and shook me -heartily by the hand: so far so good: but when he caught sight of a -bottle I had slung by my side, he made a sudden grasp at it; however, I -was too quick for him, and, like a bear defending her cubs, I wrenched -it out of his hand, and then, with the most imperturbable look in the -world, I said “That is not for you,” and placed it in my pocket. He -yielded to his fate; but, seeing my double-barrelled gun, he wanted to -examine it closer, and to have a shot with it. By this time I had had -enough of it, and would not trust him, so I turned on my heel and -continued my journey. He called out “Stop!” I took no notice; again he -called out, “Stop!” and I distinctly heard him cock his rifle. I turned -instantly, taking my gun from my shoulder, but too late; his ball went -whistling just over my head, and the echo repeated the sharp crack of -his rifle. I now lost all patience, and snatching the whalebone ramrod -out<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_070" id="page_070"></a>{70}</span> of my gun, I ran after him, caught him by the collar, pulled him -down, and belabored him with the pliant ramrod, till only a few inches -of it were left, he roaring “Mur—der!” “Mur—der!” all the while with -might and main. I must acknowledge that I felt some satisfaction as I -left him lying smarting in the mud.</p> - -<p>Towards evening I passed through Versailles, where I procured a new -ramrod. What a piece of irony to call such a place Versailles! but it is -a custom of the Americans to give high-sounding names to their little -settlements. Already in the State of New York, I had passed through -Syracuse, Babylon, Rome, Venice, Alexandria, London, and Paris—villages -of seven or eight houses.</p> - -<p>I arrived about the 11th December at Friedmann’s farm. The proprietor -was a German in good circumstances in Indiana: his property, though not -large, was very productive, and his cattle were very fine. He was the -only German settler whom I fell in with in my march through Indiana, -although there are several in that state. The sound of my mother tongue -fell doubly sweet on my ear after so long a privation. I remained to -dinner, and then set off in good spirits, on a road which improved as I -advanced, towards Vincennes on the Wabash.</p> - -<p>Towards evening on the 12th, I came to a large, clean-looking house, and -when I went in to ask if I could have a bed, I found two German Jews -sitting comfortably by the fire, who looked at me with astonishment, -and, as it seemed to me, with displeasure. The host was an elderly man, -whose grandfather and grandmother had emigrated from Germany; he spoke<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_071" id="page_071"></a>{71}</span> -very good German, and was uncommonly friendly, and we chatted away -together the whole evening. The two Israelites had in the mean time been -whispering a great deal together; at length one of them brought his -chair nearer to mine, and began asking several questions, which I -readily answered; amongst others, if I should start early in the -morning, and which way I intended to go? why I carried a gun and hunting -knife? &c. It struck me that they were not very courageous, and I -resolved to have a joke with them: I first asked if they carried on a -good business? what sort of wares they had in their two large packs; if -they had any articles of gold? if they meant to leave early? which road -they intended to take? if they would have far to go through the forest, -before they came to another farm? The Jew anxiously parried all these -questions, while his companion sat by without speaking a word; but when -I asked if they had made much money, they both called out in a scream, -“We have got no money at all;” so that I was obliged to bite my lip to -prevent a burst of laughter.</p> - -<p>I was disturbed several times in the night by the squabbling of the -Israelites about the best place in their common bed. On waking up at -early dawn I saw that the birds were flown. When I descended to my host, -the two large packs and the two Jews had disappeared; on my inquiring -after them, he told me that they had started before daylight with as -little noise as possible. I laughed heartily, and told him the whole -history, which tickled him amazingly.</p> - -<p>The road from this house was at first pretty good, but it rained hard. -When I came to the flat country<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_072" id="page_072"></a>{72}</span> in the neighborhood of Vincennes it was -full of pools, and on arriving on the prairie, about a mile from that -town, the whole space between it and me was one sheet of water. Night -coming on, it would have been impossible for me to find my way but for -occasional lights in the town, towards which I directed my steps, -sometimes over my knees in water, and arrived about seven o’clock in -Vincennes, which had not much to boast of as to dryness. The night was -dark as pitch, as I groped my way along the unlighted streets in search -of quarters. A pair of lonely oxen standing in the street looked at me -pathetically, and lowed as I passed close by them. A short distance from -them I found the house I wanted: it belonged to a Pennsylvanian German, -who kept a tavern. I was soon in front of a warm refreshing fire, which, -in my present condition, was what I stood most in need of. As soon as I -was well warmed, I took a survey of the neighborhood. Around me was a -set of regular conventional faces, with American indifference stamped on -the countenances of all the company, who, having finished their meal, -were sitting round the fire, rocking in their chairs, and picking their -teeth. But amongst them I perceived fixed upon me the glances of a pair -of real German looking eyes. I addressed their owner, and found that I -had not been mistaken; he was a German smith and mason, and a very well -educated man for his station. We sat talking together by the fire till -late in the night. In the heat of conversation, he repeated some of his -own poetry, which I listened to patiently, in return for his kind -attempts to amuse me. He had been a long time in America, and had<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_073" id="page_073"></a>{73}</span> -suffered much, without gaining much experience, being one of those -good-natured souls, who are unwilling to take advantage of others, -though often imposed upon themselves.</p> - -<p>It rained in torrents during the night, but cleared up towards morning, -and began to freeze. On going down to the river I met some horsemen, who -had returned from the other side, and declared that it was not possible -to proceed; for not only was the water very deep, but the ice on the -surface was so thick, that it would have cut the horses in breaking -through it. For a moment I was undecided: I could not stay in Vincennes, -because my small supply of money would not admit of great outlay, and I -had yet a considerable distance to travel. I went down to the ferry, but -the ferrymen also strongly advised me to remain at Vincennes, as the -road was quite impassable: however I was obstinate, and crossed the -ferry.</p> - -<p>The ground was dry close to the river, but I was stopped by the water -further on. I persisted till noon, trying to find a passage, and upon a -tolerably empty stomach, for I had eaten little more for the last -twenty-four hours than a bit of bread and cheese. Yet I made no -progress, so I resolved to dash at it, and wade through the water to -some houses about two miles off, where the ferrymen had told me I should -find dry ground. At first it was only up to my knees, and my water-proof -boots kept me dry; but it soon became deeper and deeper. I was obliged -to fasten my gamebag on my shoulder, and wade along, sometimes up to the -waist, and sometimes up to the chest in the cold element, all the while -having to break the ice in front<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_074" id="page_074"></a>{74}</span> of me with the butt of my gun. It took -four hours to do the two miles, and only the conviction that I must -either break through the ice or drown, gave me force to carry out my -resolution. At length I reached a fence, and stepped on dry ground. I -endeavored to climb over in vain; my lower garments and limbs were -frozen too hard. I was obliged to pull down a part of it to make a -passage, and it was not till I had been more than an hour by the fire -that I was thawed enough to be able to move freely.</p> - -<p>The continuation of the road was dry, with one short exception; and the -next house that I came to was quite a harbor of refuge for this night, -as I was much in need of rest and refreshment.</p> - -<p>I now for the first time saw the wide prairies which extend through -Illinois, and present a dismal prospect in this cold season. The long -waving yellow grass gives a melancholy tint to the picture; the wide -spread straw-colored surface, fringed by a forest in the distant -horizon, depresses the spirits. The frost had set in again, so that at -least I could follow my route with dry feet, and at a good pace. The -first head of large game that I fell in with was a buck, making long -jumps through the high grass, and putting up large flocks of prairie -fowl, which flew to some distance before they settled. In the house -where I passed the night, I gave my gun a thorough cleaning, and put it -in good condition. On the following morning, about eight o’clock, I came -to the Fox river, where I found two houses. To my astonishment, this -also was a town, and called Waterton. A very pretty American woman, who -kept a sort of tavern, set bread and milk<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_075" id="page_075"></a>{75}</span> with wild honey before me. -She tried hard to persuade me to settle here, and, if possible, induce -other Germans to do so; but my water excursion was still too fresh in my -memory for me to take a fancy to the place, although it appeared to be a -land of milk and honey, for enormous herds of cattle were pasturing in -the prairies, and wild honey was very abundant.</p> - -<p>I was so refreshed by my meal, that I went on my way with the springing -step of a sedan-chairman. I had indulged in the agreeable idea of a dry -road, but found myself wofully deceived, for as the little Wabash had -overflowed its banks, I had about two miles to wade through water. The -road lay along rather high ground, and was clear of ice, but there was -plenty of it between the trees on the lower levels. As I approached the -end of the watery path, and could see dry land in front of me, I heard -something rustling through the water, and crashing the ice: I looked -round, and beheld five deer coming towards me with long bounds. I stood -quite still, awaiting their approach with a beating heart; a noble buck -and four does were passing about fifty paces from me. I aimed at the -leader; he made a spring into the air, and fell dead. I had some trouble -to bring my buck to land; for although the American deer are smaller -than the German red deer, yet the one I had shot weighed at least 140 -pounds. I cut him up, skinned him, lopped a branch from a tree, made a -bag of the skin with the hair outwards, put the two legs and back into -it, then hanging the rest on a tree for any new comer, I trudged away -with my burden for a couple of miles to the village of Maysville. Here I -sold my prize, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_076" id="page_076"></a>{76}</span> passed the night, starting on the following morning -across a twelve-mile prairie.</p> - -<p>A cutting north-wester blew from the great lakes, so that my quickest -pace hardly sufficed to keep me warm. After passing through a small -wood, and surmounting a hill, I came to another little town, called -Salem. On the 21st of December I had another prairie, twenty-two miles -wide, before me: though still very cold, it was good walking over the -hard frozen ground. In the evening I arrived at a farmhouse, where I -passed the night. Just as I came to the house, the farmer was leading -his horse by the bridle into the sitting-room, which I should have taken -for the stable, had I not seen smoke issuing from the chimney. Full of -curiosity, I followed my host into his little dwelling, and here the -riddle was explained. He had been hauling wood, and he had fastened his -horse to a log about eight feet long, to draw it into the house; then he -rolled it to the fire-place, which took up nearly one whole side of the -little block-house, and as he could not conveniently turn the horse on -account of tables, chairs, and beds, he had made an opening on the side -opposite the door, in order to lead him out again. I had shot several -prairie birds in the course of the day, and they afforded us a delicate -supper. They are very numerous in these wide plains, and I have seen -flocks of from 600 to 700 of them. They are about the size of our -domestic fowls, but with a longer neck, and have a tail like a -partridge; their color is an ashy gray. I shot only one gray prairie -wolf; they are much smaller than the black wolves, and very shy.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_077" id="page_077"></a>{77}</span></p> - -<p>On the 23rd of December I arrived at Lebanon, a little hamlet on a hill -about twenty miles from St. Louis. My thoughts turned involuntarily to -the gigantic cedars; the highest tree on this mountain of Lebanon was -the tavern sign-post. Next day I had a march of thirty-two miles: as the -usually soft ground was now frozen hard, the route was very rough, and -hurt my feet; yet I pushed on, and in the afternoon arrived in the -valley of the Mississippi, or, as they call it opposite St. Louis, the -“American bottom;” it is considered the most productive land in the -United States. The vegetable mould must be from fifty to sixty feet -deep; but it is low, and in consequence wet, and therefore unhealthy.</p> - -<p>During my progress through Illinois I heard constant complaints of ague, -particularly from the Germans; it is very prevalent all the summer, and -even in winter they are not always free from it. The pale countenances -of all, especially of the children, bore too strong evidence that the -complaint was well founded.</p> - -<p>At length, after sunset, I arrived on the eastern bank of the -Mississippi, and heard to my great vexation that the river was so full -of ice, that it was utterly impossible to get across. At any rate it was -not to be thought of for this evening, so that I was obliged to pass -another night in Illinois. Very tired with my long journey, I went early -to bed. I was awakened in the night by a fresh arrival, who threw -himself right upon me. I moved a little to one side, while he took up -the middle of the bed; I should have had room enough if the stranger had -not been very restless. Now as I did not like the idea of being -disturbed all the rest of the night, it was necessary to obtain peace in -some way or other;<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_078" id="page_078"></a>{78}</span> so, drawing myself up like a hedgehog, and planting -my shoulder against his side, and my feet against the wall, before he -could imagine what I was about, I sent him with a sudden jerk into the -middle of the room, and then coolly told him the conditions on which I -would let him come into bed again. As the night was too cold to admit of -his sleeping on the floor, he agreed to all I required, and remained -quiet for the rest of the night.</p> - -<p>I was up early the next morning, and heard that a boat was about to try -the passage. We started at nine o’clock, and were six in the boat—two -at each oar, one in the bows to shove away the ice, and one half dead -from fear. With indescribable trouble we succeeded in reaching the -middle of the stream, where the ice had become fixed round a small -island. If we had attempted to row round it we should have been carried -down too far below the town, so we had to get out, and drag the boat -over the rough blocks of ice, and launch her again on the other side; -often we were jammed between immense masses, so that I thought every -moment the boat must be crushed. About noon we gained the opposite -shore, and landed immediately below St. Louis. The difference of time -between Germany and St. Louis is about seven hours, so that while -families at home were enjoying their Christmas festivities around the -brilliantly lighted trees, I was toiling with difficulty through the -waves and large masses of floating ice of the Mississippi. The church -bells were ringing, as, on a bright clear day, I entered this city of a -foreign land. I expected to find letters and money from New York, but to -my no small astonishment I was disappointed.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_079" id="page_079"></a>{79}</span> There was now no chance of -any until I arrived at New Orleans; the question was, how was I to get -there? I had not money enough to pay my passage by a steamer, and none -of them would take me as one of the crew; so I resolved to trust to my -legs again. The sale of some game had brought a few dollars, with which -I paid my expenses here, and on the 31st December I set off again alone, -with not very cheering prospects for the commencement of the new year. -At night I lighted a fire, and laid myself under a tree, for I was not -in a humor to seek society; it was past midnight before I fell asleep. -Next morning’s sun brought fresh courage and fresh confidence. In going -southwards from St. Louis, the traveller has no little trouble to find -the right direction among the cross roads that traverse the country, and -I made so many mistakes that it took nearly five days to go fifty miles, -yet without having to pass another night in the forest, as I found a -farm-house every evening, whose owners gave me an hospitable reception.</p> - -<p>A great many Germans inhabit this part of the country, particularly -Suabians, living by agriculture, and, when not too far from the town, by -carrying and selling wood, as there is none in the immediate -neighborhood of St. Louis, except some small stunted oaks.</p> - -<p>My funds by this time had shrunk down to a single American dollar, whose -superscription, “E pluribus unum,” appeared a bitter sarcasm on my -present circumstances. The third day of my wanderings in Missouri broke -dull and moist through the mist; it began to rain, and the roads became -slippery. About noon I arrived at another cross road, and was -deliberating<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_080" id="page_080"></a>{80}</span> which to take, when I heard a cock crow not very far off. -The sound was music to my ears at such a moment. I took the path leading -towards it, and soon came to the fence of a little corn-field; upon the -fence sat a curious figure, swinging himself to and fro, and singing in -a low melodious voice some song unknown to me. As he heard my steps he -sprang from the fence, and a poor pale sickly lad stood before me. He -offered me his right hand with a smile, and with his left pushed away -the long lank wet hair from his eyes; he led me quietly to the door and -disappeared. His father, an old farmer, told me that I should find some -German settlements about eight or nine miles further on, and though it -was still raining, I resolved on continuing my journey, and reached the -block-houses of my countrymen before dark.</p> - -<p>The weather continuing bad, and I having but little money, I resolved to -accept work if I could find it. Three brothers living here, who seemed -good sort of people, were ready to employ me. We were to agree about the -wages after a week’s trial. The next day saw me sally forth early in the -morning, armed with a heavy hoe, to the unaccustomed work of rooting up -bushes. It made the muscles and sinews of my arms ache and swell, so it -happened very opportunely for me that the following day was the festival -of the Three Kings, and as the honest Germans do no work on that day, I -was very much obliged to the Three Kings for their appearance. But -though they would not work for themselves, we all went, according to the -custom here, to help build a house for a neighbor, who had lately -settled, and for which the logs were already cut and collected.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_081" id="page_081"></a>{81}</span></p> - -<p>The week passed by without further incident. I worked very hard, and it -seemed all the harder as it was the first time that I had to work -incessantly. As the brothers offered me no more than eight dollars a -month, I thought that I should find better pay in Little Rock, so took -the two dollars that I had earned, bade them all a hearty farewell, and -went on my way in good spirits.</p> - -<p>Next morning I came to the most important lead mines of Missouri, not -far from Farmington, a pretty little town. The lead was laid in great -heaps on both sides of the road, and as it looked very like silver, it -was capable of making a strong impression on any one who possessed a -slightly excitable imagination. As my bullets were getting scarce, I -took a couple of pounds from one of the heaps, in order to cast a few in -the next house that I stopped at. All these mines are private property, -and the workmen carry on their excavations when they please, wherever -they expect to find ore, and are paid according to the quantity they -procure; if they find none, they receive nothing, and many poor fellows -have worked for weeks in vain. Their labors are carried on in the -simplest manner. A workman, or generally two together, come and offer -themselves; a certain space is given, and while one digs, the other -clears out the shaft; sometimes they find a vein of pure lead, in which -case they are very well paid. The whole place is so full of holes, that -it is very dangerous to go about at night. The proprietors have erected -smelting furnaces on the ground between the shafts, where the ore is -cast into pigs, and then it is forwarded to the Mississippi.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_082" id="page_082"></a>{82}</span></p> - -<p>I passed the following night in the house of an American family. The -owner had a herd of remarkably fine cattle, as well as a fine breed of -horses. Soon after I was seated in the warm chimney corner, I heard the -gallop of a horse. It stopped at the house, the door opened, and in -stepped a very pretty girl, with her little riding-whip in her hand, and -her color heightened by the sharp ride; she was received by all with a -warm welcome, and seemed to be the betrothed of one of the young men, -near whom she sat, and began to joke.</p> - -<p>Passing through Frederickstown, I reached Currant river, the boundary of -Missouri, on the 22nd of January; the water was so clear, that although -it was about fifteen feet deep where I passed, the smallest objects -could be distinctly seen at the bottom.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/p082i_sml.jpg" width="88" height="85" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_083" id="page_083"></a>{83}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_IV" id="CHAPTER_IV"></a>CHAPTER IV.</h2> - -<p class="chead">ARKANSAS, AND “DOWN RIVER” TO NEW ORLEANS.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Wild turkeys—Spring river—Traces of earlier inhabitants of North -America—An eagle—Quack-doctors in Arkansas—My unsuccessful -hunting-dog—Little Red river—German and Polish settlers—Hilger -and Turoski—Encampment of Indians—Their love for ardent -spirits—Little Rock—Engagement as stoker on board the -“Fox”—Unhealthiness of the stoker’s avocations—Quarrel with the -captain, and conclusion of the engagement—Night in the woods—A -panther—Bear hunt—Great Red river—Slave plantations—Cruelty of -the overseers towards the negroes—Large herd of deer—Capture of a -panther—Dangerous encounter with a bear—Excursion with an Indian -tribe—Their mode of life—Canoe travelling—The Mississippi—New -Orleans—Its appearance, and unhealthy situation.</p></div> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">I was</span> now in Arkansas. Game seemed to abound. Flocks of wild turkeys -filled the forests as thick as partridges in Germany, and deer were -equally plentiful; in one day I saw several herds of ten or twelve head -each. On the 23rd I came to Spring river, so named from the crystalline -clearness of its waters. I had intended to continue my journey on the -following morning, but my talkative hostess, among other things, spoke -of her husband, an old Pennsylvanian, who understood German, and who -could give a great deal of information about Indian burial-places. The -chance of hearing any thing about the natives was a strong magnet to my -curiosity, so I decided to await<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_084" id="page_084"></a>{84}</span> his arrival, and, as I did not wish to -diminish unnecessarily my small stock of money, I assisted to gather in -the Indian corn, so as to earn my food. As my host arrived in the -evening, I had not long to wait. He informed me that there were a number -of sepulchral monuments on the banks of the Spring river, or in its -neighborhood, and spoke of gigantic bones and skeletons which had been -found there. When in Illinois, I had heard of such remains of a colossal -race of men, and among others of a human lower jaw, whose owner must -have been about nine feet high. He also said that he had found urns and -weapons in the graves; but he had none to show me, for these people have -no regard for any thing that does not offer some immediate prospect of -gain.</p> - -<p>On the banks of the neighboring White river, they had found bricks some -feet under the surface in several places, laid as if they had formed a -street or road, and my host, as well as several others, maintained that -there must have been a town there.</p> - -<p>There is a strong probability that, before the modern race of Indians, a -stronger and more civilized people must have inhabited North America, as -several ancient and magnificent buildings in Mexico also tend to prove. -If my host had had time to show me any of the mounds, I would have -devoted a day or two to their examination, but he was obliged to take -another journey on the following day, and I could not well await his -return. Perhaps some one else may find time to make excavations.</p> - -<p>On the following morning I set off again on my travels, and turned a -little out of my way to climb a<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_085" id="page_085"></a>{85}</span> rocky height, when an eagle suddenly -rose before me. I fired. For a minute or two he floated motionless in -the air, then, flapping his wings, he mounted higher and higher till I -could hardly distinguish him. I concluded that I must have missed him, -and was reloading, when he turned in the air, and fell dead to the -ground. He was a large bird, measuring seven feet from wing to wing. I -was pleased with my shot, as it was the first eagle I had killed. He was -of a dark-brown color, with white head and tail. In imitation of the -Indians, I ornamented my cap with one of his feathers.</p> - -<p>On the evening of the 27th of January, as I was occupied in breaking up -a deer that I had shot, a lad of about thirteen or fourteen, with a -fowling-piece on his shoulder, came to help me, and showed that he was -by no means an unskilled hand. We packed the two legs and the back in -the skin, and bore it between us to the abode of the youth, only a few -miles distant, where I decided on passing the night. I have met, in all -parts of America, with a number of very worthy, amiable people, as also -with some very bad characters: this is to be expected in a country with -such a mingled population; but here, in this solitude, I found a family -not to be surpassed in worth and amiable qualities in any part of the -world. An old man, with trembling hands, sat by the fire, and though -many winters had bleached his locks, his rosy cheeks showed that he was -still strong and hearty. Opposite sat a noble-looking matron, -considerably younger than her husband, but still of great age. By her -side was a young and pretty woman of the neighborhood, whose<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_086" id="page_086"></a>{86}</span> husband -had taken a journey to the north on business. Three stout, blooming -youths came in one after the other from shooting, bringing four wild -turkeys.</p> - -<p>I was already far enough advanced in English to be able to take part in -the conversation, the educated American being very indulgent to -foreigners in this respect. We sat talking together till about ten -o’clock. The young wife had just received a letter from her husband, -which she read through and through ten times over. She had been very -unfortunate in Arkansas. The doctors had killed three of her children, -and she herself was suffering from inflamed eyes through their -ignorance. The fact is, that there is no sufficient authority to control -their practice in these new States, and every quack who chooses may call -himself doctor. They prescribe calomel for every disorder, and decayed -teeth, inflamed eyes, spongy gums, and shattered health are the -universal consequences.</p> - -<p>My next night was passed at a Kentucky-man’s, who had settled here. He -had about a dozen dogs in his house, and he willingly made one over to -me, which, according to his account, was a capital dog for hunting wild -turkeys, running them to a tree, so that they could be more easily shot.</p> - -<p>Lounging along the road, I saw, at a good distance in front of me, a -buck quietly feeding right in the path, and, rather distrusting the good -education of my dog, I fastened him to a tree with my -pocket-handkerchief and the string of my powder-horn. The buck continued -feeding unsuspiciously, till I came within about eighty-five paces from -him, when, as I had the wind at<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_087" id="page_087"></a>{87}</span> my back, he scented my approach, and -bounded over a fallen tree to gain the thicket; my buck shot flew after -him, but I must have fired low, for at about 150 paces he began to limp -with his hind leg. By this time my dog must have thought that he had -played the mere spectator long enough, and having bitten through the -powder-horn string, he bounded after the deer with my handkerchief about -his neck, and neither deer, dog, nor handkerchief have I ever seen -since.</p> - -<p>About sunset I arrived at a house where I purposed to pass the night, -and had placed my hand on the fence to jump over, when I saw the -mistress of the house sitting before the door, occupied with her -children’s heads in a way that suppressed all inclination to speak on my -part. I turned away, resolving rather to pass the night in the forest -than with such a family; yet this alternative was unnecessary, for -before dark I reached the dwelling of a man who had fought under -Washington in the war of independence; of course he was very old, but he -moved about with considerable vigor.</p> - -<p>On the following evening I came to the Little Red river. It was growing -dark, but a man was still at work on the other side. I called to him, -asking where I could pass. He answered: “You see that house there?” By -his accent I knew that he was a German, and asked again, in good Saxon: -“What house?” He replied again, in a mixture of German and English, and -in a tone of vexation at having forgotten his pure mother tongue: “Go a -little way down the river, and you will find a canoe.” We were already -good friends, although divided by the river. I found the canoe,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_088" id="page_088"></a>{88}</span> paddled -over, and went to the nearest house, before which a number of people -were standing, and amongst them the owner, Von G., formerly an officer -in the army, now an industrious farmer, and zealous sportsman. He -possessed two slaves, and was well contented with his new condition. He -kindly offered me a bed in his house. In the evening the German came in, -whose acquaintance I had made on the banks of the river. He was a very -worthy, though rather an eccentric man. He must have been equally -pleased with me, for he insisted that I must not think of going away so -soon, but must come and pass some days with him in order to see the -country. Having nothing to hurry me, I willingly accepted his kind -invitation, and went on the following day to his house, where he made me -quite at home. He had a nice little wife, and five strong healthy -children.</p> - -<p>In the afternoon it began to rain. Travelling was not to be thought of; -even had I wished it, these kind people would not have let me go. We -chatted away till deep in the night, and it did me a world of good to be -able to converse again to my heart’s content in my mother tongue. My -host was a Rhenish Bavarian, named Hilger, a builder by trade, and by no -means uneducated.</p> - -<p>On the next day we had a visit from a neighbor, a man of about -thirty-five, with a short green shooting jacket, and a German rifle; but -his accent betrayed him to be no German. Hilger addressed him by the -name of Turoski. He was a Polish officer, who sought and found in -America security against the political persecutions that he would have -been exposed to in<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_089" id="page_089"></a>{89}</span> Europe. He was unmarried, and a little ten-year-old -daughter of Hilger’s minded his house. This child was often alone for -days and nights together in Turoski’s log-house, miles away from other -habitations; yet she cared nothing whether it was the storm or the -wolves that howled round the hut.</p> - -<p>After a short conversation, Turoski proposed that I should come and stay -with him. I passed some very agreeable days with these estimable men, -sometimes with one, sometimes with the other. To give my reader an idea -of the bachelor-life of an American backwoodsman, I will describe one of -the nights that I passed at Turoski’s. Hilger’s daughter had gone home -to visit her parents, who lived three miles off, and we two were alone. -The Pole’s dwelling was nothing but a simple rough log-house, without -any window, and all the chinks between the logs were left open, probably -to admit fresh air. Two beds, a table, a couple of chairs, one of them -with arms, some iron saucepans, three plates, two tin pots, one saucer, -several knives, and a coffee-mill, formed the whole of his furniture and -kitchen utensils. A smaller building near the house contained the store -of meat for the winter. There was a field of four or five acres close to -the house, and another about a quarter of a mile off on the river. He -had some good horses, a great many pigs, quantities of fowls, and -several milch cows.</p> - -<p>Being deeply interested in our conversation, we forgot to prepare any -supper, and it was not till the cold made itself felt that we went to -bed. It may have been about half-past twelve, when Turoski woke up, and -swore by all the saints, that he could lie no<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_090" id="page_090"></a>{90}</span> longer in bed for -ravenous hunger, and that he must have something to eat, even if it were -a piece of raw meat. I laughed, and told him to draw his hunger-belt -tighter, but he jumped up and gave me no more rest. We made up the fire, -which was nearly burnt out, and then held a council as to what we should -cook. We had shot nothing, the bread was all gone, and we had eaten our -last bit of pork for dinner. What was to be done? Turoski decided the -point. The Indian corn of last harvest was in a small building in a -field by the river; I was to go and fetch an armful, while he would -prepare something in the mean time. The night was dark as pitch; I was -often obliged to feel with my feet for the path like a blind man, that I -might not lose myself in the forest. When, in the course of half an -hour, I returned with the maize, Turoski had killed one of the fowls -that were roosting on a low tree, plunged it in hot water, and while he -cleaned it I fried the corn; then, while the fowl was being grilled, I -ground the corn in the coffee-mill, which by no means reduced it to the -consistence of flour. I moistened the grist with water, added a little -salt, made a cake of it about three-quarters of an inch thick, and set -it in a saucepan cover to bake. So far so good; but I wanted a couple of -eggs. There was a kind of shed attached to the house, in which leaves of -Indian corn, plucked green, and then dried, were kept as fodder, and -here the hens came to lay their eggs. Turoski crept in, and feeling -about, soon came to a nest with five, of which he brought away only two, -having broken the others in his hurry. Coffee was then made, and we had -a very<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_091" id="page_091"></a>{91}</span> good supper, or rather breakfast, for it was now past two -o’clock. But we were not yet to repose in safety; the monster log of -hickory, that we had laid on the hearth, flared up and set fire to the -chimney: Turoski mounted on the roof, while I handed him some buckets of -water, and the fire was soon extinguished. At last we got to sleep, and -remained so till the sun was high in the heavens.</p> - -<p>My unquiet spirit drove me forth again on the morning of the 7th of -February. I took a warm farewell of these kind people, and went in a -south-west direction through the forest, hoping soon to reach the high -road. The sun disappeared behind dark clouds, but thinking I was sure of -my way, I walked quickly on. Who could paint my astonishment at finding -myself, after two hours’ walking, in front of the very house I had -started from! This was vexatious, but I slipped off again into the -forest without being perceived, took out my compass, and made a straight -course.</p> - -<p>In the evening I shot a deer, but was obliged to leave the greater -portion of it, as it was too heavy to carry. Long after sunset on the -9th I arrived on the Arkansas river; the lights of Little Rock shone -from the opposite bank, but a strange fantastic scene presented itself -on this side of the river, on which I stared with astonishment. An -Indian tribe had pitched their tents close to the banks of the river. A -number of large crackling fires, formed of whole trunks of dry fallen -trees, which lay about in abundance, offering good shelter against the -wind; over the fires were kettles with large pieces of venison, bear, -squirrels, raccoons, opossums, wild-cats, and whatever else the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_092" id="page_092"></a>{92}</span> fortune -of the chase had given them. Here young men were occupied securing the -horses to some of the fallen trees, and supplying them with fodder; -there lay others, overcome by the firewater, singing their national -songs with a mournful and heavy tongue. I stood for a long time watching -the animated scene.</p> - -<p>A tall powerful Indian, decked out with glass beads and silver -ornaments, came staggering towards me, with an empty bottle in his left -hand and a handsome rifle in his right, and, holding them both towards -me, gave me to understand that he would give me the rifle if I would -fill his bottle. The dealers in spirituous liquors are subject to a -heavy fine if they sell any to soldiers, Indians, or negroes. The poor -Indians have fallen so low, and become so degraded by the base -speculations of the pale faces, that they will give all they most value, -to procure the body and soul-destroying spirits. Though I had but little -money left, only twelve cents, I declined the exchange; he turned -sorrowfully away, probably to offer the advantageous bargain to some one -else, in which case I thought it best to indulge the poor savage, and -save him his handsome rifle; I took the bottle out of his hand, filled -it, and gave it back to him. On my refusing to accept his rifle, he laid -hold of me, and dragged me almost forcibly to his fire, obliged me to -drink with him, to smoke out of his pipe, and eat a large slice of -venison, while his wife and three children sat in the tent staring with -surprise at the stranger. He then stood up, and in his harmonious -language related a long history to me and to some sons of the forest who -had assembled round us, and of which I did not understand a word. At -last as the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_093" id="page_093"></a>{93}</span> noise became annoying, I stole away quietly to seek a berth -for the night.</p> - -<p>When I came again to the ferry on the following morning, the encampment -was broken up, and the Indians had embarked on board a steamer, which -was to carry them further west. I crossed by the ferry, and had now no -longer any cause to be anxious about spending too much money, having -paid away my last twelve cents. Rarely has a traveller entered a strange -town with so light a purse. My situation in such a place was not at all -enviable. The soles of my boots had disappeared, and then the feet of my -stockings, so that latterly I had gone barefoot on the frozen ground. -Yet my self-confidence and courage did not fail me. My first object was -to find a house where I could pass the night, my second to get my boots -repaired: I found board and lodging at a German wheelwright’s, named -Spranger, for three dollars a week, and although with all my searching I -could not find three cents in my pockets, I agreed to the bargain, -giving my gun in pawn; then taking my hunting-knife I hastened to a -shoemaker’s, who asked two and a half dollars to re-sole my boots, and -accepted my knife as a pledge, lending me a pair of shoes to wear till -the boots should be finished. When this was all arranged, I looked about -for work, and took many a walk in vain.</p> - -<p>On the second day, having nothing else to do, I went with Spranger to -Von Seckendorf’s farm to saw down some trees that S. required for his -business. In Little Rock many had referred me to a Mr. Fisher, who was -well known among the Germans, and who at all events would give me work. -He had just finished a<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_094" id="page_094"></a>{94}</span> large frame house, and wanted to make some -addition to it. I went to every door in the building to seek some one -who could tell me where to find him, but all was as quiet as the grave. -I then went to a smaller building, and knocked. As no one answered, -after knocking three times, I pushed open the door, and entered. In one -corner of a miserable room I found an empty bedstead, with broken legs; -carpenter’s tools lay on the table and floor, and a coffin stood in -another corner. At the foot of the bed, on the bare earth, lay a man, -with his head on one of the broken legs of the bedstead; his right arm -was under his head, the left lay across his face, so that I could only -see the dark hair; the hands were spotted red and black, I thought from -the paint of the coffin. I asked him if he knew where Mr. Fisher was. He -gave no answer: I supposed him to be asleep, and he appeared to be ill. -I went out again quite quietly, and tried some other doors; but they -were all locked, and not a soul to be seen. I went back again to the -sleeper, and although I called loudly, and shook him by the shoulder, I -could get no answer, and came away much vexed. At length, after a great -deal of trouble, I found Mr. Fisher, and had my trouble for my pains, -for he had no work to give me. In the course of conversation, I inquired -about the man in the hut, and was told that he had died the day before -of smallpox: my blood ran cold at the words. The doctor had stated the -nature of his disease, and desired that nobody should go near him; and -as the man was poor, without a cent in the world, he had shut the door, -and never been near him again. The poor fellow had been left to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_095" id="page_095"></a>{95}</span> himself -for three days, without even a drink of water, and at last had died -miserably on the floor. Little Rock is a vile, detestable place in this -respect, and the boatmen on the Mississippi have good reason when they -sing—</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">“Little Rock in Arkansaw,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">The d——dest place I ever saw.”<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">Yet several Germans inhabit the town and neighborhood.</p> - -<p>As nothing in the way of work was to be found in the town, I went to the -river to try and get something to do on board a steamer. The steamers -“Fox” and “Harp” were moored side by side. I went first on board the -“Fox,” and was engaged as fireman, at thirty dollars a month. In an hour -the boat started. I was quite contented, and had no trouble with my -luggage. We ran down the Arkansas to its mouth, then up the Mississippi -to Memphis, and back again to Little Rock. The work of a fireman is as -hard as any in the world; though he has only four hours in the day and -four in the night to keep up the fires, yet the heat of the boilers, the -exposure to the cutting cold night air when in deep perspiration, the -quantity of brandy he drinks to prevent falling sick, the icy cold water -poured into the burning throat, must, sooner or later, destroy the -soundest and strongest constitution. How I, unaccustomed to such work, -managed to stand it, has often surprised me.</p> - -<p>In addition, there was the dangerous work of carrying wood, particularly -in dark and wet nights. One has to carry logs of four or five feet in -length, six or seven at a time, down a steep, slippery bank, sometimes<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_096" id="page_096"></a>{96}</span> -fifteen or twenty feet in height when the water is low, and then to -cross a narrow, tottering plank, frequently covered with ice, when a -single false step would precipitate the unfortunate fireman into the -rapid deep stream, an accident which indeed happened to me another time -in the Mississippi. It is altogether a miserable life, offering, -moreover, a prospect of being blown up, no uncommon misfortune, thanks -to the rashness of the American engineers.</p> - -<p>I carried on this work for some time, till the desertion of the cook at -Memphis caused a vacancy in that department. Just as the boat was about -to start, I offered myself for the place, and was accepted, although I -knew nothing more than how to boil a kettle; yet I very soon learned as -much as was necessary.</p> - -<p>When I returned to Little Rock I released my gun and hunting-knife. The -next voyage was to the mouth of the Arkansas and back. The rude coarse -life among the lowest class of people soon disgusted me, and, in -addition to this, I had incurred the enmity of the captain, who disliked -me, probably only because I was a German. Yet he could not do without -me; but as I could not find a substitute, I was obliged to make another -voyage, and this time up the river. I already had an idea how my service -would terminate, and having my game-bag packed, and my gun, -hunting-knife, and a tomahawk that I had purchased, all at hand, I was -prepared for any thing that might happen.</p> - -<p>Two days after our departure, the captain came down to me as I was in -the act of giving the remains of a meal to a poor old woman, who was on -her way to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_097" id="page_097"></a>{97}</span> join her children, but who had not wherewithal to pay her -passage. An old Pennsylvanian had informed me that the captain had been -abusing me. This, and the question, “Who gave me permission to give away -the provisions?” put me in a rage, and I asked him, rudely, in return, -“If he would rather that I should throw them overboard?” The “yes” was -hardly out of his mouth, when plate and food were floating in the -Arkansas. He gave vent to his rage by springing on me, and seizing me by -the breast; in return I sent him sprawling against the opposite side. He -was quickly up again, and snatching up a piece of broken hand-spike, -made a desperate blow at me, which I luckily avoided. My fury now knew -no bounds; I grasped his throat, and was dragging him to the side to -throw him overboard, when his cries brought the engineer and boatswain -to the rescue. One of them pulled the captain away by his legs, while -the other took me by the shoulders, and then both carried the captain, -whose head was bleeding severely, into the cabin. I was ordered to go -directly to the book-keeper, received my pay, the steamer stopped, I was -landed on the bank, the boat returned on board, and I found myself in -quite a new and extraordinary position.</p> - -<p>All around me was a solitary wilderness—the river behind me, the ground -frozen hard, and covered with a thin sheet of snow—a cold north wind -blowing through the leafless branches. I felt in my pocket for my fire -apparatus—it was all wet; not a single grain of powder in my -powder-horn, and only one barrel loaded. I thought it would never do to -discharge my gun for the sake of lighting a fire, and remain<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_098" id="page_098"></a>{98}</span> unarmed in -the wilderness. I cleared away the snow from under a tree, lay down, and -tried to sleep; but the wind was too sharp, the cold insupportable, and -I was afraid of being frozen. Driven to extremity, I discharged my gun -against the root of a tree, lighted a match by the burning wadding, -collected dry grass and wood, and in a minute or two had a glorious -fire.</p> - -<p>Although I heard the howls of several wolves, I did not mind them, but -enjoyed a sound sleep. Certainly, on the following morning, I trudged on -rather out of spirits, with no powder, and a very hungry stomach.</p> - -<p>I followed the direction of the river downwards, in hopes of finding a -house. After I had gone some distance, I saw an old, half-sunken canoe. -I baled out the water with my cap and found that she was still -serviceable. My former intentions of visiting Texas returned in full -force; I decided on crossing to the other side to look for a house, and -procure food and powder, and resolved then to strike off in a south-west -direction in search of the route to Texas.</p> - -<p>I had hardly gained the opposite bank when I discovered a large flock of -wild turkeys. I took aim, and pulled the trigger, forgetting that I had -not loaded: they took to the trees on my approach, and I suffered the -tortures of Tantalus at the sight; but there was no help for it, and I -was obliged to pass on. As it always happens in such cases, I saw -quantities of game this day.</p> - -<p>Cold and cloudy descended the night, bringing with it the dreaded north -wind; I was obliged to lie down<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_099" id="page_099"></a>{99}</span> without a fire. In order to avoid the -bears and panthers, I had climbed up a tree, but the wind was too sharp -to make such an airy perch endurable. At length I found a hollow tree, -crept in, covered my feet with my game-bag, placed my gun on my left -side, and, with my knife in my right hand, I passed one of the most -uncomfortable nights of my life. I heard the howling of the wolves, and -once the roar of a panther in the distance; but nothing came to disturb -me, and the bright morning sun saw me early on the march, for my couch -was not inviting enough to detain me. At length, what music to my ears! -the crow of a cock and bark of a dog announced the neighborhood of a -farm. I soon perceived the thin, blue smoke of a chimney ascending into -the beautiful clear sky, and, with a quickened pace made towards it, -hoping soon to refresh both body and soul.</p> - -<p>The good people gave me such a hospitable reception, and placed so much -on the table, that, notwithstanding my fearful appetite, there was a -great deal more than I could eat. Fortunately, the farmer had a stock of -gunpowder, and filled my powder-horn for a quarter of a dollar.</p> - -<p>As I was about to depart, he asked if I would not like to join a -shooting party; several of his neighbors were coming this morning to -search a thicket not far from his house, where they expected to find a -bear which had robbed him of many of his pigs. I did not long hesitate, -cleaned my gun, loaded the left hand barrel with ball and the right with -buck-shot, and so was ready for any thing. We had not long to wait, and -all mounted on horseback. We soon arrived at<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_100" id="page_100"></a>{100}</span> the spot, and rode round -and round it; it was the thickly overgrown bed of a former spring. -Suddenly the dogs gave tongue, and immediately afterwards the bear -started out of his hiding-place. Eager as we were we could only follow -him slowly, on account of the thick underwood; so we hobbled the horses’ -fore-legs, and pressed forward on foot.</p> - -<p>One of the party soon proclaimed that, judging by the bark of the dogs, -the bear must have climbed up a tree. Such proved to be the case, and we -had hardly discovered him, when I and one of the farmers fired: both -balls had taken effect, but a dull cry was the only consequence: two -others of the party coming up, fired. He was mortally wounded, drew -himself together, and hung by one paw from the tree; as I hit him on the -paw with my buck-shot, he fell, and died under the bites of the dogs, -who threw themselves furiously on him. His flesh was savory and tender, -but he was not so fat as was expected. I remained the night with these -kind people, and set off again on the following morning.</p> - -<p>Without any thing further worth noticing, I came, on the 15th March, to -the bank of the Great Red river, the boundary between the United States -and Texas. A farmer who had a canoe set me over the river, and, -following a well-trodden path on the other side, I came to a large slave -plantation. The overseer, who directed the labors of the negroes, said -at first that he had no room for me to sleep in; but as there was no -other house far and wide where I could find shelter, he at last agreed, -and I found a sumptuous supper and comfortable bed.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_101" id="page_101"></a>{101}</span></p> - -<p>The land near the river was very swampy, and overgrown with thick canes, -but the wood became more open and the ground dryer as I left the river. -On the evening of the third day, I again slept at a plantation, and this -was the last night I passed in a house for some time to come. The -overseer lived in a block-house, and all around stood the smaller huts -of the slaves, one for each family. During the hours of labor, he -carried a heavy whip to keep the blacks in order; yet he did not seem to -feel quite safe amongst these poor, ill-treated people, for he had a -pair of pistols in his saddle holsters.</p> - -<p>An overseer once assured me that the whip was the best doctor for the -slaves, and that when any one of them fell sick, he was flogged till he -was well again. It might sometimes happen that a poor negro pretended to -be sick to get a day or two’s rest; but how often must the really sick -slave be most atrociously treated by the inhuman overseer!</p> - -<p>From these quarters I marched along fresh and in good spirits into the -forest, which already began to look green. The birds sang so sweetly on -the branches, that my heart was joyful and mournful at the same time; I -longed in vain for a companion, with whom I could exchange thoughts. A -shot echoed from the plantation, and innumerable wild geese rose from -the cotton-fields behind me; with a deafening noise they formed their -usual triangle, and flew all in the same direction.</p> - -<p>Luckily for me, I had in my bag a couple of wild ducks that I had killed -and roasted the day before. The forest was mortally dull, and the march -began to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_102" id="page_102"></a>{102}</span> grow rather tedious, for my rambles in the north were still -fresh in my memory. I passed the night very pleasantly by a fire, while -my hunger took the second duck into consideration.</p> - -<p>Towards noon I came to the little river Sulphurfork, which I was obliged -to wade through, after many vain attempts to find a shallow place, the -water coming up to my chest. I began to despair of getting any thing to -eat, and, being thoroughly wet, I resolved to come soon to a halt, and -dry myself by a fire, when all at once I saw about fifty deer, within -shot, all quietly feeding, and taking no notice of me. For an instant I -stood petrified; then every fibre in my body beat and trembled with -delight. The suddenness of the sight had so excited me that I could not -take aim, and I was obliged to wait to collect myself. It was a glorious -sight, such a number of these noble animals together; I counted -fifty-seven, and derived particular pleasure from the antics of two -fawns, which made the most comical bounds, and came very near me without -any suspicion. Regret to kill such a beautiful innocent creature -withheld my hand for some time, but hunger was not to be cajoled,—I -fired, and one of them fell without a cry. The effect of the report upon -the herd was quite ludicrous,—each of the hitherto unsuspicious animals -became an image of attention, then fled with immense bounds towards the -thicket. As I did not move they stopped again, and began to feed, but -not without frequently raising their heads to listen. The impression -which the fall of his playfellow had produced on the other fawn was very -different. Far from flying, he came nearer, smelt the poor animal as if -he thought<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_103" id="page_103"></a>{103}</span> it was play, setting his fore-foot several times on the body -of his comrade as if to induce him to get up. I had the other barrel -still loaded, but thought it would be like murder to injure a hair of -the little creature.</p> - -<p>As I stepped out from the bushes, the fawn stared at me with -astonishment in his large clear eyes; probably he had never seen a man -before. He then flew like the wind towards his dam, but stopping now and -then as if he expected his comrade. I quickly made a fire on the spot to -roast my game, putting the greater part of the back and the brisket on -sticks before the fire with hollow bark underneath to catch the dripping -for basting; and a delicious meal was very soon the result of this -simple proceeding.</p> - -<p>Next day, as I was going quietly along through forest and prairie, -looking out right and left for game or amusement, I caught sight of -something in a large oak. Fixing my eyes steadily on it, and coming -closer, I recognized the glowing eyes of a panther crouched on a bough, -and seemingly ready to spring. I gave him both barrels, one after the -other, when he fell from the tree, and died with a fearful howl. He was -a large handsome beast, of an ashy gray color, and measuring from seven -to eight feet from the nose to the end of the tail.</p> - -<p>It was well that I had venison in my game-bag, for the panther would -have been a tough morsel. I dragged the rather heavy skin with me till -the evening, and slept soundly on it for my trouble. A damp fog came on -towards morning, which soon turned to fine penetrating rain, seeming to -foretell a disagreeable day; but as I had enjoyed beautiful weather in -general,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_104" id="page_104"></a>{104}</span> I could not complain. The sky became quite dark, the rain fell -heavier, and I was soon wet through. I left the panther skin where I had -slept, so that I had no heavy burden to carry. I found my stomach -beginning to loathe the quantity of animal food that was put into it, -and to long for bread, but I was obliged to divert my thoughts from the -subject, and the last remains of the venison were discreetly devoured. -Meantime I had killed a turkey, so that at all events I had something in -store.</p> - -<p>My plan hitherto had been to push on to the nearest eastern settlement; -but the road was too long and tedious, so I turned southwards, in order -afterwards to proceed eastward towards Louisiana and the Red river. The -constant rain made it impossible to light a fire this evening, and I -passed a miserable night, for though I tried to make a shelter of pieces -of bark, I could not manage it; however, the night came at last to an -end, and cold, cross, and hungry as a lion, I went along with only a -plucked turkey in my bag.</p> - -<p>About noon my day’s journey was brought to an unexpected end by a river -that had overflowed its banks. The rain had ceased, so that, with better -fortune than yesterday, I succeeded in making a fire, and my turkey, -divided into four quarters, was soon in front of it. Now, comfortably -stretched before my fire, I considered whether I should cross the river; -I had no sort of business on the other side, and it seemed absurd to -swim across for nothing—so I settled on quitting Texas, and returning -to the United States. If I had a friend with me I could have gone on to -the shores of the Pacific, but I had no mind to do it alone.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_105" id="page_105"></a>{105}</span> When I had -finished my repast, I got up and made my way in an E. S. E. direction.</p> - -<p>As the rain had left off, I made up to-night for the wakefulness of the -last; when I awoke the fire had burnt out, and the sun was shining -through the bursting buds of the trees. I had a good wash in a -neighboring spring, and felt like a giant refreshed.</p> - -<p>After taking my frugal breakfast, the remains of yesterday’s meal, I -drew more towards the east, in order the sooner to fall in with human -beings, to eat bread, and taste salt. I had occasionally used gunpowder -instead of salt, but my store of powder was not sufficient for such a -luxury, and it was better to be without salt than without powder.</p> - -<p>Gun on shoulder, I trudged slowly and surely on, over hill and dale, -through prairies and forest streams, towards the sun-rising, taking -sharp notice of all around. While thus proceeding, wrapped in my -thoughts, suddenly something rustled in a bush in front of me, and a -bear started out and took to flight. My ball was soon in his interior; -on being hit he stopped and looked round at me in a fury. Expecting -nothing less than an attack, I quietly cocked the other barrel; but his -intentions of attacking me seemed to pass off, and he crept into a -thicket instead. I quickly loaded with ball and followed him: as I -approached he retreated slowly, probably suffering from his wound: as -soon as I got a clear view of his head, I fired again, but only grazed -his skull. As I ran towards him his fury increased, and he turned to -meet me; on taking aim with my second barrel at about thirty paces, it -missed fire. With open jaws and ears laid back, he rushed<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_106" id="page_106"></a>{106}</span> towards me; -in this mortal danger, I preserved my presence of mind. Dropping my gun, -and drawing my knife, I sprang back a couple of paces behind a small -tree; at this moment the bear was only a few feet from me. As he rose on -his hind legs to embrace me, he was almost as tall as I, and his fiery -eyes and long teeth had nothing very attractive; but he was not destined -to know the taste of my flesh.</p> - -<p>I was quite collected, feeling sure that one or the other must die. The -moment he tried to grasp me, I thrust my long double-edged hunting knife -into the yawning abyss of his jaws, and boring it into his brain, I -brought him to the ground. I did not then know better, but I ought to -have sprung back after wounding him, and then I should have escaped -unhurt. As it was, he dragged away my coat in falling, and tore my arm -slightly. I thanked God that it was no worse. There I sat on the sweet -smelling heath, with my coat all in rags, and no other to put on. To -assuage my sorrow, I cut a large steak from the bear, which tasted -particularly good after my severe exertions. I carried away the skin. In -the evening I fell in with a herd of deer, but did not fire at them, as -I was well provided with meat.</p> - -<p>On the following evening I heard a shot. The sound ran through me like -an electric shock. There were, then, other people in this wilderness, -and not very far off, for the shooter must be on the other side of the -nearest hill. I turned rapidly in the direction whence the sound came, -and had hardly gained the crest of the hill, when a romantic and -variegated scene spread itself before my eyes.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_107" id="page_107"></a>{107}</span></p> - -<p>It was an Indian camp, and all were occupied in pitching their tents, -and preparing for the night. Here, were some cutting tent-poles with -their tomahawks; there, women collecting firewood for cooking; men -securing the horses by hobbling their fore-legs; another skinning a -deer. In short, it was life in the wilds in highest force. I should -never have tired of looking at these noble muscular figures, their faces -marked with various ochres, their heads adorned with feathers, and their -bright-colored dresses.</p> - -<p>I was not long allowed to remain a spectator, for the dogs barked and -ran at me. Breaking off a green bough, I went with it to the camp. The -Indians called off the dogs, and all eyes were now directed towards the -stranger. Going up to a group of young men, who were stretching a -deer-skin, I asked if any of them spoke English, and was directed to an -elderly man, who was sitting smoking under a tree and watching me. I -told him that I was a traveller, that I wished to return to the banks of -the Red river, and asked if I could pass the night in his camp. A -considerable group of young men had in the mean time assembled round us. -At length the old man asked—“Are white men so scarce that you come -alone into the wilderness?” I replied that I had only come for the sake -of shooting, and now wished to return. Instead of an answer, he silently -gave me his pipe, out of which I took a few whiffs, and then handed it -to one of the Indians standing near me. He did the same, and returned it -to the chief. I now sat down beside him. He asked a great many -questions, amongst others, how I had torn my coat so badly? Whereupon I -related<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_108" id="page_108"></a>{108}</span> my affair with the bear. He smiled, and translated my account -to the others, who also showed interest in my adventure.</p> - -<p>The chief then told me that it was highly dangerous for any one unused -to these encounters to risk such a fight, and that it was necessary to -spring quickly back after the thrust, the dying bear having sometimes -succeeded in killing his enemy. He took particular notice of my -double-barrelled gun and hunting-knife, and said that he had never -before seen two barrels joined together. He spoke English better than I -did, and, what was very agreeable, he spoke slowly.</p> - -<p>The Indians belonged to the Choctaw tribe, and were come out of Arkansas -in search of game. As night came on, fires were burning all around us, -and the women, among whom were some beautiful figures, cooked the -suppers, while the men quietly smoked their pipes. Finding the Indian -fashion of staring at the fire rather tedious, I made several attempts -to engage the chief in conversation, but only received short answers, so -that at last there was nothing left for it but to play the Indian, and -maintain a dignified silence.</p> - -<p>At length we retired to rest. I slept on a bear-skin beside the fire, in -front of the chief’s tent. Before sunrise, I was awakened by the noise -and songs of the Indians, who were preparing for a shooting excursion. I -jumped up, and was getting ready to join them, but soon remembered that, -with my ragged coat, I could not venture among the thorns;—I should -have been caught every moment. I showed it to one of the young men, he -immediately ran off, and soon returned with a sort of coat, or rather -hunting-shirt,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_109" id="page_109"></a>{109}</span> made out of a blanket. He made signs that he would sell -it to me, and was delighted to receive a dollar for it, with the rags of -my green coat into the bargain. For a second dollar I obtained his -embroidered belt, and was now quite set up again. Resolving to be quite -an Indian for the time, I left my game-bag in the camp.</p> - -<p>We set off, sixteen in number, all on foot, some of the Indians with -firearms, others with bows and arrows, with which they can hit their -mark at a great distance. I attached myself to one of the young men with -a bow and arrows, and, as we could not understand each other’s language, -we proceeded in silence. Each of us had provisions, which we ate as we -went along. It may have been about noon when we saw a herd of deer. My -companion went round to gain the wind of them, and shot a couple with -his unerring arrows. Away flew the others in headlong fright, coming -directly towards me, in such blind haste, that the leader of the herd, a -fat buck of eleven, was little more than ten paces off, when he -discovered me. My ball pierced his heart, and he fell without a cry. The -rest fled in all directions.</p> - -<p>We were obliged to return to the camp for horses to carry our booty. My -companion started off in a straight line for the camp, which I should -never have been able to find again. It was only a few miles distant, -although I thought it must be at least half a day’s journey behind us. -On arriving at the camp, we each mounted on horseback, and rode off at a -quick trot to the place where our game lay, which we found without -difficulty, the Indian having marked several<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_110" id="page_110"></a>{110}</span> trees with his tomahawk as -we returned. The last prize we came to was my buck, and on him we saw a -wild-cat preparing to enjoy itself. The Indian rushed forward, and the -cat, which did not perceive him till too late, flew up a tree, whence an -arrow from the sure hand of my companion soon brought it to the ground. -It was of a gray color, and larger than the domestic cat. When these -animals are irritated they will attack men: my comrade carried off the -skin.</p> - -<p>We rode back with our booty to the camp, and were received with cheers. -The party all returned one after the other, most of them with game, one -with an immense bear that he had killed, the largest I had yet seen.</p> - -<p>While cooking was going on, the young men danced and sang, the women -taking no part in their amusements, but quietly continuing their -occupations.</p> - -<p>On the following morning the chief said that he had set a wolf-trap, and -we went to see if any thing had been caught. As there was plenty of food -in the camp, we all went together, except three, who, having killed -nothing yesterday, set off to try their luck again to-day. We took four -large strong dogs with us, and followed the chief. With a triumphant -smile he showed me where he had set the trap, and near it a trace of -blood; it was shown to the dogs, and they followed it up in full cry.</p> - -<p>After running about a mile, they barked louder and louder. We hurried on -as fast as we could, and found the wolf at his last gasp under the -furious attack of the dogs. They were immediately called off, and -appeared to have suffered considerably, particularly<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_111" id="page_111"></a>{111}</span> one, whose ear the -wolf, a great black beast, had bitten quite away.</p> - -<p>These traps are set with a bait, but not fastened, for if the wolf is -caught, and the trap should be immovable, he would bite off his own leg -sooner than let himself be taken. So the trap is only fastened by a -chain to an iron clog with four hooks; as soon as the wolf finds himself -caught, he attempts to hurry away with the trap, but is detained every -moment by the hooks catching in the roots and bushes; yet he manages to -get clear again, and has been known to take the iron clog in his -mouth—but the trap still remains a hindrance, and he is easily traced.</p> - -<p>By this time I had enjoyed Indian life long enough, and wished myself -back again in more civilized society; yet I remained another day with -them, during which we shot at a mark with bows and arrows, and I caused -many a smile among the Indians, as I shot a foot wide of the mark, which -they seldom missed. We next threw tomahawks at a tree, and in this -practice I was rather more successful.</p> - -<p>On the following morning I resumed my journey to the east, provided with -venison and coarse salt, and as I saw the last Indians disappear behind -the trees, it seemed as if I was now for the first time alone in the -forest; but I soon became reaccustomed to my former life, and slept -again this night, as well as a man can sleep, on grass and fragrant -moss.</p> - -<p>Next day I came to the Sabine, seeking in vain for a ford; and as the -river was considerably swelled, and seemed wider and deeper further -south, there was nothing for it but a swim. I made a small raft, which<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_112" id="page_112"></a>{112}</span> -I bound together with creepers, and securing my gun, game-bag, knife, -tomahawk, and powder-horn on the top of it, I pushed it before me to the -opposite bank.</p> - -<p>On the 30th of January, as I arrived at the Great Red river, I saw a -farm-house, and the crow of a cock broke on my ear as the music of the -spheres. But the house was on the other side of the broad and swollen -stream, which rolled along its dirty red waves at a fearful rate. In -vain I shouted and roared myself hoarse; a shot had no better effect. I -had made up my mind to hide my gun and other things in the bush, and -swim over, when a second shot roused the farmer’s attention. He came to -the bank, and seeing some one calling and beckoning on the opposite -side, he cast off his canoe, and coming across, was not a little -astonished at finding me alone.</p> - -<p>I received a hearty welcome from his family, who were exceedingly amused -at the appetite with which I made the bread disappear, and at my -enjoyment of the coffee.</p> - -<p>As I did not wish to remain here long, I soon came to an agreement with -the farmer about the sale of his canoe; he let me have it for four -dollars, throwing a smoked leg of venison, a roast turkey, and some -loaves of maize bread into the bargain.</p> - -<p>I was soon afloat in this hollowed trunk, drifting rapidly down the -stream, which carried gigantic trees along with it. The light craft -dashed forward like an arrow under the strokes of my paddle, so that, -according to a reckoning made afterwards, I must have gone about 400 -miles in five days. It was not till late in the night that I ran in -among the reeds, and slept quietly in my own property.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_112a" id="page_112a"></a>{112a}</span></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_112b" id="page_112b"></a>{112b}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/p112bi_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/p112bi_sml.jpg" width="329" height="500" alt="[Image unavailable: THE ALLIGATOR." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">THE ALLIGATOR.</span> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_113" id="page_113"></a>{113}</span></p> - -<p>On the day after my departure, I fell in with a number of planks; they -had probably been washed away from some village on the banks. They had -floated against a tree, that was stuck fast in the bed of the river. -Intending to take them with me, in the hope of making something by their -sale, I paddled to the tree, and in attempting to secure the planks I -overreached myself; the current carried away the canoe from under me, -and in an instant I was in the water, holding on to the bough of the -tree, and close to an alligator. Luckily the beast was as much afraid of -me as I of him, and he disappeared under the water. I quickly swung -myself on the bough to reach my canoe, but too late, it was already in -the full strength of the current, leaving me hanging on the waving -bough, with canoe, gun, powder, and all that I possessed, a prey to the -waves. I saw perfectly well at once that I must either regain my canoe -or perish miserably of starvation, so I let go the bough, and swam with -all my might towards the fugitive. It cost a quarter of an hour’s -desperate exertion before I reached it, and then I had to push her to -the bank, in order to get on board, for any attempt to do so in the -middle of the stream would have upset her. In regaining the canoe I had -saved my life.</p> - -<p>When my store of provisions was exhausted I shot wild-fowl, and got them -cooked at the nearest plantation, for now, as I approached Louisiana, -the land was more occupied.</p> - -<p>Several hundred miles above its junction with the Mississippi, the Great -Red river is blocked up by numbers of trees that have been carried down -and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_114" id="page_114"></a>{114}</span> become fixed, and although the United States Government has caused -a passage for steamers to be cut through them, yet I was advised not to -attempt it with my canoe, because the current ran through it with such -force, that the least obstacle I might encounter would infallibly -overset the canoe. I was therefore obliged to traverse two lakes, called -Clear Lake and Soda Lake, which are connected with the river above and -below the Raft, as the collection of matted trees is called.</p> - -<p>I saw a great number of alligators sunning themselves on the warm sands. -I shot ten or eleven of them, but could never prevail on myself to touch -them. They were from three to twelve feet long, and sometimes even -eighteen feet. Not far from the mouth of the river, on the fifth day, -just about dusk, seeing something white in the water ahead of me, I -paddled to it, and laid hold of it, but drew my hand back with a -shudder, and the blood ran cold in my veins; it was a corpse—the naked -white back alone floated above the surface, head, arms, and legs hanging -down; a wound several inches long was visible on the left side, just -under the ribs. I paddled hastily away in sickening disgust, and left -the horrid object behind me.</p> - -<p>On the following morning I entered the Mississippi, the excessively -dirty “Father of Waters.” The scenery assumed a more tropical character, -and the long waving moss hanging from the gigantic trees gave it a -peculiarly strange aspect. After entering this magnificent river I took -on board fresh provender, not far from the junction, and directed my -course towards that<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_115" id="page_115"></a>{115}</span> “New Orleans,” now some 240 miles distant, about -which I had heard so much. But on the second day, when I was still some -hundred miles from it, a little above Baton Rouge, it came on to blow -fresh, and the wind caused such a swell in the river, that I could no -longer keep my little craft free of water; indeed it was not without -great effort and difficulty that I was able to reach the shore.</p> - -<p>There was a farm near the place where I landed, whose owner had a -quantity of wood for sale, ready cut, and piled up for the use of -steamers. A steamer, bound for New Orleans, was in the act of wooding at -the time. It would have been folly to have attempted to continue the -voyage in such a swell in so frail a craft as mine, and as I found the -farmer willing to buy her we soon agreed as to terms. I transferred my -effects to the steamer, and late on the same evening arrived at New -Orleans.</p> - -<p>For the night I slept on board, but early the next morning went to a -German tavern to refresh myself after all the hardships I had undergone, -and to sleep in a regular bed. Oh, how comfortably I stretched myself on -the soft mattress! I got up very early to have a look at the place, -having no wish to show myself in the costume of a savage when the -streets were thronged. For nine months my hair had been uncut, and -during five no razor had approached my chin; then what with my old -woollen hunting-shirt, my embroidered belt, and the high waterproof -boots, which had faithfully held out to the last, people would have -thought me more like a scarecrow than a human being: my first visit was -to a barber.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_116" id="page_116"></a>{116}</span></p> - -<p>I had heard too much boasting and bragging about New Orleans, not to be -disappointed in my expectations. I found it by no means so splendidly or -so tastefully built as was asserted, and as I walked along the narrow -streets my thoughts wandered to the far more agreeable Cincinnati. The -only handsome building in New Orleans, and one without a parallel, is -the St. Charles’ Hotel, which certainly is very magnificent.</p> - -<p>It is no wonder that the air of New Orleans should be generally so -unhealthy, and in autumn quite pestilential, for the town is built in a -complete swamp, and required to be protected by a dam from being -submerged by the river. It certainly was never intended by nature for -the abode of man; at most it is fitted for alligators, frogs, and -mosquitoes. It is the churchyard of the United States.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/p116i_sml.jpg" width="116" height="116" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_117" id="page_117"></a>{117}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_V" id="CHAPTER_V"></a>CHAPTER V.</h2> - -<p class="chead">CINCINNATI—A FARMER’S LIFE IN THE WOODS.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Scenery around New Orleans—Arrangements of American -steamers—Cincinnati and its reputation—Number of German -inhabitants—Situation of the town—Religious absurdities; the girl -“possessed with a devil”—Dangers of American steam navigation—The -“Mississippi”—Rambles in the woods—Crawfish—Mosquitoes—Picnic -in the woods—Poisonous plants—Residence with a backwoodsman, and -farming operations—Wild honey—Cattle keeping—Turkeys’ eggs—A -Methodist meeting—Attack of ague—Our farming operations.</p></div> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">I found</span> letters and money awaiting me here, which came very opportunely, -as I had expended nearly all I had gained. I now looked out for a -passage to Cincinnati; the steamer “Chillicothe” was to start for that -place at ten the next day. I paid five dollars for 1,500 miles. A -cheaper voyage is almost impossible. We did not start till evening.</p> - -<p>On ascending the river from New Orleans, the scenery is quite -enchanting. There is a succession of plantations, with country-houses -embosomed in orange and pomegranate trees, &c., while the regular rows -of negro cottages give a peculiar character to the whole.</p> - -<p>The Mississippi steamers are light and sharp, built to make their -passages as quick as possible, and to enrich their owners in five or six -years,—then they may burst or sink. The boilers are in the forepart of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_118" id="page_118"></a>{118}</span> -the vessel, the stokers working under them in the open air. They reach -nearly to the centre, some steamers having as many as eight; the -“Chillicothe” had seven. The machinery, also on deck, comes next, and -then a place for steerage-passengers, where there is no want of fresh -air; it is provided with three rows of bed places. Mounting a flight of -steps you find the officers’ cabins forward, and generally a bar for the -sale of various drinks, excepting in the “Temperance” boats. The saloon -is in the centre, having sleeping cabins with glass doors, for -gentlemen, on each side; and near the stern, the most secure place in -case of disaster, is the ladies’ cabin. Some of the boats have a third -story, but most are satisfied with the arrangement described above. The -station for the helmsman is placed high up between the two chimneys, -covered over and glazed, so that he can look out in all directions. The -tiller ropes have lately been made of wire, so that in case of fire, the -vessel might remain under command of the helm till the last moment.</p> - -<p>We had a great number of passengers, amongst them a young woman of about -two or three and twenty, who came on board a little below Natchez with a -very young man. The young people seemed to have been only lately -married, to judge by their hugging and kissing. When we arrived at -Louisville, in Kentucky, the steamer had to discharge cargo, and -remained the greater part of the day. I was standing on the bowsprit -watching the proceedings, when an elderly gentleman very well dressed, -accosted me, and, describing the couple, inquired if they were on board. -I replied in the affirmative, and accompanied him to the lower<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_119" id="page_119"></a>{119}</span> cabin. -The lady was sitting on a trunk and reading; her companion had gone into -the town. I suspected that all was not right, and that the old gentleman -had good reasons for coming; but the quiet unconcerned manner of both -parties soon did away with my suspicions. In the first moment indeed her -color seemed to change slightly, but she rose quietly, laid aside her -book, and offering her hand to the gentleman, said, civilly, “How do you -do, sir?” After a short time they retired into a corner, and spoke very -earnestly together. Meantime, I took no more notice of them, but at -bedtime I was not a little astonished to see the old gentleman take the -husband’s place, while the young man, as pale as death, stood by the -stove heedless of its burning the tails of his coat. The lady was the -wife of the gentleman who came on board at Louisville, and had run away -with the young man. The husband had obtained information, and followed -them, but would hardly have overtaken them, if the vessel had not -stopped to discharge cargo. The cool self-possession exhibited by both -parties, in order to avoid observation, was really astonishing; on his -part, in not giving way to his just displeasure, but remaining composed -and serious; on her part, in allowing no shock or trace of alarm to be -visible, which would have been so natural, when her deeply injured -husband, whom she supposed to be 1,400 miles distant, stood suddenly -before her. They all three left the boat next morning.</p> - -<p>On the 20th of February I arrived again at Cincinnati, and was kindly -received by all my old acquaintances after my long absence and -adventures.</p> - -<p>Cincinnati, the queen of the West, the El Dorado of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_120" id="page_120"></a>{120}</span> the German -emigrant! Ask a German, who is travelling into the interior from one of -the seaports, Where are you going? and the answer will invariably be—to -Cincinnati. And what will he find there? On my arrival every house was -full of people looking out for work, and who would willingly have taken -any wages that were offered them, though only enough to keep body and -soul together. Among others, I met with a man who had written to his -brother to come over to him, as this was the land where roasted pigeons -flew into men’s mouths. And as a proof of it, he referred to himself: a -few years ago he had emigrated without a farthing, and now kept an hotel -and coffee-house. In point of fact, it was true; he had indeed, an hotel -and coffee-house; but what does that mean in America? Every hovel with -one room large enough for five or six double beds, where a dozen people -are fed three times a day for from two-and-a-quarter to two-and-a-half -dollars a week each, is called an hotel. Coffee-house is a name for any -place where two or three bottles are stuck in the window, while the name -of the owner is proudly painted over the door as coffee-house keeper. -The poor German, deceived by these exalted titles, came over to his -brother, and found him, in spite of hotel and coffee-house, in a -miserable condition, and hardly able to maintain himself. Several -similar cases occurred during the time of my residence.</p> - -<p>There are a great number of Germans in Cincinnati, particularly in the -upper town across the canal, which, on that account, is often called -Little Germany by the Americans. Unfortunately, my beloved countrymen -are not celebrated for cleanliness and good conduct,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_121" id="page_121"></a>{121}</span> and the degree of -estimation in which they are everywhere held does not at all accord with -the accounts I had read in a number of works on America concerning the -way in which they were treated there; and although the well-behaved are -respected there as elsewhere, yet it is painful to hear the word -Dutchman, as the Americans always call us, used as a term of reproach, -even when you yourself are excepted. Everywhere in America, and -particularly in Cincinnati, there are people who, having gained a few -dollars, look down with contempt on their poorer countrymen, and even -join the Americans in abusing them, showing how little they care about -the esteem in which the German is held; these, however, were exceptions, -and I was heartily ashamed of them.</p> - -<p>Although the situation of Cincinnati is very healthy, yet it abounds in -doctors and apothecaries. Numbers of the former are Germans; how they -all manage to live is quite a mystery.</p> - -<p>I was much amused with some of the religious absurdities which are -carried on at Cincinnati, and in which my countrymen also distinguish -themselves. The Methodists, under the guidance of a Pennsylvanian of the -name of N——h, carry these practices to the greatest excess; on every -Sunday evening they meet to howl, and jump, and beat their breasts, and -then pronounce themselves perfectly happy.</p> - -<p>This party supports a paper called the “Christian Apology.” Its -bitterest opponent is the Roman Catholic “Friend of Truth,” which only -discontinues its thunder against the heretical folly of the “Christian -Apology” when it hurls a whole volley of abuse and execration<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_122" id="page_122"></a>{122}</span> against -the “Friend of Light,” which advocates rational religion, and holds up -the two others to ridicule.</p> - -<p>During my present residence, I heard that a German girl was lying sick, -and said to be possessed of a devil, in “Little Germany.” At first I -would not believe that any thing of the sort could occur in the present -day;—but a young Oldenburgher, with whom I had become acquainted, -assured me by all that was holy, that it was so, that he had seen it, -and that having expressed his opinion rather too freely, the bigoted -people, Roman Catholic Alsatians, fell upon him, and drove him out of -the house.</p> - -<p>I decided on witnessing the proceedings, and, in company with a friend, -set off one evening to the house in Little Germany. We had no difficulty -in finding our way to the “sick maiden,” for the whole of that part of -the town was full of the <i>extraordinary circumstance</i>, as they called -it. It was dark when we entered a little room in a frame house: a lamp -on the chimney-piece was nearly burnt out, the space was almost filled -by about thirty people all on their knees in silent prayer; not a word -was spoken: the lamp flickered, flashed up again, and went out. It -remained perfectly dark, and nothing was audible but the breathing of -those who were repeating their prayers; then a low murmuring, rustling -sound struck the ear, and for some time I did not know what to make of -it. Suddenly a door opened, light streamed into the room, and with it -the murmurs of numerous voices. People came through the doorway, and -those who had been praying on their knees rose up, and moved towards the -light: we followed the stream. An extraordinary sight presented itself: -we<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_123" id="page_123"></a>{123}</span> entered a tolerably sized room, oppressively hot, and full of people -on their knees, both men and women. It was lighted by two candles on a -table, at which three men were seated, with open books, reading aloud -the Roman Catholic prayer, “Blessed art thou, Maria,” which all the -people repeated after them; when it was ended, they began again.</p> - -<p>Although it was only May, the heat was so great from the number of -people that I felt half-boiled; but it seemed much warmer to the poor -creature, who was being made a sacrifice to the demon of absurdity. She -was lying in a wide bed in the corner opposite to the table, and was -said to be seventeen years old; I should have guessed her nearer -thirty-seven. She appeared to be very weak and ailing, and no wonder, -considering that the praying went on night and day without intermission: -her mother leant over her, wiping away from her brow the perspiration -arising from the heat of the room.</p> - -<p>It may have been about seven o’clock when we entered this sepulchre of -reason and common sense, and it was ten before we succeeded in making -our way out; and the whole time was occupied with a monotonous -repetition of the same prayer, offered up, as a little Alsatian lightly -whispered to me, “To drive out the devil in order that she may recover.” -The devil in question must certainly have been one of the most obstinate -that ever existed, for had I been in his place, such proceedings would -have driven me out long ago. It was a real luxury to inhale the pure -night air, after escaping from such a pestilential hole. I have never -heard since what became of the poor woman.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_124" id="page_124"></a>{124}</span></p> - -<p>As I learned, after a long stay in Cincinnati, that I had been deceived -by those I had trusted in New York, and that not only all my money but -my clothes also were gone, there was nothing left for it but to endeavor -to get work. I had already made a few voyages as sailor and stoker on -board a steamer, which affected my health, and laid me up for several -weeks. Besides, human life did not seem to be particularly safe on board -American steamers, especially on the western waters, disasters -frequently happening through the rashness and carelessness of the -officers in charge; for example, while I was in one of them, the -“Moselle,” a very fast boat, was blown up near Cincinnati, through the -obstinacy of the captain in racing with another boat, and stopping the -safety-valve, by which 130 persons, whose names were on the passengers’ -list, lost their lives, besides a number of steerage passengers, whose -names are not inscribed. Thirty carts were employed in carrying their -mutilated remains to the burial-places; for weeks afterwards, bodies -were frequently washed on shore. The force of the steam was so great, -that one man was thrown over to the Kentucky shore, and another came -down, head foremost, through a shingle roof.</p> - -<p>In preference to such a life, I sought for work in Cincinnati, and -obtained it at a silversmith’s. Though at first without any knowledge of -the business, I soon acquired it, and was treated by the master and his -family, good kind Americans, as if I had been one of their own -relations. This was the quietest time of my existence. I worked hard and -lived moderately. But this sort of life did not suit me; I longed for -the free<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_125" id="page_125"></a>{125}</span> woods and nature, and was only detained by the hopes of -acquiring a sufficiency, and then buying a portion of land and settling, -together with the fulfilment of other long-cherished plans. But plans -they remained, and in May I cast off my self-imposed yoke; having -exchanged my shot gun for a double-barrelled rifle, got all my shooting -gear in order, packed up a zither, which I had bought and learnt to play -in Cincinnati, I bade a hearty farewell to all the kind friends I had -made, and set off again with a young German, named Uhl, by the steamer -“Commerce,” to seek fresh adventures and encounter new dangers.</p> - -<p>The steamer foamed and hissed through the waves, which rose high upon -her bows, the land receding on both sides, as if impelled by a -magician’s wand. I felt as if new born, and flying to some strange, wild -land. At first starting, the ideas awakened by the passing scenes were -rather confused, but, as we rushed on, they became clearer, and at last -I might have nodded to each gigantic tree that adorned the beautiful -banks of the Ohio, and asked if it did not remember me.</p> - -<p>My companion, a young Berliner, with whom I had become acquainted and -struck up a friendship in Cincinnati, and who was as fond of field -sports as myself, did not participate in my feelings, but sat himself -down comfortably with no trifling appetite to a symposium, which he had -provided for himself, in the shape of a smoked tongue, with bread and -whiskey. We had not proceeded far when it grew dark; and, fatigued with -all the labors and excitement of the day, I was soon ensconced on my -soft, warm buffalo skin.</p> - -<p>On the 17th May, 1839, we entered the Mississippi,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_126" id="page_126"></a>{126}</span> whom I saluted as an -old, long lost, and long wished-for friend; a change in the color shows -where the Ohio joins the “Father of Waters,” for the first is clear and -bright, while the latter is dull and muddy. They run together for some -distance, quite distinct, the Mississippi becoming more and more -intrusive, the other shyly withdrawing, as if vexed that its clear waves -should be contaminated by all the dirt which its companion derives from -the Missouri.</p> - -<p>On the 18th, at five in the afternoon, the “Commerce” stopped at -Memphis, in Tennessee. We immediately crossed to the opposite side, and -sprang joyfully ashore in the long-desired Arkansas. We greatly enjoyed -the mild balsamic air that blew towards us from the green forest, after -our four days’ voyage, and we should have enjoyed it still more but for -the load we had to carry. Besides my game-bag, which was filled with all -possible sorts of things, I had a large buffalo skin, and Uhl a heavy -blanket, with our store of powder and ball. But we were fresh and in -good condition, and resolved, although it was already dusk, to commence -our march the same evening, taking advantage of the cool night air, the -mid-day sun of Arkansas being rather too kindly disposed. We walked on -for about five miles in the brightest moonlight, and then lay down to -repose, but were obliged to get up again and make a fire, on account of -the mosquitoes, which were very troublesome.</p> - -<p>The next morning found us cheerful and refreshed, and, as hungry as -lions, we started off, in the hope of making a prize of a deer; but a -farmer told us that this was not the right season for them, and we were -glad to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_127" id="page_127"></a>{127}</span> enter a house and satiate our appetites with bacon and maize -bread. The information we obtained about the game was not very -encouraging; they all seek shelter in the thickest coppices, or among -the reeds to avoid the flies and mosquitoes, which persecute the poor -creatures incessantly; but we could not now change our plans, so marched -steadfastly on. The farmers were quite right; we did not see any deer, -or any traces of them; a poor partridge, perched on a tree, as is -customary with the American partridges, and looking at us with inquiring -eyes, was our only sport.</p> - -<p>In the afternoon the sky became covered with dark clouds, to our great -delight, because it made the air so much cooler. In the evening we saw -the first turkey. He was crossing our path, and stood still when he saw -us: Uhl fired and missed; so our turkey made his bow and departed.</p> - -<p>Heavy rain came on with the night, and we were very glad to find an old -deserted house, where at least we could keep ourselves dry. We made a -glorious fire, and the rain holding up for a short time, we washed our -clothes, which soon dried by the blaze we had made. We then broiled the -partridge in the iron spoon that we carried with us for melting lead, -sprinkled it with powder for want of salt, and discussed it under the -mournful feeling of “only one bird for two men.”</p> - -<p>The next morning brought with it better weather, and an excessively bad -road, the rain having all but destroyed it; a few miles from our night’s -quarters we came to a house, in which we could at least satisfy our -hunger. As the roads were so bad, we decided on<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_128" id="page_128"></a>{128}</span> leaving our heavy -articles here for a time while we went in search of game. But game -seemed to have vanished entirely; we traversed the forest in all -directions in vain: we only saw a few turkeys, and these were too shy to -let us come within shot. We took up stations to watch for them in the -night, but without seeing any thing, and returned disappointed and tired -to the house.</p> - -<p>Greater misfortune awaited me next day. Continuing our route, we came on -the fresh trail of a bear, and eagerly followed it, but the wood was so -thick and our packs so inconvenient that we were obliged to give it up. -On returning to the path, I was in the act of springing over a pool, -when my foot catching in one of the numerous creepers that cover the -ground, I was thrown, and broke the stock of my rifle, besides cutting -my under lip and loosening some of my teeth: I secured my rifle as well -as I could with my pocket handkerchief, and went on vexed and out of -tune.</p> - -<p>About ten o’clock in the morning, the sun began to dart his hot rays -upon us rather more fiercely than we thought agreeable; we resolved to -enter the first house we came to, till the great heat of the day was -passed. It happened to be inhabited by an elderly widow and her sons; -while we were conversing together I observed one of the boys fishing in -a little flowing stream, pulling up prizes as fast as he could. The -lucky fisherman excited my curiosity; I went to see what he was -catching, and could hardly believe my eyes when I found that they were -crawfish. So long was it since I had tasted them, that they made my -mouth water; I soon got my fish-hook to work, and in the course of half -an<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_129" id="page_129"></a>{129}</span> hour Uhl and I with two of the boys had caught half a pailful. The -old lady looked at us with astonishment as we seized a saucepan, put in -the crawfish with a little salt, filled it up with water, and set it on -the fire; they had always thought them only fit for bait. The crawfish -soon began to show their red noses, and, when done, we set to work on -them. The meal itself was no slight treat, but our enjoyment was much -heightened by watching the countenances of the Americans, expressive -half of merriment, half of disgust, for they had never dreamt that -people could eat such nasty animals with such a zest.</p> - -<p>When the trees made long shadows we took a friendly leave of these kind -folks, and set off towards the west. About ten o’clock we came to -Blackfish lake, which we had to cross. There was a house on the bank, -where the ferryman lived; but everybody seemed fast asleep—so we -lighted our fire close to the lake, and, covering ourselves well in our -buffalo skin and blanket, we slept soundly till the morning in spite of -the mosquitoes who were humming furiously above us.</p> - -<p>On the 22nd May we were stirring at daybreak; and who would not have -been so, after sleeping in the open air in a southern climate, -surrounded by mosquitoes, which by the first glimmer of light collect -all their forces to attack more ferociously than ever? We roused the -ferryman, who told us of an unexpected swamp, which it would be -impossible for us to get through with such a weight of baggage. I had -heard the word <i>impossible</i> too often, to have much respect for it, it -being frequently applied to things that afterwards were proved to be -very possible; however, a swamp<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_130" id="page_130"></a>{130}</span> ten miles long did not sound pleasant. -We had to beg hard and pay high for a morsel of bread to quiet our -appetite, the man declaring that he had nothing else for himself.</p> - -<p>Blackfish lake is a desolate, melancholy-looking, coffee-colored piece -of water, several miles long, and some hundreds of yards wide, and its -gloom is increased by overhanging cypresses. It is said to be full of -snakes and other reptiles. Arrived on the opposite side, we had not to -look out long for the swamp. It was straight before our eyes. In point -of fact, the whole land we had passed through was very like a swamp, but -hitherto there had been a broad chaussée, running in a direct line -through the State of Arkansas, from east to west, from Memphis, in -Tennessee, to Batesville; but on the west bank of Blackfish lake it was -not yet cut through the forest, nor raised above the swamp. We were now -to enter the recesses of the primeval forest. And what a forest! and -what a journey! A load of from sixty to seventy pounds on our shoulders, -soft mud under our feet, the heat of the sun increasing, the swamp -giving out a hot suffocating air! Such was our enviable position. We had -hardly worked our way for a quarter of a mile through mud and thorns, -when we were obliged to sit down and rest; but rest was also a torment; -there was not a breath of wind to refresh us, and the moment we stopped -millions of mosquitoes attacked us. The water was lukewarm, and we had -to suck it up from pools covered with slime. If we left the regular -path, which was the most muddy, and tried a short cut through the wood, -we were caught at every step by the thorns and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_131" id="page_131"></a>{131}</span> creepers, which in many -places were impenetrable. In spite of all, we were not discouraged, but -went on as well as we could, floundering and resting alternately. After -a time, while taking a short repose, we heard the strokes of an axe—a -heavenly sound to our ears. We laid aside our burdens, and Uhl followed -the direction of the sound, to discover what unfortunate child of man -was thinking of settling in such a swamp. He soon came back, and called -to me to take up the packages and come along, for he had found some -charming people; and we both worked our way through the almost -impervious thicket to these strangers.</p> - -<p>They were a family from Tennessee, who had halted to dine. The group -consisted of the father, a large, strong built man, upon whom time was -just beginning to set his wrinkles, his wife, also formed on a large -scale, two sons, of fifteen and ten, and three daughters, from twelve to -seven. A horse and pair of oxen were feeding quietly near them, and two -large dogs were hid under the two carts, one of which was for baggage, -the other, rather lighter, for the wife and children. The dogs, -anxiously looking out for their food, advanced as near as their ropes -would allow to the table-cloth, which was spread out on a dry place. -Maize-bread and butter, pork, cheese, and coffee were the ingredients of -the meal; and, after a kindly greeting, and a hearty invitation from the -seniors, we were soon all in our places, in Turkish attitudes, round the -table-cloth. The children had kindled fires all round us, laying on -rotten wood, there being no scarcity of it, so that we were sheltered by -a thick smoke, which these tormenting<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_132" id="page_132"></a>{132}</span> demons cannot bear. Thus we were -left in tolerable repose.</p> - -<p>Uhl and I did not disgrace our German lineage in regard to the -provisions, and after the greater part of them had disappeared, we set -off again on our journey, taking a cordial farewell of our hospitable -friends; and footmarks, of from eighteen inches to two feet deep -impressed in the soft mud, and rapidly filling with water, soon showed -that two pair of German boots had passed that way. At length, when the -sun had descended below the tops of the trees, and was glowing like a -fiery red ball above the horizon, after the greatest exertions, we -approached the termination of our amphibious walk. The forest opened a -little, and we caught sight of a block-house standing on dry ground. We -decided on making a short stay here at all events, to recover from our -fatigue, and to clean and wash our clothes.</p> - -<p>On the next morning I awoke with an excessive itching in my face and -right shoulder, and found, to my no slight astonishment, that both parts -were much swelled, and covered with small blisters. An American, who -dwelt a few hundred paces from the house, and who probably came to see -us and pick up any news, soon cleared up the mystery. A great many of -the creepers and shrubs in the swamps have a milk-white sap, which is -poisonous, and it is likely that I may have broken some of them, and my -face and shoulder may have been smeared with this sap. Wet and cold -applications are considered the best cure. I accordingly surrendered -myself to such treatment, first rubbing my face well with pork fat, as -an antidote to the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_133" id="page_133"></a>{133}</span> poison. I must have cut a pretty figure with my -swollen, blistered, shining face. Uhl nearly killed himself with -laughing at me.</p> - -<p>In the evening, some mule drivers from Texas came in, having pitched -their camp not far from the house. They consisted of three whites, and -two Cherokees. One of the Indians spoke English very well, and I had a -long conversation with him. He had adopted all the habits of the whites, -although he did not seem to have much love for them. I went to bed late, -and dreamed of Indians and buffalo hunts.</p> - -<p>All next day I was obliged to remain quiet, on account of my swelled -face, and was rewarded for my patience by being nearly well by the -evening. As the baggage we had hitherto carried was too heavy, we -resolved to leave some of it with these people till we saw what was -likely to become of us. We had neither of us any settled plan. Our -mutual wish had only been freedom and the forest, rightly conjecturing -that all the rest would come of itself.</p> - -<p>As on the second day we continued our journey a great deal lighter, and -with renewed strength. After several miles walk we came to a smithy, -where, luckily, I could get my gun repaired, otherwise I should not have -been able to shoot. This smithy was at a Mr. Strong’s plantation, where -the road branches off to Little Rock, and to Batesville. We were -undecided which to take, when we were told that we should find much more -game on the road to Batesville. This settled the point. We waited till -the cool of the evening to resume our march. While the smith was -repairing my gun, the Tennessee man, with his family, arrived<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_134" id="page_134"></a>{134}</span> from the -marsh. He had been three days and three nights coming the ten miles, and -even now it is a riddle to me how he managed it.</p> - -<p>On the evening of the 26th of May, after a rich feast on the quantities -of blackberries which grew by the way, we came to a house belonging to a -man of the name of Saint, and decided on staying there to sleep; we -found a better set of people than we had expected, and engaged in a long -conversation with our host. After supper, to our no small horror we -learnt that unless we could swim twenty-eight miles, further progress -was not to be thought of, as the whole swamp between this and White -river was under water. Uhl and I looked at each other, with long faces, -as much as to say, “quid faciamus nos;” but Saint was good enough to -invite us to stay with him till the swamp had somewhat dried up, which -at least would be about the middle of July; meantime we could go out -shooting, and the game we brought home would well repay him for all our -expenses.</p> - -<p>This, of course, was grist to our mill, and we soon made ourselves at -home. On the following morning, almost before we were settled, we went -to the forest with our host, a keen sportsman, to look for bears, taking -seven dogs with us. And what a country he took us to! Swamps and thorns, -creepers, wild vines, fallen trees, half or entirely rotted, deep and -muddy water-courses, bushes so thick that you could hardly stick a knife -into them, and, to complete the enjoyment, clouds of mosquitoes and -gnats, not to mention snakes lying about on the edges of the -water-courses; such is the aboriginal American forest, and in such a -scene we commenced our sport.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_135" id="page_135"></a>{135}</span></p> - -<p>After an hour or two, the dogs started a young bear, and followed him in -full cry, but had not gone far when they were stopped by the river -l’Anguille, or, as they call it here, the Langee; neither coaxing nor -threats could induce them to take to the water, and Saint thought that -if one of us swam over, the dogs would follow, and that we should find -the trail again on the other side. Saint <i>could</i> not swim, Uhl <i>would</i> -not: so I threw off my clothes, and plunged in. The river, which in -summer is very shallow, and hardly seems to flow, was now much swollen, -and had overflowed its banks. As soon as I had swam some distance, Saint -began to cheer on the dogs, and I soon heard them spring into the water, -one after the other, and follow me. I was swimming slowly with long -strokes, and had reached about the middle of the river, when I heard two -of the dogs close behind me, while Saint was still cheering them on from -the bank, as if to attack a bear. The two near me were barking -furiously, and the thought flashed upon me: suppose they were to seize -me? If only one had attacked me, all the rest would have joined, and as -they were strangers to me, if they had fallen upon me I should have had -no chance: so I began to strike out as hard and as fast as I could to -reach the shore. Exerting myself for my life, I came nearer and nearer -the bank, but the excited dogs swam faster still, and I heard the -snorting of one of them close to me when I felt the ground: in an -instant I and the dogs were both on shore. The danger was over now, and -they began to hunt; but either the bear had followed the stream, and -landed lower down, or the ground was too wet for the scent;<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_136" id="page_136"></a>{136}</span> in short, -we could not find the trail. We tried our luck at another place, with no -more success, and returned home towards evening quite tired and out of -spirits.</p> - -<p>Our hosts to all appearance were very religious people, and we had -prayers every evening. This evening we went early to bed, being all very -tired, so that, as yet, I hardly had time to take much notice of the -people we were to live with. We had to be awakened for breakfast; -afterwards we strolled about the house and fields to realize our -situation. Saint was a man of about forty, with a bright clear eye, and -open brow; you were captivated by him at the very first sight. His wife, -an Irishwoman, treated us very civilly and kindly, and proved to be an -excellent manager. They had no children; but there was another person in -the house, who demands a more particular description. This was a -duodecimo Irish shoemaker, or, as he always insisted—schoolmaster, for -such, by his own account, was his former occupation, though now he made -shoes. Saint had bought a quantity of leather, and the little Irishman -was to work it up, receiving a certain monthly sum. He had red hair, was -pock-marked, stood about five feet, but was stout and strongly built, -and may have been about fifty years old. He spoke unwillingly about his -age, wishing to pass for much younger. Saint, who loved to joke with -him, told us, with a smile, that on Sunday we should see him in his -best, when he would go to pay his court to a young widow in the -neighborhood.</p> - -<p>The house was built of logs, roughly cut. It consisted of two ordinary -houses, under one roof, with a<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_137" id="page_137"></a>{137}</span> passage between them open to north and -south, a nice cool place to eat or sleep in during summer. Like all -block-houses of this sort, it was roofed with rough four-feet planks; -there were no windows, but in each house a good fireplace of clay. A -field of about five acres was in front of the house, planted with Indian -corn, excepting a small portion which was planted with wheat. Southwest -from the house stood the stable, which S. was obliged to build, because -he gave “good accommodation to man and horse;” otherwise it is not much -the custom in Arkansas to trouble one’s self about stables. A place, -called a “lot,” with a high fence, is used for the horses, hollowed -trees serving for mangers. Near at hand was a smaller log-house for the -store of Indian corn, and a couple of hundred paces further was a mill -which S. had built to grind such corn as he wanted for his own use, and -which was worked by one horse.</p> - -<p>About a quarter of a mile from the house, through the wood, there was -another field of about five acres, also sown with maize. The river -l’Anguille flowed close in the rear of the house; another small building -at the back of the dwelling was used as a smoking house; near it was a -well about thirty-two feet deep.</p> - -<p>We went out shooting and wandering through the woods all day long, -though with little sport. Uhl had had better luck than I, so being -firmly resolved to bring home something, I had been straying in the -forest from daybreak, when at last I saw a deer. Firing too eagerly I -took bad aim, and he fled with long bounds to the thicket; but red marks -on the leaves showed that he was hit. I followed the trail;—but without -a<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_138" id="page_138"></a>{138}</span> dog it was slow work, and then the increasing darkness convinced me -of the impossibility of finding either the deer or the way back to the -house, being as yet too unacquainted with the country to be able to find -my way by the stars.</p> - -<p>I was soon comfortably stretched by a blazing fire, and should have done -very well, but for the stomach, that constant tormentor, who kept -reminding me that he had had no work to do since the morning, except to -consume a few insignificant green sassafras leaves. The night was -beautiful, the stars shining brilliantly, and the weather fortunately -too cool for mosquitoes. I soon slept quietly and comfortably till about -midnight, when I was awakened by the disagreeable howling of the wolves; -it seemed as if they had all assembled to give me a serenade; if so, the -poor beasts had a very ungrateful audience. During the interval, the -sharp roar of a panther was heard rather too close to my lair. Such a -neighbor was by no means desirable or trustworthy; so I fired in the -direction whence I heard the sound, and he flew back again to the -jungle. I now made up my fire afresh, and was soon asleep for the second -time.</p> - -<p>When I awoke the sun was peeping through the branches. Shaking my limbs, -which were stiff with cold, I commenced my journey homewards, -endeavoring to shorten the way by thoughts of a good warm breakfast.</p> - -<p>S. had for some days talked of cutting down a tree, in which he had -discovered a swarm of wild bees, but something had always happened to -hinder it; however, on the first of June we set off at daybreak on our -long<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_139" id="page_139"></a>{139}</span> talked of excursion, the party being increased by S.’s -brother-in-law. The two Americans took axes, while Uhl and I carried -pails to hold the honey we expected to find. We proceeded to a little -prairie about three miles off, and soon found the tree, which S. had -discovered and marked. It is a backwoods custom, when any one finds a -tree with wild bees, and has not time or inclination to cut it down at -once, to cut his name, or if he cannot write, as was the case with S., -to make his mark on it, and if any one else finds the tree and sees the -mark, he goes on his way, leaving it to the first finder.</p> - -<p>S.’s tree was a decayed red oak, on the verge of the little prairie. The -two axes, wielded by powerful and skilful arms, soon made the old tree -totter, and then fall with a crash. In the mean time I had lighted a -fire by S.’s directions, laid it on a piece of bark, and covered it with -rotten wood, so that it gave out a thick black smoke. As soon as the -tree was down, I held this under the opening where the bees went in and -out: stupefied by the smoke, they flew high into the air, never -attempting to sting, though several flew about me, and lighted on my -clothes. Our trouble did not go unrewarded; we found a pretty thick -bough full of honey, of which we ate as much as we wished, carrying home -the rest.</p> - -<p>S. seemed to be pleased with us, for he asked us to remain with him to -look after his cattle, of which he had about two hundred head running -loose in the woods; we might take our rifles and shoot at the same time. -As this seemed to suit our plans, we took the subject into serious -consideration, and on Monday,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_140" id="page_140"></a>{140}</span> June 3rd, made the following compact. We -agreed to undertake the charge of S.’s cattle, to give them salt in the -little prairie from time to time, where a tent was to be pitched for us, -and whither we were frequently to drive them, to accustom them to it. We -were to receive one-third of the produce, namely: every third calf, as -our property. S. bound himself to provide us with pork, flour, coffee, -sugar, and salt; also, as soon as he had time, to build a small house -for us in place of the tent. So far so good; but the final clause was a -jewel, and the Irish schoolmaster who drew up the bond was not a little -vain of his performance. It stated: “Neither of the undersigned parties -is bound by this contract, if any one of them should think that he could -do better elsewhere.” The important document was signed by both parties, -S. making a cross, and then it was carefully secured in S.’s strong box, -the Irishman putting the copy in his pocket, probably to show the widow -this specimen of his abilities. We shouldered our rifles, and trotted -off to reconnoitre our new province.</p> - -<p>Uhl and I having separated, I shot a young deer, but as it was too heavy -to carry, I let it lie, and took a direct line towards home, marking the -trees with my tomahawk as I went along. Suddenly a hen turkey flew up; -before I could fire she was lost in the bushes, but right under my feet -lay nine beautiful eggs, in a nest made of dry grass. I sat down to -await the return of the hen, but as she did not choose to make her -appearance, I took up the eggs and carried them home, intending to rear -them; then I went with a horse to pick up my deer.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_141" id="page_141"></a>{141}</span></p> - -<p>Having signed the agreement with S., and decided on remaining here some -time, it was necessary to fetch our things, which we had left at -Blackfish lake, and S. kindly offered us one of his horses for the -purpose; but the horses were running wild in the woods, and had to be -caught. Uhl and I set off to catch one, taking different directions; we -searched the whole day without seeing a single trail, and our endeavors -on the following day were just as unfortunate. At first we hunted -together, but afterwards again separated. I went pacing along one of the -paths that cross the wood in all directions, but soon found that it was -only a deer or cow path; I left it, and pushed on in a straight -direction, careless as to the line of country, so that I could only fall -in with a horse; and as to the night, sleeping under the green trees was -more agreeable than in a close room. The idea that I might lose myself -never occurred to me. At length, however, as I advanced, the scenery -assumed a different character to that in S.’s neighborhood. It was no -longer marshy, but the ground was undulating, and I once more saw -fir-trees, which I had lately so much longed for. Contrary to my -expectations, I arrived at a farm before dark, but could obtain no -information about the horses—no one had seen any—and on my asking how -far I was from S.’s farm, I received the agreeable answer, “At least -eleven miles;” rather too far for an evening’s walk—so the good folks -kindly asked me to pass the night with them. I placed my gun and cap in -a corner, and seated myself with them in the mild evening air; we struck -up an agreeable conversation, and I fully expected a very pleasant -evening; but a<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_142" id="page_142"></a>{142}</span> storm was brewing to disturb its serenity. We had not -long been seated when a tall, ceremonious, respectable looking man, -buttoned to the chin in a long brown coat, arrived. He saluted us rather -solemnly, then seating himself at a short distance, took a little book -from his pocket, turned over the leaves, and, before I suspected any -thing, he thundered out a hymn with a voice that astounded me. Not being -used to such a proceeding, I looked first at one then at the other for -some explanation, but they kept their eyes fixed on the ground, looking -very solemn all the time. The voice of the singer became louder and -louder. The good man seemed to have lost the end of his song; night came -on, and it was rather cold—still he kept on, until at last his voice -failed, and he was obliged to stop. I thought this was all, but more -people arrived, among them some very pretty young women, such as I never -expected to see in the wilderness. The air being cool and damp, we -entered the house, which was set out with benches, and looked like a -school-room. The case was clear—I had stumbled on a Methodist meeting, -and must take the consequences. The singing and praying lasted several -hours, and I was heartily tired of it, as it did not agree with my -habits and feelings.</p> - -<p>With the first streaks of red I commenced my journey homewards, and -arrived about noon, to find that Uhl, with more luck than myself, had -already caught a horse.</p> - -<p>On the 8th of June I rode off to Blackfish lake swamp, to bring away the -things we had left at Hamilton’s. Just as I entered the house, Mrs. -Hamilton<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_143" id="page_143"></a>{143}</span> had a robust little fellow in front of her, a stepson, I -believe, about three or four years old, and told him to jump about the -room for a piece of cake she held in her hand. He began to jump, and -looked very comical as he bobbed up and down like a cork. When he -thought he had earned his cake, he came to ask for it, but was put off -with the word “more.” He quietly went back to his place, and recommenced -his exercise, but had lost the cheerful expression of his -countenance—he was doing it as a duty. After dancing for some time -longer, he came again for his cake, in the firm belief that this time he -was sure of it, but a “more yet” made him start. He begged, protested, -cried—all in vain; “more yet,” said his inexorable tormentor, holding -the cake up for him to jump at. Tears ran down the poor little fellow’s -cheeks, and he jumped and jumped, and sobbed, and wiped his eyes with -his sleeve. It was impossible to keep one’s countenance any longer, and -as I cried with laughing, he laughed through his tears. He then received -the cake he had so well danced for, and jumped once more from free will, -out of doors with it.</p> - -<p>I packed all things on the horse, and set out on my return the same -evening. On the following morning we began to build our house; we pulled -down an old block-house, standing about three miles from the site we had -chosen, and carted the logs to our prairie, where we could easily -rebuild it. In the backwoods building is a very simple art. In the first -place, small trees of oak, or some other good wood, are felled and cut -to the requisite length. Next comes the foundation: two of the largest -trunks are laid parallel to each<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_144" id="page_144"></a>{144}</span> other on the ground at the proper -distance, two others are laid across their ends to form the square, and -fitted into each other with notches, which makes the building all the -firmer, and closes the crevices. In this way the walls are run up, but -without any entrance. Ours being an old house rebuilt, the logs all -fitted each other, and door and chimney were already cut, which, in -other cases, has to be done with the axe after the walls are up. The -roof is then laid, and, Swiss fashion, has to be secured with weights, -to prevent its being blown away; but wood being more plentiful here than -stone, heavy poles, called weight-poles, or young trees are used -instead.</p> - -<p>Although the heat was oppressive, our work went on rapidly, and we soon -had the house up all but the chimney, which, it being summer, was not so -necessary. Besides, dabbling with moist clay being dirty and -disagreeable work, the chimney is generally left until it is too cold to -do without it. June 10th, we began our fence, so that the cattle might -not walk into the house, and also to secure the calves, that the cows -might come to be milked.</p> - -<p>The fences are formed of split logs of black or red oak, or hickory, ten -or eleven feet long, and four or five inches thick, these woods -splitting easily; the fences are laid zigzag, and carried to a height -that no horse, much less a cow, can jump over. This was hard work, and -the heat oppressive; I felt very feverish, and had a severe headache, -but as the work could not go on without me, I would not hang back. On a -sudden every thing began to dance before my eyes, then all was dark, and -I fell fainting to the ground. I soon recovered,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_145" id="page_145"></a>{145}</span> and lay for a short -time in the shade of a tree, then continued my work till evening. Next -day S. wanted to get in his wheat, and as I felt quite well again, we -went to help him; I had hardly been half an hour at work, when, in spite -of the burning heat, I felt a peculiar shivering and severe headache, -while my lips and nails turned blue; in short, there was no doubt I had -the ague. I went immediately to bed, and by noon was somewhat better. S. -would not allow me to return to our hut, but insisted on my staying with -them till my recovery, that I might always receive assistance. The fits -returned on the second and third days, making me feel very weak and -weary.</p> - -<p>On the third day, a Saturday, at about two in the afternoon, I felt -better, and went to the mill, where S. was at work, meaning to help him -and take a little exercise, when I saw two strangers, a man and a woman, -riding along the road. With horror, I recognized in the countenance of -the man the Methodist preacher who had so tormented me some days before. -It was not without reason that I dreaded a repetition of the scene. He -rode past me with an important and expressive countenance, which seemed -to say: “Here I am again you see, make yourself happy.” Uhl, to whom I -had given a description of the former meeting, tried to slip off with me -to the hut, but we were discovered, and invited to attend. The -difference between this and the former meeting was that we had a sermon, -in the course of which two women in succession jumped about in a -pitiable state of excitement.</p> - -<p>About noon next day, the dogs ran round and round the field, always -stopping at one particular place. S.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_146" id="page_146"></a>{146}</span> said there must be a fox there. I -hastened to get a shot at him, but without success, till suddenly, by -the barking of the dogs, I knew that Reynard must have come to a stop, -and supposed him to have run to earth; but what was my surprise on -finding him perched on a tree, from which he was seriously contemplating -the furious dogs beneath him! I was so astonished that at first I did -not fire. When I did so, he remained hanging between the two branches -where he had squeezed himself, which was all the better for his skin, as -the dogs would have spoiled it. I afterwards learnt that the foxes here -always climb a tree, when driven to the last, but they can only manage -it with small trees, nor can they get higher than ten or twelve feet; in -the swamps they generally live in the hollows of trees.</p> - -<p>On returning to the house I found the little schoolmaster in the height -of his glory. He was dressed all in white;—white trousers, a snow white -shirt and jacket, white neckcloth, a light-colored, almost white, straw -hat, and light tanned shoes, also almost white. To all this garb of -innocence, the red hair, red face, redder nose, and bluish red hands, -offered a striking contrast; he seemed to be well satisfied with -himself, stepped carefully over the fence, and was soon lost, like a -sunbeam, in a dark forest.</p> - -<p>On the 20th June we finished our fence. On the 21st we began the floor -of our house, and on the 22nd the grand work was all complete. In the -afternoon we went to S.’s to fetch our things, and towards evening, as -it was very warm, I plunged into the cool stream flowing past the back -of the house, and had to pay for it severely on the following day by a -return of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_147" id="page_147"></a>{147}</span> ague. Perhaps a rather too copious indulgence in -blackberries, which abounded here, may have somewhat contributed to this -result. Be the cause what it may, the attacks were repeated, and so -severely that I was confined to the house, when S., his brother-in-law, -and Uhl rode away for a buffalo hunt. I passed two tedious days in bed, -but on the third, feeling better, I took my rifle, and lounged along the -banks of the river, to try and pick up a couple of young wild ducks, -which were just in season. In the course of half an hour I had killed -three, and was on my way home, feeling much fatigued, when immediately -before me, almost under my feet, I perceived a mocassin snake, ready to -attack me, with its head drawn back, and its tongue darting out. These -snakes are very venomous; so jumping back, by no means leisurely, I -seized a long stick, and belabored him with it till he could do no harm. -This deep moist ground is full of venomous snakes; but it is very rarely -that any person is bitten, because they are shy, and always try to -escape when any one approaches.</p> - -<p>On my return I found a fresh bear’s trail very near the house. Bruin had -crossed the river since I had passed, but the buffalo hunters had taken -all the dogs; and I was too weak to follow him alone. They returned in -the evening without having seen any buffaloes, though they had crossed -their trail. Uhl had shot a deer or two, which was all their booty.</p> - -<p>On the 2nd July we rode off to a farm belonging to a Mr. Dunn, about -eleven miles off, to drive home some cattle that S. had bought. We did -not arrive till dusk, and found Mr. Dunn at home; he was a fat man with -a copper-colored nose, that seemed to do no dishonor<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_148" id="page_148"></a>{148}</span> to the sign before -his door; and a bottle of whiskey soon glittered on the table. S. drank -no spirits, so only just tasted it once: we did not follow his example, -but drank and laughed and talked till late in the night.</p> - -<p>I was much surprised next morning by the view from Dunn’s house. We were -again amongst the hills, the house standing on the eastern spur, which -stretches out towards the swamps like a peninsula. The thick white fog, -through which not a tree was visible, north, south, or east, looked like -the sea, and I was prompted to look out for a sail; the glowing red ball -of the sun as he worked his way through it, cast a roseate hue over all. -As the sun rose higher the fog began to disperse, and the tips of the -highest trees appeared. As the fog vanished, it gave place to a -boundless extent of green, unbroken by any rise, save that on which we -stood. I remained for a long time in silent admiration of the -fascinating sight.</p> - -<p>After breakfast we collected our animals, and drove them towards home, -through thorns, creepers, morasses, cane brakes, streams, and woods. -Driving a number of cattle, which have never before been under the hand -of man, is about as hard work as one can imagine, and a man who never -swore in his life would be sure to learn it then. But cattle-driving was -now our business, and we followed it up with a will. After immense -difficulty, we succeeded in bringing them all within the fence in our -prairie, secured them with the lasso, branded them with Saint’s mark, -and left them to themselves till the morning. At dark we spread my -buffalo skin on the ground, covered ourselves with Uhl’s blanket, and -were soon fast asleep.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_149" id="page_149"></a>{149}</span></p> - -<p>By this time we began to feel a little more comfortable, having made a -couple of rough benches, and fixed some shelves to hold our things; but -as our utensils were not very numerous, cooking was one of our chief -difficulties. There was, however, no want of food, for Saint supplied so -plentifully.</p> - -<p>We kept in all the calves of the new herd, leaving the cows at liberty, -as they never strayed very far from their young. We were also obliged to -confine some of the wildest, but the rest soon accustomed themselves to -the prairie, particularly as we sprinkled salt before them, of which -they are passionately fond. Indeed we gave it to all the cattle every -evening, which kept them from straying far away. In the daytime we -ranged the woods with our rifles.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/p149i_sml.jpg" width="102" height="93" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_150" id="page_150"></a>{150}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VI" id="CHAPTER_VI"></a>CHAPTER VI.</h2> - -<p class="chead">A FARMER’S LIFE IN THE WOODS.<br /><br /> -(CONTINUED.)</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">My comrade attacked by ague—Removal to a new locality—Snakes in -the woods—Grinding corn—“Lying” Bahrens—Repeated attacks of -ague—Sassafras tree—“An epileptic breakfast”—Night in the -forest—The panther—Visit to Hilger—Shooting by torchlight—A -distillery—A backwoods politician—Clearings—New farm—Illness, -and want of medical aid—Negro children—Two American -speculators—Bad characters in Arkansas—Removal to a new farm at -Oiltrove bottom—White river—A gallant buffalo -hunter—Home-sickness—Unhealthy swamps—Bear-hunting in companies.</p></div> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">On</span> the 8th of July, I had killed a fawn. The flesh was very delicate, -and we had made a hearty feast on it, when Uhl complained of headache -and sickness, and though he had frequently boasted of his sound -constitution, and maintained that he should never be ill, he began to -feel some doubts on the subject. Next day he was very ill, and on the -third, about noon, his sickness declared itself as a regular attack of -ague. I did all I could to relieve him, but in our loneliness we had -little to comfort an invalid. Towards evening he got better, and longed -for some blackberries. I took a tin dish, and went to a place about -eighty paces from our house, where they grew in quantities; there had -formerly been a field here, and the thorns grew thick about the -overthrown trees. I was plucking<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_151" id="page_151"></a>{151}</span> some of the ripest berries from one of -the largest bushes, in which I had once or twice heard something move; -but as all the cows and calves were near me, and I supposed it proceeded -from some of them, I had not taken much notice of the fact, when -suddenly the bush opened, and a large, powerful wolf walked deliberately -forth; he looked steadily at me, and seemed inclined to declare war. I -raised my foot to give him a kick with my heavy fisherman’s boot, for I -had no weapon; but he seemed to think better of it, and walked away -slowly towards the jungle. I hastened to the house, seized my rifle, and -followed his trail; but too late, for he had taken to flight.</p> - -<p>July 11th. Uhl was so far recovered as to be able to go to Saint’s, -where he could receive better care, and for some time I was alone in my -hermitage. I felt very comfortable, having no cares or troubles, paid -attention to my charge, supplied them plentifully with salt, and -constantly went out shooting, bringing home young turkeys, which were -just large enough to be eaten. In the evening, when all was still, I sat -in front of the house, by a blazing fire, playing my zither, and was -very happy without seeing a human face.</p> - -<p>On July 17th I went to Saint’s to see Uhl, and to get some flour and -coffee. Uhl was better, and free from fever, but weak. I did not return, -as Saint required my assistance. Saint then proposed that, for the -summer and autumn, we should move further west, and pitch our camp near -Brushy lake, about six miles from Saint’s, where there was better -pasture, so that when once the cattle had been driven there, they would -not be likely to stray. I was pleased with the plan, as<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_152" id="page_152"></a>{152}</span> there was more -game there, and we only waited Uhl’s recovery to put it in execution.</p> - -<p>On July 22nd Uhl felt tolerably well, so we started in company with a -long Kentuckyman, who happened to be there, to have a look at the -country, and to fix on a place for our tent. As it was late in the -afternoon when we started, it was almost dark when we arrived. We were -deceived in our expectations of finding game, and had to go hungry to -sleep, having brought no provisions with us, except a morsel of bread -and a couple of onions. We had made sure of killing a deer before dark, -but had reckoned without our host. It was a beautiful night, mosquitoes -excepted; we had nothing to wish for beyond a good supper. A bright fire -was soon blazing up, for notwithstanding the heat of the days the nights -were cold.</p> - -<p>Our American friend, Jim by name, was very much afraid of snakes, which -abounded in this neighborhood. He could not rest quiet, and repeated a -number of stories of this person or that having been bitten by snakes in -the night. I let him talk on, while I made preparations to go to sleep.</p> - -<p>Half asleep, I still heard the snake stories, till, overpowered by -fatigue, Morpheus took me softly in his arms; but there were snakes -hanging about me, and some of them grew to an immense size, till at last -it seemed as if a very wicked-looking one came straight towards me, -crawled under my left knee, and there coiled himself down—yet he kept -fidgeting as if he could not make himself quite comfortable. I awoke, -and lay for a moment quite still; Jim was yet telling his snake stories -to Uhl, who was listening attentively,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_153" id="page_153"></a>{153}</span> when I positively felt something -move under my knee, and hearing of nothing else, thinking of nothing -else, of course I supposed it must be a snake. I dared not raise myself -slowly for fear of pressing on the snake, when he would certainly have -bitten me. I sprang up as quickly as I could, and at once burst away -from my couch: my two comrades, with their brains full of all sorts of -monsters, no sooner saw me start up so suddenly, than they followed my -example, as if they had been fired from a gun, and we looked at each -other in dismay.</p> - -<p>I examined the place where I supposed the snake to be, and found a -little twig of about eight or nine inches growing out of the ground, and -which had been under my knee. We all laughed heartily at our fright, and -were soon fast asleep.</p> - -<p>Our appetites next morning were very sharp. In the course of a couple of -hours Jim shot a squirrel, which afforded but a meagre breakfast for -three people. After breakfast we tried again, and with better success on -my part, for, happening to espy a deer in the jungle, I knocked him -over, and we returned to S.’s well laden with venison. Although we had -found several spots suitable for our tent, we had not fixed on any one -in particular, and we were well pleased with the place altogether, -notwithstanding snakes and mosquitoes.</p> - -<p>Hitherto we had always eaten maize bread, because, although S. could -grind wheat, he had no means of bolting it; and as it was stacked in the -field he decided on sending it to a mill about fifteen miles distant. -The wheat was in sheaves, but there was neither barn nor thrashing -floor, neither flail nor winnowing machine,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_154" id="page_154"></a>{154}</span> nothing to clean it from -the straw; however, we set to work Arkansas fashion. The weather was -bright and dry, the road before the door as hard as a stone, but dusty: -a space about thirty feet in diameter was fenced in, and swept as clean -as possible; the sheaves were unbound and laid in a circle, every two -sheaves with their ears together, one with the straw to the centre, the -other with the straw outwards; six horses were mounted, and ridden round -and round, while two men kept shaking down fresh corn; when it had been -well trodden out, it had to be sifted.</p> - -<p>I had probably worked rather too hard, caught another attack of ague, -and was obliged to lie down till evening, when I felt somewhat better. -This evening we were visited by a friend of S.’s, or neighbor, as he -called himself, though living at a distance of twenty-five miles; but -there was neither house nor road between the two. He was called Jim -Bahrens, but S. whispered to me that he was nicknamed “lying Bahrens,” -and indeed Munchausen would have been obliged to hide his face before -him. He was very talkative and amusing; amongst other things, he told us -that he had but a small tract of land, but that it was the best and most -fertile in the whole world; that he could grow every thing on it, except -corn beans (the common garden bean), because the corn grows so fast, -that it drags the beans out of the earth. He invited us to come and see -him, telling us that he could kill as much game in a day as would weigh -1000 pounds for that he lived among large herds both of buffaloes and -deer. We promised to come, and see all these wonders.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_155" id="page_155"></a>{155}</span></p> - -<p>On the 1st of August, Uhl told me that he wished to go, being tired of -this sort of life; and, indeed, I must allow that I myself was rather -sick of it. I was so weak that I could hardly crawl, and saw so many -sickly faces around me, that I could not try to persuade him to remain. -We divided our property, for hitherto we had had all things in common, -and on the same day he marched off to the west. I had no time to indulge -in sorrowful thoughts, for the ague attacked me again; having brought -some medicine with me from Cincinnati, I took an emetic, and then a dose -of quinine, which succeeded in subduing it.</p> - -<p>On August 3rd, I felt better, and decided in the afternoon on driving to -the mill; but the grain had first to be cleaned. This, without a -machine, was rather a difficult matter, but the sharp Americans know how -to manage it. Two of the stoutest fellows hold a blanket by the four -corners; a third stands on a chair with a sieve full of grain, which he -shakes, not too fast, nor too long at a time, while the two with the -blanket make as much wind as they can, by working it up and down; the -chaff is blown away, while the wheat falls to the ground, and is at once -gathered into the sack, though not quite so clean as it would be with -our system.</p> - -<p>By two o’clock we were able to start, the cart being drawn by oxen, and, -owing to their slow discreet pace, it was pitch dark when we arrived at -the mill. At so late an hour grinding was out of the question; we -lighted our fire, broiled our supper, and laid down in the wagon to -sleep till daylight. But the night was so beautiful, the stars shining -so mildly down upon us,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_156" id="page_156"></a>{156}</span> the wind blowing so soft and warm through the -green branches, that we could not sleep, but went on talking. Both my -companions were Americans, one of them a strict Methodist, and there was -nothing more natural than that we should talk of the stars, then of -heaven, then of religion; and as we entertained very different views, -our conversation degenerated into a hot dispute, which was put an end to -about midnight by a heavy shower of rain, that forced us to seek shelter -for ourselves and our sacks.</p> - -<p>Next day we began to grind, and slow work it was, for we had to turn the -mill with our own oxen, who had no idea of inconveniencing themselves; -however, we managed to reach home the same night. The season was now far -enough advanced for the leaves of Indian corn to be stripped and laid up -as fodder for the winter. This plant, in the southern States, will grow -to a height of eleven or twelve feet, and often bears three cobs: the -white sort is the best for bread, the yellow, containing more sugar, is -best for fodder and for whiskey.</p> - -<p>On the 15th of August I received a letter from Uhl, telling me that he -was with my old acquaintance, the Rhenish-Bavarian, at Little Red river, -and that he was going to join Turowski in farming. I had too lively a -remembrance of the kindness of old Hilger not to take a walk to visit -him; therefore, as soon as our fodder was all in, I prepared for my -journey, and early on the 20th of August I shouldered my rifle, and, -with one of S.’s dogs by my side, set off in the hottest season of the -year through the dried swamp. The atmosphere was sultry in the extreme, -but by evening I had reached<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_157" id="page_157"></a>{157}</span> the bank of White river, a distance of -thirty-two miles, where I passed the night.</p> - -<p>I was ferried across at daybreak, and had forty miles to go to reach the -Little Red river. The south bank of the White is one of the most fertile -in America, on which account it rejoices in the name of “Oiltrove -bottom.” Some say that the soil is better than that of the American -bottom opposite St. Louis; and this is my opinion, having seen from -sixty to seventy bushels of maize to the acre, and pumpkins larger than -a man can lift. Trees grow to an enormous size, some of the trunks of -the sassafras trees measuring from five to six feet in diameter; pawpaw -trees are also very numerous. This last is a small tree bearing a fruit -about four or five inches long, and two to two and a half inches thick, -having a soft sweetish pulp, with numbers of oily kernels. Generally -speaking, the Americans do not value it much, though some are very fond -of it. It was not at all to my taste; its bark is very tough, and is -useful for a variety of purposes, amongst others for ropes. The valley -of the White river is full of these trees, and of the thick American -canes, or reeds, which form impenetrable thickets, and are the favorite -haunts of bears. Just now this fruit was quite out of favor, and even -the pigs would no longer eat it, when a distiller of the name of Magnus -tried its qualities, and extracted such a superior spirit from it, that -he declared he would not sell a drop of it, but keep it all for his own -drinking.</p> - -<p>Not to lose time, I had set off in the morning without breakfast, and by -the time I had walked six<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_158" id="page_158"></a>{158}</span> miles had a very respectable appetite. -Looking out for a house, I espied one about an hundred paces from the -path. The door was open, and the family were just sitting down to -breakfast; nothing better could be wished for. I sprang over the fence, -and asked a stout pale man if I could have something to eat by paying -for it; on receiving the expected answer I joined the company. Maize -bread, coffee, and bacon, the usual breakfast in this part of the world, -was spread out on the table, and I was preparing to set to with a will, -when the man sitting by my side, after looking at me with a mournful -expression, asked if I had ever in my life seen a man who was subject to -epilepsy. Now such a question could be nowhere more out of place than -when addressed to a hungry man sitting down to a good breakfast, so I -answered shortly, “Yes, sir.” “Well then,” said he, “don’t be surprised -if you see me attacked before breakfast is over, for at times it comes -on very suddenly.” If any one had told me that the meat on the table, -instead of good pork, was a piece of salted negro, it could not have -taken away my appetite more effectually than did this grave -announcement. I looked at the man in astonishment: he was very pale, and -looked serious, and not at all given to joking. I looked at his wife, -who was pale almost to transparency: I looked at the children, who were -also deadly pale, but more dirty than transparent. I gulped down the cup -of coffee in despair, gave the dog, who probably had not heard the -observation, or cared nothing for it, the bread off my plate, which he -eagerly took, paid my quarter dollar, the usual price for a breakfast, -and continued my journey.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_159" id="page_159"></a>{159}</span></p> - -<p>For some time I kept the broad road towards Batesville, then struck off -to the left through the forest, and, going tolerably fast, arrived -before sunset at the plantation of a widow named Pace, where I intended -to pass the night, having still ten miles to go to Little Red river, and -no other house near the path. The roof reflected the last beams of the -setting sun; my stomach, which had received nothing but the coffee since -the previous evening, was beginning to rejoice, when we both found -ourselves wofully disappointed—the lady was not at home. The slaves -dared not admit any stranger to sleep there. I should not have cared -about a roof to sleep under, for the nights were fine and warm, if only -I could have obtained something to eat; but this could not be, and I was -obliged to employ the fine warm night in walking on to the place of my -destination.</p> - -<p>After the sun had gone down, my light-colored, well-trodden path was -illuminated by the nearly full moon, for I had left the darker lowlands -some hours ago, and was traversing dry, but not very fruitful, hills, -through the midst of fir-trees. About two miles short of the river, I -gained the crest of the hills that divide the waters of the White and -Little Red rivers, just as the moon was setting, and my limbs felt as if -they were hung with lead. I had gone seventy miles since the previous -morning without tasting a regular meal, which was more than flesh and -blood could bear for any length of time, and at last I was so overcome -by fatigue that I sank down exhausted under a tree without even lighting -a fire. The poor dog lay by my side, resting his head on my arm. I might -have slept about<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_160" id="page_160"></a>{160}</span> three hours, for the first gleam of approaching day -was lighting up the eastern sky, when I was awakened by the loud, angry -bark of the dog. I jumped up, rifle in hand, but could see nothing and -hear nothing: I cheered on the dog, but in vain: he would not move from -my side, and only barked louder and louder. I fancied he might have -scented wolves, and was about to lie down again, when I distinctly heard -a rustling in the bush, although there was not a breath of wind. I -approached the place cautiously with both barrels cocked, but could -discover nothing; and as it was still dark, and no trail perceptible, I -could do no more, so lay down again for another short sleep, when I -suddenly heard the short piercing roar of a panther, which those who -have once heard never forget. My dog answered it with a slight whimper, -and crept closer to my side. I now knew the character of my nightly -visitor; and tolerably sure that, once frightened away, he would be in -no hurry to return, I was soon asleep, and remained so till awakened by -the cold air which always precedes the rising sun.</p> - -<p>As beautiful a panorama as I had ever beheld lay spread out before me. A -sea of forest as far as the eye could reach, in every shade of color, -from the darkest green to light blue—the Little Red river winding -through the midst of it, while a light downy mist hung about the tips of -the trees on its banks. To the west and south-west, the distant -mountains cut sharply in a mass of blue against the lighter morning sky. -Hills overgrown with pines rose above the darker extent of oak, like -islands floating in a deep green sea, as the sun’s rays were reflected -from the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_161" id="page_161"></a>{161}</span> dewy leaves. Light vapor rising here and there from the -valleys, curling over the forest, and vanishing into air, revealed the -site of human habitations hidden in the woods. I sat long, lost in -contemplation of the lovely scene, and again the question pressed itself -upon me—“Why must I enjoy it alone?” Then I remembered my visitor of -the past night, and, shaking off all mournful thoughts, looked out for -the trail; and there, hardly twenty paces from my bivouac, were the -marks of the large round paws of the beast impressed in the loose sand. -He had probably tried to creep up to me without being discovered, but -the dog had spoiled his sport.</p> - -<p>Refreshed by sleep, I hastened down the hill, found a canoe, which took -me over the river, and soon the well-known friendly abode of the -Rhenish-Bavarian shone invitingly before me. It seemed almost as if it -was my home, from which I had been long, long absent, and that all its -dear inmates would rush joyfully forward to embrace me. Alas for our -dreams!</p> - -<p>Hilger and his wife welcomed me with a hearty shake of the hand. I soon -felt myself at home and happy with these kind people, and I was not a -little delighted with the breakfast, which quickly adorned the table, -and which did not taste amiss after my long fast.</p> - -<p>Hilger had made vast improvements in his condition since I was here two -years ago. He had bought the land, had a pair of horses, several head of -cattle and pigs, and lived happy and independent in the circle of his -family, which, in the mean time had been increased by the birth of a -little prince. His two sons, of fifteen and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_162" id="page_162"></a>{162}</span> thirteen, were nice lads, -and worked hard with their father to make their way in the world happily -and honestly.</p> - -<p>Uhl came in in the afternoon from a place belonging to Von G., about two -miles off. He looked very pale and wretched, still suffering severely -from ague. I was delighted to pass a short time here among Germans, -where I could speak my mother-tongue to my heart’s content, and live -like a man. Peaches and watermelons grow here in great abundance, and -were a treat which I had long been deprived of.</p> - -<p>On the second day I went down the river to Von G.’s, who kept the ferry, -and in whose house I had passed the night two years ago, on my first -arrival. He received me kindly and hospitably. He was a keen sportsman -and capital shot, and was extremely lucky in shooting by torchlight, a -practice in which he had acquired such perfection as often to shoot -three or four deer in a night. On one night when I went out with him, he -shot a noble buck, hitting him right in the heart, although he could not -see his body, and could only judge of his position by the light -reflected from his eyes, and by their movement. I shall describe this -sort of shooting more particularly hereafter. I also attempted it, but -without success, from want of practice, having yet to learn all the fine -touches. We saw the eyes of three wolves, but they were frightened by -the fire, and would not come near us.</p> - -<p>My health was still far from good; and being one day wet through by a -sudden shower, I was again attacked by ague, and obliged to lie fallow -for a couple<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_163" id="page_163"></a>{163}</span> of days. As my illness came on at Von G.’s, he kindly -asked me to remain with him till I was better. I gratefully accepted the -invitation, and recovered in a few days, when I took a hearty farewell -of all my kind friends here, and returned to my marshes.</p> - -<p>On the fourth of September I crossed White river, and went on to Little -Cash river, passing a distillery, where they made maize whiskey, but -sold very little of it, as the three young men, who carried on business -in company, drank most of it themselves.</p> - -<p>The Cash was so shallow that I crossed it along a fallen tree, and, as -it began to rain, I stopped for the night at the house of a man named -Harriot. We had finished our simple supper, and were sitting comfortably -by a blazing fire, which was crackling up the chimney, when my host, -looking at me sideways, cleared his throat, and brought his chair a -little nearer to mine, then giving the quid of tobacco in his cheek an -extra turn, put to me the unexpected question—“How’s the king of -Spain?” I was rather disconcerted at first, and thought he wanted to -make fun of me, but when I saw by his countenance, that he was in -downright earnest, I replied gravely, that according to the last -accounts which I had received His Majesty was suffering from a severe -cold;—whereupon he expressed his sincere regret, and then inquired -after all the other crowned heads in Europe. As we proceeded in our -conversation, I found that by the king of Spain he meant Gustavus -Adolphus: he placed Francis the Second of Austria on the throne of -France; England was ruled by Constantine the Great; and Germany was -presented to Louis Philippe. I was much amused<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_164" id="page_164"></a>{164}</span> with his wild fantasies. -In the meanwhile he kept paying earnest devotion to the whiskey bottle, -offering it to me at the same time. I took a little at first, but -latterly only put it to my lips for show. The nearer we approached the -bottom of the bottle, the wilder danced their majesties across the magic -lantern of his imagination. And as we were taking into consideration the -case of Russia, which, by our united endeavors, had become a republic, -his head began to nod, and his chin had hardly touched his breast when -he began to snore. His wife, a simple soul, who had been brought up in -the woods, had listened to us with astonishment, and was still holding -her mouth open as I turned to seek my bed.</p> - -<p>My dreams transported me to my native land—not to the royal palaces I -had just left, but to my home, with its much-loved forms. On the 5th of -September, I arrived again at Saint’s, and indulged my body with some -necessary repose, shattered as it was by so many attacks of the ague. On -the 9th, Saint commenced his Indian corn harvest, which lasted till the -11th, and I gave my assistance. The cobs were simply broken away from -the stems, and cast into a cart which carried them to the building -prepared to receive them. When this work was done, we began -another—namely, to clear about half an acre more land, and sow it with -turnips.</p> - -<p>The western settlers, and particularly those in the south-western -states, are not very fond of hard work; in those wild regions they -prefer rearing cattle and shooting, to agriculture, and are loth to -undertake the hard work of felling trees and clearing land. To<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_165" id="page_165"></a>{165}</span> make the -labor as light as possible, yet still to increase their fields, they -generally clear a small space every autumn, and ploughing it very -slightly, sow it with turnips, which answer best for new ground. Next -year it is fenced in and added to the field.</p> - -<p>When about to make a clearing, the American looks out for the largest -and straightest oaks, which he fells, and slits into poles, from ten to -twelve feet long, for fencing. When he thinks he has enough for this -purpose, the rest is cut up and piled; next, the trees which have a -diameter of eighteen inches and under, are felled, at about half a yard -from the ground, and cut into lengths, while the larger trees are -girdled all round with the axe, and very soon die. The shrubs and bushes -are then rooted up with a heavy hoe, and, with the help of the neighbors -who are invited for the purpose, the whole, except the poles for the -fence, is rolled into a heap and set on fire.</p> - -<p>As soon as the land is cleared of all that can be easily removed it is -fenced in and ploughed. This last work is very severe, and gives the -ploughman and cattle many a rough shake, as the ploughshare, catching in -the roots, has constantly to be lifted out of the ground, or to be moved -out of the way of the standing stumps. These stumps give the fields a -very extraordinary appearance; it takes from six to ten years before -they rot away entirely. It sometimes happens that the trees killed by -girdling are blown down amongst the growing crops, and the settler has a -great deal of trouble in removing them.</p> - -<p>The land about Saint’s farm, when not inundated, was very fertile, and -required little labor. It produced<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_166" id="page_166"></a>{166}</span> splendid oaks, black and white -hickory, and sassafras, which last, though covering the land with -bushes, often grows to a large tree. Creepers of all sorts abounded in -the woods, amongst which were three sorts of wild vines, the first -producing a purple summer grape, which ripens in July, and resembles the -cultivated grape, except in being smaller and somewhat sour; the second, -winter grapes, also dark, and not ripe till they have been touched by -the frost,—properly speaking it is not a grape, and the berry is more -like a currant; last and best are the muscadines. These do not grow in -bunches, but more like cherries, four or five on a stem; they are -purple, with a thick skin, and a very agreeable taste, but if indulged -in too freely, they are said to produce ague, an opinion in which I -agree. Indeed, some of my attacks must be laid to their account; -quantities of muscadines grew where we were at work, and I ate a great -many of them. They ripen in September, and when they fall, they are -greedily sought for by pigs, bears, opossums, raccoons, and turkeys.</p> - -<p>As we had had hard work for some days, I resolved on taking a holiday, -and riding to the gunsmith’s, about twelve miles off, to get some -repairs to my rifle. When I awoke in the morning, I had a dreadful -head-ache, but I got up, and mounted the horse, hoping to drive away the -pain with the fresh morning air. I had hardly gone a mile, when I was -seized with such a giddiness, that I could with difficulty keep my seat. -I galloped back as fast as possible, and crept shivering under my -buffalo-skin, but the ague crept in with me and kept me there all that -day and night. The next<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_167" id="page_167"></a>{167}</span> morning I was so much worse, that I thought my -last hour was approaching. I took one of the emetics I had brought with -me from Cincinnati, but without effect; the fever changed from cold to -hot, and increased every hour. On the nights of the 16th and 17th of -September, I was delirious; what I may have said I know not, as they -told me that I spoke German.</p> - -<p>Saint could not procure a doctor. The nearest lived twenty miles off, -and was seldom at home: this probably saved my life, for had I fallen -into the hands of one of these American quacks, I might have prepared -for my last journey. Saint happened to have some pills in the house, -made by J. Sappington, and gave me one. Whether it was from the pill, or -my own good constitution, I was better on the 18th, and could move about -the house, and enjoy a little food, after my four days’ fast; I was very -weak for a long time. I must ever remember with gratitude the kind -interest with which these worthy Americans attended and nursed the poor -stranger.</p> - -<p>It was by no means agreeable to remain ill in the swamps, having shortly -before heard accounts of burials, which left it out of all doubt that -some of the poor creatures supposed to be dead had been buried alive. -Mrs. S. spoke of one case in particular, on the St. Francis river, where -the ground was so wet and swampy, that the man’s comrades, for they were -out on a shooting excursion, put the body into a canoe, and brought it -down to the place where the Saints then lived, and where the land was -dry. On account of the greater heat in the southern States, they do not -stand on so much ceremony with a dead body, as is the case in the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_168" id="page_168"></a>{168}</span> -north: so, as soon as they could after landing, they placed it in a -grave, which they dug with the assistance of the inhabitants of the -place. Mrs. S. assured me that she had never seen such a corpse. His -limbs were quite pliant, and almost warm, and his cheeks still red; but -the cold earth soon covered him, and nothing was ever said on the -subject.</p> - -<p>By the 29th September I was pretty well again, and helped S. to get in -the corn from the more distant field; but as it came on to rain, I was -none the better for it. On the first October an old man from Tennessee -came with his son to the marshes to buy cattle. We mounted to drive them -together that they might see them, for at this season, when the grass is -everywhere in abundance, the beasts do not remain in one place, but are -one day here, the next day there. There cannot be a better place in the -world for cattle than the marshes. In summer the woods are filled with -pea-vine as high as the knees, as well as with the finest grass, wild -oats, and wild rye; in the winter the evergreen canebrakes afford the -finest pasture for cattle and deer, and winter grass grows in many parts -of the marshes.</p> - -<p>We worked our way through thorns and creepers, reeds and forests, and -almost impenetrable sassafras bushes, and came back without having seen -a single horn. One of the consequences was that I was again laid up, but -this time I had a companion in the young stranger, who had thus to pay -his footing in the swamps. On the second day he was so ill that his life -was despaired of; but at last he recovered.</p> - -<p>On the 7th October I rode for the sake of exercise, towards a settlement -about twelve miles off. It began<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_169" id="page_169"></a>{169}</span> to get dark when I reached the house -of a Mrs. Lane, who seeing me look so wretched and worn, kindly invited -me to rest there. Mrs. Lane might be held up as a good specimen of -American women. She was very simply dressed, but in good taste, and -every thing in the house, where she lived with her two daughters, -remarkably pretty girls, was scrupulously neat and clean.</p> - -<p>They listened with pleasure to my accounts of distant Europe, the sort -of life people led there, the luxury of the rich and the misery of the -poor, particularly in large towns, the general fondness for society, and -the good qualities of many of all stations, high and low; they shook -their heads and said, “The other side of the great ocean must be a -curious place!” It was late when I rolled myself in a blanket before the -fire, to sleep sweetly and calmly during the night. In the morning my -headache returned, and shivering limbs announced the enemy. There was no -time for delay; I buckled the girths with trembling hands, and went in -to take leave: the kind folks had some hot coffee ready for me, which -might delay but could not prevent the attack. I went on about three -miles to the smithy, and explained my wishes, and then turned the -horse’s head toward the house of Mr. Dunn: how I got there is more than -I can say,—I have a faint remembrance of a piercing headache, and -dreadful weakness—that I often lay upon the horse’s neck, when the -gentle animal stood still, and did not move till I could sit upright -again. Dunn’s house was about three miles from the smith’s; on arriving, -I slipped off rather than dismounted. The old man soon saw what was the -matter<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_170" id="page_170"></a>{170}</span> with me, and bringing out a glass of some green liquid, he made -me take a good gulp of it: its excessive bitterness seemed to cut me in -two, and I asked with horror what was the stuff he had given me. He -laughed at the face I made, and told me it was something quite new and -his own invention: it was bear’s gall and whiskey, and he was not a -little proud of his medicine. I slept well during the night, and -returned to S.’s next day. I was very sorry not to have been in better -condition on the evening that I passed at Dunn’s, for he was a good old -fellow, and very amusing with his dry stories.</p> - -<p>On the evening of the 18th October, S. came back from Strong’s, where he -had bought a couple of negro children, and brought them home on a led -horse. One was a boy about fifteen years old, as black as pitch, and -with a regular Ethiopian cast of countenance; as he crossed the -threshold, he examined every one present, with a rapid glance of his -large dark eyes, and then looked unconcernedly at all the furniture, -&c., as if all that was of no consequence to him. The other was a little -girl of about eleven, who seemed already to have gone through some hard -work. When she saw so many strange faces, a tear glittered in her eyes: -she had been sold away from her parents, whom she would probably never -more behold, and stood an image of suppressed grief. The boy was from -Maryland, had been taken by sea to New Orleans, and from thence brought -here. He had been told that he had fallen to a kind master, and his -countenance seemed to say that was enough, happen what might.</p> - -<p>On the following Sunday, I had another attack of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_171" id="page_171"></a>{171}</span> ague, which I could -not shake off for some days. In the evening two strangers arrived; and -although they came from opposite directions, they seemed to be well -acquainted, as they frequently conversed in a whisper. After supper, -when we were in the second house, where we all slept, they consulted -together about their future plans, which consisted in no less than their -travelling about the country, and keeping a gaming table, pretending all -the while to be unknown to each other, and so playing into each other’s -hands: their designs were to be principally carried on among the -Indians, particularly the Cherokees, as they thought they were more -easily cheated than the whites. But perhaps the two scoundrels had not -been able to agree, for on the following morning they parted, one of -them passing off a false five-dollar note on S., who was not a little -annoyed when he some time afterwards made the discovery. I was about to -ride in the same direction that the other fellow took, and when he saw -my horse saddled, he expressed his delight at having the pleasure of my -company; but I said dryly: “I am not going to ride with a scoundrel.” At -the word “scoundrel,” he flew into a rage, and began to feel for his -knife or pistol, on which I quietly brought my rifle to my shoulder: he -bit his lip and rode off at a sharp trot. After waiting a short time I -followed, taking the route to Cash river to bring home some dogs, for S. -and I saw nothing more of him.</p> - -<p>Arkansas was overrun at this time with a number of bad characters, -gamblers, drunkards, thieves, murderers, who all thought that the -simple-minded backwoodsmen were easier to be cheated than the wary<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_172" id="page_172"></a>{172}</span> -settlers in the older states. This circumstance had given so bad a name -to Arkansas, that many thought all its inhabitants went about armed to -the teeth with pistols and bowie-knives; but I have traversed the State -in all directions, and met with as honest and upright people as are to -be found in any other part of the Union.</p> - -<p>On the 24th October, two heavily laden carts arrived, each drawn by one -horse: they contained all sorts of things useful for settlers. Their -owners are called peddlers, and they ask high prices for their goods, -and are said to make a good thing of it. S. bought only a few trifles.</p> - -<p>S. having sold most of his cattle, decided on parting with this farm, -and removing to Oiltrove bottom. Our contract having been dissolved by -Uhl’s departure and my frequent sickness, was no longer to be thought -of. Preparations were made for moving; S. had been already to White -river and made his purchase. When about to start, we found that two more -oxen were necessary: we had four, but the load was too heavy with such -soft boggy roads. So we rode into the woods, and drove a couple of wild -bulls into the inclosure, threw nooses over their horns, and fastened -them to trees. They made tremendous efforts to free themselves, jerking -the leather thongs with all their force; and when they found all their -struggles were in vain, they threw themselves on the ground and bellowed -with rage. Thus they remained all the day and night, during which we -gave them nothing but a little water to quench their thirst. About nine -o’clock next morning they were yoked each with a steady old<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_173" id="page_173"></a>{173}</span> hand; the -whips cracked, voices shouted, and partly from the shower of blows that -fell on them, partly dragged along by their stout companions, after four -or five hours’ useless opposition, they went as well as if they had done -nothing all their lives but draw a cart.</p> - -<p>The heavy wagon made slow progress along the muddy tracts, softened by -the autumnal rains. We arrived at White river on the morning of the 4th -November, and had to wait on the bank till evening, as it was blowing a -storm, and it would have been dangerous to trust the heavy wagon to the -ferry-boat in such weather.</p> - -<p>White river is beyond all dispute the most beautiful river of Arkansas. -Its clear waves form a striking contrast to those of the Mississippi and -Red river; only towards its mouth the banks are low, and the land -swampy; higher up it is enclosed by picturesque hills. It rises in the -Ozark mountains, in the north-west angle of the State, where there is -game in abundance; it divides into two arms, one of which falls into the -Mississippi, and the other into the Arkansas.</p> - -<p>As the wind fell, the dry cold air changed into a damp fog, which soon -turned to rain, and we were glad to find shelter under the roof of a -free negro, who kept a sort of tavern. Merry peals of laughter resounded -from the well-lighted room, where a bright fire was blazing, and very -comfortable did its warmth appear to us after our exposure to the -weather. Three jovial looking fellows were sitting round it, telling -stories, and roaring with laughter. Three long American<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_174" id="page_174"></a>{174}</span> rifles, with -their shot-belts hanging on them, leaning in a corner, showed that the -party, if not regular woodsmen, were at least out on a shooting -excursion. A half empty whiskey-bottle stood on the table, and after a -short conversation, I learnt that the little fat man, with sparkling -eyes and ruby nose, sitting enjoying himself in the corner, and making -constant love to the whiskey-bottle, was Magnus the distiller, who, with -a couple of friends, was on his way to the swamps from whence we came, -for the sake of buffalo hunting. The little man drank my health, and -amused me very much with his drolleries. He could think of nothing but -buffaloes, swore only by buffaloes, made bets in buffalo-skins, -estimated every thing by their value, and tormented the small modicum of -understanding which the whiskey had left in his brains, to devise how he -should be able to transport at the greatest advantage the skins of all -the buffaloes he meant to kill.</p> - -<p>It was all in vain that I attempted to give him an idea of the almost -impenetrable swamps, of the difficulty of finding the few buffaloes -which were there, and of the almost impossibility when found of bringing -their skins or any other part away; his countenance bore the same -joyous, amicable expression as before. When I had finished my remarks, -he handed me the bottle, which I put to my lips without drinking. In a -voice trembling with emotion, he assured me that he was prepared to -venture every thing, even life itself, for the sake of killing a -buffalo, and when life was at stake, who could take into consideration a -few insignificant<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_175" id="page_175"></a>{175}</span> swamp-holes or thorns! And then, as it struck him -that he was a father of a family, his voice became weaker and more -tremulous, his emotion increased, a flood of tears gushed from his eyes, -and before I was aware, the little round figure was hanging to my neck. -The heavy weight forced from me a sigh, which he took for sympathy, and -he began to squeeze so hard that I was afraid I should be suffocated, -when his two friends, who had been more moderate with the bottle, sprang -to my rescue. But this was no easy matter, and as he clung to me he -cried out, “Let me alone! he’s my friend—he, he will save me!” I -escaped from him by a sudden wrench, and his companions carried him off -to bed, he all the while throwing about his little fat arms and legs, -and calling them good-for-nothing buffalo dogs. Then he again began to -whine and cry, the sounds changing gradually, first into a groan and -then into a snore.</p> - -<p>We arrived at the new farm about noon next day, and found the former -proprietors loading their wagon. They took their leave in the afternoon, -and left as a memorial an incredible quantity of dirt. As soon as our -wagon was cleared, and the things under cover, S. returned with the two -drivers for another load, leaving me in the house alone. It was in the -midst of a thick forest, with a field of about seven acres, surrounded -by the largest trees. But I had not much time to contemplate the -beauties of Nature, for in unloading and stowing away, the hours had -flown on the wings of the wind. The sun had set before I had collected -wood from the forest to keep up a fire for the night, or had had time to -prepare my supper; the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_176" id="page_176"></a>{176}</span> latter duty did not take long, for my whole -store of provisions consisted of maize flour, dried venison, and wild -honey.</p> - -<p>Darkness, thick darkness, lay upon the slumbering earth: yielding up my -imagination to memorials of old times, I drew the solitary chair to the -blazing fire, took out my zither, and with soft mournful tones, soothed -the home-sickness, which in loneliness forces itself on the heart. After -a time, overcome by fatigue, I extended myself on my buffalo skin before -the fire, and soon a succession of fantastic dreams flitted across my -brain. The little fat distiller sat with me and mine in a garden at -Leipzig, relating all the hardships and dangers which he had undergone -at the buffalo hunt, while my dear mother listened to him with -astonishment: many other loved forms were sitting round a large table, -each with their coffee before them, when we were all disturbed by a loud -knocking at the gate, and started up to see what was the matter, except -the little distiller, who laughingly told us it was only a tame buffalo -that he had tied up at the gate. The knocking growing louder and louder, -I jumped up in alarm: the fire was burnt out, thick darkness surrounded -me, but the repeated loud knocking shook off the remains of sleep, and I -hastened to the door.</p> - -<p>One of the drivers who had left the day before, stepped into the room, -his teeth chattering with ague. I made haste to light the fire, which -soon burnt up brightly, and then looked to my patient, who had sunk down -on a chair, telling me with a weak voice that his last hour was come. -Luckily, I had some coffee at hand, and made him drink a couple of cups -as hot as<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_177" id="page_177"></a>{177}</span> possible, sweetened with honey. He then threw himself on the -skin and was soon asleep. Next day he was somewhat better, and we passed -the time as well as we could, till S. should come with his second load. -I employed myself in collecting wood for the fire, and in shooting -turkeys, to make our provisions last. After a week, during the last days -of which we had lived on turkeys and pumpkins, taking the latter, which -were very sweet and delicate, from the field of a neighbor at no great -distance, S. arrived with the rest of his property, cows, horses, pigs, -geese, cats, chickens, and dogs. Then there was all the bustle of -arranging and settling, and then another attack of ague, which seemed -regularly to have fixed itself on me in this unhealthy country. I bore -up against it, but was not well enough to mount a horse till the 20th -November, when I took a ride of four or five miles with my rifle, for a -breath of fresh air.</p> - -<p>These swamps and morasses partly realize the idea which Europeans -entertain of the primitive forest, but in which they are frequently -deceived, for the simple reason, that on the higher dry grounds which -are covered with dry leaves and wood, fires are often made, not only by -shooting parties, but by the settlers, for the sake of the grass, which -comes up all the sooner when all these enormous quantities of leaves, -&c., have been burnt; and the fire does not consume the young plants -only, but considerably checks the growth of the older trees, excepting -in the marshes, where the ground even in summer is moist; and there the -trees grow to a colossal grandeur—I have seen some measuring seven, -eight, and even nine feet in diameter.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_178" id="page_178"></a>{178}</span></p> - -<p>Towards evening I saw a young buck, walking quietly and circumspectly -through the wood; I dismounted, and left the horse to graze at leisure, -while I crept nearer. He stopped when he saw the horse pawing the -ground, raised his handsome head, and snuffed the air; my ball whistled -through his ribs, and he fell lifeless to the ground. Weak as I was, it -was some time before I could lift the not very large animal on to the -horse, when I rode slowly homewards. Just before dark, I shot a turkey -with the other barrel, and did not load again, not expecting to get -another shot so late in the evening. The full moon set its soft silvery -light among the dark shadows of the trees, to point out my path. I might -have ridden for about an hour and a half through the thick forest on my -heavily laden horse, and had gained a cattle track, which led to the -house; the stillness of the night was broken by the cow-bells, the -baying of the dogs and the neigh of my horse, in expectation of a good -supper, when there was a sudden rustling among the bushes on my right. I -pulled up, and a herd of swine rushed in wild haste across the path, -just in front of me. I was about to ride on, when I heard further -rustling amongst the dry leaves, and then one of the largest bears of -the swamps stood in the path, not above six paces from my horse’s nose. -He did not seem to know what to make of the figure looming through the -glade of the forest by the light of the moon, and began to snuff the -air. My rifle was not loaded, and the thought flashed upon me, that I -should have to fight it out with the knife; but I resolved first to try -and send him a bit of lead. I placed the butt of my gun on my left toe, -and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_179" id="page_179"></a>{179}</span> succeeded in loading; but, as I was about to place the copper cap, -the horse, who had hitherto stood quite still, seemed inclined to -examine the object before him a little closer, and giving a snort he -made a step forward. Master Bruin, however, did not seem to like this, -and with one bound he was in the jungle. Having finished my loading, I -slipped off my horse, and crept into the bushes to get a shot, if -possible. I may have gone about twenty paces over the dry leaves, when I -stood still to listen. Not the slightest sound was to be heard; though I -was firmly convinced that the bear could not be above ten paces off, for -the leaves were so dry that if he had gone further I must have heard it. -I raised my foot gently to make another step forward, when the bear, who -had been standing so motionless before me that I took him for the root -of a fallen tree, almost brushed my face, and took himself off with a -growl; before I could recover from my surprise he had disappeared.</p> - -<p>I returned, quite disappointed, to my horse, who remained quietly -grazing, and rode away with two good resolutions in my head,—first, -never to go a step with my gun unloaded; secondly, to seek a nearer -acquaintance with Bruin on the morrow, if possible.</p> - -<p>On the 22nd November, I was early afoot, and although the weather was -cold and disagreeable, I set off with a neighbor and eleven dogs, full -of joyous hopes.</p> - -<p>Bear-shooting in America differs according to the time of the year, and -the habits of the animal. It was now late in the autumn, almost winter, -so that they could be hunted with dogs. Well mounted, with<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_180" id="page_180"></a>{180}</span> not less -than from four to about eight or ten dogs, the hunters seek in the -thickest and most unfrequented parts of the forest the favorite haunts -of the bear. The men ride slowly through the thorns and creepers, the -dogs seeking in all directions till they find a fresh trail, or a bear -breaks cover, when they follow up in full cry. If the bear is fat he -seldom runs far, but takes to a tree, or shows fight; if there are not -dogs enough to master him, he knocks them over and continues his flight. -If he takes to a tree, his fate is soon sealed by the rifle.</p> - -<p>We had ridden along quietly for about an hour, when the dogs gave -tongue, and started off, we after them as well as we could. My horse was -an old hand at it, and I had nothing to do but to sit fast as he leaped -the fallen trees, and try to avoid the creepers, which however often -checked, and sometimes threw us.</p> - -<p>Keeping up with the dogs was out of the question. I had long lost sight -of my companion; I listened, and it appeared that the bear had turned to -the left, towards the river; could he reach it he was safe,—it was too -cold for the dogs—besides, they would hardly venture to swim, and we -also must have remained on the bank.</p> - -<p>I changed my course to cut him off, and luckily hit upon one of the -cattle tracks that cross the wood in all directions. Once clear of the -thorns, we went at a good pace, and soon heard the pack approaching. -Suddenly the horse swerved to one side with a snort, and the bear burst -out of the thicket. The moment he saw the horse, he stopped short and -gave a deep growl. I had sprung off, and the bear had hardly</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_180a" id="page_180a"></a>{180a}</span></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_180b" id="page_180b"></a>{180b}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/p180bi_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/p180bi_sml.jpg" width="301" height="500" alt="[Image unavailable: BRUIN AT BAY.]" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">BRUIN AT BAY.</span> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_181" id="page_181"></a>{181}</span></p> - -<p class="nind">stopped, when my ball was in his shoulder. The pack was close upon him, -and he summoned all his strength to escape from the dogs; but the -wounded shoulder checked his pace, the dogs attacked him, and he rose on -his hind legs to oppose them. I could not venture a second shot for fear -of injuring some of them, so charged him with my knife, and plunged it -from behind the shoulder into his heart; this, with the furious bites of -the dogs, soon ended his life.</p> - -<p>My companion arrived at this moment, tired to death, all torn with the -thorns, and his horse covered with foam. He was not a little vexed at -coming too late; however, he helped to break up the bear, and strip off -his skin,—and as each of us had a bag under the saddle, we divided the -prize, and rode slowly home. The carcase is always equally divided -amongst the hunters; the skin belongs to the first shot.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/p181i_sml.jpg" width="51" height="53" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_182" id="page_182"></a>{182}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VII" id="CHAPTER_VII"></a>CHAPTER VII.</h2> - -<p class="chead">WOODLAND SPORTS—CANE-BRAKES—MY EXAMINATION BY THE SCHOOL COMMISSION.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Turkey hunting with dogs—American aptitude for barter—Hard life -in the woods—Ague—Wolves—Unhousing a bear—Number of widows in -the swamps—Postal system in the back states—Comfortable -quarters—My musical propensities—The Mississippi at -Memphis—Cincinnati and its German inhabitants—Our pill-box -manufactory—My speculations in reeds—Democrats in America—The -candidates for schoolmastership—My examination—Another cane -trip—Buffalo shooting.</p></div> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">The</span> weather became worse every day. The cold north wind blew furiously -through the leafless boughs of the gigantic trees. All crowded together -round the warm hearth, and the European began to long for the solid -walls and warm rooms of his native land; for the wind blows, on all -sides, through the crevices of the American block-houses; and as they -are without windows, the door must be left open the livelong day to -admit the necessary light. Thus it may be imagined, that in spite of the -enormous fire, the temperature is not even moderate. In addition, we had -nothing to eat but bear’s flesh, three times a day; so I put on my thick -flannel hunting-shirt, took my rifle, and made up my mind to shoot a -turkey, whereat the dogs began bounding and barking for joy.</p> - -<p>Turkey hunting with dogs is one of the most<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_183" id="page_183"></a>{183}</span> amusing and convenient -sports in the world. As soon as the dogs find a <i>gang</i>, as they are -called, they run amongst them, barking furiously; although a turkey can -run fast, he cannot outrun a dog;—so by way of escape, he flies heavily -to the nearest tree, generally seeking the highest branches, and looks -inquisitively from his exalted station, on the dogs jumping and yelping -round the trunk. It now requires some good management on the part of the -sportsman, for should the turkey catch sight of him, he will fly away -again. The best plan is to make as much noise as possible, and, if the -party is large enough to surround the tree, or the gang, breaking -through the bushes with loud shouts; and while the bird is confused by -the strange noises, the sportsman, having got near enough, must slip -behind a tree. Then it requires a steady hand and correct eye to hit, -with a single ball, a turkey at the top of a tree, from 130 to 140 feet -high; it is not absolutely necessary that he be killed outright, for if -a wing is wounded, his heavy weight will infallibly kill him in his -fall. A hen turkey weighs from nine to fourteen pounds; the cock from -sixteen to twenty, and even twenty-four. I killed three, and returned -heavily laden home.</p> - -<p>On the 21st December came the last load from l’Anguille, and another -attack of ague for me. This was altogether too much,—I decided on -bidding adieu to the unhealthy swamps, and trying the hills, and on the -4th January put my plan in execution. Saint had taken a strong liking to -my double-barrelled rifle, and repeatedly wished to exchange something -for it. This system of exchange is quite a passion with the Americans;<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_184" id="page_184"></a>{184}</span> -they will barter any thing—lands, houses, horses, cattle, guns, -clothes, even to the shirt and boots they have on—or, if you prefer it, -they are just as willing to sell. Saint had a very good long rifle, and -we soon settled the matter, by my taking it, and a good sum into the -bargain.</p> - -<p>I soon found that I was no longer master of my former powers, as when I -knew the word “tired” only by name. Frequent attacks of ague had robbed -my muscles of their elasticity: with all my exertions, I could hardly -accomplish more than twenty miles the first day, and had enough to do to -make thirteen the next; in the evening, tired to death, I arrived at Von -G.’s, on the Little Red river. Next day it came on to rain heavily, and -I considered myself fortunate in having a good roof over my head. I -remained with Von G. till the 9th, when I went to my old friend Hilger. -I passed a few very pleasant weeks with him, helped the old fellow at -his work now and then, but generally went out turkey shooting. I was -treated as one of the family. But my restless spirit and desire for -change, which drove me away from every place where I had made friends, -would not allow me to remain here; I must away, for the peaceful life of -the happy family caused me mournful thoughts: to escape them, I -determined to return to the swamps, as in winter the danger was less -imminent.</p> - -<p>The Hilgers begged me to remain, but the spirit which possessed me was -too strong for them, and I took a warm leave of them all; the children, -however, would not hear of my departure, and the little three-year-old -girl was only to be pacified by a promise that<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_185" id="page_185"></a>{185}</span> she should go with me. -The dear little thing actually put on her bonnet, accompanied me for a -quarter of a mile, and then her brother had to carry her home by force; -my eyes moistened as she held forth her little hand, and called out my -name.</p> - -<p>On, on, without delay, till the evening of the 25th January saw me at -Bay de View, a little river running between, and parallel to, the Cash -and l’Anguille. I pitched my camp on one of the many old Indian -sepulchral mounds there. Deer and turkeys were plentiful, but, like the -little distiller, the idea of a buffalo hunt had got fixed in my head. -So on the 27th I followed the course of the stream, through the wild -forest, and at night, beside the crackling fire, gave myself up to -troubled thoughts. I had become so used to forest life, that I seldom -required the compass; in the level marshy land, with its straight -gigantic trees, the traveller can easily find his way by paying -attention to the moss, which grows much longer and fuller on the north -side than on the south.</p> - -<p>In a day or two it began to freeze; as the ground was covered with -water, in many places knee deep, the noise I made in breaking the ice -drove away all the game within hearing. On the 28th and 29th January, I -could not get a shot, and lived on the remains of a turkey, and some -maize I had in my pockets. On the 30th I had nothing but the maize, -which I roasted and devoured with the greatest appetite; but instead of -appeasing my hunger, it only served to excite it the more, and I began -seriously to chew tender stems of sassafras, in order to have something -in my stomach.</p> - -<p>My baggage was no great burden to me. At<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_186" id="page_186"></a>{186}</span> White river I had exchanged my -buffalo skin for a blanket—I had one spare shirt in my game-bag, with a -pair of rather woful looking socks, a small cord, a bullet mould, and a -few bits of lead; but my greatest incumbrance was the zither, which hung -over my shoulder. Yet it fully repaid me for all my trouble, when I -reposed by the fire after the day’s toil, and I never could have -prevailed on myself to leave it in the lurch.</p> - -<p>Towards evening, as, still suffering from raging hunger, I was looking -out for a dry spot to sleep on, I felt it growing colder every moment; I -made haste to light a good fire, and threw myself before it completely -exhausted. A hard frost came on, and a little later I was delighted to -see it begin to snow. I coiled myself up as well as I could and was soon -asleep. I was awakened in the night by the frightful howling of the -wolves, which probably had no better sport than myself, and I consoled -myself with the idea that perhaps they were only half as hungry. I got -up several times during the night to shake off the snow, and feed the -fire with the large logs I had collected the evening before; so that, -notwithstanding the severity of the cold, I enjoyed a comfortable -warmth.</p> - -<p>A bough breaking with the weight of snow, roused me out of my sleep, and -when I pulled the blanket from my eyes they were nearly blinded by the -bright reflection of the sun’s rays from the white surface. The snow -suited my purposes very well; I rubbed my hands and face with it, till -they were quite in a glow, and having no breakfast to cook, I was soon -on the march. Though weakened by my long fast, my good night<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_187" id="page_187"></a>{187}</span>’s rest and -reawakend hope inspired me with new force, and I lost no time in seeking -something to appease my ravenous appetite, as I roamed at random under -the heavily laden trees. The evening before, I had discovered, near my -sleeping place, an overcup oak, bearing sweet acorns, some of which I -gathered and devoured, so as not to leave my stomach entirely -unemployed. This tree grows to a great size, but only in the -marshes;—the leaves are small, and the acorn is covered by the cup, -with the exception of a small opening at the top, whence the name. It is -nearly round, and serves for food in case of need, being less bitter -than the common sort. Bears are particularly fond of it.</p> - -<p>I had not gone far from my bivouac when I came on the fresh trail of an -old buck, which I followed up swiftly and silently through snow half a -foot deep, passing several places where he had lain down. After -following the track for about three hours, it became confused, but as I -was forcing my way through a thickly tangled thorn-bush, the buck stood -before me, looking at me with inquiring eyes. Ere I could clear myself -of the good-for-nothing creepers, he was off again, leaving me to admire -the immense leaps he had made in the commencement of his flight; his -third leap had been over a bush from eight to nine feet high, and from -the spot where he took off to that where he lighted was about twenty -feet. I found that he had soon slackened his pace to a walk, so -quickening my steps, I followed him cautiously. I saw him a second time -standing in a thicket about a hundred paces off, and evidently on the -look-out; I had no hopes of getting<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_188" id="page_188"></a>{188}</span> nearer, so took steady aim and -fired: he gave a start on one side, then fled in wild haste through the -thick jungle. I was now certain of him, so loaded quietly and walked to -the spot where he had been standing. The snow was discolored with blood, -and a broad stripe of large dark red spots pointed out the path he had -taken.</p> - -<p>Being somewhat exhausted by the sharp pace, and wishing to allow the -poor beast to lie down in peace, I seated myself on a fallen tree. After -half an hour’s rest, I followed him again; unfortunately he had made for -the river, to lave his burning wound in its cool waves, and, having swum -across, he was lying dead on the snow, on the other side, in a pool of -blood.</p> - -<p>Had I not been half starved, I should not have thought of venturing into -the cold water; but necessity would admit of no hesitation. I bound -together some logs of decayed wood, as floating lightest, laid on the -raft my rifle, zither, blanket, hunting-shirt, powder-horn, gamebag, and -shirt, and stepped into the icy-cold water. I kept on my lower garments, -as they were already wet through from the small streams I had waded in -the course of the chase. I dipped my head as soon as I could, and then -swam across, pushing my raft before me.</p> - -<p>Shivering with cold, I had some difficulty in making a fire, on account -of the deep snow which covered every thing;—but I managed it at last -with the help of my tomahawk; dried myself, and having laid some steaks -on the fire, I devoured them ere they were well warmed through.</p> - -<p>The exertion of the chase and the cold bath was too<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_189" id="page_189"></a>{189}</span> much for my -weakened frame. I threw myself down by the fire, and soon felt another -attack of ague. The shivering fit lasted full two hours, and seemed the -worst I had ever experienced: it was succeeded by a hot fit, which made -me forget ice and snow. Towards evening I was somewhat better, but not -in condition to continue my journey; so I cleared away the snow, piled -it up like a wall to keep off the wind, collected a good store of wood -and slept calmly and sweetly through the night. Next day the ague had -left me, but I felt very weak, and remained all day extended before my -warm fire, enjoying my venison. Towards evening I took a little turn for -the sake of exercise, and to see if I could get a shot, returning to my -old quarters to sleep, and setting out next day for the long desired -buffalo.</p> - -<p>I struck off in a southerly direction, and had lounged along for about a -couple of hours, when I came to a place where at least twenty of these -creatures must have passed the previous night. I lost no time in -following the broad trail of the herd down the bank of the river. After -a time, the trail turned suddenly to the northward. As it grew dark, I -lighted a good fire and laid down, having cleared away the snow. It was -dreadfully cold. The wolves howled fearfully, but did not come near me.</p> - -<p>After a good breakfast, I again followed up the trail, which ran zigzag -and in all directions, and when I laid down again for the night I knew -that I could not be very far from my prey. I slept under the shelter of -a fallen tree, which kept off the wind, and the fire burnt brightly. -About midnight, the wind changed from north-west to south-west, of which -I did<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_190" id="page_190"></a>{190}</span> not much approve, for the sky foreboded a change. Dark masses of -cloud assembled in the south, and the air became perceptibly warmer. I -dreaded the consequences.</p> - -<p>On the 5th of February it began to thaw, yet I would not all at once -give up my hopes of the buffaloes, till several abortive attempts to -find the trail convinced me of the fruitlessness of further pursuit. -Shower followed shower. In a few hours all the beautiful snow had -disappeared, leaving a waste of waters, in which no trail was visible.</p> - -<p>I had now to ponder within myself what was best to be done, but the -approaching night soon settled that matter. The darkness and pouring -rain informed me that there was nothing to be attempted at present. A -fire was out of the question, and I cowered under a half-fallen tree, to -be sheltered as much as possible from the rain. I had some broiled -venison in my bag, but felt no appetite, and passed a miserable night, -shivering with cold. The wolves seemed almost tame, for some came within -a few paces of me, and howled awfully. I was in such a state of -despondency that I would not take the trouble to draw my knife, because -I should have had to move; besides, in the humor I was in, it almost -seemed that to be shaken by wolves till I was warm would have been -rather pleasant than otherwise.</p> - -<p>I did not close an eye the whole night, and longed eagerly for the first -gleam of day, which at last broke gloomily through the dark forest.</p> - -<p>The rain ceased, and a damp thin mist lay upon the swamp. I cut a slice -of venison, and all my salt being</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_190a" id="page_190a"></a>{190a}</span></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_190b" id="page_190b"></a>{190b}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/p190bi_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/p190bi_sml.jpg" width="326" height="500" alt="[Image unavailable: NOCTURNAL ENTERTAINMENT.]" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">NOCTURNAL ENTERTAINMENT.</span> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_191" id="page_191"></a>{191}</span></p> - -<p class="nind">expended, sprinkled it with powder, and ate it, cold and dry as it was.</p> - -<p>The almost impenetrable swamps and the wretched weather, together with -my long solitude, had considerably cooled my shooting propensities, and -I resolved to seek human society. To get clear of the swamps as soon as -possible, I directed my steps to the north-east, towards the St. Francis -river, in hopes of finding letters from Cincinnati, or perhaps from -home, at Strong’s post-office, as I had written for them to be forwarded -there.</p> - -<p>A few dry strips of land ran across the country from north to south, the -intermediate spaces being about a foot or a foot and a half under water, -with here and there channels three or four feet deep. Worn out and -wretched as I felt from the frequent attacks of ague, I had twice to -swim through the icy water, but the word “must” carried me through. In -fact, I had the choice of that or perishing in the swamp. The first -alternative was merely disagreeable, while the latter was highly -objectionable; so I chose the former.</p> - -<p>I passed the night by a warm fire, at which I roasted a turkey I had -shot. It was at any rate an improvement on its predecessor, and my -zither responded through the forest to the voices of the owls and -wolves.</p> - -<p>Next morning I resumed my north-east direction with fresh strength, and -was not a little surprised about nine o’clock by a smell of smoke. Soon -afterwards I came on the fresh remains of a fire. The impressions on the -leaves showed clearly enough that only one person had lain there, and -that he had four dogs with him. About twenty paces from the fire<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_192" id="page_192"></a>{192}</span> some -grains of Indian corn were scattered about, and a tree showed signs that -a horse, who had left unmistakable marks of his teeth in the bark, had -been tethered there.</p> - -<p>According to appearances, this person had not left his halting-place -above an hour, and as the dew and hoar frost still lay on the leaves and -grass, his trail towards the south-east was easily traceable. After -following for a short distance, I heard a shot, hastened towards the -sound, and came up just as the object of my search was mounting his -horse. A broken-up deer was hanging to a tree, and four dogs came -barking towards me. It turned out to be a man of the name of Pearce, a -dweller in the neighborhood, with whom I was slightly acquainted. We -greeted each other heartily, and were mutually delighted at the chance -meeting, he assuring me that nothing could have given him greater -pleasure than falling in with me, as he had discovered a tree a few days -back in which the marks left it out of doubt that a bear must be -concealed. He had killed the deer as he came along, and hung it up, -intending to carry it home on his return. I readily accepted his -proposal to join him, and we hastened towards Brushy lake, which we soon -reached, but too far south;—so we had to go up the stream.</p> - -<p>As we were both tired, we bivouacked early in the afternoon, on an -elevated tract of land, and stretched ourselves comfortably before a -warm fire. I had half a turkey remaining, and Pearce had bear, deer, and -coffee, so I need hardly say that we made a good dinner.</p> - -<p>We passed a quiet night, and the sun was well up before we commenced our -march. About ten o’clock<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_193" id="page_193"></a>{193}</span> P. pointed out a large cypress close to the -bank of the river, assuring me that the bear was there. The tree may -have been about four feet in diameter, and there were very distinct -traces of a bear’s claws in the bark. P. had intended to smoke out the -sleeper; but that would have required much time, and as we were now two, -and the tree was quite hollow at the base, we resolved to cut it down -with our tomahawks. Securing the horse at a safe distance, we set to -work, and the forest soon resounded with the strokes of our small axes. -About two o’clock we paused to take a little refreshment; the dogs, -meantime, tired of waiting, amused themselves in chasing rabbits and -raccoons.</p> - -<p>We had hardly recommenced our work, when P. cried, “Look out! the bear!” -At the first word I had seized my rifle. The bear was down the tree like -a flash of lightning; to fire, drop the gun, out knife, and at him, was -the work of an instant for each of us; but he slipped off like an eel -from between us, and our knives had nearly found a different sheath; so -exactly had our shots fallen together, that neither knew the other had -fired.</p> - -<p>The bear, so discourteously roused from his winter sleep, could not at -first make out the reason. But the approach of the dogs, attracted by -the shots, soon caused him to take to flight. P., rifle in hand, threw -himself on his horse, and galloped after them, I following, with my -drawn knife, as fast as my legs would carry me. The bear, severely -wounded, did not run far, and finding the dogs gaining on him, he took -to a tree. P. sprang off his horse and loaded, and I came up just<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_194" id="page_194"></a>{194}</span> in -time to see the bear, struck by his unerring ball, spring up, turn over, -cling for a moment with both paws, then fall heavily to the ground. The -dogs threw themselves on him, while we plunged our knives into his chest -with a shout of joy. The first two balls had hit him in the flank, while -the third from P.’s hand had lodged in his heart.</p> - -<p>As it was too late in the day to travel further, we returned to the -place where my rifle and some of P.’s things were left, collected wood, -made a capital fire, and prepared a splendid supper. As P. had been some -days in the woods, we had finished his coffee in the morning; so, by way -of something hot to wash down the meat, I pulled up some sassafras -roots, cut them up into small pieces, and made a very good substitute -for tea.</p> - -<p>Refreshed by our hard-earned meal, we enveloped ourselves in our -blankets, and chatted together before the fire: P. telling me about the -winter sleep of the bears. Towards the end of the year, they select a -hollow tree for the purpose, scratching and biting the inside as smooth -and clean as possible. This done, they descend into it, about Christmas -time, tail downwards, and remain immovable, if not disturbed, till the -end of February or middle of March, when they come out for a drink of -water, returning to their retreat till the weather is mild, and they can -gain their ordinary livelihood. Sometimes, instead of a tree, they -select a cane-brake, breaking and biting off the canes to form a bed.</p> - -<p>The nearest house lay about ten miles north-east from our bivouac, and -through the worst part of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_195" id="page_195"></a>{195}</span> swamp; but once there, I had hopes of -being able to walk on firm ground, instead of floundering through water -and mud.</p> - -<p>After some hours’ agreeable repose, both of us having risen to make up -the fire afresh, and just laid down again, we were suddenly alarmed by a -most tremendous crash, which made us start up. The tree which we had -been hacking at, and then thought no more about, was overthrown by the -rising wind; but this wind saved us, for as it blew in the opposite -direction to our fire, the tree fell from us—otherwise we might have -paid dearly for our carelessness. As it happened to fall across the -river, it made a very good bridge for me on the following morning. The -dogs had dropped their tails, and started off at the very first crack.</p> - -<p>We were up with the day. P. packed his bear on the horse, and made me -promise to come and see him when the swamps should be dry, to join in a -buffalo hunt. Taking a hearty leave of him I set off to the north-east. -After three hours’ marching up to the knees, and sometimes to the waist, -in water, I came on the broad road leading to Memphis, and turned to the -eastward. In the afternoon I arrived at S.’s old farm, and walked half a -mile further, to sleep at McO.’s, dwelling with pleasure all the while -on the hopes of a warm bed, a sound roof, and the society of -fellow-creatures.</p> - -<p>McO. gave me a warm reception, doing every thing to make me comfortable: -his wife came in later, having taken a ride to pay a visit to a couple -of widows. It is a remarkable fact that such a number of widows are<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_196" id="page_196"></a>{196}</span> -found in the swamps. Wherever you go, you are sure to see one at the -least, and I think “Mr. Weller” would have felt very uncomfortable in -this part of the world. Doubtless the climate is better suited to women -than to men, as the latter almost always die first.</p> - -<p>We were merrily chatting by the cheerful fire when suddenly the doorway -was darkened. I turned to look at the new comer, and who should it be -but the Methodist preacher. One night later, and I should have been out -of his reach.</p> - -<p>As the sun rose I started, quite refreshed, and before sunset arrived at -Strong’s post-office, on the St. Francis. Communication by letter would -be impossible in the thinly settled Western States, did not one of the -farmers undertake the office of post-master. One is appointed for each -county, but their duties are not severe. A postman, or mail rider as he -is called, traverses the county on horseback, sleeping at certain fixed -stations. The mail rider from Memphis, in Tennessee, with a pack-horse -in addition, carries the mail for Little Rock and Batesville to Strong’s -post-office, about forty miles, taking back the return bags; from -Strong’s, one rider goes to Batesville, and another to Little Rock. I -found a letter from Vogel, requesting me to return to Cincinnati, and -telling me that three letters had arrived for me from Germany.</p> - -<p>The following morning found me on the other side of the St. Francis, -traversing the swamp which Uhl and I had had such trouble to cross nine -months ago. Although still soft and muddy, it was not quite so bad as on -the previous occasion. I gained the banks of the lake about dusk, and -hailed the ferryman. He<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_197" id="page_197"></a>{197}</span> was not the man who kept it when we first came -here. As the sky looked suspicious, I decided on passing the night in -the house. My host was a young man, with no one but a negro boy to -attend him; yet there was society enough in front of the house, for on -the spot where Uhl and I had bivouacked, three families were encamped, -all bound for Texas.</p> - -<p>As we were about to go to sleep, an old man came in, saying that he was -not quite well, and could not bear the night air, and requesting -permission to sleep in the house. On leave being granted, he spread his -blanket before the fire, sat himself on it, and clasping his left knee -with both hands, fixed his eyes steadfastly on the blazing logs. The -negro boy sat in the chimney corner, staring at the old man, who at -first took no notice of him, but after a time he turned suddenly towards -him, saying,—“Here, good lad, I am subject to shocking bad dreams; if I -begin to talk, and throw my arms about, will you give me a good -shaking?” The boy nodded, and the old man became a much more important -personage in his estimation. “But I sleep very sound, you must shake me -well.” The boy nodded again. “If you do it well, I will give you -sixpence.” The boy grinned as well as nodded. The man lay down on his -blanket, and the boy watched him as a cat watches a mouse. I could not -sleep, and turned and turned in vain; at length I heard a groan. I -thought of the old fellow and his contract with the boy, and looked to -see if the latter was awake. He was on his knees watching his charge -with all his might. The man uttered some broken words, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_198" id="page_198"></a>{198}</span> raised both -his arms. The boy had only waited for this; he had him by the shoulder -in an instant, and shaking him with all his force, called out, “Master, -master—open your eyes, master.” The man awoke, and saying, “Thank you,” -was about to turn on the other side, which did not suit the boy: he -shook him again. “I tell you I am awake; do you want to shake the soul -out of me?” and he tried to get to sleep. But Sambo shook him again, so -that he started up in a rage, asking, “What do you go on shaking me for, -when I am wide awake?” The boy jumped back, frightened by the -threatening expression of the old fellow, and said, trembling, -“I—I—I—want that sixpence!” Altogether, it was too much for my -gravity, and I burst into a roar of laughter; the two managed to settle -their differences, and I soon afterwards fell asleep.</p> - -<p>I was early on the march, and arrived towards evening at a neat -comfortable looking house, surrounded by large fields of cotton and -Indian corn, betokening the abode of a rich planter; on receiving a -friendly affirmative to my inquiry for night quarters, I placed my rifle -and game bag in the corner, and sat myself on an easy chair by the fire.</p> - -<p>Strangers inquiring for night quarters must never suppose that they are -to receive them gratuitously. The usual price for supper, bed, and -breakfast—be the same good or bad—is half a dollar; but at Strong’s I -had to pay a dollar, which was an imposition. The charge for a horse -depends on the neighborhood, and the price of Indian corn. In the swamps -it was half<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_199" id="page_199"></a>{199}</span> a dollar; in Oiltrove Bottom, only a quarter, corn being -cheap there; further south, the charge was higher, and to the north-east -again it was cheaper.</p> - -<p>On my entrance, I perceived that there were ladies in the house. I had -been for some time alone, and as it grew dark, having had enough of my -own thoughts, I took out my zither, and began to play. A negro boy, -enticed into the room by the music, soon ran out again, probably to tell -his mistress what a curious sort of instrument I was playing upon. I -soon had an invitation to join the ladies; but my costume was not the -most suitable for a drawing-room. For months, neither razor nor scissors -had approached my head: my hunting-shirt had been ten months in wear, -sorely battered by wind and weather, and not being of leather, the -thorns had left their marks in many places: my leggins and water-proof -boots were passable: my shirt, of my own washing without soap, in cold -water, boasted various shades of red, from turkey’s and bear’s blood, -which is much more difficult to wash out than that of deer.</p> - -<p>The ladies received me very politely, almost too politely, and I began -to play. The Americans in general have little feeling for German music; -they are a people who live in a hurry, and every thing must go fast, -even music: when they hear any which has not the time of a reel or -hornpipe, they say that they do not understand it. The more educated -class forms an exception, and of such was my audience. The younger lady -was the owner’s wife, very pretty, though pale; but, indeed, I should -like to know how any one could live in these vile swamps without being -pale. The<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_200" id="page_200"></a>{200}</span> elder, a kindly, venerable matron, seemed to be on a visit; -they were simply but tastefully dressed, as is the case with all -American women, even of the lowest classes; every thing in the room -seemed neat and orderly. I passed a few very agreeable hours there; they -were very much pleased with the instrument, having seen nothing like it -before; and as they listened with marked pleasure to the sweet German -and Scottish airs, it seemed as if they could never have enough of it, -and it was past eleven before I got to bed. There was a piano in the -room, but it had not been played upon sufficiently to perfect its tone.</p> - -<p>It was long since I had enjoyed the pleasure of accomplished society, -and I shall never forget my friendly reception by this family.</p> - -<p>From hence, to Memphis was thirteen miles, with a good road, and by two -in the afternoon I was again on the waves of the Mississippi. The ferry -carried me over to Tennessee, Arkansas lay behind me, and once more I -returned to civilized society from the wild life of the backwoods; but -who can decide whether to a happier one. My funds had fallen so low that -I was obliged to look out for work. The banks of the Mississippi are so -high and steep at Memphis, at the mouth of the Wolf river, that the town -cannot be seen from the stream. The steamers deliver their passengers -and cargoes on board wharf-boats, formed of used-up steamboats moored to -the banks.</p> - -<p>The times were hard: I could obtain no other work than to cut wood, -which, with my weak health and unpractised hand, was certainly no -trifle; but necessity is a good teacher. I gained half a dollar and food -by<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_201" id="page_201"></a>{201}</span> cutting a cord of wood, eight feet long, four feet high, and four -feet deep, at a merchant’s, who had a tract of land and a saw-mill about -two miles from the town. Although hard work at first, yet when I got -used to it, I found that on an average I could cut and pile a cord a -day.</p> - -<p>After fourteen days’ hard work, I resolved to go to Cincinnati for my -letters, and, above all, to recover my health in its superior climate, -then to return and visit the hills. I had cut eighteen cords, and as the -man saw that I was poor, sickly, and in a hurry to go away, he cheated -me out of two dollars by giving me bad coin, a fact which I discovered -on board the “Persian” steamer, on my passage to Cincinnati. I was -kindly received by all my old friends, and established myself in a new -suit of clothes, for which, however, I had to run in debt.</p> - -<p>I looked about for work; every tavern in the place was crammed full of -Germans, ready to do any thing for bare food: whole families were in a -helpless state. Fine stories had been told them that they could gain a -dollar a day for every sort of work, and when they arrived, farmers were -paying only five or six dollars a month, and could not employ four -fifths of the applicants. I pitied the poor creatures, though no better -off myself. I took many a long walk in vain, looking for employment, -when Vogel offered me an occupation I should never have thought of -myself, viz., making pill-boxes. Vogel thought he would try “Emperor’s -Pills,” of which he had the prescription. He was very clever in such -matters, but he required little round boxes, resembling the original as -imported. We set to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_202" id="page_202"></a>{202}</span> work with a will; a carpenter was found to plane -the chips, we formed the tops and bottoms with a stamp, and I colored -the sides with logwood. The pill-box manufacture was soon in full play, -and I made them as if I had done nothing else all my life. But all -things must have an end, even the manufacture of pill-boxes, and my -genius was again left fallow. Vogel came once more to my assistance, and -I became a chocolate maker, gaining a dollar a day by pounding it in an -iron mortar.</p> - -<p>Shortly afterwards I heard of a dealer in tobacco who was out of -pipe-stems. These pipe-stems are made from the reeds or canes growing on -the banks of rivers, and other moist places in the Southern States, and -as all the rivers had risen very high, he could find no one to venture -among the snakes and mosquitoes. This was something more in my way than -sitting behind a pestle and mortar.</p> - -<p>I bargained with a companion, and, with a few dollars in our pockets to -cover the most necessary expenses, we started off for Tennessee, by the -“Algonquin.” There were plenty of canes at one of the places where the -vessel stopped for wood; I jumped on shore, and the owner of the wood, -who dwelt in a small house close at hand, agreed to board and lodge us -at two dollars a head per week. We at once landed our baggage, and set -to work next morning.</p> - -<p>These reeds grow in immense thickets on the banks of the Mississippi; -but we only cut the smallest for pipe-stems. They were about the -thickness of a large quill just above the root, from four to six feet -long, the joints being from eight to sixteen inches. The<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_203" id="page_203"></a>{203}</span> leaves are -green in summer and winter, and serve as fodder for cattle. We stripped -off the leaves, and bound the reeds in bundles of 500, which make a good -armful, and rather a heavy one when green. We sold them in Cincinnati -for two and a half dollars a bundle.</p> - -<p>The man on whom we had so summarily quartered ourselves was very civil -and obliging, and we were soon good friends. To enliven the long -evenings, he luckily happened to have a pack of cards, and a relation of -his, who lived at some distance, used to come in and play whist. I often -wished that our friends at home could have seen us, so as to have an -idea of the difference of a whist party in Germany and one near a -cane-brake in Tennessee: ours had at least the advantage of simplicity. -A very roughly hewn table was placed in the middle of the room, the -seats were chairs or boxes. It happened that the mosquitoes were more -formidable here than I ever found them anywhere else; and as it would -have been quite impossible to sit still under the constant attacks of -these tormentors, an iron pot with glowing charcoal was placed under the -table; a negro boy from time to time fed it with rotten wood, in order -to keep up a thick smoke, which rose up all round the table, and was by -no means beneficial to the eyes.</p> - -<p>Instead of wax candles, a long stick was jammed between two of the -boards of the floor; pork fat was then cut in long strips, wound round -with cotton rags, tied to the stick at a moderate height, and lighted. -It burnt rather dim, but gave light enough to show whether the colors -were red or black, when the card<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_204" id="page_204"></a>{204}</span> was not dirtier than usual, and the -smoke was not so strong as to draw tears.</p> - -<p>We had also great fun in harpooning buffalo-fish, which make for the -swamps when the river is high. The land here, at 100 to 150 paces from -the river, is lower than the bank; it is covered with water in winter -and spring, and dries up in summer, generating fever and disease, -besides myriads of mosquitoes and other insects. One afternoon, in the -space of two hours and a half, I caught fifteen fish, of which the -smallest weighed about ten pounds.</p> - -<p>Towards the end of April, having cut 18,000 canes, we hailed the next -boat that passed, embarked our cargo, and landed at Cincinnati on the -30th. Our canes were soon sold, and they were still in demand. I had a -great mind to make another voyage, but resolved next time to go alone; -for though I found my companion very willing to share the gains, he was -by no means so ready to share the pains. For the present, however, I -preferred staying a short time at Cincinnati and amusing myself.</p> - -<p>I happened to fall in with some of my Jewish fellow passengers on board -the “Constitution.” Acting on the instructions of their friends and -countrymen at New York, they had begun to trade in a small way; all had -gained something, and some few had become comparatively rich. They -generally begin as peddlers, stopping at every farmhouse, and the farmer -is obliged to buy something to get rid of them.</p> - -<p>As the rivers were still rising, I made a second trip to the canes. I -had paid all my debts, and had something in hand. Towards the end of -May, I embarked<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_205" id="page_205"></a>{205}</span> on board the “Mediator,” with the intention of going -further south than before, as the canes there are larger, and I could -cut some for fishing rods, from thirty to forty feet long, and 1½ to two -inches thick.</p> - -<p>What a view presented itself on leaving the Ohio for the Mississippi! Of -Cairo, a small town on a point of land in Illinois, nothing was to be -seen, except a hotel, a manufactory, and a brick house. In August the -water subsided, and the river returned to its bed, leaving a thick layer -of sticky mud behind it. The sides were all under water, except some -hills on the left bank, but no canes grew there, and it was not till I -reached Louisiana, where the “levee” begins, that I found dry land. To -avoid being carried to New Orleans, I landed at random, and found myself -in a French settlement with numerous plantations close to each other. I -learned from a Creole that there was a German settlement further down -the river, and thither I directed my steps, to hear something about the -country. I fell in with a German planter, and he directed me to a German -inn-keeper still further on. I received a cordial welcome from him; he -offered me his boat to row over to the opposite bank, where I could cut -as many canes as I chose.</p> - -<p>Next morning I made a voyage of discovery, and found a beautiful -country, but mostly under water, even to the canes, which grow on the -highest parts of the marshes; wherever there was a spot of dry land, it -swarmed with all sorts of snakes, and the air was thick with mosquitoes. -However, here I was, and work I must. I cut down a great number of -beautiful fishing-rods, bound them together, and laid them on one of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_206" id="page_206"></a>{206}</span> -the highest spots, ready to carry across in a larger boat.</p> - -<p>I passed some pleasant weeks here, partly in the society of my -countrymen, and partly engaged in my work, and at last embarked with my -goods, on board the steamer “Independence,” taking cordial leave of my -new friends, and particularly of my kind host, who could not be induced -to receive any payment. I landed first at Louisville, and disposed of a -part of my canes, then took the rest on to Cincinnati, found a ready -sale, and was once more free to do as I liked.</p> - -<p>The Whigs and Democrats were at this time more than usually violent, -abusing each other in the public papers and thrashing each other in the -public houses. The Democrats in Cincinnati (and all the Germans were -Democrats) had carried a measure for allowing German to be taught in the -schools as well as English; but the German scholars hung back from the -office of schoolmaster, for fear of the examination they would have to -undergo. Under these circumstances, some of my good friends persuaded me -to attempt to pass, and take a situation, the salary being from -twenty-five to thirty dollars a month. So I resolved to try it, if only -for the fun of the thing.</p> - -<p>But for this purpose it was necessary to devote some time to study, as -my knowledge of English grammar was none of the best, and much of my -scholarship had evaporated in the backwoods.</p> - -<p>The formidable day at length arrived. The candidates were two Germans -besides myself, and three Americans, besides five or six young women for -the female schools. I had forwarded notice of my wish<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_207" id="page_207"></a>{207}</span> to become a -candidate towards the end of July, together with a certificate of my -moral character from a citizen of the town, which my former employer, -the silversmith, was kind enough to give me. I stepped with a light -heart into the hall, for I really did not much care whether I passed or -not. The examiners were five very respectable looking gentlemen; as the -others seemed inclined to hang back, I very gallantly stepped forward. -One of the examiners said he should begin with geography, and addressed -me as follows:—“Now, Mr. Kresdegger;” “Gerstaecker, sir.” “Oh, excuse -me; now, Mr. Kerseker, will you be so kind as to give us the boundaries -of Ohio.” “Yes, sir; on the north,” &c. &c. It was all conducted in this -courteous manner, and all answered the questions, except one of the -Germans. They then began upon Germany, asking me, from what state I -came? “From Saxony.” “How is Saxony divided?” “Into five districts.” -“What are their names?” To save my life, I could not on the instant -remember, but my impudence carried me through. Taking it for granted -that my examiner knew no better than myself, especially as he had no -book, I answered gravely: “Leipzig, Dresden, Grimma, Meissen, and -Oschatz;” with which he was perfectly satisfied, though one of my -compatriots was obliged to bite his lips to preserve his gravity. After -a little more geography we came to grammar, spelling, arithmetic, and -writing; we were then dismissed, and directed to apply on the following -Wednesday. On Wednesday we had a fresh examination, rather more tedious -than the first, and then we were referred to the 5th August. All passed, -excepting one of my<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_208" id="page_208"></a>{208}</span> countrymen, who remarked that, as they had given -him no certificate, he supposed that they had forgotten him.</p> - -<p>This affair had detained me longer than I had at first intended, and I -now prepared for another cane trip. This time I went no further than -Tennessee, a little below my old ground, and lodged with a relation of -my former host.</p> - -<p>After a few days, some of the neighbors and my host proposed a shooting -party to the Tironia, in Arkansas, and as they intended to be only -fourteen days absent, I agreed to join them, obtained the loan of a -horse and rifle, and was in a few days once again in Arkansas. We -remained about a week at the junction of the Tironia with Big Creek, and -shot three bears; but the season was the most unfavorable that we could -have selected. They were not only very thin, but their skins foxy and -useless. While here we happened to fall in with a young man named -Woodsworth, who wished to go to my old swamps of Baz de View, and Cash -river, to try for buffalo, these marshes being now dry. Nothing could -have presented itself more opportunely. My comrades were soon persuaded, -and in five days we were in the buffalo feeding grounds.</p> - -<p>After three days’ fruitless search, we came upon a herd of sixteen, a -cow and a calf in the rear. We all fired at the cow, in hopes of taking -the calf alive. The cow fell, after making a few bounds, but to our -great annoyance, the wild fat calf threw up his tail, galloped after the -rest, and was soon out of sight.</p> - -<p>Oh, what a feast we had! Well tanned sole-leather<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_209" id="page_209"></a>{209}</span> would have been a -delicacy in comparison; the marrow was the only part good for any thing. -My host and Woodsworth cut the skin lengthwise, in two halves, and each -took a half on their horses. We then turned to the north-east, and rode, -without entering a house, to Memphis, crossed the Mississippi, and rode -home by the left bank. So at last, I had been at a buffalo hunt! and had -had hard fagging, little pleasure, and no advantage. Whenever I looked -at the skin, I thought of little Magnus, the distiller.</p> - -<p>I set to work on the canes again, and by the middle of October had cut -about 30,000, shipped them on board the steamer “Buckeye,” and returned -to Cincinnati; but this supply overstocked the market there, so I took -them to Pittsburg, in Pennsylvania, selling some at the small towns on -the Ohio on my way. I drove a good trade with them at Pittsburg, and -stayed no longer than was necessary, on account of the coal-dust and -smoke. Like Cincinnati, the place was crowded with Germans out of work. -On my return to Cincinnati, I lived for some time at my ease.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_210" id="page_210"></a>{210}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VIII" id="CHAPTER_VIII"></a>CHAPTER VIII.</h2> - -<p class="chead">FARMING AT FOURCHE LE FAVE—A BACKWOODS “FROLIC”—RESIDENCE AT KELFER’S FARM—SCHOOLS—HUNTING EXCURSION.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">The Ohio—Partnership in farming—Fourche Le Fave—Mr. -Kelfer—Congress land—My cooking operations—Pig-killing—Decoys -used in shooting turkeys—Shooting by night—Salt licks—Mosquitoes -and ticks—Dissensions on our farm—A grand “frolic”—Canoe voyage -through the woods—Sickness—Kelfer and his family—Sessions at -Fourche le Fave—Shooting expedition with Slowtrap—Reserve of the -Americans—Adventures of the early settlers with Indians—Raccoon -shooting—Bee-hunting with bait—Tempest—Panther-hunting.</p></div> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">Having</span> received a letter from Rutkin, in Louisiana, with whom I had -passed some pleasant days, inviting me to visit him, and intending to -return to Arkansas to shoot (but to the hills in the west, instead of -the swamps), and having nothing to detain me, I accepted the invitation, -and taking a hearty leave of all friends, I was soon once more on my way -to the south.</p> - -<p>The steamer “Artisan,” with cattle, poultry, flour, whiskey, and -passengers, carried me down the beautiful Ohio. It was very cold; and as -we lay at Louisville, taking in more cargo, it began to snow hard. By -the time we had reached the mouth of the Ohio, the snow was eight inches -deep, and continued so as far as<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_211" id="page_211"></a>{211}</span> Memphis; nor did it entirely disappear -till we had passed Natchez.</p> - -<p>The nights were very dark, and the boat landed me seven or eight miles -above the right place, so I had to walk to Rutkin’s, leaving my baggage -at a plantation, and calling for it next day.</p> - -<p>Rutkin gave me a cordial reception. He was on the point of selling his -hotel at Pointe Coupée, and removing, with all his family, to Arkansas, -as the climate of Louisiana did not agree with them. Two friends, Haller -and Kean, were to join him, the former with a family.</p> - -<p>Early in January we went up the stream in the steamer “Amazon” to the -mouth of the Arkansas, and started from thence by one of the smaller -boats that run from its mouth, through the dark forests, to the western -forts. Our first point was Little Rock, from whence we intended to go to -Fort Smith, on the west frontier, leaving the women and children till a -house was prepared for them.</p> - -<p>Rutkin had a capital of about 4,000 dollars, and the others 0,000 -amongst them. It was arranged that we should all settle on our tract of -land, and cultivate it together, R. taking a stock of goods for trading, -which was also to be carried on in common, he receiving four per cent. -for his outlay. As the money was at his disposal, he was to a certain -degree our chief, but we were all on good terms with each other.</p> - -<p>We heard Fourche le Fave very highly spoken of, and particularly the -land in its neighborhood. We went to look at the place, and were well -received by a settler there, Mr. Kelfer. He rode over the country<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_212" id="page_212"></a>{212}</span> with -us, showed us every thing that was to be seen, and did all in his power -to make our visit agreeable. We could not see much of the land for snow, -but K. assured us that it was very good, the pasture excellent, and the -shooting also good. K. seemed likely to make a pleasant neighbor, and we -soon came to terms. There were two dwelling-houses, with two fields not -far apart, belonging to an American named Wilson, who was, as usual, -willing to sell. In half an hour the matter was settled, 250 dollars, -Arkansas paper currency, being paid for the whole. There were two other -fields, making altogether about thirteen or fourteen acres of arable -land, fenced in. The house furthest from the river was a very good one.</p> - -<p>It has to be noticed that this was Congress land; that is, it belonged -to the United States government, and the first settler on it has a prior -right to purchase it, called in American law “preëmption right.” The -advantages of this system to the settler are as follows: he may settle -on the land and cultivate it as his own, no one having a right to turn -him off, till it has been surveyed and announced for sale in the -Government Gazette. He then has the right of purchasing a quarter -section, or 160 acres, or even as little as forty acres at the rate of a -dollar and a quarter an acre, even though another should bid a larger -sum for it. This right Wilson transferred to us with his “improvements.”</p> - -<p>After concluding the purchase, we all came to Little Rock. Rutkin and -Keen went to Louisiana to bring over the families, while Haller and I -bought provisions, and returned to Fourche le Fave. Little Rock was -much<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_213" id="page_213"></a>{213}</span> increased and improved since I first saw it two years ago, but the -place never pleased me.</p> - -<p>Our house being near the river, we required a boat, partly to carry out -goods from Little Rock to the place of destination, thirty miles up the -Arkansas, and forty miles up the Fourche le Fave, and partly to carry us -occasionally across the river. We obtained a very good one for ten -dollars, loaded it with flour, potatoes, coffee, sugar, some carpenter’s -tools, and a puppy that had been given me, and which I meant to break -in, and rowed away in good spirits towards our new home.</p> - -<p>We entered the Fourche le Fave on the evening of the second day, hoping -to reach a house, said to be about seven miles up the stream; but we -could not find the smallest spot fit for a human habitation, and landed -on a projecting rock, quite tired, between nine and ten o’clock. As it -had rained all day, this was the only clean spot we could find; and the -stone was so small that we were obliged to rest our feet in the boat, to -keep them out of the water.</p> - -<p>Next day it rained harder, and we were very glad to get to a house -before dark, where we were in some measure protected from the tremendous -rain. I say in some measure, because the roof was none of the best, the -rain dropping on my face and neck; luckily, before dark, I had espied an -old cotton umbrella in a corner (no common article in a block-house), -and slept comfortably enough for the rest of the night under its -shelter.</p> - -<p>We arrived next evening at Kelfer’s farm, where we were hospitably -received, and reached our place of destination on the day following. The -four naked walls<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_214" id="page_214"></a>{214}</span> looked dreary enough at first, but we soon made -ourselves comfortable. We had nothing to do but to repair the fences, -and wait till the weather was cold enough to preserve meat, and to buy -and kill pigs for both families for the winter. Soon after our arrival, -I had happened to fall upon the slippery bank of the river, and tore -open my left hand, and afterwards, as I was chopping a plank with my -tomahawk, not being able to hold it properly, it slipped, and I smashed -one of my fingers. Haller tore up one of my shirts to bind the wound, -and as I could now for awhile do nothing else, I attended to the -cooking, which was carried on as follows: first, we had a cask of wheat -flour, of which I made bread for every meal; secondly, corned pork, cut -in thin slices and fried; and lastly, coffee. The sugar was kept in a -paper parcel on a shelf, and each helped himself. At dinner, a glass of -whiskey was substituted for the coffee. After about three weeks, being -in a rage with something, I threw the fryingpan out at the door, whereby -its handle was broken, and it was rendered by no means more convenient -to cook with; then Haller one day made a false step, and stumbled on the -coffee-pot, which, in consequence, had to be stopped with a little paste -every morning. The washing-up I found more disagreeable than the -cooking.</p> - -<p>Meantime, my hand had got better. The weather set in very cold, and we -resolved to kill and salt the pigs we had bought, weighing about 200 -pounds each. A young American, whom we had engaged to help us, cut down -a large sassafras tree, and hollowed out half a dozen troughs, five for -the meat, and one for the lard.</p> - -<p>The neighbors were called in to help, the pigs driven<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_215" id="page_215"></a>{215}</span> into the -enclosure, shot, stuck, scalded, cleaned, and carried into the house. -Not having any large caldron to scald them, it was done Arkansas -fashion. A cask with the head out was half sunk in the earth, and filled -with cold water, and a large fire was made close by and covered with -stones. When these were hot enough, they were thrown into the water, and -the cask covered with a blanket. The water was soon hot enough for our -purpose: the pig was dipped once or twice in the water, and five or six -pairs of hands soon removed all the bristles. By evening all was -finished, and part of the fat laid aside, out of reach of the dogs, for -making soap. The good people who came to help us, now set-to to drink, -assisted by Haller, so that in the course of an hour and a half, none of -them knew exactly whether he was standing on his head or his feet. As -soon as they were all screwed up, I laid one in each trough, and left -them to repose. Before it came to this, Haller and the young American -had sworn eternal friendship, clasped each other round the neck, -mutually supported each other to prevent their falling on the stupid -staggering ground, till at last they went down like a couple of -flour-sacks. Next day the pigs were cut up, salted, and suspended in the -smoking house. In the evening we went to our next neighbor to borrow a -caldron, to melt down the fat; but when I went to get it, a large -quantity of fat had vanished, not through the dogs, but through wolves, -whose trail I plainly traced through the soft sand near the river, not -fifteen paces from the house; but enough was left for our purpose.</p> - -<p>I was now well enough to shoot again, and had good<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_216" id="page_216"></a>{216}</span> sport with the -turkeys, rising before daybreak, stationing myself near their roost, and -remaining quite still till early dawn, then imitating the voice of the -night-owl. The indignant turkey begins to gobble with great force, and -betrays his whereabouts; by creeping noiselessly near his perch, he may -be easily knocked over before broad daylight. If the day should be too -far advanced for the sportsman to gain upon him unperceived, he must -crouch behind a fallen tree, or other cover, and use a decoy-pipe, made -from the second bone of the hen turkey’s wing, split a little on both -sides. One end of this he applies to his mouth, keeping the other end in -the hollow of his hands. As soon as the cock hears it, he flies down, -gobbling furiously, and struts towards the sound, with his wings -trailing along the ground, his comb and wattles in full bloom, and his -tail spread out. He sometimes will come so near that the sportsman is -obliged to give a short whistle to check him, because it is very -difficult to hit him in the right place with a single ball when his -feathers are all ruffled. On hearing the whistle he pulls up short, -looks round suspiciously, and utters a warning K-t-t-t. Now fire, or -good-by turkey. This sport was so attractive, that I hardly let a -morning pass without bringing home a turkey; but it was long before I -was perfect in my practice, and I lost many a shot by a false note, or -heedless noise.</p> - -<p>At the end of two months, Kean arrived early one morning with the news -that Rutkin’s and Haller’s families were in a large flat-bottomed boat, -at the mouth of the Fourche le Fave. Haller took the boat immediately to -join them, leaving Kean with me.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_217" id="page_217"></a>{217}</span> Fresh life came with the new arrivals: -Rutkin brought a quantity of wares with him, which were all stowed in a -house we had built for the purpose. They consisted chiefly of coffee, -sugar, salt, powder, lead, cottons, &c., &c., all to be sold for ready -money; but as ready money was one of those things which were very scarce -in Arkansas, a system of barter was opened, and cattle, pigs, horses, -salt meat, butter, poultry, eggs, skins, and smoked venison, were -exchanged for the said articles, and conveyed to Little Rock, to be -again sold or exchanged. This part of the business was intrusted to me.</p> - -<p>Rutkin took on some more workmen, and the land was prepared for corn. I -was again passionately fond of shooting, and had capital sport. As my -days were generally occupied, it was carried on at night, as follows: -the handle of a frying-pan is lengthened to about four feet by means of -a narrow board; the pan is filled with kindlers and set alight—then -taking it on your shoulder, and your rifle in your hand, you are ready -for sport. If alone, you must take a store of kindlers to replenish the -fire. For the sake of a better aim, a small crutch is cut in the end of -the wooden handle, to rest the rifle. The fire being kept behind your -head, the eyes of the game will glow like balls of fire: the deer, -accustomed to the frequent fires in the forest, are not alarmed. When -first discovered, if at about 100 paces, the eyes will look like a -single ball, but the two become distinct on a nearer approach, which the -sportsman must make with as little noise as possible, and, if possible, -against the wind. When near enough, he lays his rifle in rest, and aims -between<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_218" id="page_218"></a>{218}</span> the eyes, or, if he can distinguish the outline of the form, at -the heart; and he is generally sure of his game.</p> - -<p>There were numbers of salt-licks in the vicinity of the Fourche le Fave, -which were much visited by deer and cattle. The former generally come in -the night, so that the sportsman may take up a station under a scaffold, -on the top of which a fire is made. Four posts are driven into the -ground, five feet apart, and beams laid across, covered with a layer of -leaves or moss, then a layer of sand or earth, on which the fire is -made. The sportsman sits underneath in impenetrable darkness, yet able -to see for seventy or eighty paces on all sides, and easily kills any -deer approaching the lick.</p> - -<p>Many a night I lay in the mild warm air of the forest. Sweet and -refreshing as was the face of nature, all was not repose; mosquitoes and -ticks almost drove me to despair. When the fire was once well alight, -the mosquitoes were attracted by it, and destroyed themselves by -thousands, but the ticks became the more furious. They swarm in the -woods about the end of April, and are a dreadful torment to the -new-comer. The full-grown ticks, about the size of a small shot, are not -the worst, because when they bite they may be caught and killed; but in -July, the seed-ticks, smaller than poppy seeds, cover the bushes by -millions, and I have often almost lost myself under them. Tobacco smoke -is the only safeguard against them, as it kills them at once. The poor -cattle are dreadfully tormented by them, particularly when they get into -their ears. The first cold drives them away, though a few may be found -all through the winter.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_219" id="page_219"></a>{219}</span></p> - -<p>Meantime the work of the farm went on, and the maize was planted; but a -change came over the spirit of our society. Rutkin, who had hitherto -been friendly and good-natured, became snappish and domineering, and -once or twice ventured to give me orders in a tone that I did not choose -to bear; but as he had been only a short time in Arkansas, I made -excuses for him, laughed at him, took my gun, and absented myself for -above twenty-four hours. On my return, he was always wise enough to act -as if nothing had happened, and to see that giving orders was of no use. -He had also frequent disputes with Kean. Haller agreed with him best, -because he always flattered him, and coincided with him before his face, -though this was by no means the case behind his back.</p> - -<p>One day when I was out shooting, R. attacked K., who was small and -slight. To avenge himself, Kean took down his rifle, and would have shot -Rutkin, had not Haller thrown himself between them. Our friendly -relations were now quite broken up. Kean came over to Haller’s, where I -was living, and we withdrew from the partnership, which was more than R. -had reckoned on, as, knowing the state of our finances, he thought he -had us under his thumb. He did not consider that I had a rifle, that -there was plenty of game in Arkansas, and that there was a river running -to New Orleans, where Kean, who was an excellent accountant, could make -sure of a good situation.</p> - -<p>We were soon ready to start. I was to take K.’s things in a canoe to -Little Rock, while he was to follow on horseback. But the 4th of July -approached, on which day a farmer on the Fourche le Fave was<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_220" id="page_220"></a>{220}</span> going to -give a grand entertainment—or frolic, as it is called—in hopes of -being chosen as a member of the legislature at the next election. We -decided on waiting to be present at it.</p> - -<p>These frolics generally take place in Spring. When a farmer calls his -neighbors together to collect and burn all the wood he has cut down, it -is called a “log rolling frolic;” and when the women assemble to sew -together a number of different colored patches, it is called a “quilting -frolic;” and in the evening, there is generally a dance, or a game of -forfeits.</p> - -<p>I had hitherto never been present at any of these frolics, for I had -rather avoided the throng of men; but as I was about to return to the -woods, where I should perhaps see nothing of social life for months, I -resolved to see men enjoy themselves for once.</p> - -<p>The 4th of July arrived, and at about ten o’clock in the morning I -lounged towards the place of destination, leaving my rifle at home. The -strong attraction of some whortleberries detained me some time on the -road, so that I did not arrive till noon. Here all was in movement; the -whole neighborhood had assembled, and the rough backwoodsmen formed many -strange groups; some in hunting-shirts, like myself; some in woollen -homespun coats—but the greater number without their upper garments. -Several fires were lighted, and cooking was going on in various modes, -while, in a shady place near the house, a group of women were occupied -in boiling a “powerful long coffee.”</p> - -<p>The sound of a solitary fiddle had been perceptible at a distance, and -sure enough, when I arrived, I found dancing going on amongst the -younger folk, in<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_221" id="page_221"></a>{221}</span> one of the wings of the double house. I had never -succeeded in acquiring the dances of my own country, much less the -extraordinary movements of those of America; so I amused myself with -looking on, and watching the arrivals, who thronged in from all ends and -corners of the State. A great number of the young women were light and -graceful figures, and looked very interesting on horseback, their cheeks -flushed with their quick ride. But they seemed as if they were going on -a pilgrimage, instead of coming to a ball,—for each fair dame had a -bundle of tolerable size at her saddle-bow; some of them were already -known to me, and I assisted them to alight.</p> - -<p>Meantime a long table was laid out before the house, and surrounded with -chairs, benches, &c.; but as it was impossible for all to find seats at -once, the ladies were accommodated first, and waited upon by the -gentlemen. The dinner consisted of roast beef, roast pork, potatoes, -sweet potatoes, maize bread, cakes, and coffee and milk, and went off -very well. Rutkin had brought a case of wine for the ladies, which was -soon emptied. After dinner, a speech was made to the assembled public, -in honor of the birth-day of the United States, and then dancing -commenced again. Picturesque groups were formed here and there, occupied -in various ways. In one place, a party of strong-built, sun-burnt -figures lounged at full length on the grass, relating their shooting -adventures; further on, two figures, astride a fallen tree, were playing -a game of cards; in another place, a party leaping with a heavy stone in -each hand, to give them more impetus; and a row of big fellows were -taking their siesta under the trees, only moving<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_222" id="page_222"></a>{222}</span> to avoid the too -intrusive rays of the sun, as he declined towards the west. Kean and I -sauntered about amongst the various groups, and occasionally visited the -ball-room—if the interior of a log-house, about sixteen feet by twenty, -can be so called. The air within was hot, almost to suffocation, but the -sight was at times too pretty, at times too comic to be quickly -deserted. Indeed, most of the girls, beating time with their little feet -in jigs, reels, and hornpipes, were pretty enough to chain to the spot -any worshipper of natural beauty. My attention was soon attracted by an -American;—tall, very thin, and rather weak in the knee-joints;—he was -buttoned up in a dark-blue dress coat, with light-blue seams, and yellow -buttons,—a long roll of tobacco stuck out from one of his pockets -which, in the energy of his jumps, he occasionally kicked with his -heels; to prevent its being damaged, he therefore transferred it to the -breast of his coat: the best of the figure was the cravat, which was so -formed, that his head looked like a cup placed in a very large and deep -saucer; his chin was never in sight, and as he jumped, mouth, nose, and -eyes disappeared behind the black bulwark.</p> - -<p>Towards evening I joined in a game of cards. Whiskey bottles passed -round, and many of the party were right merry. Having had enough of -cards, I returned to the dancing, which had undergone some interruption; -but the shrill tones of the violino solo were again heard, as I squeezed -through the crowd at the door, into one of the corners right opposite to -the musician. This functionary was in a rather capricious humor passing -abruptly from the wildest allegro to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_223" id="page_223"></a>{223}</span> the most dolorous of the dolefuls, -and then breaking off suddenly to ask me for a quid of tobacco. On my -answering that I had none, he inflicted a couple of rough strokes on his -poor instrument, expressed, in coarse language, a most disagreeable wish -respecting the eyes of all the company, on account of the dryness of his -throat, which had only had the contents of two bottles of whiskey down -it, looked wildly round, began to cry, and fell sobbing on the neck of -the thin man in the blue coat, burying his head in the large cravat. He -was seized by the arms and legs, and unceremoniously carried out.</p> - -<p>Dancing, of course, ceased during this little intermezzo, and one of the -party offered to find a sober fiddler; but as the amusement would have -been interrupted too long by waiting for him, a tall lad placed himself -in front of the chimney, turned up his sleeves with the utmost gravity, -bent his knees a little, and began slapping them in time with the palms -of his hands; in two minutes all was going on with as much spirit as -before.</p> - -<p>At length the promised musician arrived, not however in the promised -condition; but a connoisseur near me remarked that he would do till -twelve o’clock.</p> - -<p>To my astonishment, I observed several of the young ladies in white -dresses, whom I was almost sure I had seen before in dark dresses; but, -as I never paid much attention to such things, I thought I must have -been mistaken. An American, however, told me that I was quite right, and -that most of them had already changed their dresses three times; and, if -I kept a look-out, he continued, I should see that some of them<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_224" id="page_224"></a>{224}</span> would -change again. This, indeed, was the case. Some changed their dresses -five times between noon and the following morning. It would be as -incorrect to dance for a whole night in the same dress as in Europe to -appear without gloves, which latter articles were thought quite -unnecessary here.</p> - -<p>A farmer, who lived about eight miles lower down the Fourche le Fave, -promised me an old canoe to carry K.’s things to Little Rock, and said, -that when I got there I might set it adrift, as it was not worth cutting -up; so I settled to go home with him next morning to bring the canoe -back.</p> - -<p>A little after twelve the old American’s prophecy came to pass, and the -second fiddler was carried out and laid on the grass, while a third was -soon found to take his place. By this time I was tired and sleepy, so I -stretched myself under a tree, with my head on an old grindstone, and, -in spite of the hard pillow and squeaking fiddle, I slept soundly till -morning.</p> - -<p>When the sun sent his hot rays over the trees into the clearing, dancing -was still going on, and the ground was covered with sleeping figures. -Preparations were soon made for departure. The horses, which had been -tied to the bushes or fence, or driven into an enclosure, and had been -well supplied with maize, were quickly saddled, and troop after troop of -men and women disappeared in the thick green forest. I started with the -farmer and his wife, the indefatigable fiddlestick working away as long -as we were within hearing.</p> - -<p>I found the canoe; and the good man was quite right when he said that it -was not worth cutting up.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_225" id="page_225"></a>{225}</span> None but a person accustomed to such craft -would have ventured to step into it. It was nothing more than the -roughly hollowed trunk of a tree, about ten feet long by eighteen inches -wide; however, it answered my purpose, and, provided with a light -paddle, I set out on my return, which, though only eight miles by land, -was at least twenty by water.</p> - -<p>The sun was just dipping behind the tips of the trees; the air, which -had been oppressively hot all day, was somewhat cooler. I was going -slowly up the stream with long easy strokes of the paddle, under the -shadow of the overhanging willows, when, about 100 paces before me, I -saw four wolves playing together on a bank of gravel, jumping in and out -of the water, and rolling over each other like puppies. They did not see -me, and I paddled silently to the side of the river where they were -playing, ran the canoe on the sand, took the paddle, hardly knowing -exactly what I intended, and crept stealthily along towards the -unsuspecting wolves, a projecting rock hiding me from their sight. But -wolves have a fine scent, and just as I was raising my head cautiously, -they all four sprang into the thicket. I returned disappointed to my -canoe, and continued my voyage. On arriving close to a canebrake, about -100 yards further on, I heard a rustling, and caught hold of the bough -of a tree near me, to keep the canoe as still as possible, when an -immense wolf, as black as pitch, with a white star on his breast, came -out of the canes, apparently with the intention of swimming across to -join his companions. When he caught sight of me, he turned his head from -side to side like a dog. As I remained quite motionless, but with<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_226" id="page_226"></a>{226}</span> my -eyes steadily fixed on him, he took courage, walked into the water, and -began to swim across about fifteen yards ahead of the canoe. I let him -gain the middle of the stream, which may have been about sixty yards -wide, when I gave the canoe a good shove ahead, and paddling as hard as -I could, I gained fast on the surprised wolf. In the first moment, not -knowing which shore to make for, he turned up stream, giving me thus a -great advantage over him. But he soon found out his mistake, and turned -in his first direction, this time gaining an advantage over me, because -my clumsy craft was not easily turned. He had about twenty yards to -swim, and we both tried hard which should first reach the shore. The -bank was still a few feet distant, when I came alongside of the beast, -which was swimming desperately for its life, and, forgetting the -ticklish nature of my craft, I rose up to give him a blow across the -spine with the sharp edge of the paddle, meaning then to attack him with -my knife, as I was without my rifle. He was close beside me, and looked -up at me as I raised the paddle, when the vile canoe slipped from under -me; I lost my balance, and fell into the water just clear of the wolf, -who touched bottom at the same moment, and at once began shaking -himself. The water was not deep, but I was wet through, and vexed at -seeing my prey escape, just as I had made sure of him. A wolf’s scalp is -valued at three dollars in Arkansas. I had moreover the additional -pleasure of swimming some way down the river after the canoe.</p> - -<p>I arrived at Haller’s next day without further adventure, embarked -Kean’s things, taking also all my<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_227" id="page_227"></a>{227}</span> skins with me, as I could sell them -better at Little Rock than at Fourche le Fave. I gave the canoe to an -old German, who was fond of fishing, and who had to fish himself out of -the water the first time he tried her.</p> - -<p>I soon returned to the settlement, and a few days afterwards took leave -of Kean, who, with a promise to write to me, set off on horseback -towards the south. My arrangements were soon made, and on the following -morning I set off up the bank of the river towards the mountains, -intending to shoot all the summer. Kelfer, who had already received us -so hospitably, was kind enough to offer me the loan of a horse for the -summer. I thankfully accepted his kindness, and rode off in good -spirits, not knowing exactly where; but that was always one of the least -of my cares, so that I was only in motion, and I soon found a good place -for sport. I learnt that there was very good shooting ground higher up -the river, near the grave-lick, so called because two Indians were -buried there, who had been killed by a panther. Here I joined an -American, named Hogarth, who lived in the neighborhood, and was a keen -sportsman. After trying the waters of the Fourche le Fave, we went to -the sources of the Washita; but the forests not having been burnt for -many years, were so thickly overgrown with underwood, that it was -impossible to find the deer, or to shoot game enough to live upon.</p> - -<p>We had been shooting for about five weeks, when one morning, as we were -riding side by side, I felt all at once giddy and unwell. The evening -before, we had been overtaken by a thunderstorm, and my clothes were -still damp. This attack came on so suddenly, that I had hardly time to -say I was ill, and Hogarth turning round,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_228" id="page_228"></a>{228}</span> observed that I was very -pale, when every thing swam before my eyes, and turned black and blue; -and I fell senseless off the horse before Hogarth could lay hold of me. -I recovered my senses in a few minutes, but was so ill that it was with -great difficulty I could mount my horse, and keep myself to the saddle. -We had, however, not far to go to the house of a Mr. Collmar, and I held -on by the mane and pommel, though lolling from side to side like a -drunken man.</p> - -<p>The house was nothing more than a shed formed of boards, but the good -people received me very hospitably, and attended me kindly for the two -days that I lay delirious. On the third day I was able to be lifted on -horseback, and we returned over the mountains that divide the left arm -of the Fourche le Fave from the main stream, to Hogarth’s house; he -would not let me move till I was tolerably recovered.</p> - -<p>At no great distance from hence, lived an old backwoodsman, named -Slowtrap, with whom I was well acquainted, and who showed so much -kindness and good feeling that I became quite attached to him. Still I -longed for German society; besides, I had kept Kelfer’s horse too long, -and would not abuse his good nature. Therefore, though still unwell, I -rode from Hogarth’s about the end of August, towards Kelfer’s, who not -only received me with kindness, but treated me quite as one of his own -family.</p> - -<p>He had been accustomed to a quiet comfortable life in his early days, -having been a clergyman in Germany, but he had shaken off the -superintendent yoke of his native country, exchanging it for the -independent life of a farmer in the American forests, and was happy<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_229" id="page_229"></a>{229}</span> and -contented in his family circle. His young wife was quite an example of -household virtue: they had four very fine children. He produced almost -every thing that he required, and though in his youth unaccustomed to -hard work, he cultivated his land alone, and was not behind any American -in the use of his axe; his cattle and pigs were among the best in the -place.</p> - -<p>When first I arrived I felt very wretched and miserable, but the kind -attentions of Mrs. Kelfer restored me after a time; I managed to help a -little on the farm, and now and then took a turn with my rifle, and shot -a deer or a turkey.</p> - -<p>The sessions were held about this time at Fourche le Fave, and several -advocates, some from Little Rock, some from the neighborhood, assembled -at Perryville, and quartered themselves on the farmers. Kelfer received -one, who was a gentlemanly young man, and he (Kelfer) had cases to -settle with some of the bad characters in the vicinity. There was now -bustle enough in the usually quiet place, and the little town of -Perryville, about two miles off, consisting of one little shop, and the -dwelling of the ferryman, who was also postmaster, was the assembling -place of the county.</p> - -<p>The shop, which formed one half of the town, belonged to a German, who -was too good a specimen of a certain class of his countrymen to be -passed by without notice. Bockenheim, or as the Americans called him, -Buckingham, must, I should think, have been a manufacturer of birch -brooms, as he showed extraordinary talent for that branch of the fine -arts; but he endeavored<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_230" id="page_230"></a>{230}</span> to gain his livelihood in the general retail -line, and he drove a pretty good trade in Arkansas, where he had settled -himself by chance, and where the people were forced to deal with him, as -his was at first the only shop. Rutkin, however, interfered with his -business, and at first did him much harm, until his proud domineering -manner drove all his customers away, excepting those who thought to gain -advantage over him. Bockenheim spoke such a jargon that it was -impossible to make out whether he was speaking English, German, or -Indian. A German immigrant would never have understood him, and the -Americans were obliged to guess at his meaning; but for all that, he -managed very well, and as he had gained a good sum by his trade, he -naturally enough ascribed it all to his own wisdom.</p> - -<p>The sessions were held in the other half of the town, the postmaster -giving up the half of his house for the purpose, as the court-house was -yet to be built. The judge, who travelled this circuit, had come from -Little Rock with several advocates, and took his place by the chimney in -a cane chair. Two tables were placed together in the middle of the room, -though rather nearer the chimney, round which the advocates and the -clerk of the court took their places. A case of assault was first -brought forward; the jury, who must be householders, were chosen, and -sworn, and placed themselves on a long bench against the wall. The -proceedings were opened by the prosecuting attorney, who directed the -attention of the jury to the various laws enacted against this crime, -and then called his witnesses. He was followed by the advocate for the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_231" id="page_231"></a>{231}</span> -defence, who called his witnesses, and concluded with an address to the -jury, in which he did not fail to praise the soundness and acuteness of -their judgment. The prosecuting attorney then rose again, and endeavored -to disparage the statements made on the opposite side, ending with the -remark, that, “in the whole course of his life, he had never known so -flagrant a case.” It was now the judge’s turn, who explained to the jury -the state of the law applicable to the case, and warned them that if -they had any doubts, the law prescribes that the case should be decided -in favor of the defendant. The jury ought now to have withdrawn to -another and distant room; but as, unfortunately, there was no other -room, distant or near, to be had at Perryville, and as the pouring rain -prevented their deliberating in the open air, as at other times, the -horses were turned out of the stable, and the twelve jurymen occupied -their place. The next case was that of a respectable farmer, who was -accused of having shot another’s cow, taken it home, and eaten it. The -case excited considerable interest, as it was stated to have occurred -several years ago, and the penalty was whipping and imprisonment, which -has since been altered. After a long deliberation in the stable, the -jury returned a verdict of “Not guilty.” The sessions lasted several -days, and the crowd dropped off by degrees.</p> - -<p>At this time of the year, before the maize is quite ripe, being soft but -no longer milky, while last year’s store is nearly exhausted, the farmer -rubs the grain on a grater, generally made out of an old coffee-pot, in -which holes are punched with a nail, and thus procures a fine damp -flour, containing all the saccharine qualities<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_232" id="page_232"></a>{232}</span> of the plant, and making -excellent bread. This grating is rather hard work. One day when Kelfer -had grated some maize in front of the house, and the fine bright yellow -flour was heaped up on a clean napkin, a juvenile pig came by, and -playfully seized the corner of the napkin, throwing all the flour into -the dust.</p> - -<p>I had received no letter from Kean, but heard that he had joined a young -German in the purchase of a boat, and was gone into Louisiana. I almost -regretted that I had not accompanied them; but my passion for shooting -impelled me in a different direction, and I longed to be in the Ozark -mountains, of which I had heard so much, and which were only 150 miles -off. Week after week passed away, and I was desirous of helping Kelfer -with his approaching harvest. I passed a great part of my time in the -forest with my dog Bearsgrease, the same that I had brought from Little -Rock, and which had grown to a fine powerful animal. I was still -undetermined whether to go north or south, when an old acquaintance -arrived at Kelfer’s to pass the night, and decided the question.</p> - -<p>It was old Slowtrap, who had formerly lived near the mouth of Fourche le -Fave, but had since removed higher up, not far from Hogarth’s. He had a -sack full of all sorts of articles, including a half bushel of salt -which he had bought at Little Rock, and carried across his horse. He -afterwards told me that he had transported all his family and goods on -horseback, and then I remembered having once met him riding along with -four chairs and a spinning-wheel. The spinning-wheel having made the -horse shy, he had hung it on a<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_233" id="page_233"></a>{233}</span> tree, intending to come back for it; -meantime a backwoodsman had set fire to the dry leaves in the -neighborhood, and just as he arrived he saw it, burnt through and -through, fall in two parts into the fire below.</p> - -<p>A man will sometimes move with his wife and children, and all his goods, -further into the forest, if the grass about his house gets thin, so that -he would be forced to cultivate a little more maize for his cattle.</p> - -<p>Slowtrap spoke much of his father-in-law, who was a keen bear-shooter, -and made me long for the mountains more than ever, by affirming that he -intended to go himself in a few weeks, that I might go with him, and -that he would introduce me to the old gentleman. This drove all thoughts -of the south out of my head, and we settled on marching the following -morning. There is a saying that “short hair is soon brushed;” my baggage -was ready in a few minutes.</p> - -<p>I was sorry to part with the Kelfers, who had been so kind to me, and -treated me as one of their family; but I hoped soon to see them again.</p> - -<p>The November morning broke cold and disagreeable when I started with my -companion. My baggage was not very heavy; I had on deer-skin leggings, -and moccasins, a light hunting-shirt of summer stuff, secured by a broad -leather belt, bearing my tomahawk on the right, and hunting-knife on the -left side, and a tin cup behind. Spare powder and lead were rolled up in -my blanket, with a small bag of roasted coffee, and a clean shirt; a -powder-horn and a leather shot-pouch completed my equipment. My -companion, though an old sportsman, was not equipped for shooting; but -he was pretty well loaded with other things. As I have<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_234" id="page_234"></a>{234}</span> already stated, -he formerly lived near the mouth of the Fourche le Fave, but had moved -about fifty miles further west, carrying his kitchen utensils, tools, -bedding, &c., all on horseback, and driving his cattle and pigs before -him to his new home. Difficult as such a move appears, I know of a -family which moved three times in one year.</p> - -<p>My old friend cut a glorious figure, as he rode beside me. He was about -six feet tall, and as large boned as a fine figure would allow. A pair -of thoroughly honest eyes looked out of a good-humored, weather-beaten -face, and were in constant motion, giving great animation to the massive -figure. Nobody had ever seen him laugh, but those who are well -acquainted with him say, that a little widening twitch of the mouth, and -a slight closing of the corner of the left eye, are certain evidences of -good-humor; neither had anybody ever seen him go faster than at a quick -walk—he seemed to consider it beneath his dignity to run. A well-worn -black coat, with large pockets and flaps, was thrown over his shoulders, -and, notwithstanding the rough weather, his legs were cased in a pair of -thin, light-colored trowsers, which rumpled up high enough to show a -muscular calf above a short sock; a pair of shoes of his own making -covered his feet, while a hat, of any shape but the original, and that -had been black, covered his head. The articles in one end of his bag -were not heavy enough to balance the salt in the other end; so, to -maintain the equilibrium, he was obliged to lean to the left side, and -as he had a large basket, containing a Muscovy duck, on the right arm, -the horse seemed to be between<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_235" id="page_235"></a>{235}</span> him and the basket. An unloaded gun, -that he had accepted in payment of a long-standing debt, lay across the -pommel. He kept me constantly amused with his stories, as we jogged -along the county road.</p> - -<p>When a county road has to be cut, a director is appointed, who is -authorized to assemble all the male population of the county from the -age of eighteen to forty-five; and these stout sons of the forest soon -make a clearance among the trees, and roll their trunks out of the way. -But holes and other hinderances are left in a state of nature, if there -is the slightest chance that a wagon can pass.</p> - -<p>Our road led us near the river, though we seldom saw it, on account of -the canes and rushes through which it flows; moreover, we kept to the -heights as much as possible, for the sake of dry ground. The main course -of the river is from west to east, with very good land on both banks, -forming excellent winter pasture, while the hills, also running east and -west, afford equally good summer pasture amongst the thick pine forests.</p> - -<p>It was long since the road had been inspected. Large broken boughs and -fallen trees lay across it, impeding our progress. According to -Slowtrap, this was quite natural. He maintained that a tree never would -fall any other way than across a road, if it could only reach it, just -as a sweet gum tree always fell on a fence, if it stood near enough. We -passed a school as we went along—one of the usual log-houses—but with -a plank inserted between two of the logs to serve for a desk. The more -distant scholars come on horseback, and tie up their horses to the fence -during school hours. Of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_236" id="page_236"></a>{236}</span> course they bring their dinners with them. -These forest schools seldom pretend to teach more than reading, writing, -and arithmetic; if they attempt geography, it is confined to that of the -United States. In the swamps I once saw a teacher giving lessons in -writing; some of his scholars were eighteen and twenty years old, yet -could not read what they wrote, but copied the letters as we should copy -hieroglyphics. It was just noon as we passed; at this hour master and -scholars make it a rule to play at ball if the weather will allow, so -that they may return with greater zeal to their spelling. The scholars -whom we saw were nearly all grown up.</p> - -<p>Hitherto the weather had been fine; but clouds gathered in the west, and -soon turned to rain. As we were in no great hurry, and as Slowtrap said -that one of his greatest friends lived about half a mile from the road, -we turned to the left, and soon halted before a block-house, whose -chimney smoke indicated a glorious fire within. Old Bahrens, to whom the -house belonged, was not at home, but his two sons, lads fifteen and ten -years of age, gave us a warm reception. We found the room occupied by -three other men, who made room for us, and the fire soon restored warmth -to our half-frozen limbs. Two of the strangers were talking earnestly -about the races, which were shortly to be held in the neighborhood, -while the third seemed to be very tired, for he was fast asleep in his -chair.</p> - -<p>As it grew later and later without any signs of supper, and there was no -woman in the house, we all set to work, took maize out of the corn crib, -and began to grind. But what a mill! It was above an hour<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_237" id="page_237"></a>{237}</span> before we had -flour enough for a tolerable meal; we then moistened it with water, put -it in a flat iron pan, covered it, and set it on the ashes to bake. Milk -and smoked deer-hams formed the remainder of the spread. Having, with -some difficulty, roused our sleeping companion, we commenced upon the -viands, and even our sleepy friend seemed to have banished all other -thoughts in his anxiety to make them disappear with the utmost possible -despatch; but his last mouthful was hardly out of sight, when his eyes -became for a moment fixed, the lids fell, and he was again in a deep -sleep.</p> - -<p>The whole party were rather tired, and as there were no spare beds in -the house, S. and I spread our blankets; the boys gave us two more to -cover us, and all five were soon peaceably extended, one beside the -other, in waiting for the next day’s sun.</p> - -<p>We were up at daybreak, and, to avoid another grind at the old mill, for -which I had conceived the greatest respect, we started before breakfast. -The horse, having had a good supply of food, was again saddled and -bridled, the bag with salt, &c., laid across, my old comrade climbed up, -I handed him his duck basket and old shooting iron, cast my blanket over -my shoulder, and shaking hands with our two new acquaintances, the third -being still asleep, we went off to the west for the abode of my -companion. The weather had cleared up, and with light heart and light -step we jogged along the well-beaten track; Bearsgrease snuffing the -trails of the deer which had crossed the road in the course of the -night. He stopped at every fresh trail, asking with entreating eyes for -leave to follow<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_238" id="page_238"></a>{238}</span> it; but we had no notion of shooting just then, and -kept straight on. As the day advanced, our stomachs began to reproach us -for such unfriendly treatment, when, about 200 yards in front, we saw a -gang of wild turkeys running along the road. One word of encouragement -to Bearsgrease, and he seemed to fly rather than run after the -long-legged turkeys, who soon finding that their legs would not save -them, took to their wings, and flew heavily to the nearest trees.</p> - -<p>As fast as I could I had followed up the dog, who had singled out a -turkey-cock, and was bounding and barking round the tree in which he had -taken refuge, and whence, with outstretched neck, he was turning his -head first to one side then to the other, intently watching the motions -of Bearsgrease; I was enabled to approach unperceived and knock him -over. Meantime S. had lighted a jolly fire, and we sat rather too long -over our meal, considering, or rather not considering, that we had a bad -bit of road before us, and that the weather began to look threatening.</p> - -<p>For half a mile the road led through the “mounds,”—small hills, which -are very frequent in this part of Arkansas, principally on low ground. -There can be no doubt but that they have been formed by the hand of man, -as they are in regular rows, from twenty to forty yards apart, six or -seven feet high, and about twelve feet in diameter. The one in the -middle of a row is always of an oval form, while the others are round. -There are sometimes from twelve to twenty rows, with from ten to twenty -and twenty-five mounds in a row, all at regular distances. I have spoken -with several Americans who had dug into them, in the hope<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_239" id="page_239"></a>{239}</span> of -discovering treasures; but they only found broken pottery, burnt wood, -and now and then a bone. They are situated in the most fertile soil of -the State, and the Indians know nothing about them.</p> - -<p>At length the swamps were behind us. We crossed a small prairie, passed -an old buffalo salt-lick, and arrived at Slowtrap’s dwelling, planted on -a spur of the hills which ran out into the plains. It was in no way -different from the usual log-houses: sixteen feet square, from nine to -ten high, with an enormous fireplace, no window, and a weighted roof; -close by was a field of about seven acres, planted with maize. His wife -and children stood at the door as we arrived, and although I knew that -they were much attached to each other, and lived happily together, and -he had been about three weeks absent, not the least word was exchanged -that could be construed into a greeting. “Take my saddle in,” said S. to -his eldest son, a boy of eight years old, who was leaning on the fence, -looking at us as if we were perfect strangers, in whom he had no -concern. At last, when the horse was cared for, and all things in their -places, S. went into the house, took a seat, and lifted his youngest -child into his lap;—and then he said, “How do you do, all of you?” This -distant reserve of the Americans, so prevalent even in their own -families, often struck cold on my heart, and made me regret my native -land. Man and wife are often as reserved towards each other as two -strangers who meet for the first time, and care not about meeting again. -I have seen Americans leave home to be absent for months, without -shaking hands with their wives, or saying “Good-by,” and it is the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_240" id="page_240"></a>{240}</span> same -on their return. I must believe, for the honor of the Americans, that -this reserve is mere custom, and does not proceed from any real want of -affection, as I have seen proofs of deep feeling amongst them, but it -always made a disagreeable impression on me. But still worse was it to -see Germans aping this fashion, as often happened to be my lot.</p> - -<p>When quietly seated, I took a survey of the dwelling. In two corners -stood two large beds, covered with good stout quilts of many colors; -between the beds, about four feet from the ground, was a shelf holding a -few more quilts, and the linen of the family, which was not -over-abundant, comprising three or four articles for each person. Under -this shelf were two “gums,” trunks of a hollow tree, about a foot in -diameter, and two and a half or three feet high, with a piece of board -nailed on the bottom. They are applied to all sorts of purposes: I have -seen them used as beehives; these, I subsequently found, were one for -flour and the other for salt. Two wooden hooks over the door supported -my host’s long rifle, with its powder-horn and shot-pouch. A shelf held -some shoemaker’s tools, leather, &c., Gun’s Domestic Medicine, a family -Bible, the Life of Washington, the Life of Marion, Franklin’s Maxims, an -almanac, and a well-worn map of the United States. Various files, awls, -broken knives, and a bullet-mould, were stuck into the crevices of the -logs near the fireplace. On the left of it were two short shelves, with -four plates, two cups, three saucers, some tin pots, and a large -coffee-pot, all as bright and clean as possible. In the corner of the -fireplace was an iron pan with a cover, for baking<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_241" id="page_241"></a>{241}</span> bread, and two -saucepans, one broken. Several joints of smoked meat hung from the roof, -surrounded by strips of dried pumpkin suspended on poles.</p> - -<p>The above-named boy, a girl of ten, a blue-eyed, flaxen-haired, -rosy-cheeked girl of four, diligently munching a bunch of wild grapes, -and the little one on my friend’s lap, formed the family; they all -looked shyly at me, though they had seen me six months before, so that I -was not quite a stranger to them.</p> - -<p>We had agreed to set off for the mountains at once—but S. found some -business to detain him at home, so it was put off till the next week, -and I amused myself in the mean time as well as I could; and as I was -acquainted with the country, I took my rifle, and paid a few visits to -old acquaintances, returning to Slowtrap’s on the 12th December, partly -on account of the cold wet weather, and partly to mend my moccasins, -which had suffered severely from the sharp stones of these mountains. -Slowtrap happened to be mending a pair of shoes at the same time. It is -a general practice with the backwoodsmen to make their own shoes, and a -regular shoemaker is a scarce article in this part of the world. As they -are thrown on their own resources from their youth, these Americans are -very skilful in providing for their necessary wants, and are -particularly expert with the axe, which they begin to wield as soon as -their arms are strong enough to lift it. They use it for a variety of -purposes—building houses, laying roofs and floors, forming the chimneys -and doors, the only other tool used being an auger; and nothing amuses -them more than to see the awkwardness of a new comer, when first he -handles an axe.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_242" id="page_242"></a>{242}</span> Besides making their own shoes, they understand enough -of tanning to prepare the leather; they make their own ploughs, dig -wells, &c.; for all which operations Europeans require so many different -workmen.</p> - -<p>As we sat together before the fire, there was no difficulty in getting -Slowtrap to relate some of his adventures with the Indians in his early -days. In the evening we brought in some pumpkins, and as we cut them -into thin rings to hang on the poles to dry he began to speak in the -following words of the perils he had been exposed to in Kentucky, and -his narrow escapes from the Indians: “Kentucky was at that time a -wilderness, when my father, my uncle, and myself arrived near the -dwelling of Daniel Boone, to look about for a spot that would suit us; -for North Carolina, where we then lived, began to be too populous, and a -man who wanted to shoot a turkey or partridge was tired before he had -walked half an hour, from the number of fences he was obliged to climb -over. I was then just eighteen, as strong as a four-year-old bear, and -was delighted at the thought of meeting the Indians. It was about this -time of the year, and the game we saw made our hearts bound: numbers of -bears, deer, and buffaloes; while the turkeys would hardly get out of -our way. It would tire you to tell you of all the sport we had, for no -country in the world could boast of more game than Kentucky thirty years -ago; but now it is no better there than it was then in North Carolina, -and five years hence, a man who wants to shoot a bear in Arkansas, will -have many a weary mile to tramp. One evening we arrived at the edge of a -cane-brake, and as there was good feeding for the horses, we<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_243" id="page_243"></a>{243}</span> resolved -to pass the night there. We hobbled the forelegs of the horses with some -bark of the papao tree, and hung a bell round the neck of my uncle’s -mare. Yet, not being sure of escaping the vigilance of the Indians, we -kept watch by turns. Nothing suspicious occurred till about midnight, -when the sound of the bell ceased, which I, having the watch at the -time, thought rather extraordinary, as the horses were not in the habit -of lying down till morning. The dogs also were restless, particularly a -greyheaded bear-hound, who gave a howl when the wind came from the -quarter where the horses had been left. I did not wake the two seniors, -but I passed an anxious night. Towards morning I heard the bell again, -but further off, and more to the right. My father woke about daybreak, -and I told him what had disquieted me. It seemed rather suspicious to -him also, but he thought the horses might perhaps have strayed a little -in search of fresh reeds. As soon as it was broad daylight, he took his -bridle and rifle, and went with ‘Watch,’ the old dog, towards the sound -of the bell, to bring back the horses. My uncle woke in the mean time. -We had set a delicate morsel to broil. I was catching the dripping from -some roasting bear’s meat, in a piece of hollow bark, to baste the -turkey, when my father came back without the horses, and said he had -found infallible traces of Indians near our camp. My uncle wished to -examine the marks; so we shouldered our rifles, and proceeded to the -place where the horses had been feeding the evening before. In one -rather moist place there was a very clear impression of a moccasin, and -one of the savages had inconsiderately stepped on the trunk of a fallen -tree,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_244" id="page_244"></a>{244}</span> which being rotten, had yielded to his weight, leaving the mark -of a foot. While examining it, we heard a noise in the canes. In an -instant our rifles were all directed to the spot; but it was only my -horse sticking his head out of the canes, and neighing at sight of us. -My uncle now settled that, as he was best acquainted with the cunning -and tricks of the Indians, he would seek the horses alone, and nothing -we urged could dissuade him from his purpose. He took my father’s -bridle, and my horse, and was soon mounted, slowly and cautiously -following up the trail. Losing sight of him, we went back to the camp to -look after our breakfast, which we had forgotten in the first -excitement. We remained constantly listening for the sound of the bell, -when we heard a shot, and directly afterwards three more in quick -succession. We were up in an instant, started towards the sound, and -soon heard the gallop of a horse, and saw my uncle advancing at full -speed. When he reached us he pulled up short, so that the horse reared. -His eyes were glazed;—he was very pale, reeled in his saddle, and fell -into my arms, which I extended to receive him. It was well for us that -the Indians had not followed him, or we should have fallen an easy prey. -My uncle recovered after a short time, and told us, with failing voice, -that as he was following up the trail, he distinctly heard the bell -again at a little distance, and riding cautiously forward, rather -distrustful of the deep silence, he saw my father’s horse standing by a -fallen tree. He rode up to him, keeping a sharp look-out all round; and -just as he leaned over to take hold of the bell-strap which was round -his neck, an Indian appeared not fifteen paces<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_245" id="page_245"></a>{245}</span> off, took aim, and -fired; feeling himself hit, he let go the horse, brought forward his -rifle, and fired, when more dark figures appeared right and left. He -turned his horse, and gave him the spurs. He sank fainting to the -ground, and the dark blood flowed out as we opened his clothes. He was -hit in three places, and two of the wounds were mortal. After a few -minutes he raised himself again, gave us each a hand, which we pressed -in silence, drew a deep breath, and fell back a corpse. We buried him on -the spot, and vowed a deep revenge, which we faithfully consummated: a -few nights afterwards, the wolves were tearing the flesh from three -corpses over the fresh grave.”</p> - -<p>Having finished his tale, my host sat for some time with his head -leaning on his hand, thinking of times long past. His wife had fallen -asleep: she had probably, heard the tale many times before, and as it -was rather late, we were all glad to retire.</p> - -<p>The dogs barked several times during the night, and about an hour and a -half before daylight, they were quite furious; supposing their -excitement to be caused by raccoons, or opossums, we started up, and -took our guns, called the dogs, and went into the piercing cold morning -air, though it was too dark to see one’s hand; my thin deer-skin -moccasins were soon frozen, which by no means added to my agreeable -sensations. The bark of the dogs soon showed that they had chased -something to a tree. As our feet were dreadfully cold, and it was still -too dark to shoot, we lighted a fire, and though the dogs enjoyed its -warmth, they never forgot the object of our being there, keeping their -eyes<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_246" id="page_246"></a>{246}</span> fixed on the tree, and giving, from time to time, a short -impatient howl. At length a gleam appeared in the east; gradually the -forms of the nearest objects became visible; as the light increased, we -could make out, on one of the upper branches of a tree, a dark spot, -which afterwards was distinctly seen to be a raccoon. S—— raised his -rifle slowly, and took aim; the dogs jumped up, and looked to and fro -from the muzzle of the gun to the dark spot on the tree, giving a slight -whine—the piece became steady—a flash—a sharp report—and the -creature fell dead from the top of the tree. The dogs seized it -instantly, and it cost some trouble to rescue it from their fangs, -before the skin was quite spoiled.</p> - -<p>We returned to the house, and rested again till breakfast. After -breakfast I went out to shoot turkeys, which were very numerous; but -when I descended to the lower valley of the river, I found such an -abundance of winter grapes, that I thought no more of my shooting, but -gathering a good quantity, I lay down under a tree to enjoy them. After -lying there about a couple of hours, I was roused by hearing the turkeys -calling; so, hiding myself behind a fallen tree, I used my decoy pipe, -and ten or a dozen stout fellows came strutting along. When they arrived -within about twenty paces I gave a whistle, which brought them to a -stand, and I shot the largest through the head. Satisfied with my prize, -I returned to the house, and found that the grapes had quite spoiled my -dinner.</p> - -<p>As the weather turned out fine and warm in the afternoon, we determined -to hunt in the wood for a<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_247" id="page_247"></a>{247}</span> swarm of wild bees, which we had sought for -in vain about six months before. We took some bait with us, and went to -a spot about half a mile off.</p> - -<p>To induce bees to take bait in the fall of the year, the hunter looks -out for a small open space in their neighborhood, and if he cannot find -one he must make a clearance with his knife and tomahawk, stick a branch -upright in the ground, and lay some leaves on it spread with a little -thinned honey. The bees soon discover it, and when they have got as much -of the honey as they can carry, they rise in circles, which become -larger and larger, till they attain a certain height; then they dash off -direct for their own tree, to deposit their store in the general -warehouse. The bee-hunter must take particular notice of the line of -their flight, which requires a good eye, and then carry his bait some -two hundred yards further in that direction, when the bees will soon -flock round it again. If, when loaded, they keep the same course, it is -a sign that the tree is still in that direction, and the bait must be -carried further, until they fly the other way. Then the bee-hunter will -know that he has passed the tree, and that it must be between his -present and his last station, and he is not long in finding it. When he -comes near the tree, and the bees are at work, their unsteady zigzag -flight will betray its proximity.</p> - -<p>The first time we moved our bait, the bees flew backward, so we knew we -could not be more than a hundred yards from their tree; but the -approaching night prevented our discovering it. Next morning about ten -o’clock, as it began to get warm, we returned<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_248" id="page_248"></a>{248}</span> to our hunt, and in less -than half an hour, found the hole where the little laborers were passing -in and out. It was in a nearly decayed, not very large post-oak, a tree -that prefers moist soils, though it also grows on hills. It bears small -and rather sweet acorns; its wood is very durable, and will remain long -in the ground without rotting. I rode hastily back to the house, for we -had taken a horse with us for the chase, and returned with a pail, an -axe, a knife, and a spoon. The tree soon fell under our blows—smoke was -made—the bees stupefied—an opening cut—and a most beautiful sight for -a bee-hunter presented itself, in a number of well-filled cells. We -filled the pail with the best, ate as much as our stomachs would bear, -set the tree on fire, that the bees might not lead us astray in our next -hunt, and returned to the house.</p> - -<p>As there were several things to be done about the house, we remained at -home, cut down firewood, and carried it to the house, ground flour in -Slowtrap’s excellent steel mill, and when the evening shadows began to -lengthen fast, we sat by the fire, and the old fellow, rendered -good-humored by the successful bee-hunt, began again with his stories. -In the course of the day, we had seen a man pass by with a smooth-bored -gun, and as such a thing was a rarity in the backwoods, the conversation -turned on this circumstance. He said: “I once had a smooth-bored gun, -called a musket, and not far from the house where we then lived was a -small lake, generally covered with wild fowl. One morning I took the old -thumper, for it kicked tremendously, and lounged towards the lake to -have a shot. I had not gone far along the bank,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_249" id="page_249"></a>{249}</span> when I saw through a -gap a number of ducks, swimming quietly on the other side of a thick -bush; a fallen tree stretching out into the lake, seemed to offer a good -bridge to approach them by. When I got to the end of it, and was about -sixty yards from the birds, I raised the heavy old musket to take aim, -but knowing how old kill-devil kicked, I leant as far forward as -possible, with the firm conviction that the recoil would drive me back -on the tree. Three ducks were swimming in a line, and thinking this a -good chance, I pulled the trigger, leaning if possible still further -forward in the act; but it only snapped, the expected recoil failed, and -I fell head over heels into the lake. I had some trouble in getting back -again to the shore, and never saw ducks or musket again.”</p> - -<p>The sky seemed to promise a continuance of fine weather, and as there -was no prospect at present of Slowtrap’s visit to the mountains, I -resolved to take a little shooting excursion alone. The shooting on the -north of the river was not so good as on the south, as there were fewer -settlements; so I determined to cross over, and try my luck. A young man -of the name of Curly lived close to the south bank; he was certainly -strongly suspected of horse-stealing, but in other respects was a good -fellow, and a capital sportsman; his little weakness respecting -horse-flesh was a matter of indifference to me—he could not steal any -of mine: so I went to the river and hailed, when he soon brought his -canoe and carried me across.</p> - -<p>He was easily persuaded to accompany me for a few days, first requesting -time to prepare some provisions. He lived in a small block-house close -to the river, surrounded<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_250" id="page_250"></a>{250}</span> by trees, and without an inch of cultivated -land; he subsisted mostly by shooting. He had only lately arrived; his -mother, wife, and sister lived in the house with him. As he had no flour -in store, it was necessary to grind some, but his mill was more like a -mortar than any thing else. Such mills are frequent in Arkansas. A sound -tree is cut off about three feet from the ground, and hollowed by fire, -knife, and chisel till it will hold about as much as a pail; it is made -as smooth as possible, and a logger-head, or pestle of hard wood, is -suspended to a balanced pole, such as is frequently fitted to wells. It -may be imagined that pounding corn in this way is hard work, and as only -a small quantity at a time can be prepared, it has to be done before -every meal; but this is the only resource of all those who are too poor -to buy a steel mill. At last Curly had as much as would serve for two -days, in case we shot nothing. He rolled up in his blanket all the -things he meant to take, hung his tin pot and tomahawk to his belt, and -off we set into the glorious freedom of the forest.</p> - -<p>We might have gone about three miles, when we came on the trail of -several deer, though we had seen nothing of the precious creatures -themselves; and as it began to grow dark, and we found ourselves near a -bubbling spring, and a black hawberry bush looked very attractive, we -resolved to camp there, and to begin our sport as early as possible in -the morning. We cast off our blankets, laid down our rifles, and -collected wood for a fire, the night promising to be rather cold. We -soon had a fire of which a volcano need not have been ashamed, and lay -down to repose. Our supper consisted<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_251" id="page_251"></a>{251}</span> of dried venison, slices of bacon, -maize bread, and coffee—a princely repast for the forest, but we hoped -to have fresh meat on the morrow.</p> - -<p>We breakfasted with the first gleam of light, fed the dogs, and related -stories till it was light enough to see the sights on the muzzles of the -rifles; then taking our preconcerted directions, we trod lightly and -cautiously over the dried leaves. A little before sunrise I heard the -crack of Curly’s rifle; a few minutes later a second report, then a -third. I stood still for about a quarter of an hour, in case a -frightened deer should bound past. Nothing moved; I continued my march. -I had not gone far when I saw a majestic buck at a walk. I crept lightly -to a right angle with his course; when about eighty yards off, I gave a -hail: he stopped, and my ball pierced his shoulder; after a few bounds, -he lay struggling in the yellow leaves. Bearsgrease rushed after him, -but finding him already dead, he only licked the wound, and lay quietly -beside him, waiting for his share of the prize. I took the skin and the -two legs, hanging the latter on a tree with the skin over them, cut a -few bits of the rest for Bearsgrease, leaving the remainder for the -wolves and vultures, and continued my march. Soon after I heard a shot, -about a hundred yards off on the other side of a thick jungle, and -proceeded towards the sound. It turned out to be Curly, who had killed a -turkey; he was lying under a tree, and told me, with a mournful visage, -that, having wounded a buck, he was following him over some loose -stones, when he sprained his ankle, and could hardly move, being obliged -to leave the wounded deer to its fate.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_252" id="page_252"></a>{252}</span></p> - -<p>As we had traversed the country in a circle, we were not far from our -last night’s camp. I helped him to it as well as I could, and both being -hungry, we roasted the turkey. But Curly had lost all heart for -shooting, and, with the help of a big stick, limped slowly homewards, -where he could lay up his leg to nurse. I could not tear myself away so -soon, and continued my sport alone.</p> - -<p>As the sky grew cloudy and threatening, I made a tent of my blanket, and -collected wood enough to defy any quantity of rain that might fall. When -all this was arranged, I went to the tree where I had left my venison -and skin, and to give Bearsgrease another feed from the carcase. But I -was too late; the vultures had left nothing but the bones, and had torn -the skin on the tree, which, however, I was in time to rescue, and -hanging it over my shoulders, with the legs safe in my arms, I returned -to my camp. Having made a good fire, and roasted a slice of meat, the -coffee being all gone, and the bread reduced to one small piece, I fed -my dog, and lay down to repose. About midnight I was awakened by a -formidable thunderstorm. Bearsgrease began to howl dreadfully, and close -behind me an oak burst into flames. Flash followed flash, while the -thunder was incessant; the whole forest seemed to swim in a lake of -fiery brimstone, the rain poured in torrents, and the little stream -swelled to a foaming river. When the storm ceased, silence and darkness -took its place, only disturbed by the rustling of the rain falling -perpendicularly on the leaves. My blanket protected me well; I was -perfectly dry, and soon fast asleep again. Towards morning it cleared -up, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_253" id="page_253"></a>{253}</span> the weather was the most glorious for shooting that could -possibly be imagined. I was on foot by daybreak, and by ten o’clock I -had three deer hanging to the trees. My last night’s repose having been -broken by the storm, and yesterday’s and to-day’s exertions having -fatigued me very much, I threw myself under a tree, and enjoyed a -delightful nap. The sun was near the horizon when I awoke, and there was -hardly time for me to return to camp and collect wood before dark, for -the night threatened to be very cold; but it was bright starlight, and -my blanket was dry,—so I rolled myself comfortably in its folds.</p> - -<p>I lay awake till past midnight, giving the reins to my imagination; and -when I fell asleep I dreamed of stretched deerskins, and that -Bearsgrease was chasing an immense buck, when his loud barking and -howling awoke me. I patted him to keep him quiet, and found his hair all -bristling up. I thought wolves must be near us; and listening -attentively, I heard the cautious tread of some heavy beast over the dry -frosty leaves.</p> - -<p>I laid some dry fir branches, which were near me, on the fire, to make -it burn up bright, and placed myself between it and the noise of the -footsteps, in order to distinguish the eyes of my untimely visitor, and -shoot him. Three times I caught sight of two glowing balls, and from -their rapid disappearance I was convinced that I had to do with a -panther. He went round and round the fire several times, but never close -enough for me to distinguish his form;—and I passed half an hour with -my rifle at my cheek, in the greatest anxiety, the dog pressing close to -my side, with all his nerves on the stretch, following the tread<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_254" id="page_254"></a>{254}</span> of the -panther, and giving a fearful howl every time he passed across the wind.</p> - -<p>The brute, not possessing courage enough to attack, at length withdrew; -but I remained a good quarter of an hour longer on the watch, till the -dog, persuaded that all was safe, had lain down again, when I followed -his example, wrapped myself in my blanket, and was soon fast asleep.</p> - -<p>The morning was bitterly cold; and as I had nothing on my feet but a -pair of thin deer-skin moccasins, not even stockings, I thought of a -plan I had learned from an old sportsman, and bathed my feet in the icy -cold water of the stream, dried them well, and put on my moccasins. My -feet were soon in a glow, and remained warm all the morning.</p> - -<p>I started at daylight, and followed the course of the stream downwards; -but the bushes grew thicker and thicker, and I was about returning to -cross the hill to another brook, when I caught sight of a noble stag in -the thicket on my right. I crept quickly and silently round the bush to -cut him off, when suddenly I heard a most heart-rending cry from a deer. -My first impulse was to rush towards the sound, and on the first -movement I made for this purpose, Bearsgrease bounded forwards; but I -thought better of it, and a sharp whistle stopped the dog in his career. -A second fainter whistle brought him to my side; then, hiding behind a -tree, I reflected on what was best to be done.</p> - -<p>The shriek certainly came from a deer, and nothing but a panther could -have caused it; for if it had been a wolf, all would not have been -silent again so soon, as a wolf could not have overpowered a deer so -quickly.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_255" id="page_255"></a>{255}</span></p> - -<p>Now, I had often heard from Americans how the panther darts on his prey, -kills it in an instant, and, after eating his fill, buries or covers up -the rest for a future meal. I resolved to try and make sure of the -panther, and, if possible, to creep up to him unperceived. I did not -then know how difficult it was to outwit a panther; but this time -fortune favored me.</p> - -<p>After waiting about half an hour, I thought I might make the attempt, -and crept lightly and cautiously towards the thicket; the dog, well -knowing my object, crept as silently after me. Just as I gained the edge -of the thicket, and was looking out for the best place to enter it with -the least noise, I heard a light rustling. My heart began to beat -violently; the bush opened, and my eyes encountered the fierce orbs of -the panther. Doubtless, in the first moment of surprise he did not know -exactly what to do; but his surprise did not last long: a panther has a -bad conscience, and justly supposes a foe in every living being not -belonging to his own race; and, crouching down about twenty paces from -me in the yellow grass, he was preparing either to make a spring, or to -hide himself—I could not tell which. But I was not idle; during the -time he stooped, my arm had recovered its steadiness, the rifle cracked, -the animal made one spring upwards, and fell dead to the earth. -Bearsgrease seized him on the instant, and seemed to take exquisite -pleasure in shaking the skin of his deadliest foe; and he cast many a -longing look behind, when, at my command, he followed up the panther’s -trail. We soon came to the place where he had killed the buck, and -covered it with leaves; the skin had been so mauled that it was -useless,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_256" id="page_256"></a>{256}</span> but I stripped off the panther’s, and set out on my return to -my camp, deciding to go back to old Slowtrap’s, and to commence my march -to the Ozark mountains as soon as possible.</p> - -<p>On arriving at the camp I tied up the skin with strips of bark, and -although I took very little of the venison with me, I had a heavy load. -I reached Curly’s in the evening. As it was nearly dark, I had no fancy -for crossing the river at night, and creeping for half an hour through a -cane-brake, with the chance of getting my eyes poked out; so I remained -with Curly. The house was small, but it contained two large bedsteads, -one table, three chairs, two plates, and one cup; a hole in the wall did -duty for the absent window.</p> - -<p>We passed a very pleasant evening. Curly sang well, and gave us a number -of Irish comic songs, till, tired with laughing and the severe exertions -of the day, I rolled myself in my blanket, and laid myself by the fire. -I was up at daybreak, and the river being low, waded through, hastened -to Slowtrap’s, and spread out my skin. Slowtrap was out shooting wild -fowl, which had collected in such numbers on a little river running into -the Fourche le Fave, that I never saw any thing like it; they positively -covered the water, and a good double-barrelled gun might have done -immense havoc, particularly as the steep banks favored the approach to -within thirty yards of the ducks.</p> - -<p>Supposing the old fellow not to be far off, I took my rifle, and lounged -down to the brink of the river; not with any intention of shooting, as -my rifle had too large a bore; but I came upon a string of ducks, not -more<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_257" id="page_257"></a>{257}</span> than fifteen yards off. This was too enticing; I raised the gun, -and off went the golden green head of the largest of them. I reloaded, -fished out my bird, and was turning up the stream, when I heard -Slowtrap’s gun above a mile off, and as I had no intention of walking so -far, I took my duck by the neck and walked home. Where was my home? -Wherever I happened to be—where I had erected a bark shed, or spread my -blanket, or lighted a fire, or where the hospitable roof of a farmer or -backwoodsman received me; though the next morning might find me with all -my goods on my back—no heavy burden—seeking new shooting-ground, and a -new home. What then?—I went home, and commenced mending my old -moccasins once more, though they were almost worn out; and as I had some -tanned deer-skin, I cut out a new pair, for the others would have never -survived a long march.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/p257i_sml.jpg" width="33" height="34" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_258" id="page_258"></a>{258}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_IX" id="CHAPTER_IX"></a>CHAPTER IX.</h2> - -<p class="chead">HUNTING ANECDOTES AND EXPERIENCES—CHRISTMAS—CONWELL AND HIS REMINISCENCES.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">A backwoods gun—Anecdote of a panther—My dog -“Bearsgrease”—Collmar’s house—Hunting a tame bear—Hunting -expedition—Hailstorm—Spirit-seller—Route of Eastern Indians; -their sufferings—The “Mulberry” river—Christmas-eve—Conwell, the -old settler—Hunting with Conwell—His age and robust frame—A -bear—Fat turkeys—Anecdotes of the Indians; their -cunning—Anecdote of the moccasins—Method of hanging up -deer—Dangerous work with a buck—Anecdote of a -buffalo-hunt—successful sport.</p></div> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">Meantime</span> it grew dusk, and Slowtrap returned with seven ducks, three of -which had had their heads shot off. Meat was now plentiful. After S. had -made himself comfortable—that is to say, had taken off his hat, laid -aside his rifle and pouch, pulled off his wet shoes and stockings, taken -unto himself a slice of cold turkey, with its appropriate maize bread -and boiled pumpkin, seated himself with his feet to the fire, cut off a -piece of his chair to make a toothpick, and begun complacently to pick -his teeth, a sure sign that he felt comfortable, all which operations -took about three quarters of an hour—he asked, “Well, what’s the news?” -As the answer was not encouraging, another long pause ensued. When it -was quite dark, and a good fire was burning, his wife brought us some -bread<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_259" id="page_259"></a>{259}</span> and milk, of which he partook largely, and then began to thaw, -and speak of his exploits: he had fired eleven times, and his piece had -missed fire twenty-seven times, a habit the old flint gun had; but he -had nevertheless brought home seven ducks, and he had seen a fresh -panther trail; the panther had probably seen him from a tree, and jumped -down and escaped.</p> - -<p>He took particular notice of my panther skin, and thought that there -must be a number of them about, but that formerly there were more than -twice as many in Kentucky. “Ah, at that time,” said he, “a man might -shoot five or six deer before breakfast, and once I had got up at -daylight, and shot two noble bucks, and stalked a third for half a mile, -when he got scent of me, and escaped. I was tired with my exertions, and -had scarcely any sleep all night, for a rascally panther had been -howling near me, and several times came so close to the fire that I -could make out his form, though he never gave me time to put a ball into -him with certainty. So I threw myself under a tree, to rest a little, -meaning then to continue my sport; but somehow my eyes closed -unconsciously;—and I can’t say how long I may have lain there, when, -still half asleep, I heard a strong rustling amongst the dry leaves -which surrounded me, and felt that they were being thrown over me, so -that I was quite covered in a few minutes. Surprise at first, and then -an instinct of danger, which I did not quite understand, kept me -motionless, awaiting the result: before I had formed any resolution, I -heard something moving stealthily away, and cautiously raising my head, -saw a panther disappear in the thicket. My first act was to jump up and -look to my priming, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_260" id="page_260"></a>{260}</span> as I saw nothing more of the beast, though I -was sure that it would return, I resolved to oppose cunning to cunning. -A piece of a broken bough lay near; I dragged it to the spot, and -covered it carefully with dried leaves—then, slinging my rifle on my -back, I mounted a neighboring oak to await in patience, but with a -beating heart, the conclusion of the adventure, as the panther might -return at any moment. I may have sat for rather more than half an hour, -my eyes steadfastly fixed on the place where the panther had vanished, -when the bough began to move, and the female panther (for a female it -turned out to be), reappeared with two cubs, intending, no doubt, that I -should serve as supper for the family. This time she had reckoned -without her host. I remained silent and motionless in the tree, watching -every movement and keeping the rifle in readiness. She crept stealthily -to within fifteen paces of the spot where she had left me covered up -with leaves, and crouched down with her green eyes glaring upon the log; -the next instant she made a spring, struck the claws of both her fore -feet into it, and buried her sharp fangs deep in the rotten wood. When -she found herself deceived she remained for a moment or two in the same -attitude, quite confounded. I did not leave her much time for -consideration; my ball crashed through her brain, and she fell dead on -her supposed prey, without a moan. I killed the two young ones easily -enough.”</p> - -<p>He had hardly finished the anecdote, when the dogs began to bark, and, -by and by, we jumped up to see what was the matter. It was a neighbor, -named Collmar, from the other side of the hill. I took the</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_260a" id="page_260a"></a>{260a}</span></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_260b" id="page_260b"></a>{260b}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/p260bi_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/p260bi_sml.jpg" width="327" height="500" alt="[Image unavailable: THE PANTHER AT FAULT.]" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">THE PANTHER AT FAULT.</span> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_261" id="page_261"></a>{261}</span></p> - -<p class="nind">saddle off his horse, and laid it under one of the beds, tied up the -horse to a young tree, shoved a roughly-hewn trough before him, which I -filled with maize, and his eager munching proved how well he was -satisfied with all the proceedings. Collmar had come over the hill to -invite us to assist in erecting a new house. He had collected all the -logs on the spot, and now, according to American custom, was calling on -his neighbors to come and assist in raising them. S. was his nearest -neighbor but one, and lived nine miles distant; the next dwelt eight -miles further.</p> - -<p>I promised to come at all events, but it was against Slowtrap’s habit to -promise any thing two days in advance. Besides, his wife and his -youngest child were both unwell. We shortened the evening with stories -and anecdotes. Collmar was off with the dawn to prepare for the -following day. I took my rifle and lounged into the forest with -Bearsgrease to look for a turkey. He drove a gang into the trees, at -less than half a mile from the house; but the wood was so thick and -overgrown, that before I could come up to see which trees they had -perched in, they had so hidden amongst the branches that there was not a -trace of them to be seen. I therefore whistled for my dog, and hid -behind a tree to await the time when they would think themselves safe, -and begin to call. I had not long to wait; ere long they began to cry, -and about a hundred yards in front of me, a large cock raised himself on -a branch, where he had nestled without my perceiving him. Without trying -to get nearer, I took aim at once, and hit the turkey, which fell -flapping from the tree; but the bushes were so thick that I should have -lost him, had not<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_262" id="page_262"></a>{262}</span> Bearsgrease dashed in with the greatest intrepidity, -in spite of thorns and creepers. The turkey, whose fall had been broken -by the wild vines, had no sooner touched the ground, than he made a -quick run for a cane-brake, and disappeared, with Bearsgrease bounding -and barking on his trail. On forcing my way through the canes, I -witnessed an interesting struggle between the two. The dog was still -young, and the turkey a fellow of twenty or twenty-two pounds; and -Bearsgrease, knowing that he must not injure him, tried to hold him with -his fore paws, whilst the turkey, which was only wounded in the left -wing, constantly succeeded in escaping, and running a yard or two before -the dog could pin him again. After watching them for some time, I put an -end to the struggle by cutting off the turkey’s head with my knife, and -carried him home. I then saddled Slowtrap’s old pony, and set off over -the mountain to gain Collmar’s house before night, leaving Bearsgrease -behind me.</p> - -<p>The hills and rivers south of the Arkansas almost all run, like that -river, from west to east, and the hills have a peculiar formation. The -middle row or back-bone ridge is the highest, and generally on either -side are two or three lower ranges of hills, running parallel to the -main range, and sloping more and more towards the plain. All the smaller -rivers which run into the Arkansas from this side, have such hills -between them. I rode slowly up and down these hills looking out for -game. I had left my hunting-shirt behind, and a sharp north wind began -to chill me a little; but I did not like covering myself with the -blanket which lay across my saddle. Suddenly I saw a fox watching me<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_263" id="page_263"></a>{263}</span> -from the side of a hill beyond a little brook. I raised myself slowly in -the saddle, and fired; but my hand shook so with the cold that I missed -him. After the report, when the smoke cleared away, the fox had -disappeared; I jumped off and ran to the place where he had been -standing, to see if I could find traces of the ball—finding none I -reloaded, and returned to the horse, which was quietly grazing. With my -left foot in the stirrup, and in the act of throwing my right leg over -the saddle, what was my astonishment to see the fox in the same place as -before, looking as unconcerned as if nothing had happened! I had to turn -my horse before I could take aim, and the fox turned at the same time. A -loud whistle made him stop for a moment to see what it was; he was off -again before I could fire, but not quick enough to escape my ball. The -jump he gave showed he was hit; so, throwing myself off the horse, I -hastened after him. When he heard the bushes rustling, he stood still to -listen. This allowed me to approach him: the shot had broken his left -hind leg; and, throwing away every thing that hindered me in running, I -darted after him. Dragging his wounded leg, he limped along the side of -the hill; but, finding that I gained on him, he turned towards the -summit. I had run for a good half mile, and too much out of breath to -breast the hill, I soon lost sight of him. Heated and tired, I returned -to the horse, picking up my rifle, powder-horn, pouch, and cap, by the -way, enveloped myself in my blanket, and mounted my patient steed.</p> - -<p>I soon crossed the highest summit of the range, and running down by the -side of a small stream southwards<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_264" id="page_264"></a>{264}</span> from the hills, in about an hour and -a half arrived at the place where Collmar’s house was to be built, and -where some of those who had arrived before me were occupied in cutting -the logs.</p> - -<p>The ground was already prepared and planks cut; other neighbors arrived -from time to time with their dogs and guns, and the clearing was filled -with laughing, talkative groups.</p> - -<p>The horses were hobbled near some reeds, with plenty of maize shaken -down in a dry place. In the evening, we all assembled at Collmar’s hut, -or rather shed, formed of boards fastened together, supported by poles, -and containing three roughly-hewn bedsteads, a weaver’s loom, and two -spinning-wheels. It may have been about fifty feet long and twenty wide, -with the floor as nature supplied it. Rifles and saddles lay about; -three pairs of deer hams adorned one corner, and dried pumpkins hanging -to poles, formed the sky to this paradise.</p> - -<p>Immense blazing logs were heaped up in one blackened corner, and from -time to time it was necessary to throw a pail of water over the fire to -prevent the planks from burning; and then clouds of ashes threatened us -with the fate of Herculaneum and Pompeii.</p> - -<p>All sorts of cooking utensils were crowded round the fire—a turkey was -stuck upon a stick to roast by the side of an opossum, dangling on a -string from the roof. Notwithstanding my long abode amongst people who -were passionately fond of this article of food, I could never bring -myself to eat a thing with a rat’s head and tail, and hand-like claws. -The prospect of a good<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_265" id="page_265"></a>{265}</span> supper was a delight to my hungry stomach. -Meantime, I was much diverted by a bargain about cows going on between -two old backwoodsmen: but, before discussing this subject, it will be as -well to say something of the other inmates of the shed. Collmar’s wife, -a stout, strong-built woman of about thirty-four, with two daughters of -fourteen and ten, were all that belonged to the fair sex. They were -busily employed about the fire with long-handled spoons, turning the -meat in the frying-pans, and basting the turkey and opossum; five -smaller figures, with a tin pot of milk in one hand and a lump of maize -bread in the other, huddled near the fire, stared at the strangers with -all their eyes. The hostess soon made room for the company by sending -the children to bed. But to return to the bargainers about the cows. -Instead of each praising his own cow, they found so much fault with -them, that their own calves, if they had heard it, must have felt -ashamed of them. After above an hour’s discussion on the faults and -failings of their horned property, they observed that they could not -part with them without giving something into the bargain, as even their -hides were worth nothing. These calumnies were put an end to by the -announcement, “Supper is ready.” Boxes, chairs, and logs were placed -round the table for seats. Turkey, venison, pork, opossum, maize bread, -and the favorite beverage of the backwoodsman, coffee, disappeared so -rapidly that soon nothing was left but the bones of the animals, the -remembrance of the bread, and the grounds of the coffee. One after -another rose when he had had enough, and then the woman-folk, who had -wisely kept something for themselves,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_266" id="page_266"></a>{266}</span> took their places. This is one of -the customs of the West which always displeased me. The hostess seldom -sits down to table with the men, except now and then at tea or coffee. -The other custom, that of rising when they had had enough, without -regard to those who remained at table, was not so bad.</p> - -<p>After supper the company formed various groups, and the conversation -turned on shooting, pasture grounds, the survey of the land that had -recently been accomplished, and then on religion. Words soon ran high; -for among the company were Methodists, Baptists, Presbyterians, and -unbelievers—but all disputes were put an end to by the arrival of two -large jugs of whiskey, each containing about four bottles, which Collmar -had sent his eldest son, a lad of fifteen, to fetch from a distant -store. The boy had been obliged to ride slowly for fear of breaking the -jugs.</p> - -<p>The old bear-shooters were highly amused at the following account one of -the party gave of a bear-hunt that had occurred in North Carolina, and -which gave a sad picture of the low state to which field sports had -fallen there. “In order to have a bear-hunt several farmers met, and let -loose a tame two-year-old bear, giving him half an hour’s law, and then -following with horse and hound. The bear made straight for some hills, -and in about an hour and a half’s time was chased into a tree. Not -wishing to kill him, no one had brought a rifle; so I went to a house -about half a mile off, and borrowed an axe to cut down the tree. The -bear looked with inquisitive eyes on the proceedings below, and did not -appear to suspect danger, till the tree fell with a tremendous crash; -men and dogs<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_267" id="page_267"></a>{267}</span> threw themselves on the half-stunned bear, to secure him -and take him home; but the majority voted for another hunt, so the dogs -were held in and the bear let loose. After a time, we all went after him -again; this time the chase lasted longer, as the bear swam a river, and -to avoid a wetting we turned off to a bridge, giving the bear a great -advantage. At length, when we got close to him, he took to an enormous -fir-tree, and we all assembled under it; none of us knew how to get him -down again. We were several miles from any house, and had left the axe -behind us, and he seemed to set us at defiance in his lofty position. -Nevertheless he did not seem quite at his ease, and kept looking -anxiously first on one side, and then on the other, at the dogs who were -jumping and barking round the trunk of the tree. This inspired an old -Virginian of the party with a new idea. There were several pine branches -lying about; so, taking up one of the heaviest and longest, he commenced -striking the tree with all his force. At the first blow, the bear gave a -start as if electrified, and at the second or third he darted down like -lightning among the dogs, when he was soon secured and taken home. He -was once more allowed to run about for a couple of years, when he grew -very fat, and in good condition for killing, and he was slaughtered -accordingly.” When the story was ended, we wrapped ourselves in our -blankets, and slept soundly, though occasionally disturbed by some -thirsty souls who rose to get a drink. It was lucky for those who were -lying in the outer rows that most of the water seekers wore moccasins.</p> - -<p>We were up at daybreak, and prepared to build the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_268" id="page_268"></a>{268}</span> house by first making -a large fire to warm our hands and feet. A man with an axe stood in each -corner of the rising house, to cut the mortices and fit them into each -other, while the rest of the party raised the logs; no trifling labor, -as the house was to have two stories. By the evening, it was all up -except the roof, when rain began to fall, and the logs became too -slippery to admit of our standing on them; so the completion was left -till dry weather.</p> - -<p>We remained the night at Collmar’s, and departed next day on our various -ways, after a very frugal breakfast, for we had devoured all his store.</p> - -<p>It was cold and foggy, and I was glad to get to Hogarth’s, where I -passed the night, returning next day to Slowtrap’s. On relating the -extraordinary behavior of the fox; he gave one of his smiles, and told -many droll stories of the tricks of foxes, and one of a wild-cat, which -attacked a man in the marshes of the Cash. The man had gone out early in -the morning to shoot a turkey, and hearing a cock gobbling away with all -his might, he placed himself behind a fallen tree, and began to use his -call, when a wild-cat, probably deceived by the sound, sprang upon him -like a fury, and attempted to bite through the veins of his neck. He -found it impossible to pull the beast off, and was obliged to kill it -behind his back with his scalping-knife; he was confined to his bed for -several weeks, before he recovered from the ugly wounds caused by the -cat’s teeth and claws.</p> - -<p>The weather cleared up next morning, and as old Slowtrap was still -unprepared for his journey, I resolved to cross the river to shoot, and -went to Curly’s on the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_269" id="page_269"></a>{269}</span> same day. As the deer kept themselves close hid -in the daytime, we determined to have a shot in the night. An iron pan -was soon prepared, and with my old German game-bag, which had -accompanied me in all my wanderings, full of kindlers, our rolled-up -blankets on our shoulders, we set off as soon as it was dark. A sharp -wind had made the leaves so dry in the course of a few hours, that our -footsteps might be heard at three hundred yards off; consequently we saw -no deer, and after carrying the pan to and fro for about three hours, we -got tired of such useless trouble. On arriving at a small stream, we -made a good fire, and after a frugal supper had set our chins for a very -short time in motion, we rolled ourselves in our blankets, and lay down -each with his dog pressed close to his side.</p> - -<p>We rose at daybreak, and following different routes, appointed a -rendezvous at Curly’s, as we did not mean to make a long affair of it. -Bad luck seemed to stick to us, for though we found plenty of trails, we -saw no game. At length Bearsgrease found a fresh trail, and followed it -up, often looking round to see if I was near him; so I kept as close as -possible. Suddenly he stood still and pointed, and an old buck got up -about fifty yards from us, and made a half circle round us. When I gave -a hail, he stood still as if to ask what I wanted. It happened that I -was to windward of him; and snuffing the air he gave a bound, which -caused my ball to strike too far backwards under his spine, bringing him -on his haunches. Bearsgrease had been observing it all with remarkable -patience, only turning his head from one to the other;—but now giving -vent to his eagerness he darted on the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_270" id="page_270"></a>{270}</span> deer, seized him by the jaw, and -springing over his back, brought him to the ground. I had now a good -opportunity of cutting the deer’s throat, but wished to give the dog a -little practice, and I watched the struggle with the greatest interest. -The buck was one of twelve branches, and had the full use of the -forepart of his body. He strove to hit the dog with his sharp hoof, and -to run his horns into him; but the dog cleverly eluded all his attempts, -and at last seizing him by the throat, held him fast, while I ended his -torments with my knife.</p> - -<p>As Slowtrap had assured me that he would be ready to make the -long-expected journey in a few days, I would not delay. I skinned the -deer, packed the two haunches in the skin, fed the dog, and trudged away -heavily laden up and down hill to Curly’s house.</p> - -<p>Slowtrap was not ready. It was quite out of his character to be hurried. -I saw no end of his awful procrastination; yet there was nothing left -for it but patience. On my arrival, he was busy making a sledge to draw -wood, that his wife might have enough for several weeks; this was no -trifle, considering what enormous logs were consumed in these -fireplaces.</p> - -<p>The next day was a washing-day—and a washing-day in most places, and in -Arkansas in particular, is an awful thing to a man whether married or -not. Curly’s young wife and sister had volunteered to assist, and to me -was deputed the honor of escorting them; I buckled a blanket on the -horse, and rode over, but as all three could not find room at once, I -had to make two trips. All the American women are good riders. Curly’s -wife jumped up lightly behind me, and held on<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_271" id="page_271"></a>{271}</span> by my belt. Away we went -at a gallop through the foaming though shallow river and thick forest, -to Slowtrap’s house, where having safely deposited my charge, I hastened -back for the sister. I had now to think of my own safety, as it would -have been foolhardiness to have remained near three women on a -washing-day. Being tired from yesterday’s exertions, to take a long -walk, I decided on shooting wild-fowl; so seizing S.’s long rifle with a -hundred balls to the pound, I sauntered down to Porter’s Creek. The -number of ducks was astounding. I lay down in a quiet shady place, and -only fired when a good opportunity offered, Bearsgrease securing the -prize. To be sure he frightened the others away, but only for a time; -they soon returned, and by the evening I had bagged thirteen.</p> - -<p>The two next days were wet and disagreeable. All we could do was to cut -and stack wood. When the sun again shone through the clouds on the moist -smoking ground, it was the 12th of December, and I went again over to -Curly’s to shoot another deer before the journey, if possible. Old -Collmar was there and a young man of the name of Martin, who was rather -eccentric; he was about twenty-five, and had not a single hair on his -head. He used to tell extraordinary stories as to the cause of his -baldness, in which he frequently got confused, when he would start up, -rush out of the house, and never show himself again the whole day. -Sometimes when he was engaged to work, he would steal away, leaving his -wages, and sometimes his clothes. We gained from him, that he had -married a wooden-legged woman in Illinois, and had left her there; but -he told it in such a way that<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_272" id="page_272"></a>{272}</span> we doubted its truth. He told the most -absurd stories of what he had seen and experienced, and flew into the -most violent passions if the least doubt was manifested. Thus passed the -afternoon. When it was dark C. and I took our firepan to try our luck -once more. We went southwards towards the hills, in the first instance, -and then turned to the westward, the stars shining brightly; but -gradually thick clouds began to appear, and some flashes of lightning -were visible. We continued walking in the same direction without seeing -any deer, and may have gone on about three quarters of an hour when we -came to a clearing. Looking upwards to find our way by the stars, we -saw, to our horror, that the whole sky was one mass of black clouds. I -had now left my compass at home, the wind blew in violent gusts, and -thunder in the distance kindly gave us notice that a storm was -approaching.</p> - -<p>Nothing is easier than to lose one’s way in the forest by torchlight; -for the fire lights up only a few paces around, giving a peculiar -appearance to the trees, and all beyond thirty yards is the blackest -darkness, and all points of the compass look alike. I now recollected -that when I last carried the pan (for we took it in turns), I had -observed it was lightning under the north star, which was not then -covered by clouds, and we concluded that the storm must have advanced -towards the east. A heavy clap of thunder informed us that we had no -time to lose; so we beat our retreat, keeping the lightning on the left -hand. We may have been about two miles from Curly’s house; the lightning -came quicker and brighter, the thunder louder, and we fled like two -ghosts with our waving flame, when by<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_273" id="page_273"></a>{273}</span> one of the flashes Curly -distinguished the roof of his abode; we hastened to it as fast as our -legs would carry us, dashed in, and fastened the door, just as the hail -came down as if it was trying to split every plank on the roof. As we -looked at each other we broke into such an immoderate fit of laughter, -that we could scarcely recover ourselves. The noise of our arrival, the -thunder, hail, and our loud laugh awoke all the inmates. Martin’s -handkerchief, which he wore at night to cover his pate, had slipped off, -and his queer appearance, as he looked at us with astonishment, set us -off laughing again.</p> - -<p>Meantime the hail gave place to heavy rain; but “savage tyrants reign -not long,” and presently the beauteous stars looked down quite cheerily -upon us.</p> - -<p>Storms are frequent in Arkansas, and occasionally hurricanes, which will -sweep a district of a mile in width and several miles in length, -levelling every thing in their path. After a time blackberries, thorns, -and creepers, grow so luxuriantly over the heaps of fallen trees, as to -make the thickets quite impenetrable in many places, offering a secure -refuge to bears, &c.</p> - -<p>On returning to Slowtrap’s, we began in earnest to make preparations for -the long-expected, long-delayed journey. In S.’s good steel mill we -ground flour enough to last the family till his return, put our knives -and rifles in order, and finally started on the morning of the 19th of -December.</p> - -<p>It was a bright cold winter’s day, when, with our three dogs bounding -about us, we commenced our march; Slowtrap on his nag, which carried, -besides, a sack of provisions, our blankets, and my skins, while<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_274" id="page_274"></a>{274}</span> I -stepped out briskly in a hunting-shirt, leggings, and moccasins, an -untanned raccoon-skin-cap, and with no pack to carry. S. as he sat on -his horse looked as if he must weigh at least twenty stone, his wife had -heaped so many clothes on him, while my accoutrements were all of summer -stuff; but the exercise prevented me from feeling cold, as we jogged -along a small cart-track through the thick forest.</p> - -<p>The first part of our journey led through marshes, but we soon reached -the hills that divide the “petit Jean” from the “Fourche le Fave,” and -with them, dry land. The people of Yell county had selected a spot near -the “petit Jean” for a new county seat for the sessions. The infant town -consisted of exactly the same number of buildings as Perryville, viz. -two houses and a stable. When a town is founded in America, the streets -are first marked off, by cutting away a piece of bark from the trees, -and boards are nailed up at the corners with the names, such as, -Main-street, Second-street, Walnut-street, Elm-street, &c., and -sometimes, when in the forest, a man may find that he is in the high -street of a town.</p> - -<p>If the position of the new-born, newly-christened town be a good one, it -grows incredibly fast; in the contrary case, it looks desolate -enough—merchants and travellers desert it, houses are left unfinished -and fall to pieces, and the court-house, as I once saw near White River, -may be turned into a corn-crib.</p> - -<p>In Danville, as the town was called, a speculative genius had -established a small store, having removed from the Arkansas, about -twenty miles off, with a cask of whiskey, and for whiskey or money he -bought all<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_275" id="page_275"></a>{275}</span> skins he could find. He had also powder, lead, coffee, -sugar, and lucifer matches; the latter article are wretchedly made in -America. I exchanged all my skins for powder, lead, and coffee.</p> - -<p>From hence, somewhat lightened, we proceeded to Spring Creek, which is -thickly settled, one good farm bordering another, till we passed the -water-mill, where they ceased, and we prepared for the night, which -looked threatening. We halted by an overthrown pine-tree, unloaded the -horse, and gave him some corn, collected firewood, and made a hut. Pine -bark lay about in heaps; though worm-eaten in many places, it answered -for want of better, and, used in double and treble layers, it made a -very respectable sort of shed. When I thought it was finished, being -rather tired, I flung myself on the ground; but my companion was not so -easily satisfied; he laid on one piece of bark after another, and spread -some to keep our limbs from the damp earth, and, whether I wished it or -not, I must up and help till he pronounced “That’ll do.” Our simple -supper was soon over; he then pulled off his shabby old coat, folded it -up carefully, and laid it on his saddle as an extra pillow, spread his -blanket on the pine bark with the edge to the fire, so that in lying on -it, and covering himself with the other half, he might admit the warmth. -After adding a few more logs to the fire, he pulled off his shoes, -placing them near him with the soles upwards, that they might not fill -with water in case of rain; he hung his socks under the bark roof, to -keep them properly warm and dry; then laying himself carefully on his -blanket, and covering himself with the other half, he was soon asleep.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_276" id="page_276"></a>{276}</span></p> - -<p>I could not sleep, but lay close to the fire, which I kept stirring with -a stick, making it crackle, and raising showers of sparks, which were -carried by the wind far away into the dark forest, while I gave audience -to my various thoughts. At length some pattering drops warned me that it -was time to seek shelter in the warm shed.</p> - -<p>The rising sun found us again on the march, and nothing remarkable -occurred till evening, when we passed an old plum orchard of the -Cherokees. It was an unenclosed space, several miles in circumference, -thickly covered with bushes from two to six feet high, bearing small, -round, very sweet plums, which ripen in August. Similar plum orchards -are found in many places near the Arkansas and Mississippi.</p> - -<p>We struck the Arkansas before dark, opposite the little town of -Pittsburg, and crossed over. As our purses were in a weak condition, we -did not enter the town, but lighted a fire on the river’s bank, made a -shed of some planks which had been driven on shore, probably from a -sunken boat, and were soon well housed. As we had marched quick, and -kept in our dogs for fear of losing them, we had seen no game; our -provisions were rather low, and henceforth the horse had no further -weight to carry than the well-packed, goodly person of my companion, who -now and then got off to give me a lift. We husbanded our stores so well, -that we had something for supper and breakfast, and to feed the dogs, -and laid ourselves comfortably down in our blankets.</p> - -<p>Next day we passed along a part of the route by which some years ago a -numerous body of eastern<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_277" id="page_277"></a>{277}</span> Indians, having given up their lands to the -United States on condition of receiving other equally good lands in the -West, were conducted by the parties who had engaged to provide for them -on their journey. Numerous square holes cut in the fallen trees showed -where the squaws had pounded their maize to make bread. More melancholy -traces were visible in the bones of human beings and animals which were -strewed about. Many a warrior and squaw died on the road from -exhaustion, and the maladies engendered by their treatment; and their -relations and friends could do nothing more for them than fold them in -their blankets, and cover them with boughs and bushes, to keep off the -vultures, which followed their route by thousands, and soared over their -heads; for their drivers would not give them time to dig a grave and -bury their dead. The wolves, which also followed at no great distance, -soon tore away so frail a covering, and scattered the bones in all -directions. This is a sad instance of the abominable haggling spirit so -prevalent in America. The government, to avoid trouble, had contracted -with individuals for a certain sum, which was quite sufficient to have -conveyed the poor Indians comfortably; but they were obliged to part -with all they had for bread, selling their rifles and tomahawks, horses -going for two and three dollars; and, while they died of hunger and -distress, the contractors made a fortune.</p> - -<p>About three in the afternoon we reached the Ozark mountains, and passed -close by some farm buildings where there were several tame white -turkeys. My dog, who was a capital fellow for turkeys, had as yet never -seen any but wild, consequently black ones. He<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_278" id="page_278"></a>{278}</span> gave a side glance or -two at them, and then passed on without further notice, until one -crossed the road, and he came on the fresh trail, which he followed on -the instant; but when he got close to the white bird, he kept first -looking at the one, and then smelling at the other, as much as to say, -“They don’t agree,” while the turkey walked off with long strides, -turning his head from side to side to examine the stranger who was so -close at his heels, and whose intentions he rather seemed to doubt. I -called off the dog, and we stepped out at a good pace up a narrow ravine -by the banks of a mountain stream. Narrow as the ravine was, we found -houses in places where no one, at least no reasonable being, could ever -have supposed they would have been erected, there being so little arable -land near. One place particularly amused me—a turnip field, about sixty -paces square, from one corner of which I saw smoke rising. As there was -no trace of a building or of a human being to be seen, I was anxious to -discover where the smoke came from, and on reaching the corner of the -field, I found myself looking straight down a chimney. The house was -built in a little hollow in the rock, probably to avoid encroaching on -any part of the useful ground. But what could induce people to settle in -such a hole, when so much good land was to be had in Arkansas, was more -than I could divine.</p> - -<p>We now turned to the left, and crossed the first spur towards the summit -of the hills that divide the Mulberry from the Arkansas. The ascent was -rather steep, but we surmounted it without mishap, and were rewarded -with a beautiful view over the country we had passed. While I was seated -on a high piece of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_279" id="page_279"></a>{279}</span> rock, contemplating the prospect, Slowtrap rolled a -large stone to the edge of the declivity; then pushing it over, he set -the dogs after it—these hearing the noise, flew in wild haste down the -steep. The stone at first moved slowly, but as it gathered way in its -descent, it made bounds of twenty and thirty feet, broke off young -trees, and went thundering to the bottom in clouds of dust, the dogs -still in chase. I did not much like it, fearing they might break their -legs or necks. Bearsgrease came back first, crouching and wagging his -tail, as if he knew that he had committed an egregious folly. The others -returned later, puffing and snorting. S. seemed to have been much -amused: he sat comfortably on a rock, with his bridle on his left arm, -and looked on without moving a muscle of his countenance.</p> - -<p>We had a long march before us. It was ten miles to the nearest house, -and we had nothing eatable left, either for ourselves or the horse; it -was moreover getting dark. S. said we must keep on the hill for six or -seven miles, and then turn down towards the Mulberry to the house.</p> - -<p>It grew darker and darker. A narrow unfrequented footpath covered with -yellow leaves was our only guide, which I followed up with undivided -attention, Slowtrap riding slowly after me. A thin penetrating rain set -in with the night; yet, indefatigably, and with my nose nearly on the -ground, I kept to the almost invisible path, till about ten o’clock, -when I stopped, and told Slowtrap that either the path ended here, or I -had missed it; which of the two was the case I could not say. Slowtrap, -who had followed patiently without<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_280" id="page_280"></a>{280}</span> speaking a word, asked if I thought -I could find the trail again on retracing my steps. The weather was not -favorable for conversation; I shouldered my rifle, went some way back, -made a circle, and found a strip of darker ground amongst the leaves. I -called out, and my companion came, leading his horse, and said that I -might ride, and he would follow up the path, as his eyes were more -accustomed to forest work than mine. Tired with the long day’s march, I -was not sorry for this, and was soon in the saddle, while Slowtrap, -stooping low, preceded me about two hundred paces; but he came to a -stand where I had stopped, and said the path ended there. We could not -be far from the descent to the Mulberry, for the trees were thinner, and -Slowtrap said that if it were not so dark, we might be able to see the -whole of its valley. At present nothing was to be seen but our miserable -plight.</p> - -<p>It is dangerous to lose one’s way in these hills, as precipices occur -where least suspected. The rain now fell in torrents, and we were as wet -as drowned rats. At length we decided on descending the hill straight -before us, lead where it would. It was steep and slippery, and although -we led the horse, we were often in danger of falling into one of the -steep ravines; we passed so near one that we heard the stones fall to -the bottom as they were kicked away by the horse’s feet.</p> - -<p>It may have been about eleven o’clock when the dogs gave the first signs -of life, by a growl and a low bark. Then the oldest of them, a good old -fellow, covered with honorable scars, gave a short howl. It was answered -by several dogs in the distance; this inspired us with<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_281" id="page_281"></a>{281}</span> fresh courage, -and we hastened down the hill towards the sound. When the strange dogs -left off barking, we easily excited them again by imitating the howl of -a wolf. We gained at once the foot of the hill and a mountain stream, -and came to a small house, from whence we had heard the bark of the -dogs. We entered and obtained shelter, but no hearty welcome.</p> - -<p>Next morning, as we were not very well pleased with our host, who did -not care about us, and fearing that the rivers we had to cross might -swell with rain—an event which soon occurs in the mountains—we left at -daylight, and proceeded to a farmer’s, named Davis, about half a mile -off on the other side of the river; here we were received kindly and -hospitably.</p> - -<p>Mr. Davis would by no means allow us to proceed, as it had poured with -rain the whole night, and all the brooks were rushing torrents; so, -taking charge of our things, he made us sit by the fire, and seemed -highly gratified at the pleasure its warmth afforded us. His family were -very agreeable, and I was quite sorry to part with them so soon as the -next morning; but by that time the waters fell, and Slowtrap was in a -hurry to get on. However, it was hard work to get through some of the -rivers, especially as we had but one horse. Luckily my companion knew -the country too well to expose us to the chance of sleeping again in the -forest, and this evening, wet, tired, and half frozen, we arrived at the -abode of an old squatter.</p> - -<p>This day we had crossed the main range of the “Boston divide,” which -parts the waters of the Mulberry from the White river, and found -ourselves on the latter, which, here, we could leap across, though<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_282" id="page_282"></a>{282}</span> -further down it is navigated by steamers. The country and vegetation -differed considerably from that south of the Arkansas. There was no -trace of fir; the mountains were covered with oak, beech, and hickory, -all at this season without leaves, which, to an eye accustomed to green -hollows, seemed rather mournful and monotonous. It struck me as -extraordinary that the best and most fertile land was on the hill tops, -where, in other places it is generally the worst; here grew black -walnut, wild cherry, with stems sometimes twenty inches in diameter, -black locust, and sugar maple, trees which generally grow only in the -richest soils. The black locust was very frequent, and its long sharp -thorns are by no means pleasant on a journey.</p> - -<p>About noon we passed a log house, at the door of which stood a fat -red-haired man. When we had passed, Slowtrap told me that, four years -ago, that man had bought a clock; and after he had had it two days, he -doubted whether all was right inside; so he took it to pieces, and when -satisfied, put it together again, and people said that when he had done -so, he had wheels enough left for another clock.</p> - -<p>It was Christmas eve, and growing dark. My heart sunk as I remembered -former joys of this season, and thought of my present loneliness. -Strange! that recollections should be so sweet and yet so bitter.</p> - -<p>In good time we arrived at old Conwell’s, Slowtrap’s father-in-law. He -lived in a block-house, surrounded by mountains covered with trees, -close to the bank of the White river, which was narrow enough to be -bridged by a tree. The family were assembled round the fire; Conwell -himself was absent. A matron of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_283" id="page_283"></a>{283}</span> pleasing appearance rose from her seat -on the entrance of her son-in-law, and cordially shook his hand, while -two fine boys of eleven and eight jumped up to welcome him; another -person in the room, a young graceful girl, who at first kept modestly in -the background, then came forward to greet her brother-in-law, who -addressed her as Sophy; neither was the stranger overlooked, but -received a hearty welcome from all. I, who, a few minutes before, had -felt so deserted and miserable, now experienced a silent joy, as I -looked on the amiable, honorable countenance of the mother, the mild -expression of the daughter, and the open, happy faces of the two boys. -It was as if I had found new relations, and was once again at home. -Never in my life had I felt, from the first moment, so completely -domesticated as with these people.</p> - -<p>In about half an hour old Conwell came in: if ever uprightness was -stamped upon any countenance, it was upon his; his hair was white as -snow, but his step was as springy as he moved about in his -hunting-shirt, leggins, moccasins, and bare neck, as if he had seen but -twenty years. After we had been seated about an hour, it seemed as if I -had known him from childhood, and the evening flew past with incredible -swiftness.</p> - -<p>The cold was very sharp on Christmas-day, and we were delighting in a -glorious fire, when John, the youngest boy, ran in, and said there was a -large gang of turkeys in the corn. I seized my rifle, called -Bearsgrease, and was soon in the field. No sooner had the dog found the -scent, than he was amongst them, and they flew to the neighboring trees. -I knocked over<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_284" id="page_284"></a>{284}</span> one, loaded, and tried for another, leaving Bearsgrease -to watch the prize, as several pigs were near us. Not being able to get -another shot, I returned to the dog, and found him with his paws full of -business. Another larger dog had come to have a smell at the turkey; -Bearsgrease, mistaking his intentions and my instructions, attacked the -stranger, threw him over, and held him fast, with the fiercest -countenance in the world; but when he saw me coming he began to wag his -tail, being thus, like Janus, severe in front and amicable behind. I -released the stranger from his disagreeable position, and patted and -soothed Bearsgrease to express my approbation and satisfaction at his -good behavior; but he continued to give an occasional growl and scowl at -the other dog.</p> - -<p>I amused myself for a couple of days with turkey shooting, leaving -Slowtrap time to arrange his affairs, when he informed me that he had -concluded his business quicker than he had expected, and now meant to -return home. This was disagreeable to me for two reasons—first, because -he was a very pleasant companion; and, secondly, because he was so well -acquainted with the mountains. However, there was no persuading him to -remain, and he fixed on the following morning for his departure.</p> - -<p>In the afternoon, as the sun was bright and warm, we formed a merry -party in front of the house; but S. who never could bear lying or -sitting on the cold ground, sat himself on the fence, which was about -five feet high, and told us some of his humorous stories with his usual -gravity. Meantime several cows had assembled on the other side of the -fence. It has<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_285" id="page_285"></a>{285}</span> already been said that S. wore a shabby old coat, whereof -the tails hung low outside the fence. In the morning he had been walking -about the hills, and had been very hot; and his pocket-handkerchief, -moist with perspiration, was in one of his pockets. It is well known -that cows are fond of salt and saline substances, and they had probably -divined that something of the sort was in one of those pockets. One, -rather bolder than the rest, had quietly approached, taken the flap in -her mouth, and was contentedly chewing it. I had observed the whole -proceeding with great amusement; but fearing that his coat was in danger -of being reduced to a state of pulp, I called out to him to look behind. -He looked round, beheld the cow chewing his coat-tails with the greatest -placidity, and raised one of his long arms to drive her away. The cow, -frightened at the long arm, made a retreat; but unluckily one of the -buttons caught between her teeth, and she gave a sudden wrench to poor -Slowtrap, who was nicely balanced at the top of the fence; in a moment -his legs rose in the air, like the two chimneys of a steamer, and then -his body tumbled to the ground. What happened afterwards, no one could -tell, as we all followed his example, in a convulsion of laughter.</p> - -<p>On the 28th December my old companion mounted his steed, and shaking -hands with his relations and me, was soon out of sight in the forest. I -prepared for the mountains, and Conwell said he would willingly go with -me, but that he had business for some days; I answered, that I would go -first, not to be a burden to him, at which he was much vexed, and -requested me<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_286" id="page_286"></a>{286}</span> not to go without him, concluding his kind invitation to -remain in his house, by saying that I was “as welcome as the flowers in -May.” I could not withstand this, and remained with much pleasure. He -rode away the same day, and returned on the following evening. In the -afternoon it came on to snow, and continued till late at night, so that -we expected glorious weather for shooting; but our joy did not last -long, for it soon became warm again. Nevertheless we got every thing in -readiness, mended moccasins, cast balls, sharpened knives, and, on the -30th, we proceeded to the Pilot rock, at the source of the Hurricane. -After crossing the Boston divide, we stopped on the slope, where we -found a spring of delicious water, and “struck camp.” The night was -clear and cold, but the heat of the day had spoiled all the beautiful -snow. Stretched before the fire, we rested our weary limbs after the -exertions of the day, and were soon sound asleep, with our dogs beside -us.</p> - -<p>As we were not yet on our intended ground, we rose early, descended the -mountain, crossed the Hurricane, and fixed upon a spot for our night’s -camp, where we left Conwell’s horse, with our blankets, and provisions. -Here we separated to mount the hill on different routes. The Hurricane -is a mountain stream, taking its name from a hurricane which raged near -its mouth some time ago, leaving traces that are still visible. It runs -into the Mulberry, and flows with it into the Arkansas.</p> - -<p>Conwell went to the left, I to the right; the hill was in places so -steep, that I was obliged to lift the dog up before me. At length I -gained a flat terrace.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_287" id="page_287"></a>{287}</span> The terrace formation is characteristic of these -mountains; seen from below they do not appear very high, because only -the top of the next division is visible; but when one is surmounted, -another and another arises, and people maintain that when you come to -the highest there is always one more.</p> - -<p>The terrace on which I found myself was about one hundred and eighty -paces wide. Advancing cautiously towards the middle, keeping a sharp -look-out, I perceived a doe quietly grazing, and coming towards me. I -whistled, she stopped, bounded upwards with the shot, ran about fifty -paces towards me, and fell dead. She was in excellent condition—I hung -her up, and went on. At the end of the terrace, where a spring dashed -down the rock, I observed signs of a bear; he had turned over several -stones to find worms, and had bitten off some of the bushes to make a -bed; seeing nothing more, I returned to the camp, to have the help of my -companion to follow up the trail next day, taking half the doe on my -shoulders as I went along. I found Conwell occupied with a very fat -turkey.</p> - -<p>Tired with all the climbing, we wrapped ourselves in our blankets, and -threw ourselves down for a nap; but the sun setting, and wind getting -colder and sharper, did not allow us much repose, but warned us to make -a fire, and a good fire too, for the night. Wood was abundant, and we -had only to move a few steps for as much as we wanted. The sun had -hardly disappeared behind the trees on the western mountains, when it -became dark in our ravine; the twilight did not last more than ten -minutes. It was the last day of the year. In my native land, many a -happy<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_288" id="page_288"></a>{288}</span> pair were forgetting past pains and sorrows in the tumult of the -dance in lighted halls; while I was stretched under the starry skies -beside a crackling fire in the forest, my trusty rifle and faithful dog -by my side. I had no mind for dancing or music; for seven months I had -not heard from home, and seemed to have got wedged in among the -mountains, with the world closed behind me, all retreat cut off, and -nothing left but to advance: and yet the future offered no inviting -picture; alone, in the endless wilderness, I stood, with hair turning -gray—a solitary hunter, leaning on my rifle, separated from all I -loved.</p> - -<p>Old Hawkeye, must have had many a sorrowful hour.</p> - -<p>Meantime, my companion, leaning on his elbow, was gazing on the fire, -and lost in recollections of the past; but his past must have been a -happy one, for he often smiled to himself. He had lived an active life, -and looked forward to a happy old age, in the circle of an amiable -family, in the vicinity of his married children, in the enjoyment of -health and strength. Wherefore should he be unhappy?</p> - -<p>I stood up to change the current of my thoughts, poked at the fire, laid -the logs together, which were burnt through the middle, and reposed -again on my blanket. Conwell told me he was sixty-two years old to-day, -31st of December, 1841; and yet he was so strong and active that I had -to exert myself to keep up with him. He spoke of his past life; how he -had continually preceded civilization, first in Carolina, then in -Kentucky, Tennessee, Missouri, and now in the Ozark mountains, and he -complained that people were gathering<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_289" id="page_289"></a>{289}</span> too thick about him, and said he -felt a strong inclination to make another move. He mentioned how -fortunate and happy he was in his family. He spoke of his children, and -as I listened to him my troubled thoughts were soothed; it was as if one -of my own family was speaking. Thus passed our evening till sleep -weighed down our eyelids, and wrapped in our blankets past and future -were forgotten.</p> - -<p>Next morning, as the tips of the western mountains were lighted up with -the first rays of the rising sun, we woke from our lairs, shook off the -wreaths of frost, and joyfully inhaled the fresh morning air; it was -bitter cold, the water in our tin cups was all frozen, as was the meat, -but a breakfast fit for a prince was soon smoking before us—juicy -venison, fat turkey, good strong coffee, and maize bread. Where was the -hotel that could afford fare as good? but man is fated never to be -satisfied—my companion sighed for bear.</p> - -<p>Before breakfast was quite ready I went to the creek which flowed at a -few paces from our camp, to have a good wash, and finding a hole with -deep water as clear as crystal, I threw off my clothes, and plunged -under the cool element. It was a delicious treat, and I did not feel the -cold till I got out; but I was soon by the fire, and by the time I had -my clothes on I felt such an animating glow, and such strength that I -could almost have torn an oak up by the roots. Old C. looked on smiling, -but thought it too cold to plunge in, and contented himself with washing -face, breast, hands, and feet. Thus refreshed, we sat down to breakfast; -turkey, venison, coffee, and bread disappeared with terrific rapidity; -even Bearsgrease appeared surprised<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_290" id="page_290"></a>{290}</span> sitting with his mouth wide open, -though Conwell maintained that he held it open more conveniently to -catch the morsels I threw to him from time to time; perhaps he was -right.</p> - -<p>After these trifles, half a turkey, and the greater part of a haunch of -venison had been safely disposed of to the general satisfaction, we set -off to look for the bear, tokens of whose whereabout I had seen the day -before. On arriving at the place, the dogs showed signs of excitement, -and running down the steep they soon began to give tongue. We followed -as fast as we could, and came to a large detached rock, behind which a -cave ran into the mountain. Several marks showed that the bear was at -home; the dogs barked furiously, and I laid aside my rifle and pouch, -and was about to enter the cave with my drawn knife, when Bruin began to -suspect mischief. He was right opposite the entrance, but a slight bend -in the cave, which was only eight feet deep, prevented our seeing him. -He would not have cared much for the dogs, but as I approached the wind -was behind me; the moment he discovered me he began snorting and -growling, and made a rush which nearly upset me, although I sprang on -one side. Conwell, who had seen many such affairs, coolly stood at the -entrance with his rifle cocked, watching my proceedings. The report of -the rifle was heard before I and the dogs had recovered our composure -after the rush; the bear seemed to be determined that nothing should -stop him, and disappeared in a gorge; but the dogs, roused by the shot -were soon on his traces. The old man laughed heartily as he saw me -standing knife in hand quite disconcerted at the mouth of the cave,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_291" id="page_291"></a>{291}</span> and -regretted that he had not been able to give all his attention to my -admirable jump, as he was obliged to look after the beast.</p> - -<p>We followed the dogs, and on examining a rock which the bear had -crossed, we found drops of dark blood, and were tolerably sure of him. -Weakened with loss of blood, he had not run far before the dogs came up -with him. As they were both young and untrained to bears, he had not -much trouble in keeping them off, but they answered our purpose in -stopping him. I came up just as he had shaken off the dogs, and was -climbing a steep bluff. I fired and struck his right paw, and as he fell -the dogs seized him again; my companion now arrived, and coolly taking -aim, sent a ball through his heart. He was a fat two-year-old, and -promised a delicate repast; we decided on taking him home. So while C. -skinned and cut him up, I returned to the camp to fetch the horse with -our blankets and game, and as I rode past I brought away the other half -of the doe, which was too good to leave behind. As the day was now far -advanced, and the horse had about 200 lbs. to carry, we resolved to camp -for the night near the first spring we came to.</p> - -<p>As we crossed a flat on the top of a mountain we heard a horrible noise -from a large gang of turkeys, a sure sign of bad weather. Conwell sprang -from his horse, and we ran towards the sound. When near enough I cheered -on the dog, and in an instant the whole forest was alive with turkeys. A -great big fellow flapped into a tree about sixty yards in front of me, -and fell to the ground with a ball from my rifle. While loading, I -observed Conwell going about with<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_292" id="page_292"></a>{292}</span> his rifle at his cheek, carefully -watching all the long necks; then he stopped, took aim, and fired. But -the turkey only reeled on the bough, and recovered himself. As soon as I -was loaded I knocked over a second, and by this time the greater part of -the gang had made off; but the one Conwell had hit sat still, badly -wounded, with the blood dropping fast. Conwell had now loaded again, and -shot him through the head. On my asking why he had not selected another, -as he was sure of this one, he answered, that this was the fattest and -heaviest of the whole gang; and he was right. Mine were both large -birds, but his weighed more by three pounds. He laughed, and said he had -not looked out for the best in vain, and told me, “when the turkeys are -all sitting on the trees, frightened at the dogs, there is no occasion -to be in a hurry to shoot the first that comes—a good sportsman should -choose the best, which is easily done; a short thick neck is the -infallible sign. The leaner the turkey, the longer and thinner his neck. -The bird seems larger, but take care to shoot the thick-necks, and I’ll -wager that they ain’t so bad to eat.” Long experience has since taught -me that he was right, but it required some time before I was cool enough -to look at the turkeys on their perch, and make a choice amongst them. -We opened them on the spot; for it is extraordinary how soon they spoil, -even in cold weather, if this is not done. We threw two of them over the -horse, while I shouldered the third; and in a very short time we came to -a spring of good water, and made a camp for the night.</p> - -<p>One of the results of our camping out, with supper and breakfast, was -the disappearance of one of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_293" id="page_293"></a>{293}</span> turkeys and half the bear’s ribs. With -strength well recruited we set off for the dwelling of my old friend, -and reached it about two in the afternoon. It was dark by the time when -the skins were stretched and the meat salted, when we sat round the fire -and talked over old times.</p> - -<p>We were tired and went betimes to bed, intending to sally forth early -next morning; but the rain poured down the whole night, and we had -forgotten to take our blankets in from the fence, so that, it may be -supposed, they were rather damp; however, we were not vexed. We had -plenty of provisions; a little repose would not hurt us, especially as -we were looking forward to fresh adventures.</p> - -<p>We made ourselves comfortable, provided wood, and had placed ourselves -in a half circle round the fire, when little John ran in and told us -that he was just come from a neighbor’s, who had sent out his negro to -count the little pigs, which a sow was bringing with her out of the -forest. After a little while he came in, and said gravely, that he had -counted nineteen, but that one had run about so, that he could not count -him. Conwell now commenced a story of his early days, in the following -words:—“About forty years ago my parents moved into the Cumberland -mountains; and as the land was good and fertile, and game plentiful, a -little settlement was soon made. We were very comfortable, grew as much -Indian corn as we wanted, had plenty of venison, bear, and wild honey, -and we could always procure powder, coffee, and whatever else we wanted -in exchange for our bears’ fat, skins, &c.; so that every one would have -allowed that we could not<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_294" id="page_294"></a>{294}</span> be better off, but for one circumstance that -embittered our existence and exposed us to numberless dangers. There was -a tribe of Tuskarora Indians in our vicinity, who had been driven out of -the north, probably by the French, and who plundered and murdered -whenever they found an opportunity. Amongst other things, they had -stolen a number of horses, and that so cunningly, that for a long time -they eluded all our efforts to trace them. The mountains ended in a -bluff several miles long, and from twenty to thirty feet high, so steep -that no bear, let alone a horse, could have descended it. As soon as a -horse was missed, those who went to seek him examined each end of the -cliff, without ever finding any traces of the animal. I was then about -twenty-two years old, and one day I was out with my dog,—and such a dog -I have never seen since. Old Beef here is a good fellow, but that one -had a cross of a bull in him; well, we came on the trail of a fat -bear—for fat he was—of that I had infallible signs; in the first -place, because he had crossed a sandy bed of a small stream where his -footsteps were deeply impressed, showing the balls round and full; -secondly, I found that he had not eaten the acorns with their cups, but -had taken the trouble to separate them. I fancied he could not be far -off, and followed up the trail, which led towards the bluff; at about -two hundred yards from it, he had entered the stony bed of a brook. I -kept close up with the dog, making as little noise as possible, and only -taking my eye off the trail when a turn or higher ground gave me a -chance of seeing the beast. As I proceeded I was astonished to find -traces of horses leading towards the bluff. Two capital horses had been<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_295" id="page_295"></a>{295}</span> -stolen from us a few nights before, and we had looked everywhere for -traces of them, without success; of course, no one thought of looking on -the edge of the cliff.</p> - -<p>“My previous astonishment was nothing to what I experienced, when I came -to the place, where, after heavy rain, the brook falls over the cliff, -but which in dry weather does not contain a drop of water, and found, -where the depth might be about twenty feet, two fir-trees, rounded, and -placed standing against the rock, just so far apart that a horse might -slide down them, but could not fall through; that this was the use they -had been put to was evident from the marks of the struggles of the -horses, before they were launched, and from patches of horsehair -sticking to the poles. That the bear had descended by these means was -clear from the marks of his claws in the wood.</p> - -<p>“It would not have done for the dog;—besides the discovery was too -important for delay, and I hastened home to give information. We had not -long to wait to turn it to account. The Indians, who had stolen a couple -of horses a few nights before, returned for some more the same evening. -Luckily, our watchmen gave the alarm in time, and they had hardly made -off with their booty, when we started by a nearer road, as they were -obliged to choose the most stony paths, in order to leave as few traces -as possible, and thus made a long circuit.</p> - -<p>“About nine in the morning we arrived opposite the fir-trees, and hid -ourselves in the trees and behind rocks to await the redskins. About -noon we began to think that they must have discovered our trail, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_296" id="page_296"></a>{296}</span> -would not appear; but we resolved to wait till dark. We were fifteen in -all, and decided not to fire till every man was sure of his mark; and, -with beating hearts, we listened for the slightest sounds. We had almost -given up the hopes of seeing them, when a single warrior appeared, in -his blanket dress, and descended the cliff. He was sent to reconnoitre, -and had not the slightest suspicion of danger; for he passed close -before my uncle Ben, who, not able to resist the temptation, or fancying -that he was discovered, I know not which, contrary to his usual caution, -fired. The savage leaped high in the air, and fell on his face without a -groan.</p> - -<p>“Now, whether the Indians thought that their spy had shot something, or -whether they thought themselves strong enough to disregard a single man, -whom chance might have brought to the spot, in less than five minutes -the whole troop were on the edge of the bluff, about eighty paces from -our hiding-place. They had with them only the four horses which they had -lately stolen, and as we well knew that it would be vain to seek them if -once their suspicions were roused, we took aim in silence. The party -consisted of nine men, four of them on horseback; we might easily have -killed them all, but were too eager to recover the horses; so it -happened that all aimed at the riders. I had not been in quite such a -hurry, and when the others turned to fly I aimed at one just as he was -entering the thicket; he gave a spring and threw off his blanket; I saw -the blood spurt out, but he was soon out of sight, and as I could not -find his body, I think he must have escaped.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_297" id="page_297"></a>{297}</span></p> - -<p>“We took the arms and dresses of the slain, bound them on the horses, -left the corpses to the wolves and vultures, and entered the settlement -in triumph the same evening. It was long before we saw any thing more of -the Tuskaroras, who withdrew in alarm towards Lake Ontario.”</p> - -<p>By this time dinner was ready, and after dinner we took a siesta; then, -what with reading and conversation, it was evening before we were aware. -I was now asked to give information about the old world, and to tell -them whether kings would take off people’s heads when they chose—and -how houses were built when there was so little wood—and what people did -in the winter. They were much astonished when I mentioned that we did -not grow Indian corn, nor let the cattle run wild; but when I said that -we sometimes planted trees, the children shook their heads, and even the -old ones thought that I was practising on their credulity; they also -wanted to know if kings and queens always wore their crowns, and if they -walked about with their sceptres, and what the nobility looked like.</p> - -<p>Next morning, starting with the rising sun, we took a direction towards -the Richland and War-eagle, two streams which flow into the White river. -We took no provisions with us, but rode out with only the blankets on -the horses, as Conwell supposed we should find plenty of game. On -arriving on our ground, we turned the horses loose, who bent their steps -homewards, grazing as they went. We took different courses, agreeing to -return in the evening to the place where our blankets were hanging up. I -walked cautiously and slowly, but saw nothing of either deer or<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_298" id="page_298"></a>{298}</span> turkey; -once I heard the report of C.’s rifle. When I returned to the camp I -made a good fire, spread my blanket, placed my rifle in readiness, and -laid me down to rest. About sunset I heard a light step; at first I -thought it was a deer—it was Conwell, without game or dog. He sat down -by my side on the blanket, and observing that he supposed I must be very -hungry, he gave a faint smile, and said that he could fast until -tomorrow evening. He might well laugh. He said his dog was after a deer -which he had shot, and, judging from the marks, he must have been hit in -the fleshy part of the haunch; the dog, being young, could not be called -off after once catching the scent, and dog and deer were soon out of -sight.</p> - -<p>While he was talking, Bearsgrease rose up and snuffed the air; Conwell -thought it must be his dog who had found his trail. As I supposed so too -I took no notice, until I thought I heard a short bark, and Bearsgrease, -growling lightly, gave me a significant look. I jumped up with my rifle, -and in a minute a noble buck, with horns laid back, rushed by at full -speed, at about twenty paces from the camp. I sent a ball into him, and -my dog was instantly close on his heels. He did not run far; my ball had -broken the left leg, and passed through the right. After running about -200 paces, he sprang into the Richland, on whose banks we were encamped, -and seemed resolved to sell his life as dearly as possible. The dogs -were upon him, but, as they were forced to swim, while he touched the -bottom, he had not much difficulty in shaking them off again. Conwell -remained lying as if it were no concern of his, so I seized his rifle, -ran to the bank, ended<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_299" id="page_299"></a>{299}</span> the poor animal’s torments with a ball through -his brain, and plunged into the water to pull him out. Now we had meat -in plenty; the skin and haunches were hung up, the ribs roasted, and the -dogs fed before dark.</p> - -<p>We slept well all night, and were up early, but the leaves were so dry -that we found nothing but one turkey, which Conwell knocked over. -However, the sky began to get cloudy, and as we had meat for the -present, our hopes rose. It came on to blow from the north, but we were -protected by a bank of about ten feet high, and though we could not sit -close to it on account of sharp stones, yet it kept off some of the cold -wind, and a glorious fire soon made us forget it.</p> - -<p>Supper was over, and Conwell had taken off one of his moccasins to take -a stone out, when he said that it reminded him of something that had -happened to him a long time ago when he was a child. I was already -covered up in my blanket, but finding that he had a mind to talk, I -roused up, gave the fire a poke that made the sparks fly, and leaning -back, with Bearsgrease for a pillow, who seemed well pleased with the -arrangement, I awaited the commencement of his narrative.</p> - -<p>When I got up, Conwell stopped; but now passing his hand over his face, -he began:—</p> - -<p>“I was between five and six years old when my father made my first pair -of moccasins, for he was a very good shoemaker, and had always made -strong shoes for children, though he himself always wore moccasins; but, -at my earnest, repeated request, he made a pair for<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_300" id="page_300"></a>{300}</span> me, and warned me -particularly not to lose them. On this same day a peddler had been in -the house, and had persuaded my father to buy a pair of large boots, as -very serviceable for bad weather;—and as it had rained a great deal -lately, he put them on, took his rifle, and sallied forth to the forest. -He was hardly gone when I wished to wear my new moccasins; and, to my -horror, found that one was missing. In vain I searched the house from -top to bottom; it was gone, and the other seemed to be there only to -remind me of my loss, and the punishment awaiting me. With a beating -heart I saw my father return earlier than I had expected, out of humor -with the bad weather and bad sport; and he asked roughly, why I was -running about barefoot. With tears in my eyes I told him that I could -not find one of the moccasins, and that I thought the cat must have run -off with it. He said he would <i>cat</i> me, and that if I did not find the -other before night I should suffer for it. With a sorrowful heart I -recommenced my search, and all my brothers helped me. Meantime my father -had sat himself by the fire, and complained that something in his boot -had plagued him the whole day; so, pulling it off, and feeling inside, -what should he find but my much-bemoaned moccasin. It is easier to -imagine my delight than to express it.”</p> - -<p>Conwell rolled himself in his blanket and fell asleep, still smiling at -the recollection. I could not sleep; his story had recalled events of my -own childhood, and I kept gazing at the strange and changing figures in -the fire. Bearsgrease was lying close to me, with his head on my -shoulder; he had raised it several times, and snuffed the air, and again -lain down. At length<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_301" id="page_301"></a>{301}</span> he roused up and gave a slight growl. I thought I -heard something, and looking up to the bank behind me, I was astonished -to find two glowing eyeballs steadily fixed upon me. My head being -between the fire and the animal, I could see them plainly just above the -bank. It must be a panther, and, judging from the position, ready to -spring. My rifle, as usual, lay ready; so, half raising myself, that I -might have the fire in a line with the two sights, I aimed between the -two fiery balls, and the rocks reëchoed the report.</p> - -<p>Old Conwell was up like lightning with his rifle ready, and the dogs -hunted about while I reloaded, but all was as silent as the grave. The -old fellow shook his head, and asked what on earth I had been firing at. -I finished loading without a word, then taking a brand from the fire and -going about twenty paces to a slope in the bank, I mounted, and found an -immense panther, quite dead. I threw him over, and C. dragged him to the -fire; the ball had pierced his brain through the right eye. He was a -very powerful beast, had enormous fangs, and when we cut him open, his -stomach was found quite empty. He must have been attracted to the fire -by hunger, and C. thought he might have smelt the venison; he would -probably have ventured a spring as soon as the fire had burnt low; the -dogs could not scent him, as he was so much above us. After skinning him -we threw the carcass into the river below the camp, as the dogs would -not touch it. We slept the rest of the night undisturbed.</p> - -<p>A light rain fell next morning, which, in about an hour, moistened the -dead leaves sufficiently for us to walk without making a noise; so I -made haste to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_302" id="page_302"></a>{302}</span> stretch the panther’s skin, and we set off, each as -before taking a separate path. Before I had gone half a mile I saw two -deer grazing; just at this moment Conwell’s gun was heard at some -distance, and they both raised their heads and listened attentively, but -perceiving nothing suspicious, they began to feed again. They were a doe -and a year-old fawn, and when they were in a line I fired; the doe, -which was nearest, fell at once, and the fawn after running about fifty -yards. They were very fat, and I hung them up.</p> - -<p>In hanging up deer it is necessary to take precautions against the -vultures, which are a great annoyance to sportsmen. The best way of -securing the deer, whose skin they would ruin with their beaks, is to -hang them up by their heads, so that the vultures may have no point of -support, and must content themselves with pecking at the skull. There is -also a large crow, which tries to steal the fat; but they may be kept -off by placing two peeled sticks crosswise on the deer—for the crows -will not venture their heads between two such suspicious-looking -objects.</p> - -<p>Continuing my march, I came to the bank of a stream running into the -Richland, when I saw a wolf spring out of a thicket on the opposite -side, about eighty paces off; he ran about fifty yards and then stopped, -but not long enough for me to take aim; finally he disappeared among -some rocks. I crossed over to the thicket to see how Bearsgrease would -take the scent of a wolf; all his hairs bristled up the moment he came -to the yet warm lair.</p> - -<p>Late in the afternoon, on my way to the camp, I struck a fresh bear’s -trail, and followed it up, though<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_303" id="page_303"></a>{303}</span> it led me out of my way. Meantime it -began to rain harder, and coming to a broad stream, which the bear had -crossed, my dog lost the trail. As it was too late to return to the -camp, I considered myself lucky in finding a cave, two feet deep in -leaves driven in by the wind. Without making a fire, which would have -been dangerous, I crept in, taking Bearsgrease for a pillow, who was -much pleased thereby, and, spite of wet clothes, I slept well till -morning, covered up with the leaves.</p> - -<p>The morning was cold and wet, my clothes were still damp from -yesterday’s rain, and I was as hungry as a lion; so altogether I did not -feel quite so comfortable as I could wish. But walking quick to warm -myself, in about an hour’s time I reached the place where I had left the -two deer, hung the fawn over my shoulders, and not long after gained the -camp.</p> - -<p>The fire was burning bright which C. had only lately left, and it was no -small quantity of venison that I put down to roast. Having appeased my -appetite, and fed Bearsgrease, I laid down again to rest. After an -hour’s time, as C. did not return, I set off again; it was still very -cold. As I was passing a small ravine I saw a young buck feeding, -without the slightest suspicion of danger. As I was within distance, I -aimed and fired; he fell as if shot through the brain, but my ball had -struck too high, so that at the moment when I came up to seize him he -recovered himself, and rose on his forelegs. I saw on the instant that -there was no time to lose, and threw myself upon him. The dog had also -seized him, and I was in the act of drawing my knife to plunge in his -throat, when<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_304" id="page_304"></a>{304}</span> he made a sudden effort, and we all three tumbled down a -declivity of nine or ten feet. In falling I had dropped my knife, which -fell among the stones, and I felt much pain in my head and left side; -but neither I nor Bearsgrease had let go our hold. The poor animal made -most desperate efforts to escape, and with our greatest exertions it was -hardly possible for us to hold him. Without a knife there was but one -method of securing him; a cruel one, indeed, but if I had to bite his -neck through with my teeth I would not let him go. I threw him over on -his side, and smashed his forelegs with a sharp stone. Thus crippled, -Bearsgrease could hold him; I jumped up, found my knife, and ended the -poor creature’s torments.</p> - -<p>I succeeded in slinging it with a great deal of trouble, my left side -paining me exceedingly; however I managed to climb up the steep, -recovered and loaded my rifle, and hobbled towards the camp, intending -to remain quiet the rest of the day.</p> - -<p>I found my old friend awaiting me. He had killed four bucks, and brought -away their haunches, the rest not being good eating at this season. We -settled to shoot towards the house next day, and then to take horses to -carry home the game we had shot.</p> - -<p>On our way homewards we only killed three turkeys. We caught the horses -the same evening, and once more reposed our weary limbs among my old -friend’s family circle.</p> - -<p>At midnight it began to rain, and towards morning it poured in torrents. -The game was not to be thought of, and we sat round the fire amusing -ourselves with</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_304a" id="page_304a"></a>{304a}</span></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_304b" id="page_304b"></a>{304b}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/p304bi_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/p304bi_sml.jpg" width="321" height="500" alt="[Image unavailable: THE CAPTURED BUFFALO.]" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">THE CAPTURED BUFFALO.</span> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_305" id="page_305"></a>{305}</span></p> - -<p class="nind">old stories and anecdotes. As we were talking of the prairies, Conwell -told us one of his adventures after buffaloes.</p> - -<p>“Not many years ago, when I lived in the Kickapoo prairie, in Missouri, -four of us set out one morning to shoot buffaloes. It was bitter cold, -and we rode rapidly over the frozen ground. On gaining an elevation, we -descried a herd in the distance, and made towards them. When about half -a mile from them they discovered us, and ran off, we after them -helter-skelter. The hindmost was a cow, too fat to keep up with the -others, so we all singled her out for our mark. After galloping for -about a mile, she received all our balls, and fell, when we secured her. -The wind was now blowing from the north-west, almost cold enough to -freeze the marrow in our bones, and the dry buffalo dung, the only fuel -in the prairies, made but a poor fire. The nearest wood was about a mile -from the place where the cow fell, and a debate arose whether we should -fetch the wood to the buffalo, or carry the buffalo to the wood. We -thought the latter easier. One of the party, named Turner, began to -strip off the skin; we offered to help him, but he would not permit it; -so, willingly leaving the cold work to him, we made as good a fire as we -could for him to warm his hands by. When the skin was off, we cut off -the prime pieces, took the marrow-bones, packed them in the skin, threw -them over a horse, and brought them to the nearest wood, where we -luckily found water. Our four tomahawks soon cut wood enough, and we -made a roaring fire; when it was burnt to charcoal we stuck<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_306" id="page_306"></a>{306}</span> in the -marrow-bones, first one end, then the other; and certainly there is no -more delicate eating for the backwoodsman than buffalo marrow, except -bear’s ribs, and wild honey. The meat was rather tough, and nothing -particular.</p> - -<p>“It was now getting dark, and we began to prepare our camp. One of the -party proposed, instead of each rolling himself separately in his -blanket, that we should spread the skin, which was large enough to hold -us all, and then lay all the blankets over us. But Turner objected, and -maintained that as he had skinned the cow alone, he alone would sleep in -it. It was all the same to us; we all had good blankets, and could make -ourselves comfortable by the fire, which we closely surrounded, while -Turner wrapped himself in his heavy skin, with the hairy side -inwards;—and we were all soon asleep.</p> - -<p>“The weather was extremely cold, and we were obliged to get up several -times in the course of the night, to lay on fresh wood, though Turner -never moved out of his warm skin. Towards morning the wind changed to -north-east, and the sky threatening a snow-storm, we decided on -returning home as soon as possible, to avoid the approaching storm, or -at any rate to get better shelter than the open prairie afforded. So we -swallowed our breakfasts quickly, and saddled the horses, which had been -feeding on the dry grass, and now approached as close as they could to -the fire. We called Turner several times to make him get up, but a -slight motion of the hide was the only answer. At length, a half -smothered cry for help issued from<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_307" id="page_307"></a>{307}</span> the skin. We rushed to Turner in -alarm, fearing something serious, but burst into a roar of laughter, on -finding that he was frozen in, and could not move a limb. We rolled him -to the fire, to thaw the skin, and set him free; the rolling and the -heat made him feel rather giddy, but a hot marrow-bone restored -him;—and then loading the horses with the softened skin, and the -remainder of the meat, we reached home before the storm, which came on -that evening with tremendous force.”</p> - -<p>The weather continued gloomy enough, the clouds hanging about the trees, -as if they were seeking shelter from the wind, which was driving them -from the rocky mountains. All the cattle collected near the house, with -their tails to the wind, and pendant ears, looking very wretched. -Luckily I found a few books,—such as “A Dialogue of Devils,” “The Life -of Marion,” “The Life of Washington,” “The Pilgrim’s Progress,” “The -United States’ Reader,” &c., and killed some of the time by turning over -their leaves.</p> - -<p>The rain lasted till the 12th January. The various streams had become -cataracts and rivers, so we were obliged to remain at home two days -longer. Meantime our store of meat had fallen very low, and there -appeared little hope of being able to use that which we had left hanging -in the forest. However we hastened away to save the skins, if there was -yet time. The streams were still so swelled that we could only pass them -on horseback. We reached our last camp about noon, and found, as we had -expected, that the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_308" id="page_308"></a>{308}</span> meat was tainted, and the greater part of it -devoured by vultures. We stretched the skins, in the hope that the wind, -with the help of a faint sun, which was peering bashfully through the -clouds, might dry them.</p> - -<p>As it grew late, and we had no other provisions than bread and salt, we -set off with the dogs to look for turkeys, and came upon a gang just as -they were making themselves comfortable for the night. We killed two, -and might have shot more, but did not wish to increase the quantity of -decaying meat in the neighborhood. On this account we removed our camp -about half a mile off, stretched our blankets to keep off a light -drizzling rain, hobbled the horses, and fed them with maize. The wolves -made a dreadful noise all night at our old quarters. In the morning the -rain held up, and the clouds separated a little; so I set off to try and -steal a march on them, and spoil their howling. The leaves were wet, and -going round to gain the wind, I crept for about two hundred yards on my -knees up to a large tree, and counted eight of them. Although they were -to windward of me, one of them raised his head and began snuffing the -air, then turned sharp round, and they all made off with their peculiar -long gallop for the bush. Now was my time or never; I aimed at one of -the largest, which covered another with its body. When the smoke cleared -away, not a wolf was to be seen; they had vanished like magic—but -following up the trail, I found one dead, and signs of another being -wounded; but I found nothing more of the latter,—he was probably<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_309" id="page_309"></a>{309}</span> torn -to pieces by his comrades. I scalped my prize, and returned to the camp; -the scalp is valued, as before stated, at three dollars.</p> - -<p>Meantime Conwell had employed himself in roasting turkeys, and we made -an excellent breakfast. We then started off again. When I came to the -place where I had hung up the buck, whose capture nearly cost me my -neck, I found that the wolves had succeeded in dragging it down, and -eaten nearly all but the bones. I knocked over another, and also killed -a wild cat; returning to camp in the afternoon, where Conwell had -arrived before me. He had killed a couple of deer, and we decided on -bringing them to the camp, as there were so many wolves about.</p> - -<p>Finding no traces of bears, we determined to leave the Richland and try -the Mulberry again; so next morning we loaded our horses, and set off on -our return. As we were descending a hill, Conwell stopped suddenly at -the foot of a large oak, and after examining the bark attentively, he -said that a bear was either in the tree, or had very lately left it. The -weather had improved, and it was again rather cold. We had nothing -better than our tomahawks for cutting down the tree, and they were not -very sharp; a few strokes proved the fact. Luckily for us it was hollow, -and we set-to with a will.</p> - -<p>After hacking at it for three hours, the tree began to crack. We seized -our rifles, called the dogs, and hastened towards the direction in which -the tree must fall, to be ready to receive him. A couple of small -splinters broke first; then a larger one; then the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_310" id="page_310"></a>{310}</span> top began to bend -slowly down the hill; then with a loud crash, and smashing its branches -in the fall, the tree measured its length on the ground. No bear -appeared; the nest was empty, though there could be no doubt it had -lately been tenanted, for the sides were beautifully smooth and clean. -There was a bough about five feet below the hole, where the bear went in -and out, on which an Indian must formerly have stood, and tried to make -an opening with his tomahawk, but without success; probably the bear, -disturbed by the blows, had made his way out in time. Judging by the -bark, this must have occurred about four or five years ago.</p> - -<p>While we were looking at it, Conwell asked what the dogs were about; -they appeared to be very eagerly licking up something from the ground, -and we found that, accidentally, we had cut down a tree with honey in -it. The bees were all torpid with the cold, and the dogs were enjoying -the honey, which the breaking boughs had brought to light. Our plans -were soon arranged; Conwell went to look for a deer; I took my tomahawk -to cut a trough, and was soon busy about the upper part of the trunk, -which was sound enough. As it was freezing, and the honey would not run, -there was no occasion to make the trough very deep; so it was soon -finished, and I loaded it with great lumps of the frozen delicacy. This -done, I collected wood and made a fire, expecting we should pass the -night here; but just then I heard the report of Conwell’s gun quite -near, followed by his hail: I answered, and was soon by his side. He had -killed a large fat<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_311" id="page_311"></a>{311}</span> doe, which we hung up by the hind legs, made a cut -above the haunch, and drew off the skin without another touch of the -knife, except at the knees, hocks, and head; stopping the holes, we -turned it with the hair outwards, and so made a bag to carry the honey. -When it was all in, I mounted, Conwell handed it to me, and away we went -homewards, leaving the greater part of the last deer behind.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/p311i_sml.jpg" width="93" height="91" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_312" id="page_312"></a>{312}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_X" id="CHAPTER_X"></a>CHAPTER X.</h2> - -<p class="chead">A PERILOUS BEAR-HUNT—A DEBATING SOCIETY—PANTHER HUNT—DISASTROUS EVENTS—DEATH OF ERSKINE—DEPARTURE.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">The winter sleep of bears—The she-bear and cubs in the cave—Our -perilous hunt—Erskine—Debating society in the woods—Questions -discussed—My proposition—Adventure with a panther—Our -wounds—Bad sport—Hunting with the Indians—The skeletons in the -cave—Erskine’s fatal encounter with the bear—My wounded -shoulder—Indian surgery—I decline settling in the -woods—sorrowful leave-taking.</p></div> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">We</span> had no trifle to carry, and were very glad to reach home; but our -feet were hardly out of the stirrups when we heard that some Indians had -looked in. They had discovered a cave which certainly contained a bear, -but the Cherokees, who had first found it, had not ventured to penetrate -far, as it was deep and narrow. This was grist to our mill. The skins -and meat were stowed away, the rifles discharged and cleaned, horses -fed, and all prepared for a regular hunt. We passed the evening in -telling stories about bears; among others Conwell related the following -anecdote respecting their winter sleep: “In this southern climate, the -bear generally lays up about Christmas, or the beginning of the year, -and remains till the end of February; if the weather is then mild he -comes out occasionally, and sometimes he does not return to his<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_313" id="page_313"></a>{313}</span> -winter-quarters, but prepares a new lair by biting down branches, and -making a bed for himself in the most secluded and thickest jungle, as -far removed as possible from the haunts of man. If they go into a cave, -they do not take any provisions with them, but keep sucking their paws, -whining all the time; when they become torpid, they lie with their head -doubled under them, and their fore-paws above it. I myself have crawled -into a cave, and poked bears with the end of my rifle, to make them -raise their heads, so that I might conveniently fire into their brains; -and the bears were always cowardly in a cave, except they had young, -when they fight furiously—but even then, only when they have no other -choice. When the weather is warm and they come out to drink, it is -extraordinary how exactly they always step in the same place; but as the -marks are thereby made so much deeper, these ‘stepping paths,’ as they -are called, are easily discovered.”</p> - -<p>The night was bitter cold; the day broke as fine as a sportsman could -wish. One of Conwell’s married sons, who lived in the neighborhood, -joined our party, and another young man named Smith, and as we rode by -the school, the master dismissed all the boys and girls, as the -temptation to accompany us was too strong to be resisted. We took plenty -of fir splinters for torches, and our guide was young Smith, who was one -of the party who had tracked the bear, but not ventured very far into -the cave.</p> - -<p>We reached the entrance about two o’clock in the afternoon, and prepared -a good dinner to strengthen us for the exertions in prospect. While the -meat was<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_314" id="page_314"></a>{314}</span> roasting, I took a survey of the outside, which presented a -wall of limestone rock, about thirty feet high, and about 300 feet long, -with four openings. After having well fortified the inner man, we -prepared to enter the cave. We took only one rifle with us, but each had -his large hunting-knife, and I buckled my powder-horn close to my side; -then with my rifle in my right hand, and a torch of at least twenty -inches in my left, we entered a dark passage about four feet high and -two feet wide; young Conwell came next to me with another torch, -followed by his father with a bundle of splinters to replace the torches -as they burnt out. For about eighty yards it was all hard rock, and we -advanced easily enough. But now came a sudden turn to the right, and the -cave was so low that we were obliged to crawl on our hands and knees; -the bottom was stiff clay, with numerous marks of bears, some quite -fresh. As we advanced the passage became still smaller, and we were -obliged to crawl on our stomachs. Thus far the Indians had penetrated, -as we found by splinters of fir, and marks of their elbows and knees in -the clay. The passage was now so small that I was obliged to lie quite -flat, and push myself along by my feet assisted by my left elbow, -holding the torch in my left hand, and the rifle in front with the -right. The aperture was quite round, and rubbed smooth by the passing in -and out of wild animals, who may perhaps have made this their -winter-quarters for hundreds of years. Here and there we found -stalactites, which were a great hinderance, and we often had -considerable difficulty in pushing ourselves through.</p> - -<p>Apparently, we were the first whites, indeed the first<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_315" id="page_315"></a>{315}</span> men, who had -ever ventured into the place, for the ground retained every impression -that had been made in it. In some places the marks of the bears were -petrified, having perhaps been left centuries ago. Once the thought -occurred to me: should we ever get out again, or perish here from -hunger? I went on however, all my senses on the stretch, to discover the -sleeping bear.</p> - -<p>We disturbed immense numbers of bats with our torches, and found also -several crickets and a few bluebottle flies. When my torch was nearly -burnt out, I stopped for a supply from young Conwell; the moment I -remained quite still, I thought I heard a low whining not far off; and -listening attentively, I distinctly heard the sound bear cubs make in -sucking, and a low deep growling; so there was no longer any doubt but -that we were near a she-bear with cubs.</p> - -<p>The place where I had stopped was rather more roomy, so that I could sit -up, and I turned to the two Conwells and asked if they heard the sound, -which they answered with a whispered “Yes;”—and we held a short council -as to further proceedings. In the first place, the cave was smaller -further on—secondly we had only expected a sleeping bear, instead of a -she-bear awake and with cubs, for which it was rather early in the -season; though C. told me afterwards, that in Arkansas he had -occasionally met with bear cubs as early as January. Whoever has seen a -she-bear defend her young, with ears laid back and open jaws, may form -some idea of our feelings. We were all bear-killers, and knew well -enough the danger we were encountering in a space almost too narrow to -admit of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_316" id="page_316"></a>{316}</span> any movement. But at all events there we were, and there was -the bear—and no one even hinted at a retreat.</p> - -<p>I examined my rifle closely to see that all was right, and as we slowly -worked our way forwards, the elder Conwell warned me to make sure of my -shot, adding drily, by way of comfort, that it would be all the better -for me; for if I missed I should be the first to suffer from the -animal’s fury.</p> - -<p>We came nearer and nearer to the growling bear, who certainly must long -since have heard us, and was now listening with all her might. At length -the mingled whining and growling appeared to be quite close, and holding -the torch behind my head, I plainly saw fiery eyeballs. I now halted, -cleared the sight of the rifle, which had got clogged with the clay, -refreshed my torch, and crept as silently as possible towards the dark -mass.</p> - -<p>The decisive moment was come; and as I could now distinguish the -animal’s head, through the surrounding darkness, I put myself in an -attitude to take aim. The bear had risen on her hind-legs, and sat with -their usual swinging motion; as I was trying to fix one of her eyes with -the rifle, she suddenly disappeared through the almost palpable -darkness.</p> - -<p>Following her up, we came upon three cubs, nice little things, which -roared lustily when for the first time they saw a light. These sounds -were by no means agreeable to us, for we had reason to fear that the -cries of the cubs might still more enrage the dam. We wished to save -them alive, and asked old Conwell to stay with them and quiet them and -to make a fire,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_317" id="page_317"></a>{317}</span> while we went after the old one. Conwell sat down, and -soon quieted them by giving them a finger to suck.</p> - -<p>About ten feet from the lair the cave divided into two passages of equal -size. The fresh marks showed that the bear had taken the one to the -right. Presently the cubs began to cry again with renewed force, which -rather alarmed us, for we should have been in an awkward predicament if -the bear had endeavored to hasten to their help, and found the way -blocked up by our bodies; for, with the best will in the world, she -could neither pass over us nor by our sides, and there was no other way -left than to kill us, and eat her way through. While we were consulting -together about this matter, in a low voice, the cry suddenly ceased, and -we pushed on silently in better spirits; for, from all that we had seen, -this bear was rather more cowardly than usual.</p> - -<p>We went on and on, to the great annoyance of our ribs and elbows, and -there seemed to be no end to the cave. There was a peculiarity about it, -which I never found in any other, namely, several flat stones about one -and two inches thick, which rang like steel when slightly struck with -the finger. One place was very remarkable. It was about fifty or sixty -feet long, with similar flat stones on each side, approaching to within -six inches of each other in the middle, so that one could have passed -through in a sitting posture, with the neck in the narrow part, and the -head in the upper compartment; but to say the least, this would have -been a rather inconvenient position for receiving the attack of an -enraged bear.</p> - -<p>After clearing this double passage, we arrived at<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_318" id="page_318"></a>{318}</span> a spring, which had -worn itself a channel of about eighteen inches deep, and eight or nine -wide. After working our way through another difficult pass, as I was in -the act of drawing a long breath, I heard a deep growl very near me. -Although I had been listening for this sound every foot of the way for -several hours, yet, on hearing it so suddenly and so close, I was rather -startled, and nearly let fall the torch; but quickly recovering, and -raising the torch as high as possible, to the discomfort and horror of -several innocent bats, I could make out Mrs. Bruin, about ten yards off, -sitting upright, gnashing her teeth, digging into the ground with her -sharp claws, and apparently in the worst possible humor.</p> - -<p>Young Conwell, who was close behind me, laid his hand lightly on my -foot, and whispered that he heard the bear. As I had obtained this -intelligence for myself, I whispered to him to be quiet, and creeping -forward a couple of paces, I came to a place from whence I thought I -could fire with effect. I placed my right foot in the channel of the -stream, raised myself as well as I could on my left knee, and brought up -the rifle. Young Conwell, who was anxiously watching all my motions, -whispered me for God’s sake to aim carefully, for if I made a bad shot -we were both done for. Although I was nearer the danger than he was, I -would not have changed places with him, as he could not see what was -going on, and must naturally fear the worst; and in such cases, it is -preferable to be in the post of danger, than to remain in a state of -suspense.</p> - -<p>The bear, by no means pleased with our intrusion, laid back her ears, -snapped her teeth, and kept constantly<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_319" id="page_319"></a>{319}</span> swinging to and fro; as she did -not sit quite upright I had no other choice than to aim at the head, in -the hope that if I missed my aim, the ball might pierce the breast. As I -was taking aim, the thought crossed my brain for a moment (why should I -deny it?) how helpless I was if the shot failed; but it lasted only a -moment, and, in the excitement of the present, I forgot both past and -future.</p> - -<p>I took a long aim, and yet, as the bear was not still for one second I -pulled the trigger too soon. The cave was filled with thick smoke; a -fearful groan announced that the beast was wounded; we did not wait to -examine the state of affairs, but crept back as fast as the narrow space -would allow, to a spot where there was more room to move, in order to -reload, and return to the attack.</p> - -<p>We had retreated, backwards, for about a hundred yards, and had halted -in a more convenient part of the cave, when we heard the bear coming -towards us, snorting and snapping her teeth, till the cave echoed with -the sound. My first thought was “Good-by to the light of the sun.” But I -had not much time for consideration, and called to young Conwell to make -haste if he valued our lives, for the old one was coming. He did not -require much pressing, and I never saw crabs crawl backwards quicker -than we tried to do; yet, however great our hurry, and imminent our -danger, it was very slow work, and the snorting came nearer and nearer.</p> - -<p>I had dropped my rifle, as it very much hindered my retreat, and keeping -a sharp look-out in front, where I constantly expected to see the bear, -I suddenly<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_320" id="page_320"></a>{320}</span> discovered the glowing eyes only a few paces off. Just at -this moment, my left elbow struck against a projecting bit of rock; the -torch fell out of my hand, and all was dark as pitch; for although young -Conwell had a second torch, my body filled up the space so completely -that not a ray of light could pass. I took up the glimmering splinter, -and threw it at the bear, which checked her, but only for a moment. -Suddenly young Conwell stopped, and said he could not find the passage; -and making a slip with his right hand, which held the torch, he dropped -it in the water. I could not answer for the bear, who had followed us -slowly, as if she knew that we were doing our best to get out of her -way; she must have been so near, that I felt sure that if I stretched -out my arm to its full extent I should touch her; for I could feel her -hot breath on my face. With my left arm a little in advance, the right -with the hunting-knife drawn back, I awaited, with every stroke of the -pulse, the beast’s attack, thinking of nothing else than selling my life -as dearly as possible; for I had no hopes of getting out alive.</p> - -<p>Meantime, young Conwell had not been idle. Aware that we could do -nothing without a light, he had felt for his tinder-box, and the noise -of his flint and steel was the only sound that broke a silence like that -of the grave; for at the first blow the bear had ceased growling to -listen to the strange sounds.</p> - -<p>After a painful and anxious pause, he called out, “I have got a light, -give me the powder-horn and a rag.” I cut away the first from its sling, -then tore off a piece of my hunting-shirt, and passed them behind me. In -a few minutes he recovered his splinter; this gave us,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_321" id="page_321"></a>{321}</span> or rather me, -new hopes; for he had no fear—firstly, because he could not know how -near the bear was; and, secondly, because, as he assured me afterwards, -he was so intent on striking a light, that he could think of nothing -else. He had also succeeded in turning himself round, and his voice -sounded to me like an angel’s song when he called out that he had found -the passage. He had now the advantage of creeping forwards, while I was -still obliged to show front to the bear; but he gave me a few more -splinters of fir, and a light, and we again began our slow retreat -towards the entrance.</p> - -<p>As I held the torch forwards, the bear gave a deep growl, gnashed her -teeth, and retreated a pace or two, but followed again as soon as she -saw that I was retiring. Necessity sharpens invention; I laid a couple -of burning sticks crosswise on the ground, and saw, to my inexpressible -delight, that she did not venture to pass them. Shuffling back as fast -as I could, I heard Jim (young C.) call out to his father to go back, as -the bear was coming. No other words were spoken, and indeed the growling -came nearer; the fire had probably gone out on the moist ground, and -then she followed us again.</p> - -<p>I now crawled over the place where we had first discovered her, and -found out the reason why the cubs had so suddenly ceased their cry. When -we stopped, uncertain what to do, old C. had dashed their heads against -the rock, and thus most likely saved our lives; for a cry from the cubs -when our torches had gone out, would have enraged the wounded animal so -much, that she would certainly have attacked us, and we<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_322" id="page_322"></a>{322}</span> should have -been either killed, or so dreadfully crippled that we must have perished -miserably in the cave.</p> - -<p>At about a hundred paces from the lair, I stopped to listen again, but -could hear nothing. I now called to the others to wait for me, and when -we came to a more roomy place, which had also been the retreat of a -bear, we held a consultation. Old C. thought that the bear had lain down -by her dead cubs, and that one of us had better return to the mouth of -the cave and fetch another rifle, as it was out of the question trying -to pass the furious animal to get at mine. However, before attempting -the long and difficult way back to the entrance, I resolved to creep -again to the lair and see if she was not dead, for I could not but think -that my ball must have had some effect. When I got there I could see -nothing of her. My shout brought the others to the spot; so, advancing a -little, and examining closely, we saw thick dark blood, and found that, -instead of returning to her lair, she had taken the left-hand passage. I -instantly proceeded to regain my rifle, which I found, covered with -blood and slime, about three hundred yards off. I returned as fast as I -possibly could, cleaned it, and reloaded, when we all started again for -a fresh attack.</p> - -<p>The left-hand passage was as bad as the right; but luckily the bear had -not gone far. We soon reached the place, where, grinding her teeth, she -awaited our approach. I halted about eight or nine feet from her, raised -myself as high as the space would allow, laid the rifle over my left -arm, in which I held the torch, and, seizing the time when her head was -quiet for an instant,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_323" id="page_323"></a>{323}</span> I fired. Again the cave echoed the crack of the -rifle, and all was enveloped in thick smoke. I heard the bear groan and -move, but stood my ground, as this time I knew that my ball had struck -the right place: as the smoke cleared away, she lay dead before me.</p> - -<p>Young Conwell and I were half dead from our exertions, and it would have -been impossible for us to get the bear out:—for the time we had been -crawling in the close air of the cave and smoke of the torches, and the -long-continued excitement of constant danger, were almost too much for -the constitution of any man; so we decided on returning to the fresh air -as fast as we could. It took us about half an hour to do so, and I shall -never forget the effect of the delightfully cool night air, as I drew it -in in long inspirations, and gazed on the bright-blue starry skies.</p> - -<p>Young Smith and the schoolmaster were fast asleep, but as the dogs -barked they both jumped up, and almost fell down again from fright, for -they swore that they had never seen such horrible figures as we looked -in the red light of the torches, covered with blood and slime, and -blackened with smoke. Judging by the stars, it must have been about two -o’clock in the morning. Although as hungry as lions, we were too -exhausted to touch any thing; so we lay down and slept till daybreak. We -made a good breakfast, and then, leaving old Conwell behind, who had -done rather too much for his time of life, we four again entered the -cave to bring out our prizes. We fastened a cord round the old bear’s -neck; I squeezed past, and shoved from behind, while Smith and the -schoolmaster pulled, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_324" id="page_324"></a>{324}</span> young Jim Conwell held the light. We gained -ground inch by inch, and about noon, amid a general hurrah, we cast down -the carcase by the camp fire, where it was instantly taken possession of -by Bearsgrease, who laid himself growling by its side.</p> - -<p>As we had some way to go home, we only opened and cleaned her, and broke -the spine, so that the carcase might lay better across a horse. We -reached home by the evening; I took a plunge in the river, and then -settled down to sleep.</p> - -<p>We rose refreshed the next morning ready for further efforts, and -concluded to try some caves that old Conwell knew of. We provided -ourselves with cords and food, and made two large wax candles, which are -less disagreeable in a close cave than pine torches, give a better -light, and are not so liable to go out. We arrived at the place in the -afternoon, and found eight or nine caves, from forty to eighty feet -deep, but all empty. We now separated to try different paths, and agreed -that as soon as any one found a trail, he was to make a signal so that -all might join in the chase.</p> - -<p>I found a small cave with fresh marks, but no bear. On returning to the -mouth, I heard the dogs, and listening attentively for a minute or two, -I felt sure they were coming towards me. Presently the noise of rushing -through breaking branches was very distinct, and at last a bear broke -cover. Throwing himself without hesitation down a precipice of about ten -feet, he came towards me as fast as his legs would carry him. I stood -still to see how near he would come. At about fifty paces distance he -winded me, stopped short in his career,</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_324a" id="page_324a"></a>{324a}</span></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_324b" id="page_324b"></a>{324b}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/p324bi_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/p324bi_sml.jpg" width="321" height="500" alt="[Image unavailable: CLOSE QUARTERS WITH BRUIN.]" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">CLOSE QUARTERS WITH BRUIN.</span> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_325" id="page_325"></a>{325}</span></p> - -<p class="nind">snuffed the air for an instant, and then made off in a different -direction. I seized the opportunity offered, and sent him a ball; but I -was not quite cool enough, and only wounded him in the hip. Meantime, -the dogs having been stopped by the bluff which Bruin had so -unceremoniously disposed of, he gained a good space in advance; but the -wound checked his speed, and I could soon distinguish by the dogs’ bark -that they had come up with him again, but were keeping out of reach of -his paws. A young man named Erskine, who was shooting near us, attracted -by the report of my gun and the barking of the dogs, came up and gave -the mortal wound. The two Conwells joined soon after, and we broke him -up together.</p> - -<p>Erskine told us that he had found a cave, which he was sure contained a -bear, and asked one of us to go with him and try it, as he had neither -torches nor wax candles. I was ready at once, took one of the candles, -and explaining to the others where they might find us, we set off, and -reached the place about sunset. We first made a large fire before the -entrance of the cave, and then crept into it, E. preceding. Further on, -the passage grew larger, so that we could walk upright, side by side. -After going some distance, we heard the regular low whine of the bear, -who was sucking his paws, and Erskine, also a regular bear-hunter, -asserted that he was fast asleep. Passing a sharp turn in the cave, we -discovered him at our feet, and, as my comrade had stated, fast asleep, -his head between his paws, uttering a low monotonous whine. Erskine set -the muzzle of the rifle to the back of his head, and fired; he gave a -convulsive start, and lay dead. I probed the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_326" id="page_326"></a>{326}</span> wound with my fore finger -to see how far the ball had penetrated; the rifle threw a ball of -twenty-two to the pound; the skull was completely shattered.</p> - -<p>We now decided on getting out of the cave for a little repose and -refreshment, and to await the Conwells. We found them sitting by the -fire, and young C. offered at once to take the cord and fasten it round -the bear’s neck, and try and pull him out alone. Lighting one of the -candles, he soon disappeared in the cave. They had examined several -other caves, but had not found any more signs. Extraordinary to relate, -we had not seen a single deer during the course of our hunt; the forest -seemed deserted, excepting by a bear or two in the caves, and a very few -turkeys.</p> - -<p>We had rested and talked for about half an hour, when young C. -reappeared without the bear, having found it too heavy, and requiring -help. We went, one and all, taking fresh torches with us, to the scene -of action, and dragged him out, though with considerable difficulty, as -many parts of the route were ill adapted for the transport of such a -mass of flesh. Lying down by the fire, we slept comfortably till late -next morning. It was near noon ere we could tear ourselves away from our -couches of soft leaves, but as we all agreed that we must move sooner or -later, we got up, loaded the horses with our prizes, and moved off -towards Conwell’s dwelling in as direct a line as the nature of the -country would allow. We kept no look-out for game on our way home, -having meat enough, and being almost tired to death.</p> - -<p>We received a hearty welcome from Conwell’s family, and we resolved to -enjoy a little repose after all our<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_327" id="page_327"></a>{327}</span> hard work. In spite of the bears -and bats that I encountered in my dreams, I awoke quite refreshed, and -did full justice to the beautiful breakfast of bear-collops, milk, and -maize bread. Perhaps the wild outdoor life which we had been leading may -have lent more charms to the quiet life of this happy home, than under -other circumstances I should have been sensible of; but, be that as it -may, I shall never forget this amiable family. Old C. and I sat the -whole day by the fireside, mending our leggings and moccasins. He was -certainly the last man in the world to neglect spinning a yarn when he -had a good opportunity, and he told me so many anecdotes, and related so -many adventures, that the day passed away only too soon.</p> - -<p>About an hour before sunset, a neighbor came in to inquire whether we -would go with him to the debates. “Debates!” I asked, quite astonished, -“what does that mean?” He seemed still more astonished at my ignorance, -and explained that, on every Friday, it was the custom to hold a meeting -at the school-house, about two miles off, to debate on any subject which -might be proposed, and in which the scholars took part. The account -excited my curiosity still more, and I decided on no account to miss -such an opportunity. Old C. had frequented these meetings too often to -be induced to leave his comfortable fireside; but I saddled a horse at -once, and was soon at the school.</p> - -<p>Imagine a large smoky building in the midst of a forest, with dark, -dusty windows; a broad, well-worn door-stone; a heavy iron-bound door; -and rules and regulations pasted up here and there in the room. A number -of horses, fastened to the surrounding trees,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_328" id="page_328"></a>{328}</span> showed that several of -the debaters were already assembled. A bright fire burned in the -chimney, the room was nearly full, and almost everybody was talking. At -length order was established, and the company proceeded to the business -of the evening. Two judges and two leaders were selected. The judges -took their places in the centre, while the leaders stationed themselves -on opposite sides, each taking it in turns to choose a follower from the -persons present. The question to be decided was this: “In a thickly -inhabited district, where much cattle was reared, there was only one -parish bull. The district was on the bank of a broad river, and the -inhabitants were obliged to cross it very often, as all the mills and -tanneries were on the other side—but there was only one ferry-boat, -passed to and fro by a single rope. The bull got down to the ferry, and -on board the boat, and gnawed the rope in two; the boat floated down the -river with the bull, and boat and bull were never seen again.” These -were the facts, now comes the question, “Who is to pay the damage for -the loss? The owner of the boat for carrying off the bull, or the owner -of the bull, because, from some malicious though undiscovered intention, -he stole the boat?”</p> - -<p>It was highly amusing to see one after another stand up, and seriously -defend the cause of the bull, or the boat; others again talked all sorts -of nonsense for a quarter of an hour, and then sat down with the remark -that it was unnecessary to say more, as the case was so clear that the -judges could not do otherwise than give a decision in their favor. After -all had been heard, myself included, the judges consulted<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_329" id="page_329"></a>{329}</span> together, and -the owner of the bull was condemned to pay the expenses. The next -question was: “Which is better, a single or a married life?” The judges -were not quite impartially chosen. The wife of one had run off with a -young man to Texas, three years ago; the wife of the other had three -times borne twins. I was chosen on the married side with the -schoolmaster, three or four other young men, and six or seven of the -scholars. We defended our cause with glowing animation—but one judge -thought of Texas, and the other of the twins, and our scale kicked the -beam. Several other questions were discussed; among them, “Which is -worse, a smoky chimney or a scolding wife?” Left undecided. At last I -was invited to propose a subject, but I would not consent until I -received assurance that it should be discussed: “Which enjoys life most, -has fewer cares, and lighter sorrows—a short or a long-tailed dog?” But -by this time it was late, and time to adjourn; so the house was soon -left to its solitude in the forest, and the party dispersed in all -directions to their dwellings.</p> - -<p>On the morning of the 22nd January, Old Conwell and I shouldered our -rifles, and each provided with meat and bread, we wandered towards the -waters of the Richland. Lucky was it that we took provisions, for not a -shot did we fire. Next day was almost as bad, and if Conwell had not -knocked over a turkey, we should have been reduced to chew sassafras. At -length on the third day, he shot a deer and I a turkey, which put a -little life into the dogs. Disgusted with our bad luck, we decided on -returning home next day; besides, the weather was bad, and threatened -to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_330" id="page_330"></a>{330}</span> be worse. To our inexpressible joy, snow fell during the night, and -all thoughts of return vanished. We took different directions, with the -agreement to return to camp in the evening. I had not gone far when I -saw footsteps of a young buck in the four-inch deep snow, followed him -up and shot him. I heard the report of Conwell’s rifle about the same -time. Hanging up the deer, I walked on. After lounging along slowly for -above an hour, without seeing any thing, I came across the track of -Conwell, who, with his dog, had been following up the bloody trail of a -panther; I gathered from the signs that he had broken his left hind leg. -I followed it up on the instant, as fast as my legs could carry me; in -rather more than an hour I arrived at the mouth of a cave, where Conwell -was awaiting me, knowing that I should cross his trail, and follow it up -as soon as I saw the marks of the panther.</p> - -<p>The wounded brute had taken refuge in the cave, leaving us to act as we -pleased, probably thinking himself quite safe. We held a short -consultation;—Conwell said, that he had hidden a bundle of kindlers in -a hole, and that if I would keep watch here, he would go and fetch them. -I consented, of course, and laid myself down before the cave, with bare -knife and cocked rifle. Lying in the snow, however, was any thing but -agreeable; at first, when I was warm with running, I thought nothing of -it, but by degrees I became colder and colder, till my teeth chattered. -I could not venture to lay aside the rifle to make a fire, for fear the -panther should escape. I managed to keep up a little warmth by running -and jumping, but was<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_331" id="page_331"></a>{331}</span> very glad when my old friend returned and made a -good fire.</p> - -<p>As soon as we were well warmed, we made torches, and entered the cave as -cautiously as possible, each with a burning torch in his left hand, and -a rifle in the right. I went first, but the cave was soon roomy enough -to admit of our walking upright beside each other. Some distance in, it -took a turn to the left, and about two hundred paces in advance we saw -the fiery eyeballs of the beast, who kept shutting them from time to -time. Conwell, taking my torch, stepped behind me, while I took aim and -fired. We heard a noise after the shot, but could not make out the -result; I reloaded as fast as possible, while Conwell went in advance, -but we could see nothing more of the animal’s eyes. We went on with -cocked rifles on our left arm. Moving silently and cautiously forward, -we suddenly discovered the panther in a little hollow close to our feet, -a beautiful but alarming sight, his ears laid back, his teeth gnashing -in wild rage, and his glowing eyes so wide open, that they seemed half -out of their sockets. Inspired by one impulse, we both fired so exactly -together, that neither knew that the other had done so. Our enemy was -hit, but whether mortally or not was more than we could tell. Dropping -our rifles like lightning, we drew our knives; a sore need we had of -them, for before the sound of the rifles expired, we felt the weight of -the panther upon us. I drove my knife into him, and sprang back; our -torches were extinguished; it all passed so quickly, that I did not -recover full possession of my senses, till I stood beside my old friend -in the fresh air at<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_332" id="page_332"></a>{332}</span> the mouth of the cave. I only remember that, in the -impenetrable darkness and thick smoke, I did not know which way to turn, -and that Conwell dragged me out. When we came into the light of day, we -found ourselves covered with sweat and blood, and our clothes all torn.</p> - -<p>Conwell complained of pain in the breast. Tearing open his shirt, we -found two deep gashes from the left shoulder to the pit of the stomach; -I had escaped with only a few scratches. We had neither of us felt when -we were wounded, but before we troubled ourselves about it, we made a -fire in the mouth of the cave to prevent the panther from coming out; -then washed and bound up our wounds, and sat by the fire to consider -what was next to be done. There was the panther in the cave, whether -alive or dead we knew not. At any rate, he was badly wounded, for both -our knives, with blades nine inches long, were bloody to the hilt. But -indeed we had no choice; our rifles, and Conwell’s ball-pouch, which the -brute had torn away, were still in the cave.</p> - -<p>It might perhaps have been possible to suffocate the panther with smoke, -but there might have been another opening, and then we should have had -our trouble for nothing. We soon made up our minds, and entered the cave -again with fresh torches and bare knives, but not without beating -hearts. We moved silently and cautiously on, holding the torches well -before us, so as not to be so agreeably surprised a second time. We -recovered our rifles without seeing the enemy. I held both the torches -while Conwell loaded his rifle, then gave them to him while I loaded<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_333" id="page_333"></a>{333}</span> -mine; and having our faithful weapons once more in our hands, we stepped -forward again still slowly and silently, but with lighter hearts. -“There!” suddenly called out C., holding his torch aloft, and staring -before him; it was the first word spoken since we re-entered the cave. -The panther lay stretched on the ground; no longer dangerous, for the -last convulsions were over. We skinned him and cut him up; all the balls -had taken effect, and both our knives had pierced his body, so that it -was only in his death-struggle that he sprang upon us. We took the skin, -although it almost looked like a sieve, and returned to our fire.</p> - -<p>It was night by the time we came out of the cave, and, with hungry -stomachs, lay all four by the fire; for neither we nor the dogs had any -fancy to eat the panther. Conwell suffered very much from his wound, but -towards morning he fell into a tolerably quiet sleep. We moved off with -the first gleam of day to the place where I had hung up the buck, -breakfasted there, and started for fresh game.</p> - -<p>Meantime it had become warmer. The snow had disappeared, but all the -game seemed to have gone on their travels; for although we saw signs -enough, not a shot could we get. In the night we were awakened by a thin -cold rain, and having no mind to get wet through, we jumped up, cut -poles with our heavy knives, and spreading my blanket, which was the -largest, over them, and laying ourselves on the other, underneath it, -after making up the fire afresh, that the rain might not put it out, we -were soon fast asleep.</p> - -<p>Next morning brought fresh troubles, but no reward.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_334" id="page_334"></a>{334}</span> Dispirited, we -wandered the whole day through the wet forest, without seeing a turkey. -The meat we had brought with us was getting low, as we had not been very -saving of it, and had given the larger share to the dogs; after -breakfast there was one small piece left for each to share with his dog -at night; still hoping, we walked on cautiously and attentively till -late at night, without seeing even so much as a vulture.</p> - -<p>On the morning of the 29th of January, we sat by the fire with empty -stomachs, and stared sorrowfully at the crackling flames. At length -Conwell burst out with a loud laugh, and asked whether we were forced to -remain in this deserted spot, and why we should not go home. But I would -not give it up yet; to go home with nothing but a panther’s skin full of -holes was too bad, and I begged for one more day; at any rate, if we -found nothing before twelve o’clock, we could then meet at the camp and -return home. In silence, and on the watch for the merest trifles, I -wandered with Bearsgrease through all the places where hitherto I had -almost always found game, without meeting a sign; and my hunger was -quite painful. How I thought of shooting parties at home, where one was -sure of finding some sort of a house every half hour; here, was only -thick forest, where one wet dripping tree looked exactly like another. -And yet it was not without its charms. For instance, every now and then -you were entangled by the thorns of the black locust, or if your -slippery moccasins caused you to fall, you might be sure of finding some -of them conveniently placed to receive you.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_335" id="page_335"></a>{335}</span></p> - -<p>I returned to the camp about noon, exhausted and dispirited, and found -my old comrade stretched quietly by the fire. He said he had been -waiting for me about a couple of hours; that it was very clear there was -no game to shoot; and I was now of the same opinion. Heartily sick of -the useless fatigue, we shouldered the skin and our blankets, and left -the place with heavy hearts and weary limbs.</p> - -<p>It was long after dark when we arrived at Conwell’s home, and received -the usual kind welcome, and we were heartily laughed at, when, instead -of bringing provisions, we fell, like famished wolves, upon every thing -eatable that came in our way. A long draught of fresh milk did me, above -every thing else, an immensity of good.</p> - -<p>I would willingly have enjoyed a day’s rest; but Conwell—who, in spite -of his deep gashes, which were not yet healed, was as fresh and strong -as ever after his first meal, and could not remain quiet under the -circumstances—impressed on me the necessity of trying again, otherwise -people would believe that we had lost the power of shooting a deer. So -we were off again before noon, gained the source of the Hurricane, rode -across the “Devil’s Stepping Path,” a narrow rock with a precipice on -each side, left the Pilot-rock on our left, and came towards evening -into the pine forests, where we were sure of finding kindlers. -Descending the steep side of a mountain, we observed a column of thin -blue smoke by the side of a stream, showing that some hunters were -encamped there. We went straight towards it, and found it to be an -Indian camp, and our former acquaintance, young Erskine, among them.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_336" id="page_336"></a>{336}</span> -They were Cherokees with three young Choctaws, these two tribes being on -good terms. Like ourselves, they were out bear-hunting, but had had -better luck. A quantity of bear meat was hanging about the camp, and -even the dogs could eat no more. Casting ourselves down by the fire, one -of the squaws—for there were several women in the camp—immediately -cooked some bear for us, with which we duly regaled ourselves.</p> - -<p>Night came on, and soon all were sunk in deep repose. I was not inclined -to sleep, and Bearsgrease, who had tired himself with chasing a gang of -turkeys, which escaped at last by flying across a ravine, lay close to -me, with his head on my left arm. Soon he began to dream, scrambling -with his feet as if running, and barking in a low voice. Watching him -brought to my mind a story which was told me by an old bear-killer, to -the effect, that if a man lays his pocket-handkerchief over the head of -a dreaming dog, letting it stay till the dream is out, then lays it -under his own head, and falls asleep, he will have the same dream that -the dog had. A pocket-handkerchief was a luxury I had dispensed with, -but I laid my Scotch cap on my dog’s head, under which he went on -dreaming, and when he awoke I laid it under my own head, and was soon -asleep. It was perhaps owing to the idea under which I fell asleep, -although in general I can never dream what I wish, but, be that as it -may, I soon found myself running desperately after turkeys, and never -stopped, till I had chased them into a tree, when I stood looking up at -them without thinking of shooting. Just then my dog gave a loud bark, -and I jumped up.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_337" id="page_337"></a>{337}</span> One of the Indians had risen to look to the fire, and -Bearsgrease thought it rather suspicious. My beautiful dream was gone, -and I could no longer recollect whether I barked or not. I fell asleep -again, but the dream never returned.</p> - -<p>Early in the morning we began to move, dividing into two parties, for -the better chance of finding game. Conwell went with some of the -Indians, amongst whom he had found an old acquaintance, to make a -circuit round the Pilot-rock, while Erskine and I, with three Cherokees, -proceeded to the sources of the Frog bayou.</p> - -<p>About ten o’clock we came to a cave, which seemed worth examining. We -made torches, there being plenty of strips of pine lying about; it was -settled that I should try my luck, with one of the Indians. Erskine -remained with the two others by the fire, saying he had searched so many -caves within the last four days without finding any thing, that he was -tired of it. The entrance was rather small, but it became gradually -larger, and we went a long way in. There were evidences of its having -been tried before, as we found moccasin marks, and pieces of burnt wood. -An unexpected sight suddenly arrested our progress,—the skeletons of a -man and of a bear, lying peaceably within three feet of each other. A -rifle thickly covered with rust, and a corroded knife, lay by the side -of the first, and some glass beads convinced us that it was the skeleton -of an Indian, who had bravely attacked the bear single-handed, and had -fallen in the struggle, the skeleton of the bear proving that he had -sold his life dearly.</p> - -<p>The skeleton was perfect, except some of the small<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_338" id="page_338"></a>{338}</span> bones, which rats or -snakes might have carried off. The Indian pointed in silence to the -upper bone of the right arm, which was broken, and the knife was lying -on the left side.</p> - -<p>The sight of these remains of a human being, which may have lain there -for years, while his footsteps were still so fresh in the moist earth, -was deeply affecting. As I was about to pass on, the Indian laid his -hand on my arm, and shook his head, saying, in broken English, “The -spirit of the red man is in the cave, and Wachiga goes no further.” -Nothing could induce him to go on—all my persuasions were fruitless; -pointing to the bones, he said, “The bones of the red man belonged to a -great chief; the bear seeks no bed where the hunter sleeps.” As this -last remark seemed well founded, and as the sight had shaken me too much -for me to go alone, we turned back without touching the remains.</p> - -<p>We found Erskine alone, and told him what we had seen, but he did not -seem at all inclined to visit the remains. We found three other caves, -but no bear: Erskine and the Indians tried the two first, Erskine and I -the last. The cave separated into two passages; Erskine took the right, -I the left, and as I proceeded I found plenty of marks. The cave was so -small that I was obliged to leave every thing but a torch and my knife; -I could not even turn myself from one side to the other to change my -attitude. I had taken off my hunting shirt, and had on nothing but a -cotton shirt and leggings, and was working on, inch by inch, with -tolerable certainty of finding a bear. The passage was quite round, and -in many places as smooth as glass<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_339" id="page_339"></a>{339}</span> from being rubbed by wild beasts. In -one place I found the skin of a rattle-snake.</p> - -<p>At length I got so completely jammed in that I could neither move -backwards nor forwards. The perspiration burst from every pore, and for -a minute or two I lay motionless; then I again exerted all my efforts to -force myself backwards, and, to my indescribable satisfaction, at length -succeeded, leaving, however, the greater part of my shirt behind me; and -my delight may be imagined when I again inhaled the fresh air. My hair -stood on end at the fearful thought of sticking fast in such a hole, -buried alive, and dying of hunger.</p> - -<p>Night found us far from our camp, so we made one for ourselves where we -were. Wachiga, who had become very pensive, sat smoking his tomahawk and -staring at the fire. Notwithstanding that he had been converted to -Christianity, he had still some remains of the old superstition. Erskine -was in high good humor, and told one droll story after another.</p> - -<p>On the next morning, February 1st, we had hardly started ere we heard -the dogs. Wachiga declared instantly that they were his brother’s, and -disappeared behind the rocks without another word. As we stood -listening, the sound seemed to take a different direction; we ascended -the mountain as fast as we could to cut off the chase, but found that we -must have been mistaken, for in a few minutes all was silent as the -grave; once we thought we heard a shot, but could not be certain. We -ascended to the highest terrace and walked slowly on, looking out for -fresh signs, and listening to catch the sound of the dogs;<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_340" id="page_340"></a>{340}</span> below, -amongst the broken masses of rock, they might be near without being -heard, while on the mountain tops they are audible at a great distance.</p> - -<p>It may have been about two in the afternoon, and we had hitherto seen -nothing, when Bearsgrease raised his nose in the air, remained for an -instant or two in a fixed position, then giving a short smothered howl, -dashed down the mountain side. Listening attentively, we heard the chase -coming down the Hurricane river. Erskine called out triumphantly, “We -shall have plenty of bear this evening,” and dashed after the dog. I was -soon by his side. I must observe, by the way, that we were both very -hungry. Presently a bear broke through the bushes; a projecting rock -stopped him for an instant, when Erskine saluted him with a ball: he -received mine as he rushed past, and disappeared. The dogs, encouraged -to greater efforts by our shots and the stronger scent, followed him -out, Bearsgrease, who was quite fresh, leading the van. They soon came -up with him, and stopped him. We rushed to the spot without waiting to -reload, and arrived in time to see the beast, excited to the greatest -fury, kill four of our best dogs with as many blows of his paws; but the -others only threw themselves on him with the greater animosity, and if -our rifles had been loaded we could not have used them. Just as a large -powerful brown dog which had furiously attacked the bear was knocked -over bleeding and howling, Erskine called out, “Oh, save the dogs,” -threw down his rifle, and rushed on with his knife among the furious -group; I followed on the instant. When the bear saw us coming, he -exerted still more force to beat</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_340a" id="page_340a"></a>{340a}</span></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_340b" id="page_340b"></a>{340b}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/p340bi_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/p340bi_sml.jpg" width="316" height="500" alt="[Image unavailable: THE FATAL BEAR HUNT.]" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">THE FATAL BEAR HUNT.</span> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_341" id="page_341"></a>{341}</span></p> - -<p class="nind">off the dogs, and meet us. Seizing his opportunity, my comrade ran his -steel into his side. The bear turned on him like lightning, and seized -him; he uttered a shrill piercing shriek. Driven to desperation by the -sight, I plunged my knife three times into the monster’s body with all -my force, without thinking of jumping back; at the third thrust the bear -turned upon me. Seeing his paw coming, I attempted to evade the blow, -felt a sharp pang, and sunk senseless to the ground.</p> - -<p>When I recovered my senses, Bearsgrease was licking the blood from my -face. On attempting to rise, I felt a severe pain in my left side, and -was unable to move my left arm. On making a fresh effort to rise, I -succeeded in sitting up. The bear was close to me, and—less than three -feet from him lay Erskine, stiff and cold. I sprang up with a cry of -horror, and rushed towards him. It was too true; he was bathed in blood, -his face torn to pieces, his right shoulder almost wrenched away from -his body, and five of the best dogs ripped up and with broken limbs -lying beside him. The bear was so covered with blood that his color was -hardly discernible. My left arm appeared to be out of the socket, but I -could feel that no bones were broken.</p> - -<p>The sun had gone down, and I had hoped that the other hunters might have -heard our shots and the barking and howling of the dogs. It grew dark. -No one came. I roared and shouted like mad; no one heard me. I tried to -light a fire, but my left arm was so swelled that I gave up the attempt. -But as it would have been certain death to pass the night under these,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_342" id="page_342"></a>{342}</span> -circumstances without a fire, I tore away part of the back of my hunting -shirt, the fore part being saturated with blood, sprinkled some powder -on it, rubbed it well in, all with my right hand, shook a little powder -into my rifle, and placing the muzzle on the rag, I fired, when it began -to burn immediately. Blowing it up to a flame, I piled on dry leaves, -twigs, &c., and succeeded in making a good fire, though with great pain -and trouble. It was now dark. I went to my dead comrade, who was lying -about five yards from the fire. He was already stiff, and it was with -great difficulty that I could pull down his arms and lay him straight; -nor could I keep his eyes closed, though I laid small stones on them.</p> - -<p>The dogs were very hungry, but as it was impossible for me to break up -the bear, I only ripped him up, and fed them with his entrails. -Bearsgrease laid himself down by the corpse, looking steadfastly in its -face, and went no more near the bear. In the hope of obtaining help, I -loaded and fired twice, but nothing moved: the forest appeared one -enormous grave.</p> - -<p>I felt very ill, vomited several times, and my shoulder was excessively -painful. Winding my blanket round me as well as I could, I laid myself -down beside the fire, and lost all consciousness of my wretched -situation; whether I slept or fainted is more than I can tell, but I -know that I dreamed I was at home, in bed, and my mother brought me some -tea and laid her hand on my breast; I heard the children in the street -making a noise, and saw the snow on the roofs of the houses, and thought -it must be very cold out of doors.</p> - -<p>Such an awakening as I had was worse than I could<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_343" id="page_343"></a>{343}</span> wish to my bitterest -enemy. Bearsgrease had pressed close to my side, laying his head on my -breast; the fire was almost out, I was shivering with cold, and the -wolves were howling fearfully around the dead, keeping at a distance for -fear of the living, but by no means disposed to lose their prey. I rose -with difficulty, and laid more wood on the fire. As it burnt up, the -face of the corpse seemed to brighten. I started, but found it was only -an optical delusion. Louder and fiercer howled the wolves, and the dogs, -of whom five were alive besides Bearsgrease, answered them; but the -answer was by no means one of defiance—rather a lament for the dead. -Partly to scare away the wolves, partly in the hope of finding help, I -loaded and fired three times; my delight was inexpressible as I heard -three shots in return. I loaded and fired till all my powder was -expended. As morning broke, I heard two shots not far off, and soon -after, a third. A shipwrecked mariner, hanging on to a single plank, -could not raise his voice more lustily to hail a passing ship, than I -did then—and, joy upon joy, I heard a human voice in answer. The bark -of the dogs announced a stranger, and Wachiga advanced out of the bush. -“Wah!” he exclaimed, starting at the shocking spectacle. He felt poor -Erskine, and shook his head mournfully. He then turned to me. I showed -him my swollen arm, which he examined attentively, without speaking. -Forming a hollow with his two hands, and placing them to his lips, he -gave a loud piercing shout. The answer came from no great distance, and -in a few minutes my dear old Conwell, and most of the Indians, were at -my side. I grasped Conwell’s hand sorrowfully,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_344" id="page_344"></a>{344}</span> and told him in few -words how it had all happened. The old man scolded, and said it served -us right; there was no great danger in sticking a knife into a bear’s -paunch, when he is falling, with the dogs upon him, but if he has been -thrown, and then catches sight of his greatest enemy, man, he exerts all -his force to attack him, and woe to him who comes within reach of his -paws. It was all very well talking; he had not been present, and seen -one dog after another knocked over never to rise again; five minutes -more, and not one would have been saved, and who knows whether the -enraged beast would not have attacked us, then.</p> - -<p>Meantime, the Indians had been digging a grave with their tomahawks. -Wrapping the body in a blanket, they laid him in it, and covered him -with earth and heavy stones. Conwell cut down some young stems, and made -a fence round the solitary grave. I could not avoid a shudder at the -quiet coolness of the whole proceeding, as the thought struck me, that -the same persons, under the same circumstances, would have treated me in -the same cool way, had I fallen instead of Erskine. Like me, he was a -lonely stranger in a foreign land, having left England some years -before, and his friends and relations will probably never know what has -become of him. Thousands perish in this way in America, of whom nothing -more is heard, and perhaps in a few months the remembrance of them has -entirely passed away.</p> - -<p>After the dead was quietly laid in the grave, Wachiga came with an -elderly Indian to look at my arm. Wachiga moved it, while the other -looked steadfastly in my face: the pain was enough to drive me mad, but<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_345" id="page_345"></a>{345}</span> -I would not utter a sound. Next the old Indian took hold of my arm, -laying his left hand on my shoulder, and while Wachiga suddenly seized -me round the body from behind, the other pulled with all his force. The -pain at first was so great that I almost fainted; but it gradually -diminished; in spite of my resolve to show no signs of it, I could not -suppress a shriek. Conwell soon after asked if I could ride. On my -answering “yes,” he helped me on a horse; then throwing the bear’s skin -and some of the meat on his own, we moved slowly homewards. My -sufferings on the way were very great, but I uttered no murmur. I only -longed for repose. At nightfall we had still four miles to go. He asked -me if I could support the pain and fatigue, or if we should camp where -we were, as there was plenty of wood and water. I would rather have -ridden forty miles, let alone four, with the hope of rest at the end of -them. We arrived in about an hour. I was so stiff that I could hardly -get off the horse. On entering the room I threw myself on a bed, and had -a violent fever during the night, and talked wildly—fortunately in -German. Towards morning I began to feel better, had a quiet sleep, and -woke up about noon much refreshed. Meantime, old Conwell had related all -that had occurred, and they attended me like a son. It took two more -days before I could move out of bed and was able to stand.</p> - -<p>I was hardly so far recovered as to be able to crawl about, when Conwell -proposed another hunt, and although I had suffered so much, I could not -say “No.” On the 6th February we rode out again, but there was<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_346" id="page_346"></a>{346}</span> no -longer any life in the thing; we found the same Indians, hunted with -them a few days, shot a few deer, some turkeys, and a young bear, -returning on the 12th, Conwell with two deer-skins and some haunches, I -with a turkey.</p> - -<p>By this time my arm was quite healed. Nevertheless, I had made up my -mind to leave the mountains and go southwards, partly from a returning -fit of my old love of change, partly because I longed for news from -home, not having received any letters for several months, and partly -also because game had become so scarce through the number of hunters, -that there was hardly enough to subsist on. We heard that a party of -twelve men had been along the Richland and killed or driven away every -thing, and that during the last three days not a turkey was to be seen. -The news of game from other quarters was no better; in short there was -nothing for it but off! off! When I was once more surrounded by my old -friend’s amiable family, and passed another evening amongst them, my -resolution was indeed shaken; however, during the night I gave it mature -consideration, and in the morning I told them that I should that day -take my departure. Attempts were immediately made to dissuade me from -it, and old Conwell asked in downright earnest if I could not stay with -them always, and take the school. The present schoolmaster was ignorant -and a drunkard, and they would have been glad to be rid of him. For a -moment, indeed, but only for a moment, my fancy depicted the delights of -a home amongst the mountains, then the image of my old village -schoolmaster flashed<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_347" id="page_347"></a>{347}</span> across my mind, with his threadbare black coat, -false collars, and shirt-front, and his frame as thin as a skeleton. I -shook my head mournfully. He changed his plan, and proposed that I -should take a farm. But that I had also reflected on: I was too poor, -and although the kind people would have done every thing in their power -to help me, I should have been too dependent; for although much is not -required to set up farming in America, still there must be something, -and it does not look well for the beginner to be always borrowing horse -or plow, axe, spade, saw—in short, every farming and household utensil, -until at last the most patient man would be worn out, and everybody -would be alarmed the moment they saw the borrower coming. I was once -witness of such a beginning: a family that came to the forest without -any means, were at first most liberally assisted by their neighbors; -they helped them with their fences, in building their house, in clearing -and ploughing the land, and lent them every thing, even to flour and -pork; but how could people who began thus ever become independent? It -took years before they could procure the most necessary articles for -themselves.</p> - -<p>My old friend acknowledged the truth of the picture, and my journey was -settled for the morrow.</p> - -<p>My store of bears’ fat and skins was not so large but that I could pack -it on one horse, for the greater part of the skins, which had been -exposed to the wet weather, were spoiled. The skins were made up into -two bundles, one on each side of the horse, while a deer-skin sack, -containing about eight gallons of bears’ fat, lay across the pommel. One -of Conwell’s sons, who<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_348" id="page_348"></a>{348}</span> had his father’s booty to dispose of, -accompanied me, and thus on the following morning we set off for the -little town of Ozark on the Arkansas.</p> - -<p>I was very sorrowful on leaving this place, where the kind treatment of -these good people had so completely gained my affections, and I was -obliged to cut short my leave-taking to hide my emotions.</p> - -<p>Another grief that weighed heavily on my heart was parting with my -faithful dog. Intending to give up shooting, and to proceed to New -Orleans, and uncertain under what circumstances I might arrive there, I -would not willingly expose the noble creature, who promised to turn out -remarkably well, to become a mere mud-scraper in the streets. Moreover, -my old comrade had become attached to him, and requested to have him, -while my fair friends promised to take good care of him. So they tied -him up, and as I was about to ride off, and he found he was not to go -with me, he looked so entreating and affectionate with his intelligent -eyes, that I was obliged to turn away to hide my tears.</p> - -<p>My companion exerted himself to chase away my mournful thoughts, telling -all sorts of droll stories as we rode through the forest; and at length -I made an attempt at least to appear cheerful.</p> - -<p>In the afternoon we reached a tavern, which was also a store, not far -from the town. Here we disposed of our goods, though to no great -advantage, and, according to the custom, as whiskey was not sold by the -glass, we ordered a quart, and sat down in a corner to discuss a portion -of it. We found here two other men, dressed as hunters, who were playing -cards before the door,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_349" id="page_349"></a>{349}</span> sitting on the trunk of a tree; a third leaning -against the house, was fast asleep; his features seemed familiar to me, -but I could not recollect where I had seen him, till one of the -card-players caught my eye, and held out his hand, asking if I did not -remember Bahren’s wretched steel mill at which we had been grinding -together. This recalled the whole scene to my memory, as well as the -sleeper—I had left him sleeping, and he was still asleep.</p> - -<p>As young Conwell had finished his business, and could not remain any -longer, because he wished to stop at a house which stood some miles on -his road home, we took a hearty leave of each other, when he mounted and -soon disappeared in the forest, driving before him my horse and a -pack-horse he had brought with him.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/p349i_sml.jpg" width="44" height="47" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_350" id="page_350"></a>{350}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XI" id="CHAPTER_XI"></a>CHAPTER XI.</h2> - -<p class="chead">A FATAL BRAWL—RETURN TO LITTLE ROCK—SUMMARY JUSTICE—DOWN SOUTH.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Drunken brawl at a whiskey-shop, and its lamentable -consequences—Little Rock and its vicinity—Shooting at the “salt -licks”—Justice in the backwoods—Summary proceedings against -horse-stealers—Curing skins—The dreams of dogs—Departure for New -Orleans—The 4th of July.</p></div> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">The</span> two hunters had finished their game, and were sitting with me over -the whiskey, conversing about old times, when six more arrived, dressed -like ourselves with leggings and moccasins, armed with rifles and -knives; they brought several empty bottles, which they caused to be -replenished, and they all seemed to be in a fair way of getting drunk. -As they were rolling about, one of them tumbled over the feet of the -sleeper, who just mumbled some indistinct words, and fell off again. -This seemed to afford them much amusement, and they began to tickle him -under the nose with blades of grass, laughing immoderately at the faces -he made. The two other young Americans told them very civilly to leave -off, alleging that the sleeper was their friend, that his sleepiness was -a disease which he could not help, and begging them to leave him in -peace. A scornful burst of loud laughter was the answer. They said they -could and would do as they chose, and one of them had the goodness to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_351" id="page_351"></a>{351}</span> -say, that he could eat us up altogether. My blood was already on the -boil. Still it was clearly no business of mine; a somewhat ruder -practical joke at length awoke the sleeper, who was a strong-built man. -He was still the butt of their wit, while yawning and stretching his -limbs, till suddenly on looking round on the circle, he seemed to catch -a glimmering of what had taken place. His yawning was checked, and -looking round attentively, he listened to their remarks, when the -greatest braggart amongst them stepped up to him, and laughing in his -face, wished him a good morning; in another instant, he lay bleeding on -the ground from a blow of the sleeper’s fist. This was the signal for a -general row, and nine blades glittered in the rays of the setting sun. -My knife was out as quickly as any of the others, and we had a regular -hand-to-hand combat; as long as I live I hope never to see such another. -It all passed so quickly, that I can only recollect that I defended -myself against two tall fellows, that my left hand pained me much, and -that one of my opponents uttered a loud cry. At this instant a shot was -heard, and one of the strangers reeled and fell; it acted like an -electric stroke on both parties; all the knives were lowered, and every -one appeared to be interested about the wounded man. The sleeper lost no -time in throwing himself on his horse, which was tied up at the gate, -and soon vanished in the forest. All were sobered in an instant, yet no -one thought of giving chase; all were intent on endeavoring to save the -wounded man. But in vain; as the sun sank behind a range of red clouds -he breathed his last.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_352" id="page_352"></a>{352}</span></p> - -<p>The two other Americans now beckoned to me to follow them; and not -knowing whether the friends of the fallen man might not avenge -themselves in secret, they mounted, and one of them taking me up behind -him, we started at a gallop along a narrow path leading into the -interior, following the distinct hoof-marks of the fugitive’s horse. We -halted at dark and made a fire; setting off again at daybreak, we soon -arrived at the burnt-out fire of our comrade, who was again peaceably -sleeping unconcerned about any pursuit. Yet he must have thought one -probable; for a cocked pistol lay by his side, although his morbid -drowsiness had got the better of his fears.</p> - -<p>I gently removed the pistol for fear of accident, and awoke him. I had -hardly touched his shoulder when he made a grasp at the vacant place; -but he soon recognized us, and we made him understand that this was not -the best place to sleep in undisturbed. He admitted that himself; a -hasty breakfast was devoured, and we took time to wash our hands from -human blood, partly our own, partly that of others. My left hand, which -I had hastily bound up the night before, began to be very painful; I had -received a thrust through the palm, and the sinews were exposed. Laying -wood-ashes on the wound I bandaged it again. I had also received a -slight cut on the left side. All the others were more or less hurt; -indeed, I seemed to have come off the best.</p> - -<p>After breakfast, we left the path and struck into the forest, by no -means following my intended direction to the south-west; so I took a -friendly leave of the three men, turned to the right, and soon lost<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_353" id="page_353"></a>{353}</span> -sight of them. I have never seen them since, and do not even know their -names, nor they mine, though we fought side by side, and fled together. -Chance had thrown us into each other’s society, common interest had -united us for a moment, and now each went his way, caring neither who -the other might be, nor what his occupation; a true picture of American -life.</p> - -<p>I was again alone, and on foot, and could only make short journeys, as -my hand was very painful, and the wound in my side, though not deep, -began to suppurate. Lounging slowly on, and keeping my direction as well -as I could, I followed the course of a small stream, and was looking out -for a convenient place to camp for the night, when I observed a young -buck feeding, without the slightest suspicion of the approach of any -being likely to disturb his peace. He passed away in the same happy -thought, for my ball pierced his brain. On pulling out my knife to break -him up, I could not avoid a shudder on observing the dark stains of -blood—of human blood. I washed it carefully, for I could not bear the -sight.</p> - -<p>I did not take the trouble to skin the deer; in fact, I could not with -my wounded hand. So, taking the liver and kidneys, with part of the -back, I made a good fire, and soon lay stretched before it enveloped in -my blanket, with my body, but not my mind in repose.</p> - -<p>I lay for a long time staring at the burning embers, recalling my former -life, and forming gloomy pictures of the future; at last I fell asleep -from fatigue. A<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_354" id="page_354"></a>{354}</span> penetrating icy feeling awoke me; it was raining hard; -the fire was out; all was dark, and the present was not calculated to -sweeten the past. I pulled my wet blanket closer around me, and in the -depths of my wretchedness, abused all the four elements, with the wind -and rain into the bargain. Day came at last. Your dweller in towns, when -he rises out of his warm bed, and hears the rain beat against the -window, looks down for a minute or two on the people hurrying along in -the street, pitying those who are driven out in such unpleasant weather -by business or necessity; then turns carelessly to his breakfast, -growling perhaps because he has let his tea or coffee get cold, and at -last throws himself on a sofa. How different the case with the -backwoodsman! Unrolling himself from his wet blanket, shaking his wet -hair, shivering with cold, devouring a morsel of cold, wet venison, not -as a dainty, but to satisfy hunger; then wringing his blanket, and -laying another piece of venison in its folds, he hangs it on his back, -and continues his journey through the cold, wet forest; the lock of his -rifle, and the inside of the powder-horn, being the only dry things -about the whole man. How various the course of things in this world. The -cold and wet had inflamed and swelled my hand, which pained me much; I -cut a long strip from the skin of the deer’s back, and made a sling of -it for my arm, packed my other things over my shoulder, grasped my -rifle, and wandered along under the dripping trees, turning my back on -the cold wind and rain.</p> - -<p>As the day advanced, I became less dissatisfied with my fate and with -the weather. I was indifferent to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_355" id="page_355"></a>{355}</span> both, and could even laugh when a -bush knocked my cap off, and cast it into a pool, while the wet branches -slapped my face. At length the rain ceased; a cold wind arose and dried -my upper garments, though my leggings still flapped disagreeably about -my feet. My course was directed towards Little Rock, without knowing -exactly what I was to do there. I was desirous of revisiting New -Orleans, yet did not like leaving the woods; so I walked on, trusting to -my good luck, and leaving the rest to chance. Fortunately, I reached a -house this evening, and obtained a good bandage for my wound and a dry -couch.</p> - -<p>On the 27th February I arrived at Slowtrap’s, who gave me a hearty -welcome; but I only stopped one night, and crossed the river to -Kelfer’s, who also received me kindly. Still I could not remain quiet, -and in a few days I continued my journey to Little Rock.</p> - -<p>Little Rock is, without any flattery, one of the dullest towns in the -United States; and I would not have remained two hours in the place, if -I had not met with some good friends, who made me forget its dreariness. -Several Germans have settled here, some of whom are doing very well; -many of them have good and prosperous farms in the neighborhood. The -land above the town is as dry and barren as it can well be; but on the -other side of the Arkansas, and at a short distance from the town, it is -of the finest quality. On the north of the town, with the exception of -the valley of the Arkansas, there is little except pine woods growing in -a stony soil.</p> - -<p>I made some excursions in the neighborhood, formed an acquaintance with -a young American with a German<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_356" id="page_356"></a>{356}</span> wife, and was their guest for some time, -employing myself in looking out for turkeys, but with little success; -the mosquitoes in the various bayous or lagoons were so numerous as -almost to drive any man mad, who camped out in the open air. I remained -for some weeks, in spite of them, but if I had stayed any longer, I fear -I should have given up shooting for ever.</p> - -<p>My hunting shirt was in rags, and only held together by my belt; and as -deer skins were now in a good state for dressing, I made up my mind to -return to the Fourche le Fave, and shoot at the salt licks, till I had -skins enough to make a good hunting shirt; intending to dress the skins -myself for the purpose.</p> - -<p>Not finding any letters, I gave up the idea of going to New Orleans, and -started for the Fourche le Fave towards the end of April. I gained my -old shooting ground on the second day, and leaving the frequented paths, -struck through the forest to a lick, where I had killed several deer the -year before, and where I hoped to find the platform I had erected, still -in its place. I reached the spot just before sunset, and hastened to -collect and split wood, and by working hard I managed to get enough -before dark;—for the twilight is very short in this latitude. I then -set to work on the stand, to raise one side which had given way: most of -the earth remained on the platform, but on putting my shoulder to it, -and exerting all my force, I succeeded in raising it to its old -position. The effort, however, had been too much for my strength; I had -tasted nothing since the previous evening, having taken no food with me; -nor had I seen any game on the way; the long march, the hard work of -hauling and splitting wood, the fatigue<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_357" id="page_357"></a>{357}</span> and exhaustion overpowered me, -and I fell fainting or at least senseless to the ground. How long I may -have remained so, I cannot say. When I recovered my senses, it was quite -dark. I got up to collect myself and consider where I was, when I heard -a deer, which had got scent of me, spring, blowing and snorting, out of -the lick, and bound away over the dry leaves.</p> - -<p>I went, in the first place, to a running stream, close by, and took a -long hearty draught. Feeling considerably refreshed, I made a fire on -the platform, and sat underneath, wrapped in my blanket, patiently -awaiting the approach of game. In less than an hour a young buck -advanced with light and cautious tread. I heard him for ten minutes on -the dry rustling leaves, before he came within sight. When he appeared, -he was about forty paces off, so that I could distinguish the outline of -his form, as he stood still staring at the fire, his eyes shining like -two stars out of the dark background. He cautiously advanced a few -steps, coming nearer the lick, and looking almost white in the light of -the fire. I whistled: he stopped and raised his head; my ball passed -through both shoulder blades, and he died without a cry.</p> - -<p>Transgressing all the rules of the craft, I neither reloaded nor -remained quiet in my place to await a second; but rushed out, dragged -him to the fire, broke him up, and in a very few minutes, portions of -him were put down to roast. I then reloaded, and kept a sharp look-out. -Probably the smell of roasting meat kept others away; for though I heard -snorting and stamping, I saw no more for the present—but my stomach -could not hold out any longer.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_358" id="page_358"></a>{358}</span></p> - -<p>Refreshed and strengthened by the food, I stirred the fire to a bright -glow, and, again on good terms with myself and the whole world, I sat -patient and watchful under the towering flames. Nothing stirred till -about one in the morning, when I again heard a light measured step, and -a doe appeared coming straight towards me. She had not the slightest -suspicion of danger, but stood staring at the fire with clear shining -eyes, hardly six paces from the stand. She was with young; still I must -have a hunting shirt, and I had raised the death-dealing tube, when -three more deer arrived on the scene, one of them a fine buck. They -passed round the lick, and then stopped about ten or eleven paces behind -the doe, who never once moved from her place. Turning the rifle a little -aside, I fired at the buck, who bounded high in the air and fell dead, -the doe flying off like the wind. She was so close that she must have -been singed by the powder.</p> - -<p>Deathlike stillness again prevailed. I was nodding a little, but waking -up suddenly and looking before me, I saw two glowing eyes shining -through the darkness, and soon afterwards descried the whole form of a -deer. He came straight towards me, stood for a moment, turned a little -aside, and disappeared after the crack of the rifle. I gave myself no -concern about him, but reloaded and watched for more. Whip-poor-will had -already begun his monotonous song, which regularly resounds through the -woods shortly before the first gleam of day, when I again heard the -measured tread of a deer on the dry leaves, and he received my ball just -as the gray dawn was appearing. As it grew lighter I found him lying -dead on his<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_359" id="page_359"></a>{359}</span> tracks. The third, which I had fired at, had left no signs; -so assuming that I had missed him, I made no attempt to seek him, but -set to work to skin the others. When this was done, I hung them up, and -proceeded to a farmer’s about two miles off, with whom I was well -acquainted, to tell him to take the meat; and then went on some miles -further to Kelfer’s, who received me hospitably, and in whose house I -rested for a few days.</p> - -<p>Hearing of another lick which was said to be very good, I resorted -thither the same evening, and was soon ensconced under a hastily -prepared platform.</p> - -<p>The woods in Arkansas present a beautiful aspect at this season of the -year, when the logwood trees are in bloom. They are small bush-like -trees, seldom more than seven inches in diameter, with a white blossom -of the size of a rose; but the whole tree is covered with them. They -grow in immense numbers, and give the forest the appearance of a garden. -Then the mild spring nights, the wailing note of the whip-poor-will, the -monotonous hooting of the owls, would make it altogether romantic, were -the infernal mosquitoes only away.</p> - -<p>I shot two deer during the night, took out their brains, and laid them -about half an inch thick on a flat stone, placed it near the fire, and -kept stirring them, to preserve them for dressing the skins.</p> - -<p>Imagining that I had skins enough, I took them, as soon as they were -dry, to old Slowtrap’s, as he was celebrated for understanding the -curing business thoroughly. In a few days I was seated in the well-known -chimney corner opposite my old friend, who was the same as<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_360" id="page_360"></a>{360}</span> usual, had -on the same shabby old black coat with the same eventful buttons behind, -and as usual he was roasting potatoes in the hot ashes. I made no long -preface, and next morning found me hard at work, scraping off the hair -with a knife which I had prepared for the purpose. Finding that I had -not preserved a sufficiency of brains, I was obliged to go out shooting -again, and Hogarth, who lived near, was willing to accompany me for a -few days.</p> - -<p>Just as we were about to start on the following morning, five horsemen -drew up before the door. They dismounted, and Hogarth asked them to -breakfast, though we had just finished. After breakfast, as they saw -that we were ready to start, one of them asked us not to go shooting -to-day, but to go with them, as they were on their way to execute an act -of justice. The case was this: Some time since had settled on the banks -of the little river, a set of men who were found to be rather too fond -of horseflesh, without inquiring particularly to whom the horses -belonged. They lived scattered over a district of about twenty miles in -circumference, and almost conclusive proofs of horse-stealing were -brought against two of these people, though the evidence was not strong -enough for proceedings against them in a court of justice, where they -could have an advocate, a being for whom all backwoodsmen entertain a -profound respect. Therefore to make short work of the matter, they had -decided on taking the law into their own hands. A man of the name of -Brogan and my poor Curly were the two victims.</p> - -<p>Hogarth was ready at once. I resolved to go as a spectator, fully -resolved to take no part in the proceedings.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_361" id="page_361"></a>{361}</span> We were soon off, and -overtook the poor fellows, bound, and led between two horses. Curly was -very dejected; Brogan looked savage and desperate. When we arrived at -the rendezvous, we found a much more numerous assembly than we had -expected, there being about sixty persons present. The jury was chosen, -witnesses were brought forward, sworn, and questioned, and all the -proceedings were carried on according to the regular forms of a court of -justice. It came out that Brogan had been absent for some time during -the preceding year—that the two horses in question had been seen in the -neighborhood of these two men, in a certain place where the forest was -very thick—and that Brogan was always hanging about there. Later, Curly -had made use of one of these horses, and then sold him; the proofs were -convincing enough, yet they both steadfastly denied all the facts.</p> - -<p>Two men now stripped Curly of his upper garments, tied him up to a tree, -and began to belabor his back with hickory sticks. Curly had sense -enough to see that if his head remained obstinate, his back would have -to pay the score; so he offered to confess. He was instantly cast loose, -and the register of his sins was soon unfolded. He stated that he -himself had never stolen any horse, but had acted as receiver, or as he -said, had been good-natured towards the thieves. When the last horse was -to be stolen, four of them had been present, and it was agreed that he -was to be carried off and sold. But as one of them must first steal him, -it was left to sportsman’s luck to decide. He, who by a certain day, had -shot fewest deer, should undertake the risk of stealing the horse. Curly -had<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_362" id="page_362"></a>{362}</span> killed four, by the day named, the other two had shot two each, -Brogan only one. He concluded by giving the names of all the -horse-stealers, twenty-six in number, and well-known names, having the -modesty to leave out his own.</p> - -<p>Brogan, who had listened to it all with a contemptuous smile, was now -questioned; all attempts to make him confess were in vain; he denied -having had any share in the crime, and was tied up to a tree and -dreadfully beaten. It was a horrible sight. At first he gave vent to -volleys of oaths and abuse; then he was silent for a long time, and bore -the severe blows with wonderful firmness; at length he gave a deep -groan, and called out, “Oh, my poor wife and children.”</p> - -<p>Two negroes now made their appearance with spades and dug a grave; they -were followed by a white man with a cord in his left hand, and a piece -of tallow, with which he kept greasing the cord in his right, looking as -unconcerned as possible all the time, though he knew it was intended to -hang the poor wretch. This seemed rather too severe, and several of us -now stepped forward, and persuaded those who seemed most open to pity, -that if they had resolved to hang the man, they ought not first to have -lacerated him so dreadfully: this seemed evident to the others, so it -was put to the vote, and his life was spared on condition that he left -the country within four weeks, and never returned to it again. He made -no promise, and as he was cast off, he fell senseless on the grass.</p> - -<p>I had seen quite enough. Hogarth and I trotted off to the mountains to -think seriously about our<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_363" id="page_363"></a>{363}</span> shooting; my comrade was very pensive; I -heard afterwards that there were good reasons for it, as no slight -suspicions rested on him.</p> - -<p>As the weather was warm and pleasant, we resolved to look for bees as -well as deer; for we had each a great longing for honey. We placed the -bait in the empty shell of a tortoise, and separated in chase of deer. -Hogarth had a call with him and attempted to attract the does by -imitating the cry of their fawns; a most disgraceful practice, which is -too often indulged in. This practice is most abominable, on two -accounts: first, because it is base and cruel to lure the mother to her -destruction by imitating the cry of her young; secondly, because it so -rapidly exterminates all the game, by killing off the does, and leaving -the fawns to perish with hunger, when they are too young to find their -own nourishment. Although I scorned to adopt such a vile practice, I -shot a two-year-old buck, while Hogarth shot nothing.</p> - -<p>At nightfall, the winds seemed to break loose from all the thirty-two -points of the compass at once, to blow down all the old fir-trees in the -forest; towards midnight the storm subsided, and changed into such heavy -rain that I was obliged to cut a channel with my knife round our blanket -tent to carry off the water.</p> - -<p>On the next morning Slowtrap joined us with his own and Hogarth’s dogs, -as he wanted to find a bear which was paying rather too much attention -to his pigs. The dogs soon found the trail, and after a pretty fight, -Slowtrap knocked him over with his rifle ball, just as<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_364" id="page_364"></a>{364}</span> I was near -getting the worst of it by being too forward with my knife. We found -bees the same evening.</p> - -<p>The sun had just set, when gaining the crest of a hill, I caught sight -of a young deer quietly feeding. I raised the rifle, and was in the act -of pressing the trigger, when I saw the antlers of a very large buck, -who was walking slowly past the other, unsuspicious of harm. I had often -heard old hunters talk of the buck fever, but could never form a just -idea of the meaning of it; at this moment, however, I felt its full -effects. My anxiety to shoot the buck was so great, that I trembled in -every limb, and could not steady the rifle. At length the deer -discovered me, and raised his noble head. I knew that the decisive -moment was come, and, although the sight of the rifle quivered over his -whole form, I pulled the trigger. He gave a bound and disappeared: I -found some blood where he had been standing, but the color was not very -satisfactory, and I followed the trail in vain; he had escaped with a -slight wound.</p> - -<p>I returned to the camp out of humor;—and with reason,—I had lost three -pair of good moccasins by my bad shot, and was almost barefoot. Hogarth -and Slowtrap had killed a few deer, and saved the brains for me, and I -thought I had now enough for my skins. Next day we went after bees, and -found two trees, one of which we cut down—on which occasion I got -dreadfully stung.</p> - -<p>I now thought it time to return to my work, and was tired of going about -in shirt sleeves. I took the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_365" id="page_365"></a>{365}</span> brains which Hogarth and Slowtrap had -given me, with what I had myself collected, returned to Slowtrap’s, and -set to work in earnest with my skins. For the benefit of those who may -be interested in the subject, I will describe the Indian method of -dressing skins. They are laid in water to soak for a whole night; next -morning they are taken out, placed on a smooth board, and the hair -scraped off. This done, the brains are mixed with an equal quantity of -water in an iron pot, and rubbed well into the skins, one brain being -generally enough for one skin; the brains having previously been put in -a coarse linen bag, boiled for an hour, and then left to cool. As soon -as cool enough for the hand to bear it, they are rubbed through the bag, -giving the water a milky color, and leaving only the fibrous parts in -the bag. The skins are put into the pot, and well kneaded, so that they -may be thoroughly saturated with the mixture; then taken out, well -wrung, and hung up to dry. Before this, they must be well rubbed and -pulled across a sharp board till they are dry, as white as snow, and as -soft as velvet. Yet if they get wet they become as hard as a stone; to -prevent this, all the glutinous substance must be destroyed by smoke. -Therefore two of them are sown together in a bag, a hole is made in the -ground, about sixteen inches deep and about eight inches wide, in which -a fire is lighted. As soon as it is in a bright glow, rotten wood is -laid on to make a thick smoke, and the skins are placed over it, mouth -downwards, till they are so thoroughly penetrated by it, that they begin -to turn brown on the outside. They are then<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_366" id="page_366"></a>{366}</span> turned inside out, and the -process repeated; when finished, neither water nor sun will hurt them -more, and their color is a yellowish-brown.</p> - -<p>As soon as my skins were all properly dressed, I went to an old -backwoodsman of the name of Wallis, whose wife cut out a hunting-shirt -for me, in which she used the best part of five skins, and showed me how -to sew them. After three days of industrious tailoring, I succeeded in -producing the perfection of a hunting-shirt. I now cut out a pair of new -moccasins from the skin of an old deer, that I had dressed with the -others; took some of the bark of the black walnut tree, with a little -green vitriol, and gave my new dress the proper forest tint,—and I was -once more fitted out in the regular garb of a backwoodsman.</p> - -<p>Wallis had been a great deal amongst the Indians, and had adopted many -of their manners and customs. He was the best white hunter I ever met -with, and never failed in discovering bees, if once he came on their -traces. He had been for a long time in Texas, and extraordinary stories -were related of him during his absence; at last, news came that he was -dead. His wife, in course of time, became acquainted with another man, -who succeeded in gaining her good graces, and so she married him. One -evening, about a year after her second marriage, a horseman, dressed as -an Indian, stopped before the door, dismounted, and tied up his horse. -He entered the house, and the woman recognized, with delight and -astonishment, the husband she had mourned as dead. At the same moment, -the other returned from shooting, with the dogs, which<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_367" id="page_367"></a>{367}</span> joyfully bounded -about their old master, and he was not a little perplexed at meeting the -lawful owner of the property; but Wallis was a reasonable man, and told -his wife very gravely, that she was at liberty to take her choice -between the two, provided he might have the children, two fine boys, and -that he would give her till the morrow to decide: so saying, he -shouldered his rifle, mounted his horse, and trotted off to the forest, -where he made his fire, and camped for the night.</p> - -<p>Next day, after finishing his breakfast, he saddled his horse, and rode -back to the house, to learn how his wife had decided; he found his -representative on the point of departure, who openly acknowledged that -Wallis had the prior rights, that he should be very sorry to be a cause -of discord, excused himself for the accident, begging him not to take it -amiss, and ended by offering his hand, which the other accepted. He then -rode off to the West, to seek another wife with better luck next time. -The long separated pair lived together afterwards as happily and -contentedly as if nothing had happened; it was not necessary for him to -excuse himself for not writing, as he had never learned the art, and, -even if he had sent her a letter, she would have been in the same -difficulty as to reading it.</p> - -<p>I had long conversations with him about shooting, and he lamented very -much the decrease of game, which, as he said, had become very sensible -for some years at the Fourche le Fave, formerly the best hunting ground -in Arkansas. Among other things we talked of the dreams of dogs. When I -told him what I had<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_368" id="page_368"></a>{368}</span> heard, and what I had experienced myself, he -confirmed it, assuring me that he had tried it with the dog which was -then lying at his feet. He said: “I was stretched before the fire one -evening, and could not sleep. The dog was lying by me fatigued with his -day’s work, for we had been out the whole day; he had been for some time -snoring lightly, and now began to scramble with his feet, and to whine -and bark in a low tone; a sure sign that he was dreaming. I had heard -from my father, when I was a child, that any one might have the same -dream as a dog, if they can catch it in a handkerchief; so I spread my -neckcloth over the dog’s head, and waited in patience till he woke. At -length when he left off barking, and raised his head to shake off the -unaccustomed covering, I took the cloth, folded it up, and laying it -under my head, I was soon asleep; I dreamed that I was running after a -rabbit, with most inexplicable rage, following it through the thickest -thorn bushes, and as at last it escaped into a hole, I thrust my head -into it, and barked, and tried to scrape away the earth to get it out. I -have tried it several times since, and always with the same effect.” -Without being superstitious, I determined to take the next opportunity -of repeating the experiment.</p> - -<p>My hunting-shirt being finished, I took a kind leave of the old hunter -and his family, and returned to Slowtrap’s, with whom I remained only a -few days, notwithstanding his pressing invitation to pass the summer -there, and then proceeded to Kelfer’s. From hence I revisited the salt -licks, repaired the scaffold, collected kindlers, and passed twelve -nights successively under<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_369" id="page_369"></a>{369}</span> the fire, until the mosquitoes, and other -insects almost carried me off piecemeal; yet without getting a single -shot. I never could imagine what had driven the game all away; perhaps -it was too late in the season; I only know that I lay on the look-out -many long, long nights, listening for the tread of a deer, watched the -moon rise, follow her appointed course, and set behind the trees; -hearkened patiently to the hootings of the owls, and the complaint of -whip-poor-will, and left the place each succeeding morning, without -seeing a single head of game, to seek some cool spot to sleep in, and -await the coming night. At last, my provisions being exhausted, I was -forced to return to Kelfer’s for a fresh supply. While there I decided -on giving up the fire, and trying daylight again, when I succeeded in -killing a few fine deer. One of them was the largest I ever shot. I was -going along a mountain-side, and had just fired at and missed a young -buck that was standing behind a fallen tree, with nothing but his head -visible, when, just as I had reloaded, this splendid fellow showed -himself above me, at about fifteen paces distance. My ball knocked him -over, and I never saw fatter venison.</p> - -<p>After some time, news arrived from Little Rock, to say that letters were -awaiting me there. I was soon ready to start, intending if their -contents were favorable, to embark for the south. My few things were -easily packed up, and I now took a warm farewell of Kelfer and his -amiable family, from whom it grieved me to part. I had lived in his -house like one of his relations, and had never been treated as a -stranger; and if I ever had found a home in America, it would<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_370" id="page_370"></a>{370}</span> have been -with him; there was only one point on which we disagreed; I was -passionately fond of field sports, and he often severely blamed my -useless loitering about in the woods, seriously representing to me that -I could not go on so for ever, and that I should be forced, sooner or -later, to settle somewhere, and become a useful and reasonable member of -society. I saw clearly enough, on such occasions, that he was right, and -was often inclined to accept the brotherly offers which he made, and to -hang up the rifle, and take to the axe; but I had become too fond of the -wild unsteady life; besides, a burning desire to revisit my native land -prevented me, and my love of change was now stronger than any other -feeling; I took up my rifle, threw my luggage over my shoulder, shook -hands all round, and followed the course of the Fourche le Fave on my -way to Little Rock.</p> - -<p>On arriving at the mouth of the river, I was undecided whether I should -continue my course by land or water. Unluckily, however, I found good -shooting-ground there; so, throwing my bundle under a tree, I formed a -hut of loose bark, and began shooting again to my heart’s content.</p> - -<p>The end of June came. My provisions had latterly much diminished, as I -had shot nothing for several days, and as the meat was soon spoilt by -the heat unless it was well dried, I began to get tired of sport, and -resolved to shoot only one more deer for provision, then go to Little -Rock, take up my letters, and come to some decision as to my future -course.</p> - -<p>The intention of shooting one more deer seemed this time to be easier -conceived than executed, and I lived<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_371" id="page_371"></a>{371}</span> for two days on whortleberries, a -fruit which by no means suited my stomach. It happened one morning when -I came again on the banks of the Fourche le Fave, I saw a canoe jammed -amongst some drift-wood, which had stuck fast in the river. This suited -my purpose exactly; so, without further consideration, I swam off and -secured it, took it up to my camp, threw in all my havings and -gatherings, and gained the river Arkansas the same afternoon.</p> - -<p>Gliding smoothly along near the bank, I observed numerous signs of deer -in several places. I landed at one of them, where the ground was all -trodden down by their feet, and where there was only one narrow rocky -path, by which they could descend to drink the brackish water, that of -the Arkansas containing a considerable portion of salt. My plan was soon -formed. I was not only excessively hungry myself, but I had some friends -in Little Rock, to whom a nice piece of venison would be a treat; so, -taking my tomahawk, I soon erected a small scaffolding over the canoe, -which was all the more easily accomplished as it had been made to serve -this purpose before, holes having been bored below the gunwales to -receive the poles. Covering it with twigs and some inches of earth, I -collected kindlers from the neighboring hills, and patiently awaited the -approaching night. As soon as it was dark I lighted my fire, then leant -back, giving the reins to my fancy and gazing on the beautiful starry -sky. After a time, raising myself silently and looking towards the place -where I expected the deer, I saw a glowing eye just above the water, and -another reflected from its surface; it was a deer, which had descended -without the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_372" id="page_372"></a>{372}</span> least noise, and was eagerly drinking the brackish water, -about twenty paces from the canoe. I raised the rifle slowly, took a -careful aim and fired; loud sounded the report over the water’s surface, -returning in repeated echoes from the hills, and then all was as quiet -and silent as the grave. Taking a brand from the fire, I found a -yearling buck lying dead at a short distance from the spot where he had -been drinking. After breaking him up, I cut off no small portion to -roast, my hunger being truly painful; when this was satisfied I threw -him into the canoe, cast off from the bank, rolled myself in my blanket, -and, floating softly down the stream in the stillness of night, I -arrived at Little Rock in good condition on the following morning.</p> - -<p>I found a letter from Germany, and another from Kean in Louisiana, from -whom I had not heard for a long time; he requested me to come to him, -telling me I might easily find employment with a good salary. The -steamer “Arkansas” arrived the next day from Fort Smith, and notice was -given that on the morning of the 5th July she would start for New -Orleans. My arrangements were soon made, and not having much packing to -plague me, I passed the intervening days very happily in the society of -my friends.</p> - -<p>The 4th of July was to be celebrated as usual in Little Rock by a grand -barbecue, or banquet, at the public expense. I went to the appointed -place out of curiosity, and found a dozen black cooks, busily preparing -for the grand affair. Two trenches, about two yards long and four wide, -were dug in a garden near the town, the bottom of each was filled with -red-hot charcoal, the supply being kept up from a large fire<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_373" id="page_373"></a>{373}</span> near at -hand. Pieces of wood were laid across the trenches, and on the wood -immense quantities of meat; two halves of an ox, a number of pigs, -calves, deer, bears, sheep, &c., were roasting and stewing, while people -with bottles or jugs full of whiskey went about offering it to all -present. The meat itself was not particularly inviting, everybody going -up and cutting off what he wanted, and holding it in his hand to eat, -some standing, some walking to and fro. At a camp-fire this is all very -well, but such a multitude with greasy hands and mouths is not -attractive.</p> - -<p>I did not remain long, but returned to the town, sleeping at the house -of a German settler; and on the following morning proceeded on board the -boat, which contrary to the usual custom, was punctual to her time and -went off blustering down the river.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/p373i_sml.jpg" width="98" height="93" alt="[Image unavailable.]" /> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_374" id="page_374"></a>{374}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XII" id="CHAPTER_XII"></a>CHAPTER XII.</h2> - -<p class="chead">LOUISIANA—NEW ORLEANS, AND HOME.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">Bayou Sara—German settlers—Jews—Pointe Coupée—My engagement at -the hotel—Levées, or dams, on the banks of the Mississippi—Slave -auction—Treatment of the slaves—Guinea negroes—Alligator -shooting—Flesh of the alligator, and prejudices against it—Habits -of the alligator—Scenes on the Mississippi—New Orleans; variety -of its inhabitants—Coffee-houses—The “Olbers” clears for -Bremen—The mouth of the Mississippi—My -fellow-passengers—Sharks—Sickness and death on board—The English -channel—Bremerhafen—Quarantine—The Lübecker and his unruly -American wife—Fumigation—Arrival at home.</p></div> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">We</span> entered the Mississippi the second day, and soon left the State of -Arkansas far behind us. Of all I had seen in America it was the one -which pleased me most; I may perhaps never see it again, but I shall -never forget the happy days I passed there, where many a true heart -beats under a coarse frock or leather hunting-shirt.</p> - -<p>The boat went flying past the green banks, and on the third night, she -set me ashore at Bayou Sara, in Louisiana. It may have been about one -o’clock when I landed with my baggage. The little boat which brought me -from the steamer pushed off, flying back to the smoking Colossus. The -pilot gave the signal to go ahead, and, smoking and clattering, she soon -vanished from my sight.</p> - -<p>All was dark in the town, not a single light to be<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_375" id="page_375"></a>{375}</span> seen. Being quite a -stranger in the place, I rolled myself in my blanket and lay down on the -bank of the river. The night was warm and pleasant, but repose was out -of the question. Millions of mosquitoes were swarming furiously around, -and only left me in peace when I pulled the blanket over my head; but as -that excluded air, and I removed it to breathe, it was a signal for all -the swarm to fall upon me with renewed fury.</p> - -<p>At length the first negro bell was heard from the opposite shore, for -the negroes to turn out; soon afterwards a gleam was visible in the -east. My tormentors now attacked me like mad, and it appeared as if all -the mosquitoes in Louisiana had assembled with the intention of sucking -me dry, so as to preserve me as a specimen: I jumped up, and ran about -to baffle the attempt.</p> - -<p>Day came at last, and with it some houses were opened; amongst others a -German coffee-house. Leaving my baggage there I strolled about the -place. After lounging about for an hour, I thought it was late enough to -find out Kean, who was clerk in a merchant’s house; I soon found him, -Bayou Sara not being very large, and met with a kind reception.</p> - -<p>In the first place I had to change my costume; hunting-shirts and -leggings are excellent things in the forest, but not so well adapted to -a town, nor to the hot sun of Louisiana. Summer articles were not dear, -a number of German Jews having settled in the place, underselling each -other; for a few dollars I obtained a very respectable suit.</p> - -<p>Most of the houses of Bayou Sara are built of wood,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_376" id="page_376"></a>{376}</span> only three or four -being of brick. It may contain about 800 inhabitants, among whom are -several Germans, who are carpenters, tailors, shoemakers, sugar-bakers, -coffee-house keepers, and a large number of German Jews, who by their -low prices have managed to get the trade in ready-made clothes -completely into their own hands. German shoemakers mustered very strong; -and here I was again struck with a peculiarity which I have remarked -among all the German shoemakers in America, namely the rage they have -for selling gingerbread and sugar-plums, as well as boots and shoes.</p> - -<p>In the United States as a matter of course, every person is free to buy -and sell whatever he chooses. Therefore all sorts of wares are to be -found at all the stores. In the smaller towns, apothecaries generally -combine a trade in calicoes and hardware with that of drugs; and when a -German shoemaker opens his shop, you are sure to see some glasses with -parti-colored sugar-plums, and pieces of gingerbread in the little -window, while boots and shoes are dangling on pack-thread above them. -This was not only the case in Bayou Sara, and St. Francisville, a town -of the same size on a hill about a quarter of a mile behind Bayou Sara, -but in all the smaller towns in the United States which I had visited, -and even in some parts of the large town of Cincinnati. It is at all -events a strange medley.</p> - -<p>I passed my time very agreeably in the society of Kean, whose employers -were good kind people, until I obtained a remunerative occupation in -Pointe Coupée, a large French settlement extending twenty miles along<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_377" id="page_377"></a>{377}</span> -the opposite or western bank of the Mississippi; this office consisted -in the management of the hotel formerly kept by Rutkin, and which he had -sold before his departure; the purchaser, however, was weak and in bad -health, and had been mostly confined to his bed, leaving the hotel to -the management of another, who was driving every thing to wreck and -ruin. The purchaser’s brother seeing that it would never do to leave it -in such hands, placed me in the situation on Kean’s recommendation. -Although my present sphere of action was very different from any thing -to which I had hitherto been accustomed, I soon gained an insight into -the business, and went on very well, as I was perfectly independent, -acting on all occasions as I thought best: and I can fairly say that I -soon brought things into better order.</p> - -<p>Generally speaking, living in Pointe Coupée was much more agreeable than -in Bayou Sara, as my principal dealings were with the opulent planters -of the vicinity, amongst whom were some very pleasant people; there was -also an Irish advocate living in the hotel, who had a very extensive -practice, and we conceived a mutual friendship for each other: I shall -always look back with hearty pleasure to my acquaintance with Mr. -Beattie.</p> - -<p>The little town of the settlement, lying rather higher up the stream on -the opposite side to Bayou Sara, consists of the town-hall, the jail, -the Roman Catholic church, the priest’s house, and the hotel.</p> - -<p>As the land beyond the banks of the Mississippi, particularly in -Louisiana, is lower than the river, when the latter is very full the -settlers have been obliged to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_378" id="page_378"></a>{378}</span> throw up a dam—levée, as it is -called—which is generally from four to five feet high, but in some -places from eighteen to twenty. It costs immense sums to keep this in -repair, as the river constantly undermines it, and carries off large -masses in its wild muddy waters; moreover, it is incumbent on those -dwelling immediately on the banks to supply the means, while those -living further from the river, whose property is more liable to damage, -do not contribute any thing towards the dam; but last year there was a -discussion on the subject, and it is probable that the system will be -changed.</p> - -<p>The principal productions of Pointe Coupée are cotton, Indian Corn, and -sugar-cane. The gardens are filled with oranges, figs, peaches, and -pomegranates, with quantities of all the most beautiful flowers. One -great plague of the planters, in some parts of the settlement, for it -does not extend everywhere, is the coco-grass, somewhat similar to our -couch-grass. The roots extend from twelve to fifteen feet in the ground, -as may be seen when the river tears away a part of the bank. Where it -has once taken hold, it is very difficult to extirpate; it grows so fast -that, when cut down at night, it is again about an inch high in the -morning. It is not very good for cattle, though pigs are extremely fond -of the pods, which have a strong smell and taste of camphor.</p> - -<p>Most of the planters are French Creoles; but as several Americans live -here also, the law proceedings are carried on both in French and -English. The jailer is a poor wretched German shoemaker, and any -prisoner that has a mind gives him a cudgelling, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_379" id="page_379"></a>{379}</span> takes his leave. -Several cases of the kind occurred last year.</p> - -<p>The system of slavery makes a very disagreeable impression upon those -who are unaccustomed to it; and although I had long dwelt in slave -States, and witnessed the oppressed condition and ill-treatment of the -poor blacks, yet the horrors of the system were never so evident as when -I first attended an auction, where slaves were sold like cattle to the -highest bidder, and the poor creatures stood trembling, following the -bidders with anxious eyes, in order to judge in advance whether they -were to belong to a kind or severe master. It does not happen so often -now as formerly that families are separated, at least mothers and -children, so long as the latter are very young. In large auctions, the -law has the humanity to decree that families are only to be sold -together; but individuals are often sold, and then the most sacred ties -are torn asunder for the sake of a few hundred dollars.</p> - -<p>I have witnessed most heart-breaking scenes on such occasions. At the -same time, I must admit that the treatment of slaves is generally better -than it is represented by the Abolitionists and missionaries. It is to -the advantage of the owner to keep his slaves healthy and fit for work, -and not to overtax their strength, as he is bound to support them in -their old age. Their food generally is not worse than that of the poor -man in other lands. Though there are instances of rich planters treating -their slaves most shamefully, there are others where they are treated as -part of the family. In our hotel, we had a cook, chambermaid, and -porter, all slaves, who never had occasion to complain of -ill-treatment.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_380" id="page_380"></a>{380}</span> A negro, or descendant of a negro, is not allowed to -quit the place of his abode without a pass from his master, while the -free negro must always have his papers about him. If a slave is found -without a pass, he is imprisoned until his master claims him, and pays -the expenses. Fugitive slaves frequently take refuge in the forests; and -I remember how, in Tennessee, large parties used to go out to surround -them, and recover possession of them. Although the law speaks in strong -language against the importation of fresh negroes, yet I saw several -slaves who had been brought over from Africa, and who were called Guinea -negroes, to distinguish them from those born in America. The education -of the poor blacks is strictly forbidden, for fear they should write -their own passes, and thus escape. They are kept for use and increase -like domestic animals; and yet these United States have this sentence in -their declaration of independence: “that all men are free and equal!”</p> - -<p>In the towns the Methodist preachers have driven what little -understanding nature has given them, out of the poor blacks’ heads, -teaching them to jump and shout, to thank God for being afflicted, and -to kiss the rod that chastises them. They kiss it, indeed, but leave the -marks of their teeth behind; and when they dare not openly oppose the -tyranny of the whites, they do so in secret, and many of the hated race -fall by the hand of the oppressed. Examples of this kind are frequent; -and although the punishment which the negro has to expect for raising -his hand against a white is appalling, it does not prevent the deed, but -only makes the doer more cautious.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_381" id="page_381"></a>{381}</span></p> - -<p>My present occupation did not allow much time for amusement, though now -and then I got some duck-shooting in winter, when the ducks come in -myriads from the north to this milder climate, where ice is very seldom -seen on the lakes and standing pools, and snow was not seen during the -whole winter. Snipe-shooting commenced early in spring, and I followed -it up with great eagerness. It is a very different affair here from what -it is in Europe; you go out in the evening, and shoot them by -torchlight, when, of course, you must have a very small charge, as they -approach within ten yards, often within five or six. The negro, who is -not allowed to carry a gun without permission from his master, goes out -with a torch, and a small bushy bough of a tree, to knock them down. -There are two sorts, both smaller than ours, and they occur in such -numbers, that in two hours I have often killed from eighteen to twenty. -During the day they remain among the thick reeds and in the marshes, and -in the evening flock to the meadows and cotton fields. They are delicate -eating, and more tender than the European variety. As the weather gets -hotter, they fly off to the north.</p> - -<p>The spring in Louisiana is enchantingly beautiful. All the grasses and -flowers springing out of the ground, all the buds and blossoms on the -trees, fill the beholder with rapture: the gray silvery-haired moss -dangling from the trees, giving them such a mournful appearance in -winter, now added to the beauty of the scene; assuming a more lively -color itself, it looked a transparent silvery veil thrown over the -blossoms and fresh green of the leaves. The long slender cypresses shone -to the greatest advantage under such a veil. All sorts<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_382" id="page_382"></a>{382}</span> of birds are now -to be seen; among them numbers of the mocking-bird, sometimes called the -American nightingale, warble sweetly, especially at night.</p> - -<p>As usual in all the plantations in Louisiana, several China-trees stood -before my house, for shade as well as for ornament. One of them was an -old patriarch, whose branches spread far and wide, and which had been -used as a summer-house by the former proprietor, who had had a flight of -stairs built up to it, and fixed a round table, with several seats. In -this tree my hammock was slung between two branches, with a mosquito net -spread over it;—for these amiable little creatures were again beginning -their wicked tricks; and I slept in the warm night wind, among the -blossoms of the tree, which have something of the perfume of the -heliotrope, surrounded by fire-flies, lulled by the notes of the -mocking-bird, and by the rushing sound of the mighty Mississippi, -flowing about twenty paces from the tree.</p> - -<p>The heat in May, especially in the middle of the day, was oppressive; -but when the other whites had retired to take their siesta, I went with -my rifle and harpoon to the swamps, at a short distance from the river, -to shoot alligators, which are to be found in incredible numbers, in the -warm standing pools. What dreadful statements have been written about -the formidable nature of these animals, and their fierce attacks on man! -I have always found them gentle, harmless creatures, and was very active -in shooting them. However, as I lost those I had shot, by their swimming -a little way and then sinking, I took a harpoon with a twenty-feet line, -and, going up to the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_383" id="page_383"></a>{383}</span> waist in water, I placed myself under one of the -many cypresses standing in the swamps, and awaited their approach, as -they swam about slowly in the glowing mid-day heat, or sunned themselves -on the bank. If one came within twelve or fifteen yards, I was sure of -him. The best sport was when he was a great powerful fellow, and I -pulled one way as he pulled the other. But as standing in the terrible -heat of the sun did not suit me, I resolved to try torchlight, -particularly as many of the Creoles told me that no one had ever -attempted to shoot them by the light of a fire, it being supposed that -the alligator was bolder and more dangerous at night. So, on the next -evening, I went to the place with rifle, fire-pan, harpoon, and -kindlers. The sight from the banks of the swamp was enchanting, and made -me endure even mosquito bites with patience. The dark surface of the -water, the immense cypresses standing in it, their moss waving in the -night wind, the dark surrounding forest, the hooting of the owls, the -melancholy croak of the bull-frog, I had long been accustomed to; but -all in the water was wild commotion, and, when holding the flame behind -me, the shadow of my head was cast upon the flood, hundreds of glowing -eyes shone from all parts of it like balls of red-hot iron. As I had -only one hand free, I could not hold the rifle and harpoon at the same -time; so I fired at the head of the nearest, dropped the rifle, seized -the harpoon, darted it into the animal at the distance of six or seven -yards, and drew it by the line to the bank. I had secured two in this -way, when I saw a pair of larger eyes coming straight towards me; I -fired as before, and darted<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_384" id="page_384"></a>{384}</span> the harpoon into the wounded animal, as he -turned and showed the white of his belly. At the instant of darting the -harpoon, I was standing close to the edge of the water, with the end of -the line fastened to my right wrist. The alligator had hardly felt the -barbed iron, when he darted off and dived, jerking me into the water -before I had time to hold back. The pan fell out of my hand, and the -fire was extinguished with a loud hiss. The line was too securely -fastened for me to free myself, and I was twice dragged under water -before I felt firm bottom, when, holding back with all my might, I -succeeded in stopping him, he being somewhat exhausted by his exertions -and loss of blood; then pulling slowly and cautiously towards the bank, -gradually increasing the strain, he collected his remaining strength, -and darted off, dragging me head under again; but the water was not more -than four feet deep, and this time I had less trouble in hauling the -weakened animal to the shore.</p> - -<p>Wet through and through, and in total darkness, I had fortunately left -my matches, with the split wood, at the foot of a tree. I groped for and -found my pan, and in a few minutes another bright flame rose flickering -to the sky. The large alligator was about ten feet long, and I could -make no use of him; for although the planters use the fat for their -cotton machinery, for which it is well adapted, it was too old to be -eatable; the two first caught were three and four feet long; I cut off -their tails, and carried them home to eat.</p> - -<p>Very few of the Creoles, or even the negroes, will eat the flesh of the -alligator, partly because they feel disgust at it, and partly because -they fancy it to be<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_385" id="page_385"></a>{385}</span> poisonous; but I found it excellent, and never -experienced any bad consequences. It is white and firm, and looks and -tastes like fish, but the tail must be cut off immediately, and the -back-bone taken out, or it acquires the musty smell peculiar to these -animals.</p> - -<p>After this, I always took a companion with me, and when one had fired, -the other harpooned, which made the work easier. However fearful the -alligators may be of white men, it is extraordinary how furiously they -will attack negroes and dogs, particularly the latter. I was standing -one afternoon, harpoon in hand, up to the waist in water, and although -plenty of alligators were swimming about, none of them would come close -enough, when, acting on the impulse of the moment, I attempted to -attract them by imitating the bark of a dog;—fifteen or sixteen big -fellows came straight towards me, as soon as they heard it! This was too -much of a good thing: standing so deep in water, I was hardly master of -my movements, and began to step out as fast as possible for the shore, -about a hundred feet distant; I then recommenced my bark, but as I was -fully exposed to view, they were afraid of coming close, though they -kept swimming round at a respectable distance.</p> - -<p>The predominant religion in Louisiana is the Roman Catholic, with this -difference in the arrangements, that the priest is chosen by the -congregation, and the bishop has nothing to say in the matter. Some time -since, the people had dismissed their priest, being dissatisfied with -him; but, as he had been invested by the bishop, he maintained that the -bishop alone could remove him, and taking Mr. Beattie for his advocate, -he indicted<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_386" id="page_386"></a>{386}</span> his flock. Mr. Beattie gained his cause at the half-yearly -sessions, but the parish appealed to the court of the United States at -New Orleans. The priest repaired thither, took a new advocate, and -obtained the following sentence: “That the citizens of Pointe Coupée -might dismiss their priest, if they were dissatisfied with him, and that -neither bishop nor pope could issue commands in the United States.”</p> - -<p>It was about the end of June, when I made up my mind to return to -Germany. Kean had been for some time in New Orleans, engaged in -commission business, and I began to feel lonely in Pointe Coupée. I -therefore arranged my affairs, and prevailed on a brother of the -proprietor, who had formerly been in partnership with him, to undertake -the management, now that all was in good order; then, taking a kind -leave of all my good friends, I left Pointe Coupée on the 5th of -July—the same day that I had left Little Rock the year before.</p> - -<p>I embarked on board the Steamer “Eclipse” for New Orleans, and dashed -down the swollen stream with the speed of an arrow. The banks of the -Mississippi, in the lower part of Louisiana, offer a most beautiful -panorama of towns and plantations, to the eyes of the passenger flying -past in a steamer; the country-seats of the planters make a splendid -appearance through the orange and pomegranate trees, with the rows of -white cottages for the slaves, like so many villages, besides large -cotton fields and sugar plantations, with gangs of negroes at work, -under the inspection of a white on horseback; troops of mustangs, or -ponies, galloping with flowing manes and tails, small schooners, and -so-called chicken thieves dashing with swelling<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_387" id="page_387"></a>{387}</span> tails along the shores, -give the whole an animated aspect. At present, however, it did not look -everywhere so agreeable; the river had risen considerably, and in many -places broken through the levée, laying a number of cotton fields and -sugar plantations under water, and giving the landscape a wild and -desolate look.</p> - -<p>On the following morning, about nine o’clock, we approached the emporium -of the south, and a multitude of boats, barges, schooners, brigs, and -even ships lying above the town, gave evidence of the busy turmoil of an -immense commercial place. We had about forty head of oxen on board, -which had been brought from St. Louis, to be landed at Lafayette, a -suburb of New Orleans. The steamer was stopped near the shore, and the -oxen and cows bundled overboard to swim to land. This done, the engine -was set going, and passing shipping of all sorts and nations, we landed -about ten o’clock, among about sixty other steamers, on the levée of New -Orleans.</p> - -<p>I found Kean immediately, and accompanied him to the hotel where he -lodged, left my things there, and lounged about the town with him, -talking of bygone times. The heat was oppressive, and we were soon -obliged to take shelter in the house to escape the scorching rays of the -sun. In the evening we drove to Lafayette, where several Bremen vessels -were lying, to have a look at them, and inquire their times of -departure. We found two bound for Bremen, but the time of departure -uncertain, and I saw that I should have to remain some time in New -Orleans.</p> - -<p>The town had increased very much since my former<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_388" id="page_388"></a>{388}</span> visit, and was -improved in its appearance. It extends above seven miles along the bank -of the river, where it is interesting to observe all sorts of shipping, -steamers and sailing vessels arriving or departing every hour of the -day. In other respects the town offers nothing noticeable beyond -straight handsome streets, with large clean looking houses, and -tastefully ornamented shops. It is still more interesting to observe the -people, who throng the streets in all, even the hottest, hours of the -day, where every shade between white and black is to be seen. The spot -most attractive to me was the lower market, close to the levée, where -every kind of article to be found in America was for sale. The fruit -stalls looked especially inviting, and so did the fish-stalls, where -great varieties of fish were to be seen. In the midst of all the bustle -and crowding, there are quiet retreats, where a brilliant and colossal -coffee machine stands always on a table, surrounded by chairs, cups, and -plates filled with every kind of bread and cake are at hand; a pretty -looking girl performs the part of Hebe. At all hours of the day and -night, hot coffee, and in many of these places tea and chocolate, are -always ready; and almost every night, when I could not prevail on myself -to retire to the hot, close room without a breath of air, I have walked -about the ever thronged streets, and drank coffee, until fatigue drove -me to bed. At daybreak I was in the market again, among the crowds of -Americans, French, Creoles, English, Germans, Spaniards, Italians, -Negroes, Mulattoes, Mestizoes, Indians, &c., &c., and returned to -breakfast, at which I drank, Creole fashion, red wine iced, instead of -coffee, and then went to bed for a few hours. Kean joined me whenever -his<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_389" id="page_389"></a>{389}</span> business would permit; and many an hour passed in agreeable -conversation.</p> - -<p>At length, after a space of three weeks, the “Olbers” was cleared, and -ready to start. My effects were embarked, leave taken of all my friends, -a most hearty one of Kean, whom I loved as a brother, and who had always -behaved like one, and at ten at night the steamer “Porpoise” made -herself fast alongside, having besides a French brig, three schooners in -tow, and we started like a small fleet down the dark stream. We reached -the mouth of the Mississippi about noon the next day, and anchored. In -all directions thin green reeds were growing out of the water, giving -only a representation of land, the yellow river flowing through them, -and not a foot of solid ground anywhere visible. The Mississippi is here -a river but without any banks, though looking as if still enclosed in -its bed. To my great astonishment, houses were seen above this waste of -reeds and water, with living beings moving about them. As the pilot said -that we must wait till tomorrow for broad daylight and the flood tide, -to cross the bar, and we had nothing to do this afternoon, the captain -took two other passengers and myself to the row of houses, to see if we -could get oysters, or any thing else eatable. After half an hour’s sharp -rowing, we reached a platform resting on piles. A more uninviting place -to live in, I never saw. The water flows under the houses of this -outpost of American felicity, leaving at low-water a loose slimy mud, -which would engulf any one attempting to tread on it, and which swarms -with creeping things innumerable. I recollect an American saying that -Louisiana was not fit for the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_390" id="page_390"></a>{390}</span> abode of man, but only for mosquitoes, -bullfrogs, and alligators, and certainly here there seemed to be reason -in his words, for how a human being could be induced to settle in such a -place is still a mystery to me. The inhabitants catch oysters at no -great distance from their houses, sell some of them to the ships, and -carry the rest in their boats to New Orleans, to exchange them for -provisions and necessaries for their families, yes, <i>families</i>,—for -women and children were there too. When we arrived, there was not an -oyster left in the place, nor any thing else eatable to be had, and they -told us that they were anxiously looking out for a boat with provisions. -A glass of brandy adulterated with a little vitriol was all that we -procured, and we returned on board, rejoicing to escape the frantic -mosquitoes of the little settlement.</p> - -<p>At nine the next morning we weighed anchor, and the “Porpoise,” which, -meantime, had taken some smaller vessels over the bar, now took us in -tow, and with some trouble, dragged us over, the keel scraping -occasionally. She carried us several miles out into the gulf, and then -left us to make our way alone as well as we could, which, as there was -very little wind, was slow work enough; and at length we were quite -becalmed.</p> - -<p>My fellow-passengers were, a Hamburgh merchant, an American landholder, -who possessed thousands of acres in Texas, which he wished to dispose -of, (I never knew any one from Texas, who did not possess at least ten -thousand acres of good land;) and a citizen of Lübeck, who had married -in America, and who was taking his wife and his two children to live in -his native country.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_391" id="page_391"></a>{391}</span></p> - -<p>July 25th, during a perfect calm, I jumped overboard to bathe in the -crystal waters. A more delightful feeling is hardly to be described than -that of diving, swimming, splashing in the warm waters of the gulf; it -almost seemed impossible to sink, the body being so buoyant in the salt -water. I felt a longing desire to become a dolphin in the transmigration -of souls, and to settle in the gulf of Mexico. I remained in the water -till I was quite tired, and was obliged to lie down. Moreover, sea -bathing never agreed with me, and on the morrow I felt rather unwell. In -New Orleans I was not quite right, but would not take any medicine; now -I thought it was time to do so, and swallowed a dose of tartar emetic I -had had the precaution to bring with me, mixing in it a glass of -Madeira. The dose was rather strong, and its effect excessive; yet I was -better after it.</p> - -<p>On the 28th and 29th July, two sharks were caught, and eaten; but I -could not join in the feast, for I was now really ill with a fever, and -sharp pains in the chest, and every movement was attended with great -suffering. There was also cause for disquietude, in five sailors being -taken ill, and their disease assuming an extraordinary character.</p> - -<p>One evening as I was lying shaded from the moonbeams, I heard the mate -talking with the American passenger, who was also unwell, and he told -him, in a friendly way, that before we were clear of the gulf, at least -five men would have to be sewn up in sailcloth and dropped overboard; -and among them he named my worthy self. This was rather more than a -joke; after escaping all the dangers and toils of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_392" id="page_392"></a>{392}</span> land, to be -pitched over the side like a dead dog: and I was resolved to prove the -old proverb: “Where there’s a will, there’s a way,” and to get well -again. I took a glass of excellent arrack, and had a quantity of it -rubbed on my chest and shoulders. I fell asleep in a few minutes, and in -the morning I felt lighter and better. By the 1st August I was able to -crawl about, and decidedly improving. On the 3rd, we came in sight of -Cuba, and passed close enough to the shore to make out the palm-trees -and country houses.</p> - -<p>The sick sailors were still dangerously ill, and though there was a -medicine chest, yet there was no doctor on board, nor any one who -understood its contents; so there was little hope for the poor fellows. -One died that same evening, another on the 6th, another on the 7th. -There were no stones or weights on board to sink the corpses, and they -swam about the ship, as if they wished to be taken on board again, and -not to be left in this waste of waters. The moon was shining clear, and -we looked long in silence at the melancholy spectacle, not knowing whose -turn might come next.</p> - -<p>It was possible that we should be obliged to return to an American port -for men to navigate the ship, for six seamen had deserted at New -Orleans, and one had died, and the captain had replaced them by two -Americans, one Frenchman, and one Italian, altogether too few when we -first started. However, soon after the third corpse was thrown -overboard, a fresh breeze sprang up from the westward, and on the 9th we -entered the Atlantic. The patients improved, and by the 11th all were -well and fit for work.</p> - -<p>Leaving the Gulf stream as soon as possible, to avoid<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_393" id="page_393"></a>{393}</span> the -thunder-storms so frequent there, we had the most beautiful weather in -the world, with a fresh S. W. wind, inspiring cheerfulness and good -spirits. We amused ourselves in the mornings with books or chess, and in -the evenings playing whist with a dummy, the time passing rapidly and -agreeably. Sometimes, by way of a change in our amusements, the American -wife cuffed her Lübeck husband, or threw some household utensil at his -head; sometimes the Texan landholder got drunk, and talked all kinds of -nonsense. Thus there was no awful pause in our entertainments, up to the -time of arriving in the channel on the 1st of September, when a cutter -came alongside, and sold us fresh fish and potatoes, which we enjoyed -very much after all the salt provisions.</p> - -<p>It was too thick to see the land, but after dark we made out a -light-house on the coast of England, and afterwards another on that of -Normandy. The next day was still foggy, and the wind against us; later, -a pleasant breeze sprung up from the westward, dispersed the fog, -displaying the chalky cliffs of Albion in all the splendor of the -setting sun;—hundreds of vessels were in sight, while the sea was -almost as smooth as a lake. I mounted aloft to feast my eyes -undisturbed, on old, beloved, long-desired Europe, which seemed to open -her arms with a friendly smile to welcome back the wanderer.</p> - -<p>I remained till the darkness hid the prospect from my sight. At midnight -the wind changed again, and we had to beat to windward; as the day was -clear, we could make out people walking at Brighton, and the long rows -of bathing-machines on the beach. We also<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_394" id="page_394"></a>{394}</span> came close in to Dover, and -then over to Calais, after which we cleared the land, and stood into the -North Sea.</p> - -<p>On the 17th September, a pilot came on board, and on the evening of the -18th we were off Bremerhafen, and anchored about a quarter of a mile -from the entrance on account of the ebb. Here, to our great -consternation, the pilot informed us that we should be put in -quarantine, on account of the deaths which had occurred. This was a -woful stop to all our hopes of soon treading on terra firma, and it was -in a very ill humor that I watched the dread flag flying from the -foremast.</p> - -<p>On the following morning we moved close to the Hanoverian fort. A boat -with a flag uniting the Hanoverian and Bremen colors, put off and came -alongside, holding on by a boat-hook, and refusing to touch a rope, for -fear of infection. Two carefully enveloped figures sat in the stern; one -of these was a doctor, who made us all look over the ship’s side, that -he might behold and study our physiognomies, and see if they looked at -all suspicious. We were mustered, to show that all were present, and -then he inquired into all the particulars of the deaths. After gaining -all the information he desired, he noted it in a book, and said quite -coolly that he would send a report to Bremen, and that we should hear -again in a few days. Here was precious felicity! We had just time to -call out to the boatmen the names of various articles we wished them to -procure us, such as fresh meat, bread, butter, potatoes, &c. a good sign -how ill we all were—ere the boat pushed off, made sail, and disappeared -in the harbor.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_395" id="page_395"></a>{395}</span></p> - -<p>The Lübecker’s American wife, the only woman on board, had in the mean -time had many a dispute with her husband, whom she shamefully tormented; -yet he bore it all with inconceivable patience. She struck him, bit him, -hid his things, or threw them overboard, abused him, and in short, -behaved in a manner that would have exposed her to the roughest -treatment from many others; but her good man bore it all with a “What -can I do?” This was his answer to the advice of everybody on board, all -wishing that she should meet the reward of her infamous conduct; but it -was always, “What can I do? I cannot strike her.” His better half -happened to hear the word strike (schlagen), and although she did not -understand German, she knew what that meant; so springing on him like a -fury, and holding her fist in his face, she told him in unmistakable -terms that if he once attempted to raise his hand to her, she would -plunge a knife between his ribs, and scratch out his eyes. She was a -little frightened by one of the party telling her that if she did not -treat her husband better, he had the right in Germany of selling her to -anybody who would buy her—a statement which I confirmed: this startled -her; but if she had had any reflection, she must easily have known that -no one would buy such a termagant.</p> - -<p>She behaved better during the time we were in quarantine, perhaps -feeling that she was alone among foreigners, and would be quite helpless -without her husband.</p> - -<p>Ten days passed away, and we only saw the boat when she brought the -letters or provisions; at length one of the party wrote a request to the -principal<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_396" id="page_396"></a>{396}</span> authorities in Bremerhafen, that the passengers at least, who -had nothing to do with the cargo, might be permitted to land. Contrary -to expectation, the answer was favorable, and next morning a barge, of -blessed memory, came alongside, “in which the passengers and -baggage”—so ran the order—“were to be thoroughly smoked.”</p> - -<p>All our baggage was removed to the barge; the contents were unpacked and -spread out, the hatches laid on, a dark powder thrown in, and then -something liquid, and the hold was instantaneously filled with a thick -smoke. As soon as all the goods’ were smoked, the passengers were -required to undergo the same process; and we walked about in this -dreadful smoke for about a quarter of an hour: my lungs did not get rid -of the effects of it for three days after. This ordeal past, we repacked -our clothes, and prepared, after our long absence, to tread once more on -German ground. We waved a last adieu to our good captain, his officers, -and crew, whose conduct could not be too highly praised; and in a few -minutes, with light and joyful hearts, we stepped on the soil of our -native land.</p> - -<p class="c">THE END.</p> - -<p><a name="transcrib" id="transcrib"></a></p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="" -style="padding:2%;border:3px dotted gray;"> -<tr><th align="center">Typographical errors corrected by the etext transcriber:</th></tr> -<tr><td align="center">A Racoon=> A Raccoon {pg viii}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">unsteady zizgag flight=> unsteady zigzag flight {pg 247}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">for the mouutains=> for the mountains {pg 285}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">I was indtfferent to=> I was indifferent to {pg 354}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">sparng up from=> sprang up from {pg 392}</td></tr> -</table> - -<hr class="full" /> - - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Wild Sports In The Far West, by -Frederick Gerstaecker - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK WILD SPORTS IN THE FAR WEST *** - -***** This file should be named 51800-h.htm or 51800-h.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/5/1/8/0/51800/ - -Produced by Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images available at The Internet Archive) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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