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diff --git a/old/51300.txt b/old/51300.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 8f9901b..0000000 --- a/old/51300.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,15040 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook, Spanish America, Vol. II (of 2), by Sir -Richard Henry Bonnycastle - - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - - - - -Title: Spanish America, Vol. II (of 2) - - -Author: Sir Richard Henry Bonnycastle - - - -Release Date: February 25, 2016 [eBook #51300] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII) - - -***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SPANISH AMERICA, VOL. II (OF 2)*** - - -E-text prepared by Josep Cols Canals, Adrian Mastronardi, Les Galloway, -and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team (http://www.pgdp.net) from -page images generously made available by Internet Archive/American -Libraries (https://archive.org/details/americana) - - - -Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this - file which includes the original illustration. - See 51300-h.htm or 51300-h.zip: - (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/51300/51300-h/51300-h.htm) - or - (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/51300/51300-h.zip) - - - Project Gutenberg has the other volume of this work. - Volume I: see http://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/49255 - - - Images of the original pages are available through - Internet Archive/American Libraries. See - https://archive.org/details/spanishamericaor02bonn - - -Transcriber's note: - - Text enclosed by underscores is in italics (_italics_). - - - - - -SPANISH AMERICA; - -Or a Descriptive, Historical, And Geographical Account -of the Dominions Of Spain in the Western Hemisphere, -Continental and Insular; - -Illustrated by -A Map of Spanish North America, and the West-India Islands; -A Map of Spanish South America, -And an Engraving, Representing the Comparative Altitudes -of the Mountains in Those Regions. - -by - -R. H. BONNYCASTLE, - -Captain in the Corps of Royal Engineers. - - - "Such of late - Columbus found the American, so girt - With feathered cincture, naked else and wild - Among the trees, on iles and woody shores-- - ----In spirit perhaps he also saw - Rich Mexico the seat of Montezume, - And Cusco in Peru, the richer seat - Of Atabalipa, and yet unspoil'd - Guiana, whose great city Geryon's sons - Call El Dorado."-- PARADISE LOST. - -In Two Volumes. - -VOL. II. - - - - -London: Printed for Longman, Hurst, Rees, Orme, and Brown, -Paternoster-Row. 1818. - -Printed by A. Strahan, -New-Street-Square, London. - - - - -CONTENTS OF THE SECOND VOLUME. - - -PART II. - -SOUTH AMERICAN DOMINIONS. - -(CONTINUED.) - - CAPTAIN GENERALSHIP OF CARACCAS, Boundaries - and Extent Page 1 - Political and Territorial Divisions, Government 2 - Discovery, History 2 - Capital 4 - Description of the Features, &c. of the Country 8 - Province of New Andalusia 18 - ---- New Barcelona 18 - Features, Climate, &c. 25 - Province of Venezuela and Coro 43 - ---- Maracaybo 58 - ---- Varinas 65 - ---- Spanish Guiana 69 - Government of the Island of Margarita 73 - - VICEROYALTY OF PERU 75 - Extent and Boundaries 75 - Political and Territorial Divisions, Government, &c. 76 - Discovery, History, &c. 83 - Intendancy of Truxillo 120 - ---- Tarma 126 - ---- Lima 130 - ---- Guancavelica 134 - Intendancy of Guamanga 138 - ---- Cuzco 140 - ---- Arequipa 147 - - VICEROYALTY OF BUENOS AYRES OR LA PLATA, - Boundaries and Extent 155 - Political and Territorial Divisions, Government, - History, Discovery, &c. 156 - Features, Climate, &c. 161 - Commerce and Resources 167 - Government of Los Charcas or Potosi 171 - ---- Paraguay 195 - History, Discovery, &c. 195 - ---- Tucuman 204 - ---- Cuyo or Cujo 215 - ---- Buenos Ayres 220 - History, &c. 220 - Climate, Features, &c. 222 - - CAPTAIN GENERALSHIP OF CHILI 230 - Extent and Boundaries 230 - Political and Territorial Divisions and Government 231 - Discovery, and History 231 - Climate, Features, &c. 245 - Population 253 - Animals 253 - Continental Provinces of Chili 264 - Province of Copiapo 265 - ---- Coquimbo 265 - ---- Quillota 267 - ---- Aconcagua 269 - ---- Melipilla 270 - ---- Santiago 271 - ---- Rancagua 272 - ---- Colchagua 273 - ---- Maule 274 - ---- Itata 276 - ---- Chillan 276 - ---- Puchacay 277 - ---- Huilquilemu 279 - - INSULAR CHILI 282 - Archipelago of Chiloe 283 - - ARAUCANIA OR INDIAN CHILI 287 - - ISLANDS ON THE COASTS of Spanish South America 294 - - Plate and Description of comparative Altitudes of the - Mountains 301 - - List of Works on or relating to Spanish America, - quoted in this publication, &c. 305 - - Table of the Latitudes and Longitudes of the principal - Places 311 - - Summary of the Population 319 - - Wealth and Revenue 320 - - - INDEX 321 - - - - -ERRATA. - - - Pages 27, line 18, for _Angelo_ read _Antonio_. - - 28, 10, _for_ converziones _read_ conversaziones. - - 82, 22, _for_ omomum _read_ amomum. - - 127, 3, from bottom, _for_ Tarmu _read_ Tarma. - - 164, 8, _for_ Uraguay _read_ Uruguay. - - 182, 11, from bottom, _for_ Neustra _read_ Nuestra. - - 250, 4, from bottom _for_ Totten _read_ Tolten. - - 251, 3, _for_ Caquil _read_ Caguil. - - 278, 2 and 4, _for_ Lautro _read_ Lautaro. - - - - -SPANISH AMERICA. - - - - -PART II. - -SOUTH AMERICAN DOMINIONS. - -(CONTINUED.) - - -CAPTAIN-GENERALSHIP OF _CARACCAS_. - -Caraccas is a name taken from that of a tribe of Indians, and given -to a country which includes New Andalusia, or Cumana, with Margarita, -Barcelona, Venezuela, or Caraccas Proper, Maracaybo and Coro, on the -coast of the Caribbean sea, Varinas and Spanish Guiana in the interior. - - -BOUNDARIES AND EXTENT. - -It is bounded on the north by the Caribbean sea, east by the Atlantic, -south by Peru and Dutch Guiana, and west by the kingdom of Santa Fe -or New Granada; its extent may be computed from the twelfth to the -eighteenth degrees of north latitude, and occupies a space extending -over a surface equal to 48,000 square leagues. - - -POLITICAL DIVISIONS AND GOVERNMENT. - -The Caraccas are subdivided into seven provinces; _viz._ New Andalusia -or Cumana; Barcelona, Venezuela or Caraccas Proper, containing -Venezuela and Coro, Maracaybo, Varinas and Guiana, with the detached -government of the island of Margarita; the whole of these are under the -particular superintendence of an officer of the highest rank, who is -styled captain-general of the provinces of Venezuela, and the city of -Caraccas. The population amounts to nearly one million, of whom sixty -thousand are slaves, and about one-ninth Indians. - - -DISCOVERY AND HISTORY. - -The coast of this country was originally discovered by Columbus in -1498, during his third expedition. Several adventurers succeeding -in exploratory voyages on this part of the continent, the Spanish -government came to the determination of endeavouring to place colonies -on its soil. These being chiefly ill conducted, and managed by -priests unacquainted with the manners and customs of the natives, did -not succeed, and it was found necessary to endeavour to subdue the -inhabitants by force. When this was partially effected, and Spanish -settlers were placed in some security, the management of the new -colonies was entrusted to the care of the Welsers, a German mercantile -company. These people exercised, for a length of time, an uncontrolled -sway over the unfortunate Indians and the colonists. Their excess of -punishment and their fraud becoming at last notorious, the king of -Spain deprived them of their power, in 1550, and appointed an officer -of the crown to administer justice to the oppressed. - -This office, under the title of captain-general of the Caraccas, has -subsisted ever since, and with some few variations in the territorial -divisions, and some abridgments of the authority of the person -who fills it, it existed in the same form, until the year 1810. At -this period, the mother country, subdued in part by the victorious -arms of the French nation, had no time to attend to the situation -of her transatlantic colonies. Engaged in destructive and terrible -struggle herself, she little knew of the events which were taking -place in the Americas, or if she did know them, was unable to assist -those subjects devoted to her cause, or to quell the insurgent and -ambitious. Taking advantage of the shackled state of the resources of -Spain, the disaffected raised the standard of rebellion, and formed a -_junta suprema_ (a congress, or supreme council) in Caraccas. At first -they published their acts in the name of Ferdinand the Seventh; but -soon, however, on the arrival of Miranda with some troops, declared -themselves independent of the mother country, and appointed Miranda to -the chief command. Spain now placed their ports in a state of nominal -blockade. - -They have since been daily engaged in hostile measures, and junta has -succeeded to junta, royal power to insurgent government, and _vice -versa_, with little interval up to the present moment. The Caraccas may -indeed be styled the focus of the Spanish American revolution. Numerous -and bloody actions have taken place between the Spanish troops and the -Caraccanians, Miranda has been beheaded, and the captain-general has -reinstated himself. - -Don Simon Bolivar, a native of the country, possessing much property -and considerable influence, has been the great leader of this -revolt, styling himself president and commander in chief of the -united provinces of Venezuela. Obtaining from the congress of a -neighbouring state (New Granada) an army of 600 men, he marched -against Monteverde, the captain-general who had beheaded Miranda and -punished his colleagues, and meeting with few obstacles to surmount -entered the city of Caraccas as conqueror, on the 4th August, 1813. -The captain-general fled, and refusing to treat with the insurgents, -as derogatory to the honour of the master he represented, remained -quiet until he received from Spain a reinforcement of 1200 men; he then -attacked the city, but was repulsed with the loss of nearly his whole -army, and himself severely wounded. In discussing the historical facts -relating to South America in general, we have entered more at large -upon this subject. At present Bolivar occupies the lower parts of the -Orinoco, having made the town of Angostura his head-quarters. - -We have chosen the description of the kingdom of Peru as the proper -place to give detail of the general historical facts relating to the -whole of South America, as it was in that kingdom that the Spanish -government first took a consolidated form; we shall, therefore, at -present recur to the metropolis, description, and political divisions -of the captain-generalship we are now engaged in treating of. - - -CAPITAL. - -The city of CARACCAS, or as it is written by the Spaniards, CARACAS, -is the metropolis of this vast region, and has given its name, within -a late period, to the whole government. It is situated in 10 deg. 30' 15" -north-latitude, and 67 deg. 4' 45" west longitude, the highest square -being elevated 2903 feet above the level of the sea, at the commencement -of a fine plain or valley, which extends nine miles to the eastward, and -has nearly the same breadth, through which runs the river Guayra; the -site of the town is an uneven ground with a steep slope; it was founded -by Diego de Losada, in 1567, and called Santiago de Leon de Caracas, -in order to have a permanent settlement in the neighbourhood of some -gold mines, which were imagined to be very productive. The ground is so -precipitous, that the few carriages which the inhabitants possess are -little used. The Anauco, the Catache, and the Caraguatu, three small -streams, run through the city from north to south; the second of these -furnishes the water used by the labouring classes, the rich inhabitants -having that useful fluid brought from a stream about three miles off, -supposed to possess peculiar medicinal qualities. - -The streets of Caraccas are straight, wide, and intersect each other -at right angles; the houses very handsome and spacious; there are -some fine squares, and a handsome cathedral, with eight churches and -five convents. This city is the seat of the metropolitan, archbishop -of Caraccas, and contains a royal audience, which governs the civil -affairs of the captain-generalship, and of which court the officer -holding the reins of government is always president, it being in fact -a sort of legislative council, composed of the governor and great -state officers. The number of inhabitants of this celebrated town are -stated not to exceed 20,000 at present, owing to the tremendous loss -sustained by the earthquake in 1812, and to the recent sanguinary -events which have taken place. The theatre of Caraccas holds from -fifteen to eighteen hundred persons, and is well frequented; the female -part of the audience occupy the pit, and are separated from the men. -The pleasantest part of the year is during the months of November and -December, when the air is cool, and the mornings very fine, but the -evenings are foggy and damp. During the months of June and July, the -nights are beautiful and serene; in fact, the climate during the whole -year is so good, that this city may be said to enjoy a perpetual spring. - -This state of the atmosphere is finely contrasted with the dreary and -savage appearance of the mountains in the neighbourhood, the tremendous -precipice of the Silla, or Saddle, and the confused appearance of the -country on the right of the plain; which plain, called Chacao, is -highly cultivated in many parts, and affords the principal objects -of subsistence to the town. In it grows the plantain, the orange, the -apple, the apricot, the coffee-tree, the sugar-cane, the pine-apple, -the strawberry, vine, peach, quince, maize, corn, vegetables, rice, &c. -and in this fertile valley, numerous herds of cattle abound, it having -been computed that forty thousand head are annually brought to the -market, for the purpose of being salted, and of immediate consumption. - -The only inconvenience felt during this eternal spring is from the -effects of certain winds, which cause the weather to prove occasionally -inconstant, and produce low nervous fevers, and other disorders -incident to a variable atmosphere. The yellow fever sometimes, though -rarely, extends its ravages to this place, and once lasted (in the year -1696) for sixteen months, and in 1802 was fatal to the garrison newly -arrived from Europe. - -The season of periodical rain lasts during the months of April, May and -June; but hail is seldom or ever known oftener than once in four or -five years. - -This capital, placed in so charming a climate, compared to many others -in the same latitude, has bean subjected to a scourge, which no beauty -of situation, or salubrity of the air, can ever compensate. In the -year 1812 the whole city was nearly destroyed by an awful earthquake. -On the 26th of March, in that year, the population of Leon de Caraccas -amounted to fifty thousand souls; in a short space, even in the -passing of a moment, these devoted people were reduced to thirty eight -thousand, and as if an enormous mine had been exploded under the city, -the earth was upheaved to a tremendous height, and twelve thousand -persons were swallowed up, or perished amid the ruins of their houses. - -The survivors have been ever since busily engaged in repairing the -damages, and rebuilding the city, which is now rapidly advancing to -its former state, and the population annually increasing. - -_La Guayra_, a small town situated on the coast of the Spanish Main, -is the port of Caraccas, in 10 deg. 36' 19" north latitude, and 67 deg. 6' -45" west longitude, at the foot of the chain of mountains which terminate -abruptly in precipices on the coast, and which form the sides of the -valley in which the capital is built. From the city to the port, it -requires a journey of two hours on the mules of the country, which -are very safe and swift. The road is kept in excellent repair, and is -fortified by draw-bridges, thrown over the natural clefts, and by small -batteries. The harbour itself is rather a roadsted than a haven, and -contains a newly formed mole, protected by strong batteries. The wall -of rocks rise perpendicularly from the back of the town, and forbid -all access, excepting by the regular road. At La Guayra the sea is -always agitated, and the vessels are laden and discharged with much -difficulty; so much so, that mules are not embarked, the mulattoes and -negroes carrying the cacao and other merchandizes to the vessels, by -wading into the water. - -The flat space on which La Guayra stands is only about 900 feet in -breadth, from the precipice at the back to the sea, and the whole -aspect of the place is arid, gloomy and unpleasant. - -This town is surrounded on the sea side by works and batteries, some -of which are very strong, and contain within their limits two streets, -parallel to each other, with 8000 inhabitants. - -It may be said, that this port is one of the hottest places in -Spanish America; the yellow-fever had, however, only commenced its -destructive ravages within ten or twelve years, before which time, it -was unknown; some are of opinion, that it was brought there after the -port was opened to foreign commerce, by the seamen from the United -States; others, that it was caused by the overflowing of the river -Guayra, which filled the cellars and deep places with water, that -soon became stagnant, and exhaled putrid effluvia. However it may be, -the inhabitants and strangers who reside at La Guayra, have suffered -dreadfully of late years from this disorder. - -The annual amount of the commerce of this port, which is the principal -one of the province, has been estimated (in peaceable times) to arise -to the sum of 346,600_l._, in the exportation of cacao, indigo, cotton, -coffee and hides; and the importations of European and other goods to -511,700_l._ sterling in the same period. - - -DESCRIPTION OF THE FEATURES, &C. OF THE COUNTRY. - -The coast of Caraccas which extends for an immense length, is -exceedingly rocky and mountainous, affording views of some of the most -tremendous precipices in the world, that near the capital, called the -_Precipice of the Silla_, being of the height of 8000 feet above the -sea, which washes its base. - -The chain of the Andes, traversing the whole territory in the direction -of its shores, elevates itself the most in the western parts; and is -lost in the sea opposite to the great island of Trinidad, which is -itself very mountainous. - -The average height of the Cordillera of Caraccas may be estimated at -4500 feet, though it occasionally exceeds 8000; its breadth varies -from ten to twenty leagues, and it forms some extensive and beautiful -valleys. Owing to this elevation of the land, the heat is not so -insupportable as might be imagined from its situation; along the coast -it is very great; but ascending gradually into the higher regions, the -traveller finds it sensibly diminish, and observes with delight, the -vegetable productions of different countries, concentrated in a small -space. The great valley or plain of the Orinoco bounds the Cordillera -to the south, and far from possessing those elevated lands which -characterise the southern portion of the New World, Nature has here -spread the country into immense flats, or savannahs, known by the name -of Los Llanos (the Plains). - -In these plains innumerable herds of cattle are fed, attended by the -slaves or servants of the owners, who reside in the towns and villages. -These people, living entirely in the desert, have become little better -than so many wandering savages; they pass the greater part of their -time on horseback, and are said to infest the roads on the borders -of the savannahs with their robberies. The heat in the valley of the -Orinoco is intense, the thermometer rising even to 115 deg. - -The seasons are divided into rainy and dry, the rainy season lasting -from March to November, not however, without ceasing, as there are -many days in that period, in which no rain falls; during the time of -incessant rain, it does not descend in drizzling misty showers, but -comes with such volume and rapidity, that streams, which have been -dried to their very channels, now assume in the short space of a -few hours, the appearance of large rivers; the plains bordering the -Orinoco, and its tributary streams, are inundated by seas of fresh -water extending three or four hundred miles in length. - -_Rivers._--There is no country in the world which possesses more -numerous rivers than Caraccas, most of which rise in the Andes and its -dependent branches; every valley is traversed by its river; the ridge -which divides the provinces as it were into two distinct portions, -furnishes abundance of sources on both its declivities. Those which -arise on the northern side of this ridge, run from south to north, and -fall into the bosom of the Spanish main. Of these the _Manzanares_, -_Tuy_, _Guiges_, _Tocuyo_, _Aroa_, _Yaracuy_, _Unara_ and _Neveri_, -are the largest. - -The southern flank and main chain of the Andes afford rivers which -traverse the great Llanos in a southern direction, and swell, by their -junction with the Orinoco, the majestic body of that grand river; of -these, the _Mamo_, _Pariagou_, _Pao_, _Chivita_, _Zoa_, _Cachimamo_, -_Arauca_, _Capanaparo_, _Sinaruco_, the _Apura_ and the _Meta_, -are the principal; and the _Parima_, _Siaba_, _Joa Parana_ and the -_Cassiquiari_, fall into this river on its southern bank, the latter -forming a communication with the still more majestic stream of the -Maranon. - -The ORINOCO, or ORONOCO, is not only amongst the largest, but the -finest of South American rivers, and is chiefly distinguished by its -very singular and intricate course. Its sources are not well known, -but according to La Cruz, it rises in a small lake called Ipava, in 5 deg. -5' north-latitude, and thence winding upon itself, enters the lake of -Parima to the south-east, and issues by two outlets towards the north -and south; on the western shores of the lake; receiving the Guaviara, -it bends north, then north-east, and embracing the Meta, the Apura, the -Arauca, and the other large streams above-mentioned, with thousands of -smaller ones, falls into the Atlantic ocean, by numerous estuaries, -opposite the island of Trinidad, its chief mouth being considerably -to the south-east of that island. This noble river communicates with -the Maranon, and it is supposed, that a stream called the Siaba flows -from the south-west of the lake Parima into the Negro, and that to the -south-east of the same lake, the Rio Blanco, or Parima, joins the Rio -Negro also, this last communicating with the Maranon by means of the -Joa Parana. - -The river Cassiquiari, long conjectured to be a strong branch of the -Orinoco, but now known to be an arm of the Negro, communicates also -with the Amazons, its streams having been visited by M. de Humboldt, -who encountered great perils in the undertaking, by the force of the -current and other obstacles. The whole country for 300 miles was a -complete desert, in which the ants and mosquitoes were so exceedingly -troublesome as almost to deter the traveller from proceeding. He -entered the Orinoco, by the Cassiquiari in 3 deg. 30' north-latitude, and -mounted the current of the great river as far as Esmeraldas, the last -Spanish settlement in that quarter. The mouths of the Orinoco are very -dangerous to navigators; the largest is six leagues in width, and seven -of them are navigable for large vessels. The isles formed by these -are of very great extent, and are inhabited by the _Guaraounos_ and -_Mariusos_ Indians. On the banks of the Orinoco the magnificence of -the scenery is beyond description. Forests of the greatest extent are -filled with aromatic trees, which diffuse the most delightful odour; -birds of every singular variety of beautiful plumage are everywhere -observed, and hordes of monkeys follow the astonished traveller. -Passing these forests, enormous plains extend their verdant surfaces -further than the eye can reach, and the cataracts of the Orinoco give -their name to the whole Cordillera, and are represented to be the most -tremendous that have ever been observed; but no good description of -these falls has yet been given, though they constitute the only outlets -from the country situated on the east of the Andes to the vast plains -of the Maranon. These cataracts are at Maypura and Atures, two villages -in about 6 deg. north-latitude, near the great bend of the river. - -The periodical inundation of the Orinoco begins in April and ceases in -August; in October the flood is low, arriving at its shallowest point -in February; the rise is equal to thirteen fathoms at the distance of -ninety leagues from the ocean. The mouth of the great estuary is in 8 deg. -30' north-latitude, and 59 deg. 50' west longitude. - -The caymans, or alligators, are very numerous, and very formidable -throughout its whole length, which may be estimated at about 1250 miles. - -_Indians._--On the banks of the Orinoco the Indian tribes are not -numerous, consisting only of from 500 to 2000 warriors each; of these, -the _Caribs_ are the most powerful as well as the most formidable. The -_Otomacs_ follow them, and all are nearly in the same state of nature. -In this part of the Caraccas, the total number of the natives cannot -be accurately ascertained; but in the province of New Andalusia, they -amount to 24,000, and in the two provinces of Barcelona and Cumana to -60,000. In Cumana they live almost wholly under the missionaries in -little towns or amongst the Europeans, each mission containing about -five or six hundred. In the province of Barcelona, the Indian villages -contain from two to even three thousand inhabitants. The _Guaraounoes_, -who inhabit the islands of the Orinoco, are independent of the -Spaniards, and amount to about six thousand. - -To the north of the Orinoco, there are few natives in a state of -absolute barbarism; it is only to the south of this river that the -efforts of missionaries have been ineffectual. - -The provinces of New Andalusia and Barcelona contain fourteen tribes, -the _Chaymas_, _Guayquerias_, _Pariagotoes_, _Quaquas_, _Araucas_, -_Caribbees_, _Guaraounoes_, _Cumanagotoes_, _Palenkas_, _Piritoos_, -_Tomoozas_, _Topocuares_, _Chacopatas_, and _Guarivas._ - -The _Guayquerias_, who are civilized Indians residing at Cumana and -Araya, amount to 2000. - -The Chaymas, the Caribs of the Savannahs, and the Cumanagotoes, are -the most numerous. A few, and only a few, of the savages of the -islands of the Orinoco, who build their huts on trees, have been -formed into missions on the left bank of the Orinoco. These four last -possess languages which are the most universal in this part of the -world, the Cumanogoto language prevailing in the western part of the -captain-generalship, and the Caribbean and Chayman in the southern and -eastern districts. - -The missions are not always formed of the same tribe, but often consist -of families of different nations, speaking different languages; they -all cultivate the land, their huts are all erected in the same style, -and they have all a common field for the uses of the community, and -are governed by fixed laws; the magistrates are chosen from among -themselves, and each village is superintended in its religious and -civil affairs by a monk. - -The _Chaymas_ were reduced to subjection in the seventeenth century, -by Francisco of Pamplona, a monk who had been the captain of a ship; -and the oldest mission bears its date from 1660. Of these there are at -present twenty-five, containing 15,000 souls. They suffered much from -1681 to 1720 from the Caribs, who burnt the settlements. - -In stature, the natives of this tribe are short, being not more than -five feet two inches, their body thick, with broad shoulders and -flat chest, their colour a dull brown, and they are of a melancholic -temperament. - -They have a great aversion to European clothing, and remain naked -whilst in their houses, but when obliged to go out, they put on a vest -with sleeves, which reaches almost to the knees; the women wear this -habit without the sleeves, and both sexes use a narrow bandage tied -round the loins: they also carefully eradicate the hair from the chin, -and are a neat people, keeping their persons, houses and utensils very -clean. - -Their language, as well as those of the Caribs and Cumanagotoes, has -each had a dictionary composed for the use of the missionaries; no word -begins with _l_, and it is destitute of _f_, _b_ and _d_. - -The _Pariagotoes_ are mixed with the Chaymas, in the missions; and -exist in the villages on the banks of the Caroni. They speak a language -peculiar to themselves. - -The _Guaraounoes_ build their huts on the trunks of the mangrove and -palm trees, to raise them above the waters in the great inundations -of the Orinoco; as we before observed, they are independent, with the -exception of a very few, who have been converted by the monks. Sir -Walter Raleigh describes them under the names of Aroottes, Trititivas -and Warawites. They make their bread of the flour extracted from the -palm tree, which they cut down for this purpose, just previous to the -appearance of the flowers. - -Five or six hundred of this race quitted the islands a short time -ago, and formed two villages on the north and south banks of the -great river, twenty-five leagues distant from the sea, where they -live independent of the missionaries. They are of a middle size, and -very strong, and are able to run on the mud of the marshes, where no -other Indians can walk. These people are the pilots of the Orinoco, -possessing a perfect knowledge of its navigation, and are concerned in -the clandestine commerce carried on from Trinidad. - -The _Guayquerias_ will be described in speaking of the town of Cumana -which they chiefly inhabit. - -A tribe called the _Quaquas_ are mixed with the Chaymas in the -missions, and inhabit an immense tract of country as far as the main -Cordilleras of the Andes. - -The _Cumanagotoes_, to the amount of 26,000, live in the west of -Cumana, in the missions of Piritoo. The chief mission of the Piritoos -(so called on account of a thorny palm of which pipes are made) was -founded in 1556, and was named La Conception. - -In this country, the _Caribbees_ are spread over a great extent, -existing also in French Guyana, and in Trinidad; and the Guarivas, as -well as many others, are Carib tribes. A few missions are found in the -great plains, in which some of these people are settled. The Caribs -are distinguished in the Caraccas by their great size. - -A tribe on the banks of the Orinoco, named the _Otomacs_, raise their -dead at the end of twelve months, and place the bones in a general -burying place; they cover their grain, fish, vegetables, &c., with -earth, to preserve them, and devour their food mingled with the soil -in which it has lain. The substances become quite hard in these pits, -by the incrustations of the soil, and some of them are said to eat -a pound and a half of the earth in a day. The Indians of all these -tribes, who prefer a wandering life to the subjected state of their -brethren in the missions, are frequently attacked in the night by the -monks and their followers, and made prisoners. When the missionaries -give the young people to the converted Indians as slaves, in which -capacity they remain until of an age to marry, in consequence of this, -the mission Indians frequently instigate the priests to attack these -unfortunate people, being eager to possess them. Those who are thus -taken are called Poitos, and in general consist only of children, torn -with unrelenting severity from the arms of their terrified parents. The -motive assigned by the monks for such arbitrary measures, is the hope -of their ultimate conversion. - -_Lakes_--The lakes of Caraccas are chiefly those of Valencia and -Maracaybo. _Maracaybo_ is a body of water of an oval form, lying in a -north and south direction, and communicating with the gulf of Venezuela -by a very narrow channel. In length it is 150 miles, in breadth 90, -and 450 in circumference; its waters being always fresh, excepting -when violent storms force the salt waters of the gulf into it. There -is generally a considerable undulation on its surface, and in some -winds, particularly those from the north, the waves rise to a great -height. The depth of this lake is very profound, and it is navigable -for vessels of the greatest burthen. - -The produce of the interior is conveyed by the rivers which feed it, to -the town of Maracaybo, and thence shipped for Europe or the adjoining -colonies; and the various sorts of fish, common to the American rivers, -are to be found in this lake. - -The shores in the immediate vicinity of its waters, are unhealthy, -owing to the vapours arising in the night after the great heat of the -day. - -When the Spaniards first landed in this country, they observed several -villages built in the lake, which is the mode adopted by the Indians at -present, considering this plan as the healthiest. - -The appearance of one of these little towns amid the waters, caused the -Spanish adventurers to name it Little Venice, or Venezuela, which title -was afterwards transferred to the whole province in the neighbourhood. -Four of these villages still remain, and are under the government of a -monk, who has a church, and the spiritual charge of these people. - -The principal employment of the Indians of these towns is fishing and -catching the aquatic birds which frequent the lake. - -To the north-west of Lake Maracaybo, is a vein, or mine of mineral -pitch, (used by mixing it with grease, to grave vessels,) which is -of such an inflammable nature, that during the hot weather, and -particularly at night, corruscations are seen arising from its surface, -which have the appearance of quickly repeated lightnings. The Indians -and Spaniards, who navigate the vessels and canoes of the lake, called -them St. Antony's Lanthorns, or the Lanthorns of Maracaybo, as they -serve them to steer by during the dark nights, so prevalent in the -torrid zone. - -The lake of _Valencia_, which though not so extensive as the last we -have described, is far more beautiful and useful. Its banks are fertile -and healthy, and clothed with the most luxurious vegetation. It is -situated three miles from the city of Valencia, and eighteen from the -sea, from which it is separated by inaccessible mountains; the lake of -Valencia is of an oblong form, stretching north-east and south-west, -and is forty miles in length and twelve in breadth, in a valley -surrounded by very high and steep land, excepting on the west. - -This extraordinary lake receives the waters of twenty rivers, and has -no visible outlet. It has been diminishing for twenty years, and its -waters are still receding, leaving behind them a rich and productive -soil, but at the same time an unhealthy air; and the cultivators are in -some parts under the necessity, from the want of water, of drawing off -the neighbouring streams to irrigate their plantations. - -The eastern side is laid out in tobacco grounds, which occupy 15,000 -people, who are paid by the crown; and the islands in which it abounds -are highly fertile, the largest called Caratapona, being well populated. - -The woods near this lake are famous for the diversity and beauty of the -birds, and its waters furnish fish, and the guanas, or edible lizard, -which are considered as a very delicious food; of these, two species -are common to the lake. The water of Lake Valencia is not so good for -drinking as that of Maracaybo, being thick and nauseous. - -This lake bears the Indian name of Tacarigua, as does a bay or lake on -the coast, which is situated a league and a half from the mouth of the -river Tuy, of a circular form, and is twenty-one miles in length from -the sea on the north-east to the south-east, it abounds in fish, and is -remarkable for the great number of alligators it contains. - -The lake of _Parina_, or _Paranapitinca_, in Guiana is said to be an -oblong sheet of water, 100 miles in length, and 50 broad, in an island -of which is a rock of glittering mica, celebrated as having been the -seat of El Dorado, a supposititious city, the streets of which were -paved with gold, alluded to by Milton in his Paradise Lost. - - "And yet unspoil'd Guiana - Whose great city Geryon's sons - Call El Dorado." - -This lake is in 3 deg. 40' north latitude, and 45 deg. 20' west longitude, -and gives birth to a large river, called Rio Blanco, or Parima, which we -have before spoken of. - - -_PROVINCE OF NEW ANDALUSIA._ - -This province, which is also known by the names of Cumana and Paria, is -bounded on the north by the Caribbean sea; on the east by the Atlantic -ocean; west by Barcelona, and south by Spanish Guiana, or the river -Orinoco. - -The government of Cumana usually includes the adjacent province of New -Barcelona. We shall therefore describe these two under the same head, -mentioning however the distinct boundaries of-- - - -_NEW BARCELONA_, - -Which is limited on the north by the Caribbean sea; east by Cumana; -west by Venezuela, or Caraccas Proper, and south by Guiana and the -Orinoco. - -The great extent of the territory of Cumana and Barcelona, its being -washed on two of its sides by the ocean, and by the broad expanse -of the Orinoco on the third, render it one of the most important -governments of the captain-generalship. - -_History, &c._--The eastern part of New Andalusia is famous as having -been the scene of the first continental discoveries of Columbus. The -mouths of the Orinoco and the adjacent shores of Paria were visited -by him during his third voyage. The first land discovered during -this expedition, was however not the continent, but the island of -Trinidad, which was so named because the admiral had vowed to give the -appellation of the Trinity to the first land he should see, and also -because three mountains were observed at the same moment. This happened -on Tuesday, 31st July, 1498, and having but one cask of water left, he -landed at Punta de la Playa, where he procured the necessary supply. - -On the 1st of August, whilst plying between Cape de la Galera (the -first cape they made) and Punta de la Playa, he discovered the main -land twenty-five leagues distant; but imagining it another island, -he named it Isla Santa. The channel between Trinidad and Isla Santa -was named Boca del Sierpe, and the next day he sailed into the lower -channel, and called it Boca del Drago. They were so styled on account -of the furious hissing noise which the current of an immense river -made in rushing towards the ocean. He coasted the supposed island -until Sunday, the 5th of August, when he anchored and went on shore. -Soon afterwards he took some of the natives into his ship, and landing -further to the west, by the direction of these people, discovered that -the supposed island was part of an immense continent, and that the -natives called it Paria. - -Being informed that pearls were found in great abundance among some -islands to the west, he steered in that direction, and discovered the -islands of Margarita, or of Pearls, Cubagua, and Los Testigos, or the -Witnesses, &c. On the 16th of August he stood to the north-west, and -anchored on the coast of Hispaniola soon afterwards. - -The admiral was followed by Ojeda, in 1499, who traced the coast as -far as Cape de la Vela, entering several ports to procure information. -Christoval Guerra, accompanied by Pedro Nino, who had been with -Columbus on this coast, obtained a licence to explore the continent and -islands for gold and pearls. They procured plenty of the latter in the -bay of pearls, between Margarita and the main, and visited the coasts -of Venezuela and Coro. - -Having got 1200 ounces of very fine pearls, these adventurers sailed -back, along the shore to the gulf of Paria, whence they stretched over -for Spain, in which country they arrived on the 6th of February, 1500. - -Vicente Yanez Pinzon having discovered the mouth of the great Maranon -in 1500, sailed northwards from it, and explored the estuary of the -Orinoco, and the coast of Paria, from which he sailed for St. Domingo, -having first laden his vessels with Brazil wood. - -The report of the arrival of Guerra, with such a valuable cargo, soon -spread over the whole kingdom of Spain; and expeditions were fitted out -in every part for the American continent. Charles the Fifth gave these -adventurers permission to enslave the Indians who should resist them; -in consequence of this, avarice and rapacity soon made a dreadful havoc -among these unfortunate people; a complaint of these proceedings at -last reached the royal audience of St. Domingo, which court immediately -took measures to punish the offenders. They appointed Juan Ampues, to -the government of the country, who landed on the coast of Curiana, in -1527, with an armed force. - -The mildness of his measures gained him the affections of the Indians, -and the cacique of the Curiana nation took the oath of allegiance to -Spain, on the 26th of July, 1527.--This governor laid the foundation of -the city of Coro. - -At this time the company of the Welsers, a German establishment of -Augsburgh, having advanced great sums to Charles the Fifth, that -Emperor granted them, at their earnest request, the sovereignty of the -province of Venezuela from Cape Vela, to Maracapna, and with unlimited -boundaries to the south. Their power did not last long, and Juan Perez -de Tolosa was appointed governor, with the rank of captain-general. New -laws were made, and the Indians were declared free from involuntary -servitude; as soon as a nation or tribe was subjected, a town was -built, and a hundred Europeans were sent to colonize it. The laws of -the repartimientos and encomiendos were established, and every thing -went on properly at first, but the settlers abusing their authority -over the natives, these laws were repealed, and Spanish America was -declared a kingdom united to the Spanish crown. The council of the -Indies was formed at Madrid, the legislative functions were declared to -be vested solely in the king, aided by this council, and the executive -was to belong only to officers appointed by the court; accordingly, on -the 4th of September, 1519, this act was decreed and promulgated, since -which Caraccas has been governed by a captain-general, and subordinate -officers. - -In treating of Cumana we must not omit mentioning the history of -the visit paid to this coast by Las Casas, the bishop of Chiapa in -Guatimala. BARTOLEMEO DE LAS CASAS who was born at Seville in 1474, -and when only nineteen years of age, accompanied his father and -Columbus to the west Indies, returning to Spain after an absence -of five years, took the habit of a monk, and again embarked with -Columbus to Hispaniola; on the settling of Cuba, he was appointed -rector of Zaguarama, where he strenuously objected against reducing -the Indians to servitude, at the same time relinquishing his own share -in the partition of these people among the whites. Meeting with great -opposition, on account of his determined resistance to the oppression -of the aborigines, he set out for Spain in 1516, for the purpose of -laying the grievances, under which the newly-discovered nations -laboured, before the King. Ferdinand promised that new laws should be -made, but death prevented his resolves from being put into execution; -Las Casas then applied to Cardinal Ximenes the regent, and that -minister sent out three commissioners to enquire into the circumstances -of the case. These three persons were monks of St. Jerome, and were -accompanied by a lawyer of great abilities, and Las Casas, who was -granted the title of "Protector of the Indians." - -On their arrival at St. Domingo, these commissioners finding it -impossible to do away with the enslavement of the Indians at once, they -adopted some salutary measures to better their condition. Las Casas -remonstrated with them, but found his efforts useless, and as he had -made all the planters his enemies, he saw himself under the necessity -of retreating to the protection of the convent from the effects of -their malignity. He again set out for Spain, with a determination not -to abandon the cause in which he had embarked. Ximenes being on his -death-bed, and the Emperor Charles the Fifth having appointed his -Flemish ministers to the chief offices of state, Las Casas was obliged -to endeavour to interest them in his favour; in this he succeeded, and -they recalled the monks of St. Jerome, and appointed a judge to examine -the complaints of the Indians with ample powers to redress them. - -But Las Casas here tarnished the glory he would otherwise have enjoyed -unsullied. To carry his favourite scheme the more certainly into -execution, he proposed that a certain number of negroes should be -purchased from the Portuguese in Africa, to replace the Indians who -were to be liberated. His plans, unfortunately for the poor Africans, -were adopted, and ever since that period these degraded people have -suffered the most galling servitude, which it is now the delight of -an Englishman to know, that his nation have stepped forward to put a -lasting stop to; and the reign of the Prince Regent, would, independent -of the brilliant events which have rendered it immortal, have been -remembered, to the remotest ages by this magnanimous act alone. The -emperor Charles granted a patent to one of his Flemish courtiers, -containing the exclusive right of sending 4000 negroes to the West -Indies; this patent was sold to Genoese merchants for 25,000 ducats, -and these people have the odium of being the first who brought this -abominable traffic to a regular form. Las Casas proposed also to send -mechanics and labourers to Hispaniola with the negroes, who should be -allowed an advance to go thither; but the bishop of Burgos, who was the -great enemy of Columbus and his followers, defeated this project, as -well as every other that Las Casas offered. - -Fearful that he should not succeed in relieving the Indians in the new -settlements, he requested from the Emperor the grant of a district, -then unoccupied, from the gulf of Paria to Cape de la Vela, thus -including Cumana, Barcelona, Venezuela, Coro, and Maracaybo. In his -memorial, he proposed settling this country with a colony of priests, -husbandmen, and labourers; he engaged in two years, to instruct the -natives in the arts of social life; to civilize 10,000 of them, and -that at the end of that time, the king should derive a revenue of -15,000 ducats, which was to increase to 50,000 in ten years. After much -difficulty, in consequence of the opposition of the meddling bishop, -this extent of coast was granted to him, with liberty to extend it -indefinitely into the interior. He sailed from Spain with 200 followers -in 1521. Many of these left him at Puerto Rico, others died, and he -landed on the coast of Cumana, with a few only who still adhered to -him; here he found the country in a state of great agitation from a -recent invasion of the Spanish islanders, who had attacked the natives, -for the purposes of procuring slaves and gold. He was obliged to go -over to Hispaniola to procure a reinforcement, and during his absence, -the Indians attacked the colony he had planted, destroyed many of the -people, and forced the remnant to take refuge in the little isle of -Cubagua. - -This isle they soon abandoned, and not a Spaniard was then left in any -part of the continent from Paria to Darien. Las Casas, mortified beyond -every thing, by the failure of his splendid schemes, shut himself up -in the Dominican convent at Hispaniola. Here he devoted himself to the -performance of religious duties, still keeping in mind the great object -of his ambition. The sufferings of the Indians increasing daily, and -a chapter of his order at Chiapa in New Spain, having made him their -messenger to Europe, on some important affairs, he once more revisited -Madrid in 1542, and took a favourable opportunity of pleading the cause -of the injured Indians before Charles V. He also composed a treatise, -which he called "A Brief Relation of the Destruction of the Indians;" -in which was painted, in the most pathetic and forcible manner, the -enormities which had taken place in every country of the New World -which the Spaniards had visited. - -This work created the most lively sensations throughout Europe, and -such a general abhorrence of the cruel measures of the adventurers, -that the Spanish court thought fit to adopt some measures to silence -the universal clamour. New regulations were adopted, some of which -tended to ameliorate the condition of the unfortunate Americans; and -Las Casas was elevated to the dignity of bishop of Chiapa, in order to -afford every relief in the power of the church to bestow. - -He returned to America in 1544, and continued in this see until 1551, -exerting himself in every possible manner to attain the object of his -wishes; in which he succeeded greatly, but his health failing in 1551, -he resigned his bishopric, and once more revisited his native country; -in the same year, and for five years subsequent to his return, he lived -in Madrid, still exerting all his influence to consolidate the measures -which had been taken for the prosperity of the people to whom he was so -much attached; at last nature became worn out, and this indefatigable, -and benevolent man, closed his career in 1556, in the 92d year of his -age. - -Besides the work alluded to above, he wrote several others, among -which, is a "General History of the Indies," of which Antonio de -Herrera is said to have availed himself in the compilation of his -celebrated history of the New World. - - -FEATURES, CLIMATE, &C. - -The provinces of Barcelona and Cumana are extremely mountainous; the -first branch from the main chain of the Andes running through these -districts, and terminating in the ocean at the gulf of Paria. - -This ridge gives birth to the rivers which flow into the Orinoco on -the south, and into the Caribbean sea on the north, and contains some -highly picturesque and singular scenery; the most noted parts of which -will be hereafter described. - -The climate of this government varies according to the situation of -its districts, on the high land of the mountains, or in the valleys or -plains of the interior. - -_Capitals._--The chief town of New Andalusia is Cumana, where the -governor of the two provinces usually resides. The chief town of New -Barcelona, is Barcelona. - -_Cumana_ is situated in 10 deg. 27' 52" north latitude, and 64 deg. 9' -47" west longitude, a mile from the battery of the Boca, or mouth of the -harbour, between which and the town extends a great plain, called El -Salado. The port is formed by the fine river Manzanares, which runs -through the town. East of the city is another extensive plain, and -north of it a rocky mass, on which stands the citadel of St. Antonio. -The city occupies the space between the citadel, the river Manzanares, -and another smaller stream called the Santa Catalina, and the plains -which surround it are highly cultivated; that towards the sea having -an Indian suburb and gardens filled with sapotes, mameis, plantains, -&c. The suburb is divided into three parishes; on the east is that -of Sarritos, on the south-east, St. Francisco, and the great town of -the Guayqueria Indians. Cumana is one of the oldest cities of the -continent, and was built by Gonzalo Ocampo in 1520. - -In the city of Cumana are no very remarkable buildings, owing to the -fatal effects of the last earthquake. There is only one parish church -and two convents, but additions are daily making to it, which will -render it a fine town. - -This city is remarkable for the purity and healthiness of its climate, -on account of the heat being moderated by the sea-breezes; the most -fatal disorders are fluxes, which carry off numbers of children -annually, owing to the great use they make of green indigestible -fruits. The women, particularly the Indians, are very prolific, which -in some measure compensates for the loss annually experienced of the -younger branches of society. The population of Cumana amounts at -present to 16, or 17,000 souls, of which, two-fifths are Indians of -the Guayqueria, Chayma, and other tribes. Of these, the _Guayquerias_ -are the most noted tribe not only of Cumana, but of Caraccas; they -are a branch of the Guarounoes, who inhabit the swampy island, at the -mouth of the Orinoco; but they have now become so incorporated with -the Spaniards, that for the last century they have spoken the Spanish -language only. When Columbus was on this coast, his people saw these -Indians fishing with long poles pointed at one end, and tied to a -cord at the other; demanding of them the name of their country, they -immediately replied Guiake, which signified pointed stick; the sailors -thought this was the name of the tribe, and accordingly called them -Guaikerias, which name they have since retained. - -These people, who also inhabit the islands, show to Europeans with -pride the Punta de la Galera, so called, because Columbus's vessel -touched there, as well as port Manzanillo, where they swore fidelity in -1498 to the whites, which vow they have never violated. The Guayquerias -are the pilots of the coast of Cumana, and their suburb is composed of -rows of uniform low buildings disposed into the form of streets, which -have a very neat appearance. - -On a naked rock which commands the city, 100 feet above the level of -the sea, is the castle of St. Antonio, which commands the place. There -is also another fort in ruins, on the south-west; and the entrance -into the port is defended with inconsiderable batteries, but the -military positions of Cumana are of little importance, as the citadel -is commanded by a part of the same rock on which it stands; the chief -defence of this post being a thick wood of the cactus, whose thorny -shoots defy admission into its recesses. - -The entrance of the harbour of Cumana is highly picturesque, the city -rising out of the plain backed by the citadel, its rocks and groves, -the plantations of cocoa-nuts, cassias, capers, and arborescent -mimosas; the shores covered with alcatras or brown pelicans, egrets, -and flamingoes. The beauty of the river, and the clear blue of the sky, -contrasted with the dark and gloomy appearance of the mountains in -the interior, conspire to afford a landscape of the most captivating -character. - -The European inhabitants, and the descendants of Europeans, are noted -for their great politeness and hospitality to strangers; they are -chiefly occupied in commercial enterprize, this and Barcelona being -ports where much trade is carried on. The manner and customs of these -people is nearly allied to those of their brethren in the other great -cities of Spanish America. One of the most singular of their customs is -that of passing most of their evenings sitting on chairs placed in the -river. - -In this city, the first question in a morning is, "Is the water cool?" -Their conversaziones are carried on in the rivers where the evening -parties are mostly spent in talking about the weather, the news, and -in smoking. All the inhabitants of the town it is said can swim, and -the children pass the greater part of their time in the water. The -alligator is not dangerous at Cumana, as they are seldom seen, and are -only of the smallest kind; the chief fear that the women have whilst -bathing is from the dolphin, which sometimes comes up the river and -spouts like the whale. - -The port of Cumana is formed by the gulf of Cariaco, and its harbour -by the river Manzanares. The gulf of Cariaco is thirty-eight miles in -length and sixty-eight in breadth, with excellent anchoring ground; -and the ocean is always smooth and unruffled from Porto Cabello to the -point of Paria; so much so, that the coasting vessels are not decked; -the only danger in the port of Cumana being a shoal, called Morro Roxo, -half a mile in breadth and very steep on all sides. - -This city has been repeatedly shook by subterrene convulsions; and -the natives have a tradition that the gulf of Cariaco was formed by -an earthquake, just before the third voyage of Columbus. In 1530, the -whole coast was shaken, and the city, then called New Toledo, suffered -by having its fort at the mouth of the river destroyed; an immense rent -was made in the coast, from which asphaltum and water issued. - -These shocks were very frequent towards the end of the 16th century, -the sea often rising fifteen or twenty fathoms. On the twenty-first -of October, 1766, the city was overthrown, and numbers of persons -perished; the tremblings of the earth continued hourly for fourteen -months; but in 1767, the inhabitants incamped in the streets, when the -shocks only took place once a month; a great drought had happened in -1766, but during 1767, the rains were so continual, that the harvest -was very abundant. In this memorable earthquake the ground opened and -threw out hot water. - -In 1794, they experienced another tremendous convulsion, and on the -14th of December, 1797, four-fifths of the city were utterly destroyed, -the earth heaving up with loud subterraneous noises; but the people got -into the streets in time, and a small number only perished of those who -sought for refuge in the churches. Half an hour before this happened, -there was a strong sulphureous smell near the castle, and a loud noise -under the ground; flames were seen to rise from the banks of the river, -and in several other places. These flames are frequently observed near -the city on the plains, they do not burn the herbage, and issue from -no apparent crevices, the people calling them the soul of the tyrant -Aguirra, who took part in a revolt against Ursua, governor of Omaguas, -and styled himself "the traitor." He descended the Amazons, and reached -the island of Margarita by the rivers of Guiana. - -Though so continually exposed to this dreadful calamity, the -inhabitants of Cumana are in a measure insensible to it, as they -imagine that it never occurs but at particular intervals, and that they -have always sufficient notice by the state of the weather and other -occurrences. - -The neighbourhood of Cumana is infested with the rattle snake, the -coral vipers, centipedes, &c. - -Farms and country-seats adorn the banks of the Manzanares; at a little -distance from the city these are beautifully situated, amid groves of -cactus, tamarinds, brazilletoes, the enormous ceiba, palms, &c., and -the soil is so rich for pasturage, that excellent milk and butter are -produced. - -Near Cumana the most noted mountains are the Cerro or chain of the -Brigantin, about eighteen miles distant, the highest summit of which -has a flat top, and is elevated more than 5000 feet above the sea, and -the sides of this chain are nearly perpendicular, the country about it -being a mere desert. - -The inhabitants of Cumana attempted to cross these mountains with a -road, but found it impracticable, and the passage to the plains of -the interior lies over a part of the chain, known by the name of the -Imposible, over which a new road is carrying on, the present one being -very steep. This chain is continued to the extremity of the gulf of -Cariaco, and forms the barrier between it and the ocean. - -On the peninsula formed by this gulf are the salt works of Araya, which -have been successively worked by most of the European nations who -possess colonies in the West Indies. The Dutch were however expelled in -1605, when a fort or battery was built to prevent their return, and the -mere or lake which these salt-works consist of, was overflowed by the -sea in the great hurricane in 1726, which also destroyed the battery; -but pits or reservoirs have been since dug, and the sea dyked out, so -that great quantities of salt are still procured. - -The consumption of this article in forming tasajo, or salted provision, -amounts, in Barcelona and Cumana, to 9 or 10,000 fanegas (each 400lbs.) -annually, of which the salt marsh or grounds of Araya, furnish 3000 -fanegas, and the sea the rest. - -The Indians use very little salt with their food, but the creoles and -negroes live almost entirely on salted meat and fish. Salt being a -royal monopoly, the revenue derived from Araya is considerable. - -A small village is established on the peninsula of Araya, where the -Indians keep large flocks of goats. This strip of land was the first -place where the Spaniards began to found a town; and it contains -springs and masses of petroleum; this substance existing also on its -coasts, at Cape de la Brea, Punta Soto, and Guararitto. A stream of -naptha issues from the bed of the sea, near these shores, and forms a -visible spot, 1000 feet in diameter, among the weeds, with which the -beach is covered. - -NUEVA BARCELONA, the chief town of the province of the same name, is -situated in a plain on the left bank of the river Neveri, half a league -distant from the sea, in 10 deg. 10' north latitude, and 64 deg. 47' west -longitude; ten leagues by land from Cumana. - -This city was founded in 1636, by Juan de Urpin, who had been a canon, -doctor, and counsellor of laws in St. Domingo, and a private soldier in -the fort of Araya; he gave the name of New Catalonia to the province, -which was afterwards changed to that of the city. It is meanly built, -though it has a regular appearance; the streets are very dirty in -the rainy season, and very dusty in the hot weather; and the immense -quantity of hogs bred in this place renders the town disgustingly -dirty, from the filth which they spread over the footways; and it was -not till the year 1803, that some measures were taken to put a stop to -this nuisance. - -Barcelona contains one parish church and a convent of Franciscans, -with a population of 14,000 souls, half whites and half mulattoes and -negroes. - -Such is the trade in live and dead cattle in this city, that the -inhabitants have not turned their attention to the cultivation of the -land, though excellently suited for cotton, cacao, and maize. Barcelona -is the emporium for the contraband goods of Trinidad, and from hence -they are dispersed through all the inland provinces. - -The value of this trade has been computed at 400,000 dollars annually. -Hides, tallow, oxen, mules, jirked and salted beef, form the great -commercial articles of this port; this trade is chiefly carried on with -the Havannah and West India Islands. - -In the jurisdiction of Barcelona, which declared itself independent in -the year 1811, commence those immense plains that stretch with those of -Caraccas, as far south as the Orinoco. They are covered with excellent -pasturage, and feed innumerable herds of cattle and mules, which are -mostly kept on the banks of the rivers. Such immense quantities were -killed before the breaking out of the present commotions, that the -trade was at one time very considerable, the inhabitants of Barcelona -being noted for their skill in salting meat; but just after the first -symptoms of this struggle, the plains became infested with robbers, who -deprived the owners of their beasts, and greatly lessened the value of -the trade. - -The other towns of Cumana are chiefly missionary establishments seated -near the rivers, and on the great plains, the greater part of the -country being yet in a state of nature. Of these towns the principal -one is _Cumanacoa_, twelve leagues distant from Cumana, on a plain -surrounded with lofty mountains, which was founded in 1717, by Domingo -Arias, on his return from the Guaripiche river, where some Frenchmen -had attempted to plant a colony; it was at first called San Baltazar -de las Arias, but soon lost that appellation, for its present one. -The climate of this place is mild, and even cold, although it is not -more than 630 feet above the sea, owing probably to the abundance of -rain, to the frequency of thick fogs, and to being surrounded by humid -forests. - -The dry season begins here in the winter solstice, and lasts till the -vernal equinox. Light showers are frequent in April, May and June; the -dry weather again commences, and lasts to the end of August, when the -winter rains set in, which only cease in November; and during this -interval, the country is deluged with water. - -The environs of Cumanacoa are very fertile, and are chiefly cultivated -with tobacco, with which article it supplies the whole province. Indigo -is also grown here and in this town; the population amounts to about -2300 souls. - -The road from Cumana over the Imposible, through the forest, to -Cumanacoa, passes by the mission of St. Fernando, of the Chayma -Indians. It is described as highly picturesque. The forest consists -of trees, whose trunks are of the largest dimensions, and which are -clasped in every direction by creeping or parasitical plants, of -which the lianas reach to the very summits of the trees, and pass -from one to another, at the height of more than a hundred feet, -displaying beautiful festoons of dark green leaves, intermixed with -the most fragrant and splendid flowers. Under these arcades, which -scarcely admit the rays of the sun, the traveller proceeds, viewing, -at intervals only, the deep blue of the sky. The parrots, macaws, -and innumerable tribes of birds of the most brilliant plumage, -are continually hovering about, and here the oriole builds his -bottle-shaped and pendant nest. The screaming of the parrots actually -drowns the roar of small cataracts which here and there fall from the -rocky mountains. - -On quitting this forest path to go to St. Fernando, the country is -open for a short space, and the road is now lined with the bamboo or -guadua, whose elegant form, agitated by the slightest winds, strikes -the European traveller with the most agreeable sensations. We shall -describe the village of St. Fernando, as a type of all the other -missionary settlements, which are too numerous to name. - -The huts of the Indians are built of mud or clay, strengthened by the -stems of the lianas, and are disposed into streets, very wide and -straight, and crossing each other at right angles, the whole appearing -very neat. The gardens are either in, or at a short distance from the -village, and each family possesses one which they cultivate, together -with a large plot of ground, common to all, and called the conuco, at -which the grown-up young men and women are obliged to work one hour in -the morning and one in the evening. In the missions near the coast, -this conuco is generally an indigo or sugar plantation, the profits of -which are divided by the priest, for the support of the church and the -village. - -The great square of San Fernando is situated in the centre of the -village; in it is placed the church, the priest's house, and the Casa -del Rey, or king's-house, destined for the accommodation of travellers. -The priest governs the people in their spiritual and temporal affairs, -but the parish officers are always chosen from among the Indians; a -matter of necessity, as no whites are to be found in these settlements. -They have their governor, alguazil, mayor and militia officers, and the -company of archers have their colours, and perform their exercise at -stated periods, shooting at a mark. - -The villages in which the Europeans or Creoles are settled, and in -which Indians are occasionally found occupying a distinct part, are -called _doctrinas_, and differ entirely from the missions. Of these -there are many on the side of the country nearest the coast, the -missions being mostly in the interior. - -Near Cumanacoa, is the great mountain called Tumiriquiri, where an -enormous wall of rock rises out of the forest, and is joined on the -west by the Cerro de Cuchivano, where the chain is broken by an -enormous precipice more than 900 feet in width, filled with trees, -whose branches are completely interlaced with each other. The Rio -Juagua traverses this crevice, which is the abode of the jaguar, or -American tiger, of a very formidable size, being six feet in length. -They carry off the horses and cattle in the night from the neighbouring -farms, and are as much dreaded as the most ferocious of the feline race -are in the East Indies. Two immense caverns open into this precipice, -from which flames occasionally rush out that may be seen in the night -at a great distance. - -The great mountain of _Tumiriquiri_ is situated on the road to -Caripe, the chief mission of the Chaymas, which passes over the -summit of a lower part of the chain, which bears the general name of -the _Cocollar_. From the summit of this last chain, at more than two -thousand feet in height, the eye wanders over the immense plains which -reach towards the banks of the Orinoco, in the ravines alone of which -can be distinguished any trees, and these but thinly scattered; the -remainder of the surface is covered with an uniform coat of long waving -grass, intermixed with flowering shrubs. - -From this point the traveller ascends towards the Tumiriquiri; the -road is partly traversed on horseback, but soon becomes too steep and -slippery for these animals. - -The round summit of the Tumiriquiri is covered with turf, and is -elevated more than 4400 feet above the ocean. This elevation gradually -diminishes towards the west by a ridge of steep rocks, and is -interrupted at the distance of a mile by an immense crevice, which -descends towards the gulf of Cariaco. Beyond this two enormous peaks -arise, the northernmost of which, named the _Cucurucho of Tumiriquiri_, -is more than 6500 feet in height, surpassing that of the Brigantin with -which it is connected. These peaks are covered with mahogany, javillo, -and cedar trees, of an enormous size, whose shades are frequented -by tigers and other wild beasts, which are hunted now and then for -the sake of their beautiful skins. The view from the summit of this -mountain is very fine; the chain which extends from west to east is -seen in all its forms; its ridges running parallel to each other at -short distances, form longitudinal valleys, intersected by crevices -worn by the waters in their passage to the Orinoco or the sea. The sea -bounds the prospect on the north, and the immeasurable plains form -its horizon on the south. The rivers Colorado and Guaripiche rise in -the chain of the Cocollar, and mingle their streams near the east -coast of Cumana. The Colorado at its mouth is very broad, and the -Guaripiche more than twenty-five fathoms deep; and between this river -and the Areo which falls into it, are some springs of petroleum. Beyond -Tumiriquiri the road descends the mountains towards Caripe, by the -mission of _San Antonio_ across savannahs strewed with large blocks -of stone, over a thick forest lying on two steep ridges called Los -Yepes and Fantasma, into a valley in which are the missions of _San -Antonio_ and _Guanaguana_, which are separated by the rivers Colorado -and Guaripiche. Guanaguana valley is divided from that of Caripe, by a -ridge called the _Cuchillo de Guanaguana_, which is difficult to pass, -the path being often only fourteen inches broad and extremely slippery, -as the slope is covered with grass. - -These paths are traversed on mules, whose footing is so sure, that -accidents rarely occur. The height of the Cuchillo is about 3430 feet, -and the descent to Caripe is by a winding path through a forest; and -as the valley is high, the journey is short and easy. Here the climate -is mild and delightful, but in the valley of Guanaguana it is hot and -unwholesome; so great is the difference which is experienced in this -country in passing from one side of a mountain to the other. The height -of the convent of _Caripe_, in which the missionary monks reside, -is 2575 feet above the sea, in 10 deg. 10' 14" north-latitude; and this -appears to be the only high valley of Cumana, which is well inhabited. - -The convent is seated on a delightful plain, backed with an immense -wall of perpendicular rocks, covered with plants; the ceiba and palms -show their gigantic and elegant forms, numberless springs gush out on -every side, and it is difficult to imagine a more picturesque spot than -that which these priests have chosen. The cultivation of the valley -adds to the natural beauty of the scene, as the gardens of the Indians -are filled with plantains, papaws, and all the fruit-bearing plants -common to the tropical regions. - -The conuco or common plantation contains maize, the sugar cane, -culinary plants, and coffee trees. Near this valley is the cavern -of the Guacharo, three leagues from the convent towards the west. -This cave gives its name to the range of mountains in which it is -situated. The cavern is pierced in the face of the perpendicular side -of the lofty Guacharo mountain, the access to its mouth being rather -difficult, on account of the numerous little torrents which cross the -valley. Its entrance is towards the south, and forms an arch eighty -feet broad, and seventy-two high, surmounted with rocks, covered by -gigantic trees; festoons of creeping plants throw themselves across -the chasm, and variegate the scene with the beautiful and vivid tints -of their flowers; a river issues from the vault which continues at the -same height as at its entrance for a considerable distance; and arums, -heliconias and palms, follow the banks of the stream for thirty or -forty paces into the interior. It is not necessary to use torches for -430 feet from the mouth, as the grotto keeps the same direction, and -forms but one channel from south-east to north-west; when the day-light -fails, the hollow murmuring sound of a vast number of nocturnal birds, -inhabiting the recesses of the cave, may be distinguished; advancing -further by the help of lights the whole rock is seen covered with the -nests of these birds, which are called Guacharoes, and are of the -size of a fowl, with a crooked bill, feathers of a dark bluish grey, -mixed with specks of black, the head, wings and tail, being studded -with large white heart-shaped spots edged with black; the spread of -the wings is three feet and a half; its eye, which is blue and small, -cannot endure the light of day, these birds quitting the cavern only at -night in search of the fruits on which they exist; their nests are seen -by fixing a torch at the end of a pole, and are generally on the very -highest parts of the arch. - -The Indians enter this cave once a year to destroy the young for the -sake of a layer of fat, with which the abdomen is covered. These people -construct temporary huts at the mouth of the cavern, and melt the fat -in pots of clay, over brushwood fires; this fat is called the butter -of the guacharo, is transparent, half liquid, without smell, and so -pure as to keep more than a year without becoming rancid; the monks -purchase this oil of the natives for culinary purposes. Notwithstanding -this annual destruction of the birds, their numbers do not sensibly -diminish, as it is conjectured that other guacharoes re-people the -grotto from neighbouring caves, which are inaccessible to man. - -The river which runs through the cave, is from twenty-eight to thirty -feet in width, and can be traced into the recesses for a considerable -distance, the cave preserving its altitude and regular form for 1458 -feet; farther than this the river forms a small cascade over a hill -covered with vegetation; and surrounded with stalactites; after this -ascent the grotto contracts its height to forty feet, still preserving -the same dimensions; here the bottom is covered with a black mould on -which plants, deposited accidentally by the birds, have vegetated; -their characters are however so much changed by want of light and air -that it is impossible to recognise the species. Beyond this spot the -cries of the birds were so shrill and piercing that no persuasions -could induce the Indians to proceed, and M. De Humboldt was obliged -unwillingly to return. - -This subterraneous river is the source of the Rio Caripe, which joining -the river Santa Maria a few leagues distant, is navigable for canoes, -and falls into the river Areo under the name of Canno de Terezen. - -The forests of this and of every other part of Cumana are peopled -with numerous tribes of monkeys, of which the araguato is the most -common and singular; it is three feet in height from the top of the -head to the tail, with a reddish brown bushy coat of fur which covers -its whole body, being very fine on the belly and breast; its face -is of a blackish blue, and covered with a delicate wrinkled skin; -the beard long, and its eye, voice and gait, denoting melancholy; -when domesticated they have not that vivacity which most monkeys -are celebrated for; on the rains, or any sudden change of weather -approaching, the howling noises made by this creature are beyond -conception dismal, and add, during a storm, to the horrors of the -uninhabited wilds in which the traveller finds himself alone, and -unprotected. - -Near Cumana, at the farther end of the gulf of Cariaco, is the -little town of _Cariaco_, in the middle of a large plain filled with -plantations, huts and groups of cocoa and palms; on a hill behind this -town, at some distance, and named Buenavista, may be seen the range of -mountains which stretch towards the east under the names of Sierra de -Paria and Areo; from this hill it is said the most extensive view is to -be had which can be seen on the coast of Cumana. - -The town of Cariaco is small and very unhealthy, owing to the great -heat of the climate, the humidity arising from the surrounding plains -and the exhalations from the shallow mere or lake Campona. - -The number of inhabitants of this town amounted in 1800 to 6000, and -the population is on the increase. Its chief commerce is in cotton -of a fine quality; Cumana and Barcelona exported 18,000 quintals of -this article in 1800, of which the town of Cariaco furnished six or -7000. Cacao is also attended to, but the cultivation of this plant -does not flourish. The sugar cane has of late become an object of much -speculation at Cariaco, where considerable quantities of it are now -grown. - -From Cariaco the gulf stretches to Cumana, its northern shore being -naked, dry, and rocky, while the south coast is covered the whole way -with plantations of cocoa nut trees; and between Cumana and Cariaco -is the small village of _Mariguitar_, seated in the midst of these -plantations. - -Eastward of Cariaco the range of mountains continue to bend towards -the promontory of Paria; they contain in their bosom, a short distance -from Cariaco a large lake, four or five leagues in diameter, called -Putacuao, which communicates with the river Areo. These mountains are -visited only by the Indians, and are haunted by the great boa serpent. -This part of Cumana, as well as all the country lying towards the east, -is nearly uninhabited by Europeans, but a new town has lately been -founded at Punta de Piedra, opposite Spanish harbour in Trinidad; and -people are daily forming settlements along the coast and in the fertile -valleys of the interior; of which, _Concepcion del Pao_, forty-five -leagues south of Barcelona, fifty-five from Cumana, and twenty-eight -south-east of Caraccas, has lately been raised to the rank of a city, -and contains 2300 persons, mostly proprietors of cattle and land in the -northern plains of the Orinoco. - -The provinces of Barcelona and Cumana contain about 100,000 -inhabitants, of which the Indians compose more than one-half, 24,000 -inhabiting New Andalusia alone, without including the Guaraounoes of -the islands of the Orinoco; and who, as it were, command the mouths of -this fine river, which extend along the sea-coast for more than sixty -leagues. These mouths are very numerous, but seven of them only are -navigable. The first of these is twelve leagues south of the mouth of -the Rio Guaripiche, and is called _Grande Manamo_. The second is two -leagues south-east of the first, and is named _Canal de Pedernales_; on -the east of it is the island Guarispa, and three leagues south-west is -Isla del Soldado, at the south entrance of the gulf of Paria; these two -channels are too shallow for large vessels. - -The third is called _Capure_, and is a branch of the second, detaching -itself about seven leagues inland. - -The fourth is _Macareo_, six leagues south of Capure, navigable for -schooners and brigs, and the principal outlet between Guiana and -Trinidad, its mouth being opposite Erin river in that island. - -The fifth is called _Maruisas_, from the tribe which dwell on its -shores; it is twelve leagues south of the fourth entrance, but is -little frequented. - -Eighteen leagues farther is a branch of the _Maruisas_, which is the -sixth mouth, and is navigable for small vessels. - -Eight leagues south of this is the _Boca de los Navios_, or grand mouth -of the Orinoco, which is navigable for large ships. - -The rivers of Cumana and Barcelona which fall into the Caribbean sea, -beginning from the west are chiefly, the _Unare_, which bounds the -provinces of Venezuela and Barcelona. It is navigable for six leagues -from the sea, as far as the village of San Antonio de Clarinas. Its -whole course from the mountains is about thirty leagues from south to -north; the small river _Ipire_ joins this last at about half its course -from the interior. - -The next river eastward of any consequence is the _Neveri_, on which -Barcelona is built. The Indian name of the stream is Enipricuar; it is -infested with crocodiles, but by means of this river which rises in the -mountains of the interior, the port of Barcelona carries on its trade -in cattle and skins. - -The animals are brought from the plains behind the mountains by three -days' journey, so easy is the road, whilst it requires eight or nine -days to reach Cumana by a similar route, on account of the steepness of -the Brigantin and Imposible; this has greatly facilitated commercial -speculation, and will one day render New Barcelona an important place. - -In 1800, eight thousand mules were embarked at Barcelona for the West -India Islands, and it is computed that the plains of the government of -Caraccas furnished annually 30,000 of these animals to the Spanish, -English, and French islands. Barcelona has been lately fortified, by -having a small fort erected on an eminence on the right bank of the -Neveri, about 400 feet above the sea. But this is commanded on the -south by a more lofty hill. The distance by sea between Cumana and -Barcelona is twelve leagues, but by land considerably more, and over a -most difficult road. - -At Cumana the river _Manzanares_, which is only navigable for canoes -beyond the town, is noted only for having its shores lined with the -most fruitful plantations. Beyond Cumana, the mountains approach so -near the coast, that they leave no room for any streams of importance -to flow; and therefore proceeding round the point of Paria, and verging -towards the Orinoco, the next river we find, of any consequence, is the -_Guaripiche_ which flows into the Atlantic by a broad mouth just above -the first estuary of the Orinoco; this river rises in the interior as -has been before mentioned. - -Of the rivers which join the Orinoco and flow through the plains of -Cumana, the _Mamo_, the _Pao_, and the _Suara_ are the largest; and on -the banks of these are some newly erected settlements. - - -_PROVINCES OF VENEZUELA AND CORO._ - -The government of Venezuela comprehends Venezuela, or Caraccas Proper -and Coro. - -It is bounded on the north by the Caribbean sea; east by Barcelona; -west by Maracaybo and Varinas; and south by the great plains of -Varinas, and the Orinoco. - -This extensive government was named Venezuela from the towns inhabited -by Indians which were seen by the Spaniards on the lake Maracaybo, -having a resemblance to Venice. - -In 1801 the population of Venezuela, including Varinas, amounted to -500,000 persons. - -The soil of Venezuela is fertile, and yields in abundance all the -products of the West Indies, besides many others, which those islands -do not possess. Its most noted commercial article is cacao, which is -inferior to none in the Americas; vanilla, maize, indigo, cotton, -sugar, tobacco and coffee, are a few of the richest objects of -cultivation; wild cochineal, dyewoods, medicinal drugs, gums, resins, -balsams, sarsaparilla, sassafras, liquorice, squills, storax, cassia -and aloes, here find that climate the most favourable to their growth; -and the immense plains in the interior feed multitudes of cattle, -horses and mules, and in the valleys and mountains, sheep and deer are -numerous. All kinds of game are found in this country, the rivers of -which also abound with fish. - -The climate of Venezuela is modified according to the situation of its -districts in the mountains, on the coast or on the plains; on the coast -and in the plains a scorching heat prevails, accompanied in the latter -with deluges of rain. In the mountain valleys the air is in general -pure and mild, and in some elevated parts even cold. - -These mountains, which form a part of the great branch extending from -the west to the gulf of Paria, divide the lands of the coast from the -plains of the valley of the Orinoco. Their surface is rent in every -direction by the force of subterraneous convulsions; it is on these -mountains that the climate is so singularly altered that a traveller -may observe the fruits of the tropics luxuriating at a short distance -from those of Europe. To the south of this chain the Llanos or plains, -which stretch to the Orinoco are inhabited solely by herds of cattle -tended by mulattoes, who are as nearly in a state of nature as the -beasts they guard. - -On the plains of Venezuela, the rainy season commences in April, and -continues till November. The rains fall oftener in the morning than in -the evening, and on an average generally occupy three hours of each -day; during which period, the plains nearest the rivers are converted -into lakes of immense extent. - -For about a century after this country was subdued by the Spaniards, -all their thoughts were turned towards its mineral productions, and -the pearl fishery on its coasts. But being disappointed in their -expectations of finding immense riches from these sources, they at -last turned their attention to the cultivation of the soil. They first -planted cacao trees, and so abundant were the profits which this -labour yielded, that cacao alone occupied their fields till a very -late period. About the year 1774 indigo plantations appeared, and -immense plains, hitherto desert, were soon covered with this plant, -which was speedily followed by cotton, sugar, tobacco, coffee, &c., but -notwithstanding the aptitude of the soil, and the genial nature of the -climate, agriculture still languishes in these fine regions, partly -from want of enterprise, and active industry, and partly from a too -great confidence in the prolific nature of the soil. - -Besides the articles before mentioned, the forests of Venezuela -produce every species of timber fit for the purposes of the joiner, -the cabinet-maker, the carpenter, or the shipwright. Cedar is used for -their door-posts, window-frames, tables, &c. Black, red, and yellow -ebony are common. Mahogany, brasiletto, and all sorts of ornamental -woods are abundant, so much so that the workman would be puzzled in -his choice of the finest; but the immense forests which overspread -the chain of mountains, remain unexplored, and continue to be the -receptacles of ferocious animals and venomous reptiles. - -The lakes of Venezuela are not numerous, for we can hardly give that -appellation to the sheets of water produced by the periodical swell of -the Orinoco, or the rains, and which are generally without any depth; -the lake of Valencia has been already described. - -The rivers of Venezuela are more numerous than in any other part of -Spanish America. Every valley has its stream, and though many of them -are not of sufficient size to be navigable, yet all afford ample -supplies of water to irrigate the plantations on their banks. The -principal of these, which run from the mountains of Caraccas and Coro -into the Caribbean sea, are the _Guiges_, _Tocuyo_, _Aroa_, _Yaracuy_, -and the _Tuy_. - -The _Guiges_ falls into that sea sixteen leagues west of the city of -Coro; the _Tocuyo_ discharges its waters twenty-five leagues east of -the Guiges or Gaigues; its source is fifteen leagues south of the town -of Carora, at the distance of nearly one hundred miles from the ocean; -and it is navigable as far as the village of Banagua, at the distance -of forty leagues from its mouth; its banks furnishing abundance of -timber of the largest size, and fit for every kind of building. The -_Aroa_ rises in the mountains, west of the town of St. Felipe, -and enters the ocean near Burburata bay. The _Yaracuy_ is another -river which enters the Caribbean sea, near the latter; and the _Tuy_ -discharges itself into the sea, thirty leagues east of La Guayra; it -rises in the mountains of St. Pedro, ten leagues from the capital, -and being joined by the _Guayra_, becomes navigable, and serves to -transport the produce of the cultivated plains or valleys of Aragoa, -Tacata, Cua, Sabana, Ocumara, Santa Lucia and Santa Teresa, through -which it passes, and which particularly abound in cacao of the best -quality. - -The rivers which rise on the southern side of the chain, and flow to -the Orinoco, are the _Guarico_, which receives some of the branches of -the Apure, and then following a course parallel to that river, enters -the Orinoco a short distance eastward of it. The islands formed by the -junctions of the Apure and Guarico are three in number; the first, near -the town of St. Fernando de Apure, is called _Isla de Blanco_; the -second, which is very large, and is north of the Indian town of Santa -Barbara, is named _Isla del Apurito_; and the third, which is between -the mouths of the Guarico and Apure, is the _Isla de las Garzitas_. -The Guarico, which is a very fine river, is joined near its confluence -with the Orinoco, by the _Rio Mancapra_, which flows through the plains -of Calabozo. The _Iguane_, the _Cachivamo_, and several others which -fertilise the vast uninhabited plains of the Orinoco, flow into that -river west of the junction of the great Apure. Most of these swell in -the month of April, and continue to overflow their banks during three -or four months, covering the low lands in their neigbourhood; they -abound in alligators and fish. The _Portughuesa_, which is formed by -the union of the two rivers, the _Pao_ and the _Barquisimeto_, flows -through the greater part of Venezuela, and joins the Apure forty miles -north-west of its mouth. - -_Commerce._--The relation of the commercial undertakings of these -provinces will necessarily comprehend those of all the governments of -Caraccas, the produce of each being nearly the same. - -The settlement of the Dutch at Curacoa, in 1634, first roused the -inhabitants of Caraccas to exert their minds in agricultural pursuits: -cacao and hides were soon exported in sufficient quantities to answer -the purposes of carrying on an exchange trade with the Dutch for -such articles of European produce as were necessary to the colonists -of Venezuela. This trade became so brisk, that the mother country -thought it time to interfere; edicts were issued to suppress it, -and two vessels were freighted from Spain with merchandise for the -colony, for which enormous duties were charged: the Dutch accordingly -commenced a contraband trade, and so greatly undersold the Spanish -merchants, that they were left until 1700, in quiet possession of the -traffic. From 1700 to 1730, the merchants of Spain endeavoured to -revive their speculations, but the activity of the Hollanders was so -great, that they were undersold in every article; at this period, the -annual produce of the Caraccas in cacao alone was 65,000 quintals (of -1600 ounces to each quintal); the exports through the royal custom -houses amounted to 21,000, so that the Dutch received the remaining -44,000 quintals in their smuggling vessels. The court of Madrid -viewing this decrease of its revenues, resolved to put a stop to the -intercourse of the foreigners by forcible methods, and confiscations -of property, fines and punishments were inflicted on every person -discovered engaging in commerce with the Dutch. Notwithstanding these -measures, the contraband trade still continued, and the means taken -not being found to answer the proposed end, it was at last suggested -that a company should be created to monopolize the whole export and -import trade of the captain-generalship. This was accordingly done, -and such was the vigilance of the members of this company, that the -unlawful trade was soon destroyed, and they succeeded by their constant -supplies, and by purchasing every article which could be turned to -account, in giving complete satisfaction to the colonies. In 1742, this -mercantile body, known by the appellation of the Caraccas and Guipuscoa -Company, obtained an exclusive grant of the monopoly of the trade; but -in consequence of the discontent which this concession raised in the -minds of the colonists, a board was appointed, composed of an equal -number of members of the company and of planters, the governor-general -being president; this board was to regulate the prices at which the -planters and company should respectively exchange their merchandise, at -the same time permitting the cacao growers to export one-sixth of their -cacao to Spain, on their own account in the company's ships. To prevent -all irregular supply, ten armed vessels were built, carrying 86 guns -and 518 men, and 102 men were equipped on shore, to guard the harbours. - -Immense warehouses were constructed at the different ports, and -advances of money without interest were made to the cultivators. -Flourishing villages arose in every direction, and the land was -converted from immense marshes and forests to smiling plantations. In -1735, 65,000 quintals of cacao were only exported, whilst in 1763, the -amount of this article increased to 110,650 quintals. Cattle multiplied -rapidly in the vast plains on the south, and hides were added to the -other objects of the export trade. From this time the duties paid at -the various custom houses, was so great, that Caraccas was no longer -supplied with remittances from Mexico, to defray the expences of -its government. But with all these advantages, which lasted only a -short time, the directors of the company assumed powers foreign to -the intentions under which their grant was conferred, they became -corrupt; and such was the state of the trade from the abuses they daily -committed, that, in 1778, the court of Madrid opened the ports of -Venezuela and Spain reciprocally to each other. New regulations were -adopted, and the trade of the colony gradually increased till 1796, -when it experienced a check from the operations of the maritime warfare -so vigorously carried on by Great Britain at that period. At present -it is not in a very flourishing state, owing to the dreadful struggle -which has existed between the mother country and her colonies. - -_Capital._--The capital of Venezuela is _Caraccas_, which is also the -metropolis of the captain-generalship, and has already been described. -_Coro_ is the principal place of the province of that name, and is -situated in 11 deg. north-latitude, and 72 deg. 30' west-longitude, on -an isthmus which divides the gulf of Venezuela or Maracaybo, from the -Caribbean sea: it was founded in 1527, and was the second settlement -made by Europeans on this coast. - -Coro was considered, for a long while, the capital of Venezuela, -till in 1576, when the governor transferred his residence to Leon -de Caraccas, since which time no person of high rank, excepting the -bishop, remains at Coro. - -This city is placed on a dry sandy plain, covered with Indian figs or -plants of the cactus family; it is supplied with fruit and vegetables -from some fertile plains three leagues distant. - -The inhabitants, who amount to 10,000, are in general not rich, -possessing little activity or enterprise; many of them pride -themselves, on account of being descended from the conquerors of the -country. Some trade is carried on among them with the West India -islands in mules, hides, goats, coarse pottery ware, cheese, &c. which -are all brought from the interior. Their chief commercial relations -are with Curacoa, from which island, they are distant only a day's sail. - -Coro contains but few negroes, as the laborious work is performed by -the Indians who inhabit the suburbs. Such is the scarcity of water, -that the city is supplied from a distance of two miles, by means of -mules and asses, laden with that necessary aliment. - -The streets of Coro are regular, but the houses are mean, and the city -is not paved, its public buildings being a church, and a small convent -of Franciscans. The local government is lodged in a council, of which -the commandant of the place is president. - -Its port lies open from north to north-east and neither its -accommodations, nor the commodities it trades in, are sufficient to -render it a place of much resort. - -The peninsula, which lies to the north of Coro, is called Paragoana, -and the isthmus is about a league in width, from which the peninsula -stretches from south-west to north-west for twenty leagues. It is -inhabited by people of colour and Indians, who breed great quantities -of cattle on it, which they ship off clandestinely to Curacoa, that -island being supplied from this place with meat and vegetables, by open -boats, which cross over daily. - -Coro is 80 leagues west of Caraccas, 65 north of Maracaybo, and 33 -north-west of Barquisimeto. - -The next place of note in the government of Venezuela, is _Porto -Cavello_, or _Puerto Cabello_, 30 leagues north-east of Caraccas, in -10 deg. 20' north latitude, and 69 deg. 11' west longitude. It lies in -a fine harbour, in the Golfo Triste, near Curacoa, to the neighbourhood -of which island it owes its importance. - -_Burburata_, a village and harbour, a league to the east of Porto -Cavello, was originally the port of Venezuela, and was founded for that -purpose in 1549. The harbour of Puerto Cabello, being well adapted for -carrying on a contraband trade with Burburata, its shores were soon -settled by fishermen, and many Dutch smugglers erected huts there. Such -was the boldness and enterprising spirit of these people, that all the -efforts of the Spaniards were unable to check them, and they continued -their unlawful trade under the eyes of the local authorities. When the -Guipuscoa company obtained their final charter, they ejected the most -troublesome of these people by force, built a town, a wharf, and forts -for its defence; and they also erected immense warehouses, some of -which still remain. - -The site of this town was a small peninsula, the neck of which was -almost under water; this isthmus was cut through, a canal formed, and -the town detached from the suburbs. - -The exterior buildings are by far the most numerous, they are however -built very irregularly, and the island town is chiefly occupied by -the forts and warehouses; the communication between the two being by -a bridge over the canal, at the end of which is placed a gate that is -always closed at night. - -The population of this town amounts to about 8000, their sole -employment being navigation and commerce, and their principal -connection is with the continental harbours and the islands. About 60 -vessels are employed in the coasting, and four or five in the European -trade. It is the place of resort for ships requiring repair, and some -vessels are built here; and it may also be said to be the entrepot of -eastern Venezuela. - -The climate is very hot and unhealthy, which prevents its becoming a -place of importance. - -Puerto Cabello is supplied with water by canals from a river a league -to the west, and distributed to the public in cisterns, built at proper -distances. - -It has one parish church near the harbour, and two hospitals, one for -the soldiers, and one for private persons; and the local authority is -vested in the hands of the commandant. - -This place was attacked by the English in 1743, but they lost many men, -and were obliged to relinquish the undertaking. - -Porto Cavello is 30 leagues from La Guayra by sea, 48 by land, from -Caraccas, following the road through the towns of Valencia, Maracay, -Tulmero, Victoria and San Pedro. - -_Carora_, an inland town, in 10 deg. north latitude, lying on the Morera -river, is 110 miles north-east of Gibraltar, on the lake Maracaybo, -and contains a population of 6200 souls, resembling in its commerce, -inhabitants, &c.-- - -_Tocuyo_, a large town, in 9 deg. 35' north latitude, and 70 deg. 20' -west longitude, seated in a fine valley between two ranges of high -mountains. The city of Tocuyo is very regularly built, the streets -being all wide and straight, containing a church, chapel and two -monasteries. - -In this city, the climate is very fine and wholesome, owing to the -vicinity of high mountains, but the air is occasionally cold. The -inhabitants who amount to 10,200, are in general artizans, traders, -graziers, and agriculturists. - -The wheat of Tocuyo is reckoned the best in the province, and furnishes -flour to many towns of the interior. Manufactories of woollens are also -established, in which coverlids, blankets, &c., are made, and sent to -Maracaybo, and even as far as Carthagena. Tanneries and taweries supply -work to a great part of the inhabitants, who work up as much of the raw -materials as they can find hands to do, and export the rest. Salt from -the salt ponds of Coro affords a lucrative article of traffic to the -merchants of this town. Tocuyo is 90 leagues south-west of Caraccas, -and 20 north of Truxillo. - -_Guanara_, on a river of the same name, that flows into the -Portughuesa, which furnishes the inhabitants with excellent water, and -fertilizes the land by its overflowings; on the western parts of this -stream, the country is very fruitful; and on the south and east are the -immense plains of Varinas. - -The chief wealth of the people of Guanara consists in cattle, of which -they possess immense herds. They supply the provinces of Caraccas with -vast numbers of oxen and mules, and export their surplus by Coro, -Puerto-Cavello, or Guiana. - -This city consists of a number of streets disposed in an uniform -and regular manner, and the houses, though not sumptuous, are well -built. The church is large, handsome, and much adorned, and there is -a very good hospital. The image of Nuestra Senora de Comoroto, which -is supposed to have a particular virtue, attracts a great concourse -of devotees from the neighbouring provinces, and renders Guanara a -lively place; it is 93 leagues south-west of Caraccas, in 8 deg. 14' -north latitude, and 69 deg. 54' west longitude. - -_Barquisimeto_, which contains a population of 11,300 souls, is -situated in 8 deg. 55' north latitude, and 66 deg. 55' west longitude; -120 miles west-south-west of Caraccas, 450 north-north-east of Santa Fe, -45 north-north-east of Tocuyo, 80 miles south of Valencia, and 175 -north-west of Calaboza, on a small river of the same name, which joins -the Portughuesa. It was founded in 1552, after the surrounding country -had been reduced, and is one of the oldest cities of Venezuela; being -placed on a plain at such an elevation, that it enjoys every cool -breeze from the river, and owing to this happy situation, the great -heat of the climate becomes supportable. The north-east winds are the -most constant, and whenever these do not blow, the thermometer rises to -82 deg. and 84 deg. of Fahrenheit. - -The inhabitants pasture the plains with herds of cattle, and find this -a lucrative occupation, and an easy method of making use of their -time; but they also cultivate the valleys, which produce cacao of an -excellent quality, owing to the periodical overflowing of the stream; -and the sides of the mountains are now planted with coffee-trees, which -only require a little more care to be of the purest quality. The houses -of Barquisimeto are well built, and the streets are on a wide, regular, -and good plan. Its church is a handsome structure, and the luxury of -its ornaments, as well as the general aspect of the city, show the ease -and affluence in which the inhabitants, who are mostly Europeans and -their descendants, live. - -The city is governed by a lieutenant-governor, and common council. - -_Victoria_ is situated on the road leading from Caraccas to Puerto -Cavello, six leagues east of Tulmero. It was founded by the -missionaries, and for a long time consisted wholly of Indians, till the -fruitful nature of the valley of Aragoa drew a number of whites to it. -The lands were soon cultivated, and Victoria was covered with houses -instead of huts. - -The principal ornament of this place is a handsome church, so large -that it might well be termed a cathedral; the number of inhabitants of -the town is about 8000. - -_Tulmero_ is another town in the same fertile valley at six leagues -distance west of the latter, and two from Maracay. This town is modern, -well built, and the residence of a number of tobacco, coffee, indigo, -cacao, &c., planters, but has been peculiarly the abode of the officers -appointed to the administration of the tobacco farm; it is embellished -with a handsome church and neat private buildings, and is governed -by a lieutenant; a vicar also resides here, for the direction of -ecclesiastical affairs. - -The population is about 8000 souls. - -_Maracay_, forty miles south-west of Caraccas, is also seated in the -same rich vale of Aragoa, and is a beautiful new town famous for the -excellent chocolate made in its neighbourhood. The inhabitants who are -mostly descendants of Biscayan Spaniards, have been computed to amount -to 8500, who cultivate indigo, cacao, cotton, coffee and grain. - -_Valencia_ in 10 deg. 9' north latitude, and 68 deg. 25' west longitude, -sixteen miles south-west of Caraccas, was founded in consequence of -Faxardo, one of the conquerors having greatly praised the surrounding -country; it was first built by Villacinda in 1555, with the view of -establishing a port near the capital; but Alonzo Diaz Moreno afterwards -preferred a scite more distant from lake Tacarigua (now Valencia), and -he accordingly removed the colony half a league west of the lake to a -beautiful plain, where the air was pure and the soil fertile. - -The population of this city is said to be about 8000 souls, mostly -creoles, of good families, with some Biscayans and Canarians; the -streets are wide and well paved, and the houses built like those of -Caraccas, but not of stone. This town has a beautiful square, in which -the church, a very pretty structure, stands. In 1802 another church -was built and dedicated to Nuestra Senora de la Candelaria; and the -Franciscans have a monastery which has also a neat church. - -The inhabitants were formerly noted for their indolence, but have -lately become active and industrious, and the situation of the place is -peculiarly favourable for trade, being separated from Puerto Cavello -by only ten leagues of good road. Every commodity landed at that port -for the consumption of the provinces of the interior passes through -Valencia, which necessarily causes much traffic. The adjacent country -produces every sort of provision and fruits in great abundance, and the -plains feed immense herds of cattle, with sheep, horses and mules, so -that its markets are well supplied. Near it is the lake of Valencia, -which has been described already. - -Valencia, with the towns of Victoria and Barquisimeto, suffered very -much from the earthquake which overthrew Caraccas, La Guayra, Merida -and the villages of San Felipe and Maiqueta, on the 26th of March, 1812. - -_Ocumara_, though only a village, is celebrated for having a very fine -port, the entrance to which has a battery for eight pieces of cannon. -Ocumara is five leagues east of Porto Cabello; the port is excellent -and well sheltered, with fine moorings. The village is about a league -distant from the anchoring place on a small river of the same name, -which, after fertilizing a fine valley, enters the sea at the foot of -the fort. Between this bay and La Guayra are the bays of _Choroni_, -_Puerto_, _La Cruz_, _Los Arecifes_ and _Catia_, and between Ocumara, -or Seinega de Ocumara are the bays of _Turiamo_, _Burburata_, and -_Paranego_, from all of which the inhabitants of the coasts export -their produce to La Guayra, Porto Cavello, or the West Indies, as -each of these afford fine anchoring places for vessels. In the bay of -Burburata there is a village, formerly a place of consequence, but -principally of note for the number of mules which it exports. - -_San Carlos_ was formerly a missionary village, which owes its present -beauty to the luxuriancy of the surrounding country; it is twenty-eight -leagues south-south-west of Valencia, in 9 deg. 20' north latitude; the -climate is very hot, but owing to the prevalence of the north-east wind -it is much ameliorated. The inhabitants amount to 9500, composed of -Spaniards from the Canaries, and Creoles, and are engaged in rearing -cattle, horses and mules, which form their chief riches; the quality of -the soil is so good that it gives an exquisite flavour to the fruits, -particularly to its oranges, which are celebrated throughout the -province. - -Indigo and coffee are the chief articles cultivated at San Carlos, and -the town is large, handsome, and well laid out. - -_Araura_ on the shore of the river Acarigua is north-north-east of -Truxillo, in a fertile country, where numerous herds of cattle are -reared, and cotton and coffee are cultivated; this town, which was, -till lately, a missionary village, contains a fine square, a handsome -church, and several streets of well built houses. - -_Calaboso_ was also a mission until lately; it was formed into a town -for the sake of those Spanish owners who wished to be near their cattle -which roam on the vast plains of the same name. - -It is situated between the rivers Guarico and Orituco, which unite -their waters four or five leagues below the town, and then flow into -the Apure. - -The number of inhabitants in this new town is 4800, and it has 116 -settlements in its jurisdiction, containing 1186 free Indians, 3100 -people of colour, and 943 slaves. It is fifty-two leagues south of -Caraccas, and about the same distance from the Orinoco, in 8 deg. 40' -north latitude. - -_San Juan del Pao_ is also inhabited by the proprietors of the cattle -on the plains, and consists of a church and several handsome streets on -the Pao, which runs into the Orinoco. It contains 5400 souls, and is -fifty leagues south-west of Caraccas, in 9 deg. 20' north latitude. - -_San Luis de Cura_, in 9 deg. 45' north latitude, twenty-two leagues -south-west of Caraccas, and eight leagues south-east of Lake Valencia, -possesses 4000 inhabitants, and a miraculous image of the Virgin, to -which votaries are constantly flocking. - -_St. Sebastian de los Reyes_ in 9 deg. 54' north latitude, twenty-eight -leagues south-south-west of Caraccas, and in a hot climate, contains -3500 souls. - -_St. Felipe or Cocorota_, in a very fertile soil, where cacao, indigo, -coffee, cotton and sugar are cultivated, contains 6800 inhabitants, and -is well built. It stands in 10 deg. 15' north latitude, 50 leagues west -of Caraccas, 15 leagues north-west of Valencia, and seven leagues -north-west of _Nirgua_; which place was built in the early periods of -the conquest, on account of its mines; but it is now in a decaying -state, and is inhabited only by Sambos, or the race springing from the -Indians and negroes; their number amounts to 3200. This town is in 10 deg. -south latitude, 48 leagues west of Caraccas. - -Besides the above, there are several other smaller towns, and some very -large villages in this government, which are too numerous to describe. - -The country of Venezuela is not famous for mines of gold or silver, -though some gold has occasionally been found in the streams, which rush -from the mountains; the pearl fishery of its coasts will be described -in treating of the island of Margarita. - - -_THE PROVINCE OF MARACAYBO._ - -Maracaybo, or MARACAIBO, surrounds the lake of the same name. It is -bounded on the west by Santa Marta, in New Granada; on the east by Coro -and Venezuela; on the north by Santa Marta, and the gulf of Maracaybo; -and on the south by Merida and Santa Marta. Owing to the great extent -of the lake, this province extends but a short distance inland to the -east and west, its length being about 100 leagues. - -The soil of Maracaybo is unfruitful on the banks of the lake. The east -shore is dry and unhealthy, and on the west shore the land does not -begin to be fertile for more than twenty-five leagues south of the -city. South of the lake the country may vie with the richest lands of -South America. - -In this province the population is estimated at about 100,000 souls. - -It was from the Indian towns built on posts of iron wood on the lake of -Maracaybo that the Spaniards gave the country the name of Venezuela, -or Little Venice. This country was long unknown after the conquest. -Ampues, who was governor at Coro, had engaged all the neighbouring -nations of Indians, by his conciliatory measures, to swear allegiance -to Spain, when, in 1528, Alfinger and Sailler, who had been sent, -with 400 followers, to assume the government, under the authority of -the company of the Welsers, landed at Coro. Unfortunately for the -Indians, they dispossessed Ampues of his government, and began to -search in every direction round the lake for gold; finding that their -hopes of suddenly acquiring riches from this source were not likely -to be realised, Alfinger took the resolution of penetrating into the -interior, to pillage the Indian towns, and make prisoners of as many -as he could, in order to sell them for slaves. The Indian villages -about the lake were soon destroyed; carnage and havoc spread around; -the natives were sold to the merchants from the islands, and the whole -province was a scene of horror and devastation. Alfinger did not long -survive this inhuman conduct, he met his fate in a valley, six leagues -from Pamplona, in Merida, the natives killing him there in a skirmish -in 1531. - -Two other German agents succeeded him, and continued the same barbarous -conduct towards the Indians, which coming to the knowledge of the king -of Spain, they were formally dispossessed: but it is asserted that -the traces of the crimes they committed are visible to this day. Four -villages of Maracaybo were all that escaped, and are yet standing, the -iron wood on which they are founded becoming like a mass of stone from -the petrifying quality of the water. These villages are situated on the -east part of the lake, at unequal distances from each other, and have -a church, which is also built in the water on piles, and to which the -inhabitants of all the villages resort. - -Several small rivers empty themselves into this lake: but as the -country is uninhabited, excepting by Indians, and immediately on the -shores, nothing is known with accuracy concerning them, the savage -Goahiros from La Hacha preventing all access on the western side, and -keeping the settlers continually in alarm. - -The lake is navigable for vessels of any burden, but this advantage is -sometimes rendered useless by a dangerous sand-bank across the narrow -entrance, on which vessels drawing twelve feet water will occasionally -ground. - -Near the borders of the lake, on the west, are the only parts of this -province which are cultivated, where, notwithstanding the heat of the -climate, and the insalubrity of the air, some whites have fixed their -habitations to cultivate cacao, and other plants. These settlers are -much scattered, and have a chapel placed in the centre, to which they -all occasionally resort. - -The climate of the province is in general hot and unhealthy, excepting -in the southern parts which border on the snowy mountains of Merida. - -Its chief town is the city of _Maracaybo_, in north latitude 10 deg. -30', and west longitude 71 deg. 46', on the western side of the narrow -or strait which leads into the lake at about six leagues from the sea, -on a sandy soil, and in a dry hot climate. In July and August the -air is so heated, that it seems as if it issued from a furnace: but -the most usual preventative for the ill effects of this abominable -climate is constant bathing in the lake. Thunderstorms, hurricanes, and -earthquakes, are common in this country. - -The city is built with some taste, but disfigured by having most of its -houses covered with reeds. The principal part of the town is on the -shore of a small gulf, a league in length, which extends towards the -broad part of the lake on the south, and the other part is built on the -neck to the north, where the lake is only three leagues in width. The -place where the town begins is named Maracaybo Point; that where the -gulf commences Aricta Point; opposite to which is Point Sta. Lucia. - -Maracaybo was founded in 1571 by Alonzo Pacheco, an inhabitant of -Truxillo, who gave it the name of New Zamora. It contains one parish -church, a chapel of ease, and a convent of Franciscans and is supplied -with water from the lake, which at times is brackish near this place, -when the strong breezes, especially in March, impregnate it with salt -from the spray of the sea. - -The population consists of about 24,000 persons, owing to the number -of emigrants who fled hither from St. Domingo. The great families, -or people of rank, are about thirty. The whites, or Europeans and -Creoles, apply themselves to agriculture, commerce, the fisheries and -navigation, and live very comfortably. The slaves and freemen are -composed of negroes and mulattoes, who exercise all the laborious -trades and handicrafts, and the number of slaves is about 5000. - -The best schooners which sail on the Spanish Main are built at this -city, which possesses peculiar advantages for ship-building. Though -the air is so hot, and the land so arid, yet the natives enjoy a good -state of health, and live to an old age, owing, most probably, to the -custom of frequent ablutions, as the children may be said to live in -the water, and most of the people pass their time in navigating the -lake. The young people are celebrated for their wit and ingenuity: but -the charge of a want of probity in their dealings with strangers is -brought against these people. The females are sprightly and modest, and -are extremely fond of music; the notes of the harp resounding through -the streets of an evening. The great object of veneration at Maracaybo -is an image of the Virgin, denominated Chiquinquira, the name of a -village in New Granada, from whence she was brought. - -A temple was dedicated to her worship in 1586, and immediately a -fountain rose up under the altar where she was placed; miraculous -virtues were communicated to its waters, and this image has procured a -lasting reputation in the surrounding country. - -The mariners of the lake invoke this holy shrine in all their -undertakings, and it is placed in the chapel of ease of St. Juan de -Dios. Three forts protect the harbour of Maracaybo. This place was -plundered by Michael de Basco, and Francis Lolonois, in 1667, when -they sailed up the gulf of Venezuela, with eight ships and 660 men; -they entered the strait, stormed and took the fort of La Barra which -defended it, and putting to death the garrison consisting of 250 -men, they then advanced to Maracaybo; on their arrival there, the -inhabitants abandoned the city, and removed their most valuable goods. - -Here they remained a fortnight reveling in drunkenness and debauchery, -and then proceeded to Gibraltar, which the people of Maracaybo had -newly fortified; after a severe contest, this place was also taken, but -proved a barren triumph, which so exasperated the Buccaneers, that they -set fire to the place, and threatened Maracaybo with the same fate; the -poor inhabitants collected as much property as they could, and ransomed -the city, but not before it had been gutted of every thing. - -Soon after this, Henry Morgan a Welsh adventurer attacked Porto -Bello, and succeeding in his expedition, fitted out in 1669, a fleet -of fifteen vessels, manned with 960 men, with which he sailed to -Maracaybo, silenced the fort of the Strait, reached the city, and found -it deserted; but following the people to the woods, he discovered -their treasures; he then sailed to Gibraltar, which was desolate; while -engaged in torturing the people he had made prisoners, in order to -make them produce their hidden treasures, he learnt that three Spanish -men of war, had arrived at the entrance of the lake. Summoning all the -impudence he was master of, Morgan sent an order to the commander of -the vessels to ransom the city. The answer was, as might be expected, -a denial, and direction to surrender himself immediately; to this he -replied, that if the admiral would not allow him to pass, he would find -means to do so; accordingly dividing his plunder among his vessels, -that each might have a share to defend, he sent a fire-ship into the -enemy's fleet, and having burnt two, and captured a third ship, he -made a show of landing men to attack the fort, which being thus put -off its guard, Morgan passed the bar with his whole armament, without -sustaining the slightest damage. - -Maracaybo is the seat of the governor of the province, who enjoys -the same salary, and exercises the same authority as the governor of -Cumana. This district was at one time under the jurisdiction of the -governor of Merida, but since that province has been annexed to the -viceroyalty of New Granada, and since the province of Varinas has been -formed out of part of Venezuela and part of Maracaybo, the latter has -been made a distinct government. - -On the east side of Maracaybo Lake are several small towns, of which -_Paraute_, _Las Barbacoas_, _Gibraltar_, and _San Pedro_, are the most -considerable places. - -_Paraute_ is eighty miles south of Coro, and is a small place on the -banks of the lake. - -_Las Barbacoas_ is situated a short distance farther south, and -seventy-five miles south of Coro. - -_Gibraltar_, in 10 deg. 4' north latitude, and 67 deg. 36' west longitude, -is 100 miles south-east of Maracaybo, on the eastern banks of the lake; -it is a very old town, famous for the production of a particular sort -of tobacco, called tobacco of Maracaybo, from which the best sort of -snuff, vulgarly called Maccabaw, is made. - -The country in the vicinity of this town is well watered with rivers, -and consequently grows excellent cacao. Cedars of immense size are -found in its woods, but the climate is very hot and insalubrious, -especially during the rainy season, when the merchants and planters -retire to Maracaybo or Merida. - -_San Pedro_ is a short distance south of Gibraltar, and also on the -banks of the lake. The other places being mere villages, or scattered -plantations, are not worth mentioning. - -_Truxillo_, on the confines of Merida, in 8 deg. 40' north latitude, -twenty leagues north of Merida, 105 south-west of Caraccas, and thirty -west of Guanara, is in a country producing sugar, cacao, indigo, coffee, -&c., and in which wheat is cultivated in great abundance, and forms the -chief article of the commerce of the inhabitants, who also carry the -above fruits, sweetmeats, cheese, woollens, &c. to Maracaybo, by means -of the lake, which is only twenty-five leagues distant, but the route -to which lies across the desert and unhealthy plains of Llonay. - -The inhabitants of Truxillo are an active and an industrious race; and -at present amount to 7600 souls, though the city, which is one of the -oldest on the continent, was formerly also one of the best peopled, -until it was destroyed and sacked by Francis Gramont, the Buccaneer, -who, in 1678, traversed the province of Venezuela, with a small band of -followers, attracted by the riches of this place. - -The scite of Truxillo is between two mountains, and it contains a -good parish church, a chapel of ease, two monasteries, a convent of -Dominican nuns, and an hospital. - - -_PROVINCE OF VARINAS._ - -Varinas, the next province of Caraccas, divides the territories of this -government from those of the kingdom of New Granada. - -It is bounded on the north by the provinces of Maracaybo and Venezuela, -east by the plains of Caraccas and the Orinoco, west by Merida and New -Granada, and south by Juan de los Llanos, or Casanare. - -This province was formed in the year 1787, by separating the southern -districts of Venezuela and Maracaybo, when it was also constituted -a distinct government. The chief has the title of governor, and his -functions are the same as those of Cumana and Maracaybo, in the civil, -military and ecclesiastical departments. - -In order to defend this new province, a militia was raised in 1803, and -a garrison allotted to the city of Varinas, consisting of seventy-seven -men. The chief products of this extensive country are tobacco, well -known in the European markets, and cattle, sugar, coffee, cotton, -indigo; and all the fruits of the torrid zone, find here a soil adapted -to each; and their qualities are unrivalled. - -The commodities of Varinas are exported chiefly by water to Guiana; the -place of embarkation being at a spot called Tocunos, five leagues below -the city. - -The most remarkable features of this country are the extensive plains, -of which it is mostly composed, and which are covered with a luxuriant -herbage, feeding innumerable herds of cattle, flocks of sheep, and -droves of mules and horses; these are either used in the province, or -exported by means of the Great Orinoco. - -Varinas is intersected by numerous large and navigable rivers, which -occasionally inundate and fertilize its plains. Of these, the _Apure_, -the _Portuguesa_, the _Guanarito_, the _Bocono_, _Guanapalo_, the -_Arauca_, the _Capanaparo_, the _Sinaruco_, and the Meta, are the most -noted. - -The _Apure_ rises in one of the ridges that diverge from the eastern -branch of the Andes in New Granada, in the province of Santa Fe; -its length is 170 leagues, of which forty are from north-east to -south-east, and the rest from west to east, where it joins the Orinoco -by a number of mouths, after having received many very fine rivers, -which will one day serve to render the carrying on of the trade from -the eastern district of New Granada, and the countries bordering on the -Atlantic extremely easy. These rivers are the _Tinaco_, _San Carlos_, -_Cojeda_, _Agua Blanca_, _Acarigua_, _Areyaruo_, _Hospicia_, _Abaria_, -_Portuguesa_, _Guanare_, _Tucapido_, _Bocono_, _Masparro_, _La Yuca_, -the _Santo Domingo_, _Paguay_, _Tisnados_, &c., which all come either -from the mountains of Granada, or those of Venezuela, and mingle their -waters with the Apure, in the immense plains of Varinas. - -The Santo Domingo, and Portuguesa, are the largest of these streams, -almost the whole of which unite above Santiago, and form a great body -of water, which enters the Apure twelve leagues below that place, and -twenty leagues north of the Orinoco. This immense quantity of water -gives such an impulse to the Apure, that it forces the Orinoco before -it for the space of four miles, although the latter river is there a -league in width. The shock of the meeting of these two noble rivers -is so great, that it occasions a great agitation in the middle of the -Orinoco, forming dreadful eddies and whirlpools, at which the most -dextrous Indians shudder. For the space of three leagues after the -stream of the greater river has regained its force, the waters of the -Apure are still distinguishable by their bright and crystal appearance, -after which they are lost in the muddy current of the Orinoco. The -exportation of cattle by way of Guiana takes place along the banks -of these two rivers, on account of the excellent pasturage which they -every where afford. All the traders of the eastern portion of Caraccas, -are induced by the easy means of conveyance afforded by so many -confluent streams, to send their coffee, cotton and indigo to Guiana, -instead of sending them on the backs of mules to Caraccas, or Porto -Cavello, and traveling 300 miles in a country often almost impassable, -from the inundations of the rivers. - -The _Arauca_ is a river nearly as large as the Apure, and which rises -in the mountains of Santa Fe, a short distance south of the sources of -the latter, with which it holds a parallel course, through a country -inundated by the Apure, and communicates with it near the Orinoco by -several branches before it enters that river, thus forming some large -and fertile islands. - -The _Rio Capanaparo_ rises in the marshy country south of the Arauca, -and enters the Orinoco, south of the latter river by two mouths, at -some distance from each other. - -South of this is another named the _Sinaruco_, which also rises in the -marshes, and receives an accession to its waters from the overflowings -of the Apure and the Arauca, entering the Orinoco between the -Capanaparo and the Meta. - -The _Meta_ is a noble river, which rises in the mountain ridge opposite -to Santa Fe de Bogota, and flowing through the province of Juan de los -Llanos, and the district of Casanare, it receives many other large -rivers, and enters the Orinoco, thirty leagues below the cataracts of -Ature, and 125 leagues from Santo Tome of Guiana. The Meta receives -the _Pachiquiaro_, the _Upia_, the _Cravo_, and the _Pauto_ in Juan de -los Llanos, and the _Ariporo_, the _Chire_, and the _Casanare_ (a fine -river into which flow several others) in the province or district of -Casanare. The Meta also receives several smaller streams in Varinas, -and seems destined to form vast commercial relations between the -kingdom of New Granada and the government of Caraccas. - -When the annual fleet of galleons was put a stop to, the government -issued orders that all the interior produce of New Granada should be -carried to Carthagena, and forbid every article, excepting coarse -cottons and flour to be exported by way of the Meta, which considerably -retarded the progress of the settlers in Varinas, the Llanos, and -Guiana, and put a stop to the cultivation of many articles too bulky to -be carried over such bad roads as those which descend to the Magdalena -and the Cauca. - -The banks of the Meta are inhabited chiefly by Indians, of which the -_Guahibos_ tribe occupies the country near the Orinoco; and in Juan de -los Llanos, the missionary villages, are very numerous on both banks of -the stream. - -The capital of Varinas is the city of _Varinas_ in 7 deg. 40' north -latitude, and 100 leagues south-east of Caraccas. It is a neat little -place in a tolerable climate, with one church, and an hospital. Its -inhabitants amount to about 6000, the governor of the province residing -here. - -The other towns of most consequence are _San Jayme_, _St. Fernando de -Apure_, and _San Antonio_. _St. Jayme_ is situated on the west bank of -the Portuguesa, above its junction with the Guanaparo and the Apure in -7 deg. 50' north latitude on a sand hill. The town is so environed with -water for three months, that the inhabitants cannot leave their houses -but in canoes; it is seventy-five leagues south of Caraccas. - -_St. Fernando de Apure_ is erected on the south bank of the Apure, near -its junction with the Portuguesa. This town is well built, in a hot but -healthy climate, and contains about 6000 inhabitants, whose occupation -consists in rearing mules and cattle, and their property is in large -commons, lying south of the city. - -_San Antonio_ is situated on the north bank of the Apure, just above -where it divides itself into several branches to join the Arauca, in -about 7 deg. 30' north latitude, with a village called _Bancolargo_ on -the opposite bank of the river. South of this town and between the -Capanaparo and the Sinaruco, the country is inhabited by tribes of wild -and independent Indians, who allow no settlements to be made among them. - -The whole province of Varinas on its western and northern parts is -covered with farms and small villages, mostly situated on the banks of -the different rivers. - -A road leads from the plains of Calobozo, in Venezuela, through St. -Fernando de Apura, and across the rivers to the junction of the Meta -with the Orinoco. - -This province has lately become the scene of contests between the -Spanish troops and the insurgents; particularly in the vicinity of the -Apure. - - -_PROVINCE OF GUIANA; OR, SPANISH GUIANA._ - -This immense province extends from the frontiers of Juan de los Llanos -and Quixos, in New Granada to the frontiers of British, French and -Portuguese Guiana. It is bounded on the north by the Orinoco and the -plains of Cumana, Barcelona, and Caraccas; on the east by unknown -lands between the settlements of the English and French; west by the -Orinoco and the provinces of New Granada; and south by the Portuguese -possessions. - -It has been computed to be 1000 leagues in circumference; but this vast -extent is inhabited chiefly by warlike and savage tribes of Indians, -who forbid all access into the interior. The population of those parts -which are occupied by the Spaniards, their descendants, and the -mission Indians, is computed at 34,000, this population being confined -mostly to the banks of the Orinoco. - -The precise boundaries of this country cannot be laid down, on the -west it is said to extend to the western mouth of the river Yapura, -proceeding thence almost due north. On the east it has, from Cape -Nassau, a shore of thirty leagues to the mouth of the Orinoco; thence -along that river to the Rio Portuguesa, an extent of more than 400 -leagues. The Portuguese territories on the south, were formerly bounded -by a line passing under the equator, but they have since acquired more -settlements to the north in the western parts of Guiana. - -The population of Spanish Guiana is thus divided; 19,400 Indians, under -the care of missionaries; 8000 creoles, mulattoes, &c. scattered in the -settlements, and the remainder in the capital; the villages being more -frequent at from fifty leagues from the Atlantic to about 130 up the -Orinoco. - -Guiana is subdivided into Upper and Lower Guiana, the capital being the -point of separation. The most southern fort of the Spaniards is that of -San Carlos, on the Rio Negro, in 1 deg. 53' north latitude. - -Upper Guiana comprehends all the country west of the Caroni river; few -plantations are seen there, though the soil is rich beyond imagination. -Lower Guiana is east of the Caroni, or in the space bounded by the sea -on the east, the Orinoco on the north, the Caroni on the west, and -the Essequibo on the south; than which, a more fertile soil cannot be -found, watered by numerous rivers, whose periodic overflowings deposit -a slime as prolific as the Nile; but this fine district is nearly a -waste, harbouring anthropophagical tribes, of whom the Caribs are the -most formidable, as well as sanguinary. - -The riches of the few Spaniards and creoles settled in this province, -consists in cattle, of which the missionary Franciscans alone possess -more than 150,000 head. - -The trade of Guiana consists entirely in the export of cattle and -mules, with some tobacco, cotton, and indigo, and in 1803 they had -thirty-four small vessels employed in trading to Trinidad and the -neighbouring Spanish ports. - -In the history of the discovery of Guiana much obscurity prevails; but -Martin Silva, in 1568, obtained a patent to conquer some tribes to the -westward of the present limits. After penetrating through Venezuela, -his people deserted him; when he returned to Spain, and collected new -followers. Silva then attempted to cross the country from the coast -between the Maranon and Orinoco, but he and his followers were slain -and devoured by the Caribs. The missionaries, Pizarro's brother, and -Diego Ordaz, also attempted to enter and explore Guiana, but were all -frustrated by the natives. - -Sir Walter Raleigh also twice tried to reach the pretended city of -Manoa, or El Dorado, which is supposed to have been situated in lake -Parima, and whose streets were paved with gold; which marvellous story -had most probably its origin in an Indian village, built on an island -whose soil contained mica, which glittering, and appearing splendid in -the sunshine, deceived the adventurers who had observed it. - -In later times the Spaniards have endeavoured to conquer these regions, -but have always been unsuccessful; one of them has had the courage to -cross the greater part of the country in the dress of an Indian; and -from his researches, the direction of the ranges of mountains has been -ascertained. Humboldt, also contrived to go a great distance along the -chain of the cataracts, but was prevented from exploring the sources -of the Orinoco and the celebrated lake of Parima by the _Guayecas_, a -race of Indians who, though of very diminutive stature, display the -utmost courage and activity in defending their possessions. These -people resist all persuasion to become the converts of the monks who -had visited their frontiers, and equally defy the armed force which -generally accompanies these priests. - -The rivers flowing through Guiana, which are best known, are the -_Orinoco_, into which, on the north, the _Caroni_, the _Aruy_, the -_Caura_, and several smaller ones empty themselves; on the west the -_Suapure_, the _Sippapu_, &c., join that stream, while on the south -the _Guaviare_, the _Ynritta_ and the _Atabapo_ also add to the -magnificence of its course. The _Rio Negro_ also flows through a part -of Guiana, and forms, by means of the _Cassiquiari_, a junction between -the Maranon and the Orinoco, thus constituting Guiana an immense island -detached in every direction by a broad expanse of water from the -continent of South America. - -The _Yapura_ and the _Uapes_ run through the southern or continental -parts of this province, and join the Maranon. - -Many large rivers issue from, or rise near lake Parima and the -interior; of which _Rio Branco_ and the _Siaba_ are the most noted, but -as the lake itself, and all the surrounding country are as unknown as -the internal parts of Africa, it will be useless to repeat names that -are gathered from maps, often imaginary, and generally erroneous. - -The capital of Guiana is _Santo Tome_, or _Angostura_, (the strait, -so called, because situated in a narrow part of the Orinoco;) it was -originally built in 1586, nearer the sea, at the distance of fifty -leagues from the mouth of the river, but having suffered successively -from the invasions of the English, French and Dutch, it was removed, in -1764, to its present scite, ninety leagues from the Atlantic, on the -right bank of the river, at the foot of a small mountain. Opposite the -city is a village and fortress on the left bank of the Orinoco. - -This place was built for the defence of the passage of the Strait, and -is called Port Rafael. Between this port and the city is the island -Del Medio, a low rocky islet, covered during the floods. The channel -lies between this shoal and the town, the river being 200 feet broad -at low water. Santo Tome is the seat of government, the bishop and -governor of Guiana residing in it, but its buildings are said to be -mean, and its appearance unworthy of a better title than that of a -large village. - -The other towns of Guiana are also no better than villages, and it has -many forts near the Portuguese boundaries. - - -_ISLAND OF MARGARITA._ - -This island, which is about thirty leagues in circumference, forms a -government separate from that of Cumana, on whose shores it lies, and -dependant on the captain-general of Caraccas. It lies in north latitude -10 deg. 56', and in 64 and 65 degrees west longitude. - -It was first discovered by Columbus in 1498. The pearls found on the -coasts of this and the neighbouring isle of Cubagua, soon rendered it -famous, and the fishery was carried on at the expence of vast numbers -of Indians who lost their lives in the undertaking. - -The possession of Margarita is an object of some consequence to the -Spaniards, as it is separated from the continent by a straight only -eight leagues wide, and to windward of all the best ports of Caraccas. -It forms the channel through which all vessels coming from Europe, or -windward, to Cumana, Barcelona and La Guayra, must pass, though it is -not navigable in its whole breadth, the rocky island Coche between it -and the continent, leaving only a narrow pass of two leagues, but which -is seldom dangerous, owing to the general calmness that reigns in this -part of the Caribbean sea. - -In this island there are only three ports, _Pampatar_ on the -east-south-east; _Pueblo de la Mar_, a league to leeward of the -preceding, and _Pueblo del Norte_ on the north side. - -The population of Margarita has been estimated at 14,000 persons, -consisting of 5500 whites, 2000 Guayqueria Indians, and 6500 Castes. -The pearl fishery formerly constituted their principal occupation, and -is still attended to by the Indians, who also take numbers of turtles -and fish, the latter of which they salt and export. They fabricate -cotton stockings, and hammocks of a very superior quality. Fowls, -turkeys, and all kinds of poultry are exported to the continent by the -lower classes, and the island is celebrated for its beautiful parrots -and other curious birds, which are so much esteemed that scarcely any -trading vessel leaves the place without carrying away some of them. -Along the coast of Margarita the land is in general rocky and very -steep, but the interior is fertile, producing maize and fruits, and -covered with groves; its climate, though very hot, is wholesome, the -greatest inconvenience experienced by the inhabitants being a want of -good fresh water. - -The capital of this government is the city of _Asuncion_, situated in -the centre of the island, and which, excepting its being the chief -place, is otherwise unimportant. - -This island has lately been the scene of some sanguinary actions -between the insurgents and the Spanish troops under General Morillo; -the latter having been defeated in a severe battle, was obliged to -retire to the adjacent continent. The chief scene of these operations -was near the port of Pampatar. - - - - -_VICEROYALTY OF PERU._ - - -The viceroyalty of Peru is far from being the largest, or the richest -of the Spanish American governments, as since the dismemberment of -several of its most important provinces it has become of very little -comparative importance; to its name is however attached the most -interesting recollections, and as the empire of its Incas was formerly -the most renowned, the history of its conquest the most extraordinary, -and its ancient splendour the greatest, we have judged it proper to -place the general outline of the most important historical relations -regarding ancient and modern South America, with the particular -description of those of Peru. - - -BOUNDARIES AND EXTENT. - -Peru is bounded on the north by the southern provinces of Quito, -Maynas, Jaen de Bracamaros, and Guayaquil; on the west by the Pacific -Ocean; on the east, by the Portuguese possessions, and the provinces -of Buenos Ayres; and on the south, by the government of Chili and the -viceroyalty of La Plata. It was formerly the most extensive kingdom -of South America, but in the year 1718 the provinces of Quito in the -north, as far as the river Tumbez, were annexed to the government of -New Granada, and in 1778, Potosi, and several other of its richest -districts on the east were annexed to the viceroyalty of Buenos Ayres; -its present extent is therefore from the Rio Tumbez, in 3 deg. 30' -south latitude, to the chain of Vilcanota, in 15 deg. south latitude, -or 690 geographical miles, while along its coast this length maybe -prolonged to 375 more; its medial breadth, not including the Pampas -del Sacramento, is nearly eighty, so that its area may be estimated at -33,630 square leagues, or according to Humboldt, only at 30,000. - -Its eastern settlements bound on Colonna, or the land of the Missions, -the Pampas del Sacramento, and the savage nations of the Pajonal, a -vast steppe covered with long grass. - - -POLITICAL AND TERRITORIAL DIVISIONS AND GOVERNMENT. - -Peru is divided into seven intendancies, viz. Truxillo, Tarma, -Huancavelica, Lima, Guamanga, Arequipa and Cuzco, each of which is -governed by an intendant, nominated by the viceroy, a nobleman of the -highest rank, who is sent from Spain, and whose appointment is one of -the first consequence in Spanish America. - -The population of Peru may be estimated at 1,300,000, of which 130,000 -are whites, 240,000, mestizoes, and the remainder Indians and negroes, -the latter of whom are in very small numbers. - -The missionary lands to the east have not been included in this -statement; of them we shall have occasion to speak hereafter. - -In Peru the revenue is derived from the duties on imports, exports, -gold, silver, tobacco, liquors, the capitation tax on the Indians, -taxes on the clergy, &c. It is said to amount to 1,083,000_l._ -annually, and it remits, in prosperous times, to Spain for the royal -coffers, 216,600_l._, to Panama, 70,000_l._, to Valdivia in Chili, -3750_l._, and to the island of Chiloe a similar sum to defray the -expences of their several administrations. The net revenue of the -colony, after defraying these sitaudos, or remittances, does not -amount to more than is sufficient to settle the expenses of its own -internal government. - -The salary of the viceroy is 12,600_l._ a small sum, but which is -assisted by the monopoly of certain manufactures, by grants, and by the -colonial situations and titles he can confer. - -Peru is the seat of two royal audiences, that of Lima and that of -Cuzco. The audience of Lima was established in 1543, and is composed -of a regent, eight oidores or judges, four alcaldes, and two fiscals, -the viceroy being president. It is divided into three chambers, and -is the superior court of appeal for the whole government. The royal -treasury is the next great office of state, composed of the viceroy, -the regent of the council, the dean of the tribunal of accounts, and -other officers, and the revenue appeals are determined by the tribunal -of accounts. - -_Commerce._--The commerce of Peru is important, and on account of the -number of fine ports along its coast, it may be styled the maritime -province of the South American states. - -The trade flows through three channels; by the straits of Magellan from -Europe, through the North Pacific from India and Mexico, or Guatimala; -and through the interior with the southern provinces of Chili and -Buenos Ayres. Since the trade was unshackled in 1778, its exports and -imports have doubled, and the principal branch of its commerce is that -carried on round Cape Horn. - -The exports of Peru are chiefly gold, silver, brandies, sugar, pimento, -cinchona, salt, vicuna wool, coarse woollens, and other trifling -manufactures. - -Its imports are European goods, linens, cottons, woollens, silks, iron, -hardware, superfine cloths, mercury, wax, paper, glass, medicines, -wines, liqueurs, books and furniture: from Buenos Ayres it receives -Paraguay tea, live stock and provisions, and from the other internal -provinces, coca leaf, indigo, tallow, cacao, timber, cordage, pitch and -copper. - -Chili also supplies Lima with grain and fruits in immense quantities, -and salted meat, soap, wine, copper, saffron, &c. - -The ports of Peru which are most frequented, are those named Arica, -Ilo, Iquique, and Quilca, in the intendancy of Arequipa, and Pisco, -on the south of Lima; Chancay and Guacho in Lima; and Guanchaco, -Pacasmayo, and Payta, in Truxillo, on the north. - -With the southern ports, the trade is in wine, brandy, iron, dried -fruits, copper, tin, lead, &c.; with the northern, in wool, cotton, -leather, chocolate, rice and salted fish. - -To the Rio de la Plata, the exports are maize, sugar, brandy, pimento, -indigo and woollens; these exports are said to amount to 2,000,000 -dollars annually, and the imports from that government, to 860,000, -consisting in mules, sheep, hams, tallow, wool, coca leaf, Paraguay tea -and tin; and 20,000 mules arrive annually from Tucuman, for the service -of the Peruvian mines. A great trade is also carried on with Guayaquil -and Guatimala, but with Panama it is almost nothing. - -From the Philippine islands, muslins, tea, and other East Indian goods, -are imported, amounting to 270,230 dollars annually, in return for -about 2,790,000, exported to Asia, in silver and gold. - -The produce of the mines of Peru, including those of Chili, is about -1,730,000_l._ annually, whilst the value of European goods imported, -is nearly 2,492,000_l._ in the same period; and the value of the -agricultural produce exported, of Peru and Chili, is 866,000_l._ - -In this country the population is much scattered, and composed of -castes who have the greatest distrust of each other, the Indians being -the most numerous, and leading a life of indolence and apathy; the -natural resources of this fine region are unheeded; and its commerce, -far from being restricted by the government, suffers only from the -inactivity of its inhabitants. - -_Mines._--The mines, which in general are very rich, are very ill -worked, and often abandoned from trivial causes; and the quicksilver -necessary to obtain the metal from the ore, is procured in insufficient -quantities, no exertions being made to clear the mines of that valuable -substance, which exists in the greatest profusion in the country. - -The mines which produce the greatest quantity of valuable metals, are -those of _Lauricocha_, the province of Tarma, commonly called the mines -of _Pasco_ in the _Cerro de Bombon_, or high-table-land, in which is -the small lake De los Reyes, to the south of the Cerro de Yauricocha; -those of _Gualgayoc_, or _Chota_, in Truxillo, and the mines of -_Huantajaya_. - -The mines of _Pasco_ were discovered by Huari Capac, an Indian, in -1630; they alone furnish two millions of piastres annually, and are at -an elevation of more than 13,000 feet above the level of the sea; the -metalliferous bed appears near the surface, the shafts being not more -than from 90 to 400 feet in depth; water then makes its appearance, and -causes great expence in clearing it. The bed is 15,747 feet long, and -7217 feet in breadth, and would produce, if worked by steam, as much -as Guanaxuato in Mexico; its average annual produce is however 131,260 -_lbs._ troy. - -_Gualgayoc_ and _Micuipampa_, commonly called Chota, were discovered -in 1771, by Don Rodriguez de Ocano a European; but in the time of the -Incas, the Peruvians worked some silver vein, near the present town of -Micuipampa. - -Immense wealth has been discovered at _Fuentestiana_, at _Comolache_ -and _Pampa de Navar_; at the last of which, wherever the turf is moved, -for more than half a square league, sulphuretted and native silver, in -filaments, are found adhering to the roots of the grasses, and it is -also occasionally discovered in large masses. - -All the mines in the partido of _Chota_, comprehended under the name of -_Gualgayoc_, have furnished the provincial treasury of Truxillo, with -44,095_lbs._ troy of silver annually; these minerals are richer than -those of Potosi, and are discovered mostly at the height of 13,385 feet. - -The mines of _Huantajaya_ are surrounded with beds of rock salt, -and are celebrated for the quantity of native masses of silver they -produce. They are situated in the partido of Arica, near the small -port of Yquique, in a desart destitute of water, and furnish an -annual supply of from 42 to 52,000_lbs._ troy. Two masses, which were -discovered here lately, weighed, one, two, and the other eight quintals. - -Gold was formerly procured by the Incas in the plains of _Curimayo_, -north-east of the city of Caxamarca, at more than 11,154 feet above -the sea. It has also been extracted from the right bank of the Rio -de Micuipampa, between _Cerro de San Jose_, and the plain called -_Choropampa_, or the Plain of Shells; so named, on account of a vast -quantity of petrified sea shells, found there, at the absolute height -of more than 13,123 feet. - -At present, the Peruvian gold comes partly from _Pataz_ and _Huilies_, -in Tarma, and is extracted from veins of quartz, traversing primitive -rock, and partly from washings established on the banks of the _Maranon -Alto_, in Chachapoyas. - -Cobalt, antimony, coal and salt, exist in this country; but as they -are, with the exception of the latter, chiefly found in the mountain -regions, the high price of carriage prevents their useful qualities -from being brought into general use. - -The coinage of gold and silver in the royal mint of Lima, between 1791 -and 1801, amounted to 5,466,000_l._ or 1,113,000_l._ _per annum_; of -which 3450 marcs were gold, and 570,000 silver. - -The number of gold mines and washings worked in Peru is about 70, -and the number of silver mines 680, which includes all the different -works on the same spot. Of quicksilver, four mines exist, with four of -copper, and twelve of lead. - -Emeralds and other precious stones are found in this country, with -obsidian, and the stone of the Incas, a marcasite capable of the -highest polish. - -_Climate_, _Features_, &c.--The climate of Peru is singularly various. -The mountains which extend on the west side of America, cause a -division of this country into three distinct parts, the maritime -valleys, the barren summits, and the plains or uplands between the -ridges. The chain of the Andes, arresting the clouds, which dissolve on -the mountain districts into rain and vapours, accompanied with storms -of thunder and lightning, whilst between 5 deg. and 15 deg. south -latitude, on the coast, rain is unknown, and the dry winds from the -Antarctic constantly pervade this region, from the desert of Atacama to -the gulf of Guayaquil, a distance of 400 leagues. In this tract, the -houses are covered only with mats, sprinkled with ashes, to absorb the -night dews, and the soil, being moistened only by these dews, is rather -sandy and barren. - -On the uplands vegetation nourishes, and to the height of 10,000 feet, -the Sierra or High Peru, enjoys a climate composed of a mixture of -perpetual spring and autumn. Beyond 14,000 feet, the Sierra is covered -with eternal snows, and consequently an everlasting winter reigns in -its neighbourhood. - -The cultivation of these different tracts is little attended to; along -the coast, desarts of thirty or forty leagues in extent are frequent; -and the immense forests which cover the maritime plains, prove that the -inhabitants are not numerous; these forests contain acacias, mangle -trees, arborescent brooms and ferns, aloes, and other succulent plants, -cedars, cotton or ceiba trees of gigantic growth, many kinds of ebony, -and other useful woods, ten or twelve species of palms, and the maria, -an enormous tree used in ship building. These forests are thickest at -the distance of seven or eight leagues from the coast, and the trees -then become covered with parasitical plants, which reach to their very -top, mixing their beautiful and lively flowers with the dark green -foliage, so peculiar to the tropics. - -In the forests and in the plains of the coast, are found the cabbage -palm, the cocoa nut, the cacao nut, the cotton shrub, the pine apple, -canna, amomum, turmeric, plantain, sugar cane, &c., on the sides of the -Andes, and in its great plains, are the precious cinchona, coffee tree, -the cardana alliodora, a large tree, whose leaves and wood emit an -odour resembling garlic. Twenty-four species of pepper, five or six of -capsicum, and several of potato, tobacco and jalap exist in Peru, and -the green and hot houses of Europe owe most of their beautiful flowers -and plants to this country. - -The llama, the guanuco, the vicuna, and the alpaca, or the different -species of American camel, find their native climate in the cold -districts of Peru; the jaguar, the cougar or puma, and several other -wild animals, inhabit the thick forests; while the elk, the ant-bear, -deer, monkeys, the great black bear of the Andes, and armadillos, &c., -are very numerous. The woods abound in beautiful birds, the rivers in -fish and alligators, and numerous tribes of reptiles infest the warm -districts of the coast, in which venomous insects are also common. - -The mountains of Peru do not yield in height to those of Quito, -the great chain of the Andes dividing itself into several parallel -branches, forming as in Quito, long and narrow valleys, near its -summits; it is very precipitous towards the east, and seems to form -a natural barrier between the kingdoms of La Plata and Peru. It here -gives birth to the Maranon, the Guallaga, the Tunguragua, and a variety -of smaller rivers, which either lose themselves in these or in the -Pacific Ocean. - - -HISTORY, DISCOVERY, &C. - -The history of Peru in the remote ages is not so clearly ascertained as -that of Mexico; traditions were not handed down to posterity as in that -country by symbolical paintings, but were remembered only by means of -the quippus, a knotted string of different colours, or by the priests -who were brought up from their youth in temples, where the history of -the nation was one of the objects of the care of their elders in their -instruction. - -Although it is doubtful which nation had advanced to the greatest state -of civilization, it is certain that the Mexicans had the most correct -chronological notions; and accordingly, the aeras of their early history -are the most to be depended on. From what country the ancient Peruvians -migrated is not known; they were however of a character widely -different from the Mexicans, and have been conjectured by some authors -to have come from the south-east. - -They remained for a length of time without any decided form of -government, until they were subdued by a tribe who were said to have -come from an island in a great lake to the south of Peru. These people -were warlike and totally different in their manners from the Peruvians, -who were merely tribes of wandering inoffensive savages. According to -some authors MANCO CAPAC, and MAMA OELLO his wife were the conquerors -of Peru, appearing on the banks of lake Chucuito, clothed in flowing -garments, and whiter than the natives whom they came amongst; they -gave themselves out as children of the sun, sent by that divinity to -reclaim and instruct mankind. Awed by the presence of these people, -the rude savages followed them till they settled at Cuzco, where they -founded a town, afterwards the capital of Peru. Persuading the tribes -who wandered over the country to collect around them, Manco Capac, -instructed the men in agricultural and other useful arts, while Mama -Oello taught the females to weave and spin. After securing the objects -of primary importance, those of providing food, raiment and habitations -for his followers, Manco Capac turned his attention towards framing -laws for their government, in order to perpetuate the good work he had -begun. He constituted himself their sovereign and high priest, enacted -a law that no one but his descendants were to fill this post, that they -were to be held sacred, and looked upon as inferior only to the planet -from whom they sprung. - -At first his territories embraced only a few leagues in extent round -the capital, but these were rapidly enlarged from the mild and -beneficent effects of his patriarchal government. - -He was now styled by his subjects Capac, or rich in virtue; he founded -the temple of the sun at Cuzco, which was to be served only by virgins -of royal descent. This monarch lived among his people for a number -of years and then suddenly disappeared. His successors increased the -boundaries of their territories by the force of their arms, and by the -greater force of persuasion, backed by the mildest exercise of their -royal functions. - -These monarchs were styled Incas, and were distinguished by a peculiar -dress and ornaments, which none of their subjects dared to assume; -they were adored by the Peruvians, who looked upon them as the sons -and vicegerents of the divinity they worshipped. This unbounded power -of the Incas was unaccompanied by any ill effects, as their attention -was uniformly exerted for the good of their subjects, in extending the -benefits of civilization, and knowledge of the arts introduced by their -founder. - -It seems highly probable that such a person as Manco Capac existed, and -that he introduced the measures we have related, but it is also most -probable that he was accompanied by followers who carried his dictates -into effect among the rude Peruvians, and therefore the supposition -that these people were conquered by a superior and warlike tribe from -the south, is by no means improbable, as at the present day, there -exist several tribes in the southern forests, who are more civilized -than the modern Peruvians, and who have successfully resisted the -invasion of the Spaniards. The successor of Manco Capac, who died in -the latter end of the twelfth or beginning of the thirteenth century, -was his son _Sinchi Roca_, or the brave, who extended his dominions -sixty miles south of Cuzco. The third Inca was _Lloque Yupanqui_, who -further extended the territories of Cuzco and reduced several tribes; -the fourth was _Maita Capac_, who also added to the empire, and erected -several splendid edifices; the fifth, _Capac Yupanqui_, was another -conqueror; the sixth, _Inca Roca_, subdued many small districts; the -seventh was named _Yahuar Huacac_; the eighth, _Inca Ripac_, and who -had an army of 30,000 men; he conquered many provinces, and obliged -the chief of Tucuman to pay him homage; the ninth was _Inca Urca_, -who was deposed after he had reigned eleven days; he was succeeded -by _Pachacutec_, who subdued Jauja, Tarma, and other provinces; the -eleventh was _Yupanqui_, who carried his conquests to the river Maule, -in Chili, and over the Mojos far to the east of the Andes; the -twelfth, _Tupac Yupanqui_, conquered several districts in Quito; and -the thirteenth, _Huayna Capac_, subdued the kingdom of Lican or Quito, -and established himself in the capital. His history has been related -in the historical description of that province. On his death-bed he -divided Quito and Peru between his sons; but _Inti Cusi Hualpa_, or -_Huascar_, was declared Inca; he fought a bloody battle with his -brother _Atahualpa_, and was taken prisoner, on which _Atahualpa_ or -_Atabalipa_, invested himself with the regal fillet, and was proclaimed -fifteenth Inca of the Peruvians. On his being killed by Pizarro, _Manco -Capac_ was crowned by permission of that general, but revolted from -the allegiance he had vowed to Spain, and retiring to the mountains, -is supposed to have died about 1553. The seventeenth and last of the -Incas, was _Sayri Tupac_, who resigned his sovereignty to Philip the -Eleventh of Spain, and died a christian, leaving only one daughter, -who married Onez de Loyola, a Spanish knight, from whom descend the -Marquesses of _Oropesa_ and _Alcanises._ Manco Capac, the Second, left -several children, one of whom, _Tupac Amaru_, was the oldest, and -was beheaded by the Spaniards, on pretence of his having assumed the -imperial fillet. - -The discovery of Peru by the Europeans takes its date from the latter -end of the reign of Huana Capac in 1524, when three inhabitants of the -city of Panama entered into an association for the purpose of exploring -the continent south of the isthmus of Darien. Don Francisco Pizarro of -Truxillo, Don Diego Almagro of Malagon, and a priest named Hernando -de Luque, were at that time among the richest people of Panama, and -proposed to themselves the employment of their fortunes in one common -stock, to discover and conquer new countries on the south, after the -model of Cortez in Mexico, with whom Pizarro had served, and to whom -he was related. Having obtained permission from Pedro Arias de Avila, -the governor of Terra Firma, _Pizarro_ fitted out a vessel, in which he -embarked in the port of Panama with 114 men. - -About fifty leagues from the harbour, he discovered a small barren -district, named _Peru_, and from this now unknown spot, the celebrated -country we are describing received its name. Beyond Peru, he explored -another district, which he called _El Pueblo Quemado_. The Indians -of that country were so resolute, that Pizarro was obliged to return -to the coast of Panama. In the mean time Almagro fitted out another -vessel and sailed in search of Pizarro, as far as the Rio San Juan, a -hundred leagues south of Panama, but not meeting with him, he returned -and landed on the coast of Pueblo Quemado, where finding certain -indications that he had been there, Almagro landed his men, who were -immediately attacked by the natives, and forced to retire to their ship -and put to sea; in this action Almagro lost an eye. Following the shore -to the north, he found Pizarro at Chinchama, near the Isla del Rey, in -the gulf of Panama; they had now by their junction an armed force of -200 men, and again resumed their expedition, and sailed to the south, -with their two vessels attended by three large canoes. They suffered -very much in their attempts to land on the coast from the barren nature -of the country, and from contrary winds and currents, as well as from -the native tribes. - -Having lost several men from famine and the constant attacks of the -Indians, Almagro was dispatched to Panama for recruits and provisions. -He soon rejoined Pizarro with twenty-four men and good supplies; they -therefore advanced to the coast of Tacames, beyond the river San Juan, -which had hitherto been the extent of their voyages; here they found -a better peopled country and plenty of provision; and the natives, -who were still hostile, were observed to wear ornaments of gold. -Almagro was therefore detached a second time to Panama to procure -more men, and Pizarro remained at the _Isla Gallo_, near the shore of -Barbacoas, to await his return; in which island his men suffered great -hardships from the want of food. On the arrival of Almagro at Panama, -he found the governor, Pedro de los Rios, adverse to the plan, and -he was not allowed to raise any recruits, while an order was sent to -Gallo, for those to return who wished not to engage in such a dangerous -enterprise. In consequence of this measure, the party of Pizarro was -reduced to twelve men, who were the whole that chose to abide the issue -of the voyage. They retired with their leader to a small uninhabited -isle, named _Gorgona_, at a greater distance from the coast, and -seventy miles nearer Panama. This isle abounding with rivulets, the -little band lived more comfortably than they had done at Gallo, and -waited with great anxiety for a supply of provisions from Panama, which -at last arrived in a small vessel. - -With this assistance, Pizarro and his faithful twelve, embarked on -board the vessel, and putting themselves under the guidance of the -pilot, Bartolomeo Bruye of Moguer, they reached with great labour, -(from the adverse currents,) the coast of a district named _Mostripe_, -on which they landed and advanced a short way up the river Amatape, -which flows into the gulf of Payta, where they procured some Peruvian -camels or sheep, and took some of the natives to answer as interpreters -in their future progress. - -Leaving this place, Pizarro sailed for the port of _Tumbez_ on the -south side of the bay of Guayaquil, where he had learnt that a rich -monarch who existed in the interior had a fine palace. At Tumbez, three -of his followers left him, and were afterwards slain by the Indians. -Procuring the information he wanted, Pizarro returned to Panama, -having spent three years in these discoveries, and from being the -richest was now reduced to be the poorest of the colonists of Tierra -Firma. In concert with Almagro, in the latter end of 1527, Pizarro -raised some money, and was sent to Spain to beseech the king to forward -the further discovery of the country, and to name a governor, which -office he solicited for himself. His demands were complied with, and -he returned to Panama, accompanied by his brothers Ferdinand, Juan and -Gonzalo. - -Besides these, he brought with him Francisco Martin de Alcantara, his -uncle, and as many men as he could procure; he was assisted in raising -these men, by a supply of money from Cortez. - -On his arrival in Panama, in 1530, a violent dispute broke out between -Almagro and himself, the former complaining that he had unjustly -procured the title of governor of Peru. Pizarro was obliged to soothe -him, by assuring him that he would renounce all pretensions to that -office, if Almagro could procure the consent of the Spanish monarch. -Almagro being appeased by this concession, exerted himself at first, -to the utmost, in forwarding the expedition, but owing to the jealousy -he still entertained of the Pizarros, he at last endeavoured to thwart -their efforts, and Pizarro sailed without him, with three small -vessels, carrying 180 soldiers, thirty-six of whom were horsemen in -February 1531; contrary winds obliged the general, after a voyage of -thirteen days, to land 100 leagues more to the north than he intended, -and the place of disembarkation was named the _Bay of St. Mateo_, from -whence the troops had to undergo a long and painful march, crossing -rivers and other obstacles; they at last reached _Coaque_, a place in -Tacames on the sea-side, where they procured fresh provision. After -subduing the natives of this town, Pizarro sent one of the ships which -had sailed along the coast, to Panama, and the other to Nicaragua, with -about 24,000 or 25,000 ducats worth of gold, which he had seized. This -was destined for Almagro and others, in order to procure a farther -reinforcement, with which he was gradually supplied, the first who -joined him being Benalcazar, from Nicaragua. He then continued his -march along the coast, and met with scarcely any resistance, until -he attacked the _Isle of Puna_, in the bay of Guayaquil. Six months -expired before he could reduce this island to subjection, and from -hence he went to Tumbez, where, on account of the disease which raged -among his men, he remained three months longer. - -From Tumbez, he advanced in May 1532, to the river _Piura_, and close -to its mouth founded the first Spanish colony in Peru, to which he gave -the name of _San Miguel_, having subdued all the curacas or chiefs in -the vicinity. While engaged in founding this city, the general received -a message from Huascar, the reigning Inca, informing him of the revolt -of Atahualpa, and requesting his assistance in establishing the empire -in the hands of its lawful sovereign. Placing a garrison in San Miguel, -Pizarro determined to penetrate into the interior, under the guidance -of the Inca's messengers; his disposable force consisting at this time, -of sixty-two horsemen and 102 foot soldiers, twenty of whom were armed -with cross-bows, and three only carrying matchlocks, with two small -field-pieces. The Peruvian ambassador directed his march towards the -province of _Caxamarca_, in which Atahualpa then was. On his route he -received messengers from the usurper with costly presents, requesting -also his assistance. - -Pizarro informed these people, that his views were entirely pacific, -and that he meant merely to assist in reconciling the difference -between the brothers. On his arrival, after a distressing march at -Caxamarca, he was shown a house, in which himself and troops were to -repose. This building, which was very extensive, was formed into -a square, in which stood a temple and a palace, and the whole was -surrounded with a strong rampart. - -Atahualpa, immediately after the Spaniards had taken possession of -their quarters, paid their general a visit, accompanied with an immense -train of courtiers and warriors. - -Father Vicente Valverde, the chaplain to the army, and bishop of Peru, -advanced to meet the usurping Inca, holding in one hand his breviary, -and a crucifix in the other, and commenced a long harangue, in which -he set forth the necessity of his immediately embracing the Christian -religion, related its forms, and told him that the king of Spain, had -received a grant from the pope of all the regions in the New World, -ending with desiring him to be baptized, to acknowledge the supremacy -of the pope, and the authority of the king of Castile, promising in -their names, that the general would favour his claims to the empire of -Peru, if he submitted, but denouncing war and vengeance if he refused. - -The reply of Atahualpa, to such parts of this speech as he could -be made to comprehend, was temperate; he said, "he was lord of the -territories he had succeeded to by the laws of his country, that he -could not conceive how a foreign priest could pretend to dispose of his -dominions; he declared he had no intention to renounce the religion -of his fathers, and he wished to know where the Spaniards had learnt -all the wonderful things which Valverde had been relating;" the bishop -answered, "in the book he held," on which Atahualpa requested it from -him, and turning over a few leaves, and placing it to his ear, threw it -on the ground, saying, "it is silent, it tells me nothing." Valverde -turning to the Spanish troops, immediately exclaimed, "To arms! to -arms! Christians! the Word of God is insulted, avenge this profanation -on these impious dogs." Pizarro being of opinion that the numbers of -the Peruvians would overpower him if he waited their attack, gave the -signal of assault, advancing at the head of his band to the charge, he -pushed directly for the litter in which Atahualpa was borne, the people -who carried it were repeatedly slain, and as repeatedly replaced by -others, anxious for the honour of rescuing their sovereign. Pizarro -at last cut his way through the crowd to the unfortunate prince, and -seizing him by the long hair of his head, he dragged him from his seat. -In doing this, several soldiers cutting down the people who supported -the golden litter, and a sword glancing off, wounded Pizarro in the -hand, but regardless of the pain, he held fast his rich prize in spite -of the multitude of Peruvians who surrounded him. - -As soon as the monarch was secured beyond redemption, universal panic -seized his army, and they fled in every direction, night alone putting -a period to their pursuit, by the cavalry; 4000 Indians fell in this -memorable battle, which decided the fate of a mighty empire; not a -single Spaniard was killed, and the plunder of the Indian camp was -immense. This action took place on the 10th of November 1532. - -The captive Inca finding he had no chance of escape, offered a ransom, -which was to be so great a quantity of gold, that it would fill the -apartment in which he was confined, as high as he could reach. This -chamber was twenty-two feet in length, and sixteen in breadth, and a -line was drawn around the walls, to indicate the height to which the -treasure was to rise; and Pizarro, acceding to this proposal, the Inca -immediately dispatched emissaries to Cuzco, to procure the ransom; with -these messengers two Spanish officers were sent, to see that the gold -in the treasury of Cuzco was sufficient to answer the demand, as some -doubts had been shown by the Europeans on that subject. On their route, -they met the captive Inca Huascar, escorted by a party of Atahualpa's -troops; conferring with Huascar, they discovered that he possessed -treasures to a much greater amount; but as they were concealed, he -alone knew where they were; he informed the officers, that if Pizarro -would reinstate him in his dignity, he would give three times as much -gold as his brother, and promised to swear allegiance to the Spanish -king. - -Soto and Barco, the two officers, told him it was out of their power to -return to Caxamarca, as they were ordered to go to Cuzco, but that they -would faithfully relate all that had passed to the general, when they -had executed their mission; this they did, but in the interval, the -whole conference had been detailed to Atahualpa, who foreseeing, that -if Pizarro once got possession of the enormous treasures of Huascar, -he should become of no importance, ordered his emissaries to kill his -unfortunate brother; and as his will was a law, the order was speedily -carried into execution. - -Whilst these events were passing, Almagro arrived from Panama, -with a large reinforcement, to the great joy of the Spaniards; the -treasure from Cuzco also arrived, and consisted of golden utensils and -ornaments, used in the temples of the Sun; these, excepting a few which -were reserved as curiosities, were melted down; a fifth was set aside -for the king; 100,000 dollars were distributed to the followers of -Almagro; and the remainder, amounting to 1,528,500 dollars, an enormous -sum in those times, was divided among Pizarro and his troops, each -horseman receiving 8000 dollars, and each foot-soldier 4000. - -After this ransom was paid, instead of releasing his prisoner, Pizarro, -who was alarmed on one hand by the exaction of an equal share of the -ransom by the troops under Almagro, and on the other by the accounts -of large armies forming in the interior determined to kill Atahualpa, -which fate that monarch hastened, by professing his contempt of -the general, on account of his want of learning. The Inca seeing -and admiring the method which the Europeans had of communicating -their ideas by writing, was for a long time unable to conceal his -astonishment and doubts, whether it was not managed by evil spirits; -accordingly he directed a soldier to write the name of God on his thumb -nail, and showed it to every Spaniard he saw, in order to observe -whether they all gave a similar account of its meaning. - -At length he showed it to Pizarro, who blushing, acknowledged that he -was ignorant of the art of writing, which was an acquirement that most -of his nation possessed. From that time the Inca, who now clearly saw -the whole mystery, looked upon the general, as a person of low birth, -less instructed than the meanest of his soldiers, and not having the -address to conceal his sentiments, forfeited any good opinion which -Pizarro might have had for him. A mock trial was instituted, and the -Inca formally arraigned, before the self-constituted tribunal, which -consisted of Pizarro, Almagro, and two assistants; he was charged -by Philipillo, an Indian, who had been to Spain with Pizarro, with -attempting to seize the empire of Peru from his natural sovereign; with -putting him to death; with idolatry; permission and encouragement of -human sacrifices; with having many wives; with waste and embezzlement -of the royal treasure, and with inciting his subjects to take up arms -against the Spaniards. - -Witnesses were examined, to whom Philipillo served as an interpreter, -and gave their evidence as he pleased. On these charges the Inca was -condemned to suffer death, by being burnt alive. Valverde signed the -warrant, and attended the monarch to the stake, which was immediately -prepared. Actuated by the fear of a cruel death, and tormented by -the infamous bishop, Atahualpa consented to be baptized, in hopes of -obtaining a release from so dreadful a punishment. Valverde crossed -and confessed his royal victim, baptized him, and then led him to be -strangled! - -On the death of Atahualpa, his son was invested with the royal insignia -by Pizarro, who hoped to retain the Indians in subjection, by the -command he held over their sovereign. - -Quizquiz, a Peruvian general, had made head in a province named Xauxa, -so that it was necessary for Pizarro to march against him; this was -accordingly done; and Hernando de Soto, moving forward with a strong -advanced guard, Quizquiz retreated, being unable to withstand Soto; but -that leader followed him, and obliged the Peruvians to retreat on Quito. - -So great was the fame of Pizarro's conquests at this time, that -numerous bodies of troop joined him from Tierra Firma, Guatimala, &c., -and he was now enabled to take the field with 500 men, besides leaving -sufficient garrisons in the conquered towns. He accordingly hastened -his march on Cuzco, the capital, in the route to which he met _Paulu -Inca_, a brother of Atahualpa, who had been solemnly invested with the -regal fillet by the Peruvians. He told the Spanish general that he had -a large army at Cuzco, who were ready to submit to his orders. On the -arrival of the Spaniards they were however attacked very vigorously by -the Peruvians, and a battle ensued which lasted till night. - -The next day the general entered the metropolis without opposition, -where he found an immense booty; his thoughts were now turned on -colonizing the country, and placing such a force in Cuzco as should -insure a permanent settlement there; this he effected with much -difficulty, as many of his followers were determined to return to -Spain in order to enjoy in their native country the fruits of their -hard-earned wealth. - -San Miguel the first town built by the Spaniards being poorly -garrisoned, Pizarro now sent Benalcazar with ten horsemen to reinforce -the place. This officer receiving complaints from the neighbouring -Indians of the exactions and vindictive proceedings of the Peruvians -at Quito, took with him a number of soldiers who had then arrived -from Panama and Nicaragua to subdue that country; his success was -complete. Quito and Cuzco the two capitals being now reduced Fernando -Pizarro was dispatched by his brother to Spain, to lay an account of -the proceedings of the Spanish Army before the king, carrying with him -an immensely valuable present in gold and silver. He was favourably -received, Pizarro was confirmed in his government and a further -addition of seventy leagues to the south made to his territories; on -Almagro was conferred the government of the countries 200 leagues -south of the limits prescribed to Pizarro, who was created Marquess of -Atavillos. - -While the negotiations were going on, Alvarado the governor of -Guatimala had landed on the Peruvian coast with a large force, and gone -into the interior with the intention of dispossessing Almagro of his -command, and Pizarro of the possession of Cuzco, but marching against -the army of the former who was employed in reducing the provinces -between Quito and Peru, his men refused to fight their brethren, and -the leaders after much parleying became reconciled; Alvarado promising -to deliver over his troops to the two generals for a stipulated sum, -which was honourably paid him by Pizarro. These troubles being at an -end, Pizarro founded the city of Lima, on the 18th of January, 1533, -and transferred the colonists he had placed in Xauxa thither. - -While he was thus employed Almagro having heard of the king's grant, -determined to take possession of Cuzco, which he considered within his -limit; in this attempt he was defeated by the municipal body of that -place, and Pizarro arriving in good time, put a stop to his further -proceedings. It was then agreed that Almagro should have 500 men, and -proceed southward, conquering such countries as he deemed expedient, in -which he was to be assisted by every means in Pizarro's power; this was -the commencement of the conquest of Chili. - -After the departure of Almagro on this scheme, Pizarro resumed his task -of giving a regular form to his government, by making the necessary -distributions of land to the colonists who were continually arriving, -by instituting courts of justice, and by founding towns, &c. Manco -Capac the reigning Inca revolted at this period, and entered, with -Philipillo and others, into a conspiracy to exterminate the armies of -Pizarro and Almagro; he obtained possession of Cuzco, which was not -taken from him until after eight days hard fighting, and with the loss -of Juan Pizarro, who was killed by a stone. - -The brothers of Pizarro, who was at Lima, had much difficulty to -maintain possession of the capital; all communication between them and -the governor being cut off, and the place was vigorously besieged by -Manco Capac and his brothers Paullu and Villaoma, for eight months, -during which time the Spaniards lost many men. Almagro hearing of these -disasters, thought this a convenient time to assert his old pretensions -to the government of Cuzco, and accordingly marched from the frontiers -of Chili to that place in 1537. He was met by the Inca, who under -pretence of making overtures to him, drew him into a snare, from which -he narrowly escaped, with the loss of several of his men. - -The brothers of Pizarro finding they had now a new enemy to withstand, -prepared Cuzco to undergo a formidable siege; but having lost six -hundred men during the attacks of the Peruvians, they were surprised by -the troops of Almagro who forced them to submit, and declared himself -governor of the place, imprisoning Fernando and Gonzalo Pizarro, and -quartering Philipillo, who was taken prisoner in the ambush of the Inca. - -Manco Capac finding that Almagro was too strong to be easily ejected, -retired to the mountains, but his brother Paullu remaining at Cuzco, -was raised to the throne of Peru by Almagro. It was some time before -all these untoward tidings reached the ears of the new Marquess -Pizarro; he first heard of the attack of the city by the Inca, and -imagining it to be a trivial affair, detached small parties at -different periods to the assistance of his brothers; none of these -reached their destination, being always cut off by the Peruvians in the -narrow and difficult passes of the mountains. Some few of these people -escaping from the massacre, which always took place on their being -surprised, returned to Lima, and related the fate of their companions -to the Marquess, who recalling all his outposts, nominated Alvarado to -the command of the army, and sent him towards Cuzco, with 500 men; but -being closely invested at Lima by the Peruvians, under Titu Yupanqui, a -brother of Manco Capac, he sent off all his vessels to Panama, fearful -that the troops might otherwise desert, and by these ships he implored -assistance from the governors of New Spain and the West Indies. - -Alvarado, after a harassing march, and fighting severe battles with -the Peruvians, halted near the bridge of _Abancay_ on the Apurimac; -at which place he was met by a messenger from Almagro, insisting on -his acknowledging the title he bore to the government of Cuzco. An -unsatisfactory reply being sent, Almagro advanced to attack the army -under Alvarado, and by dint of bribery, corrupting the greater part of -it, obtained a bloodless victory on the 12th of July, 1537. - -Pizarro hearing nothing of his general, and receiving a strong -reinforcement from Hispaniola, marched from Lima with 700 men to -relieve his brothers at Cuzco from the Peruvians, not having yet heard -of the usurpation of Almagro. Having marched twenty-five leagues, he -received the intelligence of the death of one of his brothers, the -imprisonment of the other two, and of the determined opposition of -Almagro; this news so much alarmed him that he immediately returned to -Lima, and dispatched a messenger to Cuzco to treat with Almagro; but -that officer instead of returning an answer marched to within twenty -leagues of Lima, where he was met by Pizarro who seemed earnest to heal -the breach amicably; but after various endeavours to obtain this end, -he found it necessary to have recourse to force; and Almagro, finding -himself unable to cope with him, retreated to Cuzco, whither Ferdinand -Pizarro pursued him: a dreadful battle then took place near that city, -on a plain called _Salinas_ or _Cachipampa_, in which Almagro was -defeated and taken prisoner, and was soon afterwards brought to trial -and beheaded. - -This important affair being settled, the marquess dispatched troops in -all directions to conquer and subdue those provinces which remained -under the domination of the Indians. In these expeditions, and in -settling the affairs of his government, Pizarro was fully occupied for -two years, during which time he was much distressed by the mutinous -conduct of the Almagrian party, who at last assassinated him on the -26th of June, 1541. - -Soon after the untimely death of Pizarro, Vaca de Castro was appointed -governor, while the court of Madrid were employed in taking measures -to put a stop to the contentions of the colonies. He was removed to -make room for Blasco Vela, who was nominated the first viceroy of Peru, -and who landed at Tumbez in the month of February, 1543. The conduct -of this viceroy increased the disaffection and contention of the -colonists, many of whom siding with Gonzalo Pizarro, chose him as their -leader. After various actions with the royal troops, Gonzalo at last -utterly defeated them in a pitched battle, in which the viceroy was -slain. - -Upon this occasion Gonzalo Pizarro was advised to assume the sceptre -of Peru, but he chose to treat with Spain. During the interval which -elapsed before the return of his ambassadors, Pedro de la Gasca, a -priest, was sent over as president: finding he could not persuade -Pizarro to any terms, he gave him battle, in which the latter was -taken, and being brought to trial by the president, was beheaded on the -10th of April, 1548. - -After this action, Gasca set himself about to reform abuses, and render -the government more stable; he was occupied in this work till 1550, -when wishing to return to a private station, he quitted Peru, and -entrusted the command of the presidency to the royal court of audience, -till the pleasure of the king should be manifested. - -After the departure of Gasca, till the arrival of the second viceroy, -Mendoza, Peru continued to be in a state of continual ferment, which -lasted more or less until his death. The next viceroy was the Marquess -de Canete, who arrived in Lima in July 1557. He was succeeded in July -1560, by the Conde de Neiva, who, dying suddenly, was replaced by -Lope Garcia de Castro with the title of president, until Francisco de -Toledo arrived from Spain, to assume the viceregal government, who had -been only two years in Peru, when he attacked _Tupac Amaru_, the son -of Manco Capac, who had taken refuge in the mountains. A force of two -hundred and fifty men was detached to Vilcapampa under Martin Garcia -Loyola, to whom the Inca surrendered himself, with his wife, two sons, -and a daughter, who were all carried prisoners to Cuzco. - -This unfortunate prince was brought to trial for supposed crimes, and -at the same time, all the sons of Indian women by the Spaniards, were -committed to confinement, under the charge of endeavouring to assist -Tupac Amaru, in overturning the Spanish government. Many of these poor -people were put to the torture, others were banished, and all the males -who were nearly related to the Inca, or who were capable of succeeding -to the throne, were ordered to live in Lima, where the whole of them -died. - -Tupac Amaru was sentenced to lose his head; previous to the execution, -the priests baptized him in the prison, from whence he was led on a -mule to the scaffold, with his hands tied, and a halter about his neck, -amid the tears of his people. Thus ended the line of the emperors of -Peru; than whom, a more beneficent race of monarchs, in a barbarous -state, has never been known. - -The viceroy, Toledo, after continuing sixteen years in Peru, amassed -a large fortune and returned to Spain, when falling under royal -displeasure, he was confined to his house and his property sequestered, -which preyed so much on his mind, that he died of a broken heart. -Martin Garcia Loyola, who had made Tupac Amaru prisoner, married a -Coya, or Peruvian princess, daughter of the former Inca Sayri Tupac, by -whom he acquired a large estate; but being made governor of Chili, he -was slain in that country by the natives. - -After the death of Tupac Amaru, the royal authority was gradually -established as firmly in Peru as in the other Spanish colonies, and -that country has continued to be governed by viceroys appointed by the -Spanish king, up to the present time. The only event of any particular -importance, which has occurred till very lately, was the insurrection -of the natives in 1781, under Jose Gabriel Condorcanqui, a descendant -of, and styling himself Tupac Amaru. He was born in Tongusuca, a -village of Tinta, and had been carefully educated by his family at -home; on the death of his father, he petitioned the Spanish court to -restore him the title of Marquess of Oropesa, which had been granted -to Sayri Tupac, his ancestor; but finding his request unattended to, -retired to the mountains, and giving himself out as the only and true -sovereign of Peru, the Indians flocked to his standard, especially -those in the neighbourhood of Cuzco, who had suffered severely from the -tyranny of the corregidor Arriaga. - -With every mark of the most profound submission, they bound the -imperial fillet on his brow, and he was proclaimed Inca by the title of -_Tupac Amaru the Second_: collecting an immense army he appeared before -the walls of Cuzco, and in the beginning of his campaign, he protected -all ecclesiastics and people born in America, vowing vengeance solely -against the European Spaniards; but his followers, elevated by the -success which every where attended them, began a war of extermination -against all but Indians, the consequences of which were dreadful, and -will ever be remembered in Peru. - -His brother Diego, and his nephew Andres Condorcanqui, favoured this -disposition of the Indians, and committed enormities which it was out -of the power of Tupac Amaru to repress. This insurrection lasted two -years, and he made himself master of the provinces or districts of -Quispicanchi, Tinta, Lampa, Asangara, Caravaja and Chumbivilca; but was -at last surprised and taken prisoner with all his family, and a short -time after this event, they were all quartered in the city of Cuzco, -excepting Diego, who had escaped. - -So great was the veneration of the Peruvians for Tupac Amaru, that -when he was led to execution, they prostrated themselves in the -streets, though surrounded by soldiers, and uttered piercing cries and -execrations as they beheld the last of the children of the sun torn to -pieces. - -Diego surrendered voluntarily, and a convention was signed between him -and the Spanish general, at the village of Siguani, in Tinta, on the -21st of January, 1782; from which time he lived peaceably with his -family, but was taken up twenty years afterwards on suspicion of being -concerned in a revolt that happened at Riobamba, in Quito, in which -great cruelty was exercised against the whites. His judges condemned -him to lose his head, and since that period, Peru has been in a state -of profound tranquillity, though now surrounded by states torn with the -most dreadful convulsions. - -Having now related the principal occurrences concerning the history -of Peru, we shall give a concise description of the people of that -kingdom; and in so doing, shall be led to the general relation of -the manner in which the vast continent of Spanish America has been -governed, and to a summary of the history of the present struggle. - -The Peruvians, at the time they were discovered by Pizarro, had -advanced to a considerable degree of civilization; they knew the arts -of architecture, sculpture, mining, working the precious metals and -jewels, cultivated their land, were clothed, and had a regular system -of government, and a code of civil and religious laws. The lands were -divided into regular allotments, one share being consecrated to the -sun, and its products appropriated to the support of religious rites; -the second belonged to the Incas, and was devoted to the support of -the government, and the last and largest share was set aside for the -people. These were cultivated in common, no person having a longer -title than one year to the portion given him. - -In their agricultural pursuits they displayed great diligence and -ingenuity, irrigating their fields, and manuring them with the dung -of sea fowls procured from the islands on the coast; they also turned -up the earth with a sort of mattock formed of hard wood. In the arts -of architecture they had advanced far beyond the other nations of -America. The great temple of the sun at Pachacamac, with the palace -of the Inca, and the fortress, were so connected together as to form -one great building half a league in circuit, and many ruins of palaces -and temples still existing, prove the extent of the knowledge and -perseverance of these people. - -The immense obelisks of _Tiahuacan_, and the town of _Chulunacas_, -with the mausolea of _Chachapoyas_, which are conical stone buildings -supporting large rude busts, are among the most singular, though -unfortunately the least known of the Peruvian remains; and are equally -curious as the great military roads with their accompanying palaces or -posts; together with the buildings still existing in the province of -Quito, which have already been described. - -Their skill in polishing stones to form mirrors, in sharpening them -to serve as hatchets and instruments of war, was as admirable as the -ingenuity they displayed in all their ornamental works of gold, silver -and precious stones. - -In the religion of the Peruvians few of those sanguinary traits which -so forcibly marked the character of the worship of the Mexicans were -found; they adored the Sun as the supreme Deity, under whose influence -they also acknowledged various dependent gods; and instead of offering -human victims on the altars, they presented to that glorious luminary -a part of the productions of the earth, which had come to life and -maturity through his genial warmth, and they sacrificed as an oblation -of gratitude some animals before his shrine, placing around it the most -skilful works of their hands. - -Next to the sun they beheld their Incas with the greatest reverence, -looking upon them as his immediate descendants and vicegerents upon -earth. The system universally adopted by these patriarchal kings, bound -the affections of their people more firmly to them, than even this -their supposed divine legation; and as they never intermarried with -their subjects, they were kept at so great a distance that their power -was unbounded. The only sanguinary feature displayed in the Peruvian -rites, was in their burials; as, on the death of the Incas, or of any -great curaca or chief, a number of his servants and domestic animals -were slain and interred around the guacas or tumuli, that they might -be ready to attend them in a future state, in which these people fully -believed. When Huana Capac, the greatest of the Incas, was buried, 1000 -victims were doomed to accompany his body to the tomb. - -In ancient Peru the only very large city was Cuzco or Couzco; every -where else the people lived in villages or in scattered habitations: -and as the palaces of the Incas and their fortresses, which were built -in all parts of the country, were rarely surrounded with the houses of -the natives, very few distinct towns remain. - -The ancient Peruvians had traditions concerning a deluge, in which -their ancestors were all drowned, excepting a few who got into caves -in the high mountains; they also adored two beings named Con and -Pachacamac, who created the race of Peruvians in an extraordinary -manner; and they asserted that Pachacamac dwelt amongst them till the -Spaniards came, when he suddenly disappeared. - -But the Peruvians of the present day are a very different people from -their progenitors, as they are timid and dispirited, melancholy in -their temperament, severe and inexorable in the exercise of authority, -wonderfully indifferent to the general concerns of life, and seeming -to have little notion, or dread of death. They stand in awe of their -European masters, but secretly dislike and shun their society, and -they are said to be of a distrustful disposition, and though robust -and capable of enduring great fatigue, yet they are very lazy. Their -habitations are miserable hovels, destitute of every convenience -or accommodation, and disgustingly filthy; their dress is poor and -mean, and their food coarse and scanty; their strongest propensity -is to spirituous liquors, and to that they sacrifice all other -considerations, but which is unmixed with any love for gaming: they -follow all the external rites of the catholic religion, and spend large -sums in masses and processions. - -Soon after the conquest of America, the country and the Indians were -parcelled out into _encomiendas_, a sort of feudal benefices which were -divided among the conquerors, and the priests and lawyers who arrived -from Spain; the holder of this property was obliged to reside on his -estate, to see the Indians properly instructed in religions duties, -and to protect their persons. In return the natives were bound to pay -the _encomendero_ a certain tribute, but they were not reduced to -absolute slavery. This system was variously modified and changed by the -successors of Charles V. who introduced it, till the reign of Philip V. -when it was entirely abolished on account of the continual complaints -which were made to that sovereign of the exactions of the Spaniards, -and their total neglect of the Indians. - -This plan was followed by one still more fatal, that of the -_repartimientos_; according to which the governor or judge of the -district was directed to supply the Indians in his department with -cattle, seed corn, implements of agriculture, clothes and food at a -fixed price. The abuses attendant on such a system were enormous, and -so grievously were the natives afflicted that it at last was abolished -in 1779. Spanish America was incorporated to the crown of Castile -by Charles V. on September 14th, 1559, at a solemn council held in -Barcelona; but notwithstanding this decree declared that the white -inhabitants of America were to have no personal controul over the -Indians, the greatest enormities were still committed. - -In Caraccas the natives were enslaved, and carried to the plantations -in the West Indies, from which they were not freed till after the -repeated remonstrances of Las Casas, Montesino, Cordova and others; -these remonstrances gave rise to the establishment of the royal -audiences and the council of the Indies; the jurisdiction of the latter -extending to every department; all laws and ordinances relative to -the government and police of the colonies originate in it, and must -be approved by two-thirds of the members; all the offices, of which -the nomination is reserved as a royal prerogative, are conferred on -this council, and to it every person employed in Spanish America is -responsible. - -It receives all dispatches, &c., and is in fact the government of the -Indies. - -Since the establishment of this council, the royal audiences or -superior tribunals, and the regular succession of viceroys and -captain-generals, the Americas have been governed, if not with less -rigour, at least with more beneficial results to the Indians. They -are left to manage their own concerns as they please, and no one can -interfere in the disposal of their property. In Peru alone they are -subjected to the _mita_, a law obliging them to furnish certain quotas -for the mining operations, but for which they are well paid, and -generally become resident miners; they are not under the controul of -the inquisition, and pay no other tax than a capitation tribute, which -is very moderate, and rather a mark of vassalage or distinction from -the other classes, than a burden. - -In their towns the Indians are always the magistrates, and they -are allowed to enter into holy orders: but no Spaniard or white is -permitted by the law to intermarry with them or to settle in their -towns, the Indians always residing in a distinct quarter from the -Europeans, and other castes. The Indians and their descendants -are the only people in this part of the world who can endure the -unwholesomeness and fatigues attendant on the mining operations, as -the Spaniards and Negroes sink under the toil in a short time; but -the number of Indians has decreased since the conquest to an alarming -extent from the ravages of the small-pox, and from the fatal effects -of intoxicating liquors, though according to the statements of late -travellers this branch of the population is again on the increase, -probably owing to the general introduction of vaccination, and to the -gradual abolition of the _mita_ in most of the governments. - -The total population of Spanish America is reckoned at about -15,000,000, of which three millions are Creoles, or the descendants -of European whites, 200,000 are Spaniards, and the rest are Indians, -negroes, and the mixed descendants of these and the whites, the Indians -bearing the greatest proportion, as Peru alone contains 600,000; -but the negroes are not very numerous, and exist principally in the -provinces of Caraccas and New Granada. - -Till the end of the last century the ports of Spanish America were shut -against the whole world, the commerce of the country being carried on -exclusively by two or three large ships called galleons from Manilla, -and by an annual fleet to Spain; but these vessels falling continually -into the hands of enemies, and generally containing all the treasure -on which the Spanish court relied, they were at last abolished, and -special licences were granted by some of the governors to carry on a -trade with the Antilles, and in 1797 the court of Madrid was obliged to -open some of the ports. Urged by extreme necessity Cisneros the Viceroy -of La Plata in 1809, declared the port of Buenos Ayres free to all -nations in alliance with Spain. - -The power of Spain was maintained for a long while in her -trans-Atlantic colonies, by a very small number of Spanish troops, who -acted with the national militia on any unforeseen disturbances; the -most profound tranquillity reigned in these happy regions till the year -1797, with the exception of the revolt of Tupac Amaru in 1780, and some -other trifling occurrences. Three prisoners of state, who had been -banished from Spain for revolutionary crimes, arrived at La Guayra, the -port of Caraccas, in the first mentioned year; by dint of argument -these men gained over the soldiers by whom they were guarded, and they -were permitted to hold forth the doctrines at that time so dangerously -afloat in Europe, to the people who came from all parts to hear them, -and finding many admirers among the creoles and mestizoes, formed at -last the daring plan of revolutionizing the country. - -These men, instead of remaining to head the revolt, retired to the -islands in the Caribbean sea, on which active measures being taken by -the government the plot was discovered; several who were concerned -in it were executed, and others banished. Previous to this, in 1781, -some reforms and additional taxes which were introduced in New Granada -created such dissatisfaction that 17,000 men collecting themselves -together marched against the city of Santa Fe de Bogota exclaiming -"Long live the King, but death to our bad governors," but this -insurrection was soon quelled by politic measures. - -After the disturbances in 1797, the country was again tranquil, until -the period when Napoleon Buonaparte, assuming upon the numerous -victories which the French troops had gained, grasped at the sceptre of -Europe. After subduing, in part, the mother country, and depriving the -king of his liberty, he dispatched his emissaries in every direction -to America; these men were, in general, of acknowledged talents, and -endeavoured by every means in their power, under assumed characters, to -widen the breach which had gradually been opening between Spain and her -colonies. - -The Americans, instigated by such advisers, and finding themselves -cut off from all communication with Spain, now intent solely on her -own preservation, were dubious how to act; but the mass of the people -resisted all idea of throwing off their allegiance, and would not -consent to their country being under French controul. Accordingly, -they established juntas in Caraccas, New Granada and Buenos Ayres, in -imitation of similar acts on the part of their Spanish brethren. - -In Caraccas and other places, Ferdinand the Seventh was proclaimed with -all due solemnity, and when it was announced in July 1808, that Joseph -Buonaparte had usurped the throne of Spain, 10,000 of the inhabitants -of Caraccas flew to arms, surrounded the palace of the captain-general, -and demanded the proclamation of their sovereign; this he promised -to do next day, but such was their ardour, that they proclaimed -him immediately themselves. In Buenos Ayres, the viceroy, Liniers, -receiving intelligence of the events in the peninsula, in July 1808, -exhorted the people in the name of Buonaparte to remain quiet; but -Xavier Elio, the governor of Monte Video, accused him of disloyalty, -and separated his government from that of Buenos Ayres; and this -officer afterwards ineffectually endeavoured to persuade that city to -acknowledge the title of viceroy, which he had received from the mother -country. - -In Mexico, the news of the Spanish affairs was not known, till the 29th -July 1808, when a junta was immediately established; and the city of La -Paz in Charcas, in the beginning of 1809, formed a similar junta for -its government; but the viceroys of Buenos Ayres and Peru opposed this -motion, and both sent armies to quell the insurrection, in which they -were successful. - -In Quito a junta was established on the 10th of August, 1809, but -the viceroys of Peru and New Granada, with the greatest promptitude, -detached a force against this city, which compelled the insurgents to -abandon their project. At this time affairs wore a serious aspect in -America; numerous adventurers appeared on her shores, eager to enrich -themselves on the spoils of Spanish power. The partizans of revolution -in Caraccas, the coast of which was more accessible to emissaries from -Europe, formed themselves into a junta suprema, assumed the reins of -government, but still published their acts in the name of the Spanish -monarch. At Buenos Ayres a similar measure was taken; in Chili, the -junta was organized in September, and an insurrection breaking out in -the town of Dolores, near Guanaxuato in Mexico, the whole continent was -now in a state of alarm and tumult. - -In the mean time these proceedings were related to the council of -the regency in Spain, which determined that body to take such active -steps as their circumstances enabled them to do, and the coasts of the -captain-generalship of Caraccas were declared in a state of vigorous -blockade. From this period, the revolt in that province and the -northern parts of New Granada, became daily more alarming; General -Miranda was the commander of the Venezuelan army, in which capacity he -achieved one victory, the result of which can never be forgotten in -the Caraccas. The inhabitants of Valencia were for the royal cause, -and though of very inferior force, resisted the insurgent party in two -actions, in the first of which they were victorious, but in the second -were subdued. - -The 4th of July 1811, was the day on which the congress of Venezuela -proclaimed themselves the representatives of the free provinces of -Caraccas; and the little village of Mariara, close to the beautiful -lake of Valencia, saw the first blood that was spilt in the civil -war of these unfortunate countries. On the return of the king to his -throne, on which he was placed by the glorious and ever-memorable -conduct of the British and Spanish troops commanded by the Duke of -Wellington; he issued a decree on the 4th of June 1814, announcing to -the Spanish Americans, his arrival in his kingdom, ordering them to lay -down their arms, and promising oblivion of the past; to enforce this -mandate, he also sent General Morillo from Cadiz with a well equipped -army of 10,000 men. This army landed on the coast of Caraccas in -April 1815; but the insurgents not paying attention to His Majesty's -commands, the general immediately commenced active measures. From -Campano, where he landed, he proceeded to Margarita, from thence to -Caraccas, and in the following August he besieged Carthagena. - -Previous to his arrival, Boves, a Spaniard by birth, but a person of -low rank, collected a handful of men, attached to the royal cause, -and although destitute of assistance from the Spaniards, who were -besieged in Puerto Cabello, he found means to raise a large body of -troops in the interior, and seeking the insurgent army commanded by -Bolivar, he fought several battles with them, in all of which his band -was victorious, so that he was enabled to overthrow the new government -established at Caraccas. - -This valiant individual, following the career he had so fortunately -begun, dispersed the army of the independents in every direction, but -was killed in storming their last strong-hold, at the moment of victory. - -On the arrival of General Morillo he found the province free from the -independent troops, and therefore commenced his march for Carthagena, -joined by the natives of the country who had formed the army of Boves, -and who assisted him materially in taking Carthagena, and re-conquering -the revolted provinces of New Granada. - -Castello and Bolivar were at this time the leaders of the independent -forces in this country, but dissensions occurring between them, -Carthagena was supplied with only 2000 troops; the siege lasted from -August to the 5th of December, 1815, when the governor and garrison -evacuated the place, and the royal army took possession of it, but 3000 -persons perished through famine during this siege. - -General Morillo now advanced through the provinces of New Granada to -the city of Santa Fe de Bogota, which place he entered in June, 1816, -remaining in it till the following November: during his stay the -leaders of the insurgents, and all who had been criminally engaged, -were imprisoned, shot or exiled. From this period Bolivar, who had gone -to Jamaica, turned his attention again towards Venezuela, planned an -expedition to assist the people of Margarita, and joining Borion, an -affluent native of Curacoa, assembled the emigrants from Venezuela, and -part of the garrison which had evacuated Carthagena. - -Borion was appointed commander of the naval forces, and sailing from -Aux-Cayes they landed in the beginning of May 1816, at La Margarita. - -From this island Bolivar proceeded to Campano, five leagues west of the -city of Cumana, of which he dispossessed the royal forces, and having -armed many light troops who joined him, again embarked and proceeded to -Ocumare; landing at this port he issued a proclamation, enfranchising -all slaves, but was soon afterwards defeated by the royalists in a -severe and hard fought action, after which he retired to Aux-Cayes, -from whence he again brought new reinforcements in December 1816, to -Margarita. On this island he published another proclamation, convoking -the representatives of Venezuela to a general congress, and went -afterwards to Barcelona, where he organised a provisional government. - -At this place he repulsed the royalists under Generals Real and -Morales, with great loss, but in the month following, on the 7th of -April, 1817, the city of Barcelona was taken by the Spanish troops, -and Morillo received an addition of 1600 men from Spain, in the month -of May; since this period the actions between the Spanish troops and -the insurgents have been frequent; the congress of Venezuela has been -established by Bolivar, and again overthrown by Morillo; the islanders -of Margarita have repulsed the Spanish forces, and at this moment -the army of the Independents is concentrated near the shores of the -Orinoco, and the Spanish troops are in possession of the capital and -all the principal towns. - -While these events were going on in Caraccas, the congress of Buenos -Ayres declared its independence. The town of Monte Video was taken -possession of by the Portuguese, and the march of insurrection spread -itself into the remote government of Chili. Mina, who had been -concerned in the Caraccas revolution, undertook an expedition against -New Spain, in which, after sometimes repulsing, and at others being -repulsed, by the Spanish generals, he was at last taken prisoner and -beheaded at Mexico. - -The United States have ejected the adventurers who had established -themselves on Amelia Island in the government of East Florida, and it -appears, that the revolutionary cause is only successful in Buenos -Ayres and Venezuela, in both which provinces, it cannot however be -said to be established, as a large Spanish army occupies part of one, -and the Portuguese troops have partial possession of the other. In -New Granada, Florida, Quito, Peru and Mexico, the insurgents have -very little sway, and in the islands of Puerto Rico and Cuba they are -unknown; consequently the colonies of Spain, so far from being wrested -from her, are still under her dominion; and it appears extremely -probable, that they will remain so. - -Recurring to the subject of the kingdom, which it is the primary object -of this section to describe, we must now treat of its capital, a city -which, from its former as well as from its present importance, may well -justify its pretensions to be the metropolis of Spanish South America. - -_Capital._--LIMA is situated in 12 deg. 2' 25" south latitude, and 77 -deg. 7' 15" west longitude, in the spacious and fertile valley of Rimac, -whence by corruption, the name Lima is derived. This city was formerly -called Ciudad de los Reyes, and was founded by Pizarro, on the 18th of -January, 1535. The name of the valley was derived from that of an idol -of the Peruvians, who was called by way of distinction Rimac, "he who -speaks." This city is an archbishopric, the rental of which is valued -at 30,000 dollars. - -The scite of Lima is very advantageous, as it commands a view of the -whole valley in which it lies. A river of the same name washes the -walls of the town, over which there is an elegant and spacious bridge -of stone. On the north are the vast mountains of the Cordillera of the -Andes, from which some branches extend towards the city; those of St. -Christoval and Amancaes being the nearest. At the end of the bridge is -a gate of noble architecture which leads into a spacious square, the -largest in the place, and beautifully ornamented. In the centre of this -square is a fine fountain with bronze figures; the form of the city -is triangular, its base lying along the banks of the river. This base -is two-thirds of a league in length, whilst the perpendicular may be -estimated at two-fifths of a league, the whole being surrounded with a -brick wall, flanked with thirty-four bastions; it is entered by seven -gates and three posterns. Opposite to the river is the suburb of St. -Lazarus; and its streets, like those of the city, are broad, regular, -parallel, and crossed at right angles; they are also well paved, and -the drains are supplied from the river, thus rendering the place -exceedingly clean. The number of streets has been stated at 355. - -Towards the east and west within the walls are many fruit and kitchen -gardens, and most of the principal houses have gardens watered by -canals. The city abounds with churches, chapels, convents, nunneries, -colleges, and hospitals, and it has a noble university founded in 1576. -All the churches are magnificently decorated, and are in general large, -and adorned with paintings of value. - -The viceroys of Peru usually reside at Lima and keep their court -there, giving public audience every day, for which purpose there are -three fine rooms in the palace. The tribunals of account, of justice, -of the treasury, &c., are also held there, which, with the royal mint, -the court of the municipal body, and the police, afford employment to -numbers of persons, and render Lima the most lively and magnificent -place in South America. - -The viceroy's palace, formerly a fine structure, but which was damaged -by the great earthquake in 1687, the city prison, the archiepiscopal -palace, the council house, and the cathedral, stand in the great -square, and occupy three sides of it. - -In the suburbs, as well as in most parts of the city, the houses are -of wood-work, interlaced with wild canes and osiers, both within and -without, plastered over with clay and white washed; the fronts being -painted to imitate stone. Most of the houses are only one story high -with a flat roof, covered on the top with slight materials to keep out -the wind and sun, as it never rains violently in this part of Peru, and -the rafters which support the roofs are carved and decorated within -side, and covered with clay on the outside. This mode of building -has been adopted, in consequence of the destructive effects of the -earthquakes which have so often devastated Lima. - -On solemn festivals, or on the entrance of a new viceroy, the riches -and pomp displayed in this city are astonishing, the churches being -loaded with massive plate, consisting of tables, candlesticks, statues -of saints of solid silver, the holy vestments and chalices covered with -gold, diamonds, pearls and precious stones, and even on the common days -of office, the decorations of the churches is richer than can be seen -at the most splendid catholic festival in Europe. - -Luxury in dress and splendid retinues are the prevailing passion of -the gentry and people of Lima, so that the public walks and malls are -crowded with carriages. The dress of the ladies is extremely rich; -and even those of low rank never appear without bracelets, rosaries, -and gold images about their necks and arms. The white females are in -general of a middling stature, handsome, of a very fair complexion, -with beautiful dark hair and bright eyes; they are naturally gay, -sprightly and without levity in their outward behaviour, though taxed -with vicious propensities; and all the women of Lima have a great -fondness for music: the dress of the men is also very superb, but they -are said to be in general fonder of gallantry than of following any -useful avocations, though they occasionally show great ardour for the -acquisition of knowledge. - -The theatre of Lima is a neat building, but the performers are said to -be very wretched; coffee-houses were only established here in 1771, -cock-fighting and bull-baiting are the favourite amusements of the -populace, who are also greatly addicted to gaming. - -In Lima the number of inhabitants has been estimated at 54,000, the -monks and clergy being 1390, the nuns 1580, the Spaniards at 17,200, -with 3200 Indians, and 9000 negroes, the rest being mestizoes and other -castes. - -The rich priests, proprietors of estates, military and civil officers, -physicians, lawyers and artizans, compose a body of 19,000, and -the remaining 35,000 are slaves, domestics and labourers; but the -population has declined since the erection of the viceroyalty of La -Plata. - -The climate of this city is agreeable, and though the variation of the -four seasons is perceptible, yet they are all moderate; spring begins -in November, winter in June or July, when the south winds cease, and -this season continues, with the intervention of a second spring or -autumn until November; rain is seldom or ever known at Lima, tempests -rarely happen, and the inhabitants are strangers to thunder and -lightning; but they are infested with vermin and insects during the -summer months, and are always subject to the recurrence of earthquakes, -several of which have nearly ruined the city at different times in the -16th, 17th, and 18th centuries; the one which happened in 1746, being -the most tremendous and destructive, and which took place on the 28th -of October at half after ten at night, continuing for many weeks. The -city was nearly destroyed, numbers of the inhabitants perished, and -the port of Callao was submerged by the sea; twenty-four vessels were -lying in the harbour, nineteen of which were sunk, and a frigate, and -three others carried up by the rise of the waves into the country a -considerable distance from the beach; out of 4000 people, the number -which escaped at Callao was only 200, while at Lima 1300 were buried -under the ruins, and numbers wounded and maimed. - -In Lima, the most common disorders are malignant, intermittent, and -catarrhous fevers, pleurisies and constipations. The small-pox was -formerly very fatal; but in 1802, a merchant vessel, the _Santo Domingo -de la Calzada_, put into Callao, in a voyage from Spain to Manilla; a -philanthropic individual in Spain had sent some vaccine matter on board -of this ship for the Philippines; but as the small-pox was raging at -that time in Lima, Don M. Unanue, the professor of anatomy, hearing of -this precious cargo, and instantly availing himself of it, vaccinated -his patients, which he performed with the greatest success, and since -that period, the Jennerian system having been followed, the virulence -of the small-pox gives way. - -The great wealth of the citizens of Lima is mostly derived from the -mines in the internal provinces, but agricultural pursuits are much -followed, and the pastures in the vicinity feed multitudes of horses, -mules and cattle. The ancient Peruvians had rendered the valley of -Rimac very fertile by intersecting it with small canals, and this -plan has been adopted by the Spaniards who irrigate their spacious -fields of wheat and barley, their meadows, plantations of sugar-cane, -olives, vines, as well as their gardens, which are thus rendered very -productive, but the frequent earthquakes having tended to alter the -good quality of the soil, it consequently requires much care to manage. - -Bread, butter, milk, beef, mutton, pork, poultry, &c., are all -excellent in Lima, and the place is plentifully supplied with fish from -the bay of Callao, and the adjacent villages, as well as from the river -Lima. The wines used in this city are generally the produce of Chili -and the southern provinces, from which the brandies are also brought; -most of the European and dried fruits are also supplied by Chili, but -no manufactures are carried on in the place itself, as it depends -entirely on being the emporium of the commerce of Peru with Chili, New -Granada, Guatimala and New Spain. - -The port of Lima is _Ballavista_ or _Callao_, the former name being -that of the new town which was founded at the distance of a quarter of -a league from the remains of Callao, which had been totally destroyed -by the earthquake in 1746. At the present port there is a fort named -San Fernando, with a garrison to protect the bay, which, on the -south-west is fenced by a barren island called San Lorenzo. Here all -the vessels anchor about two leagues from Lima; and the harbour of -Callao is one of the finest in the South-Sea, the anchorage being deep, -but the ocean always tranquil, and the largest vessels lying in perfect -safety. - -The river _Rimac_ or _Lima_, discharging itself into the sea here, -furnishes an abundant supply of fresh water for the vessels, and every -thing can be procured of which a ship may be in need; as in Callao it -may be said that the productions of the four quarters of the world are -exchanged for each other; the ships from Europe meeting those from the -East Indies, from Africa, and from the northern shores of America. - -Callao is situated in 12 deg. 3' 42" south latitude, and 77 deg. 14' west -longitude, at about five English miles distance from the city of Lima. - - -_INTENDANCY OF TRUXILLO._ - -This province is the most northerly of those in Peru, it is bounded by -the river Tumbez and Guayaquil, on the north-west; Jaen de Bracamoros -on the north-east; the Lauricocha or Tunguragua on the north; the Rio -Guallaga and Pampas del Sacramento on the east; the Pacific on the -west; and the province of Tarma on the south; containing within its -limits seven jurisdictions; viz. Sana, Piura, Truxillo, Caxamarca, -Chachapoyas, Llulia, and Chiloas and Pataz. - -The province of Truxillo along the coast, has a climate in which -excessive heat predominates; whilst in the interior it varies according -to the high or low situation of the districts, from temperate to -frigid. The first district of Truxillo, towards the north, is PIURA, -through which passes the road from Guayaquil to Lima; the whole country -from the northern borders of Piura to Lima being named the _Valles_. -The climate of Piura is hot, though not unhealthy; but the greater -part of the country is uninhabited. The chief towns are Piura, Tumbez, -the frontier of New Granada, Sechura and Payta; and it contains 11,000 -inhabitants, in 26 settlements. - -_Piura_, the capital, is situated in south latitude, 5 deg. 11' and in -80 deg. 36' west longitude. It was the first Spanish settlement in Peru, -and was founded in the year 1531, by Pizarro, who built the first church -in it. The city then stood in the valley of Targasala, near the sea, -and was called San Miguel de Piura, but was removed, on account of -the unhealthiness of its situation, to its present scite, on a sandy -plain. The houses are constructed of bricks, or cane and wood-work, -and have generally only one story. The corregidor, and an officer -employed in collecting the royal revenue, reside here and at Payta -alternately, and the town contains about 7000 inhabitants. It has an -hospital and church; the climate is hot and dry, but not unwholesome, -and water is sometimes scarce in the heats of summer. It is 25 miles -south-south-east of Payta, its port; 208 north-north-west of Truxillo; -480 north-north-west of Lima, and seven from the ocean; and its -territory is fertile, and produces some cotton, sugar, maize and has -extensive woods of Sarsaparilla. - -_Tumbez_ is situated in 3 deg. 6' south latitude, and 80 deg. 6' west -longitude, 280 miles north of Truxillo, and 62 leagues N. of Piura, -on the Rio Tumbez, which discharges itself into the bay of Guayaquil, -opposite the isle of Santa Clara. It is seated a short distance from -the mountains, in a sandy plain, and consists of about 70 houses, -scattered without any order, in which there are about 150 families, -mostly mestizoes and Indians, and along the banks of the river there -are many farms, where they continually employ themselves in rural -occupations. - -Tumbez was the place where the Spaniards first landed in 1526, and -where they were astonished at the immense temples and palaces they -every where observed, no vestiges of which now remain. The road from -this town to Piura is extremely unpleasant, owing to its running along -the sea-coast, and being only passable at low water in some points. -The village of Amotape, the only inhabited place on the road, is 48 -leagues from Tumbez, after which the way lies over a sandy desert, -where even the most experienced guides occasionally lose their way; -and as no water is to be procured here, it is necessary to carry that -article in skins on the backs of mules; near the last stage is a -deposit of mineral tar, which is exported to Callao, for the purposes -of ship-building. - -_Sechura_ is the last town of Piura on the south; it is situated on -the banks of the river Piura, a league from the ocean, and 180 miles -north-north-west of Truxillo, in 5 deg. 32' 33" south latitude. It -contains about 200 houses, with a handsome brick church, and the -inhabitants, who are all Indians, compose about 400 families, being -chiefly employed in fishing, driving mules, or guiding passengers to -Morrope, across the desert of Sechura, which is a waste of sand -extending 30 leagues, of difficult and dangerous passage. - -_Payta_, or _San Miguel de Payta_, in 5 deg. 5' south latitude, and 80 -deg. 50' west longitude, was founded by Pizarro. It is a small place, -consisting of mud houses, having a church and chapel, with the -corregidor's house built of stone. The number of inhabitants is -inconsiderable, and the town is noted only for its port, which is the -chief place at which the ships from New Spain touch, on their voyage to -Lima. Southward of this town is a high mountain, called the Silla de -Payta; the soil of the surrounding country is barren and sandy, and -there being no river, the inhabitants have to fetch their fresh water -from Colan, a village in the bay, four leagues to the north, the Indians -of Colan being obliged to send one or two balsa loads every day. The -occupations of the inhabitants of Payta, who are whites and mulattoes, -is chiefly in landing the cargoes of goods sent from Panama and Lima. - -The bay of Payta is famous for its fishery, in which the Indians of -the surrounding villages are constantly employed; a miserable battery -mounting eight guns, defends this harbour and town, which has been -repeatedly taken and plundered by the English; and Lord Anson's -squadron pillaged and burnt it, in the year 1741. - -The principal rivers of Piura are the _Tumbez_, the _Catamayu_, and -the _Piura_; in this district a branch of the Andes turns towards the -coast, and under the name of Sierra de Pachira, forms Cape Blanco, and -the Punto de Purma. - -SANA is the next district of Truxillo, and extends about 75 miles along -the sea-coast. Its soil is level, and, excepting in the desert of -Sechura, fertile; the heat is however at times insupportable. - -The town of _Sana_ is in a state of decay, in consequence of an -inundation which almost destroyed it, and it was sacked by Davis, -the English adventurer, in 1685. The river _Sana_ runs through the -town, which has obtained the name of _Miraflores_, on account of the -beautiful flowers in its neighbourhood, as well as for being situated -in a fertile and pleasant valley. Sana is 80 miles N. of Truxillo. -Morrope, Lambayeque and St. Pedro are the other most noted towns of -this district, which contains 22 settlements. - -_Morrope_ consists of about 60 or 70 houses, and contains 160 families -of Indians. It is seated on the banks of the river _Pozuelos_, 105 -miles north-west of Truxillo. - -_Lambayeque_, in 6 deg. 40' south latitude, 79 deg. 56' west longitude, is -at present the capital of Sana, in a pleasant and fertile spot, containing -about 1500 houses. The inhabitants, who amount to 8000, consist of -Spaniards, mestizoes and Indians. The parish church of stone is elegant -and much ornamented, and the river _Lambayeque_ runs through the town, -and fertilizes its environs. Some wine is made here, and the poorer -classes manufacture coarse cottons. The road to Lima passes through -this place, which is 95 miles west-north-west of Truxillo. - -_St. Pedro_ contains 120 Indian families, thirty families of whites, -and twelve of mulattoes. It stands on the river _Pacasmayo_, and its -environs produce grain and fruits in abundance. St. Pedro is twenty -leagues from Lambayeque on the high road, and stands in 7 deg. 25' 49" -south latitude. The Andes elevate their crests on the west of the -districts of Piura and Sana. - -The jurisdiction of TRUXILLO, extends twenty leagues along the coast, -and as far in the interior, being composed throughout of beautiful -valleys. In its climate there is a sensible difference between winter -and summer, the former being attended with cold, and the latter with -excessive heat. - -The country is extremely fruitful, abounding with sugar canes, maize, -fruits and vegetables; also with olives and vineyards: the parts -nearest the Andes produce wheat, barley, &c., so that the inhabitants -export corn to Panama. - -On the coast the sugar cane is cultivated with success. The chief -town of the district is _Truxillo_, which is also the capital of the -whole province, and stands in 8 deg. 8' south latitude, and 78 deg. 53' -west longitude, 480 miles south of Quito, 268 north-north-west of Lima, -in a pleasant situation surrounded with gardens, groves and delightful -walks. It was founded in 1535, by Pizarro, at the distance of half a -league from the sea, on the banks of a small river; the houses which -are chiefly of brick, have a very neat appearance, but are low on -account of the frequency of earthquakes; an intendant and the bishop -of Truxillo reside here. The inhabitants amount to 5800, and consist -principally of rich Spaniards, some Indians, mestizoes and mulattoes; -the greatest luxury in this city is that of equipages, few of the -Europeans being without a carriage. - -A revenue office for the province of Truxillo is established in this -town, and it also contains a cathedral, several convents, a college, -hospital and two nunneries. - -Truxillo is surrounded with a low brick wall, flanked by fifteen -bastions; and carries on its commerce by means of its port of -_Guanchaco_, which is about two leagues to the northward, and is the -only good harbour on the coast from Callao to Tumbez. Chocope and Biru -are the most noted places of this district. - -_Chocope_ contains sixty or seventy white families, and twenty or -thirty of Indians. It has a fine brick church, eleven leagues north of -Truxillo. - -_Biru_ in 8 deg. 24' 59" south latitude, contains about seventy families -of whites, creoles and Indians, and its situation is pleasant on the high -road to Lima, in a fertile vale, well watered with small canals. - -The district of _Caxamarca_ lies to the eastward of that of Truxillo, -and extends an immense distance between two parallel branches or crests -of the Andes. It is extremely fertile, producing corn, fruits and all -kinds of esculent vegetables, as well as cattle, sheep and hogs; with -the latter of which a thriving trade is carried on with the lowland -districts. There are also the celebrated silver mines of _Gualgayoc_ -or _Chota_, near Micuipampa, the galleries of which are above 13,287 -feet higher than the sea. The Indians of this extensive district -manufacture cotton for sails, bed-curtains, quilts, hammocks, &c., and -the chief town is _Caxamarca_, celebrated as having been the point from -which Pizarro carried on his operations, and for being the place where -Atahualpa was strangled. The palace of Atahualpa is now inhabited by -the family of the Astorpilcos, the poor but lineal descendants of the -Incas. It is seated in 8 deg. south latitude, and 76 deg. 10' west -longitude, seventy miles from the ocean, on the western slope of the -Andes, at the height of 9021 feet. - -Micuipampa is celebrated for its silver mines, its height above the sea -being 2296 feet more than that of the city of Quito. - -_Chachapoyas_ is the next district towards the east and north of -Caxamarca situated on the eastern slope of the Andes, and embracing an -immense extent of country, in a warm climate. - -It is very thinly inhabited; but the Indians are ingenious in -manufacturing cottons, to which they give beautiful and lasting colours. - -Chachapoyas and Llulia bound the government of Juan de Bracamoros in -Quito. The chief town is _Juan de la Frontera_, or _Chachapoyas_, in 6 -deg. 12' south latitude, and 72 deg. 28' west longitude. - -East of Chachapoyas is the district of LLULIA and CHILOAS, a low, -warm, moist country, covered with forests, so that the greater part is -uninhabited. - -The principal commodity of this country is tobacco and fruits; and the -river _Moyobamba_ flows through the district in its course to join the -Guallaga. The chief town of this district is _Moyobamba_, 300 miles -north of Lima, in 7 deg. south latitude, and 76 deg. 56' west longitude; -and some gold washings exist on the banks of the Moyobamba. - -The last jurisdiction of the Intendancy of Truxillo is that of PATAZ, -including _Huamachucho_; its situation on the slope and summit of the -mountains causes it to enjoy different climates, favourable for many -kinds of grain and fruits; but the chief occupation of the inhabitants -is in working the mines of gold with which it abounds, and its great -commerce consists in exchanging gold for silver coin. The chief towns -are _Caxamarquilla_ and _Huamachucho_, both of little note excepting -for the gold washings in their neighbourhood. - - -_THE INTENDANCY OF TARMA_ - -Comprehends several minor districts, of which Caxatambo, Huamalies, -Conchucos, and Huailas, are the principal. It is bounded by Truxillo on -the north, the Pacific on the east, the Apurimac on the west, and Lima -and Guanca-Velica on the south. - -On the sea-coast its climate is hot, but in the interior it varies, -according to the height of the land. - -We shall not follow the minute divisions of this province, as we have -done those of Truxillo, on account of its being the boundary between -New Granada and Quito, merely describing the chief towns and the -country in their neighbourhood. - -Tarma contains the sources of the Xauxa and Guallaga rivers, the former -of which falls into the Apurimac. The _Juaja or Xauxa_ rises in the -little lake of Chinchay Cocha, in about eleven degrees south latitude, -and after a long and precipitous course, it throws itself into the -small river Mantura, by which it joins the Apurimac. The _Guallaga_ -rises a short distance north of the Xauxa, in a little lake, called -Chiguiacoba, on the opposite side of the mountains, which form the -Cerro de Bombon, whence it flows north, receiving several rivers, till -it passes the town of Guanuco, when it becomes very rapid, and receives -the Monzon from the west, in 9 deg. 22' south latitude, after which, it -follows its original course, and becomes more tranquil. At 7 deg. 10' it -receives the Moyobamba, and after this, four dangerous rapids present -themselves before it reaches Ponquillo at the foot of the mountains. -Its breadth is now 1200 feet, and running through the province of -Maynas; at 5 deg. 4' south latitude, it falls into the False Maranon, -being 450 yards wide, and 34 deep. - -At the confluence, the Guallaga is divided into two branches, and a -lake is formed half a league in breadth and 70 fathoms deep. During the -course of a league, the two rivers seem of equal force, but at length, -the Tunguragua overcomes the Guallaga. The banks of this fine river are -clothed with beautiful trees, enlivened with a great variety of birds, -and one tree produces a sort of tallow or grease, which is used by the -natives for the same purposes as candles. - -Besides these, the beautiful river _Pachitea_ rises in Tarma, in 10 deg. -46', on the east-side of the Andes, first running east, then north, and -called the _Pozuzo_ at its confluence with the Mayro, where it forms -a fine haven, from which there is a direct and open navigation to the -Maranon, which it joins in 8 deg. 46' south latitude. - -The _Lauricocha_ or _False Maranon_, also rises near Caxatambo in -this province; but as this river has been already spoken of, it is -merely necessary to observe, that the lake in which it rises, is near -the city of Guanuco, in 11 degrees south latitude, from which it -directs its course southwards towards Xauxa, forming a circle, when, -after precipitating itself over the east-side of the Andes, it flows -northwards, through Chachapoyas to Jaen de Bracamoros, and thence to -the Ucayale or True Maranon. The course of the Lauricocha is about 200 -leagues from Lauricocha lake to Jaen, and about 150 from thence to its -junction with the Ucayale. The intendancy of Tarma contains many gold -and silver workings, particularly the celebrated mines of _Yauricocha_, -in the Cerro de Bombon. - -The chief towns of Tarma are Tarma, Huamalies, Huialas, Caxatambo, -Conchucos, Guanuco and Pasco. - -_Tarma_ is 103 miles east-north-east of Lima, in 11 deg. 35' south -latitude, and 75 deg. 17' west longitude, in a temperate climate, and -surrounded by a large district, in which the soil is every where -fertile, excepting on the higher mountains, where it is very cold. The -land is chiefly applied to feeding cattle, but many veins of silver of -great importance being found and worked in the district, agriculture -is neglected. Of these mines, the _Yauricocha_, two leagues north of -_Pasco_, the _Chaupimarca_, _Arenillapata_, _St. Catalina_, _Caya -Grande_, _Yanacanche_, _Santa Rosa_, and _Cerro de Colquisirca_, are -the most productive; there are however many others, which are either -unworked, or produce but feebly. The city of Tarma contains 5600 -inhabitants. - -_Huamalies_ is 150 miles east of Truxillo, and is the chief town -of a jurisdiction of the same name, situated in the centre of the -Cordilleras, commencing at the distance of 240 miles north-east of -Lima, and mostly situated in a cold climate extending 120 miles. - -The towns are chiefly inhabited by Indians, who apply themselves to -weaving, and manufacture a great quantity of serges, baizes, and -stuffs, with which they carry on a considerable trade, and there is a -silver mine, named _Guallana_, in this district. - -_Huialas_ is the chief place of a district in the centre of the Andes, -beginning fifty leagues from Lima, in the same direction as Conchucos. -The low parts produce grain and fruit, and the upper abound in cattle -and sheep, which form the great branch of its trade. Some gold is found -in the mines of this district. - -_Caxatambo_ is also the chief town of a district commencing thirty-five -leagues north of Lima, and extending twenty leagues partly among the -mountains, so that the climate is various, but the whole district is -very fertile, producing abundance of grain. The Indians manufacture -baize, and work some silver mines, of which those of the towns of -Caxatambo and Chanca are the most productive. - -_Conchucos_, the chief place of a district or partido of the same name, -beginning forty leagues north-north-east of Lima, and extending along -the centre of the Andes, is noted for its cattle and grain, and for the -great number of looms worked by the Indians. It contains also the mines -of _Conchucos_, _Siguas_, _Tambillo_, _Pomapamba_, _Chacas_, _Guari_, -_Chavin_, _Guanta_ and _Ruriquinchay_. - -_Guanuco_ is the chief town of a partido, commencing 120 miles -north-east of Lima, in a mild and pure climate, with a fertile soil -producing excellent fruits. This town is 120 miles north-east of Lima, -in 9 deg. 59' south latitude, and 75 deg. 56' west longitude, and was -founded in 1539, under the name of _Leon de Guanuco_; the first -inhabitants being those who favoured the royal party in the wars between -Pizarro and Almagro. It was formerly a large city, but is now a small -village, containing the remains of a palace of the Incas, a temple of -the sun, the ruins of the houses built by the conquerors, some marks of -the great road from Cuzco to Quito, a church and three convents. - -_Pasco_ is on the borders of the small lake de los Reyes, and is -chiefly noted as being the place in which the office of the provincial -treasury is held, and from which the mines of the Cerro de Bombon or -Yauricocha are named. - - -_INTENDANCY OF LIMA._ - -This province contains several districts; it is bounded on the north -by Truxillo, east by Tarma and Guancavelica, west by the Pacific, and -south by Arequipa. - -Its principal districts are Chancay, Huarachiri, Lima, Canta, Canete, -Ica, Pisco and Nasca. - -Lima is the seat of the royal audience, which was established in 1542, -and contains one archbishopric and four bishoprics in its jurisdiction, -viz. those of Truxillo, Guamanga, Cuzco, and Arequipa. - -The revenue of the archbishop of Lima is 30,000 dollars per annum; he -has, besides the above bishops, those of Panama, Maynas, Quito, and -Cuenca, as suffragans. - -In this province rain is seldom or ever known to fall on the west of -the Cordillera of the Andes, which runs along its eastern side; on the -sea-coast it is very hot, but as the land rises towards the interior, -the air becomes cooler and milder. - -The wealth of the province consists chiefly in the produce of the mines -of Tarma, which are worked by proprietors in Lima; but agricultural -pursuits are not neglected, and the whole vale may be said to be -cultivated. - -Lima is noted as being the place where the grains of Europe were first -planted, as Maria de Escobar, the wife of Diego de Chaves, carried -a few grains of wheat to Lima, then called Rimac, shortly after the -conquest. She sowed these grains, and the produce of the harvests she -obtained, was distributed for three years among the colonists; so that -each farmer received twenty or thirty grains. It increased rapidly, -but in 1547, wheat bread was still a luxury in Cuzco that was hardly -to be obtained. Some idea may be formed of the difficulty in procuring -articles of utility or luxury in the early periods of the settlement -of these countries, from the circumstance of Benalcazar, the conqueror -of Quito and Popayan, purchasing a sow at Buza, for a sum equal to -166_l._ sterling, which sow was killed for a feast; the riches of the -conquerors must consequently have been immense. In the middle of the -16th century, two hogs were worth 300_l._; a camel from the Canaries, -1400_l._; an ass, 320_l._; a cow, 50_l._; and a sheep, 8_l._ The camels -that were introduced both in Peru and Caraccas, did not thrive, and -their utility was superseded in the former country by the vicunas, -llamas, &c.; and in both by mules. - -The chief town of the intendancy of Lima is LIMA, which being also the -capital of Peru has been already described. The other towns of most -note are Guara, Guarachiri, Chancay, Canta, Canete, Ica, Pisco and -Nasca. - -_Guara_ consists of a single street containing 200 houses, and many -Indian huts, with a parish church and convent, and is chief town of a -district of the same name, which is covered with plantations of sugar -canes, corn, maize, &c. At the south end of Guara stands a large tower -and fortified gate, which protects a stone bridge, under which flows -the river Guara, and separates the suburb of the Indians from the town. -Guara is in 11 deg. 3' 36" south latitude, near the Pacific Ocean. This -town lies on the high road to Lima from Truxillo, and on this road are -many magnificent remains of the tambos, or palaces of the Incas. - -_Guarachiri_ is the chief place of a partido, commencing in the Andes, -six leagues east of Lima, in which the valleys and lower grounds are -the only inhabited parts; and these being very fertile, produce wheat, -barley, maize and other grain in great abundance. - -The high mountains of Guarachiri, and the neighbouring district of -Canta, contain excellent coal, but on account of the difficulty and -high price of carriage, it cannot be used in Lima; cobalt and antimony -have also been found in Guarachiri, which likewise contains several -silver mines of which that of _Conchapatu_ is the most noted. - -This town is situated in 11 deg. 55' south latitude, and 76 deg. 18' -west longitude, 50 miles east of Lima. - -_Chancay_, in 11 deg. 33' 47" south latitude, is also the chief town of -a district lying in the valley north of Lima, having the river Passamayo -running through it, and fertilizing its plantations; the chief growth -of which is maize, for the purpose of fattening hogs for the market of -Lima. Chancay is fourteen leagues from Guara and twelve from Lima, on -the high road from Tumbez; the distance from Tumbez to Lima being 264 -leagues. Chancay contains about 300 houses, and many Indian huts, with -a large population, most of the inhabitants being very rich. - -_Canta_ is the chief town of a jurisdiction of the same name, beginning -five leagues north-north-east of Lima, terminating on the district of -that city, and extending above thirty leagues to the north, over the -eastern branch of the Andes; so that its climate differs according to -its situation, on the tops, sides, or valleys of the Cordillera. It -supplies the markets of Lima with fruits; the upper plains affording -pasturage for innumerable flocks of sheep, which belong to the rich -inhabitants of the capital of Peru. - -_Canete_ is the chief place of a district of the same name, commencing -six leagues south of Lima, and extending along the coast for about -thirty leagues; the climate is the same as that of Lima, and the soil -being watered by several small streams, produces vast quantities of -wheat, maize and sugar canes; these plantations are mostly the property -of the inhabitants of Lima. At a place called _Chilca_, ten leagues -south of Lima, saltpetre is found in great quantities: the Indians -of this district trade with the capital in poultry, fish, fruits and -vegetables. - -_Ica_, _Pisco_ and _Nasca_ compose a jurisdiction bordering on Canete -and extending sixty leagues along the coast, but interspersed with -sandy deserts. Great quantities of wines are made in this district, -which is fertile wherever the lands can be irrigated from the rivers. -Brandy is also an object of export, chiefly to Guamanga, Callao, -Guayaquil and Panama. Olive plantations are numerous, as well as those -of maize, corn and fruit trees. The country round Ica is noted for -abounding in carob trees, with the fruit of which vast numbers of asses -are fed. The Indians on this coast live by fishing, their salted fish -being eagerly sought after in the interior. - -The town of _Ica_ or _Valverde_ is situated in a valley, and contains -about 6000 inhabitants, its principal commerce consisting in glass, -wine and brandy; it stands in 13 deg. 50' south latitude, and 75 deg. -28' west longitude, 140 miles east-south-east of Lima. - -_Pisco_ was formerly situated on the shore of the South-Sea, but -in 1687, an earthquake, accompanied by an inundation, destroyed -the old town, and it was rebuilt by the inhabitants a quarter of a -league further inland. It contains about 300 families, most of whom -are mestizoes, mulattoes and negroes; the whites being the least -predominant: the road of Pisco is a fine anchoring ground, capable of -holding a large navy, and sheltered from the south-east and south-west -winds, which are the most violent in this quarter. Pisco is 118 miles -south-south-east of Lima, in 13 deg. 46' south latitude, and 76 deg. -9' west longitude. - -_Nasca_ has a fine harbour, but the town is in a state of decay; the -surrounding country is fertile in vines and sugar canes, and is watered -by a river of the same name. Nasca is 190 miles south-east of Lima, in -14 deg. 48' south latitude, and 75 deg. 6' west longitude. - - -_INTENDANCY OF GUANCAVELICA._ - -This province lies almost entirely in the mountains, and is bounded on -the north by Tarma, east by Lima, west by Cuzco, and south by Guamanga. - -The climate of this country is in general cold, owing to the high -situation of the land which is surrounded by the lofty peaks of the -Andes; its districts are chiefly those of _Xauxa_ and _Angaraes_, the -latter of which is about seventy-two miles in length from east to west, -and twelve in width, of a very irregular figure, being bounded by the -Cordillera on the west; this district produces wheat, maize and other -grains, although its climate is in general cold, being temperate only -in the valleys; in these are cultivated the sugar-cane, some fruits -and herbs, and a strong grass which serves for fuel in the ovens in -which the quicksilver is extracted; from the sale of this fuel great -emolument is derived when the mines are in work. The district abounds -in cattle, and as mercury is found in it, it also produces various -earths used in painting. The head waters of some of the streams which -join the Apurimac are in this jurisdiction, which contains about thirty -Indian villages. - -The intendancy of Guancavelica is chiefly of note on account of the -mercury mines it contains, there being only one silver mine of any -importance. The quicksilver of Peru is only found near Valdivui in the -district of Pataz, near the great Nevado de Pelagato; in the district -of Conchucos, to the east of Santa; in the district of Huamalics, to -the south-east of Guarachuco, at the Banos de Jesus; in the district -of Guialas near Guaraz, and near Guancavelica; of all those places -_Guancavelica_ is the only one which has ever produced that useful -mineral in great abundance, the principal mine being situated in the -mountains of _Santa Barbara_, south of the town of Guancavelica at the -distance of more than a mile; it was discovered by the Indian Gonzalo -de Abincopa, in the year 1567; but appears to have been known in the -time of the Incas, who used cinnabar in painting themselves, and they -are said to have procured it in this neighbourhood. The mine was opened -in September 1570; it is divided into three stories, named _Brocal_, -_Comedio_ and _Cochapata_, the last of which the government forbid to -be worked, the bed containing red and yellow sulfuretted arsenic or -orpiment, which was the cause of many deaths. - -This mine is free from water, and contains galleries cut in the solid -rock at an immense expence. There has been extracted from it up to the -year 1789, 1,040,452 quintals, or 136,573,162 pounds troy, being 4 or -6000 quintals annually; 50 quintals of tolerable mineral containing -and yielding by distillation eight or twelve pounds of mercury. The -cinnabar is found in a bed of quartz freestone of about 1400 feet in -thickness, in strata and in small veins, so that the metalliferous -mass averages only from 196 to 229 feet in breadth. Native mercury -is rare, and the cinnabar is accompanied with red iron ore, magnetic -iron, galena and pyrites, the crevices being frequently variegated with -sulphate of lime, calcareous spar, and fibrous alum, and the bottom of -the mine is 13,805 feet above the level of the sea. This mine employed -seven thousand Peruvian camels, or alpacas, and llamas in carrying the -ore to the furnaces of the town; which animals were governed by dogs -trained for the purpose. - -Carelessness, or rather the avidity of the overseers destroyed this -celebrated mine for a time, as this being the only royal mine in -Spanish America, these men were anxious to obtain as much profit and -credit as they could by sending great quantities of the mineral to the -royal office. The gallery of the _Brocal_, which was the uppermost, -was supported by pillars of the rock containing the ore; as the -mineral became scarcer in the body of the mine, these pillars were -thinned, and at last cut away, so that the roof fell in and hindered -all communication with the other parts. At present, it is said, some -attempts are making, owing to the dearth of mercury from China, to -re-open the gallery; but the silver works of Peru are mostly supplied -from small veins which are found in other parts of the same chain of -mountains, near _Silla Casa_; these veins generally traverse alpine -limestone, are full of calcedony, and although thin, they cross and -form masses, from which the Indians, who are allowed to work them, are -said to obtain 3000 quintals annually by merely uncovering the surface. - -The chief town of this intendancy is _Guancavelica_, thirty miles -north-west of Guamanga, in 12 deg. 45' south latitude, and 74 deg. 46' -west longitude. It was founded, in 1572, by the viceroy Toledo, and stands -in a breach of the Andes, being one of the largest and richest cities -of Peru. The temperature of the air at Guancavelica is very cold, and -the climate changeable, as it often rains and freezes on the same day, -in which there are tempests of thunder, lightning and hail. - -The houses are generally built of tufa found near a warm spring in the -neighbourhood, and there is a dangerous torrent near the city, which -is crossed by several bridges. This town was founded on account of the -quicksilver mines of Santa Barbara, from the working of which the -inhabitants derived all their subsistence. - -In this intendancy with its dependencies of _Castro Vireyna_ and -_Lircay_ there is one mine of gold, eighty of silver, two of -quicksilver, and ten of lead. - -Guancavelica is 12,308 feet, and the neighbouring mountain of Santa -Barbara 14,506 feet, above the level of the sea. - -The number of its inhabitants is now only 5200, probably owing to the -abandonment of the mine. - -The other towns of most note are Xauxa and Castro Vireyna. - -_Xauxa_ or _Jauja_ is the chief town of a district on the southern -extremity of Tarma, reaching to about forty leagues from Lima, in the -spacious valleys and plains between two parallel chains of the Andes. -The river Xauxa runs through this district, in which there are several -pretty towns or large villages well inhabited by Spaniards, Indians and -Mestizoes. - -The soil produces plenty of wheat and other grains, together with a -great variety of fruits, and the city is on the great road of the -mountains to Cuzco, Paz, and La Plata; it borders on the east, as -well as the district of Tarma with the country between the Andes and -the Apurimac, inhabited by fierce and wild Indians, some of whom have -made inroads into these jurisdictions; the missionaries have however -succeeded in establishing villages amongst them, the nearest being the -town of _Ocopa_. - -_Castro-Vireyna_ is the chief town of a district of the same name, -which lying on the Cordillera, has a very various climate, and produces -the fruits of the tropic and temperate regions. - -On its great plains, which are in the highest and coldest parts, are -numerous flocks of the Vicuna, or Peruvian sheep, whose wool is the -chief article of commerce. - -This animal prefers the coldest and highest parts of the Andes, and is -rarely seen north of the line; they formerly were very numerous in all -the mountains of Peru, till they were so much hunted for the sake of -their fleeces, that they are now caught with great difficulty, and are -only to be seen wild in the most inaccessible parts of the southern -Andes. - -The town of Castro Vireyna is 125 miles south-east of Lima, in 12 deg. -50' south latitude, and 74 deg. 45' west longitude. - - -_THE INTENDANCY OF GUAMANGA._ - -Is bounded on the north by Guancavelica and the uncultivated countries -on the banks of the Apurimac, east by the same and Cuzco, west by Lima, -and south by Arequipa. - -It contains several fine districts, of which Guanta, Vilcas-Guaman, -Andagualas, Parina Cocha and Lucanas are the chief, with that of -Guamanga itself. - -The capital is _Guamanga_, situated in 12 deg. 50' south latitude, and -77 deg. 56' west longitude, in a wide and beautiful plain, watered by a -fine river, and having a healthful climate. The buildings are of stone, -and are equal to any in Peru, and the city is decorated with fine squares, -gardens and walks, which render it a very pleasant residence. The -soil in the surrounding district is fertile in grain and fruit, the -chief articles of commerce being cattle, hides and sweetmeats, with -the produce of several mines; sixty of gold, 102 of silver, and one of -quicksilver, having been wrought in this and the dependent district of -Lucanas. - -Guamanga was founded by Pizarro in 1539, and is the see of a bishop, -whose annual revenue is 8000 dollars. - -This city has three churches, one for the whites, and the others for -the Indians; as well as the cathedral, several chapels and convents, -and a university, with a good revenue, in which the study of divinity, -philosophy and law is followed. The number of inhabitants is 26,000, -including Spaniards, mestizoes, mulattoes and Indians. - -Guamanga is also called San Juan de la Victoria, in memory of the -precipitate retreat which Manco Capac made from Pizarro, when the -armies were drawn up for battle, and Pizarro founded the town in order -to keep up the communication between Lima and Cuzco. About three -leagues from Guamanga is the town of _Anco_; the territory around which -is infested with jaguars and reptiles. Anco stands in 13 deg. 14' south -latitude, and 73 deg. 10' west longitude. - -_Guanta_ is the chief town of a jurisdiction of the same name, and is -twenty miles north of Guamanga, in 12 deg. 30' south latitude, and 74 -deg. 16' west longitude; the district begins four leagues from Guamanga, -and stretches for thirty leagues north-north-west of it. It enjoys -a temperate climate, and is very fertile, but its mines, which were -formerly very rich, are abandoned. - -In an island formed by the _Tayacaxa_ or _Xauxa_ grows the coca or -betel nut in great plenty, in which, and with the lead produced in the -mines, the commerce of Guanta consists. It also carries on a trade with -the capital, which it supplies with corn and fruits. - -_Vilcas Guaman_ is a district south-east of Guamanga, beginning six or -seven leagues from that city and extending above thirty leagues; Vilcas -Guaman or _Bilcas_ is the chief town, in which is a church, built on -the ruins of a Peruvian fortress. - -The climate is temperate and the district furnishes vast quantities of -cattle. The chief commerce is in woollens, &c., manufactured by the -Indians, and which they carry to Cuzco. - -East of Guamanga, and verging to the south, is the district of -_Andagualas_ with its town of the same name. This district extends -along the valley or plain between two branches of the Andes for about -twenty-four leagues. - -It is the most populous partido of Guamanga, having large plantations -of sugar-canes belonging to the inhabitants of the capital. The river -_Pampas_ which runs into the Apurimac, and several others flow through -this territory, contributing greatly to its fertility; and the number -of its inhabitants is about 12,000. - -_Parina Cocha_ and _Lucanas_ are districts lying between that part of -the chain of the Andes which stretches down in a circular form towards -Arequipa; they abound in mines of silver and gold, and though in a cold -climate, produce grain, herbs and fruits in abundance. The chief towns -of these districts have the same names excepting that of the first, -which is called _Pausa_. - -In the mountains are found herds of huanucos or Peruvian camels, and -the plains and valleys are filled with sheep, goats and cattle, in -consequence of which most of the inhabitants are drovers or woollen -manufacturers. - -In the former district which contains 11,300 inhabitants dispersed in -thirty settlements; there is the lake of _Parina Cocha_ seven leagues -in length and one in width, in which a white bird of the name of -Panuira breeds. This name has been corrupted to Parina, and the word -cocha or lake being added, has given rise to the designation of the -department. - - -_INTENDANCY OF CUZCO._ - -Cuzco contains a number of partidos or districts lying on the west of -the great Apurimac, and on the eastern Cordillera of the Andes; it -is bounded on the north by the Apurimac and the Andes of Cuzco, on -the west by unconquered countries, east by Tarma, Guancavelica, and -Guamanga, and south by Arequipa and the viceroyalty of La Plata, the -boundary line of which runs between the lake Chucuito or Titicaca and -along the chain of Vilcanota, and bounds the district of Paucartambo on -the south. - -The capital of this extensive province is the celebrated city of Cuzco, -which has a peculiar jurisdiction around it, over which its magistrates -exercise their authority. This district extends only two leagues, but -in it the climate is various, and on the highlands the cold is intense, -though in general the temperature is mild. It contains, with the -partido of _Carahuasi_, nineteen mines of silver. - -The city of CUZCO or COUZCO is situated in 13 deg. 25' south latitude, and -71 deg. 15' west longitude, on uneven ground in the skirts of mountains -watered by the small river Guatanay, its north and west sides are -surrounded by the mountains of Sanca, and on the south it borders on a -plain, in which are several beautiful walks. - -Cuzco was originally founded by Manco Capac and his consort Mama -Oello, who were supposed to have reigned in the 12th or 13th century. -He divided it into high and low Cuzco, the former having been peopled -by the Peruvians whom he assembled, and the latter by those whom his -consort had prevailed upon to leave their wandering mode of life. The -first tract forms the north, the latter the southern divisions of the -city; here he founded a temple of the sun and appointed his daughters -to serve as priestesses. - -The Spaniards who took possession of Cuzco, under Pizarro, in October -1534, were astonished at the extent and splendour of the city, the -magnificence of the temples and palaces, and the pomp and riches -which were every where displayed. Cuzco was besieged by Manco Capac -the Second, who took it, but was soon driven out by the Europeans, -and afterwards blockaded the place for eight months; in this and the -subsequent contest between the followers of Pizarro and Almagro, Cuzco -suffered very much, great part of the city having been destroyed. - -On the mountain which surrounds the north part of this celebrated city, -are the remains of the fortress of the Incas, by which it appears that -they intended to encompass the mountain with a wall, constructed in -such a manner, that the ascent would have been impracticable, though it -could be easily defended within. It was strongly built of freestone, -and is remarkable for the immense size of the stones, as well as -for the art with which they are joined. The internal works of the -fortress itself are in ruins, but great part of the wall is standing. -A subterraneous passage of singular construction led from this fort to -the palace of the Incas, and with these ruins, are the remains of a -paved causeway which led to Lima. - -One of the stones designed for the wall lies on the ground near it, and -is so large that it has obtained the name of Cansada, alluding to the -apparent impracticability of bringing such a mass from the quarries, by -a people unacquainted with machinery, or even by those who are. - -Most of the houses of Cuzco are covered with red tiles, and built -of stone; their interior is spacious, and those of the rich highly -decorated; the mouldings of the doors being gilt, and the ornaments and -furniture of the most costly kind. - -The cathedral is a noble building of stone, and is erected on the spot -where the Spaniards rescued the place from the Inca Manco Capac the -Second; it is served by three priests, one for the Indians, and two for -the whites; Cuzco also contains six parish churches, and nine convents, -one of which, the Dominican, is built on the spot where stood the -Temple of the Sun, the stones of that building serving to erect its -church, the altar being paced on the same ground where the golden image -of the luminary was formerly fixed. These convents contain hospitals -for the sick Indians and whites. There are also four nunneries, and the -government of the city consists of a corregidor and alcaldes, who are -chosen from the first people in the place. - -There are four hospitals, two universities, and a college, the latter -being for the children of Indian caciques; and the courts are those of -the royal audience, revenue, inquisition, cruzada, &c. - -The bishop of Cuzco is suffragan of the archbishop of Lima, and enjoys -a revenue of 24,000 dollars annually. - -This city contains 32,000 inhabitants, of whom three-fourths are -Indians, who are very industrious in the manufacture of baize, cotton -and leather, and have a great taste for painting. It formerly contained -many Spanish families, but at present the Indians and castes prevail. - -QUISPICANCHI is a district of Cuzco, beginning close to the city, and -extending thirty leagues from east to west, and thirty-five from north -to south, producing maize, wheat and fruits. Part of this district -borders on the forests inhabited by independent Indians, and which -contain great quantities of coca or betel. - -The chief town is _Urcos_, 12 miles south of Cuzco, and the partido has -26 other settlements, which only contain 7200 inhabitants. - -ABANCAY is another district and town of Cuzco, extending about 26 -leagues east and west, and fourteen broad, and commencing four leagues -north of the capital. It forms, on its northern boundary, an extended -chain of mountains covered with snow. Its climate is in general hot, so -that it contains great plantations of sugar canes, in which fine sugar -of a superior whiteness is made. It has seventeen villages or towns, -the chief of which, _Abancay_, is seated in a fertile and spacious -valley, 60 miles north of Cuzco, in 31 deg. 30' south latitude, and 72 -deg. 26' west longitude, on the river Abancay, over which is thrown -one of the largest bridges in Peru. In this province is the valley -_Xaquijaguana_, in which Gonzalo Pizarro was taken prisoner by Pedro de -la Gasca. The river Abancay joins the Apurimac, which runs through this -district; the junction being to the north of the town. - -On the north of Abancay, and on the east of the Cordillera, named the -Andes de Cuzco, the _Vilcamaya_, _Urubamba_, or _Quillabamba_ river, -at about 12 deg. 30' south latitude, throws itself into the Apurimac, -which, having pursued a north-west course through Cuzco, Quispicanchi -and Abancay, suddenly turns, after meeting the Vilcamayo, to the -north-east; and on the eastern shores of the Apurimac are the small -towns _Vilcabamba_, _Urubamba_ and _Calca_. - -The Andes de Cuzco divide the valley of the Vilcamayo from that of the -Paucartambo river. - -The district of PAUCARTAMBO begins eight leagues east of Cuzco, and is -of great extent, having indefinite bounds on its northern, western and -southern sides. It is mostly uninhabited, its chief town of the same -name lying in 72 deg. west longitude, and nearly in the same latitude as -Cuzco, between the Andes de Cuzco and the chain of Vilcanota, which -separates it from La Plata. The river Paucartambo takes its rise in -this chain, and flows northerly, to meet the Apurimac, which it enters -in 10 deg. 45' south latitude, after a course of 200 miles. The junction -is only a short distance south of that of the Beni, with the Apurimac; -and the country in the vicinity of these mouths, is inhabited by several -independent tribes of Indians. West of Paucartambo, and between it and -the river Beni, is the country called _Chunchos_, also peopled by -warlike tribes. - -The inhabitants of Paucartambo amount to 8000, dispersed in eleven -settlements. - -CALCAYLARES is another district, beginning four leagues west of Cuzco, -and between it and Paucartambo. The climate is exceedingly fine, and -the chief town is _Calca_, above mentioned. - -_Chilques y Masques_ is also a district at the distance of seven -or eight leagues south-east of Cuzco, and extending above thirty -leagues, noted for its producing abundance of grain, and feeding great -quantities of cattle and sheep; but it is chiefly inhabited by Indians, -who manufacture coarse woollens. - -The jurisdiction of COTABAMBA begins twenty leagues south-west of -Cuzco, and extends thirty leagues between the rivers Abancay and -Apurimac, which are separated from each other by a ridge of mountains. -It abounds in cattle, and the temperate parts produce maize, wheat and -fruit. - -There are also several gold and silver mines; but most of them are -abandoned. Its chief place is an unimportant town named _Cotabambas_. - -The district of TINTA, or CANAS Y CANCHES, commences fifteen or twenty -leagues from Cuzco, and extends in breadth and length about twenty -leagues; the Cordillera dividing it into two parts, the highest being -called _Canas_, and the lowest _Canches_. The latter yields all kinds -of grains and fruits, while the former feeds numerous flocks and -herds; and in the valleys between the mountains, 20 or 30,000 mules, -are annually pastured from the neighbouring provinces. There is also -a great fair for mules at Tinta, which draws people from all parts of -Cuzco. In Canas is the mine of _Condonoma_, formerly noted for yielding -much silver. - -_Tinta_ is the chief town on the west of the Vilcamayo river, at sixty -miles distance south of Cuzco. - -The district of AYMARAEZ commences forty leagues south-west of Cuzco, -and is bounded on the north-west and west by Andahuailas; east by -Cotabamba, west by Parinacocha, and south by Chumbivilcas. - -It is 120 miles long from north to south, and 26 miles from east to -west, full of mountains; the Andes here taking a circuitous turn -towards the coast, in the southern part of this district, their summits -frequently entering the limits of perpetual congelation. Its valleys -are productive in grain and sugar, and afford sustenance to numerous -herds of cattle, and it is intersected by three rivers, which unite and -form the _Pachachaca_, that flows into the Abancay, and is crossed by -no less than 40 bridges of ropes and wood. - -Numerous veins of gold and silver in its mountains are not worked owing -to the poverty of the inhabitants, of whom it contains 15,000. There -are fifty settlements in Aymaraez, and lake _Chinchero_ is in this -district. - -The jurisdiction of CHUMBIVILCAS begins forty leagues south-east of -Cuzco, and extends about thirty leagues. It is chiefly noted for -feeding large herds of cattle, and contains many unworked mines. - -LAMPA the last district of the intendancy, commences thirty leagues -south of Cuzco, and is of great extent among the mountains, but its -climate being cold, it produces little else than pasturage for numerous -herds of cattle; but this district contains many valuable silver mines, -and the chief town is _Lampa_, ninety miles south of Cuzco, in 14 deg. -55' south latitude, and 81 deg. 44' west longitude. - -Lampa is bounded by the chain of _Vilcanota_, which separates it from -Asangara on the east, in the kingdom of La Plata, and whose crests also -constitute a part of the barrier between the viceroyalty of Buenos -Ayres and the kingdom of Peru. - -The last great division of the Peruvian territories towards the south, -is-- - - -_THE INTENDANCY OF AREQUIPA_, - -Which is bounded on the north by those of Lima, Guamanga, and Cuzco; -on the east, by Cuzco and the viceroyalty of La Plata; on the west by -the South Sea or Great Pacific Ocean; and on the South by the desert of -Atacama in the viceroyalty of La Plata. - -It contains several districts, of which Arequipa, Camana, Condesuyos, -Cailloma, Moquehua, and Arica, are the most important. - -The district of AREQUIPA PROPER, contains the capital of the -intendancy, also called _Arequipa_, which is situated 217 leagues -south-east of Lima, sixty south-west of Cuzco, and fifty north of -Arica, and is the last town of any note in Peru. The city of Arequipa -stands in 16 deg. 16' south latitude, and 71 deg. 58' west longitude, -in the valley of Quilca, twenty leagues from the Pacific. It is one -of the largest towns in the Peruvian government, containing 24,000 -inhabitants, and was founded in 1539 by order of Pizarro in a bad -situation, but was soon afterwards removed to its present scite. This -town is well built, most of the houses being of stone and vaulted, -and are much decorated on the outside. It is watered by the Rio -Chile, which is conducted by sluices over the neighbouring fields, -and by canals through the city, serving at once for convenience and -cleanliness. The climate of Arequipa is remarkably good, though -frost is sometimes known, but the cold is never intense, or the -heat troublesome. The surrounding district, which is about sixteen -leagues in length, and twelve wide, is always clothed with verdure, -and presents the appearance of a perpetual spring, its plantations -producing sugar, wheat, maize, and potatoes, and it carries on also a -commerce with the neighbouring provinces in wine and brandy. - -The port of Arequipa is _Aranta_, at twenty leagues distance, the -harbour of which is deep, but difficult of access. - -Arequipa is the see of a bishop, who enjoys a revenue of 16,000 -dollars. This bishopric was erected on the 20th July 1609. - -The public buildings consist of a cathedral with a parish-church for -the Indians, six convents, a college, seminary, hospital, and three -nunneries, with the revenue office, &c. - -This city has been repeatedly devastated by earthquakes, which -have four times totally ruined it; and a volcano in its vicinity, -named _Guayna Patina_, contributed to destroy the devoted town by a -tremendous eruption, on the 24th of February 1600. - -The district of CAMANA lies along the shore of the South Sea, north -of Arequipa, and is very large, but contains many deserts, extending -on the east to the chain of the Andes. Its temperature is nearly the -same as the former, excepting on the mountains, where it is cold. It -contains many old silver mines, but these being neglected, its chief -trade consists in supplying the mines of the neighbouring district with -asses and other beasts of burthen. The principal town of the same name -is seventy miles north-west from Arequipa, on the river Camana near its -confluence with the South Sea. - -The next district to the north and bounding Lima, is CONDESUYOS DE -AREQUIPA, extending about thirty leagues. It is chiefly inhabited by -Indians who breed the cochineal insect, with which they supply the -woollen manufactures of the adjacent districts. Condesuyos abounds in -gold and silver mines, but they are unworked. - -_Ocona_ is situated in this district, and is a port on the Pacific, -ninety-six miles west-north-west of Arequipa, in sixteen degrees south -latitude, on the Rio Ocona, which rises in the interior, and receives a -small river flowing from lake Parina Cocha. - -CAYLLOMA is the next jurisdiction bounding the kingdom of La Plata -on the east, and Cuzco on the north; it lies entirely among the -Cordilleras of the Andes, which here divides its western branch into -several ramifications, approaching very near the South Sea. Caylloma -is famous for containing a very high mountain of the same name, and -the sources of the _Apurimac_ or Genuine Maranon, which rises in a -small lake formed by the curvature of the chain of the Andes, and -flows through a long valley made by two parallel ranges of the same -mountains, which divide its bed from that of the Vilcamayo on the east. -The source of the _Apurimac_ is in about 16 deg. 10' or 20' south -latitude. - -Caylloma contains, several badly worked mines of silver; but the -cold is so intense, owing to the great height of the Andes, that the -inhabitants who have settled in it, are obliged to have recourse to the -neighbouring districts for grain, fruits, &c.; and the country abounds -with wild asses and beasts of prey. - -_Caylloma_, the principal place, is a village on the eastern range of -the Andes, at the silver mines of the great mountain of the same name. -It contains an office for receiving the king's-fifths, and for selling -the quicksilver necessary in the extraction of the metals. - -South of Arequipa, at the distance of forty leagues, lies the district -of MOQUEHUA, at sixteen leagues from the Pacific. This jurisdiction -extends forty leagues to the south, in a fine climate and fertile soil, -adorned with large vineyards, producing great quantities of wine and -brandy, which constitute its whole commerce, and with which it supplies -all the provinces, as far as Potosi on the Andes by land carriage, and -by sea to Lima; and the fruits of Moquehua are also numerous and good, -among which are olives of excellent quality. - -The chief town of the same name is principally inhabited by Spaniards -and mestizoes, who are in general opulent; it is seventy miles south of -Arequipa, in 17 deg. 20' south latitude, and 70 deg. 56' west longitude. - -The most southerly district of the intendancy of Arequipa, and the -last of the kingdom of Peru, is ARICA; it is bounded on the north by -Arequipa and Moquehua, west by the Pacific, east by the Cordillera -and Charcas, and south by the desert and province of Atacama in the -kingdom of La Plata. It is eighty-two leagues in length, north-west -and south-east; and sixteen wide, east and west; composed of valleys -commencing from the Andes and running to the Pacific. The ranges -separating these valleys are arid and unfruitful, while the vales -themselves grow maize, wheat, &c. Long-pepper is also cultivated, and a -thriving trade is carried on with this, and with cotton, sugar, olives, -wines, and brandies. The mountains feed numerous herds of cattle, and -are famed for the vicunas, llamas, &c.; but the climate is hot, and in -the higher parts inclement. - -The chief town is _Arica_, in 18 deg. 26' south latitude, and 70 deg. 18' -west longitude, 210 miles north-west of La Plata, and 270 north-west of -Atacama, in a beautiful valley on the shore of the Pacific, with a good -port, much frequented by the coasting vessels. It was formerly a large -place, but having been destroyed by an earthquake in 1605, and sacked -by the English in 1680, most of the inhabitants removed to _Tacna_ -twelve leagues distant, where the climate is better. Near the small -port of Yquique are the celebrated silver mines of _Huantajaya_ already -mentioned. - -Having now treated of the known provinces of Peru, we shall give some -account of those countries which lie on the east of the Andes, between -the intendancies and the frontier of Portuguese America. - -By the most recent authorities it appears that the viceroyalty of La -Plata is supposed to extend to the frontiers of Jaen de Bracamoros -and Maynas in New Granada; but as it is not distinctly stated where -its limits in this quarter are, it will be better to follow the old -boundary of Peru, on the north-east and east. - -Within the confines of that extensive territory, lying between the -Andes, the Guallaga, the Maranon, or Ucayale, and the western frontiers -of the Portuguese settlements, are several immense tracts of land, -known by the names of PAMPAS DEL SACRAMENTO; COLONNA, or THE LAND OF -THE MISSIONS; CHUNCHOS, &c. - -The PAMPAS DEL SACRAMENTO, in their restricted sense, include all the -country between the Guallaga on the east, Maynas on the north, the -Ucayale on the west, and the Apurimac on the south. - -It consists of immense plains, and was so called by the Jesuits; but it -is now usual to give the same name to the whole country denominated the -Land of the Missions, and extending from the Ucayale to the Portuguese -limits, bounded only by the Amazons on the north, and embracing 8000 -square leagues. The Jesuit missionaries succeeded in establishing -several villages among the numerous nations who inhabit this region, -through which flows the Ucayale. Father Girval is the most recent -traveller in this great steppe, and the information he has given -concerning the country, is not uninteresting. - -Embarking on the lake of the Great Cocama, at the junction of the -Guallaga and Tunguragua, in Maynas, he went to the confluence of the -true and false Maranons, near St. Joachin de Omaguas, (a Spanish fort, -at the distance of 180 miles from St. Pablo de Omaguas, the most -westerly Portuguese settlement.) Having two canoes with 14 Omaguan -Indians to row them, he soon passed into the Ucayale, which he ascended -with great resolution, frequently meeting with little fleets of -canoes, manned by unknown tribes, from whom it required all his address -to escape; and after 14 days' rowing, there appeared on the west a -chain of mountains, running south-east and north-west. - -In two days after this, he reached the little settlement of Sariacu, -among the Panos, then the habitation of Anna Rosa, an Italian lady, -educated at Lima; passing this, he reached the river Manoa, which he -ascended, with the view of seeing if a passage could be had to Maynas, -but it was found almost impracticable, on account of the thick forests, -and the precipices; therefore again descending the Maranon, he arrived -at the missions of Maynas, after an absence of four months. - -In this voyage, Father Girval found that there existed several singular -tribes of Indians, of whom the _Conibos_ were nearly as fair as -Europeans, but that they were discoloured by the bites of mosquitoes, -and by painting their skins. Their customs were much the same as those -of the other American Indians, in a state of nature. - -In the second voyage of Girval, in 1791, he was unaccompanied by any -soldier or white person; and again ascending the Ucayale, found the -_Casibos_, a fierce tribe on the eastern banks, but the Conibos still -appeared to be the principal navigators of this part of the stream, and -were the most humane; the sound of their rude flutes indicating peace, -and a desire to show hospitality. - -After passing the Conibos, they met the canoes of the _Panos_, and -sixty of these accompanied him to Anna Rosa's village, where he found -that she had built a little convent, and that the tribe obeyed her as -their chief, with great devotion. - -In twenty days' navigation from Sariacu, in the latitude of Tarma, he -found the _Piros_, whose country produces a species of cinnamon, and in -which a settlement has since been made. - -Father Girval is said to have passed 400 miles up the Genuine -Maranon, from its confluence with the Tunguaragua; to have discovered -twenty-five tribes, and to have partly persuaded the _Piros_, the -_Chipeos_, the _Panos_, and the _Conibos_, to become Christians. - -He found the worship of most of these tribes to consist in the -adoration of the moon, and evil spirits. In war they always choose a -chief noted for his courage and capacity, and make prisoners of the -women and children of their enemies, slaying the men. Some tribes -were gentle and humane, while others resembled tigers more than human -beings; of these the _Casibos_, and _Carapochas_, were anthropophagi. - -The _Capaguas_, a tribe on the Mague, were said to cook and eat their -dead, and yet to be one of the most humane of the savages on the -Maranon. - -The Pampas del Sacramento are divided from Peru by a lofty chain of -mountains, from which they appear so level as to resemble the ocean; -they are covered with trees and verdure, and produce balsams, oils, -gums, resins, a sort of cinnamon, cacao, cascarilla, and many other -excellent drugs, spices, &c. - -In these vast levels the trees are very lofty, and form impenetrable -forests unexplored by man, in which wander all the animals peculiar -to the torrid climate of America. The heat is very great, and is -accompanied with much humidity, and thick fogs, so that till the -forests could be cleared, the Pampas would not be a desirable residence -for Europeans; the missionaries have nevertheless been very active in -founding villages in the most accessible parts, several of which now -exist, and new communications are opened constantly with Peru. - -South of the Pampas del Sacramento is a district named _Montana Reale_, -through which runs a chain east from the Andes, named the Cerro de la -Sal, which gives birth to the Pachitea, and several other rivers, -and divides their streams from the Perene, and some others which flow -into the Apurimac; a branch from this Cerro, runs to the north, under -the name of Sierra de San Carlos, and separates the Maranon, after -receiving the Beni, from the Pachitea. There are some missions in this -country, on the banks of the Pachitea, but it is in general inhabited -only by the _Mayros_, a fierce nation, and several other wandering -tribes. - -THE LAND OF THE MISSIONS, or COLONNA, now included in the Pampas, is -that territory on the Amazons, through which flow the Cassiquin and -the Yvari, part of which serves as the boundary of Brazil; the Yutay, -the Yurba, and several other large rivers, joining the Maranon, and of -which little, or in fact, nothing is known. - -CHUNCHOS is a district between the Beni and the Paucartambo, in which -are many wandering tribes, who are very imperfectly known, and whose -country forms the barrier between Brazil and Peru. - -We shall conclude the description of this viceroyalty, by some few -remarks upon the language of the natives, &c. - -The number of dialects totally differing from each other, which are -spoken by the Indian inhabitants of this kingdom, is very great, -and it was the same during the time of the Incas; to remedy which -inconvenience, those sovereigns instituted a general language, which -they ordered all the chiefs who came to their courts to speak; it -was called the Quichuan, or language of the Incas; and was that -which prevailed in the capital; and so unbounded was the power of -these princes, that the Quichuan was soon learnt, even in the most -remote provinces, and continues to the present day to be the general -tongue of the Peruvians, who are averse to making any efforts to -obtain a knowledge of the Spanish; so that the priests consider it as -indispensably necessary to become acquainted with the Quichuan, in -order to retain the Peruvians in their power. - -The sounds _b_, _d_, _f_, _g_, _r_, are wanting, but the language is -harmonious, and its grammar as variegated and artificial as the Greek. -A work has been published at Lima on this subject; and great pains have -been used to render it well known. - -At the time of the conquest, Peru was named by its inhabitants -TAVANTIN-SUYU, or the Four Parts. That on the east, in which was Cuzco, -was named _Colla-suyu_, or the east part; that of the west or coast, -_Chinchay-suyu_; that of the north, _Anti-suyu_; and that of the south -_Conti-suyu_; which titles, with some alterations, were retained till -very lately, in the best maps. The names of most of the principal -places, are still Quichuan; and so little is the Spanish language -and power spread in this country, the first of their conquests, that -upwards of sixty unsubdued nations or tribes, are said to exist within -its territories; though these have been greatly straitened by the -formation of the new government, of which it now becomes necessary to -give a description. - - - - -VICEROYALTY OF - -_BUENOS AYRES, OR LA PLATA_. - - -BOUNDARIES AND EXTENT. - -This government is the most extensive and one of the richest kingdoms -of the New World. It is bounded on the north by the vast steppe of the -Amazons, or, according to some authorities, by that noble river itself; -on the east the territories of the Portuguese and the Atlantic ocean -are its limits; on the west it is divided by the Andes from Peru and -Chili, having also a province bordering on the South Sea; and on the -south its bounds are the Pampas and Patagonia. - -From Cape Lobos in the Atlantic to the most northerly settlements on -the Paraguay its extent may be estimated at 1600 miles; and from Cape -St. Antony, the mouth of the Plata, to the Andes of Chili, its breadth -is at least 1000 miles. - - -POLITICAL AND TERRITORIAL DIVISIONS, &c. - -This country was erected into a viceroyalty in 1778, and at that time -several provinces were added to it from Peru and Chili. At present -it is divided into five governments, Los Charcas, Paraguay, Tucuman, -Cuyo, and Buenos Ayres, which are again subdivided into departments and -districts. - -The whole is governed by a viceroy, whose title is at present disputed, -by the capital being in possession of the insurgent government; and the -ecclesiastical affairs of the country are under the guidance of the -archbishop of La Plata, in Charcas, who has six suffragans. - -Its population is estimated at 1,100,000 Creoles and Spaniards: but the -Indians have not been numbered. - - -HISTORY, DISCOVERY, &c. - -The Spaniards claim the honour of first discovering this country. Juan -Dias de Salis, having sailed from Spain with two ships, in 1515, to -explore Brazil, arrived at the mouth of the Rio de la Plata, and took -formal possession of the land: but, deluded by the friendly appearance -of the Indians, and being off his guard, he was slain, with the few -attendants who had landed with him. In 1526, Sebastian Cabot, then in -the Spanish service, also endeavouring to make the coast of Brazil, -entered the same river, and discovered an island, which he called St. -Gabriel; advancing about 120 leagues, he found a fine river flowing -into the great stream, this he named St. Salvador, and causing his -fleet to enter this river, disembarked his men, and built a fort, in -which he left a garrison, while he proceeded farther up, and also -discovered the Paraguay. Having procured much silver from the Indians, -particularly the Guaranies, who brought the metal from the eastern -parts of Peru, he imagined that mines existed in the country he was in, -and accordingly gave the name of River of Silver, or Rio de la Plata, -to the great stream he had sailed up. - -The Spaniards soon came to a determination of colonizing this valuable -acquisition, and to prevent any interference on the part of the other -nations of Europe, Don Pedro de Mendoza was sent from Spain, and -founded the city of Buenos Ayres, in 1535. From the early times of the -colonization of this country till the establishment of a viceroyalty, -the government was dependent on that of Peru; though the chief of -Buenos Ayres had the title of captain-general. Buenos Ayres continued -for a long time almost unknown, all the inhabited parts of the kingdom -lying at a distance from the ocean, and by the restrictions put upon -its commerce having no other communication with Europe than by the -annual flota from Spain, it languished in indigence and obscurity: but -the resources of so extensive and so fertile a territory could not -remain for ever concealed; as the population, and, consequently, in an -agricultural country, the riches increased, the constant remonstrances -of the people at last opened the eyes of the Spanish government to -the importance of the colony, a relaxation took place in the system -of commercial monopoly which had been hitherto rigorously adhered to, -and at last, in order to put a stop to a contraband trade that had -been carried to an alarming height, register ships were allowed to -sail under a licence from the council of the Indies at any time of -the year. The annual flota dwindled away from 15,000 to 2000 tons of -shipping, and, in 1748, they sailed for the last time to Cadiz, after -having carried on, for two centuries, the trade of Spanish America. - -The register ships now supplied the market with European commodities at -a cheaper rate, and at all times of the year; and Buenos Ayres became -from that time a place of importance. - -Other relaxations in the mercantile system followed soon after: in 1774 -a free trade was allowed between several of the American ports, and -in 1778 seven Spanish sea-ports were declared free, to which in 1788, -five others were added, and these were allowed an open trade to Buenos -Ayres, and the ports of the Pacific. - -The city and the captain-generalship was now advancing with rapid -strides into political importance; this was rendered stable by the -erection of the government into a viceroyalty in 1778; and since that -time its trade has progressively increased. - -Previous to this epoch, not more than fifteen registered vessels traded -to South America, and these not oftener than once in two or three -years; but in 1778, their number at once augmented to 170. They kept -gradually increasing till 1797, when the memorable war began between -Spain and Great Britain, and a death blow was given to the commerce of -Spanish America, for in 1798, it was calculated, that three millions -of hides were rotting in the warehouses of Buenos Ayres and Monte -Video, for which no vent could be had, so active and vigilant were the -British cruizers. Various causes have since contributed to fluctuate -the commerce of this government; sometimes it has risen to an amazing -height, whilst at others, owing to foreign causes, or to its own -internal convulsions, it has been totally at a stand. - -Nothing of any material moment occurs in the political history of -Buenos Ayres, till the year 1806; when there appeared a British -squadron in the Rio de la Plata, from which a body of troops was -landed for the purpose of taking the capital; and this object General -Beresford accomplished in a very spirited manner. He had not however -had possession of the city for more than six weeks, when he was -assailed by such a superiority of force, that his garrison were obliged -to surrender on the 12th of August. Reinforcements arriving under Sir -Home Popham, from the Cape of Good Hope, Fort Maldonado at the mouth of -the La Plata was taken, and Monte Video unsuccessfully besieged. Other -troops commanded by Sir Samuel Auchmuty, coming to the assistance of -their companions, Monte Video was eventually taken by storm, and here -the combined forces waited for a further succour, to resume the attempt -on the capital. In May, 1807, these succours arrived, under General -Whitelocke, who assumed the chief command, and was joined on the 15th -of June by General Crawford. The army now amounting to 8000 men sailed -up the river, and disembarking below the capital, marched towards it. -But no sooner had they entered the place, than they were assailed -from all quarters, with a tremendous fire of grape and musquetry. The -subsequent results are well known; a convention was entered into, and -the British troops evacuated the territories of the viceroyalty. - -When Sir Samuel Auchmuty took Monte Video, the people of Buenos Ayres -were in a state of ferment. They assembled an extraordinary junta, and -deposed their viceroy, Sobremonte, placing in his seat, Don Santiago -Liniers, a French emigrant, who had headed the military force, which -retook the metropolis, on the 12th August, 1806. This man had sunk -himself by a propensity for gambling into a state of great obscurity; -but when the British landed in the country, his superior military -talents, at once placed him above the inactive and ignorant Spanish -officers, who composed the army of the viceroyalty, and by his success -in retaking the capital, the populace looked upon him as the only -man fit to guide them to repel the second attack, which they were in -constant expectation of; thus rose Liniers to the highest station, -which could be obtained in a country, where a very short time before, -he had been unknown. But his reign lasted not long, attempting to -thrust on the people the yoke of Buonaparte, they began to doubt his -sincerity; and aided By Xavier Elio, who had been dispatched from the -junta of Cadiz, to assume the viceregal title, and who had succeeded in -getting possession of Monte Video, they became turbulent. - -To quell this spirit, Liniers sent an expedition against Monte Video; -but while this was going on, Don Josef de Goyeneche arrived from Spain, -to endeavour to mediate between the newly formed parties. He caused -the inhabitants of Buenos Ayres to proclaim Ferdinand the Seventh; -advising at the same time, that a junta should be immediately formed. -So powerful were his measures, that on the 1st of January 1809, the -people rose in all parts of the city, and demanded the establishment of -a junta. They were however dispersed, and the leaders punished by the -troops who remained faithful to Liniers. - -But this temporary triumph was not of long continuance, as in August, -1809, Cisneros, the new viceroy, arrived from Spain, and Liniers -was deposed by the junta, which now solemnly declared their rights. -Liniers was then exiled to Cordova, but the spirit of insurrection -had spread itself too widely by this time to admit of the new viceroy -continuing long in the exercise of his functions; commotion succeeded -to commotion, and on the 26th of May, 1810, a provisional government -assembled itself; deposed the new viceroy and sent him to Spain; -against this measure the interior provinces and Monte Video protested. -Liniers formed an army in the neighbourhood of his retreat, and in -Potosi another assembled under General Nieto. To check these, a force -marched from Buenos Ayres; Liniers and Nieto were defeated, and -themselves and six of their principal officers beheaded. - -This violent measure did not extinguish the loyal feelings of the -natives of the kingdom; a force was put in motion in Paraguay, under -the governor Velasco, who was however taken prisoner and sent to Buenos -Ayres, but Monte Video still remained firm in her allegiance to Spain, -and repelled every attempt of the new government. Since this period -Monte Video has been taken possession of by the Portuguese. Buenos -Ayres, though threatened with a counter-revolution, still retains its -provisional government; the mines of Potosi are in the hands of the -viceroy of Peru; the greater part of Paraguay is quiet, and the spirit -of insurrection is chiefly confined to the capital; which furnishes a -great number of privateers that much annoy the Spanish merchant vessels -trading to Peru and the coasts of the Pacific. It would be endless to -recount the different actions which have taken place between the royal -troops and the insurgents, or between the city of Monte Video and that -of Buenos Ayres; but the latter have been generally victorious, and the -privateers of this new government still dare to show their flag in the -Pacific, and to keep the coasts of Chili and Peru in constant alarm. - - -FEATURES, CLIMATE, &c. - -Buenos Ayres presents on its eastern territories a tract of land -so nearly level that many of its principal rivers, unable to roll -themselves forward with sufficient impetus, form large shallow lakes, -and it has been calculated that the great Paraguay in its course -southward does not fall above one foot in height between the 18th and -22d degrees of south latitude. - -These immense levels are covered with a strong and luxuriant herbage, -which pastures innumerable herds of half-wild horses and cattle. No -hill or swelling rises in this expanse to a greater elevation than 600 -feet above the plain, so that if placed on one of these eminences, the -eye wanders over a space resembling the ocean, uninterrupted, save by -the dark spots formed here and there by the grazeing cattle, or by the -travelling waggons and escorts. - -But on the west the viceroyalty offers a very different scene, a vast -chain of mountains, whose summits are lost in the frozen regions of -the air, elevate their eternal barriers between the plains of the La -Plata, and the kingdoms of Peru and Chili. From this the main chain of -the Andes, a secondary Cordillera, branches out between 15 deg. and 20 -deg. of south latitude, and traversing the province of Chiquitos, it -appears to, and in fact does connect the Andes of Peru and Chili with -the mountain country of Brazil and Paraguay. - -From it flow, on the north, the rivers that empty themselves into the -Maranon, whilst its southern flank supplies the streams which swell the -La Plata. This chain, named the _Cordillera of Chiquitos_, has not been -explored by any scientific traveller, and being inhabited by savage -nations, its structure and disposition are almost unknown. - -The next remarkable features of this interesting country are its lakes -and rivers. In the flat plains of La Plata the _Los Xarayes_ is formed -by the collected waters of the torrents which flow, during the rainy -season, from the mountains of Chiquitos, and the Paraguay swelling over -its banks at that period, inundates an expanse of flat land under the -17 deg. of south latitude to an extent of 330 miles in length, and 120 in -breadth; but when the waters of the Paraguay abate, this lake becomes -a marsh infested with multitudes of alligators. Its banks swarm with -jaguars, pumas, monkeys, stags, &c. and with venomous reptiles and -insects. It is never navigable for any other vessels than canoes and -small barks, in which the Portuguese cross it from their settlements in -Cuyaba. Besides this lake there are many others of great size, formed -in a similar manner, such as _Aguaracatay_, in the 25th degree, _Ypoa_ -in the 26th degree, and _Neembuco_ in the 27th degree of south latitude. - -There are also several smaller ones which are formed by the inability -of the rivers to continue their course without inundating the land in -the vicinity of their banks to find an outlet; these are permanent, but -generally of no depth, such as _Mandiha_ in 25 deg. 20', _Ypacary_ in -25 deg. 23', and the _Iberi_ between the 20th and 29th degree of south -latitude. - -This last lake gives rise to three rivers which fall into the Great -Parana; viz. the Sta. Lucia, the Batela and the Corrientes from its -south-west extremity, and to the Mirinay, which taking a south-east -course falls into the Uruguay. - -Lake Iberi is shallow and filled with aquatic plants, but is -diversified with islands, on which feed deer and other animals; these -islands are unlike the plain surrounding the lake, being in general -covered with wood, and many settlements have been made on its banks, -which are in beautiful situations, supplied with plenty of game, and -fish, and it overflows twice a year. - -_Titicaca_ or _Chucuito_ is not only among the largest but the -most remarkable lakes of La Plata. It is situated between the two -Cordilleras of the Andes, in the north-west part of Los Charcas, and -being formed by the surrounding mountains, has no outlet, and is in -some parts from 420 to 480 feet in depth: its circumference is about -240 miles, containing many islands, of which Titicaca the largest, -is three leagues long and one wide, and is famous as having been the -supposed residence of Manco Capac. - -This lake is navigable for the largest vessels, but is subject to -dreadful storms owing to the tremendous gusts of wind which rush from -the Andes. - -The rivers of Buenos Ayres are innumerable, but the largest and the -most noted is the RIO DE LA PLATA, which may be termed the great -channel by which the south-eastern part of America is drained. This -noble stream is the conjunct flood of the _Paraguay_, the _Pilcomayo_, -the _Parana_, the _Uruguay_, and a multitude of minor rivers which rise -either in the Andes or the mountains of Brazil. - -It was first discovered by Juan de Salis in 1515, who sailed up as -far as an island in 34 deg. 40' south latitude. The distance from the -confluence of the Parana and Paraguay to the mouth of the La Plata -is 600 miles; but if the length of any of the three great streams -is added, the La Plata will not yield in magnitude of course to the -Amazons or to the Orinoco. - -The _Paraguay_ is generally supposed to be the original river; this -stream rises in 13 deg. south latitude in the mountains, forty leagues -north of the Portuguese town of Cuyaba, and on the opposite side of the -chain in which rises the Arinos, a broad navigable river flowing into -the Maranon. The sources of the Paraguay are very numerous, forming, -soon after their issue, large rivers, and successively joining into -one stream, under the name of the Paraguay. In 16 deg. 24' south latitude, -seven leagues from Villa Bella, the _Jauru_ flows into this river, and -is noted as being the point where a fine marble pyramid is erected, -which was brought from Lisbon, and denotes, by several inscriptions, -that this place is the boundary of Brazil and Spanish America. From its -sources to this point the Paraguay has a navigation interrupted only by -one fall; and the lofty chain of mountains in which this river rises, -are terminated seven leagues below the pyramid, in south latitude 16 deg. -43' by a point called Morro Excalvado. East of this cape all is marsh; -nine leagues further south, the _Rio Nuevo_ joins the Paraguay; this -river was only discovered in 1786. In 17 deg. 33' the west or Spanish -banks of the great river again become mountainous, and three leagues -to the south of his parallel there is a deep break in the chain which -forms the mouth of lake _Gaiba_, which is connected with another named -_Uberava_; six leagues and a half below the mouth of the Gaiba, and -opposite the mountain bank the St. _Lourenco_ or Porrudos enters the -Paraguay from Brazil. This river receives several very large ones, -such as the Cuyaba, the Paraiba, the Jaquari, and the Itaquiri. The -_Itaquiri_ rises near the great Parana in Brazil, and allowing only for -a short portage, canoes actually circumnavigate the country included -between the Parana and the Paraguay. - -The mountains continue on the western banks under different names; on -the eastern bank the river receives the _Taquari_ by many estuaries, -the largest of which is in 19 deg. 15' south latitude, and 54 degrees -west longitude. Five leagues lower, and on the same side, the -_Embotetieu_ or _Mondego_, flows into the Paraguay, one league below -the mouth of which two high capes front each other, and here, at the -foot of the mountain, on the west, is _Fort Nueva Coimbra_, the last -and southernmost Portuguese settlement on the Paraguay, which, after -bounding the possessions of the two nations from the pyramid of Jaura, -becomes wholly a Spanish river, after passing _Bahia Negra_, a large -inlet eleven leagues south of Coimbra. - -Thence the river continues to south latitude 21 deg., where, on the west -bank, on a hill named Miguel Josef, the Spaniards have a station with -four pieces of cannon, named _Fort Bourbon_, and previous to reaching -this fort, the little river _Guirino_ flows into it from the east. -In south latitude 21 deg. 22' the river forms two channels by passing an -island, and the banks are here high on both sides, the interior being -very mountainous. At this point the great inundations of the river -which commenced at the mouth of the Jaura, and have received the name -of _Lake Los Xarayes_ terminate. - -During the rainy season, the channel of the Paraguay is here confounded -with those of its tributary streams, in such a manner that it is -difficult to find. The banks of the river continue high; and in 22 deg. 5' -south latitude, it receives a large river from the west, and twenty -leagues south of this, the _Corientes_ joins its streams. - -The _Xexuy_ flows into it from the east in 24 deg. 11'; from thence -the Paraguay runs southwards for thirty-two leagues to the city of -Asuncion, the capital of Paraguay. - -Six leagues below Asuncion, the first mouth of the great _Pilcomayo_ -joins the main river, its second mouth being fourteen or sixteen -leagues lower. In the intermediate space on the eastern side several -small rivers join, and on one of them, the _Tibiquari_, at 20 leagues -south-east of Asuncion is Villa Rica, a fine Spanish town. The _Rio -Vermelho_ enters the west bank of the Paraguay in 26 deg. 50' on which, -in the interior, is the town of Salto. The stream of the Paraguay, -being now augmented by the Pilcomayo, proceeds with increased rapidity -and volume to 27 deg. 25', where the immense body of waters, (much larger -than itself) of the _Parana_ join it, and their united streams take -the name of the _Rio de la Plata_, and continue their course by an -immense channel to the south, forming several islands, and receiving -many noble streams, till it has passed the thirty-fourth degree of -south latitude, when it begins to take an easterly course, and after -receiving the great _Uruguay_ or _River of the Missions_ above Buenos -Ayres, it flows with a steady and majestic course, and by an immense -estuary into the Atlantic ocean. The cape Santa Maria on the north, -and St. Antonio on the south side of its mouth are 180 miles distant -from each other, in 35 deg. 30' south latitude; but the navigation of this -fine river is interrupted by banks, rocks and islands, and is rendered -dangerous by violent winds, which, sweeping with great velocity over -the plains, cause perfect hurricanes in the La Plata. It is even said -that the storms are more frequent than at sea, and it requires very -little nautical knowledge to know that they must be infinitely more -dangerous than on that element. The water of the ocean is fresh at a -great distance from the La Plata, owing to the rapidity with which that -river discharges itself. - -The other noted streams and features of Buenos Ayres will be noticed in -the description of the different provinces. - - -COMMERCE AND RESOURCES. - -Since the attachment of several of the Peruvian provinces to this -government, the commerce and resources of the country are greatly -enlarged and altered. From being merely an agricultural state, it -has now become possessed of some of the richest mines in America. -The districts which supply the most considerable quantities of the -precious metal are Potosi, Changata, Porco, Oruro, Chucuito, La Paz and -Carangas, and the mountains of Anauca, near Carabaya, and Asangara, -north-east of lake Titicaca, were celebrated in the first years of the -conquest for their gold mines. - -The annual produce of the mines of Buenos Ayres is estimated at -882,000_l._, including those of Caylloma in Arequipa, which are said -to be attached to the government of La Plata. This produce is nearly -all silver. The quantity that has annually paid the fifth being in -fine gold 2200 marcs, and in fine silver 414,000 marcs, or 4,212,400 -piastres. Its contraband trade in these metals has also been estimated -at 67,000 marcs, most of which passes to Europe by the Rio de la Plata, -while in Peru, by the Amazons and the South Sea, the same unlawful -trade carries away 100,000 marcs. - -The trade of Buenos Ayres consists in these metals, and in exports of -salt beef, tallow, fine furs, sea wolf-skins, wool, sheep-skins, flour, -oil, copper, hides, &c.; to the interior provinces of Peru it sends -Paraguay tea, swan skins, negro slaves, thread, &c., in exchange for -sugar, cacao, cinnamon, rice, indigo, cotton, oil, pimento, wax, baize, -woollen goods, quicksilver, &c. - -From Europe La Plata receives linens, woollens, silks, cottons, hats, -iron, &c., and the imports may be estimated, in average years, at -758,400_l._, whilst its exports amount, in agricultural produce, to -434,000_l._, and in gold and silver to 1,183,400_l._, thus forming a -total of 1,617,400_l._ sterling. It formerly remitted 700,000 piastres, -at 4_s._ 4_d._ each, to the royal coffers: but since the late struggle -its expences have been so great in maintaining the insurgent cause, -that it can hardly defray them; especially since the viceroy of Peru -has taken possession of the richest mines for the king. - -_Capital._--The capital of this viceroyalty is the city of BUENOS -AYRES, containing a population of sixty thousand souls, or, according -to Estalla, of forty thousand, of whom the greater part are creoles. -This city is situated in 34 deg. 35' south latitude and 57 deg. 24' west -longitude, on the south side of the Rio de la Plata, adjoining to a -small river, from which the plain it is built on, gently ascends. It -was founded in 1535 by Don Pedro de Mendoza, who gave it the name of -Buenos Ayres, on account of its fine climate, but was abandoned soon -after, and not rebuilt until 1582, after which it speedily increased -and was erected into a bishopric in 1620, and into the capital in -1776. Buenos Ayres is well fortified, and its streets are straight, -handsome, and clean, being paved on each side. The principal square is -very large, and contains the residence of the governor, and the houses -are built of brick or chalk, consisting generally of two stories, with -a tiled roof. The cathedral is a spacious and elegant structure, and -there is a church appropriated for the Indians, with several convents, -chapels, &c. - -The distance from Cape Santa Maria, the entrance of the La Plata, to -Buenos Ayres, is 200 miles: but the navigation is very dangerous, owing -to rocks and shallows. In consequence of these dangers, large vessels -generally come to an anchor every night in sailing up, and on the most -moderate days it is necessary to be very vigilant, owing to the sudden -effects of the blasts from the plains. After arriving within three -leagues of the city, the cargoes are put into light vessels, and the -ships go to the bay of Barragan, about twenty-four miles below, to -refit and wait for freights. - -The principal streets of this town are the Calle de la Santa Trinidada, -and the Calle de San Benito. The former runs almost the whole length of -the city, and is occupied by the richer classes, who have also splendid -villas in the country; almost every house has a garden both before and -behind, and many have balconies latticed for odoriferous shrubs and -flowers. The interior of the houses display great wealth, but not much -cleanliness; and in summer they cover their floors with fine Indian -matting, and in winter with carpets. - -The gardens are watered by small canals, and there is generally a large -basin or reservoir in each, from which water is conducted by pipes -into the houses. That part of the city inhabited by the negroes and -castes has a very mean appearance, and, being very dirty, presents a -great contrast to the external show of the other parts. The churches -are covered with cupolas and steeples, which give them a handsome -look, and the town-hall is a fine building in the great square; the -convents, nunneries, the hospital for men, that for women, and those -for foundlings and orphans, being edifices of stone, of a beautiful -whiteness, which is quarried in the plains near the city. - -Buenos Ayres is well supplied with provisions, particularly with fish -and flesh; there is no place in the world where butcher's meat is -better, more plentiful, or cheaper; and it is frequently distributed -to the poor, as the merchants often buy the animal for the sake of the -hide alone. Poultry is dear, a couple of fowls costing as much as an -ox. Buenos Ayres was taken by the British in 1806, but retaken after -six weeks by the inhabitants; the subsequent events have been already -noticed. Its port is the great outlet for all the produce of the -interior, and, in times of war, much of the produce of Peru and Chili -pass to Europe by it, as well as Vicuna wool from the Andes, copper -from Coquimbo, gold from Chili, silver from Potosi, and from Paraguay, -the finest tobacco, sugars, cotton, yellow wax and threads. The -commerce carried on with Peru is chiefly returned in mules and cattle, -with matte, or Paraguay tea. Goods are conveyed in covered waggons over -the vast plains to Mendoza in one month; from this place they cross the -ridges of the Andes on mules to Santiago, a distance of eighty leagues; -and thence in carts to Valparaiso, a distance of thirty leagues, which -occupies fifteen days more. - -The climate of the city of Buenos Ayres is hot during the summer -season, and during the winter so much cold is felt that water generally -freezes slightly: but if this happens often the season is reckoned very -severe. The north and east winds are the most common; a north-east -wind always brings heat, and a south-east cold; and these winds are -generally violent, and when the westerly winds begin they blow with -extreme force, and are known by the name of Pamperos, from their having -their origin in the great _Pampas_ or plains. The atmosphere is very -moist, and those rooms which have a southern aspect are always damp, as -the walls to the south are covered with moss, and the roofs with long -bushy grass, which grows nearly three feet high, and which requires -to be cleared away occasionally to prevent its injuring the houses. -During summer rains are common, and are often accompanied with dreadful -thunder and lightnings. In the year 1793, the electric fluid struck the -city of Buenos Ayres in thirty-seven different places by which nineteen -persons were killed. - -This city is a bishop's see, suffragan of the archbishop of Charcas. - -A court of royal audience for the eastern provinces of Buenos Ayres -was erected here soon after the establishment of the viceregal form of -government, but at present is superseded by other regulations which the -independent government have adopted. - - -_GOVERNMENT OF LOS CHARCAS, OR POTOSI._ - -This government is one of the recent acquisitions of Buenos Ayres, and -in point of mineral produce is the most valuable of its territories. It -is bounded on the north by the chain or Cordillera of Vilcanota, which -separates it from the Peruvian provinces, and by countries inhabited -by wandering tribes; on the east it has the mountains of Arequipa, the -Pacific ocean and the Chilian Andes; on the west the governments of -Paraguay and Buenos Ayres; and on the south that of Buenos Ayres. - -Its most noted districts are Lampa, Carabaya, Ansangaro, Chucuito, -Paucar-Colla, Pacajes, Omasuyos, Larecaja, La Paz, Sicasica, Oruro, -Paria, Carangas, Porco, Chayanta, Charcas Proper, Pilaya, Cochabamba, -Pomabamba, Tomina, Atacama, Lipes, Amparaes, Apolabamba, Santa Cruz de -la Sierra, Tarija, Chiquitos, Moxos and Chacos, the last three being -countries inhabited by independent tribes, among whom there are a few -missionaries and settlements. - -This immense tract is covered with deserts, forests, vast plains -and rivers, and its most populous parts are those which are called -Provincias de la Sierra, and which lie on or near the Andes. The Inca -Capac Yupanqui subjected these provinces to his sceptre; his son Inca -Roca continued the conquests of his father, and greatly extended the -dominions of Peru on the east, till he became master of all the nations -as far as the place where the city of La Plata was afterwards built. - -After the conquest of the western parts of Peru by the Spaniards, they -turned their attention towards reducing the remote tribes. In 1538 -Gonzalo Pizarro marched at the head of a body of troops from Cuzco, -and advancing to Charcas, was opposed with such spirit by the natives, -that it was not till after great efforts that they were subdued; this -was the commencement of the Spanish colonization of La Plata; and the -different conquests, and the descriptions of the numerous districts of -this government will be treated of in describing their chief towns. - -The capital of Charcas is _Chuquisaca_, or _La Plata_, in 19 deg. 40' -south latitude, and 66 deg. 46' west longitude, in a small plain -surrounded with mountains. In summer the temperature of the air is very -mild, nor is there any very great difference throughout the year; but -in winter, which commences in September and lasts till March, rains -are very frequent, and are accompanied with thunder and lightning. - -This town was erected into a bishopric in 1551, and in 1608 was raised -to the metropolitan dignity. It was founded by Pedro Anzures, in -1539, by order of Gonzalo Pizarro, on the scite of the Indian town of -Chuquisaca; which name it now generally bears, it having received its -other appellation of La Plata, in consequence of the number of silver -mines in its vicinity. - -The houses are generally two stories high, and covered with tiles; -they are large, convenient, and have beautiful gardens, in which grow -all sorts of European fruits. The cathedral is also large and well -ornamented, and there is a parish church appropriated solely for the -Indians, who live in the suburbs, and amount to about 3000. - -Besides these there are five convents, each of which has a handsome -church, two nunneries, an university, and two colleges. - -The greatest evil attending the situation of this city is the want -of water, which is only scantily supplied by the public fountains, -dispersed in different places. - -Chuquisaca is famous as being the seat of the Royal Audience of Los -Charcas, which is the supreme court of Buenos Ayres, and has the -viceroy for its president; it was erected in 1559. - -The magistracy of this city are chosen from among the first nobility, -and consist of a corregidor, regidores, and alcaldes, who govern the -district attached to the town, which includes a very large space around -it, and contains, amongst others, the celebrated city and mines of -Potosi. - -The inhabitants of La Plata are computed at 14,000. - -In the district surrounding the capital, and which is called CHARCAS, -are several rivers, which form from their united streams the Pilcomayo. -The names of these rivers are the _Tarapaya_, that runs from _Porco_; -the _Potosi_, which is employed in washing the ores in the mines of -that name; and the _Cachimayo_, which passes near La Plata; after the -junction of this last, the united stream flows through the districts -of Pilaya, Paspaya, and Tomina, from whence it enters Chaco, and runs -80 leagues as far as the Llanos de Manso, after which its channel is -through thick forests to the south-east, and it enters the Paraguay, -south of the city of Asuncion, in between 25 deg. 40' and 26 deg. 20' -south latitude, by two mouths, after a course of 600 miles. Its banks are -inhabited by independent nations, who are so warlike, that the Jesuits -in vain sought for a passage by this stream, from Peru to Paraguay. - -The city of _Potosi_, included in this jurisdiction, is in 19 deg. 47' -south latitude, and 67 deg. 22' west longitude, east-south-east of Lima -in Peru, in a country inclosed by the mountainous district of Porco; -the climate is cold, and the environs very barren, the valleys being -destitute of wood, the sides of the hills covered only with moss, and -their summits capped with eternal snows. A few vicunas are now and then -seen grazing in this elevated and desolate region, which would never -have been frequented by man, had it not happened, that Diego Hualca, -an Indian peasant, was pursuing some wild goats, and arriving at a -very steep place, laid hold of a small shrub to prevent himself from -falling, but the shrub being unable to support his weight, was torn up -by the roots, and disclosed to the astonished hunter, a rich mass of -silver, lumps of which adhered to the earth, that came away with the -plant. The Indian who lived at Porco, made use of this inexhaustible -fund of riches for a length of time, but his good fortune could not -remain long concealed, as his friend Guanca, observing a considerable -change in his manner of living, became anxious to investigate the -cause, and pressing Hualca constantly to know the reason, he at last -disclosed the mystery. They however kept their secret for some time, -till Hualca, refusing to show his friend the manner of purifying the -metal, the latter related the whole affair to Villaroel, his master, -who also resided at Porco. Villaroel accordingly proceeded to the vein, -on the 21st of April 1545, and procuring the necessary assistance, the -mine was immediately opened. - -The city of Potosi was founded in a narrow glen, on the river of the -same name, on the south side of the mountain which contains the mines, -in the year 1547. A royal mint was established in 1562, and so rapidly -did its population increase, that in 1611, the town contained 160,000 -inhabitants, but from various causes, the population of this city -since that time has continually decreased, and at present it consists -only of about 30,000 souls. Potosi has a mint, six convents, two -nunneries, a college and an hospital; and its inhabitants are still -chiefly concerned in the working of the mines, and consist of whites, -mestizoes, and Indians, for the latter of whom there are six curates -and chapels in the city and its district. The city of Potosi is 45 -miles west-south-west of La Plata. - -The celebrated mines of Potosi are in the same mountain on which the -city is built. This mountain is three miles in circumference, and is -of a sharp conical figure, rising to the height of 4360 feet above -the plain, and is known by the name of _Hatun Potocsi_; its summit is -crowned by a bed of porphyry, which gives it the well defined conical -form it possesses. This famous mine has caused the destruction of -thousands of human beings, for in the latter end of the 16th century, -15,000 Indians were constantly forced to work in it; but at present, -there are not more than 2000 miners, who are well paid, and usually -work from choice alone; 15,000 llamas and 15,000 asses, are constantly -employed in carrying the ore to the amalgamation works in the city. The -mint of Potosi coined in 1790, 299,246 piastres of gold, and 3,293,173 -of silver, or 886,620_l._ sterling. From the discovery of these mines, -till the year 1803, they have supplied 1,095,500,000 piastres, or -237,358,334_l._ sterling, which has paid the royal duties; and this -also only includes silver, consequently the gold and smuggled metals -must have swelled the total furnished by the works to a much greater -amount. At present, the minerals are poor, and their abundance only -causes the Spaniards to work them; but according to Helms, if they -were properly managed, they would still produce from twenty to thirty -millions of dollars yearly. The mountain is perforated by about 300 -rude shafts; and the numerous furnaces which surround it, form at night -a very singular spectacle. Potosi is distant from its metropolis, -Buenos Ayres, 1873 miles across a road, which for 400 miles, lies over -a rocky mountainous country, very difficult to pass. - -The annual produce of this mountain at present, is not more than five -or 600,000 marcs of silver (each marc being two-thirds of a pound). -The richest shafts or workings are in the north-side of the mountain, -and are named, _La Descubridora_, _Del Estano_, _La Rica_, and _La -Mendieta_, their direction running south. - -Other causes occasionally conspire to render the vicinity of these -mines more populous than the mere riches they contain; as some hot -medicinal baths are found here, called Don Diego, to which many people -from the neighbouring towns resort; there is also a great concourse of -peasants and merchants to the city, to supply it with provisions, &c., -with which articles the district around it is totally unprovided. - -The district of TOMINA begins about eighteen leagues south-east of -La Plata, and borders eastward on the _Chiriguanos_, a nation of -independent Indians; it is twenty-four leagues in length from north to -south, and seventy in circumference, containing a mountainous country, -in the valleys of which there are some sugar plantations, and in its -higher parts, it feeds large and small cattle and horses. The climate -is in general hot, and in some of the valleys excessively so. - -The rivers which water Tomina are small and unite into one stream, -named _El Dorado_, and it is separated from Santa Cruz de la Sierra, by -the _Rio Grande_, which joins the Mamore. There are some small lakes -in this province, two of which are in a district, named Mayocaya. - -In this province, the inhabitants who are mostly Indians, amount to -12,000, and the town of the same name, is fifty-five miles east of La -Plata, in 19 deg. 10' south latitude, and 65 deg. 46' west longitude, -but is inconsiderable; the vicinity of the warlike Indians, rendering the -province an insecure place of abode. - -The town of _Porco_ or _Talavera de la Puna_, in 19 deg. 40' south -latitude, and 67 deg. 56' west longitude, is the capital of the province -of PORCO, which commences on the west side of the town of Potosi, and -extends twenty leagues. - -The coldness of its situation, amid the high ridges of the Andes, -occasions a scarcity of fruits and grain; but it abounds with fine -cattle, and the mountain of Porco in this province is celebrated, as -having been the place from whence the Incas of Peru drew the greater -part of their silver, and was the first mine worked by the Spaniards -after the conquest; the district still producing great quantities of -that metal, particularly at _Tomahave_, and the mines of the Porco -mountain, which are twenty-three leagues from Chuquisaca. - -The inhabitants amount to 22,000. - -Thirty leagues south of La Plata, lies the province of CHICHAS Y -TARIJA; it is a very fertile territory, and produces wheat, maize, -oil, wine and fruits; it also contains excellent pastures, abounds in -cattle, and has several gold and silver mines. The river _Tipuanis_, -which flows on its eastern side, carries much gold in its sand, which -the natives employ themselves in collecting. - -The greatest extent of this province is thirty-five leagues, and the -eastern parts are only separated from the independent tribes, by the -above mentioned river. Its chief town is _San Bernardo de Tarija_, -which was founded by Don Francisco de Toledo, to repel the incursions -of the warlike Indians, and to defend the high road to Tucuman, in -1591. It has four convents and a college, formerly belonging to the -Jesuits; in one of its convents, a cross is adored, which it is -pretended, was found by the conquerors of Peru in a cave in this -country; and that it was made by one of the Apostles, who had preached -the Gospel to the Peruvians. - -Joining Tarija, and on the south-west, is the province of LIPES which -extends 35 leagues. - -Its capital of the same name is 150 miles south-south-west of Potosi, -in 21 deg. 40' south latitude, and 68 deg. 16' west longitude. - -The climate of this country is excessively cold, and its chief commerce -consists in the produce of its mines, of which it possesses two of -gold, one of silver, and one of copper. - -The silver mine of _St. Christoval de Acochala_ was formerly the most -valuable in Peru, but at present is not worked owing to the want of -hands. Lipes abounds in cattle, and with vicunas, alpacas and llamas, -the high chain of the Andes pervading this province. - -AMPARAES or YAMPARAES is a district to the east of La Plata, and -bounds the province of Santa Cruz de la Sierra. Its productions are -chiefly grain in its warm plains, and cattle on its high lands and cold -districts. - -ORURO, or _San Felipe de Oruro_, is a city thirty leagues north-west of -La Plata, and capital of a jurisdiction or province of the same name. -The greater part of this country lying on the Andes is exceedingly -cold and barren, producing only herbage for the pasture of cattle and -sheep, with numerous herds of Peruvian camels. It contains many gold -and silver mines which were formerly very famous, but most of them -have been abandoned, though the mountains of _Popo_ still yield much -silver. The capital has five convents, and four churches, and is a -populous place, with a revenue office for collecting the duties on the -metals. - -PILAYA Y PASPAYA, or CINTI, is a province lying forty leagues south -of La Plata and bounded on the north by Tomina and Pomabamba, on the -east by the Chiriguanos Indians, and on the west and south by Porco -and Chichas. Its length is about thirty leagues and its width forty, -and this province is intersected in all directions, by the Cordillera, -among whose breaches and valleys its inhabitants are settled. They -are dispersed in different estates, and amount to 12,000. The climate -in the valleys is moderately hot, and the soil very productive. The -grapes of this district are made into wine and brandies, which are much -esteemed in the neighbouring provinces, and the river _San Juan_ which -rises in Lipes, pervades this country. The _Toropalca_ and the _Cinti_ -also fertilise the valleys through which they run, and the _Supas_ and -_Agchilla_ form, by their united streams, the _Paspaya_ which divides -the province from Pomabamba, and runs into the Pilcomayo. - -The towns of Pilaya and Paspaya were destroyed by the incursions of the -Indians from the east, so that the corregidor resides on an estate in -the fertile valley of Cinti; but there are some abundant lead mines in -the settlement of Pototaca. - -The province of CHAYANTAS begins fifty leagues north-west of La Plata, -extending for about forty leagues. This district is famous for its -silver mines, of which it contains three, with one of copper, one of -tin, and two of lead; and the _Rio Grande_ which flows through it -deposits auriferous particles in its bed. The cattle in this province -are barely sufficient to feed the inhabitants, who are not numerous. - -Adjoining to Chayantas is the province of PARIA, which is bounded by -that of Pacajes on the north, on the north-east, by Oruro, east and -south-east by Porco, south-west by Lipes, and west by Caranjas. It -contains several silver mines, and, lying among the mountains, is of a -cold temperature. - -There are also some salt mines in it, and a small lake from which that -article is extracted. - -A rapid river rising in lake Chucuito, runs through this province, and -is called the _Desaguadero_, or drain, forming a lake four leagues long -and two wide. The river ends in this basin, which has given rise to -various conjectures concerning the manner in which the water finds a -vent, as the lake is always of the same level; but in one part of it is -a whirlpool which sucks down any rafts that get within its vortex. In -the year 1748 this singular lake rose to a great height. - -The inhabitants of Paria amount to 10,000, and employ themselves in -farming; and the cheeses of this district are much sought after. - -Its capital of the same name is 210 miles north-west of La Plata, in -18 deg. 50' south latitude, and 68 deg. 20' west longitude. - -The province of CARANJAS commences 70 leagues west of La Plata, and -extends above 50 leagues on the west bank of Lake Paria. The Andes -pervading this district, the climate is very cold, and it produces no -grain, but has abundant pastures for cattle, vicunas, &c. There are -also many silver mines, two of which are very productive, and one of -copper is worked. - -A singular silver ore is found in the mines of Turco, which consists -of beautiful fibres, penetrating the mass of stone in which they are -contained. In the sandy desert parts of Caranjas that extend towards -the Pacific are discovered lumps of native silver, which are called -Papas, or potatoes, because they are dug out of the ground like that -root. - -These lumps have the appearance of melted silver, and many of them -have been found weighing as much as 150 marcs, and more than a foot -in length. The capital of this province, which is not populous, is a -small town of the same name, on a rivulet which flows into the southern -extremity of Lake Paria. - -The city of _Oropesa_ is the capital of a province named COCHABAMBA, -of about 40 leagues in extent, which is bounded by Sicasica on the -north-west, La Paz on the west, Chayantas on the south, and Charcas, -or La Plata, and Santa Cruz de la Sierra on the east, and lying 50 -leagues south-east of Plata. It possesses one gold mine, and several of -silver, but they are not productive. The chief wealth of this province -is in its agricultural produce, as it is fertilized by so many rivers -and streams, that it yields immense harvests of grain, &c. From this -circumstance it has obtained the appellation of the granary of Peru. -The climate is in general mild and healthful. - -The _Rio Grande_ is its principal river, which rises in the Andes, west -of the district of Sicasica. - -_Oropesa_, the capital, is a very considerable place; it is seated -on a small river, which is one of the streams of the Rio Grande, -in a beautiful and fertile valley; and the chief occupation of its -inhabitants, consists in supplying the neighbouring provinces with -fruits and grain. It is 150 miles north-west of La Plata, in 18 deg. 15' -south latitude, and 67 deg. 6' west longitude. - -The province of SICASICA is a very extensive tract, of nearly a hundred -leagues in length, and contains some silver mines, two of which are -worked. The far greater part of this district lies among the mountains, -and it has Cochabamba to its west, Oruro to the south, Paria to the -east, and La Paz to the north. Those parts which consist of plains -or valleys, are extremely hot, and produce great quantities of coca -or betel, with which the neighbouring provinces are supplied. The -mountains feed large herds of cattle, and flocks of vicunas, guanucos, -&c.; and, the capital is _Sicasica_, 40 miles north-north-west of -Oruro. - -POMABAMBA is a province bounded on the north by Tomina; east by the -lands of the independent tribes; west by Porco and Amparaes, and south -by Pilaya y Paspaya. It is about 24 leagues in length, and has no -other town than its capital, the inhabitants being dispersed in their -plantations. - -Its population is only 3000 souls, who gain a scanty subsistence from -their farms, which are often plundered by the Chiriguanos Indians. It -has the river _Parapeti_ on the north, and the _Rio Nuevo_ on the east, -which separates it from the Indian territories. - -The capital of the same name is on the shore of the Parapeti, in 19 deg. -55' south latitude, and 64 deg. 8' west longitude, nine miles east of La -Plata. - -The province of La PAZ lies north of Sicasica, and consists only of a -small district round the city of the same name, in the vicinity of the -western Cordillera of the Andes. The produce of this country is barley, -coca or betel, and papas. It is chiefly noted for the city of _La Paz_, -or _Chuquiavo_, or _Pueblo Nuevo_, which was first founded by Mayta -Capac, the fourth Inca, who subdued this country; but the Spaniards -thinking this an advantageous place, as a post between Arequipa and La -Plata, built the city under the presidency of Pedro de la Gasca, who -ordered Alonzo de Mendoza to place it midway between Cuzco and Charcas, -and to call it _Neustra Senora de la Paz_, in memory of the public -tranquillity being settled by the defeat of Gonzalo Pizarro and his -adherents. Accordingly a valley in the country, called Las Pacasas, was -pitched upon, in which the city was begun, on the 8th of October 1548, -the place abounding in cattle, grain, &c. - -This city is in 17 deg. 15' south latitude, and 68 deg. 25' west -longitude, and 120 miles east-south-east of Arequipa; 288 south-east of -Cuzco; 612 south-east of Lima; and 234 west of Santa Cruz de la Sierra, -on a fine river, which flows through the valley. - -The adjacent Cordillera, which is only 12 leagues distant, is very -high, and one of its summits, called _Illimani_, is covered with -perpetual snow, which exposes the district to so cold a climate, that -hard frosts, storms of hail, &c., are not uncommon. But the city is not -subject to these, enjoying a salubrious air, and considerable heat. - -The unequal ground on which La Paz is seated, the snow-clad mountains, -the fertile valleys and the fine river give peculiar charms to its -scenery. The inhabitants in the district around the city are mostly -confined to the valley, as the higher grounds are covered with forests -which afford shelter to bears, jaguars, pumas, &c. - -They find some gold in the river, when it is increased by the melting -of the snow, which forces large masses of rock from the mountain of -Illimani. In 1730, an Indian discovered in this stream a lump of gold -of such size, that it was bought for 12,000 piastres, and sent to the -king. - -La Paz has a fine cathedral and four churches, four convents, a -college, three nunneries, and an hospital, and contains 20,000 -inhabitants, who are chiefly engaged in trading in Paraguay tea. A late -traveller represents it to be an elegant and clean place. - -It is a bishop's see, whose revenues are very considerable. - -This city had formerly the five following provinces or districts under -its jurisdiction, and its bishop still holds ecclesiastical sway over -them; _viz._ Omasuyos, Pacages, Laricaxas, Chucuito and Paucarcolla. - -The district of OMASUYOS begins at the gates of La Paz, and extends -20 leagues, being bounded on the west by lake Chucuito or Titicaca. -Its climate is very cold, so that it produces little corn; but its -pastures feed a great number of cattle; and it has four gold mines. It -is chiefly inhabited by Indians. Near the borders of this province is -the town or village of _Tiahanuaco_, in which are colossal pyramids and -gigantic figures cut out of stone; and these, though much injured by -the weather, are highly singular, and are conjectured to have existed -before the times of the Peruvian Incas. This place is thirty-six miles -north-west of La Paz, in south latitude 17 deg. 17' and very near the -south-east coast of lake Titicaca. - -Unfortunately no traveller has given a detailed account of these -images, which are supposed to be the most ancient and singular in -America. - -PACAJES is bounded on the north by Chucuito and the great lake; -north-east, by Omasuyos; east, by La Paz and Sicasica; south, by Oruro, -Paria and Carangas, and south-west and west, by the Peruvian province -of Arica, which is separated from it by the lofty chain of the Andes. - -Its length from the bridge over the river Desaguadaro, which divides -it from Chucuito to the province of Paria, is fifty-six leagues, and -its greatest width forty. From the neighbourhood of the Andes, its -climate is cold, and its soil not very productive. Its inhabitants are -dispersed in small settlements, and consist chiefly of Indians, who are -employed in tending cattle and sheep, with which it abounds. - -There were formerly several mines of silver and emeralds, but they -are not worked at present. A mine of talc supplies the whole of Peru -with plates of that substance to serve instead of window glass for the -churches and houses. - -Including Tiahanuaco, there are fifteen settlements in Pacajes, which -has a capital of the same name, eighty miles south-west of La Paz, in -a variable climate, and whose chief commerce consists in the sale of -cattle to the neighbouring towns. - -LARICAXAS, north of La Paz, is a district which extends 240 miles from -east to west, and 75 from north to south; it bounds that of Carabaya -on the north, and most of its products are the same as those in that -province. It contains many gold mines, the metal found in which is of -a superior fineness, and four of these mines are in work. The mountain -of _Sunchuli_ in this province is celebrated as having been the -situation of a gold mine which was discovered in 1709, and was worked -with immense profit till 1756, when it was inundated by a spring which -suddenly burst in it, and all attempts to get the water under have -since proved in vain. - -CHUCUITO commences twenty leagues west of La Paz, and borders the -western shore of lake Titicaca. The extent of this province from -north to south is about twenty-eight leagues, its climate, from the -high mountains of which it is composed, is cold, and its chief trade -consists in the cattle which are pastured in its elevated plains. - -The Andes in this province contain many veins of silver, but none of -them are worked at present, and the great lake _Chucuito_ takes its -name from this district; it is supplied with water from ten or twelve -large rivers, and has no other outlet than by the Desaguadero, which -flows from it into lake Paria, and is there lost. It abounds with fish, -though its waters are bitter and brackish, and numbers of geese and -other wild fowl frequent its shores, which are covered with strong -flags or rushes of which the bridges in the country are constructed. - -It contains many islands, one of which, Titicaca, was formerly a -mountain, but was levelled by the Incas. This island gave the lake one -of its names, Titicaca signifying Leaden Mountain; and Manco Capac -having first appeared here, the succeeding Incas raised a temple of the -sun in memory of the event. - -This temple was one of the most splendid in the empire, and contained -the greatest riches, owing to the obligation which all the Peruvians -were under of visiting it, and depositing an offering on the shrine. -On the conquest of the country by the Spaniards it is said all these -riches, and even the walls of the temple itself, were thrown into the -lake. - -Towards the south part of the lake the banks approach each other, and -form a bay, which terminates in the Rio Desaguadero, or the Drain, and -over this river is a bridge of rushes, invented by Capac Yupanqui, the -fifth Inca, in order to transport his army across the stream, which -is between eighty and one hundred yards in breadth, flowing with an -impetuous under current, though its surface is smooth. The Inca caused -four large cables to be made of the long grass which grows on the high -Paramos or deserts of the Andes, two of these were stretched across the -stream, bundles of dry rushes or flags from the borders of the lake -were laid across them, and fastened together; on these the other two -cables were laid, and they were again covered with other bundles of -flags, smaller than the first and firmly fastened together in such a -manner as to form a level surface, and over this marched the Peruvian -army to the conquest of Charcas. - -This bridge, which is five yards broad, and one and a half above the -river, is repaired or rebuilt, as circumstances require, every six -months, in pursuance of a law made by the Incas, and followed up by the -Spanish government, on account of its great utility. - -The island Titicaca contains several settlements, and, among others, -that of _Copacavana_, celebrated for its sanctuary of Nuestra Senora -de Copacavana. The island produces fruits, flowers and vegetables, -pastures much cattle, and in its woods are found wild rabbits and -pigeons. - -The Indians navigate this lake on balsas or rafts, supported by -inflated skins, and carry on by this means a considerable commerce -with the towns on the banks. - -_Chucuito_, a small town on the banks of the lake, is the capital -of this province, which contains, as do the shores in general, many -settlements, villages and towns. - -PAUCARCOLLA, the last of the old provinces of La Paz, is bounded on the -north-east by the lake; east by the same and Chucuito; north by Lampa; -west by Moquehua in Peru; and south by Pacajes and Arica, also in Peru. -It is eighty-six leagues long, and twenty-eight broad, and is watered -by several streams flowing into the lake, of which the _Rio Suches_ and -the _Taraco_ are the largest. - -The climate is generally cold, and in the parts bordering on Lake -Titicaca are cultivated Peruvian bark, papas, barley, &c. The chief -occupation of the inhabitants consists in breeding cattle, sheep, pigs -and llamas, and there are many vicunas, deer, partridges and lake fowl, -which are caught or killed by the natives; the lake also supplies -fish, and by means of it the Indians carry dressed hides, thread, &c., -and take in exchange wines, brandies and other commodities from the -adjacent districts. They fabricate their clothing and other articles -from the wool of the Peruvian camel, and carry on a considerable -traffic in that article. - -The capital was formerly the present settlement of the same name, but -it was transferred to that of Huancane, till the discovery of the mines -of Laicacota, when that large village became the chief town; since that -time it has again changed, and is now seated at _Puna_, from whence the -whole province is sometimes called. - -_Cancharani_ and _San Josef_, two mountains in this district, contain -rich veins of silver, which have been worked with great effect; on the -north of these is the mountain _Del Azogue_, or of quicksilver, which -was formerly worked to such advantage that it exceeded the produce of -the celebrated mines at Guancavelica: but the government suspended the -operations at this place from some political motives. - -The furnaces in the mines of this province are supplied by the natives, -who breed cattle, with cow-dung, to serve as fuel, which is used -instead of wood, on account of the scarcity of that article, and proves -a good substitute. - -The inhabitants of this province amount to more than 26,000 souls, -dispersed in fifteen settlements and towns. - -_Paucarcolla_, the old capital, is situated on the banks of Lake -Titicaca, and inhabited by a few Spanish families. The Inca Yupanqui, -third emperor of Peru, added this place to his territories, the natives -submitting voluntarily. - -_Puna_, the present capital, stands on the shores of the lake in -16 deg. 20' south latitude, 70 deg. 26' west longitude, and is a rich and -populous place, containing many illustrious families, with a beautiful -church for the whites, and another for the Indians. The mines in the -neighbourhood of this town were among the richest in Peru, but were -abandoned on the death of their owner, who built the Spanish church. It -is, however, said, that the rich mines of _Salcedo_ or _Laycacota_ are -again in work. Puna is fourteen miles north-west of Chucuito. - -The remaining districts towards the Peruvian frontier, and which were -under the jurisdiction of the audience of Cuzco, until the formation of -the new kingdom of Buenos Ayres, are Asangaro, Carabaya and Lampa. - -ASANGARO or ASANGARO Y ASILA, is bounded on the north-east and east, by -Carabaya, south-east and south by Laricaxa, south-west by Paucarcolla -and lake Chucuito, and west and north-west by Lampa. It is sixty miles -in length and as many in breadth, containing about 3000 inhabitants. - -As it lies almost entirely on the Andes, which are here very high, -its climate is cold, and the soil produces little else than grass to -pasture the cattle, in which its trade consists. Papas, quinoas, and -canaguas, grow plentifully in its plains; of the two last, the natives -make an intoxicating liquor common in Peru, called chica, which is -nearly the same as the spirit procured in Mexico from maize; and chica -is also the principal beverage of the Indians inhabiting the Andes. - -The chief towns of the same name are mere villages, but near _Asila_ is -a lead mine, which has been very productively worked; and in the parts -of this province bordering on Carabaya, there are several silver mines, -three of which are worked. - -CARABAYA is bounded on the north by the Peruvian frontier, east by the -country of the independent Indians, and west and south by Asangara. The -extreme parts of this province are sixty leagues from Cuzco, and its -greatest extent is more than fifty leagues; but lying in a mountainous -region, its climate is generally cold, though some of its valleys enjoy -heat enough to mature the coca or betel; and it abounds in grain, -vegetables, and rich pastures, which feed numerous herds of cattle. -Carabaya contains silver and gold mines in great numbers, one of the -former and two of the latter being in work. - -The river which separates it from the Indian countries, contains much -gold in its sand; and the Indians of Peru are said to come down in -companies to this river, in order to collect sufficient metal to pay -the capitation tax. - -In the village of _Poto_ is an office for collecting the royal duties -on the mines, and the most famous lavaderos or washing places, are _San -Juan del Oro_, _Pablo Coya_, and _Monte de Anauca_, two leagues from -Poto. - -The greatest gold mine is that of Aporama; the metal being twenty-three -carats fine. - -_Carabaya_, or _San Juan del Oro_, is the capital of this province, -150 miles south-east of Cuzco, in 14 deg. 40' south latitude, and 69 -deg. 36' west longitude. - -LAMPA is bounded on the north and west by the Peruvian frontier, and -on the south and east by Chucuito and Asangaro. It lies on the ridge -named the Chain of Vilcanota, which separates Buenos Ayres from Peru; -and its climate, though generally cold, is healthy. It carries on a -considerable trade in cattle; and its silver mines are very numerous, -but only two are worked to advantage. - -The capital is a town of the same name, ninety miles south of Cuzco; in -the vicinity of which are the richest mines of the province. - -This town is in 14 deg. 55' south latitude, and 81 deg. 44' west -longitude. - -_Pucara_, a village in this province, is remarkable as containing -the ruins of a fort built by the Peruvians, having two large stone -reservoirs within it; some of the stones of which are three yards long -and two broad, and not far from this fort is a fountain of warm water. - -Having now described the northern and Andean districts or provinces of -Charcas or La Plata, we must turn to those which lie on the coast of -the Pacific, on the east, and those towards Paraguay on the west. - -The viceroyalty of Buenos Ayres enjoys the advantage of possessing a -province on the shores of the Great Southern Ocean, which, though at -present nearly desert, may one day become of great importance. This -province named ATACAMA, is bounded on the north by Arica in Peru, on -the west by the Pacific or South Sea, on the north-east by Lipes, -south-east by the government of Tucuman, and south by Copiapo, in the -kingdom of Chili. It is divided into High and Low Atacama, and is of -great extent, some parts of it being very fruitful, but intermixed -with deserts, particularly towards the south, where there is an -immense tract of untenanted land, which divides La Plata from Chili. -The sea-coast of this province, is noted for the numerous fisheries -established on it, and which supply a large fish, called Tolo, that -forms the chief food of the inland districts of La Plata during Lent. - -The inhabitants of Atacama are chiefly Indians, those who live in the -settlements, amounting only to 2500. - -Its chief town is _Atacama_, in a barren plain, surrounded by the lofty -summits of the Cordillera, which are uninhabited, owing to the intense -cold. This town is a small place, 100 miles from the South Sea, and -120 leagues from La Plata, in 23 deg. 30' south latitude, and 69 deg. -30' west longitude. - -Crossing towards the east from this western boundary of Buenos -Ayres, we find the provinces of Apolabamba, Santa Cruz de la Sierra, -Chiquitos, Moxos and Chacos. - -APOLABAMBA is bounded on the east by the province of Moxos, and on the -west by Carabaya, commencing about sixty leagues from Cuzco in Peru, -and extending eighty leagues from south-west to north-east. The country -is mountainous, and intersected with rocks and precipices, consequently -the roads are very rugged and difficult. - -The principal cultivation consists in rice, maize, plantains, &c., -which are the common food of the inhabitants. In the plains or -valleys, some cacao and cotton are raised, but more grows wild than in -plantations, and the forests are numerous and filled with wild beasts -and monkeys of every kind. The people carry their produce to La Paz, -where they procure what is necessary for their comforts. - -Apolabamba is a newly planted colony, and consists mostly of -settlements of Indians, who have been converted by the Franciscan -missionaries. Seven villages are in a flourishing condition, and in -order to defend these from the incursions of the surrounding tribes, -the inhabitants are formed into a militia, governed by a Spanish -officer. - -SANTA CRUZ DE LA SIERRA is a very large province including several -districts; it is, as its name indicates, a mountainous country, and -little inhabited by Spaniards, the chief places being the missions, -which were first planted by the Jesuits. It borders on, or rather -contains in its government, the countries of the Chiquitos, Guaranis, -and other tribes, among whom a few missions are settled. - -Its climate is warm, and the chief trade of its settlers consists in -honey and wax. - -The capital is _Santa Cruz de la Sierra_, eighty or ninety leagues east -from La Plata. It was originally built farther to the south near the -Cordillera of the Chiriguanos and was founded in 1548 by De Chaves; -but the city having been destroyed, it was rebuilt on its present -scite: it is however a place of little importance, though erected -into a bishopric in 1605, the chapter consisting only of the bishop, -dean, and archdeacon. The usual residence of the bishop is at _Mizque -Pocona_, which is the chief town of a large district of the same name. -This latter city, which is 100 miles south-south-west from Santa Cruz, -is a small place in a valley about eight leagues in circumference, -producing all kinds of grain and fruits, and in a warm climate; the -woods and mountains affording large quantities of honey and wax, which -constitutes a principal branch of the trade of the place. - -There is also a lake two leagues in extent near this town, and the -district of Mizque is the most populous part of the province. - -The _Rio Grande de La Plata_ is the finest river of Santa Cruz; it -rises in some small lakes on the south, and running through the -province into that of Moxos, enters the Piray by a broad mouth, and -forms a good port at Pailas, north of the capital. - -The province of CHIQUITOS lies to the north and east of Santa Cruz de -la Sierra, and embraces an immense extent of territory, which reaches -to the Brazilian frontier on the Paraguay. - -It was first colonized by the Jesuits who began their missionary -establishments in this country towards the close of the seventeenth -century, and their success was so great that in 1732 they had seven -settlements, each containing more than 600 families. The Indians who -inhabit Chiquitos are small-sized, active and brave, and have always -resisted the endeavours of the Portuguese to carry off members of their -community to slavery; many of them live peaceably in the missions, but -others lead a wandering life amid the mountains and plains of their -native land. - -The forests in this country produce the cinchona, or Jesuit's bark, -and many other useful substances; and the great inundation of the -Paraguay, called _Lake Xarayes_, extends through the western parts of -this province, which is also celebrated for containing the third great -branch of the Andes, that leaves the main body between 15 deg. and 20 deg. -of south latitude, and crossing the provinces of the Sierra sweeps round -Chiquitos, between 15 deg. and 23 deg., stretching from La Paz, Potosi and -Tucuman, through Moxos, Chiquitos and Chaco, towards the government -of the mines, and of St. Pablo in Brazil. The highest summits of this -chain appear to be between 15 deg. and 20 deg. of south latitude, giving -rise to many rivers which flow either into the La Plata or the Maranon. - -_San Josef de Chiquitos_, the chief settlement of this province, is -thirty-six miles north-west of Santa Cruz; and south of the Chiquitos -Indians, are another tribe, named the _Chiriguanos_, whom the -missionaries have in vain attempted to convert; they are the terror -of the western provinces of Buenos Ayres, and are continually at war -with the Chiquitos. In their country flows the river _Parapiti_, -which rising near Cochabamba in 18 deg. south latitude, is first called -_Conderillo_, and receiving smaller rivers, assumes the name of -_Parapiti_, and passing through a large lake it turns to the north; -having pursued hitherto a south-east course into this lake, which is -in 19 deg. 50' south latitude. It is now called _St. Miguel_, and still -running north assumes the name of _Sara_, and being joined by the -united streams of the Piray and Plata, as well as several others from -the province of Santa Cruz, it becomes a broad river, and in 14 deg. -south latitude, is called the _Mamore_, till 10 deg. south latitude, when -it leaves Peru or La Plata, and entering the Portuguese territories -becomes the _Madera_, continuing under that name to south latitude, 3 deg. -15', and 60 deg. 40' west longitude, when it discharges its immense stream -into the Maranon, after a course of 1400 miles. - -MOXOS or MOJOS is an extensive territory bounded by the Portuguese -government of Matto Grosso on the east, Cuzco and the Peruvian -provinces on the west, and Chiquitos and Santa Cruz on the south. It -extends on each side of the Mamore, and is chiefly inhabited by warlike -and wandering tribes of Indians, who forbid access to its interior. -This country contains the lake _Rogagualo_, a large body of water of an -oval figure, formed by an arm of the _Rio Beni_, which rises near La -Paz on the west side of the Andes, in 18 deg. south latitude, and flowing -north, enters the Ucayale, their united streams joining the Apurimac. -The banks of the Beni have many settlements of the missionaries. -This lake empties itself into the Mamore by a channel called _De la -Exaltacion_, thus forming an immense island of the country lying -between the Maranon on the north, the Madera and Mamore on the east, -and the Beni and Ucayale on the west. From lake Rogagualo three other -rivers take their rise and flow into the Amazons on the north; _viz._ -the _Jutay_, the _Juruay_ and the _Puros_. - -There are several missionary villages in the province of Moxos: but -the country is still under the power of the aborigines. - -CHACOS is another large territory, bounded by Chiquitos on the north; -Paraguay on the east; the great plains of Manos on the south; and -Tucuman and Tarija on the west. It is of immense extent, and chiefly -inhabited by tribes of wandering Indians, having on its east the great -chain of mountains on the banks of the Paraguay, and contains the great -_Rio Pilcomayo_, which flows into the Paraguay near Asuncion. - -The Jesuits made several attempts to colonise Chaco, but did not -succeed, and little is known concerning its products or features. - -The adjoining government to Los Charcas, which has now been described -as fully as the nature of the work would admit, is,-- - - -_THE GOVERNMENT OF PARAGUAY._ - -Paraguay is a very extensive government of Buenos Ayres, which is -bounded by Chiquitos, Chacos, and Tucuman on the north-west and west; -on the north it extends to Lake Xarayes; north-east and east it bounds -the Portuguese territories; and south-east and south it is limited by -the Parana, which separates it from the missions of Guayra in Buenos -Ayres, its jurisdiction ending in the south of the city of Asuncion, in -26 deg. 48' south latitude, and it is divided from Tucuman, or the Llanos -de Manso, by the river Paraguay. - - -HISTORY, DISCOVERY, &c. - -The history of this province commences with its discovery by Sebastian -Cabot, in 1526, who sailed up the Parana. This navigator was the son -of a Venetian pilot, who was much employed in England, and by some -accounts is said to have been born at Bristol, in 1477, and having -been brought up to the same profession, went with his father, John -Cabot, to the discovery of Newfoundland, and from thence to Florida. -They had the honour of being the first navigators who saw the continent -of America, Columbus not having discovered it till a year afterwards. -Sebastian, after this voyage, made another to Hispaniola and Puerto -Rico, in the service of Henry VII. of England, and reached the coast -of Brazil, but was hindered from exploring it by the timidity of his -coadjutor Sir Thomas Pert. - -Owing to some opposition on his return to England, he went to Spain, -and offered his service to the king; his request was graciously -attended to, and on account of his great skill, he was appointed -pilot-major of the kingdom, an office of great honour in those days. -In 1524, the Spanish merchants entered into a treaty with Cabot, to -command an expedition to the Moluccas, which was to pass through the -newly-discovered streights of Magalhaens. He undertook this voyage, -and proceeded to the coast of Brazil, coasting it southward from the -bay of Todos los Santos, till he arrived at the river La Plata, where -he landed three of his chief officers, who had mutinied, on a desert -island, and being unable, from want of provisions and the bad behaviour -of his crew, to proceed farther to the south, he sailed thirty leagues -up the river, and discovered an island, which he called _San Gabriel_; -three leagues higher up he saw a large river, and named it _San -Salvador_; here he landed his people, and built a fort, from which -advancing in his boats he discovered another river, thirty leagues -distant, called _Zarcacana_ by the natives, on the banks of which he -constructed another fort, and named it _Santi Spiritus_. - -He afterwards explored the river Parana, and sailing up it entered the -Paraguay, where he found the natives tilling the ground. These people -opposed his landing and in a skirmish with them he lost twenty-five -men who were killed and three who were taken prisoners. Cabot wintered, -however, in this country, and was joined by another adventurer, Jayme -Garcia, who had been sent from Europe to explore the river, and -returning together to the fort _Santi Spiritus_, they dispatched a -vessel with an account of their discoveries to Spain. - -So long were the ministry in sending the necessary supplies to Cabot, -that, tired of waiting, he returned to Spain, after an absence of five -years, in the year 1531: but not being well received at court, he -continued a few years in the Spanish service, and returned to England -in the latter end of the reign of Henry VIII. In the following reign he -was made grand pilot of England, with a pension of 166_l._ 13_s._ 4_d._ -per annum; a sum in those times equal to 1000_l._ at present. - -During the reign of Edward, and that of Philip and Mary, many -privileges were granted to Cabot; he was made governor of the Russian -company, and had the management of the expedition which sailed under -Sir Hugh Willoughby to the North Seas. - -The variation of the compass was first observed by this celebrated man, -though Ferdinand Columbus in the life of his father, printed at Venice, -in Italian, in 1571, asserts, that the admiral first noticed it on the -14th of September 1492. Cabot published a large map of his discoveries -in North America, which was hung up in the gallery at Whitehall. He -also wrote an account of his voyage in the North American seas, in -Italian, which was printed at Venice in 1583 in one volume folio; and -is very scarce. - -Juan de Ayolas followed up the discoveries of Cabot in Paraguay, having -had a commission, troops, and stores given him, in 1536, for that -purpose, by Don Pedro de Mendoza, the first governor of Buenos Ayres. - -By the orders of Ayolas, Juan de Salinas founded the city of Asuncion, -but the conquest of the natives being attended with much difficulty, -and Ayolas and his party having been murdered by them, Alvar Nunez -Cabeza de Vaca, the second governor of Buenos Ayres, undertook their -subjugation in person. He had arrived with 400 men to take the chief -command, in case of the death of Ayolas, and finding that this event -had happened, he collected all the settlers in Buenos Ayres, and -detaching Irala, who had acted as governor before his arrival, into -the interior, with ninety men, to report on the state of the country, -was so satisfied with what he had seen, that he set out with 200 -Spaniards, and 1200 Guarani Indians, and entered Paraguay; but meeting -with reverses, owing to the mutinous conduct of his troops, who were -corrupted by Irala, he was forced to return, when he was deposed and -sent to Spain; Irala then assumed the chief command, and by his conduct -soon reduced the natives, and rendered the Spanish settlements secure. - -The Indians were parcelled out to the conquerors, and in 1547, the city -of Asuncion was erected into a bishopric. - -Much cruelty was practised towards the unfortunate natives, till the -arrival of the first bishop of Paraguay, in 1554, who brought with him -laws and regulations for their protection; but however wise and humane -these ordinances were, they did not totally restrain the colonists -from ill using their vassals; and it being found that Paraguay and the -territories then discovered, were not sufficient to supply Indians -enough to work in the plantations, Parana or Guayra was conquered, -and the city of Ciudad Real being founded, 40,000 of the natives were -reduced to slavery; and in a few years after, the Spanish power was -extended over Chiquitos, on the left of Paraguay, where 60,000 of the -natives were compelled to labour for the profit of their employers. - -The year 1556 was a new era for the aborigines, as in that epoch the -Jesuits made their appearance in Paraguay, and taking a method directly -contrary to that of the conquerors, they reduced the natives by the -arts of persuasion alone. They showed them how industry would conduce -to their comfort; and having, by an uniform course of mildness and -conciliation, reclaimed them from their native woods and wandering way -of life, they settled them in towns and villages, which soon increased -and flourished under their guidance. - -The number of these settlements was astonishing, and so completely -had these priests gained the affections of the natives, that their -government and power was absolute and unlimited. The principal missions -of the Jesuits, or rather the Jesuit government, was not however in -Paraguay, but in Uruguay, an immense district of Buenos Ayres, on the -south of the Parana; and in describing that country, some further -account of their possessions will be given. - -Their order being expelled from the Spanish dominions, in 1767, -the countries they possessed in South America were divided into -governments, and priests of other orders were appointed to take charge -of the ecclesiastical affairs. - -_Climate, productions, features, &c._--The climate of Paraguay is in -general moist and temperate, though in some parts it is cold, and white -frosts are common in those places in July and August. - -The temperate parts abound with all kinds of grain, beans, pease, -melons, cucumbers, and European vegetables; asparagus is found wild, -and there is a remarkably fine sort of vine, of which good and healthy -wine is made, magueys, sugar-cane, maize, from which the Indians make -their favourite drink; potatoes, a fruit resembling the almond, which -produces an excellent oil; the European fruits; tobacco, and cinchona, -or Jesuit's bark, sarsaparilla, rhubarb, jalap, sassafras, guiacum, -dragon's blood, cupay, whose oil is used in medicine, nux vomica, -vanilla, cacao, the timbabi, supplying a fine yellow gum, which is run -into moulds, and formed into beads, necklaces, crosses, &c. Cedar, -the curi or pine, from whose red knots, which contain a varnish, the -Indians make images; the algarrobo, or carob tree, which is converted -into bread, and the Paraguay tea or matte, a plant which rises about a -foot and a half high, with slender branches, and leaves something like -those of senna; of this there are two kinds, one called Paraguay, the -other Caamina, or Yervacamini, which last sells for one-third more than -the other. - -So useful is this western tea, that the mines would stand still, if the -owners were to neglect to supply the workmen with it; and every person -in Peru, Chili, and Buenos Ayres, consider themselves wretched, if not -able to procure it; two millions of piastres worth of this herb, being -sold from the province of Paraguay every year. It is infused and made -nearly in the same way as Chinese tea, excepting that the branches are -put in with the leaves, and that it is drank out of the vessel it is -made in, through a silver or glass pipe, as soon as possible; as if it -stays too long, it is supposed not to be good. The smell, and colour of -this drink, is nearly as fine as that of the best Indian teas. - -The pomegranate, peach, fig, lemon and orange, flourish in Paraguay, -as do the cocoa-nut and other palms. The native fruits have among -them the jujuba, the chanar, the yacani, the quabira, from which -candles are made for the churches; the quembe yielding a delicious -pulp; the mammon growing on the trunk of a tree, and resembling a -melon; the tatay, having a fruit like the mulberry; the alaba, with a -delicious fruit; the anguay, whose pips are of a rich violet colour -and triangular shape, are used by the Indian women for necklaces; the -tarumay resembling the olive; the molle, yielding a fragrant gum; the -bacoba, banana, anana, manioc, the cotton tree, which grows to a great -size and is very common; the zevil, whose bark is used in tanning; the -ceibo, with flowers of a purple colour; the izapa, whose leaves distil -a copious supply of water; the ant-tree, which is the chosen resort -of these insects; the umbu, with an immense and spreading head; the -willow; the ambay, used in striking fire; the arucuy, a shrub yielding -a strong scarlet dye; indigo, cochineal, nacalic, whose beautiful -yellow is used by dyers and painters, and reeds of great size, besides -an infinite number of other trees and plants, all useful in their kind, -and an immense assemblage of beautiful flowers. - -The wild animals of Paraguay are chiefly found in the mountain regions -bordering on the Great River, and on Brazil, where the forests are of -impenetrable thickness. The jaguar, the puma or the cougar, and the -black bear, are large and very fierce, destroying the cattle whenever -they are exposed to their ravages. The ant-bear is a common animal, -feeding principally on ants, which it catches, by placing its long -tongue on their nests; and the tapir, the water-pig, or capibara, -the river-cavies, and various other amphibious animals, frequent its -numerous rivers. Mosquitos and other venomous insects are the great -plagues of this fine country, and about twenty kinds of serpents, of -which, the rattle-snake is the most common, and the boa constrictor the -largest, frequent its woods and plains. - -In Paraguay, the bird tribes are also very numerous, and possess -the charms of song and beauty of plumage, in a degree equal, if -not superior to those of any part of South America. Of these, nine -different kinds of the humming-bird alone have been enumerated. - -But the largest bird seen in the plains of Paraguay, is the great -cassowary or American ostrich, remarkable for its immense size, fine -plumage, and swift motion. - -The fertility of Paraguay is proverbial, and though no mines are worked -in it, it is one of the most opulent governments of Buenos Ayres, on -account of its various vegetable productions, and the immense herds of -horses, mules, cattle and sheep, which pasture on its extensive plains. - -Of this government, the southern parts are those which are best known -and most inhabited; the northern bordering on the Brazilian frontiers, -and reaching to the great inundation of the Paraguay, have been little -explored, and are tenanted only by the aborigines and wild animals. - -The great features of this country are the numerous rivers, swamps, -lakes, plains and woods, with which it abounds. Its largest and most -noted rivers being the _Paraguay_, the _Parana_, the _Porrudos_, -_Mbotely_, _Tobati_, _Ipane Piray_ in the north parts, and in the -south the _Canabe_ and _Tibiquari_, the latter of which, divides the -government from that of Buenos Ayres. - -_Commerce._--The trade of Paraguay consists in the export of its tea, -tobacco, sugar, cotton, hides, tallow, wax, honey, cattle, horses, -mules, wool, leather, &c. It is chiefly carried on by the river -Paraguay; the journey to Buenos Ayres by land, being seldom performed -excepting by couriers, who are then obliged to wade and swim over -many rivers, and are exposed to the attacks of the wandering Indians, -even the navigation of the Great River not being free from them; the -_Payaguas_ tribe often collecting sixty or seventy canoes, with five -or six men in each, armed with long lances and clubs, who attack any -vessel unprovided with the means of making resistance. - -Peace has been made with these people, but they sometimes commit -depredations, and the whole government is surrounded by nations -equally inveterate and ferocious; on the west are the _Tobas_ and -_Moscobies_, on the south the _Abipones_, on the north the _Guaycurus_ -or _Mbayas_, and the _Panaguas_; but the east is free from any -immediate neighbours of this description, though on the distant -mountains in this quarter called _Yerva_, are the _Monteses_, who give -great trouble to the people employed to collect the tea, which grows -spontaneously in their vicinity. The Monteses also greatly annoy the -Portuguese, who are constantly at variance with them. This tribe pushed -its way lately across Cuyaba, and part of Matto Grosso, in Brazil, to -make an incursion into the head settlements of Moxos, in order to open -a path to plunder the country of Santa Cruz de la Sierra and La Paz. - -These unsubdued Indians frequently attack the settlements of Paraguay, -which has obliged the inhabitants to form a militia in order to repel -their aggressions, which are always sudden, and at times when they are -least expected. The forts of Paraguay are nineteen in number, and are -generally near the river, which is also furnished with guard boats. - -The number of Indian villages of the missions is very considerable; -they are governed by magistrates, chosen from among themselves, and -generally consist of stone or mud houses covered with tiles, having a -large square in which is the priest's house, and a good church, the -number of inhabitants in each being seldom less than 600, and often -exceeding 2000, and the total population of Paraguay is estimated at -97,480 Indians and Spaniards or whites, of which the latter do not form -much more than a twentieth part. - -The only towns of importance are the capital, Asuncion, Villarica, -Curuguaty, Concepcion and Neembucu. - -_Asuncion, or Nuestra Senora de la Asuncion_, the capital, is situated -on an angle made by the eastern bank of the river Paraguay, eighteen -miles above the first mouth of the Pilcomayo, and forty-eight above -that of the second, in 59 deg. 35' west longitude, and 24 deg. 47' south -latitude; it was originally a small fort, built in 1538, which soon -became a town, and was erected into a bishopric in 1547. Its population -consists of 500 Spanish families, and several thousand Indians and -mestizoes. - -The adjacent country is rich and fertile, and the climate temperate; -the trees around it are always in bloom, foliage, or fruit, and the -rich pastures in its neighbourhood nourish abundance of cattle. It -exports hides, sugar, tobacco and Paraguay tea; but the boats which -trade to this place from the city of Buenos Ayres, take two or three -months to ascend the river La Plata, though the only difficulty in -navigating it is from the force of the descending current, as the winds -generally blowing from the south are favourable for the passage. - -_Villarica_ is 100 miles north-east of Asuncion, in 25 deg. 48' south -latitude, and 56 deg. 31' west longitude, and was founded in 1576, and -contains 3000 inhabitants. - -_Concepcion_, in 23 deg. 23' south latitude, and 57 deg. 16' west -longitude, contains 1550 inhabitants, and was built in 1773. - -_Curuguaty_, in 24 deg. 28' south latitude, and 56 deg. 54' west -longitude, contains 2250 inhabitants, and was founded in 1715. - -_Neembucu_ was built in 1779, in 26 deg. 52' south latitude, and 58 deg. -11' west longitude, and is peopled by 1730 souls. - - -_GOVERNMENT OF TUCUMAN._ - -The third government of Buenos Ayres is that of Tucuman, which is -bounded on the north-east by Chichas and Lipes in Charcas, north-west -and west by Atacama, west and south-west by Cuyo, or Cujo, south-east -by the Pampas or territories inhabited by the Aucaes, Huarcas, or -Pampas, Pihuenches, Puelches, Uncos and other unconquered tribes -which wander over the plains and mountains adjacent to Chili. On the -south-east, it has the jurisdiction of Santa Fe in Buenos Ayres, and -on the east it has the uncultivated Llanos de Manso and the country of -Chacos or Chaco Gualamba. - -Its extent is from 22 deg. to 33 deg. 10' south latitude, its length 370 -leagues, and its breadth 190 leagues from east to west. - -Tucuman was united to the empire of Peru, in the reign of Vira Cocha, -the eighth Inca, by the desire of the inhabitants, who probably -intimidated by the conquest of the adjacent country of Charcas, sent -messengers to beg to be admitted under the Peruvian government. - -The Spaniards conquered this country after finishing the subjugation -of Peru, and Diego de Roxas was the first discoverer in 1543, but it -was not subdued till the president Pedro de la Gasca, sent Juan Nunez -de Prado in 1549, to establish settlements in Tucma or Tucuman. The -inhabitants proving of a mild and peaceable nature, the expedition -was unattended with any bloodshed, and four cities were immediately -founded, namely, Santiago del Estero, San Miguel del Tucuman, Nuestra -Senora de Talavera, and Cordova de la Nueva Andalucia; but these being -found insufficient in so large a territory, Rioja, Santa, and Jujui or -Xuxui were soon afterwards added; the Spaniards then divided it into -three provinces, which they named after the nations they found in it, -_viz._ Juries on the east, Diaguiras on the west, and Comichingones to -the south; of which the Comichingones Indians dwelt in caves. - -_Climate, Features, &c._--The climate of Tucuman is hot in those parts -farthest from the main chain and branches of the Andes, but in general -the seasons are regular and the soil prolific and good; and as an -instance of the healthiness of some parts of the country, it is stated -that Louisa Truxo, a negress, lived to the amazing age of 175, and was -living on the 5th of October, 1780. - -It produces all sorts of grain, esculent plants and fruits in -abundance, with plenty of excellent pasture for the innumerable herds -of cattle, mules, and horses it contains. - -The forests, which overspread a great part of it, contain good timber -for building, and which forms one great article of its trade, supplying -Santa Fe, Buenos Ayres and its own towns with boards which are conveyed -in carts drawn by oxen. It also supplies the timber so necessary in -the mining operations at Potosi, and so dear is a peculiar hard wood -of which axles for the wheels and engines are made, that 2000 dollars -are given for a large axle, owing to the great labour and expence of -transport. Box trees, laurels, pines, dragon trees, walnuts, palms -and cedars, are a few of the useful plants of Tucuman; and cotton, -vines, tobacco, cacao, cochineal, indigo and flax are also cultivated, -but none of these articles enter into its export trade, which chiefly -consists of cattle and timber; honey and wax are also plentifully -produced in the forests. - -In Tucuman, the desert places and woods abound with all kinds of game -and wild animals, as pumas, jaguars, ant bears, bears, wild hogs, elks, -deer, hares, rabbits, armadillos, guanucos, vicunas, and many other -kinds. The American ostrich or cassowary frequents the plains, and -innumerable birds are seen in its woods, &c. The immense boa, called in -this country ampolaba, destroys the smaller animals which come within -its reach, and appears, when lying among the grass, like the huge trunk -of an old tree; besides the boa, there are also rattle-snakes, vipers -and other reptiles common to warm climates. - -In the rivers and lakes are found abundance of fish, tapirs, cavies, -water-pigs, and other amphibious animals. - -The great chain of the Andes, which borders and sends forth branches -into Tucuman, is so high in some parts as to reach the regions of -eternal snow; in it there are several mines, which were formerly worked -by the Spaniards, and there remain striking vestiges of the mining -operations carried on by the Peruvians. - -The rivers of Tucuman are numerous, the principal ones being the -_Vermejo_, the _Salado_, the _Xuxuy_, the _Dulce_ and the _Quarto_. -The _Vermejo_, or _Rio Grande_, rises near Casabinda, and flows with a -stately stream into the La Plata, near Corrientes. The _Salado_ takes -its waters from many streams which flow down from the mountains of -Tucuman, in south latitude 24 deg., and chiefly from those of the valley -of Calchaqui, where it receives a large stream which comes from the -south-west; it then runs into the valley of Huachipas, which name it -takes, but soon changes it for that of Charomores, from a place so -called; it then flows westward, and is called Pasage; as being in -the road from Buenos Ayres to La Plata, it must be here crossed by -travellers with some risk, owing to the rapidity of its current; it -then is called De Balbuena, from passing through the settlement of that -name, and is joined near this place by the _Rio Piedras_, and passes -down through the district of Santiago del Estoro, from whence it runs -eighty leagues, under the name of _Salado_, and loses itself eighty-six -miles north-north-west of the city of Santa Fe, in a lake named El -Mar Chiquito. The _Chacos_, or _Dulce_, runs by the side of this -river, after it passes through Salta, and at last falls into it. Its -whole course is 200 leagues, and it formerly reached Santa Fe, where -it formed a peninsula with an arm of the La Plata, but having opened -itself new channels by its great swellings, it now loses itself in the -lake, which is the case with almost all the rivers of this province, as -they generally form large sheets of water, from which they rarely issue. - -The numerous lakes in this province are generally shallow, and produced -by the overflowing of the rivers: but they have the singular quality of -being mostly saline, particularly those in the neighbourhood of the Rio -Vermejo. - -There is in these vast plains through which the rivers pass an immense -tract of land, the soil of which is saturated with fossil salt. It -extends to the south of Buenos Ayres, and is about 700 miles in length -by 150 in breadth. It is said that in this extent, which reaches to -the Rio Vermejo, there is not a river, well or lake whose waters are -not brackish. All the rivers which flow through it to the La Plata are -fresh until they cross this waste, after which they become salt till -they enter the great stream. Even the Pilcomayo and Vermejo, although -they have a free course, have always a salt taste when the waters are -low. This substance appears in the greatest abundance between Santa Fe -and Cordova, and the salt quality of the soil reaches to St. Jago del -Estero, where the whole ground is covered with a white incrustation -even to the foot of the Cordillera. - -Natural saltpetre is also collected in this part of the country, after -a shower the ground being whitened with it. Chaco contains many salt -lakes, and to the south-west of Buenos Ayres, they are found at from -400 to 450 miles distance. To these, journeys are frequently made with -carts, in order to collect the fine crystallized grains which cover -their banks. - -The cattle of this country cannot subsist without this substance; they -devour with avidity the salted clay they find in the ditches; and when -this happens to fail, as is sometimes the case in Paraguay, they perish -in the course of a short time. - -From Buenos Ayres, the great road to Potosi and Lima passes through -Tucuman. In 1748, regular stages were built all the way, post-houses -were erected, and relays of horses and carriages provided. - -The method of travelling is in covered waggons drawn by oxen or horses, -in which the traveller can recline, and must necessarily exercise much -patience: but the silver and gold from the mines, as well as all kinds -of merchandize, are conveyed along this road on the backs of mules. -Its extent from Buenos Ayres to Potosi, is 1617, or according to some -accounts, 1873 miles, 400 of which are over the elevated chains of the -Andes, and are impassable for the waggons; from Potosi to Lima the -route continues 1215 miles more, and passes over the highest ridges of -the mountains, where the traveller undergoes all sorts of danger and -privations, and is exposed to the utmost extremes of heat and cold. - -About the distance of 500 miles from Buenos Ayres, the country is one -plain, covered only with cattle, horses and mules, and stretching -to the horizon; the land then begins insensibly to rise, and in 500 -miles more, the road lies over the branches of the chain of Chiquitos, -to the town of Salta, where the grand and snow-covered tops of the -central Andes present themselves. The thick woods of Tucuman are then -lost; but the swarms of locusts, crickets, ants, mosquitoes, toads, -frogs, serpents, and alligators, also disappear, the traveller having -now entered the temperate region; the road then winds amid abrupt and -frightful precipices and chasms, and sometimes with so narrow a footway -that the mules can scarcely move. - -The path is here indented with deep holes, in which the animals -place their legs, and thus prevent the danger of slipping over the -precipices; at other places where the road inclines at a great slope, -these sagacious creatures place themselves with their fore and hind -feet close together, and inclining forward, as if about to lie down, -they slide with inconceivable velocity to the bottom. - -These mountains in some parts are traversed at the bottom of narrow -and perpendicular clefts, where, if the animal falls, his rider must -infallibly be crushed. - -The passage of the many torrents and rivers is also another difficulty; -across those which are shallow, very large and high horses are -used, which are trained for the purpose; over the deeper ones, rope -bridges are thrown; and it is only in summer that this journey can be -attempted, as the swelling of the rivers and the winter torrents render -them impracticable. Even in summer, when the snow in the higher regions -suddenly melts, the torrents are swoln to such a degree, and dash with -such force from the mountains, that many an unhappy traveller perishes. - -Mules constitute the great commerce of Tucuman; these animals are -bought in Cordova, Santa Fe and Buenos Ayres, and being fattened during -the winter in the valleys and plains, are driven to Peru, where they -sell for twelve or seventeen dollars each, 50,000 being thus sold every -year, and with them are driven from 14 to 16,000 cows. It also sends -soap wrapped in hides to Peru; but the importation of all articles is -subject to a toll, on passing the Peruvian frontier, the produce of -which is applied to the pay of the troops, the repair of the forts, -and the defence of the frontier against the unsubdued Indians; for -there is not a government in all America so liable to the incursions of -these tribes as Tucuman, as they surround it on the east and south; for -which reason its population has not much increased, the settlers being -continually liable to lose their property from these irruptions. Of the -forts built for the protection of the government, there are at present -thirteen; and the amount of the population, including the converted -Indians, is 100,000. - -That singular order, the Jesuits, had some missions in Tucuman, and -formed about 24,000 of the natives into a militia, to repel the -invasions of the Chaco Indians, of whom the _Mataguayos_ are the most -warlike; but the Indians of Tucuman at present are under the care -of the monks of St. Francis, and are employed in cultivating maize, -cotton, tobacco, &c., for their use, and those of the towns. - -The capital and chief towns of this government are Tucuman, Cordoba, -Rioxa, Jujuy, Santiago, Londres, and Salta, with thirty-eight other -towns and villages, and ten missions. - -Its capital, _Tucuman_, or _San Miguel del Tucuman_, is in 26 deg. 49' -south latitude, and 64 deg. 36' west longitude, 1170 geographical miles -in a direct line from Lima, 462 south of La Plata, and 200 miles east of -Copiapo, in Chili; it was founded by Diego de Villaroel, in 1685, but -placed in another situation, its present site, by the then governor, -in 1680, on account of an inundation which swept away the church and -houses. It is in a pleasant plain, though much in want of water, having -a mild climate, producing abundance of fruits and grain, and containing -a cathedral, a convent of Franciscans, one of La Merced, and a college, -which was built by the Jesuits. - -It has a trade in mules, but its principal traffic consists in oxen for -the travelling waggons, and in the waggons themselves; there are also -some unworked silver mines in its neighbourhood. - -San Miguel is the see of a bishop who resides at Cordova. The bishopric -is that of Tucuman, and was erected in 1570. In the jurisdiction which -surrounds it, is found a tree, named Quebracho, on account of its great -hardness, which often breaks the axe, and becoming, when steeped in -water, as solid as stone. The salt river, _Sali_ is about a league -south of this city. - -_Cordoba_, or _Cordova de la Nueva Andalucia_, is in 31 deg. 30' south -latitude, 63 deg. 15' west longitude, 156 leagues from Buenos Ayres, at -the foot of the Andes, and was founded, in 1550, by Juan Nunez de Prado. -The river _Primero_, so called because it is the first of five, is in -its vicinity, and a hill of some height adjoins it, so that, although -in the plain, the water easily passes off. - -This city approaches a square form, with many good houses, a large but -irregular cathedral, three convents, and two colleges. Few places of -the same extent display equal wealth, the Spaniards and Creoles being -noted for their industry. The chief trade is to the fair at Salta, in -mules, where they are sold for Peru, and the town of Cordova contains -many slaves, who weave and make their own cloths. - -The bishop and chapter also reside here. - -Wine and grain are brought from Mendoza in Cuyo, brandy in leathern -bags from St. Juan de la Frontera, and meat and fruits are abundantly -supplied in the neighbourhood. Cordova is the capital of a province or -district of the same name, extending about 100 leagues in length, and -seventy in breadth, intersected by a chain of mountains, and celebrated -for its woollen manufactures. - -The mountains which traverse this province are covered with perpetual -snow, and at Ramauso, sixty miles from Cordova, they branch out, and -are so far from each other that a saline plain, seventy miles in -length, extends to Tucuman, in which nothing grows but the salsola -kali, nearly four yards in height, amid the white incrustations of -fossil salt. - -The decayed city of _St. Jago del Estero_ is in this plain, 650 miles -north-north-west of Buenos Ayres, in 27 deg. 46' south latitude, and 65 -deg. 12' west longitude, on the banks of the Dolce, which is large and -navigable, and affords great variety of fish. It contains about 300 -houses, or 500 families, of mulattoes and mestizoes, of a dark yellow -complexion and sickly appearance, from the great heat of the climate; -as surrounded on one side with the plain, and on the other with deep -forests; the place suffers from a stagnation of the air. The women are -subject to goitrous swellings, which much disfigure them, though they -are generally handsome when not afflicted with this disease; and the -country near the woods produces wheat, rice, barley, and all sorts of -fruits, particularly figs and raisins; the forests supplying game, but -are infested with jaguars and beasts of prey. - -_Rioxa_, or _Todos Santos de Rioja_, is a small city, founded, in 1591, -by Juan Ramirez de Velasco, on a plain of great extent, bounded on the -west by the mountains, in which the inhabitants breed some cattle. - -Its territory produces cotton, grain and vines, but the soil is poor. - -This city contains a parish church, three convents and an ancient -college of the Jesuits, being in 29 deg. 12' south latitude, and 70 -deg. west longitude, 240 miles west-south-west of St. Jago del Estero. - -_Xuxuy_, or _Jujuy_, or _San Salvador_, is twenty leagues north -of Salta, 174 miles north of Santiago del Estero, in 23 deg. 5' south -latitude, and 66 deg. 2' west longitude, and is the chief place of a -district of the same name on the frontier of Peru. This town is seated -at the foot of a high mountain of the eastern Andes, contains about 300 -houses, and is the most northerly city of Tucuman. Near it the river -_Xuxui_, being joined by several others, flows towards the La Plata, -after forming the Vermejo in Chaco. - -_Londres_, or _London_ is a village which was formerly founded by Juan -de Zuriata, in honour of Mary Queen of England, in 1555, on the event -of her marriage with Philip II. - -It is in 19 deg. 12' south latitude, but is at present of little -importance. - -_Salta_, or _San Miguel de Salta_, is a city and district of this -government, from which the cattle trade with Peru is carried on. - -This city stands in 24 deg. 17' south latitude, and 64 deg. 1' 30" -west longitude, and was founded, in 1582, by Don Gonzalo de Obreu y -Figueroa, under the name of _San Clemente de la Nueva Sevilla_, but -was afterwards changed to its present scite in the beautiful valley of -Lerma, which is five leagues in circumference, and through which passes -a river, on whose shore the city stands, having a fine bridge over it. - -It contains 400 houses, and 500 men capable of bearing arms, who have -hitherto defended the city against the Indians, though it has no walls. -In it are one church, two chapels, four convents, and a college which -belonged to the Jesuits, the inhabitants being chiefly Spaniards and -their slaves. Its environs are very fertile, abounding in wheat, rye -and vines, with pastures for the cattle exported from this place to -Peru; and its commerce consists in corn, meal, wine, cattle, salt meat, -fat hides and other commodities, which are sent to all parts of Peru. -The cattle and mules of Tucuman also go from this place, which is -situated on the high road from Buenos Ayres to Potosi. - -It is computed that the number of mules fattened in the valley of Lerma -amount, during the months of February and March, when the annual fair -is held, to 60,000, and besides these, there are generally 4000 horses -and cows. - -The natives are subject to a species of leprosy, and nearly all the -women, after they have attained the age of 20, have the coto, or -goitrous swelling in the throat, which disfigures them very much, and -which they take great pains to conceal. - -Salta is fifty miles south of Xuxui, and the river which washes the -town runs east, and enters the Vermejo. - - -_THE GOVERNMENT OF CUYO OR CUJO._ - -Cuyo was formerly a Chilian province; it is bounded on the north by -Tucuman, on the east by the Pampas or deserts of Buenos Ayres, on -the south by Patagonia or Terra Magellanica, and on the west by the -Andes, which separate it from Chili; it is comprehended between the -twenty-ninth and thirty-fifth degrees of south latitude, and extends -about 111 leagues from north to south, its breadth being nearly 110. - -_Climate, Features, &c._--In this extensive tract, the climate is -variable, during the summer months those parts which do not lie on the -high Andes are excessively hot, and the winter is very cold. Storms of -thunder and hail are also common, and in the parts nearest Chili, these -storms are of short continuance, but very violent. - -The soil consists of arid plains, fertile valleys, and desert -highlands; but those parts, which are the most barren, become extremely -fertile, if irrigated by drawing over them the waters of the numerous -rivers in which it abounds. - -Fruits and grains of Europe arrive at perfection much sooner in Cujo -than in Chili, and the vines produce a rich and delicious wine. - -The history of this province is uninteresting; the aborigines, of whom -there are few remaining and who are called _Guarpes_, were conquered by -the Peruvian Incas; and on the road over the Andes to Chili, are still -to be seen some tambos or military stations of the Inca Yupanqui. - -The Spaniards who explored Cuyo were under the command of Francisco -de Aguirre, who was sent by Valdivia from Chili, but returned without -effecting any thing of importance. - -In 1560, Don Garcia de Mendoza sent Pedro Castillo to conquer this -country; he subdued the Guarpes and founded two cities. - -The principal rivers in this extensive province are the _San Juan_, -the _Mendoza_, and the _Tunujan_. _The San Juan_ rises in the Chilian -Andes, and washes the walls of St. Juan de la Frontera. The _Mendoza_ -also rises in the same chain, and the two, after receiving several -smaller streams, and running twenty-five and thirty leagues, lose -themselves in the chain of lakes called Guanasache, which extends more -than fifty leagues from north to south, and also receives the _Tunujan_. - -In these lakes, according to some maps, the great _Rio Colorado_ rises, -which flows into the Atlantic, in about 40 deg. south latitude. - -The eastern part of Cujo is watered by several rivers, but of them -very little is known, as these parts are mostly immense plains, in -which the herbage is of such a height as to conceal the cattle and -animals that feed in them. Unlike the savannahs of the Orinoco and the -La Plata, they possess lofty and beautiful trees; of these a species -of cocoa palm is the most singular, its leaves and branches commence -from the ground, and though they bear some resemblance to those of the -cocoa-nut, they are hard and sharp like the aloe, and the tree, which -never exceeds eighteen feet in height, bears a fruit also resembling -that of the cocoa, but containing no kernel or edible substance. - -Its trunk is very large, and consists of several concentric layers, -each of which to the heart, are finer as they approach the centre, and -from a yellow decrease by shades to a perfect white. Of these fibrous -coats, the natives make cloth which is strong and flexible, but not -so soft as that of flax. The other trees of Cujo are those which are -peculiar to the warm regions of Chili and La Plata; of them, the cactus -family bear a large proportion, and the nopal or opuntia feeds the -cochineal insect, of which, however, none are exported. - -The animals of Cujo are similar to those of Buenos Ayres, or Tucuman, -as jaguars, cougars or pumas, wild swine, deer, &c. The jaguars grow -to a great size, even as large as an ass, and their skin, like that of -the African tiger, is beautifully variegated with white, yellow and -black. The natives hunt them for their skin, arming themselves in these -encounters with long lances of hard wood; but they seldom attack the -animal singly, three Indians usually composing the hunting party, and -exerting all their address and courage to kill it. The cold parts of -this province abound with vicunas, llamas, &c. - -Alligators, iguanas, and other amphibious animals, frequent the lakes -and rivers, which are abundantly supplied with fish. - -Birds are as numerous in Cuyo as in Paraguay, from the great condor -to the beautiful little picaflor, or humming-bird. Ostriches, or -rather cassowaries, frequent the plains, and are so fleet in their -half-running half-flying motion, that the swiftest horse is soon tired -of the pursuit. - -The insect and reptile tribes are as numerous as in the other warm -tracts of America, and only disappear as the land elevates itself -towards the cold regions of the air. Large grass-hoppers, or locusts, -are so abundant in the plains, that they frequently cover several miles -of country, destroying every green thing they settle on. - -The northern parts of Cuyo furnish gold and silver, but the mines of -these metals have been till lately unworked, owing to the poverty, or -rather want of numbers of the inhabitants. Its mountains also yield -lead, sulphur, coal and gypsum, while the lakes and plains furnish salt. - -In the neighbourhood of St. Juan de la Frontera, the hills are wholly -composed of strata of white marble of a beautiful grain. It is used by -the inhabitants in making fine lime, and in building bridges over the -small canals, with which they irrigate their fields. - -In this country, through which the road from Buenos Ayres to Chili -passes, besides the tambos or military posts of the ancient Peruvians, -there are several singular monuments of a far more ancient date. These -are however very imperfectly known; but one of them, on a low range of -hills, between Mendoza and La Punta, has been repeatedly visited. It -consists of a large stone pillar or obelisk, 150 feet in height, and -twelve in diameter, on which are curious marks, supposed to resemble -eastern characters; and near a river is another stone, containing the -same characters, the figures of several animals, and the print of a -foot, of which, the Spanish priests have availed themselves, to impress -their converts with the idea, that it was the work of one of the -Apostles, who left this mark as a token of his mission. - -The commerce of Cuyo is of little importance, consisting chiefly in -wines, brandy, and dried fruits, which it sends to Buenos Ayres, -Cordova, &c. Its European fruits, grapes, figs, pears and apples, are -much sought after, and the wool of the vicuna is sent for exportation -to Buenos Ayres; its beautiful fawn colour, gloss and softness, -rendering it of great value in Spain. - -Whatever commercial relation is established between the viceroyalty -of Buenos Ayres and the kingdom of Chili, the goods must pass through -Cuyo; the passage over the Andes being in this government, which, -although exceedingly difficult, will one day render it an important -district, especially should the trade of China or the east embrace the -southern and western shores of America. - -The capital of Cujo is the city of _Mendoza_, in 33 deg. 25' south -latitude, and 69 deg. 47' west longitude, in a plain at the foot of the -Andes, the environs being adorned with plantations, which are watered -by means of canals. - -It contains four convents, a college, formerly established by the -Jesuits, and a church. - -A silver mine having been opened in its vicinity, named _Uspallata_, -the number of inhabitants of Mendoza is constantly increasing; at -present, they amount to about six thousand, who are employed in these -works, or in carrying on a productive trade with Buenos Ayres, in -fruits, wool, and wine. The river Mendoza flows by this town, which -is fifty leagues from Santiago in Chili, and the district around it -contains two silver, one copper, and one lead mines. - -The next town of note in Cujo, is _San Juan de la Frontera_, forty-five -leagues north of Mendoza, in 33 deg. 25' south latitude, and 68 deg. 55' -west longitude near the Andes, from which circumstance it is also called -_San Juan de la Cordillera_. The neighbourhood of this city, which is -washed by the river San Juan, has some gold mines; but its principal -trade consists in sending wine, brandy, fruits, and vicuna-wool to -Buenos Ayres; the pomegranates of San Juan being greatly esteemed for -their size and flavour. - -Its population is nearly the same as that of the capital, which it -resembles in regard to the number of its public edifices. - -Besides these two cities, Cuyo contains the towns of _San Luis de -Loyola_, or _De la Punta_, Jachal, Vallofertil, Mogua, Concorto, -Leonsito, Calingarta, and Pismanta. - -_San Luis de Loyola_ is the great thoroughfare for the commerce between -Chili, Cujo, and Buenos Ayres; it is situated sixty-two leagues east of -Mendoza, and has a church, convent, and college, of the late order of -Jesuits. The inhabitants amounting to about 200. - -The other towns are of little note or importance, and are at present -mere villages. - -The fifth and last division of the viceroyalty of La Plata, is-- - - -_THE GOVERNMENT OF BUENOS AYRES_, - -Which is bounded on the north by the government of St. Paul, in Brazil; -on the north-west by the river Parana, which divides it from Paraguay; -on the west by the plains of Tucuman; on the east by the Portuguese -frontier, which passes south through lake Mini; on the south-west, by -the Atlantic Ocean, and the line of demarcation between it and the -independent tribes; on the south-east by Cuyo, and on the south, by an -imaginary line, passing through the Pampas or Patagonia. - -_History, &c._--The history of this government is that of the -viceroyalty; the most extraordinary part of it being that which relates -to the subjugation of the Indians by the Jesuits, who established their -principal stations in the country, embraced by the Parana on the north, -the Uruguay on the east; and the La Plata on the west and south. - -The road for these missionaries was prepared by Alvar Nunez de Vaca, -in 1541, who conquered the country, and named it Vera. Two monks of -the order of St. Francis accompanied the governor in his expedition, -and laboured very hard to convert the natives, which they succeeded so -well in, that others of the same order were soon established in the -country, in which they erected chapels and villages. Of these monks, -Father Luis de Bolanos was the most zealous; he stayed fifty years -among the Guaranies, and made himself master of their language; at -last, bent down with age and fatigue, he went to welcome the arrival of -some Jesuit brothers, who came to assist him in his labours; these were -with difficulty admitted into the country, owing to the aversion of -the natives to have any other pastor than the venerable Bolanos. From -this time the Jesuits laboured so effectually to convert the Indians, -that in a very short period, the greater part of the country was in -their power; they extended their dominion over Paraguay, and organized -the Indians into a well disciplined body of militia, by which means -they kept all persons, whether Spaniards or Portuguese, out of their -territories. - -From Paraguay and Parana, they drew such great revenues, by making -their converts work at stated periods in the plantations, &c., that -they were enabled not only to supply every thing necessary for the -comfort of the people from Europe, but were also enabled to send -immense sums to the superiors of their order. The Indians were -studiously kept in ignorance of the Spanish language; they were -instructed in all sorts of useful arts, and sedulously trained to the -fatigues of a military life, being formed into large bodies of cavalry -and infantry, and well supplied with arms and ammunition. - -Some hundred thousand of Americans were already under the power, and -infatuated in their subjection to these fathers, when in 1750, the -courts of Madrid and Lisbon, entered into a treaty for the purpose of -definitively fixing the boundaries of their respective possessions in -the western world. - -Commissions were appointed in 1752, to carry this treaty into -execution, when on account of the representation of the Jesuits, who -were unwilling to allow the new Portuguese limits, a war ensued between -the two countries, and the Indians taking an active part against the -Portuguese, the court of Lisbon began to entertain suspicions of the -real motive of the Jesuits, in forming such extensive governments in -America. - -From this time, their influence in Europe began to decrease; a trial -was instituted against one of the order in France, by some of the -merchants concerned in speculations at Martinique which had involved -the society in debt; on this trial, their constitution and books were -examined, and found to contain matter so dangerous to the interests of -the kingdom, that it was declared necessary to suppress their order -in France, and in the year following, the king of Portugal being -assassinated, it was resolved to expel the Jesuits from that kingdom. - -This was followed by their expulsion from Spain and Naples, in 1767, -and in 1773 Pope Clement XIV. totally abolished the society. - -They were exiled from America soon after, and the care of the nations -they had converted was given to priests of other orders, but chiefly -to the Franciscans, and their government placed in the hands of civil -officers, in the same manner as in other parts of America. - -On their expulsion from the territories on the banks of the Parana -there were discovered in thirty settlements alone, no less than 769,590 -horses, 13,900 mules, and 271,540 sheep. - -_Climate, Features, &c._--The climate of Buenos Ayres is variable -according to the situation of the districts on the great Pampas or -plains, the heat in summer being scorching, whilst at Buenos Ayres, and -in the mountains of Parana or Guayra, the winter is cold. - -Nearly the whole of the southern, western, and some of the northern -parts of this government consist of wide spread plains, on which -immense herds of cattle are fed; the road from the capital to Cuyo -lying over one of these levels, called the _Pampas_, which are of -an extent that would equal the size of a great European kingdom. On -this plain the cattle range unowned and unvalued, being only hunted -down occasionally for the sake of their hides and tallow; wild horses -also abound in these deserts, and wander about in such troops that -travellers are surrounded by them for three weeks together; sometimes -they are observed in innumerable quantities passing over the road at -full speed for hours at a time, and on these occasions it requires -great exertion to prevent being trampled down by them; but the same -road is often travelled without one of these creatures being seen. - -The plains also abound in cassowaries, partridges, geese, ducks, deer -and other game, and are uninhabited by man. - -No stages are fixed upon the route to Chili, as it is impossible -in parts of it which are covered with sands to preserve a regular -tract, and it is also infested with the predatory incursions of the -surrounding Indians, the method of travelling is therefore in covered -carts, made as commodious as possible, drawn by oxen, and accompanied -with horses and mules to carry the baggage and goods; merchants and -others performing this journey, set out in companies, and generally in -the evening two hours before sun-set, travelling all night till an hour -after sun-rise in the morning, after which they rest during the heat of -the day, to partake of the provisions they bring with them, or the game -they procure on the journey. - -In this course their whole dependence is on the compass, which -guides them across the vast steppe, and the travelers are exposed to -the dangers of being murdered by the Indians, of sinking under the -scorching noon-day heat, or of dying for want of water, of which none -is to be had, but by mere chance, besides what they carry with them in -skins. - -The rains which fall in this plain are of short continuance but in -great quantity, and when these happen, the conductors never fail to -replenish their water bags; but from these rains the caravan becomes -drenched through, and not unfrequently the goods and property of the -passengers are spoilt. - -The westerly winds or pamperos are another source of inquietude to the -persons undertaking this fatiguing journey; they sometimes blow with -such violence that it becomes utterly impossible to proceed, as the -carriages would inevitably be overturned. - -In this government the mountainous parts are chiefly those situated to -the north-west of the river Uruguay, and which border on the Portuguese -frontiers; they are little known, and are inhabited only by tribes of -savage and warlike Indians, who set the missionaries at defiance. - -The rivers of Buenos Ayres are the great _La Plata_ already described, -the _Parana_, the _Uruguay_, and many others of less note, but -generally very large. - -The _Parana_ rises in the province of Minas Geraes to the south of the -city of Joas del Rey, in Brazil, in some lofty mountains, and runs -from north-east to west for 300 leagues, when it joins the Paraguay, -receiving in its course innumerable streams; at the distance of 125 -leagues from its mouth it has two falls of a tremendous nature, which -render it necessary for the boats that navigate it to be carried a -short distance over-land. The Parana is a considerable river before -it enters the Spanish territories, and after passing the frontiers -of Brazil in about 24 deg. 40' it flows in a south-west course through -the colonies of the Jesuits, in a country of incomparable fertility -and of a delightful aspect. It seldom overflows its banks, owing to -the breadth and depth of its channel, and it is much more rapid than -the Paraguay as it flows from higher ground: at its junction with -the Paraguay it is nearly two miles broad, and incloses innumerable -islands, which are overflowed in the annual inundations; but it is not -navigable in its whole extent, on account of the two falls and several -rapids. - -This river was always supposed (and is still conjectured by some -geographers) to be the main stream of the great La Plata. - -The third great river of Buenos Ayres is the _Uruguay_, which rises -about the 28 deg. of south latitude, in the Portuguese province of Rio -Grande, among the chain of mountains that run along the coast of the -Atlantic. Its course is at first to the west, along a high valley, -which is separated from the Parana by an elevated ridge, and it -receives so many smaller streams that at eighty miles from its sources -it is a large river. The great declivity of the ground over which it -has passed gives it so much strength, that after emerging from the -mountains it overflows the plain to such an extent, that it requires -half an hour's time to cross it in a ten-oared boat, though the current -is not very strong. After leaving the mountains at the distance of -690 miles from its mouth it flows through a desert country for a -considerable length, and then turning to the south it receives an -increase from numberless streams, and enters the La Plata, in the 34 -deg. of south latitude. - -The banks of the Uruguay are romantic and fertile, after it quits the -desert and turns southerly: but it is generally a rapid stream, though -navigable for vessels two hundred miles from the La Plata; beyond this -it can only be ascended by canoes or rafts, as it is interrupted by -frequent falls and rapids. - -On the southern confines of Buenos Ayres, the plains are drained by the -_Saladillo_, the _Hueyque Leuva_ or _Colorado_, and the _Desaguadero_ -which descend from the Andes of Cuyo: but of these rivers very little -is known. - -The chief town of this government is _Buenos Ayres_, which, being the -metropolis of the viceroyalty, has been already described. - -_Monte Video_ is the next city of note in this province; it is situated -on the north side of the La Plata, in a small bay twenty leagues west -of Cape Santa Maria, in 34 deg. 54' 48" south latitude, and 56 deg. 14' -30" west longitude, and has its name from a mountain that overlooks the -place, and on which is a light-house that has a good view to leeward. -Monte Video is a very recent town, and was erected on account of its -harbour being one of the best on the coast. - -It stands on a gentle elevation at the end of a small peninsula, and is -completely enclosed with fortifications. The harbour, which is the best -in the La Plata, is shoal, and exposed to the north-east winds. - -This city is tolerably well built, the houses being generally of one -story. The great square contains the cathedral, which is a handsome -edifice, the town-house, and the public prison: but the streets are -unpaved, and consequently either always dusty or muddy, and the -inhabitants experience great inconvenience from the want of water, the -spring which furnishes the place being two miles distant. - -Its climate is moist; in summer the heat is very great, and the sky is -frequently overcast by dreadful storms of thunder, lightning and heavy -rain: but the winter is cold, and the air, during the months of June, -July and August, keen and piercing. - -The vicinity of this city presents an agreeable landscape of hill and -valley, interspersed with small rivers; but it wants trees, and so -scarce, indeed, is wood, that almost all the houses of Monte-Video are -floored with brick. The inhabitants do not attend to the cultivation -of the fertile country that surrounds them, their principal property -consisting in the numerous herds which feed in the plains towards the -Portuguese frontier. - -The population of this city is between 15,000 and 20,000 souls, -consisting of Spaniards, creoles and slaves. - -Its commerce consists in exporting hides, tallow and salted beef; -the hides and tallow being sent to Europe, and the salt beef to the -Havannah and the West Indies. - -Monte-Video was taken by the British in their expedition against Buenos -Ayres, and was delivered up by treaty to its ancient masters; since -which time it has declared its adherence to the cause of the mother -country, and its citizens have had several conflicts with the insurgent -government of Buenos Ayres. At present it is garrisoned and held by the -Portuguese. - -_Santa Fe_ is the third city of Buenos Ayres; it is seated at the -confluence of the Salado with the La Plata, about ninety leagues -north-west of the metropolis. It is of a square form, surrounded with a -wall, and tolerably fortified, to preserve it from the attacks of the -Indians, who have pillaged it several times, always massacreing the -inhabitants. It contains a church and convent. The environs abound in -game, and the soil being fertile produces corn, wine and fruits. It is -the channel through which the Paraguay tea is sent to Peru, and is, on -that account, of considerable importance. - -_Maldonado_ ranks as the fourth town of this government. It is situated -on the same shore of the La Plata as Monte-Video, in 34 deg. 50' south -latitude, and 55 deg. 36' west longitude, 100 miles west of Buenos Ayres, -and nine leagues west of Cape Santa Maria, at the entrance of the -river, and is a small place, chiefly noted as having a harbour, in -which vessels trading to Buenos Ayres sometimes refit. - -_Las Corrientes_, near the confluence of the Parana and Paraguay, on -the east bank of the La Plata, 100 leagues north of Santa Fe and 250 -of Buenos Ayres, is a small town well situated for the trade between -Paraguay, Peru and Buenos Ayres. It contains a church, three convents, -and a small population, who are formed into a militia, to defend the -place against the Indians. This city is in 27 deg. 32' south latitude, and -57 deg. 50' west longitude. The trade carried on from this place with the -capital is by means of the river, in fine tobacco, sugar, yellow wax, -Paraguay tea, cotton, cloth and thread. - -_Colonia del Sacramento_, in 34 deg. 22' south latitude, and 57 deg. 52' -west longitude, was formerly a place of some importance, as, the small -tract of country surrounding it, which is thirty-three miles north-east -of Buenos Ayres on the opposite bank of the La Plata, having been -colonized by the Portuguese, in 1678, they built a city on it. It was -taken from them in 1684, they however recovered it, but were again -driven out in 1704, and it was not restored till the peace. In 1706, it -was besieged a third time by the Spaniards, with 800 troops and 1500 -Indians by land, and with four vessels by sea, but they could make -no impression, so strongly was it fortified. It was however taken in -1762, but restored at the subsequent peace; the Spaniards still viewing -it with a jealous eye, took it for the last time in 1777, when they -destroyed the city and fortifications. Its only importance, at present, -consists in its having a tolerable harbour or bay, formed by the river, -and it is said, that the Portuguese have again recently occupied it. - -The above are the principal towns of this extended government, which -contains many others, most of them are however either missionary or -military stations; the former abounding on the banks of the Parana and -Uraguay, while the latter are chiefly on the north-west, towards the -Llanos de Manso and Tucuman, and on the east towards the Portuguese -frontier. - -The provinces of this government have not been enumerated, they are -little known, and many of them are only divisions of the missions, such -as _Guarania_, which extends along the south shores of the Parana, -and contains about thirty villages of the Guaranis Indians. On the -south-east of Buenos Ayres, the country is named _Tuyu_; it however -contains no Spanish settlements of any importance, and seems to be a -tract crossed by a chain of mountains, which divide it from the coast -of the Atlantic; much has been written concerning the _Abipons_, who -occupy the north-west corner of this government; they appear to be -a tribe consisting of about 5000 souls, who are of a very warlike -disposition, frequently disturbing the settlements. Their language -is distinct from that of the neighbouring nations, and they exist by -the chase, preferring the flesh of the jaguar or American tiger to -any other animal, and retire to the islands and high trees, when the -annual inundations commence in their country. The _Patagonians_ on the -southern frontier have also excited much curiosity; but it seems to -be proved beyond a doubt, that they are merely a race of Indians of a -stature rather above the middling size, and that they do not differ in -their general habits from their neighbours. - -The limits of this work will not permit any farther description of -the Indian nations who inhabit and surround Buenos Ayres. Of many of -them, the Spanish settlers know nothing more than the names, and of the -rest, it is observed, that the more the settlements spread, the less -the Aborigines are seen, and the thinner their numbers become; most -probably owing to the new diseases they acquire, and the more wandering -and uncertain life they are obliged to lead; not so the Indians -who settle in the missions, their life becoming one of peace and -tranquillity, their wants being supplied by their own labour, and not -being constantly exposed to the burning sun or chilling rains of the -southern regions, their numbers continually increase; and though the -Spaniards formerly used very harsh methods, to convert them either to -their faith or their profit, it cannot be denied, that they have within -the last century, wiped that blot from the historic page, and with a -few exceptions, have conduced very materially to the welfare of a race, -remarkable for their general inaptitude and unwillingness to assist in -bettering their own condition. - -Having therefore detailed every subject concerning the extensive -governments of the viceroyalty of La Plata, which has been deemed -interesting or novel, with the exception only of particular -descriptions of the animals which are peculiar to it, and to the other -southern regions of America, it now remains for us, only to treat of -the last great political division of the Spanish colonies in that -country, and in so doing, we shall give a more extended account of some -of the most singular zoological objects; as they are equally common to -the territory about to be treated of, as to Buenos Ayres. - -The kingdom of Chili will therefore now engage our attention. - - - - -CAPTAIN GENERALSHIP OF _CHILI_. - -The kingdom of Chili or Chile is the last and most southerly of the -governments which compose the empire of Spanish America. - - -EXTENT AND BOUNDARIES. - -It extends between the 24 deg. and 45 deg. of south latitude, and -comprises the continent bounded by the ocean on the west, and the Andes -on the east; and the islands on its coasts. Its greatest length being -about 1260 miles, and its greatest breadth 300. The extent has been -estimated to be equal to 22,574 square leagues. - -It is bounded on the north by La Plata, and from Peru it is separated -by the desert and province of Atacama; on the east it is bounded by the -Buenos Ayrean provinces of Tucuman and Cuyo, and by Terra Magellanica, -or Patagonia; on the west, the Southern Pacific washes its shores; and -on the south, the unconquered and desert countries of Terra Magellanica -complete its limits. - - -POLITICAL AND TERRITORIAL DIVISIONS AND GOVERNMENT. - -Chili is governed by a Spanish officer, appointed by the court of -Madrid, and holding the title of Captain General of the kingdom -of Chili, having under his orders all the inferior governors of -departments and military posts; he is likewise commander in chief of -the Chilian forces, and president of the court of royal audience of -Santiago. - -The country he governs is divided into continental and insular -partidos, or departments, over which intendants or lieutenants preside. - -The continental part, or Chili Proper, is divided into thirteen -partidos, which extend from the twenty-fourth degree to the -thirty-seventh degree of south latitude, and are named Copiapo, -Coquimbo, Quillota, Aconcagua, Melipilla, Santiago, Rancagua, -Colchagua, Maule, Itata, Chillan, Puchucay, and Huilquilemu; from the -thirty-seventh degree to the islands of Chiloe, the country is chiefly -under the power of three native tribes, the Araucanians, the Cunches, -and the Huilliches. - -Insular Chili, comprehends the archipelagoes of Chiloe, and Chonos -or Guaytecas, and the Andean part of Chili is inhabited also by -independent tribes. - - -DISCOVERY AND HISTORY. - -The origin of the native inhabitants of Chili is involved in -impenetrable obscurity. They had traditions respecting their ancestors, -which were so vague and uncertain as not to merit notice; so that -nothing can be advanced concerning the history of Chili, prior to about -the middle of the fifteenth century. - -In the year 1450, the country was occupied by fifteen independent -tribes, governed by caciques or ulmens; they were named Copiapins, -Coquimbans, Quillotans, Mapochians, Promaucians, Cures, Cauques, -Pencones, Araucanians, Cunches, Chilotes, Chiquilanians, Pehuenches, -Puelches, and Huilliches. The Peruvians were at this period governed -by the Inca Yupanqui, who having extended his empire to the borders -of their country, was ambitious to possess a territory, of which -his subjects gave a highly favourable report. He accordingly moved -southward to Atacama, and dispatched Sinchiruca, a Peruvian prince, -from thence with a large army, to the northern territories of Chili; -this general reduced the Copiapins, Coquimbans, Quillotans, and -Mapochians, but was interrupted in his career by the Promaucians, who -defeated his forces in a sanguinary battle. - -From henceforward the Peruvians were foiled in all their attempts to -proceed southward, and a fort being erected on the Rapel river, the -four first tribes became tributaries to the Incas. Though the Peruvian -form of government was never introduced into their territories, which -were still presided over by the Ulmens or caciques. - -On the arrival of the Spaniards at Cuzco, the Chilese were mostly -an agricultural nation, subsisting on the plants their labour had -brought to perfection; they had aqueducts to irrigate their fields, -and they turned up the soil with a rude sort of plough, which they -pushed forwards by a handle opposed to the breast. The Peruvian camels -were used as beasts of burden, and these people made bread, fermented -liquors, and boiled or cooked their victuals in earthen pots of their -own manufacture. - -The Chilese lived in large or small villages, and they knew and -practised the laws and rights of hereditary property; they had also -advanced so far in the knowledge of some of the useful arts, that they -were able to form hatchets and implements of copper, vases of marble, -and they worked mines of gold, silver, copper, tin and lead. - -Their religion consisted in the acknowledgement of a Supreme Being, -whom they named PILLAN, from pilli, the soul; and for whom they had -also names equivalent to the Great Being, the Thunderer, the Eternal, -the Creator, the Omnipotent, &c. - -Pillan was said to be the king of Heaven, the lord of all the inferior -spirits, who were both males and females, and whose offices consisted -in guiding the destinies of man in battle, in peace, &c.; and in -producing harvests; each person had his attendant spirit or genius, who -protected them from Guecebu the evil one. - -Being extremely independent in their notions, their ulmens or caciques -had no power to impose contributions on the people they governed, and -were merely sages or warriors who guided the tribes in council or in -the field. - -No temples were erected in Chili, the Great Being and his subordinate -agents were invoked in times of need, and on occasions of great -distress sacrifices of animals and offerings of fruits were made. As -well as their neighbours, the Peruvians, they had a tradition of a -great deluge, in which only a few persons were saved. - -They had words to express units, tens, hundreds, and a thousand, with -all the intermediate numbers, and preserved the memory of transactions -by the Pron, a bunch of threads of several colours, resembling the -Peruvian quippus. - -In treating of the Araucanians, we shall give some further account of -a people, who, though they had not attained the degree of civilization -acquired by their northern neighbours, were, nevertheless, very far -from being in a state of barbarism, and who are probably the only -American nation, surrounded by European colonies, who have hitherto -retained the same customs, manners, language and independence -which they possessed before the conquest of the New World, as the -Spaniards have scarcely made more progress in subduing them than their -predecessor, the Inca Yupanqui, did. - -From the determination of Almagro to conquer the country possessed by -the Peruvians south of Cuzco, in consequence of the reports constantly -received by himself and Pizarro, of the riches it contained, may be -dated the discovery of Chili by Europeans. - -Don Diego de Almagro de Malagon having collected a force of 570 -Spaniards, and 15,000 Peruvians, set out from Cuzco, in the year 1535, -attended by Paullu Inca, and choosing the road of the mountains, -reached the province of Copiapo in Chili, after a march in which they -had to contend with the Indians at every step; this, together with the -inclemencies of the weather, the rugged nature of the road, and the -winter overtaking them on the summit of the Andes, caused the death of -150 of the Spaniards and 10,000 of the Peruvians. - -On the arrival of the army in Copiapo, Paullu Inca obliged the natives -to deliver up all the gold in their possession, which amounting to the -value of 500,000 ducats, he presented to Almagro. - -The natives every where received the Spaniards with respect, amounting -almost to adoration, as they imagined the new comers were a divine race -sent by their gods to govern them, till after the arrival of Rodrigo -Orgonez, with a reinforcement from Peru, when two of the soldiers -committing acts of violence near the river Huasco, were slain by the -people. - -This, the first blood shed on either side, so irritated the Spaniards, -that Almagro ordered the ulmen, his brother, and twenty of the chief -people to be brought before him, when warning the natives to beware of -similar transgressions, he committed his unfortunate victims to the -flames; but the army disapproving of this cruel step, the affairs of -Almagro soon became unprosperous. - -At this juncture, Juan de Rada arrived with fresh troops from Peru, -and with the letters of the king appointing Almagro governor of the -territory south of that claimed by Pizarro. The Inca Paullu having -reinforced his army with the Peruvian garrisons in Chili, Almagro -penetrated as far south as the Rapel or Cachapoal, the boundary between -the Independent Chilians and the Peruvian colonies: at this place the -Inca endeavoured to persuade the general not to hazard an attack, as he -was convinced, from what the Peruvians had experienced for a hundred -years, that it would be unavailing; but Almagro persisted, a battle was -fought, the Promaucians were victorious, and the Spaniards, disgusted -with the event and with their general, returned to Peru, to which -Almagro marched by the coast road through the desert of Atacama, and -arrived near Cuzco, in 1538, with little loss; his subsequent history -has been already related. - -After the defeat and death of Almagro, Pizarro, wishing to extend his -conquests, ordered Pedro de Valdivia to undertake an expedition to -Chili with 200 Spaniards, a numerous body of Peruvians, women, monks -and European quadrupeds, in order to settle such districts as he might -deem proper. - -Valdivia departed from Cuzco in 1540, and pursued the mountain road, -taking the precaution of passing it in summer, on his arrival in -Copiapo, so far from receiving the hospitable reception which Almagro -met with, his army was attacked by the natives with great resolution, -but as they had been too long in subjection to the Peruvians to be -able to afford an effectual resistance, Valdivia soon reduced Copiapo, -Coquimbo, Quillota and Melipilla, and with little loss arrived in the -country of Mapocho, now called Santiago, where he laid the foundation -of the city of Santiago, on the 24th of February, 1541. - -The Promaucians assembling some forces to attack the Spaniards, -Valdivia set out from Santiago to repel them, and left the new city in -the care of Alonzo de Monroy; he was no sooner gone than the Mapochians -attacked the place, and burning the settlement, forced the inhabitants -to retire into the fort, but the commandant was relieved after a -desperate siege by the return of Valdivia, who, hastening to the town, -attacked the Mapochians and utterly defeated them. - -During this attack a woman named Inez Suarez killed several chieftains -who were prisoners in the fort, with an axe; as she perceived they were -about to take advantage of the distressed state of the Spaniards. - -The Mapochians continued at intervals to annoy the colony for six -years, after which being utterly defeated they destroyed their crops -and habitations and retired to the mountains. - -Valdivia being harassed by the natives as well as by the mutinous -conduct of his men, sent messengers to Peru for succour, and to show -the riches of the country he caused the bits, spurs and stirrups of his -two messengers to be made of gold; but they were intercepted in their -route by the Copiapins, from whom they did not escape till after a -length of time, and arriving in Peru where Vaca de Castro was governor, -who immediately dispatched succours by sea and land to Valdivia; with -this assistance he reduced some of the surrounding tribes and founded -Serena or Coquimbo, in 1544. - -In 1545 he entered into a treaty with the Promaucians, who -thenceforward became allies of the Spaniards, and in 1546 he passed -the river Maule and reduced the natives from that river to the Itata; -here he was however attacked by the Indians, and forced to retreat to -Santiago, from whence, hearing of the civil wars in Peru, he went to -that country, leaving Francisco Villagran governor in his absence. - -Valdivia acted so meritoriously under De Gasca in Peru, that after -Gonzalo Pizarro was subdued the president sent him back to Chili, with -the title of Governor, abundance of stores, and two ships filled with -soldiers. - -The Coquimbans and Copiapins having revolted, the governor sent -Francisco Aguirre against them, who succeeding in his expedition, -rebuilt the city of Coquimbo, in a more convenient place in 1549. - -Nine years from this period were passed in constant exertion by the -governor, before he could consider his power as fully settled in -the northern provinces of Chili; when having distributed the lands -and Indians among his followers, he turned his arms against the -southern portion of his government, and after a march of 250 miles, -arrived at the bay of Penco or Concepcion, where he founded the -city of Concepcion, on the 5th of October, 1550. No sooner had he -colonized this settlement, than the toqui or chief of the Araucanians, -attacked him with an army of 4000 men; but after a battle of several -hours, _Aillavalu_, the toqui, was slain, and the Araucanians forced -to retreat. In the following year, 1551, Valdivia was attacked -in Concepcion, by _Lincoyan_, the new toqui, or general of the -Araucanians, but they retreated, after displaying much valour. - -Valdivia now occupied himself in strengthening his post, and having -received succours from Peru, he marched into Arauco, where, arriving -at the river Cauten, he founded the city of Imperial, after which he -traversed the country to the territory of the Cunches, in which he -founded the town of Valdivia; and satisfied with his success, returned -to St. Jago, having fought several battles with the natives, in which -his troops were always victorious. - -He now dispatched Aguirre, with 200 men to conquer Cuyo and Tucuman, -and returning with fresh troops into Araucania, he built the city of -La Frontera; and having effected this object, retired to Concepcion, -and dispatched a messenger to Spain, with an account of his conquests, -a solicitation of the government, and of the title of Marquess del -Arauco, and he sent Francisco de Ulloa by sea, to explore the Straits -of Magellan, by which he hoped to carry on a communication with the -mother-country, independent of Peru. - -Occupied with these affairs, he did not perceive the increasing power -of the Araucanians, who having deposed Lincoyan, elected _Caupolican_, -a warlike chief, to the supreme command of their army. - -Caupolican then attacked the fort of Arauco, which the Spaniards -abandoned in the night; he also compelled them to evacuate Tucapel, -both of which he destroyed. Valdivia immediately collected what force -he could, marched against him, but sending an advanced guard of ten -horsemen to reconnoitre, they were cut off, and their heads fixed in -the road through which the Spanish army was to pass. This army arrived -in sight of the Araucanians, on the 3d of December, 1553, when a fierce -contest immediately commenced. The Araucanians were put to flight, but -in their confusion, a young chief who had been baptized and employed as -page to Valdivia, suddenly deserted the Spanish army, and brandishing -a lance, called out to his countrymen to turn and follow his example; -this so encouraged the enemy, that they immediately commenced a fresh -attack, with such success, that the Spaniards and their Promaucian -allies were cut to pieces, only two of the latter escaping. - -Valdivia retired with his chaplain to a convenient spot, and having -received absolution, prepared himself for death. He was soon taken -prisoner, and his late page, begging that he might be spared, was on -the point of obtaining his release, when an old Ulmen, indignant at the -fate of his countrymen who had fallen in the battle, put an end to the -conference, and the existence of Valdivia by a blow with his war-club. - -On the news of the defeat and death of the governor arriving at -Concepcion, Villagran was appointed to the chief command, and marching -with a force against the Araucanians, he was defeated by _Lautaro_, the -page before mentioned, and losing 700 men, was forced to retreat to -Concepcion, which place he abandoned and proceeded to St. Jago. By his -wise measures and resolute conduct, as well as by the dreadful ravages -of the small-pox which had been communicated to the Araucanians, the -Spanish possessions were once more established, but battles were -constantly fought between the natives and the settlers, which though -they generally terminated in favour of the Europeans, were the means -of their losing many settlements, and Lautaro the toqui, was slain in -1556, in an action with Villagran. - -In 1557, the viceroy of Peru sent Don Garcia Hurtado de Mendoza his son -to Chili, with a great force of cavalry, infantry and shipping. The -new governor landed on an island in the bay of Concepcion in April; -here he remained during the winter, making overtures of an amicable -nature to the Araucanians, but not receiving a determinate answer, he -landed 150 men at Monte Pinto, and erected a strong fort to command the -harbour; this place was immediately attacked by the Araucanians, under -Caupolican, when a tremendous battle ensued, in which the army of the -toqui were defeated. - -Don Garcia then proceeded into Arauco, where he fought another -desperate action, and defeating the Araucanians, marched to the -southward, through the province of the Cunches, a tribe hitherto -unsubdued. In this expedition, they discovered the Chiloe Islands, -and returning from thence, he marched through the country of the -Huilliches, and founded the town of Osorno. - -About this time, Caupolican the great toqui or general, was taken -prisoner, impaled, and shot to death with arrows, but his son was -elected to the chief command, and exasperated by the cruel death of -his father, attacked the Spanish forces under the officer who had -slain Caupolican; in this attack, the young chief was victorious, and -immediately besieged Imperial, in which he was however foiled. - -Many battles occurred in 1559, the last of which was peculiarly -favourable for the Spanish cause, all the best leaders of the -Araucanians being slain in it. - -Don Garcia now rebuilt the cities which had been destroyed; sent -Castillo to conquer Cuyo, and at last, embarked for Peru, in which -country he had been advanced to the viceregal rank. - -Villagran who had been to Spain returned to Chili, with the title -of governor, but meeting with reverses, his spirits sunk, and dying -soon after, he left his son Pedro as governor; at which period, the -Araucanians were once more getting the better of the Spaniards, who -founded the town of Castro, in Chiloe, in the year 1566. - -In 1567, the court of royal audience was established in the city of -Concepcion, their first act was to depose Quiroga, who had dispossessed -the younger Villagran in his government, and to appoint Ruiz Gamboa, to -the command of the army. - -The natives had now become exceedingly powerful under the conduct of a -Mestizo, named Alonzo Diaz, who had been raised to the rank of toqui by -the name of _Paynenauca_, and who had been joined by the Chiquillanians -and the Pehuenches. This chief fought many actions with the Spanish -troops, but was at last taken prisoner and beheaded. - -On his death, _Cayancura_ was elevated to the dignity of toqui. In his -time, the Araucanians besieged the fort of Arauco, and being defeated, -the toqui resigned his command to _Nangoniel_ his son, who was killed -in attacking another fortress. - -_Cadaguela_ was then unanimously proclaimed general, and in his time, -the English under Sir Thomas Candish landed on the coast of Chili, and -endeavoured to enter into negociations with the natives; but being -attacked by Molina, the corregidor of Santiago, they were forced to -reimbark, after losing several men. - -Several chiefs succeeded Cadaguela, each of whom were engaged in -desperate actions with the Spaniards. In 1593, Don Martin Loyola, -nephew of the celebrated founder of the order of Jesuits, having -married the daughter of Sayri Tupac, the last Inca of Peru, was -appointed governor of Chili; he was slain five years after his arrival, -on the 22d of November 1598, by _Paillamachu_ the toqui, in whose -country he had imprudently ventured with too small an escort. On this -event which had been previously planned, the whole Araucanian country, -with the Cunches and Huilliches, their allies, suddenly rose, and put -to death every Spaniard who had the misfortune to be without the forts; -the towns of Osorno, Valdivia, Villarica, Imperial, Canete, Angol, and -Arauco, were all attacked, and Conception and Chillan were burnt. - -Amid all these misfortunes, the Dutch landed in the Chiloe Islands, -plundered Chiloe, and put the Spanish garrison to the sword; but -landing in an island where the Araucanians were posted, these people -attacked them and killed twenty-three of their men, mistaking them for -Spaniards. - -All the Spanish cities above-named, were also taken by Paillamachu the -toqui, and the Spaniards were completely expelled from the territories -of the Araucanian confederacy. - -Luis Valdivia, a Jesuit, who had been employed in converting the -Chilese, finding it impracticable to prevail on the Araucanians to -listen to him, went to Spain, where he instigated the emperor to take -measures to procure a peace; and returning to Chili, in 1612, this -zealous missionary nearly effected the object he had taken so much -trouble about, and in a short time peace was about to be proclaimed -between the Spaniards and the Indians, when an unforeseen circumstance -occurred, which rendered the war more active than before. - -Battle succeeded battle, with no extraordinary result on either side, -till the Dutch made a second attempt on the islands, in which they were -repulsed as before, the natives again mistaking them for Spaniards. - -Some wars took place after this, till the arrival of Don Francisco de -Zuniga, Marquess of Baydes, who assumed the government in 1640. By -his exertions, the preliminaries of a peace were arranged and finally -settled on the 6th of January 1641, between _Lincopichion_, the Chilese -general, and the Marquess, by which the two nations mutually agreed to -suspend all hostilities, and the Araucanians, on their part, engaged to -prevent any foreign power whatever from landing in their territories. -In 1643, the Dutch made a third and last attempt to colonize this -country, by building two forts, and taking possession of Valdivia; -but being deprived of provisions by the Cunches, and hearing that a -powerful army of Spaniards and Araucanians were marching against them, -they evacuated Chili. - -The peace thus happily settled, lasted until 1655, when war again -broke out with all its former fury, being carried on by both parties -for ten years with equal spirit. At the end of this period, Meneses a -Portuguese noble, who held the reins of government, again persuaded the -turbulent natives to consent to a peace. This was more lasting than -the former, and the history of Chili presents nothing worthy of notice -till the commencement of the eighteenth century, when the inhabitants -of the islands of Chiloe revolted, but were soon quelled. The famous -war of the succession happening in Europe at this epoch created much -internal discussion in the Spanish colonies; several governors were -removed for favouring the Bourbon party, but when a prince of that -house was at last placed on the Spanish throne, the ports of Chili were -filled with French ships, and from 1707, to 1717, many persons of that -nation settled in the country. - -About this time, the Araucanians began to show some symptoms of an -inclination to break the treaty, and in 1722, they elected _Vilumilla_ -their toqui or war-chief. So actively did this chief employ himself, -that he gained to his party, nearly the whole of the Indians from Peru -to the river Biobio, causing them to agree to rise against the whites, -at a certain moment, which was to take place when they should see the -watch-fires on the mountains: accordingly on the 9th of March 1723, -these fires blazed from Copiapo to Itata, but from some reason, which -has not been related, the natives of the northern provinces did not -join, and his scheme was put into execution by the Araucanians only, -who took some places, and then made overtures of peace. - -The year 1742 was famous for the arrival of Don Josef Manso, the new -governor, who collected all the scattered colonists, and placed them in -several cities which he founded, and which are now the capitals, and -chief towns of the different provinces. - -His successors continued this line of conduct, and in 1753, several -new towns were built, and Don Domingo Rosa sent a colony to occupy the -island of Juan Fernandez, which had remained uninhabited till that -time. - -In 1770, the governor, Don Antonio Gil Gonzago, created a new war, -by endeavouring to force the Araucanians to live in towns, giving -them materials to build with, appointing workmen to assist them, and -sending a force to compel them to do so, and entering into a treaty -with the Pehuenches, he attacked them on all sides. The Pehuenches -were defeated, and instead of becoming the eternal enemies of their -conquerors, they have since that time been their most faithful allies. -The Spanish governor being thwarted by these warlike people in all his -schemes, a peace was resorted to after a dreadful battle in 1773, and -on this occasion the Araucanians insisted on being allowed to retain a -resident agent at Santiago, which was granted. - -A native of Ireland, Don Ambrosio Higgins, was appointed -captain-general of Chili, in 1787, and being still at peace with the -natives, this governor built several new towns, opened the mines, and -encouraged commerce and agriculture. - -In his government, the regular militia of Chili, amounted to 15,856 -men. The veteran troops, or royal guard, was 1976 men; and beside -these, each city has an armed force, with a local militia, the former -being kept in constant pay. - -Since the year 1792, several governors have presided over Chili, and -nothing material occurs in its history, until 1810, when a partial -revolution took place. Spain being overrun by the French armies, the -creoles of this country judged it a favourable moment to throw off -their allegiance, and accordingly, being the most numerous, they -effected their object with little trouble. Since that period, the royal -armies have subjected the kingdom, which has been thrown into fresh -convulsions by the appearance of San Martin, with a detachment from the -insurgent force of Buenos Ayres; at present the government is decidedly -Spanish, though the capital and several strong places are occupied by -the revolutionists, but very little is known concerning what particular -cities, towns and forts they hold. - - -CLIMATE, FEATURES, &c. - -The climate of Chili is probably superior to that of any other -country in Spanish America, as the air is remarkably salubrious, the -inhabitants being troubled with few contagious diseases, and the -extremes of heat and cold are not felt in continental Chili. The spring -commences in September, summer in December, autumn in March, and winter -in June. From September till March, south-east or south winds prevail, -during which time the sky is clear and serene, but the north and -north-west winds regularly occasion rain, and chiefly occur during the -remaining months. - -A singular circumstance attends the difference of climate between -the countries lying on the eastern and western sides of the Chilian -Andes; for though the winter is the rainy season of Chili, at that time -Tucuman and Cuyo enjoy their finest weather. In the northern districts -of Chili rain seldom falls; whilst in the southern parts and in the -isles it is frequent. The Chilian Andes being very high, and many of -them entering the regions of eternal snow, the lands lying in their -neighbourhood are subject to occasional frosts, and the mountains -themselves are impassable from April to November, on account of the -frequent and overwhelming snow storms. - -The want of rain in the northern provinces is supplied by abundant -dews, and fogs are common on the coasts, but they are never of long -continuance. On the whole it may be stated, that the climate of -this country is temperate, and favourable for bringing forward the -productions of its fertile soil. - -This soil yields by cultivation all the grains common to Europe, and -in the most uncultivated parts, is covered with a profuse and luxuriant -vegetation. The crops are usually from sixty to eighty for one; but -in the rich valleys, this proportion is greatly exceeded; but the -sea-coast being the least productive, the harvests there do not give -more than forty or fifty to one. - -The grains most commonly sown are maize, wheat, barley and rye. Hemp -and flax give abundant returns, but are not so much attended to. - -European fruit trees find a genial clime in Chili, and in the southern -provinces are woods of apple and quince trees, of several miles in -extent, from which fruit of excellent quality is gathered. Pears, -cherries, peaches, of which there are fourteen sorts, some weighing -sixteen ounces; oranges, lemons and citrons, melons, &c., are every -where to be seen in the fields growing without culture, and each in -their kind yielding delicious fruit. Vines grow wild in the forests, -and those which are planted give a red wine not inferior to the produce -of any European vintage. - -The olive trees thrive exceedingly, some of them reaching to a great -height, and being three feet in diameter. - -In the northern provinces the tropical fruits and plants grow in -the greatest abundance; of these the sugar cane, the cotton plant, -the banana, the pine apple, the manioc, jalap, pimento, indigo, -contrayerva, tobacco, sarsaparilla, guiacum, cassia, tamarinds, pepper, -canello, or white cinnamon, cocoa nut and date are the most common. - -Besides the plants common to the other kingdoms of America, and the -luxuriancy with which all kinds of European herbs, trees, grains and -fruits, grow in Chili, this country has a long catalogue of vegetables -peculiar to itself. - -The plains, the valleys, and the lower mountains, are covered with -beautiful trees, and with an herbage so high that it conceals the -sheep which graze in it, and 3000 species of non-descript plants were -collected by an able naturalist, who has enumerated the properties of -some of them; of these the most singular are, a large strawberry, which -is cultivated for the table, and also grows wild; the madi yielding -a fine oil; relbun, a species of madder; panke, which gives a good -black dye; the cachan-lahuen, a balsam equal to that of Peru; and the -viravira, useful in intermittent fevers. Various kinds of creeping -plants, whose flowers afford the most beautiful decorations to the -gardens and forests; and the puya, whose bark is used for the same -purposes as cork. - -Ninety-seven kinds of trees are found in the Chilian forests, of -which thirteen only shed their leaves; so that an everlasting verdure -presents itself; of those resembling the European, the cypress, pine, -oak, laurel and cedar, are varieties of the same kinds. The other most -curious ones are the theige or Chili willow, which yields a great -quantity of manna; the floripondio, whose flowers diffuse so great -a fragrance that one is sufficient to perfume a garden; the Chilian -orange, whose wood is esteemed by turners, on account of its fine -yellow colour; the boighe, or white cinnamon, resembling the cinnamon -of Ceylon, and esteemed a sacred tree by the Araucanians, who always -present a branch of it to the embassadors, on concluding a peace. The -luma, a myrtle which grows to the height of forty feet, and whose trunk -affords the best wood for the coachmakers of Peru; the quillia, from -whose bark a soap is manufactured; the palma Chilensis, or Chilian -cocoa nut, whose fruit, though resembling that of the tropic nut, is -not larger than an apple; the gevuin, which is a sort of walnut tree, -and the pihuen, a sort of fir or pine, which is the most beautiful tree -in Chili. Its trunk is generally eighty feet in height, and eight in -girth; the limbs which branch from it begin at half its height, and -leave it alternately by fours, decreasing in length as they approach -the top. The fruit, like that of the pine, is very large, and has two -kernels, which in taste nearly resembles the chestnut; a gum, used as -frankincense, exudes from the bark; and its timber is highly useful. - -Chili is as singular in its landscape as any, and perhaps more so -than most other parts of America, as on the east it is shut out from -La Plata by the Andes, which, rising to an enormous height, has its -surface covered with pinnacles, which are in general volcanic. This -Cordillera scarcely ever depresses itself in its course through the -country, till it approaches Peru; and it seems probable that it -attains a greater elevation in this kingdom than in Quito; no actual -measurement has however been made of its highest summits, though -they are well known by name. The Chilian Andes are about 120 miles -in breadth, taking a direction from the Archipelago of Chonos to -the frontiers of Tucuman, and consisting of an uninterrupted chain -of ridges, constantly losing themselves in the snowy regions of the -air; their sides are interspersed with fruitful valleys and dreadful -precipices, and give birth to rivers, exhibiting the most beautiful and -the most terrific features of nature. - -The roads leading from Chili to Tucuman and Cuyo are not more than -eight or nine in number, of which that leading from Aconcagua to -Cuyo is the best. It is bordered on one side by the deep beds of the -Chile and the Mendoza rivers; on the other by lofty and impracticable -precipices; and is so narrow that in many places the rider is obliged -to descend from his mule and proceed on foot; nor does a year ever pass -without some of those animals being precipitated into the thundering -streams below. - -The precipices which accompany this route occasionally open and display -beautiful and fertile plains. In these places are seen the tambos of -the Incas, only one of which has been destroyed. This road requires -eight days to pass in good weather, but in winter it is totally -impracticable. That portion of the Andes between the 24 deg. and 33 -deg. south latitude is wholly desert, and the remainder, as far as the -45 deg., is inhabited by the Chiquillanes, Pehuenches, Puelches, and -Huilliches, tribes who are in amity with the Araucanians. - -The Chilian Andes form three parallel ridges, the centre being the most -elevated, and flanked by the others at 20 or 30 miles distance, and -they are connected by transversal branches. - -The highest mountains of this chain are the _Manflos_, in 28 deg. 45' -south latitude, the _Tupungato_, in 33 deg. 24', the _Descabezado_, in -35 deg., the _Blanquillo_, in 35 deg. 4', the _Longavi_, in 35 deg. -30', the _Chillan_, in 36 deg., and the immense _Corcobado_, in 43 deg.; -and it is said that all of these are more than 20,000 feet above the -level of the sea, the lowest part of the chain being in the province of -Copiapo. - -This Cordillera has no fewer than fourteen volcanoes, in a constant -state of eruption, and a much greater number discharging only smoke. -Fortunately for the inhabitants, these are, with the exception of two, -all situated on the very ridge of the Andes, and thus cover only a -small space in their immediate vicinity with the devastating effects of -the heated substances which are thrown from them. The greatest eruption -ever known in this country was on the 3d of December 1760, when the -volcano _Peteroa_ burst forth by a new crater, and rent asunder a -mountain in its vicinity. - -It formed a lake by stopping up the passage of a considerable river, -and was heard throughout the whole country. - -The two volcanoes which are not on the ridge of the Andes, are that -at the mouth of the river Rapel, which is inconsiderable, and ejects -only vapour; and that of _Villarica_, near a lake of the same name in -Arauco. - -Villarica is so high, that its summit is covered with snow, and may -be seen at 150 miles distance. Its base, which is fourteen miles in -circuit, is covered with thick forests, and many rivers flow from it; -and though in a constant state of activity, its eruptions are never -very violent. Although the Chilese seldom suffer from the obvious -effects of these volcanoes, their country is subjected to earthquakes, -caused, in all probability, by the struggle in the bosom of the earth -amid the combustible materials which are striving to vent themselves. - -These earthquakes generally occur three or four times a year, but they -are seldom of material consequence, and are not dreaded as in Peru and -Caraccas. Since the arrival of the Spaniards only five violent shocks -have occurred, in 1520, 1647; 1657, in 1730, when the sea rose over the -walls of Concepcion, and in 1751, when that city was destroyed by the -ocean; but only seven persons perished who were invalids and unable to -move. These shocks are usually preceded by a noise under ground, which -gives sufficient warning to the people to leave their houses, and as -the earth rarely opens, few buildings are overthrown; and the towns -are erected with such broad streets, and with such spacious courts and -gardens behind the houses, that even should these fall, the people are -safe. - -_Rivers._--Chili possesses more than 120 rivers, but as the distance -from the Andes to the sea, is in no instance more than 300 miles, -none of them are very large: they are however of great importance to -the country, by affording the means of irrigating the fields, and of -internal navigation. - -The finest rivers are the _Maule_, the _Cauten_, the _Tolten_, -_Valdivia_, _Chaivin_, _Rio Bueno_, and the _Sinfondo_. - -The only lake of importance is that of _Villarica_, or _Laquen_, -which is 72 miles in circumference. Sheets of fresh and salt water -are common throughout Chili. In the marshes of the maritime ports are -the Lakes _Bucalemu_, _Caguil_, and _Bogerecu_, which are salt, and -from twelve to twenty miles in length. Salt springs are common in -Coquimbo and Copiapo, and in the latter province is the _Rio Salado_, -which, rising in the Andes, runs into the Pacific, and leaves a fine -crystallized salt on its banks, which is so pure as not to need any -preparation for use. - -Mineral springs and thermal waters also are common. - -_Mines._--The mineral kingdom is not less rich in Chili than the -vegetable one is. It produces all the known semi-metals; they are, -however, neglected by the Spaniards, with the exception of mercury, -so necessary for the refining of gold and silver: but the government -having forbidden the two richest mines of quicksilver to be worked, -that substance is only procured in a small quantity. - -Lead is found in all the silver mines, and in various parts it is -worked for its own value, in others on account of the silver it -always contains. In the provinces of Copiapo, Coquimbo, Aconcagua and -Huilquilemu are rich iron mines, and the sands of the rivers and sea -yield this metal abundantly. - -Tin is also plentiful in the sandy mountains; and mines of copper are -scattered over the whole country, the richest being between the 24 deg. -and 36 deg. south latitude; the ore usually containing gold. The copper -mines of Coquimbo and Copiapo have been long known; they are said to -amount to more than 1000, all of which are in constant work; and the -richest mine of this metal was that of _Payen_, which the Spaniards were -forced to abandon by the natives; lumps of pure copper were found in it, -weighing from fifty to one hundred pounds; and it is said that the mine -at _Curico_, recently discovered, is equally rich, its ore consisting -of gold and copper in equal proportions, and having an uncommonly -brilliant and beautiful appearance. - -The silver mines are usually discovered in the highest and coldest -parts of the mountain-country, on which account it has been found -necessary to abandon several very rich veins. The most celebrated are -those of _Coquimbo_, _Copiapo_, _Aconcagua_ and _Santiago_. In these -the metal is found pure, as well as in ores mineralized with arsenic -and sulphur. - -_Uspallata_, in the 33 deg. south latitude, is the most productive. It -is situated eight leagues north-west of Mendoza in Cuyo, and yields -from forty to sixty marks per quintal. Gold is found, not only in -the silver, copper and lead ores, but there is hardly a mountain in -the kingdom which does not contain some of this precious metal; and -it is found in the plains, and in the beds of the rivers. The most -important mines and washings of gold in Chili being at _Copiapo_, -_Huasco_, _Coquimbo_, _Petorca_, ten leagues south of Chuapa, _Ligua_, -near Quillota, _Tiltil_, _Llaoin_, _Putaendo_, _Yapel_, or _Villa de -Cuscus_, _Caen_, _Alhue_, _Chibato_ and _Huillipatagua_, and all but -the three last have been wrought ever since the conquest. - -The quantity of gold and silver produced annually in Chili amounts, -excluding that which is sent clandestinely out of the country, to the -value of 357,000_l._ sterling annually; and there were 721,000 piastres -of gold, and 146,000 of silver, coined at the mint of Santiago in 1790: -but since that period the plain of Uspallata has yielded a greater -proportion of silver. The contraband silver exported from Chili is as -three to two on that which pays the fifth; the annual average of the -fine gold and silver which receives the royal stamp in Chili being -1,737,380 piastres, or 376,432_l._ sterling, of which 10,000 marcs are -gold, and 29,700 silver: but the administration consumes the revenue -of Chili, which, therefore, never remitted any sum to the royal coffers. - -_Population._--The population of this extensive country is composed -of Europeans, creoles, Indians, mestizoes and negroes; of these the -creoles are by far the most numerous in the Spanish provinces. The -country is in general thinly inhabited; the whites living in towns, and -the independent Indians roaming in their native woods and mountains, -it is not probable that the Spanish part contains more than 800,000 -inhabitants including all the classes. The creoles are a well-made, -brave and industrious race, and have a frankness and vivacity peculiar -to themselves; being in general possessed of good talents, but which -are not cultivated, owing to the want of proper places of education. - -The other classes are much the same as in other parts of Spanish -America; and the peasantry, though of European origin, dress in the -Araucanian manner; and, dispersed over an extensive country, are -perfectly free from restraint; they therefore lead contented and happy -lives. - -The general language is Spanish, excepting on the borders of Arauco, -where the ancient dialect, the _Chili-dugu_, or Chilese tongue, is -cultivated by all classes. The females of Chili are as luxurious -in their dress and equipages as those of Lima: but are noted for -their kindness and hospitality towards strangers; and this virtue is -practised in its greatest extent by all the inhabitants of the Spanish -portion. In short the Chilians appear to be the most frank, courteous -and generous people of Spanish America. - -_Animals._--The animal kingdom is not so various as the vegetable -in this country; the indigenous species amounting only to about -thirty-six; of these the vicuna, resembling the animal of the same -name in Peru, is a sort of camel, which lives in the highest regions -of the Andes; its body is the size of a large goat with a long neck, -round head, small straight ears and high legs. Its coat is of a -fine dirty rose-coloured wool, which will take any dye, and is used -for manufacturing a variety of cloths; they live in flocks on the -highest heaths of the Andes, and are so timid, that they are taken by -stretching a line across their path, to which pieces of cloth are tied, -these fluttering in the wind terrify the vicunas, who stand still and -suffer themselves to be caught. This animal has never been domesticated -in Chili, but is chiefly sought after for its wool and flesh, the -latter being esteemed equal to veal. - -The Chilihueques, or Araucanian sheep, which resemble the European -sheep, were employed as beasts of burden by the natives, who now use -them for the sake of their fine wool, and they are a variety of the -former. - -The guanuco is another species of the American camel, exceeding the -last in size; its length from the nose to the tail being about seven -feet, and its height in front four feet three inches; many of them are -however much taller; the body is covered with long reddish hair on the -back and whitish under the belly; its head is round, the nose pointed -and black, the tail short and turned up, and the ears straight. They -live during the summer in the mountains, but quit them on the approach -of winter for the plains in which they appear in herds of two or three -hundred. They are hunted by the Chilians, whose horses are unable to -keep pace with them, but the young being more feeble are generally -taken. - -The Indians, who are excellent horsemen, sometimes get near enough to -throw the laqui between their legs, and thus take them alive. This -laqui is a strip of leather five or six feet long, to each end of which -is fastened a stone of two pounds weight, the huntsman holding one of -these in his hand, and whirling the other, slings the string at the -animal in so dexterous a manner that the stones form a tight knot round -his legs. They have also longer strips of leather with a running noose -at the end, which they carry coiled on their saddles, one end being -made fast to them, and thrown with so sure an aim that the noose falls -over the animal's head and neck, the rider then turning round, puts -his horse into a full gallop, and such is the irresistible force with -which he moves, that the game is compelled to follow. In this manner -the Peons of Buenos Ayres, who are the natives of Paraguay that take -charge of the immense herds of cattle roaming on the plains, catch -them when they have occasion for their hide or carcass. The guanuco is -naturally gentle, and is soon domesticated; it is used for the same -purposes as the llamas and alpacos of Peru, which are only varieties -of this animal. They resemble the camel in several particulars, having -reservoirs in their stomachs for water, they can go for a long while -without food, are very docile, kneel in order to discharge or receive -their burdens, and have hoofs so firm as not to require shoeing, with -such thick skins that they are rarely galled. Their step is slow but -sure, even in the steepest parts of the mountains, and they pass the -greater part of the night in ruminating, when they sleep folding their -legs under them. - -The females produce one young one at a time, and are five or six -months in gestation. Their cry is like that of a horse, and to defend -themselves they eject their saliva. The period of existence of these -singular animals is about thirty years. - -Chilihueques were much used as beasts of burden before the introduction -of mules, but these animals have now nearly superseded them, from their -greater strength. The llama and alpaco, are not known in the Chilian -Andes, and the three species we have described, though evidently of the -same genus, never copulate with each other, and are seldom observed in -the same place. - -The puda is a kind of wild goat of the size of a half grown kid, with -brown hair, the male having small horns; these creatures come down in -very numerous flocks from the mountains as soon as winter approaches, -in order to feed in the plains; they are then killed in great numbers -by the inhabitants for food, and caught for domestication, to which -state they are very easily brought, and are said to be very fond of -playing with children. - -The guemul inhabits the most inaccessible parts of the Andes. It -resembles the horse in some particulars and the ass in others, but is -not the produce of either, and is most probably another variety of the -Peruvian camel. - -The vizcacha is an animal resembling the rabbit and the fox. It is -larger than the latter, and its fur being very fine and soft, is used -for the manufacture of hats. The cuy, is another species of rabbit, -but much smaller, not exceeding the size of the field mouse, and it is -occasionally domesticated. - -The armadillo, of which there are three kinds, in Chili, the four -banded, the eight banded, and the eleven banded; the eight banded being -common in the valleys of the Andes, and are of various sizes, from -six to thirteen inches in length, covered with a thick bony defensive -armour which is so minutely jointed that they can roll themselves up as -the English hedge-hog does. The armadilloes are elegant and inoffensive -little animals. - -The degu, is a kind of dormouse; and the maulin wood-mouse is exactly -like a mouse, but so large that it resists the attacks of the dogs; -and there are several other kinds of mice peculiar to the country, all -of which differ in their habits, and in other points from the European -animals of the same name. - -The pagi, or Chilian puma, is nearly the same as the puma, or cougouar -of La Plata, and the mitzli of Mexico; it is named the American lion -by the Spaniards, but it resembles that creature only in its shape and -roar, having no mane. - -The hair on the upper part of the body is ash-coloured with yellow -spots, and very long, and the belly is dusky white. Its length, from -the nose to the root of the tail, is about five feet; and its height, -from the sole of the foot to the shoulder, near two feet three inches. -The ears are short and pointed, the eyes large, the mouth wide and -deep, and well furnished with sharp teeth; the paws have each five -toes, armed with very strong claws, and the tail is upwards of two feet -long. - -The female is less than the male, of a paler colour, carries her young -three months, and brings forth two cubs at a time. It inhabits the -thickest forests and the most inaccessible mountains, from whence it -issues to attack the domestic animals roaming in the plains, preferring -the flesh of the horse to any other. Its mode of seizing its prey -is similar to that of the tiger; and it is not uncommon for this -formidable creature to carry off two horses at a time, as they are -often linked together in the pasture. It kills one, and dragging it -along obliges the other to follow by lashing it with its tail. - -The pagi is said never to attack man unless provoked, but it has been -proved, by several intelligent travellers, that the lions and tigers of -America are sometimes as ferocious and destructive as those of Africa. - -The guigna, and the colocola, are two species of wild cats which -inhabit the woods. - -The culpeu is a large fox resembling the European wolf. It is said -always to approach man, and stopping at a short distance, looks at -him very attentively for some time, and then retires. Owing to this -singular propensity the animal is frequently shot; and the race is much -thinned. - -The American, or Brazilian porcupine is an inhabitant of the Chilian -forests, in which there are several animals resembling the weasel, -ferret, martin, &c. - -Many species of amphibious creatures are contained in the rivers of -Chili, of which the coypu, is a water rat, as large as and resembling -the otter in its habits and form; and the guillino is a species of the -castor, or beaver. - -The shores of Chili throng with marine animals. The sea lion, the sea -wolf, the chinchimen, or sea cat, a very formidable kind of otter, -the lame, or elephant seal, which is frequently twenty-two feet in -length and a proportionate bulk; and many other kinds are killed by the -natives for the sake of the oil they afford. - -In Arauco the lakes are said to contain a species of hippopotamus, as -large as a horse; and the European quadrupeds which have been imported -by the Spaniards, thrive exceedingly. Chili has also animals similar to -the hare and the fox, but peculiar to itself. - -Horses, asses, mules, cattle, sheep, goats, swine, dogs, cats and even -mice have been introduced into Chili by the Europeans, and the first -cat was given to Almagro by Montenegro, who received six hundred pieces -of silver for it. - -The horses of Chili are fine, strong, and very active. Those bred in -the plains are the fleetest, whilst those in the mountains are the best -for draught. These noble animals are necessary to the very existence of -the Chilians, as they never perform any journey on foot, and would be -unable to catch their cattle without them. - -Chilian asses are stronger and taller than the European asses, from -which they are derived; they exist chiefly in a wild state, and are -hunted for their skins. - -The cattle are also large, excepting near the coasts, where the herbage -is not so luxuriant; and so numerous are these useful beasts, that many -persons have 12,000 head on their estates. They require no care, and -enough are usually killed at Christmas to serve for salt provision for -the rest of the year, and for exportation. - -Sheep, in this country, are equal to those of Spain, and are chiefly -kept for the sake of their wool only. - -Goats have multiplied astonishingly, and are hunted, in the mountains, -for their skins. - -The birds of Chili are as numerous as in Mexico, the known species -inhabiting the land amounting to 135, and the aquatic to far more. - -Parrots, swans, flamingoes, whose beautiful feathers are prized by the -Indians for head dresses; wild geese, ducks, pigeons, turtle-doves, -plovers, curlews, divers, herons, kites, falcons, blackbirds, crows, -woodpeckers, partridges and European domestic fowls are common. - -An eagle named calquin, measures ten feet and a half from the extremity -of one wing, when extended, to that of the other. - -The penguin inhabits the southern shores and islands; the alcatraz or -brown pelican is as large as a turkey-cock, and may be constantly seen -on the rocks and islets in the sea. - -Humming-birds are very common in the fields and gardens; of which, -three species, the little, the blue-headed, and the crested, are -peculiar to Chili. Thrushes and other birds of song are very plentiful, -and enliven the dreary woods with their varied notes. - -The jacana is a kind of water-hen, about the size of a magpie, with a -spur on each wing. - -The piuquen or bustard, is larger than that of Europe, and nearly -white, inhabiting the great plains; this bird lays two eggs larger than -those of a goose, and is easily tamed. - -The cheuque, or American ostrich, is sometimes seen in the plains of -Chili, but chiefly inhabits that part of Araucania on the east of the -Andes and the valleys of those mountains, and exactly resembles the -cassowary of La Plata. - -Its stature is equal to that of a man, its neck being two feet eight -inches long, with legs of the same height; the plumage of the back and -wing is generally dark grey, the other parts of the body being white, -though some are seen all white, and others all black; and it has not -the callous substance on its wings or breast as the African ostrich -has, but it is equally voracious. - -The note of this bird is a shrill whistle, and the female lays from -forty to sixty eggs, in a careless manner, on the ground at a time; -they are good eating, and as large as those of the eastern ostrich. - -The feathers are very beautiful, and by their great quantity on the -wings, hinder the bird from rising; its motion is a quick run, in -which it is so much assisted by the wings, which are eight feet in -length, that it outstrips the fleetest horse. The Indians make plumes, -parasols, and many beautiful ornaments of the feathers, which are -highly valued. - -There are also several kinds of owls, falcons, and vultures peculiar -to this country, but the largest, as well as the most extraordinary of -the winged tribe, is the condor or manque; its wings when extended, -measuring from fourteen to sixteen feet; its body is covered with black -feathers, excepting the back, which is white, the neck is encircled -with a white ruff, projecting an inch beyond the other feathers, and -the head is covered with short thin hairs; the irides of the eyes are -of a reddish brown, and the pupils black. The beak is four inches long, -very broad and crooked, white towards the point, and black at the -base. The legs are short, and the feet are furnished with four strong -toes, the hindmost being two inches long, with one joint and a black -nail an inch in length; the middle toe has three joints, is six inches -long, and has a crooked whitish nail of two inches; the other toes are -shorter, and each armed with very strong talons. The general figure of -the bird is that of an eagle, but the female is smaller than the male, -has no ruff, but only a small tuft at the back of the neck, and builds -her nest on the highest cliffs, laying two white eggs larger than a -turkey's. - -These immense eagles frequently carry off sheep and goats, and even -calves, when they are separated from the cows. When they attack a calf, -it generally happens, that several condors pounce upon it at once, tear -out its eyes, and rend it in pieces. The peasants have several methods -of taking and killing this bird, which possesses such strength, that it -is rarely shot, owing to the great velocity with which it ascends into -the higher regions of the air. - -The coasts of Chili and its rivers abound with many kinds of shell-fish -common to the American seas, and others which are found on these -shores alone. Oysters, craw-fish, crabs, lobsters, &c., are in great -abundance, and the bays, harbours, and creeks swarm with fish, no less -than seventy-six different species having been enumerated; and all the -rivers beyond the thirty-fourth degree of south latitude are remarkable -for containing fine trout, &c. - -Insects are as numerous as the former; the lanthorn fly, glow-worms, -&c., illuminating the forest and plains during the dark nights, and the -fields and gardens glittering in the day-time with thousands of the -most beautiful butterflies. The wild bees produce so much wax, that the -churches are supplied with tapers from the collections of that useful -substance made in the woods. - -Mosquitoes, gnats, and venomous flies are not known in Chili; but a -great spider is found near Santiago, whose body is as large as a hen's -egg, and covered with soft brown hair, the legs are long and large, -and armed with great fangs; though it is innoxious and lives under -ground. Scorpions of a small size are also found in the Lower Andes and -on the shores of the rivers, but they are said not to be dangerous. -The reptiles of Chili consist only of sea and fresh water turtles, -two kinds of frogs, the land and water toad, aquatic and terrestrial -lizards, and one kind of serpent, but none of them are venomous. - -_Commerce._--The external trading relations of this country are carried -on by the straights of Magellan with Europe, and by the Pacific with -Peru, particularly with the port of Callao; with Peru it trades in -fruits, preserves, grain, vegetable productions and copper, to the -annual amount of 700,000 piastres, from which traffic it derives a net -profit of 200,000 piastres. - -From Europe it receives linens, woollens, hats, steel, mercury, and -most articles of European manufactures, in return for which Chili sends -gold, silver, copper, vicuna wool and hides; and this trade is said to -amount annually to 1,000,000 of piastres. - -Between La Plata and Chili there is an internal traffic in favour of -the former for Paraguay tea, &c. But the internal commerce of the -Chilian provinces is trifling. The inhabitants make ponchos, a sort -of loose cloak universally worn, and principally manufactured by the -Indians, stockings, carpets, blankets, saddles, hats, cloths, &c., -which are chiefly used by the peasantry, the richer class employing -European goods. These with grain, wine, brandy and leather, form the -chief articles of home consumption and trade. On the whole the present -state of commerce in Chili is not very flourishing, owing to the few -inhabitants in proportion to the extent of the country. - -A late traveller has given for the united exportation and importation -of Peru and Chili, the following average, viz. for the importation -11,500,000 piastres: for the exportation in agricultural produce -4,000,000 of piastres, and for the exportation of gold and silver -8,000,000; or 2,491,670_l._ sterling for the importations, and -2,600,000_l._ sterling for the exports, leaving a clear profit of -108,330_l._ - -_Capital._--The metropolis of Chili is the city of SANTIAGO, founded -by Pedro de Valdivia, in 1541, in an extensive valley inclosed on the -east by the Andes; on the west by the hills of Prado and Poanque; on -the north by the river Colina, and on the south by the Mapocho or -Tepocalma, which flows on the northern side of the city. It was first -called Nueva Estremadura, but soon changed its name to that which -it now bears, and its situation is the most delightful that can be -imagined, in the midst of a fertile and abundant country, and in a -serene and temperate climate. - -Santiago stands fifty-five miles from its port of Valparaiso, in 33 deg. -26' south latitude, and 70 deg. 44' west longitude. Its population is -supposed to exceed 36,000 souls, many of whom are people of noble -descent, and whose families enjoy exalted stations in the colonies. -They are in general robust, well made, and active; the women are -handsome, elegant in their manner, and graceful in their conversation. -More than one half are creoles, and in the other moiety, the Indians -bear the largest proportion. - -The streets are very wide, paved, and built in straight lines forming -small squares at intervals, each house having its garden, and though -they are built low, yet they are in general convenient and well -finished. The river is conveyed by small canals into the gardens, and -the chief square, which is in the centre of the town, has a magnificent -fountain. This square contains the palace of the captain-general, the -court of the Royal Audience, the town-hall, the prison, the bishop's -palace and the cathedral. - -The suburbs are separated from the city by the river, over which a -fine stone bridge is thrown, and are bounded by a hill, from the top -of which the whole plain is descried. Besides the cathedral there are -four parish churches, nine monasteries, four colleges, an university, -several chapels, seven nunneries, a house for orphans, an hospital, -and many other public buildings; the cathedral was planned and -commenced by two English architects, but finished by Indians whom they -had taught. It is a fine building, and is 384 feet in length. The mint -is also a fine stone structure, and was built by an artist from Rome. - -The governor of Chili and the bishop reside in Santiago, which being -also the seat of the royal mint, and of all the public offices, renders -it a place of great wealth and gaiety. - -It is frequently subject to earthquakes, which are however seldom very -destructive. The Araucanians destroyed Santiago in 1602, but they have -not disturbed its tranquillity of late, having been driven by the -increasing white population of Chili to the more mountainous regions. - -Santiago is the see of the bishop of Chili, primate of the kingdom, -whose revenues are very considerable; this bishopric was erected by -Paul IV. in 1561, its immediate jurisdiction extends over all the -provinces of Peru, from the river Maule. - -The capital being the centre of all the internal traffic, and having -rich mines in its neighbourhood, contains more shops than any other -Chilian town; but these shops are confined to a particular quarter of -the city, and are stored with every kind of goods. It is asserted, that -the population and commerce of Santiago and its port are increasing -very rapidly, owing to the number of vessels trafficking in the -Pacific, and by late writers this population is made to amount to -between 40 and 50,000. - - -CONTINENTAL PROVINCES OF CHILI. - -Spanish Chili, or that part of the country which is colonized by -Europeans, lies between the 24 deg. and 36 deg. 10' south latitude, and -is divided into thirteen, or according to some accounts into fifteen -partidos, or departments. - -These having been already named, we shall give a slight sketch of each, -with its capital and chief towns. - -The first in proceeding from the north, southwards, is the partido, or-- - - -_PROVINCE OF COPIAPO_, - -Which is bounded on the north by the deserts of Atacama, on the east by -the Andes, on the west by the Pacific, and on the south by Coquimbo; -its extent being about 100 leagues from north to south. - -This province is celebrated for its mines of gold and copper; it also -furnishes fossil salt, sulphur and lapis lazuli. - -The great _Volcano del Copiapo_ is on its south-east boundary, and -it contains the rivers _Salado_, _Copiapo_, _Castagno_, _Totoral_, -_Quebradaponda_, _Guasco_ and _Chollai_. Copiapo is seldom subject to -earthquakes, and little or no rain falls in it, the want of which is -supplied by heavy dews, and the many streams with which it abounds; no -part of Chili is richer in minerals than this, and turquoises and other -gems are also found in it. - -The capital is _Copiapo_, on the river of the same name, and which has -a port at the mouth of the Copiapo, which is the best on the coast. -The city itself is twelve leagues from the sea, the houses being -irregularly built, and containing about 400 families, in 26 deg. 50' -south latitude, and 70 deg. 18' west longitude. - -At the mouth of the _Guasco_ river is also a port of the same name, in -27 deg. 20' south latitude, but it is a mere village, as is the case with -most of the other towns of Copiapo. - - -_PROVINCE OF COQUIMBO._ - -The second partido is that named Coquimbo; it is bounded on the north -by Copiapo, east by the Andes, on the west by the Pacific, south-east -by Aconcagua, and south-west by Quillota. It is forty-five leagues in -length, and forty in breadth. - -This country is similar to Copiapo; it also is extremely rich in -gold, copper and iron, and produces wine, olives, and every kind of -European fruit, as well as several tropical plants. The rivers are -the _Coquimbo_, _Tongoi_, _Chuapa_ and _Limari_; and the volcanoes -_Coquimbo_ and _Limari_ are on its western frontier. - -The climate is mild, and the air pure and healthy. The great copper -mine of Coquimbo, is situated on the Cerro-verde, a hill which rises -from the plain in a conical form, and serves for a land-mark to the -port. - -The capital is _La Serena_, or _Coquimbo_, which is pleasantly situated -on the river of the same name, in 29 deg. 52' south latitude, and 71 deg. -19' west longitude. It was the second town built by Valdivia, in 1544, -and stands about a mile from the sea, commanding a fine prospect of -the ocean, the river and the country, which presents a landscape of -the most lively appearance. This city is large but not very populous, -the families who inhabit it amounting to only 4 or 500, consisting of -Spaniards, creoles, mestizoes, and a few Indians. - -The streets are wide, straight, and intersect each other at right -angles, so as to form squares and spaces for gardens; every house -having its garden, which are well filled with fruit trees and esculent -vegetables. Besides the parochial church, there are three convents, -a town-house, and a college which formerly belonged to the Jesuits. -Its port is also called Coquimbo, and is at the mouth of the river, -two leagues from the city; here, and at _Tongoi_, which is twenty-two -miles to the south, in 30 deg. 17' south latitude, and is a small harbour -formed by the estuary of the Rio Tongoi, vessels load for Peru with -copper, hides, tallow, fruit, &c. The bay of Coquimbo is the only good -one on its coast; ships lie very safely in it, and are defended from -all winds by several islands which are near it. Coquimbo has been taken -several times by English cruizers. - - -_PROVINCE OF QUILLOTA._ - -This partido is bounded on the north by Coquimbo, south by Aconcagua -and Melipilla, south-east by Santiago, west by the ocean, and -north-east by the Andes. Its length from north to south is twenty-five -leagues, and its width from east to west twenty-one. - -The climate is mild, and the inhabitants cultivate grain of all -kinds, vines and fruits, and feed immense herds of cattle. Gold and -copper-mines are extremely numerous, and the natives manufacture rope, -cords and thread; and these with soap and copper, constitute their -principal articles for trade; the number of inhabitants is said to be -about 14,000. - -The rivers of Quillota are the _Limache_, the _Aconcagua_, the -_Longotoma_, the _Chuapa_, and the _Ligua_. Its harbours are El Papudo, -Quintero, La Herradura, Concon, La Ligua and Valparaiso. - -This district contains the city of Quillota, and the towns of -Valparaiso, Plaza, Plazilla, Ingenio, Casa-Blanca, and Petorca. - -The capital, _Quillota_, or _St. Martin de la Concha_, is situated in -32 deg. 50' south latitude, and 71 deg. 18' west longitude, in a fine -valley on the banks of the river Aconcagua. It has a parish church, three -conventual churches and a college formerly belonging to the Jesuits, -but is not a place of much note; the towns of Valparaiso and Petorca -drawing away most of the settlers. - -_Valparaiso_ is situated in 33 deg. south latitude, and 71 deg. 38' west -longitude, 225 miles north of Concepcion, and sixty north-west of -Santiago; and was formerly a very small village, with a few warehouses, -which the merchants of the metropolis erected for their goods, in -order to ship them for Callao. Its only residents were the servants who -had charge of the merchandize, but in process of time, the excellence -of the harbour drew many foreign vessels to it, and the merchants -built themselves houses, since which it has gradually increased, and -is now large and populous. Its situation is inconvenient for the -purposes of building, as it stands at the foot of a mountain, so near -to its cliffs, that many houses are erected in the breaches and on the -acclivities. - -Valparaiso has a parish church, a convent of Franciscans, and one of -Augustins, but very few monks, and the churches of the convents are -small and badly built. It is inhabited chiefly by whites, mestizoes and -mulattoes who are engaged in the trade carried on with Peru and Europe; -and the governor of this city is nominated by the king, being dependent -only on the captain-general of Chili. - -The ships from Peru all touch here, and take in wheat, tallow, Cordovan -leather, cordage and dried fruits: many of these vessels making three -trips to Lima during the summer, which lasts from November until June. -Valparaiso is well supplied with provisions from Santiago and Quillota, -and there is such abundance of game in its vicinity, that the markets -are always well stocked with it; the partridges are so numerous in -March, and three or four months after, that the muleteers knock them -down with sticks without going out of the road. This circumstance is -by no means singular, as it is observed, throughout America, that the -birds of this species are remarkably stupid, and suffer themselves to -be easily taken. The rivers of the country around Valparaiso, as well -as the coasts, are very indifferently stocked with fish, which is not -so plentiful in the northern as in the southern districts of Chili. - -The harbour is every where free from rocks and shoals, except to the -north-east, where there is a rock within a cable's length of the shore, -and this is dangerous, as it never appears above water. - -When the north winds set in, which usually happens towards the end of -summer, they blow directly into the bay, and causing a very high sea, -render it necessary for vessels to have good hold with their anchors -towards the north-north-east, as they are, otherwise, liable to be -driven on shore. Three miles from this port is a pleasantly situated -and flourishing little town named _Almendral_. - -The last town of importance in Quillota is _Petorca_, between the -rivers Longotoma and Qualimari, in 31 deg. 45' south latitude and 76 deg. -50' west longitude, which is very populous, on account of the number of -miners who resort to work in the mines of its neighbourhood; but it is -said, that of late the gold has been found to be so much alloyed with -silver and other metals, that the works are not in so flourishing a -condition as they were, though it has been one of the most productive -undertakings in the kingdom. In the country around this town, which -is near the Andes, the sides of the mountains produce palm trees of -very large size, and the small cocoa not is found amongst them. The -merino sheep bred here, yield a wool from which excellent saddles, -much esteemed in Peru, are made; and which form an extensive branch of -Chilian commerce. - - -_THE PROVINCE OF ACONCAGUA_ - -Is bounded on the north by Quillota, east by the Andes, west by -Quillota, and south by Santiago. It is about the same extent as -Quillota, and is a level and well watered district, producing a great -quantity of grain and fruits. In the mountains which bound, and may be -said to belong to it, are the famous silver mines of _Uspallata_, with -several of copper. - -Its chief rivers are the _Longotoma_, the _Ligua_, the _Chile_, and the -_Aconcagua_; the latter of which is a very fine stream which waters, -in its progress to the sea, from the Andes, the great valleys of the -province and those of Curimon, Quillota, and Concon, forming numerous -branches as it passes them. It enters the ocean in 33 deg. south latitude. -In this district is the high road leading to St. Juan de la Frontera, -in Cuyo, by which the treasure and commodities are carried to Buenos -Ayres. It is traversed, by the people employed in this traffic, only -from November to April and May, the tambos and the other houses which -have been erected by the government, are stored with meal, biscuit, -hung beef, and fuel, during the winter, for the couriers who are -obliged to go once a month for the mails from Europe, and who are -frequently detained by heavy falls of snow. - -The inhabitants of the partido of Aconcagua amount to about 8000. - -Its capital is _San Felipe_, on the river Aconcagua in 32 deg. 48' south -latitude, which contains several convents, a college built by the -Jesuits, and a parochial church. South-west of this city, and on the -central ridge of the Andes, is the volcano of Aconcagua. - -The village of Curimon, near the Andes, is noted for having a convent -of Franciscans who are extremely strict in their rules. - - -_THE PROVINCE OF MELIPILLA_ - -Is bounded on the north by Quillota, east by Santiago, south by the -river Maypo, which divides it from Rancagua, and on the west by the -Pacific. - -Its sea coast is of little extent, and its breadth, from east to west, -is about twenty-five leagues; its principal produce being wine and -grain. - -The chief rivers are the _Maypo_, the _Maypocha_, and the _Poanque_. - -The chief town is _Melipilla_, or _St. Josef de Logrono_, in 33 deg. 28' -south latitude, and 70 deg. 7' west longitude, not far from the Rio Maypo, -in a beautiful situation and fertile territory, but thinly inhabited, -owing to its vicinity to the metropolis. It contains a parish church, -two convents, and a college founded by the Jesuits. - -_St. Francisco de Monte_, in which is a convent of Franciscans, and the -port of _St. Antonio_, at the mouth of the Maypo, both of which are -inconsiderable places, are the only other towns of any note in this -province. - - -_THE PROVINCE OF SANTIAGO_ - -Is bounded by Aconcagua on the north, the Andes on the east, Melipilla -on the west, and the Rio Maypo on the south. - -It is twenty-one leagues long and twenty-six wide. The gold mines of -this district are chiefly in the mountains, and can be only worked -during the summer; but they are said to amount to 234, besides five -lavaderos, or washing places, in the mountain of Guindo, and some -other veins near Tiltil. Santiago also possesses many silver, several -copper and tin, and one lead mine. The most celebrated of the first are -those of _Lampa_. Jasper has been lately found in the settlement of -Montenegro, of which the people make vases, jars, pitchers and other -articles. - -Santiago is watered by the _Mapocho_, _Colina_, and _Lampa_ rivers, -besides many beautiful rivulets. It also contains Lake _Pudaguel_, -which is about three leagues in length. - -No part of Chili surpasses this district in fertility. It produces -immense quantities of corn, wine, and fruits; the peaches are -particularly fine, and of a very large size. - -The whole mass of the Andes, on its eastern borders, seems filled with -metallic substances, which are washed down by the rivers, the sands of -many containing gold. - -The capital has been already noticed by its being the metropolis of -Chili. - - -_THE PROVINCE OF RANCAGUA_ - -Is bounded on the north by the Maypo, which separates it from Santiago -and Melipilla; east by the Andes; west by the Pacific, and south by the -Cachapoal, which river divides it from Colchagua. Its length, from east -to west is about forty leagues, and its breadth, from north to south, -thirteen. - -The country is fertile and is inhabited by about 12,000 persons of all -the different castes, who live in a very dispersed manner in small -farms and settlements, and are not numerous. - -It has several gold mines, and the mountainous parts contain fine rock -crystal; near its northern border are some good medicinal springs and -baths, which are resorted to by the inhabitants of the metropolis. - -Rancagua is watered by the _Maypo_, _Codagua_, _Cochalan_ and -_Cachapoal_, or _Rapel_, near the mouth of which is a small volcano, -and several smaller rivers which are of great benefit to the -plantations, rendering them very productive. - -There are also some large lakes, which as well as the rivers contain -fish in abundance. The two most celebrated of these are _Acaleu_ and -_Bucalemu_, the first is six miles in circuit, near the centre of the -province; and the latter, near the sea, is from six to seven leagues in -length; near this is a smaller one, from which much salt is obtained. - -Its capital is _Rancagua_, or _Santa Cruz de Triana_, a small town -situated in 34 deg. 18' south latitude, and 70 deg. 42' west longitude, on -the north shore of the river Cachapoal, and fifty-three miles south of -Santiago. It has a parish church, a convent of Franciscans and another -of Mercedarii. A town named _Algue_, has been recently built, eight -leagues, from the capital towards the sea-coast, on account of a very -rich gold mine discovered in its neighbourhood. - - -_THE PROVINCE OF COLCHAGUA_ - -Is situated between the Cachapoal on the north, the Andes on the east, -the Pacific on the west, and the Teno river on the south. Near the -Andes its breadth is twenty-five leagues, but on the coast it does not -exceed fourteen, while its length, from east to west, is forty-three. - -Its climate is temperate, the soil fertile, and, being well watered -by numerous rivers, produces grain, wine and fruits. Here are several -gold mines, and it is not wanting in other metallic substances. This -province was formed out of part of the country of the Promaucians, who -vigorously repelled the attempts of the first conquerors: but having -been compelled to make peace they have ever since been the faithful -allies of the Spaniards, and the enemies of the people of Arauco. - -Their name signifies the Nation of the Country of Delight, in the -Chilese language, as they were so called by the other tribes, on -account of the beauty of the territory they inhabited. - -The principal rivers are the _Rio Claro_, _Tinguiririca_, -_Chimbarongo_, _Teno_ and _Nilahue_, and it contains several lakes, of -which _Taguatagua_ and _Caguil_ are the largest; the former is noted -for the abundance of water-fowl which frequent numerous beautiful -islands in it, and for its trout. This lake is fourteen leagues from -Santiago, on the shore of the Tinguiririca. Caguil is small, and full -of fish. - -The capital and chief towns are St. Fernando, Rio Clarillo, Roma, -Malloa, Topocalma and Navidad. - -_St. Fernando_, the capital, is in 34 deg. 18' south latitude, near Rio -Tinguiririca; it was built in 1742, and contains about 1500 families, -with a parish church, a Franciscan convent, and a college, with a -handsome church built by the Jesuits. - -_Topocalma_ is a port at the mouth of the river of the same name, which -passes near the city of Santiago, and discharges itself into the ocean -in 33 deg. 31' south latitude. - -_Rapel_ is a settlement near Lake Rapel, a sheet of water formed by the -sea. This village is noted for having a hill in its vicinity in which -is a singular cavern, consisting of a single vault, fifteen yards long, -and from three to four wide, to which there is a natural door-way two -yards high. The other towns are of no note. - - -_PROVINCE OF MAULE._ - -This partido is bounded on the north by Colchagua, on the east by the -Andes, on the south-east by Chillan, south-west by Itata, and on the -west by the Pacific. It is forty-four leagues in length, and forty in -breadth, and, like the preceding, having formed part of Promaucia, is a -delightful country, abounding in grain, fruits, cattle, sea and river -fish, salt and gold; and the cheese made in Maule is esteemed the best -in Chili. - -It is watered by many rivers, of which the _Lantue_, _Rioclara_, -_Panque_, _Lircay_, _Huenchullami_, _Putugan_, _Achiguema_, _Longavi_, -_Loncamilla_, _Purapel_, _Mataquito_, _Liguay_ and _Maule_ are the -largest. - -The inhabitants of this fine province are mostly Promaucian Indians, -who are tributary to the Spaniards, and live in villages governed by -their ulmens or caciques. - -The great volcano of _Peteroa_ is on its eastern border, amid the -Andes, and is the most dreadful of all Chilian volcanoes. Its greatest -eruption happened on the 3rd of December, 1760, when it formed itself -a new crater. Peteroa is 105 miles south-south-east of Santiago, 192 -north-east of Concepcion, in 34 deg. 53' south latitude; and 60 deg. -49' west longitude. - -The capital of this district is _Talca_, or _St. Augustin_, founded, in -1742, in 35 deg. 13' south latitude, and 71 deg. 1' west longitude, 193 -miles north-north-east of Concepcion, and 105 south of Santiago, on the -shore of the river Maule. In its vicinity to the east is a fort to -restrain the incursions of the Indians, and to the north-east is a small -hill, which furnishes abundance of amethysts, and another which consists -of a singular cement sand, known by the name of talca. - -Its population is considerable, owing to the rich mines of gold in the -mountains, and to the low price of provisions, which has induced many -families to leave the other towns, and settle in Talca. It contains a -parish church, two monasteries, and a college built by the Jesuits, and -in its immediate neighbourhood are two chapels of ease. - -Maule contains several other towns, and large villages of Indians. -Curico, Cauquenes, St. Saverio de Bella Isla, St. Antonio de la -Florida, and Lora, are the principal ones. - -_Curico_, or San Josef de Buena Vista, was built in 1742, on a fine -plain at the foot of a hill, from which there is a good view, in 34 deg. -14' south latitude, and has a parish church and two convents. - -_Cauquenes_ was built also in 1742, in 35 deg. 40' south latitude, -between the rivers Cauquenes and Tutuben. It has a church and convent. - -_St. Saverio_ and _Florida_ were founded in 1735, the first in 35 deg. -4', and the second in 35 deg. 20' south latitude. - -_Lora_, near the mouth of the Mataquito river, is a large village of -the Promaucians, a courageous, robust and warlike race; and it is -governed by an ulmen or chief. - -The port of the province is _Asterillo_, a small bay between the Maule -and the Metaquito rivers: but the province of Maule is now said to be -divided into three parts; the part southward of the river Maule being -named the partido of Cauquenes, that on the north Maule, and on the -north-east, some lands in Colchagua having been annexed, it is called -the partido of Curico, with the town of that name for its capital. - - -_THE PROVINCE OF ITATA._ - -Is bounded by Maule on the north, Chillan on the east, the Pacific on -the west, and Puchacay on the south. From east to west its length is -twenty leagues, and its breadth from north to south eleven. - -The river Itata intersecting this department, it had its name from it, -and the only other stream of note is the Lonquen. - -The fertility of Itata is such that it produces the best wine in Chili; -which wine is called Concepcion, from its being made on the estates of -persons belonging to that city. The sands of the rivers above-named, -contain gold, and some is also found in its mountains. - -The capital of Itata is _Coulemu_, in 36 deg. 2' south latitude, but it is -merely a small place founded in 1743. - - -_THE PROVINCE OF CHILLAN_ - -Is bounded on the north by Maule, east by the Andes, west by Itata, -and south by Huilquilemu. Its length is twelve leagues, and breadth -twenty-five, and the whole district till it reaches the Andes is a -plain, in which immense flocks of sheep are fed, that are highly -esteemed on account of their fine wool. The soil being very fertile -produces corn and fruits in abundance. - -Its chief rivers are the _Cato_, _Nuble_, and _Chillan_, and on its -eastern border is the great volcano, which bears the name of the -district. - -The capital, _St. Bartolomeo de Chillan_, was founded in 1580 on the -river of the same name, in 36 deg. south latitude, and has been frequently -disturbed and destroyed by the inroads of the Araucanians; in the -year 1751 it was destroyed by an overflow of the Chillan, and in -consequence, it was removed to its present scite, which is a short -distance from where it first stood, and less exposed to the inundations -of the river in winter. This city has a numerous population, one parish -church, three convents, and a college founded by the Jesuits, 75 miles -north-east of Concepcion. - - -_THE PROVINCE OF PUCHACAY_ - -Is bounded on the north by Itata, on the east by Huilquilemu, on the -west by the ocean, and on the south by the river Biobio, being twelve -leagues in extent from north to south, and twenty-three from east to -west. - -Puchacay is noted for the abundance of gold found in it, and for the -fertility of its soil; its large wild and garden strawberries are much -sought after for making preserves. - -The _Lirquen_ the _Andalien_, and the _Biobio_ are its finest rivers. - -The capital is _Gualqui_, founded in 1754, upon the north shore of -the Biobio, in 36 deg. 44' south latitude, and in which the Intendant -or prefect usually resides; but the city of Concepcion is the most -important town in the province. - -_Conception_, or _Penco_ was founded by Valdivia in a valley on the -sea-coast in 36 deg. 47' south latitude, and 73 deg. 9' west longitude; at -the commencement it flourished very much, owing to the predilection which -the founder had for it, and to the quantities of gold discovered in its -vicinity, but after the battle of Mariqueno in 1554, Villagran the -governor abandoned the place and it was burnt by Lautaro the Araucanian -toqui; it was however rebuilt in November 1555, but Lautro returning -with a great force took it, slew the inhabitants, and once more -destroyed the town; Don Garcia de Mendoza restored it and fortified it -so strongly that it was enabled to resist a siege by the Indians for -fifty days; but Concepcion was doomed to be again taken and burnt by -them in 1603. - -The consequence of the harbour to the Spaniards, and the necessity -of having a strong town on the frontier, caused it to be once more -rebuilt, and as every means to increase its natural strength was -taken, it soon became formidable enough to defy the Indians. This city -continued to increase till 1730, when it was almost totally destroyed -by an earthquake and inundation. - -It was again rebuilt, but in 1751 another earthquake, attended with a -still more dreadful inundation, destroyed it totally. The inhabitants -fled to the hills, and continued in an unsettled state for thirteen -years, when they resolved to build their favourite city a league from -its former scite, in a beautiful valley named Mocha. Concepcion was -erected into a bishopric after the total destruction of the city of -Imperial in 1603. - -The corregidor of Penco is commander of the army on the Araucanian -frontier, and assembles the militia when ordered out at this place. -There are also several public offices in Concepcion, _viz._ the royal -treasury for the payment of the troops; the camp master general's -office, &c. The royal audience was first established there in 1567, but -was afterwards removed to Santiago. - -Besides the palace of the captain-general who is obliged to reside at -Concepcion occasionally, it contains a cathedral, convents of all the -religious orders established in Chili, a nunnery, a college founded by -the Jesuits, public schools, and a seminary for the nobility. - -The inhabitants amount to about 13,000; and the climate of this city is -delightful, the temperature being always mild. - -The bishop of Concepcion has a jurisdiction extending over all the -islands and continental settlements of the Spaniards south of the -province of Santiago; but what renders this city of the greatest -importance, is its bay, which is one of the best in Spanish America. -Its length from north to south is about three leagues and a-half, and -the breadth from east to west three. In the mouth of it lies the island -of _Quiriquina_, forming two entrances, of which that on the east is -the best, being two miles broad. - -In the bay are three anchoring grounds, that named _Talcaguana_ is -the most frequented by all vessels, as they lie secure from the north -winds. It has a small town at its termination two leagues from the -capital, and to which it gives its name; the two other roads are not -so well sheltered from the north winds, and have not such good bottom -as Talcaguana. The tides rise six feet three inches, but the water -is smooth, and the current is scarcely felt. Though this celebrated -harbour is so good, yet it is necessary to have an experienced pilot to -conduct a ship into it, as there are several reefs and shoals off the -entrance. - - -_PROVINCE OF HUILQUILEMU._ - -Huilquilemu is the thirteenth and last department of Continental Chili, -and is bounded by Chillan on the north; by the Cordillera of the Andes -on the west, Puchacay on the east, and the Biobio on the south. - -The rivers _Biobio_, _Puchacay_, _Itata_, _Claro_, _Laxo_, and -_Duqueco_ are its chief streams, and the first named may be said to -be the boundary between the Spanish possessions and the country of -the Araucanian confederacy. It rises in the Andes near the volcano of -Tucapel, and runs into the Pacific, a short distance south of the city -of Concepcion, where at a league above its mouth it is four leagues -in breadth. The Biobio may be forded on horseback in summer, but in -winter it is deep, and generally navigated with balsas or rafts. On -the northern and southern shores of this river, the Spaniards have -constructed a chain of frontier forts to restrain the Indians; these -works are generally strongly built, and well furnished with arms, -ammunition, provisions, and a competent garrison of cavalry, infantry, -and artillery. - -The principal forts are _Arauco_, where the commanding general -resides, _Santajuana_, _Puren_, _Los Angelos_, _Tucapel_, _Yumbel_, -_Santabarbara_, _St. Pedro_, _Nascimiento_ and _Colcura_. - -Huilquilemu is rich in gold, which is procured by washings in the -numerous streams flowing from the Andes; its plains are very fertile, -and yield grains and fruits in great plenty, and an excellent muscadel -wine is made from the vines grown in its settlements. - -The Indians are of the same tribe with those of Itata, and having been -long accustomed to defend their country against the Araucanians; they -are warlike and courageous. - -The capital is _Estancia del Rey_, or _St. Luis de Gonzaga_, lately -built near the Biobio in 36 deg. 45', south latitude. It has a parish -church, and a college erected by the Jesuits. The other places of -Huilquilemu, are mostly small villages, and it contains the four -frontier forts, Yumbel, Tucapel, Santa Barbara and Puren. - -The Spaniards possess no other part of Chili on the continent, in -proceeding to the south of the Biobio river, till the 39 deg. 58' of -south latitude, where they hold the city of Valdivia and the country in -its vicinity, but as their tenure is by no means certain without the walls -of the town, it cannot be called a province. - -_Valdivia_ is situated on the banks of the river of the same name, in -south latitude 40 deg. 5', west longitude 80 deg. 5', at three leagues -distance from the sea. - -This city was founded in 1551, by Pedro de Valdivia, who gave it -his name, and amassed much gold in its vicinity, which tempted many -Europeans to settle in it, so that it soon became a place of importance. - -In 1599, it was surprised by the toqui Paillamachu, who entered it at -night with 4000 men, slew the greater part of the garrison consisting -of 800 soldiers, burnt the town, and carried the inhabitants into -captivity. It was, however, soon rebuilt more strongly, and resisted -all the attacks of the Araucanians, but was taken by the Dutch in 1640, -who abandoned it soon after. - -On the arrival of the Spanish fleet which had been fitted out to attack -the Dutch garrison, they found Valdivia deserted, and therefore set -immediately about adding to its fortifications, erecting four new forts -on both sides of the river, towards the sea, and one on the north on -the land front. - -These precautions have prevented it from falling into the hands of the -natives or foreigners, but it has been twice nearly destroyed by fire. - -This town contains a college built by the Jesuits, several convents, a -parochial church, and a royal hospital; and is governed by a military -officer, nominated from Spain, who has a strong body of troops under -his orders. The fortress is provisioned, by sea, from the ports of -Chili, and the troops are paid by the treasury of Peru. - -All the rivers in the vicinity of Valdivia contain much gold dust in -their sands, and the plains furnish fine timber. - -Its harbour is formed by a beautiful bay made by the river, which is -navigable for large vessels a considerable distance from its mouth. -The island of Manzera, lying in the entrance of the stream, divides it -into two channels, which are bordered by steep mountains and strongly -fortified. - -The Spaniards not possessing any other settlements important enough to -excite notice on the main land, towards the south, we shall pass to the -description of their island territories in this quarter. - - - - -_INSULAR CHILI._ - - -No part of America has more islands on its coasts than Chili has, and -many of these being inhabited, they form a political as well as a -natural division of the kingdom. - -The following are the chief Chilian Isles:-- - -The three _Coquimbanes_, _Mugillon_, _Totoral_ and _Pajaro_, which -lie off the coast of Coquimbo, and are each six or eight miles in -circumference, but are uninhabited. - -_Quiriquina_, at the entrance of the harbour of Concepcion, and -_Talca_, or _Santa Maria_ to the south of the harbour, which are two -islands of about four miles in length, noted for the abundance of shell -fish and sea wolves found on their coasts. In Santa Maria there are -also fine springs, and many wild horses and hogs, the latter of which -feed on the wild turnips which cover its valleys. - -_Mocha_, in 38 deg. 40', is more than sixty miles in circumference, and -lies off the coast of Araucania; is not inhabited, but is very fertile, -and was formerly settled by some Spaniards; at present it is frequented -by the whalers from the United States and England, who begin fishing -here, as it is well supplied with wild hogs; but the most important of -the Chilian group are the isles comprised in the-- - - -_ARCHIPELAGO OF CHILOE_, - -Which is an assemblage of islands, forty-seven in number, situated in a -great bay or gulf, near the southern extremity of Chili, and extending -from Cape Capitanes to Quillan, or from 41 deg. 50' to 44 deg. south -latitude, and from 73 deg. to 74 deg. 20' west longitude. - -Of this group thirty-two have been colonized by the Spaniards or -Indians, and the rest are untenanted. The largest of those which are -inhabited is Chiloe, or Isla Grande, which in former times was called -Ancud, but has since given its present name to the whole group. - -_Chiloe_ is situated at the entrance of the gulf of Chiloe, or Ancud, -having its western shore opposed to the continent, and forming a -channel, which is about three miles broad at the north entrance, and -twelve leagues at the south. - -It lies between 41 deg. 30' and 44 deg. south latitude, being about -sixty leagues in length and twenty in its greatest breadth. - -The climate of this, and of all the others, is mild and salubrious, -and the extremes of heat and cold are unknown. Unlike the northern -provinces of Chili, the rains in Chiloe are so frequent that it -is only in the autumn they discontinue, and that but for a short -time. The air is, therefore, humid, and grain and fruits are not so -abundantly produced as on the continent. The corn raised in Chiloe is -however fully sufficient for the consumption of the inhabitants; and -barley, beans and pease thrive very well. The vegetables principally -cultivated, are cabbages and garlic; but the gardens do not produce -much fruit; apples and some other hardy plants being the only ones -which arrive to perfection. - -Horses and cattle are bred in considerable numbers, as are sheep and -swine; and in the two latter the commerce of the islanders principally -consists. - -Deer, otters and foxes are natural to the soil, and there is no want of -game. - -The seas around, and the streams which flow into them, swarm with fish -of every kind; and the forests furnish abundance of timber fit for -every purpose. - -This group of islands was first discovered by Don Garcia de Mendoza, -in his march to the south of Chili. In 1563, Don Martin Ruiz Gamboa -was sent to conquer them with 60 men, and with this trifling force he -subjected the Indians, amounting, it is said, to as many thousands. -He founded the town of Castro and the port of Chacao in Chiloe. The -Chilotes, or native Indians, remained quiet for a long time, but at -last threw off the yoke of Spain; and Don Pedro Molina was then sent -with a strong force from Concepcion, and soon reduced them to their -former obedience. They are descendants of the Chilese of the continent, -but far from resembling them in their warlike bent, are extremely timid -and docile. The Chilotes are remarkable for their ingenuity, and are -particularly capable of carrying on the trades of carpenters, joiners, -cabinet-makers and turners. Their manufactures of cloths, linen and -woollen, display much taste, and are dyed with beautiful colours. - -The Chilotes are the best sailors in South America; their little -barks, or Piraguas, are very numerous in the seas surrounding their -island, and being navigated with sails as well as oars, give a lively -appearance to the shores. In these barks, which only consist of a -few planks sewed together and cauked with moss, they make voyages to -Concepcion. - -Besides the Chilotes, there are several other natives of different -tribes in the islands, who have accompanied the missionaries from the -neighbouring continent, and the Indian inhabitants of the Archipelago -are said to amount to 11,000, divided into seventy-six settlements or -districts, each governed by a native chief. The number of persons -of Spanish descent is about the same, dispersed in farms, in small -settlements, and in four towns. - -The commerce of the Archipelago is carried on by a few vessels from -Peru and Chili, which bring wine, brandy, tobacco, sugar, Paraguay -tea, salt and European goods, and take in return red cedar and other -boards, timber of different kinds, ponchos or cloaks manufactured by -the Indians, hams, dried and salted fish, toys and ambergris; but their -trade will probably never be very thriving, as the navigation of the -numerous straits formed by the islands, is extremely difficult and -dangerous for large vessels. - -All the islands are mountainous and full of craggy and precipitous -rocks, covered with impenetrable thickets, which render cultivation -difficult, except in the valleys and on the shores; the interior is -therefore seldom inhabited; on Chiloe there are forty settlements or -townships, which are mostly on the coast. These townships have each -their church or chapel, but the houses are very much dispersed. - -Earthquakes are as frequent in these islands as on the mainland, and it -does not appear by any means improbable, from the conic formation of -most of the mountains, and their scorified appearance, that they are -the produce of some dreadful internal convulsion, which has disrupted -them from the adjacent continent, on which is the lofty snow-capped -summit of the great Corcobado, and several active volcanoes; the range -of the Cordillera approaching close to the coast in these latitudes. - -In 1737, the Archipelago suffered very much from the effects of an -earthquake, and the islands of the Guaytecas group to the south, were -covered with ashes which destroyed the vegetation for thirteen years. - -The continent opposite to the northern extremity of Chiloe, has some -Spanish settlements in the country of the Canches and Huilliches, -small but independent tribes; these settlements are said to be three -in number, of which _Fort Maullin_, opposite to Chaco Bay in Chiloe is -the chief, and the Spaniards are engaged in forming communications from -this settlement to Valdivia; as the sea is rendered almost innavigable -during the winter by the frequent and dreadful storms. Pedro de -Agueros, gives the names of twenty-four islands on the east of the -Great Chiloe, which are inhabited, but as so little is known concerning -this group, and as several contradictory statements have been made -about them, the mere names are uninteresting. - -The capital is _Castro_, in 42 deg. 40' south latitude, on the eastern -shore of the island of Chiloe, upon an arm of the sea, and was founded -in 1566, by Don Martin Ruiz de Gamboa. - -The houses, as is the case with all the rest in the province, are of -wood, and are inhabited by about 150 persons; it has a parish church, -a convent of Franciscans, and another of Mercedarii, in which only two -or three monks reside. This city was overthrown by an earthquake soon -after its foundation, since which it has never been in a flourishing -state; it is 180 miles south of Valdivia. - -The other towns are the port of _Chacao_ or _Chaco_, in the middle of -the north coast of Chiloe, and opposite to Port Maullin, which has a -tolerable anchorage, but is difficult of access. - -_San Carlos_ is on the Bahia del Rey, and was built In 1767, on account -of the difficulties attending the entrance to Chaco. It is in 41 deg. 57' -south latitude, and 73 deg. 58' west longitude, and is the most populous -and flourishing town in the province, containing 1100 inhabitants. The -harbour is good, but subject to tremendous squalls and hurricanes; -and the town is fortified, and has a regular garrison; and from the -advantages of its harbour, the governor and council always reside at -San Carlos. - -The other islands have each one settlement and a missionary church on -them, excepting _Quinchuan_, which has six; _Lemui_ and _Llachi_, each -four, and _Calbuco_ three, but none of any material consequence. - -South of the Islands of Chiloe is the Archipelago of GUAYTECAS and -CHONOS, lying in a large gulf or inlet of the continent, from 44 deg. 20' -to 45 deg. 46' south latitude; they are comprehended by the Spaniards -within the province of Chiloe, but are uninhabited, being a mere mass -of granite rocks, covered with thick forests. - -Some of these, namely, _Tequehuen_, _Ayaupa_, _Menchuan_ and _Yquilao_, -the Indians of Chiloe visit periodically, and put cows in them, for the -sake of the pasture, which is luxuriant. - -Having now concluded the description of that part of Chili inhabited by -Spaniards, and their descendants, we shall give a slight sketch of the -country, reaching from the Biobio river to Fort Maullin; and which, on -account of its being the territory of the Araucanians and of nations in -confederacy and identified with those people, in manners and language, -it may be proper to give the general name of Araucania. - - - - -_ARAUCANIA, OR INDIAN CHILI_, - - -Extends from the river Biobio in 36 deg. to the south of Chiloe, in the 45 -deg. of south latitude, exceeding 420 miles in breadth, and also occupying -from the 33 deg. to the 45 deg. south latitude, both the central and -eastern ridges of the Andes. The nations who inhabit this extensive tract -are the _Araucanians_, possessing the country between the Biobio and -the Valdivia rivers, the Pacific and the Andes; the _Puelches_, who -inhabit the western flanks of the Cordillera and its central valleys; -and still farther north, on the Andes, adjoining Cuyo, the _Pehuenches_ -and the _Chiquillanes_, their territory lying as far north as the -thirty-third degree of south latitude, or opposite to Santiago, the -capital of Chili, and extending indefinitely to the east. - -South of the Valdivia river, and as far as the forty-fifth degree, are -the _Cunches_ on the sea coast, and the _Huilliches_ in the plains, -near the western declivity of the Andes, which mountains are also -occupied in this quarter by the Puelches. - -All this country, to the north of the archipelago of Chiloe, is fertile -and pleasant, consisting mostly of wide plains, agreeably diversified -with mountains. That part which lies on the Andes possesses some -beautiful valleys, but as the chain attains a great elevation the -climate is cold. In these valleys, towards the east, salt and sulphur -is plentiful; and the precious metals are by no means rare. Near -Valdivia, immense quantities of gold were formerly found in the sands -of the rivers and in alluvious grounds, but they are not worked at -present, as the Spaniards are kept from those places by the natives. - -In Araucania the vegetables and animals are the same as those of -Spanish Chili; but the rivers and sea abound with fish in greater -quantities than in the latter country. - -The Araucanian nation is the most considerable and the most noted of -all those which have been named as inhabiting Indian Chili; the others -resemble them in their customs and persons, but are in a more savage -state; we shall therefore only describe these extraordinary people, -whose history forms so prominent a feature in the affairs of Chili. -They are of a middling stature, well made, and of a strong muscular -form and martial appearance. Their colour is the same as that of the -other native American tribes, only rather clearer, and they have -round faces, small eyes, and small feet; and many of their women are -said to be beautiful. Accustomed to a hardy life; and breathing a pure -air, these people live to an advanced age, and are not subject to many -disorders. In character they are haughty, free, patient under fatigue, -and very intrepid in danger; but are fond of strong liquors, which -causes them to commit crimes. - -Their dress consists of clothes fitted close to the body, and ponchos, -or cloaks, which are made of cotton, and are so beautifully worked that -they are sometimes worth a hundred and fifty dollars. - -Their heads are girt with embroidered wool, in which is placed plumes -of ostrich, flamingo and other beautiful feathers. The women wear a -robe of woollen stuff, descending to the feet, and tied round the waist -with a girdle, over which they put a small cloak. The hair is allowed -to grow long, and is formed in tresses ornamented with a kind of false -emerald and other gems; necklaces, bracelets, and rings on every -finger, complete the female toilet. The national colour, which is worn -by both sexes, particularly among the lower classes, is greenish blue. - -These people never inhabit towns, but dwell in huts, occasionally -placed near each other, though oftener dispersed on the banks of the -rivers and in the plains; these habitations descend from father to -son, and are not removed, except in case of absolute necessity. The -cottages are remarkably neat, and are proportioned to the size of -the family; they are surrounded with trees, under whose shades their -repasts are made in summer; and the rich people display much plate on -these occasions. At their marriages, funerals, and feasts, the utmost -profusion of provision appears; and at these times fermented liquors -are given in such quantities that they often occasion feuds. - -Polygamy is practised by these people, every man having as many wives -as he can maintain, it being deemed reproachful to remain unmarried. -Instead of the husband receiving a portion with his wife, he pays a -considerable sum to the parents for their permission to wed her; after -he has obtained which, he carries off his bride without any further -ceremony, excepting giving a feast to her relations. The first wife is -regarded as the head of the family, the others being under her orders -in respect to the management of the house; each wife has a separate -apartment where she prepares food for her husband every day, and all -present him once a year with a poncho or embroidered cloak, but the -women are in general condemned to the laborious occupations. - -Both sexes practise daily ablutions in the rivers, and are excellent -swimmers. - -Oratory is held in the highest esteem by these people; and their -language, which is the ancient dialect of Chili, is very soft, -harmonious, and rich. Molina in his description of Chili has given a -full account of it, and says that it differs essentially from all the -languages of the American tribes. - -The government of that part of Chili inhabited by this nation is -singular; they divide the territory into four parallel provinces, the -maritime, the plains, the foot of the Andes, and that which lies on -the sides of these mountains; each province is separated into five -districts, and these are again subdivided into nine other portions. - -The four provinces are governed each by a _toqui_ or general, -subordinate to whom are the _Apo Ulmens_; and on these, as far as -military affairs are concerned, the _Ulmens_ are dependent, each -subdivision having its Ulmen or Cacique. All these magistrates have -distinctive badges; the toqui a hatchet; the Apo Ulmen a silver-headed -rod encircled by a ring; and the Ulmen a rod with a silver head; and -these dignities are hereditary. The whole are occasionally combined -in a general council, which meets on a plain; the chief occasion to -assemble this council being to elect a supreme toqui for the command -of the army when it is about to take the field; and any native is -eligible to this appointment. - -Their wars are terrible, and as they are excellent horsemen, the -Araucanian cavalry is very formidable, their arms being swords and -lances; those of the infantry, clubs and pikes; their onset is furious, -but always conducted with order, and though swept down in rants by the -cannon, they close with their Spanish enemies, and fighting hand to -hand, are frequently victors in spite of the superiority of European -discipline and arms. - -After a great victory they sacrifice a prisoner to the manes of their -warriors who have fallen in battle; and this ceremony is said to be -attended with some disgusting circumstances, such as the toqui and -chiefs sucking the blood from the panting heart of the victim, which is -cut for that purpose from his breast. - -These people have always resisted the attempts of the English and Dutch -to land on the shores of Chili; they were seen by Sir Francis Drake in -his celebrated voyage round the world, in some of the islands near the -coast, and subsequently they drove the Dutch from several points on -which they had landed. - -They have hitherto frustrated all the attempts of the Spaniards -to conquer their country, and being in strict alliance with the -surrounding nations, keep the Europeans at defiance. - -The Araucanians are said to wander over the Andes with the Puelches, -in order to attack the convoys of merchandize and the travellers going -from Buenos Ayres to Chili through the Pampas; and have even penetrated -in the disguise of friendly Indians, as far as Buenos Ayres itself. - -We shall conclude this account of Spanish America with a short -description of a Spanish settlement formerly made in the Straits of -Magalhaens, and of the islands on the coasts of South America belonging -to or claimed by that power. - -The Straits of Magalhaens and others in their vicinity being at -present, though it is to be hoped that the voyage now performing by -order of the British Government will not long allow them to remain -so, the only passage from the Atlantic into the Pacific Ocean, it may -not be uninteresting to state that they were discovered by FERDINAND -MAGALHAENS a Portuguese navigator, who having turned his mind to the -circumstance of the extreme probability of there being a communication -between the two oceans which had in vain been sought for by Columbus -and his followers, offered to conduct an expedition to explore the -southern part of America for this purpose. - -Meeting with a denial from his own court, he went to Madrid, where, -from his known talents and previous voyages, he received the utmost -favour; a fleet was fitted out, and, being placed under his orders, -Magalhaens sailed from the Guadalquivir on the 10th of August 1519, and -discovering the coast of Patagonia, proceeded along its shores to the -south, where the land bearing away to the west, the admiral followed -it, till he found his squadron in the straights that now bear his name, -through which he passed, and entered the great South Sea on the 28th of -November, 1520; proceeding through it till he discovered the Ladrones, -and in one of those isles was killed in a skirmish with the natives; -after which, one of his ships only arrived in Spain by way of the Cape -of Good Hope, on the 7th of September, 1522, having been absent three -years and twenty-seven days; and having had the honour of being the -first to circumnavigate the globe. - -Sir Francis Drake, following Magalhaens by the same route into the -South Sea, and taking much treasure and many ships from the people -of Chili, Peru and Mexico, it was determined by the Spanish court -that the newly discovered passage should be explored and fortified. -With this view Sarmiento, the best naval officer in the service, -was selected in Peru to pass the Straits from the South Sea into the -Atlantic; he accordingly performed this voyage; and so plausible were -the representations he made to the cabinet of Madrid, that Philip II. -ordered twenty-three ships to be fitted out, with 3500 men, under Don -Diego de Valdez, and Sarmiento with 500 veterans was directed to settle -and fortify such positions as he deemed the best. - -It was more than two years before this fleet arrived at its -destination: but as soon as it entered the straits, Sarmiento built a -town and fort at the eastern entrance, which he named _Nombre de Jesus_ -and in which he left 150 men; fifteen leagues farther to the west he -erected another fortress, in the narrowest part of the straits, and In -53 deg. 18' south latitude, where he built his principal town, which he -called _Ciudad del Rey Felipe_. This was a regular square, with four -bastions, and is said to have been excellently contrived. In it was -placed a garrison of 400 men and thirty women, with provisions for -eight months: but on the return of Sarmiento into the Atlantic he was -taken by an English ship. - -The garrison, for want of succour, fell a prey to disease and famine, -and on January the 7th, Sir Thomas Candish found only one Spaniard, out -of twenty-three who had remained alive, which were all that had escaped -of the whole colony; the twenty-two others had set out to find their -way to the Rio de la Plata over land: but as they were never heard of, -it is conjectured they must have perished miserably in the deserts of -Patagonia. - -Thus ended this seemingly well-ordered expedition; since which time the -Spaniards have not attempted to resume the colony; finding that the -straits were too wide to fortify, and that other passages existed to -the south, which were equally good for the purposes of the navigator. - - - - -_ISLANDS ON THE COASTS_ - -OF SPANISH SOUTH AMERICA. - - -Commencing the description of the Spanish South American islands from -the coasts of Chili, our attention is first led to the islands of -JUAN FERNANDEZ, three in number; the largest, which alone properly -bears that appellation, is in 33 deg. 40' south latitude, and 80 deg. -30' west longitude, distant from Chili 110 leagues, and was discovered -by a Spaniard, who gave it his name, in 1563. This island was so much -spoken of by navigators in early times that it was supposed to be a -terrestrial paradise. It is, however, in fact, merely a small spot, -rising out of the ocean to a considerable height, not more than four -leagues in length from east to west, and generally mountainous, but -there are some fine valleys and plains, which are full of trees and -herbage. The hills towards the north are also covered with large -woods, but those on the south are destitute of timber; every place is, -however, overspread with coarse grass, which grows to the height of -six feet. Among all the species of trees there are few of the tropical -kinds, owing to the coldness of the climate; for being surrounded by -the sea, it is even cooler here than on the coast of Chili, under the -same parallel: but the European and American fruits peculiar to these -latitudes flourish and grow abundantly. - -Juan Fernandez has been the abode of several English navigators in the -voyages round the world, and into the Pacific, from the circumstance of -its being excellently adapted as a place of shelter and refreshment to -squadrons or vessels cruizing against the trade of Peru and Chili; but -the government of the former country made a settlement here in 1750, -which completely prevented all vessels from touching here excepting -those belonging to powers in amity with Spain. Its western side is -composed of cliffs rising perpendicularly out of the sea, but the -north-west point is the first anchoring place, and here the Spaniards -have a guard-house and battery. About half a mile east north-east of -this is the great bay, where the anchorage is close to the shore; -and in this bay is seated the village or principal settlement; in a -fine valley between two high hills. A battery of five guns on the -right commands the road, and there is another on the left, with seven -embrazures to the anchorage, and seven towards the town. - -In this village the houses amount to about forty; but there are several -dispersed over different parts of the island. Each house has a garden, -with grape vines, fig, cherry, plum and almond trees, and plenty of -vegetables. - -The officer who commands at this island is sent from Chili, in which -government it is included, and the island is called _La de Tierra_ by -the Spaniards, on account of its lying nearer the shore of Chili than -the next largest, which is distinguished by the name of _Mas-afuera_, -or the farthest, and is 80 miles west from Juan Fernandez, in 80 deg. -46' west longitude, and 33 deg. 45' south latitude. This last is very -high and mountainous, and at a distance appears one hill; its form is -triangular, and seven or eight leagues in circuit; the southern part is -much the highest, and on the north end are some clear spots, but the -rest is covered with wood. Several parts of the coasts of this isle -afford good anchorage, but the bottom is generally deep; and it abounds -in goats, which are easily caught and afford a good supply of fresh -provision. On the south-west point of the island is a pierced rock, -which proves a good mark for the anchorage on the western shore. - -Mas-afuera contains plenty of wood and fresh water, falling in cascades -from the high ground of the interior; but these articles cannot be -procured without difficulty, on account of the rocky nature of the -shore causing the surf to beat violently. Several birds, and amongst -these large hawks, are seen on the land, and hovering over the fish -which abound on the shores, and may be easily caught. Sea wolves, -seals, and other aquatic animals, are also very common. - -Off the south-western extremity of Juan Fernandez is a small -uninhabited isle, or rather rock, named Isla de Cabras, or Isle of -Goats. - -These islands are noted for having been the residence of two persons -whose adventure gave rise to the novel of Robinson Crusoe. The one was -a Mosquito Indian left there by the Buccaneers, and the other Alexander -Selkirk, a Scotchman, also left there by his ship, and who lived four -or five years on Juan Fernandez, subsisting upon the goats he caught, -which were introduced into the islands by Fernandez, the discoverer, -who settled and died in La de Tierra. - -In proceeding to the north from these, the next isles of any -consequence off the coasts of Peru, are those named _St. Felix_ and -_St. Ambrose_; but these are mere rocks of some extent and very high, -on which innumerable seals and marine animals are found. They are not -more than five miles in circumference, and are four leagues and a half -distant from each other, between 26 deg. 19' and 26 deg. 13' south -latitude, and between 79 deg. 41' and 79 deg. 26' west longitude. - -On the coast of Peru, opposite the town of Pisco are the _Isles -of Lobos_, or the Sea Wolves, where numbers of seals and other -aquatic animals may be caught; they are also, however, mere rocks; -north-north-west of these rocks is the small isle of _Sangallan_ in 13 -deg. 45' south latitude, famous for seals and sea wolves, and north of -this are the isles _Chinca_, _Pachacamac_, and _St. Lorenzo_, all small, -but the latter of which is famous as forming the road of Callao, being -the place where the Dutch fortified themselves in 1624, when they made an -attempt against Lima. - -North of these are the _Farellones de Huara_, which are dangerous -rocks, and the isles _de Saint Martin_, _de Santa_, and _de Chao_, also -very small, and close to the coast of Peru. - -The next are the _Lobos de Mar_, formerly the resort of the Buccaneers, -and the _Lobos de Tierra_, the first sixteen leagues from the shore, -and the latter close to it; they are twelve miles from each other, in -6 deg. 25' and 6 deg. 45' south latitude, but are unimportant. - -North of these, in the gulf of Guayaquil, is the large island of _Puna_ -already mentioned. - -The next on the coast of New Granada is _Salengo_, a small isle near -Cape Santa Elena, and still further is _La Plata_, the place where -Sir Francis Drake divided his plunder, and is a very small isle -close to the coast, in 1 deg. 10' north latitude, which is followed at -a considerable distance on the shore of Atacames, by the _Isla del -Gallo_, a small uninhabited spot, furnishing good wood and water, in 2 -deg. 28' south latitude, and 76 deg. 47' west longitude. - -The next is _Gorgona_, in 3 deg. 36' south latitude, and 77 deg. 52' -west longitude, 10 miles in circumference, and eighteen from the coast; -opposite to these, but at a great distance from the land, are the -_Gallapagos or Tortoise Islands_, but as they are uninhabited, and more -than 110 leagues from the land, a description will take us beyond the -limits we have prescribed to the work. - -From Plata there are no isles of any consequence on the coast, till -those which lie in the bay of Panama, occur, but they have already been -mentioned in the description of the isthmus. - -Crossing to the western side, and beginning at the northern boundary of -Panama, we find several groups of rocky islets on the shores of that -province, but none of them are of sufficient size or importance to -merit a detail of their figure or qualities; passing therefore along -the northern shore, the island of _Baru_, or _Varu_, presents itself -near the southern part of that which Carthagena is built. It is large, -fertile, and inhabited; its length is about sixteen miles, and breadth -three, in 10 deg. 12' north latitude, and 75 deg. 25' west longitude. - -Off the coast of Caraccas are several large islands, of which _Aves_, -_Rocca_, _Orchilla_, _Blanca_, Tortuga-Salada, _Margarita_, _Cubagua_, -_Cocke_, _Los Testigos_, and some others belong to the Spaniards, and -are included within the limits of the captain-generalship of Caraccas. -_Aves_ and _Rocca_, are barren and uninhabited rocks; _Orchilla_ or -_Horchilla_, is a small cluster, in 12 deg. north latitude, and 65 deg. -20' west longitude, the largest isle being in the form of a crescent, -and is low, excepting on the east and west capes, which are very hilly; -on this part the trees and verdure abound, whilst the other sides are -barren and salt. The only animals on it are goats and lizards, and it -contains but little fresh water; _Blanca_, or _Blanquilla_, in 11 deg. -56' north latitude, and 64 deg. 40' west longitude, is also desert, but -higher and more rocky than the former. - -_Tortuga-Salada_ is in 10 deg. 53' north latitude, and 65 deg. 18' west -longitude, ninety-five miles east-north-east of La Guayra on the main -land, and forty-eight west of Margarita, being about thirty miles in -circumference, and abounding in salt ponds. The southern part contains -some fresh-water springs, and is well covered with trees, but the rest -is barren, naked and full of salt-pools, for which reason it was much -frequented by vessels of all nations, in order to take in cargoes of -that substance, but the Spaniards have lately laid these pools under -water; this island is, however, still used by foreign vessels in time -of peace, and on it are some goats which have multiplied very much. -_Margarita_ has been already noticed; its western side is a noted -sea-mark, on account of a cape in 64 deg. 26' west longitude, named Cape -Macanao, the mountains of which are 3500 or 4000 feet in height above -the sea. - -_Cubagua_, _Coche_, _Los Testigos_ and _Los Frayles_, are small -uninhabited islands in the neighbourhood of Margarita, but were -formerly noted for their pearl fishery, and they were first discovered -by Columbus. On Cubagua a town was founded soon after by Ojeda, who -named it New Cadiz; but no vestiges of it now remain. At that time the -coast from Paria to Cape Vela, was named Costa de las Perlas, the Coast -of Pearls, the first Spaniards who landed on this shore, finding the -natives every where decorated with those valuable jewels. So actively -was the trade carried on in these islands, that at the conquest, -_Coche_ alone furnished to the value of 1500 marks a month; and the -King's annual fifth amounted to 15,000 ducats; til 1530, the pearl -fishery averaged yearly 173,000_l._, while the American mines furnished -only during the same period, 434,000_l._ sterling. But this fishery -diminished rapidly afterwards, and was entirely at an end before 1683. - -The destruction of the oysters contributed to this decay, as well as -the cutting and setting diamonds which had become common in the 16th -century. At present the Indians are the only persons concerned in -this traffic, and they sometimes procure a few pearls, but they are -generally of the seed kind, and they sell them at Cumana for five -shillings a dozen. - -The island of _Cubagua_ is full of small deer, which are of a brownish -red on the back, white under the belly, and beautifully spotted, some -of them are quite white; the Guayqueria Indians frequently land on the -island to kill them for the sake of the venison and skins. - -Nearer the coasts of Caraccas, and between La Guayra and Cumana, in -the bays of Mochima and Santa Fe, are some extraordinary islets named -_Caraccas_ and _Chimanas_ the former being three, and the latter eight -in number, but they are nearly barren rocks, some of which, as _Picua_, -_Picuita_, _Caraccas_, and _Boracha_ which is the largest, rise to -the height of 930 feet above the surrounding ocean. On one of them -are large wild goats, which were originally left there by a family -who settled on it from the continent; but the father outliving his -children, and becoming rich enough to purchase slaves, he brought two -blacks from Cumana, who murdered him, and living on the produce of the -farm, were undiscovered in so lonely a spot, for a length of time; but -by some accident the affair becoming known, they were taken to Cumana, -where one was beheaded, and the other turned public executioner in -order to save his life. - -Between Cape Unare and Barcelona are the two _Piritoo_ islands, which -are low and covered with herbage, but are uninhabited and of small size. - -In the channel between the British island of Trinidad and Cape Paria -are several small and desert isles which are of little importance; -and descending further to the south, the islands of the mouths of the -Orinoco present themselves, inhabited by a fierce and warlike tribe of -Indians, named the Guarounoes. - -No island of any importance occurs on the Spanish coast of South -America, till we reach the mouth of the La Plata, where the island of -_Lobos_, Wolves, in south latitude 35 deg. and fifteen miles south-west -of Cape Santa Maria, is found; it is small and chiefly noted for the -quantity of sea-wolves, seals and other marine animals which are taken -on it. - -The _Falkland_ or _Malouin Islands_, on the east of the Straits of -Magellan, are at present possessed by the Spaniards, as they have a -fort and barracks on the eastern one, which they have named _Soledad_; -here all the male criminals from Peru and Buenos Ayres are sent for -life; vessels sail with these convicts, and with provisions at stated -seasons, but as no woman ever accompanies them, Soledad cannot be named -a Spanish colony; and it is even doubtful, whether in the present -state of the government of Buenos Ayres, they continue to send their -delinquents to this banishment. - - - - -DESCRIPTION OF THE PLATE - -OF - -COMPARATIVE ALTITUDES OF THE MOUNTAINS - -IN - -SPANISH NORTH AND SOUTH AMERICA. - - -The accompanying plate represents the elevations which some of the -most noted summits attain in MEXICO or NEW SPAIN, contrasted with the -altitudes of the higher peaks of the Southern Andes in QUITO, MERIDA, -SANTA MARTA and CARACCAS; by which it will be readily seen, that the -northern range of the _Cordillera of the Andes_, is not very inferior -in height to that part of the chain which has been considered, till -very lately, to reach an elevation unequalled by any other mountains in -the world. - -Recent enquiries, and the researches of zealous travellers and -geographers, have not only disclosed the fact, that the Asiatic summits -rival and surpass those of Peru, but have also made it questionable -whether the continuation of the Andean chain, south of _Chimborazo_, -_Cotopaxi_, &c. is not far superior in altitude to those celebrated -peaks. - -It is true, that the Cordillera sinks very much after it has passed -the confines of PERU, and that it continues to lower its lofty crest -in running through the vast deserts of _Atacama_, in the kingdom of LA -PLATA, and the upper districts of CHILI; but no sooner has it passed -these provinces, than it again assumes the same majestic form, and -continues it in three parallel ridges, as far as the forty-fifth degree -of south latitude, beyond which scarcely any thing is known of this -enormous chain, excepting that its height is very great till it loses -itself in the ocean of the south, opposite to Cape Pilares, the western -entrance of the Straits of Magalhaens. - -From its quitting COPIAPO, the most northerly province of CHILI, till -it arrives opposite to the great island of CHILOE and the archipelago -of GUAYTECAS, is the space in which the Cordillera is conjectured -to attain an elevation superior to that of the equatorial ridges -of POPAYAN and QUITO; as in this space are the lofty peaks of the -_Descabezado_, the _Tupungato_, _Blanquillo_, _Manflos_, _Longavi_, -_Chillan_, and the _Corcobado_ or Gibbous mountain; all of which rise -so far superior to the lower limits of perpetual congelation, that not -only Molina, but other travellers have imagined they must be higher -than the equinoctial range, though unfortunately all those who have -had the opportunity of seeing them, have either been ignorant of the -methods of determining their altitudes, or have been engaged in such -active employments as to have precluded them from making any other than -slight and general observations. - -One of the most curious circumstances attendant on the scenery of the -Cordillera of the Andes, and which is, from local causes, in a great -measure peculiar to those mountains, is the extreme regularity with -which the inferior term of congelation or lower limit of perpetual -snow, is described on their heads; this feature has therefore been -introduced into the drawing, and that in such a manner as to show -by the scales placed on its sides, the various heights at which the -phenomenon takes place, in the different latitudes the mountains are -situated in. - -Some of the principal cities, towns and volcanoes, and a few of the -most extraordinary scenes in the Andes, have also been introduced, and -a scale of miles has been adapted to the right hand, as well as a scale -of feet to the left, in order to afford every facility to the reader of -the work, in forming just notions of the singular situations of those -objects, which may be better done in a graphic manner, than by any -description; but as the immediate object of this plate is to exhibit -comparative magnitude, on a determinate scale, it is with this view -only that it has been constructed, no regard having been paid to the -effect as a drawing. - -In the centre is introduced the Mountain island of SOCORRO, one of -the REVILLAGEGIDO group, off the western coast of New Spain, which -attains a great elevation for so small a spot, and is remarkable -as being nearly on the same parallel as the volcanic summits of -_Popocatepetl_ or the _Smoky Mountain_, _Citaltepetl_, or _Pico de -Orizaba_, or the _Starry Mountain_; _Iztaccihuatl_, or the White Woman; -_Nauhcampatepetl_, or _Cofre de Perote_, or the Square Mountain; the -_Volcan de Xorullo_ and the _Volcan de Colima_, on the continent, and -as being itself evidently the produce of an ancient eruption. - - - [Illustration: _Comparative Altitudes_ of the Mountains, Towns, &c. of - _Spanish America_. _London, Published by Longman, Hurst, Rees, Orme & - Brown. July 22, 1818_] - - - - - The ensuing list will be found to contain an enumeration of most of - the works which may be referred to as the best authorities for the - early and modern history, &c. of the Spanish colonies in the western - world. - - -LIST OF WORKS ON, OR RELATING TO SPANISH AMERICA, QUOTED IN THIS -PUBLICATION, OR WHICH CONTAIN THE MOST VALUABLE INFORMATION CONCERNING -THOSE COLONIES. - - - ACCOUNT of the Expedition to the Mississippi, and to the interior of - New Spain, by ZEBULON MONTGOMERY PIKE, 1810. - - ACOSTA, Historia Natural y moral de las Indias, 1591 and 1603. - - A Journey through Peru, from Buenos Ayres on the great Rio de la - Plata, by Potosi, to Lima, 8vo. in German, by HELMS, Dresden, 1798. - - ALCEDO'S Dictionary (Geographical and Historical) of America and the - West Indies, edited by THOMPSON, 5 vols. 4to. 1810. London. - - ALZATE, DON J. A. Descripcion de las Antiguedadas de Xochicalco. - Mexico. 1791. - - ANQUETIL, Precis de l'Histoire Universelle, 12 vols, Paris, 1801. - - ANSON'S Voyage round the world. - - Astronomical, Barometrical and Trigonometrical Observations in the - Equinoctial Regions of America, from 12 deg. of south latitude to the - 41 deg. of north latitude, by M. de HUMBOLDT, in French, 2 vols. Paris. - - AUBLET, Histoire des Plantes de la Guyane Francoise. - - Aurora o Correo Politico-economico de la Havanah. - - AZARA, Voyage dans l'Amerique Meridionale de Juin, 1781 jusqu'a 1801. - 4 vols Translation, 1809, 8vo. - - AZARA, DON FELIX DE, Essais sur l'Histoire Naturelle des Quadrupedes - du Paraguay, 2 vols. Paris, 1801. - - - BANCROFT'S Natural History of Guiana. - - BEAUCHAMP, Histoire de la Conquete et des Revolutions du Perou, 2 - vols. Paris, 1801. - - BERNAL DIAZ, Historia de la Conquista del Mexico. - - BERENGER, Collection Abregee des Voyages autour du Monde, 9 vols. - Paris, 1789-90. - - BIGGS' History of Miranda's attempt to Revolutionize South America, - 8vo. 1 vol. - - BORDA, Voyage de la Flore. - - BOTURINI'S BERNADUCCI, Historical Essay on New Spain. - - BOUGAINVILLE, Voyage autour du monde. - - BOUGUER, Figure de la Terre, 1 vol. 4to. Paris, 1749. - - BUFFON, Histoire Naturelle, 54 vols. Aux Deux Ponts, 1785-90. - - - CARLI, J. R. COMTE DE, Lettres Americaines, 2 vols. Boston, 1788. - - CATERI, 1697. - - CARDENAS, Historia de la Florida. - - CHAPPE D'AUTEROCHE, Voyage en Californie. - - Cronica del Peru, por PIEDRO de CIECA DE LEON, 1554. - - CHARLEVOIX, Histoire du Paraguay. - - CHURRUCA, Apendice a la Relacion del Viage al Magellanes, 1790. - - CLAVIGERO, Storia Antica di Messico. - - COLNETT'S Voyage to the South Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, 4to. 1 vol. - - CONDAMINE, Voyage a l'Equateur. Paris, 1745. - - Comentarias Reales de los Incas, por GARCILASSO DE LA VEGA. - - COOK'S Voyages round the World. 7 vols. - - Correspondence du Ferd. Cortez avec Charles V. sur la Conquete du - Mexique. Francfort, 1775. - - COSME BUENO, Descripcion del Peru. - - Cronica Serafica de Queretaro, 1792. Mexico. - - - DAMPIER'S Voyages, 4 vols. 8vo. London, 1729. - - DEPONS, F., Voyage a la Terre Firme dans l'Amerique Meridionale, - 1801-4, 3 vols. Paris, 1806. - - DES MARCHAIS, les Voyages de, par LABAT, 4 vols. - - DOBRIZHOFFER, de Abiponibus. Vienna, 1784. - - Due Antichi Monumenti di Architettura Messicana Illustrati, da PIETRO - MARQUES. Rome, 1804. - - DU PRATZ, Voyages dans la Louisiane, 3 vols. Paris, 1758. - - - El Viajero Universal, por ESTALLA. Madrid, 1796. - - EQUIARA, Bibliotheca Mexicana. - - Equinoctial Plants of America, 2 vols. folio, (French) by HUMBOLDT. - - Essai sur la Geographie des Plantes, &c. par HUMBOLDT. - - - FALKNER'S Patagonia. - - FERNANDEZ or HERNANDEZ, Nova Hispania. - - FEYJOO, Relacion de la Ciudad de Truxillo, 1763. - - FLEURIEU, Voyage de l'Isis, dans 1768 et 1769. - - FORBES' Oriental Memoirs, containing Observations on parts of South - America, 4 vols. - - FREZIER, Voyages de, 2 vols. 12mo. 1717. - - - GAP'S Voyage of Lewis and Clarke to the Pacific, 8vo. - - GAGE, on Spanish North America, 1655, folio. - - GALLEANO Viage al Estrecho de Magellanes. - - Gazetta de Literatura de Mexico, a periodical publication. Mexico. - - GEMELLI CARRERI, Giro del Mondo. Naples, 1699. 6 vols. - - GILIJ, Saggio di Storia Americana, or Storia di Terra Firma, 4 vols. - 1780. Rome. - - GOMARA, Conquista de Mexico, 1553, folio. Medina del Campo. - - ----, Cronica General de las Indias, 1553, folio. - - GRYNAEI, Novus Orbus, 1555. - - GUMILLA, Orinoco Illustrada. - - - HENDERSON'S account of the British Settlements of Honduras. - - HERRERA Descripcion de las Indias Occidentales. Madrid, 1730. - - History of Chili, by MOLINA, English translation, 2 vols. - - Historia de la Nueva Espana escrita por Don Hernando Cortez y - aumentado por LORENZANA. - - History of the Settlements of the Europeans in the East and West - Indies, by RAYNAL, 8 vols. - - Historia del Nuevo Mundo, GIROLAMO BENZONI. - - HORN de Originibus Americanus, 1699. - - HUMBOLDT'S Political Essay on New Spain, 4 vols. 8vo. London. - - HUMBOLDT'S Personal Narrative of Travels in America, 3 vols. 8vo. - London. - - ---- Tableau de la Nature, 2 vols. Paris. - - ---- Monographie de la Melastomas, rhexia, &c. 2 vols. folio, Paris. - - ---- Observations sur la Zoologie, &c., 2 vols. 4to. Paris. - - ---- Vues des Cordilleres, &c., 1 vol. folio, Paris. - - ---- Researches, 2 vols. 8vo. London. - - - JEFFREYS on the Spanish West India Islands, 1762, 4to. London. - - Journal of ANDREW ELLICOTT, Commissioner for determining the - Boundaries of Ohio and Mississippi, &c.; 1803. - - - KERR'S Collection of Voyages and Discoveries. - - KNOX'S Collection of Voyages. - - KOSTER'S Travels in Brazil. - - - La Florida del Inca, Madrid, 1723. - - La Guia de Forasteros (Annual Almanac of Mexico); Mexico. - - LABAT'S Voyages to the West Indies, 6 vols. 8vo. - - LAET, Orbis Novus, 1633. - - LAVAYSSE (DAUXION), Voyage aux Isles de Trinidad, de Tabago, de la - Marguerite, et dans diverses Parties de Venezuela, 2 vols. Paris, 1813. - - LEBLOND (J. P.), Voyage aux Antilles et a l'Amerique Meridionale, 1797 - et 1802, 2 vols. 8vo. Paris. 1813. - - LEDRU, Voyage aux Isles de Teneriffe, Porto Rico, &c.; 1796-1798; 2 - vols. Paris, 1810. - - Lettre de Monsieur Godin. - - LOCKMAN'S Travels of the Jesuits. - - - MALTE BRUN, Precis de la Geographie Universelle; 3 vols. and 2 vols. - of maps, Paris, 1810. - - MAWE'S Travels in the Interior of Brazil, and Account of the - Revolution in Buenos Ayres; 4to. - - MARCHAND, Voyage autour du Monde, 1790-2; 5 vols. 4to. Paris, - 1798-1800. - - MARIETA, Historia eccleslastica, 1596. - - Memoirs of the Jesuits concerning California, 3 vols, 4to. Madrid, - 1757. - - Mercurio Peruiano (a literary periodical work), Lima. - - MICHAUX, Voyage a l'ouest des Monts Alleghany, 1804. - - MUNORZ, Historia del Nuevo Mundo. - - - Notes on the Viceroyalty of La Plata; London. - - Noticia de la California del Padre Fray MIGUEL VENEGAS, 1757. - - - OEXEMELIA'S (OLIVER) History of the Bucaniers, 1686. - - Origen de los Indios del Nuevo Mundo por P. GARCIA, Valencia, 1610. - - Observaciones sobre el Clima de Lima, por el Doctor DON HIPOLITO - UNANUE, Lima, 1806. - - OVIEDO, Historia natural de Indias. - - - PAUW, Recherches Philosophiques sur les Americains, 1769. - - PEROUSE (La), Voyage autour du Monde, 1785-1788, redige par M. L. A. - Millet-Mureau, 4 vols. Paris, 1798. - - PEREZ DE ROXAS, Historia de Cinaloa. - - PINCKARD'S Notes on the West Indies, 2 vols. - - PINKERTON'S Modern Geography, 2 vols. 8vo. - - PIEDRAHITA (LUCAS FERNANDEZ, EL OBISPO), Historia General de las - Conquistas del Nuevo Reyno de Granada. - - POTERAT (Marquis de), Journal d'un Voyage au Cap de Horn, au Chili, au - Perou, &c., 1795-1800, Paris, 1815. - - PURCHAS' Pilgrim; a collection of curious voyages, in 5 vols. - - - RAYNAL, Histoire Politique et Philosophique des Etablissemens et du - Commerce des Europeens dans les deux Indes, 10 vols. et Atlas, Geneva, - 1780. - - Relations des diverses Voyages curieux, par M. M. THEVENOT. - - ROBERTSON'S History of America. - - ROBIN, Voyage dans l'interieure de la Floride occidentale, &c., - 1802-1806, 3 vols. - - RUIZ (HYP.) Y JOSE PAVON, Flora Peruviana, 3 vols. Madrid, 1798--1802. - - - SEMPLE'S Sketch of the present State of the Caraccas. - - Sir Francis Drake's Voyages, London, 1653, 4to. - - SKINNER on Peru. - - SOLIS, Historia de la Conquista de Mexico y de Nueva Espana, por - Josse, 3 vols. - - SOLORZANO PEREIRA, de Indiarum jure. - - SOUTHEY'S History of Brazil, 4to. - - STEDMAN'S History of Surinam. - - - THOU (I. A. DE), Universal History, 1543-1610; 16 vols. London, 1734. - - TORQUEMADA, Monarquia Indiana, 3 vols. folio. 1615. - - TOURON, Histoire Generale de l'Ameriquedepuis sa decouverte, 14 vols. - Paris, 1768-1770. - - TUCKEY'S Maritime Geography. - - - ULLOA and JUAN'S Voyage to South America, 2 vols. 8vo. (English - translation.) - - UNANUE, Guia Politica del Peru (periodical). - - - VATER, Inquiries into the Population of the New Continent (German). - - VANCOUVER'S Voyage round the World. - - Vida del Padre Fray J. Serro, Mexico, 1787. - - Vida del Almirante Colon por FERNANDO COLON. - - VIDAURRE, Compendio del Chili, 8vo. Bologna, 1776. - - VOLNEY, Tableau du Climat et du Sol des Etats Unis. - - Voyage a la Recherche de La Perouse, par M. D'Entrecasteaux. - - Voyage au Perou, 1791-1794, par les P. P. Manuel Sobreviella, et - Narcisso y Barcel, 2 vols. with an Atlas, in 4to. Paris, 1809. - - Vue de la Colonie Espagnole de Mississippi, en 1802, Paris, 1803. - - - WAFER'S Description of the Isthmus of Darien, 1699. - - WALTON'S Present State of the Spanish Colonies, 2 vols. London. - - WILCOCKE'S History of the Viceroyalty of Buenos Ayres, 1806. - - - Ydea de una Nueva Historia General de la America Septentrional, por - BOTURINI. - - - ZARATE, Histoire de la Conquete du Perou; Paris, 1742. - - ZOEGA, de Origine et usu Obeliscorum. - - - - -TABLE OF THE LATITUDES AND LONGITUDES OF SOME OF THE PRINCIPAL PLACES -IN _SPANISH AMERICA_, CORRECTED FROM THE LATEST INFORMATION, WITH THE -NUMBER OF INHABITANTS IN THE CHIEF TOWNS. - - - +-------------------+-----------+-----------+----------+------------------+ - | | Government| Latitude |Longitude | Number | - | Places. | or | north or | west of | of | - | | Situation.| south. |Greenwich.| Inhabitants. | - +-------------------+-----------+-----------+----------+------------------+ - | | |D. M. S. | D. M. S. | | - |Abancay |Peru |13 30 0 S.| 72 26 0 | | - |_Acapulco_ |New Spain |16 15 29 N.| 99 48 18 |4000. | - |Aconcagua, or} | | | | | - | San Felipe} |Chili |32 48 0 S.| | | - | | | | |{2750 families of | - | | | | |{Indians, and 50 | - |Actopan |New Spain |20 19 30 N.| 98 49 0 |{families of | - | | | | |{whites and | - | | | | |{castes. | - |Adais, or Adayes} |New Spain |32 9 0 N.| 93 35 0 | | - |Fort} | | | | | - | | | | |{500 families of | - | | | | |{whites, and many | - | | | | |{castes; famous | - |Aguas Calientes |New Spain |22 2 0 N.|101 51 30 |{for its hot | - | | | | |{springs | - | | | | |{impregnated with | - | | | | |{copper. | - |Aguatulco |New Spain |15 44 0 N.| | | - |Alangi, or El Angel|New Granada| 8 12 0 N.| 80 40 0 | | - |Alausi |New Granada| 2 12 0 N.| 78 39 0 | | - |Albuquerque |New Spain |29 35 0 N.| 79 40 0 |6000. | - |Almaguer |New Granada| 1 56 0 N.| 76 54 0 | | - |Alvarado |New Spain |18 40 0 N.| 96 36 0 | | - |Amapalla |Guatimala |13 12 0 N.| 87 55 0 | | - |Amatiques |Guatimala |15 23 0 N.| 89 0 0 | | - |Amotape |Peru | 4 50 0 S.| 80 42 0 | | - |Amparaes |La Plata |19 12 0 S.| 67 3 0 | | - |Anco |Peru |13 14 0 S.| 73 10 0 | | - |Andahuailas |Peru |13 25 0 S.| 73 4 0 | | - |Antonio de Bejar |New Spain |29 50 0 N.|101 0 0 |2000. | - | | | | |{Populous, and an | - |Antonio de los Cues|New Spain |18 3 0 N.| |{ ancient Aztec | - | | | | |{ fortress. | - |Antonio de la }| | | | | - | Florida }|Chili |33 39 0 S.| 71 41 0 | | - |Apalachia |Florida |29 43 0 N.| 84 28 0 | | - |_Apurimac_, source}|Peru |16 {10 or | |{Near the city of | - | of }| | {20 S.| |{ Arequipa. | - |Archidona |New Granada| 0 45 0 S.| 76 48 0 |700. | - |_Arequipa_ |Peru |16 16 0 S.| 71 58 0 |24,000. | - |Arica |Peru |18 26 0 S.| 70 18 0 | | - |Arispe |New Spain |30 36 0 N.|108 58 15 |7600. | - | | | | |{500 white | - | | | | |{ families, and | - |_Asuncion_ |La Plata |24 47 0 S.| 59 35 0 |{ several | - | | | | |{ thousands of | - | | | | |{ Indians and | - | | | | |{ mestizoes. | - |Atacama |La Plata |23 30 0 S.| 69 30 0 | | - |Atrato, mouths of }|Gulf of }| | |{Rises in the | - | the }| Darien }| 8 2 0 N.| 77 6 0 |{ mountains of | - | | | | |{ Choco, and runs | - | | | | |{ 95 leagues. | - |Atunxauxa |Peru |11 45 0 S.| 75 48 0 | | - |Avila |New Granada| 0 44 0 S.| 76 25 0 |300. | - |Austria, San }| | | | | - | Felipe de }|Caraccas |10 31 0 N.| 63 41 0 |250 families. | - | | | | | | - |Babahoyo |New Granada| 1 47 0 S.| |Populous. | - |Baracoa |Cuba |21 4 0 N.| 76 10 0 | | - |Baranca del Malambo|New Granada|11 40 0 N.| 74 30 0 | | - |Barbacoas |New Granada| 1 42 0 S.| 78 8 0 | | - |_Barcelona_ |Caraccas |10 10 0 N.| 64 47 0 |14,000. | - |Barquisimeto |Caraccas | 8 55 0 N.| 66 55 0 |11,300. | - |Batabano |Cuba |22 43 19 N.| 82 25 41 | | - |Bayamo |Cuba |20 46 0 N.| 76 55 0 | | - |Borja |New Granada| 4 28 0 N.| 76 24 0 | | - |BUENOS AYRES |La Plata |34 35 26 S.| 57 24 0 |60,000. | - |Buga |New Granada| 2 58 0 N.| | | - | | | | | | - |Cadiz |Cuba |23 2 0 N.| 79 55 0 | | - |Calabozo |Caraccas | 8 40 0 N.| |4800. | - |Cali |New Granada| 3 15 0 N.| 73 16 0 | | - |Callao |Peru |12 3 42 S.| 77 14 0 | | - |_Campeche_ |New Spain |19 50 45 N.| 90 30 30 |6000. | - |Carabaya |La Plata |14 40 0 S.| 69 36 0 | | - |CARACCAS |Caraccas |10 30 15 N.| 67 4 45 |20,000. | - |Cariaco |Caraccas |10 30 0 N.| 63 39 0 |6500. | - |Carora |Caraccas |10 0 0 N.| |6200. | - |_Carthagena_ |New Granada|10 26 36 N.| 75 26 45 |25,000. | - |Carthago |New Spain | 9 5 0 N.| 83 0 0 | | - |Carthago |New Granada| 4 46 0 N.| |5 or 6000. | - |Casas Grandes |New Spain |33 30 0 N.| |Near the Rio Gila.| - |Castro |Chiloe |42 40 0 S.| |150. | - |Castrovireyna |Peru |12 50 0 S.| 74 45 0 | | - | | | | |{Celebrated for | - | | | | |{the palace of the| - | | | | |{Incas it | - | | | | |{contains, which | - |Caxamarca |Peru | 8 0 0 S.| 76 10 0 |{is at present | - | | | | |{inhabited by some| - | | | | |{of their | - | | | | |{descendants. | - | | | | |{Population 2000. | - |Cayman Grande } |Caribbean | | | | - | Isle, east point} | Sea |19 19 0 N.| 80 38 49 | | - |Caymanbrack, east }|Caribbean | | | | - | point }| Sea |19 40 0 N.| 79 47 22 | | - |Cerro de Axusco, } | | | | | - | mountain } |New Spain |19 15 27 N.| 99 12 30 | | - |Chachapoyas or }| | | | | - | Juan de la }|Peru | 6 12 0 S.| 72 28 0 | | - | Frontera }| | | | | - |Chancay |Peru |11 33 47 S | - - - |Populous. | - |_Chiapa Real_ |Guatimala |17 0 0 N.| 93 23 0 |500 families. | - |Chiapa de los }| | | | | - | Indios }|Guatimala |17 5 0 N.| 93 53 0 |20,000. | - |Chihuahua |New Spain |28 50 0 N.|104 29 45 |11,600. | - |Chillan |Chili |35 56 0 S.| - - - |Populous | - |Cholula |New Spain |19 2 6 N.| 98 7 45 |16,000. | - |Cholula, Pyramid } | | | | | - | of } |New Spain |19 2 6 N.| 98 12 15 | | - |_Chuquisaca_ or }| | | | | - | _La Plata_ }|La Plata |19 40 0 S.| 66 46 0 |14,000. | - |Cinaloa |New Spain |26 0 0 N.|106 0 0 |9500. | - |Coche, Isle of } |Caribbean | | | | - | east cape }| Sea |10 45 0 N.| 63 51 38 | | - |Cofre de Perote, } | | | | | - | mountain } |New Spain |19 28 57 N.| 97 8 34 | | - |Colchagua or San }| | | | | - | Fernando }|Chili |34 18 0 S.| - - - |1500 families | - |Colonia del } | | | | | - | Sacramento } |La Plata |34 22 0 S.| 57 52 0 | | - |_Comayaguaso_ or }| | | | | - | Valladolid }|Guatimala |14 30 0 N.| 88 19 0 | | - |Concepcion del Pao |Caraccas | 8 42 0 N.| 65 10 0 |2300. | - |_Concepcion_ |Chili |36 47 0 S.| 73 9 0 |13,000. | - |Concepcion |La Plata |23 23 0 S.| 57 16 0 |1550. | - |Copiapo |Chili |26 50 0 S.| 70 18 0 |400 families. | - |Coquimbo or La }| | | |{500 families of | - | Serena }|Chili |29 52 0 S.| 71 19 0 |{whites, &c., | - | }| | | |{and some Indians.| - |Cordova |New Spain |18 50 0 N.| 96 56 0 |800 families. | - |Cordova |La Plata |31 30 0 S.| 63 16 0 |5500. | - |_Coro_ |Caraccas |11 24 0 N.| 69 40 0 |10,000. | - |Corientes, Cape |Pacific |20 25 30 N.|105 38 45 | | - |Coulemu |Chili |36 2 0 S.| - - - | | - |Cuenca |New Granada| 2 53 49 S.| 79 14 40 |20,000. | - |_Cumana_ |Caraccas |10 27 52 N.| 64 9 47 |16,800. | - |Cumana, port of |Caraccas |10 28 0 N.| 64 9 45 | | - |Cumanacoa |Caraccas |10 16 11 N.| - - - |2300. | - |Curuguaty |La Plata |24 28 0 S.| 56 54 0 |2250. | - |Cuzcatlan |Guatimala |13 40 0 N.| 89 20 0 |5000. | - |_Cuzco_ |Peru |13 25 0 S.| 71 15 0 |32,000. | - | | | | | | - |_Durango_ |New Spain |24 25 0 N.|103 34 45 |12,000. | - | | | | | | - |Fort Buenavista |New Spain |27 45 0 N.|110 7 15 | | - |Fort del Altar |New Spain |31 2 0 N.|111 45 45 | | - |Fort del Passage |New Spain |25 28 0 N.|103 12 15 | | - |Fort Passo del }| | | | | - | Norte }|New Spain |32 9 0 N.|104 42 45 | | - | | | | | | - |Gibraltar |Caraccas |10 4 0 N.| 67 36 0 | | - |Gracias a Dios |Guatimala |14 30 0 N.| 90 6 0 | | - |Granada |Guatimala |11 15 0 N.| 86 15 0 | | - |_Guadalaxara_ |New Spain |21 9 0 N.|103 2 15 |19,500. | - |Gualqui |Chili |36 44 0 S.| - - - | | - |_Guamanga_ |Peru |12 50 0 S.| 77 56 0 |26,000. | - |Guanara |Caraccas | 8 14 0 N.| 69 54 0 |12,000. | - |_Guanaxuato_ |New Spain |21 0 15 N.|100 54 45 |70,600. | - |_Guancavelica_ |Peru |12 45 0 S.| 74 46 0 |5200. | - |Guanta |Peru |12 30 0 S.| 74 16 0 | | - | | | | |{Near the sources | - |Guanuco |Peru | 9 59 0 S.| 75 56 0 |{ of the False | - | | | | |{ Maranon. | - |Guarochiri |Peru |11 55 0 S.| 76 18 0 | | - |GUATIMALA |Guatimala |14 28 0 N.| 92 40 0 |19,000. | - |_Guaxaca_ |New Spain |17 30 0 N.| - - - |24,000. | - |_Guayaquil_ |New Granada| 2 12 0 S.| 79 6 0 |10,000. | - |Guayra |Caraccas |10 36 19 N.| 67 6 45 |8000. | - | | | | | | - |Hacha |New Granada|11 28 0 N.| 72 46 0 | | - |Hambato |New Granada| 1 14 0 S.| 78 25 0 |9000. | - |HAVANNAH |Cuba |23 9 27 N.| 82 22 53 |25,000. | - |Honda |New Granada| 5 16 0 N.| 72 36 15 | | - | | | | | | - |Jaen |New Granada| 5 25 0 S.| - - - |4000. | - |Janos or Yanos, }| | | | | - | fort }|New Spain | - - - |106 45 15 | | - |Ica or Valverde |Peru |13 50 0 S.| 75 28 0 |6000. | - |Jorullo Volcano |New Spain | - - - |101 1 30 | | - |Juan de los Llanos |New Granada| 3 0 0 N.| 73 26 0 | | - |Juan Fernandez, }| | | |{110 Leagues from | - | Isle }|Pacific |33 40 0 S.| 80 30 0 |{ the coast of | - | }| | | |{ Chili. | - | | | | | | - |Iztaccihuatl, }| | | | | - | volcano }|New Spain |19 10 0 N.| 98 34 45 | | - | | | | | | - |Lambayeque |Peru | 6 40 0 S.| 79 56 0 |8000. | - |Lampa |La Plata |14 55 0 S.| 81 44 0 | | - |_La Paz_ |La Plata |17 15 0 S.| 68 25 0 |20,000. | - |Las Corrientes |La Plata |27 32 0 S.| 57 50 0 | | - |_Latacunga_ |New Granada| 0 55 14 S.| 78 16 0 |12,000. | - |LIMA |Peru |12 2 25 S.| 77 7 15 |54,000. | - |Lipes |La Plata |21 40 0 S.| 68 16 0 | | - | | | | |{Founded in honour| - |Londres |La Plata |19 12 0 S.| |{ of Mary Queen of| - | | | | |{ England. | - |Loxa |New Granada| 4 0 0 S.| 79 14 0 |10,000. | - | | | | | | - |Macas |New Granada| 2 30 0 S.| 78 5 0 |1200. | - |_Magdalena_, }|Caribbean | | | | - |mouths of }| Sea |11 0 0 N.| 74 40 0 |Main Channel. | - |Maldonado |La Plata |34 50 0 S.| 55 36 0 | | - |_Maracaybo_ |Caraccas |10 30 0 N.| 71 46 0 |24,000. | - |MARANON }|Atlantic | 0 30 0 S.|{47 40 0 | | - | Mouths of }| Ocean | |{49 25 0 | | - |Mariquita |New Granada| 5 16 0 N.| 74 6 0 |300. | - |Mas-afuera, Isle, |{Pacific | | | | - | |{ Ocean |33 47 0 S.| 80 41 0 | | - |Mayobamba |Peru | 7 0 0 S.| 76 56 0 | | - |Melipilla |Chili |33 28 0 S.| 70 7 0 | | - |_Mendoza_ |La Plata |33 25 0 S.| 69 47 0 |6000. | - | | | | |{Limit of the | - | | | | |{ Conquests | - |Mercaderes |New Granada| 1 45 0 N.| - - - |{ of the Peruvian | - | | | | |{ Incas to the | - | | | | |{ north. | - |_Merida_ |New Granada| 8 10 0 N.| 73 45 0 |11,000. | - |MEXICO |New Spain |19 25 45 N.| 99 5 15 |137,000. | - |Mompox |New Granada| 9 19 0 N.| 74 11 0 | | - |Moquehua |Peru |17 20 0 S.| 70 56 0 |Populous. | - |_Monte Video_ |La Plata |34 54 48 S.| 56 14 30 |20,000. | - |Monterey |New Spain |36 36 0 N.|121 51 6 |700. | - |Moran-mine |New Spain |20 10 4 N.| 98 25 45 | | - | | | | | | - |Nasca |Peru |14 48 0 S.| 75 6 0 | | - |Nata |New Granada| 8 35 0 N.| 81 6 0 | | - |Neembucu |La Plata |26 52 0 S.| 58 11 0 |1730. | - |Nevado de Toluca, }| | | | | - | mountain }|New Spain |19 11 33 N.| 99 25 23 | | - |Neyva |New Granada| 3 10 0 N.| 74 16 0 | | - |Nicoya |Guatimala |10 42 0 N.| 85 53 0 | | - |Nirgua |Caraccas |10 0 0 N.| - - - |3200. | - | | | | | | - |Ocana |New Granada| 7 50 0 N.| 73 26 0 | | - |Omoa |Guatimala |15 50 0 N.| 89 53 0 | | - | | | | |{Boca de los | - |ORINOCO, mouths of|Atlantic | 8 30 0 N.| 59 50 0 |{ Navios or | - | | | | |{ Great Estuary. | - |Oropesa |La Plata |18 15 0 S.| 67 6 0 | | - |Otabalo |New Granada| 0 15 0 N.| 77 56 0 |15,000. | - | | | | | | - |Pamplona |New Granada| 6 30 0 N.| 71 36 0 | | - |_Panama_ |New Granada| 9 0 30 N.| 79 19 0 | | - |Paria |La Plata |18 50 0 S.| 68 20 0 | | - |Pasquaro |New Spain | - - - |101 19 45 |6000. | - |Payta |Peru | 5 5 0 S.| 80 50 0 | | - |PENSACOLA |Florida |30 28 0 N.| 87 12 0 | | - | | | | | | - |Perdido, mouth of |{Mexican | | |{Boundary between | - | |{ Gulf |30 26 0 N.| 87 26 0 |{ the United | - | | | | |{ States and | - | | | | |{ Florida. | - |Petatlan hill |New Spain |17 32 0 N.|101 28 30 | | - |Petorca |Chili |31 45 0 S.| 76 50 0 |Populous. | - |Pico de Orizaba, }| | | | | - | mountain of }|New Spain |19 2 17 N.| 97 15 0 | | - |Piedra Blanca |New Spain |21 33 0 N.|105 27 30 | | - |Pisco |Peru |13 46 0 S.| 76 9 0 |300 Families. | - |Piura, or San }| | | |{7000. The oldest | - | Miguel }|Peru | 5 11 0 S.| 80 36 0 |{ city of South | - | | | | |{ America. | - |Pomabamba |La Plata |19 55 0 S.| 64 8 0 | | - |_Popayan_ |New Granada| 2 28 38 N.| 76 31 30 |25,000. | - |Popocatepetl, }| | | | | - | mountain }|New Spain |18 59 47 N.| 98 33 0 | | - |Porco |La Plata |19 40 0 S.| 67 56 0 | | - |Pore |New Granada| 5 40 0 N.| 72 13 0 |500. | - |Porto Bello |Do. |10 27 0 N.| 79 26 0 | | - |_Potosi_ |La Plata |19 47 0 S.| 67 22 0 |30,000. | - |_Puebla de los_ }| | | | | - | _Angelos_ }|New Spain |19 0 15 N.| 98 2 30 |67,800. | - |Puerto Cabello |Caraccas |10 20 0 N.| 69 11 0 |8000. | - |PUERTO RICO |Puerto Rico|18 29 0 N.| 66 0 0 |Populous. | - |Puna |La Plata |16 20 0 S.| 70 26 0 |Populous. | - |Punta del Ana }| | | | | - | Nueva, or Mission}|New Spain |37 9 15 N.|122 23 38 |440. | - | of Santa }| | | | | - | Cruz }| | | | | - | | | | | | - |Queretaro |New Spain |20 36 39 N.|100 10 15 |35,000. | - |Quillota |Chili |32 50 0 S.| 71 18 0 | | - |QUITO |New Granada| 0 13 27 S.| 78 10 15 |70,000. | - | | | | | | - |_Rancagua_, or }| | | | | - | Santa Cruz de }|Chili |34 18 0 S.| 70 42 0 | | - | Triana }| | | | | - |Real de Rosario } | | | | | - | mine } |New Spain |23 30 0 N.|106 6 15 |5600. | - |Real de los Alamos}| | | | | - | mine }|Do. |27 8 0 N.|109 3 15 |7900. | - |Realexo |Guatimala |12 45 0 N.| 87 30 0 | | - |_Riobamba_ |New Granada| 1 20 0 S.| 78 30 0 |20,000. | - |Rio Bravo del }|Gulf of }| | | | - | Norte, mouth }| Mexico }|25 55 0 N.| 97 30 55 | | - | of }| | | | | - | | | | |{Cape Santa Maria,| - |RIO DE LA PLATA, } | | | |{ 180 miles north | - | mouth of } |Atlantic |35 30 0 S.| 55 6 0 |{ of the South | - | | | | |{ Cape, St. | - | | | | |{ Antonio. | - |Rioja |La Plata |29 12 0 S.| 70 0 0 | | - | | | | | | - |Salamanca |New Spain |20 40 0 N.|100 54 45 | | - |Salta |La Plata |24 17 0 S.| 64 1 30 | | - | | | | |{Boundary between | - |Saint Mary's }|Atlantic |30 35 0 N.| 81 41 0 |{ the United | - | River, mouth of }| | | |{ States and | - | | | | |{ Florida. | - |Santander |New Spain |23 45 18 N.| 98 12 8 | | - |San Antonio Cape |Cuba |21 55 0 N.| 84 56 7 | | - |SAN AUGUSTIN |Florida |29 58 0 N.| 81 40 0 |4000. | - |San Bernardo de }| | | | | - | Tarija }|La Plata |22 14 0 S.| 65 20 0 | | - |San Blas |New Spain |21 32 48 N.|105 15 33 | | - |San Carlos |Chiloe |41 57 0 S.| 73 58 0 |1100. | - |San Carlos |Caraccas | 9 20 0 N.| - - - |9500. | - |San Diego mission |New Spain |32 39 30 N.|117 18 0 |1560. | - |San Felipe, or }| | | | | - | Cocorata }|Caraccas |10 15 0 N.| - - - |6800. | - |San Francisco }| | | | | - | mission }|New Spain |37 48 30 N.|122 36 45 |820. | - |San Josef mission |New Spain |23 3 25 N.|109 40 53 | | - |San Juan del Rio |New Spain | - - - | 99 52 15 | | - |San Juan mission |New Spain |33 29 0 N.|117 5 1 |1000. | - |San Juan de la }| | | | | - | Frontera }|La Plata |33 25 0 S.| 68 55 5 |6000. | - |San Joan del Pao |Caraccas | 9 20 0 N.| - - - |5400. | - |San Juan de Pasto |New Granada| 1 15 0 N.| 76 46 0 |7000. | - |San Lazaro, }| | | | | - | mountain }|New Spain |24 47 0 N.|112 21 0 | | - |San Lucas, cape |New Spain |22 55 23 N.|109 50 23 | | - |San Luis de Cura |Caraccas | 9 45 0 N.| - - - |4000. | - |San Luis de Gonzaga|Chili |36 45 0 S.| | | - |_San Luis de_ }| | | | | - | _Zacatecas_ }|New Spain |23 0 0 N.|101 34 45 |33,000. | - |San Miguel de } | | | | | - | Ibarra } |New Granada| 0 5 0 N.| 77 40 0 |10,000. | - |San Salvador |Guatimala |13 40 0 N.| 89 20 0 |5000. | - |San Sebastian de }| | | | | - | los Reyes }|Caraccas | 9 54 0 N.| - - - |3500. | - |San Sebastian del} | | | | | - | Oro, or La Plata} |New Granada| 2 50 0 N.| 75 0 0 | | - |Santa Barbara, }| | | | | - | mission }|New Spain |34 26 0 N.|119 45 15 |1090. | - |Santa Buenaventura |New Spain |34 17 0 N.|119 25 15 |940. | - |Santa Fe |New Spain |36 12 0 N.|104 52 45 |3600. | - |SANTA FE, or BOGOTA|New Granada| 4 6 0 N.| 78 30 0 |30,000. | - |Santa Fe de }| | | | | - | Antioquia }|New Granada| 6 48 0 N.| 74 36 0 | | - |Santa Marta |New Granada|11 19 2 N.| 74 4 30 | | - |SANTIAGO |Chili |33 26 0 S.| 70 44 0 |36,000. | - |Santiago del Estero|La Plata |27 46 0 S.| 65 12 0 |500 Families. | - |_Santo Tome_ |Caraccas | 8 8 11 N.| 63 54 2 |6 or 8000. | - |Sechura |Peru | 5 32 33 S.| - - - |400 Families. | - |Silla de Caraccas }| | | | | - | mountain, }|Caraccas |10 31 15 N.| 64 40 55 | | - | highest-peak }| | | | | - |Sisal |New Spain |21 10 0 N.| 89 59 30 |{Port of Merida de| - | | | | |{ Yucatan. | - |Soconusco |Guatimala |15 28 0 N.| 94 36 0 | | - |Socorro, Isle |Pacific |18 48 0 N.|110 9 0 | | - |Suchitepeque |Guatimala |14 44 0 N.| 93 36 0 |1480. | - | | | | | | - |Tabasco |New Spain |18 34 0 N.| 93 36 0 | | - |Tacames |New Granada| 0 52 0 N.| 62 0 0 | | - |Talca, or San }| | | | | - | Augustin }|Chili |35 13 0 S.| 71 1 0 |Populous. | - |_Tarma_ |Peru |11 35 0 S.| 75 17 0 |5600. | - |Tasco |New Spain |18 35 0 N.| 99 28 45 | | - | | | | |{2600 Families of | - |Tehuantepeque |New Spain |16 20 0 N.| 95 1 0 |{ Indians and 50 | - | | | | |{ of Whites. | - |Teneriffe |New Granada|10 2 0 N.| 74 30 0 | | - |Tezcuco |New Spain |19 30 40 N.| 98 51 0 | | - | | | | |{Famous for some | - |Tiahuanaco |La Plata |17 17 0 S.| - - - |{ singular | - | | | | |{ monuments. | - |Timana |New Granada| 2 12 0 N.| 74 46 0 | | - |Tocayma |New Granada| 4 16 0 N.| 74 59 0 |700. | - |Tocuyo |Caraccas | 9 35 0 N.| 70 20 0 |10,200. | - |Todos los Santos |New Spain |23 26 0 N.|110 18 0 | | - |Tolu |New Granada| 9 32 0 N.| 75 30 0 | | - |Tomina |La Plata |19 10 0 S.| 65 46 0 | | - |Tres Marias Isle }| | | | | - | south cape of }|Pacific |26 16 0 N.|106 17 30 | | - | the east isle }| | | | | - |Trinidad |Cuba |21 48 20 N.| 80 0 52 | | - |Truxillo |Guatimala |15 51 0 N.| 86 8 0 | | - |_Truxillo_ |Peru | 8 5 40 S.| 79 19 13 |5800. | - |Truxillo |Caraccas | 8 40 0 N.| - - - |7600. | - |_Tucuman_ |La Plata |26 49 0 S.| 64 36 0 | | - |Tumbez |Peru | 3 26 0 S.| 80 6 0 | | - |Tunja |New Granada| 5 5 0 N.| 72 56 0 |400. | - | | | | | | - |_Ucayale_, }| | | | | - | junction of, with}|New Granada| 4 55 0 S.| - - - |Forms the Maranon.| - | the False Maranon}| | | | | - | | | | | | - |Valdivia |Chili |40 5 0 S.| 80 5 0 |Populous. | - |Valencia |Caraccas |10 9 0 N.| 68 25 0 |8000. | - |_Valladolid_ |New Spain |19 42 0 N.|100 52 0 |18,000. | - |Valparaiso |Chili |33 0 30 S.| 71 38 15 |Populous. | - |Varinas |Caraccas | 7 40 0 N.| - - - |6000. | - |Velez |New Granada| 5 50 0 N.| 73 16 0 | | - |_Vera Cruz_ |New Spain |19 11 52 N.| 96 8 45 |16,000. | - |Vera paz, or Coban |Guatimala |15 50 0 N.| 91 14 0 | | - |Villa del Fuerte |New Spain |26 50 0 N.|108 13 15 | | - |Villa del Principe |Cuba |21 17 0 N.| 77 45 0 | | - |Villa Rica |La Plata |25 48 0 S.| 56 31 0 |3000. | - | | | | | | - |Xalapa |New Spain |19 30 8 N.| 96 54 45 |13,000. | - |Xagua, Boca de |Cuba | - - - | 80 34 7 | | - |Xuxui |La Plata |23 5 0 S | 66 2 0 | | - -To this table it will not be uninteresting to add a summary of the -population, &c., of the governments of Spanish America. - - Inhabitants. Inhabitants. - NEW SPAIN 6,500,000, of which its capital, MEXICO, has 137,000 - GUATIMALA 1,200,000, GUATIMALA 19,000 - CUBA 550,000, HAVANNAH 25,000 - PUERTO RICO 136,000, PUERTO RICO, very populous. - { SAN AUGUSTIN, has 4000 - FLORIDAS uncertain, { PENSACOLA. - { SANTA FE DE } - NEW GRANADA 1,800,000, { BOGOTA } 30,000 - CARACCAS 900,000, CARACCAS 20,000 - PERU 1,300,000, LIMA 54,000 - CHILI 800,000, SANTIAGO 36,000 - BUENOS AYRES} 1,100,000, BUENOS AYRES 60,000 - or LA PLATA} - ----------- - Making 14,286,000. - ----------- - -To which may be added 50,000 more for Cuba, as according to the latest -enquiries that island possesses a population of 600,000 souls; thus -there will be a total known population of 14,336,000, and allowing for -the inhabitants of the Floridas, and the unnumbered Indians of the -kingdom of La Plata, the actual number of persons existing under the -government of Spain in the Americas, will not fall short of fifteen -millions, while the Portuguese subjects in BRAZIL amount only to -3,300,000, of whom one million and a half are negroes, one million are -Indians and the rest whites. - -Of the above total of 14,336,000 souls, there are 3,000,000 whites born -in the country, 200,000 Europeans, and the remaining 11,136,000 are -Indians, negroes and mixed races, or castes, of which the Indians bear -by far the greater proportion, the negroes in Caraccas amounting to -54,000, in Cuba to 212,000; the other states having comparatively very -few slaves. - -The spaces which this mass of people occupy, in the different -governments, have been thus calculated: - - Square leagues. - NEW SPAIN extends over a surface equal to 118,748 - GUATIMALA 26,152 - CUBA and PUERTO RICO 6,921 - FLORIDAS 8,555 - NEW GRANADA 64,520 - CARACCAS 47,856 - PERU 30,390 - CHILI 22,574 - BUENOS AYRES or LA PLATA 143,014 - ------- - 468,730 - ------- - -Making an extent of country equal to 468,730 square leagues; whilst -GREAT BRITAIN, which has a population of 12,596,800 souls, occupies a -space equal only to 87,502 square miles. - -The MINES of the empire of Spanish America furnish annually in gold and -silver in-- - - L Sterling. - NEW SPAIN to the value of 5,030,800 - NEW GRANADA 507,000 - PERU and CHILI 1,730,000 - BUENOS AYRES or LA PLATA 882,000 - --------- - 8,149,800 - --------- - -Making a total of 8,149,800_l._ sterling; to which may be added more -than another million for the contraband trade. - -The COMMERCE of these countries annually averages in-- - - L Sterling. - Importations 12,826,500 - Exportations of agricultural produce 6,500,000 - Exportations of gold and silver 8,149,800 - -And the annual REVENUE is equal to nearly eight millions of pounds -sterling. - - - - -INDEX TO THE PRINCIPAL PLACES AND SUBJECTS TREATED OF IN THE FOREGOING -VOLUMES. - - - A - - _Abancay_, district and town of, Peru, ii. 143. - - _Abancay_, battle of the bridge of, ii. 98. - - _Abipons_ Indians, ii. 228. - - _Abolishment_ of the slave trade, ii. 22. - - _Acamapitzin_, King of Mexico, i. 109. - - _Acapulco_, city of Mexico, unhealthiness of, i. 34. - Great mart for New Spain and India, 41. - Description of, population, &c., 133. - - _Aconcagua_, city and province of, Chili, ii. 269. - - _Agave_, or aloe, supplies the liquor most drank in Mexico, and method - of making it, i. 39. - - _Aguas Calientes_, city of New Spain, i. 101. - - _Aguaracatay_, lake of La Plata, ii. 163. - - _Aguatulco_, town of New Spain, i. 153. - - _Aguilar Jeromimo_, found on the Isle of Cozumel, by Cortez, i. 196. - - _Ahuitzotl_, Mexican King, i. 113. - - _Aillavalu_ toqui or war chief of Chili, ii. 237. - - _Alamos_, mine of, New Spain, i. 92. - - _Alangi_, or St. Jago El Angel, town of Guatimala, i. 179. - - _Alausi_, city of New Granada, i. 320. - - _Albuquerque_, town of New Spain, i. 69. - - _Alcolhuacan_, kingdom, i. 103. - - _Alfinger_ and Sailler, German merchants, cruelties practised by, in - Caraccas, ii. 59. - - _Alligator_ of New Spain, i. 40. - Of New Granada, 257. 317. - - _Almagro_, revolt of, against Pizarro, ii. 97. - Conquest of Chili by, 234. - - _Almendral_, town of Chili, ii. 269. - - _Alpaco_ or Peruvian sheep, ii. 255. - - _Alto de Tiopullo_, chain of the, i. 300. - - _Alvarado_, expedition to Peru by, ii. 96. - - _Amalgamation_ works of New Spain; mercury consumed by the, i. 44. - - _Amatiques_, gulf, New Spain, i. 166. - - _Amazonia_, discovery of, by Orellana, i. 292. - - _Ambergris_ Key or Ubero Island, i. 197. - - _Amelia_ island, Florida, i. 19. - - _America_, Spanish, extent of, i. 208. - - _America_, Spanish, North, era of discovery of, i. 1. - Extent of, 4. - Political and territorial divisions, i. 6. - - _America_, Spanish, South, general idea of, i. 207. - Boundaries, 208. - Political divisions, _ib._ - Era of discovery, 209. - - _America_, Portuguese, population of, ii. 319. - - _Amerigo Vespucci_, publishes the first regular account of America, i. 3. - Voyages of, 211. - - _Amotape_, village of Peru, ii. 121. - - _Amparaes_, district of La Plata, ii. 178. - - _Ampolaba_, or Boa Constrictor of Tucuman, ii. 206. - - _Ampues_, first governor of Caraccas, ii. 20. - - _Anahuac_, ancient name of Mexico, i. 104. - - _Anahuac_, Cordillera of, i. 35. - Plain of _ib_. - - _Anco_, town of Peru, ii. 139. - - _Ancud_, gulf of, ii. 283. - - _Andagualas_, district and town of Peru, ii. 140. - - _Andalusia_, New. See _New Andalusia_. - - _Andero_, or St. Andres Isle, gulf of Mexico, i. 199. - - _Andes_, Cordillera of, in New Spain, i. 35. 68. - Description of the, 219. - - _Andes de Cuzco_, ii. 144. - - _Andes_ of Chili, ii. 248. - - _Angaraes_, district of Peru, ii. 134. - - _Angelos Puebla de los_, city of New Spain, i. 140. - - _Angostura_, or Santo Tome, capital of Guiana, ii. 4. - - _Animal_ food, the secondary article of human nourishment in - New Spain, i. 39. - - _Animals_ of New Spain, i. 40. - - _Antioquia_, or Santa Fe, province of New Granada, i. 271. - City of ditto, 272. - - _Antiquities_ of New Spain, i. 52. - - _Antonio_, St., Castle or Citadel of Cumana, ii. 27. - - _Apacheria_, country of New Spain, i. 72. - - _Apaches_, Indians, i. 72. 75. - - _Apalachia_, town of, Florida, i. 12. - River of, Florida, 15. - - _Apallachicola_, river, Florida, i. 14. - - _Apo-Ulmens_, chiefs of the Araucanians, ii. 290. - - _Apolabamba_, district of La Plata, ii. 191. - - _Apura_, or Apure, river of Caraccas, i. 262. ii. 66. - - _Apurimac_, river, i. 325. - Sources of, in Peru, ii. 149. - - _Araguato_, singular monkey in Caraccas, ii. 39. - - _Aranta_, town of, Peru, ii. 147. - - _Araucania_, or Indian Chili boundaries, extent, ii. 287. - - _Araucanian_ Indians, ii. 288. - - _Arauco_, river of Caraccas, ii. 67. - - _Araura_, town of Caraccas, ii. 57. - - _Araya_, salt works of, in Caraccas, ii. 30. - - _Archbishopric_ of Mexico, i. 48. - Of Lima, ii. 130. - - _Archidona_, town of Quito, i. 335. - - _Archipelago_ of Chiloe, ii. 283. - - _Arequipa_, intendancy of, in Peru, ii. 147. - - _Arequipa_, city of, Peru, scite, population, foundation, rivers, - climate, vicinity, trade, port, ii. 147. - Bishopric, public edifices, earthquakes at, 148. - - _Ari_, singular deity of the Muzos Indians, i. 270. - - _Arica_, district and city of, Peru, ii. 150. - - _Arispe_, city of, New Spain, i. 89. - - _Armadillo_, ii. 256. - - _Army_, of New Spain, i. 56. 61. - - _Aroa_, river of, Caraccas, ii. 45. - - _Arrival_ of the Spaniards in Peru, i. 288. - - _Asangaro y Asila_, district of, La Plata, ii. 188. - - _Asterillo_, port of Chili, ii. 276. - - _Astorpilcos_, descendants of the Peruvian Incas, ii. 125. - - _Ascension_, river, New Spain, i. 87. - - _Asuncion_, capital of Paraguay, ii. 203. - - _Atabalipa_, or Atahualpa, History of, in Quito, i. 286. - Fifteenth Inca of Peru, ii. 86. 90. - Death of, 94. - - _Atacama_, district and town of, La Plata, ii. 190. - - _Atacames_, government of. See Tacames. - - _Atavillos_, marquess of, title granted to Pizarro, ii. 96. - - _Atlixco_, town of, New Spain, i. 143. - - _Atrato_, river of, Darien, i. 240. - - _Atures_, cataract, i. 221. - - _Audienza_, Real, of New Spain, i. 33. 59. - - _Audienza_, Real, of Santa Fe de Bogota, i 214. - Of Quito, _ib._ - Of Lima, ii. 77. - Of Buenos Ayres, 171. - Of Los Charcas, 173. - - _Augustin_, San, capital of, East Florida, i. 11. - - _Avila_, town of Quito, i. 336. - - _Axayacatl_, King of Mexico, i. 112. - - _Ayaupa_, Isle of the Archipelago of Chonos, ii. 287. - - _Aymaraez_, district of, Peru, ii. 146. - - _Aztecas_, ancient Mexican people, i. 106. - - - B - - _Baba_, district of Quito, i. 313. - - _Babahoyo_, district of Quito, i. 312. - Town of ditto, 313. - - _Bacuachi_ fort, New Spain, i. 92. - - _Baeza_, town of Quito, i. 335. - - _Bahia Negra_, Spanish boundaries on the Paraguay, ii. 165. - - _Balize_, British settlement in Honduras, i. 173. - - _Balsas_, or Rafts of Guayaquil, i. 315. - - _Banana_, uses of the, in New Spain, i. 37. 244. - - _Baracoa_, town of Cuba, i. 191. - - _Baragan_, mountain of New Granada, i. 221. 276. - - _Baranca del Malambo_, town of New Granada, i. 250. - - _Barcelona_, province of. See _New Barcelona_. - - _Barcelona_, city of, in Caraccas, scite, foundation, - buildings, ii. 31. Population, trade, 32. - - _Barquisimeto_, city of Caraccas, population, scite, foundation, - climate, trade, ii. 53. - Public buildings, &c., 54. - - _Bastidas_, discoveries of, i. 213. - - _Batabano_, town of Cuba, i. 191. - - _Batopilas_, native silver sometimes found in the mines of, i. 43. - - ----, mining town of New Spain, i. 94. - - _Bavispe_ fort, in New Spain, i. 92. - - _Bayamo_, or St. Salvador, town of Cuba, i. 191. - - _Benalcazar_, conquest of Quito by, i. 214. 288. - - _Beni_ river, i. 326. ii. 144. 194. - - _Biriquite_, district of New Granada, i. 274. - - _Biru_, town of Peru, ii. 125. - - _Biscay_, New. See _New_ Biscay. - - _Bishops_ of New Spain, i. 48. - - _Blanca_ isle, Caribbean sea, ii. 298. - - _Blanco_, river of New Spain, i. 149. - - _Blanquillo_, mountain of Chili, ii. 249. - - _Bluefields_ river, Guatimala, i. 172. - - _Boca de los Navios_, great mouth of the Orinoco, ii. 41. - - _Boca del Sierpe_ and _Del Drago_, names given by Columbus to the - channels between Trinidad and Caraccas, ii. 19. - - _Bochica_, great lawgiver of the Bogotians, i. 217. 228. - - _Bogota._ See _Santa Fe_. - - _Bolanos_ mines, in New Spain, i. 43 - - _Bolivar_, leader of the insurgents in Caraccas, ii. 3. - - _Bolson de Mapimi_, desert in New Spain, i. 94. - - _Bonacao_ island, in the gulf of Mexico, i. 197. - - _Boracha_, high rock of the Caribbean sea, ii. 299. - - _Bore_ or _Pororoca_ of the Maranon, i. 331. - Of other rivers, 332. - - _Borja_, town of Quito, i. 324. - - _Borriquen_, ancient name of Puerto Rico, i. 182. - - _Boundary_ line between the United States and Florida, i. 16. - - _Bravo, Rio del Norte_, description of, i. 45. 70. - Estuary of, 98. - - _Bridges_, pendulous, i. 224. - Rope, on the Magdalena river, 256. - Natural, 265. - Peruvian, over the Rio Desaguadero, ii. 186. - - _Brigantin_, chain of mountains in Caraccas, ii. 30. - - _Bucaniers_, plunder of Maracaybo by, ii. 62. - - _Buenara_, lake of New Spain, i. 87. - - _Buenavista_, mountain of Caraccas, ii. 39. - - _Buenos Ayres_, viceroyalty of. - Boundaries and extent, ii. 155. - Political and territorial divisions, 156. - History and discovery, _ib._ - Late events in, 159. - Present condition of, 161. - Features, climate, &c., _ib._ - Lakes, 162. - Rivers, 164. - Commerce and resources, 167. - Capital, 168. - Provinces of, 171-230. - - ----, government of. - Boundaries, history, &c., ii. 220. - Climate, features, &c., 222. - Method of travelling over the plains, 223. - Rivers, 224. - Chief town and cities, 225-228. - Indian nations, 228. - - ----, city of. - Population, scite, foundation, streets, squares, houses, cathedral - and churches, ii. 168. - Navigation of the La Plata, buildings, gardens, 169. - Markets, trade, climate, pamperos, royal audience, 170. - - _Buga_, department of New Granada, i. 278. - - _Burburata_, village of Caraccas, ii. 50. - - _Burying-places_ of the ancient Peruvians, i. 304. - - _Butter_ of the Guacharo, ii. 38. - - - C - - _Cabot_, Sebastian, discovery of the Rio de la Plata by, ii. 156. - - _Cacao_ or chocolate tree, i. 257. - - ---- used as money by the Mexicans, i. 120. - - _Cachemecan_, kingdom, i. 105. - - _Cachipampa_, battle of, ii. 99. - - _Caciques_, of New Spain, i. 32. - - _Cadaguela_, toqui of the Chilese, ii. 241. - - _Cadiz_, town of Cuba, i. 192. - - _Calabozo_, city of Caraccas, ii. 57. - - _Calbuco_, island of the Archipelago of Chiloe, ii. 287. - - _Calcaylares_, district of, Peru, ii. 145. - - _Calender_ of the Muyscas, i. 217. - - _Callao_, port of, Lima, ii. 119. - - _Cali_, department of, New Granada, i. 278. - - ----, town of, New Granada, i. 280. - - _California_, New and Old, extent, boundaries, and discovery, i. 76. - Population, missions, 78. - Natives, 79. - Animals, commerce, 81. - Description of the missions, 82. - Capital, 83. - - _Callo_, palace of the Incas, i. 301. - - _Caloto_, department of, New Granada, i. 278 - - _Calquin_, or large eagle of Chili, ii. 259. - - _Camana_, district and town of Peru, ii. 148. - - _Campeche_, city of New Spain, i. 156. - Scite, fortifications, manufactures, logwood cutters, population, 157. - - _Cana_, town or fortress of Darien, i. 240. - - _Canal_ de la Raspadura in Choco, unites the Pacific and Atlantic - oceans, i. 273. - - ---- of Mexico, i. 131. - - ---- de Pedernales, a mouth of the Orinoco, ii. 41. - - _Canatagua_, Sierra de, chain of mountains dividing North and South - America, i. 177. - - _Canas_ y Canches or Tinta, district of, Peru, ii. 145. - - _Canavami_, mountain, i. 221. - - _Canete_, town and district of, Peru, ii. 133. - - _Cannibalism_, nations probably accused falsely of, i. 232. - - _Cansada_, immense stone of the wall of Cuzco, ii. 142. - - _Canta_, town and district of Peru, ii. 132. - - _Capac Yupanqui_, fifth Inca of Peru, ii. 85. - - _Capaguas_ Indians, ii. 153. - - _Capanaparo_, river of, Caraccas, ii. 67. - - _Cape_ Casinas, name given to Cape Honduras by Columbus, i. 210. - - ---- Catoche, New Spain, i. 173. - - ---- Cross, Florida, i. 19. - - ---- Florida, i. 19. - - ---- Gracias a Dios, Guatimala, i. 172. - - ---- Honduras, i. 173. - - ---- Roman, Florida, i. 19. - - ---- Sable, Florida, i. 19. - - ---- St. Blaz, Florida, i. 19. - - _Captain_ General of Caraccas, ii. 2. - - _Capure_, a mouth of the Orinoco, ii. 41. - - _Caqueta_, River, New Granada, sources of, i. 281. - - _Caraccas_, Captain generalship of, boundaries and extent, ii. 1. - Political divisions and government, discovery and history, 2. - Capital, 4. - Features of the country, &c., 8. - Rivers, 9. - Indians, 12. - Lakes, 15. - Provinces, 18. - Commerce, 47. - - ----, city of, situation and foundation, ii. 4. - Streets, buildings, population, theatre, surrounding country, 5. - Climate, earthquake, 6. - Port, 7. - - ----, Islands, Caribbean sea, ii. 299. - - _Carabaya_, district and town of, La Plata, ii. 189. - - _Carahuasi_, district of, Peru, ii. 141. - - _Caranjas_, district of, La Plata, ii. 180. - - _Carapochas_ Indians, ii. 153. - - _Caratapona_, isle in Lake Valencia, ii. 17. - - _Carguirazo_, mountain of Quito, i. 302. - - _Cariaco_, Gulf of Caraccas, ii. 28. - - ----, town of Caraccas, ii. 39. - - _Carib_ Indians, i. 222. ii. 14. - - _Caramari_, Indian name of Carthagena, i. 212. - - _Caripe_, river of Caraccas, ii. 39. - - ----, convent of Caraccas, ii. 37. - - _Carora_, city of Caraccas, ii. 52. - - _Carthagena_, province of New Granada, boundaries, extent, features, - produce, forests, animals, i. 241. - Birds, insects, reptiles, 243. - Fruits, inhabitants, 244. - Discovery, 245. - Capital, 246. - Towns, 250. - - ----, city of, in New Granada, situation, suburbs, i. 246. - Fortifications, bay, climate, 247. - Public buildings, inhabitants, 248. - Offices, trade, history, 249. - Exports and imports, 250. - - _Carthago_, town of Popayan, i. 280. - - ----, town of Guatimala, i. 176. - - _Casanare_, province of New Granada, i. 264. - - _Casas Grandes_ de Rio Gila, i. 75. - - ---- _Grandes_ in New Biscay, i. 106. - - _Casibos_ Indians, ii. 152. - - _Cassava_ bread, i. 37. - - ---- or manioc forms the bread of the Indians, i. 216. - - _Cassiquiari_ river, i. 332. - - _Cassiquiari_, river, ii. 10. - - _Cassiquin_ river, ii. 154. - - _Castro_, town of Chiloe, ii. 286. - - ---- _vireyna_, district and town of Peru, ii. 137. - - _Catacatche_ village, of New Granada, i. 304. - - _Cataract_ of Tequendama, i. 224. - Cataracts of the Rio Pusambio in Popayan, 281. - Cataract of Maypures and Atures, 221. ii. 11. - - _Catorce_, mine of New Spain, i. 98. - - _Cauca_, river of New Granada, i. 246. 279. - - _Caupolican_, toqui of the Chilese, ii. 238. - - _Cauquenes_, town of Chili, ii. 275. - - _Causeway_ of ancient Mexico, i. 120. 132. - Of the Incas in Quito, 285. 308. - - _Cavern_ of the Guacharo in Caraccas, ii. 37. - Of Rapel in Chili, 274. - - _Caxamarca_, defeat and imprisonment of Huascar Inca at, i. 287. - Battle of, ii. 92. - District and town of Peru, 125. - - _Caxatambo_, town and district of, Peru, ii. 129 - - _Cayambe_ Urcu, mountain of Quito, i. 300. - - ----, village of New Granada, i. 304. - - _Cayancura_, toqui of the Chilese, ii. 241. - - _Caylloma_, town and district of Peru, ii. 149. - - _Cayman_ Lake, New Spain, i. 46. - - _Cedros_, Isle, Pacific Ocean, i. 200. - - _Celaya_, city of, New Spain, i. 102. - - _Cerro de la Giganta_, chain of mountains in California, i. 80. - - _Cerro del Brigantin_, chain of mountains in Caraccas, ii. 30. - - _Cerro de la Sal_, chain of mountains in Peru, ii. 153. - - _Cerro de Cuchivano_, chain of mountains in Caraccas, ii. 34. - - _Chacao_, town of the island of Chiloe, ii. 286. - - _Chacao_, plain, near Caraccas, ii. 5. - - _Chachapoyas_, district of, Peru, ii. 125. - - _Chachapoyas_, or Juan de la Frontera, town of, Peru, ii. 126. - - _Chacos_, territory of, La Plata, ii. 195. - - ----, river of, La Plata, ii. 207. - - _Chagre_, river of, New Granada, i. 231. - - _Chalco_, lake, New Spain, i. 130. - - _Chancay_, district and town of, Peru, ii. 132. - - _Chapala_, lake of, New Spain, i. 46. 100. - - _Chapultepec_, aqueduct of, Mexico, i. 66. - - _Charcas_, mines of, New Spain, i. 98. - - ----, or Potosi, government of, boundaries, and districts of, ii. 171. - History, capital of, 172. - Provincial descriptions, 173. - - ----, district of, La Plata, ii. 173. - - _Chayantas_, district of, La Plata, ii. 179. - - _Chaymas_, Indians, ii. 12. - - _Cheuque_, or ostrich of Chili, ii. 259. - - _Chia_, consort of Bochica, singular tradition concerning, i. 228. - - _Chiapa_, province of Guatimala, boundaries, extent, features, and - rivers, i. 163. - Productions, animals, inhabitants, capital, 164. - - ----, _Real_, city of Guatimala, situation, government, inhabitants, - cathedral, i. 164. - - ---- _de los Indios_, city of Guatimala, scite, description, - inhabitants, climate, churches, amusements of the natives, vicinity, - trade, i. 165. - - ----, river of, Guatimala, i. 164. - - _Chibcha_, or language of the Muyscas, i. 218. - - _Chica_, an intoxicating liquor made by the Indians of Peru and - La Plata, ii. 189. - - _Chichas y Tarijas_, district, La Plata, ii. 177. - - _Chicometepec_, river, New Spain, i. 155. - - _Chihuahua_, city of, New Spain, i. 94. - - _Chilca_, famous for saltpetre, town of, Peru, ii. 133. - - _Chilese_, ancient, ii. 232. - - _Chillan_, mountain of, Chili, ii. 249. - - _Chillan_, town, and district of, Chili, ii. 276. - - _Chili_, Captain-generalship of, extent and boundaries, ii. 230. - Political and territorial divisions and government, 231. - Discovery, and history of, _ib._ - Climate, features, 243. - Recent events in, 244. - Rivers, and lakes, 250. - Mines, 251. - Population, 253. - Animals, _ib._ - Commerce, 262. - Capital, 263. - Continental provinces, 264. - Insular provinces, 282. - Araucania, 287. - - _Chili-dugu_, or language of the Chilese, ii. 253. - - _Chilihueques_, or Araucanian sheep, ii. 254. - - _Chiloe_, islands of, ii. 283. - - _Chilotes_, Indians, ii. 284. - - _Chilques y Masques_, district of, Peru, ii. 145. - - _Chimalapa_, river of, New Spain, i. 155. - - _Chimbo_, district and town of, New Granada, i. 310. - - _Chimborazo_, mountain, i. 219. 298. - - _Chingasa_, mountain of, New Granada, i. 265. - - _Chiquillanes_, Indians, ii. 288. - - _Chiquitos_, Indians, ii. 193. - - _Chiquitos_, district and town of, La Plata, ii. 192. - - _Chiriguanos_, Indians, ii. 193. - - _Chiriqui_, bay of, Guatimala, i. 199. - - _Choco_, province of, New Granada, i. 273. - - _Chocolate_, name originally Mexican, i. 39. - - ----, manufacture of, i. 258. - - _Chocope_, town of, Peru, ii. 125. - - _Chollolan_, republic, i. 104. - - _Cholula_, pyramids of, i. 141. - - ----, city of, New Spain, ancient capital of the republic of Chollolan, - population and history, i. 142. - - _Cholutecas_, or Xeses, district and town of, Guatimala, i. 163. - - _Choropampa_, or the plain of shells, Peru, ii. 80. - - _Chota_, mines of, Peru, ii. 79. 125. - - _Chuchanga_, town of, New Granada, i. 322. - - _Chucuito_, district and town of, La Plata, ii. 185. - - _Chucuito_, lake, La Plata, ii. 163. 185. - - _Chumbivilcas_, district of, Peru, ii. 146. - - _Chunchos_, country of, Peru, ii. 145. 154. - - _Chuquisaca_, or La Plata, city of La Plata, scite, climate, ii. 172. - Foundation, buildings, Indians, royal audience, magistracy, and - population, 173. - - _Cinaloa_, district, New Spain, i. 90. - - ----, city of, New Spain, i. 92. - - _Cinchona_, or Peruvian bark, i. 320. - - _Citlaltepetl_, or Pico de Orizaba, i. 150. - - _Claim_ of the Spanish government to the west coast of America, i. 5. - - ---- of the United States government to part of New Spain, i. 56. - - _Clayborne_, fort of, the United States, i. 96. - - _Clergy_ of New Spain, i. 48. 61. - - _Climate_ of Florida, i. 9. - - ---- of New Spain, i. 34. - - ---- of Cuba, i. 186. - - ---- of New Granada, i. 218. - - ---- of Caraccas, ii. 6. - - ---- of Peru, ii. 81. - - ---- of La Plata, ii. 161. - - ---- of Chili, ii. 245. - - _Coaguila_, city and province of, New Spain, i. 96. - - _Coal_ of New Spain, i. 45. - - _Coban_, city of, Guatimala, i. 166. - - _Coca_, or betel of America, i. 275. - - _Cochabamba_, province of, La Plata, ii. 181. - - _Coche_, Island, Caribbean Sea, ii. 299. - - _Cochineal_, of New Spain, i. 39. - - _Cocinas_, Indians, i. 261. - - _Cocollar_, chain of the, in Caraccas, ii. 35. - - _Cocomaricopas_, Indians, i. 87. - - _Cofre_ de Perote, mountain, i. 35. 150. - - _Coinage_ of the mint of Mexico, i. 53. - - ---- of Santa Fe de Bogota, i. 228. - - ---- of Popayan, _ib._ - - ---- of Lima, ii. 81. - - ---- of Potosi, ii. 175. - - _Colchagua_, province and city of, Chili, ii. 273. - - _Colhuacan_, kingdom, i. 107. - - _Colima_, volcano of, New Spain, i. 100. - - _College_ of mines at, Mexico, i. 45. - - _Colon_, Don Pedro Nuno, Duke of Veragua, viceroy of New Spain, - a descendant of Columbus, i. 31. - - _Colonia del Sacramento_, territory of La Plata, ii. 228. - - _Colorado_, river of, New Spain, i. 45. 87. - - _Colorado de Texas_, river of, New Spain, i. 98. - - _Colorado_, river of, Caraccas, ii. 36. - - _Columbus_, first voyage of, and discovery of America by, i. 2. - Second voyage, i. 3. - Third voyage, _ib._ - Sent to Spain in irons, _ib._ - Fourth voyage, 4. 210. - Wrecked on Jamaica, 211. - Death of, at Valladolid, _ib._ - Discovery of Caraccas by, ii. 18. - - _Comandantes Generales_, of New Spain, i. 33. - - _Comayaguas_, or Valladolid, city in Guatimala, i. 175. - - _Commerce_ of New Spain, i. 53. - - ---- of Cuba, i. 190. - - ---- of New Granada, i. 215. - - ---- of La Guayra, the port of Caraccas, ii. 8. - - ---- of Caraccas, ii. 47. - - ---- of Peru, ii. 77. - - ---- of La Plata, ii. 167. - - ---- of Paraguay, ii. 202. - - ---- of Chili, ii. 262. - - ---- of the island of Chiloe, ii. 285. - - _Concepcion del Pao_, city of, Caraccas, ii. 40. - - ----, city of, La Plata, ii. 204. - - ---- or Penco, city of, Chili, ii. 277. - - _Conchocando_, title of the kings of Quito, i. 284. - - _Conchapatu_, silver mine of, Peru, ii. 132. - - _Conchucos_, city and district of, Peru, ii. 129. - - _Condor_, ii. 260. - - _Condesuyos de Arequipa_, district of Peru, ii. 148. - - _Condonoma_, mine of, Peru, ii. 145. - - _Conibos_ Indians, ii. 152. - - _Conquest_ of Mexico, i. 22. - - _Continental_ provinces of Chili, ii. 264. - - _Continent_ of America, first discovered by Cabot, ii. 196. - - _Conuco_, or public garden of a mission village, ii. 34. - - _Copacavana_ town, on an island in lake Chucuito, ii. 186. - - _Copala_, mine of New Spain, i. 100. - - _Copiapo_, province and town of Chili, ii. 265. - - _Copper_, ancient Mexicans made their tools of, i. 44. - - _Coquimbo_, province and town of Chili, ii. 265. - - _Coquimbanes_, Islands of Chili, ii. 282. - - _Corcobado_, mountain of Chili, ii. 249. 285. 302. - - _Cordilleras_, of New Spain, i. 35. - - _Cordilleras de los Andes_, description of, i. 219. - - _Cordillera_, of New Granada and Caraccas, i. 220. - - _Cordillera_ of the cataracts of the Orinoco, i. 221. - Of Chiquitos, 222. - Of Santa Marta, 253. - Of Merida, 261. - Of Santa Fe, 265. - Of Santa Fe de Antioquia, 272. - Of Popayan, 276. - Of Quito, 298. - Of Caraccas, ii. 8. - Of Chiquitos, 162. 193. - Of the Chiriguanos, 192. - Of Chili, 248. 301. - - _Cordova_, city of New Spain, i. 147. - - _Cordova_, city of La Plata, scite, edifices, trade, district - surrounding, ii. 212. - - _Corientes_, river of La Plata, ii. 166. City of La Plata, 227. - - _Cortez, Fernando_, history of, i. 21. - Conquest of Mexico by, 22. - Sets sail from Cuba, and arrives at Tabasco, meets the embassadors - of Montezuma, who are astonished at the Europeans, arms, - horses, &c., 23. - Present from Montezuma, mutiny of the army, burns his fleet, 24. - Marches for Mexico, conquers the Tlascalans, 25. - Arrives at Mexico, seizes the Emperor, marches to fight Narvaez, 26. - Returns to and evacuates Mexico, Montezuma slain, 28. - Recruits his army, and again lays siege to the city, which - capitulates on Guatimozin being taken and put to death, 29. - Discovery of California by, 77. - - _Cosumel Isle_, discovery of, by Grijalva, history of, &c. i. 194. - - _Costa Rica_, province of Guatimala, i. 176. - - _Cotabamba_, district of, Peru, ii. 145. - - _Cotopaxi_ volcano, i. 299. - - _Coulemu_, town of Chili, ii. 276. - - _Council_ of the mines in New Spain, i. 45. - Of the Indies, ii. 107. - - _Crater_ of Pichinca, i. 299. - - _Creoles_, of New Spain, i. 47. - - _Crevice_ of Icononzo, i. 266. - Of Chota, 303. - - _Crevices_ of the Andes, i. 224. - - _Cruces_, town of Panama, i. 231. - - _Cuba_, island of, situation, i. 183. - Supposed to have been part of the continent, gulf-stream, extent, - position, discovery, 184. - History, climate, 185. - Productions, forests, 186. - Mines, cultivated part, population, mountains, 187. - Government, revenue, army, capital, 188. - Towns, 190. - City of, 191. - Pinos isle, 192. - - _Cubagua_, island, Caribbean sea, ii. 299. - _Cuchillo de Guanaguana_, mountain of Caraccas, ii. 36. - - _Cucurucho de Tumiriquiri_, mountain of Caraccas, ii. 35. - - _Cundinamarca_, kingdom of, i. 217. - - _Cuenca_, district and city of New Granada, i. 318. - - _Cuernavaca_, city of New Spain, i. 133. - - _Cues, St. Antonio de los_, ancient Aztec fort, i. 153. - - _Cujo or Cuyo_, government of La Plata, ii. 215. - Boundaries, climate, features, history, rivers, lakes, - productions, 216. - Commerce, capital, 218. - - _Cuitlahualtzin_, or _Quetlavaca_, King of Mexico, i. 117. - - _Culpeu_, or Chili fox, singular habits of, ii. 257. - - _Cumana_, province of. See _New Andalusia_. - - _Cumana_, city of Caraccas, scite, ii. 25. - Port, citadel, rivers, suburbs, buildings, climate, population, 26. - Indians, 27. - Customs of the inhabitants, harbour, earthquakes, 28. - Environs, 30. - - _Cumanacoa_, town of Caraccas, ii. 32. - - _Cumanagoto_ Indians, ii. 14. - - _Cumanches_ Indians, i. 71. - - _Cunches_ Indians, ii. 288. - - _Curacoa_ Island, trade of with Caraccas, ii. 50. - - _Curico_, mine of Chili, ii. 251. - - ---- town of Chili, ii. 275. - - _Curimayo_, ancient gold mines of Peru, ii. 80. - - _Curuguaty_, town of La Plata, ii. 204. - - _Cuzcatlan_, or _San Salvador_, city of Guatimala, i. 162. - - _Cuzco_, intendency of Peru, ii. 140. - - ----, city of, scite, foundation, ii. 141. - Ancient splendour, history, antiquities, buildings, cathedral, 142. - Temple of the sun, public edifices, bishopric, population, trade, 143. - - - D - - _Darien_, isthmus of, i. 232. - - ----, province of New Granada, extent, climate, inhabitants, i. 239. - Rivers, produce, population, capital, 240. - Scotch colonization of, 241. - - ----, gulf of, i. 240. - - _Daule_, district of New Granada, i. 313. - - _Danta_, large animal of Quito, i. 323. - - _Degu_, or Chilese dormouse, ii. 256. - - _Desaguadero_, singular river of La Plata, ii. 180. - - _Descabezado_, mountain of Chili, ii. 249. - - _Doctrinas_, or villages of Spanish America, ii. 34. - - _Dominic de Gourges_, attack of Florida by, i. 7. - - _Don Josef Sarmiento Valladares Conde de Montezuma_, a descendant - of Montezuma, viceroy of Mexico, i. 31. - - _Doraces_, Indians, i. 178. - - _Duida_ mountain of Guiana, i. 222. - - _Durango_, intendancy of. See _New Biscay_. - - _Durango_, city of New Spain, i. 93. - - - E - - _Earthquakes_ at Guatimala, i. 160. - At Quito, 294. - At Riobamba, 307. - At Caraccas, ii. 6. - At Cumana, 28. - At Valencia in Caraccas, 56. - At Lima, 118. - At Arequipa, 148. - In Chili, 250. - - _El Altar_, mountain, i. 301. - - _El Corazon_, mountain, i. 300. - - _El Dorado_, or Golden mountain, i. 222. - - _El Dorado_, celebrated fictitious city, ii. 17, 18. 71. - - _Elevation_ on the Cordillera of New Spain, at which sugar, cotton, - cacao, and indigo, and European grains flourish, i. 36. - Also pines and the banana, 37. - - _Ekanfanoga_, a swamp in Florida, i. 16. - - _Encomiendas_, history of, ii. 106. - - _Equator_ crosses the great mountain Cayambe Urcu, i. 300. - - _Eruptions_ of Cotopaxi volcano, i. 310. - - _Escambia Coenecah_, river of Florida, i. 14. - - _Escuintla_, district of Guatimala, i. 163. - - _Espiritu Santo_, or Nassau Bay in Florida, i. 19. - - _Europeans_, number of in New Spain, i. 47. - In Spanish America, ii. 319. - - _European_ fruits and vegetables successfully cultivated in New - Spain, i. 38. - - _Excessive_ cold experienced by the French mathematicians in measuring - the degree on the Andes, i. 302. - - - F - - _Farallones_, rocks, Pacific Ocean, i. 200. - - _Falkland_, or Malouin Isles, ii. 300. - - _False_ Maranon, i. 326. - - _Features_ of the country of New Spain, i. 35. - Of New Granada, 219. - Of Caraccas, ii 8. - Of Peru, 81. - Of La Plata, 161. - Of Chili, 245. - - _Fernandina_, town of Florida, i. 19. - - _Fernando, St._, mission of Caraccas, ii. 34. - - _First_ European colony planted in the West Indies, i. 3. - On the continent of America, 179. - - _Flames_, innoxious, of the Plains of Caraccas, ii. 29. - - _Floating_ gardens of Mexico, i. 130. - - _Floridas_, boundaries, i. 6. - Discovery of, history, 7. - Cession of to Spain, 8. - Productions, 10. - Animals, 11. - Capital of East Florida, _ib._ - Capital of West Florida, 14. - Rivers and lakes, _ib._ - Islands, 18. - Government, 19. - Recent events, 20. - - _Florida_, town of Chili, ii. 275. - _Force_ which originally undertook the conquest of Mexico, i. 22. - - _Fort Bourbon_, Spanish fort on the Paraguay, ii. 165. - - _Fort Nueva Coimbra_, Portuguese settlement on the Paraguay, ii. 165. - - _Fort Maullin_, Chili, ii. 286. - - _Fortress_ of the Incas at Cuzco, ii. 142. - - _Fresnillo_, town of New Spain, i. 99. - - _Frontier_ forts of Chili, ii. 280. - - _Funza_, or Bogota river, i. 266. - - - G - - _Gallo_, Isle, Pacific Ocean, ii. 297. - - _Ganges_ in India subject to the Bore, i. 332. - - _Gardens_, floating, of Mexico, i, 130. - - _Garito de Paramo_, highest point of the pass of Quindiu, i. 277. - - _General_ History of the Indies by Las Casas, ii. 25. - - _Genoese_ merchants, the first traffickers in negro slaves, ii. 23. - - _Gibraltar_, city of Caraccas, ii. 63. - - _Gila_ river, ancient Mexican city on its banks, i. 75. - - _Girval_, voyage of, up the Maranon, ii. 151. - - _Goahiros_ Indians, i. 259. - - _Godin's_, Madam, journey down the Maranon, i. 331. - - _Gold_, generally procured by washings in New Spain, i. 43. - Quantity of procured annually in New Spain, _ib._ - Of Antioquia, 271. - Of Peru, ii. 80. - - _Gold_ washings of Choco, i. 274. - - _Golden Castile_, ancient denomination of Darien, &c. i. 212. - - _Gonzalo Pizarro_, exploratory journey of, i. 290. - - _Gorgona_, isle in the Pacific, ii. 297. - - _Gracias a Dios_, town of Guatimala, i. 175. - - ---- ---- ---- _Cape_, named by Columbus, i. 210. - - _Granada_, New. See _New_ Granada. - - ----, Town of Guatimala, i. 168. - - _Grand Manamo_, a mouth of the Orinoco, ii. 41. - - _Grand Para_, a name of the Maranon, i. 326. - - _Grant_ made to Cortez of part of Oaxaca, i. 154. - - _Guacas_, or tumuli of the ancient Peruvians, ii. 105. - - _Guacharo_ cavern and birds, ii. 37. - - _Guadalaxara_, audience of, i. 99. - Intendancy of, _ib._ - Boundaries, extent, _ib._ - Population, productions, rivers, volcanoes, lakes, capital, and - towns, 101. - - ----, city of New Spain, scite, fertility of the country, extent, - inhabitants, climate, buildings, &c., i. 100. - - _Guadelupe_, Isle, Pacific, i. 200. - - _Guadiano_, or Durango river. See _Durango_. - - _Guahibos_ Indians, ii. 68. - - _Guallaga_, river of Peru, ii. 127. - - _Gualgayoc_, mines of Peru, ii. 79. - - _Guamanga_, city of Peru, scite, climate, buildings, mines, - foundation, population, ii. 138. - - ----, intendancy of Peru, ii. 138. - - _Guamoco_, town of New Granada, i. 251. - - _Guana_, or Edible Lizard, i. 234. - - _Guanabana_, i. 245. - - _Guanacas_ mountain, i. 221. - Pass of the, 276. - - _Guanara_, town of Caraccas, ii. 52. - - _Guanahani_, or Cat Island, first land discovered by Columbus, i. 2. - - _Guanaxuato_, intendancy of, i. 102. - City of New Spain, _ib._ - Mines produce twice us much as Potosi, 43. - - _Guancavelica_, intendancy of Peru, ii. 134. - Mines of Peru, 135. - City of Peru, scite, buildings, height, population, 136. - - _Guanchaco_, port of Truxillo, in Peru, ii. 124. - - _Guanta_, town of Peru, ii. 139. - - _Guanuco_, city and district of Peru, ii. 129. - - _Guanucos_, or Peruvian sheep, ii. 264. - - _Guara_, town of Peru, ii. 131. - - _Guarania_, territory of La Plata, ii. 228. - - _Guarapiche_, river of Caraccas, ii. 36. 42. - - _Guarico_ river, ii. 46. - - _Guarisamey_ mines of New Spain, i. 95. - - _Guarochiri_, district and town of Peru, ii. 132. - - _Guarounoes_ Indians, ii. 12. - - _Guarpes_ Indians, ii. 215. - - _Guasco_, port of Chili, ii. 265. - - _Guascualco_ isles, gulf of Mexico, i. 194. - - _Guastays_, ancient princes of Quito, i. 284. - - _Guatavita_ lake, of New Granada, i. 266. - - _Guatimala_, captain-generalship of, captain-general, i. 158. - Sub-divisions of, productions, climate, features, royal audience, 159. - Capital, 160. - - ----, proper, provinces of, i. 161. - - ----, city of, scite, archbishopric, university, trade, foundation, - earthquake, inhabitants, i. 160. - - _Guatimozin_, Emperor of Mexico, defends the capital against Cortez, - is taken prisoner, and tortured, i. 29. 118. - - _Guaxaca._ See _Oaxaca_. - - _Guayaquil_, jurisdiction of New Granada, i. 310. - - ---- city, scite, foundation, buildings, streets, i. 314. - Fortifications, population, 315. - Trade, 318. - - ---- river, i. 313. - - _Guayecas_ Indians, ii. 71. - - _Guayna Patina_, volcano of Peru, ii. 148. - - _Guayqueria_ Indians, ii. 12. 26. - - _Guayra_, river of Caraccas, ii. 46. - - ----, port of Caraccas, ii. 7. - _Guemul_, singular Chilian animal, ii. 256. - - _Guerra_, voyage of, to explore the coast of Caraccas, ii. 19. - - _Guiana_, or Spanish Guiana, extent and boundaries, ii. 69. - Population, divisions, 70. - History, El Dorado, Guayecas, and sources of the Orinoco, 71. - Rivers, capital, 72. - - _Guiges_, river of Caraccas, ii. 45. - - _Guipuscoa_ company, ii. 48. - - _Gulf_ stream, i. 184. - - - H - - _Hambato_, town of New Granada, i. 307. - - _Hatun Potocsi_, mountain in which the mines of Potosi are - worked, ii. 175. - - _Havannah_, captain-generalship of, i. 187. - - ---- city, scite, harbour, i. 188. - Fortifications, dockyard, commerce, manners and customs of the - inhabitants, 189. - Attacks on, by different powers, and population, 190. - - ---- harbour, i. 188. - - _Hayti_, or _Hispaniola_, discovery of, i. 3. - - _Hiaqui_, district of New Spain, i. 89. - River of New Spain, _ib._ - - _Hispaniola_, or _St. Domingo_, first settlement of Europeans in - America, i. 3. - - _History_ of Florida, i. 7. - Of New Spain, 21. - Of Mexico, 103. - Of Caraccas, ii. 2. - Of Peru and of Spanish America, 83-114. - Of the present disturbances in Spanish America, 108. - Of Buenos Ayres, 156. - Of Paraguay, 195. - Of the Jesuit settlements in Paraguay, 220. - Of Chili, 231. - - _Honda_, town of New Granada, i. 269. - - _Honduras_, province of, boundaries, extent, history, climate, i. 169. - Productions, mahogany felling, and mahogany tree, 170. - Logwood, mosquito, shore, Indians, 171. - Chief town, &c., 175. - - ----, bay of, i. 173. - - ----, English factories of, Balize, i. 173. - - _Honey_ and wax, immense quantities produced in New Spain, i. 40. - - _Horses_, wild, in New Spain, i. 40. - - _Hostimuri_, town of, New Spain, i. 92. - - _Huailas_, town and district of Peru, ii. 129. - - _Huamalies_, town and district of Peru, ii. 128. - - _Huana Capac_, 13th Inca of Peru, ii. 86. - - ---- Inca, conquest of Quito by, i. 284. - - _Huantajaya_, mines of Peru, ii. 80. - - _Huascar_, or Inti Cusi Hualpa, 14th Inca of Peru, ii. 86. - - ----, History of, i. 286. - - _Huasacualco_, river of New Spain, i. 149. - - _Huexotzinco_ republic, i. 104. - - ----, town of New Spain, i. 143. - - _Huilies_, Peruvian gold works, ii. 80. - - _Huilquilemu_, province of Chili, ii. 279. - - _Humboldt_'s journey to explore the Orinoco, ii. 71. - - _Huncahua_, king of the Muyscas, i. 218. - - - I and J - - _Jaen de Bracamoros_, government of New Granada, i. 321. - - ----, city of New Granada, i. 321. - - _Jalap_ takes its name from Xalapa, i 39. - - _Jauru_, river, and pyramid of La Plata, ii. 164. - - _Jaguar_, or American tiger, i. 242. ii. 35. 217. - - _Ibague_, town of New Granada, i 280. - - _Iberi_, lake of La Plata, ii. 163. - - _Ica_, or Putumayo river, i. 327. 332. - - ----, town and district of Peru, ii. 133. - - _Icononzo_, natural bridges of, i. 265. - - _Jesuits_, discoveries of the, in California, i. 78. - - ----, history of their settlements in Paraguay, ii. 220. - - _Illimani_, mountain of La Plata, ii. 183. - - _Illinissa_ mountain, i. 300. - - _Imposible_ mountain, road over, ii. 30. - - _Incas_ of Peru, ii. 84. - - _Inca_ Roca, 6th Peruvian monarch, ii 85. - - ---- Ripac, 8th ditto, ii. 85. - - ---- Urca, 9th ditto, ii. 85. - - ---- Yupanqui, partially subdues the Chilese, ii. 232. - - _Indians_, independent, in New Spain, i. 49. - - ---- tribute levied in Mexico, i. 52. - Method of catching wild geese, 243. - Method of snaring the alligator, 318. - - ---- Chili, or Araucania, ii. 287. - - _Indians_, numbers of, in New Spain, i. 49. - Description of, 50. - - ---- of Peru, ii. 105. - Of Caraccas, ii. 12. - - _Inscription_ on the tomb of Columbus, i. 211. - - ----, commemorative of the Geodesic operations in Quito, i. 297. - - _Insular_ Chili, ii. 282. - - _Intendancies_, number of, in New Spain, i. 32. - - _Joanes_ island, at the mouth of the Maranon, i. 329. - - _Jorullo_, volcano of, New Spain, i. 135. - - _Ipava_ lake, source of the Orinoco, ii. 10. - - _Ipire_, river of Caraccas, ii. 41. - - _Isabella_, first town founded in the New World, i. 3. - - _Isabella_ isle, Pacific, i. 201. - - _Islands_, on the coasts of Florida, i. 18. - On the coasts of New Spain and Guatimala, 192. - In the Gulf of California, 200. - Revillagegido, 202. - On the coasts of South America, ii. 294. - - _Isthmus_ of Darien, or Panama, i. 232. - - _Itaquiri_, river of La Plata, ii. 165. - - _Itata_, province of Chili, ii 276. - - _Itzcoatl_, king of Mexico, i. 110. - - _Itzli_ stone, i. 125. - - _Juan Fernandez_ isle, ii. 294. - - ---- _de Grijalva_, discovery of Mexico by, i. 117. - - ---- _de Ulua isle_, gulf of Mexico, i. 193. - - ---- _Rodriguez Cabrillo_ isle, Pacific, i. 200. - - _Juanico_ isle, Pacific Ocean, i. 201. - - _Juruay_ river, ii. 194. - - _Jutay_ river, ii. 195. - - _Iztaccihuatl_, mountain of New Spain, i. 141. - - - L - - _La Guayra_, port of, Caraccas, scite, distance from Caraccas, - fortifications, ii. 7. - Harbour, population, commerce, 8. - - _La Paz_, province of La Plata, ii. 182. - - ----, or Chuquiavo, city of La Plata, foundation, scite, ii. 182. - Climate, buildings, trade, population, 183. - - _La Plata_, viceroyalty of. See _Buenos Ayres_. - - ----, town of New Granada, i. 281. - - ---- isle, in the Pacific, ii. 297. - - _La Purissima Concepcion de Catorce_ mine, profits of, i. 44. - - ---- _Serena_, or Coquimbo, city of Chili, ii. 266. - - ---- _de Tierra_ isle, in the Pacific, ii. 295. - - _Lake Ipava_, source of the Orinoco, ii. 10. - - ---- _Putucuao_, ii. 40. - - ---- _Chucuito_, or _Titicaca_, ii. 168. 185. - - ---- _Maracaybo_, ii. 15. - - ---- _Parima_ ii. 17. - - ---- _Parina Cocha_, ii. 140. - - ---- _Valencia_, ii. 16. - - ---- _Xarayes_, ii. 162. - - ---- _Guatavita_, i. 266. - - ---- _George_, i. 17. - - ---- _Tezcuco_, i. 129. - - ---- _Chalco_, i. 130. - - ---- _St. Cristoval_, i. 130. - - ---- _Zumpango_, i. 130. - - ---- _Cayman_, i. 46. 94. - - ---- _Parras_, i. 94. - - ---- _Chapala_, i. 46. 100. - - _Lakes_ of New Spain, i. 46. - - ---- of Caraccas, ii. 15. - - _Lambayeque_, town of Peru, ii. 123. - - _Lampa_, district of Peru, ii. 146. - - ----, city of La Plata or Peru, ii. 190. - - _Land_ of the missions, or Colonna, ii. 154. - - _Land-crabs,_ natural history of, i. 181. - - _Language_ of the Indians of Caraccas, ii. 13. Of Peru, 154. - Of Chili, 253. - - _Lanthorns_ of Maracaybo lake, ii. 16. - - _Laqui_, singular method of catching animals with, ii. 254. - - _Laricaxas_, district and town of La Plata, ii. 184. - - _Las Casas_, Bishop of Chiapa, styled Protector of the Indians, - history of, ii. 21. - - _Las Corientes_, city of La Plata, ii. 227. - - _Latacunga_, district and city of New Granada, i. 305. - - _Lauricocha_, or False Maranon, i. 326. ii. 128. - - ---- mines of Peru, ii. 79. - - _Lautaro_, toqui of the Chilese, ii. 239. - - _Lemui_, isle of the Archipelago of Chiloe, ii. 287. - - _Leon_, city of Guatimala, i. 167. - - ----, New, province of New Spain, i. 97. - - _Lerma_, river of New Spain, i. 134. - - _Lianas_, beautiful parasitical plants, ii. 33. - - _Lican_, ancient name of Quito, i. 284. - - _Lima_, intendancy of Peru, districts of, boundaries, history, chief - town, and towns, ii. 130, 131. - - ----, scite, foundation, ii. 114. - Public edifices, universities, viceroys, 115. - Courts of justice, palace, mint, suburbs, pomp of the church - ceremonies, manners and customs of the inhabitants, population, - climate, 116. - Earthquake, commerce, port, river, 118. - - _Linares_, town of New Spain, i. 98. - - _Lincopichion_, toqui of the Chilese, ii. 242. - - _Lincoyan_, ditto ditto, ii. 237. - - _Lipes_, district and town of La Plata, ii. 178. - - _Llachi_, isle of the Archipelago of Chiloe, ii. 287. - - _Llamas_, or Peruvian sheep, ii. 255. - - _Llano del Corazon_, plain of Popayan, i. 281. - - _Lloque Yupanqui_, 3d Inca of Peru, ii. 85. - - _Llulia_ and Chiloas, district of Peru, i. 126. - - _Lobos_ isles, Pacific, ii. 297. - - ----, isle of the Rio de la Plata, ii. 300. - - _Logwood_ trees, i. 171. - - _Longavi_, mountain of Chili, ii. 249. - - _Londres_, town of La Plata, ii. 213. - - _Lora_, town of Chili, ii. 275. - - _Loretto_, mission of, California, i. 78. - - _Los Charcas._ See _Charcas_. - - _Los Llanos_, or the Plains of Caraccas, ii. 9. - - _Los Llanitos_, mountains of New Spain, i. 102. - - _Los Paredones_, ruins of an ancient Peruvian palace, i. 309. - - _Los Santos_, town of New Granada, i. 239. - - _Lucanas_, district of Peru, ii. 140. - - - M - - _Macanao_, Cape, Margarita isle, ii. 298. - - _Macareo_, a mouth of the Orinoco, ii. 41. - - _Macas_, town and province of New Granada, i. 335. - - _Maccabaw_ snuff, origin of the name, ii. 64. - - _Madera_ river, i. 328. ii. 194. - - _Magalhaens_, discovery of the passage into the South Pacific by, ii. - 292. - - _Magdalena_, Rio Grande de, i. 246. 254. - - _Magnificent_ gift sent to Cortez by Montezuma, i. 23. - - _Maguey_, or Agave, i. 39. 84. - - _Mahogany_ trees, i. 171. - - _Maita Capac_, 4th Inca of Peru, ii. 85. - - _Maize_, plantations of, support the Indians in New Spain, i. 37. Sugar - made from its stalks by the Mexicans, 38. - - _Maldonado_, city of La Plata, ii. 227. - - _Malpays_, i. 136. - - _Mama Oello_, ii. 84. - - _Mameis_, i. 245. - - _Mamore_ river, ii. 194. - - _Manati_, or sea cow, i. 333. - - _Mancanillo_, or poison apple, i. 242. - - _Manco Capac_, 1st Sovereign of Peru, ii. 84. - - ---- ----, 16th Inca of Peru, ii. 86. 97. - - _Mandiha_, lake of La Plata, ii. 163. - - _Manflos_, mountain of Chili, ii. 249. - - _Manioc_, cultivation of, in New Spain, i. 37. - - _Manoa_, or El Dorado, pretended city of Guiana, ii. 71. - - _Manta_, flat fish, destructive to pearl divers, i. 235. - - ---- _blancas_, offensive little insects, i. 244. - - _Manzanares_, river of Caraccas, ii. 42. - - _Mapimis_, Fort de, in New Spain, i. 94. - - _Maracay_, town of Caraccas, ii. 54. - - _Maracaybo_, province of Caraccas, boundaries, soil, population, Indian - towns on the lake, ii. 58. History, rivers, 59. Climate, capital, 60. - Towns, 63. - - ----, city of Caraccas, scite, climate, buildings, ii. 60. Foundation, - population, slaves, ship-building, manners and customs of the - inhabitants, 61. History of the plunder of by the bucaniers, 62. - - ---- lake, ii. 15. - - _Maranon_ river, description of, i. 325. - - _Margarita_ island, Caribbean sea, situation, discovery, ii. 73. Ports, - population, commerce, climate, soil, capital, recent events, 74. - - ---- island, Pacific Ocean, i. 200. - - _Maria de Escobar_, sows the first wheat in Peru, ii. 131. - - _Marias, Las Tres_, isles, Pacific Ocean, i. 201. - - _Mariguitar_, village of Caraccas, ii. 40. - - _Mariquita_, town of New Granada, i. 269. - - _Maruisas_, a mouth of the Orinoco, ii. 41. - - _Marquess del Valle de Oaxaca_, title granted to Cortez, i. 30. - - _Mas-afuera_ isle, Pacific Ocean, ii. 295. - - _Mataguayos_ Indians, ii. 211. - - _Matte_, or Paraguay tea, ii. 200. - - _Maule_, district of Chili, ii. 274. - - _Mausolea_ of Chachapoyas in Peru, ii. 104. - - _Maynas_, province of New Granada, i. 324. - - _Mayo_, district and river of New Spain, i. 89. - - _Maypure_ cataract, i. 221. - - _Mayros_ Indians, ii. 154. - - _Measurement_ of a degree of the meridian in Quito, i. 297. - - _Mechoacan._ See _Valladolid_. - - _Medellin_, birth-place of Cortez, i. 21. - - _Melipilla_, city and province of Chili, ii. 270. - - _Menchuan_ isle, Pacific, ii. 287. - - _Mendoza_, city of La Plata, ii. 218. - - _Mentuosa_, isle, Pacific, i. 203. - - _Mercaderes_, town of Popayan, limit of Peruvian conquests, i. 281. - - _Mercury_ of Antioquia, i. 272. - - ----, quantity used in the Mexican mines, i. 44. - - _Merida_, province of New Spain. See _Yucatan_. - - ----, city of New Spain, i. 158. - - ----, province of New Granada, i. 261. - - ----, city of New Granada, i. 262. - - _Mestizoes_ of New Spain, i. 47. - - _Meta_ river, ii. 67. - - _Method_ of travelling over the passes of Popayan, i. 277. The plains - of La Plata, ii. 209. 222. - - ---- of carrying the post letters in Quito, i. 323. - - _Mexicana_ river, i. 5. - - _Mexico_, viceroyalty of. See _New Spain_. - - ----, intendancy of, boundaries, ancient and modern history of, i. 103. - Climate, produce, animals, 122. Minerals, 125. Ancient inhabitants, - 126. Features, 129. Antiquities, 132. Towns, 133. - - ----, New, province of, extent, boundaries, features, i. 68. Climate, - capital, towns, 69. Mines, population, rivers, 70. Indians, 71. - Antiquities, 75. - - ----, city of, attack and capture of by Cortez, i. 29. Description of, - scite, architecture of the public edifices, &c., i. 57. Population, - 58. Market-place, aqueducts, police, municipal body, courts of - justice, 59. Viceroy's court and splendour, 60. Troops, archbishopric, - clergy, ecclesiastical courts, university, 61. Colleges, patron saint, - character of the people, 62. Manners and customs, 63. Scenery in the - vicinity, 64. Public walks, climate, 65. Antiquities, lakes, 66. - Lazaroni, 67. - - _Mexicans_, ancient, i. 119. Modern, 125. - - _Mexitli_, the Mexican god of war, i. 57. - - _Michuacan_ kingdom, i. 104. - - _Micuipampa_, mines of, Peru, ii. 79. Town of, Peru, 125. - - _Mimbrenos Apaches_ Indians, i. 73. - - _Minas_, basin of, in Nova Scotia, subject to the bore, i 332. - - _Mineral_ pitch of Maracaybo, ii. 16. - - - _Mines_ of New Spain, many abandoned for want of proper machinery, - number of, i. 42. The most valuable of, 43. - - ---- of New Granada, i. 214. - - ---- of Peru, produce of, ii. 78. Description of, ii. 79. - - ---- of talc in La Plata, ii. 184. - - ---- of La Plata, produce of, ii. 167. - - ---- of Potosi, ii. 174. - - ---- del Azogue, in La Plata, ii. 187. - - ---- of Salcedo, in La Plata, ii. 188. - - ---- of Chili, ii. 251. - - _Mint_ of Mexico, quantity of coinage issued from since the conquest, - i. 53. - - ---- of Santa Fe de Bogota, coinage of, i. 228. - - ---- of Popayan, coinage of, i. 228. - - _Miraculous_ fountain in Florida, i. 9. - - _Mission_ villages of Paraguay, ii. 203. - - _Missionary_ town, description of one, ii. 34. - - ---- war with the Indians, i. 48. - - _Missions_ of California, i. 78-82. - - _Misteriosa_ island, i. 198. - - _Mita_, a law obliging the Indians to work in the mines, ii. 107. - - _Mitla_, temple of the ancient Mexicans, i. 154. - - _Mixteca_, country of New Spain, i. 154. - - _Mizque Pocona_, town and district of La Plata, ii. 192. - - _Mocha_ isle, Pacific Ocean, ii. 282. - - _Mompox_, town of New Granada, i. 250. - - _Monclova_, town of New Spain, i. 97. - - _Mondego_, river of La Plata, ii. 165. - - _Monkeys_ of Panama, eaten by the natives, i. 232. - - _Montana Reale_, country of Peru, ii. 153. - - _Monte Capiro_, mountain of Porto Bello, i. 236. - - _Monteleone_, Duke of, a descendant of Cortez, i. 48. - - _Monterey_, town of California, i. 82. Bay of ditto, 85. - - ----, town of New Spain, i. 97. - - _Monteses_ Indians, ii. 203. - - _Montes Claros_, town of New Spain, i. 92. - - _Monte Video_, city of La Plata, scite, name, ii. 225. Harbour, - buildings, climate, vicinity, population, commerce, 226. Taking of, by - the British, 227. - - _Montezuma Ilhuicamina_, Emperor of Mexico, i. 111. - - _Montezuma Xocotzin_, Emperor of Mexico, magnificent reception of - Cortez by, i. 25. Made prisoner, 27. Slain, 28. History of, 114. - - _Moquehua_, district and town of Peru, ii. 149. - - _Moqui_ Indians, i. 71. - - _Moquihuix_, King of Tlatelolco, i. 111. - - _Morgan_ the freebooter, sack of Panama by, i. 233. Taking of Porto - Bello by, 238. Plunder of Maracaybo by, ii. 62. - - _Moro_ Castle, i. 189. - - _Morrope_, town of Peru, ii. 123. - - _Mosquito_ shore, i. 171. - - ---- Indians, i. 172. - - _Mountains_ near the river Magdalena, curious structure of, i. 225. - - _Mouths_ of the Orinoco, ii. 11. 41. - - _Moyobamba_, town of Peru, ii. 126. - - _Moxos_, territory of La Plata, ii. 194. - - _Mugillon_ Isle, in the Pacific, ii. 282. - - _Mulattoes_ of New Spain, i. 47. - - _Musky_ smell and white colour of the rivers frequented by alligators, - i. 318. - - _Muyscas_ or _Moscas_ Indians, ancient tribe of New Granada, i. 217. - 227. - - _Muzo_, town of New Granada, i. 270. - - _Muzos_, singular Indian nation, i. 270. - - - N - - _Nacogdoch_, Fort of Texas, in New Spain, i. 98. - - _Narvaez_, defeat of, by Cortez, i. 28. - - _Napo_ river, i. 332. - - _Naptha_, spring of, in Caraccas, ii. 31. - - _Nasca_, town of Peru, ii. 134. - - _Nata_, city of New Granada, i. 238. - - _Nauhcampatepetl_, mountain of New Spain, i. 150. - - _Neembucu_, lake of La Plata, ii. 163. - - ----, town of La Plata, ii. 204. - - _Negroes_ in New Spain, i. 48. - - ---- in New Granada, i. 272. - - _Nevada_ de Toluca mountains, i. 129. - - ---- de Santa Marta, i. 220. - - ---- de Merida mountains, i. 220. - - _Neveri_, or _Enipiricuar_, river of Caraccas, ii. 42. - - _New Albion_, explored and named by Sir Francis Drake, i. 77. - - _New Andalusia_, province of, boundaries, history, ii. 18. Features, - climate, capital, 25. - - _New Barcelona_, province of, ii. 18. - - _New Biscay_, or Durango, intendancy of, boundaries, extent, i. 92. - Population, capital, 93. Inhabitants, towns, &c., 94. _New Caledonia_, - i. 241. - - _New California._ See _California_. - - _New Granada_, viceroyalty of, boundaries and extent, i. 209. - Territorial and political and divisions, discovery and history, 210. - Audiences, viceroy, population, 214. Archbishopric, commerce, revenues, - 215. Mines, produce, Indians, 216. Ancient inhabitants, 217. Climate, - 218. Features of, 219. Capital, 225. Provinces of, 229. - - _New Leon_, province of New Spain, boundaries, extent, and capital, i. - 97. - - _New Mexico_, province of. See _Mexico_. - - _New Santander_, province of New Spain, boundaries, extent and - description of, i. 97. Mines, capital, towns and rivers, i. 98. - - _New Santander_, city of New Spain, i. 98. - - _New Spain_, viceroyalty of, government history, and discovery, i. - 20. Political and territorial divisions, 32. Boundaries, 33. Extent - and climate, 34. Features, productions and mines, 35. Rivers, 45. - Lakes, 46. Temperature, 47. Population, 21. 47. Antiquities and - manufactures, 52. Commerce, 53. Revenues, 55. Army, 56. Recent events, - 56. Metropolis, 57. Provinces of, 68. - - _Neyva_, town of New Granada, i. 281. - - _Nicaragua_, province of Guatimala, boundaries, climate, features, i. - 166. Productions, trade, mines, population, animals, capital, i. 167. - - ----, town of Guatimala, i. 168. - - _Nicoya_, town of Guatimala, i. 176. - - _Nicuessa_, voyage of, i. 212. - - _Nirgua_, town of Caraccas, ii. 58. - - _Noanamas_, village of New Granada, i. 274. - - _Nobles_ of New Spain, i. 32. - - _Norte_, Rio Grande del, i. 45. 98. - - _Nuestra Senora de la Vittoria._ See _Tabasco_. - - - O - - _Oaxaca_ or Guaxaca, intendancy of, boundaries, i. 151. Mines, - inhabitants, manufactures, capital and towns, 152. Mountains, - antiquities, rivers, grant to Cortez, 154. - - _Oaxaca_, city of New Spain, scite, vicinity, climate, i. 152. Public - buildings and population, 152. - - _Obelisks_ in Cuyo, ii. 218. - - _Ocana_, town of New Granada, i. 259. - - _Ocona_, town of Peru, ii. 148. - - _Ocumara_, town of Caraccas, ii. 56. - - _Olives_, cultivation of, forbidden in New Spain, i. 38. - - _Ojeda_, voyages and discoveries of, i. 211. - - _Omaguas_ Indians, i. 324. - - _Omasuyos_, district of La Plata, ii. 183. - - _Omoa_, town of Guatimala, i. 175. - - _Orchilla_ island, Caribbean Sea, ii. 298. - - _Orellana_, discovery of the Maranon by, i. 291. - - _Origin_ of the slave trade, ii. 22. - - _Orinoco_ river, ii. 10. 41. - - _Oro_, platina mine in New Granada, i. 274. - - _Oropesa_, city of La Plata, ii. 181. - - _Orizaba_, volcano of New Spain, i. 150. - - ----, town of New Spain, i. 147. - - _Oruro_, district of La Plata, ii. 178. - - ----, city of La Plata, ii. 179. - - _Ostimuri_, district of New Spain, i. 89. - - _Ostrich_ of America, ii. 259. - - _Otabalo_, jurisdiction of New Granada, i. 303. - - ----, city of New Granada, i. 304. - - _Otomacs_ Indians, ii. 15. - - _Ovando_ refuses Columbus leave to refit his ship at Hispaniola, i. 210. - - - P - - _Pacajes_, district and town of La Plata, ii. 184. - - _Pachachaca_, river of Peru, ii. 146. - - _Pachacamac_, a deity of the Peruvians, ii. 105. Temple of, in Peru, - 103. - - ----, isle in the Pacific, ii. 296. - - _Pachacutec_, 10th Inca of Peru, ii. 85. - - _Pachitea_, river, ii. 127. - - _Pachuca_, town of New Spain, i. 134. - - _Pachuquilla_, the most ancient village of the vale of Anahuac, i. 134. - - _Pacific Ocean_, discovered by Vasco Nunez de Balboa, i. 213. - - _Pagi_, or Puma, of Chili, ii. 256. - - _Pajaro_, Chilian island, ii. 282. - - _Paillamachu_, toqui of the Chilese, ii. 241. - - _Paintings_, Mexican, i. 52. 123. - - _Pampas_ of Buenos Ayres, ii. 222. - - _Pampas del Sacramento_, ii. 151. - - _Pampatar_, in Margarita, recent events at, ii. 74. - - _Pamplona_, city of New Granada, i. 263. - - _Panama_, province of, i. 229. Boundaries, discovery, climate, soil, - forests, mountains, trade, produce, 230. Mines, rivers, animals, - capital, 232. Bay, pearl fishery, and cities, 235. - - ----, city of New Granada, scite, i. 232. History, government, public - offices and buildings, inhabitants, bay, tides, 234. - - _Panos_ Indians, ii. 152. - - _Panuco_, river of New Spain, i. 134. 149. - - _Papantla_, pyramids of, i. 151. - - _Papaws_, i. 244. - - _Paragoana_, peninsula of, in Caraccas, ii. 50. - - _Paraguay_, government of, boundaries, extent, history, discovery, &c., - ii. 195. Climate, and productions, features, &c., 199. Animals, 201. - Rivers, commerce, 202. Missions, capital, and towns, 203. - - _Paraguay_ river, small declension of, ii. 161. Description of, 164. - - _Paramo de Guanacas_, pass of, i. 265. 276. - - ---- _de la Summa Paz_ mountain, i. 265. - - ---- _del Assuay_, road over the, i. 308. - - _Parana_ river, ii. 166. 224. - - _Paria_, district and city of La Plata, ii. 179. - - _Paria_, province of Caraccas, ii. 18. - - _Pariagoto_ Indians, ii. 13. - - _Parima_ lake, ii. 17. - - _Parina Cocha_ lake, ii. 140. - - _Parina Cocha_, district of Peru, ii. 140. - - _Parral_, town of New Spain, i. 95. - - _Pasco_, town of Peru, ii. 130. - - _Pasco_ mines, in Peru, ii. 79. - - _Pascuaro_, town of New Spain, i. 137. - - _Pasquaro_, town of New Spain, i. 94. - - _Pass_ of Guanacas, i. 276. - - _Passo del Norte_, fort of New Spain, i. 69. - - _Pasto_, town of New Granada, i. 281. - - _Patagonians_, ii. 229. - - _Pataz_, gold works of Peru, ii. 80. - - _Pataz_, district of Peru, ii. 126. - - _Paucarcolla_, district and town of La Plata, ii. 187. - - _Paucartambo_, district of Peru, ii. 144. - - ---- river, i. 326. ii. 144. - - _Paullu_, Inca, gives Pizarro battle, ii. 95. - - _Pausa_, town of Peru, ii. 140. - - _Paynenauca_, toqui of the Chilese, ii. 240. - - _Payta_, town of Peru, ii. 122. - - _Pearl_ fishery of Panama, i. 230. - - _Pedro Arias de Avila_, governor of Terra Firma, i. 213. - - _Pedro de la Gasca_, third governor of Peru, ii. 100. - - _Pehuenches_ Indians, ii. 288. - - _Pendulous_ bridges in South America, i. 224. - - _Pensacola_, city of Florida, i. 13. - - _Perdido_ bay and river, boundary of the United States and Florida, i. - 7. 16. - - _Perote_, plain of, i. 144. - - _Peru_, viceroyalty of, boundaries and extent, ii. 75. Political and - territorial divisions, population and government, 76. Commerce, 77. - Produce of the mines, 78. Mines, 79. Climate, features, &c., 81. - History, discovery, &c., 83. Ancient Peruvians, 103. Antiquities, 104. - Modern Peruvians, 105. Recent events in, 108. Capital, 114. Provinces - of, 120. - - _Peruvians_, ancient, ii. 103. - - _Peruvians_, modern, ii. 105. - - _Peruvian_ sheep, ii. 255. - - _Peteroa_, volcano of Chili, ii. 249. 274. - - _Petorca_, city of Chili, ii. 269. - - _Pichinca_ volcano, i. 298. - - _Pico de Orizaba_ volcano, i. 35. 150. - - _Pico de Tancitaro_ mountain, i. 135. - - _Piedra Blanca_, Pacific, i. 201. - - _Pihuen_, or Chilese pine tree, ii. 247. - - _Pilaya y Paspaya_, province of La Plata, ii. 179. - - _Pilcomayo_ river, ii. 166. 173. - - _Pillan_, name of the Deity in ancient Chili, ii. 233. - - _Pimeria_, province of New Spain, boundaries, climate, inhabitants, i. - 86. Rivers, 87. Forts, 88. - - _Pinos_ isle, Cuba, i. 192. - - _Pique_, insect, i. 244. - - _Piritoo_ isles, ii. 300. - - _Piros_ Indians, ii. 152. - - _Pisco_, town of Peru, ii. 133. - - _Piura_, district of, and oldest town in Peru, ii. 120. - - _Pizarro_, history of the conquest of Peru by, ii. 86. - - _Pizarro Gonzalo_ assumes the government of Peru, ii. 99. - - ---- ---- exploratory journey of, to the false Maranon, i. 290. - - _Plain_ of the Maranon, i. 223. - - _Plains_ of Barcelona, ii. 32. - - _Platina_ of Choco, i. 274. - - _Poitos_, slaves of the mission Indians, ii. 15. - - _Pomabamba_, province and town of La Plata, ii. 182. - - _Pongo de Manseriche_, or crevice of the false Maranon, i. 322. 333. - - _Ponce de Leon_ explores Florida, i. 9. - - _Popayan_, government of New Granada, i. 275. - - ----, city of New Granada, scite, environs, rivers, i. 279. Volcanoes, - buildings, population, 280. - - _Popo_, silver mines of La Plata, ii. 178. - - _Popocatepetl_ volcano, i. 35. 141. - - _Population_ of New Spain, i. 47. Of Mexico, 58. Of Puerto Rico, 182. - Of Cuba, 187. Of New Granada, 214. Of Caraccas, ii. 2. Of Peru, 76. Of - Spanish America, 108. 318. Of La Plata, 156. Of Chili, 253. - - _Porco_, city of La Plata, ii. 177. - - ----, mountains of La Plata, ii. 177. - - _Porcupine_, American, ii. 257. - - _Pore_, city of New Granada, i. 264. - - _Porrudos_, river of La Plata, ii. 165. - - _Port_ Sir Francis Drake, i. 4. 76. 77. - - _Port_ San Francisco, i. 4. 77. - - _Porto Bello_, city of New Granada, scite, foundation, i. 235. - Fortifications, harbour, climate, 236. Inhabitants, commerce, 237. - Edifices, &c., 238. - - _Porto Cavello_, city of Caraccas, scite, history, ii. 50. Buildings, - population, trade, 51. Climate, &c., 52. - - _Portuguesa_, river of Caraccas, ii. 6. 66. - - _Potatoe_, not indigenous to Mexico, only found in South America at the - conquest, i. 38. - - _Poto_ mines of La Plata, ii. 189. - - _Pototaca_ lead mines of La Plata, ii. 179. - - _Potosi_, mines of, ii. 174. - - _Potosi_, city of La Plata, scite, climate, environs, mines, ii. 174. - Foundation, mint, population, buildings, ii. 175. - - _Precipice_ of the Silla de Caraccas, ii. 8. - - _Price_ of provisions in Choco, i. 273. - - ---- given for European animals in the early times of the Spanish - colonies of Peru, ii. 131. - - _Produce_ of the mines in the New World, not so great as has been - imagined, i. 42. Actual amount of, ii. 320. - - _Pron_, bundle of threads used to record events in Chili, ii. 233. - - _Protector_ of the Indians, title of Las Casas, ii. 22. - - _Pucara_, remarkable ruins in La Plata, ii. 190. - - _Puchacay_, province of Chili, ii. 277. - - _Puda_, or wild goat of Chili, ii. 256. - - _Puebla, La_, province of New Spain, boundaries, extent, i. 138. - Produce, history, climate, and ancient capital, i. 139. Present - capital, 140. Mountains and antiquities, 141. Towns, 142. Rivers, 143. - - ---- _de los Angelos_, city of New Spain, situation, cathedral, - buildings, bishopric, trade, environs, population, height, i. 140. - - ---- _Nueva_, city of New Granada, i. 179. - - _Puelches_ Indians, ii. 288. - - _Puerto Rico_ island, situation, extent, history, i. 180. Land-crabs, - produce, 181. Population, capital, 182. - - ---- ----, city of, i. 182. - - ---- _Viejo_, district of New Granada, i. 311. - - _Pulque_, strong liquor made from the agave, i. 39. - - _Puma_, or American Lion, ii. 256. - - _Puna_, city of La Plata, ii. 188. - - ---- island, i. 312. - - _Punta de la Galera_, so called on account of Columbus' ship touching - at it, ii. 27. - - ---- _de Santa Elena_, district of New Granada, i. 312. - - _Purace_, volcano, i. 280. - - ----, village of Popayan, i. 281. - - _Purissima Concepcion de Catorce_, mines of New Spain, profit of, i. 44. - - _Puros_ river, ii. 194. - - _Puruays_, ancient inhabitants of Quito, i. 284. - - _Pusambio_, or Vinegar River, i. 281. - - _Putacuao_, lake of Caraccas, i. 40. - - _Pyramid_ erected on the banks of the Paraguay, as a boundary mark - between Spanish and Portuguese America, ii. 164. - - - Q - - _Quaquas_ Indians, ii. 14. - - _Quebrada_, or crevice of Tipe, i. 254. - - _Quelendama_ mountain, i. 299. - - _Quelenes_, Indian country of Guatimala, i. 164. - - _Quesaltenango_, district of Guatimala, i. 163. - - _Queretaro_, city of New Spain, i. 133. - - _Quesada_, Gonzalo Ximenes de, conquest of New Granada by, i. 214. 267. - - _Quetlavaca_, or Cuitlahuatzin King of Mexico, i. 117. - - _Quiabaslan_, i. 24. - - _Quibo_, or Caybo isle, i. 204. - - _Quicaras_ isles, Pacific, i. 203. - - _Quichuan_, language of Peru, ii. 154. - - _Quillota_, province and city of Chili, ii. 267. - - _Quinchuan_, isle of Chiloe, ii. 287. - - _Quindiu_ mountain, i. 221. 276. Pass of, 277. - - _Quiriquina_, Isle of Chili, ii. 282. - - _Quispicanchi_, district of Peru, ii. 143. - - _Quito_, presidency of New Granada, boundaries, i. 283. Extent, - districts, history, 284. Capital, 293. Features and mountains, 297. - Provinces, 303. - - ----, city of, foundation, scite, vicinity, i. 293. Climate, - earthquakes, population, 294. Manners and customs of the inhabitants, - public buildings, i. 295. Trade, height, 296. Rivers, 297. - - ----, jurisdiction of New Granada, i. 305. - - _Quixos y Macas_, government of New Granada, i. 334. - - - R - - _Raleigh_, Sir Walter, voyage of, to Guiana, ii. 71. - - _Ramirez_, isle in Lake Tamiagua, i. 193. - - _Rancagua_, province and city of Chili, ii. 272. - - _Ransom_, immense, given by Atabalipa, ii. 93. - - _Rapel_, village and cavern in Chili, ii. 274. - - _Raspadura_ canal, unites the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans, i. 273. - - _Region_ of perpetual snow in Mexico, i. 47. - - _Real de los Alamos_, town of New Spain, i. 92. - - _Realejo_, town and port of Guatimala, i. 167. - - _Religion_ of New Spain, i. 48. Of ancient Mexicans, i. 126. Of the - Muyscas, 218. 227. Of the ancient Peruvians, ii. 104. Of the wandering - tribes on the banks of the Maranon, 153. Of the ancient Chilese, 233. - - _Repartimientos_, history of, ii. 106. - - _Revenue_ of New Spain, i. 55. Of New Granada, 215. Of Peru, ii. 76. Of - Spanish America, 320. - - _Revillagigedo_ isle, i. 202. - - _Riobamba_, district of New Granada, i. 306. - - ---- city of New Granada, i. 307. - - _Rio Bravo del Norte_, i. 45. 70. - - ---- _Colorado_, New Spain, i. 45. - - ---- _Conchos_, or de Salinas, New Spain, i. 94. - - ---- _de la Hacha_, district and town of New Granada, i. 259. - - ---- _de la Plata_, discovery of, ii. 156. Description, 164. - - ---- _Grande de la Magdalena._ See _Magdalena_. - - ---- _Negro_, i. 327. 332. ii. 72. - - ---- _Santiago_, or Rio Lerma, New Spain, i. 100. - - ---- _Vermelho_, or Vermejo, ii. 166. - - ---- _Verde_, New Spain, i. 155. - - _Riochico_, town of New Spain, i. 90. - - _Rioxa_, city of La Plata, ii. 213. - - _Rivers_ of Florida, i. 14. Of New Spain, 45. Of Caraccas, ii. 10. Of - La Plata, ii. 164. Of Chili, 250. - - _Road_ of the Mexican plain, great length of, i. 35. From Cumanacoa, - highly picturesque, ii. 33. From Buenos Ayres to Potosi, 209. - - _Roads_ of New Spain, i. 41. Over the Andes, in Chili, ii. 248. - - _Roca Partida_ isle, i. 202. - - _Roderic de Triana_ first sees the American land, i. 2. - - _Roebuck_ isle, Florida, i. 19. - - _Roguagualo_ lake of La Plata, ii. 194. - - _Roncador_ isle, i. 199. - - _Rosario_, mine of, New Spain, i. 92. - - _Ruatan_ isle, i. 198. - - _Ruminagui_ usurps the sceptre of Quito, i. 288. - - _Ruminavi_ mountain, i. 299. 300. - - - S - - _Sacrifices_ of the Muyscas, i. 218. 227. - - ----, island of, i. 193. - - _Salado_, river of La Plata, ii. 207. - - _Salamanca_, town of New Spain, i. 102. - - _Salis_, discovery of the Rio de la Plata by, ii. 156. 164. - - _Salt_ plains and lakes of La Plata, ii. 208. - - ---- works of Araya, in Caraccas, ii. 30. - - _Salta_, city of La Plata, ii. 214. - - _Saltillo_, town of New Spain, i. 94. - - _Sana_, town and district of Peru, ii. 123. - - _San Antonio_, town of Caraccas, ii. 69. - - ---- ---- _de Bejar_, fort of Texas, i. 98. - - ---- ---- _de los Cues_, ancient fort, i. 153. - - _San Bartolomeo de Chillan_, town of Chili, ii. 277. - - ---- _Benedito_ isle, Pacific, i. 202. - - ---- _Benito_ isle, Pacific, i. 200. - - ---- _Bernardo de Tarija_, town of La Plata, ii. 177. - - ---- ----, bay in the gulf of Mexico, i. 199. - - ---- _Blas_, port of New Spain, i. 101. - - ---- _Buenaventura_ mission, California, i. 83. - - ---- _Carlos_, town of Caraccas, ii. 56. - - ---- ----, fort of Guiana, ii. 70. - - ---- ----, town of Chiloe, ii. 286. - - _San Christoval de Acochala_, silver mine, ii. 178. - - ---- ----, lake of Mexico, i. 130. - - _San Felipe_, city of Chili, i. 270. - - ---- ----, town of Caraccas, ii. 57. - - ---- ---- _y San Jago_, town of New Spain, i. 92. - - _San Fernando de Apure_, town of Caraccas, ii. 68. - - ---- ----, town of Chili, ii. 273. - - _San Francisco_, mission of California, i. 82. - - ---- _Jayme_, town of Caraccas, ii. 68. - - ---- _Joachin de Omaguas_, Spanish fort on the Maranon, ii. 151. - - ---- _Josef_, town of Florida, i. 14. - - ---- _Jose_, mission of California, i. 82. - - ---- _Juan de la Frontera_, city of La Plata, ii. 219. - - ---- ---- _de los Llanos_, province and town of New Granada, i. 263. - - ---- ---- _del Pao_, town of Caraccas, ii. 57. - - ---- ---- _del Rio_, town of New Biscay, i. 94. City of Mexico, 133. - - ---- ----, river of Florida, i. 15. Town of Nicaragua, 168. River of - Nicaragua, importance of, 169. - - _San Lazaro_, fort of Carthagena, i. 247. - - ---- _Luis de Cura_, town of Caraccas, ii. 57. - - ---- ---- _de Gonzaga_, city of Chili, ii. 280. - - ---- ----, island in the bay of San Bernardo, i. 193. - - ---- ---- _de Loyola_, city of La Plata ii. 219. - - ---- ---- _Potosi_, intendancy of New Spain, boundaries, extent, - population, climate, i. 95. Mines, capital, 96. - - ---- ---- ----, city of New Spain, i. 96. - - _San Martin_ isle, Pacific, i. 200. - - ---- _Miguel_, town and district of Guatimala, i. 162. - - ---- ---- _de Ibarra_, city and province of New Granada, i. 303. - - ---- _Nicolas_, isle in the Pacific, i. 200. - - ---- _Pablo de Omaguas_, Portuguese fort on the Maranon, ii. 151. - - ---- _Pedro_, town of Caraccas, ii. 64. Town of Peru, 123. - - ---- _Salvador_ isle, Pacific, i. 200. - - ---- ----, town and district of Guatimala, i. 162. - - ---- _Sebastian_, colony founded by Ojeda, i. 212. - - ---- _Sebastian de Buenavista_, town of New Granada, i. 250. - - ---- ---- _de los Reyes_, town of Caraccas, ii. 57. - - _Santa Ana_, mission of California, i. 84. - - ---- _Barbara_, mission of California, i. 82. - - _Santa Catalina_, or Providence Isle, i. 199. - - ---- _Cruz_, mission of California, i. 82. - - ---- ---- isle, Pacific, discovered by Cortez, i. 201. - - ---- ----, town of Cuba, i. 192. - - ---- ----, village of New Mexico, i. 69. - - ---- ---- _de la Sierra_, province and town of La Plata, ii. 192. - - _Santa Fe_, province of New Granada, i. 264. - - ---- ---- _de Bogota_, capital of New Granada, scite, foundation, - buildings, height, population, i. 225. Climate, viceroy, archbishopric, - environs, 226. Mint, 228. - - ---- ----, city of New Spain, i. 69. - - ---- ----, city of Paraguay, ii. 227. - - ---- ----, aqueduct of Mexico, i. 66. - - ---- ---- _de Antioquia._ See _Antioquia_. - - _Santa Maria_, name of the ship in which Columbus sailed, i. 2. - - ---- ---- _el Antigua del Darien_, colony founded by Balboa, i. 212. - First settlement in Spanish North America, 240. - - _Santa Maria_, or Talca, isle of Chili, ii. 282. - - _Santa Marta_, province of New Granada, boundaries, discovery, history, - i. 252. Climate, productions, features of, 253. Rivers, 254. Cacao - plant, 257. Population, capital, 258. Towns, 259. - - ---- ----, city of New Granada, i. 258. - - _Santa Rosa de Cosiquiriachi_, town of New Spain, i. 94. - - _Santa Rosa_ isle, Pacific, i. 202. - - _Santanilla_ isle, i. 199. - - _Santiago_, capital of Chili, scite, population, streets, buildings, - squares, suburbs, ii. 263. Cathedral, mint, governor, bishopric, trade, - ii. 264. - - _Santiago_, province of Chili, ii. 271. - - _Santiago del Estero_, city of La Plata, ii. 212. - - _Santo Tome_, capital of Guiana, ii. 72. - - _St. Anastasia_, isle of, Florida, i. 19. - - _St. Augustine_, city of Florida, i. 11. - - _St. Felix_ and St. Ambrose isles, Pacific, ii. 296. - - _St. John's_, river of Florida, i. 14. - - _St. Lorenzo_ isle, Pacific, ii. 296. - - _St. Mark's_, town of Florida, i. 12. - - _St. Martin_, plains of, ii. 221. - - _St. Mary's_ river, boundary between Florida and the United States, i. - 14. - - _St. Saverio_, town of Chili, ii. 275. - - _Sangai_, or Mecas, volcano, i. 301. - - _Sangallan_ isle, Pacific, ii. 296. - - _Sansonate_, town and district of Guatimala, i. 162. - - _Sapotes_, i. 245. - - _Sariacu_, village on the Maranon, ii. 152. - - _Savannah_ of the Orinoco, i. 223. - - _Sayri Tupac_, 17th and last Inca of Peru, ii. 86. - - _Scotch_ Darien Company, i. 241. - - _Sechura_, town of Peru, ii. 122. - - _Sensitive_ plant, i. 242. - - _Serrana_ isles, i. 199. - - _Serranilla_ isles, i. 199. - - _Settlements_ formerly made in the Straits of Magellan, ii. 291. - - _Sicasica_, province and town of La Plata, ii. 181. - - _Sierra de Canatagua_ divides North from South America, i. 5. 230. - - ---- _Madre_, range of mountains, i. 35. 68. 73. - - ---- _de las Grullas_, i. 36. 75. - - ---- _Gorda_, i. 98. - - ---- _Verde_, i. 36. - - ---- _de San Martin_, i. 151. - - ---- ---- _Pacaraimo_, i. 222. - - ---- ---- _Quineropaca_, i. 222. - - ---- ---- _Paria_, ii. 39. - - ---- ---- _San Carlos_, ii. 154. - - _Silla de Caraccas_, i. 220. ii. 8. - - _Silla Casa_, mercury veins in Peru, ii. 136. - - _Silva_, exploratory journey of, in Guiana, ii. 71. - - _Silver_ exported from New Spain, i. 42. - - ---- produced annually in New Spain, i. 43. - - ---- native, found in Batopilas, i. 43. - - _Sinaruco_ river, ii. 67. - - _Sinchi Roca_, 2d Peruvian Inca, ii. 85. - - _Singular_ monuments in Cuyo, ii. 218. - - _Sir Francis Drake_ takes Porto Bello, i. 238. - - ---- ---- ---- takes Carthagena, i. 249. - - _Sisal_, port of Yucatan, i. 158. - - _Slave_ trade, origin of, ii. 22. - - _Slaves_ of New Spain, i. 48. - - _Snow_, limits of perpetual snow in Mexico, i. 47. - - _Socorro_, town of New Granada, i. 270. - - _Socorro_ isle, Pacific, i. 202. - - _Soconusco_, district and town of Guatimala, i. 161. - - _Solola_, district of Guatimala, i. 162. - - _Sombrerete_, town and mines of New Spain, i. 99. - - _Sonora_, intendancy of New Spain, boundaries, districts of, capital, - i. 86. - - ----, district of New Spain, i. 88. - - ----, city of New Spain, i. 89. - - _Sotara_, volcano, i. 280. - - _Sources_ of the Apurimac or Maranon, ii. 149. - - ---- of the Magdalena and Cauca, i. 277. - - _Steam engine_ much wanted in the American mines, i. 42. - - _Suchitepeque_, town and province of Guatimala, i. 162. - - _Sucumbios_ missions of New Granada, i. 336. - - _Sumasinta_, river of New Spain, i. 149. - - _Sunchuli_ mountain, celebrated for its gold mines, ii. 185. - - _Sutiles_, or limes, use of in cookery, i. 245. - - - T - - _Tabasco_, province of New Spain, former extent of, i. 147. Climate, - productions, chief town, 148. Lakes, towns, rivers, 149. Volcanoes, 150. - - ---- island, i. 148. 194. - - ----, city of New Spain, i. 148. - - ---- river, i. 149. - - _Tacames_, province of New Granada, i. 282. - - ----, city of New Granada, i. 283. - - _Tacarigua_, Indian name of Lake Valencia, ii. 17. - - _Tacna_, town of Peru, ii. 150. - - _Tacubaya_, town of New Spain, i. 133. - - _Talca_, or San Augustin, city of Chili, ii. 275. - - _Talcaguana_, road of, in the bay of Concepcion, ii. 279. - - _Tambo_, or palace of the Incas, i. 301. - - _Tamiagua_ lake, i. 149. - - _Tampico_ river, i. 149. - - _Taquari_, river of La Plata, ii. 165. - - _Tarabitas_, or flying bridges, i. 257. - - _Tarma_, intendancy of Peru, ii. 126. - - ----, city of Peru, ii. 128. - - _Tavantin-suyu_, ancient name of Peru, ii. 155. - - _Tasco_, city of New Spain, i. 133. - - _Tea_ of Paraguay, ii. 200 - - _Tehuantepeque_, city of New Spain, i. 153. - - _Temperature_ of the air in Mexico, i. 46. - - _Temple of the Sun_ at Cuzco, ii. 143. - - _Teneriffe_, town of New Granada, i. 259. - - _Tenochtitlan_, original name of Mexico, i. 107. - - _Teocallies_, or Mexican temples, i. 52. - - _Teotihuacan_, San Juan de, temple, i. 132. - - _Teotl_, name of the Deity in Mexico, i. 126. - - _Tequehuen_, isle of Chonos Archipelago, ii. 287. - - _Tequendoma_, cataract of, i. 224. 226. Tradition concerning, 228. - - _Texas_, province of New Spain, i. 97. - - _Tezcuco_, lake of Mexico, i. 129. - - _Tiahuanaco_, singular monuments at, ii. 184. - - _Tibiquari_, river of La Plata, ii. 166. - - _Tiburon_ isle, Gulf of California, i. 201. - - _Tides_, great difference of, at Panama and Porto Bello, i. 234. - - _Tierra Firme_, general name for Panama, Veragua, and Darien, i. 229. - - ---- ---- Proper, or Panama. See _Panama_. - - ---- ----, conjecture concerning the application of this name to - Panama, i. 229. - - _Tiguesgalpa_, district and town of Guatimala, i. 162. - - _Timana_, town of New Granada, i, 281. - - _Tinta_, town of Peru, ii. 145. - - _Tipuanis_, river of La Plata, ii. 177. - - _Tisingal_, mine of Guatimala, i. 176. - - _Titicaca_, or Chucuito Lake, ii. 163. 185. - - _Tlacopan_ kingdom, i. 104. - - _Tlacotalpan_, town of New Spain, i. 149. - - _Tlascala_, city of New Spain, i. 139. - - _Tlascalan_ republic, i. 139. - - _Tlatelolco_ town, i. 108. - - _Tlaxcallan_ republic, i. 103. - - _Tocaima_, town of New Granada, i. 271. - - _Tocunos_, river port of Varinas, ii. 65. - - _Tocuyo_, city of Caraccas, ii. 52. - - ----, river of Caraccas, ii. 45. - - _Todo Hierro_, castle of Porto Bello, i. 236. - - _Tolosa_, first Captain General of Caraccas, ii. 21. - - _Tolu_ balsam, i. 242. 250. - - ----, town of New Granada, i. 250. - - _Toluca_, city of New Spain, i. 133. - - ---- mountain, i. 129. - - _Tomahave_, mines of La Plata, ii. 177. - - _Tomina_, district of La Plata, ii. 176. - - _Topia_, cordillera of, i. 73. - - _Topocalma_, port of Chili, ii. 274. - - _Toqui_, great chief of the Araucanians, ii. 290. - - _Tortuga Salada_ isle, ii. 298. - - _Totonicapan_, district of Guatimala, i. 163. - - _Totoral_, isle of Chili, ii. 282. - - _Toultecs_ or Toltecs, nation, i. 104. - - _Traditions_ of the Muyscas, i. 228. - - _Trexo_ or Truxo, a negress, great age of, ii. 206. - - _Trinidad_, discovery of, by Columbus, ii. 19. - - ----, town of Cuba, i. 191. - - _Triste_ isle, Gulf of Mexico, i. 194. - - _Truxillo_, intendancy of Peru, boundaries, climate, districts, ii. - 120. Capital, 124. - - _Truxillo_, jurisdiction of Peru, ii. 124. - - ----, city of Peru, scite, foundation, buildings, population, - fortifications, ii. 124. - - ----, city of Caraccas, ii. 64. - - ----, city of Guatimala, i. 175. - - _Tucuman_, government of La Plata, boundaries, ii. 204. Climate, - features, history, 205. Capital, 211. - - ----, city of La Plata, ii. 211. - - _Tula_, river of New Spain, i. 134. 149. - - _Tulmero_, town of Caraccas, ii. 54. - - _Tumbez_, town of Peru, ii. 121. - - _Tumbibamba_, battle of, i. 287. - - _Tumiriquiri_ mountain, ii. 34. - - _Tumulus_, singular one in Quito, i. 301. - - _Tumuli_ of Quito, i. 304. - - _Tunguragua_ mountain, i. 302. - - ----, or false Maranon river, i. 326. - - _Tunja_, disappearance of Bochica at, i. 217. 271. - - ----, town of New Granada, i. 271. - - _Tupac Amaru_, the 1st, revolt of, and death, ii. 100. - - ---- ----, the 2d, or, Jose Gabriel Condorcanqui, revolt of, crowned by - the Peruvians, wages dreadful war against the whites, ii. 101. - - _Tupac Yupanqui_, 12th Inca of Peru, ii. 86. - - _Tupungato_, mountain of Chili, ii. 249. - - _Tuquillo_, plains of, i. 221. - - _Turbaco_, village and volcanitos of, New Granada, i. 251. - - _Turco_, mines of La Plata, ii. 180. - - _Turneff_ isle, i. 197. - - _Tuy_, river of Caraccas, ii. 46. - - _Tuyu_, territory of Buenos Ayres, ii. 228. - - _Tuxtla_, volcano of New Spain, i. 151. - - _Tzapoteca_, district of New Spain, i. 154. - - - U - - _Ucayale_, or true Maranon, i. 326. - - _Ucucuamo_ mountain, a supposed El Dorado, i. 222. - - _Ulmens_, chiefs of the Araucanians, ii. 290. - - _Ulua, St. Juan de_, island of, fort of, light-house, i. 193. - - _Umama_, peak of, i. 221. - - _Unare_, river of Caraccas, ii. 41. - - _University_ of Mexico, i. 61. - - _Urcos_, town of Peru, ii. 143. - - _Urubamba_ river, ii. 144. - - _Uruguay_, Jesuits' territories, ii. 199. - - ----, or river of the Missions, ii. 166. 224. - - _Uspallata_, silver mines of Chili, ii. 217. 252. - - - V - - _Vaca de Castro_, government of Peru by, i. 292. ii. 99. - - _Valdivia_, conquest of Chili by, ii. 235. - - ----, fortress and city of Chili, history, buildings, fortifications, - environs, harbour, ii. 281. - - _Valencia_, city of Caraccas, ii. 55. - - ----, lake of Caraccas, ii. 16. - - _Valenciana_, mines of, the richest in New Spain, description of, - expences of, profit, i. 43. Height of, 102. - - _Valladolid_ or Mechoacan, intendancy of New Spain, boundaries and - extent, i. 134. Features, 135. Volcano of Xorullo, 135. Population, - 137. Capital and towns, productions, 137. - - _Valladolid_, city of New Spain, scite, description of, aqueduct, - population, &c., i. 137. - - _Valley_ of Caraccas, i. 254. Of Aragua, _ib._ Of Monai, or the Llanos, - _ib._ Of the Orinoco, ii. 9. - - _Valparaiso_, city and port of Chili, scite, history, ii. 267. - Buildings, trade, 268. Harbour, 269. - - _Vampyre bat_, i. 243. - - _Varinas_, province of Caraccas, ii. 65. - - ----, city of Caraccas, ii. 68. - - _Varu_ isle, Caribbean Sea, ii. 297. - - _Venezuela_, origin of the name, ii. 16. 43. - - ----, province of, boundaries, population, soil, climate, ii. 43. - Features, 44. Commerce, 47. Capital, 49. - - _Vasco Nunez de Balboa_, discovery of the Pacific by, i. 213. - - _Vega de Supia_, silver mines of New Granada, i. 272. - - _Vela Blasco_, first viceroy of Peru, ii. 99. - - _Velez_, town of New Granada, i. 270. - - _Vera Cruz_, intendancy of New Spain, boundaries, extent, climate, i. - 143. Singular features of, productions, population, 144. Capital, 145. - Towns, 146. Volcanoes, 150. Antiquities, 151. - - ----, city of New Spain, situation, defence, port, history, buildings, - i. 145. Population, vicinity, yellow fever, 146. - - _Vera Cruz el Antigua_, town of New Spain, i. 147. - - _Veragua_, first European colony established on the continent of - America, i. 179. - - ----, province of New Granada, i. 229. Boundaries, discovery of, by - Columbus, i. 177. 211. Description of, climate, mines, capital, 178. - Towns, 179. - - ----, Duke of, title of Columbus, i. 177. - - ----, city of New Granada, i. 178. - - _Vera-Paz_, province of Guatimala, boundaries, i. 165. Extent, climate, - features, trade, capital, 166. - - ----, or Coban, city of Guatimala, i. 166. - - _Vermelho_, or Vermejo river, ii. 166. 207. - - _Vernon_, Admiral, attack on Porto Bello by, i. 238. Attack on - Carthagena by, 249. - - _Vicente Yanez Pinzon_, discovery of the Maranon by, i. 329. Explores - Paria, ii. 10. - - _Viceroys_ of New Spain, i. 31. Of New Granada, 214. Of Peru, ii. 100. - - _Viceroyalty_ of New Spain. See _New Spain_. - - ---- of New Granada, erection of, i. 293. - - ---- of Peru, ii. 75. - - ---- of Buenos Ayres, or La Plata, ii. 155. - - _Victoria_, town of Caraccas, ii. 54. - - ----, or Tabasco, town of New Spain, i. 148. - - _Vicuna_, or Peruvian camel, ii. 137. 253. - - _Vilcamayo_ river, i. 326. ii. 144. - - _Vilcanota_, chain of, boundary between Peru and La Plata, ii. 146. - - _Vilcas Guaman_, district and town of Peru, ii. 139. - - _Villa Rica de la Vera Cruz_, founded by Cortez, i. 23. - - _Villa Rica_, town of Paraguay, ii. 204. - - ---- ----, volcano of Chili, ii. 249. - - ---- ----, lake of Chili, ii. 250. - - _Villa Hermosa_, town of New Spain, i. 149. - - _Villa de Leon_, town of New Spain, i. 103. - - _Villa del Principe_, town of Cuba, i. 191. - - _Vilumilla_, toqui of the Chilese, ii. 243. - - _Vinegar_ river, singular stream of Popayan, i. 281. - - _Violence_ of the winds on the Andes, i. 302. - - _Vizcacha_, or Chilese fox, ii. 256. - - _Volcanitos de Turbaco_, i. 251. - - _Volcano_ of Guayna Patina, in Peru, ii. 148. - - ---- of Peteroa, in Chili, ii. 249. 274. - - ---- of Villa Rica, in Chili, ii. 249. - - _Volcanoes_ of New Spain, i. 36. - - ---- of the Andes, i. 224. - - ---- of Chili, ii. 249. - - _Voyages_ of Columbus. See _Columbus_. - - ---- of different travellers on the Maranon, i. 330. - - ---- of Father Girval up the Maranon, ii. 151. - - ---- of Magalhaens, ii. 292. - - - W - - _Welsers_, a German company, to whom Caraccas was intrusted, ii. 20. - - _West India Isles_ of Spain, number of, political divisions, i. 179. - - _Wheat_, introduction of, into Quito, i. 305. - - ----, quantity cultivated in New Spain, i. 38. - - _Whites_, number of, in New Spain, i. 47. - - ----, number of, in Spanish America, ii. 319. - - _Workmen_ and labourers in the Mexican mines often steal the metals, i. - 44. - - - X - - _Xalapa_, city of New Spain, gives its name to jalap, i. 39. - Population, scite, climate, height, i. 147. - - _Xaquijaguana_ valley, place where Gonzalo Pizarro was taken prisoner, - ii. 144. - - _Xarayes_, lake of La Plata, ii. 162. - - _Xauxa_, district and town of Peru, ii. 137. - - ----, or Jauja, river of Peru, ii. 127. - - _Xexemani_, suburb of Carthagena, i. 246. - - _Xexuy_, river of La Plata, ii. 166. - - _Xochicalco_ lake, i. 130. - - ----, monument of, i. 132. - - _Xorullo_ volcano, singular formation of, i. 135. - - _Xuxuy_, or San Salvador, city of La Plata, ii. 213. - - - Y - - _Yaguache_, district of New Granada, i. 312. - - _Yanos_, fort of New Spain. See _Janos_. - - _Yahuar Huacac_, 8th Inca of Peru, ii. 85. - - _Yapura_ river, i. 327. 332. - - _Yaracuy_, river of Caraccas, ii. 46. - - _Year_ of the Moscas, i. 218. - - _Yecorato_, mines of New Spain, i. 91. - - _Yellow_ fever at Caraccas, ii. 6. At La Guayra, 7. - - _Yopez_, river of New Spain, i. 143. - - _Ypacary_, lake of La Plata, ii. 163. - - _Ypoa_, lake of La Plata, ii. 163. - - _Yquilao_, isle of the Archipelago of Chonos, ii. 287. - - _Yvari_ river, ii. 154. - - _Yucatan_ or Merida, intendancy of, boundaries, extent, productions, - climate, i. 155. Mountains, rivers, inhabitants, British settlers, 156. - Logwood cutting, Indians, 157. Population, capital, towns, 158. - - _Yupanqui_, 11th Inca of Peru, ii. 85. - - _Yuranqui_, plain of, place where a degree of the meridian was measured - by the Spanish and French mathematicians, i. 297. - - _Yurba_ river, ii. 154. - - _Yutay_ river, ii. 154. - - - Z - - _Zacatecas_, intendancy of, boundaries, extent, population, mines, - capital, and towns, i. 99. - - ---- ----, city of New Spain, i. 99. - - _Zacatula_, town of New Spain, i. 134. - - ----, river of New Spain, i. 134. - - _Zamba_, town of New Granada, i. 251. - - _Zaque_ or Xaque, title of the Prince of the Moscas, i. 321. - - _Zeruma_, town of New Granada, i. 321. - - _Zinu_, town of New Granada, i. 251. - - _Zippas_, chiefs of the Moscas, i. 217. - - _Zitara_, canal of, unites the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans, i. 273. - - _Zumpango_, lake of Mexico, i. 130. - - -FINIS. - - Printed by A. 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