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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d7b82bc --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,4 @@ +*.txt text eol=lf +*.htm text eol=lf +*.html text eol=lf +*.md text eol=lf diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..096ea53 --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #51280 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/51280) diff --git a/old/51280-0.txt b/old/51280-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index b896ee1..0000000 --- a/old/51280-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,13377 +0,0 @@ -Project Gutenberg's Newfoundland to Cochin China, by Mrs. Howard Vincent - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license - - -Title: Newfoundland to Cochin China - By the Golden Wave, New Nippon, and the Forbidden City - -Author: Mrs. Howard Vincent - -Release Date: February 23, 2016 [EBook #51280] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NEWFOUNDLAND TO COCHIN CHINA *** - - - - -Produced by Jane Robins and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive) - - - - - - - - - - -NEWFOUNDLAND TO - -COCHIN CHINA. - -[Illustration: TRAIN EMERGING FROM SNOW-SHED. Page 90.] - - - - - NEWFOUNDLAND - TO - COCHIN CHINA - - _BY THE GOLDEN WAVE, NEW NIPPON, - AND THE FORBIDDEN CITY_ - - BY - MRS. HOWARD VINCENT - AUTHORESS OF "40,000 MILES OVER LAND AND WATER." - - WITH REPORTS ON BRITISH TRADE AND INTERESTS - IN CANADA, JAPAN, AND CHINA - - By COL. HOWARD VINCENT, C.B., M.P. - - WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS - - LONDON - SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON & COMPANY - _Limited_ - St. Dunstan's House - FETTER LANE, FLEET STREET, E.C. - 1892 - [_All rights reserved_] - - - - - TO MY CHILD - - VERA, - - IN THE HOPE THAT ONE DAY SHE MAY TRAVEL - - AS HER PARENTS HAVE DONE, - - AND - - WITH AS MUCH INSTRUCTION - - AND - - ENJOYMENT. - - -The favourable reception vouchsafed to "40,000 Miles over Land and -Water" has induced me to yield to the kind wishes of many Friends and -Constituents, and to record the impressions of my second circle round -the world. - - ETHEL GWENDOLINE VINCENT. - - 1, Grosvenor Square. - _May 31st, 1892._ - - - - -CONTENTS. - - - CHAPTER I. - - PAGE - - OUR PREMIER COLONY 1 - - - CHAPTER II. - - THE MARITIME PROVINCES, AND THROUGH LAKE - AND FOREST, TO THE QUEEN CITY 21 - - - CHAPTER III. - - BY THE GOLDEN WAVE TO THE FAR WEST 40 - - - CHAPTER IV. - - THE CANADIAN ROCKIES AND THE SELKIRKS 70 - - - CHAPTER V. - - TO THE LAND OF THE RISING SUN 105 - - - CHAPTER VI. - - NEW NIPPON 149 - - - CHAPTER VII. - - THE WESTERN CAPITAL AND INLAND SEA 183 - - - CHAPTER VIII. - - THE YELLOW LAND 217 - - - CHAPTER IX. - - THE CELESTIAL CITY 247 - - - CHAPTER X. - - THE FORBIDDEN CITY 272 - - - CHAPTER XI. - - SHANGHAI AND HONG-KONG 297 - - - CHAPTER XII. - - COCHIN CHINA 311 - - - APPENDIX. - - BRITISH AND AMERICAN TRADE IN CANADA 325 - - BRITISH TRADE WITH JAPAN 337 - - BRITISH INTERESTS IN CHINA 348 - - - - -LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. - - - PAGE - - St. John's, Newfoundland 3 - - Plan of a Manitoban Township 53 - - The Ranche Pupil 66 - - Howe Pass 70 - - Kananaskis Falls 73 - - Cascade Mountain, Banff 74 and 75 - - Bird's-eye View of Banff 77 - - Bow Valley 79 - - Banff Springs Hotel, Canadian National Park 80 - - The Pool, Hot Springs, Banff 81 - - Mount Stephen, the King of the Canadian Rockies 85 - - Train emerging from Snow-shed 90 - - Great Glacier, Canadian Rockies 92 - - The Loops 94 - - Frazer Cañon 97 and 98 - - "A Little Mother" 129 - - The Red Lacquer Bridge, Nikko 139 - - Pagoda of the Temple at Nikko 142 - - Mausoleum of Yeyásu 144 - - An Imperial Garden, Tokio 152 - - A Typhoon 159 - - Street of Enoshima, Japan 163 - - My Carriage at Kioto 189 - - A Chinese Street 229 - - Our Home on the Peiho 235 - - How I went to Peking 241 - - A Gate of Peking 250 - - A Street in Peking 261 - - Her Ladyship's Foot 270 - - All that is seen of the Forbidden City 278 - - Homage to "The Son of Heaven" 280 - - The Great Wall 295 - - Harbour of Hong-Kong 305 - - Botanical Garden, Saigon 314 - - - - -NEWFOUNDLAND TO COCHIN CHINA. - - - - -CHAPTER I. - -OUR PREMIER COLONY. - - -Land in sight when I awake at 5 a.m., a grey streak across the oval of -the port. With what intense satisfaction we gaze on the line of barren -rock, which has a suspicion of green horizon on the summit of the grey -cliffs, only those can picture who have been at sea for some time. - -Presently we glide past Cape Race, with its neat signal station on -the cliffs, and know that in a few minutes the arrival of our ship, -the _Nova Scotian_, will be signalled at St. John's. We see a few -fish-curing sheds on the tiny bays of yellow sand, and some white -specks that represent cottages. They are dreary little settlements, and -near them the fishing-boats pass us, returning home after their rough -night's work, for this is the inhospitable coast of Newfoundland, the -Premier Colony of England. - -As the morning wears on and the sun rises, it is a pretty scene. The -great blue restless ocean, with its mighty Atlantic swell, lashing -itself in spray and foam, with a long white line breaking and -disappearing, re-appearing and dying against the bleak rock-bound -coast. Sometimes the cliffs are formed of strata of grey lava or -limestone, at others they are of rich red sandstone, colours that are -intensified with the peculiar clearness of the atmosphere. Above all, -there is a pure blue sky, with white clouds chasing each other and -casting shadows along the coast. Now and again we pass large fishing -luggers sailing swiftly by in the brisk breeze. Some have tawny orange -or deep brown sails, others pure white ones, looking like wings spread -in the sunlight, gliding swiftly and silently past. It is a rich bit of -colouring to eyes tired and sad with the monotony of an impenetrable, -all-surrounding line of sky and ocean. - -The approach to St. John's is romantic. The barrier of cliffs still -rises to larboard, without an apparent break or indentation, whilst -they say that we shall be anchored at the wharf in ten minutes. Another -scanning of the coast reveals at length two rocks rising higher than -the others, with a slight fall between them. The ship ploughs along -broadside, and until exactly opposite this opening. With a few final -plungings, and last rollings and tossings, she is brought sharply -round, and we face the harbour of St. John's. The great brown rocks, -sparsely sprinkled with green, rise up forbidding our entrance, and -inside these is another amphitheatre of granite against which the town -of St. John's is built. The line of wharves forms a black foundation. -The haven where we would be lies peaceful and blue in the midst. The -first sight of St. John's and the last, always include the twin red -towers of the Roman Catholic Cathedral standing out on a platform above -the town. - -[Illustration: St. John's, Newfoundland.] - -Now we are passing immediately under the cliffs, with which we make -very near acquaintance as we go through the Narrows. To add to the -difficulties of this passage, there is a rock at the narrowest part -called the Great Chain Rock, where in olden times a chain was fastened -across the harbour to guard the entrance. Another and greater danger, -a sunken rock, lies hidden under the smooth water. A gun is fired from -the lofty signal station, to tell anxious hearts of the incoming mail, -and with a large part of the population of St. John's on the wharf (for -they always gather to greet and speed the fortnightly steamer) we land -in Newfoundland. - -On the kind invitation of Lady O'Brien and the Governor, we are driven -by Mr. Cecil Fane, his Excellency's aide-de-camp and able secretary, -to Government House. This is a handsome stone building, looking more -so amongst its surroundings of wooden houses, standing above the town -in its own grounds. The view from the house into the open country is -charming. In the far distance a range of purple mountains. Then patches -of dark pine forests, alternating with green, park-like spaces. The -Roman Catholic cemetery with its wooden crosses lying on a hillside. -Beneath it in a basin, the little blue lake of Quidi Vidi, which plays -such an important part in the social life of St. John's. Here they -yacht and boat, fish and bathe in summer. In winter they use it to -sleigh, skate, and toboggan on, but above all they hold their annual -regatta here. It is fixed for next week, and may be called the Epsom -of Newfoundland. The population from all parts of the Island gathers -to see it. In olden days each merchant chief had his yacht and crew of -employés, and partisanship ran high, but now the races belong to the -clubs in town, such as the Temperance, Athenæum, etc. - -In the afternoon the Hon. Augustus Harvey took us for a beautiful -drive of twenty-eight miles across the Island. Who, seeing that bare -rocky coast in the morning, would have believed that the interior of -the Island could be so lovely! We drove along a good macadamized road, -passing the pretty white wooden houses with red roofs and neat palings, -the country residences of the merchants. Here is the one belonging to -Mr. Baird of lobster fame. Each house has a flagstaff and floating -flag; indeed, St. John's is called the city of flags, for everyone who -is anybody possesses one, and flies it proudly when in residence. There -are great clumps of purple iris growing wild by the roadside. We pass -through many plantations of fir trees, junipers and larches. The great -feature of Newfoundland scenery is water. It is everywhere. Flowing in -rivulets, covered with reeds by the roadside, enclosed in hollows in -the hills as lakes, hurrying from the mountains as a gushing torrent, -protesting angrily in rapids and foam against the rocks in its course. -It is the great feature and the great charm, and one-third of the -Island is said to be water. In one drive you may count as many as two -dozen lakes. - -At times, as you look round, the country reminds you of Scotland, with -the purple blue mountains in the distance and the dark patches of fir -trees. At others there is a marshy and barren bit of bog land, with -cabins recalling the wilds of Connemara. Then some scene in the Tyrol -is brought before you; high mountains and deep valleys filled with -dense pine forests, a lake hidden in their midst. Frequently a chain -of mountains has a similar chain of lakes winding at its base. These -lakes are divided by a narrow isthmus of land, or connected by flowing -streams. They are full of fish of all descriptions. If England is the -paradise for horses, this is the paradise for fishermen. Other sport -can be obtained by the partridge-shooting in August and September. The -partridges resemble Scandinavian ptarmigan. There are also wild deer to -be had by stalking the mountains forty miles in the interior. - -We always think of Newfoundland as the land of fog, lobster, and cod, -and know it best in connection with the breed of Newfoundland dogs. -This race is degenerating and threatened with extinction, and there -are scarcely any good specimens of these beautiful and intelligent -dogs left in the island. But I think few have any idea what extremely -beautiful scenery there is, and when there is no fog, the atmosphere -is remarkable for extreme dryness and clearness, giving the most vivid -colouring and the sharpest delineations to the mountains. - -This was the case to-day; and as we drove to the Twenty Mile Lakes, so -called because they are twenty miles round, I thought I had rarely seen -brighter, prettier, or more varied landscape. The water of St. John's -comes from these lakes, and they claim to have the purest supply of any -town in the world. Instead of being bare and desolate, the country is -green and smiling. There are a few widely scattered farm-houses, but as -a whole not much cultivation is attempted. - -After a long ascent, we gain a glimpse of the sea. We have been -driving across a narrow mainland, from the ocean to the ocean, and -before us, gleaming softly in the evening sunlight, is the beautiful -Bay of Conception. The surrounding cliffs are quite purple, the ocean -is a golden sea broken up by green islands. Far below us is a cluster -of houses, a fishing settlement, with a lobster factory and some flakes -run out over the rocks. There are boats idly rocking at the quay, -whilst others are catching bait for a fishing schooner, lying at anchor -in the bay. They told us of one of the governors who was brought here -within sight of this bay to die. He thought it so beautiful. So did we. -Then we drove home quickly in the dusk, late for dinner, but charmed -with the island. We found Sir Terence and Lady O'Brien just arrived -from a few days' cruise by the "Out-ports" on the coast. They give us -wonderful descriptions of the grandeur of the scenery. The government -steam yacht, in which they journeyed, will start with the judges on -circuit in a few days. - -_Thursday, Aug. 6th._--We awoke to a lovely spring morning, with the -breeze whispering amongst the trees, and the Union Jack flapping gently -against the flagstaff in Government House garden. Spring has just -come. Asparagus and peas are coming up in the garden, strawberries are -ripening and the hay is ready to cut. We have gone back three months in -our season. The climate of Newfoundland is abominable. The winter is -interminably long and severe, lasting from the beginning of October to -May. There are incessant fogs, which envelop everything in a cold damp -pall. - -Nor is the island exempt from these fogs even during its short summer. -The climate is also subject to extreme and rapid changes, from heat to -cold, in a few hours. The summer has been unusually delayed this year, -and had we come three weeks earlier, we should have seen an iceberg in -the middle of the harbour. - -Newfoundland is about the size of Ireland, or one-third more. Its -population is some 200,000, but of this number 28,000 live at St. -John's, which is therefore the centre of all life, commercial, -political and social. The remainder of the population is chiefly -settled on the coast, in fishing villages called the "Out-ports", -whilst the interior of the island is sparsely settled, and in some -parts unexplored. The population is dwindling, and there is no -immigration, of which they are jealous, as reducing the means already -deficient of living, but there is emigration to Canada and the United -States. - -The people are of English, Scotch and Irish descent, but those from -England are chiefly from the west coast and Devonshire. The Premier, -Sir William Whiteway, is a Devonian. And a curious little fact -exemplifies this. If you ask for cream, it is always Devonshire clotted -cream that is brought. - -Newfoundland was the first of England's colonial possessions. -Sebastian Cabot discovered the island in 1497, and claimed it for -Henry VII. With the discovery of America, all nations came forward -to claim a share, but it was England and France who chiefly engaged -in the fisheries, which were then a source of great wealth. Sir -Gilbert Humphrey and Sir Walter Raleigh annexed the island for Queen -Elizabeth. Even at that time 100,000_l._ worth of fish were annually -exported. The ships left England in March, and returned in September, -and these voyages formed a nursery for English seamen. In 1635 the -French obtained permission from England to dry fish on the shores -of Newfoundland. This may be said to have laid the beginning of the -troubles which are now so active. The island was kept in a deserted -condition by the merchant adventurers up to 1729. They persuaded the -authorities at home that it was uninhabitable, in order that they might -retain the fishing rights in their own hands. Masters of vessels were -obliged to bring back to England each soul they embarked, under penalty -of 100_l._ When at length this tyranny gave way, a governor sent from -England, and the island colonized, the fishermen were still so poor -as to be in complete subjection to the merchants under the "supplying -system." This baneful "truck" practice begun so long ago, continues -in use unto this day, with equally evil results. The only support of -the fishermen (who form the bulk of the population) is fish. Upon the -result of the fishing season the year's comfort and prosperity depend. -But this, to be done on a profitable scale, requires a considerable -plant. There are only three classes in Newfoundland: the merchants, -the planters, and the fishermen. The last class are in durance to the -first, through the medium of the planter. The planter obtains from the -merchant the necessary outfit for the fishermen in clothes and goods, -and this is sold on credit. On his return from the fisheries (the -chief of which are off the Great Bank), he seizes the catch and repays -himself, and the merchant, who disposes of the fish. Thus the fishermen -are kept in a hopelessly poor and dependent position. - -Of course, since our arrival, we have heard every side of this -much-vexed Fishery Question. But at least we can now fully understand -the "life-and-death" importance of the question to the island, of the -curtailment of their fishery grounds by the French shore dispute. The -life of the codfish and lobster is the life of the Newfoundlanders, and -to lessen their catch of fish is to lower proportionately their already -low standard of living. The question of the French obtaining bait and -erecting lobster factories is discussed at every dinner table. Mr. -Baird, by defying Sir Baldwin Walker, is called the village Hampden. -They feel deeply the apparent want of sympathy of the Home Government, -and indeed it cannot be easy for Her Majesty's Ministers to understand -the vital interests involved in this dispute to the islanders without a -personal visit to St. John's. - -We should like to have visited the disputed fishing shore off the -islands of St. Pierre and Miquelon, but it lies 135 miles down the -coast, and the only means of communication is by a fishing schooner. - -We went sight-seeing in St. John's in the morning. Our first visit -was to the adjacent square stone building, the House of Assembly. It -is a miniature House of Commons, contained in a lofty room, with long -windows. There is the Speaker's chair, the table, the ministerial and -opposition benches, though the latter are only occupied by the eight -members in opposition, whilst the ministerial benches boast a cohort -of twenty-six, of whom all but two are said to be in receipt of an -official salary. There is also a Legislative Council, or Upper House; -and an Executive Council, or Cabinet, which meets weekly at Government -House. - -Sir William Whiteway, the Premier, returns by the next steamer from the -Delegation to England, but his colleagues are here, and we meet them -all. - -The Roman Catholic cathedral is the next most prominent building -at St. John's. Its situation on a plateau high above the town, and -facing the harbour, tells in its favour. Inside the railed-off square -there are four beautiful marble statues. The Cathedral is finely -proportioned inside, and over the high altar there is a fine bas-relief -representation of the Dying Christ. The more you travel, the more -struck you are with the activity of the Church of Rome in all parts -of the world, and particularly in the Colonies. We found it so in -Australia and New Zealand. In Eastern and Central Canada the finest -buildings in the cities are the Roman Catholic cathedrals. So it is -at Ottawa, at Montreal (where they are building one with a dome after -the model of St. Peter's), and at Halifax. Here it is the same. One -wonders whence the money comes, and whether it is true that the Roman -Catholics, with no State endowment, are more generous in the support -of their religion than us Protestants. We visited Bishop Power, for we -hold a circular autograph letter from Cardinal Manning (my husband's -godfather, now gone to his rest), written in Latin, and addressed to -all the Archbishops, Bishops and Clergy of the Roman hierarchy in all -parts of the globe. It ensures us a welcome from them everywhere. - -We then went to the English cathedral, which lies lower down in the -city, and is a fine Gothic structure designed by Sir Gilbert Scott, -but it presents a sorry contrast to the other, as there is a blank -where the tower should be, and, save for a few stained glass windows, -it is bare and undecorated. There is a heavy debt of 20,000_l._ on the -cathedral, to meet which several public-spirited gentlemen have banded -together and insured their lives in its favour. They feel that they -have made sufficient sacrifices, and that having built the fabric, it -must be left to their sons to decorate it. - -Then we descended to Water Street. It is the principal street, lying -parallel with the harbour, and a somewhat untidy and unsavoury avenue. -It is a real descent to reach it, for the other streets climb up -from it at right angles, and each one is a mountain to ascend. There -is one cab-stand here for the whole town. The vehicles on it are of -antiquated date, the seat for the driver dovetailing into a back -seat for a passenger. There are frequent stand pipes ready for the -fire brigade, who have stations with the horses standing ready under -suspended collars, and all the new improvements. The pressure of water -is so good that, with hoses attached, the jets will pass over the -cathedral. Thrice already destroyed by fire, St. John's now takes all -human precautions. There are several banks, a fine hotel, from without -at least, but which is said to defeat its exterior promise inside, -a general hospital, penitentiary, orphanages, sailors' homes, and a -technical and high school. The education of the island is in a far -advanced state, with compulsory and free education. The museum in the -post office contains specimens of the marble, coal and gypsum found in -the island. Newfoundland is rich in mineral wealth, and only requires -capital for its development. - -We had a heavenly afternoon for a tea picnic to Logy's Bay. Indeed -the beautiful drives and expeditions seem endless, and Logy's Bay is -only one of the many lovely coves and bays that indent the coast. We -dip over the hill and look down on an exquisite little picture, with a -blue bay surrounded by headlands of red and green cliffs, and the sea -shimmering beyond. Far away on the horizon there is a gleaming white -pillar. It is a floating iceberg. We wish, oh! so much, as we eat -strawberries under the cliffs, that it was nearer to us. - -Before we descended into Logy's Bay, we knew that it contained a -fishing settlement, by the pungent odours of highly flavoured fish -that ascended to us, and over the bay there are many extended flakes. -These flakes are formed by rough supports made of fir poles covered -with branches of fir-trees. Each codfish is split, salted and laid open -on these flakes. It takes six weeks of exposure to cure the fish, and -there is a good deal of labour involved. Each morning the cod must be -laid out on the flake. Each evening it must be gathered in, stacked and -covered with bark, to which stones are attached to keep it down. This -fish is then exported to Roman Catholic countries like Spain, Brazil, -Portugal, Austria and Italy, where it forms the staple of food for the -poorer population on fast days. It is worth about 2_d._ per lb. The -small boats that we see outside the bay, are busy collecting bait. -The bait they obtain to catch the cod are caplin, herring and squid, -according to the season. We have just missed seeing a lobster factory, -as they closed by law on August 5th. The factory, it appears, only -consists of an open shed and a stove. As the lobsters are only worth -here about three shillings per hundred, it seems that a large profit, -by exporting them fresh, might be made in England. - -In returning, we drove round Lake Quidi-Vidi and on reaching the top -of a hill looked down on a typical fishing settlement. The granite -rocks of the coast shut it into a narrow cove, through which courses a -stream that finds a narrow outlet to the ocean. The wooden houses are -huddled together, finding foundations on and against the rocks, whilst -the flakes are run out in all directions over the stream, and men and -women are hard at work splitting, salting and drying the last arrived -boat-load of fish. - -There was a dinner party at Government House in the evening, where we -met Lady Walker, wife of Sir Baldwin Walker, Mr. Bond, Mr. Harvey, and -other members of the Government, as well as Mr. Morine, the leader of -the opposition. The next day was Sunday, and we experienced a sudden -and disagreeable change of climate. It was bitterly cold, and we were -glad of fires. But we have not yet had a real Newfoundland fog. - -We are in great difficulty as to how to leave the island, and find -ourselves steamer-bound. That tardy line, the Allan, has a fortnightly -service _via_ Halifax to St. John's, but we shall be obliged to take a -cargo boat. - -_Monday, August 10th._--A mid night embarkation on the Black Diamond -Line s.s. _Coban_, from the deserted wharves of St. John's. The donkey -engine is at work all night, and in the cold grey of early dawn we -slipped out of the harbour. There ensued two days and nights of -abject misery, only relieved by the sight of land at seven o'clock on -Wednesday evening. We enter Glace Bay on the peninsula of Cape Breton. -The channel entrance is so narrow that we executed some wonderful -nautical manœuvres before anchoring at the wharf. We are landing on -a barren shore, the chief object of interest being a coal shoot with -some trucks of coal on it. We are near the great Sydney coal mines, and -the country is as bleak and desolate as our Black Country. The sun is -sinking, but the air is warm and moist. - -We land at this uninviting place, and after some searchings amongst -a half-dazed population, who seem to show surprise, mingled with -resentment at our intrusion, we find a ramshackle country buggy, in -which to drive fourteen miles to Sydney. We are told the track is -rough. The light is fast failing. There is only one narrow seat for -the somewhat bulky driver and ourselves. For a moment I cannot see -where I am to sit. But every second it is growing darker, and with -no alternative I scrambled up, and fortunately being small, I was -wedged in securely, and during the very rough drive was perhaps the -less shaken. The four-year-old pony sorely tried my nerves at starting -by shying, and turning sharp round--a fatal thing in these lockless -buggies. Our good driver--the local constable--negotiated the worst -places, the holes and rocks and frail wooden bridges, with great care, -and saved us all he could. Still, we suffered severely. - -We passed the two great coal mines of Sydney which supply all the coal -to Newfoundland, and much to Canada. It is soft and dirty fuel. We saw -the lights of the miners' cottages, and passed some of them returning -with an electric lamp in their caps. On and on we drove. The twilight -failed, and a pale crescent moon rose, but its dim light only added -half-seen terrors to the road, as we drove through dusky pine forests -and heard the rush of unseen waters, whilst the lamp of the luggage -cart in advance looked like a will-o'-the-wisp dancing up and down. -On and on for what seemed like hours. No dwelling-places in sight, no -human being seen, no sound heard, as we crossed in the darkness that -isthmus of land between Glace Bay and Sydney. - -After a weary while we at last saw the welcome lights of Sydney, and -drove into a sleeping village, only to be told that every room in -the place was full. At length a priest and a commercial traveller, -fellow-passengers from the steamer, found a room, which they gave up to -me. It was in a little public-house, but the bed-room was lighted by -electricity! - -We were up at 5 a.m., and in a torrent of rain drove to the station. -The Intercolonial Railway only opened this new line from Sydney across -Cape Breton eight months ago. It communicates with the magnificent -harbour of Sydney and the exceedingly beautiful Bras d'Or Lakes. We -travelled by the shores of several "guts," or inlets from the harbour. -Then opens out the broad expanse of the lake itself, surrounded by -mountains, along the foot of which we are creeping. The name Bras d'Or -has such a pretty origin. When the French, in exploring Cape Breton, -first saw the lake, it was autumn, and the shores were all golden in -their autumnal glory; hence they called it the Golden Arm. For miles we -are passing along its shores, which the waters are gently lapping under -a leaden sky, and the great mountains covered with fir forests, rise -gloomy and forbidding on the further shore, bathed in clouds and mists. -It is a beautiful, though depressing scene. The lake closes in, and its -banks nearly meet at the Narrows, which the train crosses on an iron -trestle bridge from one shore to the other. There is excellent fishing -in this lake, and now that the railway has opened it up, it is sure to -become known and largely visited. - -At the Straits of Canso, the contents of the train, including -passengers, are embarked on a ferry, and cross the narrow strip of sea -that divides Cape Breton from the mainland of Canada. We disembark in -Nova Scotia. - - - - -CHAPTER II. - -THE MARITIME PROVINCES, AND THROUGH LAKE AND FOREST TO THE QUEEN CITY. - - -A long railway journey. The light streaming into the berth of a sleeper -of the Intercolonial Railway awakes me, and a few minutes afterwards I -emerge from between the curtains, to see the morning sun on the dancing -waters of Bedford Basin, the land-locked harbour of Halifax. For about -ten miles we are skirting this harbour before running into the town. - -Most people would agree in thinking Halifax a charming place. There -is nothing in the primitive city, with its straight, narrow streets -of wooden houses, most of which require a new coat of paint, to make -it so. There are few public buildings worthy of notice. But the charm -lies in its position on the peninsula of land, with the deep bend in -the North-west Arm on one side, and Chebuctoo Bay on the other, leading -into Bedford Basin. Thus there is water on every side. - -Halifax has a large official society, and takes some pride in being -thought very English in its habits and ways. It owes this to being the -one military station left in Canada where there are British troops, and -also to its harbouring a naval station, with a resident Admiral and -three war-ships at anchor in the bay. The Lieut.-Governor also resides -here, and so Halifax[1] is full of official residences. Each province -in Canada has a lieut.-governor, who receives the appointment for five -years at the hands of the Governor-General, with a moderate salary and -an official residence. He is generally some prominent and popular local -man, who is thus rewarded for political services by the Premier of -the day, who advises the representative of the Crown, and practically -confers the post. Each province also has its local parliament, or -legislature, which is independent of the Dominion Parliament, and forms -its own laws of internal economy, constituting a body like our County -Councils. Thus, in Canadian capitals, their public buildings always -include the Parliament House, a Government House, and Ministerial -offices. - -In the afternoon Mr. Francklyn came and took us for a drive in the -beautiful park at Point Pleasant. We skirt along the blue bay, dotted -with white sails, for there is a regatta in progress, until we reach -the well-named Point Pleasant. This promontory is covered with a -magnificent pine forest, through which wind miles of splendid roads, -made by companies of the Royal Engineers when stationed here. - -On one side the park is bounded by a deep inlet of the sea, running a -long way inland, and which is called the North-west Arm. At a certain -point there is a sunlit vista looking up this narrow bay, which is very -beautiful. There are pleasant country-houses out here, in one of which -Mr. Francklyn resides. It is a perfect afternoon, with warm sunshine, -and a pleasant breeze whispering and sighing in the fir-trees. - -_Sunday, August 2nd._--In the morning I went to church at St. Paul's. -This is a very old wooden building with a spire. There are the same -timbers as were used for its construction in 1794, when the Hon. E. -Cornwallis landed in Chebuctoo Bay with 2000 settlers. He planned -this site for the church, and built it on the design sent out by the -Imperial Government, which was on the model of St. Peter's, Vere -Street. In 1787, when the first Bishop was appointed, he took it for -his cathedral. It has taken part in all the great functions connected -with the history of Halifax; and the walls are covered with mural -tablets to the memory of the generals and admirals who have died on the -station. - -We were told to go and see the public garden, which is very well laid -out with carpet beds and a miniature river. The gardener is a resident -of Halifax, and was sent home to England a short time ago, to model it -on our London parks. In the evening we attended the Presbyterian Church -to hear Principal Grant preach. He is the able, sympathetic and popular -Principal of the Kingston University. The Presbyterians have a strong -following, and fine churches throughout Canada, probably owing to the -large number of original Scotch settlers. - -From Halifax we should have gone to St. John, New Brunswick, by -Annapolis, through the beautiful country celebrated by Longfellow, and -called the Land of Evangeline, and across the Bay of Fundi, but there -was doubt as to the hour of arrival of the steamer to be in time for -a meeting of the United Empire Trade League. I must here digress a -minute to explain that it was no part of our original Canadian tour -to practically be "stumping" the country from Halifax to Vancouver on -the subject of Imperial Preferential Trade. The meetings were thrust -upon my husband, and, once begun, each city claimed its meeting in -due course. Albeit, I must confess that he fell in gladly with the -arrangement. I may fairly say that for over six weeks in Canada, I was -the victim of the United Empire Trade League. - -In our schoolroom days we learnt that St. John is the capital of New -Brunswick, and Halifax the capital of Nova Scotia. In the weariness of -a hot study and the drowsiness of a summer afternoon, we may vaguely -wonder of what use this, and much else that we learn, will ever be to -us. It is pleasant now to have knowledge triumphantly vindicated, and -geography by personal visits made easy. - -Lying on several peninsulas formed by the river of St. John, the -harbour, and the Bay of Fundi, the city is surrounded by water. You -cannot be many minutes in the town without hearing of the fire of 1877, -that great epoch in local history. Beginning in a blacksmith's shop, -it destroyed nine miles of streets and an entire portion of the town. -We were shown the one building that was left untouched in the midst of -the conflagration, and for what reason no one has ever been able to -ascertain. The town was rebuilt with red sandstone, granite and brick. -It looks so handsome and substantial when compared to the wooden cities -of Halifax and other Canadian towns. - -The Mayor (Mr. Peters), the President of the Board of Trade (Mr. -Robertson), met us at the station and drove us about the town, and -pointed out to us such public buildings as the Custom House, the -hospital, the asylum for the insane, etc. My experience goes to tell -that they are the same in all cities of the world. We passed rapidly -from the summit of one peninsula on to the next, looking down streets -that always seem to lead to water. There are pretty views from these -heights of the large city, containing 40,000 inhabitants, spread out -over these successions of hills, with the harbour dotted with sails -below. Far away into the country, the river is seen winding amongst -grey, overhanging cliffs and pine-clad mountains. They claim for it -scenery as fine as the Hudson. - -But the prettiest view of all is from the Cantilever Bridge. Here the -wide mouth of the St. John river flows through the harbour to the sea, -interrupted by rocky islands, clothed in green. They have a great -curiosity here in the shape of a reversible waterfall. The tide at the -mouth of the river rises and falls as much as forty feet. As the river -flows seawards it is forced by the volume of water coming down the -river over a ridge of rock, and forms a waterfall into the harbour at -low tide. When the tide turns, the salt water is forced backwards up -the river, and forms a waterfall the reverse way. - -St. John was founded by the United Loyalists. The other day there was -a touching incident of a brave boy who went out in a storm here and -saved the life of a child, perishing in the attempt. Subscriptions -poured in for the erection of a public monument. They proposed to -erect it on a spot we were shown, but in excavating they came upon the -well-preserved coffins of twenty of these United Loyalists. - -The city is the centre of a great lumber trade; 30,000 yards of timber -are cut on the banks of the river annually and floated down to St. -John's. They have free and undenominational education. The streets are -paved with blocks of cedar. Electric light is in general and domestic -use. Altogether, St. John is a most enlightened and advanced city. - -We got into the "cars" at night for a long journey of two days and two -nights to Toronto. - -Through the State of Maine we sped at night; one of the two American -total Prohibitionist States. Though saving 200 miles by this route, it -seems a pity that the C. P. R. could not keep their line in Canadian -territory, as, in the event of war with America, or one in which she -was a neutral ally, her connections could be severed. - -During this long journey of 1500 miles from Cape Breton, through the -Maritime Provinces, to the more cultivated and open country of Ontario, -the scenery has been beautiful but monotonous. - -There are two features which repeat themselves over and over again to -the eye, the ear and the senses: they are that Canada is a land of many -forests, and that Canada is a land of many waters. - -For many hundreds of miles we passed through the midst of these -enduring spruce forests, the narrow track whose path has been roughly -cleared by burning, extending with its thin thread of iron through -their densest growth, lost through their trackless depths. On either -side of the clearing though these, mighty forests, there is a belt of -blackened stumps of grey, armless stems, where the fire has passed over -them. Sometimes even there will be one green living tree left standing -among the dead. And these dull grey mutilated trees look quite pathetic -in their pale nakedness, leaning hither and thither, and finding -support across one another, as if falling in their last agony, or lying -dead and uprooted on the ground. They exercise quite a fascination as -they continue for mile after mile in their dying contortions, whilst -in the background there are their living brethren, so green, hardy and -dense in their growth. The ground beneath is strewn with blackened -snags that are partly covered with green moss and ferns, their fresh -growth mingling with these dark reminiscences of man's ruthless hands. -In sedgy places there are beds of waving bulrushes, and sometimes a few -wild flowers, such as the fox-glove, the mimosa, and the golden-rod. - -Hundreds of acres of these lumber forests are on every side, and -indeed, a large proportion of the Dominion is covered with these -mighty stretches of pine and spruce. There are other varieties such as -maple, birch and poplar, but the spruce fir is the chief growth, as -it covers all the land that is not cleared or occupied by water. We -see piles of ready-cut timber, stacked for transport, or cars laden -with it at every station. The rivers and lakes are full of floating -timber, and abandoned rafts. Frequently the whole surface of the river -will be blocked with lumber, which, carried by the current, arranges -itself transversely in floating down. This generally happens near a -town or village. For miles away up these deep valleys, there are men -busy lumbering all the summer. They cut down and strip the trees of -bark and then float the lumber down to the nearest place for export. -We constantly pass sawing mills where water power is used for the -machinery. The bark is only useful for "kindling" or firewood. Some of -the wood is crushed to pulp and used for the manufacture of paper. - -Occasionally in the middle of these forests the engine will startle -us with an unearthly whistle. It is a sign that we are approaching a -human habitation, and in a rough clearing we pass two or three wooden -huts, with a potato patch mingling with the black stumps, and women and -children at the door. One pities their solitary life, shut in by the -impenetrable forest, and wonders how they obtain supplies. Sometimes -there is a larger clearing with more attempts at farming, but where the -fields, though divided off, are still a mass of charred stumps. - -This work of clearing by the Eastern settler must be terribly -disheartening. There is, first of all, a dense undergrowth to be hewn -through and piled up ready for burning. This when dry kindles the -conflagration which is to help so materially in the task. After a spell -of dry weather and with the wind in the direction he wishes to clear, -it must be joy to the settler to see the flames leaping up and hungrily -devouring the trees. The fiercer and longer the fire lasts and the -cleaner it burns, the more pleased he is, and when it dies down he must -look sadly around at the trees still standing, knowing that now each -one must be cut down by his own labour. Then each blackened stump and -snag must be grubbed up singly. This is work done by the sweat of the -brow. It is tedious, laborious and apparently endless. Occasionally you -come across a beautifully cleaned piece of ground, which is pleasant -to look upon, but generally the land is roughly cleared, in fact you -wonder how the few cows and sheep find sufficient green sustenance -among such a black outlook of burnt stumps. The enormous waste of -valuable timber by this rough-and-ready method of clearing seems to us -reckless prodigality, but the settler surrounded by miles of similar -forests cannot see it in this light. - -The variety of rough wooden fences, with their ingenious inventions to -save labour and time, become a source of interest. The roughest kind -are formed of the roots of trees, turned on their sides, the roots -forming a thorny fence. It is picturesque, untidy, but practical for -its purpose, and is called a "snag" fence. Others are formed of timber -stakes of every description, some with barbed wire. This, however, is -too expensive to be largely used. But the prettiest of all are the -snake fences. Very easy of construction, they run along in graceful -zig-zags. - -The land cleared, and the ground fenced off, the building of the -house comes next. This is a land of lumber, and of course the house -is made of wood. They are simple and easy of construction, being of -one story with a door in the centre and a window on either side. The -door must be covered with wire netting, for the flies in the forest -amount to a pest. They are lined with planked wood inside and out, -and the roof is covered with shingles or flat strips of wood nailed -on like tiles. Between the outside and inside there is a lining of -paper tarred thickly over. This makes the house air-tight. In Canada -a large proportion of the dwelling-houses are built of wood. Montreal -and Toronto have streets of handsome stone houses, and in all Canadian -towns the public buildings and offices in the city are of stone -or brick. Still, wooden houses largely predominate throughout the -Dominion. It seems curious, but arctic as the winters are, these wooden -houses are more suited than stone to the climate. In the latter the -mortar absorbs and gives off damp in a thaw, whilst the wooden houses -are dry, air-tight and extremely comfortable. Most of the houses have -furnaces in the basement, which heats the warm air in the pipes of each -room, or at all events a stove in the hall. This and double windows are -a necessity in the winter. - -During this long journey, we are again impressed with the volume and -extent of the lakes and rivers. The country is absolutely fretted with -these fresh-water lakes, which are full of salmon and trout. Some are -very large, like Lake Megantic, which we pass, and which is twelve -miles long; or Moosehead, which is forty miles long and from one to -fifteen miles broad. Others are only like large ponds. Then there -are broad rivers, deep and strong; wide rivers, shallow and rapid, -and mountain torrents, brown and babbling. But it is always water -everywhere, still or running, silent or noisy, blue or green according -to its depth. If you read for a little while, or your attention is -turned away from the car window, on looking up again there is sure to -be more water in sight. - -We now re-visited Ottawa, Montreal, and Toronto in the interests of, -and for meetings of, the United Empire Trade League, after a lapse of -six years. At the capital kindly, enthusiastic, and hospitable was the -official and parliamentary welcome to my husband, but we heard much of -the "scandals," and of the loss to the country of Sir John Macdonald. -Of the former subject we weary, as of the extravagant language -which fills the papers, the following being a specimen of the daily -head-lines:-- - -"Boodle and Bungle." "The Slime of the Serpent is over Them All." "A -Story of Greed, Incompetence, Extravagance and Muddle." "Another Public -Works Scandal," etc. - -Montreal, with its natural attractions of the St. Lawrence and the -Mountain, is little changed. But Toronto has grown enormously, and is -now approached through some miles of suburbs. The Torontonians claim -that their "Queen City" has increased in the last few years more than -any other on this Continent, not excepting any in the United States. -They may well be proud of it. - -On Saturday, August 22nd, we left Toronto, and five hours in the cars -brought us to Owen Sound. This part of the line was laid by an English -engineer, who they say had never laid a railway before; it was taken -over by the C.P.R. and was incorporated into their great line. It is -not difficult to believe that this was the case, for the car narrowly -escapes derailment by the roughness of the road. - -Owen Sound is the point of departure for the C.P.R. steamers across the -lakes of Huron and Superior. I think it is a preferable route to the -railway, as it saves two days and two nights in the cars. The steamers -are very comfortable and well arranged. They are constructed to carry -a large cargo. On this voyage the cargo consists of agricultural -machinery going out west for the harvest, and soon it will be the grain -of the north-west which they will be carrying to the east. They have a -capacity for 40,000 bushels of grain, and they are constructed in such -a way that the grain can be shipped direct to and from the steamer by -the grain elevator. - -For several hours we steam through the Georgian Bay or southern -extremity of Lake Huron. It is a pretty inlet with forested banks, and -a great expanse of smooth blue water. It is difficult to realize the -vast area of space covered by these Canadian lakes. Lake Huron, which -we have been crossing all night, covers 28,000 square miles; Lake -Superior, which we are about to enter, has 30,000 square miles. Lakes -Erie, Winnipeg, Michigan, and Ontario, must be added to these miniature -oceans. And we are not surprised to find, that Canada claims to have -one quarter of the whole of the fresh water of the globe on her surface. - -The next morning the banks of Lake Huron are drawing closer together, -leaving us a narrow channel staked out in the centre. We are passing a -regular procession of barges. There are as many as three being towed in -line, and as the passage is narrow and devious, we could shake hands in -passing. Also, as we salute each one, and are saluted, with a threefold -whistle, the noise is continuous and wearing. These barges are laden -chiefly with lumber, but some have coal, grain, and ore. - -We enter the narrow mouth of the Sault Ste. Marie River, commonly -called by the Americans the "Soo." This river is the outlet between the -waters of Lake Huron and Lake Superior. There is a fall of forty-two -feet. It is a broad and muddy river, and on the right hand we have -American soil, and on the left Canadian. Perched on the bridge in -the crisp morning air, the views are very pretty. The mountains, as -always, are covered with the dark blue-green of the familiar pines. The -banks are clothed in brilliant green, just mellowing into yellow under -autumn's golden hand. We are shown a quarry of valuable variegated -marble in the mountain side, which is proving inexhaustible. Then we -pass the wreck of the _Pontiac_. She was run down by her sister ship -four weeks ago, and lies helplessly across the course, her bows stove -in, and the bridge and hurricane deck only above water. They are -pumping her out, gallons of water pouring from her rent side. - -Ten miles of this ascent of the river, and bending round a corner, -we come in sight of Sault Ste. Marie. Like so many other places, the -town has been created by the developing energy of the C.P.R., whose -cantilever railway bridge we see crossing the river, but it is typical -of the energy and "go" of the Americans, that on their side of the -river there is a town, whilst on the Canadian it is only a village. At -Sault Ste. Marie there are some pretty rapids which you can shoot in a -canoe. Communication between the two great waterways of Lakes Superior -and Huron is by a lock, where the water rises and falls sixteen feet. -The lock is on the American side, but the Canadians are making a deeper -one of twenty-two feet. This Soo Canal is of the greatest commercial -importance. Sixty vessels, in the summer season, pass through it daily, -or more, they allege, than through the Suez Canal. - -There was a long procession of steamers and barges waiting on either -side for their turn. It is so shallow that little way can be allowed -to the ships in passing in and out, and for two hours and a half we -sat and were quite amused watching the skill which packed three large -steam barges into this narrow canal. It must not be thought that these -steam barges are like our dirty barges on the Thames or on English -canals. They have a tonnage of 1500 or 2000 tons, and are as smart as -white paint and polished brass can make them, being lighted, too, by -electricity. - -These great lakes have a complete through connection to the ocean by -means of rivers, locks, and canals. Recently the whale-back boat was -taken from Chicago by this route to the Atlantic and across to London. -But as the commerce from the West increases, the canals will require -widening and deepening. This through waterway will have an important -bearing on the commercial development of Canada. Its drawback is that -from November until April the lakes are frozen. We, who travel through -Canada in the summer, forget what a different aspect the country -assumes, when for six months of the year it is frost and snow bound. - -A few hours after passing the Soo Canal, we had left the flat banks -behind us, and passed out on to the ocean-like waters of Lake Superior, -across which we steamed for ten hours. - -At eight o'clock there is the great purple promontory of Cape Thunder -in sight. It is a bold outline against the pale morning sky, clear, -with a keen north wind. It shelters inside the circular bay of Thunder, -with Port Arthur at its head. We pass Silver Island, where thousands of -dollars' worth of silver have been raised and sunk again. - -After the mine had been opened, the sea broke in, and a crib had to -be constructed. The silver is there, but the difficulties in raising -it seem insuperable. The whole of Cape Thunder is formed of mineral -deposits. - -We land at Port Arthur. It is a sad place. The C.P.R. has ruined the -rising town by choosing Fort William, five miles further up the river, -for its lake port. The once thriving place is deserted, the shops -closing, the large hotel empty. Such is the power of a great monopoly; -it creates and destroys by a stroke of the pen. - -Before leaving the _Alberta_ at Fort William, the time is put back an -hour. It recedes as we travel westward, and advances for east-bound -travellers. The time of the Dominion is taken from Montreal, and is -numbered, for convenience and business purposes, consecutively, that is -to say, they have no a.m. or p.m. to confuse their train-service, and -their watches have the double numbers, and one p.m. becomes thirteen, -and two p.m. fourteen, and so on. A proposition has just been made in -the Dominion Parliament to equalize the time, but it will not pass, at -all events, this session. - -Fort William was one of the advanced posts of the Hudson Bay Company. -It is now a swamp laid out in streets at right angles, with wooden -houses, overshadowed by some enormous grain elevators. Doubtless it -has a great future before it. We wait here five long hours for the -west-bound train. - -FOOTNOTE: - -[Footnote 1: Licence has been taken somewhat to alter the route -actually travelled in the Maritime Provinces, so as to fit it in better -as a continuation of my previous book, "Forty Thousand Miles over Land -and Water."] - - - - -CHAPTER III. - -BY THE GOLDEN WAVE TO THE FAR WEST. - - -Our journey to the Far West, through golden wheat, began at Fort -William; from there the Canadian Pacific takes us across to the ocean. - -The C.P.R., with its 2990 miles of railway, is the iron girdle that -binds Canada together from the Atlantic to the Pacific Oceans. She -gives cohesion to this conglomerate whole, with its varieties of -climate and production. Every mile of the line is worth a mile of gold -to the country, for at every place where she lays down a station, that -place becomes a town, a centre of population, civilization, and wealth -to the surrounding district. This railway has been the great explorer, -the great colonizer, the great wealth producer of Canada. It is the -artery of the body of the Dominion. - -One has constantly to remember that six or seven years ago all this -country through which we are passing was an unexplored wilderness. A -little band of plate-layers, headed by a surveyor, true pioneers, must -have forced their way through, hewing trees, blasting rock, and making -the silent woods resound with the voice of civilization, occasionally -coming across the track of some Indian encampment or the marks of a -bear. It must have required great forethought and organization from -headquarters to have the plant and stores ready to push on day by day, -whilst the railway in rear acted as the pioneers' single communication -with the outside world, as they plunged deeper and deeper into the -forests. The average speed of construction was about five miles a day, -and the greatest length laid in one day was twelve and a half miles. -The portion of line between Port Arthur and Fort William was the most -difficult to devise. Indeed, several times the engineers despaired. The -railway is divided into divisional sections, with a superintendent at -each. These again are divided into sections, with a surveyor in charge; -and we frequently pass their lonely section houses. Every portion of -the line is inspected once a day, the workmen using a trolly, which can -be lifted on and off the track. It is a single line, and there is only -one passenger train daily east and west. - -The trains are very long and heavy, often consisting of eight or nine -cars some eighty feet in length, weighing as much as fifty tons each. -They would jump the track if lighter. Our train to-day was of this -length, and carried a human freight of 286 persons, exclusive of the -numerous officials. The sleepers or sleeping-cars are most elegant, -with their polished pine wood inlaid with mother-of-pearl, and their -pale sea-green brocade hangings. - -The colonist cars on these trains are excellent, and always, we -noticed, well filled. They have berths like the sleeper, only with no -upholstery, but the colonist can buy a mattress and pillow at Montreal -for a dollar or two. They have a stove where they can cook their own -provisions, and on landing from the ocean steamers they get into this -car, live in it, and come as far west as they want to without change or -stoppage. - -From Fort William we passed through a wild, rocky country, following -the line of the Kaministiquia, a shallow river scrambling over a rocky -course. There are a few of these soft liquid Indian names, embodying -some symbolical or romantic ideal, still left; but they are fast dying -out, and the practical settler is changing them to a more prosaic but -pronounceable nomenclature. - -It was through this lonely district, then, unexplored by white man, -that for ninety-five days Wolseley, in 1870, led his troops against -the Indians. They marched 1000 miles from Fort William to Fort Garry, -utilizing the waterway of the lakes and rivers where possible. At -Savanne we see two of his flat-bottomed boats, lying rotting in the -stream near an Indian village. - -We have dinner in the private car of Mr. Howland and Mr. Wilkie, the -chairman and general manager of the Imperial Bank of Toronto. Seated -at the end of the train, we watch the twin lines of railway uncoiling -themselves in a straight line for mile after mile. An occasional -section-house, a station, which is often only a wooden shed on a -platform, a board with the number of the section on it, and, at long -intervals, a huge red tank for watering the engine, is all we see. -Night closes in on this lonely country, and we sleep in our berths, -while the engine steams and pants along into the darkness, hour after -hour through the long, long night. - -In the cold early morning we reach Rat Portage, passing from the state -of Ontario into Manitoba. Rat Portage is a wooden village of 1400 -inhabitants (this is considered quite a goodly population for this -sparsely-peopled country); and has the largest flour mill in Canada. It -lies at the outlet of the beautiful Lake of the Woods, which is forty -miles long and studded with islands. - -A brake has broken and the train is divided, the first half taking on -the dining-car. Hungry and impatient, the passengers wait for another -to be attached, and stand on the carriage platform ready to rush on -board. But, as it passes, a howl of disappointed hunger goes up, for -some knowing ones have jumped off the cars, and filled it before it -leaves the siding. - -We are still travelling through the same rock-bound country, ungainly -masses of rock protruding through a scrub growth of dwarf trees. We -continually pass beautiful lakes, placid sheets of water hidden away -in hollows. This is succeeded by a run through some "muskeg" or black -peaty bog land, where flourish rank grasses against a background of -bushy poplar trees. - -Thirty or forty miles from Winnipeg the country opens out and gradually -assumes a prairie character. The land is quite flat now, covered with -coarse yellow grasses, and sprinkled with wild flowers. It is a rich -feast of colours. There are great patches of gorgeous wild sunflowers, -masses of purple and white michaelmas daisies, growing more plenteously -here on the open prairie, than when cultivated in our cottage gardens -at home; there are bluebells and lupins, blue, pink, and white, marsh -mallows, cyclamen, and acres of that weed-like growth, the golden -rod. Isolated houses, becoming more frequent, tell us we are nearing -Winnipeg. We cross the Red river and are in the station. - -Winnipeg is the old Fort Garry settlement of the Hudson Bay Company. -Twenty years ago, or in 1871, population was 100, now, in 1891, it is -30,000. - -The town is set down in the midst of the prairie. Main street -follows the winding of the old Indian trail which takes in the deep -bend of the Red river. The City Hall in this street, or "on" as the -Canadians would say, is a very handsome new-looking structure. It -front of it stands the column erected to the memory of the soldiers -who fell in the North-West rebellion of 1870. It is surmounted by a -volunteer on guard, wrapped in his fur coat, and with his fur cap on -his head. The streets are paved with blocks of wood, but the foot -pavements are still boarded; indeed Winnipeg is a strange mixture, -with Eastern civilization meeting in this border city, the Western or -rough-and-ready methods of the settler. It is only interesting on this -account. - -In the streets there are bullock carts bringing in cradles of hay from -the prairie; sulkies, which are constructed of two wheels and a tiny -board for a driver's seat; and buckboards, used for purposes of all -kinds. Nor must I forget the little carts with their tandems of dogs. -These are a mongrel breed, and are much used, especially in winter, -when they are driven four, six, or a dozen in hand in sleighs. As we -get further west, the breed of horses improves. There are country -yokels with burnt faces, coarse straw hat, and flannel shirt, gazing -open-mouthed at the store windows, for Winnipeg is to them what London -is to our country lads. Here is a family party of Indians emerging from -a shop with numerous parcels, to the evident joy of the squaw. But what -strikes you so much is, that you may pass from this handsome street of -fine stores, straight out on to the broad expanse of prairie. - -On the block of Government land stands the fine group of stone -buildings of the Parliament House, together with the Ministerial -offices for the Province of Manitoba, the Governor's residence, and the -wooden barracks enclosed in a square. We stayed at the Clarendon Hotel, -whose days are I fear numbered, as the Northern Pacific Company are -just completing a magnificent red sandstone hostelry. It is shown as -one of the sights of Winnipeg. - -Mrs. Adams, wife of an old Royal Welsh brother-officer of my -husband's, kindly took me for a drive in the afternoon. On the -outskirts of the town the Assiniboine river takes a deep bend, in -which there is some woodland. Trees are scarce on the prairie, and -what there are--poplar, oak and maple--are all stunted in their growth -from exposure to the north-west blast, which sweeps in winter across -the great waste, a piercing, biting wind blowing from over acres and -acres of snow. In this green belt there are many handsome houses, built -in an ambitious style of architecture, with towers and porticoes and -balustrades. They were chiefly constructed during the great "boom" of -nine years ago, a disastrous event that has left its mark. The town -still suffers from the troubles which quickly followed. Families are -yet living under the cloud of the financial bankruptcy which then -overtook them. - -In 1872, Winnipeg, with a sudden awakening, realized the immense future -before her as the capital of the Far West. Land was quickly bought up. -Large prices given and realized. Houses were built on a magnificent -scale. Crowds flocked in from all parts of Canada to share in the -coming prosperity, A complete collapse followed. The bubble had burst. - -The meaning of a "boom" may be thus simply exemplified. A buys a piece -of land from B, and pays half the price down as a first instalment. He -sells to C at an increased price, who, in his turn, does ditto to D. At -length B, the original seller, calls for payment. C and D are unable to -meet the call, and are ruined in endeavouring to do so, and the land is -thrown back on A, who is in the same position, and B has it thrown on -his hands, and never having in the first place received full payment, -is also ruined, for he has speculated with the money. All classes had -taken part in this "wild land speculation," and all were involved in -the collapse. Houses were closed (for they could not be sold, as there -were no purchasers) or are only, as we now see them, partially lived -in. Winnipeg is slowly recovering from this "boom," and with the youth -and energy of a young city will renew her prosperity. - -Passing the ruined gateway of the old Fort Garry, we appropriately come -to the Hudson Bay Store. It is contained in a large block of buildings, -and is a new departure in the trade once absorbed by that great and -powerful fur-trading company. They first explored the country, owned -it, and kept up friendly relations with the Indians. It was one of -those great trading monopolies, owned by merchants, and which have done -so much for the wealth and commerce of England. The Hudson Bay Company -has accomplished in a minor degree for Canada, what the East India -Company did for India. This shop may truly be called the Army and Navy -stores of the West, for it contains everything from brocades and Paris -mantles (which are bought by the squaws) furs, carpets, groceries, to -Indian blankets, pipes and bead work. In this bead work the blending of -colours is exquisite. At the last Louis Riel rebellion, the wholesale -department outfitted and provisioned at twenty-four hours' notice, 600 -soldiers for thirty days. - -We then visited the tennis club. I am impressed with the immense -utility of this popular game, which, if useful in England, performs -a large social duty in all Canadian towns. It forms a mild daily -excitement, and a meeting place for all, and is especially useful -in a country where, with the impossibility of obtaining servants, -entertaining is a difficult matter. - -Canon O'Meara took us one morning to the outskirts of the city to see -the cathedral. Lying out in the country and built of wood, it resembles -a simple village church. The surrounding cemetery is full of handsome -monuments, and here lie many victims of the boom. The most interesting -monument is the granite sarcophagus, engraved with seven names, -surrounded by laurel wreaths of the victims of the last rebellion. -Their remains were brought back here to be buried, with an impressive -public funeral. - -We visited the Bishop of Rupert's Land in his adjoining house. He is -Metropolitan of eight bishoprics, and has an enormous diocese reaching -into the unexplored regions of the Mackenzie River. He has organized -a college on the model of an English University, and which confers -degrees. - -Studying the working of the Church in Canada, one recognizes some -arguments in favour of Disestablishment. In Canada there is no State -endowment, and the clergy are supported by voluntary contributions. -This money comes partly from pew rents, and is greatly assisted by -the envelope system. By this method the parishioner covenants to give -a certain sum a year for the maintenance of his church, by fixed -weekly Sunday instalments. He is furnished with fifty-two envelopes, -on which his name is printed, and these contributions are entered in -a book. There appears to be no difficulty in raising funds by these -means, particularly if the clergyman is popular. If he is unpopular, -or his doctrines unacceptable or extreme, he suffers by the falling -off of his income. This system, moreover, has the advantage of giving -every man an interest in his church. A clergyman observed that several -members of his congregation appeared at church for the first time on -the establishment of this envelope system. "Oh, yes," they said, in -response to his remark, "we have got some stock in this concern now." - -It works particularly smoothly where the bishop, adapting himself to -the needs of a new country, admits the principle that those who pay -must choose. They require, however, a Clergy Discipline Act as much as -we do. - -Mr. Robinson took us in the afternoon for a drive across the prairie -to Sir Donald Smith's model farm at Silver Heights, where there are -three splendid specimens of the now extinct buffalo, some of the few -left of those vast herds that used to roam the prairie. The farm takes -its name from the adjoining wood of silver poplar trees. - -C. visited the venerable French Archbishop Taché. He told him that he -came out forty-six years ago, and that it took him then sixty-two days -to travel from Montreal, what he can now perform in sixty-two hours. He -showed the inkstand from which his uncle, the Premier of Quebec, Sir -Etienne Taché, signed the Confederation Act of Canada. - -_Thursday, August 27th._--Before leaving Winnipeg Major Heward gave us -an early inspection at the barracks of the Mounted Infantry. They are -smart and well-mounted on brancho horses, reared in the west. We also -inspected the chief of the three fire stations. They have a chemical -steamer. In this the water is mixed with carbolic acid gas. Fire being -supported by oxygen, the carbolic gas, when thrown on it, extinguishes -the supply of oxygen, and with it the fire. The fire bell, in sounding, -throws open the stable door and the horses trot out by themselves and -place their necks under the suspended collar, which descends and is -fastened by a patent bolt. - -The west-bound trains all stop at Winnipeg for five hours to allow -time for the colonists to visit the Railway and Dominion Land Offices, -and to obtain information respecting selections of lands. The land in -the North-West Provinces has now been surveyed and allotted thus for -twenty-four miles each side of the line. In a township of thirty-six -sections of 640 acres, or one square mile to each section, the Dominion -retains roughly one half, whilst the C.P.R. retains the other. There -are two sections reserved for school purposes, that the value of the -land may make the schools free and self-supporting, two sections -for the Hudson Bay Company, and the Canada North-West Land Company -have bought others. The diagram on page 53 will show the division of -sections. - -The station was crowded with large parties of emigrants, as many -settlers leave their families here, whilst choosing their sections -further west. There are bundles of bedding, tin cooking utensils, with -bird cages and babies in promiscuous heaps. - -As we pass out of the station we see the enormous plant and rolling -stock of the C.P.R., which has here its half-way depot between Montreal -and Vancouver. They have twenty miles of sidings, which are now full of -plant waiting to be pressed forward, to bring down the harvest to the -coast. - -[Illustration: TOWNSHIP DIAGRAM. - -The above diagram shows the manner in which the country is surveyed. -It represents a township--that is, a tract of land six miles square, -containing 36 sections of one mile square each. These sections are -subdivided into quarter sections of 160 acres each.] - -We are out on the prairie at once, on that great billowy sea of brown -and yellow grass; monotonous it is, and yet pleasing in its quiet, -rich, monotones of colour. The virgin soil is of rich black loam. The -belt of unsettled land round Winnipeg is caused by the land being held -by speculators, but after that we pass many pleasant farms, clustering -more thickly around Portage le Prairie, a rising town. We pass a -freight train entirely composed of refrigerator cars, containing that -bright pink salmon from British Columbia, which is a luxury in the east -and a drug in the west. The engine bears a trophy of a sheaf of corn, -to show that the harvest in the west has already begun. - -Out of the whole year we could not have chosen a more favourable moment -for visiting the North-West, as the harvest is in full swing. We are -at this moment passing through a sea of golden grain, acre after acre -extending in an unbroken line to the horizon. Indeed we are told that -these wheat fields form a continuous belt some forty miles deep on -either side of the railway. - -It would be difficult for anyone living even in the east of Canada, -to realize the enormous interest shown in the crops and weather out -here. For months and weeks beforehand it forms a general topic of -conversation, but, as August closes in, it becomes the one and all -absorbing concern. The newspapers are scanned for the daily weather -reports. Warnings are telegraphed broadcast through the land. As -Professor Goldwin Smith says, in his book "Canada and the Canadian -Question," "Just before the harvest the weather is no commonplace -topic, and a deep anxiety broods over the land." - -The interests at stake are enormous, involving as they do the question -to many of prosperity or ruin. One cold night, or one touch of frost -may destroy the labour of a year. This year the promise is exceptional, -and the prospect was bright until a week ago. Then there were ominous -whispers of frost. These early and late frosts are the scourge of the -farmer, and the lateness of the harvest, owing to an exceptionally -cold summer, increases the anxiety. Day by day, hour by hour, the -temperature is discussed with earnestness, increasing with intensity as -evening approaches. The other night there were people in Winnipeg going -up and down Main Street all night and striking matches to look at the -thermometer placed there. The interest to all was so vital that they -could not rest. There are warnings published in bulletins to farmers, -to light smudge fires to keep the frost from the wheat. These fires of -stubble, lighted to the north or north-west of the fields, by raising -the temperature two or three degrees, keep off the frost, and the dread -of smutted wheat. We see these smudge fires smouldering as we pass -along. - -The virgin soil will yield as much as forty to fifty bushels of wheat -an acre, and from fifty to sixty of oats. Manures are unknown and -unwanted by these western farmers. The land has only to be "scratched -with a plough," and the field will often yield a rich harvest of 500 -acres of wheat. The hum of the harvest is heard in all the land, and -we see for miles the golden grain waiting to be gathered, and the -"reapers and binders" hard at work. This machine is an ingenious -American invention, which cuts and binds at the same time. There is a -string inside which is given a twist, a knife comes down and cuts the -strings and throws out the sheaf. It is pretty to watch the rhythmical -precision with which sheaf after sheaf, thus cut and tied, is thrown -out on the track of the machine. The sheaves are then piled into -generous stacks and left for a fortnight to dry. Labour is at a premium -throughout Canada, and machinery, chiefly of American manufacture, is -more largely used than in England. Sometimes two chums will farm 200 -acres alone. Nearly all this grain we see is the far-famed Manitoba No. -1 hard. It is the finest wheat in the world. - -We are now approaching Brandon, which is a great wheat centre. This -town has the largest grain market in Manitoba, as is shown by five -elevators. "It is the distributing centre for an extensive and well -settled country." We should have stayed here, but were deterred by -accounts of the hotel accommodation. Then came the pleasure of an -orange sunset, gilding the grain into more golden glory. We passed the -celebrated Bell Farm at night where the furrows are usually four miles -long, and the work is done by military organization, "ploughing by -brigades, and reaping by divisions." - -At five o'clock we are left cold and shivering in the just broken -dawn on the prairie side at Regina. We look wistfully after the -disappearing train, with the warm berths inside the car. Deceived by -the high-sounding designation of Capital of the North-West Provinces, -we had broken our journey at Regina. There is a frontage to the line -of some wooden houses and stores, which extends but a little way back, -for the population of Regina is only as yet 2000. The prairie extends -to the sky line on every side. It is a dreary prospect, and we are -mutually depressed. - -There being nothing else to do, I retire to bed for some hours--the -Sheffield-born landlady giving us a true Sheffield welcome. - -At one o'clock matters seem brighter, for Colonel Herchmer, commanding -the Mounted Police of the North-West Territory, has kindly sent a team -for us to drive two miles out across the prairie to the barracks. From -the distance, the dark red buildings look quite a town, surmounted by -the tower of the riding school. This force is organized on military -lines, and consists of 1000 men, who maintain order over the Indian -Reservations, and an area of 800 miles. Their uniform of scarlet -patrol-jacket and black forage cap, with long riding-boots is extremely -smart. You meet them in all parts of the North-West Provinces. - -After lunching with Mrs. Herchmer, we inspected the officers' and -men's mess rooms, the canteen, store room, kitchens and forge, the -reading-room, bowling alley and theatre, and the guard room, where we -were shown the cell in which Louis Riel was kept after his capture. The -force is under strict military discipline. They have a football and -cricket team, and a musical ride equal to that of the Life Guards. - -The horses are all "bronchos," or prairie horses, bred chiefly from -Indian ponies. They cost 100 dols. to 120 dols. each, and are short -and wiry. They need to be strong, for the men must be five feet eight -inches in height, and measure thirty-five inches round the chest, while -the Californian saddles they use are very heavy. These saddles are -after the model of the Spanish South American ones, with a high pommel -in front and a triangular wooden stirrup. The horses are guaranteed -to go forty miles a day. There are many gentlemen in the ranks of the -force, some of whom have failed in ranching and other walks of life. -The wild roving life on the out-stations may be pleasant, but there is -no promotion from the ranks. - -A drive of two miles further out on to the prairie brought us to -one of the Dominion Schools, kept for the children of the Indian -Reservations. Mr. Hayter Reed, the Government Inspector, who showed us -over the school, told us that they do not force the parents to give up -the children, but persuade them. It is uphill work at first, civilizing -and teaching English to the little brown, bright-eyed children, with -lank black hair, whom we saw in the schoolrooms. The bath and the -wearing of boots is a severe trial to these gipsy children at first. - -The Government acknowledges in the building of these schools its -responsibility towards the natives. They made treaties with the -Indians, giving them rations, and setting apart certain lands or -Reservations for them, such as the Black Foot and the Sarcee. The -Americans did the same with their Indians, but did not keep their -treaties as we have done. However, like all other "indigenes," they -are dying out with the advance of the white man's civilization. We -drove home past Government House, and in the evening M. Royat, the -Lieut.-Governor, presided over an enthusiastic meeting of the United -Empire Trade League. - -Since very early morning, and all through this interminably long hot -day, we have been crossing the great desert prairie. Hour after hour -has dragged wearily on, and still we look out from the car on to the -symmetrical lines of the rolling plains. - -For over 400 miles, from Regina to Medicine Hat, this vast steppe -extends. There is no green thing on it--not a tree, or bush, or -shrub--but it is covered with coarse grass, burnt to a sere yellow. -The prairie is trackless as a desert; lonely as the ocean; vast -and colourless as a summer sky. And yet the prairie pleases, its -loneliness fascinates, its very monotony charms, the deep stillness -soothes, the tints are so pale and quiet. There is the faded yellow -of the grass, and the faint blue of the sky meeting on the horizon in -that never-ending undulating line, unbroken and uninterrupted. The -atmosphere is so clear that the blades of grass stand out alone, and a -distant sage bush is intensely blue. Occasionally the haze makes the -mirage of an ocean on the sky line. The only variety to this unvarying -scene are the great saline lakes we frequently pass. A blue haze hangs -over them, caused by the active evaporation, and now and again we see -a shining patch of pure white crystal, which is the crust of salt left -from an exhausted lake. At other times these dry basins are carpeted -with a rich red and purple weed, that forms an oasis in the wilderness -of burnt-out hues. - -We see many buffalo trails, for though these animals have been extinct -for some years, their prancings beat the trail so hard, that they are -still in existence. As many as 160,000 were killed yearly, and with -them disappeared the chief sustenance of the Indians. The prairie is -strewn with their bleached skulls and carcasses. By the side of the -stations there are stacks of their gigantic bones, artistically built -up with the skulls facing outwards. Gophers start up and skurry away at -the noise of the train. They correspond to the prairie dog of America, -but are smaller and about the size of a rabbit. - -We are impressed with the comparative fertility of the Canadian -prairie, when contrasted with the similar belt of saline desert in -America, for barren as this looks, parts of it are good for cattle -ranching. We do, later in the day, occasionally pass a few settlers' -dwellings, and presently the first of the Canadian Agricultural -Company's farms. There are ten of these farms, consisting of 10,000 -acres each, and situated at intervals of thirty miles between this and -Calgary. We see on them frequent "fire breaks," or a ploughed acre left -bare to prevent a fire from spreading in the crops. There are men, too, -stationed along the line firing the grass, so that a spark dropped from -the engine should not, by blazing this grass, spread to the ripening -corn. - -We inquire what is the use of the mounds by the tracks, and are told -these are snow brakes. In this flat country the smallest rise is -sufficient to make a drift, against which the snow piles to a great -height. - -We pass Moosejaw. The name is an abridgment of the Indian one, which -literally means, "The-creek-where-the-white-man-mended-the-cart -with-a-moose-jaw-bone." At Maple Creek there are large stock yards, -where the cattle are brought down from far distant ranches, and even -from over the American border at Montana, and put on the train to -Montreal and exported to England. - -The car had been up to 95°, but the intense heat was beginning to -subside. With the refreshing coolness and the sun declining, we are -also gladdened by the sight of a gradually rising slope on the dead -level of the plain. It is the beginning of the Cypress range. Then we -see a bush, some trees, some prairie flowers, and soon we are dropping -down into the comparatively fruitful valley of the South Saskatchawan, -and, crossing its broad river, we reach Medicine Hat. - -It is delightful after the stifling atmosphere of the cars to get -out and stroll in the station garden, which is full of old-fashioned -English flowers, stocks, geraniums, verbenas, floxes, and mignonette. -There are a picturesque party of Indians with their squaws and papooses -on the platform. We have seen some at all the stations selling polished -buffalo horns, mocassins and bead work; but try and "kodak" them as we -often did--and the instant they saw the small black box, the men turned -away and the women put their shawls over their heads. - -On leaving Medicine Hat, we ascended the valley above the river and -passed on to a more fertile prairie. There was just here a great -meeting-place for the buffaloes, and the ground is full of their -"wallows" or hollows made by the weight of their unwieldly bodies. Alas, -that the law against their slaughter came four years after they had all -been wantonly killed! - -We reach Calgary at the atrocious hour of two a.m., and turn out of a -warm berth into a cold bed at the hotel. - -_Sunday, August 30th._--We attended morning service at the pretty -little wooden church, the Bishop of Saskatchawan officiating. - -Calgary is the capital of Alberta and is in the centre of a great -ranche country. Like all these towns out west it is an unfinished -conglomeration of houses, laid out in imaginary streets at right -angles, in which there are few houses and more gaps. The whole is -held together by a principal street, in which there are two or three -pretentious new stone buildings. From here the houses straggle away -into the country, the unoccupied lots being joined to them by a boarded -foot-path. These towns have no depth, they are all surface and length. -Laid down on the prairie there are no trees near them and they have a -bare unfinished ugliness, peculiar to their new growth. - -You are reminded at every turn of the reason for Calgary's existence, -for its shops indicate the ranchers' wants. There are many saddlers, -displaying Californian saddles, stock whips and lassoos; others have -camp bedding and furniture; canned goods, that stand-by of the rancher, -are evidently in great demand. The dry-goods stores are full of flannel -shirts, slouching broad-brimmed hats and "chaps," or the cowboy's -leather leggings reaching to the thigh. Nearly everyone you meet is -English, there are few born Canadians. - -The streets are full of cowboys riding their long-tailed, half-groomed -bronchos at a hand gallop, or of sulkies with the unmistakable rancher, -with shirt open at the throat, slouch hat, and tanned face. The chief -subject of conversation is the dimensions of the ranches, the number of -head of cattle and horses on each. - -In the afternoon a Police team came with Mrs. McIllree, to drive us out -to see one of these ranches. Out here anything from a single horse to a -four-in-hand is called a "team," but this was one in our sense of the -term. - -We galloped across a trail on the prairie, and then wound through a -"coolie," as they call the little valleys lying in between the rolling -hills, and which are so frequent in this country. There are hundreds of -gophers popping out of their holes, and as we see them close, sitting -up with their long bodies, they look like tiny kangaroos. We espy -coveys of prairie chickens, which are like our grouse. - -As we reach the open ground there is a splendid country spread out -before us. Far as the eye can reach, extending into the foot-hills at -the base of the Rockies, there are miles and miles of rolling upland -pastures, that resemble our Wiltshire downs. The whole of this vast -area has been "taken up," and is a succession of ranches. We can see -the little wooden houses with their outbuildings, scattered at long -intervals. Those innumerable specks on the downs are the cattle and -horses, literally "feeding on a thousand hills." We are following the -sweeping bends of the Elbow river, which lies below us in a cool green -ravine, full of trees, in pleasant contrast to the brown hills around. - -[Illustration: The Ranche Pupil.] - -The ranche we are going to belongs to Mr. Robinson, and used to -be called the Elbow Ranche, but has lately changed its name to the -Chippenham, in accordance with the idea of calling the ranches -hereabouts after the great English hunts. Messrs. Martin, Jameson, and -Gordon-Cumming (the latter of whom we met at the hotel with his pet -black bear), have called their ranche the Quorn. One ranche differs -not from the other, except in degrees of comfort. They are all built -of wood, generally with verandahs, and after the simplest model of -a square house, with a door in the centre and windows on each side. -There are no trees or shrubs, or creepers scarcely even an attempt at -a garden; a rough paling alone divides them from the prairie. Dogs -walk in and out and are part of the family. The plains are bare. Yet -what a world of romance lingers round the expression, "out ranching in -the West." We dream of sunrise and sunset on the open prairie, of wild -gallops in the early morning with the dew on the grass, of camping out -under the starlight. But I trow the reality is far removed from the -ideal, and that it ends with a bunk in the cowboy's hut wrapped up in -a blanket, with tough prairie beef and doughy bread for their fare. I -am sure if some fond mother could see her darling boy in his cowboy's -dress, and his quarters in the log hut, she would never be happy until -she had him by her side again. It is clearly a case of "where ignorance -is bliss," etc. But still, for a strong constitution there is nothing -to fear, and sobriety and industry may lead to fortune. - -We look at the "corral" or wooden pen, subdivided into partitions, -where, after the animals have been driven in, the one required is -gradually separated by being shut off in pen after pen, until a narrow -passage is reached. Here wooden barriers are let down and he is thus -confined in a cage. They can then brand him with an iron stamped with -the mark of the ranche. If it is a colt to be broken, they saddle, -bridle and mount him before leaving the pen. Then comes the struggle, -in which the rough rider requires great skill, tact, and experience, -for a horse will do anything to unseat his rider the first time. -Unmercifully sharp bits are used, but the horse is guided more by -the rein on the neck. The boys ride loosely when galloping over the -prairie, leaving the horse to look out for the holes, and he rarely -makes a mistake. - -The horses on this ranche are bronchos, but they have not sufficient -blood for the English market, and, added to this, the branding detracts -from their value. They are worth about 120 dols. each. This firing is -said to be a necessity, as the ranches are often 500 acres in extent. -The animals roam at will, with perhaps a couple of men, living in a log -hut twenty miles away from the ranche, told off to look after them. -Twice a year they "round up;" that is, the owners meet and appoint a -place, where the cattle are driven in and claimed by their owners, who -know them by their brands, and colts and calves are then marked. This -rounding up is done in the spring and the fall of every year, and is -beginning now. The brands are some of them very ingenious in device. -Settlers advertise in the newspapers for lost animals, giving their -brands, which are well known to all the country round. - -Does ranching pay? They tell us it can and does, but, as in every -other walk of life, hard work, capital and experience are required. -Those who are wise, before beginning ranching on their own account, go -through a cowboy apprenticeship on some ranche. Our driver in Calgary -confided to us "that them young men didn't do no good to themselves -out here, but they did good to the country, for they freely spent the -remittances from home." - -We came home by the Indian Sarcee Reserve. On an open space over the -river we saw some poles placed together with a suspended hook. It is -the place where the Indians "make their braves." In this terrible -ordeal their young men have this hook twisted into the muscles of -their chests and are drawn up by it. They must utter no cry of pain. -Indian encampments are met with all over the prairie. You know their -"topee" tents, by the poles sticking up in the centre, in distinction -to the ordinary tents of the half-breeds. They have numerous horses and -cattle, which are rounded up with others. They are kept by an inspector -within their reserves, and there is a large fine for anyone selling -them intoxicating drink. They appear innocent and harmless, and only -given to paltry thieving. - - - - -CHAPTER IV. - -THE CANADIAN ROCKIES AND THE SELKIRKS. - - -[Illustration: Howe Pass.] - -Since our arrival at Calgary we have been manœuvring to see by what -means we could escape the start at 2 o'clock in the morning. As the -C.P.R. has only one train westward each day, you must continue your -journey at the same time as you previously arrived. Now we have -received permission to travel by a freight train, and Mr. Niblock, the -Superintendent of the division, has kindly lent us his private car. - -The freight train was due between six and seven o'clock, and it was -somewhat annoying, as we had risen at 5 o'clock, to have to wait about -the platform at the station until nine. Early as it was, the town was -astir with sportsmen in their buggies with their guns and dogs, off for -a day's shooting on the prairie. For this bright morning is the 1st of -September, _their 12th of August_, and there will be massacre amongst -the prairie chickens ere nightfall. The shooting is open to all, and -you may roam over anybody's land. - -We can see the "Rockies" for the first time this morning. Since we -have been at Calgary the mountains have sulked in clouds and mist, and -Calgary does not, as some people would have you believe, lie _under_ -the Rockies, but fifty miles away. In the clear morning air, they -appear nearer to us than they really are. - -We are soon well into the foot-hills, those grassy rounded slopes, -which are the first rising ground from off the prairie, and which lead -up to and end in the Rocky Mountains. The blue Bow river flows merrily -in the valley; there are hundreds of horses and cattle feeding on these -river terraces, for there are ranches lying up to and under the foot of -the Rockies. - -The great amphitheatre of mountains, which has been coming nearer by -leaps and bounds, is beginning to impress us with its barren purple -scars, and just as we are entering among them our guard stops the -train, and takes us out to see the Kananaskis Falls in the Bow river. -We hear their dull and distant thunder before we see the clear mountain -torrent, sliding down over ledges of rock, forming a long white-flecked -rapid, before taking a final leap over a precipice. The conductor then -invites us to climb up into the caboose, and scrambling up, we are -perched inside the turret of the van, where there are windows that -command the view on all sides. We share this elevated position with the -brakesman, who is ready to run along the platform on the top of the -waggons, and turn on the brakes, for each waggon has a separate one, -connected with a wheel at the top. We subsequently discussed whether to -give this amiable conductor a tip, but came to the conclusion that it -was superfluous, on learning from the car attendant that his salary, -calculated at three cents a mile, gave him an income of 500_l._ a year. - -We are now breaking through the outer barrier of the Rockies, and -penetrating deeper into the mountains by a valley. The railway is -challenging the monarchs, for they rise up on every side and could so -easily crush us, as we wander through the green valley by the side -of the Bow river, our travelling comrade for many days to come. Its -waters are pale emerald green now, but later on will be milk-blue with -the melting snow and ground-up moraine, brought down by its mountain -tributaries. - -[Illustration: Kananaskis Falls.] - -We shoot "the gap," described as "two vertical walls of dizzy height." -It would be truer to say that the line turns sharply round a projection -of rock, whilst a mountain approaches from the other side. It is a -fraud! At Canmore we rest an hour. As we get out of the cars, the -intense stillness of the valley strikes us. We look up to, and are -covered by the shadows of the three well-defined slanting peaks of the -Three Sisters and the Wind mountain. When we start again the mountains -continue to increase in grandeur, though I think that Baroness -Macdonald's rhapsodies quoted in the Annotated Time Table, exaggerate -the beauty of this part of the Rockies. It is curious to notice the -remarkable difference between the two ranges we are passing through. -Those to the left are fantastically broken into varied shapes and forms -penetrated by crevasses, full of deep blue and purple-red shadows. -Whilst the range to the right is formed of grey and white hoary-headed -peaks, and look brilliantly cold and white, in the strong sunlight. - -[Illustration: Cascade Mountain.] - -We approach the Cascade Mountain. "This enormous mass seems to advance -towards us and meet us." It entirely blocks our further progress, and -the train seems to be going to travel up it. We appear to touch it, but -in reality it is many miles away. This Cascade Mountain gives you more -idea than anything else of the colossal proportion of the mountains, -which you lose by proximity, and by their uniformly large scale. It -also shows you the deception caused by the clearness of the atmosphere. -For the silver cascade which we see falling down its side is ten feet -across, and yet it looks like a thread of cotton. The mountain we could -well-nigh touch is five miles or more away. It is a striking sensation. - -[Illustration: Cascade Mountain, Banff.] - -Another half-hour and we reach Banff. As a whole, I think this part of -the scenery disappointing, but people talk so much about it, because it -is their first experience of the mountains, coming as it does too after -a thousand miles of prairie. - -We are hot and tired after our journey, and have long to wait for "the -rig," which is repeatedly telephoned for. When it does appear it is -drawn by a vicious roan, fresh from a ranche, which shies and bolts in -a terrifying way. There are two miles of a badish road, which we do not -see for the clouds of dust that accompany us. This dust is the drawback -to Banff. The mountains have not come up to our expectations. Will it -be so also with Banff? To-morrow will show. - -_Wednesday, September 2nd._--A day to be remembered. A day of complete -satisfaction. - -Cradled in the stillness of the mountains, closed in by them in -solemnity and darkness, the babble of the Bow River joining its waters -with the Spray, we fell asleep. This morning, the sun of a most perfect -day awakes us, and the sound of the rushing waters is the first to -greet our ears. My windows form two sides of the room, and I dress with -the sun streaming in at the one and the breeze at the other, and a -panorama of mountains seen from them both. The air is exhilarating to -intoxication; the atmosphere intensely clear. We do nothing all day, we -live in the companionship of the mountains. - -We have been with them in the early morning, when the pale-rose tints, -the opalescent blue, the delicate pearl-grey, lay lightly on their -rugged summits, and made them seem so near and tender. We have seen -them in the heat of noon, looking strong and hard, with black shadows -in the crevasses and their great stony veins and muscles standing out -in relief in the sunshine. They seem full of manhood, defiant, and -self-sufficient. We have watched these same mountains in the glamour of -declining days, soften again as the shadows steal up the pine woods, -leaving patches of sunlight. One side of the valley is in gloom, whilst -the other is bathed in golden light. Their grey peaks stand out as if -cut with a sharp-edged knife against the even paleness of the sky. A -few fir trees at their summit look like green needle-points, and the -trail of pines climbing up the mountain, like soldiers marching in -single file trying to scale the fortress heights. - -[Illustration: BIRDS EYE VIEW OF BANFF FROM TUNNEL MTN.] - -In the centre of the valley, there are two great mountains, and as -I write they are becoming wrapped in purple-blue gloom, with sable -shadows in their granite sides, and whilst the valley is in darkness, -the peaks are still bright with the last gleams of fading daylight. -Behind this mountain again, there are three acute peaks, which stand -from behind its dark shoulder, and they are rosy-red with an Alpine -after-glow. - -As we sit out after dinner in the gloaming, the mountains are still -dimly visible. They have lost their individuality, and their soft full -outlines are limned against the luminous sky. Stars rise from behind -them; there is one of intense brightness, and several shooting ones -make a bright pathway across the mountains. - -There are mountains of every description at Banff. It is this variety -that gives such charm to the place. Some are entirely clothed with -pines, others partly so, with barren summits. Others again are nothing -but rock and granite from base to summit, from earth _almost_ to -heaven, and down their sides there are marked deep slides, where the -rock and limestone has crumbled into an avalanche of stone and dust. -The changes on their unchanging surfaces are the most beautiful. -Like human nature, hard on the surface, they have hidden soft and -susceptible moods. The pine-clad mountains are sunnier and more -pleasing, but it is those of adamantine rock that fascinate you. - -They say that no view is perfect without water. The Bow River here -gives the poetry of motion, and makes music to echo against the hills. -It has the most perfect miniature falls I ever saw. They are pretty, -yet not tame; they are noisy, yet not thundering; they murmur and -quarrel without producing soul-agonizing sounds. They charm, but do not -exercise the dangerous fascination of Niagara. Their water is creamy -blue in the sunlight, and cerulean in the shadow of the ravine, down -which in bars and trails of foam it rushes, until it throws itself over -the fall, in a snow-white cloud, flecking the rocks on the banks with -froth. - -[Illustration: BOW VALLEY.] - -All the mountains have names--such as the Twin Brothers, the Sentinel, -the Devil's head; but these names are meaningless. You know and grow -to love each by its own individual characteristic. The hotel in their -midst scarcely mars the scene, for it is a picturesque structure -perched on a natural platform, built of yellow wood, and with a roof of -warm red shingles, and green trellises to cover the foundations. Its -situation is so perfect that you scarcely improve your view, or want -to drive about the valleys. You may, perhaps, come a little nearer to -the mountains, or see their reverse sides. There is one, however, the -Twin Brethren, which gains by coming near to it, because you can stand -absolutely under a mammoth rampart of granite, shot straight into mid -air, horizontally upward. It strikes fear into you as you gaze up to -it, and as with these mountains comparison is the only thing which -gives you even the remotest idea of their superb size, a great rock, -as big as a small hill in itself, broke off some years ago and lies on -the ground, amid smaller stones, as we ought to call them, but which -are really large rocks. We can trace the exact place where it cracked -away from the symmetry of rock, leaving an unseemly cavity and a long -moraine of _débris_. The air is so dry that everything is like tinder. -Forest fires are frequent, and we mark their track up the mountain -sides and see the smoke of one or two. A few mutilated trees are all -that are left of the magnificent primeval forest, and the pines we see -are a second and third growth. - -[Illustration: BANFF SPRINGS HOTEL, CANADIAN NATIONAL PARK.] - -Though the mountains stand around so silent and stately, there is a -great unrest beneath them. A volcano burns below, which may break forth -at any time, for Banff has several hot mineral pools and springs, sure -indication that the earth here is only an upper crust, with hell-fire -beneath. - -The temperature of these springs is 127 degrees Fahrenheit, and there -are baths for the outer man, and taps of water for the inner. - -[Illustration: The Pool. Hot Springs, Banff.] - -_Thursday, September 3rd._--A day of blankest disappointment. A cruel -change from yesterday. From early morning the mountains have been -blurred and blotted out by an impenetrable haze of smoke. The sun, -though ready to give us all it did yesterday, has not shone, and has -been only a fiery ball suspended in the air. It is caused by a forest -fire raging destruction, it may be, many miles from here, but the -smoke, from the smouldering, spreads and hangs like a curtain, lasting -often for many days. We canoed up the Bow River to the pretty Vermilion -Lakes. - -_Friday, September 4th._--I could not resist a peep out of my window -at four o'clock. The outlook was more promising I thought, and went -back to bed cheered. We left the hotel at six. Cold despair settled on -us all, for the mountains loomed gloomily through a colourless haze. -Exceedingly cold and depressed, we huddled into the sheltered corner -of the Observation Car, a car for the view, open on all sides. I had -heard so much of the magnificent scenery that I had looked forward -keenly to this crossing of the Rockies, and it seemed I was to be -disappointed. After all, it is only like the disappointments you meet -with in life, as, nine times out of ten, the thing most wished for, is -a disillusionment when it comes. - -Range after range of mountains is unfolding before us. They approach: -we pass immediately under them, and they recede, only to give place -to others as grand and massive. All are of solid rock, colossal -masonry piled up to magnificent proportions, their zeniths crowned -with pinnacles and spires, with square and round and pointed towers. -In one place you distinctly see the steps leading up to a broken -column. The most impressive one is Castle Mountain, though the -isolated helmet-shaped peak of Lefroy, 11,200 feet, is the loftiest. -This mountain stands in solitary majesty by itself in the valley. -There is no ascending or descending range near it. You can see the -battlements, with their loop-holes regularly jagged out at the summit -of the bastions, and a tower at either end. They are faintly yet -clearly discernible. It is truly a Giant's Keep, and I think the finest -mountain in the range, though they are all so sublime and grand in this -wonderful valley that it is scarcely fair to discriminate. Running -concurrently with the track is our dear old friend, the Bow. We have -lived continuously with it for three days, and feel quite friendly -towards it. - -Soon we see the beginning of the glacier range, and feel the awe -inspired by those eternal ice-bound regions where winter reigns for -ever, and none can live, and where even nature cannot vegetate. The -glaciers lie frozen on to their surface, finding foothold in a crevasse -or basin, hollowed out probably by their own action. Under one of these -glaciers lie the Trinity of Lakes, called the Lonely Lakes of the -Rocky Mountains, one beneath the other, with Lake Agnes touched by the -glacier. At Laggan we have a heavier engine attached, and extra bolts -and brakes screwed on. - -We begin the ascent of the Rockies; the crossing of the Great Divide. -It is gradual and not nearly such a dramatic incident as the crossing -of the Great Divide of the Americans. In fact, the gradients are so -gently engineered that, though the engine makes a great noise about -it, you scarcely believe you have reached the top, and are looking for -something more exciting when you see the wooden arch at the summit, -on which is inscribed "The Great Divide." In this case it alludes -mockingly to the tiny stream which here divides and flows towards the -Atlantic on one side, and the Pacific on the other. There is here a -deep green lake, called Summit Lake. - -We begin the descent by a succession of perfectly equal curves that -incline first to the right and then to the left, bearing us downwards -all the time. And now comes what is by far the most memorable scene in -the Rockies. It is deeply impressive, and is only too swiftly passed. -It is called the Kicking Horse Pass. We must turn for a moment from -the sublime to the ridiculous for the origin of this name. When the -party of surveyors reached the summit of the pass a white pony kicked -off its pack. This gave it the name, which will now always cling to -it. We cross the Wapta river on to its left side, and plunge wildly, -recklessly, into a deep gorge. Deeper and deeper we rush down into the -canyon, darker and more impressive the situation becomes as we cling -to the mountain side, whilst the river tears down yet deeper than us, -until it appears a caldron of foaming silver in the gloom at the bottom -of the gorge. And, look, up on one side is a perpendicular mountain -of which, so far down are we, we cannot see the summit; on the other, -there are those supremely graceful spires of Cathedral Mount, pointing -with silent finger to the sky. If you look down into that immensity -of depth, and then up as far as the eye can reach, this is what you -see. First, the silver river gleaming in its black channel; on a level -and opposite to you a bank of bright green moss and ferns and tangled -growth; then tiers and tiers of pine trees wending skywards, until -they reach the base of the rock, whence spring those airy towers. -The great Duomo head of Mount Stephen beyond forms a superb dome to -these sentinel spires that are so light and gracefully poised in such -close proximity to heaven. Straight, in front, and shutting in this -marvellous gorge, is the angular peak of Mount Field. Just past the -summit there are a number of graves of men who died of mountain fever, -which broke out whilst they were making the line. - -[Illustration: MOUNT STEPHEN, THE KING OF THE CANADIAN ROCKIES.] - -Mount Stephen, called after the first President of the Railway, Lord -Mount-Stephen, absorbs our attention next. It is certainly the most -superb mountain of the Rockies. On its "swelling shoulder" is seen -a shining green glacier, "which is slowly pressing forward and over -a vertical cliff of great height." The cyclopean masses of rock are -richly veined in red and purple. As the train humbly creeps round the -base, the summit is entirely lost to us. Opposite are the swelling -mountains of the Van Horne range; they touch the muddy, shingly bed of -a river. - -We breakfast at the pretty hotel at Field, and feel disgusted that -the claims of nature must be satisfied, whilst Mount Stephen in its -glorious might and strength, and its limitless surface of adamantine -rock, raises its hoary zenith immediately above us. We made the -greatest mistake in not staying a day here, and, by ascending a -neighbouring mountain, being still more impressed with its colossal -proportions. - -On leaving Field, we travel between the "orderly array of peaks of the -two ranges of Otter-Tail and the Beaver Foots." - -At Palliser, the driver allows us to ride on the engine through the -Second Kicking Horse Pass. It runs madly down into growing darkness, -closer and higher the mountains draw. The boiling river disputes the -narrow chasm with us, and it is a hand-to-hand struggle in which the -line has frequently to give up to the river, and to cross over from -side to side to gain a footing. The engine tears wildly down hill, -reeling round the sharp curves at an angle of 20°, with the train -doubling itself. You cannot hear yourself speak for the noise of the -foaming river and the panting of the engine. As we plunge into the -dread darkness of a tunnel, the engine whistles, and the echo is dying, -dying, dead, to us--as we are lost in blackness. It is wonderful to -see the driver control this huge, puffing, black monster by a gentle -pressure on two valve handles, which it resents with an indignant -snort. We emerge into light and space again at Golden. We come suddenly -back to a commonplace life, as represented by this wooden mining -village. It is farewell to the Rockies. - -I think most people have an idea that the engineering feats of the -Pacific Railway were performed in the crossing of the Rockies. They -do not realize, any more than we did, that we have another and far -more difficult range to surmount, before reaching the Pacific coast. -The Selkirk range is more beautiful and grander. It has more snow and -glacier peaks than the Rockies. - -We are in a green valley, with the Selkirks dimly seen to the left, -whilst the Rockies are diminishing to a low range to the right, and we -have found a new river in the broad Columbia. We are reminded that we -have crossed the Great Dividing Watershed, for this river is running -the opposite way down to the ocean. - -It is but a short breathing space, for almost at once the mountains -close together, and we are in another of those lovely gorges, each one -of which, would make famous any railway. Through a perfectly formed -natural gateway of rock, so narrow that it can be crossed by a slender -sapling, the tempestuous waters of the Beaver River hurry to join the -Columbia. This is a smiling little valley, full of blue-green pines, -mingling with the tender greens of young poplars, and the yellow moss -and lichens covering the rocks. From this valley we pass into the heart -of the Selkirks. - -We have become accustomed to the line climbing up the mountain side, -and we can tell how rapidly we are now doing this by the dwindling of -the Beaver River, by whose side we were a minute ago, and which is now -far away down in the valley. Its pale green waters trace out the most -perfect curves of the letter S, and flow in a park with pine woods. And -it is all so far away--down, down--and would be such a terrific fall. -Immediately opposite to us are the mountains, and we are equal to about -half way up them, and through the haze they appear to us so very near, -and so very large. The panorama is magnificent; the detailed picture -is impressive, when, from gazing down boundless depths, the eye is -lifted through miles of pine forests, up to grey crags, too high for -vegetation. - -Growing by the side of the line there are gigantic pines, Douglas fir -and cedar. They are so straight, without curve, or be knot, that one -cannot help thinking what splendid masts they would make for some big -ship. Many of their tops are on a level with us, whilst, by peering -down, we can with difficulty see their roots. But like all these -Canadian forests, the finest trees are dismembered or mutilated by -burning, and their graceful, fringe-like foliage is often brown and -singed. - -The railway is now going to cross several deep gullies on wooden -trestle-bridges. These bridges appear frail and weak for the purpose, -the valleys being deep, and the trains so heavy. They creak and groan -ominously as the train passes on them. Water-butts and a watcher -are stationed on them, in case of fire from a spark of the engine. -The Stony Creek Bridge, over a sleep V-shaped valley, is one of the -loftiest railway bridges in the world; hundreds of square yards of -timber were used in its construction, and it rests on three piers, 295 -feet above the ravine. We have enchanting peeps up these bright green -gullies, with their noisy rills jumping and scrambling down anyhow, so -long as they reach the bottom of the valley, and we rush to one side of -the car to be pleased by this, and then to the other, to be frightened -by gazing into space. - -Roger's Pass, the culminating beauty of the Selkirks--named after the -engineer--is approaching. There are two mountains, Mount Macdonald -and Mount Hermit, but they are so mighty, that if you have not seen -them you have no chance of picturing them to yourself. To give you -some idea of their colossal proportions, Mount Macdonald is one mile -and a quarter in a vertical line above the railway. The bottom is -a stone's throw from the car. Mount Hermit is equal in size on the -other side. These mountains were united, but some great convulsion of -nature has split them apart. This is a moment in your existence, and -you would give much to prolong it; the scene is indescribable. The -other mountains of this pass are covered with snow, and seven or eight -thousand feet above us are many glistening glaciers, pure as crystal. - -It is sad that this part of the line is spoilt by the snow-sheds, -constructed of massive timber, and into which we are shot and blinded -with smoke and coal grit, emerging frequently to get glimpses of these -wonderful mountains, with their pale-blue and green glaciers hanging -above us,--glimpses which are imprinted on the memory for long, as we -shoot into another of these exasperating snow-sheds. It is ungrateful -to grumble at them, for the difficulties of this part of the line, with -snow in winter, are enormous, and we must always bear in mind that were -it not for the enterprise of the Company we should not at this moment -be sitting comfortably in a car, passing through the finest scenery in -the world. There may be grander, but it has yet to be discovered. - -Emerging from Roger's Pass, by a deep bend on the mountain side, we -have a sudden transition into the fir-clad valley of the Illicilliwaet, -the river of this name far below, and for many miles seeking the bottom -of the valley, the railway doing likewise. Straight ahead the white -ghost of the great glacier of the Selkirks. - -We left the train here, and stayed at the pretty Swiss chalet of the -Glacier house. It lies half-way up the valley and under the glacier, -with the hoary peak of Sir Donald frowning down on it. - -The afternoon had cleared up, there was even a gleam of sunshine, -and the first thing to do was to walk up to the Glacier, through a -beautiful pine forest, whose interlacing branches are covered with -hanging trails of white moss, resembling an old man's beard. The ground -is soft, and covered with a bright-brown saw-dust from the decaying -trunks that lie around. We cross the path of a mighty avalanche, which, -sweeping down from a mountain below Sir Donald, hurled itself across -the valley, huge rocks, trunks of trees and _débris_ being piled across -the pathway. The green moraine on the mountain shows how soon nature -recoups herself. There are wild gooseberry and currant bushes, and we -eat plentifully of wild raspberries and blueberries. - -As you stand under the Glacier, you see that it has filled in the side -between two mountains, and the white rounded outline at the summit is -exquisitely pure. It is where it joins the crumbling moraine that it -is most beautiful, because here there are caves of intense blue, of -pale green, and of that indescribable opaque aquamarine, only seen in -perfection in the horseshoe bend at Niagara. From these ice caverns, -from under the glacier, torrents of water are always pouring forth. -It is the echo from the mountains, that makes such a little volume of -water cause such a roaring, rushing sound. Looking down in proud cold -sadness on the glacier, is the blue-grey peak of Sir Donald. It is such -a cold, unsympathetic peak, rearing its barren head so proudly above -its compatriots. Facing homewards, there is that other snow-capped -range, with Ross peak and an immense glacier on its shoulder. They are -fields of ice and snow untrodden by the foot of man, and covered with -eternal snows. As you look round this perfect valley, you are so shut -out from the world, that you wonder how you ever entered it. The two -iron bands at the platform by the hotel form the only link beyond those -impassable walls. - -A gentle gloom settles down over the valley. We stroll about after -dinner, amidst the deathlike stillness of the mountains, broken only by -the murmuring from out the darkness of the ice stream. Looming closely -above us, overhanging as if it would slide down, is the dead and white -ghost of the glacier. We sleep under its shadow. - -[Illustration: GREAT GLACIER, CANADIAN ROCKIES.] - -The glorious morning sunshine is touching Sir Donald and the snow -peaks, whilst the valley we are in lies so deep down, that it is still -in shadow. The pleasure of awakening in such glorious surroundings -makes us feel the pleasure of living. - -We spend the morning in climbing a mountain to Mirror Lake, winding up -and up in the shade Of the red-stemmed cedars, and at each precipitous -curve, the snow-sheets on the line dwindle, and we seem to get more on -a level with the surrounding mountains. The Ross Peak and Range look -specially beautiful to-day. The crevasses are so strongly marked with -blue shadows, the peaks are such a soft silver grey, and in the very -bosom of Mount Ross is the virgin snow of a pure glacier, fit house -for the Ice Maiden. I have never any wish to explore mountains such -as these. There is a feeling that we desecrate them by trying to come -nearer to them, and that nature never meant us to know them, except -from below, and then only with admiration akin to awe. I like to feel -that their summits are untrodden by human foot, that they have been so -for ages, and will continue so until the end of time. - -On descending, we were glad to find we had two more hours at Glacier, -the west-bound train being late. - -[Illustration: The Loops.] - -Directly the train leaves Glacier it begins to drop down into the -valley below, by leaps and bounds, so quickly do we run from side -to side of the valley by "the Loops." These Loops describe circles -across the valley, and first we face and touch the base of the Ross -Peak, then return, by doubling back a mile or more, until we lie under -the Glacier House. We describe yet one more loop, and then the train -shoots head-foremost into the valley. Looking back and marvelling how -the train can possibly mount up this deep pine-filled ravine, you -see the great gashes cut across it by the railway embankment. We are -rushing downwards at great speed, but not at greater speed than the -Illicilliwaet River, which races us. It foams and gushes as we steam -and whistle, and so we go down the gorge together, until we are deep in -the gloom of its cold shades. We thunder through snow-sheds and over -delicate trestle-bridges until we are buried in the Albert Canyon. Here -we get out to see the Illicilliwaet compressed into a rocky defile -of inky depth and blackness. It foams with anger. We pass other and -similar canyons, and so on for another hour, with ever varying and -beautiful scenery. - -Then a change creeps over the mountains, they are all round on their -summits and mostly covered entirely with dense fir forests. There are -no more rock and ice-bound peaks. They are opening out a little. Now, -as we get lower down, we begin to see some specimens of those splendid -fir trees, for which British Columbia is famous. Again, these dreadful -forest fires have ravaged them. The river and railway have descended -the valley together, and continue side by side on the plain, until at -length the last curve is rounded, and we run into Revelstoke. As we -walk on the platform we feel such a difference in the temperature. The -Pacific air is so soft and warm after the keen dryness of the mountain -atmosphere. We meet the Columbia River again after a day's absence. It -has been flowing round the northern extremity of the Selkirks, whilst -we have been crossing their summit, and has grown into a navigable -river. The observation car is taken off, sure sign that the crossing of -the Selkirks is a thing of the past. - -Before finishing with this part of our travels, I should recommend -anyone to profit by our experience, and to stay one day at Field, and -to allow of sufficient time for two days at Glacier, as I think anyone -would consider it quite worth while to take a freight train back to -Golden, returning a second time over the Selkirks by the next day's -train. There is a great want (which is, I believe, in process of being -supplied) of a detailed guidebook, and by next year doubtless the -increased traffic will warrant an additional train a day. - -We think that we have seen the last of the mountains, but a few minutes -after leaving Revelstoke, and crossing the Columbia, we are entering -the Gold Range. - -It is getting dusk, we are satiated with mountains, and I am as weary -of writing about them as you, forbearing reader, of reading these -descriptions. Night comes to relieve us both. One is glad, however, to -think that this Gold Range "seems to have been provided by nature for -the railway, in compensation perhaps for the enormous difficulties that -had to be overcome in the Rockies and Selkirks." At Craigellachie the -last spike of the Canadian Pacific Line was driven on November 7th, -1885. With what rejoicings and triumph the surveyors and engineers must -have seen the finish of their long and desperate struggle. We pass -through a forest fire this night, and see isolated trunks smouldering -like fiery cones, whilst others in falling send out a shower of sparks, -that kindle fresh flames in many places. - -[Illustration: Frazer Cañon above Spuzzum.] - -We awake the next morning in the Fraser Canyon, and are going through -magnificent scenery for many hours. We hang over the side of the -canyon, and look down on the waters swirling and rushing at our feet, -whilst over and over again the rocks seem to bar our progress, and we -either rush into a tunnel, or creep round them on ledges of rock with -the help of trestle-bridges. Breakfast at North Bend, like everything -that the C.P.R. does, is excellent, for when they are not able to run a -dining car over the mountains, they provide excellent meals at hotels, -such as this, and those at Field and Glacier, all of which are run by -the company. - -[Illustration: Frazer Cañon.] - -[Illustration: Frazer Cañon.] - -We fly over the fertile plains of Columbia, and run on to Burrard's -Inlet by Port Moody. This is the beginning of the sea,--so soon to -be our home for some time. We see much lumber lying about the low -wooded banks opposite, and floating by the shore. We turn a corner, -run quickly by the railway workshops, and amidst clouds of dust reach -Vancouver. It is a great comfort to wash, unpack, and to settle down -for two quiet days. - -"And what do you think of our city?" is the question addressed to -all newcomers by the residents of Vancouver. This question is the -invariable opening to a conversation, we have noticed, by the residents -of all new cities. In this case it is very pardonable, as five years -ago the site of Vancouver was a smoking plain. A fire had swept away -the newly-risen city. As soon as it was known that the C.P.R. intended -Vancouver to be the terminus to their 3000 miles of railway, building -recommenced with renewed vigour. Like everyone else, we are astonished -by the number of streets and handsome stone buildings. The vacant -building sites that we see amongst them, are the object of much booming -and land speculation. Cordova is now the principal street, but, as -it is low down on the wharf, at no distant date it will probably be -abandoned to offices and wholesale warehouses, whilst Hastings Street, -on the block higher up, will be the fashionable avenue. Real Estate -offices abound in Vancouver, and everyone appears to dabble more or -less in land speculation. Newcomers are always bitten, and up to the -moment of sailing we hesitated (but finally rejected) about becoming -possessors of a corner block in Cordova Street. There have been many -successful speculations and large sums made in an incredibly short -space of time. Ten per cent. is what everybody expects on their -investments. Opinions are still divided as to whether Vancouver really -has so great a future before it. Some say it is already over-built. - -The harbour of Vancouver is thought sufficiently beautiful to be -compared to that of Sydney. It is a perfect site for a city, with the -wooded ranges of mountains rising on the further shore of the harbour, -though it was not until sunset of the second day of our arrival, that -the clouds rolled away sufficiently for us to see them. The two peaks, -called the Lions, are wonderfully faithful outlines of the lions in -Trafalgar Square. The Indian Mission village lying under the mountains, -looks clean and bright. - -Vancouver has a beautiful park. We drove eight miles round one -afternoon and were delighted with it. It is the virgin forest preserved -in its natural forest glades, with magnificent Douglas firs, spruce, -white pine, cypress, aspen poplar, mountain ash, and giant cedar, -whilst bracken ferns and moss grow luxuriantly on the decaying trunks. -The road is traced by the side of the sea and English Bay, and the -smell of the salt water mingles with the fragrance of the pines and -cedars. Some of these pines are colossal in girth and height, though -not equal to the big trees of the Yosemite. The cedars are great in -circumference, but not of such height, and the finest specimens are -sadly mutilated by lightning. - -The seeds of eternal enmity were sown between Vancouver and Victoria -when the former became the port of the railway. This animosity is -carried to great extremes. A Victoria man will not ensure his life -in a Vancouver office. Sarah Bernhardt is coming here next week, but -because she refused the Victorians' offer of $1000 more, Victoria -has determined to boycott the performance at Vancouver, and make it -a failure. Their childish jealousy may be likened to that between -Melbourne and Sydney, and Toronto and Montreal. We are sorry not to -have time to go to Victoria. I believe it is very pretty, for everybody -out here has said: "Oh! you must see Victoria, it is so pretty, and so -_very_ English." This, abroad, is not precisely a recommendation in our -eyes. - -Our last afternoon in Vancouver, we went across to Burrard's Inlet, -to see the Moodyville Saw Mills. The enormous trunks are raised, -attached to hooks, by a pulley out of the water on one side, passed -under a saw whose two wheels whirl through and cut up the timber in a -few minutes. It is sawn into three planks by another machine, laid on -rollers, passed down on the other side of the mill and shipped into the -steamer loading at the wharf. In three minutes a tree that has taken -300 years to grow (you can reckon its age, if you have patience, in the -concentric rings on the trunk), will be sawn up; in fifteen minutes -it will be cut, planed and shipped. The trees we saw operated on were -chiefly Oregon pines. - -Before leaving Canadian soil, there are several things to mention, -which we have observed in travelling across the continent. Canada is -in many ways quite as much American as English. They have the American -system at hotels of making a fixed and inclusive charge of from three -to four dollars per day. They also have the varied _ménu_, which I -counted at one hotel to include fifty items. True, Oolong, Ceylon, -besides English breakfast, tea, and fancy bread of all sorts, is put -down to swell the items. Still we have often wished that the assortment -of food was smaller, but better served. The Canadians use as much ice -water, and consume as largely of fruit at all meals, as the Americans. -Carriages are as expensive as in America, the reason being that -tramways and electric cars are universally used as means of locomotion. -Their railway system of drawing-room cars, sleepers, and dining cars -are identical. Nor can their mode of speech be wholly excepted, for -true born and bred Canadian often speaks with an equally pronounced -accent as any American, and makes use of many of their expressions, -such as "on such a street, a dry-goods store," etc. - -In the universal and domestic use of electric light, Canada, like -America, is twenty years ahead of us. Each little city has it, but -then this is a new country and there are no great monopolies as in -England to be considered. It is the same with the telephone. All public -buildings, offices, shops, and almost every private house in a city has -its telephone. A great amount of business is transacted through it, and -ladies use it for their daily orders to tradesmen. The convenience is -great, but the incessant tinkling of the bell invades the sanctity of -home, viz. privacy. A lady recently arrived from England rightly called -it "the scourge of the country." - -As in America, domestic servants are scarcely obtainable. I found most -Canadian ladies thought themselves lucky with one servant, and in -luxury with two. A nurse is an unknown necessity to many mothers, who -tend their children entirely. This accounts for the number of children -travelling (we counted nineteen in two cars on one journey) and in -hotels. There is no one to leave them with at home. If unavoidable, -they are none the less a noisy nuisance. - -Canada, if she is to be developed, requires a better line of steamers -than the Allan to compete in speed and luxury with the great New York -liners. She must be populated, and so long as the White Star and -other lines offer such far superior accommodation for the same rates -(four pounds) so long will the emigrants select that route. Every -trip the 1000 emigrants landed at New York, are 1000 able-bodied -English, Scotch, or Irish men lost to Canada. A strong government -should initiate a large immigration scheme, vote a handsome subsidy and -ask the Imperial Government to contribute a similar one. As we have -travelled from the Atlantic to the Pacific, we have passed through -thousands of miles abounding in natural resources, of mineral wealth -and lumber, lying in their primeval state, undeveloped and unpopulated, -whilst her rivals across the border are increasing rapidly the wealth -and prosperity of their country by a free immigration, only wisely -refusing to be made, like England, the "dumping" ground for the paupers -of other nations. - -Canada languishes for the want of population and capital. Give them to -her, and she will become the finest country in the world, and our most -prosperous as well as most loyal colony--British to the heart. - - - - -CHAPTER V. - -TO THE LAND OF THE RISING SUN. - - -On Wednesday, September 9th, 1891, we embarked on board the Pacific -s.s. _Empress of Japan_. We congratulate ourselves upon having a roomy -cabin exactly amidships on the main deck, and the unprecedented luxury -of two drawers and two cupboards. Otherwise our voyage does not promise -well. The C.P.R. thoroughly understands its opportunities, and their -putting on three new steamships, the _Empresses of Japan_, _India_, and -_China_, is justified by the large number of saloon passengers. Thirty -passengers have been their average up to the last voyage, when it was -sixty, and this time it is 130. We hope that the resources of the ship -will not break down under this strain, but consider it doubtful. The -stewards are all Chinese, and excellent they appear, especially our -table steward, who boasted the aristocratic name of "Guy." - -It was a miserable day, the rain coming down in torrents, and under -the wet awnings we dawdled about until the mails, five hours late, -arrived. At six o'clock we left the wharf and went "forward" to see -this ship of 4000 tons pass through the confined channel of "The -Narrows." We could almost have touched the overhanging branches of the -trees in the park, so closely did the ship hug the bank. At midnight -we stopped opposite to Victoria to take on board some more passengers. -They were in a sorry plight, for they had been sitting on an open barge -in pitch darkness, and in pouring rain, for six hours. - -The next day was cold, gloomy, and rough. Scarcely a soul but was sick -and sorry. The usual whale excited but a feeble interest along the row -of deck chairs, occupied by people in varying stages of _malaise_. We -must expect bad weather. In truth we had a miserably cold cheerless -voyage across this Northern Pacific Ocean, and it was such a contrast -to our bright and sunny passage across the South Pacific, from San -Francisco to Auckand, six years ago. The ship takes a northerly course -until we get to the mouth of the Behring Sea. Here we had a miserable -Sunday. Such an angry grey sea, crested with white horses, seething -and boiling around us. It was abominably rough. Everybody was sea-sick -again, and, to complete the tale of woe, there was a dense sea-fog, the -decks dripping with this clammy moisture and from the spray, as the -_Empress's_ nose was buried in the ocean's waves and, quivering from -stem to stern, she rose and shook herself. The discordant shriek of the -fog-horn was heard all day. Everybody agrees that life on board ship is -bearable if you can be on deck, some even may go so far as to enjoy it, -though I cannot say that we belong to that number, but when, as on this -occasion, that refuge was denied to us, we were indeed miserable. We -had service in the saloon, the little remnant able to appear, and all -joined in those familiar prayers, that seem to bind us together on the -stormy ocean as "one family in heaven and earth." The Bishop of Exeter, -who, with his son, the Bishop of Japan, is on board, preached the -sermon. Weary of being knocked about at the mercy of the waves, there -was not a soul on board but was thankful when night came, and we sought -such rest as we could find in our berths. - -We shall have a Wednesday missing all our lives, that of Wednesday, -September 17th, and we have lost a whole day, besides sundry and many -half-hours by the putting back of the ship's clock. We are now just -half-way round the world from the Greenwich meridian. - -The next day we saw one island of the Aleutian group, and the "early -birds" saw a snow-cone on it. These islands extend for many miles at -the entrance to the Behring Sea, and we discover that in the event of a -shipwreck our boats have orders to steer for this island. There are a -number of missionaries, from thirty to forty, on board, who, with their -wives and numerous families are bound for China. Some of them are very -intolerant, as was shown when the officers got up a dance, and there -was some question as to where the piano would come from: "Oh!" said -one, "the devil will be sure to provide that." - -The last two days we experience a sudden change from the intense cold. -We awake one morning to find a tropical downpour, accompanied by a damp -heat that enervates everybody, and this is accompanied by the tail end -of a typhoon, and a grand sea. All ports are closed, the heat below -is terrific, and the ship labours and rolls heavily. And thus ends a -most disagreeable and lonely voyage, for we have not seen a single sail -since leaving Vancouver. - -There is no sensation in the world more delightful than landing in a -new country, and especially when it is in such a different corner of -the world as Japan. - -Our expectations are vague and enthusiastic, but, alas! the approach -to Yokohama through the beautiful channel of islands is lost to us. -We are on deck at 5 a.m., only to see the lights of the numerous -lighthouses on the coast extinguished, and then blotted out in blinding -mists of rain. Fugi, the sacred mountain, whose cone, dominating the -whole island, we had been taught to watch for in our first view of -Japan, is lost to us. Sullen clouds and the gloomiest grey sky hang -over Yokohama. - -The departure from the _Empress of Japan_ is a scene of more than -usual confusion, but we get safely down the one gangway, thronged with -passengers and their luggage, and into the steam-launch sent for us -by the Government, and are soon speeding along the pretty Bund to the -Grand Hotel. The first morning on shore after a long voyage is always a -harassing one. There are letters to be posted, the money of the country -to be obtained, departure of the next steamer to be ascertained, and -here in Japan, above all, passports to be seen about, for you cannot -leave the Treaty Ports without one. We afterwards found that in an -incredibly short space after arriving in any town, the police always -came to inquire for a passport. Then we had to engage a guide, without -which you are assured you cannot travel in Japan. I may at once say -that, though we had an excellent guide, we found him an unnecessary -nuisance, and parted with him in a few days. In going into the interior -of the country you require one to cook and arrange, but keeping to the -more beaten tracks you can comfortably manage without. - -Of course we have spent the whole of our first day in Japan in -jinrikishas. Everyone does so. Nor can we resist a visit to the curio -shops, though we harden ourselves against temptations, knowing that -we shall have but too many opportunities to spend in the future. We -were glad of this afterwards, for we heard that the curio dealers, -on learning the large number of passengers leaving Vancouver on the -_Empress of Japan_, had met together and by agreement raised their -prices. In the afternoon we went for a drive round the Bluff, or -European Settlement. Yokohama is a treaty port, and at these ports, -which were first opened by the efforts of Commodore Perry to foreigners -in 1868, a concession of land was allotted to the Europeans, where -alone they are allowed to reside. And very charming houses they have -built here, coloured red and green, or grey, and buff, with well-kept -roads and pretty gardens, fenced in with bamboo hedges. We drive round -by the racecourse, with its grand stand and white railings just like -our Epsom course. The Mikado visits Yokohama once a year to come to the -races, and we see his private box on the top of the stand. Then home by -the sea-shore and across a plain of rice fields, descending through the -Settlement once more. - -Yokohama is a cosmopolitan place and enjoys the glamour of being the -landing-place in a new country and the first sight of a new nation, -hut it contains nothing of interest. Along the Bund or sea wall is a -row of grey verandahed houses, looking very Eastern amongst their palm -trees. Behind the sea front there are two or three streets, chiefly -containing curio shops, interspersed with many grey walled godowns with -their forbidding barred and shuttered windows. People stay at Yokohama, -some because the hotel is comfortable, some, like the American ladies, -who, though bringing large boxes of dresses, are so fascinated by the -Chinese tailors' prices, that they stay to have more made, others -again to haunt the curio shops, and really the selection of articles -made with a view to the wants of the ordinary traveller is so good, -that you can scarcely do better, we determined afterwards, than shop -at Yokohama. Others again are so foolish as to be marked for life, by -employing the services of Hori-Chigo, whose advertisement runs thus: -"The celebrated Tattooer, patronized by T.R.H. Princes Albert Victor -and George, and known all over the world for his fine and artistic -work. Designs and samples can be seen at the Tattooing Rooms." - -_Thursday, September 24th._--Such a glorious day, and we took a sudden -determination to go at once to Tokio, a short hour's journey. We found, -on arriving at the station, our luggage surrounded by a group of the -smallest of porters in neat blue uniforms, and caps with yellow bands, -dubiously surveying my large basket, which was ultimately transported -by the help of all. The railways in Japan were built by English -engineers, and worked by them, until the Japanese learnt to do it for -themselves. They are perfectly English, and the names of stations, -directions, even the mile posts are written in both languages. The -fares are extraordinarily cheap, and the third-class crowded, whilst -the one first-class carriage on each train is almost exclusively used -by Europeans. There are newspapers in the waiting-rooms; they have the -French system of locking you in the latter until shortly before the -arrival of the train; and the American check system for luggage. There -was a funny little toy train waiting for us on the very narrow gauge, -drawn by a tiny black and yellow engine. The long carriages with their -seats lengthways have as many as twenty-two windows, and they are lined -with Lincrusta-Walton paper. There is a wooden tray with a tea-pot -filled with hot water, and glasses for the tea, which the Japanese are -always drinking. When we stop at the stations there is such a cheerful -chorus of clicking high-heeled clogs, as the men and the little ladies, -with their smiling brown babies on their bent backs, tippet and shuffle -along. - -The short run between Tokio and Yokohama is perfectly flat, with -nothing but rice fields, or if there is a little eminence it is crowned -by the dwarf forestry, which is the peculiar feature of Japanese -scenery. - -Tokio or Tokyo, is the official capital of Japan. It is the old Yedo -of our schoolroom geography. The Minister of Foreign Affairs had sent -his secretary to meet us at the station, with a carriage similar to an -English victoria, drawn by pretty thick-set black Japanese ponies, and -with the Indian custom of a running sayce, who jumps off and clears the -way at the corners. To the right of the broad canal, along which we are -driving, we see a grand structure, which we suppose to be an official -building at least, and are surprised when we are told that it is the -Imperial Hotel. It is as palatial inside, with its broad staircase -and passages, and marble dining hall, and its crowds of obsequious -servants, who, hands on knees, slide down in deep bows at every corner, -and that drawing in of the breath like a gentle gasp, which in Japan is -a sign of great respect. The government have shown much enterprise in -assisting to build several of these large hotels by grants of lands and -subsidies, thus encouraging foreign travellers to come and stay. They -serve also as places where imperial guests, like the Duke and Duchess -of Connaught (who stayed here), and the Czarewitch, can be entertained, -as the palaces, owing to their complete absence of furniture, according -to the custom of the country, cannot be rendered habitable for the -reception of Europeans. - -Tokio, beautiful Tokio, with its multitudinous little brown-eaved -houses, crowded in lowly company together, its broad moats, with the -green water, over which the mists gather at night and disperse in the -early morning sun, its great walls, formed of blocks of stone piled up -obliquely without the aid of mortar that guard the Shogun's Castle, -and the pale-blue grey skies, with the clear bright atmosphere, which -lends such a charm and softness to the picturesque scenes around. The -charm of Tokio is undefinable. It is so subtle as only to be felt. But -wherever you go, you will be always coming back to those miles of solid -masonry and those moats with their grassy banks, with a single row of -twisted dragon-shaped fir trees at the top--trees, that like all else -in Japan, are dwarfed, and where perhaps two or three solemn rooks will -perch and caw hoarsely, or even a red-legged stork, with outstretched -wings, will flap idly across. - -I shall never forget the delight of our first drive in Tokio. It was -enough to be drawn swiftly and silently along in the midst of those -broad white roads, shaded by avenues of graceful willows, and see all -the strangely fascinating life of every-day Japan passing swiftly by, -without going to see anything in particular. For the motion of these -jinrikishas, the only practicable mode of progression in Japan, is -delightfully easy and pleasant. The coolies in their dark blue cotton -breeches and loose jacket and large mushroom-shaped hats, go at an -easy trot of six miles an hour, and they will do forty miles in one -day. This patient, toiling, perspiring race never seem to tire, and -their bare brown legs, with their large muscular development, with -sinews and veins standing out, and their high regular action, trot as -steadily as the rough docile ponies. Their feet are bare, or covered -with a straw sandal, kept on by a ribbon passed round the great toe. -We see many shops hung with hundreds of these sandals. Their cost is -infinitesimally small, but the roads are strewn with cast-off ones, for -they only last for a few journeys. - -We are driving along by the Inner Moat; for there are three separate -moats surrounding the Castle, and then crossing over a bridge we pass -under an ancient stone gateway, and find ourselves, between this and -another one, equally massive and with iron-plated doors studded with -nails. We are shut in by these curious walls of obsolete masonry. Huge -blocks of granite are piled up obliquely, one resting on the other for -support, without being filled in by earth or mortar. They are broader -at the base, slope inwards, and stand by their own weight. Again -and again we came upon these Titanic walls in the ancient buildings -of Japan, and never ceased wondering how they were first placed in -position and then held so, for centuries. Passing through the second -archway, we are in a great open space, and above us are the white walls -and brown crinkled roofs of the Mikado's palace. There is the grey -stone bridge lighted by clusters of electric lamps, across which the -121st Mikado and the successor of the Shoguns passes to the palace, -around which linger mysteries leaving the imagination free to picture -the interior, for it is invisible to everyone. The authors of that -delightful "Social Departure," it is true, saw it, but they dare not -record how the permission was obtained. It is said that Mr. Liberty -was the last to see this enchanted abode, but then his visit was from -a professional view, to give his opinion on the decorations, as one of -the great æsthetic decorators of the day. - -The office of the Imperial Household, whither we were bound to call -on Monsieur Nagasaki, the Emperor's Master of the Ceremonies, lies -under the Imperial Palace. The sentry at the gateway stopped us, but -after some parleying we were allowed to proceed on foot, as none but -titled Japanese are allowed to pass in a jinrikisha. The officer who -accompanied us was typical of the politeness which is the pleasantest -feature of the Japanese, and requested a souvenir of our visit in a -visiting card. In coming away we passed the Minister of Justice in a -victoria, with a jinrikisha roped behind, containing his detective. - -Tokio is one of the ten largest cities in the world, and with its -population of 1,400,000 spread out over an extended area, the distances -are great. It has tramways, drawn by the diminutive ponies, and -an ear-piercing horn heralds an antique omnibus in the principal -thoroughfares. It has electric light, gas, and telephones. Nor is it -wanting in handsome public buildings and offices like the Admiralty, -the Ministry for Foreign and Home Affairs. The Houses of Parliament are -a skeleton of poles, for, just completed last year, they were burnt -down immediately and are now rebuilding. We are passing an enclosure -with rows of white-washed buildings, little barracks, suited to the -little soldiers we see marching bravely along in the streets, and -crowned with the sixteen-petalled chrysanthemum, the royal insignia, -which is everywhere and on everything. - -Before the afternoon light fails we visit the temples at Shiba Park, -the park being a grove of trees under which picturesque groups of -children and nurses wander, or ladies stroll about, with their -jinrikishas following them. - -The entrance to this succession of mortuary chapels, where the remains -of the 7th and 9th Shoguns are buried, is by a gorgeous gate of red -and green and gold--a gate such as we grew to be familiar with, in -the ceaseless succession of temples in Japan, for all these Buddhist -shrines have a wearisome sameness in common, however beautiful they -may individually be. There is a quiet court inside, filled with rows -of stone pillars, with a circular pagoda with open holes at the top. -They are lanterns offered as a mark of respect by the Daimyos or great -nobles to their master. Every August, from the 12th to the 16th, lights -are kept burning there to entice the spirits to return during their -time of wandering, and not to journey by mistake to hell. Another stone -court with more lanterns, and a pagoda-erection to a Minister of War, -whither, should a war occur, they hope his spirit would return to watch -over it and bring them luck. - -We approach the Temple, with its black roof of crenellated copper, -and the overhanging eaves, from each up-curved point of which hangs a -tinkling bronze bell, and we can see that this sombre outside is only -a wooden shell to preserve the gilding and brilliant colours of the -exterior. - -Our feet are bound up in cotton shoes, and we enter by a side door -into an exquisite little sanctum, where the roof is all of lacquer, -inlaid with mother-of-pearl, and the panels on the walls are carved -in marvellous _repoussé_ work, with flowers and animals. A softened -light comes through the open door, and the gold and red and blue and -green, melt into a harmony of rich colouring, whilst the petal of each -flower, the stalk of every leaf, the plumage on the wings of the birds, -stand out in startling relief; and these panels represent storks, with -their long red legs, doves with their silver-grey plumage, parrots -with red and green tails, and peacocks with fan-spread tails. Or there -are such flowers as the sacred lotus, the emblem of Buddhism, the -chrysanthemum and the pink peony. One panel of exceptional beauty, is -an exquisite spray of tiger lilies, carved in high relief. Tradition -says that this was so greatly esteemed by the Shogun, and that the two -nails we see were used to hang a cover over it, that no one should see -it but himself. The priest throws open the golden trellis-work of a -shrine, and shows us three memorial tablets with the Shogun's names -inscribed on them. Around it there is a collection of china vases, -paper lanterns, and lacquer stands. Passing behind the screen formed -of bamboo bound with silken cords, we come to a square room covered as -usual with matting, and with the same florid decoration, where there -is a row of lacquer boxes each tied up with a cord. They contain the -Buddhist books, and are used for the daily prayers. - -Through a grove of glossy-leaved camellias we pass, and mount up some -flights of ancient steps to another temple. This is the Praying Room -in front of the Shogun's Tomb, and is only entered by the Mikado and -Archbishop, when they come to worship the great departed on the day -of his decease. We pass behind this, and ascend yet more moss-grown -steps, to the tomb of the Great Shogun, which is surmounted by a -bronze urn, and enclosed within stone parapets and iron railings. The -tomb bears the three-leaved asarum, which is the crest of the House, -and is seen on many buildings of the date of that dynasty. Since the -fall of the Shoguns--or military usurpers of executive power--and -the re-establishment to the Imperial City of the present dynasty of -Mikados, it has been replaced by the Imperial Chrysanthemum. All is so -quiet and solemn here, and the memorial above the tomb is so simple, as -compared with the magnificence that goes before, that as Mitford says, -"The sermon may have been preached by design, or it may have been by -accident, but the lesson is there." The 9th, 12th and 14th Shoguns are -buried at Shiba, and their three temples, their three praying rooms, -and their three bronze urns, stand in precisely similar lines with the -one we are at present by. - -In the evening we take jinrikishas and go into the native quarters. -If Tokio is charming in daylight, it is simply a fairyland at night. -There are no lamps, save for a few electric beacons, that send out -their far-reaching flashes over all the city, but the streets are -lighted by innumerable pendulous drops of light, that dance and quiver -and dart about, and cross and disappear quickly round corners. They -are the paper lanterns which hang from the shafts of hundreds of -jinrikishas, or are carried by pedestrians, for everyone in Japan -carries his own lantern after dark; and some are pale pink and others -red or blue. Now their soft light is reflected on the waters of the -moat, or glides quickly and noiselessly round the stone ramparts and -reappears like glow-worms on the other side. Now we pass the crimson -light streaming out of the little box-like police station, or the -barrow of the street vendor with the bulb of light shining mysteriously -from behind his hanging curtains. Soft even light falls across the -street from the windows of opaque paper, and we can trace the shadows -crossing them. Then as we stealthily fly past, we see the dark interior -of a shop lighted by a single lamp, under which squats a Rembrandt-like -figure, intently working, for in these busy human hives late at night -and early morning sees them still at work, or again the leaping flames -of fire in the centre of the floor light up a family group. Then there -is the street vendor, with his flaring torches, and his wares spread -out against a wall. There is a festival held in some particular street, -lighted with lunging designs of crimson paper lanterns, slung from -bamboo poles, to the god of writing. Then as we return home through -the dark quiet alleys, we hear the frequent and melancholy sound of -the bamboo flute of the blind shampooer, as he feels his way, stick in -hand, along the street. He sounds but two notes, but they have the wail -of a world of sorrow in them, that goes to the heart. - -Early the next morning we climbed up some steps and passed into the -lovely groves of Ueno Park. The evergreen trees are still here, but -the avenue of cherry trees is bare and leafless, "which presents a -uniquely beautiful sight during the blossom season, when the air seems -to be filled with pink clouds," and you can scarcely pass under the -trees for the showers of falling blossoms. A little farther on there -is a sheet of water covered with flat green leaves, which three weeks -ago was a mass of pink and white lotus bloom. The blossoming of the -cherry, plum, lotus or chrysanthemum are looked upon by the Japanese as -national festivals. In fact they are their only holidays, for they have -no Sunday or day of rest. The Japanese may be said to have little or no -religion. The upper classes never worship at all, and the lower orders -are either Buddhists or Shintoists (Shintoism being the worship of many -gods), but they practically only go to the temples to offer prayers, -accompanied by money to the gods, if they have any special request to -make, such as for a good harvest, or recovery from sickness. - -There are many little tea-houses at Ueno Park, and waiting damsels -smile in a friendly manner and beckon us in, but we cross the road -and leave this pleasant corner of the park, where the simple people -come to drink tea and amuse themselves, and pass under one of those -solemn archways hewn out of single blocks of stone, a torii or bird's -rest. They are such grand yet simple monuments of a dead past, and are -found at the entrance to all the temples in Japan. We wander up the -stone-paved avenue, through the solemn illness of the great cryptomeria -avenue, towards the Buddhist Temple at the end. This Temple, with its -neighbouring pagoda, is more than usually brilliant, being recently -restored, but the charm lies in its surroundings--in the quiet fir -groves, and the clumps of camellia trees, in the pink blossoms of the -monkey tree, and the solemn cawing of the rooks, in the click-click of -the wooden sandals of the dear little waddling ladies as they saunter -along the pavement, with their close-shaven children by their sides, -so exactly like the Japanese dolls we know at home. But in the centre -of this peaceful scene is a switchback railway, whose noisy clatter -profanes the stillness, but of which the Japanese are truly proud. We -pass a fortune stone. It is old and chipped, covered with hieroglyphics -and bespattered with dirty pellets of paper, which are chewed first -into a pulp and then thrown at it. If they adhere, it is considered a -lucky omen. - -After quickly passing through the Museum, a white Moorish building -erected for the Exhibition, and which is as dull as museums usually -are, we had one of those fascinating drives through the streets to the -shop of the most celebrated cloisonné maker in Japan, and by special -appointment to the Mikado. There was nothing exposed in the shop -front, but leading us to the inmost recesses at the back, one by one -with reverent care, each article was produced from its wooden case and -foldings of crêpe and cotton wool, and placed with justifiable pride -before us, for this prince of designers, Namikawa, is the greatest -living artist in Japan, and exists only for the production of the -masterpieces of his art. The exceeding tenderness of the pale grey, -darkening into lilac, forming the background for a cock whose plumage, -faithfully delineated, is shown by the outline of every feather, the -rose pink, the translucent yellow--it is impossible to convey the -delicate tones of colour, or the life-like drawing of his plaques and -vases. - -We subsequently saw the many processes through which cloisonné passes, -and it is not until you have seen the skill and delicate workmanship -required, that you really begin to appreciate cloisonné. And the -same may be said about lacquer, which requires knowing to be fully -understood. First the vase must be fashioned in copper, then the -designer must delineate from memory some intricate design of flowers -or birds or landscape. This again has to be reproduced in tiny pieces -of wire, pinched and twisted deftly into shape and soldered on to the -copper. The interstices of the wire are filled in with the brilliant -colours that we see in the saucers by the side of the workers, and the -mixing of these is the secret which ensures success. Five times the -colours are "filled," and five times burnt in the kilns, and then the -polisher with his different coarsenesses of stones polishes it into a -burnished and chaste work of art. - -Apart from temples, there is not much to see at Tokio, but it is the -streets which fascinate you so completely, that waking and sleeping -you dream of these, and you want to be always out and amongst the -bright life that flows through them. To get any idea of Japan you -must always remember that everything is so ridiculously small. Life -here is in miniature. Everything is lilliputian; beginning with the -little houses, continuing with the little men and women and their tiny -children, and ending with the little ponies, for there are no horses -in Japan. And so to imagine a Japanese street, you must picture to -yourself rows of little brown houses, many of only one storey, with -large overhanging eaves. The interior is wide open and only raised one -step from the street, and you look across the brightly burnished floor -through the opening of the paper sliding screens, which are thrown -back in the daytime, and catch pretty glimpses of the home life in the -back yard. Many of the shops are hung with funereal-looking purple and -black hangings, inscribed with white hieroglyphics giving the names -and nature of their wares. You recognize the chemist's shop by the -gold tablets setting forth the details of the pharmacopœia within. -There are barbers' shops, with a half-shaven customer with upturned -chin seated in the chair; drapers' with samples of bright-coloured -stuffs hung round a revolving wheel outside; toy-shops where are sold -those paper kites and tiniest of shuttlecocks, or hobgoblin horses and -animals of impossible shape and size, with which the children play in -the street. There are others hung with nothing but strings of straw -sandals, or wooden clogs; grain shops where the clean white green and -red seeds are sorted into baskets of samples. Here is one for the -sale of saké, the brandy of Japan, piled up with huge barrels, and -with those tapering blue and white bottles which we are accustomed to -use for flower-vases, but which are really manufactured to hold this -popular beverage. And then the china shops; they are an incessant -delight, with their hundreds of dear little common blue and white rice -bowls, their artistic tea-pots of pale green ware with a spray of apple -blossom, their hibachis, or china flower-pots of deep blue, green or -bronze ware, which are used for the hot ashes to light the pipe with, -and are found on the floor of all tea-houses. Again, we must look at -this stationer's, where that soft crinkled tissue paper is sold, and -the brushes with which the Japanese write so swiftly and deftly, that -the ink is absorbed without blotting into the paper. In Japan they do -everything upside down. The horses stand with their tails in their -mangers and their heads where their tails should be. Locks revolve -contrariwise, and the carpenters plane towards, instead of away from -the person. So with writing; they write from the bottom of the page to -the top, and from right to left, and the number of their characters -is appalling. You must know from 3000 to 4000 characters to write -Japanese at all, and an educated man will require some 6000; and the -disappointing thing is that when a foreigner has mastered this, the -literature opened up to him offers no reward for his labour, as it -practically does not as yet exist. - -See this fruit shop, where bunches of pale grey-green water-grapes, -brown pears, and plentiful supplies of green figs are spread temptingly -out, interspersed with bunches of those luscious orange persimmons -that melt in the mouth, and taste like a ripe apricot; this umbrella -emporium, where paper umbrellas, oiled to make them waterproof, are -open inviting inspection; a tea-shop, where the tea is kept in gigantic -jars striped purple and green; a greengrocer's, with oblong sweet -potatoes in their pink skins, and turnips of abnormal length; a basket -shop, where bamboo baskets of every shape and size are to be had; -or a fishmonger's, where the delicate pink and rainbow scaled fish, -are exposed daintily for sale on bright blue and green china dishes. -Nor must I forget the confectioners' shops, where from a tiny oven -heated by charcoal, we see the most attractive little pink, green, -chocolate and white sugared cakes turned out and placed in alternate -rows on trays. It is most amusing to see the extreme economy of the -heating arrangements. Four tiny pieces of charcoal, turned over and -husbanded together by a pair of iron tongs, suffice to cook a meal. -The Government do not allow shops to sell European and Japanese goods -together, so that now and again you pass one full of Manchester -atrocities, gaudy stuffs, ill-shaped English umbrellas, cheap lamps, -boots, hats, and underclothing, which you turn away from, to seek once -more the tasteful display of the native stores. - -[Illustration: "A LITTLE MOTHER."] - -And what a medley of scenes there are, and what a flow of life -confined in these narrow streets with their one-storeyed houses. -Coolies harnessed by ropes to drays full of rice, answering one another -with their musical patient cry of Huydah-Houdah; itinerant vendors with -bamboo poles slung across the shoulder, and suspended trays filled with -every imaginable variety of article; Buddhist priests with their shaven -heads, and white dresses with flowing sleeves, covered with black crêpe. - -Mingling with the crowd of dear little men and women in their graceful -flapping kimonos, are the little girl "mothers," who at the age of -ten bend their backs and have a baby brother or sister tied on. Happy -babies they are, brown and contented, as are their scantily-clothed -kindred, who obey an instinct of nature in making mud pies and dust -castles by the roadside. Here is a closed van on wheels, painted black, -being drawn by policemen. It is a "Maria" with a prisoner peering out -between the bars. - -Every now and again we meet a funeral. The coffin is a square deal -box, slung on bamboo poles, for the deceased has been placed in it in a -sitting posture with the knees up to the chin. It is only another form -of the economy of material, that forms such an especial feature in all -things Japanese. However, this people understood long before we did, -the use of lovely wreaths of coloured flowers, to mitigate the gloom -of mourning, and the coffin is hung with them. Ancestor-worship takes -a prominent part in Japanese religion, and now we understand at last -the use of those elaborate gold and lacquer cabinets, with outer and -inner folding doors, that you so often see in England. These cabinets -are intended as the shrines where the little golden memorial tablets, -in the form of small gravestones, and engraved with the name of the -deceased, are kept at home. The deceased is always given a posthumous -name, as, not believing in the immortality of the soul, but rather in -its transmigration into an animal, they say that he has ceased to exist -altogether, and has changed his state and lives under a new name. These -memorial cabinets are found in all the houses of the upper classes. - -The pictures that we know of these little Japanese ladies are the -most faithful reproductions. Wrapped tightly round in their kimonos, -with the bunch of the obi formed by its folding over at the back, -their figures take the graceful bend and curve we see pourtrayed. The -loose flowing sleeves, and the soft folds around the neck, and open -at the throat, are so pretty. Their underclothing consists of several -loose garments of crêpe, which is the material exclusively used by the -upper classes, and their hips are so tightly bound that no European -woman could stand it. They treat their hips as we do our waists, their -object being to be perfectly straight. When this was explained to me, -I understood how it was that an extra breadth is put into the kimonos -bought by Europeans. It is curious that, though the Japanese bathe so -frequently, they are not particular as to changing their underclothing. -The women wear white stockings with a pocket for the great toe, and -"getas" formed of a sole of wood, perched on two high clogs of the -same, and kept on by a leash. Thus, when they enter a house, they leave -their clogs at the door, and go about on the spotless matting in their -stockings. As they sit and eat off the floors, they cannot allow the -dirt of outside boots to be brought in, and all Japanese houses are -scrupulously clean. - -The kimonos of ladies are made in delicate quiet-toned stuffs of pale -grey or fawn colour; but simple as some of them appear, the stuffs of -which they are made are so costly that, even unembroidered, they will -cost as much as 300 dollars. And then their obis, those broad sashes -of the richest brocades and satins--on them they lavish all their -pride and money, and they often descend as heirlooms in a family. The -dressing of their hair is one long-continued source of admiration; it -is such black glossy hair, and the coils are so immaculately smooth. -There are but two styles of headdress for the whole country--one for -the married ladies, and one for the single; and so you can always -distinguish their state in life at a glance. The married women have it -dressed in a single extended roll, with inlaid combs and coral-headed -pins placed round; whilst the unmarried ladies wear their hair divided -by a silk or gauze ribbon into two flat coils placed on either side of -the head, and have still more decoration in the way of glass bead pins. -And as to the little girls, they are the counterpart of their mothers, -and from the earliest ages wear theirs in a similar manner. It used -to be the custom for married women to have their teeth blackened, to -prevent their receiving admiration from men other than their husbands; -but this is dying out, and you now only see old married women in -country districts following this obsolete fashion. No Japanese woman -ever walks. She shuffles, she scuffles, she tippets along, balancing on -her high-heeled getas; but step out the necessary stride for a walk, -no, they cannot do that, for their kimonos are so narrow that they -cannot move otherwise than with their knees knocking together. They are -not pretty, these meek, gentle-looking, brown-skinned creatures, yet -their sweet deprecating manners are very attractive. They are excellent -mothers; more excellent wives, in their complete subjection and utter -want of initiative. The sum total of their education is implicit -reverence and obedience, first to parents, subsequently to husbands; -and at the Peeress' school at Tokio, we are told that they are so -afraid that the modern education given there to the daughters of the -nobles will militate against this ideal, that particular lectures are -given on the subject. - -The men, so long as they wear the native dress, are dark, -pleasant-looking little men; but when you see them, as you frequently -do now, with a kimono surmounted by a brown or black pot-hat, a solar -topee, or even a tweed stalking-cap, they are positively evil and -unpleasant to look at. - -Viscount Okabé, so long Minister in London, took us for a drive in the -afternoon, and then we had time, before a pleasant dinner with Mr. and -Mrs. Fraser at the British Legation, to go to the Theatre. - -The corridor is covered with piles of sandles and umbrellas, whilst -from the adjoining kitchens come savoury and nauseous smells. The floor -of the Theatre slopes upwards from the stage, and is divided into -square compartments, neatly matted, and intended for family boxes. The -galleries are divided in the same way. And here groups of ladies and -gentlemen are encamped for the whole day, for a Japanese theatre begins -at 9 a.m. and lasts for ten hours; nor is this all, for the same piece -may be continued from day to day, and last for six weeks. It is now -five in the afternoon, and yet the audience maintain a deep interest -and breathless gaze on the stage. - -This is the outline of the story. The lank, die-away lady we see -trailing across the stage has retired to a wood, with a rill of crystal -water, to live in a temple, there, to mourn the death of her father -in a war. The young man who was (unknown to her) his murderer, passes -casually along and she falls in love with him. This love-making, in -the drawling nasal accents, and its tediously slow movements, is most -unreal, and as they drink the loving cup of saké together, the father's -disapproving spirit, in a rushing flame of fire, blazes up from the -temple. Darkness drowns the applause, and warriors rush on the scene -and begin to fight the maiden, who mesmerizes them, until one by one -they fall at her feet. - -The orchestra is represented by five musicians, perched up on a rock. I -may say at once that, artistic as is the nature of the Japanese, their -idea of music is absolutely _nil_. It consists of a series of grunts -and groans, or of nasal notes in a bass key, or of falsetto in a high -one. - -But the interest lies to us in the audience, who, in the interval of -twenty minutes, eat their evening meal. Some have brought their food -with them, and nearly all their own china tea-pots, for a constant -supply of tea. Others buy theirs, and are provided with a succession -of little wooden bowls piled on each other, and for which they have to -pay the usual theatre price of ten cents, or double the ordinary one. -In each box there is a hibachi, or china bowl full of hot ashes, where -they light their pipes, for men and women are continually smoking, and -their pipes have the smallest bowl, the size of a thimble--two whiffs -and it is empty again; but it is sufficient for their modest wants. - -_September 26th._--I am writing in the most delightful real Japanese -house, far away in the midst of these beautiful mountains of Nikko. - -The thin wooden frame of the house is covered with luminous parchment -paper, and these are the walls that divide us from the outside world. -They are not permanent ones, for they slide back one behind the other, -a succession of paper screens, until the house is open to the street -and there is only the shell of a habitation left in the roof, and one -paper wall behind. The second-floor storey (if there is one) is marked -by a long balcony running completely round, and here in cupboards at -either end are kept the wooden shutters that slide into grooves and -close in the balconies, in winter and at night, and give to all the -houses the dull appearance of a blank wooden wall at sundown. Inside, -the roof and floors are of white wood, and the latter is covered -with spotless matting; but I am glad to say that there are European -concessions here, in the shape of a table, chair, and washstand and -bed, on which is laid a clean starched kimono to go to the bath in. In -a Japanese house we should find no furniture at all. Their rooms are -absolutely bare; they eat, sit and sleep on the floor, and from out of -a cupboard in a recess will come the "futons," or thick wadded quilts, -and the square piece of wood with a hollow for the neck, where a soft -wad of paper is inserted, and which is used for a pillow by the ladies -to save their elaborate headdress from getting deranged. As they cannot -dress their hair themselves, it is only done occasionally, and must -thus be considered even when sleeping. - -The construction of these houses is so delightfully simple, for, -excepting the polished ladder which leads upstairs, there is no plan of -the rooms. They are made larger or smaller, more or less, according to -the want of the hour, by means of those successions of sliding screens, -and a little pushing and sliding will make the large room you are -using, into five or six smaller ones in a second. These tea-houses are -charming in their compact simplicity, their faultless cleanliness, and -particular neatness. - -It was at four o'clock this afternoon that we arrived at Nikko, and -drove from the station through the end of the great cryptomeria avenue, -past the village, until the jinrikisha was suddenly shot round a -corner, down a narrow passage, and stopped at the courtyard step of the -Suzuki Hotel. Here quite a little crowd of bowing attendants received -us with many deep salaams, and sucking-in of breath; one relieved me of -an umbrella, another of a cloak, and another of a book, and went before -us, encouraging us with graceful gesticulations and faces wreathed in -smiles to enter the house, impressing us in an indescribably charming -manner that we were showing them but too much honour in doing so. Of -course we drank tea--it is the first ceremony on entering any Japanese -house; and then came the second one--the solemn ceremony of the bath. - -Bathing is the passion and pastime of the Japanese, and they bathe -as often as two or three times a day. In all towns there are public -baths, where, in the evening, the population meet to gossip and take a -bath for the modest price of two cents. Not long ago men and women in -a state of nature bathed together, but Government has forbidden this -now. However, we visited one where a wall separated the bath, but still -left the entrance to both open to the public view. In villages there -will be a tub or barrel outside every door, and one evening we saw a -man preparing his bath, with a fire kindling under the zinc bottom of -his tub. They take their baths as hot as 110° Fahrenheit, and for some -unexplained reason foreigners find that cold or lukewarm baths are -unsuited to the climate, and adopt the native temperature. The rule at -hotels is that the first arrival is entitled to the first use of the -bath. - -To take up the thread of the story, we left Tokio at eleven this -morning, the Foreign Office sending a carriage to take us to Ueno -station. - -Through groves of cryptomeria, maple, fir, willow, wild cherry and -Spanish chestnuts we travel. Past great clumps of bamboo, which to see -only is to be able to picture the mighty growth of their graceful, -feathery foliage; by picturesque villages, with their angular brown -thatched roofs crowding low down over their mud-wattled walls, nestling -amongst banyon groves interspersed with persimmon trees, bare of leaves -but laden with bunches of golden fruit. Then we emerge on to the open -country, where the cultivation is so exquisitely neat that it resembles -a succession of kitchen gardens. There are no hedges, and no grass, but -the whole land is taken up by small patches of onions, turnips, maize, -millet, sweet potatoes, and the broad caladium-like leaf of another -species of potatoes, whose English equivalent to the Japanese name I -failed to discover. These alternate with rice fields, where the bright -yellow tells of the ripening and bursting of the grain. The soil is -rich and black, and labour is done by hand-spade, but the absence of -pasture strikes us. However, there are few cows or oxen, and no sheep, -numberless experiments failing to rear them; and the ponies live on -chopped straw, beans and the refuse of grain. - -[Illustration: THE RED LACQUER BRIDGE, NIKKO.] - -An hour before reaching Nikko we pass into the mountains. It is such a -picturesque, well-wooded range, this Nikko chain of mountains, and they -all bear that peculiar Japanese characteristic of rising straight out -of the plain, ending with sharp three-sided cones, and like all else in -this country, though lofty, they are on a small scale, toy mountains -that seem to fit in with the miniature picture. - -We had time after our arrival at Nikko, and before dusk, to pass -through the village, across the wonderful red lacquer bridge, and -following a grass path to come to a Waterfall. On the rock opposite is -inscribed the word Hammôn, and the legend goes, that as no one could, -as we see, possibly cross the fall to write it, an artist threw his pen -at the rock and it inscribed this Sanskrit word. And now in the growing -twilight we pass along under the shadow of a row of mutilated grey -idols, each squatted on his pedestal with crossed hands, looking over -the stream. I counted 120 figures, but no two people have ever been -known to make the same number. At the head of this solemn avenue of -gods there is a larger one facing the others. They are supposed to be -the Judges before whom the spirits of the departed pass, and are judged -whether they shall go to heaven or hell; and hence they are covered -with many paper labels, the prayers of relatives for the deceased, that -grace may be granted them by the gods. It is a solemn tribunal, with -its presiding judge, and each face is different in expression, and -yet they are such mobile, expressionless faces, as if to represent a -dispassionate and unbiassed judgment. - -After dinner we adjourned into an empty room, when a man appeared -with a card, and before we could look round the whole room was full -of merchants producing out of their cotton bundles, beautiful carved -ivories, bronzes, silver, china, lacquer, and furs, for Nikko produces -excellent ones. They are so persuasive, and ingratiate their wares all -round into your hands, that it is with difficulty we escape; and making -our airy chambers a little less so by having the shutters run out of -their cupboard, we are soothed to sleep by the wailing sounds of the -samisen, that comes from the brightly-lighted little tea-house on the -opposite hill. - -It is amusing the next morning to dress with the wall of the room -thrown back, and to hear the constant shuffle of sandals, or the -clatter of the clogs as these little men and women in their flapping -draperies cross the yard; and this courtyard is so characteristic. It -is but a few square feet in dimensions, yet there is a dragon-shaped -fir-tree in the centre, whose outstretched arms are supported by bamboo -poles, which form a little arbour with a seat in it; then there is a -stone lantern and a bronze stork, a lamp-post and a wandering paved -pathway, that gives a great idea of distance. - -We go directly after breakfast to the Temples to see the tombs of -the Shoguns. They are three hundred years old, and as beautiful as -carving, colour and design can make them. We ascend up a winding -flight of stone steps through the gloom of a magnificent avenue of -cryptomerias. They are tremendously tall, impressive trees, with -their moss-grown trunks and stems, and these steps wind through their -midst, a fit leading up to the great mausoleums. Passing the courts -of a monastery, we are first shown a Buddhist temple where, hidden -behind the silk-bound bamboo blinds, there are three colossal gold -Buddhas seated cross-legged on lotus leaves. In the mysterious gloom, -they look solemnly and indifferently into space. On the platform by -this temple there is suspended a big bronze bell, which is sounded by -a pole propelled against the side. As we stand there it gives forth -its sonorous musical toll, and at every hour of the day its sweet and -solemn note echoes over the valley. Then, seated in a semicircle, the -priests of Buddha begin to chant the morning orisons, droning in a -nasal tone, and with the accompanying tom-tom of a drum. We leave them -to pass on to the tomb of the great warrior Shogun, Yeyásu. - -The wide road, bordered by those walls of mortarless blocks of -stone, leads up to the flight of steps and an elaborate Sammon or -gateway, the entrance to the first temple. There are a number of -wooden tablets outside, on which are inscribed the names of the -subscribers to the fabric of the temple. The inner court is full of -interest, for you must imagine that all the buildings it contains are -covered with decorations and paintings. One of the storehouses where -pictures, furniture, and other articles belonging to Yeyásu are kept, -has carvings in relief of elephants, in which the joints of the hind -legs are turned in the wrong direction. There is the tree which the -Shogun carried about in his palanquin with him when it was still small -enough to travel in a flowerpot, and the stable for the sacred white -pony, kept for the use of the god; over which is a very clever group of -three monkeys, representing the three countries of India, China, and -Japan. One monkey shows he is blind by covering his eyes with his hand, -another deaf by stopping his ears, and a third dumb by closing his -mouth. The one signifies that you must see no evil; the other that you -must hear no evil; the last that you must speak no evil. - -[Illustration: PAGODA OF THE TEMPLE AT NIKKO.] - -The water cistern, hung round as is usual in these temples with -coloured rags, is formed of a single block of granite, so evenly cut -that the water flowing over it is a glassy, imperceptible surface. -Next to it is a library, where through the grating we see a revolving -book-case made of lacquer with gilt columns, containing a complete -collection of the Buddhist scriptures. - -And now we come to the exquisitely beautiful gate of the Yomeimon, -with its graceful arabesques founded upon the peony pattern, its -niches and columns, its golden clawed dragons and groups of Chinese -sages, which leads into the inner court of the temple. Surrounded by -open trellis-work screens, we pass up several flights of steps, and -take off our boots by the huge bronze money-box waiting for offerings. -The interior is filled with a dim light, but you are in the midst of -a place so rich in subdued soft colour, so embroidered in elaborate -designs and harmonizing tones, that it is some minutes before you can -at all appreciate the full beauty. The ceiling is formed of squares -divided by ribs of black lacquer and enamelled in peacock blue and -green; there are gilt carved screens, where perch birds of paradise, -doves, parrots, ducks, peacocks; others where the asarum or peony, the -royal flower, the lily, and the lotus, are carved in high relief. And -the ante-chambers on either side are equally perfect; in one there is a -carved and painted ceiling with an angel surrounded by a chrysanthemum, -and some boldly executed eagles; in another, pictures of unicorns on a -gold ground, and some phœnixes. - -[Illustration: Mausoleum of Yeyásu.] - -In an adjoining temple a woman in scarlet and white draperies -performed a sacred dance. It is a slow and graceful movement; the bells -in her hand keep rhythmical time, while she amuses and charms away the -evil spirit from the dead Shogun. We have now a long pilgrimage to -perform, up to the platform on high, where rests the body of Yeyásu. -The ancient stone stairs, the balustrade and columns, are clothed -in the most vivid green moss, whilst the cryptomerias form a dark -archway above. There is complete silence around. The place is damp and -deserted. We might, from their moss-grown appearance, be the first to -tread these steps for a thousand years, and slowly mounting them, we -feel we are breaking the spell that has hung over them, as we find -ourselves on the stone terrace at the top. Here there is a praying -temple, and we pass round to the tomb at the back. It is a simple -bronze urn, shaped like a small pagoda, with a stone table in front, on -which is placed a bronze stork with a candle in its mouth, an incense -burner, and a vase of artificial lotus flowers. Such is the end of all -greatness. - -Returning home, we took jinrikishas for the mountain expedition to -Lake Chữzenji. For some miles we travel by the side of the river's -bed and between the mountains, meeting many pack-ponies laden with -merchandise, shod like the men with straw sandals. It looks rainy, and -the men have donned their waterproof coats, and these consist of a -straw mantle formed like a thatch; when you see a fisherman standing -in the water with his legs immersed, and only this thatch above, it -produces the most comical effect of a floating haystack. As we begin -climbing the mountain road, we see many strange and beautiful new -shrubs, flowers, and trailing creepers growing amongst the rocks. Soon -a tea-house comes in sight, with the front entirely open, and pretty -sliding screens of blue paper. Cushions are placed on the floor and -tea brought by a welcome-smiling damsel. It is pale, straw-coloured -tea made from the young undried shoot of the tea-plant, and it is not -allowed to infuse, but is poured straight into the tiny handleless -cups, with two or three leaves at the bottom, and served on a lacquer -tray with pink and white sweetmeats. But how artistic is the design -on the common bronze kettle hanging over the open fire in the centre -of the room, and kept always boiling for tea to be quickly made; how -delicate the pale blue colour of the thin eggshell cups, with the spray -of cherry blossom. It is one of the many charms of Japan, that art is -brought to use in all the appurtenances of daily life. - -The ascent to Chữzenji, right into the heart of the mountains, is -perfectly lovely. I have never seen grander or more charming scenery. -When we rest for a minute at one of the many tea-houses, there is such -a splendid view of two cascades flowing down a rocky precipice. It -is the meeting-place of several valleys, and the joining of several -mountain spurs, and there is an open park-like space, which looks so -green and smiling amid these rugged fastnesses. There is a movement -in those bushes in the valley! It is a troop of monkeys jumping from -branch to branch; for Japan is a strange mixture of tropical and hardy -growths. You find the flowers and plants of north latitudes growing -beside the palms and fruits of the tropics. The ascent becomes more -and more trying, though this good, new road was hurried over, to be -finished for the visit of the Czarewitch last year, which never took -place, owing to his attempted assassination by a fanatic near Kyoto. - -Clouds came down as we reached the pretty fall at the summit, so we -only heard its roar, dulled by the thick mist; but they cleared away -again, as we came to the shores of the lake, 4375 feet above the sea. -The deserted houses in the village are used by the pilgrims who come -here in August. We rested on the balcony of a tea-house overhanging the -lake, and then the descent was accomplished in one unbroken run, one -coolie acting as a drag behind, whilst the other in the shafts steadied -the jinrikisha round the sharp curves. - -_September 28th._--We spent a long morning amongst the Tombs again, -and we shall carry away with us such a vision of picturesquely pointed -black roofs, outlined in gold and red, and graceful bamboo groves, of -moss-grown flights of steps under the shadow of stately avenues of -cryptomerias, of ancient stone walls with a vista leading to massive -torii. We shall dream of the many solemn rows of stone lanterns, of -gateways bright with rainbow hues and guarded by dragon monsters, of -the bronze urns hidden away up on those quiet nooks in the mountains, -and above all of the enchanted atmosphere, the deep stillness, the -solemn peace that rests over these shrines of the dead. - -We waited on the steps of the temple to hear the big bronze bell slowly -send out its voice once more at midday across the valley, and then came -home. - -On our return journey to Tokio in the afternoon we took jinrikishas to -Imaicho, the station beyond Nikko, so as to drive five miles through -the magnificent cryptomeria grove that runs parallel with the railway. -The avenue extends for fifty miles, and was used by the envoy of the -Mikado when he sent to offer presents at the tomb of Yeyásu. These -cryptomerias are grand trees, with their stately trunks shooting up in -regular lines, whilst their long branches only grow from their summits, -and intertwining make a dim twilight below. - -On arriving at Tokio, we had a drive through the fairyland of its -glimmering streets. - - - - -CHAPTER VI. - -NEW NIPPON. - - -We were up early to get a glimpse of the Mikado as he passes to open -some new barracks. His route is lined with policemen, pigmy but -efficient guardians of the peace, with their white duck uniforms and -large swords. The morning mists are floating off the grey green moats, -as we pass into quite a new quarter of Tokio, where the noblemen have -their palaces, amid gardens green with willows and acacias. We drive -past the red brick buildings of the Peeress' School, the New Police -Buildings, and the Dowager Empress' Palace, guarded by sentries, until -we come out on the exercising ground before the barracks. - -Scattered about this plain are companies of infantry and cavalry, -mounted on small black ponies, whilst a band is being marched inside -the barrack square, where are anxious-looking groups of officers in -gala dress, ablaze with decorations of the Order of the Chrysanthemum -and Rising Sun, awaiting their sovereign's arrival. It is an apathetic -crowd, which shows no excitement as the advance guard with an outrider -in green and gold livery appears, quickly followed by two closed -barouches, the first of which is surrounded by a company of Lancers -with flying pennons. We just catch a passing glimpse of a dark man with -a beard, rather stout, and looking more than his age of forty. The band -plays the National Anthem and the gates close on the procession. - -And this is the 121st Sovereign of Japan, the first commencing his -reign in 660 B.C., as the preamble to the Constitution runs: "Having -by virtue of the glories of our ancestor ascended the throne of a -lineal succession unbroken for ages eternal." In connection with the -ancestor-worship, which is the only form of worship performed by the -upper classes, the Emperor's oath on his accession is interesting. -"We, the successor to the prosperous throne of our Predecessors, do -humbly and solemnly swear to the Imperial Founder of our House, and -to our other Imperial Ancestors, that in pursuance of a great policy, -co-extensive with the Heaven and with the Earth, we shall maintain, and -secure from decline, the ancient form of government. - -"That we have been so fortunate in our reign in keeping with the -tendency of the times as to accomplish this work, we owe to the -glorious spirits of the Imperial Founder of our House and our other -Imperial Founders. We now reverently make prayer to them and to our -Illustrious Father and implore help of their sacred spirits, and make -to them solemn oath, never at this time, nor in the future, to fail to -be an example to our subjects in the observance of the Law." - -At eleven o'clock, Mr. Nagasaki, Master of the Ceremonies in the -Imperial Household, calls for us in a royal carriage to show us the -country Palace of Sheba, whose gardens lie by the sea-shore. Side by -side in the grounds, which are approached by a very unpretentious drive -and entrance, stand the European Palace, furnished, and the Japanese -one of paper screens and matting covered floor, though we are shown -here into a carpeted room, with heliotrope satin covered chairs and -sofa. It is the custom now in Japanese houses of the upper ten, to have -one European furnished room, which is only used for the reception of -foreigners. As we take tea out of the little eggshell cups, we do not -think the garden looks large, but by the time we have followed the blue -uniformed janitor, with the eternal chrysanthemum on his cap, in his up -and down wanderings, we feel as if we had walked miles. - -The Japanese ideal of landscape gardening is to have a different -view from every point, and to this end they make a miniature park. -These knolls, mounted by wooden steps on one side and descended on the -other, represent hills; the pond crossed by a stone bridge made out -of two stones, is a lake; the island in its midst is formed of a rock -and one tree; the timber is represented by some dwarfed and distorted -fir trees, for the smaller and more spreading, the more valuable they -become. The Japanese take great pains with these deformed trees, -pruning them back, and picking out the fir needles one by one. They -give large sums of money for an old tree, and we were shown a tiny -fir in a pot over eighty years old. And yet these Japanese gardens, -twisted and deformed as they are, with no open green lawns or bright -flower-beds, are very quaint and attractive in their own way. Then we -drove on to the Euryo-kwan, another Imperial Palace, where the Emperor -and Empress hold their annual cherry blossom party in April, and when -the arched avenue we are standing under, is a mass of pink and white -bloom. The chrysanthemum garden party at the Palace is in November, and -very beautiful, from all accounts it must be, the plants trained into -every shape and device, of ships, pagodas, and umbrellas. - -[Illustration: AN IMPERIAL GARDEN, TOKIO.] - -Mr. Nagasaki told us a great deal of the bitterness of the struggle -of old Japan against the sudden inroad of European custom, a struggle -that is apparent everywhere, but more especially in the capital at -Tokio. The next generation will be altogether European. The Court -is modelled on the etiquette of our English Court, and the Emperor -has the same court officials as the Queen, whilst the Empress holds -Drawing Rooms, and has her ladies in waiting, everyone wearing European -and low evening dresses. We found that all gentlemen wear European -clothes, whilst their wives yet cling to the far more comfortable and -graceful kimono. English is taught in all the upper-class, schools, and -spoken very generally in shops, where the names are also written up in -English, though there are only 3000 Europeans altogether resident in -Japan. The Mikado has a son of twelve, and two little girls, and the -former is soon to have an English tutor. - -We drove to Ueno Park, to a luncheon given in our honour by the -Minister for Foreign Affairs, Viscount Enomotto. This restaurant is -the "Berkeley" of Tokio, and it was a most elaborate repast, though -we could have wished that it had been in a Japanese house. However, -Viscount Enomotto, Viscount Okabé, Mr. Nagasaki, and M. Haryashi -Tadasu, had brought their wives, Viscountess Okabé being a charming -bride who spoke English. These ladies wore kimonos in pale blue, fawn -and grey, and their costly embroidered obis were clasped round with a -single jewel. They had diamond rings and brooches, and their glossy -hair arranged in wonderfully glossy coques with tortoiseshell combs; -and such sweet gracious ladies as they were, shyly putting out their -hands, and bowing so low and gracefully, and speaking in such soft, -caressing tones. Even here, though, European influences were at work, -for I saw a pair of high-heeled French shoes, and even a pair of carpet -slippers peeping out from under the kimonos. - -The room had such beautiful vases of flowers, arranged as only Japanese -can, not put together, but as if growing in natural sprays. After much -drinking of healths and ceremonious compliments, we adjourned to the -neighbouring Technical School of Art, where we saw specimens of lacquer -work, and some of the thirty-five processes through which it passes -before completion. The natural taste for art in the nation comes out -in the work of these 190 students, who pay ten yen a year for their -instruction, for their wood carvings and drawings from life are of -extraordinary excellence, and executed too with the roughest tools. - -The same evening we visited the Maple Leaf Club, to see a performance -of "geisha" or dancing girls. - -This fashionable club was founded by the Nobles, for the preservation -of Japanese customs, and as a protest against the general use of -European ones. Thirty dancing girls are maintained, educated and kept -in strict discipline from the age of fourteen, in the premises of the -club. We are ushered through numerous dimly-lighted corridors, on our -stockinged feet, into a large matted room, bare of furniture, where we -squat on cushions on the floor. A Japanese dinner is served, course -after course being brought in lacquer bowls. A row of maidens, with -their almond eyes dancing with laughter, squat before us and smile -gleefully as we vainly struggle with our chopsticks, and try with -frantic efforts to swallow the recherché dinner, for as Murray truly -says: "Europeans cannot eat Japanese food." And this was the ménu. -Sweet cakes of rice and sugar, served on plates with the monogram of -a maple leaf; soup, a brown liquid with floating lumps of fish; an -omelette (of ancient eggs) with fish sauce; a hot trout with upturned -tail, with grated cheese coloured pink, a stewed fig, and a finger-like -radish that tasted like ginger; more fish with a nasty sauce and stewed -seaweed. As will be seen, fish formed a large item of the dinner, for -the Japanese eat all that comes out of the sea. Saké is served from the -long-necked blue and white bottles into tiny cups. Despair was gaining -upon us at the ceaseless arrival of more lacquer bowls, when the work -of the evening commenced. - -Three demure damsels, in quiet kimonos, with their samisens or -guitars, enter, and begin to play and sing. From behind a screen, their -faces hidden by their fans, steal in three geishas, dressed in the -loveliest grey and pink kimonos, embroidered with the crimson leaf of -the maple. Slowly they girate, their clinging garments trailing around -their turned-in toes. Deliberate and graceful are their slow motions, -and the three figures act as one piece, and not only do their arms move -in unison, but their faces do so too, and they elevate the eyebrows and -close the eyes with the rise and fall of the body. In pretty imagery -they tell the pathetic little story of the maple leaf: its birth and -growth, its mature glory, and its death, the dance ending by the fans -being thrown upon the floor, even as it falls to the ground and dies. A -second performance is a clever mimicry, by the aid of masks, of an old -man, his wife and daughter; and the last dance, with the floating gauze -streamers that wave rhythmically with the music, is most elegant. These -geishas are the favourite form of amusement, and in all villages you -pass houses with mysterious gratings, enclosing a floor, where nightly -the gentle wail of the samisen is heard and the graceful performance of -the geishas is seen. - -_October 1st._--We have had a terrible experience of a typhoon. It -began with a thunder-storm last night, accompanied by violent showers -of tropical rain, the drops being as large as small marbles, whilst -the thunder claps crackled and boomed overhead, and the dazzling -lightning was blinding. The air was full of electricity, and a feeling -of restless foreboding took possession of all. This morning the air was -so damp and close that you felt scarcely able to breathe. Violent gusts -of wind, increasing in succession, alternate with strange pauses of -breathless stillness. There is no twitter of bird or hum of beautiful -dragon fly, for they are forewarned by these signals of danger, and -have crept into safety. The force of the wind increases, and it is -blowing a hurricane, as in our ignorance of these dreadful phenomena -of typhoons (a word formed from the Japanese meaning "great wind,") we -leave the Imperial Hotel at Tokio, on our return journey to Yokohama, -just as it reaches its height. - -Trying to walk to the station, I was blown away at the first corner, -and then two men with a jinrikisha began a hand-to-hand struggle with -the wind, making scarcely any progress, and across the open spaces -being literally blown backwards, and only able to steady the jinrikisha -from going bodily over. How we reached the Shimbashi station I never -understood, but I know that we arrived breathless, blinded, and soaked -through with the rain, with dishevelled hair and battered hats, -thankful only for the shelter of the station; and just as we seated -ourselves in the carriage, a lady was brought in very much bruised -and hurt by the overturning of her jinrikisha, which had been blown -away over an embankment into the canal. You may read descriptions -of typhoons, but until you have seen one, I defy anyone to have the -smallest idea of its awful power. - -The fury of the wind was terrible. The train stood quite still at -times, unable to steam, however slowly, against the wind, whilst the -carriages trembled and rocked on the narrow gauge with every blast of -wind, and we thought more than once that it must be blown over. The -sea was carried in long spindrifts or lashed into brown whirlpools; an -awfully angry sea, boiling and hungry, lashing up in mist and spray -against the breakwater we were on. And here are several heartrending -sights, for one sampan has been washed up and completely broken on -the breakwater, whilst others are being wrecked against its sides, -and we can see the horror-stricken faces of the men clinging in agony -to it; whilst other sampans are fast drifting on to it, and we watch -with awful fear their frantic efforts to save themselves. Houses are -unroofed or blown down, trees bent double or uprooted as we look, -hedges collapse, crops are laid low, and we in this little carriage -are out in its midst, with nothing to break the full fury of the -elements. But even as we begin to wonder what to do on our arrival at -Yokohama, we see that the crisis is past and the gale subsiding. At -Yokohama the streets are strewn with the débris of the typhoon, and all -vessels in the harbour still have their steam up, should their anchors -drag. In two hours the most extraordinary change had taken place. The -waters of the harbour had become blue, and tranquilly lapped the shore, -the sun shone out, the wind died to a breeze. It was a perfect summer's -afternoon. The wind when we left Tokio was blowing at 76·8 miles an -hour; four hours afterwards it had fallen to 40, and soon after died -away. - -[Illustration: A Typhoon.] - -We spend a happy afternoon in the curio shops, at Messrs. Kühn and -Messrs. Welsh, whom we consider have the best things, and then visit, -with Mr. Hall, a nursery garden on the Bluff, for we think of having -one of those prim little Japanese gardens at home. - -The next morning we leave Yokohama, and make an expedition to Kamakura, -a pretty seaside village, to see the great Diabutsu. The approach to -the Buddha is through a gateway which bears the following beautiful -inscription,-- - -Kotoku Monastery: "Stranger, whosoever thou art, and whatsoever be thy -creed, when thou enterest this sanctuary, remember thou treadest upon -ground hallowed by the worship of ages. - -"This is the Temple of Buddha, and the gate of the Eternal, and should -therefore be entered with reverence.--By order of the Prior." - -And with this grand exhortation in our ears we pass into the quiet -garden, with its avenue of cherry and plum trees, lying under the hills -in the sunshine, a perfect stillness all around, and where we see the -half-opened eyes of the colossal Buddha bent forward, as if in passive -contemplation of this quiet scene. There under the stars, amid storm -and wind, mist or tropical sun, he has sat for ages, apathetic, but not -unconscious. The hands lie on his crossed knees, the thumbs meeting at -the finger-tips, and forming two complete circles. - -The Diabutsu is cast in bronze. Time and weather, the stress of the -elements, have mellowed the bronze to the most beautiful grey blue, -streaked with pale green. To appreciate his solemn grandeur, you must -visit him again and again, and each time he is more impressive than -the last. It is quite impossible to grasp the colossal proportions, -but these are the exact measurements:--Height, 49ft. 7in., length of -face, 8ft. 5in., width from ear to ear, 17ft. 9in. The round boss on -the forehead, which appears like a tiny white spot, is really 1ft. -3in. The length of eye and the elevated eyebrows about 4ft., of the -lobe-distended ears 6ft. 6in., and of the nose, with its wide-opened -nostrils, 3ft. 9in. The eyes are of pure gold, and the boss is of -silver weighing 30lbs. Inside, in the hollow of the image, there is a -shrine, and from the gloom of the neck of the Diabutsu stands out in -relief a small golden image. The chanting of the priest below, whose -rhythmic tones ascend muffled to us inside the image, mingling with -the incense of the burning joss sticks, impresses us with a religious -melancholy, when we reflect on the ideal religion set before them by -this great teacher, and the utter indifference, even to outward forms -of worship, manifested by this people. - -The Diabutsu "gives such an impression of majesty, so truly symbolizes -the central idea of Buddhism--the intellectual calm which comes of -perfected knowledge, and the subjugation of all passion." - -Then we took jinrikishas to drive to the pretty little Island of -Enoshima--a wooded hill rising out of the ocean and connected with the -mainland by a spit of sand. The road winds amongst the sand dunes, -along the beach of the sea-shore, where the great waves of the Pacific, -still agitated by yesterday's typhoon, are dashing on to the sands. -Lovely pale green and cerulean tints streak the sea, whilst naked brown -figures plunge and dive under the surf, bringing in great bunches of -brown seaweed, which they cast in shining heaps on the sand. We pass by -a fishing village, strewn with nets hung up to dry, and large bamboo -crails for catching the fish, which we see laid out to cure in the sun. -They are bringing in the harvest too, and women, scantily clothed, and -naked children, whose fat brown bodies look so sleek and comfortable, -are busy seated on the ground threshing out the grain, either by -pounding it with a wooden mallet, or with a rough bamboo flail. The -dull thud of these primitive threshing machines is in all the air, and -the ground outside each hut is spread with mats, on which piles of the -clean yellow grain are placed to dry. - -[Illustration: STREET OF ENOSHIMA, JAPAN.] - -Charming Enoshima is in sight; its green woods, with the temple -roofs peeping out, standing far out in the ocean, its coral reefs -washed by the ocean spray. An island for legend and romance, fit home -for an idyll of medieval ages. - -We go across the sands amid piles of seaweed, picking up lovely -trophies of the deep in mother-of-pearl and pink shells, until we reach -the black wooden torii at the base of the island. What a picturesque -entry into the island it is, for we walk through the quaintest and -narrowest village street, where the upper stories of the houses nearly -meet, and where below, there is that strange medley of the every-day -life of a people carried on in full view of the public eye. Up we -climb, pass the shops full of shells, corals and marine curiosities, -until we reach many winding flights of mossy steps. We make a veritable -pilgrimage up these, until we emerge on to the platform of one of the -many tea-houses. There is a glorious view over the sea at our feet, -divided by its causeway of golden sands, over this side of the Isle -of Nippon with its ranges of purple mountains, jagged-edged, that run -in slanting directions across the island. A walk round Enoshima gives -a succession of equally pretty views, but we cannot get into the cave -on the further side because the bridge was blown down by yesterday's -furious gale. Returning to Kamakura, we had tiffin at the Sanatorium on -the sea-shore, amongst the pines, paid a last lingering visit to the -Diabutsu, and took the train to Kōzu. - -There was a tiresome wait at a junction for the up train, for as yet -the railways in Japan have but a single line, so that it was getting -dusk as we got into the tramway at Kōzu. For ten miles we ran along a -country road and through long straggling villages, whose lights shine -out into the darkness, or show us picturesque interiors. Past Odawara, -celebrated for the manufacture of a wondrous medicine, supposed to be -a remedy for all the ills flesh is heir too; under the ruined walls -of the Castle, scene of many bloody conflicts, until we reach Yumoto. -It is now quite dark and raining heavily. We take jinrikishas, with -three coolies to each one, to push us up the steep mountain road to -Miyanoshita. We present a picturesque sight, akin to weirdness, as the -transparent lights of the coolies wave in the darkness, and six willing -men push and pant, shout and encourage one another, up the steep -windings of the mountain paths. Against the twilight of the starry sky, -I can just trace the outline of the mountains we are winding round -about and amongst, and hear the frequent roar of falling cataracts -sometimes far below, and at others dashing spray across the road. We -feel we miss much by the darkness. - -After what seems a weary while, we at last reach the Fugiya Hotel, the -prettiest of wooden structures, with a succession of outside glazed -verandahs, and the brilliant illumination of its electric lights go -forth to greet us in the darkness, as tired, cold, hungry and wet, -our panting coolies land us at the steps. As a smart London coachman -whips up his horses, and draws up with a dash, so do these coolies, -regardless of even such a severe pull as this, come up to their -destination with a brisk flourish. - -Miyanoshita is a fascinating place. - -We awoke this morning to find ourselves in the mountains, to look down -over the heavy thatched houses of the village, and the road so far, and -yet immediately below us, where some young mothers with their babies -on their backs are waddling along. What a quaint little place it is, -perched up in the middle of ranges of mountains, with their green -slopes as a never-changing background, a village scooped out of their -sides. The shops are full of the wood inlaid like mosaic, and carved as -only can a naturally gifted Japanese, into every kind of article, from -a napkin-ring to an elaborate escritoire. - -Any number of mountain climbs, more or less difficult (so suited to -all) can be made from Miyanoshita. We have just returned from a lovely -expedition to Lake Hakone and the hot district of Ojigoku. Leaving the -hotel at midday in bamboo chairs attached to poles and each carried by -four coolies, we ascend the mountains. The motion is smooth and easy, -as they all keep step together, to a melodious chorus of grunts, the -front coolies answering the hind ones. - -These grass mountains that we are in the midst of, are so beautiful. -They have scarcely any trees, but their gradual slopes are covered with -the pale, sickly green of rush or bamboo grass, that imparts to them a -peculiarly pleasing, even effect. Frequently there is a column of smoke -curling up their sides, from some hot spring, for all this district is -intensely volcanic, and at the village of Ashinoyu, where we rest and -give tea to the men, there are numerous hot springs and baths. It is -a desolate place, and is made more so by the clouds coming down and -completely damping us and the view. It is rather dreary jogging along -with these human ponies in a dense mist, out of which loom palely -the foremost bearers, when, as suddenly as we came into it, the fog -lifted, leaving us the most beautiful cloud effects of white filmy -vapours, trailing low down on the mountain side, with a patch of blue -sky just beginning to show, and the sun shining up there behind those -opaque masses of cloud and mist, making them appear so fleecy and -transparent. It is now a lovely summer's afternoon above and around us, -and immediately afterwards we have below, an enchanting view of Hakone -and its deep blue lake, so deep that, though it has been fathomed for -five miles, the bottom has yet to be found. We see the green wooded -peninsula, jutting so boldly out into the lake, that from this distance -we think it is an island, and on this ideal spot, hidden far away from -the burdensome etiquette of public life, the Mikado is building himself -a palace, that is approached by the beautiful cryptomeria avenue, that -also leads to Hakone. Whilst we are waiting at the village below for -our chairs and coolies to be shipped on a boat, we "kodak" a charming -group of Japanese children; one of our coolies actively assisted in -arranging them, and I noticed took good care to include himself in the -picture, for this useful and companionable little instrument has become -familiar even to the Japanese, and later on the men were so pleased -when we did a group of them in the prow of the boat, smoking and -eating their rice out of bamboo baskets, with a division for a _bonne -bouche_ of some morsels of fish. These coolies are delightfully merry -fellows, always willing, always cheerful, whether tired or hungry, -never shirking work, and ready to help each other, laughing and seeing -the fun of any little passing incident. Most of them speak a few words -of English, the object of every coolie in Japan being to learn it, as -they earn so much more money from foreigners. You constantly find, -that whilst waiting, they study a blue Japanese-English phrase book, -exceptionally badly compiled. - -We are rowing three miles across the lake in a sampan, with an upturned -prow, propelled by some oarsmen, and which much resembles a picture of -an old Roman galley. Their wooden oars, a long blade tied to a piece of -wood, are fixed to the gunwale, in rowlocks formed of a pin of wood, -and on this they roll over and back each time, a clumsy but effectual -movement. The surrounding view is wondrously beautiful. The green -pointed mountains with their sharp edges coming down directly into the -lake on one side; the other covered with shrubs and some overhanging -trees, under whose sweeping arms we glide to the landing stage, in the -lights and shadows of a still glorious afternoon. It sounds but a tame -description, and yet in reality it is sublime, and, for some reason -hard to discover, it is absolutely different, and because of that much -more charming than any other lake I have ever seen. - -We begin a long ascent, with a continued view, looking backward, where -translucent clouds float down the mountain sides, which are mirrored -faithfully in the green waters, and as we plunge into a dense wood of -bamboos, we take our last farewell look back at Lake Hakone. It is a -stony and steep path, cut in zig-zags through the thick undergrowth -where there is no room for the long poles of the chair to turn, so we -have to walk. Suddenly we come across a little square village, built -round a wooden bath house, where the whole population of invalids are -bathing together in the warm mineral spring. - -As we ascend, the scene grows wilder. Vegetation decreases, and masses -of barren rock appear. The earth is warm and steaming, nor must you -leave the path, as these treacherous brown curling scales of earth are -only a crumbling upper crust, over the furnace below, and lives have -more than once been lost here. The air reeks of sulphurous fumes, a -strong overpowering stench. And this curious volcanic scene continues, -until we reach the abomination of desolation. Here, standing above, we -look far away down into a vast cauldron of steam, that rises up and -envelops us in suffocating fumes of sulphur, so strong that, wheezing -and coughing, we have to turn backwards to get fresh breath, so dense -that we can only dimly see the great masses of rock around us. More -often they are not rocks, but clumps of crumbling lava, loosely welded -together in fantastic shapes, and that take the most wonderfully bright -colours from the surrounding mineral substances, of orange, carmine, -blue, madder and brown. In one place there is a little stream, in which -the sulphur deposit is so thick that there is a rich coating round of -green, bright as malachite. The boiling water of many streams swells -the vapour that rises from this fitly-named Ojigoku, or Big Hell. - -We scramble and grope our way down, ever deeper into this apparently -bottomless pit, into this boiling smoking abyss, where the -evil-smelling fumes wrap us round so effectually that we can scarcely -trace our path, and choking and blinded, we wonder vaguely, if we shall -ever emerge into light and air once more. But after we have made a -long and devious descent, we branch off to the left, and when we feel -ourselves in comparative safety, and in a clearer atmosphere, we turn -round to look back to see the wreathing masses of smoke that eternally -ascend from this hell. And there, behind this blank desolation, rises -at the head of the valley the graceful acute peak of Kammurigatake, -with the dense green forests covering it from top to bottom, formed by -a thick undergrowth of small box and andromeda japonica. It reminds -us of the hot springs of New Zealand, of those beautiful pink and -white terraces, which, alas! are no more, where mingling as here with -volcanic rocks and steam, there is the additional charm of a luxuriant -wealth of semi-tropical vegetation. - -We have a very long descent to make, over the roughest path of loose -rock and stones, and across several streams, where the obliging coolie -makes a bridge of his back, and when we have nearly reached the bottom -and made the circuit of the valley on the path cut out midway on the -mountain side, we pass round into another valley with wide amphitheatre -of mountains. It is through the midst of these, at the end of a long -vista formed by their green slopes, that we see the smooth waters of -the Pacific, spread out like a looking-glass in the closing afternoon -light, and beautiful as had been the views and scenery all day, I think -this glimpse of sea and mountains exceeded all. A long winding descent -to Miyanoshita in the dusk, which we reach just as they were sending -out two messengers with lanterns, to light us home. - -_Friday, October 3rd._--We went up Sengeuyama, the wooded hill, 1000 -feet above, and at the back of the hotel, carried in a kagos or Chinese -chair, a most luxurious way of ascending a mountain. It was a glorious -morning, with not a cloud in the sky; one of those days when you feel -that everything is beautiful, and the views of the mountains at every -zig-zag changing and appearing more and more splendid, as at each turn -we rise more on a level with them. And then those beautiful thickets of -bamboos, the trees of delicately-pointed maple leaves, the laurels and -evergreens, the azaleas and hibiscus, the creepers and tendrils, the -great clumps of red spiky wild lotus, of purple everlastings, of blue -lupus, and yellow snapdragon all growing in wild confusion, fresh with -the morning's dew. - -There is a little tea-house hung with flags on the platform at the top, -and such a view over Odiwara Bay, and of the panorama of mountains with -their smooth, pale-green slopes, and there, between those two peaks, -in the gap, we ought to get a view of Fujiyama, only, as she so often -does, she is hiding herself to-day behind the clouds. No sooner do we -reach the bottom than we have to leave Miyanoshita for Yumoto, with a -parting pang of regret that our stay is so short. The Fujiya Hotel, -though kept by a Japanese, is most comfortable, with excellent mineral -baths, which never seem so pleasant as after a long day's excursion, -nor must I forget to mention the little Japanese waiting damsels, who -giggle and waddle about in their tightly-drawn kimonos, struggling with -the details of the French ménu. - -We speed quickly down the magnificent mountain road, which we came -up before in the dark. It is cut out from the cliff, and has those -glorious views, growing grander as we descend into the valley of the -mountain, views that make Miyanoshita the most charming of mountain -resorts. Even when we get into the tramway at Yumoto, and travel along -the plain, there is such a pretty picture of the sea-shore, where the -sea looks as green as a lagoon at Venice. We pass again through the -long-continued street of villages, where the high thatched roofs are -crowned at the top with a cage of poles, on which tufts of grass are -growing, and through the blinds of bamboo canes catch glimpses of the -washing, the eating, the hairdressing, and the cooking, the every-day -busy life of the little people inside. We take the train from Kōzu to -Nagoya. - -A most lovely journey it is, for the line runs through and crosses -a pass in the midst of the mountains, which look radiantly beautiful -with their immense variety of foliage--dark evergreens, mingling with -the yellower autumn tints. They are always the same, these mountains -in Japan; conical in shape, with sharp-edged shoulders perfectly -formed in miniature, rising very straight up from the level. There -are numberless waterfalls, foaming torrents gushing down where the -valley parts a little. At Gotemba we have two engines to the train, one -behind to push, the other in front to pull, for the pass here rises -to 1500 feet. Then we come out into an open valley where there are -thousands of little yellow paddy fields, with many bamboo groves, whose -light-green feathery fingers wave above heavier groups of dead-green -cryptomerias; where the villages, with their heavy black roofs, nestle -under the mountains, and tea-houses with their flag poles are perched -on many a little eminence, and endless black torii lead to the temples, -surrounded by groves of trees. I had often heard of the exquisite -scenery of Japan, but this comes up to, and exceeds all expectation. - -We journey on. Suddenly in the sky we see suspended a great purple -cone. The base is cut off by a sky of clouds. It is the beautiful -summit of Fujiyama. - -Fuji dominates the island, and you have so many views of it from every -side, that it seemed to me that we were constantly spending our time -in looking for the cone amongst the clouds. It is very rare to have -a perfectly unclouded view of the mountain, but this we now nearly -succeeded in doing. Perhaps it is because it is so often veiled in -clouds that the Japanese have surrounded it with such a sacred mystery. -It seems such a familiar friend now, this cone of Fuji, for we have -seen it depicted upon numberless scrolls and screens, on tea services -and china plaques, on cloisonné and lacquer, since we came to Japan. - -This view of Fuji is superb. The mountains break away and leave a -vast plain, out of which it sweeps up solitary, colossal. The crater -at the top looks like the jagged edges of a tooth, down which streams -of lava have streaked their course. And as we follow the sweeping -lines of the great pyramid up 13,000 feet of height, the clouds that -lay half-way down, roll away. Only a few fleecy ones float ethereally -along the summit, whilst the Sacred Mountain, deep purple pink, stands -revealed in all the glory of a sunset evening, against a pale primrose -sky, deepening into lilac overhead. Then we realize whence the Japanese -acquire their idea of colour. Their artists are only reproducing the -realities of nature as constantly present to them in the half tones of -their island sky and sea, and it is from such sunsets as these that -they faithfully copy the translucent shades of rose-pink, grey-blue, -lilac and apple-green, that form the background of those beautiful -cloisonné plaques and china vases. The halo of romance woven around -this poetical mountain, the object of reverence to thousands of -pilgrims, who painfully climb up the nine stages to enter the crater -at the top, is increased by this view of it, which will, to me, at any -moment recall the lovely splendour of Fuji. - -The plain is formed of the rich alluvial deposits of lava from the -many eruptions of Fuji, and is a splendid agricultural district, -where that neat "carpet" cultivation is seen to perfection, and where -the harvest is now in full swing. Columns of smoke, rising from the -surrounding mountain sides, show this district is volcanic, and shocks -of earthquake are frequent all over Japan, but particularly at Yokohama. - -Soon the railway runs along the sea-shore, where there is just room for -it between the pebbly beach and the deeply wooded mountains--a pretty -bit of travelling. We look across the pale green bay to the little -range of lilac hills opposite, and listen to the idle lapping of the -waves, and see the sampans putting out to sea for the night's fishing, -as darkness, the quickly falling dusk of a tropical climate, closes -over all. - -I must say that travelling in Japan presents an uncomfortable feature -in being obliged to carry your provisions with you, as only Japanese -eatables can be obtained at the stations. Fortunately the distances are -not great, but when it happens, as on this occasion, that two parties, -one of Germans, besides ourselves, all dined out of paper parcels, the -car presents a very unpleasant appearance. - -We reached Nagoya at midnight. Two jinrikishas bore us swiftly -through the deserted streets, all dull and dark, because the paper -lanterns of the passers-by are gone home, and there is no attempt at -street-lighting. We are sent flying round a dark corner to be deposited -before a barred and shuttered door. There is a great noise within, much -whispering and unbolting of doors, rather a mysterious arrival, and -then a stream of light pours forth, and shows the usual crowd of little -bowing men and women, who escort us in a body up the polished stair -to our rooms _à la Japonaise_, where we sleep with the light shining -through the paper walls. - -We are awakened the next morning by the shuffle of stockinged feet over -the polished boards, and one of the waddling little waiting-maids, with -the most brilliant pink and white cheeks, flicking the dust away with a -wisp of papers tied on to a stick, two of the same escorting C. to the -bath, a wooden tub of boiling water placed on an earthern floor. - -There is a delightful outlook from the glazed screens, a European -concession, which probably will be general a few years hence, showing -how easily the Japanese assimilate all foreign improvements, over -the dark crinkled roofs across the wall of the street, into a seed -merchant's opposite, where golden bunches of persimmons mingle with the -sample baskets of grain. A dozen pairs of inquisitive eyes from the -open balcony opposite, watch me brush my hair. Then we breakfast in a -room, or rather, I should say, in five rooms, for the sliding screens -are all thrown back, and, free and open as a summer-house, there are -vistas of rooms on either side; and these screens are decorated with -such artistic designs, a spray of bamboo with a red-legged stork; a -branch of crimson maple with hanging tendrils, or a purple iris and -some water-rushes. There is a bronze vase, too, filled with fresh wild -flowers on the table. Then come the curio vendors, and, spreading their -handkerchiefs on the floor, produce their treasures one by one. - -Nagoya is celebrated for its magnificent feudal Castle. A police -emissary, with silver-mounted jinrikishas, comes to conduct us over it, -and it is as well, as there appears to be much red tape formality in -admission to these royal domains. - -Across the courtyard--a typical one, where the three yards to the gate -is made by the winding paving-stones to appear quite a long distance, -we sally forth into those kaleidoscopic streets, towards the great -white donjon-keep, with its golden dolphins dominating the town. - -The Castle has three moats; the outer one, with its green slopes and -single row of fir trees, is given up to barracks and parade grounds, -for there are upwards of 3000 troops at Nagoya, and being a holiday, -the streets are full of their white uniforms and yellow-banded caps. -The white walls of the Castle are raised from the moat on parapets -formed of gigantic stones, and roofed with crenellated bronze tiles, -whilst at the corners rise pagoda-shaped towers. These walls are the -most wonderful part of the Castle, for many of the stories are six -and nine feet long, and proportionately broad, and can be traced -out, as length ways, slantways, across, they are piled up on a broad -base, shelving backwards, without cement or earth, supported by their -own weight. On many of the largest corner-stones are engraved marks -and designs, to show that they were the contribution of the Daimyos, -for the Castle was erected in 1610, by twenty barons, to serve as a -residence for Yeyasu's son. Crossing the moat, which is dry, and used -for tame deer, over a drawbridge, we enter the courtyard through a -massive gateway. - -The decorations inside the palace are exquisite, though the rooms are -bare and uncared-for, and many of the paintings are defaced. In the -first chamber, the fusumas, or sliding screens, are of dull gold, and -painted on them are the most life-like lions, panthers, and leopards, -the spots of the latter being specially well delineated; with glaring -eyes, fierce whiskers, and lashing tails, they crouch in life-like -attitudes, ready to spring; or in another group are mothers with their -young ones gambolling around them. In another screen the bamboo trees -have the joints of their stems faithful to life, and an adjoining one -has a straggling fir-tree, just like one of those on the moat wall -outside, with a blinking owl perched on the topmost branch. There are -others with weeping willows, and red-leaved maples, and pink-and-white -lotus; one in particular we noticed that had painted on it a -tiger-lily, with yellow spots, a crimson peony, a blue convolvulus, and -a white daisy, forming a peculiarly beautiful panel. Next to this is a -spray, a mass of snow-white plum blossom, against a dull gold ground. - -Nor are the animals less faithfully depicted, for there are pheasants -with eyes on their tails, wild ducks flying across a pale-blue ground, -with their flapping, outstretched wings, and webbed feet; a stork with -red legs on which the sinuous rings are so life-like. In one room, -which was especially reserved for the use of the Shogun when he came to -visit his kinsman, the decorations are especially gorgeous, and here -there are ideal Chinese scenes, which exactly resemble the familiar -willow-pattern plate. There is the five-storied pagoda, the willow -trees, and the high curve of the bamboo bridge. The roofs of these -rooms are of black lacquer, inlaid with gold, whilst the windows are -made of that geometrically carved lattice work, covered with opaque -paper. - -But perhaps the most beautiful thing of all is the open wood carving -on the ramma, or ventilating screens, between the rooms, for here, that -great Japanese artist, Hidara Jingoro, has carved the most exquisitely -faithful representations of a white crane, a tortoise, a hen with -her little ones, parrots, and birds of paradise. There is one that -excites everybody's admiration. It is a cock perched on a drum, its -beak wide open in the act of crowing, so natural, that you expect to -hear the "Cock-a-doodle-doo." The red, erect coxcomb, and the brown -and blue iridescence of the tail are life-like. And when we look round -on this mass of gorgeous paintings and carvings, we marvel that their -resplendent colours are undimmed by the lapse of three hundred years, -that some are as bright to-day, as when they were executed three -decades ago. - -We ascend the great, gloomy, five-storied Keep, which is built up -inside on massive beams of wood, whole tree trunks being used as -supports. From the gallery at the top we have a charming view of the -brown roofs of Nagoya, lying around the castle, of the military prison -below, where the prisoners are exercising in the yard, of the heavy -square roof of the temple rising up majestically above the squat -houses--of the wide-reaching plain, and the circling mountains. The -precious golden dolphins, covered over with wire netting, are above us, -glittering resplendent in the sun. They measure eight feet in height, -and are valued at 180,000 dols. One of them was sent to the Vienna -Exhibition of 1873, and great was the despair of the citizens when, -on its return voyage, it was wrecked in the Messageries steamer, the -_Nil_. However, it was recovered from the deep, with great difficulty, -and proudly restored to its original position. - -Then we went for a drive, and I am not sure that the great centre -street of Nagoya was not the most fascinating and absorbing one that we -saw in Japan, and the whole town was charming in its bright cleanliness -and bustling streets. - -It is with a peculiar feeling of sadness that I write this description -of Nagoya and recall its pleasant reminiscence, because the terrible -news has just reached us in far off China, that an earthquake has -destroyed this thriving town. It makes one's heart ache with pity to -think of those smiling streets, that happy swarm of industrious people -suddenly left homeless, the survivors surrounded by their dead or dying -relatives, whilst the muffled booming, the precursor of the earthquake -shocks, tell them that they might be the next victims. - -In this dreadful earthquake 8000 people were killed, 10,000 injured, -and 100,000 houses destroyed. Nagoya experienced 6600 earth-spasms, -or an average of thirty shocks an hour. Fortunately the ancient -castle--monument of an extinct dynasty--is unharmed, saved by its -massive walls, and the decreasing size of its pagoda storeys. - -We left the hotel amid many "Sayonaras" (farewells), reached the -station by the drooping avenue of willows, and, with five hours in the -train, arrived at Kioto, and settled ourselves into its excellent new -Hotel, with palatially proportioned rooms. - - - - -CHAPTER VII. - -THE WESTERN CAPITAL AND INLAND SEA. - - -Kioto is the western metropolis of Japan, and was the only capital from -793 until twenty years ago, when the present Mikado re-established his -supremacy over the Shoguns, and selected Tokio as the metropolis of the -Empire. - -We began the next day by doing our duty by the sights of Kioto, and -commenced with His Majesty's palace, of Gosho, for which a special -permission had been sent us. This is now the third Imperial palace that -we have visited. I think we were foolish to come, because by this time -we might have known that there is really nothing worthy of interest to -see. - -The palace is enclosed by high walls and covers an area of twenty-six -acres. At the gate of "the August Kitchen," we went through an -elaborate ceremony of inscribing our names in the lacquer and gold -tasselled visiting book of the Mikado, whilst two exceedingly unkempt -officials, in rusty black kimonos, superintended our movements. Of -course this palace, like the others, is bare of furniture, carpets or -hangings. The fusumas, or screens are decorated with splashes of blue -paint and green mountains, or with funny little pictures of Japanese -life, drawn with a total neglect of perspective. A lot of old women -in wicker hats were raking, with bamboo claws, His Imperial Majesty's -courtyards. The garden is scarcely so good as the one at the Hotel, -with its pond on which floated an unpainted wooden gondola. The whole -produces an impression of discomfort. - -We pass first into the Seiryoden, or "Pure and Cool Hall," where the -square of cement in the corner was every morning strewn with earth, -so that the Mikado could worship his ancestors on the earth without -leaving the palace. Then into the Audience hall, in the centre of which -is the Imperial throne, hung with white silken curtains and a pattern -meant to represent the bark of a pine tree. The stools on either -side of the throne were for the Imperial insignia, the sword and the -jewel. On the eighteen steps stood the eighteen grades into which the -Mikado's officials were divided. Then we see the Imperial study, where -His Majesty's tutors delivered lectures. The suite of rooms called the -"August Three Rooms," where Nō performances, a kind of lyric drama, -were performed, and lastly a suite of eleven rooms, where the Mikados, -when Kioto was the capital, lived and died. We see the Imperial -sitting-room with the bed-room behind, completely surrounded by other -apartments, so that no one should approach His Majesty without the -knowledge of his attendants. This sounds perhaps interesting enough, -and having read Murray's elaborate description we were eager to see -Gosho, but the reality is a succession of ordinary Japanese rooms, dark -and bare, without the redeeming feature of well painted fusumas. - -The obnoxious janitors, notwithstanding our credentials, obstinately -refused to show us the only thing of interest, namely the present -Imperial living rooms, on the plea that they are being now prepared -for the reception of the Heir Apparent who arrives in a few days, and -we see bales of furniture covered with green and blue cloths, bearing -the royal insignia of the chrysanthemum, being dragged across the inner -courts. - -The Nijo Palace is surrounded by a moat and pagoda-guarded wall of -Cyclopean masonry. It is undergoing repair, and we can therefore only -see the handsome outer gateway formed of lacquer and beaten gold, and -the beautifully worked gilt fastenings to the gates, but inside the -descriptions read like a dream of beauty, which we should be most -anxious to see, were it not for the experience we have just gone -through at the other palace of Gosho. - -Kioto has its Diabutsu, its big bronze bell, its pagodas, palaces, -gardens and monasteries, but above all it has its temples--temples -large and small, decorated and plain, dull and uninteresting. You might -easily spend a week at Kioto seeing nothing save these, but of temples -I confess we are by this time thoroughly sick and tired. The sight of -a torii makes us turn wearily away, and from a sāmmon (or gateway) -we hastily flee. Everyone who visits Japan ends by experiencing this -satiety of temples, a feeling induced by their monotonous identity and -entire want of originality. Still we feel that we must visit some of -the sights, so somewhat half-heartedly we go forth towards the Show -Temple of Nishi Hongwanji, the headquarters of the western branch -of the Hongwanji Buddhist sect, a dark massive structure. In the -courtyard is the large tree which, "by discharging showers of water," -protects the temple from fire in the vicinity. We wander through the -state rooms, the minor shrines, and the big temple; and in truth the -decorations are marvellously beautiful, but I will not weary you with -the detailed descriptions of lacquer-ribbed ceilings, golden pillars, -of kakemonos (hanging scrolls) over 200 years old, of cornices wrought -in coloured arabesques, and shrines painted and carved in floral -designs. Again there are those most exquisitely painted scenes on the -sliding screens, of peacocks and peahens seated on a peach tree with -white blossoms; of wild geese on a dead-gold ground, of scroll patterns -carved in the design of the peony or chrysanthemum leaf and flower, nor -of the angels in full relief that gaze down upon us from the ceiling. -But I must make especial mention of the gilt trellised folding-doors, -opening back to disclose a wintry scene of life-sized bamboo and plum -trees, and of pine with dark-spreading branches covered with snow. - -We wander through the peaceful stillness of the monastery garden, where -the jostle and noise of the thick crowding streets around comes over -the wall in a dull hum, feed the gold fishes in a pond from the cool -cloister, and climb up to a little tower--or pavilion of the flying -clouds--where, on kneeling on the ground, we can trace a few pencil -lines on a gold ground, supposed to be the work of the great artist, -Kana Molonobii. - -Then, passing the Hijashi Hongwangi, which, when finished, will be the -largest Buddhist temple of Japan, we go on through a narrow street, -under an archway, and pass into an enclosure, where booths of gay -trifles line the road running to the Sanjūsangendo, or the temple of -33,333 images of Kwannon, the Goddess of Mercy, where a thousand gilt -images of five feet rise in tiers above each other, the number being -completed by the smaller effigies engraved on the face and hands of -the larger ones. Near by the great Buddha, twin to the Kamakura one, -is dwarfed into a building where his head touches the ceiling, and -you can only gaze up from underneath at his colossal sleepy features. -To the right, hung under a belfry, is one of the two largest bronze -bells in the Island, and immediately under it is a little open temple, -where five Buddhist priests, squatted in a semicircle, monotone the -evensong. We return home with that comfortable feeling that comes of -duty performed, and proceed to enjoy ourselves by a drive in the dusk -through the fairy lighted streets. - -Kioto is a fascinating place, but, as I have said, it is not the -sights that make it so. The attraction partly lies, as it always does -in Japan, in those wonderful little brown streets, with their wide -eaved and diminutive two-storied dolls' houses, hung with original sign -posts of fans, monster paper lanterns and gay flags, that stand out in -sharp relief down a long vista, from the purple mountains. Kioto is on -the plain surrounded by a circle of mountains, and at the end of all -the streets, face which way you will, there is always this effective -background to the toy town. If you mount a little way up them, you can -look back and have a panoramic view over thousands of brown-roofed -huts, presenting a perfectly level surface, except when a temple roof, -square and dark, overshadows the others. - -[Illustration: My carriage at Kioto.] - -We had thought Tokio the most fascinating imaginable place, but, -except for its grass-grown moats, reflecting waters, and cawing -rooks, Kioto is even more enticing. The streets are narrower and more -untouched by that dreaded European taint, showing itself at Tokio in -small drapers' shops, and cheap lamp and umbrella stores. Life is more -primitive, the people are more unsophisticated, as we know by the -little crowd, polite and interested, that attends us in our shoppings, -and that makes the dusk in the shops darker, by the blackness of their -gathering round. The gay china shops, the chemists, blacksmiths, -booksellers, the fish and fruit stores cease not to interest us; the -walking picture, coming to meet us of a Japanese lady with shapely, -tightly-girt figure, with the baby on her inclined back, sheltered -under a paper umbrella, charms us as much as ever. The wee children in -their blue and white kimonos or wadded jackets, their heads shaved, -with a bald circle on the crown, just like the Japanese doll of a toy -shop; the little ten-year-old nurses with their brown babies asleep, -and heads waddling from side to side as they shuffle along; the ladies, -in handsome dress, taking an afternoon airing with their husbands in -a double jinrikisha; the sellers crying their goods and attracting -attention by the help of a bell, gong, drum, or whistle: all these -things, though we seem to have been in their midst for so long, almost -at times to have lived all our lives with them, are a never-ending -source of interest. But a new charm has been added to these, one that -exceeds them all, one that is all-absorbing. We throw temples, palaces, -gardens, sight-seeing to the winds, and resolve to devote the few -remaining hours of our stay in Japan, to shopping and the curio shops. - -We drive through many winding streets and draw up in one not -different to the others, and, lifting up the black draperies, enter. -There may, perhaps, be a few bronze or lacquer articles spread -about, but nothing to indicate the priceless art-treasures that we -are presently going to see. With hands on knees, sliding down with -bows of reverence, and the gasping produced by sucking in of breath -between the teeth, stands the proprietor, surrounded by a background of -assistants. With deferential encouragement he leads you to the backmost -recesses of the shop, through winding passages, across paved squares, -until you come to the prettiest little picture of a garden made out -of a courtyard of a few square feet, and here in rooms opening out of -this, surrounded by fire-proof godowns, far away from the eyes of an -inquisitive crowd of passers-by, he shows forth his precious treasures. -This courtyard is so artfully arranged as to deserve description. There -will be, perhaps, a clump of bamboos in one corner, a stone lantern on -one side, a piece of water with gold fish in it in the centre, and an -azalea on bamboo supports trained round it; a bronze urn with drinking -water and a wooden scoop by it, and a green metal stork. First of all -tea is brought, and the smoking boxes, which contain the hot ashes in -a bronze or china urn, and the bamboo trough for the used ashes; then -the real work commences. An art museum, the labour of hundreds of years -ago, when a man devoted his life-time to the production of one or two -works of art, are laid on the matting before you. - -From behind cabinets, from underneath tables, boxes are silently -produced, and from out of folds of soft crêpe or flannel, and many -paper wrappers come lovely objects, lovingly, caressingly fingered and -stroked by their owner. There are vases of rock crystal, jade, plaques, -and trays of the most exquisite cloisonné, when a magnifying glass is -gently pushed into your hands that you may enter into the minutest -details of the minute work. Bronzes, and satsuma china, inro or lacquer -medicine boxes, with their succession of trays for powders, and those -lovely Netsuke or carved ivories where each wrinkle and hair, each line -and feature are so faithfully graven in the quaint heads and groups. -The prices asked are fabulous, but I often scarcely thought that the -dealer wanted to part with his curios, he seemed so proudly fond of -them. - -I confess that our taste inclined often to the baser kind of shops, -where the goods were of doubtful origin, but Japan has, in the last few -years, been so overrun with curio buyers and Americans, that the few -really antique things left are scarce, and hard to find. The Japanese, -like the Chinese, always reserve their best things to the last, and -then somewhat reluctantly produce them. We haunted the old shops -where great golden Buddhas sat enthroned amidst a most miscellaneous -collection--men in armour, memorial cabinets, huge bronze vases, -inlaid swords with quaint tsuba, or sword guards, mingling with lovely -china vases, which, if modern, are nevertheless a joy for ever to -possess--to feast your eyes on their delicate shiny surfaces of ruby -_sang-de-bœuf_, imperial yellow, lilac, blue, apple-green, or rose -pink, strewn with a spray of snowy blossom or a spiky shaft of bamboo, -where little birds fly across the pale sea of colour, or solemn storks -perch beside some waving reeds. - -Again and again we are made to wonder how these small shops, so meagre -and unpretentious outside, find the capital and become possessed of -such wondrous treasures. Hours you can spend there, and hours they will -be pleased to show you these, for in Japan no one is ever in a hurry. -Life is very leisurely. - -The "curio fever" is upon us. To anyone who has visited Japan the -description of a Canadian authoress is but "too intensely true." - -"You don't 'shop' in this country. Shopping implies premeditation, -and premeditation is in vain in Japan. If you know what you want, -your knowledge is set aside in a moment, in the twinkling of an eye, -and your purchases gratify anticipations that you never had, to be -paradoxical. And you never fully know the joy of buying until you buy -in Japan. Life condenses itself into one long desire, keener and more -intense than any want you ever had before--the desire of paying and -possessing. The loftiest aims are swallowed up in this; the sternest -scientist, or political economist, or social theorist that was ever set -ashore at Yokohama straightway loses life's chief end among the curios, -and it is at least six weeks before he finds it again. And as to the -ordinary individual, without the guidance of superior aims, time is no -more for him, nor things temporal; he is lost in contemplation of the -ancient and the beautiful in the art of Nippon, and though he sell his -boots and pawn his grandfather's watch, he will carry it off with him -to the extent of his uttermost farthing...." - -And so we felt. - -But of course it is the crêpe and silk shops that woman-like -fascinate me most. Those lovely, soft, crisp, textiles, in rose-pink, -coral, lilac, blue, and silver-grey, in sea-green, mignonette, and -chrysanthemum-yellow, shades that you can find in no other country, -because the secret of these heavenly dyes is known only to the -Japanese. Oh! they are things to make your coveteousness strong, -your heart ache, unless your purse is full and deep. Then there are -the common washing crêpes, with their graceful running designs so -artistically disposed, their harmony of colouring, and of which I order -kimonos for dressing-gowns for all the children of the family. There -is a lovely crêpe with rainbow stripes, not as you who have seen the -brilliant orange-green and purple rays of the original would imagine, -for it is a white filmy texture, with only a suspicion of pale melting -zephyr stripes, slanting across it. - -Then there are the silks and crêpes embroidered with blood-red autumn -sprays, with butterflies, pink dolphins and sea-shells, or panels -of satin of such exquisite workmanship, with ever recurring views -of Fuji, and hanging kakemonos and screens and coverlets, all so -beautiful, and of such faithful artistic merit. We are shown specimens -of a newly-revived industry, handed down from ancient dyers, where -pictures rich and soft are raised in velvet, against a pale silk or -satin ground. By an ingenious process of wires, running parallel with -the hard thread of the woof, bearing the outline of the picture in -velvet, which are, after the dyeing and steaming cut out, these quaint -pictures, which at first you think painted, are produced. Everything -you see in Japan is art. It is brought into the manufacture of the -commonest things of daily life, and seen to perfection in these cut -velvets and rich embroideries. It is in the air they breathe. For even -as we pass out from this rich inner sanctum, into the open street -shop, where the crowd of customers, each seated on cushions on the -counter step, with a salesman squatted before him, swiftly running -the counters of his abaca up and down, multiplying and dividing like -lightning by this ingenious machine, we see piles of coloured goods, -of quite common quality only one degree less delightful in colour and -design, than those we have chosen from. I must not forget to mention -in our shoppings the photographs, which are extraordinarily good and -very cheap. It might also be of use to someone to know that we found -at Kioto, Daimaruicha and Co., and Takashimaya Ilda and Co., the best -shops for crêpes, silk, embroideries, and kimonos, made to order, and -Nishimura for the cut velvets, these shops having but one price, and -with the goods marked in plain figures. - -We get up early the next morning, for now that we are so soon leaving -Japan, we feel that every hour is wasted that we are not out and about, -drinking in last scenes from these bewitching streets. We direct our -jinrikishas into a distant quarter of far-reaching Kioto, into the -meanest and dirtiest of streets, where most of the shops are full of -old iron, and hung round with second-hand goods like a pawnbroker's, -but where we are told that the real old-fashioned curio-shops, not got -up collections of curio for the circumnavigator, still exist. I must -say that they seemed full of impossible rubbish. - -In the afternoon, somewhat satiated with buying, we drove out to -Shugaku--one of the Mikado's summer villas. It was an intensely hot -afternoon, but the first disagreeably warm day that we have had, as our -weather has been perfect, with no rain and sunny skies day after day. -October and November are always delicious months in Japan. - -The villa consisted of an absolutely bare, undecorated, matted, -tea-house, of modest, you might in the case of this, its royal owner, -say mean dimensions, but the garden is a gem. From it there is a near -view of purple hills, all in little crinkled edges, running in lines -one below the other, made nearer to us by the warm still atmosphere, -whilst behind the garden rises a formal hill; truly Japanese in its -conical structure, covered with pine trees, whose pink and purple stems -gleam out from the dark fir needles. There is the usual figurative mile -upon mile of winding paths, the steep hills to descend and climb up by -stone steps, the familiar bridges, one with pagoda-covered roof, and -the other of bamboo and turfed, crossing the neatly devised harbours -and bays of the artificial lake, whose banks are covered with palms, -but it is the hedges that are worth coming to see. They are of azalea -and camellia, and honeysuckle, cut low, so that they spread out to an -enormous thickness, to a breadth of twenty feet, and it is over these -green open ramparts, that you look out on the lovely view. - -We refused in coming home, though we had time to spare, to visit any -more temples, and we spent the last evening in going to a fair, given -in honour of the God of Water. As at Tokio, where we saw a similar -festival for the God of Writing, it was held in a special quarter. The -dark, narrow streets are outlined in coloured lamps, with arches, the -light glowing through the paper, and the varieties of colour--red, -green, blue, and pink, forming a soft and effective illumination, not -surpassed by many more elaborate Jubilee ones. Many of the houses are -decorated with wonderful marine representations of blue waves, with -fishes and dolphins, and fir trees placed at intervals, with more -lanterns and red paper devices. The locality is _en fête_, and the -entire population is thronging the streets, which we wander delightedly -through. There are performances of monkeys and dogs proceeding, and -a crowd outside trying to look over the partitions; geishas, with -the accompanying twang of the Samisens, are going through their slow -performances behind the open bars. Children are flattening their noses -against the glass cases of the confectioners', with their sweetmeats -and temptingly sugared cakes, or group round the vendors of paper toys -stuck on pieces of wood, whilst the women gaze as longingly at the -cheap combs, tawdry hair-pins, and gaudy flowers, laid out under the -hawkers' glaring oil lamps. There are booths for the sale of cheap -soap, cutlery, sandals, glass, jewellery, and candles. The tea-houses -are doing an enormous trade, and the naturally contented people look -supremely happy. - -We left Kioto to pay a flying visit to Osaka on our way to Kobe. Each -town seems prettier than the last, and Osaka is no exception. Our chief -object in going there was to visit the Arsenal, and according to the -special instructions of the Minister of War, we were most courteously -received by the chief, Colonel Ota, and given tea at his official -residence before being conducted over the arsenal. - -We are much struck that instead of having to teach Japan, there is -something that we can learn from her. Her civilization, coming, as it -has, so late in the decade, breaking in suddenly upon centuries of -dark ages, she has benefited by the experience of other nations, and -constructed her civilization on the best systems of other countries. -Here in this arsenal we see the newest improvements of science in -machines of every nation. Some are from England, some from Italy, -France, or Germany. The Arsenal is in beautiful order and keeps -employed a large number of workmen. They manufacture their own cannon, -and we passed through the large workshops, the smelting furnaces, and -saw mouldings and castings, the making and filling of cartridges. The -arsenal is inside the outer moat or glacis of the castle, and, with -canals and rivers, has through water communication to the sea and to -the forts on the coast. - -It is this rapid civilization, of which the arsenal is only an -example, that fills the traveller with admiration. Japan was only -opened to foreigners in 1868, and with the fall of the last Shogun and -the beginning of the present Mikado's reign European customs rapidly -spread. Some say that Japan has gone too fast, and has absorbed and -not digested sufficiently the forms of civilized life. The Japanese -went to Prussia for a constitution, and call their Parliament the -Diet; to England for their railway system, which was built, organized, -and worked at first by English engineers and firemen. They went to -France and Germany for an army organization, borrowing their blue and -scarlet infantry uniforms with white leggings from the French, and -their artillery uniform of blue and yellow from Germany. To France -again for their culinary art; for which these Japanese have a latent -talent, making excellent cooks. To England again for her model of Court -etiquette and nobles' titles, and then again to Germany for medicine. -The great reaction that followed naturally in the course of this rapid -innovation is not yet dead. The struggle is still going on, as one can -easily see, but a few years hence the revolution will be complete, -and Japan will cease to be so intensely fascinating to foreigners. It -presents, perhaps, the most wonderful page in the history of the world: -this deposition of the Shogun, the reinstatement of the old dynasty, -a great revolution in a remarkable intelligent country, perfectly -bloodless, of short duration, and changing the whole face and destinies -of the land. - -But these Japanese civilize so fast, that now there is scarcely a -European employed in their State departments. They are very proud of -this, and gradually European agents for their steamships, companies, -the managers of banks and commercial houses are being dismissed, or -superseded by Japanese, who take the management into their own hands. - -But to return to Osaka. If the castle at Nagoya is so well worth -seeing, this one of Osaka is equally so, for it is the exact -counterpart of the other, only minus the keep and the dolphins. There -are the same outer and inner moats, the same white plaster walls -edged with crenellated bronze tiles, resting on stone walls, guarded -at the four corners with those square towers, loopholed in several -storeys; but I think that the perfectly gigantic stones of the walls -are even more colossal than at Nagoya, for there are several opposite -the entrance by the gateway and the guard-room, that measure at least -twelve feet square. It will always remain one of the wonders of Japan, -how these stones, with the primitive appliances of the earlier Shoguns, -were ever placed in position. The open square of the inner moat is -now a garden, and the palace has been used to accommodate the General -and his staff. It is worth climbing up to the top of the walls for -the splendid view over the plain, always bordered by those chains of -mountains, that run as a prickly backbone from north to south of Japan. - -Osaka is a charming town. It is called the Venice of Japan, and with -its flowing rivers and canals intersecting the streets, its high, -arched bridges thrown across on a single sweep, its grassy banks and -avenues of weeping willows, it is fitly likened to that Queen City of -the sea. The houses are built on piles projecting over the water, and -narrow passages in between, lead down to the stone steps, where there -are multitudes of boats. - -To stand on one of the bridges and watch the ceaseless ebb and flow of -the changing stream of life, is a dream of delight, only to be compared -to standing on the Bridge of Galata at Constantinople. Blue-coated -coolies, with their bare brown legs, roped to heavy carts, with their -encouraging grunts; itinerant sellers slung with bamboo trays of -vegetables; jinrikishas by the hundred, pedestrians jostled from side -to side, closed sedan chairs, from behind the curtains of which peer -out priests whose way is cleared by running attendants, for it is a -day of ceremony, with much coming and going from the temples--all this -kaleidoscopic stream, accompanied by the warning cries, and the dull -thud of the echoing wood pavement, is what we see. And then look up -and down the river, with a vista of bridges, and see the irregular -mass of brown houses, winding round the bend of the stream, with poles -on the roof, hung with waving blue cottons, placed there to dry, and -the overhanging balconies, from which men are fishing. And then the -scenes of river life--the brown shiny figures bathing and plunging in a -cool bath, the hundreds of sampans moored by the banks, where reside a -large aquatic population, and the high-peaked prows of others, which, -propelled along by six oarsmen, again remind one of the gondolas of -Venice. There are other sampans, which, with one square brown sail -set, come skimming down the canals before the afternoon breeze. Yes, -Osaka is a charming place, and these river scenes passed in crossing -the bridges, add to the never-ending joys of the dark, narrow streets, -compressed on to the restricted peninsulas of land. - -Having done our duty by the arsenal, and to our good constituents at -Sheffield, we sit out and have tea on the balcony of the hotel, and -then go for a prowl in the dusk round the streets. - -Then succeeded one of those lovely evenings. I shall never forget -those sunsets and twilight evenings, with their pale, washed skies, -that we had in Japan. They only last for a short half hour, but they -are entrancing. If you watch carefully, you may see the shadows -lengthening, but after the brightest and hottest afternoon, suddenly -the colour of the sun seems to go out of everything, and in its place -steal up soft shadows, the vista of streets grow dim, and darkness -falls into the little open shop fronts, whilst the sky is suffused with -the palest wash of lilac or saffron. The jinrikisha bulbous lights come -out, one by one, like glow-worms, and the single lamp lights a dark -interior. And then as we pass across some street, which lies to the -west, we see a blaze of orange, lying low on the horizon, where the sun -has just dipped. It becomes cold and chilly for an hour, and then begin -the fairy scenes of night, in a Japanese town. - -It is an hour in the train from Osaka to Kobe, where we arrived at -eight o'clock. - -Kobe is a pretty seaport, girt round, close at hand, by great -mountains, up into which the streets run. It is too cosmopolitan -and European to be very interesting. But from the handsome Oriental -houses, with their pale buff and grey tints, the deep balconies with -green blinds of the foreign consulates on the Bund--from the curio -shops, Europeanized like Yokohama, you can pass into the quaintest -and brightest native bazaar, where from feeling yourself in Europe -(especially if you are staying at the French Oriental Hotel), you can -suddenly plunge back again into native Japan. We find the steamer of -the Nippon Company in quarantine, by reason of a cholera death on board -and coming from Shanghai, an infected port; so we have to wait for two -days. - -On one afternoon we went up to the waterfall in one of the green -mountains, crowned with straggling pine trees, to see sunset over -the harbour. After having hovered round and inspected half the gold -Buddhas for sale in Japan, now that we have reached the last place of -departure, we have at length bought one. Of course, directly we had -done so, we immediately saw a much better one in an adjacent shop. I -cannot help feeling that it is a matter for thankfulness that we are -leaving this seductive country, not ruined, it is true, but greatly -impoverished! - -I was glad that to the end the enchantment continued, and we shall -carry away the memory of that last evening in Japan on board the -Japanese Mail Company's steamer, the _Saikio Maru_. This line is -excellent and the ships the perfection of comfort. - -We saw the sunset from the deck, behind the peaked mountains of -Kobe, with their dragon-armed fir trees outlined atop, and against -the hundred masts of a fleet of sampans, the pale grey-green sky -so deliciously soft and milky. There was a little white Japanese -man-of-war mysteriously covered over, and ships of all nations coming -from all parts of the world, in port; and from over the dark waters of -the harbour, comes the low crooning chant from the sampans, towing in a -huge junk. - -As the darkness gathered the lights from Kobe, came out against the -sable background of lofty mountains clustering thickly along the -Bund, and reflecting shining dots in the water, whilst arcs of light -march up the ascending roads. Black monsters, marked by red and green -eyes, are darting about the harbour, whilst puffing steam launches, -black lighters, and oar-propelled sampans are dimly seen. Over this -bewitching scene rises a crescent moon, with a trailing path of silver -on the waters, and in our last view of Japan, as is only right, there -are the jinrikisha lights on shore, drawn by their patient human -horses, their soft quivering lights running swiftly, hither and -thither, up and down. - -We have been for the last twenty hours on the Inland Sea of Japan. I -have spent the whole day on the bridge or in the bows of the _Saikio -Maru_, and the sea in its incomparable beauty surpasses all ideas -formed by written pictures. It is a succession of the most perfect -inland lakes, varying in breadth from forty miles to a few yards, -and with mountains rising around the shores. These mountains have a -peculiar look that I have seen nowhere else so marked. They have great -zig-zags of sands running up and down their sides, indicated by a -sparse vegetation. It gives to them a mottled and zebra appearance, and -this feature is common to them all. Many of their castle-like crags are -fringed with fir trees, whilst often their sides are deeply terraced -to the water's edge, and planted with paddy and sweet potatoes. Little -brown thatched villages, with their big roofs crowding down over the -mud walls, lie hidden up the many inlets and winding channels, or -nestle on the beach of the sea-shore. - -Time and again we look back on the undulating track of our course, -and cannot see the winding entrance now shut out by islands. We look -forward; there is a rounded shore. It is a perfect lake. Just as we -enter the narrowest and therefore most beautiful passage, the Captain -points out a barren cone, well ensconced behind several mainlands of -islands. Not so very long hence we shall be passing underneath, but -on the other side of that mountainous peak, and so it goes on, one -intricate strait succeeding another. - -The Inland Sea is a long procession of islands. The Japanese reckon -several thousands, but it would be an impossible task to count them, -as one by one they unfold themselves to us, as we steam among their -fantastic shapes. For there are islands of every imaginable form and -size, square and round with sugar-loaf cones, or extinguisher tops with -castellated summits, or small and four-sided like a floating haystack. -Some are so large that they are like the mainland, and others mere -thimble points. Here, there are three tiny islands formed of three -little rocks, with a tuft of palms, and joined by a spit of sand; -there, a barren heap of sand with a solitary fir tree on the top; or, -again, it is a mountain island with deep evergreens. - -Hundreds of junks come sailing by, with the pleasant swish of the water -against their keels, whilst even here they have screens of paper, -covering the wooden trellises of their sides. They are a perpetual -delight, these curious whimsically-fashioned vessels, with their -ancient prows standing high out of the water, recalling as they do the -old prints of the fleet of the Spanish Armada, of which they are exact -reproductions. Their one square sail is attached to a single mast, and -pulls up and down like a curtain on running strings, and the black -patch sewn on it denotes the owner's name. - -What makes the Inland Sea so beautiful? The Japanese themselves have -no name for it, nor have their poets ever sung its praises. I suppose -we must say it is the innumerable islands, though many of these are the -reverse of beautiful in themselves. Or is it the great ocean steamer -threading so swiftly the successive intricate windings and snake-like -passages? No. I think it is perhaps the ceaseless variety. Every minute -the scene changes; it is never the same for more than a few seconds, -and is often so beautiful that you want to look on both sides at once. -Certainly in the course of our many wanderings, we have never been -more pleased than with this Inland Sea. All the morning the sky was -overcast, and a purple haze rested lightly on the mountains, and the -sea was pale green. But in the afternoon, just as we reached the most -charming part by the northern course, the sun broke through, and we had -the long afternoon shadows, with softened sunlight, on this scene of -rare beauty. - -We have had, too, a wonderful conjunction of pleasures in a superb -sunrise, and a more exquisite sunset in one day. This morning at -Kobe I saw sunrise. At six o'clock the sky was heralded with crimson -glory. To-night the sun, as it always does in these Eastern latitudes, -sinks suddenly--a golden ball into an orange bed. It is going, going -slowly, until gone behind that purple range, and just as it is dying -the symmetry of the orb is cut into and spoilt by a jutting rock on -the mountains. Then, whilst darkness falls over the land, the golden -bed begins to glow and palpitate with colour, and spreads and spreads, -until the exquisite pink, and lilac and green, melt into the cobalt -vault above. The sea is extended in a tremulous sheet of dazzling -gold, and the black prows and the figures on the junks are cut in -Vandyck relief out of this gilded background. The silver moon rises -over a lighthouse on the other side of the ship. Soon little mackerel -clouds separate themselves, and float over the sky, and as we watch a -ruddy glow succeeds, growing blood-red, and bathing sky and sea in a -crimson flood, which dies, oh! so lingeringly and wistfully into purple -darkness. - -Nor is this all, for by-and-by, as we are looking over the bulwarks, -perhaps still a little awe-bound by this superb display of nature, a -great, green, electric wave rises up from the dark sea, thrown aside -by the ships' bows, and breaks away in gleaming particles. It is the -brilliant phosphorescence of the spawn of the sardine, which in daytime -is spread out like red dust upon the waves. Sometimes it is so bright -that the whole sea is alight, and in passing a channel ships have to -stop, being unable to see the coast. - -At two o'clock in the morning we stop to coal at Shimonoseki, in the -straits between the main island of Nippon and that of Kyushu. A party -of geishas, or dancing girls, come on board and go over the ship, and -I get up in time to see a row of little policemen with their coloured -lanterns going down the gangway. - -The next day, at midday, we again come into an even more beautiful -inland channel. Islands of emerald green are seen across a -white-flecked sapphire ocean on a glorious day--a line of white creamy -foam denting the black rock-bound coast, above which rise volcanic -strata of grey and black cliff of the most wonderful formations, -deformed and twisted into spinular columns and basaltic contortions, -and the unwieldy mass of the huge ship is made to double round sharp -angles, and avoid the conical islands sticking so irritatingly out in -the mid-ocean passage. In one place there is a lighthouse towering on a -rock so rugged and steep, that no path can be cut in the cliffs, and we -see the derrick and the basket which are used for letting people up and -down, from the boats to the platform of the phare. - -We are pointed out the place, where, in this far-distant island -of Japan, François de Xavier, in 1549, first landed to try and -Christianize the natives. We are in an inner channel. Far, far away, -beyond two grey islands on the sky line, lies Corea. Whichever way we -look there is a dotted circuit of islands, always of those whimsical -shapes. Occasionally, miles ahead, one little island will stand all -solitary amid the ocean, or in another you can see the half that has -fallen away, leaving a clear cut scar, an abrupt termination to the -island. But the most curious of all is an enormous bell-shaped rock, -standing erect in the ocean with a perfect arch through it. - -Captain Connor, the best and most genial of commanders, puts the ship -about that we may "kodak" it, and by degrees the slit of light opens -out into a perfect archway. - -Over the archipelago of islands, under a green mountain, lies Nagasaki, -and we find an entrance--a blind and mysterious one--into its harbour. - -The harbour of Nagasaki is very beautiful. It is "long and narrow, -winding in among the mountains like a Scotch firth." Every separate -mountain is terraced in green circles down to the water's edge, and -in each little conical hill the circles get narrower at the top. In -some, there are wooded knolls crowned by a chapel, with winding stone -steps, that lead up from the black torii on the banks, where prayers -are offered for sailors and the safe return of the fishing junks. We -pass at the entrance the round island of Pappenburg, where we can still -see the flight of steps, down which the Christians were thrown into the -sea 300 years ago. We get safely past the quarantine station, pitying -a British ship lying bound, with the yellow flag hoisted on her mast. -There are red lights, in the shape of a cross, strung from the masts -of a sunken vessel across our passage, for last week the captain of -this 400-ton brig took out the ballast, and a few hours afterwards she -suddenly heeled over and sank, drowning the captain's wife, who was in -the cabin, and the first officer. - -As we breast this landed-locked harbour, under the opal hues of a -delicate sunset, we give to it the palm (always excepting Sydney) over -all other harbours. At the head of the bay we see the town and the -handsome houses of the consulates on the Bund, and above that again -many more pleasantly situated houses, equally handsome and belonging to -missionaries. - -I do not wish to make any observations on the missionary question, -which, without special knowledge, it would be wrong to speak of, but I -must say that we have never heard any _resident_ of any foreign country -speak a single word in favour of the missionaries. On the contrary, -we are struck how they generally condemn them, I hope unjustly, as -mischievous, idle, and luxurious. - -As we come to our buoy opposite the town, thousands of lights, running -out in zig-zag lines into the harbour, seem to come out with one -accord, creeping in scattered dots of fire up the mountain sides, and -there with these myriads of twinkling lights, winking and blinking at -us like a thousand eyes, and with the dull splash of oars in the water, -we get such unrestful sleep as is possible on a ship in port. Now we -can well imagine the scene described thus:-- - -"Every year, from the 13th to the 15th of August, the whole population -of Nagasaki celebrate the Bon Matsuri, or the Feast of the Dead. The -first night all the tombs of those who died in the past year are -illuminated with bright-coloured paper lanterns. On the second and -third nights all the graves without exception are so illuminated, and -the families of Nagasaki install themselves in the cemeteries, where -they give themselves up, in honour of their ancestors, to plentiful -libations. The bursts of uproarious gaiety resound from terrace to -terrace, and rockets fired at intervals seem to blend with the giddy -human noises the echoes of the celestial vault. The European residents -repair to the ships in the bay to see from the distance the fairy -spectacle of the hills, all resplendent with rose-coloured lights. - -"But on the third night, suddenly, at about two o'clock in the -morning, long processions of bright lanterns are seen to descend from -the heights, and group themselves on the shore of the bay, while the -mountains gradually return to obscurity and silence. It is fated that -the dead embark and disappear before twilight. The living have plaited -them thousands of little ships of straw, each provisioned with some -fruit and a few pieces of money. The frail embarkations are charged -with all the coloured lanterns which were used for the illumination -of the cemeteries; the small sails of matting are spread to the -wind, and the morning breeze scatters them round the bay, where they -are not long in taking fire. It is thus that the entire flotilla is -consumed, tracing in all directions large trails of fire. The dead -depart rapidly. Soon the last ship has foundered, the last light is -extinguished, and the last soul has taken its departure again from this -earth." - -The next morning we were ashore before breakfast to see the fish -market, for Nagasaki is one of the largest fishing ports in the world, -and it has been proved that there are 600 specimens of fish brought -into this market, by a gentleman who has drawn them and written a book -on the subject. - -Nagasaki has several canals, and is a quaint little town developed from -a fishing village, but with nothing of much interest in it. We spend -the day as usual in the shops, plunging with a desperation born of the -feeling that it is really our last chance of buying in Japan; we are in -an agony of fear up to the last minute lest our purchases should not -arrive before the steamer sails at 4 o'clock. - -And it is in the dull light of a clouded afternoon that we glide out -of the beautiful harbour of Nagasaki, and in a few hours even the -coast line is lost to us, and fair Nippon, the Land of the Rising Sun -(such an appropriate name for the swiftly progressing Island Empire) -is a remembrance of the past. Bright memories will linger with us in a -medley dream, of rosy sunsets, of clear skies in those marvellous pale -washes, of gaudy temples with their moss-grown steps, hallowed by the -solemn hush around, mingling with the pictures of those queer, dark -little shops, of tiny gardens comprised in tiny courtyards, of gentle -little men and women in flapping cotton garments, of golden lacquer, -red and black, of gorgeous kakemonos, bronzes, cloisonné, of delicately -tinted textures, and above all of solemn gilt Buddhas, seated on -lotus-leaved pedestals, and gleaming at us from out dark corners. - -We pass out into the grey space of the Yellow Sea. - - - - -CHAPTER VIII. - -THE YELLOW LAND. - - -The turbid orange-coloured waters of the great Yangtze are around -us--"the river of the golden sands," far too poetical a name for the -muddy waters, that with a strong current swish and eddy against the -ship's side. - -The spirit of travel that rises strong within you as you approach the -landing to a new country, is discouraged by that thin line of flat, -ugly land, which is all we see on that dull October morning, through a -mist of rain, of the coast of China. - -The Yellow Land! Rightly named, indeed. The sea is yellow, the rivers -are yellow, the land is yellow, the people, too, are yellow--and the -Dragon Flag is yellow. Yellow, too, might China be with gold if only -her rulers, the mandarins, would let her people give scope to their -abilities, develop the rich resources of an as yet barely touched -country, and strike ahead among the nations of the world. - -We had anchored at the Saddles, some little Islands with a fancied -resemblance to that equine article, and then moved up with the tide, -opposite to the fleet of sampan masts at Woosung; but still the water -on the bar is too low, and they whistle for a steam tug to take us -off the Saikio Maru, and up fifteen miles of the deadly uninteresting -reaches of the Wung-Poo--the last tributary of the Yangtze--to Shanghai. - -What a mighty river this Yangtze is. The name signifies the Child -of the Ocean, and the Chinese have various others for it, such as -"The Father of Rivers," "The Girdle of China." "It is the richest -river in the world--richest in navigable waters, in mighty cities, in -industrious human beings, in affluent tributaries, in wide margins -of cultivated lands of inexhaustible fertility. This vast expanse of -turpid fresh water is saturated with the loam of fields 1500 miles -away." The Yangtze rises in Central Asia, and drains an area of 600,000 -square miles of Midland China. - -We pass hundreds of junks, the quaintest ships afloat in the world, -with their sides decorated with brilliant blue and red frescoes, and -sails of bamboo matting; the all-seeing black and white eye is in the -bow of the boat, for no Chinese junk would sail without this occult -protection. - -Lost to us are the beauties of the palm and flower-covered Bund, the -pride of Shanghai (on this first occasion), for we land in a drenching -rain, and seek shelter in a dirty jinrikisha lined with green and red -oilskin, and drawn by a feeble coolie--and this began the first of -our disadvantageous comparisons between China and Japan. By all means -let everyone visit China first, with its dirty mud villages, devoid -ever of picturesqueness, its swarming, grasping, sullen people, and -leave Japan--dear, clean, little Japan, with its picturesque streets, -and charming, willing little fairies to the last. From that moment of -landing I took a repugnance to China, and the more I saw of it the more -the dislike grew. - -An hour after reaching Shanghai, we were told of a steamer leaving for -Tientsin immediately--a cargo boat, it was true, but the captain was -willing to take us. The last bale of goods was being lowered into the -hold, the Blue Peter flying at her masthead; a hasty decision being -necessary without more reflection, and, being most anxious to push on -to Peking, we embarked on board. - -The _Chïng Ping_ is a Chinese collier of 500 tons, trading between the -coast ports, and with a single cabin for a chance passenger. A glance -was sufficient to show us the fate in store for us for the next few -days, but it was then too late. As we scudded out into the Yellow Sea, -in a storm of wind and rain we began to suffer. The horrors of that -long night are yet like a bad dream. We heard bell after bell strike, -and thought that dawn would never break, for the _Chïng Ping_ rolled to -desperation, shipping heavy seas, whilst the wind blew like a hurricane -through the "alloway" under which was our cabin, blowing showers of -spray in at the door, while on closing it we were suffocated. We were -unable to move, for it was impossible to stand, and in total darkness, -for the matches had early disappeared amid the chaos of articles on the -floor, which we helplessly heard rolling about and bounding against -the walls. Nor was this the worst; for the rain and spray leaked -through the woodwork of the cabin, and soon our berths and clothes were -saturated, and deadly sick, with no dry place in which to place our -heads, we lay drenched through the weary hours of that dreadful night. - -It was a sorry sight, a scene of wreckage and despair, that good -Captain Crowlie looked in upon the next morning, when we begged to be -put ashore anywhere, at any cost, rather than spend such another night -on board. He was so kind to us, taking us up and establishing us in his -own cabin on the hurricane deck, where we passed the remainder of the -voyage. - -For the past few days we had been crossing the stormy Gulf of Pechele, -with the now grey, now purple, coast-line of the great province of -Chihli to port. It is late on the fourth afternoon that we are on the -bridge with the captain, all anxiety to know whether we shall cross the -bar at the mouth of the Peiho to-night, for he fears that we are just -two hours too late to catch the flood tide. - -The entrance to the Peiho is most extraordinary; for there is no sign -of land, no banks visible to indicate that it is a river, but only the -bulbous buoy of the lighter opposite the bar, rising above the horizon, -growing clearer every minute. It is determined to make a desperate -effort, and everybody is on the alert; officers at their various posts, -the engineer putting on all steam, the steering-gear connected to the -upper bridge, whilst the leadsman, a quaint Chinese figure perched out -on an overhanging gangway, is set to work. At each call the water gets -shallower, and decreases at every throw from fifteen feet to thirteen -feet down to nine, and then the flat bottom of the _Chïng Ping_ -ensconces itself comfortably on the bed of mud, and the fatal "Let go -anchor" sounds from the bridge. We stay there for the night, a sudden -silence falling on the ship in the silver moonlight, save for the -convulsive sobbing of the engines, giving forth their last oppression -of steam. Alas! we shall not sleep in Tientsin to-night. - -At 2 o'clock in the morning the commotion, as we get under weigh, -begins afresh, and no sleep is possible after that, for there is the -frantic whirring of the steering-gear just outside the cabin, as the -sharp commands from the bridge, make the wheel race from port to -starboard. We stop opposite the Taku Custom House, and whistle ever -louder and more angrily for the sleeping officer, who eventually -comes reluctantly on board. And then in the moonlight we glide by the -crumbling banks, past mud villages, silent as the grave, lying in deep -shadows, until morning glimmers in the purple red of the sky, and we -pay our morning orisons to the rising sun, in its glory, over the -well-cultivated, intensely flat plains, and the cracked mud banks of -the great Peiho. - -The navigation of this river is the most wonderful series of nautical -evolutions. The steamers are especially built with flat bottoms for -the service, and must not draw more than ten feet of water. It is -without exception the most exasperating bit of navigation, calling -forth the anathemas alike of captain and passengers. There is first -of all the bar, where at high water there is often only from ten to -eleven feet. Here it is possible to wait for several days before there -is enough water for a steamer to cross, and in most cases the cargo -has to be taken out to lighten the ship on one side, and replaced on -the other, or again sometimes it may be too rough for the lighters to -come alongside. Then commence the windings, so sharp that steam is shut -off, whilst the bows of the ship are across the stream, and the stern -is all but on the bank, the dangers of going aground being considerably -increased by the shallowness of the water. To give an idea of the -serpentine course of the river--a steamer which we passed in a bend on -the port side, two hundred yards further on will be to starboard. The -effect produced by this is, that the large sails of the sampans are a -succession of ships sailing inland, in contrary directions. - -We pass the mud forts of Taku, where the great battle of 1860 took -place, when the allied forces were on their march to Peking. The -Chinese idea of fortifications, as a rule, consists largely of walls -of mud with a hard battened surface, and these forts are intended for -the protection of the Peiho, but really their best one rests in the bar -at its mouth. There is the embankment yonder of China's only railway. -It runs from Taku to Tientsin. Fancy a country of four million square -miles, with a population of as many millions as there are days in the -year, with but one single railway of a few miles! Yet such is the case; -China is still in the shadow of the dark ages. - -The morning mists gather into a thin vapour and roll upwards, showing -miles of fields, cultivated like kitchen gardens, interspersed with -mud villages, where the houses are made of wattles plastered over with -the earth they stand on, with chimneys formed of a cone of mud, and -paper windows. In wet weather and floods these houses often partially -dissolve, or subside altogether. But then they are so easily rebuilt. -Here the urchins come out and revel in the murky wash in our wake, -whilst the sampan propellers push hurriedly off from the bank, lest -we land them, as indeed we did one, high and dry after our swell -had subsided. Hundreds of coolies are trudging along, with their -bamboo poles slung across their shoulders, whilst others squatted -on the ground occupied with that B.C., or ancient Eastern method of -irrigation, the automatically worked water-wheel. - -We now have the disagreeable excitement of going aground, a gentle -bump on a flat bank, where we stick fast, and recall all the stories -which we have been hearing, of steamers staying aground for a week or -ten days. Meanwhile the screw churns away at the liquid mud, and a -crowd collects on the causeway above, and yet we remain fast. It is -after half an hour's manœuvring that we get off and proceed through -the few more perilous bends still left, with a few more hair-breadth -escapes. We see the tall chimneys, covering a large area, of the -Arsenal, and then the Pagoda, with its white umbrellas, overlooking -the fort and military exercise ground for the troops, and then we are -nearing Tientsin. It is pleasant in the first view of Tientsin to -be greeted by a familiar remembrance of England, in the towers of a -miniature Windsor Castle, the Victoria Hall of the English Settlement, -that tower above the dust-coloured hovels. It is in strange contrast -to the two cages on the banks, fixed on the top of tall bamboo poles, -where are seen the heads of two criminals. Doubtless they were executed -on the spot where the crime was committed, as is the Chinese custom. - -We anchor in the river, and amid a deafening roar, and the shoving, -scraping and pushing of hundreds of filthy sampans, we land on the Bund -of Tientsin, and are settling into the somewhat uninviting quarters of -the Astor House, when Mr. Byron Brennan, H. M.'s Consul, kindly sends -for us, and in an hour we are installed in luxury, and have washed away -the unpleasant reminiscences of our journey across the Yellow Sea in a -collier. - -The English Consulate looks out over the Bund, but it is such a -different Bund to the usual one of handsome houses and gardens touching -the water's edge. This one is piled up with merchandise; great bales -of goods, covered with matting, are stacked under the trees or strewn -about the ground, and through the wide-opened windows come all day -the shouts and cries of the strong-limbed coolies, as they lade and -unlade the ships. A strange silence falls over the busy scene of the -day, at night. But in another month or two the Bund will be a model -of neatness, swept and clean, and all this bustling scene will be -hushed under the spell of winter, for the Peiho freezes in the end of -November or beginning of December. Merchants are now hurrying to send -away the last of their merchandise, and residents are receiving their -last supplies before the river is closed. During those winter months -Tientsin is entirely cut off from the outer world, save for the mails -which are brought overland. No one can enter or leave the town to go -south, and business is at a standstill until spring breaks up the ice. -This isolation comes suddenly, for we heard of a steamer that went -aground below Tientsin, and in one night was frozen in by a coat of -ice a foot thick. A British gunboat is anchored under the Consulate, -sent up since the late riots at Wuhu, and it is a great comfort to the -English residents to feel that she is to spend the winter here. - -We passed a quiet forenoon with a regular feast of the _Times_ and of -home news. Then in the evening Mrs. Brennan took me for a walk round -the European Concession, down Consulate Road, where the consulates -of the various nations are situated, to the Gordon Hall and Victoria -Gardens. Five years ago this was a mud-dried waste--strange contrast to -these pretty zoological gardens, with its tennis courts, and well laid -out paths, and Chinese band playing. The Hall is the centre of social -life, where dances and public entertainments are held, and it has a -capital Library and Reading-room. At the entrance are stands of guns, -belonging to the Volunteer corps of foreign gentlemen, who are ready to -come to arms should necessity arise. - -Like so many other places of this kind, Tientsin has but one drive out -into the country, and along this we go up on to the city wall. We stand -on the high elevation of the deeply arched bridge, and look out on the -flat swamps of mudland, on the surrounding marshy and unhealthy pools. -It is mud in some shape or form whichever way you look, it is seen -alike in houses, walls and roads, and it is certainly very like what I -pictured China from reading books of travel. - -The Europeans on their small spotty Chinese ponies, or driving in -their cabriolet carriages, are returning from their evening exercise. -Tientsin seems to be a pleasant place socially, particularly in the -cold though bright winter, when business is slack on account of -the frozen river, and the little community join together to amuse -themselves with skating and sailing of ice-boats. And so soon as the -first dust storm spoils the river ice, they enclose this pond we are -passing, and make a covered skating rink. - -My husband has just returned from a visit to the great Viceroy, Li -Hung Chang, who sent soon after our arrival to say that he would be -glad to see him. So at five o'clock he and Mr. Brennan started out in -state-green palanquins, the official colour being green in distinction -to the ordinary blue, with a numerous retinue and an outrider on a -white horse to clear the way, and present the Chinese card, a single -sheet of long pink paper. On arrival at the Viceregal Yâmen, exterior -and surroundings of which were little in keeping with the high offices -of state held by His Excellency, the chairs were carried into an inner -courtyard, flanked by wooden shields, bearing all the titles of the -Viceroy. The visitors were conducted to the small foreign reception -rooms, where His Excellency immediately joined them. - -Li Hung Chang is a tall handsome man of seventy, six feet four inches -high, and was dressed in a grey plush robe. He is frequently styled the -Bismarck of China, and is certainly the most prominent and influential -statesman of this vast Chinese Empire. For many years Li, the Viceroy, -has held his present post of Governor-General of the large Province of -Chihli, and unites with it that of Grand Secretary, Guardian of the -Heir Apparent, and what is most important of all to us, Commissioner -for Trade, in which capacity all Foreign Affairs are referred to him -from Peking. In the conversation, His Excellency placed great stress -upon his sincere desire to develop closer trade relations with England, -and took great interest in the details of the trade of the British -Empire which C. gave him. The interview lasted about an hour, the -Viceroy conducting his guests back to their chairs, and sending me his -photograph. - -[Illustration: A Chinese Street.] - -There are two ways of reaching Peking. You may ride or drive in those -terrible country carts the eighty miles, staying one or two nights in -an indescribably dirty Chinese inn, or go, as we decided, in a house -boat, 120 miles up the Peiho. - -At two o'clock the next afternoon, we drove in jinrikishas for an -hour through the heart of the native quarter. This is my first view -of a real Chinese city, and my early impressions are comprised in -the all-pervading, all-powerful, smothering filth and dirt, in the -revolting smells and disgusting sights; my next, in the jostling of -crowds of coolies wheeling enormous iron-bound bales on wheelbarrows, -of carts drawn by teams of mules, donkeys or oxen, of equestrians, -pedestrians, jinrikishas, and sedan chairs, crowded into a six-foot -wide street, curtained with bamboo mats above, producing a bewildering -pandemonium. Passing the particularly squalid corner where is situated -the Yâmen, we see the twin towers of the Roman Catholic Cathedral. They -stand there as a solemn reminder of the dangers which yet threaten the -Settlement, and of the fanatical people they are surrounded by, for it -was here in 1870 that there was that awful massacre of Roman Catholic -nuns, followed by the pillage of the Convent and Cathedral. - -On arrival at the bridge of boats, we find our house-boat, Chinese boy, -provisions, luggage and crew of coolies safely on board, and after many -objurations from the delayed passengers, a passage by the removal of -one of the boats is made for us, and we begin our long journey up the -Peiho. - -This house-boat is very comprehensive on a small scale, for we have a -sitting-room and bed-room and kitchen. There is a tiny promenade deck -in the bows, then down two steps and you are in a room with a bench, -a table and two stools, the door being formed of movable planks of -wood. Through an elegant arabesque of woodwork, screened with paper, we -can see the raised floor on which are spread our mattresses with red -quilts. Behind a similar screen is the kitchen, a few square inches, -under the shadow of the helm, where our clever "Boy," who is cook, -valet and interpreter in one, turns out the most deliciously cooked -and varied dishes, with a _batterie de cuisine_, consisting of a few -tin saucepans and an iron brazier of charcoal. As for the crew, they -sleep on deck anywhere, and keep their provisions in the hold. The -flat-bottomed boat has an arched roof of matting laid on bamboo sticks. -It is clean, for I only saw one black-beetle, but is only moderately -air and water-tight. Our tiny domicile is dominated by an enormous sail -which is hoisted up and down on running strings. We either tow or pole, -or sail, according to the wind and stream. - -The vast and varied river life is before us. The banks for some miles -above Tientsin are lined with these ugly sampans, their tattered -sails hanging in ribbons, their decks strewn with _débris_ where the -naked children disport themselves, and the women steer at the helm; -for in these sampans generations are born, live, and die, and they -are coated too with the dirt of many decades. There are fishermen on -the bank where, projecting out of the little hut which he inhabits, -is a net stretched wide on bamboo poles, baited with the white of egg -spread on the meshes. He lowers it slowly up and down, and at each -dip we see the little silver-scaled fish jumping about in the net. -There are children dabbling in the mud, true mud-larks, and women -washing their clothes. We espy a bridge over a tributary, with a -single graceful arch, so curved as to be half an oval, and with some -houses, a willow tree and pig-tailed Chinaman, calling to remembrance -the willow-patterned plate of our childhood. We pass several covered -Chinese gun-boats,--war-junks,--with their blue and white striped -awnings, and a Maxim gun in the bows kept for the defence of the Peiho, -and the patrolling of the river. - -We get out into the country at length, between high mud banks, and by -a continuous succession of villages, their brown dusty walls abutting -on to the hard-trodden towing path, whilst around is that careful -cultivation resembling a succession of kitchen gardens, with its plots -of lettuces of enormous size, of cabbages, turnips and onions; and -the vertical pole of the water tank is always amongst them. A place -is hollowed out in the bank, where, from a cross plank, the bucket -attached to the pole is pulled down to the water, when the weighted -end bears the bucket up and the water is emptied into the channels -that surround each plot. Morning and evening you see hundreds of these -automatically-working figures, thus irrigating their fields. The -population appear ill-disposed towards foreigners, they collect in the -villages and on the sampans and point and jeer at me, for the Chinese -keep their women at home, and are shocked at the way "Barbarians," as -they call us, travel with their wives. - -After punting for a little while, three of the coolies begin to tow, -but it is tedious work, as our line has constantly to be undone or -passed round the masts of other sampans. Indeed, all the way there are -processions of these vessels crawling up the river heavily laden with -cargoes of rice, salt, camels' hair, sheep's wool, and vegetables, with -their four or six towers, whose brown figures are bent double against -the line, patiently staggering along for mile after mile against the -current. Our coolies are very willing and cheerful, springing ashore -to begin that weary work of tacking against stream, and subsisting on -scanty meals of rice, cabbage and maccaroni, which we watch them, at -midday and sunset, tucking rapidly into their mouths with chop sticks. -Sometimes they sing in chorus to encourage themselves, with a soft -crooning chant. - -As evening approaches, columns of smoke rise from the stern of the -sampans, showing the preparation of the evening meal, and the mists -gather low over the villages. We see the great high road to Peking, -raised on a mud embankment, that now and again keeps company with the -river; it is bordered here with an avenue of whispering willows, and -against the orange sunset come such picturesque figures along it. Now a -little lady, with her pantaloons reaching to her little feet, tippeting -along as if she must fall at every step, a horseman on a shaggy -white pony, _running_ along without rising in the saddle, a big man -overshadowing a tiny donkey, a jinrikisha, a country cart with oxen, or -one of those ancient wooden cabriolets, all outlined in black relief -against the yellow sky. - -We go to sleep with the sound of the water gently gurgling against the -bottom of the boat, the croaking of the frogs on the banks, whilst our -patient coolies plod automatically along. They anchor for a few hours -in the middle of the night opposite a large village, whence the regular -muffled tom-tom of the watchman, a deep and solemn tone, is wafted -across to us. At three in the morning there is a rushing sound as of -wind and water, and to our great joy we find that we are sailing before -a brisk wind. - -The scenery of the Peiho is repelling in its ugliness, and wearisome -from its extreme monotony. The country is absolutely flat, and there -is nothing, now that the harvest is carried in, but a parched saline -plain, of mud and yellow grass, extending for hundreds of miles all -around. - -[Illustration: Our Home on the Peiho.] - -The only hills are those of the graves--these unwieldy mounds of -battened earth, that stand in rows along the bank, or are collected -in a field--a family burial place, with mounds of varying sizes. The -greater the man, the larger is the tumulus raised over him. Then -there are other and more disagreeable ones, where the coffin has been -temporarily earthed above ground, awaiting perhaps a favourable moment -for burial, or sufficient funds to take the deceased back to the place -of his birth; for this is the dearly cherished hope of every Chinaman, -and often, when old age approaches, he returns to his native place to -be ready to die there. An even more objectionable custom is that of -putting coffins down in open fields, or along the roads. We saw one -covered in red standing like this, just outside a village, and you find -them in the same way all over China. There is a superstition that it -is lucky to bury within sight of water or in a place which commands a -view, and that is why we see such rows of graves for miles and miles by -the river bank. To the Chinese their burial is the most important thing -of life. They prepare their coffins and keep them in their houses for -years beforehand, though their unwieldy size and solidity take up much -ill-spared space, and the object of every woman of the poorest class is -to save enough for her grave-clothes. It has been truly said that the -whole face of China is burrowed under by these graves. - -The turpid yellow waters of the Peiho swirl against our boat, -particularly at the reaches, where the current is strongest. The -harvest is over, the poppy fields are bare, and there are only a few -tall straggly castor-oil plants along the banks. A few, very few -coolies, in loose blue cotton garments, are at work, ploughing with -ancient and rude ploughshares. The teams they use are delightfully -mixed. You may often see an ox and horse, a donkey and a mule all -pulling together. And the same useful mixture is seen in the carts -that resemble old Roman chariots, crawling along the towing path, -where a bull with a tandem donkey is a favourite team. These donkeys -are beautiful animals; small, but with sleek grey, brown and black -coats, with the well-marked neck rings, and line down the centre of -the back. We meet solitary pedestrians trudging along with their heads -down against the wind, and we wonder whence they came and whither they -are going, for we are now only passing isolated villages at great -distances. In some of the few we sail by, the mud walls surrounding the -villages have a graceful openwork arabesque at the top, and in one, to -the sound of much tom-tomming, a festival was progressing, at which all -the inhabitants (as there were none to be seen) are evidently assisting. - -The windings described by the Peiho are aggravating. The actual -distance traversed, after a series of bends, being equal to about half -a mile as the crow flies. Again and again we see the extraordinary -phenomenon of a row of sails walking inland; and how picturesque these -brown-patched sails look, as extended by the wind they glide in single -file against the sky line. The wind is a subject of great anxiety -on the Peiho, because if it is ahead one the crew make fast to the -bank at once, and await a favourable change; and even if it is, as -to-day, behind us, the river winds so much that we box every point of -the compass, and so it is not always to our advantage. We watch our -progress with great interest; and now we are scudding gaily before a -lovely fresh breeze, with the pleasant sound of rushing water under the -keel, whilst the big sail overhead balloons out and swells hopefully. -To this succeeds a calm, when a little punting with the long poles is -necessary, or a deep bend when the wind and stream are ahead of us, -and which means a painful slow bit of tacking, when the men strain the -whole weight of their bodies against the tow line, to progress at all. -Again a pleasant rush, the puff of wind catching our ponderous sail, -and we scud merrily past the banks. And how our coolies enjoy this; -stretching themselves out, and, sunning on the deck, smoke their pipes. -So it goes on all day. - -We passed several gaily-decorated junks belonging to a great mandarin -with the peacock's feather over the door, generally accompanied by -another with the household; also the ex-French _Chargé d'Affaires_, -Monsieur Ristelhueber, and his family, returning to France from Peking, -and with whom we afterwards had the pleasure of travelling homewards -for a month on the French mail. - -The approach to Peking, which signifies the "Gate of Heaven," is -indeed synonymous with the biblical definition in one particular, for -it is narrow. This morning the Peiho has dwindled into a ditch between -extensive mud flats, and we are constantly aground, our five brown -coolies struggling and sweating in the quagmire of soft mud under a -broiling sun. It is weary, weary work this slow progress, and we chafe -at all the delays of crossing the tow line from one bank to another, -to avoid the now continuous succession of sampans, many of which are -in worse condition than ourselves, for the men have to get out into -the water to push the boat along; for should we not arrive at Tungchau -by noon, we must abandon all hope of reaching Peking to-night, as the -gates close at sunset. There is a head wind, with a strong current -racing down the narrow channel against us, and we sadly mark how -crawling is our progress by the landmarks on the bank. And so the long -hours of morning pass, and, just as we are losing hope, we see the blue -tower of the pagoda at Tungchau, rising up from the plain, and there -are only seven miles more with an hour to do it in, and we shall be at -our journey's end. We afterwards found that, favoured by the wind, we -had made almost, if not quite, a record passage of forty-six hours, and -that many boats take from four to five days in coming up from Tientsin. - -We find an anchorage at Tungchau among fleets of sampans, and in -half an hour our boy has procured three carts, packed in our luggage, -and we are ready to begin the fifteen miles journey to Peking. Let -me describe these carts. The body is formed of a few planks of wood, -with a hood covered in blue or black stuff. The wheels are of circular -pieces of wood, they are guiltless of springs, and are drawn by mules. -They resemble an old mediæval chariot, and indeed they date from and -are exactly the same as were in use in the tenth century. There is no -seat inside, and instead of sitting on the floor, it is easiest to -ride on the shaft, with your legs hanging over; but I did not know -this in time. Before you have been half an hour in this vehicle you -cry out for mercy--for an instant's cessation of this agonizing mode -of progression, from the unbearable bumping and concussion. And when -at length you become numbed by the pain and discomfort, the intense -weariness that succeeds, makes you sure that another jolt will be -unbearable, until at last you close your eyes, feeling that nothing -but the end of the journey is of the remotest consequence. The roads -are somewhat softened by the loose dust. Still, when you tumble into -a ditch on one side, with a jar that is felt to your most internal -depths, and are then run up on to a bank on the other, you can have -some idea of what we suffered during that journey from Tungchau to -Peking. What must have been the agonies endured by Sir Harry Parkes, -and our old friend Sir Henry Loch, as they journeyed in these same -springless carts to Peking, but with their hands bound behind them and -over _the stone road_ that takes a more circuitous route! - -[Illustration: How I went to Peking.] - -We passed through the outskirts of Tungchau, through some blind lanes -of mud walls, with doors in them leading to the courts, round which the -houses are built. Soon we are out on the road--no, it is not a road, -but a rough track with several trails, and made of millions of tons -of dust, that rise in impenetrable clouds by the passing of a single -donkey--dust that smells and tastes of the garbage of China proper, -that envelops everything in a white mist, that, easily raised, subsides -as lingeringly. The embankments are crumbling into dust, as are the -numerous walls of these hideous earth villages which line the road, and -are perched on the top of them. The whole face of the land is parched -and burnt. The willows are streamers of dust, and the other trees are -coated grey with the same. And the road: it is a succession of deep -gutters, of holes, of upheavals of sandbanks, running in the middle or -across the road, scarcely defined from the surrounding fields--and this -is the great highway to the Great City of the unknown Emperor. - -We pass cavalcades of carts, and the gaudily-dressed and painted -Chinese women inside peer out curiously at us; bullock carts laden with -merchandise, parties of horsemen, a caravan of camels, and endless -strings of donkeys, bearing away the last of the students from the -late annual examinations at the capital. Many of these wear goggle -spectacles, the glasses of which are at least four inches in diameter, -and enclosed in broad tortoiseshell rims. With their loose coats they -tower over and bulge out above their tiny quadrupeds, but these sleek, -good-looking little donkeys go cheerfully jig-jogging along, with -their blue-coated owners urging them from behind. In the oasis of a -few trees, the mules are occasionally watered from the tubs that stand -ready filled, for the traffic along this highway is ceaseless. - -The sun, as it got lower, scorched mercilessly into the hood, and the -dust in its parching aridity became still more trying. The mule began -to tire, and the driver cruelly flogged it, while the monotonous waste -seems endless. - -Absolute indifference, with a deadly weariness, had long since taken -possession of me. The clammy chill of sunset was of no consequence, -though I tried to huddle something round me. I was only roused by the -sight, over some tree tops, of a little bit of black crenellated wall. -The approach to Peking is thus an absolute disappointment, for, instead -of seeing the grand walls from afar standing up out of the yellow -plain, here we were creeping round a corner to them. In a few minutes -we were under the gloom and darkness of this vast mass of stones, piled -up on high centuries ago. But, alas! that at such a moment imagination -and sentiment, increased by the difficulties and tediousness of the -journey, should succumb before an increased ordeal of pain, as we -now join the stone road, and jar over the great crevasses the paved -way. At last, turning the corner, we enter under the massive arch or -gateway, deep with many feet of thickness, called by the poetical name -of Hatamen, or the "Gate of Sublime Learning." We are within the outer -walls of The Forbidden City. - -Then we find ourselves in a sandy waste, bordered by the wall of the -Tartar City on one side and the canal on the other. Little clouds -of dust rising in the distance tell of some cart or donkey, and we -ourselves continue enveloped in the same as we choose any track we -please, for there is, of course, again no road for another weary mile -or so. Some flag-poles in the distance bring a ray of comfort, for I -shrewdly hope that they mean the quarter of the Legations. Nor is my -hope ill-founded, for, passing through a dirty passage, we emerge into -the moving streets and are soon in Legation Street, so called from -the lion-guarded entrances of the various legations, for the French, -the American, the German, and the Russian Envoys are grouped here. We -find accommodation in one of the numerous courts of the French hotel -in this aristocratic street. The sense of comfort of sitting still and -not momentarily expecting a concussion is simply delicious. We are -full of admiration for the physical bravery and endurance of the many -travellers, who for two days or for eighty miles go in these carts from -Tungchau to Peking, through such a prolonged torture. - -The British Legation is over the bridge with an entrance off the Yu-ho -canal. And here, the next morning, Sir John and Lady Walsham sent for -us and received us most hospitably. - -This beautiful Legation was formerly a Palace belonging to a member -of the Imperial Family, as is shown by its green roof. The approach -to the entrance is through an aisle and raised pavement, formed by -two magnificent open gateways supported by pillars, and gorgeously -decorated in gold, scarlet, green, and blue. The palace wanders round -the spacious enclosure of a courtyard; and the reception-rooms, with -their lofty ceilings inlaid like a temple in green and gold squares, -with their hanging screens of that beautiful Chinese black oak carving, -are magnificent. The walls are of open work filled in with dull gold -papers, and furnished, as these rooms are, with handsome brocades, soft -carpets, and rich hangings, chosen to harmonize with the surroundings, -the whole is truly regal. - -The compound is large, and contains the bungalows and houses of -the Legation Staff, and the separate apartments of the Student -Interpreters, of whom there are six. And a very happy little community -of twenty-two persons they appear to be, led by Lady Walsham, who is -most hospitably inclined, and living their life within the four walls -of the compound, which they rarely leave, except for social duties, to -pass into the outside filth and dust. - -From the windows of our rooms, overshadowed by the deep eaves -supported on enormous red wooden pillars, we look out on a succession -of peaked roofs, inlaid with green tiles and blue decorations, with -rows of pretty little green dragons perched on the ridges, whilst -crescent-shaped ornaments depending from the roof, wave with each -breath of wind. - - - - -CHAPTER IX. - -THE CELESTIAL CITY. - - -A curious difficulty arises in The Celestial City. It is that of -locomotion. How are we to get about with no carriages, and only those -abominable agonizing carts to drive in? We end by taking refuge on the -humble donkey, and every time we went out messengers had to be sent to -the walls to charter the best attainable animals. - -Great mandarins and ministers-plenipotentiary go in chairs, but -smaller fry are not allowed to use them, besides which they are -prohibitorily expensive. Even the late Marquis Tsêng, when he returned -from his embassy to Europe, was at first denied the privilege of a -chair, that he might understand that, although great in England, he -was small in China. For the Secretaries, ponies are the chosen mode of -locomotion by day, and fifty ponies stand in the Legation stables. At -night all must walk, lantern in hand, or go in a cart. So it is with -the ladies. Carriages are unknown and impossible, with the result that -the majority make, as I have said, a sweet prison of the compound, and -lawn tennis has votaries among all ages. - -The sky is clear and blue, with a north wind bringing a deliciously -crisp feeling into the air, suitable to this October month. The climate -of Peking offers a redeeming feature to the Europeans who are isolated -here. For the next six months this cloudless sky is uninterrupted. Rain -is unknown for nine months together, from July to April, and the worst -season is the rainy one of May and June, when the steamy heat is most -trying. The winter is perfect--cold, but with warm sun in the middle of -the day, and the snow that falls, but occasionally, is soon dispersed -by the wind. - -Moreover, Peking is fortunate in having a summer resort close at hand -in the Western Hills, some fifteen miles distant. Here the Legation -lives for the hot months, in a privately-rented group of Temples. The -dust storms are the scourge of the town; from the crumbling "loess" and -alkaline nature of the soil, they sweep in blinding clouds over the -plain, and are most irritating in their fortnightly recurrence. The air -is so intensely bracing and dry, as to unpleasantly affect the skin. - -The first thing to do is to grasp the topography of the Celestial -Metropolis, with its city within city, and wall within wall. We return -to the Gate of Sublime Learning, and ascend by it on to the great -Tartar Wall. - -Peking is spread out at our feet. We can trace out the four Walls, -each containing a separate town. The outer and lower ramparts surround -the Chinese city. The next exclude the abodes of the conquered from -those of the Conqueror. Here upon the higher ground were assigned, -two hundred and fifty years ago, spacious residences for the Tartar -Bannermen. Within the Tartar town again, and surrounded by its -defenders, is the Imperial city, and enclosed again, securely inside -this, with further moats and guard-houses, is the Wall of the Forbidden -City itself. - -These Walls are from fifty feet high, to forty and sixty feet wide. -They are built on massive stone foundations, but the walls themselves -are of brick, filled in with mud. How have these common black bricks -survived the crumbling of ages? But, except where the base has been -marauded for the saké of the yellow clay of the mortar, they are as -solid as the day they were constructed. At intervals of three hundred -yards there are massive flying buttresses, and a crenellated parapet -crowns the summit. They are pierced with many gateways, for there -are nine to the Tartar city, and eight for the Chinese. Each gate is -surmounted by a square tower of many storeys, loopholed for archers and -musketeers, and with quaint heavy black roofs, decorated often in gay -colours. - -Poetical names mark these Gates, such as "The Eastern Straight Gate," -"The Gate of Peace and Tranquillity," "Of Attained Victory," "The Gate -of Just Law," "The Western and Eastern Gate of Expediency." These -vast fortifications extend for twenty miles, and enclose an area of -twenty-five square miles. They are all that you see from whichever side -you approach the city, for they are loftier than the loftiest interior -pagoda or tower. They are the most impressive and venerable sight, and -alone would be worth coming to see. - -We are walking on the top of this Wall of the Tartar city--over -the ancient grass-grown pavement--commanding a splendid view of the -Chinese capital, in the early morning light. The pale grey haze over -the Western Mountains points the direction where lie the ruins of that -beautiful Summer Palace, magnificent even in its decaying fragments, -standing for ever as a reproach to the allies, but fit judgment on the -barbarous cruelty of a civilized nation. From this bird's-eye view, -Peking appears so buried in trees, that it is hard to believe that its -teeming streets, with a population variously estimated at from 400,000 -to 800,000, is immediately below. We are so far above it, that even the -street cries and calls come up in a softened murmur. - -[Illustration: A GATE OF PEKING.] - -We can distinguish the black roofs of several temples, and the bright -green-tiled ones that denote the abode of a Prince of the Blood, called -the First or the Tenth Prince, in gradation of propinquity. Over there -now the sun is shining and gleaming from the many yellow-tiled roofs of -the Imperial palaces of that Forbidden City, where shrouded in mystery, -unseen by his people, dwells the Emperor who holds sway over a fourth -of the human race. - -For about two miles we walk upon the ramparts, which would make a -splendid promenade, turning the corner of the square by the Eastern -Straight Gate, which is beautiful with its pagoda newly-decorated -for the recent passage of the Sovereign. The roof is formed of dark -crenellated tiles, with deep outward curving lines, underneath which is -a lovely inlaid mosaic in vivid blue and green tiles, whilst the green -bronze dragons with twisted tails are perched in single file along -the curving sweep. From point to point of the gracefully arched line, -suspend crescent-shaped eyes, that tremble in the breeze. And each of -the numerous gates have equally fine pagodas, so that in our wanderings -we were always coming back to one of these familiar features. - -But a difficulty occurs. We wish to descend from the wall. There is a -ramp; but at the bottom a locked and spiked gate. We call for a ladder, -without result. Pulled by the guide, pushed from below, we scramble -up and over a nine-foot wall. It was not dignified, and the crowd was -amused at our quandary. - -We are making our way towards the Tower which leans against the City -Wall, belonging to the observatory. - -We pass into a shady courtyard to gaze upon the very instruments -whereat Marco Polo wondered in his famous travels. There are two -planispheres, an Astrolabe of great size, cast in bronze, and supported -on twisted dragons of exquisite workmanship, and which are probably the -best specimens of bronze work in Eastern Asia. Ascending up some damp -stone steps, we find ourselves on the top of the Tower, and inside a -finely wrought iron railing, where there is a gigantic Globe of the -Heavens, with the planets yet marked in relief on the surface. Also a -quadrant, sextant, and sundial; while the large Azimuth instrument in -the corner was a present to the Emperor Kanghai from Louis XIV. - -And these instruments are as perfect as they were when placed here 300 -years ago. Indeed, some of these are still used by the Astronomical -Board for their observations. It brings home to us the fact that we -must never ignore for a moment, whilst living in China, that in the -earliest centuries she was far ahead in civilization of any country -in the world. But while the West has gone rapidly onward, overtaking -and outstripping the East, China, self-contained and shut off from -contact with all other nations, has remained stationary, so that -much we see around us dates from that era. The Chinese are under the -impression that there is no nation equal to theirs. They suppose -themselves the centre of civilization for the last 2000 years, and -claim that China knew the art of printing, invented gunpowder, and -was learned in astronomy, long before us. They consider that China is -the middle of the Universe, as is shown by the name, which, in their -language, signifies "The Middle Kingdom." They look upon themselves as -superior to us, as we think ourselves to them, calling us Barbarians, -and considering all European nations as such. As a nation they never -travel, and are down-trodden by the conservatism of the Mandarins, who, -risen from the people, wish to retain their superiority by keeping the -lower classes under. - -The real interest of Peking lies in its intense age. The city is 4000 -years old. Conquered by the Mongols, or the "Golden Horde," who, in -their turn were overthrown by the Tartars, Peking of the present day -is built, like Rome, upon the ruins of many cities. The description of -the famous Venetian traveller is as true to-day as it was when written -in the thirteenth century. It is in this wondrously preserved life -of the middle ages that the curiosity remains; it is because we see -the streets under their primitive conditions of dirt, before ideas of -sanitation were dreamt of, because we can look on the carts that were -in use at a period corresponding with our conquest by the Norman--on -the wheelbarrows with the single wheel, which creaks as loudly now as -it did then, on the wells with their Eastern earthenware jars, and -the water drawn as in the pictures of Isaac and Rebecca--on those -great Walls, then necessary for protection from the wild hordes that -scoured the plains, and where the gates are still closed, in accordance -with the ancient custom, at sundown. It is all the same. We might -have fallen into a Rip Van Winkle sleep at Tientsin, and awoke in the -streets of the Celestial Capital in the middle of the dark ages. - -There is one thing which impresses itself indelibly on the mind, and is -called to remembrance with the first mention of Peking. It is the dirt! -the dirt! the dirt! - -It is impossible to conceive of such awful filth, and, unless you have -seen it, I defy anyone to have the faintest idea of the sights and -smells of this city of the Flowery Land. The condition of the streets -is the same as it was B.C. If they were described faithfully and in -detail, common decencies would be violated, even as they are but too -openly. Let it suffice to say that they reek with refuse, garbage, and -decaying matter of every description; that the houses throw out into -dry pits, dug anywhere in the road, their pig's wash and offal, and -that the putrefaction and decay fills the air with noisome smells that -overpower you at every turn. Filth and refuse you soon grow hardened to -in Peking, but occasionally some particularly nauseous sight, such as -a dead dog in a far advanced stage of decomposition, or a cat with the -entrails protruding, unnerves you again. - -Wherever there is water you may be sure that it is a stagnant pool -of liquid filth, covered with green slime, and containing untold -horrors if stirred up. Also, if you pass down even the comparatively -clean Legation Street, in the wake of the watering-cart, the stench -from the stirred-up dust is unbearable. Men are seen going along with -baskets on their backs, carefully collecting with a bamboo pronged fork -every morsel of manure, for this is the only kind that the Chinese -use, chemical fertilizers being unknown. Fortunately, too, there are -hundreds of pariah dogs, many evil-looking beasts, who, with their -sharp noses, are busy turning over the most unsavoury heaps, or lie -asleep gorged in the middle of the narrow roads. Also the pigs, great -coarse-haired masses of fat (the Chinese pig is a peculiarly revolting -species) wallowing in the foul slush. Enough! In every place and corner -are revolting sights, unfit for a civilized community. - -Then there is the dust. It adds to the unpleasantness of going about. -Such dust as it is, all-pervading, all-penetrating, leaving a pungent -smell in your clothes, so that I soon found out that it is necessary -to keep a special costume to face it. Once outside the Compound, you -find yourself in the jostle and crowd, the shouts and disorder of the -streets, and as a cart or horseman passes, a cloud is raised that -obscures everything for the moment; and so it is that, for half the -time you are out you see nothing for the dust, and for the other half -only through a dim veil of the same. At sundown the state of affairs is -made worse by the succession of mules, purposely loosened to roll over -and over. - -Lastly there is the incredible state of the roads, with their deep -holes in the very middle of the busiest thoroughfares, with huge stones -lying across, or a steep embankment, round which you must diverge. -There is this excuse, that the soil, owing to its light and porous -nature, aided by the extreme dryness of many months of the year, easily -shifts with the wind. If the dust is intolerable, what must it be in -winter, when it is turned into a quagmire of black mud or sludge? It -is no uncommon thing for a mule to be drowned in the streets. He falls -into this soft morass and, unable to get a footing, perishes within -sight of the bystanders. - -There is yet another and a more unpleasant drawback to be met with, in -going about the streets of Peking. The Chinese, but particularly the -Tartar and Manchu part of the population, dislike Europeans, and openly -insult us as we pass along, jeering and laughing in a most offensive -manner, and obviously making the rudest observations. Even the little -children come out and call us foul names, of which Barbarian and -Foreign or Red-Haired Devils are the mildest terms--language which they -must have become familiar with by hearing it used by their parents. -There are several places where Europeans are almost invariably stoned, -and public feeling has been intensified by these late unfortunate riots -on the Yangtze. - -In the afternoon we go into the Chinese town, passing through the -great Chien-men or Front Gate. Inside this there is a large blank -square, formed by the meeting walls of the Chinese and Tartar cities, -which are pierced by four archways. The centre entrance is only opened -and used by the Emperor on the occasion of his yearly visit to the -Temple of Heaven. But through the others that connect the towns, there -is a constant moving, hurrying crush of people, the two streams meeting -and blocking in the arch. - -We lift up and pass under some black draperies and find ourselves -in the Chinese bazaar--in a passage one yard wide and completely -covered in. The shops are a succession of rooms, raised on a step -from the earth passage and all open in front, where you can buy fancy -articles and artificial flowers. There are the pretty jade pins, -which form the centre for the shiny coil of hair worn by the Chinese -women, long earrings and bracelets of the same, mandarin buttons in -coloured stones, clocks, porcelain, shoes, and silk embroideries. It -is the quaintest and prettiest of Eastern arcades, with the afternoon -sun penetrating the bamboo blinds in shafts of light, lighting the -picturesque groups of buyers and sellers squatted on the floors. The -three-foot passage is blocked by a curious crowd, assisting in our -purchases. - -We penetrate yet further into the Chinese city, across a stone bridge -and through a dangerous open square--a meeting of ways--where crates -of merchandise, carts drawn by tandem bullocks and mules, palanquins, -wheelbarrows with baskets of liquid manure running over, horses and -donkeys, are all mingled together, going and coming in different -directions. Yes! Sir Edwin Arnold, you speak truly of - - "The painted streets alive with hum of words, - The traders cross-legged, mid their spice and grain, - The buyers with their money in the cloth, - The war of words to cheapen this or that, - The shout to clear the road, the huge stone wheels, - The strong slow oxen and their rustling loads, - The singing bearers with their palanquins, - The broad-necked hâmals sweating in the sun." - -Then we go up a narrow street, tortuous and dirty, to another bazaar -where there are nothing but lantern, fan, and picture shops. - -Half an hour in these streets gives you more idea of Chinese life than -all the books of travel you may read in a life-time. - -Peking beggars description, still let me try to give some idea of what -we see. - -Here we are in a narrow lane. This is the aristocratic quarter -where the mandarins and officials live. There are a succession of -mud-plastered walls, roofed at the top and presenting an absolutely -blind appearance to the road, which, when combined with the always -dilapidated condition of the latter, gives the most deserted and -squalid impression. Opposite the entrance are hung tablets, indicating -the offices and titles of the householder. They are on a blank wall, -for you must observe that the entrance into a Chinese house is never -straight. It always winds, and this is supposed to be a defence against -the incursion of evil spirits, for the latter can happily only go -straight. For the same reason we see the little children wearing their -pig-tails plaited at the side of the head, so that the evil spirit, -not finding anything to grip at the back, is unable to catch hold of -them. In the houses of poor people, who cannot afford such elaborate -precautions, there is always a mud screen erected in front of the -door. Let us go inside. We find ourselves in a succession of courts, -surrounded by low buildings, where a family and its branches reside, -to the number sometimes of 200 persons. There are separate buildings -for the cooking, eating, sleeping, and living, but the family all live -together. As our "boy" said, when we inquired about these houses, -"Family man live there." Truly one, indeed. Yet there is something -to be admired about this family life, this care of aged parents and -luckless relations. - -The streets with shops, present the most wonderful vista of untidy -ends of tattered rags flying from poles, of dingy decorations of strips -of paper or cloth hanging over the doorways. The houses have a mean -appearance, being only of one story, and their walls, unless they are -of mud, consist of carved wood openwork, covered in with tattered -yellow paper. I think I may truly say that I never saw one, where -the paper was not torn and discoloured. Occasionally you come upon a -shop, bright with the names of the goods written in gold and scarlet -or green. They were originally all like this, and this one is only -recently finished, yet in a few months will become as dull and dirty -as the rest. Everything is allowed to run to decay. The Chinese never -seem to think it necessary to repair or re-decorate, and the climate -powerfully aids in this destruction. - -[Illustration: A street in Peking.] - -In many of the streets, the road is raised on an embankment of loose -dust, and then bordered by an empty space, where the garbage of the -dwelling-house is increased by the refuse from the various trades -pursued in it, and which is thrown out indiscriminately to fester and -decay in the hot sun, or it is occupied by cheap-jacks who lay their -goods in the dust, hawking and crying their wares. Here are rows of -lanterns with a primitive wooden receptacle for the lamp, filled in -with opaque paper, and frequent watch-houses, whence the watchmen -patrol the city at night with the muffled beat of a gong. - -The life in these streets, straggling, ill-compacted, and grimy as -they are, is yet full of vivid interest. Not that these open shop -fronts, or grimy pig-tailed men, can compare with the fascinating -life of a dear little Japanese street. Here is a tea-house, with the -distinguishing sign of ornamental green and gold wooden drums outside, -and inside a crowd sitting cross-legged on benches, each with a bowl -and chopsticks held within an inch of his nose, shovelling his food -rapidly into his mouth. There a man with rows of little black balls -spread out before his shop; he is a coal and these balls are made of -clay mixed with coal dust--a most economical method of firing. That -house in the middle with glazed windows is a bank, and whenever we see -a particularly bright exterior, we may be sure that it belongs to a -pawnbroker, for he does a large business, the Chinese being ever ready -to pawn their all for a good gamble or perhaps a whiff of opium, as -some unfortunates at home will do for a last drink. There is a man -squatted on the ground, shaking some sticks in a bamboo-holder. He is -largely patronized, men coming and going and choosing out a stick and -putting it back with either a pleasing or dissatisfied look. He is a -fortune-teller. Or there is a group intent on a game of hazard, when -the stakes in question are a few cash. Yes! these Chinese are certainly -inveterate gamblers, and would gamble their food, their clothing, -anything away. Or it is a juggler with a simple apparatus giving -a street performance, and many of our best tricks are, as we see, -borrowed from the Chinese conjuror. - -Then the coffin shops, piled high with those ponderous sarcophagi -hewn out of a single tree-trunk, so thick, so substantial, warranted -to last for generations, and there is no sending for one in a hurry, -for generally the coffin has been waiting in the house for years for -its occupant. The funeral furnishers also do a thriving business, for -we see many of them, hung inside with the green paraphernalia, the -lanterns, carrying pagodas and poles that make up such an imposing -procession. So do the wedding contractors, which we distinguish from -the undertakers by their red decorations. - -Then there are the carpenters and ironmongers, the blacksmiths and the -book-shops, the laundries and the barbers, and those of other trades, -all of which are easily distinguished at a glance, in the open shops, -where the work is carried on within view of the world, adding tenfold -to the interest of the streets. The travelling cobbler is frequently -seated at the corner of a thoroughfare, repairing the soft felt soles -of the Chinese shoes. The itinerant musician is seen under an awning -with his book and drum, singing to an attentive audience seated round -a table. In all these shops, there is a whirligig round which an -incense-burning tube is smouldering, and which marks the flight of -time. Watch this shopman give change. He produces often from up his -sleeve, or from round his neck, heavy strings of copper "cash." Now as -1200 of these go to make up a dollar, the counting of the change is -a matter of patience. It is a cumbrous monetary system, but well in -keeping with all that is Chinese. - -We are in the midst of a moving scene of life. Here the descendant of -the Tartar soldiery carrying a cage of performing birds, or a stick -with a chaffinch tied to it. It is the thing perhaps that he values -most of all his possessions, and you will often see the Manchu kneeling -on the grass, collecting grasshoppers on which to feed his favourite. -Very cruel to them also they often are, sewing up their eyes so that -they cannot see to escape. There is a soldier in uniform of bright -Imperial yellow bordered with crimson, carrying an antique matchlock -with long stock, and a flint in his belt. Soon after another passes on -a pony with arquebus and arrows slung across his back, for all Chinese -soldiers must, as in the days of Agincourt, be expert archers. - -Here is a caravan of camels bearing loads of tea (and connoisseurs -always prefer that which has thus travelled overland, to the tea -transported by sea), with their slow, stealthy, deliberate walk, and -contemptuous turned-up noses, tied together by the rope passed through -the ring in the nose, attached to the tail of the preceding one. The -last of the string has a bell which keeps slow and solemn time with -his dignified walk, and the driver does not trouble about the end of -the file, unless the stopping of the bell tells him there is something -amiss. A flock of sheep are being driven down that walled lane. They -are white with black spots, and have the great lumps of fat on their -haunches peculiar to the breed of Eastern sheep. If we follow to where -they are going, to the butcher's shop, we shall see the disgusting -scene presented by a slaughter-house open to the street. The animals -will be torn asunder, joint by joint, whilst still warm, with the blood -streaming, and entrails laid bare. - -A blue palanquin, with many bearers, is being carried along. There -is a great mandarin squatted inside on the floor, and we can just see -the handsome magnate with his embroidered robes lined with sable, his -turned-up velvet hat with the peacock's feather stuck out straight -behind, the red, blue, or white button on which indicates his rank. He -wears the red, and is going to the Yâmen or Ministry. He is preceded by -a retinue of mounted servants, who summarily clear the way, with the -whip if necessary, and their number announces to the world the rank -and importance of their master. Now there gallop past us a party of -wild-looking Tartars, veritable barbarians they look, with their yellow -faces, short lank hair and fur caps. Comes along next, a wheelbarrow, -with the excruciating squeak of the single front wheel, while the -merchandise is neatly balanced in baskets on either side. It is a -perpetual wonder how they maintain their equilibrium, especially when, -as at Shanghai, they are used for passengers, and there is only _one_ -seated on the side. - -Now we must make way for this long cart, crowded with passengers, -which corresponds to our omnibus; also for that uncouth-looking waggon, -with its piebald team of a single pony in the shafts, with a troika of -two donkeys and a mule roped in front. Again and again these curiously -mixed teams excite our mirth, the wheeler being often the smaller -animal of the whole. Then there is the never-ceasing stream of those -blue and black covered carts, of which we retain such a lively horror -since our journey from Tungchau, and out of many, jeer the Chinese -ladies, looking with scorn at the "Barbarian's wife" riding a donkey, -whilst they are boxed up safely inside, with a curtain in front, and -guarded by an armah (or maid) seated on the shafts. - -Add to all these sights, crowds of donkeys, small and wiry, with -their padded saddles on a wooden frame, with a bulging Chinaman with -swinging pigtail seated far back, and with his legs tucked up, trotting -along--of horsemen on rough Tartar ponies, generally white in colour, -and which run along at a great pace, so that there is no rising in the -saddle, and lastly the mules, a beautiful breed, large and strong, with -glossy coats, cruelly bitted, with a double bit and wire over the upper -gums. - -We have grown so accustomed to John Chinaman, with his innocent yellow -face, so smooth and hairless,--except when as a grandfather he wears -a moustache,--his obliquely-slit eyes, and his flowing pigtail, with -plaited ends of cord and tassels, that we have ceased to observe him. -We are now quite familiar with his baggy pantaloons, which sometimes he -binds tightly to the ankle--with his turned-up hat with velvet brim, or -eight-sided cap, always with coloured button atop--with his loose blue -coat fastened by two buttons on one shoulder, with the sleeves hanging -long over the hands, and that serve him as pockets. It is beginning -to get cold, so that the wadded coats worn in winter are coming into -general use. Whilst there is a level monotony of colour in the lower -classes, the upper have the most gorgeous brocaded coats of crimson, -blue, and purple, with pantaloons of other colours, that combine in -pleasing effect. Some of the men have the long claw nail, but only -on the little finger, in token that they do no manual labour, and a -disgusting sight it is to see this transparent substance of several -inches in length, bending backwards and forwards, as they use their -hands. - -The pigtail! What is it for? What is its origin? It is simple. The -Tartars were few, the Chinese many. Let not the latter see this and -be tempted to say: "Arise, drive out the conqueror." Let them shave -three-fourths of the head; let the back hair grow long and braid it -into a bridle as is the Tartar custom. The pigtail was intended as a -mark of subjection to signify to the Chinese that, even as it resembled -a horse's tail, so might they be driven like one, whilst the cuff of -the official sleeve to this day is cut into the shape of a horseshoe. - -Such, says tradition, was the Manchu order, and off came at a stroke -the heads of the disobedient. Two generations pass, and the Chinese -love the pigtail, as they do to-day, and dread the agents of the Secret -Society snipping it here and there, as an insult to the Tartar. - -The Chinese ladies are plain. They wear their black hair plastered -from a flat parting on either side of the face, and with bunches of -artificial flowers and tinsel stuck in, behind the ear, from which -depend long green jade earrings. Others have their hair drawn up -over a comb, to form a top knot, rising about four inches above the -head. There is yet a still more curious fashion of dressing the hair -into a plait wired, so as to stand out from the nape of the neck in -a stiff curve, just like the tail of a cat. It has a most peculiar -appearance. Has it ever struck you, when travelling, as it has me, how -very nearly all the nations of the world have black hair, the English, -Germans and Swedes being nearly the only exceptions? The Chinese women -smear their faces with rouge, beginning by placing one brilliant -vermilion spot under the lower lip. They wear the same dress as the -men, loose trousers and coats, and their clothes are of the brightest -colours--violent greens, blues and purples, richly embroidered in gold -or silver tissue, and rainbow tints. They wear many bangles and rings -of jade or crystal, and a silver circle round the neck. They too have -the long nails, but on all their fingers. We bought some of the pretty -silver claws of immense curving length, which they use as shields. - -[Illustration: Her Ladyship's Foot.] - -Oh! to see these poor women totter along, just balancing, ready to -fall at every step, with their poor little crippled feet. The weight -of a fair-sized woman is supported on a pair of green or blue pointed -boots, measuring not more than four inches in length. If we could -look inside, we should find the toes laid flat under the sole of the -foot, the great toe meeting the heel. From the moment the bandages are -put on the children, which is at the age of three or four, they are -never removed, however painful the swelling, but drawn tighter and -tighter until the deformity is complete. In the upper classes many of -the ladies have to be carried or supported on either side by an armah -when they walk. And yet they are so proud of their feet, they are such -a marriageable commodity, for big feet are sufficient ground, even -to-day, for a refusal to proceed with a contract of matrimony, that -many are solely deterred from adopting Christianity by the obligations, -imposed by the missionaries, of ordinary feet. A Chinese mandarin who -had studied "England: as she was, and as she is," said to a friend: -"You English seem very fond of your Queen--but is it possible that you -allow yourselves to be governed by a woman, however good, with big -feet?" - -It is a comfort here, to meet with the larger and handsomer Manchu -women, who come from Manchuria in Northern China, and are not thus -deformed. We always distinguish these latter by their wonderful -headdress, which consists of a piece of jade, one foot long, and -exactly resembling a paper cutter placed across the head to project -from ear to ear, and round which the hair is twisted. - - - - -CHAPTER X. - -THE FORBIDDEN CITY. - - -Now for some of the sights of Peking. - -A long hour and a half's ride on donkeys from the British Legation, -brings us to the vicinity of the great temple of Confucius. - -We find ourselves on a straight, dusty road, with a gateway at the end. -It was through that gateway, and down this same road, that the British -troops passed, when in 1860 they marched into Peking. - -We are frequently seeing painted wooden archways, called Peilaus. -These memorial arches are found all over China. They are only erected -by express permission of the Emperor, to good and public-spirited -persons--to a great man who has given a large sum of money (often -solely for this object), or to a widow who has been sufficiently -virtuous to remain faithful to her husband's memory. Like everything -else, they are generally crumbling or falling crooked. - -The approach to the Temple is through a road with a succession of -blank walls, the temple itself being equally well surrounded. Here we -see a man doing penance, shut up in a yellow box, and striking a bell -with a wooden lever at intervals. His punishment will last a month, -and if we could see inside, very likely the box is lined with spikes -or nails, so arranged that they prick the sinner if he changes his -position. Sometimes it is a means resorted to to obtain money to build -a temple. "Give, oh! give. 1000_l._ I must collect before I am released -from this cell." - -Foreigners are often refused entrance to the Confucian Temple. We -parley, too, through a crack in the door, and are told "No, big man -is coming." But as usual, greed, in the shape of the golden key -that accomplishes most things, conquers, and amid a rush of dirty -on-lookers, who find entrance with us as the gate is opened, we pass -inside the court of the temple of the Great Teacher. This court is -solemn and silent, neglected and deserted, with its dusky groves of -cryptomerias and cooing grey doves. The paved pathway leads up to -some steps, that pass on either side of a raised stone slab, covered -with ancient hieroglyphics, and embossed dragons with wonderfully -twisted tails. In the inner court is the temple itself, with a roof of -brilliant yellow tiles, and surrounded by pagodas and smaller halls -similarly tiled. - -We ascend to a marble terrace with balustrades. The door of the temple -is thrown open, and forth rushes a smell of damp air, and as the gloom -dissipates we cross some matting, raising clouds of dust. By degrees -the lofty proportions of the massive hall, with its roof of blue and -green, supported on colossal teak pillars of wood, painted a dull red, -begin to dawn upon us. We see in the centre the shrine to Confucius, -a humble red wooden tablet, set on a table, bearing this inscription: -"The Tablet of the Soul of the Most Holy Ancestral Teacher, Confucius." -On either side are tablets to the four most distinguished sages, whilst -the others, in a lower position, are for the next best celebrated men -of the Confucianist school. And this is the Literary Temple in which -the Example and Teacher of all Ages, and ten of his great disciples, -worshipped. "All is simple, quiet, and cheerless, fit place for -contemplation, and suitable for the Great Thought-giver." - -The Emperor comes here twice a year to worship the venerated sage, -and every sovereign, in token of veneration, presents a "Tablet of -Praise." Each inscription is different, and presents some aspect of -his influence; he is called, "Of all men the Unrivalled," "Equal to -Heaven and Earth," and "Example and Teacher of all Ages." In another -court are seen the celebrated stone drums. They are ten in number, of -grey granite or stone, and are believed to date from the eighth century -B.C., or to be about 2700 years old. The writing on them is in the old -Seal character, and consists of stanzas relating to King Süen's hunting -expeditions. They are the oldest things in a country where everything -is of such antiquity. - -On the opposite side of the court is the Hall of the Triennial -Examinations for the highest Literary Degree, the Chinese Doctor of -Literature. "In commemoration of each examination, a stone is erected -with the names of all the doctors. The oldest are three of the Mongol -dynasty, and the Peking University has therefore a complete list for -500 years of its graduates." - -Then we cross over to the Classic Hall, where the Emperor meets -the literati and graduates to hear, and sometimes theoretically to -pronounce a literary address. In the centre of the court there is a -pagoda, crowned with a wonderful gold knob (like a mandarin's button at -the top of his hat), and surrounded by an extremely gracefully-wrought -marble trellis-work, enclosing a moat of sluggish green water. Opposite -to it is a beautiful yellow porcelain arch, in three divisions, -interwoven with green tiles, forming a vivid contrast, yet blending -into a harmonious whole. There are other pagodas, containing those -curious memorials, of a pyramidal stone resting on the back of a -tortoise. These are, of course, also to the memory of distinguished -literati. Open sheds surround the court, and inside the black palings, -are the benches where the students sit, when the Emperor comes to hear -the address delivered, and behind, against the wall, the 300 precious -tablets, on which are engraved the authorized texts of the classics, -the oldest remains of ancient Chinese literature. Plenty of other -temples for ordinary worshippers we see, and always know them by the -two poles outside, with gold knobs on the top. - -We return to the city down a road which leads past the Drum and Bell -towers, great pagoda-like structures, pierced by solid archways on each -side, standing near together, both 100 feet high. The drum is sounded -at every hour through the long night watches, and can be heard all over -the city. A clepsidra is still kept to mark the time, a good instance -of Chinese conservatism. Near here is the temple where Sir Harry Parkes -and Sir Henry Loch were confined for the latter part of the time they -were prisoners in Peking. Until recently their names could still be -seen written on the wall, which, however, has lately been white-washed, -perhaps purposely. Just before turning into the Meishan we catch a -glimpse, in the far distance, of the beautiful Marble Bridge, spanning -a lake filled with lotus. "Standing on this bridge, one overlooks a -great part of the Imperial palace. The banks of the lake are studded -with castles, temples, and gardens," but this, alas! like so much else -in Peking, is closed to foreigners. - -We now pass into the Imperial City, which is guarded within a wall -seven miles in length, and go down a straight road raised in the -centre, the sandy waste between it and the shops being in possession -of cheap-Jacks and old-clothes' men. This road is in wonderful repair. -The Emperor has recently passed over it, and the lanterns are freshly -papered and water-butts are set ready at intervals. Thus the sovereign -remains ignorant of the usual state of the roads, and knows nothing -of the misapplication of public funds. The governor of the city or of -the provinces is responsible for the condition of the roads, but were -His Majesty to elect to make frequent journeys, the "squeezes" of the -mandarins would be ruinous. - -The Chinese legal and moral code is of the highest--on paper--but in -practice there is a system of "squeeze," which rules through the length -and breadth of the land; which pervades all business dealings, and -every department of the government, undermining the integrity of the -country. Everybody must have his "squeeze" out of every transaction. -The Viceroy "squeezes"; the Governor "squeezes"; the judge, the -taotaï, the smaller mandarins "squeeze"; for so they live. The pay -is little or nothing. The office is valuable in proportion to its -power to "squeeze." Our "boy" squeezes us, and back again there is a -"squeezissima" within the Royal City itself. - -[Illustration: All that is seen of the Forbidden City.] - -And now we stand under the walls of the Forbidden City. They are -covered with Imperial yellow tiles, a deep moat surrounds them, and -they are guarded by bannermen. There are but two entrances. There, -straight before us is the Coal Hill, surmounted by a pavilion, within -which the last of the Ming dynasty terminated the life of himself -and his Imperial house, when the victories of the Tartar invader, -the capture of the capital, the submission of the provinces, were -completed. It is an artificial mound, 150 feet high, and as we proceed -round the square of the walls, we see behind, amid the woods, the five -summits, crowned with the five gleaming roofs of peacock blue, green -and yellow of the pavilions and temples of the Prohibited City. Within -its walls are a park and lake. - -Little else is to be seen beyond the upper walls and the yellow roofs -of the palaces. There are many of them, none apparently of great size. -But in the centre hall is seated Kwang-Su, "The Son of Heaven," "The -Lord of ten thousand years." The youth of twenty-two, who in his sixth -year, upon "His Majesty the Emperor Tung-che suddenly ascending upon -the Dragon to be a guest on high," was called unexpectedly, like our -own Queen Victoria, from his bed in a distant part of the city to be -saluted, in default of a direct heir, as Emperor of China. Is he the -happier? The Imperial life must be dull and monotonous beyond bearing -for one so young. In the Forbidden City his Majesty must find all -his distractions. To go into the provinces would thrice beggar the -exchequer. - -There is the Hall of Highest Peace, where his Majesty gave rare -audience to the representatives of foreign powers. Once only! and what -negotiations it took to bring about! At length, yes! the Son of Heaven -would let the envoys of the outer world look on him. But they must -"kotow" thrice on their knees, touch the ground with their foreheads, -and let the Chinese people take it as the bearing of tribute. No, the -British Lion, and the eagles of Monarchs and Republics, cannot bend the -knee. The point is carried at length. "But," says the Council of State, -"it is only in that outer pavilion that our Lord Buddha will greet you." - -The trained consuls report that this again is a mark of contempt, and -must not be allowed. A more fitting place is decided upon. Then shall -the Prince Ching present the letters of credit of the foreign envoys on -his knees? No, that cannot be suffered either. Hand to hand must be the -communication of monarch with monarch. - -At length all was arranged. Their Excellencies in stars and orders, -repair to the palace with their staffs. A long wait, with sweetmeats -served, and then the audience. - -The German minister, as the senior, reads a short address, and the -envoys are named. Prince Ching takes their several letters of credit, -and places them before the Son of Heaven. He kneels, and the Imperial -youth speaks low a few words. - -[Illustration: HOMAGE TO "THE SON OF HEAVEN."] - -The president of the Tsung Li Yâmen goes to the ministers, and -repeats them. The audience is over--the spell is broken. But even now -our old friend the Austrian minister, Baron Biegeleben, is finding -great difficulty in arranging for the fitting reception of his Imperial -and Apostolic Majesty's Commission. - -It is time this nonsense ceased. If China is within the pale of -nations, she must do as other nations do. If she is not within the roll -of civilized States, she must be dealt with differently. Of two things, -one! - -Here is the Hall of Central Peace, where the Emperor examines and -sanctions the prayers for state worship; the Hall of Secure Peace, -where the highest literary degrees are conferred; and the palace of -Heavenly Purity, where the Emperor in the still morning hour of three, -transacts business with his ministers, and which no one enters or -leaves without his express permission. - -Here at sunrise, the petitions from the six Boards controlling Imperial -affairs are submitted to the Vermilion Pencil of the Throne; the -prayers also for present and posthumous honours. - -Beyond stands the palace of Earth's Repose, where "Heaven's Consort" -rules over her miniature court. Adjoining this is a flower garden. Then -the Hall of Intense Thought; where sacrifices are made to Confucius, -the teacher and thinker. There are other palaces and offices, amongst -them a printing office, for the city is self-contained and need have no -communication with the outer world. No one knows the population inside -this Prohibited City, whether it is great or small. It is wrapped in -mystery, and the imagination is free to float round the holy of holies, -this Unknown Capital of the Flowery Land. - -There are said to be beautiful gardens, with fountains and cascades. -But what can make up for the want of variety? Occasionally "the Son of -Heaven" goes forth to worship the ashes of his ancestors, or the earth -and the moon, at this or that temple. - -Then the way is cleared of all persons--and matting is put up on -either side of the roadway to prevent the Celestial eyes falling on -the people, or the people from seeing their sovereign. The foreign -ministers are required to warn their nationals to keep away from the -neighbourhood. - -Unfortunate Majesty! How the young Emperor must yearn for some -knowledge and experience of the outer world, something more than the -views of the aged mandarins around him, to guide him in his decisions. -Small wonder that he should reject the suggestion recently made of the -censor (who is permitted even to rebuke the throne), that for some -hours in each day he should, in addition, have the ancient classics -read to him. They say that his youthful Majesty is not wanting in -intelligence and ability, and it is even whispered that some of the -rescripts of the Imperial _Gazette_ of Peking issue from his own hand. -Perhaps too he may look wistfully towards the mausolea being prepared -for the Empresses-Dowager, and wonder if they will prove true to their -names: "Happy Homes for a myriad years." - -We meet a wedding procession as we proceed; indeed, we are constantly -getting mixed up in these straggling processions, for both yesterday -and to-day the horoscope has cast as lucky, and they have perhaps been -long waited for. The one is the Fête of the God of Wealth and the -Golden Dragon King; the other of the God of Fire and the Inventor of -Writing. Everything is scarlet. First come the bannermen, bearing aloft -on poles red boards, on which are inscribed the titles of the father of -the bride. They are generally a string of dirty men and boys, the scum -of the city, dressed in scarlet, with black hats and feathers sticking -up like a Red Indian. More men follow, carrying lanterns and draped -pagodas, and a cage with white ducks, an emblem of conjugal fidelity. -Next comes the band, with enormous drums, draped in red and yellow -silk, and ludicrous gilt trombones, which the musician puffs valiantly -into, only to produce a sound like the wheeze of a bagpipe. Lastly -comes the closed palanquin, richly gilt and embroidered, followed -by another containing the parents. It is the day of triumph for the -almond-eyed one with the little feet, within the closely-curtained -vermilion palanquin. With blare of trumpets and songs of joy she is -borne through the streets, securely locked, to the bridegroom's house, -where the mother delivers her up with the key of the chair, to the -husband, to whom in childhood's innocent hours she was affianced. - -All day we are passing houses, outside which are lanterns on red poles, -arranged in a square, with archways and decorations, and waiting -palanquins and carts, whilst the feast is proceeding inside. In the -afternoon we see several whence the guests are streaming away from the -festivity, the ladies of small feet being carried by their attendants -to their palanquins. It is the prerogative of every poor relation and -connection to attend this feast, and often the parents can ill afford -such an expense; still, it must be done, or "face" will be lost. Like -the "squeeze," this "face," or prestige, is another prominent feature -of Chinese life. It is as pronounced as the caste difficulty in India, -and pervades every detail of life. The most roundabout methods and -transparent deceits are resorted to, to save a man's "face," viz. his -credit, or renown. - -A funeral is an equally elaborate ceremony. We saw preparations for -one in a village, coming up the Peiho. Outside the deceased's house -were erected straw archways, whilst a catafalque of enormous dimensions -was waiting at the door. As we watched, a life-sized wooden horse, with -a sham rider, arrived, drawn on a board, to figure in the procession. -The mourners will all wear white, and as many as sixty-four men will -aid in carrying the coffin to its resting-place. Food and money will be -offered to the evil spirits to propitiate them, and every care taken -that the spirit of the deceased shall rest in peace. - -Then the tablet will be placed in the family memorial chamber, and -sons and grandsons, and great granddaughters and their children, will -come in the ages of the future, to tell the spirit of the departed, -of the marriage, of the illness, of the promotion, or the fall of a -descendant. It may be, too, that a future scion of the house may render -service to the State--be made a Viceroy, a President of a Board, a -Member of the Grand Council. Will his Imperial Master reward him with -title to descend in a few months to an unworthy son? No, the peerage, -the honour, will be posthumously rendered by decree of the emperor -to the ancestor, be so notified in the Peking _Gazette_, and, amid a -gathering of all kindred, be heralded unto the great Unknown in the -Memorial Hall. "Great is the son who bringeth his father honour." - -For this ancestor-worship seems to be the only religion which the -people practise. Some are Confucians, some Buddhists, some Taoists, -but they are held as only moral and perfunctory faiths, whereas this -worship of the dead is very real to them, and faithfully performed. -They do right, because they fear to disturb the spirits of their -forefathers, who will haunt their homes and cause evil to fall on their -families, if they do wrong. - -We return home by an even dirtier and more slovenly road, past the -various Yâmens of the Board of Works, the Board of War, and the Navy, -and the Board of Punishments, which obtained such a bad notoriety for -the cruelties perpetrated in 1860. There is nothing, however, to see -from outside, but an archway leading to several courts. - -We spent the afternoon in visiting the various Missionary -Establishments of the different nationalities, which have their -headquarters at Peking. First to the spacious compound of the American -Methodist Episcopal Church, where we saw the boys' and girls' school, -the sleeping apartments and dining halls, for they feed and house, but -do not clothe them. Their method is to admit the scholars and give -them a Christian education, with good influences, without, however, -obliging them to become Christians. But whether the writing of essays -in English, and the teaching of the piano to girls, is conducive to or -comes under the head of missionary work, I am not competent to judge. I -should think it better if the teachers were to learn Chinese, and teach -the children in their own language, a knowledge of English not being -essential to their becoming Christians. - -Next we visited a branch of the French Roman Catholic Mission, which, -under the able leadership of Père Favier, has done much good work. -The school with its day scholar's enclosure, lies under the beautiful -Roman Catholic Church, with its twin pinnacles and splendid interior, -the altar being inlaid with cloisonné. The organ was bought with the -proceeds of the sale of a valuable carpet that came into the hands of -the Fathers. The cathedral and bishop are at Peitang on the other side -of the city. Since the early days of the Jesuit Fathers, the Roman -Catholics have always been active in China. They claim to have 700,000 -converts. Their success, in comparison with other sects, may perhaps be -attributed to the fact, that their ritual and gaily decorated churches -are more attractive, and in accordance with the Buddhist religion and -temples; but it must also be said, that the priests go amongst the -people, adopt their life, and wear Chinese clothes, including the -pigtail. Aided by the nuns, they minister to the temporal wants of -the population, as well as the spiritual. Also these priests, when -they leave France, come out for life and receive only 100 taels, or -20_l._ a year, whilst the American missionaries are reputed to receive -100 taels _a month_, and 200 taels a year for every child. Perhaps -this may account for their numerous families. The S.P.G. Branch of -mission work under Bishop Scott boasts, alas! few converts in their -schools, but as they are thorough, and refuse to have any suspicion of -"rice Christians," as the doubtful converts are called, this can be -accounted for. The London Mission does good work, but perhaps the most -successful of all is the China Inland Mission, owing its existence to -its north-country founder--Hudson Taylor--a man unknown to great fame, -but who has done, and is doing a great work in this far-distant corner -of the world. - -We expected to hear a great deal about these late riots at Wuhu, or -Wusueh, when we came to Peking. We had read the alarming articles in -the North China _Daily News_ of the excited state of the country, the -imminent dangers hanging over the European population at the Treaty -Ports, and of the arming of the British Legation here. We are almost -disappointed to find a serene atmosphere of safety. - -There are some who are found to attribute the pretext for the -commencement of these riots to the Roman Catholic nuns, who by -succouring the foundlings, especially the despised females, to educate -in their convent schools, arouse the suspicion of kidnapping them for -the purposes of witchcraft. The mortality being high, they are even -accused of taking out the eyes of children to make an elixir of life, -and of other atrocities. The same charge brought about the dreadful -massacre of Tientsin in 1870. More probably, however, this is only an -excuse for a rising, which is really fomented by one of those secret -societies, like the Kalao Hui, which honeycomb China. - -Peking is celebrated for its furs, particularly for sables. London is -the great market of the world, receiving the supplies of the Hudson Bay -Company and Canada, but whenever an emperor or prince or great noble in -Russia requires a fur, it is to Peking that they send. The sables are -wonderfully cheap, only costing from 6 to 8 dollars each, but, owing -to a difference of treatment in smoking, they are not so dark as those -we call Russian sables. They have also a good many white hairs. There -are squirrel skins of soft, brown fur, thousands being sewn together to -form a single coat. Then there are black and white astrakans, beaver, -and otter, and that lovely, silky white fur, the wool of the Tibet -sheep. We were offered a mandarin's sable robe, perhaps a booty from -the looting of the Summer Palace, for 300 dollars, and I think we shall -always regret that we did not invest in it as an heirloom. - -We came out of the Legation Hall one morning, to find a picturesque -sight of curio dealers squatted beside their blue bundles, or spreading -their bright-coloured embroideries, under the open pagoda porches of -this princely palace. - -Peking is known for the antiquity and splendour of its -embroideries,--the best in China; but I cannot fancy golden dragons -on cerise satin grounds, or pink flowers on an ultramarine blue, -nor yet all the flaming purples, crimsons and oranges (the Imperial -yellow alone being beautiful), after the delicate half-tones, and -pale tints of the Japanese embroideries. It is always the same in -China. Everything is ugly, the colouring and designs hideous. They are -grotesque and not quaint, gaudy and not brilliant. And we have visited -many curio shops, only to leave them in despair. The single beautiful -things are the _objets de vertu_ in jade and crystal, tiny cups and -vases, snuff bottles, carved images, all so delicately wrought, but -charged for as if worth their weight in gold. - -Then tiffen with Sir Robert Hart, the chief of the Imperial Maritime -Customs. He has been out here for 30 years, and knows as much as any -man, probably a thousand-fold more, about China. His conversation was -most interesting. His position is unique, for Sir Robert collects and -has absolute control over all the levies on foreign goods; and a large -part of the finances of China pass through his hands. - -We proceed to see the Examination Hall of the second and third degrees, -that for the first being held under the Emperor's eyes. - -This Examination is a remarkable feature in Chinese life. It is the -ambition of every man, whatever his position or calling, to become a -student, for it is the avenue to all greatness, and the means whereby -all posts of honour or emolument are to be obtained. - -Strange it is that in this stronghold of conservatism, there should -be found such a radical feature, whereby the humblest-born may raise -himself by his own efforts to the rank of "big" mandarin. Very -honourable it is, too, that the greatest attainment, the highest -ambition and reward which the country offers, is the possession of this -much coveted "First Degree." Year after year, the same men come up, -and it must be a noble and touching sight, when, as is sometimes the -case, an old man of ninety will offer himself. Though after a certain -age, three trials entitle aged candidates to a degree _honoris causa_. -These examinations are held in each province, and consist entirely in -the writing of essays on classical subjects. The successful ones are -afterwards published, and the victorious candidates accorded public and -local honours. - -We pass through some empty courts, under several peilaus, erected in -honour of great scholars, once gay with rainbow paint, but now, of -course, dusty and decaying. We can go no further--for across the great -doors is placed an official seal, consisting of two strips of red paper -placed crossways. We presume that the examination is still proceeding; -10,400 students from this great province of Chihli having presented -themselves this year. The great expense, and the slow, tedious journey -to Peking, does not deter the aspirants. For fourteen days and nights -they are shut up in separate cells, with desk, chair, paper, pen and -ink, their provisions being handed to them through a trap door in the -wall. Thankful they must be when the ordeal is over. - -We went on the last afternoon to see the Tsungli Yâmen, or Foreign -Office--the Board which alone has dealings with the representatives of -foreign countries. We pity these in their frequent pilgrimages thither; -for to reach it we passed through a succession of the filthiest lanes, -tortuous and narrow, bordered with stinking heaps of rubbish. In one -of these was the green lion-guarded residence of the Emperor's cousin, -Prince Tung, and all these fashionable dwelling-houses with their -crumbling walls, from which the coatings of whitewash are peeling, are -surrounded by these disgusting passages. Arrived at the Tsungli Yâmen, -I only see the outer gateways of green and gold, for of course its -desecration by feminine feet is not to be thought of. - -Peking is for this reason a disappointment. There is so much to -see, and yet so little that can be seen. Of recent years they have -closed nearly everything to foreigners, and the bitter feeling against -Europeans seems to be increasing. The Lama Temple you cannot visit -on account of the hostile attitude of the people. Closed are all -the Imperial buildings of the Prohibited City. The Marble Bridge, -the Temple of Agriculture, where the emperor ploughs a furrow in -springtime, but above all, invisible is the Temple of Heaven. - -This latter temple is the most interesting sight of the Chinese -City. Its name properly speaking, means, "the Altar of Heaven," for -the Emperor attends here to sacrifice twice a year. It is said that -"The worship of the Heaven or Supreme Ruler is the most important -of all the state observances in China", before the rationalism of -the Confucianists and the polytheistic superstition of Buddhism -predominated. There are no images of any kind in the temple, and the -offering of whole burnt bullocks, strikingly reminds us of the ancient -custom of western religions, as that of the Hebrews and Greeks. The -ceremonies of the sacrifices are kept with the utmost severity, and are -of a very complicated nature. - -The chief sacrifice is at the winter solstice. On the 20th day of -December, the offerings and an elephant carriage are sent with great -array to the temple, and on the 21st the Emperor follows in a sedan -chair, covered with yellow silk, and carried by thirty-two men; he is -preceded by a band of musicians, and followed by an immense retinue, -including the princes, high officials, "big" and "little" mandarins, -all on horseback. Having arrived at the temple, His Majesty offers -incense to Heaven and to his ancestors, and inspects the offerings; -then he is conveyed on the elephant carriage to the Palace of -Abstinence, where he is not allowed to take any animal food or wine, -nor to sleep. Next morning, seven quarters before sunrise, he puts -on his sacrificial robes and goes to the southern gate of the outer -enclosure, dismounts from the carriage and walks to the great altar, -where an Imperial yellow tent has been erected on the second terrace. -At the moment he arrives at the spot where he kneels, the fire of the -sacrifice is kindled and music is heard. The Emperor then proceeds -to the upper terrace of the altar, kneels and burns incense before -Heaven and also presents incense to his ancestors. Then he makes three -genuflections, and one prostration, and offers bundles of silk, jade -cups and other gifts, music being heard all the time. Afterwards he -kneels at another point of the altar, where an officer reads a prayer -aloud. At last he receives kneeling the "cup of happiness" and the -"flesh of happiness." With the first dawn the whole party return to the -palace. Foreigners, who watched the party when passing the Ch'ien-men -from the city wall, speak highly of the splendid appearance of the -whole procession: hundreds of officials in brilliant robes of state and -numberless followers on horseback, among them a company of the Imperial -Life Guards. - -[Illustration: THE GREAT WALL.] - -A similar sacrifice takes place at the spring solstice, with the same -ceremonies, at the northern altar, but the motive is the special prayer -for a prosperous harvest, whilst the winter sacrifice is offered for a -blessing upon the whole empire. - -We cannot see the ruins of the Summer Palace, the Yuan-ming-yuan, -or Round and Splendid Garden, and which is distant about ten miles -from Peking. "It is a delightful park with a rich variety of groves, -temples, lakes, palaces and pavilions," and must from the photographs -be very beautiful. It stands there for ever, as a memorial left to -embitter the Chinese against us, yet who could say but that Lord Elgin, -by destroying the Palace of their thrice sacred monarch, brought home -to them a fit and righteous judgment? - -But our greatest disappointment of all is that we must give up a five -days' expedition to the Great Wall if we would take the French mail -from Shanghai. "Fancy going to Peking and not seeing _the_ Wall!" I -can hear someone exclaim. Well, we shall not be all unique in this, -for three-fourths of the hundred foreigners who live in Peking have -never been, nor ever intend to go. An artificial interest, all out of -proportion to the reality, is created by its great antiquity. Finished -in 204. B.C. (for it took ten years in building) for 1500 miles this -great wall, which was intended to keep out all the enemies of China, -runs up and down the northern face of the country, in one place over a -peak of 5225 feet high. It is constructed of earth and stones. It has -been truly said: "that looking over the surface of our globe, it is the -only artificial structure that would arrest the gaze." - -The grapes are sour. For after all, the visitors who go do not see the -real Great Wall, but only a spur of more modern date. Also the walls of -Peking are considerably higher and more imposing. - -As is only fit and proper, for they are the most interesting feature -of the city, we make our farewell to Peking from those grand Walls. - - - - -CHAPTER XI. - -SHANGHAI AND HONG-KONG. - - -We left Peking at dawn. Through the silent streets of the Tartar -City we drove, passing for the last time through the Gate of Sublime -Learning on to the sandy waste outside, jolting along under the great -Walls, with the sun rising to meet us. - -We are returning to Tungchau by the Canal, and so saving the penalties -of the road and the dust, but owing to the numerous locks, we have -to transship no less than five times from one boat to another. This -waterway is in connection with the great Imperial canal, another, -like the Great Wall, of those time-enduring monuments of the industry -of a great people--and serves to transport the tribute of rice from -the south to Peking. The locks are very picturesque, being built of -yellow blocks of stone, over which the running water forms a waterfall -overshadowed by trees. It is a quaint slow mode of travelling, gently -rippling along over the mirror surface of the water, past great -rustling beds of pampas grass twelve feet high, opposite one of which -some Chinese sportsmen, with their matchlocks and lighted fuses, are -crouched ready to fire at the wild ducks that abound in these watery -marshes. Amongst the groves of trees, which look golden in their autumn -foliage against a clear blue sky, we see many memorial peilaus, and -those other monuments of stone pyramids springing from the back of a -huge tortoise. The air is still and clear as early autumn, and the -sounds from the mud villages we pass, are borne clearly to us. The -walls of Peking, with their crenellated gateways, are just fading away -into the blue haze. - -Five hours of tedious progress makes our eyes glad to see the beautiful -carved bridge of Palikiao, where the combat in 1860 took place, and -the damage then done to the bridge has never been repaired. In a few -minutes more the pagoda of Tungchau looms up, and the canal rapidly -narrows. - -We reach Tungchau in a veritable dust-storm, that blows the loose sand -by the banks into spiral columns and pillars, and embark once more -on the house-boat. It seems quite like coming home. Then we begin -the Peiho's weary succession of winding reaches, with the endless -continuation of mud banks and yellow water. - -The prospect next morning was disheartening. The wind was strong and -dead ahead, and though our men had worked all night, certain landmarks -told us that our progress was far from satisfactory. All through that -long day we crawled along; weary work it was for our poor tired crew. -As bend after bend opened out before us and receded, each one so -exactly like the other, we registered a hope that we might never more -see the Peiho. Evening closed in, night succeeded, and we yet vainly -looked for the lights of Tientsin. As so often happens after a long -watching, we seemed to arrive suddenly. Our plank door was removed, and -we found ourselves at Tientsin and the Bridge of Boats, and amid the -grateful "kotows" of our men for a gratuity well earned by such patient -toil, we sped in jinrikishas through the dimly-lighted city, where -everyone carries his own swinging coloured lantern, to the Consulate -once more. - -We found a China Merchant's steamer, the _Shin Sheng_, leaving -Tientsin the next morning, and embarked at once. Two unsuccessful -attempts at turning the steamer opposite the wharf we made; the third -succeeded, but when she was broadside across the stream, stem and stern -touched the banks. We passed safely through the perilous bends of the -river, only grounding occasionally, but once the bows of the _Shin -Sheng_ ran up on to the bank, and cut clean away quite ten feet of it. -A little mud-house stood on the angle, and the old village harpy to -whom it belonged, came out and shook her fist at the captain on the -bridge, showering imprecations on his head, and small wonder, for some -time previously the bows of his ship had gone _into_ her house and -wrecked it! We breathed more freely when the forts of Taku passed, the -Bar, or "Heaven-sent Barrier," crossed, and the pilot left behind, we -emerged without mishap into the Yellow Sea. - -We had a fearful tossing in the Gulf of Pecheli. At Chefoo we called -for cargo. It is a pretty seaside place, with a splendid beach and -bathing sands, a boon to the residents of Shanghai, who either come -here or go to Japan for the summer months. It was too rough for the -lighters to come off, so we anchored for the night. The next morning -a gale was blowing in the roadstead--the breaking of the north-east -monsoon--and we had to move round under the lea of the bluff. Our -hearts sink within us, and we despair of catching the French mail, -which means waiting at Shanghai a week for the P. and O. Returning when -the gale moderated, the agent sent off to say that we were to start -at once and not wait for the cargo, so we have wasted eighteen hours -rolling and knocking about for nothing. - -We had not gone more than two miles out, when the engineer sent to say -that a valve was leaking; this necessitated putting back again, and a -further delay. At last we get really off. Certainly we have endured -much to see Peking. Two days afterwards we are in the mouth of the -Yangtze, anxiously looking for the black funnels of the _Messageries_ -boat. We know she should have left at noon to-day, and it is just that -hour. Yes, it is all right. She is still there, surrounded by lighters, -and we steam close to find out that she sails in twenty hours. There -has been a delay of one day, luckily for us. - -We proceed up the Woosung tributary of the Yangtze. It is a glorious -morning. The junks, painted in gaudy colours, with the all-seeing, -staring white and black eye, glide past us. The banks are lined with a -fort, factories, dock and ship-building yard, a gay scene of thriving -commercial activity. Before us now opens out the bright green lawn of -the Bund, of Shanghai, with its blue-roofed pagoda for the band, backed -by a row of handsome oriental-looking houses and "hongs," with green -blinds and deep verandas. There is the buff and grey of the German -consulate, and the grey and red of the Japanese, whilst the French -tricolour flies over, and indicates the French settlement, and in the -far corner, to the right, is the British flag over our own consulate -and garden. The numerous tributaries of the Yangtze are bridged over, -and join the quay together. - -One of the prettiest sights in coming up to Shanghai, or "upper Sea," -is to see the men-of-war and gun-boats of all nations, lying side by -side in the river before the Bund. There are English, American, French, -German, Spanish, and Japanese men-of-war and a Chinese gunboat, each -floating their star and stripes, tricolour, Union Jack, Black Eagle, -red ball on a white ground (Japanese) and the Imperial Dragon. - -Shanghai is a gay, bright clean place, where upwards of 4000 Europeans -reside, the majority being British. These claim for it the title of -the Paris of the East, and the shops and broad well-kept streets make -it worthy of the name. You have, too, the picturesque element of -Chinese life without the accompanying dirt and squalor, for the typical -Chinese town with its filthy narrow streets is relegated to the back -of the settlement. All life centres on the Bund, which we and everyone -else are always passing up and down; and here amongst the smart -little broughams, that are like Indian gharries, and the Victorias, -dog-carts, and phaetons, with their scarlet-clad mafoos and syces, -mingle the sedan-chairs of magnates, the Chinese wheelbarrow, with the -passengers balancing on either side, and the brightly lined green and -red jinricksha. There is the same cosmopolitan crowd on the pavements -overflowing into the road, for the white "ducks" and flannels of the -Europeans, mingle with the bright blue, green, maroon, crimson, brown -and yellow coats of the merchants and compradores. For many of the -hongs (as the places of business are called) are on the Bund--whilst -the loose coats and shiny trousers of the Chinese ladies, with their -smooth coils of black hair interlaced with green jade hair-pins and -long pendant earrings, are seen side by side with the flowing robes and -turbaned heads of an Indian. - -We called at the British consulate, which lies in an enclosure of -spacious green lawn with palms and flower-beds. There stands here a -superb granite cross erected to the memory of the five victims, and -companions of Sir Harry Parkes, and to avenge whose murder, the Summer -Palace was burnt and looted by the French. Further along, on the Bund, -is the statue to Sir Harry Parkes, a little man with large whiskers, -but a very able diplomatist, whose death was universally mourned by -the Europeans in China. The English cathedral and deanery lie at the -back of the Bund. The streets are so broad and clean, the roads so -firm, that it is a pleasure to be on them, particularly after those -of Peking. It is because they are under the supervision of an English -Municipal Council, and they deserve for them the greatest credit. - -At four o'clock we went to a meet of the Tandem Club, the last of the -season, held in front of the bank. There are fifteen members, but ten -only turned out, and were led off by the only tandem of horses. The -other teams were all of the short-necked, thick-set, Chinese ponies -driven in a modified dog-cart. Then we strolled along on the grass -under the trees to the gardens, to listen to the Manila band. These -gardens slope with green lawns to the water's edge, and the wandering -paths lead by beds, bright with heliotrope, geraniums, chrysanthemums, -and tropical growths of banyan trees, palms, magnolias, indiarubber -and castor-oil plants, amidst which pale-faced children are playing in -charge of their Chinese amahs. In the evening we dined with Mr. and -Mrs. Robert Little. He is the able editor of the _North China Daily -News_. - -On a lovely Sunday morning we embark on the steam tug, and once more, -for the third and last time, go down to Woosung. In an hour we are -on board the Messageries Maritime's s.s. _Calédonien_, critically -surveying our home for the next five weeks. - -The Messageries line has the advantage of the P. and O. in that they -are more generous in giving separate cabins, the cuisine is said to be -better, and indeed they take trouble to make it so, sending the cooks -every two years back to a restaurant in Paris. It is also an immense -boon (which everybody who has travelled much will appreciate) to have -fixed places for dinner only, and at the other meals a free choice of -companions. The saloon is spacious, and there is a splendid promenade -deck, which is, however, somewhat spoilt by the influx of too numerous, -second-class passengers, who share the privilege of using it. - -[Illustration: Harbour of Hong-Kong.] - -The north-east monsoon is with us, and in two days and a half from -leaving Shanghai, and after passing through the Straits of Formosa, -between the mainland of China and the island of that name, past Foochow -and Amoy, which are too far distant to be seen, we anchor at Hong Kong -at midnight. Though dark, it is a starlight night. Hong Kong, or "Good -Harbour," presents itself to us in bright electric arches of light, -thrown far up on the sides of the peak, whilst its beautiful harbour -is traced out for us by the twinkle of lights from the sampans, moored -in hundreds along the wharf, by the swiftly moving jinricksha lights -coursing along the road of the sea-shore, and the dots of lights on the -rocking masts or the gleaming eyes of steam-tugs in the harbour. - -We have decided to give up Canton, see what we can of Hong Kong in the -time the steamer stays, and not wait a week for the next mail. - -I was once told that no one has ever done justice to the beauties of -Hong Kong, and as we landed at sunrise on the quay I was inclined to -agree to this. The deep verandas of the Eastern-looking houses, with -their pale pink and drab tints, the cool arcades, and above all the -tropical wealth of vegetation, makes Hong Kong the prettiest of Eastern -cities. - -Leaving Queen's Road, we are carried up in chairs under a lovely -overhanging avenue of banyan trees, whose huge knotted roots lie round -the path, whilst from the grateful shade of their thick leaves above, -depend the long thread-like tendrils, forming a transparent curtain. -Past the grey, weather-stained cathedral we go, hidden away in a little -recess under the hills, past the barracks, whence sound the bagpipes of -Princess Louise's Highlanders, to the station of the mountain railway -up the peak. "The Peak"--what would Hong Kong be without this prominent -feature? True, by keeping off the sea-breezes and by penning the town -in the narrow strip between the harbour and the mountain, it makes -it steamy, unhealthy, fever-stricken and well-nigh uninhabitable in -summer, but then it provides a sanatorium on the many summits of its -heights, where every available platform is occupied by a house. - -Unflinchingly straight up runs the line of the railway, and as we -ascend, we look down on the roofs of the houses, perched without any -sequence, up and down the side of the hills, into gardens and tennis -courts, and the green waters of a reservoir below; over the black -and white speckled mass that stands for the town, further out to the -harbour, a blue pond studded with black spots by the steamers, whilst -the sampans are brown dots. The range of barren rocky mountains close -round the harbour, and there is Koolong, with its wharves and godowns, -on the Chinese mainland, whilst we are on the Island of British soil. -It is a beautiful view, this bird's-eye panorama of the town and -harbour, from Victoria gap. - -You must see the Peak to realize its real height, its scarcely sloping -shoulders, covered with tropical growth in the valley, growing scantier -and scantier, until you reach the summit, bare and rocky. Two enormous -hotels, and many houses, populate the spacy crest. And the peep over -the other side of green rounded hills, running down to the sea, is -simply lovely, whilst the views from every point are far-reaching and -exhaustive. We take chairs and go to the point, but one degree lower -than the topmost one, where stands the signal station, to the bungalow -of Government House. Early as it is, and late in the season, we find -the heat terrific. Everyone is obliged to come and live up here in the -summer, the nights in Hong Kong bringing no relief, and the difference -in the temperature is often as much as 9°. As we return we meet all the -business men, in the coolest of white costumes, being carried in chairs -by coolies in smart uniforms of white with blue or scarlet sashes, to -the station, going down to town for the day's work. - -In descending, we return to the main thoroughfare of Queen's Road, -and after some shopping, go to the City Hall, and the marble palace -of the Shanghai and Hong Kong bank, where I wait outside to watch -the ever-varying stream of passers-by. Chinamen in their cool cotton -jackets and glazed pantaloons, coolies with their bamboo-slung burdens, -sedan-chairs, jinrickshas, wheelbarrows, chairs, Sikh policemen with -their scarlet turbans, Cinghalese, Parsees, mingling with our own -officers and soldiers, under the shadow of the trees. - -And then we drive out to the Happy Valley, and come suddenly upon that -beautiful green lawn, lying so naturally in the midst of luxuriantly -wooded hills. It is truly a felicitous little spot, with its racecourse -marked out by white railing and its Grand Stand. But it is the cemetery -which fills us with admiration, and one would fain that the Happy -Valley were not desecrated by the racecourse, but rather consecrated to -the peaceful repose of the dead. They are separated only by the breadth -of the road. - -Of all the God's acres in all parts of the world, including the -beautiful one of Mount Auburn, at Boston, but perhaps excepting the -English cemetery on the heights of Scutari, at Constantinople, or -that at Cannes, this one of the Happy Valley is the most perfect. -Entering by a gate in the walls, you find yourself in a tropical -garden, skilfully laid out, and growing around you in profuse -luxuriance,--palms with graceful waving arms, mighty clumps of -feathery bamboos, delicate spreading tree ferns, crotons of orange -and yellow and variegated green, hibiscus with their single blood-red -blossom, colias, camellia and azaleas, bushes of flowering wax-like -alamanders, trailing masses of purple buganvillea, all the hot-house -flowers we prize at home, and that grow so unwillingly with us, when -compared to this almost oppressive wealth of nature. Amongst the bright -gravel paths and green lawns, rise massive pillars, granite crosses -and cenotaphs, memorials erected by soldiers and sailors to their -comrades--to many who, alas! have perished from the deadly effects of a -climate which yet produces all this beauty that is around us. - -We return to luncheon at Government House, on the kindly invitation of -General and Mrs. Barker, the acting-governor until Sir William Robinson -arrives next month. With a scramble, and the aid of the Government -steam-launch, we just catch the _Calédonien_ as she weighs anchor. We -passed out through the southern passage of the Island, on our way to -Saigon, the capital of French Cochin China. - - - - -CHAPTER XII. - -COCHIN CHINA. - - -For the last two days we have been in sight of the coast of Annam. - -When shall we be at Cape St. Jacques? Shall we lose the tide? This is -the question which one asks of the other on board. And by 6 a.m. we -find ourselves at rest, waiting outside the bar of the river Dannai, -for the tide to turn, to ascend inland to Saigon. Saigon is the French -capital of Cochin China, or Indo-China, as it is called, and is the -chief city of the provinces of Annam, Tonquin, and before long of -Gambogia, when the present King dies. - -Cape St. Jacques is a pretty green foreland, jutting out into the -sea, fringed with cocoa-nut palms, and has a large white hotel, built -by the Pilot. Surely by this roadstead upon the hills, courting the -breezes of the north-east monsoon, with the ample anchorage in the -rear, the French might have fixed the capital of Cochin China. But -no. They placed it, as in olden time, far up a tortuous river, with a -narrow channel. The delay, and the pilotage, frighten away the ocean -greyhounds of commerce. - -We weigh anchor. It is one o'clock. The sun is blazing hot, and there -is not a breath of air. But it is cool, they say, compared to what -Saigon will be. We shall see. Now we are in the winding channel. North, -south, east, west, we steer. Larboard! Triboard! Four hours we steam up -the river Dannai, with its flat banks of mangrove swamps, and tangle of -tropical vegetation, where they say tigers come out to sun themselves -on the sands. We sight at length the cathedral towers of Saigon. -They are to the right of us. In another instant they will be to the -left. Then we appear to have passed them, for we see the town on the -starboard quarter. - -But at five we are at the quay, which is shaded by avenues of trees, -with the hibiscus, blossoming garden of the agent's house opposite--an -old temple with rows of fierce-tailed dragons guarding the roof. On the -wharf, the usual motley crowd thickening every minute as the news of -our arrival spreads, whilst Victorias, drawn by those beautiful, though -rat-like, ponies that are bred in Tonquin, are in waiting. These latter -only come out at five in the evening, and in the daytime we must be -content with the malabars, as the shuttered gharries are called, from -the Annamite name of the coachman. - -We take the fashionable drive of Saigon, the _tour d'inspection_. Off -we go, flying as the wind, past some native houses, built on piles over -a green swamp, with waving palms above them. Here flourish the Cochin -China pig, the real pig of original breed, with its pink, bow-shaped -back, and earth-touching stomach, and the bright-plumaged Cochin China -fowls. We should like to buy specimens of the animals that have made -Cochin China celebrate at home, but doubt the warmth of our reception -on board-ship if we return with them. We cross the bridge, and look -over the hundreds of sampans that swarm up this creek of the river; -then drive along for a few yards by the steam tramway which connects -the China town of Cholons with Saigon, out under the cool wide avenues -of the Quai du Commerce, with its arsenal and Bureaux d'Affaires. The -roads are as flat and firm as a billiard table. - -Beautiful boulevards, wide streets, great cafés, where pale-faced -Frenchmen sip absinthe and petits verres. It is Paris. Bravo, La -France! But it would be much better for these gay causeurs, to play -lawn-tennis, and football, cricket, rackets and rounders, as do the -English at Hong Kong, Singapore, and Colombo, thus defying, in large -measure, or at least postponing, the action of the tropics. It is -thirty years since the French acquired Saigon and Cochin China. At -one time it promised to be a prosperous colony. But that day is past. -Commercial depression reigns supreme, and France wearies of the large -subsidies swallowed up without results by Tonquin. That, though, is not -our business. We rather admire the feats of engineering, of laying out, -and the horticultural skill. - -[Illustration: BOTANICAL GARDEN, SAIGON.] - -We see this in perfection in the Jardin d'Acclimitasion, but with a -wealth of natural vegetation, how easy it is to make a garden such a -paradise as is this. In the deep bend of the river are the green lawns -and forest-trees of this botanical garden. There are banyan trees with -their trellise curtains of roots sweeping the ground, cacti in a mighty -spiky group, standing apart. Single aloes, with their blooming crests, -and the palms--they form a palmery of themselves, with the various -specimens of cocoa or tree palms, their straight grey stems tufted at -the top; of sago palms, with their graceful curving arms, shadowing the -lawns; of travellers, with their hands of mighty fingers outspread from -the single stem, all and every kind luxuriantly magnificent, a single -one of which would assist in making the fortune of a London florist, -such as we who see them dwarfed and frozen when exiled to our northern -climes, are scarcely able to realize that they are of the same species. -There are magnolias and camellias, growing to the height of our -forest trees, bamboo clumps, whose single-jointed stems spring equally -high, and mimosa trees, with their tender sensitive leaf, as spreading -as our chestnuts. And all these trees are banked up with and grow out -of brilliant beds of variegated green and yellow crotons, of caladiums, -with their enormous boat-shaped leaves of pink oleanders, of crimson -hibiscus, and purple bougainvillea, and cconvolvulus, whilst orange -and lemon trees, India rubber and mangoes, mingle with the heavy green -and yellow melon-like fruit of the pommelo. In the midst of this is an -aviary, and cages of rare animals, natives of these tropical regions. -We particularly notice the white pigeon, with the single blood-red spot -on the bosom. - -We wander about in the dusky growth of overpowering luxuriance, -which to us appears so supremely beautiful, but which they say in its -monotonous green, palls upon you when you live amongst it. We come upon -a cool arbour, formed of green lattices overgrown with creepers and -passion flower, containing an exquisite fernery, damp and green, with -a collection of orchids of the rarest kinds--indeed, we saw several -specimens of the hardier ones in purple and yellow, growing on the -trees near the wharf. The twilight of this little open-air conservatory -is made darker by the enormous bananas outside, under whose pale green -sword-like leaves, cluster such heavy bunches of fruit, fifty or sixty -on a single stalk. - -Night though closes quickly in, and if we would see the Annamite -suburbs we must give rein to our impatient little black steeds and bowl -swiftly out into the country, by some fields of brilliant pale green -rice, where the monster grey water buffaloes, with branching horns laid -backwards, strong and patient, are being driven home from working in -them, by coolies, hidden under bamboo hats the size of umbrellas. The -marshes have been in a measure drained, but the miasma rises thickly -from the rice fields, near which cluster the wretched huts of thatched -bamboo. - -On we go, now through an avenue entirely composed of the glossy leaved -magnolia or another of feathery mimosa, broken only by groves of -tufted cocoa palms. Then we reach the military boundary, and returning -homewards another way, pass the cemetery where many a Frenchman lies -low. Along these shady avenues, deep and cool, we see the walled -compounds and overgrown gardens of the bungalows of officers and -merchants, of whom about 1700 reside in Saigon. We meet many of them -out for their evening drive, flying along in Victorias, to gain as -much air as possible. There are many smart-looking officers in white -uniforms, with their wives by their side--pale French ladies, but in -Parisian fashions. Poor things, they appear sickly and enervated, yet -robust compared to the shop-keepers, who look, if they do not say so, -as if it was trouble enough to rise on the entrance of a customer, -without serving them. - -But it should be a great colony. The Governor-General's palace is -magnificent--a Versailles, with its long flights of steps and spacious -balconies. But his Excellency is always at Hanoi, vainly endeavouring -to get things straight in Tonquin. The Cathedral, with its dim aisles -and stained glass; the Grecian colonnades of the Palais de Justice; -the post-offices; the theatre, with its bi-weekly performances; the -Officers' Club, where the punkahs are lyslow waving to and fro in the -balconies,--all betoken the great intentions of its founders. - -And there are statues of Francis Garnier, the intrepid and disavowed -explorer of the way to south-western China, and in the centre of the -great boulevard, leading to the Governor's palace, we distinguish a -very large stout man on a great pedestal, his stomach far protruding. -When we come near, we see whom it represents: Gambetta in the fur coat -worn in the balloon whence he escaped from Paris during the siege, -to instil life into France, with his outstretched finger pointing in -the direction of Tonquin, as in the memorable day when he came to the -Chamber, and said, 'Messieurs, au Tonkin!' A dying soldier, in the act -of falling, is on one side, and a sailor, with a bayonet peeping round -as if in search of the enemy, on the other. The reverse side of this -fine monument bears the legend: "À Gambetta, le patriote, défenseur de -la politique coloniale." - -In the evening some went to the opera, Traviata, played by the -subsidized company, to distract the garrison. The sight, however, of -the house with its myriad waving fans, was enough for us. We could not -face the heat. - -What an awful night we passed on board! Four steam winches in charge -of seventy shouting French, with ports shut, tropical heat, and -mosquitoes by the million. It was over at sunrise like a bad dream. But -a sorry sight, the languid heavy-eyed passengers, with not a face but -was severely wounded, presented next morning; for none had slept, and -all had come off worsted in the conflict with those venomous brutes. -Glad we were of daylight to go on shore, and set off in a gharry at -seven o'clock to the open arcades where the curio shops are. The -black woodwork inlaid with mother-of-pearl that comes from Tonquin is -very pretty, but otherwise we only see curiosities common to other -countries. We drive past gardens, which, as in France, are unrailed -and open to the public, to the market square, with its deep red-roofed -market hall, where a busy scene of buying and selling is progressing. -We notice many French cafés, the familiar little marble-topped tables, -looking strange among the palm trees of the gardens. There are many -French officers, in solar topees and cotton umbrellas, strolling in -the streets, but though the French element predominates, there is a -wonderful mixture of races--of Chinese, Annamites with their heads -bound in red cloths, Cinghalese with high tortoiseshell comb, and -Indians in sarong; and the languages are as varied, for here the -Chinese and natives have learnt French, instead of pigeon English. - -By nine o'clock the sun on the top of the gharry is overpowering. We -are quite overcome by the heat, and abandoning all idea of going by -the steam tramway to Cholons, the neighbouring emporium of the Rice -of Annam, return on board. But at eleven o'clock the thermometer in -the shade registered 95° Fahrenheit, and in the sun about 130°, and we -lay on the deck ready to succumb to the awful breathless heat, just -existing through the long midday hours of the worst part of the day. - -The tropical vegetation of Saigon had entranced us, but its charms -faded before the experience of this equatorial temperature by which -alone it can be produced. We were grateful when at five o'clock the -twenty-four hours' sojourn required by the Government contract were -over, and we left Cochin China on our homeward voyage. - -It is a long, long journey home to England, this one of 10,000 miles -from Shanghai to London--lasting for five weeks. - -Day after day goes by with the same routine, until we feel that we are -automatons. Passengers come and go at the various ports, but "we go on -for ever." Night and day there is heard the ceaseless throbbing of the -engines, like the beating heart of some great monster. It lulls you to -sleep, keeps you company in the silence of the night, and greets you -in the morning, and when we are in port, we unconsciously feel that -something is wanting. It is a cheering noise, for every revolution of -the screw brings us nearer home; 4368 times does it revolve in one -hour, and it takes 3,600,000 revolutions to bring us to Marseilles. -We consume 52 tons of coal a day, or 1800 tons for the whole voyage, -whilst 8000 kilos of oil are used for the machinery. - -The ship is like a floating city with a cosmopolitan population, -for we have over twenty different nationalities on board: French, -English, German, Spanish, Italian, Japanese, Russian, Chinese, Dutch, -Austrians, Arabians, Indians, etc., and yet all goes smoothly, save for -the passing incident of a passionate Frenchman, who came to ask the -captain's permission to fight a duel with an officer from Tonquin, for -usurping his place at table. - -It is a monotonous thirty-six days of life at sea, alternating with -frantic rushes to land, when in port, and sometimes sleeping on shore, -where, like at Singapore and Colombo, the ship is hermetically sealed -for coaling. Then there is dire confusion on board, everyone loses his -head, the stewards are beside themselves, and the organization becomes -sadly out of gear. We are thankful to put out to sea once more, into -the breeze and calm, to sail away into that great trackless space -so well defined "as a circle whose centre is everywhere, and whose -circumference nowhere." - -We touch at Singapore, and spend the night at Government House, -noting the growth of the town, and the great improvements since we -were there six years ago. Through the Straits of Malacca, past Acheen -Head, the extreme westerly point of Sumatra to Colombo--Colombo with -its beautiful sea-shore, where amidst palm groves, the blue breakers of -the Indian Ocean are ever rolling in, and casting their surf and foam -on the golden sands. Through its tropical avenues we drive, past the -barracks, where the pipe of the bagpipes is heard, wailing in their far -exile, and the handsome Cingalese merchants, with their checked sarongs -and tortoiseshell combs, tempt us with precious stones. Mount Adam, -with his pillar-like peak, in the centre of Ceylon, does us honour by -showing himself (a rare occurrence) as we put out once more to sea, -through the magnificent breakwater of Colombo. - -Six days' steaming, and we cast anchor under rocky Aden, whose peaks so -barren and sterile, are yet picturesquely deformed, and glowing with -warm tints of cobalt and carmine. Then we enter the Red Sea, through -the Straits of Babelmandeb, by England's key to the Eastern hemisphere, -the Island of Perim, and pass fragrant Mocha on the sandy shore. - -One hundred hours through this inland sea, and we are at Suez waiting -our turn to enter that great highway of nations, that sandy ditch cut -through the desert, that connects the eastern with the western globe. -In the daytime we have that strange fascination linked to the boundless -plain of sand--the mirage flickering on the horizon, the clear pale -blue and pink shades that steal over the desert at sundown, with the -golden glory of the sunset sinking slowly into the waters of the Bitter -Lake, whilst at night the banks of the canal are illuminated by the -broad shafts of light, that sweep from the electric lamp in the bows of -every ship. - -We spend a dreary Sunday at Port Said, amid its dirty streets, rubbishy -oriental shops, thievish donkey-boys, and a population which gathers in -the scum of the earth. - -The Harbour of Alexandria is entered at sunrise next day, and we look -in the dull chill of early morning on its quays and forts, its mosqued -domes and windmills, but ere the day is really begun we are on our way -joyfully cleaving the waters of the Mediterranean, near, so near home -now. The chill winds and the grey atmosphere would make us know we are -in Europe once more. The hard even-coloured skies of the East, burning -with brazen sun, have been left on the other side of the Canal, and now -the skies are full of grey and purple clouds, silver-edged, soft and -rounded. The Southern Cross has sunk below the horizon, the brilliant -starlight nights, with the purple vault of heaven gemmed with diamond -stars, have faded into the past. - -Now the snow-clad mountains of Candia or Crete rise up from the ocean -above low-lying clouds. Then, the danger of avoiding Charybdis to be -wrecked on Scylla safely passed, we thread the green Straits of Messina -between the toe of Italy and the Island of Sicily. The smoking cone of -Etna is invisible, but the little island volcano of Stromboli shoots -forth its black column of lava. - -The beacon lighthouses of the Straits of Bonifacio mark out our course -between the islands of Sardinia and Corsica. And by the next afternoon -the vine-terraced mountains and sunny shores of the Corniche are near -at hand, with the white villas of Toulon shining in the sunlight. - -The last day on board, the last packing, the last dinner, the last -evening. What a pleasant bustle of departure, what a feeling of _bonne -camaraderie_ prevails! With the contagious sympathy of joy, passengers -speak to each other who have held aloof for the whole month's voyage. -We are all restless and excited, and only able to discuss the hour of -arrival--no, not the hour, it is the half-hours and quarters that we -dispute and wager about. - -The sun goes down. The great white cliffs--for they are very near to -us now--loom up ghostly in the dim twilight; these are bathed in pink -reflections from the rosy sky. We see the little chapel perched on -high, where the sailors implore the protection of the sainted Mary ere -commencing a voyage--the gloomy dungeon fortress of Château d'If on its -island, and with the last gleams of daylight we sight the green Prado, -the cathedral towers of Notre Dame, and the large seaport of Marseilles. - -For two days we linger in the sunny south, under blue skies and warm -sunshine, amid the palms, cacti, and hedges of roses. - -We reach Paris in time to see the gorgeous obsequies at the Madeleine -of Dom Pedro, the ex-Emperor of Brazil. Then ends our second journey -round the world with a fearful gale in the English Channel, reaching -Charing Cross in the raw cold and fog of a December night. - - - - -APPENDIX. - -BY - -C. E. HOWARD VINCENT, C.B., M.P. - - - - -BRITISH AND AMERICAN TRADE IN CANADA. - -MEMORANDUM - - _Addressed to the Chamber of Commerce and Manufacture of Sheffield - upon British and American Trade in the Dominion of Canada and the - McKinley Tariff in the United States._ - -_September, 1891._ - - -INTERNAL TRADE. - -1.--It is necessary in the first place to state that the internal -trade of Canada has made vast progress during the past decade. Not only -is this evident from the numerous factories at the principal centres, -but it is corroborated by the rapid extension and development of -Toronto, Hamilton, Winnipeg and other towns. Manufacture has taken such -rapid strides that not only is a very large proportion of the articles -in daily use of home make, but the whole of the iron bridges and much -of the plant upon the gigantic railway system, and the greater part of -the agricultural machinery are of Canadian construction, but there is a -surplusage for export of certain manufactured goods, amounting in the -fiscal year ending June, 1890, to 5-3/4 million dollars--upwards of -two-fifths of which were purchased by the British flag. - - -INCREASE OF EXTERNAL TRADE. - -2.--The external trade (imports and exports) has also increased from -153 million dollars in 1879, when the "National Policy" was inaugurated -by the late Right Honourable Sir John Macdonald, to 218 million dollars -in the last statistical year. - - -IMPORTS FROM THE UNITED KINGDOM AND THE EMPIRE. - -3.--The imports from the United Kingdom of British and Irish produce -have increased from 5,040,524_l._ in 1879, to 7,702,798_l._ in 1889. - -In the twelve months, July 1st, 1889, to June 30th, 1890, the purchases -by Canada from the British Empire amounted to 45-3/4 million dollars, -or only 6-1/2 million dollars less than from the United States with -their 60,000,000 of people and conterminous frontier of over 3000 -miles, running especially close to the more settled and affluent -portions of the Dominion. - -This is the more satisfactory when it is considered that less than -one-fourth of the British imports were admitted free of a duty -averaging 25 per cent. ad valorem, while two-fifths of the American -imports were from their nature untaxed. - - -COMPETITION BETWEEN BRITISH AND AMERICAN FLAGS. - -4.--The Union Jack upon the one hand, and the Stars and Stripes upon -the other, are practically the only two competitors for the custom of -Canada, and they absorb between them 98 million dollars worth of the -import trade out of a total of 112 million dollars. - - -SUPERIORITY OF ENGLAND. - -5.--In most of the great lines of manufactured goods, such as in the -manufactures of iron and steel: of cutlery; of cotton and silk; of wool -and linen; of lead, paper and fur; of hemp, twine and earthenware, as -also in hats, gloves, combs, umbrellas, embroideries, ribbons, crapes, -oilcloth, iron furniture, fancy articles, and in bottled ale, beer and -porter, England more than holds her own against the American Republic. - - -FOREIGN INTERMIXTURE. - -6.--At the same time it is right to observe that a considerable and -increasing proportion of the imports officially attributed to British -production were in reality of German, French, or other foreign origin, -and this to an amount exceeding last year six million dollars. - -They were obtained, however, through English distributing houses -instead of direct, partly by reason of transit facilities, but mostly -on account of the long credit readily accorded. - - -LEAD OF THE UNITED STATES. - -7.--The United States on the other hand take the lead with manufactures -of brass and copper; of gutta-percha and India-rubber; of slate, -stone, and wood; of cork and glass; of leather and tin ware, as also -in edge tools, Britannia metal, bells, brushes, buttons, carriages, -clocks and watches, jewellery, musical and surgical instruments, and in -agricultural implements. - - -SHEFFIELD TRADE IN CANADA. - -8.--In the staple trades of Sheffield, with the exception of -edge-tools, the ascendency of England is fairly well maintained. - - -CUTLERY. - -9.--Especially is this the case with regard to cutlery. Out of 311,897 -dollars (say 62,500_l._) worth of table knives, jack knives, pocket -knives, and other cutlery imported into the Dominion during the past -year, about two-thirds came from the United Kingdom. - -Of the remainder the United States supplied 27,900 dollars worth, and -Germany 43,500 dollars worth. - -Not a few importers of Sheffield cutlery speak anxiously, -however, of the growing competition of Newark (New Jersey) and of -Germany--especially in the production of attractively got up and -elegantly carded knives at low prices. - -In Canada itself only one attempt has, I believe, been made to -establish a cutlery factory, and this recently at Halifax by a young -Sheffield man, assisted by six or eight Sheffield trained artisans. -They speak hopefully of their prospects and are meeting with much local -encouragement. - - -PLATED CUTLERY. - -It is right to add that although throughout the Dominion the table -cutlery bears the names of the leading Sheffield houses, the more -easily cleaned plated cutlery is coming into some use. During the past -year 919 dozen were imported, to which the United States contributed -774 dozen and Great Britain only 140. - - -FILES. - -10.--In files and rasps the import from England amounted to 34,358 -dollars (say 6800_l._), and from the United States to 45,724 dollars. - - -SAWS. - -11.--In saws the United States made even greater headway with a total -consignment amounting to 14,000_l._, while Great Britain sent scarcely -600_l._ worth. - - -EDGE TOOLS. - -12.--A like disproportion occurs with regard to edge tools, of which -the United States supplied 15,000 dollars worth out of a total external -purchase by the Dominion of 18,279 dollars. - -This has been explained by the untiring efforts constantly made by -American manufacturers and their employés to make all tools more and -more adapted for the purpose in view, lighter and more facile to the -hand, without the slightest regard to former use, old ideas or customs. - - -AXES. - -13.--It is frequently alleged that Sheffield lost the Canadian axe -trade by adherence to the opinion that it was a better judge of -the shape of the handle or the chopper than the backwoodsmen whose -livelihood depended upon the skilful use of the axe. - -This must, however, be legendary, for I am told we never had the -Dominion axe trade. - -In any case, at the present time nearly all the axes used in the vast -lumber industry are of Canadian make, and out of a total import of 6751 -dollars worth last year, the whole came from the United States, with -the exception of a single axe contributed by France. - - -SPADES AND SHOVELS. - -14.--Of spades and shovels 4000 dollars worth were imported from Great -Britain against 6259 dollars worth from the United States. - - -SCYTHES. - -In scythes the two countries each supplied one half of a total import -of 6731 dollars worth. - - -AGRICULTURAL IMPLEMENTS. - -15.--But in other agricultural implements--ploughs, drills, harrows, -forks, rakes, mowing machines, harvesters, etc., America supplied no -less than 117,000 dollars worth, against only 4000 dollars worth, from -Great Britain. - -The explanation given is similar to that I have often heard in -Australasia, that the high-priced, solid made, somewhat heavy and -durable machines and implements which find favour in England, are -unsuitable for Colonists with small capital, who want a cheap, handy -and light implement which can be replaced as soon as a year or two -brings easier means, and sees improvements perfected. - -It is indeed stated in proof of the adoption of like ideas in the -mother country that more Ontario-made self-binding reapers have been -sold this year in Great Britain than any of English manufacture. - - -BAR IRON, PIGS, RAILS, ETC. - -16.--It is, however, in bar iron; in boiler or other plate iron; in -hoop, band, or scroll iron; in iron, in slabs, blooms, etc.; in iron -pigs; in railway bars, rails and fish plates; in rolled iron or steel -angles, beams, girders, etc.; in sheet iron, and in wrought iron or -steel tubing that the United Kingdom asserts the greatest predominance -with an importation last year into Canada amounting to 2,356,523 -dollars against 642,129 dollars worth from the United States--that is, -nearly fourfold. - -At Londonderry in Nova Scotia important rolling mills have been -established, and at Toronto and elsewhere in Ontario there are -prosperous foundries. - - -MACHINERY. - -17.--England though falls back again seriously in machinery, composed -wholly or in part of iron, in locomotive, fire, or other engines, and -in cast iron vessels, plates, etc., as also in builders', cabinet -makers', carriage and harness makers' hardware, and in house furnishing -hardware. - -In these lines Great Britain supplied Canada with only about -100,000_l._ worth, compared to 500,000_l._ from the United States. - -In connection with machinery it may not be amiss to mention the -almost invariable practice, throughout the American continent, for -all machinery under the control either of the State or public bodies -being kept spotlessly clean and as attractive as possible, and, in -the case of all stationary engines, allowing the public to see them -in operation, from a gallery or other suitable place, so that humble -mechanical genius may feast its eyes, and think out problems or -improvements, which may advance their authors to wealth, and place -further names upon the roll of the world's inventors. - - -ELECTRO-PLATE AND BRITANNIA METAL. - -18.--In electro-plated ware and gilt ware of all kinds the import from -Great Britain amounted last year to 51,041 dollars, and to 98,669 -dollars from the United States, while in manufactures of Britannia -metal (not plated) the importation from America amounted to 40,000 -dollars, or eight times that from Great Britain. - - -PREDOMINANCE OF BRITISH MANUFACTURES OF COTTON AND WOOL. - -19.--It is not necessary to examine in like detail the relative -trade in the Dominion of Great Britain and the United States in -the manufactures which are not located in Sheffield. But it may be -mentioned that the purchases by Canada of British cotton goods exceeded -three million dollars last year against one-fifth that amount from -the United States, in velveteens exceeded 82,000 dollars from Britain -against only 356 dollars from America: while the sale to Canadians of -British manufactures of wool were over ten million dollars, or too -times that of the States. - - -THE EMPIRE, CANADA'S BEST CUSTOMER. - -20.--While, as has been shown, Canada bought last year of Great -Britain and Ireland, and British possessions, to an amount exceeding -forty-five millions of dollars, the Empire was in return the best -customer of the Dominion, purchasing no less than 44,479,992 dollars -worth of Canadian products, or 11,156,785 dollars worth more than the -United States, and admitting nearly the whole free of all duty. - - -PREFERENTIAL TRADE WITHIN THE EMPIRE. - -21.--It is hardly to be expected that Canada, with her scanty and -hard-working population could, with the example of every nation or -colony (save one) before her, attempt to raise by direct taxation the -twenty-four million dollars of public revenue she now derives from -customs duties. - -But there can be little doubt that if a preference was obtained for -British over foreign goods in the tariff, it would give just that -pecuniary advantage calculated to stimulate the undoubted partiality of -most British colonists for British made goods, if they themselves are -unable to produce them in adequate quantity. - -Such preferential trade, large public meetings I have recently -addressed in all the principal commercial centres, on behalf of the -United Empire Trade League, have declared with practical unanimity and -much support from both political parties, that Canada is willing to -exchange with the mother country and the Empire, so soon as foreign -treaty hindrances (treaties with Belgium and Germany of 1862 and 1865) -are removed--it being calculated that no policy would more certainly -advance the prosperity, peopling and capitalization of the whole -country and the consequent augmentation of customers. - - -MEANS OF COMMERCIAL NEGOTIATION. - -22.--No more effective means either could probably be found to bring -about that reduction of the United States tariff wall, so much desired -both by the Dominion of Canada and the mother country, for it would -furnish her Majesty's representatives with a weapon of commercial -persuasion they now wholly lack in negotiating with foreign countries. - - -EFFECT OF THE MCKINLEY TARIFF. - -23.--It may be too early perhaps to judge definitely as to the effect -of the McKinley tariff upon British trade in the United States, There -can, however, be no doubt that in many industries, and especially among -the receivers of wages in the United Kingdom, it will be very serious, -and tend still further to extend the disproportion between the sales of -America to Great Britain and the purchases by America of British goods, -which have stood for some time in the adverse ratio of three to one. - - -MUCH CHANGE NOT TO BE EXPECTED. - -24.--It is necessary, therefore, to say that while the organs of -the democratic party in the United States and the sanguine views of -American importers who are in personal or correspondence relations with -England, encourage a hope that the McKinley tariff will be repealed -or considerably modified in the near future, I am convinced that, as -matters stand, such belief is to a great extent delusive. - -In the first place the democratic majority in the House of -Representatives, as at present constituted, is practically powerless in -the face of a strong and hostile Senate, with an equal mandate from the -people, and in the face too of an antagonistic President, to a great -extent independent of either, with all his Ministers and machinery of -government. - -In the second place democratic leaders and advocates in every locality -are eager to protest that they do not now desire free trade, do not -dream of admitting duty free the productions of competing foreign -workmen, and that they aim only at a reduction of the tariff. - -Again, it is now well understood that the alleged rise in prices at -the time of the election last year for Congress was artificial and -impressed upon voters by skilful wire-pulling--such as the hiring -of itinerant pedlars to perambulate the agricultural districts with -household wares marked up at double cost; by urging democratic retail -dealers to serve their party (and their tills) by demanding greatly -increased sums for all goods during the campaign "in consequence of the -new tariff." - - -INDUSTRIAL PROSPERITY IN THE UNITED STATES. - -25.--There appears to be little doubt that the Federal Commission -now sitting will find that, although in some districts there may -have been speculating failures, employment was never upon the whole -more plentiful or better remunerated than at the present time. As in -Canada so in the United States, it is work which is everywhere seeking -hands--and not, as with us, men searching, too often vainly, for -employment. - -On both sides of the border between Canada and the United States the -necessaries of life--wheat, flour, bread, meat, are extraordinarily -cheap and excellent, while artisan clothing, so often reputed dear and -pressing upon the family purse, is readily obtainable, so old Sheffield -men have assured me, in very fair quality at from 8 dollars 50 cents. -to 12 or 14 dollars per suit, that is 1_l._ 14_s._ to 2_l._ 16_s._ -Indeed, before me is the advertisement of a New York house offering -"Jersey Cloth (silk finish, new), blue, black or brown, per suit 14 -dollars, quality XXX." - -Beyond question the whole standard of industrial life is higher than in -Europe--higher too, I am sorry to have to admit, than in Great Britain. -Neither poverty nor distress are visible, while drunkenness, so far as -it may exist, is kept carefully out of sight. - - -AMERICAN RECIPROCITY TREATIES. - -26.--It will be probably less, however, on the industrial prosperity -of American workers, on the success of the high tariff in compelling -competitors for the custom of the American people, to employ their -capital within the United States, to pay wages to Americans, and use -American materials, that the Republican party will appeal next year -for a new Presidential lease of power (with what chance of success I -do not pretend to prophecy), than upon the unexpected triumph that has -attended Section III., or the Reciprocity clause of the McKinley Tariff -Act in the hands of Mr. Secretary Blaine. - -Already under its provisions free entry for American productions and -manufactures has been secured into Brazil--a market taking in 1889 -6,232,316_l._ worth of British goods--in exchange for the free entry -of the raw materials and other commodities of that Republic so rich in -natural wealth. - -The same result has been achieved, and will shortly come into force -with regard to Spanish possessions, taking together 8,000,000_l._ worth -of British products every year. - - -TO BREAK UP BRITISH TRADE. - -27.--This latter treaty is viewed with especial concern in Canada, and -the notice of terminating the Anglo-Spanish treaty of commerce which -has been given, gives rise to a fear that the Americans will secure the -trade with the Spanish Indies heretofore enjoyed by the Dominion. - -Both treaties will also very injuriously affect the interests of the -fishermen of Newfoundland, who among the Catholic population of Brazil -and the territories of Spain seek the principal market for that dried -fish, the sale of which, until improved fish trade and other mercantile -relations are established with England, as they might easily be, -constitutes their principal means of existence. - -A like treaty has been concluded with San Domingo, and others are in -active negotiation. - -The vaunted object is "the breaking up piece-meal of British foreign -trade," and whether or no it obtains that aim, the untoward influence -these treaties, placing American trade upon a preferential basis, are -calculated to exert in that direction, is not, I fear, a circumstance -well calculated to induce the masses of the American people, in their -present frame of mind, very speedily to destroy the instrument. - - -EFFECT OF BRITISH INACTION. - -28.--It is a paramount duty to direct the attention of the Sheffield -Chamber of Manufacture, as a body representative of the commercial and -industrial community of Great Britain and Ireland, to this practical -aspect of the present situation, lest buoyed up by a vain hope that the -markets of the United States will be thrown open, England allows all -opportunity to pass of following the example of America and Central -Europe in establishing preferential trading relations on mutually -advantageous terms. A commercial union richer in its prospects than -any attainable by whatever phalanx of foreign nations, lies now, but -not for much longer, ready to her hand--that of the British Empire, of -a fifth of the entire world, peopled or fostered by her own people, -capitalized by her own capital. - -Inaction much longer maintained on the part of the mother country -will be ascribed by the energetic minds of Greater Britain to callous -indifference to Imperial responsibilities, and can have no other effect -than to expose Canada, Newfoundland, the West Indies, British Guiana -and British Honduras, aggregating not much short of half the area of -the Empire, and not impossibly other Colonies, to the temptation of -entering instead into commercial alliance with the United States, -involving discrimination in favour of foreigners against the British -flag, which even the loyalty of the most loyal Colonial subjects of her -Majesty the Queen may not, with due regard to their material interests, -be able to resist. - - -AMERICAN PIONEERS OF COMMERCE. - -29.--But in any event I must note the amazing energy and push shown -by American business houses. On every journey in nearly every quarter -of the globe you meet their representatives, who lose no opportunity -of skilfully advancing American trade; and while Germany, backed by a -vigilant Government, is following closely in the same direction with -astonishing results, the reports of her Majesty's Consular officers -agree in declaring that the appearance of an English commercial -traveller becomes more and more rare. - - -BOARDS OF TRADE. - -30.--American Boards of Trade, corresponding to our Chambers of -Commerce, are also very active organizations, sparing neither expense -nor trouble. - -They occupy a like position in Canada, and in Toronto the Board -of Trade--an enthusiastic meeting whereof I had the honour of -addressing--has erected a palatial building, where business men meet -daily for the mutual exchange of information and views. The turn of -the market is recorded from hour to hour from the centres of commerce, -and among the members there exists an admirable system of mutual life -insurance. - - -CANADA AS A FIELD FOR BRITISH CAPITAL AND IMMIGRATION. - -31.--In conclusion, it is hardly possible to speak of Canada in -exaggerated terms as a source from which Great Britain may most readily -obtain the larger portion of the supply of corn, meat, and dairy -produce, her increased population and diminished agriculture oblige her -to purchase from over the sea. - -The extremely fertile and virgin soil of the vast region occupied -by Manitoba, the North-West Territories, and British Columbia--half -the size of Europe, and lying between Lake Superior and the Pacific -Ocean--has now been provided by British Canadian enterprise with -a complete network of railways, bringing it, so soon as Atlantic -communication by Nova Scotia and Newfoundland has been improved, to -within fourteen days' steam of Liverpool. - -Capital and immigration are alone needed for their development. - -A better field for the former could not be found if British Commercial -Union made the market secure of foreign caprice, while for steady -industry under the old flag, under like institutions, under the same -law, no wider scope exists in the universe. - - - - -BRITISH TRADE WITH JAPAN. - -MEMORANDUM - -ADDRESSED TO THE CUTLERS' COMPANY OF HALLAMSHIRE, UPON - -BRITISH TRADE WITH JAPAN. - - -PROGRESS OF JAPAN. - -1.--Little idea can be formed of the progress and development of Japan -without a personal visit. That the Japanese Empire should have been -brought in less than a quarter of a century from barbaric darkness and -isolation to a leading place in the civilized world, is not the least -remarkable event of the present generation. The fact that this great -revolution has been accomplished without the pressure of external war, -and practically without internal riot or bloodshed, renders it the more -extraordinary. - -Some may affect to prefer the old order of things, may think that the -transition has been dangerously rapid, may sneer at the wonderful -adaptive faculty displayed. This is, however, certain, that in good -order and sobriety, in cleanliness and politeness, in industry and -contentment, the Japanese are already in the van of nations. - -The police, postal, telegraphic, and educational systems are tributes -to their capacity, while over 1400 miles of railway are being -efficiently worked by native employés. - -Care and caution will be undoubtedly very necessary for many years -to come. But if reliance upon indigenous talent, and the new law that -Japanese industrial undertakings must be represented by Japanese, are -not carried to an extravagant point, the next decade or two may see the -vast reforms not only matured, but carried onwards to a summit undreamt -of, when, in 1868, the country was released from the chains of ages; -or even when a score of years later his present Imperial Majesty, the -121st Mikado and Emperor of his race, voluntarily gave the nation one -of the clearest constitutions in existence "in consideration of the -progressive tendency of the course of human affairs and in parallel -with the advance of civilization." - - -CONCURRENT GROWTH OF BRITISH INTERESTS. - -2.--There is nothing more striking in this transformation than the -constant growth of British interests in the Empire, with which it has -been attended. - - ILLUSTRATED BY LARGE NUMBERS OF BRITISH RESIDENTS AND MERCANTILE - FIRMS AND PROPORTION OF TRADE AND SHIPPING. - -This is clearly illustrated by the following notable facts:-- - -(_a_) That British residents, numbering 1500 souls, of which two-thirds -are males, equal numerically the representatives in Japan of the whole -of the rest of the world, excluding the adjacent Chinese. - -(_b_) That a like state of affairs exists with regard not only to the -number of foreign mercantile firms, located in Japan, but also in the -proportion borne by the British flag of the external trade. - -(_c_) That since 1868, the first year of the new Japanese era, British -shipping in the waters of Japan has, according to the calculation -of her Majesty's Consul at Kobé, increased threefold in number and -fifteenfold in tonnage. It carried last year two-thirds of the (extra -Chinese) foreign trade, and 71 per cent. of the whole, in over 1000 -ships inwards and outwards, giving employment to more than 25,000 -persons, and this notwithstanding the harassing exclusion of foreign -vessels from any share in the large coasting trade between other than -the six open ports. - - -VOLUME OF JAPANESE EXTERNAL TRADE. - -3.--The external trade (imports and exports) of Japan has more than -doubled in the past ten years. It amounted in 1890 to 138-1/4 millions -of silver yen or dollars[2] (say 21,000,000_l._ sterling) against -62-1/4 million yens in 1881. The exports, of which the British Empire -took nearly a third, amounted to 54-3/4 million dollars; the imports to -81-3/4 millions. - - -THE FOREIGN ELEMENT AS A SOURCE OF WEALTH TO JAPAN. - -4.--The financial value to the Empire of the foreign commercial houses -is shown by the passage, through their agency, of 110 million dollars -worth of the total external trade. - -There is in addition the expenditure of many thousands of foreign -visitors to the natural beauties of the country--of which 70 per cent. -are calculated by Mr. Gubbins, secretary for Japanese to Her Majesty's -Legation, to be British,--a sum estimated at an extreme minimum of -three million dollars a year, or about 500,000_l._ - - -THE PASSPORT SYSTEM AND DISABILITY OF FOREIGNERS. - -There is hope that these important considerations may lead ere long -to a modification of the stringent passport regulations, and of the -disability attaching to the alien tenure of real estate, hindering as -it must do the permanent investment of capital. - - -PROPORTION OF EXTERNAL TRADE WITH SEVERAL FOREIGN COUNTRIES. - -5.--Foreign countries shared or divided in 1890 the external trade of -Japan in the following proportions:-- - - (_a_) Great Britain, 32·0 million dollars. - (_b_) British Colonial Empire, 27·0 " " - - Total British Flag, 59,000,000. dols. - - (_c_) United States, 26·0 million dollars. - (_d_) China, 14·8 " " - (_e_) France, 14·0 " " - (_f_) German, 9·0 " " - (_g_) Corea (adjacent), 5·6 " " - (_h_) Belgium, 1·0 " " - - All other countries less than - one million dollars each, - and aggregating, 9·4 " " - - -PURCHASES BY JAPAN OF BRITISH GOODS. - -6.--The purchases by Japan from the British Empire exceeded 41 million -dollars (say 6,750,000_l._), of which 26-1/2 millions worth were -obtained from the United Kingdom. - -Unfortunately, however, a not inconsiderable proportion of the imports -credited to Great Britain, are stated to have been of German, Belgian, -or other foreign make, and although obtained through English houses, -the advantage to the artisan community at home was thereby materially -reduced. - - -FALSE MARKING. - -The observations on this head of Consul Longford, in his report for -1886, are still deserving of attention:-- - -"While fully recognizing that it is only reasonable and right that -English merchants in Japan should go to those producing centres which -show the greatest readiness to meet and satisfy their demands, it is -at the same time unfortunate that they should import the goods which -they obtained from Germany with English marks and chops on them, even -though the latter are only intended to acquaint native dealers with the -name of the firm supplying them and not in any sense to designate the -country of origin or production... for means are thus placed in the -hands of the Japanese middlemen or the ultimate retailer, which may aid -him considerably in selling (inferior goods) as English." - - -MERCHANDISE MARKS ACTS. - -The enactment in the United Kingdom of the Merchandise Marks Act of -1887, so largely due to the Cutlers' Company, has no doubt modified -this evil at its base. It has not, however, stamped it out, partly -because foreign goods can still be imported into England, plain and -devoid of any indication of origin, and the detection of subsequent -false marking by the few dishonest, prior to home sale or foreign -exportation, is practically impossible; and partly because few foreign -nations have adopted a corresponding law, or if they have, it is rarely -enforced. - -The Japanese Trade Mark Regulations of October, 1884, do not touch the -question, and moreover have been judicially held, so Mr. Consul Hall -informs me, not to apply to foreigners or foreign goods. - - -PURCHASES BY JAPAN OF SHEFFIELD GOODS. - -7.--The purchases by Japan from Great Britain of those productions of -iron, steel, and hardware, in which Sheffield is mainly interested, -compare favourably with those from other foreign nations. - - -IRON PIG, BARS, RODS, RAILS, ETC. - -8.--In pig iron, iron bars, rods, plates, sheets, and rails, Japan -bought last year from England 1,424,000 dollars worth (say 235,000_l_.) -against one-fourth that amount from Germany, and only 20,000 dollars -worth from France. Even this large figure shows some shrinkage on the -British import in 1888-89, while the German, although so far behind, -has increased. - - -PIPES AND TUBES. - -9.--In iron pipes and tubes Great Britain supplied Japan in 1890 with -159,000 _yen_ worth, out of a total purchase of 166,000 dollars--an -increase of 98,000 dollars worth in two years. - - -NAILS. - -10.--In nails, however, Great Britain has fallen behind and given place -to Germany. Indeed, her Majesty's Consul at Yokohama says in his report -for last year:-- - -"The consumption of wire nails is steadily increasing. The demand for -nail rod is now almost extinct--manufactured nails being taken instead. -These nails are now mostly of German, and a few of Belgian origin." - -This is corroborated by the purchase from England of nails having -fallen from 342,000 dollars worth in 1888 to 134,000 dollars worth in -1890. - - -SCREWS. - -This is the more remarkable as in iron screws, Great Britain holds the -market with a supply of 70,000 dollars worth in 1890, against only 2000 -dollars worth by Germany, and a like amount by France. - - -STEEL. - -11.--In steel 162,000 dollars worth was obtained from England out of a -gross importation amounting to 194,000, France supplying 23,300 dollars -worth, and Germany, subject to the observations in paragraph 6, only -3900 dollars. - -Mr. Consul Troup has observed "that the steel imported by the -Government for the making of barrels at the small-arms factory at -Tokio, and for the Osaka arsenal is mostly French, German, or Italian, -and at the Yokosuka dockyard there is a certain preference for Creuzot -steel." - -With the approval of the Minister for Foreign Affairs, whose great -courtesy I take leave to acknowledge, and by permission of the Minister -of War, I visited the Osaka arsenal to ascertain the cause. - - -OSAKA ARSENAL. - -12.--It is an admirably organized institution with canal service direct -to the sea, provided with the best English, German, French, Italian, -and Austrian machinery, employing 1400 hands at an average wage of ten -pence for a ten hours' day, and turning out 24-ton guns, besides all -other material for a standing army, 80,000 strong, formed on the French -model with German improvements, and reserves 240,000 in number, but -deficient in officers. - - -ADVANTAGE OF THE METRIC SCALE. - -The Director, Lieutenant-Colonel T. Ota of the Imperial Artillery and -European trained, was so good as to give me for the Cutlers' Company, -on hearing that it included the members of the great iron and steel -firms, a complete set of photographs, illustrating the workshops, -the guns, and the target experiments. He expressed himself as fully -sensible of the excellence of the metal manufactures of Sheffield, and -their superiority, both in cost, quality, and workmanship, for original -productions. Upon the other hand, though, he frankly said that there -was so much risk of error in the measurement by "feet" and by "inches," -that it saved much anxiety and trouble, when specific and exact size -was required to order from Creuzot, or from Krupp, in the metric -scale, adopted by Japan of "mètres and millimètres." One well-known -English firm has in consequence, I understand, determined to follow the -German example, and to render specifications to foreign governments or -individuals in their own lineal and currency calculations. - - -PARTIALITY OF STUDENTS FOR COUNTRY OF EDUCATION. - -13.--In this connection the Consul at Yokohama calls attention to -another important matter. He says "the Government official prefers the -material of the country where he has received his training." - -The Japanese authorities have in the last fifteen years sent large -numbers of students to Europe. Many have given since their return solid -proof of their industry, perseverance, and natural aptitude. More -than one Continental Cabinet has taken an active interest in these -students. But not so, I understand, her Majesty's Government. Several -have consequently gone to France, Germany, Austria, and Italy, who -might with advantage have come to England, as well as those studying -ship-building and engineering. It is a matter not to be lost sight -of in the future, for there are other backward lands likely to be -stimulated by the bright example of Japan, and to endeavour to follow -it. - - -CUTLERY, TABLE KNIVES. - -14.--The imports of cutlery have averaged 21,000 dollars (say 3000_l._) -during each of the past three years, and practically the whole came -from Sheffield. It is a trade capable, I believe, of great development. -At the present time, the use of table cutlery is confined to the -foreign population and visitors, and to a small proportion of the -Japanese, perhaps 100,000 out of the forty millions. - -But this number is likely to increase every year, and, indeed, every -day, as European ideas, habits, and costume, encouraged, by the -imperial Court, the nobility, and the leaders of commerce and thought, -gain a firmer foothold. It is illustrated _inter alia_ by the wide -adoption of English head gear on the Lop of the native costume, and the -consequent importation of a million dollars worth of English hats and -caps in the last triennial period. - - -ENCOURAGEMENT OF TABLE CUTLERY. - -At a recent industrial conference with some of my constituents, an -artisan asked if nothing could be done to encourage Eastern races to -abandon "chop sticks" in favour of knives and forks. The question -created some amusement, but it showed much intelligence and acumen. It -has since occurred to me that possibly advantage might be taken of the -Japanese and Oriental generous custom of present-giving to stimulate -a taste for our cutlery, by enabling donors to obtain at a small cost -a gift knife and fork, attractively got up either upon a card or in a -case. In any case an experiment would not be ruinous. - - -RAZORS, SCISSORS, AND POCKET KNIVES. - -15.--I have obtained for the information of the Sheffield trade, -specimens of the razors, scissors, and pocket knives now in use among -the Japanese, and shall on my return forward them to the Cutlers' Hall. -As will be seen, they are of a very rough and primitive description. - - -SKILL OF JAPANESE AS CUTLERS. - -Time was when, according to Professor Rein, the German scientist sent -by the Prussian Government to report upon "The Industries of Japan," -"among the nations of Eastern Asia the Japanese were known as skilful -workers in iron, which their celebrated armourers transformed into -famous weapons of excellent steel. The forging and polishing of swords -was a wearisome work demanding much skill and practice. The tempering -of the edge was carefully done in the charcoal furnace, the softer -backs and sides being surrounded up to a certain point by fire clay, -so that only the edge remained outside. The cooling was in cold water. -Skilful sword cutlers gained for themselves high social position, and -won great glory and fame with their swords." - -It now survives only in collections of old weapons. An Imperial edict -forbade the carrying of swords, and in a few weeks the most costly arms -were a glut in the market. - - -DEMAND FOR RAZORS. - -It is noteworthy that the Japanese very rarely allow any hair to grow -upon the face, and the humblest peasant is regularly shaved by the -barber, "dry," and with a rude handleless razor. - -There is scope here. Indeed, a contract has just been concluded with -an English house in Japan, for the supply of a considerable quantity -of soft "German" steel, for the blocking out of razors, and I noticed -one considerable shop-keeper announcing himself as "manufacturer of all -kinds of European hardware." - - -LOCOMOTIVE AND OTHER ENGINES. - -16.--In locomotive engines Great Britain supplied Japan in 1890 with -474,000 dollars worth out of a total of 659,000 dollars, Germany -following with 81,000 dollars worth, and the United States with rather -more than half that sum. In other engines and boilers 253,000 dollars -worth came from England out of a total import of 345,000 dollars, while -of railway carriages the United Kingdom supplied 10,000_l._ worth, or -the whole save 600_l._ - - -ZINC. - -17.--In zinc, however, Germany took the lead with consignments -amounting to 141,000 dollars against 89,000 from Great Britain. As the -prosperity of the country advances the use of zinc, especially for -roofing purposes, is likely to increase. - - -WOOLLENS AND FLANNELS. - -18. While in woollen cloths England holds her own in Japan with -the supply of three-fifths of a gross import exceeding last year a -million dollars, she falls far behind in woollen yarns and flannels. -In the former Germany led in the proportion of 3-1/2 to 1, and in the -latter by a sale of 715,000 dollars worth out of 927,000 dollars, -and I understand that the representative of a well-known English -house recently found the trade much overrun and business exceedingly -difficult. - - -APPREHENDED DECLINE OF ENGLISH COTTON TRADE. - -19.--It is, however, the cotton trade of Lancashire which is likely -to feel a serious change ere long in its relations with Japan. Her -Majesty's commercial representatives have given warning of it for -some time, and shown not only the danger to be apprehended by English -operatives from the competition and cheap labour of India, but also -from the establishment of cotton spinning factories in Japan, and the -growing preference for the home made article. - -In 1885 there were only 62,000 Japanese spindles at work. Now there are -over 313,000 in 35 mills. Some have not done well owing to defective -management. But others are working day and night. The importation of -raw cotton has quadrupled in the last three years, while that of cotton -on the seeds has doubled. A million dollars worth of the most improved -British spinning machinery was laid down last year, and much attention -is being given to the cultivation of the cotton plant, although, owing -to the typhoons, with indifferent success. - -While British cotton velvets, satins, and handkerchiefs have not lost -ground, and grey shirtings, T cloths, and Italian cloths came almost -entirely from England, as also turkey reds and victoria lawns, the work -of the Japanese mills is evidenced by a decline in the importation of -cotton yarns by over three million dollars since 1888, of which two -million fell on Great Britain, and a diminution in the purchase of -foreign cotton drills by two-thirds. In shawls also there has been a -shrinkage. - - -A FRESH MARKET FOR LANCASHIRE. - -It is clear, therefore, that Manchester will have before long to a -great extent to replace her Japanese market, of which she had, until -lately, a monopoly. This may probably be done most advantageously and -effectively in the direction of United Empire trade. - - -PROPOSED INCREASE OF JAPANESE TARIFF. - -20.--Closely allied with this question is the almost certain increase -in a year or two of the Japanese tariff. The amount collected at the -present time by the Customs Bureau (whose returns are compiled with -much care and despatch) comes to about 5 per cent. _ad valorem_ (60 -cents per 100 catties or 133-1/3lbs. of steel, and 30 cents per 100 -catties of manufactured iron in rods, bars, etc., and 15 cents per 100 -catties of pig), and yielded last year 4,488,384 dollars, or nearly -double the customs revenue of 1881. - -It is highly probable that this rate will be doubled, or even increased -to 11 or 12 per cent. in accordance with the demand of national -manufacturers and operatives. - - -POWERLESSNESS OF HER MAJESTY'S GOVERNMENT. PARTIALITY OF THE JAPANESE -FOR THE ENGLISH. - -21.--Under present fiscal conditions in the United Kingdom Her -Majesty's Government is powerless to negotiate for a special -arrangement as regards England. Were we differently situated it is -not impossible that the Emperor's Government might be willing to -treat preferentially with Great Britain, not only by reason of the -preponderance of British interests in Japan and Japanese waters, but -also on account of the popular partiality throughout the empire for our -countrymen and their productions. This is evidenced in a thousand ways -in the national life of this most attractive people, and not least of -all by the adoption of English as the secondary official and commercial -language, to an extent so great as to render it ample for travel in all -but the remote districts. - - -A CLOSE ALLIANCE WITH JAPAN MOST DESIRABLE. - -22.--It is much to be desired that this feeling may receive all -possible encouragement. No question is likely to disturb the harmony -of Anglo-Japanese relations, and no alliance is calculated to be of -greater mutual advantage to both nations. - -FOOTNOTE: - -[Footnote 2: The figures are expressed in yen as being more accurate -than the taking of an arbitrary rate of exchange, when it is constantly -varying to the great inconvenience of commerce. A Japanese yen or -dollar fluctuates in value between 3_s._ 2_d._ to 3_s._ 4_d._ An -average of 6 dollars 20 cents. is usually obtained for the sovereign.] - - - - -"BRITISH INTERESTS IN CHINA." - -REPORT TO CENTRAL SHEFFIELD. - - -Having regard to the apprehension caused by the danger in which -foreigners in China have been lately placed, many of my constituents -desire to know the result of recent inquiries at Peking and elsewhere, -into the condition of affairs as affecting BRITISH TRADE AND INDUSTRIAL -EMPLOYMENT. I have the honour, therefore, to submit the following -report. - -The details have been collected partly from official sources and partly -from the views of authorities in various spheres who have favoured me -with opinions founded for the most part upon long personal experience. - - -EXTENT OF CHINESE EMPIRE. - -1.--It may be desirable, in the first place, to call to mind the area -and population of the Chinese Dominions, and the system of government. - -The Empire of China proper is about 1,500,000 square miles in extent, -or twelve and a half times the size of the United Kingdom; sevenfold -the area of France or of Germany; yet less than one-sixth the British -Empire. To this must be added the dependencies of Mongolia, Manchuria, -Thibet, &c., say 2,000,000 square miles. - - -POPULATION. - -2.--This vast and productive Empire, bordered upon the West and -South-West by the possessions of the British in India and Burmah, and -by Thibet; upon the North by Asiatic Russia, and upon the South-East by -French Indo-China, is estimated to contain about four hundred millions -of what an English authority has described as "the most cheerfully -industrious, orderly, and wealthy nation in Asia." - - -THE EMPEROR OF CHINA. - -3.--Over them despotically reigns, from the absolute seclusion enforced -by tradition of The Forbidden City at Peking, the youthful descendant -of The Conqueror who, two centuries and a half ago, placed for the -second time the Tartar sceptre over the Chinese, and assumed the style -of "The Son of Heaven." - -The Crown does not devolve by primogeniture, but by the posthumously -declared selection of the reigning Emperor among the male members of a -younger line of the Imperial House. - - -THE IMPERIAL GOVERNMENT. - -4.--The Central Government is regulated by an Inner Chamber, a Grand -Council, and the following six Ministries or Boards: (_a_) Civil -Office, (_b_) Revenue, (_c_) War, (_d_) Works, (_e_) Ceremonies, (_f_) -Punishments. Each Board is composed of Manchus (Tartars) and Chinese in -equal numbers, with two Presidents--a system excluding individual power -or responsibility. - -The executive orders go from the Throne, and are obtained, according -to ancient custom, on petitions presented by the Presidents of Boards -or Members of the Grand Council, upon their knees, at or before -sunrise,--the course of the Vermilion Pencil of the sovereign being, -it is said, much influenced by the Empress Dowager, who, during the -Imperial minority of seventeen years, skilfully administered the -Regency. - - -FOREIGN AFFAIRS. - -5.--The relations of China with Foreign Powers are conducted through -a special Board or office--the "Tsung-Li-Yamen,"--consisting of -eleven members of the Grand Council and six Chief Secretaries, a -considerable number of whom, with a large retinue of servants, receive, -round a sweetmeat-covered table, the official visits of diplomatic -representatives. This collective conduct of state business, added to -the difficulties of a language which, although monosyllabic, contains -over 20,000 characters, and the necessity of all communications passing -through interpreters (except in the case of the French Minister, -who speaks Chinese), much restrains and practically prohibits the -confidential and personal negotiations which, in other countries, so -much facilitate the satisfactory conclusion of public affairs. - - -PROVINCIAL ADMINISTRATION. - -6.--For purposes of provincial administration, China is divided into -several Viceroyalties, each invested with a large amount of sovereign -power, including taxation, internal order and defence. It is subject, -however, to many ingenious checks. In the first place, a Tartar General -is attached to each Viceroy, in a semi-independent position, and his -assent to many administrative matters is essential. Secondly, there is -a rule against the appointment of a Chinese Viceroy over any province -or provinces whereof he is a native. There is also the vigilance of -a Board of Censors, established 160 years B.C., and theoretically -consisting "of the most enlightened, righteous, and firm persons," -whose duty it is to warn the Emperor direct of anything done to the -public detriment, not excepting even Imperial laches; for the Chinese -maxim runs--"To violate the law is the same crime in the Emperor as in -a subject." - -There are, within the Viceroyalties, 18 provinces, over each of -which is an Imperially-appointed Governor, a Treasurer, a Judge -and Comptrollers of the Salt Monopoly and the Grain Tribute. Every -province is again subdivided into prefectures, departments, districts, -and townships under small Mandarins, and into village communes under -Headmen. - -The territories of Mongolia and Manchuria are administered martially; -in Thibet and Corea there are "Residents" representing the Chinese -Suzerain. - - -THE MANDARINATE. - -7.--The Mandarinate is not hereditary, save in the case of a few -princely families, largely debarred from public life, and the still -surviving house of Confucius, which was elevated to a Dukedom, 1500 -years after the death of its founder, in 479 B.C. - - -PUBLIC OFFICES. - -Public Offices are filled by nominated Mandarins of various grades. -They obtain their posts partly by proficiency in successive urban, -provincial, metropolitan, and palace open competitive examinations in -Chinese classical lore, and partly by purchase or judicious bribery. - -The former literary tests were established twelve centuries ago, and -at least 1100 years before merit or study had much place in European -patronage. - -The brilliant graduate of humble origin rarely lacks, moreover, the -pecuniary support necessary for the prosecution of his studies, or for -official recognition of his examination laurels. Localities, banks, -and capitalists are usually ready to stand behind a man of promise, as -an investment, to be liberally recouped by ulterior "squeeze,"--on his -attaining place,--smally paid in itself, however exalted, but prolific -in indirect sources of enrichment. - - -INFLUENCE OF THE LITERATI. - -8.--Nothing is declared to press so heavily upon the social, political, -and national progress of China, as the adverse influence of the -"educated" classes. So it was even in the time of the great monarch -who, 200 years before Christ, consolidated the Chinese Empire, and -built the still-enduring Great Wall, in hopes of thereby defeating -Tartar incursions. To overcome the opposition of the Literati, he -ordered all their books to be destroyed. But the fact remains that the -vigorous heads among the people, who, in other lands, have had to carve -their forward path, by agitation and revolution, through the barriers -of social rank, caste, and the privileges of wealth, have had for ages -in China an open avenue to advancement. - -Thus it is that the student tendency, instead of being, as in every -other part of the world, in the direction of reform, is applied to the -most absolute maintenance of the present system, and to the rejection -alike of the methods and appliances of the Western world. - - -STUDENTS SENT TO EUROPE. - -9.--It is true that a few youths have, from time to time, been sent -to Europe and America, but their studies have been either cut short, -or the palace circle has succeeded in relegating them, on return, to -distant posts. Some also have gone back, not imbued, like the Japanese, -with ardent enthusiasm for reforms, but apparently more embittered than -ever against the foreigner.[3] How little influence they have had, -and how little is really known of the West, may be illustrated by the -belief said to have been expressed by a provincial functionary in high -office, that foreigners came to China, from the barren rock of Europe, -to obtain "rice" as a means of subsistence; and to the opinion of -another, that we owed scientific progress, not to our own discoveries, -but to having obtained a copy of the ancient Chinese classics, saved -from the above-mentioned Imperial destruction. - - -NATIONAL RESULT. - -10.--The national result is that, although recent events have hastened -forward the completion of a telegraph system, there is throughout the -Chinese Empire but one short railway, no proper road communication, and -defective attention to the unrivalled waterways, no uniform system of -taxation, no reliable administration of justice, no Chinese currency -(other than brass cash), no postal system, and little regard for the -public health and welfare; yet, wherewithal, there is great respect for -private property and the due transmission of the small holdings into -which the land is divided. - - -PROSPECT OF REFORM. - -11.--That a people sometimes accounted "the active race of mankind"; -as keen and reliable in business as any in the universe; the reputed -first inventors of the mariner's compass, of gunpowder, of ink, -printing, and paper (which have contributed so much to England's -greatness), should be content with such a condition of things may -well pass belief. Ambassadors have of late been sent to Europe, -Diplomatists, consuls, traders, and missionaries have endeavoured -to show the light. The example of Japan is at hand. Yet no man can -say, upon any foundation of actual fact, that a change is probable or -imminent. - -It is true that fully two millions of industrious Chinese emigrants -can testify to their speedy acquirement of comparative wealth under -happier conditions, despite laws of exclusion in America. The majority -are said, however, to return quietly home and settle down (awaiting -interment in one of the family burial places which cover the surface -of the country and much prevent the sale of land) to that worship of -ancestors, filial obedience, and veneration for authority, which are -quoted with pride as contrasting favourably "with a society where each -generation despises the one which immediately preceded it, and strains -after the future without respect to the past." - - -WANT OF LEADERS. - -12.--There is also an undoubted want of men willing to champion, or -capable of leading, a party of reform. - -The two most conspicuous statesmen in the Empire--and, indeed, the only -ones--are the Viceroy of the Metropolitan Province of Chilhi, and the -Viceroy of Hupeh. - -The former is His Excellency Li Hung Chang, who, for 40 years, has -possessed a great and beneficial influence. To the viceregal functions -are united those of Grand Secretary of the Empire and Commissioner for -Northern Trade, in which capacity His Excellency is consulted on all -foreign and naval matters. He has the forts on the Peiho in good order, -the troops well trained and armed--not with matchlocks or bows and -arrows, as in other viceroyalties, but with modern weapons, replenished -from arsenals at Tientsin, under foreign direction. A railway[4] runs, -moreover, under English management, to the Gulf of Pechilhi, and -its extension to within 14 miles of Peking was once authorized, but -subsequently disallowed. - -Unfortunately, Li Hung Chang, who has given not a few proofs of his -good-will and preference for England, is over 70 years of age, and -his brother, the Viceroy of Canton, who also vainly seeks to build a -railway to Kowloon, opposite Hong Kong, is still older. - -His Excellency Chang Chili Tung, Viceroy of Hupeh and Houan, is a -different stamp of man, in the prime of life, and energetic. But the -regeneration of the Chinese must be, he contends, by the Chinese, and -not by foreigners. To carry out his project of a railway from Hankow -to Peking, he was transferred from a superior viceroyalty, and to -this end an iron foundry has been established at Hanvang. The rails -and the plant are all, however, to be of Chinese make, so that the -commencement, not to say the opening of the line, is still in the Greek -Kalends. - - -SECRET SOCIETIES. - -13.--The influence of secret societies is also prejudicial to reform. -They exist in every province, but their objects are often merely local -and devoid of revolutionary aims. Their existence has, however, been -put forward upon more than one occasion in extenuation of popular -excesses. - -Some, moreover, like the "Kolao Hui," or Association of Elder Brethren, -mainly formed of disbanded soldiers eager for employment, have spread -widely, and could bring about serious trouble. Others, like the "Broken -Coffin Society," so well repressed by the British among the vast -Chinese population of the Straits Settlements, have predatory aims. - -It is not, however, thought that the overthrow of the system of -government, or of a dynasty, which has exterminated its rival, is held -in serious contemplation, except by extremists, who may, however, get -the upper hand. Very summary proceedings and execution tend to damp the -enthusiasm of active agitation. Moreover, the difficulty the Southern -Provinces, speaking Cantonese, or the Centre and Western Districts, -speaking other dialects, have in making themselves understood by -Northerners, speaking Mandarin, or the official language,[5] coupled -with the practical absence of a press (besides the Official Gazette), -restrains revolutionary propaganda by means more effectual than police -edicts. - - -INTERCOURSE WITH FOREIGN NATIONS. - -14.--At the same time the intercourse of China with the outer world -has undergone frequent change, and especially during the present -generation. The leading incentor to French activity in the Far East, -says--"Yesterday Chinese trade did not exist for Europe, but to-day it -puts thousands of arms in motion in England, and amounts to millions." - -This is literally true. The Dutch and the Portuguese were before us. -Even as early as A.D. 971, a superintendent was appointed at Ningpo to -overlook foreign trade, and before that, there was such a functionary -stationed at Canton. Until the latter part of the last century the -British flag had hardly appeared. But now we have outstripped the -competition of the whole of the world. - -Fifty years ago England sent to China barely half a million worth of -goods. The first war Her Majesty was obliged to wage in the interests -of British trade, brought about the opening of new ports, and in -1844 the English exports to the China Sea exceeded £2,300,000. Then -were forced upon us the operations of 1857-58, and the war of 1860, -resulting in the Treaty of Peking. Within the next decade British -commerce rose to £9,000,000 a year. Now it is half as much again. -Apart, then, from the indemnity, and the anterior cession of Hong Kong, -become one of the greatest, as well as most beautiful, ports in the -world, the cost of the operations has been defrayed many times over in -increased wages to British artisans. - - -BENEFIT TO CHINA. - -15.--Nor has the advantage been one-sided. The gain to China has -been even greater. The value of the Chinese foreign trade for 1890 -is given by Sir Robert Hart, the Inspector-General of the imperial -Maritime Customs (an Englishman whose eminent services to China receive -universal recognition), at 214 million Haikwan taels (the average value -of which, for last year, was 5_s._ 2-1/4_d._), say, in round numbers, -£53,000,000, or double the total of a few years age, while in the last -decennial period the imports have increased by 48 million taels, and -the exports by 9 millions. - - -TREATY PORTS. - -16.--Under various treaties, mainly negotiated by England, twenty-one -ports and places have been opened for foreign trade and residence, of -which five are on the River Yangtze, penetrating over a thousand miles -into the heart of the interior. Two other places were added in 1889, -under agreement with France. - -At most treaty ports a portion of the urban area has been assigned -to the foreign community, who are left free to provide for its -regulations--a duty which is usually discharged by the help of tolls on -shipping and house rates, as to roads, lighting, public conveyances, -and buildings, in a manner which sets the most successful example of -municipal work to the neighbouring native administration. - - -DUTY UPON FOREIGN GOODS. - -17.--An import and an export duty, each averaging 5 per cent. _ad -valorem_, is levied upon goods conveyed in foreign vessels, which are, -upon the other hand, exempted from the "Likin" or war tax, and freely -granted transit passes, clearing them from the prefectural tolls, which -do not a little to embarrass the native trader in the interior. - -The duty upon foreign goods is collected by the Imperial Maritime -Customs--a splendid service, employing 700 Europeans and 4000 Chinese. -It yielded, in 1890, a revenue of 22 million taels (say £5,500,000) to -the Chinese Government, or a third more than ten years ago, and further -supervises the lighting and buoying of the coast. - - -DUTY UPON NATIVE GOODS. - -18.--The import and the export duty upon goods conveyed in Chinese -junks is levied by the Chinese Customs Service; and it is said that -many shipments are so made to escape the vigilance and the higher -taxation of the European Administration, and are subsequently -transferred to foreign bottoms at Hong Kong or elsewhere. - - -BRITISH SHARE OF FOREIGN TRADE. - -19.--Three-fourths of the entire foreign trade of China fell, last -year, to the share of the British Empire, or more, by three million -taels, than that done by the entire Continent of Europe and the United -States of America. The trade with the United Kingdom, including that -passing through Hong Kong, exceeded £15,000,000. - -The Commissioners of Customs at Tientsin, Newchwang, Ningpo, and other -treaty ports, all speak of "the increased demand for British goods," in -spite of much distress last year, owing to floods in many places; and -while Shanghai reports that "German figures fall off decidedly," the -Commissioner at Kinkiang states that "the British and Chinese had all -the trade to themselves." - - -BRITISH SHIPPING IN CHINESE WATERS. - -20.--This fortunate state of affairs is strikingly illustrated by the -British shipping in Chinese waters. The red ensign of England, which -appeared on the first steamer in the Yellow Sea, in 1830, floated -in 1890 upon 16,897 of the 20,530 foreign vessels which entered and -cleared at Chinese ports, while the British tonnage amounted to 8/9ths -of the whole. - -Our next competitors were the Germans, with whom we have so much in -common, and who are sparing no effort to develop their China trade. -They entered and cleared 2140 vessels last year, or 622 fewer than in -1888, with a diminution of 227,000 tons burthen. - -A good proportion of the coast-carrying trade was also done by -British-built steamers, carrying the dragon flag, and wholly owned by -Chinese merchants. But, with very few exceptions, insurance companies -and underwriters insist upon such vessels being commanded and officered -by British or Americans. Besides this, the majority of the pilots on -the Peiho and other rivers are British, a state of affairs pointing to -the necessity of nothing being omitted by the Board of Trade to afford -every possible facility to the merchant marine to acquire the technical -knowledge necessary to maintain this world-wide reputation of the -English for superior nautical skill. - - -PREPONDERANCE OF BRITISH INTERESTS. - -21.--These facts show the enormous preponderance of British interests -in China,--a condition of things existing also in Japan,--not only over -those of the whole world, but especially as regards those of France, -Germany, Russia, or any other European power. - -They are corroborated by the establishment in China of 327 British -firms, or double the number of the mercantile houses of every other -nation, and by the residence at the treaty ports of over 3300 British -subjects, out of a total foreign population of about 8000. - -Germany comes next with 80 firms and 640 residents; following her, -America, with 32 firms; and then France, with 19 firms and 590 persons. - - -REPRESENTATION OF THE BRITISH PEOPLE. - -22.--Under such circumstances the British public cannot be otherwise -than glad that Her Majesty the Queen is fitly represented at Peking -by what is not unfrequently described in the vernacular as "The Great -English Legation." - -The consular service of Britain in China is also manned by some -three-score officers, each one of whom is an accomplished Chinese -scholar, a large majority having passed through the arduous Student -Interpreter Course, which is ready to fill junior vacancies, as they -occur, with young men evidently as well selected as they are carefully -trained. - - -DIPLOMATIC AND CONSULAR ASSISTANCE TO BRITISH TRADES. - -23.--At the same time it would be idle to deny that, in spite of -recent improvements, British traders generally complain in China, -as elsewhere, of the lack of diplomatic and consular assistance in -the advancement of English trade, and the apparently little official -interest shown therein. - -The French have a like grievance, and the work of German -representatives for their nationals is often cited with envy. It is -said, though probably with exaggerated truth, that German Ministers and -Consuls are unflagging in their efforts to advance German commercial -interests, to show that German traders have government recognition and -approval, and that the employment of Germans, instead of English or -French, is much appreciated by the Emperor William. - -It is possible that the out-of-date view that diplomatic and -consular officers are purely political agents may be excessively -retained in some instances, and that the assistance rendered by Her -Majesty's Consuls to British trade might advantageously receive more -encouragement and departmental recognition. - -There can be no doubt, however, of the difficulty which would ensue -by consular espousal of the interests of a particular firm to the -inevitable prejudice of a rival house. - -Nor is the prestige small or unimportant which Her Majesty's service -derives from the fact that any expressions of opinion, or any advice -tendered, are known to be wholly free from any interested motives. - - -IRON AND STEEL TRADE IN CHINA. - -24.--In examining the position in China of particular industries, -attention must first be directed to the iron, steel, and hardware trade. - -The standard work (Williams' "Middle Kingdom") says:--"Handicraftsmen -of every name are content with coarse-looking tools compared with -those turned out at Sheffield; but the work produced by some of them -is far from contemptible. The bench of the carpenter is a low, narrow, -inclined frame, on which he sits to plane, groove, and work his boards, -using his feet and toes to steady them. His augers, bits, and gimlets -are worked with a bow; but most of the edge-tools employed by him and -the blacksmith are similar in shape, but less convenient than our own. -They are sharpened with bows, on grindstones, and also with a cold -steel like a spokeshave, with which the edge is scraped thin. - -"Steel is everywhere manufactured in a rude way, but the foreign -importation is gradually supplying a better article." - - -IMPORTATION OF METALS. - -25.--This is illustrated by the importation, in 1890, of 242,000 taels -(60,500_l._) worth of steel, besides 800,000 taels worth of iron -sheets, plates, bars, hoops, nail rod, pig and old iron, and 500,000 -taels worth of copper bars, nails, wire, &c.,--a purchase exceeding -400,000_l._,--the greater part of which was from the United Kingdom. - -The Statistical Secretary of the Imperial Maritime Customs states -that "iron of all kinds maintained, in 1890, a steady consumption of -1,100,000 piculs (each picul equals 133-1/2 lbs.), and steel rose from -39,000 to 56,000 piculs,--an increase of 43 per cent.,--although it is -noticeable that the import is very variable from year to year." - -The Commissioner at Newchwang states that "importations of metals -advanced to the enormous extent of 113 per cent. over 1889--the most -conspicuous being nail rod;" while his colleague at Tientsin speaks of -"the increasing demand for manufactured iron nails, which are cheaper -and better than those made by native blacksmiths;" and Chin-kiang -states, from the Central Provinces--"For iron of all kinds, 1890 totals -have not been equalled." - - -SHEFFIELD ENTERPRISE. - -26.--The enterprise of Sheffield has not been behindhand. In 1843, -after the Northern ports had been opened, a _Times_ correspondent -reported "that an eminent Sheffield firm sent out a large consignment -of knives and forks, and declared themselves prepared to supply all -China with cutlery. The Chinamen, who knew not the use of knives and -forks (or, as they say, abandoned the use of them when they became -civilized), but toss the rice into their mouths with chopsticks, would -not look at these best balanced knives. They were sold at prices which -scarcely realized their freight, and shops were for years afterwards -adorned with them, formed into devices, like guns in an armoury." - -A somewhat similar fate has attended the efforts of another prominent, -but younger firm, whose dust-covered sample cards were shown me in -Shanghai. - -Although in 1885 Germany sent a considerable quantity of cutlery to -Tientsin, Chefoo, and elsewhere, Sheffield evidently meets the demand -of foreign residents as regards table articles, for some of our leading -names are present at every meal. - - -DEMAND FOR RAZORS. - -27.--The demand for razors is, however, enormous. It is stated that, -having regard to the artificially caused excess of the male population, -some 180 or 200 millions of men have their heads and faces "painfully" -shaved once a week by a razor of the rude specimen I am sending, -with others, to the Cutlers' Hall, and which cost about 5 cents, or -2-1/2_d._ Three-quarters of a Chinaman's head is always kept closely -shaved, and custom prohibits either whiskers or beards, and even -moustaches, unless before then a grandfather! - -At Canton, a well-known Hallamshire trade-mark is reported as selling -freely on razors at 20 cents. But in other places, more removed from -British example, I was assured that it is quite hopeless to induce -Chinese barbers to adopt the Sheffield shapes, unless they wish to -empty their crowded shops. For the Sheffield-made _Chinese pattern_, -however, a vast demand might possibly be brought about by careful -agents, if only it can be done at the low price the Chinese are willing -to pay. - - -DEMAND FOR LARGE FORGINGS. - -28.--There is already a considerable request for large forgings, and -the arsenals under the control of Englishmen are steadfast believers in -the undoubted superiority of English manufacture. But all agree that it -is nothing compared to what will come when China really begins to go -ahead, and to open up for her people the vast wealth of the Empire. The -representatives of Messrs. Krupp and of M. Creuzot are very vigilant, -active, and skilful. - - -ADOPTION OF METRICAL MEASUREMENT. - -29.--In connection with this matter, it is important to mention that -a recommendation is about to go forward from a high authority, to -whom attention is paid, that China should adopt, as Japan has already -done, the metrical system of measurement of France and Germany. Unless -this is fully realized, there may be a loss of valuable business, for -although there are measures which render feet and inches in mètres and -millimètres with the utmost nicety, foreigners contend that there is -sometimes an inevitable plus or minus, which upsets calculations. - - -WANT OF UNIFORM MONETARY STANDARD. - -30.--In the same direction, too, it may not be amiss to give expression -to the general mercantile complaint of the absence of a uniform and -international decimal monetary system. Not only are many firms ruined -by unexpected and often unaccountable fluctuations of exchange between -the 29 principal currencies of the world, but the clerical labour -involved, not to speak of constant misunderstandings, is stated to be -most prejudicial. - -This can be appreciated when it is considered that trade in the -East is conducted in rupees, piastres, Mexican and American dollars, -Japanese yen, silver shoes, shapes, and bars; Haikwan, Shanghai, and -Tientsin taels--the latter unrepresented by coins or notes, and all -varying in value from day to day. The Shanghai tael, for instance, -which was worth 4_s._ 3-1/8_d._, on February 28th, 1890, rose to 5_s._ -3-1/8_d._, by September 5th,--a difference of 23 per cent.,--and fell -back again 13 per cent. in the next two months. The rupee, too, worth -2_s._ at par, was at a discount of eightpence in 1889, but early in -1890 all but touched 1_s._ 9_d._, until, in November, it fell to 1_s._ -5-1/2_d._--each penny of fall occasioning not only great loss to -individuals, but it is calculated many thousand lacs of rupees to the -Indian Government. - -It is difficult to say which decimal system has the most -advocates,--probably dollars and cents,--but all agree that pounds, -shillings and pence, and English coins on which the value is not -stated, entail more trouble than any standard. - - -COTTON GOODS. - -31.--The vast present and the enormous future interest Lancashire has -in China, as also the British capitalist in India, is shown by the -Imperial customs report for 1890. It runs thus:--"Cotton goods bounded -upwards in value from 36 million taels in 1889, to 45 millions (say -11,000,000_l._) in 1890--an increase of 25 per cent. Cotton goods -of nearly every texture were infected with the general contagion of -increase, and expanding in quantity and value, while cotton yarn, and -more particularly that from India, poured into China in a higher ratio -of increase than ever heretofore, having risen from 108,000 piculs in -1878, to over a million piculs in 1890, representing 19-1/3 millions -of taels (say nearly 5,000,000_l._), or 50 per cent. more than in the -previous year." - -It is not necessary to add anything to this authoritative statement, -unless it be that the French efforts to force their "cotonnade" -upon the Annamites, by prohibitory duties upon all foreign goods in -Indo-China, are unavailing, and that the prospect before Manchester is -unlimited so soon as the South-West of China is opened from Burmah. It -is tempered only by the establishment of mills to turn Chinese-grown -cotton into yarn. - - -WOLLENS. - -32.--In woollen goods there was, in 1890, an importation of 3-1/2 -million taels worth--a slight falling off compared with the previous -year, mainly in English camlets and lastings. - - -EXPORT OF SILK. - -33.--Nothing, perhaps, more eloquently exhibits the importance of -China as a commercial factor in the world, and the necessity of foreign -trade to her people, than the silk industry, which employs many tens -of thousands of persons. Fifty years ago not a bale was exported, at -least to England; but last year over 30-1/4 million taels' worth were -sent abroad. Even that large quantity showed a falling away, owing to -transient circumstances, of 16 per cent. over the previous year. - - -THE TEA TRADE. - -34.--The staple export of China, and the one with which the Celestial -Empire is most closely identified in the popular mind, is, of course, -her tea. - -In 1670, eighty pounds of China tea were exported into England, and, -despite export duties, varying in China and in the United Kingdom from -400 per cent. on the productive cost to 100 per cent. at the present -time, the trade increased to 108 million pounds in 1880. - - -INDIA TEA. - -35.--Since then there has, however, been a serious decline, increasing -so much, from year to year, as to jeopardize the entire industry. -This is declared to be mainly owing to the fortuitous development of -tea-planting in India and Ceylon, and to the preference shown by the -English consumer for tea of British growth. - -Twelve months after the Queen's accession, 400 lbs. of Indian tea were -sent to England as an experiment. In 1890 the consignment was over -100,000,000 lbs., and Ceylon sent nearly half as much. The effect has -been that, while, in 1865, out of every 100 lbs. of tea sold in England -97 lbs. were Chinese and only 3 lbs. Indian, in 1890 the Chinese -proportion had fallen by about 50 per cent., and the cost to the -British tea drinker was also in like degree reduced. - -One reason put forward by the experts, consulted by the Maritime -Customs, is that "a good stout tea, that will stand several waterings, -is what suits the mass of English consumers, and this India provides -much better than China." The English merchants at Shanghai and Foochow -affirm, however, that this greater strength is purchased by the -retention of deleterious properties. - - -APATHY OF THE CHINESE. - -36.--It is in vain that the attention of Chinese cultivators has been -called to the condition of the tea industry by all concerned. Moreover, -four years ago, the Inspector-General of Customs thus addressed the -Imperial authorities:-- - -"To a government, its people's industries must be of higher importance -than revenue. I would, therefore, advise that taxes be remitted, in -order that industries may be preserved. Think for the people, and -forego revenue. Export duties ought to be light, in order that the -surplus production of a people may go for sale elsewhere. Import -duties, on the contrary, are the duties which ought to be retained; -but the use to be made of each commodity ought to be well weighed. If -it is something people cannot do without, it ought to be exempt from -duty; but if it is a luxury, it ought to be heavily taxed. On the right -application of these principles depend the nation's wealth, and the -people's too." - -Nothing whatever has been done. From Foochow the export has declined -by one-half in ten years, and deprived the revenue of a million taels -a year, and the people of five million taels in wages. The opinion is -indeed general "that the gradual extinction of the China tea trade -is practically assured, unless something retards Indian and Ceylon -production, or drastic measures are adopted." - -The "Shanli," or hill tax; the "Likin," or war tax, and the export -duty, are all maintained intact, and the unfortunate Chinese growers -have to compete with the untaxed tea of India and Ceylon. What distress -is likely soon to ensue may be gathered from the fact that the -production of one-half only of the output of the Assam Company, with -its few hundred employés, affords the main sustenance of 4500 Chinese -families, or, say, about 20,000 persons. They are themselves, moreover, -so apprehensive that the introduction of the machinery in vogue in -India and Ceylon will diminish employment that the Government has not -felt itself strong enough to protect its use. - - -FOREIGN OPIUM TRAFFIC. - -37.--The opium question excites much interest in England. Some -philanthropists have feared that the revenue of over 5,000,000_l._ -a year, derived by the Indian Government from the licensed and -carefully-restricted cultivation of the raw material of the valuable -drug, is in major degree responsible for the reported influence upon -the Chinese of opium smoking. They may be somewhat reassured by the -result of a careful European inquiry, officially instituted throughout -the Empire. It shows that imported opium is only smoked by the -affluent, the luxurious, and well-to-do, or, at most, by one-third of -one per cent. of the population; that is, by about three per thousand. - -The annual importation used to amount to an average of 100,000 chests, -yielding, for smoking, about 4000 tons of boiled opium. They cost the -consumers upwards of 17,000,000_l._, of which 3,000,000_l._ went to -the Chinese revenue. But it is a rapidly declining element in Chinese -finances, and the deficit may, before long, have to be made up by -increasing the duties upon other imports. - - -NATIVE OPIUM. - -38.--Native opium was known, produced, and used in China long before -any Europeans began the sale of the foreign drug. The records of the -10th century prove this; and opium figures as an item in the tariff -of 1589, and again in a customs list of the 17th century. Hundreds -of square miles are devoted to the cultivation of the poppy, which, -according to the late Dr. Williams, "is now grown in every province, -without any real restraint being anywhere put on it." Native opium -sells for half the price of the foreign article, and its smokers are -consequently more numerous among the people and younger practitioners -(_i.e._, those from 25 to 35 years of age). It is, in short, say the -latest reports, "forcing foreign opium out of consumption with triple -energy." - - -NUMBER OF OPIUM SMOKERS. - -39.--The best authorities concur that the whole of the smokers, of -either foreign or native opium, do not exceed two-thirds of one per -cent. of the population, or adding a margin, say, seven per thousand -(Replies to Circular No. 64, Second Series, Inspectorate General of -Customs)--a state of affairs which is corroborated from the great -town of Tientsin, with its million of inhabitants. The Commissioner -of Customs reports "that but little opium is consumed, owing to the -growing influence of Abstention Societies, the 40,000 members of which -neither smoke the drug or tobacco, nor drink liquors of any kind." - - -EFFECT OF OPIUM-SMOKING. - -40.--The effect of opium-smoking, injurious and wasting of vital power -though it may be, is certainly not apparent to the ordinary traveller; -and the American clergyman, whose work on China, founded on the -experience of a life-time, aided by keenest judgment, has been adopted -by every foreign legation as the Text Book for aspiring Consuls, thus -records his opinion:-- - -"A dose of opium does not produce the intoxication of ardent spirits, -and, so far as the peace of the community and his family are concerned, -the smoker is less troublesome than the drunkard. The former never -throws the chairs and tables about the room, or drives his wife out of -doors in his furious rage; he never goes reeling through the streets -or takes lodgings in the gutter, but, contrariwise, he is quiet and -pleasant, and fretful only when the effects of the pipe are gone." - - -MISSIONARY WORK IN CHINA. - -41.--The missionary work of endeavouring to reclaim China from the -faith which was first introduced 65 years before Christ, and whereof -the leading principles are stated as the worship of ancestors and of -sky and earth, has become, during the last 30 years, of political as -well as of religious importance, for it constantly gives rise, and has -done so very lately, to serious international difficulties. - -Although there are many who regard the missionaries as doing valuable -secular service in accustoming the native population in remote -districts to the sight of European faces, and in prompting inquiry as -to the source of their evenly balanced and steady lives, constituting -them thus as pioneers of trade, it is undoubted that the great majority -of foreign residents are openly sceptical as to the fertility of the -missionary field. They are especially apprehensive of the effect when -the ground is tilled by fragile mothers and young ladies in the teeth -of deep and apparently ineradicable prejudice against the public work -of women, and particularly in conjunction with the opposite sex, for -as an incendiary proclamation, calling on Wuhu "to chase out all the -barbarian thieves," ran, "This breach of morality and custom is in -itself a violation of the fixed laws of the State." - - -ROMAN CATHOLIC MISSIONARIES. - -42.--The first missionary labourers were the Italian Jesuits. They -came to China three centuries ago, and by toleration some of the least -objectionable tenets of Buddhism, and a malicious employment of their -European learning, obtained such imperial favour as to be put at -the head of the Astronomical Board, and to be employed to build the -celebrated summer palace. There seemed, indeed, every possibility, -at one time, of the wholesale conversion of the Chinese to the Roman -Catholic Church, termed by the Emperor, K'anghi, "the Sect of the Lord -of the Sky." But then came Christian dissension, and following it soon, -as in Japan, their persecution, slaughter, and expulsion. - -Now the Church of Rome is stated to have, in China, 60 Bishops or -Vicars Apostolic, some 600 European Priests (of whom 65 per cent. -are French), and about 400 Chinese clergy. It claims, also, close -upon 700,000 adherents (in Japan the proportion is one in every 905 -persons)--a calculation which should, however, be read probably in -conjunction with the officially published fact, that of 13,684 baptisms -in the metropolitan diocese between August 15th, 1891, and August 14th, -1891, 11,583 were "_baptismi puerorum infidelium in articulo mortis_." - -At the same time recognition should be given to the general respect -entertained by foreigners of opposing Christian creeds for the -life-long devotion to their task, on the slenderest stipend, of the -Roman priesthood. Their success as to numbers is also said to be -much aided by their care of the mundane interests of the converted, -who, loath to continue subscribing to family memorial halls for -communication with ancestors, and to extravagant funeral rites, if not -also to that support of aged parents which is obligatory on Chinese -Buddhists, are shunned by their kindred, and often find private -employment, even in foreign families, as impossible to obtain as a -public office. - - -PROTESTANT MISSIONS. - -43.--Nor have the Protestant Churches, although later in the field, -been backward in sending out representatives. A considerable proportion -of the _thirteen hundred thousand_ pounds, which is on an average -annually subscribed in the United Kingdom for the support of Foreign -Missions, goes from "Darkest England" to China. The United States are -even more liberal, and school buildings have been erected by Americans, -on an extensive scale, in many places. - -Forty-one Protestant Societies were represented in 1890, by 589 men, -391 wives, and 316 single ladies,--a total of 1296 persons, of whom -724 were British, 513 American, and 59 Continental,--assisted by 1660 -natives. These numbers may now be slightly larger. - -As regards persuasions, 7 per cent. of the Protestant Missions belong -to the Church of England, 20 per cent. are Presbyterian, 14 per cent. -Methodist, 12 per cent. Congregational, 9 per cent. Baptist, and the -larger number, or 38 per cent., unclassified. - -There are upwards of 550 Protestant Churches, distributing, in 1889, -700,000 Bibles and 1,200,000 tracts, and over 60 hospitals and 50 -dispensaries. - -The result of the work since 1842, reported to the Protestant -Conference, held in 1890, was, in round numbers, 37,300 communicants -(of whom over two-thirds are stated to be Nonconformists), or about -one in ten thousand of the population; 19,800 pupils; while 348,000 -persons were returned as having received medical aid, or at least to -have visited a missionary dispensary--a work which is acknowledged by -all to be of the utmost value, to be of real national benefit, and -to be appreciated by the people. It is much encouraged by the Rev. -Hudson Taylor, himself a surgeon and native of Barnsley, who from -Shanghai directs, with great tact, the undenominational China Inland -Mission, the members of which adopt, like the Roman Catholics, the -Chinese costume, and, like them, are smally remunerated, the expenses -of the Mission, exceeding £38,000 a year, being met by unsolicited -contributions. - - -THE RECENT DISTURBANCES. - -44.--The disturbances on the Yangtze in 1891, like those at Tientsin -in 1870, had for ostensible cause the fixed popular suspicion that -the succour of foundlings by the Roman Catholic sisterhoods is for -nefarious medicinal purposes. Many of the female children, purposely -exposed to die, are necessarily, as indeed in Europe, in a moribund -condition when brought in, and the mortality is very high. This is -confirmed by the baptismal figures above quoted. The freedom of access, -anywhere and to anybody, which is inseparable from Chinese life, and is -tolerated, however disagreeable, by the most experienced missionaries, -has also sometimes been attended, it is alleged, with difficulty, -especially from native converts, and irritation has resulted. - -The facts disclosed in the British Parliamentary Paper (C. 6431) -appear to be that, on May 9th, 1891, two Chinese nuns were visiting a -sick family at Wuhsueh, on the river Yangtze. As the disease of the -parents was infectious, they removed the children. On the way to the -Mission they met a relation, who demanded their restoration. This being -refused, the nuns were taken before a magistrate, who, however, on the -requisition of the fathers, immediately released them. - -This excited much popular agitation, and three days afterwards, -a woman came to the Mission to claim a child alleged to have died -therein. As she was accompanied by a small crowd, which assembles in -the narrow teeming streets of China on the slightest pretext, admission -was _apparently_ refused. Then commenced the work of destruction, -costing two Englishmen, who gallantly went from some distance to -render help, their lives, and imperilling many others, not only in the -locality itself, but, later on, elsewhere on the river. Much foreign -property was destroyed, and a very serious state of affairs seemed -likely to supervene, for, as _The Times_ recently wrote, and experience -has often shown, "Native feelings of hostility, once roused against -the white man and whetted by the intoxication of success, cannot be -expected to take account of an imaginary dividing line between two -spheres." - - -ANTI-FOREIGN FEELING. - -45.--In attributing the outbreak to Chinese hatred of the foreigner, -two observations appear in this instance to claim consideration. The -first is by Mr. Consul Gardner, in his despatch of June 9:-- - -"The mob was composed of many hostile from mere ignorance, many -from the force of contagion, some from fear of others, a few really -friendly, who, like the soldiers, led a lady to a place of safety under -pretence of robbing her of a ring, and others who sheltered them from -blows, while very few deliberately meant mischief." - -The other is by the Rev. David Hill, a Wesleyan missionary of much -experience, who was officially employed to inquire into the facts. -Under date June 12th. 1891, he writes:-- - -"One thing which the sight of the house impressed on me was the -evidence which it gave of the hold on the people's mind which the -rumours as to the destruction of infant life have gained. On the upper -story, the ceiling had been inspected by means of a ladder, which -evidently had been brought up for the purpose. On the ground floor the -boards of one of the rooms had been fired, and a large aperture made. -Below the ground floor the ventilators outside had been torn open, as -though search had been made for missing infants, and, of course, the -lath and plaster walls in all the rooms where they might be found were -pierced." - -This latter view is confirmed by the Rev. Father de Quellec, who, -writing in the _Missions Catholiques_, describes how, at another place, -on the night of May 23rd, a dead child, from whom the eyes had been -removed, was placed on vacant land near the Mission. A crowd assembling -next morning, cried out, "It is the European devil who has torn out the -eyes and heart of this child!" The house was stormed, but fortunately -a magistrate arrived with troops more under command than is usual in -China, and the mob was dispersed. "But," adds the Father, "eight out of -ten believe that we take out the eyes and store them in the cellars of -the Mission." - -It is contended that, under such antagonistic circumstances, rescue -work should be guided by the greatest care, for otherwise its use, -to the prejudice of both missionary efforts and European trade, -by reactionaries, is _inevitable_. Their sinister influence, once -asserted, may at any moment call into fatally destructive play, as -indeed recently, the anti-foreign feeling entertained by a large -proportion of the Chinese. - -That this anti-foreign feeling exists all agree. It is urged that it -must never be forgotten--for what renders it especially serious in -China, is the frequent evidence of its being fanned from above--and -that the authorities have no efficient machinery of civil order on -which reliance can be placed. Nor is the Central Government always -able to enforce its will on distant provincial authorities, or even to -prevent their varying the orders of the Throne. - -At the same time, say others, the hostility may be exaggerated. The -employment of over 100,000 Chinese by foreign residents, many in highly -confidential capacities, both in the office and the household, and as -many more on board foreign ships, tends to confirm the general verdict -that the people, in an individual sense, are civil, obliging, and even -hospitable towards the foreigner, and well-disposed especially towards -the English trader, who treats them fairly good-humouredly, and without -offending their national prejudices. This is supported, even from Wuhu -itself, for the last Trade Report says: "The trade in goods classed -under Foreign Sundries has increased rapidly during the past two years, -and shows a gain of 70 per cent." - - -SUMMARY OF BRITISH POSITION IN CHINA. - -46.--It remains but to summarize the position of affairs as regards -British interests in China, so far as I have been able to grasp it. - - (_a_) That three-fourths of the foreign trade is in British hands, - and a still larger proportion of the shipping in Chinese waters. - - (_b_) That British commercial firms and residents are in a large - majority among the foreign population. - - (_c_) That the contiguity to China of British India, Burmah, and - Hong Kong, and the large numbers of Chinese residents in British - territories, give England an especial interest in the welfare of - the Empire, and in the gradual opening of the vast markets in the - West, South-West, and Centre. - - (_d_) That while British interests outweigh, in their magnitude, - variety, and extent, not only those of every other Great Power, - but those also of the whole world, Russia upon the North and - North-West, and from her adjacent port of Vladivostock; France, her - ally, upon the South from Tonquin; and Germany upon the coast, are - anxious and watchful competitors. - - -POLICY OF BRITAIN. - -47.--The course of policy best calculated, under such a condition of -things, to maintain and extend British commerce is a matter for the -Electorate to decide. Those who share the feeling of the majority in -Sheffield, that the undeviating conduct of the foreign affairs of the -Empire is essential to the expansion of foreign trade and its wealth of -home employment, will probably consider-- - - (_a_) That the British Industrial interests at stake in China, - and also in Japan, are too great to be necessarily linked to the - comparatively trivial concerns of any other nation. - - (_b_) That as they are mainly dependent upon the safety of the - resident standard bearers of British trade, Her Majesty's ships - in Eastern waters[6] should always be sufficiently numerous and - ready at any moment to protect them, unaided, in their persons and - property. - - (_c_) That the trade route from Europe to Asia, and its line of - defence--Gibraltar, Malta, Cyprus, Egypt, Aden, Ceylon, Singapore, - and Hong Kong--should always be kept in British hands, and secure - against any possible attack. - - (_d_) That at the same time, no accession of friendly territory - being desired, and only mutuality of commerce on equitable terms, - the Emperor of China and the Imperial Government should be enabled, - by the Queen's representatives, to feel that the support of England - will always be forthcoming in any step for the advancement of the - Chinese nation, the development of amicable relations, and the - security of the Empire against any unwarranted maritime aggression. - -FOOTNOTES: - -[Footnote 3: A Chinese literate, who had been to Paris for study, -expressed his opinions of Europe in the following terms. He freely -acknowledged the superiority of our intellectual enterprise, without -being at all persuaded that it was a thing for which we were to be -envied:--"The eyes of your intelligence," he used to say, "are more -piercing than ours, but you look so far that you do not see about you. -You have a bold spirit which must make you successful in many things; -but you have not enough respect for what deserves to be respected. -This perpetual agitation in which you live, this constant want of -diversion, clearly indicates that you are not happy. With you, a man -is always as if he were on a journey, whereas we like to be at rest. -As to your governments, I am willing to believe they have some good -in them; but if they suited you as well as ours suits us, you would -not change them so often as you do. I am quite sure to find, when I go -back to my country, the same institutions as when I left it; and I see -that not one of you would guarantee me, for even a couple of years, the -solidarity of your government as it is to-day."] - -[Footnote 4: Owing to the multitudes of men who find employment in -China by tracking or towing junks and boats up and down the rivers, -canals, and other waterways, once in a splendid condition, but now much -neglected, as also in carrying tea, salt, and other produce on their -backs, over paths inaccessible to horse or cart, there is as much, or -more, popular prejudice against railways as prevailed in England 60 -years ago. One writer says:--"Whenever the effects of our scientific -machinery in abridging labour are explained to a Chinaman, the first -idea that strikes him is the disastrous effect that such a system would -work upon his over-peopled country, if suddenly introduced into it, and -he never fails to deprecate such an innovation as the most calamitous -of visitations."] - -[Footnote 5: It is very common to find that Chinese, meeting on board -ship, or elsewhere, with distant countrymen, are obliged to resort to -"Pidgeon" or English business jargon as their only means of linguistic -communication.] - -[Footnote 6: Her Majesty's fleet round China and Japan consists, -exclusive of torpedo boats, of 22 ships, aggregating 45,100 tons, with -137 large guns. The next naval power is Russia, with 8 ships and 18,100 -tons, and 61 guns. The Japanese have 29 vessels; the Chinese 20, but -all with native officers.] - - - - -MEMORANDUM UPON THE BRITISH TRADE ROAD TO THE FAR EAST. - - 1.--The nearest trade road from Europe to the Far East lies through - the Suez Canal, down the Red Sea, past Perim, to Aden; thence to - Ceylon; from there to Singapore, and to Hong Kong in the China Sea. - - 2.--As three-quarters of the external trade of both China and Japan - is in British hands; as the British residents are nearly equal, - numerically, to those of all foreign nations combined; and as - British ocean steamers are more numerous than those of the whole - world, and eightfold those of Germany, the second on the list, it - is only fitting, independently of the possession of India, that - this trade route should always be retained, as at the present time, - in the hands of England, whose position is greatly strengthened by - the possession of Gibraltar, Malta, and Cyprus in the Mediterranean. - - 3.--So long as this sea road is held intact and properly defended, - Great Britain remains the dominant commercial and naval power in - the China Sea. - - 4.--To pass Perim or Aden in the Red Sea, and so gain access to the - Indian Ocean, would be almost impossible for any European power at - war with England. - - 5.--Singapore likewise commands, to a great extent, the entrance - to, and exit from, the China Sea. - - 6.--Apart, though, altogether from the active power of - fortifications and artillery, torpedoes and submarine mines, there - is the equally effective one of want of coal. - - 7.--Even supposing that Germany, Russia, Austria, or Italy - were able to coal at Port Said,--a state of affairs which, - while we occupy Egypt, would not be possible in a state of - belligerency,--their steamers could not traverse the 7000 miles to - the coast of China without fresh fuel; and, against the will of - England, this would not be attainable. - - 8.--France alone, by coaling at Brock, opposite Aden, and - Pondicherry, might take the outer channel of Singapore, and so - reach Saigon, a distance of 2300 miles; or even Haiphong, in - Tonquin, an additional 600 miles; but the vessels could only steam - very slowly. - - 9.--The defensive value to the Empire of the Colonies guarding this - great trade road is therefore clear. - - 10.--But these prosperous Colonies are also commercially valuable - to the Empire in themselves, and particularly Ceylon, the Straits - Settlements, and Hong Kong. - - 11.--Ceylon does a trade of 6,000,000_l._ a year with the Empire, - whereof half is with the United Kingdom, which she is now supplying - with 50,000,000 lbs. of tea annually. - - 12.--The Straits Settlements have a population of 507,000; and of - the external trade of 178 million dollars, 78 millions are with - the Empire. There is no public debt, and the Colony contributes - (as also Ceylon and Hong Kong) 100,000_l._ a year for its defence, - which is now, for the first time, upon a proper footing. - - 13.--Hong Kong, ceded to the British 50 years ago, has become a - port of first-class importance. Although, not barring the approach - to the Upper China Sea, the Yellow Sea, and the waters of Japan, - it does so to a large extent, in a practical sense owing to the - coaling difficulty. - - 14.--The shipping trade of Hong Kong has doubled in the past 20 - years. Of 130 million tons of shipping, passing in and out of the - harbour in 1890, 7 million tons were British, 4 million Chinese, - and 2-1/2 million foreign. British ships numbered 5500 (an increase - of 136, and 400,000 tons in three years); foreign ships numbered - 2600 (an increase of 307, and 225,000 tons), and Chinese junks - 55,600--a total of 64,000 vessels. - - 15.--The population of Hong Kong is about 200,000, of which 10,000 - are European, and the remainder Chinese. Emigrants from China, to - the number of 42,000, passed through the port, and of these, 36,000 - were bound for places under the British flag, while 850,000 Chinese - visited the island in the course of the year. - - 16.--The general impression of Hong Kong, in a commercial, maritime, - defensive, and picturesque sense, has been fittingly summed up - by the late Governor: "It may be doubted whether the evidence of - material and moral achievement make, anywhere, a more forcible - appeal to eye and imagination, and whether any other spot on the - earth is thus more likely to excite, or more fully justifies, pride - in the name of Englishman." - - 17.--Provided, therefore, the British hold firmly by this trade - route, and, in friendly alliance with China, do all that is - possible to develop mutual trade between Burmah and the Yunnan - district, there is nothing to fear from the rivalry of any other - power, for so long as South Africa remains loyal to the Empire, the - long sea road by the Cape is absolutely impossible to any other - nation. If, however, the short route be cut off at its base, by - the British abandonment of the magnificent mercantile position - established in Egypt, not only will the labour of ten years be - thrown away, but the whole of the gigantic trade with the East be - imperilled. - - 18.--The only foreign powers capable of injuring us, in a naval - sense, in Chinese waters are Russia and the United States. The - former has a formidable fleet, based upon the splendid fortified - harbour of Vladivostock, and could move land forces upon Corea. - The reinforcement of the squadron from Europe should, however, be - impracticable. As regards the United States, hostility is happily - not a likely contingency; but, in any case, the 4500 miles across - the stormy Pacific Ocean, devoid of any coaling station, unless it - be Honolulu, is a formidable barrier. - - C. E. HOWARD VINCENT. - - 21, 12, 1891. - - - - - 40,000 MILES - - OVER LAND - - AND - - WATER. - - By Mrs. HOWARD VINCENT. - - _The Journal of a Tour through the British Empire - and America._ - - Third and Cheaper Edition 3s. 6d., post free. - - OPINIONS OF THE PRESS. - - "Very bright and interesting."--_Morning Post._ - - "Deserves and will receive an extended popularity."--_Daily - Telegraph._ - - "Most charming."--_Vanity Fair._ - - "Chattily and agreeably written in a pleasant and gossiping style. - Open the volumes at what chapter we may, there is something to - amuse and interest."--_The Queen._ - - "There are few English ladies who have travelled as far as Mrs. - Howard Vincent, and fewer still who could render their experiences - in such a natural and interesting manner."--_Figaro._ - - "An extremely fascinating book."--_Sheffield Telegraph._ - - * * * * * - - London: SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON & CO., LIMITED, St. Dunstan's House, - Fetter Lane, Fleet Street, E.C. - - - WORKS - - by - - Colonel HOWARD VINCENT, C.B., M.P. - - A POLICE CODE AND MANUAL OF THE CRIMINAL - LAW FOR THE BRITISH EMPIRE. - - Preceded by an ADDRESS TO CONSTABLES by the Hon. Sir - HENRY HAWKINS, and adopted a Text-Book by nearly - every English-speaking Police Force. - - _Eighth and Abridged Edition._ _Twentieth Thousand._ - - =Price 2s.; or 2s. 2d. Post Free.= - - CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED, Ludgate Hill, London; - - _Or of any Bookseller_. - - - THE "HOWARD VINCENT" MAP OF THE - BRITISH EMPIRE. - - Showing the Possessions of the British People throughout - the World,--their Extent, Population, Trade and - Revenue, &c. - - _For Public Institutions and Schools._ =Price £1 1s. 72 in. by 63 in.= - - INSCRIBED WITH THE NAME OF THE DONOR. - - T. B. JOHNSTON, GEOGRAPHER TO THE QUEEN, EDINBURGH. - - - PROCEDURE D'EXTRADITION. - - =Five Shillings.= - - HACHETTE ET CIE. - - - THE LAW OF CRITICISM AND LIBEL. - - =Two Shillings and Sixpence.= - - EFFINGHAM WILSON. - - - RUSSIA'S ADVANCE EASTWARD. - - =Five Shillings.= - - ELEMENTARY MILITARY GEOGRAPHY, - RECONNOITRING, AND SKETCHING. - - =Two Shillings and Sixpence.= - - KEGAN PAUL, TRENCH, & CO. - - - ST. 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See Low's Standard Library. - - ---- MRS., _High Alps in Winter_, 14_s._ - - BURNLEY, JAMES, _History of Wool_, 21_s._ - - BUTLER, COL. SIR W. F., _Campaign of the Cataracts_, 18_s._ - - ---- _Red Cloud_, 7_s._ 6_d._ & 5_s._ - - ---- See also Low's Standard Books. - - BUXTON, ETHEL M. WILMOT, _Wee Folk_, 5_s._ - - ---- See also Illust. Text Books. - - BYNNER. See Low's Standard Novels. - - CABLE, G. W., _Bonaventure_, 5_s._ - - CADOGAN, LADY A., _Drawing-room Comedies_, illust. 10_s._ 6_d._, - acting edit. 6_d._ - - ---- _Illustrated Games of Patience_, col. diagrams, 12_s._ 6_d._ - - ---- _New Games of Patience_, with coloured diagrams, 12_s._ 6_d._ - - CAHUN. See Low's Standard Books. - - CALDECOTT, RANDOLPH, _Memoir_, by H. 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See Great Artists. - - CUDWORTH, W., _Abraham Sharp_, 26_s._ - - CUMBERLAND, STUART, _Thought-reader's Thoughts_, 10_s._ 6_d._ - - ---- See also Low's Standard Novels. - - CUNDALL, F. See Great Artists. - - ---- J., _Shakespeare_, 3_s._ 6_d._, 5_s._ and 2_s._ - - CURTIN, J., _Myths of the Russians_, 10_s._ 6_d._ - - CURTIS, C. B., _Velazquez and Murillo_, with etchings, 31_s._ 6_d._ - and 63_s._ - - CUSHING, W., _Anonyms_, 2 vols. 52_s._ 6_d._ - - ---- _Initials and Pseudonyms_, 25_s._; ser. II., 21_s._ - - CUTCLIFFE, H. C., _Trout Fishing_, new edit. 3_s._ 6_d._ - - DALY, MRS. D., _Digging, Squatting, &c., in N. S. Australia_, - 12_s._ - - D'ANVERS, N., _Architecture and Sculpture_, new edit. 5_s._ - - ---- _Elementary Art, Architecture, Sculpture, Painting_, new edit. - 10_s._ 6_d._ - - ---- _Elementary History of Music_, 2_s._ 6_d._ - - ---- _Painting_, by F. Cundall, 6_s._ - - DAUDET, A., _My Brother Jack_, 7_s._ 6_d._; also 5_s._ - - ---- _Port Tarascon_, by H. 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See Choice Editions. - - _Wreck of the "Grosvenor,"_ 6_d._ - - WRIGHT, H., _Friendship of God_, 6_s._ - - ---- T., _Town of Cowper_, 6_s._ - - WRIGLEY, _Algiers Illust._ 45_s._ - - _Written to Order_, 6_s._ - -FOOTNOTES: - -[Footnote 7: _Are not yet published._] - - - - -BOOKS BY JULES VERNE. - - - ------------------------------+------------------+----------------------- - |{Containing 350 to| Containing the whole - |{600 pp. and from | of the text with - LARGE CROWN 8VO. |{50 to 100 | - | full-page | some illustrations. - |{illustrations. | - ------------------------------+--------+---------+-----------+----------- - |Handsome| |Cloth | - | cloth |Plainer |binding, | - WORKS. |binding,|binding,|gilt edges,| Limp cloth. - | gilt | plain |smaller | - | edges. | edges. |type. | - ------------------------------+--------+---------|----------+------------ - | _s. d._| _s. d._ | _s. d._ | _s. d._ - | | | | - 20,000 Leagues under the | | | | - Sea. |}10 6 | 5 0 | 3 6 | 2 0 - Parts I. and II. |} | | | - Hector Servadac | 10 6 | 5 0 | 3 6 | 2 0 - The Fur Country | 10 6 | 5 0 | 3 6 | 2 0 - The Earth to the Moon and a |}10 6 | 5 0 |{2 vols., | 2 vols.,} - Trip round it |} | |{2_s._ ea.| 1_s._ ea.} - Michael Strogoff | 10 6 | 5 0 | 3 6 | 2 0 - Dick Sands, the Boy Captain | 10 6 | 5 0 | 3 6 | 2 0 - Five Weeks in a Balloon | 7 6 | 3 6 | 2 0 | 1 0 - Adventures of Three |} | | | - Englishmen and |} 7 6 | 3 6 | 2 0 | 1 0 - Three Russians |} | | | - Round the World in Eighty | | | | - Days | 7 6 | 3 6 | 2 0 | 1 0 - A Floating City |} 7 6 | 3 6 | {2 0 | 1 0 - The Blockade Runners |} | | {2 0 | 1 0 - Dr. Ox's Experiment | -- | -- | 2 0 | 1 0 - A Winter amid the Ice | -- | -- | 2 0 | 1 0 - Survivors of the "Chancellor" |} 7 6 | 3 6 | {3 6 | {2 0 - Martin Paz |} | | {2 0 | {1 0 - The Mysterious Island, |} | | | - 3 vols.:-- |}22 6 | 10 6 | 6 0 | 3 0 - I. Dropped from the Clouds |} 7 6 | 3 6 | 2 0 | 1 0 - II. Abandoned |} 7 6 | 3 6 | 2 0 | 1 0 - III. Secret of the Island |} 7 6 | 3 6 | 2 0 | 1 0 - The Child of the Cavern | 7 6 | 3 6 | 2 0 | 1 0 - The Begum's Fortune | 7 6 | 3 6 | 2 0 | 1 0 - The Tribulations of a Chinaman| 7 6 | 3 6 | 2 0 | 1 0 - The Steam House, 2 vols.:-- |} | | | - I. Demon of Cawnpore |} 7 6 | 3 6 | 2 0 | 1 0 - II. Tigers and Traitors |} 7 6 | 3 6 | 2 0 | 1 0 - The Giant Raft, 2 vols.:-- |} | | | - I. 800 Leagues on the Amazon|} 7 6 | 3 6 | 2 0 | 1 0 - II. The Cryptogram |} 7 6 | 3 6 | 2 0 | 1 0 - The Green Ray | 5 0 | 3 6 | 2 0 | 1 0 - Godfrey Morgan | 7 6 | 3 6 | 2 0 | 1 0 - Kéraban the Inflexible:-- |} | | | - I. Captain of the "Guidara" |} 7 6 | 3 6 | 2 0 | 1 0 - II. Scarpante the Spy |} 7 6 | 3 6 | 2 0 | 1 0 - The Archipelago on Fire | 7 6 | 3 6 | 2 0 | 1 0 - The Vanished Diamond | 7 6 | 3 6 | 2 0 | 1 0 - Mathias Sandorf | 10 6 | 5 0 | 3 6 | 2 vols - | | | | 1 0 each - Lottery Ticket | 7 6 | 3 6 | 2 0 | 1 0 - The Clipper of the Clouds | 7 6 | 3 6 | 2 0 | 1 0 - North against South | 7 6 | 3 6 | | - Adrift in the Pacific | 6 0 | 3 6 | | - The Flight to France | 7 6 | 3 6 | | - The Purchase of the North Pole| 6 0 | | | - A Family without a Name | 6 0 | | | - César Cascabel | 6 0 | | | - ------------------------------+--------+---------+----------+------------ - -CELEBRATED TRAVELS AND TRAVELLERS. 3 vols. 8vo, 600 pp., 100 full-page -illustrations, 7_s._ 6_d._, gilt edges, 9_s._ each:--(1) THE -EXPLORATION OF THE WORLD. (2) THE GREAT NAVIGATORS OF THE EIGHTEENTH -CENTURY. (3) THE GREAT EXPLORERS OF THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. - - - - -PERIODICAL PUBLICATIONS - -OF - -Sampson Low, Marston & Company, Ld. - - -SCRIBNER'S MAGAZINE. - -A Superb Illustrated Monthly. Price One Shilling. - -Containing Contributions from the pens of many well-known Authors, -among whom may be mentioned Thomas Bailey Aldrich, Sir Edwin Arnold, -Andrew Lang, Sarah Orme Jewett, H. M. Stanley, Robert Louis Stevenson, -R. H. Stoddard, Frank R. Stockton. - - -THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. - - A MONTHLY REVIEW. Edited by JAMES KNOWLES. - -Price Half-a-Crown. - -Amongst the contributors the following representative names may be -mentioned:--Lord Tennyson, the Right Hon. W. E. Gladstone, Cardinal -Manning, Mr. J. A. Fronde, Mr. Ruskin, Mr. G. A. Watts, R.A., Earl -Grey, the Earl of Derby, Lord Acton, Mr. Herbert Spencer, Mr. Frederick -Harrison, Mr. Algernon C. Swinburne, Mr. Leslie Stephen, Professor -Huxley, Sir Theodore Martin, Sir Edward Hamley, Professor Goldwin -Smith, and Sir Samuel Baker. - - -THE PUBLISHERS' CIRCULAR, - -AND - -BOOKSELLERS' RECORD OF BRITISH & FOREIGN LITERATURE. - -WEEKLY. Every Saturday. Price Three-Halfpence. - - -SUBSCRIPTION. - - Inland Twelve Months (post free) 8_s._ 6_d._ - Countries in the Postal Union " " " 11_s._ 0_d._ - - -THE FISHING GAZETTE. - -A Journal for Anglers. - -Edited by R. B. MARSTON, Hon. Treas. of the Fly Fishers' Club. - - Published Weekly, price 2d. Subscription, 10s. 6d. per annum. - -The _Gazette_ contains every week Twenty folio pages of Original -Articles on Angling of every kind. The paper has recently been much -enlarged and improved. - - "Under the editorship of Mr. R. B. Marston the _Gazette_ has attained - a high standing."--_Daily - News._ "An excellent paper."--_The World._ - - - LONDON: SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON & COMPANY, LIMITED, - ST. DUNSTAN'S HOUSE, FETTER LANE, FLEET STREET, E.C. - - * * * * * - +--------------------------------------------------------------------+ - | | - | Transcriber notes: | - | | - | P.15. 'these flakes are formd', changed formd to 'formed'. | - | P.169. 'we came aross', changed 'aross' to 'across'. | - | P.170. 'pink and white' in another edition, missing 'and'. | - | P.174. 'Fugiyama' & 'Fugi', changed to 'Fujiama' & Fuji'. | - | P.195. 'Fugi' changed to 'Fuji'. | - | P.214. 'instal themselves', changed 'instal' to 'install'. | - | P.266. 'our ominibus' changed to 'ominibus' to 'omnibus'. | - | P.276. 'A clepsdra', changed 'clepsra' to 'clepsidra'. | - | P.286. 'return home' in another edition, missing 'home'. | - | P.287. 'reputed ro receive' changed 'ro' to 'to'. | - | P.289. 'Thibet sheep' changed 'Thibet' to 'Tibet'. | - | P.315. 'purple buganvillea', changed 'buganvillea' to | - | 'bougainvillea'. | - | P.315. 'and convolvolus', changed 'convolvolus' to 'convolvulus'. | - | P.319. 'high tortoisehell', changed 'tortoisehell' to | - | 'tortoiseshell'. | - | P.340. 'credited to Great Britian', changed 'Britian' to 'Britain'.| - | P.341. 'and tubes Great Britian', changed 'Britian' to 'Britain'. | - | P.363. 'at Shangai', changed 'Shangai' to 'Shanghai'. | - | Adds. P.27. 'Autobio-autobigraphy' changed to 'Autobigraphy'. | - | Changed all incidences of 'Hongkong' to 'Hong Kong'. | - | Fixed various punctuation. | - | | - | Tags that surround the words: _Gazette_ indicate italics, and | - | tags that surround the words: =Price= indicate bold | - | | - +--------------------------------------------------------------------+ - - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Newfoundland to Cochin China, by -Mrs. Howard Vincent - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NEWFOUNDLAND TO COCHIN CHINA *** - -***** This file should be named 51280-0.txt or 51280-0.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/5/1/2/8/51280/ - -Produced by Jane Robins and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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- } -} - -.poem .stanza {margin: 1em 0em 1em 0em;} - -.poem div.i3 { - display: block; - margin-left: 3em; - padding-left: 3em; - text-indent: -3em; -} - -/* Transcriber's notes */ - -.transnote {background-color: #E6E6FA; - color: black; - font-size:smaller; - border: dashed 1px; margin-left: 10%; - margin-right: 10%; - margin-left: 10%; - padding-bottom: .5em; - padding-top: .5em; - padding-right: 2em; - padding-left: 2em; - font-family:sans-serif, serif; -} - - </style> - </head> -<body> - - -<pre> - -Project Gutenberg's Newfoundland to Cochin China, by Mrs. Howard Vincent - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license - - -Title: Newfoundland to Cochin China - By the Golden Wave, New Nippon, and the Forbidden City - -Author: Mrs. Howard Vincent - -Release Date: February 23, 2016 [EBook #51280] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NEWFOUNDLAND TO COCHIN CHINA *** - - - - -Produced by Jane Robins and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive) - - - - - - -</pre> - - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/coverpage.jpg" width="469" height="700" alt="" /> -</div> - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h1>NEWFOUNDLAND TO<br /> - -COCHIN CHINA.</h1> -<hr class="chap" /> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_001.jpg" width="560" height="375" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p>TRAIN EMERGING FROM SNOW-SHED. Page 90.</p></div> -</div> - -<hr class="chap" /> - - -<h2>NEWFOUNDLAND<br /> -<span class="smaller">TO</span><br /> -COCHIN CHINA<br /></h2> - -<p class="p4a"><i>BY THE GOLDEN WAVE, NEW NIPPON,<br /> -AND THE FORBIDDEN CITY</i></p> - -<p class="p1a">BY</p> - -<p class="p4a"><span class="smcap">Mrs.</span> HOWARD VINCENT</p> - -<p class="p1b">AUTHORESS OF "40,000 MILES OVER LAND AND WATER."</p> - -<p class="p3a">WITH REPORTS ON BRITISH TRADE AND INTERESTS<br /> -IN CANADA, JAPAN, AND CHINA</p> - -<p class="p7b">By <span class="smcap">Col.</span> HOWARD VINCENT, C.B., M.P.</p> - -<p class="p3a">WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS</p> - -<p class="p1b">LONDON<br /> -SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON & COMPANY<br /> -<i>Limited</i></p> -<p class="p6">St. Dunstan's House</p> -<p class="p6b"><span class="smcap">Fetter Lane, Fleet Street, E.C.</span><br /> -1892<br /> -[<i>All rights reserved</i>]</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - - -<p class="p6a">TO MY CHILD<br /> -<span class="bigger">VERA,</span><br /> -IN THE HOPE THAT ONE DAY SHE MAY TRAVEL<br /> -AS HER PARENTS HAVE DONE,<br /> -AND<br /> -WITH AS MUCH INSTRUCTION<br /> -AND<br /> -ENJOYMENT.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - - -<blockquote><p>The favourable reception vouchsafed to "40,000 -Miles over Land and Water" has induced me to -yield to the kind wishes of many Friends and -Constituents, and to record the impressions of my -second circle round the world.</p></blockquote> - -<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Ethel Gwendoline Vincent.</span></p> - -<blockquote><p>1, Grosvenor Square.<br /> -<i>May 31st, 1892.</i></p></blockquote> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_ix" id="Page_ix">[ix]</a></span></p> - - - - -<h2>CONTENTS.</h2> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="CONTENTS"> -<tbody> -<tr> - <th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_I">CHAPTER I.</a></th> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Our Premier Colony</span></td> - <td class="tdr">PAGE<br /> <a href="#Page_1">1</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_II">CHAPTER II.</a></th> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">The Maritime Provinces, and through lake and forest, to the Queen City</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_21">21</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_III">CHAPTER III.</a></th> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">By the Golden Wave to the Far West</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_40">40</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_IV">CHAPTER IV.</a></th> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">The Canadian Rockies and the Selkirks</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_70">70</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_V">CHAPTER V.</a></th> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">To the Land of the Rising Sun</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_105">105</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_VI">CHAPTER VI.</a></th> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">New Nippon</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_149">149</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_VII">CHAPTER VII.</a></th> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_x" id="Page_x">[x]</a></span><span class="smcap">The Western Capital and Inland Sea</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_183">183</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_VIII">CHAPTER VIII.</a></th> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">The Yellow Land</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_217">217</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_IX">CHAPTER IX.</a></th> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">The Celestial City</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_247">247</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_X">CHAPTER X.</a></th> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">The Forbidden City</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_272">272</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XI">CHAPTER XI.</a></th> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Shanghai and Hong-Kong</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_297">297</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XII">CHAPTER XII.</a></th> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Cochin China</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_311">311</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <th colspan="2"><a href="#APPENDIX">APPENDIX.</a></th> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap"><a href="#BRITISH_AND_AMERICAN_TRADE">British and American Trade in Canada</a></span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_325">325</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap"><a href="#BRITISH_TRADE_WITH_JAPAN">British Trade with Japan</a></span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_337">337</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl"><span class="smcap"><a href="#BRITISH_INTERESTS_IN_CHINA">British Interests in China</a></span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_348">348</a></td> -</tr> -</tbody> -</table></div> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xi" id="Page_xi">[xi]</a></span></p> - - - - -<h2>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.</h2> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS"> -<tbody> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">St. John's, Newfoundland</td> - <td class="tdr">PAGE<br /> <a href="#Page_3">3</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Plan of a Manitoban Township</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_53">53</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">The Ranche Pupil</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_66">66</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Howe Pass</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_70">70</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Kananaskis Falls</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_73">73</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Cascade Mountain, Banff</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_74">74</a> and <a href="#Page_75">75</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Bird's-eye View of Banff</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_77">77</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Bow Valley</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_79">79</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Banff Springs Hotel, Canadian National Park</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_80">80</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">The Pool, Hot Springs, Banff</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_81">81</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Mount Stephen, the King of the Canadian Rockies</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_85">85</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Train emerging from Snow-shed</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_90">90</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Great Glacier, Canadian Rockies</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_92">92</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">The Loops</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_94">94</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Frazer Caon</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_97">97</a> and <a href="#Page_98">98</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">"A Little Mother"</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_129">129</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">The Red Lacquer Bridge, Nikko</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_139">139</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Pagoda of the Temple at Nikko</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_142">142</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Mausoleum of Yeysu</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_144">144</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">An Imperial Garden, Tokio</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_152">152</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">A Typhoon</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_159">159</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xii" id="Page_xii">[xii]</a></span>Street of Enoshima, Japan</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_163">163</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">My Carriage at Kioto</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_189">189</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">A Chinese Street</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_229">229</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Our Home on the Peiho</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_235">235</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">How I went to Peking</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_241">241</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">A Gate of Peking</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_250">250</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">A Street in Peking</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_261">261</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Her Ladyship's Foot</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_270">270</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">All that is seen of the Forbidden City</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_278">278</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Homage to "The Son of Heaven"</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_280">280</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">The Great Wall</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_295">295</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Harbour of Hong-Kong</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_305">305</a></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Botanical Garden, Saigon</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_314">314</a></td> -</tr> -</tbody> -</table></div> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[1]</a></span></p> - - - - -<p class="p8">NEWFOUNDLAND TO<br /> -COCHIN CHINA.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_I" id="CHAPTER_I"></a>CHAPTER I.<br /> - -<span class="smallish">OUR PREMIER COLONY.</span></h2> - - -<p>Land in sight when I awake at 5 a.m., a grey -streak across the oval of the port. With what -intense satisfaction we gaze on the line of barren -rock, which has a suspicion of green horizon on -the summit of the grey cliffs, only those can -picture who have been at sea for some time.</p> - -<p>Presently we glide past Cape Race, with its neat -signal station on the cliffs, and know that in a -few minutes the arrival of our ship, the <em>Nova -Scotian</em>, will be signalled at St. John's. We see -a few fish-curing sheds on the tiny bays of yellow -sand, and some white specks that represent -cottages. They are dreary little settlements, and -near them the fishing-boats pass us, returning home<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">[2]</a></span> -after their rough night's work, for this is the -inhospitable coast of Newfoundland, the Premier -Colony of England.</p> - -<p>As the morning wears on and the sun rises, it is -a pretty scene. The great blue restless ocean, -with its mighty Atlantic swell, lashing itself in -spray and foam, with a long white line breaking -and disappearing, re-appearing and dying against -the bleak rock-bound coast. Sometimes the cliffs -are formed of strata of grey lava or limestone, at -others they are of rich red sandstone, colours that -are intensified with the peculiar clearness of the -atmosphere. Above all, there is a pure blue sky, -with white clouds chasing each other and casting -shadows along the coast. Now and again we -pass large fishing luggers sailing swiftly by in the -brisk breeze. Some have tawny orange or deep -brown sails, others pure white ones, looking like -wings spread in the sunlight, gliding swiftly and -silently past. It is a rich bit of colouring to eyes -tired and sad with the monotony of an impenetrable, -all-surrounding line of sky and ocean.</p> - -<p>The approach to St. John's is romantic. The -barrier of cliffs still rises to larboard, without an -apparent break or indentation, whilst they say -that we shall be anchored at the wharf in ten -minutes. Another scanning of the coast reveals -at length two rocks rising higher than the others, -with a slight fall between them. The ship ploughs<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[3]</a></span> -along broadside, and until exactly opposite this -opening. With a few final plungings, and last -rollings and tossings, she is brought sharply round, -and we face the harbour of St. John's. The great -brown rocks, sparsely sprinkled with green, rise -up forbidding our entrance, and inside these is -another amphitheatre of granite against which the -town of St. John's is built. The line of wharves -forms a black foundation. The haven where we -would be lies peaceful and blue in the midst. -The first sight of St. John's and the last, always -include the twin red towers of the Roman -Catholic Cathedral standing out on a platform -above the town.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_003.jpg" width="560" height="341" alt="" title="St. John's, Newfoundland" /> -<div class="caption"><p>St. John's, Newfoundland.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[4]</a></span></p> - -<p>Now we are passing immediately under the cliffs, -with which we make very near acquaintance as -we go through the Narrows. To add to the difficulties -of this passage, there is a rock at the -narrowest part called the Great Chain Rock, where -in olden times a chain was fastened across the harbour -to guard the entrance. Another and greater -danger, a sunken rock, lies hidden under the -smooth water. A gun is fired from the lofty -signal station, to tell anxious hearts of the incoming -mail, and with a large part of the population -of St. John's on the wharf (for they always gather -to greet and speed the fortnightly steamer) we -land in Newfoundland.</p> - -<p>On the kind invitation of Lady O'Brien and -the Governor, we are driven by Mr. Cecil Fane, -his Excellency's aide-de-camp and able secretary, -to Government House. This is a handsome stone -building, looking more so amongst its surroundings -of wooden houses, standing above the town in its -own grounds. The view from the house into the -open country is charming. In the far distance a -range of purple mountains. Then patches of dark -pine forests, alternating with green, park-like -spaces. The Roman Catholic cemetery with its -wooden crosses lying on a hillside. Beneath it in -a basin, the little blue lake of Quidi Vidi, which -plays such an important part in the social life of -St. John's. Here they yacht and boat, fish and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[5]</a></span> -bathe in summer. In winter they use it to sleigh, -skate, and toboggan on, but above all they hold their -annual regatta here. It is fixed for next week, -and may be called the Epsom of Newfoundland. -The population from all parts of the Island gathers -to see it. In olden days each merchant chief had -his yacht and crew of employs, and partisanship -ran high, but now the races belong to the clubs in -town, such as the Temperance, Athenum, etc.</p> - -<p>In the afternoon the Hon. Augustus Harvey -took us for a beautiful drive of twenty-eight miles -across the Island. Who, seeing that bare rocky -coast in the morning, would have believed that the -interior of the Island could be so lovely! We -drove along a good macadamized road, passing the -pretty white wooden houses with red roofs and -neat palings, the country residences of the merchants. -Here is the one belonging to Mr. Baird of -lobster fame. Each house has a flagstaff and -floating flag; indeed, St. John's is called the city of -flags, for everyone who is anybody possesses one, -and flies it proudly when in residence. There are -great clumps of purple iris growing wild by the -roadside. We pass through many plantations of -fir trees, junipers and larches. The great feature -of Newfoundland scenery is water. It is everywhere. -Flowing in rivulets, covered with reeds by -the roadside, enclosed in hollows in the hills as -lakes, hurrying from the mountains as a gushing<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[6]</a></span> -torrent, protesting angrily in rapids and foam -against the rocks in its course. It is the great -feature and the great charm, and one-third of the -Island is said to be water. In one drive you may -count as many as two dozen lakes.</p> - -<p>At times, as you look round, the country reminds -you of Scotland, with the purple blue mountains in -the distance and the dark patches of fir trees. At -others there is a marshy and barren bit of bog -land, with cabins recalling the wilds of Connemara. -Then some scene in the Tyrol is brought before -you; high mountains and deep valleys filled with -dense pine forests, a lake hidden in their midst. -Frequently a chain of mountains has a similar -chain of lakes winding at its base. These lakes -are divided by a narrow isthmus of land, or connected -by flowing streams. They are full of fish -of all descriptions. If England is the paradise for -horses, this is the paradise for fishermen. Other -sport can be obtained by the partridge-shooting -in August and September. The partridges resemble -Scandinavian ptarmigan. There are also -wild deer to be had by stalking the mountains -forty miles in the interior.</p> - -<p>We always think of Newfoundland as the land -of fog, lobster, and cod, and know it best in connection -with the breed of Newfoundland dogs. -This race is degenerating and threatened with -extinction, and there are scarcely any good<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[7]</a></span> -specimens of these beautiful and intelligent dogs -left in the island. But I think few have any idea -what extremely beautiful scenery there is, and when -there is no fog, the atmosphere is remarkable for -extreme dryness and clearness, giving the most -vivid colouring and the sharpest delineations to -the mountains.</p> - -<p>This was the case to-day; and as we drove to -the Twenty Mile Lakes, so called because they -are twenty miles round, I thought I had rarely -seen brighter, prettier, or more varied landscape. -The water of St. John's comes from these lakes, -and they claim to have the purest supply of any -town in the world. Instead of being bare and -desolate, the country is green and smiling. There -are a few widely scattered farm-houses, but as a -whole not much cultivation is attempted.</p> - -<p>After a long ascent, we gain a glimpse of the -sea. We have been driving across a narrow mainland, -from the ocean to the ocean, and before us, -gleaming softly in the evening sunlight, is the -beautiful Bay of Conception. The surrounding -cliffs are quite purple, the ocean is a golden sea -broken up by green islands. Far below us is a -cluster of houses, a fishing settlement, with a lobster -factory and some flakes run out over the rocks. -There are boats idly rocking at the quay, whilst -others are catching bait for a fishing schooner, -lying at anchor in the bay. They told us of one<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[8]</a></span> -of the governors who was brought here within sight -of this bay to die. He thought it so beautiful. -So did we. Then we drove home quickly in the -dusk, late for dinner, but charmed with the island. -We found Sir Terence and Lady O'Brien just -arrived from a few days' cruise by the "Out-ports" -on the coast. They give us wonderful descriptions -of the grandeur of the scenery. The government -steam yacht, in which they journeyed, will start -with the judges on circuit in a few days.</p> - -<p><em>Thursday, Aug. 6th.</em>—We awoke to a lovely -spring morning, with the breeze whispering -amongst the trees, and the Union Jack flapping -gently against the flagstaff in Government House -garden. Spring has just come. Asparagus and peas -are coming up in the garden, strawberries are ripening -and the hay is ready to cut. We have gone back -three months in our season. The climate of Newfoundland -is abominable. The winter is interminably -long and severe, lasting from the beginning -of October to May. There are incessant fogs, -which envelop everything in a cold damp pall.</p> - -<p>Nor is the island exempt from these fogs even -during its short summer. The climate is also -subject to extreme and rapid changes, from heat -to cold, in a few hours. The summer has been -unusually delayed this year, and had we come -three weeks earlier, we should have seen an iceberg -in the middle of the harbour.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[9]</a></span></p> - -<p>Newfoundland is about the size of Ireland, or -one-third more. Its population is some 200,000, -but of this number 28,000 live at St. John's, which -is therefore the centre of all life, commercial, -political and social. The remainder of the population -is chiefly settled on the coast, in fishing -villages called the "Out-ports", whilst the interior -of the island is sparsely settled, and in some -parts unexplored. The population is dwindling, -and there is no immigration, of which they are -jealous, as reducing the means already deficient -of living, but there is emigration to Canada and -the United States.</p> - -<p>The people are of English, Scotch and Irish -descent, but those from England are chiefly from -the west coast and Devonshire. The Premier, -Sir William Whiteway, is a Devonian. And a -curious little fact exemplifies this. If you ask -for cream, it is always Devonshire clotted cream -that is brought.</p> - -<p>Newfoundland was the first of England's -colonial possessions. Sebastian Cabot discovered -the island in 1497, and claimed it for Henry VII. -With the discovery of America, all nations came -forward to claim a share, but it was England and -France who chiefly engaged in the fisheries, which -were then a source of great wealth. Sir Gilbert -Humphrey and Sir Walter Raleigh annexed the -island for Queen Elizabeth. Even at that time<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[10]</a></span> -100,000<em>l.</em> worth of fish were annually exported. -The ships left England in March, and returned in -September, and these voyages formed a nursery -for English seamen. In 1635 the French obtained -permission from England to dry fish on the shores -of Newfoundland. This may be said to have laid -the beginning of the troubles which are now so -active. The island was kept in a deserted condition -by the merchant adventurers up to 1729. -They persuaded the authorities at home that it -was uninhabitable, in order that they might retain -the fishing rights in their own hands. Masters of -vessels were obliged to bring back to England -each soul they embarked, under penalty of 100<em>l.</em> -When at length this tyranny gave way, a -governor sent from England, and the island -colonized, the fishermen were still so poor as to -be in complete subjection to the merchants under -the "supplying system." This baneful "truck" -practice begun so long ago, continues in use unto -this day, with equally evil results. The only -support of the fishermen (who form the bulk of -the population) is fish. Upon the result of the -fishing season the year's comfort and prosperity -depend. But this, to be done on a profitable -scale, requires a considerable plant. There are -only three classes in Newfoundland: the merchants, -the planters, and the fishermen. The -last class are in durance to the first, through the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[11]</a></span> -medium of the planter. The planter obtains from -the merchant the necessary outfit for the fishermen -in clothes and goods, and this is sold on credit. -On his return from the fisheries (the chief of -which are off the Great Bank), he seizes the catch -and repays himself, and the merchant, who disposes -of the fish. Thus the fishermen are kept -in a hopelessly poor and dependent position.</p> - -<p>Of course, since our arrival, we have heard -every side of this much-vexed Fishery Question. -But at least we can now fully understand the "life-and-death" -importance of the question to the -island, of the curtailment of their fishery grounds -by the French shore dispute. The life of the codfish -and lobster is the life of the Newfoundlanders, -and to lessen their catch of fish is to lower proportionately -their already low standard of living. -The question of the French obtaining bait and -erecting lobster factories is discussed at every -dinner table. Mr. Baird, by defying Sir Baldwin -Walker, is called the village Hampden. They -feel deeply the apparent want of sympathy of the -Home Government, and indeed it cannot be easy -for Her Majesty's Ministers to understand the vital -interests involved in this dispute to the islanders -without a personal visit to St. John's.</p> - -<p>We should like to have visited the disputed -fishing shore off the islands of St. Pierre and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[12]</a></span> -Miquelon, but it lies 135 miles down the coast, and -the only means of communication is by a fishing -schooner.</p> - -<p>We went sight-seeing in St. John's in the morning. -Our first visit was to the adjacent square -stone building, the House of Assembly. It is a -miniature House of Commons, contained in a lofty -room, with long windows. There is the Speaker's -chair, the table, the ministerial and opposition -benches, though the latter are only occupied by -the eight members in opposition, whilst the ministerial -benches boast a cohort of twenty-six, -of whom all but two are said to be in receipt of -an official salary. There is also a Legislative -Council, or Upper House; and an Executive -Council, or Cabinet, which meets weekly at -Government House.</p> - -<p>Sir William Whiteway, the Premier, returns by -the next steamer from the Delegation to England, -but his colleagues are here, and we meet them -all.</p> - -<p>The Roman Catholic cathedral is the next most -prominent building at St. John's. Its situation on -a plateau high above the town, and facing the -harbour, tells in its favour. Inside the railed-off -square there are four beautiful marble statues. -The Cathedral is finely proportioned inside, and -over the high altar there is a fine bas-relief -representation of the Dying Christ. The more<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[13]</a></span> -you travel, the more struck you are with the -activity of the Church of Rome in all parts of the -world, and particularly in the Colonies. We found -it so in Australia and New Zealand. In Eastern -and Central Canada the finest buildings in the -cities are the Roman Catholic cathedrals. So it -is at Ottawa, at Montreal (where they are building -one with a dome after the model of St. -Peter's), and at Halifax. Here it is the same. -One wonders whence the money comes, and -whether it is true that the Roman Catholics, with -no State endowment, are more generous in the -support of their religion than us Protestants. -We visited Bishop Power, for we hold a circular -autograph letter from Cardinal Manning (my -husband's godfather, now gone to his rest), written -in Latin, and addressed to all the Archbishops, -Bishops and Clergy of the Roman hierarchy in all -parts of the globe. It ensures us a welcome from -them everywhere.</p> - -<p>We then went to the English cathedral, which -lies lower down in the city, and is a fine Gothic -structure designed by Sir Gilbert Scott, but it -presents a sorry contrast to the other, as there is a -blank where the tower should be, and, save for a -few stained glass windows, it is bare and undecorated. -There is a heavy debt of 20,000<em>l.</em> on the -cathedral, to meet which several public-spirited -gentlemen have banded together and insured their<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[14]</a></span> -lives in its favour. They feel that they have made -sufficient sacrifices, and that having built the fabric, -it must be left to their sons to decorate it.</p> - -<p>Then we descended to Water Street. It is the -principal street, lying parallel with the harbour, and -a somewhat untidy and unsavoury avenue. It is -a real descent to reach it, for the other streets -climb up from it at right angles, and each one -is a mountain to ascend. There is one cab-stand -here for the whole town. The vehicles on it -are of antiquated date, the seat for the driver -dovetailing into a back seat for a passenger. -There are frequent stand pipes ready for the fire -brigade, who have stations with the horses standing -ready under suspended collars, and all the -new improvements. The pressure of water is so -good that, with hoses attached, the jets will pass -over the cathedral. Thrice already destroyed by -fire, St. John's now takes all human precautions. -There are several banks, a fine hotel, from without -at least, but which is said to defeat its exterior promise -inside, a general hospital, penitentiary, orphanages, -sailors' homes, and a technical and high school. -The education of the island is in a far advanced -state, with compulsory and free education. The -museum in the post office contains specimens of -the marble, coal and gypsum found in the island. -Newfoundland is rich in mineral wealth, and only -requires capital for its development.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[15]</a></span></p> - -<p>We had a heavenly afternoon for a tea picnic -to Logy's Bay. Indeed the beautiful drives and -expeditions seem endless, and Logy's Bay is only -one of the many lovely coves and bays that indent -the coast. We dip over the hill and look down -on an exquisite little picture, with a blue bay -surrounded by headlands of red and green cliffs, -and the sea shimmering beyond. Far away on -the horizon there is a gleaming white pillar. It -is a floating iceberg. We wish, oh! so much, as -we eat strawberries under the cliffs, that it was -nearer to us.</p> - -<p>Before we descended into Logy's Bay, we knew -that it contained a fishing settlement, by the -pungent odours of highly flavoured fish that -ascended to us, and over the bay there are many -extended flakes. These flakes are formed by rough -supports made of fir poles covered with branches -of fir-trees. Each codfish is split, salted and laid -open on these flakes. It takes six weeks of exposure -to cure the fish, and there is a good deal of -labour involved. Each morning the cod must be -laid out on the flake. Each evening it must be -gathered in, stacked and covered with bark, to -which stones are attached to keep it down. This -fish is then exported to Roman Catholic countries -like Spain, Brazil, Portugal, Austria and Italy, -where it forms the staple of food for the poorer -population on fast days. It is worth about 2<em>d.</em><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[16]</a></span> -per lb. The small boats that we see outside the -bay, are busy collecting bait. The bait they -obtain to catch the cod are caplin, herring and -squid, according to the season. We have just -missed seeing a lobster factory, as they closed by -law on August 5th. The factory, it appears, only -consists of an open shed and a stove. As the -lobsters are only worth here about three shillings -per hundred, it seems that a large profit, by exporting -them fresh, might be made in England.</p> - -<p>In returning, we drove round Lake Quidi-Vidi -and on reaching the top of a hill looked down -on a typical fishing settlement. The granite rocks -of the coast shut it into a narrow cove, through -which courses a stream that finds a narrow outlet -to the ocean. The wooden houses are huddled -together, finding foundations on and against the -rocks, whilst the flakes are run out in all directions -over the stream, and men and women are hard at -work splitting, salting and drying the last arrived -boat-load of fish.</p> - -<p>There was a dinner party at Government House -in the evening, where we met Lady Walker, wife -of Sir Baldwin Walker, Mr. Bond, Mr. Harvey, -and other members of the Government, as well as -Mr. Morine, the leader of the opposition. The -next day was Sunday, and we experienced a -sudden and disagreeable change of climate. It -was bitterly cold, and we were glad of fires. But<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[17]</a></span> -we have not yet had a real Newfoundland -fog.</p> - -<p>We are in great difficulty as to how to leave -the island, and find ourselves steamer-bound. -That tardy line, the Allan, has a fortnightly -service <i>via</i> Halifax to St. John's, but we shall be -obliged to take a cargo boat.</p> - -<p><em>Monday, August 10th.</em>—A mid night embarkation -on the Black Diamond Line s.s. <em>Coban</em>, from the -deserted wharves of St. John's. The donkey -engine is at work all night, and in the cold grey -of early dawn we slipped out of the harbour. -There ensued two days and nights of abject -misery, only relieved by the sight of land at seven -o'clock on Wednesday evening. We enter Glace -Bay on the peninsula of Cape Breton. The -channel entrance is so narrow that we executed -some wonderful nautical manœuvres before -anchoring at the wharf. We are landing on a -barren shore, the chief object of interest being a -coal shoot with some trucks of coal on it. We -are near the great Sydney coal mines, and the -country is as bleak and desolate as our Black -Country. The sun is sinking, but the air is warm -and moist.</p> - -<p>We land at this uninviting place, and after -some searchings amongst a half-dazed population, -who seem to show surprise, mingled with -resentment at our intrusion, we find a ramshackle<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[18]</a></span> -country buggy, in which to drive fourteen miles -to Sydney. We are told the track is rough. -The light is fast failing. There is only one -narrow seat for the somewhat bulky driver and -ourselves. For a moment I cannot see where I -am to sit. But every second it is growing darker, -and with no alternative I scrambled up, and -fortunately being small, I was wedged in securely, -and during the very rough drive was perhaps -the less shaken. The four-year-old pony sorely -tried my nerves at starting by shying, and -turning sharp round—a fatal thing in these -lockless buggies. Our good driver—the local -constable—negotiated the worst places, the holes -and rocks and frail wooden bridges, with great -care, and saved us all he could. Still, we suffered -severely.</p> - -<p>We passed the two great coal mines of Sydney -which supply all the coal to Newfoundland, -and much to Canada. It is soft and dirty fuel. -We saw the lights of the miners' cottages, and -passed some of them returning with an electric -lamp in their caps. On and on we drove. The -twilight failed, and a pale crescent moon rose, but -its dim light only added half-seen terrors to the -road, as we drove through dusky pine forests and -heard the rush of unseen waters, whilst the lamp -of the luggage cart in advance looked like a will-o'-the-wisp -dancing up and down. On and on<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[19]</a></span> -for what seemed like hours. No dwelling-places -in sight, no human being seen, no sound heard, as -we crossed in the darkness that isthmus of land -between Glace Bay and Sydney.</p> - -<p>After a weary while we at last saw the welcome -lights of Sydney, and drove into a sleeping -village, only to be told that every room in the -place was full. At length a priest and a commercial -traveller, fellow-passengers from the steamer, -found a room, which they gave up to me. It was -in a little public-house, but the bed-room was -lighted by electricity!</p> - -<p>We were up at 5 a.m., and in a torrent of rain -drove to the station. The Intercolonial Railway -only opened this new line from Sydney across -Cape Breton eight months ago. It communicates -with the magnificent harbour of Sydney and the -exceedingly beautiful Bras d'Or Lakes. We -travelled by the shores of several "guts," or inlets -from the harbour. Then opens out the broad -expanse of the lake itself, surrounded by mountains, -along the foot of which we are creeping. -The name Bras d'Or has such a pretty origin. -When the French, in exploring Cape Breton, first -saw the lake, it was autumn, and the shores were -all golden in their autumnal glory; hence they -called it the Golden Arm. For miles we are passing -along its shores, which the waters are gently -lapping under a leaden sky, and the great mountains<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[20]</a></span> -covered with fir forests, rise gloomy and -forbidding on the further shore, bathed in clouds -and mists. It is a beautiful, though depressing -scene. The lake closes in, and its banks nearly -meet at the Narrows, which the train crosses on -an iron trestle bridge from one shore to the other. -There is excellent fishing in this lake, and now -that the railway has opened it up, it is sure to -become known and largely visited.</p> - -<p>At the Straits of Canso, the contents of the -train, including passengers, are embarked on a -ferry, and cross the narrow strip of sea that divides -Cape Breton from the mainland of Canada. We -disembark in Nova Scotia.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[21]</a></span></p> - - - - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_II" id="CHAPTER_II"></a>CHAPTER II.<br /> - -<span class="smallish">THE MARITIME PROVINCES, AND THROUGH -LAKE AND FOREST TO THE QUEEN CITY.</span></h2> - - -<p>A long railway journey. The light streaming -into the berth of a sleeper of the Intercolonial -Railway awakes me, and a few minutes afterwards -I emerge from between the curtains, to see the -morning sun on the dancing waters of Bedford -Basin, the land-locked harbour of Halifax. For -about ten miles we are skirting this harbour before -running into the town.</p> - -<p>Most people would agree in thinking Halifax a -charming place. There is nothing in the primitive -city, with its straight, narrow streets of -wooden houses, most of which require a new coat -of paint, to make it so. There are few public -buildings worthy of notice. But the charm lies in -its position on the peninsula of land, with the -deep bend in the North-west Arm on one side, -and Chebuctoo Bay on the other, leading into -Bedford Basin. Thus there is water on every -side.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[22]</a></span></p> - -<p>Halifax has a large official society, and takes -some pride in being thought very English in its -habits and ways. It owes this to being the -one military station left in Canada where there -are British troops, and also to its harbouring a -naval station, with a resident Admiral and three -war-ships at anchor in the bay. The Lieut.-Governor -also resides here, and so Halifax<a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> is full -of official residences. Each province in Canada -has a lieut.-governor, who receives the appointment -for five years at the hands of the Governor-General, -with a moderate salary and an official -residence. He is generally some prominent and -popular local man, who is thus rewarded for -political services by the Premier of the day, who -advises the representative of the Crown, and practically -confers the post. Each province also has its -local parliament, or legislature, which is independent -of the Dominion Parliament, and forms its -own laws of internal economy, constituting a body -like our County Councils. Thus, in Canadian -capitals, their public buildings always include the -Parliament House, a Government House, and -Ministerial offices.</p> - -<p>In the afternoon Mr. Francklyn came and took -us for a drive in the beautiful park at Point<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[23]</a></span> -Pleasant. We skirt along the blue bay, dotted -with white sails, for there is a regatta in progress, -until we reach the well-named Point Pleasant. -This promontory is covered with a magnificent -pine forest, through which wind miles of splendid -roads, made by companies of the Royal Engineers -when stationed here.</p> - -<p>On one side the park is bounded by a deep -inlet of the sea, running a long way inland, and -which is called the North-west Arm. At a certain -point there is a sunlit vista looking up this -narrow bay, which is very beautiful. There are -pleasant country-houses out here, in one of which -Mr. Francklyn resides. It is a perfect afternoon, -with warm sunshine, and a pleasant breeze -whispering and sighing in the fir-trees.</p> - -<p><em>Sunday, August 2nd.</em>—In the morning I went to -church at St. Paul's. This is a very old wooden -building with a spire. There are the same -timbers as were used for its construction in 1794, -when the Hon. E. Cornwallis landed in Chebuctoo -Bay with 2000 settlers. He planned this site for -the church, and built it on the design sent out by -the Imperial Government, which was on the model -of St. Peter's, Vere Street. In 1787, when the -first Bishop was appointed, he took it for his -cathedral. It has taken part in all the great -functions connected with the history of Halifax; -and the walls are covered with mural tablets to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[24]</a></span> -the memory of the generals and admirals who -have died on the station.</p> - -<p>We were told to go and see the public garden, -which is very well laid out with carpet beds and a -miniature river. The gardener is a resident of -Halifax, and was sent home to England a short -time ago, to model it on our London parks. In -the evening we attended the Presbyterian Church -to hear Principal Grant preach. He is the able, -sympathetic and popular Principal of the Kingston -University. The Presbyterians have a strong -following, and fine churches throughout Canada, -probably owing to the large number of original -Scotch settlers.</p> - -<p>From Halifax we should have gone to St. -John, New Brunswick, by Annapolis, through -the beautiful country celebrated by Longfellow, -and called the Land of Evangeline, and across -the Bay of Fundi, but there was doubt as to the -hour of arrival of the steamer to be in time for -a meeting of the United Empire Trade League. -I must here digress a minute to explain that it -was no part of our original Canadian tour to -practically be "stumping" the country from Halifax -to Vancouver on the subject of Imperial -Preferential Trade. The meetings were thrust -upon my husband, and, once begun, each city -claimed its meeting in due course. Albeit, I must -confess that he fell in gladly with the arrangement.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[25]</a></span> -I may fairly say that for over six weeks -in Canada, I was the victim of the United Empire -Trade League.</p> - -<p>In our schoolroom days we learnt that St. John -is the capital of New Brunswick, and Halifax -the capital of Nova Scotia. In the weariness of -a hot study and the drowsiness of a summer -afternoon, we may vaguely wonder of what use -this, and much else that we learn, will ever be to -us. It is pleasant now to have knowledge -triumphantly vindicated, and geography by personal -visits made easy.</p> - -<p>Lying on several peninsulas formed by the -river of St. John, the harbour, and the Bay of -Fundi, the city is surrounded by water. You -cannot be many minutes in the town without -hearing of the fire of 1877, that great epoch -in local history. Beginning in a blacksmith's -shop, it destroyed nine miles of streets and an -entire portion of the town. We were shown -the one building that was left untouched in the -midst of the conflagration, and for what reason -no one has ever been able to ascertain. The -town was rebuilt with red sandstone, granite and -brick. It looks so handsome and substantial when -compared to the wooden cities of Halifax and -other Canadian towns.</p> - -<p>The Mayor (Mr. Peters), the President of the Board -of Trade (Mr. Robertson), met us at the station<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[26]</a></span> -and drove us about the town, and pointed out to -us such public buildings as the Custom House, -the hospital, the asylum for the insane, etc. My -experience goes to tell that they are the same in -all cities of the world. We passed rapidly from -the summit of one peninsula on to the next, -looking down streets that always seem to lead to -water. There are pretty views from these heights -of the large city, containing 40,000 inhabitants, -spread out over these successions of hills, with the -harbour dotted with sails below. Far away -into the country, the river is seen winding -amongst grey, overhanging cliffs and pine-clad -mountains. They claim for it scenery as fine as -the Hudson.</p> - -<p>But the prettiest view of all is from the Cantilever -Bridge. Here the wide mouth of the St. -John river flows through the harbour to the sea, -interrupted by rocky islands, clothed in green. -They have a great curiosity here in the shape -of a reversible waterfall. The tide at the mouth -of the river rises and falls as much as forty feet. -As the river flows seawards it is forced by the -volume of water coming down the river over a -ridge of rock, and forms a waterfall into the -harbour at low tide. When the tide turns, the -salt water is forced backwards up the river, -and forms a waterfall the reverse way.</p> - -<p>St. John was founded by the United Loyalists.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[27]</a></span> -The other day there was a touching incident of -a brave boy who went out in a storm here and -saved the life of a child, perishing in the attempt. -Subscriptions poured in for the erection of a -public monument. They proposed to erect it -on a spot we were shown, but in excavating they -came upon the well-preserved coffins of twenty -of these United Loyalists.</p> - -<p>The city is the centre of a great lumber trade; -30,000 yards of timber are cut on the banks of -the river annually and floated down to St. John's. -They have free and undenominational education. -The streets are paved with blocks of cedar. -Electric light is in general and domestic use. -Altogether, St. John is a most enlightened and -advanced city.</p> - -<p>We got into the "cars" at night for a long -journey of two days and two nights to Toronto.</p> - -<p>Through the State of Maine we sped at night; -one of the two American total Prohibitionist -States. Though saving 200 miles by this route, -it seems a pity that the C. P. R. could not keep -their line in Canadian territory, as, in the event -of war with America, or one in which she was -a neutral ally, her connections could be severed.</p> - -<p>During this long journey of 1500 miles from -Cape Breton, through the Maritime Provinces, to -the more cultivated and open country of Ontario, -the scenery has been beautiful but monotonous.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[28]</a></span></p> - -<p>There are two features which repeat themselves -over and over again to the eye, the ear and the -senses: they are that Canada is a land of many -forests, and that Canada is a land of many -waters.</p> - -<p>For many hundreds of miles we passed through -the midst of these enduring spruce forests, the -narrow track whose path has been roughly cleared -by burning, extending with its thin thread of -iron through their densest growth, lost through -their trackless depths. On either side of the -clearing though these, mighty forests, there is a belt -of blackened stumps of grey, armless stems, where -the fire has passed over them. Sometimes even -there will be one green living tree left standing -among the dead. And these dull grey mutilated -trees look quite pathetic in their pale nakedness, -leaning hither and thither, and finding support -across one another, as if falling in their last -agony, or lying dead and uprooted on the -ground. They exercise quite a fascination as -they continue for mile after mile in their dying -contortions, whilst in the background there are their -living brethren, so green, hardy and dense in their -growth. The ground beneath is strewn with -blackened snags that are partly covered with green -moss and ferns, their fresh growth mingling with -these dark reminiscences of man's ruthless hands. -In sedgy places there are beds of waving bulrushes,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[29]</a></span> -and sometimes a few wild flowers, such as the -fox-glove, the mimosa, and the golden-rod.</p> - -<p>Hundreds of acres of these lumber forests are on -every side, and indeed, a large proportion of the -Dominion is covered with these mighty stretches -of pine and spruce. There are other varieties such -as maple, birch and poplar, but the spruce fir is -the chief growth, as it covers all the land that is -not cleared or occupied by water. We see piles -of ready-cut timber, stacked for transport, or cars -laden with it at every station. The rivers and -lakes are full of floating timber, and abandoned -rafts. Frequently the whole surface of the river -will be blocked with lumber, which, carried by the -current, arranges itself transversely in floating -down. This generally happens near a town or -village. For miles away up these deep valleys, -there are men busy lumbering all the summer. -They cut down and strip the trees of bark and then -float the lumber down to the nearest place for -export. We constantly pass sawing mills where -water power is used for the machinery. The bark -is only useful for "kindling" or firewood. Some -of the wood is crushed to pulp and used for the -manufacture of paper.</p> - -<p>Occasionally in the middle of these forests the -engine will startle us with an unearthly whistle. It -is a sign that we are approaching a human habitation, -and in a rough clearing we pass two or three<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[30]</a></span> -wooden huts, with a potato patch mingling with -the black stumps, and women and children at the -door. One pities their solitary life, shut in by the -impenetrable forest, and wonders how they obtain -supplies. Sometimes there is a larger clearing -with more attempts at farming, but where the -fields, though divided off, are still a mass of charred -stumps.</p> - -<p>This work of clearing by the Eastern settler must -be terribly disheartening. There is, first of all, a -dense undergrowth to be hewn through and piled -up ready for burning. This when dry kindles the -conflagration which is to help so materially in the -task. After a spell of dry weather and with the -wind in the direction he wishes to clear, it must -be joy to the settler to see the flames leaping up -and hungrily devouring the trees. The fiercer and -longer the fire lasts and the cleaner it burns, the -more pleased he is, and when it dies down he must -look sadly around at the trees still standing, knowing -that now each one must be cut down by -his own labour. Then each blackened stump and -snag must be grubbed up singly. This is work -done by the sweat of the brow. It is tedious, -laborious and apparently endless. Occasionally -you come across a beautifully cleaned piece -of ground, which is pleasant to look upon, but -generally the land is roughly cleared, in fact you -wonder how the few cows and sheep find sufficient<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[31]</a></span> -green sustenance among such a black outlook of -burnt stumps. The enormous waste of valuable -timber by this rough-and-ready method of clearing -seems to us reckless prodigality, but the settler -surrounded by miles of similar forests cannot see -it in this light.</p> - -<p>The variety of rough wooden fences, with their -ingenious inventions to save labour and time, -become a source of interest. The roughest kind -are formed of the roots of trees, turned on their -sides, the roots forming a thorny fence. It is -picturesque, untidy, but practical for its purpose, -and is called a "snag" fence. Others are formed -of timber stakes of every description, some with -barbed wire. This, however, is too expensive to -be largely used. But the prettiest of all are the -snake fences. Very easy of construction, they run -along in graceful zig-zags.</p> - -<p>The land cleared, and the ground fenced off, the -building of the house comes next. This is a land -of lumber, and of course the house is made of -wood. They are simple and easy of construction, -being of one story with a door in the centre and a -window on either side. The door must be covered -with wire netting, for the flies in the forest amount -to a pest. They are lined with planked wood -inside and out, and the roof is covered with -shingles or flat strips of wood nailed on like tiles. -Between the outside and inside there is a lining of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[32]</a></span> -paper tarred thickly over. This makes the house -air-tight. In Canada a large proportion of the -dwelling-houses are built of wood. Montreal and -Toronto have streets of handsome stone houses, -and in all Canadian towns the public buildings -and offices in the city are of stone or brick. Still, -wooden houses largely predominate throughout the -Dominion. It seems curious, but arctic as the -winters are, these wooden houses are more suited -than stone to the climate. In the latter the mortar -absorbs and gives off damp in a thaw, whilst the -wooden houses are dry, air-tight and extremely -comfortable. Most of the houses have furnaces in -the basement, which heats the warm air in the -pipes of each room, or at all events a stove in the -hall. This and double windows are a necessity in -the winter.</p> - -<p>During this long journey, we are again impressed -with the volume and extent of the lakes -and rivers. The country is absolutely fretted with -these fresh-water lakes, which are full of salmon -and trout. Some are very large, like Lake Megantic, -which we pass, and which is twelve miles long; -or Moosehead, which is forty miles long and from -one to fifteen miles broad. Others are only like -large ponds. Then there are broad rivers, deep -and strong; wide rivers, shallow and rapid, and -mountain torrents, brown and babbling. But it is -always water everywhere, still or running, silent<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[33]</a></span> -or noisy, blue or green according to its depth. -If you read for a little while, or your attention is -turned away from the car window, on looking up -again there is sure to be more water in sight.</p> - -<p>We now re-visited Ottawa, Montreal, and -Toronto in the interests of, and for meetings of, -the United Empire Trade League, after a lapse of -six years. At the capital kindly, enthusiastic, -and hospitable was the official and parliamentary -welcome to my husband, but we heard much of -the "scandals," and of the loss to the country of -Sir John Macdonald. Of the former subject we -weary, as of the extravagant language which fills -the papers, the following being a specimen of the -daily head-lines:—</p> - -<p>"Boodle and Bungle." "The Slime of the -Serpent is over Them All." "A Story of Greed, -Incompetence, Extravagance and Muddle." -"Another Public Works Scandal," etc.</p> - -<p>Montreal, with its natural attractions of the -St. Lawrence and the Mountain, is little changed. -But Toronto has grown enormously, and is now -approached through some miles of suburbs. The -Torontonians claim that their "Queen City" has -increased in the last few years more than any -other on this Continent, not excepting any in the -United States. They may well be proud of it.</p> - -<p>On Saturday, August 22nd, we left Toronto, -and five hours in the cars brought us to Owen<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[34]</a></span> -Sound. This part of the line was laid by an -English engineer, who they say had never laid a -railway before; it was taken over by the C.P.R. -and was incorporated into their great line. It is not -difficult to believe that this was the case, for the -car narrowly escapes derailment by the roughness -of the road.</p> - -<p>Owen Sound is the point of departure for the -C.P.R. steamers across the lakes of Huron and -Superior. I think it is a preferable route to the -railway, as it saves two days and two nights in the -cars. The steamers are very comfortable and -well arranged. They are constructed to carry a -large cargo. On this voyage the cargo consists of -agricultural machinery going out west for the -harvest, and soon it will be the grain of the north-west -which they will be carrying to the east. -They have a capacity for 40,000 bushels of grain, -and they are constructed in such a way that the -grain can be shipped direct to and from the steamer -by the grain elevator.</p> - -<p>For several hours we steam through the Georgian -Bay or southern extremity of Lake Huron. It is -a pretty inlet with forested banks, and a great -expanse of smooth blue water. It is difficult to -realize the vast area of space covered by these -Canadian lakes. Lake Huron, which we have -been crossing all night, covers 28,000 square miles; -Lake Superior, which we are about to enter, has<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[35]</a></span> -30,000 square miles. Lakes Erie, Winnipeg, -Michigan, and Ontario, must be added to these -miniature oceans. And we are not surprised to -find, that Canada claims to have one quarter of -the whole of the fresh water of the globe on her -surface.</p> - -<p>The next morning the banks of Lake Huron -are drawing closer together, leaving us a narrow -channel staked out in the centre. We are passing -a regular procession of barges. There are as -many as three being towed in line, and as the -passage is narrow and devious, we could shake -hands in passing. Also, as we salute each one, -and are saluted, with a threefold whistle, the noise -is continuous and wearing. These barges are -laden chiefly with lumber, but some have coal, -grain, and ore.</p> - -<p>We enter the narrow mouth of the Sault Ste. -Marie River, commonly called by the Americans -the "Soo." This river is the outlet between the -waters of Lake Huron and Lake Superior. There -is a fall of forty-two feet. It is a broad and muddy -river, and on the right hand we have American -soil, and on the left Canadian. Perched on the -bridge in the crisp morning air, the views are very -pretty. The mountains, as always, are covered -with the dark blue-green of the familiar pines. -The banks are clothed in brilliant green, just mellowing -into yellow under autumn's golden hand. We<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[36]</a></span> -are shown a quarry of valuable variegated marble -in the mountain side, which is proving inexhaustible. -Then we pass the wreck of the <em>Pontiac</em>. -She was run down by her sister ship four weeks -ago, and lies helplessly across the course, her bows -stove in, and the bridge and hurricane deck only -above water. They are pumping her out, gallons -of water pouring from her rent side.</p> - -<p>Ten miles of this ascent of the river, and bending -round a corner, we come in sight of Sault Ste. Marie. -Like so many other places, the town has been -created by the developing energy of the C.P.R., -whose cantilever railway bridge we see crossing the -river, but it is typical of the energy and "go" of the -Americans, that on their side of the river there is -a town, whilst on the Canadian it is only a village. -At Sault Ste. Marie there are some pretty rapids -which you can shoot in a canoe. Communication -between the two great waterways of Lakes -Superior and Huron is by a lock, where the water -rises and falls sixteen feet. The lock is on the -American side, but the Canadians are making a -deeper one of twenty-two feet. This Soo Canal -is of the greatest commercial importance. Sixty -vessels, in the summer season, pass through it -daily, or more, they allege, than through the Suez -Canal.</p> - -<p>There was a long procession of steamers and -barges waiting on either side for their turn. It is<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[37]</a></span> -so shallow that little way can be allowed to the -ships in passing in and out, and for two hours and -a half we sat and were quite amused watching the -skill which packed three large steam barges into -this narrow canal. It must not be thought that -these steam barges are like our dirty barges on -the Thames or on English canals. They have a -tonnage of 1500 or 2000 tons, and are as smart -as white paint and polished brass can make them, -being lighted, too, by electricity.</p> - -<p>These great lakes have a complete through -connection to the ocean by means of rivers, -locks, and canals. Recently the whale-back -boat was taken from Chicago by this route to the -Atlantic and across to London. But as the commerce -from the West increases, the canals will -require widening and deepening. This through -waterway will have an important bearing on the -commercial development of Canada. Its drawback -is that from November until April the lakes -are frozen. We, who travel through Canada in -the summer, forget what a different aspect the -country assumes, when for six months of the year -it is frost and snow bound.</p> - -<p>A few hours after passing the Soo Canal, we -had left the flat banks behind us, and passed out -on to the ocean-like waters of Lake Superior, -across which we steamed for ten hours.</p> - -<p>At eight o'clock there is the great purple pro<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[38]</a></span>montory -of Cape Thunder in sight. It is a bold -outline against the pale morning sky, clear, with a -keen north wind. It shelters inside the circular -bay of Thunder, with Port Arthur at its head. -We pass Silver Island, where thousands of dollars' -worth of silver have been raised and sunk -again.</p> - -<p>After the mine had been opened, the sea broke -in, and a crib had to be constructed. The silver is -there, but the difficulties in raising it seem insuperable. -The whole of Cape Thunder is formed of -mineral deposits.</p> - -<p>We land at Port Arthur. It is a sad place. -The C.P.R. has ruined the rising town by -choosing Fort William, five miles further up the -river, for its lake port. The once thriving place is -deserted, the shops closing, the large hotel empty. -Such is the power of a great monopoly; it creates -and destroys by a stroke of the pen.</p> - -<p>Before leaving the <em>Alberta</em> at Fort William, the -time is put back an hour. It recedes as we travel -westward, and advances for east-bound travellers. -The time of the Dominion is taken from Montreal, -and is numbered, for convenience and business -purposes, consecutively, that is to say, they have -no a.m. or p.m. to confuse their train-service, and -their watches have the double numbers, and one -p.m. becomes thirteen, and two p.m. fourteen, and -so on. A proposition has just been made in the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[39]</a></span> -Dominion Parliament to equalize the time, but it -will not pass, at all events, this session.</p> - -<p>Fort William was one of the advanced posts of -the Hudson Bay Company. It is now a swamp -laid out in streets at right angles, with wooden -houses, overshadowed by some enormous grain -elevators. Doubtless it has a great future before -it. We wait here five long hours for the west-bound -train.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[40]</a></span></p> - - - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_III" id="CHAPTER_III"></a>CHAPTER III.<br /> - -<span class="smallish">BY THE GOLDEN WAVE TO THE FAR WEST.</span></h2> - - -<p>Our journey to the Far West, through golden -wheat, began at Fort William; from there the -Canadian Pacific takes us across to the ocean.</p> - -<p>The C.P.R., with its 2990 miles of railway, is -the iron girdle that binds Canada together from -the Atlantic to the Pacific Oceans. She gives -cohesion to this conglomerate whole, with its -varieties of climate and production. Every mile of -the line is worth a mile of gold to the country, for -at every place where she lays down a station, that -place becomes a town, a centre of population, -civilization, and wealth to the surrounding district. -This railway has been the great explorer, the -great colonizer, the great wealth producer of -Canada. It is the artery of the body of the -Dominion.</p> - -<p>One has constantly to remember that six or -seven years ago all this country through which -we are passing was an unexplored wilderness. -A little band of plate-layers, headed by a surveyor,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[41]</a></span> -true pioneers, must have forced their way through, -hewing trees, blasting rock, and making the silent -woods resound with the voice of civilization, -occasionally coming across the track of some -Indian encampment or the marks of a bear. It -must have required great forethought and -organization from headquarters to have the plant -and stores ready to push on day by day, whilst -the railway in rear acted as the pioneers' single -communication with the outside world, as they -plunged deeper and deeper into the forests. The -average speed of construction was about five miles -a day, and the greatest length laid in one day -was twelve and a half miles. The portion of -line between Port Arthur and Fort William was -the most difficult to devise. Indeed, several -times the engineers despaired. The railway is -divided into divisional sections, with a superintendent -at each. These again are divided into -sections, with a surveyor in charge; and we -frequently pass their lonely section houses. Every -portion of the line is inspected once a day, the -workmen using a trolly, which can be lifted on and -off the track. It is a single line, and there is only -one passenger train daily east and west.</p> - -<p>The trains are very long and heavy, often consisting -of eight or nine cars some eighty feet in -length, weighing as much as fifty tons each. They -would jump the track if lighter. Our train to-day<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[42]</a></span> -was of this length, and carried a human -freight of 286 persons, exclusive of the numerous -officials. The sleepers or sleeping-cars are most -elegant, with their polished pine wood inlaid with -mother-of-pearl, and their pale sea-green brocade -hangings.</p> - -<p>The colonist cars on these trains are excellent, -and always, we noticed, well filled. They have -berths like the sleeper, only with no upholstery, -but the colonist can buy a mattress and pillow at -Montreal for a dollar or two. They have a stove -where they can cook their own provisions, and on -landing from the ocean steamers they get into this -car, live in it, and come as far west as they want -to without change or stoppage.</p> - -<p>From Fort William we passed through a wild, -rocky country, following the line of the Kaministiquia, -a shallow river scrambling over a rocky -course. There are a few of these soft liquid -Indian names, embodying some symbolical or -romantic ideal, still left; but they are fast dying -out, and the practical settler is changing them to -a more prosaic but pronounceable nomenclature.</p> - -<p>It was through this lonely district, then, unexplored -by white man, that for ninety-five days -Wolseley, in 1870, led his troops against the -Indians. They marched 1000 miles from Fort -William to Fort Garry, utilizing the waterway of -the lakes and rivers where possible. At Savanne<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[43]</a></span> -we see two of his flat-bottomed boats, lying rotting -in the stream near an Indian village.</p> - -<p>We have dinner in the private car of Mr. Howland -and Mr. Wilkie, the chairman and general -manager of the Imperial Bank of Toronto. -Seated at the end of the train, we watch the twin -lines of railway uncoiling themselves in a straight -line for mile after mile. An occasional section-house, -a station, which is often only a wooden shed -on a platform, a board with the number of the -section on it, and, at long intervals, a huge red tank -for watering the engine, is all we see. Night -closes in on this lonely country, and we sleep in -our berths, while the engine steams and pants -along into the darkness, hour after hour through -the long, long night.</p> - -<p>In the cold early morning we reach Rat -Portage, passing from the state of Ontario into -Manitoba. Rat Portage is a wooden village of -1400 inhabitants (this is considered quite a goodly -population for this sparsely-peopled country); -and has the largest flour mill in Canada. It lies at -the outlet of the beautiful Lake of the Woods, -which is forty miles long and studded with -islands.</p> - -<p>A brake has broken and the train is divided, -the first half taking on the dining-car. Hungry -and impatient, the passengers wait for another to be -attached, and stand on the carriage platform ready<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[44]</a></span> -to rush on board. But, as it passes, a howl of -disappointed hunger goes up, for some knowing -ones have jumped off the cars, and filled it before -it leaves the siding.</p> - -<p>We are still travelling through the same rock-bound -country, ungainly masses of rock protruding -through a scrub growth of dwarf trees. We -continually pass beautiful lakes, placid sheets of -water hidden away in hollows. This is succeeded -by a run through some "muskeg" or black peaty -bog land, where flourish rank grasses against a -background of bushy poplar trees.</p> - -<p>Thirty or forty miles from Winnipeg the -country opens out and gradually assumes a prairie -character. The land is quite flat now, covered -with coarse yellow grasses, and sprinkled with -wild flowers. It is a rich feast of colours. There -are great patches of gorgeous wild sunflowers, -masses of purple and white michaelmas daisies, -growing more plenteously here on the open prairie, -than when cultivated in our cottage gardens at -home; there are bluebells and lupins, blue, pink, -and white, marsh mallows, cyclamen, and acres of -that weed-like growth, the golden rod. Isolated -houses, becoming more frequent, tell us we are -nearing Winnipeg. We cross the Red river and -are in the station.</p> - -<p>Winnipeg is the old Fort Garry settlement -of the Hudson Bay Company. Twenty years ago,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[45]</a></span> -or in 1871, population was 100, now, in 1891, it -is 30,000.</p> - -<p>The town is set down in the midst of the prairie. -Main street follows the winding of the old Indian -trail which takes in the deep bend of the Red -river. The City Hall in this street, or "on" as -the Canadians would say, is a very handsome -new-looking structure. It front of it stands the -column erected to the memory of the soldiers who -fell in the North-West rebellion of 1870. It is -surmounted by a volunteer on guard, wrapped in -his fur coat, and with his fur cap on his head. -The streets are paved with blocks of wood, but -the foot pavements are still boarded; indeed -Winnipeg is a strange mixture, with Eastern -civilization meeting in this border city, the Western -or rough-and-ready methods of the settler. It is -only interesting on this account.</p> - -<p>In the streets there are bullock carts bringing -in cradles of hay from the prairie; sulkies, which -are constructed of two wheels and a tiny board for -a driver's seat; and buckboards, used for purposes -of all kinds. Nor must I forget the little carts with -their tandems of dogs. These are a mongrel breed, -and are much used, especially in winter, when they -are driven four, six, or a dozen in hand in sleighs. -As we get further west, the breed of horses -improves. There are country yokels with burnt -faces, coarse straw hat, and flannel shirt, gazing<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[46]</a></span> -open-mouthed at the store windows, for Winnipeg -is to them what London is to our country lads. -Here is a family party of Indians emerging from -a shop with numerous parcels, to the evident joy -of the squaw. But what strikes you so much is, -that you may pass from this handsome street of -fine stores, straight out on to the broad expanse of -prairie.</p> - -<p>On the block of Government land stands the -fine group of stone buildings of the Parliament -House, together with the Ministerial offices for the -Province of Manitoba, the Governor's residence, -and the wooden barracks enclosed in a square. -We stayed at the Clarendon Hotel, whose days are -I fear numbered, as the Northern Pacific Company -are just completing a magnificent red sandstone -hostelry. It is shown as one of the sights of -Winnipeg.</p> - -<p>Mrs. Adams, wife of an old Royal Welsh brother-officer -of my husband's, kindly took me for a -drive in the afternoon. On the outskirts of the -town the Assiniboine river takes a deep bend, in -which there is some woodland. Trees are scarce -on the prairie, and what there are—poplar, oak -and maple—are all stunted in their growth from -exposure to the north-west blast, which sweeps in -winter across the great waste, a piercing, biting -wind blowing from over acres and acres of snow. -In this green belt there are many handsome<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[47]</a></span> -houses, built in an ambitious style of architecture, -with towers and porticoes and balustrades. They -were chiefly constructed during the great "boom" -of nine years ago, a disastrous event that has left -its mark. The town still suffers from the troubles -which quickly followed. Families are yet living -under the cloud of the financial bankruptcy which -then overtook them.</p> - -<p>In 1872, Winnipeg, with a sudden awakening, -realized the immense future before her as the -capital of the Far West. Land was quickly bought -up. Large prices given and realized. Houses -were built on a magnificent scale. Crowds -flocked in from all parts of Canada to share in the -coming prosperity, A complete collapse followed. -The bubble had burst.</p> - -<p>The meaning of a "boom" may be thus simply -exemplified. A buys a piece of land from B, -and pays half the price down as a first instalment. -He sells to C at an increased price, who, in his -turn, does ditto to D. At length B, the original -seller, calls for payment. C and D are unable to -meet the call, and are ruined in endeavouring to -do so, and the land is thrown back on A, who is -in the same position, and B has it thrown on his -hands, and never having in the first place received -full payment, is also ruined, for he has speculated -with the money. All classes had taken part in -this "wild land speculation," and all were involved<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[48]</a></span> -in the collapse. Houses were closed (for they -could not be sold, as there were no purchasers) or -are only, as we now see them, partially lived in. -Winnipeg is slowly recovering from this "boom," -and with the youth and energy of a young city -will renew her prosperity.</p> - -<p>Passing the ruined gateway of the old Fort -Garry, we appropriately come to the Hudson Bay -Store. It is contained in a large block of buildings, -and is a new departure in the trade once -absorbed by that great and powerful fur-trading -company. They first explored the country, -owned it, and kept up friendly relations with the -Indians. It was one of those great trading -monopolies, owned by merchants, and which have -done so much for the wealth and commerce of -England. The Hudson Bay Company has accomplished -in a minor degree for Canada, what the -East India Company did for India. This shop -may truly be called the Army and Navy stores of -the West, for it contains everything from brocades -and Paris mantles (which are bought by the -squaws) furs, carpets, groceries, to Indian blankets, -pipes and bead work. In this bead work the -blending of colours is exquisite. At the last -Louis Riel rebellion, the wholesale department -outfitted and provisioned at twenty-four hours' -notice, 600 soldiers for thirty days.</p> - -<p>We then visited the tennis club. I am impressed<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[49]</a></span> -with the immense utility of this popular -game, which, if useful in England, performs a -large social duty in all Canadian towns. It forms -a mild daily excitement, and a meeting place for -all, and is especially useful in a country where, -with the impossibility of obtaining servants, entertaining -is a difficult matter.</p> - -<p>Canon O'Meara took us one morning to the -outskirts of the city to see the cathedral. Lying -out in the country and built of wood, it resembles -a simple village church. The surrounding -cemetery is full of handsome monuments, and -here lie many victims of the boom. The most -interesting monument is the granite sarcophagus, -engraved with seven names, surrounded by laurel -wreaths of the victims of the last rebellion. Their -remains were brought back here to be buried, -with an impressive public funeral.</p> - -<p>We visited the Bishop of Rupert's Land in his -adjoining house. He is Metropolitan of eight -bishoprics, and has an enormous diocese reaching -into the unexplored regions of the Mackenzie -River. He has organized a college on the model -of an English University, and which confers -degrees.</p> - -<p>Studying the working of the Church in Canada, -one recognizes some arguments in favour of -Disestablishment. In Canada there is no State -endowment, and the clergy are supported by<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[50]</a></span> -voluntary contributions. This money comes -partly from pew rents, and is greatly assisted -by the envelope system. By this method the -parishioner covenants to give a certain sum a -year for the maintenance of his church, by fixed -weekly Sunday instalments. He is furnished with -fifty-two envelopes, on which his name is printed, -and these contributions are entered in a book. -There appears to be no difficulty in raising funds -by these means, particularly if the clergyman is -popular. If he is unpopular, or his doctrines unacceptable -or extreme, he suffers by the falling off -of his income. This system, moreover, has the -advantage of giving every man an interest in his -church. A clergyman observed that several -members of his congregation appeared at church -for the first time on the establishment of this -envelope system. "Oh, yes," they said, in -response to his remark, "we have got some stock -in this concern now."</p> - -<p>It works particularly smoothly where the bishop, -adapting himself to the needs of a new country, -admits the principle that those who pay must -choose. They require, however, a Clergy Discipline -Act as much as we do.</p> - -<p>Mr. Robinson took us in the afternoon for a drive -across the prairie to Sir Donald Smith's model -farm at Silver Heights, where there are three -splendid specimens of the now extinct buffalo,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[51]</a></span> -some of the few left of those vast herds that -used to roam the prairie. The farm takes its name -from the adjoining wood of silver poplar trees.</p> - -<p>C. visited the venerable French Archbishop -Tach. He told him that he came out forty-six -years ago, and that it took him then sixty-two days -to travel from Montreal, what he can now perform in -sixty-two hours. He showed the inkstand from -which his uncle, the Premier of Quebec, Sir Etienne -Tach, signed the Confederation Act of Canada.</p> - -<p><em>Thursday, August 27th.</em>—Before leaving Winnipeg -Major Heward gave us an early inspection -at the barracks of the Mounted Infantry. They are -smart and well-mounted on brancho horses, reared -in the west. We also inspected the chief of the -three fire stations. They have a chemical -steamer. In this the water is mixed with carbolic -acid gas. Fire being supported by oxygen, the -carbolic gas, when thrown on it, extinguishes the -supply of oxygen, and with it the fire. The fire -bell, in sounding, throws open the stable door and -the horses trot out by themselves and place their -necks under the suspended collar, which descends -and is fastened by a patent bolt.</p> - -<p>The west-bound trains all stop at Winnipeg for -five hours to allow time for the colonists to visit -the Railway and Dominion Land Offices, and to -obtain information respecting selections of lands. -The land in the North-West Provinces has now<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[52]</a></span> -been surveyed and allotted thus for twenty-four -miles each side of the line. In a township of -thirty-six sections of 640 acres, or one square mile -to each section, the Dominion retains roughly one -half, whilst the C.P.R. retains the other. There -are two sections reserved for school purposes, -that the value of the land may make the schools -free and self-supporting, two sections for the Hudson -Bay Company, and the Canada North-West -Land Company have bought others. The diagram -on page 53 will show the division of sections.</p> - -<p>The station was crowded with large parties of -emigrants, as many settlers leave their families -here, whilst choosing their sections further west. -There are bundles of bedding, tin cooking utensils, -with bird cages and babies in promiscuous heaps.</p> - -<p>As we pass out of the station we see the enormous -plant and rolling stock of the C.P.R., which -has here its half-way depot between Montreal and -Vancouver. They have twenty miles of sidings, -which are now full of plant waiting to be pressed -forward, to bring down the harvest to the coast.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[53]</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/i_053.jpg" width="500" height="505" alt="" title="TOWNSHIP DIAGRAM" /> -<div class="caption"><p>TOWNSHIP DIAGRAM.</p> - -<p class="indent">The above diagram shows the manner in which the -country is surveyed. It represents a township—that is, a -tract of land six miles square, containing 36 sections of one -mile square each. These sections are subdivided into -quarter sections of 160 acres each.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>We are out on the prairie at once, on that great -billowy sea of brown and yellow grass; monotonous -it is, and yet pleasing in its quiet, rich, monotones -of colour. The virgin soil is of rich black loam. -The belt of unsettled land round Winnipeg is -caused by the land being held by speculators, but -after that we pass many pleasant farms, clustering -more thickly around Portage le Prairie, a rising -town. We pass a freight train entirely composed -of refrigerator cars, containing that bright pink -salmon from British Columbia, which is a luxury -in the east and a drug in the west. The engine<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[54]</a></span> -bears a trophy of a sheaf of corn, to show that the -harvest in the west has already begun.</p> - -<p>Out of the whole year we could not have chosen -a more favourable moment for visiting the North-West, -as the harvest is in full swing. We are at -this moment passing through a sea of golden grain, -acre after acre extending in an unbroken line to -the horizon. Indeed we are told that these wheat -fields form a continuous belt some forty miles deep -on either side of the railway.</p> - -<p>It would be difficult for anyone living even in -the east of Canada, to realize the enormous interest -shown in the crops and weather out here. For -months and weeks beforehand it forms a general -topic of conversation, but, as August closes in, it -becomes the one and all absorbing concern. The -newspapers are scanned for the daily weather -reports. Warnings are telegraphed broadcast -through the land. As Professor Goldwin Smith -says, in his book "Canada and the Canadian -Question," "Just before the harvest the weather -is no commonplace topic, and a deep anxiety -broods over the land."</p> - -<p>The interests at stake are enormous, involving -as they do the question to many of prosperity or -ruin. One cold night, or one touch of frost may -destroy the labour of a year. This year the -promise is exceptional, and the prospect was bright -until a week ago. Then there were ominous<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[55]</a></span> -whispers of frost. These early and late frosts are -the scourge of the farmer, and the lateness of the -harvest, owing to an exceptionally cold summer, -increases the anxiety. Day by day, hour by hour, -the temperature is discussed with earnestness, increasing -with intensity as evening approaches. The -other night there were people in Winnipeg going -up and down Main Street all night and striking -matches to look at the thermometer placed there. -The interest to all was so vital that they could not -rest. There are warnings published in bulletins to -farmers, to light smudge fires to keep the frost -from the wheat. These fires of stubble, lighted to -the north or north-west of the fields, by raising the -temperature two or three degrees, keep off the -frost, and the dread of smutted wheat. We see -these smudge fires smouldering as we pass along.</p> - -<p>The virgin soil will yield as much as forty to -fifty bushels of wheat an acre, and from fifty to -sixty of oats. Manures are unknown and unwanted -by these western farmers. The land has -only to be "scratched with a plough," and the field -will often yield a rich harvest of 500 acres of -wheat. The hum of the harvest is heard in all the -land, and we see for miles the golden grain waiting -to be gathered, and the "reapers and binders" -hard at work. This machine is an ingenious -American invention, which cuts and binds at the -same time. There is a string inside which is given<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[56]</a></span> -a twist, a knife comes down and cuts the strings -and throws out the sheaf. It is pretty to watch -the rhythmical precision with which sheaf after -sheaf, thus cut and tied, is thrown out on the track -of the machine. The sheaves are then piled into -generous stacks and left for a fortnight to dry. -Labour is at a premium throughout Canada, -and machinery, chiefly of American manufacture, -is more largely used than in England. Sometimes -two chums will farm 200 acres alone. Nearly all -this grain we see is the far-famed Manitoba No. -1 hard. It is the finest wheat in the world.</p> - -<p>We are now approaching Brandon, which is a -great wheat centre. This town has the largest -grain market in Manitoba, as is shown by five -elevators. "It is the distributing centre for an -extensive and well settled country." We should -have stayed here, but were deterred by accounts of -the hotel accommodation. Then came the pleasure -of an orange sunset, gilding the grain into more -golden glory. We passed the celebrated Bell -Farm at night where the furrows are usually four -miles long, and the work is done by military -organization, "ploughing by brigades, and reaping -by divisions."</p> - -<p>At five o'clock we are left cold and shivering in -the just broken dawn on the prairie side at Regina. -We look wistfully after the disappearing train, -with the warm berths inside the car. Deceived by<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[57]</a></span> -the high-sounding designation of Capital of the -North-West Provinces, we had broken our journey -at Regina. There is a frontage to the line of -some wooden houses and stores, which extends -but a little way back, for the population of Regina -is only as yet 2000. The prairie extends to the -sky line on every side. It is a dreary prospect, -and we are mutually depressed.</p> - -<p>There being nothing else to do, I retire to bed -for some hours—the Sheffield-born landlady giving -us a true Sheffield welcome.</p> - -<p>At one o'clock matters seem brighter, for -Colonel Herchmer, commanding the Mounted -Police of the North-West Territory, has kindly -sent a team for us to drive two miles out across -the prairie to the barracks. From the distance, -the dark red buildings look quite a town, surmounted -by the tower of the riding school. This -force is organized on military lines, and consists -of 1000 men, who maintain order over the Indian -Reservations, and an area of 800 miles. Their -uniform of scarlet patrol-jacket and black forage -cap, with long riding-boots is extremely smart. -You meet them in all parts of the North-West -Provinces.</p> - -<p>After lunching with Mrs. Herchmer, we inspected -the officers' and men's mess rooms, the canteen, -store room, kitchens and forge, the reading-room, -bowling alley and theatre, and the guard room,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[58]</a></span> -where we were shown the cell in which Louis -Riel was kept after his capture. The force is -under strict military discipline. They have a -football and cricket team, and a musical ride equal -to that of the Life Guards.</p> - -<p>The horses are all "bronchos," or prairie horses, -bred chiefly from Indian ponies. They cost 100 -dols. to 120 dols. each, and are short and wiry. -They need to be strong, for the men must be five -feet eight inches in height, and measure thirty-five -inches round the chest, while the Californian saddles -they use are very heavy. These saddles are after the -model of the Spanish South American ones, with -a high pommel in front and a triangular wooden -stirrup. The horses are guaranteed to go forty -miles a day. There are many gentlemen in the -ranks of the force, some of whom have failed in -ranching and other walks of life. The wild -roving life on the out-stations may be pleasant, but -there is no promotion from the ranks.</p> - -<p>A drive of two miles further out on to the -prairie brought us to one of the Dominion -Schools, kept for the children of the Indian -Reservations. Mr. Hayter Reed, the Government -Inspector, who showed us over the school, told us -that they do not force the parents to give up the -children, but persuade them. It is uphill work at -first, civilizing and teaching English to the little -brown, bright-eyed children, with lank black hair,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[59]</a></span> -whom we saw in the schoolrooms. The bath and -the wearing of boots is a severe trial to these gipsy -children at first.</p> - -<p>The Government acknowledges in the building -of these schools its responsibility towards the -natives. They made treaties with the Indians, -giving them rations, and setting apart certain -lands or Reservations for them, such as the Black -Foot and the Sarcee. The Americans did the -same with their Indians, but did not keep their -treaties as we have done. However, like all other -"indigenes," they are dying out with the advance -of the white man's civilization. We drove home -past Government House, and in the evening -M. Royat, the Lieut.-Governor, presided over an -enthusiastic meeting of the United Empire Trade -League.</p> - -<p>Since very early morning, and all through this -interminably long hot day, we have been crossing -the great desert prairie. Hour after hour has -dragged wearily on, and still we look out from the -car on to the symmetrical lines of the rolling -plains.</p> - -<p>For over 400 miles, from Regina to Medicine -Hat, this vast steppe extends. There is no green -thing on it—not a tree, or bush, or shrub—but it is -covered with coarse grass, burnt to a sere yellow. -The prairie is trackless as a desert; lonely as the -ocean; vast and colourless as a summer sky. And<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[60]</a></span> -yet the prairie pleases, its loneliness fascinates, its -very monotony charms, the deep stillness soothes, -the tints are so pale and quiet. There is the faded -yellow of the grass, and the faint blue of the sky -meeting on the horizon in that never-ending -undulating line, unbroken and uninterrupted. -The atmosphere is so clear that the blades of -grass stand out alone, and a distant sage bush is -intensely blue. Occasionally the haze makes the -mirage of an ocean on the sky line. The only -variety to this unvarying scene are the great saline -lakes we frequently pass. A blue haze hangs over -them, caused by the active evaporation, and now -and again we see a shining patch of pure white -crystal, which is the crust of salt left from an exhausted -lake. At other times these dry basins are -carpeted with a rich red and purple weed, that -forms an oasis in the wilderness of burnt-out -hues.</p> - -<p>We see many buffalo trails, for though these -animals have been extinct for some years, their -prancings beat the trail so hard, that they are still -in existence. As many as 160,000 were killed -yearly, and with them disappeared the chief -sustenance of the Indians. The prairie is strewn -with their bleached skulls and carcasses. By the -side of the stations there are stacks of their gigantic -bones, artistically built up with the skulls facing -outwards. Gophers start up and skurry away at<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[61]</a></span> -the noise of the train. They correspond to the -prairie dog of America, but are smaller and about -the size of a rabbit.</p> - -<p>We are impressed with the comparative fertility -of the Canadian prairie, when contrasted with the -similar belt of saline desert in America, for barren -as this looks, parts of it are good for cattle ranching. -We do, later in the day, occasionally pass a few -settlers' dwellings, and presently the first of the -Canadian Agricultural Company's farms. There -are ten of these farms, consisting of 10,000 acres -each, and situated at intervals of thirty miles -between this and Calgary. We see on them -frequent "fire breaks," or a ploughed acre left -bare to prevent a fire from spreading in the crops. -There are men, too, stationed along the line firing -the grass, so that a spark dropped from the engine -should not, by blazing this grass, spread to the -ripening corn.</p> - -<p>We inquire what is the use of the mounds -by the tracks, and are told these are snow brakes. -In this flat country the smallest rise is sufficient -to make a drift, against which the snow piles to a -great height.</p> - -<p>We pass Moosejaw. The name is an abridgment -of the Indian one, which literally means, -"The-creek-where-the-white-man-mended-the-cart -with-a-moose-jaw-bone." At Maple Creek there -are large stock yards, where the cattle are brought<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[62]</a></span> -down from far distant ranches, and even from -over the American border at Montana, and put -on the train to Montreal and exported to -England.</p> - -<p>The car had been up to 95, but the intense -heat was beginning to subside. With the refreshing -coolness and the sun declining, we are also -gladdened by the sight of a gradually rising -slope on the dead level of the plain. It is the -beginning of the Cypress range. Then we see -a bush, some trees, some prairie flowers, and -soon we are dropping down into the comparatively -fruitful valley of the South Saskatchawan, -and, crossing its broad river, we reach Medicine -Hat.</p> - -<p>It is delightful after the stifling atmosphere of -the cars to get out and stroll in the station garden, -which is full of old-fashioned English flowers, -stocks, geraniums, verbenas, floxes, and mignonette. -There are a picturesque party of Indians -with their squaws and papooses on the platform. -We have seen some at all the stations selling -polished buffalo horns, mocassins and bead work; -but try and "kodak" them as we often did—and -the instant they saw the small black box, the -men turned away and the women put their shawls -over their heads.</p> - -<p>On leaving Medicine Hat, we ascended the -valley above the river and passed on to a more<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[63]</a></span> -fertile prairie. There was just here a great -meeting-place for the buffaloes, and the ground -is full of their "wallows" or hollows made by -the weight of their unwieldly bodies. Alas, -that the law against their slaughter came four -years after they had all been wantonly killed!</p> - -<p>We reach Calgary at the atrocious hour of -two a.m., and turn out of a warm berth into a cold -bed at the hotel.</p> - -<p><i>Sunday, August 30th.</i>—We attended morning -service at the pretty little wooden church, the -Bishop of Saskatchawan officiating.</p> - -<p>Calgary is the capital of Alberta and is in the -centre of a great ranche country. Like all these -towns out west it is an unfinished conglomeration -of houses, laid out in imaginary streets at right -angles, in which there are few houses and more -gaps. The whole is held together by a principal -street, in which there are two or three pretentious -new stone buildings. From here the houses -straggle away into the country, the unoccupied -lots being joined to them by a boarded foot-path. -These towns have no depth, they are all surface -and length. Laid down on the prairie there are -no trees near them and they have a bare unfinished -ugliness, peculiar to their new growth.</p> - -<p>You are reminded at every turn of the reason -for Calgary's existence, for its shops indicate the -ranchers' wants. There are many saddlers, displaying<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[64]</a></span> -Californian saddles, stock whips and -lassoos; others have camp bedding and furniture; -canned goods, that stand-by of the rancher, are -evidently in great demand. The dry-goods stores -are full of flannel shirts, slouching broad-brimmed -hats and "chaps," or the cowboy's leather -leggings reaching to the thigh. Nearly everyone -you meet is English, there are few born Canadians.</p> - -<p>The streets are full of cowboys riding their -long-tailed, half-groomed bronchos at a hand -gallop, or of sulkies with the unmistakable -rancher, with shirt open at the throat, slouch -hat, and tanned face. The chief subject of conversation -is the dimensions of the ranches, the -number of head of cattle and horses on each.</p> - -<p>In the afternoon a Police team came with Mrs. -McIllree, to drive us out to see one of these -ranches. Out here anything from a single horse -to a four-in-hand is called a "team," but this was -one in our sense of the term.</p> - -<p>We galloped across a trail on the prairie, and -then wound through a "coolie," as they call the -little valleys lying in between the rolling hills, -and which are so frequent in this country. There -are hundreds of gophers popping out of their -holes, and as we see them close, sitting up with -their long bodies, they look like tiny kangaroos. -We espy coveys of prairie chickens, which are -like our grouse.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[65]</a></span></p> - -<p>As we reach the open ground there is a splendid -country spread out before us. Far as the -eye can reach, extending into the foot-hills at -the base of the Rockies, there are miles and -miles of rolling upland pastures, that resemble -our Wiltshire downs. The whole of this vast -area has been "taken up," and is a succession -of ranches. We can see the little wooden houses -with their outbuildings, scattered at long intervals. -Those innumerable specks on the downs are -the cattle and horses, literally "feeding on a -thousand hills." We are following the sweeping -bends of the Elbow river, which lies below us in -a cool green ravine, full of trees, in pleasant contrast -to the brown hills around.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[66]</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_066.jpg" width="500" height="496" alt="" title="The Ranche Pupil" /> -<div class="caption"><p>The Ranche Pupil.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The ranche we are going to belongs to Mr. -Robinson, and used to be called the Elbow Ranche, -but has lately changed its name to the Chippenham, -in accordance with the idea of calling the -ranches hereabouts after the great English hunts. -Messrs. Martin, Jameson, and Gordon-Cumming -(the latter of whom we met at the hotel with his -pet black bear), have called their ranche the Quorn. -One ranche differs not from the other, except in -degrees of comfort. They are all built of wood, -generally with verandahs, and after the simplest -model of a square house, with a door in the centre -and windows on each side. There are no trees -or shrubs, or creepers scarcely even an attempt -at a garden; a rough paling alone divides them -from the prairie. Dogs walk in and out and -are part of the family. The plains are bare. -Yet what a world of romance lingers round the -expression, "out ranching in the West." We -dream of sunrise and sunset on the open prairie, -of wild gallops in the early morning with the -dew on the grass, of camping out under the -starlight. But I trow the reality is far removed<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[67]</a></span> -from the ideal, and that it ends with a bunk in -the cowboy's hut wrapped up in a blanket, with -tough prairie beef and doughy bread for their -fare. I am sure if some fond mother could see -her darling boy in his cowboy's dress, and his -quarters in the log hut, she would never be -happy until she had him by her side again. It -is clearly a case of "where ignorance is bliss," etc. -But still, for a strong constitution there is nothing -to fear, and sobriety and industry may lead to -fortune.</p> - -<p>We look at the "corral" or wooden pen, subdivided -into partitions, where, after the animals -have been driven in, the one required is gradually -separated by being shut off in pen after pen, until -a narrow passage is reached. Here wooden -barriers are let down and he is thus confined in a -cage. They can then brand him with an iron -stamped with the mark of the ranche. If it is a -colt to be broken, they saddle, bridle and mount -him before leaving the pen. Then comes the -struggle, in which the rough rider requires great -skill, tact, and experience, for a horse will do anything -to unseat his rider the first time. Unmercifully -sharp bits are used, but the horse is guided -more by the rein on the neck. The boys ride -loosely when galloping over the prairie, leaving -the horse to look out for the holes, and he rarely -makes a mistake.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[68]</a></span></p> - -<p>The horses on this ranche are bronchos, but they -have not sufficient blood for the English market, -and, added to this, the branding detracts from their -value. They are worth about 120 dols. each. -This firing is said to be a necessity, as the -ranches are often 500 acres in extent. The -animals roam at will, with perhaps a couple of -men, living in a log hut twenty miles away from -the ranche, told off to look after them. Twice a -year they "round up;" that is, the owners meet -and appoint a place, where the cattle are driven in -and claimed by their owners, who know them by -their brands, and colts and calves are then marked. -This rounding up is done in the spring and the fall -of every year, and is beginning now. The brands -are some of them very ingenious in device. -Settlers advertise in the newspapers for lost animals, -giving their brands, which are well known to all -the country round.</p> - -<p>Does ranching pay? They tell us it can and -does, but, as in every other walk of life, hard work, -capital and experience are required. Those who -are wise, before beginning ranching on their own -account, go through a cowboy apprenticeship on -some ranche. Our driver in Calgary confided to -us "that them young men didn't do no good to -themselves out here, but they did good to the -country, for they freely spent the remittances from -home."</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[69]</a></span></p> - -<p>We came home by the Indian Sarcee Reserve. -On an open space over the river we saw some -poles placed together with a suspended hook. It -is the place where the Indians "make their braves." -In this terrible ordeal their young men have this -hook twisted into the muscles of their chests and -are drawn up by it. They must utter no cry of -pain. Indian encampments are met with all over -the prairie. You know their "topee" tents, by -the poles sticking up in the centre, in distinction -to the ordinary tents of the half-breeds. They -have numerous horses and cattle, which are -rounded up with others. They are kept by an -inspector within their reserves, and there is a large -fine for anyone selling them intoxicating drink. -They appear innocent and harmless, and only -given to paltry thieving.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[70]</a></span></p> - - - - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_IV" id="CHAPTER_IV"></a>CHAPTER IV.<br /> - -<span class="smallish">THE CANADIAN ROCKIES AND THE SELKIRKS.</span></h2> - - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_070.jpg" width="520" height="286" alt="" title="Howe Pass" /> -<div class="caption"><p>Howe Pass.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Since our arrival at Calgary we have been -manœuvring to see by what means we could escape -the start at 2 o'clock in the morning. As the -C.P.R. has only one train westward each day, -you must continue your journey at the same time -as you previously arrived. Now we have received -permission to travel by a freight train, and Mr. -Niblock, the Superintendent of the division, has -kindly lent us his private car.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[71]</a></span></p> - -<p>The freight train was due between six and seven -o'clock, and it was somewhat annoying, as we had -risen at 5 o'clock, to have to wait about the platform -at the station until nine. Early as it was, -the town was astir with sportsmen in their buggies -with their guns and dogs, off for a day's shooting -on the prairie. For this bright morning is the 1st -of September, <i>their 12th of August</i>, and there will -be massacre amongst the prairie chickens ere -nightfall. The shooting is open to all, and you -may roam over anybody's land.</p> - -<p>We can see the "Rockies" for the first time this -morning. Since we have been at Calgary the -mountains have sulked in clouds and mist, and -Calgary does not, as some people would have you -believe, lie <em>under</em> the Rockies, but fifty miles away. -In the clear morning air, they appear nearer to -us than they really are.</p> - -<p>We are soon well into the foot-hills, those grassy -rounded slopes, which are the first rising ground -from off the prairie, and which lead up to and end -in the Rocky Mountains. The blue Bow river flows -merrily in the valley; there are hundreds of -horses and cattle feeding on these river terraces, -for there are ranches lying up to and under the -foot of the Rockies.</p> - -<p>The great amphitheatre of mountains, which -has been coming nearer by leaps and bounds, is -beginning to impress us with its barren purple<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[72]</a></span> -scars, and just as we are entering among them -our guard stops the train, and takes us out to see -the Kananaskis Falls in the Bow river. We hear -their dull and distant thunder before we see the -clear mountain torrent, sliding down over ledges -of rock, forming a long white-flecked rapid, before -taking a final leap over a precipice. The conductor -then invites us to climb up into the caboose, -and scrambling up, we are perched inside the turret -of the van, where there are windows that command -the view on all sides. We share this elevated -position with the brakesman, who is ready to run -along the platform on the top of the waggons, and -turn on the brakes, for each waggon has a separate -one, connected with a wheel at the top. We subsequently -discussed whether to give this amiable -conductor a tip, but came to the conclusion that it -was superfluous, on learning from the car attendant -that his salary, calculated at three cents a -mile, gave him an income of 500<em>l.</em> a year.</p> - -<p>We are now breaking through the outer barrier -of the Rockies, and penetrating deeper into the -mountains by a valley. The railway is challenging -the monarchs, for they rise up on every side and -could so easily crush us, as we wander through the -green valley by the side of the Bow river, our -travelling comrade for many days to come. Its -waters are pale emerald green now, but later on -will be milk-blue with the melting snow and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[73]</a></span> -ground-up moraine, brought down by its mountain -tributaries.</p> - -<div class="figleft" style="width: 311px;"> -<img src="images/i_073.jpg" width="311" height="500" alt="" title="Kananaskis Falls" /> -<div class="caption"><p>Kananaskis Falls.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>We shoot "the gap," described as "two vertical walls of dizzy -height." It would be truer to say that the line turns sharply round a -projection of rock, whilst a mountain approaches from the other side. -It is a fraud! At Canmore we rest an hour. As we get out of the cars, -the intense stillness of the valley strikes us. We look up to, and are -covered by the shadows of the three well-defined slanting peaks of the -Three Sisters and the Wind mountain. When we start again the mountains -continue to increase in grandeur,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[74]</a></span> -though I think that Baroness Macdonald's rhapsodies quoted in the -Annotated Time Table, exaggerate the beauty of this part of the -Rockies. It is curious to notice the remarkable difference between the -two ranges we are passing through. Those to the left are fantastically -broken into varied shapes and forms penetrated by crevasses, full of -deep blue and purple-red shadows. Whilst the range to the right is -formed of grey and white hoary-headed peaks, and look brilliantly cold -and white, in the strong sunlight.</p> - -<div class="figright" style="width: 230px;"> -<img src="images/i_074.jpg" width="230" height="450" alt="" title="Cascade Mountain" /> -<div class="caption"><p>Cascade Mountain.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>We approach the Cascade Mountain. "This enormous mass seems to -advance towards us and meet us." It entirely blocks our further -progress, and the train seems to be going to travel up it. We appear to -touch it, but in reality it is many miles away. This Cascade Mountain -gives you more idea than anything else of the colossal proportion of -the mountains, which<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[75]</a></span> -you lose by proximity, and by their uniformly large scale. It also -shows you the deception caused by the clearness of the atmosphere. -For the silver cascade which we see falling down its side is ten feet -across, and yet it looks like a thread of cotton. The mountain we -could well-nigh touch is five miles or more away. It is a striking -sensation.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 285px;"> -<img src="images/i_075.jpg" width="285" height="400" alt="" title="Cascade Mountain, Banff" /> -<div class="caption"><p>Cascade Mountain, Banff.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Another half-hour and we reach Banff. As a whole, I think this part -of the scenery disappointing, but people talk so much about it, because -it is their first experience of the mountains, coming as it does too -after a thousand miles of prairie.</p> - -<p>We are hot and tired after our -journey, and have long to wait for "the rig," which -is repeatedly telephoned for. When it does appear -it is drawn by a vicious roan, fresh from a ranche, -which shies and bolts in a terrifying way. There -are two miles of a badish road, which we do not -see for the clouds of dust that accompany us. This -dust is the drawback to Banff. The mountains<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[76]</a></span> -have not come up to our expectations. Will it -be so also with Banff? To-morrow will show.</p> - -<p><em>Wednesday, September 2nd.</em>—A day to be remembered. -A day of complete satisfaction.</p> - -<p>Cradled in the stillness of the mountains, closed -in by them in solemnity and darkness, the babble -of the Bow River joining its waters with the Spray, -we fell asleep. This morning, the sun of a most -perfect day awakes us, and the sound of the rushing -waters is the first to greet our ears. My windows -form two sides of the room, and I dress with the -sun streaming in at the one and the breeze at the -other, and a panorama of mountains seen from -them both. The air is exhilarating to intoxication; -the atmosphere intensely clear. We do nothing -all day, we live in the companionship of the mountains.</p> - -<p>We have been with them in the early morning, -when the pale-rose tints, the opalescent blue, the -delicate pearl-grey, lay lightly on their rugged -summits, and made them seem so near and tender. -We have seen them in the heat of noon, looking -strong and hard, with black shadows in the crevasses -and their great stony veins and muscles -standing out in relief in the sunshine. They seem -full of manhood, defiant, and self-sufficient. We -have watched these same mountains in the glamour -of declining days, soften again as the shadows -steal up the pine woods, leaving patches of sunlight.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[77]</a></span> -One side of the valley is in gloom, whilst -the other is bathed in golden light. Their grey -peaks stand out as if cut with a sharp-edged knife -against the even paleness of the sky. A few fir -trees at their summit look like green needle-points, -and the trail of pines climbing up the mountain, -like soldiers marching in single file trying to scale -the fortress heights.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_077.jpg" width="560" height="357" alt="" title="Birds eye view of Banff from Tunnel Mtn" /> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Birds eye view of Banff from Tunnel Mtn</span>.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>In the centre of the valley, there are two great -mountains, and as I write they are becoming -wrapped in purple-blue gloom, with sable shadows -in their granite sides, and whilst the valley is in -darkness, the peaks are still bright with the last -gleams of fading daylight. Behind this mountain -again, there are three acute peaks, which stand -from behind its dark shoulder, and they are rosy-red -with an Alpine after-glow.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[78]</a></span></p> - -<p>As we sit out after dinner in the gloaming, the -mountains are still dimly visible. They have lost -their individuality, and their soft full outlines are -limned against the luminous sky. Stars rise from -behind them; there is one of intense brightness, -and several shooting ones make a bright pathway -across the mountains.</p> - -<p>There are mountains of every description at -Banff. It is this variety that gives such charm -to the place. Some are entirely clothed with -pines, others partly so, with barren summits. -Others again are nothing but rock and granite from -base to summit, from earth <em>almost</em> to heaven, and -down their sides there are marked deep slides, -where the rock and limestone has crumbled into an -avalanche of stone and dust. The changes on -their unchanging surfaces are the most beautiful. -Like human nature, hard on the surface, they have -hidden soft and susceptible moods. The pine-clad -mountains are sunnier and more pleasing, but -it is those of adamantine rock that fascinate you.</p> - -<p>They say that no view is perfect without water. -The Bow River here gives the poetry of motion, -and makes music to echo against the hills. It has -the most perfect miniature falls I ever saw. They -are pretty, yet not tame; they are noisy, yet not -thundering; they murmur and quarrel without producing -soul-agonizing sounds. They charm, but -do not exercise the dangerous fascination of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[79]</a></span> -Niagara. Their water is creamy blue in the sunlight, -and cerulean in the shadow of the ravine, -down which in bars and trails of foam it rushes, -until it throws itself over the fall, in a snow-white -cloud, flecking the rocks on the banks with -froth.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_079.jpg" width="500" height="399" alt="" title="Bow Valley" /> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Bow Valley</span>.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>All the mountains have names—such as the -Twin Brothers, the Sentinel, the Devil's head; but -these names are meaningless. You know and -grow to love each by its own individual characteristic. -The hotel in their midst scarcely mars the -scene, for it is a picturesque structure perched on -a natural platform, built of yellow wood, and with<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[80]</a></span> -a roof of warm red shingles, and green trellises to -cover the foundations. Its situation is so perfect -that you scarcely improve your view, or want to -drive about the valleys. You may, perhaps, come -a little nearer to the mountains, or see their -reverse sides. There is one, however, the Twin -Brethren, which gains by coming near to it, -because you can stand absolutely under a mammoth -rampart of granite, shot straight into mid -air, horizontally upward. It strikes fear into you -as you gaze up to it, and as with these mountains -comparison is the only thing which gives you -even the remotest idea of their superb size, a -great rock, as big as a small hill in itself, broke -off some years ago and lies on the ground, amid -smaller stones, as we ought to call them, but -which are really large rocks. We can trace the -exact place where it cracked away from the -symmetry of rock, leaving an unseemly cavity -and a long moraine of <i xml:lang="fr" lang="fr">dbris</i>. The air is so dry -that everything is like tinder. Forest fires are -frequent, and we mark their track up the mountain -sides and see the smoke of one or two. A few -mutilated trees are all that are left of the magnificent -primeval forest, and the pines we see are -a second and third growth.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_080.jpg" width="550" height="370" alt="" title="BANFF SPRINGS HOTEL, CANADIAN NATIONAL PARK" /> -<div class="caption"><p>BANFF SPRINGS HOTEL, CANADIAN NATIONAL PARK.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Though the mountains stand around so silent -and stately, there is a great unrest beneath them. -A volcano burns below, which may break forth -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[81]</a></span>at any time, for Banff has several hot mineral -pools and springs, sure indication that the earth -here is only an upper crust, with hell-fire beneath.</p> - -<p>The temperature of these springs is 127 degrees -Fahrenheit, and there are baths for the outer man, -and taps of water for the inner.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_081.jpg" width="400" height="444" alt="" title="The Pool. Hot Springs, Banff" /> -<div class="caption"><p>The Pool. Hot Springs, -Banff.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><em>Thursday, September 3rd.</em>—A day of blankest disappointment. -A cruel change from yesterday. From early morning the mountains have -been blurred and blotted out by an impenetrable haze of smoke. The sun, -though ready to give us all it did yesterday, has not shone, and has -been only a fiery ball suspended in the air. It is caused by a forest -fire raging destruction, it may be, many miles from here, but the -smoke, from the smouldering, spreads and hangs like a curtain, lasting -often for many days. We canoed up the Bow River to the pretty Vermilion -Lakes.</p> - -<p><em>Friday, September 4th.</em>—I could not resist a -peep out of my window at four o'clock. The -outlook was more promising I thought, and went -back to bed cheered. We left the hotel at six.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[82]</a></span> -Cold despair settled on us all, for the mountains -loomed gloomily through a colourless haze. Exceedingly -cold and depressed, we huddled into -the sheltered corner of the Observation Car, a car -for the view, open on all sides. I had heard so -much of the magnificent scenery that I had -looked forward keenly to this crossing of the -Rockies, and it seemed I was to be disappointed. -After all, it is only like the disappointments you -meet with in life, as, nine times out of ten, the -thing most wished for, is a disillusionment when it -comes.</p> - -<p>Range after range of mountains is unfolding -before us. They approach: we pass immediately -under them, and they recede, only to give place to -others as grand and massive. All are of solid -rock, colossal masonry piled up to magnificent -proportions, their zeniths crowned with pinnacles -and spires, with square and round and pointed -towers. In one place you distinctly see the steps -leading up to a broken column. The most impressive -one is Castle Mountain, though the isolated -helmet-shaped peak of Lefroy, 11,200 feet, is the -loftiest. This mountain stands in solitary majesty -by itself in the valley. There is no ascending or -descending range near it. You can see the battlements, -with their loop-holes regularly jagged out at -the summit of the bastions, and a tower at either -end. They are faintly yet clearly discernible. It<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[83]</a></span> -is truly a Giant's Keep, and I think the finest -mountain in the range, though they are all so -sublime and grand in this wonderful valley that it -is scarcely fair to discriminate. Running concurrently -with the track is our dear old friend, the -Bow. We have lived continuously with it for three -days, and feel quite friendly towards it.</p> - -<p>Soon we see the beginning of the glacier range, -and feel the awe inspired by those eternal ice-bound -regions where winter reigns for ever, and -none can live, and where even nature cannot -vegetate. The glaciers lie frozen on to their -surface, finding foothold in a crevasse or basin, -hollowed out probably by their own action. -Under one of these glaciers lie the Trinity of -Lakes, called the Lonely Lakes of the Rocky -Mountains, one beneath the other, with Lake -Agnes touched by the glacier. At Laggan we -have a heavier engine attached, and extra bolts -and brakes screwed on.</p> - -<p>We begin the ascent of the Rockies; the crossing -of the Great Divide. It is gradual and not -nearly such a dramatic incident as the crossing of -the Great Divide of the Americans. In fact, the -gradients are so gently engineered that, though -the engine makes a great noise about it, you -scarcely believe you have reached the top, and -are looking for something more exciting when you -see the wooden arch at the summit, on which is<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[84]</a></span> -inscribed "The Great Divide." In this case it -alludes mockingly to the tiny stream which here -divides and flows towards the Atlantic on one side, -and the Pacific on the other. There is here a deep -green lake, called Summit Lake.</p> - -<p>We begin the descent by a succession of perfectly -equal curves that incline first to the right -and then to the left, bearing us downwards all the -time. And now comes what is by far the most -memorable scene in the Rockies. It is deeply -impressive, and is only too swiftly passed. It is -called the Kicking Horse Pass. We must turn -for a moment from the sublime to the ridiculous -for the origin of this name. When the party of -surveyors reached the summit of the pass a white -pony kicked off its pack. This gave it the name, -which will now always cling to it. We cross the -Wapta river on to its left side, and plunge wildly, -recklessly, into a deep gorge. Deeper and deeper -we rush down into the canyon, darker and more -impressive the situation becomes as we cling to -the mountain side, whilst the river tears down yet -deeper than us, until it appears a caldron of foaming -silver in the gloom at the bottom of the gorge. -And, look, up on one side is a perpendicular -mountain of which, so far down are we, we cannot -see the summit; on the other, there are those -supremely graceful spires of Cathedral Mount, -pointing with silent finger to the sky. If you look<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[85]</a></span> -down into that immensity of depth, and then up -as far as the eye can reach, this is what you see. -First, the silver river gleaming in its black channel; -on a level and opposite to you a bank of bright -green moss and ferns and tangled growth; then -tiers and tiers of pine trees wending skywards, -until they reach the base of the rock, whence -spring those airy towers. The great Duomo -head of Mount Stephen beyond forms a superb -dome to these sentinel spires that are so light and -gracefully poised in such close proximity to -heaven. Straight, in front, and shutting in this -marvellous gorge, is the angular peak of Mount -Field. Just past the summit there are a number -of graves of men who died of mountain fever, -which broke out whilst they were making the line.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_085.jpg" width="374" height="560" alt="" title="MOUNT STEPHEN, THE KING OF THE CANADIAN ROCKIES" /> -<div class="caption"><p>MOUNT STEPHEN, THE KING OF THE CANADIAN ROCKIES.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Mount Stephen, called after the first President -of the Railway, Lord Mount-Stephen, absorbs our -attention next. It is certainly the most superb -mountain of the Rockies. On its "swelling -shoulder" is seen a shining green glacier, "which -is slowly pressing forward and over a vertical cliff -of great height." The cyclopean masses of rock -are richly veined in red and purple. As the train -humbly creeps round the base, the summit is -entirely lost to us. Opposite are the swelling -mountains of the Van Horne range; they touch -the muddy, shingly bed of a river.</p> - -<p>We breakfast at the pretty hotel at Field, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[86]</a></span> -feel disgusted that the claims of nature must be -satisfied, whilst Mount Stephen in its glorious -might and strength, and its limitless surface of -adamantine rock, raises its hoary zenith immediately -above us. We made the greatest mistake -in not staying a day here, and, by ascending -a neighbouring mountain, being still more impressed -with its colossal proportions.</p> - -<p>On leaving Field, we travel between the "orderly -array of peaks of the two ranges of Otter-Tail and -the Beaver Foots."</p> - -<p>At Palliser, the driver allows us to ride on the -engine through the Second Kicking Horse Pass. -It runs madly down into growing darkness, closer -and higher the mountains draw. The boiling -river disputes the narrow chasm with us, and it is -a hand-to-hand struggle in which the line has -frequently to give up to the river, and to cross -over from side to side to gain a footing. The -engine tears wildly down hill, reeling round the -sharp curves at an angle of 20, with the train -doubling itself. You cannot hear yourself speak -for the noise of the foaming river and the panting -of the engine. As we plunge into the dread darkness -of a tunnel, the engine whistles, and the echo -is dying, dying, dead, to us—as we are lost in -blackness. It is wonderful to see the driver -control this huge, puffing, black monster by a -gentle pressure on two valve handles, which it<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[87]</a></span> -resents with an indignant snort. We emerge into -light and space again at Golden. We come -suddenly back to a commonplace life, as represented -by this wooden mining village. It is farewell -to the Rockies.</p> - -<p>I think most people have an idea that the -engineering feats of the Pacific Railway were performed -in the crossing of the Rockies. They do -not realize, any more than we did, that we have -another and far more difficult range to surmount, -before reaching the Pacific coast. The Selkirk -range is more beautiful and grander. It has more -snow and glacier peaks than the Rockies.</p> - -<p>We are in a green valley, with the Selkirks dimly -seen to the left, whilst the Rockies are diminishing -to a low range to the right, and we have found a -new river in the broad Columbia. We are reminded -that we have crossed the Great Dividing -Watershed, for this river is running the opposite -way down to the ocean.</p> - -<p>It is but a short breathing space, for almost at -once the mountains close together, and we are in -another of those lovely gorges, each one of which, -would make famous any railway. Through a perfectly -formed natural gateway of rock, so narrow that -it can be crossed by a slender sapling, the tempestuous -waters of the Beaver River hurry to join the -Columbia. This is a smiling little valley, full of -blue-green pines, mingling with the tender greens<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[88]</a></span> -of young poplars, and the yellow moss and lichens -covering the rocks. From this valley we pass into -the heart of the Selkirks.</p> - -<p>We have become accustomed to the line climbing -up the mountain side, and we can tell how rapidly -we are now doing this by the dwindling of the -Beaver River, by whose side we were a minute -ago, and which is now far away down in the valley. -Its pale green waters trace out the most perfect -curves of the letter S, and flow in a park with pine -woods. And it is all so far away—down, down—and -would be such a terrific fall. Immediately opposite -to us are the mountains, and we are equal to about -half way up them, and through the haze they -appear to us so very near, and so very large. The -panorama is magnificent; the detailed picture is -impressive, when, from gazing down boundless -depths, the eye is lifted through miles of pine -forests, up to grey crags, too high for vegetation.</p> - -<p>Growing by the side of the line there are gigantic -pines, Douglas fir and cedar. They are so -straight, without curve, or be knot, that one -cannot help thinking what splendid masts they -would make for some big ship. Many of their -tops are on a level with us, whilst, by peering -down, we can with difficulty see their roots. But -like all these Canadian forests, the finest trees are -dismembered or mutilated by burning, and their<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[89]</a></span> -graceful, fringe-like foliage is often brown and -singed.</p> - -<p>The railway is now going to cross several deep -gullies on wooden trestle-bridges. These bridges -appear frail and weak for the purpose, the valleys -being deep, and the trains so heavy. They creak -and groan ominously as the train passes on them. -Water-butts and a watcher are stationed on them, -in case of fire from a spark of the engine. The -Stony Creek Bridge, over a sleep V-shaped valley, -is one of the loftiest railway bridges in the world; -hundreds of square yards of timber were used in its -construction, and it rests on three piers, 295 feet -above the ravine. We have enchanting peeps up -these bright green gullies, with their noisy rills -jumping and scrambling down anyhow, so long as -they reach the bottom of the valley, and we rush -to one side of the car to be pleased by this, and -then to the other, to be frightened by gazing into -space.</p> - -<p>Roger's Pass, the culminating beauty of the -Selkirks—named after the engineer—is approaching. -There are two mountains, Mount Macdonald -and Mount Hermit, but they are so mighty, that -if you have not seen them you have no chance of -picturing them to yourself. To give you some -idea of their colossal proportions, Mount Macdonald -is one mile and a quarter in a vertical line -above the railway. The bottom is a stone's throw<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[90]</a></span> -from the car. Mount Hermit is equal in size on -the other side. These mountains were united, but -some great convulsion of nature has split them -apart. This is a moment in your existence, and -you would give much to prolong it; the scene is -indescribable. The other mountains of this pass -are covered with snow, and seven or eight thousand -feet above us are many glistening glaciers, pure as -crystal.</p> - -<p>It is sad that this part of the line is spoilt by -the snow-sheds, constructed of massive timber, and -into which we are shot and blinded with smoke -and coal grit, emerging frequently to get glimpses -of these wonderful mountains, with their pale-blue -and green glaciers hanging above us,—glimpses -which are imprinted on the memory for -long, as we shoot into another of these exasperating -snow-sheds. It is ungrateful to grumble at -them, for the difficulties of this part of the line, -with snow in winter, are enormous, and we -must always bear in mind that were it not for -the enterprise of the Company we should not -at this moment be sitting comfortably in a car, -passing through the finest scenery in the world. -There may be grander, but it has yet to be discovered.</p> - -<p>Emerging from Roger's Pass, by a deep bend -on the mountain side, we have a sudden transition -into the fir-clad valley of the Illicilliwaet, the river<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[91]</a></span> -of this name far below, and for many miles seeking -the bottom of the valley, the railway doing -likewise. Straight ahead the white ghost of the -great glacier of the Selkirks.</p> - -<p>We left the train here, and stayed at the pretty -Swiss chalet of the Glacier house. It lies half-way -up the valley and under the glacier, with the -hoary peak of Sir Donald frowning down on it.</p> - -<p>The afternoon had cleared up, there was even a -gleam of sunshine, and the first thing to do was to -walk up to the Glacier, through a beautiful pine -forest, whose interlacing branches are covered -with hanging trails of white moss, resembling an -old man's beard. The ground is soft, and covered -with a bright-brown saw-dust from the decaying -trunks that lie around. We cross the path of a -mighty avalanche, which, sweeping down from a -mountain below Sir Donald, hurled itself across -the valley, huge rocks, trunks of trees and <i xml:lang="fr" lang="fr">dbris</i> -being piled across the pathway. The green -moraine on the mountain shows how soon nature -recoups herself. There are wild gooseberry and -currant bushes, and we eat plentifully of wild -raspberries and blueberries.</p> - -<p>As you stand under the Glacier, you see that it -has filled in the side between two mountains, and -the white rounded outline at the summit is exquisitely -pure. It is where it joins the crumbling -moraine that it is most beautiful, because here<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[92]</a></span> -there are caves of intense blue, of pale green, and of -that indescribable opaque aquamarine, only seen in -perfection in the horseshoe bend at Niagara. From -these ice caverns, from under the glacier, torrents -of water are always pouring forth. It is the echo -from the mountains, that makes such a little -volume of water cause such a roaring, rushing -sound. Looking down in proud cold sadness on -the glacier, is the blue-grey peak of Sir Donald. -It is such a cold, unsympathetic peak, rearing its -barren head so proudly above its compatriots. -Facing homewards, there is that other snow-capped -range, with Ross peak and an immense -glacier on its shoulder. They are fields of ice and -snow untrodden by the foot of man, and covered -with eternal snows. As you look round this perfect -valley, you are so shut out from the world, that -you wonder how you ever entered it. The two -iron bands at the platform by the hotel form the -only link beyond those impassable walls.</p> - -<p>A gentle gloom settles down over the valley. -We stroll about after dinner, amidst the deathlike -stillness of the mountains, broken only by the -murmuring from out the darkness of the ice -stream. Looming closely above us, overhanging -as if it would slide down, is the dead and white -ghost of the glacier. We sleep under its shadow.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_092.jpg" width="560" height="364" alt="" title="GREAT GLACIER, CANADIAN ROCKIES" /> -<div class="caption"><p>GREAT GLACIER, CANADIAN ROCKIES.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The glorious morning sunshine is touching Sir -Donald and the snow peaks, whilst the valley we<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[93]</a></span> -are in lies so deep down, that it is still in shadow. -The pleasure of awakening in such glorious surroundings -makes us feel the pleasure of living.</p> - -<p>We spend the morning in climbing a mountain -to Mirror Lake, winding up and up in the shade -Of the red-stemmed cedars, and at each precipitous -curve, the snow-sheets on the line dwindle, and we -seem to get more on a level with the surrounding -mountains. The Ross Peak and Range look -specially beautiful to-day. The crevasses are so -strongly marked with blue shadows, the peaks are -such a soft silver grey, and in the very bosom of -Mount Ross is the virgin snow of a pure glacier, -fit house for the Ice Maiden. I have never any -wish to explore mountains such as these. There is -a feeling that we desecrate them by trying to come -nearer to them, and that nature never meant us to -know them, except from below, and then only -with admiration akin to awe. I like to feel that -their summits are untrodden by human foot, that -they have been so for ages, and will continue so -until the end of time.</p> - -<p>On descending, we were glad to find we had -two more hours at Glacier, the west-bound train -being late.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[94]</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_094.jpg" width="415" height="500" alt="" title="The Loops" /> -<div class="caption"><p>The Loops.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Directly the train leaves Glacier it begins to -drop down into the valley below, by leaps and -bounds, so quickly do we run from side to side of -the valley by "the Loops." These Loops describe -circles across the valley, and first we face and -touch the base of the Ross Peak, then return, by -doubling back a mile or more, until we lie under -the Glacier House. We describe yet one more -loop, and then the train shoots head-foremost into<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[95]</a></span> -the valley. Looking back and marvelling how -the train can possibly mount up this deep pine-filled -ravine, you see the great gashes cut across it -by the railway embankment. We are rushing -downwards at great speed, but not at greater -speed than the Illicilliwaet River, which races us. It -foams and gushes as we steam and whistle, and so -we go down the gorge together, until we are deep -in the gloom of its cold shades. We thunder -through snow-sheds and over delicate trestle-bridges -until we are buried in the Albert Canyon. -Here we get out to see the Illicilliwaet compressed -into a rocky defile of inky depth and blackness. -It foams with anger. We pass other and similar -canyons, and so on for another hour, with ever -varying and beautiful scenery.</p> - -<p>Then a change creeps over the mountains, they -are all round on their summits and mostly covered -entirely with dense fir forests. There are no more -rock and ice-bound peaks. They are opening out -a little. Now, as we get lower down, we begin to -see some specimens of those splendid fir trees, for -which British Columbia is famous. Again, these -dreadful forest fires have ravaged them. The river -and railway have descended the valley together, -and continue side by side on the plain, until at -length the last curve is rounded, and we run into -Revelstoke. As we walk on the platform we feel -such a difference in the temperature. The Pacific<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[96]</a></span> -air is so soft and warm after the keen dryness of -the mountain atmosphere. We meet the Columbia -River again after a day's absence. It has been -flowing round the northern extremity of the -Selkirks, whilst we have been crossing their summit, -and has grown into a navigable river. The -observation car is taken off, sure sign that the -crossing of the Selkirks is a thing of the past.</p> - -<p>Before finishing with this part of our travels, I -should recommend anyone to profit by our -experience, and to stay one day at Field, and to -allow of sufficient time for two days at Glacier, as -I think anyone would consider it quite worth while -to take a freight train back to Golden, returning a -second time over the Selkirks by the next day's -train. There is a great want (which is, I believe, -in process of being supplied) of a detailed guidebook, -and by next year doubtless the increased -traffic will warrant an additional train a day.</p> - -<p>We think that we have seen the last of the -mountains, but a few minutes after leaving Revelstoke, -and crossing the Columbia, we are entering -the Gold Range.</p> - -<p>It is getting dusk, we are satiated with mountains, -and I am as weary of writing about them -as you, forbearing reader, of reading these descriptions. -Night comes to relieve us both. One -is glad, however, to think that this Gold Range -"seems to have been provided by nature for the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[97]</a></span> -railway, in compensation perhaps for the enormous difficulties that had -to be overcome in the Rockies and Selkirks." At Craigellachie the last -spike of the Canadian Pacific Line was driven on November 7th, 1885. -With what rejoicings and triumph the surveyors and engineers must have -seen the finish of their long and desperate struggle. We pass through -a forest fire this night, and see isolated trunks smouldering like -fiery cones, whilst others in falling send out a shower of sparks, that -kindle fresh flames in many places.</p> - -<div class="figleft"> -<img src="images/i_097.jpg" width="450" height="490" alt="" title="Frazer Caon above Spuzzum." /> -</div> - -<p>We awake the next morning in the Fraser -Canyon, and are going through magnificent scenery<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[98]</a></span> -for many hours. We hang over the side of the canyon, and look down on -the waters swirling and rushing at our feet, whilst over and over again -the rocks seem to bar our progress, and we either rush into a tunnel, -or creep round them on ledges of rock with the help of trestle-bridges. -Breakfast at North Bend, like everything that the C.P.R. does, is -excellent, for when they are not able to run a dining car over the -mountains, they provide excellent meals at hotels, such as this, and -those at Field and Glacier, all of which are run by the company.</p> - -<div class="figright"> -<img src="images/i_098.jpg" width="298" height="400" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p>We fly over the fertile plains of Columbia, and run on to Burrard's -Inlet by Port Moody. This is the beginning of the sea,—so soon to -be our home for some time. We see much lumber lying about<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[99]</a></span> -the low wooded banks opposite, and floating -by the shore. We turn a corner, run quickly by -the railway workshops, and amidst clouds of dust -reach Vancouver. It is a great comfort to wash, -unpack, and to settle down for two quiet days.</p> - -<div class="figleft"> -<img src="images/i_098a.jpg" width="342" height="400" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p>"And what do you think of our city?" is the -question addressed to all newcomers by the residents -of Vancouver. This question is the invariable -opening to a conversation, we have noticed, by -the residents of all new cities. In this case it is -very pardonable, as five years ago the site of -Vancouver was a smoking plain. A fire had swept -away the newly-risen city. As soon as it was -known that the C.P.R. intended Vancouver to be -the terminus to their 3000 miles of railway, building -recommenced with renewed vigour. Like -everyone else, we are astonished by the number of -streets and handsome stone buildings. The vacant -building sites that we see amongst them, are the -object of much booming and land speculation. -Cordova is now the principal street, but, as it is -low down on the wharf, at no distant date it will -probably be abandoned to offices and wholesale -warehouses, whilst Hastings Street, on the block -higher up, will be the fashionable avenue. Real -Estate offices abound in Vancouver, and everyone -appears to dabble more or less in land speculation. -Newcomers are always bitten, and up to the moment -of sailing we hesitated (but finally rejected) about<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[100]</a></span> -becoming possessors of a corner block in Cordova -Street. There have been many successful speculations -and large sums made in an incredibly -short space of time. Ten per cent. is what everybody -expects on their investments. Opinions are -still divided as to whether Vancouver really has -so great a future before it. Some say it is already -over-built.</p> - -<p>The harbour of Vancouver is thought sufficiently -beautiful to be compared to that of Sydney. It -is a perfect site for a city, with the wooded ranges -of mountains rising on the further shore of the -harbour, though it was not until sunset of the -second day of our arrival, that the clouds rolled -away sufficiently for us to see them. The two -peaks, called the Lions, are wonderfully faithful -outlines of the lions in Trafalgar Square. The -Indian Mission village lying under the mountains, -looks clean and bright.</p> - -<p>Vancouver has a beautiful park. We drove -eight miles round one afternoon and were -delighted with it. It is the virgin forest preserved -in its natural forest glades, with magnificent -Douglas firs, spruce, white pine, cypress, aspen -poplar, mountain ash, and giant cedar, whilst -bracken ferns and moss grow luxuriantly on the -decaying trunks. The road is traced by the side -of the sea and English Bay, and the smell of the -salt water mingles with the fragrance of the pines<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[101]</a></span> -and cedars. Some of these pines are colossal in -girth and height, though not equal to the big trees -of the Yosemite. The cedars are great in circumference, -but not of such height, and the finest -specimens are sadly mutilated by lightning.</p> - -<p>The seeds of eternal enmity were sown between -Vancouver and Victoria when the former became -the port of the railway. This animosity is carried -to great extremes. A Victoria man will not ensure -his life in a Vancouver office. Sarah Bernhardt -is coming here next week, but because she refused -the Victorians' offer of $1000 more, Victoria has -determined to boycott the performance at Vancouver, -and make it a failure. Their childish -jealousy may be likened to that between Melbourne -and Sydney, and Toronto and Montreal. -We are sorry not to have time to go to Victoria. I -believe it is very pretty, for everybody out here -has said: "Oh! you must see Victoria, it is so -pretty, and so <em>very</em> English." This, abroad, is not -precisely a recommendation in our eyes.</p> - -<p>Our last afternoon in Vancouver, we went across -to Burrard's Inlet, to see the Moodyville Saw -Mills. The enormous trunks are raised, attached -to hooks, by a pulley out of the water on one side, -passed under a saw whose two wheels whirl through -and cut up the timber in a few minutes. It is sawn -into three planks by another machine, laid on -rollers, passed down on the other side of the mill<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[102]</a></span> -and shipped into the steamer loading at the wharf. -In three minutes a tree that has taken 300 years to -grow (you can reckon its age, if you have patience, -in the concentric rings on the trunk), will be sawn -up; in fifteen minutes it will be cut, planed and -shipped. The trees we saw operated on were -chiefly Oregon pines.</p> - -<p>Before leaving Canadian soil, there are several -things to mention, which we have observed in -travelling across the continent. Canada is in -many ways quite as much American as English. -They have the American system at hotels of making -a fixed and inclusive charge of from three to four -dollars per day. They also have the varied <i xml:lang="fr" lang="fr">mnu</i>, -which I counted at one hotel to include fifty items. -True, Oolong, Ceylon, besides English breakfast, -tea, and fancy bread of all sorts, is put down to -swell the items. Still we have often wished that -the assortment of food was smaller, but better -served. The Canadians use as much ice water, -and consume as largely of fruit at all meals, as -the Americans. Carriages are as expensive as -in America, the reason being that tramways -and electric cars are universally used as means -of locomotion. Their railway system of drawing-room -cars, sleepers, and dining cars are identical. -Nor can their mode of speech be wholly excepted, -for true born and bred Canadian often speaks -with an equally pronounced accent as any<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[103]</a></span> -American, and makes use of many of their expressions, -such as "on such a street, a dry-goods -store," etc.</p> - -<p>In the universal and domestic use of electric -light, Canada, like America, is twenty years ahead -of us. Each little city has it, but then this is a -new country and there are no great monopolies as -in England to be considered. It is the same -with the telephone. All public buildings, offices, -shops, and almost every private house in a city -has its telephone. A great amount of business is -transacted through it, and ladies use it for their -daily orders to tradesmen. The convenience is -great, but the incessant tinkling of the bell invades -the sanctity of home, viz. privacy. A lady recently -arrived from England rightly called it "the -scourge of the country."</p> - -<p>As in America, domestic servants are scarcely -obtainable. I found most Canadian ladies thought -themselves lucky with one servant, and in luxury -with two. A nurse is an unknown necessity to -many mothers, who tend their children entirely. -This accounts for the number of children travelling -(we counted nineteen in two cars on one journey) -and in hotels. There is no one to leave them with -at home. If unavoidable, they are none the less -a noisy nuisance.</p> - -<p>Canada, if she is to be developed, requires -a better line of steamers than the Allan to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[104]</a></span> -compete in speed and luxury with the great New -York liners. She must be populated, and so long -as the White Star and other lines offer such far -superior accommodation for the same rates (four -pounds) so long will the emigrants select that route. -Every trip the 1000 emigrants landed at New -York, are 1000 able-bodied English, Scotch, or -Irish men lost to Canada. A strong government -should initiate a large immigration scheme, vote a -handsome subsidy and ask the Imperial Government -to contribute a similar one. As we have -travelled from the Atlantic to the Pacific, we have -passed through thousands of miles abounding in -natural resources, of mineral wealth and lumber, -lying in their primeval state, undeveloped and unpopulated, -whilst her rivals across the border are -increasing rapidly the wealth and prosperity of -their country by a free immigration, only wisely -refusing to be made, like England, the "dumping" -ground for the paupers of other nations.</p> - -<p>Canada languishes for the want of population -and capital. Give them to her, and she will -become the finest country in the world, and our -most prosperous as well as most loyal colony—British -to the heart.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[105]</a></span></p> - - - - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_V" id="CHAPTER_V"></a>CHAPTER V.<br /> - -<span class="smallish">TO THE LAND OF THE RISING SUN.</span></h2> - - -<p>On Wednesday, September 9th, 1891, we embarked -on board the Pacific s.s. <em>Empress of Japan</em>. We -congratulate ourselves upon having a roomy cabin -exactly amidships on the main deck, and the unprecedented -luxury of two drawers and two cupboards. -Otherwise our voyage does not promise -well. The C.P.R. thoroughly understands its -opportunities, and their putting on three new -steamships, the <em>Empresses of Japan</em>, <em>India</em>, and -<em>China</em>, is justified by the large number of saloon -passengers. Thirty passengers have been their -average up to the last voyage, when it was sixty, -and this time it is 130. We hope that the -resources of the ship will not break down under -this strain, but consider it doubtful. The stewards -are all Chinese, and excellent they appear, especially -our table steward, who boasted the aristocratic -name of "Guy."</p> - -<p>It was a miserable day, the rain coming down in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[106]</a></span> -torrents, and under the wet awnings we dawdled -about until the mails, five hours late, arrived. At -six o'clock we left the wharf and went "forward" to -see this ship of 4000 tons pass through the confined -channel of "The Narrows." We could almost have -touched the overhanging branches of the trees in -the park, so closely did the ship hug the bank. At -midnight we stopped opposite to Victoria to take -on board some more passengers. They were in a -sorry plight, for they had been sitting on an open -barge in pitch darkness, and in pouring rain, for -six hours.</p> - -<p>The next day was cold, gloomy, and rough. -Scarcely a soul but was sick and sorry. The -usual whale excited but a feeble interest along the -row of deck chairs, occupied by people in varying -stages of <em>malaise</em>. We must expect bad weather. -In truth we had a miserably cold cheerless voyage -across this Northern Pacific Ocean, and it was such -a contrast to our bright and sunny passage across -the South Pacific, from San Francisco to Auckand, -six years ago. The ship takes a northerly -course until we get to the mouth of the Behring -Sea. Here we had a miserable Sunday. Such an -angry grey sea, crested with white horses, seething -and boiling around us. It was abominably rough. -Everybody was sea-sick again, and, to complete -the tale of woe, there was a dense sea-fog, the -decks dripping with this clammy moisture and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[107]</a></span> -from the spray, as the <em>Empress's</em> nose was buried -in the ocean's waves and, quivering from stem to -stern, she rose and shook herself. The discordant -shriek of the fog-horn was heard all day. Everybody -agrees that life on board ship is bearable -if you can be on deck, some even may go so far -as to enjoy it, though I cannot say that we belong -to that number, but when, as on this occasion, -that refuge was denied to us, we were indeed -miserable. We had service in the saloon, the -little remnant able to appear, and all joined in those -familiar prayers, that seem to bind us together -on the stormy ocean as "one family in heaven -and earth." The Bishop of Exeter, who, with -his son, the Bishop of Japan, is on board, preached -the sermon. Weary of being knocked about at -the mercy of the waves, there was not a soul on -board but was thankful when night came, and -we sought such rest as we could find in our berths.</p> - -<p>We shall have a Wednesday missing all our -lives, that of Wednesday, September 17th, and -we have lost a whole day, besides sundry and -many half-hours by the putting back of the ship's -clock. We are now just half-way round the -world from the Greenwich meridian.</p> - -<p>The next day we saw one island of the Aleutian -group, and the "early birds" saw a snow-cone on -it. These islands extend for many miles at the -entrance to the Behring Sea, and we discover that<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[108]</a></span> -in the event of a shipwreck our boats have orders to -steer for this island. There are a number of missionaries, -from thirty to forty, on board, who, with -their wives and numerous families are bound for -China. Some of them are very intolerant, as was -shown when the officers got up a dance, and there -was some question as to where the piano would -come from: "Oh!" said one, "the devil will be -sure to provide that."</p> - -<p>The last two days we experience a sudden -change from the intense cold. We awake one -morning to find a tropical downpour, accompanied -by a damp heat that enervates everybody, and -this is accompanied by the tail end of a typhoon, -and a grand sea. All ports are closed, the heat -below is terrific, and the ship labours and rolls -heavily. And thus ends a most disagreeable and -lonely voyage, for we have not seen a single sail -since leaving Vancouver.</p> - -<p>There is no sensation in the world more -delightful than landing in a new country, and -especially when it is in such a different corner of -the world as Japan.</p> - -<p>Our expectations are vague and enthusiastic, -but, alas! the approach to Yokohama through -the beautiful channel of islands is lost to us. We -are on deck at 5 a.m., only to see the lights of -the numerous lighthouses on the coast extinguished, -and then blotted out in blinding mists<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[109]</a></span> -of rain. Fugi, the sacred mountain, whose cone, -dominating the whole island, we had been taught -to watch for in our first view of Japan, is lost -to us. Sullen clouds and the gloomiest grey sky -hang over Yokohama.</p> - -<p>The departure from the <em>Empress of Japan</em> is a -scene of more than usual confusion, but we get -safely down the one gangway, thronged with -passengers and their luggage, and into the steam-launch -sent for us by the Government, and are -soon speeding along the pretty Bund to the -Grand Hotel. The first morning on shore after a -long voyage is always a harassing one. There are -letters to be posted, the money of the country to -be obtained, departure of the next steamer to be -ascertained, and here in Japan, above all, passports -to be seen about, for you cannot leave the Treaty -Ports without one. We afterwards found that in -an incredibly short space after arriving in any -town, the police always came to inquire for a -passport. Then we had to engage a guide, without -which you are assured you cannot travel in -Japan. I may at once say that, though we had -an excellent guide, we found him an unnecessary -nuisance, and parted with him in a few days. In -going into the interior of the country you require -one to cook and arrange, but keeping to the more -beaten tracks you can comfortably manage without.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[110]</a></span></p> - -<p>Of course we have spent the whole of our -first day in Japan in jinrikishas. Everyone does -so. Nor can we resist a visit to the curio shops, -though we harden ourselves against temptations, -knowing that we shall have but too many opportunities -to spend in the future. We were glad -of this afterwards, for we heard that the curio -dealers, on learning the large number of passengers -leaving Vancouver on the <em>Empress of Japan</em>, had -met together and by agreement raised their prices. -In the afternoon we went for a drive round the -Bluff, or European Settlement. Yokohama is a -treaty port, and at these ports, which were first -opened by the efforts of Commodore Perry to -foreigners in 1868, a concession of land was allotted -to the Europeans, where alone they are allowed -to reside. And very charming houses they have -built here, coloured red and green, or grey, and -buff, with well-kept roads and pretty gardens, -fenced in with bamboo hedges. We drive round -by the racecourse, with its grand stand and white -railings just like our Epsom course. The Mikado -visits Yokohama once a year to come to the -races, and we see his private box on the top of -the stand. Then home by the sea-shore and -across a plain of rice fields, descending through -the Settlement once more.</p> - -<p>Yokohama is a cosmopolitan place and enjoys -the glamour of being the landing-place in a new<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[111]</a></span> -country and the first sight of a new nation, hut -it contains nothing of interest. Along the Bund -or sea wall is a row of grey verandahed houses, -looking very Eastern amongst their palm trees. -Behind the sea front there are two or three streets, -chiefly containing curio shops, interspersed with -many grey walled godowns with their forbidding -barred and shuttered windows. People stay -at Yokohama, some because the hotel is comfortable, -some, like the American ladies, who, -though bringing large boxes of dresses, are so -fascinated by the Chinese tailors' prices, that they -stay to have more made, others again to haunt -the curio shops, and really the selection of -articles made with a view to the wants of the -ordinary traveller is so good, that you can -scarcely do better, we determined afterwards, -than shop at Yokohama. Others again are so -foolish as to be marked for life, by employing the -services of Hori-Chigo, whose advertisement runs -thus: "The celebrated Tattooer, patronized by -T.R.H. Princes Albert Victor and George, and -known all over the world for his fine and artistic -work. Designs and samples can be seen at the -Tattooing Rooms."</p> - -<p><em>Thursday, September 24th.</em>—Such a glorious -day, and we took a sudden determination to go at -once to Tokio, a short hour's journey. We found, -on arriving at the station, our luggage surrounded<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[112]</a></span> -by a group of the smallest of porters in neat blue -uniforms, and caps with yellow bands, dubiously -surveying my large basket, which was ultimately -transported by the help of all. The railways in -Japan were built by English engineers, and -worked by them, until the Japanese learnt to do it -for themselves. They are perfectly English, and -the names of stations, directions, even the mile -posts are written in both languages. The fares -are extraordinarily cheap, and the third-class -crowded, whilst the one first-class carriage on each -train is almost exclusively used by Europeans. -There are newspapers in the waiting-rooms; they -have the French system of locking you in the -latter until shortly before the arrival of the train; -and the American check system for luggage. -There was a funny little toy train waiting for us on -the very narrow gauge, drawn by a tiny black and -yellow engine. The long carriages with their seats -lengthways have as many as twenty-two windows, -and they are lined with Lincrusta-Walton paper. -There is a wooden tray with a tea-pot filled with -hot water, and glasses for the tea, which the -Japanese are always drinking. When we stop at -the stations there is such a cheerful chorus of -clicking high-heeled clogs, as the men and the -little ladies, with their smiling brown babies on -their bent backs, tippet and shuffle along.</p> - -<p>The short run between Tokio and Yokohama is<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[113]</a></span> -perfectly flat, with nothing but rice fields, or if -there is a little eminence it is crowned by the -dwarf forestry, which is the peculiar feature of -Japanese scenery.</p> - -<p>Tokio or Tokyo, is the official capital of Japan. -It is the old Yedo of our schoolroom geography. -The Minister of Foreign Affairs had sent his secretary -to meet us at the station, with a carriage similar -to an English victoria, drawn by pretty thick-set -black Japanese ponies, and with the Indian -custom of a running sayce, who jumps off and clears -the way at the corners. To the right of the broad -canal, along which we are driving, we see a grand -structure, which we suppose to be an official building -at least, and are surprised when we are told that it -is the Imperial Hotel. It is as palatial inside, with -its broad staircase and passages, and marble dining -hall, and its crowds of obsequious servants, who, -hands on knees, slide down in deep bows at every -corner, and that drawing in of the breath like a -gentle gasp, which in Japan is a sign of great respect. -The government have shown much enterprise -in assisting to build several of these large -hotels by grants of lands and subsidies, thus encouraging -foreign travellers to come and stay. -They serve also as places where imperial guests, like -the Duke and Duchess of Connaught (who stayed -here), and the Czarewitch, can be entertained, as -the palaces, owing to their complete absence of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[114]</a></span> -furniture, according to the custom of the country, -cannot be rendered habitable for the reception of -Europeans.</p> - -<p>Tokio, beautiful Tokio, with its multitudinous -little brown-eaved houses, crowded in lowly company -together, its broad moats, with the green -water, over which the mists gather at night and -disperse in the early morning sun, its great walls, -formed of blocks of stone piled up obliquely without -the aid of mortar that guard the Shogun's -Castle, and the pale-blue grey skies, with the clear -bright atmosphere, which lends such a charm and -softness to the picturesque scenes around. The -charm of Tokio is undefinable. It is so subtle as -only to be felt. But wherever you go, you will -be always coming back to those miles of solid -masonry and those moats with their grassy banks, -with a single row of twisted dragon-shaped fir -trees at the top—trees, that like all else in Japan, -are dwarfed, and where perhaps two or three solemn -rooks will perch and caw hoarsely, or even a red-legged -stork, with outstretched wings, will flap idly -across.</p> - -<p>I shall never forget the delight of our first drive -in Tokio. It was enough to be drawn swiftly and -silently along in the midst of those broad white -roads, shaded by avenues of graceful willows, and -see all the strangely fascinating life of every-day -Japan passing swiftly by, without going to see<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[115]</a></span> -anything in particular. For the motion of these -jinrikishas, the only practicable mode of progression -in Japan, is delightfully easy and pleasant. The -coolies in their dark blue cotton breeches and loose -jacket and large mushroom-shaped hats, go at an -easy trot of six miles an hour, and they will do -forty miles in one day. This patient, toiling, -perspiring race never seem to tire, and their bare -brown legs, with their large muscular development, -with sinews and veins standing out, and their high -regular action, trot as steadily as the rough docile -ponies. Their feet are bare, or covered with a -straw sandal, kept on by a ribbon passed round -the great toe. We see many shops hung with -hundreds of these sandals. Their cost is infinitesimally -small, but the roads are strewn with -cast-off ones, for they only last for a few journeys.</p> - -<p>We are driving along by the Inner Moat; for -there are three separate moats surrounding the -Castle, and then crossing over a bridge we pass -under an ancient stone gateway, and find ourselves, -between this and another one, equally massive and -with iron-plated doors studded with nails. We are -shut in by these curious walls of obsolete masonry. -Huge blocks of granite are piled up obliquely, one -resting on the other for support, without being -filled in by earth or mortar. They are broader -at the base, slope inwards, and stand by their -own weight. Again and again we came upon these<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[116]</a></span> -Titanic walls in the ancient buildings of Japan, and -never ceased wondering how they were first placed -in position and then held so, for centuries. Passing -through the second archway, we are in a -great open space, and above us are the white walls -and brown crinkled roofs of the Mikado's palace. -There is the grey stone bridge lighted by clusters -of electric lamps, across which the 121st Mikado -and the successor of the Shoguns passes to the -palace, around which linger mysteries leaving the -imagination free to picture the interior, for it is -invisible to everyone. The authors of that delightful -"Social Departure," it is true, saw it, but they -dare not record how the permission was obtained. -It is said that Mr. Liberty was the last to see this -enchanted abode, but then his visit was from a -professional view, to give his opinion on the -decorations, as one of the great sthetic decorators -of the day.</p> - -<p>The office of the Imperial Household, whither we -were bound to call on Monsieur Nagasaki, the -Emperor's Master of the Ceremonies, lies under -the Imperial Palace. The sentry at the gateway -stopped us, but after some parleying we were -allowed to proceed on foot, as none but titled -Japanese are allowed to pass in a jinrikisha. The -officer who accompanied us was typical of the -politeness which is the pleasantest feature of the -Japanese, and requested a souvenir of our visit in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[117]</a></span> -a visiting card. In coming away we passed the -Minister of Justice in a victoria, with a jinrikisha -roped behind, containing his detective.</p> - -<p>Tokio is one of the ten largest cities in the world, -and with its population of 1,400,000 spread out -over an extended area, the distances are great. It -has tramways, drawn by the diminutive ponies, -and an ear-piercing horn heralds an antique -omnibus in the principal thoroughfares. It has -electric light, gas, and telephones. Nor is it wanting -in handsome public buildings and offices like -the Admiralty, the Ministry for Foreign and -Home Affairs. The Houses of Parliament are -a skeleton of poles, for, just completed last year, -they were burnt down immediately and are now -rebuilding. We are passing an enclosure with -rows of white-washed buildings, little barracks, -suited to the little soldiers we see marching bravely -along in the streets, and crowned with the sixteen-petalled -chrysanthemum, the royal insignia, which -is everywhere and on everything.</p> - -<p>Before the afternoon light fails we visit the -temples at Shiba Park, the park being a grove of -trees under which picturesque groups of children -and nurses wander, or ladies stroll about, with -their jinrikishas following them.</p> - -<p>The entrance to this succession of mortuary -chapels, where the remains of the 7th and 9th -Shoguns are buried, is by a gorgeous gate of red<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[118]</a></span> -and green and gold—a gate such as we grew to be -familiar with, in the ceaseless succession of temples -in Japan, for all these Buddhist shrines have a -wearisome sameness in common, however beautiful -they may individually be. There is a quiet court -inside, filled with rows of stone pillars, with a circular -pagoda with open holes at the top. They are -lanterns offered as a mark of respect by the -Daimyos or great nobles to their master. Every -August, from the 12th to the 16th, lights are kept -burning there to entice the spirits to return during -their time of wandering, and not to journey by -mistake to hell. Another stone court with more -lanterns, and a pagoda-erection to a Minister of -War, whither, should a war occur, they hope his -spirit would return to watch over it and bring them -luck.</p> - -<p>We approach the Temple, with its black roof of -crenellated copper, and the overhanging eaves, from -each up-curved point of which hangs a tinkling -bronze bell, and we can see that this sombre outside -is only a wooden shell to preserve the gilding -and brilliant colours of the exterior.</p> - -<p>Our feet are bound up in cotton shoes, and we -enter by a side door into an exquisite little -sanctum, where the roof is all of lacquer, inlaid -with mother-of-pearl, and the panels on the walls -are carved in marvellous <i xml:lang="fr" lang="fr">repouss</i> work, with -flowers and animals. A softened light comes<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[119]</a></span> -through the open door, and the gold and red and -blue and green, melt into a harmony of rich colouring, -whilst the petal of each flower, the stalk of every -leaf, the plumage on the wings of the birds, stand -out in startling relief; and these panels represent -storks, with their long red legs, doves with their -silver-grey plumage, parrots with red and green -tails, and peacocks with fan-spread tails. Or there -are such flowers as the sacred lotus, the emblem of -Buddhism, the chrysanthemum and the pink peony. -One panel of exceptional beauty, is an exquisite -spray of tiger lilies, carved in high relief. Tradition -says that this was so greatly esteemed by the -Shogun, and that the two nails we see were used to -hang a cover over it, that no one should see it but -himself. The priest throws open the golden -trellis-work of a shrine, and shows us three -memorial tablets with the Shogun's names inscribed -on them. Around it there is a collection of china -vases, paper lanterns, and lacquer stands. Passing -behind the screen formed of bamboo bound with -silken cords, we come to a square room covered as -usual with matting, and with the same florid -decoration, where there is a row of lacquer boxes -each tied up with a cord. They contain the -Buddhist books, and are used for the daily -prayers.</p> - -<p>Through a grove of glossy-leaved camellias we -pass, and mount up some flights of ancient steps<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[120]</a></span> -to another temple. This is the Praying Room in -front of the Shogun's Tomb, and is only entered -by the Mikado and Archbishop, when they come -to worship the great departed on the day of his -decease. We pass behind this, and ascend yet -more moss-grown steps, to the tomb of the -Great Shogun, which is surmounted by a bronze -urn, and enclosed within stone parapets and iron -railings. The tomb bears the three-leaved -asarum, which is the crest of the House, and -is seen on many buildings of the date of that -dynasty. Since the fall of the Shoguns—or -military usurpers of executive power—and the -re-establishment to the Imperial City of the -present dynasty of Mikados, it has been replaced -by the Imperial Chrysanthemum. All is so quiet -and solemn here, and the memorial above the -tomb is so simple, as compared with the magnificence -that goes before, that as Mitford says, "The -sermon may have been preached by design, or it -may have been by accident, but the lesson is -there." The 9th, 12th and 14th Shoguns are -buried at Shiba, and their three temples, their -three praying rooms, and their three bronze urns, -stand in precisely similar lines with the one we are -at present by.</p> - -<p>In the evening we take jinrikishas and go into -the native quarters. If Tokio is charming in daylight, -it is simply a fairyland at night. There are<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[121]</a></span> -no lamps, save for a few electric beacons, that send -out their far-reaching flashes over all the city, but -the streets are lighted by innumerable pendulous -drops of light, that dance and quiver and dart -about, and cross and disappear quickly round -corners. They are the paper lanterns which hang -from the shafts of hundreds of jinrikishas, or are -carried by pedestrians, for everyone in Japan -carries his own lantern after dark; and some are -pale pink and others red or blue. Now their soft -light is reflected on the waters of the moat, -or glides quickly and noiselessly round the -stone ramparts and reappears like glow-worms on -the other side. Now we pass the crimson light -streaming out of the little box-like police station, -or the barrow of the street vendor with the bulb of -light shining mysteriously from behind his hanging -curtains. Soft even light falls across the -street from the windows of opaque paper, and we -can trace the shadows crossing them. Then as we -stealthily fly past, we see the dark interior of a -shop lighted by a single lamp, under which squats -a Rembrandt-like figure, intently working, for in -these busy human hives late at night and early -morning sees them still at work, or again the leaping -flames of fire in the centre of the floor light up -a family group. Then there is the street vendor, -with his flaring torches, and his wares spread out -against a wall. There is a festival held in some<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[122]</a></span> -particular street, lighted with lunging designs of -crimson paper lanterns, slung from bamboo poles, -to the god of writing. Then as we return home -through the dark quiet alleys, we hear the frequent -and melancholy sound of the bamboo flute -of the blind shampooer, as he feels his way, stick in -hand, along the street. He sounds but two notes, -but they have the wail of a world of sorrow in them, -that goes to the heart.</p> - -<p>Early the next morning we climbed up some -steps and passed into the lovely groves of Ueno -Park. The evergreen trees are still here, but the -avenue of cherry trees is bare and leafless, "which -presents a uniquely beautiful sight during the -blossom season, when the air seems to be filled with -pink clouds," and you can scarcely pass under the -trees for the showers of falling blossoms. A little -farther on there is a sheet of water covered with -flat green leaves, which three weeks ago was a mass -of pink and white lotus bloom. The blossoming of -the cherry, plum, lotus or chrysanthemum are -looked upon by the Japanese as national festivals. -In fact they are their only holidays, for they have -no Sunday or day of rest. The Japanese may be -said to have little or no religion. The upper -classes never worship at all, and the lower orders -are either Buddhists or Shintoists (Shintoism being -the worship of many gods), but they practically only -go to the temples to offer prayers, accompanied by<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[123]</a></span> -money to the gods, if they have any special request -to make, such as for a good harvest, or recovery -from sickness.</p> - -<p>There are many little tea-houses at Ueno Park, -and waiting damsels smile in a friendly -manner and beckon us in, but we cross the road -and leave this pleasant corner of the park, where -the simple people come to drink tea and amuse -themselves, and pass under one of those solemn -archways hewn out of single blocks of stone, a -torii or bird's rest. They are such grand yet -simple monuments of a dead past, and are found -at the entrance to all the temples in Japan. We -wander up the stone-paved avenue, through the -solemn illness of the great cryptomeria avenue, -towards the Buddhist Temple at the end. This -Temple, with its neighbouring pagoda, is more than -usually brilliant, being recently restored, but the -charm lies in its surroundings—in the quiet fir -groves, and the clumps of camellia trees, in the -pink blossoms of the monkey tree, and the solemn -cawing of the rooks, in the click-click of the -wooden sandals of the dear little waddling ladies -as they saunter along the pavement, with their -close-shaven children by their sides, so exactly like -the Japanese dolls we know at home. But in the -centre of this peaceful scene is a switchback railway, -whose noisy clatter profanes the stillness, but of -which the Japanese are truly proud. We pass a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[124]</a></span> -fortune stone. It is old and chipped, covered with -hieroglyphics and bespattered with dirty pellets of -paper, which are chewed first into a pulp and then -thrown at it. If they adhere, it is considered a -lucky omen.</p> - -<p>After quickly passing through the Museum, a -white Moorish building erected for the Exhibition, -and which is as dull as museums usually are, we -had one of those fascinating drives through the -streets to the shop of the most celebrated cloisonn -maker in Japan, and by special appointment to the -Mikado. There was nothing exposed in the shop -front, but leading us to the inmost recesses -at the back, one by one with reverent care, each -article was produced from its wooden case and -foldings of crpe and cotton wool, and placed with -justifiable pride before us, for this prince of designers, -Namikawa, is the greatest living artist in -Japan, and exists only for the production of the -masterpieces of his art. The exceeding tenderness -of the pale grey, darkening into lilac, forming the -background for a cock whose plumage, faithfully -delineated, is shown by the outline of every feather, -the rose pink, the translucent yellow—it is impossible -to convey the delicate tones of colour, or the -life-like drawing of his plaques and vases.</p> - -<p>We subsequently saw the many processes through -which cloisonn passes, and it is not until you have -seen the skill and delicate workmanship required,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[125]</a></span> -that you really begin to appreciate cloisonn. -And the same may be said about lacquer, which -requires knowing to be fully understood. First the -vase must be fashioned in copper, then the designer -must delineate from memory some intricate design -of flowers or birds or landscape. This again has -to be reproduced in tiny pieces of wire, pinched -and twisted deftly into shape and soldered on to -the copper. The interstices of the wire are filled -in with the brilliant colours that we see in the -saucers by the side of the workers, and the mixing -of these is the secret which ensures success. Five -times the colours are "filled," and five times burnt -in the kilns, and then the polisher with his different -coarsenesses of stones polishes it into a burnished -and chaste work of art.</p> - -<p>Apart from temples, there is not much to see at -Tokio, but it is the streets which fascinate you so -completely, that waking and sleeping you dream -of these, and you want to be always out and -amongst the bright life that flows through them. -To get any idea of Japan you must always -remember that everything is so ridiculously -small. Life here is in miniature. Everything is -lilliputian; beginning with the little houses, continuing -with the little men and women and their -tiny children, and ending with the little ponies, for -there are no horses in Japan. And so to imagine -a Japanese street, you must picture to yourself<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[126]</a></span> -rows of little brown houses, many of only one -storey, with large overhanging eaves. The interior -is wide open and only raised one step -from the street, and you look across the brightly -burnished floor through the opening of the -paper sliding screens, which are thrown back in -the daytime, and catch pretty glimpses of the -home life in the back yard. Many of the shops -are hung with funereal-looking purple and black -hangings, inscribed with white hieroglyphics giving -the names and nature of their wares. You recognize -the chemist's shop by the gold tablets setting -forth the details of the pharmacopœia within. -There are barbers' shops, with a half-shaven customer -with upturned chin seated in the chair; -drapers' with samples of bright-coloured stuffs hung -round a revolving wheel outside; toy-shops where -are sold those paper kites and tiniest of shuttlecocks, -or hobgoblin horses and animals of impossible -shape and size, with which the children play in -the street. There are others hung with nothing but -strings of straw sandals, or wooden clogs; grain -shops where the clean white green and red seeds -are sorted into baskets of samples. Here is one -for the sale of sak, the brandy of Japan, piled up -with huge barrels, and with those tapering blue and -white bottles which we are accustomed to use for -flower-vases, but which are really manufactured to -hold this popular beverage. And then the china<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[127]</a></span> -shops; they are an incessant delight, with their -hundreds of dear little common blue and white rice -bowls, their artistic tea-pots of pale green ware -with a spray of apple blossom, their hibachis, or -china flower-pots of deep blue, green or bronze -ware, which are used for the hot ashes to light -the pipe with, and are found on the floor of all tea-houses. -Again, we must look at this stationer's, -where that soft crinkled tissue paper is sold, and -the brushes with which the Japanese write so -swiftly and deftly, that the ink is absorbed -without blotting into the paper. In Japan they do -everything upside down. The horses stand with -their tails in their mangers and their heads where -their tails should be. Locks revolve contrariwise, -and the carpenters plane towards, instead of away -from the person. So with writing; they write from -the bottom of the page to the top, and from right to -left, and the number of their characters is appalling. -You must know from 3000 to 4000 characters to -write Japanese at all, and an educated man will -require some 6000; and the disappointing thing -is that when a foreigner has mastered this, the -literature opened up to him offers no reward for -his labour, as it practically does not as yet exist.</p> - -<p>See this fruit shop, where bunches of pale grey-green -water-grapes, brown pears, and plentiful -supplies of green figs are spread temptingly out, -interspersed with bunches of those luscious orange<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[128]</a></span> -persimmons that melt in the mouth, and taste like -a ripe apricot; this umbrella emporium, where -paper umbrellas, oiled to make them waterproof, -are open inviting inspection; a tea-shop, where the -tea is kept in gigantic jars striped purple and -green; a greengrocer's, with oblong sweet potatoes -in their pink skins, and turnips of abnormal -length; a basket shop, where bamboo baskets of -every shape and size are to be had; or a fishmonger's, -where the delicate pink and rainbow -scaled fish, are exposed daintily for sale on bright -blue and green china dishes. Nor must I forget -the confectioners' shops, where from a tiny oven -heated by charcoal, we see the most attractive -little pink, green, chocolate and white sugared -cakes turned out and placed in alternate rows on -trays. It is most amusing to see the extreme -economy of the heating arrangements. Four tiny -pieces of charcoal, turned over and husbanded -together by a pair of iron tongs, suffice to cook a -meal. The Government do not allow shops to -sell European and Japanese goods together, so -that now and again you pass one full of Manchester -atrocities, gaudy stuffs, ill-shaped English -umbrellas, cheap lamps, boots, hats, and underclothing, -which you turn away from, to seek once -more the tasteful display of the native stores.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_128.jpg" width="389" height="500" alt="" title="A LITTLE MOTHER" /> -<div class="caption"><p>"A LITTLE MOTHER."</p></div> -</div> - -<p>And what a medley of scenes there are, and -what a flow of life confined in these narrow streets<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[129]</a></span> -with their one-storeyed houses. Coolies harnessed -by ropes to drays full of rice, answering one -another with their musical patient cry of Huydah-Houdah; -itinerant vendors with bamboo poles -slung across the shoulder, and suspended trays -filled with every imaginable variety of article; -Buddhist priests with their shaven heads, and -white dresses with flowing sleeves, covered with -black crpe.</p> - -<p>Mingling with the crowd of dear little men and -women in their graceful flapping kimonos, are -the little girl "mothers," who at the age of ten -bend their backs and have a baby brother or -sister tied on. Happy babies they are, brown and -contented, as are their scantily-clothed kindred, -who obey an instinct of nature in making mud -pies and dust castles by the roadside. Here is a -closed van on wheels, painted black, being drawn -by policemen. It is a "Maria" with a prisoner -peering out between the bars.</p> - -<p>Every now and again we meet a funeral. The -coffin is a square deal box, slung on bamboo -poles, for the deceased has been placed in it in a -sitting posture with the knees up to the chin. It -is only another form of the economy of material, -that forms such an especial feature in all things -Japanese. However, this people understood long -before we did, the use of lovely wreaths of coloured -flowers, to mitigate the gloom of mourning, and the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[130]</a></span> -coffin is hung with them. Ancestor-worship takes -a prominent part in Japanese religion, and now we -understand at last the use of those elaborate -gold and lacquer cabinets, with outer and inner -folding doors, that you so often see in England. -These cabinets are intended as the shrines where -the little golden memorial tablets, in the form of -small gravestones, and engraved with the name of -the deceased, are kept at home. The deceased is -always given a posthumous name, as, not believing -in the immortality of the soul, but rather in its -transmigration into an animal, they say that he -has ceased to exist altogether, and has changed -his state and lives under a new name. These -memorial cabinets are found in all the houses of -the upper classes.</p> - -<p>The pictures that we know of these little -Japanese ladies are the most faithful reproductions. -Wrapped tightly round in their kimonos, with -the bunch of the obi formed by its folding over at -the back, their figures take the graceful bend and -curve we see pourtrayed. The loose flowing -sleeves, and the soft folds around the neck, and -open at the throat, are so pretty. Their underclothing -consists of several loose garments of -crpe, which is the material exclusively used by the -upper classes, and their hips are so tightly bound -that no European woman could stand it. They -treat their hips as we do our waists, their object<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[131]</a></span> -being to be perfectly straight. When this was -explained to me, I understood how it was that an -extra breadth is put into the kimonos bought -by Europeans. It is curious that, though the -Japanese bathe so frequently, they are not particular -as to changing their underclothing. The -women wear white stockings with a pocket -for the great toe, and "getas" formed of a sole -of wood, perched on two high clogs of the -same, and kept on by a leash. Thus, when -they enter a house, they leave their clogs at the -door, and go about on the spotless matting in -their stockings. As they sit and eat off the floors, -they cannot allow the dirt of outside boots to be -brought in, and all Japanese houses are scrupulously -clean.</p> - -<p>The kimonos of ladies are made in delicate -quiet-toned stuffs of pale grey or fawn colour; but -simple as some of them appear, the stuffs of which -they are made are so costly that, even unembroidered, -they will cost as much as 300 dollars. -And then their obis, those broad sashes of the -richest brocades and satins—on them they lavish -all their pride and money, and they often descend -as heirlooms in a family. The dressing of their -hair is one long-continued source of admiration; -it is such black glossy hair, and the coils are so -immaculately smooth. There are but two styles -of headdress for the whole country—one for the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">[132]</a></span> -married ladies, and one for the single; and so you -can always distinguish their state in life at a -glance. The married women have it dressed in a -single extended roll, with inlaid combs and coral-headed -pins placed round; whilst the unmarried -ladies wear their hair divided by a silk or gauze -ribbon into two flat coils placed on either side of -the head, and have still more decoration in the -way of glass bead pins. And as to the little girls, -they are the counterpart of their mothers, and from -the earliest ages wear theirs in a similar manner. -It used to be the custom for married women to -have their teeth blackened, to prevent their receiving -admiration from men other than their husbands; -but this is dying out, and you now only see old -married women in country districts following this -obsolete fashion. No Japanese woman ever walks. -She shuffles, she scuffles, she tippets along, -balancing on her high-heeled getas; but step -out the necessary stride for a walk, no, they cannot -do that, for their kimonos are so narrow that they -cannot move otherwise than with their knees -knocking together. They are not pretty, these -meek, gentle-looking, brown-skinned creatures, -yet their sweet deprecating manners are very -attractive. They are excellent mothers; more -excellent wives, in their complete subjection and -utter want of initiative. The sum total of their -education is implicit reverence and obedience, first<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">[133]</a></span> -to parents, subsequently to husbands; and at the -Peeress' school at Tokio, we are told that they -are so afraid that the modern education given -there to the daughters of the nobles will militate -against this ideal, that particular lectures are given -on the subject.</p> - -<p>The men, so long as they wear the native dress, -are dark, pleasant-looking little men; but when -you see them, as you frequently do now, with a -kimono surmounted by a brown or black pot-hat, -a solar topee, or even a tweed stalking-cap, -they are positively evil and unpleasant to look -at.</p> - -<p>Viscount Okab, so long Minister in London, -took us for a drive in the afternoon, and then we -had time, before a pleasant dinner with Mr. and -Mrs. Fraser at the British Legation, to go to the -Theatre.</p> - -<p>The corridor is covered with piles of sandles and -umbrellas, whilst from the adjoining kitchens come -savoury and nauseous smells. The floor of the -Theatre slopes upwards from the stage, and is -divided into square compartments, neatly matted, -and intended for family boxes. The galleries are -divided in the same way. And here groups of ladies -and gentlemen are encamped for the whole day, -for a Japanese theatre begins at 9 a.m. and lasts -for ten hours; nor is this all, for the same piece -may be continued from day to day, and last for<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">[134]</a></span> -six weeks. It is now five in the afternoon, and -yet the audience maintain a deep interest and -breathless gaze on the stage.</p> - -<p>This is the outline of the story. The lank, -die-away lady we see trailing across the stage has -retired to a wood, with a rill of crystal water, to -live in a temple, there, to mourn the death of her -father in a war. The young man who was (unknown -to her) his murderer, passes casually along -and she falls in love with him. This love-making, -in the drawling nasal accents, and its tediously -slow movements, is most unreal, and as they drink -the loving cup of sak together, the father's disapproving -spirit, in a rushing flame of fire, blazes -up from the temple. Darkness drowns the -applause, and warriors rush on the scene and -begin to fight the maiden, who mesmerizes them, -until one by one they fall at her feet.</p> - -<p>The orchestra is represented by five musicians, -perched up on a rock. I may say at once that, -artistic as is the nature of the Japanese, their -idea of music is absolutely <em>nil</em>. It consists of -a series of grunts and groans, or of nasal notes -in a bass key, or of falsetto in a high one.</p> - -<p>But the interest lies to us in the audience, who, -in the interval of twenty minutes, eat their evening -meal. Some have brought their food with them, -and nearly all their own china tea-pots, for a constant -supply of tea. Others buy theirs, and are<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">[135]</a></span> -provided with a succession of little wooden bowls -piled on each other, and for which they have to -pay the usual theatre price of ten cents, or double -the ordinary one. In each box there is a hibachi, -or china bowl full of hot ashes, where they light -their pipes, for men and women are continually -smoking, and their pipes have the smallest bowl, -the size of a thimble—two whiffs and it is empty -again; but it is sufficient for their modest wants.</p> - -<p><i>September 26th.</i>—I am writing in the most -delightful real Japanese house, far away in the -midst of these beautiful mountains of Nikko.</p> - -<p>The thin wooden frame of the house is covered -with luminous parchment paper, and these are -the walls that divide us from the outside world. -They are not permanent ones, for they slide back -one behind the other, a succession of paper screens, -until the house is open to the street and there is -only the shell of a habitation left in the roof, and -one paper wall behind. The second-floor storey -(if there is one) is marked by a long balcony -running completely round, and here in cupboards -at either end are kept the wooden shutters that -slide into grooves and close in the balconies, in -winter and at night, and give to all the houses the -dull appearance of a blank wooden wall at sundown. -Inside, the roof and floors are of white -wood, and the latter is covered with spotless -matting; but I am glad to say that there are<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">[136]</a></span> -European concessions here, in the shape of a -table, chair, and washstand and bed, on which is -laid a clean starched kimono to go to the bath in. -In a Japanese house we should find no furniture -at all. Their rooms are absolutely bare; they -eat, sit and sleep on the floor, and from out of a -cupboard in a recess will come the "futons," or -thick wadded quilts, and the square piece of wood -with a hollow for the neck, where a soft wad of -paper is inserted, and which is used for a pillow -by the ladies to save their elaborate headdress -from getting deranged. As they cannot dress -their hair themselves, it is only done occasionally, -and must thus be considered even when -sleeping.</p> - -<p>The construction of these houses is so delightfully -simple, for, excepting the polished ladder -which leads upstairs, there is no plan of the rooms. -They are made larger or smaller, more or less, -according to the want of the hour, by means of -those successions of sliding screens, and a little -pushing and sliding will make the large room you -are using, into five or six smaller ones in a second. -These tea-houses are charming in their compact -simplicity, their faultless cleanliness, and particular -neatness.</p> - -<p>It was at four o'clock this afternoon that we -arrived at Nikko, and drove from the station -through the end of the great cryptomeria avenue,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">[137]</a></span> -past the village, until the jinrikisha was suddenly -shot round a corner, down a narrow passage, and -stopped at the courtyard step of the Suzuki Hotel. -Here quite a little crowd of bowing attendants -received us with many deep salaams, and sucking-in -of breath; one relieved me of an umbrella, -another of a cloak, and another of a book, and -went before us, encouraging us with graceful gesticulations -and faces wreathed in smiles to enter -the house, impressing us in an indescribably -charming manner that we were showing them -but too much honour in doing so. Of course we -drank tea—it is the first ceremony on entering any -Japanese house; and then came the second one—the -solemn ceremony of the bath.</p> - -<p>Bathing is the passion and pastime of the -Japanese, and they bathe as often as two or three -times a day. In all towns there are public baths, -where, in the evening, the population meet to -gossip and take a bath for the modest price of two -cents. Not long ago men and women in a state -of nature bathed together, but Government has -forbidden this now. However, we visited one -where a wall separated the bath, but still left the -entrance to both open to the public view. In -villages there will be a tub or barrel outside every -door, and one evening we saw a man preparing -his bath, with a fire kindling under the zinc bottom -of his tub. They take their baths as hot as 110<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">[138]</a></span> -Fahrenheit, and for some unexplained reason -foreigners find that cold or lukewarm baths are -unsuited to the climate, and adopt the native -temperature. The rule at hotels is that the -first arrival is entitled to the first use of the bath.</p> - -<p>To take up the thread of the story, we left Tokio -at eleven this morning, the Foreign Office sending -a carriage to take us to Ueno station.</p> - -<p>Through groves of cryptomeria, maple, fir, -willow, wild cherry and Spanish chestnuts we -travel. Past great clumps of bamboo, which to -see only is to be able to picture the mighty -growth of their graceful, feathery foliage; by -picturesque villages, with their angular brown -thatched roofs crowding low down over their -mud-wattled walls, nestling amongst banyon groves -interspersed with persimmon trees, bare of leaves -but laden with bunches of golden fruit. Then we -emerge on to the open country, where the cultivation -is so exquisitely neat that it resembles a succession -of kitchen gardens. There are no hedges, -and no grass, but the whole land is taken up by -small patches of onions, turnips, maize, millet, -sweet potatoes, and the broad caladium-like leaf of -another species of potatoes, whose English equivalent -to the Japanese name I failed to discover. -These alternate with rice fields, where the bright -yellow tells of the ripening and bursting of the grain. -The soil is rich and black, and labour is done by<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">[139]</a></span> -hand-spade, but the absence of pasture strikes us. -However, there are few cows or oxen, and no -sheep, numberless experiments failing to rear them; -and the ponies live on chopped straw, beans and -the refuse of grain.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_139.jpg" width="560" height="369" alt="" title="THE RED LACQUER BRIDGE, NIKKO" /> -<div class="caption"><p>THE RED LACQUER BRIDGE, NIKKO.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>An hour before reaching Nikko we pass into the -mountains. It is such a picturesque, well-wooded -range, this Nikko chain of mountains, and they all -bear that peculiar Japanese characteristic of rising -straight out of the plain, ending with sharp three-sided -cones, and like all else in this country, -though lofty, they are on a small scale, toy mountains -that seem to fit in with the miniature -picture.</p> - -<p>We had time after our arrival at Nikko, and -before dusk, to pass through the village, across -the wonderful red lacquer bridge, and following -a grass path to come to a Waterfall. On -the rock opposite is inscribed the word Hammn, -and the legend goes, that as no one could, -as we see, possibly cross the fall to write it, an -artist threw his pen at the rock and it inscribed -this Sanskrit word. And now in the growing twilight -we pass along under the shadow of a row of -mutilated grey idols, each squatted on his pedestal -with crossed hands, looking over the stream. I -counted 120 figures, but no two people have ever -been known to make the same number. At the -head of this solemn avenue of gods there is a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[140]</a></span> -larger one facing the others. They are supposed -to be the Judges before whom the spirits of the -departed pass, and are judged whether they shall -go to heaven or hell; and hence they are covered -with many paper labels, the prayers of relatives for -the deceased, that grace may be granted them by -the gods. It is a solemn tribunal, with its presiding -judge, and each face is different in expression, and -yet they are such mobile, expressionless faces, as -if to represent a dispassionate and unbiassed -judgment.</p> - -<p>After dinner we adjourned into an empty room, -when a man appeared with a card, and before we -could look round the whole room was full of -merchants producing out of their cotton bundles, -beautiful carved ivories, bronzes, silver, china, lacquer, -and furs, for Nikko produces excellent ones. -They are so persuasive, and ingratiate their wares -all round into your hands, that it is with difficulty -we escape; and making our airy chambers a little -less so by having the shutters run out of their -cupboard, we are soothed to sleep by the wailing -sounds of the samisen, that comes from the -brightly-lighted little tea-house on the opposite -hill.</p> - -<p>It is amusing the next morning to dress with the -wall of the room thrown back, and to hear the constant -shuffle of sandals, or the clatter of the clogs -as these little men and women in their flapping<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">[141]</a></span> -draperies cross the yard; and this courtyard is so -characteristic. It is but a few square feet in -dimensions, yet there is a dragon-shaped fir-tree -in the centre, whose outstretched arms are supported -by bamboo poles, which form a little -arbour with a seat in it; then there is a stone -lantern and a bronze stork, a lamp-post and a -wandering paved pathway, that gives a great idea -of distance.</p> - -<p>We go directly after breakfast to the Temples to -see the tombs of the Shoguns. They are three -hundred years old, and as beautiful as carving, -colour and design can make them. We ascend up -a winding flight of stone steps through the gloom -of a magnificent avenue of cryptomerias. They -are tremendously tall, impressive trees, with -their moss-grown trunks and stems, and these -steps wind through their midst, a fit leading up to -the great mausoleums. Passing the courts of a -monastery, we are first shown a Buddhist temple -where, hidden behind the silk-bound bamboo -blinds, there are three colossal gold Buddhas seated -cross-legged on lotus leaves. In the mysterious -gloom, they look solemnly and indifferently into -space. On the platform by this temple there is -suspended a big bronze bell, which is sounded by -a pole propelled against the side. As we stand -there it gives forth its sonorous musical toll, and at -every hour of the day its sweet and solemn note<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">[142]</a></span> -echoes over the valley. Then, seated in a semicircle, -the priests of Buddha begin to chant the -morning orisons, droning in a nasal tone, and with -the accompanying tom-tom of a drum. We leave -them to pass on to the tomb of the great warrior -Shogun, Yeysu.</p> - -<p>The wide road, bordered by those walls of mortarless -blocks of stone, leads up to the flight -of steps and an elaborate Sammon or gateway, -the entrance to the first temple. There are a -number of wooden tablets outside, on which are -inscribed the names of the subscribers to the -fabric of the temple. The inner court is full of -interest, for you must imagine that all the buildings -it contains are covered with decorations and -paintings. One of the storehouses where pictures, -furniture, and other articles belonging to Yeysu -are kept, has carvings in relief of elephants, in -which the joints of the hind legs are turned in the -wrong direction. There is the tree which the -Shogun carried about in his palanquin with him -when it was still small enough to travel in a flowerpot, -and the stable for the sacred white pony, kept -for the use of the god; over which is a very clever -group of three monkeys, representing the three -countries of India, China, and Japan. One monkey -shows he is blind by covering his eyes with his -hand, another deaf by stopping his ears, and a third -dumb by closing his mouth. The one signifies<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">[143]</a></span> -that you must see no evil; the other that you must -hear no evil; the last that you must speak no evil.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_142.jpg" width="383" height="560" alt="" title="PAGODA OF THE TEMPLE AT NIKKO" /> -<div class="caption"><p>PAGODA OF THE TEMPLE AT NIKKO.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The water cistern, hung round as is usual in -these temples with coloured rags, is formed of a -single block of granite, so evenly cut that the -water flowing over it is a glassy, imperceptible -surface. Next to it is a library, where through the -grating we see a revolving book-case made of -lacquer with gilt columns, containing a complete -collection of the Buddhist scriptures.</p> - -<p>And now we come to the exquisitely beautiful -gate of the Yomeimon, with its graceful arabesques -founded upon the peony pattern, its niches and -columns, its golden clawed dragons and groups of -Chinese sages, which leads into the inner court of -the temple. Surrounded by open trellis-work -screens, we pass up several flights of steps, and take -off our boots by the huge bronze money-box -waiting for offerings. The interior is filled with -a dim light, but you are in the midst of a place so -rich in subdued soft colour, so embroidered in -elaborate designs and harmonizing tones, that it is -some minutes before you can at all appreciate the -full beauty. The ceiling is formed of squares -divided by ribs of black lacquer and enamelled in -peacock blue and green; there are gilt carved -screens, where perch birds of paradise, doves, -parrots, ducks, peacocks; others where the asarum -or peony, the royal flower, the lily, and the lotus, are<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">[144]</a></span> -carved in high relief. And the ante-chambers on -either side are equally perfect; in one there is a -carved and painted ceiling with an angel surrounded -by a chrysanthemum, and some boldly executed -eagles; in another, pictures of unicorns on a gold -ground, and some phœnixes.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_144.jpg" width="560" height="424" alt="" title="Mausoleum of Yeyasu" /> -<div class="caption"><p>Mausoleum of Yeysu.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>In an adjoining temple a woman in scarlet and -white draperies performed a sacred dance. It is -a slow and graceful movement; the bells in her -hand keep rhythmical time, while she amuses and -charms away the evil spirit from the dead Shogun. -We have now a long pilgrimage to perform, up to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">[145]</a></span> -the platform on high, where rests the body of -Yeysu. The ancient stone stairs, the balustrade -and columns, are clothed in the most vivid green -moss, whilst the cryptomerias form a dark archway -above. There is complete silence around. The -place is damp and deserted. We might, from -their moss-grown appearance, be the first to tread -these steps for a thousand years, and slowly -mounting them, we feel we are breaking the spell -that has hung over them, as we find ourselves on -the stone terrace at the top. Here there is a -praying temple, and we pass round to the tomb at -the back. It is a simple bronze urn, shaped -like a small pagoda, with a stone table in front, on -which is placed a bronze stork with a candle in its -mouth, an incense burner, and a vase of artificial -lotus flowers. Such is the end of all greatness.</p> - -<p>Returning home, we took jinrikishas for the -mountain expedition to Lake Chữzenji. For some -miles we travel by the side of the river's bed and -between the mountains, meeting many pack-ponies -laden with merchandise, shod like the men with -straw sandals. It looks rainy, and the men have -donned their waterproof coats, and these consist of -a straw mantle formed like a thatch; when you -see a fisherman standing in the water with his legs -immersed, and only this thatch above, it produces -the most comical effect of a floating haystack. As -we begin climbing the mountain road, we see<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">[146]</a></span> -many strange and beautiful new shrubs, flowers, -and trailing creepers growing amongst the rocks. -Soon a tea-house comes in sight, with the front -entirely open, and pretty sliding screens of blue -paper. Cushions are placed on the floor and tea -brought by a welcome-smiling damsel. It is pale, -straw-coloured tea made from the young undried -shoot of the tea-plant, and it is not allowed to -infuse, but is poured straight into the tiny handleless -cups, with two or three leaves at the bottom, -and served on a lacquer tray with pink and white -sweetmeats. But how artistic is the design on the -common bronze kettle hanging over the open fire -in the centre of the room, and kept always boiling -for tea to be quickly made; how delicate the pale -blue colour of the thin eggshell cups, with the -spray of cherry blossom. It is one of the many -charms of Japan, that art is brought to use in all -the appurtenances of daily life.</p> - -<p>The ascent to Chữzenji, right into the heart of -the mountains, is perfectly lovely. I have never -seen grander or more charming scenery. When we -rest for a minute at one of the many tea-houses, -there is such a splendid view of two cascades -flowing down a rocky precipice. It is the meeting-place -of several valleys, and the joining of several -mountain spurs, and there is an open park-like -space, which looks so green and smiling amid these -rugged fastnesses. There is a movement in those<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">[147]</a></span> -bushes in the valley! It is a troop of monkeys -jumping from branch to branch; for Japan is a -strange mixture of tropical and hardy growths. -You find the flowers and plants of north latitudes -growing beside the palms and fruits of the tropics. -The ascent becomes more and more trying, though -this good, new road was hurried over, to be finished -for the visit of the Czarewitch last year, which -never took place, owing to his attempted assassination -by a fanatic near Kyoto.</p> - -<p>Clouds came down as we reached the pretty fall -at the summit, so we only heard its roar, dulled -by the thick mist; but they cleared away again, as -we came to the shores of the lake, 4375 feet above -the sea. The deserted houses in the village are -used by the pilgrims who come here in August. -We rested on the balcony of a tea-house overhanging -the lake, and then the descent was accomplished -in one unbroken run, one coolie acting as a -drag behind, whilst the other in the shafts steadied -the jinrikisha round the sharp curves.</p> - -<p><em>September 28th.</em>—We spent a long morning -amongst the Tombs again, and we shall carry away -with us such a vision of picturesquely pointed -black roofs, outlined in gold and red, and graceful -bamboo groves, of moss-grown flights of steps under -the shadow of stately avenues of cryptomerias, of -ancient stone walls with a vista leading to massive -torii. We shall dream of the many solemn rows<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">[148]</a></span> -of stone lanterns, of gateways bright with rainbow -hues and guarded by dragon monsters, of the -bronze urns hidden away up on those quiet nooks -in the mountains, and above all of the enchanted -atmosphere, the deep stillness, the solemn peace -that rests over these shrines of the dead.</p> - -<p>We waited on the steps of the temple to hear -the big bronze bell slowly send out its voice once -more at midday across the valley, and then came -home.</p> - -<p>On our return journey to Tokio in the afternoon -we took jinrikishas to Imaicho, the station beyond -Nikko, so as to drive five miles through the magnificent -cryptomeria grove that runs parallel with -the railway. The avenue extends for fifty miles, -and was used by the envoy of the Mikado when -he sent to offer presents at the tomb of Yeysu. -These cryptomerias are grand trees, with their -stately trunks shooting up in regular lines, whilst -their long branches only grow from their summits, -and intertwining make a dim twilight below.</p> - -<p>On arriving at Tokio, we had a drive through -the fairyland of its glimmering streets.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">[149]</a></span></p> - - - - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VI" id="CHAPTER_VI"></a>CHAPTER VI.<br /> - -<span class="smallish">NEW NIPPON.</span></h2> - - -<p>We were up early to get a glimpse of the Mikado -as he passes to open some new barracks. His -route is lined with policemen, pigmy but efficient -guardians of the peace, with their white duck uniforms -and large swords. The morning mists are -floating off the grey green moats, as we pass into -quite a new quarter of Tokio, where the noblemen -have their palaces, amid gardens green with willows -and acacias. We drive past the red brick buildings -of the Peeress' School, the New Police Buildings, -and the Dowager Empress' Palace, guarded -by sentries, until we come out on the exercising -ground before the barracks.</p> - -<p>Scattered about this plain are companies of -infantry and cavalry, mounted on small black -ponies, whilst a band is being marched inside the -barrack square, where are anxious-looking groups -of officers in gala dress, ablaze with decorations -of the Order of the Chrysanthemum and Rising -Sun, awaiting their sovereign's arrival. It is an<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">[150]</a></span> -apathetic crowd, which shows no excitement as -the advance guard with an outrider in green and -gold livery appears, quickly followed by two -closed barouches, the first of which is surrounded -by a company of Lancers with flying pennons. -We just catch a passing glimpse of a dark man -with a beard, rather stout, and looking more than -his age of forty. The band plays the National -Anthem and the gates close on the procession.</p> - -<p>And this is the 121st Sovereign of Japan, the -first commencing his reign in 660 <span class="smcap">b.c.</span>, as the -preamble to the Constitution runs: "Having by -virtue of the glories of our ancestor ascended -the throne of a lineal succession unbroken for -ages eternal." In connection with the ancestor-worship, -which is the only form of worship performed -by the upper classes, the Emperor's oath -on his accession is interesting. "We, the successor -to the prosperous throne of our Predecessors, do -humbly and solemnly swear to the Imperial -Founder of our House, and to our other Imperial -Ancestors, that in pursuance of a great policy, -co-extensive with the Heaven and with the Earth, -we shall maintain, and secure from decline, the -ancient form of government.</p> - -<p>"That we have been so fortunate in our reign -in keeping with the tendency of the times as to -accomplish this work, we owe to the glorious -spirits of the Imperial Founder of our House and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">[151]</a></span> -our other Imperial Founders. We now reverently -make prayer to them and to our Illustrious -Father and implore help of their sacred spirits, -and make to them solemn oath, never at this -time, nor in the future, to fail to be an example -to our subjects in the observance of the Law."</p> - -<p>At eleven o'clock, Mr. Nagasaki, Master of the -Ceremonies in the Imperial Household, calls for -us in a royal carriage to show us the country -Palace of Sheba, whose gardens lie by the sea-shore. -Side by side in the grounds, which are -approached by a very unpretentious drive and -entrance, stand the European Palace, furnished, -and the Japanese one of paper screens and matting -covered floor, though we are shown here into a -carpeted room, with heliotrope satin covered chairs -and sofa. It is the custom now in Japanese houses -of the upper ten, to have one European furnished -room, which is only used for the reception of -foreigners. As we take tea out of the little eggshell -cups, we do not think the garden looks large, -but by the time we have followed the blue uniformed -janitor, with the eternal chrysanthemum on -his cap, in his up and down wanderings, we feel -as if we had walked miles.</p> - -<p>The Japanese ideal of landscape gardening is -to have a different view from every point, and -to this end they make a miniature park. These -knolls, mounted by wooden steps on one side<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">[152]</a></span> -and descended on the other, represent hills; -the pond crossed by a stone bridge made out -of two stones, is a lake; the island in its -midst is formed of a rock and one tree; the -timber is represented by some dwarfed and distorted -fir trees, for the smaller and more spreading, -the more valuable they become. The Japanese -take great pains with these deformed trees, pruning -them back, and picking out the fir needles one -by one. They give large sums of money for an -old tree, and we were shown a tiny fir in a pot -over eighty years old. And yet these Japanese -gardens, twisted and deformed as they are, with -no open green lawns or bright flower-beds, are -very quaint and attractive in their own way. -Then we drove on to the Euryo-kwan, another -Imperial Palace, where the Emperor and Empress -hold their annual cherry blossom party in April, -and when the arched avenue we are standing -under, is a mass of pink and white bloom. The -chrysanthemum garden party at the Palace is in -November, and very beautiful, from all accounts -it must be, the plants trained into every shape -and device, of ships, pagodas, and umbrellas.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_152.jpg" width="560" height="420" alt="" title="AN IMPERIAL GARDEN, TOKIO" /> -<div class="caption"><p>AN IMPERIAL GARDEN, TOKIO.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Mr. Nagasaki told us a great deal of the bitterness -of the struggle of old Japan against the -sudden inroad of European custom, a struggle -that is apparent everywhere, but more especially -in the capital at Tokio. The next generation<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">[153]</a></span> -will be altogether European. The Court is -modelled on the etiquette of our English Court, -and the Emperor has the same court officials as -the Queen, whilst the Empress holds Drawing -Rooms, and has her ladies in waiting, everyone -wearing European and low evening dresses. -We found that all gentlemen wear European -clothes, whilst their wives yet cling to the far -more comfortable and graceful kimono. English -is taught in all the upper-class, schools, and -spoken very generally in shops, where the names -are also written up in English, though there are -only 3000 Europeans altogether resident in Japan. -The Mikado has a son of twelve, and two little -girls, and the former is soon to have an English -tutor.</p> - -<p>We drove to Ueno Park, to a luncheon given -in our honour by the Minister for Foreign Affairs, -Viscount Enomotto. This restaurant is the -"Berkeley" of Tokio, and it was a most elaborate -repast, though we could have wished that it -had been in a Japanese house. However, Viscount -Enomotto, Viscount Okab, Mr. Nagasaki, -and M. Haryashi Tadasu, had brought their wives, -Viscountess Okab being a charming bride who -spoke English. These ladies wore kimonos in -pale blue, fawn and grey, and their costly embroidered -obis were clasped round with a single -jewel. They had diamond rings and brooches,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">[154]</a></span> -and their glossy hair arranged in wonderfully -glossy coques with tortoiseshell combs; and -such sweet gracious ladies as they were, shyly -putting out their hands, and bowing so low and -gracefully, and speaking in such soft, caressing -tones. Even here, though, European influences -were at work, for I saw a pair of high-heeled French -shoes, and even a pair of carpet slippers peeping -out from under the kimonos.</p> - -<p>The room had such beautiful vases of flowers, -arranged as only Japanese can, not put together, -but as if growing in natural sprays. After much -drinking of healths and ceremonious compliments, -we adjourned to the neighbouring Technical -School of Art, where we saw specimens of lacquer -work, and some of the thirty-five processes through -which it passes before completion. The natural -taste for art in the nation comes out in the work -of these 190 students, who pay ten yen a year for -their instruction, for their wood carvings and drawings -from life are of extraordinary excellence, and -executed too with the roughest tools.</p> - -<p>The same evening we visited the Maple Leaf -Club, to see a performance of "geisha" or dancing -girls.</p> - -<p>This fashionable club was founded by the Nobles, -for the preservation of Japanese customs, and as a -protest against the general use of European ones. -Thirty dancing girls are maintained, educated and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">[155]</a></span> -kept in strict discipline from the age of fourteen, in -the premises of the club. We are ushered through -numerous dimly-lighted corridors, on our stockinged -feet, into a large matted room, bare of furniture, -where we squat on cushions on the floor. A -Japanese dinner is served, course after course being -brought in lacquer bowls. A row of maidens, with -their almond eyes dancing with laughter, squat -before us and smile gleefully as we vainly struggle -with our chopsticks, and try with frantic efforts -to swallow the recherch dinner, for as Murray -truly says: "Europeans cannot eat Japanese -food." And this was the mnu. Sweet cakes of -rice and sugar, served on plates with the monogram -of a maple leaf; soup, a brown liquid with -floating lumps of fish; an omelette (of ancient -eggs) with fish sauce; a hot trout with upturned -tail, with grated cheese coloured pink, a stewed -fig, and a finger-like radish that tasted like ginger; -more fish with a nasty sauce and stewed seaweed. -As will be seen, fish formed a large item of the -dinner, for the Japanese eat all that comes out of -the sea. Sak is served from the long-necked blue -and white bottles into tiny cups. Despair was -gaining upon us at the ceaseless arrival of more -lacquer bowls, when the work of the evening commenced.</p> - -<p>Three demure damsels, in quiet kimonos, with -their samisens or guitars, enter, and begin to play<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">[156]</a></span> -and sing. From behind a screen, their faces hidden -by their fans, steal in three geishas, dressed in the -loveliest grey and pink kimonos, embroidered with -the crimson leaf of the maple. Slowly they girate, -their clinging garments trailing around their -turned-in toes. Deliberate and graceful are their -slow motions, and the three figures act as one piece, -and not only do their arms move in unison, but -their faces do so too, and they elevate the eyebrows -and close the eyes with the rise and fall of the -body. In pretty imagery they tell the pathetic -little story of the maple leaf: its birth and -growth, its mature glory, and its death, the dance -ending by the fans being thrown upon the floor, -even as it falls to the ground and dies. A second -performance is a clever mimicry, by the aid of -masks, of an old man, his wife and daughter; and -the last dance, with the floating gauze streamers -that wave rhythmically with the music, is most -elegant. These geishas are the favourite -form of amusement, and in all villages you pass -houses with mysterious gratings, enclosing a -floor, where nightly the gentle wail of the samisen -is heard and the graceful performance of the -geishas is seen.</p> - -<p><em>October 1st.</em>—We have had a terrible experience -of a typhoon. It began with a thunder-storm -last night, accompanied by violent showers of -tropical rain, the drops being as large as small<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">[157]</a></span> -marbles, whilst the thunder claps crackled and -boomed overhead, and the dazzling lightning -was blinding. The air was full of electricity, -and a feeling of restless foreboding took possession -of all. This morning the air was -so damp and close that you felt scarcely able to -breathe. Violent gusts of wind, increasing in succession, -alternate with strange pauses of breathless -stillness. There is no twitter of bird or hum of -beautiful dragon fly, for they are forewarned by -these signals of danger, and have crept into safety. -The force of the wind increases, and it is blowing -a hurricane, as in our ignorance of these dreadful -phenomena of typhoons (a word formed from the -Japanese meaning "great wind,") we leave the -Imperial Hotel at Tokio, on our return journey to -Yokohama, just as it reaches its height.</p> - -<p>Trying to walk to the station, I was blown away -at the first corner, and then two men with a -jinrikisha began a hand-to-hand struggle with the -wind, making scarcely any progress, and across the -open spaces being literally blown backwards, and -only able to steady the jinrikisha from going bodily -over. How we reached the Shimbashi station I -never understood, but I know that we arrived -breathless, blinded, and soaked through with the -rain, with dishevelled hair and battered hats, -thankful only for the shelter of the station; and -just as we seated ourselves in the carriage, a lady<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">[158]</a></span> -was brought in very much bruised and hurt by the -overturning of her jinrikisha, which had been blown -away over an embankment into the canal. You -may read descriptions of typhoons, but until you -have seen one, I defy anyone to have the smallest -idea of its awful power.</p> - -<p>The fury of the wind was terrible. The train -stood quite still at times, unable to steam, however -slowly, against the wind, whilst the carriages -trembled and rocked on the narrow gauge with -every blast of wind, and we thought more than -once that it must be blown over. The sea was -carried in long spindrifts or lashed into brown -whirlpools; an awfully angry sea, boiling and -hungry, lashing up in mist and spray against the -breakwater we were on. And here are several -heartrending sights, for one sampan has been -washed up and completely broken on the breakwater, -whilst others are being wrecked against its -sides, and we can see the horror-stricken faces of -the men clinging in agony to it; whilst other -sampans are fast drifting on to it, and we watch -with awful fear their frantic efforts to save themselves. -Houses are unroofed or blown down, trees -bent double or uprooted as we look, hedges collapse, -crops are laid low, and we in this little -carriage are out in its midst, with nothing to break -the full fury of the elements. But even as we -begin to wonder what to do on our arrival at<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">[159]</a></span> -Yokohama, we see that the crisis is past and the -gale subsiding. At Yokohama the streets are -strewn with the dbris of the typhoon, and all vessels -in the harbour still have their steam up, should -their anchors drag. In two hours the most extraordinary -change had taken place. The waters of -the harbour had become blue, and tranquilly lapped -the shore, the sun shone out, the wind died to a -breeze. It was a perfect summer's afternoon. -The wind when we left Tokio was blowing at 768<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">[160]</a></span> -miles an hour; four hours afterwards it had fallen -to 40, and soon after died away.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_159.jpg" width="500" height="406" alt="" title="A Typhoon" /> -<div class="caption"><p>A Typhoon.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>We spend a happy afternoon in the curio shops, -at Messrs. Khn and Messrs. Welsh, whom we -consider have the best things, and then visit, with -Mr. Hall, a nursery garden on the Bluff, for we -think of having one of those prim little Japanese -gardens at home.</p> - -<p>The next morning we leave Yokohama, and -make an expedition to Kamakura, a pretty seaside -village, to see the great Diabutsu. The approach -to the Buddha is through a gateway which bears -the following beautiful inscription,—</p> - -<p>Kotoku Monastery: "Stranger, whosoever -thou art, and whatsoever be thy creed, when thou -enterest this sanctuary, remember thou treadest -upon ground hallowed by the worship of ages.</p> - -<p>"This is the Temple of Buddha, and the gate of -the Eternal, and should therefore be entered with -reverence.—By order of the Prior."</p> - -<p>And with this grand exhortation in our ears we -pass into the quiet garden, with its avenue of -cherry and plum trees, lying under the hills in the -sunshine, a perfect stillness all around, and where -we see the half-opened eyes of the colossal Buddha -bent forward, as if in passive contemplation of this -quiet scene. There under the stars, amid storm -and wind, mist or tropical sun, he has sat for ages, -apathetic, but not unconscious. The hands lie on<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">[161]</a></span> -his crossed knees, the thumbs meeting at the -finger-tips, and forming two complete circles.</p> - -<p>The Diabutsu is cast in bronze. Time and -weather, the stress of the elements, have mellowed -the bronze to the most beautiful grey blue, streaked -with pale green. To appreciate his solemn -grandeur, you must visit him again and again, and -each time he is more impressive than the last. It -is quite impossible to grasp the colossal proportions, -but these are the exact measurements:—Height, -49ft. 7in., length of face, 8ft. 5in., width -from ear to ear, 17ft. 9in. The round boss on the -forehead, which appears like a tiny white spot, is -really 1ft. 3in. The length of eye and the elevated -eyebrows about 4ft., of the lobe-distended ears 6ft. -6in., and of the nose, with its wide-opened nostrils, -3ft. 9in. The eyes are of pure gold, and the boss -is of silver weighing 30lbs. Inside, in the hollow -of the image, there is a shrine, and from the gloom -of the neck of the Diabutsu stands out in relief a -small golden image. The chanting of the priest -below, whose rhythmic tones ascend muffled to us -inside the image, mingling with the incense of the -burning joss sticks, impresses us with a religious -melancholy, when we reflect on the ideal religion -set before them by this great teacher, and the utter -indifference, even to outward forms of worship, -manifested by this people.</p> - -<p>The Diabutsu "gives such an impression of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">[162]</a></span> -majesty, so truly symbolizes the central idea of -Buddhism—the intellectual calm which comes -of perfected knowledge, and the subjugation of -all passion."</p> - -<p>Then we took jinrikishas to drive to the pretty -little Island of Enoshima—a wooded hill rising -out of the ocean and connected with the mainland -by a spit of sand. The road winds amongst the -sand dunes, along the beach of the sea-shore, where -the great waves of the Pacific, still agitated by -yesterday's typhoon, are dashing on to the sands. -Lovely pale green and cerulean tints streak the -sea, whilst naked brown figures plunge and dive -under the surf, bringing in great bunches of brown -seaweed, which they cast in shining heaps on the -sand. We pass by a fishing village, strewn with -nets hung up to dry, and large bamboo crails for -catching the fish, which we see laid out to cure in -the sun. They are bringing in the harvest too, and -women, scantily clothed, and naked children, whose -fat brown bodies look so sleek and comfortable, are -busy seated on the ground threshing out the -grain, either by pounding it with a wooden mallet, -or with a rough bamboo flail. The dull thud of -these primitive threshing machines is in all the -air, and the ground outside each hut is spread -with mats, on which piles of the clean yellow -grain are placed to dry.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_162.jpg" width="560" height="423" alt="" title="STREET OF ENOSHIMA, JAPAN" /> -<div class="caption"><p>STREET OF ENOSHIMA, JAPAN.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Charming Enoshima is in sight; its green<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">[163]</a></span> -woods, with the temple roofs peeping out, standing -far out in the ocean, its coral reefs washed by the -ocean spray. An island for legend and romance, -fit home for an idyll of medieval ages.</p> - -<p>We go across the sands amid piles of seaweed, -picking up lovely trophies of the deep in -mother-of-pearl and pink shells, until we reach -the black wooden torii at the base of the island. -What a picturesque entry into the island it is, for -we walk through the quaintest and narrowest -village street, where the upper stories of the houses -nearly meet, and where below, there is that strange -medley of the every-day life of a people carried on -in full view of the public eye. Up we climb, pass -the shops full of shells, corals and marine curiosities, -until we reach many winding flights of mossy steps. -We make a veritable pilgrimage up these, until we -emerge on to the platform of one of the many tea-houses. -There is a glorious view over the sea at -our feet, divided by its causeway of golden sands, -over this side of the Isle of Nippon with its ranges -of purple mountains, jagged-edged, that run in -slanting directions across the island. A walk -round Enoshima gives a succession of equally -pretty views, but we cannot get into the cave on -the further side because the bridge was blown -down by yesterday's furious gale. Returning to -Kamakura, we had tiffin at the Sanatorium on -the sea-shore, amongst the pines, paid a last<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">[164]</a></span> -lingering visit to the Diabutsu, and took the train -to Kōzu.</p> - -<p>There was a tiresome wait at a junction for -the up train, for as yet the railways in Japan have -but a single line, so that it was getting dusk as -we got into the tramway at Kōzu. For ten miles -we ran along a country road and through long -straggling villages, whose lights shine out into -the darkness, or show us picturesque interiors. -Past Odawara, celebrated for the manufacture of a -wondrous medicine, supposed to be a remedy for all -the ills flesh is heir too; under the ruined walls of -the Castle, scene of many bloody conflicts, until -we reach Yumoto. It is now quite dark and -raining heavily. We take jinrikishas, with three -coolies to each one, to push us up the steep mountain -road to Miyanoshita. We present a picturesque -sight, akin to weirdness, as the transparent -lights of the coolies wave in the darkness, -and six willing men push and pant, shout and -encourage one another, up the steep windings of -the mountain paths. Against the twilight of the -starry sky, I can just trace the outline of the mountains -we are winding round about and amongst, -and hear the frequent roar of falling cataracts sometimes -far below, and at others dashing spray across -the road. We feel we miss much by the darkness.</p> - -<p>After what seems a weary while, we at last reach -the Fugiya Hotel, the prettiest of wooden structures,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">[165]</a></span> -with a succession of outside glazed verandahs, and -the brilliant illumination of its electric lights go -forth to greet us in the darkness, as tired, cold, -hungry and wet, our panting coolies land us at -the steps. As a smart London coachman whips -up his horses, and draws up with a dash, so do -these coolies, regardless of even such a severe pull -as this, come up to their destination with a brisk -flourish.</p> - -<p>Miyanoshita is a fascinating place.</p> - -<p>We awoke this morning to find ourselves in the -mountains, to look down over the heavy thatched -houses of the village, and the road so far, and yet -immediately below us, where some young mothers -with their babies on their backs are waddling -along. What a quaint little place it is, perched -up in the middle of ranges of mountains, with -their green slopes as a never-changing background, -a village scooped out of their sides. The -shops are full of the wood inlaid like mosaic, and -carved as only can a naturally gifted Japanese, -into every kind of article, from a napkin-ring to -an elaborate escritoire.</p> - -<p>Any number of mountain climbs, more or less -difficult (so suited to all) can be made from -Miyanoshita. We have just returned from a -lovely expedition to Lake Hakone and the hot -district of Ojigoku. Leaving the hotel at midday -in bamboo chairs attached to poles and each<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">[166]</a></span> -carried by four coolies, we ascend the mountains. -The motion is smooth and easy, as they all keep -step together, to a melodious chorus of grunts, the -front coolies answering the hind ones.</p> - -<p>These grass mountains that we are in the midst -of, are so beautiful. They have scarcely any trees, -but their gradual slopes are covered with the pale, -sickly green of rush or bamboo grass, that imparts -to them a peculiarly pleasing, even effect. Frequently -there is a column of smoke curling up -their sides, from some hot spring, for all this -district is intensely volcanic, and at the village of -Ashinoyu, where we rest and give tea to the men, -there are numerous hot springs and baths. It is -a desolate place, and is made more so by the -clouds coming down and completely damping us -and the view. It is rather dreary jogging along -with these human ponies in a dense mist, out of -which loom palely the foremost bearers, when, as -suddenly as we came into it, the fog lifted, leaving -us the most beautiful cloud effects of white filmy -vapours, trailing low down on the mountain side, -with a patch of blue sky just beginning to show, -and the sun shining up there behind those opaque -masses of cloud and mist, making them appear so -fleecy and transparent. It is now a lovely -summer's afternoon above and around us, and -immediately afterwards we have below, an enchanting -view of Hakone and its deep blue lake,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">[167]</a></span> -so deep that, though it has been fathomed for five -miles, the bottom has yet to be found. We see -the green wooded peninsula, jutting so boldly out -into the lake, that from this distance we think it is -an island, and on this ideal spot, hidden far away -from the burdensome etiquette of public life, the -Mikado is building himself a palace, that is -approached by the beautiful cryptomeria avenue, -that also leads to Hakone. Whilst we are waiting -at the village below for our chairs and coolies to -be shipped on a boat, we "kodak" a charming -group of Japanese children; one of our coolies -actively assisted in arranging them, and I noticed -took good care to include himself in the picture, -for this useful and companionable little instrument -has become familiar even to the Japanese, and -later on the men were so pleased when we did a -group of them in the prow of the boat, smoking -and eating their rice out of bamboo baskets, with -a division for a <i xml:lang="fr" lang="fr">bonne bouche</i> of some morsels -of fish. These coolies are delightfully merry -fellows, always willing, always cheerful, whether -tired or hungry, never shirking work, and ready to -help each other, laughing and seeing the fun of -any little passing incident. Most of them speak -a few words of English, the object of every coolie -in Japan being to learn it, as they earn so much -more money from foreigners. You constantly find, -that whilst waiting, they study a blue Japanese-English<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">[168]</a></span> -phrase book, exceptionally badly compiled.</p> - -<p>We are rowing three miles across the lake in a -sampan, with an upturned prow, propelled by -some oarsmen, and which much resembles a -picture of an old Roman galley. Their wooden -oars, a long blade tied to a piece of wood, are -fixed to the gunwale, in rowlocks formed of a pin -of wood, and on this they roll over and back each -time, a clumsy but effectual movement. The -surrounding view is wondrously beautiful. The -green pointed mountains with their sharp edges -coming down directly into the lake on one side; -the other covered with shrubs and some overhanging -trees, under whose sweeping arms we -glide to the landing stage, in the lights and shadows -of a still glorious afternoon. It sounds but a tame -description, and yet in reality it is sublime, and, -for some reason hard to discover, it is absolutely -different, and because of that much more charming -than any other lake I have ever seen.</p> - -<p>We begin a long ascent, with a continued view, -looking backward, where translucent clouds float -down the mountain sides, which are mirrored -faithfully in the green waters, and as we plunge -into a dense wood of bamboos, we take our last -farewell look back at Lake Hakone. It is a -stony and steep path, cut in zig-zags through the -thick undergrowth where there is no room for the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">[169]</a></span> -long poles of the chair to turn, so we have to walk. -Suddenly we come across a little square village, -built round a wooden bath house, where the whole -population of invalids are bathing together in the -warm mineral spring.</p> - -<p>As we ascend, the scene grows wilder. Vegetation -decreases, and masses of barren rock appear. -The earth is warm and steaming, nor must you -leave the path, as these treacherous brown curling -scales of earth are only a crumbling upper crust, -over the furnace below, and lives have more than -once been lost here. The air reeks of sulphurous -fumes, a strong overpowering stench. And this -curious volcanic scene continues, until we reach -the abomination of desolation. Here, standing -above, we look far away down into a vast -cauldron of steam, that rises up and envelops us -in suffocating fumes of sulphur, so strong that, -wheezing and coughing, we have to turn backwards -to get fresh breath, so dense that we can -only dimly see the great masses of rock around -us. More often they are not rocks, but clumps of -crumbling lava, loosely welded together in -fantastic shapes, and that take the most wonderfully -bright colours from the surrounding mineral -substances, of orange, carmine, blue, madder and -brown. In one place there is a little stream, in -which the sulphur deposit is so thick that there is -a rich coating round of green, bright as malachite.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">[170]</a></span> -The boiling water of many streams swells the -vapour that rises from this fitly-named Ojigoku, or -Big Hell.</p> - -<p>We scramble and grope our way down, ever -deeper into this apparently bottomless pit, into -this boiling smoking abyss, where the evil-smelling -fumes wrap us round so effectually that we can -scarcely trace our path, and choking and blinded, -we wonder vaguely, if we shall ever emerge into -light and air once more. But after we have made -a long and devious descent, we branch off to the -left, and when we feel ourselves in comparative -safety, and in a clearer atmosphere, we turn round -to look back to see the wreathing masses of smoke -that eternally ascend from this hell. And there, -behind this blank desolation, rises at the head of -the valley the graceful acute peak of Kammurigatake, -with the dense green forests covering it from -top to bottom, formed by a thick undergrowth of -small box and andromeda japonica. It reminds -us of the hot springs of New Zealand, of those -beautiful pink and white terraces, which, alas! are -no more, where mingling as here with volcanic -rocks and steam, there is the additional charm of -a luxuriant wealth of semi-tropical vegetation.</p> - -<p>We have a very long descent to make, over the -roughest path of loose rock and stones, and across -several streams, where the obliging coolie makes a -bridge of his back, and when we have nearly<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">[171]</a></span> -reached the bottom and made the circuit of the -valley on the path cut out midway on the mountain -side, we pass round into another valley with -wide amphitheatre of mountains. It is through -the midst of these, at the end of a long vista -formed by their green slopes, that we see the -smooth waters of the Pacific, spread out like a -looking-glass in the closing afternoon light, and -beautiful as had been the views and scenery all -day, I think this glimpse of sea and mountains -exceeded all. A long winding descent to Miyanoshita -in the dusk, which we reach just as they were -sending out two messengers with lanterns, to light -us home.</p> - -<p><em>Friday, October 3rd.</em>—We went up Sengeuyama, -the wooded hill, 1000 feet above, and at the back -of the hotel, carried in a kagos or Chinese chair, a -most luxurious way of ascending a mountain. It -was a glorious morning, with not a cloud in the -sky; one of those days when you feel that everything -is beautiful, and the views of the mountains -at every zig-zag changing and appearing more -and more splendid, as at each turn we rise more -on a level with them. And then those beautiful -thickets of bamboos, the trees of delicately-pointed -maple leaves, the laurels and evergreens, the -azaleas and hibiscus, the creepers and tendrils, the -great clumps of red spiky wild lotus, of purple -everlastings, of blue lupus, and yellow snapdragon<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">[172]</a></span> -all growing in wild confusion, fresh with the -morning's dew.</p> - -<p>There is a little tea-house hung with flags on -the platform at the top, and such a view over -Odiwara Bay, and of the panorama of mountains -with their smooth, pale-green slopes, and there, -between those two peaks, in the gap, we ought to -get a view of Fujiyama, only, as she so often does, -she is hiding herself to-day behind the clouds. -No sooner do we reach the bottom than we have -to leave Miyanoshita for Yumoto, with a parting -pang of regret that our stay is so short. The -Fujiya Hotel, though kept by a Japanese, is most -comfortable, with excellent mineral baths, which -never seem so pleasant as after a long day's -excursion, nor must I forget to mention the little -Japanese waiting damsels, who giggle and waddle -about in their tightly-drawn kimonos, struggling -with the details of the French mnu.</p> - -<p>We speed quickly down the magnificent mountain -road, which we came up before in the dark. -It is cut out from the cliff, and has those glorious -views, growing grander as we descend into the -valley of the mountain, views that make Miyanoshita -the most charming of mountain resorts. -Even when we get into the tramway at Yumoto, -and travel along the plain, there is such a pretty -picture of the sea-shore, where the sea looks as -green as a lagoon at Venice. We pass again<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">[173]</a></span> -through the long-continued street of villages, -where the high thatched roofs are crowned at the -top with a cage of poles, on which tufts of -grass are growing, and through the blinds of -bamboo canes catch glimpses of the washing, the -eating, the hairdressing, and the cooking, the -every-day busy life of the little people inside. We -take the train from Kōzu to Nagoya.</p> - -<p>A most lovely journey it is, for the line runs -through and crosses a pass in the midst of the -mountains, which look radiantly beautiful with -their immense variety of foliage—dark evergreens, -mingling with the yellower autumn tints. They -are always the same, these mountains in Japan; -conical in shape, with sharp-edged shoulders -perfectly formed in miniature, rising very straight -up from the level. There are numberless waterfalls, -foaming torrents gushing down where the -valley parts a little. At Gotemba we have two -engines to the train, one behind to push, the other -in front to pull, for the pass here rises to 1500 feet. -Then we come out into an open valley where there -are thousands of little yellow paddy fields, with -many bamboo groves, whose light-green feathery -fingers wave above heavier groups of dead-green -cryptomerias; where the villages, with their heavy -black roofs, nestle under the mountains, and tea-houses -with their flag poles are perched on many -a little eminence, and endless black torii lead to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">[174]</a></span> -the temples, surrounded by groves of trees. I -had often heard of the exquisite scenery of Japan, -but this comes up to, and exceeds all expectation.</p> - -<p>We journey on. Suddenly in the sky we see -suspended a great purple cone. The base is cut -off by a sky of clouds. It is the beautiful summit -of Fujiyama.</p> - -<p>Fuji dominates the island, and you have so -many views of it from every side, that it seemed -to me that we were constantly spending our time -in looking for the cone amongst the clouds. It is -very rare to have a perfectly unclouded view of -the mountain, but this we now nearly succeeded -in doing. Perhaps it is because it is so often -veiled in clouds that the Japanese have surrounded -it with such a sacred mystery. It seems such a -familiar friend now, this cone of Fuji, for we -have seen it depicted upon numberless scrolls -and screens, on tea services and china plaques, -on cloisonn and lacquer, since we came to -Japan.</p> - -<p>This view of Fuji is superb. The mountains -break away and leave a vast plain, out of which -it sweeps up solitary, colossal. The crater at -the top looks like the jagged edges of a tooth, -down which streams of lava have streaked their -course. And as we follow the sweeping lines of -the great pyramid up 13,000 feet of height, the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">[175]</a></span> -clouds that lay half-way down, roll away. Only a -few fleecy ones float ethereally along the summit, -whilst the Sacred Mountain, deep purple pink, -stands revealed in all the glory of a sunset evening, -against a pale primrose sky, deepening into lilac -overhead. Then we realize whence the Japanese -acquire their idea of colour. Their artists are only -reproducing the realities of nature as constantly -present to them in the half tones of their island -sky and sea, and it is from such sunsets as these -that they faithfully copy the translucent shades of -rose-pink, grey-blue, lilac and apple-green, that -form the background of those beautiful cloisonn -plaques and china vases. The halo of romance -woven around this poetical mountain, the object -of reverence to thousands of pilgrims, who painfully -climb up the nine stages to enter the crater -at the top, is increased by this view of it, which -will, to me, at any moment recall the lovely -splendour of Fuji.</p> - -<p>The plain is formed of the rich alluvial deposits -of lava from the many eruptions of Fuji, and is a -splendid agricultural district, where that neat -"carpet" cultivation is seen to perfection, and -where the harvest is now in full swing. Columns -of smoke, rising from the surrounding mountain -sides, show this district is volcanic, and shocks of -earthquake are frequent all over Japan, but particularly -at Yokohama.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">[176]</a></span></p> - -<p>Soon the railway runs along the sea-shore, -where there is just room for it between the pebbly -beach and the deeply wooded mountains—a pretty -bit of travelling. We look across the pale green -bay to the little range of lilac hills opposite, and -listen to the idle lapping of the waves, and see the -sampans putting out to sea for the night's fishing, -as darkness, the quickly falling dusk of a tropical -climate, closes over all.</p> - -<p>I must say that travelling in Japan presents an -uncomfortable feature in being obliged to carry -your provisions with you, as only Japanese eatables -can be obtained at the stations. Fortunately the -distances are not great, but when it happens, as on -this occasion, that two parties, one of Germans, -besides ourselves, all dined out of paper parcels, -the car presents a very unpleasant appearance.</p> - -<p>We reached Nagoya at midnight. Two jinrikishas -bore us swiftly through the deserted streets, -all dull and dark, because the paper lanterns of -the passers-by are gone home, and there is no -attempt at street-lighting. We are sent flying -round a dark corner to be deposited before a -barred and shuttered door. There is a great noise -within, much whispering and unbolting of doors, -rather a mysterious arrival, and then a stream of -light pours forth, and shows the usual crowd of -little bowing men and women, who escort us in a -body up the polished stair to our rooms <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177">[177]</a></span> -<i xml:lang="fr" lang="fr"> la Japonaise</i>, where we sleep with the light shining -through the paper walls.</p> - -<p>We are awakened the next morning by the shuffle -of stockinged feet over the polished boards, and -one of the waddling little waiting-maids, with the -most brilliant pink and white cheeks, flicking the -dust away with a wisp of papers tied on to a stick, -two of the same escorting C. to the bath, a -wooden tub of boiling water placed on an earthern -floor.</p> - -<p>There is a delightful outlook from the glazed -screens, a European concession, which probably -will be general a few years hence, showing how -easily the Japanese assimilate all foreign improvements, -over the dark crinkled roofs across the wall -of the street, into a seed merchant's opposite, -where golden bunches of persimmons mingle with -the sample baskets of grain. A dozen pairs of inquisitive -eyes from the open balcony opposite, watch -me brush my hair. Then we breakfast in a room, -or rather, I should say, in five rooms, for the -sliding screens are all thrown back, and, free and -open as a summer-house, there are vistas of rooms -on either side; and these screens are decorated with -such artistic designs, a spray of bamboo with a -red-legged stork; a branch of crimson maple -with hanging tendrils, or a purple iris and some -water-rushes. There is a bronze vase, too, filled -with fresh wild flowers on the table. Then come<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178">[178]</a></span> -the curio vendors, and, spreading their handkerchiefs -on the floor, produce their treasures one by -one.</p> - -<p>Nagoya is celebrated for its magnificent feudal -Castle. A police emissary, with silver-mounted -jinrikishas, comes to conduct us over it, and it is -as well, as there appears to be much red tape -formality in admission to these royal domains.</p> - -<p>Across the courtyard—a typical one, where the -three yards to the gate is made by the winding -paving-stones to appear quite a long distance, we -sally forth into those kaleidoscopic streets, towards -the great white donjon-keep, with its golden -dolphins dominating the town.</p> - -<p>The Castle has three moats; the outer one, with -its green slopes and single row of fir trees, is given -up to barracks and parade grounds, for there are -upwards of 3000 troops at Nagoya, and being a -holiday, the streets are full of their white uniforms -and yellow-banded caps. The white walls of the -Castle are raised from the moat on parapets formed -of gigantic stones, and roofed with crenellated -bronze tiles, whilst at the corners rise pagoda-shaped -towers. These walls are the most wonderful -part of the Castle, for many of the stories are six -and nine feet long, and proportionately broad, and -can be traced out, as length ways, slantways, across, -they are piled up on a broad base, shelving backwards, -without cement or earth, supported by their<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">[179]</a></span> -own weight. On many of the largest corner-stones -are engraved marks and designs, to show that -they were the contribution of the Daimyos, for -the Castle was erected in 1610, by twenty barons, -to serve as a residence for Yeyasu's son. Crossing -the moat, which is dry, and used for tame deer, -over a drawbridge, we enter the courtyard -through a massive gateway.</p> - -<p>The decorations inside the palace are exquisite, -though the rooms are bare and uncared-for, and -many of the paintings are defaced. In the first -chamber, the fusumas, or sliding screens, are of -dull gold, and painted on them are the most life-like -lions, panthers, and leopards, the spots of the -latter being specially well delineated; with glaring -eyes, fierce whiskers, and lashing tails, they crouch -in life-like attitudes, ready to spring; or in another -group are mothers with their young ones gambolling -around them. In another screen the bamboo -trees have the joints of their stems faithful to life, -and an adjoining one has a straggling fir-tree, -just like one of those on the moat wall outside, -with a blinking owl perched on the topmost -branch. There are others with weeping willows, -and red-leaved maples, and pink-and-white lotus; -one in particular we noticed that had painted on it -a tiger-lily, with yellow spots, a crimson peony, a -blue convolvulus, and a white daisy, forming a -peculiarly beautiful panel. Next to this is a spray,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180">[180]</a></span> -a mass of snow-white plum blossom, against a dull -gold ground.</p> - -<p>Nor are the animals less faithfully depicted, for -there are pheasants with eyes on their tails, -wild ducks flying across a pale-blue ground, with -their flapping, outstretched wings, and webbed -feet; a stork with red legs on which the sinuous -rings are so life-like. In one room, which was -especially reserved for the use of the Shogun when -he came to visit his kinsman, the decorations are -especially gorgeous, and here there are ideal -Chinese scenes, which exactly resemble the -familiar willow-pattern plate. There is the five-storied -pagoda, the willow trees, and the high -curve of the bamboo bridge. The roofs of these -rooms are of black lacquer, inlaid with gold, -whilst the windows are made of that geometrically -carved lattice work, covered with opaque -paper.</p> - -<p>But perhaps the most beautiful thing of all is -the open wood carving on the ramma, or ventilating -screens, between the rooms, for here, that -great Japanese artist, Hidara Jingoro, has carved -the most exquisitely faithful representations of -a white crane, a tortoise, a hen with her little -ones, parrots, and birds of paradise. There is one -that excites everybody's admiration. It is a -cock perched on a drum, its beak wide open in the -act of crowing, so natural, that you expect to hear<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181">[181]</a></span> -the "Cock-a-doodle-doo." The red, erect coxcomb, -and the brown and blue iridescence of the tail -are life-like. And when we look round on this -mass of gorgeous paintings and carvings, we -marvel that their resplendent colours are undimmed -by the lapse of three hundred years, -that some are as bright to-day, as when they were -executed three decades ago.</p> - -<p>We ascend the great, gloomy, five-storied Keep, -which is built up inside on massive beams of wood, -whole tree trunks being used as supports. From -the gallery at the top we have a charming view of -the brown roofs of Nagoya, lying around the castle, -of the military prison below, where the prisoners -are exercising in the yard, of the heavy square roof -of the temple rising up majestically above the -squat houses—of the wide-reaching plain, and -the circling mountains. The precious golden -dolphins, covered over with wire netting, are above -us, glittering resplendent in the sun. They -measure eight feet in height, and are valued at -180,000 dols. One of them was sent to the -Vienna Exhibition of 1873, and great was the -despair of the citizens when, on its return voyage, -it was wrecked in the Messageries steamer, the -<em>Nil</em>. However, it was recovered from the deep, -with great difficulty, and proudly restored to its -original position.</p> - -<p>Then we went for a drive, and I am not sure<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182">[182]</a></span> -that the great centre street of Nagoya was not the -most fascinating and absorbing one that we saw in -Japan, and the whole town was charming in its -bright cleanliness and bustling streets.</p> - -<p>It is with a peculiar feeling of sadness that I -write this description of Nagoya and recall its -pleasant reminiscence, because the terrible news -has just reached us in far off China, that an earthquake -has destroyed this thriving town. It makes -one's heart ache with pity to think of those smiling -streets, that happy swarm of industrious -people suddenly left homeless, the survivors surrounded -by their dead or dying relatives, whilst -the muffled booming, the precursor of the earthquake -shocks, tell them that they might be the -next victims.</p> - -<p>In this dreadful earthquake 8000 people were -killed, 10,000 injured, and 100,000 houses destroyed. -Nagoya experienced 6600 earth-spasms, or an -average of thirty shocks an hour. Fortunately -the ancient castle—monument of an extinct -dynasty—is unharmed, saved by its massive walls, -and the decreasing size of its pagoda storeys.</p> - -<p>We left the hotel amid many "Sayonaras" -(farewells), reached the station by the drooping -avenue of willows, and, with five hours in the train, -arrived at Kioto, and settled ourselves into its -excellent new Hotel, with palatially proportioned -rooms.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183">[183]</a></span></p> - - - - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VII" id="CHAPTER_VII"></a>CHAPTER VII.<br /> - -<span class="smallish">THE WESTERN CAPITAL AND INLAND SEA.</span></h2> - - -<p>Kioto is the western metropolis of Japan, and was -the only capital from 793 until twenty years ago, -when the present Mikado re-established his supremacy -over the Shoguns, and selected Tokio as -the metropolis of the Empire.</p> - -<p>We began the next day by doing our duty by -the sights of Kioto, and commenced with His -Majesty's palace, of Gosho, for which a special permission -had been sent us. This is now the third -Imperial palace that we have visited. I think we -were foolish to come, because by this time we -might have known that there is really nothing -worthy of interest to see.</p> - -<p>The palace is enclosed by high walls and covers -an area of twenty-six acres. At the gate of "the -August Kitchen," we went through an elaborate -ceremony of inscribing our names in the lacquer -and gold tasselled visiting book of the Mikado, -whilst two exceedingly unkempt officials, in -rusty black kimonos, superintended our movements. -Of course this palace, like the others,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184">[184]</a></span> -is bare of furniture, carpets or hangings. The -fusumas, or screens are decorated with splashes -of blue paint and green mountains, or with funny -little pictures of Japanese life, drawn with a total -neglect of perspective. A lot of old women in -wicker hats were raking, with bamboo claws, His -Imperial Majesty's courtyards. The garden is -scarcely so good as the one at the Hotel, with its -pond on which floated an unpainted wooden -gondola. The whole produces an impression of -discomfort.</p> - -<p>We pass first into the Seiryoden, or "Pure and -Cool Hall," where the square of cement in the -corner was every morning strewn with earth, -so that the Mikado could worship his ancestors -on the earth without leaving the palace. Then -into the Audience hall, in the centre of which is -the Imperial throne, hung with white silken -curtains and a pattern meant to represent the bark -of a pine tree. The stools on either side of the -throne were for the Imperial insignia, the sword -and the jewel. On the eighteen steps stood the -eighteen grades into which the Mikado's officials -were divided. Then we see the Imperial study, -where His Majesty's tutors delivered lectures. -The suite of rooms called the "August Three -Rooms," where Nō performances, a kind of lyric -drama, were performed, and lastly a suite of eleven -rooms, where the Mikados, when Kioto was the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">[185]</a></span> -capital, lived and died. We see the Imperial -sitting-room with the bed-room behind, completely -surrounded by other apartments, so that no one -should approach His Majesty without the knowledge -of his attendants. This sounds perhaps -interesting enough, and having read Murray's -elaborate description we were eager to see Gosho, -but the reality is a succession of ordinary Japanese -rooms, dark and bare, without the redeeming -feature of well painted fusumas.</p> - -<p>The obnoxious janitors, notwithstanding our -credentials, obstinately refused to show us the only -thing of interest, namely the present Imperial -living rooms, on the plea that they are being now -prepared for the reception of the Heir Apparent -who arrives in a few days, and we see bales of -furniture covered with green and blue cloths, bearing -the royal insignia of the chrysanthemum, being -dragged across the inner courts.</p> - -<p>The Nijo Palace is surrounded by a moat and -pagoda-guarded wall of Cyclopean masonry. It is -undergoing repair, and we can therefore only see -the handsome outer gateway formed of lacquer -and beaten gold, and the beautifully worked gilt -fastenings to the gates, but inside the descriptions -read like a dream of beauty, which we should be -most anxious to see, were it not for the experience -we have just gone through at the other palace of -Gosho.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">[186]</a></span></p> - -<p>Kioto has its Diabutsu, its big bronze bell, its -pagodas, palaces, gardens and monasteries, but -above all it has its temples—temples large and -small, decorated and plain, dull and uninteresting. -You might easily spend a week at Kioto seeing -nothing save these, but of temples I confess we -are by this time thoroughly sick and tired. The -sight of a torii makes us turn wearily away, and -from a sāmmon (or gateway) we hastily flee. -Everyone who visits Japan ends by experiencing -this satiety of temples, a feeling induced by their -monotonous identity and entire want of originality. -Still we feel that we must visit some of the sights, -so somewhat half-heartedly we go forth towards -the Show Temple of Nishi Hongwanji, the headquarters -of the western branch of the Hongwanji -Buddhist sect, a dark massive structure. In the -courtyard is the large tree which, "by discharging -showers of water," protects the temple from fire -in the vicinity. We wander through the state -rooms, the minor shrines, and the big temple; -and in truth the decorations are marvellously -beautiful, but I will not weary you with the detailed -descriptions of lacquer-ribbed ceilings, golden -pillars, of kakemonos (hanging scrolls) over 200 -years old, of cornices wrought in coloured arabesques, -and shrines painted and carved in floral -designs. Again there are those most exquisitely -painted scenes on the sliding screens, of peacocks<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187">[187]</a></span> -and peahens seated on a peach tree with white -blossoms; of wild geese on a dead-gold ground, of -scroll patterns carved in the design of the peony -or chrysanthemum leaf and flower, nor of the angels -in full relief that gaze down upon us from the ceiling. -But I must make especial mention of the -gilt trellised folding-doors, opening back to disclose -a wintry scene of life-sized bamboo and plum trees, -and of pine with dark-spreading branches covered -with snow.</p> - -<p>We wander through the peaceful stillness of -the monastery garden, where the jostle and noise -of the thick crowding streets around comes over -the wall in a dull hum, feed the gold fishes in a -pond from the cool cloister, and climb up to a little -tower—or pavilion of the flying clouds—where, -on kneeling on the ground, we can trace a few -pencil lines on a gold ground, supposed to be the -work of the great artist, Kana Molonobii.</p> - -<p>Then, passing the Hijashi Hongwangi, which, -when finished, will be the largest Buddhist temple -of Japan, we go on through a narrow street, under -an archway, and pass into an enclosure, where -booths of gay trifles line the road running to the -Sanjūsangendo, or the temple of 33,333 images -of Kwannon, the Goddess of Mercy, where a -thousand gilt images of five feet rise in tiers above -each other, the number being completed by the -smaller effigies engraved on the face and hands of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188">[188]</a></span> -the larger ones. Near by the great Buddha, twin -to the Kamakura one, is dwarfed into a building -where his head touches the ceiling, and you can -only gaze up from underneath at his colossal -sleepy features. To the right, hung under a -belfry, is one of the two largest bronze bells in the -Island, and immediately under it is a little open -temple, where five Buddhist priests, squatted in a -semicircle, monotone the evensong. We return -home with that comfortable feeling that comes of -duty performed, and proceed to enjoy ourselves by -a drive in the dusk through the fairy lighted streets.</p> - -<p>Kioto is a fascinating place, but, as I have said, -it is not the sights that make it so. The attraction -partly lies, as it always does in Japan, in those -wonderful little brown streets, with their wide -eaved and diminutive two-storied dolls' houses, -hung with original sign posts of fans, monster -paper lanterns and gay flags, that stand out in -sharp relief down a long vista, from the purple -mountains. Kioto is on the plain surrounded by -a circle of mountains, and at the end of all the -streets, face which way you will, there is always -this effective background to the toy town. If -you mount a little way up them, you can look -back and have a panoramic view over thousands -of brown-roofed huts, presenting a perfectly level -surface, except when a temple roof, square and -dark, overshadows the others.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_189" id="Page_189">[189]</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_189.jpg" width="500" height="490" alt="" title="My carriage at Kioto" /> -<div class="caption"><p>My carriage at Kioto.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>We had thought Tokio the most fascinating -imaginable place, but, except for its grass-grown -moats, reflecting waters, and cawing rooks, Kioto -is even more enticing. The streets are narrower -and more untouched by that dreaded European -taint, showing itself at Tokio in small drapers' -shops, and cheap lamp and umbrella stores. Life -is more primitive, the people are more unsophisticated, -as we know by the little crowd, polite and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190">[190]</a></span> -interested, that attends us in our shoppings, and that -makes the dusk in the shops darker, by the blackness -of their gathering round. The gay china -shops, the chemists, blacksmiths, booksellers, the -fish and fruit stores cease not to interest us; the -walking picture, coming to meet us of a Japanese -lady with shapely, tightly-girt figure, with the baby -on her inclined back, sheltered under a paper -umbrella, charms us as much as ever. The wee -children in their blue and white kimonos or -wadded jackets, their heads shaved, with a bald -circle on the crown, just like the Japanese doll -of a toy shop; the little ten-year-old nurses -with their brown babies asleep, and heads -waddling from side to side as they shuffle along; -the ladies, in handsome dress, taking an afternoon -airing with their husbands in a double jinrikisha; -the sellers crying their goods and attracting -attention by the help of a bell, gong, drum, or -whistle: all these things, though we seem to have -been in their midst for so long, almost at times to -have lived all our lives with them, are a never-ending -source of interest. But a new charm has -been added to these, one that exceeds them all, -one that is all-absorbing. We throw temples, -palaces, gardens, sight-seeing to the winds, and -resolve to devote the few remaining hours of our -stay in Japan, to shopping and the curio shops.</p> - -<p>We drive through many winding streets and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191">[191]</a></span> -draw up in one not different to the others, and, -lifting up the black draperies, enter. There may, -perhaps, be a few bronze or lacquer articles spread -about, but nothing to indicate the priceless art-treasures -that we are presently going to see. With -hands on knees, sliding down with bows of -reverence, and the gasping produced by sucking -in of breath between the teeth, stands the proprietor, -surrounded by a background of assistants. -With deferential encouragement he leads you to -the backmost recesses of the shop, through winding -passages, across paved squares, until you come -to the prettiest little picture of a garden made out -of a courtyard of a few square feet, and here in -rooms opening out of this, surrounded by fire-proof -godowns, far away from the eyes of an inquisitive -crowd of passers-by, he shows forth his -precious treasures. This courtyard is so artfully -arranged as to deserve description. There will be, -perhaps, a clump of bamboos in one corner, a stone -lantern on one side, a piece of water with gold fish -in it in the centre, and an azalea on bamboo -supports trained round it; a bronze urn with -drinking water and a wooden scoop by it, and a -green metal stork. First of all tea is brought, and -the smoking boxes, which contain the hot ashes -in a bronze or china urn, and the bamboo trough -for the used ashes; then the real work commences. -An art museum, the labour of hundreds<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_192" id="Page_192">[192]</a></span> -of years ago, when a man devoted his life-time to -the production of one or two works of art, are laid -on the matting before you.</p> - -<p>From behind cabinets, from underneath tables, -boxes are silently produced, and from out of folds -of soft crpe or flannel, and many paper wrappers -come lovely objects, lovingly, caressingly fingered -and stroked by their owner. There are vases of -rock crystal, jade, plaques, and trays of the most -exquisite cloisonn, when a magnifying glass is -gently pushed into your hands that you may -enter into the minutest details of the minute work. -Bronzes, and satsuma china, inro or lacquer -medicine boxes, with their succession of trays for -powders, and those lovely Netsuke or carved ivories -where each wrinkle and hair, each line and feature -are so faithfully graven in the quaint heads and -groups. The prices asked are fabulous, but I -often scarcely thought that the dealer wanted to -part with his curios, he seemed so proudly fond of -them.</p> - -<p>I confess that our taste inclined often to the -baser kind of shops, where the goods were of -doubtful origin, but Japan has, in the last few -years, been so overrun with curio buyers and -Americans, that the few really antique things left -are scarce, and hard to find. The Japanese, like -the Chinese, always reserve their best things to -the last, and then somewhat reluctantly produce<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_193" id="Page_193">[193]</a></span> -them. We haunted the old shops where great -golden Buddhas sat enthroned amidst a most -miscellaneous collection—men in armour, memorial -cabinets, huge bronze vases, inlaid swords -with quaint tsuba, or sword guards, mingling -with lovely china vases, which, if modern, are -nevertheless a joy for ever to possess—to -feast your eyes on their delicate shiny surfaces -of ruby <i xml:lang="fr" lang="fr">sang-de-bœuf</i>, imperial yellow, lilac, blue, -apple-green, or rose pink, strewn with a spray -of snowy blossom or a spiky shaft of bamboo, -where little birds fly across the pale sea of colour, -or solemn storks perch beside some waving reeds.</p> - -<p>Again and again we are made to wonder how -these small shops, so meagre and unpretentious -outside, find the capital and become possessed of -such wondrous treasures. Hours you can spend -there, and hours they will be pleased to show you -these, for in Japan no one is ever in a hurry. Life -is very leisurely.</p> - -<p>The "curio fever" is upon us. To anyone who -has visited Japan the description of a Canadian -authoress is but "too intensely true."</p> - -<p>"You don't 'shop' in this country. Shopping -implies premeditation, and premeditation is in vain -in Japan. If you know what you want, your knowledge -is set aside in a moment, in the twinkling of -an eye, and your purchases gratify anticipations -that you never had, to be paradoxical. And you<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194">[194]</a></span> -never fully know the joy of buying until you buy -in Japan. Life condenses itself into one long -desire, keener and more intense than any want you -ever had before—the desire of paying and possessing. -The loftiest aims are swallowed up in this; -the sternest scientist, or political economist, or -social theorist that was ever set ashore at Yokohama -straightway loses life's chief end among the -curios, and it is at least six weeks before he finds -it again. And as to the ordinary individual, without -the guidance of superior aims, time is no more -for him, nor things temporal; he is lost in contemplation -of the ancient and the beautiful in the art -of Nippon, and though he sell his boots and pawn -his grandfather's watch, he will carry it off with him -to the extent of his uttermost farthing...."</p> - -<p>And so we felt.</p> - -<p>But of course it is the crpe and silk shops that -woman-like fascinate me most. Those lovely, -soft, crisp, textiles, in rose-pink, coral, lilac, blue, -and silver-grey, in sea-green, mignonette, and -chrysanthemum-yellow, shades that you can find -in no other country, because the secret of these -heavenly dyes is known only to the Japanese. Oh! -they are things to make your coveteousness strong, -your heart ache, unless your purse is full and deep. -Then there are the common washing crpes, with -their graceful running designs so artistically -disposed, their harmony of colouring, and of which<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195">[195]</a></span> -I order kimonos for dressing-gowns for all the -children of the family. There is a lovely crpe -with rainbow stripes, not as you who have seen -the brilliant orange-green and purple rays of the -original would imagine, for it is a white filmy texture, -with only a suspicion of pale melting zephyr -stripes, slanting across it.</p> - -<p>Then there are the silks and crpes embroidered -with blood-red autumn sprays, with butterflies, -pink dolphins and sea-shells, or panels of satin of -such exquisite workmanship, with ever recurring -views of Fuji, and hanging kakemonos and -screens and coverlets, all so beautiful, and of such -faithful artistic merit. We are shown specimens -of a newly-revived industry, handed down from -ancient dyers, where pictures rich and soft are -raised in velvet, against a pale silk or satin ground. -By an ingenious process of wires, running parallel -with the hard thread of the woof, bearing the outline -of the picture in velvet, which are, after the -dyeing and steaming cut out, these quaint pictures, -which at first you think painted, are produced. -Everything you see in Japan is art. It is brought -into the manufacture of the commonest things of -daily life, and seen to perfection in these cut velvets -and rich embroideries. It is in the air they -breathe. For even as we pass out from this rich -inner sanctum, into the open street shop, where -the crowd of customers, each seated on cushions on<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_196" id="Page_196">[196]</a></span> -the counter step, with a salesman squatted before -him, swiftly running the counters of his abaca up -and down, multiplying and dividing like lightning -by this ingenious machine, we see piles of -coloured goods, of quite common quality only one -degree less delightful in colour and design, than -those we have chosen from. I must not forget to -mention in our shoppings the photographs, which -are extraordinarily good and very cheap. It might -also be of use to someone to know that we found at -Kioto, Daimaruicha and Co., and Takashimaya -Ilda and Co., the best shops for crpes, silk, -embroideries, and kimonos, made to order, and -Nishimura for the cut velvets, these shops having -but one price, and with the goods marked in plain -figures.</p> - -<p>We get up early the next morning, for now that -we are so soon leaving Japan, we feel that every -hour is wasted that we are not out and about, -drinking in last scenes from these bewitching -streets. We direct our jinrikishas into a distant -quarter of far-reaching Kioto, into the meanest -and dirtiest of streets, where most of the shops are -full of old iron, and hung round with second-hand -goods like a pawnbroker's, but where we are told -that the real old-fashioned curio-shops, not got up -collections of curio for the circumnavigator, still -exist. I must say that they seemed full of impossible -rubbish.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_197" id="Page_197">[197]</a></span></p> - -<p>In the afternoon, somewhat satiated with buying, -we drove out to Shugaku—one of the Mikado's -summer villas. It was an intensely hot afternoon, -but the first disagreeably warm day that we have -had, as our weather has been perfect, with no -rain and sunny skies day after day. October -and November are always delicious months in -Japan.</p> - -<p>The villa consisted of an absolutely bare, undecorated, -matted, tea-house, of modest, you -might in the case of this, its royal owner, say -mean dimensions, but the garden is a gem. -From it there is a near view of purple hills, all in -little crinkled edges, running in lines one below the -other, made nearer to us by the warm still atmosphere, -whilst behind the garden rises a formal hill; -truly Japanese in its conical structure, covered with -pine trees, whose pink and purple stems gleam out -from the dark fir needles. There is the usual -figurative mile upon mile of winding paths, the -steep hills to descend and climb up by stone steps, -the familiar bridges, one with pagoda-covered -roof, and the other of bamboo and turfed, crossing -the neatly devised harbours and bays of the artificial -lake, whose banks are covered with palms, -but it is the hedges that are worth coming to see. -They are of azalea and camellia, and honeysuckle, -cut low, so that they spread out to an enormous -thickness, to a breadth of twenty feet, and it is over<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198">[198]</a></span> -these green open ramparts, that you look out on -the lovely view.</p> - -<p>We refused in coming home, though we had time -to spare, to visit any more temples, and we spent -the last evening in going to a fair, given in honour -of the God of Water. As at Tokio, where we saw -a similar festival for the God of Writing, it was held -in a special quarter. The dark, narrow streets are -outlined in coloured lamps, with arches, the light -glowing through the paper, and the varieties of -colour—red, green, blue, and pink, forming a soft -and effective illumination, not surpassed by many -more elaborate Jubilee ones. Many of the houses -are decorated with wonderful marine representations -of blue waves, with fishes and dolphins, and -fir trees placed at intervals, with more lanterns and -red paper devices. The locality is <i xml:lang="fr" lang="fr">en fte</i>, and the -entire population is thronging the streets, which we -wander delightedly through. There are performances -of monkeys and dogs proceeding, and a -crowd outside trying to look over the partitions; -geishas, with the accompanying twang of the -Samisens, are going through their slow performances -behind the open bars. Children are flattening -their noses against the glass cases of the confectioners', -with their sweetmeats and temptingly -sugared cakes, or group round the vendors of paper -toys stuck on pieces of wood, whilst the women -gaze as longingly at the cheap combs, tawdry hair-pins,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199">[199]</a></span> -and gaudy flowers, laid out under the hawkers' -glaring oil lamps. There are booths for the sale -of cheap soap, cutlery, sandals, glass, jewellery, -and candles. The tea-houses are doing an enormous -trade, and the naturally contented people -look supremely happy.</p> - -<p>We left Kioto to pay a flying visit to Osaka on -our way to Kobe. Each town seems prettier than -the last, and Osaka is no exception. Our chief -object in going there was to visit the Arsenal, and -according to the special instructions of the Minister -of War, we were most courteously received by the -chief, Colonel Ota, and given tea at his official -residence before being conducted over the arsenal.</p> - -<p>We are much struck that instead of having -to teach Japan, there is something that we can -learn from her. Her civilization, coming, as it -has, so late in the decade, breaking in suddenly -upon centuries of dark ages, she has benefited by -the experience of other nations, and constructed -her civilization on the best systems of other -countries. Here in this arsenal we see the newest -improvements of science in machines of every -nation. Some are from England, some from -Italy, France, or Germany. The Arsenal is in -beautiful order and keeps employed a large -number of workmen. They manufacture their -own cannon, and we passed through the large -workshops, the smelting furnaces, and saw mouldings<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200">[200]</a></span> -and castings, the making and filling of -cartridges. The arsenal is inside the outer moat -or glacis of the castle, and, with canals and rivers, -has through water communication to the sea and -to the forts on the coast.</p> - -<p>It is this rapid civilization, of which the -arsenal is only an example, that fills the traveller -with admiration. Japan was only opened to -foreigners in 1868, and with the fall of the last -Shogun and the beginning of the present Mikado's -reign European customs rapidly spread. Some -say that Japan has gone too fast, and has absorbed -and not digested sufficiently the forms of civilized -life. The Japanese went to Prussia for a constitution, -and call their Parliament the Diet; to -England for their railway system, which was built, -organized, and worked at first by English engineers -and firemen. They went to France and -Germany for an army organization, borrowing -their blue and scarlet infantry uniforms with -white leggings from the French, and their artillery -uniform of blue and yellow from Germany. To -France again for their culinary art; for which these -Japanese have a latent talent, making excellent -cooks. To England again for her model of Court -etiquette and nobles' titles, and then again to -Germany for medicine. The great reaction that -followed naturally in the course of this rapid -innovation is not yet dead. The struggle is still<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_201" id="Page_201">[201]</a></span> -going on, as one can easily see, but a few years -hence the revolution will be complete, and Japan -will cease to be so intensely fascinating to -foreigners. It presents, perhaps, the most wonderful -page in the history of the world: this deposition -of the Shogun, the reinstatement of the old -dynasty, a great revolution in a remarkable intelligent -country, perfectly bloodless, of short -duration, and changing the whole face and destinies -of the land.</p> - -<p>But these Japanese civilize so fast, that now -there is scarcely a European employed in their -State departments. They are very proud of this, -and gradually European agents for their steamships, -companies, the managers of banks and -commercial houses are being dismissed, or superseded -by Japanese, who take the management -into their own hands.</p> - -<p>But to return to Osaka. If the castle at -Nagoya is so well worth seeing, this one of Osaka -is equally so, for it is the exact counterpart of the -other, only minus the keep and the dolphins. -There are the same outer and inner moats, the -same white plaster walls edged with crenellated -bronze tiles, resting on stone walls, guarded at the -four corners with those square towers, loopholed -in several storeys; but I think that the perfectly -gigantic stones of the walls are even more colossal -than at Nagoya, for there are several opposite the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_202" id="Page_202">[202]</a></span> -entrance by the gateway and the guard-room, that -measure at least twelve feet square. It will always -remain one of the wonders of Japan, how these -stones, with the primitive appliances of the earlier -Shoguns, were ever placed in position. The open -square of the inner moat is now a garden, and the -palace has been used to accommodate the General -and his staff. It is worth climbing up to the top of -the walls for the splendid view over the plain, always -bordered by those chains of mountains, that run as -a prickly backbone from north to south of Japan.</p> - -<p>Osaka is a charming town. It is called the -Venice of Japan, and with its flowing rivers and -canals intersecting the streets, its high, arched -bridges thrown across on a single sweep, its grassy -banks and avenues of weeping willows, it is fitly -likened to that Queen City of the sea. The -houses are built on piles projecting over the water, -and narrow passages in between, lead down to the -stone steps, where there are multitudes of boats.</p> - -<p>To stand on one of the bridges and watch the -ceaseless ebb and flow of the changing stream of -life, is a dream of delight, only to be compared to -standing on the Bridge of Galata at Constantinople. -Blue-coated coolies, with their bare brown -legs, roped to heavy carts, with their encouraging -grunts; itinerant sellers slung with bamboo trays -of vegetables; jinrikishas by the hundred, pedestrians -jostled from side to side, closed sedan chairs,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_203" id="Page_203">[203]</a></span> -from behind the curtains of which peer out priests -whose way is cleared by running attendants, for it -is a day of ceremony, with much coming and -going from the temples—all this kaleidoscopic -stream, accompanied by the warning cries, and the -dull thud of the echoing wood pavement, is what -we see. And then look up and down the river, -with a vista of bridges, and see the irregular mass -of brown houses, winding round the bend of the -stream, with poles on the roof, hung with waving -blue cottons, placed there to dry, and the overhanging -balconies, from which men are fishing. -And then the scenes of river life—the brown shiny -figures bathing and plunging in a cool bath, the -hundreds of sampans moored by the banks, where -reside a large aquatic population, and the high-peaked -prows of others, which, propelled along by -six oarsmen, again remind one of the gondolas of -Venice. There are other sampans, which, with -one square brown sail set, come skimming down -the canals before the afternoon breeze. Yes, -Osaka is a charming place, and these river scenes -passed in crossing the bridges, add to the never-ending -joys of the dark, narrow streets, compressed -on to the restricted peninsulas of land.</p> - -<p>Having done our duty by the arsenal, and to -our good constituents at Sheffield, we sit out and -have tea on the balcony of the hotel, and then go -for a prowl in the dusk round the streets.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204">[204]</a></span></p> - -<p>Then succeeded one of those lovely evenings. -I shall never forget those sunsets and twilight -evenings, with their pale, washed skies, that we -had in Japan. They only last for a short half -hour, but they are entrancing. If you watch carefully, -you may see the shadows lengthening, but -after the brightest and hottest afternoon, suddenly -the colour of the sun seems to go out of everything, -and in its place steal up soft shadows, the -vista of streets grow dim, and darkness falls into -the little open shop fronts, whilst the sky is -suffused with the palest wash of lilac or saffron. -The jinrikisha bulbous lights come out, one by -one, like glow-worms, and the single lamp lights a -dark interior. And then as we pass across some -street, which lies to the west, we see a blaze -of orange, lying low on the horizon, where the sun -has just dipped. It becomes cold and chilly for -an hour, and then begin the fairy scenes of night, -in a Japanese town.</p> - -<p>It is an hour in the train from Osaka to Kobe, -where we arrived at eight o'clock.</p> - -<p>Kobe is a pretty seaport, girt round, close -at hand, by great mountains, up into which -the streets run. It is too cosmopolitan and -European to be very interesting. But from the -handsome Oriental houses, with their pale buff -and grey tints, the deep balconies with green -blinds of the foreign consulates on the Bund—from<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_205" id="Page_205">[205]</a></span> -the curio shops, Europeanized like Yokohama, -you can pass into the quaintest and -brightest native bazaar, where from feeling yourself -in Europe (especially if you are staying at the -French Oriental Hotel), you can suddenly plunge -back again into native Japan. We find the -steamer of the Nippon Company in quarantine, -by reason of a cholera death on board and coming -from Shanghai, an infected port; so we have to -wait for two days.</p> - -<p>On one afternoon we went up to the waterfall -in one of the green mountains, crowned with -straggling pine trees, to see sunset over the harbour. -After having hovered round and inspected -half the gold Buddhas for sale in Japan, now that -we have reached the last place of departure, we have -at length bought one. Of course, directly we had -done so, we immediately saw a much better one in -an adjacent shop. I cannot help feeling that it is -a matter for thankfulness that we are leaving this -seductive country, not ruined, it is true, but greatly -impoverished!</p> - -<p>I was glad that to the end the enchantment -continued, and we shall carry away the memory of -that last evening in Japan on board the Japanese -Mail Company's steamer, the <i>Saikio Maru</i>. This -line is excellent and the ships the perfection of -comfort.</p> - -<p>We saw the sunset from the deck, behind the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_206" id="Page_206">[206]</a></span> -peaked mountains of Kobe, with their dragon-armed -fir trees outlined atop, and against the -hundred masts of a fleet of sampans, the pale -grey-green sky so deliciously soft and milky. -There was a little white Japanese man-of-war -mysteriously covered over, and ships of all nations -coming from all parts of the world, in port; and -from over the dark waters of the harbour, comes -the low crooning chant from the sampans, towing -in a huge junk.</p> - -<p>As the darkness gathered the lights from Kobe, -came out against the sable background of lofty -mountains clustering thickly along the Bund, and -reflecting shining dots in the water, whilst arcs of -light march up the ascending roads. Black monsters, -marked by red and green eyes, are darting -about the harbour, whilst puffing steam launches, -black lighters, and oar-propelled sampans are dimly -seen. Over this bewitching scene rises a crescent -moon, with a trailing path of silver on the waters, -and in our last view of Japan, as is only right, -there are the jinrikisha lights on shore, drawn by -their patient human horses, their soft quivering -lights running swiftly, hither and thither, up and -down.</p> - -<p>We have been for the last twenty hours on the -Inland Sea of Japan. I have spent the whole day -on the bridge or in the bows of the <em>Saikio Maru</em>, -and the sea in its incomparable beauty surpasses<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_207" id="Page_207">[207]</a></span> -all ideas formed by written pictures. It is a succession -of the most perfect inland lakes, varying in -breadth from forty miles to a few yards, and with -mountains rising around the shores. These mountains -have a peculiar look that I have seen nowhere -else so marked. They have great zig-zags of sands -running up and down their sides, indicated by a -sparse vegetation. It gives to them a mottled and -zebra appearance, and this feature is common to -them all. Many of their castle-like crags are -fringed with fir trees, whilst often their sides are -deeply terraced to the water's edge, and planted -with paddy and sweet potatoes. Little brown -thatched villages, with their big roofs crowding -down over the mud walls, lie hidden up the many -inlets and winding channels, or nestle on the beach -of the sea-shore.</p> - -<p>Time and again we look back on the undulating -track of our course, and cannot see the winding -entrance now shut out by islands. We look -forward; there is a rounded shore. It is a perfect -lake. Just as we enter the narrowest and therefore -most beautiful passage, the Captain points out a -barren cone, well ensconced behind several mainlands -of islands. Not so very long hence we -shall be passing underneath, but on the other side -of that mountainous peak, and so it goes on, one -intricate strait succeeding another.</p> - -<p>The Inland Sea is a long procession of islands.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_208" id="Page_208">[208]</a></span> -The Japanese reckon several thousands, but it -would be an impossible task to count them, as one -by one they unfold themselves to us, as we steam -among their fantastic shapes. For there are islands -of every imaginable form and size, square and round -with sugar-loaf cones, or extinguisher tops with -castellated summits, or small and four-sided like a -floating haystack. Some are so large that they are -like the mainland, and others mere thimble points. -Here, there are three tiny islands formed of three -little rocks, with a tuft of palms, and joined by a -spit of sand; there, a barren heap of sand with a -solitary fir tree on the top; or, again, it is a mountain -island with deep evergreens.</p> - -<p>Hundreds of junks come sailing by, with the -pleasant swish of the water against their keels, -whilst even here they have screens of paper, covering -the wooden trellises of their sides. They are -a perpetual delight, these curious whimsically-fashioned -vessels, with their ancient prows standing -high out of the water, recalling as they do the -old prints of the fleet of the Spanish Armada, of -which they are exact reproductions. Their one -square sail is attached to a single mast, and pulls -up and down like a curtain on running strings, and -the black patch sewn on it denotes the owner's -name.</p> - -<p>What makes the Inland Sea so beautiful? The -Japanese themselves have no name for it, nor have<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_209" id="Page_209">[209]</a></span> -their poets ever sung its praises. I suppose we -must say it is the innumerable islands, though -many of these are the reverse of beautiful in themselves. -Or is it the great ocean steamer threading -so swiftly the successive intricate windings and -snake-like passages? No. I think it is perhaps -the ceaseless variety. Every minute the scene -changes; it is never the same for more than a few -seconds, and is often so beautiful that you want to -look on both sides at once. Certainly in the -course of our many wanderings, we have never been -more pleased than with this Inland Sea. All the -morning the sky was overcast, and a purple haze -rested lightly on the mountains, and the sea was -pale green. But in the afternoon, just as we -reached the most charming part by the northern -course, the sun broke through, and we had the -long afternoon shadows, with softened sunlight, on -this scene of rare beauty.</p> - -<p>We have had, too, a wonderful conjunction of -pleasures in a superb sunrise, and a more exquisite -sunset in one day. This morning at Kobe I saw -sunrise. At six o'clock the sky was heralded with -crimson glory. To-night the sun, as it always does -in these Eastern latitudes, sinks suddenly—a golden -ball into an orange bed. It is going, going slowly, -until gone behind that purple range, and just as -it is dying the symmetry of the orb is cut into -and spoilt by a jutting rock on the mountains.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_210" id="Page_210">[210]</a></span> -Then, whilst darkness falls over the land, the -golden bed begins to glow and palpitate with -colour, and spreads and spreads, until the exquisite -pink, and lilac and green, melt into the cobalt -vault above. The sea is extended in a tremulous -sheet of dazzling gold, and the black prows and -the figures on the junks are cut in Vandyck relief -out of this gilded background. The silver moon -rises over a lighthouse on the other side of the -ship. Soon little mackerel clouds separate themselves, -and float over the sky, and as we watch -a ruddy glow succeeds, growing blood-red, and -bathing sky and sea in a crimson flood, which dies, -oh! so lingeringly and wistfully into purple darkness.</p> - -<p>Nor is this all, for by-and-by, as we are looking -over the bulwarks, perhaps still a little awe-bound -by this superb display of nature, a great, green, -electric wave rises up from the dark sea, thrown -aside by the ships' bows, and breaks away in -gleaming particles. It is the brilliant phosphorescence -of the spawn of the sardine, which in daytime -is spread out like red dust upon the waves. Sometimes -it is so bright that the whole sea is alight, -and in passing a channel ships have to stop, being -unable to see the coast.</p> - -<p>At two o'clock in the morning we stop to coal -at Shimonoseki, in the straits between the main -island of Nippon and that of Kyushu. A party<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_211" id="Page_211">[211]</a></span> -of geishas, or dancing girls, come on board and -go over the ship, and I get up in time to see a row -of little policemen with their coloured lanterns -going down the gangway.</p> - -<p>The next day, at midday, we again come into -an even more beautiful inland channel. Islands -of emerald green are seen across a white-flecked -sapphire ocean on a glorious day—a line of -white creamy foam denting the black rock-bound -coast, above which rise volcanic strata of grey -and black cliff of the most wonderful formations, -deformed and twisted into spinular columns and -basaltic contortions, and the unwieldy mass of the -huge ship is made to double round sharp angles, -and avoid the conical islands sticking so irritatingly -out in the mid-ocean passage. In one place -there is a lighthouse towering on a rock so -rugged and steep, that no path can be cut in -the cliffs, and we see the derrick and the basket -which are used for letting people up and down, -from the boats to the platform of the phare.</p> - -<p>We are pointed out the place, where, in this -far-distant island of Japan, Franois de Xavier, -in 1549, first landed to try and Christianize the -natives. We are in an inner channel. Far, far -away, beyond two grey islands on the sky line, -lies Corea. Whichever way we look there is a -dotted circuit of islands, always of those whimsical -shapes. Occasionally, miles ahead, one little<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_212" id="Page_212">[212]</a></span> -island will stand all solitary amid the ocean, or -in another you can see the half that has fallen -away, leaving a clear cut scar, an abrupt termination -to the island. But the most curious of all -is an enormous bell-shaped rock, standing erect -in the ocean with a perfect arch through it.</p> - -<p>Captain Connor, the best and most genial of -commanders, puts the ship about that we may -"kodak" it, and by degrees the slit of light opens -out into a perfect archway.</p> - -<p>Over the archipelago of islands, under a green -mountain, lies Nagasaki, and we find an entrance—a -blind and mysterious one—into its harbour.</p> - -<p>The harbour of Nagasaki is very beautiful. It -is "long and narrow, winding in among the -mountains like a Scotch firth." Every separate -mountain is terraced in green circles down to the -water's edge, and in each little conical hill the -circles get narrower at the top. In some, there are -wooded knolls crowned by a chapel, with winding -stone steps, that lead up from the black torii on -the banks, where prayers are offered for sailors -and the safe return of the fishing junks. We -pass at the entrance the round island of Pappenburg, -where we can still see the flight of steps, -down which the Christians were thrown into the -sea 300 years ago. We get safely past the -quarantine station, pitying a British ship lying -bound, with the yellow flag hoisted on her mast.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_213" id="Page_213">[213]</a></span> -There are red lights, in the shape of a cross, -strung from the masts of a sunken vessel across -our passage, for last week the captain of this 400-ton -brig took out the ballast, and a few hours -afterwards she suddenly heeled over and sank, -drowning the captain's wife, who was in the cabin, -and the first officer.</p> - -<p>As we breast this landed-locked harbour, under -the opal hues of a delicate sunset, we give to it -the palm (always excepting Sydney) over all -other harbours. At the head of the bay we see -the town and the handsome houses of the consulates -on the Bund, and above that again many -more pleasantly situated houses, equally handsome -and belonging to missionaries.</p> - -<p>I do not wish to make any observations on the -missionary question, which, without special knowledge, -it would be wrong to speak of, but I must -say that we have never heard any <em>resident</em> of any -foreign country speak a single word in favour of -the missionaries. On the contrary, we are struck -how they generally condemn them, I hope unjustly, -as mischievous, idle, and luxurious.</p> - -<p>As we come to our buoy opposite the town, -thousands of lights, running out in zig-zag lines -into the harbour, seem to come out with one -accord, creeping in scattered dots of fire up the -mountain sides, and there with these myriads of -twinkling lights, winking and blinking at us like<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_214" id="Page_214">[214]</a></span> -a thousand eyes, and with the dull splash of oars -in the water, we get such unrestful sleep as is -possible on a ship in port. Now we can well -imagine the scene described thus:—</p> - -<p>"Every year, from the 13th to the 15th of -August, the whole population of Nagasaki celebrate -the Bon Matsuri, or the Feast of the Dead. -The first night all the tombs of those who died in -the past year are illuminated with bright-coloured -paper lanterns. On the second and third nights -all the graves without exception are so illuminated, -and the families of Nagasaki install themselves in -the cemeteries, where they give themselves up, in -honour of their ancestors, to plentiful libations. -The bursts of uproarious gaiety resound from -terrace to terrace, and rockets fired at intervals -seem to blend with the giddy human noises the -echoes of the celestial vault. The European -residents repair to the ships in the bay to see -from the distance the fairy spectacle of the hills, -all resplendent with rose-coloured lights.</p> - -<p>"But on the third night, suddenly, at about -two o'clock in the morning, long processions of -bright lanterns are seen to descend from the -heights, and group themselves on the shore of -the bay, while the mountains gradually return to -obscurity and silence. It is fated that the dead -embark and disappear before twilight. The -living have plaited them thousands of little ships<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_215" id="Page_215">[215]</a></span> -of straw, each provisioned with some fruit and -a few pieces of money. The frail embarkations -are charged with all the coloured lanterns which -were used for the illumination of the cemeteries; -the small sails of matting are spread to the wind, -and the morning breeze scatters them round the -bay, where they are not long in taking fire. It -is thus that the entire flotilla is consumed, tracing -in all directions large trails of fire. The -dead depart rapidly. Soon the last ship has -foundered, the last light is extinguished, and the last -soul has taken its departure again from this earth."</p> - -<p>The next morning we were ashore before -breakfast to see the fish market, for Nagasaki is -one of the largest fishing ports in the world, and -it has been proved that there are 600 specimens -of fish brought into this market, by a gentleman -who has drawn them and written a book on the -subject.</p> - -<p>Nagasaki has several canals, and is a quaint little -town developed from a fishing village, but with -nothing of much interest in it. We spend the day -as usual in the shops, plunging with a desperation -born of the feeling that it is really our last chance -of buying in Japan; we are in an agony of fear up -to the last minute lest our purchases should not -arrive before the steamer sails at 4 o'clock.</p> - -<p>And it is in the dull light of a clouded afternoon -that we glide out of the beautiful harbour of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_216" id="Page_216">[216]</a></span> -Nagasaki, and in a few hours even the coast line -is lost to us, and fair Nippon, the Land of the -Rising Sun (such an appropriate name for the swiftly -progressing Island Empire) is a remembrance of -the past. Bright memories will linger with us in -a medley dream, of rosy sunsets, of clear skies in -those marvellous pale washes, of gaudy temples -with their moss-grown steps, hallowed by the -solemn hush around, mingling with the pictures -of those queer, dark little shops, of tiny gardens -comprised in tiny courtyards, of gentle little men -and women in flapping cotton garments, of golden -lacquer, red and black, of gorgeous kakemonos, -bronzes, cloisonn, of delicately tinted textures, and -above all of solemn gilt Buddhas, seated on lotus-leaved -pedestals, and gleaming at us from out -dark corners.</p> - -<p>We pass out into the grey space of the Yellow -Sea.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_217" id="Page_217">[217]</a></span></p> - - - - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VIII" id="CHAPTER_VIII"></a>CHAPTER VIII.<br /> - -<span class="smallish">THE YELLOW LAND.</span></h2> - - -<p>The turbid orange-coloured waters of the great -Yangtze are around us—"the river of the golden -sands," far too poetical a name for the muddy -waters, that with a strong current swish and eddy -against the ship's side.</p> - -<p>The spirit of travel that rises strong within you -as you approach the landing to a new country, is -discouraged by that thin line of flat, ugly land, -which is all we see on that dull October morning, -through a mist of rain, of the coast of China.</p> - -<p>The Yellow Land! Rightly named, indeed. -The sea is yellow, the rivers are yellow, the land -is yellow, the people, too, are yellow—and the -Dragon Flag is yellow. Yellow, too, might China -be with gold if only her rulers, the mandarins, -would let her people give scope to their abilities, -develop the rich resources of an as yet barely -touched country, and strike ahead among the -nations of the world.</p> - -<p>We had anchored at the Saddles, some little<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_218" id="Page_218">[218]</a></span> -Islands with a fancied resemblance to that equine -article, and then moved up with the tide, opposite -to the fleet of sampan masts at Woosung; but -still the water on the bar is too low, and they -whistle for a steam tug to take us off the Saikio -Maru, and up fifteen miles of the deadly uninteresting -reaches of the Wung-Poo—the last tributary -of the Yangtze—to Shanghai.</p> - -<p>What a mighty river this Yangtze is. The name -signifies the Child of the Ocean, and the Chinese -have various others for it, such as "The Father of -Rivers," "The Girdle of China." "It is the richest -river in the world—richest in navigable waters, -in mighty cities, in industrious human beings, in -affluent tributaries, in wide margins of cultivated -lands of inexhaustible fertility. This vast expanse -of turpid fresh water is saturated with the loam of -fields 1500 miles away." The Yangtze rises in -Central Asia, and drains an area of 600,000 square -miles of Midland China.</p> - -<p>We pass hundreds of junks, the quaintest ships -afloat in the world, with their sides decorated with -brilliant blue and red frescoes, and sails of bamboo -matting; the all-seeing black and white eye is in -the bow of the boat, for no Chinese junk would -sail without this occult protection.</p> - -<p>Lost to us are the beauties of the palm and -flower-covered Bund, the pride of Shanghai (on -this first occasion), for we land in a drenching rain,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_219" id="Page_219">[219]</a></span> -and seek shelter in a dirty jinrikisha lined with -green and red oilskin, and drawn by a feeble -coolie—and this began the first of our disadvantageous -comparisons between China and Japan. -By all means let everyone visit China first, with -its dirty mud villages, devoid ever of picturesqueness, -its swarming, grasping, sullen people, and -leave Japan—dear, clean, little Japan, with its -picturesque streets, and charming, willing little -fairies to the last. From that moment of landing -I took a repugnance to China, and the more I saw -of it the more the dislike grew.</p> - -<p>An hour after reaching Shanghai, we were told -of a steamer leaving for Tientsin immediately—a -cargo boat, it was true, but the captain was willing -to take us. The last bale of goods was being -lowered into the hold, the Blue Peter flying at her -masthead; a hasty decision being necessary without -more reflection, and, being most anxious to push on -to Peking, we embarked on board.</p> - -<p>The <em>Chng Ping</em> is a Chinese collier of 500 tons, -trading between the coast ports, and with a single -cabin for a chance passenger. A glance was -sufficient to show us the fate in store for us for -the next few days, but it was then too late. As -we scudded out into the Yellow Sea, in a storm -of wind and rain we began to suffer. The horrors -of that long night are yet like a bad dream. We -heard bell after bell strike, and thought that dawn<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_220" id="Page_220">[220]</a></span> -would never break, for the <em>Chng Ping</em> rolled to -desperation, shipping heavy seas, whilst the wind -blew like a hurricane through the "alloway" under -which was our cabin, blowing showers of spray in -at the door, while on closing it we were suffocated. -We were unable to move, for it was impossible to -stand, and in total darkness, for the matches had -early disappeared amid the chaos of articles on -the floor, which we helplessly heard rolling about -and bounding against the walls. Nor was this the -worst; for the rain and spray leaked through the -woodwork of the cabin, and soon our berths and -clothes were saturated, and deadly sick, with no -dry place in which to place our heads, we lay -drenched through the weary hours of that dreadful -night.</p> - -<p>It was a sorry sight, a scene of wreckage and -despair, that good Captain Crowlie looked in upon -the next morning, when we begged to be put -ashore anywhere, at any cost, rather than spend -such another night on board. He was so kind to -us, taking us up and establishing us in his own -cabin on the hurricane deck, where we passed the -remainder of the voyage.</p> - -<p>For the past few days we had been crossing the -stormy Gulf of Pechele, with the now grey, now -purple, coast-line of the great province of Chihli to -port. It is late on the fourth afternoon that we are -on the bridge with the captain, all anxiety to know<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_221" id="Page_221">[221]</a></span> -whether we shall cross the bar at the mouth of the -Peiho to-night, for he fears that we are just two -hours too late to catch the flood tide.</p> - -<p>The entrance to the Peiho is most extraordinary; -for there is no sign of land, no banks -visible to indicate that it is a river, but only the -bulbous buoy of the lighter opposite the bar, -rising above the horizon, growing clearer every -minute. It is determined to make a desperate -effort, and everybody is on the alert; officers at -their various posts, the engineer putting on all -steam, the steering-gear connected to the upper -bridge, whilst the leadsman, a quaint Chinese figure -perched out on an overhanging gangway, is set to -work. At each call the water gets shallower, and -decreases at every throw from fifteen feet to thirteen -feet down to nine, and then the flat bottom of -the <em>Chng Ping</em> ensconces itself comfortably on -the bed of mud, and the fatal "Let go anchor" -sounds from the bridge. We stay there for the -night, a sudden silence falling on the ship in the -silver moonlight, save for the convulsive sobbing of -the engines, giving forth their last oppression of -steam. Alas! we shall not sleep in Tientsin to-night.</p> - -<p>At 2 o'clock in the morning the commotion, -as we get under weigh, begins afresh, and no sleep -is possible after that, for there is the frantic whirring -of the steering-gear just outside the cabin,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_222" id="Page_222">[222]</a></span> -as the sharp commands from the bridge, make the -wheel race from port to starboard. We stop opposite -the Taku Custom House, and whistle ever -louder and more angrily for the sleeping officer, -who eventually comes reluctantly on board. And -then in the moonlight we glide by the crumbling -banks, past mud villages, silent as the grave, lying -in deep shadows, until morning glimmers in the -purple red of the sky, and we pay our morning -orisons to the rising sun, in its glory, over the well-cultivated, -intensely flat plains, and the cracked -mud banks of the great Peiho.</p> - -<p>The navigation of this river is the most wonderful -series of nautical evolutions. The steamers -are especially built with flat bottoms for the -service, and must not draw more than ten feet of -water. It is without exception the most exasperating -bit of navigation, calling forth the anathemas -alike of captain and passengers. There is -first of all the bar, where at high water there is -often only from ten to eleven feet. Here it is -possible to wait for several days before there is -enough water for a steamer to cross, and in most -cases the cargo has to be taken out to lighten -the ship on one side, and replaced on the other, or -again sometimes it may be too rough for the -lighters to come alongside. Then commence the -windings, so sharp that steam is shut off, whilst the -bows of the ship are across the stream, and the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_223" id="Page_223">[223]</a></span> -stern is all but on the bank, the dangers of going -aground being considerably increased by the shallowness -of the water. To give an idea of the serpentine -course of the river—a steamer which we -passed in a bend on the port side, two hundred -yards further on will be to starboard. The effect -produced by this is, that the large sails of the -sampans are a succession of ships sailing inland, -in contrary directions.</p> - -<p>We pass the mud forts of Taku, where the great -battle of 1860 took place, when the allied forces -were on their march to Peking. The Chinese idea -of fortifications, as a rule, consists largely of walls of -mud with a hard battened surface, and these forts -are intended for the protection of the Peiho, but -really their best one rests in the bar at its mouth. -There is the embankment yonder of China's only -railway. It runs from Taku to Tientsin. Fancy -a country of four million square miles, with a population -of as many millions as there are days in the -year, with but one single railway of a few miles! -Yet such is the case; China is still in the shadow -of the dark ages.</p> - -<p>The morning mists gather into a thin vapour -and roll upwards, showing miles of fields, cultivated -like kitchen gardens, interspersed with mud villages, -where the houses are made of wattles plastered -over with the earth they stand on, with chimneys -formed of a cone of mud, and paper windows. In<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_224" id="Page_224">[224]</a></span> -wet weather and floods these houses often partially -dissolve, or subside altogether. But then they are -so easily rebuilt. Here the urchins come out and -revel in the murky wash in our wake, whilst the -sampan propellers push hurriedly off from the -bank, lest we land them, as indeed we did one, -high and dry after our swell had subsided. Hundreds -of coolies are trudging along, with their -bamboo poles slung across their shoulders, whilst -others squatted on the ground occupied with that -<span class="smcap">B.C.</span>, or ancient Eastern method of irrigation, the -automatically worked water-wheel.</p> - -<p>We now have the disagreeable excitement of -going aground, a gentle bump on a flat bank, -where we stick fast, and recall all the stories -which we have been hearing, of steamers staying -aground for a week or ten days. Meanwhile the -screw churns away at the liquid mud, and a crowd -collects on the causeway above, and yet we remain -fast. It is after half an hour's manœuvring that -we get off and proceed through the few more perilous -bends still left, with a few more hair-breadth -escapes. We see the tall chimneys, covering -a large area, of the Arsenal, and then the Pagoda, -with its white umbrellas, overlooking the fort and -military exercise ground for the troops, and then -we are nearing Tientsin. It is pleasant in the -first view of Tientsin to be greeted by a familiar -remembrance of England, in the towers of a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_225" id="Page_225">[225]</a></span> -miniature Windsor Castle, the Victoria Hall of -the English Settlement, that tower above the dust-coloured -hovels. It is in strange contrast to the -two cages on the banks, fixed on the top of tall -bamboo poles, where are seen the heads of two -criminals. Doubtless they were executed on the -spot where the crime was committed, as is the -Chinese custom.</p> - -<p>We anchor in the river, and amid a deafening -roar, and the shoving, scraping and pushing of -hundreds of filthy sampans, we land on the Bund -of Tientsin, and are settling into the somewhat uninviting -quarters of the Astor House, when Mr. Byron -Brennan, H. M.'s Consul, kindly sends for us, and -in an hour we are installed in luxury, and have -washed away the unpleasant reminiscences of our -journey across the Yellow Sea in a collier.</p> - -<p>The English Consulate looks out over the -Bund, but it is such a different Bund to the usual -one of handsome houses and gardens touching -the water's edge. This one is piled up with -merchandise; great bales of goods, covered with -matting, are stacked under the trees or strewn -about the ground, and through the wide-opened -windows come all day the shouts and cries of the -strong-limbed coolies, as they lade and unlade the -ships. A strange silence falls over the busy -scene of the day, at night. But in another month -or two the Bund will be a model of neatness,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_226" id="Page_226">[226]</a></span> -swept and clean, and all this bustling scene will -be hushed under the spell of winter, for the Peiho -freezes in the end of November or beginning of -December. Merchants are now hurrying to send -away the last of their merchandise, and residents -are receiving their last supplies before the river is -closed. During those winter months Tientsin is -entirely cut off from the outer world, save for the -mails which are brought overland. No one can -enter or leave the town to go south, and business -is at a standstill until spring breaks up the ice. -This isolation comes suddenly, for we heard of a -steamer that went aground below Tientsin, and in -one night was frozen in by a coat of ice a foot thick. -A British gunboat is anchored under the Consulate, -sent up since the late riots at Wuhu, and it is a -great comfort to the English residents to feel that -she is to spend the winter here.</p> - -<p>We passed a quiet forenoon with a regular -feast of the <cite>Times</cite> and of home news. Then -in the evening Mrs. Brennan took me for a walk -round the European Concession, down Consulate -Road, where the consulates of the various nations -are situated, to the Gordon Hall and Victoria -Gardens. Five years ago this was a mud-dried -waste—strange contrast to these pretty zoological -gardens, with its tennis courts, and well laid out -paths, and Chinese band playing. The Hall -is the centre of social life, where dances and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_227" id="Page_227">[227]</a></span> -public entertainments are held, and it has a -capital Library and Reading-room. At the -entrance are stands of guns, belonging to the -Volunteer corps of foreign gentlemen, who are -ready to come to arms should necessity arise.</p> - -<p>Like so many other places of this kind, Tientsin -has but one drive out into the country, and along -this we go up on to the city wall. We stand on -the high elevation of the deeply arched bridge, -and look out on the flat swamps of mudland, on -the surrounding marshy and unhealthy pools. It -is mud in some shape or form whichever way you -look, it is seen alike in houses, walls and roads, -and it is certainly very like what I pictured China -from reading books of travel.</p> - -<p>The Europeans on their small spotty Chinese -ponies, or driving in their cabriolet carriages, are -returning from their evening exercise. Tientsin -seems to be a pleasant place socially, particularly -in the cold though bright winter, when business is -slack on account of the frozen river, and the little -community join together to amuse themselves -with skating and sailing of ice-boats. And so -soon as the first dust storm spoils the river ice, -they enclose this pond we are passing, and make -a covered skating rink.</p> - -<p>My husband has just returned from a visit to -the great Viceroy, Li Hung Chang, who sent soon -after our arrival to say that he would be glad to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_228" id="Page_228">[228]</a></span> -see him. So at five o'clock he and Mr. Brennan -started out in state-green palanquins, the official -colour being green in distinction to the ordinary -blue, with a numerous retinue and an outrider -on a white horse to clear the way, and present the -Chinese card, a single sheet of long pink paper. -On arrival at the Viceregal Ymen, exterior and -surroundings of which were little in keeping with -the high offices of state held by His Excellency, -the chairs were carried into an inner courtyard, -flanked by wooden shields, bearing all the titles of -the Viceroy. The visitors were conducted to the -small foreign reception rooms, where His Excellency -immediately joined them.</p> - -<p>Li Hung Chang is a tall handsome man of -seventy, six feet four inches high, and was dressed -in a grey plush robe. He is frequently styled the -Bismarck of China, and is certainly the most -prominent and influential statesman of this vast -Chinese Empire. For many years Li, the -Viceroy, has held his present post of Governor-General -of the large Province of Chihli, and unites -with it that of Grand Secretary, Guardian of the -Heir Apparent, and what is most important of all -to us, Commissioner for Trade, in which capacity -all Foreign Affairs are referred to him from Peking. -In the conversation, His Excellency placed great -stress upon his sincere desire to develop closer -trade relations with England, and took great<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_229" id="Page_229">[229]</a></span> -interest in the details of the trade of the British -Empire which C. gave him. The interview -lasted about an hour, the Viceroy conducting his -guests back to their chairs, and sending me his -photograph.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_229.jpg" width="500" height="415" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p>A Chinese Street.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>There are two ways of reaching Peking. You -may ride or drive in those terrible country carts -the eighty miles, staying one or two nights in an -indescribably dirty Chinese inn, or go, as we -decided, in a house boat, 120 miles up the Peiho.</p> - -<p>At two o'clock the next afternoon, we drove in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_230" id="Page_230">[230]</a></span> -jinrikishas for an hour through the heart of the -native quarter. This is my first view of a real -Chinese city, and my early impressions are comprised -in the all-pervading, all-powerful, smothering -filth and dirt, in the revolting smells and -disgusting sights; my next, in the jostling of crowds -of coolies wheeling enormous iron-bound bales on -wheelbarrows, of carts drawn by teams of mules, -donkeys or oxen, of equestrians, pedestrians, -jinrikishas, and sedan chairs, crowded into a six-foot -wide street, curtained with bamboo mats -above, producing a bewildering pandemonium. -Passing the particularly squalid corner where is -situated the Ymen, we see the twin towers of the -Roman Catholic Cathedral. They stand there -as a solemn reminder of the dangers which yet -threaten the Settlement, and of the fanatical people -they are surrounded by, for it was here in 1870 -that there was that awful massacre of Roman -Catholic nuns, followed by the pillage of the -Convent and Cathedral.</p> - -<p>On arrival at the bridge of boats, we find our -house-boat, Chinese boy, provisions, luggage and -crew of coolies safely on board, and after many -objurations from the delayed passengers, a passage -by the removal of one of the boats is made for us, -and we begin our long journey up the Peiho.</p> - -<p>This house-boat is very comprehensive on a -small scale, for we have a sitting-room and bed-room<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_231" id="Page_231">[231]</a></span> -and kitchen. There is a tiny promenade -deck in the bows, then down two steps and you -are in a room with a bench, a table and two stools, -the door being formed of movable planks of wood. -Through an elegant arabesque of woodwork, -screened with paper, we can see the raised floor on -which are spread our mattresses with red quilts. -Behind a similar screen is the kitchen, a few square -inches, under the shadow of the helm, where our clever -"Boy," who is cook, valet and interpreter in one, -turns out the most deliciously cooked and varied -dishes, with a <i>batterie de cuisine</i>, consisting of a -few tin saucepans and an iron brazier of charcoal. -As for the crew, they sleep on deck anywhere, and -keep their provisions in the hold. The flat-bottomed -boat has an arched roof of matting laid -on bamboo sticks. It is clean, for I only saw one -black-beetle, but is only moderately air and water-tight. -Our tiny domicile is dominated by an -enormous sail which is hoisted up and down on -running strings. We either tow or pole, or sail, -according to the wind and stream.</p> - -<p>The vast and varied river life is before us. The -banks for some miles above Tientsin are lined -with these ugly sampans, their tattered sails hanging -in ribbons, their decks strewn with <i xml:lang="fr" lang="fr">dbris</i> -where the naked children disport themselves, and -the women steer at the helm; for in these -sampans generations are born, live, and die, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_232" id="Page_232">[232]</a></span> -they are coated too with the dirt of many -decades. There are fishermen on the bank -where, projecting out of the little hut which he inhabits, -is a net stretched wide on bamboo poles, -baited with the white of egg spread on the meshes. -He lowers it slowly up and down, and at each dip -we see the little silver-scaled fish jumping about -in the net. There are children dabbling in the -mud, true mud-larks, and women washing their -clothes. We espy a bridge over a tributary, with -a single graceful arch, so curved as to be half an -oval, and with some houses, a willow tree and -pig-tailed Chinaman, calling to remembrance the -willow-patterned plate of our childhood. We pass -several covered Chinese gun-boats,—war-junks,—with -their blue and white striped awnings, and a -Maxim gun in the bows kept for the defence of the -Peiho, and the patrolling of the river.</p> - -<p>We get out into the country at length, between -high mud banks, and by a continuous succession -of villages, their brown dusty walls abutting on to -the hard-trodden towing path, whilst around is -that careful cultivation resembling a succession of -kitchen gardens, with its plots of lettuces of enormous -size, of cabbages, turnips and onions; and -the vertical pole of the water tank is always amongst -them. A place is hollowed out in the bank, where, -from a cross plank, the bucket attached to the -pole is pulled down to the water, when the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_233" id="Page_233">[233]</a></span> -weighted end bears the bucket up and the water -is emptied into the channels that surround each -plot. Morning and evening you see hundreds -of these automatically-working figures, thus irrigating -their fields. The population appear ill-disposed -towards foreigners, they collect in the -villages and on the sampans and point and jeer at -me, for the Chinese keep their women at home, and -are shocked at the way "Barbarians," as they call -us, travel with their wives.</p> - -<p>After punting for a little while, three of the -coolies begin to tow, but it is tedious work, as our -line has constantly to be undone or passed round -the masts of other sampans. Indeed, all the way -there are processions of these vessels crawling -up the river heavily laden with cargoes of rice, salt, -camels' hair, sheep's wool, and vegetables, with -their four or six towers, whose brown figures are -bent double against the line, patiently staggering -along for mile after mile against the current. -Our coolies are very willing and cheerful, springing -ashore to begin that weary work of tacking -against stream, and subsisting on scanty meals of -rice, cabbage and maccaroni, which we watch them, -at midday and sunset, tucking rapidly into their -mouths with chop sticks. Sometimes they sing in -chorus to encourage themselves, with a soft crooning -chant.</p> - -<p>As evening approaches, columns of smoke rise<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_234" id="Page_234">[234]</a></span> -from the stern of the sampans, showing the preparation -of the evening meal, and the mists gather -low over the villages. We see the great high -road to Peking, raised on a mud embankment, -that now and again keeps company with the river; -it is bordered here with an avenue of whispering -willows, and against the orange sunset come such -picturesque figures along it. Now a little lady, with -her pantaloons reaching to her little feet, tippeting -along as if she must fall at every step, a horseman -on a shaggy white pony, <i>running</i> along without -rising in the saddle, a big man overshadowing a -tiny donkey, a jinrikisha, a country cart with oxen, -or one of those ancient wooden cabriolets, all outlined -in black relief against the yellow sky.</p> - -<p>We go to sleep with the sound of the water -gently gurgling against the bottom of the boat, the -croaking of the frogs on the banks, whilst our -patient coolies plod automatically along. They -anchor for a few hours in the middle of the night -opposite a large village, whence the regular muffled -tom-tom of the watchman, a deep and solemn tone, -is wafted across to us. At three in the morning -there is a rushing sound as of wind and water, and -to our great joy we find that we are sailing before -a brisk wind.</p> - -<p>The scenery of the Peiho is repelling in its ugliness, -and wearisome from its extreme monotony. -The country is absolutely flat, and there is nothing,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_235" id="Page_235">[235]</a></span> -now that the harvest is carried in, but a parched -saline plain, of mud and yellow grass, extending -for hundreds of miles all around.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_235.jpg" width="500" height="455" alt="" title="Our Home on the Peiho" /> -<div class="caption"><p>Our Home on the Peiho.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The only hills are those of the graves—these -unwieldy mounds of battened earth, that stand in -rows along the bank, or are collected in a field—a -family burial place, with mounds of varying sizes. -The greater the man, the larger is the tumulus -raised over him. Then there are other and more -disagreeable ones, where the coffin has been temporarily<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_236" id="Page_236">[236]</a></span> -earthed above ground, awaiting perhaps -a favourable moment for burial, or sufficient funds -to take the deceased back to the place of his birth; -for this is the dearly cherished hope of every Chinaman, -and often, when old age approaches, he -returns to his native place to be ready to die there. -An even more objectionable custom is that of -putting coffins down in open fields, or along the -roads. We saw one covered in red standing -like this, just outside a village, and you find them -in the same way all over China. There is a superstition -that it is lucky to bury within sight of -water or in a place which commands a view, and -that is why we see such rows of graves for miles -and miles by the river bank. To the Chinese their -burial is the most important thing of life. They -prepare their coffins and keep them in their -houses for years beforehand, though their unwieldy -size and solidity take up much ill-spared space, -and the object of every woman of the poorest -class is to save enough for her grave-clothes. It -has been truly said that the whole face of China -is burrowed under by these graves.</p> - -<p>The turpid yellow waters of the Peiho swirl -against our boat, particularly at the reaches, where -the current is strongest. The harvest is over, the -poppy fields are bare, and there are only a few -tall straggly castor-oil plants along the banks. -A few, very few coolies, in loose blue cotton garments,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_237" id="Page_237">[237]</a></span> -are at work, ploughing with ancient and -rude ploughshares. The teams they use are -delightfully mixed. You may often see an ox and -horse, a donkey and a mule all pulling together. -And the same useful mixture is seen in the carts -that resemble old Roman chariots, crawling along -the towing path, where a bull with a tandem -donkey is a favourite team. These donkeys -are beautiful animals; small, but with sleek grey, -brown and black coats, with the well-marked -neck rings, and line down the centre of the back. -We meet solitary pedestrians trudging along with -their heads down against the wind, and we wonder -whence they came and whither they are going, for -we are now only passing isolated villages at great -distances. In some of the few we sail by, the mud -walls surrounding the villages have a graceful openwork -arabesque at the top, and in one, to the sound -of much tom-tomming, a festival was progressing, -at which all the inhabitants (as there were none to -be seen) are evidently assisting.</p> - -<p>The windings described by the Peiho are aggravating. -The actual distance traversed, after a series -of bends, being equal to about half a mile as the -crow flies. Again and again we see the extraordinary -phenomenon of a row of sails walking -inland; and how picturesque these brown-patched -sails look, as extended by the wind they glide in -single file against the sky line. The wind is a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_238" id="Page_238">[238]</a></span> -subject of great anxiety on the Peiho, because if it -is ahead one the crew make fast to the bank at -once, and await a favourable change; and even if it -is, as to-day, behind us, the river winds so much -that we box every point of the compass, and so it -is not always to our advantage. We watch our -progress with great interest; and now we are scudding -gaily before a lovely fresh breeze, with the -pleasant sound of rushing water under the keel, -whilst the big sail overhead balloons out and -swells hopefully. To this succeeds a calm, when -a little punting with the long poles is necessary, -or a deep bend when the wind and stream -are ahead of us, and which means a painful slow -bit of tacking, when the men strain the whole -weight of their bodies against the tow line, to progress -at all. Again a pleasant rush, the puff of -wind catching our ponderous sail, and we scud -merrily past the banks. And how our coolies enjoy -this; stretching themselves out, and, sunning on the -deck, smoke their pipes. So it goes on all day.</p> - -<p>We passed several gaily-decorated junks belonging -to a great mandarin with the peacock's feather -over the door, generally accompanied by another -with the household; also the ex-French <i xml:lang="fr" lang="fr">Charg -d'Affaires</i>, Monsieur Ristelhueber, and his family, -returning to France from Peking, and with whom we -afterwards had the pleasure of travelling homewards -for a month on the French mail.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_239" id="Page_239">[239]</a></span></p> - -<p>The approach to Peking, which signifies the -"Gate of Heaven," is indeed synonymous with the -biblical definition in one particular, for it is narrow. -This morning the Peiho has dwindled into a ditch -between extensive mud flats, and we are constantly -aground, our five brown coolies struggling and -sweating in the quagmire of soft mud under a -broiling sun. It is weary, weary work this slow -progress, and we chafe at all the delays of crossing -the tow line from one bank to another, to -avoid the now continuous succession of sampans, -many of which are in worse condition than ourselves, -for the men have to get out into the -water to push the boat along; for should we -not arrive at Tungchau by noon, we must abandon -all hope of reaching Peking to-night, as the gates -close at sunset. There is a head wind, with a strong -current racing down the narrow channel against -us, and we sadly mark how crawling is our progress -by the landmarks on the bank. And so the -long hours of morning pass, and, just as we are -losing hope, we see the blue tower of the pagoda -at Tungchau, rising up from the plain, and there are -only seven miles more with an hour to do it in, and -we shall be at our journey's end. We afterwards -found that, favoured by the wind, we had made -almost, if not quite, a record passage of forty-six -hours, and that many boats take from four to five -days in coming up from Tientsin.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_240" id="Page_240">[240]</a></span></p> - -<p>We find an anchorage at Tungchau among fleets -of sampans, and in half an hour our boy has procured -three carts, packed in our luggage, and we -are ready to begin the fifteen miles journey to -Peking. Let me describe these carts. The body -is formed of a few planks of wood, with a hood -covered in blue or black stuff. The wheels are of -circular pieces of wood, they are guiltless of springs, -and are drawn by mules. They resemble an old -medival chariot, and indeed they date from and are -exactly the same as were in use in the tenth century. -There is no seat inside, and instead of sitting -on the floor, it is easiest to ride on the shaft, with -your legs hanging over; but I did not know this in -time. Before you have been half an hour in this -vehicle you cry out for mercy—for an instant's cessation -of this agonizing mode of progression, from -the unbearable bumping and concussion. And -when at length you become numbed by the pain -and discomfort, the intense weariness that succeeds, -makes you sure that another jolt will be unbearable, -until at last you close your eyes, feeling -that nothing but the end of the journey is of the -remotest consequence. The roads are somewhat -softened by the loose dust. Still, when you tumble -into a ditch on one side, with a jar that is felt -to your most internal depths, and are then run up -on to a bank on the other, you can have some idea -of what we suffered during that journey from<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_241" id="Page_241">[241]</a></span> -Tungchau to Peking. What must have been the -agonies endured by Sir Harry Parkes, and our old -friend Sir Henry Loch, as they journeyed in these -same springless carts to Peking, but with their -hands bound behind them and over <i>the stone road</i> -that takes a more circuitous route!</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_241.jpg" width="499" height="500" alt="" title="How I went to Peking" /> -<div class="caption"><p>How I went to Peking.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>We passed through the outskirts of Tungchau, -through some blind lanes of mud walls, with doors -in them leading to the courts, round which the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_242" id="Page_242">[242]</a></span> -houses are built. Soon we are out on the road—no, -it is not a road, but a rough track with several -trails, and made of millions of tons of dust, that -rise in impenetrable clouds by the passing of a -single donkey—dust that smells and tastes of the -garbage of China proper, that envelops everything -in a white mist, that, easily raised, subsides as -lingeringly. The embankments are crumbling -into dust, as are the numerous walls of these -hideous earth villages which line the road, and are -perched on the top of them. The whole face of -the land is parched and burnt. The willows -are streamers of dust, and the other trees are -coated grey with the same. And the road: it is a -succession of deep gutters, of holes, of upheavals of -sandbanks, running in the middle or across the -road, scarcely defined from the surrounding fields—and -this is the great highway to the Great City of -the unknown Emperor.</p> - -<p>We pass cavalcades of carts, and the gaudily-dressed -and painted Chinese women inside peer out -curiously at us; bullock carts laden with merchandise, -parties of horsemen, a caravan of camels, and -endless strings of donkeys, bearing away the last -of the students from the late annual examinations -at the capital. Many of these wear goggle spectacles, -the glasses of which are at least four inches in -diameter, and enclosed in broad tortoiseshell rims. -With their loose coats they tower over and bulge<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_243" id="Page_243">[243]</a></span> -out above their tiny quadrupeds, but these sleek, -good-looking little donkeys go cheerfully jig-jogging -along, with their blue-coated owners urging -them from behind. In the oasis of a few trees, -the mules are occasionally watered from the tubs -that stand ready filled, for the traffic along this -highway is ceaseless.</p> - -<p>The sun, as it got lower, scorched mercilessly -into the hood, and the dust in its parching -aridity became still more trying. The mule began -to tire, and the driver cruelly flogged it, while the -monotonous waste seems endless.</p> - -<p>Absolute indifference, with a deadly weariness, -had long since taken possession of me. The -clammy chill of sunset was of no consequence, -though I tried to huddle something round me. I -was only roused by the sight, over some tree tops, -of a little bit of black crenellated wall. The -approach to Peking is thus an absolute disappointment, -for, instead of seeing the grand walls from -afar standing up out of the yellow plain, here we -were creeping round a corner to them. In a few -minutes we were under the gloom and darkness of -this vast mass of stones, piled up on high centuries -ago. But, alas! that at such a moment imagination -and sentiment, increased by the difficulties and -tediousness of the journey, should succumb before -an increased ordeal of pain, as we now join the -stone road, and jar over the great crevasses the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_244" id="Page_244">[244]</a></span> -paved way. At last, turning the corner, we enter -under the massive arch or gateway, deep with -many feet of thickness, called by the poetical -name of Hatamen, or the "Gate of Sublime -Learning." We are within the outer walls of The -Forbidden City.</p> - -<p>Then we find ourselves in a sandy waste, -bordered by the wall of the Tartar City on one -side and the canal on the other. Little clouds of -dust rising in the distance tell of some cart or -donkey, and we ourselves continue enveloped in -the same as we choose any track we please, for -there is, of course, again no road for another weary -mile or so. Some flag-poles in the distance bring -a ray of comfort, for I shrewdly hope that they -mean the quarter of the Legations. Nor is my -hope ill-founded, for, passing through a dirty -passage, we emerge into the moving streets and are -soon in Legation Street, so called from the lion-guarded -entrances of the various legations, for the -French, the American, the German, and the -Russian Envoys are grouped here. We find accommodation -in one of the numerous courts of the -French hotel in this aristocratic street. The sense -of comfort of sitting still and not momentarily -expecting a concussion is simply delicious. We -are full of admiration for the physical bravery -and endurance of the many travellers, who for two -days or for eighty miles go in these carts from<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_245" id="Page_245">[245]</a></span> -Tungchau to Peking, through such a prolonged -torture.</p> - -<p>The British Legation is over the bridge with an -entrance off the Yu-ho canal. And here, the -next morning, Sir John and Lady Walsham sent -for us and received us most hospitably.</p> - -<p>This beautiful Legation was formerly a Palace -belonging to a member of the Imperial Family, -as is shown by its green roof. The approach to -the entrance is through an aisle and raised pavement, -formed by two magnificent open gateways -supported by pillars, and gorgeously decorated in -gold, scarlet, green, and blue. The palace wanders -round the spacious enclosure of a courtyard; -and the reception-rooms, with their lofty ceilings -inlaid like a temple in green and gold squares, with -their hanging screens of that beautiful Chinese -black oak carving, are magnificent. The walls are -of open work filled in with dull gold papers, and -furnished, as these rooms are, with handsome -brocades, soft carpets, and rich hangings, chosen -to harmonize with the surroundings, the whole is -truly regal.</p> - -<p>The compound is large, and contains the bungalows -and houses of the Legation Staff, and the -separate apartments of the Student Interpreters, of -whom there are six. And a very happy little -community of twenty-two persons they appear to -be, led by Lady Walsham, who is most hospitably<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_246" id="Page_246">[246]</a></span> -inclined, and living their life within the four -walls of the compound, which they rarely leave, -except for social duties, to pass into the outside -filth and dust.</p> - -<p>From the windows of our rooms, overshadowed -by the deep eaves supported on enormous red -wooden pillars, we look out on a succession of -peaked roofs, inlaid with green tiles and blue -decorations, with rows of pretty little green -dragons perched on the ridges, whilst crescent-shaped -ornaments depending from the roof, wave -with each breath of wind.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_247" id="Page_247">[247]</a></span></p> - - - - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_IX" id="CHAPTER_IX"></a>CHAPTER IX.<br /> - -<span class="smallish">THE CELESTIAL CITY.</span></h2> - - -<p>A curious difficulty arises in The Celestial City. -It is that of locomotion. How are we to get -about with no carriages, and only those abominable -agonizing carts to drive in? We end by taking -refuge on the humble donkey, and every time we -went out messengers had to be sent to the walls -to charter the best attainable animals.</p> - -<p>Great mandarins and ministers-plenipotentiary -go in chairs, but smaller fry are not allowed to use -them, besides which they are prohibitorily expensive. -Even the late Marquis Tsng, when he returned -from his embassy to Europe, was at first -denied the privilege of a chair, that he might -understand that, although great in England, he -was small in China. For the Secretaries, ponies -are the chosen mode of locomotion by day, and -fifty ponies stand in the Legation stables. At night -all must walk, lantern in hand, or go in a cart. -So it is with the ladies. Carriages are unknown -and impossible, with the result that the majority<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_248" id="Page_248">[248]</a></span> -make, as I have said, a sweet prison of the compound, -and lawn tennis has votaries among all -ages.</p> - -<p>The sky is clear and blue, with a north wind -bringing a deliciously crisp feeling into the air, -suitable to this October month. The climate of -Peking offers a redeeming feature to the Europeans -who are isolated here. For the next six -months this cloudless sky is uninterrupted. Rain -is unknown for nine months together, from July to -April, and the worst season is the rainy one of -May and June, when the steamy heat is most -trying. The winter is perfect—cold, but with warm -sun in the middle of the day, and the snow that -falls, but occasionally, is soon dispersed by the -wind.</p> - -<p>Moreover, Peking is fortunate in having a -summer resort close at hand in the Western Hills, -some fifteen miles distant. Here the Legation -lives for the hot months, in a privately-rented -group of Temples. The dust storms are the -scourge of the town; from the crumbling "loess" -and alkaline nature of the soil, they sweep in -blinding clouds over the plain, and are most -irritating in their fortnightly recurrence. The air -is so intensely bracing and dry, as to unpleasantly -affect the skin.</p> - -<p>The first thing to do is to grasp the topography -of the Celestial Metropolis, with its city within<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_249" id="Page_249">[249]</a></span> -city, and wall within wall. We return to the Gate -of Sublime Learning, and ascend by it on to the -great Tartar Wall.</p> - -<p>Peking is spread out at our feet. We can trace -out the four Walls, each containing a separate -town. The outer and lower ramparts surround -the Chinese city. The next exclude the abodes -of the conquered from those of the Conqueror. -Here upon the higher ground were assigned, two -hundred and fifty years ago, spacious residences -for the Tartar Bannermen. Within the Tartar -town again, and surrounded by its defenders, is the -Imperial city, and enclosed again, securely inside -this, with further moats and guard-houses, is the -Wall of the Forbidden City itself.</p> - -<p>These Walls are from fifty feet high, to forty and -sixty feet wide. They are built on massive stone -foundations, but the walls themselves are of brick, -filled in with mud. How have these common black -bricks survived the crumbling of ages? But, -except where the base has been marauded for the -sak of the yellow clay of the mortar, they are as -solid as the day they were constructed. At -intervals of three hundred yards there are massive -flying buttresses, and a crenellated parapet crowns -the summit. They are pierced with many gateways, -for there are nine to the Tartar city, and -eight for the Chinese. Each gate is surmounted -by a square tower of many storeys, loopholed for<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_250" id="Page_250">[250]</a></span> -archers and musketeers, and with quaint heavy -black roofs, decorated often in gay colours.</p> - -<p>Poetical names mark these Gates, such as "The -Eastern Straight Gate," "The Gate of Peace and -Tranquillity," "Of Attained Victory," "The Gate -of Just Law," "The Western and Eastern Gate of -Expediency." These vast fortifications extend for -twenty miles, and enclose an area of twenty-five -square miles. They are all that you see from -whichever side you approach the city, for they are -loftier than the loftiest interior pagoda or tower. -They are the most impressive and venerable -sight, and alone would be worth coming to see.</p> - -<p>We are walking on the top of this Wall of the -Tartar city—over the ancient grass-grown pavement—commanding -a splendid view of the -Chinese capital, in the early morning light. The -pale grey haze over the Western Mountains points -the direction where lie the ruins of that beautiful -Summer Palace, magnificent even in its decaying -fragments, standing for ever as a reproach to the -allies, but fit judgment on the barbarous cruelty -of a civilized nation. From this bird's-eye view, -Peking appears so buried in trees, that it is hard -to believe that its teeming streets, with a population -variously estimated at from 400,000 to 800,000, -is immediately below. We are so far above it, -that even the street cries and calls come up in a -softened murmur.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_250.jpg" width="560" height="368" alt="" title="A GATE OF PEKING" /> -<div class="caption"><p>A GATE OF PEKING.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_251" id="Page_251">[251]</a></span></p> - -<p>We can distinguish the black roofs of several -temples, and the bright green-tiled ones that denote -the abode of a Prince of the Blood, called the First -or the Tenth Prince, in gradation of propinquity. -Over there now the sun is shining and gleaming -from the many yellow-tiled roofs of the Imperial -palaces of that Forbidden City, where shrouded in -mystery, unseen by his people, dwells the Emperor -who holds sway over a fourth of the human race.</p> - -<p>For about two miles we walk upon the ramparts, -which would make a splendid promenade, turning -the corner of the square by the Eastern Straight -Gate, which is beautiful with its pagoda newly-decorated -for the recent passage of the Sovereign. -The roof is formed of dark crenellated tiles, with -deep outward curving lines, underneath which is -a lovely inlaid mosaic in vivid blue and green tiles, -whilst the green bronze dragons with twisted tails -are perched in single file along the curving sweep. -From point to point of the gracefully arched line, -suspend crescent-shaped eyes, that tremble in -the breeze. And each of the numerous gates have -equally fine pagodas, so that in our wanderings we -were always coming back to one of these familiar -features.</p> - -<p>But a difficulty occurs. We wish to descend -from the wall. There is a ramp; but at the bottom -a locked and spiked gate. We call for a ladder, -without result. Pulled by the guide, pushed from<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_252" id="Page_252">[252]</a></span> -below, we scramble up and over a nine-foot wall. -It was not dignified, and the crowd was amused at -our quandary.</p> - -<p>We are making our way towards the Tower -which leans against the City Wall, belonging to -the observatory.</p> - -<p>We pass into a shady courtyard to gaze upon -the very instruments whereat Marco Polo -wondered in his famous travels. There are two -planispheres, an Astrolabe of great size, cast in -bronze, and supported on twisted dragons of exquisite -workmanship, and which are probably the -best specimens of bronze work in Eastern Asia. -Ascending up some damp stone steps, we find ourselves -on the top of the Tower, and inside a finely -wrought iron railing, where there is a gigantic Globe -of the Heavens, with the planets yet marked in relief -on the surface. Also a quadrant, sextant, -and sundial; while the large Azimuth instrument -in the corner was a present to the Emperor -Kanghai from Louis XIV.</p> - -<p>And these instruments are as perfect as they -were when placed here 300 years ago. Indeed, -some of these are still used by the Astronomical -Board for their observations. It brings home to -us the fact that we must never ignore for a -moment, whilst living in China, that in the earliest -centuries she was far ahead in civilization of any -country in the world. But while the West has<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_253" id="Page_253">[253]</a></span> -gone rapidly onward, overtaking and outstripping -the East, China, self-contained and shut off from -contact with all other nations, has remained -stationary, so that much we see around us dates -from that era. The Chinese are under the impression -that there is no nation equal to theirs. -They suppose themselves the centre of civilization -for the last 2000 years, and claim that China knew -the art of printing, invented gunpowder, and was -learned in astronomy, long before us. They consider -that China is the middle of the Universe, as is -shown by the name, which, in their language, -signifies "The Middle Kingdom." They look -upon themselves as superior to us, as we think -ourselves to them, calling us Barbarians, and considering -all European nations as such. As a -nation they never travel, and are down-trodden -by the conservatism of the Mandarins, who, risen -from the people, wish to retain their superiority by -keeping the lower classes under.</p> - -<p>The real interest of Peking lies in its intense age. -The city is 4000 years old. Conquered by the -Mongols, or the "Golden Horde," who, in their -turn were overthrown by the Tartars, Peking of the -present day is built, like Rome, upon the ruins of -many cities. The description of the famous -Venetian traveller is as true to-day as it was when -written in the thirteenth century. It is in this -wondrously preserved life of the middle ages that<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_254" id="Page_254">[254]</a></span> -the curiosity remains; it is because we see the -streets under their primitive conditions of dirt, -before ideas of sanitation were dreamt of, because -we can look on the carts that were in use at a -period corresponding with our conquest by the -Norman—on the wheelbarrows with the single -wheel, which creaks as loudly now as it did then, -on the wells with their Eastern earthenware jars, -and the water drawn as in the pictures of Isaac and -Rebecca—on those great Walls, then necessary for -protection from the wild hordes that scoured the -plains, and where the gates are still closed, in accordance -with the ancient custom, at sundown. It -is all the same. We might have fallen into a Rip -Van Winkle sleep at Tientsin, and awoke in the -streets of the Celestial Capital in the middle of the -dark ages.</p> - -<p>There is one thing which impresses itself indelibly -on the mind, and is called to remembrance -with the first mention of Peking. It is the dirt! -the dirt! the dirt!</p> - -<p>It is impossible to conceive of such awful filth, -and, unless you have seen it, I defy anyone to have -the faintest idea of the sights and smells of this city -of the Flowery Land. The condition of the streets -is the same as it was <span class="smcap">B.C.</span> If they were described -faithfully and in detail, common decencies would -be violated, even as they are but too openly. Let<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_255" id="Page_255">[255]</a></span> -it suffice to say that they reek with refuse, garbage, -and decaying matter of every description; that -the houses throw out into dry pits, dug anywhere -in the road, their pig's wash and offal, and that the -putrefaction and decay fills the air with noisome -smells that overpower you at every turn. Filth and -refuse you soon grow hardened to in Peking, but -occasionally some particularly nauseous sight, such -as a dead dog in a far advanced stage of decomposition, -or a cat with the entrails protruding, unnerves -you again.</p> - -<p>Wherever there is water you may be sure that it -is a stagnant pool of liquid filth, covered with green -slime, and containing untold horrors if stirred up. -Also, if you pass down even the comparatively -clean Legation Street, in the wake of the watering-cart, -the stench from the stirred-up dust is unbearable. -Men are seen going along with baskets on -their backs, carefully collecting with a bamboo -pronged fork every morsel of manure, for this is -the only kind that the Chinese use, chemical -fertilizers being unknown. Fortunately, too, there -are hundreds of pariah dogs, many evil-looking -beasts, who, with their sharp noses, are busy turning -over the most unsavoury heaps, or lie asleep -gorged in the middle of the narrow roads. Also -the pigs, great coarse-haired masses of fat (the -Chinese pig is a peculiarly revolting species)<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_256" id="Page_256">[256]</a></span> -wallowing in the foul slush. Enough! In every -place and corner are revolting sights, unfit for a -civilized community.</p> - -<p>Then there is the dust. It adds to the unpleasantness -of going about. Such dust as it is, -all-pervading, all-penetrating, leaving a pungent -smell in your clothes, so that I soon found out -that it is necessary to keep a special costume to -face it. Once outside the Compound, you find -yourself in the jostle and crowd, the shouts and -disorder of the streets, and as a cart or horseman -passes, a cloud is raised that obscures everything -for the moment; and so it is that, for half the -time you are out you see nothing for the dust, -and for the other half only through a dim veil -of the same. At sundown the state of affairs is -made worse by the succession of mules, purposely -loosened to roll over and over.</p> - -<p>Lastly there is the incredible state of the roads, -with their deep holes in the very middle of the -busiest thoroughfares, with huge stones lying -across, or a steep embankment, round which you -must diverge. There is this excuse, that the -soil, owing to its light and porous nature, aided -by the extreme dryness of many months of the -year, easily shifts with the wind. If the dust is -intolerable, what must it be in winter, when it -is turned into a quagmire of black mud or -sludge? It is no uncommon thing for a mule to be<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_257" id="Page_257">[257]</a></span> -drowned in the streets. He falls into this soft -morass and, unable to get a footing, perishes within -sight of the bystanders.</p> - -<p>There is yet another and a more unpleasant -drawback to be met with, in going about the -streets of Peking. The Chinese, but particularly -the Tartar and Manchu part of the population, -dislike Europeans, and openly insult -us as we pass along, jeering and laughing in a -most offensive manner, and obviously making the -rudest observations. Even the little children -come out and call us foul names, of which Barbarian -and Foreign or Red-Haired Devils are the -mildest terms—language which they must have -become familiar with by hearing it used by their -parents. There are several places where Europeans -are almost invariably stoned, and public -feeling has been intensified by these late unfortunate -riots on the Yangtze.</p> - -<p>In the afternoon we go into the Chinese town, -passing through the great Chien-men or Front -Gate. Inside this there is a large blank square, -formed by the meeting walls of the Chinese and -Tartar cities, which are pierced by four archways. -The centre entrance is only opened and -used by the Emperor on the occasion of his -yearly visit to the Temple of Heaven. But -through the others that connect the towns, -there is a constant moving, hurrying crush of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_258" id="Page_258">[258]</a></span> -people, the two streams meeting and blocking in -the arch.</p> - -<p>We lift up and pass under some black draperies -and find ourselves in the Chinese bazaar—in a -passage one yard wide and completely covered in. -The shops are a succession of rooms, raised on -a step from the earth passage and all open in -front, where you can buy fancy articles and artificial -flowers. There are the pretty jade pins, -which form the centre for the shiny coil of hair -worn by the Chinese women, long earrings and -bracelets of the same, mandarin buttons in -coloured stones, clocks, porcelain, shoes, and silk -embroideries. It is the quaintest and prettiest of -Eastern arcades, with the afternoon sun penetrating -the bamboo blinds in shafts of light, -lighting the picturesque groups of buyers and -sellers squatted on the floors. The three-foot -passage is blocked by a curious crowd, assisting -in our purchases.</p> - -<p>We penetrate yet further into the Chinese -city, across a stone bridge and through a dangerous -open square—a meeting of ways—where -crates of merchandise, carts drawn by tandem -bullocks and mules, palanquins, wheelbarrows -with baskets of liquid manure running over, -horses and donkeys, are all mingled together, -going and coming in different directions. Yes! -Sir Edwin Arnold, you speak truly of</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_259" id="Page_259">[259]</a></span></p> - -<div class="container"> -<div class="poem"> - <div class="stanza"> - <div class="i3">"The painted streets alive with hum of words,</div> - <div class="i3">The traders cross-legged, mid their spice and grain,</div> - <div class="i3">The buyers with their money in the cloth,</div> - <div class="i3">The war of words to cheapen this or that,</div> - <div class="i3">The shout to clear the road, the huge stone wheels,</div> - <div class="i3">The strong slow oxen and their rustling loads,</div> - <div class="i3">The singing bearers with their palanquins,</div> - <div class="i3">The broad-necked hmals sweating in the sun."</div> - </div> -</div> -</div> - -<p>Then we go up a narrow street, tortuous and -dirty, to another bazaar where there are nothing -but lantern, fan, and picture shops.</p> - -<p>Half an hour in these streets gives you more -idea of Chinese life than all the books of travel -you may read in a life-time.</p> - -<p>Peking beggars description, still let me try to -give some idea of what we see.</p> - -<p>Here we are in a narrow lane. This is the -aristocratic quarter where the mandarins and -officials live. There are a succession of mud-plastered -walls, roofed at the top and presenting -an absolutely blind appearance to the road, which, -when combined with the always dilapidated condition -of the latter, gives the most deserted and -squalid impression. Opposite the entrance are -hung tablets, indicating the offices and titles of -the householder. They are on a blank wall, for -you must observe that the entrance into a Chinese -house is never straight. It always winds, and this -is supposed to be a defence against the incursion -of evil spirits, for the latter can happily only go -straight. For the same reason we see the little<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_260" id="Page_260">[260]</a></span> -children wearing their pig-tails plaited at the side of -the head, so that the evil spirit, not finding anything -to grip at the back, is unable to catch hold of them. -In the houses of poor people, who cannot afford -such elaborate precautions, there is always a mud -screen erected in front of the door. Let us go -inside. We find ourselves in a succession of -courts, surrounded by low buildings, where a -family and its branches reside, to the number sometimes -of 200 persons. There are separate buildings -for the cooking, eating, sleeping, and living, -but the family all live together. As our "boy" -said, when we inquired about these houses, -"Family man live there." Truly one, indeed. -Yet there is something to be admired about this -family life, this care of aged parents and luckless -relations.</p> - -<p>The streets with shops, present the most wonderful -vista of untidy ends of tattered rags flying -from poles, of dingy decorations of strips of paper -or cloth hanging over the doorways. The houses -have a mean appearance, being only of one story, -and their walls, unless they are of mud, consist of -carved wood openwork, covered in with tattered -yellow paper. I think I may truly say that I never -saw one, where the paper was not torn and discoloured. -Occasionally you come upon a shop, -bright with the names of the goods written in gold -and scarlet or green. They were originally all<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_261" id="Page_261">[261]</a></span> -like this, and this one is only recently finished, -yet in a few months will become as dull and dirty -as the rest. Everything is allowed to run to decay. -The Chinese never seem to think it necessary to -repair or re-decorate, and the climate powerfully -aids in this destruction.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_261.jpg" width="500" height="454" alt="" title="A street in Peking" /> -<div class="caption"><p>A street in Peking.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>In many of the streets, the road is raised on an -embankment of loose dust, and then bordered by -an empty space, where the garbage of the dwelling-house<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_262" id="Page_262">[262]</a></span> -is increased by the refuse from the various -trades pursued in it, and which is thrown out indiscriminately -to fester and decay in the hot sun, -or it is occupied by cheap-jacks who lay their -goods in the dust, hawking and crying their wares. -Here are rows of lanterns with a primitive wooden -receptacle for the lamp, filled in with opaque -paper, and frequent watch-houses, whence the -watchmen patrol the city at night with the muffled -beat of a gong.</p> - -<p>The life in these streets, straggling, ill-compacted, -and grimy as they are, is yet full of vivid interest. -Not that these open shop fronts, or grimy pig-tailed -men, can compare with the fascinating life of a -dear little Japanese street. Here is a tea-house, -with the distinguishing sign of ornamental green -and gold wooden drums outside, and inside a -crowd sitting cross-legged on benches, each with -a bowl and chopsticks held within an inch of -his nose, shovelling his food rapidly into his -mouth. There a man with rows of little black -balls spread out before his shop; he is a coal -and these balls are made of clay mixed -with coal dust—a most economical method of -firing. That house in the middle with glazed -windows is a bank, and whenever we see a particularly -bright exterior, we may be sure that it -belongs to a pawnbroker, for he does a large business, -the Chinese being ever ready to pawn their all<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_263" id="Page_263">[263]</a></span> -for a good gamble or perhaps a whiff of opium, as -some unfortunates at home will do for a last drink. -There is a man squatted on the ground, shaking -some sticks in a bamboo-holder. He is largely -patronized, men coming and going and choosing -out a stick and putting it back with either a pleasing -or dissatisfied look. He is a fortune-teller. Or -there is a group intent on a game of hazard, when -the stakes in question are a few cash. Yes! these -Chinese are certainly inveterate gamblers, and -would gamble their food, their clothing, anything -away. Or it is a juggler with a simple apparatus -giving a street performance, and many of our best -tricks are, as we see, borrowed from the Chinese -conjuror.</p> - -<p>Then the coffin shops, piled high with those -ponderous sarcophagi hewn out of a single tree-trunk, -so thick, so substantial, warranted to last -for generations, and there is no sending for one in -a hurry, for generally the coffin has been waiting -in the house for years for its occupant. The -funeral furnishers also do a thriving business, for -we see many of them, hung inside with the green -paraphernalia, the lanterns, carrying pagodas and -poles that make up such an imposing procession. -So do the wedding contractors, which we distinguish -from the undertakers by their red decorations.</p> - -<p>Then there are the carpenters and ironmongers, -the blacksmiths and the book-shops, the laundries<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_264" id="Page_264">[264]</a></span> -and the barbers, and those of other trades, all of -which are easily distinguished at a glance, in -the open shops, where the work is carried on -within view of the world, adding tenfold to the -interest of the streets. The travelling cobbler is -frequently seated at the corner of a thoroughfare, -repairing the soft felt soles of the Chinese shoes. -The itinerant musician is seen under an awning -with his book and drum, singing to an attentive -audience seated round a table. In all these shops, -there is a whirligig round which an incense-burning -tube is smouldering, and which marks the flight of -time. Watch this shopman give change. He -produces often from up his sleeve, or from round -his neck, heavy strings of copper "cash." Now as -1200 of these go to make up a dollar, the counting -of the change is a matter of patience. It is a -cumbrous monetary system, but well in keeping -with all that is Chinese.</p> - -<p>We are in the midst of a moving scene of life. -Here the descendant of the Tartar soldiery carrying -a cage of performing birds, or a stick with a -chaffinch tied to it. It is the thing perhaps that -he values most of all his possessions, and you will -often see the Manchu kneeling on the grass, -collecting grasshoppers on which to feed his -favourite. Very cruel to them also they often are, -sewing up their eyes so that they cannot see to -escape. There is a soldier in uniform of bright<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_265" id="Page_265">[265]</a></span> -Imperial yellow bordered with crimson, carrying -an antique matchlock with long stock, and a flint -in his belt. Soon after another passes on a pony -with arquebus and arrows slung across his back, -for all Chinese soldiers must, as in the days of -Agincourt, be expert archers.</p> - -<p>Here is a caravan of camels bearing loads of tea -(and connoisseurs always prefer that which has -thus travelled overland, to the tea transported by -sea), with their slow, stealthy, deliberate walk, -and contemptuous turned-up noses, tied together -by the rope passed through the ring in the nose, -attached to the tail of the preceding one. The -last of the string has a bell which keeps slow -and solemn time with his dignified walk, and the -driver does not trouble about the end of the file, -unless the stopping of the bell tells him there is -something amiss. A flock of sheep are being -driven down that walled lane. They are white -with black spots, and have the great lumps of fat -on their haunches peculiar to the breed of Eastern -sheep. If we follow to where they are going, to -the butcher's shop, we shall see the disgusting -scene presented by a slaughter-house open to the -street. The animals will be torn asunder, joint -by joint, whilst still warm, with the blood streaming, -and entrails laid bare.</p> - -<p>A blue palanquin, with many bearers, is being -carried along. There is a great mandarin squatted<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_266" id="Page_266">[266]</a></span> -inside on the floor, and we can just see the handsome -magnate with his embroidered robes lined -with sable, his turned-up velvet hat with the peacock's -feather stuck out straight behind, the red, -blue, or white button on which indicates his rank. -He wears the red, and is going to the Ymen or -Ministry. He is preceded by a retinue of -mounted servants, who summarily clear the way, -with the whip if necessary, and their number -announces to the world the rank and importance -of their master. Now there gallop past us a -party of wild-looking Tartars, veritable barbarians -they look, with their yellow faces, short lank hair -and fur caps. Comes along next, a wheelbarrow, -with the excruciating squeak of the single front -wheel, while the merchandise is neatly balanced -in baskets on either side. It is a perpetual wonder -how they maintain their equilibrium, especially -when, as at Shanghai, they are used for passengers, -and there is only <em>one</em> seated on the side.</p> - -<p>Now we must make way for this long cart, -crowded with passengers, which corresponds to -our omnibus; also for that uncouth-looking -waggon, with its piebald team of a single pony in -the shafts, with a troika of two donkeys and a -mule roped in front. Again and again these -curiously mixed teams excite our mirth, the -wheeler being often the smaller animal of the -whole. Then there is the never-ceasing stream of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_267" id="Page_267">[267]</a></span> -those blue and black covered carts, of which we -retain such a lively horror since our journey from -Tungchau, and out of many, jeer the Chinese ladies, -looking with scorn at the "Barbarian's wife" -riding a donkey, whilst they are boxed up safely -inside, with a curtain in front, and guarded by an -armah (or maid) seated on the shafts.</p> - -<p>Add to all these sights, crowds of donkeys, -small and wiry, with their padded saddles on a -wooden frame, with a bulging Chinaman with -swinging pigtail seated far back, and with his -legs tucked up, trotting along—of horsemen on -rough Tartar ponies, generally white in colour, and -which run along at a great pace, so that there is -no rising in the saddle, and lastly the mules, a -beautiful breed, large and strong, with glossy -coats, cruelly bitted, with a double bit and wire -over the upper gums.</p> - -<p>We have grown so accustomed to John Chinaman, -with his innocent yellow face, so smooth -and hairless,—except when as a grandfather he -wears a moustache,—his obliquely-slit eyes, and his -flowing pigtail, with plaited ends of cord and -tassels, that we have ceased to observe him. We -are now quite familiar with his baggy pantaloons, -which sometimes he binds tightly to the ankle—with -his turned-up hat with velvet brim, or eight-sided -cap, always with coloured button atop—with -his loose blue coat fastened by two buttons on one<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_268" id="Page_268">[268]</a></span> -shoulder, with the sleeves hanging long over the -hands, and that serve him as pockets. It is -beginning to get cold, so that the wadded coats -worn in winter are coming into general use. -Whilst there is a level monotony of colour in the -lower classes, the upper have the most gorgeous -brocaded coats of crimson, blue, and purple, with -pantaloons of other colours, that combine in pleasing -effect. Some of the men have the long claw -nail, but only on the little finger, in token that -they do no manual labour, and a disgusting sight -it is to see this transparent substance of several -inches in length, bending backwards and forwards, -as they use their hands.</p> - -<p>The pigtail! What is it for? What is its origin? -It is simple. The Tartars were few, the Chinese -many. Let not the latter see this and be tempted -to say: "Arise, drive out the conqueror." Let -them shave three-fourths of the head; let the back -hair grow long and braid it into a bridle as is the -Tartar custom. The pigtail was intended as a -mark of subjection to signify to the Chinese that, -even as it resembled a horse's tail, so might they be -driven like one, whilst the cuff of the official sleeve -to this day is cut into the shape of a horseshoe.</p> - -<p>Such, says tradition, was the Manchu order, and -off came at a stroke the heads of the disobedient. -Two generations pass, and the Chinese love the -pigtail, as they do to-day, and dread the agents of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_269" id="Page_269">[269]</a></span> -the Secret Society snipping it here and there, as -an insult to the Tartar.</p> - -<p>The Chinese ladies are plain. They wear their -black hair plastered from a flat parting on either -side of the face, and with bunches of artificial -flowers and tinsel stuck in, behind the ear, from -which depend long green jade earrings. Others -have their hair drawn up over a comb, to form a -top knot, rising about four inches above the head. -There is yet a still more curious fashion of dressing -the hair into a plait wired, so as to stand out -from the nape of the neck in a stiff curve, just like -the tail of a cat. It has a most peculiar appearance. -Has it ever struck you, when travelling, as -it has me, how very nearly all the nations of the -world have black hair, the English, Germans and -Swedes being nearly the only exceptions? The -Chinese women smear their faces with rouge, -beginning by placing one brilliant vermilion spot -under the lower lip. They wear the same dress -as the men, loose trousers and coats, and their -clothes are of the brightest colours—violent greens, -blues and purples, richly embroidered in gold or -silver tissue, and rainbow tints. They wear -many bangles and rings of jade or crystal, and a -silver circle round the neck. They too have the -long nails, but on all their fingers. We bought -some of the pretty silver claws of immense curving -length, which they use as shields.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_270" id="Page_270">[270]</a></span></p> - -<div class="figleft" style="width: 207px;"> -<img src="images/i_270.jpg" width="207" height="400" alt="" title="Her Ladyship's Foot" /> -<div class="caption"><p>Her Ladyship's Foot.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Oh! to see these poor women totter along, just balancing, ready to -fall at every step, with their poor little crippled feet. The weight -of a fair-sized woman is supported on a pair of green or blue pointed -boots, measuring not more than four inches in length. If we could -look inside, we should find the toes laid flat under the sole of the -foot, the great toe meeting the heel. From the moment the bandages are -put on the children, which is at the age of three or four, they are -never removed, however painful the swelling, but drawn tighter and -tighter until the deformity is complete. In the upper classes many of -the ladies have to be carried or supported on either side by an armah -when they walk. And yet they are so proud of their feet, they are such -a marriageable commodity, for big feet are sufficient ground, even -to-day, for a refusal to proceed with a contract of matrimony, that -many are solely deterred from<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_271" id="Page_271">[271]</a></span> -adopting Christianity by the obligations, imposed -by the missionaries, of ordinary feet. A Chinese -mandarin who had studied "England: as she was, -and as she is," said to a friend: "You English -seem very fond of your Queen—but is it possible -that you allow yourselves to be governed by a -woman, however good, with big feet?"</p> - -<p>It is a comfort here, to meet with the larger -and handsomer Manchu women, who come from -Manchuria in Northern China, and are not thus -deformed. We always distinguish these latter by -their wonderful headdress, which consists of a -piece of jade, one foot long, and exactly resembling -a paper cutter placed across the head to project -from ear to ear, and round which the hair is -twisted.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_272" id="Page_272">[272]</a></span></p> - - - - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_X" id="CHAPTER_X"></a>CHAPTER X.<br /> - -<span class="smallish">THE FORBIDDEN CITY.</span></h2> - - -<p>Now for some of the sights of Peking.</p> - -<p>A long hour and a half's ride on donkeys from -the British Legation, brings us to the vicinity of -the great temple of Confucius.</p> - -<p>We find ourselves on a straight, dusty road, -with a gateway at the end. It was through that -gateway, and down this same road, that the British -troops passed, when in 1860 they marched into -Peking.</p> - -<p>We are frequently seeing painted wooden archways, -called Peilaus. These memorial arches are -found all over China. They are only erected by -express permission of the Emperor, to good and -public-spirited persons—to a great man who has -given a large sum of money (often solely for this -object), or to a widow who has been sufficiently -virtuous to remain faithful to her husband's -memory. Like everything else, they are generally -crumbling or falling crooked.</p> - -<p>The approach to the Temple is through a road<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_273" id="Page_273">[273]</a></span> -with a succession of blank walls, the temple itself -being equally well surrounded. Here we see a -man doing penance, shut up in a yellow box, and -striking a bell with a wooden lever at intervals. -His punishment will last a month, and if we could -see inside, very likely the box is lined with spikes -or nails, so arranged that they prick the sinner if -he changes his position. Sometimes it is a means -resorted to to obtain money to build a temple. -"Give, oh! give. 1000<i>l.</i> I must collect before I -am released from this cell."</p> - -<p>Foreigners are often refused entrance to the -Confucian Temple. We parley, too, through a -crack in the door, and are told "No, big man is -coming." But as usual, greed, in the shape of -the golden key that accomplishes most things, -conquers, and amid a rush of dirty on-lookers, -who find entrance with us as the gate is opened, -we pass inside the court of the temple of the -Great Teacher. This court is solemn and silent, -neglected and deserted, with its dusky groves of -cryptomerias and cooing grey doves. The paved -pathway leads up to some steps, that pass on -either side of a raised stone slab, covered with -ancient hieroglyphics, and embossed dragons with -wonderfully twisted tails. In the inner court is -the temple itself, with a roof of brilliant yellow -tiles, and surrounded by pagodas and smaller -halls similarly tiled.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_274" id="Page_274">[274]</a></span></p> - -<p>We ascend to a marble terrace with balustrades. -The door of the temple is thrown open, and forth -rushes a smell of damp air, and as the gloom -dissipates we cross some matting, raising clouds -of dust. By degrees the lofty proportions of the -massive hall, with its roof of blue and green, supported -on colossal teak pillars of wood, painted a -dull red, begin to dawn upon us. We see in the -centre the shrine to Confucius, a humble red -wooden tablet, set on a table, bearing this inscription: -"The Tablet of the Soul of the Most Holy -Ancestral Teacher, Confucius." On either side -are tablets to the four most distinguished sages, -whilst the others, in a lower position, are for the -next best celebrated men of the Confucianist -school. And this is the Literary Temple in which -the Example and Teacher of all Ages, and ten of -his great disciples, worshipped. "All is simple, -quiet, and cheerless, fit place for contemplation, -and suitable for the Great Thought-giver."</p> - -<p>The Emperor comes here twice a year to worship -the venerated sage, and every sovereign, in -token of veneration, presents a "Tablet of Praise." -Each inscription is different, and presents some -aspect of his influence; he is called, "Of all men -the Unrivalled," "Equal to Heaven and Earth," and -"Example and Teacher of all Ages." In another -court are seen the celebrated stone drums. They -are ten in number, of grey granite or stone, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_275" id="Page_275">[275]</a></span> -are believed to date from the eighth century <span class="smcap">B.C.</span>, -or to be about 2700 years old. The writing on -them is in the old Seal character, and consists of -stanzas relating to King Sen's hunting expeditions. -They are the oldest things in a country -where everything is of such antiquity.</p> - -<p>On the opposite side of the court is the Hall of -the Triennial Examinations for the highest Literary -Degree, the Chinese Doctor of Literature. "In -commemoration of each examination, a stone is -erected with the names of all the doctors. The -oldest are three of the Mongol dynasty, and the -Peking University has therefore a complete list -for 500 years of its graduates."</p> - -<p>Then we cross over to the Classic Hall, where -the Emperor meets the literati and graduates to -hear, and sometimes theoretically to pronounce a -literary address. In the centre of the court there -is a pagoda, crowned with a wonderful gold knob -(like a mandarin's button at the top of his hat), -and surrounded by an extremely gracefully-wrought -marble trellis-work, enclosing a moat of -sluggish green water. Opposite to it is a beautiful -yellow porcelain arch, in three divisions, interwoven -with green tiles, forming a vivid contrast, -yet blending into a harmonious whole. There -are other pagodas, containing those curious -memorials, of a pyramidal stone resting on the -back of a tortoise. These are, of course,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_276" id="Page_276">[276]</a></span> -also to the memory of distinguished literati. -Open sheds surround the court, and inside -the black palings, are the benches where the -students sit, when the Emperor comes to hear the -address delivered, and behind, against the wall, -the 300 precious tablets, on which are engraved -the authorized texts of the classics, the oldest -remains of ancient Chinese literature. Plenty of -other temples for ordinary worshippers we see, -and always know them by the two poles outside, -with gold knobs on the top.</p> - -<p>We return to the city down a road which leads -past the Drum and Bell towers, great pagoda-like -structures, pierced by solid archways on each -side, standing near together, both 100 feet high. -The drum is sounded at every hour through the -long night watches, and can be heard all over the -city. A clepsidra is still kept to mark the time, a -good instance of Chinese conservatism. Near -here is the temple where Sir Harry Parkes and Sir -Henry Loch were confined for the latter part of -the time they were prisoners in Peking. Until -recently their names could still be seen written on -the wall, which, however, has lately been white-washed, -perhaps purposely. Just before turning -into the Meishan we catch a glimpse, in the far -distance, of the beautiful Marble Bridge, spanning -a lake filled with lotus. "Standing on this bridge, -one overlooks a great part of the Imperial palace.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_277" id="Page_277">[277]</a></span> -The banks of the lake are studded with castles, -temples, and gardens," but this, alas! like so much -else in Peking, is closed to foreigners.</p> - -<p>We now pass into the Imperial City, which is -guarded within a wall seven miles in length, and -go down a straight road raised in the centre, the -sandy waste between it and the shops being in -possession of cheap-Jacks and old-clothes' men. -This road is in wonderful repair. The Emperor has -recently passed over it, and the lanterns are freshly -papered and water-butts are set ready at intervals. -Thus the sovereign remains ignorant of the usual -state of the roads, and knows nothing of the misapplication -of public funds. The governor of the -city or of the provinces is responsible for the condition -of the roads, but were His Majesty to elect -to make frequent journeys, the "squeezes" of the -mandarins would be ruinous.</p> - -<p>The Chinese legal and moral code is of the -highest—on paper—but in practice there is a -system of "squeeze," which rules through the -length and breadth of the land; which pervades -all business dealings, and every department of the -government, undermining the integrity of the -country. Everybody must have his "squeeze" -out of every transaction. The Viceroy "squeezes"; -the Governor "squeezes"; the judge, the taota, -the smaller mandarins "squeeze"; for so they -live. The pay is little or nothing. The office is<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_278" id="Page_278">[278]</a></span> -valuable in proportion to its power to "squeeze." -Our "boy" squeezes us, and back again there is a -"squeezissima" within the Royal City itself.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_278.jpg" width="500" height="345" alt="" title="All that is seen of the Forbidden City" /> -<div class="caption"><p>All that is seen of the Forbidden City.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>And now we stand under the walls of the Forbidden -City. They are covered with Imperial -yellow tiles, a deep moat surrounds them, and -they are guarded by bannermen. There are but -two entrances. There, straight before us is the -Coal Hill, surmounted by a pavilion, within which -the last of the Ming dynasty terminated the -life of himself and his Imperial house, when -the victories of the Tartar invader, the capture of -the capital, the submission of the provinces, were -completed. It is an artificial mound, 150 feet<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_279" id="Page_279">[279]</a></span> -high, and as we proceed round the square of the -walls, we see behind, amid the woods, the five -summits, crowned with the five gleaming roofs of -peacock blue, green and yellow of the pavilions -and temples of the Prohibited City. Within its -walls are a park and lake.</p> - -<p>Little else is to be seen beyond the upper walls -and the yellow roofs of the palaces. There are -many of them, none apparently of great size. -But in the centre hall is seated Kwang-Su, "The -Son of Heaven," "The Lord of ten thousand -years." The youth of twenty-two, who in his -sixth year, upon "His Majesty the Emperor -Tung-che suddenly ascending upon the Dragon -to be a guest on high," was called unexpectedly, -like our own Queen Victoria, from his bed in a -distant part of the city to be saluted, in default of -a direct heir, as Emperor of China. Is he the -happier? The Imperial life must be dull and -monotonous beyond bearing for one so young. -In the Forbidden City his Majesty must find all -his distractions. To go into the provinces would -thrice beggar the exchequer.</p> - -<p>There is the Hall of Highest Peace, where his -Majesty gave rare audience to the representatives -of foreign powers. Once only! and what -negotiations it took to bring about! At length, -yes! the Son of Heaven would let the envoys of -the outer world look on him. But they must<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_280" id="Page_280">[280]</a></span> -"kotow" thrice on their knees, touch the ground -with their foreheads, and let the Chinese people -take it as the bearing of tribute. No, the British -Lion, and the eagles of Monarchs and Republics, -cannot bend the knee. The point is carried at -length. "But," says the Council of State, "it is -only in that outer pavilion that our Lord Buddha -will greet you."</p> - -<p>The trained consuls report that this again is a -mark of contempt, and must not be allowed. A more -fitting place is decided upon. Then shall the -Prince Ching present the letters of credit of the -foreign envoys on his knees? No, that cannot be -suffered either. Hand to hand must be the communication -of monarch with monarch.</p> - -<p>At length all was arranged. Their Excellencies -in stars and orders, repair to the palace with their -staffs. A long wait, with sweetmeats served, and -then the audience.</p> - -<p>The German minister, as the senior, reads a short -address, and the envoys are named. Prince Ching -takes their several letters of credit, and places them -before the Son of Heaven. He kneels, and the -Imperial youth speaks low a few words.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_280.jpg" width="560" height="375" alt="" title="HOMAGE TO THE SON OF HEAVEN" /> -<div class="caption"><p>HOMAGE TO "THE SON OF HEAVEN."</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The president of the Tsung Li Ymen goes to -the ministers, and repeats them. The audience is -over—the spell is broken. But even now our old -friend the Austrian minister, Baron Biegeleben, is -finding great difficulty in arranging for the fitting<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_281" id="Page_281">[281]</a></span> -reception of his Imperial and Apostolic Majesty's -Commission.</p> - -<p>It is time this nonsense ceased. If China is -within the pale of nations, she must do as other -nations do. If she is not within the roll of civilized -States, she must be dealt with differently. Of two -things, one!</p> - -<p>Here is the Hall of Central Peace, where the -Emperor examines and sanctions the prayers for -state worship; the Hall of Secure Peace, where the -highest literary degrees are conferred; and the -palace of Heavenly Purity, where the Emperor in -the still morning hour of three, transacts business -with his ministers, and which no one enters or leaves -without his express permission.</p> - -<p>Here at sunrise, the petitions from the six -Boards controlling Imperial affairs are submitted -to the Vermilion Pencil of the Throne; the prayers -also for present and posthumous honours.</p> - -<p>Beyond stands the palace of Earth's Repose, -where "Heaven's Consort" rules over her miniature -court. Adjoining this is a flower garden. -Then the Hall of Intense Thought; where sacrifices -are made to Confucius, the teacher and -thinker. There are other palaces and offices, -amongst them a printing office, for the city is self-contained -and need have no communication with -the outer world. No one knows the population -inside this Prohibited City, whether it is great or<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_282" id="Page_282">[282]</a></span> -small. It is wrapped in mystery, and the imagination -is free to float round the holy of holies, this -Unknown Capital of the Flowery Land.</p> - -<p>There are said to be beautiful gardens, with -fountains and cascades. But what can make up -for the want of variety? Occasionally "the Son -of Heaven" goes forth to worship the ashes of his -ancestors, or the earth and the moon, at this or that -temple.</p> - -<p>Then the way is cleared of all persons—and -matting is put up on either side of the roadway to -prevent the Celestial eyes falling on the people, or -the people from seeing their sovereign. The -foreign ministers are required to warn their -nationals to keep away from the neighbourhood.</p> - -<p>Unfortunate Majesty! How the young Emperor -must yearn for some knowledge and experience -of the outer world, something more than the views -of the aged mandarins around him, to guide him -in his decisions. Small wonder that he should -reject the suggestion recently made of the censor -(who is permitted even to rebuke the throne), -that for some hours in each day he should, in -addition, have the ancient classics read to him. -They say that his youthful Majesty is not wanting -in intelligence and ability, and it is even whispered -that some of the rescripts of the Imperial <cite>Gazette</cite> -of Peking issue from his own hand. Perhaps too -he may look wistfully towards the mausolea being<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_283" id="Page_283">[283]</a></span> -prepared for the Empresses-Dowager, and wonder -if they will prove true to their names: "Happy -Homes for a myriad years."</p> - -<p>We meet a wedding procession as we proceed; -indeed, we are constantly getting mixed up in -these straggling processions, for both yesterday -and to-day the horoscope has cast as lucky, and -they have perhaps been long waited for. The one -is the Fte of the God of Wealth and the Golden -Dragon King; the other of the God of Fire and -the Inventor of Writing. Everything is scarlet. -First come the bannermen, bearing aloft on -poles red boards, on which are inscribed the -titles of the father of the bride. They are generally -a string of dirty men and boys, the scum of -the city, dressed in scarlet, with black hats and -feathers sticking up like a Red Indian. More men -follow, carrying lanterns and draped pagodas, -and a cage with white ducks, an emblem of -conjugal fidelity. Next comes the band, with -enormous drums, draped in red and yellow silk, -and ludicrous gilt trombones, which the musician -puffs valiantly into, only to produce a sound like -the wheeze of a bagpipe. Lastly comes the closed -palanquin, richly gilt and embroidered, followed -by another containing the parents. It is the day -of triumph for the almond-eyed one with the little -feet, within the closely-curtained vermilion palanquin. -With blare of trumpets and songs of joy<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_284" id="Page_284">[284]</a></span> -she is borne through the streets, securely locked, -to the bridegroom's house, where the mother -delivers her up with the key of the chair, to the -husband, to whom in childhood's innocent hours -she was affianced.</p> - -<p>All day we are passing houses, outside which -are lanterns on red poles, arranged in a square, -with archways and decorations, and waiting -palanquins and carts, whilst the feast is proceeding -inside. In the afternoon we see several -whence the guests are streaming away from the -festivity, the ladies of small feet being carried -by their attendants to their palanquins. It is -the prerogative of every poor relation and connection -to attend this feast, and often the parents -can ill afford such an expense; still, it must be -done, or "face" will be lost. Like the "squeeze," -this "face," or prestige, is another prominent -feature of Chinese life. It is as pronounced as the -caste difficulty in India, and pervades every detail -of life. The most roundabout methods and transparent -deceits are resorted to, to save a man's -"face," viz. his credit, or renown.</p> - -<p>A funeral is an equally elaborate ceremony. -We saw preparations for one in a village, coming -up the Peiho. Outside the deceased's house were -erected straw archways, whilst a catafalque of -enormous dimensions was waiting at the door. -As we watched, a life-sized wooden horse, with a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_285" id="Page_285">[285]</a></span> -sham rider, arrived, drawn on a board, to figure in -the procession. The mourners will all wear white, -and as many as sixty-four men will aid in carrying -the coffin to its resting-place. Food and money will -be offered to the evil spirits to propitiate them, and -every care taken that the spirit of the deceased -shall rest in peace.</p> - -<p>Then the tablet will be placed in the family -memorial chamber, and sons and grandsons, and -great granddaughters and their children, will come -in the ages of the future, to tell the spirit of the -departed, of the marriage, of the illness, of the -promotion, or the fall of a descendant. It may be, -too, that a future scion of the house may render -service to the State—be made a Viceroy, a President -of a Board, a Member of the Grand Council. -Will his Imperial Master reward him with title to -descend in a few months to an unworthy son? No, -the peerage, the honour, will be posthumously -rendered by decree of the emperor to the ancestor, -be so notified in the Peking <cite>Gazette</cite>, and, amid a -gathering of all kindred, be heralded unto the great -Unknown in the Memorial Hall. "Great is the son -who bringeth his father honour."</p> - -<p>For this ancestor-worship seems to be the only -religion which the people practise. Some are Confucians, -some Buddhists, some Taoists, but they -are held as only moral and perfunctory faiths, -whereas this worship of the dead is very real to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_286" id="Page_286">[286]</a></span> -them, and faithfully performed. They do right, -because they fear to disturb the spirits of their -forefathers, who will haunt their homes and cause -evil to fall on their families, if they do wrong.</p> - -<p>We return home by an even dirtier and more -slovenly road, past the various Ymens of the -Board of Works, the Board of War, and the Navy, -and the Board of Punishments, which obtained -such a bad notoriety for the cruelties perpetrated -in 1860. There is nothing, however, to see from -outside, but an archway leading to several courts.</p> - -<p>We spent the afternoon in visiting the various -Missionary Establishments of the different nationalities, -which have their headquarters at Peking. -First to the spacious compound of the American -Methodist Episcopal Church, where we saw the -boys' and girls' school, the sleeping apartments -and dining halls, for they feed and house, but do -not clothe them. Their method is to admit the -scholars and give them a Christian education, with -good influences, without, however, obliging them -to become Christians. But whether the writing -of essays in English, and the teaching of the -piano to girls, is conducive to or comes under -the head of missionary work, I am not competent -to judge. I should think it better if the teachers -were to learn Chinese, and teach the children in -their own language, a knowledge of English not -being essential to their becoming Christians.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_287" id="Page_287">[287]</a></span></p> - -<p>Next we visited a branch of the French Roman -Catholic Mission, which, under the able leadership -of Pre Favier, has done much good work. The -school with its day scholar's enclosure, lies under -the beautiful Roman Catholic Church, with its -twin pinnacles and splendid interior, the altar -being inlaid with cloisonn. The organ was -bought with the proceeds of the sale of a valuable -carpet that came into the hands of the Fathers. -The cathedral and bishop are at Peitang on the -other side of the city. Since the early days of the -Jesuit Fathers, the Roman Catholics have always -been active in China. They claim to have 700,000 -converts. Their success, in comparison with other -sects, may perhaps be attributed to the fact, that -their ritual and gaily decorated churches are more -attractive, and in accordance with the Buddhist -religion and temples; but it must also be said, -that the priests go amongst the people, adopt their -life, and wear Chinese clothes, including the pigtail. -Aided by the nuns, they minister to the -temporal wants of the population, as well as the -spiritual. Also these priests, when they leave -France, come out for life and receive only 100 -taels, or 20<em>l.</em> a year, whilst the American -missionaries are reputed to receive 100 taels <em>a -month</em>, and 200 taels a year for every child. -Perhaps this may account for their numerous -families. The S.P.G. Branch of mission work<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_288" id="Page_288">[288]</a></span> -under Bishop Scott boasts, alas! few converts in -their schools, but as they are thorough, and refuse -to have any suspicion of "rice Christians," as the -doubtful converts are called, this can be accounted -for. The London Mission does good work, but -perhaps the most successful of all is the China -Inland Mission, owing its existence to its north-country -founder—Hudson Taylor—a man unknown -to great fame, but who has done, and is doing -a great work in this far-distant corner of the world.</p> - -<p>We expected to hear a great deal about these -late riots at Wuhu, or Wusueh, when we came -to Peking. We had read the alarming articles in -the North China <cite>Daily News</cite> of the excited state -of the country, the imminent dangers hanging -over the European population at the Treaty Ports, -and of the arming of the British Legation here. -We are almost disappointed to find a serene atmosphere -of safety.</p> - -<p>There are some who are found to attribute the -pretext for the commencement of these riots to -the Roman Catholic nuns, who by succouring -the foundlings, especially the despised females, -to educate in their convent schools, arouse -the suspicion of kidnapping them for the purposes -of witchcraft. The mortality being high, -they are even accused of taking out the eyes of -children to make an elixir of life, and of other -atrocities. The same charge brought about the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_289" id="Page_289">[289]</a></span> -dreadful massacre of Tientsin in 1870. More -probably, however, this is only an excuse for a -rising, which is really fomented by one of those -secret societies, like the Kalao Hui, which honeycomb -China.</p> - -<p>Peking is celebrated for its furs, particularly for -sables. London is the great market of the world, -receiving the supplies of the Hudson Bay Company -and Canada, but whenever an emperor or -prince or great noble in Russia requires a fur, it is -to Peking that they send. The sables are wonderfully -cheap, only costing from 6 to 8 dollars -each, but, owing to a difference of treatment in -smoking, they are not so dark as those we call -Russian sables. They have also a good many -white hairs. There are squirrel skins of soft, -brown fur, thousands being sewn together to form -a single coat. Then there are black and white -astrakans, beaver, and otter, and that lovely, silky -white fur, the wool of the Tibet sheep. We were -offered a mandarin's sable robe, perhaps a booty -from the looting of the Summer Palace, for 300 -dollars, and I think we shall always regret that -we did not invest in it as an heirloom.</p> - -<p>We came out of the Legation Hall one morning, -to find a picturesque sight of curio dealers -squatted beside their blue bundles, or spreading -their bright-coloured embroideries, under the open -pagoda porches of this princely palace.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_290" id="Page_290">[290]</a></span></p> - -<p>Peking is known for the antiquity and splendour -of its embroideries,—the best in China; but I cannot -fancy golden dragons on cerise satin grounds, -or pink flowers on an ultramarine blue, nor yet all -the flaming purples, crimsons and oranges (the -Imperial yellow alone being beautiful), after the -delicate half-tones, and pale tints of the Japanese -embroideries. It is always the same in China. -Everything is ugly, the colouring and designs -hideous. They are grotesque and not quaint, -gaudy and not brilliant. And we have visited -many curio shops, only to leave them in despair. -The single beautiful things are the <i xml:lang="fr" lang="fr">objets de vertu</i> in -jade and crystal, tiny cups and vases, snuff bottles, -carved images, all so delicately wrought, but -charged for as if worth their weight in gold.</p> - -<p>Then tiffen with Sir Robert Hart, the chief of -the Imperial Maritime Customs. He has been -out here for 30 years, and knows as much as any -man, probably a thousand-fold more, about China. -His conversation was most interesting. His -position is unique, for Sir Robert collects and has -absolute control over all the levies on foreign -goods; and a large part of the finances of China -pass through his hands.</p> - -<p>We proceed to see the Examination Hall of the -second and third degrees, that for the first being -held under the Emperor's eyes.</p> - -<p>This Examination is a remarkable feature in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_291" id="Page_291">[291]</a></span> -Chinese life. It is the ambition of every man, -whatever his position or calling, to become a -student, for it is the avenue to all greatness, and -the means whereby all posts of honour or emolument -are to be obtained.</p> - -<p>Strange it is that in this stronghold of conservatism, -there should be found such a radical -feature, whereby the humblest-born may raise himself -by his own efforts to the rank of "big" mandarin. -Very honourable it is, too, that the greatest -attainment, the highest ambition and reward which -the country offers, is the possession of this much -coveted "First Degree." Year after year, the -same men come up, and it must be a noble and -touching sight, when, as is sometimes the case, an -old man of ninety will offer himself. Though -after a certain age, three trials entitle aged candidates -to a degree <i xml:lang="la" lang="la">honoris causa</i>. These examinations -are held in each province, and consist -entirely in the writing of essays on classical -subjects. The successful ones are afterwards -published, and the victorious candidates accorded -public and local honours.</p> - -<p>We pass through some empty courts, under -several peilaus, erected in honour of great -scholars, once gay with rainbow paint, but now, -of course, dusty and decaying. We can go no -further—for across the great doors is placed an -official seal, consisting of two strips of red paper<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_292" id="Page_292">[292]</a></span> -placed crossways. We presume that the examination -is still proceeding; 10,400 students from this -great province of Chihli having presented themselves -this year. The great expense, and the slow, -tedious journey to Peking, does not deter the -aspirants. For fourteen days and nights they are -shut up in separate cells, with desk, chair, paper, -pen and ink, their provisions being handed to -them through a trap door in the wall. Thankful -they must be when the ordeal is over.</p> - -<p>We went on the last afternoon to see the -Tsungli Ymen, or Foreign Office—the Board -which alone has dealings with the representatives -of foreign countries. We pity these in their -frequent pilgrimages thither; for to reach it we -passed through a succession of the filthiest lanes, -tortuous and narrow, bordered with stinking heaps -of rubbish. In one of these was the green lion-guarded -residence of the Emperor's cousin, Prince -Tung, and all these fashionable dwelling-houses -with their crumbling walls, from which the coatings -of whitewash are peeling, are surrounded by -these disgusting passages. Arrived at the Tsungli -Ymen, I only see the outer gateways of green -and gold, for of course its desecration by feminine -feet is not to be thought of.</p> - -<p>Peking is for this reason a disappointment. -There is so much to see, and yet so little that can -be seen. Of recent years they have closed nearly<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_293" id="Page_293">[293]</a></span> -everything to foreigners, and the bitter feeling -against Europeans seems to be increasing. The -Lama Temple you cannot visit on account of the -hostile attitude of the people. Closed are all the -Imperial buildings of the Prohibited City. The -Marble Bridge, the Temple of Agriculture, where -the emperor ploughs a furrow in springtime, but -above all, invisible is the Temple of Heaven.</p> - -<p>This latter temple is the most interesting sight -of the Chinese City. Its name properly speaking, -means, "the Altar of Heaven," for the Emperor -attends here to sacrifice twice a year. It is said -that "The worship of the Heaven or Supreme -Ruler is the most important of all the state -observances in China", before the rationalism of the -Confucianists and the polytheistic superstition of -Buddhism predominated. There are no images of -any kind in the temple, and the offering of whole -burnt bullocks, strikingly reminds us of the ancient -custom of western religions, as that of the Hebrews -and Greeks. The ceremonies of the sacrifices are -kept with the utmost severity, and are of a very -complicated nature.</p> - -<p>The chief sacrifice is at the winter solstice. On -the 20th day of December, the offerings and an -elephant carriage are sent with great array to the -temple, and on the 21st the Emperor follows in a -sedan chair, covered with yellow silk, and carried -by thirty-two men; he is preceded by a band of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_294" id="Page_294">[294]</a></span> -musicians, and followed by an immense retinue, -including the princes, high officials, "big" and -"little" mandarins, all on horseback. Having -arrived at the temple, His Majesty offers incense -to Heaven and to his ancestors, and inspects the -offerings; then he is conveyed on the elephant -carriage to the Palace of Abstinence, where he is -not allowed to take any animal food or wine, nor -to sleep. Next morning, seven quarters before -sunrise, he puts on his sacrificial robes and goes to -the southern gate of the outer enclosure, dismounts -from the carriage and walks to the great altar, -where an Imperial yellow tent has been erected on -the second terrace. At the moment he arrives at -the spot where he kneels, the fire of the sacrifice -is kindled and music is heard. The Emperor then -proceeds to the upper terrace of the altar, kneels -and burns incense before Heaven and also presents -incense to his ancestors. Then he makes three -genuflections, and one prostration, and offers -bundles of silk, jade cups and other gifts, music -being heard all the time. Afterwards he kneels -at another point of the altar, where an officer -reads a prayer aloud. At last he receives kneeling -the "cup of happiness" and the "flesh of happiness." -With the first dawn the whole party return -to the palace. Foreigners, who watched the party -when passing the Ch'ien-men from the city wall, -speak highly of the splendid appearance of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_295" id="Page_295">[295]</a></span> -whole procession: hundreds of officials in brilliant -robes of state and numberless followers on horseback, -among them a company of the Imperial Life -Guards.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_295.jpg" width="560" height="325" alt="" title="THE GREAT WALL" /> -<div class="caption"><p>THE GREAT WALL.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>A similar sacrifice takes place at the spring -solstice, with the same ceremonies, at the northern -altar, but the motive is the special prayer for a -prosperous harvest, whilst the winter sacrifice is -offered for a blessing upon the whole empire.</p> - -<p>We cannot see the ruins of the Summer Palace, -the Yuan-ming-yuan, or Round and Splendid -Garden, and which is distant about ten miles -from Peking. "It is a delightful park with a rich -variety of groves, temples, lakes, palaces and -pavilions," and must from the photographs be -very beautiful. It stands there for ever, as a -memorial left to embitter the Chinese against us, -yet who could say but that Lord Elgin, by destroying -the Palace of their thrice sacred monarch, -brought home to them a fit and righteous judgment?</p> - -<p>But our greatest disappointment of all is that -we must give up a five days' expedition to the -Great Wall if we would take the French mail from -Shanghai. "Fancy going to Peking and not -seeing <em>the</em> Wall!" I can hear someone exclaim. -Well, we shall not be all unique in this, for three-fourths -of the hundred foreigners who live in -Peking have never been, nor ever intend to go.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_296" id="Page_296">[296]</a></span> -An artificial interest, all out of proportion to the -reality, is created by its great antiquity. Finished -in 204. <span class="smcap">B.C.</span> (for it took ten years in building) for -1500 miles this great wall, which was intended to -keep out all the enemies of China, runs up and -down the northern face of the country, in one -place over a peak of 5225 feet high. It is constructed -of earth and stones. It has been truly -said: "that looking over the surface of our globe, -it is the only artificial structure that would arrest -the gaze."</p> - -<p>The grapes are sour. For after all, the visitors -who go do not see the real Great Wall, but only -a spur of more modern date. Also the walls of -Peking are considerably higher and more imposing.</p> - -<p>As is only fit and proper, for they are the most -interesting feature of the city, we make our farewell -to Peking from those grand Walls.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_297" id="Page_297">[297]</a></span></p> - - - - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XI" id="CHAPTER_XI"></a>CHAPTER XI.<br /> - -<span class="smallish">SHANGHAI AND HONG-KONG.</span></h2> - - -<p>We left Peking at dawn. Through the silent -streets of the Tartar City we drove, passing for -the last time through the Gate of Sublime Learning -on to the sandy waste outside, jolting along -under the great Walls, with the sun rising to meet -us.</p> - -<p>We are returning to Tungchau by the Canal, and -so saving the penalties of the road and the dust, -but owing to the numerous locks, we have to -transship no less than five times from one boat to -another. This waterway is in connection with the -great Imperial canal, another, like the Great Wall, -of those time-enduring monuments of the industry -of a great people—and serves to transport the -tribute of rice from the south to Peking. The -locks are very picturesque, being built of yellow -blocks of stone, over which the running water -forms a waterfall overshadowed by trees. It is a -quaint slow mode of travelling, gently rippling -along over the mirror surface of the water, past<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_298" id="Page_298">[298]</a></span> -great rustling beds of pampas grass twelve feet -high, opposite one of which some Chinese sportsmen, -with their matchlocks and lighted fuses, are -crouched ready to fire at the wild ducks that -abound in these watery marshes. Amongst the -groves of trees, which look golden in their autumn -foliage against a clear blue sky, we see many -memorial peilaus, and those other monuments of -stone pyramids springing from the back of a -huge tortoise. The air is still and clear as early -autumn, and the sounds from the mud villages -we pass, are borne clearly to us. The walls of -Peking, with their crenellated gateways, are just -fading away into the blue haze.</p> - -<p>Five hours of tedious progress makes our eyes -glad to see the beautiful carved bridge of Palikiao, -where the combat in 1860 took place, and the -damage then done to the bridge has never been -repaired. In a few minutes more the pagoda -of Tungchau looms up, and the canal rapidly -narrows.</p> - -<p>We reach Tungchau in a veritable dust-storm, -that blows the loose sand by the banks into spiral -columns and pillars, and embark once more on -the house-boat. It seems quite like coming home. -Then we begin the Peiho's weary succession of -winding reaches, with the endless continuation of -mud banks and yellow water.</p> - -<p>The prospect next morning was disheartening.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_299" id="Page_299">[299]</a></span> -The wind was strong and dead ahead, and though -our men had worked all night, certain landmarks -told us that our progress was far from satisfactory. -All through that long day we crawled along; -weary work it was for our poor tired crew. As -bend after bend opened out before us and receded, -each one so exactly like the other, we registered -a hope that we might never more see the Peiho. -Evening closed in, night succeeded, and we yet -vainly looked for the lights of Tientsin. As so -often happens after a long watching, we seemed to -arrive suddenly. Our plank door was removed, -and we found ourselves at Tientsin and the Bridge -of Boats, and amid the grateful "kotows" of our -men for a gratuity well earned by such patient -toil, we sped in jinrikishas through the dimly-lighted -city, where everyone carries his own -swinging coloured lantern, to the Consulate once -more.</p> - -<p>We found a China Merchant's steamer, the <i>Shin -Sheng</i>, leaving Tientsin the next morning, and -embarked at once. Two unsuccessful attempts at -turning the steamer opposite the wharf we made; -the third succeeded, but when she was broadside -across the stream, stem and stern touched the -banks. We passed safely through the perilous -bends of the river, only grounding occasionally, -but once the bows of the <em>Shin Sheng</em> ran up on -to the bank, and cut clean away quite ten feet of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_300" id="Page_300">[300]</a></span> -it. A little mud-house stood on the angle, and the -old village harpy to whom it belonged, came out -and shook her fist at the captain on the bridge, -showering imprecations on his head, and small -wonder, for some time previously the bows of his -ship had gone <em>into</em> her house and wrecked it! -We breathed more freely when the forts of Taku -passed, the Bar, or "Heaven-sent Barrier," -crossed, and the pilot left behind, we emerged -without mishap into the Yellow Sea.</p> - -<p>We had a fearful tossing in the Gulf of Pecheli. -At Chefoo we called for cargo. It is a pretty seaside -place, with a splendid beach and bathing sands, -a boon to the residents of Shanghai, who either -come here or go to Japan for the summer months. -It was too rough for the lighters to come off, so -we anchored for the night. The next morning -a gale was blowing in the roadstead—the breaking -of the north-east monsoon—and we had to -move round under the lea of the bluff. Our -hearts sink within us, and we despair of catching -the French mail, which means waiting at -Shanghai a week for the P. and O. Returning -when the gale moderated, the agent sent off to -say that we were to start at once and not wait for -the cargo, so we have wasted eighteen hours -rolling and knocking about for nothing.</p> - -<p>We had not gone more than two miles out, -when the engineer sent to say that a valve was leaking;<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_301" id="Page_301">[301]</a></span> -this necessitated putting back again, and a -further delay. At last we get really off. Certainly -we have endured much to see Peking. -Two days afterwards we are in the mouth of the -Yangtze, anxiously looking for the black funnels -of the <em>Messageries</em> boat. We know she should have -left at noon to-day, and it is just that hour. Yes, -it is all right. She is still there, surrounded by -lighters, and we steam close to find out that she -sails in twenty hours. There has been a delay of -one day, luckily for us.</p> - -<p>We proceed up the Woosung tributary of the -Yangtze. It is a glorious morning. The junks, -painted in gaudy colours, with the all-seeing, -staring white and black eye, glide past us. The -banks are lined with a fort, factories, dock and -ship-building yard, a gay scene of thriving commercial -activity. Before us now opens out the -bright green lawn of the Bund, of Shanghai, with -its blue-roofed pagoda for the band, backed by -a row of handsome oriental-looking houses and -"hongs," with green blinds and deep verandas. -There is the buff and grey of the German consulate, -and the grey and red of the Japanese, whilst -the French tricolour flies over, and indicates the -French settlement, and in the far corner, to the -right, is the British flag over our own consulate and -garden. The numerous tributaries of the Yangtze -are bridged over, and join the quay together.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_302" id="Page_302">[302]</a></span></p> - -<p>One of the prettiest sights in coming up to -Shanghai, or "upper Sea," is to see the men-of-war -and gun-boats of all nations, lying side by side -in the river before the Bund. There are English, -American, French, German, Spanish, and Japanese -men-of-war and a Chinese gunboat, each floating -their star and stripes, tricolour, Union Jack, Black -Eagle, red ball on a white ground (Japanese) and -the Imperial Dragon.</p> - -<p>Shanghai is a gay, bright clean place, where upwards -of 4000 Europeans reside, the majority being -British. These claim for it the title of the Paris of -the East, and the shops and broad well-kept streets -make it worthy of the name. You have, too, the -picturesque element of Chinese life without the -accompanying dirt and squalor, for the typical -Chinese town with its filthy narrow streets is relegated -to the back of the settlement. All life -centres on the Bund, which we and everyone else -are always passing up and down; and here -amongst the smart little broughams, that are like -Indian gharries, and the Victorias, dog-carts, and -phaetons, with their scarlet-clad mafoos and syces, -mingle the sedan-chairs of magnates, the Chinese -wheelbarrow, with the passengers balancing on -either side, and the brightly lined green and red -jinricksha. There is the same cosmopolitan crowd -on the pavements overflowing into the road, for -the white "ducks" and flannels of the Europeans,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_303" id="Page_303">[303]</a></span> -mingle with the bright blue, green, maroon, crimson, -brown and yellow coats of the merchants and -compradores. For many of the hongs (as the places -of business are called) are on the Bund—whilst -the loose coats and shiny trousers of the Chinese -ladies, with their smooth coils of black hair interlaced -with green jade hair-pins and long pendant -earrings, are seen side by side with the flowing -robes and turbaned heads of an Indian.</p> - -<p>We called at the British consulate, which lies in -an enclosure of spacious green lawn with palms -and flower-beds. There stands here a superb -granite cross erected to the memory of the five -victims, and companions of Sir Harry Parkes, and -to avenge whose murder, the Summer Palace was -burnt and looted by the French. Further along, -on the Bund, is the statue to Sir Harry Parkes, a -little man with large whiskers, but a very able -diplomatist, whose death was universally mourned -by the Europeans in China. The English cathedral -and deanery lie at the back of the Bund. The -streets are so broad and clean, the roads so firm, -that it is a pleasure to be on them, particularly -after those of Peking. It is because they are under -the supervision of an English Municipal Council, -and they deserve for them the greatest credit.</p> - -<p>At four o'clock we went to a meet of the Tandem -Club, the last of the season, held in front of the -bank. There are fifteen members, but ten only<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_304" id="Page_304">[304]</a></span> -turned out, and were led off by the only tandem of -horses. The other teams were all of the short-necked, -thick-set, Chinese ponies driven in a modified -dog-cart. Then we strolled along on the grass -under the trees to the gardens, to listen to the -Manila band. These gardens slope with green -lawns to the water's edge, and the wandering paths -lead by beds, bright with heliotrope, geraniums, -chrysanthemums, and tropical growths of banyan -trees, palms, magnolias, indiarubber and castor-oil -plants, amidst which pale-faced children are -playing in charge of their Chinese amahs. In the -evening we dined with Mr. and Mrs. Robert Little. -He is the able editor of the <cite>North China Daily -News</cite>.</p> - -<p>On a lovely Sunday morning we embark on the -steam tug, and once more, for the third and last -time, go down to Woosung. In an hour we are on -board the Messageries Maritime's s.s. <em>Caldonien</em>, -critically surveying our home for the next five -weeks.</p> - -<p>The Messageries line has the advantage of the -P. and O. in that they are more generous in giving -separate cabins, the cuisine is said to be better, -and indeed they take trouble to make it so, sending -the cooks every two years back to a restaurant -in Paris. It is also an immense boon (which -everybody who has travelled much will appreciate) -to have fixed places for dinner only, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_305" id="Page_305">[305]</a></span> -at the other meals a free choice of companions. -The saloon is spacious, and there is a splendid -promenade deck, which is, however, somewhat -spoilt by the influx of too numerous, second-class -passengers, who share the privilege of using it.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_305.jpg" width="560" height="339" alt="" title="Harbour of Hong-Kong" /> -<div class="caption"><p>Harbour of Hong-Kong.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The north-east monsoon is with us, and in two -days and a half from leaving Shanghai, and after -passing through the Straits of Formosa, between -the mainland of China and the island of that name, -past Foochow and Amoy, which are too far distant -to be seen, we anchor at Hong Kong at midnight. -Though dark, it is a starlight night. Hong -Kong, or "Good Harbour," presents itself to us in -bright electric arches of light, thrown far up on -the sides of the peak, whilst its beautiful harbour -is traced out for us by the twinkle of lights from<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_306" id="Page_306">[306]</a></span> -the sampans, moored in hundreds along the wharf, -by the swiftly moving jinricksha lights coursing -along the road of the sea-shore, and the dots of -lights on the rocking masts or the gleaming eyes -of steam-tugs in the harbour.</p> - -<p>We have decided to give up Canton, see what -we can of Hong Kong in the time the steamer -stays, and not wait a week for the next mail.</p> - -<p>I was once told that no one has ever done justice -to the beauties of Hong Kong, and as we landed -at sunrise on the quay I was inclined to agree to -this. The deep verandas of the Eastern-looking -houses, with their pale pink and drab tints, the -cool arcades, and above all the tropical wealth of -vegetation, makes Hong Kong the prettiest of -Eastern cities.</p> - -<p>Leaving Queen's Road, we are carried up in chairs -under a lovely overhanging avenue of banyan -trees, whose huge knotted roots lie round the path, -whilst from the grateful shade of their thick leaves -above, depend the long thread-like tendrils, forming -a transparent curtain. Past the grey, weather-stained -cathedral we go, hidden away in a little -recess under the hills, past the barracks, whence -sound the bagpipes of Princess Louise's Highlanders, -to the station of the mountain railway up -the peak. "The Peak"—what would Hong Kong -be without this prominent feature? True, by keeping -off the sea-breezes and by penning the town in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_307" id="Page_307">[307]</a></span> -the narrow strip between the harbour and the -mountain, it makes it steamy, unhealthy, fever-stricken -and well-nigh uninhabitable in summer, -but then it provides a sanatorium on the many -summits of its heights, where every available platform -is occupied by a house.</p> - -<p>Unflinchingly straight up runs the line of the railway, -and as we ascend, we look down on the roofs -of the houses, perched without any sequence, up -and down the side of the hills, into gardens and -tennis courts, and the green waters of a reservoir -below; over the black and white speckled mass that -stands for the town, further out to the harbour, -a blue pond studded with black spots by the -steamers, whilst the sampans are brown dots. The -range of barren rocky mountains close round the -harbour, and there is Koolong, with its wharves and -godowns, on the Chinese mainland, whilst we are -on the Island of British soil. It is a beautiful view, -this bird's-eye panorama of the town and harbour, -from Victoria gap.</p> - -<p>You must see the Peak to realize its real height, -its scarcely sloping shoulders, covered with tropical -growth in the valley, growing scantier and scantier, -until you reach the summit, bare and rocky. Two -enormous hotels, and many houses, populate the -spacy crest. And the peep over the other side of -green rounded hills, running down to the sea, is -simply lovely, whilst the views from every point<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_308" id="Page_308">[308]</a></span> -are far-reaching and exhaustive. We take chairs -and go to the point, but one degree lower than the -topmost one, where stands the signal station, to -the bungalow of Government House. Early as it -is, and late in the season, we find the heat terrific. -Everyone is obliged to come and live up here in -the summer, the nights in Hong Kong bringing no -relief, and the difference in the temperature is often -as much as 9. As we return we meet all the -business men, in the coolest of white costumes, -being carried in chairs by coolies in smart uniforms -of white with blue or scarlet sashes, to the -station, going down to town for the day's work.</p> - -<p>In descending, we return to the main thoroughfare -of Queen's Road, and after some shopping, go -to the City Hall, and the marble palace of the -Shanghai and Hong Kong bank, where I wait outside -to watch the ever-varying stream of passers-by. -Chinamen in their cool cotton jackets and glazed -pantaloons, coolies with their bamboo-slung burdens, -sedan-chairs, jinrickshas, wheelbarrows, -chairs, Sikh policemen with their scarlet turbans, -Cinghalese, Parsees, mingling with our own officers -and soldiers, under the shadow of the trees.</p> - -<p>And then we drive out to the Happy Valley, -and come suddenly upon that beautiful green lawn, -lying so naturally in the midst of luxuriantly -wooded hills. It is truly a felicitous little spot, -with its racecourse marked out by white railing<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_309" id="Page_309">[309]</a></span> -and its Grand Stand. But it is the cemetery which -fills us with admiration, and one would fain that -the Happy Valley were not desecrated by the racecourse, -but rather consecrated to the peaceful -repose of the dead. They are separated only by -the breadth of the road.</p> - -<p>Of all the God's acres in all parts of the world, -including the beautiful one of Mount Auburn, at -Boston, but perhaps excepting the English cemetery -on the heights of Scutari, at Constantinople, or -that at Cannes, this one of the Happy Valley is the -most perfect. Entering by a gate in the walls, you -find yourself in a tropical garden, skilfully laid out, -and growing around you in profuse luxuriance,—palms -with graceful waving arms, mighty clumps of -feathery bamboos, delicate spreading tree ferns, -crotons of orange and yellow and variegated green, -hibiscus with their single blood-red blossom, colias, -camellia and azaleas, bushes of flowering wax-like -alamanders, trailing masses of purple buganvillea, -all the hot-house flowers we prize at home, and -that grow so unwillingly with us, when compared to -this almost oppressive wealth of nature. Amongst -the bright gravel paths and green lawns, rise massive -pillars, granite crosses and cenotaphs, memorials -erected by soldiers and sailors to their -comrades—to many who, alas! have perished from -the deadly effects of a climate which yet produces -all this beauty that is around us.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_310" id="Page_310">[310]</a></span></p> - -<p>We return to luncheon at Government House, on -the kindly invitation of General and Mrs. Barker, the -acting-governor until Sir William Robinson arrives -next month. With a scramble, and the aid of the -Government steam-launch, we just catch the <em>Caldonien</em> -as she weighs anchor. We passed out -through the southern passage of the Island, on our -way to Saigon, the capital of French Cochin -China.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_311" id="Page_311">[311]</a></span></p> - - - - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XII" id="CHAPTER_XII"></a>CHAPTER XII.<br /> - -<span class="smallish">COCHIN CHINA.</span></h2> - - -<p>For the last two days we have been in sight of the -coast of Annam.</p> - -<p>When shall we be at Cape St. Jacques? Shall -we lose the tide? This is the question which -one asks of the other on board. And by 6 a.m. we -find ourselves at rest, waiting outside the bar of the -river Dannai, for the tide to turn, to ascend inland -to Saigon. Saigon is the French capital of Cochin -China, or Indo-China, as it is called, and is the -chief city of the provinces of Annam, Tonquin, -and before long of Gambogia, when the present -King dies.</p> - -<p>Cape St. Jacques is a pretty green foreland, -jutting out into the sea, fringed with cocoa-nut -palms, and has a large white hotel, built by the -Pilot. Surely by this roadstead upon the hills, -courting the breezes of the north-east monsoon, -with the ample anchorage in the rear, the French -might have fixed the capital of Cochin China. But<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_312" id="Page_312">[312]</a></span> -no. They placed it, as in olden time, far up a -tortuous river, with a narrow channel. The delay, -and the pilotage, frighten away the ocean greyhounds -of commerce.</p> - -<p>We weigh anchor. It is one o'clock. The sun -is blazing hot, and there is not a breath of air. -But it is cool, they say, compared to what Saigon -will be. We shall see. Now we are in the winding -channel. North, south, east, west, we steer. -Larboard! Triboard! Four hours we steam up -the river Dannai, with its flat banks of mangrove -swamps, and tangle of tropical vegetation, where -they say tigers come out to sun themselves on the -sands. We sight at length the cathedral towers -of Saigon. They are to the right of us. In -another instant they will be to the left. Then we -appear to have passed them, for we see the town -on the starboard quarter.</p> - -<p>But at five we are at the quay, which is shaded -by avenues of trees, with the hibiscus, blossoming -garden of the agent's house opposite—an old -temple with rows of fierce-tailed dragons guarding -the roof. On the wharf, the usual motley crowd -thickening every minute as the news of our arrival -spreads, whilst Victorias, drawn by those beautiful, -though rat-like, ponies that are bred in Tonquin, -are in waiting. These latter only come out at five -in the evening, and in the daytime we must be -content with the malabars, as the shuttered gharries<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_313" id="Page_313">[313]</a></span> -are called, from the Annamite name of the coachman.</p> - -<p>We take the fashionable drive of Saigon, the -<i xml:lang="fr" lang="fr">tour d'inspection</i>. Off we go, flying as the wind, -past some native houses, built on piles over a -green swamp, with waving palms above them. -Here flourish the Cochin China pig, the real pig of -original breed, with its pink, bow-shaped back, and -earth-touching stomach, and the bright-plumaged -Cochin China fowls. We should like to buy -specimens of the animals that have made Cochin -China celebrate at home, but doubt the warmth -of our reception on board-ship if we return with -them. We cross the bridge, and look over the -hundreds of sampans that swarm up this creek of -the river; then drive along for a few yards by the -steam tramway which connects the China town of -Cholons with Saigon, out under the cool wide -avenues of the Quai du Commerce, with its arsenal -and Bureaux d'Affaires. The roads are as flat and -firm as a billiard table.</p> - -<p>Beautiful boulevards, wide streets, great cafs, -where pale-faced Frenchmen sip absinthe and -petits verres. It is Paris. Bravo, La France! -But it would be much better for these gay causeurs, -to play lawn-tennis, and football, cricket, rackets -and rounders, as do the English at Hong Kong, -Singapore, and Colombo, thus defying, in large -measure, or at least postponing, the action of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_314" id="Page_314">[314]</a></span> -tropics. It is thirty years since the French acquired -Saigon and Cochin China. At one time it -promised to be a prosperous colony. But that day -is past. Commercial depression reigns supreme, -and France wearies of the large subsidies swallowed -up without results by Tonquin. That, though, is -not our business. We rather admire the feats -of engineering, of laying out, and the horticultural -skill.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_314.jpg" width="366" height="560" alt="" title="BOTANICAL GARDEN, SAIGON" /> -<div class="caption"><p>BOTANICAL GARDEN, SAIGON.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>We see this in perfection in the Jardin d'Acclimitasion, -but with a wealth of natural vegetation, -how easy it is to make a garden such a paradise -as is this. In the deep bend of the river are the -green lawns and forest-trees of this botanical -garden. There are banyan trees with their trellise -curtains of roots sweeping the ground, cacti in a -mighty spiky group, standing apart. Single aloes, -with their blooming crests, and the palms—they -form a palmery of themselves, with the various -specimens of cocoa or tree palms, their straight -grey stems tufted at the top; of sago palms, with -their graceful curving arms, shadowing the lawns; -of travellers, with their hands of mighty fingers -outspread from the single stem, all and every kind -luxuriantly magnificent, a single one of which -would assist in making the fortune of a London -florist, such as we who see them dwarfed and frozen -when exiled to our northern climes, are scarcely -able to realize that they are of the same species.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_315" id="Page_315">[315]</a></span> -There are magnolias and camellias, growing to -the height of our forest trees, bamboo clumps, -whose single-jointed stems spring equally high, -and mimosa trees, with their tender sensitive leaf, -as spreading as our chestnuts. And all these trees -are banked up with and grow out of brilliant beds of -variegated green and yellow crotons, of caladiums, -with their enormous boat-shaped leaves of pink -oleanders, of crimson hibiscus, and purple bougainvillea, -and cconvolvulus, whilst orange and lemon -trees, India rubber and mangoes, mingle with the -heavy green and yellow melon-like fruit of the -pommelo. In the midst of this is an aviary, and -cages of rare animals, natives of these tropical -regions. We particularly notice the white pigeon, -with the single blood-red spot on the bosom.</p> - -<p>We wander about in the dusky growth of overpowering -luxuriance, which to us appears so -supremely beautiful, but which they say in its -monotonous green, palls upon you when you live -amongst it. We come upon a cool arbour, formed -of green lattices overgrown with creepers and -passion flower, containing an exquisite fernery, -damp and green, with a collection of orchids of the -rarest kinds—indeed, we saw several specimens of -the hardier ones in purple and yellow, growing on -the trees near the wharf. The twilight of this -little open-air conservatory is made darker by the -enormous bananas outside, under whose pale green<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_316" id="Page_316">[316]</a></span> -sword-like leaves, cluster such heavy bunches of -fruit, fifty or sixty on a single stalk.</p> - -<p>Night though closes quickly in, and if we would -see the Annamite suburbs we must give rein to our -impatient little black steeds and bowl swiftly out -into the country, by some fields of brilliant pale -green rice, where the monster grey water buffaloes, -with branching horns laid backwards, strong and -patient, are being driven home from working in -them, by coolies, hidden under bamboo hats the -size of umbrellas. The marshes have been in a -measure drained, but the miasma rises thickly from -the rice fields, near which cluster the wretched -huts of thatched bamboo.</p> - -<p>On we go, now through an avenue entirely composed -of the glossy leaved magnolia or another of -feathery mimosa, broken only by groves of tufted -cocoa palms. Then we reach the military boundary, -and returning homewards another way, pass -the cemetery where many a Frenchman lies low. -Along these shady avenues, deep and cool, we see -the walled compounds and overgrown gardens of -the bungalows of officers and merchants, of whom -about 1700 reside in Saigon. We meet many of -them out for their evening drive, flying along in -Victorias, to gain as much air as possible. There -are many smart-looking officers in white uniforms, -with their wives by their side—pale French ladies, -but in Parisian fashions. Poor things, they appear<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_317" id="Page_317">[317]</a></span> -sickly and enervated, yet robust compared to -the shop-keepers, who look, if they do not say so, -as if it was trouble enough to rise on the entrance -of a customer, without serving them.</p> - -<p>But it should be a great colony. The Governor-General's -palace is magnificent—a Versailles, with -its long flights of steps and spacious balconies. -But his Excellency is always at Hanoi, vainly -endeavouring to get things straight in Tonquin. -The Cathedral, with its dim aisles and stained -glass; the Grecian colonnades of the Palais de -Justice; the post-offices; the theatre, with its bi-weekly -performances; the Officers' Club, where -the punkahs are lyslow waving to and fro in the -balconies,—all betoken the great intentions of its -founders.</p> - -<p>And there are statues of Francis Garnier, the -intrepid and disavowed explorer of the way to -south-western China, and in the centre of the -great boulevard, leading to the Governor's palace, -we distinguish a very large stout man on a great -pedestal, his stomach far protruding. When we -come near, we see whom it represents: Gambetta in -the fur coat worn in the balloon whence he escaped -from Paris during the siege, to instil life into -France, with his outstretched finger pointing in -the direction of Tonquin, as in the memorable -day when he came to the Chamber, and said, -'Messieurs, au Tonkin!' A dying soldier, in the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_318" id="Page_318">[318]</a></span> -act of falling, is on one side, and a sailor, with a -bayonet peeping round as if in search of the enemy, -on the other. The reverse side of this fine monument -bears the legend: " Gambetta, le patriote, -dfenseur de la politique coloniale."</p> - -<p>In the evening some went to the opera, Traviata, -played by the subsidized company, to distract the -garrison. The sight, however, of the house with -its myriad waving fans, was enough for us. We -could not face the heat.</p> - -<p>What an awful night we passed on board! Four -steam winches in charge of seventy shouting -French, with ports shut, tropical heat, and mosquitoes -by the million. It was over at sunrise like a -bad dream. But a sorry sight, the languid heavy-eyed -passengers, with not a face but was severely -wounded, presented next morning; for none had -slept, and all had come off worsted in the conflict -with those venomous brutes. Glad we were of -daylight to go on shore, and set off in a gharry at -seven o'clock to the open arcades where the -curio shops are. The black woodwork inlaid with -mother-of-pearl that comes from Tonquin is very -pretty, but otherwise we only see curiosities -common to other countries. We drive past -gardens, which, as in France, are unrailed and open -to the public, to the market square, with its deep -red-roofed market hall, where a busy scene of -buying and selling is progressing. We notice<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_319" id="Page_319">[319]</a></span> -many French cafs, the familiar little marble-topped -tables, looking strange among the palm trees -of the gardens. There are many French officers, -in solar topees and cotton umbrellas, strolling in -the streets, but though the French element predominates, -there is a wonderful mixture of races—of -Chinese, Annamites with their heads bound in -red cloths, Cinghalese with high tortoiseshell comb, -and Indians in sarong; and the languages are as -varied, for here the Chinese and natives have -learnt French, instead of pigeon English.</p> - -<p>By nine o'clock the sun on the top of the gharry -is overpowering. We are quite overcome by the -heat, and abandoning all idea of going by the steam -tramway to Cholons, the neighbouring emporium -of the Rice of Annam, return on board. But -at eleven o'clock the thermometer in the shade -registered 95 Fahrenheit, and in the sun about -130, and we lay on the deck ready to succumb to -the awful breathless heat, just existing through -the long midday hours of the worst part of the -day.</p> - -<p>The tropical vegetation of Saigon had entranced -us, but its charms faded before the experience of -this equatorial temperature by which alone it can -be produced. We were grateful when at five -o'clock the twenty-four hours' sojourn required by -the Government contract were over, and we left -Cochin China on our homeward voyage.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_320" id="Page_320">[320]</a></span></p> - -<p>It is a long, long journey home to England, this -one of 10,000 miles from Shanghai to London—lasting -for five weeks.</p> - -<p>Day after day goes by with the same routine, -until we feel that we are automatons. Passengers -come and go at the various ports, but "we go on -for ever." Night and day there is heard the -ceaseless throbbing of the engines, like the beating -heart of some great monster. It lulls you to sleep, -keeps you company in the silence of the night, and -greets you in the morning, and when we are in -port, we unconsciously feel that something is wanting. -It is a cheering noise, for every revolution of -the screw brings us nearer home; 4368 times does -it revolve in one hour, and it takes 3,600,000 revolutions -to bring us to Marseilles. We consume 52 -tons of coal a day, or 1800 tons for the whole -voyage, whilst 8000 kilos of oil are used for the -machinery.</p> - -<p>The ship is like a floating city with a cosmopolitan -population, for we have over twenty different -nationalities on board: French, English, -German, Spanish, Italian, Japanese, Russian, -Chinese, Dutch, Austrians, Arabians, Indians, etc., -and yet all goes smoothly, save for the passing -incident of a passionate Frenchman, who came -to ask the captain's permission to fight a duel with -an officer from Tonquin, for usurping his place at -table.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_321" id="Page_321">[321]</a></span></p> - -<p>It is a monotonous thirty-six days of life at -sea, alternating with frantic rushes to land, when -in port, and sometimes sleeping on shore, where, -like at Singapore and Colombo, the ship is hermetically -sealed for coaling. Then there is dire -confusion on board, everyone loses his head, the -stewards are beside themselves, and the organization -becomes sadly out of gear. We are thankful -to put out to sea once more, into the breeze and -calm, to sail away into that great trackless space -so well defined "as a circle whose centre is everywhere, -and whose circumference nowhere."</p> - -<p>We touch at Singapore, and spend the night at -Government House, noting the growth of the -town, and the great improvements since we were -there six years ago. Through the Straits of -Malacca, past Acheen Head, the extreme westerly -point of Sumatra to Colombo—Colombo with its -beautiful sea-shore, where amidst palm groves, the -blue breakers of the Indian Ocean are ever rolling -in, and casting their surf and foam on the golden -sands. Through its tropical avenues we drive, past -the barracks, where the pipe of the bagpipes is -heard, wailing in their far exile, and the handsome -Cingalese merchants, with their checked sarongs -and tortoiseshell combs, tempt us with precious -stones. Mount Adam, with his pillar-like peak, -in the centre of Ceylon, does us honour by showing -himself (a rare occurrence) as we put out once<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_322" id="Page_322">[322]</a></span> -more to sea, through the magnificent breakwater -of Colombo.</p> - -<p>Six days' steaming, and we cast anchor under -rocky Aden, whose peaks so barren and sterile, -are yet picturesquely deformed, and glowing with -warm tints of cobalt and carmine. Then we enter -the Red Sea, through the Straits of Babelmandeb, -by England's key to the Eastern hemisphere, the -Island of Perim, and pass fragrant Mocha on the -sandy shore.</p> - -<p>One hundred hours through this inland sea, and -we are at Suez waiting our turn to enter that great -highway of nations, that sandy ditch cut through -the desert, that connects the eastern with the -western globe. In the daytime we have that -strange fascination linked to the boundless plain -of sand—the mirage flickering on the horizon, -the clear pale blue and pink shades that steal -over the desert at sundown, with the golden glory -of the sunset sinking slowly into the waters -of the Bitter Lake, whilst at night the banks of the -canal are illuminated by the broad shafts of light, -that sweep from the electric lamp in the bows of -every ship.</p> - -<p>We spend a dreary Sunday at Port Said, amid -its dirty streets, rubbishy oriental shops, thievish -donkey-boys, and a population which gathers in -the scum of the earth.</p> - -<p>The Harbour of Alexandria is entered at sunrise<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_323" id="Page_323">[323]</a></span> -next day, and we look in the dull chill of early -morning on its quays and forts, its mosqued domes -and windmills, but ere the day is really begun we -are on our way joyfully cleaving the waters of the -Mediterranean, near, so near home now. The -chill winds and the grey atmosphere would make -us know we are in Europe once more. The hard -even-coloured skies of the East, burning with -brazen sun, have been left on the other side of the -Canal, and now the skies are full of grey and purple -clouds, silver-edged, soft and rounded. The -Southern Cross has sunk below the horizon, the -brilliant starlight nights, with the purple vault of -heaven gemmed with diamond stars, have faded -into the past.</p> - -<p>Now the snow-clad mountains of Candia or -Crete rise up from the ocean above low-lying -clouds. Then, the danger of avoiding Charybdis -to be wrecked on Scylla safely passed, we thread -the green Straits of Messina between the toe of -Italy and the Island of Sicily. The smoking cone -of Etna is invisible, but the little island volcano of -Stromboli shoots forth its black column of lava.</p> - -<p>The beacon lighthouses of the Straits of Bonifacio -mark out our course between the islands of -Sardinia and Corsica. And by the next afternoon -the vine-terraced mountains and sunny shores of -the Corniche are near at hand, with the white -villas of Toulon shining in the sunlight.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_324" id="Page_324">[324]</a></span></p> - -<p>The last day on board, the last packing, the last -dinner, the last evening. What a pleasant bustle -of departure, what a feeling of <i xml:lang="fr" lang="fr">bonne camaraderie</i> -prevails! With the contagious sympathy of joy, -passengers speak to each other who have held -aloof for the whole month's voyage. We are all -restless and excited, and only able to discuss the -hour of arrival—no, not the hour, it is the half-hours -and quarters that we dispute and wager about.</p> - -<p>The sun goes down. The great white cliffs—for -they are very near to us now—loom up ghostly in -the dim twilight; these are bathed in pink reflections -from the rosy sky. We see the little chapel -perched on high, where the sailors implore the -protection of the sainted Mary ere commencing a -voyage—the gloomy dungeon fortress of Chteau -d'If on its island, and with the last gleams of daylight -we sight the green Prado, the cathedral -towers of Notre Dame, and the large seaport of -Marseilles.</p> - -<p>For two days we linger in the sunny south, under -blue skies and warm sunshine, amid the palms, -cacti, and hedges of roses.</p> - -<p>We reach Paris in time to see the gorgeous -obsequies at the Madeleine of Dom Pedro, the ex-Emperor -of Brazil. Then ends our second journey -round the world with a fearful gale in the English -Channel, reaching Charing Cross in the raw cold -and fog of a December night.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_325" id="Page_325">[325]</a></span></p> - - - - -<h2><a name="APPENDIX" id="APPENDIX"></a>APPENDIX.</h2> - -<p class="p1b">BY</p> - -<p class="p4a">C. E. HOWARD VINCENT, C.B., M.P.</p> - - - -<hr class="tb" /> -<h3><a name="BRITISH_AND_AMERICAN_TRADE" id="BRITISH_AND_AMERICAN_TRADE"></a>BRITISH AND AMERICAN TRADE IN -CANADA.</h3> - -<p class="p4a">MEMORANDUM</p> - -<blockquote> - -<p><em>Addressed to the Chamber of Commerce and Manufacture of -Sheffield upon British and American Trade in the -Dominion of Canada and the McKinley Tariff in the -United States.</em></p></blockquote> - -<p class="p1"><em>September, 1891.</em></p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Internal Trade.</span></p> - -<p>1.—It is necessary in the first place to state that the internal -trade of Canada has made vast progress during the -past decade. Not only is this evident from the numerous -factories at the principal centres, but it is corroborated by -the rapid extension and development of Toronto, Hamilton, -Winnipeg and other towns. Manufacture has taken such -rapid strides that not only is a very large proportion of the -articles in daily use of home make, but the whole of the iron -bridges and much of the plant upon the gigantic railway -system, and the greater part of the agricultural machinery -are of Canadian construction, but there is a surplusage for -export of certain manufactured goods, amounting in the -fiscal year ending June, 1890, to 5¾ million dollars—upwards -of two-fifths of which were purchased by the British -flag.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_326" id="Page_326">[326]</a></span></p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Increase of External Trade.</span></p> - -<p>2.—The external trade (imports and exports) has also -increased from 153 million dollars in 1879, when the -"National Policy" was inaugurated by the late Right -Honourable Sir John Macdonald, to 218 million dollars in -the last statistical year.</p> - - -<p><span class="smcap">Imports from the United Kingdom and the -Empire.</span></p> - -<p>3.—The imports from the United Kingdom of British and -Irish produce have increased from 5,040,524<i>l.</i> in 1879, to -7,702,798<i>l.</i> in 1889.</p> - -<p>In the twelve months, July 1st, 1889, to June 30th, 1890, -the purchases by Canada from the British Empire amounted -to 45¾ million dollars, or only 6½ million dollars less than -from the United States with their 60,000,000 of people and -conterminous frontier of over 3000 miles, running especially -close to the more settled and affluent portions of the -Dominion.</p> - -<p>This is the more satisfactory when it is considered that -less than one-fourth of the British imports were admitted -free of a duty averaging 25 per cent. ad valorem, while two-fifths -of the American imports were from their nature untaxed.</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Competition Between British and American -Flags.</span></p> - -<p>4.—The Union Jack upon the one hand, and the Stars -and Stripes upon the other, are practically the only two competitors -for the custom of Canada, and they absorb between -them 98 million dollars worth of the import trade out of a -total of 112 million dollars.</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Superiority of England.</span></p> - -<p>5.—In most of the great lines of manufactured goods, -such as in the manufactures of iron and steel: of cutlery; -of cotton and silk; of wool and linen; of lead, paper and -fur; of hemp, twine and earthenware, as also in hats, gloves, -combs, umbrellas, embroideries, ribbons, crapes, oilcloth, -iron furniture, fancy articles, and in bottled ale, beer and -porter, England more than holds her own against the -American Republic.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_327" id="Page_327">[327]</a></span></p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Foreign Intermixture.</span></p> - -<p>6.—At the same time it is right to observe that a considerable -and increasing proportion of the imports officially -attributed to British production were in reality of German, -French, or other foreign origin, and this to an amount exceeding -last year six million dollars.</p> - -<p>They were obtained, however, through English distributing -houses instead of direct, partly by reason of transit -facilities, but mostly on account of the long credit readily -accorded.</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Lead of the United States.</span></p> - -<p>7.—The United States on the other hand take the lead with -manufactures of brass and copper; of gutta-percha and -India-rubber; of slate, stone, and wood; of cork and glass; -of leather and tin ware, as also in edge tools, Britannia metal, -bells, brushes, buttons, carriages, clocks and watches, -jewellery, musical and surgical instruments, and in agricultural -implements.</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Sheffield Trade in Canada.</span></p> - -<p>8.—In the staple trades of Sheffield, with the exception of -edge-tools, the ascendency of England is fairly well maintained.</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Cutlery.</span></p> - -<p>9.—Especially is this the case with regard to cutlery. -Out of 311,897 dollars (say 62,500<i>l.</i>) worth of table knives, -jack knives, pocket knives, and other cutlery imported into -the Dominion during the past year, about two-thirds came -from the United Kingdom.</p> - -<p>Of the remainder the United States supplied 27,900 -dollars worth, and Germany 43,500 dollars worth.</p> - -<p>Not a few importers of Sheffield cutlery speak anxiously, -however, of the growing competition of Newark (New -Jersey) and of Germany—especially in the production of -attractively got up and elegantly carded knives at low -prices.</p> - -<p>In Canada itself only one attempt has, I believe, been -made to establish a cutlery factory, and this recently at -Halifax by a young Sheffield man, assisted by six or eight -Sheffield trained artisans. They speak hopefully of their -prospects and are meeting with much local encouragement.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_328" id="Page_328">[328]</a></span></p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Plated Cutlery.</span></p> - -<p>It is right to add that although throughout the Dominion -the table cutlery bears the names of the leading Sheffield -houses, the more easily cleaned plated cutlery is coming -into some use. During the past year 919 dozen were imported, -to which the United States contributed 774 dozen -and Great Britain only 140.</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Files.</span></p> - -<p>10.—In files and rasps the import from England amounted -to 34,358 dollars (say 6800<i>l.</i>), and from the United States -to 45,724 dollars.</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Saws.</span></p> - -<p>11.—In saws the United States made even greater headway -with a total consignment amounting to 14,000<i>l.</i>, while -Great Britain sent scarcely 600<i>l.</i> worth.</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Edge Tools.</span></p> - -<p>12.—A like disproportion occurs with regard to edge tools, -of which the United States supplied 15,000 dollars worth -out of a total external purchase by the Dominion of 18,279 -dollars.</p> - -<p>This has been explained by the untiring efforts constantly -made by American manufacturers and their employs to -make all tools more and more adapted for the purpose in -view, lighter and more facile to the hand, without the -slightest regard to former use, old ideas or customs.</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Axes.</span></p> - -<p>13.—It is frequently alleged that Sheffield lost the Canadian -axe trade by adherence to the opinion that it was a better -judge of the shape of the handle or the chopper than the -backwoodsmen whose livelihood depended upon the skilful -use of the axe.</p> - -<p>This must, however, be legendary, for I am told we never -had the Dominion axe trade.</p> - -<p>In any case, at the present time nearly all the axes used -in the vast lumber industry are of Canadian make, and out -of a total import of 6751 dollars worth last year, the whole -came from the United States, with the exception of a single -axe contributed by France.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_329" id="Page_329">[329]</a></span></p> - - -<p><span class="smcap">Spades and Shovels.</span></p> - -<p class="p5a">14.—Of spades and shovels 4000 dollars worth were imported -from Great Britain against 6259 dollars worth from -the United States.</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Scythes.</span></p> - -<p>In scythes the two countries each supplied one half of a -total import of 6731 dollars worth.</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Agricultural Implements.</span></p> - -<p>15.—But in other agricultural implements—ploughs, -drills, harrows, forks, rakes, mowing machines, harvesters, -etc., America supplied no less than 117,000 dollars worth, -against only 4000 dollars worth, from Great Britain.</p> - -<p>The explanation given is similar to that I have often -heard in Australasia, that the high-priced, solid made, somewhat -heavy and durable machines and implements which -find favour in England, are unsuitable for Colonists with -small capital, who want a cheap, handy and light -implement which can be replaced as soon as a year or -two brings easier means, and sees improvements perfected.</p> - -<p>It is indeed stated in proof of the adoption of like ideas -in the mother country that more Ontario-made self-binding -reapers have been sold this year in Great Britain than any -of English manufacture.</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Bar Iron, Pigs, Rails, etc.</span></p> - -<p>16.—It is, however, in bar iron; in boiler or other plate -iron; in hoop, band, or scroll iron; in iron, in slabs, blooms, -etc.; in iron pigs; in railway bars, rails and fish plates; in -rolled iron or steel angles, beams, girders, etc.; in sheet -iron, and in wrought iron or steel tubing that the United -Kingdom asserts the greatest predominance with an importation -last year into Canada amounting to 2,356,523 dollars -against 642,129 dollars worth from the United States—that -is, nearly fourfold.</p> - -<p>At Londonderry in Nova Scotia important rolling mills -have been established, and at Toronto and elsewhere in -Ontario there are prosperous foundries.</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Machinery.</span></p> - -<p>17.—England though falls back again seriously in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_330" id="Page_330">[330]</a></span> -machinery, composed wholly or in part of iron, in locomotive, -fire, or other engines, and in cast iron vessels, plates, -etc., as also in builders', cabinet makers', carriage and -harness makers' hardware, and in house furnishing hardware.</p> - -<p>In these lines Great Britain supplied Canada with only -about 100,000<i>l.</i> worth, compared to 500,000<i>l.</i> from the -United States.</p> - -<p>In connection with machinery it may not be amiss to -mention the almost invariable practice, throughout the -American continent, for all machinery under the control -either of the State or public bodies being kept spotlessly -clean and as attractive as possible, and, in the case of all -stationary engines, allowing the public to see them in operation, -from a gallery or other suitable place, so that humble -mechanical genius may feast its eyes, and think out problems -or improvements, which may advance their authors to wealth, -and place further names upon the roll of the world's -inventors.</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Electro-Plate and Britannia Metal.</span></p> - -<p>18.—In electro-plated ware and gilt ware of all kinds the -import from Great Britain amounted last year to 51,041 -dollars, and to 98,669 dollars from the United States, while -in manufactures of Britannia metal (not plated) the importation -from America amounted to 40,000 dollars, or eight -times that from Great Britain.</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Predominance of British Manufactures of Cotton -and Wool.</span></p> - -<p>19.—It is not necessary to examine in like detail the -relative trade in the Dominion of Great Britain and the -United States in the manufactures which are not located in -Sheffield. But it may be mentioned that the purchases by -Canada of British cotton goods exceeded three million -dollars last year against one-fifth that amount from the -United States, in velveteens exceeded 82,000 dollars from -Britain against only 356 dollars from America: while the -sale to Canadians of British manufactures of wool were over -ten million dollars, or too times that of the States.</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">The Empire, Canada's best Customer.</span></p> - -<p>20.—While, as has been shown, Canada bought last year<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_331" id="Page_331">[331]</a></span> -of Great Britain and Ireland, and British possessions, to an -amount exceeding forty-five millions of dollars, the Empire -was in return the best customer of the Dominion, purchasing -no less than 44,479,992 dollars worth of Canadian products, -or 11,156,785 dollars worth more than the United -States, and admitting nearly the whole free of all duty.</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Preferential Trade within the Empire.</span></p> - -<p>21.—It is hardly to be expected that Canada, with her -scanty and hard-working population could, with the example -of every nation or colony (save one) before her, attempt to -raise by direct taxation the twenty-four million dollars of -public revenue she now derives from customs duties.</p> - -<p>But there can be little doubt that if a preference was obtained -for British over foreign goods in the tariff, it would -give just that pecuniary advantage calculated to stimulate -the undoubted partiality of most British colonists for British -made goods, if they themselves are unable to produce them -in adequate quantity.</p> - -<p>Such preferential trade, large public meetings I have -recently addressed in all the principal commercial centres, -on behalf of the United Empire Trade League, have declared -with practical unanimity and much support from both -political parties, that Canada is willing to exchange with -the mother country and the Empire, so soon as foreign treaty -hindrances (treaties with Belgium and Germany of 1862 and -1865) are removed—it being calculated that no policy would -more certainly advance the prosperity, peopling and capitalization -of the whole country and the consequent augmentation -of customers.</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Means of Commercial Negotiation.</span></p> - -<p>22.—No more effective means either could probably be -found to bring about that reduction of the United States -tariff wall, so much desired both by the Dominion of Canada -and the mother country, for it would furnish her Majesty's -representatives with a weapon of commercial persuasion -they now wholly lack in negotiating with foreign countries.</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Effect of the McKinley Tariff.</span></p> - -<p>23.—It may be too early perhaps to judge definitely as to -the effect of the McKinley tariff upon British trade in the -United States, There can, however, be no doubt that in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_332" id="Page_332">[332]</a></span> -many industries, and especially among the receivers of wages -in the United Kingdom, it will be very serious, and tend still -further to extend the disproportion between the sales of -America to Great Britain and the purchases by America of -British goods, which have stood for some time in the adverse -ratio of three to one.</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Much Change not to be expected.</span></p> - -<p>24.—It is necessary, therefore, to say that while the organs -of the democratic party in the United States and the sanguine -views of American importers who are in personal or correspondence -relations with England, encourage a hope that -the McKinley tariff will be repealed or considerably modified -in the near future, I am convinced that, as matters stand, -such belief is to a great extent delusive.</p> - -<p>In the first place the democratic majority in the House of -Representatives, as at present constituted, is practically -powerless in the face of a strong and hostile Senate, with -an equal mandate from the people, and in the face too of -an antagonistic President, to a great extent independent -of either, with all his Ministers and machinery of government.</p> - -<p>In the second place democratic leaders and advocates in -every locality are eager to protest that they do not now -desire free trade, do not dream of admitting duty free the -productions of competing foreign workmen, and that they -aim only at a reduction of the tariff.</p> - -<p>Again, it is now well understood that the alleged rise in -prices at the time of the election last year for Congress was -artificial and impressed upon voters by skilful wire-pulling—such -as the hiring of itinerant pedlars to perambulate the -agricultural districts with household wares marked up at -double cost; by urging democratic retail dealers to serve -their party (and their tills) by demanding greatly increased -sums for all goods during the campaign "in consequence of -the new tariff."</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Industrial Prosperity in the United States.</span></p> - -<p>25.—There appears to be little doubt that the Federal -Commission now sitting will find that, although in some districts -there may have been speculating failures, employment -was never upon the whole more plentiful or better remunerated -than at the present time. As in Canada so in the -United States, it is work which is everywhere seeking hands<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_333" id="Page_333">[333]</a></span>—and -not, as with us, men searching, too often vainly, for -employment.</p> - -<p>On both sides of the border between Canada and the -United States the necessaries of life—wheat, flour, bread, -meat, are extraordinarily cheap and excellent, while artisan -clothing, so often reputed dear and pressing upon the family -purse, is readily obtainable, so old Sheffield men have -assured me, in very fair quality at from 8 dollars 50 cents. -to 12 or 14 dollars per suit, that is 1<i>l.</i> 14<i>s.</i> to 2<i>l.</i> 16<i>s.</i> Indeed, -before me is the advertisement of a New York house offering -"Jersey Cloth (silk finish, new), blue, black or brown, per -suit 14 dollars, quality XXX."</p> - -<p>Beyond question the whole standard of industrial life is -higher than in Europe—higher too, I am sorry to have to -admit, than in Great Britain. Neither poverty nor distress -are visible, while drunkenness, so far as it may exist, is kept -carefully out of sight.</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">American Reciprocity Treaties.</span></p> - -<p>26.—It will be probably less, however, on the industrial -prosperity of American workers, on the success of the high -tariff in compelling competitors for the custom of the -American people, to employ their capital within the United -States, to pay wages to Americans, and use American -materials, that the Republican party will appeal next year -for a new Presidential lease of power (with what chance of -success I do not pretend to prophecy), than upon the -unexpected triumph that has attended Section III., or the -Reciprocity clause of the McKinley Tariff Act in the hands -of Mr. Secretary Blaine.</p> - -<p>Already under its provisions free entry for American productions -and manufactures has been secured into Brazil—a -market taking in 1889 6,232,316<i>l.</i> worth of British goods—in -exchange for the free entry of the raw materials and other -commodities of that Republic so rich in natural wealth.</p> - -<p>The same result has been achieved, and will shortly come -into force with regard to Spanish possessions, taking together -8,000,000<i>l.</i> worth of British products every year.</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">To break up British Trade.</span></p> - -<p>27.—This latter treaty is viewed with especial concern in -Canada, and the notice of terminating the Anglo-Spanish -treaty of commerce which has been given, gives rise to a fear<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_334" id="Page_334">[334]</a></span> -that the Americans will secure the trade with the Spanish -Indies heretofore enjoyed by the Dominion.</p> - -<p>Both treaties will also very injuriously affect the interests -of the fishermen of Newfoundland, who among the Catholic -population of Brazil and the territories of Spain seek the -principal market for that dried fish, the sale of which, until -improved fish trade and other mercantile relations are -established with England, as they might easily be, constitutes -their principal means of existence.</p> - -<p>A like treaty has been concluded with San Domingo, and -others are in active negotiation.</p> - -<p>The vaunted object is "the breaking up piece-meal of -British foreign trade," and whether or no it obtains that aim, -the untoward influence these treaties, placing American trade -upon a preferential basis, are calculated to exert in that -direction, is not, I fear, a circumstance well calculated to -induce the masses of the American people, in their present -frame of mind, very speedily to destroy the instrument.</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Effect of British Inaction.</span></p> - -<p>28.—It is a paramount duty to direct the attention of the -Sheffield Chamber of Manufacture, as a body representative -of the commercial and industrial community of Great Britain -and Ireland, to this practical aspect of the present situation, -lest buoyed up by a vain hope that the markets of the United -States will be thrown open, England allows all opportunity -to pass of following the example of America and Central -Europe in establishing preferential trading relations on -mutually advantageous terms. A commercial union richer -in its prospects than any attainable by whatever phalanx of -foreign nations, lies now, but not for much longer, ready to -her hand—that of the British Empire, of a fifth of the entire -world, peopled or fostered by her own people, capitalized by -her own capital.</p> - -<p>Inaction much longer maintained on the part of the mother -country will be ascribed by the energetic minds of Greater -Britain to callous indifference to Imperial responsibilities, -and can have no other effect than to expose Canada, Newfoundland, -the West Indies, British Guiana and British -Honduras, aggregating not much short of half the area of -the Empire, and not impossibly other Colonies, to the -temptation of entering instead into commercial alliance with -the United States, involving discrimination in favour of -foreigners against the British flag, which even the loyalty of -the most loyal Colonial subjects of her Majesty the Queen<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_335" id="Page_335">[335]</a></span> -may not, with due regard to their material interests, be able -to resist.</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">American Pioneers of Commerce.</span></p> - -<p>29.—But in any event I must note the amazing energy and -push shown by American business houses. On every journey -in nearly every quarter of the globe you meet their representatives, -who lose no opportunity of skilfully advancing -American trade; and while Germany, backed by a vigilant -Government, is following closely in the same direction with -astonishing results, the reports of her Majesty's Consular -officers agree in declaring that the appearance of an English -commercial traveller becomes more and more rare.</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Boards of Trade.</span></p> - -<p>30.—American Boards of Trade, corresponding to our -Chambers of Commerce, are also very active organizations, -sparing neither expense nor trouble.</p> - -<p>They occupy a like position in Canada, and in Toronto -the Board of Trade—an enthusiastic meeting whereof I had -the honour of addressing—has erected a palatial building, -where business men meet daily for the mutual exchange of -information and views. The turn of the market is recorded -from hour to hour from the centres of commerce, and among -the members there exists an admirable system of mutual life -insurance.</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Canada as a Field for British Capital and -Immigration.</span></p> - -<p>31.—In conclusion, it is hardly possible to speak of Canada -in exaggerated terms as a source from which Great Britain -may most readily obtain the larger portion of the supply of -corn, meat, and dairy produce, her increased population and -diminished agriculture oblige her to purchase from over the -sea.</p> - -<p>The extremely fertile and virgin soil of the vast region -occupied by Manitoba, the North-West Territories, and -British Columbia—half the size of Europe, and lying between -Lake Superior and the Pacific Ocean—has now been -provided by British Canadian enterprise with a complete -network of railways, bringing it, so soon as Atlantic communication -by Nova Scotia and Newfoundland has been -improved, to within fourteen days' steam of Liverpool.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_336" id="Page_336">[336]</a></span></p> - -<p>Capital and immigration are alone needed for their -development.</p> - -<p>A better field for the former could not be found if British -Commercial Union made the market secure of foreign -caprice, while for steady industry under the old flag, under -like institutions, under the same law, no wider scope exists -in the universe.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_337" id="Page_337">[337]</a></span></p> - - - - -<h3><a name="BRITISH_TRADE_WITH_JAPAN" id="BRITISH_TRADE_WITH_JAPAN"></a>BRITISH TRADE WITH JAPAN.</h3> - -<p class="p4a">MEMORANDUM</p> - -<p class="p5a">ADDRESSED TO THE CUTLERS' COMPANY OF HALLAMSHIRE, -UPON</p> - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">British Trade with Japan.</span></p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Progress of Japan.</span></p> - -<p>1.—Little idea can be formed of the progress and development -of Japan without a personal visit. That the Japanese -Empire should have been brought in less than a quarter of a -century from barbaric darkness and isolation to a leading -place in the civilized world, is not the least remarkable event -of the present generation. The fact that this great revolution -has been accomplished without the pressure of external war, -and practically without internal riot or bloodshed, renders it -the more extraordinary.</p> - -<p>Some may affect to prefer the old order of things, may think -that the transition has been dangerously rapid, may sneer at -the wonderful adaptive faculty displayed. This is, however, -certain, that in good order and sobriety, in cleanliness and -politeness, in industry and contentment, the Japanese are -already in the van of nations.</p> - -<p>The police, postal, telegraphic, and educational systems -are tributes to their capacity, while over 1400 miles of railway -are being efficiently worked by native employs.</p> - -<p>Care and caution will be undoubtedly very necessary for -many years to come. But if reliance upon indigenous talent, -and the new law that Japanese industrial undertakings must -be represented by Japanese, are not carried to an extravagant -point, the next decade or two may see the vast reforms -not only matured, but carried onwards to a summit undreamt -of, when, in 1868, the country was released from the chains<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_338" id="Page_338">[338]</a></span> -of ages; or even when a score of years later his present -Imperial Majesty, the 121st Mikado and Emperor of his race, -voluntarily gave the nation one of the clearest constitutions -in existence "in consideration of the progressive tendency of -the course of human affairs and in parallel with the advance -of civilization."</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Concurrent Growth of British Interests.</span></p> - -<p>2.—There is nothing more striking in this transformation -than the constant growth of British interests in the Empire, -with which it has been attended.</p> - -<blockquote> - -<p><span class="smcap">Illustrated by large numbers of British Residents -and Mercantile Firms and proportion of Trade -and Shipping.</span></p></blockquote> - -<p>This is clearly illustrated by the following notable -facts:—</p> - -<p>(<i>a</i>) That British residents, numbering 1500 souls, of which -two-thirds are males, equal numerically the representatives -in Japan of the whole of the rest of the world, excluding the -adjacent Chinese.</p> - -<p>(<i>b</i>) That a like state of affairs exists with regard not only -to the number of foreign mercantile firms, located in Japan, -but also in the proportion borne by the British flag of the -external trade.</p> - -<p>(<i>c</i>) That since 1868, the first year of the new Japanese -era, British shipping in the waters of Japan has, according -to the calculation of her Majesty's Consul at Kob, increased -threefold in number and fifteenfold in tonnage. It carried -last year two-thirds of the (extra Chinese) foreign trade, and -71 per cent. of the whole, in over 1000 ships inwards and outwards, -giving employment to more than 25,000 persons, and -this notwithstanding the harassing exclusion of foreign -vessels from any share in the large coasting trade between -other than the six open ports.</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Volume of Japanese External Trade.</span></p> - -<p>3.—The external trade (imports and exports) of Japan has -more than doubled in the past ten years. It amounted in -1890 to 138¼ millions of silver yen or dollars<a name="FNanchor_2_2" id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> (say 21,000,000<i>l.</i> -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_339" id="Page_339">[339]</a></span>sterling) against 62¼ million yens in 1881. The exports, of -which the British Empire took nearly a third, amounted to -54¾ million dollars; the imports to 81¾ millions.</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">The Foreign Element as a Source of Wealth to -Japan.</span></p> - -<p>4.—The financial value to the Empire of the foreign commercial -houses is shown by the passage, through their -agency, of 110 million dollars worth of the total external -trade.</p> - -<p>There is in addition the expenditure of many thousands of -foreign visitors to the natural beauties of the country—of -which 70 per cent. are calculated by Mr. Gubbins, secretary -for Japanese to Her Majesty's Legation, to be British,—a -sum estimated at an extreme minimum of three million -dollars a year, or about 500,000<i>l.</i></p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">The Passport System and Disability of Foreigners.</span></p> - -<p>There is hope that these important considerations may -lead ere long to a modification of the stringent passport regulations, -and of the disability attaching to the alien tenure of -real estate, hindering as it must do the permanent investment -of capital.</p> - - -<p><span class="smcap">Proportion of External Trade with several -Foreign Countries.</span></p> - -<p>5.—Foreign countries shared or divided in 1890 the external -trade of Japan in the following proportions:—</p> - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="Foreign countries shared or divided"> -<tbody> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">(<i>a</i>) Great Britain,</td> - <td class="tdl">320</td> - <td class="tdl">million</td> - <td class="tdl">dollars.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">(<i>b</i>) British Colonial Empire,</td> - <td class="tdl">270</td> - <td class="tdc">"</td> - <td class="tdc">"</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdr" colspan="2">Total British Flag,</td> - <td class="tdc" colspan="2">59,000,000. dols.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">(<i>c</i>) United States,</td> - <td class="tdl">260</td> - <td class="tdl">million</td> - <td class="tdl">dollars.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">(<i>d</i>) China,</td> - <td class="tdl">148</td> - <td class="tdc">"</td> - <td class="tdc">"</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">(<i>e</i>) France,</td> - <td class="tdl">140</td> - <td class="tdc">"</td> - <td class="tdc">"</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">(<i>f</i>) German,</td> - <td class="tdl">90</td> - <td class="tdc">"</td> - <td class="tdc">"</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">(<i>g</i>) Corea (adjacent),</td> - <td class="tdl">56</td> - <td class="tdc">"</td> - <td class="tdc">"</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">(<i>h</i>) Belgium,</td> - <td class="tdl">10</td> - <td class="tdc">"</td> - <td class="tdc">"</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">All other countries less than <br /> one million dollars each,<br /> and aggregating,</td> - <td class="tdl" valign="top">94</td> - <td class="tdc" valign="top">"</td> - <td class="tdc" valign="top">"</td> -</tr> -</tbody> -</table></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_340" id="Page_340">[340]</a></span></p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Purchases by Japan of British Goods.</span></p> - -<p>6.—The purchases by Japan from the British Empire exceeded -41 million dollars (say 6,750,000<i>l.</i>), of which 26½ -millions worth were obtained from the United Kingdom.</p> - -<p>Unfortunately, however, a not inconsiderable proportion of -the imports credited to Great Britain, are stated to have -been of German, Belgian, or other foreign make, and although -obtained through English houses, the advantage to -the artisan community at home was thereby materially -reduced.</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">False Marking.</span></p> - -<p>The observations on this head of Consul Longford, in his -report for 1886, are still deserving of attention:—</p> - -<p>"While fully recognizing that it is only reasonable and -right that English merchants in Japan should go to those -producing centres which show the greatest readiness to meet -and satisfy their demands, it is at the same time unfortunate -that they should import the goods which they obtained from -Germany with English marks and chops on them, even -though the latter are only intended to acquaint native dealers -with the name of the firm supplying them and not in any -sense to designate the country of origin or production... -for means are thus placed in the hands of the Japanese -middlemen or the ultimate retailer, which may aid him considerably -in selling (inferior goods) as English."</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Merchandise Marks Acts.</span></p> - -<p>The enactment in the United Kingdom of the Merchandise -Marks Act of 1887, so largely due to the Cutlers' Company, -has no doubt modified this evil at its base. It has not, however, -stamped it out, partly because foreign goods can still -be imported into England, plain and devoid of any indication -of origin, and the detection of subsequent false marking -by the few dishonest, prior to home sale or foreign exportation, -is practically impossible; and partly because few -foreign nations have adopted a corresponding law, or if they -have, it is rarely enforced.</p> - -<p>The Japanese Trade Mark Regulations of October, 1884, -do not touch the question, and moreover have been judicially -held, so Mr. Consul Hall informs me, not to apply to -foreigners or foreign goods.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_341" id="Page_341">[341]</a></span></p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Purchases by Japan of Sheffield Goods.</span></p> - -<p>7.—The purchases by Japan from Great Britain of those -productions of iron, steel, and hardware, in which Sheffield -is mainly interested, compare favourably with those from -other foreign nations.</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Iron Pig, Bars, Rods, Rails, etc.</span></p> - -<p>8.—In pig iron, iron bars, rods, plates, sheets, and rails, -Japan bought last year from England 1,424,000 dollars worth -(say 235,000<i>l</i>.) against one-fourth that amount from Germany, -and only 20,000 dollars worth from France. Even this large -figure shows some shrinkage on the British import in -1888-89, while the German, although so far behind, has increased.</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Pipes and Tubes.</span></p> - -<p>9.—In iron pipes and tubes Great Britain supplied Japan -in 1890 with 159,000 <em>yen</em> worth, out of a total purchase of -166,000 dollars—an increase of 98,000 dollars worth in two -years.</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Nails.</span></p> - -<p>10.—In nails, however, Great Britain has fallen behind -and given place to Germany. Indeed, her Majesty's Consul -at Yokohama says in his report for last year:—</p> - -<p>"The consumption of wire nails is steadily increasing. -The demand for nail rod is now almost extinct—manufactured -nails being taken instead. These nails are now -mostly of German, and a few of Belgian origin."</p> - -<p>This is corroborated by the purchase from England of -nails having fallen from 342,000 dollars worth in 1888 to -134,000 dollars worth in 1890.</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Screws.</span></p> - -<p>This is the more remarkable as in iron screws, Great -Britain holds the market with a supply of 70,000 dollars -worth in 1890, against only 2000 dollars worth by Germany, -and a like amount by France.</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Steel.</span></p> - -<p>11.—In steel 162,000 dollars worth was obtained from -England out of a gross importation amounting to 194,000,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_342" id="Page_342">[342]</a></span> -France supplying 23,300 dollars worth, and Germany, subject -to the observations in paragraph 6, only 3900 dollars.</p> - -<p>Mr. Consul Troup has observed "that the steel imported -by the Government for the making of barrels at the small-arms -factory at Tokio, and for the Osaka arsenal is mostly -French, German, or Italian, and at the Yokosuka dockyard -there is a certain preference for Creuzot steel."</p> - -<p>With the approval of the Minister for Foreign Affairs, -whose great courtesy I take leave to acknowledge, and by -permission of the Minister of War, I visited the Osaka -arsenal to ascertain the cause.</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Osaka Arsenal.</span></p> - -<p>12.—It is an admirably organized institution with canal -service direct to the sea, provided with the best English, -German, French, Italian, and Austrian machinery, employing -1400 hands at an average wage of ten pence for a ten -hours' day, and turning out 24-ton guns, besides all other -material for a standing army, 80,000 strong, formed on the -French model with German improvements, and reserves -240,000 in number, but deficient in officers.</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Advantage of the Metric Scale.</span></p> - -<p>The Director, Lieutenant-Colonel T. Ota of the Imperial -Artillery and European trained, was so good as to give me -for the Cutlers' Company, on hearing that it included the -members of the great iron and steel firms, a complete set of -photographs, illustrating the workshops, the guns, and the -target experiments. He expressed himself as fully sensible -of the excellence of the metal manufactures of Sheffield, and -their superiority, both in cost, quality, and workmanship, for -original productions. Upon the other hand, though, he -frankly said that there was so much risk of error in the -measurement by "feet" and by "inches," that it saved much -anxiety and trouble, when specific and exact size was required -to order from Creuzot, or from Krupp, in the metric scale, -adopted by Japan of "mtres and millimtres." One well-known -English firm has in consequence, I understand, -determined to follow the German example, and to render -specifications to foreign governments or individuals in their -own lineal and currency calculations.</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Partiality of Students for Country Of -Education.</span></p> - -<p>13.—In this connection the Consul at Yokohama calls<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_343" id="Page_343">[343]</a></span> -attention to another important matter. He says "the -Government official prefers the material of the country where -he has received his training."</p> - -<p>The Japanese authorities have in the last fifteen years -sent large numbers of students to Europe. Many have given -since their return solid proof of their industry, perseverance, -and natural aptitude. More than one Continental Cabinet -has taken an active interest in these students. But not so, -I understand, her Majesty's Government. Several have -consequently gone to France, Germany, Austria, and Italy, -who might with advantage have come to England, as well as -those studying ship-building and engineering. It is a -matter not to be lost sight of in the future, for there are -other backward lands likely to be stimulated by the bright -example of Japan, and to endeavour to follow it.</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Cutlery, Table Knives.</span></p> - -<p>14.—The imports of cutlery have averaged 21,000 dollars -(say 3000<i>l.</i>) during each of the past three years, and practically -the whole came from Sheffield. It is a trade capable, I -believe, of great development. At the present time, the use -of table cutlery is confined to the foreign population and -visitors, and to a small proportion of the Japanese, perhaps -100,000 out of the forty millions.</p> - -<p>But this number is likely to increase every year, and, indeed, -every day, as European ideas, habits, and costume, -encouraged, by the imperial Court, the nobility, and the -leaders of commerce and thought, gain a firmer foothold. -It is illustrated <i xml:lang="la" lang="la">inter alia</i> by the wide adoption of English -head gear on the Lop of the native costume, and the consequent -importation of a million dollars worth of English -hats and caps in the last triennial period.</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Encouragement of Table Cutlery.</span></p> - -<p>At a recent industrial conference with some of my constituents, -an artisan asked if nothing could be done to -encourage Eastern races to abandon "chop sticks" in -favour of knives and forks. The question created some -amusement, but it showed much intelligence and acumen. -It has since occurred to me that possibly advantage might -be taken of the Japanese and Oriental generous custom of -present-giving to stimulate a taste for our cutlery, by -enabling donors to obtain at a small cost a gift knife and -fork, attractively got up either upon a card or in a case. -In any case an experiment would not be ruinous.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_344" id="Page_344">[344]</a></span></p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Razors, Scissors, and Pocket Knives.</span></p> - -<p>15.—I have obtained for the information of the Sheffield -trade, specimens of the razors, scissors, and pocket knives -now in use among the Japanese, and shall on my return -forward them to the Cutlers' Hall. As will be seen, they -are of a very rough and primitive description.</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Skill of Japanese as Cutlers.</span></p> - -<p>Time was when, according to Professor Rein, the German -scientist sent by the Prussian Government to report upon -"The Industries of Japan," "among the nations of Eastern -Asia the Japanese were known as skilful workers in iron, -which their celebrated armourers transformed into famous -weapons of excellent steel. The forging and polishing of -swords was a wearisome work demanding much skill and -practice. The tempering of the edge was carefully done in -the charcoal furnace, the softer backs and sides being surrounded -up to a certain point by fire clay, so that only the -edge remained outside. The cooling was in cold water. -Skilful sword cutlers gained for themselves high social -position, and won great glory and fame with their swords."</p> - -<p>It now survives only in collections of old weapons. An -Imperial edict forbade the carrying of swords, and in a few -weeks the most costly arms were a glut in the market.</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Demand for Razors.</span></p> - -<p>It is noteworthy that the Japanese very rarely allow any -hair to grow upon the face, and the humblest peasant is -regularly shaved by the barber, "dry," and with a rude -handleless razor.</p> - -<p>There is scope here. Indeed, a contract has just been -concluded with an English house in Japan, for the supply -of a considerable quantity of soft "German" steel, for the -blocking out of razors, and I noticed one considerable shop-keeper -announcing himself as "manufacturer of all kinds of -European hardware."</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Locomotive and other Engines.</span></p> - -<p>16.—In locomotive engines Great Britain supplied Japan -in 1890 with 474,000 dollars worth out of a total of 659,000 -dollars, Germany following with 81,000 dollars worth, and -the United States with rather more than half that sum. In -other engines and boilers 253,000 dollars worth came from<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_345" id="Page_345">[345]</a></span> -England out of a total import of 345,000 dollars, while of -railway carriages the United Kingdom supplied 10,000<i>l.</i> -worth, or the whole save 600<i>l.</i></p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Zinc.</span></p> - -<p>17.—In zinc, however, Germany took the lead with consignments -amounting to 141,000 dollars against 89,000 from -Great Britain. As the prosperity of the country advances -the use of zinc, especially for roofing purposes, is likely to -increase.</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Woollens and Flannels.</span></p> - -<p>18. While in woollen cloths England holds her own in -Japan with the supply of three-fifths of a gross import exceeding -last year a million dollars, she falls far behind in -woollen yarns and flannels. In the former Germany led in -the proportion of 3½ to 1, and in the latter by a sale of -715,000 dollars worth out of 927,000 dollars, and I understand -that the representative of a well-known English house -recently found the trade much overrun and business exceedingly -difficult.</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Apprehended Decline of English Cotton Trade.</span></p> - -<p>19.—It is, however, the cotton trade of Lancashire which -is likely to feel a serious change ere long in its relations with -Japan. Her Majesty's commercial representatives have -given warning of it for some time, and shown not only the -danger to be apprehended by English operatives from the -competition and cheap labour of India, but also from the -establishment of cotton spinning factories in Japan, and the -growing preference for the home made article.</p> - -<p>In 1885 there were only 62,000 Japanese spindles at work. -Now there are over 313,000 in 35 mills. Some have not -done well owing to defective management. But others are -working day and night. The importation of raw cotton has -quadrupled in the last three years, while that of cotton on -the seeds has doubled. A million dollars worth of the most -improved British spinning machinery was laid down last -year, and much attention is being given to the cultivation of -the cotton plant, although, owing to the typhoons, with indifferent -success.</p> - -<p>While British cotton velvets, satins, and handkerchiefs -have not lost ground, and grey shirtings, T cloths, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_346" id="Page_346">[346]</a></span> -Italian cloths came almost entirely from England, as also -turkey reds and victoria lawns, the work of the Japanese -mills is evidenced by a decline in the importation of cotton -yarns by over three million dollars since 1888, of which two -million fell on Great Britain, and a diminution in the purchase -of foreign cotton drills by two-thirds. In shawls also -there has been a shrinkage.</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">A Fresh Market for Lancashire.</span></p> - -<p>It is clear, therefore, that Manchester will have before -long to a great extent to replace her Japanese market, of -which she had, until lately, a monopoly. This may probably -be done most advantageously and effectively in the direction -of United Empire trade.</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Proposed Increase of Japanese Tariff.</span></p> - -<p>20.—Closely allied with this question is the almost certain -increase in a year or two of the Japanese tariff. The amount -collected at the present time by the Customs Bureau (whose -returns are compiled with much care and despatch) comes to -about 5 per cent. <i xml:lang="la" lang="la">ad valorem</i> (60 cents per 100 catties or -133⅓lbs. of steel, and 30 cents per 100 catties of manufactured -iron in rods, bars, etc., and 15 cents per 100 catties of -pig), and yielded last year 4,488,384 dollars, or nearly double -the customs revenue of 1881.</p> - -<p>It is highly probable that this rate will be doubled, or even -increased to 11 or 12 per cent. in accordance with the -demand of national manufacturers and operatives.</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Powerlessness of Her Majesty's Government. -Partiality of the Japanese for the -English.</span></p> - -<p>21.—Under present fiscal conditions in the United -Kingdom Her Majesty's Government is powerless to -negotiate for a special arrangement as regards England. -Were we differently situated it is not impossible that the -Emperor's Government might be willing to treat preferentially -with Great Britain, not only by reason of the -preponderance of British interests in Japan and Japanese -waters, but also on account of the popular partiality throughout -the empire for our countrymen and their productions. -This is evidenced in a thousand ways in the national life of -this most attractive people, and not least of all by the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_347" id="Page_347">[347]</a></span> -adoption of English as the secondary official and commercial -language, to an extent so great as to render it ample for -travel in all but the remote districts.</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">A Close Alliance with Japan most Desirable.</span></p> - -<p>22.—It is much to be desired that this feeling may receive -all possible encouragement. No question is likely to disturb -the harmony of Anglo-Japanese relations, and no alliance -is calculated to be of greater mutual advantage to both -nations.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_348" id="Page_348">[348]</a></span></p> - - - -<h3><a name="BRITISH_INTERESTS_IN_CHINA" id="BRITISH_INTERESTS_IN_CHINA"></a>"BRITISH INTERESTS IN CHINA."</h3> - -<p class="p4a">REPORT TO CENTRAL SHEFFIELD.</p> - - -<p>Having regard to the apprehension caused by the danger -in which foreigners in China have been lately placed, many -of my constituents desire to know the result of recent -inquiries at Peking and elsewhere, into the condition of -affairs as affecting <span class="smcap">British Trade and Industrial -Employment</span>. I have the honour, therefore, to submit the -following report.</p> - -<p>The details have been collected partly from official sources -and partly from the views of authorities in various spheres -who have favoured me with opinions founded for the most -part upon long personal experience.</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Extent of Chinese Empire.</span></p> - -<p>1.—It may be desirable, in the first place, to call to mind -the area and population of the Chinese Dominions, and the -system of government.</p> - -<p>The Empire of China proper is about 1,500,000 square -miles in extent, or twelve and a half times the size of the -United Kingdom; sevenfold the area of France or of -Germany; yet less than one-sixth the British Empire. To -this must be added the dependencies of Mongolia, Manchuria, -Thibet, &c., say 2,000,000 square miles.</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Population.</span></p> - -<p>2.—This vast and productive Empire, bordered upon the -West and South-West by the possessions of the British in -India and Burmah, and by Thibet; upon the North by Asiatic -Russia, and upon the South-East by French Indo-China, is -estimated to contain about four hundred millions of what -an English authority has described as "the most cheerfully -industrious, orderly, and wealthy nation in Asia."</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_349" id="Page_349">[349]</a></span></p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">The Emperor of China.</span></p> - -<p>3.—Over them despotically reigns, from the absolute -seclusion enforced by tradition of The Forbidden City at -Peking, the youthful descendant of The Conqueror who, two -centuries and a half ago, placed for the second time the -Tartar sceptre over the Chinese, and assumed the style of -"The Son of Heaven."</p> - -<p>The Crown does not devolve by primogeniture, but by the -posthumously declared selection of the reigning Emperor -among the male members of a younger line of the Imperial -House.</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">The Imperial Government.</span></p> - -<p>4.—The Central Government is regulated by an Inner -Chamber, a Grand Council, and the following six Ministries -or Boards: (<i>a</i>) Civil Office, (<i>b</i>) Revenue, (<i>c</i>) War, (<i>d</i>) Works, -(<i>e</i>) Ceremonies, (<i>f</i>) Punishments. Each Board is composed -of Manchus (Tartars) and Chinese in equal numbers, with -two Presidents—a system excluding individual power or -responsibility.</p> - -<p>The executive orders go from the Throne, and are obtained, -according to ancient custom, on petitions presented by the -Presidents of Boards or Members of the Grand Council, upon -their knees, at or before sunrise,—the course of the Vermilion -Pencil of the sovereign being, it is said, much influenced by -the Empress Dowager, who, during the Imperial minority of -seventeen years, skilfully administered the Regency.</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Foreign Affairs.</span></p> - -<p>5.—The relations of China with Foreign Powers are conducted -through a special Board or office—the "Tsung-Li-Yamen,"—consisting -of eleven members of the Grand Council -and six Chief Secretaries, a considerable number of whom, -with a large retinue of servants, receive, round a sweetmeat-covered -table, the official visits of diplomatic representatives. -This collective conduct of state business, added to the -difficulties of a language which, although monosyllabic, -contains over 20,000 characters, and the necessity of all -communications passing through interpreters (except in the -case of the French Minister, who speaks Chinese), much -restrains and practically prohibits the confidential and -personal negotiations which, in other countries, so much -facilitate the satisfactory conclusion of public affairs.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_350" id="Page_350">[350]</a></span></p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Provincial Administration.</span></p> - -<p>6.—For purposes of provincial administration, China is -divided into several Viceroyalties, each invested with a large -amount of sovereign power, including taxation, internal order -and defence. It is subject, however, to many ingenious -checks. In the first place, a Tartar General is attached to -each Viceroy, in a semi-independent position, and his assent -to many administrative matters is essential. Secondly, there -is a rule against the appointment of a Chinese Viceroy over -any province or provinces whereof he is a native. There is -also the vigilance of a Board of Censors, established 160 -years B.C., and theoretically consisting "of the most enlightened, -righteous, and firm persons," whose duty it is to -warn the Emperor direct of anything done to the public -detriment, not excepting even Imperial laches; for the -Chinese maxim runs—"To violate the law is the same crime -in the Emperor as in a subject."</p> - -<p>There are, within the Viceroyalties, 18 provinces, over -each of which is an Imperially-appointed Governor, a Treasurer, -a Judge and Comptrollers of the Salt Monopoly and -the Grain Tribute. Every province is again subdivided into -prefectures, departments, districts, and townships under -small Mandarins, and into village communes under Headmen.</p> - -<p>The territories of Mongolia and Manchuria are administered -martially; in Thibet and Corea there are "Residents" -representing the Chinese Suzerain.</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">The Mandarinate.</span></p> - -<p>7.—The Mandarinate is not hereditary, save in the case of -a few princely families, largely debarred from public life, and -the still surviving house of Confucius, which was elevated to -a Dukedom, 1500 years after the death of its founder, in -479 B.C.</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Public Offices.</span></p> - -<p>Public Offices are filled by nominated Mandarins of -various grades. They obtain their posts partly by proficiency -in successive urban, provincial, metropolitan, and -palace open competitive examinations in Chinese classical -lore, and partly by purchase or judicious bribery.</p> - -<p>The former literary tests were established twelve centuries -ago, and at least 1100 years before merit or study had much -place in European patronage.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_351" id="Page_351">[351]</a></span></p> - -<p>The brilliant graduate of humble origin rarely lacks, moreover, -the pecuniary support necessary for the prosecution of -his studies, or for official recognition of his examination -laurels. Localities, banks, and capitalists are usually ready -to stand behind a man of promise, as an investment, to be -liberally recouped by ulterior "squeeze,"—on his attaining -place,—smally paid in itself, however exalted, but prolific in -indirect sources of enrichment.</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Influence of the Literati.</span></p> - -<p>8.—Nothing is declared to press so heavily upon the social, -political, and national progress of China, as the adverse -influence of the "educated" classes. So it was even in the -time of the great monarch who, 200 years before Christ, consolidated -the Chinese Empire, and built the still-enduring -Great Wall, in hopes of thereby defeating Tartar incursions. -To overcome the opposition of the Literati, he ordered all -their books to be destroyed. But the fact remains that the -vigorous heads among the people, who, in other lands, have -had to carve their forward path, by agitation and revolution, -through the barriers of social rank, caste, and the privileges -of wealth, have had for ages in China an open avenue to -advancement.</p> - -<p>Thus it is that the student tendency, instead of being, as -in every other part of the world, in the direction of reform, -is applied to the most absolute maintenance of the present -system, and to the rejection alike of the methods and -appliances of the Western world.</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Students sent to Europe.</span></p> - -<p>9.—It is true that a few youths have, from time to time, -been sent to Europe and America, but their studies have -been either cut short, or the palace circle has succeeded in -relegating them, on return, to distant posts. Some also have -gone back, not imbued, like the Japanese, with ardent -enthusiasm for reforms, but apparently more embittered than -ever against the foreigner.<a name="FNanchor_3_3" id="FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a> How little influence they have -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_352" id="Page_352">[352]</a></span>had, and how little is really known of the West, may be -illustrated by the belief said to have been expressed by a -provincial functionary in high office, that foreigners came -to China, from the barren rock of Europe, to obtain -"rice" as a means of subsistence; and to the opinion of -another, that we owed scientific progress, not to our own -discoveries, but to having obtained a copy of the ancient -Chinese classics, saved from the above-mentioned Imperial -destruction.</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">National Result.</span></p> - -<p>10.—The national result is that, although recent events -have hastened forward the completion of a telegraph -system, there is throughout the Chinese Empire but one -short railway, no proper road communication, and defective -attention to the unrivalled waterways, no uniform system of -taxation, no reliable administration of justice, no Chinese -currency (other than brass cash), no postal system, and -little regard for the public health and welfare; yet, wherewithal, -there is great respect for private property and the -due transmission of the small holdings into which the land is -divided.</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Prospect of Reform.</span></p> - -<p>11.—That a people sometimes accounted "the active race -of mankind"; as keen and reliable in business as any in the -universe; the reputed first inventors of the mariner's compass, -of gunpowder, of ink, printing, and paper (which have contributed -so much to England's greatness), should be content -with such a condition of things may well pass belief. Ambassadors -have of late been sent to Europe, Diplomatists, -consuls, traders, and missionaries have endeavoured to show<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_353" id="Page_353">[353]</a></span> -the light. The example of Japan is at hand. Yet no man -can say, upon any foundation of actual fact, that a change is -probable or imminent.</p> - -<p>It is true that fully two millions of industrious Chinese -emigrants can testify to their speedy acquirement of comparative -wealth under happier conditions, despite laws of -exclusion in America. The majority are said, however, to -return quietly home and settle down (awaiting interment in -one of the family burial places which cover the surface of -the country and much prevent the sale of land) to that -worship of ancestors, filial obedience, and veneration for -authority, which are quoted with pride as contrasting -favourably "with a society where each generation despises -the one which immediately preceded it, and strains after the -future without respect to the past."</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Want of Leaders.</span></p> - -<p>12.—There is also an undoubted want of men willing to -champion, or capable of leading, a party of reform.</p> - -<p>The two most conspicuous statesmen in the Empire—and, -indeed, the only ones—are the Viceroy of the Metropolitan -Province of Chilhi, and the Viceroy of Hupeh.</p> - -<p>The former is His Excellency Li Hung Chang, who, for -40 years, has possessed a great and beneficial influence. To -the viceregal functions are united those of Grand Secretary -of the Empire and Commissioner for Northern Trade, in -which capacity His Excellency is consulted on all foreign -and naval matters. He has the forts on the Peiho in good -order, the troops well trained and armed—not with matchlocks -or bows and arrows, as in other viceroyalties, but -with modern weapons, replenished from arsenals at Tientsin, -under foreign direction. A railway<a name="FNanchor_4_4" id="FNanchor_4_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a> runs, moreover, under -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_354" id="Page_354">[354]</a></span>English management, to the Gulf of Pechilhi, and its -extension to within 14 miles of Peking was once authorized, -but subsequently disallowed.</p> - -<p>Unfortunately, Li Hung Chang, who has given not a few -proofs of his good-will and preference for England, is over -70 years of age, and his brother, the Viceroy of Canton, who -also vainly seeks to build a railway to Kowloon, opposite -Hong Kong, is still older.</p> - -<p>His Excellency Chang Chili Tung, Viceroy of Hupeh and -Houan, is a different stamp of man, in the prime of life, and -energetic. But the regeneration of the Chinese must be, he -contends, by the Chinese, and not by foreigners. To carry -out his project of a railway from Hankow to Peking, he was -transferred from a superior viceroyalty, and to this end an -iron foundry has been established at Hanvang. The rails -and the plant are all, however, to be of Chinese make, so -that the commencement, not to say the opening of the line, -is still in the Greek Kalends.</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Secret Societies.</span></p> - -<p>13.—The influence of secret societies is also prejudicial to -reform. They exist in every province, but their objects are -often merely local and devoid of revolutionary aims. Their -existence has, however, been put forward upon more than -one occasion in extenuation of popular excesses.</p> - -<p>Some, moreover, like the "Kolao Hui," or Association of -Elder Brethren, mainly formed of disbanded soldiers eager -for employment, have spread widely, and could bring about -serious trouble. Others, like the "Broken Coffin Society," -so well repressed by the British among the vast Chinese -population of the Straits Settlements, have predatory aims.</p> - -<p>It is not, however, thought that the overthrow of the -system of government, or of a dynasty, which has exterminated -its rival, is held in serious contemplation, except by -extremists, who may, however, get the upper hand. Very -summary proceedings and execution tend to damp the -enthusiasm of active agitation. Moreover, the difficulty the -Southern Provinces, speaking Cantonese, or the Centre and -Western Districts, speaking other dialects, have in making -themselves understood by Northerners, speaking Mandarin, -or the official language,<a name="FNanchor_5_5" id="FNanchor_5_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_5_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a> coupled with the practical absence -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_355" id="Page_355">[355]</a></span>of a press (besides the Official Gazette), restrains revolutionary -propaganda by means more effectual than police -edicts.</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Intercourse with Foreign Nations.</span></p> - -<p>14.—At the same time the intercourse of China with the -outer world has undergone frequent change, and especially -during the present generation. The leading incentor to -French activity in the Far East, says—"Yesterday Chinese -trade did not exist for Europe, but to-day it puts thousands -of arms in motion in England, and amounts to millions."</p> - -<p>This is literally true. The Dutch and the Portuguese -were before us. Even as early as <span class="smcap">A.D.</span> 971, a superintendent -was appointed at Ningpo to overlook foreign trade, and -before that, there was such a functionary stationed at -Canton. Until the latter part of the last century the British -flag had hardly appeared. But now we have outstripped -the competition of the whole of the world.</p> - -<p>Fifty years ago England sent to China barely half a -million worth of goods. The first war Her Majesty was -obliged to wage in the interests of British trade, brought -about the opening of new ports, and in 1844 the English -exports to the China Sea exceeded 2,300,000. Then were -forced upon us the operations of 1857-58, and the war of -1860, resulting in the Treaty of Peking. Within the next -decade British commerce rose to 9,000,000 a year. Now -it is half as much again. Apart, then, from the indemnity, -and the anterior cession of Hong Kong, become one of the -greatest, as well as most beautiful, ports in the world, the -cost of the operations has been defrayed many times over -in increased wages to British artisans.</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Benefit to China.</span></p> - -<p>15.—Nor has the advantage been one-sided. The gain to -China has been even greater. The value of the Chinese -foreign trade for 1890 is given by Sir Robert Hart, the -Inspector-General of the imperial Maritime Customs (an -Englishman whose eminent services to China receive universal -recognition), at 214 million Haikwan taels (the average -value of which, for last year, was 5<i>s.</i> 2-1/4<i>d.</i>), say, in round -numbers, 53,000,000, or double the total of a few years age, -while in the last decennial period the imports have increased -by 48 million taels, and the exports by 9 millions.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_356" id="Page_356">[356]</a></span></p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Treaty Ports.</span></p> - -<p>16.—Under various treaties, mainly negotiated by England, -twenty-one ports and places have been opened for foreign -trade and residence, of which five are on the River Yangtze, -penetrating over a thousand miles into the heart of the -interior. Two other places were added in 1889, under -agreement with France.</p> - -<p>At most treaty ports a portion of the urban area has been -assigned to the foreign community, who are left free to -provide for its regulations—a duty which is usually discharged -by the help of tolls on shipping and house rates, -as to roads, lighting, public conveyances, and buildings, in -a manner which sets the most successful example of municipal -work to the neighbouring native administration.</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Duty upon Foreign Goods.</span></p> - -<p>17.—An import and an export duty, each averaging 5 per -cent. <i>ad valorem</i>, is levied upon goods conveyed in foreign -vessels, which are, upon the other hand, exempted from the -"Likin" or war tax, and freely granted transit passes, clearing -them from the prefectural tolls, which do not a little to -embarrass the native trader in the interior.</p> - -<p>The duty upon foreign goods is collected by the Imperial -Maritime Customs—a splendid service, employing 700 -Europeans and 4000 Chinese. It yielded, in 1890, a -revenue of 22 million taels (say 5,500,000) to the Chinese -Government, or a third more than ten years ago, and further -supervises the lighting and buoying of the coast.</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Duty upon Native Goods.</span></p> - -<p>18.—The import and the export duty upon goods conveyed -in Chinese junks is levied by the Chinese Customs Service; -and it is said that many shipments are so made to escape -the vigilance and the higher taxation of the European Administration, -and are subsequently transferred to foreign -bottoms at Hong Kong or elsewhere.</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">British Share of Foreign Trade.</span></p> - -<p>19.—Three-fourths of the entire foreign trade of China fell, -last year, to the share of the British Empire, or more, by -three million taels, than that done by the entire Continent -of Europe and the United States of America. The trade<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_357" id="Page_357">[357]</a></span> -with the United Kingdom, including that passing through -Hong Kong, exceeded 15,000,000.</p> - -<p>The Commissioners of Customs at Tientsin, Newchwang, -Ningpo, and other treaty ports, all speak of "the increased -demand for British goods," in spite of much distress last -year, owing to floods in many places; and while Shanghai -reports that "German figures fall off decidedly," the Commissioner -at Kinkiang states that "the British and Chinese -had all the trade to themselves."</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">British Shipping in Chinese Waters.</span></p> - -<p>20.—This fortunate state of affairs is strikingly illustrated -by the British shipping in Chinese waters. The red ensign -of England, which appeared on the first steamer in the -Yellow Sea, in 1830, floated in 1890 upon 16,897 of the -20,530 foreign vessels which entered and cleared at Chinese -ports, while the British tonnage amounted to 8/9ths of the -whole.</p> - -<p>Our next competitors were the Germans, with whom we -have so much in common, and who are sparing no effort to -develop their China trade. They entered and cleared 2140 -vessels last year, or 622 fewer than in 1888, with a diminution -of 227,000 tons burthen.</p> - -<p>A good proportion of the coast-carrying trade was also -done by British-built steamers, carrying the dragon flag, -and wholly owned by Chinese merchants. But, with very -few exceptions, insurance companies and underwriters insist -upon such vessels being commanded and officered by British -or Americans. Besides this, the majority of the pilots on -the Peiho and other rivers are British, a state of affairs -pointing to the necessity of nothing being omitted by the -Board of Trade to afford every possible facility to the -merchant marine to acquire the technical knowledge -necessary to maintain this world-wide reputation of the -English for superior nautical skill.</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Preponderance of British Interests.</span></p> - -<p>21.—These facts show the enormous preponderance of -British interests in China,—a condition of things existing -also in Japan,—not only over those of the whole world, but -especially as regards those of France, Germany, Russia, or -any other European power.</p> - -<p>They are corroborated by the establishment in China of -327 British firms, or double the number of the mercantile<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_358" id="Page_358">[358]</a></span> -houses of every other nation, and by the residence at the -treaty ports of over 3300 British subjects, out of a total -foreign population of about 8000.</p> - -<p>Germany comes next with 80 firms and 640 residents; -following her, America, with 32 firms; and then France, -with 19 firms and 590 persons.</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Representation of the British People.</span></p> - -<p>22.—Under such circumstances the British public cannot -be otherwise than glad that Her Majesty the Queen is fitly -represented at Peking by what is not unfrequently described -in the vernacular as "The Great English Legation."</p> - -<p>The consular service of Britain in China is also manned by -some three-score officers, each one of whom is an accomplished -Chinese scholar, a large majority having passed -through the arduous Student Interpreter Course, which -is ready to fill junior vacancies, as they occur, with young -men evidently as well selected as they are carefully trained.</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Diplomatic and Consular Assistance to British -Trades.</span></p> - -<p>23.—At the same time it would be idle to deny that, in -spite of recent improvements, British traders generally complain -in China, as elsewhere, of the lack of diplomatic and -consular assistance in the advancement of English trade, -and the apparently little official interest shown therein.</p> - -<p>The French have a like grievance, and the work of -German representatives for their nationals is often cited -with envy. It is said, though probably with exaggerated -truth, that German Ministers and Consuls are unflagging -in their efforts to advance German commercial interests, to -show that German traders have government recognition and -approval, and that the employment of Germans, instead of -English or French, is much appreciated by the Emperor -William.</p> - -<p>It is possible that the out-of-date view that diplomatic -and consular officers are purely political agents may be excessively -retained in some instances, and that the assistance -rendered by Her Majesty's Consuls to British trade -might advantageously receive more encouragement and -departmental recognition.</p> - -<p>There can be no doubt, however, of the difficulty which -would ensue by consular espousal of the interests of a particular -firm to the inevitable prejudice of a rival house.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_359" id="Page_359">[359]</a></span></p> - -<p>Nor is the prestige small or unimportant which Her -Majesty's service derives from the fact that any expressions -of opinion, or any advice tendered, are known to be wholly -free from any interested motives.</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Iron and Steel Trade in China.</span></p> - -<p>24.—In examining the position in China of particular industries, -attention must first be directed to the iron, steel, -and hardware trade.</p> - -<p>The standard work (Williams' "Middle Kingdom") -says:—"Handicraftsmen of every name are content with -coarse-looking tools compared with those turned out at -Sheffield; but the work produced by some of them is far -from contemptible. The bench of the carpenter is a low, -narrow, inclined frame, on which he sits to plane, groove, -and work his boards, using his feet and toes to steady them. -His augers, bits, and gimlets are worked with a bow; but -most of the edge-tools employed by him and the blacksmith -are similar in shape, but less convenient than our own. -They are sharpened with bows, on grindstones, and also -with a cold steel like a spokeshave, with which the edge is -scraped thin.</p> - -<p>"Steel is everywhere manufactured in a rude way, but -the foreign importation is gradually supplying a better -article."</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Importation of Metals.</span></p> - -<p>25.—This is illustrated by the importation, in 1890, of -242,000 taels (60,500<i>l.</i>) worth of steel, besides 800,000 taels -worth of iron sheets, plates, bars, hoops, nail rod, pig and -old iron, and 500,000 taels worth of copper bars, nails, wire, -&c.,—a purchase exceeding 400,000<i>l.</i>,—the greater part of -which was from the United Kingdom.</p> - -<p>The Statistical Secretary of the Imperial Maritime Customs -states that "iron of all kinds maintained, in 1890, a -steady consumption of 1,100,000 piculs (each picul equals -133-1/2 lbs.), and steel rose from 39,000 to 56,000 piculs,—an -increase of 43 per cent.,—although it is noticeable that the -import is very variable from year to year."</p> - -<p>The Commissioner at Newchwang states that "importations -of metals advanced to the enormous extent of 113 per -cent. over 1889—the most conspicuous being nail rod;" -while his colleague at Tientsin speaks of "the increasing -demand for manufactured iron nails, which are cheaper and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_360" id="Page_360">[360]</a></span> -better than those made by native blacksmiths;" and Chin-kiang -states, from the Central Provinces—"For iron of all -kinds, 1890 totals have not been equalled."</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Sheffield Enterprise.</span></p> - -<p>26.—The enterprise of Sheffield has not been behindhand. -In 1843, after the Northern ports had been opened, a <cite>Times</cite> -correspondent reported "that an eminent Sheffield firm -sent out a large consignment of knives and forks, and -declared themselves prepared to supply all China with cutlery. -The Chinamen, who knew not the use of knives and -forks (or, as they say, abandoned the use of them when they -became civilized), but toss the rice into their mouths with -chopsticks, would not look at these best balanced knives. -They were sold at prices which scarcely realized their -freight, and shops were for years afterwards adorned with -them, formed into devices, like guns in an armoury."</p> - -<p>A somewhat similar fate has attended the efforts of another -prominent, but younger firm, whose dust-covered sample -cards were shown me in Shanghai.</p> - -<p>Although in 1885 Germany sent a considerable quantity -of cutlery to Tientsin, Chefoo, and elsewhere, Sheffield -evidently meets the demand of foreign residents as regards -table articles, for some of our leading names are present at -every meal.</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Demand for Razors.</span></p> - -<p>27.—The demand for razors is, however, enormous. It is -stated that, having regard to the artificially caused excess of -the male population, some 180 or 200 millions of men have -their heads and faces "painfully" shaved once a week by a -razor of the rude specimen I am sending, with others, to the -Cutlers' Hall, and which cost about 5 cents, or 2½<i>d.</i> Three-quarters -of a Chinaman's head is always kept closely shaved, -and custom prohibits either whiskers or beards, and even -moustaches, unless before then a grandfather!</p> - -<p>At Canton, a well-known Hallamshire trade-mark is -reported as selling freely on razors at 20 cents. But in other -places, more removed from British example, I was assured -that it is quite hopeless to induce Chinese barbers to adopt -the Sheffield shapes, unless they wish to empty their crowded -shops. For the Sheffield-made <em>Chinese pattern</em>, however, a -vast demand might possibly be brought about by careful -agents, if only it can be done at the low price the Chinese -are willing to pay.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_361" id="Page_361">[361]</a></span></p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Demand for Large Forgings.</span></p> - -<p>28.—There is already a considerable request for large -forgings, and the arsenals under the control of Englishmen -are steadfast believers in the undoubted superiority of English -manufacture. But all agree that it is nothing compared to -what will come when China really begins to go ahead, and -to open up for her people the vast wealth of the Empire. -The representatives of Messrs. Krupp and of M. Creuzot -are very vigilant, active, and skilful.</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Adoption of Metrical Measurement.</span></p> - -<p>29.—In connection with this matter, it is important to mention -that a recommendation is about to go forward from a -high authority, to whom attention is paid, that China should -adopt, as Japan has already done, the metrical system of -measurement of France and Germany. Unless this is -fully realized, there may be a loss of valuable business, for -although there are measures which render feet and inches -in mtres and millimtres with the utmost nicety, foreigners -contend that there is sometimes an inevitable plus or minus, -which upsets calculations.</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Want of Uniform Monetary Standard.</span></p> - -<p>30.—In the same direction, too, it may not be amiss to give -expression to the general mercantile complaint of the -absence of a uniform and international decimal monetary -system. Not only are many firms ruined by unexpected -and often unaccountable fluctuations of exchange between the -29 principal currencies of the world, but the clerical labour -involved, not to speak of constant misunderstandings, is -stated to be most prejudicial.</p> - -<p>This can be appreciated when it is considered that trade -in the East is conducted in rupees, piastres, Mexican and -American dollars, Japanese yen, silver shoes, shapes, and -bars; Haikwan, Shanghai, and Tientsin taels—the latter -unrepresented by coins or notes, and all varying in value -from day to day. The Shanghai tael, for instance, which -was worth 4<i>s.</i> 3⅛<i>d.</i>, on February 28th, 1890, rose to 5<i>s.</i> 3⅛<i>d.</i>, -by September 5th,—a difference of 23 per cent.,—and fell -back again 13 per cent. in the next two months. The rupee, -too, worth 2<i>s.</i> at par, was at a discount of eightpence in 1889, -but early in 1890 all but touched 1<i>s.</i> 9<i>d.</i>, until, in November, -it fell to 1<i>s.</i> 5½<i>d.</i>—each penny of fall occasioning not only<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_362" id="Page_362">[362]</a></span> -great loss to individuals, but it is calculated many thousand -lacs of rupees to the Indian Government.</p> - -<p>It is difficult to say which decimal system has the most -advocates,—probably dollars and cents,—but all agree that -pounds, shillings and pence, and English coins on which -the value is not stated, entail more trouble than any standard.</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Cotton Goods.</span></p> - -<p>31.—The vast present and the enormous future interest -Lancashire has in China, as also the British capitalist in -India, is shown by the Imperial customs report for 1890. It -runs thus:—"Cotton goods bounded upwards in value from -36 million taels in 1889, to 45 millions (say 11,000,000<i>l.</i>) in -1890—an increase of 25 per cent. Cotton goods of nearly -every texture were infected with the general contagion of -increase, and expanding in quantity and value, while cotton -yarn, and more particularly that from India, poured into -China in a higher ratio of increase than ever heretofore, -having risen from 108,000 piculs in 1878, to over a million -piculs in 1890, representing 19⅓ millions of taels (say nearly -5,000,000<i>l.</i>), or 50 per cent. more than in the previous -year."</p> - -<p>It is not necessary to add anything to this authoritative -statement, unless it be that the French efforts to force their -"cotonnade" upon the Annamites, by prohibitory duties -upon all foreign goods in Indo-China, are unavailing, and that -the prospect before Manchester is unlimited so soon as the -South-West of China is opened from Burmah. It is tempered -only by the establishment of mills to turn Chinese-grown -cotton into yarn.</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Wollens.</span></p> - -<p>32.—In woollen goods there was, in 1890, an importation -of 3½ million taels worth—a slight falling off compared with -the previous year, mainly in English camlets and lastings.</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Export of Silk.</span></p> - -<p>33.—Nothing, perhaps, more eloquently exhibits the importance -of China as a commercial factor in the world, and -the necessity of foreign trade to her people, than the silk -industry, which employs many tens of thousands of persons. -Fifty years ago not a bale was exported, at least to England; -but last year over 30¼ million taels' worth were sent abroad.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_363" id="Page_363">[363]</a></span> -Even that large quantity showed a falling away, owing to -transient circumstances, of 16 per cent. over the previous -year.</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">The Tea Trade.</span></p> - -<p>34.—The staple export of China, and the one with which -the Celestial Empire is most closely identified in the popular -mind, is, of course, her tea.</p> - -<p>In 1670, eighty pounds of China tea were exported into -England, and, despite export duties, varying in China and in -the United Kingdom from 400 per cent. on the productive -cost to 100 per cent. at the present time, the trade increased -to 108 million pounds in 1880.</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">India Tea.</span></p> - -<p>35.—Since then there has, however, been a serious decline, -increasing so much, from year to year, as to jeopardize the -entire industry. This is declared to be mainly owing to the -fortuitous development of tea-planting in India and Ceylon, -and to the preference shown by the English consumer for -tea of British growth.</p> - -<p>Twelve months after the Queen's accession, 400 lbs. of -Indian tea were sent to England as an experiment. In 1890 -the consignment was over 100,000,000 lbs., and Ceylon sent -nearly half as much. The effect has been that, while, in -1865, out of every 100 lbs. of tea sold in England 97 lbs. -were Chinese and only 3 lbs. Indian, in 1890 the Chinese -proportion had fallen by about 50 per cent., and the cost to -the British tea drinker was also in like degree reduced.</p> - -<p>One reason put forward by the experts, consulted by the -Maritime Customs, is that "a good stout tea, that will stand -several waterings, is what suits the mass of English consumers, -and this India provides much better than China." -The English merchants at Shanghai and Foochow affirm, -however, that this greater strength is purchased by the -retention of deleterious properties.</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Apathy of the Chinese.</span></p> - -<p>36.—It is in vain that the attention of Chinese cultivators -has been called to the condition of the tea industry by all -concerned. Moreover, four years ago, the Inspector-General -of Customs thus addressed the Imperial authorities:—</p> - -<p>"To a government, its people's industries must be of -higher importance than revenue. I would, therefore, advise<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_364" id="Page_364">[364]</a></span> -that taxes be remitted, in order that industries may be -preserved. Think for the people, and forego revenue. -Export duties ought to be light, in order that the surplus -production of a people may go for sale elsewhere. Import -duties, on the contrary, are the duties which ought to be -retained; but the use to be made of each commodity ought -to be well weighed. If it is something people cannot do -without, it ought to be exempt from duty; but if it is a luxury, -it ought to be heavily taxed. On the right application of -these principles depend the nation's wealth, and the people's -too."</p> - -<p>Nothing whatever has been done. From Foochow the -export has declined by one-half in ten years, and deprived -the revenue of a million taels a year, and the people of five -million taels in wages. The opinion is indeed general "that -the gradual extinction of the China tea trade is practically -assured, unless something retards Indian and Ceylon production, -or drastic measures are adopted."</p> - -<p>The "Shanli," or hill tax; the "Likin," or war tax, and -the export duty, are all maintained intact, and the unfortunate -Chinese growers have to compete with the untaxed tea -of India and Ceylon. What distress is likely soon to ensue -may be gathered from the fact that the production of one-half -only of the output of the Assam Company, with its few -hundred employs, affords the main sustenance of 4500 -Chinese families, or, say, about 20,000 persons. They are -themselves, moreover, so apprehensive that the introduction -of the machinery in vogue in India and Ceylon will diminish -employment that the Government has not felt itself strong -enough to protect its use.</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Foreign Opium Traffic.</span></p> - -<p>37.—The opium question excites much interest in England. -Some philanthropists have feared that the revenue of over -5,000,000<i>l.</i> a year, derived by the Indian Government from -the licensed and carefully-restricted cultivation of the raw -material of the valuable drug, is in major degree responsible -for the reported influence upon the Chinese of opium smoking. -They may be somewhat reassured by the result of a -careful European inquiry, officially instituted throughout the -Empire. It shows that imported opium is only smoked by -the affluent, the luxurious, and well-to-do, or, at most, by -one-third of one per cent. of the population; that is, by about -three per thousand.</p> - -<p>The annual importation used to amount to an average of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_365" id="Page_365">[365]</a></span> -100,000 chests, yielding, for smoking, about 4000 tons of -boiled opium. They cost the consumers upwards of -17,000,000<i>l.</i>, of which 3,000,000<i>l.</i> went to the Chinese revenue. -But it is a rapidly declining element in Chinese finances, and -the deficit may, before long, have to be made up by increasing -the duties upon other imports.</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Native Opium.</span></p> - -<p>38.—Native opium was known, produced, and used in China -long before any Europeans began the sale of the foreign -drug. The records of the 10th century prove this; and -opium figures as an item in the tariff of 1589, and again in a -customs list of the 17th century. Hundreds of square miles -are devoted to the cultivation of the poppy, which, according -to the late Dr. Williams, "is now grown in every province, -without any real restraint being anywhere put on it." -Native opium sells for half the price of the foreign article, -and its smokers are consequently more numerous among -the people and younger practitioners (<i>i.e.</i>, those from 25 to 35 -years of age). It is, in short, say the latest reports, "forcing -foreign opium out of consumption with triple energy."</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Number of Opium Smokers.</span></p> - -<p>39.—The best authorities concur that the whole of the -smokers, of either foreign or native opium, do not exceed -two-thirds of one per cent. of the population, or adding a -margin, say, seven per thousand (Replies to Circular No. -64, Second Series, Inspectorate General of Customs)—a -state of affairs which is corroborated from the great town of -Tientsin, with its million of inhabitants. The Commissioner -of Customs reports "that but little opium is consumed, -owing to the growing influence of Abstention Societies, the -40,000 members of which neither smoke the drug or tobacco, -nor drink liquors of any kind."</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Effect of Opium-smoking.</span></p> - -<p>40.—The effect of opium-smoking, injurious and wasting of -vital power though it may be, is certainly not apparent to -the ordinary traveller; and the American clergyman, whose -work on China, founded on the experience of a life-time, -aided by keenest judgment, has been adopted by every -foreign legation as the Text Book for aspiring Consuls, thus -records his opinion:—</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_366" id="Page_366">[366]</a></span></p> - -<p>"A dose of opium does not produce the intoxication of -ardent spirits, and, so far as the peace of the community and -his family are concerned, the smoker is less troublesome -than the drunkard. The former never throws the chairs -and tables about the room, or drives his wife out of doors -in his furious rage; he never goes reeling through the -streets or takes lodgings in the gutter, but, contrariwise, -he is quiet and pleasant, and fretful only when the effects -of the pipe are gone."</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Missionary Work in China.</span></p> - -<p>41.—The missionary work of endeavouring to reclaim China -from the faith which was first introduced 65 years before -Christ, and whereof the leading principles are stated as the -worship of ancestors and of sky and earth, has become, -during the last 30 years, of political as well as of religious -importance, for it constantly gives rise, and has done so -very lately, to serious international difficulties.</p> - -<p>Although there are many who regard the missionaries as -doing valuable secular service in accustoming the native -population in remote districts to the sight of European faces, -and in prompting inquiry as to the source of their evenly -balanced and steady lives, constituting them thus as pioneers -of trade, it is undoubted that the great majority of foreign -residents are openly sceptical as to the fertility of the -missionary field. They are especially apprehensive of the -effect when the ground is tilled by fragile mothers and young -ladies in the teeth of deep and apparently ineradicable -prejudice against the public work of women, and particularly -in conjunction with the opposite sex, for as an incendiary -proclamation, calling on Wuhu "to chase out all the barbarian -thieves," ran, "This breach of morality and custom is -in itself a violation of the fixed laws of the State."</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Roman Catholic Missionaries.</span></p> - -<p>42.—The first missionary labourers were the Italian Jesuits. -They came to China three centuries ago, and by toleration -some of the least objectionable tenets of Buddhism, and a -malicious employment of their European learning, obtained -such imperial favour as to be put at the head of the Astronomical -Board, and to be employed to build the celebrated -summer palace. There seemed, indeed, every possibility, at -one time, of the wholesale conversion of the Chinese to the -Roman Catholic Church, termed by the Emperor, K'anghi,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_367" id="Page_367">[367]</a></span> -"the Sect of the Lord of the Sky." But then came Christian -dissension, and following it soon, as in Japan, their persecution, -slaughter, and expulsion.</p> - -<p>Now the Church of Rome is stated to have, in China, 60 -Bishops or Vicars Apostolic, some 600 European Priests (of -whom 65 per cent. are French), and about 400 Chinese clergy. -It claims, also, close upon 700,000 adherents (in Japan the -proportion is one in every 905 persons)—a calculation which -should, however, be read probably in conjunction with the -officially published fact, that of 13,684 baptisms in the metropolitan -diocese between August 15th, 1891, and August 14th, -1891, 11,583 were "<i xml:lang="la" lang="la">baptismi puerorum infidelium in articulo -mortis</i>."</p> - -<p>At the same time recognition should be given to the general -respect entertained by foreigners of opposing Christian creeds -for the life-long devotion to their task, on the slenderest stipend, -of the Roman priesthood. Their success as to numbers -is also said to be much aided by their care of the mundane -interests of the converted, who, loath to continue subscribing -to family memorial halls for communication with ancestors, -and to extravagant funeral rites, if not also to that support -of aged parents which is obligatory on Chinese Buddhists, -are shunned by their kindred, and often find private employment, -even in foreign families, as impossible to obtain as a -public office.</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Protestant Missions.</span></p> - -<p>43.—Nor have the Protestant Churches, although later in -the field, been backward in sending out representatives. A -considerable proportion of the <em>thirteen hundred thousand</em> -pounds, which is on an average annually subscribed in the -United Kingdom for the support of Foreign Missions, goes -from "Darkest England" to China. The United States are -even more liberal, and school buildings have been erected by -Americans, on an extensive scale, in many places.</p> - -<p>Forty-one Protestant Societies were represented in 1890, -by 589 men, 391 wives, and 316 single ladies,—a total of 1296 -persons, of whom 724 were British, 513 American, and 59 -Continental,—assisted by 1660 natives. These numbers -may now be slightly larger.</p> - -<p>As regards persuasions, 7 per cent. of the Protestant -Missions belong to the Church of England, 20 per cent. are -Presbyterian, 14 per cent. Methodist, 12 per cent. Congregational, -9 per cent. Baptist, and the larger number, or 38 per -cent., unclassified.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_368" id="Page_368">[368]</a></span></p> - -<p>There are upwards of 550 Protestant Churches, distributing, -in 1889, 700,000 Bibles and 1,200,000 tracts, and over -60 hospitals and 50 dispensaries.</p> - -<p>The result of the work since 1842, reported to the Protestant -Conference, held in 1890, was, in round numbers, 37,300 -communicants (of whom over two-thirds are stated to be -Nonconformists), or about one in ten thousand of the population; -19,800 pupils; while 348,000 persons were returned -as having received medical aid, or at least to have visited a -missionary dispensary—a work which is acknowledged by -all to be of the utmost value, to be of real national benefit, -and to be appreciated by the people. It is much encouraged -by the Rev. Hudson Taylor, himself a surgeon -and native of Barnsley, who from Shanghai directs, with -great tact, the undenominational China Inland Mission, the -members of which adopt, like the Roman Catholics, the -Chinese costume, and, like them, are smally remunerated, -the expenses of the Mission, exceeding 38,000 a year, being -met by unsolicited contributions.</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">The Recent Disturbances.</span></p> - -<p>44.—The disturbances on the Yangtze in 1891, like those at -Tientsin in 1870, had for ostensible cause the fixed popular -suspicion that the succour of foundlings by the Roman -Catholic sisterhoods is for nefarious medicinal purposes. -Many of the female children, purposely exposed to die, -are necessarily, as indeed in Europe, in a moribund condition -when brought in, and the mortality is very high. This is confirmed -by the baptismal figures above quoted. The freedom -of access, anywhere and to anybody, which is inseparable -from Chinese life, and is tolerated, however disagreeable, by -the most experienced missionaries, has also sometimes been -attended, it is alleged, with difficulty, especially from native -converts, and irritation has resulted.</p> - -<p>The facts disclosed in the British Parliamentary Paper -(C. 6431) appear to be that, on May 9th, 1891, two Chinese -nuns were visiting a sick family at Wuhsueh, on the river -Yangtze. As the disease of the parents was infectious, they -removed the children. On the way to the Mission they met -a relation, who demanded their restoration. This being -refused, the nuns were taken before a magistrate, who, however, -on the requisition of the fathers, immediately released -them.</p> - -<p>This excited much popular agitation, and three days<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_369" id="Page_369">[369]</a></span> -afterwards, a woman came to the Mission to claim a child -alleged to have died therein. As she was accompanied by a -small crowd, which assembles in the narrow teeming streets -of China on the slightest pretext, admission was <i>apparently</i> -refused. Then commenced the work of destruction, costing -two Englishmen, who gallantly went from some distance to -render help, their lives, and imperilling many others, not -only in the locality itself, but, later on, elsewhere on the river. -Much foreign property was destroyed, and a very serious -state of affairs seemed likely to supervene, for, as <i>The Times</i> -recently wrote, and experience has often shown, "Native -feelings of hostility, once roused against the white man and -whetted by the intoxication of success, cannot be expected to -take account of an imaginary dividing line between two -spheres."</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Anti-Foreign Feeling.</span></p> - -<p>45.—In attributing the outbreak to Chinese hatred of the -foreigner, two observations appear in this instance to claim -consideration. The first is by Mr. Consul Gardner, in his -despatch of June 9:—</p> - -<p>"The mob was composed of many hostile from mere -ignorance, many from the force of contagion, some from fear -of others, a few really friendly, who, like the soldiers, led a -lady to a place of safety under pretence of robbing her of a -ring, and others who sheltered them from blows, while very -few deliberately meant mischief."</p> - -<p>The other is by the Rev. David Hill, a Wesleyan missionary -of much experience, who was officially employed to -inquire into the facts. Under date June 12th. 1891, he -writes:—</p> - -<p>"One thing which the sight of the house impressed on me -was the evidence which it gave of the hold on the people's -mind which the rumours as to the destruction of infant life -have gained. On the upper story, the ceiling had been -inspected by means of a ladder, which evidently had been -brought up for the purpose. On the ground floor the boards -of one of the rooms had been fired, and a large aperture -made. Below the ground floor the ventilators outside had -been torn open, as though search had been made for -missing infants, and, of course, the lath and plaster -walls in all the rooms where they might be found were -pierced."</p> - -<p>This latter view is confirmed by the Rev. Father de -Quellec, who, writing in the <cite>Missions Catholiques</cite>, describes<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_370" id="Page_370">[370]</a></span> -how, at another place, on the night of May 23rd, a dead -child, from whom the eyes had been removed, was placed on -vacant land near the Mission. A crowd assembling next -morning, cried out, "It is the European devil who has torn -out the eyes and heart of this child!" The house was -stormed, but fortunately a magistrate arrived with troops -more under command than is usual in China, and the mob -was dispersed. "But," adds the Father, "eight out of ten -believe that we take out the eyes and store them in the -cellars of the Mission."</p> - -<p>It is contended that, under such antagonistic circumstances, -rescue work should be guided by the greatest care, -for otherwise its use, to the prejudice of both missionary -efforts and European trade, by reactionaries, is <i>inevitable</i>. -Their sinister influence, once asserted, may at any moment -call into fatally destructive play, as indeed recently, the -anti-foreign feeling entertained by a large proportion of the -Chinese.</p> - -<p>That this anti-foreign feeling exists all agree. It is urged -that it must never be forgotten—for what renders it -especially serious in China, is the frequent evidence of its -being fanned from above—and that the authorities have no -efficient machinery of civil order on which reliance can be -placed. Nor is the Central Government always able to enforce -its will on distant provincial authorities, or even to -prevent their varying the orders of the Throne.</p> - -<p>At the same time, say others, the hostility may be exaggerated. -The employment of over 100,000 Chinese by -foreign residents, many in highly confidential capacities, -both in the office and the household, and as many more on -board foreign ships, tends to confirm the general verdict that -the people, in an individual sense, are civil, obliging, and -even hospitable towards the foreigner, and well-disposed -especially towards the English trader, who treats them fairly -good-humouredly, and without offending their national -prejudices. This is supported, even from Wuhu itself, for -the last Trade Report says: "The trade in goods classed -under Foreign Sundries has increased rapidly during the -past two years, and shows a gain of 70 per cent."</p> - - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Summary of British Position in China.</span></p> - -<p>46.—It remains but to summarize the position of affairs as -regards British interests in China, so far as I have been able -to grasp it.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_371" id="Page_371">[371]</a></span></p> - -<blockquote> - -<p>(<i>a</i>) That three-fourths of the foreign trade is in British -hands, and a still larger proportion of the shipping -in Chinese waters.</p> - -<p>(<i>b</i>) That British commercial firms and residents are in a -large majority among the foreign population.</p> - -<p>(<i>c</i>) That the contiguity to China of British India, Burmah, -and Hong Kong, and the large numbers of Chinese -residents in British territories, give England an -especial interest in the welfare of the Empire, and -in the gradual opening of the vast markets in the -West, South-West, and Centre.</p> - -<p>(<i>d</i>) That while British interests outweigh, in their magnitude, -variety, and extent, not only those of every -other Great Power, but those also of the whole -world, Russia upon the North and North-West, and -from her adjacent port of Vladivostock; France, her -ally, upon the South from Tonquin; and Germany -upon the coast, are anxious and watchful competitors.</p></blockquote> - - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p class="p5a"><span class="smcap">Policy of Britain.</span></p> - -<p>47.—The course of policy best calculated, under such a -condition of things, to maintain and extend British commerce -is a matter for the Electorate to decide. Those who share -the feeling of the majority in Sheffield, that the undeviating -conduct of the foreign affairs of the Empire is essential to -the expansion of foreign trade and its wealth of home employment, -will probably consider—</p> - -<blockquote> - -<p>(<i>a</i>) That the British Industrial interests at stake in China, -and also in Japan, are too great to be necessarily -linked to the comparatively trivial concerns of any -other nation.</p> - -<p>(<i>b</i>) That as they are mainly dependent upon the safety -of the resident standard bearers of British trade, -Her Majesty's ships in Eastern waters<a name="FNanchor_6_6" id="FNanchor_6_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_6_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a> should -always be sufficiently numerous and ready at any -moment to protect them, unaided, in their persons -and property.</p> - -<p>(<i>c</i>) That the trade route from Europe to Asia, and its -line of defence—Gibraltar, Malta, Cyprus, Egypt,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_372" id="Page_372">[372]</a></span> -Aden, Ceylon, Singapore, and Hong Kong—should -always be kept in British hands, and secure against -any possible attack.</p> - -<p>(<i>d</i>) That at the same time, no accession of friendly territory -being desired, and only mutuality of commerce on -equitable terms, the Emperor of China and the -Imperial Government should be enabled, by the -Queen's representatives, to feel that the support of -England will always be forthcoming in any step -for the advancement of the Chinese nation, the -development of amicable relations, and the security -of the Empire against any unwarranted maritime -aggression.</p></blockquote> - - - -<p class="p4a">MEMORANDUM UPON THE BRITISH TRADE -ROAD TO THE FAR EAST.</p> - -<blockquote> - -<p>1.—The nearest trade road from Europe to the Far East -lies through the Suez Canal, down the Red Sea, past -Perim, to Aden; thence to Ceylon; from there to -Singapore, and to Hong Kong in the China Sea.</p> - -<p>2.—As three-quarters of the external trade of both China -and Japan is in British hands; as the British residents -are nearly equal, numerically, to those of all foreign -nations combined; and as British ocean steamers are -more numerous than those of the whole world, and -eightfold those of Germany, the second on the list, it -is only fitting, independently of the possession of India, -that this trade route should always be retained, as at -the present time, in the hands of England, whose -position is greatly strengthened by the possession of -Gibraltar, Malta, and Cyprus in the Mediterranean.</p> - -<p>3.—So long as this sea road is held intact and properly defended, -Great Britain remains the dominant commercial -and naval power in the China Sea.</p> - -<p>4.—To pass Perim or Aden in the Red Sea, and so gain -access to the Indian Ocean, would be almost impossible -for any European power at war with England.</p> - -<p>5.—Singapore likewise commands, to a great extent, the -entrance to, and exit from, the China Sea.</p> - -<p>6.—Apart, though, altogether from the active power of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_373" id="Page_373">[373]</a></span> -fortifications and artillery, torpedoes and submarine -mines, there is the equally effective one of want of -coal.</p> - -<p>7.—Even supposing that Germany, Russia, Austria, or Italy -were able to coal at Port Said,—a state of affairs -which, while we occupy Egypt, would not be possible -in a state of belligerency,—their steamers could not -traverse the 7000 miles to the coast of China without -fresh fuel; and, against the will of England, this -would not be attainable.</p> - -<p>8.—France alone, by coaling at Brock, opposite Aden, and -Pondicherry, might take the outer channel of Singapore, -and so reach Saigon, a distance of 2300 miles; -or even Haiphong, in Tonquin, an additional 600 -miles; but the vessels could only steam very slowly.</p> - -<p>9.—The defensive value to the Empire of the Colonies -guarding this great trade road is therefore clear.</p> - -<p>10.—But these prosperous Colonies are also commercially -valuable to the Empire in themselves, and particularly -Ceylon, the Straits Settlements, and Hong Kong.</p> - -<p>11.—Ceylon does a trade of 6,000,000<i>l.</i> a year with the -Empire, whereof half is with the United Kingdom, -which she is now supplying with 50,000,000 lbs. of -tea annually.</p> - -<p>12.—The Straits Settlements have a population of 507,000; -and of the external trade of 178 million dollars, 78 -millions are with the Empire. There is no public -debt, and the Colony contributes (as also Ceylon and -Hong Kong) 100,000<i>l.</i> a year for its defence, which is -now, for the first time, upon a proper footing.</p> - -<p>13.—Hong Kong, ceded to the British 50 years ago, has -become a port of first-class importance. Although, -not barring the approach to the Upper China Sea, -the Yellow Sea, and the waters of Japan, it does so to -a large extent, in a practical sense owing to the coaling -difficulty.</p> - -<p>14.—The shipping trade of Hong Kong has doubled in the -past 20 years. Of 130 million tons of shipping, passing -in and out of the harbour in 1890, 7 million tons -were British, 4 million Chinese, and 2½ million foreign. -British ships numbered 5500 (an increase of 136, -and 400,000 tons in three years); foreign ships numbered -2600 (an increase of 307, and 225,000 tons), -and Chinese junks 55,600—a total of 64,000 vessels.</p> - -<p>15.—The population of Hong Kong is about 200,000, of which<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_374" id="Page_374">[374]</a></span> -10,000 are European, and the remainder Chinese. -Emigrants from China, to the number of 42,000, passed -through the port, and of these, 36,000 were bound for -places under the British flag, while 850,000 Chinese -visited the island in the course of the year.</p> - -<p>16.—The general impression of Hong Kong, in a commercial, -maritime, defensive, and picturesque sense, has been -fittingly summed up by the late Governor: "It may -be doubted whether the evidence of material and -moral achievement make, anywhere, a more forcible -appeal to eye and imagination, and whether any -other spot on the earth is thus more likely to excite, -or more fully justifies, pride in the name of Englishman."</p> - -<p>17.—Provided, therefore, the British hold firmly by this -trade route, and, in friendly alliance with China, do all -that is possible to develop mutual trade between -Burmah and the Yunnan district, there is nothing to -fear from the rivalry of any other power, for so long -as South Africa remains loyal to the Empire, the long -sea road by the Cape is absolutely impossible to any -other nation. If, however, the short route be cut off -at its base, by the British abandonment of the magnificent -mercantile position established in Egypt, not only -will the labour of ten years be thrown away, but the -whole of the gigantic trade with the East be imperilled.</p> - -<p>18.—The only foreign powers capable of injuring us, in a -naval sense, in Chinese waters are Russia and the -United States. The former has a formidable fleet, -based upon the splendid fortified harbour of Vladivostock, -and could move land forces upon Corea. The -reinforcement of the squadron from Europe should, -however, be impracticable. As regards the United -States, hostility is happily not a likely contingency; -but, in any case, the 4500 miles across the stormy -Pacific Ocean, devoid of any coaling station, unless it -be Honolulu, is a formidable barrier.</p></blockquote> - -<p class="center">C. E. HOWARD VINCENT.</p> - -<p>21, 12, 1891.</p> - - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/i_374.jpg" width="400" height="454" alt="" title="Forty Thousand Miles" /> -</div> - -<div class="add"> - -<blockquote> - -<p>"Very bright and interesting."—<cite>Morning Post.</cite></p> - -<p>"Deserves and will receive an extended popularity."—<cite>Daily Telegraph.</cite></p> - -<p>"Most charming."—<cite>Vanity Fair.</cite></p> - -<p>"Chattily and agreeably written in a pleasant and gossiping style. Open -the volumes at what chapter we may, there is something to amuse and -interest."—<cite>The Queen.</cite></p> - -<p>"There are few English ladies who have travelled as far as Mrs. Howard -Vincent, and fewer still who could render their experiences in such a -natural and interesting manner."—<cite>Figaro.</cite></p> - -<p>"An extremely fascinating book."—<cite>Sheffield Telegraph.</cite></p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p class="center">London: SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON & CO., <span class="smcap">Limited</span>,<br /> -St. Dunstan's House, Fetter Lane, Fleet Street, E.C.</p></blockquote> -</div> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<div class="add"> -<p class="p7f">WORKS</p> - -<p class="p1a">by</p> - -<p class="p8a">Colonel HOWARD VINCENT, <span class="smcap">c.b., m.p.</span></p> - -<p class="center">♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦</p> - -<p class="p5c"><span class="smcap">A POLICE CODE and MANUAL of the CRIMINAL<br /> -LAW FOR THE BRITISH EMPIRE</span>.</p> - -<p class="p3b">Preceded by an ADDRESS TO CONSTABLES by the Hon. Sir<br /> -HENRY HAWKINS, and adopted a Text-Book by nearly<br /> -every English-speaking Police Force.</p> - -<p class="center"><em>Eighth and Abridged Edition.</em> <em>Twentieth Thousand.</em></p> - -<p class="center"><strong>Price 2s.; or 2s. 2d. Post Free.</strong></p> - -<p class="p1d">CASSELL & COMPANY, <span class="smcap">Limited</span>, Ludgate Hill, London;<br /> -<em>Or of any Bookseller</em>.</p> - -<hr class="r15" /> - -<p class="p5c">THE "HOWARD VINCENT" MAP OF THE<br /> -BRITISH EMPIRE.</p> - -<p class="p5a">Showing the Possessions of the British People throughout<br /> -the World,—their Extent, Population, Trade and<br /> -Revenue, &c.</p> - -<p class="center"><em>For Public Institutions and Schools.</em> <strong>Price 1 1s. 72 in. by 63 in.</strong></p> - -<p class="center">INSCRIBED WITH THE NAME OF THE DONOR.</p> - -<p class="p1d">T. B. JOHNSTON, <span class="smcap">Geographer to the Queen</span>, EDINBURGH.</p> - -<hr class="r15" /> - -<p class="p5c">PROCEDURE D'EXTRADITION.</p> - -<p class="p5a">Five Shillings.</p> - -<p class="p1d">HACHETTE ET CIE.</p> - -<hr class="r15" /> - -<p class="p5c">THE LAW OF CRITICISM AND LIBEL.</p> - -<p class="p5a">Two Shillings and Sixpence.</p> - -<p class="p1d">EFFINGHAM WILSON.</p> - -<hr class="r15" /> - -<p class="p5c">RUSSIA'S ADVANCE EASTWARD.</p> - -<p class="p5a">Five Shillings.</p> - -<p class="p8a">ELEMENTARY MILITARY GEOGRAPHY,<br /> -RECONNOITRING, AND SKETCHING.</p> - -<p class="p5a">Two Shillings and Sixpence.</p> - -<p class="p1d">KEGAN PAUL, TRENCH, & CO.</p> -</div> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_1a" id="Page_1a">[Pg 1]</a></span></p> - -<div class="add"> -<p class="p1b"><span class="smcap">St. Dunstan's House, Fetter Lane</span>,<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 12em;"><span class="smcap">London, E.C.</span> 1892.</span></p> - - - -<h2><a name="Select_List_of_Books" id="Select_List_of_Books"></a>Select List of Books<br /> -in all Departments of<br /> -Literature</h2> - - -<p class="p1b">PUBLISHED BY</p> - -<p class="p6">Sampson Low, Marston & Company, Ld.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<blockquote> -<p>ABBEY and PARSONS, <em>Quiet -Life</em>, from drawings; motive by -Austin Dobson, 31<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p><span class="smcap">ABBOTT, Charles C.</span>, <em>Waste -Land Wanderings</em>, 10<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p><span class="smcap">ABERDEEN, Earl of.</span> See -Prime Ministers.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">ABNEY, Capt.</span>, <em>Thebes and its -Greater Temples</em>, 40 photos. 63<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— and CUNNINGHAM, -<em>Pioneers of the Alps</em>, new ed. 21<em>s.</em></p> - -<p><em>About in the World.</em> See Gentle -Life Series.</p> - -<p>—— <em>Some Fellows</em>, from my -note-book, by "an Eton boy," -2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em>; new edit. 1<em>s.</em></p> - -<p><span class="smcap">ADAMS, Charles K.</span>, <em>Historical -Literature</em>, 12<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>ADDISON, <em>Sir Roger de Coverley</em>, -from the "Spectator," 6<em>s.</em></p> - -<p><span class="smcap">AGASSIZ, Alex.</span>, <em>Three Cruises -of the "Blake,"</em> illust. 2 vols. 42<em>s.</em></p> - -<p><span class="smcap">ALBERT, Prince.</span> See Bayard -Series.</p> - -<p>ALCOTT, L. M. <em>Jo's Boys</em>, -a sequel to "Little Men," 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Life, Letters and Journals</em>, -by Ednah D. Cheney, 6<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Lulu's Library</em>, a story -for girls, 3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Old fashioned Thanksgiving -Day</em>, 3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Proverb Stories</em>, 3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>ALCOTT, L. M., <em>Recollections -of my Childhood's Days</em>, 3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Silver Pitchers</em>, 3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Spinning-wheel Stories</em>, 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— See also Low's Standard -Series and Rose Library.</p> - -<p>ALDAM, W. H., <em>Flies and Fly-making</em>, -with actual specimens on -cardboard, 63<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>ALDEN, W. L. See Low's -Standard Series.</p> - -<p>ALFORD, <span class="smcap">Lady Marian</span>, -<em>Needlework as Art</em>, 21<em>s.</em>; 1. p. 84<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>ALGER, J. G., <em>Englishmen in -the French Revolution</em>, 7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p><em>Amateur Angler in Dore Dale</em>, -a three weeks' holiday, by E. M. -l<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em>, 1<em>s.</em> and 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>ANDERSEN, H. C., <em>Fairy -Tales</em>, illust. in colour by E. V. B. -25<em>s.</em>, new edit. 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Fairy Tales</em>, illust. by -Scandinavian artists, 6<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>ANDERSON, W., <em>Pictorial -Arts of Japan</em>, 4 parts, 168<em>s.</em>; -artist's proofs, 252<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>ANDRES, <em>Varnishes, Lacquers, -Siccatives, & Sealing-wax</em>, 12<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p><em>Angler's strange Experiences</em>, by -Cotswold Isys, new edit., 3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>ANNESLEY, C., <em>Standard -Opera Glass</em>, the plots of eighty -operas, 3rd edit., 2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_2a" id="Page_2a">[Pg 2]</a></span></p> - -<p><em>Annual American Catalogue of -Books</em>, 1886-89, each 10<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em>, half -morocco, 14<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— 1890, cloth, 15<em>s.</em>, half -morocco, cloth sides, 18<em>s.</em></p> - -<p><em>Antipodean Notes</em>; a nine -months' tour, by Wanderer, 7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>APPLETON, <em>European Guide</em>, -new edit., 2 parts, 10<em>s.</em> each.</p> - -<p>ARCHER, W., <em>English Dramatists -of To-day</em>, 8<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>ARLOT'S <em>Coach Painting</em>, from -the French by A. A. Fesquet, -6<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>ARMYTAGE, <span class="smcap">Hon. Mrs.</span>, <em>Wars -of Queen Victoria's Reign</em>, 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>ARNOLD, E., <em>Birthday Book</em>; -by Kath. L. and Constance -Arnold, 4<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— E. L. L., <em>Summer Holiday -in Scandinavia</em>, 10<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>On the Indian Hills, -Coffee Planting, &c.</em>, 2 vols. 24<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— R., <em>Ammonia and Ammonium -Compounds</em>, illust. 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p><em>Artistic Japan</em>, text, woodcuts, -and coloured plates, vols. I.-VI., -15<em>s.</em> each.</p> - -<p>ASBJRNSEN, P. C., <em>Round -the Yule Log</em>, 7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em>; new edit. 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>ASHE, R. P., <em>Two Kings of -Uganda</em>; six years in Eastern -Equatorial Africa, 6<em>s.</em>; new edit. -3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Uganda, England's latest -Charge</em>, stiff cover, 1<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>ASHTON, F. T., <em>Designing -fancy Cotton and Woollen Cloths</em>, -illust. 50<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>ATCHISON, C. C., <em>Winter -Cruise in Summer Seas</em>; "how I -found" health, 16<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>ATKINSON, J. B. <em>Overbeck.</em> -See Great Artists.</p> - -<p>ATTWELL, <em>Italian Masters</em>, -especially in the National Gallery, -3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>AUDSLEY, G. A., <em>Chromolithography</em>, -44 coloured plates -and text, 63<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Ornamental Arts of Japan</em>, -2 vols. morocco, 23<em>l.</em> 2<em>s.</em>; four -parts, 15<em>l.</em> 15<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— W. and G. A., <em>Ornament -in all Styles</em>, 31<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>AUERBACH, B., <em>Brigitta</em> (B. -Tauchnitz), 2<em>s.</em>; sewed, 1<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>On the Height</em> (B. -Tauchnitz), 3 vols. 6<em>s.</em>; sewed, -4<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Spinoza</em> (B. Tauchnitz), -2 vols. 4<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>AUSTRALIA. See F. Countries.</p> - -<p>AUSTRIA. See F. Countries.</p> - -<p><em>Autumn Cruise in the gean</em>, -by one of the party. See "Fitzpatrick."</p> - -<p>BACH. See Great Musicians.</p> - -<p>BACON. See English Philosophers.</p> - -<p>—— <span class="smcap">Delia</span>, <em>Biography</em>, 10<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>BADDELEY, <span class="smcap">W. St. Clair</span>, -<em>Love's Vintage</em>; sonnets and -lyrics, 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Tchay and Chianti</em>, a -short visit to Russia and Finland, -5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Travel-tide</em>, 7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>BAKER, <span class="smcap">James</span>, <em>John Westacott</em>, -new edit. 6<em>s.</em> and 3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>BALDWIN, J., <em>Story of Siegfried</em>, -illust. 6<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Story of Roland</em>, illust. 6<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Story of the Golden Age</em>, -illust. 6<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— J. D., <em>Ancient America</em>, -illust. 10<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p><em>Ballad Stories.</em> See Bayard -Series.</p> - -<p><em>Ballads of the Cid</em>, edited by -Rev. Gerrard Lewis, 3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>BALLANTYNE, T., <em>Essays.</em> -See Bayard Series.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_3a" id="Page_3a">[Pg 3]</a></span></p> - -<p>BALLIN, <span class="smcap">Ada S.</span>, <em>Science of -Dress</em>, illust. 6<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>BAMFORD, A. J., <em>Turbans -and Tails</em>, 7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>BANCROFT, G., <em>History of -America</em>, new edit. 6 vols. 73<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p><em>Barbizon Painters</em>, by J. W. -Mollett—I. Millet, T. Rousseau, -and Diaz, 3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em> II. Corot, -Daubigny and Dupr, 3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em>; -the two in one vol. 7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>BARING-GOULD. See Foreign -Countries.</p> - -<p>BARLOW, A., <em>Weaving</em>, new -edit. 25<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— P. W., <em>Kaipara, New Z.</em>, 6<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— W., <em>Matter and Force</em>, -12<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>BARRETT. See Gr. Musicians.</p> - -<p>BARROW, J., <em>Mountain -Ascents</em>, new edit. 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>BASSETT, <em>Legends of the Sea</em>, -7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>BATHGATE, A., <em>Waitaruna, -New Zealand</em>, 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p><em>Bayard Series</em>, edited by the -late J. Hain Friswell; flexible -cloth extra, 2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em> each.</p> - -<blockquote><p>Chevalier Bayard, by Berville.<br /> -De Joinville, St. Louis.<br /> -Essays of Cowley.<br /> -Abdallah, by Laboullaye.<br /> -Table-Talk of Napoleon.<br /> -Vathek, by Beckford.<br /> -Cavalier and Puritan Songs.<br /> -Words of Wellington.<br /> -Johnson's Rasselas.<br /> -Hazlitt's Round Table.<br /> -Browne's Religio Medici.<br /> -Ballad Stories of the Affections, by Robert Buchanan.<br /> -Coleridge's Christabel, &c.<br /> -Chesterfield's Letters.<br /> -Essays in Mosaic, by T. Ballantyne.<br /> -My Uncle Toby.<br /> -Rochefoucauld, Reflections.<br /> -Socrates, Memoirs from Xenophon.<br /> -Prince Albert's Precepts.</p></blockquote> - -<p>BEACONSFIELD, <em>Public Life</em>, -3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— See also Prime Ministers.</p> - -<p>BEAUGRAND, <em>Young Naturalists</em>, -new edit. 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>BECKER, A. L., <em>First German -Book</em>, 1<em>s.</em>; <em>Exercises</em>, 1<em>s.</em>; <em>Key to -both</em>, 2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em>; <em>German Idioms</em>, -1<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>BECKFORD. See Bayard Series.</p> - -<p>BEECHER, H. W., <em>Biography</em>, -new edit. 10<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>BEETHOVEN. See Great -Musicians.</p> - -<p>BEHNKE, E., <em>Child's Voice</em>, -3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>BELL, <em>Obeah, Witchcraft in the -West Indies</em>, 2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>BELLENGER & WITCOMB'S -<em>French and English Conversations</em>, -new edit. Paris, bds. 2<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>BENJAMIN, <em>Atlantic Islands -as health, &c., resorts</em>. 16<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>BERLIOZ. See Gr. Musicians.</p> - -<p>BERVILLE. See Bayard Series.</p> - -<p>BIART, <em>Young Naturalist</em>, -new edit. 7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Involuntary Voyage</em>, 7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em> -and 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Two Friends</em>, translated by -Mary de Hauteville, 7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>See also Low's Standard Books.</p> - -<p>BICKERSTETH, <span class="smcap">Ashley</span>, -B.A., <em>Outlines of Roman History</em>, -2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— E. H., Exon., <em>Clergyman -in his Home</em>, 1<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>From Year to Year</em>, -original poetical pieces, morocco -or calf, 10<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em>; padded roan, 6<em>s.</em>; -roan, 5<em>s.</em>; cloth, 3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Hymnal Companion</em>, full -lists post free.</p> - -<p>—— <em>Master's Home Call</em>, new -edit. 1<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Octave of Hymns</em>, sewn, 3<em>d.</em>, -with music, 1<em>s.</em></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_4a" id="Page_4a">[Pg 4]</a></span></p> - -<p>BICKERSTETH, E. H., Exon., -<em>Reef, Parables</em>, &c., illust. 7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em> -and 2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Shadowed Home</em>, n. ed. 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>BIGELOW, <span class="smcap">John</span>, <em>France and -the Confederate Navy</em>, an international -episode, 7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>BILBROUGH, <em>'Twixt France -and Spain</em>, 7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>BILLROTH, <em>Care of the Sick</em>, 6<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>BIRD, F. J., <em>Dyer's Companion</em>, -42<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— F. S., <em>Land of Dykes and -Windmills</em>, 12<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— H. E., <em>Chess Practice</em>, 2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>BISHOP. See Nursing Record -Series.</p> - -<p>BLACK, ROBERT, <em>Horse Racing -in France</em>, 14<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— W., <em>Donald Ross of -Heimra</em>, 3 vols. 31<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— Novels, new and uniform -edition in monthly vols. 2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em> ea.</p> - -<p>—— See Low's Standard Novels.</p> - -<p>BLACKBURN, C. F., <em>Catalogue -Titles, Index Entries, &c.</em> 14<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— H., <em>Art in the Mountains</em>, -new edit. 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Artists and Arabs</em>, 7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Breton Folk</em>, new issue, -10<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Harz Mountains</em>, 12<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Normandy Picturesque</em>, -16<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Pyrenees</em>, illust. by Gustave -Dor, new edit. 7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>BLACKMORE, R. D., <em>Georgics</em>, -4<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em>; cheap edit. 1<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Lorna Doone</em>, <em>dit. de luxe</em>, -35<em>s.</em>, 31<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em> & 21<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Lorna Doone</em>, illust. by -W. Small, 7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Springhaven</em>, illust. 12<em>s.</em>; -new edit. 7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em> & 6<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— See also Low's Standard -Novels.</p> - -<p>BLAIKIE, <em>How to get Strong</em>, -new edit. 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Sound Bodies for our Boys -and Girls</em>, 2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>BLOOMFIELD. See Choice -Editions.</p> - -<p><em>Bobby, a Story</em>, by Vesper, 1<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>BOCK, <em>Head Hunters of Borneo</em>, -36<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Temples & Elephants</em>, 21<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>BONAPARTE, <span class="smcap">Mad. Patterson</span>, -<em>Life</em>, 10<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>BONWICK, <span class="smcap">James</span>, <em>Colonial -Days</em>, 2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Colonies</em>, 1<em>s.</em> ea.; 1 vol. 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Daily Life of the Tasmanians</em>, -12<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>First Twenty Years of -Australia</em>, 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Last of the Tasmanians</em>, 16<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Port Philip</em>, 21<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Lost Tasmanian Race</em>, 4<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>BOSANQUET, C., <em>Blossoms -from the King's Garden</em>, 6<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Jehoshaphat</em>, 1<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Lenten Meditations</em>, I. -1<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em>; II. 2<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Tender Grass for Lambs</em>, -2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>BOULTON, <em>N. W. Rebellions</em>, -Canadian life, 9<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>BOURKE, <em>On the Border with -Crook</em>, illust., roy. 8vo, 21<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Snake Dance of Arizona</em>, 21<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>BOUSSENARD. See Low's -Standard Books.</p> - -<p>BOWEN, F., <em>Modern Philosophy</em>, -new ed. 16<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>BOWER. See English Philosophers.</p> - -<p>—— <em>Law of Electric Lighting</em>, -12<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>BOYESEN, H. H., <em>Against -Heavy Odds</em>, 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>History of Norway</em>, 7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_5a" id="Page_5a">[Pg 5]</a></span></p> - -<p>BOYESEN, <em>Modern Vikings, 6s</em>.</p> - -<p><em>Boy's Froissart</em>, <em>King Arthur</em>, -<em>Mabinogian</em>, <em>Percy</em>, see "Lanier."</p> - -<p>BRADSHAW, <em>New Zealand -as it is</em>, 12<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>New Zealand of To-day</em>, 14<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>BRANNT, <em>Fats and Oils</em>, 35<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Soap and Candles</em>, 35<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Vinegar, Acetates</em>, 25<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Distillation of Alcohol</em>, -12<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Metal Worker's Receipts</em>, -12<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Metallic Alloys</em>, 12<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— and WAHL, <em>Techno-Chemical -Receipt Book</em>, 10<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>BRASSEY, <span class="smcap">Lady</span>, <em>Tahiti</em>, 21<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>BRMONT. See Low's Standard -Novels.</p> - -<p>BRETON, <span class="smcap">Jules</span>, <em>Life of an -Artist</em>, an autobiography, 7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>BRISSE, <em>Menus and Recipes</em>, -new edit. 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p><em>Britons in Brittany</em>, by G. H. F. -2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>BROCK-ARNOLD. See Great -Artists.</p> - -<p>BROOKS, <span class="smcap">Noah</span>, <em>Boy Settlers</em>, -6<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>BROWN, A. J., <em>Rejected of -Men</em>, 3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— A. S. <em>Madeira and Canary -Islands for Invalids</em>, 2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Northern Atlantic</em>, for -travellers, 4<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <span class="smcap">Robert</span>. See Low's -Standard Novels.</p> - -<p>BROWNE, <span class="smcap">Lennox</span>, and -BEHNKE, <em>Voice, Song, & Speech</em>, -15<em>s.</em>; new edit. 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Voice Use</em>, 3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <span class="smcap">Sir T.</span> See Bayard Series.</p> - -<p>BRYCE, G., <em>Manitoba</em>, 7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Short History of the -Canadian People</em>, 7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>BUCHANAN, R. See Bayard -Series.</p> - -<p>BULKELEY, <span class="smcap">Owen T.</span>, <em>Lesser -Antilles</em>, 2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>BUNYAN. See Low's Standard -Series.</p> - -<p>BURDETT-COUTTS, <em>Brookfield -Stud</em>, 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>BURGOYNE, <em>Operations in -Egypt</em>, 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>BURNABY, F. See Low's -Standard Library.</p> - -<p>—— <span class="smcap">Mrs.</span>, <em>High Alps in Winter</em>, -14<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>BURNLEY, <span class="smcap">James</span>, <em>History of -Wool</em>, 21<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>BUTLER, <span class="smcap">Col. Sir W. F.</span>, -<em>Campaign of the Cataracts</em>, 18<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Red Cloud</em>, 7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em> & 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— See also Low's Standard -Books.</p> - -<p>BUXTON, <span class="smcap">Ethel M. Wilmot</span>, -<em>Wee Folk</em>, 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— See also Illust. Text Books.</p> - -<p>BYNNER. See Low's Standard -Novels.</p> - -<p>CABLE, G. W., <em>Bonaventure</em>, 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>CADOGAN, <span class="smcap">Lady A.</span>, <em>Drawing-room -Comedies</em>, illust. 10<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em>, -acting edit. 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Illustrated Games of -Patience</em>, col. diagrams, 12<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>New Games of Patience</em>, -with coloured diagrams, 12<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>CAHUN. See Low's Standard -Books.</p> - -<p>CALDECOTT, <span class="smcap">Randolph</span>, -<em>Memoir</em>, by H. Blackburn, new -edit. 7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em> and 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Sketches</em>, pict. bds. 2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>CALL, <span class="smcap">Annie Payson</span>, <em>Power -through Repose</em>, 3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>CALLAN, H., M.A., <em>Wanderings -on Wheel and Foot through -Europe</em>, 1<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p><em>Cambridge Trifles</em>, 2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_6a" id="Page_6a">[Pg 6]</a></span></p> - -<p><em>Cambridge Staircase</em>, 2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>CAMPBELL, <span class="smcap">Lady Colin</span>, -<em>Book of the Running Brook</em>, 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— T. See Choice Editions.</p> - -<p>CANTERBURY, <span class="smcap">Archbishop</span>. -See Preachers.</p> - -<p>CARLETON, <span class="smcap">Will</span>, <em>City -Ballads</em>, illust. 12<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>City Legends</em>, ill. 12<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Farm Festivals</em>, ill. 12<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— See also Rose Library.</p> - -<p>CARLYLE, <em>Irish Journey in -1849</em>, 7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>CARNEGIE, <span class="smcap">Andrew</span>, <em>American -Four-in-hand in Britain</em>, -10<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em>; also 1<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Round the World</em>, 10<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Triumphant Democracy</em>, -6<em>s.</em>; new edit. 1<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em>; paper, 1<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>CAROV, <em>Story without an -End</em>, illust. by E. V. B., 7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p><em>Celebrated Racehorses</em>, 4 vols. -126<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>CLIRE. See Low's Standard -Books.</p> - -<p><em>Changed Cross, &c.</em>, poems, 2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p><em>Chant-book Companion to the -Common Prayer</em>, 2<em>s.</em>; organ ed. 4<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>CHAPIN, <em>Mountaineering in -Colorado</em>, 10<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>CHAPLIN, J. G., <em>Bookkeeping</em>, -2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>CHATTOCK, <em>Notes on Etching</em> -new edit. 10<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>CHERUBINI. See Great -Musicians.</p> - -<p>CHESTERFIELD. See Bayard -Series.</p> - -<blockquote><p class="p2"><em>Choice Editions of choice books</em>, -illustrated by C. W. Cope, R.A., -T. Creswick, R.A., E. Duncan, -Birket Foster, J. C. Horsley, -A.R.A., G. Hicks, R. Redgrave, -R.A., C. Stonehouse, F. Tayler, -G. Thomas, H. G. Townsend, -E. H. Wehnert, Harrison Weir, -&c., cloth extra gilt, gilt edges, -2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em> each; re-issue, 1<em>s.</em> each.</p></blockquote> - -<blockquote><p> -Bloomfield's Farmer's Boy.<br /> -Campbell's Pleasures of Hope.<br /> -Coleridge's Ancient Mariner.<br /> -Goldsmith's Deserted Village.<br /> -Goldsmith's Vicar of Wakefield.<br /> -Gray's Elegy in a Churchyard.<br /> -Keats' Eve of St. Agnes.<br /> -Milton's Allegro.<br /> -Poetry of Nature, by H. Weir.<br /> -Rogers' Pleasures of Memory.<br /> -Shakespeare's Songs and Sonnets.<br /> -Elizabethan Songs and Sonnets.<br /> -Tennyson's May Queen.<br /> -Wordsworth's Pastoral Poems.<br /> -</p></blockquote> - -<p>CHREIMAN, <em>Physical Culture -of Women</em>, 1<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>CLARK, A., <em>A Dark Place of -the Earth</em>, 6<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— Mrs. K. M., <em>Southern -Cross Fairy Tale</em>, 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>CLARKE, C. C., <em>Writers, -and Letters</em>, 10<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <span class="smcap">Percy</span>, <em>Three Diggers</em>, 6<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Valley Council</em>; from T. -Bateman's Journal, 6<em>s.</em></p> - -<p><em>Classified Catalogue of English-printed -Educational Works</em>, 3rd -edit. 6<em>s.</em></p> - -<p><em>Claude le Lorrain.</em> See Great -Artists.</p> - -<p>CLOUGH, A. H., <em>Plutarch's -Lives</em>, one vol. 18<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>COLERIDGE, C. R., <em>English -Squire</em>, 6<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— S. T. See Choice Editions -and Bayard Series.</p> - -<p>COLLINGWOOD, H. See -Low's Standard Books.</p> - -<p>COLLINSON, Adm. <span class="smcap">Sir R.</span>, -<em>H.M.S. Enterprise in Search of -Franklin</em>, 14<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>CONDER, J., <em>Flowers of Japan; -Decoration</em>, coloured Japanese -Plates, 42<em>s.</em> nett.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_7a" id="Page_7a">[Pg 7]</a></span></p> - -<p>CORREGGIO. See Great -Artists.</p> - -<p>COWLEY. See Bayard Series.</p> - -<p>COX, <span class="smcap">David</span>. See Great Artists.</p> - -<p>COZZENS, F., <em>American -Yachts</em>, pfs. 21<em>l.</em>; art. pfs. 31<em>l.</em> 10<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— See also Low's Standard -Books.</p> - -<p>CRADDOCK. See Low's -Standard Novels.</p> - -<p>CREW, B. J., <em>Petroleum</em>, 21<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>CRISTIANI, R. S., <em>Soap and -Candles</em>, 42<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Perfumery</em>, 25<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>CROKER, <span class="smcap">Mrs. B. M.</span> See -Low's Standard Novels.</p> - -<p>CROUCH, A. P., <em>Glimpses of -Feverland</em> (West Africa), 6<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>On a Surf-bound Coast</em>, -7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em>; new edit. 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>CRUIKSHANK, G. See -Great Artists.</p> - -<p>CUDWORTH, W., <em>Abraham -Sharp</em>, 26<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>CUMBERLAND, <span class="smcap">Stuart</span>, -<em>Thought-reader's Thoughts</em>, 10<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— See also Low's Standard -Novels.</p> - -<p>CUNDALL, F. See Great -Artists.</p> - -<p>—— J., <em>Shakespeare</em>, 3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em>, -5<em>s.</em> and 2<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>CURTIN, J., <em>Myths of the Russians</em>, -10<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>CURTIS, C. B., <em>Velazquez and -Murillo</em>, with etchings, 31<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em> -and 63<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>CUSHING, W., <em>Anonyms</em>, 2 -vols. 52<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Initials and Pseudonyms</em>, -25<em>s.</em>; ser. II., 21<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>CUTCLIFFE, H. C., <em>Trout -Fishing</em>, new edit. 3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>DALY, <span class="smcap">Mrs. D.</span>, <em>Digging, -Squatting, &c., in N. S. Australia</em>, -12<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>D'ANVERS, N., <em>Architecture -and Sculpture</em>, new edit. 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Elementary Art, Architecture, -Sculpture, Painting</em>, new -edit. 10<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Elementary History of -Music</em>, 2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Painting</em>, by F. Cundall, -6<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>DAUDET, A., <em>My Brother -Jack</em>, 7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em>; also 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Port Tarascon</em>, by H. -James, 7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em>; new edit. 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>DAVIES, C., <em>Modern Whist</em>, -4<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>DAVIS, C. T., <em>Bricks, Tiles, -&c.</em>, new edit. 25<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Manufacture of Leather</em>, -52<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Manufacture of Paper</em>, 28<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Steam Boiler Incrustation</em>, -8<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— G. B., <em>International Law</em>, -10<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>DAWIDOWSKY, <em>Glue, Gelatine, -&c.</em>, 12<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p><em>Day of my Life</em>, by an Eton boy, -new edit. 2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em>; also 1<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>DE JOINVILLE. See Bayard -Series.</p> - -<p>DE LEON, <span class="smcap">Edwin</span>, <em>Under the -Stars and Under the Crescent</em>, -2 vols. 12<em>s.</em>; new edit. 6<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>DELLA ROBBIA. See Great -Artists.</p> - -<p><em>Denmark and Iceland.</em> See -Foreign Countries.</p> - -<p>DENNETT, R. E., <em>Seven Years -among the Fjort</em>, 7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>DERRY (Bishop of). See -Preachers.</p> - -<p>DE WINT. See Great Artists.</p> - -<p>DIGGLE, J. W., <em>Bishop Fraser's -Lancashire Life</em>, new edit. -12<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em>; popular ed. 3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Sermons for Daily Life</em>, 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_8a" id="Page_8a">[Pg 8]</a></span></p> - -<p>DOBSON, <span class="smcap">Austin</span>, <em>Hogarth</em>, -with a bibliography, &c., of -prints, illust. 24<em>s.</em>; l. paper 52<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— See also Great Artists.</p> - -<p>DODGE, <span class="smcap">Mrs.</span>, <em>Hans Brinker, -the Silver Skates</em>, new edit. 5<em>s.</em>, -3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em>, 2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em>; text only, 1<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>DONKIN, J. G., <em>Trooper and -Redskin</em>; N. W. mounted police, -Canada, 8<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>DONNELLY, <span class="smcap">Ignatius</span>, <em>Atlantis, -the Antediluvian World</em>, new -edit. 12<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Csar's Column</em>, authorized -edition, 3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Doctor Huguet</em>, 3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Great Cryptogram</em>, Bacon's -Cipher in Shakespeare, 2 vols. -30<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Ragnarok: the Age of -Fire and Gravel</em>, 12<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>DORE, <span class="smcap">Gustave</span>, <em>Life and Reminiscences</em>, -by Blanche Roosevelt, -fully illust. 24<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>DOS PASSOS, J. R., <em>Law of -Stockbrokers and Stock Exchanges</em>, -35<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>DOUDNEY, <span class="smcap">Sarah</span>, <em>Godiva -Durleigh</em>, 3 vols. 31<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>DOUGALL, J. D., <em>Shooting -Appliances, Practice, &c.</em>, 10<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em>; -new edit. 7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>DOUGHTY, H. M., <em>Friesland -Meres and the Netherlands</em>, new -edit. illust. 10<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>DOVETON, F. B., <em>Poems and -Snatches of Songs</em>, 5<em>s.</em>; new edit. -3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>DU CHAILLU, <span class="smcap">Paul</span>. See -Low's Standard Books.</p> - -<p>DUNCKLEY ("Verax.") See -Prime Ministers.</p> - -<p>DUNDERDALE, <span class="smcap">George</span>, -<em>Prairie and Bush</em>, 6<em>s.</em></p> - -<p><em>Drer.</em> See Great Artists.</p> - -<p>DYKES, J. <span class="smcap">Oswald</span>. See -Preachers.</p> - -<p><em>Echoes from the Heart</em>, 3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>EDEN, C. H. See Foreign -Countries.</p> - -<p>EDMONDS, C., <em>Poetry of the -Anti-Jacobin</em>, new edit. 7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em> -and 21<em>s.</em></p> - -<p><em>Educational Catalogue.</em> See -Classified Catalogue.</p> - -<p>EDWARDS, <em>American Steam -Engineer</em>, 12<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Modern Locomotive Engines</em>, -12<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Steam Engineer's Guide</em>, -12<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <span class="smcap">H. Sutherland.</span> See -Great Musicians.</p> - -<p>—— M. B., <em>Dream of Millions, -&c.</em>, 1<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— See Low's Standard Novels.</p> - -<p>EGGLESTON, G. <span class="smcap">Cary</span>, <em>Juggernaut</em>, -6<em>s.</em></p> - -<p><em>Egypt.</em> See Foreign Countries.</p> - -<p><em>Elizabethan Songs.</em> See Choice -Editions.</p> - -<p>EMERSON, <span class="smcap">Dr.</span> P. H., <em>East -Coast Yarns</em>, 1<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>English Idylls</em>, new ed. 2<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Naturalistic Photography</em>, -new edit. 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Pictures of East Anglian -Life</em>; plates and vignettes, 105<em>s.</em> -and 147<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— and GOODALL, <em>Life on -the Norfolk Broads</em>, plates, 126<em>s.</em> -and 210<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Wild Life on a Tidal -Water</em>, copper plates, ord. edit. -25<em>s.</em>; <em>dit. de luxe</em>, 63<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— R. W., by G. W. COOKE, -8<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Birthday Book</em>, 3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>In Concord</em>, a memoir, -7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - - -<p><em>English Catalogue</em>, 1863-71, -42<em>s.</em>; 1872-80, 42<em>s.</em>; 1881-9, -52<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em>; 5<em>s.</em> yearly.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_9a" id="Page_9a">[Pg 9]</a></span></p> - -<p><em>English Catalogue, Index vol.</em> -1837-56, 26<em>s.</em>; 1856-76, 42<em>s.</em>; -1874-80, 18<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Etchings</em>, vol. v. 45<em>s.</em>; vi., -25<em>s.</em>; vii., 25<em>s.</em>; viii., 42<em>s.</em></p> - -<p><em>English Philosophers</em>, edited by -E. B. Ivan Mller, M.A., 3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em> -each.</p> - -<blockquote><p>Bacon, by Fowler.<br /> -Hamilton, by Monck.<br /> -Hartley and James Mill, by Bower.<br /> -Shaftesbury & Hutcheson; Fowler.<br /> -Adam Smith, by J. A. Farrer.</p></blockquote> - -<p>ERCKMANN-CHATRIAN. -See Low's Standard Books.</p> - -<p>ERICHSON, <em>Life</em>, by W. C. -Church, 2 vols. 24<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>ESMARCH, F., <em>Handbook of -Surgery</em>, 24<em>s.</em></p> - -<p><em>Essays on English Writers.</em> -See Gentle Life Series.</p> - -<p>EVANS, G. E., <em>Repentance of -Magdalene Despar, &c.</em>, poems, -5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— S. & F., <em>Upper Ten, a -story</em>, 1<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— W. E., <em>Songs of the Birds</em>, -n. ed. 6<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>EVELYN, J., <em>An Inca Queen</em>, -5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <span class="smcap">John</span>, <em>Life of Mrs. Godolphin</em>, -7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>EVES, C. W., <em>West Indies</em>, -n. ed. 7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>FAIRBAIRN, A. M. See -Preachers.</p> - -<p><em>Familiar Words.</em> See Gentle -Life Series.</p> - -<p>FARINI, G. A., <em>Kalahari -Desert</em>, 21<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>FARRAR, C. S., <em>History of -Sculpture, &c.</em>, 6<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <span class="smcap">Maurice</span>, <em>Minnesota</em>, 6<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>FAURIEL, <em>Last Days of the -Consulate</em>, 10<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>FAY, T., <em>Three Germanys</em>, 2 -vols. 35<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>FEILDEN, H. <span class="smcap">St.</span> J., <em>Some -Public Schools</em>, 2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— Mrs., <em>My African Home</em>, -7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>FENN, G. <span class="smcap">Manville</span>. See -Low's Standard Books.</p> - -<p>FENNELL, J. G., <em>Book of the -Roach</em>, n. ed. 2<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>FFORDE, B., <em>Subaltern, Policeman, -and the Little Girl</em>, 1<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Trotter, a Poona Mystery</em>, -1<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>FIELD, <span class="smcap">Maunsell</span> B., <em>Memories</em>, -10<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>FIELDS, <span class="smcap">James</span> T., <em>Memoirs</em>, -12<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Yesterdays with Authors</em>, -16<em>s.</em>; also 10<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p><em>Figure Painters of Holland.</em> -See Great Artists.</p> - -<p>FINCK, <span class="smcap">Henry</span> T., <em>Pacific -Coast Scenic Tour</em>, 10<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>FITCH, <span class="smcap">Lucy</span>. See Nursing -Record Series, 1<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>FITZGERALD. See Foreign -Countries.</p> - -<p>—— <span class="smcap">Percy</span>, <em>Book Fancier</em>, 5<em>s.</em> -and 12<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>FITZPATRICK, T., <em>Autumn -Cruise in the gean</em>, 10<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Transatlantic Holiday</em>, -10<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>FLEMING, S., <em>England and -Canada</em>, 6<em>s.</em></p> - -<p><em>Foreign Countries and British -Colonies</em>, descriptive handbooks -edited by F. S. Pulling, M.A. -Each volume is the work of a -writer who has special acquaintance -with the subject, 3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<blockquote><p>Australia, by Fitzgerald.<br /> -Austria-Hungary, by Kay.<br /> -Denmark and Iceland, by E. C. Ott.<br /> -Egypt, by S. L. Poole.<br /> -France, by Miss Roberts.<br /> -Germany, by L. Sergeant.<br /><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10a" id="Page_10a">[Pg 10]</a></span> -Greece, by S. Baring Gould.<br /> -Japan, by Mossman.<br /> -Peru, by R. Markham.<br /> -Russia, by Morfill.<br /> -Spain, by Webster.<br /> -Sweden and Norway, by Woods.<br /> -West Indies, by C. H. Eden.</p></blockquote> - -<p>FOREMAN, J., <em>Philippine -Islands</em>, 21<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>FOTHERINGHAM, L. M., -<em>Nyassaland</em>, 7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>FOWLER, <em>Japan, China, and -India</em>, 10<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>FRA ANGELICO. See Great -Artists.</p> - -<p>FRA BARTOLOMMEO, ALBERTINELLI, -and ANDREA -DEL SARTO. See Great Artists.</p> - -<p>FRANC, <span class="smcap">Maud Jeanne</span>, <em>Beatrice -Melton</em>, 4<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Emily's Choice</em>, n. ed. 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Golden Gifts</em>, 4<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Hall's Vineyard</em>, 4<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Into the Light</em>, 4<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>John's Wife</em>, 4<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Little Mercy, for better, -for worse</em>, 4<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Marian, a Tale</em>, n. ed. 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Master of Ralston</em>, 4<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Minnie's Mission, a Temperance -Tale</em>, 4<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>No longer a Child</em>, 4<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Silken Cords and Iron -Fetters, a Tale</em>, 4<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Two Sides to Every Question</em>, -4<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Vermont Vale</em>, 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p><em>A plainer edition is published at</em> -2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p><em>France.</em> See Foreign Countries.</p> - -<p>FRANCIS, F., <em>War, Waves, -and Wanderings</em>, 2 vols. 24<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— See also Low's Standard -Series.</p> - -<p><em>Frank's Ranche; or, My Holiday -in the Rockies</em>, n. ed. 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>FRANKEL, <span class="smcap">Julius</span>, <em>Starch -Glucose, &c.</em>, 18<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>FRASER, <span class="smcap">Bishop</span>, <em>Lancashire -Life</em>, n. ed. 12<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em>; popular ed. -3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>FREEMAN, J., <em>Melbourne Life, -lights and shadows</em>, 6<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>FRENCH, F., <em>Home Fairies and -Heart Flowers</em>, illust. 24<em>s.</em></p> - -<p><em>French and English Birthday -Book</em>, by Kate D. Clark, 7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p><em>French Revolution, Letters from -Paris</em>, translated, 10<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p><em>Fresh Woods and Pastures New</em>, -by the Author of "An Angler's -Days," 5<em>s.</em>, 1<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em>, 1<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>FRIEZE, <em>Dupr, Florentine -Sculptor</em>, 7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>FRISWELL, J. H. See Gentle -Life Series.</p> - -<p><em>Froissart for Boys</em>, by Lanier, -new ed. 7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>FROUDE, J. A. See Prime -Ministers.</p> - -<p><em>Gainsborough and Constable.</em> -See Great Artists.</p> - -<p>GASPARIN, <em>Sunny Fields and -Shady Woods</em>, 6<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>GEFFCKEN, <em>British Empire</em>, -7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p><em>Generation of Judges</em>, n. e. 7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p><em>Gentle Life Series</em>, edited by J. -Hain Friswell, sm. 8vo. 6<em>s.</em> per -vol.; calf extra, 10<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em> ea.; 16mo, -2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em>, except when price is given.</p> - -<blockquote><p>Gentle Life.<br /> -About in the World.<br /> -Like unto Christ.<br /> -Familiar Words, 6<em>s.</em>; also 3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em><br /> -Montaigne's Essays.<br /> -Sidney's Arcadia, 6<em>s.</em><br /> -Gentle Life, second series.<br /> -<em>Varia</em>; readings, 10<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em><br /> -Silent hour; essays.<br /> -Half-length Portraits.<br /> -Essays on English Writers.<br /> -Other People's Windows, 6<em>s.</em> & 2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em><br /> -A Man's Thoughts.</p></blockquote> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11a" id="Page_11a">[Pg 11]</a></span></p> - -<p><em>George Eliot</em>, by G. W. Cooke, -10<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p><em>Germany.</em> See Foreign Countries.</p> - -<p>GESSI, <span class="smcap">Romolo Pasha</span>, <em>Seven -Years in the Soudan</em>, 18<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>GHIBERTI & DONATELLO. -See Great Artists.</p> - -<p>GILES, E., <em>Australia Twice -Traversed</em>, 1872-76, 2 vols. 30<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>GILL, J. See Low's Readers.</p> - -<p>GILLESPIE, W. M., <em>Surveying</em>, -n. ed. 21<em>s.</em></p> - -<p><em>Giotto</em>, by Harry Quilter, illust. -15<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— See also Great Artists.</p> - -<p>GIRDLESTONE, C., <em>Private -Devotions</em>, 2<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>GLADSTONE. See Prime -Ministers.</p> - -<p>GLENELG, P., <em>Devil and the -Doctor</em>, 1<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>GLOVER, R., <em>Light of the -World</em>, n. ed., 2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>GLCK. See Great Musicians.</p> - -<p><em>Goethe's Faustus</em>, in orig. rhyme, -by Huth, 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Prosa</em>, by C. A. Buchheim -(Low's German Series), 3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>GOLDSMITH, O., <em>She Stoops -to Conquer</em>, by Austin Dobson, -illust. by E. A. Abbey, 84<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— See also Choice Editions.</p> - -<p>GOOCH, <span class="smcap">Fanny C.</span>, <em>Mexicans</em>, -16<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>GOODALL, <em>Life and Landscape -on the Norfolk Broads</em>, 126<em>s.</em> -and 210<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— & EMERSON, <em>Pictures of -East Anglian Life</em>, 5 5<em>s.</em> and 7 7<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>GOODMAN, E. J., <em>The Best -Tour in Norway</em>, 6<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— N. & A., <em>Fen Skating</em>, 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>GOODYEAR, W. H., <em>Grammar -of the Lotus, Ornament and Sun -Worship</em>, 63<em>s.</em> nett.</p> - -<p>GORDON, J. E. H., <em>Physical -Treatise on Electricity and Magnetism</em>. -3rd ed. 2 vols. 42<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Electric Lighting</em>, 18<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>School Electricity</em>, 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— Mrs. J. E. H., <em>Decorative -Electricity</em>, illust. 12<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>GOWER, <span class="smcap">Lord Ronald</span>, <em>Handbook -to the Art Galleries of Belgium -and Holland</em>, 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Northbrook Gallery</em>, 63<em>s.</em> -and 105<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Portraits at Castle Howard</em>, -2 vols. 126<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— See also Great Artists.</p> - -<p>GRAESSI, <em>Italian Dictionary</em>, -3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em>; roan, 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>GRAY, T. See Choice Eds.</p> - -<p><em>Great Artists, Biographies</em>, -illustrated, emblematical binding, -3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em> per vol. except where -the price is given.</p> - -<blockquote><p>Barbizon School, 2 vols.<br /> -Claude le Lorrain.<br /> -Correggio, 2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em><br /> -Cox and De Wint.<br /> -George Cruikshank.<br /> -Della Robbia and Cellini, 2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em><br /> -Albrecht Drer.<br /> -Figure Paintings of Holland.<br /> -Fra Angelico, Masaccio, &c.<br /> -Fra Bartolommeo, &c.<br /> -Gainsborough and Constable.<br /> -Ghiberti and Donatello, 2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em><br /> -Giotto, by H. Quilter, 15<em>s.</em><br /> -Hogarth, by A. Dobson.<br /> -Hans Holbein.<br /> -Landscape Painters of Holland.<br /> -Landseer.<br /> -Leonardo da Vinci.<br /> -Little Masters of Germany, by Scott; <em>d. de luxe</em>, 10<em>s.</em> <em>6d.</em><br /> -Mantegna and Francia.<br /> -Meissonier, 2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em><br /> -Michelangelo.<br /> -Mulready.<br /> -Murillo, by Minor, 2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em><br /> -Overbeck.<br /> -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13a" id="Page_13a">[Pg 13]</a></span> -Raphael.<br /> -Rembrandt.<br /> -Reynolds.<br /> -Romney and Lawrence, 2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em><br /> -Rubens, by Kett.<br /> -Tintoretto, by Osler.<br /> -Titian, by Heath.<br /> -Turner, by Monkhouse.<br /> -Vandyck and Hals.<br /> -Velasquez.<br /> -Vernet & Delaroche.<br /> -Watteau, by Mollett, 2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em><br /> -Wilkie, by Mollett.<br /> -<br /> -<em>Great Musicians</em>, edited by F. Hueffer. A series of biographies, 3<em>s.</em> each:—<br /> -Bach, by Poole.<br /> -Beethoven.<br /> -[7]Berlioz.<br /> -Cherubini.<br /> -English Church Composers.<br /> -[7]Glck.<br /> -Handel.<br /> -Haydn.<br /> -[7]Marcello.<br /> -Mendelssohn.<br /> -Mozart.<br /> -<a name="FNanchor_7_7" id="FNanchor_7_7"></a><a href="#Footnote_7_7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a>Palestrina and the Roman School.<br /> -Purcell.<br /> -Rossini and Modern Italian School.<br /> -Schubert.<br /> -Schumann.<br /> -Richard Wagner.<br /> -Weber.</p></blockquote> - -<p><em>Greece.</em> See Foreign Countries.</p> - -<p>GRIEB, <em>German Dictionary</em>, n. ed. 2 vols. 21<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>GRIMM, H., <em>Literature</em>, 8<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>GROHMANN, <em>Camps in the Rockies</em>, 12<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>GROVES, <span class="smcap">J. Percy</span>. See Low's Standard Books.</p> - -<p>GUIZOT, <em>History of England</em>, illust. 3 vols. re-issue at 10<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em> per vol.</p> - -<p>—— <em>History of France</em>, illust. re-issue, 8 vols. 10<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em> each.</p> - -<p>—— Abridged by G. Masson, 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>GUYON, <span class="smcap">Madame</span>, <em>Life</em>, 6<em>s.</em></p></blockquote> - -<blockquote> - -<p>HADLEY, J., <em>Roman Law</em>, 7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p><em>Half-length Portraits.</em> See Gentle Life Series.</p> - -<p>HALFORD, F. M., <em>Dry Fly-fishing</em>, n. ed. 25<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Floating Flies</em>, 15<em>s.</em> & 30<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>HALL, <em>How to Live Long</em>, 2<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>HALSEY, F. A., <em>Slide Valve Gears</em>, 8<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>HAMILTON. See English Philosophers.</p> - -<p>—— E. <em>Fly-fishing</em>, 6<em>s.</em> and 10<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Riverside Naturalist</em>, 14<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>HAMILTON'S <em>Mexican Handbook</em>, 8<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>HANDEL. See Great Musicians.</p> - -<p>HANDS, T., <em>Numerical Exercises in Chemistry</em>, 2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em>; -without ans. 2<em>s.</em>; ans. sep. 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p><em>Handy Guide to Dry-fly Fishing</em>, by Cotswold Isys, 1<em>s.</em></p> - -<p><em>Handy Guide Book to Japanese Islands</em>, 6<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>HARDY, A. S., <em>Passe-rose</em>, 6<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <span class="smcap">Thos.</span> See Low's Standard Novels.</p> - -<p>HARKUT, F., <em>Conspirator</em>, 6<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>HARLAND, MARION, <em>Home Kitchen</em>, 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p><em>Harper's Young People</em>, vols. I.-VII. 7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em> each; -gilt 8<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>HARRIES, A. See Nursing Record Series.</p> - -<p>HARRIS, W. B., <em>Land of the African Sultan</em>, 10<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em>; 1. p. 31<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>HARRISON, <span class="smcap">Mary</span>, <em>Modern Cookery</em>, 6<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Skilful Cook</em>, n. ed. 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <span class="smcap">Mrs. B.</span> <em>Old-fashioned Fairy Book</em>, 6<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— W., <em>London Houses</em>, Illust. n. edit. 1<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em>, 6<em>s.</em> net; & 2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>HARTLEY and MILL. See -English Philosophers.</p> - -<p>HATTON, <span class="smcap">Joseph</span>, <em>Journalistic -London</em>, 12<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— See also Low's Standard -Novels.</p> - -<p>HAWEIS, H. R., <em>Broad Church</em>, -6<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Poets in the Pulpit</em>, 10<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em> -new edit. 6<em>s.</em>; also 3<em>s.</em> <em>6d.</em></p> - -<p>—— Mrs., <em>Housekeeping</em>, 2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Beautiful Houses</em>, 4<em>s.</em>, new -edit. 1<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>HAYDN. See Great Musicians.</p> - -<p>HAZLITT, W., <em>Round Table</em>, -2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>HEAD, <span class="smcap">Percy R.</span> See Illus. -Text Books and Great Artists.</p> - -<p>HEARD, A. F., <em>Russian Church</em>, -16<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>HEARN, L., <em>Youma</em>, 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>HEATH, F. G., <em>Fern World</em>, -12<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em>, new edit. 6<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <span class="smcap">Gertrude</span>, <em>Tell us Why</em>, -2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>HELDMANN, B., <em>Mutiny of -the "Leander,"</em> 7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em> and 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— See also Low's Standard -Books for Boys.</p> - -<p>HENTY, G. A., <em>Hidden Foe</em>, -2 vols. 21<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— See also Low's Standard -Books for Boys.</p> - -<p>—— <span class="smcap">Richmond</span>, <em>Australiana</em>, -5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>HERBERT, T., <em>Salads and -Sandwiches</em>, 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>HICKS, C. S., <em>Our Boys, and -what to do with Them; Merchant -Service</em>, 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Yachts, Boats, and Canoes</em>, -10<em>s.</em> <em>6d.</em></p> - -<p>HIGGINSON, T. W., <em>Atlantic -Essays</em>, 6<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>History of the U.S.</em>, illust. -14<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>HILL, <span class="smcap">A. Staveley</span>, <em>From -Home to Home in N.-W. Canada</em>, -21<em>s.</em>, new edit. 7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— G. B., <em>Footsteps of Johnson</em>, -63<em>s.</em>; <em>dition de luxe</em>, 147<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>HINMAN, R., <em>Eclectic Physical -Geography</em>, 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p><em>Hints on proving Wills without -Professional Assistance</em>, n. ed. 1<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>HOEY, Mrs. <span class="smcap">Cashel</span>. See -Low's Standard Novels.</p> - -<p>HOFFER, <em>Caoutchouc & Gutta -Percha</em>, 12<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>HOGARTH. See Gr. Artists.</p> - -<p>HOLBEIN. See Great Artists.</p> - -<p>HOLDER, <span class="smcap">Charles F.</span>, <em>Ivory -King</em>, 8<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Living Lights</em>, 8<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Marvels of Animal Life</em>, -8<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>HOLM, <span class="smcap">Saxe</span>, <em>Draxy Miller</em>, -2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em> and 2<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>HOLMES, <span class="smcap">O. Wendell</span>, <em>Before -the Curfew</em>, 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Over the Tea Cups</em>, 6<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Iron Gate, &c., Poems</em>, 6<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Last Leaf</em>, 42<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Mechanism in Thought -and Morals</em>, 1<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Mortal Antipathy</em>, 8<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em>, -2<em>s.</em> and 1<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Our Hundred Days in -Europe</em>, new edit. 6<em>s.</em>; l. paper -15<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Poetical Works</em>, new edit., -2 vols. 10<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Works</em>, prose, 10 vols.; -poetry, 4 vols.; 14 vols. 84<em>s.</em> -Limited large paper edit., 14 vols. -294<em>s.</em> nett.</p> - -<p>—— See also Low's Standard -Novels and Rose Library.</p> - -<p>HOLUB, E., <em>South Africa</em>, -2 vols. 42<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>HOPKINS, <span class="smcap">Manley</span>, <em>Treatise -on the Cardinal Numbers</em>, 2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_14a" id="Page_14a">[Pg 14]</a></span> -<em>Horace in Latin</em>, with Smart's -literal translation, 2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em>; translation -only, 1<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>HORETZKY, C., <em>Canada on -the Pacific</em>, 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p><em>How and where to Fish in -Ireland</em>, by H. Regan, 3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>HOWARD, <span class="smcap">Blanche W.</span>, <em>Tony -the Maid</em>, 3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— See also Low's Standard -Novels.</p> - -<p>HOWELLS, W. D., <em>Suburban -Sketches</em>, 7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Undiscovered Country</em>, -3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em> and 1<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>HOWORTH, H. H., <em>Glacial -Nightmare</em>, 18<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Mammoth and the Flood</em>, -18<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>HUDSON, N. H., <em>Purple Land -that England Lost</em>; Banda Oriental -2 vols. 21<em>s.</em>: 1 vol. 6<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>HUEFFER. E. See Great -Musicians.</p> - -<p>HUGHES, <span class="smcap">Hugh Price</span>. See -Preachers.</p> - -<p>HUME F., <em>Creature of the -Night</em>, 1<em>s.</em></p> - -<p><em>Humorous Art at the Naval -Exhibition</em>, 1<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>HUMPHREYS, <span class="smcap">Jennet</span>, <em>Some -Little Britons in Brittany</em>, 2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p><em>Hundred Greatest Men</em>, new -edit. one vol. 21<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>HUNTINGDON, <em>The Squire's -Nieces</em>, 2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em> (Playtime Library.)</p> - -<p>HYDE, <em>Hundred Years by -Post</em>, 1<em>s.</em></p> - -<p><em>Hymnal Companion to the -Book of Common Prayer</em>, separate -lists gratis.</p> - -<p><em>Iceland.</em> See Foreign Countries.</p> - -<p><em>Illustrated Text-Books of Art-Education</em>, -edit. by E. J. Poynter, -R.A., illust. 5<em>s.</em> each.</p> - -<p>Architecture, Classic and Early -Christian.</p> - -<p>Architecture, Gothic and Renaissance.</p> - -<p>German, Flemish, and Dutch -Painting.</p> - -<p>Painting, Classic and Italian.</p> - -<p>Painting, English and American.</p> - -<p>Sculpture, modern.</p> - -<p>Sculpture, by G. Redford.</p> - -<p>Spanish and French artists.</p> - -<p>INDERWICK, F. A., <em>Interregnum</em>, -10<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Sidelights on the Stuarts</em>, -new edit. 7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>INGELOW, <span class="smcap">Jean</span>. See Low's -Standard Novels.</p> - -<p>INGLIS, <em>Our New Zealand -Cousins</em>, 6<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Sport and Work on the -Nepaul Frontier</em>, 21<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Tent Life in Tiger Land</em>, -18<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>IRVING, W., <em>Little Britain</em>, -10<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em> and 6<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Works</em>, "Geoffrey Crayon" -edit. 27 vols. 16<em>l.</em> 16<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>JACKSON, J., <em>Handwriting -in Relation to Hygiene</em>, 3<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>New Style Vertical Writing -Copy-Books</em>, Series I. 1-8, 2<em>d.</em> -and 1<em>d.</em> each.</p> - -<p>—— <em>New Code Copy-Books</em>, -22 Nos. 2<em>d.</em> each.</p> - -<p>—— <em>Shorthand of Arithmetic</em>, -Companion to all Arithmetics, -1<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— L., <em>Ten Centuries of European -Progress</em>, with maps, 12<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>JAMES, <span class="smcap">Croake</span>, <em>Law and -Lawyers</em>, new edit. 7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <span class="smcap">Henry</span>. See Daudet, A.</p> - -<p>JAMES and MOL'S <em>French -Dictionary</em>, 3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em> cloth; roan, 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>JAMES, <em>German Dictionary</em>, -3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em> cloth; roan 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>JANVIER, <em>Aztec Treasure -House</em>, 7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em>; new edit. 5<em>s.</em></p></blockquote> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_15a" id="Page_15a">[Pg 15]</a></span></p> - -<blockquote> - -<p><em>Japan.</em> See Foreign Countries.</p> - -<p>JEFFERIES, <span class="smcap">Richard</span>, <em>Amaryllis -at the Fair</em>, 7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Bevis</em>, new edit. 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>JEPHSON, A. J. M., <em>Emin -Pasha</em> relief expedition, 21<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>JERDON. See Low's Standard -Series.</p> - -<p>JOHNSTON, H. H., <em>The Congo</em>, -21<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>JOHNSTON-LAVIS, H. J., -<em>South Italian Volcanoes</em>, 15<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>JOHNSTONE, D. L., <em>Land of -the Mountain Kingdom</em>, new edit. -3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em> and 2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>JONES, <span class="smcap">Mrs. Herbert</span>, <em>Sandringham, -Past and Present</em>, -illust., new edit. 8<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>JULIEN, F., <em>Conversational -French Reader</em>, 2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>English Student's French -Examiner</em>, 2<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>First Lessons in Conversational -French Grammar</em>, n. ed. 1<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>French at Home and at -School</em>, Book I. accidence, 2<em>s.</em>; -key, 3<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Petites Leons de Conversation -et de Grammaire</em>, n. ed. 3<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Petites Leons</em>, with -phrases, 3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Phrases of Daily Use</em>, -separately, 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>KARR, <span class="smcap">H. W. Seton</span>, <em>Shores -and Alps of Alaska</em>, 16<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>KARSLAND, <span class="smcap">Veva</span>, <em>Women -and their Work</em>, 1<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>KAY. See Foreign Countries.</p> - -<p>KENNEDY, E. B., <em>Blacks and -Bushrangers</em>, new edit. 5<em>s.</em>, 3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em> -and 2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>KERR, W. M., <em>Far Interior, -the Cape, Zambesi, &c.</em>, 2 vols. 32<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>KERSHAW, S. W., <em>Protestants -from France in their English -Home</em>, 6<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>KETT, C. W., <em>Rubens</em>, 3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p></blockquote> - -<blockquote> - -<p><em>Khedives and Pashas</em>, 7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>KILNER, E. A., <em>Four Welsh -Counties</em>, 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p><em>King and Commons.</em> See Cavalier -in Bayard Series.</p> - -<p>KINGSLEY, R. G., <em>Children -of Westminster Abbey</em>, 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>KINGSTON. See Low's -Standard Books.</p> - -<p>KIPLING, <span class="smcap">Rudyard</span>, <em>Soldiers -Three, &c.</em>, stories, 1<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Story of the Gadsbys</em>, new -edit. 1<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>In Black and White, &c.</em>, -stories, 1<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Wee Willie Winkie, &c.</em>, -stories, 1<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Under the Deodars, &c.</em>, -stories, 1<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Phantom Rickshaw, &c.</em>, -stories, 1<em>s.</em></p> - -<p><sup>*</sup><sub>*</sub><sup>*</sup> The six collections of stories -may also be had in 2 vols. 3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em> -each.</p> - -<p>—— <em>Stories</em>, Library Edition, -2 vols. 6<em>s.</em> each.</p> - -<p>KIRKALDY, W. G., <em>David -Kirkaldy's Mechanical Testing</em>, 84<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>KNIGHT, A. L., <em>In the Web -of Destiny</em>, 7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— E. F., <em>Cruise of the Falcon</em>, -new edit. 3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— E. J., <em>Albania and Montenegro</em>, -12<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— V. C., <em>Church Unity</em>, 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>KNOX, T. W., <em>Boy Travellers</em>, -new edit. 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>KNOX-LITTLE, W. J., <em>Sermons</em>, -3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>KUNHARDT, C. P., <em>Small -Yachts</em>, new edit. 50<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Steam Yachts</em>, 16<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>KWONG, <em>English Phrases</em>, 21<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>LABOULLAYE, E., <em>Abdallah</em>, -2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>LALANNE, <em>Etching</em>, 12<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p></blockquote> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_16a" id="Page_16a">[Pg 16]</a></span></p> - -<blockquote> - -<p>LAMB, <span class="smcap">Chas.</span>, <em>Essays of Elia</em>, -with designs by C. O. Murray, 6<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>LAMBERT, <em>Angling Literature</em>, -3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p><em>Landscape Painters of Holland.</em> -See Great Artists.</p> - -<p>LANDSEER. See Great Artists.</p> - -<p>LANGLEY, S. P., <em>New Astronomy</em>, -10<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>LANIER, S., <em>Boy's Froissart</em>, -7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em>; <em>King Arthur</em>, 7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em>; -<em>Mabinogion</em>, 7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em>; <em>Percy</em>, 7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>LANSDELL, <span class="smcap">Henry</span>, <em>Through -Siberia</em>, 1 v. 15<em>s.</em> and 10<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Russia in Central Asia</em>, -2 vols. 42<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Through Central Asia</em>, 12<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>LARDEN, W., <em>School Course -on Heat</em>, n. ed. 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>LAURIE, A., <em>Secret of the -Magian, the Mystery of Ecbatana</em>, -illus. 6<em>s.</em> See also Low's Standard -Books.</p> - -<p>LAWRENCE, <span class="smcap">Sergeant</span>, <em>Autobiography</em>, -6<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— and ROMNEY. See Great -Artists.</p> - -<p>LAYARD, <span class="smcap">Mrs.</span>, <em>West Indies</em>, -2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>LEA, H. C., <em>Inquisition</em>, 3 vols. -42<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>LEARED, A., <em>Marocco</em>, n. ed. -16<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>LEAVITT, <em>New World Tragedies</em>, -7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>LEFFINGWELL, W. B., -<em>Shooting</em>, 18<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Wild Fowl Shooting</em>, -10<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>LEFROY, W., <span class="smcap">Dean</span>. See -Preachers.</p> - -<p>LELAND, C. G., <em>Algonquin -Legends</em>, 8<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>LEMON, M., <em>Small House over -the Water</em>, 6<em>s.</em></p></blockquote> - -<blockquote> - -<p><em>Leo XIII. Life</em>, 18<em>s.</em></p> - -<p><em>Leonardo da Vinci.</em> See Great -Artists.</p> - -<p>—— <em>Literary Works</em>, by J. P. -Richter, 2 vols. 252<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>LIEBER, <em>Telegraphic Cipher</em>, -42<em>s.</em> nett.</p> - -<p><em>Like unto Christ.</em> See Gentle -Life Series.</p> - -<p>LITTLE, <span class="smcap">Arch.</span> J., <em>Yang-tse -Gorges</em>, n. ed., 10<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p><em>Little Masters of Germany.</em> See -Great Artists.</p> - -<p>LONGFELLOW, <em>Miles Standish</em>, -illus. 21<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Maidenhood</em>, with col. pl. -2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em>; gilt edges, 3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Nuremberg</em>, photogr. illu. -31<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Song of Hiawatha</em>, illust. -21<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>LOOMIS, E., <em>Astronomy</em>, n. ed. -8<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>LORNE, <span class="smcap">Marquis of</span>, <em>Canada -and Scotland</em>, 7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Palmerston.</em> See Prime -Ministers.</p> - -<p><em>Louis, St.</em> See Bayard -Series.</p> - -<p><em>Low's French Readers</em>, edit. by -C. F. Clifton, I. 3<em>d.</em>, II. 3<em>d.</em>, III. -6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>German Series.</em> See -Goethe, Meissner, Sandars, and -Schiller.</p> - -<p>—— <em>London Charities</em>, annually, -1<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em>; sewed, 1<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Illustrated Germ. Primer</em>, -1<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Infant Primers</em>, I. illus. -3<em>d.</em>; II. illus. 6<em>d.</em> and 7<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Pocket Encyclopdia</em>, with -plates, 3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em>; roan, 4<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Readers</em>, I., 9<em>d.</em>; II., 10<em>d.</em>; -III., 1<em>s.</em>; IV., 1<em>s.</em> 3<em>d.</em>; V., 1<em>s.</em> 4<em>d.</em>; -VI., 1<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p></blockquote> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17a" id="Page_17a">[Pg 17]</a></span></p> - -<blockquote> - -<p><em>Low's Select Parchment Series.</em></p> - -<p>Aldrich (T. B.) Friar Jerome's -Beautiful Book, 3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>Lewis (Rev. Gerrard), Ballads of -the Cid, 2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>Whittier (J. G.) The King's Missive. -3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p><em>Low's Stand. Library of Travel</em> -(except where price is stated), per -volume, 7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<blockquote> - -<p>1. Butler, Great Lone Land; also -3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>2. —— Wild North Land.</p> - -<p>3. Stanley (H. M.) Coomassie, -3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>4. —— How I Found Livingstone; -also 3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>5. —— Through the Dark Continent, -1 vol. illust., 12<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em>; also -3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>8. MacGahan (J. A.) Oxus.</p> - -<p>9. Spry, voyage, <em>Challenger</em>.</p> - -<p>10. Burnaby's Asia Minor, 10<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>11. Schweinfurth's Heart of Africa, -2 vols. 15<em>s.</em>; also 3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em> each.</p> - -<p>12. Marshall (W.) Through America.</p> - -<p>13. Lansdell (H.) Through Siberia, -10<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>14. Coote, South by East, 10<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>15. Knight, Cruise of the <em>Falcon</em>, -also 3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>16. Thomson (Joseph) Through -Masai Land.</p> - -<p>19. Ashe (R. P.) Two Kings of -Uganda, 3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p></blockquote> - -<p><em>Low's Standard Novels</em> (except -where price is stated), 6<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>Baker, John Westacott.</p> - -<p>Black (W.) Craig Royston.</p> - -<p>—— Daughter of Heth.</p> - -<p>—— House Boat.</p> - -<p>—— In Far Lochaber.</p> - -<p>—— In Silk Attire.</p> - -<p>—— Kilmeny.</p> - -<p>—— Lady Siverdale's Sweetheart.</p> - -<p>—— New Prince Fortunatus.</p> - -<p>—— Penance of John Logan.</p> - -<p>—— Stand Fast, Craig Royston!</p> - -<p>—— Sunrise.</p> - -<p>—— Three Feathers.</p></blockquote> - -<blockquote> - -<p>Blackmore (R. D.) Alice Lorraine.</p> - -<p>—— Christowell.</p> - -<p>—— Clara Vaughan.</p> - -<p>—— Cradock Nowell.</p> - -<p>—— Cripps the Carrier.</p> - -<p>—— Ereme, or My Father's Sins.</p> - -<p>—— Kit and Kitty.</p> - -<p>—— Lorna Doone.</p> - -<p>—— Mary Anerley.</p> - -<p>—— Sir Thomas Upmore.</p> - -<p>—— Springhaven.</p> - -<p>Brmont, Gentleman Digger.</p> - -<p>Brown (Robert) Jack Abbott's Log.</p> - -<p>Bynner, Agnes Surriage.</p> - -<p>—— Begum's Daughter.</p> - -<p>Cable (G. W.) Bonaventure, 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>Coleridge (C. R.) English Squire.</p> - -<p>Craddock, Despot of Broomsedge.</p> - -<p>Croker (Mrs. B. M.) Some One Else.</p> - -<p>Cumberland (Stuart) Vasty Deep.</p> - -<p>De Leon, Under the Stars and -Crescent.</p> - -<p>Edwards (Miss Betham) Half-way.</p> - -<p>Eggleston, Juggernaut.</p> - -<p>French Heiress in her own Chteau.</p> - -<p>Gilliat (E.) Story of the Dragonnades.</p> - -<p>Hardy (A. S.) Passe-rose.</p> - -<p>—— (Thos.) Far from the Madding.</p> - -<p>—— Hand of Ethelberta.</p> - -<p>—— Laodicean.</p> - -<p>—— Mayor of Casterbridge.</p> - -<p>—— Pair of Blue Eyes.</p> - -<p>—— Return of the Native.</p> - -<p>—— Trumpet-Major.</p> - -<p>—— Two on a Tower.</p> - -<p>Harkut, Conspirator.</p> - -<p>Hatton (J.) Old House at Sandwich.</p> - -<p>—— Three Recruits.</p> - -<p>Hoey (Mrs. Cashel) Golden Sorrow.</p> - -<p>—— Out of Court.</p> - -<p>—— Stern Chase.</p> - -<p>Howard (Blanche W.) Open Door.</p> - -<p>Ingelow (Jean) Don John.</p> - -<p>—— John Jerome, 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— Sarah de Berenger.</p> - -<p>Lathrop, Newport, 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>Mac Donald (Geo.) Adela Cathcart.</p> - -<p>—— Guild Court.</p></blockquote> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_18a" id="Page_18a">[Pg 18]</a></span></p> - -<blockquote> - -<p>Mac Donald (Geo.) Mary Marston.</p> - -<p>—— Orts.</p> - -<p>—— Stephen Archer, &c.</p> - -<p>—— The Vicar's Daughter.</p> - -<p>—— Weighed and Wanting.</p> - -<p>Macmaster, Our Pleasant Vices.</p> - -<p>Macquoid (Mrs.) Diane.</p> - -<p>Musgrave (Mrs.) Miriam.</p> - -<p>Osborn, Spell of Ashtaroth, 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>Prince Maskiloff.</p> - -<p>Riddell (Mrs.) Alaric Spenceley.</p> - -<p>—— Daisies and Buttercups.</p> - -<p>—— Senior Partner.</p> - -<p>—— Struggle for Fame.</p> - -<p>Russell (W. Clark) Betwixt the -Forelands.</p> - -<p>—— Frozen Pirate.</p> - -<p>—— Jack's Courtship.</p> - -<p>—— John Holdsworth.</p> - -<p>—— Little Loo.</p> - -<p>—— My Watch Below.</p> - -<p>—— Ocean Free Lance.</p> - -<p>—— Sailor's Sweetheart.</p> - -<p>—— Sea Queen.</p> - -<p>—— Strange Voyage.</p> - -<p>—— The Lady Maud.</p> - -<p>—— Wreck of the <em>Grosvenor</em>.</p> - -<p>Steuart, Kilgroom.</p> - -<p>Stockton (F. R.) Ardis Claverden.</p> - -<p>—— Bee-man of Orn, 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— Hundredth Man.</p> - -<p>—— The late Mrs. Null.</p> - -<p>Stoker, Snake's Pass.</p> - -<p>Stowe (Mrs.) Old Town Folk.</p> - -<p>—— Poganue People.</p> - -<p>Thomas, House on the Scar.</p> - -<p>Thomson, Ulu, an African Romance.</p> - -<p>Tourgee, Murvale Eastman.</p> - -<p>Tytler (S.) Duchess Frances.</p> - -<p>Vane, From the Dead.</p> - -<p>Wallace (Lew.) Ben Hur.</p> - -<p>Warner, Little Journey in the -World.</p> - -<p>Woolson (Constance Fenimore) -Anne.</p> - -<p>—— East Angles.</p> - -<p>—— For the Major, 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— Jupiter Lights.</p> - -<blockquote><p><em>See also Sea Stories.</em></p></blockquote> - -<p><em>Low's Stand. Novels</em>, new issue -at short intervals, 2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em> and 2<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>Blackmore, Alice Lorraine.</p> - -<p>—— Christowell.</p> - -<p>—— Clara Vaughan.</p> - -<p>—— Cripps the Carrier.</p> - -<p>—— Kit and Kitty.</p> - -<p>—— Lorna Doone.</p> - -<p>—— Mary Anerley.</p> - -<p>—— Tommy Upmore.</p> - -<p>Cable, Bonaventure.</p> - -<p>Croker, Some One Else.</p> - -<p>Cumberland, Vasty Deep.</p> - -<p>De Leon, Under the Stars.</p> - -<p>Edwards, Half-way.</p> - -<p>Hardy, Laodicean.</p> - -<p>—— Madding Crowd.</p> - -<p>—— Mayor of Casterbridge.</p> - -<p>—— Trumpet-Major.</p> - -<p>—— Two on a Tower.</p> - -<p>Hatton, Old House at Sandwich.</p> - -<p>—— Three Recruits.</p> - -<p>Hoey, Golden Sorrow.</p> - -<p>—— Out of Court.</p> - -<p>—— Stern Chase.</p> - -<p>Holmes, Guardian Angel.</p> - -<p>Ingelow, John Jerome.</p> - -<p>—— Sarah de Berenger.</p> - -<p>Mac Donald, Adela Cathcart.</p> - -<p>—— Guild Court.</p> - -<p>—— Stephen Archer.</p> - -<p>—— Vicar's Daughter.</p> - -<p>Oliphant, Innocent.</p> - -<p>Riddell, Daisies and Buttercups.</p> - -<p>—— Senior Partner.</p> - -<p>Stockton, Bee-man of Orn, 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— Dusantes.</p> - -<p>—— Mrs. Lecks and Mrs. Aleshine.</p> - -<p>Stowe, Dred.</p> - -<p>—— Old Town Folk.</p> - -<p>—— Poganuc People.</p> - -<p>Thomson, Ulu.</p> - -<p>Walford, Her Great Idea, &c., -Stories.</p> - -<p><em>Low's German Series</em>, a graduated -course. See "German."</p> - -<p><em>Low's Readers.</em> See English -Reader and French Reader.</p> - -<p><em>Low's Standard Books for Boys</em>, -with numerous illustrations, -2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em> each; gilt edges, 3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19a" id="Page_19a">[Pg 19]</a></span></p> - -<p>Adventures in New Guinea: the -Narrative of Louis Tregance.</p> - -<p>Biart (Lucien) Adventures of a -Young Naturalist.</p> - -<p>—— My Rambles in the New World.</p> - -<p>Boussenard, Crusoes of Guiana.</p> - -<p>—— Gold Seekers, a sequel to the -above.</p> - -<p>Butler (Col. Sir Wm., K.C.B.) Red -Cloud, the Solitary Sioux: a Tale -of the Great Prairie.</p> - -<p>Cahun (Leon) Adventures of Captain -Mago.</p> - -<p>—— Blue Banner.</p> - -<p>Clire, Startling Exploits of the -Doctor.</p> - -<p>Chaillu (Paul du) Wild Life under -the Equator.</p> - -<p>Collingwood (Harry) Under the -Meteor Flag.</p> - -<p>—— Voyage of the <em>Aurora</em>.</p> - -<p>Cozzens (S. W.) Marvellous Country.</p> - -<p>Dodge (Mrs.) Hans Brinker; or, -The Silver Skates.</p> - -<p>Du Chaillu (Paul) Stories of the -Gorilla Country.</p> - -<p>Erckmann-Chatrian, Brothers -Rantzau.</p> - -<p>Fenn (G. Manville) Off to the Wilds.</p> - -<p>—— Silver Caon.</p> - -<p>Groves (Percy) Charmouth Grange; -a Tale of the 17th Century.</p> - -<p>Heldmann (B.) Mutiny on Board -the Ship <em>Leander</em>.</p> - -<p>Henty (G. A.) Cornet of Horse: a -Tale of Marlborough's Wars.</p> - -<p>—— Jack Archer; a Tale of the -Crimea.</p> - -<p>—— Winning his Spurs: a Tale of -the Crusades.</p> - -<p>Johnstone (D. Lawson) Mountain -Kingdom.</p> - -<p>Kennedy (E. B.) Blacks and Bushrangers -in Queensland.</p> - -<p>Kingston (W. H. G.) Ben Burton; -or, Born and Bred at Sea.</p> - -<p>—— Captain Mugford; or, Our -Salt and Fresh Water Tutors.</p> - -<p>—— Dick Cheveley.</p> - -<p>—— Heir of Kilfinnan.</p></blockquote> - -<blockquote> - -<p>Kingston (W. H. G.) Snowshoes -and Canoes.</p> - -<p>—— Two Supercargoes.</p> - -<p>—— With Axe and Rifle on the -Western Prairies.</p> - -<p>Laurie (A.) Conquest of the Moon.</p> - -<p>—— New York to Brest in Seven -Hours.</p> - -<p>MacGregor (John) A Thousand -Miles in the <em>Rob Roy</em> Canoe on -Rivers and Lakes of Europe.</p> - -<p>Maclean (H. E.) Maid of the Ship -<em>Golden Age</em>.</p> - -<p>Meunier, Great Hunting Grounds -of the World.</p> - -<p>Mller, Noble Words and Deeds.</p> - -<p>Perelaer, The Three Deserters; -or, Ran Away from the Dutch.</p> - -<p>Reed (Talbot Baines) Sir Ludar: a -Tale of the Days of the Good -Queen Bess.</p> - -<p>Rousselet (Louis) Drummer-boy: a -Story of the Time of Washington.</p> - -<p>—— King of the Tigers.</p> - -<p>—— Serpent Charmer.</p> - -<p>—— Son of the Constable of -France.</p> - -<p>Russell (W. Clark) Frozen Pirates.</p> - -<p>Stanley, My Kalulu—Prince, King -and Slave.</p> - -<p>Winder (F. H.) Lost in Africa.</p> - -<p><em>Low's Standard Series of Books</em> -by popular writers, cloth gilt, -2<em>s.</em>; gilt edges, 2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em> each.</p> - -<p>Alcott (L. M.) A Rose in Bloom.</p> - -<p>—— An Old-Fashioned Girl.</p> - -<p>—— Aunt Jo's Scrap Bag.</p> - -<p>—— Eight Cousins, illust.</p> - -<p>—— Jack and Jill.</p> - -<p>—— Jimmy's Cruise.</p> - -<p>—— Little Men.</p> - -<p>—— Little Women and Little Women -Wedded.</p> - -<p>—— Lulu's Library, illust.</p> - -<p>—— Shawl Straps.</p> - -<p>—— Silver Pitchers.</p> - -<p>—— Spinning-Wheel Stories.</p> - -<p>—— Under the Lilacs, illust.</p> - -<p>—— Work and Beginning Again, ill.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_20a" id="Page_20a">[Pg 20]</a></span></p> - -<p>Alden (W. L.) Jimmy Brown, illust.</p> - -<p>—— Trying to Find Europe.</p> - -<p>Bunyan (John) Pilgrim's Progress, -(extra volume), gilt, 2<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>De Witt (Madame) An Only Sister.</p> - -<p>Francis (Francis) Eric and Ethel, -illust.</p> - -<p>Holm (Saxe) Draxy Miller's Dowry.</p> - -<p>Jerdon (Gert.) Keyhole Country, -illust.</p> - -<p>Robinson (Phil) In My Indian -Garden.</p> - -<p>—— Under the Punkah.</p> - -<p>Roe (E. P.) Nature's Serial Story.</p> - -<p>Saintine, Picciola.</p> - -<p>Samuels, Forecastle to Cabin, illust.</p> - -<p>Sandeau (Jules) Seagull Rock.</p> - -<p>Stowe (Mrs.) Dred.</p> - -<p>—— Ghost in the Mill, &c.</p> - -<p>—— My Wife and I.</p> - -<p>—— We and our Neighbours.</p> - -<p>See also Low's Standard Series.</p> - -<p>Tooley (Mrs.) Life of Harriet -Beecher Stowe.</p> - -<p>Warner (C. Dudley) In the Wilderness.</p> - -<p>—— My Summer in a Garden.</p> - -<p>Whitney (Mrs.) A Summer in Leslie -Goldthwaite's Life.</p> - -<p>—— Faith Gartney's Girlhood.</p> - -<p>—— Hitherto.</p> - -<p>—— Real Folks.</p> - -<p>—— The Gayworthys.</p> - -<p>—— We Girls.</p> - -<p>—— The Other Girls: a Sequel.</p> - -<p><sup>*</sup><sub>*</sub><sup>*</sup> <em>A new illustrated list of books -for boys and girls, with portraits -of celebrated authors, sent post -free on application.</em></p> - -<p>LOWELL, J. R., <em>Among my -Books</em>, Series I. and II., 7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em> -each.</p> - -<p>—— <em>My Study Windows</em>, n. ed. -1<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Vision of Sir Launfal</em>, -illus. 63<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>MACDONALD, A., <em>Our Sceptred -Isle</em>, 3s. 6d.</p> - -<p>—— D., <em>Oceania</em>, 6<em>s.</em></p></blockquote> - -<blockquote> - -<p>MACDONALD, <span class="smcap">Geo.</span>, <em>Castle -Warlock, a Homely Romance</em>, 3 -vols. 31<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— See also Low's Standard -Novels.</p> - -<p>—— <span class="smcap">Sir John A.</span>, <em>Life</em>.</p> - -<p>MACDOWALL, <span class="smcap">Alex. B.</span>, -<em>Curve Pictures of London</em>, 1<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>MACGAHAN, J. A., <em>Oxus</em>, -7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>MACGOUN, <em>Commercial Correspondence</em>, -5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>MACGREGOR, J., <em>Rob Roy in -the Baltic</em>, n. ed. 3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em> and 2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Rob Roy Canoe</em>, new edit., -3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em> and 2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Yawl Rob Roy</em>, new edit., -3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em> and 2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>MACKENNA, <em>Brave Men in -Action</em>, 10<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>MACKENZIE, <span class="smcap">Sir Morell</span>, -<em>Fatal Illness of Frederick the -Noble</em>, 2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>MACKINNON and SHADBOLT, -<em>South African Campaign</em>, -50<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>MACLAREN, A. See Preachers.</p> - -<p>MACLEAN, H. E. See Low's -Standard Books.</p> - -<p>MACMASTER. See Low's -Standard Novels.</p> - -<p>MACMURDO, E., <em>History of -Portugal</em>, 21<em>s.</em>; II. 21<em>s.</em>; III. 21<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>MAHAN, A. T., <em>Influence of -Sea Power on History</em>, 18<em>s.</em></p> - -<p><em>Maid of Florence</em>, 10<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>MAIN, <span class="smcap">Mrs.</span>, <em>High Life</em>, 10<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— See also Burnaby, Mrs.</p> - -<p>MALAN, A. N., <em>Cobbler of Cornikeranium</em>, -5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— C. F. <span class="smcap">DE</span> M., <em>Eric and -Connie's Cruise</em>, 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p><em>Man's Thoughts.</em> See Gentle -Life Series.</p> - -<p>MANLEY, J. J., <em>Fish and -Fishing</em>, 6<em>s.</em></p></blockquote> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_21a" id="Page_21a">[Pg 21]</a></span></p> - -<blockquote> - -<p>MANTEGNA and FRANCIA. -See Great Artists.</p> - -<p>MARCH, F. A., <em>Comparative -Anglo-Saxon Grammar</em>, 12<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Anglo-Saxon Reader</em>, -7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>MARKHAM, <span class="smcap">Adm.</span>, <em>Naval -Career</em>, 14<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Whaling Cruise</em>, new edit. -7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— C. R., <em>Peru</em>. See Foreign -Countries.</p> - -<p>—— <em>Fighting Veres</em>, 18<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>War Between Peru and -Chili</em>, 10<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>MARSH, G. P., <em>Lectures on -the English Language</em>, 18<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Origin and History of the -English Language</em>, 18<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>MARSHALL, W. G., <em>Through -America</em>, new edit. 7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>MARSTON, E., <em>How Stanley -wrote "In Darkest Africa,"</em> 1<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— See also Amateur Angler, -Frank's Ranche, and Fresh -Woods.</p> - -<p>—— W., <em>Eminent Actors</em>, n. ed. -6<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>MARTIN, J. W., <em>Float Fishing -and Spinning</em>, new edit. 2<em>s.</em></p> - -<p><em>Massage.</em> See Nursing Record -Series.</p> - -<p>MATTHEWS, J. W., <em>Incwadi -Yami</em>, 14<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>MAURY, M. F., <em>Life</em>, 12<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Physical Geography and -Meteorology of the Sea</em>, new ed. 6<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>MEISSNER, A. L., <em>Children's -Own German Book</em> (Low's Series), -1<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>First German Reader</em> -(Low's Series), 1<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Second German Reader</em> -(Low's Series), 1<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>MEISSONIER. See Great -Artists.</p> - -<p>MELBOURNE, <span class="smcap">Lord</span>. See -Prime Ministers.</p> - -<p>MELIO, G. L., <em>Swedish Drill</em>, -1<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>MENDELSSOHN <em>Family</em>, -1729-1847, Letters and Journals, -2 vols. 30<em>s.</em>; new edit. 30<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— See also Great Musicians.</p> - -<p>MERRIFIELD, J., <em>Nautical -Astronomy</em>, 7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>MERRYLEES, J., <em>Carlsbad</em>, -7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em> and 9<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>MESNEY, W., <em>Tungking</em>, 3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p><em>Metal Workers' Recipes and -Processes</em>, by W. T. Brannt, 12<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>MEUNIER, V. See Low's -Standard Books.</p> - -<p><em>Michelangelo.</em> See Great Artists.</p> - -<p>MILFORD, P. <em>Ned Stafford's -Experiences</em>, 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>MILL, <span class="smcap">James</span>. See English -Philosophers.</p> - -<p>MILLS, J., <em>Alternative Elementary -Chemistry</em>, 1<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Chemistry Based on the -Science and Art Syllabus</em>, 2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Elementary Chemistry</em>, -answers, 2 vols. 1<em>s.</em> each.</p> - -<p>MILTON'S <em>Allegro</em>. See -Choice Editions.</p> - -<p>MITCHELL, D. G. (Ik. Marvel) -<em>English Lands, Letters and Kings</em>, -2 vols. 6<em>s.</em> each.</p> - -<p>—— <em>Writings</em>, new edit. per -vol. 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>MITFORD, J., <em>Letters</em>, 3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <span class="smcap">Miss</span>, <em>Our Village</em>, illust. -5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p><em>Modern Etchings</em>, 63<em>s.</em> & 31<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>MOLLETT, J. W., <em>Dictionary -of Words in Art and Archology</em>, -illust. 15<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Etched Examples</em>, 31<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em> -and 63<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— See also Great Artists.</p></blockquote> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22a" id="Page_22a">[Pg 22]</a></span></p> - -<blockquote> - -<p>MONCK. See English Philosophers.</p> - -<p>MONEY, E., <em>The Truth About -America</em>, 5<em>s.</em>; new edit. 2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>MONKHOUSE. See G. Artists.</p> - -<p><em>Montaigne's Essays</em>, revised by -J. Hain Friswell, 2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— See Gentle Life Series.</p> - -<p>MOORE, J. M., <em>New Zealand -for Emigrant, Invalid, and Tourist</em>, -5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>MORFILL, W. R., <em>Russia</em>, -3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>MORLEY, <span class="smcap">Henry</span>, <em>English -Literature in the Reign of Victoria</em>, -2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Five Centuries of English -Literature</em>, 2<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>MORSE, E. S., <em>Japanese Homes</em>, -new edit. 10<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>MORTEN, <em>Hospital Life</em>, 1<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>MORTIMER, J., <em>Chess Player's -Pocket-Book</em>, new edit. 1<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>MORWOOD, V. S., <em>Our Gipsies</em>, -18<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>MOSS, F. J., <em>Great South Sea</em>, -8<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>MOSSMAN, S., <em>Japan</em>, 3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>MOTTI, <span class="smcap">Pietro</span>, <em>Elementary -Russian Grammar</em>, 2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Russian Conversation -Grammar</em>, 5<em>s.</em>; Key, 2<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>MOULE, H. C. G., <em>Sermons</em>, -3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>MOXLEY, <em>West India Sanatorium, -and Barbados</em>, 3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>MOXON, W., <em>Pilocereus Senilis</em>, -3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>MOZART, 3<em>s.</em> Gr. Musicians.</p> - -<p>MULLER, E. See Low's Standard -Books.</p> - -<p>MULLIN, J. P., <em>Moulding and -Pattern Making</em>, 12<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>MULREADY, 3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em> Great -Artists.</p> - -<p>MURILLO. See Great Artists.</p> - -<p>MUSGRAVE, <span class="smcap">Mrs.</span> See Low's -Standard Novels.</p> - -<p>—— <em>Savage London</em>, n. e. 3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p><em>My Comforter, &c., Religious -Poems</em>, 2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p><em>Napoleon I.</em> See Bayard Series.</p> - -<p><em>Napoleon I. and Marie Louise</em>, -7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>NELSON, <span class="smcap">Wolfred</span>, <em>Panama</em>, -6<em>s.</em></p> - -<p><em>Nelson's Words and Deeds</em>, 3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>NETHERCOTE, <em>Pytchley -Hunt</em>, 8<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p><em>New Democracy</em>, 1<em>s.</em></p> - -<p><em>New Zealand</em>, chromos, by Barraud, -168<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>NICHOLSON, <em>British Association -Work and Workers</em>, 1<em>s.</em></p> - -<p><em>Nineteenth Century</em>, a Monthly -Review, 2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em> per No.</p> - -<p>NISBET, <span class="smcap">Hume</span>, <em>Life and -Nature Studies</em>, 6<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>NIXON, <em>Story of the Transvaal</em>, -12<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p><em>Nordenskild's Voyage</em>, trans. -21<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>NORDHOFF, C., <em>California</em>, -new edit. 12<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>NORRIS, <span class="smcap">Rachel</span>, <em>Nursing -Notes</em>, 2<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>NORTH, W., <em>Roman Fever</em>, -25<em>s.</em></p> - -<p><em>Northern Fairy Tales</em>, 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>NORTON, C. L., <em>Florida</em>, 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>NORWAY, G., <em>How Martin -Drake Found his Father</em>, illus. 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>NUGENT'S <em>French Dictionary</em>, -new edit. 3<em>s.</em></p> - -<p><em>Nuggets of the Gouph</em>, 3<em>s.</em></p> - -<p><em>Nursing Record Series</em>, text -books and manuals. Edited by -Charles F. Rideal.</p> - -<p>1. Lectures to Nurses on Antiseptics -in Surgery. By E. Stanmore -Bishop. With coloured plates, -2<em>s.</em></p> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23a" id="Page_23a">[Pg 23]</a></span></p> -<p>2. Nursing Notes. Medical and -Surgical information. For Hospital -Nurses, &c. With illustrations -and a glossary of terms. -By Rachel Norris (<em>ne</em> Williams), -late Acting Superintendent of -Royal Victoria Military Hospital -at Suez, 2<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>3. Practical Electro-Therapeutics. -By Arthur Harries, M.D., and -H. Newman Lawrence. With -photographs and diagrams, 1<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>4. Massage for Beginners. Simple -and easy directions for learning -and remembering the different -movements. By Lucy Fitch, -1<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>O'BRIEN, <em>Fifty Year of Concession -to Ireland</em>, vol. i. 16<em>s.</em>; -vol. ii. 16<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Irish Land Question</em>, 2<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>OGDEN, <span class="smcap">James</span>, <em>Fly-tying</em>, -2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>O'GRADY, <em>Bardic Literature -of Ireland</em>, 1<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>History of Ireland</em>, vol. i. -7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em>; ii. 7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p><em>Old Masters in Photo.</em> 73<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p><em>Orient Line Guide</em>, new edit. -2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>ORLEBAR, <em>Sancta Christina</em>, -5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p><em>Other People's Windows.</em> See -Gentle Life Series.</p> - -<p>OTT, <em>Denmark and Iceland</em>, -3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em> Foreign Countries.</p> - -<p><em>Our Little Ones in Heaven</em>, 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p><em>Out of School at Eton</em>, 2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>OVERBECK. See Great Artists.</p> - -<p>OWEN, <span class="smcap">Douglas</span>, <em>Marine Insurance</em>, -15<em>s.</em></p> - -<p><em>Oxford Days</em>, by a M.A., 2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>PALGRAVE, <em>Chairman's -Handbook</em>, new edit. 2<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Oliver Cromwell</em>, 10<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>PALLISER, <em>China Collector's -Companion</em>, 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>History of Lace</em>, n. ed. 21<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>PANTON, <em>Homes of Taste</em>, 2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>PARKE, <em>Emin Paska Relief -Expedition</em>, 21<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>PARKER, E. H., <em>Chinese Account -of the Opium War</em>, 1<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>PARSONS, J., <em>Principles of -Partnership</em>, 31<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— T. P., <em>Marine Insurance</em>, -2 vols. 63<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>PEACH, <em>Annals of Swainswick</em>, -10<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p><em>Peel.</em> See Prime Ministers.</p> - -<p>PELLESCHI, G., <em>Gran Chaco</em>, -8<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>PENNELL, H. C., <em>Fishing -Tackle</em>, 2<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Sporting Fish</em>, 15<em>s.</em> & 30<em>s.</em></p> - -<p><em>Penny Postage Jubilee</em>, 1<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>PERRY, <span class="smcap">Nora</span>, <em>Another Flock -of Girls</em>, illus. by Birch & Copeland, -7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p><em>Peru</em>, 3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em> Foreign Countries.</p> - -<p>PHELPS, E. S., <em>Struggle for -Immortality</em>, 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <span class="smcap">Samuel</span>, <em>Life</em>, by W. M. -Phelps and Forbes-Robertson, -12<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>PHILLIMORE, C. M., <em>Italian -Literature</em>, new. edit. 3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>PHILLIPPS, W. M., <em>English -Elegies</em>, 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>PHILLIPS, L. P., <em>Dictionary -of Biographical Reference</em>, new. -edit. 25<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— W., <em>Law of Insurance</em>, 2 -vols. 73<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>PHILPOT, H. J., <em>Diabetes -Mellitus</em>, 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Diet Tables</em>, 1<em>s.</em> each.</p> - -<p><em>Picture Gallery of British Art.</em> -I. to VI. 18<em>s.</em> each.</p> - -<p>—— <em>Modern Art</em>, 3 vols. 31<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em> -each.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_24a" id="Page_24a">[Pg 24]</a></span></p> - -<p>PINTO, <em>How I Crossed Africa</em>, -2 vols. 42<em>s.</em></p> - -<p><em>Playtime Library.</em> See Humphrey -and Huntingdon.</p> - -<p><em>Pleasant History of Reynard the -Fox</em>, trans. by T. Roscoe, illus. -7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>POCOCK, R., <em>Gravesend Historian</em>, -5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>POE, by E. C. Stedman, 3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Raven</em>, ill. by G. Dor, 63<em>s.</em></p> - -<p><em>Poems of the Inner Life</em>, 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p><em>Poetry of Nature.</em> See Choice -Editions.</p> - -<p><em>Poetry of the Anti-Jacobin</em>, 7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em> -and 21<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>POOLE, <em>Somerset Customs and -Legends</em>, 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— S. <span class="smcap">Lane</span>, <em>Egypt</em>, 3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em> -Foreign Countries.</p> - -<p>POPE, <em>Select Poetical Works</em>, -(Bernhard Tauchnitz Collection), -2<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>PORCHER, A., <em>Juvenile -French Plays</em>, 1<em>s.</em></p> - -<p><em>Portraits of Racehorses</em>, 4 vols. -126<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>POSSELT, <em>Structure of Fibres</em>, -63<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Textile Design</em>, illust. 28<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>POYNTER. See Illustrated -Text Books.</p> - -<p><em>Preachers of the Age</em>, 3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em> ea.</p> - -<p>Living Theology, by His Grace the -Archbishop of Canterbury.</p> - -<p>The Conquering Christ, by Rev. A. -Maclaren.</p> - -<p><em>Verbum Crucis</em>, by the Bishop of -Derry.</p> - -<p>Ethical Christianity, by H. P. -Hughes.</p> - -<p>Sermons, by Canon W. J. Knox-Little.</p> - -<p>Light and Peace, by H. R. Reynolds.</p> - -<p>Faith and Duty, by A. M. Fairbairn.</p> - -<p>Plain Words on Great Themes, by -J. O. Dykes.</p> - -<p>Sermons, by the Bishop of Ripon.</p> - -<p>Sermons, by Rev. C. H. Spurgeon.</p> - -<p><em>Agoni Christi</em>, by Dean Lefroy, of -Norwich.</p> - -<p>Sermons, by H. C. G. Moule, M.A.</p> - -<p><em>Volumes will follow in quick succession -by other well-known men.</em></p> - -<p><em>Prime Ministers</em>, a series of -political biographies, edited by -Stuart J. Reid, 3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em> each.</p> - -<blockquote> - -<p>1. Earl of Beaconsfield, by J. Anthony -Froude.</p> - -<p>2. Viscount Melbourne, by Henry -Dunckley ("<em>Verax</em>").</p> - -<p>3. Sir Robert Peel, by Justin -McCarthy.</p> - -<p>4. Viscount Palmerston, by the -Marquis of Lorne.</p> - -<p>5. Earl Russell, by Stuart J. Reid.</p> - -<p>6. Right Hon. W. E. Gladstone, by -G. W. E. Russell.</p> - -<p>7. Earl of Aberdeen, by Sir Arthur -Gordon.</p> - -<p>8. Marquis of Salisbury, by H. D. -Traill.</p> - -<p>9. Earl of Derby, by George Saintsbury.</p> - -<p><sup>*</sup><sub>*</sub><sup>*</sup> <em>An edition, limited to 250 copies, -is issued on hand-made paper, -medium 8vo, bound in half vellum, -cloth sides, gilt top. Price for the -9 vols. 4l. 4s. nett.</em></p></blockquote> - -<p><em>Prince Maskiloff.</em> See Low's -Standard Novels.</p> - -<p><em>Prince of Nursery Playmates</em>, -new edit. 2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>PRITT, T. N., <em>Country Trout -Flies</em>, 10<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p><em>Reynolds.</em> See Great Artists.</p> - -<p><em>Purcell.</em> See Great Musicians.</p> - -<p>QUILTER, H., <em>Giotto, Life</em>, -<em>&c.</em> 15<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>RAMBAUD, <em>History of Russia</em>, -new edit., 3 vols. 21<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>RAPHAEL. See Great Artists.</p> - -<p>REDFORD, <em>Sculpture</em>. See -Illustrated Text-books.</p> - -<p>REDGRAVE, <em>Engl. Painters</em>, -10<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em> and 12<em>s.</em></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_25a" id="Page_25a">[Pg 25]</a></span></p> - -<p>REED, <span class="smcap">Sir</span> E. J., <em>Modern Ships -of War</em>, 10<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— T. B., <em>Roger Ingleton, -Minor</em>, 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Sir Ludar.</em> See Low's -Standard Books.</p> - -<p>REID, <span class="smcap">Mayne</span>, <span class="smcap">Capt.</span>, <em>Stories -of Strange Adventures</em>, illust. 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <span class="smcap">Stuart J.</span> See Prime -Ministers.</p> - -<p>—— <span class="smcap">T. Wemyss</span>, <em>Land of the -Bey</em>, 10<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p><em>Remarkable Bindings in British -Museum</em>, 168<em>s.</em>; 94<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em>; 73<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em> -and 63<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>REMBRANDT. See Great Artists.</p> - -<p><em>Reminiscences of a Boyhood</em>, 6<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>REMUSAT, <em>Memoirs</em>, Vols. I. -and II. new ed. 16<em>s.</em> each.</p> - -<p>—— <em>Select Letters</em>, 16<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>REYNOLDS. See Gr. Artists.</p> - -<p>—— <span class="smcap">Henry R.</span>, <em>Light & Peace, -&c. Sermons</em>, 3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>RICHARDS, J. W., <em>Aluminium</em>, -new edit. 21<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>RICHARDSON, <em>Choice of -Books</em>, 3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>RICHTER, J. P., <em>Italian Art</em>, -42<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— See also Great Artists.</p> - -<p>RIDDELL. See Low's Standard -Novels.</p> - -<p>RIDEAL, <em>Women of the Time</em>, -14<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>RIFFAULT, <em>Colours for -Painting</em>, 31<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>RIIS, <em>How the Other Half -Lives</em>, 10<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>RIPON, <span class="smcap">Bp. of.</span> See Preachers.</p> - -<p>ROBERTS, <span class="smcap">Miss</span>, <em>France</em>. See -Foreign Countries.</p> - -<p>—— W., <em>English Bookselling</em>, -earlier history, 7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>ROBIDA, A., <em>Toilette</em>, coloured, -7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>ROBINSON, <em>"Romeo" Coates</em>, -7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Noah's Ark</em>, n. ed. 3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Sinners & Saints</em>, 10<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— See also Low's Standard -Series.</p> - -<p>—— <em>Wealth and its Sources</em>, -5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— W. C., <em>Law of Patents</em>, -3 vols. 105<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>ROCHEFOUCAULD. See -Bayard Series.</p> - -<p>ROCKSTRO, <em>History of Music</em>, -new ed. 14<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>RODRIGUES, <em>Panama Canal</em>, -5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>ROE, E. P. See Low's Standard -Series.</p> - -<p>ROGERS, S. See Choice -Editions.</p> - -<p>ROLFE, <em>Pompeii</em>, 7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p><em>Romantic Stories of the Legal -Profession</em>, 7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>ROMNEY. See Great Artists.</p> - -<p>ROOSEVELT, <span class="smcap">Blanche R.</span> -<em>Home Life of Longfellow</em>, 7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>ROSE, J., <em>Mechanical Drawing</em>, -16<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Practical Machinist</em>, new -ed. 12<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Key to Engines</em>, 8<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Modern Steam Engines</em>, -31<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Steam Boilers</em>, 12<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p><em>Rose Library.</em> Popular Literature -of all countries, per vol. 1<em>s.</em>, -unless the price is given.</p> - -<p>Alcott (L. M.) Eight Cousins, 2<em>s.</em>; -cloth, 3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— Jack and Jill, 2<em>s.</em>; cloth, 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— Jimmy's cruise in the <em>Pinafore</em>, -2<em>s.</em>; cloth, 3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— Little Women.</p> - -<p>—— Little Women Wedded; Nos. -4 and 5 in 1 vol. cloth, 3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— Little Men, 2<em>s.</em>; cloth gilt, -3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26a" id="Page_26a">[Pg 26]</a></span></p> -<p>Alcott (L. M.) Old-fashioned Girls, -2<em>s.</em>; cloth, 3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— Rose in Bloom, 2s.; cl. 3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— Silver Pitchers.</p> - -<p>—— Under the Lilacs, 2<em>s.</em>; cloth, -3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— Work, A Story of Experience, -2 vols. in 1, cloth, 3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>Stowe (Mrs.) Pearl of Orr's Island.</p> - -<p>—— Minister's Wooing.</p> - -<p>—— We and Our Neighbours, 2<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— My Wife and I, 2<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>Dodge (Mrs.) Hans Brinker, or, -The Silver Skates, 1<em>s.</em>; cloth, 5<em>s.</em>; -3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em>; 2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>Lowell (J. R.) My Study Windows.</p> - -<p>Holmes (Oliver Wendell) Guardian -Angel, cloth, 2<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>Warner (C. D.) My Summer in a -Garden, cloth, 2<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>Stowe (Mrs.) Dred, 2<em>s.</em>; cloth gilt, -3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>Carleton (W.) City Ballads, 2 vols. -in 1, cloth gilt, 2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— Legends, 2 vols. in 1, cloth -gilt, 2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— Farm Ballads, 6<em>d.</em> and 9<em>d.</em>; 3 -vols. in 1, cloth gilt, 3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— Farm Festivals, 3 vols. in 1, -cloth gilt, 3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— Farm Legends, 3 vols. in 1, -cloth gilt, 3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>Clients of Dr. Bernagius, 2 vols.</p> - -<p>Howells (W. D.) Undiscovered -Country.</p> - -<p>Clay (C. M.) Baby Rue.</p> - -<p>—— Story of Helen Troy.</p> - -<p>Whitney (Mrs.) Hitherto, 2 vols. -cloth, 3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>Fawcett (E.) Gentleman of Leisure.</p> - -<p>Butler, Nothing to Wear.</p> - -<p>ROSS, <span class="smcap">Mars</span>, <em>Cantabria</em>, 21<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>ROSSINI, &c., See Great -Musicians.</p> - -<p><em>Rothschilds</em>, by J. Reeves, 7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p><em>Roughing it after Gold</em>, by Rux, -new edit. 1<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>ROUSSELET. See Low's -Standard Books.</p> - -<p>ROWBOTHAM, F. J., <em>Prairie -Land</em>, 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p><em>Royal Naval Exhibition</em>, a souvenir, -illus. 1<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>RUBENS. See Great Artists.</p> - -<p>RUGGLES, H. J., <em>Shakespeare's -Method</em>, 7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>RUSSELL, G. W. E., <em>Gladstone.</em> -See Prime Ministers.</p> - -<p>—— W. <span class="smcap">Clark</span>, <em>Mrs. Dines' -Jewels</em>, 2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Nelson's Words and Deeds</em>, -3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Sailor's Language</em>, illus. -3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— See also Low's Standard -Novels and Sea Stories.</p> - -<p>—— W. <span class="smcap">Howard</span>, <em>Prince of -Wales' Tour</em>, illust. 52<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em> and -84<em>s.</em></p> - -<p><em>Russia.</em> See Foreign Countries.</p> - -<p><em>Saints and their Symbols</em>, 3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>SAINTSBURY, G., <em>Earl of -Derby</em>. See Prime Ministers.</p> - -<p>SAINTINE, <em>Picciola</em>, 2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em> -and 2<em>s.</em> See Low's Standard -Series.</p> - -<p>SALISBURY, <span class="smcap">Lord</span>. See Prime -Ministers.</p> - -<p>SAMUELS. See Low's Standard -Series.</p> - -<p>SANDARS, <em>German Primer</em>, 1<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>SANDEAU, <em>Seagull Rock</em>, 2<em>s.</em> -and 2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em> Low's Standard Series.</p> - -<p>SANDLANDS, <em>How to Develop -Vocal Power</em>, 1<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>SAUER, <em>European Commerce</em>, 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Italian Grammar</em> (Key, -2<em>s.</em>), 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Spanish Dialogues</em>, 2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Spanish Grammar</em> (Key, -2<em>s.</em>), 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Spanish Reader</em>, new edit. -3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>SAUNDERS, J., <em>Jaspar Deane</em>, -10<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27a" id="Page_27a">[Pg 27]</a></span></p> - -<p>SCHAACK, M. J., <em>Anarchy</em>, -16<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>SCHAUERMANN, <em>Ornament</em> -for technical schools, 10<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>SCHERER, <em>Essays in English -Literature</em>, by G. Saintsbury, 6<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>SCHERR, <em>English Literature</em>, -history, 8<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>SCHIILLER'S <em>Prosa</em>, selections -by Buchheim. Low's Series, 2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>SCHUBERT. See Great Musicians.</p> - -<p>SCHUMANN. See Great -Musicians.</p> - -<p>SCHWEINFURTH. See Low's -Standard Library.</p> - -<p><em>Scientific Education of Dogs</em>, 6<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>SCOTT, <span class="smcap">Leader</span>, <em>Renaissance -of Art in Italy</em>, 31<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— See also Illust. Text-books.</p> - -<p>—— <span class="smcap">Sir Gilbert</span>, <em>Autobiography</em>, -18<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— W. B. See Great Artists.</p> - -<p>SELMA, <span class="smcap">Robert</span>, <em>Poems</em>, 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>SERGEANT, L. See Foreign -Countries.</p> - -<p><em>Shadow of the Rock</em>, 2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>SHAFTESBURY. See English -Philosophers.</p> - -<p>SHAKESPEARE, ed. by R. G. -White, 3 vols. 36<em>s.</em>; <em>dit. de luxe</em>, -63<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Annals; Life & Work</em>, 2<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Hamlet</em>, 1603, <em>also</em> 1604, -7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Hamlet</em>, by Karl Elze, -12<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Heroines</em>, by living painters, -105<em>s.</em>; artists' proofs, 630<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Macbeth</em>, with etchings, -105<em>s.</em> and 52<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Songs and Sonnets.</em> See -Choice Editions.</p> - -<p>—— <em>Taming of the Shrew</em>, -adapted for drawing-room, paper -wrapper, 1<em>s.</em></p></blockquote> - -<blockquote> - -<p>SHEPHERD, British <em>School of -Painting</em>, 2nd edit. 5<em>s.</em>; 3rd edit. -sewed, 1<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>SHERIDAN, <em>Rivals</em>, col. plates, -52<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em> nett; art. pr. 105<em>s.</em> nett.</p> - -<p>SHIELDS, G. O., <em>Big Game -of North America</em>, 21<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Cruisings in the Cascades</em>, -10<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>SHOCK, W. H., <em>Steam Boilers</em>, -73<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>SIDNEY. See Gentle Life -Series.</p> - -<p><em>Silent Hour.</em> See Gentle Life -Series.</p> - -<p>SIMKIN, <em>Our Armies</em>, plates in -imitation of water-colour (5 parts -at 1<em>s.</em>), 6<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>SIMSON, <em>Ecuador and the -Putumayor</em>, 8<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>SKOTTOWE, <em>Hanoverian -Kings</em>, new edit. 3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>SLOANE, T. O., <em>Home Experiments</em>, -6<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>SMITH, HAMILTON, and -LEGROS' <em>French Dictionary</em>, 2 -vols. 16<em>s.</em>, 21<em>s.</em>, and 22<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>SMITH, EDWARD, <em>Cobbett</em>, 2 -vols. 24<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— G., <em>Assyria</em>, 18<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Chaldean Account of -Genesis</em>, new edit. by Sayce, 18<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <span class="smcap">Gerard.</span> See Illustrated -Text Books.</p> - -<p>—— <span class="smcap">T. Roger.</span> See Illustrated -Text Books.</p> - -<p><em>Socrates.</em> See Bayard Series.</p> - -<p>SOMERSET, <em>Our Village Life</em>, -5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p><em>Spain.</em> See Foreign Countries.</p> - -<p>SPAYTH, <em>Draught Player</em>, -new edit. 12<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>SPIERS, <em>French Dictionary</em>, -2 vols. 18<em>s.</em>, half bound, 2 vols., -21<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>SPRY. See Low's Stand. Library.</p></blockquote> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28a" id="Page_28a">[Pg 28]</a></span></p> - -<blockquote> - -<p>SPURGEON, C. H. See -Preachers.</p> - -<p>STANLEY, H. M., <em>Congo</em>, 2 -vols. 42<em>s.</em> and 21<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>In Darkest Africa</em>, 2 vols., -42<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Emin's Rescue</em>, 1<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— See also Low's Standard -Library and Low's Standard -Books.</p> - -<p>START, <em>Exercises in Mensuration</em>, -8<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>STEPHENS, F. G., <em>Celebrated -Flemish and French Pictures</em>, -with notes, 28<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— See also Great Artists.</p> - -<p>STERNE. See Bayard Series.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">STERRY, J. Ashby</span>, <em>Cucumber -Chronicles</em>, 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>STEUART, J. A., <em>Letters to -Living Authors</em>, new edit. 2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em>; -<em>dit. de luxe</em>, 10<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— See also Low's Standard -Novels.</p> - -<p>STEVENS, J. W., <em>Practical -Workings of the Leather Manufacture</em>, -illust. 18<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— T., <em>Around the World on -a Bicycle</em>, over 100 illust. 16<em>s.</em>; -part II. 16<em>s.</em></p> - -<p><span class="smcap">STEWART, Dugald</span>, <em>Outlines -of Moral Philosophy</em>, 3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>STOCKTON, F. R., <em>Casting -Away of Mrs. Leeks</em>, 1<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>The Dusantes</em>, a sequel, 1<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Merry Chanter</em>, 2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Personally Conducted</em>, -illust. by Joseph Pennell, 7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Rudder Grangers Abroad</em>, -2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Squirrel Inn</em>, illust. 6<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Story of Viteau</em>, illust. 5<em>s.</em> -new edit. 3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Three Burglars</em>, 1<em>s.</em> & 2<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— See also Low's Standard -Novels.</p></blockquote> - -<blockquote> - -<p>STORER, F. H., <em>Agriculture</em>, -2 vols., 25<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>STOWE, <span class="smcap">Edwin</span>. See Great -Artists.</p> - -<p>—— <span class="smcap">Mrs.</span>, <em>Flowers and Fruit -from Her Writings</em>, 3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Life ... her own Words -... Letters and Original Composition</em>, -15<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Life</em>, told for boys and -girls, by S. A. Tooley, 5<em>s.</em>, new -edit. 2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em> and 2<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Little Foxes</em>, cheap edit. -1<em>s.</em>; 4<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Minister's Wooing</em>, 1<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Pearl of Orr's Island</em>, -3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em> and 1<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Uncle Tom's Cabin</em>, with -126 new illust. 2 vols. 18<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— See also Low's Standard -Novels and Low's Standard Series.</p> - -<p>STRACHAN, J., <em>New Guinea</em>, -12<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>STRANAHAN, <em>French Painting</em>, -21<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>STRICKLAND, F., <em>Engadine</em>, -new edit. 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>STUTFIELD, <em>El Maghreb</em>, -ride through Morocco, 8<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>SUMNER, C., <em>Memoir</em>, new -edit. 2 vols. 36<em>s.</em></p> - -<p><em>Sweden and Norway.</em> See -Foreign Countries.</p> - -<p><em>Sylvanus Redivivus</em>, 10<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>SZCZEPANSKI, <em>Technical -Literature</em>, a directory, 2<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>TAINE, H. A., <em>Origines</em>, -I. Ancient Rgime, French Revolution, -3 vols.; Modern Rgime, -vol. I. 16<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>TAYLOR, H., <em>English Constitution</em>, -18<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— R. L., <em>Analysis Tables</em>, 1<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Chemistry</em>, 1<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p><em>Techno-Chemical Receipt Book</em>, -10<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29a" id="Page_29a">[Pg 29]</a></span></p> - -<p>TENNYSON. See Choice -Editions.</p> - -<p><em>Ten Years of a Sailor's Life</em>, -7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>THAUSING, <em>Malt and Beer</em>, -45<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>THEAKSTON, <em>British Angling -Flies</em>, 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p><em>Thomas Kempis Birthday-Book</em>, -3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Daily Text-Book</em>, 2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— See also Gentle Life Series.</p> - -<p>THOMAS, <span class="smcap">Bertha</span>, <em>House on -the Scar, Tale of South Devon</em>, 6<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>THOMSON, <span class="smcap">Joseph</span>. See Low's -Standard Library and Low's -Standard Novels.</p> - -<p>—— W., <em>Algebra</em>, 5<em>s.</em>; without -Answers, 4<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em>; Key, 1<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>THORNTON, <span class="smcap">W. Pugin</span>, -<em>Heads, and what they tell us</em>, 1<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>THORODSEN, J. P., <em>Lad and -Lass</em>, 6<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>TICKNOR, G., <em>Memoir</em>, new -edit., 2 vols. 21<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>TILESTON, <span class="smcap">Mary W.</span>, <em>Daily -Strength</em>. 4<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>TINTORETTO. See Great -Artists.</p> - -<p>TITIAN. See Great Artists.</p> - -<p>TODD, <em>Life</em>, by J. E. Todd, 12<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>TOURGEE. See Low's Standard -Novels.</p> - -<p>TOY, C. H., <em>Judaism</em>, 14<em>s.</em></p> - -<p><em>Tracks in Norway</em>, 2<em>s.</em>, n. ed. 1<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>TRAILL. See Prime Ministers.</p> - -<p><em>Transactions of the Hong Kong -Medical Society</em>, vol. I. 12<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>TROMHOLT, <em>Aurora Borealis</em>, -2 vols., 30<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>TUCKER, <em>Eastern Europe</em>, 15<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>TUCKERMAN, B., <em>English -Fiction</em>, 8<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Lafayette</em>, 2 vols. 12<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>TURNER, J. M. W. See Gr. -Artists.</p> - -<p>TYSON, <em>Arctic Adventures</em>, 25<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>TYTLER, <span class="smcap">Sarah</span>. See Low's -Standard Novels.</p> - -<p>—— M. C., <em>American Literature</em>, -vols. I. and II. 24<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>UPTON, H., <em>Dairy Farming</em>, -2<em>s.</em></p> - -<p><em>Valley Council</em>, by P. Clarke, 6<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>VANDYCK and HALS. See -Great Artists.</p> - -<p>VANE, <span class="smcap">Denzil</span>, <em>Lynn's Court -Mystery</em>, 1<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— See also Low's Standard -Novels.</p> - -<p><em>Vane, Young Sir Harry</em>, 18<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>VELAZQUEZ. See Gr. Artists.</p> - -<p>—— and MURILLO, by C. B. -Curtis, with etchings, 31<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em> and -63<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>VERE, <span class="smcap">Sir F.</span>, <em>Fighting Veres</em>, -18<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>VERNE, J., <em>Works by</em>. See -page 31.</p> - -<p><em>Vernet and Delaroche.</em> See -Great Artists.</p> - -<p>VERSCHUUR, G., <em>At the Antipodes</em>, -7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>VIGNY, <em>Cinq Mars</em>, with -etchings, 2 vols. 30<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>VINCENT, F., <em>Through and -through the Tropics</em>, 10<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <span class="smcap">Mrs. H.</span>, <em>40,000 Miles -over Land and Water</em>, 2 vols. 21<em>s.</em>; -also 3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>VIOLLET-LE-DUC, <em>Architecture</em>, -2 vols. 31<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em> each.</p> - -<p>WAGNER. See Gr. Musicians.</p> - -<p>WALERY, <em>Our Celebrities</em>, -vol. II. part i., 30<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>WALFORD, <span class="smcap">Mrs. L. B.</span> See -Low's Standard Novels.</p> - -<p>WALL, <em>Tombs of the Kings -of England</em>, 21<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>WALLACE, L., <em>Ben Hur</em>, 2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Boyhood of Christ</em>, 15<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— See also Low's Stand. Novs.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30a" id="Page_30a">[Pg 30]</a></span></p> - -<p>WALLACE, R., <em>Rural Economy -of Australia and New Zealand</em>, -illust. 21<em>s.</em> nett.</p> - -<p>WALLER, C. H., <em>Names on -the Gates of Pearl</em>, 3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Silver Sockets</em>, 6<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>WALTON, <em>Angler</em>, Lea and -Dove edit. by R. B. Marston, -with photos., 210<em>s.</em> and 105<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Wallet-book</em>, 21<em>s.</em> & 42<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— T. H., <em>Coal-mining</em>, 25<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>WARNER, C. D., <em>Their Pilgrimage</em>, -illust. by C. S. Reinhard, -7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— See also Low's Standard -Novels and Low's Standard Series.</p> - -<p>WARREN, W. F., <em>Paradise -Found, Cradle of the Human Race</em>, -illust. 12<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>WASHBURNE, <em>Recollections</em> -(<em>Siege of Paris, &c.</em>), 2 vols. 36<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>WATTEAU. See Great Artists.</p> - -<p>WEBER. See Great Musicians.</p> - -<p>WEBSTER, <em>Spain</em>. See Foreign -Countries and British Colonies.</p> - -<p>WELLINGTON. See Bayard -Series.</p> - -<p>WELLS, H. P., <em>Salmon Fisherman</em>, -6<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Fly-rods and Tackle</em>, -10<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— J. W., <em>Brazil</em>, 2 vols. -32<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>WENZEL, <em>Chemical Products -of the German Empire</em>, 25<em>s.</em></p> - -<p><em>West Indies.</em> See Foreign -Countries.</p> - -<p>WESTGARTH, <em>Australasian -Progress</em>, 12<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>WESTOBY, <em>Postage Stamps; -a descriptive Catalogue</em>, 6<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>WHITE, <span class="smcap">Rhoda E.</span>, <em>From Infancy -to Womanhood</em>, 10<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <span class="smcap">R. Grant</span>, <em>England without -and within</em>, new ed. 10<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Every-day English</em>, 10<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p></blockquote> - -<blockquote> - -<p>WHITE, <span class="smcap">R. Grant</span>, <em>Studies in -Shakespeare</em>, 10<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Words and their Uses</em>, -new edit. 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— W., <em>Our English Homer, -Shakespeare and his Plays</em>, 6<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>WHITNEY, <span class="smcap">Mrs.</span> See Low's -Standard Series.</p> - -<p>WHITTIER, <em>St. Gregory's -Guest</em>, 5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Text and Verse for Every -Day in the Year</em>, selections, 1<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>WHYTE, <em>Asia to Europe</em>, 12<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>WIKOFF, <em>Four Civilizations</em>, 6<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>WILKES, G., <em>Shakespeare</em>, 16<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>WILKIE. See Great Artists.</p> - -<p>WILLS, <em>Persia as it is</em>, 8<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>WILSON, <em>Health for the People</em>, -7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>WINDER, <em>Lost in Africa</em>. See -Low's Standard Books.</p> - -<p>WINSOR, J., <em>Columbus</em>, 21<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>History of America</em>, 8 vols. -per vol. 30<em>s.</em> and 63<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>WITTHAUS, <em>Chemistry</em>, 16<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>WOOD, <em>Sweden and Norway</em>. -See Foreign Countries.</p> - -<p>WOLLYS, <em>Vegetable Kingdom</em>, -5<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>WOOLSEY, <em>Communism and -Socialism</em>, 7<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>International Law</em>, 6th ed. -18<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— <em>Political Science</em>, 2 vols. -30<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>WOOLSON, <span class="smcap">C. Fenimore</span>. -See Low's Standard Novels.</p> - -<p>WORDSWORTH. See Choice -Editions.</p> - -<p><em>Wreck of the "Grosvenor,"</em> 6<em>d.</em></p> - -<p>WRIGHT, H., <em>Friendship of -God</em>, 6<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>—— T., <em>Town of Cowper</em>, 6<em>s.</em></p> - -<p>WRIGLEY, <em>Algiers Illust.</em> 45<em>s.</em></p> - -<p><em>Written to Order</em>, 6<em>s.</em></p></blockquote> -</div> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31a" id="Page_31a">[Pg 31]</a></span></p> - - - - -<h3><a name="BOOKS_BY_JULES_VERNE" id="BOOKS_BY_JULES_VERNE"></a>BOOKS BY JULES VERNE.</h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="0" summary="JULES_VERNE"> -<thead> -<tr> - <td class="tdc bb"><span class="smcap">Large Crown 8vo.</span></td> - <td class="tdl bb bl">{</td> - <td class="tdc bra bb" colspan="4">Containing 350 to 600 pp.<br /> and from 50 to 100<br /> full-page illustrations.</td> - <td class="tdc bb" colspan="4">Containing the whole of the<br /> text with some illustrations.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdc bb">WORKS.</td> - <td class="tdc br bb bl" colspan="3">Handsome<br /> cloth binding,<br /> gilt edges.</td> - <td class="tdc bra bb" colspan="2">Plainer<br /> binding,<br /> plain edges.</td> - <td class="tdc br bb" colspan="2">Cloth binding,<br /> gilt edges,<br /> smaller type.</td> - <td class="tdc bb" colspan="2">Limp cloth.</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td> </td> - <td class="tdc bl" colspan="2"><i>s.</i></td> - <td class="tdl br"><i>d.</i></td> - <td class="tdc"><i>s.</i></td> - <td class="tdl bra"><i>d.</i></td> - <td class="tdc"><i>s.</i></td> - <td class="tdl br"><i>d.</i></td> - <td class="tdc"><i>s.</i></td> - <td class="tdl"><i>d.</i></td> -</tr> -</thead> -<tbody> -<tr> - <td class="tdl br">20,000 Leagues under the Sea.</td> - <td class="tdl">}</td> - <td class="tdl" rowspan="2">10</td> - <td class="tdl br" rowspan="2">6</td> - <td class="tdc" rowspan="2">5</td> - <td class="tdl bra" rowspan="2">0</td> - <td class="tdc" rowspan="2">3</td> - <td class="tdl br" rowspan="2">6</td> - <td class="tdc" rowspan="2">2</td> - <td class="tdl" rowspan="2">0</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdla br">Parts I. and II.</td> - <td class="tdl">}</td> <td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl br">Hector Servadac</td> - <td> </td> - <td class="tdl">10</td> - <td class="tdl br">6</td> - <td class="tdc">5</td> - <td class="tdl bra">0</td> - <td class="tdc">3</td> - <td class="tdl br">6</td> - <td class="tdc">2</td> - <td class="tdl">0</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl br">The Fur Country</td> - <td> </td> - <td class="tdl">10</td> - <td class="tdl br">6</td> - <td class="tdc">5</td> - <td class="tdl bra">0</td> - <td class="tdc">3</td> - <td class="tdl br">6</td> - <td class="tdc">2</td> - <td class="tdl">0</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl br">The Earth to the Moon and a</td> - <td class="tdl">}</td> - <td class="tdl">10</td> - <td class="tdl br">6</td> - <td class="tdc">5</td> - <td class="tdl bra">0</td> - <td class="tdc br" colspan="2">{ 2 vols.,</td> - <td class="tdc">2 vols.,</td> - <td class="tdl"> }</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl br">Trip round it</td> - <td class="tdl">}</td> - <td> </td> - <td class="tdl br"> </td> - <td> </td> - <td class="tdl bra"> </td> - <td class="tdc br" colspan="2">{ 2<i>s.</i> ea.</td> - <td class="tdc">1<i>s.</i> ea.</td> - <td class="tdl"> }</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl br">Michael Strogoff</td> - <td> </td> - <td class="tdl">10</td> - <td class="tdl br">6</td> - <td class="tdc">5</td> - <td class="tdl bra">0</td> - <td class="tdc">3</td> - <td class="tdl br">6</td> - <td class="tdc">2</td> - <td class="tdl">0</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl br">Dick Sands, the Boy Captain</td> - <td> </td> - <td class="tdl">10</td> - <td class="tdl br">6</td> - <td class="tdc">5</td> - <td class="tdl bra">0</td> - <td class="tdc">3</td> - <td class="tdl br">6</td> - <td class="tdc">2</td> - <td class="tdl">0</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl br">Five Weeks in a Balloon</td> - <td> </td> - <td class="tdl">7</td> - <td class="tdl br">6</td> - <td class="tdc">3</td> - <td class="tdl bra">6</td> - <td class="tdc">2</td> - <td class="tdl br">0</td> - <td class="tdc">1</td> - <td class="tdl">0</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl br">Adventures of<br /> Three Englishmen<br /> and Three Russians</td> - <td class="tdl">}</td> - <td class="tdl">7</td> - <td class="tdl br">6</td> - <td class="tdc">3</td> - <td class="tdl bra">6</td> - <td class="tdc">2</td> - <td class="tdl br">0</td> - <td class="tdc">1</td> - <td class="tdl">0</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl br">Round the World in Eighty Days</td> - <td> </td> - <td class="tdl">7</td> - <td class="tdl br">6</td> - <td class="tdc">3</td> - <td class="tdl bra">6</td> - <td class="tdc">2</td> - <td class="tdl br">0</td> - <td class="tdc">1</td> - <td class="tdl">0</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl br">A Floating City</td> - <td class="tdl">}</td> - <td class="tdl" rowspan="2">7</td> - <td class="tdl br" rowspan="2">6</td> - <td class="tdc" rowspan="2">3</td> - <td class="tdl bra" rowspan="2">6</td> - <td class="td ">{2</td> - <td class="tdl br">0</td> - <td class="tdc">1</td> - <td class="tdl">0</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl br">The Blockade Runners</td> - <td class="tdl">}</td> - <td class="td ">{2</td> - <td class="tdl br">0</td> - <td class="tdc">1</td> - <td class="tdl">0</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl br">Dr. Ox's Experiment</td> - <td> </td> - <td class="tdc br" colspan="2">—</td> - <td class="tdc bra" colspan="2">—</td> - <td class="tdc">2</td> - <td class="tdl br">0</td> - <td class="tdc">1</td> - <td class="tdl">0</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl br">A Winter amid the Ice</td> - <td> </td> - <td class="tdc br" colspan="2">—</td> - <td class="tdc bra" colspan="2">—</td> - <td class="tdc">2</td> - <td class="tdl br">0</td> - <td class="tdc">1</td> - <td class="tdl">0</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl br">Survivors of the "Chancellor"</td> - <td class="tdl" rowspan="2">}</td> - <td class="tdl" rowspan="2">7</td> - <td class="tdl br" rowspan="2">6</td> - <td class="tdc" rowspan="2">3</td> - <td class="tdl bra" rowspan="2">6</td> - <td class="tdc">{3</td> - <td class="tdl br">6</td> - <td class="tdc">{2</td> - <td class="tdl">0</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl br">Martin Paz</td> - <td class="tdc">{2</td> - <td class="tdl br">0</td> - <td class="tdc">{1</td> - <td class="tdl">0</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl br">The Mysterious Island, 3 vols.:— </td> - <td>}</td> - <td class="tdl">22</td> - <td class="tdl br">6</td> - <td class="tdc">10</td> - <td class="tdl bra">6</td> - <td class="tdc">6</td> - <td class="tdl br">0</td> - <td class="tdc">3</td> - <td class="tdl">0</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdla br">I. Dropped from the Clouds</td> - <td class="tdl">}</td> - <td class="tdl">7</td> - <td class="tdl br">6</td> - <td class="tdc">3</td> - <td class="tdl bra">6</td> - <td class="tdc">2</td> - <td class="tdl br">0</td> - <td class="tdc">1</td> - <td class="tdl">0</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdla br">II. Abandoned</td> - <td class="tdl">}</td> - <td class="tdl">7</td> - <td class="tdl br">6</td> - <td class="tdc">3</td> - <td class="tdl bra">6</td> - <td class="tdc">2</td> - <td class="tdl br">0</td> - <td class="tdc">1</td> - <td class="tdl">0</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdla br">III. Secret of the Island</td> - <td class="tdl">}</td> - <td class="tdl">7</td> - <td class="tdl br">6</td> - <td class="tdc">3</td> - <td class="tdl bra">6</td> - <td class="tdc">2</td> - <td class="tdl br">0</td> - <td class="tdc">1</td> - <td class="tdl">0</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl br">The Child of the Cavern</td> - <td> </td> - <td class="tdl">7</td> - <td class="tdl br">6</td> - <td class="tdc">3</td> - <td class="tdl bra">6</td> - <td class="tdc">2</td> - <td class="tdl br">0</td> - <td class="tdc">1</td> - <td class="tdl">0</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl br">The Begum's Fortune</td> - <td> </td> - <td class="tdl">7</td> - <td class="tdl br">6</td> - <td class="tdc">3</td> - <td class="tdl bra">6</td> - <td class="tdc">2</td> - <td class="tdl br">0</td> - <td class="tdc">1</td> - <td class="tdl">0</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl br">The Tribulations of a Chinaman</td> - <td> </td> - <td class="tdl">7</td> - <td class="tdl br">6</td> - <td class="tdc">3</td> - <td class="tdl bra">6</td> - <td class="tdc">2</td> - <td class="tdl br">0</td> - <td class="tdc">1</td> - <td class="tdl">0</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl br">The Steam House, 2 vols.:—<br /> I. Demon of Cawnpore</td> - <td class="tdl">}</td> - <td class="tdl">7</td> - <td class="tdl br">6</td> - <td class="tdc">3</td> - <td class="tdl bra">6</td> - <td class="tdc">2</td> - <td class="tdl br">0</td> - <td class="tdc">1</td> - <td class="tdl">0</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdla br">II. Tigers and Traitors</td> - <td class="tdl">}</td> - <td class="tdl">7</td> - <td class="tdl br">6</td> - <td class="tdc">3</td> - <td class="tdl bra">6</td> - <td class="tdc">2</td> - <td class="tdl br">0</td> - <td class="tdc">1</td> - <td class="tdl">0</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl br">The Giant Raft, 2 vols.:—<br /> I. 800 Leagues on the Amazon</td> - <td class="tdl">}</td> - <td class="tdl">7</td> - <td class="tdl br">6</td> - <td class="tdc">3</td> - <td class="tdl bra">6</td> - <td class="tdc">2</td> - <td class="tdl br">0</td> - <td class="tdc">1</td> - <td class="tdl">0</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdla br">II. The Cryptogram</td> - <td class="tdl">}</td> - <td class="tdl">7</td> - <td class="tdl br">6</td> - <td class="tdc">3</td> - <td class="tdl bra">6</td> - <td class="tdc">2</td> - <td class="tdl br">0</td> - <td class="tdc">1</td> - <td class="tdl">0</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl br">The Green Ray</td> - <td> </td> - <td class="tdl">5</td> - <td class="tdl br">0</td> - <td class="tdc">3</td> - <td class="tdl bra">6</td> - <td class="tdc">2</td> - <td class="tdl br">0</td> - <td class="tdc">1</td> - <td class="tdl">0</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl br">Godfrey Morgan</td> - <td> </td> - <td class="tdl">7</td> - <td class="tdl br">6</td> - <td class="tdc">3</td> - <td class="tdl bra">6</td> - <td class="tdc">2</td> - <td class="tdl br">0</td> - <td class="tdc">1</td> - <td class="tdl">0</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl br">Kraban the Inflexible:—<br /> I. Captain of the "Guidara"</td> - <td class="tdl">}</td> - <td class="tdl">7</td> - <td class="tdl br">6</td> - <td class="tdc">3</td> - <td class="tdl bra">6</td> - <td class="tdc">2</td> - <td class="tdl br">0</td> - <td class="tdc">1</td> - <td class="tdl">0</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdla br">II. Scarpante the Spy</td> - <td class="tdl">}</td> - <td class="tdl">7</td> - <td class="tdl br">6</td> - <td class="tdc">3</td> - <td class="tdl bra">6</td> - <td class="tdc">2</td> - <td class="tdl br">0</td> - <td class="tdc">1</td> - <td class="tdl">0</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl br">The Archipelago on Fire</td> - <td> </td> - <td class="tdl">7</td> - <td class="tdl br">6</td> - <td class="tdc">3</td> - <td class="tdl bra">6</td> - <td class="tdc">2</td> - <td class="tdl br">0</td> - <td class="tdc">1</td> - <td class="tdl">0</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl br">The Vanished Diamond</td> - <td> </td> - <td class="tdl">7</td> - <td class="tdl br">6</td> - <td class="tdc">3</td> - <td class="tdl bra">6</td> - <td class="tdc">2</td> - <td class="tdl br">0</td> - <td class="tdc">1</td> - <td class="tdl">0</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl br">Mathias Sandorf</td> - <td> </td> - <td class="tdl">10</td> - <td class="tdl br">6</td> - <td class="tdc">5</td> - <td class="tdl bra">0</td> - <td class="tdc">3</td> - <td class="tdl br">6</td> - <td class="tdc">2 vols 1</td> - <td class="tdl">0 each</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl br">Lottery Ticket</td> - <td> </td> - <td class="tdl">7</td> - <td class="tdl br">6</td> - <td class="tdc">3</td> - <td class="tdl bra">6</td> - <td class="tdc">2</td> - <td class="tdl br">0</td> - <td class="tdc">1</td> - <td class="tdl">0</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl br">The Clipper of the Clouds</td> - <td> </td> - <td class="tdl">7</td> - <td class="tdl br">6</td> - <td class="tdc">3</td> - <td class="tdl bra">6</td> - <td class="tdc">2</td> - <td class="tdl br">0</td> - <td class="tdc">1</td> - <td class="tdl">0</td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl br">North against South</td> - <td> </td> - <td class="tdl">7</td> - <td class="tdl br">6</td> - <td class="tdc">3</td> - <td class="tdl bra">6</td> - <td> </td> - <td> </td> - <td> </td> - <td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl br">Adrift in the Pacific</td> - <td> </td> - <td class="tdl">6</td> - <td class="tdl br">0</td> - <td class="tdc">3</td> - <td class="tdl bra">6</td> - <td> </td> - <td> </td> - <td> </td> - <td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl br">The Flight to France</td> - <td> </td> - <td class="tdl">7</td> - <td class="tdl br">6</td> - <td class="tdc">3</td> - <td class="tdl bra">6</td> - <td> </td> - <td> </td> - <td> </td> - <td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl br">The Purchase of the North Pole</td> - <td> </td> - <td class="tdl">6</td> - <td class="tdl br">0</td> - <td> </td> - <td class="tdl bra"> </td> - <td> </td> - <td> </td> - <td> </td> - <td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl br">A Family without a Name</td> - <td> </td> - <td class="tdl">6</td> - <td class="tdl br">0</td> - <td> </td> - <td class="tdl bra"> </td> - <td> </td> - <td> </td> - <td> </td> - <td> </td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl br">Csar Cascabel</td> - <td> </td> - <td class="tdl">6</td> - <td class="tdl br">0</td> - <td> </td> - <td class="tdl bra"> </td> - <td> </td> - <td> </td> - <td> </td> - <td> </td> -</tr> -</tbody> -</table> -</div> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<blockquote><p><span class="smcap">Celebrated Travels and Travellers.</span> 3 vols. 8vo, 600 pp., 100 full-page illustrations, 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>, -gilt edges, 9<i>s.</i> each:—(1) <span class="smcap">The Exploration of the World.</span> (2) <span class="smcap">The Great Navigators of the -Eighteenth Century.</span> (3) <span class="smcap">The Great Explorers of the Nineteenth Century.</span></p></blockquote> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_32a" id="Page_32a">[Pg 32]</a></span></p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<div class="add"> -<p class="p7b">PERIODICAL PUBLICATIONS</p> - -<p class="p1c">OF</p> - -<p class="p8b">Sampson Low, Marston & Company, Ld.</p> - -<hr class="r10" /> -<p class="p7g">SCRIBNER'S MAGAZINE.</p> - -<p class="p5a">A Superb Illustrated Monthly. <span class="mleft2">Price One Shilling.</span></p> - -<blockquote><p>Containing Contributions from the pens of many well-known Authors, -among whom may be mentioned Thomas Bailey Aldrich, Sir Edwin -Arnold, Andrew Lang, Sarah Orme Jewett, H. M. Stanley, Robert Louis -Stevenson, R. H. Stoddard, Frank R. Stockton.</p></blockquote> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<p class="p7g">THE NINETEENTH CENTURY.</p> - -<p class="p5a">A MONTHLY REVIEW. <span class="mleft2">Edited by JAMES KNOWLES.</span></p> - -<p class="p5a">Price Half-a-Crown.</p> - -<blockquote><p>Amongst the contributors the following representative names may be -mentioned:—Lord Tennyson, the Right Hon. W. E. Gladstone, Cardinal -Manning, Mr. J. A. Fronde, Mr. Ruskin, Mr. G. A. Watts, R.A., Earl -Grey, the Earl of Derby, Lord Acton, Mr. Herbert Spencer, Mr. Frederick -Harrison, Mr. Algernon C. Swinburne, Mr. Leslie Stephen, Professor -Huxley, Sir Theodore Martin, Sir Edward Hamley, Professor Goldwin -Smith, and Sir Samuel Baker.</p></blockquote> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<p class="p7g">THE PUBLISHERS' CIRCULAR,</p> - -<p class="center"><strong>AND</strong></p> - -<p class="p5a">BOOKSELLERS' RECORD OF BRITISH & FOREIGN LITERATURE.</p> - -<p class="p5a">WEEKLY. <span class="mleft1">Every Saturday.</span> <span class="mleft1">Price Three-Halfpence.</span></p> - - -<p class="p5a">SUBSCRIPTION.</p> - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="SUBSCRIPTION"> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Inland</td> - <td class="tdl">Twelve Months (post free)</td> - <td class="tdl">8<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></td> -</tr> -<tr> - <td class="tdl">Countries in the Postal Union </td> - <td class="tdl"><span class="mleft2">"</span> <span class="mleft2">"</span> <span class="mleft3">"</span></td> - <td class="tdl">11<i>s.</i> 0<i>d.</i></td> -</tr> -</table></div> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<p class="p7g">THE FISHING GAZETTE.</p> - -<p class="p7d">A Journal for Anglers.</p> - -<p class="p5a">Edited by R. B. MARSTON, Hon. Treas. of the Fly Fishers' Club.</p> - -<p class="p5a">Published Weekly, price 2d. <span class="mleft2">Subscription, 10s. 6d. per annum.</span></p> - -<p>The <cite>Gazette</cite> contains every week Twenty folio pages of Original Articles -on Angling of every kind. The paper has recently been much enlarged -and improved.</p> - -<p>"Under the editorship of Mr. R. B. Marston the <cite>Gazette</cite> has attained a high standing."—<cite>Daily -News.</cite> <span class="mleft1">"An excellent paper."—</span><cite>The World.</cite></p> - -<hr class="tb" /> -<p class="center"><strong><span class="smcap">London</span>: SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON & COMPANY, <span class="smcap">Limited</span>,<br /> -<span class="smcap">St. Dunstan's House, Fetter Lane, Fleet Street, E.C.</span></strong></p> -</div> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<div class="footnotes"><h4>FOOTNOTES:</h4> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> Licence has been taken somewhat to alter the route -actually travelled in the Maritime Provinces, so as to fit it in -better as a continuation of my previous book, "Forty -Thousand Miles over Land and Water."</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_2_2" id="Footnote_2_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> The figures are expressed in yen as being more accurate than -the taking of an arbitrary rate of exchange, when it is constantly -varying to the great inconvenience of commerce. A Japanese -yen or dollar fluctuates in value between 3<i>s.</i> 2<i>d.</i> to 3<i>s.</i> 4<i>d.</i> An -average of 6 dollars 20 cents. is usually obtained for the sovereign.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_3_3" id="Footnote_3_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> A Chinese literate, who had been to Paris for study, expressed -his opinions of Europe in the following terms. He freely acknowledged -the superiority of our intellectual enterprise, without being -at all persuaded that it was a thing for which we were to be -envied:—"The eyes of your intelligence," he used to say, "are -more piercing than ours, but you look so far that you do not see -about you. You have a bold spirit which must make you successful -in many things; but you have not enough respect for what -deserves to be respected. This perpetual agitation in which you -live, this constant want of diversion, clearly indicates that you -are not happy. With you, a man is always as if he were on a -journey, whereas we like to be at rest. As to your governments, I -am willing to believe they have some good in them; but if they -suited you as well as ours suits us, you would not change them -so often as you do. I am quite sure to find, when I go back to -my country, the same institutions as when I left it; and I see -that not one of you would guarantee me, for even a couple of years, -the solidarity of your government as it is to-day."</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_4_4" id="Footnote_4_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4_4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a> Owing to the multitudes of men who find employment in China -by tracking or towing junks and boats up and down the rivers, -canals, and other waterways, once in a splendid condition, but now -much neglected, as also in carrying tea, salt, and other produce on -their backs, over paths inaccessible to horse or cart, there is as -much, or more, popular prejudice against railways as prevailed -in England 60 years ago. One writer says:—"Whenever the -effects of our scientific machinery in abridging labour are explained -to a Chinaman, the first idea that strikes him is the disastrous effect -that such a system would work upon his over-peopled country, if -suddenly introduced into it, and he never fails to deprecate such -an innovation as the most calamitous of visitations."</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_5_5" id="Footnote_5_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_5_5"><span class="label">[5]</span></a> It is very common to find that Chinese, meeting on board ship, -or elsewhere, with distant countrymen, are obliged to resort to -"Pidgeon" or English business jargon as their only means of -linguistic communication.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_6_6" id="Footnote_6_6"></a><a href="#FNanchor_6_6"><span class="label">[6]</span></a> Her Majesty's fleet round China and Japan consists, exclusive -of torpedo boats, of 22 ships, aggregating 45,100 tons, with 137 -large guns. The next naval power is Russia, with 8 ships and -18,100 tons, and 61 guns. The Japanese have 29 vessels; the -Chinese 20, but all with native officers.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_7_7" id="Footnote_7_7"></a><a href="#FNanchor_7_7"><span class="label">[7]</span></a> <em>Are not yet published.</em></p></div> -</div> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<div class="transnote"> -<p class="p4a">Transcriber notes:</p> - -<p>P. <a href="#Page_15">15</a>. 'these flakes are formd', changed formd to 'formed'.<br /> -P. <a href="#Page_169">169</a>. 'we came aross', changed 'aross' to 'across'.<br /> -P. <a href="#Page_170">170</a>. 'pink and white' in another edition, missing 'and'.<br /> -P. <a href="#Page_174">174</a>. 'Fugiyama' & 'Fugi', changed to 'Fujiama' & Fuji'.<br /> -P. <a href="#Page_195">195</a>. 'Fugi' changed to 'Fuji'.<br /> -P. <a href="#Page_214">214</a>. 'instal themselves', changed 'instal' to 'install'.<br /> -P. <a href="#Page_266">266</a>. 'our ominibus' changed to 'ominibus' to 'omnibus'.<br /> -P. <a href="#Page_276">276</a>. 'A clepsdra', changed 'clepsra' to 'clepsidra'.<br /> -P. <a href="#Page_286">286</a>. 'return home' in another edition, missing 'home'.<br /> -P. <a href="#Page_287">287</a>. 'reputed ro receive' changed 'ro' to 'to'.<br /> -P. <a href="#Page_289">289</a>. 'Thibet sheep' changed 'Thibet' to 'Tibet'.<br /> -P. <a href="#Page_315">315</a>. 'purple buganvillea', changed 'buganvillea' to 'bougainvillea'.<br /> -P. <a href="#Page_315">315</a>. 'and convolvolus', changed 'convolvolus' to 'convolvulus'.<br /> -P. <a href="#Page_319">319</a>. 'high tortoisehell', changed 'tortoisehell' to 'tortoiseshell'.<br /> -P. <a href="#Page_340">340</a>. 'credited to Great Britian', changed 'Britian' to 'Britain'.<br /> -P. <a href="#Page_341">341</a>. 'and tubes Great Britian', changed 'Britian' to 'Britain'.<br /> -P. <a href="#Page_363">363</a>. 'at Shangai', changed 'Shangai' to 'Shanghai'.<br /> -Adds. P. <a href="#Page_27a">27</a>. 'Autobio-autobigraphy' changed to 'Autobigraphy'.<br /> -Changed all incidences of 'Hongkong' to 'Hong Kong'.<br /> -Fixed various punctuation.</p> -</div> - - - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Newfoundland to Cochin China, by -Mrs. Howard Vincent - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NEWFOUNDLAND TO COCHIN CHINA *** - -***** This file should be named 51280-h.htm or 51280-h.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/5/1/2/8/51280/ - -Produced by Jane Robins and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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