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Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..cc9365e --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #51259 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/51259) diff --git a/old/51259-0.txt b/old/51259-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index c15c31e..0000000 --- a/old/51259-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,29266 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Pantropheon or, History of Food, its -Preparation, from the Earliest Ages of t, by Alexis Soyer - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license - - -Title: The Pantropheon or, History of Food, its Preparation, from the Earliest Ages of the World - -Author: Alexis Soyer - -Release Date: February 21, 2016 [EBook #51259] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE PANTROPHEON *** - - - - -Produced by Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images available at The Internet Archive) - - - - - - - - - - - SOYER’S - PANTROPHEON. - - [Illustration: _Pl. A_] - - - - - THE - PANTROPHEON - OR, - HISTORY OF FOOD, - And its Preparation, - FROM THE EARLIEST AGES OF THE WORLD. - - BY A. SOYER, - - AUTHOR OF -“The Gastronomic Regenerator” and the “Modern Housewife, or Ménagère,” &c. - EMBELLISHED WITH FORTY-TWO STEEL PLATES, - ILLUSTRATING THE GREATEST GASTRONOMIC MARVELS OF ANTIQUITY. - - BOSTON: - TICKNOR, REED, AND FIELDS. - MDCCCLIII. - - _The Author reserves his right of Translating this Work._ - - - - - [Illustration] - - LONDON: - - VIZETELLY AND COMPANY, PRINTERS AND ENGRAVERS. - - PETERBOROUGH COURT, FLEET STREET. - - - - -Contents. - - - - Page - -PANTROPHEON 3 - -I. - -AGRICULTURE 9 - -II. - -CEREALS 19 - -III. - -GRINDING OF CORN 23 - -IV. - -MANIPULATION OF FLOUR 30 - -V. - -FRUMENTA 41 - -VI. - -GRAINS: SEEDS 46 - -VII. - -VEGETABLES 49 - -VIII. - -DRIED VEGETABLES 53 - Beans 53 - Haricots 55 - Peas 56 - Lentils 57 - -IX. - -KITCHEN GARDEN 59 - Cabbage 60 - Beet 62 - Spinach 63 - Mallows 64 - Asparagus 64 - Gourd 66 - Turnips 67 - Carrots 68 - Blit (a sort of Beet) 68 - Purslaine 68 - Sorrel 69 - Brocoli 69 - Artichoke 70 - Pompion 71 - Cucumber 72 - Lettuce 74 - Endive 75 - Onions 76 - Leeks 77 - Melon 77 - Radish 79 - Horse-Radish 80 - Garlic 81 - Eschalots 82 - Parsley 82 - Chervil 84 - Water-Cresses 84 - -X. - -PLANTS USED IN SEASONING 86 - Poppy 86 - Sesame 86 - Sow-Thistle 87 - Orach 87 - Rocket 87 - Fennel 88 - Dill 88 - Anise-Seed 88 - Hyssop 88 - Wild Marjoram 89 - Savory 89 - Thyme 89 - Wild Thyme 89 - Sweet Marjoram 89 - Pennyroyal 90 - Rue 90 - Mint 90 - Spanish Camomile 90 - Cummin 91 - Alisander 91 - Capers 91 - Asafœtida 91 - Sumach 92 - Ginger 92 - Wormwood 93 - -XI. - -FRUITS 95 - -XII. - -STONE FRUIT 97 - Olive Tree 97 - Palm Tree 100 - Cherry Tree 102 - Apricot Tree 103 - Peach Tree 104 - Plum Tree 105 - -XIII. - -PIP FRUIT 106 - Quince Tree 106 - Pear Tree 107 - Apple Tree 108 - Lemon Tree 109 - Orange Tree 110 - Fig Tree 112 - Raspberry Tree 115 - Currant Tree 115 - Strawberry Plant 115 - Mulberry Tree 116 - -XIV. - -SHELL FRUIT 117 - Almond Tree 117 - Walnut Tree 118 - Nut Tree 120 - Pistachio Tree 120 - Chesnut Tree 121 - Pomegranate 122 - -XV. - -ANIMAL FOOD 123 - Rearing of Cattle 127 - Markets 128 - Butchers 129 - -XVI. - -ANIMALS 133 - The Pig 133 - The Ox 142 - The Lamb 146 - The Kid 148 - The Ass 150 - The Dog 150 - -XVII. - -POULTRY 152 - The Cock 153 - The Capon 154 - The Hen 155 - The Chicken 156 - The Duck 168 - The Goose 150 - The Pigeon 162 - The Guinea Hen 163 - The Turkey Hen 168 - The Peacock 166 - -XVIII. - -MILK, BUTTER, CHEESE, AND EGGS 168 - Milk 168 - Butter 170 - Cheese 173 - Eggs 175 - -XIX. - -HUNTING 179 - The Stag 182 - The Roebuck 184 - The Deer 184 - The Wild Boar 185 - The Hare 188 - The Rabbit 189 - The Fox 190 - The Hedgehog 190 - The Squirrel 190 - The Camel 190 - The Elephant 191 - -XX. - -FEATHERED GAME 193 - The Pheasant 194 - The Partridge 195 - The Quail 196 - The Thrush 197 - The Blackbird 199 - The Starling 200 - The Flamingo 200 - Fig-Pecker, or Beccafico 201 - The Ortolan 203 - The Ostrich 203 - The Stork 204 - The Sea-Swallow 204 - The Wood-Hen, Bustard, Water-Hen, and Teal 206 - The Woodcock, Snipe, Curlew, Crow, Turtle Dove, and Lark 207 - -XXI. - -FISH 210 - Sturgeon 216 - Red Mullet 218 - Sea-Eel 220 - Lamprey 222 - Sea-Wolf 223 - Scarus, or Parrot-Fish 223 - Turbot 224 - Tunny 225 - Conger-Eel 226 - Eel 227 - Pike 228 - Carp 229 - Eel-Pout 229 - Trout 230 - Gold Fish 230 - Whiting 230 - Cod Fish 231 - Perch 232 - Scate 233 - Salmon 233 - Sepia, or Cuttle-Fish 234 - Swordfish 234 - Shad 234 - Rhombo, or Rhombus 235 - Mugil 235 - Mackerel 235 - Haddock 236 - Tench 236 - Dragon Weaver 237 - Loligo 237 - Sole 237 - Angel-Fish 237 - File-Fish 237 - Pilchard 238 - Loach 238 - Gudgeon 238 - Herring 239 - Anchovy 240 - -SHELL-FISH 241 - Oysters 242 - Sea-Hedgehog 245 - Mussel 245 - Scallop 246 - Tortoise 246 - Sea-Crawfish 247 - Lobster 247 - River Crayfish 248 - Crab 248 - Frogs 249 - -XXII. - -THE COOK 251 - -THE KITCHEN 259 - -XXIII. - -SEASONINGS 266 - Salt 267 - Brine 268 - Digestive Salts 269 - Garum 269 - Honey 273 - Sugar 275 - Cinnamon 275 - Cloves 276 - Pepper 277 - Verjuice 277 - Vinegar 278 - Truffle 279 - Mushrooms 282 - -XXIV. - -PASTRY 284 - -XXV. - -WATER 293 - -XXVI. - -BEVERAGES 299 - Tea 306 - Coffee 310 - Chocolate 312 - -XXVII. - -DRINKING CUPS 316 - -XXVIII. - -WINE 322 - -LIQUEUR WINE 332 - -XXIX. - -REPASTS 339 - -XXX. - -VARIETY OF REPASTS 354 - -XXXI. - -THE DINING-ROOM 363 - -XXXII. - -THE TABLE 368 - -THE TABLE SEATS 372 - -XXXIII. - -THE SERVANTS 376 - -XXXIV. - -THE GUESTS 380 - -XXXV. - -A ROMAN SUPPER 386 - -BIOGRAPHICAL NOTES 399 - -MODERN BANQUETS 401 - -TABLE OF REFERENCES 413 - -TABLE OF RECIPES 444 - -INDEX 449 - - - - -List of Illustrations. - - - Page -PLATE A. - -FRONTISPIECE--PORTRAIT OF THE AUTHOR. - -PLATE B. - -HEAVEN AND EARTH. - -PLATE B.* - -VICTUA, OR THE GODDESS OF GASTRONOMY. - -PLATE I. - -EGYPTIAN LABOURERS.--No. 1, Egyptian Labourer. No. 2, Sketch of a -Plough. No. 3, Basket. No. 4, Egyptian with Sickle, drawn by -Horses 12 - -PLATE II. - -GREEK AND ROMAN PLOUGHS.--Nos. 1 and 2, Greek and Roman Ploughs. -No. 3, Plough, turned once or twice. No. 4, Plough, as used by the -Gauls 14 - -PLATE III. - -AGRICULTURAL IMPLEMENTS.--No. 1, Plain Sickle. No. 2A, Plough, from -the Georgics of Virgil. No. 3, Scythe. No. 4, Spade. No. 5, Pick-axe. -Nos. 6 and 7, Mattocks 16 - -PLATE IV. - -ALCINOUS’S HAND-MILL 25 - -PLATE V. - -JUMENTARIÆ MILLS 26 - -PLATE VI. - -PLAUTUS’S HAND-MILL 27 - -PLATE VII. - -CAPPADOCIA BREAD.--No. 1, Loaf of Bread. No. 2, Pastry Mould. No. -3, Cappadocia Bread. No. 4, Mould for ditto 38 - -PLATE VIII. - -SCALES AND WEIGHTS 130 - -PLATE IX. - -VARRO’S AVIARY 198 - -PLATE X. - -APICIUS AND EPICURUS 201 - -PLATE XI. - -REMAINS OF KITCHEN STOVES.--No. 1, Kitchen Stove. No. 2. Stock Pot. -No. 3, Ditto. No. 4, Ladles. No. 5, Brazier 259 - -PLATE XII. - -STOCK POTS AND BROKEN STEWPAN 261 - -PLATE XIII. - -KITCHEN UTENSILS.--No. 1, Boiler, of Bronze. No. 2, Flat Saucepan. -No. 3, Kettle. No. 4, Gridiron. No. 5, Trivet 262 - -PLATE XIV. - -CHAFING-DISH AND SILVER CUP.--No. 1, Chafing-Dish. -No. 2, Silver Cup 263 - -PLATE XV. - -SPOON, FORK, KNIFE, SIMPULUM, &c.--No. 1, Roman Silver Spoon. No. -2, Brass Knife. No. 3, Simpulum. No. 4, Ditto. No. 5, Fork 264 - -PLATE XVI. - -ROMAN SILVER KNIFE-HANDLE, SILVER SPOON, AND DEEP DISH.--No. 1, -Silver Knife-handle. No. 2, Spoon. No. 3, Dish 265 - -PLATE XVII. - -ROMAN AND EGYPTIAN PAILS.--No. 1, Pail, of Bronze. No. 2, Pail, with -Two Handles (Egyptian) 297 - -PLATE XVIII. - -DRINKING-CUPS.--No. 1, Drinking-Cups (Shaded). No. 2, Ditto, Pig’s -Head and Dog’s Head 316 - -PLATE XVIII.A - -DRINKING-CUPS.--No. 3, Ram’s Head. No. 4, Boar’s Head 317 - -PLATE XIX. - -DRINKING-HORNS.--Nos. 1 and 2, Drinking-Horns. No. 3, Horn, Aztec’s -Head 318 - -PLATE XX. - -CRYSTAL VASE 319 - -PLATE XXI. - -MURRHIN CUP 321 - -PLATE XXII. - -RELICS FROM HERCULANEUM.--No. 1, Wine Press. No. 2, Diogenes. -No. 3, Beast of Burthen (a toy) 325 - -PLATE XXIII. - -COLUM NIVARUM 327 - -PLATE XXIV. - -VESSELS FOR HOLDING WINE.--No. 1, Amphora. Nos. 2 and 3, Smaller -Dolium. No. 4, Long-neck Bottle 328 - -PLATE XXV. - -VASES FOR WINE.--No. 1, Large Vase. No. 2, Glass Vase. No. 3, Glass -Bottle, with Cup 363 - -PLATE XXVI. - -VASES FOR WINE.--No. 1, Glass Vase. No. 2, Ditto. No. 3, Etruscan, -Three Handles. No. 4, Large Silver Vase. No. 5, Cantharus 364 - -PLATE XXVI.A - -CURIOUS ORNAMENTAL TERRA-COTTA CUPS.--No. 1, Goose. No. 2, Teapot. -No. 3, Jupiter’s Head 365 - -PLATE XXVI.B - -HOUSE OF BRUNSWICK’S VASE 366 - -PLATE XXVII. - -VASES FOR WINE.--No. 1, Etruscan Flat Vase. No. 2, Marble Vase. -No. 3, Metal Vase. No. 4, Greek Etruscan Drinking Vase 370 - -PLATE XXVIII. - -PROCILLATORES AND TRICLINIUM.--No. 1, Procillatores. -No. 2, Triclinium 378 - -PLATE XXIX. -ROMAN SUPPER 386 - -PLATE XXX. - -No. 1, Greek Etruscan Vase. No. 2, Greek Terra-Cotta Vase. No. 3, -Etruscan Terra-Cotta Vase. No. 4, Glass Amphora, for Falernian -Wine. No. 5, Terra-Cotta Amphora, for Falernian Wine 390 - -PLATE XXX.* - -CRATER, OR DRINKING CUP 391 - -PLATE XXXI. - -No. 1, Curious Silver Dish. Nos. 2 and 3, Silver ditto 392 - -PLATE XXXII. - -NERO AND HELIOGABALUS 398 - -PLATE XXXIII. - -YORK BANQUET 404 - -PLATE XXXIV. - -WILD BOAR A LA TROYENNE, AND THE HUNDRED GUINEA DISH 406 - -PLATE XXXV. - -THREE SILVERED GLASS CUPS 407 - - - - - THIS WORK - - Is Dedicated by the Author - - TO THE - - GENIUS OF GASTRONOMY. - -[Illustration] - - - - -PANTROPHEON. - - “I did feast with Cæsar.” - SHAKSPERE.--“_Julius Cæsar_,” Act iii., _Sc._ 3. - - “Dis-moi, ce que tu manges, - Je te dirai ce que tu es.” - BRILLAT-SAVARIN.--“_Physiologie du Goût._” - - -Thanks to the impressions received in boyhood, Rome and Athens always -present themselves to our minds accompanied by the din of arms, shouts -of victory, or the clamours of plebeians crowded round the popular -tribune. “And yet,” said we, “nations, like individuals, have two modes -of existence distinctly marked--one intellectual and moral, the other -sensual and physical; and both continue to interest through the lapse of -ages.” - -What, for instance, calls forth our sympathies more surely than to -follow from the cradle that city of Romulus--at first so weak, so -obscure, and so despised--through its prodigious developments, until, -having become the sovereign mistress of the world, it seems, like -Alexander, to lament that the limits of the globe restrict within so -narrow a compass its ungovernable ardour for conquest, its insatiable -thirst of _opima spolia_ and tyrannical oppression. In like manner, a -mighty river, accounted as nothing at its source, where a child can step -across, receives in its meandrous descent the tribute of waters, which -roll on with increasing violence, and rush at last from their too narrow -bed to inundate distant plains, and spread desolation and terror. - -History has not failed to record, one by one, the battles, victories, -and defeats of nations which no longer exist; it has described their -public life,--their life in open air,--the tumultuous assemblies of the -forum,--the fury of the populace,--the revolts of the camps,--the -barbarous spectacles of those amphiteatres, where the whole pagan -universe engaged in bloody conflict, where gladiators were condemned to -slaughter one another for the pastime of the over-pampered inhabitants -of the Eternal City--sanguinary spectacles, which often consigned twenty -or thirty thousand men to the jaws of death in the space of thirty days! - -But, after all, neither heroes, soldiers, nor people, can be always at -war; they cannot be incessantly at daggers drawn on account of some -open-air election; the applause bestowed on a skilful and courageous -_bestiarius_ is not eternal; captives may be poignarded in the Circus by -way of amusement, but only for a time. Independently of all these -things, there is the home, the fire-side, the prose of life, if you -will; nay, let us say it at once, the business of life--eating and -drinking. - -It is to that we have devoted our vigils, and, in order to arrive at our -aim, we have given an historical sketch of the vegetable and animal -alimentation of man from the earliest ages; therefore it will be easily -understood why we have taken the liberty of saying to the austere Jew, -the voluptuous Athenian, the obsequious or vain-glorious senator of -imperial Rome, and even to the fantastical, prodigal, and cruel Cæsars: -“Tell me what thou eatest, and I will tell thee who thou art.” - -But, it must be confessed that our task was surrounded with -difficulties, and required much laborious patience and obstinate -perseverance. It is easy to penetrate into the temples, the baths, and -the theatres of the ancients; not so to rummage their cellars, pantries, -and kitchens, and study the delicate magnificence of their dining-rooms. -Now it was there, and there alone, that we sought to obtain access. - -With that view we have had recourse to the only possible means: we have -interrogated those old memoirs of an extinct civilisation which connect -the present with the past; poets, orators, historians, philosophers, -epistolographers, writers on husbandry, and even those who are the most -frivolous or the most obscure--we have consulted all, examined all, -neglected nothing. Our respectful curiosity has often emboldened us to -peep into the sacred treasure of the annals of the people of God; and -sometimes the doctors of the Primitive Church have furnished us with -interesting traits of manners and customs, together with chance -indications of domestic usages, disseminated, and, as it were, lost in -the midst of grave moral instruction. - -The fatigue of these unwonted researches appeared to us to be fully -compensated by the joy we experienced on finding our hopes satisfied by -some new discovery. Like the botanist, who forgets his lassitude at the -unexpected sight of a desired plant, we no longer remembered the dust of -fatidical volumes, nor the numberless leaves we had turned over, when by -a happy chance our gastronomic enthusiasm espied a curious and rare -dish. - -Thus it is that this work--essay, we ought to call it--has been slowly -and gradually augmented with the spoils of numerous writers of -antiquity, both religious and profane. - -We have avoided, as much as possible, giving to this book a didactic and -magisterial character, which would have ill-accorded with the apparent -lightness of the subject, and might have rendered it tedious to most -readers. We know not whether these researches will be considered -instructive, but we hope they will amuse. - -When we compare the cookery of the ancients with our own--and the -parallel naturally presents itself to the mind--it often betrays strange -anomalies, monstrous differences, singular perversions of taste, and -incomprehensible amalgamations, which baffle every attempt at -justification. Apicius himself, or perhaps the Cœlius of the 3rd -century, to whom we owe the celebrated treatise “_De Opeoniis_,” would -run great risk--if he were now to rise from his tomb, and attempted to -give vogue to his ten books of recipes--either of passing for a poisoner -or of being put under restraint as a subject decidedly insane. It -follows, then, that although we have borrowed his curious lucubrations, -we leave to the Roman epicurean and to his times the entire -responsibility of his work. - -The reader will also remark, in the course of this volume, asserted -facts of a striking oddity, certain valuations which appear to be -exaggerated, some descriptions he will pronounce fabulous or -impossible. Now, we have never failed to give our authorities, but we -are far from being willing to add our personal guarantee; so that we -leave all those antique frauds--if any--to be placed to the account of -the writers who have traitorously furnished them. - -We think, however, that most persons will peruse with some interest -(and, let us hope, a little indulgence) these studies on an art which, -like all arts invented by necessity or inspired by pleasure, has kept -pace with the genius of nations, and became more refined and more -perfect in proportion as they themselves became more polite. - -It appears that the luxury and enchantments of the table were first -appreciated by the Assyrians and Persians, those voluptuous Asiatics, -who, by reason of the enervating mildness of the climate, were powerless -to resist sensual seductions. - -Greece--“beloved daughter of the gods”--speedily embellished the -culinary art with all the exquisite delicacy of her poetic genius. “The -people of Athens,” says an amiable writer, whom we regret to quote from -memory, “took delight in exercising their creative power, in giving -existence to new arts, in enlarging the aureola of civilisation. At -their voice, the gods hastened to inhabit the antique oak; they -disported in the fountains and the streams; they dispersed themselves in -gamesome groups on the tops of the mountains and in the shade of the -valleys, while their songs and their balmy breath mingled with the -harmonious whisperings of the gentle breeze.” - -What cooks! what a table! what guests! in that Eden of paganism--that -land of intoxicating perfumes, of generous wines, and inexhaustible -laughter! The Lacedæmonians alone, those cynics of Greece, threw a -saddening shade over the delicious picture of present happiness -undisturbed by any thought of to-morrow. - -Let us not forget that an Athenian, not less witty than nice, and, -moreover, a man of good company, has left us this profound aphorism: -“_La viande la plus délicate est celle qui est le moins viande; le -poisson le plus exquis est celui qui est le moins poisson._” - -Rome was long renowned for her austere frugality, and it is remarked -that, during more than five centuries, the art of making bread was there -unknown, which says little for her civilisation and intelligence. -Subsequently, the conquest of Greece, the spoils of the subjugated -world, the prodigious refinements of the Syracusans, gave to the -conquered nations, says Juvenal, a complete revenge on their -conquerors. The unheard-of excesses of the table swallowed up -patrimonies which seemed to be inexhaustible, and illustrious -dissipators obtained a durable but sad renown. - -The Romans had whimsical tastes, since they dared serve the flesh of -asses and dogs, and ruined themselves to fatten snails. But, after all, -the caprices of fashion, rather than the refinement of sensuality, -compelled them to adopt these strange aliments. Paulus Æmilius, no doubt -a good judge in such matters, formed a high opinion of the elegance -displayed by his compatriots in the entertainments; and he compared a -skilful cook, at the moment when he is planning and arranging a repast, -to a great general. - -We were very anxious to enrich our “PANTROPHEON” with a greater number -of _Bills of Fare_, or details of banquets; but we have become persuaded -that it is very difficult, at the present day, to procure a complete and -accurate account of the arrangement of feasts at which were seated -guests who died two or three thousand years ago. Save and except the -indications--more or less satisfactory, but always somewhat vague--which -we gather on this subject from Petronius, Athenæus, Apuleius, Macrobius, -Suetonius, and some other writers, we can do little more than establish -analogies, make deductions, and reconstruct the entire edifice of an -antique banquet by the help of a few data, valuable, without doubt, but -almost always incomplete. - -One single passage in Macrobius--a curious monument of Roman -cookery--will supply the place of multiplied researches: it is the -description of a supper given by the Pontiff Lentulus on the day of his -reception. We present it to the amateurs of the magiric art: - -“The first course (_ante-cœna_) was composed of sea-hedgehogs, raw -oysters in abundance, all sorts of shell-fish, and asparagus. The second -service comprised a fine fatted pullet, a fresh dish of oysters, and -other shell-fish, different kinds of dates, univalvular shell-fish (as -whelks, conchs, &c.), more oysters, but of different kinds, sea-nettles, -beccaficoes, chines of roe-buck and wild boar, fowls covered with a -perfumed paste, a second dish of shell-fish, and purples--a very costly -kind of Crustacea. The third and last course presented several -_hors-d’œuvre_, a wild boar’s head, fish, a second set of -_hors-d’œuvre_, ducks, potted river fish, leverets, roast fowls, and -cakes from the marshes of Ancona.” - -All these delicacies would very much surprise an epicurean of the -present day, particularly if they were offered to him in the order -indicated by Macrobius. The text of that writer, as it is handed down to -us, may be imperfect or mutilated; again, he may have described the -supper of Lentulus from memory, regardless of the order prescribed for -those punctilious and learned transitions to which a feast owes all its -value. - -Let us, we would say, in addressing our culinary colleagues, avoid those -deplorable _lacunes_; let us preserve for future generations, who may be -curious concerning our gastronomic pomp, the minutiæ of our memorable -magiric meetings, prompted, almost without exception, by some highly -civilising idea--a love of the arts, the commercial propagandism, or a -feeling of philanthropy. The Greeks and Romans--egotists, if there ever -were any--supped for themselves, and lived only to sup; our pleasures -are ennobled by views more useful and more elevated. We often dine for -the poor, and we sometimes dance for the afflicted, the widow, and the -orphan. - -Moreover, a most important ethnographical consideration seems to give a -serious interest to the diet of a people, if it be true, as we are -convinced it is, and as we shall probably one day endeavour to -demonstrate, that the manners of individuals, their idiosyncrasies, -inclinations, and intellectual habits, are modified, to a certain -extent, as taste, climate, and circumstances may determine the nature of -their food; an assertion which might be supported by irrefragable -proofs, and would show the justness of the aphorism: “Tell me what thou -eatest, and I will tell thee who thou art.” - -[Illustration: _Pl. B_ - -VICTUA -_or_ -THE GODDESS OF GASTRONOMY -] - - - - -I. - -AGRICULTURE - - -Every nation has attributed the origin of agriculture to some beneficent -Deity. The Egyptians bestowed this honour on Osiris, the Greeks on Ceres -and Triptolemus, the Latins on Saturn, or on their king Janus, whom, in -gratitude, they placed among the gods. All nations, however, agree that, -whoever introduced among them this happy and beneficial discovery, has -been most useful to man by elevating his mind to a state of sociability -and civilization.[I-1] - -Many learned men have made laborious researches in order to discover, -not only the name of the inventor of agriculture, but the country and -the century in which he lived; some, however, have failed in their -inquiry. And why? Because they have forgotten, in their investigation, -the only book which could give them positive information on the birth of -society, and the first development of human industry. We read in the -Book of Genesis that: “The Lord God took the man, and put him into the -garden of Eden, to dress it and to keep it”[I-2] And, after having -related his fatal disobedience, the sacred historian adds: “Therefore -the Lord God sent him forth from the garden of Eden, to till the ground -from whence he was taken.”[I-3] - -Would it be possible to adduce a more ancient and sublime authority? - -If it be asked why we take Moses as our guide, instead of dating the -origin of human society from those remote periods which are lost in the -night of ages, we invoke one of the most worthy masters of human -science--the illustrious Cuvier--who says:-- - -“No western nation can produce an uninterrupted chronology of more than -three thousand years. Not one of them has any record of connected facts -which bears the stamp of probability anterior to that time, nor even for -two or three centuries after. The Greeks acknowledge that they learned -the art of writing from the Phœnicians thirty or thirty-four -centuries ago; and for a long time after that period their history is -filled with fables, in which they only go back three hundred years to -establish the cradle of their existence as a nation. Of the history of -western Asia we have only a few contradictory extracts, which embrace, -in an unconnected form, about twenty centuries. The first profane -historian with whom we are acquainted by works extant is Herodotus, and -his antiquity does not reach _two thousand three hundred years_. The -historians consulted by him had written less than _a century_ previous; -and we are enabled to judge what kind of historians they were by the -extravagances handed down to us as extracts from Aristæus, Proconesus, -and some others. Before them they had only poets; and Homer, the master -and eternal model of the west, lived only _two thousand seven hundred_, -or _two thousand eight hundred, years ago_. One single nation has -transmitted to us annals, written in prose, before the time of Cyrus: it -is the Jewish nation. That part of the Old Testament called the -_Pentateuch_ has existed in its present form at least ever since the -schism of Jeroboam, as the Samaritans receive it equally with the Jews, -that is to say, that it has assuredly existed more than _two thousand -eight hundred_ years. There is no reason for not attributing the Book of -Genesis to Moses, which would carry us back _five hundred_ years more, -or _thirty-three centuries_; and it is only necessary to read it in -order to perceive that it is, in part, a compilation of fragments from -antecedent works: wherefore, no one can have the least doubt of its -being the oldest book now possessed by the western nations.”[I-4] - -The descendants of our first parents--and, first of all, the Hebrew -people, who, as a nation historically considered, must occupy our -foremost attention--devoted all their energy to agricultural labour. - -The chief of the tribe of Judah as well as the youngest son of the tribe -of Benjamin followed the plough, and gathered corn in the fields. Gideon -was thrashing and winnowing his corn, when an angel revealed to him that -he should be the deliverer of Israel;[I-5] Ruth was gleaning when Boaz -saw her for the first time;[I-6] King Saul was driving his team of oxen -in the ploughed field, when some of his court came and apprized him that -the city of Jabesh was in danger;[I-7] and Elisha was called away to -prophesy while at work with one of his father’s ploughs.[I-8] We could -multiply these incidents without end, to prove what extraordinary -interest the Jews took in agricultural occupations. - -Moses regarded agriculture as the first of all arts, and he enjoined the -Hebrews to apply themselves to it in preference to any other: it was to -the free and pure air of the fields, to the strengthening, healthy, and -laborious country life, that he called their first attention. The sages -of Greece and Rome held the same opinion: in those republics the -tradesman was but an obscure individual, while the tiller of the soil -was considered as a distinguished citizen. The urban tribes yielded -precedence to the rustics, and this latter class supplied the nation -with its generals and its magistrates.[I-9] Our present ideas on this -point have materially changed with the times, and our modern Cincinnati -very seldom return to the field to terminate the furrow they have -commenced. The Israelites did not possess this excessive delicacy: they -preserved the taste for agriculture with which their great legislator, -Moses, had inspired them, and which the distribution of land naturally -tended to strengthen. No one, in fact, was allowed to possess enough -ground to tempt him to neglect the smallest portion; nor had any one the -right to dispossess the Hebrew of his father’s field,--even he himself -was forbidden to alienate for ever land from his family.[I-10] This wise -disposition did not escape the notice of an ancient heathen -author,[I-11] and various states of Greece adopted the same plan; -amongst others, the Locrians, Athenians, and Spartans, who did not allow -their fathers’ inheritance to be sold.[I-12] - -The plan which we have adopted for our guidance in this work hardly -justifies us in casting more than a glance at the Mosaic legislation; we -shall, therefore, pass over all those prescriptions, all those memorable -prohibitions, which the reader must have so often admired in the Books -of Leviticus and Deuteronomy, and content ourselves with observing that -Moses knew how to find in agriculture an infallible means of developing -the industry of his people, and that, by imposing the necessity of -giving rest to the land every seventh year,[I-13] he obliged them, by -the generality of this repose, to have stores in reserve; and -consequently to employ every means of preserving portions of the grain, -fruit, wines, and oil which they had gathered in the course of the six -years preceding. - -Ancient casuists of this nation enter into the most minute details on -tillage and sowing, and also on the gathering of olives, on the tithes -which were paid to the priests, and the portion set aside for the poor. -They also mention some species of excellent wheat, barley, rice, figs, -dates, &c., which were gathered in Judea.[I-14] - -The soil of this delicious country was astonishingly fertile,[I-15] the -operation of tillage was easy, and the cattle here supplied a greater -abundance of milk than anywhere else;[I-16] we will just remark that -even the names of several localities indicate some of these advantages. -For instance, Capernaum signified a beautiful country town; Gennesareth, -the garden of the groves; Bethsaida, the house of plenty; Nam was -indebted for its sweet name to the beauty of its situation; and Magdela, -on the borders of the sea of Galilee, to its site, and the happy life of -its inhabitants. - -Next to the Hebrews, in agriculture, came the Egyptians, a strange and -fantastical people, who raised the imperishable pyramids, the statue of -Memnon, and the lighthouse of Alexandria, and who yet prayed religiously -every morning to their goddess--a _radish_, or their gods--_leek_ and -_onion_.[I-17] Whatever there may be of folly and rare industry in this -mixture, we cannot but agree that the art of agriculture was very -ancient in Egypt, as the father of the faithful--Abraham--retired into -that country at a time of famine;[I-18] and, later, the sons of Jacob -went there also to purchase corn.[I-19] - -We know that the Romans called this province the granary of the empire, -and that they drew from it every year twenty million bushels of -corn.[I-20] If we are to believe the Egyptians, Osiris, son of Jupiter -(and hence a demi-god of good family), taught them the art of tilling -the ground by aid of the plough.[I-21] This instrument, we may easily -believe, was much less complicated than ours of the present day; there -is no doubt that in the beginning, and for a great length of time -afterwards, - - DESCRIPTION OF PLATE No. I. - - No. 1. Represents an Egyptian labourer tilling the ground with a - pickaxe of a simple form; drawn at Thebes, by Mons. Nectoul, member - of the commission of the French expedition in Egypt, from paintings - in the subterranean vaults of Minich. - - No. 2. Is a sketch of the plough, which a great number of Egyptian - figures hold as an attribute; this was taken from the subterranean - vault of Eileithya; it represents the plough guided by a labourer, - and drawn by oxen tied by the horns, and whipped by a second - labourer, whilst a third, placed by the side of the oxen, throws - before them the seeds which are to be covered by the ploughed - earth. - - No. 3. A basket to carry the seeds. On the tombs of the kings of - Thebes is seen painted a sower, with a basket like this, an - attribute which is seen hanging on the back of the divinity Osiris. - - No. 4. Represents an Egyptian with a sickle, much like in shape to - a scythe; and Denon, of the French expedition, proved that corn was - also cut with a scythe. - -[Illustration: _Pl. 1_] - -it was nothing but a long piece of wood without joint, and bent in such -manner that one end went into the ground, whilst the other served to -yoke the oxen;[I-22] for it was always these animals which drew the -plough, although Homer seems to give the preference to mules.[I-23] - -The Greeks, clever imitators of the Egyptians, pretended that Ceres -taught them the art of sowing, reaping, and grinding corn; they made her -goddess of harvest, and applied themselves to the labour of agriculture -with that rare and persevering ability which always characterised these -people, and consequently was often the cause of many things being -attributed to them which they only borrowed from other nations.[I-24] - -The Romans, future rulers of the world, understood from the first that -the earth claimed their nursing care; and Romulus instituted an order of -priesthood for no other object than the advancement of this useful art. -It was composed of the twelve sons of his nurse, all invested with a -sacerdotal character, who were commanded to offer to Heaven vows and -sacrifices in order to obtain an abundant harvest. They were called -_Arvales_ brothers;[I-25] one of them dying, the king took his place, -and continued to fulfil his duty for the rest of his life.[I-26] - -In the palmy days of the republic, the conquerors of the universe passed -from the army or the senate to their fields;[I-27] Seranus was sowing -when called to command the Roman troops, and Quintus Cincinnatus was -ploughing when a deputation came and informed him that he was appointed -dictator. - -Everything in the conduct of the Romans gives evidence of their great -veneration for agriculture. They called the rich, _locupletes_, that is, -persons who were possessors of a farm or country seat (_locus_); their -first money was stamped with a sheep or an ox, the symbol of abundance: -they called it _pecunia_, from _pecus_ (flock). The public treasure was -designated _pascua_, because the Roman domain consisted, at the -beginning, only of pasturage. - -After the taking of Carthage, the books of the libraries were -distributed to the allied princes of the republic, but the senate -reserved the twenty-eight books of Mago on agriculture.[I-28] - -We shall briefly point out the principal processes of this art in use -among the Greeks and Romans, or at least those which appear to us most -deserving of interest. Like us, the ancients divided the land in -furrows, whose legal length (if we may so term it) was one hundred and -thirty feet.[I-29] Oxen were never allowed to stop while tracing a -furrow, but on arriving at the end they rested a short time; and when -their task was over they were cleaned with the greatest care, and their -mouths washed with wine.[I-30] The ground being well prepared and fit to -receive the seed, the grain was spread on the even surface of the -furrows, and then covered over.[I-31] - -The primitive plough, already mentioned, was of extreme simplicity. It -had no wheels, but was merely furnished with a handle, to enable the -ploughman to direct it according to his judgment; neither was there any -iron or other metal in its construction. They afterwards made a plough -of two pieces, one of a certain length to put the oxen to, and the other -was shorter to go in the ground; it was similar, in shape, to an anchor. -Such was the style of plough which the Greeks used.[I-32] They also very -often employed a sort of fork, with three or four prongs, for the same -purpose.[I-33] Pliny gives credit to the Gauls for the invention of the -plough mounted on wheels. The Anglo-Norman plough had no wheels;[I-34] -the ploughman guided it with one hand, and carried a stick in the other -to break the clods. - -The Greeks and Romans had not, perhaps, the celebrated guano of our -days, though we would not positively assert it; but they knew of a great -variety of manures, all well adapted to the various soils they wished to -improve. Sometimes they made use of marl, a sort of fat clay;[I-35] and -frequently manure from pigeons, blackbirds, and thrushes, which were -fattened in aviaries[I-36] for the benefit of Roman epicures. Certain -plants, they thought, required a light layer of ashes, which they -obtained from roots and brushwood;[I-37] others succeeded best, -according to their dictum, on land where sheep, goats, &c., had grazed -for a long time.[I-38] - - DESCRIPTION OF PLATE No. II. - - Nos. 1 & 2. Greek and Roman plough, made of several pieces; the - first taken from the “Miscelan. Erudit.” of Spon, the second from - an engraved stone in the gallery of Florence. - - No. 3. Plough, made of one crooked piece of wood, turned once or - twice. - - No. 4. Plough, as used by the Gauls, furnished with wheels. - -When the harvest season arrived, they joyfully prepared to cut the corn, -with instruments varying in form according to the locality or the fancy -of the master. In one place they adopted the plain sickle,[I-39] in -another that with teeth.[I-40] Sometimes they mowed the corn, as they -did the meadows, with a scythe;[I-41] or else they plucked off the ears -with a kind of fork, armed with five teeth.[I-42] A short time after the -harvest, the operation of thrashing generally began. Heavy chariots, -armed with - -[Illustration: _Pl. 2_] - -pointed teeth, crushed the ears: Varro calls this machine the -“Carthaginian chariot.”[I-43] Strabo asserts that the ancient Britons -carried the corn into a large covered area, or barn, where they thrashed -it; adding that, without this precaution, the rain and damp would have -spoiled the grain.[I-44] At all events, this kind of thrashing in barns, -with flails and sticks, was not unknown to other countries; Pliny speaks -of it,[I-45] and Columella describes it;[I-46] we may add that the -Egyptians were also very probably acquainted with this method, since the -Jews, who had submitted to their power, employed it themselves.[I-47] -When the corn had been thrashed, winnowed, and put into baskets very -similar to our own of the present day,[I-48] they immediately studied -the best means of preserving it: some preferred granaries exposed to a -mild temperature, others had extensive edifices with thick brick walls -without openings, except one hole only, in the roof, to admit light and -air. - -The Spaniards, Africans, and Cappadocians, dug deep ditches, from which -they excluded all moisture; they covered the bottom and lined the sides -with straw, then put in the grain, and covered it up. The ancients were -of opinion that corn in the ear could, by this means, be preserved a -great number of years.[I-49] - -If it is desirable to keep corn for any length of time, choose the -finest and best grown. After having worked it, make a pile as high as -the ceiling will permit. Cover with a layer of quicklime, powdered, of -about three inches thick; then, with a watering-pot, moisten this lime, -which forms a crust with the corn. The outside seeds bud, and shoot -forth a stalk, which perishes in winter. This corn is only to be touched -when necessity requires it. At Sedan, a warehouse has been seen, hewed -out of the rock and tolerably damp, in which there had been a -considerable pile of corn for the last hundred and ten years. It was -covered with a crust a foot thick, on which persons might walk without -bending or breaking it in the slightest degree. - -Marshal Vauban proposed eating corn in soup, without being ground; it -was boiled during two or three hours in water, and when the grains had -burst, a little salt, butter, or milk, was added. This food is very -nice, not unwholesome, and might be employed when flour is scarce, -heated, or half-rotten.--DUTOUR. - -The Chinese instituted a ceremony which had for its base to honour the -profession of agriculture: every year, at the time of ploughing the -fields, the emperor with all his court paid a visit to his country -residence near Pekin, and then marked out several furrows with his -plough. - -In 1793, the National Convention of France instituted also a similar -fête; and the president of the local administration of his county was to -mark out a furrow. - -In 1848 a grand republican procession took place through Paris, to the -Champ de Mars, wherein agriculture played a prominent part. - -The first treatise on agriculture was printed in 1538; and its -importance has been so much felt from that period, that there are now in -France more than one hundred and twenty societies of agriculture, who -distribute prizes to encourage discoveries for the improvement of this -science. - -We have, in our days, the Royal Agricultural Society of England, which -also awards prizes;[V] and through such institutions all information can -be obtained on the successive progresses made in that indispensable art, -which may be said to have arrived to such a degree of perfection, that -future generations may find some difficulty in improving upon it. One -great evidence of which is, the immense number of samples of -agricultural produce, machines, and implements of husbandry, which great -and the glorious Exhibition of 1851 has ushered to the world. - - DESCRIPTION OF PLATE No. III. - - No. 1. Is the plain sickle. No. 2. Another, with teeth. - - No. 3. A scythe, very similar to those now in use. - - No. 4. A spade; its handle is supplied with a double crossbar, - fixed at a little distance off the spade, to support the foot; it - is still so used in Italy and the southern parts of France. - - No. 5. A pickaxe, as it was found engraved on the various - sarcophagi; the pick end was sometimes flattened, and then called - pick-axe. - - Nos. 6 and 7. The mattocks; the first was drawn from an engraved - stone in the “Monuments Antiq.” of Winckelmann. - - No. 2 A. Represents a plough, composed according to the “Georgics” - of Virgil. - -Previous to the arrival of the Romans, the ancient Britons paid but -little attention to agriculture. Their intestine discords left them -scarcely any leisure to cultivate their fields, or apply themselves to -the improvement of an art which flourishes only in peaceful times. They -reared a great number of cattle; but their chief corn was barley, of -which they made their favourite drink. They put the grain in the ear -into barns, and beat it out as they wanted it. Those inhabitants of the -island who were the least civilized subsisted solely on milk and the -flesh of animals, - -[Illustration: _Pl. 3_] - -which they had learned to master by their skill.[I-50] But the people of -this nation, for which Heaven had in reserve such a brilliant destiny, -knew how to endure hunger, cold, and fatigue, without a murmur. A Briton -passed entire days immersed to the neck in the stagnant waters of a -marsh; a few roots sufficed for his nourishment, and, if we are to -believe Dio, his frugal habits enabled him to appease the craving of his -stomach with an aliment composed of ingredients no longer known, and of -which he took each time, at long intervals, a quantity not exceeding in -size that of a bean.[I-51] - -Let us add that the art of gardening was known rather early in Great -Britain, and that marl was employed to manure the land.[I-52] - -The Anglo-Saxons employed themselves diligently in the cultivation of -the soil; they established farms, sowed grain, and reared cattle. The -fleece of their sheep furnished them with precious wool, which they -spun, and then converted into sumptuous clothing.[I-53] - -Strutt gives us a curious detail of rural occupations at that epoch. We -will cite the original text: - -“January exhibits the husbandman in the fields at plough, while his -attendant, diligently following, is sowing the grain. - -“February. The grain being put into the earth, the next care was to -prune their trees, crop their vines, and place them in order. - -“March. Then we follow them into the garden, where the industrious -labourer is digging up the ground, and sowing the vegetables for the -ensuing season. - -“April. Now, taking leave of the laborious husbandman, we see the -nobleman regaling with his friends, and passing the pleasant month in -carousings, banquetings, and music. - -“May brings the lord into the field to examine his flock, and -superintend the shearing of the sheep. - -“June. With this month comes the gladsome time of harvest. Here are some -cutting down the corn, while it is, by others, bound up in sheaves and -laid into the carts, to be conveyed to the barns and granaries; in the -meantime they are spirited up to their labours by the shrill sound of -the enlivening horn. - -“July. Here we find them employed in lopping the trees and felling of -timber, &c. - -“August. In this month they cut down the barley with which they made -their old and best beloved drink (ale). - -“September. Here we find the lord, attended by his huntsmen, pursuing -and chasing the wild boars in the woods and forests. - -“October. And here he is amusing himself with the exercise of that old -and noble pastime, hawking. - -“November. This month returns us again to the labourers, who are here -heating and preparing their utensils. - -“December. In this last month we find them thrashing out the grain, -while some winnow or rather sift it, to free it from the chaff, and -others carry it out in large baskets to the granaries. In the meantime, -the steward keeps an account of the quantity, by means of an indented or -notched stick.”[I-54] - -Agriculture was always protected with paternal solicitude by a prince, -whose name will ever remind us of the sanguinary day of Saint -Bartholomew. Here is a textual passage from the edict issued by Charles -IX., the 18th October, 1571. - -“We have commanded and ordained, and do hereby command and ordain, that -no man engaged in the cultivation of land, by himself, his servants, and -his family, with intent to raise grain and fruit necessary for the -sustenance of men and beasts, shall be liable to the process of -execution for debt, nor on any account whatsoever, neither in his own -person, nor his bed, horses, mares, mules, asses, oxen, cows, pigs, -goats, sheep, poultry, ploughs, carts, waggons, harrows, barrows, nor -any other species or kind of cattle or goods serving in the said tillage -and occupation. * * * The said husbandmen being under our protection and -safeguard, seeing that we have so placed them and do place them by these -presents.”[I-55] - - - - -II. - -CEREALS. - - -The nomenclature which the Romans have left us of their various kinds of -corn is so obscure and uncertain, that some modern writers are -continually contradicting each other, and, by these means, have raised -doubts which render our task more difficult, instead of enlightening us -on the subject. - -We shall do all in our power to avoid the censure which we take the -liberty of passing upon them. - -“_Triticum_,” wheat, or corn; “_Blé_,” from the ancient Latin word -“_Bladus_,” which signifies fruit or seed. The botanist Michaux has -discovered in Persia, on a mountain four days’ journey from Hamadan, the -place where wheat (a species known as _spelt_, from the Latin _spelta_) -is indigenous to the soil, from which we may presume that wheat has its -origin in that country, or some part of Asia not far from Persia. This -grain was more cultivated formerly than it is now; nevertheless, it is -still gathered in Italy, Switzerland, Alsace, in the Limousin and in -Picardy, to make bread, with spelt, a greater quantity of leaven, and, -above all, a little salt. This bread is white, light, savoury, and keeps -moist for several days.--PARMENTIER. - -_Robus_, a variety of corn heavier than triticum, and remarkable for its -brilliant polish. - -Every year, on the 25th of April, an appeal was made to the god Robigus, -to prevent the mildew from corrupting this fine specimen of corn. This -festival was founded by the great king, Numa Pompilius.[II-1] - -_Siligo_, a beautiful quality of wheat, of great whiteness, but lighter -in weight than the preceding kind.[II-2] - -_Trimestre_, a kind of siligo, sown in Spring, and which was ready for -reaping three months afterwards. - -_Granea_, the grain merely deprived of its husk: it was boiled in water, -to which milk was added.[II-3] - -_Hordeum_, barley.[II-4] The flour of this corn was the food of the -Jewish soldiers.[II-5] It was, with the Athenians, a favourite dish, but -among the Romans an ignominious food. Augustus threatened the cohorts -that, should they not fight bravely, he would punish every tenth man -with death, and give the remainder barley for food.[II-6] This corn was -certainly in use among the Egyptians in the time of Moses, since one of -the plagues which afflicted that people was the loss of the barley in -the ear before it came to maturity.[II-7] - -_Panicum_, panic grass.[II-8] Certain inhabitants of Thrace and of the -borders of the Euxine, or Black Sea, preferred this to all other -food.[II-9] - -_Millium_, millet, was used for making excellent cakes.[II-10] - -_Secale_, rye.[II-11] Pliny thinks this grain detestable, and only good -to appease extreme hunger.[II-12] - -_Avena_, oats.[II-13] Virgil had but very little esteem for this -grain.[II-14] The Romans cut it in the spring for the cattle to eat -green; and the Germans, in the time of Pliny, took great care in its -cultivation, and made a pulp of it which they thought excellent.[II-15] - -_Oryza_, rice. Pliny[II-16] and Dioscorides[II-17] class it with the -wheats; whereas Galen, on the contrary, places it among vegetables. - -Rice was rather scarce in Greece at the time when Theophrastus lived: it -had lately been brought from India, 286 years before Christ. - -The ancients considered it most nutritious and fattening.[II-18] - -_Zea_, spelt, or rice wheat,[II-19] equally esteemed by Greeks and -Latins.[II-20] - -_Sesamum_, sesame. Pliny classes this among the seeds sown in -March,[II-21] and Columella places it among the vegetables.[II-22] The -Romans knew how to prepare this corn in a manner at once wholesome and -agreeable. They made it into very dainty cakes, which were served at -dessert,[II-23] whence sprang the saying _sesame cakes_, which was -applied to those sweet and flattering expressions called honied words -(in French, _paroles sucrées_).[II-24] - -A people so restless and unmanageable as were the Greeks and Romans, -when pressed by hunger, required that the greatest care should be -exercised for the supply of corn, and the easy sale of this precious -provision. Hence nothing could be wiser than their regulations on this -subject. - -One of the laws of the twelve tables punished with death the individual -who had premeditatedly set fire to his neighbour’s corn; and inflicted a -fine or the whip on any one who caused so great a calamity by his -imprudence.[II-25] - -In Greece, a special magistrate, the “_Sitocome_,” was charged with the -inspection of the corn; and various officers, such as the _sitones_, the -_sitophylaces_, and the _sitologes_, were appointed to watch over its -purchase. - -And lastly, public distributors, under the names of _siturches_ and -_sitometres_, were exclusively occupied with the allotment of -corn;[II-26] they prevented any one from purchasing a greater quantity -than was actually necessary for his wants. The law forbad the delivery -of more than fifty measures to one individual.[II-27] The Roman -government was so convinced that abundance of bread was one of the best -means of maintaining public tranquillity,[II-28] that Julius Cæsar -created two prætors, and two ediles or magistrates, to preside over the -purchase, conveyance, storing, and gratuitous distribution of -wheat.[II-29] For we know that this people of kings, powerful but -frivolous, and careless of the morrow, submitted to the incredible -follies of their rulers on the sole condition of being well fed and -amused by them.[II-30] In the time of Demosthenes the common price of -wheat in Greece was about 3_s._ 11_d._ the four bushels.[II-31] In Rome, -during the republic, wheat was distributed to 60,000 persons.[II-32] -Julius Cæsar desired that 320,000 plebeians should enjoy this bounty; -but this number was afterwards reduced to 150,000,[II-33] or perhaps, -according to Cassius, to 160,000.[II-34] Augustus fed, at first, 200,000 -citizens, then only 120,000.[II-35] Nero, who always went to extremes -either in good or evil, gave corn throughout the empire to 220,000 idle -people, including the soldiers of the prætorian guard.[II-36] Adrian -added to this list all the children of the poor: the boys to the age of -18, and the girls to that of 14. Finally, this liberality, more politic -than generous, and so foreign to our present manners, was carried, under -the Emperor Severus, to 75,000 bushels per day.[II-37] The bushel -weighed twenty pounds of twelve ounces each.[II-38] - -The Greeks esteemed highly the corn of Bœotia, Thrace, and Pontus. -The Romans preferred that of Lombardy, the present duchy of Spoletta, -Sicily, Sardinia, and a part of Gaul. Sardinia, Sicily, and Corsica, -supplied them every year with 800,000 bushels of twenty-one pounds -weight, which made them call those islands “the sweet nurses of -Rome.”[II-39] Africa furnished 40,000,000 of bushels; Egypt 20,000,000, -and the remainder came from Greece, Asia, Syria, Gaul, and Spain.[II-40] - -The erudite are not agreed as to the aboriginal country of corn: some -say it is Egypt, others Tartary, and the learned Bailly, as well as the -traveller Pallas, affirm that it grows spontaneously in Siberia. Be that -as it may, the Phocians brought it to Marseilles before the Romans had -penetrated into Gaul. The Gauls ate the corn cooked, or bruised in a -mortar; they did not know for a long time how to make fermented bread. - -The Chinese attribute to Chin-Nong, the second of the nine emperors of -China who preceded the establishment of the dynasties (more than 2,207 -years B.C.), the discovery of corn, rice, and other cereals. - -We find in the Black Book of the Exchequer, that in the reign of Henry -I., when they reduced the victuals (for the king’s household) to the -estimate of money, a measure of wheat to make bread for the service of -one hundred men, one day, was valued only at one shilling.[II-41] - -But in the reign of Henry III., about the 43rd year, the price was -mounted up to fifteen and twenty shillings a quarter.[II-42] - -The ancients, as well as the moderns, caused wheat to undergo certain -preparations to enable it to be transformed into bread, we shall -enumerate in the following chapter the different processes by which they -obtained flour, the essential foundation of the food of man. - -_Cereals._--This name has been given to all plants of the gramineous -family, the fundamental base of the food of man. The _cereals_, properly -speaking, are limited to wheat, rye, barley, and oats; however, there -are others, such as canary grass, Indian corn, millet, rice, &c., &c. -The immediate and most abundant principle of all these plants is the -_fécule_, or flour, and the vegeto-animal matter of which bread is made, -and other preparations for food, and fermented liquors; these cereals -are given green or dry to cattle as forage; their straw covers houses, -and serves as litter and manure. - -Cereals was also the name given to a feast in honour of Ceres, -instituted at Rome by the edile Mumonius, and celebrated every year on -the 7th of April. The ladies of Rome appeared clothed in white, and -holding torches in remembrance of the travels of that divinity. Cakes -sprinkled with salt and grains of incense, honey, milk, and wine, were -offered to that goddess. Pigs were sacrificed to her. The _cereals_ of -the Romans were the _thesmophories_ with the Greeks. - - - - -III. - -GRINDING OF CORN. - - -At a very distant period, when gods, not over edifying in their conduct, -descended at times from the heights of Olympus to enliven their -immortality amongst mortals, we are told that a divine aliment charmed -the palate of Jupiter and that of his quarrelsome wife; nay, of all -those who inhabited the celestial abode. We are ignorant of the hour at -which the table of the god of thunder was laid; but we know well that he -breakfasted, dined, and supped on a delicious ambrosia--a liquid -substance, it may be presumed, since it flowed for the first time from -one of the horns of the goat Amalthæa, and of rather an insipid taste, -if we are to believe Ibicus,[III-1] who describes it as nine times -sweeter than honey. The gods have disappeared; we would forgive them for -leaving us, had they left behind them the recipe of this marvellous -substance; but its composition and essence remain unknown, and man, not -skilful enough to appropriate to his use the inexhaustible treasures of -culinary science, began his hard gastrophagic apprenticeship by -devouring acorns which grew in the forests.[III-2] This is assuredly -very mortifying to our feelings; but you may believe it on the authority -of a poet, for we well know that a poet never tells an untruth.[III-3] -Besides, fabulous antiquity adds new weight to the fact, by informing us -that the Arcadian Pelasgus[III-4] deserved that altars should be erected -to his memory, for having taught the Greeks to choose in preference the -beech-nut, as the most delicate of this class of comestibles, according -to the tender Virgil, who, however, only judged of it by hearsay.[III-5] - -There is a great degree of probability in the supposition that the -different races of the north, each inhabiting a country covered with -immense forests, lived for a long time on the fruit of these different -kinds of oak which they possessed in such abundance. The great respect -they had for the tree, the pompous ceremony with which the high priest -of the Druids came every year to cut away the parasitical plant which -clings to it, the very name of the Druids--derived from a celtic word -signifying _oak_--all seem to point out the first food of our ancestors. -The oak furnished the primitive aliment of almost every nation, in their -original state of barbarism. Some of them had even preserved a taste for -the acorn after they became civilized. Among the Arcadians and the -Spaniards, the acorn was regarded as a delicious article of food. We -read in Pliny that, in his time, these latter had them served on their -tables at dessert, after they had been roasted in the wood-ashes to -soften them. According to Champier, this custom still subsisted in Spain -in the 16th century. - -The regulation made by Chrodegand, Bishop of Metz, about the end of the -8th century, for the canons, says expressly[III-6] that if, in an -unfavorable year, the acorn or flour should fail, it will be the duty of -the bishop to provide it. - -When, animated by the most praiseworthy zeal and courage, Du Bellay, -Bishop of Mans, came, in 1546, to represent to Francis I. the frightful -misery of the provinces, and that of his diocese in particular, he -assured the king that in many localities the people had nothing to eat -but bread made of acorns. - -But mankind, who soon get tired of every thing, even of acorns and -beech-nuts, began to dislike this wholesome and abundant food, when -Ceres, the ancient Queen of Sicily, came just _à propos_ to give a few -lessons in the art of sowing the earth.[III-7] Corn once brought into -fashion acquired a surprising repute, and the ancient food was given up -to the animal which it fattens; and if this last were eaten, it was no -doubt in gratitude for the fruit mankind had formerly so much loved. - -The good Ceres did not stop there; it was very well to have corn, but to -know how to grind it was also requisite; and the human race was then so -lamentably backward, that one might have gone round the world without -meeting a miller, or even the shadow of the meanest little mill. - -The Queen of Sicily then invented grinding-stones,[III-8] but, as the -most useful discoveries require time to be known and improved upon, the -way of grinding corn with stones did not become uniform everywhere. The -inhabitants of Etruria (now called Tuscany) pounded the grain in - -[Illustration: _Pl. 4._ - -ALCINOUS’S HAND MILL.] - -mortars.[III-9] The early Romans adopted the same means, and gave the -name of _Pistores_, grinders, to those persons who followed this -occupation.[III-10] Pliny relates that one of the ancient families of -Rome took the surname of _Piso_, having descended, as they believed, -from the inventor of the art of bruising wheat with pestles.[III-11] - -Down to the latest days of the Roman republic the corn was bruised after -being roasted. The pestle used for this purpose was somewhat pointed, -and suspended by the aid of a ring to the extremity of a flexible lever, -supported by an axle.[III-12] - -From the time of Moses the Hebrews used grinding-stones: several -passages of the Holy Scripture clearly indicate this. Among others: “No -man shall take the nether or the upper millstone to pledge; for he -taketh a man’s life to pledge.”[III-13] Another text shows that the -Egyptians used grinding-stones with handles, at about the same -period.[III-14] The Israelites, when in the Desert, employed the same -means to pound manna,[III-15] and after their settlement in the Promised -Land, these utensils served to grind corn. - -The Greeks, following faithfully the system from which they had but -slightly deviated, have honoured King Miletus as the inventor of -grinding-stones;[III-16] the upper part was of wood, and armed with -heads of iron nails. A passage of Homer would seem to lead us to believe -that the grain was first crushed with rollers on stone slabs, which -operation would naturally lead to the crushing of it between -grinding-stones.[III-17] However this may be, these last were no doubt -still scarce in the heroic times, since the same poet does not fail to -inform us that one was to be seen in the gardens of Alcinous, chief of -the Phæacians.[III-18] This kind of decoration would but very little -please the taste of our modern horticulturists. - -Nearly two centuries before our era, in the year of Rome 562, the -Romans, victorious in Asia, brought with them handmills.[III-19] This -conquest of industry soon made an immense stride, and to the labour of -man succeeded by degrees the obedient aid of horses and asses. Hence the -two kind of mills so often mentioned--by hand, _manuales_; by animal, -_iumentariæ_[III-20] - -Delighted with a discovery which supplied an important necessity of -life, the Romans invented a divinity to whom they might show their -gratitude, and Olympus was honoured with a new inmate: the goddess Mola, -protectress and patroness of mills and millstones.[III-21] - -Now Mola was one of a large family; she had several charming sisters, -like herself, who could not endure living among the commoners, while -Ganymede served ambrosia to their elder sister, or poured out for her -the nectar of the gods. Besides, it cost so little to be made a goddess! -A few grains of incense, more or less, who would grudge such a trifle? -The Flamine of Jupiter, whom they consulted, was at first rather -refractory. He feared the crowding of Olympus; he doubted whether polite -intercourse could ever be established between gods of high birth and -little divinities covered with flour; but when at last the high priest -had ceased speaking, the deputation removed all scruples by a reasonable -bribe, and the sisters of Mola were forthwith enrolled in the list of -immortals, under the designation of well-beloved daughters of the god of -war.[III-22] Mars was rather ungentlemanly on the occasion, but the high -priest undertook to bring him to reason. - -This took place about the end of May, and the Romans resolved to -celebrate, from the 9th of the following June, the festival of the -patroness of Roman millers, and of her sisters, the newly elected -divinities; the ceremony was worthy of those for whose apotheosis it was -instituted, and every year, on the same day, new rejoicings consecrated -this great event.[III-23] - -The mills ceased to turn and to grind, a profound silence reigned in the -mills; the asses, patient and indefatigable movers of an incessant -rotation, took a lively part, whether or no, in the festivals of which -they became the principal actors. These honest creatures’ heads[III-24] -were crowned with roses, and necklaces of little leaves encircled their -necks and fell gracefully on their chests;[III-25] we need not add that, -on this day, the thick bandages which generally covered the eyes of -these useful labourers were removed.[III-26] - -Independently of this annual solemnity, the asses, turners of the mills, -had sometimes their windfalls,--that is to say, hours of holiday, during -which they could freely graze on the neighbouring thistles. This -happened when an awkward slave performed badly the duties of fanning his -master, or spilt carelessly a few drops of Falernian wine when filling -his cup. The unfortunate creature was immediately condemned to work at -the mill;[III-27] he was deprived of his name, and received in lieu that -of the quadruped he replaced--_Asinus_;[III-28] and the instrument of -his sufferings, by a refinement of strange irony, was called his -manger.[III-29] - -It sometimes happened that a free man, reduced to extreme - -[Illustration: _Pl. 5._ - -ASINUS OR JUMENTARIÆ MILL.] - -[Illustration: _Pl. 6._ - -PLAUTUS’S MILL.] - -indigence, had recourse to this hard occupation, in order to earn a -living. Plautus was obliged to work at it, and we know that he wrote -some of his comedies during the short moments of leisure allowed him by -his master the miller.[III-30] - -An important modification was subsequently made in the mechanism of -mills: we mean hydraulic mills, whose introduction into Italy is of -uncertain date, although Pomponius Sabinus asserts (but without proof), -that this discovery took place in the reign of Julius Cæsar. They were -known in Rome at the time of the Emperor Augustus, and Vitruvius -mentions them.[III-31] More than sixty years afterwards, Pliny speaks of -them as rare and extraordinary machines.[III-32] - -Some writers have thought that _hydraulæ_, or _hydromilæ_, watermills, -were invented by Vitruvius, and that this celebrated architect made -experiments with them, which were forgotten or neglected after his -death.[III-33] Curious readers, who are not afraid of the venerable dust -with which time has covered many useful though despised books, will -consult with benefit the learned treatise of Goetzius on the mills of -the ancients, printed in the year 1730.[III-34] - -Strabo, who flourished under the Emperor Augustus, tells us a watermill -was to be seen near the town of Cabire and the palace of -Mithridates.[III-35] - -Nevertheless, this useful invention, which we could not now dispense -with, made so little progress during four centuries that princes thought -it a duty to protect, by several laws, those establishments, still rare, -but which people began to appreciate. Honorius and Arcadius decreed, in -398, that any person who turned the water from mills for his own profit, -should be punished by a fine of five pounds weight in gold; and that any -magistrate encouraging such an act should pay a like sum.[III-36] The -Emperor Zeno[III-37] maintained this law, and rendered it still more -stringent by adding, that the edifices or land into which the water had -been turned should be confiscated.[III-38] - -It is to be regretted that the precise origin of the miller’s profession -cannot be traced; but, alas! in almost all the arts which tend to -preserve life, we discover the same uncertainty: we are ignorant of the -period of their discovery, and it frequently happens that but few traces -of their development remain. On the contrary, the dates of battles, or -scourges which have decimated the human race, are certain enough: the -stain of blood leaves an impression which can never be effaced. - -In the midst of the conflicting opinions of the writers of antiquity, -what appears most probable is, that watermills were invented in Asia -Minor, and that they were not really used in Rome till the reign of -Honorius and Arcadius. - -Under the rule of the Emperor Justinian, when the Goths besieged the -Roman city,[III-39] the celebrated Belisarius thought of constructing -some on the Tiber. The means which he employed were simple and -ingenious. Two boats firmly fixed, at two feet distance from each other, -caused the stream to give a rapid motion to the hydraulic wheel, -suspended by its axle between these lateral points of support; and this -wheel turned the mills.[III-40] This system differed but little from -that of Vitruvius, which he described more than five centuries before, -and is explained in a few words. A little wheel, fixed to the axle of -the hydraulic wheel, turned a third wheel, adhering to the axle of the -upper grindstone, and the corn fell between the two stones in passing -from the hopper placed above.[III-41] - -These grindstones were made of a kind of porous lava, which retained its -roughness, or rather, its roughness was renewed, by the continual -friction.[III-42] - -The introduction of watermills, however, did not prevent the use of -those worked by hand, which habit, cheapness, and facility of removal -recommended: these antique mills of the Hebrews, the Egyptians, and the -Greeks of the heroic times, were only five feet high. Each family was -supplied with as many as they might require. In the residence of -Ulysses, that great king of little Ithaca, there were as many as twelve. -Women turned the mills, and were obliged to deliver a certain quantity -of flour before leaving the task imposed on them.[III-43] - -Corn was at first ground in a portative hand mill; by the Britons, women -and young girls were employed in this kind of labour.[III-44] - -It is, however, probable that watermills were known at a very early -period in England. Strutt cites a passage from a charter by Ulfere, in -664, which warrants the supposition.[III-45] - -It would be difficult to point out the precise date of the first -employment of mills; nevertheless, Somner informs us, in his -“Antiquities of Canterbury,”[III-46] that the Anglo-Normans of that -place ground their corn. “There was,” says he, “sometime a windmill -standing neare the nonnery without Ridingate, which the hospitall held -by the grant of the nonnes there: the conditions mutually agreed upon, -at the time of the grant, were that the nonnes, bearing the fourth part -of the charge of the mill, should reap the fourth part of the profit of -it, &c. * * * and this about the reign of King John.” - -The bran was separated from the flour by means of a sieve; the dough was -made, and sent to the bakers to be baked. The poor contented themselves -with cakes baked under the ashes.[III-47] - -Something remains to be said of windmills. We will say but little on the -subject: this aerial mechanism--which the knight-errant, Don Quixote, of -imperishable memory, thought it necessary to fight with sword and -lance--was unknown before the Christian era in any nation whose writers -have transmitted to us the least traces of their civilisation; but -nothing proves that windmills were unknown to others. This opinion seems -to be well-founded, from a passage of the chronicler Winceslaus, who -relates, in his “History of Bohemia,” that the first watermill raised in -that country was in the year of Christ 718, and that no other was in use -before (_antea_) but mills built on the summit of mountains, which were -put in motion by the wind.[III-48] It appears, then, that there is some -untruth in the assertion, that this sort of mill was introduced into -Europe, about the year 1040, by the first Crusaders, on their return -from the East.[III-49] At all events this question is no doubt very -deserving the laborious search of the learned; it has but a secondary -interest for the gastrophilist. It matters little to him whether he owes -the grinding of his corn to the breath of a zephyr or to the slimy -source of a river; all he requires is good flour, because it enters into -a great number of culinary preparations--and, first of all, bread is -made from it. - - - - -IV. - -MANIPULATION OF FLOUR. - - -Man has not always eaten fine wheaten bread, biscuits, or sponge cakes; -and, for many centuries, the inexperience of his palate prevented his -imagining or understanding those magiric combinations, that science of -good living,[IV-1] which requires time and serious study. Nature makes -us hungry; art creates, modifies, and directs the appetite--these are -incontestable truths, which this work will serve to unfold, and, if -necessary, to prove, should any of our readers unfortunately not be -already convinced of the depth of these wise axioms. - -Let us go no further back than the year 2000 before the Christian era, -and enter together the tent of the father of nations--_Abraham_. We -might lead you to the fire-side of each of the nineteen patriarchs who -preceded him, but that would take us too far. - -In the interior of this nomad dwelling, Sarah, the venerable companion -of the Pastor-King, has just prepared, with flour and water, round -pieces of flattened paste, which she places on the hearth, and covers -afterwards with hot ashes.[IV-2] It was thus that princes and servants -made bread in the East. The Jewish people who inhabited the Desert ate -no other kind;[IV-3] and the Prophet Elijah, reposing under the shade of -a juniper tree, appeased his hunger with this simple and primitive -food.[IV-4] Sometimes, however, at certain periods of solemnity, the -Hebrews used a gridiron, placed on the coals, or a frying-pan, into -which they put the paste;[IV-5] but these various modes of cooking -produced a kind of cake, dry, thin, and brittle,[IV-6] somewhat like the -Jewish Passover cake, which was broken by the hand without the aid of a -knife;[IV-7] they were called _lechem_, choice and chief food,[IV-8] and -the mother of the family generally renewed them each day.[IV-9] The -inhabitants of the East thought so much of bread, that it was considered -a special mark of regard and hospitality to the person to whom it was -offered.[IV-10] Boaz says to Ruth: “At meal time come thou hither and -eat of the bread, and dip thy morsel in the vinegar.”[IV-11] - -Although the use of bread without leaven and baked under the ashes was -common among the Jews,[IV-12] it is nevertheless evident that they knew -and employed, at an early period, some substance to raise the dough, -which they designated by the name of _seor_. It was, perhaps, flour -diluted with water left to get sour. Pliny assures us that of all means -employed by the ancients to render bread savoury and light, this is the -most simple and easy.[IV-13] - -It appears not unlikely that the Hebrews learned from the Egyptians how -to prepare the leaven they made use of. The period at which an allusion -is made to it for the first time, in the Bible, renders this supposition -likely. It is when the people of God were about to escape from the -slavery of the Egyptians, and are preparing to celebrate the Passover, -on the eve of their setting out for the Desert.[IV-14] The Israelites, -therefore, knew how to make bread more digestive and of better taste -than is generally believed--not so good, perhaps, as our delicate fancy -bread, but better than the clumsy lumps of paste baked under the ashes, -in the frying-pan, or on the gridiron.[IV-15] They had also ovens at a -very distant period of their history--some four thousand years -ago.[IV-16] These ovens were made with bricks or clay; afterwards they -used iron and brass;[IV-17] but nothing in the Holy Writings shows us -that any one exercised among them the trade of a baker, at least at this -early period, nor, indeed, very much later. - -The chief baker or butler, whose punishment and death Joseph foretold, -when he interpreted that officer’s dream, was an Egyptian, and belonged -to King Pharaoh.[IV-18] - -Hitherto an infallible book has been our guide; let us now dive into the -dark and almost boundless regions of fabulous antiquity. - -The most frightful god of which the fevered imagination of man could -possibly form an idea--a god with the face and legs of a goat, the -horrible Pan!--according to some credulous writers, taught mortals the -art of making and baking bread. The name even of this food, they say, -furnishes an incontestable proof of this assertion.[IV-19] You are -mistaken, reply more sensible writers; it is in the Greek word _pan_, -signifying _all_, that we must seek the etymology of this nutritious -substance, which accompanies all other aliments, takes their place if -needful, and agrees equally with all mankind.[IV-20] - -This, one would think, is conclusive; but the learned, the philologist, -and every Procrustes of literature, protests against a halt with so fair -a field before him. It is from the word _pascere_,[IV-21] proudly -exclaims another interpreter, that the substantive, bread, is -derived.[IV-22] This word has been rather disfigured on its way: think -of the length of time it has been travelling down to us. - -Ceres taught the Greeks how to cultivate corn; they learned from -Megalarte and Megalomaze how to knead flour and bake it in ovens.[IV-23] -The gratitude of the Bœotians erected statues and altars to their -memories, and shortly after, Greece could boast of having obtained the -most skilful bakers in the world. The bread of Athens and Megara had a -well deserved reputation: its whiteness dazzled the eye, and its taste -was exquisite.[IV-24] This voluptuous and fickle nation very soon began -to tire of so intelligent and simple a manipulation, and must needs mix -with the paste a host of ingredients which greatly altered its flavour: -and seventy-two different sorts of bread[IV-25] took birth from the -scientific association of milk, oil, honey, cheese, and wine with the -best flour.[IV-26] All these varieties were called by the generic name -of _artos_, bread; to which was added an epithet which prevented the -mistaking of one kind for another. - -The bread-market at Athens was very amusing; women (for the fair sex -busied themselves with this trade) waited, seated, by the side of their -baskets until Mercury should send them customers, and woe to those who -came late, or whose evil genius led them to find fault with either the -quality, quantity, or price of the goods. Have you ever heard the ladies -of Billingsgate playing off their pleasant jokes on a timid countryman, -or a foreigner, whose accent had betrayed him? It is a running fire of -puns and crude picturesque expressions which nothing can resist; our -Greek market-women would have been more than a match for them--can we -bestow upon them greater praise?[IV-27] - -Some of them sold _azumos_, a delicate sort of biscuit, but rather -tasteless, prepared without leaven;[IV-28] others--irresistible -syrens--invited children to taste of the relishing _artolaganos_, in -which a renowned baker had the talent of introducing wine, pepper, oil, -and milk.[IV-29] Here the sparkling eyes of a rich epicurean were on -the look out for some _escarites_, a very light paste, seasoned with new -sweet wine and honey,[IV-30] and which was relished even by fatigued -appetites at the close of a repast.[IV-31] The poorer people made their -choice among heaps of _dolyres_, or _typhes_: they were coarse compounds -of rye and barley;[IV-32] the ladies of fashion (_petites maitresses_) -preferred the puff cakes called _placites_,[IV-33] or the sweet -_melitutes_, whose exquisite and perfumed flour was delicately kneaded -with the precious honey of Mount Hymettus.[IV-34] Lastly, the robust -workman of the Pyræus bought the _tyrontes_, bread mixed with -cheese,[IV-35] which the higher classes of society in Athens abhorred, -and which even the middling classes excluded from their tables. - -Let us add to this imperfect enumeration, that the Greeks baked their -bread in several different manners: some in ovens, others under ashes, -over charcoal, or between two pieces of iron, similar to our _gauffre_ -moulds, and under a bell, or cover of some metal with a rim round the -top, and fire over it.[IV-36] For making a batch of bread, they employed -nine pounds six ounces of leaven to twelve bushels of flour.[IV-37] With -regard to their ovens, in the construction of which they excelled, they -always took particular care to place them near a handmill,[IV-38] in -order that the various processes that the wheat had to undergo should -take place with ease and promptitude. - -The Romans were for a long time _Pultiphagists_, or eaters of gruel, -&c.;[IV-39] and it would be difficult to ascertain with accuracy the -precise period at which they gave a preference to bread; they no doubt -knew of it before the year 365 of Rome, for, at the siege of the Capitol -by the Gauls, Jupiter, who protected the besieged, thought of nothing -better to get them out of their difficulties than to appear at night to -their general, Manlius, and to give him the following advice: “Make,” -said he, “bread with all the flour you have left in store, and throw it -to the enemy to show them that Rome has no apprehension of being reduced -by famine.” This stratagem, worthy of a Merry Andrew, pleased Manlius so -much, that he immediately put it into execution. The Gauls fled, Master -Jupiter was highly delighted with the trick he had played, and thereby -the Romans got rid of this swarm of barbarians.[IV-40] - -Whether this little story be true or not, the people of Romulus had a -decided taste for gruel; it was a national dish, and was only -discontinued to be given to the soldiers, defenders of the republic, -when it was perceived that their laborious duties required more -substantial food.[IV-41] The Romans made their gruel of all kinds of -flour. - -King Numa (1715 B.C.), guided by the advice of the nymph, Egeria, taught -his subjects the art of parching corn, of converting it into flour by -means of mortars, and of making that gruel with which he liked to regale -himself. - -This good prince was rather fond of interfering in what did not concern -him, and the royal compound was afterwards cooked in the public -bakehouses, which the piety of the sovereign placed under the protection -of the powerful Fornax, a goddess unknown till then, and who soon became -the object of general and fervent worship.[IV-42] - -There is but one step from gruel to bread: the Romans perceived it. Thus -this favourite dish lost its reputation, and the worship of Fornax -somewhat cooled. But, on the other hand, there was still the smell of -cakes on all sides; cooking on the hearth, on the coals, in small -bell-stoves, and in large baking pans, until ultimately they became -acquainted with the use of ovens.[IV-43] - -At last, Rome began to have them built, under the reign of Tarquinius -Superbus, about 630 years before the Christian era. They were solid -constructions, immoveable, and very like those of the present -day.[IV-44] Men were employed to keep up the necessary degree of heat; -and their useful profession (thanks to the strange caprices which so -tyrannically rule the social hierarchy) became one of the vilest and -most sordid occupations in the capital of the world.[IV-45] These ovens -were ordered to be built far away from all edifices, in order to prevent -accidents by fire;[IV-46] an excellent precaution, where so many -incautious and merry old gossips came daily to bake their bread. - -Once there, those worthy plebeians amused themselves by giving full -scope to their noisy fun, slandering their neighbours freely and -charitably, telling each other all the little scandal they had picked up -here and there, among the good souls in their neighbourhood. Hence these -public places of labour and incessant babbling were called the “gossip -bakehouses.”[IV-47] - -These joyous meetings continued until the arrival of Greek bakers, 170 -years B.C., who followed the victorious armies of the republic on their -return from Macedonia.[IV-48] These new operatives effected a complete -revolution in the art of making bread: they reformed the taste of their -masters, and, by degrees, the proverbial frugality of the conquerors of -the universe gave way to the exquisite researches and wonderful -delicacies of those whom they had subdued. - -The Romans perceived the importance of perpetuating the talent of these -strangers, and converting it eventually into a national industry. With -these views, they gave them Roman colleagues, and subsequently they were -formed into a college, or sort of association, which no member could -quit on any pretext whatever. The son followed his father’s profession, -and he who married the daughter of a baker became one himself.[IV-49] -Sometimes one of these privileged artisans was raised to the dignity of -senator, as an honour to his colleagues; but in that case he was -required to abandon his fortune to the person who took his place; he -might, however, decline the dignity, and remain at his -kneading-trough.[IV-50] All alliances with gladiators and comedians were -interdicted them; and the law decreed that the delinquent guilty of such -dishonour should be first scourged, then banished, and that his property -should be confiscated for the benefit of the community.[IV-51] Finally, -the prodigal baker was assimilated with the dishonest bankrupt, and -expelled the college.[IV-52] - -The above details on some of the dispositions of the law regarding this -interesting corporation, sufficiently prove the importance that the -Roman government attached to it, and wished it should always maintain. - -The bakers of Rome received from the public granaries whatever they -required, at a price fixed by the magistrate. If the officer charged -with the distribution of it gave a bad quality, or exacted a bribe to -supply good corn, that officer was disgraced, and he became forever a -journeyman baker.[IV-53] - -Independently of public bakeries, the number of which reached 329 under -the reign of Augustus, there were also, in the houses of the wealthy, -slaves whose sole occupation was the making of bread, and these slaves -brought an exorbitant price when they excelled in their art.[IV-54] They -used portable ovens, made of iron or earthenware, under which they -placed red-hot coals. Sometimes they employed a round brass vessel with -a cover, which was put under the flames. In the houses where the -greatest luxury reigned, they had a kind of silver mould, from which the -bread was taken, and served to the guests.[IV-55] - -It is absolutely necessary to dive into the private life of the Roman -people, and not to neglect any of their domestic customs (accounts of -which are scattered here and there, in the writings of the more serious -historians, and among the dangerous frivolities of certain poets), if we -wish to have a correct idea of the excessive refinement which the -opulent classes evinced, even in the most ordinary things. - -Modern nations are satisfied with the bread more or less white, and even -bear, without much complaint, certain illicit mixtures, in which various -heterogeneous substances are sometimes strangely amalgamated; but this -was not the case in Rome. The prefect of provisions (_præfectus annonæ_) -was scrupulously careful to see that the supply of bread was abundant; -that it was of exact weight; that the manipulation of it was excellent; -and that it was made of the best flour the public granaries contained. - -As we have already observed, that was one of the most serious cares of -the government on behalf of a people who only required two things--bread -and the circus,[IV-56] and whose ferocity, when pressed by hunger, knew -no bounds.[IV-57] - -They studied carefully every modification that the art of baking might -seem to require: they examined the leaven in use, and experimented with -new kinds. The following are the compositions Pliny has transmitted to -us:-- - -The Romans thought much of millet for their leaven; they mixed it with -sweet wine, in which they let it ferment a year. - -They employed, also, wheat bran, soaked for three days in sweet white -wine, and dried in the sun. Of this they diluted a certain quantity at -the time of making bread, which was left to ferment in the best wheat -flour, and afterwards mixed with the entire mass. - -The leavens just mentioned were made during the vintage; the rest of the -year they were replaced by the following:--A dish containing two pounds -of barley paste was placed on red-hot coals, and heated until ebulition -commenced. It was put into vessels till it became sour. - -Very often leaven was procured from dough just made. A piece was taken -from the mass previous to salt being added; it was then left to turn -sour, and might be used the next day. - -The celebrated naturalist who supplies these details, tells us that, in -his time, the Gauls and Spaniards, after having made a drink from wheat, -saved the scum to raise the dough, and that their bread was the lightest -of all.[IV-58] - -It would be difficult to form an idea of the prodigious luxury which -Rome introduced into an aliment so common, and of such universal use as -bread. Its name, its form, and flavour indicated the various ranks of -society to which it belonged.[IV-59] There was the senator’s bread, that -of the knights, of the citizens, of the people, and that of the -peasants.[IV-60] - -Let us go together under the vast galleries supported by those -magnificent arcades.[IV-61] The _ediles_ have preceded us; they are -visiting the shops;[IV-62] it is the _Forum Pistrinum_, or bread-market. -The year is good: a _septier_ (five bushels) of wheat is only -twenty-five shillings,[IV-63] and provisions of all kinds abound in -Rome. Foreigners, also, are here, attracted by curiosity; for Vespasian -is preparing to deposit with solemnity the spoils of Jerusalem in the -temple of Peace.[IV-64] - -In the middle of the inclosure you see the statue of Vesta, the goddess -worshipped by bakers.[IV-65] In the front, and round the gallery, those -open stalls are loaded with a number of round loaves of the same form -and weight: they are all five inches in thickness; the top is divided by -eight notches--that is to say, they are first divided across, and the -four parts are again subdivided.[IV-66] These lines are made in the -dough, so that they may be more easily broken. - -The Roman gentry and shopkeepers give the preference to this sort of -household bread, simply composed of flour, water, and salt.[IV-67] - -You perceive, here and there, several baskets, full of heavy biscuits; -they are called _autopyron_; it is a coarse, black food, composed of -bran mixed with a little flour, and made expressly for the dogs and -slaves.[IV-68] - -Do you see that colossal-looking man, with enormous limbs, who is -walking about with an air of stupidity, and whose small head is covered -with scars? The dealers know his profession, and one of them offers him -the _athletæ’s_ bread; it is kneaded, without leaven, with soft, white -curd cheese, and is a coarse, heavy food, which that class of people -seem to partake of with great delight.[IV-69] That stout baker before us -occupies two of the most spacious shops in the market, on the left of -the statue; he is one of the richest members of the corporation, and is -the principal purveyor for the camp and army. Those large sacks, placed -before him with so much symmetry, contain the _buccellatum_ biscuit, or -dried bread for the troops.[IV-70] - -His neighbour (called the Greek), was born at Athens; he is the -fashionable purveyor to the princes, senators, and sybarites of Rome. No -one understands so well as himself the art of mixing salt, oil, and -milk with the best wheaten flour; an exquisite combination, which -produces the celebrated bread of Cappadocia, served only on the tables -of the wealthy.[IV-71] With the _artoplites_, a light bread, made with -the best wheaten flour, and baked in a mould, it is the only kind of -which refined persons can partake.[IV-72] If we were not afraid of -tiring you, we could point out many other sorts of bread which abound in -the _Forum Pistrinum_, for there is some for all tastes and classes, -from the _artopticii_, baked in moulds,[IV-73] a most nutritious and -digestive bread, down to the _furfuraceus_, a mass of indigestible bran -that the wildest savages among the Scythians could not have swallowed -with impunity. - -We should have spoken to you of the _astrologicus_ bread, the paste of -which is similar to that we use in our days to make fritters, commonly -called batter. - -Also of the _cacabaceus_, which is indebted for its agreeable and spicy -flavour to the water, which is previously boiled in a kind of bronzed -stewpan; and the _siligineus_ bread, made of the best flour. Its -manipulation is difficult and tedious; no matter--the epicurean prefers -it, when, by chance, he happens to be hungry.[IV-74] - -Neither ought we to forget the _panis madidus_, a species of paste made -of milk and flour, with which the fashionable ladies and effeminate -dandies covered their faces before going to bed, to preserve the -freshness and beauty of their complexion.[IV-75] - -But this enumeration may appear to you idle and endless; let us, -therefore, leave the market and assist at the distribution of bread -_civilis_ among the people, of which thirteen ounces is given to each -person;[IV-76] we will then give a rapid glance at the various other -_cereals_ besides wheat, which, in some shape or other, are converted -into food. - - DESCRIPTION OF PLATE No. VII. - - BREAD.--No. 1. In Herculaneum there were found two entire loaves of - the same dimension, being 13½ inches in diameter, and 3½ - inches thick. Each had eight divisions cut on the top, that is to - say,--a cross was first marked, and between each, another division - was made; some had stamps on the top. - - No. 2. At Pompeii, in a shop near the Pantheon, were discovered - bronze moulds for pastry and bread. - - No. 3. The Cappadocia bread, made in a mould, found at Pompeii. - - No. 4. The mould for the above. - -The customs of the middle ages cannot be better illustrated than by -adding the following curious notes: - -The Norman kings subjected the bakers to very severe laws with - -[Illustration: _Pl. 7._] - -respect to the weight and price of bread. The first offence was punished -by the confiscation of their bread; the second by a fine; and the third -by the pillory.[IV-77] - -Saint Louis made statutes for the bakers of Paris. He forbade them to -bake on Sunday or any festival day, under pain of a fine of eighteen -sous (about eight pence), and a certain quantity of bread. But he gave -them permission to open their shops and _sell_ every day of the year -without exception.[IV-78] - -In the 17th century, a new regulation was made concerning bakers; they -were to bake “daily, and have always on sale three kinds of bread, viz., -that known as _pain de chalis_, of twelve ounces; _pain de chapitre_, of -ten ounces; and brownish household bread, of sixteen ounces. The price -of each to be _douze deniers_ (a halfpenny), marked by the baker with -his own particular mark.” They were also permitted to make “rolls and -other sorts,” but not to expose them for sale “under pain of being fined -four hundred Paris livres (a little more than twelve pounds -sterling).”[IV-79] - -Master-bakers were admitted at Paris, in the 14th century, in the -following manner:-- - -When a young man had been successively winnower, sifter, kneader, and -foreman, he could, by paying a certain amount to the king as legiance -money, become an aspirant-baker, and commence business on his own -account. Four years after, he was received as master by going through -certain formalities. On a given day, he set out from his house, followed -by all the bakers of the town, and repaired to the residence of the -master of the bakers, to whom he presented a new pot filled with nuts, -saying: “Master, I have accomplished my four years; here is my pot of -nuts.” Then the master of the bakers asked the secretary of the trade -whether that were true, and having received a reply in the affirmative, -the master of the bakers returned the pot to the aspirant, who broke it -against the wall, and was at once reckoned amongst the masters. - -Let us reckon up the different kinds of bread that were in use at that -epoch: - -The bread made simply with flour, water, salt, and yeast--the common -bread; the best was made at Chailly or Gonesse. - -The bread cooked in hot water--_pain échaudé_ (in England, we should -call it baked dumpling). - -The bread made of the finest flour, beaten a long time with two -sticks--pounded bread. - -The bread made of the very finest and purest flour (biscuit flour) -slightly baked--roll bread. - -The bread made of fine flour, kneaded with butter, and sprinkled with -whole wheat--sheep bread. - -The bread made of fine flour, eggs and milk--Christmas bread. - -And lastly, rye bread, kneaded with spice, honey, or -sugar--gingerbread.[IV-80] - - - - -V. - -FRUMENTA. - - -Do not be alarmed, fair readers, at the Latin noun which heads this -chapter: tolerate it in consideration of our promise seldom to solicit a -like favour. It meant, among the Latins, all the plants which produce -ears of corn,[V-1] the seeds of which can be converted into flour.[V-2] -Clearly there never was a more innocent expression. - -_Barley_ seems to claim the first place among cereals of the second -order; the Greeks looked upon it as the happy symbol of fertility,[V-3] -and the ancient inhabitants of Italy gave it a name (_hordeum_) which, -perhaps, recalled to their mind the use mankind made of it before wheat -was known (_exordium_).[V-4] - -The Jews had a great esteem for barley, and sacred history generally -assimilates it to wheat, when the fruits of the earth are mentioned. -Thus a beloved spot produces both these plants:[V-5] Shobi offered to -David wheat and barley;[V-6] and Solomon promises twenty thousand sacks -of wheat and as much barley to the workmen charged with cutting down the -cedars of Lebanon.[V-7] - -The Greeks and Romans did not carry their love for this grain so far as -the Hebrews. In Rome it was the food of the flocks and cowards.[V-8] In -Lacedæmon and at Athens the gladiators and common people had no other -aliment;[V-9] they made it into barley-gruel (_alphiton_), the -composition of which was very simple, and would not probably tempt a -modern Lucullus. Here is the recipe of this ancient and national dish:-- - -Dry, near the fire or in the oven, twenty pounds of barley flour, then -parch it. Add three pounds of linseed meal, half a pound of coriander -seed, two ounces of salt, and the quantity of water necessary.[V-10] To -this mixture of ingredients the Italian epicureans added a little -millet, so as to give the paste more cohesion and delicacy.[V-11] - -This culinary preparation must appear rather unworthy of those nations -who so completely eclipsed all the gastronomic glories of the universe; -wherefore let us hasten to reinstate them as men of taste and exquisite -intelligence, by citing a more learned combination, which obtained the -judicious patronage of the Archestrates and Apicii:-- - -Take pearl barley, pound it in a mortar, make use of the flour only, and -put it in a saucepan; pour on it by degrees some of the best oil; with -that certainty which science alone gives to the hand, and stir it -carefully, whilst a slow, equal fire performs the great work of cookery. -Be, above all, attentive to enrich it, at proper intervals, with a -delicate gravy extracted from a young fat chicken or from a succulent -lamb. Unceasingly watch, lest the ebullition, by going on too rapidly, -force this delightful mixture to overflow the side of the vessel; and -when your practised palate informs you that it is worthy of your guests, -present it to their impatient sensuality.[V-12] - -So it appears the ancients were acquainted with pearl barley, and barley -water; the latter took the name of diet drink (_ptisana_), which we only -associate with melancholy reminiscences.[V-13] Hippocrates was not only -in raptures with the virtues and properties of this aliment,[V-14] but -he also conferred the highest praise on that sweet and insipid drink, -which our doctors order their patients, as did the oracle of Cos, and -which at that time was called “barley broth.”[V-15] - -_Oats_ occupied an honourable place after barley. Pliny fancied these -two plants so analogous, that the owner of a field who had sown barley -might find oats at the time of harvest, whilst precisely the reverse -might happen to his neighbour.[V-16] Nature, in our days, is not subject -to such frolics; and our farmers are tolerably certain that, by care, -labour, and God’s assistance, they will gather from the soil what they -have sown. - -“In order to develop a strong flavour of vanille in black oats, wash -this seed, boil it a moment in water, and employ the decoction as you -would potato flour, and it will form excellent creams. - -“In Normandy and Lower Britany they make with flour of oats a delicious -soup. The following is the manner they obtain it. They take white oats -and put them in the oven; when sufficiently dried, they are fanned, -cleaned, and carried to a mill, the grinders of which are freshly -sharpened. The miller takes care to hold them a little way off, in order -that they may not crush the grain, and that this last may preserve the -shape of rice; by this means they remove the whole of the -pellicle.”--PARMENTIER. - -The Greeks and Romans knew how to appreciate oatmeal:[V-17] they used it -to make a kind of gruel, such as we have already described, and also a -substantial thick milk, which they prepared as we do.[V-18] - -_Rice_ was also held in great esteem by them: they considered it as a -food very beneficial to the chest; therefore it was recommended in cases -of consumption, and to persons subject to spitting of blood.[V-19] - -_Millet_, so called from the multiplicity of its seeds,[V-20] abounded -more particularly in Gaul, in the time of Strabo.[V-21] Pliny pretends -that no grain swells so much in cooking, and he assures us that sixty -pounds of bread was obtained from a single bushel of millet, weighing -only twenty pounds.[V-22] This naturalist also speaks of another kind of -millet, coming originally from India, and which had only been in -cultivation ten years in Italy. The stalk resembled that of the reed, -and often attained the height of ten feet; its fecundity was such that a -single grain produced innumerable ears of corn;[V-23] therefore, if so -prolific, and capable of making good and economical food, why should it -not be, in 1858, cultivated largely wherever the climate may allow it? - -Some writers place _Panic Grass_ among the wheats, because certain -nations made bread of it.[V-24] The higher classes of Rome and Athens -always resisted this bad taste. They preferred spelt, or red wheat, a -super-excellent grain,[V-25] which was much honoured by the Latins, if -we can credit the charming letter, written by Pliny the younger, to -Septilius Clarus, on the occasion of a dinner, where the latter failed -to join the guests. Among other delicate dishes with which he desired to -treat his friend, he had ordered a spelt cake to be made.[V-26] This -same flour was the base of the Carthaginian pudding; which the reader -may taste if he will, here is the recipe:-- - -CARTHAGINIAN PUDDING.--Put a pound of red wheat flour into water; when -it has soaked some time, place it in a wooden bowl, add three pounds of -cream cheese, half a pound of honey, and one egg; beat this mixture well -together, and cook it on a slow fire in a stewpan.[V-27] Should this -dish not be sufficiently delicate, try the following:-- - -When you have sifted some spelt flour, put it in a wooden vessel, with -some water, which you must renew twice a day for ten days. At the end -of that time squeeze out all the water, and place the paste in another -vessel; reduce it to the consistence of thick lees, pass it through a -piece of new linen, and repeat this last operation; dry it in the sun, -and then boil it in milk.[V-28] - -As regards the exact seasoning of this exquisite Roman dish, it is your -own genius which must inspire you with the proportions. - -Let us not omit to notice the _Erupmon_ of the Greeks, the _Irion_ of -the Latins, the _Indian Wheat_ of the moderns. This plant produces a -wholesome and easily digestible food; it was well known in Italy in the -time of Pliny,[V-29] at which period the peasants used to make a crisp -sort of heavy bread, probably somewhat similar to that which is still -used in the south of France. - -Since the famine of 1847 great attention has been paid to this flour; -much was imported into England from America, where it is used in -domestic economy; when green, its milky pulp is an excellent food: the -various advantages of this flour, however, are not sufficiently -developed to give all the benefit of its goodness to the world; habit -and prejudice assist materially to prevent its being generally employed. - -The Romans also ate it as hasty-pudding, parched or roasted, with a -little salt. A writer equally remarkable for his elegant and easy style, -as well as for the justness of his observations, informs us that, in our -days, the Indian inhabitants of the unfruitful plains of Marwar never -dress Indian corn in any other way.[V-30] - -Such are the principal _graminea_ which the ancients thought worthy of -their attention, or allowed to appear on their tables, with more or less -honour according to the degree of esteem in which they were held. It is -probable that the cooks in the great gastronomic period of Rome and -Athens, who knew so well the capricious nature of their masters’ -palates,[V-31] had to borrow from magiric chemistry, then so -flourishing, some wonderful means of giving to various kinds of cereals -a culinary value they now no longer possess--what might we not expect -from a Thimbron,[V-32] a Mithoecus,[V-33] a Soterides?[V-34] This latter -performed a feat which does him too much honour to be unnoticed here. - -The King of Bithynia, Nicomedes, was taken with a strange, invincible, -and imperious longing which admitted of no delay; he ordered his cook, -Soterides, to be sent for, and commanded him to prepare instantly a dish -of loaches. “Loaches, Sire!” cried the skilful, yet terrified cook; “by -all the gods, protectors of the kingdom, where can I procure these fish -at this late hour of the night?” Kings ill brook resistance to their -will.[V-35] Nicomedes was not celebrated for patience when pressed by -hunger. “Give me loaches, I say,” replied he, with a hollow and terrible -voice; “or else----” and his clear, fearful, pantomimic expression made -the unfortunate cook understand too well that he must either obey or -immediately deliver up his head to the provost of the palace. The -alternative was embarrassing; nevertheless, Soterides thought how to get -out of the scrape. He shut himself up in his laboratory, peeled some -long radishes, and with extraordinary address gave them the form of the -fatal fish, seasoning them with oil, salt, black pepper, and doubtless -several other ingredients, the secret of which the illustrious _chef_ -has not handed down to posterity. Then, holding in his hand a dish of -irreproachable-looking fried fish, he boldly presented himself before -the prince, who was walking up and down with hasty strides awaiting his -arrival. The King of the Bithynians ate up the whole, and the next day -he condescended to inform his court that he never had loaches served he -so much liked.[V-36] This digression, which the reader will kindly -pardon, sufficiently shows to what height the art of ancient cookery was -carried, and of which this work will furnish new and abundant proofs. - -The cereals having had so much of our attention, we have now to consider -those grains or seeds which serve as the bases or necessary adjuncts to -different dishes. - - - - -VI. - -GRAINS: SEEDS. - - -One of the most important was _Mustard_ seed. Pythagoras maintains (and -no one has contradicted his assertion) that this seed occupied the first -rank amongst alimentary substances which exercise a prompt influence on -the brain.[VI-1] Indeed the ancients attributed to it the same qualities -that we do at the present day. - -Mustard, according to their opinion, excites the appetite, gives -piquancy to meat, strengthens the stomach, and facilitates digestion. It -is better suited, say they, to bilious constitutions than to lymphatic -persons; and they recommended its use in summer, rather than in -winter.[VI-2] - -The good Pliny, always disposed to adopt, without much examination, any -stories, provided they were but slightly exaggerated, was convinced, and -affirms, with his accustomed good humour, that this plant is a sovereign -remedy against the bite of the most venomous serpents: it is only -necessary to apply it to the wound. And, again, if taken inwardly, there -is nothing to fear from the poisonous effects of certain -mushrooms.[VI-3] The doctors of the 19th century are, apparently, little -inclined to adopt the method recommended by the worthy naturalist. - -Mustard seed is only mentioned in the Bible as a term of comparison; its -alimentary qualities are nowhere indicated.[VI-4] - -The Romans, and other nations after them, fermented this seed in new -sweet wine. It is from this, perhaps, we must seek for the origin of the -word mustard, “_mustum ardens_” (burning wine)[VI-5]; some gastronomic -writers give it another derivation, not generally adopted. This -condiment, say they, was formerly called _sauve_ or _senevé_. It was -only towards the close of the 14th century that this name was changed. -Philip the Bold, Duke of Burgundy, marching against the inhabitants of -Ghent, who had revolted from him, and the city of Dijon having supplied -him for this expedition with a thousand men-at-arms, the prince, in -gratitude, granted to that city, amongst other privileges, that of -bearing his arms, with his motto, “_Moult me tarde_.” The whole of this -was carved on the principal gate of Dijon, but an accident having -destroyed the middle word, the two others _moult tarde_ caused many a -smile at the expense of the Dijonnais; and as they traded in _senevé_ -(mustard), this grain was called in derision _moutarde_, when it came -from Dijon, a name it has preserved ever since.[VI-6] If this etymology -is not true, at least it is ingenious. - -_Coriander_, amongst the Romans, appears to have possessed the same -property as mustard, that is to say, they considered it was -strengthening and digestive.[VI-7] They employed it also in a very -useful manner during the great heat of summer: they mixed it with -vinegar, after it had been well bruised or pounded, and laid it over any -kind of meat, which this coating preserved in a perfect state of -freshness.[VI-8] - -Pliny classifies the bitter seed of the _Lupin_ as a grain pertaining to -that of wheat;[VI-9] and if you soak it, he says, in boiling water, it -becomes so mild that it can be eaten.[VI-10] Zeno, of Citium, was of the -same opinion. This philosopher, with all his wisdom, could not help -showing his bad temper, even towards his best friends at times, but was -very affable after he had quaffed several cups of delicious wine. One -day he was asked for an explanation of this contrast in his temper. -“That is very simple,” he replied; “I am of the same nature as the -lupins: their bitterness is insupportable before they are soaked, but -they are of an exquisite mildness when they have been well -steeped.”[VI-11] - -We strongly doubt, nevertheless, whether this plant has ever been -honoured by the patronage of connoisseurs and people of delicate taste; -a very high authority in cookery--Lycophon, of Chalcis--used to say, -with a kind of disdain, that this despicable plant was hardly good -enough for the common fare of the mob, or to feast the guests at a -beggar’s table.[VI-12] - -It was principally used as food for cattle, and not without reason, if -it be true that twenty pounds of lupins are sufficient to fatten an -ox.[VI-13] - -The lovers of etymology, who may be classified in the family of readers -of logogriphs, were in raptures at finding the following: “The Latin -name of _Lupinus_ has been given to this grain because the lupin wears -out and destroys the land nearly as the wolf destroys and devours the -flocks; whereupon they exclaimed, with pride, ‘_Lupinus à -lupo!_’ ”[VI-14] - -At the period when the gods did not exact much, but were contented with -humble offerings, men placed on the altars loaves made of _Linseed_ -meal; a treat the immortals gratefully accepted, though certainly it -would not much tempt us[VI-15] of the present day. - -The Asiatics afterwards thought of pounding the linseed, frying it, and -mixing it with honey; these cakes seemed to them too good for their -divinities, so they ate them themselves.[VI-16] - -In the time of Pliny, the Lombards and Piedmontese ate this miserable -bread of the gods, and even found in it a most agreeable flavour:[VI-17] -these nations have since improved their taste. - -Shall we mention _Hempseed_, the _Cannabis_ of the ancients, which was -served fried for dessert?[VI-18] That hemp should be spun and made into -ropes, well and good; but to regale one’s-self with it after -dinner,--when the stomach is overloaded with food, and hardly moved from -its lethargic quietude by the appearance of the most provoking viands -that art can invent--what depravity! What strange perversion of the most -simple elements of gastronomy! - -The Arabs, that wandering nation, who are not yet acquainted with the -roasting-spit, nor the voluptuousness of a delicious repast, formerly -intoxicated themselves with a beverage extracted from linseed;[VI-19] -we, who are in possession of generous wine, let us deplore such -excesses, and not imitate them. - - - - -VII. - -VEGETABLES. - - -All nations have sown vegetables, and judged them worthy of their -particular attention; sometimes they have even confounded many of these -plants with the cereals, because they were converted into flour and -bread,[VII-1] especially in time of famine.[VII-2] - -After the Deluge, when God made a covenant with Noah he said, with -respect to the food of man:--“Even as the green herb have I given you -all things;[VII-3]” and, subsequently to that epoch, the holy writers -frequently demonstrate, in their simple and interesting style, the -various uses which the Hebrews made of vegetables. Esau, pressed by -hunger, sold his birth-right to Jacob for a dish of lentils.[VII-4] - -Among the presents which David received from Shobi, were beans, lentils, -and parched pulse.[VII-5] - -The four Hebrew children were fed with vegetables, at the court of -Nebuchadnezzar, King of Babylon.[VII-6] It is sufficient, we think, to -indicate these passages, without uselessly increasing the number. - -The heroes of Homer, those men covered with iron and brass, whose -terrible blows dealt death and desolation, reposed after their exploits, -partaking of a dish of beans or a plate of peas.[VII-7] Happy simplicity -of the Homeric ages! Patrocles peeled onions! Achilles washed cabbages! -and the wise Ulysses roasted, with his own hands, a sirloin of beef! - -One day the son of Thetis received under his tent a deputation sent by -the Greeks, to entreat him to be friends with Agamemnon. The young hero, -who could only be accused of a little pride and passion, invited these -worthy personages to dinner, and, with the assistance of his friend, -gave them a magnificent banquet, in which vegetables occupied a most -conspicuous place.[VII-8] - -Sixteen Greek authors have devoted their vigils to profound researches -concerning the qualities of these useful plants; their works have not -been transmitted to us, but their names are to be found inscribed in the -gastronomic treasure which Athenæus--that grammarian, philosopher, and -epicurean--has bequeathed to the meditations of posterity.[VII-9] - -But it is principally with the Romans that this interesting branch of -the magiric art flourished. They have told us that this great family of -herbs took the name of vegetables (_legumina_), because they were chosen -and picked by the hand;[VII-10] and their most celebrated -horticulturists have prided themselves on the preparation of the ground -to which they were confided, on the attention which they claimed, and on -the Hygeian virtues which experience attributed to them. Heathen -theology, too, consecrated several of them to the solemnities of their -religion, and some nations even considered them worthy of their homage -and the fumes of incense.[VII-11] - -Virgil himself seems to regret his inability to sing of gardens and -vegetables. Perhaps a rapid sketch of what the great poet says on this -subject, may not be misplaced here. - - “Si mon vaisseau long-temps égaré loin du bord, - Ne se hâtait enfin de regagner le port, - Peut-être je peindrais les Ciens chéris de Flore; - Le Narcisse en mes vers s’empresserait d’éclore, - Les roses m’ouvriraient leurs calices brillants, - Le tortueux concombre arrondirait ses flancs; - Du persil toujours vert, des pâles chicorées - Ma muse abreuverait les tiges altérées, - Je courberais le lierre et l’acanthe en berceau, - Et du myrthe amoureux j’ombragerais les eaux.”[VII-12] - -One more fact will serve to show to what extent the Romans carried their -enthusiastic affection for leguminous plants: we know that illustrious -families did not disdain to borrow their names from them. The -appellations, Fabius, Cicero, and Lentulus, thus enhanced the humble -renown of beans (_faba_), peas (_cicer arietinum_), and lentils -(_lenticula_).[VII-13] The eminent orator we have just named gave the -preference one day to a dish of beet-root, instead of oysters and -lampreys, of which he was passionately fond.[VII-14] It is true that, -since the promulgation of the Licinian law,[VII-15] which allowed but -little meat and plenty of vegetables, the voluptuaries of Rome invented -most astonishing ragouts of mushrooms and pot-herbs. So true is it that -the genius of man develops itself more particularly under difficult -circumstances, and that the art of cookery owes, perhaps, the perfection -and glory which it has attained to the impediments with which its -formidable enemy, frugality, seems always ready to surround it. - -Apicius, that profound culinary chemist, who nobly expended immense -treasures in inventing new dishes, and who killed himself[VII-16] -because the remainder of his fortune was not sufficient for him (though -to another it would have seemed magnificent)--Apicius shows us what he -believed to be the most suitable manner of preserving vegetables. -“Choose them,” he says, “before they are perfectly ripe, put them in a -vessel coated with pitch, and cover it hermetically.”[VII-17] - -The reader will decide for himself between this process and those which -science has since discovered. - -The capitulars (or statutes) of Charlemagne enter, on the subject of -vegetables, into some instructive details. They inform us that lettuces, -cresses, endive, parsley, chervil, carrots, leeks, turnips, onions, -garlic, scallions, and eschalots, were nowhere to be found, except in -the emperor’s kitchen-gardens. Charlemagne had all those vegetables -sold, and derived from them a very considerable revenue.[VII-18] - -Anderson makes an observation (under the date 1548), which deserves to -be noticed here, were it only on account of its singularity. “The -English,” says he, “cultivated scarcely any vegetable before the last -two centuries. At the commencement of the reign of Henry VIII., neither -salad, nor carrots, nor cabbages, nor radishes, nor any other -comestibles of a like nature, were grown in any part of the kingdom; -they came from Holland and Flanders.” - -According to the author of a project, printed in London in 1723, in -8vo., “for the relief of the poor, and the payment of old debts, without -the creation of new taxes,” Queen Catherine herself could not procure a -salad for her dinner. The king was obliged to send over to Holland for -a gardener to cultivate those pot-herbs, with which England is, perhaps, -better furnished now than any other country in Europe. - -Anderson asserts (1660) that cauliflowers were not known in England -until about the time of the Restoration. And, lastly, the author of the -“State of England,” printed in 1768, remarks that asparagus and -artichokes were only introduced a few years antecedent to that date. - - - - -VIII. - -DRIED VEGETABLES. - - -BEANS. - -This innocent vegetable, which with us certainly awakens no lugubrious -thoughts, was formerly consecrated to the dead. It was offered in -sacrifices to the infernal gods, and its mysterious virtues evoked by -night, spirits, and shadows.[VIII-1] The Flamen of Jupiter could not eat -it, and he was forbidden to touch a bean, or even to pronounce its -name;[VIII-2] for the fatal plant contains a little black spot, which is -no other than a noxious character--a type of death.[VIII-3] - -Pythagoras and his followers carefully avoided this dismal food, in the -fear of submitting a father, sister, or beloved wife to the danger of a -cruel mastication;[VIII-4] for who knew where wandering souls might rest -during the course of their numerous transmigrations. - -Grave writers say the cause of this abstinence is, that beans are -difficult of digestion; that they stupify those who make use of them as -food; and that hens who eat them cease to lay eggs.[VIII-5] What more -shall we say? Hippocrates, wise as he certainly was, had some of these -strange fears, and he trembled for his patients when beans were in -blossom.[VIII-6] - -In spite of such ridiculous prejudices, this plant had numerous and -enlightened defenders. When green, it was served on tables renowned for -delicacies; and, when fully ripe, it frequently replaced both wheat and -other corn.[VIII-7] One of the festivals of Apollo--the -_Pyanepsia_--owed its origin and pomp to the bean. This vegetable then -obtained preeminence over all that were boiled in the saucepan, and -offered to the God of Day and the Fine Arts.[VIII-8] Is it possible to -imagine a more brilliant rehabilitation? - -If we are to believe Isidorus, this plant was the first culinary -vegetable of which man made use;[VIII-9] he was, therefore, bound to -preserve a grateful remembrance of it. - -King David did not deem it unworthy of him,[VIII-10] and the Prophet -Ezekiel was commanded to mix it with the different grains of which he -made his bread.[VIII-11] - -We possess few certain indications proving the different culinary -combinations to which beans gave rise among the ancients. All we know -is, that they ate them boiled,[VIII-12] perhaps with bacon; -raw,[VIII-13] with salt, we should imagine; or fried[VIII-14] with fat, -butter, or oil. - -Two kinds especially attracted the attention of true connoisseurs of -that class of _gourmets_ elect, whose palate is ever testing, and whose -sure taste detects and appreciates shades, of almost imperceptible -tenuity--first, the bean of Egypt, recommended for its rich, nutritious, -and wholesome pulp; this bean was also cultivated in Syria and -Cilicia:[VIII-15] and secondly, the Greek bean, which passed at Rome for -a most delicious dish.[VIII-16] Certain gastronomists, however, -preferred another vegetable of which we are going to speak. - -Ever since the middle ages the bean has played a very important part in -the famous “Twelfth-night cake,” almost all over Europe. The ephemeral -royalty it bestowed was often sung by the poets, and consecrated in -chronicles. Thomas Randolph informs us that Lady Flemyng was queen of -the bean in 1568.[VIII-17] Some days after the Duke of Guise was -assassinated by Poltrot. History has its puerilities as well as its -great tragedies. - -The Spaniards had also their Twelfth-night cake. When John, Duke of -Braganza, had obtained the crown of Portugal (1640), Philip IV. of Spain -informed Count Olivares of the event, and added, as if it were a -consolation for the loss of a kingdom, that this new sovereign was -nothing more than a “king of the bean.”[VIII-18] Philip was mistaken. - -These cakes were made in former days nearly in the same manner that we -make them now. Sometimes they contained honey, flour, ginger, and -pepper. One portion was for God, another for the Holy Virgin, and three -others for the Magi; that is to say, they gave all these portions to the -poor.[VIII-19] - -In England the cake was often full of raisins, among which one bean and -one pea were introduced. - -“Cut the cake,” says Melibœus to Nisa; “who hath the beane shal be -kinge; and where the peaze is, shal be queene.”[VIII-20] - -“At the present day the bean is one of the vegetables most cultivated in -Egypt and Italy. At Naples, as in Egypt, they are eaten raw when young, -and the large ones cooked and grilled in the oven. They are publicly -sold already cooked.”--LEMAN. - - -HARICOTS. - -It is well known that Alexander the Great was fond of travelling, and -that he was generally accompanied in his peregrinations by a certain -number of soldiers, who occasionally took for him, on his route, cities, -provinces, and sometimes kingdoms. It happened, one day, that as the -Macedonian prince--worthy pupil of Aristotle--was herbalizing in India, -his eyes fell upon a field of haricots, which appeared to him very -inviting. It was the first time that he had seen this plant, and he -immediately ordered his cook to prepare a dish of them--we do not know -with what sauce; but he thought them good, and, thanks to this great -conqueror, Europe was enriched with a new vegetable.[VIII-21] - -Virgil was doubtless ignorant of this noble origin, when he decried -haricots severely, by qualifying them so disgracefully.[VIII-22] It is -true that the lower classes of people, who were very fond of them, did -great injury to their reputation; for things the most exquisite soon -lose their value when they fall within the reach of the vulgar. It is -thus with a pleasing melody--when given up to the barbarous and -melancholy street organs it ceases to charm the ears of drawing-room -fashionables. The same again with a plaintive ballad--it loses its -attraction the moment a street Orpheus begins to murder it with his -Stentorian bawl. - -Let it not be thought, however, that the plant of which we speak was -exclusively reserved for the vulgar appetite. Oh, no! the Greeks and -Latins had too much good taste for that. The former allowed it a -distinguished place on their tables, together with figs, and other side -dishes. They only required that haricots should be young, tender, and -green.[VIII-23] - -In Rome they were preserved with vinegar and garum; and, prepared in -this manner, they excited the appetites of the guests at the beginning -of the repast.[VIII-24] Moreover, it was admitted that this vegetable -was much more wholesome than beans, that the stomach was less fatigued -by it, and that persons of delicate constitutions might partake of it -without fear. Certain amateurs even pretended that no vegetable was to -be compared to haricots;[VIII-25] but others differed from them on this -point; and the latter, right or wrong, pronounced in favour of peas. - - -PEAS. - -Green peas, we are sorry to say, were not appreciated as they deserved -to be by the Romans.[VIII-26] It was reserved principally for our -century to discover their value, to cultivate them with care, and to -force nature to give them to us before the appointed time. This plant -was hardly known in 1550. Since that period, the gardener, Michaux, -undertook to bring it into repute. For some time in France it was called -only by the name of this worthy man.[VIII-27] - -Before that it was an unappreciated vegetable; it came forth, blossomed, -and disappeared, without utility and without renown. - -It was not thus with grey peas (_pois chiche_), which flourished at a -very remote period, and are mentioned in the sacred writings.[VIII-28] -The common people of Rome and Greece made them their ordinary food. They -ate them boiled or fried; a rather disagreeable dish, according to the -caustic Martial,[VIII-29] who, however, speaks with disdain of every -kind of peas, in whatsoever manner they may be prepared. - -Nevertheless, the satirical humour of this celebrated poet did not -prevent this vegetable from being universally sold; and men, women, and -children regaled, and even gorged, themselves, with fried grey -peas,[VIII-30] or ram peas (_cicer arietinum_), a singular name, for -which they were indebted to the slight asperity remarkable in each of -the grains.[VIII-31] - -At the Circus, and in the theatres, they were sold at a low price to the -spectators, whom it seemed impossible to satiate with this delicacy, -although it has so little attraction for us.[VIII-32] In short, the -nation of kings had so decided a taste for grey peas, that those who -coveted public employment did not fail to distribute them gratuitously -to the people, in order to obtain their suffrages.[VIII-33] We must -acknowledge that in those days votes were obtained at a very cheap rate. - - -LENTILS. - -The Egyptians, whose ideas were sometimes most eccentric, imagined it -was sufficient to feed children with lentils to enlighten their minds, -open their hearts, and render them cheerful. That people, therefore, -consumed an immense quantity of this vegetable, which from infancy had -been their principal food.[VIII-34] - -The Greeks also highly esteemed this aliment, and their ancient -philosophers regaled themselves with lentils. Zeno would not trust to -any one the cooking of them; it is true that the stoics had for their -maxim: “A wise man acts always with reason, and prepares his lentils -himself.”[VIII-35] We must confess that the great wit of these words -escapes us, although we are willing to believe there is some in them. - -However it may be, lentils were abundant in Greece and in the East; and -many persons, otherwise very sensible, maintained, with the most serious -countenance in the world, that they softened the temper and disposed the -mind to study.[VIII-36] - -It is hardly necessary to observe that this plant was well known to the -Hebrews. The red pottage of lentils for which Esau sold his -birthright,[VIII-37] the present of Shobi to David,[VIII-38] the victory -of Shammah in the field of lentils,[VIII-39] and, lastly, the bread of -Ezekiel,[VIII-40] sufficiently prove that the Jews numbered this -vegetable as one of those in ordinary use among them. - -The Romans had not the same esteem for it as the nations we have -mentioned. According to them, the moisture in lentils could only cause -heaviness to the mind, and render men reserved, indolent, and lazy. The -name of this vegetable pretty well shows, they said, the bad effect it -produces. Lentil derives its origin from the word _lentus_ -(slow),[VIII-41] “_Lens a lente_.” - -And, as if enough had not been alleged to disgrace this unfortunate -plant, and to give the finish to the ill-fame it had acquired, it was -placed amongst funereal and ill-omened foods. Thus Marcus Crassus, -waging war against the Parthians, was convinced that his army would be -defeated, because his corn was exhausted, and his men were obliged to -have recourse to lentils.[VIII-42] - -How was it possible to resist such attacks! The humble plant gave way in -spite of the few flattering words of the poetic Virgil,[VIII-43] and the -assurance of Pliny that this food produced two uncommon -virtues--mildness and moderation.[VIII-44] - - - - -IX. - -KITCHEN GARDEN. - - -The art of gardening, which may be called the luxury of -agriculture,[IX-1] was known at the most remote periods.[IX-2] In the -same inclosure was to be found the kitchen garden, orchard, and flower -garden,[IX-3] at a short distance from the habitation of the rich.[IX-4] -Royal hands did not disdain to embellish those spots which afforded a -pleasing retreat, solitude, and repose. - -Thus Attalus resigned the cares of his crown to cultivate his little -garden, and sow in it the seeds of his favourite plant.[IX-5] - -Babylon, the renowned city of antiquity, was celebrated amongst other -wonders for her gardens suspended in the air; they were partly in -existence sixteen centuries after their erection, and astonished -Alexander the Great[IX-6] by the sublime grandeur of their prodigious -boldness and the rare beauty of their workmanship. - -Homer has left us the description of Alcinous’s garden,[IX-7] from which -can be traced the birth of the art of gardening; its luxury consisted in -the order and symmetry of its form, in the richness of its soil, the -fertility of the trees, and in the two fountains which ornamented it. It -was not so with the Romans. Those conquerors of the world displayed -every where pomp and ostentation: Lucullus, Crassus, Pompey, and Cæsar, -filled their gardens with the riches of Asia and the spoils of the -universe.[IX-8] - -The serious horticulturist, who wanted a garden for enjoyment, and not -for show, carefully laboured, to see it bring forth fine fruits and -excellent vegetables.[IX-9] Water was properly distributed for -irrigation by means of aqueducts[IX-10] of tiles, wood, or lead -pipes,[IX-11] and everywhere the plants received the necessary -moisture; and clever experienced gardeners were constantly occupied in -improvements suggested by an attentive and skilful master.[IX-12] - -The kitchen garden of the ancients contained mostly the vegetables, -herbs, and roots, of which we still make use; but they also cultivated -certain other kinds, which modern cookery has either put aside or rarely -employs. We shall describe all those which appear most worthy of notice. - - -CABBAGE. - -This plant has experienced the fate of a host of human things that have -not been able to bear the weight of a too brilliant reputation. Time has -done justice to the extraordinary qualities attributed to it, and the -cabbage now remains, what it ought always to have been, an estimable -vegetable and nothing more. - -The Egyptians adored it, and raised altars to it. They afterwards made -of this strange god the first dish of their repasts, and were imitated -in this particular by the Greeks and Romans, who ascribed to it the -happy quality of preserving from drunkenness.[IX-13] It was more -particularly the red cabbage that obtained these honours and -prerogatives. From Italy the victorious legions introduced it among the -Gauls, as well as the green cabbage; the white species appears to belong -originally to southern countries. - -Hippocrates had a peculiar affection for this vegetable. Should one of -his patients be seized with a violent cholic, he at once prescribed a -dish of boiled cabbage with salt.[IX-14] Erasistratus looked upon it as -a sovereign remedy against paralysis. Pythagoras, and several other -learned philosophers, composed books in which they celebrated the -marvellous virtues of the cabbage.[IX-15] - -A writer, not less serious than those we have just quoted, the wise -Cato, affirms that this plant infallibly cures all diseases; and -pretends to have used this panacea to preserve his family from the -plague, which, otherwise, would not have failed to reach them. It is to -the use the Romans made of it, he adds, that they were able during six -hundred years to do without the assistance of physicians, whom they had -expelled from their territories.[IX-16] This bold assertion deserved a -little retaliation on the part of the faculty; so they deposed the -cabbage from the rank occupied by it in medicine, and banished it to the -kitchen. - -The Athenian ladies formerly partook of the general enthusiasm in favour -of this wholesome vegetable, which was always served to them when a -new-born infant required their maternal love and care.[IX-17] - -The ancients were acquainted with three principal kinds of cabbage: the -silken-leaved, the curled, and the hard, round, white cabbage.[IX-18] - -Apicius does not busy himself with any one of these varieties in -particular in the various preparations he points out, and which we -submit to the appreciation of connoisseurs: - -1st. Take only the most delicate and tender part of the cabbage, which -boil, and then pour off the water; season it with cummin seed,[IX-19] -salt, old wine, oil, pepper, alisander, mint, rue, coriander seed, -gravy, and oil. - -2nd. Prepare the cabbage in the manner just mentioned, and make a -seasoning of coriander seed, onion, cummin seed, pepper, a small -quantity of oil, and wine made of sun raisins.[IX-20] - -3rd. When you have boiled the cabbages in water, put them into a -saucepan and stew them with gravy, oil, wine, cummin seed, pepper, -leeks, and green coriander.[IX-21] - -4th. Add to the preceding ingredients flour of almonds, and raisins -dried in the sun.[IX-22] - -5th. Prepare them again in the above manner, and cook them with green -olives.[IX-23] - -Who will question the service rendered to the culinary art by -resuscitating these antique dishes, in which the cabbage admits of such -a variety of combinations, and which we owe to the learning and -experience of a man of taste? Whatever may be the opinion of our modern -Trimalcions, we must not forget that this vegetable, prepared according -to the recipe of Apicius, was the delight of the _gourmets_ of Rome more -than eighteen centuries ago. - -The Romans brought the red cabbage into Gaul, and the green cabbage -also. White cabbages came from the north, and the art of making them -headed was unknown in the time of Charlemagne.[IX-24] - -“In some countries cauliflowers are dried, and the white headed cabbages -are preserved. The first, stripped of their leaves, are cut in slices, -and boiled two minutes in water slightly salted. They are shortly after -withdrawn, and put to drain on hurdles, which are afterwards exposed to -the sun during two or three days. At the expiration of that time the -cauliflowers are placed in an oven half-warm, and are kept there till -the stalks are dry; they are then wrapped in paper to preserve them from -damp. To keep the headed cabbages, divide them in six or eight pieces, -according to size, throw them for an instant in boiling water, then -withdraw and plunge them in vinegar, which from time to time must be -changed, especially at the beginning, taking care to add always a little -salt.”--DUTOUR. - - -BEET. - -Columella pretends that this plant owes its name (_beta_) to its -resemblance to the letter B.[IX-25] We shall leave to the professional -etymologist the trouble of examining whether Columella made a mistake or -not. - -The Greeks had two distinct sorts of beet--the black and the pale; they -preferred the latter,[IX-26] especially when it came from Ascrea in -Bœotia.[IX-27] They called this species Sicilian beet; and the -physician Diphilus--who joined to his knowledge of botany that sort of -gastrophagic intuition, that culinary _mens divinior_, whose inspiration -never leads astray--placed it far above the cabbage, notwithstanding the -estimable qualities of this latter vegetable.[IX-28] He recommended it -to be eaten boiled, with mustard, and considers this food as a very -excellent vermifuge.[IX-29] - -The beet has not found favour with Martial, who, always caustic and -severe, calls it an insipid dish.[IX-30] This injurious, and perhaps -unjust, epithet would doubtless have exercised a fatal influence upon -the destiny of this most inoffensive of vegetables, if an opponent of -greater weight had not entered the lists against the atrabilarious poet. - -We read in Apicius: “Boil, over a slow fire, some very tender white -beet; add leeks, which have been taken from their native soil some days -previous; when all this is cooked put it into a saucepan with pepper, -gravy, and raisin wine; take care that the ebullition be regular, and -serve.[IX-31] - -“Or, if you prefer: tie in bundles the beet you have carefully chosen, -wash it, throw in some nitre, and boil it with water; then put it into a -saucepan with sun-raisin wine, pepper, cummin, and a little oil; at the -moment of ebullition add a mixture of gravy and coarsely chopped -walnuts; cover the saucepan for an instant, uncover, and serve.”[IX-32] - -The skilful artist is pleased for the third time to mention this -culinary herb; and this is the new preparation which he gives:-- - -“When you have boiled beet in water until it is tender, add a pulp of -leeks, some coriander, and cummin seed, carefully combined with flour -and sun-made wine; place these different ingredients in a saucepan, and -add gravy, oil, and vinegar.”[IX-33] - -By tasting one of these dishes you will be convinced that Martial did -not understand them; or, perhaps, he composed his epigram after dinner. - -One species of beet is well known in its two principal varieties, under -the name of beet-root and white-beet. The southern parts of Europe -appear to be the native countries of the beet. It serves as food for -both man and cattle. Sugar is extracted from the root, and potash from -the stalks and leaves. - -Beet-root is preserved, after stripping it completely of its leaves, and -the earth which remains on them, in greenhouses, in dry cellars, and -even in trenches covered with earth, in layers, lengthwise, with sand. -They are thus preserved until the following May. - -“Beet-root is eaten cooked in ashes or in water, and seasoned in various -ways; they are excellent in salad, either by themselves, or mixed with -endives or dandelion, &c.”--BOSC. - - -SPINACH. - -It does not appear that spinach was known to the Greeks and Romans. Some -authors think that it might be the _chrysolacanon_ of the Greeks,[IX-34] -but it is probable that this was no other than the _orach_;[IX-35] -Beckmann[IX-36] thinks, with several botanists, that this plant came -from Spain; and, indeed, it has been often called the _Spanish -vegetable_.[IX-37] - -We only speak of this plant by way of memento, and regret that our -first masters in cookery have not been able to transmit to us the -results of their studies and experience in the preparation of spinach, -whose precocity must always render it valuable to amateurs of vegetable -food. - - -MALLOWS. - -The ancients ate mallows, and recognised in them soothing and softening -qualities.[IX-38] Diphilus of Siphne says that their juice lubricates -the windpipe, nourishes, and is easily digested.[IX-39] Horace praises -this aliment;[IX-40] and Martial, for once just, recommends its -use.[IX-41] - -It is true that a passage of Cicero would seem to indicate we know not -what deception, which appeared all at once when eating or after -partaking of mallows;[IX-42] but the Roman orator, perhaps, knew little -of the properties of the plant, which were only described much later by -Pliny the naturalist. The curious may consult on this subject the -twenty-first chapter of the twentieth book of his great work. - -At all events mallows were in high renown; they occupied one of the -first ranks among pickles, those famous _acetaria_ which had so powerful -an effect in quickening the appetites of the Greeks, and preparing their -stomachs for great gastronomic struggles.[IX-43] They were served as a -salad. The large-leaved mallow was mixed with œnogarum, pepper, -gravy, and sun-made wine.[IX-44] - -The small-leaved mallows were also prepared with œnogarum and gravy; -but instead of pepper and wine, oil and vinegar were added.[IX-45] - - -ASPARAGUS. - -“_Quiconque ne voit guère n’a guère à dire aussi._”[IX-46] But -travellers, those daring pioneers of science, have sometimes, in their -travels, the strange good fortune to behold wonders invisible to other -eyes. Thus some skilful explorators of Africa saw, about the middle of -the second century of the Christian era, in Getulia, asparagus of -excellent quality and of very beautiful growth, being no less than -twelve feet high! It is needless to add that the Libyan vendors rarely -sold them in bundles. But these veridical travellers, on quitting the -plain to ascend the mountains, found something still more wonderful; the -land there seemed to suit these plants still better, for they acquired -the height of twenty cubits.[IX-47] After this, what shall we say of our -European asparagus, so shrivelled and diminutive in comparison with that -of Getulia? - -The Greeks, not having any better, contented themselves with the -ordinary sort, such as we have at the present day. They considered it -very useful in the treatment of internal diseases.[IX-48] Diphilus, who -was very fond of it, regrets that this vegetable should be so hurtful to -the sight:[IX-49] is it because we eat asparagus that spectacles have -become necessary at nearly all periods of life? - -The Romans cultivated this plant with extreme care,[IX-50] and obtained -the most extraordinary results. At Ravenna, they raised asparagus each -stem of which weighed three pounds.[IX-51] - -Then, as in our days, they were allowed but a short time to boil; hence -the favourite expression of Augustus, who, to intimate his wish that any -affair might be concluded without delay, was accustomed to say: “Let -that be done quicker than you would cook asparagus.”[IX-52] - -The cooks of Rome had a method which appears to have been subsequently -too much neglected; they chose the finest heads of asparagus, and dried -them. When wanted for the table, they put them into hot water, and then -boiled them a few minutes.[IX-53] Thanks to this simple process the -plant swelled considerably, and passed as being very tender and fine -flavoured. - -The Apicii, Luculli, and other connoisseurs of renown, had this -vegetable brought from the environs of Nesis, a city of Campania.[IX-54] - -It is asserted that Asia is its native soil, and that it was originally -brought to us from that part of the world. Nevertheless, wild asparagus -grows naturally in certain sandy soils, as, for instance, in the islands -of the Rhône and the Loire.[IX-55] - -“When it is found impossible to eat all the asparagus you have cut, and -which has arrived at a convenient maturity, place them by the thick ends -in a vessel containing about two inches of water; or else, bury them -half-way up in fresh sand. By means of these precautions asparagus may -be preserved several days.”--PARMENTIER. - - -GOURD. - -This vegetable, which the wise _gourmet_ is too discreet to despise, and -to which the whimsical fancy of Roman gardeners gave the most grotesque -forms,[IX-56] appears to be the very image of those soft and easy -dispositions who yield to and obey every one, and whose unintelligent -mildness is only repaid with sarcasm or disdain. Observe this creeping -vegetable, left free to grow to its full size, which would sometimes -attain the length of nine feet,[IX-57] and which the will of man was -able to reduce to the slender and tortuous shape of a hideous -dragon.[IX-58] When hardly ripe, it was cut and served on the tables of -the most dainty, where it was eaten with vinegar and mustard, or -seasoned with fine herbs:[IX-59] and whilst the ungrateful guests -savoured the stomachic and nourishing flesh of the gourd,[IX-60] they -did not cease to amuse themselves at the expense of its round and almost -empty body[IX-61]--the proverbial image of a head not over well-provided -with brains.[IX-62] - -To the present day even, more than one popular joke continues to pursue -this plant, although its culinary qualities are appreciated as formerly. - -We are indebted to India for the seed of the gourd,[IX-63] which the -Greeks designated, according to the species, by the names of Indian and -common gourd. The latter kind was either boiled or roasted; the former -was generally boiled in water.[IX-64] Antioch furnished the finest -specimens to the markets of Athens.[IX-65] - -The ancients were acquainted with the manner of preserving this -vegetable in such a state of freshness as to enable them to eat it with -pleasure in the month of January:[IX-66] the method is as follows,--the -gourds were cut in pieces of a moderate size; these pieces, strung like -beads, where first dried in the open air, and then smoked; when winter -arrived, each piece was well washed before putting it into the stewpan, -with the various culinary herbs which the season produced; to this was -added endive, curled cabbage, and dried mushrooms.[IX-67] The rest of -the operation is easily understood. The Romans prepared this vegetable -in different ways: a few of the principal ones will suffice. - -1st. Boil the gourd in water, squeeze it out carefully, place it in a -saucepan, and mix some pepper, a little cummin seed, rue, gravy, -vinegar, and a small quantity of wine, reduced to one-half by boiling. -Let the whole stew, and then sprinkle it lightly with pepper, and -serve.[IX-68] - -2nd. Boil and carefully squeeze them to extract the water, then put the -gourds into a saucepan with vinegar and gravy; when it begins to simmer, -thicken with fine flour, sprinkle lightly with pepper, and serve.[IX-69] - -3rd. Throw some salt on the gourd after it has been boiled, and the -water pressed out of it; put it into a saucepan, with a mixture of -pepper, cummin seed, coriander, green mint, and the root of benzoin; add -some vinegar; then chop some dates and almonds; a little later, more -vinegar, honey, gravy, sun-made wine, and oil; sprinkle lightly with -pepper, and serve.[IX-70] - -4th. Put into a stewpan a fowl, with a gourd; add some apricots, -truffles, pepper, cummin, sylphium, mint, parsley, coriander, -pennyroyal, and calamint; moisten with wine, gravy, oil, vinegar, and -honey.[IX-71] - -These four recipes are sufficient to prove that this vegetable stood -very high in the estimation of the Romans. - - -TURNIPS. - -The epicureans of Athens preferred turnips brought from Thebes;[IX-72] -Roman gastronomists placed those of Amitermes in the first rank, and -those of Nursia in the second. The kitchen-gardeners of Rome furnished -them with a third variety, to which they had recourse when they could -not procure any other.[IX-73] They were eaten boiled, thus:--after the -water had been extracted from them, they were seasoned with cummin, rue, -and benzoin, pounded in a mortar, adding to it afterwards honey, -vinegar, gravy, boiled grapes, and a little oil. The whole was left to -simmer, and then served.[IX-74] - - -CARROTS. - -The Greeks and Romans planted or sowed them in the beginning of the -spring, or autumn.[IX-75] They distinguished two kinds, the wild and the -cultivated.[IX-76] - -This much esteemed root received the honour of being prepared in many -ways. Sometimes it was eaten as a salad, with salt, oil, and -vinegar.[IX-77] - -It was also stewed, and mixed afterwards with œnogarum.[IX-78] Again, -they boiled it in a stewpan, over a slow fire, with some cummin and a -little oil, and just before serving it was sprinkled with ground cummin -seeds.[IX-79] - - -BLIT - -(A SORT OF BEET). - -Blit is one of the family of _atriplices_, which grows in Europe, and in -the temperate regions of Asia; it owes its ancient reputation entirely -to the insipidity of its flavour, from which it derives its Greek name, -synonymous with stupidity and insignificance.[IX-80] Blit was eaten -boiled, when nothing better was to be had. In fact, it was a last -resource--and nothing more. - - -PURSLAINE. - -This vegetable, the aspect of which would lead us to suppose it -possessed savoury qualities (though experience proves the contrary), was -formerly mixed in different salads, and still enjoys some esteem when -associated with a leg of mutton.[IX-81] - -In default of esculent qualities (which it certainly does not possess), -the ancients recognised in purslaine many admirable virtues,[IX-82] -which are not acknowledged in the present day. The internal use of this -plant, also its external application, cured the bite of serpents, wounds -inflicted by poisoned arrows, and infallibly neutralized the effects of -poisonous drinks.[IX-83] But, alas! purslaine is not now what it was -formerly; for it is hardly permitted to appear by the side of one of our -fresh white lettuces. - - -SORREL. - -Sorrel is a polygenous plant, and grows throughout Europe amidst the -grass fields. The Romans cultivated it in order to give it more -vigour,[IX-84] and ate it sometimes stewed with mustard, and seasoned -with a little oil and vinegar.[IX-85] - - -BROCOLI. - -Drusus, son of Tiberius, was so passionately fond of the brocoli, which -Apicius induced him to eat, that he was more than once severely -reprimanded by his father on the subject.[IX-86] It is true that the -celebrated Roman epicurean displayed so much art, and gave such -delicious flavour to it, that this dish alone would have been enough to -establish his reputation. In fact, brocoli has always been appreciated -by connoisseurs; and Glaucias, who passed his life in meditating -seriously on the perfectibility of culinary ingredients, said: “That -nothing could be better than this vegetable, boiled and suitably -seasoned.”[IX-87] - -This was the method of preparing it at Rome: they used only the most -tender and delicate parts of the brocoli, which were boiled with that -extreme care the artist always devotes to this first operation; and, -afterwards, when the water had been well drained off, they added some -cummin seed, pepper, chopped onions, and coriander seed--all braised -together, not forgetting, before serving up, to add a little oil and -sun-made wine.[IX-88] - - -ARTICHOKE. - -A young and unfortunate beauty had the ill-luck to displease a -vindictive and irascible god, who instantly metamorphosed her into an -artichoke.[IX-89] This poor girl’s name was Cinara. Although she had -become a bitter plant she preserved this sweet name, which the moderns -have strangely modified. Our readers, who eat artichokes with so much -indifference, will, perhaps, sometimes lament this poor victim of a -blind resentment. - -This plant was well known to the ancients; the hilly regions of Greece, -Asia, and Egypt were covered with it;[IX-90] but the inhabitants made no -use of it as an aliment, and it remained uncultivated.[IX-91] - -It would be rather difficult to trace the precise period when it was -first introduced into Italy. All we know is, that it grew there more -than half a century before the Christian era, in the time of -Dioscorides, who mentioned it.[IX-92] It appears, nevertheless, that -hardly any one troubled himself about artichokes, or their esculent -qualities, up to that time; but the wealthy, about a century after, -began to appreciate them, and Pliny, in one of his jesting whims, -reproaches the rich with having deprived the lower classes and _asses_ -of a food which nature seemed to have destined for them.[IX-93] - -This vegetable was then very dear,[IX-94] for it did not succeed, and -was subsequently given up. It was so far forgotten that in the year 1473 -it appeared as a novelty at Venice;[IX-95] and towards the year 1465 it -was brought from Naples to Florence, whence it passed into France in the -sixteenth century.[IX-96] - -Galen[IX-97] looked upon the artichoke as a bad food.[IX-98] Columella -sung its praise in his verses; he recommended it to the disciples of -Bacchus, and forbid the use of it to those who were anxious to preserve -a sweet and pure voice.[IX-99] - -This plant, whatever may be in other respects its estimable qualities, -does not please every one equally well; its bitterness and unpleasant -odour keep it at a distance from numerous palates--perhaps because too -many allow themselves to be prejudiced by deceitful appearances. Here -are two very ingenious methods by means of which a trial might be made -to overcome, or lessen, the defects it undoubtedly has, and which we can -but deplore:-- - -Artichokes will become mild by taking care to steep the seed in a -mixture of honey and milk.[IX-100] They will then exhale the most -agreeable perfume, particularly when this seed has passed three days in -the juice of bay leaves, lilies, or roses.[IX-101] - -Having quoted the authority, we give the recipe for what it is worth. - -Until the result of this experiment is known, artichokes may be eaten -raw, with a seasoning of hard eggs chopped in very small pieces, garum, -and oil.[IX-102] - -If you prefer a sharper sauce, mix well some green mint with rue, Greek -fennel,[IX-103] and coriander; add, afterwards, some pepper, alisander, -honey, garum, and oil.[IX-104] They are also eaten boiled, with cummin, -pepper, gravy, and oil.[IX-105] - -“It is well known under what form artichokes, either raw or cooked, -appear on our tables. The best way to preserve them is to half cook -them, separate the leaves from the fur, and preserve the fleshy part, -called _the bottom_, and throw them, still warm, in cold water, to make -them firm. That operation is called _blanchir_. They are laid afterwards -on hurdles, and put four different times in the oven, as soon as the -bread is taken out. They become then very thin, hard, and transparent, -like horn, and return to their original form in hot water. They must be -kept free from damp.”--PARMENTIER. - - -POMPION. - -Like the gourd, the good and creeping pompion has served more than once -as a term of comparison, and that in a style most humiliating. Should -any one happen to be thick-headed, or not very intelligent,[IX-106] he -was immediately compared to a pompion (popularly, pumpkin--whence -bumpkin). The insult went still further: it was said of a pusillanimous -man, “That he had a pompion where his heart ought to have been.”[IX-107] - -The obesity of this vegetable, and its inelegant shape, have doubtless -given rise to these injurious remarks. - -It was, however, acknowledged that it possessed many estimable -qualities, which ought to have compensated for its outward defects. It -was thought to be very refreshing, and was employed with success in the -treatment of diseases of the eyes.[IX-108] - -We might undertake (if permitted) a long dissertation, in order to prove -that the Hebrews, weary of being in the Desert, murmured because they -were deprived of the pompion of Egypt,[IX-109] and not the melon, as -translators have rendered it; but we should be accused of egregious -presumption; the learned would frown, critics would not spare us, and -our pompions would, nevertheless, pass as melons. - -This plant occupies a prominent place in the precious catalogue of Roman -dainties which we offer for the meditation of judges. Here are some of -the ancient modes of preparing this vegetable: - -1st. Boil some pompions, put them in a stewpan with cummin and a little -oil; place them for a short time over a slow fire, and serve.[IX-110] - -2nd. When you have well boiled, reduce them to a pulp, then put them on -a dish with pepper, alisander, cummin, wild marjoram, onion, wine, -garum, and oil; thicken with flour, and serve.[IX-111] - -3rd. When the pompion has boiled in water, it is then seasoned with wild -fennel, sylphium,[IX-112] dried mint, vinegar, and garum.[IX-113] - - -CUCUMBER. - -When the Israelites were in the Desert they regretted much the cucumbers -of Egypt, which were sold to them at a very trifling price when under -the yoke of Pharaoh.[IX-114] We may thence infer that this vegetable was -very plentiful, and chiefly in great demand by the lower order of -people; for as the Jews were in a state of servitude, they were -necessarily assimilated with the most abject of the Egyptians. - -We see that this _cucurbitacea_ has been long known, and that, after the -lapse of many centuries, it is held in the same degree of estimation it -enjoyed among the Eastern nations. - -The Greeks thought much of the cucumber, particularly of that kind which -came from the environs of Antioch.[IX-115] They attributed to this plant -marvellous properties, which modern scepticism has completely thrown -aside. We think it good in salad, with vinegar, oil, pepper, and salt, -and that is all. - -It is, we imagine, the only good quality our farmers ascribe to it at -the present day. Formerly, in Greece, the same class of persons, being -clearer-sighted, or more credulous, were convinced that this vegetable -protected all kinds of seeds against the voracity of insects. To obtain -this result it was only necessary to steep the seed in the juice -obtained from the root of the cucumber, before it was sown.[IX-116] - -We freely offer this preservative to those who may wish to give it a -trial, and sincerely hope they may profit by this revival of the Greek -process. - -The Romans conceived that this cold and somewhat insipid vegetable (we -beg pardon of its admirers) required a seasoning to heighten its -flavour. No sooner had they transplanted it from Asia into Rome,[IX-117] -than they busied themselves in rendering it worthy of their tables by -various preparations, which may, perhaps, interest the curious. - -1st. Scrape the cucumbers, and eat them with œnogarum.[IX-118][W] - -Or, prepare the condiment with thyme, wild mint, pepper, and alisander; -to which add, as before, garum, oil, and honey.[IX-120] - -2nd. Scrape the cucumbers, and boil them with parsley, seed, gravy, and -oil; thicken, and sprinkle pepper over the dish before serving.[IX-121] - -3rd. Again, they may be seasoned with pepper, pennyroyal, honey, or -sun-made wine, gravy, vinegar, and a little sylphium.[IX-122] - -4th. You will obtain a most delicate dish by boiling the cucumbers with -brains, already cooked; adding afterwards some cummin, and a little -honey.[IX-123] - -The cucumber, although but little nutritious, does not agree with cold -stomachs. In the north an astonishing quantity are consumed. The Poles -ate them at every repast with boiled meat. - -“Cucumbers are preserved in a very simple manner. The essential point is -to obtain good wine-vinegar. After having well washed and wiped them, -put them into either white or red vinegar (the colour is better -preserved by using the white); add salt; cover simply the vessel -containing them with a board. The vinegar must always be an inch higher -than the cucumbers, and must be entirely renewed at the end of a -month.”--PARMENTIER. - - -LETTUCE. - -From time immemorial the lettuce has occupied a most distinguished place -in the kitchen garden. The Hebrews ate it, without preparation, with the -Paschal lamb.[IX-124] The opulent Greeks were very fond of the lettuces -of Smyrna,[IX-125] which appeared on their tables at the end of a -repast;[IX-126] the Romans, who at first imitated them, decided, under -Domitian, that this favourite dish should be served in the first course -with eggs,[IX-127] purposely to excite their indomitable appetites, -which three courses (and such courses, ye gods! when compared with ours -of the present day) would hardly satisfy. - -The bitter lettuce was sufficient for the frugal Hebrews,[IX-128] but -the delicate epicureans of Athens and Rome were much more particular; -they valued them only when a mild and sweet savour invited the most -rebellious palate, and awakened the slumbering desires of a fatigued -stomach. And what care, what attention, did they not bestow on the -growth and maturity of this cherished plant! - -Aristoxenus, a philosopher by profession, an epicurean by taste, had in -his garden a species of lettuce which was the envy of his surrounding -neighbours. The worthy man, rendered happy by their jealous admiration, -went every evening, without fail, to contemplate the small square of -ground which contained his treasure, and sprinkled it carefully with -water, doubtless from a limpid stream. Tush! Water, to moisten the -lettuces of Aristoxenus! No: the philosopher kept in reserve a sweet and -excellent wine to quench the thirst of his plants, and to communicate to -them that delicate perfume and exquisite taste, the mysterious cause of -which baffled the neighbouring gastronomists. - -The day after, the arch old man would say, with a roguish smile, that he -was going to gather some relishing green cakes, which the earth prepared -expressly for him,[IX-129] and the simple countrymen were wonder-struck -without understanding the cause. - -The lettuce--favourite plant of the beautiful Adonis[IX-130]--possesses -a narcotic virtue, of which ancient physicians have taken notice. Galen -mentions that, in his old age, he had not found a better remedy against -the wakefulness he was troubled with.[IX-131] The biographer of -Augustus informs us that this Emperor, being attacked with hypochondria, -recovered only by the use of lettuces, recommended by Musa, his first -physician;[IX-132] nothing, therefore, is wanting in praise of this -useful plant--literally nothing, since the king of cooks, Cœlius -Apicius, judged it worthy of an honourable place in the immortal book he -has bequeathed to the amateurs of the Archeologico-culinary science of -all ages and all countries. - -“Take,” says he, “the leaves of lettuces, let them be boiled with -onions, in water wherein you have put some nitre; take them out, squeeze -out the water, and cut them in small pieces; mix well some pepper, -alisander,[IX-133] parsley seed, dried mint, and onions; put this -mixture to the lettuce, and add to the whole some gravy, oil, and -wine.”[IX-134] - -Lettuces may also be eaten with a dressing of gravy and pickles.[IX-135] - -Our ancestors served salads with roasted meat, roasted poultry, &c. They -had a great many which are now no longer in vogue. They ate leeks, -cooked in the wood-ashes, and seasoned with salt and honey; borage, -mint, and parsley, with salt and oil; lettuce, fennel, mint, chervil, -parsley, and elder-flowers mixed together. They also classed among their -salads an agglomeration of feet, heads, cocks’ combs, and fowls’ livers, -cooked, and seasoned with parsley, mint, vinegar, pepper, and cinnamon. -Nettles, and the twigs of rosemary, formed delicious salads for our -forefathers; and to these they sometimes added pickled gherkins.[IX-136] - - -ENDIVE. - -Pliny assures us that the juice of this plant, mixed with vinegar and -oil of roses, is an excellent remedy for the head-ache;[IX-137] we leave -to the proper judges a pharmaceutical mixture which does not belong to -our province, and which we only quote _en passant_. - -Virgil thought endive bitter,[IX-138] but he did not speak ill of it. -Columella recommended this salad to fastidious and satiated -palates;[IX-139] this is praising it. The Egyptians appreciated its -merits,[IX-140] which the Greeks had too much sense and good taste to -disdain; and the Romans ate it prepared in the following manner:-- - -Choose some fine endive; wash it well; drain off all the water; add a -little gravy and oil; then chop some onions very small; strew them over -the endive, and add honey and vinegar.[IX-141] - -It is understood that the sweet savour of the honey corrects the -bitterness of the plant; but a judicious attention must preside over the -quantity of that substance, for too much or too little might easily -spoil this salad of Apicius. - - -ONIONS. - -Whoever wishes to preserve his health must eat every morning, before -breakfast, young onions, with honey.[IX-142] Such a treat is assuredly -not very tempting: besides, this rather strong vegetable leaves after it -a most unpleasant perfume, which long reminds us of its presence; -wherefore this recipe has not met with favour, and, indeed, it is much -to be doubted whether it will ever become fashionable. - -Alexander the Great found the onion in Egypt, where the Hebrews had -learned to like it.[IX-143] He brought it into Greece, where it was -given as food to the troops, whose martial ardour[IX-144] it was thought -to excite. - -Pliny assures us that Gaul produced a small kind, which the Romans -called Gallic onions, and which they thought more delicate than those of -Italy.[IX-145] At any rate, it was a dish given up to plebeians and the -poor. Horace opposed to it fish--the luxurious nourishment of rich and -dainty Romans.[IX-146] In spite of this reprobation on the part of the -elegant poet, Apicius does not fear to introduce the plant in his _Olus -Molle_, a kind of _Julienne_, not devoid of merit. - -Take onions, rather dry, and mix pepper, alisander, and winter-savory, -to season a variety of vegetables previously boiled in water and nitre, -the which, when very fine, thicken with cullis, oil, and wine.[IX-147] - - -LEEKS. - -This vegetable--a powerful divinity, dreaded among the -Egyptians,[IX-148] and a food bewailed by the Israelites in their -journey through the Desert[IX-149]--cured the Greeks of numerous -diseases, which in our days it is to be feared would resist its -medicinal properties.[IX-150] Everything changes in this sublunary -world, and the leek no doubt follows the common law. - -The authors of a compilation rather indigestible at times, but often -very curious, assert that this vegetable attains an extraordinary size, -by putting as many of the seeds as one can take up with three fingers -into a piece of linen, which is then to be tied-up, covered with manure, -and watered with care. All these seeds--so they say--will at last form -themselves into one single seed, which will produce a monstrous -leek.[IX-151] - -This process, which is revealed to us by the geoponics, would have had -an enthusiastic reception from those fervent pagans who vied in zeal -with each other, to see who could offer Latona, on the day of the -Theoxenias, the most magnificent leek.[IX-152] - -The mother of Apollo received this plant with pleasure, although -presented to her quite raw; but she would probably have preferred it -dressed in the following manner:-- - -Take leeks, the mildest it is possible to procure; boil them in water -and oil, with a handful of salt, and put them into a dish, with gravy, -oil, and wine.[IX-153] - -Or, cover the leeks with young cabbage leaves; cook them under the hot -embers, and season afterwards as above.[IX-154] - - -MELON. - -This _cucurbitacea_, the most delicate vegetable belonging to this -numerous family, has always been the delight of the inhabitants of the -East and of Europe. It came originally from the most temperate regions -of Asia; the chivalric Baber made it known to his Hindoo -subjects;[IX-155] and the Romans introduced it into the west, at the -time of their first expedition against the Persians. Melons had a -prodigious success at Rome, and soon became a necessity with which the -wealthy could not dispense. The Emperor Tiberius, that cruel and -covetous prince,[IX-156] liked them so much that they were served to him -every day throughout the year. - -The Greeks, whose ingenious and lively imagination mingled with -everything the sweet perfume of flowers, contrived to place the seeds of -melons in vessels full of rose leaves, with which they were afterwards -sown. They maintained that, when at maturity, this cool and refreshing -vegetable was impregnated with sweet emanations, and that its flavour -called to mind its sweet and delicious abode with the queen of -flowers.[IX-157] - -Sometimes also they macerated the seeds in milk and honey. Not only -melons, but all the _cucurbitaceæ_ were treated in this manner, when it -was wished to communicate to them a milder flavour.[IX-158] - -In pointing out these processes in use among the ancient -horticulturists, we do not at all pledge ourselves for their efficacy. -However, it must be acknowledged that they exhibit a singularly -praiseworthy emulation, which has perhaps prepared the way for the -wonders with which our modern gardeners have made us familiar. - -Independently of its exquisite flavour, the melon passed, among the -Greeks and Romans, as being very beneficial to the stomach and -head.[IX-159] It is possible that they may have gone a little too far; -but then man is so ready to give imaginary qualities to what he loves, -that we cannot wonder at their praises of this delicious plant, which we -generally eat in the most simple manner, without any other seasoning -than a little sugar, sometimes with salt and pepper. Not so with the -Romans; their practised palates required a more exquisite combination; -they, therefore, added to it a sharp savoury sauce--a compound of -pepper, pennyroyal, honey, or sun-made wine, garum, vinegar, and -sylphium.[IX-160] - -Melons were not known in central or northern Europe until the reign of -Charles VIII., King of France, who brought them from Italy.[IX-161] - - -RADISH. - -Amongst other singularities which abound in the Talmud, the curious can -but have remarked the following: - -Judea formerly produced kitchen garden plants so large, that a fox -bethought himself to hollow a radish, and make it his residence. After -he had removed, this new kind of lair was discovered; it was put into a -scale, and found to weigh nearly one hundred pounds.[IX-162] - -It is a pity that no one preserved the seed of so remarkable a -vegetable, which no doubt was only to be found in Judea. - -The Greeks had very fine radishes, but they were not of such a -surprising size. They procured them from the territory of -Mantinea.[IX-163] Mount Algidea also furnished the Romans with an -excellent kind,[IX-164] but which they esteemed less highly than those -of Nursia,[IX-165] in the country of the Sabines. These latter cost -about threepence a pound in the time of Pliny; they were sold for double -that sum when the crop was not abundant.[IX-166] - -Writers of antiquity notice three distinct kinds of radishes: the large, -short, and thick; the round; and the wild.[IX-167] They fancied that, at -the end of three years, the seed of this plant produced very good -cabbages,[IX-168] which must have been rather vexatious, at times, to -honest gardeners who might have preferred radishes. - -In times of popular tumult this root was often transformed into an -ignominious projectile, with which the mob pursued persons whose -political opinions rendered them obnoxious to _the majority_, as we -might say in the present day.[IX-169] As soon as calm was -re-established, the insulting vegetable was placed in the pot to boil, -and afterwards eaten with oil and a little vinegar.[IX-170] - -The Romans preserved radishes very well, by covering them with a paste -composed of honey, vinegar, and salt.[IX-171] - - -HORSE-RADISH. - -“By Apollo!” cried, mournfully, a philanthropic and gastronomic Greek, -“one must be completely mad to buy horse-radish, when fish can be found -in the market.”[IX-172] So thought the philosopher Amphis. And at Rome, -as in Greece, this reviled and despised root hardly found a place on the -table of the poor, when anything else could be had. - -There were several serious causes for this fatal proscription: this -plant was found to be bitter, stringy, and of difficult -digestion;[IX-173] it was looked upon as a very common food;[IX-174] the -lowest class alone dared to feed upon it; the opulent were therefore -compelled to exclude it from the number of their dishes. And again, -certain strange customs, authorised by the Roman law, contributed -greatly to make the horse-radish an object of horror and detestation; so -true it is, that the manner in which objects are associated with our -ideas determines almost invariably our love or hatred for them. - -Nevertheless, all the species of this vegetable (and there were five in -number, distinctly mentioned by Theophrastus[IX-175]) ought not to have -been condemned so severely. The Corinthian, the Leiothasian, the -Cleonian, the Amorean, and the Bœotian, were so many distinct and -separate species, each of which possessed its own peculiar property and -quality.[IX-176] The last-named, with its large and silky leaves, was -tender, and had a sweet, agreeable taste.[IX-177] The others, not so -good, perhaps, were wholesome and nourishing, and their natural -bitterness never failed to disappear, when the seeds were allowed to -soak for some time in sweet or raisin wine before they were -sown.[IX-178] - -Shall we now mention the properties the horse-radish possessed, and -which ought to have been sufficient to establish its reputation, if -prejudice were not both deaf and blind? - -Take, fasting, some pieces of this beneficent and despised root, and the -most inveterate poisons will be changed for you into inoffensive -drinks.[IX-179] - -Would you have the power to handle and play with those dangerous -reptiles whose active venom causes a speedy and sure death? Wash your -hands in the juice of horse-radish.[IX-180] - -Do you seek an efficacious remedy for the numerous evils which besiege -us unceasingly? Take horse-radish,--nothing but horse-radish.[IX-181] - -It is true that this incomparable root attacks the enamel of the teeth, -and, indeed, soon spoils them;[IX-182] but why should we be so -particular when so many marvellous properties are in question? - -As to its culinary preparation, Apicius recommends us to serve it mixed -with pepper and garum.[IX-183] - - -GARLIC. - -Garlic was known in the most remote ages. It was a god in Egypt.[IX-184] -The Greeks held it in horror. It was part of their military food--hence -came the proverb, “Eat neither garlic nor beans;” that is to say, -abstain from war and law.[IX-185] There was a belief that this plant -excited the courage of warriors; therefore, it was given to cocks to -incite them to fight. The Greek and Roman sailors made as great a use of -it as the soldiers,[IX-186] and an ample provision was always made when -they set out on any maritime expedition.[IX-187] It was a prevailing -opinion that the effects of foul air were neutralized by garlic; and it -was, no doubt, this idea which made reapers and peasants use it so -lavishly.[IX-188] - -However, the taste for this vegetable was not always confined to the -people, in the southern countries of Europe; it gained, at times, the -high regions of the court. It is reported that, in 1368, Alphonso, King -of Castile, who had an extreme repugnance to garlic, instituted an order -of knighthood; and one of the statutes was, that any knight who had -eaten of this plant, could not appear before the sovereign for at least -one month.[IX-189] - -The priests of Cybele interdicted the entry of the temple of this -goddess to persons who had made use of garlic. Stilphon, troubling -himself very little about this interdiction, fell asleep on the steps of -the altar. The mother of the gods appeared to him in his dream, and -reproached him with the little respect his breath disclosed for her. “If -you wish me to abstain from garlic,” replied Stilphon, “give me -something else to eat.”[IX-190] - -The ancients, great lovers of the marvellous, believed that this -despised vegetable possessed a sovereign virtue against the greater -number of diseases,[IX-191] and that it was easy to deprive it of its -penetrating odour by sowing and gathering it when the moon was below the -horizon.[IX-192] - -The Greek and Roman cooks used it but very seldom, and it was only -employed as a second or third-rate ingredient in some preparations of -Apicius which we shall hereafter mention. - -“Garlic is called the physic of the peasantry, especially in warm -countries, where it is eaten before going to work, in order to guarantee -them from the pernicious effects of foul air. It would be too long were -we to relate all that has been written in favour of this vegetable; let -it suffice to say that it is employed in numerous pharmaceutical -preparations, and among others in vinegar, celebrated by the name of -_aromatic_ vinegar.”--BOSC. - - -ESCHALOTS. - -Alexander the Great found the eschalot in Phœnicia, and introduced it -into Greece. Its Latin name, _Ascalonica_, indicates the place of its -origin, Ascalon, a city of Idumea.[IX-193] Its affinity with garlic set -the ancients against its culinary qualities, and this useful plant, too -much neglected, only obtained credit in modern times. - - -PARSLEY. - -Hercules, the conqueror of the Nemæan lion, crowned himself with -parsley; a rather modest adornment for so great a hero, when others, for -exploits much less worthy, were decked with laurels. A similar crown -became, subsequently, the prize of the Nemæan[IX-194] and Isthmian -Games.[IX-195] - -Anacreon, that amiable and frivolous poet, who consecrated all his -moments to pleasure, celebrates parsley as the emblem of joy and -festivity;[IX-196] and Horace, a philosophic sensualist of the same -stamp, commanded his banquetting hall to be ornamented with roses and -parsley.[IX-197] - -Perhaps it was thought that the strong, penetrating odour of parsley -possessed the property of exciting the brain to agreeable imaginations; -if so, it explains the fact of its being worn by guests, placed round -their heads. - -Fable has made it the food of Juno’s coursers.[IX-198] In battle, the -warriors of Homer fed their chargers with it;[IX-199] and Melancholy, -taking it for the symbol of mourning, admitted it at the dismal repasts -of obsequies.[IX-200] - -Let us seek to discover in this plant qualities less poetic and less -brilliant, but, assuredly, more real and positive. In the first place:-- - -Wash some parsley with the roots adhering; dry it well in the sun; boil -it in water, and leave it awhile on one side; then put into a saucepan -some garlic and leeks, which must boil together a long time, and very -slowly, until reduced to two-thirds--that done, pound some pepper, mix -it with gravy and a little honey, strain the water in which the parsley -was boiled, and pour it over the parsley and the whole of the other -ingredients. Put the stewpan once more on the fire, and serve.[IX-201] - -The following recipe is much less complicated and more expeditious:-- - -Boil the parsley in water, with nitre; press out all the water; cut it -very fine; then mix, with care, some pepper, alisander, marjoram and -onions; add some wine, gravy, and oil; stew the whole, with the parsley, -in an earthen pot or stewpan.[IX-202] - -If the illustrious pupil of Chiron, the warlike Achilles, had known the -culinary properties of parsley as well as he knew its medicinal virtues, -he no doubt would have been less prodigal with it for his -horses;[IX-203] and the conquerors of Troy would have comforted -themselves, during the tediousness of a long siege, by cooking this -aromatic plant, and enjoying a new dish. - -Parsley, according to some writers, was of Egyptian origin; but it is -not known who brought it into Sardinia, where it was found by the -Carthaginians, who afterwards made it known to the inhabitants of -Marseilles. - - -CHERVIL. - -This plant, which Columella has described,[IX-204] furnished a relishing -dish, prepared with gravy, oil, and wine; or served with fried -fish.[IX-205] At the present day it is highly commendable in salad. - - -WATER-CRESSES. - -The water-cress, the sight alone of which made the learned Scaliger -shudder with terror, is supposed to be a native of Crete. It was, -doubtless, the cresses of Alen (Suabia), which are cultivated in our -gardens, and not those commonly found in brooks and springs. - -The Persians were in the habit of eating them with bread:[IX-206] they -made, in this manner, so delicious a meal, that the splendour of a -Syracusan table would not have tempted them.[IX-207] This is one of -those examples of sobriety which may be admired, but are seldom -followed. - -Plutarch did not share the opinion of the Persians, but scornfully -ranked cresses amongst the lowest aliments of the people.[IX-208] -Nevertheless, the Romans, as well as the Greeks, granted to this -cruciform plant a host of beneficent qualities, and among others, a -singularly refreshing property. Refreshing! to say the truth, it -refreshes much in the same way that mustard and pepper do.[IX-209] -Boiled in goat’s milk, it cured thoracic affections;[IX-210] introduced -into the ears, it relieved the toothache:[IX-211] and finally, persons -who made it their habitual food found their wits sharpened and their -intelligence more active and ingenious.[IX-212] - -However, it does not appear that cresses ever enjoyed, in Rome or -Athens, a culinary vogue equal to their officinal reputation; it was -said that its acrid taste twisted the nose,[IX-213] and this coarse jest -naturally did it harm to a certain degree with the rich and delicate. Be -that as it may, those who dared, ate it dressed in the following -manner:-- - -With garum, or oil and vinegar;[IX-214] or with pepper, cummin-seed, and -lentiscus (leaves of the mastic-tree).[IX-215] - -The water-cress _par excellence_ grows in springs, rivulets, and -ditches, in Europe. Its piquant taste is rather agreeable; it is eaten -as a salad or seasoning, with poultry and other roasted meat. This plant -increases the appetite, fortifies the stomach, and possesses -anti-scorbutic qualities. - -A great consumption is made of it in certain countries. It is cultivated -in running waters, either in gardens, or sown in the shade, where it is -watered abundantly. The less it sees the sun, the softer it is.--BOSC. - - - - -X. - -PLANTS USED IN SEASONING. - - -We will point out, as briefly as possible, those plants mostly used in -the kitchens of the ancients to heighten the flavour of their dishes, or -to give them a particular taste, according as the dish or fancy might -require it. In them especially lies the secret of those _irritamenta -gulæ_, or excitements of the palate, which Apicius brought so much into -fashion. - - -POPPY. - -The seed of this plant was offered, fried, at the beginning of the -second course, and eaten with honey.[X-1] Sometimes it was sprinkled on -the crust of a kind of household bread, covered with white of eggs.[X-2] -Some of it was also put into the panada, or pap, intended for -children[X-3]--perhaps to make them sleep the sooner. - - -SESAME. - -This seed was used in nearly the same manner as the poppy, and it -occupied a distinguished rank among the numerous dainties served at -dessert.[X-4] Certain round and light cakes were covered with this -seed.[X-5] The Romans brought sesame from Egypt.[X-6] - - -SOW-THISTLE. - -This plant furnished a kind of milk, which was sometimes drunk: -sometimes various kinds of meat were seasoned with it.[X-7] It was -afterwards given up to rabbits, and there is every probability that they -will retain undisputed possession of it. - - -ORACH. - -Few vegetables have been more exposed to injurious accusations. -Pythagoras reproaches it with causing a livid paleness, dropsy, and the -scrofula, in those persons who eat it.[X-8] Nevertheless, a greedy -curiosity introduced it into the catalogue of culinary preparations, and -the guests of Apicius tasted more than once the fatal orach without -knowing its pernicious properties. History does not say that they -suffered any pernicious effects from it. - -This plant is also eaten like spinach, and mixed with sorrel to soften -its acidity.--BOSC. - - -ROCKET. - -Persons about to undergo the punishment of the whip were recommended to -swallow a cup of wine, in which rocket had been steeped. It was asserted -that this draught rendered pain supportable.[X-9] And again, that this -plant, taken with honey, removed the freckles which sometimes appear on -the face.[X-10] - -Whatever may be the degree of credence accorded to these two recipes, -this vegetable enjoyed some reputation among the ancients, who mixed the -wild and the garden rocket together, so as to temper the heat of the one -by the coldness of the other.[X-11] - - -FENNEL. - -It was employed but seldom in the preparation of dishes or pastry; but -it was believed that the juice of its stalk had the property of -restoring or strengthening the sight.[X-12] - - -DILL. - -This plant, which, according to the ancients, weakened the eyes,[X-13] -was much renowned for its exquisite odour,[X-14] and its stomachic -qualities.[X-15] A much-admired perfume[X-16] was made from it; it -produced an agreeable sort of wine or liqueur;[X-17] and a small number -of choice dishes, for the enjoyment of connoisseurs, owed to it the -reputation they had acquired.[X-18] - - -ANISE-SEED. - -The production of an umbelliferous plant, which grows wild in Egypt, in -Syria, and other eastern countries. Pliny recommends it to be taken in -the morning, with honey and myrrh in wine:[X-19] and Pythagoras -attributes to it eminent Hygeian properties, whether eaten raw or -cooked.[X-20] - - -HYSSOP. - -The Greeks, the Romans--and before them, the nations of the -east[X-21]--believed that hyssop renews and purifies the blood. This -plant, mixed with an equal quantity of salt, formed a remedy much -extolled by Columella.[X-22] It was crushed with oil to make a liniment, -used as a remedy for cutaneous eruptions.[X-23] An excellent liqueur -was obtained from it, known under the name of hyssop wine;[X-24] and -lastly, this plant was used in a number of dishes, which it rendered -more wholesome and refreshing. - - -WILD MARJORAM. - -Nearly the same qualities were attributed to this herb as to -hyssop;[X-25] and it was employed still more frequently in the -composition of the most delicate condiments. Dioscorides[X-26] and -Cato[X-27] make copious remarks on a much-esteemed liqueur, which they -called wild marjoram wine. - - -SAVORY. - -An odoriferous herb, which entered into the seasoning of nearly every -dish.[X-28] - - -THYME. - -Besides the various culinary purposes for which the ancients used this -plant, they, like ourselves, extracted from thyme aromatic -liqueurs,[X-29] the preparation of which will be given in another part -of this work. - - -WILD THYME. - -We find it rarely spoken of by magiric writers. Pliny believes it to be -most efficacious against the bite of serpents.[X-30] - - -SWEET MARJORAM.[X-31] - -Was much employed in the Isle of Cyprus; very little, if at all, in -Rome, where they knew little more of sweet marjoram than the oil -extracted from it.[X-32] - - -PENNYROYAL. - -The ancients entwined their wine caps with pennyroyal,[X-33] and made -crowns of it, which were placed on their heads during their repasts, by -the aid of which they hoped to escape the troublesome consequences of -too copious libations.[X-34] On leaving the table, a small quantity of -this plant was taken, to facilitate digestion.[X-35] - -Pennyroyal occupied, also, an important place in high gastronomic -combinations. - - -RUE. - -The territory of Myra, a city of Lycia, produced excellent rue.[X-36] -Mithridates looked upon this vegetable as a powerful -counter-poison;[X-37] and the inhabitants of Heraclea, suspicious--and -with reason--of the villany of their tyrant, Clearchus, never stirred -from their dwellings without having previously eaten plentifully of -rue.[X-38] This plant cured also the ear-ache;[X-39] and to all these -advantages, it joined that of being welcomed with honour on all festive -occasions.[X-40] - - -MINT. - -There was formerly--no matter where or when--a beautiful young girl, who -was changed into this plant through the jealous vengeance of -Proserpine.[X-41] Thus transformed, she excited the appetite of the -guests, and awakened their slumbering gaiety.[X-42] Mint prevented milk -from curdling, even when rennet was put into it.[X-43] - - -SPANISH CAMOMILE. - -The Romans sometimes mixed with their drink the burning root of the -Spanish camomile;[X-44] and we are astonished at meeting with the name -of this formidable plant among the ingredients of some of their dishes. - - -CUMMIN. - -The condiments prepared with cummin had a very great reputation; and -culinary authors frequently mention this vegetable, which the Greeks and -Romans invariably used.[X-45] - - -ALISANDER. - -The same might be said of alisander, which, in the time of Pliny, passed -as an universal remedy,[X-46] and which Apicius honours by naming in -many of his dishes. - - -CAPERS. - -Young buds of the caper tree, a shrub--native of Asia, where the species -are in great varieties. It was but little thought of at the tables of -the higher classes, and therefore was left to the people.[X-47] - -The buds of the caper are gathered, and thrown into barrels filled with -vinegar, to which a little salt is added; then, by means of several -large sieves made of a copper plate, rather hollow, and pierced with -holes of different sizes, the different qualities are separated, and -classed under different numbers. The vinegar is renewed, and the capers -are replaced in the barrel, ready for exportation. - - -ASAFŒTIDA. - -This plant, which we have excluded from our kitchens, and whose nauseous -smell is far from exciting the appetite, reigned almost as the chief -ingredient in the seasoning of the ancients. Perhaps they cultivated a -kind which in no way resembled that of modern times. If it were the -same, how are we to explain the extreme partiality which Apicius shows -for it? and which he says must be dissolved in luke-warm water, and -afterwards served with vinegar and garum.[X-48] - -It is certain that the resin drawn by incision from the root of this -plant is still much esteemed by the inhabitants of Persia and of India; -they chew it constantly, finding the odour and taste exquisite. - -“The neck of the root is cleared of the earth it is covered with, and -replaced by a handful of herbs. At the end of forty days the summit of -the root is out transversely; then a small bundle of herbs is laid over, -so as not to touch it. A whitish liquor exudes from the cut, and every -other day it is gathered; the cut is renewed until the root is quite -exhausted. The result of this crop is laid on leaves, and dried in the -sun.”--BOSC. - - -SUMACH. - -The Romans made use of the seed to flavour several kinds of -dishes.[X-49] - - -GINGER. - -This root was known at Rome under the Emperors, and many persons have -confounded ginger with pepper, although they in no way resemble each -other. Pliny refutes this error, and represents it as a native of -Arabia.[X-50] It was used with other condiments.[X-51] - -“The Indians grate this root in their broth or _ragoût_; they make a -paste which they believe is good against the scurvy. The inhabitants of -Madagascar eat it green, in salad, cut in small pieces, and mixed with -other herbs, which they season with salt, oil, and vinegar. In other -places ginger is taken infused as a drink; it fortifies the chest, and -awakens the appetite. It is preserved in sugar after it has been -stripped of its bark, and soaked in vinegar. Delicious preserves are -made of it with much perfume, and which keep a very long -time.”--DUTOUR. - - -WORMWOOD. - -The Egyptians had a great respect for the wormwood of Taposiris,--no -doubt on account of the medicinal properties which physicians attributed -to it. - -Heliogabalus often regaled the populace with wormwood wine,[X-52] and -the Romans gave it to the victorious charioteers. Pliny thinks this -plant so salutary that nothing more precious could have been presented -to them.[X-53] This explanation appears to have had but little -plausibility, and it has been more rationally supposed that this liquor -prevented or counteracted any giddiness they might feel. “You can cure -yourself of dizziness,” says Strabo, “with the bitter leaf of -wormwood.”[X-54] - -The Roman wormwood wine was composed in the following manner: - -They bruised one ounce of this vegetable, and mixed it with three -scruples of gum, as much spikenard, six of balm, and three scruples of -saffron; to which was added eighteen _setiers_, or 180 gallons English, -of old wine. This mixture was left to stand some time, but was not -heated or subjected to any other process.[X-55] - -In pharmacy, wine is made of wormwood; also a syrup, a preserve, an -extract, oil by infusion, an essential oil, and wormwood salt. It is -supposed that several brewers on the Continent substitute the leaves and -flowers of this plant for hops, in the manufacture of beer. It is, -perhaps, a calumny, and we only repeat it in a whisper. - -“The leaves of wormwood are used in salad to make it more digestible and -heighten the flavour. They are preserved in vinegar, and to season -dishes. Lastly, they are considered by some persons as a remedy, and the -frequent use of them to be indispensable for the preservation of their -existence.”--BOSC. - - * * * * * - -In concluding this chapter, it will be necessary to anticipate a -question which naturally presents itself: did the Romans know the art of -forcing fruits, and of procuring, at one season, the various vegetables -or plants which belong to another period of the year? - -Some verses from Martial will leave no doubt on the subject:-- - -“Whoever has seen the orchards of the King of Corcyrus (Alcinous), dear -Entellus, must have preferred thy rural habitation. Thou knowest how to -preserve from the rigours of winter the purple grapes of thy vine bower, -and prevent the cold frost from devouring the gifts of Bacchus. Thy -grapes live enclosed under a transparent crystal, which covers without -concealing them. - -“What can avaricious nature refuse to the industry of man? Sterile -winter is constrained to give up the fruits of autumn.”[X-56] - -This curious passage gives us to understand that the Romans had -hot-houses and, no doubt, glass bells in their orchards and gardens, to -bring sooner to maturity some of those productions of the earth which, -by their delicate flavour and perfume, raised the insatiable desires of -a people, decidedly the greatest epicureans ever known in the history of -gastronomy to the present day. - - - - -XI. - -FRUITS. - - -When the Creator placed the first man in the Garden of Eden, he -commanded him to nourish himself with the fruit it contained;[XI-1] and, -from that epoch, the most ancient which the sacred work records, this -kind of aliment is incessantly mentioned in the history of all nations, -and at every period of their history. - -The great Hebrew legislator seems to have considered fruit trees worthy -of his especial care, for he forbad the Jews to cut them down, even on -their enemies’ lands;[XI-2] and, in order to teach his people how to -preserve them in all their vigour, he declares the fruits of the first -three years impure, and consecrates to the Lord those of the -fourth.[XI-3] He even goes further; he exempts from military service any -one who has planted a vineyard, and all fruit trees conferred the same -privilege until the first vintage.[XI-4] - -Heathen nations also understood the importance of this branch of -agriculture, and invented protective divinities--such as Pomona,[XI-5] -Vertumnus,[XI-6] Priapus[XI-7]--whose sole care consisted in protecting -orchards from the inclemency of the seasons, and dispelling insects and -robbers, who would damage and plunder the crops. - -Each kind had, moreover, a benevolent patron, who could not honestly -refuse to be useful to it: thus the olive tree grew under the auspices -of Minerva;[XI-8] the Muses cherished the palm tree;[XI-9] the pine and -its cone were consecrated to the great Cybele;[XI-10] Bacchus -complacently ripened the perfumed pulp of the fig[XI-11] and the rosy -grape,[XI-12] which placed him on a level with the gods. - -Among the Greeks, fruits appeared on table at the second course;[XI-13] -and were eaten either cooked, raw, or in the form of preserves. - -The Romans sometimes breakfasted on a small quantity of dried -fruits;[XI-14] but the third course of their _cœna_, or principal -repast, offered an incredible profusion of the productions of their own -orchards, and of those of three parts of the world.[XI-15] - -Rich patricians, after they had exhausted all the immense resources of -an incredible luxury--in their garments, habitations, and -banquets--contrived to plant fruit trees on the summit of high towers, -and on the house tops;[XI-16] thus suspending forests over their -heads,[XI-17] as well as vast reservoirs, to keep alive the most -exquisite fish.[XI-18] - -At Rome they had an expensive, but, as they thought, effective process -of preparing pears, apples, plums, figs, cherries, &c., &c., and which -was as follows:-- - -The fruit was chosen with great care, and put, with the stalks attached, -into honey, leaving to each one sufficient space to prevent their -touching each other.[XI-19] - -Our housewives of the 19th century may, perhaps, be curious to try this -Roman experiment, if the quantity of honey which it requires does not -frighten them. - - - - -XII. - -STONE FRUIT. - - -OLIVE TREE. - -Throughout antiquity we find the olive tree acknowledged as something -venerable and holy, and taking precedence of all other trees, even the -most useful on account of their nourishing fruits, or the refreshing -drink they furnished. The wise Minerva gave it birth;[XII-1] and its -foliage, which adorned the brows of the goddess,[XII-2] served, -thenceforth, to crown victory,[XII-3] or to give rise to the sweet hopes -of peace.[XII-4] A green bough of olive rendered the suppliant -inviolable.[XII-5] The deadly arrows of Hercules were made of its -wood.[XII-6] From it princes borrowed their sceptre[XII-7] and the -shepherd his crook.[XII-8] - -If, abandoning mythological fictions which surround the olive with a -charming but false poetry, we interrogate history for more certain -information concerning this revered tree, we shall find that Diodorus, -of Sicily, informs us Minerva discovered and made known to the Athenians -its useful qualities.[XII-9] And a writer, in whose possession the most -ancient records in the world were found--Moses--who has recounted the -birth of vegetation,[XII-10] tells us also of a patriarch pouring -purified oil on a stone altar,[XII-11] before the olive tree was known -in Athens--nay, before Athens existed. - -Profane historians honour Aristeus, son of Apollo, and King of Arcadia, -with the invention of oil mills, and the manner of procuring the -precious fluid,[XII-12] the abundance of which was such, in the East, -that it was used in lamps,[XII-13] in anointing,[XII-14] in seasoning of -dishes,[XII-15] and in numerous other instances too long to -enumerate.[XII-16] - -Thus the most important culture among the Jews was that of the olive -tree. There were large plantations of it in all the provinces: Galilea, -Samaria, and Judea, were full of them.[XII-17] It must not, however, be -thought the Hebrews used olives only to make oil; they knew how to -preserve them in brine, to be eaten at table, and for sale to strangers. -Pliny particularly extols those of Decapolis, a province of the Holy -Land: “They are very small,” he says, “not larger than capers; but are -much esteemed.”[XII-18] - -Among the Greeks, the oil of Samos was considered to be the purest and -finest:[XII-19] next to it they gave preference to that of Caria or of -Thurium.[XII-20] - -As regards olives, the _Colymbades_, or floating kinds were more -esteemed than any other, on account of their size and taste;[XII-21] -they had an exquisite flavour imparted to them by being placed with -different herbs in pots of oil:[XII-22] the _Halmade_ olives were -preserved in brine.[XII-23] - -The cultivation of the olive tree was carried to a great extent in -Greece; a host of poets sang in honour of this tree,[XII-24] which -produced so sweet a fruit; and Theophrastus speaks of it very frequently -in his celebrated treatise on plants.[XII-25] - -The Romans were not acquainted with it until later; and even in the year -249 B.C., they possessed so few olive trees that a pound of oil sold for -twelve _As_, or three shillings; less than two centuries after (74 -B.C.), ten pounds of it only cost one _As_; but Italy had so far -increased its plantations at the end of a few years (52 B.C.) that it -was able to furnish olive trees to the neighbouring countries.[XII-26] -Its olives and oil were thought excellent; however, those of Grenada and -Andalusia were preferred to them, even in the time of Pliny,[XII-27] on -account of their sweetness and delicate flavour. That illustrious -naturalist has transmitted to us particulars of the highest interest on -the cultivation of the olive tree, and the various preparations which -its fruit requires, or rather, to which it is necessarily subjected for -the luxury of the table.[XII-28] Those who are curious on this subject -may also consult Cato (the first among the Romans who has written on -this tree),[XII-29] Varro,[XII-30] and Columella,[XII-31] concerning the -art of raising the plants, of gathering the olives, of extracting the -oil, and of preserving the olives themselves. This latter operation was -performed as follows:-- - -They took twenty-five pounds of olives, six pounds of quick-lime, broken -very small and dissolved in water, to which twelve pounds of oak ashes -and water in proportion were added. The olives were left to soak for -eight or ten hours in this lye; then taken out, washed with care, and -immersed for eight days in very clear soft water, which was changed -several times. They then took hot water in which some stems of fennel -had been infused; this plant was taken out, and the same water saturated -with salt until an egg would float. When it was quite cold, the olives -were put into this pickle.[XII-32] - -As regards the large olives, or _colymbades_, they were sometimes -crushed after the first operation, that the brine might penetrate more -easily; and odoriferous herbs were added to give them a better flavour. -This was the way they prepared those from the marshes of Ancona--the -only ones admitted at the tables of _gourmets_.[XII-33] - -At Rome, olives made their appearance in the first course, at the -beginning of the repast; but sometimes, after their introduction, the -gluttony of the guests caused them to be served again with the dessert: -so that they opened and closed the banquet.[XII-34] - -The distributions of oil, to which Latin authors often allude, were -somewhat rare for a long period. The people looked upon this fluid more -as an object of luxury than a necessary of life, and it was only on -extraordinary occasions that they were gratified with it. Thus, when -Scipio Africanus began his curule edileship, each citizen received a -measure of oil.[XII-35] After his example, Agrippa made similar -distributions, in the reign of Augustus. They became more frequent under -the Emperors; and Severus ordered that an immense quantity should be -brought into Rome.[XII-36] - -Venafra, a town of Campania, supplied excellent oil.[XII-37] Pliny says -that it surpassed that of all the rest of Italy.[XII-38] However in -those days, as at present, much was consumed of a very bad quality: for -instance, that which was served by a clumsy Amphytrion to Julius Cæsar, -and with which this prince seemed perfectly satisfied--a proof that the -celebrated warrior was either a man of exquisite politeness or an -epicure of very scanty ability.[XII-39] - -Independently of the culinary preparations in which oil was abundantly -used, the ancients also employed much of it for anointing themselves; -and, when at the bath, a slave always carried some in a vase,[XII-40] -with which they were rubbed. It was believed that the vital heat was -thus concentrated, the strength increased, and health preserved. - -Augustus inquiring one day of Pollio what ought to be done to preserve -health in extreme old age: “Very little,” was his answer; “drink wine, -and rub yourself with oil.”[XII-41] - -We sall conclude this article by transcribing the recipe of an -odoriferous oil for which the Liburnians were celebrated, and which -Apicius considered worthy of his attention. - -Pound some alder and cyperus (sedges) with green laurel leaves till they -are reduced to a very fine powder--put this powder into Spanish oil, add -a condiment of salt,[XII-42] and stir this mixture with great care for -three days or more, then let it remain for some time.[XII-43] - -Olive oil was little known in France under the two first races of her -kings. In the reign of Charlemagne it was drawn from the east and -Africa, and was so rare that the Council of Aix-la-chapelle (817) -allowed the monks to make use of the oil from bacon. In 1491 the Pope -allowed Queen Anne (of Bretagne), then afterwards the whole province, -and successively the other French provinces, the use of butter in -seasoning on fast days. - - -PALM TREE. - -The poet Pontanus has related, in beautiful Latin verses, the history of -two palm trees cultivated in the kingdom of Naples. For a long time -there had been a fine one growing in the environs of Otranto, loaded -every year with flowers, and yet producing no fruit, in spite of the -vigour of the tree and the heat of the climate. But one summer every one -was much surprised at seeing this same tree produce a quantity of -excellent and very ripe fruit. Astonishment changed into admiration when -it was discovered that another palm tree, cultivated at Brindes (fifteen -leagues distant), had that same year blossomed for the first time. From -that period the palm tree of Otranto continued to yield fruit every -year, notwithstanding the distance between it and the one at -Brindes.[XII-44] - -The palm tree, which mythologic ages consecrated to the Muses,[XII-45] -was very common with the Hebrews,[XII-46] to whom it supplied an -exhilarating beverage called _sechar_, which is often mentioned with -wine of the grape.[XII-47] - -Moreover, everything was useful in this tree. - -The wood was employed for constructing buildings and for fuel; the -leaves were used to make ropes, mats, and baskets; and the fruit served -as food for man and cattle.[XII-48] From the dates a great quantity of -honey was extracted, but very little inferior to ordinary honey;[XII-49] -and those which were not consumed were sent abroad with so much the more -ease that they keep well.[XII-50] - -According to Pliny, this fruit was in reputation in Greece and Rome; and -he names several excellent species which came from Judea, and -principally from Jericho and the valleys of Archelais, Livias, and -Phasaelis.[XII-51] - -Two Greek writers[XII-52] inform us that the favourite of Herod, Nicolas -of Damascus, a poet, philosopher, and historian, much liked by Augustus, -sent to the Roman Emperor every year a peculiar kind of date from -Palestine; and that the monarch, who became very partial to them, gave -them the name of his friend. Bread and cakes were also made with them. - -We shall often have occasion to remark that dates were frequently -introduced in the composition of the most exquisite dishes of the -Romans. - -Dates not quite ripe, if exposed to the sun, become in the first place -soft, then pulpy, and lastly acquire a consistency similar to that of -French plums; they can then be preserved, and sent to foreign markets. - -Riper dates are squeezed to draw out a sweet juice, very pleasant, and -which is put, together with the other part, in large vessels, and kept -in that state, or buried in the earth. These are the ones commonly used -by the rich as food; the others are given up to the poorer class. - -Dates are eaten either with or without preparation, or mixed with -different kinds of viands. Their syrup is used as a sauce to various -dishes. - -They are also completely dried for exportation; when reduced into flour, -the caravans in the Desert employ them as food. By crushing them in soft -water wine is made, which produces a strong spirit, very agreeable. - -The best dates are yellowish, semi-transparent, odoriferous, and sweet. - - -CHERRY TREE. - -When on a very hot summer day some inviting cherries deliciously quench -our burning thirst, we very little think of offering to Mithridates a -souvenir of affection and gratitude. Such is man: he enjoys his wealth, -and cares very little for the benefactor who has procured it for him. -This ancient King of Pontus, of toxologic memory, and better known by -physicians than gardeners, did not, however, pass the whole of his life -in composing poisons and their antidotes; for his royal hands planted, -and sometimes grafted, and it is to this useful pastime that we are -indebted[XII-53] for the sweet fruit, the name of which recalls to mind -the city or country which was its birth-place. - -Ancient authors have told us, it is true, that Europe is indebted for -its cherries to Lucullus,[XII-54] and that he made use of the cherry -tree to ornament his triumphal car; honour is therefore due to the Roman -general, but on condition that Mithridates shall lose nothing of his -glory, or be eclipsed by the renown of this great conqueror. - -The researches of several naturalists lead us to believe that cherry -trees already existed at that period in Gaul. This tree delights in cold -climates; and the wildest forests of France contain almost the whole of -its varieties. Perhaps at Rome they knew no other than the wild cherry -tree, which on that account was very little sought after, and Lucullus -probably brought it to notice by bringing some grafts or fruits from -Cerasus. In this manner the passage of Pliny[XII-55] and that of -Virgil[XII-56] can very well be explained, which present the cherry tree -as a new guest. - -Moreover, the Milesian, Xenophanes, and the physician, Diphilus of -Siphne, have spoken of cherries long before Lucullus was in existence. -Diphilus praises them in the strongest terms; he says they are -stomachic, and have a delicious flavour.[XII-57] This certainly cannot -apply to the sour wild fruit which is to be met with in the woods, and -with which the most inexperienced palate is never twice caught. - -At all events the authority of Theophrastus would be sufficient to -remove all doubts, if any still remained. He informs us that, in his -time, the good cherries of Mithridates passed from Lower Asia into -Greece,[XII-58] where they were gladly received as in all other nations, -on account of their form, taste, and qualities. This happy gastrologic -event was accomplished 300 years before the Christian era, whereas the -introduction of cherry trees by Lucullus took place 228 years later. - -The capital of the world knew not, at first, how to appreciate this -present as it deserved: the cherry tree was propagated so slowly in -Italy, that more than a century after its introduction it was far from -being generally cultivated.[XII-59] - -The Romans distinguished three principal species of cherries: the -_Apronian_, of a bright red, with a firm and delicate pulp; the -_Lutatian_, very black and sweet; the _Cæcilian_, round and stubby, and -much esteemed.[XII-60] - -This fruit embellished the third course in Rome, and the second at -Athens. - -“The fruit of the cherry tree is eaten raw, cooked, preserved with -sugar, and in brandy; it is also preserved dry, or made into ratafia. By -fermentation, the juice of cherries, with the kernel, by adding sugar, -makes a very agreeable liquor, which is called cherry wine; a brandy is -produced with fermented cherries drawn by the alembic, very powerful; -that named _kirschen wasser_, in the province of German-Lorraine, is a -spirituous liquor, obtained by the distillation of various species of -wild cherries.”--BOSC. - - -APRICOT TREE. - -The apricot tree was called by the Romans _Armeniaca_, the tree of -Armenia, where it originated. It must be looked upon as a useful -monument of the valour of the masters of the world, if it be true that, -after their conquest, they brought it from that province into -Rome.[XII-61] - -The Latins also named the apricot _præcocia_ (precocious), because it -ripens at the beginning of summer (in June) before other fruits.[XII-62] - -At the time when Pliny wrote (A.D. 72) the apricot tree had only been -known at Rome for 30 years; and apricots, still very rare, cost one -_denarius_, or sevenpence halfpenny each:[XII-63] they were only to be -found in the first-rate shops of the fruit market or emporium of the -third region, near the _Metasudante_, which was only open every ninth -day; or near the Naval Camp, outside the Trigemina Gate. Some years -later the agriculturists of the Roman suburbs brought into the city some -excellent ones at a very low price; but the fashion and the taste for -them had gone by. - -“The green apricot is preserved before the stone becomes hard; when ripe -it is eaten raw, cooked, or stewed in marmalade; preserves are made of -it, as well as a dried paste, which keeps a long time; they are also -preserved in brandy. The stone as it is, or broken, is used in ratafia -of Noyau. Lastly, the kernel produces oil.”--DUTOUR. - - -PEACH TREE. - -This fruit tree, originally from Persia, was first transplanted into -Greece,[XII-64] where it existed a long time before it passed into -Italy. It was still quite a novelty in Rome towards the middle of the -1st century of the Christian era, and the rich alone could eat peaches, -for they cost no less than £11 13_s._ 4_d._ the dozen, or 18_s._ 9_d._ -each.[XII-65] This is rather dear fruit, however good it may be. But the -bill of fare of certain banquets will show us, by-and-by, whether the -Roman gastronomics knew how to spend their gold profusely, when they -wished to satisfy a caprice or enjoy some dainty curiosity. - -It was believed in Rome that the peach contained a deadly poison when -gathered in Persia;[XII-66] but that, once transplanted to another soil, -it lost its injurious properties. This singular opinion, still held by -many persons in the present day, has been refuted by Pliny, who treats -it as a ridiculous idea;[XII-67] at any rate, Galen[XII-68] and -Dioscorides[XII-69] assert that this fruit is indigestible, unwholesome, -and that it often causes fevers. - -The high price of peaches, and the short duration of their freshness, -caused amateurs to seek the means of preserving them for the longest -possible time. The following is the recipe given by Apicius:-- - -“Choose the finest of this fruit, and place them in water, saturated -with salt. The next day take them out, dry them with the greatest care, -and then put them into a vessel with savory, vinegar, and -salt.”[XII-70] - - -PLUM TREE. - -Plum trees were known in Africa from time immemorial; and Theophrastus -speaks of the great number of these trees which were to be found at -Thebes, Memphis, and especially at Damascus.[XII-71] Athenæus, also, -praises the excellent plums of this last-named city;[XII-72] and we know -that time has not lessened their ancient reputation. - -Asia and Egypt sent a great quantity to Europe; and, in order that they -might keep better during this long voyage, a part of them were dried, -and the rest were preserved--that is to say, the best--in honey and -sweet wine.[XII-73] These were the only kind known in Rome in the time -of Cato (150 years B.C.), but the Romans, then novices in the art of -good living, would have but ill-appreciated the delicate and perfumed -pulp of Damascus plums, at the moment when, hardly plucked from the -tree, their fresh and velvet-like bloom delights the eye and tempts the -palate of epicures. Two centuries later the science of good living made -incredible progress. A magiric atmosphere enveloped the capital of the -universe with its delicious fragrance, and the joyous free livers of -Italy cultivated in their gardens plums of the most beautiful purple and -gold,[XII-74] far superior to the much-extolled fruit from Damascus and -Memphis. The fields everywhere offered such luxuriance of plum trees -that Pliny, the opposition man, or _juste milieu_ of that time, -complained of their number,[XII-75] and grieved at what he fancied a -useless and expensive profusion of them. - -The ancient Counts of Anjou transplanted the plums of Damascus into -their province; and the good King René of Sicily, Duke of Anjou and -Count of Provence, introduced them into southern Europe.[XII-76] - -The plums of _Monsieur_ are thus named because Monsieur, the brother of -Louis XIV., was very fond of them.[XII-77] - -The plums of _Reine Claude_ owe their name to the first consort of -Francis I., daughter of Louis XII.[XII-78] - -The plums of _Mirabelle_ were brought from Provence into Lorraine by -King René.[XII-79] - - - - -XIII. - -PIP FRUIT. - - -QUINCE TREE. - -This tree appears to have been a native of Cydon, a city of Crete; from -hence it passed into Greece,[XIII-1] and soon became the delight of its -voluptuous inhabitants. The environs of Corinth, above all, were noted -for the sweetness and beauty of their quinces,[XIII-2] which the -enlightened luxury of Attica preferred to all others. - -Rome did not fail to enrich itself with a fruit[XIII-3] to which the -ingenuity of culinary art was to give a new flavour. Young plants were -first imported from abroad, and put in boxes;[XIII-4] but the Romans -knew not how to rear them, and were obliged for a long time to content -themselves with excellent quinces preserved in honey, and sent from -Iberia and Syria to the great capital.[XIII-5] - -At last they learned how to cultivate the quince tree,[XIII-6] and -subsequently introduced it into Gaul, where it succeeded admirably. -They, too, could then enjoy, with a certain pride, preserves nothing -inferior to those of Spain,[XIII-7] and which the confectioners in the -“market of dainties,”[XIII-8] kept in reserve with quince wine[XIII-9] -for the tables of the patricians; and also the stomachic exhilarating -liqueur extracted from the fruit of sweet Cydoneum,[XIII-10] which even -a _petite maîtresse_ would not have disdained at a light morning repast. - -At any rate, the faculty this time agreed with culinary chemistry in -recommending to epicures those delicious preparations. It was asserted, -besides, that the quince possessed the most beneficial -qualities,[XIII-11] first, as an aliment, and next, as a -counter-poison:[XIII-12] _gourmandise_ made the mind docile, and none -doubted its marvellous virtues. - -This fruit, so much extolled, was preserved by placing it with its -branches and leaves in a vessel, afterwards filled with honey or sweet -wine, which was reduced to half the quantity by ebullition.[XIII-13] - - -PEAR TREE. - -Many countries have disputed the honour of having given birth to the -pear tree. According to some it was a native of Mount Ida, so renowned -for its refreshing fountains; others said Alexandria; and in the opinion -of some writers it came from different parts of Greece. Let us add to -this enumeration Palestine, where this tree grew at a very remote -period.[XIII-14] - -It results from these different allegations that the ancients were -acquainted with the pear tree; that they cultivated and were fond of -pears, which is not at all surprising, as they are an excellent fruit. -Theophrastus was very fond of them; he speaks of them very -often,[XIII-15] and always with praise. The same thing may be affirmed -of Pliny,[XIII-16] and more particularly of Galen, whose medical -authority was formerly of so much weight. The learned physician of -Pergamo is pleased to recognise in the pear strengthening qualities -which benefit the stomach, and an astringent virtue which the apple does -not possess in the same degree.[XIII-17] - -Like us, the Greeks and Romans distinguished several kinds of this -fruit, whose names indicated their taste and forms. It is not certain -whether they possessed the _Bon Chrétien_, which honours our tables in -winter, either raw or cooked. This name reminds us of its origin, which -we will relate. - -Louis XI., King of France, had sent for Saint François de Paule from the -lower part of Calabria, in the hopes of recovering his health through -his intercession. The saint brought with him the seeds of this pear, and -as he was called at court _Le Bon Chrétien_, this fruit received the -name of him to whom France owed its introduction.[XIII-18] - - -APPLE TREE. - -A very ancient tradition--for it is six thousand years old--represents -the apple as being, from the beginning of the world, the inauspicious -fruit to which may be traced all the miseries of mankind. We crave -permission to defend it from this accusation, merely by these few words, -“That it is nowhere written.” - -The holy books rarely speak of the apple tree. If we are not mistaken, -it is only mentioned in five passages[XIII-19] of the sacred writings, -and at periods very distant from the first offence of man. Therefore, -nothing indicates aversion or contempt on the part of the inspired -writers for this tree, which on one occasion serves even as a graceful -term of comparison;[XIII-20] from which it might be concluded that the -inhabitants of the east thought as much of it as other nations. - -There is one (and perhaps only one) example of a singular and excessive -repugnance to apples. It is said that Uladislas, King of Poland, no -sooner perceived them than he became so confused and terrified that he -immediately fled. It certainly required very little to disturb this poor -prince! - -Greece produced very beautiful apple trees, and their fruit was so -excellent, that it was the favourite dessert of Philip of Macedon, and -of his son, Alexander the Great, who caused them to be served at all -their meals.[XIII-21] Probably they were obtained purposely for them -from the island of Eubœa, which enjoyed an extraordinary reputation -for apples.[XIII-22] - -The Athenian legislator--the wise Solon--almost succeeded in throwing -discredit on this aliment, so much liked by his fellow-citizens, by a -sumptuary law which he thought it necessary to establish. - -The inhabitants of Attica were fond of good living; and when one of them -took a wife he spared no expense to give splendour to the nuptial -banquet--a very excusable pride on such an occasion. Solon was in the -habit of interfering rather too much in the affairs of others. Every one -has his failing, and this was _his_: he imagined that his fellow -citizens fared too sumptuously on their wedding-day; and, in order to -curtail an expense contrary to his ideas of economy, he ordered that -the bridegroom should be content with a single apple, while his guests -were regaling themselves at his expense. Who would believe it? This law -was religiously observed by the Greeks, and the Persians thought it so -original that they, in their turn, adopted it.[XIII-23] - -The Latins gave a favourable reception to the apple tree, and cultivated -it with care. Eminent citizens of Rome did not disdain to give their -names and patronage to different kinds procured by themselves, or which -they had improved in their orchards. The Manlian apples were so called -after Manlius; the Claudian after Claudius, their patron; the Appian -owed their name to Appius. Some others preserved that of their native -country: such were the Sidonians, the Greeks, and the Epirotes. - -After the conquest of Gaul, the Romans introduced all these -fruits;[XIII-24] and as the climate was more favourable to apple trees -than that of Italy, they soon multiplied to a surprising extent. France -ought to be grateful to those proud warriors for a present that enriched -that province of the empire, and which perhaps still contributes to its -prosperity. - - -LEMON TREE. - -Among the richest productions of Media, Virgil mentions a tree, to whose -fruit he attributes the greatest virtues against all poisons. The -description he gives of it seems to belong to the lemon tree.[XIII-25] -However this may be, its origin, and even its identity, have given rise -to the most animated disputations. - -Many have asserted that Juba, King of Mauritania (50 years B.C.), spoke -of the lemon tree, and that he looked upon it as being very ancient. -They add, that the Lybians gave to its fruit the name of “Hesperide -apples,” that Hercules stole, and which, on account of their colour, -were called “golden apples” by the Greeks, who were indebted to that -hero for their introduction.[XIII-26] - -Others maintain that no one has spoken of them before -Theophrastus,[XIII-27] who called them “Median apples,” after the place -of their origin; and that consequently those persons were wrong who -confounded them with the apples taken from the garden of the -Hesperides.[XIII-28] - -These difficulties will probably disappear, if we remember that the -ancients have given to the lemon tree various names[XIII-29] which -belong to other trees. The truth is, that the Athenians received it from -the Persians, who were neighbours of the Medes, and from Attica it -spread all over Greece.[XIII-30] - -Lemons were only known to the Romans at a very late period, and at first -were used only to keep the moths from their garments. The acidity of -this fruit was unpleasant to them, and Apicius makes no use of it: those -who wish to satisfy their curiosity on the subject may read the remarks -of Lister, the celebrated physician of Queen Anne, and editor of the -works of this famous _gourmet_.[XIII-31] - -In the time of Pliny, the lemon was hardly known otherwise than as an -excellent counter-poison.[XIII-32] - -Fifty years after that, Palladius reared the plants which he had -received from Media,[XIII-33] and at last this tree was slowly -naturalized in the south of Europe. - -A considerable number of anecdotes have been told of the anti-venomous -properties of the lemon. Athenæus speaks of two men who did not feel -pain from the bite of dangerous serpents, because they had previously -eaten of this fruit.[XIII-34] Either this story is false, or men and -things have strangely altered. - -Apicius preserves lemons by putting each of them into a separate vessel, -which is hermetically sealed with plaster, and afterwards suspended from -the ceiling.[XIII-35] - -In another place we shall speak of the tables and beds made of the lemon -tree, so fashionable amongst the Romans, and for which they spent -prodigious sums. - -One thing remains to be noticed; and that is, that preserved lemon peel -was considered as one of the best digestives, and that doctors recommend -it to weak and delicate persons.[XIII-36] - - -ORANGE TREE. - -If confidence is to be placed in some authors, the native land of the -orange tree would appear to be the gardens of the Hesperides, so -remarkable in mythologic ages, and it was found also in Western Africa, -Mauritania, and the Fortunate Islands; to which they add those mountains -of Atlas so little known in a botanical point of view, notwithstanding -the daring excursions of several learned men. - -According to other observers, it originally came from the southern -countries of China,[XIII-37] from the islands of the Indian Archipelago, -or even from that portion of the globe called Oceania. - -One incontestable fact is, that writers of antiquity were completely -ignorant of the existence of this superb tree. Had they known it, its -majestic height, the dark green of its foliage, the suavity of its -flowers, its fruit, so fine, bright, and so flattering to the taste, -could not have failed to inspire them with brilliant pages. -Theophrastus, and the Latin geoponics, never would have neglected to -speak of the luxury and fecundity it displays, even in the season of -hoary frost. Besides, the name of _Portughan_, which is given to the -orange by the Arabs--a name foreign to their language, but which is -again heard among the Italians, Spaniards, and even in the southern -provinces of France--is it not an indication that the introduction of -this tree has some connection with the Portuguese voyages to India, -particularly those of Juan de Castro in the year 1520? - -It is the Portuguese who have planted the orange tree in the Canaries, -at Madeira, where it was supposed to be indigenous on account of the -vigorous vegetation it there displays: it is the Portuguese who have -introduced this tree into all countries washed by the Mediterranean: and -it is still the Portuguese who have furnished the parent suckers, whence -the Spaniards have been enabled to form their immense groves in -Andalusia and Algarvia.[XIII-38] - -From the foregoing recital we may conclude that the grand poliphagic -triumvirate of antiquity--Archestratus, Vitellius, and Apicius--never -tasted this fruit, which Heaven reserved for the appreciation of modern -times. Blessed shades! if, attracted sometimes by the exquisite vapours -of our stoves, you should wander again round those succulent dishes -which a more experienced chemistry enables us to elaborate: if fruitless -gastronomic reminiscences should lead you into the delightful retreat of -some one of your disciples, who by his enlightened skill is there -preparing the treasures of the dessert: oh! turn away your eyes from -those enticing fruits which display their golden rays, and rise in -pyramids upon a porcelain pedestal. Here are oranges, the nectar and -ambrosia of the Olympian ages, which you doubtless regret, and we have -again discovered. These wonders of sweetness existed perhaps in China, -but you knew it not, for China did not become a Roman province. But -console yourselves, giants of cookery! we have not yet attained the high -pinnacle of your art; your wild boar _à la Troyenne_, your peacocks’ -brains, and your phenicopters’ tongues, secure for you a triumph which -posterity will dispute in vain! - -The orange known under the name of “Portugal orange” comes from China. -Not more than two centuries ago the Portuguese brought thence the first -scion, which has multiplied so prodigiously that we now see entire -forests of orange trees in Portugal.[XIII-39] - -It appears to have been the custom formerly, in England, to make -new-year’s presents of oranges stuck full with cloves. We read in one of -Ben Jonson’s pieces, the “Christmas Masque,” “He has an orange and -rosemary, but not a clove to stick in it.”[XIII-40] - -At the present day we can dispense with this embellishment. - -The first orange tree cultivated in the centre of France was to be seen -a few years ago at Fontainebleau. It was called _Le Connétable_ (the -Constable), because it had belonged to the Connétable de Bourbon, and -had been confiscated, together with all property belonging to that -prince, after his revolt against his sovereign.[XIII-41] - - -FIG TREE. - -Antiquity, sacred and profane, has not left us, on any other tree, facts -so clear and certain as upon the fig tree; it is the only tree of Eden -of which the sacred books have preserved to us any mention.[XIII-42] In -the East there were immense plantations of it; Egypt had some -also;[XIII-43] and the land of Canaan produced figs, which enabled Moses -to judge of its fertility.[XIII-44] - -The Scriptures, in order to give us an idea of the happiness and -tranquillity the Jews enjoyed under the reign of Solomon, tell us that, -“in Judea and in Israel all dwelt safely, every man under his vine and -under his fig tree.”[XIII-45] - -And the fruit of this tree was no doubt very dear to the Hebrews, since -Rubshakeh, the general of the Assyrian army, thought to seduce them from -their obedience to Hezekiah, King of Judea, by saying to them: “Come out -to me, and then eat ye every man of his own vine, and every one of his -fig tree.”[XIII-46] - -Thus the trade carried on with figs in Jerusalem had become so -considerable and active, that Esdras was obliged to interdict it on the -Sabbath day. It appears that figs were arranged in small masses, to -which they give the form of loaves or cakes, either round or square, -which were sold nearly in the same way as at the present day.[XIII-47] - -From the East the fig tree passed into Greece, then into Italy, Gaul, -Spain, and throughout Europe. - -The Athenians pretended that this tree was a native of their soil, and -this people never wanted mythologic facts to support their assertions; -they imagined, and would have others believe, that the grateful Ceres -rewarded the Athenian, Phytalus, for his hospitality by giving him a fig -tree, which served for all the plantations of Attica.[XIII-48] - -Whatever may be the way it came to them, they received it with -transports of joy; it was planted with great pomp in the centre of the -public square at Athens: from that time this spot was sacred to -them.[XIII-49] - -Ere long the fame of the figs of Attica spread far and wide: they were -the best in Greece; and the magistrates strictly prohibited their -exportation.[XIII-50] This law was afterwards modified, that is, the -exportation of figs was allowed on payment of a very heavy duty. - -They then appointed inspectors, whose duty it was to discover -contraventions, and report them: thence arose the name of -Sycophant,[XIII-51] taken by those informers--a vile and dispised set of -men, whose denunciations were often false, and with whom the infamous -authors of a base calumny were eventually assimilated.[XIII-52] - -In Greece every one feasted on figs: it was a sort of regular -gastronomic _furore_, which knew no bounds, and the wise Plato himself -ceased to be a philosopher when presented with a basket of that fruit. -As an aliment it was considered so wholesome and strengthening, that on -the first introduction of them they constituted the food of the athletæ, -whose patron, Hercules, had also fed on them in his youth. - -The superiority of the Greek figs was so generally acknowledged that the -kings of Persia even had a predilection for them: dried ones were served -on the tables of these ostentatious princes.[XIII-53] - -The Romans believed, according to an antique tradition, that their first -princes, Romulus and Remus, were found under a fig tree on the shore of -the Tiber; they therefore rendered signal honours to this tree when it -was brought into Italy: they planted it in the Forum; and it was under -its shade that a sacrifice was offered every year to the shepherdess who -had suckled their founder.[XIII-54] - -It may, nevertheless, be affirmed, that no one before Cato had noticed -the fig tree,[XIII-55] which probably appeared in Rome at the same -period as the peach, apricot, and other trees of Asia. Sixty years -afterwards Varro speaks of it as a novelty from beyond sea, and points -out to us that its various species have retained the names of the -countries whence they came.[XIII-56] - -Those varieties were so numerous, that Pliny counts no less than -twenty-nine of them,[XIII-57] and the designation of the greater part -recalled to mind the illustrious families who had taken them under their -patronage. - -The people of the north, especially the moderns, cannot well explain the -extraordinary infatuation of the ancient southern nations for the fruit -of the fig tree. Perhaps we ought to look for the reason in the -nourishing, fresh, and sweet qualities of its pulp, and in the numerous -plantations of those trees, which sometimes furnished an agreeable food -to entire armies, when other provisions failed.[XIII-58] That of Philip -of Macedon owed its preservation to the figs brought to it by the -Magnesians.[XIII-59] A long time before, David received with joy, from -the hands of Abigail, two hundred baskets of dried figs, for himself and -his exhausted men.[XIII-60] - -More than once the far-famed reputation of some beautiful plantations of -fig trees brought long and disastrous wars on an entire country, as -steel attracts lightning. Xerxes left Persia, and rushed on Attica, to -take possession of those delicious figs, whose renown only had crossed -his territory:[XIII-61] and it was partly to eat the figs of Rome that -the Gauls waged war against Italy:[XIII-62] thank Heaven we have now -more respect for our neighbours’ fig trees. - -The best things in the world have had their detractors, and the fig is -not an exception. Philotimus and Diphilus looked upon it as bad -food;[XIII-63] Galen was unwell after partaking of figs, and he -recommends us to mix almonds with them;[XIII-64] Hippocrates himself -thought them indigestible, and advised to drink plentifully after eating -them.[XIII-65] - -All these great men may have been right, but the Greeks, their -contemporaries, acted as if they were wrong: happily we are not called -upon to decide between them. - -Figs were commonly served on aristocratic tables with salt, pepper, -vinegar, and some aromatics; they were eaten fresh, or dried in the -oven, or on hurdles in the sun. - - -RASPBERRY TREE. - -The ancients hardly mention the raspberry tree, which they placed on a -level with the bramble. The Latins called it “_Bramble of Ida_,” because -it was common on that mountain.[XIII-66] There can be no doubt, however, -that the Romans knew how to appreciate the raspberry tree, so much -esteemed in our days. - - -CURRANT TREE. - -The moderns have attempted to ennoble our two kinds of currants by -decorating them with Latin names, which recall their antiquity.[XIII-67] -Vain effort! To all appearance the Greeks and people of Italy were not -acquainted with the currant tree,[XIII-68] although they well deserved -to possess this delicious fruit. - - -STRAWBERRY PLANT. - -Among the Greeks the name of the strawberry indicated its tenuity, this -fruit forming hardly a mouthful. With the Latins the name reminded one -of the delicious perfume of this plant. Both nations were equally fond -of it, and applied the same care to its cultivation. Virgil appears to -place it in the same rank with flowers,[XIII-69] and Ovid gives it a -tender epithet,[XIII-70] which delicate palates would not disavow. -Neither does this luxurious poet forget the wild strawberry,[XIII-71] which -disappears beneath its modest foliage, but whose presence the scented -air reveals. Transported to the tables of the Luculli, by the side of -its more brilliant and more beautiful sister, a flattering murmur often -bore testimony to its merit, and nature triumphed in the midst of -ingenious guests, soliciting of art what they repudiated in nature. - - -MULBERRY TREE. - -The ancient mulberry tree was considered the wisest and most prudent of -trees, because it took care, they said, not to let the smallest of its -buds come to light before the cold had entirely disappeared, not to -return. Then, however, it hastened to repair lost time, and a single -night was sufficient to see it display its beautiful flowers, which the -next morning brightly opened at the rising of Aurora.[XIII-72] - -The voluptuous Romans, reposing late on their soft couches the day after -the fatigues of a banquet worthy of Vitellius, did not trouble -themselves much about this interesting phenomenon, which occurred, if -Pliny does not mistake, in the gardens of their villas. But they knew -that mulberries agree with the stomach, that they afford hardly any -nourishment, and easily digest:[XIII-73] therefore, no sooner had they -opened their heavy eyelids than an Egyptian boy--attentive living -bell--at a sign disappeared, and quickly returned, bearing a small -crystal vase, filled with mulberry juice and wine reduced by boiling. -This beneficent fruit preserved in this mixture all its sweet -flavour,[XIII-74] and enabled the rich patrician to await until evening -the hour for new excesses. - -It is quite evident that this luscious fruit was a native of Canaan, for -the high road by which the tribes of Israel went up to the feasts at -Jerusalem lay through the valley of _Baka_, or Mulberry Tree;[XIII-75] -and the whole tract of country from Ekron to Gaza abounded in these -trees. - - - - -XIV. - -SHELL FRUIT. - - -ALMOND TREE. - -This tree, whose fruit was called at one time “Greek Nut,” and, at -another, “Thasian Nut,”[XIV-1] is a native of Paphlagonia, according to -Hermippus.[XIV-2] The nations of the east thought much of almonds, and -Jacob found them worthy of appearing among the presents he designed for -Joseph.[XIV-3] The almond tree of Naxos supplied the markets of -Athens.[XIV-4] The Romans, in their turn, sought them, and believed, -like the physician spoken of by Plutarch, that it was only necessary to -eat five or six almonds to acquire the ability of drinking -astonishingly.[XIV-5] - -Besides, this fruit had not always so mean a destination: the disciples -of Apicius made of it one of the most delicate of dishes. Here it is, as -taught to them by their master:-- - -Take almonds that have been pounded in a mortar, and mix them with -honey, pepper, garum, milk, eggs, and a little oil; submit the whole to -the action of a slow fire.[XIV-6] - -The ancients were acquainted with the oil of almonds,[XIV-7] of which -they made nearly the same use as we do ourselves; but they possessed, in -addition, an infallible means of augmenting the fertility of the almond -tree. It was very simple:--A hole was made in the tree, a stone was -introduced into it,[XIV-8] and, thanks to the virtue of this new manure, -the branches soon bent under the weight of almonds. - -The good almonds come from Barbary and the south of France. When young, -they are preserved like green apricots. They are eaten at table, fresh -or dry; in comfits, pastry, &c.: they are also used to make orgeat and -refreshing emulsions. The oil extracted from almonds, even bitter ones, -is very sweet; it is best extracted cold, by pressure. The pulp is -employed, under the name of almond paste, for several purposes, one of -which is to render the skin soft and flexible.[XIV-9] - - -WALNUT TREE. - -Asia, the cradle of most fruit trees, gave birth also to the walnut -tree. It is believed to be a native of Persia,[XIV-10] and its pleasing -foliage already adorned, in Biblical times, the orchards of the east. -One of the most ancient of the sacred books informs us that it was known -to the Jews,[XIV-11] and it may be inferred from a passage in the Song -of Solomon that they possessed numerous plantations of this -tree.[XIV-12] - -Among the Persians, walnuts were not lavished on the first comer, as -with us; the sovereign reserved them for his dessert, and the people -were obliged to abstain from them. But perhaps it may be said that, -however fond this prince may have been of walnuts, he could not eat all -that were produced in his states. The objection is embarrassing, we own, -and chroniclers are silent on this point. But let us suppose that this -generous potentate distributed to his favourites the walnuts from which -his satiated appetite was compelled to abstain; and, indeed, we find -that a king of Persia sent some to the Greeks, who called them “Royal -Persian nuts,”[XIV-13] in gratitude and remembrance of the august gift. - -They did still better; the king of Olympus had a great liking for this -fruit, so they hastened to consecrate it to him,[XIV-14] and the “nuts -of Jupiter” were cultivated with honour in the whole of Greece.[XIV-15] - -Italy received the walnut tree from Attica, and, by degrees, the -conquerors of the world introduced it to the different countries of -Europe. - -The Romans, imitators of the piety of the Greeks, placed this tree also -under the protection of the most powerful of their gods. One of their -most whimsical customs, perhaps, owed its origin to this consecration, -which will serve to explain it:-- - -After the wedding feast the bridegroom strewed in the nuptial chamber, -at night, several baskets of walnuts, which children hastened to pick -up.[XIV-16] This was, they said, a kind of offering to Jupiter, and thus -he was entreated to grant his supreme patronage to the husband, and to -adorn the wife with the virtues of Juno.[XIV-17] The god could not have -failed to smile at this part of the request of blind mortals, and it is -asserted that, at times, he condescended not to grant it. - -Others have given a different interpretation. According to them, the -walnut, being covered with a double envelope when fresh, became a -presage of abundance and prosperity.[XIV-18] - -It would be too tedious to relate all the singular opinions to which -this ceremony gave rise. The most reasonable appears to be that adopted -by certain commentators:--Walnuts, say they, served as playthings for -children, and, by throwing them on the ground the day of his wedding, -the bridegroom made it understood that he and his companion renounced -the frivolities of youth, henceforth to devote themselves to the serious -exigencies of a family.[XIV-19] - -This fruit was considered astringent,[XIV-20] stomachic, and proper to -facilitate digestion.[XIV-21] It was made into preserve, and eaten in -small quantity, mixed with figs. In this manner paralysis of the tongue -was avoided--an effect to which it was believed those who partook of -them to excess were exposed.[XIV-22] Green walnuts were much esteemed; -they were served at dessert,[XIV-23] notwithstanding the opinion of -Heraclides, of Tarentum, who looked upon them as a stimulant to the -appetite, and advised a trial of them at the beginning of a -repast.[XIV-24] - -When Pompey had made himself master of the palace of Mithridates, he had -search made everywhere for the recipe of the famous antidote against -poison used by that king. At length it was found; it was very simple: -however, we offer it to the curious:-- - -Pound, with care, two walnuts, two dried figs, twenty leaves of rue, and -a grain of salt.[XIV-25] Swallow this mixture--precipitate it by the -assistance of a little wine, and you have nothing to fear from the most -active poison for the space of twenty-four hours. - - -NUT TREE. - -The Greeks gave hazel nuts the name of “Pontic Nuts,” and Theophrastus -calls them “Nuts of Heraclea,” because the territory of that capital of -the kingdom of Pontus produced the best.[XIV-26] - -The Latins, at first, retained the same designation for this fruit, but -afterwards, the environs of Præneste and Avellinum supplying them with a -great quantity of excellent nuts, they gave them the name of those two -cities.[XIV-27] They employed also a diminitive[XIV-28] to indicate -those which came from the first of these localities. The French -_Aveline_ (filbert), and _Noisette_ (hazel nuts), are evidently borrowed -from the Roman vocabulary. - -The inhabitants of Præneste raised the nut tree to a sort of religious -worship. This tree had preserved them from famine during the time -Hannibal besieged their city,[XIV-29] and since that memorable epoch it -had enriched them, for the ancients preferred hazel nuts to all other -shell fruit, as possessing most wholesome and nourishing -qualities.[XIV-30] - -It was the custom in France, some centuries ago, at the time of the -summer solstice (Midsummer eve), to take all the kitchen utensils and -make the most frightful clatter by knocking them one against another. -The simpletons of those times imagined that there were no better means -of preventing the rain, which, in their opinion, was detrimental to -filberts and hazel nuts.[XIV-31] Hospinian, who relates this ridiculous -custom, does not tell us what results they obtained by all their racket. - - -PISTACHIO TREE. - -This tree, esteemed by the Romans,[XIV-32] is a native of India.[XIV-33] -Lucius Vitellius brought some plants of it from Syria to Rome, under the -reign of Tiberius; a little time subsequently, a knight, named Flaccus -Pompeius, introduced it also into Spain.[XIV-34] - -Galen doubted whether pistachio nuts were good for the stomach.[XIV-35] -Avicenna proved the contrary;[XIV-36] and several centuries before the -Arabian physician, Roman epicures had courageously demonstrated that -this fruit never does harm in whatever form it may be presented, whether -raw or roasted, alone or accompanied with garum and salt. - - -CHESNUT TREE. - -According to some writers the chesnut tree owes its name to the city of -Castana, in Thessaly, where they maintained it originated. On the -contrary, it comes from Sardis, in Lydia, if we are to believe the -physician, Diphilus, who calls chesnuts, acorns of Sardis, and says they -are nourishing, but indigestible.[XIV-37] - -Amaryllis was fond of this fruit;[XIV-38] but Amaryllis was only a -shepherdess, and her beauty did not prevent her from having rather -rustic tastes. The Roman ladies abandoned the chesnut to that low class -of citizens whose palates, incapable of improvement, remain always -stationary in the midst of the incessant progress of cookery; sad -example of invincible frugality, which the most exciting _fumets_ fail -to arouse. - -Nevertheless, there was a soft and tender species of chesnut, _Castaneæ -molles_,[XIV-39] which were allowed on some of the tables of the higher -class of citizens, and recommended themselves by their delicate pulp to -the attention of the guests;[XIV-40] perhaps oil of chesnuts was -obtained from this particular kind.[XIV-41] - -To render the chesnuts more agreeable and wholesome they must be pealed -of their skins, which is very tough; put into boiling water, it -penetrates and softens the bitter pellicle (the tan) covering them, and -facilitates its removal from the floury substance. When the chesnuts can -be easily stripped of this pellicle by the pressure of the fingers, take -the jar from the fire; shake them well on all sides. The tan will soon -detach itself from their surface, and be altogether removed; then take -them out, and after they have been shaken in a sieve made purposely, -they are washed in cold water, to take away, with what remains of the -tan, the bitter water they may have preserved; they are then cooked -without water, in a well-covered vessel, and upon a moderate fire. - -“To eat chesnuts green all the year, boil them in water for fifteen or -twenty minutes; put them afterwards in a common oven, one hour after the -bread has been taken out. By this double operation the chesnuts acquire -a degree of cooking and desiccation, by which they can be preserved a -very long time, provided they are kept in a dry place. They can be used -afterwards by putting them to warm in a _bain-marie_.”--DUTOUR. - - -POMEGRANATE. - -Ceres, disconsolate on account of the loss of her daughter, to whom -Pluto destined the sceptre of Hell, implored the ruler of Olympus to -restore Proserpine. Jupiter promised that the favour should be granted, -provided that she had not partaken of anything in the infernal regions. -Now, she had eaten some grains of a pomegranate; very few indeed; some -serious authors have said three; others, quite as respectable, say nine. -The fact is, however, Proserpine had broken her fast; therefore she -might think herself fortunate in being allowed to pass six months on -earth and six months in the abode of darkness.[XIV-42] - -This little mythologic story informs us that the pomegranate tree was -known to antiquity, and that the garden of the Elysian fields contained -most excellent fruit for the use of its melancholy inhabitants. - -The pomegranate, whose acidulated flavour is so pleasing to the -inhabitants of hot climates, was first cultivated in the east, then in -Africa, but especially in the environs of Carthage, from whence the -Romans brought it into Italy, where it was commonly called the -Carthaginian apple;[XIV-43] it was also named _Granatum_, on account of -the number of its seeds.[XIV-44] - -Pliny distinguishes five different species of promegranate;[XIV-45] -Columella teaches the way to rear this tree;[XIV-46] and Apicius treats -of the preservation of its fruit, to do which it is only necessary to -plunge it in boiling water, take it out immediately, and suspend it from -the ceiling.[XIV-47] - -The Greeks were very fond of pomegranates. The finest came from Attica, -so celebrated by the genius of its inhabitants; and from -Bœotia,[XIV-48] that privileged soil, where agriculture and stupidity -flourished together.[XIV-49] - - - - -XV. - -ANIMAL FOOD. - - -Bread, vegetables, and fruit for a long time provided man with a -sufficient and easy alimentation.[XV-1] Wandering with his flocks in -search of cool pasture, he only exacted their wool wherewith to make the -clothing requisite for his migratory life;[XV-2] their services to -assist him in hollowing a difficult furrow;[XV-3] and their first-born -as a most agreeable offering to the all-powerful master of heaven and -earth.[XV-4] We may also suppose that, in the pastoral ages, the -wandering tribes of Asia added to their vegetable food the milk of their -ewes, goats, or cows, although it is not mentioned in the Book of -Genesis[XV-5] at a very early period, it is true, but which forms a -nourishment nature seems to point out as proper to infancy and old -age;[XV-6] mankind, therefore, abstained from animal food during many -centuries.[XV-7] Ecclesiastical and profane writers seem to agree on -this point.[XV-8] Habit had not yet produced disgust, and curiosity, the -fatal mother of experience and sensuality. To eat was for them the most -natural and simple action of life. The art of cookery tries, makes -choice, and improves: that art did not exist. - -The frightful cataclysm which overthrew the world, and of which the -history of every nation gives proofs more or less confused, came to -modify this state of things. “Men were obliged to be fed with more -substantial food,”[XV-9] and our forefathers were allowed to add to -vegetables and the herbs of the country, “animated beings, and all that -which had life and motion.”[XV-10] - -The magiric science, therefore, began in the year of the world 1656. - -From that period, indeed, the cooking of meat, however little -complicated it may have been, required an attention, care, and study, -which prepared the development of that marvellous faculty to which no -possible limit can be assigned--the last to disappear, and to which, in -fact, are related nearly all the actions of human life--_the sense of -taste_. - -Heathen authors, guided by the lights of reason, some gleams of -tradition, and perhaps not absolutely strangers to the writings of -Moses, agree pretty well on the diet of the Golden Age;[XV-11] that age -of innocence, acorns, and happiness,[XV-12] when everywhere were seen -streams of milk, and nectar, and honey, flowing from the hollow oaks and -other trees of the forests.[XV-13] - -But when the question is to point out the time at which the use of -animal food was introduced, ideas become clouded, and highly intelligent -minds, bewildered by the obscurity which envelops the subject, have -frequently appealed to absurd legends and ridiculous fables, invoking -the aid of their false and contested authority. - -Xenocrates pretends that Triptolemus forbad the Athenians to eat -animals.[XV-14] Man must, then, have been still frugivorous for four -centuries after the Deluge. - -This opinion found contradictors, who maintained that man contented -himself with fruit only because fire was wanting to cook meat; but -Prometheus came, and taught him how to draw the useful element from the -flint which concealed it, and was the first to venture on the sacrifice -of an ox.[XV-15] This happened in the year of the world 2412.[XV-16] - -All this is a mistake, say other and very sensible writers; here is the -truth on this difficult point: The goddess Ceres had sown a field, and -the wheat came up as desired, when a pig entered, tumbled about, and -caused considerable damage, which so irritated the lady that she -punished him with death. Now, as a pig is good for nothing except to -eat, this one was eaten; and from that day, so fatal to the swinish -race, mankind learnt to appreciate the flesh of animals.[XV-17] - -At the same time, Bacchus killed a goat he found nibbling at the -tendrils of his darling vines;[XV-18] and Hyberbius, son of Mars, and a -slasher, like his father, amused himself by killing another, in order to -become familiar thus early with scenes of combat.[XV-19] These goats -were roasted; and as experience had as yet furnished no rule of -comparison, and formed no taste--that exquisite sentiment of the -beautiful in the plastic arts, and of the good in the culinary -science--it was decided that this dish was very tolerable. - -Hitherto the bovine race had only lost one individual: its sad destiny -began in the year 1506, before our era, under the reign of the fourth -king of Athens, Erichtonius, on a day of great solemnity, when an ox, -pressed probably by hunger, came near the altar, and devoured one of the -sacred cakes which heathen piety had dedicated to Jupiter. The zealous -Diomus rushed forward, and pierced the heart of the sacrilegious -quadruped. - -It might be supposed that the anger of the god was immediately appeased; -but no! the terrible Jupiter knitted his brows; Olympus was in great -agitation; and pestilence came, and spread its ravages amongst the -Athenians. - -“All did not die, but all were struck;”[XV-20] and, to propitiate the -implacable scourge, they thought of nothing better than to institute the -Buphonic Feast, which happily re-established their health, and which -they continued to celebrate every year. They sacrificed an ox,[XV-21] -offered a piece to Jupiter, and the faithful divided the rest among -themselves. - -At Tyre, in Phœnicia, meat was consumed on the altar, but the gods -had the profit of it, and nobody else. Some fruit and a few vegetables -were sufficient for the frugality of people enjoying innocent and -primitive customs. But it happened, in the time of Pygmalion,[XV-22] -that a young sacrificer having perceived that a piece of the victim had -fallen, hastened to pick it up and replace it carefully on the fire of -the altar. In the performance of this operation he burned his fingers, -and instantly put them into his mouth, to lessen the pain. As he could -not help tasting the fat with which they were covered, the greedy young -man experienced a new sensation, which tempted him to swallow a -mouthful--then a second--a portion of the victim was eaten; he put -another piece under his cloak, and, with his wife, made the finest -supper in his life. All went on very well until the prince, being -informed of this profanation, loaded them with reproaches, and condemned -both to the punishment of death. - -Gluttony, however, is rash: other sacrificers ate--at first in -secret--of this forbidden food; then they were imitated; and, at last, -by degrees meat passed from the altar of the gods, who did not taste it, -to the tables of mortals, who feasted upon it.[XV-23] People may or may -not believe this anecdote, which informs us in so satisfactory a manner -of the epoch at which man, from being frugivorous, became carnivorous; -but one thing is certain, that in the time of Homer (there is only -eighty years between him and Pygmalion), the flesh of animals was then -much in fashion, for we read of his giving to his heroes, as their -principal food, a whole hog, three years old, and oxen roasted--not even -jointed.[XV-24] - -Some ideologists and dreamers have risen against the use of meat; their -declamations, often very eloquent, have been read; but, from Pythagoras, -a sublime and honest enthusiast, down to the whimsical J. J. -Rousseau--who, by-the-by, was very fond of mutton chops and _bœuf à -la mode_, although he exclaimed against the cruelty of mankind, whose -hands were stained with the blood of animals--no nation has yet -determined to adopt the patriarchal diet of the first ages of the world. - -Plutarch was a vegetarian; and we possess one of his treatises, in which -he endeavours to prove that flesh is not the natural food of man.[XV-25] -As a conclusive answer--meat was eaten. So, when an ancient philosopher -one day denied the movement of matter, a person reduced him to silence -by walking. - -But, if animal diet has, from time to time, met with a small number of -detractors, what an immense crowd of apologists and adepts has it not -also found! It would signify nothing to name individuals; let us point -out whole nations. Who is not acquainted with the delicacy and luxury of -the Assyrians and Persians? Who is not aware that the genius of the -Greeks improved the culinary art, and that their cooks were famous in -history? What of the Syracusans, whose dainty and curious ideas passed -as a proverb; and of the Athenians, who were so passionately fond of the -pleasures of the table; or of Naples, Tarentum, and Sybaris, so -celebrated for their good cheer? The Romans surpassed even these -refinements and sumptuous repasts: theirs is the honour of the pontiffs’ -feasts, the excesses of Capreæ, the profusions of Vitellius, of Galba, -Nero, and Caligula. They have the honour of the banquet of Geta, which -lasted three days, and ended by exhausting the alphabetic list of all -the dishes that the universe could supply. - -May heaven preserve us from imitating such prodigies of intemperance and -gluttonous folly; but let us, at least, be allowed to use with -moderation the good that Providence has granted us, and which it has not -forbidden us to make agreeable and savoury. The inhabitants of the air, -earth, and water, entered within our domains, as well as the fruits of -the fields, on the day when the Creator condescended to say to his -creature: - -“Every moving thing that liveth shall be meat for you; even as the green -herb have I given you all things.”[XV-26] - - -REARING OF CATTLE. - -All ancient legislators have bestowed the most serious attention to the -rearing and preservation of cattle. The Mosaic law, in this respect, -enters into details which reveal the most profound wisdom, a delicate -and minute research which cannot be too much admired. - -More attentive to propagate useful animals than to flatter the -sensuality of nations, this law forbids their being mutilated;[XV-27] it -requires the Hebrews to treat with generosity the companions of their -labour;[XV-28] that they shall interest themselves in the preservation -of their brother’s, and even of their enemies’ oxen;[XV-29] that -different species of unequal strength shall not be yoked together to the -plough;[XV-30] and, in order that the cattle may not suffer from an -excess of hard and constant labour, Moses assures to them at least one -day of rest in a week.[XV-31] - -It is well known with what care the patriarchs surrounded their flocks; -for them they wandered from region to region, and only stopped where -pasture was abundant.[XV-32] In imitation of those fathers of nations, -the princes of the East, and the Grecian chiefs, were at first -shepherds;[XV-33] and were, perhaps, indebted to the innocent -occupations of the fields for the sweet and sacred title of pastors of -man.[XV-34] - -The founder of Rome did not forget the flocks and herds, in those famous -laws which were to assure the prosperity of his rising city;[XV-35] one -of them allowed the possessor of an estate to take up the acorns which -might fall into his field from his neighbour’s property,[XV-36] and to -divide them among the cattle he is rearing. - -Under the republic, it was severely forbidden to ill-use beasts of -burthen and others. By the Licinian law, each farmer was required to -proportion the number of his sheep and oxen to the extent of his -land;[XV-37] the Thorian law contains very wise regulations relative to -the quality and keeping up of pasture.[XV-38] Moreover, it is to be -remarked, that the Romans never fixed the limits of a rural property, -nor formed a new colony, without giving their first care to the spots -appointed to feed their flocks,[XV-39] the quiet possession of which was -assured by the Emperors. Adrian, among others, did not encourage -thieves. This prince ordered that whoever carried away cattle grazing in -meadows should be condemned to work in the mines; that those who should -have been convicted of robbery several times should be beheaded; and -that thieves found with arms in their hands should become the prey of -wild beasts.[XV-40] - -Illustrious families by birth often added to their name a sort of -epithet, originating either from bulls, goats, or sheep, which were -brought up on the land of their villas. This singular custom proves the -extraordinary attachment which the Romans had for their flocks. One of -these enthusiasts, Tremellius Scrofa,[XV-41] had written a treatise on -the art of assorting and feeding cattle.[XV-42] Greek and Latin -geoponics have also transmitted to us some details full of interest, and -which often contain most useful information upon the various species of -animals which the ancients preferred, and the particular care they took -in the preservation and development of various breeds.[XV-43] Pagan -theology reckoned among its thirty thousand gods[XV-44] some few -protective divinities of flocks. The shepherds invoked Pales[XV-45] and -Anna Perenna;[XV-46] dealers of oxen offered sacrifices to -Bubona,[XV-47] whose special care it was to see that they were fat and -healthy. - -The animals chosen to be fattened were put under the protection of this -deity, and were fed in the following manner: - -The first day they had given to them cabbages, soaked in vinegar; then, -for five days, straw, mixed with wheat bran; from the seventh day they -had nothing but bruised barley, which was gradually and judiciously -increased till the twelfth day. These oxen were fed at midnight, at -break of day, at twelve o’clock, and at three in the afternoon. They -were allowed to drink only twice--that is, after the third and fourth -meal.[XV-48] On the thirteenth day they were led to market. - - -MARKETS. - -The Hebrews held their cattle market at the gates of their cities; and -from this circumstance, perhaps, is derived those expressions so -frequent in the sacred writings: “The gates of the flocks,” “The sheep’s -gate,” &c.,[XV-49] which no doubt designated the different quarters of -Jerusalem where shepherds and cattle dealers were accustomed to -congregate. - -Among the Greeks, vast, airy, public places, used to receive, under the -orders, and with the authorisation of the _Epimeletes_, or curators, the -animals and meat necessary for the subsistence of the citizens. - -At Rome, the horned cattle market was situated in the eighth region, -behind the Capitoline Mount.[XV-50] It was a magnificent place, -surrounded with beautiful galleries, in the midst of which stood on its -pedestal, a gigantic brazen bull, at a little distance from the temple -of Hercules--a round, mean edifice[XV-51]--where dealers and their -customers went to adore this god, the patron of butchers. - -The way to reach the pig market was by going round the Quirinal Mount, -near the bronze horses of Tyridates, in the seventh region of the -town.[XV-52] This market was the most important of all, on account of -the immense consumption of pork by the Romans. - -As soon as the officer of the Roman præfect appeared, the principal -butchers gathered round him; he examined the cattle, regulated the sale, -and fixed a price on the meat, from which they were not allowed to -deviate,[XV-53] and then only was the market open. - - -BUTCHERS. - -Nothing among the Greeks indicates that they had butchers in the heroic -ages. The warriors of Homer had no want of them, so great was their -skill in cutting up the enormous pieces placed before them.[XV-54] -Ulysses acquired a reputation by his dexterity in this art; and it is -more than probable that his martial companions also distinguished -themselves by this kind of merit. - -As soon as luxury had introduced into Greece that effeminate kind of -existence which only permits certain men to be engaged in the painful or -repulsive details of every-day life, _bouthutes_, or bullock -slaughterers, became indispensable; and of them the meat was bought by -the pound--weighed in the scale as now.[XV-55] - -The Romans had, at first, butchers who dealt in the same way, and who -continued to do so for a long time; but they afterwards employed the -following most extravagant method. The buyer shut one of his hands; the -seller did the same; each of them suddenly opened the whole or a few of -his fingers. If the fingers were even on each side, the seller had the -price he pleased; if they were odd, the buyer gave his own price. This -was called _micare_.[XV-56] The mication was suppressed in the year 360, -by a decree of Apronianus, which is worth quoting, because it points out -in a clear and precise manner the attributions of the Roman butcher, and -the system of sale since followed:-- - -“Reason and experience have proved to us, that it is of public utility -to suppress the practice of mication for the sale of cattle, and that it -is more advisable to sell by weight than to trust to a game with the -fingers. We, therefore, ordain that, after the weight of the animal is -ascertained, the head, feet, and tallow, shall belong to the butcher who -has killed, prepared, and cut it up: this shall be his wages. The skin, -flesh, and entrails, shall belong to the master-butcher who is to retail -it. In this manner, the buyer and seller will know the weight of the -meat on sale, and each will find this method to his advantage. * * * We -will and decree that this ordinance be executed for ever, under pain of -death.”[XV-57] - -There were at first, in Rome, two corporations or colleges of butchers: -one had to take care that the city was always sufficiently supplied with -oxen, calves, and sheep:[XV-58] the other was to provide that immense -capital with the quantity of hogs necessary;[XV-59] and it would be -difficult to form an idea of the number consumed by the Romans. Every -day a distribution was made to the people, by Valentinian’s order, of -24,086 pounds and eight ounces of pork; to this amount, already -considerable, must be added the truly prodigious daily sale; for the -entire population, from the highest to the lowest, were all passionately -fond of this kind of food.[XV-60] - -The obligations and privileges of these two corporate bodies were nearly -the same as those of the bakers.[XV-61] The children could not, under -any pretext whatsoever, abandon the trade of their fathers, without - - - DESCRIPTION OF PLATE No. VIII. - - SCALES AND WEIGHTS.--The ancients had several species of scales. - No. 1. A common scale, with two basins, and a movable weight, which - is made in the form of a head, covered with the pileus, because - Mercury had the weights and measures under his superintendence. - This ornamented scale is engraved on a stone in the gallery of - Florence. - - No. 2. The Roman scale, beautifully made, with one tray, several - hooks, and the movable weight, in the shape of a shell. - - No. 3. Common heavy weight. - - No. 4. The Roman weights had the form of a sphere, partly cut above - and below; the greatest number of those which still subsist are of - basalt. The number of ounces, or of pounds, is commonly engraved on - the top, or inlaid with silver. All round it are inscriptions with - the name of the temple where they were preserved after they had - been stamped, together with the name of the prince, or the præfect - before whom the standard mark was made. - - On No. 4, is “D. N. Honori. Aug. Domini nostri Honorii Augusti;” - and on No. 5, “Temp. Opis. Aug.,” or the temple of Opis Augusta. - -[Illustration: _Pl. 8._] - -incurring the entire loss of their share in the common benefit allowed -by the college. And, be it remembered, this trade was very lucrative, so -much so that those who followed it in Rome always enjoyed a degree of -opulence which sometimes caused the people to murmur. They elected from -among themselves a chief, who judged their differences; he was, however, -subordinate to the præfect of Rome.[XV-62] - -The members of the two corporations cut, weighed, and retailed the meat; -they had under them working butchers, who killed, skinned, and trimmed -the animals, and then brought them each one to the shop of his -master.[XV-63] - -In the sequel, the two colleges met, and formed one. Subsequently, under -the reign of Nero, which seemed at the beginning to promise the most -brilliant prospect, the principal market for butchers became an edifice -equal in magnificence to the Baths, the Circus, and -Amphitheatres.[XV-64] Eventually it was found necessary to erect two new -buildings, on account of the increasing extent of the city and its -inhabitants.[XV-65] The Roman butchers sold both fresh and salt meat, -like our own of the present day. It is not necessary to enter into any -explanation respecting the first; as to the second, their method of -preparation was somewhat different from the way we manage it now:--The -animals they intended to salt were kept from drinking anything on the -eve of the day they were to be killed. They boned the meat, and -sprinkled it lightly with pounded salt; then, after having well dried -off all dampness, they again sprinkled some more salt, and placed the -pieces, so as not to touch each other, in vessels which had been used -for oil or vinegar. They poured sweet wine over, covered the whole with -straw, and strewed snow all round, in order to make the meat better and -more tender.[XV-66] - -When the cook wanted to extract the salt, he first boiled the meat well -in milk, and afterwards in soft water.[XV-67] - -The flesh of various animals was also well preserved without salt. The -only thing necessary was to cover each piece with honey, and to place it -in a vessel hermetically closed, hung in a cool place. This operation -was usually performed in winter, and succeeded equally well with meat, -either cooked or raw.[XV-68] - -The following are some of the statutes of the pork butchers in France, -during the middle ages:-- - -No one was to cook pork if it was not “_sufficient_, or had not good -marrow.” - -No one could make “sausages of anything but pork.” - -No one could sell “black puddings, for it is a perilous viand.”[XV-69] - -The French word _charcutier_ (pork butcher) is derived from _caro -cocta_, _chair cuite_ (cooked meat). - -The numerous regulations concerning the butchers in France during the -14th century rendered it difficult to carry on the trade:-- - -Prohibition to buy cattle except in the markets. - -Prohibition to buy pigs fed by barbers or oil dealers. - -Prohibition to kill cattle not a fortnight old. - -Prohibition to kill cattle on the eve of fast days. - -Prohibition to sell stale meat. - -Prohibition to keep meat more than two days in winter, or more than one -day and a-half in summer. - -Prohibition to sell meat by lamp light or candle light. - -The regulations respecting the cleanliness of the slaughter houses and -the shambles were very long and very severe.[XV-70] - -A butcher in Paris kept but one single kind of meat, in the 14th -century. Pork was sold only at Sainte-Geneviève, mutton at -Saint-Marceau, veal at Saint-Germain, and beef at the market of the -Châtelet.[XV-71] - -Philip Augustus gave statutes to the butchers of Paris in the year 1182. -He enjoined them to observe the Sabbath, and permitted them to work on -the other days, with the exception of the great festivals.[XV-72] - -The regulations imposed upon them in the 17th century are to the effect, -that they shall not keep the fat from one week to another; that they -shall not mix the different kinds of suet; and, lastly, that they shall -not have more than three shops, and shall not allow the blood to run in -the streets.[XV-73] - - - - -XVI. - -ANIMALS. - - -THE PIG. - -If intelligence, strength, or graceful beauty of form were to decide -what rank this numerous class of animals--which has contributed its -quota to the triumphs of the culinary art--should occupy on our tables, -the pig, with its vile and stupid ugliness, its depraved habits, and its -waddling obesity, would be banished for ever from the farm-yard and -larder in every civilised nation of the world. - -But, in refusing to it brilliant external qualities, Nature, by a wise -compensation, has conferred on it others much more solid; and this -quadruped, so despised during its life-time, does not fail after its -death to conciliate the constant favour of rich and poor--of the man -indifferent to the attractions of good cheer, and of the Sybarite, ever -attentive to enlarge its domain. - -Pliny, the naturalist, places the pig one degree below the scale of -beings. Apicius, the cook, gives it a marked preference over all meats -which passed through his skilful hands. From this, it will easily be -understood that the pig presents itself first in this survey of the -animal diet of those nations who have transmitted to us an account of -their gastrophagic exertions. - -History shows us this animal variously appreciated by different -countries. Certain people consecrated it, when living, to their -divinities most in vogue; others honoured its image--a symbol, they -thought, of the quiet happiness of states; a small number abhorred it, -and the greater part found it excellent eating. - -The inhabitants of Cyprus abstained from it, in order to offer it to -Venus.[XVI-1] The Cretans loaded it with acorns and all the comforts of -life, because Jupiter was first suckled by a sow in their island.[XVI-2] -The Egyptian priests never allowed a ham to grace their feasts; they -fled at the sight of pigs, unclean beings, whose presence alone defiled -them,[XVI-3] although respected by the whole nation on account of the -services they rendered in turning up the earth, and covering the seeds -thrown upon it.[XVI-4] - -The law of Moses forbad the Jews to eat this quadruped, or to touch it -after its death,[XVI-5] and more than once they exposed themselves to -the most frightful torments rather than be defiled by this proscribed -viand.[XVI-6] - -Tradition, again, strengthened their religious dread, by interdicting -the faithful from even pronouncing the name of this animal, from looking -at it, or selling it to foreign nations.[XVI-7] - -The fear of the frightful malady to which the pig was subject in -Palestine was, perhaps, the cause of this prohibition. Has not a Jewish -doctor observed, that if ten measures of leprosy were to fall in the -world, this unhappy animal would take nine parts for his share.[XVI-8] -However, some theologians of that nation believe that the Messiah whom -they expect will allow them the use of this now odious food.[XVI-9] - -Like the Jews, the Phœnicians[XVI-10] and Indians[XVI-11] did not eat -pork. The followers of Islamism also abstained from it, in consequence -of a law of the Koran, which Mahomet borrowed from Moses.[XVI-12] - -The Greeks and Romans had very different ideas. They knew that their -gods showed a particular predilection for those altars on which bacon or -swine’s flesh smoked;[XVI-13] they therefore offered this meat in -sacrifice to the Earth, the Lares, to Ceres;[XVI-14] and many a time a -medal struck at Rome perpetuated the remembrance of this solemnity, in -honour of the goddess of harvest.[XVI-15] - -The pig, emblem of fecundity with these two nations,[XVI-16] became, on -the banners of Italy, a sign of pardon and peace.[XVI-17] Kings and -princes immolated two on their wedding-day;[XVI-18] and nations subdued -by the Roman arms prostrated themselves before the standard, whose image -promised them the clemency of their conquerors.[XVI-19] - -The re-establishment of the succulent quadruped would have been -complete, if the cynical carelessness of its rather inelegant habits had -not caused it to become a symbol of debauchery and profligacy of -manners.[XVI-20] - -Hitherto the pig has only figured in a point of view purely historical; -we have not sought to weaken its faults, nor have we made mention of the -qualities attributed to it--for example, that of discovering truffles. -Nevertheless, we ought not to lose sight of the fact, that this animal -has not passed entirely without renown through the centuries which -divide us from the earliest ages of the world. We shall now speak of its -flesh, its exquisite flavour, and the place it occupied in feasts: there -it reigned with honour; there we must follow it, with all that antiquity -has possessed of celebrated men in the science of degustation and good -living. - -Nature has created the pig for man’s palate; he is good only to be -eaten; and life appears to have been given to him merely as a sort of -salt to prevent his corrupting.[XVI-21] It is true that he possesses -only a vulgar and purely animal substance; but how good is this -substance, and how high does it deserve to be placed on account of its -delicacy and flavour?[XVI-22] - -Such is the praise of which a physician and two philosophers have -thought it worthy. - -The pig furnishes a strong and somewhat heavy kind of food;[XVI-23] -wherefore wrestlers were recommended to eat much of it, and Galen -advised it to persons who worked hard, or used violent exercise.[XVI-24] - -But it was not necessary to recommend to the Greeks a meat of which they -were so fond. Look over the long work of Athenæus--he everywhere extols -it, everywhere speaks of it with fresh complacency, and in pompous -terms.[XVI-25] - -An Athenian, renowned as a man of taste and for the refined elegance of -his table, would have thought his reputation lost had he not offered to -his guests fat _andouilles_, sausages, pigs’ feet, and pork cutlets; -above all, he was careful not to forget salted and smoked hams--the -honour of the banquet, and the delight of the human race.[XVI-26] - -The Macedonian, Caranus, invited twenty of his best friends to his -wedding, and gave them a feast, of which gastrophagic annals have -preserved the remembrance. Each guest received from his munificence a -flagon and crown of silver, a crown of gold, and vases of the same -precious metal. What shall we say of the dishes displayed at this -meeting of learned epicureans? Composed by the art of the most skilful -cooks, struck with admiration, they ate and relished, whilst unexpected -wonders unceasingly solicited their fatigued, yet not satiated, -appetites; when at last appeared an immense silver dish, on which was -displayed an entire roasted hog, whose vast sides concealed a multitude -of quails and other small birds, _tétines de truie_, relishing yolks of -eggs, oysters, and a host of shell fish, prepared with that scientific -regard for gastric energy which considerably increases its -power.[XVI-27] - -Macedonia possessed a particular species of pig, greatly envied by the -rest of Greece. Certain individuals of this giant race acquired enormous -proportions, and King Eumenes used to give as much as sixty-four pounds -sterling for one of these animals, provided it measured four feet seven -inches in height, and as much in length.[XVI-28] - -It will be easily understood that the cooks vied with each other, to see -who could form unheard-of combinations with the succulent pieces which -these enormous pigs furnished. They disguised the taste and form in a -thousand different ways, and the most experienced palate was always the -dupe of these exquisite deceptions. Thus Titius Quintus, a clever -amateur, being enraptured with the number and astonishing variety of -dishes which his host caused to be served, at Chalies in Etolia, what -was his surprise when the amiable Amphytrion smilingly told him that he -had eaten nothing but pork![XVI-29] - -Rome, be it observed, knew how to follow the example of Greece; and, in -the hands of its skilful cooks, the flesh of this heavy animal was often -transformed into delicate fish, ducks, turtle doves, or capons.[XVI-30] - -But the masterpiece of these great artists--the _ne plus ultra_ of their -fertile imagination--was the hog _à la Troyenne_, so named because from -the depth of its inside issued battalions of thrushes, myriads of -ortolans, and fig-peckers (becaficoes)--an ingenious image of those -armed cohorts inclosed in the horse of Troy.[XVI-31] Everywhere the -sumptuous dish is cited, but nothing is said of the manner in which it -was prepared. The curious will perhaps be thankful to find that this -omission is here repaired:-- - -The animal is artistically bled under the shoulder. When all the blood -has flowed, the intestines are drawn out by the throat, and washed for a -long time with wine, taking care to pass it through them. The pig is -then hung up by the feet, and washed also with wine. An excellent gravy -must be prepared beforehand, with meat hashed small and well peppered, -with which you stuff the intestines, and then force them back into their -place by the throat. Pour in at the same time a great quantity of gravy, -and fill the animal with small game. Half of the pig is afterwards -covered with a thick paste of barley meal, wine, and oil. It is then put -into a portable oven, on a small metal table, where it is roasted by a -slow fire. When the skin has assumed a fine colour it is withdrawn, and -boiled on the other side; the paste covering is then entirely removed, -and the pig _à la Troyenne_ may be served.[XVI-32] The Romans reared a -great number of these animals, and also procured many from foreign -countries, especially from Arcadia, which produced some of extraordinary -size. Varro relates that in this part of the Peloponnesus he was shown a -pig so fat that it was impossible for the animal to make the least -movement; and that a mouse had settled on its back with her young -family, softly ensconced in the fat, where they fed at the expense of -the careless animal.[XVI-33] - -Rome adopted, with a kind of gastronomic rage, the preparations and -_ragoûts_ celebrated in Greece.[XVI-34] The Trojan pig never failed to -appear on tables renowned for their luxury;[XVI-35] and sucking pigs -were eaten in such profusion, that the censors were obliged to interdict -their use. Alexander Severus renewed this prohibition.[XVI-36] The large -pigs stuffed with game (an expensive delicacy of patrician tables) also -called forth new sumptuary laws,[XVI-37] which only provoked disdain, -and which fashion soon rendered obsolete. - -We hardly dare mention a strange dish, in great request among the rich -and luxurious, who alone could procure it. The first preparation -consisted in stifling the young before they were littered.[XVI-38] Thank -Heaven, this culinary atrocity could not survive an epoch without -parallel, perhaps, in the history of human follies, by we know not what -refinement of incredible gluttony, of frightful depravity, and atrocious -cruelty, which, together, prepared the downfall of the Roman colossus. - -Besides this disgusting dish, much was thought at Rome, as well as at -Athens, of pig’s head, spare-rib, hams, and bacon. Seven other parts -occupied the second rank--these were the ears, feet, foreloin, fillet, -cheek, intestines, and blood.[XVI-39] - -Westphalia supplied sumptuous tables with much-esteemed hams; but those -of Sardinia, Catalonia, and Cantabria were, nevertheless, -preferred.[XVI-40] They were sometimes served at the beginning of a -repast, in order to excite the appetite; and also often at the close, in -order to re-animate its extinguished ardour, and provoke new -libations.[XVI-41] One of the most ancient geoponics teaches how to -prepare, salt, and smoke hams;[XVI-42] for the inhabitants of the -country, and the lower classes in the cities, showed a singular taste -for this delicate meat, which the Gauls (great amateurs of -pork)[XVI-43] sent them at a low price, with an enormous quantity of -pickled pork, _andouillettes_, and sausages.[XVI-44] - -This last preparation, very celebrated in Lucania,[XVI-45] served as a -means of livelihood to a great number of Roman women, who also employed -themselves in making excellent black puddings, in imitation of those -eaten in Greece.[XVI-46] - -Bacon was then of great utility, as in the present day, though oil -superseded it in the concoction of a host of dishes. Bacon for a long -time served almost as the exclusive food of the Romans,[XVI-47] before -their unruly luxury had given it up to the soldiers and -proletarians.[XVI-48] It was also found in all public houses,[XVI-49] -where the populace habitually gorged themselves with pork, -vegetables,[XVI-50] and hot water.[XVI-51] - -The ancients salted the pig, in order to preserve it; but Apicius taught -them a very simple process for the use of epicures, which advantageously -replaced common brine. You take middling-sized pieces of pork, cover -them entirely with a sort of paste, composed of salt, vinegar, and -honey, and place them in vessels which you close carefully.[XVI-52] - -We will now indicate some of the dishes most in vogue prepared with -pork--a meat so much esteemed by the Greeks and Romans, and in which -they believed themselves to have discovered fifty different -flavours,[XVI-53] or fifty parts, each possessing a distinct taste from -the other. - -_Apician Pork._--Roast a fine young sucking pig; and whilst a slow fire -gently embellishes it with a golden colour, pound, with pepper and -alisander, some coriander seed, mint, and rue. Then pour over it some -wine, honey, garum, or gravy; mix with care these different ingredients, -and pour this seasoning on your roast, as soon as you have taken it from -the spit or oven.[XVI-54] - -_Macedonian Pork._--Choose, among a number of large and fine sucking -pigs, the one which appears to you the most worthy of the culinary -sacrifice. Draw it by the upper part; clean it well, and fill it with -chicken sausages chopped small, the flesh of thrushes, ortolans, and -pork; add Lucanian sausages, dates without stones, raisins, and -afterwards, mallow, beet, leeks, parsley, coriander, whole pepper, and -pine nuts; add eggs, and a good quantity of well-peppered gravy. Bake -it, having previously scored the back of the animal, so that it may be -basted with its own gravy. When a delightful odour shall then warn you -that it is done, cover it, before serving, with a relishing mixture of -pepper, rue, garum, or gravy, to which you must add wine, honey, and a -little oil.[XVI-55] - -_Stuffed Sucking Pig._--The intestines are drawn out by the throat, and -an opening made under the skin. You then fill with stuffing a bladder, -to the neck of which is securely fixed a long and narrow tube, which -will convey to every part the somewhat liquid substance which you will -express from the bladder. The opening is then closed with parchment sewn -to the skin. It is hardly necessary to say that this operation should be -performed in several places. - -Let us now see to the inside. Crush pepper, alisander, wild marjoram, -and a little benzoin root; mix with this, garum or gravy, cooked brains, -raw eggs, flour, and pork gravy; the whole must be boiled on a slow -fire, and the pig filled with it, also with little birds, pine nuts, -whole pepper, and garum. It now only remains to place it in the oven, -watch over the cooking, baste it with gravy, and serve.[XVI-56] - -_Aristoxenic Ham._--Take a fresh ham, salt it, and smoke it two days; -then rub it with a mixture of oil and vinegar, and hang it to the -ceiling.[XVI-57] Some days after you must boil it with a great quantity -of figs and three bay leaves; then take off the skin, make incisions in -the flesh, and fill them with honey. Finally, prepare a paste of flour -and oil, with which cover the ham; put it into the oven, and withdraw it -only when this crust is completely done.[XVI-58] - -_Lucullian Ham._--Cook a ham, newly salted, with two pounds of barley -and twenty-five figs. Then bone it, and slightly scarify the skin with -an iron blade; put it into the oven, taking care to cover it with a -little honey. When it begins to colour, put into a saucepan some cooked -wine, pepper, wine and a bunch of rue, the half of which is then poured -on the ham. The other half of this seasoning serves to humect the -quenelles which you have taken beforehand from the ham previous to -baking; these must be well soaked with gravy, and then, if you have any -remaining, pour it over the ham, which you serve surrounded by the -quenelles.[XVI-59] - -_Ventre de Truie à l’Athénienne._--It is boiled with sweet herbs and -served with a seasoning of cummin seed, vinegar, and silphium.[XVI-60] - -_Ventre de Truie à la Romaine._--It is cooked in the manner before -described, and seasoned with a sauce composed of pepper, parsley seed, -dried mint, benzoin-root, honey, vinegar, and garum.[XVI-61] - -_Fillet of Pork à la Bœotienne._--When it has been covered with -honey and vinegar, and baked in the oven, it is eaten with a seasoning -of pepper, benzoin, and garum.[XVI-62] - -_Tétines de Truie à la Salienne._--Cook them in water; make several -incisions; cover them with salt, and place them in the oven, or on the -gridiron; prepare a seasoning of pepper and alisander, with garum, wine, -and cooked wine; thicken with fine floor; put in the _tétines_, and -serve.[XVI-63] - -_Tétines à la Flamine._--Mix the flesh of a sea-hedge hog with carrots -and pepper; introduce the mixture into the _tétines_; sew up the -opening; cook them in the oven, or on the gridiron, and eat them with -brine and mustard.[XVI-64] - -_Olympian Pig’s Liver._--Take the liver of a pig that has been fed only -on figs, bake it, and serve with a seasoning of œnogarum, pepper, -thyme, alisander, garum, oil, and a little vinegar.[XVI-65] - -_Capitolian Pig’s Liver._--Make incisions in the liver of a pig that has -been fed on nothing but figs, and put it into garum with pepper, -alisander, and two bay leaves; then wrap it in the caul, cook it on the -gridiron, and serve.[XVI-66] - -_Campanian Bacon._--It is cooked by just covering it with water and a -good quantity of dill, to which a little oil and salt are afterwards -added.[XVI-67] - -_Quenelles of Pig’s Liver and Brains._--Roast a pig’s liver, and take -off all the fibrous parts; sprinkle it with pounded pepper and rue; add -some gravy; stir the whole well; then cut it into small slices, each of -which you must cover with a bay leaf; hang them over the smoke as long -as you think necessary. - -When you wish to eat them, roast them afresh; then put them into a -mortar, with pepper, alisander, and wild marjoram; stir them, add gravy -and dressed sucking pigs’ brains, pounded with care; then add five eggs, -and dissolve them in such a manner as to make the whole thoroughly -compact; pour over it some gravy, and cook in a saucepan; when cooked, -throw it on a very clean table, and out this pulp into small square -pieces, which mix in the mortar with pepper, alisander, and wild -marjoram. When you have gently stirred all this, it must again be put -into a saucepan, and boiled over a slow fire. At the moment of -ebullition, pour it on a plate, sprinkle with pepper, and serve.[XVI-68] - -_Lucanian Sausages._--Pound in a mortar some pepper, cummin, and winter -savory with bay leaves, and moisten with gravy and garum; then add to -this mixture some pork, chopped small, more garum and pepper, and a good -quantity of bacon, with a few pine nuts. When these various ingredients -are well incorporated one with another, you stuff the prepared -intestines, and hang up the sausages.[XVI-69] - -_Imperial Sausages._--Cut some pork into very small pieces, which most -be pounded with the finest bread, well-soaked in wine; then pound some -pepper and decorticated myrtle leaves, and add some gravy. Make some -small sausages, and put inside some fir-nuts. When these sausages are -finished, you must cook them over a slow fire, with sweet wine, -previously reduced to a-third.[XVI-70] - -The following is the seasoning you must add to it:-- - -Bone some small chickens, and put them into a saucepan, with leeks, -dill, and salt. When this is cooked, add pepper and smallage seed; then -crumble some sesame bread, on which pour some very thick gravy, mix the -whole well, and serve with the sausages.[XVI-71] - -The Gauls had very considerable herds of swine, which they fed -exclusively upon acorns. The inhabitants of the towns reared them in -their houses. As these animals went frequently out, they caused some -obstruction, and we know that Philip, grandson of Louis-le-Gros, lost -his life in Paris, in consequence of a furious pig having run between -the legs of his horse, and caused him to fall. This accident took place -on the 1st October, 1181. The 3rd of the same month a proclamation was -issued, forbidding all persons to let their swine ramble through the -streets of Paris. A short time after, those which belonged to the Abbaye -Saint-Antoine were privileged; the abbess and the nuns having -represented that it would be a want of courtesy to their patron saint -not to exempt his hogs from the general rule.[XVI-72] - -A new proclamation of the 20th January, 1850, interdicted with still -greater severity the rearing of swine in the town of Paris, under -penalty of a fine of 60 sous (two shillings and four-pence); and the -police were authorized to kill them wheresoever they might be found, to -take the head as a perquisite for themselves, and to deposit the carcase -at the Hôtel-Dieu (the name of an hospital), charging that establishment -with the cost incurred for its conveyance.[XVI-73] - -There was nothing more delicate in the 16th century, nothing more -odoriferous, than the flesh of young pigs fed on parsnips,[XVI-73A] and -roasted, with a stuffing of fine herbs.[XVI-73B] - - -THE OX. - -A profound sentiment of gratitude has been often the cause of rendering -to the ox extraordinary honours, which no animal, perhaps, ever shared -with him. The Egyptians considered this quadruped as the emblem of -agriculture, and of all that serves to support existence;[XVI-74] and -incense smoked on its altars at Memphis and Heliopolis.[XVI-75] - -The Phœnicians religiously abstained from its flesh, and the -Phrygians punished with death whosoever dared to slay the labouring -ox.[XVI-76] - -In Greece, during the heroic ages, an ox was the reward adjudged to the -conquering wrestlers and pugilists; a horse was the prize of racing or -the quoits.[XVI-77] - -At a later period the Athenians decreed that their coins should bear the -image of this useful quadruped;[XVI-78] and though they then offered it -to their gods, the ceremonies even of the sacrifice testified the -repugnance felt at shedding its blood. - -The sacrificer fled with the greatest speed after he had struck it; he -was followed, and, to avoid being arrested, he threw away the axe he had -used, and accused it of causing the death of the innocent ox. The axe -was then seized and tried; some one defended it, and alleged that it was -less guilty than the grinder who had sharpened the blade. The latter -cast the odium of the crime on the grinding stone, so that the trial was -never ended, and the pretended offence remained unpunished.[XVI-79] - -For a long time the greater part of the ancients considered it a sin to -eat the flesh of the ox, the companion of the agriculturist, whose -patient vigour hollows the furrow which is to be the means of his -support.[XVI-80] But the bad example of Proserpine, who prepared one for -Hercules,[XVI-81] caused these scruples, one by one, to be hushed, the -solemn prohibition of the legislator of Athens forgotten;[XVI-82] and, -in spite of the obstinate resistance of the Pythagorians and the -disciples of Empedocles, every one declared in favour of the doctrines -of Zeno and Epicurus. - -Moreover, it is certain that the heroes of Homer were not so scrupulous: -Menelaus offered roast-beef to Telemachus; Agamemnon also presented some -to the wise Nestor; and an ox, roasted whole, frequently appeased the -robust appetite of the illustrious chiefs of Greece.[XVI-83] - -If we go back to centuries still more remote, and of which a venerable -historian has preserved us an account, we find herds of oxen were -possessed by the great patriarchal families.[X][XVI-84] Abraham cooked a -calf and served it to the three angels, in the valley of Mamre;[XVI-85] -and the flesh of this animal, whether ox or heifer, was evidently much -in use in the primitive ages, since no particular proscription exempts -them from those beings having “life and motion,”[XVI-86] and which are -to serve us as food.[XVI-87] As to Moses, far from interdicting it to -the Israelites, he places the ox in the first rank of pure -animals,[XVI-88] whose flesh was allowed them. - -The oracle of ancient medicine, Hippocrates, praises the flesh of the -ox, in which he recognises the most nutritious qualities, but -nevertheless he believes it to be heavy and indigestible.[XVI-89] - -Of what material, then, must have been the stomach of Theagenes, of -Thasos--he, who devoured a whole bull in one day.[XVI-90] - -To be sure, the same exploit is attributed to Milo of Crotona, whose -ordinary meal consisted of eighteen pounds of meat, as much bread, and -fifteen pints of wine.[XVI-91] These formidable polyphagists could, -without much expense, indulge their fabulous appetites; for, in the time -of Demosthenes, 354 B.C., an ox of the first quality cost only eighty -drachmas, or about two pounds, eleven shillings, and eightpence.[XVI-92] - -Magiric writers have left us very few details on the different methods -of cooking the flesh of the ox or calf. It appears to have been -generally roasted,[XVI-93] in which case it was eaten alone; but -sometimes it was eaten boiled, with one of the sauces to be hereafter -mentioned. - -These animals were fed with particular care, in order to render them -more worthy of the luxurious tables for which certain choice pieces were -destined. The manner of fattening oxen has already been described: it is -only necessary to add, that calves, which were to be slaughtered, -received no other food than their mothers’ milk; and that, frequently, -they were not killed before the expiration of a twelvemonth.[XVI-94] - -Double tripe was reputed as an excellent food. The Asiatics, Greeks, -and Romans were particularly fond of it. It was served at a sumptuous -repast prepared for Achilles; and Homer observes, that this dish was -always honourably received at the banquets of heroes.[XVI-95] - -Athenæus, describing a feast of the most exquisite elegance, names -double tripe among a host of dishes he enumerates;[XVI-96] he also says, -speaking of a state dinner at which Philoxenus, one of the generals of -Alexander the Great, was a guest, that first of all there appeared large -basins containing the intestines of animals, disposed with art around -their heads:[XVI-97] and it is thus, he adds, that even the gods gave -themselves up, in the society of their friends, to the pleasures of good -cheer.[XVI-98] To be brief, this artless chronicler of antique -gastrophagy, tells us that after the sacrilegious undertaking of the -Titans, the human race enjoyed such perfect happiness, that men caused -to be served at every one of their repasts delicious double tripe and -savoury intestines.[XVI-99] - -This touching example of felicity and innocent gluttony found few -imitators at Rome among that class of voluptuous men who entertained, at -enormous expense, tasters whose discriminating palates could tell -whether a fish had been caught at the mouth of the Tiber, or further -off; whether a goose’s liver had been fattened with fresh figs, or only -on dried ones.[XVI-100] For them tripe could have very little -attraction, but this rather plebeian dish appeared with honour on modest -tables, and proletarian epicures sought for it with eagerness.[XVI-101] - -_Beef à l’Ibérienne._--Well boil an excellent piece of beef, and serve -it with the following sauce. Grind and mix pepper, alisander, parsley -seed, wild marjoram, and dried onions; moisten with sun-made raisin -wine; stir, and add honey, vinegar, wine, garum, oil, and sweet -wine.[XVI-102] - -_Stewed Beef à la Sarmate._--Carefully choose a piece of beef, which -stew slowly for a long time with leeks, cut small, onions, or beans. -When it is well cooked, pour over a mixture of pepper, benzoin, and a -little oil.[XVI-103] - -_Dish of Veal à la Syracusaine._--Cook a piece of veal, on a slow fire, -with pepper, alisander, carrots, and parsley seed, bruised together in a -mortar; then add honey, vinegar, garum, and oil; thicken the whole with -fine flour, and serve.[XVI-104] - -_Noix de Veau à la Tarantaise._--Take a _noix de veau_, cook it in a -saucepan with pepper, alisander, and fenugreek seed; add, later, some -wild marjoram, pine nuts, and dates; then moisten with a mixture of -honey, vinegar, garum, mustard, and oil. When the cookery of these -various substances shall have made an homogeneous whole, serve.[XVI-105] - -_Cisalpine Preserve._--Mince some beef in very small pieces; do the same -with a little bacon; add pine nuts, pounded with dates; pour on the -whole a mixture of vinegar, garum, mustard, and oil; stir well, and -throw on this pulp a powder of strong odoriferous herbs. Stir it a long -time, let it rest, compress it strongly in a prepared intestine, close -the opening, and put a string round to tighten it still more. This -preserve cannot turn bad.[XVI-106] - -The ox was so precious among the Romans, that mention is made of a -certain citizen accused before the people and condemned, because he had -killed one of his oxen to satisfy the fancy of a young libertine, who -told him he bad never eaten any tripe. He was banished, as if he had -killed his farmer.[XVI-107] - -The Brahmin women think to obtain abundance of milk and butter by -invoking one particular cow,--the darling cow of the king of heaven; the -type, mother, and patroness of all cows. The entire species are treated -with the greatest deference; they have lavished upon them every -expression of gratitude, and one day of each year is set apart as a -solemn festival consecrated to their worship.[XVI-108] - -Some centuries ago the large pieces of meat were boiled first, and then -roasted. Roasted meat was always served with sauce. Animals roasted -whole were generally filled with an aromatic stuffing. Sage was the -common seasoning for geese, and sucking-pigs were stuffed with chesnuts. -Some minutes before these were taken from the spit, they were covered -with bread crumbs; and appeared on the table enveloped in a crust -composed of bread, sugar, orange juice, and rose water.[XVI-109] - -_Bœuf Gras._--There is a very old custom in the whole of France, and -which consists in leading throughout the streets, in the provincial -towns, on Shrove Tuesday, a fatted ox, ornamented with flowers and -ribbons. This ceremony is considered as a commemorative emblem of the -fecundity of the earth. In Paris, the ox chosen for the same purpose has -generally obtained beforehand the prize awarded by the Agricultural -Society. The horns of the animal are gilded; he is afterwards decorated -in a sumptuous manner, and led through the principal thoroughfares of -that city, on Shrove Sunday, Monday, and Tuesday, to the Palace of the -Tuileries, the ministerial residences, the Hôtel-de-Ville, and the -foreign embassies. Troops of butchers, dressed in appropriate fancy -costumes, both on horseback and on foot, are preceded by bands of -music; and the heathen divinities, drawn by eight horses in a richly -gilt triumphal car, form one of the most splendid and grotesque pageants -of modern times. - - -THE LAMB. - -Formerly, sworn examiners of the clouds, skilful in discovering the -storms they concealed, announced to the inhabitants of the country the -hail by which their crops were threatened, and every one immediately -offered a sacrifice to the inimical cloud, in order that it might carry -ruin and desolation elsewhere. The most devout sacrificed a lamb; the -lukewarm worshippers a fowl; some even contented themselves with -pricking their finger with a pin, and throwing towards heaven the drops -of blood which came out. The cloud, it is said, satisfied with these -pious offerings, soon disappeared never to return.[XVI-110] - -The lamb, an oblation pure and agreeable in the sight of the gods, -reconciled the earth with Olympus. In Egypt, the inhabitants of Sais and -Thebes offered it to their divinities.[XVI-111] Minerva and Juno also -were pleased to see its flesh smoking on the altars which Greece and -Italy raised to them.[XVI-112] - -These practices, no doubt, were an obscure imitation of the religious -rites which Moses prescribed to his people,[XVI-113] and which heathen -nations adopted in their turn, one from the other.[XVI-114] - -The Hebrew law forbad the killing of the Paschal lamb before it was -weaned, and also the cooking of it in its mother’s milk. It was to be -eaten roasted, with unleavened bread, lettuces, mustard, or bitter -herbs: whatever might remain was to be burnt with fire. It was not to be -boiled, nor a bone of it broken. It must be chosen of that year, a male, -and without fault or blemish.[XVI-115] - -Many passages of the sacred writings allow us to appreciate the pastoral -riches of the first nations of the East; and an idea may be formed of -the number of their flocks, when we are told that Jacob gave the -children of Hamor a hundred sheep for the price of a field;[XVI-116] and -that the King of Israel received a hundred thousand every year from the -King of Moab, his tributary, and a like number of rams, covered with -their fleece.[XVI-117] - -The delicate flesh of the lamb was the ornament of the tables of the -voluptuous inhabitants of Sion and Samaria. The prophet Amos reproaches -them with this luxury, and threatens them with the Divine anger[XVI-118] -on that account. The Greeks carried their love for this meat to such a -height, that the magistrates of Athens were obliged to forbid the eating -of lamb which had not been shorn.[XVI-119] This restriction did not -prevent the epicures of Attica from buying one of these animals every -day, which cost them ten drachmas[XVI-120] (6_s._ 5_d._), and the head -of which, prepared with art, heightened the beauty of the first -course.[XVI-121] Rome and Italy imitated Greece,[XVI-122] and the flocks -of the fertile Campania hardly sufficed for the exigencies of the -capital of the world, especially towards the end of autumn, a period at -which lambs afforded, according to the Romans, a more highly flavoured -and wholesome meat than in the spring.[XVI-123] - -_Lamb’s Head à la Quirinale._--The head is boiled with pepper, garum, -and beans, and served with a sauce consisting of garum, pepper, benzoin, -and cummin, to which is added a little oil, and small pieces of bread, -soaked in sweet wine.[XVI-124] - -_Quarter of Lamb à l’Esquilin._--Place a quarter of lamb in a saucepan -with onions and coriander, chopped very small. Then pound pepper, -alisander, and cummin; put to it some oil, wine, and garum. Pour the -whole on the lamb; cook well, and thicken with fine flour.[XVI-125] - -_Palatine Broil._--Leave a piece of lamb during some time in a mixture -of pepper, benzoin, garum, and oil. After having cooked it in oil and -garum, put it a little while on the gridiron, sprinkle with pepper, and -serve.[XVI-126] - -_Roast Lamb à la Phrygienne._--Bake a lamb and serve it with the -following sauce:--Mix well half an ounce of pepper, six scruples of -cinnamon, a little ginger, half a pint of excellent garum, and the -quarter of that quantity of oil.[XVI-127] - -_Lamb à la Trimalcion._--Draw a lamb at the neck; preserve the -intestines entire, and wash them with the greatest care; fill them with -force meat and garum; put them back again by the same way; sew up the -opening, and place the lamb in the oven. Then mix gravy and milk; add -pounded pepper, garum, wine, sweet wine, and oil; let it boil only an -instant; thicken with fine floor, and serve it with the lamb.[XVI-128] - -Blount informs us of a very ancient and rather strange custom. He -says:-- - -“At Kidlington, in Oxfordshire, the custom is, that on Monday after -Whitson week, there is a fat, live lamb provided, and the maids of the -town, having their thumbs tied behind them, run after it, and she that -with her mouth takes and holds the lamb is declared _Lady of the Lamb_, -which, being dressed, with the skin hanging on, is carried on a long -pole before the Lady and her companions to the Green, attended with -music, and a morisco dance of men and another of women, when the rest of -the day is spent in dancing, mirth, and merry glee. The next day the -lamb is part baked, boiled, and roast, for the Lady’s feast, where she -sits majestically at the upper end of the table, and her companions with -her, with music and other attendants, which ends the -solemnity.”[XVI-129] - - -THE KID. - -The kid was one of the most delicate dishes of the Hebrews: Rebecca -prepared some for Isaac, in order to dispose him to give his blessing to -Jacob.[XVI-130] Moses ordered that, for the Feast of Passover, a lamb or -a kid should be slain.[XVI-131] Samson carried a kid to his young wife -when he wished to be reconciled to her.[XVI-132] The brother of the -prodigal son complains to his father that he has never given him a kid -to make merry with his friends.[XVI-133] - -The Egyptians, who represented their god Pan with the face and legs of a -goat, abstained religiously from killing a kid or eating its -flesh.[XVI-134] Their veneration for this animal went so far, in some -countries, that goat-keepers appeared in their eyes invested with an -august and sacred character.[XVI-135] The Greeks did not judge it -convenient to adopt these strange ideas, although on other points their -theology was sufficiently ridiculous. The kid was considered one of the -most dainty dishes in state banquets; it was served whole, on a silver -basin, to each of the guests at the wedding of the Macedonian, -Caranus.[XVI-136] - -The kids of Attica were especially praised, and a considerable trade -was made of them in Athens.[XVI-137] Certain connoisseurs, whose -authority had weight, preferred, however, those produced in the Island -of Mælos.[XVI-138] A great many also came from Sicily: they were in less -repute, and sold at a low price.[XVI-139] - -At Rome, the kid of Italy was much thought of; the most delicate were -fattened at Tivoli,[XVI-140] and in different localities of the Roman -Campagna.[XVI-141] - -_Kid à la Trans-Tibérienne._--The kid is to be cooked slowly, with a -little milk, four ounces of honey, an ounce of pepper, a little salt and -benzoin. After some time, add eight dates crushed in a mortar, a little -gravy, garum, a small quantity of excellent wine; the whole is thickened -with fine flour.[XVI-142] - -_Roast Kid à la Janiculum._--Empty and carefully clean a kid; rub it -well with oil and pepper; sprinkle with salt and a large quantity of -coriander seed; place it in the oven, and bake slowly.[XVI-143] - -_Kid à la Tarpéienne._--Empty the kid; stuff it, and sew it up; then -entirely cover it with a thick mixture of pepper, rue, winter savory, -onions, a small quantity of thyme, and some garum; then place it in an -oven, or on a dish, covered with oil. When the kid is cooked, you -surround it with a sauce of winter savory, onions, rue, dates, mixed -with wine, oil, and cooked wine; sprinkle with pepper, and -serve.[XVI-144] - -_Kid à la Tivoli._--Bake the kid; then pound some pepper, rue, onions, -winter savory, and Damascus plums (without their stones), a little -benzoin, which you must dilute in wine, garum, and oil; throw this sauce -on the kid as you withdraw it from the oven, and, at the moment of -serving, cover it with boiling wine.[XVI-145] - -_Kid à la Mélissienne._--Draw the kid at the neck, and clean the -intestines; then pound some pepper, alisander, benzoin root, two bay -leaves, and a little Spanish camomile; add two or three brains; mix them -well together; then add some garum and a little salt; afterwards, a -small quantity of milk and honey. Fill the intestines with this -stuffing, and place them round the kid, which you then put into a large -basin on the fire. When half-cooked, you must add a mixture of garum, -oil, and wine. Then bruise some pepper and alisander seed, which moisten -with the gravy of the kid, and a little cooked wine; pour it into the -basin, and the moment before serving thicken with fine flour.[XVI-146] - - -THE ASS. - -The ass was an impure animal, according to the law of Moses, whose flesh -was forbidden because it did not ruminate.[XVI-147] However, at the -siege of Samaria, the Jews were compelled to eat it for want of other -food. The famine was such, that the head of an ass was sold for eighty -pieces of silver.[XVI-148] - -The Roman peasants thought the flesh of the young ass had a very -agreeable taste,[XVI-149] and regaled themselves with it at their rustic -festivals. The celebrated Mecænas one day tasted of this dish at the -house of one of his free slaves; he spoke of it with much praise, caused -it to be served on his own table, and even succeeded in introducing it -on those of the great and rich, who gave up the onager, or wild ass, -which they had hitherto preferred, to humour this illustrious favourite. -But this new gastronomic conquest had only a short vogue; and was -forgotten after the death of Mecænas.[XVI-150] Galen tells us that the -cooks of Alexandria thought much of the ass,[XVI-151] whose flesh, he -says, much resembles that of the stag.[XVI-152] Still, this great -physician disapproves of the use of this food, which he considers -unsuited to mankind.[XVI-153] - -It is asserted, even at the present day, that the flesh of the young ass -is a pretty good dish; we have heard, but we hardly can repeat it, that -much is consumed in the _guinguettes_ round Paris, where the artless -customers are far from thinking that anything else but veal can be -served to them. - -The modern restaurateurs of the Barrières of Paris, have, perhaps, read -the biography of Mecænas, and endeavour to render popular the dish so -honoured by the celebrated favourite. Who can blame them? - - -THE DOG. - -We must beg pardon of the reader for informing him that the dog -presented a very relishing dish to many nations advanced in culinary -science. To them, one of these animals, young, plump, and delicately -prepared, appeared excellent food.[XVI-154] - -The Greeks, that people so charming by their seductive folly, their love -of the arts, their poetic civilization, and the intelligent spirit of -research presiding over their dishes--the Greeks (we grieve to say it) -ate dogs, and even dared to think them good: the grave Hippocrates -himself--the most wise, the least gluttonous, and therefore the most -impartial of their physicians--was convinced that this quadruped -furnished a wholesome and, at the same time, a light food.[XVI-155] - -As to the Romans, they also liked it,[XVI-156] and no doubt prepared it -in the same manner as the hare, which they thought it resembled in -taste.[XVI-157] - -However, it is but right to add, that this dish, which we will not even -hear mentioned, was never favourably received by the fashionable portion -of Roman society, and that the legislators of ancient gastrophagy even -repulsed it with disdain. - -There is every reason to believe that the people regaled themselves with -a roast or boiled dog, especially once a year, at the period when they -celebrated the deliverance of the Capitol from the siege of the Gauls. -It is known that, at this solemnity, a goose, laid on a soft cushion, -was carried in triumph, followed by an unhappy dog nailed to a -cross,[XVI-158] whose loud cries greatly amused the populace. In this -manner they commemorated the signal service rendered by one animal, and -the fatal negligence of the other. The Gauls scaled the Capitol while -the dogs slept, and Rome had been lost if the deafening cries of the -geese had not given an alarm to the garrison, who, it must be allowed, -should have kept better watch. - -The quadrupeds last mentioned are the only domestic animals of the kind -used as food by the ancients. The chase afforded them several others, -which we shall mention, after having just glanced at the poultry--one of -the most interesting divisions in natural history for the serious and -reflective appreciator of gastronomic productions. - - - - -XVII. - -POULTRY. - - -The air is less dense than the earth, said Aristotle; poultry ought, -then, to stand higher in estimation than quadrupeds.[XVII-1] It is, adds -Galen, the lightest and best of all aliments.[XVII-2] After this, would -any one dare to accuse of sensuality those who, wisely following the -diet recommended by these great men, prefer a fat capon or delicate -fowl, to heavy, common butcher’s meat? - -Our masters, the ancients, have left us fine examples on this head. In -vain did impertinent sumptuary laws, enemies of progress, strive to -repress the luxury of the farm-yards. These precautions on behalf of -abstinence against the magiric genius were unceasingly met by a -resistance, as energetic as it was truly Roman. Fannius, Archius, -Cornelius, could make martyrs; but let us say, with pride, good cheer -never had cause to envy them deserters and apostates. One of these -tyrannical decrees was just published; a tribune of the people, a man of -heart and taste, undertook to have it repealed. He courageously mounted -the rostrum, and cried, with an inspired voice: “Romans! you are treated -like slaves. By the gods! what can be more strange than the new law? -They would force you to sobriety, whether you will or no! They would -impose temperance on you! Ah! renounce this pretended liberty, of which -you are so jealous, since you are no longer allowed to ruin yourselves, -each one according to his fancy, or die of indigestion if you please.” - -This discourse was received as it deserved to be, and unanimous applause -proved to the orator that he was addressing men capable of understanding -him. But, alas! this excellent tribune had a dangerous enemy: the -censor, Lucius Flaccus, a sort of fanatic teetotaller and carniphobis of -that time, had sufficient credit to cause this worthy citizen to be -driven from the senate. But Rome revenged him by devouring more poultry -than ever.[XVII-3] - -In the early ages of the Church, poultry in general was regarded as a -food for fast days; and this opinion was founded on the text in Genesis, -where it is said that birds and fishes were created on the fifth day, -whereas quadrupeds were created on the sixth.[XVII-4] - -St. Benedict, in his rule, does not formally forbid the monks any other -flesh than that of quadrupeds; and St. Columbanus, in his, permits the -monks the flesh of poultry, in default of fish. The Greek monks ate it -down to the 10th century. - - -THE COCK. - -An object of divine worship in Syria,[XVII-5] the cock was considered by -almost every nation as the emblem of vigilance and courage.[XVII-6] -Thus, heathen antiquity consecrated it to the god of battles.[XVII-7] -Themistocles, marching with his army against Xerxes, King of Persia, met -with some cocks fighting furiously; he made his troops halt, that they -might observe them, and he then addressed a spirited discourse to them -on the subject. He conquered, and on his return to Athens, desired that -every year a cock-fight should commemorate his victory.[XVII-8] These -cruel games soon spread throughout Greece, and feathered champions were -reared with great care, and obtained at a high price from Rhodes, -Bœotia, Mela, and Chalcis.[XVII-9] - -Italy also wished to enjoy this barbarous pastime. At Pergamus, any -spectator might throw a cock into the arena, and a prize was awarded to -the lucky possessor of the bird who remained master of the field of -battle.[XVII-10] - -This warlike bird has never enjoyed a high culinary reputation; -nevertheless, it was eaten when old, that is to say, at that period of -its life when its flesh, hard, fibrous, and tough, possesses neither -juice nor flavour--then this wretched food was left to those among the -common people who joyously feasted in the drinking-shops of Rome. They, -however, always avoided making fricassees of white cocks, because they -were consecrated to the month, and proclaimed the hours.[XVII-11] - - -THE CAPON. - -The cock being banished from the table of all respectable people, the -necessity of dressing hens became evident, for it was necessary to live. -Now, you are aware that there are two sorts of hens; one sort -consumptive looking and tough, the other tender, plump, and before which -an epicure banishes every other thought, and sighs with pleasure. These -last were preferred, and, in order to render them more worthy of the -voluptuous epicures for whom they were intended, they learned from the -inhabitants of the island of Cos the art of fattening them in dark and -closed places, with certain wonderful pastes, which increased their -delicacy and tempting whiteness.[XVII-12] - -This ingenious invention belonged to Greece and Asia. Rome possessed -herself of it, and even improved it; but soon the constant tyrant of the -kitchen, the Consul, C. Fannius, who thought bad what others thought -good, and who pretended that in consequence of the immense consumption -made of them, the result would be that not a living hen would be left in -the empire, ordered that for the future the Romans should dispense with -fattening and eating this delicious winged animal.[XVII-13] - -Fortunately, the law said nothing about young cocks; this silence saved -Roman gastronomy, and the capon was invented.[XVII-14] It is not -necessary to relate with what transports of delight this new creation -was greeted; it will be easily understood. Rome was moved; the famous -Greek cooks, who consecrated their science to _her_, were on tip-toe. -Everywhere, from mouth to mouth, spread the name of the skilful -enchanter, who could in such a manner metamorphose the clarion of the -farm yard. Fannius, himself, it is said, wished to be assured of the -truth of the prodigy: he was served with a roast capon, and the praises -he bestowed on it were assuredly the triumph of the bird, of epicures, -and of art.[XVII-15] From this remarkable epoch, nearly all chickens -underwent the ingenious transformation which rendered them so welcome to -all Lucullian tables;[XVII-16] and it caused such a destruction of -birds, that the consul repented, but too late, that he had only named -hens in his sumptuary law. - -_Capon à la Déliaque._--Draw completely a fat capon; then bruise pepper, -alisander, and ginger, which you must mix with sausage-meat and fine -flour, and a pig’s brains cooked; add some eggs, then some garum, a -little oil, whole pepper, and several pine nuts. Make a stuffing of this -mixture, and put it into the capon, which afterwards roast before a slow -fire.[XVII-17] - - -THE HEN. - -The cackling of hens infallibly announced, among the ancients, some -dreadful calamity to the person who had the misfortune to hear -it.[XVII-18] This fatal omen must have rendered a great number of people -unfortunate; for whether she lays eggs, or conducts her young family, a -hen generally cackles. - -They therefore sought to diminish the number of these birds of ill-omen; -they fattened them for eating, and they did right, since, according to -learned physicians, the flesh of these birds is good for weakly persons, -as well as those who are convalescent.[XVII-19] Healthy individuals also -find this food suit them perfectly. In Greece there would have been -something wanting at a feast, if fat hens had not been served. They -embellished the celebrated wedding repast of Caranus; and Athenæus often -speaks of them when describing a grand banquet.[XVII-20] - -At Rome, the art of fattening them became a serious occupation, which -was long studied, and had its precepts and rules. Marcus Lœlius -Strabo, belonging to the order of knights, invented aviaries in which -hens were confined;[XVII-21] others sought and discovered the means of -giving to their flesh that particular flavour unperceived by -uncultivated palates, but which the experienced gastrophilist always -appreciates. They patiently gave themselves up to laborious experiments: -a warm, narrow, dark spot received these interesting _volatiles_; the -feathers of their wings and tails were plucked, and they were gorged -twice a day during three weeks with balls of barley flour mixed with -soft water. Great cleanliness was combined with this diet: their heads -were well cleansed, and care taken that no insect should enter the -aviary.[XVII-22] - -Afterwards barley flour, kneaded with milk, was preferred; then, instead -of milk, water, and honey were employed. Excellent wheaten bread, soaked -in good wine and hydromel, was also used with success.[XVII-23] - -Skilful breeders by these means obtained magnificent hens of an -incredibly exquisite flavour, and which weighed no less than sixteen -pounds.[XVII-24] - -The Fannian law unfortunately came, and, as we have before observed, -brought impediments to these beautiful results by interdicting aviaries -and skilfully prepared pastes. It is true that this law allowed a -farm-yard hen to be served at every repast[XVII-25]--_mais une poule par -jour est-ce contentement?_ It became necessary, then, to have recourse -to a _mezzo-termine_, which was discovered in the capon. But the -favourite dish forbidden by the consular authority was not altogether -abandoned: some faithful epicureans always possessed in the shade -well-furnished aviaries; and it was even then, we are assured, that Rome -and the universe were enriched with the _poularde_.[XVII-26] - -_Poularde à la Viminale._--Cook a fine hen in its gravy; pound and mix -benzoin, pepper, oil, and garum, a little thyme, fennel seed, cummin, -mint, and rue; stir for a long time; add some vinegar; pound some dates, -and mix them with honey and a little vinegar. Of all this make a -homogeneous seasoning, and pour it on the hen when it is cold.[XVII-27] - - -THE CHICKEN. - -It is certainly surprising that a people so serious as the Romans -generally were, should make the success of the greatest enterprise -depend on the appetite of their famous sacred chickens. They were -brought from the Island of Negropont, and were kept shut up in cages; -their guardian was designated by the name of Pullarius.[XVII-28] - -Publius Claudius, constrained to consult these strange prophets before -engaging in a naval combat, ordered them to be fed; they refused to open -their beaks. The incredulous general ordered them at once to be thrown -into the sea, and laughingly exclaimed to the dismayed Pullarius: “Since -they will not eat--well! then let us make them drink.”[XVII-29] - -Diodorus of Sicily, and some ancient writers, tell us that the -Egyptians, from a remote period, hatched chickens in ovens. This process -is decidedly of the highest antiquity, and was applied to the eggs of -all kinds of poultry.[XVII-30] In the last century, Réaumur tried -various experiments, and recovered this art, which was thought to have -been lost; others again have followed the steps of this skilful -observer, and, at the present day, obtain the most satisfactory results. - -Chickens have ever been considered an estimable food, and hardly yielded -to the two glories of their family--the fattened hen and the -capon.[XVII-31] The Greeks served them at all their feasts of ceremony, -and the Romans granted them a distinguished place among the dishes of -the second course. - -_Apician Macedonia of Chicken._--Chop small the meat of a chicken, which -mix with a kid’s breast, and put it into a saucepan with parsley seed, -dried pennyroyal, dried mint, ginger, green coriander, and raisins; then -add three pieces of the finest oaten bread, some honey, vinegar, oil, -and wine; some time after, add some excellent cheese, pine nuts, -cucumbers, and dried onions, well chopped. Pour some gravy over the -whole, and when it is cooked, surround the dish on all sides with snow, -and serve.[XVII-32] - -_Parthian Chicken._--Open the croup dexterously, and put it in the -saucepan; then mix some pepper, alisander, a little carrot, garum, and -wine; fill the chicken with this seasoning; cook well, and sprinkle with -pepper before serving.[XVII-33] - -_Numidian Chicken._--Begin by boiling a chicken for some time; then -place it in a stew-pan, after having sprinkled it with benzoin and -pepper. Afterwards bruise some pepper, cummin, coriander seed, benzoin -root, pine nuts, rue, and dates; add honey, vinegar, garum, and oil; -boil, thicken with fine flour, sprinkle with pepper, and serve.[XVII-34] - -_Chicken à la Frontonienne._--Half cook a chicken, and then put into the -saucepan garum, oil, a bunch of dill, some leeks, winter savory, and -green coriander. You then sprinkle with pepper, and serve.[XVII-35] - -_Chicken à la Cœlienne._--Cook a chicken with garum, oil, wine, -coriander seed, and onion. Then put some milk and a little salt into -another saucepan, with honey and a little water, and cook this mixture -over a very slow fire. Throw in by degrees some raspings of sweet -biscuits, and take care to stir continually. Put the chicken into this -sauce, and then serve with a seasoning of pepper, alisander, and wild -marjoram, mixed with honey and cooked vine, which must be boiled and -thickened with fine flour.[XVII-36] - - -THE DUCK. - -The duck swims so well it was thought to be paying a compliment to -Neptune by sacrificing it to him.[XVII-37] The god of the seas never -found fault with this offering. - -Attica and the whole of Greece sought the beautiful ducks of -Bœotia,[XVII-38] and that province was always found to have supplied -a larger number than it reared. It is true the poulterers of Athens, -banishing all scruples of conscience, rarely failed to satisfy their -customers as to the doubtful origin of a white _nêssa_ (duck), by taking -Neptune to witness that it was a pure Bœotian, a real duck, as they -said emphatically, of that species so much appreciated by connoisseurs. -Future _quidnuncs_ will examine whether the friendly duck of the English -and the political and literary _canard_ of the French have, or have not, -found their way from Greece, after wandering a little on the road. - -There were ducks at that prodigious dinner of the opulent Caranus, of -whom we have already spoken several times. They were always served at -the tables of the rich Greeks;[XVII-39] and Archigenes reckons them -among the viands which agree best with the stomach.[XVII-40] Cato was of -the same opinion; and, if we are to believe Plutarch, he made them the -food of those of his family who were ill, and boasted of maintaining his -children, servants, and himself in perfect health, by the aid of this -diet alone.[XVII-41] It was the same idea that made Mithridates mix the -flesh of ducks with all he ate, as an antidote against poison, which he -feared.[XVII-42] - -Hippocrates evinces a contrary opinion. The flesh of this bird seemed to -him hard, heavy, and indigestible.[XVII-43] Avicenna goes still further: -he threatens all who eat it with fever.[XVII-44] The Romans were no more -frightened than the Greeks at the decision of the father of medicine. -Lentulus, one of the high magiric authorities of Rome, ordered that the -duck should figure in the most honourable manner at the brilliant feast -of which Macrobius has preserved us an account.[XVII-45] It must, -however, be remembered that polite people, who observed the forms and -usages of society, only offered to their guests the breast and head of -this biped; the remainder returned to the kitchen.[XVII-46] - -_Ducks’ Brains à l’Epicurienne._--Cook some ducks’ brains, and mince -them very small; then place in a saucepan, with pepper, cummin, benzoin -root, garum, sweet wine, and oil; add milk and eggs, and submit the -whole to the action of a slow fire, or rather, cook them in a -_bain-marie_.[XVII-47] - -_Apicius’s Seasoning for a Roast Duck._--Make a mixture of pepper, -cummin, alisander, mint, stoned raisins, or Damascus plums; add a little -honey and myrtle wine; place it in a saucepan; cook, and then add to -these substances vinegar, garum, and oil; afterwards some parsley and -savory; serve with the roast duck.[XVII-48] - - -THE GOOSE. - -When a flock of geese are obliged to pass Mount Taurus--the dreaded -abode of their enemies, the eagles--each of them takes the precaution to -hold a stone in its beak, in order that he may keep a profound silence, -which, otherwise, his natural loquacity would render -impossible.[XVII-49] This, if true, would justify Aristotle in -attributing foresight to the goose;[XVII-50] a quality which Scaliger -also claims for this bird.[XVII-51] - -The ancients highly esteemed its flesh. Homer[XVII-52] and -Athenæus[XVII-53] speak with praise of the fat geese and goslings which -the Greeks ate. - -The Egyptians served them at their meals every day; it was, with veal, -the favourite dish of their monarchs,[XVII-54] and they did not forget -to offer some to King Agesilaus, when he was travelling through the -country.[XVII-55] - -Some eastern nations were impressed with such deep veneration for this -bird that they swore by nothing else.[XVII-56] The Britons honoured it, -and forbad all persons to do it the least harm.[XVII-57] It remained for -Queen Elizabeth to prove, at her joyous dinners of the 29th September, -that tastes and usages are modified by time.[XVII-58] And moreover, many -centuries before, her ancestors had been greatly wanting in respect -towards a particular kind of goose, which they roasted without any -ceremony.[XVII-59] A well-deserved sentiment of gratitude rendered them -dear to the Romans: their noisy clamour had formerly saved the -Capitol.[XVII-60] They became for them, as for the Egyptians,[XVII-61] a -symbol of safety, and were reared, both in town and country, to guard -the houses.[XVII-62] - -Those which were kept, out of gratitude, in the Capitol, were -consecrated to Juno, Isis, Mars, and Priapus,[XVII-63] and every year -one of them was chosen for the brilliant and solemn ceremony we have -already mentioned.[XVII-64] - -But, alas! time obscures and effaces all the glories of this world; and -that of the Roman geese, no doubt, had to submit to this sad -fate,[XVII-65] for they were eaten at least a century before the time of -Pliny. Unfortunate bird! Yes, a perfidious art fed them delicately in -the shade, in convenient aviaries, where nothing was wanting for their -comfort, and at the end of a few days the poor victims made but one step -from this dangerous retreat to the place of execution.[XVII-66] The -Emperor Alexander Severus became so fond of this dish, that on his great -festival days they served him with a goose and a pheasant.[XVII-67] -Nothing, in his estimation, could equal the exquisite flavour of these -two birds. - -The luxurious Romans, however, neglected the entire animal, and thought -only of the liver. They invented the art of fattening this viscera, and -of increasing its size to such an extent that it often weighed two -pounds. To obtain this result, they simply fed their victims of -sensuality, during twenty days, with a paste of dried figs and -water.[XVII-68] As soon as the goose was killed, the liver was put to -soak in milk and honey. - -It is not known exactly to whom we are to attribute this gastronomic -discovery. Scipio, Metellus, and Marcus Sejus disputed the glory of the -invention.[XVII-69] At all events, it is certain that the same method -was used in Greece as in Italy; that white geese were chosen in -preference,[XVII-70] and that the fat livers were served roasted, or -fried in the frying-pan, and enveloped in the _omentum_, a membrane -which we term the caul.[XVII-71] Pliny assures us that Apicius found -means to increase livers to a monstrous size,[XVII-72] which almost -equalled in weight the whole body of the animal.[XVII-73] - -The wings and neck of the goose also acquired some favour; the feet were -added, when Messalinus had taught how to peel them by passing them -rapidly over the fire, and then preparing them with cocks’ combs. The -remainder was only good for the common people.[XVII-74] - -Stuffed goslings also enjoyed a reputation among the Greeks,[XVII-75] -who fattened them by giving them, three times a day, during a month, a -mixture of bran and flour, moistened with hot water (two parts of flour -and four parts of bran); but, if Palladius is to be believed, it is much -better to feed them solely with millet, and as much water as they may -require.[XVII-76] - -_Sejus Seasoning._--Bruise pepper, alisander, coriander, mint, and rue; -mix with it garum and a little oil; pour it over the roast goose, and -serve.[XVII-77] - -_Apician Seasoning for a Roast Goose’s Liver._--Crush in a mortar, and -then well mix, pepper, carrots, cummin, parsley-seed, thyme, onions, -benzoin root, and fried pine nuts; add honey, vinegar, garum, and oil, -and serve with the roast liver in the omentum.[XVII-78] - -_Boiled Goose à la Gauloise._--Boil a goose with garum, oil, wine, a -bunch of leeks, coriander, and savory; then crush pepper and pine nuts, -to which put a little water. Then take the leeks, coriander, and savory -out of the saucepan; put in their place the mixture mentioned, add some -milk, boil it, thicken with whites of eggs, and serve.[XVII-79] - -In the sixteenth century they had dark cages, in which they fattened -poultry with ground tares, wheaten flour, and barley meal. Capons -fattened in hutches, where they could not turn, nor even stir, were -esteemed delicious. They fed pigeons on the crumb of bread, steeped in -wine; peacocks on the sediment from cider. - -On Michaelmas Day, the 29th of September, many persons in England eat -roast goose for their dinner. It is said that this custom dates from the -time of Queen Elizabeth, who was being served with a piece of goose on -Michaelmas Day, at the very moment when news was brought of the defeat -of the famous Armada. Some persons affirm that the Queen expressed a -desire that this dish might, each year, serve to perpetuate the -remembrance of so signal a victory. Would it not be more simple to -suppose that Elizabeth herself already conformed to a custom which had -existed before her time?[XVII-80] - -At Mans, instead of letting the poultry eat freely, they are shut up in -a dark place, and made to swallow pellets of about two inches long and -one thick, composed of two parts of barley flour, and one of maize, made -with sufficient quantity of milk. - -“In the time when the French had a decided taste for spices and -aromatics, they imagined to vary at will the flavour and perfume of the -flesh of fowls. With the paste used to fatten them was mixed musk, -anise-seed, and comfits, with other aromatic drugs. A Queen was known -to spend 1,500 francs (£60) in fattening three geese, whose livers she -wished to render more delicate.”--PARMENTIER. - - -THE PIGEON. - -The dove, a bird so dear to Venus,[XVII-81] served ambrosia to -Jupiter,[XVII-82] and became the interpreter of Dodona’s -oracles.[XVII-83] Several nations consecrated it to their gods.[XVII-84] -The Jews discovered in it the image of the sweetest virtues,[XVII-85] of -beauty, innocence, and purity;[XVII-86] and they sacrificed it to the -Almighty, as a burnt offering agreeable to His unspeakable -holiness.[XVII-87] - -This was because the dove or pigeon (begging pardon, here, for mixing -varieties) is to the hawk, according to an expression of a father of the -Church, what the lamb is to the wolf,[XVII-88]--a symbol of good by the -side of evil, or of a calm and peaceful conscience, as opposed to the -sad and agitated criminal. But, alas! the ancient prerogatives of this -tender bird, its candour and innocence, could not even preserve it from -the fate common to almost everything which breathes. Its delicate -flesh--fatal gift of Heaven!--recommended it to the epicure; not for its -poetical qualities, but for its delicate flavour; and, after many songs -of praise, it was condemned to be roasted. - -From the beginning of the heroic ages, pigeons were caught with snares -and nets,[XVII-89] in order to feed them, and be able to procure some at -once, if required to be served at a repast; for they formed a dainty -dish upon the tables of the most fastidious.[XVII-90] Of course they -figured in the joyous wedding feast of that opulent Caranus who -entertained his guests so sumptuously.[XVII-91] - -The Greeks, therefore, used to bring up an immense number of pigeons, -and built for them, in the most open situations, charming pigeon-houses, -in the form of small towers, models of elegance and cleanliness, where -those timid birds found at night a retreat, always fatal to some one -amongst them.[XVII-92] - -The Romans introduced in these sorts of edifices the most unusual -luxury.[XVII-93] Each kind of pigeon had a particular home[XVII-94]--a -foolish and expensive taste, which they continually attempted to -embellish. It was, however, a profitable speculation for those who knew -how to be satisfied with pigeon-houses of more simple appearance. A -brace of rather ordinary pigeons did not cost less than 16s.: the finest -were sold at £4 a pair. It is even known that L. Axius, a Roman knight, -demanded and obtained £6 8_s._ for two young pigeons intended for a -patrician’s table.[XVII-95] - -Physicians of that period greatly praised the flesh of these birds; they -recommended it to the sick and convalescent.[XVII-96] - -_Roast Pigeon, with Servilian Seasoning._--Bruise some dill seeds, dried -mint, and the root of benzoin; add some vinegar, dates, garum, a little -mustard, and oil; stir well; then mix with it some wine reduced to half, -and pour the whole on the roasted pigeon.[XVII-97] - - -THE GUINEA HEN. - -This bird, called by the ancients the “Hen of Numidia,” comes originally -from many burning regions of Africa. In Greece, and especially in Rome, -vanity alone gave it a price which was willingly granted, more on -account of its scarcity than for its taste.[XVII-98] The Guinea hen -appeared at great banquets, when the Amphytrion was more anxious to show -his opulence than to demonstrate the delicacy of his dishes. -Martial,[XVII-99] and Pliny,[XVII-100] the naturalist, raised great -objections against this ostentatious and useless rarity. - -_Guinea Hen à la Numide._--Cook it; then put it in a saucepan with some -honey and garum; make several incisions in the bird; baste it with its -own gravy, and sprinkle with pepper previously to its being -served.[XVII-101] - - -THE TURKEY HEN. - -“There must be two to eat a truffled turkey,” said a gastronomist of the -18th century, to one of his friends--a noted _gourmand_--who had just -come to pay him a visit. “Two!” replied the visitor, with a smile of -sensuality. “Yes, two,” answered the first; “I never do otherwise: for -instance, I have a turkey to-day, and of course we must be two.” The -friend, looking earnestly at the other, said: “You, and who else?” -“Why,” answered the gastronomist, “I and the turkey.” - -In Greece, more than one stomach would have been capable of challenging -nobly the voracity of this modern polyphagus: witness the insatiable -greediness of the well-known glutton who complained that nature ought to -have given him a neck as long as the stork, that he might enjoy for a -longer period his eating and drinking.[XVII-102] - -But for a long time the Greeks were quite ignorant of the culinary value -of the turkey; it was looked upon as an uncommon curiosity, and not -condemned to the spit. Sophocles, the first who spoke of it, pretended -that those marvellous birds came purposely from some distant climate -beyond the Indies, to bewail the death of Meleager, who took possession -of the throne of Macedonia (279 years B.C.), and who was soon driven -from it.[XVII-103] This Prince, it is reported, carried them away from -barbarous regions, that they might enjoy the charms of Greek -civilization; and hence could there be anything more natural than to -find those compassionate volatiles shedding tears for their benefactor, -in one of Sophocles’ tragedies? They have been called since, -Meleagrides, and this name perpetuated “misfortune, favour, and -gratitude.” - -Aristotle hardly supplies us with any details upon turkey hens: he -merely says that their eggs are distinguished by little specks from -those of the common hens, which are white;[XVII-104] but Clytus of -Miletus, his disciple, gives an exact description of them, by which no -mistake can be made.[XVII-105] - -Egypt also possessed some of these birds; but there they were still more -rare than in Greece, and formed one of the principal ornaments in the -triumphal pomp of Ptolemy Philadelphus, when he entered Alexandria. -Large cages, containing meleagrides, were carried before the monarch, -and on that day the people knew not which to admire most--the prince or -the turkey.[XVII-106] - -They were introduced into Rome about the year 115 before our era; but, -for a long time, they were objects of uncommon curiosity: and Varro, the -first of the Latins who speaks of them, confounds these birds with the -guinea hens, or hens of Numidia.[XVII-107] - -A century later, turkeys greatly multiplied, and vast numbers were -reared in the Roman farms. Caligula, who had the good sense to make his -own apotheosis during his life-time, through fear lest it might be -refused after his death, ordered a sacrifice of peacocks, guinea hens, -and turkeys to be made daily before his statue.[XVII-108] - -It appears, however, that the breed of turkeys soon began to diminish in -Europe; very few were reared, and that only as a curiosity: in the -citadel of Athens, towards the year 540 of the Christian era;[XVII-109] -and in 1510, two were exhibited in Rome, which belonged to the Cardinal -of Saint Clement.[XVII-110] Jacques Cœur brought some meleagrides -from India, in 1450; they were the first ever seen in France, and it was -not till fifty-four years afterwards that Americus Vespucius made them -known to the Portuguese. In our days these ancient inhabitants of Asia -or America[XVII-111] have become naturalized among us, and let us hope -that the day is yet distant when they will be absentees from our -farm-yards and our tables. We admire them less perhaps than Charles IX. -did when a turkey was served to him for the first time,[XVII-112] but we -shall always receive with cheerfulness the majestic dish upon which -appears a well-fed turkey, truffled, and smoking hot. - -_Turkey à l’Africaine._--Roast a turkey; bruise some pepper, alisander, -and benzoin; mix it with wine and garum. Pour this seasoning on the -turkey, sprinkle with pepper, and serve.[XVII-113] - -The historian of Provence, Bouche, will have it that the French are -indebted for the turkey to King René, who died in 1480. Other writers -assure us that this volatile was introduced during the reign of Francis -I. by Admiral Chabert. La-Bruyère-Champier speaks of it as a recent -acquisition, and Beckmann refutes those who date its existence in France -previous to the 16th century. He says that this bird, which was wild in -the forests of America, became domesticated in Europe. - -It is also said that we owe the importation of it to the Jesuits. -According to Hurtaut, it was not until about the time of Charles IX. -that turkeys appeared in France.[XVII-114] It is asserted, adds this -author, that at the wedding-dinner of that Prince the first turkey was -served, and that it was admired as a very extraordinary thing. The -English tasted this new dish in 1525, the fifteenth year of the reign of -Henry VIII. - -To fatten turkeys--every morning, for a month, give them mashed -potatoes, mixed with buck-wheat flour, Indian corn, barley, or beans; a -paste is made of it which they are left to eat as they please. Every -evening what remains must be taken away. One month after, you add to -this food, when they go to roost, half a dozen balls composed of barley -floor, which they are made to swallow for eight days successively; at -the end of that time turkeys, thus fed, become excessively fat, -delicious, and weigh from twenty to twenty-five pounds. - -In Provence, walnuts are given to them whole, which they are compelled -to swallow by slipping them one by one with the hand along the neck -until they have all past the œsophagus; they begin with one walnut, -and increase by degrees to forty. This kind of food gives an oily taste -to the flesh. - -Turkey eggs are good boiled, and are preferred to those of hens for -pastry; mixing them with the common eggs makes an omelette more -delicate. - -“To obtain all the advantages possible from turkeys, they must be killed -at the same time as pigs; then cut the turkeys in quarters, and put them -in earthen pots covered over with the fat of the pork, and by this means -they may be eaten all the year round.”--PARMENTIER. - - -THE PEACOCK. - -The peacock comes originally from India: it was there that Alexander the -Great saw it for the first time. He was so struck with its magnificent -plumage that he forbad all persons, under pain of death, to kill -any.[XVII-115] - -Oriental princes kept the peacocks which travellers brought them, from -time to time, in their aviaries.[XVII-116] It was thus[XVII-117] that a -certain king of Egypt received one, of which he thought Jupiter alone -worthy; wherefore he sent it in great pomp to the temple of that -god.[XVII-118] - -These birds were thus known over various parts of the world. Samos, -which seems to have been provided one of the first, ornamented its money -with their image.[XVII-119] Their reputation soon spread far and -wide;[XVII-120] and Athenian speculators sent to that island for -peacocks, which were shown to the curious once a month.[XVII-121] - -This variety became afterwards an article of commerce, and all wealthy -people became desirous to have them. A male and female cost £8 -sterling.[XVII-122] But what was that, when delighted eyes could -contemplate the charming and lovely colours of the haughty favourite of -Juno! - -At Rome, the peacock had a prodigious success.[XVII-123] When alive, -the Romans praised its beauty; when dead, it appeared on the tables of -its enthusiastic admirers. - -Quintus Hortensius, the orator, was the first who had them served in a -banquet given by him on the occasion of being created an -augur.[XVII-124] This gastronomic novelty made an extraordinary -sensation at Rome--as might be expected--and the peacock became so much -in fashion, that no banquet could possibly be given unless it was -embellished by its presence.[XVII-125] - -Marcus Aufidius Livio was the first to contrive a sure way to fatten -them;[XVII-126] and he succeeded so well that he made prodigious sums -every year by the sale of those birds.[J] - -Horace preferred them to the finest poultry,[XVII-127] and distinguished -amateurs thought that it was not paying much for a young peacock if they -could get it for two pounds and three shillings.[XVII-128] - -The ridiculous consumption which was made of these birds did not allow -of their becoming very common. Tiberius reared some in his gardens; and -he condemned to capital punishment a soldier of his guards who had the -misfortune to kill one.[XVII-129] - -Ultimately, more savoury or more rare dishes took the place of peacocks’ -flesh, which then began to be thought hard, unwholesome, and of -difficult digestion.[XVII-130] However, it re-appeared in the middle -ages at the nuptial festivities of the rich, where one of these birds -was served, as if alive, with the beak and claws gilded. To do that -well, it was necessary to skin the bird very carefully, and then cook it -with aromatics, such as cinnamon, cloves, &c. It was then covered with -its skin and feathers, and served without any appearance of having been -stripped. This luxury was to gratify the sight: nobody touched it. The -peacock was thus preserved for several years without being damaged--a -property believed to be peculiar to its flesh,[XVII-131] but which was -owing, no doubt, to the aromatics just mentioned. - -_Peacock of Samos._--Mix some pepper, alisander, parsley, dill flowers, -dried mint, and filberts, or fried almonds; bruise them with green -smallage[K] and pennyroyal, and mix the whole with wine, honey, vinegar, -and garum. Make incisions in the bird, and cover it with this -seasoning.[XVII-132] - - - - -XVIII. - -MILK, BUTTER, CHEESE, AND EGGS. - - -MILK. - -It would, probably, be impossible to trace the epoch at which man began -to make use of milk as food. Abraham presented some to the three angels -who appeared to him in the valley of Mamre;[XVIII-1] and it is likely, -that long before that patriarch, the eastern nations had recourse to an -aliment so easily acquired, and which their numerous flocks produced in -such abundance. - -Among the Jews, milk was always considered as an emblem of the wealth of -a country and the fertility of its soil; so much so, that the sacred -books almost invariably speak of a happy region, as one “flowing with -milk and honey.”[XVIII-2] This metaphorical expression testifies -sufficiently to the taste of the Hebrews for this aliment, which their -King Solomon recommended to them in these terms: “and thou shalt have -goat’s milk enough for thy food, for the food of thy household, and for -the maintenance of thy maidens.”[XVIII-3] - -Profane antiquity agrees on this point with our holy chroniclers. It -represents to us the first men, free from passions and fears, surrounded -by streams of milk and nectar, from which they drew health and -life.[XVIII-4] Happy time! ere milk-maids existed to practise those -deceptions they have now imbibed from the deceitful arts of chemistry. - -The greater part of the wandering tribes, such as the Getes and -Scythians, were galactophagists,[XVIII-5] or drinkers of milk;[XVIII-6] -the Gauls[XVIII-7] and Germans[XVIII-8] made it also their principal -food. In Greece and Italy, the shepherds decorated the vessels in which -they had just milked their flocks with crowns of flowers; and, in honour -of the rural divinities, they scattered about a small quantity of this -sweet liquid.[XVIII-9] The reapers offered it to Ceres;[XVIII-10] and in -one of the sections of Rome, Mercury was presented with milk instead of -wine. - -The ancients attributed to milk from cows, ewes, and goats, various -Hygeian qualities.[XVIII-11] Hippocrates forbade it in cases of -head-ache, fevers, and bilious attacks;[XVIII-12] but he sometimes -ordered asses’ milk,[XVIII-13] which was considered as an excellent -remedy, and a most wholesome aliment.[XVIII-14] - -The voluptuous people of Rome rubbed their faces and skins with bread -soaked in asses’ milk, to make them fairer and prevent the beard from -growing too fast. - -Suetonius[XVIII-15] and Martial[XVIII-16] speak of these refinements of -luxurious delicacies. The satirical Juvenal informs us that bread was -made into a kind of plaster or mask, with which they covered the -face.[XVIII-17] Poppæia, wife of Nero, was the first, or one of the -first, to bring this recipe into fashion, being fully persuaded that she -would thus preserve the whiteness and delicacy of her skin. Five hundred -asses used to supply daily the necessary quantity of milk to make the -cosmetic and bath[XVIII-18] of the coquettish empress. - -This high patronage did not prevent asses’ milk from losing by -degrees--and very unjustly, no doubt--the reputation it -acquired.[XVIII-19] - -Fashion--capricious and all-powerful deity--undertook to re-instate its -virtues, after several centuries of profound forgetfulness. The success -was complete. This is how the affair took place:-- - -Francis I., finding himself weak and languishing, the physicians, after -a long consultation on the monarch’s illness, advised remedies which did -not cure the royal patient. However, the King of France was getting -worse every day, and his state gave serious apprehensions. Some one -mentioning to his Majesty that a Jew of Constantinople was noted as one -of the cleverest doctors in the world, Francis immediately ordered his -ambassador in Turkey to send him this Israelitish doctor, whatever might -be the cost. The Jew arrived, and prescribed no other remedy than asses’ -milk. The king found himself much better, and the courtiers and ladies -of the court eagerly followed the same diet, even for the slightest -imaginary indisposition. - -A patient, cured by the use of this wholesome and restorative food, -thought of expressing his gratitude by the following stanza:-- - - “Par sa bonté, par sa substance - D’une ânesse le lait m’a rendu la santé; - Et je dois plus en cette circonstance, - Aux ânes qu’à la faculté.” - -_Macédoine Germanique of Milk._--Pound dry almonds, and put them into a -stewpan with the following ingredients:--the most delicate parts of -mallows only, and white-beet, some leeks, parsley, and other leguminous -herbs, previously cooked, a fowl boiled and minced small, the brains of -poultry or sucking pigs, also boiled, and lastly, some hard eggs cut in -two. Put all these together, as mentioned before; some little time after -that, add sausage meat, fowls’ livers, fresh cod fish, and oysters--the -whole reduced into pulp--some fresh cheese, pine nuts, and whole pepper. -Whilst this is boiling on a very slow fire, prepare the following -seasoning: pound some pepper, alisander, parsley seeds, and silphium; -stew separately with gravy; mix raw eggs with a great quantity of milk; -add it to the preceding seasoning; pour it over the contents of the -stewpan, then pepper, and serve.[XVIII-20] - - -BUTTER. - -A learned writer[XVIII-21] has maintained that the ancient inhabitants -of the east did not know of butter, and that by this word must be -understood, when it occurs in the holy writings, _sour milk_ or _cream_. -Whatever may be the respect due to the grave authority of Beckmann, we -beg leave to adhere to the opinion of various translators of the Bible, -and believe with them that the Jews knew how to prepare butter. -Independently of the signification of _chemack_, to which a profound -philosopher gives the same sense,[XVIII-22] and which appears very -naturally to offer this acceptation, we could still fortify our opinion -by the passage where Job, recalling with sorrow the happy days of his -youth, says, that he used to wash his “feet in butter.”[XVIII-23] We -agree that these words are understood in a figurative sense, and that -the man of God wished to show by it that he was the possessor of a great -number of flocks. - -But it is nevertheless true, that this metaphorical locution recalls -also one of the uses made of that fat substance, which was for a long -while employed, like oil, to soften and refresh the limbs. - -Indulgent reader, excuse this episode upon a ground which we ought not -to touch, and let us re-enter the kitchen. - -The Greeks, who understood many things, and knew them so well, passed -over several centuries without once thinking that the milk of their ewes -and cows contained a food already well-known by several barbarous -nations. Aristotle mentions the serous part of milk, and -cheese;[XVIII-24] but he hardly suspects the existence of butter, which -he describes but very imperfectly as a liquid oil.[XVIII-25] Antecedent -to him, Hippocrates never thought of it, except as a foreign remedy -which Asia supplied to Greece.[XVIII-26] - -It was only fifty years after Aristotle that it began to be noticed as -an aliment. The Greeks, in imitation of the Parthians and Scythians, who -used to send it to them, had it served upon their tables, and called it -at first “oil of milk,”[XVIII-27] and later, _bouturos_, “cow cheese,” -probably on account of the quantity made from the milk of that -animal.[XVIII-28] - -The Germans, according to Beckmann, taught the Romans how to make -butter, but they never employed it otherwise than as a remedy in Italy. - -It is certain that in the time of Pliny it had hardly been heard of at -Rome,[XVIII-29] and that, according to this writer, the barbarians -only--that is to say, those who were unfortunate enough not to be either -Greeks or Romans--made their food of it.[XVIII-30] Towards the year 175 -of the Christian era, Galen then placed butter only among the -therapeutic agents useful in medicine.[XVIII-31] However, more than a -century before him, Dioscorides wished it to be noticed that fresh -butter made of ewes’ or goats’ milk was served at meals instead of oil, -and that it took the place of fat in making pastry.[XVIII-32] - -Herodotus has preserved some interesting details on the manipulation of -butter among the Scythians. They received the milk in large pails, and -beat it for a long time to separate the most delicate part, and -appointed for this labour those enemies whom the fortune of war -delivered into their hands. These unhappy creatures were deprived of -sight, which prevented their escape.[XVIII-33] - -The Romans set about making butter as we do. Pliny says: “Butter is made -from milk, and this aliment, so much sought after by barbarous nations, -distinguished the rich from the common people. It is obtained -principally from cows’ milk; that from ewes is the fattest. Goats also -supply some. It is produced by agitating the milk in long vessels with a -narrow opening. A little water is added.”[XVIII-34] - -Formerly it was required in many countries that the dealer in this -article should sell good butter to his customers. In France, for -instance, intolerance was carried so far as to forbid “all persons to -re-scrape, beat, or work up any butter, either fresh or salted; change, -mix, or mingle it, under _pain of being whipped_.”[XVIII-35] Since then -the strangeness of such a measure has become palpable, the more so as -modern good faith and honesty render it more useless than ever. - -During the early ages of the Church, butter was burned in the lamps -instead of oil. This practice is still continued in Abyssinia.[XVIII-36] - -The cathedral of Rouen has a tower, called the “Butter Tower.” It -acquired this name from the fact that George d’Amboise, who was -archbishop of that city in 1500, seeing that oil was scarce in his -diocese during Lent, authorised the use of butter, on condition that -each diocesan should pay _six deniers Tournois_ (about a farthing) for -the permission. The money obtained by these means served to construct -the “Butter Tower.”[XVIII-37] - -To obtain butter instantly it is only necessary, in summer, to put new -milk into bottles some hours after it has been taken from the cow, and -shake it briskly. The clots which form, thrown into a sieve, washed and -pressed together, constitute the finest and most delicate butter that -can possibly be made. - -One of the great means of preserving butter fresh for any length of time -is, first to press all the buttermilk completely out, then to keep it -under water (renewing the water frequently), and to abstract it from the -influence of heat and air by wrapping it in a wet cloth. - -When butter has become very rancid, it is melted several times by a -moderate heat, with or without the addition of water, and, as soon as it -has been malaxated, after the cooling, in order to extract any water it -may have retained, it is put into brown freestone pots, sheltered from -the contact of the air. Frequently, when it is melted, a piece of -toasted bread is put into it, which acts in the same manner as charcoal; -that is to say, it attenuates the rancidity.[XVIII-38] - - -CHEESE. - -A demi-god, Aristæus, the son of Apollo, and King of Arcadia, invented -cheese,[XVIII-39] and the whole of Greece welcomed with gratitude this -royal and almost divine present. Sober individuals willingly ate some at -their meals;[XVIII-40] gluttons perceived that it sharpened the -appetite; and great drinkers that it provoked copious libations. Thus -the aged Nestor, wise as he was, brought wine to Machaon, who had just -been wounded in the right arm, and did not fail to add to it goat cheese -and an onion, to force him to drink more.[XVIII-41] - -This food was also well known to the Hebrews, and the holy writings -sometimes mention it.[XVIII-42] - -Mare’s milk, or that of the ass, makes an excellent cheese, but much -inferior to that procured from the camel, for which an epicure could not -pay too dearly. Cow-milk cheese, although more fat and unctuous, was -only considered as third-rate.[XVIII-43] - -The Phrygians made exquisite cheese by artistically mixing the milk of -asses and mares. The Scythians only employed the former; the Greeks -imitated them.[XVIII-44] The Sicilians also mixed the milk of goats and -ewes.[XVIII-45] - -The Romans smoked their cheeses, to give them a sharp taste; they -possessed public places expressly for this use, and subject to police -regulations which no one could evade.[XVIII-46] - -In the time of Pliny, little goat cheeses, which were much esteemed, -were sent every morning to the market for the sale of dainties, from the -environs of Rome.[XVIII-47] With the addition of a little bread, they -formed the breakfast of sober and delicate persons. Asia Minor, Tuscany, -the Alps, Gaul, and Nîmes especially, furnished very good ones for the -tables of the Romans,[XVIII-48] who sought in preference certain sweet -and soft qualities. The greater part of barbarous nations esteemed only -the strong cheese.[XVIII-49] - -The Hebrews, Greeks, and Romans, always kept some of these last for the -provision of their armies, and it was among them a military -aliment.[XVIII-50] The Athenians fed their wrestlers with it,[XVIII-51] -and it was the sole treat of the shepherds of Italy.[XVIII-52] - -The lower classes and country people prepared with cheese and various -salted substances a dish they thought most relishing, and which -epicureans only mentioned with horror. This was called _tyrotarichus_, -and Cicero often employs this word to designate a frugal style of -cookery.[XVIII-53] - -Besides those countries celebrated for the goodness of cheeses already -mentioned, there is Tromelia, in Achaia,[XVIII-54] and the Island of -Cythnus, where they represented their cheeses on their money, an -ingenious manner of making them known, which succeeded wonderfully well; -and lastly, Salonia, a city of Bithynia, renowned for its rich pastures, -where numerous herds of cows were kept, and whose milk furnished an -exquisite kind known by the name of Salonite cheese.[XVIII-55] It -appears to have been often served to the Emperor Augustus, who ate it -with brown bread, little fish, and fresh figs.[XVIII-56] - -The art of giving a relish to the cheese, by mixing with it odoriferous -herbs, is said to be more than nine hundred years old. This operation -was designated _persiller_, showing that originally parsley was -introduced.[XVIII-57] We cannot say whether the Romans made use of this -plant to give a pungency to their cheese, but it is certain that they -often mixed some herbs with it.[XVIII-58] Thus Columella informs us that -sometimes the leaves and small branches of the fig tree were used to -communicate an agreeable flavour.[XVIII-59] The same writer has -transmitted to us a very simple process, much in use in his time, for -preserving cheese. They first covered it with brine, and then dried it -in a thick smoke obtained from straw or green wood.[XVIII-60] - -The following are some of the dishes of which cheese served as the -basis:-- - -_Salad of Cheese à la Bithynienne._--Cut some slices of excellent bread; -leave them for some time in vinegar and water; then make a mixture of -this bread with pepper, mint, garlic, and green coriander; throw on it a -good quantity of cow’s cheese salted; add water, oil, and -wine.[XVIII-61] - -_Dish of Tromelian Cheese._--Take fresh cheese; mix it well with pepper, -alisander, dried mint, pine nuts, sun raisins, and dates; then add -honey, vinegar, and afterwards, garum, oil, wine, and cooked -wine.[XVIII-62] - -The celebrated cheese of Rouergue, known under the name of “Roquefort -cheese,” was made, in the 17th century as follows--we cite from -Marcorelle:-- - -“The curd employed is made from sheep’s milk, mixed with a little goat’s -milk. It is broken as small as possible. When it is taken from the -moulds, it is bound with a linen band and taken to the drying room; then -to the caves, where it is rubbed with salt on the two flat sides of the -surface. The downy substance which subsequently covers the crust is -frequently scraped off; after which, it is left to ripen on tablets -exposed to currents of air which proceed from the interstices of the -rocks in which the caves are formed.” - -Besides salt, employed as a seasoning and condiment for cheeses, they -contain in their composition different substances which give rise to an -infinite variety of odours, taste, and colour. In the Vosges, for -example, they mix with the cheese of Gerardmer seeds of plants belonging -to the family of umbellifers; in the country of Limburg, they -incorporate chopped parsley, scallions, and tarragon; the Italians make -use of saffron to colour the Parmesan cheese, and the English of roucou -for the Cheshire cheese. Others are in the habit of cutting away a -portion of the middle of the cheese, and filling the cavity with Malaga -or Canary wine.[XVIII-63] - - -EGGS. - -Orpheus, Pythagoras, and their sectators--good and humane people as ever -lived--unceasingly recommended in their discourses to abstain from eggs, -in order not to destroy a germ which nature had destined for the -production of chicken.[XVIII-64] Many allowed themselves to be -persuaded, and would have believed it an unpardonable crime if they had -eaten a tiny _omelette_, or boiled eggs. - -Many of the most learned philosophers held eggs in a kind of respect -approaching to veneration, because they saw in them the emblem of the -world and the four elements. The shell, they said, represented the -earth; the white, water; the yolk, fire; and air was found under the -shell.[XVIII-65] - -In India and Syria, there was less scruple about swallowing a few eggs; -but the hens were devoutly worshipped, because the world is indebted to -them for chickens.[XVIII-66] - -The Greeks and Romans, although more reasonable, felt, however, for -eggs a trifling weakness not exempt from superstition. They already made -use of them in their sacrifices, and carried them with great pomp in the -festivals of Ceres.[XVIII-67] For them it was also a symbol of the -universe, and an expiation would not have been complete if some eggs had -not been broken on the altar of the irritated gods.[XVIII-68] - -Magicians and sorcerers, who abounded in Rome, established singular -fables with regard to eggs. Livia, the happy consort of Nero, being -_enceinte_, consulted a sorceress, who said to her, “warm in your bosom -a new laid egg until hatched; if a male chicken comes forth, thank the -gods, who will grant you a son.” The empress followed this advice; a -cock chick came, and the princess gave birth to Tiberius.[XVIII-69] This -anecdote circulated in Rome, and all ladies in the same interesting -situation, imitating Livia, amused themselves with hatching chickens. - -It appears that the egg played also a most important part in dreams. A -man having dreamed that he had eaten one, went to consult a soothsayer, -who told him that the white signified he would soon have silver, and the -yolk that he would receive gold. The fortunate dreamer really received -very soon afterwards a legacy partly consisting of those two precious -metals. He hastened to thank the diviner, and offered him a piece of -silver. “This is very well for the white,” said the latter, “but is -there nought for the yolk?”[XVIII-70] It is not known whether the heir -was generous enough to understand this _bon mot_. - -All these pagan follies are to be accounted for by the doctrine of the -poet Orpheus, who first taught the Greeks that a primitive egg had -produced all other beings;[XVIII-71] a very ancient idea, no doubt, -transmitted to them by the Egyptians, who, as well as the Phœnicians, -Persians, and Chaldeans, represented the world by that symbol. - -It is now time to describe eggs as an aliment. - -The shepherds of Egypt had a singular manner of cooking them without the -aid of fire: they placed them in a sling, which they turned so rapidly -that the friction of the air heated them to the exact point required for -use.[XVIII-72] - -In Rome and in Greece, new-laid eggs were served at the beginning of a -repast;[XVIII-73] and the Roman gourmets asserted that, to maintain -oneself in health, “it was necessary to remain at table from the egg to -the apple.”[XVIII-74] We have adopted the half of that proverb, and we -say every day, this story must be taken up _ab ovo_. - -The Romans did not confine themselves to hens’ eggs, of which they -preferred the long ones;[XVIII-75] they sought those of the partridge -and pheasant, which Galen considered the most delicate.[XVIII-76] They -also thought much of peacocks’ eggs. It was Quintus Hortensius who set -the example of this luxury,[XVIII-77] which, however, was discarded by -degrees when the precious fecundity of the hens of Adria began to be -appreciated.[XVIII-78] - -The ancients appear to have been very partial to soft-boiled eggs, which -may be sucked at once. Nicomachus mentions them: “My father,” says he, -“had left me a poor little estate; in a few months I made it as round as -an egg; then, breaking the shell, I made but one gulp of it.”[XVIII-79] - -At Rome, this aliment was prepared in twenty different manners; they -pickled it,[XVIII-80] cooked it in water, on hot ashes, on charcoal, and -in the fryingpan. Eggs eaten in the shell, however, were thought the -most wholesome.[XVIII-81] - -_Eggs à la Romaine._--Cook some eggs; cut them, and throw over a -seasoning composed in the following manner. Bruise some pepper, -alisander, coriander, and rue, to which add garum, honey, and a little -oil.[XVIII-82] - -_Hard Eggs à l’Athénienne._--Cut each egg in four, and sprinkle over -garum, oil, and wine.[XVIII-83] - -_Fried Eggs à l’Epænète._--Fry some eggs; place them in a dish, and -season with a mixture of pepper, alisander, pine nuts, garum, benzoin, -and pepper.[XVIII-84] - -_Egyptian Egg Pudding._--Take the yolks of a good number of hard eggs; -reduce them to a paste with crushed pine nuts, an onion, a leek, some -gravy, and pepper; add a little wine and garum. Stuff an intestine with -this pulp, and cook.[XVIII-85] - -_Dish of Eggs à la Macédonienne._--Put in a mortar some pepper, mint, -parsley, pennyroyal, cheese, and pine nuts; when this is well crushed, -add honey, vinegar, fresh water, and garum; then a large number of yolks -of eggs; mix well with the rest; throw the whole into a saucepan; add -bread soaked in vinegar and water,--which, however, must be well -squeezed out--with fresh cow’s-milk cheese, cucumbers, almonds, chopped -onions, fowls’ livers, and garum.[XVIII-86] - -_Lesbian Eggs aux Roses._--Pluck the leaves of some roses; take only the -whitest part, and put them into a mortar with garum. Stir a long time; -add half a small glass of gravy; stir and strain; put into this liquor -the brains of four fowls and eight scruples of ground pepper; stir a -long time; add to it eight eggs, half a small glass of wine, and as -much cooked wine, and, lastly, a little oil. Grease well the inside of a -dish, pour the whole into it, and place it over a very slow charcoal -fire. Cook, sprinkle with pepper, and serve.[XVIII-87] - -It was a custom, common to every agricultural population throughout -Europe and Asia, to celebrate the new year by eating eggs; and they -formed a part of the presents made on that day. Care was taken to dye -them different colours, particularly red--the favourite colour of the -ancients, and of the Celts in particular.[XVIII-88] - -It appears that, formerly, people consumed an astonishing number of eggs -in England on Easter Sunday. We find the following article in an account -of expenses for the king’s household (Edward I.) on the occasion of this -festival:-- - -“For four hundred and a half of eggs, eighteen pence.”[XVIII-89] At that -epoch eggs were not so dear in England as they are now; nor did kings -fail to eat more of them. - -In 1533, a bishop of Paris, authorised by a bull from the Pope, Julius -III., being disposed to permit the use of eggs during Lent, the -parliament took offence, and prevented the execution of the episcopal -mandate. It is this severe abstinence from eggs during Lent which gave -rise to the custom of having a great number of them blessed on Easter -eve, to be distributed among friends on Easter Sunday; whence comes the -expression, “to give Easter eggs.” Pyramids of them were carried into -the king’s cabinet after the high mass. They were gilded, or admirably -painted, and the prince made presents of them to his -courtiers.[XVIII-90] - - - - -XIX. - -HUNTING. - - -From the first ages of the world man has passionately loved the exercise -of hunting; the dangers he then encountered inflamed his courage. It was -glorious to struggle with the terrible inhabitants of the forest or the -desert; to conquer them; to bring home their bleeding spoils; to furnish -an heroic name for the songs of poets, and the admiration of posterity. - -The sacred writings have handed down to us the name of the first mighty -hunter before the Lord;[XIX-1] they inform us that Ishmael, in the -solitude of Arabia, became skilful in drawing the bow;[XIX-2] and that -David, when yet young, dared to fight with lions and bears.[XIX-3] - -Fable, that veiled light of truth, through which it sometimes glimmers, -caused Hercules to be ranked with the gods when he had overthrown the -lion of Nemæa, the hydra of Lerna, and the wild boar of -Erymanthus.[XIX-4] - -Diana descended to the earth, and pursued in the forests the timid -stag.[XIX-5] The Greeks raised altars to her, and the centaur Chiron -learned of her the noble art of venery, which he, in his turn, taught to -illustrious disciples, among whom are mentioned Æsculapius, Nestor, -Theseus, Ulysses, and Achilles.[XIX-6] - -Pollux trained the first hunting dogs, and Castor accustomed horses to -follow the track of wild beasts.[XIX-7] From that time, heroes, when -resting from real conquests, sought diversion in games nearly as -formidable, and imitative of their combats, which often placed their -lives in danger. Ulysses, for example, always bore the scar of a wound -inflicted by a wild boar.[XIX-8] - -The most grave philosophers, and the most illustrious poets have -bestowed praises on the chase. - -Aristotle advised young men to apply themselves to it early.[XIX-9] -Plato finds in it something divine,[XIX-10] Horace looks upon it as -healthful exercise, strengthening to the body, and preparing the way for -glory;[XIX-11] and indeed, this heroic and royal exercise[XIX-12] always -possessed irresistible attraction for the greatest men of antiquity. - -The warriors of Homer,[XIX-13] Pelopidas,[XIX-14] Alexander of -Macedon,[XIX-15] Philopœmen,[XIX-16] seemed to derive from it fresh -warlike ardour. - -The ancients hunted in the open country, in forests, and in parks. -Mounted on fiery steeds, armed with javelins and long cutlasses, or with -swords and lances,[XIX-17] they excited their indefatigable hounds, and -promised to consecrate to Diana the stag’s horns, or the tusks of the -boar,[XIX-18] which might become their prey. - -The Greeks and Romans reared hunting dogs with extreme care, and they -began to make use of them from the age of eight or ten months.[XIX-19] -These animals had names, short, sonorous, and easy to be pronounced, -such as Lance, Flower, Blade, Strength, Ardent, &c.[XIX-20] - -The strongest and most courageous came from England and -Scotland;[XIX-21] Crete, Tuscany, and Umbria were the nurseries of the -most expert.[XIX-22] The Gallic dogs surpassed all others by their -agility and astonishing swiftness.[XIX-23] - -Females were generally preferred to the males,[XIX-24] either because -they were more docile, or pursued the game with more ardour and -persistence. It may be as well to remark, too, in this place, that the -Greeks thought much more of mares than of horses for chariot -racing.[XIX-25] - -The dogs were always chained. Their liberty was only given them at the -moment of starting for the chase.[XIX-26] Their fire and ferocity were -then incredible. They dashed off with fury, and when they succeeded in -coming up with their prey, some would suffer their legs to be cut off -rather than loose their hold. The Indian dogs, trained for lion hunting, -often gave this proof of obstinate and implacable rage.[XIX-27] - -The ancients also took game by means of pits covered over with -brushwood, in snares,[XIX-28] with traps,[XIX-29] and with nets;[XIX-30] -moreover, they often made use of bows and arrows, and understood the art -of training falcons and hawks.[XIX-31] - -Eastern princes amused themselves by hunting in parks where a great -number of wild beasts were kept.[XIX-32] The Romans had too much taste -and money, and too great a desire to spend it, not to imitate this -expensive and royal luxury. Fulvius Hirpinus possessed a park of forty -acres near Viterbo, in Tuscany. Lucius Lucullus, and Quintus Hortensius -hastened to create more beautiful ones, and they did not fail to have a -host of imitators.[XIX-33] - -By the Roman law, hunting was unrestricted:[XIX-34] only, no person -could pursue game on another’s land without the owner’s -permission.[XIX-35] - -Besides the pleasure which this amusement afforded, the ancients, like -ourselves, discovered profit in it; and the produce of their chase -became one of the finest ornaments of their feasts. Isaac ordered his -son Esau to go out with his weapons, his quiver and bow, and to prepare -for him savoury meat, such as he loved (venison).[XIX-36] Solomon had -stags, roebucks, and wild oxen served on his table every day.[XIX-37] - -Cyrus, King of Persia, ordered that venison should never be wanting at -his repasts.[XIX-38] Is it necessary to add that it was the delight of -two nations the most gastronomic in the world?--of the effeminate -Greeks, and more especially those Romans for whom the animals of the -earth, ocean, and air were only to be valued in proportion to the -impossibility of obtaining them in Europe, Asia, and Africa; an immense -inheritance, conquered by noble ancestors, and which their degenerated -sons ransacked for their satisfaction and insatiable gluttony.[XIX-39] - -The English have always loved hunting--the favourite pastime of their -kings. - -Alfred the Great was not twelve years old when he had acquired the -reputation of being a skilful and indefatigable hunter.[XIX-40] - -The noble and the wealthy differed from the serfs by their singular -taste for this royal diversion; and, in their pursuit of it, they spared -neither pains nor expense in procuring those famous dogs of pure race -which the ancient Greeks and Romans prized so highly. When Athelstan, -Alfred’s grandson, had subdued Constantine King of Wales, he imposed an -annual tribute. The vanquished monarch had to give him gold, silver, -cattle, and, which is remarkable, a certain number of hawks, and dogs -possessing a quick scent, and capable of unkenneling wild -beasts.[XIX-41] Edgar, the successor of Athelstan, changed the tribute -of money into an annual tribute of three hundred wolves’ skins.[XIX-42] - -Notwithstanding his great piety, and the extreme reserve of his habits, -Edward the Confessor took great delight in following the hounds, and -exciting their ardour by his cries.[XIX-43] - -King Harold never appeared anywhere without his favourite hawk on his -hand; neither was the approach of the British Nimrod announced otherwise -than by the joyous barking of the royal pack.[XIX-44] Indeed, at that -epoch, every person of distinction took the prince as his model, and -gave himself up, heart and soul, to what people are pleased to call “the -noble exercise of hunting.” - -This aristocratic taste became so extremely prevalent under the -domination of the Norman kings, that a writer of the twelfth century has -judged it with great severity. “In our time,” he says, “hunting is -considered as the most honourable occupation, the most excellent virtue. -Our nobility show more solicitude, sacrifice more money, and make a -greater parade in favour of it, than they would if the question were -war. They are more furious in the pursuit of wild beasts, than they -would be if they had to conquer the enemies of Great Britain. As a -necessary consequence, they no longer retain any sentiment of humanity; -they have descended almost to the level of the savage animals they are -in the daily habit of tracking and unkenneling.”[XIX-45] - -These uncomplimentary observations of John of Salisbury did not prevent -James I. from pursuing the cherished diversion of his predecessors. That -prince being one day at the hunt in the environs of Bury St. Edmunds, -remarked, among the persons composing his suite, an opulent citizen -magnificently dressed, whose rich costume eclipsed that of the lords the -most renowned at court for the elegance of their attire. The king asked -who the hunter was. Some one replied that it was Lamb. “Lamb, say you?” -rejoined the king, laughing; “I don’t know what sort of a lamb that may -be; but what I know well is, that he has got a superb fleece on his -back.”[XIX-46] - - -THE STAG. - -Roman ladies of the highest distinction, arrived at that age when, in -making an estimate of life, it is found that the largest portion belongs -to the past--these ladies, we say, failed not to have the flesh of this -animal served on their tables, and to eat as much of it as possible. -Perchance it had but a slight attraction for the worthy matrons, and yet -they preferred it to every other, for this reason, that the stag being -free from maladies and infirmities--at least so it was -thought--prolongs its existence far beyond the bounds which nature has -assigned to other beings.[XIX-47] The noble patrician ladies would not -have been sorry to survive their great-grandchildren, and they took the -means which appeared to them most likely to ensure longevity.[XIX-48] - -If the celebrated Galen had lived in their time, he would have told -those credulous Roman ladies, that this kind of food could not fail to -be hurtful to them; that this indigestible and heating meat is more -likely to provoke disease than to destroy its germ; and that, -consequently, death finds in it an auxiliary rather than an -enemy.[XIX-49] - -True, the oracle of Pergama wrote nearly all this a century later, and -yet his medical authority was powerless to persuade, although it may -have convinced the obstinate epicureans of his period. - -In point of fact, whatever Galen may say, what dreadful accidents can a -piece of stag properly cooked produce? Moses, so attentive to the health -of his people, allows them the use of it;[XIX-50] Solomon, the wisest of -men, ate it every day.[XIX-51] Do we find that the Jewish monarch and -his people were any the worse for preferring this food? - -At Athens, at Rome, and in all Italy, whoever possessed the intelligence -of appreciating good cheer, took care to offer to his friends the -shoulder or fillet of stag.[XIX-52] Nevertheless, gastronomists by -profession, who so generously devoted their fortunes to the service of -the culinary art, abandoned the whole animal to their slaves, and only -reserved for themselves the most tender shoots of the horns. These were -for a long time boiled, then cut into very small pieces, and this -strange dish, seasoned with a mixture of pepper, cummin, savory, rue, -parsley, bay leaves, fat, and pine nuts, sprinkled with vinegar, and -fried, passed for an exquisite and dainty treat, worthy of the most -flattering praises.[XIX-53] - -_Quarter of Stag, roast à la Neméenne._--Put into a saucepan pepper, -alisander, carrots, wild marjoram, parsley seed, benzoin root, and -fennel seed; add garum, wine, cooked wine, and a little oil. Boil over a -slow fire, thicken with fine flour, pour on the roast stag, and -serve.[XIX-54] - -_Shoulder of Stag à l’Hortensius._--Cook in a saucepan carrots, -alisander, with pepper and parsley seed. Add honey, garum, vinegar, and -luke-warm oil; thicken with fine flour, and pour this sauce on the -shoulder of stag when roasted.[XIX-55] - -_Fillet of Stag à la Persane._--Roast it, and at the moment of placing -it on the table, cover it with a seasoning of pepper, alisander, -scallions, wild marjoram, onions, and pine nuts, previously mixed with -honey, garum, mustard, vinegar, and oil.[XIX-56] - - -THE ROEBUCK. - -The flesh of the roebuck, according to Galen, has none of the bad -qualities which he attributes to that of the stag.[XIX-57] Esculapius -and Comus for this once agreed--which very seldom happened--in praising -the beneficial properties and the delicious odour of these timid -quadrupeds. - -The Greeks thought much of the roebuck; they obtained the best from the -island of Melos,[XIX-58] and served them at their most sumptuous -repasts.[XIX-59] They were, perhaps, more rarely seen on Roman tables. - -_Roebuck with Spikenard._--Pound, in a mortar, pepper, parsley seed, dry -onion, and green rue; add spikenard, and then honey, vinegar, garum, -dates, cooked wine, and oil; mix well the whole, and cover the roast -with it.[XIX-60] - -_Roebuck aux Prunes._--Mix pepper, alisander, and parsley, after having -pounded them. Add to this a good quantity of Damascus plums, which you -have soaked in hot water. Then add honey, wine, vinegar, garum, and a -little oil; and, lastly, leeks and savory. Serve the roebuck with this -sauce.[XIX-61] - -_Roebuck aux Amandes de Pin._--Bruise pepper, alisander, parsley, and -cummin; mix with it a great quantity of fried pine nuts; and add honey, -vinegar, wine, a little oil, and garum. Pour it over the -roebuck.[XIX-62] - - -THE DEER. - -Little need be said with regard to this charming animal, whose slender -and graceful form was the admiration of those who visited the parks of -Lucullus and Hirpinus. Its flesh was thought to be less wholesome than -that of the roebuck, because it was found to be less succulent.[XIX-63] -Apicius has consecrated to it four culinary recipes, all very similar. - -_Deer à la Marcellus._--Put into a saucepan pepper, gravy, rue, and -onions; add honey, garum, cooked wine, and a little oil. Boil very -slowly, thicken with flour, and pour the whole on the deer when -roasted.[XIX-64] - - -THE WILD BOAR. - -It was in the year 63 before the Christian era: the consul Marcus -Tullius Cicero had just accused and convicted Catilina, and Rome, free -from present danger, had forgotten all transitory solicitudes of the -past to welcome joyous banquetings. - -A worthy citizen, excellent patriot, distinguished gastronomist, and -possessor of an immense fortune, of which he made the best use (at least -so said several choice epicures, his habitual guests), Survilius -Rullus--such was his name--thought of celebrating by an extraordinary -banquet the triumph of the illustrious consul, and the deliverance of -the country. His cook, a young Sicilian slave of the greatest promise, -and whose mode of cooking a dish of sows’ paps procured him one day a -smile of approbation from Lucullus, succeeded especially in those -eminent performances which command the admiration of the guests, and -give new strength to their exhausted appetites. - -Rullus sent for him, and spoke thus: “Recollect that in three days -Cicero will sup here: let the feast be worthy of him who gives it.” - -The Sicilian even surpassed himself. As soon as the guests had tasted -the enticing delicacies of the first course, the hall echoed with an -unanimous concert of applause, and the proud Amphitryon, intoxicated -with joy, was going to ask that a crown might be presented to his -beloved slave,[XIX-65] when the cook appeared, followed by four -Ethiopians, who gracefully carried a silver vase of prodigious -dimensions, in the shape of a large mortar. This extraordinary dish -contained a wild boar; baskets of dates were suspended to his tusks, and -charming little wild boars, in exquisite pastry, no doubt--for never was -there a more tempting culinary exhalation--artistically surrounded the -enormous animal.[XIX-66] Every voice was hushed; the guests waited in -silence the most profound.[XIX-67] The tables of the second service -were placed round the guests, who raised themselves on the couches with -greedy curiosity. The blacks deposited the precious burden before -another domestic, a skilful carver, who opened the wild boar with -incredible dexterity and precision, and presented to the astonished eyes -of Rullus and his friends a second entire animal, and in this a third; -then came fresh delicacies, all gradually diminishing in size, until, at -length, a delicious little figpecker terminated this series of strange -viands, of which Rome, wondering and astonished, long preserved the -gastronomic remembrance.[XIX-68] - -Man seldom prescribes to himself reasonable limits in the vast field of -vanity and ostentation. At first it was thought an enviable boldness to -have dared to serve an entire boar of a large size. Every one did the -same thing, and at length it became quite common. It was necessary then -to do better. One thought of having three at the same time; another had -four; and soon the extravagant--and they were not few--caused eight wild -boars _à la Troyenne_ to appear at a single repast.[XIX-69] The -Macedonian, Caranus, a man of spirit and of merit, placed himself at -once on an eminence which baffled rivalry. He invited twenty guests to -his wedding, and he had twenty wild boars served.[XIX-70] - -It must be confessed that such magnificence rather resembles folly; but, -alas! has not every nation its failings? Besides, the flesh of the wild -boar enjoyed an astonishing reputation in Rome and Greece,[XIX-71] and -no one could, with credit to himself, receive his friends at his table -without presenting them with the fashionable dish,--the animal appointed -by nature to appear at banquets.[XIX-72] - -At length, however, they began to tire of this enormous dish; they -divided it into three portions, and the middle piece obtained the -preference.[XIX-73] Ultimately they served only the fillet and head; the -latter of which was more particularly esteemed by the Romans.[XIX-74] - -The Greeks tried their appetites by tasting the liver, which was served -at the first course.[XIX-75] - -The Romans sought to deprive the wild boar of its terrible ferocity; -they raised them on their farms,[XIX-76] and sometimes they acquired -enormous proportions. These immense beasts weighed no less than a -thousand pounds.[XIX-77] But delicate connoisseurs had always the wisdom -to prefer the dangerous inhabitant of the forest to these bloated -victims of enervating domesticity,[XIX-78] whose insipid and degenerate -flavour hardly betrayed their origin. - -The wild boar was generally served surrounded by pyramids of fruits and -lettuces.[XIX-79] - -_Wild Boar à la Pompée._--Clean and salt a wild boar, cover it with -cummin; let it remain in salt during twenty-four hours; then roast it; -sprinkle with pepper, and serve with a seasoning of honey, garum, sweet -and cooked wine.[XIX-80] - -_Quarter of Wild Boar à la Thébaine._--Cook it in sea water with bay -leaves. When very tender take off the skin, and serve with salt, -mustard, and vinegar.[XIX-] - -_Fillet of Wild Boar à la Macédonienne._--Pound pepper, alisander, wild -marjoram, skinned myrtle leaves, coriander, and onions; add honey, wine, -garum, and a little oil. This seasoning must be submitted to a gentle -fire; thicken with flour, and pour the whole over the wild boar as you -draw it from the oven.[XIX-82] - -_Wild Boar’s Liver à la Grecque._--Fry it, and serve with a seasoning of -pepper, cummin, parsley seed, mint, thyme, savory, and roasted pine -nuts; to which add honey, wine, garum, vinegar, and a little -oil.[XIX-83] - -_Wild Boar’s Head à la Cantabre._--Make the seasoning in the following -manner: mix well, pepper, alisander, parsley seed, mint, thyme, and -roasted pine nuts; add wine, vinegar, garum, and a little oil; -afterwards onions and rue; thicken with whites of eggs; boil over a slow -fire, and stir gently.[XIX-84] - -_Green Ham of Wild Boar à la Gauloise._--Insert a long and narrow blade -at the joint, and carefully separate the skin from the flesh, so that -the latter may be well covered with the following seasoning: pound -pepper, bay leaves, rue, and benzoin; add to it some excellent gravy, -cooked wine, and a little oil. Fill the ham, close the opening, and then -cook it in sea water, with some tender shoots of laurel and -dill.[XIX-85] - -Under the Norman kings the wild boar’s head was considered a noble dish, -worthy of the sovereign’s table. This, we are told, was brought to the -king’s table with the trumpeters sounding their trumpets before it in -procession. “For,” says Holinshed, “upon the day of coronation (of young -Henry), King Henry II., his father, served him at table as sewer, -bringing up the bore’s head with trumpetes afore it, according to the -ancient manner.”--STRUTT, “_Manners and Customs_,” Vol ii., p. 19. - -“A very small consumption is made of the old wild boar; the flesh is -hard, dry, and heavy; the head only is good. The young wild boar is a -fine and delicate game, also, when a year old. The ancients submitted -those they could take away from their mother to castration, and left -them afterwards to run about the woods, where these animals became -larger than the others, and acquired a savour and flavour which made -them preferable to the pigs we rear.”--SONNINI. - - -THE HARE. - -Plutarch contends that the Jews abstained from eating the hare, not -because they thought it unclean, but because it resembled the ass, which -they revered.[XIX-86] This is only a pleasantry on the part of the -celebrated writer, with no other foundation than the fabulous tale of -the grammarian Apion, who asserts in his book against the Jews that they -preserved in Jerusalem an ass’s head, which they adored.[XIX-87] We know -that a sanitary motive was the cause of this animal being interdicted to -the Israelites;[XIX-88] and it has been also remarked that the ancient -Britons abstained from it.[XIX-89] - -This mammifer, everywhere very common, swarmed in the East, if we are to -believe Xenophon, who saw a great number of them when marching with his -troops to join young Cyrus.[XIX-90] Greece was abundantly stocked with -them:[XIX-91] the inhabitants of islands of the Ægean sea had more than -once to deplore the ravages which hunger caused these timid animals to -commit, and whose fecundity they cursed. - -Hegesander relates that, under the reign of Antigonus, an inhabitant of -the island of Anaphe brought two hares into the neighbourhood. Their -posterity became so numerous that the people were obliged to implore the -gods to preserve the harvest, and to annihilate their formidable -enemies. As the immortals turned a deaf ear to these complaints, -recourse was had to Apollo alone, and the Pythonissa deigned to return -this oracle: “Train hunting dogs, and they will exterminate the -hares.”[XIX-92] The advice was good, and deemed worthy of being adopted. - -The Greeks esteemed highly the flesh of this quadruped, which was served -roasted, but almost bleeding,[XIX-93] or made into delicious -pies,[XIX-94] much in vogue in the time of Aristophanes.[XIX-95] -Hippocrates had, however, forbidden the use of it. “The hare,” said he, -“thickens the blood, and causes cruel wakefulness;”[XIX-96] but -epicurism will always think lightly of Hygeian precepts which do not -accord with its own ideas. At all events, Galen was not of the same -opinion as his colleague,[XIX-97] and Galen must be right. - -The Emperor Alexander Severus eat a hare at each of his repasts.[XIX-98] -Perhaps that prince shared the opinion of the Romans, who thought that a -person who fed on hare for seven consectutive days became fresher, -fatter, and more beautiful. A lady, named Gellia, had a large share of -that unfortunate gift of nature which we call ugliness. She resolved to -make a trial of this regimen, and submitted to it with a regularity -really exemplary. She showed herself at the end of the week, and we are -informed that no one thought her any the prettier for it.[XIX-99] - -The epicures of Rome contented themselves with eating the shoulder of -the hare, and left the remainder to less fastidious guests.[XIX-100] - - -THE RABBIT. - -“The conies are but feeble folks, yet make they their houses in the -rocks.”[XIX-101] They taught mankind, it is said, the art of -fortification, mining, and covered roads.[XIX-102] These skilful -engineers come originally from warm climates; from Africa, perhaps, -whence they were brought to Spain. - -They there became so numerous, and dug so well their holes beneath the -houses of Tarragona, that that city was completely overthrown, and the -greater part of the inhabitants buried beneath its ruins.[XIX-103] - -Catullus calls Spain _Cuniculosa Celtiberia_ (Celtiberian rabbit -warren); and two medals, struck in the reign of Adrian, represent that -peninsula under the form of a beautiful woman, clothed in a robe and -mantle, with a rabbit at her feet. This animal was called in Hebrew, -_Saphan_, of which the Phœnicians have made _Spania_, and the Latins -_Hispania_.[XIX-104] - -Strabo relates that the inhabitants of the Balearic Islands, despairing -of being able to oppose the extraordinary propagation of rabbits, which -nearly rendered their country uninhabitable, sent ambassadors to Rome to -implore assistance against this new kind of enemy.[XIX-105] Augustus -furnished them with troops, and the Roman arms were once more -victorious.[XIX-106] - -Aristotle says nothing of the rabbit, which, probably, was then little -known in Greece. It afterwards became common enough, and that of -Macedonia, in particular, found favour at tables renowned for -delicacies.[XIX-107] - -The Romans, those bold innovators in cookery, so desirous of strange and -unheard of dishes, would only consent to eat rabbits on condition of -their being killed before they had left off sucking, or taken alive from -the slaughtered mother, to be immediately transferred to the ardent -stoves of their kitchens.[XIX-108] It was certainly reserved for that -people to frighten the world by all kinds of culinary anomalies. - - -THE FOX. - -A young fox, fattened on grapes, and roasted on the spit, is a tidbit -for a king during the autumn.[XIX-109] Such was the idea of the Roman -peasants; but we must be allowed, however, to differ from their opinion. - - -THE HEDGEHOG. - -The Greeks willingly eat the hedgehog[XIX-110] in a _ragoût_--a dish the -Romans never envied them. - - -THE SQUIRREL. - -This charming little animal, which ought never to please but when alive, -often appeared at Rome among the most elegant dishes of the -feast.[XIX-111] At first it was only eaten by caprice: unfortunately for -the little animal, it was found to be very nice. - - -THE CAMEL. - -Aristotle gives the greatest praise to the flesh of this useful animal, -and places it without hesitation above the most delicate -viands.[XIX-112] The Greeks, his countrymen, thought it worthy of being -roasted for the table of sovereigns,[XIX-113] and the inhabitants of -Persia and Egypt partook of the same enthusiasm. Rome thought the camel -fit for the solitude of the Desert, but not for the ornament of -banquets; and really, for this once, Rome appears to have been right. - -“The flesh of the young dromedary is as good as that of veal, and the -Arabs make of it their common food. They preserve it in vases, which -they cover with fat. They make butter and cheese with the milk of the -female.”--DESMAREST. - -The ancients, in their wars, made use of dromedaries. The soldiers when -upon these animals formed a particular militia. In the Egyptian -expedition Bonaparte renewed this ancient custom, and that cavalry -caused a great deal of injury to the Bedouins and Arabs. Besides the -rider, each dromedary carried provisions and munitions of war. - - -THE ELEPHANT. - -Certain wandering tribes of Asia and Africa were thought formerly to be -very fond of grilled elephant.[XIX-114] The Egyptians went so far in -their pursuit of this delicacy, that the King Ptolemy Philadelphus was -forced to forbid them, under pain of the most severe laws, to kill one -of these animals, whose number diminished every day. The law was -disregarded, and the elephant only possessed greater attractions for -them.[XIX-115] - -In our days, also, some semi-savage nations partake of the same taste. -Le Vaillant, a celebrated traveller, and a most distinguished -gastronomist, tells us that the first time he partook of an elephant’s -trunk, which was served him by the Hottentots, he resolved that it -should not be the last; for nothing appeared to him of a more exquisite -flavour.[XIX-116] But he reserves his greatest praises for the foot of -the colossal quadruped. We will let him speak for himself:-- - -“They cut off the four feet of the animal, and made in the earth a hole -about three feet square. This was filled with live charcoal, and, -covering the whole with very dry wood, a large fire was kept up during -part of the night. When they thought that the hole was hot enough, it -was emptied: a Hottentot then placed within it the four feet of the -animal, covered them with hot ashes, and then with charcoal and small -wood; and this fire was left burning until the morning. * * * My -servants presented me at breakfast with an elephant’s foot. It had -considerably swelled in the cooking; I could hardly recognise the shape, -but it appeared so good, exhaled so inviting an odour, that I hastened -to taste it. It was a dish for a king. Although I had often heard the -bear’s foot praised, I could, not conceive how so heavy, so material an -animal as the elephant, could furnish a dish so fine and delicate. * * * -And I devoured, without bread, my elephant’s foot, while my Hottentots, -seated around me, regaled themselves with other parts, which they found -equally delicious.”[XIX-117] - -The Romans never evinced fondness for the flesh of the elephant. This -animal, with its gigantic proportions and rare intelligence, was found -to be so amusing to the nation of kings, when dancing on the tight -rope,[XIX-118] or in the terrible combats of the Circus,[XIX-119] that -they hardly thought of roasting it, or making it into _fricassees_. We -cannot, however, affirm that the gastronomic eccentricity of some Roman -epicure did not dream of a monstrous feast, in which he may have offered -to his guests an elephant _à la Troyenne_ on a silver dish, made -purposely for the occasion. - - - - -XX. - -FEATHERED GAME. - - -Moses permitted his people to eat game, with the exception of birds of -prey and some other species whose flesh appeared to him hard and -unwholesome.[XX-1] - -The Egyptians piously offered to their priests the most delicate birds, -which they willingly accepted, and eat, in order not to weaken their -intelligence by the use of more simple and heavy food.[XX-2] - -Among the Greeks, at the commencement of the repast, little birds were -served roasted, on which was poured a boiling sauce, composed of scraped -cheese, oil, vinegar, and silphium.[XX-3] - -Feathered game appeared in Italy only at the second course. The Romans -were very partial to it, and many epicureans, possessing strange tastes, -found means to ruin themselves by eating pheasants and flamingoes. - -The celebrated comedian, Æsopus, whom Cicero thought worthy of being his -master in the art of declamation, had one day the fancy to regale -himself with a dish of birds, the whole of which, when living, had both -learned to sing and speak.[XX-4] This gluttony of a new kind cost him -very dear, and the supper of the barbarian was not any the better for -it. - -Some modern nations--the French among others--formerly eat the heron, -crane, crow, stork, swan, cormorant, and bittern; the first three -especially were highly esteemed, and Taillevant, cook of Charles VII., -teaches us how to prepare these meagre, tough birds. Belon says that, in -spite of its revolting taste when unaccustomed to it, the bittern is, -however, among the delicious treats of the French.[XX-5] This writer -asserts also that a falcon, or a vulture, either roasted or boiled, is -excellent eating; and that if one of these birds happened to kill itself -in flying after the game, the falconer instantly cooked it. Liebaut -calls the heron a royal viand! - -These same men who eat vultures, herons, and cormorants, did not touch -young game: they thought it indigestible; and, for instance, abstained -from leverets and partridges. - -The internal parts being the first to corrupt, the ancients carefully -drew the game they wished to preserve. That done, they filled the inside -with wheat or oats, and then placed it in the midst of a heap of flour -or grain, with the feathers or hair on. - -Thus protected from the contact of the air or insects, the game kept -remarkably well. - - -THE PHEASANT. - -The Argonauts discovered this magnificent bird on the shores of Phasis, -a celebrated river of Colchis, and introduced it into Greece, where it -was unknown.[XX-6] This tradition, sung by the poets,[XX-7] has only met -with one contradictor, Isidorus,[XX-8] who pretends that the pheasant is -a native of an island of Greece, called Phasis. - -All nations soon hastened to receive it with the favour its rich plumage -and the exquisite delicacy of its flesh deserve. Carried in cages -composed of precious wood, it adorned the triumphal march of Ptolemy -Philadelphus, at his entry into Alexandria.[XX-9] Ptolemy Evergetes, -successor to that prince, caused pheasants to be sent from Media, which -he destined for his aviary; and he never eat them, so much did he dread -the idea of diminishing their number.[XX-10] But, alas! custom and time, -those jealous enemies of the greatest glories, eventually put an end to -that. The unfortunate creature was stripped of its feathers and roasted; -gluttony, an insatiable monster that never says “enough,” rejoiced at -being able to count it among the number of its conquests. The Greeks had -coops for pheasants as we have for fowls, not to please the eye, but to -ornament the table,[XX-11] and a foolish prodigality caused a whole -pheasant to be served to each guest in those luxurious repasts which the -Athenians gave to display their pomp and ostentatious -hospitality.[XX-12] - -Among the Romans, Pliny is the first (or we are mistaken) who mentions -this bird, then very uncommon in Italy, since they went in quest of it -to the banks of the Phasis.[XX-13] Its rarity did not prevent Vitellius -from having a _ragoût_ of pheasants’ brains,[XX-14] mixed with other -viands of an unheard-of delicacy, in the immense dish called by him “the -Shield of Minerva.”[XX-15] - -Pertinax willingly partook of pheasant, but on condition that they cost -his miserly sensuality nothing. Heliogabalus would only eat them three -times a week. Alexander Severus reserved them for solemn -occasions.[XX-16] They were sacrificed each morning to the statue of -Caligula,[XX-17] at the foot of which the vile troop of courtiers -prostrated themselves at the very time even when Cæsar, in a fit of -sanguinary monomania, wished that the Roman people had but one neck, -that he might sever it at a blow.[XX-18] - -It is especially from the commencement of the 14th century that the -pheasant, better appreciated in Europe, has resumed in banquets that -remarkable place,[XX-19] constantly assigned to it throughout this new -era, in which our taste maintains it, and from which our posterity will -never remove it, if they inherit that wonderful sentiment of the good -and beautiful which so eminently distinguishes the epicures of the -present day. - -Let us add, for the comfort of weak stomachs, that the medical light of -Pergamo--the illustrious Galen--recommends them the use of the flesh of -pheasants;[XX-20] that he prescribed it for himself, and found it a most -delightful remedy. - -“Mingrelia, or the antique Colchis, is the cradle of pheasants, that -species of birds being stronger and finer there than anywhere else, but -it is seen, however, all over Europe, in Africa, and Asia, even in the -cold countries of the north. This beautiful bird forms an article of -commerce with the Chinese, who sell them frozen in the market of -Kiakta.”--SONNINI. - - -THE PARTRIDGE. - -The Greeks and Romans were acquainted with partridges, and eat -them.[XX-21] The red, at first very rare in Italy, were, however, -advantageously replaced by the white, which true amateurs procured at a -great expense from the Alps.[XX-22] - -The Athenians were fond of seeing them fight, and raised them for this -cruel sport.[XX-23] Alexander Severus also sought in these sanguinary -struggles relief from the cares of royalty.[XX-24] - -Aristippus, a more humane, perhaps a more luxurious, philosopher, gave -as much as fourteen shillings for a fine fat partridge,[XX-25] which, -passing from the aviary to the kitchen, escaped the fatal vicissitudes -of a desperate combat. - -In Greece, people who knew how to enjoy life thought much of the leg of -this warlike bird.[XX-26] It was fashionable not to touch any other -part. At Rome, when politeness was not of so much consequence, they -sometimes ventured on the breast. We, barbarians, eat the entire -partridge. - - -THE QUAIL. - -The dead may be raised by the means of a quail, said the ancients. Now -for the proof: Hercules having been killed in Lybia, Iolaüs took one of -these birds, which fortunately happened to be at hand, and placed it -beneath his friend’s nose. The hero no sooner smelt it than his eyes -opened to the light, and Acheron was forced to give up his prey.[XX-27] - -The learned Bochart denies this prodigy.[XX-28] He affirms that Hercules -was subject to epileptic attacks, and that, during a fit, they caused -him to smell a quail, whose odour quickly cured him.[XX-29] - -The Phœnicians insisted that he was quite dead, and they all cried -out, “A miracle!”[XX-30] The reader must decide between them and -Bochart. - -In the Desert the Israelites fed on quails;[XX-31] and this food, -reserved for them by Divine goodness, caused no discomfort among the -fugitive tribes. The Greeks served them on their tables with -partridges:[XX-32] they raised them in aviaries, and eat them all the -year round.[XX-33] Aristotle speaks most highly of them, and does not -attribute to them any dangerous property.[XX-34] However, quails were -banished from all Roman tables: they were no longer carefully -fattened:[XX-35] they were cursed, and accused of causing epilepsy in -those who partook of their fatal and seductive flesh.[XX-36] The -authority of Galen confirmed this strange prejudice,[XX-37] and these -innocent birds, having lost all reputation in Italy, no doubt easily -consoled themselves for the happy ostracism which delivered them from a -too expensive glory. - -At all events, it is probable that Rome had wickedly calumniated quails; -two skilful men, devoted to the cause, undertook to defend them: they -were called Hippolochus and Antiphanus.[XX-38] Their eloquent pleadings -caused a sensation; the epicureans were moved, and some of these birds -were recalled, fattened, and roasted. - -Quails, like cocks and partridges, seem born to fight to excess.[XX-39] -The Grecians encouraged their warlike ardour, and threw them into the -arena, where they contemplated their furious attacks with as much -pleasure as they experienced at the sight of gladiators murdering each -other in order to amuse them.[XX-40] Solon--the wise Solon--required -that young men should be trained to courage at the school of these bold -champions, and learn from them to despise danger, pain, and -death.[XX-41] We know that sensibility was little thought of in the plan -of education formed by the great legislator. Long after him, however, -the Areopagus gave a dreadful proof of this, by condemning to death a -little boy who had amused himself by pulling out the eyes of all the -quails unfortunate enough to fall into his hands. This precocious -monster was too promising.[XX-42] - - -THE THRUSH. - -The immortal author of the Iliad did not disdain, it is said, to compose -a poem in praise of thrushes. These verses were so beautiful that the -Greeks learned them all by heart in their infancy.[XX-43] The singular -love of the ancients for this bird renders these poetical honours -tolerably probable. More than once Comus has borrowed the lyre of -Apollo. - -In Greece, children were not allowed to eat thrushes, because it was -feared that their delicious flesh might cause them to contract too early -habits of gluttony and effeminacy. Young girls received them as presents -from their betrothed on the day of their marriage.[XX-44] They were -served at the most sumptuous feasts,[XX-45] and Attica enriched with its -gold the bird-catchers of that Daphne,[XX-46] so celebrated for her -luxury and scandalous voluptuousness. - -Rome inherited this gastronomic rage. One of Varro’s aunts reared -thrushes in the country, and sold 60,000 of them every year, to the -numerous epicures of the metropolis of the world. She derived an immense -revenue from this speculation.[XX-47] Magnificent aviaries were soon -seen in all rich Roman villas; they were filled with thrushes; and the -multitude of these birds became such that they furnished a plentiful -manure for the land.[XX-48] They were fed on crushed figs, mixed with -wheaten flour; they had also millet, add great care was taken to -preserve in the aviary a current of fresh and pure water to slake their -thirst.[XX-49] On days of triumph and rejoicing, a dozen of these -tempting thrushes cost no less than twenty-seven shillings.[XX-50] - -On those solemn occasions more than one generous citizen, consulting his -prodigality more than his purse, ruined himself[XX-51] for love of his -guests. More than one obsequious dependant spent his last sesterces in -composing ingenious crowns of thrushes,[XX-52] which his haughty patrons -deigned to receive as a homage. It is true he was sometimes allowed to -become a spectator of the repast which his gift was to -embellish[XX-53]--certainly a most flattering recompense for his -gratitude and servility! - - DESCRIPTION OF PLATE No. IX. - - VARRO’S MAGNIFICENT AVIARY.--Adjoining his villa was a part of the - house called the Ornithon, or the Aviary, of which some ruins are - still remaining, between the two small rivers Vinius and Casinus, - but can hardly be made out. More, perhaps, was in existence when - the famous architect and antiquarian, Pierre Ligorio, drew the plan - and profile more than 200 years ago. This drawing of Plate IX. is - conformable with Varro’s own description, who says that: “At the - entrance there are two porticoes, or two large cages (in the Plate - these are omitted for want of space); they are buildings with - colonnades all round, on the top and sides there are nettings - spread to prevent the escape of the birds. The entrance to the - yards is between the two pavilions; two basins, long and wide, are - alongside of the court-yard on the right and left of it; from them - you pass to the grand double colonnade, the first circumference of - which is of stone, and the second of pine; the distance from each - other is five feet, and the whole of this middle space is filled - with birds, which are prevented from escaping by small fillets all - over the top and sides. There are, between the columns, like a - small theatre, rails, like steps, put forward for the birds to - perch upon. There are birds of various species, particularly - singing birds, such as nightingales and blackbirds; a small canal - supplies them with fresh water, and they are fed from under the - netting. Facing the pedestals of the column is a stone, raised one - foot nine inches above the quay, and that is elevated two feet - above the level of the water; its width is five feet, to enable the - visitor to walk round. At the lower part of the quay, on the - water-side, there are holes practised where the ducks can retire. - In the centre of the large basin, about 200 feet in diameter, is a - small island, bordered by a small colonnade, under which Varro - treats his friends; in the middle, a round table, which a servant - turns on a pivot, so that in succession the guests are supplied - with dishes, plates, cups, and goblets. There is seen also an - hemisphere, where the star Lucifer turns in the day, and Hesperus - at night; both mark the hour, and are variable; on the same - hemisphere the winds, to the number of eight, are marked with a - hand that is always moving as the wind changes, the same as the - clock of Cyprestus, at Athena.” - - The drawing of this Aviary is beautiful. It appears that Pierre - Ligorio followed Varro’s description; at all events, the drawing of - this Plate perfectly agrees with it. - -[Illustration: _Pl. 9._] - -Heliogabalus eat only the brains of these birds.[XX-54] This dish -appeared to him most excellent, for it was very costly. - -The extreme delicacy of this volatile, which poetical connoisseurs have -celebrated in their verses,[XX-55] recommends it to those with weak -stomachs and to convalescents. Pompey being ill, his physician ordered -him a thrush, but it was impossible to find one in Rome. Some one -advised the celebrated general to apply to Lucullus, who fattened them -throughout the year. “What,” cried Pompey, ill-humouredly, “shall I have -to thank Lucullus’s pompous luxury for life!” He refused to eat the -thrush, and he recovered.[XX-56] - - -THE BLACKBIRD. - -What has been already said of the thrush precludes the necessity of -writing much on the blackbird, for both these kinds of birds were -equally dear to the gastronomists of Greece and Italy.[XX-57] They were -fattened in the same manner,[XX-58] served on the same tables. The -blackbird, in fact, like the thrush, re-established the strength and -health of the rich.[XX-59] The poor were compelled to have recourse to -less expensive remedies. - -“The flesh of the blackbird, so delicate in the time of gathering -grapes, acquires at that period a savour which makes it as precious as -the quail, but becomes bitter when they feed on the juniper berries, the -ivy, or other similar fruits. Some medicinal properties are attributed -to it; the oil in which the blackbirds have been cooked is recommended -to persons afflicted with sciatica: and the soil of these birds, -dissolved in vinegar, is, we are informed, a certain specific for -removing the freckles of the face or spots on the skin.”--VIEILLOT. - -In 1468, Louis XI. ordered one of his authorised ruffians, named -Perdriel, to seize all the tame blackbirds he could find in Paris. These -poor birds were sent to Amboise, where a register was kept of what they -said or sung. It appears that the king intended to punish those citizens -of his capital who taught these innocent volatiles to repeat abuse of -the sovereign, after which he would have wrung the necks of the too -intelligent birds. Louis XI. could not carry out this singular idea, -because he himself was shortly after the Duke of Burgundy’s prisoner at -Péronne. Blackbirds and citizens had a narrow escape.[XX-60] - - -THE STARLING. - -Drusus and Britannicus, sons of the Emperor Claudius, had a starling -which spoke admirably the Greek and Latin. Alone he studied his lessons, -and afterwards recited them to the astonished princes.[XX-61] Science -protected the learned bird from the fate reserved by the Greeks and -Romans for the rest of its family, less distinguished by their erudition -than by their culinary qualities. Starlings, roasted in the kitchens, -honourably associated with partridges, blackbirds, and thrushes,[XX-62] -and the disciples of Galen recommended them to their patients, who -willingly submitted to so nourishing and light a food.[XX-63] - - -THE FLAMINGO. - -A profound study of the art of good cheer caused the Romans to discover -that the thick tongue of the phenicopter, or flamingo, presents towards -its root a rather considerable adipose appendage. They tasted this lump -of fat, and Rome was enriched with another dish. - -It has been asserted that the glory of inventing this refinement in -gluttony is due to Apicius. Italy possessed three gastrophiles of this -name: the first flourished a short time before the dictatorship of -Julius Cæsar; the second, Marcus Gabius, held a school of sensuality at -Rome, under the reigns of Augustus and Tiberius; the third, Cælius, was -contemporary with Trajan, and poisoned himself for fear of dying of -hunger. - -We possess, under the name of this last, a Latin work in ten books, from -which we have borrowed largely, as the reader may have already remarked. -It would be difficult to decide to which of the three Apicii it belongs. -The author speaks of the flamingo, but does not mention its tongue: the -treatise, then, is not the work of M. Gabius, who would doubtless have -indicated the preparation of a dish of which Pliny assures us he was so -fond.[XX-64] As to Cælius, if he were the compiler of this - -[Illustration: _Pl. 10_] - -curious volume, as it is thought, how comes it he has forgotten a dish -so justly celebrated, in this magiric catalogue, in which no detail, -however minute, seems to escape him? It would appear that this contested -paternity rightfully belongs to the first Apicius, unless some of the -learned contest it on the ground that the style of the work nowise -agrees with the latinity of his century.[XX-65] - -May one of the learned societies of Europe some day take up this arduous -question, and restore the ancient masterpiece to its admirable author. -In the meantime the writer of the present work will continue to venerate -the memory of Cælius Apicius, and offer him crowns of smallage, roses, -and parsley, for his name embellishes the frontispiece of those pages -which reveal to us the secrets of Roman cookery; and we repeat, with -Sosie:-- - - “Le véritable Amphitryon - Est l’Amphitryon où l’on dine.”[XX-66] - -Honour is due also to the other Apicius for his ingenious sauce of -flamingo tongues. True, we have never tasted it, for this expensive -fancy can only be satisfied in the marshes of the Nile.[XX-67] It is -still little known in Europe, but the most fastidious of the Romans -regaled themselves with it.[XX-68] Three Emperors, Caligula, Vitellius, -and Heliogabalus--immortal triumvirate of incomparable -polyphagists!--carried to indigestion their gastronomic delirium, their -love for this famous _ragoût_.[XX-69] These great authorities are -conclusive. - -The traveller, Dampier, wished to try the flesh of the flamingo, and he -thought it very good, though lean, and very black.[XX-70] - -“The flesh of the phenicopterus is a dish more sought after in Egypt -than in Europe; however, Catesby compares it for its delicacy to the -partridge; Dampier says it has a fine flavour, although lean; Dutertre -finds it excellent notwithstanding its marshy taste; the tongue is the -most delicious part.”--VIEILLOT. - - -FIG-PECKER, OR, BECAFICO. - -The Duke of C---- had received from nature one of those culinary -organizations which the vulgar assimilate with gluttony, and the man of -art calls genius. Greece would have raised statues to him; the Roman -emperor Vitellius would have shared the Empire with him. In France he -gained the esteem of all parties by inviting them to sumptuous banquets. - -This rich patrician brought up with tender care a young _chef de -cuisine_, whom his _major-domo_ had bequeathed to him on his death-bed, -as Mazarin did Colbert to Louis XIV. The disciple profited by the -learned lessons of the Duke; already the young _chef’s_ head, eye, and -hand possessed that promptitude and certainty whose union is so rarely -combined: there remained for him only the instruction of experience. - -One day, in the month of September, some guests of the highest class, -all professed judges in the order of epicureans, met together at the -residence of the noble Amphitryon, who often claimed the authority of -their enlightened judgment. The learned Areopagitæ had to pronounce on -certain new dishes: it was necessary, by dint of seduction, to captivate -the favour and patronage of these judges by disarming their severity. - -Everything was served to the greatest nicety, everything was deemed -exquisite, and they only awaited the dessert--that little course which -causes the emotion of the great culinary drama to be forgotten--when the -young _chef_ appeared, and placed in the centre of the table a silver -dish, containing twelve eggs. “Eggs!” exclaimed the Duke. The astonished -guests looked at each other in silence. The cook took one of the eggs, -placed it in a little china boat, slightly broke the shell, and begged -his master to taste the contents. The latter continued to remove the -white envelope, and at length discovered a savoury and perfumed ball of -fat. It was a fig-pecker of a golden colour--fat, delicate, -exquisite--surrounded by a wonderful seasoning.[XX-71] - -The good old man cast on his pupil a look full of tenderness and pride; -and, holding out his hand to him: “You are inspired by Petronius,” said -he; “to imitate in such a manner is to create. Courage! I am much -pleased with you.” - -This classic dish--a revival from the feasts of Trimalcio--enjoyed only -an ephemeral glory. Europe was on fire; a warlike fever raged -everywhere; and Paris soon forgot the eggs of Petronius. - -The fig-pecker merits the attention of the most serious gastronomists. -The ancients reckoned it among the most refined of dishes.[XX-72] The -Greeks made delicate pies of this bird, which exhaled an odour so -tempting, that criticism was disarmed beforehand.[XX-73] - -The Romans gave it their entire esteem,[XX-74] and prepared it with -truffles and mushrooms.[XX-75] Among them, men who knew what good cheer -means, thought there was nothing worth eating in birds but the leg and -lower part of the body. Fig-peckers were the only exception to this -rule: they were served and eaten entire. - -“In the southerly parts of France, and in Italy, all the different -species of linget, and almost all birds with a slender beak, are -commonly called becafico, because in the autumn they attack and eat the -figs, and thereby the flesh of these birds becomes then fat and -exquisite; but that really known as the becafico is remarkable for its -delicacy; therefore it has at all times been _recherché_ as an excellent -eating. It is like a small lump of light fat--savoury, melting, easy of -digestion; and, in truth, an extract of the juice from the delicious -fruits it has fed upon.”--_Vieillot._ - - -THE ORTOLAN. - -Florence and Bologna sent to Rome cases of ortolans, the enormous price -of which irritated instead of discouraging gluttony.[XX-76] They arrived -in the metropolis of the world, picked and separated one from the other -by layers of flour to prevent decomposition.[XX-77] Each of these little -birds furnished only a mouthful; but this incomparable mouthful eclipsed -everything else, and produced a sort of epicurean extacy which may be -called the _transcendantalism_ of gastronomy. - -Ortolans were submitted to the same treatment as fig-peckers in their -preparation. - - -THE OSTRICH. - -There were tribes formerly in Arabia who fed on ostriches, and who for -this reason were called strutiophagists.[XX-78] Marmot asserts that, in -his time, they were eaten in Africa, although their flesh was glutinous, -and had a bad smell. When the people of Numidia took any that were -young, they reared and fatted them, and led them to feed by flocks in -the Desert; and as soon as they were fat they killed and salted -them.[XX-79] - -The Arabs of the present day abstain from them; but it is said they seek -much the fat, which they use plentifully in cooking. - -They were served at Rome on a few tables. This was nothing but a -depravation of taste. - -Heliogabalus, who understood good living better, contented himself with -the brains of ostriches. Six hundred of these animals furnished enough -for one meal.[XX-80] The devastation was great, but the emperor had made -a good supper. - -The ostrich’s eggs are very hard, very heavy, and very large; their -weight often equals three pounds. The colour is of a dirty white, with -light yellow veins; they are good to eat. In Africa they are sought -after as a _friandise_, and cooked in various ways. The commonest and -the best is, after breaking, to mix and cook them with a good deal of -butter. They are large enough and sufficient for a man’s meal. - -When the Arabs have killed an ostrich they open its throat, and make a -ligature under the opening; three or four men take the bird, and shake -it, the same as rincing a pouch; after which, the ligature being undone, -a considerable quantity of a greasy substance comes out, mixed with -blood and fat as thick as coagulated oil. One ostrich produces as much -as twenty pounds of it, and it is used for the preparation of dishes, -for the cure of rheumatism, _humeurs froides_, and paralysis. The Romans -used this grease for the same purposes, and believed it possessed the -most precious qualities. - - -THE STORK. - -In spite of the religious respect of the Romans for this bird, the -emblem of peace[XX-81] and domestic virtues, Sempronius Rufus, an -ancient prætor, caused his cook to dress some young storks; and this -brought into fashion[XX-82] a dish which caprice alone could introduce -at feasts.[XX-83] - - -THE SEA-SWALLOW. - -Among the ancients, the swallow--joyous herald of spring--possessed -little attraction for those men whom their gluttony has rendered so -justly celebrated. Alas! they knew not the “Salangan swallow,” _hirundo -esculenta_; they never tasted those birds’ nests which Europe still -envies the East. - -The inhabitants of the Philippine Islands give the designation of -salangan swallow to a little coast bird (the halcyon, or kingfisher), -celebrated for the singular construction of its nest. These nests have -been compared to those which the Greeks and Romans called halcyon’s -nests; but this comparison is false, since the marine productions to -which they gave this name are not birds’ nests but polypus’s, or the -cylindrical covering of the polypi--the _halcyonium_--a kind of -medicament, of which there were several varieties.[XX-103] - -All travellers agree that the Chinese, and other eastern nations, have -an extreme partiality for the salangan’s nest, as a delicious seasoning -for their viands, and that they value it excessively; but they differ -strangely as to its nature, its form, and the places where it is found. - -According to some, the material of these nests is a froth of the sea, or -the spawn of fish, and strongly aromatic. Others say it has no taste. -Some pretend that it is a juice gathered by the salangans from the tree -called _salambouc_; some maintain that it is a viscous humour that they -give out from the beak at a certain period of the year; and, lastly, -many affirm that these birds compose it entirely from the remains of -fish-zoophytes. - -With respect to the form, some say that it is hemispherical; others that -it resembles a shell valve. - -As to the places where the salangans build their nests, some observers -assure us that it is fixed on the rocks a little above the level of the -sea; in the hollows of those same rocks; and, lastly, that they conceal -them in holes which they burrow under ground. According to Kœmpfer, -these nests, so far as they are known to us, are nothing more than a -preparation concocted from the flesh of the polypi. - -The celebrated traveller Poivre, while occupied one day in picking up -shells and coral near Java, penetrated a rather deep cavern at a short -distance from the sea shore, and found the sides of it covered with -little nests, in the form of a deep shell, firmly fixed to the rock. -These nests were taken on board, and several persons who had been in -China immediately recognised them as being identical with those that the -Chinese seek with such avidity. The birds which had built them were true -swallows, of about the size of the humming bird. Poivre adds that, in -the months of March and April, the sea from Java to Cochin China is -covered with spawn, which has the appearance of half-dissolved glue, and -that he had learned from the Malays and the Cochin Chinese that the -salangan builds its nest with this spawn. All agreed on this point. The -bird picks it up as he skims the water, or from the rocks where the -spawn coagulates. It is at the end of July and the commencement of -August that the Cochin Chinese collect the nests, and, as the young -birds are hatched in March and April, the species do not suffer by it. - -By the subsequent examination of these nests it was found that they -presented the form of the half of a hollow, lengthened ellipsoid. They -are composed, externally, of very thin laminæ, nearly concentric, and -laid one over the other. The interior presents several layers of -irregular net-work, superposed one over another, and formed of a -multitude of threads of the same matter as the external laminæ, and -which cross and re-cross in every direction. - -Their composition, which has a slight taste of salt, is of a yellowish -white and demi-transparent; it softens in warm water without dissolving, -and increases in volume. It is a substantial food, and would be -excellent for persons suffering from exhaustion, whose debile stomachs -ill perform their functions. Poivre declares that he never eat anything -more fortifying than a pottage made with these nests and some good meat. - -The salangan nests are of two sorts--the white and the black. It appears -that the white nests are those of the same year, and that the black ones -belong to an epoch less recent. The birds are engaged about two months -in preparing them, and the Chinese do not take them away until the young -ones are feathered, and begin to be pretty strong on the wing.[XX-104] - - * * * * * - -This nomenclature would be incomplete, did we not briefly mention some -kinds of game which appeared with more or less favour on the tables of -the ancients. - -The _Wood-Hen_, dear to the Greeks,[XX-84] was not common at Rome in the -time of Varro. The curious reared them in aviaries with other rare -birds.[XX-85] - -The _Bustard_, the _Water-Hen_, and the _Teal_, found many -admirers.[XX-86] The Romans reared the last-named,[XX-87] and judged it -worthy of notice among the most delicate morsels of the feast. - -The _Woodcock_, which is thought to be the _rustica perdix_ of -Martial,[XX-88] and the _Snipe_ do not appear to have obtained from the -gastrophilists of antiquity that attention they deserved. This delicious -game was ill-appreciated in Italy and at Athens. History, that -“conscience of posterity,” reproaches them with this oversight, and is -astonished that the _Curlew_ should have usurped, particularly in -Greece,[XX-89] a pre-eminence which it certainly does not deserve. - -“The fat of the snipe is of a most delicate savour, which it acquires -only after the first appearance of the frosty season. It is cooked like -the woodcock, without being drawn.”--VIEILLOT. - -The _gourmets_ have a way of knowing when the flesh of the woodcock is -arrived at the degree of flavour required to be sought after: the bird -is suspended by the beam-feather of the middle of its tail; when the -body gets loose and full, then is the time to eat it. - -“The woodcock is cooked with the entrails in, which, being pounded with -what they contain, form its own and best seasoning.”--_Sonnini._ - -The _Crow_, an object of superstitious worship among the -Egyptians,[XX-90] offered to the less scrupulous inhabitants of -Alexandria a dish unequalled in delicacy;[XX-91] but which never seems -to have tempted the nations of the west. - -The _Turtle Dove_,[XX-92] whose timid innocence caused it to be revered -in Assyria,[XX-93] had a less glorious destiny at Rome. It was roasted, -and epicures greedily devoured the legs.[XX-94] - -The _Lark_ joined to the delicate flavour of its flesh a more precious -quality; either roast or boiled, it infallibly cured persons attacked -with the colic.[XX-95] We cannot say whether it possesses this useful -property at the present day. - -“The common lark, which is called at Paris _mauviette_, is generally -looked upon as a wholesome, delicate, and light game. It is dressed in -various ways; and the _gourmets_ appreciate the value of the excellent -lark pies which have established the reputation of the town of -Pithiviers in France.”--SONNINI. - -The Romans went to almost fabulous expenses in order to procure game. -What enormous sums, may we not imagine, were given for those dishes of -flamingoes’ tongues and ostriches’ brains already mentioned! What must -have been the cost of the seven thousand birds which the brother of -Vitellius served to the voracious emperor![XX-96] And yet all these -follies fall far short of those they committed through their love of -fish. - -The inventive genius of the Greeks discovered in ichthyophagy strange -refinements, though always impressed with we know not what kind of -propriety, which seems to palliate their excesses. The Romans at first -imitated, and soon afterwards surpassed them. Their frightful gluttony -was revived by crime, and exulted in barbarity. The sea eels (conger, or -_muræna helena_) will not eat; let a slave be thrown to them, young and -healthy, his flesh will be more tempting and alive, that his struggle -against unspeakable tortures may the better irritate the devouring -ardour of these beloved fish. And a few days afterwards, the grave -patrician, or the noble knight, again offered them this human food; and -no remorse, no doubt, no gloom, ever clouded his brow; no thrill of -horror crossed his mind, while he feasted on those sea eels he had -fattened so well. - -More than two-thirds of the inhabitants of the most civilised countries -were plunged in slavery, and employed solely to gratify the sensuality -of the other third. That alone gives a terrifying idea of the contempt -in which man was held by his fellow-man, of the power of egotism, and of -the vast corruption resulting from it. And what cruelties were committed -in the face of heaven, sanctioned by the law, and by the manners and -customs of society! The masters had absolute power over their slaves, -and could punish them with blows or death at their own will and -pleasure.[XX-97] If an unfortunate servant happened to taste a sauce, or -the remains of a fish, this unpardonable crime was often punished by -crucifixion.[XX-98] The virtuous Cato sold his old slaves at whatever -price they would fetch, rather than feed useless beings.[XX-99] The -senator, Q. Flaminius, put one of his domestics to death as a new -spectacle for one of his friends, who had never enjoyed the pleasure of -seeing a man killed.[XX-100] If the father of a family was assassinated -in his house, and the murderer was not discovered, all the slaves were -subject to the capital punishment. One of the grandees of Rome, who -possessed four hundred of them, having been killed by one of the number, -they were all put to death.[XX-101] At the funeral of rich persons, a -certain number of slaves were often slain as victims agreeable to their -manes. - -And what is remarkable is, that these things, which we can hardly -believe, were not viewed as excesses, not even as an abuse of power, but -simply as the exercise of a natural right. Such scenes were witnessed -daily, without exciting the least censure, or the slightest -protestation, on the part of those numerous writers and sophists, who -passed their whole lives in declaiming against the manners of the age. -It is true that legislation had taken the lead by applying to slaves -this dreadful aphorism: “They are still more null than vile;”--_Non tam -viles quam nulli sunt_.[XX-102] - -Such were the conquerors of the world! Such were those Romans who -invented dreadful crimes through love of good living! - - - - -XXI. - -FISH. - - -Perhaps it has not been sufficiently remarked that the science of -ichthyophagy is generally developed in a direct ratio with the -civilization of a people. Man began at first by satisfying the imperious -necessities of his stomach; he then eat to live, and all was good to -him. Experience by degrees gave rise to _eclectism_--choice. It was then -discovered that a coarse and solid food might be replaced by a delicate -and savoury alimentation; joyous appetite, and sensuality, its -effeminate companion, took the place of hunger, and this happy couple -gave birth to the more amiable of fairies, who, under the name of -Gastronomy, was soon to govern the world and prescribe to it -imperishable laws. - -It is asserted that the art of preparing fish was one of the first boons -of this powerful sovereign, and that, instructed by her, Thetis rendered -ichthyophagist the god of light and the fine arts.[XXI-1] - -The Jews, an agricultural people, living far from the borders of the -sea, attached but very little importance to fishing and the researches -necessarily attendant on it; so much so, that we hardly perceive any -trace among them of this kind of food, which Moses did not entirely -interdict, since that wise legislator was satisfied with prohibiting -fishes without scales or fins.[XXI-2] What an immense wealth remained -unexplored! Let us pity them for not having known how to profit by it, -notwithstanding the good will of the Phœnicians, inhabitants of the -coast, who brought them the produce of their maritime excursions. - -Let us say it: the Hebrews were tolerably bad cooks. They possessed most -admirable laws, a fertile country, courage and many virtues, but their -sobriety never would allow them to understand the art of good living. In -that, they are to be pitied. - -We must agree that the Egyptians had better taste. Worshippers of -certain fish, they used to embalm them[XXI-3] as a means of -preservation; and what is still better, they eat others in spite of the -example of their priests, who never touched them.[XXI-4] In fact, the -preparation of those dishes required the trouble of a little study and -culinary labour; therefore, to avoid it, they eat the fish raw when very -hungry; the epicures dried them in the sun, and they were served salted -on great solemnities. - -But it was left to a woman to understand this wholesome and delicate -food, and to raise it to the rank it ought always to have occupied. - -Gatis--let her be named with admiration--Queen of Syria, and no doubt a -beautiful woman, was so fond of fish that, in order to be continually -supplied with the choicest quality, she ordered all caught in her -kingdom to be brought to her, and that none should be eaten without the -royal permission. This law, for it really was one, created great -dissatisfaction; but she very sensibly allowed them to complain, and -continued to treat herself and those of her privileged subjects whom she -condescended sometimes to admit to her table, with the most exquisite -dishes of fish, such as the tunny, conger eel, and carp.[XXI-5] It is -much to be regretted that the chroniclers of that time have forgotten to -transmit to us the name of the cook of this illustrious Queen, and the -recipes of the sauces she preferred. - -With great pleasure we turn to the Greeks, that charming people who had -only to set their foot on the most barren soil to cover it with flowers, -and who laid the foundation of ichthyophagy as well as all other -sciences. - -It appears, however, that, at first, they thought but little of fish as -an aliment. None had ever been served to the heroes of Homer, and -Ulysses, relating that his hungry companions had partaken of some fish, -seems to excuse them, by saying: “Hunger pressed their digestive -organs.”[XXI-6] To be sure a celebrated philosopher,[XXI-7] and also an -amiable epicurean,[XXI-8] attributed this grievous abstinence of those -warriors to the fear of being enervated by dishes too delicious. And -then, the terrible Achilles and the impetuous Ajax could not, perhaps, -make up their minds to degustate under their tents a sole _au gratin_, -or a fried herring, with the slow precaution more humble mortals -willingly submit to. - -But shortly after that, fresh and salt fish became one of the principal -articles of diet with the Hellenes. - -Aristophanes and the gastrophilist Athenæus, allude to it a hundred -times in their writings, and various personages are the subjects of -biting sarcasms on account of their excessive partiality to the mullet, -scar, and turbot. We may name, among others, Philoxenes of Cythera, who -learning from his doctor that he was going to die of indigestion, for -having eaten too much of a most exquisite fish: “Be it so,” he calmly -exclaimed; “but, before I go, allow me to finish the remainder.”[XXI-9] - -Everyone knows the witty jokes of Lucian, who informs us that he knew a -philosopher who examined, with the most serious comicality, the nature -of the soul of an oyster.[XXI-10] - -Highly favoured by the neighbourhood of the sea, the Greek population -applied themselves, with that peculiar taste which characterized them, -to distinguish the best species; and skilful cooks knew how to give to -fish the most refined flavour, thanks to the numerous combinations of -ingredients which we too have learned from the ancient authors who have -written on dietetics. They possessed various ways of preparing them with -salt or oil, and aromatics.[XXI-11] Athenæus has transmitted to us some -very important precepts upon their seasoning. Æschylus and Sophocles -were not above lowering their tragic muse by sometimes introducing -remarks on fish sauce. - -The productions of the sea had for Athens such an irresistible interest, -that a law of police forbad all fishmongers to sit down until they had -parted with the whole of their stock; so that the uncomfortable position -of standing made them more submissive, and induced them to dispose of -the fish at a more reasonable price.[XXI-12] This regulation in the -“Billingsgate” of Athens was very rigorously observed, and the -purchasers were highly delighted with it. - -They also required that the fish should always be out of the water; and -this wise law, consequently, did not allow its being preserved, or the -price to be increased.[XXI-13] And finally, as soon as any kind of fish -was brought to market, they were required to call the customers together -immediately, by a kind of market-bell, which was a sort of invitation to -come and make their purchases.[XXI-14] - -Some would-be philosophers, members of the opposition of that period, -thought of raising their voices against the common taste. Symmachus, -Polycrates, and Lamprias, tried to prove, in their writings, that those -who eat fish were the most cruel and ferocious of men. These tender -ichthyophilists were laughed at, and their works had no sale. - -The Romans inherited the predilection of the Greeks, “For the dumb -companions of the fair Amphitryte;” but, excited by the love of the -marvellous, they stocked the sea with imaginary beings; and they saw -whales of four acres, fishes of two hundred cubits, and even that eel, -or that serpent, which veridical navigators have seen again in our days. -It was then thirty feet in length,[XXI-15] but now it is much longer! - -Pliny, who believed so many things, swore to these by the twelve great -gods of Olympus. At all events, we are much indebted to that laborious -naturalist for very precious information. He has made us acquainted with -the scare, which the Roman epicures preferred to every other species. -After the scare, the eel-pout or lotas’-liver enjoyed a great -reputation. The red mullet, which is still much esteemed, was considered -as one of the most delicate of dishes, and the Romans in fashionable -circles employed it in a refinement of pleasure of a singular kind. - -It is well known that this fish, when the scales are removed, still -remains of a fine pink colour. The fops of Rome having remarked that, at -the death, this colour passed through a succession of the most beautiful -shades, the poor mullet was served alive, inclosed in a glass vessel; -and the guests, attentive and greedy of emotions, enjoyed this cruel -spectacle, which presented to them a gradation of colours, which -insensibly disappeared.[XXI-16] - -The greatest sensualists killed it in brine, and Apicius was the first -who invented this kind of luxury. The brine most in use, in such cases, -was made with the blood of mackerel, and that was one of the varieties -of that famous garum so highly praised by the Latin authors, and which -was to them, at that period, what the fish sauces of the English are -now. We will give, in this work, the various preparations of this so -celebrated condiment, and the reader will then be able to judge for -himself. - -Apicius, the man of culinary progress, proposed a prize to any one who -could invent a new brine made with the liver of red mullets. History has -not transmitted to us the name of the fortunate conqueror; but Juvenal -informs us that Asinius Celer offered sixty pounds for one of these -fishes which weighed six pounds.[XXI-17] - -This was, after all, but a trifling folly, in the midst of so many -extravagances which several writers have carefully registered. Lucullus, -the most ostentatious of the patricians, had a mountain cut through in -the neighbourhood of Naples, so as to open a canal and bring up the sea -and its fishes to the centre of the gardens of his sumptuous -villa.[XXI-18] - -The love of fish became a real mania: turbots excited a _furore_ of -admiration--the _muræna Helena_ was worshipped. Hortensius, the orator, -actually wept over the death of the one he had fed with his own hands; -the daughter of Drusus ornamented hers with golden rings; each had a -name, and would come with speed when it heard the voice of the master, -whose happiness depended on his fish.[XXI-19] - -Sometimes, in a moment of over tenderness for his dear _muræna Helena_, -Vedius Pollio, a Roman knight of the highest distinction, and one of the -intimate friends of the Emperor Augustus, could find nothing better to -do than to feed them with the flesh of his slaves, who were thrown to -them alive.[XXI-20] It is true that these wretched creatures generally -deserved this terrible chastisement; for instance, Seneca speaks of one -who had the awkwardness to break a crystal vase[XXI-21] while waiting at -supper on the irascible Pollio. This unfortunate slave having managed to -escape from the hands of those who were conducting him to this horrible -death, he went and fell on his knees at the feet of Cæsar, whom he -implored to inflict some less frightful torture. Augustus, moved to the -very soul, granted him his liberty, had all of Vedius’s vases broken, -and ordered that the pieces should be used to fill up the reservoir in -which the barbarous knight fed his _muræna Helena_.[XXI-22] - -Having given this rapid sketch of the principal periods of ichthyophagy -among the ancients, little remains to be said of later ages in which we -find few traces of any particular or excessive predilection for this -kind of alimentation. If we are to believe Dio,[XXI-23] the first -inhabitants of Great Britain never eat fish. The English have not -thought it expedient to imitate their ancestors in this respect. - -Under the reign of Edward II., certain fish, especially the sturgeon, -never appeared in England except on the table of the king: it was -prohibited to all others. In 1138, Stephen wanted to modify this -interdiction; but after his reign it was again in vigour, and considered -as a royal prerogative. - -In France, anybody could eat fish, of any and all kinds; but every -fishmonger was obliged to obtain permission from the king to sell -it.[XXI-24] - -The sumptuary laws of that kingdom inform us of nothing very interesting -on this essential of gastrology. We find, however, by the Edict of 1294, -that Philip-le-Bel allowed, on fast-days, two herring-pottages, and only -one sort of fish--a meagre dinner, if ever there was one, and which, -thank heaven, has fallen into complete disuse. Louis XII. was very fond -of good cheer, and, consequently, he appointed six fishmongers to supply -his table with fresh-water fish;[XXI-25] Francis I. had -twenty-two;[XXI-26] Henry the Great, twenty-four.[XXI-27] - -Under the reign of Louis XIV. fish acquired a singular vogue in the city -as well as at court, owing to the marvellous talent of that prince’s -cook, who discovered the art, supposed to be lost, of giving to the -delicate flesh of the pike, the carp, and the trout, the shape and -flavour of the most exquisite game. - -At this period we have the celebrated Vatel, one of the most illustrious -officers of the household that ever flourished in the palace of the -Princes of Condé. This inimitable major-domo understood that a dinner -without fish was a cheerless one. One day when his noble master -entertained Louis XIV. at a royal banquet, at Chantilly, which the -genius of Vatel rendered more brilliant, the fish from the coast failed; -he sent everywhere, but none could be found. He was completely -bewildered: he met his august master, whose kind words, full of -benevolence, only served to increase his desperation; he left him, ran -to his chamber, took his sword, and three times pierced his heart. -Shortly after, fish arrived from all quarters. Vatel was called--no -Vatel! He was sought for, and at last discovered--Vatel was no more! - -It appears that, in former times, there was a remarkable consumption of -fish in England on the 4th of July, the Festival of St. Ulric. The -following verses, by Barnaby Gouge prove it:-- - - -ST. HULDRYCHE. - - “Wheresoever Huldryche hath his place, the people there brings in - Both capes and pykes, and mullets fat, his favour here to win. - Amid the church there sittieth one, and to the aultar nie, - That selleth fish, and so good cheep, that every man may buie; - Nor any thing he loseth here, bestowing thus his paine, - For when it hath beene offred once, ’tis brought him all againe, - That twise or thrise he selles the same, vngodlinesse such gaine - Both still bring in, and plentiously the kitchen doth maintaine, - Whence comes this same religion newe? What kind of God is this, - Same Huldryche here, that so desires and so delightes in fishe?”[XXI-28] - -An ordinance of King John informs us that, in the 14th century, people -eat porpoises and even seals.[XXI-29] In the days of the troubadours, -they fished for dolphins and whales in the Mediterranean, and the flesh -of these sea monsters was considered excellent.[XXI-30] - - -STURGEON. - -This enormous cartilaginous inhabitant of the ocean, the Mediterranean, -the Red, Black, and Caspian Seas, received from the Greeks, after its -death, honours in which none of the most delicate or renowned fish -participated. It was announced to the guests by the sound of trumpets; -and slaves, magnificently dressed, placed it on the table in the midst -of garlands and flowers.[XXI-31] - -Joy brightened every face; a more generous wine filled fresh goblets, -and some flatterers--for the sturgeon possessed many--with eyes fixed on -the noble accipenser, compared its flesh to the ambrosia of the -immortals.[XXI-32] - -The high price of the sturgeon contributed in no small degree to such -brilliant praise. This king of banquets would have ruined a modest -citizen of Athens, and hardly did the exiguity of its proportions permit -its figuring among the expensive rarities of an Attic supper, when it -had cost only a thousand drachms, or about £16 sterling.[XXI-33] - -The Romans, imitators and emulators of the luxury of the Greeks, were -almost equally fond of this fish; and, like them, reserved it for -princely tables, or aristocratic opulence. It would seem, however, that -the enthusiasm excited by the sturgeon somewhat cooled under the reign -of Vespasian.[XXI-34] Perhaps at this period it became more common, or -was sold at a more moderate price. Nothing more was requisite in Rome to -deprive a dish of its most brilliant vogue and most powerful patronage. - -However, the poet Martial, by nature no great flatterer, passes a -pompous eulogium on the monstrous fish,[XXI-35] and judges it worthy of -being placed on the luxurious tables of the Palatine Mount, that Westend -of Rome, rendered illustrious by the presence of kings, nobles, and -emperors.[XXI-36] - -We have before observed that the sturgeon was formerly a royal dish in -England.[XXI-37] A celebrated traveller assures us that, at the present -day, the Chinese abstain from it, and that the sovereign of the -Celestial Empire consigns it to his own kitchens, or dispenses it to a -few of his greatest favourites.[XXI-38] - -This gigantic accipenser, which often weighs two hundred pounds, is -quite common in Siberia, where they even catch some of a much larger -size, since some of the females have been found to contain two hundred -pounds weight of eggs.[XXI-39] In 1750, one was caught in Italy which -weighed 550 lbs. There are some in Norway, the head alone of which -yields a tun of oil,[XXI-40] and whose immense proportions would -formerly have astonished the most intrepid gastrophilists of Athens, -Syracuse, and Rome. - -An alimentary substance, called caviar, furnished almost exclusively by -Russia to the rest of Europe, is prepared from the spawn of several -kinds of sturgeons. - -The spawn of the large sturgeon produces caviar of an inferior quality; -that of the common sturgeon, and the sterlet, is prized as being more -delicate, when it is carefully separated from the vessels and membranes -with which it is intersected, well impregnated with brine, pressed, and -slightly dried. White caviar, it is said, is the best of all. It is -reserved for the court.[XXI-41] - -There are two sorts of caviar: granulated caviar, and sack caviar. - -The manufacture of the first named is performed by pressing the spawn on -a sieve, and rubbing it in every direction to remove the pellicles which -adhere to it, after which it is put into strong brine for one hour, then -drained in a sieve, and, finally, pressed close into barrels, so as to -entirely fill them before the head is fastened down.[XXI-42] - -The manufacture of the other kind of caviar only differs in two -particulars. The spawn is manipulated while in the brine, in order to -soften it, and it is put, in small portions of about half-a-pound each, -into linen bags, which are powerfully twisted to extract all the brine -before it is pressed into the barrels. - -The workmen employed in these operations make a third kind of caviar -with the refuse. This sort, used only by the poorest classes, deserves -no notice. - -For some years past, they have introduced the method of salting the roes -as they are taken from the fish, and packing them into barrels, where -they remain seven or eight months; after which they are again salted, -and then dried in the sun. - -Caviar occupies a very distinguished place in Russian, Turkish, German, -and Italian gastronomy. The Greeks, in particular, live upon it almost -exclusively during the long Lent fasts prescribed by their -Church.[XXI-43] - - -RED MULLET. - -Philoxenes, of Cythera, supped one night with Dionysius, tyrant of -Sicily. It happened that the prince was served with a magnificent -mullet, whereas a very small one was presented to his guest. The -philosopher took his fish in his hand, and, with a very serious air, -held it to his ear. Dionysius asked him what he was doing. “I am busy -with my Galathea,” replied Philoxenes, “and I am questioning him on the -subject of Nerea; but I can obtain no answer from him, because he was -taken at too early an age. I am certain, however, that the other, -evidently much older, which lies before you, is perfectly well -acquainted with what I wish to know.” The tyrant, who happened that -evening to be in a good humour, laughed at the joke, and offered the -larger mullet to the witty gastronomist.[XXI-44] - -The unbridled and cruel luxury of ancient Rome required that this fish -should be cooked by a slow fire, on the table and under a glass, that -the guests might gloat on its sufferings before they satiated their -appetites with its flesh.[XXI-45] It is true this barbarous -gratification was very expensive, and it was necessary to be very rich -to indulge in it--consequently it was decidedly very fashionable, quite -natural, and in the very best taste. - -Ordinary mullets weighed about 2 lbs.;[XXI-46] these hardly deserved -that their dying agonies should for an instant amuse the guests; they -were worth only about £15 or £20 each. But sometimes fortune threw in -their way much larger ones; and the opulent amateur esteemed himself -only too fortunate when he could obtain a fish of three[XXI-47] or four -pounds[XXI-48] for a much higher sum than he had paid for the slave, -tutor of his children. - -Crispinus was fond of mullets. He obtained one weighing four or six -pounds, for which the fishmonger asked only £60.[XXI-49] This was giving -it away; and certainly the man did not understand his trade. Crispinus, -on becoming the possessor of this wonderful treasure, was astonished at -his good fortune, and the whole of Rome long refused to believe it. - -In the reign of Tiberius, three of these fish were sold for 30,000 -sesterces,[XXI-50] or £209 9_s._ 8_d._; and this emperor was one day -generous enough to give up to P. Octavius, for the low price of 5,000 -sesterces, a very fine mullet which had just been presented to -him.[XXI-51] - -And yet some persons of culinary authority paid but little attention to -the flesh of this delicate fish; they sought only the liver and head; -and if they paid for it so dearly, it was solely to find some few -mouthfuls more in these two parts,[XXI-52] to which caprice, enthusiasm, -that fever of admiration, and we know not what extraordinary gastronomic -rage, gave an inestimable price, which at the present day excites only a -smile of incredulity. - -Pliny speaks of a mullet caught in the red sea, which weighed eighty -pounds.[XXI-53] “At how much,” adds this great naturalist, “would it -have been valued had they caught it in the environs of Rome!” We may -suppose, without the least exaggeration, that many a senator would have -offered £1,500 to become its possessor. - -It is thus that the mistress of the world foolishly dissipated in -ephemeral whims the immense treasures poured into her lap by tributary -kings--conquered and spoliated nations. Each day her patricians, -knights, and nobles, tired of their importunate opulence, solicited new -diversions, and invented new excesses. The mullet for a moment satisfied -their prodigality, and amused their barbarity; but Heliogabalus -appeared, and he imagined prodigies of gluttony which excited at once -admiration and envy. The liver of this fish appeared to him too paltry; -he took it into his head to be served with large dishes completely -filled with the gills.[XXI-54] Now, we know that the mullet possesses -only two. This dish, whose price would have enriched a hundred families, -was worthy of the Sardanapalus of Rome, who, at the age of eighteen, had -exhausted the treasures of the empire, and whom a violent death seized -most _à propos_, at the moment when he had attained the extreme limits -of crime and infamy. - -The Romans served the mullet with a seasoning of pepper, rue, onions, -dates, and mustard, to which they added the flesh of the sea hedge-hog -reduced to a pulp, and oil.[XXI-55] - -When the liver alone was to be eaten, it was cooked, and then seasoned -with pepper, salt, or a little garum--some oil was added, and hare’s or -fowl’s liver, and then oil was poured over the whole.[XXI-56] - -The Greeks knew how to appreciate the mullet. They thought highly of -those caught on their own shores[XXI-57], and placed them in the first -rank of the most exquisite dishes of their delicate cookery. - -“It is with the eggs of mullets, when salted, pressed, washed, and -dried, that the preparation known as _botargo_ or _botarcha_ is made. It -is very _recherché_ in Italy, and other southern countries, as a -seasoning.”--DR. CLOQUET. - - -SEA-EEL. - -The sumptuous abode of L. Crassus echoes with his sighs and groans. His -children and slaves respect his profound sorrow, and leave him with -intelligent affection to solitude--that friend of great grief; so -grateful to the afflicted soul, because tears can flow unwitnessed. -Alas! the favourite sea-eel of Crassus is dead, and it is uncertain -whether Crassus can survive it! - -This sensitive Roman caused this beloved fish to be buried with great -magnificence: he raised a monument to its memory, and never ceased to -mourn for it.[XXI-58] - -This man, who displayed so little tenderness towards his servants, had -an extraordinary weakness concerning his fine sea-eels. He passed his -life beside the superb fish-pond, where he lovingly fattened them from -his own hand. Ornamented with necklaces of the finest pearls, and -earrings of precious stones,[XXI-59] all, at a signal, swam towards him; -several fearlessly took the food he offered them; and some, as familiar -as their absent and regretted companion, allowed their master to caress -them without seeking to bite or avoid him.[XXI-60] - -This singular passion, which at the present day we can hardly believe, -in spite of the respectable authority of the most serious writers, was -very common at Rome, amongst those who were rich enough to rear such -fish. C. Hirtius was the first to construct fish ponds on the sea shore, -to which many visitors were attracted by their magnificence.[XXI-61] The -family of Licinius took their surname of _Muræna_ from these fish, in -order thus to perpetuate the most silly affection, and the remembrance -of their insanity.[XXI-62] - -Sea-eels necessarily pleased men cloyed with pleasures, and who -substituted a kind of cold and cruel curiosity for the terrible emotions -which beings peculiarly organized hope to find in evil-doing: -gladiators murdering each other; lions or tigers lacerating the -_bestiarii_; all these agonies of the amphitheatre had long since lost -the attraction of novelty. It was a much more exciting spectacle to -witness a swarm of sea-eels tearing to pieces an awkward or rebellious -slave; besides, it greatly improved the fish. The atrocious Vedius -Pollio, who understood these matters, never failed to have sea-eels -served him after their odious repast, that he might have the pleasure of -eating some part of the body of his victim.[XXI-63] - -Thank Heaven! however, some amateurs of this dreaded fish were not so -barbarous; they fattened them very well without having recourse to such -criminal food. Veal was cut into thin slices, and steeped in the blood -of the animal for ten days, after which the fish greedily regaled -themselves with it.[XXI-64] - -It was, doubtless, in this manner that the skilful speculator, -Hirtius,--the same already mentioned--nourished his sea-eels, which -produced him an immense revenue. His fish ponds contained so great a -number that he was able to offer six thousand to Julius Cæsar on the -occasion of the public feast that general gave the day of his triumphal -return from the conquest of Gaul.[XXI-65] - -The greater part of the Roman emperors were exceedingly fond of -sea-eels. The greedy Vitellius, growing tired of this dish, would at -last only eat the soft roes: and numerous vessels ploughed the seas in -order to obtain them for him.[XXI-66] This exquisite rarity again -appeared too common to the maniac child, who dismayed and astonished -Rome for the space of three years. Heliogabalus brought the soft roe of -the sea eel into disrepute by ordering that the peasants of the -Mediterranean should be gorged with it.[XXI-67] This folly amused him, -and only cost several millions. That was a trifle when compared with the -blood which almost always flowed to satisfy his whims. - -The Greeks and Latins thought much of sea-eels caught in the straits of -Sicily.[XXI-68] They were sometimes served surrounded with -crawfish;[XXI-69] but more frequently they were dressed with a seasoning -much in fashion, composed of pepper, alisander, savory, saffron, onion, -and stoned Damascus plums. These various substances were mixed together, -and to them were added wine, sweet sun-made wine, old wine reduced by -boiling, garum, vinegar, and oil.[XXI-70] - -At Rome the fish market was abundantly supplied with sea-eels from the -Tiber. Connoisseurs thought nothing of them;[XXI-71] they were sold at -a low price, and their disgrace became complete directly they appeared -on plebeian tables. - -The Egyptians venerated this fish, and always esteemed it sacred.[XXI-72] -Among the Sybarites, just appreciators of its culinary qualities, the -fishers and sellers of sea-eels were exempt from all taxes.[XXI-73] They -often procured some of such enormous size, that we should be tempted to -accuse the old chroniclers of exaggeration, if we were not aware that -this animal attains considerable dimensions. In the year 1786 a sea-eel -was taken in the Elbe, weighing sixty pounds. This extraordinary fish -measured seven feet two inches in length, and twenty-five inches in the -girth.[XXI-74] - - -LAMPREY. - -In spite of its soft and viscid flesh, this fish occupied in Rome a most -honourable rank among the multitudinous dishes which intemperance was -ever augmenting, and preference was given to that species caught by -enterprising speculators in that strait which separates Sicily from -Italy. These good people averred that lampreys which rise to the surface -of the sea are immediately dried up by the sun, and cannot any more -descend to the depths of the ocean.[XXI-75] This little story did no -harm to their sale; on the contrary, they became on that account more -curiously interesting. - -It was also said, and the serious Gesner himself has repeated this -fable:[XXI-76] That if the fish fastens its mouth to the side of a -vessel it immediately stops, and that the combined power of the wind and -the efforts of the rowers are unavailing.[XXI-77] The fact is that, by -means of a kind of suction, it can fasten firmly on any bodies; and one -weighing only three pounds has been seen to sustain in the air, with its -mouth, a stone weighing twelve pounds.[XXI-78] - -The lamprey has not always been the fashion, but it has had brilliant -and glorious epochs. In 1135 it caused so great a fit of indigestion to -Henry I., King of England, that that prince died in consequence of -it.[XXI-79] Since then, in the 16th century, it has been honoured with -the reputation of having caused more than one death.[XXI-80] It was sold -at a very high price, £3 at least, and at certain periods the Roman -nobles even paid as much as £20 for one of these fish.[XXI-81] The -ancient metropolis of the world had sometimes strange reminiscences of -her former grandeur. - -The Italian epicures of that remarkable era used to kill the lamprey in -Candian wine. A nutmeg was placed in the mouth, and a clove in each of -the openings of the gills. They rolled them round in a saucepan, and -after adding crushed almonds, bread crumbs, Candian wine, and spices, -the whole was cooked over a slow fire.[XXI-82] - - -SEA-WOLF. - -Hicesius, one of the most estimable ichthyophagists of antiquity, does -not hesitate to place the sea-wolf above all the fish which by their -excellence were dear to Greece;[XXI-83] and the great Archestratus says, -that the _lubridan_ (a species of the sea-wolf) is a child of the -gods.[XXI-84] - -The Romans, touched no doubt by these magnificent praises, granted to -the sea-wolf that favour which a high reputation commands. The immense -sturgeon itself was eclipsed by it, and the sea-wolf had the glory of -throwing this powerful and renowned rival into oblivion.[XXI-85] - -Their love for its white and tender flesh knew no bounds,[XXI-86] and -the fishermen of the Tiber were no longer equal to the task of supplying -them for the impatient gluttony of the rich inhabitants of the Palatine -Mount. Still this fish only fetched a high price when taken in a certain -part of the river; from any other place it hardly commanded a few _as_ -(pence). Between the Sublicius and Senatorius bridges, a deep, black, -and fetid water announced the presence of the continual flood of filth -which the giant city poured into it night and day. It was in the midst -of these impurities that shoals of sea-wolves were seen disporting; they -fattened on that shocking slime, and thence passed to the delicate -tables of Lucullus and Cæsar.[XXI-87] - -The Greeks contented themselves with lubridans taken in clear water, and -preferred the head to any other part.[XXI-88] - - -SCARUS, OR, PARROT-FISH. - -The scarus--its modern name is still problematic--furnished the Greeks -with one of those exquisite dishes the remembrance of which never dies. -The Romans were not yet acquainted with it, when Octavius, the commander -of a fleet, brought on board the vessels a great quantity of this fish, -which he ordered to be thrown into the sea along the coast of Campania, -and which soon became the delight of the epicures of Rome.[XXI-89] -History has shown too much disdain by neglecting to say more than a few -passing words on the subject of this great service. May a tardy homage -of gratitude be paid to the memory of the benefactor of his country. - -The scarus was prepared without being embowelled, and epicures found it -impossible to satiate themselves with the entrails,[XXI-90] which -obtained for it a gastronomic vogue it long enjoyed without a -rival.[XXI-91] It was asserted that the fish ruminates;[XXI-92] that it -feeds only on herbage;[XXI-93] and that, far from being mute, like the -other inhabitants of the water, it not only emits sounds, but is able to -express by its cries the different sensations it experiences.[XXI-94] -These anomalies, either real or supposed, had, perhaps, as great a share -in rendering the scarus celebrated, as the delicacy of its flesh, and -the exquisite flavour of its intestines. Merit the most real can so -rarely keep the field unsupported by cajollery. - - -TURBOT. - -Rome and Italy were indebted to the prætor, Sempronius, or to Rufus -Rutilius,[XXI-95] for the turbot, which they taught their countrymen to -appreciate. This fish quickly obtained the success which it merited, and -was compared to the pheasant, as soles were likened to partridges, -lampreys to quails, and sturgeons to peacocks. Some preferred turbot -from the Adriatic Sea, others that of Ravenna;[XXI-96] but all united in -declaring that there was not a more delicious food, and that a feast -loses all its charm when this delicacy is wanting. - -In the reign of Domitian a monstrous turbot was taken; such a one had -never been seen in the imperial kitchens.[XXI-97] The emperor convoked -the senate, and deferred to them to decide in what dish it should be -cooked, in order that it might be served whole. The deliberation was -long and stormy; all Rome was in a state of expectancy; and the august -assembly strove to prove itself worthy of the high confidence reposed in -it by Cæsar. At length the illustrious old men were tolerably unanimous -in their idea that the best way would be to make a dish expressly for -the fish--since there was none large enough ready-made--and also that a -stove should be constructed vast enough to allow the dish to be placed -commodiously upon it.[XXI-98] - -The emperor, the city, and the court applauded the profound wisdom of -this decision; and “_le turbot fut mis à la sauce piquante_.”[XXI-99] - -Aristotle does not mention this fish; but his compatriots esteemed -highly the turbots of Attica.[XXI-100] - - -TUNNY. - -The Greeks greatly praised the tunny fish of Pachynum.[XXI-101] Persons -who prided themselves on their knowledge in the art of good living, eat -only the belly part,[XXI-102] and never touched the remainder. - -The Synopians formerly gained immense sums by the tunny fishery along -their shores,[XXI-103] the effigy of which, perhaps in gratitude, they -stamped on their money. This fish came from Palus Meotides, and passed -thence to Trebizond and Pharnacia, whence it followed the coast of -Sinopus, and, at length, reached Byzantium, where they took nearly all -those which escaped the fisheries of the two first-named -stations.[XXI-104] - -The Romans offered tunny fish in sacrifice to Neptune, in order that -that god might deign to prevent the _xiphias_ fish from tearing their -nets, and forbid the too officious dolphins to assist in their -escape.[XXI-105] They sold it at a very good price during the autumn and -winter; but it fetched less in summer because it was thought to be -unwholesome during that season.[XXI-106] The jole and belly were thought -the most delicate parts.[XXI-107] They were either fried or boiled, with -pepper, alisander, cummin, onion, mint, sage, and dates, to which was -added a mixture of honey, vinegar, oil, and mustard.[XXI-108] - -Archestratus, who, on account of his gastronomic voyages, was looked -upon as a high authority, asserts that Sicily and the neighbourhood of -Constantinople furnished excellent tunny fish; but that the best were -those from Samos.[XXI-109] These latter were much renowned among the -Greeks, who carefully prepared the entrails, and feasted on this dish. -Athenæus relates, on this subject, a witticism of the poet Dorio, a keen -and caustic spirit of the period of Aristotle and Philip of Macedon. -Being at supper with that prince, a guest ridiculously praised a dish -of tunny-fish intestines, just placed on the table. “They are certainly -excellent,” said Doric, “when eaten as I eat them.” “How, then, do you -eat them?” rejoined the gastronomic courtier. “With the firm -determination,” replied the poet, “of thinking of nothing -better.”[XXI-110] - -This fish abounds in certain seas, and Pliny avers that it obstructed -the navigation of the Indian Sea to such an extent, that the fleet of -Alexander the Great was obliged to change its course, in order to avoid -this impassable barrier.[XXI-111] - -Tunny fish sometimes attain an immense size. Father Cetti tells us, that -some were caught in Sardinia weighing no less than 1,000 lbs., and -sometimes even 1,800 lbs.[XXI-112] - - -CONGER-EEL. - -Near Sicyona, a city of the Peloponnesus,[XXI-113] they formerly caught -conger-eels of such immense size, that it required a waggon drawn by -oxen to carry a single one.[XXI-114] The body, the whole of the head, -and even the intestines[XXI-115] were eaten. This dish, worthy of being -offered by Neptune to his divine colleagues, was capable, like ambrosia, -of bestowing immortality on those who had the good fortune of tasting -it, and the dead would return to life, had it been possible to serve -them with a piece of this exquisite fish.[XXI-116] - -These childish exaggerations have not prevented Galen from treating the -conger-eel with very little respect: he affirms, that nothing is more -hard or indigestible.[XXI-117] And, indeed, epicureans of some repute -allowed only the head to appear on their tables;[XXI-118] and then only -at rare intervals, and under the auspices of a relishing sauce which -assured its reception. - -The Romans had still less esteem for this too highly praised fish. -However, sometimes a fried conger-eel occupied on the _sigma_ an obscure -place, in the midst of a seasoning flavoured highly with pepper, -alisander, cummin, wild marjoram, dried onion, and hard yolks of eggs; -with which a skilful hand carefully mixed to the whole, vinegar, sweet -wine, garum, and cooked wine.[XXI-119] - - -EEL. - -In some parts of Egypt the eel was not eaten, because it was thought -indigestible.[XXI-120] In other places it received religious -worship.[XXI-121] They were ornamented, whether they liked it or not, -with silver, gold, and precious stones, and priests daily offered them -the entrails of animals and cheese.[XXI-122] - -The Greeks thought highly of eels. “Behold the Helen of feasts!” cried -Eidicastes, at the moment when one was served; “I will be her -Paris!”[XXI-123] and the glutton seized and devoured it immediately. - -Bœotia--where this fish was immolated to the gods[XXI-124]--the -straits of Sicily,[XXI-125] and the Copian lake, furnished eels -remarkable for their delicacy and size;[XXI-126] these were served fried -and enveloped in beet leaves.[XXI-127] They enjoyed a high reputation -among the Sybarites, a choice nation, who would have invented cookery if -the art had not already existed, and among whom a repast was so serious -a matter, that a whole year was not thought too long in order to -meditate upon it and get it ready.[XXI-128] - -But Hippocrates did not like the eel, and he forbade it to his patients, -and to persons attacked with a pulmonary affection.[XXI-129] So that -this Queen of Luxury, as Archestrates calls it,[XXI-130] met with as -many enemies as partisans. Egypt adored it, Greece was enamoured of it, -Rome despised it, and the plebeian alone reserved it to the humiliation -in his brutal orgies.[XXI-131] - -Apicius, however, has condescended to notice this fish. Mix, says he, -pepper, alisander, parsley seed, dill, and dates; add to this honey, -vinegar, garum, oil, mustard, and cooked wine;[XXI-132] serve this sauce -with the eel. - -Nations have their ages of splendour--viands have their epochs of -celebrity and glory. This one seems to us fast falling into decay, in -spite of some isolated efforts in order to make it reflourish. - -When Rockingham was named member of parliament, he ordered thirteen -barrels of eels to be brought to London, for the banquet he gave on that -occasion.[XXI-133] No one to our knowledge has since prepared so -gigantic a _matelote_. - -Travellers formerly saw in the Ganges beautiful eels 300 feet -long[XXI-134]--a magnificent species never seen in Europe. - -“The eel, so much despised by the Romans, is rather in favour in several -countries; certain species are much esteemed, that named _Guiseau_, -among others, deserves the preference it always obtains at -Rouen.”--BOSC. - - -PIKE. - -The pike was very little esteemed by ancient gastronomists, who viewed -it only as an ignoble inhabitant of muddy water, and the implacable -enemy of frogs.[XXI-135] It was a received opinion that this despotic -ruler of ponds lived for several centuries, and it may be correct. - -Among the examples of longevity of this fish, the most remarkable is -that of the pike of _kaisers’-lantern_, which was nineteen feet long, -weighed 350 lbs., and had lived at least 235 years. It is reported that -the Emperor Barbarossa himself threw it, on the 5th of October, 1262, -into the pond where it was caught in 1497; and that this enormous pike -wore a golden ring, which was made so that it would expand, and on which -was engraved the date when the fish was spawned. Its skeleton was for a -long time preserved at Mannheim.[XXI-136] - -The multiplication of pikes would be immense if the spawn and pickrel, -in the first year of their existence, were not the prey of several other -fishes; for it has been calculated that in a female pike of middling -size 184,000 eggs were found. - -“In the north, and particularly in Siberia, the pike is preserved salted -and smoked; the largest only are used, those weighing about two pounds. -When they have been drawn, cleaned, and washed, they are cut in pieces, -stratified with salt, in barrels. A brine is formed in which they are -left for three days, then they are dried or smoked for one month. After -this time they are put in another barrel, with fresh salt, wetted with -vinegar.”--BOSC. - - -CARP. - -The carp occupied a very honourable rank with the Greeks and Latins, but -only as a fish of the second order.[XXI-137] At Athens, they picked out -the bones and stuffed it with silphium, cheese, salt, and -marjoram.[XXI-138] The Romans boiled it and mixed it with sows’ paps, -fowls’ flesh, fig-peckers, or thrushes; and when the whole was made into -a kind of pulp, they added raw eggs and oil; then they sprinkled it over -with pepper and alisander; after which they poured wine, garum, and -cooked wine over it; and when the culinary combination was completed in -the stewpan, by the assistance of a slow fire, it was then thickened -with flour.[XXI-139] - -In several countries it is known at what period the carp was -naturalized. Peter Marshall brought it to England in 1514; Peter Oxe to -Denmark in 1560. A few years after, it was introduced into Holland and -Sweden. The fecundity of this fish is surprising; no less than 621,600 -eggs were found in a carp weighing nine pounds; and it is very -long-lived. Several have been seen in the moats of the castle of -Ponchartrain, which were proved to be 150 years old. Carp are capable of -acquiring considerable dimensions. The most gigantic on record was that -caught at Bisshofs-hause, near Frankfort on the Oder; it weighed 70 -lbs.[XXI-140] - - -EEL-POUT. - -The liver of the eel-pout (also known by the names, _lota_, _lote_, and -_lotus_) is particularly large, and so delicate that a certain Countess -of Beuchlingen squandered a large portion of her income to gratify her -taste for them.[XXI-141] That lady, worthy, by her refined and antique -taste, of the proudest period of Roman extravagance, was, perhaps, not -aware that the most fastidious epicureans of Italy, enthusiastic -admirers of the liver of this fish,[XXI-142] had it served with a sauce -composed of vinegar, grated cheese, and garlic; to which they added -leeks and onions, chopped fine.[XXI-143] - - -TROUT. - -Elian speaks of a fish found in the river Astræus, in -Macedonia,[XXI-144] which Gesner believed to be identical with the -trout. It does not appear, however, that the Greeks knew the real value -and merit of this fish; but on the other hand, the Romans assigned to it -the foremost rank, next to the sturgeon, red mullets, and the sea-eel, -especially when they had been fattened in the thick waters of the Tiber, -on the very spot where the labridans acquired their plumpness and -value.[XXI-145] - -The trout was dressed like the preceding fish. - - -GOLD FISH. - -This fish, dear to the Greeks,[XXI-146] had the honour of giving its -name to the celebrated icythyophagist, Sergius, who was passionately -fond of it, and who took the name Orata (from _Aurata_--gold fish), to -preserve in his family the remembrance of his gluttony or of his -affection.[XXI-147] His compatriots, the Romans, highly valued the gold -fish,[XXI-148] and sought with eagerness those which had fed on the -shell fish of the lake of Lucrin[XXI-149]--that precious reservoir -between Baiæ and Cumæ, which never deceived the hopes of the -gastronomist, nor the greedy expectations of the fishermen.[XXI-150] - -The gold fish was served with a gravy composed of pepper, alisander, -carrots, wild marjoram, rue, mint, myrtle leaves, and yolk of eggs; -mixed with honey, vinegar, oil, wine, and garum.[XXI-151] The slow -cooking of these various ingredients gave them the required -homogeneousness. - - -WHITING. - -The flesh of this _gadus_ is so light that, according to an old French -proverb, the “_Merlans mangée ne pèsant non plus dans l’estomac que -pendus à la ceinture_.”[XXI-152] “Whitings weigh no more when eaten than -when hung to the girdle.” Nevertheless, the Greeks did not think much of -it, and they said that the whiting was only good for those who could not -obtain more delicate fish.[XXI-153] - -The Romans, less severe or not quite so particular, cooked their -whitings with a sauce composed as follows:--put with the fish, in a -stewpan, some garum, chopped leeks, cummin, savory, and a sufficient -quantity of cooked wine, and some wine slightly diluted; cook it on a -slow fire.[XXI-154] - - -COD FISH. - -The cod fish supplied the ancients with the most exquisite dish next to -the sturgeon.[XXI-155] The only fault found with it was, that it cost -less than others. The Greek cooks sprinkled it with grated cheese, -moistened with vinegar; then they threw over it a pinch of salt and a -few drops of oil.[XXI-156] Persons with delicate stomachs did not -scruple to partake of this aliment, which Galen warranted as being -excellent.[XXI-157] - -The average size of this fish is about three feet in length; but some -are found of ten feet. The common weight is fifteen pounds, and some -have been seen weighing 60lbs. Leuwenhoek has said that 9,344,000 eggs -had been found in one fish. It is probable he made a mistake, as a cod -fish of our days, weighing 50lbs., produced only 3,686,000 eggs--a -number sufficiently prodigious, and which shows pretty well its great -fecundity.[XXI-158] - -It is supposed that the discovery of the great and small banks of cod -fish is due to the Basque fishermen, who arrived there in pursuit of -whales, one hundred years before Columbus’ voyage. Others give that -honour to James Cartier, a native of Falkland Islands. - -“As early as the 14th century, the English and the inhabitants of -Amsterdam busied themselves with cod fishing; and later, the Irish, -Norwegians, French, and Spaniards competed with them more or less -successfully. In 1533, Francis I. having sent J. Verrazzano, and -afterwards, Jacques Cartier, to explore the neighbourhood of -Newfoundland, the French fishermen followed them, and brought back also -this fish from those distant countries in the beginning of the 16th -century. - -“Man annually seizes upon a prodigious quantity of cods, and were it not -for the immense extent of the means of reproduction allowed to it by -nature, the species for a long time past would have been annihilated. It -is even hardly conceived how it has been possible to preserve it; for it -is well known, that as early as 1368, the inhabitants of Amsterdam had -brought up fishermen on the coast of Sweden; and, in the first quarter -of 1792, according to a report presented to the minister, Roland, at the -National Convention, that, from the ports of France only, 210 vessels, -forming together 191,158 tons, went out for the cod fisheries; and that -every year more than 10,000 vessels of all nations employed at this -trade, throw in the commercial world more than 40,000,000 of salted and -dried cod. If we add to this enumeration the havoc made among the -legions of these fishes by the great _squales_, sharks, and others, -besides the destruction of a multitude of young ones by the other -inhabitants of the seas and sea birds, together with the myriads of eggs -destroyed by accident, it really is extraordinary to see this fish in so -great a quantity now; but who can wonder, since each female can every -year give birth to more than 9,000,000 of young ones.”--DR. CLOQUET. - - -PERCH. - -The Greeks were acquainted with the perch.[XXI-159] Diocles used to give -the flesh to the sick;[XXI-160] Xenocrates extolled those from the -Rhine;[XXI-161] and Ausonius, the poet, has sung the praises of those -fed in the Moselle.[XXI-162] - -With the Romans, this fish obtained a renown almost equal to that -bestowed on the trout; and all eyes bespoke its welcome at supper, when -it appeared on the table, covered with a seasoning in which pepper, -alisander, cummin, and onions were artistically combined with stoned -Damascus plums--thanks to the clever use of wine, vinegar, sweet wine, -oil, and cooked wine. This ingenious amalgamation acquired over a slow -fire the requisite consistence and cohesion.[XXI-163] - - -SCATE. - -The ancients liked or disliked scate, according to the places where they -eat it. So, now, this fish is rejected in Sardinia, and thought -excellent in London and Paris.[XXI-164] - -The Greek gastronomists of fashion sometimes partook of the back of the -scate;[XXI-165] the remainder seemed unworthy of their attention, and a -certain poet maintains that a piece of stuff, boiled, offers to the -palate a flavour quite as agreeable.[XXI-166] - -Italian gluttony always gave a cold reception to this dish, which they -owed to the Greek cooks, and which their magiric writers have not -sufficiently studied. - -Aristotle knew of two species of scate;[XXI-167] Pliny speaks of -them;[XXI-168] Lacépède enumerates thirty-nine species.[XXI-169] - -That celebrated naturalist, Buffon’s pupil and competitor, assures us -that several eastern nations consider the smoke arising from the eggs of -scates, thrown on burning coals, and inhaled by the mouth and nostrils, -as an excellent remedy against intermittent fever.[XXI-170] It would -cost but little to make the experiment. - - -SALMON. - -It is reported that the salmon was thus named on account of its frequent -leaping.[XXI-171] It has been sung by Ausonius.[XXI-172] Its absence -left a chasm in the delights of Greece, and it was late before it became -known in Rome. Pliny is the first of Latin authors who name it.[XXI-173] -Ichthyophagy will cherish the memory of this laborious author. He speaks -with praise of the salmon taken in the Garonne and Dordogne. He extols -those of the Rhine, but he seems to give a decided preference to those -magnificent fishes covered with a silvery mail, which disport in the -limpid waters of that picturesque and beautiful Aquitaine.[XXI-174][L] - -Two centuries ago, there was such a great quantity of salmon taken in -the rivers of Scotland, that, instead of being considered a delicate -dish, it served commonly as food for servants, who it is said, -stipulated sometimes, that they should not be obliged to eat that -common, tasteless aliment more than five times per week.[XXI-175] - - -SEPIA, OR, CUTTLE-FISH. - -Pliny has extolled the constancy of conjugal affection in the -cuttle-fish, and the courage with which the male defends his companion -in the moment of danger.[XXI-176] The poet Persius describes its flight, -protected by the thick, black liquid with which it blinds its enemies. -Apicius, struck more by its succulent qualities, opens this fish, -empties it, and stuffs it with cooked brains, to which he adds raw eggs -and pepper; he then boils it in a seasoning of pepper, alisander, -parsley seed, and cooked wine, mixed with honey, wine, and -garum.[XXI-177] Thus prepared, the cuttle-fish passed at Rome as an -estimable dish, and which might be offered at an unpretending repast. - - -SWORDFISH. - -The Greeks were fond of the swordfish, and often partook of it,[XXI-178] -with a sauce of which oil was the basis, and with which were mixed yolks -of eggs, leeks, garlic, and cheese.[XXI-179] The Romans thought very -little of this fish, and prayed Neptune to send it far from their nets. - - -SHAD. - -The shad was caught during the summer, and sold to the people,[XXI-180] -who boiled it and dished it up with strong herbs and oil. This plebeian -fish was excluded from all respectable banquets.[Y] - -“Modern taste has allowed this estimable fish to re-appear on the -table, where it is always seen with pleasure. This fish is caught in -most of the great rivers of Europe, Asia, and northern Africa.”--BOSC. - - -RHOMBO, OR, RHOMBUS. - -The rhombo claimed the attention of the discriminating ichthyophagists -of Rome by the delicacy of its flesh, and few fish would have been -preferred to it had it not been feared that it rendered digestion -difficult.[XXI-181] Some intrepid stomachs, however, greeted this dish -without much repugnance when presented to them fried and sprinkled with -pepper, in the midst of a seasoning in which pepper, cummin, coriander, -benzoin, wild marjoram, and rue, heightened by a little vinegar, were -mixed with dates, honey, cooked wine, and oil. This boiling sauce was -poured over the rhombo, but not before it had been enriched with -garum,[XXI-182] which we had almost forgotten--that inevitable brine -which the ancient magiric genius placed everywhere, and whose prodigious -renown ought to have preserved it from oblivion. - - -MUGIL. - -This fish, singular instrument of a punishment invented by -Rome,[XXI-183] entered into the bill of fare of a fashionable supper, -but one without that magnificence which a feast of parade exacts. It was -prepared with pepper, alisander, cummin, onion, mint, rue, sage, and -dates, mixed with honey, vinegar, mustard, and oil.[XXI-184] - -The Greeks also esteemed mugils, and gave a preference to those sold by -the fishermen of Scyathus.[XXI-185] - - -MACKEREL. - -Commentators do not agree on the origin of this word. Scaliger, who -perceived Greek in everything, says it is derived from _makarios_, -“happy.” But, then, in what does the felicity of this fish consist? The -old writer Belon, more wise in his conjecture, thinks this word comes -from the Latin, _macularelli_, “little spots,” because it is marked on -the back with black stripes.[XXI-186] - -Let the etymology be what it may, the epicurean cares very little about -it. Mackerel was much liked in Greece, where it was believed to be a -native of the Hellespont;[XXI-187] and throughout Italy, where it was -supposed to come originally from Spain.[XXI-188] - -It is very probable that from mackerel was obtained one of the varieties -of garum, known by the name of _garum sociorum_. Further on, we intend -to devote a special chapter to the subject of this celebrated condiment. - -“Neither the size nor the weapons of mackerel make them formidable; they -have, however, a violent appetite, and on account, perhaps, of the -confidence they feel in the number of each shoal, they are bold and -voracious, frequently attack fishes larger and stronger than themselves, -and even dart with blind audacity upon the fishermen who bathe where -they happen to be. Thus Pontoppidan relates that a sailor, bathing in -the port of Carcule, in Norway, missing one of his companions, saw him a -few minutes afterwards dead, the body mangled and covered with a -multitude of mackerel, tearing his remains to pieces.”--DR. CLOQUET. - - -HADDOCK. - -The haddock, like the sturgeon, was surrounded with the ridiculous -honours of an almost divine pomp.[XXI-189] It was served interwoven with -garlands, and trumpeters accompanied the slaves who, with uncovered -heads and foreheads crowned with flowers, brought to the guests this -dish, the merit of which was, perhaps, exaggerated by capricious -fancies.[XXI-190] - - -TENCH. - -Ausonius, who lived in the 4th century of the Christian era, is the -first who has spoken of the tench, in his poem of the -“_Mostella_.”[XXI-191] It was abandoned to the common people, who alone -feasted on it.[XXI-192] This fish, long the victim of an unjust disdain, -ultimately conquered from the great that esteem which they at first -refused to it. - - -DRAGON WEAVER. - -The dragon weaver traversed unseen the long and brilliant gastronomic -period of the Romans. Greece rendered it more justice;[XXI-193] but its -too modest qualities were not able to preserve it from forgetfulness and -indifference. - - -LOLIGO. - -At Rome the loligo, a species of cuttle-fish, was sometimes served with -pepper and rue, mixed with garum, honey, sweet wine boiled, and a few -drops of oil.[XXI-194] - - -SOLE. - -This fish, which the Greeks caught on the coast,[XXI-195] was much -sought after on account of the delicacy of its nourishing and light -flesh.[XXI-196] The flounder, the brill, the diamond and Dutch plaice, -which, together with the sole, were known under the general name of -_passeres_, enjoyed an equal esteem, and had attributed to them the same -qualities. - - -ANGEL-FISH. - -In Holland there are angel fish of enormous size;[XXI-197] and -Aldrovandus relates that some have been seen which weighed as much as -160 lbs.[XXI-198] In the time of this naturalist the common people did -not eat them very willingly. - - -FILE-FISH. - -The flesh of this species of the _bulistes_ is only good when fried, -according to Marcgrave. Columella thinks much of it,[XXI-199] and Pliny -ranks it among the _saxatiles_, the most esteemed by -connoisseurs.[XXI-200] - - -PILCHARD. - -Among the Greeks this fish was considered only as fit for the people. -Those from the environs of Phaleres were much esteemed, when left only -an instant in boiling oil.[XXI-201] The Romans, who gave them the first -rank among salt fish,[XXI-202] stuffed them, in order to render them -better, in the following manner:--[XXI-203] - -They bruised pennyroyal, cummin, pepper, mint, and pine nuts; these they -mixed with honey, and with this paste they filled the anchovy, after -having carefully boned them. They then wrapped them in paper,[M] and -cooked them in a _bain-marie_, or saucepan, immersed in boiling water. -They were served with oil, dregs of fish-brine, and cooked -wine.[XXI-204] - - -LOACH. - -The Greeks liked loaches,[XXI-205] but many abstained from eating them, -lest the Syrian goddess, the protectress of these fishes, should gnaw -their legs, cover their bodies with ulcers, and devour their -liver.[XXI-206] - -The inhabitants of Italy, free from this singular superstition, cleaned -the loaches, left them some time in oil, then placed them in a saucepan -with some more oil, garum, wine, and several bunches of rue and wild -marjoram. Then these bunches were thrown away, and the fish was -sprinkled with pepper at the moment of serving.[XXI-207] - - -GUDGEON. - -The gudgeon--thought excellent by every one, but which no one -mentions--appeared with honour in the most magnificent repasts at -Athens.[XXI-208] At Rome, it was served fried, at the beginning of -supper;[XXI-209] and it disposed the guests to attack boldly the -culinary _corps de réserve_, which took up the position as soon as the -skirmish with the gudgeon was over. - -“This fish is in abundance, principally in France and Germany; it is -very good, and easily digested. They are served either fried or stewed; -when done as last-mentioned, they must be drawn and wiped dry, put in a -flat stewpan with butter, salt, pepper, good red wine, spring onions, -mushrooms, shalots, thyme, bay leaves and basil--these last plants -chopped very fine; stew the whole a quarter of an hour, and -serve.”--BOSC. - - -HERRING. - -Herrings were unknown in Greece and Rome. Bosc says it is a manna that -nature doubtless reserved for the northern nations, which they, however, -have only turned to account in modern times. - -The first herring fishery known in Europe was on the coast of Scotland; -but that nation knew not how to profit by the treasure that the sea -offered them. All the Scotch historians mention this fishery, the -produce of which was bought by the Dutch. This transaction took place -under the reign of King Alfred, about the year 836. - -After some time the Scotch quarrelled with the Dutch, who undertook the -herring fishery themselves. As they caught a great many more than they -could consume, they salted them, and sold them in foreign countries. -Such was the origin of that immense commerce, which had its rise, -according to Eidous, about the year 1320, a short time after the Teutons -had established themselves in the Baltic. - -It is said that we owe the art of salting and barreling herrings to a -Dutch fisherman, named William Beuckels, who died in 1449. The Dutch -nation raised a mausoleum to his memory; and it is asserted that Charles -V., who visited it in 1536, eat a herring upon it to render homage to -the author of a precious discovery. - -In the year 1610, Sir Walter Raleigh gave a statistical account of the -commerce carried on by the Dutch in Russia, Germany, Flanders, and -France, with the herrings caught on the coasts of England, Scotland, -and Ireland. The sale of this fish amounted, in one year, to the sum of -£2,650,000. - -It has been erroneously thought that the herring was the _halec_, or, -_alec_, of the Romans. This name was given by them to a kind of -brine;[XXI-210] it was not the name of any particular fish. - -There are two prevalent methods of preserving herrings, and fishmongers -sell them under the denominations of salted herrings and red herrings. - -The process employed for the first-named is as follows:-- - -As soon as the herring is out of the sea, a sailor opens it, removes the -gills and the entrails, washes the fish in salt water, and puts it into -a brine thick enough for it to float. After fifteen or eighteen hours, -it is taken out of the brine and laid in a tub with a quantity of salt. -It remains in this tub until the port is reached. There the herrings are -placed in barrels, where they are artistically arranged one over -another, with fresh salt between each layer. Care is always taken to -employ fresh brine. - -Red herrings are prepared by leaving the fish at least twenty-four hours -in the brine; and when they are taken out, little twigs are run through -the gills, and then they are suspended in a kind of chimney, made on -purpose, under which a small fire is made with wood, which produces a -good deal of smoke. The herrings remain in this state until they are -sufficiently dry, that is to say, about twenty-four hours. - -In Sweden and Norway they are somewhat differently prepared. The -Icelanders and Greenlanders simply dry them in the air.[XXI-211] - - -ANCHOVY. - -Sonnini thinks that garum was simply composed of anchovies cooked and -crushed in their brine, to which was added a little vinegar, and chopped -or pounded parsley. - -The fishermen of the Mediterranean and the coasts of the ocean salt -almost all the anchovies they take. They cut off their heads, which are -thought to be bitter, take out the entrails, wash them in soft or salt -water, and stratify them in barrels with salt. The fishermen of -Provence think it is essential to the good preservation of anchovies -that the salt be red; and, consequently, they colour it with ochreous -earths. Moreover, these fishermen do not change the brine which is -formed in the barrels: they simply fill them up when any is lost by -evaporation or leakage. - -The fishermen of the north only use bay salt, and they change the brine -three times, whence it results that their anchovies keep much longer; -but the greater acridness of those which have remained in the same brine -is esteemed a good quality by most consumers, and therefore they are -more sought after. - -In sea ports, anchovies are eaten either fried or roasted. Salted -anchovies are to be preferred when they are new, firm, white outside, -vermilion coloured inside, and free from all putrid smell. After having -taken out the backbone, and washed them well, cooks commonly make use of -anchovies in salads, and to flavour sauces made with butter, cullis, &c. -In this case they are employed raw. - -They are not unfrequently fried, after having been deprived of the salt, -and surrounded with an appropriate paste. Some persons toast slices of -bread, cover them with strips of anchovies, and serve them with a sauce -composed of oil, vinegar, whole pepper, parsley, scallions, and -eschalots, all in abundant quantities, and chopped very small.[XXI-212] - - -SHELL FISH. - -The Emperor Caligula had made immense preparations to invade Great -Britain. He set off, and when he arrived in sight of that Albion he was -going to attack, he commanded his troops to form in close array along -the shore, the trumpets to sound the charge, and sat himself on the -quarter-deck of his galley, from whence he might have directed the -action. For a short time he contemplated his warlike cohorts, and having -thus gratified his pride, he ordered his troops to pick up the shells -which abounded on the strand, and returned to Rome, where he showed the -“_spolia opima_” the ocean had delivered up to him. Caligula expected to -receive the honours of a triumph; but the senate, having some sense of -modesty left, would not award them, and the implacable Cæsar, from that -moment, swore the ruin of the senators.[XXI-213] - -The inhabitants of Greece and those of Italy thought a great deal of -shell fish, which was always served at the beginning of the repast, just -as they came from the sea: others cooked under the ashes, or fried. In -most cases they were seasoned with cummin and pepper.[XXI-214] - -The purveyors of fish in Rome gave the preference to those taken in the -lake of Lucrinus.[XXI-215] The Greeks esteemed those from the promontory -of Polarea.[XXI-216] - -The city of Baiæ, in Campania, celebrated for its charming position, and -the unreserved lax manners of its inhabitants, was not less renowned for -its culinary labours, and the nicety which presided over their joyful -banquets. Apicius has left us the recipe of a most exquisite stew, -_emphractum_, which the epicureans of Rome often went to degust among -their rivals, the Campanian gastronomists. - -Cut up oysters, muscles, and sea-hedgehogs; let the pieces be rather -small; put them into a stewpan with pine almonds, fried and chopped, -some parsley, rue, pepper, coriander, and cummin; add, with proper care -and discretion, some cooked wine, garum, and oil; cover, and boil the -whole for a long time on a slow fire.[XXI-217] - -We will point out the shell fish most in vogue in Italy, and for which -the seasoning was generally composed of a mixture of pepper, parsley, -dried mint, alisander, a great quantity of cummin, and a little of the -decoction of spikenard.[XXI-218] - - -OYSTER. - -The pontiffs of pagan Rome, men of exquisite delicacy and matured taste, -caused oysters to be served at every repast.[XXI-219] This little piece -of epicurism was very expensive, and it was necessary for these grave -personages to carry the whole of the devotion which characterized them -in their love of good cheer to the highest degree, to dare eat of a dish -still uncommon a century before the Christian era. At this epoch a -_borriche_ (a sort of basket) of oysters was worth one hundred sesterces -(£9).[XXI-220] It is unnecessary to remark that the poor never tasted -them. - -The Greeks and Romans, like ourselves, were remarkably fond of this -delicious shell fish, and eat them (French fashion) at the beginning of -a banquet.[XXI-221] For this reason Athenian epicures called oysters -“the gastronomic prelude to the supper.”[XXI-222] They were often served -raw,[XXI-223] and were then dexterously opened by a slave on the -table,[XXI-224] in presence of the guests, whose experienced eyes -greedily sought the light purple net which, according to them, surrounds -the fattest and best.[XXI-225] - -The inhabitants of Italy preferred large oysters,[XXI-226] and exacted -that this dainty manna of the sea[XXI-227] should be always fresh and -abundant at their feasts.[XXI-228] This displayed wisdom on their part: -this delightful fish excites the appetite and facilitates -digestion.[XXI-229] To add to its delicate flavour, the “Roman club of -epicureans,” a useful association, which modern Europe envies antiquity, -caused to be sent from Spain, at a vast expense, that precious -garum,[XXI-230] the recipe of which seems to have been lost, and the -condiment itself forgotten by the whole of the Peninsula. - -The magiric genius of Rome did not hesitate to demonstrate that oysters -do not form an exception to the law of perfectibility which governs all -beings, and that it is possible to render their flesh more succulent and -delicate by transporting them from their damp cradle into reservoirs -exposed to the mild influence of the sun.[XXI-231] Sergius Orata or, -perhaps, Fulvius Hirpinus, was the first who received this happy -inspiration. He caused to be constructed, near Pouzzole, a short time -before the civil war of Pompey, a fishpond, where be stowed oysters, -which he fattened with paste and cooked wine worked into the consistence -of honey[XXI-232]--_sapa et farre_. This worthy Roman enriched himself -by the sale of them,[XXI-233] and bequeathed a name to posterity--a -two-fold happiness for the gastronomist Fulvius, whose good fortune the -poet Homer did not partake. - -Apicius esteemed highly oysters from the lake of Lucrinus, from Brindes, -and Abydos, and studied deeply the succulent qualities of this shell -fish. He knew how to preserve them fat, fresh, and alive, during long -and fatiguing journeys; and, thanks to a delicate attention on the part -of this immortal _bon vivant_, the great Trajan was enabled to regale -himself with oysters sent from Rome while carrying on a distant war -against the Parthians.[XXI-234] This present of the king of epicureans -to the master of the world was worthy of both the giver and receiver, -but it completed the ruin of the generous Apicius. - -The Roman ladies shared their husbands’ taste, and eagerly partook of -oysters from the lake of Lucrinus, brought into fashion by Sergius -Orata, and when their fatigued stomachs struggled painfully with -gluttony, this delicacy soon obtained an easy triumph by disposing the -appetite to fresh exertions. The means of defence, however, were not -very formidable; sometimes a little warm and limpid water--oftener a -dazzling plume from the bird of Juno--hastened the struggle, and, -without effort, decided the victory.[XXI-235] This ingenious method was -very much relished by polyphagists, and the Emperor Vitellius -particularly honoured it.[XXI-236] - -Cape Pelorus furnished the Greeks with highly prized oysters,[XXI-237] -which were eaten alone, fried, stewed, or nicely dressed with -marsh-mallows, dock-leaves, and with some kind of fish.[XXI-238] - -The Romans at length became disgusted with those found on the coasts of -Italy, or in the Dardanelles; an instinct of greediness caused them to -prefer oysters from the Atlantic ocean, and especially from the shores -of Armorica, now called Britany.[XXI-239] Bordeaux supplied imperial -tables, and this high distinction is sufficient for its praise.[XXI-240] - -It may not be useless to remark here, that no sooner had Ausonius -praised this fish in his lines than it was forgotten, and did not -re-appear till the 17th century on the tables of distinguished -personages. May our descendants be more just than our forefathers. - -At Rome oysters were served with a seasoning of pepper and alisander, -mixed with the yolks of eggs, vinegar, garum, oil, wine, and a little -honey.[XXI-241] - -They were preserved in a vase smeared with pitch, washed with vinegar, -and hermetically closed.[XXI-242] - -“Oysters of a fine quality are generally of easy digestion, but not very -nourishing, particularly when eaten raw. They are sought for to open the -appetite, which is the case, owing to the nature of the water, agreeably -salted, contained in them. Some mention is made of persons who can eat -from fifteen to twenty dozen without being ill. It is not the same when -cooked; then they become hard, more tough, and, consequently, -indigestible. They are also eaten pickled with vinegar and sweet herbs. -In this state they are sent to countries distant from the sea, piled up -one upon the other, without the shell, in small barrels.”--DE -BLAINVILLE. - - -SEA-HEDGEHOG. - -Under this denomination were classed all animals, more or less -orbicular, whose envelope bristles with calcareous points, on which -account they were compared to hedgehogs. - -The Greeks thought them delicious when caught at the full moon,[XXI-243] -and prepared with vinegar, sweet cooked wine, parsley, and -mint.[XXI-244] Oxymel often replaced vinegar.[XXI-245] - -The Romans also esteemed highly this dish, which was recommended to -sluggish appetites under the auspices of the faculty;[XXI-246] and -Apicius furnished the following recipe for the preparation of it:-- - -“Procure a new saucepan,” thus says the great master, “place in it a -little oil, garum, sweet wine, and pepper. When the mixture begins to -boil, stuff the sea hedgehogs, then submit them to the action of a slow -fire; add a large quantity of pepper, and serve.”[XXI-247] - - -MUSSEL. - -The two great nations of antiquity have granted uncommon praise to -mussels, and partook of them at their most sumptuous feasts. At the -wedding repast of the graceful Hebe, Jupiter wished the inhabitants of -Olympus to exchange for this shell fish their celestial though -monotonous ambrosia.[XXI-248] Epicharmus, who records the fact, does not -inform us with what sauce the _chef de cuisine_ of the gods dressed the -flesh of those mussels. The reader must thus content himself with the -seasoning invented by simple mortals, and which appeared good to them. -It was composed of a suitable mixture of pepper, alisander, parsley, -mint, with a quantity of cummin seed, a little honey, vinegar, and -garum.[XXI-249] With this mixture they covered the boiled and widely -opened mussels, and the guests found it impossible to satiate themselves -with this dish, so much more digestible and nourishing than -oysters.[XXI-250] - - -SCALLOP. - -The effeminate inhabitants of Tarentum, the abode of luxury, delighted -in good living, and boasted of possessing the finest scallops of -Campania, and of the whole empire.[XXI-251] The infallible authority of -this voluptuous city in matters of taste gave a surprising vogue to this -fish. Rome, and all the population of Italy, believed it was forced to -eat the scallops of Tarentum prepared with oysters, and at other times -with mussels. - -It now remains to be mentioned that some kinds of _testacea_ appeared -worthy of the reputation they acquired among the ancients. - - -TORTOISE. - -The Greeks and Latins speak with admiration of the enormous size of -certain tortoises in their time, the whole species of which were -comprised under the generic word _testudo_.[XXI-252] The Indian Sea -produced some so large, that the shell of one only amply served to roof -a comfortable and elegant cottage.[XXI-253] The inhabitants of the -shores of the Red Sea never troubled themselves with building sloops; -large shells of tortoises spared them the trouble, by supplying them -with charming little barks, which lightly floated on the water.[XXI-254] -And, lastly, in the Ganges, tortoise shells were found, capable of -containing no less than 20 _amphoræ_, or about 560 pints.[XXI-255] - -The inhabitants of the Peloponnesus did the tortoise the signal honour -of representing its image on their money.[XXI-256] The blood cured -diseases of the eye,[XXI-257] and the flesh--in great request--was -thought excellent eating. It was cut into pieces of a middling size, and -placed in a saucepan with pepper, rue, and scallions, crushed in the -same mortar; over this was poured honey, garum, raisin wine, common -wine, and a small quantity of good oil. At the moment of ebullition, the -whole was thickened with flour.[XXI-258] - -Sometimes the tortoise was boiled, and covered with a seasoning, for -which the following is the recipe:-- - -Mix pepper, alisander, parsley, mint, and wild marjoram, with the yolks -of eggs, honey, garum, wine, cooked wine, and oil; add mustard and -vinegar.[XXI-259] - - -SEA-CRAWFISH. - -Apicius sought relief from his culinary studies at Minturnus, in -Campania, where that great master regaled himself with delicious -sea-crawfish, in order to keep up his gustatory powers. Genius reposes -amidst studious leisure. Being told that Africa produced some of these -_testacea_ of an immense size, immediately the worthy Roman tears -himself away from the sweet solitude he had created; he freights a -vessel, Æolus smiles on the undertaking, Neptune protects him, and he -arrives in sight of the African shore. Scarcely was he disembarked when -some fishermen brought him a few sea-crawfish; he examines, rejects -them, and demands finer ones to be brought. He is informed that it will -be impossible to procure any larger than those before him. At this -Apicius smiles disdainfully, and commanding the presence of his pilot, -orders him to steer back for Italy.[XXI-260] Decidedly magiric genius -never revealed itself by a more sublime action. - -However, Pliny somewhere mentions certain magnificent sea-crawfish, -which he describes as being four cubits in length[XXI-261]--very large -ones, certainly. - -Roman tables often presented to the sight of guests boiled sea-crawfish, -peppered and garnished with asparagus,[XXI-262] but they were generally -covered with a gravy composed of honey, vinegar, wine, garum, oil, and -cooked wine; to which were added scallions, chopped small, pepper, -alisander, carrots, cummin, and dates. Mustard was then mixed with the -whole.[XXI-263] - - -LOBSTER. - -Antiquity rendered justice to the lobster, and the taste for it did not -change, being founded on truly estimable and sterling qualities. It was -opened lengthwise, and filled with a gravy, into the composition of -which entered both pepper and coriander. It was then slowly cooked on -the gridiron, and every now and then basted with the same kind of gravy, -with which the flesh became impregnated.[XXI-264] - - -RIVER CRAYFISH. - -The Greeks were remarkably fond of this fish,[XXI-265] especially when -obtained from Alexandria.[XXI-266] They were not less esteemed in Rome, -where they eat them boiled with cummin, and seasoned with pepper, -alisander, parsley, dried mint, and a great quantity of cummin; the -whole carefully and well ground, and mixed with honey, vinegar, and -garum, to which was sometimes added some liquid perfume.[XXI-267] - -“Crayfishes can be preserved several days, not too warm, in baskets with -some fresh grass, such as the nettle, or in a bucket with three-eighths -of an inch of water. If there were enough water in it to cover them, -they would die in a few moments, because their great consumption of air -does not allow them to live in water unless it is continually -renewed.”--BOSC. - - -CRAB. - -Would you like to eat crab sausages? Boil some of these animals; reduce -them to a pulp; mix with this some spikenard, garum, pepper, and eggs; -give to this the ordinary shape of sausages, place them on the stove or -gridiron, and you will, by these means, obtain a delicate and tempting -dish.[XXI-268] Apicius assures us of the fact: Apicius was a -connoisseur! - -A crab may also be served whole, boiled, and accompanied by a seasoning -of pepper, cummin, and rue, which the cook skilfully mixes with garum, -honey, oil, and vinegar.[XXI-269] - -Is it preferred stuffed? Then fill it with a skilful mixture of cummin, -mint, rue, alisander, pine nuts, and pepper, the whole long soaked in -garum, honey, vinegar, and wine.[XXI-270] - - -FROGS. - -The ancients thought nothing of frogs, which they left at liberty to -propagate. There was such a great number among the Abderites, that these -good people gave up to them their native soil, and left the place in -search of another spot. - -At the present day, in some countries, frogs are sought for as a most -agreeable and wholesome food; in other parts--England in -particular--they are disdainfully shunned. But in France there is a -great consumption of them, especially in the spring. About a century -since, they were greatly in fashion at Paris; and it is stated that a -countryman from the province of Auvergne, named Simon, made a -considerable fortune by feeding and fattening them in one of the suburbs -of that city, which were sent to him from Auvergne. - -“In Germany, the various parts of the frog are eaten, the skin and -intestine excepted; but in France they are satisfied with the hind legs, -which, by the size of their muscles, are themselves equivalent to all -the rest. They are dressed with wine as fish, with white or brown sauce; -fried, or roasted; when tender, and properly done, it is a most delicate -dish.”--BOSC. - - * * * * * - -Before the conclusion of this article, we may as well mention a -frightful fish which modern good taste has banished from our tables, but -which the ancients allowed to appear at theirs. It is the _Polypus_, -highly esteemed both in Greece and Italy, when caught at a certain -period, and its numerous immoderate legs stretched far over the edges of -the dish prepared to receive it.[XXI-271] - -This monster was cut in pieces, and eaten with a sauce composed of -pepper, garum, and benzoin.[XXI-272] - -It will be easily understood that ancient nations must have early -accustomed themselves to fishing, the origin of which, doubtless, goes -back to the first ages of civilization. The holy writings often mention -fishermen,[XXI-273] fish-hooks, and nets. Homer speaks of them,[XXI-274] -and the poet, Hesiod, who flourished thirty years before Homer,[XXI-275] -places on the shield of Hercules an attentive fisherman, ready to throw -his net over some fish pursued by a dolphin.[XXI-276] - -The Egyptians also practised this occupation; of which the following -anecdote is a proof:-- - -Antony being in Egypt, the beauteous Cleopatra sought to amuse him by -inventing for his entertainment each day new kinds of pleasure; but the -Roman general, seized with a violent love of fishing, fled from the -society of his numerous courtiers, and, alone on the borders of the sea, -or an isolated lake, vainly waiting for the smallest gudgeon, he forgot -long hours of vain expectancy and useless patience. The queen undertook -his cure. She commanded a diver to plunge into the water, and there a -hook a fish to the line of Antony. He, seeing it agitated, joyfully -withdrew it from the water, and unhooked a _salted sardine_. Cleopatra -then exclaimed: “Leave to Egyptians the task of fishing; Romans should -take only kings, cities, and emperors.”[XXI-277] - -The inhabitants of Italy fished exactly in the same manner we do at this -day;[XXI-278] but Roman luxury, always greedy of extravagant profusion, -invented those celebrated fish ponds which cost immense sums, both to -build and maintain;[XXI-279] and to which Lucullus, Hortensius, and -Philippus, whom Cicero surnamed the “Tritons of fish pools,”[XXI-280] -consecrated almost entirely their anxiety and fortunes. - -This folly was carried to such a height that fish ponds were constructed -on the roofs of houses.[XXI-281] More reasonable persons contented -themselves with bringing river-water into their dining-rooms.[XXI-282] -The fish swam under the table, and it was only necessary to stoop and -pick them out the instant before eating them.[XXI-283] - -These expensive habits could only suit the most opulent and least -numerous class of Romans. The honest citizen modestly provided himself -at the fish-market, and the part not eaten by him the first day was -submitted to a very simple process, which assured its preservation. For -this, it was only necessary to cover it with boiling vinegar as soon as -it had been fried.[XXI-284] - -Fish was also well preserved by surrounding it with snow, and placing it -at the bottom of an ice-house.[XXI-285] - - - - -XXII. - - -THE COOK. - -The author of a rare and very curious work,[XXII-1] which no one at -present has time to read, formed the charitable project of reconciling -medicine and gastronomy. This was a noble enterprize, worthy of a true -philanthropist, and which assuredly presented less difficulties than -people may think. In effect, what was the moot question? To agree, _de -forma_, without interfering with the substance; to examine whether -culinary preparations poison, as has been said, the food which nature -gives us, and unceasingly paralyze the salutary action of the dietetic, -which the faculty prescribe. - -For many centuries cooking has been exposed to these odious reproaches, -the gravity of which we do not pretend to attenuate; and yet, ever -pursuing its brilliant career amidst revolutions and ruins, the magiric -art, endowed with eternal youth, embellishes each new era of -civilization, receives its most constant homage, and survives it when it -fades away. Let us speak plainly: mankind has thrown on cooks all the -faults of which they ought to accuse their own intemperance. It was no -doubt easier, than to avoid the fatal abuse of pleasure, and the evils -it brings with it; but there was the crying injustice, which we do not -hesitate to denounce; _there_ lay the obstacle it was necessary to -overcome, in order to bring about a peaceful understanding between the -disciples of Galen and the followers of Apicius. - -_Gourmandise_ would never have rebelled against the kitchen if all -polyphagists had obtained from the good Ceres the gift she granted to -Pandarea--a celebrated eater, who could pass days and nights at table, -without experiencing the slightest indigestion.[XXII-2] - -“But,” say you, “Seneca, the philosopher, perpetually combats, with the -authority of his virtuous language, those dangerous men who are busied -with a single stomach,[XXII-3] and who lay the foundation for a train of -maladies.” - -The reply to this is, that Seneca, the pedant, should have thundered -against the stomach, which alone is guilty (he has sometimes done so); -that this atrabilarious preceptor of Nero, attacked with an incurable -consumption, could only eat very little, which much enraged him; and -that his imprecations on the subject of the excessive riches and -prodigious luxury of the Romans of his age, neither hindered him from -possessing, and unceasingly increasing, a more than royal fortune; nor -from feeding--well or ill--several thousand slaves; nor from pompously -displaying in his palace five hundred tables--only five hundred--of the -most elaborate workmanship, of the rarest wood, all alike, and -ornamented with precious incrustations.[XXII-4] - -How often have people extolled the Lacedæmonians and their legislator, -Lycurgus. Well, Lycurgus mercilessly commanded poor little children to -fast when they looked fresh and fat.[XXII-5] Strange law-giver of a -strange people, who never learned to eat, and yet who invented the -celebrated “black sauce,” the _jus nigrum_, for which the entrails of -the hare served as the foundation. So true it is that cookery always -preserves certain imprescriptible rights over the most fervent disciples -of frugality. - -Moralists do not cease to repeat that Rome would never have had -sumptuary laws had it not been corrupted by cooks from Athens and -Syracuse. This is an error. All the ordinances of the consuls proscribed -profusion, excess--in a word, all the ruinous expenses of a passionate -and ridiculous gastrophagy,[XXII-6] at the same time, respecting the -magiric art itself; that is to say, that industrious chemistry which -composes, decomposes, combines, and mixes--in a word, prepares different -substances which gluttony, delicacy, the fashion, or luxury may confide -to it for the space of a few minutes. - -Why render the cook responsible for the extravagant tastes and follies -of his age? Is it for him to reform mankind? Has he either the means or -the right? - -What is asked of him? and what can be asked? To understand exactly the -properties of everything he employs, to perfect, and correct, if -necessary, the savours on which he operates; to judge with a true -taste, to degustate with a delicate palate, to join the skilful address -of the hand, and the prompt and comprehensive glance, to the bold but -profound conceptions of the brain; and above all--it cannot be too often -repeated--to identify himself so well with the habits, the wants, even -the caprices and gastronomic eccentricities, of those whose existence he -embellishes, that he may be able, not to obey them, but to guess them, -and even have a presentiment of them.[XXII-7] - -Such is, to use an original expression of Rabelais, “_toute l’artillerie -de gueule_,” which the cook can master. It is the sum total of what has -been bequeathed to us by some great men, whose scattered instructions, -lying here and there in books of morality and philosophy--there are -numerous analogies between the act of eating and the art of living -well--have been collected with scrupulous care, classed with all the -attention we can command, and will serve, we hope, to beguile the -studious leisure of the lovers of antiquity and the culinary science. - -Mankind had long obeyed that imperious and periodical necessity which -has been called hunger, when it announces its presence with its brutal -exigencies, before any one thought to form a code of doctrine calculated -to guide a sensation which, by its energy and duration, procures us the -most thrilling and lasting pleasures. - -The primitive nations no doubt gave themselves up to their native -gluttony. They eat much, but they fed badly. They did not yet possess -gastronomy; and, consequently, they had no cooks, in the serious and -complete acceptation of the word. - -The heroes of Homer prepared their repasts with their own hands,--and -what repasts, gods of taste!--and prided themselves on their culinary -talents. _Où la vanité va-t-elle se nicher?_ Ulysses surpassed all -others in the art of lighting the fire, and laying the cloth.[XXII-8] -Patroclus drew the wine, and Achilles very carefully turned the -spit.[XXII-9] - -The conquerors of Troy shone more in the combat than under the tent -which served them as kitchen. - -At length the aurora of the magiric ages began to dawn: it is not a -revolution, it is a creation which is preparing to appear. Man has only -known hunger; he shall now become acquainted with the charms of an -appetite. The King of Sidon learns how to eat, and it is Cadmus, the -grandfather of Bacchus, the future founder of Thebes, who takes upon -himself to instruct this august mouth.[XXII-10] - -And since that time how many illustrious followers have descended into -the arena, how many glorious names will not culinary annals have to -register! - -Somebody will, perhaps, one day publish a chronological history of -celebrated cooks. In the meantime, it may not be amiss to recall to -memory a few illustrious men, whose services and genius an ungrateful -posterity has too soon forgotten. - -Thimbron, among the Greeks, took the culinary art from its cradle: he -watched devoutedly over its development, and only descended into the -tomb after having won the heart of the whole of Greece,[XXII-11] for his -favourite science. Timachidas of Rhodes, cook and poet of the highest -renown, composed an epopee on the art which he professed, in the midst -of emanations from the stoves and the spit.[XXII-12] His verses, glowing -with the sacred fire which inspired him, lighted up the magiric vein of -several of his disciples, among whom Numenius, Hegemon, and Metreas, are -still cited.[XXII-13] - -Artemidorus collected and commented on all the words in use in the -kitchens of his time.[XXII-14] Greece owed to this patient terminologist -the possession of a culinary language, subject to certain unchangeable -rules. - -Mithœcus gave the “Sicilian Cook”--a remarkable type of a multitude -of tiresome and insipid imitations.[XXII-15] - -At length Archestratus appeared. He was of Syracuse, and passed all his -life in profoundly meditating on the functions, strength, anomalies, and -resources of the stomach. He discovered the laws which govern that -organ, and presented to the world his magnificent treatise on -gastronomy[XXII-16]--an inestimable master-piece of laborious -investigation of which time has deprived us, together with the works of -his useful predecessors. - -We must not omit the names of some celebrated theoricians, to whom the -art owes its rapid progress:--Philoxenus of Leucadus, devoted himself to -the difficult study of degustation, and practised several experiments, -which were, however, ill-appreciated by his contemporaries. Thus, in the -public baths, he accustomed his mouth and hands to the contact of -boiling-water, in order to be able to seize and devour burning viands, -the instant they were placed on the table. He recommended cooks to serve -everything very hot, so that he alone exercised mastication and -deglutition, while other guests less inured, were obliged to content -themselves with looking at him.[XXII-17] - -Pithyllus invented a sheath that covered the tongue, and protected it, -without paralyzing its action, against a caloric dangerous to its -delicate tissue.[XXII-18] This ingenious cuirass was not appreciated, -and history, in its thoughtlessness, has not even transmitted to us a -description of it. - -It was then the good time of Athens: gluttons had made way for -epicureans; hunger, to a less fierce and gross sensation, already -subjected to examination and discussion. The magiric art possessed its -rules, its various partisans, its professors, and disciples. Great -masters studied deeply the appetite--indispensable basis, on which will -always rest the culinary exegesis; and they finished by classing it -definitively, according to the three degrees of intensity which -observation discovers in it. - -_The bold appetite_, said they, is that which is felt when fasting. It -reflects but very little; is not squeamish about viands, and loses all -reserve at the sight of a very indifferent _ragoût_. - -_The indolent appetite_ requires to be encouraged. It must be enticed, -pressed, irritated. At first, nothing moves it--but after having tasted -a succulent dish, it rouses, is astonished, its ardour becomes animated, -and is capable of performing prodigies. It is this appetite which has -consecrated the trivial but true proverb: “_L’appétit vient en -mangeant_.” - -The _eclectic appetite_ owes nothing to nature; it is the child of art. -Happy, thrice happy, the skilful cook to whom it says: “Thou art my -father!” But how difficult is this creation--how rare! It is the work of -genius--but listen. Some guests, chosen amidst veteran epicureans, seat -themselves round a table covered with culinary offerings worthy only of -the God of Feasts, and a small number of the faithful. Their _indolent -appetite_ examines, compares, judges, and, at length, abandons itself to -the incomparable dainties from which it unceasingly seems to draw new -ardour. But alas! pleasure, like pain, has its limits here below. -Strength grows less, and becomes extinguished; the eye loses its greedy -covetousness;[XXII-19] the palate languishes; the tongue becomes -paralysed; the stomach sinks, and that which before pleased, now creates -only fatigue and disgust. It is then that a _cusinier hors ligne_, tries -a bold diversion, which must never be risked if the artist does not feel -in himself that force of generous efforts which is no other than genius. -By his orders, three or four dishes, prodigies of science and of luxury, -appear on the altar, which the sacrificers no longer heed. At this -sight, their looks brighten; desire revives; the smile reappears; the -magiric _facies_ shines forth with all its splendour; the chest dilates, -and you no longer distinguish your former guests. A man has transformed -them. Each one chooses, tries, tastes--is silent, and lost in wonder. -The appetite is perhaps tired, but not satiated; and the skilful cook at -length enjoys a deserved triumph. - -In this solemn moment he received, among the ancients, a crown of -flowers[XXII-20]--sweet and noble recompense of his arduous toil. Nay, a -more substantial proof of gratitude often greeted his new dishes. In -Greece, the inventor alone had a right to prepare them during a whole -year, and drew from it all the honour and profit. It was necessary, in -order that these culinary preparations should fall into the public -domain, that some one of his colleagues should succeed in surpassing -him.[XXII-21] - -At this epoch, the best cooks came from Sicily. Trimalcio was one of the -most celebrated. Athenæus tells us that, when he could not procure rare -and highly esteemed fish, he understood so well how to imitate their -form and flavour with common fish, that the most cunning epicures were -always entrapped. This reminds us of a certain cook of Louis XIV., who, -on Good Friday, served the king with a dinner, apparently composed of -poultry and butcher’s meat, which, in reality, offered nothing but -vegetables, and prepared, too, _au maigre_. - -The Romans, inheritors of the luxury of Asia and Greece, did not erect a -temple to the greedy Addephagia, goddess of good cheer, who possessed -altars in Sicily;[XXII-22] but they thought it impossible to repay too -highly those who knew how to extend the limits of the pleasures of the -table,[XXII-23] and a generous senator offered his _chef_ at least four -talents, or more than £800 a year. - -This is yet but little compared with the magnificence of Antony. He gave -a supper to Cleopatra; that princess praised the delicacy of the feast, -and immediately her lover called for the cook, and presented him with a -city, in recompense. - -How times are changed! We, at the present day, treat all this as pompous -and ridiculous prodigality. It is because our somewhat mean epoch judges -the olden times by the narrow ideas of order, foresight, and economy. -The ancients enriched their _Archimagiri_, wasted their revenue in -feasts, and then killed themselves. We have adopted a very different -style of living. But, at the same time, how far are our most sumptuous -banquets behind the most modest collations of Greece and Rome! Lucullus -caused to be served to Cicero and Pompey a little _ambigu_, which cost -£1,000. There were only three of them to partake of it! - -The Emperor Claudius had generally six hundred guests at his -table.[XXII-24] - -Vitellius did not spend less than £3,200 for each of his -repasts;[XXII-25] and the composition of his favourite dishes required -that vessels should unceasingly ply between the Gulf of Venice and the -Straits of Cadiz.[XXII-26] - -It must be confessed that cooks of that gastronomic era had to fulfil an -incessant and most laborious task. What was then more natural than to -abandon to them some thousands of those sesterces, which the profusion -of the master devoured by millions, in the form of phenicopters’ -tongues, scarus or parrot-fishes’ livers, and peacocks’ brains? - -We see that the Cæsars encouraged this frightful gastronomic monomania. -Tiberius gave more than £3,000 to the author of a dialogue, in which the -interlocutors were mushrooms, fig-peckers, oysters, and -thrushes.[XXII-27] - -Galba breakfasted before day-break, and the breakfast would have -enriched a hundred families.[XXII-28] Ælius Verus invented the -_pentapharmacum_, a kind of _Macédoine_, composed of sows’ flanks, -pheasants, peacocks, ham, and wild boars’ flesh.[XXII-29] Geta insisted -upon having as many courses as there were letters in the alphabet, and -each of these courses must contain all the viands whose name began by -the same letter.[XXII-30] - -These follies, which cooks were forced to obey, continued to astonish -the world until the moment when Rome--with her gods, the monuments of -her ancient glory, and of her recent turpitudes--crumbled beneath the -invincible weight of that horde of barbarians, that mysterious and -implacable scourge, which Divine vengeance reserved for the punishment -of unheard-of crimes. - -But, as we have before remarked, the magiric art always survives -revolutions and ruin of empires. Modern Italy inherited the wrecks of -Roman cookery, and, thanks to her, Europe is at the present day -acquainted with the delights of good cheer, and the charm of joyous -repasts. - -Under the reign of Louis XII. there arose a company of sauce -manufacturers, who obtained the exclusive privilege of making sauces. -Their statutes (1394) inform us that the famous sauce _à la cameline_, -sold by them, was to be composed “of good cinnamon, good ginger, good -cloves, good grains of paradise, good bread, and good vinegar.” The -sauce, _Tence_, was to be made of “good sound almonds, good ginger, good -wine, and good verjuice.” We find in Taillevant, the celebrated cook of -Charles V. and Charles VI., besides the _cameline_, _l’eau bénite_ (holy -water)--the sauce for pike, _le saupiquet_, _le mostechan_, _la -gélatine_, _la sauce à l’alose_, _au moût_, that of milk-garlic, cold, -red, and green sauces, _sauce Robert_, _Poitevine_, _à Madame rappée_, -and _à la dodine_. - -Platina, a Latin author of the 15th century, speaks of other sauces, in -the composition of which sugar was frequently employed, according to the -proverb of those times: “Sugar never spoiled sauce.” - -In the middle ages, poultry, butchers’ meat, and roast game, were never -eaten dry, as they are now, any more than fried fish. There were -different sauces for all those dishes, and even for the different parts -of each animal. The cooks of those days strove to acquire a reputation -by inventing strange and grotesque sauces, which had no other merit than -that of being surprising and difficult to make, as, for example: “eggs -cooked on the spit,” “butter fried or roasted.” &c.[XXII-31] - -We recognize in some of our most common _ragoûts_, those of which our -ancestors were so fond in the middle ages, such as the _bœuf à la -mode_, _à la persillade_, _au vinaigre et persil_, _le miroton de -bœuf_, _veau percé de gros lard_, _fricassée de poulet_, _blanquette -de veau rôti_; but we have lost the _pot-pourri_, composed of beef, -veal, mutton, bacon, and vegetables, and the _galimafrée_, a kind of -_fricassée_ of fowl, seasoned with wine, verjuice, and spices, and -thickened with the famous sauce _cameline_.[XXII-32] - -The cooks frequently placed on their masters’ tables _ragoûts_ and other -dishes borrowed from foreign nations. They had a German _brouet_, a -Flemish _chaudeau_, eggs _à la Florentine_, and partridges _à la -Catalane_. They knew the _olla_--a mixture of all sorts of vegetables -cooked with different kinds of meats, which we owe to the Spaniards, as -well as the _ragoût_ of fowl, called _à la Chipolata_, and the -_keneffes_--a kind of forced-meat balls made of bread and meat, to which -the Germans are very partial, and the _pilau_--a dish of mutton, fowl, -and rice, borrowed from the Turks.[XXII-33] - -The art of cooking with its innumerable paraphernalia of sauces with -gravy, pepper, cinnamon, garlic, scallion, brains,[XXII-34] with its -gravy soups, - -[Illustration: _Pl. 11._] - -milk pottage, and _ragoûts_, had a signal triumph at the wedding of -Charles VI. of France. On that occasion a skilful cook covered the great -black marble table of the royal palace[XXII-35] with a hundred dishes -prepared in a hundred different ways. - -The good physicians did not proscribe the art of cooking; several of -their number even deigned to write treatises upon it.[XXII-36] - -A certain monkish servant, moved by an indiscreet zeal, wished not only -to mortify himself but all the Franciscans of the monastery. -Consequently, he prepared the repasts in the worst manner he could. But -the community held a chapter, and he was condemned to receive fifty -lashes; many of the monks wanted to enforce a more rigorous discipline -by giving a hundred.[XXII-37] - -In the middle ages, the cook of a house of any note always seated -himself in a high arm chair to give his orders; he held a long wooden -spoon in his hand, with which he tasted, without quitting his place, the -various dishes that were cooking on the stoves and in the saucepans, and -which served him also as a weapon with which to chastise the idle and -gluttonous.[XXII-38] - - -THE KITCHEN. - -Let as enter together one of those vast kitchens, where two thousand -years ago, the marvellous suppers of some rich senator were concocted. -In every direction, slaves are coming loaded with meat, game, sea-fish, -vegetables, fruit, and those expensive delicacies of which the dessert -of the Romans was principally composed. The slaves have been over the -principal markets of the city, especially those of the Trigemina gate, - - DESCRIPTION OF PLATE No. XI. - - No. 1. Remains of a kitchen-stove in the house of Pansa, at - Pompeii, much like those of the present day; a knife, a strainer, - and a kind of frying-pan with four cavities, probably intended to - cook eggs. - - No. 2. Stock-pot, in bronze, to hang over the fire, if we may judge - from the eye at the top of the handle. - - No. 3. A similar one of another shape, for boiling. - - No. 4. Ladles of various forms, for making libation from larger - vessels. - - No. 5. A brazier; the thickness of the sides are hollow, and - intended to contain water, and the four turrets are provided with - moveable lids, at the side is a cock to draw off the water. The - centre of course was filled with lighted charcoal, and if a tripod, - or trivet, were placed above it, many processes of cooking, such as - boiling, stewing, or frying, might be - performed.--“_Pompeii._”--“_Lib. of Ent. Know._” - -of the Metasudante,[XXII-39] of the Suburd Way,[XXII-40] and the Sacred -Way.[XXII-41] Each one lays his basket at the feet of the procurator or -major-domo, who examines the contents, and registers them on his -tablets;[XXII-42] then he has placed in the pantry, contiguous to the -dining room, those of the provisions which demand no -preparation,[XXII-43] but whose graceful and symmetrical arrangement is -confided to two Æolian servants designated under the name of -_structores_.[XXII-44] - -All these porters are under the immediate orders of a confidential -servant--_obsonator_--charged with buying the provisions necessary for -the household, and who is obliged to make himself acquainted with the -taste of his master and also of each guest, that he may procure nothing -which they dislike.[XXII-45] - -The remaining comestibles are placed in an airy and spacious apartment -adjoining the kitchen, and at the back of the house.[XXII-46] There, -around a table loaded with numerous wooden figures, representing a -variety of animals, some attentive young men are practising, under the -direction of an experienced master, the difficult art of carving game -and poultry;[XXII-47] whilst a melodious symphony accustoms their -skilful hands to hasten or retard their graceful movements according to -the time of the music.[XXII-48] In this learned rehearsal the eye and -ear, alike charmed, pass alternately from the peaceful emotions of the -pensive _adagio_ to the lively cadences of the rapid _allegro_, and from -the harmonious and calm _andante_ to the captivating and joyous accents -of a frenzied _prestissimo_. - -In this spacious laboratory the most delicious emanations invite us. The -chief of the cooks, the _Archimagirus_,[XXII-49] seated on a raised -platform, embraces at a single glance the series of stock-pots and brick -stoves,[XXII-50] very similar to those in use at the present day, at -which the silent crowd of assistants,[XXII-51] ministers of his will, -elaborate and watch the expensive dishes destined to form a splendid -supper. As, at the moment of battle, the general, motionless on a height -which commands a view of his army, hastens, orders, scolds his scattered -battalions, absent and yet everywhere, animating with his own -inspiration the warlike masses, and exciting them with the excitement of -his own soul, he invokes victory, and victory replies, “Behold me!” The -_Archimagirus_ has also his days of triumph; and in the evening, -perhaps, the king of the feast will place on his head a crown of -flowers, precious recompense of his talent and success. - -At some distance from the culinary autocrat, on the opposite side, an - -[Illustration: _Pl. 12_] - -immense iron grate,[XXII-52] carefully supplied with wood,[XXII-53] -which an unhappy slave unceasingly blows with his breath into a -flame,[XXII-54] throws around its lurid glare. The _Lares_, grotesque -figures, roughly carved in stone, protect this spot. A cock is -sacrificed to them in the month of December.[XXII-55] - -Some learned men have supposed that the Greeks and Romans had no -chimneys; it is, however, easy to prove the contrary. Philocleo, a -character in the comedy of the “_Wasps_” of Aristophanes, hides himself -in a chimney. A slave who hears him, cries out, “What a noise there is -in the pipe of this chimney!” Philocleo, being discovered, exclaims, “I -am the smoke, and I am trying to escape.”[XXII-56] - -Appian, speaking of the proscriptions of the triumvirs, relates that -several citizens fled into the pipes of the chimneys.[XXII-57] - -These two examples will preclude the necessity of more ample citations. - -A vast cauldron of brass from Argos,[XXII-58] or Dodona,[XXII-59] placed -on a tripod above the fireplace, furnishes the hot water required for -the service of the kitchen. The frying-pan, beside it, serves in the -cooking of certain delicate cakes or fish.[XXII-60] - -The magiric laboratory, to which the reader is invited, is very nicely -decorated with a profusion of utensils similar in every respect to our -own in point of shape--such as gridirons, cullenders, dripping-pans, and -tart dishes. These objects are of tolerably thick bronze, plated with -fine silver.[XXII-61] Charming shells of the same metal, serve to mould -the pastry,[XXII-62] which is afterwards disposed with order on the -shelves of a country oven,[XXII-63] or in the upper part of the -authepsa,--a kind of saucepan of Corinthian brass, of considerable -value, and made with such art that its contents cook instantly and -almost without fire.[XXII-64] This simple and ingenious vessel possesses -a double-bottom; the uppermost one holds - - DESCRIPTION OF PLATE No. XII. - - From the ancients very little is left us of their kitchen utensils; - however, the vessels and instruments which they used must have been - in great variety; they had boilers called by the names of - _caldarium_, _cacabus_, _cortina_, _adhenum_; chaldron, _lebes_; - stewpan, _sartago_; saucepan, _pultarium_; the cullender, with - small holes perforated, Pliny calls _colum_, and more modern - writers _verna_; spoons, in Latin, _cochlear_ or _cochleare_; forks - and hooks, to draw the meat out of the stockpots, they named - _creagra_ and _fuscina_; the dishes were called _lances_, _disci_, - _patina_, _patella_, or _catini_; and distinguished from plates by - the size, and sometimes the shape. - - =No. 1.= Stockpot, with a large ladle and cullender attached, with - small holes; appeared on the column of Trajan, together with the - stewpan of Silenus. - - =No. 2.= Broken stewpan, in bronze. - - =No. 3.= Smaller one. These three articles of kitchen utensils are - from the cabinet of M. l’Abbé Charlet.--“_Antiquités de - Montfaucon._” - -the light delicacies destined for the dessert, and the fire is -underneath.[XXII-65] - -The diploma, or double-vase, which has sometimes been confounded with -the authepsa, does not in the least resemble the latter. It is thus they -named the vessel called by us a “_bain-marie_;”[XXII-66] the ancients -made great use of this mild and gentle process of cooking, which is -often mentioned in the treatise of Apicius.[XXII-67] - -These brass boilers, which boil on the hearth, supported by three feet, -are precisely like those used by the French at the present day.[XXII-68] -Boilers also of a rather different kind are sometimes used, in which the -operation of ebullition takes place sooner than in the first mentioned; -they are closed with a cover in the form of a dome, and a large hollow -cylinder, fixed beneath, hastens and keeps up the action of the -caloric.[XXII-69] - -The saucepans, around which a host of cooks are busily engaged, are for -the greater part made of brass or earthenware,[XXII-70] tolerably wide -and deep, which they place on the stoves, and in which are concocted the -delicate and scientific preparations. Some are of silver.[XXII-71] The -caprices of luxury have led them to suppose that certain expensive -viands acquire greater perfection when cooked in this precious metal. - -A confidential slave, charged with the care of the plate, is cleaning -and polishing near a dresser a large number of bronze chafing-dishes, -which are to be used at table to prevent the plates from becoming cold. -It is in speaking of this useful invention that Seneca, the philosopher, -says, “Daintiness gave birth to this invention, in order that no viand -should be chilled, and that everything should be hot enough to please -the most pampered palate. The kitchen follows the supper.”[XXII-72] Each -of these elegant utensils is supported by three geese. It measures about -seven inches from the extremity of one of the bird’s heads to the -opposite edge of the circumference. This kind of tray is fifteen lines, -or an inch and a-quarter deep, and the feet raise it about two inches -above the plane. The three geese have their wings spread, and terminate -by - - DESCRIPTION OF PLATE No. XIII. - - No. 1. This boiler is made of bronze; the lower part was filled - with water, and made to boil by means of the cylinder, covered with - a lid, in which lighted charcoal was introduced; the ashes escaped - through holes perforated at the bottom, and the basin has a tap to - let the water out. - - No. 2. A flat saucepan, or sauté pan, with a fluted handle, and a - ram’s head at the end. - - No. 3. A kettle similar to our teapots. - - No. 4. A gridiron, and a dripping-pan. - - No. 5. A trivet, a cleaver, and a butcher’s knife.--ST. NON, - “_Cabinet of Herculaneum_.” - -[Illustration: _Pl. 13._] - -[Illustration: _Pl. 14_] - -neats’ feet. The heads, raised on the breasts, form graceful -handles.[XXII-73] These chafing-dishes, arranged systematically on the -sigma, produce a delightful effect. - -Dishes of massive silver occupy another compartment of the vast -cupboard. An opulent family could not possibly do without this luxury. -Sylla had some which weighed 200 marks, and Rome would produce more than -five hundred of the same weight.[XXII-74] It was in fact a perfect -_furore_, which afterwards greatly augmented. In the time of the Emperor -Claudius, one of his slaves, named Drusillanus Rotundus, possessed a -silver dish weighing 1,000 marks, which was served in the midst of eight -smaller ones weighing 100 marks each. These nine dishes were arranged at -table on a machine which supported and placed them prominently in view. - -The _patinæ_ such was the name of these magnificent pieces of plate, -served for _ragoûts_ and fish; the _catinus_, an immense vase of -earthenware among the poor[XXII-75] and of silver with the rich, is more -especially reserved for liquid dishes, with much gravy, and what we call -pottage.[XXII-76] - -Those silver cups and saucers, of the same shape and size as those we -employ for tea, have a destination very strange to our ideas. They are -used to drink hot water. They are worked in relief, with a taste and -delicacy which we cannot too much admire.[XXII-77] - -The Roman spoons, rather different from our own, end on one side by a -point, to pick shell fish from their shell, and at the other by the bowl -of a spoon, with which eggs were eaten.[XXII-78] - -Doubtless, forks were unknown to the Greeks, since Athenæus relates, -“that Pithyllus”--surnamed the Dainty--“did not content himself with -covering his tongue with a species of net, to appreciate the taste of -the various dishes, but cleaned and rubbed it with a fish. He also -enveloped his hands in a kind of glove, to eat everything burning -hot;”[XXII-79] a useless precaution if he had used a fork. - -This indispensable addition to a modern table was, perhaps, not common -at Rome, but nevertheless, it was to be seen at the residence of some -wealthy families. The slave before-mentioned holds several in his hand. -These forks are remarkable for the beauty of their workmanship. - - DESCRIPTION OF PLATE No. XIV. - - No. 1. Chafing-dish to keep everything hot. - - No. 2. Silver cup, beautifully chased, to drink hot water. - -The stags’ feet which terminate the handles, and the fillets with which -they are ornamented, bear witness by their execution to the rare talent -of the goldsmith. They are five inches and a half in length, and have -only two prongs.[XXII-80] - -Other servants dispose the earthenware pails, in which the wine is to be -placed to cool,[XXII-81] and prepare the drinking cups and crystal -flagons.[XXII-82] One of them replenishes with vinegar, salt, and -pepper, little vases designated by the name of _acetabulum_, “vinegar -cruet.”[XXII-83] These are so many models of the most exquisite -elegance, in bronze, silver, and, sometimes, gold. They are manufactured -simply of earthenware, for the use of the middle classes of -people.[XXII-84] - -The knives, destined to serve at table, are of brilliant steel, and -carefully sharpened; they bear each on the handle some whimsical -ornament, and seem to have served as models for those which were so much -in fashion towards the beginning of the 17th century, and which were -called Chinese knives.[XXII-85] - -The most precious plate is arranged before the arrival of the guests on -the abacus, or sideboard, which decorates the dining room. This splendid -piece of furniture, which will be noticed hereafter, was introduced into -Rome 187 years B.C. It was also called the Delphic table.[XXII-86] - -However, the _Archimagirus_ has drawn up a list of the repast, which -contains the bill of fare of the dishes, and which, both in Greece and -Rome, was always presented to the guests.[XXII-87] He descends from his -platform, and goes to cast an inspiring glance on the work of each -subordinate. Nothing escapes his learned investigation, from the -peacocks’ eggs of the first service, to the soft cheese commonly eaten -at the third.[XXII-88] Above all, he examines with minute attention the -ovens, at which preside those second cooks of whose talents he is not -certain, and who belong to that class of erratic artists who are to be -met with every day at the forum, - - DESCRIPTION OF PLATE No. XV. - - No. 1. Roman silver spoon, found at Autun, in France. Martial says - expressly that spoons were used by the ancients to eat eggs and - shell fish. - - No. 2. Brass knife, from Herculaneum. The shape of the handle is - rather singular, being too small for the hand, but it was probably - covered with horn, wood, or ivory. However, it may have been, the - knife is thirteen inches in length, from the tip to the ring, which - was used to hang it up. The handle is three inches long, and the - blade in its largest width is one inch and a quarter. It was used - no doubt for sacrifices. - - No. 3. A simpulum, or a sort of spoon for salt or eggs. - - No. 4. A simpulum, or cup with a long handle, commonly ending with - a hook, which was used as a ladle to take wine or other liquids out - of large vessels. - - No. 5. Fork mentioned in the text, and given as antique in the - “_Recueil d’Antiq.,_” III., Pl. 84. - -[Illustration: _Pl. 15._] - -[Illustration: _Pl. 16_] - -where they wait till some one comes to request their services.[XXII-89] -His remarks, full of sense and precision, proclaim profound study and -consummate experience. “Never will this _depsiticius_ bread,”[XXII-90] -says he to one of them, “obtain the necessary lightness by baking; the -flour should have been passed through a Spanish sieve of linen -thread;[XXII-91] Use the Gallic sieve of horsehair for the -_artocreas_,[N][XXII-92] and one of papyrus, or Egyptian rush,[XXII-93] -for the coarser kinds of flour.” “The grasshoppers require great -precaution,” he exclaims, an instant after, approaching a young -Sicilian; “fry them so that they obtain only a light gold -colour.”[XXII-94] Then, passing to a third stove, he shows to one of his -favourite pupils how to season highly an excellent sauce of snails (this -_hors-d’œuvre_, dear to the Romans), and by what marks to distinguish -those fattened by art in particular inclosures, from those which feed in -gardens and are only fit for the common people.[XXII-95] He then stops -before a stewpan, where a cook is browning large worms of a whitish hue, -which breed in the hollows of trees, and are considered by the -Romans[XXII-96] as a most delicious dish: “The flour with which these -cossi were fed was heated,” says he; “they will present to the teeth -only a soft and insipid substance.”[XXII-97] - -We will not accompany this great master any further: his instructions -are already known to us. An enthusiastic disciple of Apicius, he -practises the lessons of that illustrious professor; and we should only -hear from him precepts which we have already faithfully transmitted. - -When the moment of supper is arrived, we shall find the _Archimagirus_ -presiding at that gastronomic order of battle on which depends the -success of the day. May Vesta and Comus be propitious to him. - -In the 14th century, the refectories and kitchens of the numerous -communities of Paris presented a curious scene. Immense coppers -contained the pottage and boiled meat, and monster gridirons, on four -wheels, covered vast braziers. All the utensils of these kitchens were -of remarkable dimensions. - - DESCRIPTION OF PLATE No. XVI. - - No. 1. Roman silver knife handle. - - No. 2. Roman silver spoons. - - No. 3. A very deep dish of metal, either for sauces or some kind of - liquid. - - - - -XXIII. - -SEASONINGS. - - -THE animal and vegetable kingdoms furnish us with an abundant and -wholesome food, whose flavour gastronomic caprice unceasingly modifies -by the aid of various substances which we denominate seasonings. It is, -above all, the perfect knowledge of these ingredients, the manner of -employing them, and their skilful mixture, which constitute the art of -the cook. Labour and custom, and a kind of routine which the palate -acquires easily, will suffice for those who content themselves with this -calling, and who, carefully preserving the timid traditions of the past, -view progress as ruin and devastation, and the fruitful boldness of -inspiration as ridiculous and fatal innovations. - -Heresy, and even schism (pardon these expressions), should be allowed in -cookery, as soon as they receive the sanction of the doctors -_ès-banquets_--the sole judges competent in such matters. It is to the -art professed by Apicius that the celebrated line of Voltaire appears -more peculiarly to apply:-- - - “Tous les genres sont bons, excepté l’ennuyeux.” - -Innovate, then, studious disciples of the illustrious Roman: consult -only the measures of your strength, the conscience of your genius, and -the infallible good taste of some chosen guests. Create for your -seasoning unheard-of combinations, the strangeness of which shall strike -and astonish; whose flavour shall subjugate and stifle criticism beneath -the sweet efforts of a voluptuous mastication. - -Learn how to make your areopagitæ eat: this innocent seduction will -insure your triumph. - -Treat not with too much disdain these Roman recipes; for although the -formidable list may excite a smile from the reader, and, perhaps, the -scorn of the cook, a great and prolific idea slumbers beneath the cold -ashes of the ovens of Apicius which a breath may rekindle; and, at the -same time, resuscitate some of those culinary wonders of a bygone -civilisation, and endow our modern age, so impatient of the future, so -curious concerning the past. - -Two Phœnicians--whose names are never mentioned by forgetful -posterity--Selech and Misor, taught mankind the art of heightening the -flavour of their food by mixing with it a certain quantity of salt. The -science of seasoning has no other origin.[XXIII-1] - - -SALT. - -The law of Moses commanded the Jews to mix salt with everything offered -in sacrifice.[XXIII-2] This prescription sufficiently testifies the use -of this condiment at an epoch which the uncertainty of profane writers -appears to invade on all sides, and which the great Hebrew legislator -alone enlightens with a ray invariably steady and pure. - -The Asphaltite lake produced abundance of salt.[XXIII-3] It was sent -even to Rome, and was considered by Galen as the most desiccatory and -digestive of any kind.[XXIII-4] - -The Greeks placed this substance in the list of things which ought to be -consecrated to the gods; and it is in this sense that Homer gives it the -epithet of divine. Pagan superstition, of which some traces may still be -remarked in the 19th century, threatened with some great misfortune any -one who spilt salt; and it was deemed a signal impiety to forget placing -salt-cellars on the table, or to dare go to sleep before removing them. -This strange superstition was common among the Greeks and -Romans.[XXIII-5] Those nations never failed consecrating their repasts -by filling salt-cellars, near to the vase in which they presented the -gods with the first portion of meat and fruit.[XXIII-6] - -Certain nations, among others the Numidians, were not acquainted with -salt;[XXIII-7] and in the greater part of countries where it abounded, -cupidity almost invariably subjected it to a heavy tax, which rendered -its use less practicable. - -The inhabitants of Troad provided themselves for a long time with salt -from Tragase without cost. King Lysimachus one day thought of exacting -a duty for every measure carried away. But, wonderful to relate, hardly -was the royal edict published, when the salt springs were found to be so -nearly dried up, that they hardly furnished wherewith to season a small -stew. Lysimachus comprehended the meaning of this prodigy, and abolished -the tax. The salt re-appeared.[XXIII-8] - -At Rome, in the time of her Kings, every one was free to sell salt, and -its price became excessively high. The republican government withdrew -this right from private individuals, and from that time the common -people easily procured all the salt they required, and which they -willingly eat with bread.[XXIII-9] - -Ancus Martius was the first Roman who established salt works near Ostia -towards the mouth of the Tiber.[XXIII-10] Afterwards, others were -formed, not only in Rome, but in the provinces. These were of two kinds, -public and private. The first belonged to the republic, and formed part -of the emperor’s domain; malefactors were condemned to labour in the -salt-works, and it was generally women on whom this punishment was -inflicted.[XXIII-11] - -Ancus Martius was also the first who placed a duty on salt. It was -abolished after the expulsion of the Kings, but was afterwards again -established. - -Down to the 14th century salt was a commodity of trade open to every one -in France. Philip the Long and Philip of Valois were the first to impose -a momentary tax on it; but after the fatal battle of Poictiers, in which -John was taken prisoner, Charles, his son, in order to pay the ransom of -that monarch, had recourse, among other extraordinary means, to the -establishment of the salt tax. The idea was found to be good, and it has -never since been given up.[XXIII-12] - -There are four sorts of salt which are employed to season dishes, -obtained either from the evaporation of sea water, from certain lakes or -salt marshes, and also from saliferous sources drawn out of the bosom of -the earth in compact masses. Its particular savour is well known; it is -soluble in water, and easily becomes damp. In the scientific language, -this substance is called hydrochlorate of soda. - - -BRINE. - -This was water in which bay salt had been dissolved. At Rome, it was -served at table to be mixed with the meat precisely in the same manner -as we serve salt in salt-cellars. The Romans plunged in this muria any -fish or meat they might wish to preserve.[XXIII-13] - -Strong _muria dura_ was water so completely saturated with bay salt, -that no more could be dissolved in it.[XXIII-14] Olives were washed in -it. - -The brine most sought after was that of Antibes, of Thurium, and of -Dalmatia.[XXIII-15] It was prepared with the blood and other juices -which, after death, escaped from the tunny fish,[XXIII-16] mixed with -garum, which rendered it more fluid and less expensive. - -At the end of the repast, enigmas were often proposed to the guests. -Some delicious dish served as a reward to those who were fortunate -enough to guess them; the others were compelled to pour _muria_ into -their drink, and swallow a cup-full without taking breath.[XXIII-17] - - -DIGESTIVE SALTS. - -The Romans were enormous eaters. Apicius, who was better aware of it -than any one, imagined providing against those accidents to which his -countrymen did not fear to expose themselves once every day, by offering -to them a preparation which our habits of sobriety would, doubtless, -render useless at the present day; but which the curious will not be -sorry to discover in these sketches of antique gastrophagy. Take a pound -of common salt, which torrefy and pulverize; mix it with three ounces of -white pepper, two ounces of ginger, an ounce of lamoni, an ounce and a -half of thyme, as much of celery seed, three ounces of wild marjoram, an -ounce and a-half of rocket seed, three ounces of black pepper, an ounce -and a-half of holy thistle, two ounces of hyssop, two ounces of -spikenard, two ounces of parsley, and two ounces of -anise-seed.[XXIII-18] - -Take a small quantity of these salts after a too plentiful dinner; and -the stomach will immediately defy the most imminent indigestion. - - -GARUM. - -When we have read all that has been written by the ancients on this -famous preparation, we become convinced, in spite of the obscurities -and continual contradictions of commentators, that if garum is no -longer manufactured in the present day, it is not on account of the -impossibility we find in discovering the recipe of the Greeks and -Latins, but solely because this rather strange brine has not the same -charm for us that it had for them. Let us, however, scan the -authorities. - -The Greeks called the shrimp _garos_, the Romans _garus_: it may hence -be supposed that garum had originally for basis the flesh of shrimps, if -Pliny had not taken the trouble to inform us of the fact.[XXIII-19] It -was afterwards composed of other fish, but it always retained the name -which recalled its origin.[XXIII-20] In like manner the signification of -certain words is now applied to things quite different from the original -type: chicory, or succory, is received under the mask of coffee: a -certain pottage boldly usurps the honours due exclusively to turtle -soup. Nothing more easy than to multiply these examples of catachreses: -there are few figures which have become so common. - -Well, then, they macerated the intestines of fish in water, saturated -with salt, until putrefaction began to show itself; they then added -parsley and vinegar.[XXIII-21] - -A thick garum was also frequently obtained, by allowing the entrails and -other parts, generally thrown away, to liquefy in salt.[XXIII-22] - -In the time of Pliny, mackerel[XXIII-23] was preferred, of which they -employed either the gills and intestines, or only the blood, directly -the fish left the water,[XXIII-24] and while yet living. They thus -obtained a precious liquid, and which the care necessary for its -production rendered so dear, that eight pints of it cost no less than -from fifteen to twenty pounds.[XXIII-25] - -This expensive garum was especially esteemed when it came from Spain: it -was then called “garum of the allies”--_garum sociorum_--because it was -received from a nation allied with the Romans;[XXIII-26] or, again, -perhaps in allusion to the “band of gluttons,” of Rome, a sort of -fraternity of free-livers, who made great use of it.[XXIII-27] - -The blood and entrails of the tunny fish, mixed with salt in a vase, -produced also a most elaborate garum. A hole was made in the vessel at -the expiration of two months, and the rich seasoning flowed from -it.[XXIII-28] - -This brine became exquisite, and obtained an exorbitant price when made -from the liver of anchovies macerated in vinegar, pepper, salt, parsley, -garlic, white wine, and sweet herbs.[XXIII-29] But Apicius attained at -the first step the apogee of refinement of the most sensual gluttony, by -inventing garum made from the liver of red mullet.[XXIII-30] What we -have already said elsewhere with regard to this fish will enable the -reader to appreciate the value of this new preparation. - -Amateurs who were more economical contented themselves with very little -saxatile fishes,[XXIII-31] of which only the intestines were taken, or -which were thrown whole into a vase with a great quantity of salt. These -were exposed to the sun, and the mixture long and often stirred. When -heat had caused fermentation, and the vessel contained only a kind of -pulp, or paste, almost liquid, a kind of willow basket was introduced, -into which the garum alone could penetrate. The thick part--the dregs -which remained at the bottom of the vase--was termed _alec_.[XXIII-32] - -The following method was also frequently adopted:-- - -Mackerel, or small fish, were placed in a small vase with a large -quantity of salt; this was well stirred, and the mixture was then left -quiet all night. The next day it was transferred into an earthen pot, -which remained uncovered in the sun. At the end of two or three months, -it was hermetically closed, after having added a quantity of old wine -equal to one-third of the mixture.[XXIII-33] - -When it was wished to obtain garum without waiting any length of time, -they took brine, carefully filtered, and so saturated with salt that an -egg would float on it; this was placed with the fish in a new saucepan; -wild marjoram was added, and the whole boiled over a gentle fire, until -the fish was entirely dissolved. Then wine, reduced to two-thirds by -boiling, was added. It was left to get cold; the liquid was several -times filtered, till it became quite clear, and was then finally placed -in an uncovered vase.[XXIII-34] - -Although fish was generally used, the flesh of several animals was -sometimes employed in the formation of garum.[XXIII-35] It was, however, -submitted to the same preparations as those already mentioned. - -Such was this wonderful seasoning, forming the chief delight of the -ancients, whose praises poets have sung, and the composition of which -formerly exercised the singularly mad intelligence of Maître François -Rabelais. The reader will doubtless remark, that the principal elements -of garum are almost invariably the same: fish, salt, and a greater or -less fermentation. But perhaps some one may exclaim: “This must be -detestable!” No doubt, but then no one ever thought of regaling himself -with this liquid; it was never taken alone; it was but reserved as a -seasoning for a host of dishes, in order to heighten their flavour. - -It must also be observed, that a skilful cook always took care to -modify the garum before he sent it to table, by the help of various -ingredients, such as pepper, vinegar, Falernian wine,[XXIII-36] water, -and oil,[XXIII-37] according to the use to which it was destined, or the -degree of strength it was expedient it should possess. Hence that -variety of seasonings with garum,--sweet,[XXIII-38] sharp, mixed with -water, wine, vinegar, and many other substances which changed or -corrected the acid flavour of the primitive condiment,[XXIII-39] though -without in the least depriving it of the qualities which fermentation -had communicated to it. - -It results from the different citations of which this chapter is -composed, that recipes for the making of garum are to be obtained more -easily than people seem to think at the present time. Everyone may not -be of the same opinion with regard to the kind of fish generally used by -the ancients to obtain this liquid, although all difficulties would be -removed by admitting--which certainly is nothing but right--that they -chose at one time mackerel or tunny fish; at others, gudgeons and small -sardines; sometimes even the red mullet, in spite of its rarity and -price. But it is evident that garum was prepared by either dissolving -and liquefying these fish in their brine, either whole, their -intestines, or their liver, and that, to effect this, it was only -necessary to expose to the sun the vessel containing them; or that they -simply put small fish into a dish, with vinegar and parsley, placed it -on a charcoal fire, and stirred it for some time, when it was wanted for -immediate use. - -It must have been remarked in reading this work, that Apicius very -frequently employs garum; he places it in every sauce, but never makes -use of this seasoning unmixed, never does he serve it by itself as a -special dish. This celebrated gastronomist has bequeathed us the recipe -for a digestive garum. It is as follows:-- - -Mix with some honey, half an ounce of pepper, three scruples of -eschalots, six scruples of cardamum, one scruple of spikenard, and six -scruples of mint; add vinegar to this mixture, and then pour in some -garum.[XXIII-40] - -The _Hypotrimma_, or stomachic condiment, of the same master, merits -also our attention:--Mix carefully some pepper, benzoin, mint, -pine-nuts, dried raisins, and dates, with fresh (not salt) cheese, -vinegar, oil, honey, and wine, reduced by boiling to one half; add garum -to this mixture.[XXIII-41] - -The _Moretaria_ appears to be a variety of the Hypotrimma; it is a -mixture of mint, rue, coriander, fennel, the whole fresh, with benzoin, -pepper, honey, and vinegar; to this, garum is added.[XXIII-42] - -Whatever may be the opinion the reader may form of this garum, of which -mention has so frequently been made, and which has been alternately -praised and despised by the moderns, it is certain that the most -fastidious persons were madly fond of it, and that in the time of Pliny, -it was so much esteemed, that its price equalled that of the most -precious perfumes. - -“At the present day this celebrated seasoning is forgotten in Italy, but -in Turkey it is still in use. The inn-keepers of Constantinople preserve -in garum the cooked fish not consumed in the day.”--BOSC. - - -HONEY. - -What is sweeter than honey?[XXIII-43] what is more pure,[XXIII-44] or -more nourishing?[XXIII-45] It is the milk of the aged, it prolongs their -existence,[XXIII-46] and when they descend into the tomb, it still -serves to embalm them.[XXIII-47] - -Pagan antiquity ascribed the honour of the discovery of this useful -substance to the Athenian Aristæus, who taught mankind to feed on it. -This valuable service procured him a patent of nobility. He was made a -descendant of Bacchus or Apollo.[XXIII-48] - -It is not necessary to say that honey was known in the east long before -the rise of Athens; it is already mentioned in the first book of the -holy writings.[XXIII-49] - -It is said that Spain owed its knowledge of this delicious aliment to -Gorgor, King of the Curetes, who was polite enough to take some on the -occasion of a journey which he made into that country.[XXIII-50] The -Peninsula could afterwards furnish this delicacy for the tables of Rome -and Italy. - -The Greeks esteemed honey most highly;[XXIII-51] they employed it in -pastry, and in _ragoûts_;[XXIII-52] their philosopher, Pythagoras, eat -nothing else with his bread, and, as he lived to be ninety years old, he -recommended his disciples to follow the same _régime_.[XXIII-53] They -profited by th sage’s counsel, and found themselves all the better for -it.[XXIII-54] - -A benevolent goddess protected bees, hives, and the honeycomb. She was -called Mellona, and a grateful piety offered her honey every new-year’s -day.[XXIII-55] - -Theophrastus distinguished three kinds of honey: that which the bees -extract from flowers, that which comes from the air, and lastly, the -honey from reeds.[XXIII-16] We clearly perceive that he means honey, -manna, and sugar. - -Virgil thought that a gentle dew falls on the flowers, and became -immediately the prey of bees, which deposited it in their -cells.[XXIII-17] Pliny has adopted the same graceful error,[XXIII-18] -and even Galen himself partakes of it.[XXIII-19] - -The ancients caused honey to be served at the beginning of a -repast;[XXIII-60] it was used in lieu of sugar in the preparation of -preserves and some kinds of beverages, which will hereafter claim our -attention. They preferred that of Attica,[XXIII-61] and insisted on its -being thick, clear, granulated, transparent, fresh, and aromatic, with a -somewhat sharp flavour.[XXIII-62] The faculty attributed to it great -virtues.[XXIII-63] - -Honey served as a basis to the wonderful seasoning of Apicius, which we -present to the studious investigation of modern gastronomy:--Put fifteen -pounds of honey into a brass vessel, containing two pints of wine. Warm -at a very gentle fire, stir, and when it rises, pour over more wine. Let -the mixture rise three times, then take it from the fire, and skim it -the next day. Then add four ounces of ground pepper, three scruples of -gum, a drachm of spikenard, a drachm of saffron, five drachms of dried -dates, after softening them in wine; pour on the whole eighteen pints of -light wine.[XXIII-64] - -The _Oxyporon_ was another seasoning much in vogue two thousand years -ago, and in which honey was the principal ingredient. It was composed by -mixing two ounces of cummin seed, one ounce of ginger, one ounce of -green rue, and six scruples of nitre, with one ounce of pepper, and -twelve scruples of fine dates; nine ounces of honey were then poured -over the whole.[XXIII-65] - -Sometimes they contented themselves with macerating cummin seed in -vinegar, which they left to dry, and then pounded it; that done, it was -put into honey.[XXIII-66] - -“The honey most esteemed is the white, granulated, and of an aromatic -flavour. The honey from the French provinces of Narbonne, the Gatinais, -or Britanny, is the most esteemed. Honey is next of kin to sugar, having -the same properties. It is frequently used in domestic economy, and in -medicine as a laxative. It enters into a number of remedies, either as a -corrective, or an excipient.”--“_Dictio. Encycl._” - - -SUGAR. - -Theophrastus, the first among the ancients who speaks of sugar, classes -it among the number of honeys.[XXIII-67] Dioscorides also calls it -“honey of reeds;” he adds that these reeds grow in India, or in Arabia -Felix, and that the agreeable substance they contain has some analogy -with salt.[XXIII=68] Pliny also gives it the same name. It is, according -to this naturalist, a kind of honey, with which certain reeds are -filled, and used only in medicine.[XXIII-69] - -This was also the opinion of many ancient authors;[XXIII-70] one of -whom, Paul Eginetta, calls sugar--Indian salt.[XXIII-71] - -The sugar cane appears to be originally a native of the East Indies. -From the most remote ages the Chinese have understood the art of -cultivating it. The histories of the Egyptians, Phœnicians, and Jews, -make no mention of it. The Greek physicians are the first who speak of -it. - -It was not till the year 1471 that a Venetian discovered the method of -purifying brown sugar and making loaf sugar. He gained an immense -fortune by this discovery.[XXIII-72] - -Sugar cane, well purified, and disburthened of all foreign matter, is -white, solid, inodorous, soluble in water, of a soft and agreeable -savour. Its specific gravity is 1.6065; it is used as a seasoning in a -multitude of dishes, in preparing syrups, preserving of fruits, _&c._, -_&c._ - - -CINNAMON. - -In the time of Theophrastus, it was said that cinnamon grew in a dark -and silent valley, guarded night and day by fearful serpents. Animated -by the hope of gain, some individuals, careless of their existence, -risked their lives by gathering some of this precious bark. When they -had the good luck to avoid the vigilant reptiles, they consecrated to -the sun part of their booty, which the radiant orb immediately consumed -to prove his acceptance of the offering.[XXIII-73] - -Others, thinking this little tale on the subject of cinnamon rather too -dramatic, pretended that the shrub furnishing it was found only on high -mountains, to which man was forbidden all access. But fortunately -certain birds--the phoenix, among others--great amateurs of aromatics, -make their nests of its small branches; these nests are taken, and in -this manner, whether the year be good or bad, a sufficient stock of -cinnamon is obtained without much trouble.[XXIII-74] Pliny recognises -two kinds of it--one white, the other black, both of which were brought -to Rome from Ethiopia, in the reign of Vespasian.[XXIII-75] - -Eighty years after (A.D. 164), Galen informs us that cinnamon was still -very scarce in Italy; that the Emperors alone possessed any; and that -they even preserved it among the curiosities they made it their pleasure -to collect and keep in their palaces.[XXIII-76] - -The same writer regards this so precious and uncommon cinnamon as an -excellent cordial and a good digestive.[XXIII-77] - -We may add that it was only well known in Europe after the frequent -voyages of the Portuguese to India.[XXIII-78] - -However, in 1168, an abbot of St. Gilles, in Languedoc, having a favour -to ask of Louis-le-Jeune, thought there was no better means of -persuading him to grant it than to send him a small stock of -cinnamon.[XXIII-79] - -Our forefathers (in the middle ages) had their tables furnished with -cinnamon sauce; nutmeg, mustard, and garlic sauces; cold sauces; parsley -and vinegar sauces, hot sauces, hell sauces, burgher sauces; cherry, -plum, mulberry, grape, gorse, rose, and flower sauces. They were served -with roast meat. - -Cinnamon is daily employed in medicine, in diarrhœa, several fevers, -&c., &c., and in pharmacy. That from China is much thicker than the -others, its colour darker, and its odour more powerful; essential oil is -drawn from it, and preserved in flagons, sealed with the arms of -government, and sold at a very high price. - - -CLOVES. - -Cloves were very little known to the ancients. Theophrastus, -Dioscorides, and Galen do not speak of them. - -Pliny says that some cloves were brought to Rome, very similar to -grains of pepper but a little longer; that they were only to be found in -India, in a wood consecrated to the gods; and that they served in the -fabrication of perfumes.[XXIII-80] - -The conquest of India by the Portuguese rendered them common throughout -Europe. - -Cloves contain a considerable quantity of essential aromatic oil, thick, -brown, and very heavy, to which it owes its aromatic properties and -sharp burning savour. Cloves are employed as a seasoning or as medicine. - - -PEPPER. - -The two great cities of antiquity knew how to appreciate pepper, and -employed it largely in their culinary labours. They distinguished two -kinds: one round, the other long and thin.[XXIII-81] - -Dioscorides and Pliny describe the shrub, on which are to be seen pods -filled with seeds of pepper, resembling millet, according to the first -of these writers, and like small beans, according to the -other.[XXIII-82] - -Our readers no doubt remember the importance which Apicius ascribes to -pepper, in the learned recipes of that skilful _Archimagirus_. - - -VERJUICE. - -Verjuice, the use of which is very ancient, was used more in -pharmaceutical preparations than in the seasoning of food.[XXIII-83] -Galen attributes to it refreshing qualities, and advises it in certain -cases.[XXIII-84] - -Verjuice is a kind of grape, very acid, and which never gets perfectly -ripe. The _suc_ of verjuice is used in medicine and culinary preparation -as an astringent. The juice is not proper to make wine, but a very -agreeable syrup is obtained from it. - - -VINEGAR. - -The greater part of ancient nations were acquainted with the use of -vinegar. Reapers in the east soaked their bread in it, to freshen -it[XXIII-85] The Greeks esteemed that of Cnide, of Sphette, of Cleone, -and above all the vinegar of Egypt,[XXIII-86] which was reputed to be -the best among the Romans, who tempered its acrimony by mixing with it -some sweet substance.[XXIII-87] - -These masters of the world did not fancy they possessed all the comforts -of life when they wanted vinegar; therefore they always had a large -provision of it in their cellars, as all their seasonings -proved.[XXIII-88] - -This passion (for it certainly amounted to a passion) is easily -explained by the admirable qualities they attributed to the pungent -liquid. It was believed to be astringent, digestive, antibilious, -refreshing, and an antiscorbutic.[XXIII-89] Mixed with water, it was the -drink of the soldiers,[XXIII-90] who, thanks to this beverage, braved -the intemperance of the seasons and the different climates of Europe, -Africa, and Asia. - -The Greeks and Romans esteemed highly their pickles: these consisted of -flowers, herbs, roots, and vegetables, preserved in vinegar, and which -kept a long time in cylindrical vases with wide mouths.[XXIII-91] They -were prepared with the greatest care; and these plants were often -macerated in oil, brine, and vinegar, with which they were impregnated -drop by drop.[XXIII-92] Meat, also, cut in very small pieces, was -treated in the same manner. - -Vinegar of an exorbitant price was obtained from some precious wines, -and that price was again increased by the proverbial cupidity of some -butlers in great houses. We doubt much, however, whether any of those -worthy personages ever made such a bill as a certain French seigneur -dared to do under the reign of Louis XIII. It is said that the Duc de la -Meilleraye, grand master of the artillery of France, presented to the -minister a bill in which figured an article of 1,300,000 francs -(£52,000), for vinegar to cool the cannons! The sum appeared rather -large, but La Meilleraye was a near relation of Richelieu, and the -article passed without the least contestation.[XXIII-93] - - -TRUFFLE. - -A truffled turkey was to be eaten at a dinner where Buffon was invited. -A few minutes before setting down to table, an elderly lady inquired of -the celebrated naturalist where the truffle grew. “At your feet, -madame.” The lady did not understand; but it was thus explained to her: -“_C’est au pied des charmes_” (yoke elm tree). The compliment appeared -to her most flattering. Towards the end of the dinner, some one asked -the same question of the illustrious writer, who, forgetting that the -lady was beside him, innocently replied: “They grow _aux pieds des vieux -charmes_” (old yoke elm trees). The lady overheard him, and no longer -thought anything of his amiability. - -Nevertheless Buffon was right. It was around the yoke elm trees of -Lampsachus, Acarnidea, Alopecomesia, and Elis, that those famous -truffles were discovered, whose reputation was spread in all parts and -which Italy envied Greece.[XXIII-94] - -The truffle! beloved treasure that the earth conceals within her -bosom--as she does the precious metals, which she seems to have yielded -grudgingly to the patient researches of the gastronomist; the magiric -records do not tell us at what memorable epoch this exquisite tubercle -astonished, for the first time, the palate of man; but a doubtful -tradition maintains that a vile animal (a pig), guided by his marvellous -gluttony, found out the existence of this pearl of banquets. - -Pliny was very much inclined to range the truffles amidst astonishing -prodigies. He fancied that he saw it at its birth increase without -roots, without the slightest fibre, without the least capillary vessel -likely to transmit to it nutritious juices;[XXIII-95] therefore he -believed that, sown by thunder-bolts in the autumnal storms,[XXIII-96] -this daughter of thunder grew like minerals by juxta-position, and -relates on this subject the history of Lartius Licinius, governor of -Spain, who, while biting a truffle with avidity, broke one of his teeth -against a Roman denarius which chance alone had inclosed within -it.[XXIII-97] - -The Greeks thought a great deal of a delicious species of truffles, -smooth outside, red within, which were found just under the surface of -the ground, and did not show the slightest appearance of -vegetation.[XXIII-98] Another kind was also much sought after by -amateurs, probably on account of their scarcity. They were originally -from Africa, and called cyrenaïc, white outside, of an excellent -perfume, and exquisite flavour.[XXIII-99] - -The Athenians, enlightened appreciates of all sorts of merits, accepted -with gratitude a _ragoût_ with truffles, invented by Cherips. That -culinary genius did not long enjoy his glory; a premature death carried -him off from his stoves, his honours, and his fortune; but the Greeks -did not bury their gratitude in his tomb; his sons became citizens of -Athens, and the name of their father, more fortunate than that of -Christopher Columbus, clung for ever to his brilliant -discovery.[XXIII-100] - -The doctors of other days did not exactly agree upon the quality either -good or bad of truffles. Philoxenes, whose opinion met with many -partisans, would have it that a great quantity should be eaten cooked -under the ashes, and deliciously impregnated with a succulent -sauce.[XXIII-101] It was, however, recommended to choose them with the -most particular attention, because some had the reputation of being as -poisonous as mushrooms.[XXIII-102] - -The Romans were as fond of truffles as the Greeks, and that is not -saying little.[XXIII-103] Apicius gives a method of preparing them which -is as follows:-- - -After they are boiled in water, put a little stick through them, and -then place them for an instant before the fire; season them afterwards -with oil, a little meat gravy, some skirrets, wine, pepper, and honey, -in proper proportions. When the sauce is boiling, make a thickening, and -serve.[XXIII-104] - -The illustrious epicurean prepared them also with pepper, benzoin, -coriander and rue, to which he added a little honey, oil, and -gravy.[XXIII-105] - -The estimable Platina insists that, in the first place, truffles should -be washed in wine, and afterwards cooked under the ashes; and that they -be served hot, and sprinkled over with salt and pepper.[XXIII-106] - -This is the composition of a syrup of truffles, taken from the old -Arabian medicine. We believe it to be very little known, and should not -be surprised if it were, some day, to obtain the renown it seems to -deserve. It was composed of truffles, balm, and holy thistle, boiled in -water with sugar; and to each pound of the decoction was added one -scruple of water distilled from honey, and half an ounce of some -spirit--say, for example, spirits of wine--to each pound of liquor. The -whole was aromatised with musk and a little rose-water. Two ounces of -this syrup were administered hot,[XXIII-107] in cases of weakness. - -Salmasius, who knew much of the Greek tongue, and very little of -cookery, avers that the ancients knew two different kinds of truffles. -One species was similar to ours, and the other a variety from Africa, -already mentioned, white outside and the size of a quince.[XXIII-108] -Leo the African, says that the Arabs cook these truffles in milk, and -that they think them exquisite. Thereupon Salmasius exclaims against the -insipidity of this dish, or the ignorance of Leo the African; and -immediately points out, with an air of triumph, the celebrated Avicenna, -who informs us that, after the truffles were peeled and cut in small -pieces, they were cooked in water and salt, and then dished up with oil, -benzoin, and spices. Salmasius will have it that Avicenna’s truffles had -no other flavour than that given by the sauce, and he has no forgiveness -for those poor Arabs who dared to dress them otherwise. - -If this clever Hellenist had studied this savoury tubercle with as much -care as he bestowed on the writers of the history of Augustus, he would -have learned that the peculiar perfume which distinguishes it retains, -in the midst of seasoning the most laboriously prepared, the same power -it possesses when eaten by itself, and without any dressing. - -Apicius had less of literature than Salmasius, but he was most assuredly -gifted in a very superior degree with that _mens divinior_ which makes -great cooks and illustrious poets. This assimilation has nothing -surprising in it, if we only remember that genius is nothing else than -the faculty of producing; and who ever bequeathed to posterity -productions more exquisite than those of Archestrates and Apicius? - -Let us hear from this latter how to preserve truffles. You must be -careful not to put them in contact with water; that is to say, that they -ought to be kept very dry. They are placed separately in vessels, and -covered with iron filings, or saw-dust. Close each vessel hermetically -with plaster, and keep them in a dark and cool place.[XXIII-109] - -The truffle is a very remarkable vegetable, which, without stems, roots, -or fibres, grows of itself, isolated in the bosom of the earth, -absorbing the nutritive juice. Its form is round, more or less regular; -its surface is smooth or tuberculous; the colour dark-brown outside, -brown, grey, or white within. Its tissue is formed of articulated -filaments, between which are spheric vesicles, and in the interior are -placed reproductive bodies, small brown spheres, called _truffinelles_. -Truffles vegetate to the depth of five or six inches in the high sandy -soils of the south-west of France, of Piedmont, &c., &c. Their mode of -vegetation and reproduction is not known. Dogs are trained to find them, -as well as pigs, and boars also, who are very fond of them. They are -eaten cooked under the ashes, or in wine and water. They are preserved, -when prepared in oil, which is soon impregnated with their odour. - -Poultry is stuffed with them, also geese’s livers, pies, and cooked -pork, besides numerous _ragoûts_. They possess, it is said, exciting -virtues. - - -MUSHROOMS. - -Agrippina, desirous of securing the crown to her worthy son, Nero, went -to a celebrated female poisoner, and procured a venomous preparation -which defied the most powerful antidotes.[XXIII-110] The Princess -slipped this terrible poison in a very fine _morel_ (a species of -mushroom), which Claudius eat at his supper. The unfortunate Emperor -died according to the desire of his amiable consort, who was, of course, -inconsolable for a long time, and placed among the gods the husband she -had murdered.[XXIII-111] Nero ascended the throne, and every time that -mushrooms were served at his table, true to the memory of his -father-in-law, he facetiously called this preparation the “dish of the -gods.”[XXIII-112] - -To the poisonous effects of this vegetable have been attributed, also, -the death of the Emperor Tiberius, that of Pope Clement VII., King -Charles VI. of France, and many other important personages, who either -knew very little of good cooks, or of _morels_. Notwithstanding these -tragical events, mushrooms always retained a proud position, among the -ancients, above the most inoffensive culinary plants; and their rather -doubtful reputation has not prevented them from maintaining their ground -down to our time, for we find that they now claim the same rank which -they formerly occupied in the gastronomic _réunions_ of Athens and Rome: -a sad image of those fortunate criminals, whom society dreads, and yet -often loads with its favours. - -This “voluptuous poison,” as Seneca, the philosopher,[XXIII-113] calls -it, which compels us to eat of it again, even when not -hungry,[XXIII-114] was much relished by the wealthy inhabitants of Rome -and Italy. These free-livers, careless of the morrow, preferred the -field mushroom,[XXIII-115] which they devoured with delight, having -previously covered it over with a pungent sauce, which they afterwards -neutralized with various iced beverages.[XXIII-116] It is true that this -dish, worthy of the gods, often inflicted a severe penalty on those who -yielded to its irresistible seduction; but what mortal could think of -the anguish of an uncertain poisoning, when he had the good luck to meet -with some _boleti_, or mushrooms, of the rarest description, which the -price of a beautiful toga would hardly have purchased,[XXIII-117] and -which promised some mouthfuls of ineffable, although ephemeral -enjoyment? Besides, does not pleasure possess more piquant charms when -danger is attached to it? The greater part of mushrooms are very -dangerous, say the ancients;[XXIII-118] but blind destiny, perhaps, -reserves for us certain kinds which are not so. Re-assured by this -judicious reflection, they gave orders to their cooks to stew -some,[XXIII-119] and season them with vinegar, oxymel, and -honey.[XXIII-120] - -However, reasonable people--and there were still some to be -found--abstained entirely from this vegetable, or procured it by the -method which Nicander recommends; that is to say, they frequently -watered the trunk of a fig tree after manure had been placed around it. -That philosopher assures us that by these means we may grow mushrooms -perfectly wholesome.[XXIII-121] - -Those of our readers who are in possession of fig trees will be able to -give their opinion on the merit of Nicander’s method. - -To obtain the seeds of most mushrooms, it only requires to expose them, -when fresh, upon glass; the superficies of the glass is soon covered -with it. It is also obtained by shaking in the water the mushrooms which -are sufficiently developed. This water, thus impregnated, is used to -water the beds, which become thereby more productive. - -The natural supply of mushrooms from the fields not being thought -sufficient, the art of raising them on beds during the whole year was -therefore indispensable, and required a mixture of _crottin de cheval_, -rotten dung, and mould, which is deposited in layers of one foot and -a-half in thickness and width. Seeds of mushrooms are sown on these -beds--that is to say, some of the mould of a former bog impregnated with -it. It is then covered over with all the dung not consumed, and then -copiously watered. - -“At the end of a very few days, the beds begin to produce mushrooms, and -keep on producing until the winter.”--BOSC. - - - - -XXIV. - -PASTRY. - - -The art of the pastry-cook consists in preparing certain delicate and -nice pastes in all sorts of shapes, in seasoning them with discretion, -and in sufficient quantity, with meat, butter, sugar, preserves, -&c.[XXIV-1] It is a most important branch of the culinary science; -unceasingly occupied with flattering the sight as much as the taste, it -raises graceful monuments, delicious fortresses, seductive ramparts, -which as soon as they are on all sides attacked, totter, crumble, and no -longer present anything but glorious and ephemeral ruins, like every -other work of man--all pass away whether they be temples, columns, -pyramids, or pies. - -This charming art was known to ancient nations as soon as their -intellectual development had enabled them to understand a certain -gastronomic truth, long since become a trivial axiom, and of which we -dare scarcely remind the reader: “_On ne mange pour vivre que lorsqu’on -ne sait pas vivre pour manger._” (People only eat to live when they do -not understand how to live to eat.) - -The oriental nations were acquainted with the art of making pastry at a -very early period. The Egyptians served many different sorts of cakes at -their tables;[XXIV-2] the Jews knew of at least three kinds--one sort -kneaded with oil, another fried in oil, and the last was merely rubbed -over with oil.[XXIV-3] - -The enlightened gluttony of the Greeks and Romans inspired them with a -host of combinations more or less ingenious, and destined to revive a -failing appetite, or one already greatly compromised by vigorous -onslaughts. - -Some of these pastries would appear very nice to us in the present day; -others we should think but little worthy of the epicures of Rome and -Athens. However, let us not be in too great a hurry to condemn these -great masters. Doubtless they had excellent reasons to like that which -modern taste may despise and dislike. In return, they might have thought -some of our most fashionable dishes detestable; perhaps Apicius might -have made a strange grimace at the sight of a dish of sour-crout, an -olla-podrida, or an immense plum-pudding. - -_Oublies_, a light dainty for those who have weak stomachs, were thin -sheets of paste composed of flour and honey, which rolled into a spiral -form as soon as they approached the oven. They were eaten soaked in -cooked wine.[XXIV-4] Persons of taste preferred _oublies_ to fritters--a -bold mixture of flour kneaded with wine, seasoned with pepper, and then -worked up with milk, and, finally, with a little fat or oil.[XXIV-5] - -Some cooks employed the finest flour only, mixed with oil, and served -this paste after having cooked it in a dish.[XXIV-6] Others worked -sesame flour a long time with honey and oil, and fried it.[XXIV-7] These -various kinds of fritters were, doubtless, much sought after by the -populace, for Cicero speaks of them with profound disdain.[XXIV-8] - -The Jews, less dainty than the eloquent orator, offered some of this -paste in sacrifice. The recipe for its composition is given in -Leviticus; it was made of the finest flour, moistened with oil, and -cooked in the frying-pan.[XXIV-9] - -Women and children--those two fragile roots of society--were always fond -of sweet and delicate cakes. The pastry-cooks of Attica prepared for -them some very excellent kinds; sometimes it was merely a sweet mixture -of honey and milk;[XXIV-10] others were made of honey, sesame flour, and -cheese or oil.[XXIV-11] Delicious fruit was frequently covered with a -light and perfumed paste.[XXIV-12] These Athenian dumplings met with a -great success. - -Rome made the conquest of these precious recipes,[XXIV-13] and -vanquished Greece, conquered by her, had still the glory of dictating -laws to her haughty enemy: she imposed her cookery. - -Gingerbread was not unknown to the ancients. Rhodes owed its reputation -to it. It was sweetened with honey, and that island furnished it to the -whole of Europe. The Greeks called this delicacy _Melitates_, and eat it -with pleasure at the close of their repasts.[XXIV-14] - -Let us not forget, in this rapid survey of ancient sweets, that learned -and exquisite mixture now designated under the name of _Nougat_, which, -among the Greeks was composed of dried currants and almonds, and which -has lost none of its attractions, nothing of its celebrity, after so -many centuries.[XXIV-15] - -The _Mustaceum_ did not deserve to occupy so high a standing; and yet -this rustic cake, composed of sweet wine and flour, a symbol of -abundance and happiness, never failed to be presented to the guests at a -wedding repast, and the newly-married pair sent a piece of it to each of -their absent parents or friends, who, in return, addressed them -congratulations, and wishes for their happiness.[XXIV-16] The mustaceum -was the wedding-cake of the Romans. - -Modern civilization has also rejected with equal disdain the _Savillum_ -pie, always eaten with pleasure by the voluptuous inhabitants of Rome -when they went to their villas in order to rest from their prodigious -excesses, and from the fatigues of intemperance. This nourishing and -agreeable dish required but little art in its composition. Half-a-pound -of flour and two pounds and a-half of cheese were well mixed together; -three ounces of honey and one egg were then added. When the whole had -been well beaten, it was placed in an earthen vessel rubbed over with -oil, and which was covered with a tart dish cover. It was carefully -watched to see that the process of cooking was going on; afterwards it -was taken from the dish, the pie was smeared with honey, and, for an -instant, replaced under the tart-dish cover, after having dredged the -top with pounded poppy seed. It was always served in the dish in which -it had been cooked, and was eaten with spoons.[XXIV-17] - -We have already mentioned the _Artocreas_, a kind of hashed meat mixed -with bread, which Rome borrowed from Greece, together with its original -name. This pie, welcomed by modern gastrophagy, has reached our days -with merely some slight modifications, and deprived of its sonorous -Hellenic appellation.[XXIV-18] Formerly the Roman Emperors, for the -greater part, ruled badly; but, in return, they eat well. In that -gastronomic era--gone, never to return--Cæsar’s supper engaged the -attention of the court, the city, nay, the whole empire. The conquered -universe furnished the details for a banquet, and a royal hand sometimes -deigned to write the ordinance. Now and then, even the monarch, wrapped -in profound culinary meditations, long reflected, dictated to his -_Archimagirus_ a new dish, on which complaisant senators the next day -bestowed enthusiastic praises and a sincere admiration. Thus the Emperor -Verus, inventor of a pie, barely escaped an apotheosis of which his -genius was deemed worthy. It is true that, without any exaggerated -flattery, this pie was excellent, and that never was there imagined a -more happy mixture, a more ingenious combination, of meats, or a more -refined flavour. If any one be curious enough to wish to test this -imperial dish, let him prepare a succulent amalgamation of sow’s flank -(_sumen_), pheasant, peacock, iced ham, and wild boar’s flesh; let him -inclose this mixture within the thick casing of a laboriously worked -crust, and he may attack this kingly dish when a gentle and slow cooking -causes it to emit burning yet sweet emanations.[XXIV-19] - -Here is a more modest recipe for a cake; but then it does not claim the -paternity of an emperor. However, Cato brought it much into fashion, for -the wise Cato often busied himself in the science of cookery, for which -reason he is greatly worthy of esteem. Well, we recommend to the reader -the _Libum_ of that philosopher, who indicates the manner of preparing -it:-- - -“Crush,” he says, “two pounds of cheese; mix with it a pound of rye -flour, or, in order to render it lighter, throw in merely half a pound -of wheat flour and an egg. Stir, mix, and work this paste; form of it a -cake which you will place on leaves, and cook in a tart dish on the hot -hearth.” This libum was much esteemed about twenty centuries ago; in -honour of Cato may it again be brought to light, if not completely -unworthy of our attention.[XXIV-20] Could we not also rehabilitate the -reputation of the most celebrated of ancient pies, the _Placenta_, which -so delighted mankind, and by which the gods even allowed their fury to -be appeased?[XXIV-21] Renowned writers have granted it the authority of -their praise;[XXIV-22] and the illustrious geoponist, already cited, -describes with lengthened complaisance the manner of preparing this -important dish:-- - -“Place, on one side, two pounds of rye flour, which will serve to form -the foundation, on which must be placed biscuits, formed of crisp paste; -on the other, put four pounds of wheat; and two pounds of alica (grains -of fine wheat, stripped of their husks and crushed; to which was added, -in order to whiten them, a peculiar kind of chalk found between Naples -and Pouzzoli[XXIV-23]). This latter must be left to infuse in water, -and, when well soaked, it must be thrown into a kneading trough, and -well worked with the hand. You then mix with it the four pounds of wheat -flour, in order to make the whole into biscuits, or dry marchpans. This -paste must be worked in a basket, and, as it dries, each separate -marchpan must be shaped. When they have acquired a convenient form, rub -them on all sides with a piece of stuff soaked in oil, and the same must -be done to the foundation of the placenta before placing the marchpans -on it. During these preparations, make the hearth very hot, as well as -the cover of the tart dish intended to cook it. Then spread the two -pounds of rye flour you have in reserve over fourteen pounds of cheese -of sheep’s milk. Make of this a light paste for the foundation already -mentioned. This cheese ought to be very fresh, and previously soaked in -three waters. It is allowed to drain slowly between the hands, and when -it has been left to dry, it is kneaded. Take a flour sieve, and pass the -cheese through it before mixing it with the rye. Then add four pounds -and a half of good honey; mix well; place the foundation, furnished with -its band, on a board a foot square, covered with bay leaves rubbed with -oil, and form the placenta. Begin by covering the whole of the base with -a layer of marchpans, which you place one after the other, and cover -slightly with cheese mixed with honey. Finally, you arrange the -marchpans on the foundation, and prepare the hearth to a moderate degree -of heat; place the placenta on it; cover it with the tart dish cover -already heated, and spread live charcoal underneath and all around. The -cooking must be done very slowly, and as soon as the pie is taken from -the hearth, it must be rubbed with honey.”[XXIV-24] - -The great desire we had to inform the reader of some of the methods of -making ancient pastry will, perhaps, induce him to receive with -indulgence the rather diffuse recipe of the worthy Cato. The following -is much more concise; it relates to the relishing _Globi_, little -globes, or balls, eaten at dessert: - -Mix cheese and alica, and of this mixture make the globi, which cook one -after the other, or two at a time, in boiling oil. Stir them constantly -with a spoon; take them out; rub them over with honey, and serve, having -previously dredged over them a little poppy-seed.[XXIV-25] - -Everyone will confess that all these cakes are inferior to the simple -and elegant pastry with which the inhabitants of Picenum (marshes of -Ancona) regaled themselves. They placed some alica to soak in water, and -left it there for the space of nine days; the tenth day they kneaded it, -and formed it into round, flat cakes, which they cooked in the oven in -earthen baking-dishes easily broken. When these kind of biscuits were to -be eaten, they were first softened in milk and honey.[XXIV-26] - -Apicius also made globi of great delicacy with the crumb of fine bread, -shaped into balls, which were left to soak in milk, and which, on their -being withdrawn from the boiling oil, he lightly covered with -honey.[XXIV-27] - -We conclude with three recipes by this amateur cook, in the hope that -they may appear worthy of his genius:-- - -“Mix pine nuts, pepper, honey, rue, and cooked wine; cover with eggs -well beaten; submit this mixture to a slow fire, and serve, after having -smeared it with honey.”[XXIV-28] - -“Cook the finest flour in some milk, of which make a tolerably stiff -paste; spread it on a dish; cut it in pieces, which, when you have fried -in very fine oil, cover with pepper and honey.”[XXIV-29] - -“Make a compact mixture of milk, honey, and eggs; let it cook very -slowly, and serve, after having sprinkled over it a little -pepper.”[XXIV-30] - -These details will, we hope, give a sufficient idea of ancient pastry. -We must remember that these recipes form, as it were, the starting -point. The oil fritter of the Hebrews and the meringues of our period -are wide apart: more than thirty-three centuries separate the two; two -thousand years have elapsed since Cato wrote the recipe for his somewhat -heavy tart. The author of the “Culinary Art,” Apicius himself, is very -old. The private life of the ancient people appears to be worthy of -serious study; but we too often only bestow on it our disdain. The -author of this work has observed their customs in the kitchen and in the -dining-room--the only places to which he had access--and he has taken -the liberty of writing the result of his investigations. Sometimes he -admires, but never does he despise, a civilisation different to our own, -but which was not without its good side. He conjures the reader to -believe him when he says, that whatever eccentricities the gastronomy of -ancient nations may present to us, those people (he has, perhaps, -acquired the right to venture such an assertion) doubtless eat in a very -different manner from ourselves; but they certainly knew how to eat. - -The pastry just mentioned is certainly not altogether -irreproachable--that is clear; but many kinds reveal that exquisite -sentiment of the good which is nothing else than taste--whether it -relate to art, literature or cooking--and the entire development of -which seems to have been the appurtenance of a small number of -privileged centuries. Great epochs--such as those of Pericles, Augustus, -Leo XII., Louis XIV., and Queen Anne--have seen roses and myrtles -flourish by the side of the laurels with which the muses are crowned. -Charles XII. was fond of tartlets; Frederic II. gave himself fits of -indigestion by eating Savoy cakes; and the Maréchal de Saxe rested from -the fatigues of glory before a plate of macaroons. - -We have renounced the kind of pastry with which our ancestors used to -regale themselves in the 14th century. Their stag pies[XXIV-31] are no -longer in vogue; neither have we any taste for their great pies which -contained a lamb or a stuffed kid, surrounded with goslings by dozens -and scores.[XXIV-32] - -Their tarts have fallen into the same oblivion. Who thinks now of their -Janus, or double-faced, tarts, herb tarts, rose-leaf tarts, oat tarts, -or chesnut tarts?[XXIV-33] - -The first statutes given to the pastry cooks by St. Louis (May, 1270), -sanctioned their custom of working on all festival days without -exception. Now, the motive for such a toleration was probably this: the -pagans had their festivals, which they passed in banqueting; the Romans -called them _dies epulatæ_.[XXIV-34] The early Christians, although they -gave up the worship of false gods, preserved certain customs in which -they had been brought up, among which was that of public and private -banquets on festival days.[XXIV-35] We still see some remains of these -customs in the village rejoicings on the Continent, on the day of their -patron saint. The Fathers of the Church and the Councils raised their -voices against this abuse;[XXIV-36] but they were obliged to tolerate -it, and the pastry-cooks, who were very busy on those occasions, -profited by the indulgence. It is as well to remark that they were, at -one and the same time, publicans, roasters (that is, they would roast -anything for anybody), and cooks. - -Under the ministry of the Chancelier de l’Hôpital, little pies, or -patties, were hawked through all the streets of Paris, and there was an -enormous consumption of them. The severe minister considered them a -luxury, which it was incumbent upon him to suppress; so he prohibited, -not their sale, but the crying of them, as a temptation to gluttony. - -There is a kind of cake much in vogue in England, on Good Friday, -designated hot-cross-bun, because it is always marked with a cross. The -reader will, perhaps, take some interest in the observations of Bryant -on the subject of this pastry:-- - -“The offerings,” says he, “which people in ancient times used to -present to the gods were generally purchased at the entrance of the -temple; especially every species of consecrated bread, which was -denominated accordingly. One species of sacred bread which used to be -offered to the gods was of great antiquity, and called _Boun_.” It was a -kind of cake, with a representation of two horns. Julius Pollux mentions -it after the same manner--a sort of cake with horns. Diogenes Laertius, -speaking of the same offering being made by Empedocles, describes the -chief ingredients of which it was composed:--“He offered one of the -sacred _liba_, called a _bonse_ (_bons_), which was made of fine flour -and honey.”[XXIV-37] England seems, then, to have retained the name and -the form of the ancient _bons_, though the people do not recognise in -the bun anything sacred or holy. - -Titus Livy said, in speaking of Rome, “The greatest things have small -beginnings.” This applies equally to pastry, which appears so unworthy -of attention at the commencement of the middle ages that nothing seems -to announce its high destiny. At first, in the southern provinces, -people simply mixed flour, oil, and honey. The Roman school was still in -force. The inhabitants of the north had a mind to innovate; they -employed eggs, butter, and salt. Then came the idea of inclosing within -this paste cooked meat, seasoned with bacon and spices; and, from -progress to progress, they at last inclosed cream, fruit, and -marmalades.[XXIV-38] - -We find pastry mentioned for the first time in a charter of -Louis-le-Débonnaire (802). It is there said that a certain farm of the -Abbey of St. Denis is to furnish, at certain festivals, sixteen measures -of honey, eleven hundred oxen, and five hogsheads of flour to make -pastry.[XXIV-39] - -A charter of the church of Paris, 1202, mentions simnels or wigs, under -the name of “_panes leves qui dicuntur echaudati_.” Joinville speaks, in -“The life of St. Louis,” of cheese fritters cooked in the sun, which the -Saracens presented to that king and his knights when they restored them -to liberty. And, finally, so early as the 13th century, the _flans_ of -Chartres, the patties of Paris, and the tarts of Dourlans, were in great -renown; and a charter of 1301 informs us that, at that epoch, several -lords imposed on their vassals a tribute of _fugués_, or -puff-pastry.[XXIV-40] - -The cook of Charles V. says, that the word _tourte_ signified a -household loaf of a round form; that this name was afterwards given to -delicate pastry; and that, by corruption, it was called _tart_ in -certain provinces.[XXIV-41] - -Taillevant speaks of cream, almonds, and rose-water, as the -accompaniments of _Darioles_, a kind of custard; and of _Talmouses_, a -sort of cheese-cake, made of cheese, eggs, and butter, coloured with the -yolks of eggs.[XXIV-42] - -Platina cites tarts made with radishes, quinces, gourds, elder-berry -flowers, rice, oatmeal, millet, chesnuts, cherries, dates, May-herbs, -roses, and, lastly, the white, or cream tart.[XXIV-43] - - - - -XXV. - -WATER. - - -Thales, who borrowed from Egypt the elements of philosophy, which he -afterwards spread in Greece, taught that water is the vivifying -principle of all things; that nature is thereby made fruitful; that -without it the earth, arid and laid waste, would be a frightful desert, -where every effort of man to support his existence must fail.[XXV-1] - -These ideas, for a long time adopted by Pagan theology, peopled -fountains, rivers, and seas, with divinities, and often confounded in -the same worship those gods, sons of gratitude, with the limpid waters -consecrated to them. - -The Persians carried their veneration for this element so far, that they -dared not wash their hands, and would have preferred being consumed to -the very bone rather than dip themselves in a river.[XXV-2] - -The Cappadocians were proud of treading in the same path.[XXV-3] - -The Egyptians offered prayers and homage to water.[XXV-4] The Nile, in -particular, received their adorations under the name of _Ypeus_, or -_Siris_, and they offered to it--as a sacrifice--barley, wheat, sugar, -and fruit.[XXV-5] - -The Scythians honoured the Danube on account of its vast extent; the -Thessalians prostrated themselves before the majestic shores of the -Peneus; the ancient combat of Achelous with Hercules made it sacred to -the Ætolians; by a special law, the Lacedæmonians were compelled to -implore the Eurotas; and a religious precept forced the Athenians to -incense in honour of the Ilissus.[XXV-6] - -The Greeks and Romans did not fail to follow such good examples. The -fountains and rivers had their altars. The Rhine was called a god; and -when Æneas arrived in Italy, he prayed it might be favourable to -him.[XXV-7] - -However strange such superstition may appear, it is, nevertheless, -conceivable that Paganism, struck with wonder at the flux and reflux of -the sea, and at the phenomena presented by several celebrated springs, -and seduced by the charming fictions of doubtful poesy, should have -deified an element both beneficial and terrible, since it could not cry -out with the prophet king: “The Lord on high is mightier than the noise -of many waters, yea than the mighty waves of the sea.”[XXV-8] - -Thence came the innumerable number of tutelary gods to which the Ocean -alone gave an asylum. By Thetis it became the father of the seventy-two -Oceanides, and the fifty Nereides called it their grandfather. Hesiod -numbered three thousand nymphs, and he probably forgot a few of them. We -say nothing of the Naiades, the Napææ, the Limnades, and so many others -whom fable was pleased to recognise, and whom it described as joyfully -disporting in the water. - -Greece exhausted the treasures of its poetical imagination to embellish -her fountains, beloved retreats of the timid Naiades. Several were -remarkable for the beauty of their architecture and the extreme delicacy -of their execution. - -Megara, in Achaia, possessed one celebrated for its magnificence. That -of Pirene, at Corinth, was surrounded with white marble, in which were -placed grottoes which unceasingly supplied a vast and superb basin. -Another fountain of Corinth, named Lerna, offered to loungers an elegant -portico, under which some very commodious seats allowed them to enjoy, -during summer, the freshness which the water communicated to the -atmosphere. - -In the sacred wood of Æsculapius, at Epidaurus, a splendid fountain was -seen whose marvellous beauty attracted all eyes.[XXV-9] Lastly, those of -Messina, known under the names of Arsinoe and of Clepsydra, yielded -nothing in richness of material and finish of details to the most -renowned monuments of Greece. - -The Athenians named four officers to keep watch and ward over the -water.[XXV-10] The other Greek towns followed the example. These -officers had to keep the fountains in order and clean the -reservoirs,[XXV-11] so that the water might be preserved pure and -limpid. - -The Romans at first contented themselves with water from the Tiber. King -Ancus Martius[XXV-12] was the first[XXV-13] to build aqueducts, destined -to convey the water of the fountain of Piconia from Tibur to Rome, a -distance of about thirty-three thousand paces. Some have honoured the -censor, Appius Claudius, for this magnificent undertaking,[XXV-14] to -whom is certainly due the celebrated Appian Way.[XXV-15] These gigantic -works greatly multiplied in time. Under the reign of Nero, Rome had nine -principal aqueducts[XXV-16] constructed, the pipes of which were of -bricks, baked tiles, stone, lead, or wood.[XXV-17] - -According to the calculation of Vigenerus,[XXV-18] 500,000 hogsheads of -water were conveyed into Rome every twenty-four hours, by 10,850 small -channels, the internal circumference of which was one inch. The water -was received in large closed basins, above which were raised splendid -monuments. These basins--or _châteaux d’eau_--_castella -Aquarum_--supplied other subterraneous conduits connected with the -various quarters of the town,[XXV-19] which conveyed water to small -reservoirs--_fontes_--furnished with taps, for the exclusive use of -certain streets.[XXV-20] The water which was not drinkable ran out by -means of large pipes into extensive inclosures, where it served to water -cattle. At these places the people washed their linen, and here, too, -they had a ready resource in case of fire.[XXV-21] - -Augustus created water commissaries, who took care that all water coming -into Rome by the aqueducts was fairly distributed in every public place, -and to those of the inhabitants who had obtained the privilege of having -it enter their houses.[XXV-22] - -But the “ingenious thirst”[XXV-23] of the conquerors of the world could -not content itself with a delicious water which nature furnished free of -expense. Was it not too much for human endurance, that not only the air -and the sun could not be offered to the highest bidder,[XXV-24] but that -the same spring was to quench the thirst of obscure plebeians on equal -terms with the rich patrician? - -Intemperance and luxury very soon contrived to find excellent means of -remedying a state of things so intolerable. The custom of preserving -snow in cellars, to obtain cool beverages, is very old. Aristotle -pointed out the method of boiling water, and putting the vessel -afterwards in snow, in order to obtain ice. Rome had recourse to this -expedient, which was afterwards replaced with advantage, under Nero, by -constructing ice houses for the use of opulent epicureans.[XXV-25] - -This even was not enough for voluptuous Romans, slaves to their strange -caprices; their beverages did not appear to them as yet sufficiently -cool,[XXV-26] and the summit of the Alps was put under contribution to -furnish ice for the fashionable tables of the imperial city.[XXV-27] - -The Romans were also frequently supplied with snow water,[XXV-28] -clarified by being passed through the _colum nivarium_, or snow -cullender,[XXV-29] a charming little utensil of silver, pierced with a -great number of holes, through which the iced beverage passed into a -recipient beneath. This drink was sometimes mortal, but always -exquisite.[XXV-30] From this vessel, it was poured into an _ampula_, or -a sort of crystal bottle of rotund form, which was often enormously dear -on account of the elaborate chasing with which it was -embellished.[XXV-31] This water bottle, with its long and narrow neck, -was the principal ornament of the sideboards and tables, when it bore -the name of some skilful artist from Campania or the Island of -Samos.[XXV-32][O] - -Iced beverage lost all its charm at the end of the fine season, and hot -water took its place during winter.[XXV-33] The same custom existed in -Greece in the best classes of society.[XXV-34] At Rome, it was much more -general, for there were a great number of taverns, where the middle -classes and citizens of the lowest order gorged themselves copiously -with pork and warm water. The Emperor Claudius caused them to be closed, -and severely punished the proprietors of those houses who opposed his -ordinance.[XXV-35] - -At the commencement of the repast, a copper vessel was placed on the -table purposely to boil water. It was much like a French _bouilloire_ -(which nearly resembles a tankard), and contained a cylinder of about -four inches in diameter, covered with a moving lid, and pierced with -holes for the ashes to pass through. They fell into the lower part of -the cylinder. The space around was filled with water by means of a small -funnel soldered to the boiler. The taps of these vases were always -slightly above the bottom, so that the sediment of the water should not -pass into the cups.[XXV-36] - -Ancient medicine attributed to water a singular curative virtue, which -it has also been supposed to possess in our days. This system, so much -talked about now by some persons, is, therefore, not new. Hippocrates -carefully distinguished the difference between good and bad -water.[XXV-37] The best, according to him, ought to be clear, light, -inodorous, without any flavour, and drawn from springs exposed to the -east.[XXV-38] He interdicts all those which proceed from melted -snow.[XXV-39] - -Asclepiades made his patients drink plentifully of water, and frequently -ordered them cold baths.[XXV-40] - -[Illustration: _Pl. 17._] - -The physician, Musa, prescribed to Augustus the same regimen, and the -Emperor found himself much benefited by it.[XXV-41] - -Under the reign of Nero, Charmis acquired a great vogue by extolling -cold baths,[XXV-42] even in the depth of winter. This dexterous native -of Marseilles knew so well how to persuade people, that he could hardly -attend to his immense connection; and as he sometimes required as much -as £800 from his patients,[XXV-43] he soon became as celebrated for his -riches as for his pretended medical genius. Who will say, after this, -that the water-cure system is good for nothing? - -“In Egypt, rich people have the water brought to them from the Nile in -leather pouches. Large and porous earthen pots of an oval shape, kept up -by supporters, are filled with it. The water at the end of a few hours -has deposited the slime it contained. It is afterwards distributed in -small vases of terra cotta, called _bardaks_, of the size of our -water-jugs. These vases are taken in the most showy part of the -habitation. In a short time the clay of the _bardaks_ is impregnated; -their surface is covered with water, which, after borrowing from the -liquid within the caloric it requires for evaporation, reduces this to a -temperature of six or seven degrees under that which it had -before.”--PARMENTIER. - -More than five centuries ago the Sieur de Joinville described the same -process. “The water of the Nile,” he said, “is of such a nature, that -when we hung it in white earthen pots, made in the country, to the -rigging of our ships, the water became in the heat of the day as cold as -spring-water.”[XXV-44] - -Sea-water is not potable, but it has long since been remarked that the -vapours which rise from the sea are soft, and it was thence concluded -that, by collecting and condensing them, it would be possible to obtain -a potable liquid fit for domestic purposes. This phenomenon was known in -the time of Pliny, who informs us that, “fleece spread about the ship, -after having received the exhalations from the sea, becomes damp, and -that fresh water may be extracted from it.”[XXV-45] - -About the middle of the last century means were found to remove - - DESCRIPTION OF PLATE No. XVII. - - No. 1. Pail, of bronze, with movable handle, covered with - hieroglyphics, to carry water from the Nile for the Feast of Isis. - - No. 2. Pail, with two handles, same metal, placed on a small tripod - to stand upon, owing to the convexity of the bottom.--ST. NON, - “_Herculaneum_.” - -the saline substances from sea-water. Boyle, Leibnitz, the Count of -Marsigli--all had made a great number of fruitless experiments. Mr. -Poissonnier invented a very simple distillating machine, with which, and -an absorbing powder, he succeeded in depriving sea-water of its -insufferable bitterness, and rendering it perfectly salubrious. About -1784, a successful experiment was made at York with a machine which -produced the same result. - -Some travellers have related, that, at the Iron Island, the only soft -water was that which was collected from a large tree, in the centre of -the island, and which was incessantly covered with clouds. The water ran -continually from the leaves, and fell into two large cisterns, -constructed at the foot of the tree, which, according to Jackson, -furnished enough for 8,000 souls, and 100,000 cattle. “Let us see,” says -Bory de Saint-Vincent, “what amount of credit is due to the marvellous -tree of the Iron Island.” Abreu Galindo, in his manuscript treatise on -the Canary Islands, preserved in the archives of the country, says that -he wished to see with his own eyes what the tree was. He embarked, -arrived, took a guide to conduct him to a place called Tigulahe, which -is separated from the sea by a valley, and there, at the extreme -boundary, under a large cliff, was the holy tree, which in the country -is called Garoë. Its trunk is twelve spans in circumference, four feet -in diameter, and nearly forty feet in height. The branches are wide -apart and tufted; its fruit resembles an acorn, and the kernel is, in -colour and taste, like the little aromatic almonds which pine nuts -contain. It never loses its leaves, that is to say, the old ones do not -fall until the young ones are formed. On the north side, are two large -stone pillars, of twenty square feet, hollowed out to a depth of twenty -spans. These pillars are so placed that the water falls into one, and is -preserved in the other. Vapours and mists rise almost every day from the -sea, particularly in the morning, and at no great distance in the -offing; these vapours are carried by the east wind against the cliffs, -which block their passage, so that they cover the tree, become condensed -on its smooth leaves, and run off drop by drop. The more the east wind -reigns, the more abundant is the supply of water. It is distributed by a -man who guards the tree. A whirlwind tore up the Garoë in 1625.[XXV-46] - - - - -XXVI. - -BEVERAGES, OF WHICH WATER IS THE FOUNDATION. - - -Water is certainly the most ancient beverage, the most simple, natural, -and the most common, which nature has given to mankind. But it is -necessary to be really thirsty in order to drink water, and as soon as -this craving is satisfied it becomes insipid and nauseous. What is then -to be done? Cyrus would have said: “Drink no more;” so would a -teetotaler of the present day. In the first ages of the world, the human -race, bound by no oath of temperance, succeeded, by sheer application of -their ingenuity, in finding something better, or perhaps worse, -according to the ideas of certain moralists, whose wise teaching, -however, commands respect. Certain it is that water, continuing to be -regarded with peculiar favour, was called to play a principal part in -various combinations by which it lost its insipidity and inoffensive -properties, and acquired the wonderful power of provoking a sort of -madness, known by the name of drunkenness. - -Those beverages which man imbibes when he is no longer thirsty, which -cloud his weak mind, and render him ill when in good health, are called -fermented liquors. - -Beer is one of the most ancient. If we are to believe Diodorus of -Sicily, Bacchus himself invented it.[XXVI-1] However, it is certain that -the absolute injunction not to drink wine, caused the inhabitants of -Egypt to have recourse to a factitious beverage obtained from -barley,[XXVI-2] often mentioned in history under the name of _zythum_ -and _curmi_,[XXVI-3] and whose invention has been often attributed to -Osiris--which means, that its precise origin is entirely unknown. - -It was a kind of beer composed of barley, and capable of being preserved -for a long time without decomposing;[XXVI-4] for instead of hops, -utterly unknown in that country, a bitter infusion of lupins was -added.[XXVI-5] - -The Egyptians also used Assyrian corn in its composition, and probably -other aromatic plants, in which each one followed his peculiar taste. -The method of brewing varied much among them;[XXVI-6] but the one here -mentioned was that most generally in use to procure zythum in Lower -Egypt, where it was converted, like our beer, into vinegar, which the -Greek merchants of Alexandria exported to the European ports.[XXVI-7] - -The Egyptians long drank nothing but this fermented liquor, because the -followers of Osiris believed that when Jupiter crushed the Titans with -thunderbolts, their blood, mixing with the earth, produced the vine. -They invented the zythum as a substitute for wine.[XXVI-8] - -It is not probable that the Greeks, whose wines were so renowned in -antiquity, thought much of beer. Nevertheless, Aristotle[XXVI-9] -mentions drunkenness being caused by drinking a beverage drawn from -barley. Æschylus[XXVI-10] and Sophocles[XXVI-11] mention a liquor -procured from the same cereal. - -The use of beer spread rapidly in Gaul, where wine was but little known -before the time of Probus. The Emperor Julian, governor of this country, -acquaints us of this fact in an epigram.[XXVI-12] - -The Spaniards, and the aborigines of Britany and Germany, also -delightfully intoxicated themselves with an “infusion of barley,” called -by the first of these nations, _cœlia_, _ceria_, -_cerevisia_,[XXVI-13] and _curmi_ by the two latter. These various -denominations signify literally, _strong water_,[XXVI-14] and this -fermented drink was common to the nations just indicated.[XXVI-15] All -the people of Western Europe drank a strong liquor made with grain and -water. The manner of preparing it was not the same in Spain, in Gaul, -and elsewhere; but everywhere it possessed the same dangerous -properties. - -“Man,” says Pliny, “is so skilful in flattering his vices, that he has -even found means to render water poisonous and intoxicating.”[XXVI-16] - -The Danes and Saxons gave themselves up to an enormous consumption of -zythum and curmi, kinds of ale and beer, varying in no other respect -than in the manner of preparing them.[XXVI-17] The warlike piety of -their ingenuous and coarse-minded heroes, desired no greater recompense, -after a life of fatigue and rough combats, than to sing the praises of -Odin amidst eternal banquets, where these exhilarating beverages might -unceasingly maintain the joy and bravery of the warriors.[XXVI-18] - -The ancient Britons had many vines, but they esteemed them only as -ornaments to their gardens; and they preferred, says Cæsar, the wine of -grain to that of grapes.[XXVI-19] It is historically demonstrated that -the English, at a very early epoch, applied themselves to the making of -beer. - -It is mentioned in the laws of Ina, Chief, or King, of Wessex; and this -liquor held a distinguished rank among those that appeared at a royal -feast in the reign of Edward the Confessor.[XXVI-20] - -Under the Normans, ale acquired a reputation it has ever since -maintained. Two gallons cost only one penny in the cities; in the -country, four gallons might be obtained at the same price. Happy age! -happy ale drinkers! At that period--the golden age for the apostles of -the Britannic Bacchus--the brewers rendered no account of the -preparation of this beloved beverage. The English nation did not yet -purchase the right of intoxicating themselves: it was not till the year -1643 that this authorization was to be bought.[XXVI-21] - -The use of hops would appear to be of German invention. They were -employed in the Low Countries at the beginning of the 14th century; but -it was not till the 16th that they were appreciated in England.[XXVI-22] - -Can it be true that beer or ale possessed, in certain cases, strange -curative properties? We find the following fact in a statistical account -of Scotland.[XXVI-23] - -A poor coal miner of the county of Clackmannan, named William Hunter, -had been long suffering with acute rheumatism, or obstinate gout, which -deprived him of the use of his limbs. The eve of the first Monday of the -year 1758, some of his neighbours came to pass the evening with him. Ale -was drunk, and they got merry. The jolly fellow never failed to empty -his glass at each round. Scotch ale is a seductive drink, and as -perfidious as pleasure: it bewilders the senses, and finally masters the -reason. William Hunter lost his, completely; but his legs were restored, -and he was able to make marvellous use of them for more than twenty -years. After that happy evening, never did his old enemy, the gout, dare -approach him; and the worthy coal miner took care to keep it at a -distance, by reiterating the remedy which had proved so beneficial. -Nobody could blame him. Ale had become so dear to him! Gratitude and -prudence combined to make it a duty to remain unalterably attached, and -he was faithful to it till he breathed his last. - -Antecedent to the use of hops beer was made in England as follows: - -“_To make a Hogshead of Strong Ale._--It was necessary, first of all, to -make the _grout_, which was thus done:--Nine gallons of water was to be -well boiled, and put into a brewing-vessel; when it was a little cool -there was put therein three pecks of malt, which was left standing for -an hour and a-half, and then it ought to be drawn off into a cooler. -When it was near cold, it was put into a vessel provided for that -purpose, perfectly clean, and having a cover to stop it down close. -Being therein, it was closely covered down, that it might there stand to -sharpen; if the weather should be cold it might require about eighteen -hours, but if it was hot not quite so long. When it was ripe enough, -upon the sudden opening of the vessel, the strength of the fume arising -from the liquour would near, if not entirely, extinguish a lighted -candle, which ought to be provided short on purpose, and holden over for -the proof thereof. When the brewer was satisfied that the grout was -properly ripened, he poured it forth into the copper, and boiled it -moderately upon a slow fire for about an hour, constantly stirring it -all the while, and to know when it was boiled enough he provided a small -ashen stick, which, being alighted at the fire, he thrust suddenly into -the boiling liquor, drawing it forth as quick as possible, when, if the -fire on the stick remained still unextinguished, it was well boiled, but -not if it were otherwise. This being done, the liquor was put into a -vessel of twenty gallons, or thereabouts, and yeast put to it, that it -might work, which when it had sufficiently done, it was ready for the -wort to be put to it. The wort might be brewed of what strength the -brewer should please, so that it did not exceed sixty gallons to the -above proportion of grout. The grout being now properly ripe, and having -worked enough, a quantity of the wort, sufficient to fill up the -twenty-gallon vessel into which the grout is put, must be poured upon -it, and then the whole drawn off into the _yeeling fatt_, and there, -being mixed with the remainder of the wort, is left to work together, -which when it hath sufficiently done, it must be strained off into the -hogshead, through a hair sieve made for that purpose, where it must also -work like other beer or ale.”[XXVI-24] - -In the ninth year of Edward II., things being very scarce, a gallon of -ale was sold for twopence, of the better sort for threepence, and of the -best for fourpence; but the Londoners ordained that, in the City, a -gallon of the bettermost sort of ale should be sold for three-halfpence, -and of the small ale for one penny only.[XXVI-25] - -Holinshed says[XXVI-26] that every kind of wine could be procured in -England. “Nevertheless,” he adds, “ale and beere beare the greatest -brunt in drincking, which are of so many sortes and ages as it pleaseth -the brewer to make them. The beere that is used at noblemen’s tables is -commonly of a yeare olde (or, peradventure, of twoo yeares’ tunning, or -more, but this is not general); it is also brued in Marche, and is -therefore called Marche beere; but for the household it is usually not -under a monthe’s age, eache one coveting to have the same stale as he -might, so that was not soure, and the breade new as possible, so that be -not hote.” - -Formerly, they drank beer in some parts of France--in others, wine. -Perhaps it is the same now. This difference of taste gave rise to a -rather jocose dispute between a grey friar and a white friar. One, who -was a Fleming, was for beer; the other, who was from Bordeaux, was for -wine. The Fleming cited passages without number from antiquity in proof -of the excellence of beer, known by the ancients under the name of -_zithum_, or _curmi_. The one from Bordeaux was not so learned, but he -was a native of Bordeaux, and with one word he terminated the dispute. -“Brother,” said he to his adversary, “I maintain that there is as much -difference between wine and beer as there is between St. Francis and St. -Dominick.” The whole community were for the Bordeaux monk, and the -Fleming was reduced to silence.[XXVI-27] - -_Braket_ was formerly the cherished drink of the lower classes in -England. Arnold describes the preparation of it, in his “Chronicles of -London:” - -“Take a pot of good ale and put thereto a porcyon of honey and pepper, -in this manner:--When thou hast good ale, lete it stonde (stand) in a -pott two dayes, and then drawe out a quart, or a pottell, of that ale, -and putt to the honey, and set it over the fyre and let it sethe well, -and take it of the fyre and scume it clene; and then sat it over the -fyre and scume it agayne, and then let it keele a whyle, and put thereto -the pepper, and then set hym on the fyre and let him boyle well togyder, -with esy fyre, but clere. Take four gallons of good ale, a pynte of fyn -tryed hony, and about a saucerful of powder of peper.” - -Beer was hot unknown in Italy, but the Romans never granted it their -serious attention.[XXVI-28] We will give a brief sketch of those -beverages which, among them and the Greeks, replaced wine with greater -or less advantage. - -Convalescents, sober persons who resisted the sweet seductions of -Falernian and Chios wines, drank a kind of barley-water _ptisana_, a -sorry liquid, of which the following is the recipe for the use of the -abstemious of the present day. They placed barley in water, and left it -there until it swelled; it was then dried in the sun, then beaten to -deprive it of its husk, and ground. Then, when it had been boiled in -water for a long time, it was again exposed to the sun. When they wished -to drink barley-water, a small quantity of this flour was boiled, the -water was strained off, and a few drops of vinegar were added.[XXVI-29] -The disciples of Comus have always shuddered at this beverage, when only -mentioned. - -The _oxycratus_ was not much better. It was a mixture of water and -vinegar, with which the lower orders contented themselves when they -could obtain nothing more exhilarating to drink;[XXVI-30] and with which -the soldiers, especially in the camp, were compelled to quench their -thirst.[XXVI-31] - -Some passages from Pliny, and also from other authors, prove that the -ancients were acquainted with cider.[XXVI-32] It is, however, asserted -that the use of this beverage goes no farther back than three or four -centuries, either in England or France;[XXVI-33] but this cannot be a -fact with regard to the last-named country, since the capitulars of -Charlemagne place among the number of ordinary trades that of -_sicerator_, or “cider maker.” This “wine of apples,”[XXVI-34] it is -said, was very common among the Hebrews. That is possible, but it would, -nevertheless, be difficult to prove it from the holy writings, since the -word _schecar_, which has been translated by _sicera_, and which, again, -has been rendered into cider, signifies all kinds of intoxicating -beverage, whether made from grain, honey, or fruit.[XXVI-35] - -Gaul, covered with forests, and swarming with bees, possessed an immense -quantity of wild honey, of which, by the aid of fermentation in water, -the inhabitants composed a strong and intoxicating drink, called -_hydromel_. This beverage, highly esteemed both in Rome and Greece, was -prepared in the following manner: rain water was kept some time, and -then boiled until reduced to one-third, to which honey was added.[P] -This mixture was exposed to the sun for the space of forty days; it was -then placed in a vessel, and by these means they obtained, in time, a -vinous hydromel very similar to our Madeira wine.[XXVI-36] To make -_oxymel_, still more heady, ten pounds of honey were mixed with two -pints and a half of old vinegar, and one pound of sea-salt; the whole -boiled only an instant in five pints of water. This liquor was left to -get very old.[XXVI-37] - -Juice of quinces and honey, boiled in water, produced _hydromelon_, a -delicious drink, which our century might envy the delicate drinkers of -Athens and Rome,[XXVI-38] especially when roses had been added to this -nectar, which changed it into _hydrorosatum_.[XXVI-39] - -The _apomeli_ was nothing more than water in which honeycomb had been -boiled.[XXVI-40] _Omphacomeli_, an ingenious mixture of honey and -verjuice, quenched thirst during the summer, and produced that agreeable -gaiety which is to drunkenness what doziness is to sleep.[XXVI-41] - -A mixture of honey and juice of myrtle seed, of course diluted with -water, composed _myrtites_, the aromatic flavour of which flattered the -palate, and rendered the breath more sweet.[XXVI-42] Sometimes -pomegranates were substituted for the myrtle, and it was then called -_rhoites_, and possessed an agreeable and pungent flavour.[XXVI-43] - -Wine made of dates enjoyed a general esteem in the east. The Romans, who -knew also how to appreciate it, prepared it by throwing into water some -common, though very ripe, dates; and when they had well soaked, they -were put under a press.[XXVI-44] The same means were employed to procure -fig wine; but often the sediment of grapes was used instead of water, to -prevent its being too sweet.[XXVI-45] - -“Artificial wines” were also procured by the aid of several other kinds -of fruits, such as sorbs, medlars, and mulberries.[XXVI-46] Fermentation -dispelled the sweet and insipid flavour which generally distinguishes -these fruits; and, at the commencement of a repast, the guests swallowed -with delight large cups of these beverages.[XXVI-47] - -It was also the custom to serve very cold water, in which certain plants -had been infused, and which was freshened by being surrounded with snow -after it had been boiled for some time. The invention of this iced water -is attributed to the Emperor Nero, who made great use of it; and who -appears to have bitterly regretted it when, dethroned and flying from -his assassins, he was constrained through excessive thirst to drink -muddy water from a ditch. The unfortunate Cæsar then, for the first -time, thought of the strange vicissitudes of fortune, and casting a -sorrowful glance at the disgusting fluid he held in his hand, “Alas!” he -exclaimed, with a sigh, “is this the iced water that Nero -drank?”[XXVI-48] - - -TEA. - -This plant is a native of China, and it is only in the Celestial Empire -that tea is cultivated to any great extent. Why, then, is it neglected -on all other points of the globe situated in the same latitude? -Doubtless, because the soil of China is superior for its culture to that -of any other country. - -The shrub that produces tea is cultivated between the twenty-third and -thirty-third degrees of latitude; it thrives on the mountainous parts, -on the slope of the hills, and that which grows on high ground is far -superior to that gathered in the valleys. It is the same with this plant -as with the vine in France and in Europe; it grows on flat land, and -succeeds wonderfully on plains exposed to the sun’s rays. - -The Chinese export teas of the first quality in much greater proportion -than those of an inferior kind. In England there is a larger consumption -than in any other country in the world. - -In China, the tea that forms the habitual beverage of the people is a -very inferior species of the _Boo_ tea. - -The provinces of Kiang-Nang, Kiang-Si, and Che-Kiang, furnish green tea -to Russia, the United States, Calcutta, and various European countries; -the province of Fo-Kien furnishes black tea to England, with the -exception of a third of the _boo_ tea, or _bohee_, which is exported -from a district called Wo-Ping, lying to the north-west of the province -of Canton. - -It is in Fo-Kien that the cultivation of this precious shrub is held in -the highest estimation. In this province it is deprived of a large -number of its buds at the beginning of the spring. Of these are made the -tea _Pé-ko_, the most renowned of all kinds. Congo tea serves to perfume -part of these buds, and to impart to them a more agreeable flavour. - -A first gathering of full-grown leaves takes place at the commencement -of May, a second towards the middle of June, and a third and last at the -end of the summer. This produces a tea inferior to the preceding kinds -in point of quality and perfume. - -The inhabitants of Fo-Kien cultivate tea in inclosures; and at the time -of harvest sell the leaves to a class of persons who undertake their -preparation, which consists in drying the leaves in houses, first by the -simple contact with the air, afterwards in heated warehouses. When the -preparation is terminated, the merchants come and make choice of the -best qualities; then the desiccation of the tea is finished, and it is -forwarded in packets, each bearing its proper designation. - -As soon as the leaves have been gathered and selected, they are plunged -in boiling water, where they remain about thirty seconds; they are then -quickly withdrawn, strained, and thrown on iron plates, large and flat, -placed above a furnace: the workmen’s hands can hardly endure the heat -of these plates. They continually stir the leaves till they are -sufficiently heated, after which they take them off, and spread them on -large tables covered with mats. Other workmen then busy themselves with -rolling them with the palm of the hand, while others cool them as -quickly as possible by agitating the air with large fans. This operation -must be continued until the leaves have completely cooled under the hand -of the person who rolls them, for it is by being quickly cooled that the -leaves remain longer curled. Thanks to the operation of rolling them, -which is repeated two or three times, the leaves are deprived of their -humidity, and the unwholesome bitter juice they contain. For teas of the -first quality, each leaf must be rolled separately; but for more common -kinds, several may be rolled at once. Tea, thus prepared, is dried, and -put into boxes or cases free from moisture. The Chinese then aromatise -it with various odoriferous plants, such as the flowers of the _olea -fragrans_, and those of the _camellia sesangua_, shrubs of the same -family as tea; or those of the scented tea-roses and orange-flowers. - -This tea is destined for mandarins of the higher class, for the _Calaos_ -or ministers, and even for the celestial sovereign of the _Centre of the -Earth_--or, in more simple words, the Emperor. - -There are, in reality, but two kinds of tea, black tea and green tea; -each kind is again subdivided into many varieties. The best black tea is -the scented _Liang-sing_, worth in China about 10_s._ the pound. - -The first of all green teas, destined for the great, and bearing an -exquisite perfume, is that called _Koo-lang-fyn-i_. M. de Rienzi assures -us that he has seen it sold in Canton for 32s. a pound. - -New tea is considered by the Chinese as a powerful narcotic, therefore -it is never sold until a year after the gathering. - -The Europeans and Americans, who trade with tea in Canton, have recourse -for their transactions with the Chinese to native tasters, or others, -who know how to distinguish the different qualities at the sight of the -colour produced by the infusion. - -It is generally believed in Europe that tea exported thence has already -served as a beverage to the Chinese. It is a mistake, propagated by -persons who, having seen the tea put in water, have doubtless not well -understood the reason of this operation. We must, however, admit that -the merchants sometimes mix tea already used with tea of good quality; a -fraud only to be discovered by the weakness of the infusion. - -Tea seems likely to spread over the world. Our books, wines, brandy, -cutlery, and jewellery, go round the globe, and are sought after by the -civilized nations as well as the wild tribes. On the other hand, we -receive our food, together with spices, from Malaisia; we sweeten them -with sugar from the Antilles or Siam; we enjoy the flavour and perfume -of coffee from Arabia and the Island of Bourbon; we intoxicate ourselves -with tobacco from Manilla, Virginia, of Havannah, and Latakia; and we -imbibe with luxurious pleasure the tea of those Chinese we are -continually laughing at, but of whom we have borrowed so many useful -things. We must, however, acknowledge that France is the country the -least advanced in this respect, and the use of this beneficent drink is -far from being as common as it ought to be. We do not fear to say that -when once acquainted with the method of preparing it better than is -generally done, this inferiority in the consumption will disappear. Some -witty delineator of manners and customs has pourtrayed upon the joyous -scene of a comic theatre of Paris, that famous tea party of _Mother -Gibou_ and _Madame Pochet_, one of those ridiculous Parisian and really -home-scenes, much more common than is generally supposed, and although -the picture is over-charged, it is nevertheless true. - -It is not necessary here to give our private recipe to prepare an -infusion in which that excellent lady, _Madame Pochet_, thought herself -so perfect; suffice to say, that to make it agreeable to her guests she -added salt, pepper, some cinnamon, the yolk of an egg, and a tiny drop -of vinegar. We would beg the reader not to fail in attending these -charming and daily meetings, at which each housewife presides, and we -would say to strangers, let us seriously study an English tea. - -“The use of tea in China dates from the greatest antiquity. The Japanese -attribute to it a miraculous origin. They say that Darma, a very pious -prince, and son of an Indian king, landed in China in the year 510 of -the Christian era, and wishing to edify mankind by his example, imposed -upon himself privations of all kinds. It happened, however, that after -several years of great fatigue, in spite of his care he fell asleep; and -believing he had violated his oath, and in order to fulfil it faithfully -for the future, he cut off his eyelids and threw them on the ground. The -next day, returning towards the same spot, he found them changed into a -little shrub, hitherto unknown to the earth. He eat some of the leaves, -which made him merry and restored his former strength. Having -recommended the same food to his disciples, the reputation of tea soon -spread, and has continued in use since that time.”--DESFONTAINES. See, -also, KŒMPFER, in his “_Aménités Exotiques_.” - -We are ignorant of the period and motives which persuaded the Chinese to -use tea in infusion. Perhaps it was to render water more agreeable, -which is said to be brackish and of a bad taste in many parts of China. -In 1641, Tulpius, a Dutch physician, was the first to mention this -plant, in a dissertation he published. In 1657, Joncquet, a French -physician, called it the divine plant, and compared it to ambrosia. In -1679, Cornelius Bentekoe, a Dutch physician, published a treatise, in -which he declared himself a partisan of tea, and asserted that this -beverage in no way could injure the stomach, even if drank to the extent -of _two hundred cups_ a day. Many of his countrymen went even beyond -this: they made of it a universal panacea. - -As at first the leaves of the tea plant were rare and but little known, -many persons thought they had discovered in Europe what others fetched -from such a distance. Thus Simon Pauli introduced the royal pimento -(_myria gale_ of LINN.), as the real tea of China. Others thought to -have found the marvellous virtues of tea in plants growing in our own -country, such as marjoram, veronica, myrtle, sage, agrimony, &c.; but it -happily ended in granting the preference to the real tea of China and -Japan. - - -COFFEE. - -In the trade five principal kinds of coffee are enumerated--or rather, -five sorts--according to the different countries from whence they come, -although all derived from the same kind of coffee tree, _Coffea -Arabica_. These five kinds are as follows:-- - -1st. Mocha coffee, thus called from the country whence this kind of -coffee originates, a plant now so commonly spread over every American -colony. The grain of this coffee is generally round and small. From -Mocha coffee is derived the most sweet and agreeable beverage; it is -also the most esteemed, the dearest, and holds the first rank in the -trade. - -2nd. The Bourbon coffee, cultivated in the Island of Bourbon; for some -time it occupied the second place in quality, but the _gourmets_ prefer -to it coffee from Martinique or Guadaloupe. - -3rd. There are several kinds of Martinique or Guadaloupe, distinguished -by the various preparations. - -4th. The Cayenne coffee. This kind is less known on account of the small -quantity cultivated there, and introduced in trade. This kind is -superior to the Martinique coffee. - -5th. The St. Domingo coffee, in which is comprised that from Porto Rico, -and other leeward islands, is considered inferior to the four other -kinds. - -Let us mention a few of the methods by which coffee in infusion is -obtained. - -It is not exactly known who introduced the custom of taking coffee. Some -attribute its use to the prior of a convent, who becoming acquainted -with the properties of this plant by the effect it produced on the goats -which fed upon it, tried its influence on his monks, in order to keep -them awake during the performance of divine service. According to -others, the discovery is due to a mufti, who, wishing to surpass in -devotion the most religious dervishes, made use of coffee so as to -banish sleep, and thus be enabled to pray longer without interruption. -Whatever may be the origin of the use of coffee, it has become so -general up to the present day that it may almost be classed among the -articles of the greatest necessity. This extensive use has stimulated -the industry of inventors to seek means of rendering it most pleasant to -drink, as also its great consumption and high price have awaked both -economy and fraud, in order to find a substitute for this agreeable -beverage. - -It would be useless here to describe the different methods of making -coffee; it will be sufficient to mention that all those which tend to -prepare it without boiling the water in which the pulverised coffee is -placed, are almost equally good. - -In order to supplant coffee, which in Europe was found very expensive, -many different means have been tried. About fifty years since the Swiss -porter of a nobleman in Paris thought of roasting acorns, which he mixed -with roast coffee, ground; he sold it cheaper than any one; all bought -it, and the Swiss made his fortune. - -The trick, however, being discovered, all sought means of gratifying -their taste without emptying their purses; barley and rye began to be -mixed with coffee. - -In the mountains of Virginia, in America, the inhabitants make a coffee -simply of roasted rye; they by these means obtain a beverage in no way -resembling coffee, but it goes by that name, and at least the -imagination is satisfied. - -In Belgium, in the province of Liege, coffee is mixed with wild chicory -root. This method, generally known, is at the present time practised -throughout the whole of Europe; and wild chicory root then opened for -Liege a new branch of commerce. Lastly, in Flanders some of the -inhabitants cultivate the lupin, which they complacently call coffee, -and whose seed, roasted, they drink instead of real coffee. - -“The infusion of coffee is thought to be beneficial to stout and -phlegmatic persons, and for pains in the head; but it appears that its -admixture with cream or milk prevents these good effects, on account of -the relaxation it thus causes to the stomach. On the contrary, it gives -strength when taken pure. It is doubtless for this reason that the -inhabitants of the colonies take it three and four times a day--that is, -at four o’clock in the morning, a very strong infusion, sometimes -without sugar; at breakfast, with milk; after dinner, pure; and often in -the afternoon, for the fourth time.”--BEAUVAIS. - -We are unacquainted with the period of the introduction of coffee into -Europe. Rauwolf is the first who speaks of coffee, in 1588. Prospero -Alpini then came, and described the coffee tree in Egypt by the name of -_bon_, _bun_, or _boun_: his work appeared in 1591. In 1614, Bacon -mentioned this oriental beverage, and Meissner published a treatise on -it in 1621. - -It was not, however, until towards the year 1645, that it began to be -drunk in Italy. The first _cafés_ were opened in London in 1652, and in -Paris in 1669, a time at which a pound of coffee was worth forty crowns. -It was principally Soliman Aga, the ambassador from Turkey, who caused -coffee to become fashionable in Paris. - -It penetrated into Sweden in the year 1674, where it was thought of use -in scorbutic diseases. The first person who made trial of coffee with -milk was Nieuhoff, the Dutch ambassador in China, in imitation of tea -with milk. - -“The physical effects of coffee are well known: it accelerates the -circulation of the blood, but sometimes causes palpitation of the heart -and giddiness; it has even been thought to occasion apoplexy and -paralysis. Nevertheless, celebrated writers--such as Fontenelle and -Voltaire--made constant use of it, almost to an abuse. They were told, -_it is a slow poison_; it was indeed slow for these learned men, who -died, the one at a hundred, the other eighty-four years of age. However, -at the present time coffee is a beverage whose power over our -intellectual or moral habits has, perhaps, never been calculated as it -deserves, since it has become general, and almost suppressed the -drunkenness which disgraced our ancestors at the end of their grand -repasts.”--VIREY. - -The subject we have just slightly touched upon recalls to our -recollection a whim of the charming Sévigné: “_Le café et Racine -passeront_,” said this amiable lady, nearly two hundred years ago. The -beautiful marchioness was mistaken: both coffee and Racine have -remained, and do not appear likely soon to bid us adieu. - - -CHOCOLATE. - -Every one is aware that chocolate is an aliment obtained from the -cocoa-nut, roasted and reduced to paste, with sugar and aromatics. - -But first, the choice of cocoa nuts is not indifferent. - -Those from Soconusco, from Caracas, and Maracaibo, are the best and -sweetest; it is, however, well to mix with them other kinds, to correct -their insipidity by a certain sharpness far from being unpleasant; thus, -to four parts of Caracas cocoa, earthed--that is, rendered mild by a -sojourn of some weeks under the moist earth--a part of cocoa from the -Antilles, or Maragnon and Para, is added; this kind contains more of -sharp and bitter matter. These cocoas are slightly torrefied in an iron -pan. The Spaniards burn their cocoa much less than the Italians. Being -left to grow cold, this cocoa is slightly crushed, to separate the -envelopes or shells, which are thrown away. However, in England, -Switzerland, and Germany, these shells serve to make, with boiling -water, a warm infusion, mixed with milk and drank in lieu of real -chocolate. The envelopes of torrefied coffee are employed in a similar -manner in the east for the “Sultana coffee.” The mixtures of torrefied -cocoa are reduced into a fat paste of a brown colour, either between -stones, or by means of an iron roller upon a porphyry rock, warmed -underneath by live coals; this paste, regularly ground, is at last -incorporated with sugar, equal to its weight, then it is mixed together -as perfectly as possible. In this _chocolat de santé_ a small quantity -of very fine cinnamon powder is admitted, which makes it more palatable, -and neutralizes the action of the fat and heavy substance, or vegetable -butter, contained in the cocoa. - -“The term chocolate belongs, it is said, to the language of the -Mexicans, and is derived from the two words _choco_, sound or noise, and -_atle_, water, because it is beaten in boiling water to make it froth, -according to the custom of this people. Before their conquest by the -Spaniards, it formed the principal aliment of the Mexicans. They held -the cocoa tree in such estimation, that its kernel served as current -coin, and this custom even now remains.”--HUMBOLDT. - -The Mexican chocolate, besides the pimento, contained the _chile_, or -Indian wheat-flour, with honey, or sweet juice of the agava. To this was -added annotto, an astringent tinctorial juice, of a rosy hue, obtained -from the seeds of the _Bixa Orleana_. The chieftains, or lords and -warriors only, enjoyed the right of feeding on chocolate, as the most -restoring aliment, and the most capable, in their opinion, of repairing -worn-out strength and producing vigour. The addition of the perfume of -vanilla, again, augments this quality, according to the testimony of -physicians and travellers. Dias of Castilho relates that Montezuma drank -vanilla chocolate, and the Maréchal de Bellisle says, in his -“_Testament Politique_,” that the regent, Louis Philippe d’Orléans -regaled himself every morning with chocolate at his _petit lever_. - -The ladies of Chiapa, in Mexico, are so fond of these perfumed -chocolates that they even have them carried to eat in church. The -Spanish Creole nuns have also brought to great perfection the art of -preparing fine chocolate, perfumed with amber. - -The use of chocolate was soon brought from Mexico, after its conquest by -Fernando Cortes, into Spain, and this food has there become quite -habitual. First, it easily deceives hunger by reason of its oily -qualities and slow digestion; then it is softening and cooling, which -renders it particularly desirable in warm climates, especially such as -the Iberian peninsula. Thus the Spaniards but slightly roast their -cocoa-nuts; they prefer preserving but a very slight bitterness, and -mixing with it more aromatics. Besides, chocolate, so useful to dry and -nervous temperaments, is an agreeable analeptic, recommended against -hypochondria and melancholy, two affections so common to the Spaniards. -The beggars, even, could not live without it, and they accost each other -in the morning with inquiring if their lordships have taken their -chocolate. - -This aliment is favourable to idleness, augments the calm of the body -and mind, and plunges one in a sweet quietude of _far niente_ at a small -expense. - -From Spain the fashion of taking chocolate was introduced into Italy, -especially by the Florentine, Antonio Carletti. The Italians extract -from cocoa more exalted qualities by torrefication: they burn it till it -becomes bitter. The grave question arose among them, whether chocolate -taken in the morning by the monks broke the fast principally in Lent. -The Cardinal Brancaccio, and other learned casuists, battled long in -order to prove that chocolate, being evidently a beverage made of water, -could not be in the least considered as an aliment, nor break the fast. -We see, indeed, in the correspondence of the Princess des Ursins--all -powerful at the court of Philip V. of Spain--and Madame de Maintenon, -that the consciences of pious persons had been placed in full -tranquillity by this decision, and that any one might fast during the -whole Lent as perfectly by drinking chocolate as if he had only partaken -of a glass of cold water. - -“Chocolate became pretty common in France from the time of Anne of -Austria, mother of Louis XIV.; however, it does not appear to have ever -excited the same enthusiasm as coffee; it is not favourable to good -cheer, nor is it exhilarating. To this may be traced, perhaps, the -indifference of the English for this beverage.”--VIREY. - -In trade, as we have said, are distinguished a great variety of cocoas, -and they are called by the name of the country whence they come. Thus we -have the Caracas cocoa, the Surinam cocoa, &c. That which comes from the -French possessions is called also “cocoa of the isles.” The Caracas is -the most esteemed of all: it is more oily than the other kinds, and has -no sharpness of flavour. It is known by being larger, rough, of an -ovoid, oblong shape, not flattened, covered with a greyish dust, and by -the kernel being easily divided into several irregular fragments. “The -name of _cacao_, of which in French has been made the word _cacaoyer_, -is that given by the inhabitants of Guiana to this grain. As to the -scientific name, _theobroma_, Linnæus formed it from two Greek words, -signifying ‘food of the gods.’ ”--DEMEZIL. - - - - -XXVII. - -DRINKING CUPS. - - -If men were wiser, the 19th century would probably not have seen a -beneficent apostle preaching temperance everywhere, and making his name -cherished and celebrated by a series of successes which could hardly -have been expected; numerous societies of _Hydropotes_, or -“teetotallers,” would not alarm, in our days, those joyful disciples of -Bacchus’s temple, hydrophobes by profession, by taste, and interest, who -sincerely bewail the desertion of newly made abstemious members; and no -person would promise, by a solemn and formidable pledge, to forego the -drinking of anything but water! The abuse must have been very great, -since it was necessary to have recourse to such a remedy. - -It is true that the evil had taken deep root, and that the most ancient -people, the gods, and the heroes, have left us examples of this -dangerous seduction. The Scythians, the Celts, Iberians, and -Thracians,[XXVII-1] were confirmed drunkards. The wise Nestor himself, -who was so good a match for Agamemnon, often felt some difficulty in -finding his tent.[XXVII-2] Alexander the Great slept sometimes two days -and two nights, after having paid too much devotion to the god of good -cheer;[XXVII-3] and Philip, his father, very frequently left the table -with a very heavy head and staggering legs.[XXVII-4] - -It is reported that Dionysius the Younger, tyrant of Sicily, lost his -sight through drinking too much, which will not be wondered at, if - - DESCRIPTION OF PLATE No. XVIII. - - No. 1. Drinking-cup, of terra cotta, in the form of a pig’s head, - found at Herculaneum.--HAMILTON, I., IIe. - - No. 2. Also that of a dog’s head.--CAYLUS, I., Plan 35. - -[Illustration: _Pl. 18._] - -[Illustration: _Pl. 18A_] - -what is supposed, be true, that this miserable man was drunk every day, -without fail, for three months together![XXVII-5] Shall we mention -Tiberius--surnamed by the army, _Biberius_ (Tippler)--who, after he -became Emperor, passed the days and nights drinking with Flaccus and -Piso, at the very time they were working at the reformation of the -Romans?[XXVII-6] - -This pagan Solomon, having to choose from among several very -distinguished candidates who offered themselves for the quæstorship, -preferred the least known, because he had drunk a whole pitcher of wine, -which the prince himself had condescended to fill.[XXVII-7] - -Intoxication, with the Greeks, was noted as belonging to low company, if -we are to judge by certain personages whom Æschylus and Sophocles did -not fear to bring on the stage, and who struck each other with vases--a -thing which the modern theatre has judiciously banished.[XXVII-8] Homer -is more reserved; for Achilles, after copious libations, only threw a -neat’s foot at Ulysses’ head,[XXVII-9] which probably was not of much -consequence. - -The fact is, that the ancients did not at all profess the same -principles that we do respecting intemperance. Hippocrates himself, -advised men to seek mirth now and then in wine;[XXVII-10] Seneca -recommends us to drown cares and fatigue in it;[XXVII-11] and Musæus -decorates with crowns of flowers the foreheads of the sages who, sitting -by the side of Plato at all new banquets, should find in continual -drunkenness the sweetest reward for their virtues.[XXVII-12] A singular -bliss, which only reason in delirium could have imagined. - -We have spoken of the delicious beverage which was so costly a seduction -to choice epicureans, who took merit to themselves for not resisting it; -for this reason, it was necessary to invent vessels worthy of containing -it; and art, encouraged by luxury, produced those magnificent vases of -which ostentatious antiquity has only left us a faint idea. - -The cups of the Homeric times were all of equal capacity; one of them -was offered to each guest, but several were offered to persons of high -distinction.[XXVII-13] - -The Greeks thought much of their cups; for them they were sacred relics -from father to son, and were only used on certain solemnities. Thus -Œdipus delivers the most frightful imprecation against his son -Polynices, who had presented, at a common repast, the cup of his -ancestors.[XXVII-14] That of Nestor was so large that a young man could -hardly carry it; as to him, he lifted it up without the slightest -difficulty.[XXVII-15] - -The Athenians drank from cups in the shape of horns.[XXVII-16] Wax vases -were sufficient for the Spaniards.[XXVII-17] The Gaul who had thrown -down an Urus (wild ox) took its horns, decorated them with silver and -gold rings, and made his guests drink out of them.[XXVII-18] Often the -skull of an enemy, killed in single combat, was transformed into a cup -of honour, and reminded a Gallic family of the memorable action of a -valiant ancestor.[XXVII-19] - -The first cups of the Romans were made of horns, or of the earthenware -of Samos.[XXVII-20] Those conquerors of the world had not yet enervated -their manly courage with the luxurious spoils of conquered nations. -Afterwards, some very simple ones were made of beech-wood[XXVII-21] or -elder;[XXVII-22] these possessed a marvellous property which they ought -to have always preserved--the wine only escaped from them, and they -retained the water which had been mixed with it.[XXVII-23] - -But Rome, already tired of its austere simplicity, and its disdain for -the Greek cups of glass and crystal, soon began to desire something -finer. Those magnificent chalices, master-pieces of patience and skill, -in which gold and silver were amalgamated with a more brittle -material,[XXVII-24] were soon in much request, and appeared worthy of -their renown. - -But it is to be observed, that the crystal of which the most precious -cups were made, had not the slightest similarity to that which we make -use of now, and which the least shock will break; it was flexible and -malleable;[XXVII-25] it might be thrown on the pavement with impunity, -and remained unhurt.[XXVII-26] - -Here is, on this subject, a curious anecdote, which has been left to us -by Petronius:-- - -A certain skilful workman used to make crystal vases as strong as vases -of gold and silver. He produced an incomparable masterpiece; it was a -chalice of astonishing beauty, which he thought worthy of Cæsar only, -and which he felt a pride in offering to him. Tiberius highly praised -the skill and the rich present of the artist. This man, wishing to -increase still more the admiration of the prince, and secure his favours -to a greater degree, begged of him to give back the vase. He then threw -it with all his might on the marble pavement of the - - DESCRIPTION OF PLATE No. XIX. - - Nos. 1. and 2. Drinking horns; these give us an idea how the - ancient Greeks and Romans made use of the horns: taken from two - paintings at Herculaneum. - - No. 3. A horn, with a chimerical head, in Grecian terra - cotta.--“_Herculan. Bronsi_,” II., 2, 3. - -[Illustration: _Pl. 19._] - -[Illustration: _Pl. 20_] - -apartment: the hardest metal could never have resisted this terrible -shock. Cæsar appeared moved, and was silent. The artist, with a -triumphant smile, picked up the vase, which had only a slight dent, and -which, by striking it with the hammer, was soon brought to its original -state. This being done, no doubt remained on his mind that he had -conquered the good graces of the Emperor, and the esteem of an -astonished court. Tiberius asked him if he was the only one who knew how -to work crystal in so remarkable a manner? The workman immediately -answered that no one possessed his secret. “Very well,” said Cæsar, “let -his head be struck off without loss of time; for if this strange -invention were known, gold and silver would very soon have not the least -value.”[XXVII-27] Thus did the Emperor Tiberius encourage artists and -the arts. - -There were, besides, cups made of the most pure crystal, “the -brittleness of which seems to have added to their price,”[XXVII-28] and -which were paid for dearer than gold and precious stones;[XXVII-29] but -much less, however, than those famous Murrhine vases, which have so long -exercised the useless sagacity of ancient commentators. - -Among the rich spoils that Pompey, conqueror of Mithridates and master -of a part of Asia, ostentatiously displayed in his triumph,[XXVII-30] -the Romans, for the first time, admired vases and cups, the material and -workmanship of which surpassed all that the imagination could fancy the -most graceful and delicate.[XXVII-31] They were much in request; the -price was exorbitant, and thenceforth they were indispensable. One of -the ancient consuls thought himself too happy to give only a little more -than £6,000 for one of those Murrhines. Such was the name given to this -brittle and rare novelty. Petronius paid for a large basin £28,800; - - DESCRIPTION OF PLATE No. XX. - - This vase, made of one single piece of crystal, is in its original - size; the delicacy of the work gives a great value to it. The body - of the vase, and all other parts in relief, are of glass. It was - discovered in 1725, and is preserved in the cabinet of the Marquis - of Trivulsi, at Milan. The fillet round the body, and those forming - the ordinary motto of the feasts--“BIBE VIVAS MULTIS ANNIS”--are - isolated from the body of the cup about one quarter of an inch, and - are attached to it by threads or fillets of glass, very fine. They - are not soldered to the cup, but the whole of the labour is worked - on a turning lathe, being seen more or less angular as the - instrument may have been led to penetrate in the most difficult - parts. The inscription is green; the fillet is blue: these two - colours are very bright. The cup is an opaque or changing colour, - without being able to distinguish whether that hue was intended to - be so, as it happens to glass which has remained a long while - buried, exposed to the vapours of a dunghill, or a sewer, &c., &c. - A second antique vase is known to exist, whose workmanship is - similar.--“_Histoire de l’Art_,” Liv. I., Chap. I., page - 45.--Paris: Janson. - -and Nero spent the like sum for a vase with two handles, which he forgot -two days afterwards.[XXVII-32] - -The Murrhine cups appeared on the table with the wine of the “hundred -leaves,” and the Falernian was poured into them, so as to preserve all -the generous delicacy of its odour.[XXVII-33] - -The Murrhines were much sought after, on account of their form and -brilliant transparency: they were made of mother of pearl, according to -Belon, but others say of agate. Their dimensions, however, would incline -one to doubt it. Scaliger,[XXVII-34] Cardan,[XXVII-35] and Madame -Dacier,[XXVII-36] thought that the ancients gave unheard-of prices for -simple porcelain vases, which were precious on account of their rarity. -This opinion, which several modern _literati_[XXVII-37] have adopted, -rests plausibly enough, it appears, on one verse of Propertius, in which -this poet speaks of “Murrhine cups, baked in the furnace of the -Parthians.”[XXVII-38] It has been said that, perhaps the Parthians -learnt from the Chinese how to make porcelain; but this supposition, -entirely void of proof, has been contradicted in a most peremptory -manner by the author of a very curious book, who demonstrates -irrefragably that the Murrhines were not of porcelain, but of stones of -the species of onyx.[XXVII-39] The following fact will leave but very -little doubt on that subject:-- - -In 1791, the Constituent National Assembly, appointed a commission to -make an inventory and valuation of all objects in the Garde-Meuble of -the crown. They found, among other very beautiful sardonyx, two very -antique vases: one made in the form of an ewer, ten inches in height and -four inches in diameter, having its handle cut out of the same piece, -and the second, hollowed out as a bowl, ten inches in diameter, which -were recognised as real Murrhines--beautiful white and blue veins and -other shades, circulated about the bowl without interfering with its -semi-transparency; the bottom was of the same colour as the ewer. The -jewellers estimated these vases at £6,000 each, although there was -nothing engraved in the hollow nor in relief, but merely on -consideration of the beauty of the material, the fineness of the polish, -and the difficulty that must have attended the hollowing out of the -ewer.[XXVII-40] - -These valuations would appear exaggerated, if it were not known that the -antique vase of the Duke of Brunswick, which formerly belonged to the -Dukes of Mantua, in 1631, and made of sardonyx, in the cruet shape, was -valued at 150,000 German crowns--or dollars of 4_s._ 3_d._ The relief - -[Illustration: _Pl. 21_ - -MURRHIN CUP.] - -engraving represented the mysteries of Ceres and Bacchus; but it had no -primitive handle, and the diameter was only two inches and -a-half.[XXVII-41] - -By the side of these inestimable Murrhines were standing very graceful -chalices of amber, the prodigious workmanship of which absolutely gave -to them a most arbitrary value,[XXVII-42] but which Roman prodigality -never found too high. - -Silver cups engraved were also nearly as much esteemed, when they came -from the hands of some well-known workman--such as Myos, Mentor, or -Myron.[XXVII-43] They were even preferred to gold cups,[XXVII-44] unless -these latter were enriched with precious stones.[XXVII-45] - -All these vases presented still greater varieties in their forms than in -the materials employed. There were very large ones, some narrow, some -oblong; many ornamented with two handles, others had only one.[XXVII-46] -Some were much like a tympanon--or zoph, a musical instrument of the -ancient Hebrews--a small boat or ewer.[XXVII-47] In one word, the Greek -or Roman artist never listened to anything but his own fancy, and was -then far from supposing that he was preparing very long and wakeful -hours of study to many antiquarians, zealous to explain seriously the -strange wanderings of a fantastical imagination. - - DESCRIPTION OF PLATE No. XXI. - - MURRHINE VASE.--This vase is the most precious of all those which - have come down to us. It is drawn here half the original size, and - belongs to Prince de Biscari, in Sicily, which has been described - by him in the dissertation entitled, “_De Vasi Murrini - Ragionamenti_.” Three pieces of opal in the first place form the - cup; the second, the stem; and the last, the base of the foot. If - this vase is an antique, as it is said by the Prince de Biscari; if - true that several pieces of opal have often been found as large and - as fine (which appears doubtful, in the actual state of mineralogic - knowledge), the question upon the Murrhine vases would be decided. - They would have been of opal, and not porcelain; neither of - sardonyx--_Pierre de lard_--as many have believed, nor of - _cacholong_ (a species of chalcedony, opaque, and of a yellowish - white), as I have described it. - - - - -XXVIII. - -WINE. - - -Bacchus, son of Ammon, was born in Egypt, and was the first who taught -his countrymen the art of cultivating the vine, and of making wine. He -is the same as Osiris, the famous conqueror of India.[XXVIII-1] Should -this assertion be contradicted, we shall only entreat any and every -disputant to make his own choice of the god of vineyards, from among the -five heroes bearing the name of Bacchus, as we are too impartial to -prefer any one in particular.[XXVIII-2] - -Œnopion, worthy son of one of these heroes, enriched the inhabitants -of Chios with the first rosy wine that ever yet obscured their -reason.[XXVIII-3] Greece, Italy, and Sicily owed this wonderful liquor -to the Egyptians. The Gauls received this sweet present from a Tuscan, -who had been banished from Clusium, his country;[XXVIII-4] and the -cultivation of the grape spread rapidly till the reign of the sanguinary -Domitian, who completed the catalogue of his crimes by tearing up the -vines.[XXVIII-5] The Emperor Probus restored them to the disconsolate -Gauls.[XXVIII-6] That prince was certainly worthy of his name! - -Modern science, agreeing with holy writ,[XXVIII-7] looks upon the east -as the common cradle of the vine and the human race. - -Palestine was renowned for its vines. Pliny speaks in praise of -them.[XXVIII-8] The vineyards constituted a part of the riches of the -country, and they were preserved with the greatest care; so much so that -Moses, with an especial view to vines, forbade the sowing of different -seeds in the same field, on pain of confiscation:[XXVIII-9] and it was -done to encourage their cultivation, that that wise legislator exempted -every person who had planted one from military service, and from all -public duties, until the first vintage.[XXVIII-10] - -The growths of Lebanon,[XXVIII-11] of Helbon,[XXVIII-12] and of -Sorec,[XXVIII-13] enjoyed an extraordinary reputation, and the delicious -wine they produced was capable of inspiring the lyric David with that -celebrated praise[XXVIII-14] by which intemperance has often dared to -authorize reprehensible excesses. - -However, the Hebrews, a sober people, like all eastern nations, rarely -made use of pure wine; they generally mixed it with a quantity of water, -and only drank a little at some ceremonial feasts, and at the end of -their repasts.[XXVIII-15] They sometimes mixed with it perfumes and -odoriferous drugs.[XXVIII-16] - -Some nations seem to have had a great horror of wine. The Persians drank -nothing but water;[XXVIII-17] and the inhabitants of Pontus, the -Scythians, and the Cappadocians, partook of this strange -taste.[XXVIII-18] The Arcadians, who lived on chesnuts and acorns, were -not worthy of the favours of Bacchus; neither were the troglodytes, the -ichthyophagists, and other swarms of hydropotes who were as yet too -little civilized to ask of drunkenness its illusions and its -enchantments.[XXVIII-19] - -The Egyptians would have thought it a profanation of their temples to -carry in a flagon of the rosy liquid; but Psammetichus came (670 B.C.), -and that wise prince made them understand that a pot of beer is not -worth a cup of good wine.[XXVIII-20] - -The Romans asserted that their old king, Janus, planted the first vine -in Italy,[XXVIII-21] and that, later, Numa taught them how to trim -it.[XXVIII-22] That noble people knew how to appreciate such blessings, -and in order to demonstrate that wisdom is always to be found in wine, -they never failed to place on their altars the statue of Minerva beside -that of Bacchus.[XXVIII-23] - -The inflexible muse of history has preserved to us the name of the -individual who doomed himself to a sorry sort of immortality by -inventing the custom of mixing water with wine; it was Cranaüs, King of -Athens, 1532 B.C.[XXVIII-24] The gods, doubtless to punish him, caused a -great part of Greece to be inundated, and it was not long before he was -dethroned.[XXVIII-25] Pliny accuses the obscure Staphil, sou of -Sithen,[XXVIII-26] of this depravation of taste, which gained upon -imitators to such an extent that, in the time of Diodorus of Sicily (45 -B.C.), the guests still mixed water with their wine at the end of the -repast.[XXVIII-27] It is true that they were then all intoxicated. - -Lycurgus was, no doubt, ignorant of this practice, when he had the -barbarity to destroy the vines of the Lacedæmonians, under pretext of -putting an end to the disorders caused by intemperance. It would have -been preferable, says Plutarch, to have united the nymphs with -Bacchus.[XXVIII-28] The ingenious philosopher insists on the mixture -being made by a fourth, a fifth, or an octave, in the same manner as the -chords in music, which charm our ears. The fifth was obtained by pouring -three measures of water on two of wine; one part water and two parts -wine made the octave; a quarter of wine and three quarters of water -produced the fourth,[XXVIII-29] a most inharmonious chord, struck only -by inexperienced and unskilful hands. - -Hippocrates, great physician as he was, had already somewhere -advised[XXVIII-30] this deplorable dereliction from all wise doctrines, -so true is it, that science sometimes goes astray; but, happily for his -glory, that learned man, further on,[XXVIII-31] recommends us to drink -pure wine, and to drink enough for joy to dissipate our griefs, and rock -us in the sweet errors of hope. - -The god of grapes had everywhere fervent admirers, except, perhaps, -among the Scythians. These schismatics refused to worship a divinity who -caused the faithful to become intoxicated.[XXVIII-32] In other places -they sacrificed to him a tiger, in order to show the power of his -empire;[XXVIII-33] and zealous disciples, with their heads crowned with -branches of the vine, holding in one hand a crater and in the other a -torch, ran with dishevelled hair about the streets, shouting to the son -of Jupiter, the terrible Evius,[XXVIII-34] in the silence of the -night.[XXVIII-35] - -The Romans addressed to him special prayers twice a year, on the -occasion of the wine festivals,[XXVIII-36] which took place in the -months of May and September. In the first, they tasted the -wine;[XXVIII-37] and, during the second, they implored the god to grant -Italy fine weather and abundant vintages.[XXVIII-38] - -The god could not reasonably refuse this request, for the vine-dressers -spared neither labour nor fatigue to procure an abundant harvest. They -were constantly seen disincumbering the plant of a too luxurious -foliage, thereby exposing the grapes to the sun’s rays, which bring them -to maturity, and breaking with indefatigable perseverance the least -clods of earth which, accumulating around the tendrils, appeared to -fatigue them by their weight.[XXVIII-39] And woe to the thief whom they -detected by night stealing any of these carefully reared grapes; his -crime was punished with death, unless the inexperience of youth pleaded -in his favour. In that case a severe flagellation impressed on - -[Illustration: _Pl. 25._] - -him permanently the remembrance of his fault and of the rights of -property.[XXVIII-40] - -The imperial jurisprudence afterwards softened the Draconian rigour of -this law of the Decemviri.[XXVIII-41] - -The ancients, like ourselves, were fond of seeing fresh grapes appear on -their tables at all periods of the year. They preserved them by covering -them with barley flour,[XXVIII-42] or by placing fine bunches in rain -water, diminished to a third by boiling. The vase was hermetically -sealed with pitch and plaster, and then placed in a spot where the sun’s -rays could not enter. This water was an excellent beverage for the -sick.[XXVIII-43] - -The method of making wine was precisely the same both in Greece and -Italy. - -The vine gatherers carefully rejected the green grapes,[XXVIII-44] and -piled the others in deep baskets,[XXVIII-45] the contents of which were -instantly emptied into large vats. There men, hardly clothed in the -lightest garments, trampled them under their feet,[XXVIII-46] whilst -joyous songs and sounds of flutes hastened their movements, and animated -them to work faster.[XXVIII-47] - -Wine obtained in this manner was much esteemed, and kept very -well.[XXVIII-48] The wort which escaped from the vat as soon as they had -thrown in the grapes, and which came from the pressure occasioned by -their laying one on the other, enjoyed the preference. This first liquor -was transformed into an exquisite wine.[XXVIII-49] - -The grapes, crushed by the feet, were placed under the press,[XXVIII-50] -and an opening made in the lower part of the vat allowed the wort to -flow into earthen jars, whence it was subsequently poured into the -barrels.[XXVIII-51] - -The press was always raised at a little distance from the cellar and -kitchen.[XXVIII-52] Its mechanism was very simple. The antiquities of -Herculaneum will furnish us with an example. Two trees were firmly fixed -in the ground, at a few feet distance one from the other, and a strong -horizontal beam rested on their summit. Other pieces of wood, similar - - DESCRIPTION OF PLATE No. XXII. - - No. 1. Wine-press, explained in the text. - - No. 2. A large vase, in which a man is sitting, supposed to be - Diogenes. This amphora is broken, and the pieces are joined by ties - of lead, cut dove-tailed. It is a bass-relief, from the Villa - Albani, published by Winkelman. - - No. 3. Represents a beast of burthen, with a pack saddle, loaded - with two amphoræ. This piece of terra cotta, drawn the size of the - original, is taken from the collection of children’s playthings of - Prince de Biscari. The difficulty of carriage was so great in - mountainous countries, that the inhabitants of the Alps substituted - for vessels of terra cotta, casks, or wooden tubs, put together - with wooden circles, similar to our own. (See Plate III., No. 4., - Chariot with four wheels, loaded with a cask.) - -to the top piece, were placed underneath. The grapes occupied the space -between the vat and the lower plank. Between each of the cross planks -wedges were introduced, and two persons kept striking them with hammers, -one on each side; it is thus the pressure was effected.[XXVIII-53] Wine -from the press, inferior to those just mentioned, served for the -ordinary consumption of the family, and for the servants.[XXVIII-54] It -was not racked, but simply taken from the barrel as it was -wanted.[XXVIII-55] - -The lees were taken from the press when it yielded no more liquor; a -certain quantity of water was poured over them, and the whole subjected -to a second pressure. The weak kind of wine obtained by this new -operation must have somewhat resembled that acrid stuff called -_piquette_, in France; it was the beverage of the people, and especially -of the country people during the winter.[XXVIII-56] - -A part of the wort--that which was required for immediate use--was put -aside, and clarified with vinegar.[XXVIII-57] A portion of that obtained -from the crushed grapes was put to boil on furnaces, supported on three -legs, at a little distance from the press, in coppers, the contents of -which were continually stirred.[XXVIII-58] This liquor, reduced by a -third, was called carenum;[XXVIII-59] when the half only remained, it -was called _defrutum_;[XXVIII-60] and, lastly, when the ebullition left -only a third part remaining, this substance, very similar to honey, took -the name of _sapa_.[XXVIII-61] It was mixed with flour, to fatten the -snails reared by skilful speculators, who reserved them for the Roman -sybarites.[XXVIII-62] - -This wort, thus prepared by night, when the moon did not -shine,[XXVIII-63] and carefully skimmed,[XXVIII-64] served to preserve -wines, to give more body to those which were thought too weak, and -became the base of several beverages sought in preference by Roman -ladies, at that period of life when maturity of years made alliance with -sensuality.[XXVIII-65] - -Those who wished to preserve sweet wine during a whole year, filled with -the second wort--that is to say, that which was produced by the pression -of the feet--some amphoræ covered with pitch inside and out. They were -then hermetically sealed, and buried in the sand, or plunged in cold -water, where they remained at least two months.[XXVIII-66] - -There still was left a large quantity of wort as it came from the -grapes. This was taken into the cellar,[XXVIII-67] which was always -situated a little below the level of the ground; or to the ground floor, -where no kind of smell was allowed to penetrate, or any emanation -capable of spoiling the bouquet of the wine it contained.[XXVIII-68] - -[Illustration: _Pl. 26._] - -At Herculaneum a spacious cellar has been discovered, round which -hogsheads were ranged, and built into the wall.[XXVIII-69] Another -cellar, at Pompeii, remarkable for its small size, is divided into two -compartments, both containing barrels, and divided one from the other by -an horizontal wall.[XXVIII-70] - -Large earthen vessels were found there, with and without handles, very -carefully executed, and smeared with pitch.[XXVIII-71] We know that the -cynic, Diogenes, dwelt in one of these vases; and that the king, -Alexander, found him crouching in his strange kind of -carapace.[XXVIII-72] The ancients had butts also, but they used them -only in cold countries.[XXVIII-73] - -The _Dolia_--for so they were named--were first subjected to a -fumigation with aromatic plants; then watered with sea-water, and buried -half way in the earth. They were separated each one from another, and -strict attention was paid to see that the cellar contained neither -leather, nor cheese, nor figs, nor old casks. Sometimes persons who -inhabited the country paved the store-room, spread sand, and placed the -dolia on it.[XXVIII-74] - -At the end of nine days, when the fermentation had cleared the wine from -those substances it rejects, they carefully covered the dolia, after -having smeared all the upper part of the inside, as well as the covers -themselves, with a mixture of defrutum, saffron, mastic, pitch, and pine -nuts.[XXVIII-75] The butts of aqueous wine were exposed to the north; -spirituous wines often braved the rain, the sun, and every change of -temperature.[XXVIII-76] - -They accelerated the fining of the wine by throwing in plaster, chalk, -marble dust, salt, resin, dregs of new wine, sea-water, myrrh, and -aromatic herbs.[XXVIII-77] The butts were uncovered once a month, or -more frequently, in order to refresh the contents; and before the head -was put on again, it was rubbed with pine nuts.[XXVIII-78] Wine was also -clarified by drawing it off into another butt, and mixing yolks of eggs -beaten with - - DESCRIPTION OF PLATE No. XXIII. - - COLUM NIVARIUM.--A strainer, used to separate the dregs from the - wine. Two are preserved in the collection of Herculaneum; they are - made of white metal, and worked with elegance. Each is composed of - two plates, round and concave, of four inches in diameter, supplied - with flat handles. The two dishes (as it were) and their handles - adapt to each other so well, that when put together they appear as - one; holes in great number are symmetrically perforated in the - upper dish, which keeps the dregs, and lets the clear liquid pass - through the lower one. The strainer here represented is taken from - Montfaucon’s “_Antiquities_,” and was found at Rome, towards the - end of the 17th century. It is of bronze, and ornamented. On the - handles are reliefs in silver, referring to the worship of - Bacchus. - -salt,[XXVIII-79] or straining it through the _colum nivarium_ (already -described),[XXVIII-80] covered with a piece of linen.[XXVIII-81] - -Fine wines were kept in the wood for two, three, or four years, -according to their different properties; after which they were -transferred to amphoræ, and that operation required the greatest -care.[XXVIII-82] - -The amphoræ were earthen pitchers with two handles,[XXVIII-83] reserved -for choice wines.[XXVIII-84] To prevent evaporation through their pores, -they covered them with pitch, and stopped the neck with wood or cork, -covered with a mastic composed of pitch, chalk, and oil, or any other -fat substance. The name of the wine was inscribed on the amphora; its -age was indicated by the designation of the consuls who were in office -when it was made. When the amphora was of glass, it was ticketed with -these details.[XXVIII-85] For this kind of vessels they had store-rooms, -which were commonly at the top of the house.[XXVIII-86] By exposing them -to the sun and to smoke the maturity of the wine was -hastened.[XXVIII-87] The discovery of this means of ripening, which the -Roman œnophiles never failed to practice, was attributed to the -Consul Opimius.[XXVIII-88] - -Pliny assures us that the vineyards of the entire world produce 195 -different kinds of wine; or double that number, if we reckon every -variety.[XXVIII-89] The whole universe, says he, furnishes only 80 of -superior quality, and of this number, two-thirds belong to -Italy.[XXVIII-90] Modern agriculture must have singularly disturbed the -calculations of the Roman naturalist. - -Let that be as it may, the best Greek wines were those of -Thasos,[XXVIII-91] Lesbos,[XXVIII-92] Chios,[XXVIII-93][Q] and -Cos.[XXVIII-94] Italy boasted of the Sentinum,[XXVIII-95] the - - DESCRIPTION OF PLATE No. XXIV. - - No. 1. Amphora, or Dolium. Upon one of the handles is engraved the - _sigles_ P. S. A. X; the first two, probably, are the initials of - the proprietor, and the last describes the capacity of the vase, - being 250 quarts.--MONTFAUCON’s “_Antiquities_,” expl. - - Nos. 2 and 3. Smaller Dolium, found at Herculaneum, buried at the - bottom of a cellar. The mouths of these vases were fixed in a - marble slab, and closed with a cover of the same material. There is - in the Villa Albani, an amphora of terra cotta of this kind, which - contained 18 Roman amphoræ, or 463 quarts, as marked by numerical - letters, engraved upon the outside. In 1750, one of these amphoræ - was found at Pouzzole, which was five feet six inches in height, - and five feet in diameter, containing 1,728 quarts. Several amphoræ - from Herculaneum and Pompeii have inscriptions written in colours, - and which give the name of the Prætor Nonnius; the same as those - found at Rome, which were inscribed with the name of the consul, to - fix the year of the vintage. - -[Illustration: _Pl. 27._] - -Falernum,[XXVIII-96] the Albanum,[XXVIII-97] and the -Mamertinum.[XXVIII-98] After these, a number of other excellent wines -occupied a very distinguished place in a long nomenclature to be found -in Pliny[XXVIII-99] and Athenæus.[XXVIII-100] - -The ancients professed to have a very particular veneration for wines of -a renowned growth, which had ripened slowly in amphoræ. Some gastronomic -archæologists produced, on their tables certain wines which had so far -dried up in leather bottles, that they were taken out in -lumps;[XXVIII-101] others, placed in the chimney corner, became in time -as hard as salt.[XXVIII-102] Petronius speaks of a wine of a hundred -leaves.[XXVIII-103] Pliny says that guests were served with wine more -than two hundred years old: it was as thick as honey.[XXVIII-104] This -wine was thinned with warm water, and passed through the straining bag -(_saccatio vinorum_).[XXVIII-105] - -This predilection for good old wine was common to the -Greeks;[XXVIII-106] the Romans--who liked it for the bitterness it had -contracted by age;[XXVIII-107] and the Egyptians, who, notwithstanding -their time-honoured love of beer, were not unjust towards the beverage -with which their Osiris found it so delightful to intoxicate -himself.[XXVIII-108] - -Athenæus sets no bounds to his praise of old wine. He says it is -excellent for the health; it is the best thing to dissolve the food; it -strengthens; it assists the circulation of the blood, and assures a -peaceful sleep.[XXVIII-109] Who, then, would be ungrateful enough to -refuse to drink? - -The topers of antiquity did not disdain white wine, but they seem to -have viewed it as of secondary importance. It digests easily, says the -writer just cited, but it is weak, and has but little body.[XXVIII-110] -Red wine, on the contrary, is full of strength and energy, and it is the -first that the inhabitants of Chios learned to make,[XXVIII-111] when -Œnopion, the son of Bacchus, had planted the vine in their -country.[XXVIII-112] - -However, there was no lack of amateurs of white wine, and, like -ourselves, the ancients doubtless preferred it when they eat snails, -oysters, or any of those shell fish with which the Lucrine lake -abounded. They even took it into their heads (how ingenious is -gluttony!) to change red wine sometimes into white. To do this it was -only necessary to put three whites of egg, or some bean flour, into a -flagon, and shake it a long time. The same result was obtained with -ashes from the white vine.[XXVIII.113] Now, is Apicius jesting with us a -little when he gives this recipe; or was it a legerdemain trick to amuse -the guests at the end of a repast, when too frequent libations had -rendered them incapable of distinguishing clearly one colour from -another? - -The Greeks endeavoured to preclude the disastrous effects of -intoxication by putting sea-water into the wine; a mixture which they -also thought had the effect of assisting digestion. One measure of water -was enough for fifty measures of wine.[XXVIII-114] And, again, the -merchants of that nation took so much interest in the health of foreign -consumers that they never shipped the wines of the Archipelago for Rome -or elsewhere without diluting them in this manner. Such, for example, -was the course followed in concocting that celebrated wine of Chios, -which Cato imitated so as to deceive the best judges.[XXVIII-115] That -honest geoponic has transmitted us his secret. Fifty-six pints of old -sea-water are thrown into a pipe of sweet wine made with grapes dried in -the sun; or two-thirds of a bushel of salt are put into a rush basket, -and suspended in the middle of the pipe, where it is left to -melt.[XXVIII-116] - -This very simple process metamorphoses the most indifferent liquor into -that delightful nectar which gave renown and fortune to the isle of Cos. - -The saline wine of the Greeks (_vinum tethalassomenon_) was nothing -else.[XXVIII-117] Their _thalassites_ wine, so much in demand in Italy -on account of its apparent age, owed its reputation to the fact of its -having been plunged for some time in the sea.[XXVIII-118] This little -trading knavery was a tolerably innocent means of increasing the profits -of the speculator, who hastened the maturity of his wines without -employing any of those deleterious ingredients which illicit traders -have introduced at a later period. When the wine had remained a -sufficient time in the sea to give it age, it was drawn off into -goatskin bottles, well coated with pitch, and, in this manner it -supported the longest sea voyages.[XXVIII-119] - -The following are the made wines most in vogue in olden times. - -The _Passum_ was one of those most esteemed in Rome, particularly, when -it came from Crete.[XXVIII-120] It was made with grapes, spread in the -sun until they were reduced in weight to one-half. The pips, thus dried, -were then put into a butt containing some excellent wort. When they were -well soaked, they were crushed with the feet, and then subjected to a -slight pressure in the wine-press. Sometimes they simply plunged the -fresh grapes into boiling oil, instead of exposing them to the sun, and -the result was the same.[XXVIII-121] - -The _Dulce_ wine was obtained by drying the grapes in the sun for three -days, and crushing them with the feet on the fourth, at the time of the -greatest heat.[XXVIII-122] The Emperor Commodus thought this a most -delectable drink.[XXVIII-123] - -The _Mulsum_, or honeyed wine, was an exquisite mixture of old Falernian -wine and new honey, from the Mount Hymettus.[XXVIII-124] The physician, -Cœlius Aurelianus, recommends the holding of warm mulsum in the mouth -as a palliative in cases of violent head-ache.[XXVIII-125] - -The name of _Anisites_ wine was given to that in which some grains of -aniseed had been infused.[XXVIII-126] - -The _Granatum_ was prepared by throwing thirty broken pomegranates into -a pipe of wine, and pouring over them ten pints and a-half of a -different wine, hard and sour. This drink was fit for use at the end of -thirty days.[XXVIII-127] - -Apicius gives us the recipe for the _Rosatum_:--“Put,” says he, “some -rose leaves into a clean linen cloth; sew it up, and leave it seven days -in the wine; take out the roses, and put in fresh ones; repeat the -operation three times, and then strain the wine. Add some honey at the -time of drinking. The roses must be fresh, and free from -dew.”[XXVIII-128] - -The _Violatum_ is made in the same manner, only violets are used instead -of roses.[XXVIII-129] - -Rosatum may also be obtained without roses, by putting a small basket -filled with green lemon leaves into a barrel of new wine before the -fermentation has taken place, and leaving them there for forty days. -This wine is to be mixed with honey before it is drunk.[XXVIII-130] - -Myrrh wine--_Myrrhinum_, among the ancients--was wine mixed with a -little myrrh, to render it better and make it keep longer. They thought -much of it.[XXVIII-131] - -All these wines, like those previously mentioned, were strained through -the _colum vinarium_ before they were served to the guests. This -strainer was composed of two round, deep dishes, of four inches in -diameter. The upper part was pierced, and received the wine, which ran -into the lower recipient, whence the cups were filled.[XXVIII-132] - -In Rome the price of common wine--sometimes adulterated[XXVIII-133]--was -300 sesterces for 40 urns, or 15 sesterces for an amphora; that is to -say, about sixpence per gallon.[XXVIII-134] At Athens it was thought -dear when it cost fourpence per gallon. This measure was commonly sold -for not more than twopence.[XXVIII-135] - -In the early days of the Roman republic women were forbidden to drink -wine;[XXVIII-136] but that law fell into disuse, and noble matrons often -carried intemperance as far as their toping husbands. - - -LIQUEUR WINE. - -It must be owned that the Roman law was, for a long time, tyrannical in -the extreme with regard to women. Totally interdict the use of wine! -Kill the unfortunate creatures who were unable to resist the seductions -of that dangerous liquor! For the Roman history furnishes us with more -than one example of that atrocious chastisement inflicted on the guilty -thirst of the fair sex. The barbarous Micennius immolated his wife on -the butt, at which he caught her one day, quenching her thirst at the -tap or the bunghole. The ferocious Romulus thought this act simple and -natural: he did not even reprimand the cruel husband.[XXVIII-137] - -Another unfortunate creature discovered the place where her husband kept -the keys of the cellar. She took them, and had the imprudent curiosity -to go and visit the mysterious and inauspicious treasure, to which she -was forbidden all access. Her family perceived this innocent larceny, -and refused her every kind of food, to punish her for an imaginary -crime. She died in the tortures of hunger.[XXVIII-138] - -Is it necessary to speak of C. Domitius, that uncourteous judge, who -deprived a lady of her marriage portion because she had taken the -liberty to drink a spoonful or two of wine unknown to her lord and -master?[XXVIII-139] But, let us say it at once--Roman civilisation put -an end to such strange manners; and so early as the age of Augustus, -Livia, the consort of that emperor, affirmed, when eighty-two years old, -that she was indebted to Bacchus for her long existence.[XXVIII-140] Let -us remark, by the way, that the great prince, her husband, honoured the -labours of the vine-dresser and the serious study of wines,[XXVIII-141] -to which little attention had been paid down to his time. It began then -to be understood that this grateful drink draws the ties of friendship -closer,[XXVIII-142] and all honest people, all generous souls, were -eager to taste it. - -The good Trajan quaffed off numberless cups every day: of course he -became the idol of the human species.[XXII-143] Agricola wished to -drink before he died.[XXII-144] The imbecile Claudius often found some ray of -wisdom at the bottom of an amphora.[XXVIII-145] Domitian merited the -pardon of his crimes, thanks to the streams of wine which during the -night ran from the fountains;[XXVIII-146] and Caligula would, perhaps, -have obtained that popularity which always failed him, had he possessed -sufficient sense to offer to the Roman people the delicious Falernian -wine he allotted to his favourite horse.[XXVIII-147] - -The ladies ventured, in the first place, to wet their lips with a few -drops of those light wines which the sun seemed to ripen for them at -Tibur, in the environs of Cumæ, and throughout Campania.[XXVIII-148] -After a short time, they braved the Falernian itself--true, they -generally mixed it with iced water or snow;[XXVIII-149] but the boldest -are reported to have risked that dangerous liquor without taking such -timid precautions. Falernian was a noble wine! They began to drink it as -soon as it had reached its tenth year. Then it was possible to bear up -against it. When it was twenty years old, it could only be mastered -after it was diluted with water. If older, it was unconquerable; it -attacked the nerves, and caused excruciating headache.[XXVIII-150] The -ladies struggled a long time for the victory; but, alas! the Falernian -always had the best of it. Tired out, at length, with so many useless -efforts, the wisest of them left it to their husbands, and sought other -beverages which possessed less dangerous charms. Greece and Italy -invented new drinks for them, which had a well-merited vogue, -notwithstanding the discredit into which they have fallen for many -centuries past. Our modern beauties would smile with an air of -incredulity if we were to extol asparagus wine, winter savory wine, wild -marjoram wine, parsley seed wine, or those made from mint, rue, -pennyroyal, and wild thyme; and yet these liquors were the delectable -drinks of the most distinguished women of ancient Rome, of those women -who could never find in the culinary productions of the entire universe -anything sufficiently delicate or rare. Are we, then, to blame their -taste, or question our own? - -Leaving aside this knotty question, which we do not feel ourselves -called upon to resolve, let us state that these different drinks were -prepared in a very simple manner. Two handfuls of one of the above-named -plants were put into a butt of wort; a pint of sapa and half a pint of -sea-water were added.[XXVIII-151] This wine was drunk by the Greek and -Roman ladies at breakfast,[XXVIII-152] and was an excellent substitute -for the _silatum_, a drink prepared with ochre, and which we can hardly -believe to have been introduced by sensuality alone.[XXVIII-153] - -It frequently happened, after a banquet, that the wearied and palled -stomach refused with loathing the least nourishment. An intelligent -slave failed not, under such circumstances, to present his languishing -mistress with a cup of wormwood wine, before she quitted her couch. -Anon, the livid paleness of her complexion brightened into the rosy hue -of health, the dimmed eye resumed its wonted lustre, and that very -evening the brilliant matron could seat herself fearlessly at a fresh -banquet. That precious wine, that fashionable tonic, which modern -sobriety--be it said to our praise--has rendered almost useless, sold -well in Rome under the reigns of the Emperors. It was composed by -boiling a pound of wormwood in 240 pints of wort until it was diminished -one-third. There was also a more simple method of making it, which was -to throw a few handfuls of wormwood into a butt of wine.[XXVIII-154] - -The live wood, or the leaves of the cedar, the cypress, the laurel, the -juniper-tree, or the turpentine-tree, boiled a long time in wort, -produced different bitter liqueurs, to which intemperance complacently -attributed benign qualities and numerous medical virtues.[XXVIII-155] -Equal praise may be accorded to hyssop wine, that famous mixture of -three ounces of the plant in twelve pints of wort.[XXVIII-156] Its -effects were surprising, and the most popular physicians would not have -failed to prescribe it for their languishing patients, whose strength -and gaiety it restored. - -But, thank Heaven! our Roman beauties were not always obliged to have -recourse to the gloomy experience of the disciples of Æsculapius; and -when they were in good health, more exhilarating liqueurs lent their aid -to toast their return to health and pleasure. They were then seen -sipping myrtle wine, a mild beverage, the light vapours of which brought -down calm and profound sleep. It was wisdom to drink it; for, alas! not -all that would, can sleep! If the reader be troubled with wakefulness, -he will hail with joy the recipe for this beneficent narcotic. Let him -take young myrtle branches with the leaves, pound them, and boil one -pound in eighteen pints of white wine, until it is reduced to -two-thirds.[XXVIII-157] Let him drink this liqueur of the Roman ladies, -and, without doubt, he will sleep as they did. - -The _petites maîtresses_, those delicate women, whose life seemed to be -a tissue of vapours mingled with tears--Rome abounded with them--would -have fainted even at the smell of the wines made up in the manner -indicated above. Their frail, nervous organization, required a different -kind of drink, and one was invented for them,--the _Adynamon_. This -adynamon, or wine without strength, was the most inoffensive of -liqueurs. It was obtained by boiling ten pints of water in twenty pints -of white wort.[XXVIII-158] A small cup of this salutary beverage -restored a debile Cynthia, a sickly Julia, when, negligently seated at -her toilet, a Bœotian slave brought a nosegay of lilies instead of a -crown of roses. These charming creatures would soon have lost the use of -their senses, if the adynamon had not been promptly applied to their -lips. But hardly had they tasted the marvellous liqueur when animation -resumed its calm and peaceful course; nay, after the lapse of a few -seconds, they were enabled, without any inconvenience whatever, to -witness the chastisement of the slave, whose naked shoulders and breasts -were lacerated by their orders with a thong studded with sharp -points.[XXVIII-159] Who, after that, would dare doubt the properties of -the adynamon wine? - -The _Œnanthinum_ wine was destined for more vigorous constitutions, -for natures of less exquisite delicacy. The Roman ladies, somewhat fond -of rusticating, who passed a part of the year in their villas, prepared -it by putting two pounds of wild vine flowers into a butt of wort. They -were left there thirty days, and then the liquor was drawn off into -other vessels.[XXVIII-160] - -Such were the vinous drinks which fashion formerly brought into repute -in the capital of the world. The women set no bounds to their taste for -these concocted wines; but went on from one excess to another as long as -the empire lasted. These strange habits, now buried under the Roman -colossus, have been replaced by a new order of civilisation. Woman, that -graceful being of whom antiquity was not worthy, now appears such as -Christianity has made her, to reveal to us virtues which ancient Greece -and Italy never knew. Daughter, wife, and mother, she consoles, -encourages, and supports man amid the trials of life. Her sweet smile -welcomes him at the cradle; her prayer accompanies him to the tomb. It -was she who softened the ferocious instincts of the barbarous hordes -that the forests of the north vomited over Europe; and still exercising -her empire over modern society, she is hailed as a queen, whose virtues -and chaste attractions render her the living embodiment of the flower -and the angel, those sweet symbols of love and beauty, between which a -modern poet has gracefully placed her throne. - - * * * * * - -The primitive inhabitants of Great Britain learned from the Romans to -plant the vine, under the reign of the Emperor Probus. The conquerors -taught them also the art of cutting it, and how to make wine. But, as -Strutt observes, the vine could never be of any great utility in this -country. It was more ornamental than useful, with the exception that it -afforded the means of procuring a cool retreat and shade.[XXVIII-161] However, -some provinces of England became celebrated for their wines. “The county -of Gloucester is renowned for its vines,” says William of Malmesbury; -“and the wines it produces are scarcely inferior to those of -France.”[XXVIII-162] - -Saint-Louis was the first who established statutes for the dealers in -wine.[XXVIII-163] New ones were framed in 1585,[XXVIII-164] and the -dealers were then divided into four classes, each of which was -designated by a particular name, viz., the inn-keepers, the publicans, -the tavern-keepers, and the wine-dealers by measure. The inn-keepers had -accommodation for man and horse; the publicans served drink with -table-cloth and plates--that is to say, they might serve food and drink -at the same time; the tavern-keepers served drink alone; and the retail -dealers could only sell it in considerable quantities at one -time.[XXVIII-165] In 1680 these four classes were reduced to -two--wine-merchants and retail wine-dealers. - -Under the reign of Louis XIV., a great dispute arose concerning the -relative merits of Burgundy and Champagne wines, and the preference due -to the one or the other. This quarrel originated in a thesis, maintained -at the commencement of the 17th century at the Medical School of Paris, -in which it was asserted, that the wine of Beaune, in Burgundy, was not -only the most agreeable but the most wholesome. This thesis excited no -murmur at the time: from the 13th century the wine of Beaune had always -enjoyed the highest reputation, and no one dreamed of disputing it. But -forty years later they risked a proposition much more rash than the -preceding one: it was maintained, in the same school, that the wines of -Burgundy were not only preferable to those of Champagne, but that the -latter attack the nerves, cause a fermentation of the humours, and -infallibly bring on the gout in persons not naturally subject to it. -They fortified this incredible opinion with the authority of the -celebrated Fagon, chief physician of Louis XIV., who had just forbidden -the king, as they said, the use of Champagne wine. - -The Champagne people took fire--it was time--the dangerous heresy -threatened to spread; so they attacked the Burgundians bravely. The -latter defended themselves with equal courage. The battle waxed warm. -Each party sought to crush their antagonists with heavy writings. The -inhabitants of Burgundy pretended that the wine of Champagne owed its -vogue entirely to the influence of Colbert and Louvois, the then -ministers, one of whom was a native of Champagne, and the other in -possession of immense vineyards. The Champagne growers proved that this -assertion was false in every particular. Long before the time of these -two statesmen, said they, the French got tipsy on Champagne wine; ergo, -they valued that exhilarating liquor. This argument was irrefragable. -They might have added that, from the 16th century, the wine of Aï, a -canton of Champagne, enjoyed such renown that the Emperor Charles V., -Pope Leo X., Henry VIII. of England, and Francis I. of France, were -anxious to possess this nectar, and tradition assures us that each of -these great sovereigns purchased a close at Aï, in which a little house -was built for a vine-dresser, who sent them every year a stock of wine, -which enlivened their repasts.[XXVIII-166] - -The epicureans took part in this great discussion, and that they might -give their judgment after mature deliberation, founded on a perfect -knowledge of facts, they have been tasting Champagne and Burgundy wines -these two hundred years. May the vouchers in this suit never fail them! - -Wine was long used for presents and fees--a custom established under -Charlemagne. After a baptism, a marriage, or a burial, the priests -received the _vicar’s wine_; before marriage, _wedding wine_ was offered -to the intended bride; after a law-suit, the counsellor was presented -with _clerk’s wine_; the _wine of citizenship_ was given to the mayor of -a town in which any person took up his abode. This present subsequently -took the name of _pot-de-vin_ (bribe), still in great favour. It has -changed its character, certainly, but the variations have multiplied to -infinity.[XXVIII-167] - -In the middle ages sober people intoxicated themselves regularly once a -month. Arnaud de Villeneuve examines seriously the advantages of this -Hygienic custom.[XXVIII-168] There was a kind of glory attached to the -swallowing of more wine than any other man without being _non compos -mentis_. There was, however, a means of avoiding these bacchanalian -encounters. It was, to choose a champion who, as in judicial combats, -accepted the challenges for his candidate, to whom the victory or defeat -was attributed, as if he himself had drank.[XXVIII-169] - -In the middle ages, and in the 16th century, intoxication was severely -punished in France. - -By five ordinances, in the years 802, 803, 810, 812, and 813, -Charlemagne declares habitual drinkers unworthy of being heard before -courts of justice in their own cause, or as witness for -another.[XXVIII-170] - -Francis I. decreed, by an edict, in the month of August, 1536, that -whosoever should be found intoxicated was to be imprisoned on bread and -water for the first offence; the second time, flogging in the prison was -added; the third time, he was publicly flogged; and if the offender was -incorrigible, his ears were out off, he was deemed infamous, and -banished the kingdom.[XXVIII-171] - -Now every one is free to quench his thirst, and drink more if he -chooses. - -“_The Crafte to make Ypocras._--Take a quarte of red wine, an ounce of -synamon, ane halfe an once (ounce) of gynger, a quarter of an unnce -(ounce) of greynes and long pepper, and halfe a pound of suger, and -brose all this (not too small), and then put them in a bage of wullen -clothe, made therefore (for that purpose), with the wire, and it hange -over a vessel tyll the wine be run thorowe -(through).”[XXVIII-172]--Quoted by STRUTT. - -The English were extremely partial to a drink they called _Clarey_, or -_Clarre_. According to Arnold[XXVIII-173] it was compounded in the -following manner:-- - -“For eighteen gallons of good wyne, take halfe a pounde of ginger, -quarter of a pound of long peper, an ounce of safron, a quarter of an -ounce of coliaundyr, two ounces of calomole dromatycus, and the third -part as much honey that is clarifyed as of youre wyne, streyne them -through a cloth, and do it into a clene vessell.” - -John, in the first year of his reign, made a law that a tun of Rochelle -wine should not be sold for more than twenty shillings, a tun of wine -from Anjou for twenty-three shillings, and a tun of French wine for -twenty-five shillings, except some that might be of the very best sort, -which was allowed to be raised to twenty-six shillings and fourpence, -but not for more, in any case. By retail, a gallon of Rochelle wine was -to be sold for fourpence, and a gallon of white wine for sixpence, and -no dearer.[XXVIII-174] - - - - -XXIX. - -REPASTS. - - -Mortals were formerly remarkably sober, and the gods themselves set them -the example, by feeding exclusively on ambrosia and nectar.[XXIX-1] The -most illustrious warriors in the Homeric ages were generally contented -with a piece of roast beef; for a festival, or a wedding dinner, the -frugal fare was a piece of roast beef; and the king of kings, the -pompous Agamemnon, offered no greater rarity to the august chiefs of -Greece, assembled round his hospitable table. It is true that the guest -to be most honoured received for his own share an entire fillet of -beef.[XXIX-2] - -The vigorous but uncultivated appetites of these heroes were hardly -satisfied when everything disappeared, and none of them thought to -prolong the pleasures of good cheer.[XXIX-3] Happy times of ingenuous -and ignorant frugality! what has become of you? - -It must not, however, be imagined that they were entirely destitute of -more refined aliments. Homer gives to the Hellespont the epithet of -_fishy_; Ithaca, and several other islands of Greece, abounded in -excellent game;[XXIX-4] but the magiric genius was asleep--it awoke at a -later period. - -Beware, however, of a mistake: those men--with so little choice -respecting their viands--all possessed stomachs of astounding -capacity.[XXIX-5] Theagenes, an athlete of Thasos, eat a whole -bull;[XXIX-6] Milo of Crotona did the same thing--at least once.[XXIX-7] -Titormus had an ox served for supper, and when he rose from table, they -say not a morsel remained.[XXIX-8] Astydamas of Miletus, invited to -supper by the Persian, Ariobarzanes, devoured a feast prepared for nine -persons.[XXIX-9] Cambis, King of Lydia, had such an unfortunate -appetite, that one night the glutton devoured his wife![XXIX-10] Thys, -King of the Paphlagonians, was afflicted with voracity nearly -similar.[XXIX-11] The Persian Cantibaris, eat so much and so long that -his jaws were at last tired, and then attentive servants used to press -the food into his mouth.[XXIX-12] - -These are facts of which we do not exactly guarantee the truth, for -history--it is no secret--has some little resemblance to the microscope: -it frequently magnifies objects by presenting them to us through its -deceitful prism. - -We close this singularly incomplete list of the ancient polyphagists by -adding that the Pharsalians[XXIX-13] and the Thessalians[XXIX-14] were -redoubtable eaters, and that the Egyptians consumed a prodigious -quantity of bread.[XXIX-15] - -In more modern times, some men have acquired, by the energy of their -hunger, an illustration they would have vainly demanded from their -genius or their virtues. The Emperor Claudius sat down to table at all -hours and in any place. One day, when he was dispensing justice -according to his own fashion in the market-place of Augustus, his -olfactory nerves scented the delicious odour of a feast which exhaled -from one of the neighbouring temples. It was the priests of Mars, who -were merry-making at the expense of the good souls in the surrounding -locality. The glutton emperor immediately left his judgment-seat, and, -without any further ceremony, went and asked them for a knife and -fork.[XXIX-16] Never, no, never, adds the biographer of this prince, did -he leave a repast until he was distended with food and soaked with -drink, and then only to sleep. Yes, the ignoble Cæsar slept; but still, -the “peacock’s feather,” an unseemly invention of Roman turpitude, was -called into requisition to prepare the monarch for new -excesses.[XXIX-17] - -Galba could taste nothing if he was not served with inconceivable -profusion. His stomach imposed limits upon him, but his eyes knew none; -and when he had gloated to his heart’s content upon the magnificent -spectacle of innumerable viands for which the universe had been -ransacked, he would have the imperial dessert taken slowly round the -table, and then heaped up to a prodigious height before the astonished -guests.[XXIX-18] - -Vitellius, the boldest liver, perhaps, of the whole imperial crew, and -the most active polyphagist of past times, caused himself to be invited -the same day to several senatorial families. This deplorable honour -often caused their ruin, for each repast cost not less than 400,000 -sesterces (£3,200). The intrepid Vitellius was equal to the whole, -thanks to the peacock’s feather, which, doubtless, was cursed more than -once by the unfortunate victims of his dreadful gluttony.[XXIX-19] - -True, this poor prince was continually tormented with a hunger that no -aliment seemed capable of satisfying. In the sacrifices, like the -Harpies of whom Virgil speaks,[XXIX-20] he took the half-roasted viands -from the altars, and disputed the sacred cakes with the gods. As he -passed through the streets he seized the smoking-hot food spread out -before the shops and public-houses; he did not even disdain the -disgusting scraps that a miserable plebeian had gnawed the evening -before, and which a hunger-stricken slave would have hardly contested -with him.[XXIX-21] - -Such were the masters of the world, the proud Cæsars! before whom -haughty Rome bowed the head and trembled, and from whom it basely -implored a smile, up to that day when some soldiers, tired of their -shameful obedience, kicked the imperial corpse into the Tiber, after -having mutilated it in presence of the populace, who crowded joyously -around the Gemoniæ.[XXIX-22] - -These terrific examples of insatiable voracity have become rare and -obscure. A few isolated facts may perhaps be met with at very distant -periods, which remind us of the polyphagic celebrities of Greece and -Italy. There are, however, two which would have merited the attention of -Vitellius himself. - -The ingenuous Fuller[XXIX-23] speaks of a man, named Nicholas Wood, to -whom the county of Kent proudly claims the honour of having given birth, -who once eat a whole sheep at one meal. One day three dozen of pigeons -were placed before him, of which he left only the bones. Another day, -being at Lord Wootton’s, and having a good appetite, he devoured -eighty-four rabbits and eighteen yards of black-pudding for his -breakfast. We leave to Fuller the responsibility of the figures. Any -how, the brave Nicholas Wood must have been a vigorous trencher-man! - -The second anecdote is from Berchoux:-- - -Marshal Villars had a house-porter who was an enormous eater. “Franz,” -said he, one day, “tell me, now, how many loins you could eat?” “Ah! my -lord, as for loins, not many: five or six at most.” “And how many legs -of mutton?” “Ah! as for legs of mutton, not many: seven or eight -perhaps.” “And fatted pullets?” “Ah! as for pullets, my lord, not many: -not more than a dozen.” “And pigeons?” “Ah! as for pigeons, not many: -perhaps forty--fifty at most, according to the appetite.” “And larks?” -“Ah! as for that, my lord--little larks--for ever, my lord, for -ever!”[XXIX-24] - -A truce to gluttons. Let us speak of epicureans. - -It is to them that gastronomic civilization owes the laws by which it is -regulated; they were the legislators of the table: they introduced -regularity and order at repasts. The breakfast, dinner, collation, and -supper were created by those sages. Fashion has often modified the -nomenclature, but assuredly it will never be able to supersede it. - -The Greeks submitted to it for many years;[XXIX-25] and then, that -fickle people, whom everything wearied, declined the drudgery of -masticating so frequently. The lower orders and the army eat twice a -day;[XXIX-26] the fashionable people contented themselves with one -repast,[XXIX-27] which some had served at mid-day,[XXIX-28] but the greater -part just before sunset.[XXIX-29] The party of resistance had, as yet, -yielded only on one point--the collation; and they continued bravely to -breakfast, dine, and sup.[XXIX-30] But the monophagists were not sparing -in their jokes, and the new fashion triumphed at last over the -prescription of ancient usages.[XXIX-31] Pagan sobriety was doubtless -far from suspecting that the Book of Ecclesiastes, in accordance with it -on this subject, pronounces an anathema against the kingdom whose -princes eat in the morning.[XXIX-32] - -The Greek manners were introduced in Rome, and persons of a certain -rank, who did not make a profession of gluttony, gave themselves up to -the pleasures of the table only once a day.[XXIX-33] - -The tyranny of fashion was not, however, such that all persons thought -themselves bound to obey it under pain of being shamed and ridiculed. -Many unscrupulously transgressed its laws, and more than one respectable -Greek of good family, following the example of Ulysses, who prepared his -breakfast at sun-rise,[XXIX-34] had the _acratism_ brought so soon as -the crowing of the cock announced the return of day.[XXIX-35] This -frugal breakfast was composed of bread steeped in pure wine.[XXIX-36] -The adults restricted themselves to this slight repast, but the children -received more substantial nourishment.[XXIX-37] - -The Romans, when they were not asleep, breakfasted at three or four -o’clock in the morning.[XXIX-38] A little bread and cheese,[XXIX-39] or -dry fruits,[XXIX-40] enabled them to wait for the solemn hour of the -banquets. - -It would appear that the Jews dined at mid-day;[XXIX-41] it was the hour -at which St. Peter was hungry.[XXIX-42] This repast took place also -among the Greeks about the middle of the day,[XXIX-43] if we are to -believe Athenæus. However, Cicero relates that the philosopher Plato -appeared to be very much astonished, when travelling in Italy, to see -the inhabitants eat twice every day.[XXIX-44] It will only be necessary -to repeat that the supper alone formed the rule, and that the breakfast -and dinner were exceptions; they depended entirely upon the casualties -of will. - -About mid-day[XXIX-45] the sober Romans had a slight collation.[XXIX-46] -Seneca, who never loses sight of himself in his fastidious treatises on -wisdom, informs us that a little bread and a few figs were all that his -virtue required.[XXIX-47] - -The senators, the knights, and the luxurious freed-men, spared no -expense either for dinner or supper. The priests of Mars, of whom we -have already spoken, set them an example too seductive for them not to -follow it.[XXIX-48] It is to be remarked, by the way, that those worthy -ministers of the god of war took this repast in the most secret part of -their temple, where they hardly allowed any one to come and interrupt -them. This gastronomic quietude was also very much the taste of a -celebrated modern sailor, the Bailiff de Suffrein. He was at dinner in -Achem, India, when a deputation from the town was announced. Being a -witty glutton, he conceived the happy thought of sending word to the -importunate troop that an article of the Christian religion expressly -prohibited every Christian from occupying himself with anything besides -eating, that function being of the most serious importance. This reply -singularly edified the deputation, who retired with respect, admiring -the extreme devotion of the French general.[XXIX-49] - -The collation--_merenda_--was little in use. It took place about the end -of the day, before supper, particularly in summer, among the workmen and -farm labourers.[XXIX-50] - -We now come to the principal repast, to that which threw such brilliancy -over the latter centuries of Rome, when a culinary monomania, a sort of -gastronomic furor, seemed to have seized the sovereign people, who, no -longer great by their conquests, betrayed a desire to become so by the -number and audacity of their follies. - -The Hebrews supped at the ninth hour, that is to say, about three -o’clock in the afternoon.[XXIX-51] Their custom of two repasts would be -sufficiently proved by the fact that, on fast days, they took food only -in the evening.[XXIX-52] Hence, when they did not fast, they also eat at -another hour. Their ordinary aliment was very simple; we shall have to -speak of it hereafter. - -In the primitive times, kings prepared their own suppers.[XXIX-53] Beef, -mutton, goat’s flesh--such were the viands which then satisfied the -daintiest palates.[XXIX-54] Baskets, filled with pure wheaten bread, -were carried round to the guests,[XXIX-55] and heaps of salt, placed on -the table, gave proof of the hospitality of those simple and -unsophisticated ages.[XXIX-56] - -The fierce warriors of that warlike period never forgot to invoke the -gods before they satisfied their appetites: libations of wine rendered -them favourable.[XXIX-57] This pious duty once fulfilled, they gave -themselves up without restraint, to the joys of good cheer; and the -sounds of the lyre and the buffooneries of mountebanks enlivened the -banquet,[XXIX-58] which again received fresh animation from the copious -healths, which persons the least versed in the forms of society never -forgot.[XXIX-59] - -It often happened that each one paid his share, or brought provisions -with him[XXIX-60] to these joyous suppers, of which the last rays of the -setting sun always gave the periodical signal.[XXIX-61] The uncertainty -of these amicable meetings constituted their charm. Pic-nics, as we see, -may be traced rather far back. - -It was then that pleasure presided at those repasts; dulness had its -turn when luxury proscribed the supper in open air, and in -common,[XXIX-62] after the manner of the Jews, who assembled in gardens, -or under trees,[XXIX-63] and mingled the sweet harmony of music with the -less delicate seductions of their banquets.[XXIX-64] - -The breakfast has always taken place after rising; dinner in the middle -of the day; the collation in the course of the afternoon; and the supper -in the evening. In the 14th century, people dined at ten o’clock in the -morning.[XXIX-65] One or two centuries later, they dined at eleven -o’clock. In the 16th century, and at the commencement of the 17th, they -dined at mid-day in the best houses. Louis XIV., himself, always sat -down to table at that hour.[XXIX-66] This order was not modified until -the 18th century. - -The Sicilian cooks taught unheard-of refinements, and were sought after -with strange eagerness.[XXIX-67] The chine of beef and haunch of mutton -of the Homeric epoch, gave way to sumptuous banquets, and a learned -prodigality divided them into two or three acts, or courses,[XXIX-68] -the order and luxurious majesty of which have been adopted in modern -times. - -It appears that three or four o’clock in the afternoon--the ninth -hour--was the time invariably fixed for the supper of the -Romans.[XXIX-69] Like the Greeks of yore, they contented themselves at -first with simple aliments, and few in number; subsequently, three -courses, sometimes seven,[XXIX-70] or even many more, appeared to them -to be hardly sufficient to satisfy the ardent voracity of their eyes, -and glut stomachs which odious precautions assimilated to the buckets of -Danaus’s daughters. - -These suppers, the details of which always appear to us as bearing the -impress of exaggeration, notwithstanding the authority of the writers -who furnish them, were insufficient for certain prodigies of -extravagance and furious gluttony, who were served at midnight with a -sort of “wake” (_comissatio_),[XXIX-71] at which some of them gave proof -of renewed greed and vigour. - -Vitellius was renowned for this kind of nocturnal debauchery;[XXIX-72] -others shone in the second rank, but no one equalled that monarch-cook, -who made the empire a market, and his shameful reign an unceasing -banquet. - -Sensual enjoyments, and every variety of barbarity that follows in their -train, were carried to the highest pitch. There was something vast and -monstrous, of which nothing can give us an idea, in the eclipse of mind, -and the depravity of their hearts. All that force of intelligence and -will which, under the influence of Christian spiritualism, has revealed -itself in modern times by so many chivalric inspirations, so many moral -institutions, so many scientific discoveries, so many industrial works, -then ingulfed in the senses, was taxed solely for their gratification. -The sensual organization of man had acquired a development apparently as -vast as that of intelligence, because intelligence had become the -handmaid of the senses: hence those colossal proportions in the tastes, -the banquets, the pleasures of the ancients, when compared with ours, -which make us regard them as an extinct race of giants, if we consider -them in a sensual point of view; and as a race of pygmies, if we measure -them by that power of ideas--that metaphysical and moral elevation--to -which we have attained, and which would make a child of our days the -catechist of all the philosophers of antiquity.[XXIX-73] - -Down to the time of the conquest of the north of Europe by the Romans, -the food was very simple. Chopped herbs boiled in cauldrons, served in -wooden bowls on the hide of an ox, spread on the ground, in the midst of -the forest; balls composed of different kinds of flour, and some strips -of meat grilled on the embers--such was the food of our -forefathers.[XXIX-74] - -The table at which the Anglo-Saxons took their repasts, was covered with -a very clean cloth. Each one received a horn cup, which contained some -kind of pottage, or ale--the beverage for which they had a -predilection.[XXIX-75] The plates with which Strutt has enriched his -work give a satisfactory idea of the culinary intelligence of the -nation. They had spits, knives, plates, and dishes in abundance. England -was marching with giant strides towards civilization.[XXIX-76] - -The Anglo-Saxons were particularly fond of boiled meat. They cut up the -animal they intended to cook, put the pieces into a cauldron, supported -by a tripod, and then lighted a fire on the ground. They stirred their -_ragoût_ incessantly with a long two-pronged fork, which also served -them to take out the meat when it was done.[XXIX-77] - -All the deplorable excesses of the Romans ought not to divert us from -the fact, that religion and sound policy seem to have consecrated -repasts in common, as one of the means best calculated to unite men more -closely in the bonds of concord and friendship.[XXIX-78] The Scriptures -furnish us with the first examples. Among the Israelites, the banquets -which followed the sacrifices always took place in an assembly of -relations, neighbours, or friends.[XXIX-79] They eat together and in -public on wedding days and solemn festivals.[XXIX-80] - -The first Christians promptly adopted this custom: their love -feasts--their _agapæ_--were served in the church, after the Communion. -The rich contributed to them abundantly; the poor according to their -means; and the indigent who presented themselves with nothing in their -hands, were received and treated as brethren.[XXIX-81] Admirable -association of penury and opulence, which will never be replaced by the -crude Utopias of modern philanthropy! - -As an act of justice to Pagan legislators, we are compelled to say that -sometimes they had excellent views, which go far to extenuate many of -their aberrations. The laws of Minos prescribed to the Cretans the -annual levy of an impost, the half of which was to be consecrated to the -nourishment of the people. No one could eat alone; a certain number of -families met together to take their repasts in common.[XXIX-82] At -Lacedæmon, each one brought his share of the provisions necessary for -the supper of the whole;[XXIX-83] or he sent at the commencement of the -month to the steward of the common halls, wine, cheese, figs, a measure -of flour, and a small sum of money to defray other expenses.[XXIX-84] -Friendship, sobriety, and concord presided, without exception, at these -meetings. - -Solon decreed that the Athenians should assemble at the Prytanea to eat -together--sometimes one, sometimes another--at the public expense. Each -was invited in his turn, and was expected to be there on the day -named.[XXIX-85] The Prytanea of Athens, Megara, Olympia, and Cyzica, -contained a great number of porticoes, under which were the tables at -which the citizens sat. - -The founder of Rome also had the wisdom to ordain that, in certain -cases, the inhabitants of the same ward should take their repasts in -common, as a sign of peace and good feeling; nay, more: he decreed these -suppers to be a part of the religious worship, and they were called -“sacred banquets.”[XXIX-86] - -Man abuses every thing. The Romans, tired of eating merely to support -life, and disdaining, little by little, that austere sobriety which -rendered them the masters of the world, gave themselves up at last to -unbridled luxury, which appears to have redoubled during the war of -Italy, and the civil wars of Marius, 83 B.C. Cornelius Sylla assumed the -government, and one of the terrible dictator’s laws (_Lex Cornelia_) -renewed the ancient sumptuary regulations, and fixed the prices of -provisions.[XXIX-87] Julius Cæsar also made great efforts to oppose the -redoubtable invasions of Roman gastronomy. That prince stationed guards -in the markets, with orders to seize whatever they found there in -contravention of the laws. If, through want of vigilance or fidelity, -they allowed anything to escape, it was sure to be confiscated by more -active agents, on the very tables, and in presence of the assembled -guests.[XXIX-88] Resistance only increased the evil. Augustus thought to -render the laws more efficacious by modifying them. He permitted twelve -persons to meet in honour of the twelve great gods, and to spend eight -shillings in ordinary repasts; twelve shillings in the banquets of the -calends, the ides, and the nones; and even two pounds on wedding days -and the day following.[XXIX-89] - -Tiberius granted still more. Under his reign, a worthy citizen might -spend for supper the sum of four pounds, without having to fear that any -one would find fault with it.[XXIX-90] - -Caligula, Claudius, and Nero--doubtless better judges of liberty than -their predecessors--allowed every one the right to ruin himself as -joyously as he pleased. These good princes, so far from repressing the -luxury of the table, strove to fortify it with the authority of their -examples.[XXIX-91] - -Vitellius was by nature a non-reformer. That voracious Cæsar operated on -a large scale; he spent in four months, for his suppers, a little more -than five millions sterling.[XXIX-92] A trifle for a Roman emperor! Did -not the riches and labour of Europe, Asia, and Africa, form his civil -list? It is quite true that out of this modest revenue he had to find -corn to stop the cravings of the proletarians, and provide the games of -the Circus, in order to amuse them in their dangerous idleness. But -Vitellius, who had no other passion than that of good cheer, was royally -equal to the task. And these things cause no surprise when we remember -that a Roman general, Lucullus, spent not less than £1,000 to offer a -little collation to two of his friends, who refused him the time he -required to treat them in a less unceremonious manner. - -We find in the history of “_Jack of Newbury_”[XXIX-93] instructions -relative to the manner in which an English tradesman was to feed the -persons in his employment in the 16th century, which would certainly not -be very pleasing now to that useful and laborious class:-- - -“You feed your folks with the best of beef and the finest of wheat, -which is an oversight; neither do I hear of any knight in this country -that doth it, and, to say the truth, how were they able to bear that -part which they do, if they saved it not by some means? Come thither, -and I warrant you that you shall see brown bread upon the board; if it -be of wheat and rye mingled together, it is a great matter, and bread -most highly commended, but most commonly they eat barley bread, or rye -mingled with peasen or such-like coarse grain, which is doubtless of -small price, and there is no other bread allowed except it be at their -own board; and in like manner for their meat, it is well known that -necks and points of beef is their ordinary fare; which, because it is -commonly lean, they seeth therewith now and then a piece of bacon or -pork, whereby they make their pottage fat, and therewith drive out the -rest with more content: and this you must do. And besides that, the -midriffs of oxen, and the cheeks, the sheep’s heads, and the gathers, -which you give away at your gate, might serve them well enough; this -would be a great spareing to your meat, and by this means you would save -much money in the year, whereby you might better maintain your French -hood and silk gown.” - -The following is the style of living at the court of the Dauphin of -France in the 14th century:-- - -As in all well-regulated houses, there were five repasts, viz.: the -morning (except on fast days), the breakfast; the repast of ten -o’clock,--(_dix heures_, or the _décimheure_; by abbreviation _décimer_, -and by a second abbreviation, _dîner_)--the dinner; the second dinner, -the supper (_souper_), at which they eat no more soup than we do; and -lastly, the night repast, which they called a collation. - -As an every-day fare, the Dauphin took for his dinner a rice pottage, -with leeks or cabbage, a piece of beef, another of salt pork, a dish of -six hens or twelve pullets, divided in two, a piece of roast pork, -cheese, and fruit; at supper, a piece of roast beef, a dish of brains, -neat’s feet, with vinegar, cheese and fruit. Other days, other dishes, -which were also pre-arranged with respect to kind and quantity. The -barons of the court had always the half of the quantity of the Dauphin; -the knights, the quarter; the equerries and chaplains, the eighth. The -distributions of wine and bread were made in the same proportions; such -a rank, such weight, such measure; so that the young and delicate -baroness had four pots of wine, while the chorister and the chaplain had -but one.[XXIX-94] - -We are indebted to the learned Monteil for the following details -relative to the public repasts of Louis XIV.:--[XXIX-95] - -The usher of the court, at the hour named, goes and knocks with his wand -at the door of the hall of the body-guard, and says: “Gentlemen, to the -king’s table!” a guard is dispatched, who follow him to the goblet, -where one of the officers for the service of the table takes the nave. -The guard accompany him, marching by his side, sword in hand. - -Having arrived at the dining-room, the officers spread the cloth, try -the napkins, the fork, the spoon, the knife, and the tooth-picks; that -is to say, they touch them with a morsel of bread, which they afterwards -eat. - -The usher returns again to the hall of the body-guard, knocks at the -door with his wand, and cries: “Gentlemen, the king’s meat!” Four guards -then follow him to the ambry, where the equerry of the household and the -chief steward, or major-domo, test the dishes, by dipping a piece of -bread, which they eat. After this, the king’s meat is carried, the -guards marching with their drawn swords on either side; the chief -steward, preceded by the usher, walking in front. When he arrives near -the table, he approaches the nave, and makes his obeisance to it; and if -the announcer, or any other person desire also to do it, he may. The -gentlemen-in-waiting place the dishes successively, and the table being -covered with them, the king then enters. - -It is to be remarked, that it is always a prince or a great personage -who presents the wet napkin to him with which to wash his hands, whereas -it is a simple valet who presents him with the dry napkin to wipe them. - -The king takes his seat. - -The equerry-carver carves the viands. - -The king serves himself on a plate of gold. - -When he asks for drink, the cup-bearer calls aloud: “Drink for the -king!” At the same time he makes his obeisance to him, goes to the -buffet, takes two crystal decanters, one of which is filled with wine, -and the other with water, returns to the king, makes another obeisance, -removes the cover of the glass, and presents it to the king, who pours -out wine and water according to his own pleasure. - -During the dinner or supper of the king, a group of lordly courtiers -stand behind his chair, and endeavour--though frequently in vain--to -divert him, and make him laugh; and another group, composed of ladies of -the court, stand behind the queen’s chair, who, on their part, try to -amuse her, and excite a smile. - -Whether the king eat in public or private, the table is always served in -the same manner:-- - - -AT DINNER. - - TWO LARGE TERRINES OF SOUP. - TWO MIDDLING-SIZED ONES. - TWO SMALL ONES AS SIDE DISHES. - - FIRST COURSE. SECOND COURSE. - TWO LARGE DISHES. TWO LARGE DISHES OF ROAST. - TWO MIDDLING-SIZED ONES. TWO MORE, AS SIDE DISHES. - SIX SMALL ONES, AS SIDE DISHES. - - -AT SUPPER. - -_The same number of dishes, only there is but three-fourths of the quantity - of soup._ - -The king eats only with the royal family and princes of the blood. - -Sometimes, however, the Pope’s nuncio has the honour of sitting at his -table, but always at the distance of four places.[XXIX-96] - -The luxury of the table was carried so far under Edward III. of England, -that that prince was constrained, in the 17th year of his reign, to -impose sumptuary laws on his subjects, forbidding the common people the -indulgence of costly food and fine wines.[XXIX-97] - -The necessity for this measure is demonstrated by the fact, of which we -read in the chronicles of Stow,[XXIX-98] that, “at the marriage of -Lionel, Duke of Clarence, the third son of Edward III., with Violentis, -the daughter of Galeasius II., Duke of Milan, there was a rich feast, in -which above _thirty_ courses were served at the table, and the fragments -that remained were more than sufficient to have served a thousand -people.” - -The same chronicler also informs us that King Richard II. held the -Christmas feasts in the great hall of Westminster in 1399, “and such -numbers came, that every day there were slain twenty-six or twenty-eight -oxen and three hundred sheep, besides fowls without number.”[XXIX-99] - -Richard Nevil, Earl of Warwick, kept so good a table, that his guests -often eat six fat oxen for their breakfast.[XXIX-100] “In number of -dishes and change of meate,” says Holinshed,[XXIX-101] “the nobilitie of -Englande do most exceede, sith there is no daye in maner that passeth -over their heades, wherein they have not onely beefe, mutton, veale, -lambe, kidde, pork, conie, capon, pigge, or so many of these as the -season yieldeth, but also some portion of the redde or fallow deere, -beside great varietie of fishe and wilde fowle, and thereto sundrie -other delicates, wherein the sweet hand of the portingale is not -wanting.” - -So early as the 16th century the inhabitants of the City of London were -remarkable for the astonishing profusion of their repasts, if we are to -believe the poet Massinger-- - - “Men may talk of country Christmas, and court gluttony, - Their thirty pounds for buttered eggs, their pies of carps’ tongues, - Their pheasants drenched with ambergrise; the carcases - Of three fat wethers bruised for gravy, to - Make sauce for a single peacock:--yet their feasts - Were fasts, compared with the City’s.”[XXIX-102] - -The description of one dish will enable us to judge of the others-- - - “Three sucking pigs, served up in a dish, - Took from the sow as soon as she had farrowed, - A fortnight fed with dates and muskadine,[Z] - That stood my master in twenty marks a piece; - Besides the puddings in their bellies, made - Of I know not what.”[XXIX-103] - -Hang thyself, voluptuous Apicius! thou hast never dreamed of such -delicate fare! - -In the comedy of the “_Parson’s Wedding_,”[XXIX-104] the captain orders -for his supper “chines fry’d and the salmon calver’d, a carp and black -sauce, red deer in the blood, and an assembly of woodcocks and -jacksnipes, so fat you would think they had their winding-sheets on; and -upon these, as their pages, let me have wait your Sussex wheatear, with -a feather in his cap; over all which let our countryman, general chine -of beef, command. I hate your French pottage, that looks as if the -cook-maid had more hand in it than the cook.” - -The luxurious munificence of Norman kings is almost as remarkable as -that of the emperors of degenerate Rome. - -William the Conqueror had himself crowned three times in the same year, -and the banquets he gave on those occasions were such that they -impoverished the kingdom.[XXIX-105] - -At the dinner given on the marriage of Richard, Earl of Cornwall, and -brother of Henry III., with the daughter of Raymond, Earl of Provence, -more than _thirty thousand_ dishes were served on the table of the bride -and bridegroom.[XXIX-106] - -In the year 1252, “John Mansel, the king’s counsellor, gave a stately -dinner to the kings of England and Scotland and their queens; there was -also present Edward, the king’s son, the Bishop of London, and many -earls, barons, knights, and citizens; in short, so large was his -company, that his house at Totehill could not contain them; therefore he -set up tents and pavilions for their reception; _seven hundred_ messes -of meat was not sufficient to serve them for the first -course.”[XXIX-107] - -The following details, which we borrow from Monteil’s excellent -work,[XXIX-108] give us some idea of the style of living in the mansions -of France during the 14th century:-- - -“Whenever there is a dinner of ceremony, the clerks of the church are -requested to bring holy water. The repast is commenced and concluded -with fruit. The bread eaten is in loaves of nine ounces only. Every -bason of meat is surrounded with sage, lavender, or other aromatic -herbs; and on Sunday, or any holiday, negus is given. The sideboard, or -buffet, is always in the middle of the room, covered with jugs and large -drinking cups of gold and silver. - -“The cellars, store-rooms, kneading troughs, dairies, and fruit-stores, -are filled and emptied unceasingly--take who will, when he will, and as -much as he will. Provisions of every kind are heaped up with a profusion -that announces magnificence allied with riches. - -“The great number of nobles, knights, huntsmen, falconers, pages, -kitchen servants, butlers, bakers, the numerous valets, workmen, -gardeners, harbingers, door-keepers, porters, and guards are not equal -to the task of consuming so much. From all sides come relations, allies, -neighbours, friends, pilgrims, and travellers, all of whom remain or -depart at will, being feasted as if it were the morrow of a wedding, or -a patronal festivity. - -“The kitchen chimney-places are not less than twelve feet in width. One -man would not have strength sufficient to use the tongs or the shovels. -The andirons do not weigh less than a hundred pounds, the trivets forty -pounds; copper saucepans of thirty pounds are common, and so are spits -of eleven and twelve pounds. One roast is composed of one, two, or three -calves, two, three, or four sheep, besides game, venison, and poultry. -The boiling of the saucepans, the exhalations from the grease, render -the atmosphere so fat, so thick, that it is only necessary to breathe in -it to feed. A person would not dare enter one of those kitchens on the -eve of a feast day, for fear, as it were, of breaking his fast. - -“In the 16th century persons washed their hands at the commencement of a -repast, and a second time when it was concluded. When the master of the -house was particular on the point of civility, he had a bason sent round -at this second ablution, filled with perfumed water.[XXIX-109] - -“When the person seated in the chief place was a guest of distinction, -politeness made it indispensable to present him with water to rinse his -mouth.[XXIX-110] - -“One of the most difficult points of French civility in the 16th century -was to drink to a person’s health, or return the compliment in a proper -manner.[XXIX-111] A guest at one end of the table held up his glass, and -called out: ‘Mr. Such-a-one, to your health!’ He replied: ‘I love it -from you!’[XXIX-112] During the whole of the repast, healths were -bandied to and fro, in every sense. At the end they touched glasses -together at a central point, which created a very singular kind of -clash, and, at the same time, the arms underneath formed a sort of -fasces of sleeves and cuffs.”[XXIX-113] - - - - -XXX. - -VARIETY OF REPASTS. - - -The fertile country inhabited by the Jewish people furnished them with a -very great variety of excellent provisions. Those of which they made the -greatest consumption, and which we find generally mentioned in the -Scriptures, are bread, flour, barley, beans, lentils, wine, raisins, -figs, honey, butter, oil, sheep, oxen, fatted calves, &c.[XXX-1] - -The fat of animals offered in sacrifice was reserved for the -Lord;[XXX-2] but, with this exception, the Hebrews could freely make use -of it. They esteemed it much, and when they wished to speak of a rich -banquet, they called it “a banquet of fat animals.”[XXX-3] “He that -loveth wine and oil,”[R] says Solomon, “shall not be rich.”[XXX-4] - -The extreme simplicity of the greater part of the Biblical repasts ought -not to induce us to suppose that the Jews were entire strangers to the -inspirations of good cheer. “Solomon’s provisions for one day were -thirty measures of fine flour, and three score measures of meal, ten fat -oxen, and twenty oxen out of the pastures, and an hundred sheep, besides -harts, and roebucks, and fallow-deer, and fatted fowl.”[XXX-5] - -That primitive nation also knew different kinds of banquets, which, -conformably with their _naïve_ manners, were associated with the -celebration of a religious solemnity, a sad or a joyful event, a family -festivity or mourning, a victory or a public calamity.[XXX-6] - -The Greeks and Romans, skilful masters in the art of good living, were -early on the alert to assure the collection of all things necessary for -the support of life. “Take care,” said Aurelian to Flavius, “take care, -above all things, that the markets of Rome be well supplied: nothing -more gay or more peaceful than the people, when they are well -fed.”[XXX-7] This remark is much more profound than it at first appears. - -At Athens, special officers visited the markets, and only permitted each -citizen to purchase and keep in his own house the quantity of provisions -necessary for one year.[XXX-8] - -The ediles of Rome performed nearly similar functions.[XXX-9] The -prefect of the town was invested with the power of making regulations -for the markets,[XXX-10] and the prefect of provisions had the -inspection of the sale of bread, meat, wine, fish, and all other kinds -of aliment required either for the table of the rich or poor -plebeian.[XXX-11] - -During a long time, in Greece and Italy, the only charm of repasts was, -that they furnished an opportunity for the exercise of those duties of -kind hospitality, which Apollodorus has described in the following -ingenuous style: “As soon as a friend,” says he, “steps on the threshold -of his host, the porter receives him with a smiling face; the dog of the -house comes immediately to caress him, amicably wagging his tail; then -some one runs and presents him a seat without being told.”[XXX-12] This -last trait is charming. - -But afterwards, they thought much more of honouring the god of good -cheer than Jupiter Hospes, and joyous Comus became everywhere the -fashionable divinity. One of the ancients describes him in the following -manner: “He is seen at the door of an apartment communicating with the -banqueting hall; his smiling face is fresh, plump, and ruddy; his head -is crowned with roses, and he sleeps standing; his left hand rests on a -thyrsus, but sleep makes him loose his hold; he staggers, and the torch -will soon fall from his grasp.”[XXX-13] - -The Greeks were fervent in their worship of this god, at an epoch when -Rome still prided herself on her transcendant sobriety. Conon gave a -banquet to all the Athenians after the battle of Cnidos, about four -centuries before the Christian era; and his celebrated contemporary, the -handsome Alcibiades, conqueror in the Olympic games, magnificently -regaled the numerous spectators who had just applauded his -triumph.[XXX-14] - -The pagan temples themselves often rung with the sound of the music, the -chaunts, and the dances which always accompanied the religious banquets. -These feasts in honour of the immortals must have been rather unedifying -to the truly faithful, for gaiety generally degenerated into extreme -licentiousness.[XXX-15] - -The conquest of Asia was fatal to the Romans. Their savage rudeness -yielded to the effeminate manners of the vanquished; and henceforth, the -epicureans of Italy studied but one thing--gastronomic delectation; had -but one worship--that of the goddess Victua,[XXX-16] protectress of -food, and sovereign of the table. - -Luxury made appalling progress. Nearly a century B.C., the Romans did -not blush to give 50 denarii (£1 16_s._) for a young fatted peacock; 3 -denarii at least (more than 2_s._) for a thrush;[XXX-17] and, a century -later, 4,000 sesterces (£36) were given for a couple of fine young -pigeons.[XXX-18] - -Worse followed! - -Seneca describes in few words the luxury of the table among the -voluptuous Romans:--“Behold,” says he, “Nomentanus and Apicius, those -happy conquerors of all that is delectable on earth or in the sea. -Behold them at table, stretched on their couches, and contemplating -innumerable viands. Harmonious songs flatter their ears, a variety of -pleasing objects occupy their eyes, and the most exquisite savours -captivate their insatiable palates.”[XXX-19] - -The genius of gluttony multiplied the banquets by prescribing luxurious -gastronomic assemblages, sometimes in honour of the gods, and often for -the gratification of simple mortals themselves. - -Each year, at the ides of November, a repast was offered to Jupiter in -the Capitol (_cœna Capitolina_). The statue of the god was present at -the banquet, reclining on a magnificent couch, with Juno and Minerva -seated on either side. These divinities were splendidly served, and, as -they touched nothing, in the middle of the night the seven epulary -priests joyously eat the supper of the three immortals.[XXX-20] - -The cereal banquet (_cœna Cerealis_) was equally splendid, and Ceres -maintained the same frugality.[XXX-21] - -A sterile reminiscence of the equality which reigned among men in the -golden age, placed the slaves at table by the side of their masters, -during the celebration of the Saturnalia (_cœna Saturnalis_).[XXX-22] -This usage was common to the Greeks and Romans.[XXX-23] - -The ninth day of the August calends, and the thirteenth day of the -November calends, a gastronomic solemnity--a monstrous gala--brought -together the Roman pontiffs to celebrate the day of their inauguration -(_cœna pontificalis_). This banquet was worthy of the proverbial -delicacy of those sacred stomachs.[XXX-24] - -The augurs treated themselves magnificently in their turn (_cœna -auguralis_), when they entered on their functions. The pagan priests of -Rome vied one with another in a noble emulation of exquisite refinement -and ruinous viands;[XXX-25] but it is said that the ministers of Mars, -who had the reputation of being arch-epicureans (_cœna saliaris_), -always won the palm in this struggle of magnificence and -voluptuousness.[XXX-26] - -The day the Emperor took the title of Augustus, he gave a supper -(_cœna imperatoria_) to the senators and magistrates. The tributes of -a year were sometimes hardly sufficient to indemnify the grand master of -these imperial orgies.[XXX-27] - -The triumphal banquets (_cœna triumphalis_) were less elegant, no -doubt, but they cost the victor who invited the people immense -sums.[XXX-28] The guests crowded into the vast inclosure of the temple -of Jupiter Capitolinus,[XXX-29] or the temple of Hercules.[XXX-30] - -They sat down to table to celebrate the anniversary of a birth-day -(_cœna natalitia_),[XXX-31] the happy wedding-day (_cœna -nuptialis_),[XXX-32] the arrival of a friend (_cœna -adventitia_),[XXX-33] the sad day of his departure (_cœna -viatica_).[XXX-34] The melancholy ceremony of interment was followed by -a supper (_cœna funebris_), at which the guests were the relations -and friends of the deceased.[XXX-35] They drank to his manes, and, by -degrees, the wine not only stifled their laments but called forth joyous -smiles. The Romans have bequeathed to certain modern nations more than -the remembrance of their funeral repasts. - -In the palmy days of Athens, the Greeks evinced more of the epicurean -than the glutton--a fact which may be inferred from the description of -the supper of Dinias.[XXX-36] The most magnificent of their repasts was, -perhaps, that which Alexander the Great had served to ten thousand -guests, who received, each one, a present of a golden patera.[XXX-37] - -In Greece, as in Rome, the greater part of the events of life occasioned -the joyous meeting of relations and friends. At the birth of a -child,[XXX-38] a banquet was given in his honour; he was named on the -tenth day, and the ceremony terminated with a banquet,[XXX-39] in which -they offered the guests cooked Cherso cheese, cabbage boiled in oil, -pigeons, thrushes, fish, and brimming cups of excellent wine.[XXX-40] -The teething repast took place when the child had attained his seventh -month, and the weaning supper when he began to eat.[XXX-41] - -These family feasts, more or less sumptuous according to the fortune and -rank of the individuals who gave them, were generally signalized by a -custom which ridiculous and egotistical vanity could alone authorise and -maintain. On the banquet day care was taken to throw the feathers of the -poultry before the door of the house, in order to excite the fruitless -greed of the poor wretches, who, as they passed,[XXX-42] prayed heartily -that the infernal divinities might take the proud amphitryon, his -guests, and even the meanest of his servants. - - * * * * * - -In France, about 1350, the setier (about twelve English bushels) -of--[XXX-43] - - £ _s._ _d._ - Wheat was worth 0 0 7 - Rye 0 0 3 - Oats 0 0 2½ - Beans 0 0 5 - Peas 0 0 6 - A Hogshead of Wine 0 4 7 - A Load of Hay 0 1 10 - An Ox 0 6 10 - A Horse 0 11 6 - A Calf 0 1 2 - A Sheep 0 0 4 - A Fat Pig 0 2 0 - A Gosling 0 0 1 - A Hen 0 0 0¾ - 100 Eggs 0 0 1½ - 1lb of Butter 0 0 3½ - 1lb of Honey 0 0 10½ - 1lb of Wax 0 1 10 - -Prices of a few articles in France during the 15th century:[XXX-44] - - £ _s._ _d._ - 1lb of Bread 0 0 0¼ - 1 Pint of Wine 0 0 0¼ - 1 Pint of Mustard 0 0 0¾ - 1 Bushel of Salt 0 0 2½ - 1lb of Pepper 0 0 2 - 1lb of Cinnamon 0 1 2 - 1lb of Bacon 0 0 0¾ - A Pair of Pigeons 0 0 1¼ - A Pair of Partridges 0 0 2½ - A Cart-load of Wood (_une voie_) 0 0 8 - A Sack of Charcoal 0 0 1 - 1lb of Candles 0 0 0½ - -In England, under the reign of Edward III., a royal proclamation fixed -the price of the following articles:--[XXX-45] - - £ _s._ _d._ - A Swan 0 0 4 - A Porcelle 0 0 8 - An Ewe 0 0 6 - A Capon 0 0 6 - A Hen 0 0 4 - A Pullet 0 0 2½ - A Poucyn 0 0 2 - A Coney 0 0 4 - A Teal 0 0 2 - A River Mallard 0 0 5 - A Snipe 0 0 1 - A Woodcock 0 0 3 - A Partridge 0 0 5 - A Plover 0 0 3 - A Pheasant 0 1 4 - Twelve Eggs 0 0 1 - Twelve Small Birds 0 0 1 - -The funeral repast of Sir John Redstone, Mayor of London, who died in -153l, occasioned the following expenses:-- - - £ _s._ _d._ - Shipe Brede 0 7 5 - 7lbs of Sugar for the same 0 4 1 - Two unces of Saffrun 0 2 0 - Two unces of Clovys and Mace 0 1 8 - Seven unces of Pepper 0 0 10½ - Sixty Eggs 0 0 7½ - Seven dysshes of Butter, at 4¼_d._ - the gallone 0 3 3¾ - Manchet Brede 0 1 0 - 400 of Peers 0 2 4 - 1lb of Bysketts 0 0 8 - - TO THE PYKE-MONGER. - - Sixteen Pikes, at 1_s._ 4_d._ a piece 1 1 4 - Eight roundes of Sturgeon 1 2 0 - - TO THE PULTER. - - Six roundes of Brawne 0 11 8 - Ten Swannes, at 6_s._ a piece 3 0 0 - Two dozen of Quayles 0 10 0 - Three dozen of Rabetts 0 6 6 - Twenty-two Capons 0 12 10 - Nine dozen of Pygeons, at 10_d._ - per dozen 0 7 6 - Four Gese 0 2 8 - 300 Eggs 0 3 9 - - TO THE BOWCHER. - - A Surloyne of Beffe 0 2 4 - Half a Vele (Calf) 0 2 8 - Four Marybones 0 0 8 - - TO THE MYLKE-WYFFE. - - Two Gallones and Six Dishes of Butter 0 4 2 - Eight Gallones of Creme 0 4 0 - Twelve Gallones of Curdde 0 1 6 - - TO THE BREWER. - - Three Barrelles of Ale 0 11 0 - A Kylderkyn of Bere 0 1 0 - For Double Bere to the Tabull 0 0 4 - Yest 0 0 4 - - TO THE VYNTENER. - - Thirty two Gallones of Redde and - Clarett Wyne, at 10_d._ per gallon 1 6 8 - Three Gallones of Mackeray 0 0 4 - A Rundlett of Muskadine 0 6 0 - 1lb of Bread 0 0 0¼ - - THE GROCER. - - £ _s._ _d._ - Six unces of Pepper 0 0 9 - Four unces of Clovys and Mace 0 2 4 - Two unces of Saffrone 0 1 10 - 18lb of Pruenes 0 3 0 - 8lb of Corans 0 1 8 - 6lb of Dates 0 2 0 - 11lb of Byskettes 0 0 10 - 12lb of Sugar 0 7 0 - Five unces of Cynimion 0 1 3 - Four unces of Gynger 0 0 6 - - THE BAKER. - - Four busshelles of Chete, at 1_s._ - 10_d._ the busshelle 0 7 4 - For Hot Brede 0 4 0 - For Fyne Flour 0 0 11 - For Basterde Flour 0 1 10 - - THE CHAUNDELER. - - A Peck and a-half of Salt 0 0 6 - For Candelles 0 0 4 - For Vennyger 0 0 4 - For Vergeys 0 0 6 - For Pack-threade and Mustarde 0 0 2 - For Cappys (Capers) 0 0 2 - For Lop of Pottes 0 0 8 - For Hyer of Pottes 0 0 4 - - THE COOKE. - - For hys labor and companye for - eighteen messes of meat 0 15 0 - For Yerbys 0 0 8 - A Quarter of a Hundred of Fagottes 0 1 2 - For Coles 0 1 6 - Paide the turners of broches and - skulyons, four of them 0 1 4 - -The following is a correct copy of a monster bill of fare, from a paper -found in the Tower of London:--[S] - - 300 Quarters of Wheat. - 300 Tuns of Ale. - 104 Tuns of Wine. - One Pipe of Spiced Wine. - 10 Fat Oxen. - 6 Wild Bulls. - 300 Pigs. - 1004 Wethers. - 300 Hogs. - 3000 Calves. - 300 Capons. - 100 Peacocks. - 200 Cranes. - 200 Kids. - 2000 Chickens. - 4000 Pigeons. - 4000 Rabbits. - 4000 Ducks. - 204 Bitterns. - 400 Hernsies. - 200 Pheasants. - 500 Partridges. - 5000 Woodcocks. - 400 Plovers. - 100 Curlews. - 100 Quails. - 1000 Eggets. - 200 Rees. - 4000 Bucks, Does, and Roebucks. - 155 Hot Venison Pasties. - 4000 Cold Venison Pasties. - 1000 Dishes of Jellies. - 2000 Hot Custards. - 4000 Cold Custards. - 400 Tarts. - 300 Pikes. - 300 Breams. - 8 Seals, and 4 Porpoises. - -At the feast, the Earl of Warwick was steward; the Earl of Bedford, -treasurer; the Lord Hastings, comptroller, with many noble officers; -servitors, 1000; cooks, 62; kitcheners and scullions, 515. - -In France (14th and 15th centuries) the repasts were commonly divided -into five parts, called courses, or dishes.[XXX-47] - -The first course was composed of cherries, tender fruits, citrons, and -salads.[XXX-48] - -Milk-porridge, puddings, and pottages followed; it was the second -course.[XXX-49] - -The third consisted of roast, with various sauces.[XXX-50] - -The second roast, or fourth course,[XXX-51] presented the guests with -venison and game. - -The fifth course took the name of fruit-course. At this they served -tarts made with all sorts of herbs, flowers, grains, vegetables, and -fruit.[XXX-52] - -[Illustration: _Pl. 28._] - - - - -XXXI. - -THE DINING-ROOM. - - -The _cœnaculum_ (dining-room), properly so called, was the place in -the upper part of the house where they eat.[XXXI-1] It was reached by a -staircase,[XXXI-2] and thither persons repaired during the summer, -particularly in the country. The Roman villas terminated by a platform, -on which the Romans often collected at meal-time; the air was not so -hot, and the panorama of the neighbouring country-seats was presented -without obstruction, to the gaze of the guests.[XXXI-3] - -The dining-room was commonly decorated with fasces of arms and -trophies,[XXXI-4] which served as a momento of the warlike virtues of -the ancestors of the master of the house. Enchanting frescoes stood out -marvellously from the obscure shading of the wall, round which were -twined fresh garlands of flowers; and a mosaic floor--master-piece of -art and patience--harmonised with the fascinating landscape of the -ceiling, the site of which varied with every course.[XXXI-5] - -The Emperor Nero, who carried this taste for the beautiful rather too -far, devised a sort of vault, in the most elegant style, and entirely -composed of movable leaves of ivory, which exhaled sweet - - DESCRIPTION OF PLATE No. XXV. - - No. 1. Large vase, or _cratère_; a vessel which was placed in the - banqueting-room, and also on the empty space left on the tables. In - it was put wine and water, which was taken out with a _simpulum_, a - kind of small cup, fixed to a very long handle, bent at the - extremity as a hook, to fill the cups of the guests. When the - _cratères_ were not fixed on tripods (_engytheca_, or _angotheca_), - which supported them, they only differed from the cups by their - size. Some were of such dimensions that Herodotus speaks of two - _cratères_, one containing 300 amphoræ, and the other 600; there - vases commonly exceeded ten-fold the size of the cups, to which - they were very similar in shape and handles. - - No. 2. A glass vase, with two handles, for iced water. - - No. 3. Glass bottle, with its cup, placed on the table for each - guest. - -perfumes, and whence flowers fell on the guests. In another of his -dining-rooms admiration was excited by a magnificent dome, the rotary -movement of which imitated, day and night, the course of the celestial -bodies.[XXXI-6] These prodigies of ancient mechanism adorned the palace -that the prodigal Cæsar called “the gilded house.”[XXXI-7] The colossal -statue of that prince rose in the middle of the hall: it was 120 feet -high![XXXI-8] - -Studious people, or those who wished to appear so, covered some part of -the dining-room with books; for it was a custom introduced into Rome to -have recitations or readings during the repast.[XXXI-9] Atticus had -always a reader;[XXXI-10] and Juvenal promises the friend he invites to -supper that he shall hear some fragments from Virgil and Homer.[XXXI-11] - -The Greeks yielded willingly to this intellectual pastime at the -commencement of the banquet, whilst incense and other perfumes filled -the room with a light vapour.[XXXI-12] - -Opposite the entrance-door stood a buffet, sometimes of iron, but more -generally among the Greeks of sculptured wood, bronze, or silver, on -which were represented the heads of oxen or satyrs.[XXXI-13] This piece -of furniture was placed under the protection of Mercury, and a curtain -commonly veiled the front of it. It served for the display of precious -plate--vases of silver, silver-gilt, and gold, enriched with magnificent -precious stones.[XXXI-14] - -The buffet of the Romans,--a sort of sideboard, of rare -workmanship,--was appropriated to the same use.[XXXI-15] Sometimes a -single foot supported a white marble table, surrounded with a border of -_vert-antique_, and plates and dishes were arranged on two elegant -shelves placed above.[XXXI-16] Again, the artist frequently conceived -the idea of giving a whimsical form to the buffet, which enhanced its -price--it was a ship laden with the vases necessary for the banquet; -four enormous amphoræ occupied the deck, on the two sides of the mast; -towards the prow was a candelabrum, and at the stern was displayed a -large-bellied cantharus, or vase, with mobile handles;[XXXI-17] the -main-topmast - - DESCRIPTION OF PLATE No. XXVI. - - No. 1. A glass vase, with two handles. - - No. 2. A glass vase, with three handles. - - No. 3. Etruscan vase, with three handles, terra cotta. - - No. 4. A large silver vase, to hold wine and water; when placed on - the table, the liquor was taken out with simpulum, to fill the - drinking cups. - - No. 5. A large-bellied cantharus--“_Herculaneum_.” - -[Illustration: _Pl. 20._] - -[Illustration] - -[Illustration: _Pl. 21._] - -was replaced by a large urn, and two cups of Bacchus were gracefully -balanced at either extremity of the yard,[XXXI-18] along which were -suspended craters, or vases, used in drinking wine.[XXXI-19] - -The buffet of the Greeks and Romans survived the ruins of those two -celebrated nations; we find it again in the middle ages, and even in -more modern times. Then also, rich people loved to display their plate -on a very apparent piece of furniture, which, being dressed, took the -name of “dresser.” Monstrelet, describing the magnificence of the Duke -of Burgundy during his sojourn in Paris, relates: “that in the room of -his mansion in which he eat was a square dresser (_dressoir_) with -shelves, which dresser was covered and loaded with very rich gold and -silver plate.”[XXXI-20] - -Sovereigns who affected great munificence had buffets of metal; there -were three--one for silver, one for silver-gilt, and one for gold. At -the banquet which the King of France, Charles V., gave to the Emperor -Charles IV., his uncle, each of the three buffets was of the same metal -as the plate it supported.[XXXI-21] - -After the birth of a child, ladies, when they received visits, had a -dresser placed in their room. Those of countesses and great ladies had -three shelves; those of the wives of the younger sons of baronets had -two; women well-connected but not titled could have no shelf. Those who -enjoyed the honours of the court placed by the side of the buffet a -little table, covered with a white cloth, destined for the hippocrass -and spiced wine they offered their visitors,[XXXI-22] and which they -drank in hanaps, or a kind of chalice of earthenware, gold, or silver. -Those of crystal were much esteemed. Charles the Bald gave to the Abbey -of St. Denis a hanap, said to have belonged to Solomon. “It was of pure -gold, fine emeralds, fine garnets, and the work so marvellous that in -all the kingdoms of the world never was there anything so -perfect.”[XXXI-23] - -The great lords also indulged in metal dressers,[XXXI-24] to which the -16th century gave the name of “buffets.” Under Henry II. of France the -court called them _crédence_, from an Italian word bearing the same -meaning,[XXXI-25] and which they have retained. - -The Hebrews probably knew nothing of chimneys. When King Jehoiakim -burned the book which Jeremiah had written, “he sat in the winter-house -in the ninth month: and there was a fire on the hearth burning before -him.”[XXXI-26] - -When, among the Greeks or Romans, they wanted to warm the dining-room, -they also had recourse to braziers or bronze furnaces of the dimension -of a middling-sized table, resting on lion’s claws. Foliage in copper, -bronze, and silver, was artistically incrusted round the edge. The -bottom was a very thick iron grating. Above and beneath, brick-work -prevented the coal from touching the upper part, or escaping through the -interstices.[XXXI-27] - -They also made use of two kinds of stoves to warm the dining-room--the -one was concealed under ground in the massive wall, and little pipes -extended from its orifice to the apartment; the other, portative and -light, disappeared whenever it was judged expedient.[XXXI-28] - -Among the pagans, the dining-room was lighted by torches made of a -resinous wood,[XXXI-29] or tallow candles.[XXXI-30] The rich had lamps, -candelabra,[XXXI-31] or magnificent lustres suspended from the -ceiling.[XXXI-32] They even knew the luxury of wax candles.[XXXI-33] - -In the middle ages, the sovereigns and the great lords had, in the -middle of their dining-rooms, fountains playing, which poured fourth -wine, hippocrass, and other liquors. Some gave rose-water and divers -odoriferous liquids to perfume the banqueting-hall. - -Rubruquis found in Tartary a Parisian goldsmith, Guillaume Boucher, who -had settled under the sway of the Khan, and had made him one of those -fountains. - - DESCRIPTION OF PLATE No. XXVI A. - - THE DUKE OF BRUNSWICK’S VASE.--This is one of the finest monuments - we have yet seen, which has reference to the mysteries and - sacrifices of Ceres and Bacchus. It is a precious vase, made of one - single piece of onyx, from the cabinet of the Duke of Brunswick, - and of the size represented in the engraving. It was published, and - learnedly explained, in 1682, by Jean Henry Eggeling, and printed - in the same year. This vase is of a singular form; has one handle, - and on the other side a spout, which begins at the bottom, and - finishes by a bend towards the top, to pour out the liquor. - Eggeling believes that this vase is of the number of those the - ancients called _guttus_, because the liquor came out drop by drop: - he comes to that conclusion from a passage of Varro--“_Quo vinum - dabant, ut minutatim funderent, a guttis guttum appellarunt_.” The - vase is divided in three parts by two bands of gold, by which it is - girdled: that of the middle, which forms the largest space, - contains also a larger number of figures. The third diminishes - towards the foot, and has figures also, all of which represent the - mysteries and sacrifices of Ceres and Bacchus. - - The reader will probably feel interested how this vase came into - the possession of the Duke of Brunswick. It was in the cabinet of - the Duke of Mantua. When that city was taken and sacked, in 1629, a - soldier, who had possession of the vase, offered it to Francis - Albert, Duke of Lower Saxony, his commander, who gave him a hundred - ducats as a reward. This prince left it by will to the Princess - Christina Marguerite of Mecklenburg, his wife, who left it in the - same way to her sister, the Princess Sophia, Duchess of Brunswick. - She also gave it by will to her son, Ferdinand Albert, Duke of - Brunswick. The lapidaries thought so much of it, that they offered, - in turn, from sixty to ninety thousand imperials. In the inventory - of the Princess Sophia it was valued at one hundred and fifty - thousand imperials.[T] - -[Illustration: DUKE OF BRUNSWICK’S VASE.] - -The municipal bodies adopted them. At the entrance of Charles VII. into -Paris, one of this kind was seen in the Rue St. Denis:--“One of the -tubes spouted milk, another vermilion-coloured wine, another white wine, -and another pure water; and persons stood all round with silver cups to -give drink to the passers-by.” - -In the 17th century playing fountains were still used at -repasts.[XXXI-34] - - - - -XXXII. - -THE TABLE. - - -It is pretended, says Athenæus, that in the Homeric times each guest had -a table to himself,[XXXII-1] on which he was served with “a saddle-back -of beef, or a whole sheep or goat.” It was the custom among the heroes, -all men of high lineage, and tolerably aristocratic in their tastes. The -burghers of those warlike times and the villeins of the epoch eat their -dinner, without form or ceremony, on a heap of grass, which also served -them as a seat or couch.[XXXII-2] - -Wooden tables--at first very clumsy ones, no doubt--only came into use -when the development of human industry had enabled men to understand -that they might be preferable to a truss of hay.[XXXII-3] A passage in -Homer would seem to show that they were very much like ours.[XXXII-4] -Perhaps the circular form was generally preferred.[XXXII-5] - -Luxury soon called for the most precious materials, and the Greeks had, -at a very early period, tables of bronze,[XXXII-6] and even of fine -silver.[XXXII-7] The isle of Rhenea produced magnificent ones,[XXXII-8] -and an expensive fashion caused those luxurious pieces of furniture to -be prized when they presented delicate incrustations of silver, bronze, -or ivory, and rested on lions’ claws or leopards’ feet.[XXXII-9] - -Cneus Manlius introduced these rarities into Rome after the conquest of -Asia.[XXXII-10] He was also the originator of tables veneered with -plates of gold,[XXXII-11] which ere long adorned the dining-rooms of -princes and senators, and the excessive price of which was only -surpassed by that of tables made of precious woods from distant -countries.[XXXII-12] The maple, the whitten, and a species of African -lemon-tree occupied the first rank,[XXXII-13] and the prodigious skill -of the workmen gave them a value superior to gold and silver.[XXXII-14] - -The most beautiful of these tables were spotted or veined to imitate the -tiger’s or panther’s skin; but they acquired an exorbitant claim upon -the admiration of connoisseurs when they bore the marvellous design of a -peacock’s tail. This fantastic play of nature commanded a boundless -price.[XXXII-15] - -An artist of unrivalled talent, Carvilius Pollio, was the first, -according to Pliny,[XXXII-16] who enriched these magnificent woods with -buhl-work of ivory and shell in the acme of perfection.[XXXII-17] Under -the reign of Nero, the Romans dyed this shell, and thought to increase -its primitive value by giving it the tints and accidental shades of the -cedar, the maple, and the lemon tree.[XXXII-18] - -These splendid pieces of furniture were at first square;[XXXII-19] then -round;[XXXII-20] then in the form of a half-circle or half-moon, and -this horseshoe-shaped table they called a _sigma_, from the name of that -Greek letter, which resembled our C.[XXXII-21] The guests whom any -person wished to honour most were placed at the extremities of this -hemicycle,[XXXII-22] overlaid with magnificent covers, which replaced -the skins of beasts, formerly used for their adornment; and, in -addition, they were spread with tissues of fine linen and rich stuffs -elaborately worked.[XXXII-23] - -The tables were changed at each course.[XXXII-24] The Greeks cleaned -them with sponge;[XXXII-25] the Latins used a sort of thick, plushed, -linen cloth.[XXXII-26] - -The opulent citizens possessed a great number of tables; some were of -ivory,[XXXII-27] others of maple wood, cedar of Mount Atlas,[XXXII-28] -or lemon.[XXXII-29][U] Cicero had one of this latter kind of wood which -cost him 200,000 sesterces--about £1,480.[XXXII-30] They rested on one, -two, or three feet,[XXXII-31] and were called monopedes, bipedes, and -tripedes. - -The Romans often changed tables only twice during the repast. Fish and -flesh appeared on the first, and the fruit was served on the -second.[XXXII-32] The same custom was common to the Greeks and the -oriental nations. The Hebrews had also two tables in their solemn feasts -and sacrificial banquets; on one was served the flesh of the victim, and -on the other they placed the cup of benediction, which passed round from -one to another, and was called “the cup of praise.”[XXXII-33] - -The luxury of Rome seemed to revive after she had become extinct. Saint -Rémi, Bishop of Rheims, left to his heirs a silver table, embellished -with figures.[XXXII-34] Charlemagne had three made of the same -metal--the first represented the ancient capital of the world; the -second, Constantinople; the third, every known region of the -earth.[XXXII-35] Aymar, Viscount of Limoges, found on his estate a -treasure, which consisted of a table, round which were seated an -emperor, his wife, and several children--all as large as life, and of -massive gold. Richard Cœur-de-Lion pretended that the treasure -belonged to him as Lord of Limousin, and went to lay siege to the castle -of Chalons, to which Aymar had retired, where the king received a wound, -of which he died the 6th of April, 1199.[XXXII-36] - -Silver tables still existed in the 17th century. Madame de Sévigné -(1689), speaking of persons who, following the example of Louis XIV., -sent their plate to the mint, says: “Madame de Chaulnes has sent her -table, two _guéridons_, and her beautiful toilet of silver gilt.” - -At some distance from the sigma, on a slightly raised platform, were -three kinds of elegant _crédences_ for the cups, wines, and -vases.[XXXII-37] The major-domo himself, generally attended to this part -of the service. - -A very curious old book, cited by Strutt, “_The Booke of -Kervynge,_”[XXXII-38] contains the following instructions as to the -manner of laying the cloth for the King of England:-- - -“Serve your Soverayne with wafers and ypocras. Also loke your composte -be fayre and clene, and your ale fyve dayes olde before men drynke it, -and be curtays of answere to eche persone; and whan ye laye the clothe, -wype the borde clene with a cloute (_cloth_); then lay a couch -(_cloth_), take your feluwe, that one ende, and holde you the other -ende, then drawe the clothe straught, the bought on the utter edge, take -the utter parte and hange it even, then take the thyrde clothe, and laye -it bought on the inner edge, and laye estat with the upper parte halfe a -fote brode, then cover thy cupborde and thyne ewery with the towel of -dyaper; than take thy towell about thy necke, and laye that on syde of -the towel upon thy lefte arme, and thereon laye your soveraynes napkyn, -and on thyn arme seven loves of brede, with thre or foure trenchour -loves, with the ende of the towel, in the lefte hande as the maner is; -then take thy salte seller in thy lefte hande, and take the ende of the - - DESCRIPTION OF PLATE No. XXVII. - - No. 1. Etruscan flat vase, of terra cotta, with a cover, to hold a - particular drink (warm, perhaps). - - No. 2. A marble vase, ornamented, for water. - - No. 3. A metal vase, to fill the cups of the guests. - - No. 4. A Greek Etruscan drinking vase, of terra cotta, in form of a - seated Bacchanal.--“_Hercul._” - -[Illustration: _Pl. 27._] - -towell in your ryght hand, to bear in spones and knyves; than set your -salte on the ryght syde, where your soverayne shall sytte, and on the -lefte syde the salte set your trenchoures; than laye your knyves, and -set your brede one lofe by another; your spones, and your napkyns, fayre -folder besyde your brede, than over your brede, and trenchours, spones, -and knyves, and at every ende of the table set a salte seller, with two -trenchour loves, and yf ye wyll wrappe youre soverayne’s brede stately, -ye must square and proporcyon your brede, and see that no lofe be more -than another; and than shall ye make your wrapper manerly; than take a -towell of reynes, of two yerdes and an halfe, and take the towell by the -endes double, and laye it on the table; than take the ende of the bought -a handfull in your hande, and wrape it harde, and laye the ende so -wrapped betwene two towells, upon that ende so wrapped laye your brede, -bottom to bottom, syx or seven loves; than set your brede manerly in -fourm, and whan your soverayne’s table is thus arrayed, cover all other -bordes with salt, trenchours, and cuppes; and se thyn ewery be arrayed -with basyns and ewers, and water, hote and colde; and se ye have -napkins, cuppes and spones; and se your pottes for wyne and ale be made -clene, and to the surnape make curtesy, with a clothe, under a fayre -double napry; than take the towelle’s ende next you, and the utter ende -of the clothe, on the utter syde of the table, and holde these three -endes at ones, and folde them at ones, that a plyte passe not a fote -brode; than laye it as it should lye: and after mete wasshe with that, -that is at the ryghte ende of the table, ye must guyde it out, and the -marshall must convey it; and loke on eche clothe, the ryghte syde be -outwarde, and draw it streygthe; than must ye reyse the upper parte of -the towell, and laye it without ony grouyng, and at every ende of the -towell, ye must convey halfe a yarde that the sewer may make reverently -and let it be. And whan your soverayne hath washen, drawe the surnape -even; than bere the surnape to the myddes of the borde, and take it up -before your soverayne, and bere it into the ewery agayne; and whan your -soverayne is set, loke your towell be aboute your necke; then make your -soverayne curtesy; than uncover your brede, and set it by the salt, and -laye your napkyn, knyfe, and spone, afore hym; than knele on your knee -till the purpayne passe eyght loves; and loke ye set at your endes of -the table foure loves at a messe; and se that every persone have napkyn -and spone, and wayte well to the server, how many dysshes be covered, -that so many cuppes cover ye; than serve ye forth the table manerly, -that every man may speke your curtesy.” - - -THE TABLE SEATS. - -The Jews originally sat down to their meals; but when they became -subject to Persia they laid on couches at their repasts, like their -conquerors, and other oriental nations, from whom the Greeks and Romans -borrowed their custom.[XXXII-39] The most distinguished place was at the -head of the table, at the extremity of the room, near the wall. Saul sat -in this place of honour.[XXXII-40] Under the reign of Solomon, the -Hebrews still used seats.[XXXII-41] The Egyptians were early acquainted -with the effeminate sumptuousness of table couches. They often placed on -them the venerated images of Jupiter, Juno, and their king -himself.[XXXII-42] - -Before they had adopted this refinement of oriental luxury, the Greeks -sat at their repasts on chairs, more or less costly, but all very -elegant, similar to those which adorn our drawing-rooms, and which have -been modelled from theirs.[XXXII-43] - -Homer’s heroes sat down to table,[XXXII-44] and Alexander the Great -appears to have preserved the custom. That prince giving a repast to ten -thousand persons, caused all to be seated in silver arm-chairs, covered -with purple.[XXXII-45] However, Hegesander assures us that, among the -Macedonians, he who had succeeded in killing a wild boar, reclined at -full length, whilst the other guests remained seated.[XXXII-46] - -Italy always imitated Greece, and, like her, had table couches, which at -first, were only used by men: a feeling of propriety interdicted their -use by women.[XXXII-47] But the relaxation of morals, seconded by -fashion, soon banished this seeming reserve, and the two sexes could -only eat in a reclining posture.[XXXII-48] - -A round, low table, made of common wood, and resting on three legs, was -placed in the dining-room of persons in humble life; the rich had it -made of lemon or maple wood, and supported by a single ivory -foot.[XXXII-49] Three couches at most were arranged round this table -(_triclinium_);[XXXII-50] sometimes two, which Plautus names -_biclinium_;[XXXII-51] and these they covered with purple or other -magnificent stuffs.[XXXII-52] Before they placed themselves, the guests -performed their ablutions and threw off their togas, to substitute the -“dinner robe.”[XXXII-53] They then took off their sandals,[XXXII-54] -and lay down, three or four on each couch.[XXXII-55] The rules of good -society did not allow that number to be exceeded. - -The upper part of the body was supported by the left elbow; the lower -part was extended. The head was slightly raised, and downy little -cushions supported the back.[XXXII-56] When several persons occupied the -same couch, the first placed himself at the head, in such a manner that -his feet nearly reached the shoulders of the second guest, whose head -was before the middle of the body of the preceding one, from whom he was -separated by a cushion; and his feet descended to the back of the third -guest, who followed the same order with respect to the fourth.[XXXII-57] - -When a couch contained three persons, the one in the middle occupied the -place of honour; when there were four, that distinction belonged to the -second. The place at the head of the couch was only offered to the most -worthy, when not more than two persons were on the couch.[XXXII-58] - -Among the Persians, the middle place was reserved for the king. Cyrus -placed on his left the guest to whom he wished to do the most honour, -the next on his right, the third on the left, the fourth on the right, -and so on, down to the last.[XXXII-59] In Greece, the most distinguished -personage occupied the head of the table.[XXXII-60] - -The voluptuous Heliogabalus only made use of couches stuffed with hares’ -down or partridges’ feathers.[XXXII-61] The Emperor Œlius Verus -introduced a more exquisite novelty: he had his filled with lily and -rose leaves.[XXXII-62] The first of these princes--a cruel monarch, or -capricious child, according to his strange whims--amused himself, -sometimes, by placing on a couch, round the sigma, at one time eight -bald men; at another, eight gouty men; one day, eight grey-headed old -men; another day, eight very fat men, who were so crowded together that -it was almost impossible for them to raise their hands to the mouth. And -the brainless dolt shook with laughter at their efforts and their -contortions.[XXXII-63] One of his favourite diversions consisted in -filling a leathern table-couch with air, instead of wool; and while the -guests were engaged in drinking, a tap, concealed under the carpet, was -opened, unknown to them; the couch sank, and the drinkers rolled -pell-mell under the sigma, to the great delight of the beardless -emperor, who enjoyed greatly his _espiéglerie_.[XXXII-64] - -The Celts seated themselves at their repasts on hay, before very low -tables;[XXXII-65] the Belgians reclined on a kind of couch;[XXXII-66] -the Gauls on the skins of dogs or wolves.[XXXII-67] These different -authorities are easily reconciled; for they relate to different cantons -of Gaul. - -The use of couches was not unknown in the middle ages; we find the proof -of it in the _fabliaux_ of the 13th century. We have also the -description of a magnificent repast given by a bishop to two great -officers of Charlemagne, at which the prelate was seated, or lying, on -feather cushions.[XXXII-68] But this fashion was unsuccessful, and -people preferred wooden seats and stools, covered with carpet. When they -gave a great feast, they seated the guests on benches--_bancs_--whence -comes the word “banquet.”[XXXII-69] Henry III. of France introduced -arm-chairs for himself, and folding stools for his suite.[XXXII-70] -Sometimes people eat on the floor. St. Arnold, Bishop of Soissons, took -his repast in that manner on the day of the dedication of a church, -after having had carpets spread on the ground.[XXXII-71] In winter the -banqueting place was spread with straw or hay, and in summer with grass -and leaves. Publicans and tavern-keepers decorated their rooms in like -manner.[XXXII-72] - -The gallantry of the middle ages had led to the adoption of a rather -singular custom, which consisted in placing the guests two and two, man -and woman, and serving for each couple one common dish, which they -called “eating in the same porringer.” Neither had they more than one -cup. In families the same goblet served for all. Saint Berlanda was -disinherited by her father, who was exasperated because, under pretext -that he was leprous, she had washed his goblet before making use of it -for herself.[XXXII-73] - -A passage in Martial would seem to imply that the guests, among the -Romans, laid the cloth themselves;[XXXII-74] that is to say, they spread -on the sigma the stuff, more or less precious, with which it was to be -adorned. - -A somewhat whimsical custom was established in the middle ages of -chivalry. When it was intended to affront any one, a herald, or -king-at-arms, was sent to cut the cloth before him, and turn his bread -upside down. That was called “cutting away the cloth,” and was practised -in reference to cowards and faithless vassals. It is thought that -Bertrand Duguesclin was the originator of this custom.[XXXII-75] - -Mention is made of table-cloths in the life of St. Eloi. They were in -use on common tables; but the costly ones were not covered. These cloths -were plushed and shaggy, as we find by the description of Nigellus, the -author of a poem on Louis-le-Débonnaire. They were of vast dimensions. -In the inventory of certain effects in the monastery of Fontenelle, in -the 9th century, we read of four table-cloths, each of which measured -twelve yards and a-half by two and a-half; another, twelve and a-half by -three and three-quarters; and thirteen, three yards and three-quarters -wide. - -In the 12th and 13th centuries table-cloths were called, in France, -_doubliers_, doubtless because they were folded in two. This practice -was eventually given up; and instead of a doubled cloth, the first was -covered by a smaller one, and removed at the last course. Henry III. -required this dessert cloth to be artistically plaited, so as to present -pleasing designs.[XXXII-76] - -Napkins were much used in Greece and Italy. In the time of Augustus, and -many years after, each guest brought his own, as we bring our -pocket-handkerchiefs. Catullus complains of a certain Asinius, who had -stolen his. Martial brings a similar accusation against a parasite named -Hermogenes.[XXXII-77] - -Napkins were sometimes made of asbestos, and they were thrown into a -brazier to clean them.[XXXII-78] But these rarities were seldom -possessed by any but princes, for asbestos was as expensive as -jewels.[XXXII-79] - -The constitution of St. Ansegisius for the monastery of Fontenelle -mentions plush napkins to wipe the hands, but they were only used before -and after the repast. The town of Rheims was renowned in the middle ages -for the manufacture of table linen. When Charles VII. made his entrance -there they presented him with napkins, “very rich and curious by reason -of the beautiful flowered work.” - - - - -XXXIII. - -THE SERVANTS. - - -All the opulent families had a great number of servants, or slaves, -whose low extraction,[XXXIII-1] the chances of war,[XXXIII-2] or the -parental will,[XXXIII-3] subjected to the caprices of the rich as a mere -thing possessed, a right, a property (_res_). - -They were known, like the slaves of the Jews[XXXIII-4] in former times, -by their ears, which were pierced with an awl;[XXXIII-5] an ineffaceable -stigma, which always reminded the freed-man of his former humiliation. -The slave was also often marked with a hot iron on the back, the hands, -the cheeks, or the forehead; and the characters thus imprinted served -the master as an evidence against his fugitive servant in whatsoever -place he might find him.[XXXIII-6] It is, perhaps, to similar marks that -the prophet Zechariah makes allusion, when he says: “What are these -wounds in thine hands?”[XXXIII-7] Plautus, whose comic vein respects -neither the power of the Gods nor the sanctity of misfortune, calls -these unfortunate creatures “lettered slaves” (_servos -literatos_).[XXXIII-8] - -A house of any note could not do without a crowd of servants, to whom -the steward (_dispensator_) apportioned the labour, the food, and the -chastisements.[XXXIII-9] - -In a lodge near the vestibule was the porter (_ostiarius_),[XXXIII-10] -whose watchful eye observed every one who went in or out by day or -night. They made sure of his vigilance by chaining him to his -place.[XXXIII-11] - -The hall (_atrium_) was guarded by an intelligent and confidential -servant, whose functions raised him above the other slaves.[XXXIII-12] -The _atriensis_--such was his designation--had the care of the arms, -trophies, precious furniture, and books, which adorned this apartment. -He had also to take extreme care of the paintings and wax figures there -preserved from motives of vanity or by a sentiment of respect; and it -was he who carried those images of venerated ancestors before the -funeral procession of the head of the family when, in his turn, death -had numbered him with his progenitors.[XXXIII-13] - -The _obsonator_ bought in the markets the meat, fruit, and delicacies -necessary for the repasts.[XXXIII-14] - -The _vocatores_ carried the invitations, received the guests, and placed -them at table according to their rank.[XXXIII-15] These functions -required a peculiar kind of urbanity and long experience on the part of -the individual who fulfilled them. - -The arrangement, the keeping in order, and adornment of the -table-couches belonged exclusively to the _cubicularii_ -(valets).[XXXIII-16] These servants are mentioned in Suetonius and other -ancient authors. The Cæsars had a great number of _cubicularii_ who -obeyed one particular chief.[XXXIII-17] - -The _dapiferi_ brought the dishes into the dining-room,[XXXIII-18] and -the nomenclators (_nomenculatores_) immediately informed the guests of -the names and qualities of the things with which they were going to be -served.[XXXIII-19] - -The _structor_ arranged the dishes symmetrically.[XXXIII-20] The -_scissor_ (carver) cut up the meats to the sound of musical instruments, -of which he followed the measure. Finally, young slaves -(_procillatores_),[XXXIII-21] served the guests attentively, and poured -out their drink. Those chosen for this employment were fine, beardless, -adolescent youths, with a fresh complexion, whose long silky hair fell -in curls over the shoulders. A wide riband which went twice round the -waist confined their fine, white tunic--a light, graceful vestment, -which descended in front to the knees, and behind hardly covered the -hamstring.[XXXIII-22] - -While the guests, softly reclining on their table-couches, were enjoying -the agreeable surprise reserved for them by an amiable amphitryon, -slaves (_sandaligeruli_) attended to their sandals, and fastened them on -at the moment of departure.[XXXIII-23] Others, (_flabellarii_) armed -with fans of peacocks’ feathers,[XXXIII-24] drove away the flies, and -cooled the banqueting-hall.[XXXIII-25] - -The banquet terminated, servants with torches and lanterns -(_adversitores_) conducted their masters home, and pointed out to them -the stones that might be lying in their path, and which repeated -libations might have prevented their visual organs from -discovering.[XXXIII-26] - -We must not omit, in this nomenclature of the principal servants of a -good house, the taster (_prægustator_), who tasted or tried the viands -before the guests touched them;[XXXIII-27] nor the chief steward -(_triclinarches_), and director of the repast, who had to occupy himself -with an infinity of details in the kitchen, the cellar, the pantry, the -buffet, and the dining-room.[XXXIII-28] - -A living synthesis of these multiplied services, he performed them all -himself. The least negligence, the slightest absence of mind on his -part, would have ruined the reputation, utterly marred the sumptuous -hospitality, of his master. - -Never did the general of an army tremble under the weight of a -responsibility so redoubtable. - -_Procillatores_, or cup-bearer, an officer whose duty was to fill and -present the cup to the king and princes. This charge was known in Egypt, -and the ancients transformed Ganymede into a cup-bearer to the gods. - -Charlemagne had master cup-bearers. These officers signed royal -charters, and kept rank amongst the great officers of state. The head -one took the title of _Echanson_ to the king, of master, premier, or -great _échanson_. In the 15th century the _échansons_ exercised their -functions only on the coronations, marriages, and entries of kings and -queens. Louis XVIII. re-established the office of _premier échanson_. It -was abolished in 1830. - -There was, moreover, a class of miserable, obscure, despised slaves, -whose useful labours rendered them necessary, and who were treated much -the same as beasts of burden. This order of subaltern servants were -composed of:-- - -The _lecticarii_. They carried the elegant palanquin in which the -haughty matron or the noble senator were conveyed to the -banqueting-hall.[XXXIII-29] - -The stokers (_focarii_), who cut the wood, lighted, and attended to the -fires.[XXXIII-30] - -The sweepers (_scoparii_), whose indefatigable activity kept the -apartments and furniture clean.[XXXIII-31] - - DESCRIPTION OF PLATE No. XXVIII. - - No. 1. Procillatores, or _Echanson_, from a painting at - Herculaneum. - - No. 2. Triclinium, from a sculpture at Pompeii. - -[Illustration: TRICLINIUM.] - -[Illustration: PROCILLATORES.] - -The washers (_peniculi_). With a sponge and a cloth they cleaned the -precious tables which adorned the _cœnaculum_, or dining-room. -Sometimes, also, they had to lay the covers.[XXXIII-32] - -This rapid sketch will enable the reader to form a sufficiently correct -idea of the comfort and luxury which prevailed among the Romans, and of -which the Greeks set them the example. It is hardly necessary to remark -that the cup-bearers, stewards, carvers, and other household officers, -whose names belong to modern Europe, perform functions analogous to -those which similar servants performed formerly in Italy. But these last -were debased by the stigma of slavery, and degraded by long habit, -whilst the others were citizens. - - - - -XXXIV. - -THE GUESTS. - - -The Jews and the Egyptians washed the feet of the persons whom they -received into their houses, and offered them larger portions as a mark -of greater honour.[XXXIV-1] These homely and hospitable usages have -disappeared with the simplicity of the primitive ages. - -The Greeks required their guests to arrive neither too soon nor too -late. It was a rule of politeness from which nothing could exempt -them,[XXXIV-2] and which we ourselves observe at this day. - -In the Homeric ages each one received his share of meat and -wine,[XXXIV-3] and the man who at that epoch piqued himself on his -knowledge of the science of life, never failed to offer his neighbour a -part of his dinner. So Ulysses gives Demodochus one-half of the “chine -of beef” with which he is served.[XXXIV-4] It is true that the King of -Ithaca was regarded as a perfect model of complaisance and delicacy. - -Another custom (adopted it is said only in the modern taverns and -dining-rooms) was that of warming the remains of a preceding banquet for -other guests.[XXXIV-5] It must have constituted very poor fare, for the -Greeks were remarkable for a formidable appetite, and their repasts were -prolonged indefinitely. The banquet of Menelaus, noticed by Athenæus, is -a proof of it. They eat at first without speaking, and after prodigies -of mastication they began to discourse. Then, having washed their hands, -face, and beard, a fresh attack was commenced, more formidable than the -first; and when the ardour and energy of the assailants seemed to be -exhausted, they hardly took time to breathe ere they fell on the viands -with renewed avidity. Nothing resisted them; the dishes were cleared; -only a few bones remained to certify their achievement.[XXXIV-6] A -saddening, unsatisfactory trophy for future guests. - -Archestrates, whose gastronomic axioms we cannot respect too much, was -averse to large dinner parties. Three or four persons--five at -most--chosen with care, assembled with taste, appeared to him -sufficient[XXXIV-7] for those solemnities in which silence was to be -maintained so long, under pain, said Montmaur, of no longer knowing what -one eats. - -The Lacedæmonians admitted as many as fifteen guests, but they elected a -king of the banquet, and that ephemeral autocrat decided without appeal -all questions which might have compromised the tranquillity of the -banquet.[XXXIV-8] - -Greater numbers met together in Athens. Plato gave a supper to -twenty-eight of his friends.[XXXIV-9] Hundreds of citizens often met -together at the public repasts; but then a magistrate was deputed to see -that modesty, moderation, and temperance were observed.[XXXIV-10] - -The Romans understood that it is at table that one lives; so they gave -those whom they invited the name of _conviva_ (_cum vivere_, living -conjointly), a charming type of that easy, gentle cordiality which -arises, is fortified, and displayed between those who partake of the -same dishes, drain in friendship cups of the same wine, and separate -with the hope of soon seeing a return of the same pleasures. - -People were very polite in Rome, as in Greece, when they met in the -dining-room. Never did they fail to make a low bow.[XXXIV-11] This act -of Roman courtesy recalls a very pretty expression of Fontenelle’s, -which we cannot refrain from citing. This grand nephew of the great -Corneille passed, on his way to the table, before Madame Helvétius, whom -he had not perceived. Fontenelle was then ninety years of age. “See,” -said she, “what esteem I must have for your gallantry: you pass before -me without looking at me.” “Be not surprised, Madam,” replied the old -gallant; “if I had looked at you I should never have passed.” - -In the year of Rome 570 (182 B.C.), the tribune of the people, C. -Orchius, was the prime mover of the first sumptuary law, which enacted -that the number of guests were not to exceed that of the Muses, nor be -less than that of the Graces.[XXXIV-12] Subsequently seven were thought -to be sufficient, and some insisted that when there were more the -banquet ought rather to be called a rout.[XXXIV-13] - -In the year of Rome 548, the Consul C. Fannius carried a law (_Lex -Fannia_) which prohibited the assembling of more than three persons of -the same family on ordinary days, or more than five at the nones, or on -festival days.[XXXIV-14] This rigorous measure was pressingly solicited -by the rational portion of every order of citizens, who could not -witness without a shudder the whole of Italy plunge into the most -brutifying excesses, after obscene orgies which we dare not -describe.[XXXIV-15] - -But who could dissipate that fearful bewilderment with which nations -seem to be seized when they are about to fall? Rome blushed for her -ancient virtues, and veiled them with dissolution and crimes. She had -exhausted all the prodigies that the genius of debauchery could -invent--she created monsters! - -Ruinous banquets soon revived, and the number of guests had no other -rule than the unbridled desire of ostentation and expense. - -Let us not forget those miserable parasites who managed to get to the -corner of a table in Greece and Italy, and to whom meagre portions were -conceded as a reward for cringing servility, such as the vilest slave -would have been ashamed to exhibit. There were three kinds of parasites. -Some, under the name of buffoons, amused the company with their -grotesque attitudes and ridiculous sayings.[XXXIV-16] Others allowed -their ears to be boxed, and suffered a thousand different torments, -provided a piece of meat or a bone were afterwards thrown to them. These -patient sufferers[XXXIV-17] diverted the Greeks and Romans very much. -The adulatory parasites were the most skilful of these hungry parias. -They were well treated and almost respected. They were persons who -possessed a kind of merit which was always equally appreciated, and to -which we still render justice--they flattered whosoever gave them a -supper.[XXXIV-18] - -An energetic, familiar expression in French often replaces the word -_parasite_, transmitted to us by the Greeks and Romans: that expression, -which conveys the same idea, is _pique-assiette_, an image necessarily -associated with disdain and insult. - -The Count de Gerval had invited to his table several persons of high -distinction, among whom was remarked one of those intruders who find -means to get themselves received, notwithstanding the profound contempt -they inspire. The dessert was just served, and a magnificent pear -attracted the attention of the parasite, who endeavoured to bear it off -on the point of his knife, but, in so doing, he broke a valuable plate. -“The deuce take it, sir,” said the master of the house; “_piquez -l’assiette_ as long as you like, but don’t break it!” - -The guests always washed their hands, and frequently their feet, before -they placed themselves on the triclinium.[B][XXXIV-19] They received -that custom from the orientals, and we find numerous examples of it in -the Old and New Testaments.[XXXIV-20] Perfumes were then poured on their -heads,[XXXIV-21] as among the Jews,[XXXIV-22] and wreaths of flowers -were offered them.[XXXIV-23] - -It was at this solemn moment that the guests turned their attention to -the election of the king of the banquet, whose grave functions consisted -in regulating the number of cups that each one was expected to empty -during the repast.[XXXIV-24] - -Among the Anglo-Saxons, he who wished to drink asked the nearest person -to pledge him. The latter replied affirmatively, and immediately armed -himself with his knife or his sword to protect the other while he -emptied his cup. The death of Edward the Martyr, it is said, gave rise -to this custom. Elfrida, his mother-in-law, caused him to be basely -assassinated from behind whilst he was drinking.[XXXIV-25] - -“The following,” says Strutt, “according to ancient historians, is the -manner in which Rowena, daughter or niece of Hengist, drank to the -health of Vortigern, King of the Britons. She entered the -banqueting-hall where the prince was with his guests, and, making a low -curtsey, she said: ‘To your health, my lord and king.’ Then, having put -the cup to her lips, she presented it on her knees to Vortigern, who -took it and emptied it, after having replied: ‘I drink to your -health.’ ”[XXXIV-26] - -We find in the works of Pasquier an affecting anecdote of the -unfortunate Queen of Scotland, Mary Stuart: “On the eve of her death,” -says he, “towards the end of the supper, she drank to all her -attendants, commanding them to pledge her; the which obeying, and -mingling their tears with their wine, they drank to their mistress.” - -Divers spectacles, of which we shall have occasion to speak hereafter, -occupied the leisure of the guests during the interval necessary to -remove the remains of one course and serve the next. These -representations and amusements, of which they never tired in the middle -ages, received from our ancestors, in France, the name of _entre-mets_; -a designation much more true and just than the modern acceptation -imposed on the word--anything served between the roast and the dessert. - -The _entre-mets_ were interludes, pantomimes, concerts, and even -melodramas performed between each course. So that a piece which in our -days attracts crowds to one or other of the theatres, would have been -then a little _entre-met_, or a cold side-dish (_hors-d’œuvre_). - -In 1287, at the marriage of Robert, son of Saint-Louis, with Machault, -Countess of Artois, very singular spectacles were given between each -course of the banquet. A horseman crossed the hall by making his horse -walk on a thick cord, extended above the heads of the guests. At the -four corners of the table were musicians seated on oxen; and monkeys, -mounted on goats, seemed to play the harp.[XXXIV-27] - -A droll custom prevailed at the court of the Frank kings. St. Germier -having come to solicit some favour from the King of the Franks, Clovis, -that haughty Sicamber received the bishop with kindness, and had an -excellent dinner served for him. The holy bishop took leave of the king -after the banquet, and the king, who sometimes piqued himself upon his -politeness, pulled out a hair, according to the custom of the time, and -offered it to his guest. Each of the courtiers hastened, in his turn, to -imitate the benevolent monarch, and the virtuous prelate returned to his -diocese enchanted with the reception he had met with at the -court.[XXXIV-28] - -Among other amusements prepared for Queen Elizabeth, during her sojourn -at the celebrated castle of Kenilworth, “There was,” says Laneham, “an -Italian juggler who performed feats of strength and leaps, and cut such -capers with so much suppleness and ease, that I began to ask myself -whether it were a man or a sprite. Indeed I know not what to say of that -comical fellow,” adds the artless chronicler; “I suppose his back must -resemble that of a lamprey--it had no bone.”[XXXIV-29] - -In England, during the middle ages, the courts of princes and the -castles of the great were crowded with visitors, who were always -received with sumptuous hospitality. The pomp displayed by the lords was -truly extraordinary, and it is difficult to understand how their -fortunes could suffice for it. They had their privy-counsellors, -treasurers, secretaries, chaplains, heralds, pursuivants-at-arms, pages, -guards, trumpeters--in a word, all the officers, all the servants, with -which royalty itself is surrounded. And besides this numerous domestic -establishment, there were troops of minstrels, clowns, jugglers, -strolling players, rope-dancers, &c., lodged there at the great -banqueting times. Each of the apartments open to the guests presented -spectacles in harmony with the gross taste of the epoch. It was a -marvellous confusion, a prodigious chaos, in which the ear was struck at -once with the sound of dishes, of cups clashing one against another, of -harmonious music, with the bustle of the dance, the notes of the song, -pasquinades, somersaults, and everywhere the most boisterous laughter. -The face of decency alone was slightly veiled.[XXXIV-30] - -Sometimes the term _entre-mets_ was also applied to decorations, which -were paraded through the banqueting hall, and which represented cities, -castles, and gardens, with fountains, whence flowed all kinds of -liquors. At the dinner which Charles V. of France gave to the Emperor -Charles IV. there was a grand spectacle, or _entre-met_. A vessel -appeared with its masts, sails, and rigging; it advanced into the middle -of the hall, by means of a machine concealed from the view of all. A -moment after there appeared the city of Jerusalem; its towers covered -with Saracens. The vessel approached it, and the city was taken by the -Christian knights who manned the vessel.[XXXIV-31] - -Among the Egyptians a funereal idea was made the means of rousing the -erewhile buoyant spirits of the guests at the end of a repast. A servant -entered carrying a skeleton, or the representation of a mummy, which he -took slowly round the dining-room. He then approached the guests, and -said: “Eat, drink, amuse yourselves to-day; to-morrow you -die.”[XXXIV-32] - -Greece, and Rome in particular, adopted this lugubrious emblem of the -rapid flight of time and pleasure. This sepulchral image hurried them on -in the enjoyment of the present: it never revealed to paganism a “hope -full of immortality.”[XXXIV-33] - - - - -XXXV. - -A ROMAN SUPPER. - - -Two lustres had passed since the world obeyed Domitius Nero, son of -Agrippina. The Romans, a herd of vile slaves, docile adulators of the -infamous Cæsar, had already celebrated nine anniversaries of his happy -accession to the empire, and the Flamen of Jupiter solemnly thanked the -gods at each of these epochs for all the benefits that the well-beloved -monarch had unceasingly lavished on the earth. - -Few princes, it is true, ever equalled Nero. He and his mother had -poisoned Junius Silanus, the pro-consul of Asia; subsequently the young -emperor made away with Agrippina, and the senate applauded that horrible -crime, which was only the prelude to outrageous enterprises which -astonish the historian who narrates them. - -The Flamen was, indeed, bound to offer up solemn thanksgivings to -Jupiter for having hitherto restrained the crowned monster from the -commission of evil which afterwards marked his flagitious career. - -It was the 64th year of the Christian era. The emperor had passed some -time at Naples, whence it was thought he would go into Greece; but -suddenly changing his project, he returned to the capital of the world, -to prepare, it was said, a spectacle of unheard-of splendour, and such -as Nero alone could conceive. - -One of his ancient freed-men, Caius Domitius Seba, resolved to celebrate -the return to Rome, and the tenth anniversary of the reign of his -master, who was now become his patron and friend. That man possessed -immense riches, a formidable credit at court, and an insolence which had -struck so much terror into the souls of the proudest families of the -empire, that they had long since humbled themselves before him. - -[Illustration: ROMAN BANQUET IN THE YEAR 64.] - -So that it was no sooner whispered among the Roman aristocracy that the -magnificent Seba intended to give a banquet, than one and all became -anxious to be numbered with the guests of Cæsar’s favourite. - -However, days past, the time for the nocturnal festival approached, and -the Invitor had not made his appearance. - -Among the Hebrews, nothing was more simple and unsophisticated than an -invitation to dinner;[XXXV-1] but, with the Romans, etiquette required -that the amphitryon should send one of his servants to each person who -was to participate in his pompous hospitality. This servant, who was -generally a freed-man, went from house to house, and indicated, with -exquisite politeness, the day and precise hour of the banquet.[XXXV-2] - -Seba’s Invitor was at last announced to the two consuls of the year, -Lecanius Bassus and Licinius Crassus, who accepted with tender gratitude -the distinguished honour which the enfranchised slave deigned to confer -upon them. - -After them the same favour was received with the same gratitude by the -Agrippas, the Ancuses, the Cossuses, the Drususes, and all those who -were the most noble, powerful, and proud in Rome. - -The next day, about two o’clock in the afternoon (the repast was to -begin at six o’clock), an unusual movement reigned in the Palatine -baths, and those of Daphnis, near the Sacred Way. The _mediastini_ kept -up a steady fire under the coppers; the _capsarii_ folded with care the -clothes of the bathers; the _unguentarii_ sold their oils and unguents; -and the _fricatores_, armed with the _strigil_--a sort of wooden, iron, -or horn spoon--rubbed and scraped the skin before the _tractatores_ came -gently to manipulate the joints, and skilfully shampoo the body, which -gained by this operation more elasticity and suppleness.[XXXV-3] - -The upper classes of the Romans never sat down to table until they had -undergone all these preliminaries of minute cleanliness.[XXXV-4] - -The future guests return home, after the bath, to employ the skill of -the barbers (_tonsores_), who are in waiting to give more grace to the -hair, and remove, with the aid of tweezers and pumice, the first silvery -indications of the lapse of years, which, though incessantly effaced, -still re-appeared.[XXXV-5] - -A more serious occupation succeeded. Epicureans should never neglect -their teeth--particularly at the approach of a banquet. Nor did the -ingenious gastronomy of the first century of our era neglect to invent -tooth-powder, which cleaned the enamel without injuring it, and -fortified the gums--those fortresses of mastication. Some persons made -use of substances which no one would adopt in the present day, because -our delicacy revolts against them.[XXXV-6] But preparations less -offensive were employed, and men of good taste, as well as fashionable -ladies, extolled ox-gall, goats’ milk, the ash of stags’ horns, of pigs’ -hoofs, and of egg-shells.[XXXV-7] - -Thus were the teeth equipped, as the comic Plautus has it;[XXXV-8] or, -rather, thus were they prepared to undergo the labour required of them. - -Those who had had the misfortune to lose some of those powerful -gastrophagic auxiliaries substituted false ones of ivory, which art -found means to render absolutely similar to their neighbours. The eye -was deceived: what more could be required?[XXXV-9] - -But the clepsydræ[XXXV-10] and the celebrated clock of the field of -Mars[XXXV-11] announce that it is time to put on the white, light robe, -a little longer than the pallium of the Greeks, and to which the Latins -have given the names of _vestis cœnatoria_, _vestis triclinaria_, -_vestis convivalis_.[XXXV-12] This last part of their toilet finished, -the guests set out for the magnificent abode of their host, preceded by -a few slaves, and followed by their shadows--those hungry hangers-on of -whom mention has already been made, and who strive to obtain, on the -road, a smile or a word by dint of cringing obsequiousness. - -Arrived at the _atrium_, the crowd of Roman nobles are conducted into -the interior of the house by the parasites of Seba. The proud freed-man -disturbed himself for nobody; but, like the opulent Greeks, whom he -aped, he left to these ignoble familiars the care of replacing him in -the honours of his palace.[XXXV-13] - -They enter an immense hall, decorated with unheard-of luxury, lighted by -lustres,[XXXV-14] and round which are several ranks of seats, not unlike -the folding-stools and arm-chairs we meet with in the present day in the -most elegant _boudoirs_.[XXXV-15] The guests seat themselves, and anon -Egyptian slaves approach with perfumed snow-water, which flows from -golden vases of the most graceful forms, and cools the hands of senators -and Roman knights,[XXXV-16] whilst other servants disincumber them of -their patrician shoes, the end of which represents a crescent.[XXXV-17] -The feet then received a similar ablution, and fresh slaves, skilful -orthopœdists, accomplish in a twinkling the delicate toilet of these -extremities,[XXXV-18] and imprison them again in elegant and commodious -sandals, fastened by ribands which cross on the top.[XXXV-19] - -Here and there a few persons are remarked who still wear their togas, -having doubtless forgotten to substitute the banqueting dress. So soon -as the major-domo perceives them he makes a sign to some youths clothed -in white tunics, who hasten to present to each of these guests a -_synthesis_, or short woollen vestment of different colours,[XXXV-20] -which envelopes the whole body, but leaves the shoulders and breast -uncovered if the wearer desire it.[XXXV-21] - -These indispensable preliminaries being terminated, the seats -disappeared, and the guests stood waiting for the freed-man, Seba, who -speedily entered accompanied by the two consuls, for whom places of -honour had been reserved on couches beside their pompous amphitryon. The -latter deigned to address a few words of welcome to his noble company, -and each one stretched himself on his couch of gold and purple. The -fourth couch was given up to the parasites and shadows.[XXXV-22] - -Meanwhile, slaves were burning precious perfumes in golden vases -(_acerræ_), and young children were pouring on the hair of the guests -odoriferous essences, which filled the banqueting hall with balmy -fragrance. Rome had borrowed this custom from the east.[XXXV-23] - -The golden panelling of the hall shone with dazzling brightness as it -reflected a torrent of light from the crystal candelabra,[XXXV-24] and -the melodious sounds of the hydraulic organ[XXXV-25] announced the -commencement of the banquet.[XXXV-26] - -At this signal, servants, richly dressed, place within the circle formed -by the couches lemon-wood tables of inestimable price,[XXXV-27] which -they immediately cover with a rich tissue of gold and silk. That done, -sylph-like hands spread them over with a profusion of the rarest flowers -and rose leaves.[XXXV-28] - -Musicians (_symphoniaci_) then occupy a kind of orchestra or platform, -raised at one of the extremities of the hall,[XXXV-29] among whom the -flute and harp players are to be particularly remarked.[XXXV-30] The -former constitute, among the Romans, a special body dubbed with the name -of _College_, and they have the exclusive right to attend banquets and -enliven the pomp of ceremonies.[XXXV-31] - -These musicians execute a slow, dulcet melody while the slaves are -placing on the tables the statues of some of the principal -gods,[XXXV-32] together with that of the divine Nero, whom a -pusillanimous flattery ranks already with the immortals. At this moment -they also arrange here and there the salt-cellars,[XXXV-33] while the -more meditative of the guests invoke Jupiter, before they give -themselves up to the pleasures of the feast.[XXXV-34] Hardly is this -short prayer finished when joyous cup-bearers distribute charming little -crystal cups,[XXXV-35] which Æthiopian slaves[XXXV-36] fill to the brim -with a generous, honeyed wine, drawn, in the first instance, from those -large pitchers which the Greeks have named _amphoræ_. - -Some drops of the exhilarating liquid are offered to the _Lares_ -(household gods), by sprinkling it in their honour on the floor and the -table.[XXXV-37] This pious libation precedes the entrance of the first -course (_antecœna_),[XXXV-38] composed of the lightest and least -succulent kinds of viands, by means of which a generous host stimulates -the appetites of his guests, as a preparative for brilliant -exploits.[XXXV-39] - -Lettuces, olives, pomegranates, Damascus plums,[XXXV-40] tastefully -arranged on silver dishes,[XXXV-41] serve to encircle dormice, prepared -with honey and poppy juice,[XXXV-42] forcemeat balls of crab, lobster, -or cray-fish, prepared with pepper, cummin, and benzoin root.[XXXV-43] A -little further, champignon and egg sausages, prepared with -garum,[XXXV-44] are placed by the side of pheasant sausages, a delicious -mixture of the fat of that bird, chopped very small, and mixed with -pepper, gravy, and sweet sun-made wine, to which a small quantity of -hydrogarum is added.[XXXV-45] Tempting as these delicate viands may be, -the practised epicureans seem to have a decided preference for peacocks’ -eggs, which they open with spoons. These eggs, a master-piece of the -culinary artist, who presides over Seba’s stoves, are composed of a fine -perfumed paste, and contain, each one, a fat, roasted, ortolan -surrounded with yolk of egg, and seasoned with pepper.[XXXV-46] - -We will not go through the list of all the dishes which composed the -_antecœna_. The nomenclature was offered, according to custom, to the -guests of the rich freed-man, but the reader would doubtless think it a -little tiresome. We must, however, inform him, that the true -gastronomists--and there were many at that banquet--did no more than -give note of preparation to their appetite, by plying it with pickled -radishes,[XXXV-47] some few grasshoppers of a particular species, fried -with garum,[XXXV-48] grey peas, and olives fresh from their -brine.[XXXV-49] - - DESCRIPTION OF PLATE No. XXX. - - No. 1. A Greek Etruscan vase, or amphora, of terra cotta, for wine - and water, commonly placed on the dinner table.--HAMILTON. - - No. 2. A Greek terra cotta vase, for a particular wine.--CAYLUS. - - No. 3. Etruscan terra cotta vase, to hold wine on the - table.--CAYLUS. - - No. 4. A glass amphora, or vase, of large dimensions, for Falernian - wine. - - All found at Herculaneum.--SAINT-NON. - -[Illustration] - -[Illustration: _Pl. 34._] - -The first course was removed to the sound of music.[XXXV-50] Now came -chased silver cups, much larger than those of crystal[XXXV-51]--no doubt -because thirst is excited by drinking. Amphoræ of a secular wine were -ranged by the major-domo on the mosaic flooring of the hall, at some -distance from the triclinium, and they proceeded, by the invitation of -the consuls, to the choice of the _symposiarch_ (or master of the -banquet), upon whom devolved the duty of regulating how often any person -was to drink, and of preventing the guests, in the best manner he could, -from yielding too easily to bacchic provocations, which commonly led to -unseemly gaiety and the loss of reason.[XXXV-52] - -This sort magiric magistracy was obtained by lot, or the unanimous call -for a personage worthy of such a distinction.[XXXV-53] That memorable -evening every voice named the senator Drusillus, one of the most -determined drinkers of the Roman aristocracy. Drusillus smiled, snapped -his fingers,[XXXV-54] and, by the order of his master, thus intimated, a -slave, who was standing behind him, filled a golden crater[C] with wine, -and presented it to the symposiarch. - -Thereupon, the latter, slightly raising his head from the downy cushions -on which it rested, and supporting it from the left elbow,[XXXV-55] -makes a graceful bow to the amphitryon, the consuls, and the rest of the -assembly. Then, with a stentorian voice: “Slaves,” he cried, “bring -wreaths of flowers.[XXXV-56] Fugitive images of the spring and of -pleasure, they shall bind our brows.[XXXV-57] At the same time let -garlands adorn our craters, in which the cherished liquor of the son of -Semele sparkles;[XXXV-58] and let us bestow no thought, during the fleet -joys of the banquet, on the uncertain and fatal hour when Atropos shall -pronounce our doom.” - -This speech, slightly impregnated with the epicurean philosophy so much -in fashion during the reign of Nero, had at least the merit of a -praiseworthy conciseness. Nor did it fail to attract applause from the -auditors, whose brows and cups were speedily adorned with wreaths of -roses, which young boys, clothed in white tunics, arranged with -marvellous art. - -The slight rustling of the flowers was soon drowned by the shrill noise -of the trumpets which announced the second course. A flattering buzz -welcomed this profusion of viands, which encumbered the tables, and -well-nigh crushed them with their weight. There were the -peacock,[XXXV-59] the duck, whose breast and head are so much -coveted;[XXXV-60] capons’ livers,[XXXV-60] peppered -becaficoes,[XXXV-61] grouse, the turtle-dove, the phenicopter,[XXXV-62] -and an infinite number of rare birds, the costly tribute that Europe, -Asia, and Africa, exchanged against the gold of the prodigal Seba. Other -gold and silver dishes contained these inestimable fishes which Roman -luxury brought so much into fashion; the scarus, or parrot fish, -sturgeons, turbots, mullets, and those numerous inhabitants of every sea -with which the tanks were stocked, to supply the kitchen of the -freed-slave. - -Moreover, there were wild boars _à la Troyenne_,[XXXV-63] ranged in the -centre of the table, in silver basins of a prodigious value; stuffed -pigs, quarters of stag and roebuck, loins of beef, kidneys surrounded -with African figs,[XXXV-64] sows’ paps prepared with milk,[XXXV-65] -sows’ flank,[XXXV-66] and some pieces of Gallic bacon,[XXXV-67] which -certain gluttons loved to associate with a piece of succulent venison. - -While the carvers were cutting up the meats with incredible address, to -the sound of a light but animated music, Numidian slaves filled the cups -from small leathern bottles with old Greek wine,[XXXV-68] a servant -carried bread round the tables in a silver basket,[XXXV-69] and others -ventilated the apartment,[XXXV-70] or offered the guests warm and iced -water.[XXXV-71] - -In every direction trays circulated, covered with divers kinds of -meats,[XXXV-72] which they took care to humect with peppered -garum,[XXXV-73] that strange condiment, which the freed-slave procured -from Spain at a price equal to its weight in gold. - -Suddenly the symposiarch commands silence: the musicians obey--the -slaves are motionless. - -“Let us drain our cups,” said he, “in honour of Cæsar. Let us celebrate -the tenth anniversary of his glorious reign, and his happy return to the -metropolis of the world. Let us drink, senators and knights, as many -craters as there are letters in the cherished name of the -emperor.”[XXXV-74] - -Sense and reason must have succumbed, had the patrician assembly toasted -Caius Lucius Domitius Nero: it would have been constructive treason not -to empty twenty-three cups; but they limited themselves to four, which -represented the last of these names. - -Joy unrestrained floated with the fumy wine, furnished from large - - DESCRIPTION OF PLATE No. XXXI. - - No. 1. Curious silver dish, with Etruscan letters engraved around - the head of Medusa. Petronius speaks of two silver dishes, upon - which were engraved the name of Trimalcion, and the weight of each - dish.--ATHEN.; STUART. - - Nos. 2 and 3. Silver dishes.--GORRIE, “_Etruscan Mus_.” - -[Illustration: _Pl. 35._] - -glass amphoræ, on which were these words: “Falernian wine of a hundred -leaves, made under the consulship of Opimius.”[XXXV-75][D] The consuls -and the Roman nobles almost forgot, in the voluptuousness of the -splendid repast, that the executioner of Britannicus and Burrhus, the -crowned tiger, was doubtless thinking at that very moment of taking some -of the heads then present. A funereal spectacle soon aroused their -dormant fears. - -An officer of the palace presented himself at the door of the banqueting -hall. He advanced slowly, followed by two slaves, who laid on the table -an object covered with a winding-sheet. “Pressing occupations,” said the -imperial messenger, “prevent Cæsar from sharing with you the hospitality -of Seba; but he thinks of you, and sends you a testimony of his -remembrance.” - -“Long live Cæsar!” cry the consuls, the freed-slave, and some few -trembling voices. The officer retires. The veil which shrouds Nero’s -present from every eye is removed, and all perceive a silver skeleton, -of terrifying truthfulness, and which, by its admirable mechanism, -proclaims artist to be one of those Greeks who have come to Rome to seek -fortune and celebrity.[XXXV-76] - -This episode engrossed the thoughts of the greater part of the guests, -and the old senator, Lucius Vafra, could not help saying, with a sigh, -to his neighbour, Virginius Rufus, one of the consuls of the preceding -year: “Fear the Greeks: fear this disastrous present!”[XXXV-77] - -But the hot wine which was being served,[XXXV-78] and the healths which -succeeded without interruption, drove the sinistrous presage from their -minds; and, moreover, the present of the emperor was nowise contrary to -the manners of the epoch, and the thought of death would only have -enlivened the repast, if it had been presented by any other than Nero. - -At first healths were drunk in the Greek fashion,--that is, beginning by -the most distinguished personages, he who drank bowed and said: “I wish -you every kind of prosperity;” or simply: “I salute you.” In pronouncing -these words, he who drank the health took only a part of the wine -contained in the cup, and sent the remainder to the guest he had just -designated.[XXXV-79] - -Many craters were then emptied in honour of the mistress of the house -(_dominæ_); neither were the illustrious dead nor absent friends -forgotten. The formula was nearly the same for all: “To your healths,” -said the symposiarch, “to our own, to that also of the friend whom we -cherish.”[XXXV-80] - -Sometimes Drusillus, still fascinated with that dulcet poetry of the -Greeks with which, when young, he had stored his mind, would take up the -harmonious cadences of Horace, and thus personate, as it were, those -divine chanters of Attica who have immortalised themselves by -celebrating love, wine, and pleasure. - -One of his extempore strains, while sipping the sparkling liquor from -his cup, was:-- - - This dream of bliss maintain, prolong these happy hours, - O, all-enchanting wines! perfumed with flowers - Which Cos and Cyprus rear; - Let nothing ever change this soul-felt, rich delight; - For I would say, when parting for the realms of night, - I never knew a tear. - -This sensual philosophy found numberless echoes in that vainglorious -Rome, who exhausted her disdain, outrage, and punishments on the (so -called) new fantastic folly that the Nazarenes were endeavouring to -introduce. A few years more, and their doctrine will subjugate the -universe! - -Time passed rapidly, and the meats, divided into equal portions, were -served to the guests, who frequently did not touch them, but gave their -share to their servants, or sent it home.[XXXV-81] - -So soon as the major-domo perceived that appetite began to flag, he -ordered the whole to be cleared, and the dessert, spread on ivory -tables,[XXXV-82] to be substituted for the more substantial comestibles, -with which the guests were satiated. - -Exquisite drinks, artificial wines, delicate and light -aliments,[XXXV-83] still came to titillate the palate and the burthened -stomach--pears, apples, walnuts, dried-figs, grapes;[XXXV-84] a thousand -different kinds of raw, cooked, and preserved fruits; tarts, cakes, and -those incredible delicacies which the Latins designated by the -collective generic term _bellaria_, wooed the epicurean--if we may be -allowed the expression--with their mild, material, dangerous, and -irresistible eloquence. - -Some one proposed to replace the half-faded flowers by Egyptian wreaths, -and every brow was soon bound with garlands of roses and myrtle, -interspersed with little birds, which, by their fluttering and -chirping, soon restored the drowsy company to that animation which -seemed to wane.[XXXV-85] - -Then began the amusements of the evening. - -A troop of strolling players were admired for their agility and -suppleness. Some rolled round a cord like a wheel which turns on its -axle; they hung by the neck, by one foot, and varied these perilous -exercises in a thousand different ways. Others slid down a cord, lying -on the stomach, with their arms and legs extended. Some revolved as they -ran along a descending cord. Some, in a word, performed feats of -strength and address on the horizontal rope which were truly -incomprehensible, and at an elevation from the flooring which would have -rendered a fall fatal.[XXXV-86] - -To these acrobats succeeded prestigiators, who appeared to receive a -peculiar degree of attention. One placed under cups a certain number of -shells, dry peas, or little balls, and he caused them to disappear and -re-appear at will.[XXXV-87] The spectators strained their eyes without -being able to comprehend anything. Another of these mountebanks wrote or -read very distinctly while whirling rapidly round.[XXXV-88] Some vomited -flames from the mouth, or walked, head downwards, on their hands, and -beat with their feet the movements of the most agile dancers.[XXXV-89] -Then a woman appeared, holding in her hand twelve bronze hoops, with -several little rings of the same metal, which rolled round them. She -danced gracefully, throwing and successively catching the twelve hoops, -without ever allowing any of the rings to fall.[XXXV-90] After that, -another juggler rushed, with his breast uncovered, into the midst of a -forest of naked swords. Every one thought him to be covered with wounds, -but he re-appeared, with a smile on his countenance, whole and -sound.[XXXV-91] - -These feats were followed by an interlude, in which the parts were -amusingly sustained by marionettes. The Greeks knew this childish -pastime,[XXXV-92] and Rome did not disdain it.[XXXV-93] These little -bronze and ivory figures[XXXV-94] played some comic scenes tolerably -well, and obtained the applauses of grave senators, who more than once -forgot their senility as they contemplated the grotesque pantomime. - -The only thing now wanting to render Seba’s supper a worthy specimen of -nocturnal Roman feasts was, to produce before the guests one of those -spectacles which outrage morals and humanity. Nero’s freed-man had been -too well tutored to refuse them this diversion. Young Syrians,[XXXV-95] -or bewitching Spanish girls,[XXXV-96] went through lascivious -dances,[XXXV-97] which raised no blush on the brow of rigid -magistrates, who forgot, in the abode of the vile slave, the respect due -to their age and dignity. - -After the voluptuous scenes of the lewd Celtiberians, blood was -required: for they seem to have been formed by nature to take a strange -delight in sudden contrasts. Ten couples of gladiators, armed with -swords and bucklers, occupied a space assigned to them, and ten horrible -duels recreated the attentive assembly. For a long time nothing was -heard but the clash of arms; but the thirst for conquest animated those -ferocious combatants, and they rushed with loud cries on one another. -Blood flowed on all sides; the couches were dyed with it, and the white -robes of the guests were soon spotted. Some of the combatants fell, and -the rattles announced approaching death; others preserved, in their last -struggle, a funereal silence, or endeavoured to fix their teeth in the -flesh of their enemies standing erect beside them.[XXXV-98] The -spectators, stupified with wine and good cheer, contemplated this -carnage with cold impassibility; they only roused from their torpor when -one of those men, happening to trip against a table, struck his head on -the ivory, and his antagonist, prompt as lightning, plunged his sword -into the throat of his foe, whence torrents of black, reeking blood -inundated the polished ivory, and flowed in long streams among the -fruits, cups, and flowers. - -The deed was applauded; servants washed the tables and the floor with -perfumed water, and these stirring scenes were soon forgotten. A last -cup was drunk to the good genius,[XXXV-99] whose protection they invoked -before returning home. - -Meantime a stifling atmosphere pervades every part of the hall, and a -hollow noise, rumbling in the distance, excites at intervals in the -minds of the guests a sort of undefinable apprehension--the ordinary -presage of an unknown but imminent catastrophe. The consuls raise -themselves on their couches and listen; their host endeavours to calm -their fears; but at this moment a slave, panting for breath, rushes -towards Seba, and pronounces a few inarticulate words. “Fire!” cries the -anguished freed-man. “Where is the fire?” inquire all the terrified -guests, who have heard but this one sinistrous word. “Everywhere!” -replies the slave; “it has burst forth simultaneously in every part of -the city!” No one waits to hear more. Consuls, senators, knights, -musicians, and servants, jostle one another; and, abandoning those who -fall, arrive pell-mell at the atrium. The porter still chained, trembles -at his post; the flames already envelop the sumptuous edifice--the -entire street is one vast brazier! Rome burns, and will soon be a heap -of ruins and ashes! Flight is impossible--the flames intercept every -issue! * * * Nero has taken his measures well. - -We will not attempt to depict the mute but terrible despair of those -proud patricians, at bay in the midst of an ocean of fire, in which they -are fated ere long to perish. The wreaths of flowers which bind their -brows are already parched by the scorching breath of those roaring -flames, which engulf and consume everything as they sweep along. A thick -smoke begrimes the lustrous robes, whose graceful folds erewhile -displayed the exquisite urbanity of Seba’s guests, and which now exhibit -only a sad emblem of festive joys. The dread of death, and I know not -what strange anguish at this all-important moment, blanch those human -faces, to which the choicest wines of Greece and Italy had just given a -hue of purple. These men feel--instinct tells them--that life is theirs -no longer, and they have not the courage to die! - -The opulent freed-man calls to his slaves, and promises them their -liberty if they consent to risk their lives in an attempt to save his. -But the vile herd is already dispersed; the porter alone remains--for no -one has thought to liberate him--and he, in his impotent fury, replies -by insulting clamours to the cowardly supplications of his quondam -master. - -This horrible scene soon changed by the very action of that torrent of -fire which was pursuing its devastating course; and the next day, when -Aurora appeared, a heap of ruins was all that remained of the odious -Seba’s magnificent palace. - -The two consuls and some of the senators were fortunate enough to escape -the common danger. Less besotted, perhaps, by the wine and good cheer, -and finding in despair that incredible energy which sometimes operates -the same prodigies as courage, they rushed through the flames, and -gained the country, or those obscure portions of the city which the son -of Agrippina had apparently forgotten. - -Thus it was that Lucius Domitius Nero celebrated the tenth anniversary -of his glorious reign. While the fire was rolling on with its resistless -flood of flame from temples to palaces, and from the Circus to the -Pantheon, the young, poetic Cæsar, his brow bound with laurel, and -holding in his hands a golden lyre, viewed from the top of a -tower--where he was surrounded by a troop of histrions and buffoons--the -conflagration he had just kindled. - -And while the imperial Apollo sang some melancholy verses on the fatal -destiny of the antique city of Troy, his ignoble courtiers cried with -enthusiasm: “May the Gods preserve Nero, their august son, and the -delight of the human race!” - -Such was the last gorgeous feast at which the magiric genius presided in -that Rome which Romulus had founded, and which engulfed the treasures -and wonders of the world. Destroyed by the imperial incendiary, it arose -from its ashes with increased beauty and voluptuousness; and the wild -joy of its new banquets caused the thoughtless queen of nations quickly -to forget the disasters of the past, and the sinistrous presages of the -future. - -[Illustration: _Pl. 32._ - -NERO. - -HELIOGABALUS.] - - - - -BIOGRAPHICAL NOTES. - - -NERO. - -Lucius Domitius Nero’s father was Caius Domitius Ænobarbus; Agrippina -was his mother. He took the reins of the empire at the age of eighteen -(A.D. 54), and governed at first with clemency and equity. The Roman -people, transported with love for their young prince, indulged the fond -hope of long and unalloyed felicity; but they were soon aroused from -this delusion to a sense of the dire reality. Nero had forgotten himself -in the path of virtue; he rallied by trying his hand at crime, and found -at last his true vocation. Others have recounted his detestable -infamies: we will merely remind our readers that he poisoned -Britannicus,--that he caused his mother to be slain,--that he killed his -wife Octavia by kicking her,--and that Seneca, his preceptor, only -escaped his cruelty by having his veins opened. In the year 64 he took -it into his head to set fire to the city of Rome, and then accused the -Christians of that prodigious atrocity. Language cannot describe the -unbridled luxury of this ignominious emperor. His gilded house, his -ivory ceilings, his murrhine vases, the nets of gold and scarlet with -which he fished, the incalculable profusion of his repasts--everything -connected with Nero betrayed a species of pompous monomania, leading to -excesses so immeasurable and abominable that in these days they excite -doubt or incredulity. - -The entire world detested the monster. Galba and the Roman army revolted -against him, and the pusillanimous Cæsar fled bare-footed, and wrapped -in a sordid robe. But, alarmed at the idea of the tortures he would have -to undergo if he fell alive into the hands of the cohorts and the -people, and finding no executioner more infamous than himself, he -plunged a sword timidly into his breast, while a freed-man, -Epaphroditus, guided his trembling hand. This happy event happened in -the year 68. Nero had reigned thirteen years! - -This prince sat down to table at mid-day, and did not quit it till -midnight (Sueton. in Neron. 27),--he had reservoirs stocked with the -most rare and exquisite fish,--and he gave to his boon companions -suppers which vied in delicacy with their astonishing magnificence. Let -this, then, plead our excuse for having classed the cruel but epicurean -Cæsar among the high culinary notabilities whose names, glory, or -excesses we record in this work. - - -HELIOGABALUS. - -Heliogabalus (Marcus Aurelius Antoninus Verus), son of Antoninus -Caracalla and Semiamira, immortalised himself by his follies, and -merited the name of the _Sardanapalus of Rome_. His grandmother, -Mœsa, had a fancy to have him invested with the functions of Priest -of the Sun, and the following year (218) the army elected him to succeed -Macrinus. He was then only fourteen years old. It would be impossible to -give a complete catalogue of the crimes which stained this precocious -monster. His luxury knew no bounds, and his insatiable gluttony led him -to send into distant provinces for rare birds, unknown in Italy. The -golden lamps of his palace were supplied with a precious balm, and -scented waters of exquisite delicacy were daily renewed in the vast -piscina of this beardless Cæsar. His beds were adorned with coverlets of -a cloth of gold, and in his kitchens none but skilfully chased silver -utensils were employed. It is said that Heliogabalus invented -after-dinner lotteries: his guests took the tickets at random, and fate -gave to one some vase of inestimable value, to another a simple -toothpick; a fortunate adventurer would receive for his allotment ten -elephants, richly caparisoned, and his less lucky neighbour had to -content himself with ten flies, and loud bursts of laughter from the -imperial stripling. - -Thank Heaven! this frightful phenomenon of turpitude and folly never -attained manhood. The soldiers of his guard massacred him after a reign -of something less than four years, and threw to the populace the dead -body of a young man of eighteen, who, in the course of his brief -existence, had exhausted the treasures of the empire, and enlarged the -sphere of every crime. - -The gastronomic art is, however, indebted to the odious Heliogabalus for -some useful discoveries, and for that reason alone is he here mentioned. - - -EPICURUS. - -Epicurus--born 337 years B.C., in the market-town of Gargettus, near -Athens--taught in his gardens a system of philosophy, which, though -indulgent towards the requirements of the senses, possessed the merit of -a sovereign disdain for every kind of superstition. Epicurus had a great -number of disciples among the ancient pagans, and the sensual philosophy -of modern times hails him as a patron. At this very day the dainty -livers rally under the joyous banner of the moralist of Gargettus, and -his cherished shade inspires the guests and presides over the soothing -intoxication of banquets. - - - - -MODERN BANQUETS.[E] - - -We have endeavoured to describe in the preceding pages some of those -antique entertainments, which seem to be the summum bonum of the -gigantic power of those shameless dominators of the Roman empire, whose -reigns might be counted as so many banquets, and for whom the entire -world was transformed into one vast market. - -We are reduced to despair when we attempt to depict such sensualism, and -we also despair of inspiring belief. When one goes back into those old -pagan times,--when one shuts out the world as it is, to evoke the -manners and customs of days gone by, and breathe in their -atmosphere,--the mind experiences a sort of stupefaction, so much is it -immersed in the senses, so thick is the moral darkness, so low has man -fallen! - -And, as if it had been decreed that everything should concur to -consummate the annihilation of the human species, on the one hand, -almost the whole family of man was, for the first time since their -dispersion, collected into one body under the Roman domination, which -spread its corruption throughout the several members; while, on the -other hand, the hordes of barbarians who pressed round--like ferocious -beasts waiting till the arena opened--were about to over-run the earth, -in the absence of any civilising element that could interpose to stay -the destruction, by snatching the conquered from the hands of victory, -and the conquerors themselves from their own ferocity. - -It belongs not to us to portray this fearful cataclysm, this sudden -transition from the development of all the arts which perpetuate the -enjoyments of life to the profound ignorance, the savage rudeness, which -the northern conquerors imposed on enslaved Europe. - -The fifth was the last century of Rome. It was then that barbarism -became everywhere victorious. The Vandals were masters of Africa, the -Lombards of Italy, the Visigoths of Spain, the Franks of Gaul. -Literature followed the destiny of the empire, and seemed to perish at -the same time. It is, however, impossible for nations not to receive, as -an inheritance from people civilised before themselves, a great part of -their intellectual cultivation. Happily modern Europe was swayed by this -law: the barbarians reduced Rome by the force of arms,--Rome triumphed -in the long run over the barbarians by the genius of civilisation and -her arts. - -It is known that even after the introduction of vulgar idioms, the -learned of the middle ages continued the use of Latin, and that in the -15th century that beautiful language, purified from barbarian -corruptions, became once more classic, particularly in Italy. - -At that epoch, an obscure inhabitant of Mentz, John Guttenberg, -immortalised himself by the discovery of printing, just as the love of -antiquity was causing the old literary masterpieces to be sought out, -and creating a demand for copies of the manuscripts. - -Then, as if they had risen from their tombs after a thousand years of -forgetfulness, all the writers of antiquity re-appeared, to charm, -instruct, and renovate the world. - -It was the era of regeneration, when you, O, beloved masters! Pliny, -Apicius, Petronius, Athenæus,--and you, ingenuous and faithful -chroniclers of the gastronomic follies of the people-king,--were -resuscitated in all your glory! Others instructed the universe in -philosophy, eloquence, and history,--you taught man how the ancients -dined; and, thanks to your lessons, our fathers began to comprehend -that, since the table is the great scene of life where bonds of -friendship are formed and cemented, banqueting is indispensable to the -prosperity of nations. - -No one will accuse us, we hope, of endeavouring to establish a paradox -for which we could hardly find an excuse, in our love of the culinary -art, as long experience, and public facts within the memory of all, -victoriously confirm our assertion. - -Let us interrogate the 19th century. Hardly had the lamentable wars -which divided the nations of Europe ceased,--hardly had the vibration of -the last cannon-shot died away,--when the people of every clime--too -long disunited--sealed by fraternal banquets their tardy but frank -reconciliation. The destructive genius of war is succeeded by those -grand struggles of commerce and industry, which, aided by the arts and -sciences of civilisation, dispense to all the blessing of reproductive -wealth. - -And then dinner is the _sine quâ non_,--to that goal all our efforts -tend. The Englishman dines in Paris, the Frenchman dines in London; the -time-honoured national dishes become cosmopolite, like those who dwell -on the banks of the Thames or the Seine; on both sides the people are -proud to communicate the arcana of those delicate preparations, which -have only to cross the frontier to obtain, under a favourable sky, a -more ample illustration and a new right of citizenship. Appetite, the -roasting-jack,--in a word, gastronomy, serves perhaps to unite men much -more firmly than motives of interest; and more than one thought useful -to the human species has often originated in the midst of the creative -excitement of a banquet, where, to say the least, we meet with that -hearty goodwill and friendly aid which might be wanting elsewhere. - -Shall we mention that prodigious enterprise with which a noble -prince--the enlightened protector of industry and the arts, and so -worthy of our love and respect--has deigned to couple a name dear to -public gratitude? - -The royal plan was nothing less than this: to erect an immense, costly, -and sumptuous palace, in which each nation should deposit the material -proofs of its intelligence. Neither Rome nor Greece ever conceived such -a thought! Louis XIV., with all his magnificence, and the magic pomp of -his reign, imagined nothing equal to it! - -This great and complex idea struck many persons no doubt with surprise; -but England--we must do her the justice which facts prove to be her -due--is always ready to undertake impossibilities, and generally -performs them. - -However, it was necessary to bring together a certain number of -influential, scientific, patriotic, and wealthy men, and obtain their -co-operation to realise that modern arch of crystal, into which the -industry of the world would be summoned to send its most marvellous -productions. Banquets were proposed, and banquets took place, in honour -of a prince who was about to connect all parts of the globe in the bands -of commercial fraternity. The Lord Mayor of the city of London--that -celebrated factory of the world’s trade!--invited all the mayors of the -three kingdoms to come and place themselves by the side of the august -spouse of their sovereign, at a feast worthy of such guests by its -delicate profusion and splendid magnificence. There his Royal Highness -Prince Albert received the enthusiastic assurance of the realisation of -a colossal project, a philanthropic thought,--the union of nations, by -rousing the noble pride of their nationality! - -In their turn, the mayors of Great Britain and Ireland were desirous of -offering to the Lord Mayor of the city of London a banquet, at which his -Royal Highness would be present; and this feast, a grandiose and -sympathetic demonstration on the part of the votaries of the memorable -London Exhibition, took place the 25th October, 1850, in the gothic -Guildhall of York, where remembrance of the past was blended with hopes -for the future. - -It was resolved to intrust us with the direction of the gastronomic -department, and, let us add, the artistic arrangement of that banquet, -which, by reason of its unprecedented richness and truly magic aspect, -no pen can describe, owing partly to the magnificence of the maces, -swords, banners, &c., of each county being for the first time displayed -under the same roof. The engraving which we present to our readers[F] -will perhaps convey an idea of a portion of the splendour of the -entertainment. - -The guests at the royal table consisted of the following distinguished -personages: - -The Lord Mayor of York being in the chair, there were seated on his -right his Royal Highness Prince Albert, his Grace the Archbishop of -York, Earl Fitzwilliam, Lord John Russell, Earl Minto, Lord Overstone, -Lord Beaumont, and the Right Honourable Sir Charles Wood. On his -Lordship’s left were the Lord Mayor of London, the Marquis of -Clanricarde, the Earl of Carlisle, the Earl of Abercorn, Lord Feversham, -the Earl Granville, the High Sheriff of Yorkshire, the Right Honourable -Sir G. Grey, Bart., and Sir J. V. Johnstone, Bart. - -As this table formed a prominent feature in the entertainment, the -following distinct bill of fare was provided:-- - - -BILL OF FARE FOR THE ROYAL TABLE. - - FIRST COURSE. - - [Sidenote: Rissolettes à la Pompadour.] - - [Sidenote: Rissolettes à la Pompadour.] - - _Trois Potages._ _Trois Poissons._ - - Potage à la Victoria. Turbot à la Mazarine. - Id. à la Prince of Wales. Rougets à l’Italienne Blanche. - Id. Tortue Transparente. John Dory à la Marinière. - - _Trois Relevés._ - - L’Extravagance Culinaire à l’Alderman.[G] - Chapons à la Nelson. - Quartier d’Agneau de Maison à la Sévigné. - - [Sidenote: Venison.] - - [Sidenote: Venison.] - - _Quatre Flancs._ - - Timballe de Riz à la Royale. - Jambon à la York. - Vol au vent à la Talleyrand. - Cannetons Canaris, Macédoine de Légumes. - - _Six Entrées._ - - Sauté de Faisans au fumet de Gibier. - Blancs de Volaille à la York Minster. - Turbans de Quenelles de Lapereaux aux Truffes. - - Côtelettes de Mouton à la Réforme. - Riz de Veau à la Palestine. - Filets de Canneton à la Séville. - - - SECOND COURSE. - - _Trois Rôtis._ - - Paon à l’ancienne Rome garni d’Ortolans. - Bécasses aux Feuilles de Céleri. Guillenôts des Ardennes. - - _Dix Entremets._ - - Crême de la Grande Bretagne à la Victoria. - Galantine d’Oisons à la Volière. - Gelée de Fraises Françaises à la Fontainebleau. - Mireton de Homard. - Tartelettes pralinées aux cerises de Montmorency. - - Crême de la Grande Bretagne à l’Albert. - Salade de Grouse à la Soyer. - Chartreuse de Fruits aux Pêches. - Gâteaux crêmants à la Duke of York. - Rocailles aux Huîtres gratinées à l’Ostend. - - - [sidenote: Légumes à la Française. - Petite Pois Verts.] - - [sidenotnote: Légumes à la Française. - Grosses Asperges à - l’Américaine.] - - _Trois Relevés._ - - Hure de Sanglier à l’Allemande en Surprise. - Jambon Croquant aux Abricots. - Paniér de Fruit glacé à la Lady Mayoress. - - _Dessert Floréal à la Watteau._ - - Raisins de Fontainebleau. - Fraises des bois Françaises. - Pêches de Montreuil. - Ananas. - - Raisins Muscats. - Melons. - Bananas. - Compote de Chaumontelle. - - -[Illustration: _Pl. 33._ - -York Banquet] - - -GENERAL BILL OF FARE FOR 248 GUESTS. - - - FIRST COURSE. - - _Trente-deux Potages._ - - Quatre Potages à la Victoria. - Quatre Id. à la Prince of Wales. - - Huit Potages à la Tortue Transparente. - Seize Id. à la Moderne. - - _Trente-deux Poissons._ - - Huit Turbots à la Mazarin. - Huit Truites Saumonées à la Marinière. - - Huit Filets de Merlans à la Crême. - Huit Crimp Cod aux Huîtres. - - - _Trente-deux Relevées._ - - Six Chapons à la Nelson. - Six Saddleback de Mouton Gallois. - Quatre Aloyaux de Bœuf au Raifort. - Six Haunches de Venaison. - - Six Quartiers d’Agneau de Maison à la Sévigné. - Quatre Dindonneaux en Diadême. - - - _Trente-deux Flancs._ - - Huit Jambons à la York. - Huit Poulardes à la Russe. - - Huit Timballes de Riz à la Royale. - Huit Pâtés chauds à la Westphalienne. - - - _Quarante-huit Entrées._ - - Huit Sautés de Faisans au fumet de Gibier aux Truffes. - Huit de Côtelettes de Mouton à la Vicomtesse. - Huit de Blancs de Volaille à la York Minster. - Huit de Riz de Veau à la Palestine. - Huit de Rissolettes de Volaille à la Pompadour. - Huit de Salmi de Gibier à la Chasseur. - - - SECOND COURSE. - - _Quarante Rôtis._ - - Huit de Perdreaux aux feuilles de Céleri. - Huit de Faisans bardés au Cresson. - Six de Cannetons au jus d’Oranges. - - Six de Grouses à l’Ecossaise. - Six de Levreaux au jus de Groseilles. - Six de Bécasses et Bécassines au jus. - - - _Cent Entremets._ - - Dix Chartreuses de Pêches. - Dix Gelées de fraises Françaises à la Fontainebleau. - Dix Salades de Grouses à la Soyer. - Dix Galantines Aspiquées à la Volière. - Dix Crêmes transparentes au Kirchenwasser. - - Dix Crevettes au Vin de Champagne. - Dix Gâteaux crêmants à la Duke of York. - Dix Petites Macédoines de fruit cristallisée. - Dix Mirotons de Homard aux Olives. - Dix Tartelettes prâlinées aux Cerises de Montmorency. - - - _Vingt Relevées._ - - Dix paniers de Fruits Glacés à la Lady Mayoress. - Dix Jambons en Surprise à l’Ananas. - - _Side Table--Vegetables._ - - Céleri à la Crême. - Choux Fleurs au beurre. - Haricots Verts. - Choux de Bruxelles. - - Céleri à la Crême. - Choux Fleurs au beurre. - Sea Kale. - Choux de Bruxelles. - - - _Grand Dessert Floréal à la Watteau._ - -_L’Extravagance Culinaire à l’Alderman, or the One Hundred Guinea -Dish._--The opportunity of producing some gastronomic phenomenon for the -royal table on such an occasion as the York Banquet was irresistible; -accordingly, the following _choice morsels_ were carefully selected from -all the birds mentioned in the general bill of fare, to form a dish of -delicacies worthy of his Royal Highness and the noble guests around him. - -The extravagance of this dish, valued at one hundred guineas, is -accounted for, by supposing, that if an epicure were to order a similar -one for a small party, he would be obliged to provide the undermentioned -articles, viz.: - - At the cost of - £ _s._ _d._ - 5 Turtle heads, part of fins, and green fat 34 0 0 - 24 Capons, the two small _noix_ (nuts) from - each side of the middle of the back only used, - being the most delicate part of every bird 8 8 0 - 18 Turkeys, the same 8 12 0 - 18 Fatted pullets, the same 5 17 0 - 16 Fowls, the same 2 8 0 - 10 Grouse 2 5 0 - 20 Pheasants, _noix_ only 3 0 0 - 45 Partridges, the same 3 7 0 - 6 Plovers, whole 0 9 0 - 100 Snipes, _noix_ only 5 0 0 - 3 Dozen Quails, whole 3 0 0 - 40 Woodcocks, _noix_ only 8 0 0 - 3 Dozen Pigeons, the same 0 14 0 - 6 Dozen Larks, stuffed 0 15 0 - Ortolans from Belgium 5 0 0 - The _garniture_, consisting of cockscombs, - truffles, mushrooms, crawfish, olives, American - asparagus, _croustades_ (paste crust), - sweetbreads, _quenelles de volaille_ - (strips or slices of fowl), green mangoes, - and a new sauce 14 10 0 - -------------- - £105 5 0 - -In order to present to the reader the striking contrast of extravagance -in ancient and modern cookery, we here give an engraving of the -celebrated Roman dish (Wild Boar à la Troyenne) described in page 185. -It appears to have been one of those extraordinary efforts of genius -which the artist could only produce under the sanction of a lavish -patron. It was a veritable _tour-de-force_, and, no doubt deserved the -commendation it received, not only because it was of colossal size, and -the good taste displayed, but also on account of the various culinary -delicacies of which it was composed. We have no account of the cost of -such a dish, but, judging from the excessive prices given in ancient -times for all _recherché_ articles at the tables of the great, it must -have been enormous. - -We will now resume our description of the York Banquet. In front of -the - -[Illustration: _Pl. 34._ - -WILD BOAR A LA TROYENNE. - -EXTRAVAGANCE CULINAIRE A L ALDERMAN] - -[Illustration: _Pl. 35_ - -LORD MAYOR OF YORK’S CUP. - -HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS PRINCE ALBERT’S CUP. - -LORD MAYOR OF LONDON’S CUP.] - -principal table, on a raised platform, covered with purple cloth, was a -collection of maces, swords, &c., estimated by competent judges to be -worth £12,000. - -The most conspicuous ornament was placed immediately behind the great -circular table; it was designed by the author, and is represented in the -accompanying engraving. It consisted of a large emblematic vase, twenty -feet in height, painted and modelled by Mr. Alfred Adams. Around the -base are Europe, Asia, Africa, and America, presenting specimens of -industry to Britannia. From the centre of the base springs a palm tree, -surrounded by the arms of the cities of London and York; medallion -portraits of her Majesty and Prince Albert, encircled by the shields of -the principal cities and towns of the United Kingdom, form the body of -the vase; two figures of Ireland and Scotland the handles; the Prince of -Wales’s emblem the neck, and the royal arms the apex. Appended were -graceful wreaths of flowers, in which the symbols of the Houses of York -and Lancaster (red and white roses) predominated; and when a brilliant -flood of gaslight, aided by powerful reflectors, was thrown upon this -splendid decoration, the effect was truly magnificent. - -Having illustrated this volume with a murrhine vase, belonging to the -House of Brunswick, and a curiously worked crystal cup, as gems of -ancient production, we give here, as modern works of art, an engraving -representing three superb drinking cups,--one for his Royal Highness -Prince Albert, and one each for the Lord Mayors of London and York: the -first is in ruby glass, a portion of the stem and base internally -checquered with silver, and on the sides bearing white sunken medallions -of her Majesty and the Prince Consort, and the royal arms of England. -The other two cups were of the same size and shape, but, instead of -being ruby and silver, the colours were emerald and silver; and on the -sides were the private arms of each of the Lord Mayors, together with -the usual heraldic emblazonments of the cities of London and York -respectively. They were presented by the author of this work in the name -of the Patent Silvered-Glass Company. - -This banquet was of so interesting a nature, that we could not omit -giving some particulars of it in this work; at all events, the pomp and -splendour of modern times, as far as banqueting is concerned, must prove -that--from the Greeks and Romans, down to the middle ages--we have not -been exceeded, except, perhaps, in waste and extravagance. - -The national entertainments given within the last fifty years, to -commemorate striking events, are too fresh in our memory to pass them in -silence. - -Many persons can still remember the coronation of the Emperor Napoleon -in 1805. On that occasion a grand banquet was given to all the -dignitaries of the Empire and their ladies, nothing being omitted that -was calculated to solemnise with sumptuosity such an event. - -In 1810 the city of Paris offered to Napoleon and Maria-Louisa -(Archduchess of Austria) a banquet as extraordinary as it was costly. A -semicircular gallery of the Corinthian order was erected on the whole -square of the Hôtel-de-Ville, where above a thousand guests joined the -festival. - -In 1815 a magnificent entertainment was given to the allied sovereigns -by the city of London, where richness of decoration, massive gold and -silver plate, and profusion of culinary rarities struck the beholder -with wonder. - -At the Coronation Banquet of George IV., in 1820, the old customs and -privileges were ransacked to give _éclat_ to that solemnity, one of the -grandest, and perhaps, the most sumptuous that ever could he imagined in -ancient or modern times. - -In France, in the year 1824, the coronation of Charles X. was celebrated -at Rheims with royal magnificence; the banquet excited the admiration of -all present. At that solemnity the Duke of Northumberland was appointed -Ambassador Extraordinary from England, and few, if any, ever equalled -the liberality of his Grace, or the display he made of his wealth, to -represent and honour his sovereign and country at the court of Charles -X. The fêtes and banquets given by his Grace--and at which the author -was present--were of the most costly if not extravagant description, for -we are told that the expenses of that munificent nobleman were not less -than £200,000. - -The grand banquets and receptions of King Louis Philippe during eighteen -years exhibited too much liberality and splendour to be forgotten; and -at the marriage of his eldest son, the unfortunate Duke of Orleans, -Versailles presented a scene of banqueting and rejoicing unparalleled -since the time of Louis XIV. - -On her Majesty’s visit to the city of London a banquet was given in the -Guildhall, the grandeur of which was scarcely ever exceeded, showing the -loyalty, devotedness, and noble hospitality of the wealthiest commercial -citizens in the world. - -In 1838, at the coronation of Queen Victoria, Buckingham Palace -witnessed a most elegant, chaste, and splendid banquet. The Ambassadors -Extraordinary, sent from all the foreign courts, were not more -conspicuous for the brilliancy of their costumes than the native -nobility who graced the festive-board of the youthful Queen of Great -Britain. - -On this occasion a very elaborate and graceful fountain of massive gold -of about three feet in height and two feet in diameter, was prominent on -the royal table. It spouted four different sorts of delicious wine into -as many shells, from which it dripped into four reservoirs, and was -served to the guests by means of a golden ladle. This fountain can be -seen, with the regalia, in the Tower of London. - -On that joyful day the members of the Reform Club intrusted to our care, -at Gwyrdir House, a sumptuous entertainment for fifteen hundred persons, -on a scale of liberality deserving of the highest praise. - -The marriage of Her Majesty with H. R. H. Prince Albert formed one of -those memorable epochs to be preserved in the annals of banqueting. - -The opening of the Royal Exchange, in 1846, was also one of those -extraordinary days on record, where the Queen of a great nation gave -proof of her sympathy in the prosperity of her merchant-princes, by -presiding over a splendid entertainment to commemorate the -re-establishment of that commercial edifice. - -On the 3rd of July in the same year, his Highness Ibrahim Pacha, son of -Mehemet Ali, Viceroy of Egypt, was entertained by the members of the -Reform Club to a magnificent and most sumptuous banquet provided for two -hundred guests. The author, having full scope to do honour to the -invitation, provided the following liberal selection of gastronomic -dishes, many of which were innovated for the occasion:-- - - -BILL OF FARE. - - _Seize Potages._ - - Quatre à la Victoria. - Quatre à la Comte de Paris. - - Quatre à la Louis Philippe. - Quatre à la Colbert, aux Légumes Printaniers. - - - _Seize Potages._ - - Quatre de Turbots, Sauce à la Mazarin. - Quatre de Buissons de Filets de Merlans à l’Egyptienne. - - Quatre de Saumons de Severn à la Crême. - Quatre de Truites Saumonées en Matelotte Marinière. - - - _Seize Reléves._ - - Quatre de Chapons à la Nelson. - Quatre de Saddleback of Southdown Mouton, rôti à la Soyer. - - Quatre de Poulardes en Diadême. - Quatre de Saddleback d’Agneau, rôti à la Sévigné. - - - Baron of Beef à l’Anglaise. - - Entrée Pagodatique de riz à la Luxor. - - _Cinquante-quatre Entrées._ - - Six de Poussins Printaniers à l’Ambassadrice. - Six de Côtelettes de Mouton à la Reform. - Quatre de Riz de Veau piqués en Macédoine de Légumes. - Quatre de Petits Vol-au-vents aux Laitances de Maquereaux. - Quatre Timballes de Riz aux Quues d’Agneau. - Quatre de Jambonneaux Braisés au Vin de Madère. - - Quatre de Volailles Farcies à la Russe aux Légumes Verts. - Quatre de Pâtées Chauds de Cailles à la Banquière. - Quatre de Rissolettes à la Pompadour. - Quatre de Grenadins de Bœuf à la Beyrout. - Six de Côtelettes d’Agneau à la Vicomtesse, et - Quatre de Turbans Epigramme de Levreau au Fumet. - - - _Seize Rôts._ - - Quatre de Turkey Poult, Piqués et Bardés. - Quatre de Cannetons au Jus de Bigarades. - - Quatre de Levreaux au Jus de Groseilles, et - Quatre de Gros Chapons au Cresson. - - - _Cinquante-quatre Entremots._ - - Six de Gelées Macédoine de Fruits au Dantzic. - Quatre Turbans de Meringues Demi-Glacées. - Quatre de Charlotte Prussienne. - Six de Croquantes d’Amandes aux Cerises. - Quatre de Galantines à la Volière. - Quatre de Mirotons de Homard à l’Indienne. - - Quatre de Salades de Volaille à la Soyer. - Quatre de Haricots Verts au Beurre Noisette. - Six de Tartelettes Prâlinées aux Abricots. - Quatre de Pain de Pêches au Noyeau. - Quatre de Petite Pois à l’Anglo-Francaise, et - Quatre de Gelées Cristallisées à l’Ananas. - - - _Relevés de Rôts._ - - Crème d’Egypte à l’Ibrahim Pacha. - Gâteau Britannique à l’Amiral. - Quatre de Jambons Glacés en Surprise. - Quatre de Côtelettes en Surprise à la Reform. - - Quatre de Manivaux de Champignons au Curaçao en Surprise. - Deux de Meringues Chinoises-Pagoda aux Fraises. - - -We hardly need mention the annual entertainment which takes place on the -9th of November, when the city of London makes a king of a citizen. - -In the course of the year 1844, King Louis Philippe paid a visit to her -Majesty Queen Victoria at Windsor Castle, and during the time a series -of banquets were given in honour of the King’s visit by her Majesty. The -gold plate--worth, it is said, a million sterling--was used on that -occasion. We shall not attempt to describe the extraordinary beauty of -that service: the value in itself must leave the impression that nothing -like it is in existence. - -In the year 1848 the return of Lord Hardinge, Governor-General of India, -from his glorious campaigns in the East, was solemnised by a sumptuous -banquet offered to his lordship by the members of the Carlton Club. - -In the year 1850 the annual meeting of the Royal Agricultural Society -was held in the fine old city of Exeter, where the Society was welcomed -with the most enthusiastic rejoicings, and we had the honour of being -selected by the committee to provide a dinner for one thousand and fifty -members. As this rustic banquet was admitted to be one of no ordinary -kind we give here the general bill of fare, and a short narrative of the -first attempt to roast a whole ox by gas. - - -GRAND AGRICULTURAL PAVILION DINNER. - -[Sidenote: Baron of Beef à la Magna Charta.] - - 33 Dishes of Ribs of Beef. - 35 Dishes of Roast Lamb. - 99 Dishes of Galantine of Veal. - 29 Dishes of Ham. - 66 Dishes of Pressed Beef. - 2 Rounds of Beef à la Garrick. - 264 Dishes of Chicken. - 33 French raised Pies à la Soyer. - 198 Spring Mayonnaise Salad. - 264 Cherry, Gooseberry, Raspberry, and Currant Tarts. - 33 Exeter Puddings. - 198 Dishes of Hot Potatoes. - -[Sidenote: Grand Agricultural Trophy.] - -Homer tells us that a royal culinary artist placed before Ajax and his -voracious companions in arms a whole bullock roasted. Since those heroic -ages many no doubt have shared the same fate; and we know that in this -country, on the occasion of a rich heir coming of age, a roasted ox is -often given to the tenants as a substantial fare, with a well-nursed -butt of ale, twenty-one years old. Many can remember that in the winter -of 1812 a bullock was roasted on the frozen Thames, which certainly was -something to wonder at. Another monster effort was attempted at -Hammersmith some years ago, but the animal, clumsily suspended from the -summit of an apparatus formed of three beams, was burnt, emitted a rank -smell, and did not roast. All those who have had to attend such an -operation agree that it is rather an awkward affair, and not performed -without great difficulties, on account of the immense fire, which -requires constant attention to keep up and regulate the necessary -heat,--and, after all, it is seldom entirely successful. - -For the present festival, the author, who knew well the power and -efficacy of gas, wished to honour the guests with a dish of _his own_, -never yet attempted, and which he has entitled the “_Baron and -Saddleback of Beef à la Magna Charta_.” He therefore proposed to roast a -baron and saddleback of beef, weighing five hundred and thirty-five -pounds, in the open air. The magistrates very willingly put the castle -yard at his disposal, and it was anticipated that a large Pandemonium -fire would have been seen; but, to the surprise of every one, a few -bricks, without mortar, and a few sheets of iron, forming a temporary -covering to a space six feet six inches in length, and three feet three -inches in width, were the only appearance of an apparatus, with two -hundred and sixteen very small jets of gas coming through pipes -half-an-inch in diameter. It was hardly credited that such a monster -joint could be properly done by such means; however, incredulity soon -vanished on seeing it frizzling and steaming away; and after eight -hours’ roasting it was thoroughly dressed, at a cost of less than five -shillings for gas. - -After having allowed it to cool it was removed, and carried by eight men -through the principal streets of the ancient and loyal city of Exeter, -accompanied by a band of music, playing “The Roast Beef of Old England,” -and followed by thousands of the incredulous of the previous day. On its -arrival at the pavilion it was deposited under the grand triumphal arch, -designed and erected by the author; it was 17 feet high, and 10 feet -wide, and composed of all the produce of agriculture and the farm. - -The following list will give some idea of its magnitude: it consisted -of-- - -One swan, two turkeys, four geese, four ducks, eight fowls, eight -pigeons, four rabbits, one fine barn-door cock, six ox heads, four -calves’ heads, two rams’ heads, two stags’ heads, two whole lambs--all -natural, and in their plumage or skin--ornamented with vegetables, -fruit, and flowers, viz., cabbages, turnips, potatoes, carrots, leeks, -celery, rhubarb, onions, French beans, peas, asparagus, sea-kale stalks; -sheaves of wheat, oats, barley; pine apples, citrons, cherries, grapes, -melons, peaches, apricots, greengages, apples, gooseberries, -strawberries, currants, and the choicest kinds of flowers--all being the -production of the county--and surmounted by various implements of -agriculture. There was also an elegant jug, ornamented with flowers, -filled with clotted cream. On the top of the huge piece of beef, was -placed a black pig’s head, weighing eighty pounds when killed. - -It was in the recollection of many persons, that thirty-five years ago a -baron of beef, weighing only two hundred and forty-two pounds was -roasted in Exeter, under the superintendence of twelve blacksmiths, at -their forge fire, for a banquet given at the time peace was proclaimed. - -The Parisians have not forgotten the great fête of the distribution of -eagles by his Majesty the Emperor of the French, on that day when he -relinquished the functions of President of the Republic for a more -august title. That military solemnity was followed by a splendid -banquet, at which there were several thousands of guests. It would be -superfluous to add, that the arrangements for that gigantic repast -evinced the intelligent taste and incredible resources of imagination of -our continental neighbours. - -An entire volume would not suffice, if we attempted to recount all the -pompous feasts which followed in succession during the last century, -“the age of powder and suppers.” But we cannot pass in silence the -memorable punch given in 1746 by Sir Edward Russell, Commander-in-Chief -of the British forces, which can only be assimilated in point of -extravagance to the great banquet of the Earl of Warwick, the -description of which was extracted from the “Gastronomic Regenerator,” -and reproduced in this work, page 362. - -The bowl was the marble basin of a delightful garden, forming the -central point of four vast avenues, bordered with orange and lemon -trees. A magnificent collation was served on four immense tables, which -occupied the whole length of the several avenues. The basin had been -filled with four large barrels of brandy, eight barrels of filtered -water, twenty-five thousand citrons, eighty pints of lemon juice, -thirteen hundred weight of sugar, five pounds of nutmeg, three hundred -biscuits, and a pipe of Malaga wine. An awning over the basin protected -it from rain, which might have disturbed the chemical combination of the -delicious beverage; and, in a charming little rose-wood boat, a cabin -boy, belonging to the fleet, rowed about on the surface of the punch, -ready to serve the joyous company, which numbered more than six thousand -persons.[H] - -We cannot terminate this rapid sketch, without mentioning that, after -several years of research in compiling this work, we completed our task -on the day following that on which her Most Gracious Majesty the Queen -of England offered the largest royal banquet since her accession to the -throne, to an assembly of kings, queens, and princes, and the flower of -the British aristocracy, consisting of a hundred and twenty guests, on -the occasion of the baptism of his Royal Highness Prince Leopold George -Duncan Albert. This regal entertainment took place on the 28th of June, -and never, perhaps, did the august sovereign display so much -magnificence and majesty. We shall not publish the details of this -imposing banquet; and, moreover, we should inform our readers of nothing -new, were we to tell them of the artistical selection, execution, and -perfection of the bill of fare,--of the richness of the ornaments and -service,--of the royal and feminine gracefulness of the mother, wife, -and queen. “May Heaven grant,” say we, in the words of the immortal -Bossuet, “that the children of this illustrious princess, like a crown -of olive saplings, may cling round her, and grow in virtue, strength, -and renown; may the Ruler of empires throw a halo round the destiny of -the august mother, and show to all that His mighty hand upholds thrones -and protects kings!” - - -FOOTNOTES: - - [A] This lemon-tree wood was a species more precious and more - beautiful than that which we now possess. - - [B] See Plate XXVIII., p. 378, for the triclinium. - - [C] Cup, or _crater_, used by the Greeks and Romans at their repasts, - made either of gold, silver, or earthenware (terra cotta).--HAMILTON, - “_Herculaneum_.” - - [D] See Plate XXX., No. 4. - - [E] The following descriptions of various banquets and bills of fare - are here introduced, in the anticipation that in after years they may - prove interesting, and induce, for the future, culinary artists to - enlarge and preserve those magiric archives. - - [F] For the general illustration of the banquet, see the “_Illustrated - London News_,” of November 2nd, 1850. - - [G] See page 406. - - [H] While thus hastily enumerating some modern banquets, we cannot - refrain mentioning that illusive feast of the most effeminate of - Assyrian kings, the plan of which seems to have been imparted by the - magiric genius himself to our celebrated tragedian Charles Kean. Every - night, Sardanapalus, the sensual king of the too joyous Ninevites, - rising from his tomb, with his twenty-six centuries of renown, seats - himself at table, in order to unveil to us long buried splendours, - and confirm our belief in those sumptuous orgies of which history - preserves to us but uncertain details. - - The admirable works of Botta, Flandin, Layard, and Bonomi, have - allowed the ingenious major domo who presides at these Assyrian feasts - of the 19th century, to invest them with that _couleur locale_ which - would formerly have been sought in vain; and, should the shade of - the voluptuous prince wander amidst the guests seated at his table, - it may still recognise the cup from which he imbibed intoxication - and forgetfulness of his tragic destiny. Altogether, this scenic - representation appears to us the realisation of an extraordinary - dream, and we have been tempted to place this fictitious repast of - Sardanapalus amongst the modern banquets here called to remembrance. - - [I] Since the above was written, my researches have been rewarded - by success, and I have given a complete description of it in this - work.--_See page 269._ - - [J] No less than £52,000, if Pliny really means the grand sesterce, - which everything leads us to believe. - - [K] Smallage, a species of parsley, known by the name of celery, is - diuretic and aperitive. The celery, as cultivated now, is derived from - the smallage. - - [L] It is a question whether they could compete in quality with those - caught in the Severn at the present day. - - [M] This paper did not resemble our own of the present day; it was a - kind of papyrus, which perfectly resisted all moisture. - - [N] Pie of meat and flour. - - [O] See Plate No. XXVII., No. 4., a plain bottle, with a long neck. - - [P] A pound of honey to three pounds of water. - - [Q] We are not aware that any of our dramatic authors ever gave such - proof of generosity after a triumph as did the poet, Ion. Crowned at - Athens, after the representation of a tragedy, he made a present to - each Athenian of a vase filled with wine of Chios.--“_Athen._,” I., 5. - - [R] _Fat meat_, according to the vulgate. - - [S] Dinner given by the Earl of Warwick, at the installation of an - Archbishop of York, in the year 1470. - - [T] Imperial, a gold coin, current in Russia. The Imperial of ten - roubles (1755) was worth nearly £2 2s. 0d. - - [U] This lemon-tree wood was a species more precious and more - beautiful than that which we now possess. - - [V] A grand banquet was held by the Royal Agricultural Society, at - Exeter, on July 20th, 1850, for description of which see end of volume. - - [W] Apicius composed the œnogarum (or rather eleogarum, for wine is - not mentioned in his recipe) in the following manner: bruise, in a - mortar, pepper, alisander, coriander, and rue; then add some garum, - honey, and a little oil.[IX-119] - - [X] The word Ox--_Bos_--is a general term applied equally by sacred - and profane writers to the bull, ox, and cow.--VALLA, lib. iv., cap. - 42. It would appear that the castration of bulls originated with the - Greeks, though they and the Romans, their imitators, saw only in this - operation the facility of subduing them, and accustoming them to the - yoke.--GEOPONICS, COLUMELLA, PLINY, &c. - - [Y] We saw, in 1836, while at Colne Castle, about one ton weight taken - out of the water in a few hours. - - [Y] A sort of wine, much esteemed. - - - - -TABLE OF REFERENCES - -TO - -Ancient and Modern Writers. - - -I. - -AGRICULTURE. - - [I-1] Plutarch. De Isid. et Osirid.; Ovid. Fabul. lib. v. 6, 7; Aurel. - Vict. De Orig. Gent. Roman. - - [I-2] Genes. cap. ii. 15. - - [I-3] Ibid. cap. iii. 23. - - [I-4] Cuvier, Discours sur les Révolutions du Globe, 6e. édit. p. 171. - - [I-5] Judic. cap. vi. 11, 14. - - [I-6] Ruth, cap. ii. 3, 5. - - [I-7] I. Samuel, cap. xi. 5. - - [I-8] I. Reg. cap. xix. 19. - - [I-9] Guénée, Lettres de Quelques Juifs, tom. iii. p. 23, edit. in - 12mo. - - [I-10] Levitic. cap. xxv. 23. - - [I-11] Diodor. Sicul. lib. ii. § 3. - - [I-12] Aristot. De Republ. lib. ii. cap. 7. - - [I-13] Levitic. xxv. 3, 6. - - [I-14] Mishna, passim. - - [I-15] Exod. iii. 8. - - [I-16] Joseph. De Bello Judaic. lib. iii. cap. 8. - - [I-17] Juvenal. Sat. xv. 10. - - [I-18] Genes. cap. xii. 10. - - [I-19] Ibid. cap. xlii. 1, 2, 3. - - [I-20] Varro. De Re Rustic.; Plin. xviii. 7; Plutarch. In Cæsar. - - [I-21] Plutarch. De Isid.; Tibull. lib. i. eleg. vii. 29. - - [I-22] Fabretti. Inscript. p. 574. - - [I-23] Homer. Il. x. 351; Odyss. viii. 124. - - [I-24] Polydor. Virgil. - - [I-25] Plin. xviii 4. - - [I-26] Aul. Gell. i. 23. - - [I-27] Plin. iv. 3; Flor. i. 2. - - [I-28] Flor. viii. 3. - - [I-29] Columell. ii. 5. - - [I-30] Ibid. ii. 2. - - [I-31] Varro. i. 29. - - [I-32] Encyclopédie Méthodique; Antiquités Planches. - - [I-33] Cato. De Re Rustica, x. xi. - - [I-34] Strutt, Manners and Customs, &c., vol. i. p. 32, fig. vii. - - [I-35] Plin. xvii. 5, 8. - - [I-36] Varro. i. 13, 38; Columell. ii. 5, 6, 9. - - [I-37] Geoponic. xii. 4; Virgil. Georg. i. 81; Plin. xvii. 9. - - [I-38] Cato. cap. xxx.; Plin. xviii, 53; Varro. ii. 2. - - [I-39] Column. Trajan. tab. 83. - - [I-40] Passerii Lucern. Fictil. tab. 9. - - [I-41] Gessner. ii. tab. 32, no. 75. - - [I-42] Mongez. Encyclop. Méthod. Antiquit. Planches. - - [I-43] De Re Rustica, i. 50. - - [I-44] Virgil. Georg. lib. iv. - - [I-45] Plin. viii. 30. - - [I-46] Columell. ii. 21. - - [I-47] Isaias, xxviii. 27. - - [I-48] Herculan. v. 95. - - [I-49] Geoponic. ii. 27, 31; Plin. xviii. 30; Varro. i. 57; Columell. - i. 6. - - [I-50] Dioscorid.; Diodor. Sicul.; Dio. Nicæus. - - [I-51] Id. - - [I-52] Strab.; Plin.; Strutt, Manners, &c., of the Ancient Britons, - vol. i. p. 7. - - [I-53] Strutt, Ibid. p. 43. - - [I-54] Id. Ibid. pp. 43, 44. - - [I-55] Fontan. tom. ii. liv. iii. titre 33, p. 1190. - - -II. - -CEREALS. - - [II-1] Tit. Liv. Decad. i. lib. 1. - - [II-2] Plin. xviii. 8. - - [II-3] Cato. R. R. cap. 86. - - [II-4] Virgil. Georgic. i. 210. - - [II-5] II. Samuel, cap. xvii. 28. - - [II-6] Sueton. In August. xiv. - - [II-7] Exod. cap. ix. 31. - - [II-8] Virgil. Georgic. i. 216. - - [II-9] Xenophon. De Expedit. Cyri. lib. vii.; Plin. xviii. 7. - - [II-10] Geoponic. ii. 38. - - [II-11] Plin. xviii. 40. - - [II-12] Id. xviii. 16. - - [II-13] Dioscorid. ii. 16. - - [II-14] Virgil. Georgic. i. 153. - - [II-15] Plin. xviii. 17. - - [II-16] Id. xviii. 7, 10. - - [II-17] Dioscorid. ii. 117. - - [II-18] Galen. De Facultat. Aliment. i. 17. - - [II-19] Herodot. ii. 36. - - [II-20] Dioscorid. lib. ii. cap. 3; lib. iii. - - [II-21] Plin. xxii. 25. - - [II-22] Id. ii. 7. - - [II-23] Petron. cap. i. - - [II-24] Plaut Pœn. act. i. sc. 2, 112. - - [II-25] Leg. xii. Tabul. pars ii. L. ix. - - [II-26] Ulp. 50 Dig. t. v. l. 2; Arc. ad. Charis. D. 50, t. iv. l. 18, - § 5; Wolfius, t. v. Oper. Demosth. f. 358. - - [II-27] Samuel Petit. Comment. lib. v. tit. 5. - - [II-28] Plin. lib. xviii. - - [II-29] Dio. lib. xi. 3; Isidor. lib. ult. cap. 14. - - [II-30] Panem et Circenses. - - [II-31] Demosth. In Phorm. - - [II-32] Plutarch. In Cat. Maj.; Cic. in Verrem. - - [II-33] Sueton. In Jul. Cæsar. cap. 41. - - [II-34] Dio Cassius. lib. xliii. - - [II-35] Id. lib. lv. - - [II-36] Sueton. In Neron. cap. 10; Tacit lib. xv. - - [II-37] Spartian. In Sever.; Liv. lib. ii. - - [II-38] Socrat. ii. 10, 13; Sozomen. iii. 6. - - [II-39] Cic. Pro Leg. Manil. - - [II-40] Liv. lib. xxxiii.; Cic. Ad Attic. ep. ix. et seqq.; Varro. R. - R.; Plin. xviii. 7. - - [II-41] Stow’s Chronicles, p. 167. - - [II-42] Fabian. vol. ii. p. 30. - - -III. - -GRINDING OF CORN. - - [III-1] Apud Athenæum. - - [III-2] Ovid. Fast. iv. 399. - - [III-3] Tibull. ii. eleg. 3. - - [III-4] Pausan. In Arcad. - - [III-5] Virgil. Georg. iv. 81. - - [III-6] De Mensura Cibi. - - [III-7] Lucret. v. 14. - - [III-8] Plin. vii. 51. - - [III-9] Encyclop. Méthod. Antiquit. Planches. - - [III-10] Varro. apud Nonnium. - - [III-11] Plin. xviii. 3. - - [III-12] Polyb. i. 22. - - [III-13] Deuteronom. xxiv. 6. - - [III-14] Exod. xi. 5. - - [III-15] Numer. xi. 8. - - [III-16] Pausanias, v. μυλη, Histor. Laconicor. - - [III-17] Homer. Odyss. - - [III-18] Id. Ibid. vii. 105. - - [III-19] Plin. xviii. 11. - - [III-20] Gell. xxxi. 3; Terent. Andr. act. i. sc. 2. - - [III-21] Gell. xiii. 22. - - [III-22] Virg. Georg. i., et ibi Servius, v. 267, 274. - - [III-23] Ovid. In Fastis; Rosin. Antiquit, Roman, iv. 10. - - [III-24] Paschal. Coron. p. 260. - - [III-25] Rosin. loc. cit. - - [III-26] Apul. Milesiar. lib. ix. - - [III-27] Terent. Andria. act. i. sc. 2. - - [III-28] Meursius, Criticar. Exercitat. part i. cap. 9. - - [III-29] Id. Ibid. - - [III-30] Gell. iii. 3. - - [III-31] Vitruv. x. 10. - - [III-32] Plin. xviii. 10. - - [III-33] Vid. Turneb. Salmas, et Perrault, section Vitruve. - - [III-34] Goetzius, De Pistrinis Veterum. - - [III-35] Strabo, Geograph. - - [III-36] De Canone Frumentar, Urb. Rom. L. iv. Cassiodor. Variar. iii. - - [III-37] 5th century. - - [III-38] Decernimus de Aquæductu, L. x. - - [III-39] Anno 536. - - [III-40] Procop. De Bello Gothico. i. 15. - - [III-41] Vitruv. x. 5; Schneider; Palladius, R. R. i. 42. - - [III-42] Plin. xxxvi. 30. - - [III-43] Odyss. xx. 105, 119; Cato. R. R. cap. 56. - - [III-44] Leges Ethelberti. - - [III-45] Strutt, Manners, &c., vol. ii., p. 13. - - [III-46] Apud Strutt, ibid. - - [III-47] Ibid. p. 14. - - [III-48] Heringius. - - [III-49] Monast. Anglic. t. i. p. 316; t. ii. p. 459; t. iii. p. 107. - - -IV. - -MANIPULATION OF FLOUR. - - [IV-1] Montaigne, Essais. - - [IV-2] Genes. xviii. 6. - - [IV-3] Exod. xii. 39. - - [IV-4] Reg. xix. 6. - - [IV-5] Levitic. vii. 9. - - [IV-6] Calmet. Bible, tom. vi. p. 257, fol. - - [IV-7] Waserus, De Antiq. Mensuris, ii. 5. - - [IV-8] Genes. iii. 19.; Exod. ii. 20; xviii. 12; et passim. - - [IV-9] Calmet. loc. cit. - - [IV-10] Fleury, Mœurs des Israélites, chap. 12. - - [IV-11] Ruth, ii. 14. - - [IV-12] Calmet. loc. cit. - - [IV-13] Plin. xviii. 11. - - [IV-14] Exod. xii. 15, 17 to 20, 34, 39. - - [IV-15] Levitic. vii. 9. - - [IV-16] Genes. xv. 17. - - [IV-17] Levitic. ii. 4; vii. 9; xi. 35; xxvi. 26; Calmet. Bible, tom. - vi. - - [IV-18] Genes. xl. 1, et seqq. - - [IV-19] Cassiodor. Variar. vi.; Olai Magni Hist. xiii. 13; Panis a - Pane. - - [IV-20] Cic. Pro Cluentio; Isidor. xx. 2. - - [IV-21] Paître--Manger. - - [IV-22] Nonnius Marcellus, De Prop. Sermon. - - [IV-23] Athen. iii. 13. - - [IV-24] Id. Ibid. - - [IV-25] Id. Ibid. - - [IV-26] Id. Ibid. - - [IV-27] IV-Aristoph. Ran. v. 856. - - [IV-28] Galen. De Aliment. Facultat. lib. i. - - [IV-29] Athen. iii. 29. - - [IV-30] Cæl. Rhodig. xxvi. - - [IV-31] Athen. loc. cit. - - [IV-32] Id. Ibid. - - [IV-33] Id. Ibid. - - [IV-34] Id. Ibid. - - [IV-35] Id. Ibid. - - [IV-36] Id. iii. 13. - - [IV-37] Plin. xviii. 7. - - [IV-38] Athen. loc. cit. - - [IV-39] Plaut. Pœn. et Mostellar; Plin. xviii. 8. - - [IV-40] Tit. Liv. Dec. i. lib. v. cap. 48--Florus. - - [IV-41] Galen. De Aliment. Facultat. i. 18. - - [IV-42] Festus; Lactant. Divinar. Institut. cap. 20; Ovid. Fast. ii. - 525. - - [IV-43] Plin. xviii. II. - - [IV-44] Pomp. Sabin. In Moret. Virgil. - - [IV-45] Maximar. C. De Excusat. Muner. L. xii. - - [IV-46] Vitruv. Architect. vi. 9. - - [IV-47] Plin. xviii. 10. - - [IV-48] Plin. xviii. 11. - - [IV-49] Aurel. Vict.; si quis De Pistorib. L. ii.; si cui, Ibid. L. iv. - - [IV-50] Optio, Ibid. L. iv. - - [IV-51] Nulli Pistori, Ibid. L. xxi. - - [IV-52] Ne Quis, Ibid. L. xv. - - [IV-53] Quicumque, Ibid. L. xxii. - - [IV-54] Gell. xv. 19. - - [IV-55] Brod. Miscellan. v. 21; Plin. xix. 1; Columell. v. 10; Petron. - 85. - - [IV-56] Juvenal. Sat. x. 82. - - [IV-57] Ammian. Marcellin. xxvi.; Sueton. In Claud. cap. 18. - - [IV-58] Plin. xviii. 7, 9, 10, 11. - - [IV-59] Id. xix. 4. - - [IV-60] Id. Ibid. - - [IV-61] Gronovius. - - [IV-62] Richard. Gorræi. Annal. Principio. - - [IV-63] Plin. xviii. 11. - - [IV-64] A.D. 75. - - [IV-65] Ovid. Fast. vi., 260, et seqq. - - [IV-66] Pitt. Ercolan. tom. ii. p. 141. - - [IV-67] Gronovius. - - [IV-68] Cels. ii. 18; Galen. De Facultat. Aliment. i. - - [IV-69] Id. iv. 6. - - [IV-70] Ammian. Marcellin. xvii. 17; Senec. Epist. 83. - - [IV-71] Athen. iii. 28. - - [IV-72] Encyclop. Méthodiq. Antiquités. - - [IV-73] Plaut. Aulul. act. ii. sc. 9, ver. 4; Plin. xviii. 11. - - [IV-74] Encyclop. Méthod. Antiq. - - [IV-75] Ibid. - - [IV-76] Ibid. - - [IV-77] Strutt, loc. cit. - - [IV-78] Delamarre, Traité de la Police. - - [IV-79] Réglement du 20 Mars, 1635. - - [IV-80] Monteil. Hist. des Français, tom, ii., pp. 47, 48. - - -V. - -FRUMENTA. - - [V-1] Servius. - - [V-2] Theophrast. ex versione Gazæ. - - [V-3] Hippocrat. De Victûs Ration.; Galen. De Aliment. Facult. lib. i. - - [V-4] Plin. xviii. 7; xx. 25; Bruyerin. v. 7; et seqq. - - [V-5] Deuteron. viii. 8. - - [V-6] II. Samuel, xvii. 28. - - [V-7] Paralipomen. ii. 9. - - [V-8] Sueton. In August. cap. 14. - - [V-9] Theophrast.; Menand.; Plin. xviii. 7. - - [V-10] Galen. De Aliment. Facultat. lib. i. - - [V-11] Id. Ibid. - - [V-12] Athen. iii. 36. - - [V-13] Bruyerin. v. 6. - - [V-14] Hippocrat. De Victus Ratione. - - [V-15] Id. Ibid. - - [V-16] Plin. xviii. 17; Villichius, cap. xii. - - [V-17] Colman, Lexicon; Meursius. - - [V-18] Cato. R. R. cap. lxxxvi. - - [V-19] Galen. De Aliment. Facultat. i. 17; Bruyerin. v. 21. - - [V-20] Varro. De Ling. Lat.; Columell. ii. - - [V-21] Virgil. Georg. lib. iv. - - [V-22] Plin. xviii. 7. - - [V-23] Id. Ibid. - - [V-24] Dioscorid. ii. 120. - - [V-25] Plin. xviii. 24. - - [V-26] Plin. Jun. Epist. ad Septic. Clar. - - [V-27] Cato. R. R. - - [V-28] Columell. xii. 55; Cato. cap. 86. - - [V-29] Plin. xviii. 7; Bruyerin. v. 23; Galen. De Aliment. Facultat. - lib. i. - - [V-30] J. A. St. John, The Hindoos, vol. i. p. 357. - - [V-31] Martial. - - [V-32] Athen. vii. - - [V-33] Plat. in Gorg. - - [V-34] Athen. i. 13. - - [V-35] Andrieux, “Les rois malaisément souffrent qu’on leur résiste.” - - [V-36] Athen. 13. - - -VI. - -GRAINS: SEEDS. - - [VI-1] Plin. xx. 22. - - [VI-2] Nonnius, De Re Cibariâ, i. 14. - - [VI-3] Plin. xix. 8, 22. - - [VI-4] Matth. xiii. 31; xvii. 20; Marc. iv. 31; Luc. xiii. 19; xvii. 6. - - [VI-5] Boerhaave, Hist. Plant. - - [VI-6] See Les Bigarrures du Seigneur des Accords. Paris, 1662, p. 62. - - [VI-7] Plin. xx. 20. - - [VI-8] Varro. R. R. - - [VI-9] Plin. xviii. 7, 14. - - [VI-10] Id. Ibid. - - [VI-11] Athen. i. 15. - - [VI-12] Ibid. ii. 14. - - [VI-13] Plin. xviii. 14. - - [VI-14] Bruyerin, vii. - - [VI-15] Plin. xix. 1. - - [VI-16] Galen. De Aliment. Facult. i.; Bruyerin. vii. 12. - - [VI-17] Plin. loc. cit. - - [VI-18] Bruyerin, vii. 13. - - [VI-19] Simeo. Sethi, De Aliment. Facult. - - -VII. - -VEGETABLES. - - [VII-1] Nonnius, De Re Cibar. i. 5. - - [VII-2] Plin. xviii. 10. - - [VII-3] Genes. ix. 3. - - [VII-4] Ibid. xxv. 34. - - [VII-5] Samuel, xvii. 28. - - [VII-6] Daniel, i. 12, 16. - - [VII-7] Athen. i. 45. - - [VII-8] Iliad. - - [VII-9] Athen. ii. 8. - - [VII-10] Varro. De Re Rust, i. 23, 32; Isidor. Orig. xvii. 4. - - [VII-11] Cato. 35, 36; Virgil. Georg. i. ii.; Varro. De Re Rust. i. - 23, 32.; Ovid. Fast. v.; Gell. iv. 11. - - [VII-12] Virgil. Georg. translat. by Delille. - - [VII-13] Sigonius, De Nominib. Roman. - - [VII-14] Cic. lib. vii. Epist. 26 ad Fab. Gall. - - [VII-15] 97 years B.C. - - [VII-16] Dio. Epitom. Tiber. - - [VII-17] Apicius, De Obsoniis. i. 23. - - [VII-18] Caroli Magni Capitul. - - -VIII. - -DRIED VEGETABLES. - - [VIII-1] Ovid. Fast, iii.; Festus, De Verb. Signif.; Nonnius, i. 5. - - [VIII-2] Festus, loc. cit. - - [VIII-3] Nonnius, loc. cit. - - [VIII-4] Id. loc. cit. - - [VIII-5] Theophrast. De Caus. Plant.; Clem. Alex. Strom.; Cic. De - Divinat. i.; Plin. xviii. 7, 12.; Simeo. Sethi, De Aliment. Facult. p. - 134. - - [VIII-6] Hippocrat. iii. aphor. 20. - - [VIII-7] Plin. xviii. 12. - - [VIII-8] Pollux et Eustath. - - [VIII-9] Isidor. Orig. vii.; Nonnius, i. 5. - - [VIII-10] II. Reg. xvii. 28. - - [VIII-11] Ezech. iv. 9. - - [VIII-12] Athen. iii. 1. - - [VIII-13] Id. Ibid. - - [VIII-14] Id. Ibid. - - [VIII-15] Dioscorid. ii. 99; Athen. loc. cit.; Plin. xxi. 15; - Theophrast. v. - - [VIII-16] Plin. xvi. 30; xxiv. 2. - - [VIII-17] Pinkerton’s Ancient Scot. Poems, vol. ii. p. 431. - - [VIII-18] Anecdotes of Some Distinguished Persons, vol. iii. p. 317. - - [VIII-19] Boemus Aubanus. Mores, Leges, &c., Omnium Gentium, Genev. - 1620, p. 266. - - [VIII-20] Brand’s Popular Antiquities, vol. i. p. 24. - - [VIII-21] Athen. - - [VIII-22] Virgil. Georg. i. 227. - - [VIII-23] Athen. ii. 15. - - [VIII-24] Galen. De Aliment. Facult. ii. - - [VIII-25] Id. Ibid. v.; Nonnius, i. 5.; Platina, De Tuend. Valetud. - - [VIII-26] Columell. ii. 10. - - [VIII-27] Mélanges Tirés d’une Grande Bibliothèque. - - [VIII-28] II. Reg. xvii. 28. - - [VIII-29] Martial i. 42. - - [VIII-30] Lambinus; Erasm. In Adagiis. - - [VIII-31] Columell. ii. 10.; Plin. xviii. 12. - - [VIII-32] Martial. loc. cit. - - [VIII-33] Horat. Sat. i. 3. - - [VIII-34] Athen. iv.; Nonnius. De Re Cibar.; Bruyerin. vii. 3.; - Florentin. ap. Constant. Cæsar. xi. - - [VIII-35] Athen. vi. 4. - - [VIII-36] Id.; Nonnius; Bruyerin. loc. cit. - - [VIII-37] Genes. xxv. 34. - - [VIII-38] II. Reg. xvii. 28. - - [VIII-39] Ibid. xxiii. 11. - - [VIII-40] Ezech. iv. 9. - - [VIII-41] Cic. Tuscul. iv.; Virgil. Georg. i. ii.; Isidor. Orig. xvii. - - [VIII-42] Appian. De Bello Parthico; Plutarch. In Vitâ Crassi. - - [VIII-43] Virgil. Georg. i. 228. - - [VIII-44] Plin. xv. 12. - - -IX. - -KITCHEN GARDEN. - - [IX-1] Delille, Préface du Poème des Jardins. - - [IX-2] Num. xxiv. 6. - - [IX-3] Virgil. Georg. iv. - - [IX-4] Esth, vii. 7, 8. - - [IX-5] Ex Trog. Pompeio. Justin, xxxvi. - - [IX-6] Q. Curt. v. 1. - - [IX-7] Odyss. vii. - - [IX-8] Dio. xlvii.; Sueton. Cæs. 83. - - [IX-9] Cato. Varro. Columell. passim. - - [IX-10] Cal. Siculus. Eclog. ii. - - [IX-11] Frontin. Cœl. Sympos. Œnigm. 72; Pallad. ix. 11. - - [IX-12] Scriptores Rei Rustic. passim. - - [IX-13] Ibid. - - [IX-14] Hippocrat. Aphorism. - - [IX-15] Plin. - - [IX-16] Cato. De Re Rustic. 156, 157. - - [IX-17] Athen. ix. 2. - - [IX-18] Cato. loc. cit. - - [IX-19] Ch. St Laurent, Diction. Encyclopéd. - - [IX-20] Apicius, De Obsoniis, iii. 9. - - [IX-21] Id. Ibid. - - [IX-22] Id. Ibid. - - [IX-23] Id. Ibid. - - [IX-24] Olivier de Serres. - - [IX-25] Columell. x. 251 et 254. - - [IX-26] Plin. xix. 8. - - [IX-27] Athen. i. 6. - - [IX-28] Id. ix. 2. - - [IX-29] Id. Ibid. - - [IX-30] Martial. xiii. 13. - - [IX-31] Apicius, iii. 2. - - [IX-32] Id. Ibid. - - [IX-33] Id. iii. 11. - - [IX-34] Dioscorid. - - [IX-35] Stephan. Thesaur. Ling. Latin.; Ch. St. Laurent, Dict. - Encyclop. - - [IX-36] Beckmann, Hist. of Invent. - - [IX-37] Hispanicum Olus. - - [IX-38] Athen. ii. 18. - - [IX-39] Id. Ibid. - - [IX-40] Horat. Epod. ii. 58. - - [IX-41] Martial. iii. 89. - - [IX-42] Cic. vii. Familiar. 26. - - [IX-43] Plin. xx. 21. - - [IX-44] Apicius, iii. 8. - - [IX-45] Id. Ibid. - - [IX-46] La Fontaine, Fables. - - [IX-47] Athen. ii. 21. - - [IX-48] Id. Ibid. - - [IX-49] Id. Ibid. - - [IX-50] Plin. xix. 4. - - [IX-51] Id. xix. 8. - - [IX-52] Sueton. Oct. Cæs. 87. - - [IX-53] Apicius, iii. 3. - - [IX-54] Plin. loc. cit. - - [IX-55] Dictionnaire des Sciences Naturelles. - - [IX-56] Plin. xix. 5. - - [IX-57] Id. Ibid. - - [IX-58] Id. Ibid. - - [IX-59] Athen. ii. 18. - - [IX-60] Id. Ibid. - - [IX-61] Propert. iv. 2, 43. - - [IX-62] Juvenal. Sat xiv. 47. - - [IX-63] Athen. ii. 18. - - [IX-64] Athen. ii. 18. - - [IX-65] Id. Ibid. - - [IX-66] Id. ix. 3. - - [IX-67] Id. Ibid. - - [IX-68] Apicius, iii. 4. - - [IX-69] Id. Ibid. - - [IX-70] Id. Ibid. - - [IX-71] Id. Ibid. - - [IX-72] Athen. i. 6. - - [IX-73] Scriptores Rei Rustic. - - [IX-74] Apicius, iii. 13. - - [IX-75] Plin. xix. 5. - - [IX-76] Id. xxi. 15. - - [IX-77] Apicius, iii. 21. - - [IX-78] Id. Ibid. - - [IX-79] Id. Ibid. - - [IX-80] Festus. - - [IX-81] Dr. Charbonnier. - - [IX-82] Plin. xx. 20. - - [IX-83] Id. Ibid. - - [IX-84] Id. xix. 12. - - [IX-85] Apicius, iii. 11. - - [IX-86] Plin. xix. 8. - - [IX-87] Athen. - - [IX-88] Apicius, iii. 9. - - [IX-89] Ruell. i. 20. - - [IX-90] Athen. ii. 13; Pollux, vi. 9. - - [IX-91] Id. Ibid. - - [IX-92] Dioscorid. iii. 14. - - [IX-93] Plin. xxi. 16. - - [IX-94] Id. Ibid. - - [IX-95] Hermolao Barbaro. - - [IX-96] Ruell. i. - - [IX-97] 2nd cent. A.C. - - [IX-98] Galen. De Aliment. Facult. - - [IX-99] Columell. x. 236. - - [IX-100] Geoponic. xii. 39. - - [IX-101] Ibid. - - [IX-102] Apicius, iii. 19. - - [IX-103] Ch. St. Laurent, Dict. Encycl. - - [IX-104] Apicius, loc. cit. - - [IX-105] Id. Ibid. - - [IX-106] Tertullian, De Animâ, cap. 32. - - [IX-107] Id. Adv. Marc. iv. 40. - - [IX-108] Plin. xx. 2. - - [IX-109] Num. xi. 5. - - [IX-110] Apicius, iii. 4. - - [IX-111] Id. Ibid. - - [IX-112] Ch. St. Laurent, Dict. Encyc. - - [IX-113] Apicius, iii. 5. - - [IX-114] Num. xi. 5. - - [IX-115] Athen. - - [IX-116] Geoponic. xii. 7, 4. - - [IX-117] Plin. - - [IX-118] Apicius, iii. 6. - - [IX-119] Apicius, i. 31. - - [IX-120] Id. Ibid. - - [IX-121] Id. iii. 6. - - [IX-122] Id. Ibid. - - [IX-123] Id. Ibid. - - [IX-124] Exod. xii. 8; Num. ix. 11. - - [IX-125] Athen. ii. 18. - - [IX-126] Id. Ibid. - - [IX-127] Martial. xiii. 14. - - [IX-128] Bibl. Sacra. loc. cit. - - [IX-129] Athen. i. 12. - - [IX-130] Theophrast. Hist. Plant. vi. 7. - - [IX-131] Galen. De Aliment. Facult. - - [IX-132] Sueton. In August. - - [IX-133] Ch. St. Laurent, Dict. Encycl. - - [IX-134] Apicius, iii. 15. - - [IX-135] Id. Ibid. - - [IX-136] Platina; Taillevant. - - [IX-137] Plin. xx. 8. - - [IX-138] Virgil. Georg. i. 120. - - [IX-139] Columell. x. 3. - - [IX-140] Pallad. i. 30; Apul. De Herb. 47. - - [IX-141] Apicius, iii. 18. - - [IX-142] Geoponic. xii. 31. - - [IX-143] Num. xi. 5. - - [IX-144] Socrat. In Zenophont. Symposio. - - [IX-145] Plin. xix. 6. - - [IX-146] Horat. lib. i. Epod. xii. 21. - - [IX-147] Apicius, iii. 15. - - [IX-148] Alexand. v. 10. - - [IX-149] Num. xi. 5. - - [IX-150] Geoponic. xii. 29. - - [IX-151] Ibid. - - [IX-152] Athen. ix. 3. - - [IX-153] Apicius, iii. 10. - - [IX-154] Id. Ibid. - - [IX-155] J. A. St. John, The Hindoos, vol. i. p. 357. - - [IX-156] Suidas. Tiber. iii. - - [IX-157] Geoponic. xii. 20. - - [IX-158] Ibid. - - [IX-159] Ibid. - - [IX-160] Apicius, iii. 7. - - [IX-161] Pasquier, Recherches sur la France. - - [IX-162] Babylonic Talmud. - - [IX-163] Athen. i. 6. - - [IX-164] Plin. xix. 5. - - [IX-165] Id. Ibid. - - [IX-166] Id. Ibid. - - [IX-167] Varro. R. R.; Columell. xi.; Plin. xviii. - - [IX-168] Geoponic. xii. 21; Varro. i. 11. - - [IX-169] Sueton. In Vespas. iv. - - [IX-170] Apicius, iii. 13. - - [IX-171] Id. i. 24. - - [IX-172] Athen. ii. 16. - - [IX-173] Plin. xix. 5. - - [IX-174] Athen. loc. cit. - - [IX-175] Theophrast. Hist. Plant. vii. 4. - - [IX-176] Id. Ibid. - - [IX-177] Id. Ibid. - - [IX-178] Geoponic. xii. 22. - - [IX-179] Ibid. - - [IX-180] Ibid. - - [IX-181] Ibid. - - [IX-182] Ibid. - - [IX-183] Apicius, iii. 14. - - [IX-184] Plin. xx. 6. - - [IX-185] Suidas. - - [IX-186] Plaut. Pœn. v. 5, 34. - - [IX-187] Suidas. - - [IX-188] Virgil. Eclog. ii. 9. - - [IX-189] Dict. des Sciences Naturel. - - [IX-190] Athen. - - [IX-191] Geoponic. xii. 30. - - [IX-192] Ibid. - - [IX-193] Plin. xix. 16. - - [IX-194] Banier, Mytholog. tom. vii. p. 198. - - [IX-195] Plutarch. Sympos. v. 3. - - [IX-196] Anacreon, passim. - - [IX-197] Horat. Od. i. 36. - - [IX-198] Paschal. Coron. p. 436. - - [IX-199] Homer. Iliad, ii. - - [IX-200] Plin. xx. 1. - - [IX-201] Apicius, iii. 2. - - [IX-202] Id. iii. 15. - - [IX-203] Plutarch. Sympos. v. - - [IX-204] Columell. xi. 3. - - [IX-205] Apicius, iii. 12. - - [IX-206] Cic. In 5 Tuscul. cap. 34. - - [IX-207] Id. De Finib. ii. 92. - - [IX-208] Plutarch. De Virtute et Vitio, sub fin. - - [IX-209] Dr. Charbonnier. - - [IX-210] Geoponic. xii. 27. - - [IX-211] Ibid. - - [IX-212] Ibid. - - [IX-213] Plin. xix. 8. - - [IX-214] Apicius, iii. 16. - - [IX-215] Id. Ibid. - - -X. - -PLANTS USED IN SEASONING. - - [X-1] Plin. xix. 8. - - [X-2] Id. Ibid. - - [X-3] Nonnius, De Re Cibariâ. - - [X-4] Dalechamp, Ad Plin. xx. 25. - - [X-5] Petron. cap. i. - - [X-6] Plin. loc. cit - - [X-7] Dioscorid. ii. 120. - - [X-8] Plin. xx. 20. - - [X-9] Geoponic. xii. 26. - - [X-10] Ibid. - - [X-11] Ovid. Remed. Amor. 402; Juvenal. Sat. ix. 134; Columell. x. 171. - - [X-12] Isidor. xvii. 11. - - [X-13] Geoponic. xii. 34. - - [X-14] Virgil. Eclog. ii. 48. - - [X-15] Columell. xi. 3. - - [X-16] Dioscorid. i. 52. - - [X-17] Id. v. 41. - - [X-18] Apicius, vi. 9; vii. 6. - - [X-19] Plin. xx. 17. - - [X-20] Id. Ibid. - - [X-21] Psalm l. 9. - - [X-22] Columell. vii. 5. - - [X-23] Plin. xxv. 11. - - [X-24] Columell. xii. 35. - - [X-25] Plin. xx. 17. - - [X-26] Dioscorid. v. 38. - - [X-27] Cato. R. R. 127. - - [X-28] Columell. x. 238. - - [X-29] Id. xii. 35. - - [X-30] Plin. xx. 22. - - [X-31] Id. xxi. 22. - - [X-32] Id. Ibid. - - [X-33] Const. Cæs. vi. 14. - - [X-34] Plin. xx. 14. - - [X-35] Geoponic. xii. 33. - - [X-36] Athen. - - [X-37] Macer. i. 12. - - [X-38] Athen. - - [X-39] Geoponic. xii. 25. - - [X-40] Turneb. Advers. viii. 5. - - [X-41] Ovid. Metam. - - [X-42] Plin. xx. 14. - - [X-43] Geoponic. xii. 24. - - [X-44] Ovid. Art. Amat. ii. 418. - - [X-45] Apicius, i. 29; iv. 2. - - [X-46] Plin. xix. 8. - - [X-47] Martial. iii. 77, 5. - - [X-48] Apicius, i. 30. - - [X-49] Id. x. 2, 7. - - [X-50] Plin. xii. 7. - - [X-51] Apicius. - - [X-52] Lamprid. Elogab. 21. - - [X-53] Plin. xxvii. 7. - - [X-54] Strabo. Geograph. vii. - - [X-55] Apicius, i. 3. - - [X-56] Martial. viii. 68. - - -XI. - -FRUITS. - - [XI-1] Genes. ii. 16. - - [XI-2] Deuteron. xx. 19. - - [XI-3] Levitic. xix. 23, 24. - - [XI-4] Deuteron. xx. 6. - - [XI-5] Ovid. Metam. xiv. 623. - - [XI-6] Propert. iv. 2, 10. - - [XI-7] Ovid. Fast. i. 415. - - [XI-8] Virgil. Georg. i. 18. - - [XI-9] Natalis Comes. vii. 15. - - [XI-10] Id. ii. 1. - - [XI-11] Id. i. 10. - - [XI-12] Tibull. ii. 3, 67. - - [XI-13] Athen. ix. - - [XI-14] Sueton. In August. 76. - - [XI-15] Vid. Stuckium, Nonnium, Bruyerinum, &c. - - [XI-16] Seneca, Epist 122. - - [XI-17] Id. De Irâ, i. 16. - - [XI-18] Id. Controv. v. 5. - - [XI-19] Apicius, i. 20. - - -XII. - -STONE FRUIT. - - [XII-1] Constant. Cæs. ix. 1. - - [XII-2] Id. Ibid. - - [XII-3] Æsch. Agam. - - [XII-4] Statius. Theb. ii. - - [XII-5] Euripid. Heracl. act ii. - - [XII-6] Apollon. Rhod. iv. - - [XII-7] Id. ii. et ibi Scholiast. - - [XII-8] Id. Ibid. - - [XII-9] Diodor. Sicul. vi. - - [XII-10] Genes. i. 11, 12. - - [XII-11] Genes. xxviii. 18. - - [XII-12] Diodor. v.; Justin. xiii. - - [XII-13] Exod. xxv. 6. - - [XII-14] Ibid. xxix. 7. - - [XII-15] Ibid. xxiii. 40. - - [XII-16] Exod. Levitic. Numer. Deuteronom. passim. - - [XII-17] Mishna. - - [XII-18] Plin. xv. 4. - - [XII-19] Athen. ii. 25. - - [XII-20] Id. Ibid. - - [XII-21] Id. iv. 4. - - [XII-22] Plin. xxiii. 3. - - [XII-23] Ruellius. - - [XII-24] Athen. ii. 8. - - [XII-25] Theophrast. Hist Plantar. passim. - - [XII-26] Plin. xv. 1. - - [XII-27] Id. i. 2. - - [XII-28] Id. viii., xii., xv., xvi. - - [XII-29] Cato. i. 1, 3, 31, 67, 68, 144. - - [XII-30] Varro. R. R. i. 2. - - [XII-31] Columell. i. 6, v. 8; xii. 50. - - [XII-32] Plin. xv. 3.; Mathiol. In Dioscorid. i. - - [XII-33] Plin. loc. cit. - - [XII-34] Martial, xii. - - [XII-35] Tit. Liv. - - [XII-36] Spartian. xxii. - - [XII-37] Horat. Od. 6. lib. ii. - - [XII-38] Plin. xiii. 2. - - [XII-39] Sueton. In Cæs. 53. - - [XII-40] Salmas. De Homonym. Hyles Intricæ. cap. 103. - - [XII-41] Plin. xxii. 24. - - [XII-42] See p. 269. - - [XII-43] Apicius, i. 5. - - [XII-44] Vid. Pontan. - - [XII-45] Natal. Com. vii. 15. - - [XII-46] Bibl. Sacr. passim. - - [XII-47] Levitic. x. 9; Deuteron. xiv. 26. - - [XII-48] Guénée, Lettres de Quelques Juifs, tom. iii. p. 270, edit. - 8vo. - - [XII-49] Joseph. De Bell. Judaic. ii. 2. - - [XII-50] Theophrast. ii. 8. - - [XII-51] Plin. xiii. 14. - - [XII-52] Plutarch.; Athen. - - [XII-53] Hieronym. Ad Eustochium, epist. 19. - - [XII-54] Plin. xv. 25; Ammian. Marcell. xx. 13. - - [XII-55] Plin. xv. 25. - - [XII-56] Virgil. Georg. - - [XII-57] Athen. ii. 11. - - [XII-58] Theophrast. iii. 13; ix. 1. - - [XII-59] Plin. xv. 25. - - [XII-60] Id. Ibid. - - [XII-61] Columell. v. 10; xi. 2. - - [XII-62] Galen. De Aliment. Facultat. ii.; Dioscorid. i. 131. - - [XII-63] Plin. xv. - - [XII-64] Theophrast. iii. 5. - - [XII-65] Plin. xv. 14. - - [XII-66] Columell. x. 17. - - [XII-67] Plin. xiii. 9; xv. 13. - - [XII-68] Galen. ii. - - [XII-69] Dioscorid. i. 131. - - [XII-70] Apicius, i. 26. - - [XII-71] Theophrast. i. 11; iv. 3; ix. 1. - - [XII-72] Athen. ii. 10. - - [XII-73] Theophrast. et Athen. loc. cit.; Geoponic. x. 40. - - [XII-74] Virgil. Eclog. ii. - - [XII-75] Plin. xiii. 10; xv. 12. - - [XII-76] Dictionnaire des Origines. - - [XII-77] Mémoires de Dangeau. - - [XII-78] Gaillard, Hist. de François I. - - [XII-79] Théâtre d’Agriculture. - - -XIII. - -PIP FRUIT. - - [XIII-1] Theophrast. ii. 4. - - [XIII-2] Athen. iii. - - [XIII-3] Cato. De Re Rusticâ. - - [XIII-4] Plin. xv. 11. - - [XIII-5] Galen. De Aliment. Facult. - - [XIII-6] Columell. v. 10. - - [XIII-7] Pallad. xi. 20. - - [XIII-8] Forum Cupedinarium. - - [XIII-9] Dioscorid. v. 20. - - [XIII-10] Ulpian. ix. Sess. de Trit. Vin. OI. - - [XIII-11] Athen. iii. 6. - - [XIII-12] Id. Ibid. - - [XIII-13] Apicius, i. 19. - - [XIII-14] II. Reg. v. 23, 24; 1 Paralip. xiv. 14, 15. - - [XIII-15] Theophrast. ii. 23, et passim. - - [XIII-16] Plin. xv. 15. - - [XIII-17] Galen. De Simpl. Medicam. v.; De Aliment. Facult. ii. - - [XIII-18] Grandes Chroniques Françaises; Vita B. Francisc. - - [XIII-19] Cant. ii. 3, 5; vii. 8; viii. 5; Joel, i. 12. - - [XIII-20] Cant. ii. 3. - - [XIII-21] Bruyerin. xi. 16. - - [XIII-22] Athen. i. 21. - - [XIII-23] Strab. xv. - - [XIII-24] Turneb. De Vino. p. 22. - - [XIII-25] Virgil. Georg. ii. 126, et seqq. - - [XIII-26] Athen. iii. 4. - - [XIII-27] Theophrast. i. 22; iv. 4; viii. 8. - - [XIII-28] Athen. loc. cit. - - [XIII-29] Dioscorid. i. 136. - - [XIII-30] Athen. loc. cit. - - [XIII-31] Lib. i. cap. 21. Lond. 1705, 8vo. - - [XIII-32] Plin. xii. 3; xxiii. 6; xxv. 28. - - [XIII-33] Pallad. xii. 7. - - [XIII-34] Athen. iii. 4. - - [XIII-35] Apicius, i. 21. - - [XIII-36] Plin. xxiii. 6; Athen. iii. 4; Galen. Simplic. Medic, vii. - - [XIII-37] Année Littéraire, 1755. - - [XIII-38] Nouveau Dict. Class. d’Hist. Nat. Paris, 1844. - - [XIII-39] Année Littér. 1755. - - [XIII-40] Brand’s Popular Antiquities, vol. i. p. 9. - - [XIII-41] Dictionnaire d’Histoire Naturelle. - - [XIII-42] Genes. iii. 7. - - [XIII-43] Num. xx. 5. - - [XIII-44] Ibid. 24, 28. - - [XIII-45] II. Reg. iv. 25. - - [XIII-46] IV. Reg. xviii. 31. - - [XIII-47] Guénée, Lettr. de Quelq. Juifs, tom. iii. pp. 271, 272. - - [XIII-48] Pausan. In Atticis. - - [XIII-49] Athen. iii. - - [XIII-50] Id. iii. 2. - - [XIII-51] _Sukon_, fig, and _phainô_ - - [XIII-52] Plutarch. De Curiosit. - - [XIII-53] Athen. xiv. - - [XIII-54] Plin. xv. 18. - - [XIII-55] Cato. R. R. 94, 99, 133. - - [XIII-56] Varro. R. R. - - [XIII-57] Plin. loc. cit. - - [XIII-58] Athen. iii. 14. - - [XIII-59] Bruyerin. xi. 37. - - [XIII-60] I. Reg. xxv. 18, 27. - - [XIII-61] Clem. Alex. In Pædag. - - [XIII-62] Plin. xii. 1; Plutarch. In Camill. 390 B.C. - - [XIII-63] Athen. iii. - - [XIII-64] Galen. De Cibis Boni et Mali Succi. - - [XIII-65] Hippocrat. De Diœt. ii. - - [XIII-66] Plin. xxiv. 14; Dioscorid. iv. 33. - - [XIII-67] _Uva crispa_, and _ribes_. - - [XIII-68] Mathiol. In Dioscorid. i. 105. - - [XIII-69] Virgil. Eclog. iii. 92. - - [XIII-70] Ovid. Metam. xiii. 816. - - [XIII-71] Id. Ibid. i. 104. - - [XIII-72] Plin. xvi. 25. - - [XIII-73] Athen. ii. 12. - - [XIII-74] Apicius, i. 22. - - [XIII-75] Psalm lxxxiv. 6; I. Chron. xiv. 14, 15. - - -XIV. - -SHELL FRUIT. - - [XIV-1] Macrob. 2; Saturnal. 14; Columell. v. 10. - - [XIV-2] Athen. i. 49. - - [XIV-3] Genes. xliii. 11. - - [XIV-4] Athen. iii. - - [XIV-5] Id. Ibid. - - [XIV-6] Apicius, iv. 2. - - [XIV-7] Plin. xxiii. 4. - - [XIV-8] Id. xvi. 25. - - [XIV-9] Dutour; Amandier. - - [XIV-10] Theophrast. Hist. Plant. - - [XIV-11] Exod. xxv. 33; xxxvii. 19. - - [XIV-12] Cant. vi. 10. - - [XIV-13] Plin. xv. 22. - - [XIV-14] Varro. L. L. iv.; Dioscorid. i. 141. - - [XIV-15] Theophrast. i. 3, et passim. - - [XIV-16] Catul. In Epithal. Tulliæ et Malli. - - [XIV-17] Servius, In Virgil. Eclog. viii. - - [XIV-18] Plin. xv. 22. - - [XIV-19] Pers. Sat. i.; Hesych. Lexic. voc. Nux. - - [XIV-20] Galen. Simpl. Medicam. - - [XIV-21] Mathiol. In Dioscorid. i. 141. - - [XIV-22] Avicen. v. 4. - - [XIV-23] Athen. ii. 7. - - [XIV-24] Id. Ibid. - - [XIV-25] Plin. xxiii. 8; Q. Seren. Sammonic. - - [XIV-26] Theophrast. i. 5; Athen. ii. 7. - - [XIV-27] Cato. R. R. 8; Macrob. Saturnal. iii. 18. - - [XIV-28] Nucula. Festus. - - [XIV-29] Nonnius. i. 37. - - [XIV-30] Galen. De Aliment. Facult. ii.; Dioscorid. i. 42. - - [XIV-31] Hospinian. De Orig. Fester. Christian. fol. 113. B. - - [XIV-32] Plin. xiii. 5. - - [XIV-33] Theophrast. iv. 5. - - [XIV-34] Plin. xv. 22. - - [XIV-35] Galen. De Alim. Facult. ii. - - [XIV-36] Avicen. lib. ii. - - [XIV-37] Athen. ii. 13. - - [XIV-38] Virgil. Eclog. ii. 52. - - [XIV-39] Id. Eclog. i. 82. - - [XIV-40] Nicand. Interp. Turneb. - - [XIV-41] Sipont. - - [XIV-42] Natalis Comes. iii. 16. - - [XIV-43] Martial. i. 44. - - [XIV-44] Columell. xii. 41. - - [XIV-45] Plin. xiii. 19. - - [XIV-46] Columell. loc. cit. - - [XIV-47] Apicius, i. 18. - - [XIV-48] Athen. xiv. - - [XIV-49] Pausan. et Diodor. passim. - - -XV. - -ANIMAL FOOD. - - [XV-1] Genes. i. 29; iii. 17, 18, 19. - - [XV-2] Ibid. iii. 21. - - [XV-3] Ibid. iii. 19. - - [XV-4] Ibid. iv. 4. - - [XV-5] Ibid. xviii. 8. - - [XV-6] Xenoph. De Cyri Expedit.; Varro. R. R. ii. 1; Bruyerin. ii. 1; - iv. 1. - - [XV-7] Hieronym. Adv. Jovin. Arnob. Cont. Gent. ii. - - [XV-8] Plutarch. De Esu Carn.; Porphyr. De Non Necand. &c. - - [XV-9] Bossuet, Discours sur l’Hist. Universel. - - [XV-10] Genes, ix. 3. - - [XV-11] Herodot. Hist. i.; Virgil. Georg. i.; Ovid. Metam. i. et xv. - - [XV-12] Bruyerin. ii. 1; Plin. xvi. 5. - - [XV-13] Ovid. Metam. i. 3. - - [XV-14] Porphyr. De Non Necandis ad Epuland. Animantib. i. - - [XV-15] Plin. vii. 5; Porphyr. i. ii.; Polyd. Virgil. De Rer. - Inventor. iii. 2. - - [XV-16] 756 years after the Deluge. - - [XV-17] 943 years after the Deluge; Athen. ix. Var. R. R. ii. 4; Ovid. - Metam. xv. - - [XV-18] Ibid. loc. cit. - - [XV-19] Plin. vii. 56. - - [XV-20] La Fontaine, Les Animaux Malades de la Peste. - - [XV-21] Plin. loc. cit.; Nonnius ii. 1; Ælian. Var. Hist. i. 3; Paus. - i. - - [XV-22] 895 B.C. - - [XV-23] Porphyr. loc cit. - - [XV-24] Homer. passim. - - [XV-25] Plutarch. De Esu Carnium. - - [XV-26] Genes. ix. 3. - - [XV-27] Levitic. xxii. 24. - - [XV-28] Deuteron. xxv. 4. - - [XV-29] Exod. xxiii. 5. - - [XV-30] Deuteron. xx. 10. - - [XV-31] Exod. xxiii. 12. - - [XV-32] Genes. passim. - - [XV-33] Xenoph. - - [XV-34] Homer. - - [XV-35] Leg. xii. Tabul. L. 72; Ulric. Zasii Catalog. Leg. Antiq. - - [XV-36] Ibid. lxxi. - - [XV-37] Columell. i. 3. - - [XV-38] Cic. In Brut. - - [XV-39] Hyginius in Frontin. De Controvers. Agror. cap. De Loc. - Publicis. - - [XV-40] Leg. i. De Abigeis. iii. Oves ss. De Abigeis. - - [XV-41] _Scrofa_, a sow. - - [XV-42] Varro. ii. 1. - - [XV-43] Geoponic. passim; Cato. Varro. Plin. Columell. Pallad. passim. - - [XV-44] Varro. - - [XV-45] Aul. Gell. xiii. 21. - - [XV-46] Ovid. Fast. iii. 523. - - [XV-47] S. Augustin. De Civitat. Dei. vi. 9. - - [XV-48] Geoponic. xvii. - - [XV-49] Paralipom. xxiii. 15; xxxiii. 14; II. Esdras, iii. 1, 28; xii. - 38; Sophon. i. 10. - - [XV-50] Tit. Liv. xxix. 37. - - [XV-51] Rosin. Antiquit. Rom. p. 39. - - [XV-52] Id. Ibid. p. 38. - - [XV-53] Ulpian. De Officio Præfect. Urbis. - - [XV-54] Homer. - - [XV-55] Turneb. Advers. - - [XV-56] Gruter. p. 647, n. 6. - - [XV-57] Encyclop. Méthod. Antiquit.; Gruter. loc. cit.; Montfaucon, - Antiq. Expliq. - - [XV-58] Cod. Theod. L. x. De Suariis et Pecuariis. - - [XV-59] Ibid. - - [XV-60] Cod. Valent. De Suariis. - - [XV-61] Ibid. - - [XV-62] Ibid. - - [XV-63] Ibid. - - [XV-64] Onuphr. Panvin. Descript. Urb. Rom. - - [XV-65] Sext. Rufin. Descript. Urb. Rom. - - [XV-66] _Geoponic._ iii. - - [XV-67] Apicius, i. 10. - - [XV-68] Id. i. 8. - - [XV-69] Delamarre. liv. v. titre 23, chap. 6. - - [XV-70] Monteil. Histoire des Français, tom. ii. p. 46. - - [XV-71] Arrêt du Parlement, 18 Mai, 1366. - - [XV-72] Delamarre. - - [XV-73] Règlement du 20 Mars, 1635. - - -XVI. - -ANIMALS. - - [XVI-1] Athen. iii. 7. - - [XVI-2] Id. ix. 5; Bulenger. ii. 24. - - [XVI-3] Herodot. ii. 47. - - [XVI-4] Plutarch. De Isid. et Osirid; Ælian. De Animal. x. 16. - - [XVI-5] Levitic. xi. 7, 8. - - [XVI-6] I. Macchab. i. 65, 66; II. Macchab. vi. 18, et seqq. - - [XVI-7] In Barakama. vi. 7. § 7; Maimonides, In Niskemamon. cap. v. - - [XVI-8] Kibuschim. 49. - - [XVI-9] Hoorabeck. De Conviv. Judæis, vii. 1. - - [XVI-10] Herodian. v. - - [XVI-11] Ælian. xvi. 37. - - [XVI-12] Koran, chap. vi. - - [XVI-13] Varro. R. R. ii. 4; Clem. Alexandr. Stromat. ii. - - [XVI-14] Scholiast. Aristophan. In Acharn. - - [XVI-15] Macrob. Saturn. i. 6; Aul. Gell. iv. 6. - - [XVI-16] Varro. loc. cit. - - [XVI-17] Fest. De Verb. Signific. - - [XVI-18] Varro. loc. cit. - - [XVI-19] Id. Ibid. - - [XVI-20] Johan. Pierius, Hieroglyph. ix. - - [XVI-21] Plutarch. Sympos. v. 10; Cic. De Natur. Deor. ii. - - [XVI-22] Galen. De Aliment. Facult. iii. - - [XVI-23] Id. De Cib. Boni et Mali Succi. - - [XVI-24] Id. Method. Medendi. vii. - - [XVI-25] Athen. passim. - - [XVI-26] Id. iii. 7, 9; ix. 6, et passim. - - [XVI-27] Id. iv. 1. - - [XVI-28] Athen. ix. 4, 5. - - [XVI-29] Bulenger. ii. 24. - - [XVI-30] Petron. Satyr. - - [XVI-31] Macrob. Sat. iii. 13. - - [XVI-32] Athen. ix. 7. - - [XVI-33] Varro. R. R. ii. 41. - - [XVI-34] Plin. viii. 51. - - [XVI-35] Petron. Satyr. - - [XVI-36] Lamprid. In Alexand. Sever. - - [XVI-37] Macrob. Saturn. iii. 13. - - [XVI-38] Plin. xi. 37. - - [XVI-39] Nonnius, ii. 3. - - [XVI-40] Strabo. vi. 3, 7; Martial. Lemmate de Pernâ. - - [XVI-41] Nonnius; Stuckius. - - [XVI-42] Cato. R. R. cap. ultimo. - - [XVI-43] Strabo, iv. - - [XVI-44] Plutarch. Sympos. v. 10; Varro. R. R. ii. 4. - - [XVI-45] Bruyerin. xiii. I. - - [XVI-46] Athen. ix. 1; Petron. Satyr. - - [XVI-47] Juvenal. Sat. xi. - - [XVI-48] Spartian. In Adrian. - - [XVI-49] Plin. viii. 57. - - [XVI-50] Dio. ex Xiphil. In Vespasian. cap. x. - - [XVI-51] Id. In Claud. v. - - [XVI-52] Apicius, i. 9. - - [XVI-53] Plutarch. Apophteg. - - [XVI-54] Apicius, viii. 7. - - [XVI-55] Id. Ibid. - - [XVI-56] Id. Ibid. - - [XVI-57] Cato. R. R. 163. - - [XVI-58] Apicius, vii. 3. - - [XVI-59] Id. vii. 9. - - [XVI-60] Athen. iii. 21. - - [XVI-61] Id. ii. 4. - - [XVI-62] Id. Ibid. - - [XVI-63] Id. vii. 2. - - [XVI-64] Id. Ibid. - - [XVI-65] Id. vii. 3. - - [XVI-66] Id. Ibid.; Plin. viii. 51. - - [XVI-67] Apicius, vii. 9. - - [XVI-68] Id. ii. 1. - - [XVI-69] Id. ii. 4. - - [XVI-70] Id. ii. 1. - - [XVI-71] Id. ii. 2. - - [XVI-72] Fontan. Ordonnances. - - [XVI-73] Delamarre, Traité de la Police. - - [XVI-73A] Trésor de la Santé, liv. iii. - - [XVI-73B] Champier, xiii. 2. - - [XVI-74] Clem. Alexandr. Stromat. v. - - [XVI-75] Banier, Mythologie, tom. i. p. 354. - - [XVI-76] Ælian. Hist. xii. 34. - - [XVI-77] Euripid. Alcest. act v. - - [XVI-78] Pollux, ix. - - [XVI-79] Banier, tom. i. p. 448; Ælian. Hist. viii. 3. - - [XVI-80] Cic. De Natur. Deor. ii. - - [XVI-81] Aristophan. - - [XVI-82] Plutarch. Solon. - - [XVI-83] Homer. passim. - - [XVI-84] Genes. xii. 16; xx. 14; xxi. 27; xxiv. 35; xxxii. 5, et - passim. - - [XVI-85] Ibid. xviii. 7, 8. - - [XVI-86] Ibid. ix. 3. - - [XVI-87] Ibid. - - [XVI-88] Deuteron. xiv. 4. - - [XVI-89] Galen. De Ration. Vict. ii. - - [XVI-90] Poseidip. apud Athen. x. 2. - - [XVI-91] Theodor. Ibid. - - [XVI-92] Marm. Sandwic. p. 35. - - [XVI-93] II. Reg. vi. 19; Homer. et Athen. passim. - - [XVI-94] Nonnius. - - [XVI-95] Homer. Iliad. - - [XVI-96] Athen. iii. 7. - - [XVI-97] Id. Ibid. - - [XVI-98] Id. iv. 7. - - [XVI-99] Id. vi. 9. - - [XVI-100] Encyclop. Méthod. Antiquités. - - [XVI-101] Horat. ii. Sat. 5; I. Epist. 15. - - [XVI-102] Apicius, viii. 5. - - [XVI-103] Id. Ibid. - - [XVI-104] Apicius, viii. 5. - - [XVI-105] Id. Ibid. - - [XVI-106] Pers. Sat. ii. 43; Apul. Metam. ii.; Fulgent. De Vocib. - Antiq. - - [XVI-107] Valer. Maxim, viii. 1. - - [XVI-108] Sonnini; Desmarest: Bœuf. - - [XVI-109] Taillevant. - - [XVI-110] Senec. Natur. Quæst. iv. 6. - - [XVI-111] Banier, tom. i. p. 354. - - [XVI-112] Natal. Com. Mytholog. - - [XVI-113] Exod. xix. 38 to 42. - - [XVI-114] Banier, tom. i. p. 447. - - [XVI-115] Exod. xii. xxiii. - - [XVI-116] Genes. xxiii. 19. - - [XVI-117] IV. Reg. iii. 4. - - [XVI-118] Amos, vi. 4, 7. - - [XVI-119] Athen. i. 16. - - [XVI-120] Id. iv. - - [XVI-121] Id. vii. 24. - - [XVI-122] Id. passim. - - [XVI-123] Cels. - - [XVI-124] Apicius, viii. 6. - - [XVI-125] Id. Ibid. - - [XVI-126] Id. Ibid. - - [XVI-127] Id. Ibid. - - [XVI-128] Id. Ibid. - - [XVI-129] Beckwith’s edition of Blount’s Jocular Tenures, p. 281. - - [XVI-130] Genes, xxvii. 9, 17. - - [XVI-131] Exod. xii. 5. - - [XVI-132] Judic. xv. 1. - - [XVI-133] Luc. xv. 29. - - [XVI-134] Herodot. - - [XVI-135] Ibid. - - [XVI-136] Athen. iii. 1; iv. 7. - - [XVI-137] Id. ix. 3. - - [XVI-138] Athen. i. 6; Clem. Alexandr. Pædagog. ii. 1. - - [XVI-139] Athen. ix. 13. - - [XVI-140] Juvenal. Sat. xi. - - [XVI-141] Varro. R. R. ii. 3. - - [XVI-142] Apicius, viii. 6. - - [XVI-143] Id. Ibid. - - [XVI-144] Id. Ibid. - - [XVI-145] Id. Ibid. - - [XVI-146] Id. Ibid. - - [XVI-147] Levitic. xi. 26. - - [XVI-148] IV. Reg. vi. 25. - - [XVI-149] Galen. - - [XVI-150] Plin. viii. 43. - - [XVI-151] Galen. De Aliment. Facultat. iii. - - [XVI-152] Id. De Ration. Vict. cap. 7. - - [XVI-153] Id. De Alim. Facult. iii. - - [XVI-154] Id. Ibid. - - [XVI-155] Hippocrat. De Diœt. ii. - - [XVI-156] Fest. Pomp. - - [XVI-157] Athen. viii. - - [XVI-158] Plutarch. De Fortunâ Romanorum. - - -XVII. - -POULTRY. - - [XVII-1] Aristot. De Longit. et Brevit. Vitæ, cap. 4. - - [XVII-2] Galen. De Aliment Facult. iii. 18. - - [XVII-3] Macrob.; Dio. - - [XVII-4] Genes. i. - - [XVII-5] Lucian. xvi. De Syriæ Deâ. - - [XVII-6] Oppian. Cilix. Cyneget. ii. 189. - - [XVII-7] Aristophan. In Avibus. - - [XVII-8] Ælian. Var. Hist. ii. 28. - - [XVII-9] Plin. x. 21; Columell. viii. 2. - - [XVII-10] Plin. loc. cit. - - [XVII-11] Erasm. Chiliad. i. cent. 1; Columell. viii. c. 2. - - [XVII-12] Plin. x. 50. - - [XVII-13] L. Fannia. Sumptuar. In Catalog. Leg. Antiq. Ulrici. p. 143. - - [XVII-14] Macrob. Saturnal. iii. 17. - - [XVII-15] Aul. Gell. ii. 24; Plin. x. 50. - - [XVII-16] Martial. xiii. 63, 64. - - [XVII-17] Apicius, vi. 9. - - [XVII-18] Rosin. Antiquit. Roman. p. 207. - - [XVII-19] Galen, De Aliment. Facult. iii.; Nonnius. ii. 22. - - [XVII-20] Athen. ii. 12; iv. 1; ix. 4. - - [XVII-21] Plin. x. 50. - - [XVII-22] Varro. R. R. iii. 9. - - [XVII-23] Columell. viii 7; Plin. x. 51. - - [XVII-24] Plin. Ibid. - - [XVII-25] L. Fannia. loc. cit. - - [XVII-26] Nonnius. ii. 22. - - [XVII-27] Apicius, vi. 9. - - [XVII-28] Cic. De Divinat. - - [XVII-29] Val. Maxim. i. 4. - - [XVII-30] Aristot.; Vopiscus. - - [XVII-31] Athen. iv. 7, et passim. - - [XVII-32] Apicius, iv. 1. - - [XVII-33] Id. vi. 9. - - [XVII-34] Id. Ibid. - - [XVII-35] Id. Ibid. - - [XVII-36] Id. Ibid. - - [XVII-37] Aristophan. In Avib. - - [XVII-38] Id. Acharn. iv. 1, 14. - - [XVII-39] Athen. ii. 12; iv. 1, et passim. - - [XVII-40] De Comp. Medic. Second. loc. v. 4. - - [XVII-41] Plutarch. In Caton. - - [XVII-42] Athen. ix. - - [XVII-43] De Aliment. Facult. xiii. - - [XVII-44] Avicen. Canon Medicinæ. - - [XVII-45] Macrob. Saturnal. iii. 13. - - [XVII-46] Martial xiii. 52. - - [XVII-47] Apicius, iv. 2. - - [XVII-48] Id. iv. 6. - - [XVII-49] Ælian. v. xii.; Gessner. iii.; Aldrovand. xix. - - [XVII-50] Aristot. Hist. Animal. i. 1. - - [XVII-51] In Aristotel. loc. cit. - - [XVII-52] Homer. Odyss. - - [XVII-53] Athen. ii. 12; iv. 1, et passim. - - [XVII-54] Diod. Sicul. ii. 3. - - [XVII-55] Athen. ix. 7. - - [XVII-56] Aristoph. In Avib.; Porphyr. De Abstin. iv. - - [XVII-57] Cæsar. De Bello Gall. v. - - [XVII-58] Brand’s Popular Antiquities. - - [XVII-59] Plin. x. 22. - - [XVII-60] Polyb. ii.; Plut. In Camillo. - - [XVII-61] Pierii Hieroglyph. - - [XVII-62] Columell. viii. 13. - - [XVII-63] Alex. ab Alex. Genial. Dier. iii. 12. - - [XVII-64] Plut. De Roman. Fortunâ. - - [XVII-65] Nonnius. ii. 3. - - [XVII-66] Plin. - - [XVII-67] Lamprid. In Sever. - - [XVII-68] Pallad. i. 30; Athen. ix. 7; Plin. x. 22. - - [XVII-69] Plin. Ibid. - - [XVII-70] Id. ix. 20. - - [XVII-71] Id. Horat. Sat. - - [XVII-72] Plin. viii. 51. - - [XVII-73] Martial, xiii. 58. - - [XVII-74] Plin. x. 22; Galen. De Aliment. Facult. iii. 20; Æginet. ii. - 82. - - [XVII-75] Athen. ix. 7. - - [XVII-76] Pallad. i. 30. - - [XVII-77] Apicius, vi. 8. - - [XVII-78] Id. vi. 5. - - [XVII-79] Id. vi. 9. - - [XVII-80] Brand’s Popular Antiquities. - - [XVII-81] Strab. vii - - [XVII-82] Homer. Odyss. - - [XVII-83] Hesychius. - - [XVII-84] Selden, De Diis Syris. ii. 3; Tibull. i. 8, 18. - - [XVII-85] Bibl. Sacr. passim. - - [XVII-86] Cantic. passim. - - [XVII-87] Levitic. i. 14, 17. - - [XVII-88] S. Chrysost. Homil. de Patientiâ Job. - - [XVII-89] Homer. - - [XVII-90] Athen. ii 12; iv. 1, 5; ix. 11, et pass. - - [XVII-91] Id. Ibid. - - [XVII-92] Quintilius, In Geoponic. ap. Gessner de Avibus, iii - - [XVII-93] Plin. x. 37. - - [XVII-94] Id. Ibid. - - [XVII-95] Varro. R. R. iii 7. - - [XVII-96] Hippocrat. De Inter. Affect.; Galen. De Rat. Vict. - - [XVII-97] Apicius, vi. 9. - - [XVII-98] Varro. R. R. iii. 9. - - [XVII-99] Martial. sub Lemmat Numidicæ. - - [XVII-100] Plin. xix. 4. - - [XVII-101] Apicius, vi. 9. - - [XVII-102] Athen. i. 10. - - [XVII-103] Sophocl. ap. Plin. xxxvii. 2. - - [XVII-104] Aristot. Hist. Animal. vi. 2. - - [XVII-105] Apud Athen. xiv. 9. - - [XVII-106] Ibid. ix. 8. - - [XVII-107] Varro. R. R. - - [XVII-108] Sueton. In Caligul. 22. - - [XVII-109] Hesych. Lexic. Suidas. In Verb. Meleagrides. - - [XVII-110] Volteran. De Urbe. - - [XVII-111] Beckmann; Diction. des Découvertes. - - [XVII-112] Hurtaut, Dict. Historiq. de la Ville de Paris, tom. iv. p. - 417. - - [XVII-113] Apicius, vi. 9. - - [XVII-114] Hurtaut. loc. cit. - - [XVII-115] Aldrovand. xiii. 1; Nonnius. ii. 24. - - [XVII-116] Ælian. xiii. 18. - - [XVII-117] Diodor. Sicul. - - [XVII-118] Ælian. xi. 33. - - [XVII-119] Varro. R. R. iii. 6; Athen. xiv. 9, 25. - - [XVII-120] Aul. Gell. vii. 16. - - [XVII-121] Ælian. v. 21; Aldrovand. xiii. 1. - - [XVII-122] Athen. xiv. 25. - - [XVII-123] Id. Ibid. - - [XVII-124] Macrob. Saturn. iii. 13. - - [XVII-125] Juvenal. - - [XVII-126] Varro. R. R. iii. 6; Ælian. v. 21; Plin. x. 20. - - [XVII-127] Horat. lib. ii. Sat ii. - - [XVII-128] Varro. R. R. - - [XVII-129] Alexand. ab Alexandr. Genial. Dier. ii. 13. - - [XVII-130] Galen. De Aliment. Facult. iii. - - [XVII-131] S. Augustin. De Civit. Dei, xxii. 4. - - [XVII-132] Apicius, vi. 5. - - -XVIII. - -MILK, BUTTER, CHEESE, AND EGGS. - - [XVIII-1] Genes. xviii. 8. - - [XVIII-2] Exod. iii. 8; Levitic. xx. 24; Numer. xiii. 28; et passim. - - [XVIII-3] Proverb. xxvii. 27. - - [XVIII-4] Ovid. Metam. i. 3; Fast. iv. - - [XVIII-5] Homer. - - [XVIII-6] Herodot. iv. - - [XVIII-7] Strabo. - - [XVIII-8] Cæsar; Tacit. - - [XVIII-9] Longus. iii. - - [XVIII-10] Rosin. Antiq. Roman. p. 237. - - [XVIII-11] Varro. R. R. ii. 11. - - [XVIII-12] Hippocrat. Aphorism. v. 64. - - [XVIII-13] Galen. De Ration. Vict. - - [XVIII-14] Nonnius, ii. 15. - - [XVIII-15] Sueton. In Othon. xii. - - [XVIII-16] Martial. x. 68. - - [XVIII-17] Juvenal. Sat. vi. - - [XVIII-18] Plin. xxviii. 12: xxxiii. 11. - - [XVIII-19] Nonnius, ii. 15. - - [XVIII-20] Apicius, iv. 2. - - [XVIII-21] Beckmann. - - [XVIII-22] Rabbi Salom. - - [XVIII-23] Job, xxix. 6. - - [XVIII-24] Aristot. Hist. Animal. iii. 20. - - [XVIII-25] Id. Ibid. - - [XVIII-26] Hippocrat. De Morbis, iv. - - [XVIII-27] Hecat. Abderan. apud Athen. x. 14. - - [XVIII-28] Galen. De Aliment; Id. Simpl. Medicam. x.; Plin. xxviii. 9. - - [XVIII-29] Plin. Ibid. - - [XVIII-30] Id. xi. 41. - - [XVIII-31] Galen. De Aliment. Facult. - - [XVIII-32] Dioscorid. ii. 81. - - [XVIII-33] Herodot. iv. 2. - - [XVIII-34] Plin. xxviii. 9. - - [XVIII-35] Règlement du 20 Mars, 1635. - - [XVIII-36] Antiquitat. Ecclesiast. - - [XVIII-37] Dictionnaire de la France. - - [XVIII-38] Parmentier: Beurre. - - [XVIII-39] Justin. xiii. - - [XVIII-40] Apollodor. ii.; Pausan. viii. - - [XVIII-41] Homer. Iliad. - - [XVIII-42] I. Reg. xvii. 18; Judith, x. 5; Job, x. 10. - - [XVIII-43] Aristot. Hist. Animal. iii. 20. - - [XVIII-44] Hippocrat. De Morbis. iv.; Aristot. loc. cit. - - [XVIII-45] Plin. xi. 41; xxviii. 9. - - [XVIII-46] Ulpian. in L. viii. sicut. § Aristo. - - [XVIII-47] Onuphr. Panvini. - - [XVIII-48] Athen. i. 30; Plin. xi. 42. - - [XVIII-49] Plin. xi. 41. - - [XVIII-50] Stuckius, Antiq. Convival. i. 21. - - [XVIII-51] Pausan. vi. - - [XVIII-52] Varro. De Ling. Lat iv. 22. - - [XVIII-53] Cic. Epist. xiv. 16; Famil. xi. 16, 17, 20. - - [XVIII-54] Athen. - - [XVIII-55] Strabo. xii - - [XVIII-56] Sueton. In August. 76. - - [XVIII-57] Grégoire, Essai Historiq. sur l’Agricult. - - [XVIII-58] Ovid. Fast. iv. 371. - - [XVIII-59] Columell. vii. 8. - - [XVIII-60] Id. Ibid. - - [XVIII-61] Apicius, iv. 1. - - [XVIII-62] Id. i. 33. - - [XVIII-63] Parmentier: Fromage. - - [XVIII-64] Plutarch. Sympos. - - [XVIII-65] Alexand. Ab Alexandr.; Villichius, De Arte Magiricâ, 10. - - [XVIII-66] Lucian. De Deâ Syr. - - [XVIII-67] Tit Liv. xli.; Varro. R. R. i. 2. - - [XVIII-68] Suidas; Juvenal.; Macrob. vii. 16. - - [XVIII-69] Plin. x. 55. - - [XVIII-70] Cic. De Divinat. - - [XVIII-71] Plutarch. Sympos.; Macrob. Saturnal. vii. 16. - - [XVIII-72] Suidas; Cœl. Rhodig. - - [XVIII-73] Triph. apud Athen. ii. - - [XVIII-74] Horat. Sat i. 3. - - [XVIII-75] Id. Sat. ii. 4. - - [XVIII-76] Galen. De Aliment. Facult. - - [XVIII-77] Macrob. Sat. iii. 13. - - [XVIII-78] Plin. x. 53. - - [XVIII-79] Apud Athen. ii. 16. - - [XVIII-80] Plin. x. 20. - - [XVIII-81] Galen. De Dynamidiis; Plin. xxix. 3. - - [XVIII-82] Apicius, vii 17. - - [XVIII-83] Id. Ibid. - - [XVIII-84] Id. Ibid. - - [XVIII-85] Id. ii. 3. - - [XVIII-86] Id. iv. 1. - - [XVIII-87] Id. iv. 2. - - [XVIII-88] Court de Gebelin, Monde Primitif, tom. xiv. p. 251. - - [XVIII-89] Brand’s Popular Antiquities, vol. i. p. 147. - - [XVIII-90] Diction. des Origines. - - -XIX. - -HUNTING. - - [XIX-1] Genes, x. 9. - - [XIX-2] Ibid. xxi. 20. - - [XIX-3] I. Reg. xvii. 34, et seqq. - - [XIX-4] Ovid. lib, ix. Fab. 3. - - [XIX-5] Artemidor. ii Oneirocrit 35. - - [XIX-6] Xenophon. - - [XIX-7] Natalis Comes. Mythol. - - [XIX-8] Homer. - - [XIX-9] Aristot. De Republ. cap. 4. - - [XIX-10] Plato. De Legibus, Dialog. viii. - - [XIX-11] Horat. Epist. i. 18. - - [XIX-12] Jul. Poll. - - [XIX-13] Homer. Iliad. v.; Odyss. iv. - - [XIX-14] Plut. In Pelopid. - - [XIX-15] Id. In Alexandr. - - [XIX-16] Id. In Philopœm. - - [XIX-17] Xenoph. De Venatione, passim. - - [XIX-18] Symmach. Epist. v. 66. - - [XIX-19] Xenoph. loc. cit. - - [XIX-20] Id. Ibid. - - [XIX-21] Claudian, De Laud. Stilich. iii.; Symmach. Epist. ii. 17. - - [XIX-22] Montfaucon, Antiq. Expl. - - [XIX-23] Id. Ibid. - - [XIX-24] Apul. Milesiar. viii. - - [XIX-25] Prob. Grammatic. ad lib. iii. Georgic. - - [XIX-26] Sidon. Apollinar. Carm. vii. 198; Ovid. Metam. viii. - - [XIX-27] Strab. Geograph. - - [XIX-28] Lucret. - - [XIX-29] Martial. - - [XIX-30] Pollux, Onomast. v. 4. - - [XIX-31] Jul. Firmic. Maternus. - - [XIX-32] Dio Chrysost. - - [XIX-33] Varro. R. R. ii. 3; Plin. viii. 52. - - [XIX-34] Instit. Justinian. De Rer. Division. L. i. De Acquir. Doman. - § 11. - - [XIX-35] L. iii. Quod enim. De Acquir. &c. - - [XIX-36] Genes, xxvii. 3, 4. - - [XIX-37] III. Reg. iv. 23. - - [XIX-38] Xenoph. Exped. Cyri, i. - - [XIX-39] Id. De Republ. Lacedæm.; Herodot. Hist vii.; Athen. iv. - passim; Petron. Sat. - - [XIX-40] Asserius, Vita Ælfredi. - - [XIX-41] W. Malmsbur. Hist. Reg. Anglor. ii. 6. - - [XIX-42] Id. Ibid. cap. 8. - - [XIX-43] Id. Ibid. cap. 13. - - [XIX-44] Ducarrel’s Anglo-Norman Antiquities. - - [XIX-45] Johan. Sarisburiensis, De Nugis Curialium, i. 4. - - [XIX-46] Strutt’s Sports and Pastimes, edit. 1801, p. 6. - - [XIX-47] Aristot. Hist. Animal. ix. 6. - - [XIX-48] Plin. viii. 32. - - [XIX-49] Galen. De Rat. Vict. - - [XIX-50] Deuteron. xii. 15, 22. - - [XIX-51] III. Reg. iv. 23. - - [XIX-52] Stuckius. - - [XIX-53] Nonnius, ii. 10. - - [XIX-54] Apicius, viii. 2. - - [XIX-55] Id. Ibid. - - [XIX-56] Id. Ibid. - - [XIX-57] Galen. loc. cit.; De Alim. Facult. - - [XIX-58] Athen. i. 4. - - [XIX-59] Xenoph. Exped. Cyri. i.; Athen. ii; Plin. viii. 53. - - [XIX-60] Apicius viii. 2. - - [XIX-61] Id. Ibid. - - [XIX-62] Id. Ibid. - - [XIX-63] Plin. loc. cit.; Nonnius, ii. 10. - - [XIX-64] Apicius, loc. cit. - - [XIX-65] Athen. xii. - - [XIX-66] Petron. Sat. - - [XIX-67] Virgil. Æneid. ii. 1. - - [XIX-68] Macrob. Saturnal. iii 13. - - [XIX-69] Plin, viii. 51. - - [XIX-70] Athen. iv. 1. - - [XIX-71] Hippocrat. De Diœt. ii.; Plin. viii. 51, 52. - - [XIX-72] Juvenal. Sat. i. 141. - - [XIX-73] Plin. viii. 51; Mercurial. ii. 23. - - [XIX-74] Caton. Censor. Orat.; Plin. loc. cit. - - [XIX-75] Eubul. apud Athen. vii. 24. - - [XIX-76] Varro. R. R. iii. 13. - - [XIX-77] Senec. Epist. 90. - - [XIX-78] Varro. loc. cit. - - [XIX-79] Senec. De Providentiâ. cap. 4. - - [XIX-80] Apicius, viii. 1. - - [XIX-81] Id. Ibid. - - [XIX-82] Id. Ibid. - - [XIX-83] Id. Ibid. - - [XIX-84] Id. Ibid. - - [XIX-85] Apicius, viii. 1. - - [XIX-86] Plutarch. Sympos. iv. 5. - - [XIX-87] Joseph, contra Apion. - - [XIX-88] Levitic. xi. 6. - - [XIX-89] Cæsar, De Bell. Gall. v. - - [XIX-90] Xenoph. Exped. Cyri. - - [XIX-91] Herodot. vii.; Athen. iii. 1. - - [XIX-92] Apud. Athen. ix. 12. - - [XIX-93] Archestrat. ap. Athen. ix. - - [XIX-94] Athen. xiv. - - [XIX-95] Stuckius. ii. 8. - - [XIX-96] Hippocrat. De Diœt. ii. - - [XIX-97] Galen. De Aliment. Facult. et passim. - - [XIX-98] Lamprid. In Sever. - - [XIX-99] Martial, ad Gelliam. - - [XIX-100] Horat. Sat. lib. ii. 4. - - [XIX-101] Proverb, xxx. 26. - - [XIX-102] Martial. xiii. 60; Varro. R. R. iii. 12. - - [XIX-103] Plin.; Varro. - - [XIX-104] Bochart, De Animal. Sacr. Script iii. 31. - - [XIX-105] Strabo. Geograph. iii. - - [XIX-106] Galen. De Alim. Facul. iii.; Varro. R. R. iii. 12; Plin. - viii. 29. - - [XIX-107] Varro. R. R. - - [XIX-108] Plin. vii. 55. - - [XIX-109] Galen. De Alim. Facult. iii. - - [XIX-110] Athen. iv. 4. - - [XIX-111] Martial. - - [XIX-112] Aristot. Hist. Animal. vi. 26. - - [XIX-113] Athen. iv. 6. - - [XIX-114] Strabo. Geograph. - - [XIX-115] Photin. Biblioth. p. 1355. - - [XIX-116] Le Vaillant, Voyages, tom. ii. p. 27. edit. 18mo. - - [XIX-117] Id. Ibid. pp. 27 to 29. - - [XIX-118] Senec. Epist. 85, sub fin. - - [XIX-119] Id. De Brevit. Vitæ, cap. 13. - - -XX. - -FEATHERED GAME. - - [XX-1] Levitic. xi. 13 to 19. - - [XX-2] Clem. Alexandr. Stromat. vii. fol. 718. Lutet. 1629. - - [XX-3] Aristophan. In Avib. 532, et 1578. - - [XX-4] Plin. x. 51. - - [XX-5] Belon. Histoire des Oiseaux. anno 1555. - - [XX-6] Aristophan. In Avib.; Martial xiii. 72. - - [XX-7] Manilius, 370. - - [XX-8] Isidor. xii. 7. - - [XX-9] Calixen. apud Athen. xix. 8. - - [XX-10] Ptolem. Everget. Comment. xii. - - [XX-11] Aristophan. in Nubib. 109; Philoxen. ap. Athen. iv. 2. - - [XX-12] Athen. xiv. 9. - - [XX-13] Plin. x. 22; xi. 33, 37; xix. 4. - - [XX-14] Sueton. In Vespasian. - - [XX-15] Id. - - [XX-16] Lamprid. xxxvii. - - [XX-17] Sueton. In Caligul. 22. - - [XX-18] Id. Ibid. 30. - - [XX-19] Petrarca, De Remed. Dialog. xviii. - - [XX-20] Galen. De Aliment. Facult. et passim. - - [XX-21] Athen. ii. 12, et passim. - - [XX-22] Plin. iv. 48. - - [XX-23] Ælian. De Animal. Nat. ii. 1. - - [XX-24] Lamprid. In Sever. - - [XX-25] Aldrovand. Ornithol. xiii. 17. - - [XX-26] Athen. i. 6. - - [XX-27] Id. ix. 11. - - [XX-28] Bochart. De Animal. Script. part. ii. lib. i. cap. 19. - - [XX-29] Galen. De Part. Facili. cap. 155. - - [XX-30] Athen. loc. cit. - - [XX-31] Exod. xvi. 13. - - [XX-32] Athen. ii. 12; iv. 1. - - [XX-33] Aristophan. apud Athen. ix. 11. - - [XX-34] Aristot. Hist. Animal. ix. 8. - - [XX-35] Varro. R. R. iii. 5. - - [XX-36] Plin. ix. 23, 72. - - [XX-37] Galen. Epidemior. v. comm. 5, text 45. - - [XX-38] Apud Athen. xi. - - [XX-39] Aristot. Hist. Animal. ix. 8. - - [XX-40] Lucian. In Dialog. de Gymnasiis. - - [XX-41] Aldrovand. Ornith. xiii. 22. - - [XX-42] Quintilian. Institut. Orat. v. 9. - - [XX-43] Athen. ii. 12. - - [XX-44] Id. xiv. 6; Aristophan. In Avibus. - - [XX-45] Athen. iv. 1, et passim. - - [XX-46] Clem. Alexandr. Pædagog. ii. 1. - - [XX-47] Varro. R. R. iii. 2, 3. - - [XX-48] Id. i. 38. - - [XX-49] Id. iii. 5; Nonnius, ii. 29. - - [XX-50] Varro. loc. cit. - - [XX-51] Pers. Sat. vi. - - [XX-52] Martial. iii 51. - - [XX-53] Plaut. Triummo. act ii. sc. 4. - - [XX-54] Lamprid. Elogabal. - - [XX-55] Horat. Epist. xv. 41; Martial. xiii. 92. - - [XX-56] Plutarch. In Pompeio. - - [XX-57] Athen. ii. 12, et passim. - - [XX-58] Varro. R. R. i. 38; Horat. Epist. ii. - - [XX-59] Galen. De Cibis Boni et Mali Succi. i. - - [XX-60] Chroniq. Scandal. de Louis XI. - - [XX-61] Plin. x. 42. - - [XX-62] Athen. ii. 12. - - [XX-63] Galen. De Sanit. Tuendâ. xi. 16. - - [XX-64] Apicius, x. 48. - - [XX-65] Latinus Latinius; Bayle. - - [XX-66] Molière; Amphitryon. - - [XX-67] Kiranides. c. 7. - - [XX-68] Martial. xiii. 66. - - [XX-69] Sueton.; Lamprid.; Plin. x. 48. - - [XX-70] Histoire Générale des Voyages, tom. i. p. 269. - - [XX-71] Petron. c. 33. - - [XX-72] Aristot. Hist. Animal. ix. 49; Plin. x. 29. - - [XX-73] Athen. xiv. - - [XX-74] Martial. xiii. 48. - - [XX-75] Juvenal. xiv. 7. - - [XX-76] Varro. R. R. iii. 5. - - [XX-77] Id. Ib. - - [XX-78] Strabo. xvi. - - [XX-79] Marmol. Africa. - - [XX-80] Lamprid. In Elogab. - - [XX-81] Rosin. Antiquit. Roman. p. 207. - - [XX-82] Horat. Sat. lib. i. 2, 49. - - [XX-83] Nepot. Fragm. x. 1. - - [XX-84] Aristot. Hist. Animal. ix. 26. - - [XX-85] Varro. R. R. iii 9. - - [XX-86] Athen. i. 28. - - [XX-87] Plin. x. 22. - - [XX-88] Martial. xiii. 76. - - [XX-89] Antiphan. apud Athen. ii. 12. - - [XX-90] Ambros. In cap. i. Epist. ad Rom. - - [XX-91] Martial, xiii. 85. - - [XX-92] Aristot. Hist. Animal. - - [XX-93] Banier. Mytholog. tom. i. p. 354. - - [XX-94] Martial. v. - - [XX-95] Galen. De Simplic. Medic. Facultat. xi. 33. - - [XX-96] Suidas In Vitell. - - [XX-97] Nicolas, Etudes sur le Christianisme. tom. i. 254. - - [XX-98] Horat Sat. i. 3. - - [XX-99] Plutarch, Vita Caton. - - [XX-100] Id. Vita Flamin. - - [XX-101] Tacit. - - [XX-102] Nicolas, loc. cit. - - [XX-103] Plin. xxxii. 8; Cels. v. 6, 18; Dioscorid. - - [XX-104] Diction. d’ Hist. Nat. - - -XXI. - -FISH. - - [XXI-1] Columell. R. R. - - [XXI-2] Levitic. xi. 10. - - [XXI-3] Strab. xvii. 1. - - [XXI-4] Clem. Alexandr. Strom. vii. fol. 718; Lutet. 1619. - - [XXI-5] Athen. viii. 4. - - [XXI-6] Odyss. xii. 332. - - [XXI-7] Plat. De Republ. iii. - - [XXI-8] Athen. i. - - [XXI-9] Id. viii. - - [XXI-10] Lucian. Bion Praxis. - - [XXI-11] Athen. vii. 20. - - [XXI-12] Id. vi. 2. - - [XXI-13] Xenarch. Comic. Apud Athen. - - [XXI-14] Plutarch. Sympos. iv. 4. - - [XXI-15] Plin. xviii. 3. - - [XXI-16] Senec. Quæst. Natural. iii. 17, 18. - - [XXI-17] Juvenal iv. 11. - - [XXI-18] Plin. ix. - - [XXI-19] Cic. Epist. xx. ad Atticum. 1. - - [XXI-20] Plin. loc. cit; Dio Cassius, L. iv.; Senec. De Clement. i. 18. - - [XXI-21] Senec. De Ira. iii. 40. - - [XXI-22] Id. Ib. - - [XXI-23] Dio In Sever, xxi. - - [XXI-24] Règlements de St. Louis. - - [XXI-25] Edit sans date. - - [XXI-26] Lettres Patentes du 19 Mars, 1543. - - [XXI-27] Ib. du 16 Septembre, 1606. - - [XXI-28] The Popish Kingdome, fol. 55. - - [XXI-29] Delamarre. - - [XXI-30] Poésies des Troubadours. - - [XXI-31] Athen. vii. 6, 12; Macrob. Saturnal. iii. 16. - - [XXI-32] Athen. loc. cit. - - [XXI-33] Id. Ib. - - [XXI-34] Plin. ix. 17. - - [XXI-35] Martial. xiii. 91. - - [XXI-36] Dio liii. - - [XXI-37] Statutum de Prærogativa Regis; anno 17, Edward, ii. c. 11. - - [XXI-38] Sonnini, Poissons. tom. iv. p. 351. - - [XXI-39] Id. Ib. p. 341. - - [XXI-40] Id. Ib. - - [XXI-41] Diction. de la Conversation, tom. ii. 533. - - [XXI-42] Diction. d’Histoire Naturel. tom. x. p. 485. - - [XXI-43] Ib. - - [XXI-44] Athen. i. 11. - - [XXI-45] Senec. Quæst. Natur. iii. 17, 18. - - [XXI-46] Plin. ix. 30. - - [XXI-47] Horat. Sat. ii. - - [XXI-48] Martial. x. 31. - - [XXI-49] Juvenal. iv. 11. - - [XXI-50] Sueton. In Tiber. 34. - - [XXI-51] Senec. Epist. 95. - - [XXI-52] Galen. De Aliment. Facultat. - - [XXI-53] Plin. ix. 31. - - [XXI-54] Lamprid. Elogab. 20. - - [XXI-55] Apicius, ix. 13. - - [XXI-56] Id. Ib. - - [XXI-57] Athen. vii. 22. - - [XXI-58] Macrob. Sat. iii. 15; Ælian. Var. Hist. c. 173; Porphyr. De - Abstin. ab Animal. - - [XXI-59] Id. Ib. - - [XXI-60] Plin. x. 70; Lucian. De Deâ Syr.; Martial, x. 30. - - [XXI-61] Varro. R. R. iii. 2, 17. - - [XXI-62] Id. viii. 16. - - [XXI-63] Tertullian. De Pallio. - - [XXI-64] Geoponic. xx. - - [XXI-65] Varro. iii. 3; Platina, De Tuendâ Valetudin. - - [XXI-66] Sueton. In Vitel. - - [XXI-67] Lamprid. In Elogab. - - [XXI-68] Athen. i. 6. - - [XXI-69] Horat. Sat ii. ult. - - [XXI-70] Apicius, x. 8. - - [XXI-71] Galen. De Aliment. Facul. iii. - - [XXI-72] Herodot. ii. - - [XXI-73] Sonnini, Poissons, tom. vi. p. 51. - - [XXI-74] Id. Ib. p. 60. - - [XXI-75] Macrob. Saturnal. ii. 2. - - [XXI-76] Gessner, De Aquatilibus, iii. - - [XXI-77] Oppian. Halieuticon, x. - - [XXI-78] Pennant, British Zoology, vol. iii. p. 78. - - [XXI-79] Bloch. Ichtyologie: Lamproie. - - [XXI-80] Paolo Giovio. - - [XXI-81] Platina. - - [XXI-82] Id. - - [XXI-83] Athen. vii. - - [XXI-84] Id. Ib. - - [XXI-85] Plin. ix. 17. - - [XXI-86] Id. Ib. - - [XXI-87] Marlianus, Topographia, v. - - [XXI-88] Plato. apud. Athen. vii. 8. - - [XXI-89] Horat. Epod. ii. v. 49. - - [XXI-90] Athen. vii.; Martial xiii. 84. - - [XXI-91] Plin. ix. 17. - - [XXI-92] Aristot. ii. 17. - - [XXI-93] Ælian. i. 2. - - [XXI-94] Oppian. Halieut. iv, 78. - - [XXI-95] Horat. - - [XXI-96] Plin. ix. 42. - - [XXI-97] Juvenal. Sat. iv. - - [XXI-98] Id. Ib. - - [XXI-99] Berchoux, Gastronomie. - - [XXI-100] Clem. Alexandr. Pædagog. - - [XXI-101] Athen. i. 6. - - [XXI-102] Plat. apud Athen. vii. 8. - - [XXI-103] Strab. - - [XXI-104] Encyclop. Méthod. Antiquités. - - [XXI-105] Nonnius, Ichthyophagia, p. 9. - - [XXI-106] Aristot. Hist. Animal. viii. 13. - - [XXI-107] Plin. ix. 15. - - [XXI-108] Apicius, ix. 12. - - [XXI-109] Athen. - - [XXI-110] Id. - - [XXI-111] Plin. ix. 3. - - [XXI-112] Cetti, Pesce di Sardegna, p. 134. - - [XXI-113] Aldrovand. De Piscibus; Gessner, De Piscibus. - - [XXI-114] Eudox. apud Athen. vii. - - [XXI-115] Archestrat. apud Athen. Ib. - - [XXI-116] Philœmon. apud Athen. Ib. - - [XXI-117] Galen. De Aliment. Facult. - - [XXI-118] Plat. apud Athen. vii. 8. - - [XXI-119] Apicius, x. 2. - - [XXI-120] Paw. - - [XXI-121] Herodot. Hist. - - [XXI-122] Apollodor. In Chronic.; Plutarch. De Solert. Animal.; Ælian. - De Piscibus. - - [XXI-123] Athen. vii. - - [XXI-124] Agathiocid. apud Athen. - - [XXI-125] Macrob. Saturnal. ii. - - [XXI-126] Aristophan. In Lysistrat. 36. - - [XXI-127] Bulenger. De Conviviis. xi. 30. - - [XXI-128] Athen. vii. 12, 13. - - [XXI-129] Hippocrat. De Internis Affect. - - [XXI-130] Apud Athen. - - [XXI-131] Juvenal. Sat v.; Nonnius, iii. 5. - - [XXI-132] Apicius, x. 14. - - [XXI-133] Bloch. Ichtyolog. Anguille. - - [XXI-134] Plin. ix. 2. - - [XXI-135] Auson. Mosella. - - [XXI-136] Bloch. Ichtyolog. - - [XXI-137] Aristot. iv. 8; vi. 14; Athen. vii.; Plin. xxxii. 11. - - [XXI-138] Alexand. apud Athen. vii. - - [XXI-139] Apicius, iv. 2. - - [XXI-140] Bloch. - - [XXI-141] Id. - - [XXI-142] Plin. ix. 29. - - [XXI-143] Athen. vii. - - [XXI-144] Ælian. Hist. Animal. xvii. 1. - - [XXI-145] Varro. iii. 3.; Plin. ix. 17, 54. - - [XXI-146] Athen. - - [XXI-147] Macrob. Saturnal. iii. 15. - - [XXI-148] Plin. xxxii. 5. - - [XXI-149] Martial xiii. 90. - - [XXI-150] Festus. - - [XXI-151] Apicius, x. 12. - - [XXI-152] Rondelet. Poissons. - - [XXI-153] Athen. - - [XXI-154] Apicius, ix. 9. - - [XXI-155] Plin. ix. 17. - - [XXI-156] Athen. vii. 20. - - [XXI-157] Galen. De Aliment. Facult. iii. - - [XXI-158] Bloch.; Sonnini. - - [XXI-159] Aristot vi. 14. - - [XXI-160] Athen. - - [XXI-161] Id. - - [XXI-162] Auson. In Mosel. - - [XXI-163] Apicius, x. 6. - - [XXI-164] Lacépède, Poissons, tom iii. p. 131, note. - - [XXI-165] Plato apud Athen. vii. 8. - - [XXI-166] Dorion. apud Athen. vii. - - [XXI-167] Arist. Hist. Animal. ii. 5. - - [XXI-168] Plin. ix. 42. - - [XXI-169] Lacépède, Poissons, tom. iii. - - [XXI-170] Id. Ib. p. 117. - - [XXI-171] Salmo à Saltu; Olaus Magnus, xx. 3. - - [XXI-172] Auson. In Mosel. 97. - - [XXI-173] Plin. ix. 18. - - [XXI-174] Id. Ib. - - [XXI-175] Sir W. Scott, The Covenanters, vol. i. chap. viii. - - [XXI-176] Plin. ix. 29. - - [XXI-177] Apicius, ix. 4. - - [XXI-178] Athen. vii. 7; Aldrovand. iii. - - [XXI-179] Scholiast. Aristophan. In Equit. 768. - - [XXI-180] Auson. Mosel. 827. - - [XXI-181] Horat. Sat. ii. 2. - - [XXI-182] Apicius, x. 1. - - [XXI-183] Juvenal. xv. 317. - - [XXI-184] Apicius, ix. 11. - - [XXI-185] Athen. i. 6. - - [XXI-186] Vid. Ælian. Hist. Animal. xiv. 1. - - [XXI-187] Athen. i. 49. - - [XXI-188] Horat. Sat. ii. 8. - - [XXI-189] Plin. xxii. 11. - - [XXI-190] Id. Ib. - - [XXI-191] Auson. Mosel. 125. - - [XXI-192] Id. Ib. - - [XXI-193] Mnesim. apud Athen. ix. 15; Aldrovand. De Piscibus, ii. - - [XXI-194] Apicius, ix. 3. - - [XXI-195] Athen. vii. 22. - - [XXI-196] Galen. De Cib. Boni et Mali Succi. - - [XXI-197] Sonnini, Poissons, tom. iv. p. 143. - - [XXI-198] Aldrovand. De Piscibus, iii. 66. - - [XXI-199] Columell. viii. - - [XXI-200] Plin. xxxii. 11. - - [XXI-201] Athen. vii. 8; Aldrovand. ii. - - [XXI-202] Galen. De Aliment. Facult. iii. - - [XXI-203] Apicius, ix. 10. - - [XXI-204] Id. Ib. - - [XXI-205] Athen. i. 6. - - [XXI-206] Plutarch. De Superstit. - - [XXI-207] Apicius, iv. 2. - - [XXI-208] Anaximand. apud Athen. vii. - - [XXI-209] Martial. xiii. 88. - - [XXI-210] Plin. ix. 17. - - [XXI-211] Bosc. Hareng. - - [XXI-212] Sonnini, Anchois. - - [XXI-213] Dio. Caligul. - - [XXI-214] Athen. iii. 12. - - [XXI-215] Horat. Epod. ii. 49. - - [XXI-216] Athen. i. 6. - - [XXI-217] Apicius, ix. 14. - - [XXI-218] Id. ix. 7. - - [XXI-219] Macrob. Saturnal. - - [XXI-220] Lucilius, Sat. xiii. - - [XXI-221] Plutarch. Sympos. ix.; Senec. Epist 108. - - [XXI-222] Athen. iv.; Clem. Alex. Pædag. ii. - - [XXI-223] Athen. loc. cit. - - [XXI-224] Senec. Epist. 88. - - [XXI-225] Plin. xxxii. 6. - - [XXI-226] Juvenal. vi. 302. - - [XXI-227] Plin. loc. cit. - - [XXI-228] Athen. iv.; Macrob. iii. - - [XXI-229] Nonnins, iii. 36. - - [XXI-230] Plin. loc. cit - - [XXI-231] Id. ix. 54. - - [XXI-232] Plin. loc. cit; Varro. R, R. iii. - - [XXI-233] Plin. loc. cit. - - [XXI-234] Athen. i. xiii. - - [XXI-235] Senec. - - [XXI-236] Dio.; Sueton. - - [XXI-237] Athen. i. 6. - - [XXI-238] Id. Ib. - - [XXI-239] Auson. Epist. xiii. - - [XXI-240] Id. Ib.; Sidon. Apollinar. - - [XXI-241] Apicius, ix. 6. - - [XXI-242] Id. i. 12. - - [XXI-243] Athen. iii. 23. - - [XXI-244] Id. Ib. - - [XXI-245] Id. Ib. - - [XXI-246] Trallian. De Epilepsiâ. - - [XXI-247] Apicius, ix. 8. - - [XXI-248] Id. iii. 5. - - [XXI-249] Id. i. 29. - - [XXI-250] Athen. loc. cit. - - [XXI-251] Horat. Sat. lib. ii. 4. - - [XXI-252] Isidor. Origin. xii. 6. - - [XXI-253] Strabo. vii.; Plin. ix. 19. - - [XXI-254] Plin. Ib. - - [XXI-255] Ælian. De Animal. xii. 41. - - [XXI-256] Chiliad. - - [XXI-257] Plin. xxxii. 2. - - [XXI-258] Apicius, ix. 2. - - [XXI-259] Id. Ib. - - [XXI-260] Athen. i. 12. - - [XXI-261] Plin. ix. 2. - - [XXI-262] Juvenal. - - [XXI-263] Apicius, ix. 1. - - [XXI-264] Id. Ib. - - [XXI-265] Maton. Parog. apud Athen. - - [XXI-266] Ib. - - [XXI-267] Apicius, loc. cit. - - [XXI-268] Id. Ib. - - [XXI-269] Id. Ib. - - [XXI-270] Id. Ib. - - [XXI-271] Athen. i. 8. - - [XXI-272] Apicius, ix. 5. - - [XXI-273] Isai. xix. 8; Jerem. xvi. 16; Ezech. xlvii. 10. - - [XXI-274] Homer. Odyss. xxii. 384. - - [XXI-275] 944 years B.C. - - [XXI-276] Hesiod. Scut. Hercul. v. 212. - - [XXI-277] Plutarch. Sympos. - - [XXI-278] Ercolano. 1757, tom. i. Tavola, 36. - - [XXI-279] Varro. - - [XXI-280] Cic. Epist. lib. ii. ad Atticum. - - [XXI-281] Senec. Controv. v. 5. - - [XXI-282] Id. Epist. 100. - - [XXI-283] Id. Nat. Quæst. iii. 17. - - [XXI-284] Apicius, i. 2. - - [XXI-285] Galen. De Cib. &c. 15. - - -XXII. - -THE COOK. - - [XXII-1] Medicus ad Palatum. - - [XXII-2] Anton. Liberal. Fab. ii. - - [XXII-3] Senec. Epist. 95. - - [XXII-4] Dio In Neron. - - [XXII-5] Alexand. ab Alexandr. Genial. Dier. - - [XXII-6] Lex Fannia; L. Orchia; L. Cornelia, &c. - - [XXII-7] Martial. Domini debet habere gulam. - - [XXII-8] Athen. i. 31. - - [XXII-9] Homer. Iliad. - - [XXII-10] Evemer. apud Athen. xiv. 22. - - [XXII-11] Athen. vii. - - [XXII-12] Id. i. 8. - - [XXII-13] Id. Ib. - - [XXII-14] Id. Ib. - - [XXII-15] Plato. In Gorg. - - [XXII-16] Athen. i. 7. - - [XXII-17] Id. i. 9. - - [XXII-18] Id. i. 10. - - [XXII-19] Senec. Oculorum Gula. - - [XXII-20] Athen. xii. - - [XXII-21] Id. Ib. - - [XXII-22] Ælian. Var. Hist. i. 27. - - [XXII-23] Plutarch. Præcept. San. - - [XXII-24] Sueton. In Claud. 32. - - [XXII-25] Id. In Vitell.; Dio. - - [XXII-26] Id. Ib. - - [XXII-27] Sueton. In Tiber. 42. - - [XXII-28] Id in Galba. 22. - - [XXII-29] Spartian. In Vero. 5. - - [XXII-30] Id. In Getâ. - - [XXII-31] Taillevant. - - [XXII-32] Id. - - [XXII-33] Id. - - [XXII-34] Histoire dn Dauphiné. - - [XXII-35] Froissart, tom. iv. chap. 2. - - [XXII-36] Ecole de Salerne, &c. - - [XXII-37] Monteil, Histoire des Français, tom. ii. p. 68. - - [XXII-38] Mémoires de Lamarche. - - [XXII-39] Onuphr. Panvini. - - [XXII-40] Martial. vii. 30. - - [XXII-41] Varro. R. R. i. 2. - - [XXII-42] Petron. edit. Nodot. tom. i. p. 116. - - [XXII-43] Donat. In Adelph. act iv. sc. 2. - - [XXII-44] Juvenal. vii. 184. - - [XXII-45] Senec. Epist. 47. - - [XXII-46] Varro. De Vitâ Popul. Roman. i. - - [XXII-47] Vid. Lips. Saturn. ii. 2; Juvenal. v. 121. - - [XXII-48] Petron. c. 36; Senec. Epist 47. - - [XXII-49] Sidon. Apollin. ii. Epist. 9. - - [XXII-50] Ercolano. - - [XXII-51] Petron. c. 47. - - [XXII-52] Stephan. v. Foculus. - - [XXII-53] Horat. Od. i. 9, v. 5. - - [XXII-54] Juvenal. Sat. ii. 262. - - [XXII-55] Rosin. Antiquit. Roman. p. 237. - - [XXII-56] Aristophan. Vesp. act i. sc. 2. - - [XXII-57] Appian. Bell. Civil. iv. - - [XXII-58] Athen. i. 49. - - [XXII-59] Virg. Æneid. iii. 466. - - [XXII-60] Athen. i. viii.; Plin. xvi. 11. - - [XXII-61] Ercolano. - - [XXII-62] Ib. - - [XXII-63] Ib. - - [XXII-64] Lamprid. Elogab. 19; Cic. Pro Rosc. Amer. 133. - - [XXII-65] Encyclopéd. Méthod. Antiquités. - - [XXII-66] Galen. De Compos. Medicam. iii. 5. - - [XXII-67] Apicius, passim. - - [XXII-68] Ercolano; Varro. De L. L. iv. 27. - - [XXII-69] Encyclopéd. loc. cit. - - [XXII-70] Columell. xii. 46. - - [XXII-71] Apud Siracidem. xiii. 3. - - [XXII-72] Senec. Epist. 85. - - [XXII-73] Caylus, Antiquit. Romain. tom. i. - - [XXII-74] Plin. xxiii. 2. - - [XXII-75] Cato. R. R. 84. - - [XXII-76] Varro. De L. L. iv.; Plin. xxxiii. 4. - - [XXII-77] Ercolano; Winckelmann. - - [XXII-78] Petron. c. 33; Martial. xiv. 121. - - [XXII-79] Athen. i. 6. - - [XXII-80] Caylus, Recueil d’Antiquités, tom, iii. pl 84, no. 5. - - [XXII-81] Ercolano. - - [XXII-82] Ib. - - [XXII-83] Coel. Rhodig. xiii. 32. - - [XXII-84] Aristophan. In Avibus. 361. - - [XXII-85] Mat Régnier, Sat. x. - - [XXII-86] Cic. Tuscul. v. 21; Martial. xii. 67; Tit. Liv. xxxix. 6. - - [XXII-87] Athen. ii. 9. - - [XXII-88] Petron. Satyr. - - [XXII-89] Beyerlink. Theatr. Vitæ Human. - - [XXII-90] Cato. c. 74. - - [XXII-91] Plin. xviii. 11. - - [XXII-92] Pers. Sat.; Plin. loc. cit. - - [XXII-93] Plin. Ib. - - [XXII-94] Athen. iv. - - [XXII-95] Varro. R. R. iii. 14. - - [XXII-96] Plin. xviii. 24. - - [XXII-97] Id. Ib.; Veget. De Arte Vet. i. 52. - - -XXIII. - -SEASONINGS. - - [XXIII-1] Euseb. Præpar. Evang. i.; Polydor. Virgil. De Rerum. Invent. - iii. 5. - - [XXIII-2] Levitic. ii. 3. - - [XXIII-3] Diodor. Sicul. ii. 48. - - [XXIII-4] Galen. De Simplic. Medicam. - - [XXIII-5] Festus. - - [XXIII-6] Arnob. ii. - - [XXIII-7] Sallust. Bell. Tugurt. - - [XXIII-8] Athen. iii. 1. - - [XXIII-9] Tit. Liv. xi. 9. - - [XXIII-10] Plin. xxxi. 7. - - [XXIII-11] Lib. vi. F. F. De Captiv. et Post. - - [XXIII-12] Delamarre. - - [XXIII-13] Plant Pœnul. i. 2, 32. - - [XXIII-14] Columell. xii. 6. - - [XXIII-15] Plin. xxxi. 8. - - [XXIII-16] Vid. Scaliger.; Auson. Lect. ii. 28, p. 165. - - [XXIII-17] Pollux, vi. 9; Athen. x. - - [XXIII-18] Apicius. i. 27. - - [XXIII-19] Plin. xxxi. 3, 7.; xxxii. 11. - - [XXIII-20] Isidor. Origin. xx. 3. - - [XXIII-21] Plin. loc. cit. - - [XXIII-22] Id. xxxi. 43. - - [XXIII-23] Id. Ib. - - [XXIII-24] Martial. xiii. 102. - - [XXIII-25] Plin. xxxi. 8. - - [XXIII-26] Plin. à Lemaire. tom. viii. p. 439, note. - - [XXIII-27] Stephan. Thesaur. Ling. Græc. v. Garon. - - [XXIII-28] Id. Ib.; Geoponic. xx. - - [XXIII-29] Apicius; Plin. à Lemaire. tom. viii. p. 435, note. - - [XXIII-30] Plin. ix. 17. - - [XXIII-31] Id. viii. 31.; Nonnius. iii. 44.; Columell. vi 9. - - [XXIII-32] Geoponic. xx. - - [XXIII-33] Ib. - - [XXIII-34] Ib. - - [XXIII-35] Dioscord.; Stephan. loc. cit. - - [XXIII-36] Stephan. Ib.; Martial. viii. 26. - - [XXIII-37] Stephan. Ib. - - [XXIII-38] Galen. De Simplic. Medici, ii. - - [XXIII-39] Lamprid. Elogab. 29.; Apicius, i. 31. - - [XXIII-40] Apicius, i. 34. - - [XXIII-41] Id. i. 33. - - [XXIII-42] Id. i. 35. - - [XXIII-43] Judic. xiv. 18. - - [XXIII-44] Plin. xxii. 24. - - [XXIII-45] Geoponic. xv. 7. - - [XXIII-46] Ib. - - [XXIII-47] Plin. loc. cit. - - [XXIII-48] Apollod. ii.; Pausan. viii.; Plin. vii. 56. - - [XXIII-49] Genes. xliii. 11. - - [XXIII-50] Justin. xiii. - - [XXIII-51] Plin. xi. 13.; xxi. 10. - - [XXIII-52] Athen. iii. 25. - - [XXIII-53] Diog. Laert Vitæ Philosophor. viii. - - [XXIII-54] Athen. ii. 6. - - [XXIII-55] Fulgentius. De Obscuris Vocibus.; Arnob. - - [XXIII-56] Theophrast. De Melle. - - [XXIII-57] Virgil. Georg. iv. - - [XXIII-58] Plin. x. 5, 12. - - [XXIII-59] Galen. De Aliment. Facult. iii. - - [XXIII-60] Varro. - - [XXIII-61] Aristot. Hist. Animal. iii 10. - - [XXIII-62] Dioscorid. ii. 75. - - [XXIII-63] Id. Ib.; Plin. xxii. 24. - - [XXIII-64] Apicius, i. 1. - - [XXIII-65] Id. i. 32. - - [XXIII-66] Id. Ib. - - [XXIII-67] Theophrast. loc. cit. - - [XXIII-68] Dioscorid. ii. 75. - - [XXIII-69] Plin. xii. 8. - - [XXIII-70] Strabo. xv.; Senec. Epist. 64; Galen. De Simpl. Medic. vii. - - [XXIII-71] Panl. Æginet. De Ling. Asperitate, c. 2. - - [XXIII-72] Pancirol. Rerum Mirabilium, &c. ii. 5. - - [XXIII-73] Theophrast. Hist. Plant. iv. 6; ix. 4, 5.7. - - [XXIII-74] Herodot. Hist.; Aristot. Hist. Animal. ix. 14. - - [XXIII-75] Plin. xii. 19. - - [XXIII-76] Galen. De Antidotis. - - [XXIII-77] Id. De Simplic. Medic. vii. - - [XXIII-78] Mathiol. In Dioscorid. i. 13; anno 1570. - - [XXIII-79] Saint-Foix, Essais sur Paris. - - [XXIII-80] Plin. xii. 7. - - [XXIII-81] Theophrast. ix. 22. - - [XXIII-82] Dioscorid. ii. 153; Plin. xii. 27. - - [XXIII-83] Dioscorid. v. 6, et ibi Mathiol. - - [XXIII-84] Galen. De Simplic. Medicam. iv. v. - - [XXIII-85] Ruth ii. 12. - - [XXIII-86] Athen. ii. 26. - - [XXIII-87] Juvenal xiii. 85; Martial xiii. 122. - - [XXIII-88] Columell. xii. 17; Plin. xiv. 20. - - [XXIII-89] Dioscorid. v. 17; Galen. Simpl. Medic. i; Æginet. De Simpl. - p. 51. - - [XXIII-90] Spartian. In Hadrian. - - [XXIII-91] Columell. xii. 4. - - [XXIII-92] Salmas. Exercitat Plinianæ, p. 898; Plin. xx. 20. - - [XXIII-93] Amelot de la Houssaye, Mémoires Historiques. - - [XXIII-94] Athen. ii. 21. - - [XXIII-95] Plin. xix. 2. - - [XXIII-96] Id. xix. 3. - - [XXIII-97] Id. xix. 2. - - [XXIII-98] Dioscorides. - - [XXIII-99] Id. - - [XXIII-100] Athen. - - [XXIII-101] Philoxen. apud Athen. - - [XXIII-102] Athen. ii. 21. - - [XXIII-103] Martial xiii. 50. - - [XXIII-104] Apicius, i. 31. - - [XXIII-105] Id. Ib. - - [XXIII-106] Platina, De Honestâ Voluptate. - - [XXIII-107] Avicenn. - - [XXIII-108] Plin. xix. 2. - - [XXIII-109] Apicius, i. 25. - - [XXIII-110] Dio. In Claud. sub. fin. - - [XXIII-111] Id. Ib. - - [XXIII-112] Id. Ib. - - [XXIII-113] Senec. Epist. xcv. - - [XXIII-114] Id. Epist. cviii. - - [XXIII-115] Horat. ii. Sat. iv. - - [XXIII-116] Senec. Nat. Quæst. iv. 13, sub fin. - - [XXIII-117] Martial, xiii. 47. - - [XXIII-118] Athen. ii. 19. - - [XXIII-119] Id. Ib. - - [XXIII-120] Id. Ib. - - [XXIII-121] Id. Ib. - - -XXIV. - -PASTRY. - - [XXIV-1] Dictionnaire de la Conversation, tom. xlii. p. 344. - - [XXIV-2] Genes. xl. 17. - - [XXIV-3] Calmet. Bible, tom. vi. p. 257, fol.; Levit. ii. - - [XXIV-4] Athen. iii. 25. - - [XXIV-5] Id. Ib. - - [XXIV-6] Hesychius; Plin. viii. 2. - - [XXIV-7] Athen. iv. 14. - - [XXIV-8] Cic. Familiar. ix. 20. - - [XXIV-9] Levitic. ii. 5. - - [XXIV-10] Athen. xiv. 14. - - [XXIV-11] Id. Ib. - - [XXIV-12] Id. Ib. - - [XXIV-13] Lamprid. In Elogab. c. 27. - - [XXIV-14] Athen. - - [XXIV-15] Id. xiv. - - [XXIV-16] Juvenal. vi. 202. - - [XXIV-17] Cato. R. R. c. 84. - - [XXIV-18] Pers. vi. 50. - - [XXIV-19] Spartian. In Vero. 5. - - [XXIV-20] Cato. R. R. - - [XXIV-21] Fabri Thesaurus v. Placenta. - - [XXIV-22] Horat. Epist. i. 10, 11; Plin. vii. 53; Athen. ii. - - [XXIV-23] Plin. xviii. 11. - - [XXIV-24] Cato. R. R. - - [XXIV-25] Id. Ib. c. 80. - - [XXIV-26] Plin. xviii. 11. - - [XXIV-27] Apicius, vii 11. - - [XXIV-28] Id. Ib. - - [XXIV-29] Id. Ib. - - [XXIV-30] Id. Ib. - - [XXIV-31] Taillevant. - - [XXIV-32] Id. - - [XXIV-33] Id. - - [XXIV-34] Plutarch. Vita. Coriolan.; Plin. xxxvii. cap. ultimo. - - [XXIV-35] Polydor. Virgil. v. 2; Nouvelles Ephémérides: 6 Janvier. - - [XXIV-36] Tertullian. De Idolol. c. 14; S. Cyprian. Epist. 103; - Concil. Trull. can. lxii. - - [XXIV-37] Brand’s Popul. Antiquit. vol. i. p. 132, 133. - - [XXIV-38] Stuckius; Platina. - - [XXIV-39] Fontanon, Ordonnances. - - [XXIV-40] Delamarre. - - [XXIV-41] Taillevant. - - [XXIV-42] Id. - - [XXIV-43] Platina, De Honest Volupt. - - -XXV. - -WATER. - - [XXV-1] Aristot. Metaphys. i. 3; Senec. Nat. Quæst. iii. 13. - - [XXV-2] Herodot.; Cyrill. adv. Jul. - - [XXV-3] Strabo. - - [XXV-4] Jul. Firmicus, De Profan. Relig.; Athanas. orat. contra. Gent. - - [XXV-5] Banier, Mythologie, tom. iv. p. 279. - - [XXV-6] Id. Ib. - - [XXV-7] Virgil. Æneid. viii. 72. - - [XXV-8] Psalm. xciii. 4. - - [XXV-9] Pausan. - - [XXV-10] Tolosanus, In Syntag. Juris. i. 4; Sigonius, De Republ. - Athen. iv. - - [XXV-11] Plato. De Legib. vi. - - [XXV-12] 460 years B.C. - - [XXV-13] Plin. xxxi. 3. - - [XXV-14] Frontin. De Aquæduct. i.; Lips. De Magnitud. Rom. iii. - - [XXV-15] Eutrop. ii. 9. - - [XXV-16] Plin. iii. 15; Cassiodor. vii. ep. 6. - - [XXV-17] Plin. xxxi. 6. - - [XXV-18] In Tit. Liv. i. - - [XXV-19] Rosinus, Antiquit. Rom. p. 60. - - [XXV-20] Frontin. - - [XXV-21] Id. - - [XXV-22] Sueton. In. Aug. cap. 13. - - [XXV-23] Ingeniosa Sitis. Martial. xiv. 117. - - [XXV-24] Senec. Nat Quæst. iv. 13. - - [XXV-25] Ant. Marc. Salvin. in Lect. Acad. Furfur. - - [XXV-26] Senec. loc. cit. - - [XXV-27] Rosin. Ant. Rom. p. 403. - - [XXV-28] Gell. xix. 5; Plin. xix. 4. - - [XXV-29] Martial. xiv. 117. - - [XXV-30] Montfaucon. Antiquit. Expliq. - - [XXV-31] Sueton. In Domit. 21. - - [XXV-32] Id. Ib. - - [XXV-33] Martial. xii.; Juvenal. Sat. v. 60. - - [XXV-34] Athen. i. ii. - - [XXV-35] Dio. In Claud. - - [XXV-36] Antich. Ercolan. - - [XXV-37] Hippocrat. De Diæt. - - [XXV-38] Id. Ib. - - [XXV-39] Ib. - - [XXV-40] Cels. iv. 19. - - [XXV-41] Sueton. In August. - - [XXV-42] Plin. xix. 1. - - [XXV-43] Id. Ib. - - [XXV-44] Mémoires du Sire de Joinville. - - [XXV-45] Plin. xxi. 37. - - [XXV-46] Bory St. Vincent, Essai sur les Iles Fortunées, pp. 220 et - seqq. - - -XXVI. - -BEVERAGES, - -OF WHICH WATER IS THE FOUNDATION. - - [XXVI-1] Diodor. Sicul. iv. - - [XXVI-2] Herodot. ii. 77. - - [XXVI-3] Plin. xxii. 25; Columell. x. 116; Dioscorid. ii. 79, &c. - - [XXVI-4] Plin. loc. cit. - - [XXVI-5] Paw. - - [XXVI-6] Strab. - - [XXVI-7] Plin.; Strab.; Paw. - - [XXVI-8] Plin. - - [XXVI-9] Aristot. De Ebrietate. - - [XXVI-10] Eschyl. In Lycurgo. - - [XXVI-11] Sophocl. In Triptolemo. - - [XXVI-12] Antholog. Græc. - - [XXVI-13] Plin. xxii. - - [XXVI-14] Meibom. De Cerevisia, 6, 7; In Thesaur. Gronovii, tom. ix. - - [XXVI-15] Tacit. De Morib. German. c. 23; Plin. xiv. 22. - - [XXVI-16] Plin. Ib. - - [XXVI-17] Dioscorid. ii. 80, 81. - - [XXVI-18] Mallet, Northern Antiquities, 6. - - [XXVI-19] Cæsar. De Bell. Gall. - - [XXVI-20] British Cyclopedia. - - [XXVI-21] Ibid. - - [XXVI-22] Beckmann. Invent. tom. iv. - - [XXVI-23] Vol. xv. p. 201, Edinburgh, 1795. - - [XXVI-24] From a Manuscript, quoted by Strutt, Manners, &c. vol., iii. - pp. 72, 73. - - [XXVI-25] Stow’s Chronicles, p. 218. - - [XXVI-26] Holinshed, Descript. Brit. 94. - - [XXVI-27] Monteil, Histoire des Français, tom. ii. pp. 49, 50. - - [XXVI-28] Plin. - - [XXVI-29] Hippocrat. De Dentitione; Cels. iii. 7. - - [XXVI-30] Mercurial. Observ. iii.; Cœlius, xxx. 21. - - [XXVI-31] Spartian. In Hadrian. - - [XXVI-32] Plin. xiv.; Q. Curt. lib. xxiii. Hort. c. 16, ex Palladio. - - [XXVI-33] Dictionnaire des Origines. - - [XXVI-34] Plin. xiv. 16. - - [XXVI-35] Deuteron. xiv. 26; xxix. 6; et Bibl. Sacr. passim; - Ambrosius, De Helia et Jejun. c. 15; Hieron. ad Nepotian. - - [XXVI-36] Plin. xiv. 17. - - [XXVI-37] Id. Ib. - - [XXVI-38] Isidor. xx. 3. - - [XXVI-39] Id.; Paul. Æginet. - - [XXVI-40] Paul. Æginet. - - [XXVI-41] Dioscorid. v. 22; Pallad. August. 13. - - [XXVI-42] Columell. xii. 37; Pallad. xiii. 2. - - [XXVI-43] Discorid. v. 34; Plin. xiv. 16. - - [XXVI-44] Plin. Ib. - - [XXVI-45] Id. Ib. - - [XXVI-46] Id. Ib. - - [XXVI-47] Cœl. Rhodig. vii. 26; xxi. 7. - - [XXVI-48] Sueton. In Neron. c. 48. - - -XXVII. - -DRINKING CUPS. - - [XXVII-1] Clem. Alexandr. Pædagog, ii. 2. - - [XXVII-2] Homer. - - [XXVII-3] Eumen. Cardian. et Diodot. Erythræus, In Diariis Rerum ab - Alexandroe Gestarum. - - [XXVII-4] Theopomp. Hist. 26. - - [XXVII-5] Aristot. In Syracusan. Polit. - - [XXVII-6] Sueton. In Tiber. 42. - - [XXVII-7] Id. Ib. - - [XXVII-8] Athen. i. 30. - - [XXVII-9] Homer. Odyss. - - [XXVII-10] Hippocrat. De Diœt. iii. sub. fin. - - [XXVII-11] Senec. De Tranquillitate Animæ, sub fin. - - [XXVII-12] Plat. De Republ. ii. - - [XXVII-13] Athen. i. 21, 23. - - [XXVII-14] Id. xi. 14. - - [XXVII-15] Musonius, De Luxu Græcor. c. 2. - - [XXVII-16] Id. Ib. - - [XXVII-17] Strab. - - [XXVII-18] Cæsar. - - [XXVII-19] Id. - - [XXVII-20] Valer. iv. 3; Senec. Epist. 95. - - [XXVII-21] Ovid. Fast. iii.; Tibull. i. 10. - - [XXVII-22] Plin. xvi. 35. - - [XXVII-23] Id. Ib. - - [XXVII-24] Apul. Milesiar. ii. - - [XXVII-25] Plin. xxxvi. 26. - - [XXVII-26] Cœl. Rhodig. Antiq. Lection. xx. 30; Crinitus. Honest. - Disciplin. xxiii. 4; Douza. Comment. In Petron. - - [XXVII-27] Petron. à Nodot. tom. 1. pp. 198, 200. - - [XXVII-28] Plin. Præfat. ad libr. xxxiii. - - [XXVII-29] Rosin. Antiq. Roman. p. 398. - - [XXVII-30] 61 years B.C. - - [XXVII-31] Plin. xxxvii. 2. - - [XXVII-32] Id. Ib. - - [XXVII-33] Martial. xiv. 113. - - [XXVII-34] Scaliger. Exercitat. 92. - - [XXVII-35] Cardan. De Subtilit. v. f. 143. - - [XXVII-36] Mme. Dacier, Eutrop. Delphin. p. 104. - - [XXVII-37] Mariette; Caylus, &c. - - [XXVII-38] Propert. lib. 4, eleg. 5. - - [XXVII-39] Christius, De Murrinis, &c. Lips. 1743. - - [XXVII-40] Mongez. - - [XXVII-41] Montfaucon, Antiquit. Expliq. tom. ii. pl. 78 - - [XXVII-42] Apuleius; Sidon. Apollinar. carni. 24 in fine. - - [XXVII-43] Martial, viii. 51. - - [XXVII-44] Plin. xxxiii. 12. - - [XXVII-45] Id. Præfat. ad lib. xxxiii. - - [XXVII-46] Athen. xi. - - [XXVII-47] Montfaucon. Antiq. Expliq. - - -XXVIII. - -WINE. - - [XXVIII-1] Herod. ii.; Plutarch. De Isid. et Osirid. Diodor. iii. - - [XXVIII-2] Cic. De Natur. Deor. iii. - - [XXVIII-3] Theopomp. - - [XXVIII-4] Plutarch. - - [XXVIII-5] Aurel. Victor. - - [XXVIII-6] Eutrop. ix. 17. - - [XXVIII-7] Genes, ix. 20. - - [XXVIII-8] Plin. xiv. - - [XXVIII-9] Deuteron. xxii. 9. - - [XXVIII-10] Ib. xxii. 6. - - [XXVIII-11] Osee. xiv. 8. - - [XXVIII-12] Ezech. xxvii. 18. - - [XXVIII-13] Genes, xlix. 11; Jerem. ii. 21. - - [XXVIII-14] Psalm ciii. 15. - - [XXVIII-15] Calmet. Commentaire sur Esther. v. 6. - - [XXVIII-16] Cantic. viii. 2. - - [XXVIII-17] Herodot. i. - - [XXVIII-18] Id. Ib. - - [XXVIII-19] Banier, Mythologie, tom. i. p. 464. - - [XXVIII-20] Plutarch. De Isid. et Osirid. - - [XXVIII-21] Athen. xv. - - [XXVIII-22] Tit. Liv. - - [XXVIII-23] Horat. Epist. lib. ii. ad Torquat. - - [XXVIII-24] Serenus Sammonicus. - - [XXVIII-25] Euseb. In Chron. - - [XXVIII-26] Plin. vii. 56. - - [XXVIII-27] Diodor. Sicul. v. - - [XXVIII-28] Plutarch. De Legend Poet. - - [XXVIII-29] Plutarch. Sympos. iii. 10. - - [XXVIII-30] Hippocrat. De Diætet. - - [XXVIII-31] Id. Ib. - - [XXVIII-32] Herodot. iv. - - [XXVIII-33] Martial. viii. 26. - - [XXVIII-34] Horat. Od. ii. 11, 17. - - [XXVIII-35] S. Augustin. De Civ. Dei. xviii. 13. - - [XXVIII-36] Ovid. Fast. iv. 861, et seqq. - - [XXVIII-37] Plin. xviii. 19. - - [XXVIII-38] Banier, Mythol. tom. i. p. 548. - - [XXVIII-39] Columell. xi. 2; iv. 28. - - [XXVIII-40] Leg. Duod. Tabul. L. lxii.; Plin. xviii. 3. - - [XXVIII-41] Ulpian. - - [XXVIII-42] Apicius, i. 17. - - [XXVIII-43] Id. Ib. - - [XXVIII-44] Geoponic. vi. 11. - - [XXVIII-45] Ib.; Virgil. Georg. ii. 241. - - [XXVIII-46] Georg. ii. 7. - - [XXVIII-47] Athen. v.; Anacr. Od. xvii. - - [XXVIII-48] Columell. xii. 41. - - [XXVIII-49] Plin. xiv. 11; Athen. i. - - [XXVIII-50] Vitruv. xi. 9. - - [XXVIII-51] Longus. ii. 1, 2. - - [XXVIII-52] Cato. R. R. 12, 13, 18; Vitruv. vi. 6. - - [XXVIII-53] Le Pitture Antiche d’Ercolano, Napoli, 1757, tom. i; - Tavola, 35. - - [XXVIII-54] Varro. i. 54; Cato. 23. - - [XXVIII-55] Cic. De Clar. Orat. c. 83. - - [XXVIII-56] Nonnius, xvii. 13. - - [XXVIII-57] Geoponic. vi. 15. - - [XXVIII-58] Le Pitture, &c. loc. cit.; Athen. i. 31; Dioscor. v. 9. - - [XXVIII-59] Pallad. xi. 18. - - [XXVIII-60] Plin. xiv. 9. - - [XXVIII-61] Id. Ib. - - [XXVIII-62] Ib. ix. 57. - - [XXVIII-63] Id. xviii. 74. - - [XXVIII-64] Id. Ib. - - [XXVIII-65] Ovid. Fast. iv. 782; Festus, Burranica. - - [XXVIII-66] Geoponic. vi. 16; Plutarch. Quæst. Nat. 26; Plin. xiv. 11. - - [XXVIII-67] Geoponic. vi. 12. - - [XXVIII-68] Varro. R. R. i. 13; Geoponic. vi. 2, 12. - - [XXVIII-69] Le Pitture, &c. - - [XXVIII-70] Antiq. de Pomp. - - [XXVIII-71] Sponii, Miscell. Erud. Antiq. p. 125. - - [XXVIII-72] Id. Ib.; Juvenal, xiv. 311. - - [XXVIII-73] Plin. xiv. 21. - - [XXVIII-74] Geoponic. vi. 2; Varro. R. R. i. 13; Cato. R. R. 23. - - [XXVIII-75] Columell. xii. 25, 80; Cato. 107; Varro. i. 65; Geoponic. - iv. 12. - - [XXVIII-76] Id. - - [XXVIII-77] Id. - - [XXVIII-78] Geoponic. vii. 15; Columell. xii. 38. - - [XXVIII-79] Geoponic. vii. 22. - - [XXVIII-80] Ib. vii. 37. - - [XXVIII-81] Pollux, vi. 19; x. 75. - - [XXVIII-82] Geoponic. vii. 5, 6. - - [XXVIII-83] Horat. Art. Poet. v. 21. - - [XXVIII-84] Id. Od. i. 20. - - [XXVIII-85] Petron. 34. - - [XXVIII-86] Senec. Epist. 115; Columell. xii. 41. - - [XXVIII-87] Columell. i. 6; Horat. Od. iii. 8. - - [XXVIII-88] Plin. xiv. 4. - - [XXVIII-89] Id. xiv. 6, 29. - - [XXVIII-90] Id. xiv. 13. - - [XXVIII-91] Virgil. Georgic, ii. 91. - - [XXVIII-92] Horat. Epod. ix. 34. - - [XXVIII-93] Id. Sat. i. 10, 24. - - [XXVIII-94] Geopon. passim. - - [XXVIII-95] Plin. xiv. 6. - - [XXVIII-96] Id. Ib. - - [XXVIII-97] Id. Ib. - - [XXVIII-98] Id. Ib. - - [XXVIII-99] Id. xiv. et xxiii. - - [XXVIII-100] Athen. i. et ix. - - [XXVIII-101] Aristot. - - [XXVIII-102] Galen. - - [XXVIII-103] Petron. c. 34. - - [XXVIII-104] Plin. xiv. 4. - - [XXVIII-105] Martial, xi. 60. - - [XXVIII-106] Apul. Milesiar. ii. - - [XXVIII-107] Senec. Epist. 64. - - [XXVIII-108] Lucan. Pharsal. x. 164. - - [XXVIII-109] Athen. i. 47. - - [XXVIII-110] Id. Ib. - - [XXVIII-111] Id. Ib. - - [XXVIII-112] Id. Ib. - - [XXVIII-113] Apicius, i. 6. - - [XXVIII-114] Athen. i. - - [XXVIII-115] Plin. xiv. - - [XXVIII-116] Cato. R. R. - - [XXVIII-117] Plin. xiv. 8. - - [XXVIII-118] Id. Ib. - - [XXVIII-119] Museum Borbonicum. tom. iii.; Ta. vol. 28. - - [XXVIII-120] Plin. xiv. 9. - - [XXVIII-121] Varro. De Vitâ Pop. Rom.; Columell. R. R.; Martial, xiii. - 106; Juvenal. xiv. 270. - - [XXVIII-122] Columell. xii. 27. - - [XXVIII-123] Dio. Commod. - - [XXVIII-124] Macrob. vii. 12; Plin. xxii. - - [XXVIII-125] Leclerc, Histoire de la p. 479. - - [XXVIII-126] Geoponic. viii. - - [XXVIII-127] Ibid. - - [XXVIII-128] Apicius, i. 4. - - [XXVIII-129] Id. Ib. - - [XXVIII-130] Id. Ib. - - [XXVIII-131] Plin. xiv. 13. - - [XXVIII-132] Ercolano. - - [XXVIII-133] Plin. xxiii. 1. - - [XXVIII-134] Columell. iii. 3. - - [XXVIII-135] Bockh, Public Economy of Athens, vol i. p. 133. - - [XXVIII-136] Valer. Max. ii. 1. - - [XXVIII-137] Plin. xiv. 13. - - [XXVIII-138] Fab. Pictor. apud Plin. Ib. - - [XXVIII-139] Plin. Ib. - - [XXVIII-140] Id. xiv. 6. - - [XXVIII-141] Id. xiv. 28. - - [XXVIII-142] Athen. v. - - [XXVIII-143] Dio. Trajan. - - [XXVIII-144] Id. In Sever. - - [XXVIII-145] Sueton. In Claud. - - [XXVIII-146] Dio. Domitian. - - [XXVIII-147] Id. In Caligul. - - [XXVIII-148] Athen. i. 47. - - [XXVIII-149] Tibull. iii. eleg. 6; Martial, v. 65. - - [XXVIII-150] Athen. i. 48. - - [XXVIII-151] Plin. xiv. 16. - - [XXVIII-152] Plutarch. Sympos. viii. 6. - - [XXVIII-153] Festus. - - [XXVIII-154] Plin. loc. cit. - - [XXVIII-155] Id. Ib. - - [XXVIII-156] Id. Ib. Columell. xii. 35. - - [XXVIII-157] Plin. loc cit.; Columell. xii. 37. - - [XXVIII-158] Dioscorid. v. 13; Plin. loc. cit. - - [XXVIII-159] Meursius. - - [XXVIII-160] Plin. loc. cit. - - [XXVIII-161] Strutt, Manners and Customs of the Ancient Britons, vol. - 1. p. 7. - - [XXVIII-162] W. Malmsbur. De Pont. lib. iv. - - [XXVIII-163] Delamarre, Traité de la Police. - - [XXVIII-164] Id. Ib. - - [XXVIII-165] Id. Ib. - - [XXVIII-166] Mélanges Tirés d’une Grande Bibliothèque. - - [XXVIII-167] Ménage. - - [XXVIII-168] Arnaud de Villeneuve; Traité du Régime de la Santé. - - [XXVIII-169] Les Bigarrures du Seigneur des Accords. - - [XXVIII-170] Baluze. Capitul. Reg. Franc. passim. - - [XXVIII-171] Fontanon. Conf. des Ordon. tom. ii. p. 822. - - [XXVIII-172] Strutt, Manners and Customs, &c. - - [XXVIII-173] Id. Ib. - - [XXVIII-174] Id. Ib. - - -XXIX. - -REPASTS. - - [XXIX-1] Athen. i. 16. - - [XXIX-2] Id. i. 15. - - [XXIX-3] Homer. Iliad. - - [XXIX-4] Athen. i. 16. - - [XXIX-5] Aristot. Probl. xxvi. 45. - - [XXIX-6] Posidippus. In Epigr. - - [XXIX-7] Hierap. Theodor. de Certam. - - [XXIX-8] Ætol. Alexand. - - [XXIX-9] Theodorus. - - [XXIX-10] Xanthus, In Lydiacis. - - [XXIX-11] Theopomp. - - [XXIX-12] Clearch. - - [XXIX-13] Mnesimach, In Philippo. - - [XXIX-14] Crates Theban. In Lamia. - - [XXIX-15] Hecatæus apud Athen. - - [XXIX-16] Sueton, In Claud. 33. - - [XXIX-17] Id. Ib. - - [XXIX-18] Id. In Galba. 22. - - [XXIX-19] Id. In Vitell. 13. - - [XXIX-20] Virgil. Æneid. iii. - - [XXIX-21] Sueton. loc. cit. - - [XXIX-22] Id. In Vitell. 17. - - [XXIX-23] Fuller’s Worthies. - - [XXIX-24] Berchoux, Gastronomie, note. - - [XXIX-25] Athen. i. 19. - - [XXIX-26] Herodot. i. 63; Theophrast. Charact. c. 3. - - [XXIX-27] Plat. Epist. 7. - - [XXIX-28] Athen. i. 9. - - [XXIX-29] Id. Ib. - - [XXIX-30] Id. v. - - [XXIX-31] Plutarch. Sympos. viii. 6. - - [XXIX-32] Ecclesiast. x. 16. - - [XXIX-33] Mercurial. Variar. lect. iv. 17, In Arte Gymnast. i. 11. - - [XXIX-34] Homer. Odyss. - - [XXIX-35] Athen. i. 19; Aristophan. In Avib. 1286. - - [XXIX-36] Id. Ib.; Schrevelius; Plutarch. Sympos. viii. 6. - - [XXIX-37] Apuleius, Metam. i. - - [XXIX-38] Martial. xiv. 233. - - [XXIX-39] Apul. loc. cit. - - [XXIX-40] Sueton. In August. 76. - - [XXIX-41] Genes. xliii. 16. - - [XXIX-42] Act. x. 9, 10. - - [XXIX-43] Athen. i. 9. Plutarch. Sympos. viii. 6. - - [XXIX-44] Cic. Tusculan. Quæst. 5. - - [XXIX-45] Sueton. In Caligul. 58. - - [XXIX-46] Horat. Sat. i. 6. - - [XXIX-47] Senec. Epist. 84, 87. - - [XXIX-48] Sueton. In Claud. 32. - - [XXIX-49] Berchoux, Gastronomie, notes. - - [XXIX-50] Isidor. Origin. xx. - - [XXIX-51] Joseph. De Bello Jud. vii. - - [XXIX-52] Jud. xx. 26; II. Reg. i. 12; Ib. iii. 25. - - [XXIX-53] Biblia Sacra, passim; Iliad, ix. 206, 218; Odyss. xv. 322. - - [XXIX-54] Homer. Iliad. xxi. 363. - - [XXIX-55] Id. Ib. ix. 217. - - [XXIX-56] Id. Odyss. xvii. 455. - - [XXIX-57] Id. Iliad. vii. 480. - - [XXIX-58] Id. Ib. xii. 311. - - [XXIX-59] Id. Ib. ix, 225. - - [XXIX-60] Id. Odyss. i. 226; Terent. Eunuch. iii. 4; Athen. viii. - - [XXIX-61] Aristophan. Eccl. 652. - - [XXIX-62] Macrob. Saturnal. ii. 13; Val. Max. ii. 1. - - [XXIX-63] Biblia Sacra, passim. - - [XXIX-64] II. Reg. xix. 35. - - [XXIX-65] See La Farce de Pathelin. - - [XXIX-66] Mémoires de Dangeau. - - [XXIX-67] Plato. De Republ. iii. 13. - - [XXIX-68] Pollux, vi. 83. - - [XXIX-69] Martial. iv. 8. - - [XXIX-70] Juvenal. i. 95. - - [XXIX-71] Liv. ix. - - [XXIX-72] Sueton. in Vitell. 13. - - [XXIX-73] Nicolas, Etudes sur le Christianisme, tom. i. p. 254. - - [XXIX-74] Strabo; Diodor. Sicul.; Cæsar. - - [XXIX-75] Strutt, Manners, &c. vol. i. p. 48. - - [XXIX-76] Id. Ib. - - [XXIX-77] Id. Ib. p. 49. - - [XXIX-78] Plutarch. Sympos. i.; Xenoph. Respubl. Laced.; Plat. De - Conviviis. - - [XXIX-79] Exod. xxxii. 6; I. Reg. ix. 22, et passim. - - [XXIX-80] Philo. De Vitâ Contempl. - - [XXIX-81] S. Paul. I. Corinth, xi. 20, et seqq.; Chrysostom. Homil. - 27; Tertull. Apologet. c. 39; Augustin. Epist. 64; Baron. Annal. sub - an. 57, 377, 384. - - [XXIX-82] Plat. De Conviviis; Aristot. Polit. ii. 8; vii. 10. - - [XXIX-83] Xenoph. De Repub. Lac.; Plutarch. In Vita Lycurg. - - [XXIX-84] Plutarch. Ib. - - [XXIX-85] Diogen. Laert.; Plutarch. Vita Solon. - - [XXIX-86] Flor. i. 1; Liv. i. 6; Dionys. Halicarn. Ant. Rom. i.; - Plutarch. Vita Romuli. - - [XXIX-87] Plutarch. Vita Sullæ. - - [XXIX-88] Sueton. In J. Cæsar. - - [XXIX-89] Bulenger, De Conviviis. - - [XXIX-90] Id. Ib. - - [XXIX-91] Vid. Sueton.; Lamprid.; Dio. &c. - - [XXIX-92] Id. - - [XXIX-93] Apud Strutt, Manners, &c. vol. iii. p. 111. - - [XXIX-94] Monteil, Histoire des Français, tom. ii. p. 126. - - [XXIX-95] Id. Ib. tom. vii. p. 338, et seqq. - - [XXIX-96] See Piganiol, Description de la France. - - [XXIX-97] Holinshed, p. 969. - - [XXIX-98] Stow, Chron. p. 267. - - [XXIX-99] Id. Survey of London, p. 521. - - [XXIX-100] Strutt, Manners, &c. vol. ii. p. 104. - - [XXIX-101] Holinshed. Descrip. Brit. 94. - - [XXIX-102] Massinger, The City Madam. - - [XXIX-103] Id. Ib. - - [XXIX-104] Killigrew, The Parson’s Wedding. - - [XXIX-105] Strutt, Manners, &c. vol. ii. p. 19. - - [XXIX-106] Mathieu Paris, anno 1243. - - [XXIX-107] Stow’s Survey of London; apud Strutt, vol. ii. p. 19. - - [XXIX-108] Monteil, Histoire des Français, tom. i. p. 106, et seqq. - - [XXIX-109] L’Isle des Hermaphrodites. - - [XXIX-110] Contes d’Eutrapel. - - [XXIX-111] Ibid. - - [XXIX-112] Des Accords, Les Bigarrures, ch. 6. - - [XXIX-113] Aventures de Foeneste, liv. iv. ch. 2. - - -XXX. - -VARIETY OF REPASTS. - - [XXX-1] Biblia Sacra, passim. - - [XXX-2] Levitic. iii. 16. - - [XXX-3] Isai. xxv. 6. - - [XXX-4] Prov. xxi. 17. - - [XXX-5] III. Reg. iv. 22, 23. - - [XXX-6] Biblia Sacra, passim. - - [XXX-7] Ap. Ulric. Rasium, In Catal. Legg. Antiquar. ad Leg. Jul. de - Annonâ. - - [XXX-8] Plato. De Leg. vi. xxxiv.; Aristot. de Republ. iv. 4, 15; vi. - 8; Postel. De Magistrat. Athen. - - [XXX-9] Gorræi. Annal. - - [XXX-10] Accurs. - - [XXX-11] Rosin. Antiquit. Roman, p. 533. - - [XXX-12] Athen. i. 4. - - [XXX-13] Philostrat. - - [XXX-14] Athen. i. 5. - - [XXX-15] Id. v.; Homer. Virgil, passim; Banier; Stuckius. - - [XXX-16] Arnob. iii. - - [XXX-17] Varro. - - [XXX-18] Columell. - - [XXX-19] Senec. De Vitâ Beatâ, c. 11. - - [XXX-20] Liv. xxiv. - - [XXX-21] Plaut. Menech. i. 1, 25. - - [XXX-22] Tibull. i. 3. - - [XXX-23] Macrob. Saturnal. i. 7. - - [XXX-24] Horat. Od. ii. 14. - - [XXX-25] Varro. R. R. iii. 6. - - [XXX-26] Apul. Metam. iv. 152. - - [XXX-27] Sueton.; Lamprid.; Dio. - - [XXX-28] Plin. ix. 55. - - [XXX-29] Possidon. ii. - - [XXX-30] Crinit. De Honest. Discipl. xxiv. 5. - - [XXX-31] Spartian.; Stuckius. - - [XXX-32] Lucian. In Lapith. - - [XXX-33] Sueton. In Vitell. 13. - - [XXX-34] Plaut. Bacch. i. 1, 61. - - [XXX-35] Vatin. c. 12; Varro. apud Nonnium. i. 234. - - [XXX-36] Barthélémy, Anacharsis. - - [XXX-37] Pererius, Comment. In Daniel. - - [XXX-38] Athen. iv. - - [XXX-39] Polyæn. Strateg. vi. - - [XXX-40] Athen. ii. ix. - - [XXX-41] Id. iv. - - [XXX-42] Aristoph. Acharn. - - [XXX-43] Monteil. Histoire des Français, tom. i. p. 203. - - [XXX-44] Id. Ib. iii. p. 489. - - [XXX-45] Strutt. Manners, &c. vol. iii. p. 113. - - [XXX-46] From a Manuscript in the Harleian Library, quoted by Strutt, - Manners, &c. vol. iii. p. 114. - - [XXX-47] Taillevant. Le Viandier. - - [XXX-48] Id. Ib. - - [XXX-49] Id. Ib. - - [XXX-50] Id. Ib. - - [XXX-51] Id. Ib. - - [XXX-52] Id. Ib. - - -XXXI. - -THE DINING-ROOM. - - [XXXI-1] Valla. iv. - - [XXXI-2] Fest. Pomp. iii. - - [XXXI-3] Vid. Fabr. v. Solarium. - - [XXXI-4] Petron. Satyric. - - [XXXI-5] Ercolano, &c.; Gell’s Pompeiana, passim; Senec. Epist. 90. - - [XXXI-6] Sueton. In Neron. 31. - - [XXXI-7] Id. Ib. - - [XXXI-8] Id. Ib. - - [XXXI-9] Senec. De Tranquill. Anim. c. 9. - - [XXXI-10] Cornel. Nepos. - - [XXXI-11] Juvenal. Sat. ii. - - [XXXI-12] Athen. iii. 21; Gell. iii. 19. - - [XXXI-13] Athen. Lys. Frag. 46. - - [XXXI-14] Athen. Pollux, x. 122; Plat. Repub. iii.; Theophr. Charact. - 22. - - [XXXI-15] Juvenal, iii. 204. - - [XXXI-16] Encyclop. Méthod. Antiquit. - - [XXXI-17] Ib. - - [XXXI-18] Ib. - - [XXXI-19] Virgil. Æn. vii. 528. - - [XXXI-20] Monstrelet, Chroniques. - - [XXXI-21] Mélanges Tirés d’une Grande Bibliothèque. - - [XXXI-22] Ib. - - [XXXI-23] Chroniques de St. Denis. - - [XXXI-24] Vigiles de Charles VII. - - [XXXI-25] L’Isle des Hermaphrodites. - - [XXXI-26] Jerem. xxxvi. 22. - - [XXXI-27] Ercolano, &c. - - [XXXI-28] Plin. Epist. ii. 17. - - [XXXI-29] Apul. Metam. iv. - - [XXXI-30] Columell. ii. 22. - - [XXXI-31] Sil. Italic. Punicor. vi. - - [XXXI-32] Petron. à Nodot. tom. i. p. 116. - - [XXXI-33] Paulinus, Episcop. Nolæ. D. Felicis Natali, 6. - - [XXXI-34] Mercure Galant. Mars, 1681. - - -XXXII. - -THE TABLE. - - [XXXII-1] Athen. i. 20. - - [XXXII-2] Tibull. ii. 6; Valer. Flac. Argonaut. i. - - [XXXII-3] Plin. xxxiii. 11. - - [XXXII-4] Hom. Odyss, iii. 138. - - [XXXII-5] Athen. xi. 78. - - [XXXII-6] Athen. ix. 75. - - [XXXII-7] Homer. Odyss. iii. 354 et seqq.; 361 et seqq. - - [XXXII-8] Athen. xi. 27. - - [XXXII-9] Potter, ii. p. 377. - - [XXXII-10] Liv. ix. Decad. 4. - - [XXXII-11] Id. Ib. - - [XXXII-12] Plin. xvi. 27. - - [XXXII-13] Id. xiii. 15. - - [XXXII-14] Id. Ib. - - [XXXII-15] Id. Ib.; Senec. De Tranquil. Anim. c. i.; Id. De - Beneficiis, vii. 9. - - [XXXII-16] Plin. ix. 11. - - [XXXII-17] Id. Ib. - - [XXXII-18] Id. xvi. - - [XXXII-19] Fest. v. - - [XXXII-20] Varro. L. L. iv. - - [XXXII-21] Sidon. Apollin. Epist. ii. 2. - - [XXXII-22] Id. Ib. i. 11. - - [XXXII-23] Rosin. Ant. Rom. p. 377. - - [XXXII-24] Servius. Æn. i. ad finem. - - [XXXII-25] Homer. Odyss. i. 259; Pind. Olymp. i. 26. - - [XXXII-26] Martial. - - [XXXII-27] Apul. Milesiar. ii.; Basil. Magnus Orat. ad Divites. - - [XXXII-28] Plin. xiii. 15. - - [XXXII-29] Id. Ib. - - [XXXII-30] Id. Ib. - - [XXXII-31] Id. Ib. - - [XXXII-32] Stuckius. - - [XXXII-33] Id.; Calmet. - - [XXXII-34] Gregor. Tur. - - [XXXII-35] Eginhard. - - [XXXII-36] Polydor. Virgil, p. 257; Rapin De Thoiras. - - [XXXII-37] Varro. L. L. iv. 26. - - [XXXII-38] Printed A.D. 1508 - - -THE TABLE SEATS. - - [XXXII-39] Calmet. - - [XXXII-40] I. Reg. ix. 22.; xx. 25. - - [XXXII-41] Calmet. tom. v. fol. 256. - - [XXXII-42] Diodor, Sicul. - - [XXXII-43] Ercolano, tom. i. tav. 29; Athen. xi. 72. - - [XXXII-44] Athen. i. 31. - - [XXXII-45] Id. Ib. - - [XXXII-46] Id. Ib. - - [XXXII-47] Isidor. xx. 11. - - [XXXII-48] Valer. Maxim. ii. 1. - - [XXXII-49] Rosinus; Stuckius. - - [XXXII-50] Scholiast. Juvenal. Sat. v. 17. - - [XXXII-51] Rosin. p. 380. - - [XXXII-52] Athen. ii. 9. - - [XXXII-53] Martial. ii. 46. - - [XXXII-54] Id. iii. 49. - - [XXXII-55] Rosinus. - - [XXXII-56] Horat. Serm. ii. 3, 253. - - [XXXII-57] Stuckius; Rosinus; Ercolano, passim. - - [XXXII-58] Lambin. In Sat. iv. lib. ii.; Horat.; Mercurial. De Art. - Gymnast. - - [XXXII-59] Xenoph. De Pæd. Cyri, viii. - - [XXXII-60] Plutarch. Sympos. - - [XXXII-61] Lamprid. In Elogab. - - [XXXII-62] Spartian. In Vero. - - [XXXII-63] Lamprid. loc. cit. - - [XXXII-64] Id. Ib. - - [XXXII-65] Possidonius. - - [XXXII-66] Strabo. - - [XXXII-67] Diodor. - - [XXXII-68] Le Moine de St. Gal. - - [XXXII-69] Ménage. - - [XXXII-70] L’Isle des Hermaphrodites. - - [XXXII-71] Vie de St. Arnould. - - [XXXII-72] Mélanges Tirés d’une Grande Bibliothèque. - - [XXXII-73] Vita S. Berlandæ. - - [XXXII-74] Martial. xii. 29. - - [XXXII-75] Alain Chartier. - - [XXXII-76] L’Isle des Hermaphr. - - [XXXII-77] Martial. loc. cit. - - [XXXII-78] Plin. xxxv. 15; xxxvi. 19. - - [XXXII-79] Id. Ibid. - - -XXXIII. - -THE SERVANTS. - - [XXXIII-1] Gruterus, pp. 260, 966, 973. - - [XXXIII-2] Kipping. Antiquitat. - - [XXXIII-3] Dionys. Halicarnass. ii. - - [XXXIII-4] Exod. xxi. 6; Deuteron. xv. 17. - - [XXXIII-5] Juvenal. Sat. i. - - [XXXIII-6] Cœl. Rhodig. Antiquit. viii. 11. - - [XXXIII-7] Zachar. xiii. 6. - - [XXXIII-8] Plaut. Casin. act ii. sc. 6. - - [XXXIII-9] Gruterus, p. 596. - - [XXXIII-10] Petron. Satyric. - - [XXXIII-11] Columell. i.; Tibull. i. 7. - - [XXXIII-12] Vid. Pignorium, De Servis. - - [XXXIII-13] Id. Ib.; Petron. loc. cit. - - [XXXIII-14] Senec. Epist. 47. - - [XXXIII-15] Plin. xxxv. 10; Senec. De Irâ. iii. 37. - - [XXXIII-16] Pignor. loc. cit. - - [XXXIII-17] Sueton. In Domit. 16; Capitol. Pertin. 4. - - [XXXIII-18] Hildebrand. Compend. Antiquit. Rom. - - [XXXIII-19] Plin. xxxii. 6; Petron. c. 47. - - [XXXIII-20] Petron. c. 35. - - [XXXIII-21] Id. c. 36. - - [XXXIII-22] Philo. De Vitâ Contemplativâ. - - [XXXIII-23] Plaut. Trin. ii. 1, 22. - - [XXXIII-24] Propert. ii. 25, 11. - - [XXXIII-25] Terent. Eunuch, iii. 5, 47; Fulv. Ursin. In Appendic. ad - Ciaccon. - - [XXXIII-26] Plaut. Most. iv. 1, 24; Terent. Adelphi. 12. - - [XXXIII-27] Pignorius; Sueton, In Claud. 44. - - [XXXIII-28] Petron. c. 22; Pignorius. - - [XXXIII-29] Senec. Epist. 29; Lips. Elector, i. 19. - - [XXXIII-30] Ulpian. L. i. § 5, Dig. De Naut. Caupon. et Stabular. - - [XXXIII-31] Id. Dig. xxxviii. t. 7, L. viii. Fin. § 1. - - [XXXIII-32] Stuckius. - - -XXXIV. - -THE GUESTS. - - [XXXIV-1] Genes. xliii. et passim. - - [XXXIV-2] Schol. Theocrit. In Idyll. vii. 24; Plut. Sympos. viii. 6. - - [XXXIV-3] Athen. i. 21. - - [XXXIV-4] Id. i. 23. - - [XXXIV-5] Homer. - - [XXXIV-6] Athen. i. 19. - - [XXXIV-7] Id. i. 7. - - [XXXIV-8] Xenoph. De Republ. Laced.; Plut. Vita Lycurg. - - [XXXIV-9] Athen. i. - - [XXXIV-10] Plutarch. Sympos. - - [XXXIV-11] Apul. Milesiar. x. - - [XXXIV-12] Macrob. Saturnal. iii. 17. - - [XXXIV-13] Gell. xiii. 11; De Num. Conviv. - - [XXXIV-14] Macrob. loc. cit. - - [XXXIV-15] Sammonic. Severus; Macrob. loc. cit. - - [XXXIV-16] Plaut.; Horat. - - [XXXIV-17] Plaut. - - [XXXIV-18] Athen. vi. 5; Terent. Eunuch, ii. 2, 13, et 16. - - [XXXIV-19] Virg. Æn. i.; Plaut. Pers. v. 2; Athen. xiv. - - [XXXIV-20] Genes. xviii. 4; xix. 2; Judic. xix. 21; Luc. vii. 44; 1 - Timoth. v. 10, et passim. - - [XXXIV-21] Tibull. Eleg. iv. 6. - - [XXXIV-22] Marc. xiv. 3. - - [XXXIV-23] Horat. Od. iii. 14; Anacr. passim. - - [XXXIV-24] Plin. xiv. 22; Plut. Sympos.; Athen. x. - - [XXXIV-25] Strutt, Anglo-Saxons, vol. i. p. 49. - - [XXXIV-26] Id. Ib. p. 48. - - [XXXIV-27] Froissard. - - [XXXIV-28] Saint-Foix, Essais sur Paris. - - [XXXIV-29] Laneham, Sports exhibited at Kenilworth. - - [XXXIV-30] Johan. Sarisburiensis, i. 8, p. 34. - - [XXXIV-31] Saint-Foix, Essais, tom. iv. p. 135. - - [XXXIV-32] Herodot. ii. - - [XXXIV-33] Sapient. iii. 4. - - -XXXV. - -A ROMAN SUPPER. - - [XXXV-1] Genes, xviii.; Esther, v.; Matth. xxii. - - [XXXV-2] Plin. xxxv. 10. - - [XXXV-3] Mercurial. De Arte Gymnast, p. 94, edit. Frisii; Apul. - Metamorph. v. In Principio; Id. lib. iv. Asini. - - [XXXV-4] Apul. loc. cit. - - [XXXV-5] Leclerc, Histoire de la Médecine, p. 573. - - [XXXV-6] Apul. lib. i. Apologiæ Suæ, ex Catull. - - [XXXV-7] Sammonic. Seren. De Medicinâ, c. 15. - - [XXXV-8] Plaut. In Captivis, act i. sc. 2, v. 84. - - [XXXV-9] Martial. v. 44. - - [XXXV-10] Plin. vii. 60. - - [XXXV-11] Id. xxxvi. 10. - - [XXXV-12] Turneb. Adversar. xxiii. 19; xxvii. 18. - - [XXXV-13] Theophrast. Charact. 20. - - [XXXV-14] Virgil. Æn. i. v. 729. - - [XXXV-15] Montfaucon, Antiq. Expl. - - [XXXV-16] Petron. à Nodot. tom. i. p. 122. - - [XXXV-17] Plutarch. Problem. Romanor. 76. - - [XXXV-18] Petron. loc. cit. - - [XXXV-19] Terent. Heautontimor. act i. sc. 1. - - [XXXV-20] Octav. Ferrarius, De Re Vestiariâ, i. 31. - - [XXXV-21] Le Pitture Antiche d’Ercolano, tom. i. tav. 14. - - [XXXV-22] Dio. lxix. - - [XXXV-23] Senec. De Vitâ Beatâ; Tibull. iv. 6; Psalm. passim. - - [XXXV-24] Sil. Ital. Punicor. vi. - - [XXXV-25] Petron. Conviv. Trimalcion. - - [XXXV-26] Just. Lips. - - [XXXV-27] Juvenal. Sat. xi. - - [XXXV-28] Pacatus. - - [XXXV-29] Vitruv. Architect. v. 8. - - [XXXV-30] Quintilian. Institut. Orator. i. 14. - - [XXXV-31] Valer. Maxim, ii. 1. - - [XXXV-32] Arnob. ii. - - [XXXV-33] Id. Ib. - - [XXXV-34] Quintilian. Declamat. 301. - - [XXXV-35] Juvenal. Sat. v. 32; vi. 154. - - [XXXV-36] Terent. Eunuch, act. i. sc. 2, v. 85. - - [XXXV-37] Virgil. Æn. v. - - [XXXV-38] Cic. ad Familiar. ix. 20. - - [XXXV-39] Horat. Sat. ix. 8, 9. - - [XXXV-40] Petron. à Nodot. tom. i. p. 124. - - [XXXV-41] Id. Ib. - - [XXXV-42] Id. Ib. - - [XXXV-43] Apicius, ii. 1. - - [XXXV-44] Id. Ib. - - [XXXV-45] Id. Ib. - - [XXXV-46] Petron. p. 128. - - [XXXV-47] Athen. iv. - - [XXXV-48] Id. Ib. - - [XXXV-49] Id. Ib. - - [XXXV-50] Petron. tom. i. p. 130. - - [XXXV-51] Alex. Trallian. lib. Problem 1. - - [XXXV-52] Aul. Gell. xv. 2. - - [XXXV-53] Plutarch. Sympos. i. Quæst. 4. - - [XXXV-54] Martial. vi. 89. - - [XXXV-55] Id. iii. 8. - - [XXXV-56] Lucan. Pharsal. lib. iii. carm. 14. - - [XXXV-57] Athen. iii. 21. - - [XXXV-58] Virgil. Georg. ii. 528. - - [XXXV-58A] Macrob. Saturnal. ii. 9. - - [XXXV-59] Martial. xiii. 52. - - [XXXV-60] Plin. - - [XXXV-61] Martial. iii. 5. - - [XXXV-62] Id. xiii. 71. - - [XXXV-63] Juvenal. i. 141. - - [XXXV-64] Petron. à Nodot, tom. i. p. 136. - - [XXXV-65] Martial. xiii. 44. - - [XXXV-66] Id. xiii. 56. - - [XXXV-67] Id. xiii. 55. - - [XXXV-68] Petron. tom. i. p. 130. - - [XXXV-69] Id. p. 136. - - [XXXV-70] Martial. iii. 82. - - [XXXV-71] Id. Ib. - - [XXXV-72] Horat. Sat. ii. 8, 86. - - [XXXV-73] Petron. p. 138. - - [XXXV-74] Martial. i. 62. - - [XXXV-75] Petron. p. 132. - - [XXXV-76] Id. Ib. - - [XXXV-77] Virgil. Æn. ii. 49. - - [XXXV-78] Plaut. Cur. i. 3, 15. - - [XXXV-79] Encyclop. Méthod. Antiquités. - - [XXXV-80] Plaut. In Sticho. - - [XXXV-81] Sueton. In Galba. - - [XXXV-82] Juvenal. Sat. xi. - - [XXXV-83] Gell. xiii. 11. - - [XXXV-84] Martial. v. 79. - - [XXXV-85] Fest. Paniroll. tom. ii. tit. 2, De Porcellanis. - - [XXXV-86] Nicephor. Gregoras; Manilius; Nicetas; Vopiscus. - - [XXXV-87] Casaub. In Athen. i. 15. - - [XXXV-88] Xenoph. In Conviv. - - [XXXV-89] Herodot. vi. 129. - - [XXXV-90] Xenoph. loc. cit.; Caylus, Recueil d’Antiquités. tom. i. p. - 202. - - [XXXV-91] Caylus, Ib.; Athen. iv. - - [XXXV-92] Socrat. In Conviv. Xenoph. - - [XXXV-93] Horat. Sat. lib. ii. 7, v. 82. - - [XXXV-94] Caylus, tom. iv. pl. 80, No. 1; tom. vi. pl. 90, No. 3; tom. - vii. p. 164. - - [XXXV-95] Vet. Scholiast. Juvenal. ad v. 162, sat. 11. - - [XXXV-96] Rosinus, Antiquit. Roman. p. 391. - - [XXXV-97] Macrob. Saturnal. ii. 1. - - [XXXV-98] Rosinus, Ib. - - [XXXV-99] Id. p. 410. - - - - -TABLE OF RECIPES - -OF - -Ancient Cookery, and for the making of various Dishes. - - - Page - OXEN. - - Care taken of oxen at the plough 14 - Greek and Roman manure 14 - - - CEREALS. - - How to keep corn any length of time 15 - Marshal Vanban’s method for using - corn in soup 15 - - Rural occupation of the Anglo-Saxons - throughout the year 17, 18 - - - BREAD. - - Bread made of spelt 19 - Granea porridge 20 - Avena oats for cattle and porridge 20 - Seor bread 31 - Azumos biscuit 33 - Artolaganos biscuit 33 - Escarites 33 - Melitates 33 - Tyrontes 33 - Method of making leaven 36 - Autopyron bread 37 - Athletæ’s bread 37 - Cappadocian ditto 38 - Artoplites ditto 38 - Astrologicus ditto 38 - Panis madidus paste 38 - Various kinds of bread made in Paris - in the 14th century 40 - Alphiton, or barley gruel 41 - Another sort 42 - How to obtain the flavour of vanille from - oats, and make an excellent cream 42 - Rice good in consumption and spitting - of blood 43 - Carthaginian pudding 44 - Indian corn hasty pudding 44 - - - SEEDS. - - Mustard, its influence and qualities 46 - Coriander, its properties 47 - Lupin, fit for fattening cattle 47 - - - VEGETABLES. - - Method of preserving vegetables 51 - Twelfth-Night cake 54 - Haricots preserved 56 - Apicius’s method of dressing cabbages 61 - Dried cauliflowers 61 - Beet, its medicinal qualities 62 - Apicius, on stewing the beet 63 - Beet-root as a salad 63 - Mallows as a salad 64 - How to keep asparagus several days 65 - How to cook the gourd 66, 67 - Turnips, how to dress 67 - Carrots as a salad, and otherwise 68 - Purslaine, its internal use 69 - Sorrel, stewed 69 - Method of rendering artichoke mild 71 - Way of dressing 71 - How to preserve them 71 - Pompion, how to dress it; three recipes 72 - Cucumber; four recipes 73 - Apicius’s œnogarum 73 - Lettuce, method of cultivation by Aristoxenus 74 - How to dress lettuces 75 - Endives, way of stewing them 76 - Onions, stewed 76 - Leeks, stewed 77 - Radishes, how to preserve them 79 - Horse-radish, its virtues 81 - Garlic, its qualities 82 - Parsley, stewed 82 - Chervil, how used 84 - Water-cress, its properties 85 - - - PLANTS USED IN SEASONING. - - Poppy, how used 86 - Sow-thistle, good for rabbits 87 - Rocket, good for removing freckles 87 - Fennel, good for strengthening the sight 88 - Dill, its qualities 88 - Anise-seed, its properties 88 - Hyssop, good for cutaneous eruptions 89 - Wild marjoram, a most delicate condiment, - &c. 89 - Savory, its usefulness 89 - Thyme, its culinary value 89 - Wild thyme, efficacious, for the bite of - serpents 89 - Sweet marjoram, oil extracted from it 89 - Pennyroyal, a digestive 90 - Rue, a cure for the ear-ache 90 - Mint, a preservative against curdling - of milk 90 - Assafœtida, chewed by the Persians - and Indians 92 - Ginger, an aperitive good for the - scurvy and the chest 92 - Wormwood, good for giddiness 93 - - - STONE FRUIT. - - Olive tree, preparation of its fruit 98 - ---- and qualities 99 - Dates, their various uses 101 - Peaches, how to preserve them 104 - - - PIP FRUIT. - - Quinces, how to preserve them 107 - Pears, strengthening qualities 107 - Lemons, method of preserving 110 - Mulberry, a beneficent fruit, agreeable - to the stomach, and digestible 116 - - - SHELL FRUIT. - - Almonds, how to dress them, and their - various properties 117 - Walnuts, considered astringent, stomachic, - an antidote to poison, and digestible 119 - Pistachios, good however dressed 121 - Chesnuts, how to preserve 122 - Pomegranate, preserving 123 - - - REARING OF CATTLE. - - Oxen, how to fatten them 128 - Method of salting and preserving meat 131 - - - THE PIG. - - Hog à la Troyenne 136 - Apician brine, for salting pork 138 - Apician pork 138 - Macedonian pork 138 - Stuffed sucking pig 139 - Aristoxenic ham 139 - Lucullian ham 139 - Ventre de truie à la Troyenne 139 - Ditto à la Romaine 139 - Fillet of pork à la Bœotienne 139 - Tétines de truie à la Salienne 140 - Ditto à la Flamine 140 - Olympian pig’s liver 140 - Capitolian pig’s liver 140 - Campanian bacon 140 - Quenelles of pig’s liver and brains 140 - Lucanian sausages 140 - Imperial sausages 141 - - - THE OX. - - Beef à l’Ibérienne 144 - Stewed beef à la Sarmate 144 - Dish of veal à la Syracusaine 144 - Noix de veau à la Tarantaise 144 - Cisalpine preserve 145 - - - THE LAMB. - - Lamb’s head à la Quirinale 147 - Quarter of lamb à l’Esquilon 147 - Palatine broil 147 - Roast lamb à la Phrygienne 147 - Lamb à la Trimalcion 147 - - - THE KID. - - Kid à la Trans-Tibérienne 149 - Roast Kid à la Janiculum 149 - Kid à la Tarpéienne 149 - Kid à la Tivoli 149 - Kid à la Mélisienne 149 - - POULTRY. - - Capon à la Déliaque 155 - - - THE HEN. - - Poularde à la Viminale 156 - - - THE CHICKEN. - - Apician Macedonia of chicken 157 - Parthian chicken 157 - Numidian chicken 157 - Chicken à la Frontonienne 157 - Chicken à la Cœlienne 157 - - - THE DUCK. - - Ducks’ brains à l’Epicurienne 159 - Apicius’s seasoning for wild duck 159 - - - THE GOOSE. - - Sejus’s seasoning 161 - Apician seasoning for roast goose’s - liver 161 - Boiled goose à la Gauloise 161 - - - THE PIGEON. - - Roast pigeon, with Servilian seasoning 163 - - - THE GUINEA HEN. - - Guinea hen à la Numide 163 - - - THE TURKEY HEN. - - Turkey à l’Africaine 165 - How to fatten turkey 165 - Turkey’s eggs more delicate than hen’s - eggs 166 - How to preserve turkey 166 - - - THE PEACOCK. - - Peacock of Samos 167 - - - MILK, BUTTER, CHEESE, AND - EGGS. - - - MILK. - - Hygeian qualities of milk 169 - Asses’ milk, good in weak constitutions 169 - Macédoine Germanique of milk 170 - - - BUTTER. - - Method of preserving butter 172 - Method of preventing rancidity 172 - - - CHEESE. - - Salad of cheese, à la Bithynienne 174 - Dish of Tromelian cheese 174 - Cheese of Rouergue 174 - - - EGGS. - - Eggs à la Romaine 177 - Hard eggs à l’Athénienne 177 - Fried eggs à l’Epœnète 177 - Egyptian egg pudding 177 - Lesbian eggs aux roses 177 - - - THE STAG. - - Quarter of stag roast à l’Nêméenne 183 - Shoulder of stag à l’Hortensius 183 - Fillet of stag à la Persane 183 - - - THE ROEBUCK. - - Roebuck with spikenard 184 - Roebuck aux prunes 184 - Roebuck aux Amandes de Pin 184 - - - THE DEER. - - Deer à la Marcellus 185 - - - THE WILD BOAR. - - Wild boar à la Troyenne 185 - Wild boar à la Pompée 187 - Quarter of wild boar à la Thebaine 187 - Fillet of wild boar à la Macédonienne 187 - Wild boar’s liver à la Grecque 187 - Wild boar’s head à la Cantabre 187 - Green ham of wild boar à la Gauloise 187 - - - ELEPHANT. - - Elephant’s feet roasted 192 - - - FEATHERED GAME. - - Pheasant’s flesh, good for weak stomachs 195 - Starling, a nourishing and light food 200 - Fig-pecker, an exquisite bird 203 - Ortolan, has the same reputation 203 - Ostrich, fatted and salted 203 - Ostrich’s eggs, enormous, how to cook - them 204 - Ostrich’s fat, used in the preparation of - dishes; cures rheumatism and paralysis 204 - Salangan’s nest, a delicious seasoning 205 - Salangan’s nest, good for exhaustion and - debile stomachs 205 - Salangan’s nest, makes a fortifying - pottage 206 - Snipe, delicate savour of the fat 207 - Snipe, how to find, when in perfection 207 - Lark, its supposed property 207 - The common lark, wholesome and - delicate 237 - - - FISH. - - Caviar, how manufactured 217 - Mullet, way of dressing 219 - Lamprey, Italian method of cooking 223 - Scarus, an epicurean dish 224 - Conger-eel, how dressed 226 - Eel, Apicius’s recipe 227 - Pike, preserved 228 - Carp, curious way of dressing 229 - Eel-pout, how to dress the liver 229 - Trout, dressed as the preceding 230 - Gold-fish, how served 230 - Whiting, manner of cooking 231 - Cod-fish, how cooked by the Greeks 231 - Perch, way of dressing 232 - Scates, the eggs excellent for intermittent - fever 233 - Sepia, Apicius’s recipe 234 - Swordfish, how dressed by the Greeks 234 - Shad, way it is cooked 234 - Rhombo, a delicate fish, how dressed 235 - Mugil, how prepared 235 - Loligo, how prepared 237 - Sole, a nourishing and light food 237 - Pilchard, way of cooking 238 - Loach, how dressed 238 - Gudgeons, how dressed 239 - Herring, methods of preserving 240 - Anchovy, how salted and how dressed 241 - Emphractum stew 242 - Oysters, how dressed at Rome 243 - Oysters, how preserved 244 - Sea-hedgehog, way of cooking 245 - Mussel, how dressed 245 - Tortoise, the blood supposed to cure - diseases of the eyes, how dressed 246 - Sea crayfish, Roman way of dressing 247 - Lobster, how cooked 248 - River crayfish, how dressed and preserved 248 - Crab sausages 248 - Frogs, how dressed 249 - Preserving of fish 251 - - - SAUCE AND SEASONING. - - Sauce à la Cameline 258 - Tence sauce 258 - Brine, how made 269 - Digestive salt, how made 269 - Garum, various recipes 270 & 271 - Digestive garum (Apicius) 272 - Wonderful seasoning of Apicius 274 - Oxyporon seasoning 274 - Honey, its medicinal properties 276 - Cinnamon, its medicinal properties 276 - Greek and Roman pickles 278 - Truffles, Apicius’s method of preparing 280 - Syrup of truffles, how made 280 - Truffles, medicinal quality 281 - Truffles, how to preserve 281 - The Emperor Verus’s pie, how made 287 - Cato’s cake, how made 287 - Ancient pie, the placenta, how made 287 - Globi, method of making 288 - Apicius’s globi, three recipes 289 - Original pastry, its progress, how made 291 - Darioles, how composed 292 - Curious tarts 292 - - - WATER. - - Aristotle’s method of obtaining ice 295 - - - BEVERAGES. - - Zythum and Curmi, how composed 299 - Strong ale, how to make a hogshead 302 - Bracket, way of making 303 - Ptisana, recipe 304 - Oxycratus, do. 304 - Sicera, made of grain, honey, or fruit 304 - Hydromel, method of making it 304 - Hydromelon, how composed 305 - Hydrorosatum, simple addition to the - preceding 305 - Apomeli, simple recipe 305 - Omphacomeli, ingenious mixture 305 - Myrtites, aromatic drink 305 - Date wine, how made 305 - Artificial wines 305 - Nero’s refreshing water 305 - - - TEA. - - Various teas, how manufactured 306 - - - COFFEE. - - Various qualities of coffee 310 - Coffee, made with roasted rye 311 - Coffee, with chicory 311 - Coffee, made with lupin 311 - Coffee, its medicinal properties 311 - Coffee, its physical effects 312 - - - CHOCOLATE. - - Various kinds of cocoa 313 - Chocolate, how manufactured 313 - Chiapa, perfumed chocolate 314 - Chocolate, its properties 314 - - - WINE. - - Grapes, way of preserving fresh 325 - Wine, method of making 325 - Piquette, simple way of obtaining it 326 - Carenum, how obtained 326 - Defrutum, how obtained 326 - Sapa, how obtained 326 - Wine, how to preserve it 326 - Preparation of dolia for wine 327 - Wine, how to fine it 327 - Athenæus’s opinion of old wine 329 - Difference of properties between white - and red wines 329 - Process of preparation for Chios wine 330 - Passum wine 320 - Dulce wine 330 - Mulsum wine 331 - Anisites wine 331 - Rosatum wine, Apicius’s recipe 331 - Violatum wine 331 - Myrrhinum wine 331 - - - LIQUEUR WINE. - - Various composition of liqueurs, herbs - employed 333 - Liqueur wine for Greek and Roman - ladies 333 - Wormwood wine, how made, its properties 334 - Bitter liqueurs, how obtained 334 - Myrtle wine, its properties 334 - Adynamon wine, its properties 335 - Œnanthinum wine 335 - Burgundy and Champagne wines 336 - Ypocras, how composed 338 - Clarey, how composed 338 - - - REPASTS. - - - ROMAN SUPPER. - - Fly dishes, or dormice, what they consist - of 390 - Champignon and egg sausages, how - made 390 - Grasshoppers, how prepared and cooked 390 - - - - -INDEX. - - -.....Page - -Abacus, sideboard, 264 - -Abderites, give up their soil to frogs, 249 - -Ablution, 382, 388 - -Ablutions, before supper, 372 - -Acerræ, vases for perfumes, 389 - -Acetabulum, vinegar cruet, 264 - -Acetaria, pickles of the ancients, 64 - -Achilles turned the spit, 253 - -Acorns, a primitive food, 23 - - “ eaten by the Spaniards, 24 - - “ a substitute for wheat, 24 - -Acratism, breakfast, 342 - -Acrobats, known to the ancients, 395 - -Adephagia, the goddess of good cheer, 256 - -Adrian’s regulations respecting cattle, 127 - -Adversitores, Roman footmen, 377 - -Adynamon wine, 334 - -Æsopus’ dish of singing birds, 193 - -Agapæ, love feasts, 346 - -Agricultural Society of England (the Royal), 16, 410 - - “ trophy, 411 - -Agriculture, 9 - - “ its origin, 9 - - “ developed the industry of the Jews, 11 - - “ very ancient in Egypt, 12 - - “ highly respected by the Roman Senate, 13 - - “ first treatise on, 16 - - “ honours paid to, 16 - - “ protected by Charles IX. of France, 18 - -Aï wine, 337 - -Albanum wine, 329 - -Albert, banquets offered to H. R. H. Prince, 403 - -Alcibiades’ banquet, 355 - -Ale, its ancient reputation, 301 - -“ its curative properties, 301 - -“ how it was made in England, 302 - -Ale, its price under Edward II., 302 - -Alec, a kind of brine, 240, 271 - -Alexander the Great discovered the eschalot, 82 - - “ was fond of apples, 108 - - “ an admirer of peacocks, 166 - - “ his magnificent banquet, 357 - - “ his silver arm-chairs, 372 - -Alfred the Great a renowned hunter, 181 - -Alisander, a valuable remedy, 91 - -Almond tree, 117 - - “ a native of Paphlagonia, 117 - - “ highly valued in the East, 117 - - “ how to augment its fertility, 117 - -Almonds, Apician preparation of, 117 - - “ eaten before drinking, 117 - - “ oil extracted from, 117 - - “ paste obtained from, 118 - - “ their various uses, 118 - -Alose sauce, 258 - -Alphonso of Castile, his repugnance to garlic, 81 - -Amalthæa, the goat, 23 - -Amboise (George d’), Archbishop of Rouen, 172 - -Ambrosia, the food of the gods, 23 - -Amphis, despised horse-radishes, 80 - -Amphoræ, vases used for wine, 328, 390 - -Ampulla, a crystal bottle, 296 - -Amusements of the guests, 383 - -Anacreon sung parsley, 83 - -Anaphe, an island desolated by hares, 188 - -Anchovies, 240 - - “ how preserved, 240 - - “ supplied a kind of garum, 240, 270 - - “ how cooked, 241 - -Andalusia, renowned for its olives, 98 - -Anecdote, severity of Pygmalion, 125 - - “ the eggs of Petronius, 201 - -Angel-fish, its size, 237 - -Anglo-Saxons, devoted to agriculture, 17 - -Anglo-Saxons, their rural occupations, 17 - - “ their culinary utensils, 346 - -Animal food added to vegetables, 123 - - “ when first introduced, 124 - -Animals, 133 - -Anise-seed, extolled by Pythagoras, 88 - - “ recommended by Pliny, 88 - -Anisites wine, 331 - -Anna Perenna, a protectress of flocks, 128 - -Antecœna, first course, 390 - -Antidote of Mithridates, 119 - -Antiphanus, a patron of quails, 197 - -Antony was fond of fishing, 250 - - “ his liberality towards a cook, 256 - -Apician pork, 138 - -Apicii, the three, 200 - -Apicius, he killed himself, 51 - - “ his gastronomic treatise, 200 - - “ his prize for a new brine, 213 - - “ his voyage to Africa, 247 - - “ his cakes, 289 - -Apollo was an ichthyophagist, 210 - -Apomeli, a kind of beverage, 305 - -Appetite, its three degrees, 255 - -Appius Claudius’ aqueduct, 295 - -Apple tree in Greece, 108 - - “ seldom mentioned in Holy Writ, 108 - - “ cultivated by the Latins, 109 - - “ introduced into Gaul, 109 - -Apples, named after eminent personages, 109 - -Apricot tree, 103 - -Apricots, their price in Rome, 103 - - “ how prepared, 104 - -Apronian cherry, 103 - -Apronianus, his decree respecting the Roman butchers, 130 - -Aqueducts of Rome, 294 - -Archestrates, his culinary meditations, 254 - -Archimagirus, chief cook, 256, 260 - -Argonauts, they discovered the pheasant, 194 - -Aristœus, the inventor of oil mills, 97 - - “ “ of cheese, 173 - - “ discovered honey, 273 - -Aristocracy of England, its munificent hospitality, 384 - -Aristoxenic ham, 139 - -Aristoxenus, his lettuces, 74 - -Armeniaca, apricot tree, 103 - -Artemidorus, regulated the culinary language, 254 - -Artichoke, known to the ancients, 70 - - “ despised by Galen, 70 - - “ sung by Columella, 70 - -Artichoke, forgotten during a long period, 70 - - “ their preparation, 71 - - “ how to render them mild, 71 - - “ how preserved, 71 - - “ when introduced into England, 52 - -Artificial dishes, 260 - -“ wines, 305 - -Artocreas, a kind of pie, 265, 286 - -Artolaganos, a kind of bread, 32 - -Artoplites, 38 - -Artopticius panis, 38 - -Arvales brothers, instituted by Romulus, 13 - -Asafœtida, esteemed by the ancients, 91 - -“ extraction of its resin, 92 - -Ascalon, the native place of eschalots, 82 - -Asparagus, 84 - - “ brought from Asia; grown at Ravenna, 65 - - “ Roman; their size; how prepared, 65 - - “ boiled; how preserved; hurtful to the sight, 65 - - “ when introduced into England, 52 - - “ wine, 333 - -Ass, its flesh forbidden to the Jews; patronised by Mecænas, 150 - -Asses used in Roman mills, 26 - - “ milk beneficial to Francis I., 169 - - “ “ cheese obtained from it, 173 - -Astrologicus panis, a sort of bread, 38 - -Astydamas, a great eater, 339 - -Athelstan, a promoter of the art of venery, 181 - -Athenæus praises the Damascus plum, 105 - -Athenians, their epicurism, 126 - -Athletæ, fed on figs, 113 - -Atriensis, hall-keeper, 376 - -Atrium, hall, 376 - -Attalus fond of gardening, 59 - -Attica, its pomegranates, 122 - -Augurs, their banquet, 357 - -Augustus, cured by lettuces, 75 - - “ was fond of cheese, 174 - - “ his sumptuary regulations, 347 - -Autopyron, a coarse bread, 37 - -Aveline, filbert, 120 - -Avena, vats, 20 - -Aviaries for thrushes, 198 - - “ Varro’s, 198 - -Aymar’s table of massive gold, 370 - -Azumos, a sort of bread, 32 - - -Babylon, her celebrated gardens, 59 - -Bacchus, protector of the grapes; ripened the figs, 95 - - “ kills a goat, 124 - - “ the same as Osiris; cultivated the vine, 322 - - “ worshipped by the Romans, 324 - -Bacon, a substitute for oil, 100 - - “ was sold in public-houses, 138 - -Bailli de Suffren, a witty epicure, 343 - -Bain Marie of the ancients, 262 - -Bakehouses in Rome, 34 - -Baker, of King Pharaoh, 31 - - “ Greek bakers, 32 - - “ in Rome, 34, 35 - - “ submitted to certain regulations, 35 - - “ under the Norman kings, 38, 39 - - “ in France; how they were admitted at Paris, 39 - -Bancs, benches, 374 - -Banquet of Geta, 126 - - “ of Caranus, 155 - - “ of Charles VI., 259 - - “ of Alexander the Great, 357 - - “ etymology, 374 - - “ offered to Napoleon; to the allied sovereigns, 407 - - “ to H. M. Queen Victoria, 408 - - “ on the occasion of the baptism of Prince Albert Duncan, 412 - -Banquets of the ancients, 345 - - “ of William the Conqueror, 352 - - “ of the Hebrews, 354 - - “ in the Temples, 355 - - “ triumphal, 357 - - “ modern, 401, 407, 408 - - “ conducive to the prosperity of nations, 402 - - “ offered to H. R. H. Prince Albert, 403 - - “ given by the Reform Club, 408 - -Barbarossa’s pike, 228 - -Barbers in Rome, 387 - -Bardakes, cooling vases, 297 - -Barley, an ignominious food, 20 - - “ a symbol of fertility, 41 - - “ gruel, 41, 42 - - “ water, 42, 304 - -Basque fishermen, 231 - -Baths in Rome, 387 - -Bean, a dismal food; offered to Apollo; served on good tables, 53 - - “ Egyptian; Greek; royalty of the bean, 54 - -Beaune wine, 336 - -Beccafico, 201, 203 - -Beef, 143 - - “ à l’Ibérienne; à la Sarmate, 144 - -Beer, an ancient beverage, 299 - - “ a substitute for wine, 300 - -Bees, under the protection of Mellona, 273 - -Beet, etymology, 62 - - “ preparation, 62, 63 - - “ preservation, 63 - - “ a vermifuge, 62 - -Belisarius, his watermills on the Tiber, 28 - -Bellaria, dessert, 394 - -Bellay, Bishop of Mans (Du), 24 - -Berlanda, disinherited by her father (St.), 374 - -Beuchlingen (Countess of), fond of eel-pouts, 229 - -Beuckels, the Dutch fisherman, 239 - -Beverages, of which water is the foundation, 299 - -Biclinium, 372 - -Bill of Fare, 264, 404, 405, 409 - - “ of an English dinner in the 15th century, 362 - -Birds, when served, 193 - - “ a dish of 7,000 birds, 207 - - “ mixed with garlands of flowers, 394, 395 - -Birds’-nests, various opinions; described by Poivre, 205 - - “ substantial food; of two sorts, 206 - -Bittern, 198 - -Black pudding, 138 - - “ sauce of Lacedæmon, 252 - -Blackbirds, dear to the Roman epicures; medicinal properties; - imprisoned by Louis XI, 199 - -Blé, wheat, 19 - -Blit, its insipidity, 68 - -Bœotia, produced excellent pomegranates, 122 - - “ renowned for its ducks, 158 - -Bœuf-gras, a fatted ox, 145 - -Bold appetite, 255 - -Boleti, mushrooms, 283 - -Bon Chrétien pear, 107 - -Books placed in the dining-room, 364 - -Bordeaux, its oysters, 244 - -Botargo, a preparation from the eggs of mullets, 220 - -Bourbon coffee, 310 - -Bourriche of oysters, 242 - -Bouturon, butter, 171 - -Brahmin women, worship a cow, 145 - -Braket, a beverage for the lower classes, 303 - -Bramble of Ida, 115 - -Braziers of the ancients, 365 - -Bread, how made in the East, 30 - - “ without leaven, 31 - - “ of Athens; of Megara, 32 - - “ various kinds in Greece, 32, 33 - - “ baking, 33 - - “ of the athletæ, 37 - - “ soaked in vinegar, 278 - - “ carried round the tables, 392 - -Breakfast of Galba, 257 - - “ of the Romans; of the Greeks, 342 - - “ first meal, 344, 349 - -Brill, 237 - -Brine, used to preserve cheese, 174 - - “ from the blood of mackerel, 213 - - “ served at table, 268 - - “ brought from Dalmatia, 269 - -Britons, paid little attention to agriculture, 16 - - “ their frugality, 17 - - “ abstained from the hare, 188 - - “ “ from fish, 214 - -Brocoli, esteemed by connoisseurs; how prepared, 69 - -Brouet, a German dish, 258 - -Bubona, the goddess of oxen, 128 - -Buccellatum, biscuit, 37 - -Buffets of the Romans, 364 - - “ in the middle ages, 365 - -Buffon and the truffles, 279 - -Buffoons, 382 - -Buhl work, valued by the ancients, 369 - -Bun, its probable origin (Cross), 290 - -Buphonic feast, 125 - -Burgundy wine, 336 - -Bustard, 206 - -Butchers in Greece; in Rome; their patron, 129 - - “ corporations; regulations, 130, 131 - -Butter, a substitute for oil, 100 - - “ known in the East, 170 - - “ its manipulation; used for pastry; served instead - of oil; the food of the barbarians; a remedy, 171 - - “ how to obtain it instantly; how to attenuate its - rancidity; its preservation; burned in lamps, 172 - - “ fried or roasted, 258 - - “ regulations for its sale, 172 - - “ Tower, the, 172 - -Butts, of the ancients, 327 - - -Cabbage, cured all diseases, 50 - - “ various preparations; brought into Gaul; how preserved, 61 - -Cacabaceus panis, a kind of bread, 38 - -Cadmus, the culinary tutor of a king, 253 - -Cæsar, served with bad oil, 99 - - “ sumptuary regulations, 347 - -Cake, devoured by an ox, 125 - -Cakes of the ancients, 285 - -Caligula, made his own apotheosis, 165 - - “ his expedition against Britain, 241 - -Calves, how fed, 143 - -Cambis devoured his wife, 339 - -Camels’-milk cheese, 173 - - “ flesh, 190 - -Cameline sauce, 257 - -Campanian bacon, 140 - - “ wines, 333 - -Canard, a French, 158 - -Candelabra, 389 - -Cantabria, renowned for hams, 137 - -Cantibaris, his stupendous gluttony, 340 - -Capers, left to the people; how prepared, 91 - -Capitolian pig’s liver, 140 - -Capon, first introduced, 154 - - “ à la déliaque, 155 - -Cappadocians, venerated water, 293 - -Capreæ, excesses of, 126 - -Capsarii, attendants in the Roman baths, 387 - -Caracas cocoa, 313 - -Caranus, a Greek epicure; his wedding repast, 155, 186 - -Carenum, cooked wine, 326 - -Caria, its oil, 98 - -Carp, held in estimation; how cooked; its size; its - fecundity; its longevity; where naturalised, 229 - -Carrots, much esteemed; how prepared, 68 - -Carthaginian chariot, 15 - - “ apples, 122 - -Cartier (Jacques), 231 - -Carver, 377 - -Carvilius, an artist in buhl-work, 369 - -Carving, art of; with music, 260 - -Castella aquarum, large water basins, 295 - -Castor, trained horses, 179 - -Catalonia, celebrated for hams, 137 - -Catesby, his opinion of the flamingo, 201 - -Catinus, a vase, 263 - -Cato, noticed the fig tree, 114 - - “ sold his old slaves, 208 - - “ his recipe for a cake, 287 - -Cattle mentioned in the Mosaic law; valued by the - Romans; rearing of cattle, 127 - - “ markets of the Hebrews; of the Greeks, 128 - - “ of the Romans, 129 - -Cattle, feeding of, 128 - -Cauliflowers unknown in England before Charles II., 52 - -Caviar, how prepared; of two sorts, 217 - -Cayenne coffee, 310 - -Cecilian cherry, 103 - -Celer, the price he gave for a red mullet, 213 - -Cellars of the ancients, 326 - -Celtiberia, swarming with rabbits, 189 - -Cereals, 19, 22 - - “ name of a feast; when discovered, 22 - -Ceres, the goddess of agriculture, 9, 13 - - “ a queen of Sicily, 24 - - “ gave the fig tree to Phytalus, 113 - - “ killed the first pig, 124 - - “ was presented with milk, 169 - -Cerevisia, beer, 300 - -Chafing-dishes, 262 - -Chailly, bread of, 39 - -Chairs used by the Greeks, 318 - -Chalices of the Greeks, 372 - - “ of amber, 321 - -Champagne wine, 33 - -Champignon sausages, 390 - -Charcutier, pork butcher, 132 - -Charlemagne’s kitchen-garden, 51 - - “ silver tables, 370 - -Charles VI. of France; his wedding banquet, 259 - - “ poisoned by mushrooms, 282 - -Charles IX. of France; his edict in favour of agriculture, 18 - - “ an admirer of turkeys, 185 - -Charles X. of France; his coronation banquet, 408 - -Cheese, 168 - - “ mentioned by Aristotle, 171 - - “ invented by Aristœus; known to the Hebrews; - a military aliment; various sorts; given to the Greek wrestlers, 173 - - “ preserved in brine; Tromelian; à la Bithynienne, 174 - -Cherips, invented a new dish, 280 - -Cherry tree, cultivated by Mithridates; introduced by Lucullus, 102 - - “ propagated in Italy, 103 - -Cherries praised, 102 - - “ when served; various kinds; - - “ cherry wine, 103 - -Chervil, how prepared, 84 - -Chestnuts, preparation of; oil extracted, 121 - - “ kept green all the year, 122 - -Chestnut tree, its native place, 121 - -Chickens, sacred, 156 - -Chickens, hatched in ovens; à la Cœlienne; à la Frontonienne, 157 - -Chicory, mixed with coffee, 311 - -Chimneys known to the ancients, 261 - - “ unknown to the Hebrews, 365 - -Chinese, their respect for agriculture, 15 - -Chios wine, 328, 330 - -Chiron, a pupil of Diana, 179 - -Chocolat de santé, 313 - -Chocolate, 312 - - “ used by the Mexicans, 313 - - “ a favourite food in Spain; its properties; - when introduced into France, 314 - -Christmas bread, 40 - -Christmas feasts under Richard II., 351 - -Chrodegand, Bishop of Metz, 24 - -Cicero’s valuable tables, 369 - -Cider maker, 304 - -Cinara metamorphosed into an artichoke, 70 - -Cinnamon, its mysterious growing, 275 - - “ its scarcity; from China; offered as a present, 276 - -Cisalpine preserve, 145 - -City of London, its ancient gastronomic profusion, 351 - -Civilis panis, a kind of bread, 38 - -Clarence’s wedding repast (Duke of), 351 - -Clarey, an English drink, 338 - -Claudius, his guests, 257 - - “ poisoned by mushrooms, 282 - - “ his voracity, 340 - -Clement VII. poisoned by mushrooms, 282 - -Clerks’ wine, 337 - -Clerks’ feeding in the 16th century, 348 - -Cloths, dimensions of table; cutting away the table cloth, 374 - -Cloves, 276 - -Clovis, his politeness, 384 - -Club of Roman epicures, 243 - -Cock, consecrated to Mars; cock-fight in Greece; in Italy, 153 - - “ white, proclaimed the hours, 154 - -Cocoa-nut, 312 - -Cod-fishing; weight; fecundity, 231, 232 - - “ how dressed, 231 - -Cœlia, beer, 200 - -Cœna, supper, of various descriptions, 356, 357 - -Cœnaculum, dining-room, 363 - -Cœur, introduced the turkey (Jacques), 165 - -Coffee, of various kinds; its introduction, 310 - - “ when mentioned; its properties, 311 - -Coffee when drunk in Italy; in London; in Paris; - in Sweden; a slow poison; with milk, 312 - -Collation, 342, 344 - - “ of the Romans, 343 - - “ of Lucullus, 348 - -Colum nivarium, snow cullender, 296, 327 - - “ vinarium, wine strainer, 331 - -Colymbades, a kind of olives, 98 - -Comissatio, a sort of “wake”, 345 - -Comus, his portrait, 355 - -Conflagration of Rome, 396 - -Conger-eel, bestowing immortality; of a considerable size, 226 - - “ culinary preparation, 226 - -Connétable, a celebrated orange tree, 112 - -Conon’s banquet, 355 - -Conviva, guest, 381 - -Cookery, ancient, 266 - - “ exposed to unjust reproaches, 251 - -Cooks, 251 - - “ Greek, 126 - - “ from Sicily, 256, 344 - - “ erratic, 265 - - “ how rewarded, 256 - - “ in the middle ages, 259 - - “ of Louis XIV., 215, 256 - - “ his qualities, 252 - -Coriander used to preserve meat, 47 - -Corinth, its quinces, 106 - -Cormorant, 193 - -Corn, its aboriginal country, 22 - - “ various kinds, 19 - - “ best; Roman law, 21 - - “ cutting, 14 - - “ grinding, 23, 25 - - “ its preservation, 15 - -Cornelian law, 347 - -Corporation of butchers, 130 - -Cos, its poultry, 154 - - “ wine, 328 - -Cossi, large worms, 265 - -Couches for the repasts, 372 - - “ of some emperors, 373 - - “ in the middle ages, 374 - -Counts of Anjou, introduced the plum tree, 105 - -Courses, 362 - - “ their number, 345, 390, 391 - -Cow, worshipped by Brahmin women, 145 - - “ milk; cheese, 173 - -Condiments, 272 - -Crab, its seasoning; sausages; stuffed, 248 - -Cranaus mixed water with wine, 323 - -Crane, 193 - -Crater, a cup, 391 - -Crawfish, 247 - -Crayfish, seasoning; from Alexandria; how preserved, 248 - -Crédences, dressers, 365 - -Cross-bun, 290 - -Crow, 193, 207 - -Crowns of thrushes, 198 - - “ for the guests, 391 - -Crucifixion, the punishment of slaves, 208 - -Cruet, 264 - -Crystal, malleable, 218 - -Crystal Palace, the, 402 - -Cubicularii, valets, 377 - -Cucumber, plentiful in Egypt; from Antioch; marvellous properties, 72 - - “ protects all kinds of seeds; preparation; preservation, 73 - -Cummin, 91 - -Cups, 263, 316 - - “ in the Homeric ages, 317 - - “ variety of shapes, 318, 321 - - “ of praise, 369 - - “ modern, 407 - - “ bearer, 378 - -Curlew, 207 - -Curmi, beer, 299 - -Cuttle-fish, 234 - -Cuvier, on the Pentateuch, 9 - -Cybele, her repugnance to garlic, 81 - - “ patroness of the pine, 95 - -Cythnus, renowned for cheese, 174 - - -Dalmatia, its brine, 269 - -Damascus plum trees, 105 - -Dampier, his opinion of the phenicopter, 201 - -Daphne, its thrushes, 197 - -Dapiferi, servants, 377 - -Darioles, a kind of pastry, 292 - -Dates, from Judea; how preserved; various preparations; - honey from the dates, 101 - -Dauphin of France, his style of living in the 14th century, 348 - -Death of Vatel, 215 - -Decapolis, its olives, 98 - -Décimer, or Décimheure, dinner, 349 - -Decree of Apronianus, 130 - -Deer, 184 - - “ à la Marcellus, 185 - -Defrutum, boiled wine, 326 - -Denarius, inclosed within a truffle (Roman), 279 - -Dessert, 394 - -Diamond, a fish, 237 - -Diana, taught Chiron, 179 - -Dies epulatæ, festivals, 290 - -Digestive garum, 272 - - “ salts, 269 - -Dill, its properties, 88 - -Dining-room, its decoration, 363 - -“ of Nero, 364 - -Dinner, 342, 344, 349 - -“ served to T. Quintus, 136 - -“ of the Jews, 342 - -Diogenes, his earthen vase, 327 - -Diomus kills an ox, 125 - -Diphilus fond of cherries, 102 - -Diploma, double vase, 262 - -Dishes of the ancients, 261 - -“ thirty thousand, at a banquet, 352 - -Dispensator, steward, 376 - -Distribution of wheat, 21 - -“ of oil, 99 - -“ of pork-meat, 130 - -Dodine sauce, 258 - -Dog, a relishing dish, 150 - -“ nailed to a cross, 151 - -“ trained by Pollux, 179 - -“ names of hunting dogs; their qualities, 180 - -Dolia, wine vessels, 327 - -Dolphins, 215 - -Dolyres, a kind of bread, 33 - -Domingo Coffee (St.), 310 - -Domitian, his turbot, 224 - -Dorio, a wit, 225 - -“ an epicure, 226 - -Dormice, how prepared, 390 - -Doubliers, table-cloths, 375 - -Dove, an emblem of sweet virtues, 162 - -Dragon-weaver, 237 - -Dressers, in the middle ages, 365 - -Drinking, 383 - -“ in Roman banquets, 392 - -“ to the good genius, 396 - -“ cups, 316 - -“ horns, 318 - -Druids, their respect for the oak, 24 - -Drunkards among the ancients, 316 - -Drusus fond of brocoli, 69 - -“ favourite starling, 200 - -“ daughter, and the sea-eels, 214 - -Duck, an antidote; its flesh; sacrificed to Neptune; - from Bœotia; served on good tables, 158 - -“ parts offered; brains à l’Epicurienne; seasoning, 159 - -Dulce wine, 330 - -Dumplings of Athens, 85 - -Dutertre, his opinion of the phenicopter, 201 - - -Eagles, distribution of, 412 - -Easter eggs, 178 - -Eaters of renown, 340 - -Eau-bénite sauce, 258 - -Echansons, 378 - -Echaudé bread, 39 - -Eclectic appetite, 255 - -Eden, garden of, 9 - -Edgar, a destroyer of wolves (King), 181 - -Ediles of Rome, 355 - -Edward the Confessor, fond of hunting, 181 - -“ his sumptuary laws, 350 - -Eel, worshipped in Egypt; esteemed by the Greeks; - by the Sybarites; despised by the Romans; - noticed by Apicius; how prepared; sacrificed - to the Gods; how served; its enemies; served at Rockingham’s banquet, 227 - -“ its fabulous length, 213, 228 - -Eel-pout, its liver, 229 - -“ its reputation, 213 - -Eggs, 168 - -“ venerated by some philosophers, 175 - -“ primitive; when served; cooked without fire; - seen in dreams; symbol of the universe; - carried with pomp, 176 - -“ soft boiled; à la Romaine; à l’Epænète; - à l’Athénienne; à la Macédonienne; aux Roses, 177 - -“ pudding; red, 178 - -“ cooked on the spit, 258 - -“ Easter, 178 - -Egypt, the granary of the empire, 12 - -“ supplied the best vinegar, 278 - -Egyptians abhorred the pig, 134 - -“ esteemed the ox, 142 - -“ their veneration for the kid, 148 - -“ fond of fish, 211 - -“ their respect for the sea-eel, 222 - -“ for water, 293 - -“ consumed a great deal of bread, 340 - -“ wreaths, 394 - -Elephant, its flesh; its feet; trunk, 191 - -“ dancing elephants; à la Troyenne, 192 - -Elizabeth, fond of geese (Queen), 159 - -Emphractum, an Apician dish, 242 - -Endive, differently appreciated; curative qualities, 75 - -“ how prepared, 76 - -Entrails of the scarus, 224 - - “ of the tunny-fish, 225 - -Entremets, 383, 385 - -Epicurean dish in the olden times, 351 - -Epicurus, 400 - -Epimeletes, a Greek magistrate, 129 - -Erichthonius, king of Athens, 125 - -Eschalots, by whom discovered, 82 - -Escharites, a kind of bread, 33 - -Etiquette in the 16th century, 353 - -Eumenes encouraged the rearing of pigs (King), 136 - -Exeter banquet, 410 - -Exhibition of 1851, 16, 402 - -Extravagance Culinaire, 406 - - -Falcon, 194 - -Falernian wine, 329 - -Fannius, the consul, 381 - -Fare, bills of, 404, 405, 409 - -Fattening of poultry, 154 - - “ of geese, 161 - - “ of turkeys, 165 - -Feast in honour of Ceres, 356 - -Feathered game, 193 - -Feathers thrown before the door, 358 - -Fécule, flour, 22 - -Feeding of cattle, 128 - - “ of clerks in the 16th century, 348 - -Fennel used to restore the sight, 88 - -Festival of St. Ulric, 215 - -Fête of the distribution of eagles, 412 - -Fig-pecker, how prepared, 201 - -Fig-tree dear to Bacchus, 95 - - “ a tree of Eden, 112 - - “ planted at Athens, 113 - - “ varieties; brought war on Attica, 114 - -Figs, abounded in Canaan, 112 - - “ exportation interdicted; an article of trade in Jerusalem; - valued by the Hebrews; food of the athletæ; - favourite food of Plato; of Attica; - served to Persian kings, 113 - - “ noticed by Cato; planted in the forum; food for entire armies, 114 - - “ how served, 115 - -Filbert, 120 - -File-fish, 237 - -Fillet of pork à la Béotienne, 139 - -Fish permitted to the Jews, 210 - - “ served to Queen Gatis; despised by the heroes of Homer, 211 - - “ Athenian law on, 212 - - “ disliked by the Britons, 214 - -Fish, of two hundred cubits, 213 - - “ mania, 214 - - “ prepared in the shape of game; - its consumption in former times; its vogue under Louis XIV., 215 - - “ ponds, 220 - - “ hooks, 249 - - “ preservation of; piscinæ on the roofs of houses, 250 - -Fishermen, 249 - -Fishing, 249 - -Fishmongers of Athens, 212 - - “ supplying royal tables, 215 - -Flabellarii, servants, 377 - -Flamingo’s tongue, 200 - - “ little known in Europe, 201 - -Flesh most in fashion in the age of Homer, 125 - -Flocks of the patriarchs, 127 - - “ of the eastern nations, 146 - -Flounder, 237 - -Flour, its manipulation, 30 - -Flowers used by the guests, 383 - - “ spread over the table, 389 - -Focarii, stokers, 378 - -Fontainebleau, its orange tree, 112 - -Fontenelle, his answer to Madame Helvétius, 381 - -Food, primitive, 345 - - “ animal, 123 - -Forks, 263 - -Fornax, a goddess, 34 - -Forum pistrinum, the bread market, 37 - -Fountains of the ancients, 294 - - “ in dining-rooms, 366 - - “ spouting various liquors, 367, 385 - -Fowls flavoured at will, 161 - -Fox, 190 - -Francis I., how cured, 169 - -Francis of Paulo introduces a pear (St.), 107 - -Fraternity of free-livers, 270 - -French wine, its price in England, 338 - -Fricatores, servants, 387 - -Fritters, 285 - -Frogs had no repute among the ancients; - in fashion in Paris; eaten in Germany; disdained in England, 249 - -Fruits, the primitive food; Hebrew legislation; how eaten, 95 - - “ how preserved, 96 - - “ when served, 96, 97 - -Fruit-trees on the house tops, 96 - -Frumenta, 41 - -Funereal banquet, 357 - -Furfuraceus panis, a sort of bread, 38 - -Furrows, their length, 18 - - -Gala of the pagan pontiffs, 356 - -Galactophagists, drinkers of milk, 168 - -Galba’s breakfast, 257 - - “ gastronomic profusion, 341 - -Galen, his opinion of the pear, 107 - -Game, feathered, 193 - - “ its preservation, 194 - - “ fabulous expenses for, 207 - - “ abundant in Ithaca, 339 - - “ permitted to the Hebrews, 193 - -Gardening in Great Britain, 17 - - “ known at an early period, 59 - -Gardens, of Babylon; of Alcinous; Roman, 59 - -Garlic, a god in Egypt; a military food; - given to cocks; used by countrymen; proscribed by a King of Castile, 81 - - “ its virtues; how to render it milder, 82 - -Garoe, a curious tree, 298 - -Garos, a shrimp, 270 - -Garum, 213, 269 - - “ sociorum; 236, 270 - - “ obtained from anchovies, 240 - - “ procured from Spain, 243 - - “ its price; from shrimps; from mackerel; - of the allies; from tunny-fish; from the red mullet, 270 - - “ from saxatile fish; its preparation; - used as a seasoning; from various animals, 271 - - “ its modifications; digestive, 272 - - “ used in Turkey, 273 - -Garus, a shrimp, 270 - -Gastronomy, where it has flourished, 126 - - “ the offspring of appetite and sensuality, 210 - - “ promotes friendship, 402 - -Gatis, Queen of Syria, 211 - -Gaul, renowned for hams, 137 - -Gauls, enticed by the figs of Italy, 114 - -Geese, saved the Capitol, 151 - - “ appreciated by the ancients; their prudence; honoured by the Britons, 159 - - “ kept in the Capitol; a symbol of safety; fattening, 160, 161 - -Gelatine sauce, 258 - -Gellia, anecdote of, 189 - -George IV., his coronation banquet, 408 - -Geta’s banquet, 126 - - “ alphabetical dishes, 257 - -Getes, drinkers of milk, 168 - -Gills of mullets, 219 - -Ginger, 92 - - “ bread, 40 - - “ known to the ancients, 285 - -Gladiators, fighting to amuse the guests, 396 - -Globi, a kind of pastry, 288 - -Gloucestershire, renowned for its wines, 336 - -Goat, killed by Bacchus, 124 - -Gold-fish, how dressed; gave its name to Sergius, 230 - -Golden age, dietetic of the, 124 - - “ apples, 109 - -Gods of the sea, 294 - -Gonesse, bread of, 39 - -Goose’s liver, 160, 161 - -Goose à la Gauloise; served on Michaelmas day, 161 - -Gorgor introduces honey into Spain, 273 - -Goslings, in repute among the Greeks, 159 - - “ how fattened, 160 - -Gourd, brought from India; how prepared and preserved; from Antioch, 66 - -Grain, spread on the furrows, 14 - -Grains, 46 - -Granada, its olives, 98 - -Granatum, pomegranate, 122 - - “ wine, 331 - -Granea, how prepared, 20 - -Grapes, offered to Bacchus, 95 - - “ served on the Roman tables, 325 - - “ preserved, 325 - -Grass, a primitive seat, 368 - -Grasshoppers, 265, 390 - -Greek-nut, 117 - -Greeks, fond of agriculture, 11 - - “ their cattle-markets, 128 - - “ eat dogs, 151 - - “ laid the foundation of Ichthyophagy, 211 - -Grinding of corn, 23 - -Grinding-stones, by whom invented, 24, 25 - - “ used by ancient nations, 25 - -Grindstones, of porous lava, 28 - -Gruel, of the Romans, 33, 34 - -Gudgeon, 238 - - “ when served; seasoning, 239 - -Guests, 368 - - “ their places, 372 - - “ their number, 381 - -Guinea hen, native place; à la Numide, 163 - - “ sacrificed to Caligula, 165 - -Guiseau, a kind of eel, 228 - -Haddock, served with pomp, 236 - -Halec, a kind of brine, 240 - -Hall, atrium, 376 - -Hall-keeper, atriensis, 376 - -Halmades, a kind of olives, 98 - -Hams, when served, 137 - -Hand-mills, 25 - -Hare, how prepared; forbidden to the Jews; abounded in Greece, 188 - -Hare’s down used for couches, 373 - -Haricots, introduced by Alexander, 55 - - “ when served, 56 - -Harold, the British Nimrod (King), 182 - -Hazel-nut, 120 - -Healths, how drank, 383, 393, 394 - -Hebrews, their cattle-markets, 128 - - “ their use of wine, 323 - -Hedgehog, 190 - -Heliogabalus, fond of pheasants, 195 - - “ thrushes and ostrichs’s brains, 199, 204 - - “ was served with gills of mullets, 219 - - “ gorged the pheasants with an expensive delicacy, 221 - - “ his couches, 373 - - “ his childish espiégleries, 373 - - “ biography, 400 - -Hempseed, 48 - -Hen of Numidia, 163 - -Henry I. of England, his death, 222 - -Hens, proscribed by C. Fannius, 154 - - “ aviaries; inauspicious cackling; feeding, 155, 156 - - “ worshipped, 175 - - “ of Adria; eggs, 177 - -Hercules, the patron of butchers, 129 - - “ a powerful hunter, 179 - - “ resuscitated by a quail, 196 - -Heroes of Homer, fond of animal food, 126 - - “ their culinary talents, 253 - -Heron, 193, 194 - -Herring, unknown to the ancients; caught - on the coast of Scotland; sold by the Dutch, 239 - - “ how preserved, 240 - -Hesperides apples, 109 - -Hippocrates, prejudiced against beans, 53 - -Hippolochus, a defender of quails, 197 - -Hirpinus’s park, 181 - - “ fish-ponds, 243 - -Hirtius, celebrated for his fish-ponds, 220 - - “ his sea-eels, 221 - -Hirundo esculenta, sea-swallow, 205 - -Hog à la Troyenne, 136 - -Homer, his heroes, 126 - - “ his poem in favour of thrushes, 197 - -Honey, discovered by Aristæus; - its qualities; introduced into Spain; - recommended by Pythagoras; produced by the air; - by flowers, 273 - - “ by reeds; from Attica; when served; seasoning, 374 - - “ obtained from dates, 101 - -Honeyed wine, 131 - -Hôpital, prohibits the sale of pies (Chancelier de l’), 290 - -Horace, fond of parsley, 83 - - “ peacocks, 176 - -Hordeum, barley, 20 - -Horns, used for cups, 318 - -Hors-d’œuvre, 381 - -Horse-radish despised; various sorts; preparation of the seed, 80 - - “ spoils the teeth, 81 - - “ its properties, 80, 81 - -Horses, trained by Castor, 179 - -Hortensius, the first who served a peacock, 167 - - “ his park, 181 - - “ wept over the death of a fish, 214 - -Hospitality, described by Apollodorus, 355 - - “ of the English aristocracy, 384 - -Hot-houses, known to the ancients, 94 - - “ wine, 393 - -Hunting, its antiquity, 179 - - “ of the ancients, 180 - - “ permitted by the Roman law; in England, 181, 182 - -Hydromel, 304 - -Hydromelon, 305 - -Hydrorosatum, 305 - -Hyperbius, son of Mars, 124 - -Hypotrimma, a stomachic condiment, 272 - -Hyssop, its virtues, 88, 89 - - “ wine, 334 - - -Ibrahim Pacha, entertained by the Reform Club, 408 - -Ice, how obtained; from the Alps; ice-houses, 295 - -Iced beverages, 296 - -Ichthyophagy, 210 - - “ of the Greeks; of the Romans, 208 - -Ichthyophilists, 212 - -Imperial sausages, 141 - -Incrustations, for tables, 368 - -Indolent appetite, 255 - -Innkeepers, 336 - -Intoxication, not unfashionable with the ancients, 317 - - “ in the middle ages, 337 - - “ punished in France, 337, 338 - -Invitation to dinner, 387 - -Irrigation of gardens, 59 - -Israelites, fed on quails, 196 - - “ their public repasts, 346 - -Ivory tables, 394 - - -James I. and lamb’s fleece, 182 - -Janus planted the vine in Italy, 323 - -Jews, devoted to agriculture, 10 - - “ abstained from the pig, 134 - - “ “ hare, 188 - -Judea, its fertility, 12 - - “ produced excellent dates, 101 - -Jugglers, 384, 395 - -Jupiter, his stratagem against the Gauls, 33 - - “ suckled by a sow, 134 - -Jus Nigrum, black sauce, of Lacedæmon, 252 - - -Keneffes, German, 258 - -Kervynge, the Booke of, 370 - -Kid, venerated by the Egyptians; - a favourite dish with the Hebrews; - the Greeks; of Attica, 148 - - “ Sicily; Tivoli; various preparations, 149 - -King of the banquet, 383 - -Kirschen-wasser, 103 - -Kitchen, ancient remains, 259 - - “ description, 260 - - “ in the middle ages, 353 - -Kitchen-garden, 59 - -Knives, 264 - - -Ladies, fond of oysters (Roman), 244 - - “ forbidden to drink wine, 332 - -Lady of the lamb, 148 - -Lamb, offered in sacrifice; Paschal, 146 - - “ a luxury; in repute among the ancients; various preparations, 147 - -Lamprey, dried up by the sun; stops a vessel; its high price, 222 - - “ killed in Candian wine; how prepared, 223 - - “ compared to quails, 224 - -Lares, household gods, 390 - -Lark, 207 - -Latona, presented with leeks, 77 - -Leaven, known to the Jews, 31 - - “ how used by the Greeks, 33 - - “ different kinds, 36 - -Lecticarii, servants, 378 - -Leek, an Egyptian divinity; cured numerous diseases; - how prepared; how to make them acquire - an extraordinary size; they are offered to Latona, 77 - -Legislation, concerning the Roman slaves, 209 - -Lemon tree, its origin, 109 - - “ received from Persia, 110 - - “ used for tables and beds, 110, 368 - -Lemons, considered as a counter-poison; - how preserved; lemon-peel, a digestive, 110 - -Lentils, etymology; known to the Hebrews; - appreciated by the Egyptians; by the Greeks; - not in high repute with the Romans; supposed to soften the temper, 57 - - “ an ill-omened food; a funereal vegetable, 58 - -Lesbos wine, 328 - -Lettuce, eaten by the Hebrews; its narcotic - virtue; irrigated with wine; served with eggs, 74 - - “ how prepared, 75 - -Le Vaillant, his opinion of the elephant’s feet and trunk, 191 - -Libations, 390 - -Libum, a sort of cake, 287 - -Liburnian oil, 100 - -Licinian law respecting cattle, 127 - - “ concerning the Roman diet, 51 - -Licinius Muræna, 220 - -Lighting of the ancients, 366 - -Linseed, 48 - -Liqueur wine, 332, 334 - -List of the repast, 264 - -Liver of the red mullet, 213 - -Livia and the sorceress, 176 - - “ fond of good wine, 332 - -Livio contrived to fatten peacocks, 167 - -Loach, how dressed in Italy, 238 - -Loaves, Roman, 37 - -Lobster, a favourite dish, 247 - - “ how prepared, 248 - -Loligo, how served, 237 - -Louis XI imprisons blackbirds, 199 - - “ XIV., his public repasts, 349 - - “ his dinners, 350 - - “ suppers, 350 - -Lucanian sausages, 138, 140 - -Lucrinus, a lake renowned for its fish, 243 - -Lucullian ham, 139 - -Lucullus, introduced the cherry tree, 102 - - “ his park, 181 - - “ fed thrushes, 199 - - “ brought up the sea to his gardens, 213 - - “ his ambigu to Cicero and Pompey, 257, 348 - -Lupin, used for cattle, 47 - - “ etymology, 48 - -Lutatian cherry, 103 - -Luxury of the Romans, 356 - -Lycurgus commanded little children to fast, 252 - - “ destroyed the vines of Lacedæmon, 323 - -Lysimachus, his tax on salt, 267 - - -Macédoine Germanique of milk, 170 - -Macedonia, its giant pigs, 136 - - “ of chickens, 157 - -Macedonian pork, 138 - -Mackerel, 235 - - “ its dangerous appetite; supplied a sort of garum, 236, 270 - - “ appreciated by the ancients, 236 - - “ etymology, 235 - - “ furnished a valuable brine, 213 - -Madidus panis, a sort of cosmetic, 38 - -Mecænas introduced the flesh of the ass, 150 - -Magiric science, its beginnings, 123 - -Mahomedans abstain from the pig, 134 - -Majordomo, 260 - -Mallows, their properties; in high renown; - among the ancient acetaria; how prepared; served as a salad, 64 - -Mamertinum wine, 329 - -Manlius, his trick with the Gauls, 33 - -Manure, Greek and Roman, 14 - - “ obtained from thrushes, 198 - -Maple, used for tables, 368 - -Maragnon cocoa, 313 - -Mares’ milk cheese, 173 - -Marionettes with the ancients, 395 - -Marjoram wine (wild), 333 - -Markets, 128 - -Market-bell, 212 - -Marl, used as manure, 14 - -Martinique coffee, 310 - -Mary Stuart’s supper, 383 - -Mauviette, a species of lark, 207 - -Meals, their number, 342 - -Meat, preserved without salt, 131 - - “ sold by mication, 129 - - “ given by guests to their servants, 394 - -Median apples, 109 - -Mediastini, servants, 387 - -Megalartus, taught to knead flour, 32 - -Meilleraye, his bill for vinegar (Duke de La), 278 - -Meleager, mourned by turkeys, 164 - -Meleagrides, turkeys, 164 - -Melitates, a sort of pastry, 33, 285 - -Mellona, the protectress of bees, 273 - -Melon, 77 - - “ from Asia; perfumed by the Greeks; - appreciated in Rome; - how to render it milder; its Hygienic qualities; - how prepared; brought from Italy, 78 - -Mercury was presented with milk, 169 - -Merenda, 343 - -Mication, used for the sale of meat, 129 - -Michaelmas day, goose served at dinner, 161 - -Michaux, a botanist, 19 - - “ brought peas into repute, 56 - -Miletus, the inventor of grinding-stones, 25 - -Milk, 168 - - “ a primitive food, 123 - - “ an emblem of fertility; the principal food of several nations, 168 - - “ offered to Ceres; to Mercury; its qualities, 169 - - “ Macédoine Germanique of, 170 - - “ mixed with coffee, 312 - -Millers, their festival (Roman), 26 - -Millet, 43 - - “ used for making cakes, 20 - -Millium, millet, 20 - -Mills introduced to Rome, 25 - - “ of the ancients; hydraulic mills; mentioned by Vitruvius, 27 - - “ where invented; constructed by Belisarius; - description; known in England, 28 - - “ wind-mills, 29 - -Milo, a notorious eater, 143, 339 - -Minerva, the patroness of the olive tree, 95 - - “ produced the olive tree, 97 - -Minos, his sumptuary laws, 346 - -Mint, formerly a young girl; prevented milk from curdling, 90 - - “ wine, 333 - -Minturnæ, the retreat of Apicius, 247 - -Mirabelle plums, 105 - -Misor taught the art of seasoning, 267 - -Mithœcus, a magiric writer, 254 - -Mithridates cultivated the cherry tree, 102 - - “ his antidote, 119 - - “ his opinion of the duck, 158 - -Mocha coffee, 310 - -Mola, a goddess, 25, 26 - -Monsieur, plums of, 105 - -Morel, a sort of mushroom, 282 - -Moretaria, a stomachic condiment, 272 - -Mortars, used to pound the grain, 24, 25 - -Mosaic law, concerning cattle, 127 - -Moses, promoted agriculture, 11, 322 - -Mostecham sauce, 258 - -Mountebanks enlivening the banquets, 344 - -Moût sauce, 258 - -Mugil, how dressed, 235 - -Mulberry tree, its wisdom; a native of Canaan; its juice and wine, 116 - -Mullet, red, 218 - - “ killed on the table, 213, 218 - - “ in brine, 213 - - “ anecdote of Philoxenus, 218 - - “ how cooked; its price, 218 - - “ its liver and head; weight, 219 - -Mulsum wine, cure for head-ache, 331 - -Muræna, sea-eel, 208 - - “ dear to Hortensius, 214 - -Murrhine vases, 319 - -Muria, brine; dura; a convivial punishment, 269 - -Muses, protected the palm-tree, 95, 100 - -Mushrooms, the dish of the gods; their - poisonous effects; relished by the ancients, 282 - - “ how they are grown, 283 - -Musicians, symphoniaci, 389 - -Mussels, praised by the ancients, served - to the gods; how seasoned, 245 - -Mustaceum of the Romans, 286 - -Mustard, 46 - - “ etymology, 46, 47 - - “ a remedy against venomous serpents, 46 - -Myrrhinum wine, 331 - -Myrtites wine, 305 - -Myrtle wine, 334 - - -Napkins used by the ancients, 375 - -Naples, its good cheer, 126 - -Napoleon I., his coronation banquet, 407 - -Nero’s iced water, 305 - - “ dining-room, 363 - - “ he sets fire to Rome, 369 - - “ biographical note, 399 - -Nestor’s cup, 317 - -Nets, 249 - -New year eggs, 178 - -Nicolas of Damascus, his dates, 101 - -Nicomachus and his estate, 177 - -Nicomedes and his cook, 44, 45 - -Noisettes, hazel nuts, 120 - -Nomenculatores, servants, 377 - -Northumberland (Duke of), his munificence, 408 - -Nougat of the ancients, 285 - -Numidian chicken, 157 - -Nut-tree, 120 - - “ nuts of Jupiter; Persian, 118 - - “ of Heraclea, 120 - - -Oak, supplied a primitive food, 24 - -Oatmeal, relished by the ancients, 43 - -Oats, 42 - - “ appreciated by the Germans, 20 - - “ oat soup; oat cream, 42 - -Obsonator, servant, 260, 377 - -Œnanthinum wine, 335 - -Œnogarum, 73 - -Officers appointed to watch over the water, 294 - -Oil, abounded in the East; used by the Patriarchs, 97 - - “ the best; its price in Rome, 98 - - “ served to Julius Cæsar; used at the baths; distribution of oil, 99 - - “ Liburnian oil, 100 - - “ of almonds, 117 - - “ of chestnuts, 121 - -Oil-mills, invented by Aristæus, 97 - -Olive-tree, 96 - - “ discovered by Minerva; its pre-eminence; used for various emblems, 97 - - “ cultivated by the Jews; in Greece, 98 - -Olives, preserved by the Hebrews; of Andalusia; of Granada; cultivation, 98 - - “ when served, 99 - -Olla, a Spanish dish, 258 - -Olympian pig’s liver, 140 - -Omphacomeli, a beverage, 305 - -Onions, brought into Greece; how prepared; with honey, 76 - -Orach, its pernicious properties, 87 - -Orange-tree, its native place; introduced - by the Portuguese; unknown to the Romans, 111 - - “ stuck with cloves, 112 - -Orchius, the Tribune, 381 - -Organs of the Romans, 389 - -Orpheus and the primitive egg, 176 - -Ortolans, sent to Rome, 203 - -Oryza, rice, 20 - -Osiris, the inventor of agriculture, 9 - - “ introduced the plough into Egypt, 12 - -Ostiarius, porter, 376 - -Ostrich, fatted and salted, 203 - - “ served on some tables; dish of ostrich’s brains; eggs; a friandise, 204 - -Otranto, the palm tree of, 100 - -Ovens, used by the Jews, 31 - - “ near the hand-mills, 33 - - “ first built in Rome, 34 - - “ portable, 35 - -Ox, sacrificed by Prometheus, 124 - - “ offered to Jupiter; devouring a sacred cake, 125 - - “ roasted whole, 142, 410 - - “ an emblem of agriculture; its image on coins; offered to pugilists, 142 - - “ its flesh permitted to the Hebrews; praised by Hippocrates; price of, 143 - - “ highly valued by the Romans, 145 - - “ care taken of; tracing a furrow, 14 - - “ sacrificed to Bubona, 128 - -Oxycrat, a military drink, 304 - -Oxymel, 304 - -Oxyporon, a seasoning, 274 - -Oysters, uncommon in ancient times; served - to the pagan pontiffs; their price, 242 - - “ preserved fat and alive; sent to Trajan; - when served in Greece; often served raw; how fattened, 343 - - “ how dressed; from the Atlantic ocean; - from Bordeaux; how preserved; pickled; - forgotten for a long period, 244 - - -Palatine broil, 147 - -Pales, 128 - -Palestine, renowned for its wines, 322 - -Palladius cultivated the lemon tree, 110 - -Palm-tree, consecrated to the Muses, 95, 100 - - “ of Otranto, 100 - - “ its usefulness, 101 - - “ supplied the schecar, 100 - -Pan, 31 - -Pandarus, exempt from indigestions, 251 - -Panic-grass, 43 - - “ a favourite dish, 20 - -Panis, bread; etymology, 31, 32 - -Parasites, 382, 388 - - “ their place in banquets, 380 - -Parks, 180 - -Parrot-fish, 223 - -Parsley given as a prize, 82 - - “ its origin; culinary preparation; a symbol of mourning, 83 - -Parsley, the food of chargers; a favourite plant - with Horace; sung by Anacreon, 83 - - “ seed wine, 333 - -Parthian chicken, 157 - -Partridges, 195 - - “ their price; the best parts; their fights, 196 - - “ feathers used for couches, 373 - - “ eggs, 177 - -Paschal lamb, 146 - -Passum wine, 330 - -Pastry of the Jews; among the Egyptians; - with the Greeks and Romans, 284 - - “ patronised by eminent persons, 290 - - “ its progress, 291 - - “ cooks, 285, 290 - -Patinæ, dishes, 263 - -Peach-tree, supposed to be poisonous; price of peaches; how preserved, 104 - -Peacocks, 166 - - “ admired by Alexander the Great; kept in aviaries; - their price; exhibited in Greece; appreciated in Rome, 166 - - “ ridiculous consumption; fattened by Livio; - of Samos; reared by Tiberius, 167 - - “ served as if alive, 167 - - “ sacrificed to Caligula, 165 - - “ eggs, 177, 390 - - “ utility of their feathers, 340 - - “ used by Roman polyphagists, 244 - - “ their tails designed on tables, 369 - -Pear-tree, its native place; qualities of pears, 107 - -Peas, 56 - - “ green, little appreciated; grey, relished - by the ancients; sold at the Circus, 56 - - “ a kind of bribe, 57 - -Pelasgus patronised the beech tree, 23 - -Pelorus celebrated for its oysters (Cape), 244 - -Peniculi, washers, 379 - -Pennyroyal used as a digestive, 90 - - “ wine, 333 - -Pentapharmacum of the Emperor Verus, 257 - -Pentateuch of Moses, 10 - -Pepper used by the ancients, 277 - -Perch, from the Rhine; given to the sick; fed in - the Moselle; relished by the Romans; how dressed, 232 - -Perdix rustica, the wood-cock, 207 - -Perfumes, used by the guests, 383 - -Persians, fond of water-cresses, 84 - - “ their veneration for water, 293 - - “ predilection of their kings for figs, 113 - -Persiller, to give pungency to cheese, 174 - -Pertinax, fond of pheasants, 195 - -Pestles, used for bruising wheat, 25 - -Petronius’s eggs, 201 - -Pharsalians, their mighty appetite, 340 - -Pheasants, relished by Severus, 160 - - “ eggs, 177 - - “ discovered by the Argonauts; kept in aviaries; - adorned the triumph of Ptolemy; served in sumptuous repasts, 194 - - “ scarce in Italy; Vitellius relished their brains; - sacrificed to Caligula; recommended to weak stomachs; - sold frozen, 195 - - “ sausages, 390 - -Phenicopter, flamingo, 200 - -Philip of Macedon, fond of apples, 108 - -Philip-le-Bel’s regulations for fast-days, 214 - -Philoxenus, died of indigestion, 212 - - “ a witty epicure, 218 - - “ devoted to degustation, 254 - -Phœnicians, abstained from pork, 134 - - “ venerated the ox, 142 - -Phrygians, their respect for the ox, 142 - -Phytalus, received a fig-tree from Ceres, 113 - -Picenum cakes, 288 - -Pickled pork, 138 - -Pickles, relished by the ancients, 278 - -Pic-nics, known to the ancients, 344 - -Pie, invented by the Emperor Verus, 286 - -Pig, killed by Ceres, 124 - - “ market at Rome, 129 - - “ portrait of the; its qualities, 133 - - “ offered to Venus; a sign of peace; - an emblem of fecundity; abhorred by - the Egyptians; forbidden to the Jews; to the Mahomedans, 134 - - “ of Macedonia, 136 - - “ stuffed with game, 137 - - “ forbidden to ramble; of the Abbey St. Antoine, 141 - - “ suckling, 137 - - “ the discoverer of truffles, 279 - -Pigeons, how they were caught, 162 - - “ a dainty dish; recommended to the sick; their price; how prepared, 163 - -Pigeon-houses, 162 - -Pike, little esteemed by ancient epicures; - its multiplication; preparation; longevity, 228 - -Pilau, 258 - -Pilchard, how stuffed by the Romans, 238 - -Pine, consecrated to Cybele, 95 - -Pip-fruit, 106 - -Pique-assiette, parasite, 382 - -Piquette, weak wine of the ancients, 326 - -Pistachio-tree, a native of India; brought to Rome by Vitellius, 120 - - “ nuts, recommended by Avicenna, 121 - -Pistores, corn grinders, 25 - -Pithyllus, his protector of the tongue, 255 - -Place of honour in banquets, 373 - -Placites, a kind of bread, 33 - -Plaice, 237 - -Plants, used in seasoning, 86 - -Plato was fond of figs, 113 - -Plautus worked at the mill, 27 - -Plough introduced into Egypt; the Egyptian plough, 12 - - “ the primitive, 13 - - “ its simplicity; ancient; Greek; Anglo-Norman; Gallic, 14 - -Plum tree; plums; how preserved; of Reine Claude; - of Mirabelle; of Monsieur, 105 - -Plutarch, his vegetarian principles, 126 - -Pochet, her recipe for tea (Madame), 308 - -Poisonous peaches, 104 - -Poitevine sauce, 258 - -Poivre, his description of birds’ nests, 205 - -Poles, fond of cucumbers, 73 - -Politeness of King Clovis, 384 - -Pollio, his answer to Augustus, 99 - -Pollio’s (Vedius) atrocious cruelty, 221 - - “ how he chastised his slaves, 214 - -Pollux trained hunting dogs, 179 - -Polypus, its seasoning, 249 - -Pomegranate, fatal to Proserpine; first cultivated - in the east; brought into Italy; how preserved; different species, 122 - -Pomona, 95 - -Pompey and the thrushes of Lucullus, 199 - -Pompion, treated without ceremony, 71 - - “ of Egypt; its qualities; how prepared, 72 - -Pontic nuts, 120 - -Pontiffs, their banquet (Pagan), 356 - -Poppæia used asses’ milk, 169 - -Poppy, its preparation, 86 - -Pork-meat distributed to the Romans, 130 - - “ abhorred by some nations, 134 - - “ recommended to wrestlers; its reputation, 135 - - “ disguised in various ways, 136 - - “ pickled, 138 - -Porpoises, 215 - -Porter, ostiarius, 376 - -Portugal orange, 112 - -Portughan, a name of the orange, 111 - -Portuguese, introduced the orange tree, 111 - -Pot-de-vin, a bribe, 337 - -Poularde à la Viminale, 156 - -Poultry, the best of aliments, 152 - - “ permitted to some religious order, 153 - - “ art of fattening, 161 - -Pounded bread, 40 - -Præcocia, apricots, 103 - -Præfectus annonæ, 36 - -Prægustator, 378 - -Prayers before meals, 344, 390 - -Prefect of Rome, 355 - -Prestigiators, 395 - -Priapus, a protector of fruit trees, 95 - -Priests of Mars, great epicures, 343 - -Probus restored the vine to Gaul, 322 - -Procillatores, servants, 377 - -Procurator, major-domo, 260 - -Præneste enriched by hazel nuts, 120 - -Profusion in the City of London (Ancient), 351 - -Prodigality of the Earl of Warwick, 351 - -Prometheus sacrificed an ox, 124 - -Proserpine, was too fond of pomegranates, 122 - -Provisions mentioned in the Scriptures, 354 - - “ price of, 358 - -Prytanea in Greece, 347 - -Ptisana, barley water, 42 - - “ a sorry liquid, 304 - -Pudding, Carthaginian, 43 - - “ hasty, 44 - - “ black, 138 - -Pullarius, his office, 156 - -Pultiphagists, 33 - -Punch given by Sir Edward Russell, 411 - -Purslaine mixed with salad, 68 - - “ its properties, 69 - -Pyanepsia, one of the festivals of Apollo, 53 - -Pygmalion, his severity, 125 - -Pythagoras, abstained from beans, 53 - - “ was a vegetarian, 126 - - “ recommended honey, 273 - - -Quails, a sovereign remedy, 196 - -Quails, food of the Israelites; supposed - to cause epilepsy; banished from the Roman tables, 196 - - “ fights, 197 - -Quenelles of pig’s liver and brains, 140 - -Quince tree, a native of Cydon, 106 - -Quinces, their beneficial qualities; preserved in honey, 106 - -Quince wine, 107 - - -Rabbits taught mankind the art of fortification; - overthrow Tarragona; defeated by the Roman troops, 189 - - “ of Macedonia; how prepared, 190 - -Radishes of Judea; price in Rome; supposed - to produce cabbages; how preserved, 79 - - “ pickled, 390 - -Ragouts of the middle ages, 258 - -Raleigh, his account of the herring fishery (Sir Walter), 239 - -Rancidity of butter, how to attenuate it, 172 - -Raspberry, 115 - -Ratafia, 103 - -Rauwolf, the first to mention coffee, 311 - -Rearing of cattle, 127 - -Réaumur, his experiments to hatch chickens, 157 - -Red mullet, 218 - -Redstone’s funeral banquet (Sir John), 359 - -Reform Club, its splendid entertainments, 408 - -Reine Claude, plums of, 105 - -Remy’s silver table (St.), 370 - -René of Sicily introduced the plum-tree, 105 - -Repasts, 339 - - “ in common, 346 - - “ variety of repasts; of the Jews, 354 - - “ offered to Jupiter, 356 - - “ of Louis XIV, 349 - -Reservoirs on the house tops, 96 - -Rheumatism, cured by drinking ale, 301 - -Rhoites wine, 305 - -Rhombus, its seasoning, 235 - -Rice, 43 - - “ a nutritious grain, 20 - -River cray-fish, 248 - -Rivers, venerated by some nations, 293 - -Roast beef, the principal article of food in the Homeric ages, 339 - -Robert sauce, 258 - -Robigus, a god, 19 - -Robus, a variety of corn, 19 - -Rochelle wine, its price in England, 338 - -Rocket, how used by the ancients; its properties, 87 - -Rockingham, his banquet (Lord), 227 - -Roebuck, with spikenard; aux prunes; aux amandes de pin, 184 - -Roll bread, 40 - -Romans, fond of agriculture, 11, 13 - - “ eat dogs, 151 - - “ their manipulation of butter, 171 - - “ fond of fish, 212, 216 - -Rome its corruption; its fall, 401 - -Romulus, studied the advancement of agriculture, 13 - - “ was found under a fig-tree, 114 - -Rope dancers, 395 - -Roquefort cheese, 174, 175 - -Rosatum wine, 331 - -Rousseau, (J. J.) was not a practical vegetarian, 126 - -Rue, a counter poison; its properties, 90 - - “ wine, 333 - -Russell (Sir Edward), his memorable punch, 411 - -Rye, a detestable food, according to Pliny, 20 - - “ a substitute for coffee, 311 - - -Sacred chickens, 156 - -Salad could not be procured for a queen, 51 - - “ in the middle ages, 75 - -Salangan, sea-swallow, 204 - - “ nests, 205 - -Salmasius, on truffles, 281 - -Salmon, when first mentioned; sung by - Ausonius; from Aquitaine; abundant in Scotland, 233 - -Salonite cheese, 174 - -Salt, consecrated to the gods; from the - asphaltite lake; used by the Jews; tax on salt, 267 - - “ superstitions concerning salt, 267 - - “ salt works in Italy; eaten with bread; four sorts, 268 - -Salt-meat, its preparation, 131 - - “ cellars, 389 - -Salts, digestive, 269 - -Samos, its oil, 98 - -Sandaligeruli, servants, 377 - -Sandals, 388 - -Sapa, cooked wine, 326 - -Sardinia, renowned for hams, 137 - -Saturn, the inventor of agriculture, 9 - -Saucepans of the ancients, 262 - -Saucers, 263 - -Sauces of various kinds, 257 - -Sauce manufacturers, 257 - -Saupiquet sauce, 258 - -Sausages of Lucania, 138 - - “ various, 140 - -Savillum pie, 286 - -Savory, 89 - - “ wine, 333 - -Scales of the ancients, 130 - -Scaliger, repugnance to water-cresses, 84 - -Scallop of Tarentum, 246 - -Scarus, a fish, 223 - - “ its renown, 213 - - “ celebrated for its anomalies, 224 - -Scate, its back appreciated by the Greeks, 233 - - “ despised by the Romans; its varieties - according to Lacépède; its eggs a curious remedy, 233 - -Scissor, a carver, 377 - -Scoparii, sweepers, 378 - -Scythians, drinkers of milk, 168 - - “ their manipulation of butter, 171 - -Sea, peopled with gods, 294 - - “ crawfish, its culinary preparation, 247 - - “ eels, fed on the flesh of slaves, 208, 214 - - “ “ heard their master’s voice; ornamented with necklaces, 220 - - “ “ how fattened; where caught; how prepared; from the Tiber, 221 - - “ “ venerated by the Egyptians; of a considerable size, 222 - - “ hedgehog, relished by the ancients; how prepared, 245 - - “ swallow, 204 - - “ wolf, an exquisite fish; a child of the gods; - eclipsed the sturgeon; where caught; relished by the Greeks, 223 - -Seals, 215 - -Seasoning, plants used in, 86 - -Seasonings, 266 - - “ with garum, 272 - -Seats, 388 - - “ used by the Hebrews, 372 - -Secale, rye, 20 - -Sechar, an exhilarating beverage, 100 - -Seeds, 46 - -Sejus seasoning, 161 - -Selech, his services to mankind, 267 - -Seneca, his declamations against luxury; his enormous wealth, 252 - -Sensualism of the ancients, 345 - -Sentinum wine, 328 - -Sepia, its black liquid; its conjugal affection; how it was dressed, 234 - -Sepia, an estimable dish, 234 - -Sergius, his fishponds, 243 - -Servants, 376 - -Sesame, how used, 86 - - “ cakes, 20 - -Severus, fond of geese; of pheasants, 160, 195 - - “ hares, 189 - -Sévigné, her opinion on coffee (Mde. de), 312 - -Shad, sold to the plebeians, 234 - -Shadows, a kind of parasites, 388 - -Sheep bread, 40 - -Shell, imitating precious woods, 369 - - “ fish, 241 - - “ “ its seasoning in Italy; how dressed by Apicius; - from Lake Lucrinus; from Pelorus; how cooked; - when served; relished by the ancients, 242 - - “ fruit, 117 - -Shepherds, ancient, 127 - -Shoes of the Romans, 388 - -Shrimps used for garum, 270 - -Sicilian cooks, 344 - -Sicily, renowned for cooks, 256 - -Sideboard, 264 - -Sieves, 265 - -Sigma, a horse-shoe shaped table, 369 - -Silatum, a Roman drink, 334 - -Siligineus panis, a kind of bread, 38 - -Siligo, a species of wheat, 19 - -Simnels, or wigs, 291 - -Simon’s speculation on frogs, 249 - -Sitarchi, magistrates for the allotment of corn, 21 - -Sitocome, an inspector of corn, 21 - -Sitologi, officers to superintend the purchase of corn, 21 - -Sitometræ, officers watching over the measurement of corn, 21 - -Sitonæ, inspectors of corn, 21 - -Sitophylaces, officers regulating the sale, 21 - -Skeleton, exhibited to the guests, 385, 393 - -Slavery in ancient times, 208 - -Slaves, sold by Cato; cruelties practised - against slaves; punished by crucifixion; - put to death to amuse a friend, 208 - - “ thrown to the sea-eels, 208, 214 - - “ more null than vile, 209 - - “ eating with their masters, 356 - - “ their stigmas, 376 - - “ lettered slaves, 376 - -Snails, a delicate hors-d’œvre, 265 - - “ how fattened, 326 - -Snipe, 207 - -Snow, preserved in cellars, 295 - - “ cullender, 226 - -Soles, 237 - - “ compared to partridges, 224 - - “ much sought after, 237 - -Solon, his sumptuary laws, 108, 347 - -Sorrel, how prepared, 69 - -Soterides, Nicomedes’ cook, 44 - -Sow, Jupiter’s first nurse, 134 - -Sow-thistle, given up to rabbits, 87 - -Sowing taught by Ceres, 24 - -Spain, celebrated for garum, 243 - -Spaniards, fond of acorns, 24 - -Spanish camomile, mixed with wine, 90 - - “ dancers, 395 - -Spectacles introduced in banquets, 383 - -Spelt, a species of wheat, 19 - -Spinach, little known to the ancients, 63 - -Spoons, 263 - -Squirrel, 190 - -Stag, 182 - -Stags’ horns consecrated to Diana, 180 - - “ flesh supposed to ensure longevity, 183 - - “ fillet of stag; shoulder of stag; - à la Persane; à l’Hortensius; à la Néméenne, 183 - - “ pies, 290 - -Starling, recommended by physicians; an erudite starling, 200 - -Statues of gods placed on the table, 389 - -Steward, dispensator, 376 - -Stilphon, his answer to Cybele, 81 - -Stokers, focarii, 378 - -Stone fruit, 97 - -Stork, 193, 204 - -Stoves of the ancients, 366 - -Strawberries, highly appreciated, 115 - -Strigil, used in the baths, 387 - -Structores, servants, 260, 377 - -Strutiophagous tribes, 203 - -Stuffed sucking pork, 139 - -Sturgeon, 216 - - “ a royal fish, 214 - - “ its price; compared to ambrosia; - honours it received; announced by the sound - of trumpets; an imperial dish in China, 216 - - “ its weight, 217 - - “ compared to peacocks, 224 - -Style of living in the 14th century, 352 - -Sucking-pigs, 137 - - “ stuffed, 139 - -Sucking-pig, with puddings, 351 - -Sugar, the honey of reeds; the Indian salt, 275 - -Sultana coffee, 313 - -Sumach, 92 - -Sumptuary laws, 152, 252, 346, 350, 381 - -Supper, 342 - - “ of the Hebrews, 343 - - “ primitive of the Romans; in the open air, 344 - - “ given by the Roman Emperors, 357 - - “ a Roman, 386 - -Swallow, sea, 204 - -Swan, 193 - -Sweepers, scoparii, 378 - -Sweet marjoram, when used, 89 - -Sweet wine, 326 - -Sword-fish, how dressed in Greece; despised by the Romans, 234 - -Sybaris, renowned for its good cheer, 126 - -Sybarites, their meditations upon a banquet, 227 - -Sycophants, 113 - -Symphoniaci, musicians, 389 - -Symposiarch, 391 - -Synthesis, a convivial dress, 389 - -Syracuse, its proverbial gastronomy, 127 - -Syrian dancers, 395 - -Syrup of truffles, 280 - - -Tables, before each guest; veneered with - gold; of bronze; of wood; of silver; circular, 368 - - “ spotted or veined; of various forms; - changed at each course; how cleaned; of Cicero, 369 - - “ of ivory, 394 - -Taillevant, the cook of Charles VII. of France, 193 - -Talmouses, a kind of pastry, 292 - -Tarentum, renowned for its repasts, 126 - - “ the abode of luxury, 246 - -Tarragona overthrown by rabbits, 189 - -Tarts, of various sorts, 290 - -Taste, its definition, 124 - -Tax on salt, 268 - -Tea, gathering, 306 - - “ of two kinds; heating; rolling, 307 - - “ its miraculous origin, 308 - - “ compared to ambrosia, 309 - - “ tasters, 308 - -Teal, 206 - -Teeth, of ivory, 388 - -Teething repast, 357 - -Tence sauce, 258 - -Tench, mentioned by Ausonius; left to the common people, 236 - -Tethalassomenon wine, 330 - -Tétines à la Flamine; à la Salienne, 140 - -Thalassites wine, 330 - -Thasian nut, 117 - -Thasos wine, 328 - -Theagenes, a beef eater, 143 - - “ his voracity, 339 - -Theophrastus mentions the cherrytree, 102 - - “ “ the plum tree, 105 - - “ fond of pears, 107 - -Thesmophoria, a feast in honour of Ceres, 22 - -Thessalians, their appetite, 340 - -Thimbron, a culinary star, 254 - -Thorian law, respecting cattle, 127 - -Thrashing of corn, 14 - -Thrushes, 197 - - “ supplied an abundant manure; not eaten by children; - sung by Homer; sent as wedding presents; served at - sumptuous feasts; from Daphne, 197 - - “ kept in aviaries; sold by Varro’s - aunt; how fed; their price; in the shape of crowns, 198 - - “ prescribed to Pompey; recommended - to convalescents; their brains; eaten by Heliogabalus, 199 - -Thurium, its oil, 98 - -Thyme, its qualities; used for aromatic liqueurs, 89 - - “ wine, 333 - -Thys, his voracity, 339 - -Tiberius, fond of melons, 78 - - “ reared peacocks, 167 - - “ his generosity, 257 - - “ poisoned by mushrooms, 282 - - “ how he encouraged artists, 318 - - “ his sumptuary regulations, 347 - -Timachidas, a cook and a poet, 254 - -Titormus, his voracity, 339 - -Tonsores, barbers, 387 - -Tooth-powder used by the Romans, 387 - -Tortoise, its blood; of an enormous size, 246 - - “ how dressed, 246, 247 - -Tourte, a kind of cake, 291 - -Tractatores, servants in the baths, 387 - -Tremellius, took the surname of Scrofa, 128 - -Triclinarches, chief steward, 378 - -Triclinium, 372, 278 - -Trimalcio, a celebrated cook, 256 - -Trimestre, a species of corn, 20 - -Tripes, their reputation, 143 - -Triptolemus, the inventor of agriculture, 9 - - “ was a vegetarian, 124 - -Triticum, wheat, 19 - -Trojan pig, 137 - -Tromelia, renowned for cheese, 174 - -Trophy of agriculture, 411 - -Trout, little appreciated by the Greeks; - - “ relished by the Romans; how dressed, 230 - -Troyenne, hog à la, 136 - - “ wild boar à la, 406 - -Truffles, the daughters of thunder; - - “ where they grow; various sorts, 279 - - “ how prepared, 280 - - “ discovered by pigs, 135, 279 - - “ syrup of, 280 - - “ how preserved, 281 - -Tunny-Fish, its entrails; from Samos; - - “ offered to Neptune; of Pachynum; - fishery of the Synopians; how prepared, 225 - - “ obstructed the navigation of Alexander; - of an immense size, 226 - - “ used for garum, 270 - -Turbot, a delicious food; compared to the pheasant; - the turbot of Domitian, 224 - - “ of Attica, 225 - -Turnips, from Thebes; Amiternum; how they were eaten, 67 - -Turkey, still retains the use of garum, 273 - -Turkey-hen, 163 - - “ how many are required to eat a turkey-hen; - celebrated by Sophocles; bewailing the death of Meleager; - reared in Roman farms; scarce in Egypt and Greece; - introduced into Rome, 164 - - “ sacrificed to Caligula; how fattened; à l’Africaine, 165 - - “ how prepared, 166 - - “ introduced into various countries; admired - by Charles IX. of France, 165 - - “ turkey eggs, 166 - -Turtle dove, 207 - -Twelfth-night cake, its composition, 54 - -Typhes, a sort of bread, 33 - -Tyrontes, a sort of bread, 33 - -Tyrotarichus, a popular dish, 174 - - -Uladislas (King), his repugnance to apples, 108 - -Ulric (St.) festival of, 215 - -Ulysses, renowned for carving, 129 - - “ laid the cloth, 252 - - “ a model of delicacy, 380 - -Unguentarii, perfumers, 387 - -Utensils, culinary, 261 - - “ of the 14th century, 265 - - -Vanilla chocolate, 313 - -Variety of repasts, 354 - -Varro’s aviary, 198 - -Vase of the House of Brunswick, 302 - -Vases of Sardonyx, 320 - - “ of silver; of gold, 321 - -Vatel, his tragic death, 215 - -Vauban’s recipe for eating corn in soup, 15 - -Veal, à la Syracusaine; à la Tarentaise, 144 - -Vegetables, 49 - - “ dried, 53 - - “ relished by the Romans, 50, 51 - - “ how preserved; scarce in England, three centuries ago, 51 - -Vegetarians, 126 - -Venafrum, 99 - -Venison, appreciated by eastern nations, 181 - -Ventilation of the dining-room, 392 - -Ventre de truie à l’Athénienne; à la Romaine, 139 - -Verjuice, its ancient use, 277 - -Vertumnus, 95 - -Verus (the Emperor), invented a new dish, 257, 286 - - “ his couches, 373 - -Vespucius (Americus) introduced the turkey into Portugal, 165 - -Vesta, the goddess of bakers, 37 - -Vestis cœnatoria, convivial dress, 388 - -Vicar’s wine, 337 - -Victoria, coronation banquet of H. M. Queen, 408 - -Victua, the goddess of food, 356 - -Villar’s Swiss porter, 341 - -Vine, cultivated in England, 335 - -Vinegar, its alleged qualities; from Egypt; used to cool the cannons, 278 - - “ cruet, 264 - -Vines, protected by the Roman law, 324 - -Vinum Tethalassomenon, 330 - -Violatum wine, 331 - -Vitellius, brought the pistachio tree to Rome, 120 - - “ regaled on pheasants’ brains, 195 - - “ served with a dish of 7,000 birds, 208 - - “ grew tired of sea-eels, 221 - - “ his culinary expenses, 257, 348 - - “ was an active polyphagist, 341 - - “ his nocturnal banquets, 345 - -Vocatores, servants, 377 - -Voracity, examples of, 339, 341 - -Vulture, 194 - - -Walnut tree, a native of Asia, consecrated to Jupiter, - reserved to Persian kings, 118 - -Walnuts, when served; how eaten; their qualities; - used as an antidote; strewed on the nuptial chamber, 119 - -Warwick, his prodigality (Earl of), 351 - -Washers, peniculi, 379 - -Water, a vivifying principle; venerated by ancient nations, 293 - - “ conveyed into Rome, 295 - - “ its curative virtue, 296 - - “ cure system, practised by the Romans, 297 - - “ hot, used to drink, 296 - - “ cresses, a native of Crete; esteemed by the - Persians; despised by Plutarch; their properties, 84 - - “ an anti-scorbutic; how prepared 85 - - “ hen, 206 - - “ mills, 27, 28 - -Wax figures among the Romans, 377 - - “ vases, 318 - -Weaning supper, 357 - -Wedding-cake of the Romans, 286 - - “ wine, 337 - - “ repast of H.R.H. the Duke of Clarence, 351 - - “ day banquet, 357 - - “ of Charles VI., 259 - -Weights of the ancients, 130 - -Westphalia celebrated for hams, 137 - -Whales, 215 - - “ of four acres, 213 - -Wheat, 19 - - “ its price in Greece; public distribution in Rome, 21 - - “ its price in the olden times, 22 - - “ Indian, 44 - -Whiting, its light flesh, 230 - - “ its preparation, 231 - -Whitten used for tables, 368 - -Wild boar à la Troyenne, 185, 406 - - “ of immense size; served by Caranus; raised on farms, 186 - - “ how served, 187 - - “ how prepared, 186, 187 - - “ preceded by trumpeters, 187 - -Wild marjoram wine, 89 - - “ thyme, 89 - -William the Conqueror, his sumptuous banquets, 352 - -Wind-mills, 29 - -Wine, of grain; of the Britons, 301 - - “ obtained from fruits, 305, 322 - - “ disliked by some nations, 323 - - “ method of making, 325 - - “ fining of; how clarified, 327 - - “ of different kinds; Greek; Italian, 328 - - “ of a hundred leaves; white; red; two hundred years - old; how to change its colour, 329 - - “ mixed with sea-water; of Chios; various made wines, 330 - - “ interdicted to Roman ladies, 331, 332 - - “ its price in Greece; in Rome, 331 - - “ the drink of generous souls, 332 - - “ of Campania, 333 - - “ dealers in, 336 - - “ used for presents and fees; of citizenship, 337 - - “ sweet, 326 - - “ hot, 393 - - “ press of the ancients, 325 - -Wood, an extraordinary eater (Nicholas), 341 - -Woodcock, how prepared, 207 - -Wood-hen, 206 - -Wormwood, esteemed by the Egyptians; its various uses, 93 - - “ wine; its composition; it prevented giddiness, 98, 334 - -Wreaths of flowers, 391 - -Wrestlers fed on pork, 135 - - “ rewarded with an ox, 142 - - “ fed with cheese, 173 - - -Xerxes, fighting for figs, 114 - -Xiphias fish, 225 - - -York banquet, 403 - -Ypocras, 338 - - -Zea, rice wheat, 20 - -Zeno, of Citium, of the same nature as the lupins, 47 - - “ cooked his lentils himself, 57 - -Zythum, beer, 299 - - - - -ERRATA. - - -_Page_ 16, _line_ 19, _for_ which great and the, _read_ which the great -and glorious. _P._ 19, _l._ 16, _for_ Picardy to make bread, _read_ in -Picardy. To make bread. _P._ 19, _l._ 16, _for_ of leaven and, _read_ of -leaven is required, and. _P._ 26, _l._ 6, _for_ Flamine, _read_ Flamen. -_P._ 26, _l._ 25, _for_ leaves _read_ loaves. _P._ 27, _l._ 20, _for_ -Cabire _read_ Cabira. _P._ 28, _l._ 28, _for_ hand-mill; by the Britons, -_read_ hand-mill, by the Britons. _P._ 32, _l._ 11, _for_ Megalarte and -Megalomar, _read_ Megalartus and Megalomazus. _P._ 33, _l._ 2, _for_ -escarites, _read_ escharites. _P._ 33, _l._ 7, _for_ melitutes, _read_ -melitates. _P._ 37, _l._ 8, _for_ Septier, _read_ Setier. _P._ 50, _l._ -25, _for_ Ciens cheris, _read_ lieux cheris. _P._ 63, _l._ 28, _for_ -chrysolacanon, _read_ chrysolachanon. _P._ 65, _l._ 34, _for_ has, -_read_ have. _P._ 67, _l._ 20, _for_ Amitermes, _read_ Amiternum. _P._ -68, _l._ 18, _for_ possessed, _read_ possesses. _P._ 79, _l._ 11, _for_ -Algidea, _read_ Algidus. _P._ 84, _l._ 25, _for_ dressed it in, _read_ -dressed in. _P._ 93, _l._ 32, _for_ Corcyrus, _read_ Corcyra. _P._ 98, -_l._ 15, _for_ Halmade, _read_ Halmades. _P._ 99, _l._ 26, _for_ -Venafra, _read_ Venafrum. _P._ 100, _l._ 31, _for_ sechar, _read_ -schecar. _P._ 103, _l._ 11, _for_ Cæcilian, _read_ Cecilian. _P._ 106, -_l._ 18, _for_ fruit of, _read_ fruit, the. _P._ 124, _l._ 31, _for_ -Hyberbius, _read_ Hyperbius. _P._ 125, _l._ 2, _for_ Erichtonius, _read_ -Erichthonius. _P._ 129, _l._ 1, _for_ curators, _read_ curator. _P._ -129, _l._ 25, _for_ life, _read_ life, the. _P._ 136, _l._ 16, _for_ -Chalies, _read_ Chalcis. _P._ 139, _l._ 38, _for_ à la Bœotienne -_read_ à la Béotienne. _P._ 143, _l._ 15, _for_ Thasos, _read_ Thasus. -_P._ 149, _l._ 2, _for_ Mœlos, _read_ Melos. _P._ 153, _l._ 2, _for_ -Carniphobis, _read_ Carniphobus. _P._ 150, _l._ 25, _for_ Scipio, -Metellus, and, _read_ Scipio Metellus and. _P._ 170, _l._ 26, _for_ -philosopher, _read_ philologist. _P._ 171, _l._ 17, _for_ bouturos, -_read_ bouturon. _P._ 176, _l._ 7, _for_ consort of Nero, _read_ consort -of Augustus. _P._ 189, _l._ 5, _for_ consectuive, _read_ consecutive. -_P._ 203, _l._ 23, _for_ Marmot, _read_ Marmol. _P._ 213, _l._ 9, _for_ -scare, _read_ scar. _P._ 216, _l._ 9, et passim, _for_ accipenser, -_read_ acipenser. _P._ 225, _l._ 8, _for_ Pachynum, _read_ Pachynus. -_P._ 296, _l._ 13, _for_ Sicyona, _read_ Sicyon. _P._ 230, _l._ 23, -_for_ pèsant, _read_ pèsent. _P._ 235, _l._ 21, _for_ of Scyathus, -_read_ of Sciathos. _P._ 236, _l._ 29, _for_ the Mostella, _read_ the -Mosella. _P._ 237, _l._ 17, _for_ the Bulistes, _read_ the Balistes. -_P._ 238, _l._ 2, _for_ of Phaleres, _read_ of Phalera. _P._ 242, _l._ -9, _for_ of Polareo, _read_ of Pelorus. _P._ 247, _l._ 6, _for_ -Minturnus, _read_ Minturnæ. _P._ 250, _l._ 12, _for_ a hook, _read_ to -hook. _P._ 251, _l._ 24, _for_ Pandarea, _read_ Pandarus. _P._ 253, _l._ -12, _for_ the act of eating, _read_ the art of eating. _P._ 378, _l._ 3, -_for_ Cnide, _read_ Cnidus. _P._ 270, _l._ 12, _for_ Acarnidea, -Alopecomesia, _read_ Acarne, Alopeconnesus. _P._ 291, _l._ 26, _for_ -eleven hundred, _read_ eleven. _P._ 293, _l._ 25, _for_ he prayed it -might be, _read_ he prayed that the Tiber might be. _P._ 309, _l._ 27, -_for_ Simon introduced Pauli, _read_ Simon Pauli introduced. _P._ 317, -_l._ 25, _for_ we have spoken, _read_ we will soon speak. _P._ 323, _l._ -1, _for_ Helbon, _read_ Hebron. _P._ 325, _l._ 39, _for_ Plate III., -_read_ Plate I. _P._ 366, _l._ 30, _for_ minutalim, _read_ minutatim. -_P._ 378, _l._ 15 and 36, _for_ Procillatores, _read_ Procillator. - - DESCRIPTION OF PLATE No. XXVI. A, PAGE 365. - - No. 1. Terra-Cotta Drinking-Vase, in the shape of a Bird. - - No. 2. Drinking-Vase in the shape of a Tea-pot. - - No. 3. Drinking-Cup, with Jupiter’s Head. - - * * * * * - - * * * * * - - WORKS BY A. SOYER. - - _Lately Published, the Eighth Edition, Handsomely Bound, Price 15s._, - - THE - - Gastronomic Regenerator: - - A - - SIMPLIFIED AND ENTIRELY NEW - - SYSTEM OF COOKERY, - - WITH NEARLY - - TWO THOUSAND PRACTICAL RECIPES, - - SUITED TO THE INCOME OF ALL CLASSES. - - ILLUSTRATED WITH - - NUMEROUS ENGRAVINGS, - - AND CORRECT AND MINUTE PLANS HOW KITCHENS OF EVERY SIZE, FROM THE - KITCHEN OF A ROYAL PALACE TO THAT OF THE HUMBLE COTTAGE, - ARE TO BE CONSTRUCTED AND FURNISHED. - - - BY A. SOYER. - - - LONDON: - SIMPKIN, MARSHALL, & CO., STATIONERS’ HALL COURT: - AND SOLD BY - JOHN OLLIVIER, PALL-MALL. - 1853. - - _For Criticisms see the Public Press in 1846._ - - * * * * * - - The Gastronomic Regenerator - - TRANSLATION FROM THE FRENCH OF A CULINARY DIALOGUE BETWEEN LORD M. - H. AND A. SOYER.--_From the “Gastronomic Regenerator,” p. 611._ - -S.--You are perfectly right, my Lord, the title of “Gourmet” belongs -only to him who eats with art, science, and care, and even with great -care. - -LORD M.--The “Gourmand” is never entitled to the name of “Gourmet;” the -one eats without tasting, whilst the other tastes in eating. - -S.--The proud and haughty man, my Lord, orders his dinner from -necessity; the man of the world--the profound epicure--orders his with -delight. - -LORD R.--It is quite certain that too much attention cannot be given to -the proper execution of, and the intelligence displayed in, the order of -a dinner. The dinner--being of each day, each season, each century--is -not only an hereditary fashion, but also the soul of sociability; read -history, and you will perceive that, in all times, amongst all people, -the good which has been done--and sometimes the evil--was always -preceded or followed by a banquet. - -S.--Nothing is more true, my Lord. Of all the pleasures which are -bestowed upon us in this world, that of the table is the only one which, -when the reins of the car of life become slack, parts from us with -regret, and often, as a faithful friend, leaves us but at the brink of -the tomb; whilst all other pleasures disappear gradually, like the -fading of a beautiful autumn, and cover our heads with the hoary locks -of winter. - -LORD M.--It is positive that the gift of degustation belongs to all ages -of life,--a centenarian whom I knew well retained this pleasure until -his last hour. - -S.--Our degustative senses require continual study, and unceasingly -claim a constant change. - -LORD M.--The greatest wit lacks eloquence, if he neglect too much the -nature of his repast. - -S.--Which proves, my Lord, that our most agreeable sensations depend, -not solely on nature, but on the care we take of ourselves. - -LORD M.--Yes, the more sensitive the soul, the greater the power of -degustation. The degustative sensations operate with as great activity -on the palate as the charm of melody acts on the ear; for example, man -in a state of madness feels the want of eating, but the enchanting -pleasure of degustation is as much denied to him as that of reason. - -S.--Your argument on this point is extremely just, my Lord; and are you -not of my opinion, that nothing disposes the human heart to amicable -feelings more than a dinner well conceived and artistically prepared? - -LORD M.--It is that which has always made me say that a good cook is as -useful as a good tutor. - -S.--I have always perceived, my Lord, that the finest palate is the most -difficult to please, but also the most just in praise. - -LORD M.--The choice of wines is of great importance in the progress of a -dinner: a fine wine, light and generous, protects the cook and becomes -the benefactor of the guest. - -S.--Permit me also to observe, my Lord, that a gastronomic _réunion_, -without the _beau sexe_ is to me a flower-bed without flowers, an ocean -without waves, a fleet without sails. - -LORD M.--Certainly, such _réunions_ are the cradles of good manners and -sociability, even as intemperance is the tomb of morality. - - * * * * * - - Just Published, the Thirtieth Thousand, Price 7s. 6d., - - THE - - Modern Housewife, or Menagere, - - COMPRISING - -Nearly One Thousand Recipes for the Economic and Judicious Preparation - of Every Meal of the Day, - - AND THOSE FOR - - THE NURSERY AND SICK-ROOM, - - WITH MINUTE DIRECTIONS FOR FAMILY MANAGEMENT IN ALL ITS BRANCHES. - - BY A. SOYER, - AUTHOR OF “THE GASTRONOMIC REGENERATOR,” - - Illustrated with Numerous Engravings. - - _For Criticisms, see the Public Press in 1849._ - - LONDON: - SIMPKIN, MARSHALL, AND CO., STATIONERS’ HALL COURT, - - 1853. - - * * * * * - - COPY OF A LETTER RECENTLY RECEIVED BY THE AUTHOR FROM DR. ERASMUS - WILSON, AUTHOR OF “HEALTHY SKIN, A POPULAR TREATISE ON THE SKIN AND - HAIR.” - -17, HENRIETTA STREET, CAVENDISH SQUARE, -_July 18th, 1853_. - - SIR, - - May I beg your acceptance of the accompanying small volume, for the - part illustration of which I am indebted to your admirable - “Housewife.” Your nursery dinner is one of the most valuable pages - I have ever read on the subject of Diet; and it is calculated to - confer an everlasting benefit on society. - -I am, Sir, - -Your faithful servant, - -ERASMUS WILSON. - - - A. SOYER, ESQ. - - - * * * * * - -Extract from “Healthy Skin, a Popular Treatise on the Skin and Hair.” - -By Erasmus Wilson, F.R.S. - -There is another branch of dietetics that calls for an observation from -me, I mean the diet of children. Children are growing animals; nutrition -in them is active, and calls for good and plentiful material in the -shape of nourishment. As far as period is concerned, the same law that -applies to adults is equally suited to them, three meals a day, an -interval of four hours between each. I speak of children out of arms, -not of infants. The substance of their meals cannot be too nutritive, or -too much varied. - -That the diet of children cannot be too varied or extensive is a -doctrine I have long held; and I was recently much charmed in finding -the subject treated with such admirable sense and judgment by a high -authority in the science of living--Soyer. His letter entitled “The -Nursery Dinner,” in the “Modern Housewife,” I cannot too strongly -commend to the perusal and attention of my readers, and to the study of -those on whom the proper rearing of children in any way rests. Speaking -of the diet of children for the day, this author writes:--“Bread and -milk for breakfast at eight; the dinner at one, which was composed as -follows throughout the week,--roast mutton and apple pudding, roast beef -and currant pudding, baked apples; boiled mutton with turnips, after -which rice or vermicelli pudding; occasionally a little salt beef, with -suet dumplings, plain and with currants in them, or pease pudding; or if -unwell, a little veal or chicken broth, or beef-tea.” - -This scheme of diet is intended for the children of persons in very -moderate circumstances; but for those who can afford it he prescribes, -as the dinner of one day, roast mutton: “then the next day I would give -them a small piece of mutton plain boiled, with turnips, and apple tart, -or a few slices of roast beef, or a small piece roasted on purpose, -after which a very plain currant pudding; or, occasionally, a little -pickled pork, with pease pudding, or roast pork, with baked apples, and -now and then a little salt beef, but very well boiled, with suet -dumplings, and occasionally, for change, either bread, vermicelli, or -tapioca puddings; in case of illness, and with the approbation of the -doctor, veal, mutton, or chicken-broth, sago, gruel, panada, &c. Many -people may perhaps imagine that there is too much variety of food for -children, but it is quite the contrary, for change of food is to the -stomach what change of air is to the general health; and of course, with -children, these changes must be effected with judgment.” - -Soyer is perfectly right with regard to the question of variety of food -for children; and the intention is so rational, that it is difficult to -conceive how a difference of opinion can exist with regard to its truth; -and yet I have heard parents make a boast that their children were fed -exclusively upon mutton, as though it were their intention to render the -stomach incapable of supporting and digesting any other kind of -food,--in which they generally succeed. - -Sameness of food, improper food, defective ventilation, and insufficient -exercise, are the causes of most of the diseases of children; and -especially of cutaneous complaints. This is the secret of the ring-worms -and scald-heads of public seminaries. In some of these institutions, as -I have heard, there is a ceremony in which the children take a public -meal in the presence of the governors and their friends. On these -occasions, the platters eclipse in whiteness the envious snow; a -suppressed burst of delight is heard from the spectators; the morsel of -cheese, cut with mathematical precision, would not vary a grain in the -thousand platters; the bread--what ingenuity!--each with his neighbour a -very twin. And how many days in the year do the children enjoy this -fattening collation?--365. For three hundred and sixty-five days, for a -thousand children, is this “_toujours perdrix_” feast the very same; and -yet there are people in the world who wonder that diseases should break -out, that skin affections should be rife, that consumptions should -prevail. Engraft a bud of Soyer on such an institution, and health and -happiness, learning, ability, and talent will take the place of disease, -melancholy, stupidity, and common-place intellect. What, now, in this -intelligent country, if there were a college of cookery, with Soyer for -its head? - - * * * * * - - _Now in progress_, - - Soyer’s Plain Cookery for the People, - - CONTAINING NUMEROUS RECIPES, - - Adapted for the Cottage of the Labourer, the Home of the Artisan, and - the Chamber of the Invalid. - - * * * * * - - NOTE BY THE AUTHOR. - - -In the year 1846 I published a work on Cookery, entitled “The -Gastronomic Regenerator,” which was very successful. At page 650 I -observed that if any author were to write a work on the History of Food -and Cookery, it would not only be very interesting, but also an -extremely useful production. No one, however, having entertained my -suggestion, I determined to undertake the task, and, after several years -of deep study and perseverance, have completed this voluminous work. - -In the “Modern Housewife,” which I published in 1849, treating of sauces -prepared by the ancients, I said, that “In all ages and countries -removed from barbarism, where fish has formed an article of diet, sauces -of various kinds have been an accompaniment. With the Romans, in the -time of Lucullus, great care was observed in their preparation; the most -celebrated of those which they used were the _Garum_ and the _Muria_. - -“The Garum was a sauce which the Romans used in nearly all their dishes; -the preference was given to that which came from Antipolis and from -Dalmatia. Horace praises that made at Byzantium, being the most esteemed -and the most expensive: its composition is unknown.”[I] The epicures of -the present day should offer a premium for that which, in their opinion, -may bear the greatest resemblance to this ancient relish. It is a -subject well worthy the attention of the professors of our universities; -perhaps some leaf yet undiscovered, that may have escaped the -conflagration of Alexandria, might throw some light upon so interesting -a subject. - -A. SOYER. - -_42 Trinity Square, Tower Hill._ - -Vizetelly and Company, Printers and Engravers, 155 Fleet Street, London. - - - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Pantropheon or, History of Food, -its Preparation, from the Earliest A, by Alexis Soyer - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE PANTROPHEON *** - -***** This file should be named 51259-0.txt or 51259-0.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/5/1/2/5/51259/ - -Produced by Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images available at The Internet Archive) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license - - -Title: The Pantropheon or, History of Food, its Preparation, from the Earliest Ages of the World - -Author: Alexis Soyer - -Release Date: February 21, 2016 [EBook #51259] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE PANTROPHEON *** - - - - -Produced by Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images available at The Internet Archive) - - - - - - -</pre> - -<hr class="full" /> - - -<p class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/cover.jpg" width="322" height="500" alt="Image not available: cover" /> -</p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="" -style="border: 2px black solid;margin:auto auto;max-width:50%; -padding:1%;"> -<tr><td> - -<p class="c"><a href="#Contents">Contents.</a><br /> -<a href="#BIOGRAPHICAL_NOTES">Biographical Notes.</a><br /> -<a href="#MODERN_BANQUETSE">Modern Banquets.</a><br /> -<a href="#TABLE_OF_REFERENCES">Table of References.</a><br /> -<a href="#FOOTNOTES">Footnotes</a><br /> -<a href="#TABLE_OF_RECIPES">Table of Recipes.</a><br /> -<a href="#INDEX">Index.</a>: -<a href="#A">A</a>, -<a href="#B">B</a>, -<a href="#C">C</a>, -<a href="#D">D</a>, -<a href="#E">E</a>, -<a href="#F">F</a>, -<a href="#G">G</a>, -<a href="#H">H</a>, -<a href="#I-i">I</a>, -<a href="#J">J</a>, -<a href="#K">K</a>, -<a href="#L">L</a>, -<a href="#M">M</a>, -<a href="#N">N</a>, -<a href="#O">O</a>, -<a href="#P">P</a>, -<a href="#Q">Q</a>, -<a href="#R">R</a>, -<a href="#S">S</a>, -<a href="#T">T</a>, -<a href="#U">U</a>, -<a href="#V-i">V</a>, -<a href="#W">W</a>, -<a href="#X-i">X</a>, -<a href="#Y">Y</a>, -<a href="#Z">Z</a><br /> -<a href="#ERRATA">Errata.</a></p> - - -<p class="c"><a href="#List_of_Illustrations">List of Illustrations</a></p> - -<p class="c">(etext transcriber's note)</p></td></tr> -</table> - -<p class="c">SOYER’S -<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_i" id="page_i"></a>{i}</span><br /> -<br /> -<img src="images/pantro.png" -width="200" -height="22" -alt="Image not available: PANTROPHEON." -/></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_ii" id="page_ii"></a>{ii}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="pl_A" id="pl_A"></a> -<a href="images/front.jpg"> -<img src="images/front_sml.jpg" width="320" height="500" alt="Image not available: Pl. A" /></a> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_iii" id="page_iii"></a>{iii}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/title.png"> -<img src="images/title.png" width="321" height="500" alt="Image not available: THE - -PANTROPHEON - -OR, - -HISTORY OF FOOD, - -And its Preparation, - -FROM THE EARLIEST AGES OF THE WORLD. - -By A. SOYER, - -AUTHOR OF -“The Gastronomic Regenerator” and the “Modern Housewife, or Ménagère,” &c. - -EMBELLISHED WITH FORTY-TWO STEEL PLATES, - -ILLUSTRATING THE GREATEST GASTRONOMIC MARVELS OF ANTIQUITY. - -BOSTON: -TICKNOR, REED, AND FIELDS. -MDCCCLIII. - -The Author reserves his right of Translating this Work." /></a> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_iv" id="page_iv"></a>{iv}</span></p> - -<p class="c"><small> -LONDON:<br /> -VIZETELLY AND COMPANY, PRINTERS AND ENGRAVERS.<br /> -PETERBOROUGH COURT, FLEET STREET.</small></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_v" id="page_v"></a>{v}</span></p> - -<h2 class="eng"><a name="Contents" id="Contents"></a>Contents.</h2> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr><td></td><td align="right"><small>Page</small></td></tr> -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Pantropheon</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_003">3</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#I">I.</a></th></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Agriculture</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_009">9</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#II">II.</a></th></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Cereals</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_019">19</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#III">III.</a></th></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Grinding of Corn</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_023">23</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#IV">IV.</a></th></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Manipulation of Flour</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_030">30</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#V">V.</a></th></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Frumenta</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_041">41</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#VI">VI.</a></th></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Grains: Seeds</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_046">46</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#VII">VII.</a></th></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Vegetables</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_049">49</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#VIII">VIII.</a></th></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Dried Vegetables</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_053">53</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Beans</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_053">53</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Haricots</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_055">55</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Peas</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_056">56</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Lentils</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_057">57</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#IX">IX.</a></th></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Kitchen Garden</span><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_vi" id="page_vi"></a>{vi}</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_059">59</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Cabbage</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_060">60</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Beet</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_062">62</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Spinach</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_063">63</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Mallows</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_064">64</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Asparagus</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_064">64</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Gourd</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_066">66</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Turnips</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_067">67</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Carrots</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_068">68</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Blit (a sort of Beet)</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_068">68</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Purslaine</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_068">68</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Sorrel</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_069">69</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Brocoli</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_069">69</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Artichoke</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_070">70</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Pompion</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_071">71</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Cucumber</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_072">72</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Lettuce</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_074">74</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Endive</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_075">75</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Onions</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_076">76</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Leeks</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_077">77</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Melon</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_077">77</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Radish</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_079">79</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Horse-Radish</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_080">80</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Garlic</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_081">81</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Eschalots</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_082">82</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Parsley</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_082">82</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Chervil</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_084">84</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Water-Cresses</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_084">84</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#X">X.</a></th></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Plants Used in Seasoning</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_086">86</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Poppy</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_086">86</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Sesame</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_086">86</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Sow-Thistle</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_087">87</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Orach</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_087">87</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Rocket</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_087">87</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Fennel</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_088">88</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Dill</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_088">88</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Anise-Seed</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_088">88</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Hyssop</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_088">88</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Wild Marjoram</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_089">89</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Savory</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_089">89</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Thyme</span><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_vii" id="page_vii"></a>{vii}</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_089">89</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Wild Thyme</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_089">89</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Sweet Marjoram</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_089">89</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Pennyroyal</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_090">90</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Rue</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_090">90</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Mint</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_090">90</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Spanish Camomile</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_090">90</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Cummin</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_091">91</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Alisander</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_091">91</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Capers</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_091">91</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Asafœtida</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_091">91</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Sumach</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_092">92</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Ginger</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_092">92</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Wormwood</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_093">93</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#XI">XI.</a></th></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Fruits</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_095">95</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#XII">XII.</a></th></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Stone Fruit</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_097">97</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Olive Tree</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_097">97</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Palm Tree</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_100">100</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Cherry Tree</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_102">102</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Apricot Tree</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_103">103</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Peach Tree</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_104">104</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Plum Tree</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_105">105</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#XIII">XIII.</a></th></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Pip Fruit</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_106">106</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Quince Tree</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_106">106</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Pear Tree</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_107">107</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Apple Tree</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_108">108</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Lemon Tree</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_109">109</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Orange Tree</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_110">110</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Fig Tree</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_112">112</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Raspberry Tree</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_115">115</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Currant Tree</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_115">115</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Strawberry Plant</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_115">115</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Mulberry Tree</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_116">116</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#XIV">XIV.</a></th></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Shell Fruit</span><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_viii" id="page_viii"></a>{viii}</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_117">117</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Almond Tree</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_117">117</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Walnut Tree</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_118">118</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Nut Tree</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_120">120</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Pistachio Tree</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_120">120</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Chesnut Tree</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_121">121</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Pomegranate</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_122">122</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#XV">XV.</a></th></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Animal Food</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_123">123</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Rearing of Cattle</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_127">127</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Markets</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_128">128</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Butchers</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_129">129</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#XVI">XVI.</a></th></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Animals</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_133">133</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">The Pig</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_133">133</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">The Ox</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_142">142</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">The Lamb</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_146">146</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">The Kid</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_148">148</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">The Ass</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_150">150</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">The Dog</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_150">150</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#XVII">XVII.</a></th></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Poultry</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_152">152</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">The Cock</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_153">153</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">The Capon</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_154">154</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">The Hen</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_155">155</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">The Chicken</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_156">156</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">The Duck</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_168">168</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">The Goose</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_150">150</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">The Pigeon</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_162">162</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">The Guinea Hen</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_163">163</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">The Turkey Hen</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_168">168</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">The Peacock</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_166">166</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#XVIII">XVIII.</a></th></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Milk, Butter, Cheese, and Eggs</span><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_ix" id="page_ix"></a>{ix}</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_168">168</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Milk</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_168">168</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Butter</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_170">170</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Cheese</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_173">173</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Eggs</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_175">175</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#XIX">XIX.</a></th></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Hunting</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_179">179</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">The Stag</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_182">182</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">The Roebuck</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_184">184</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">The Deer</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_184">184</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">The Wild Boar</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_185">185</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">The Hare</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_188">188</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">The Rabbit</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_189">189</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">The Fox</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_190">190</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">The Hedgehog</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_190">190</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">The Squirrel</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_190">190</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">The Camel</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_190">190</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">The Elephant</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_191">191</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#XX">XX.</a></th></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Feathered Game</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_193">193</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">The Pheasant</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_194">194</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">The Partridge</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_195">195</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">The Quail</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_196">196</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">The Thrush</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_197">197</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">The Blackbird</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_199">199</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">The Starling</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_200">200</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">The Flamingo</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_200">200</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Fig-Pecker, or Beccafico</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_201">201</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">The Ortolan</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_203">203</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">The Ostrich</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_203">203</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">The Stork</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_204">204</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">The Sea-Swallow</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_204">204</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">The Wood-Hen, Bustard, Water-Hen, and Teal</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_206">206</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">The Woodcock, Snipe, Curlew, Crow, Turtle Dove, and Lark</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_207">207</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#XXI">XXI.</a></th></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Fish</span><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_x" id="page_x"></a>{x}</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_210">210</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Sturgeon</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_216">216</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Red Mullet</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_218">218</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Sea-Eel</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_220">220</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Lamprey</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_222">222</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Sea-Wolf</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_223">223</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Scarus, or Parrot-Fish</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_223">223</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Turbot</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_224">224</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Tunny</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_225">225</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Conger-Eel</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_226">226</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Eel</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_227">227</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Pike</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_228">228</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Carp</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_229">229</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Eel-Pout</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_229">229</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Trout</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_230">230</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Gold Fish</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_230">230</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Whiting</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_230">230</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Cod Fish</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_231">231</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Perch</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_232">232</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Scate</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_233">233</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Salmon</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_233">233</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Sepia, or Cuttle-Fish</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_234">234</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Swordfish</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_234">234</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Shad</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_234">234</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Rhombo, or Rhombus</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_235">235</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Mugil</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_235">235</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Mackerel</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_235">235</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Haddock</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_236">236</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Tench</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_236">236</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Dragon Weaver</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_237">237</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Loligo</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_237">237</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Sole</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_237">237</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Angel-Fish</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_237">237</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">File-Fish</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_237">237</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Pilchard</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_238">238</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Loach</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_238">238</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Gudgeon</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_238">238</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Herring</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_239">239</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Anchovy</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_240">240</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Shell-Fish</span><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_xi" id="page_xi"></a>{xi}</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_241">241</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Oysters</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_242">242</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Sea-Hedgehog</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_245">245</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Mussel</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_245">245</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Scallop</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_246">246</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Tortoise</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_246">246</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Sea-Crawfish</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_247">247</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Lobster</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_247">247</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">River Crayfish</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_248">248</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Crab</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_248">248</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Frogs</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_249">249</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#XXII">XXII.</a></th></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">The Cook</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_251">251</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">The Kitchen</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_259">259</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#XXIII">XXIII.</a></th></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Seasonings</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_266">266</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Salt</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_267">267</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Brine</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_268">268</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Digestive Salts</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_269">269</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Garum</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_269">269</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Honey</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_273">273</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Sugar</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_275">275</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Cinnamon</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_275">275</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Cloves</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_276">276</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Pepper</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_277">277</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Verjuice</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_277">277</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Vinegar</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_278">278</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Truffle</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_279">279</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Mushrooms</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_282">282</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#XXIV">XXIV.</a></th></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Pastry</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_284">284</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#XXV">XXV.</a></th></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Water</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_293">293</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#XXVI">XXVI.</a></th></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Beverages</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_299">299</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Tea</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_306">306</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Coffee</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_310">310</a></td></tr> -<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">Chocolate</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_312">312</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#XXVII">XXVII.</a></th></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Drinking Cups</span><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_xii" id="page_xii"></a>{xii}</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_316">316</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#XXVIII">XXVIII.</a></th></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Wine</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_322">322</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Liqueur Wine</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_332">332</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#XXIX">XXIX.</a></th></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Repasts</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_339">339</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#XXX">XXX.</a></th></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Variety of Repasts</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_354">354</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#XXXI">XXXI.</a></th></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">The Dining-Room</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_363">363</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#XXXII">XXXII.</a></th></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">The Table</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_368">368</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">The Table Seats</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_372">372</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#XXXIII">XXXIII.</a></th></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">The Servants</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_376">376</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#XXXIV">XXXIV.</a></th></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">The Guests</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_380">380</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#XXXV">XXXV.</a></th></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">A Roman Supper</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_386">386</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td colspan="2">———</td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Biographical Notes</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_399">399</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Modern Banquets</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_401">401</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Table of References</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_413">413</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Table of Recipes</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_444">444</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><span class="smcap">Index</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_449">449</a></td></tr> -</table> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_xiii" id="page_xiii"></a>{xiii}</span></p> - -<h2 class="eng"><a name="List_of_Illustrations" id="List_of_Illustrations"></a>List of Illustrations.</h2> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="0" summary="" -style="margin:auto auto;max-width:75%;"> -<tr><td> </td><td align="right"><small>Page</small></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#pl_A">PLATE A.</a></th></tr> -<tr valign="top"><td colspan="2" align="center"><span class="smcap">Frontispiece—Portrait of the Author.</span></td></tr> -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#pl_B">PLATE B.</a></th></tr> -<tr valign="top"><td colspan="2" align="center"><span class="smcap">Heaven and Earth.</span></td></tr> -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#pl_B-a">PLATE B*.</a></th></tr> -<tr valign="top"><td colspan="2" align="center"><span class="smcap">Victua, or the Goddess of Gastronomy.</span></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#pl_I">PLATE I.</a></th></tr> -<tr valign="top"><td><span class="smcap">Egyptian Labourers.</span>—No. 1, Egyptian Labourer. No. 2, Sketch of a Plough. No. 3, Basket. No. 4, Egyptian with Sickle, drawn by Horses</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_012">12</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#pl_II">PLATE II.</a></th></tr> -<tr valign="top"><td><span class="smcap">Greek and Roman Ploughs.</span>—Nos. 1 and 2, Greek and Roman Ploughs. No. 3, Plough, turned once or twice. No. 4, Plough, as used by the Gauls</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_014">14</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#pl_III">PLATE III.</a></th></tr> -<tr valign="top"><td><span class="smcap">Agricultural Implements.</span>—No. 1, Plain Sickle. No. 2<span class="smcap">A</span>, Plough, from the Georgics of Virgil. No. 3, Scythe. No. 4, Spade. No. 5, Pick-axe. Nos. 6 and 7, Mattocks</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_016">16</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#pl_IV">PLATE IV.</a></th></tr> -<tr valign="top"><td><span class="smcap">Alcinous’s Hand-Mill</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_025">25</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#pl_V">PLATE V.</a></th></tr> -<tr valign="top"><td><span class="smcap">Jumentariæ Mills</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_026">26</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#pl_VI">PLATE VI.</a></th></tr> -<tr valign="top"><td><span class="smcap">Plautus’s Hand-Mill</span><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_xiv" id="page_xiv"></a>{xiv}</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_027">27</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#pl_VII">PLATE VII.</a></th></tr> -<tr valign="top"><td><span class="smcap">Cappadocia Bread.</span>—No. 1, Loaf of Bread. No. 2, Pastry Mould. No. 3, Cappadocia Bread. No. 4, Mould for ditto</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_038">38</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#pl_VIII">PLATE VIII.</a></th></tr> -<tr valign="top"><td><span class="smcap">Scales and Weights</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_130">130</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#pl_IX">PLATE IX.</a></th></tr> -<tr valign="top"><td><span class="smcap">Varro’s Aviary</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_198">198</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#pl_X">PLATE X.</a></th></tr> -<tr valign="top"><td><span class="smcap">Apicius and Epicurus</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_201">201</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#pl_XI">PLATE XI.</a></th></tr> -<tr valign="top"><td><span class="smcap">Remains of Kitchen Stoves.</span>—No. 1, Kitchen Stove. No. 2. Stock Pot. No. 3, Ditto. No. 4, Ladles. No. 5, Brazier</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_259">259</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#pl_XII">PLATE XII.</a></th></tr> -<tr valign="top"><td><span class="smcap">Stock Pots and Broken Stewpan</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_261">261</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#pl_XIII">PLATE XIII.</a></th></tr> -<tr valign="top"><td><span class="smcap">Kitchen Utensils.</span>—No. 1, Boiler, of Bronze. No. 2, Flat Saucepan. No. 3, Kettle. No. 4, Gridiron. No. 5, Trivet</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_262">262</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#pl_XIV">PLATE XIV.</a></th></tr> -<tr valign="top"><td><span class="smcap">Chafing-Dish and Silver Cup.</span>—No. 1, Chafing-Dish. No. 2, Silver Cup</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_263">263</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#pl_XV">PLATE XV.</a></th></tr> -<tr valign="top"><td><span class="smcap">Spoon, Fork, Knife, Simpulum</span>, &c.—No. 1, Roman Silver Spoon. No. 2, Brass Knife. No. 3, Simpulum. No. 4, Ditto. No. 5, Fork</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_264">264</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#pl_XVI">PLATE XVI.</a></th></tr> -<tr valign="top"><td><span class="smcap">Roman Silver Knife-handle, Silver Spoon, and Deep Dish.</span>—No. 1, Silver Knife-handle. No. 2, Spoon. No. 3, Dish</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_265">265</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#pl_XVII">PLATE XVII.</a></th></tr> -<tr valign="top"><td><span class="smcap">Roman and Egyptian Pails.</span>—No. 1, Pail, of Bronze. No. 2, Pail, with Two Handles (Egyptian)</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_297">297</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#pl_XVIII">PLATE XVIII.</a></th></tr> -<tr valign="top"><td><span class="smcap">Drinking-Cups.</span>—No. 1, Drinking-Cups (Shaded). No. 2, Ditto, Pig’s Head and Dog’s Head</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_316">316</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#pl_XVIII-a">PLATE XVIII.<span class="smcap">A</span></a></th></tr> - -<tr valign="top"><td><span class="smcap">Drinking-Cups.</span>—No. 3, Ram’s Head. No. 4, Boar’s Head<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_xv" id="page_xv"></a>{xv}</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_317">317</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#pl_XIX">PLATE XIX.</a></th></tr> -<tr valign="top"><td><span class="smcap">Drinking-Horns.</span>—Nos. 1 and 2, Drinking-Horns. No. 3, Horn, Aztec’s Head</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_318">318</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#pl_XX">PLATE XX.</a></th></tr> -<tr valign="top"><td><span class="smcap">Crystal Vase</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_319">319</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#pl_XXI">PLATE XXI.</a></th></tr> -<tr valign="top"><td><span class="smcap">Murrhin Cup</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_321">321</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#pl_XXII">PLATE XXII.</a></th></tr> -<tr valign="top"><td><span class="smcap">Relics from Herculaneum.</span>—No. 1, Wine Press. No. 2, Diogenes. No. 3, Beast of Burthen (a toy)</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_325">325</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#pl_XXIII">PLATE XXIII.</a></th></tr> -<tr valign="top"><td><span class="smcap">Colum Nivarum</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_327">327</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#pl_XXIV">PLATE XXIV.</a></th></tr> -<tr valign="top"><td><span class="smcap">Vessels for Holding Wine.</span>—No. 1, Amphora. Nos. 2 and 3, Smaller Dolium. No. 4, Long-neck Bottle</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_328">328</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#pl_XXV">PLATE XXV.</a></th></tr> -<tr valign="top"><td><span class="smcap">Vases for Wine.</span>—No. 1, Large Vase. No. 2, Glass Vase. No. 3, Glass Bottle, with Cup</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_363">363</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#pl_XXVI">PLATE XXVI.</a></th></tr> -<tr valign="top"><td><span class="smcap">Vases for Wine.</span>—No. 1, Glass Vase. No. 2, Ditto. No. 3, Etruscan, Three Handles. No. 4, Large Silver Vase. No. 5, Cantharus</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_364">364</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#pl_XXVI-a">PLATE XXVI.<span class="smcap">A</span></a></th></tr> -<tr valign="top"><td><span class="smcap">Curious Ornamental Terra-Cotta Cups.</span>—No. 1, Goose. No. 2, Teapot. No. 3, Jupiter’s Head</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_365">365</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#pl_XXVI-b">PLATE XXVI.<span class="smcap">B</span></a></th></tr> -<tr valign="top"><td><span class="smcap">House of Brunswick’s Vase</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_366">366</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#pl_XXVII">PLATE XXVII.</a></th></tr> -<tr valign="top"><td><span class="smcap">Vases for Wine.</span>—No. 1, Etruscan Flat Vase. No. 2, Marble Vase. No. 3, Metal Vase. No. 4, Greek Etruscan Drinking Vase</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_370">370</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#pl_XXVIII">PLATE XXVIII.</a></th></tr> -<tr valign="top"><td><span class="smcap">Procillatores and Triclinium.</span>—No. 1, Procillatores. No. 2, Triclinium</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_378">378</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#pl_XXIX">PLATE XXIX.</a></th></tr><tr valign="top"><td><span class="smcap">Roman Supper</span><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_xvi" id="page_xvi"></a>{xvi}</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_386">386</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#pl_XXX">PLATE XXX.</a></th></tr> - -<tr><td>No. 1, Greek Etruscan Vase. No. 2, Greek Terra-Cotta Vase. No. 3, Etruscan Terra-Cotta Vase. No. 4, Glass Amphora, for Falernian Wine. No. 5, Terra-Cotta Amphora, for Falernian Wine</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_390">390</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#pl_XXX-a">PLATE XXX.*</a></th></tr> -<tr valign="top"><td><span class="smcap">Crater, or Drinking Cup</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_391">391</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#pl_XXXI">PLATE XXXI.</a></th></tr> - -<tr><td>No. 1, Curious Silver Dish. Nos. 2 and 3, Silver ditto</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_392">392</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#pl_XXXII">PLATE XXXII.</a></th></tr> -<tr valign="top"><td><span class="smcap">Nero and Heliogabalus</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_398">398</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#pl_XXXIII">PLATE XXXIII.</a></th></tr> -<tr valign="top"><td><span class="smcap">York Banquet</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_404">404</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#pl_XXXIV">PLATE XXXIV.</a></th></tr> -<tr valign="top"><td><span class="smcap">Wild Boar a la Troyenne, and The Hundred Guinea Dish</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_406">406</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#pl_XXXV">PLATE XXXV.</a></th></tr> -<tr valign="top"><td><span class="smcap">Three Silvered Glass Cups</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_407">407</a></td></tr> - -</table> - -<div class="blockquot"> -<p class="cb"> -T H I S W O R K<br /> -<br /> -<span class="eng">Is Dedicated by the Author</span><br /> -<br /> -TO THE<br /> -<br /> -G E N I U S O F G A S T R O N O M Y.<br /> -</p></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_001" id="page_001"></a>{1}</span> </p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="pl_B" id="pl_B"></a> -<a href="images/deus_creator_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/deus_creator.jpg" width="331" height="500" alt="Image not available: " /></a> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_002" id="page_002"></a>{2}</span> </p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_003" id="page_003"></a>{3}</span> </p> - -<h2><img src="images/pantro.png" -width="250" -height="28" -alt="Image not available: PANTROPHEON." -/></h2> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">“I did feast with Cæsar.”<br /></span> -<span class="i5"><span class="smcap">Shakspere.</span>—“<i>Julius Cæsar</i>,” Act iii., <i>Sc.</i> 3.<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">“Dis-moi, ce que tu manges,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Je te dirai ce que tu es.”<br /></span> -<span class="i5"><span class="smcap">Brillat-Savarin.</span>—“<i>Physiologie du Goût.</i>”<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">Thanks</span> to the impressions received in boyhood, Rome and Athens always -present themselves to our minds accompanied by the din of arms, shouts -of victory, or the clamours of plebeians crowded round the popular -tribune. “And yet,” said we, “nations, like individuals, have two modes -of existence distinctly marked—one intellectual and moral, the other -sensual and physical; and both continue to interest through the lapse of -ages.”</p> - -<p>What, for instance, calls forth our sympathies more surely than to -follow from the cradle that city of Romulus—at first so weak, so -obscure, and so despised—through its prodigious developments, until, -having<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_004" id="page_004"></a>{4}</span> become the sovereign mistress of the world, it seems, like -Alexander, to lament that the limits of the globe restrict within so -narrow a compass its ungovernable ardour for conquest, its insatiable -thirst of <i>opima spolia</i> and tyrannical oppression. In like manner, a -mighty river, accounted as nothing at its source, where a child can step -across, receives in its meandrous descent the tribute of waters, which -roll on with increasing violence, and rush at last from their too narrow -bed to inundate distant plains, and spread desolation and terror.</p> - -<p>History has not failed to record, one by one, the battles, victories, -and defeats of nations which no longer exist; it has described their -public life,—their life in open air,—the tumultuous assemblies of the -forum,—the fury of the populace,—the revolts of the camps,—the -barbarous spectacles of those amphiteatres, where the whole pagan -universe engaged in bloody conflict, where gladiators were condemned to -slaughter one another for the pastime of the over-pampered inhabitants -of the Eternal City—sanguinary spectacles, which often consigned twenty -or thirty thousand men to the jaws of death in the space of thirty days!</p> - -<p>But, after all, neither heroes, soldiers, nor people, can be always at -war; they cannot be incessantly at daggers drawn on account of some -open-air election; the applause bestowed on a skilful and courageous -<i>bestiarius</i> is not eternal; captives may be poignarded in the Circus by -way of amusement, but only for a time. Independently of all these -things, there is the home, the fire-side, the prose of life, if you -will; nay, let us say it at once, the business of life—eating and -drinking.</p> - -<p>It is to that we have devoted our vigils, and, in order to arrive at our -aim, we have given an historical sketch of the vegetable and animal -alimentation of man from the earliest ages; therefore it will be easily -understood why we have taken the liberty of saying to the austere Jew, -the voluptuous Athenian, the obsequious or vain-glorious senator of -imperial Rome, and even to the fantastical, prodigal, and cruel Cæsars: -“Tell me what thou eatest, and I will tell thee who thou art.”</p> - -<p>But, it must be confessed that our task was surrounded with -difficulties, and required much laborious patience and obstinate -perseverance. It is easy to penetrate into the temples, the baths, and -the theatres of the ancients; not so to rummage their cellars, pantries, -and kitchens, and study the delicate magnificence of their dining-rooms. -Now it was there, and there alone, that we sought to obtain access.</p> - -<p>With that view we have had recourse to the only possible means:<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_005" id="page_005"></a>{5}</span> we have -interrogated those old memoirs of an extinct civilisation which connect -the present with the past; poets, orators, historians, philosophers, -epistolographers, writers on husbandry, and even those who are the most -frivolous or the most obscure—we have consulted all, examined all, -neglected nothing. Our respectful curiosity has often emboldened us to -peep into the sacred treasure of the annals of the people of God; and -sometimes the doctors of the Primitive Church have furnished us with -interesting traits of manners and customs, together with chance -indications of domestic usages, disseminated, and, as it were, lost in -the midst of grave moral instruction.</p> - -<p>The fatigue of these unwonted researches appeared to us to be fully -compensated by the joy we experienced on finding our hopes satisfied by -some new discovery. Like the botanist, who forgets his lassitude at the -unexpected sight of a desired plant, we no longer remembered the dust of -fatidical volumes, nor the numberless leaves we had turned over, when by -a happy chance our gastronomic enthusiasm espied a curious and rare -dish.</p> - -<p>Thus it is that this work—essay, we ought to call it—has been slowly -and gradually augmented with the spoils of numerous writers of -antiquity, both religious and profane.</p> - -<p>We have avoided, as much as possible, giving to this book a didactic and -magisterial character, which would have ill-accorded with the apparent -lightness of the subject, and might have rendered it tedious to most -readers. We know not whether these researches will be considered -instructive, but we hope they will amuse.</p> - -<p>When we compare the cookery of the ancients with our own—and the -parallel naturally presents itself to the mind—it often betrays strange -anomalies, monstrous differences, singular perversions of taste, and -incomprehensible amalgamations, which baffle every attempt at -justification. Apicius himself, or perhaps the Cœlius of the 3rd -century, to whom we owe the celebrated treatise “<i>De Opeoniis</i>,” would -run great risk—if he were now to rise from his tomb, and attempted to -give vogue to his ten books of recipes—either of passing for a poisoner -or of being put under restraint as a subject decidedly insane. It -follows, then, that although we have borrowed his curious lucubrations, -we leave to the Roman epicurean and to his times the entire -responsibility of his work.</p> - -<p>The reader will also remark, in the course of this volume, asserted -facts of a striking oddity, certain valuations which appear to be -exaggerated,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_006" id="page_006"></a>{6}</span> some descriptions he will pronounce fabulous or -impossible. Now, we have never failed to give our authorities, but we -are far from being willing to add our personal guarantee; so that we -leave all those antique frauds—if any—to be placed to the account of -the writers who have traitorously furnished them.</p> - -<p>We think, however, that most persons will peruse with some interest -(and, let us hope, a little indulgence) these studies on an art which, -like all arts invented by necessity or inspired by pleasure, has kept -pace with the genius of nations, and became more refined and more -perfect in proportion as they themselves became more polite.</p> - -<p>It appears that the luxury and enchantments of the table were first -appreciated by the Assyrians and Persians, those voluptuous Asiatics, -who, by reason of the enervating mildness of the climate, were powerless -to resist sensual seductions.</p> - -<p>Greece—“beloved daughter of the gods”—speedily embellished the -culinary art with all the exquisite delicacy of her poetic genius. “The -people of Athens,” says an amiable writer, whom we regret to quote from -memory, “took delight in exercising their creative power, in giving -existence to new arts, in enlarging the aureola of civilisation. At -their voice, the gods hastened to inhabit the antique oak; they -disported in the fountains and the streams; they dispersed themselves in -gamesome groups on the tops of the mountains and in the shade of the -valleys, while their songs and their balmy breath mingled with the -harmonious whisperings of the gentle breeze.”</p> - -<p>What cooks! what a table! what guests! in that Eden of paganism—that -land of intoxicating perfumes, of generous wines, and inexhaustible -laughter! The Lacedæmonians alone, those cynics of Greece, threw a -saddening shade over the delicious picture of present happiness -undisturbed by any thought of to-morrow.</p> - -<p>Let us not forget that an Athenian, not less witty than nice, and, -moreover, a man of good company, has left us this profound aphorism: -“<i>La viande la plus délicate est celle qui est le moins viande; le -poisson le plus exquis est celui qui est le moins poisson.</i>”</p> - -<p>Rome was long renowned for her austere frugality, and it is remarked -that, during more than five centuries, the art of making bread was there -unknown, which says little for her civilisation and intelligence. -Subsequently, the conquest of Greece, the spoils of the subjugated -world, the prodigious refinements of the Syracusans, gave to the -conquered nations,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_007" id="page_007"></a>{7}</span> says Juvenal, a complete revenge on their -conquerors. The unheard-of excesses of the table swallowed up -patrimonies which seemed to be inexhaustible, and illustrious -dissipators obtained a durable but sad renown.</p> - -<p>The Romans had whimsical tastes, since they dared serve the flesh of -asses and dogs, and ruined themselves to fatten snails. But, after all, -the caprices of fashion, rather than the refinement of sensuality, -compelled them to adopt these strange aliments. Paulus Æmilius, no doubt -a good judge in such matters, formed a high opinion of the elegance -displayed by his compatriots in the entertainments; and he compared a -skilful cook, at the moment when he is planning and arranging a repast, -to a great general.</p> - -<p>We were very anxious to enrich our “<span class="smcap">Pantropheon</span>” with a greater number -of <i>Bills of Fare</i>, or details of banquets; but we have become persuaded -that it is very difficult, at the present day, to procure a complete and -accurate account of the arrangement of feasts at which were seated -guests who died two or three thousand years ago. Save and except the -indications—more or less satisfactory, but always somewhat vague—which -we gather on this subject from Petronius, Athenæus, Apuleius, Macrobius, -Suetonius, and some other writers, we can do little more than establish -analogies, make deductions, and reconstruct the entire edifice of an -antique banquet by the help of a few data, valuable, without doubt, but -almost always incomplete.</p> - -<p>One single passage in Macrobius—a curious monument of Roman -cookery—will supply the place of multiplied researches: it is the -description of a supper given by the Pontiff Lentulus on the day of his -reception. We present it to the amateurs of the magiric art:</p> - -<p>“The first course (<i>ante-cœna</i>) was composed of sea-hedgehogs, raw -oysters in abundance, all sorts of shell-fish, and asparagus. The second -service comprised a fine fatted pullet, a fresh dish of oysters, and -other shell-fish, different kinds of dates, univalvular shell-fish (as -whelks, conchs, &c.), more oysters, but of different kinds, sea-nettles, -beccaficoes, chines of roe-buck and wild boar, fowls covered with a -perfumed paste, a second dish of shell-fish, and purples—a very costly -kind of Crustacea. The third and last course presented several -<i>hors-d’œuvre</i>, a wild boar’s head, fish, a second set of -<i>hors-d’œuvre</i>, ducks, potted river fish, leverets, roast fowls, and -cakes from the marshes of Ancona.”</p> - -<p>All these delicacies would very much surprise an epicurean of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_008" id="page_008"></a>{8}</span> -present day, particularly if they were offered to him in the order -indicated by Macrobius. The text of that writer, as it is handed down to -us, may be imperfect or mutilated; again, he may have described the -supper of Lentulus from memory, regardless of the order prescribed for -those punctilious and learned transitions to which a feast owes all its -value.</p> - -<p>Let us, we would say, in addressing our culinary colleagues, avoid those -deplorable <i>lacunes</i>; let us preserve for future generations, who may be -curious concerning our gastronomic pomp, the minutiæ of our memorable -magiric meetings, prompted, almost without exception, by some highly -civilising idea—a love of the arts, the commercial propagandism, or a -feeling of philanthropy. The Greeks and Romans—egotists, if there ever -were any—supped for themselves, and lived only to sup; our pleasures -are ennobled by views more useful and more elevated. We often dine for -the poor, and we sometimes dance for the afflicted, the widow, and the -orphan.</p> - -<p>Moreover, a most important ethnographical consideration seems to give a -serious interest to the diet of a people, if it be true, as we are -convinced it is, and as we shall probably one day endeavour to -demonstrate, that the manners of individuals, their idiosyncrasies, -inclinations, and intellectual habits, are modified, to a certain -extent, as taste, climate, and circumstances may determine the nature of -their food; an assertion which might be supported by irrefragable -proofs, and would show the justness of the aphorism: “Tell me what thou -eatest, and I will tell thee who thou art.”<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_009" id="page_009"></a>{9}</span></p> - -<p><a name="pl_B-a" id="pl_B-a"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_pg_009_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_009_sml.jpg" width="500" height="288" alt="Image not available: Pl. B" /></a> - -<div class="caption"> -<p>VICTUA<br /> -<i>or</i><br /> -THE GODDESS OF GASTRONOMY</p> -</div></div> - -<h2><a name="I" id="I"></a>I.<br /><br /> -AGRICULTURE</h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">Every</span> nation has attributed the origin of agriculture to some beneficent -Deity. The Egyptians bestowed this honour on Osiris, the Greeks on Ceres -and Triptolemus, the Latins on Saturn, or on their king Janus, whom, in -gratitude, they placed among the gods. All nations, however, agree that, -whoever introduced among them this happy and beneficial discovery, has -been most useful to man by elevating his mind to a state of sociability -and civilization.<a name="anc_i_1" id="anc_i_1"></a><a href="#footnote-i_1"><span class="fnanchor">[I_1]</span></a></p> - -<p>Many learned men have made laborious researches in order to discover, -not only the name of the inventor of agriculture, but the country and -the century in which he lived; some, however, have failed in their -inquiry. And why? Because they have forgotten, in their investigation, -the only book which could give them positive information on the birth of -society, and the first development of human industry. We read in the -Book of Genesis that: “The Lord God took the man, and put him into the -garden of Eden, to dress it and to keep it”<a name="anc_i_2" id="anc_i_2"></a><a href="#footnote-i_2"><span class="fnanchor">[I_2]</span></a> And, after having -related his fatal disobedience, the sacred historian adds: “Therefore -the Lord God sent him forth from the garden of Eden, to till the ground -from whence he was taken.”<a name="anc_i_3" id="anc_i_3"></a><a href="#footnote-i_3"><span class="fnanchor">[I_3]</span></a></p> - -<p>Would it be possible to adduce a more ancient and sublime authority?</p> - -<p>If it be asked why we take Moses as our guide, instead of dating the -origin of human society from those remote periods which are lost in the -night of ages, we invoke one of the most worthy masters of human -science—the illustrious Cuvier—who says:—</p> - -<p>“No western nation can produce an uninterrupted chronology of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_010" id="page_010"></a>{10}</span> more than -three thousand years. Not one of them has any record of connected facts -which bears the stamp of probability anterior to that time, nor even for -two or three centuries after. The Greeks acknowledge that they learned -the art of writing from the Phœnicians thirty or thirty-four -centuries ago; and for a long time after that period their history is -filled with fables, in which they only go back three hundred years to -establish the cradle of their existence as a nation. Of the history of -western Asia we have only a few contradictory extracts, which embrace, -in an unconnected form, about twenty centuries. The first profane -historian with whom we are acquainted by works extant is Herodotus, and -his antiquity does not reach <i>two thousand three hundred years</i>. The -historians consulted by him had written less than <i>a century</i> previous; -and we are enabled to judge what kind of historians they were by the -extravagances handed down to us as extracts from Aristæus, Proconesus, -and some others. Before them they had only poets; and Homer, the master -and eternal model of the west, lived only <i>two thousand seven hundred</i>, -or <i>two thousand eight hundred, years ago</i>. One single nation has -transmitted to us annals, written in prose, before the time of Cyrus: it -is the Jewish nation. That part of the Old Testament called the -<i>Pentateuch</i> has existed in its present form at least ever since the -schism of Jeroboam, as the Samaritans receive it equally with the Jews, -that is to say, that it has assuredly existed more than <i>two thousand -eight hundred</i> years. There is no reason for not attributing the Book of -Genesis to Moses, which would carry us back <i>five hundred</i> years more, -or <i>thirty-three centuries</i>; and it is only necessary to read it in -order to perceive that it is, in part, a compilation of fragments from -antecedent works: wherefore, no one can have the least doubt of its -being the oldest book now possessed by the western nations.”<a name="anc_i_4" id="anc_i_4"></a><a href="#footnote-i_4"><span class="fnanchor">[I_4]</span></a></p> - -<p>The descendants of our first parents—and, first of all, the Hebrew -people, who, as a nation historically considered, must occupy our -foremost attention—devoted all their energy to agricultural labour.</p> - -<p>The chief of the tribe of Judah as well as the youngest son of the tribe -of Benjamin followed the plough, and gathered corn in the fields. Gideon -was thrashing and winnowing his corn, when an angel revealed to him that -he should be the deliverer of Israel;<a name="anc_i_5" id="anc_i_5"></a><a href="#footnote-i_5"><span class="fnanchor">[I_5]</span></a> Ruth was gleaning when Boaz -saw her for the first time;<a name="anc_i_6" id="anc_i_6"></a><a href="#footnote-i_6"><span class="fnanchor">[I_6]</span></a> King Saul was driving his team of oxen -in the ploughed field, when some of his court came and apprized him that -the city of Jabesh was in danger;<a name="anc_i_7" id="anc_i_7"></a><a href="#footnote-i_7"><span class="fnanchor">[I_7]</span></a> and Elisha was called<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_011" id="page_011"></a>{11}</span> away to -prophesy while at work with one of his father’s ploughs.<a name="anc_i_8" id="anc_i_8"></a><a href="#footnote-i_8"><span class="fnanchor">[I_8]</span></a> We could -multiply these incidents without end, to prove what extraordinary -interest the Jews took in agricultural occupations.</p> - -<p>Moses regarded agriculture as the first of all arts, and he enjoined the -Hebrews to apply themselves to it in preference to any other: it was to -the free and pure air of the fields, to the strengthening, healthy, and -laborious country life, that he called their first attention. The sages -of Greece and Rome held the same opinion: in those republics the -tradesman was but an obscure individual, while the tiller of the soil -was considered as a distinguished citizen. The urban tribes yielded -precedence to the rustics, and this latter class supplied the nation -with its generals and its magistrates.<a name="anc_i_9" id="anc_i_9"></a><a href="#footnote-i_9"><span class="fnanchor">[I_9]</span></a> Our present ideas on this -point have materially changed with the times, and our modern Cincinnati -very seldom return to the field to terminate the furrow they have -commenced. The Israelites did not possess this excessive delicacy: they -preserved the taste for agriculture with which their great legislator, -Moses, had inspired them, and which the distribution of land naturally -tended to strengthen. No one, in fact, was allowed to possess enough -ground to tempt him to neglect the smallest portion; nor had any one the -right to dispossess the Hebrew of his father’s field,—even he himself -was forbidden to alienate for ever land from his family.<a name="anc_i_10" id="anc_i_10"></a><a href="#footnote-i_10"><span class="fnanchor">[I_10]</span></a> This wise -disposition did not escape the notice of an ancient heathen -author,<a name="anc_i_11" id="anc_i_11"></a><a href="#footnote-i_11"><span class="fnanchor">[I_11]</span></a> and various states of Greece adopted the same plan; -amongst others, the Locrians, Athenians, and Spartans, who did not allow -their fathers’ inheritance to be sold.<a name="anc_i_12" id="anc_i_12"></a><a href="#footnote-i_12"><span class="fnanchor">[I_12]</span></a></p> - -<p>The plan which we have adopted for our guidance in this work hardly -justifies us in casting more than a glance at the Mosaic legislation; we -shall, therefore, pass over all those prescriptions, all those memorable -prohibitions, which the reader must have so often admired in the Books -of Leviticus and Deuteronomy, and content ourselves with observing that -Moses knew how to find in agriculture an infallible means of developing -the industry of his people, and that, by imposing the necessity of -giving rest to the land every seventh year,<a name="anc_i_13" id="anc_i_13"></a><a href="#footnote-i_13"><span class="fnanchor">[I_13]</span></a> he obliged them, by -the generality of this repose, to have stores in reserve; and -consequently to employ every means of preserving portions of the grain, -fruit, wines, and oil which they had gathered in the course of the six -years preceding.</p> - -<p>Ancient casuists of this nation enter into the most minute details<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_012" id="page_012"></a>{12}</span> on -tillage and sowing, and also on the gathering of olives, on the tithes -which were paid to the priests, and the portion set aside for the poor. -They also mention some species of excellent wheat, barley, rice, figs, -dates, &c., which were gathered in Judea.<a name="anc_i_14" id="anc_i_14"></a><a href="#footnote-i_14"><span class="fnanchor">[I_14]</span></a></p> - -<p>The soil of this delicious country was astonishingly fertile,<a name="anc_i_15" id="anc_i_15"></a><a href="#footnote-i_15"><span class="fnanchor">[I_15]</span></a> the -operation of tillage was easy, and the cattle here supplied a greater -abundance of milk than anywhere else;<a name="anc_i_16" id="anc_i_16"></a><a href="#footnote-i_16"><span class="fnanchor">[I_16]</span></a> we will just remark that -even the names of several localities indicate some of these advantages. -For instance, Capernaum signified a beautiful country town; Gennesareth, -the garden of the groves; Bethsaida, the house of plenty; Nam was -indebted for its sweet name to the beauty of its situation; and Magdela, -on the borders of the sea of Galilee, to its site, and the happy life of -its inhabitants.</p> - -<p>Next to the Hebrews, in agriculture, came the Egyptians, a strange and -fantastical people, who raised the imperishable pyramids, the statue of -Memnon, and the lighthouse of Alexandria, and who yet prayed religiously -every morning to their goddess—a <i>radish</i>, or their gods—<i>leek</i> and -<i>onion</i>.<a name="anc_i_17" id="anc_i_17"></a><a href="#footnote-i_17"><span class="fnanchor">[I_17]</span></a> Whatever there may be of folly and rare industry in this -mixture, we cannot but agree that the art of agriculture was very -ancient in Egypt, as the father of the faithful—Abraham—retired into -that country at a time of famine;<a name="anc_i_18" id="anc_i_18"></a><a href="#footnote-i_18"><span class="fnanchor">[I_18]</span></a> and, later, the sons of Jacob -went there also to purchase corn.<a name="anc_i_19" id="anc_i_19"></a><a href="#footnote-i_19"><span class="fnanchor">[I_19]</span></a></p> - -<p>We know that the Romans called this province the granary of the empire, -and that they drew from it every year twenty million bushels of -corn.<a name="anc_i_20" id="anc_i_20"></a><a href="#footnote-i_20"><span class="fnanchor">[I_20]</span></a> If we are to believe the Egyptians, Osiris, son of Jupiter -(and hence a demi-god of good family), taught them the art of tilling -the ground by aid of the plough.<a name="anc_i_21" id="anc_i_21"></a><a href="#footnote-i_21"><span class="fnanchor">[I_21]</span></a> This instrument, we may easily -believe, was much less complicated than ours of the present day; there -is no doubt that in the beginning, and for a great length of time -afterwards,</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="c">DESCRIPTION OF <a href="#pl_I">PLATE No. I.</a></p> - -<p>No. 1. Represents an Egyptian labourer tilling the ground with a -pickaxe of a simple form; drawn at Thebes, by Mons. Nectoul, member -of the commission of the French expedition in Egypt, from paintings -in the subterranean vaults of Minich.</p> - -<p>No. 2. Is a sketch of the plough, which a great number of Egyptian -figures hold as an attribute; this was taken from the subterranean -vault of Eileithya; it represents the plough guided by a labourer, -and drawn by oxen tied by the horns, and whipped by a second -labourer, whilst a third, placed by the side of the oxen, throws -before them the seeds which are to be covered by the ploughed -earth.</p> - -<p>No. 3. A basket to carry the seeds. On the tombs of the kings of -Thebes is seen painted a sower, with a basket like this, an -attribute which is seen hanging on the back of the divinity Osiris.</p> - -<p>No. 4. Represents an Egyptian with a sickle, much like in shape to -a scythe; and Denon, of the French expedition, proved that corn was -also cut with a scythe.</p></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_013" id="page_013"></a>{13}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="pl_I" id="pl_I"></a> -<a href="images/ill_pg_012_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_012_sml.jpg" width="284" height="468" alt="Image not available: Pl. 1" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">Pl. 1</span> -</div> - -<p class="nind">it was nothing but a long piece of wood without joint, and bent in such -manner that one end went into the ground, whilst the other served to -yoke the oxen;<a name="anc_i_22" id="anc_i_22"></a><a href="#footnote-i_22"><span class="fnanchor">[I_22]</span></a> for it was always these animals which drew the -plough, although Homer seems to give the preference to mules.<a name="anc_i_23" id="anc_i_23"></a><a href="#footnote-i_23"><span class="fnanchor">[I_23]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Greeks, clever imitators of the Egyptians, pretended that Ceres -taught them the art of sowing, reaping, and grinding corn; they made her -goddess of harvest, and applied themselves to the labour of agriculture -with that rare and persevering ability which always characterised these -people, and consequently was often the cause of many things being -attributed to them which they only borrowed from other nations.<a name="anc_i_24" id="anc_i_24"></a><a href="#footnote-i_24"><span class="fnanchor">[I_24]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Romans, future rulers of the world, understood from the first that -the earth claimed their nursing care; and Romulus instituted an order of -priesthood for no other object than the advancement of this useful art. -It was composed of the twelve sons of his nurse, all invested with a -sacerdotal character, who were commanded to offer to Heaven vows and -sacrifices in order to obtain an abundant harvest. They were called -<i>Arvales</i> brothers;<a name="anc_i_25" id="anc_i_25"></a><a href="#footnote-i_25"><span class="fnanchor">[I_25]</span></a> one of them dying, the king took his place, -and continued to fulfil his duty for the rest of his life.<a name="anc_i_26" id="anc_i_26"></a><a href="#footnote-i_26"><span class="fnanchor">[I_26]</span></a></p> - -<p>In the palmy days of the republic, the conquerors of the universe passed -from the army or the senate to their fields;<a name="anc_i_27" id="anc_i_27"></a><a href="#footnote-i_27"><span class="fnanchor">[I_27]</span></a> Seranus was sowing -when called to command the Roman troops, and Quintus Cincinnatus was -ploughing when a deputation came and informed him that he was appointed -dictator.</p> - -<p>Everything in the conduct of the Romans gives evidence of their great -veneration for agriculture. They called the rich, <i>locupletes</i>, that is, -persons who were possessors of a farm or country seat (<i>locus</i>); their -first money was stamped with a sheep or an ox, the symbol of abundance: -they called it <i>pecunia</i>, from <i>pecus</i> (flock). The public treasure was -designated <i>pascua</i>, because the Roman domain consisted, at the -beginning, only of pasturage.</p> - -<p>After the taking of Carthage, the books of the libraries were -distributed to the allied princes of the republic, but the senate -reserved the twenty-eight books of Mago on agriculture.<a name="anc_i_28" id="anc_i_28"></a><a href="#footnote-i_28"><span class="fnanchor">[I_28]</span></a></p> - -<p>We shall briefly point out the principal processes of this art in use -among the Greeks and Romans, or at least those which appear to us most -deserving of interest. Like us, the ancients divided the land in -furrows, whose legal length (if we may so term it) was one hundred and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_014" id="page_014"></a>{14}</span> -thirty feet.<a name="anc_i_29" id="anc_i_29"></a><a href="#footnote-i_29"><span class="fnanchor">[I_29]</span></a> Oxen were never allowed to stop while tracing a -furrow, but on arriving at the end they rested a short time; and when -their task was over they were cleaned with the greatest care, and their -mouths washed with wine.<a name="anc_i_30" id="anc_i_30"></a><a href="#footnote-i_30"><span class="fnanchor">[I_30]</span></a> The ground being well prepared and fit to -receive the seed, the grain was spread on the even surface of the -furrows, and then covered over.<a name="anc_i_31" id="anc_i_31"></a><a href="#footnote-i_31"><span class="fnanchor">[I_31]</span></a></p> - -<p>The primitive plough, already mentioned, was of extreme simplicity. It -had no wheels, but was merely furnished with a handle, to enable the -ploughman to direct it according to his judgment; neither was there any -iron or other metal in its construction. They afterwards made a plough -of two pieces, one of a certain length to put the oxen to, and the other -was shorter to go in the ground; it was similar, in shape, to an anchor. -Such was the style of plough which the Greeks used.<a name="anc_i_32" id="anc_i_32"></a><a href="#footnote-i_32"><span class="fnanchor">[I_32]</span></a> They also very -often employed a sort of fork, with three or four prongs, for the same -purpose.<a name="anc_i_33" id="anc_i_33"></a><a href="#footnote-i_33"><span class="fnanchor">[I_33]</span></a> Pliny gives credit to the Gauls for the invention of the -plough mounted on wheels. The Anglo-Norman plough had no wheels;<a name="anc_i_34" id="anc_i_34"></a><a href="#footnote-i_34"><span class="fnanchor">[I_34]</span></a> -the ploughman guided it with one hand, and carried a stick in the other -to break the clods.</p> - -<p>The Greeks and Romans had not, perhaps, the celebrated guano of our -days, though we would not positively assert it; but they knew of a great -variety of manures, all well adapted to the various soils they wished to -improve. Sometimes they made use of marl, a sort of fat clay;<a name="anc_i_35" id="anc_i_35"></a><a href="#footnote-i_35"><span class="fnanchor">[I_35]</span></a> and -frequently manure from pigeons, blackbirds, and thrushes, which were -fattened in aviaries<a name="anc_i_36" id="anc_i_36"></a><a href="#footnote-i_36"><span class="fnanchor">[I_36]</span></a> for the benefit of Roman epicures. Certain -plants, they thought, required a light layer of ashes, which they -obtained from roots and brushwood;<a name="anc_i_37" id="anc_i_37"></a><a href="#footnote-i_37"><span class="fnanchor">[I_37]</span></a> others succeeded best, -according to their dictum, on land where sheep, goats, &c., had grazed -for a long time.<a name="anc_i_38" id="anc_i_38"></a><a href="#footnote-i_38"><span class="fnanchor">[I_38]</span></a></p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="c">DESCRIPTION OF <a href="#pl_II">PLATE No. II.</a></p> - -<p>Nos. 1 & 2. Greek and Roman plough, made of several pieces; the -first taken from the “Miscelan. Erudit.” of Spon, the second from -an engraved stone in the gallery of Florence.</p> - -<p>No. 3. Plough, made of one crooked piece of wood, turned once or -twice.</p> - -<p>No. 4. Plough, as used by the Gauls, furnished with wheels.</p></div> - -<p>When the harvest season arrived, they joyfully prepared to cut the corn, -with instruments varying in form according to the locality or the fancy -of the master. In one place they adopted the plain sickle,<a name="anc_i_39" id="anc_i_39"></a><a href="#footnote-i_39"><span class="fnanchor">[I_39]</span></a> in -another that with teeth.<a name="anc_i_40" id="anc_i_40"></a><a href="#footnote-i_40"><span class="fnanchor">[I_40]</span></a> Sometimes they mowed the corn, as they -did the meadows, with a scythe;<a name="anc_i_41" id="anc_i_41"></a><a href="#footnote-i_41"><span class="fnanchor">[I_41]</span></a> or else they plucked off the ears -with a kind of fork, armed with five teeth.<a name="anc_i_42" id="anc_i_42"></a><a href="#footnote-i_42"><span class="fnanchor">[I_42]</span></a> A short time after the -harvest, the operation of thrashing generally began. Heavy chariots, -armed with<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_015" id="page_015"></a>{15}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="pl_II" id="pl_II"></a> -<a href="images/ill_pg_014_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_014_sml.jpg" width="261" height="472" alt="Image not available: Pl. 2" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">Pl. 2</span> -</div> - -<p class="nind">pointed teeth, crushed the ears: Varro calls this machine the -“Carthaginian chariot.”<a name="anc_i_43" id="anc_i_43"></a><a href="#footnote-i_43"><span class="fnanchor">[I_43]</span></a> Strabo asserts that the ancient Britons -carried the corn into a large covered area, or barn, where they thrashed -it; adding that, without this precaution, the rain and damp would have -spoiled the grain.<a name="anc_i_44" id="anc_i_44"></a><a href="#footnote-i_44"><span class="fnanchor">[I_44]</span></a> At all events, this kind of thrashing in barns, -with flails and sticks, was not unknown to other countries; Pliny speaks -of it,<a name="anc_i_45" id="anc_i_45"></a><a href="#footnote-i_45"><span class="fnanchor">[I_45]</span></a> and Columella describes it;<a name="anc_i_46" id="anc_i_46"></a><a href="#footnote-i_46"><span class="fnanchor">[I_46]</span></a> we may add that the -Egyptians were also very probably acquainted with this method, since the -Jews, who had submitted to their power, employed it themselves.<a name="anc_i_47" id="anc_i_47"></a><a href="#footnote-i_47"><span class="fnanchor">[I_47]</span></a> -When the corn had been thrashed, winnowed, and put into baskets very -similar to our own of the present day,<a name="anc_i_48" id="anc_i_48"></a><a href="#footnote-i_48"><span class="fnanchor">[I_48]</span></a> they immediately studied -the best means of preserving it: some preferred granaries exposed to a -mild temperature, others had extensive edifices with thick brick walls -without openings, except one hole only, in the roof, to admit light and -air.</p> - -<p>The Spaniards, Africans, and Cappadocians, dug deep ditches, from which -they excluded all moisture; they covered the bottom and lined the sides -with straw, then put in the grain, and covered it up. The ancients were -of opinion that corn in the ear could, by this means, be preserved a -great number of years.<a name="anc_i_49" id="anc_i_49"></a><a href="#footnote-i_49"><span class="fnanchor">[I_49]</span></a></p> - -<p>If it is desirable to keep corn for any length of time, choose the -finest and best grown. After having worked it, make a pile as high as -the ceiling will permit. Cover with a layer of quicklime, powdered, of -about three inches thick; then, with a watering-pot, moisten this lime, -which forms a crust with the corn. The outside seeds bud, and shoot -forth a stalk, which perishes in winter. This corn is only to be touched -when necessity requires it. At Sedan, a warehouse has been seen, hewed -out of the rock and tolerably damp, in which there had been a -considerable pile of corn for the last hundred and ten years. It was -covered with a crust a foot thick, on which persons might walk without -bending or breaking it in the slightest degree.</p> - -<p>Marshal Vauban proposed eating corn in soup, without being ground; it -was boiled during two or three hours in water, and when the grains had -burst, a little salt, butter, or milk, was added. This food is very -nice, not unwholesome, and might be employed when flour is scarce, -heated, or half-rotten.—<span class="smcap">Dutour.</span></p> - -<p>The Chinese instituted a ceremony which had for its base to honour the -profession of agriculture: every year, at the time of ploughing the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_016" id="page_016"></a>{16}</span> -fields, the emperor with all his court paid a visit to his country -residence near Pekin, and then marked out several furrows with his -plough.</p> - -<p>In 1793, the National Convention of France instituted also a similar -fête; and the president of the local administration of his county was to -mark out a furrow.</p> - -<p>In 1848 a grand republican procession took place through Paris, to the -Champ de Mars, wherein agriculture played a prominent part.</p> - -<p>The first treatise on agriculture was printed in 1538; and its -importance has been so much felt from that period, that there are now in -France more than one hundred and twenty societies of agriculture, who -distribute prizes to encourage discoveries for the improvement of this -science.</p> - -<p>We have, in our days, the Royal Agricultural Society of England, which -also awards prizes;<a name="anc_v" id="anc_v"></a><a href="#footnote_v"><span class="fnanchor">[V]</span></a> and through such institutions all information can -be obtained on the successive progresses made in that indispensable art, -which may be said to have arrived to such a degree of perfection, that -future generations may find some difficulty in improving upon it. One -great evidence of which is, the immense number of samples of -agricultural produce, machines, and implements of husbandry, which great -and the glorious Exhibition of 1851 has ushered to the world.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="c">DESCRIPTION OF <a href="#pl_III">PLATE No. III.</a></p> - -<p>No. 1. Is the plain sickle. No. 2. Another, with teeth.</p> - -<p>No. 3. A scythe, very similar to those now in use.</p> - -<p>No. 4. A spade; its handle is supplied with a double crossbar, -fixed at a little distance off the spade, to support the foot; it -is still so used in Italy and the southern parts of France.</p> - -<p>No. 5. A pickaxe, as it was found engraved on the various -sarcophagi; the pick end was sometimes flattened, and then called -pick-axe.</p> - -<p>Nos. 6 and 7. The mattocks; the first was drawn from an engraved -stone in the “Monuments Antiq.” of Winckelmann.</p> - -<p>No. 2 <span class="smcap">A</span>. Represents a plough, composed according to the “Georgics” -of Virgil.</p></div> - -<p>Previous to the arrival of the Romans, the ancient Britons paid but -little attention to agriculture. Their intestine discords left them -scarcely any leisure to cultivate their fields, or apply themselves to -the improvement of an art which flourishes only in peaceful times. They -reared a great number of cattle; but their chief corn was barley, of -which they made their favourite drink. They put the grain in the ear -into barns, and beat it out as they wanted it. Those inhabitants of the -island who were the least civilized subsisted solely on milk and the -flesh of animals,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_017" id="page_017"></a>{17}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="pl_III" id="pl_III"></a> -<a href="images/ill_pg_016_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_016_sml.jpg" width="288" height="457" alt="Image not available: Pl. 3" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">Pl. 3</span> -</div> - -<p class="nind">which they had learned to master by their skill.<a name="anc_i_50" id="anc_i_50"></a><a href="#footnote-i_50"><span class="fnanchor">[I_50]</span></a> But the people of -this nation, for which Heaven had in reserve such a brilliant destiny, -knew how to endure hunger, cold, and fatigue, without a murmur. A Briton -passed entire days immersed to the neck in the stagnant waters of a -marsh; a few roots sufficed for his nourishment, and, if we are to -believe Dio, his frugal habits enabled him to appease the craving of his -stomach with an aliment composed of ingredients no longer known, and of -which he took each time, at long intervals, a quantity not exceeding in -size that of a bean.<a name="anc_i_51" id="anc_i_51"></a><a href="#footnote-i_51"><span class="fnanchor">[I_51]</span></a></p> - -<p>Let us add that the art of gardening was known rather early in Great -Britain, and that marl was employed to manure the land.<a name="anc_i_52" id="anc_i_52"></a><a href="#footnote-i_52"><span class="fnanchor">[I_52]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Anglo-Saxons employed themselves diligently in the cultivation of -the soil; they established farms, sowed grain, and reared cattle. The -fleece of their sheep furnished them with precious wool, which they -spun, and then converted into sumptuous clothing.<a name="anc_i_53" id="anc_i_53"></a><a href="#footnote-i_53"><span class="fnanchor">[I_53]</span></a></p> - -<p>Strutt gives us a curious detail of rural occupations at that epoch. We -will cite the original text:</p> - -<p>“January exhibits the husbandman in the fields at plough, while his -attendant, diligently following, is sowing the grain.</p> - -<p>“February. The grain being put into the earth, the next care was to -prune their trees, crop their vines, and place them in order.</p> - -<p>“March. Then we follow them into the garden, where the industrious -labourer is digging up the ground, and sowing the vegetables for the -ensuing season.</p> - -<p>“April. Now, taking leave of the laborious husbandman, we see the -nobleman regaling with his friends, and passing the pleasant month in -carousings, banquetings, and music.</p> - -<p>“May brings the lord into the field to examine his flock, and -superintend the shearing of the sheep.</p> - -<p>“June. With this month comes the gladsome time of harvest. Here are some -cutting down the corn, while it is, by others, bound up in sheaves and -laid into the carts, to be conveyed to the barns and granaries; in the -meantime they are spirited up to their labours by the shrill sound of -the enlivening horn.</p> - -<p>“July. Here we find them employed in lopping the trees and felling of -timber, &c.</p> - -<p>“August. In this month they cut down the barley with which they made -their old and best beloved drink (ale).<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_018" id="page_018"></a>{18}</span></p> - -<p>“September. Here we find the lord, attended by his huntsmen, pursuing -and chasing the wild boars in the woods and forests.</p> - -<p>“October. And here he is amusing himself with the exercise of that old -and noble pastime, hawking.</p> - -<p>“November. This month returns us again to the labourers, who are here -heating and preparing their utensils.</p> - -<p>“December. In this last month we find them thrashing out the grain, -while some winnow or rather sift it, to free it from the chaff, and -others carry it out in large baskets to the granaries. In the meantime, -the steward keeps an account of the quantity, by means of an indented or -notched stick.”<a name="anc_i_54" id="anc_i_54"></a><a href="#footnote-i_54"><span class="fnanchor">[I_54]</span></a></p> - -<p>Agriculture was always protected with paternal solicitude by a prince, -whose name will ever remind us of the sanguinary day of Saint -Bartholomew. Here is a textual passage from the edict issued by Charles -IX., the 18th October, 1571.</p> - -<p>“We have commanded and ordained, and do hereby command and ordain, that -no man engaged in the cultivation of land, by himself, his servants, and -his family, with intent to raise grain and fruit necessary for the -sustenance of men and beasts, shall be liable to the process of -execution for debt, nor on any account whatsoever, neither in his own -person, nor his bed, horses, mares, mules, asses, oxen, cows, pigs, -goats, sheep, poultry, ploughs, carts, waggons, harrows, barrows, nor -any other species or kind of cattle or goods serving in the said tillage -and occupation. * * * The said husbandmen being under our protection and -safeguard, seeing that we have so placed them and do place them by these -presents.”<a name="anc_i_55" id="anc_i_55"></a><a href="#footnote-i_55"><span class="fnanchor">[I_55]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_019" id="page_019"></a>{19}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="II" id="II"></a>II.<br /><br /> -CEREALS.</h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">The</span> nomenclature which the Romans have left us of their various kinds of -corn is so obscure and uncertain, that some modern writers are -continually contradicting each other, and, by these means, have raised -doubts which render our task more difficult, instead of enlightening us -on the subject.</p> - -<p>We shall do all in our power to avoid the censure which we take the -liberty of passing upon them.</p> - -<p>“<i>Triticum</i>,” wheat, or corn; “<i>Blé</i>,” from the ancient Latin word -“<i>Bladus</i>,” which signifies fruit or seed. The botanist Michaux has -discovered in Persia, on a mountain four days’ journey from Hamadan, the -place where wheat (a species known as <i>spelt</i>, from the Latin <i>spelta</i>) -is indigenous to the soil, from which we may presume that wheat has its -origin in that country, or some part of Asia not far from Persia. This -grain was more cultivated formerly than it is now; nevertheless, it is -still gathered in Italy, Switzerland, Alsace, in the Limousin and in -Picardy, to make bread, with spelt, a greater quantity of leaven, and, -above all, a little salt. This bread is white, light, savoury, and keeps -moist for several days.—<span class="smcap">Parmentier.</span></p> - -<p><i>Robus</i>, a variety of corn heavier than triticum, and remarkable for its -brilliant polish.</p> - -<p>Every year, on the 25th of April, an appeal was made to the god Robigus, -to prevent the mildew from corrupting this fine specimen of corn. This -festival was founded by the great king, Numa Pompilius.<a name="anc_ii_1" id="anc_ii_1"></a><a href="#footnote-ii_1"><span class="fnanchor">[II_1]</span></a></p> - -<p><i>Siligo</i>, a beautiful quality of wheat, of great whiteness, but lighter -in weight than the preceding kind.<a name="anc_ii_2" id="anc_ii_2"></a><a href="#footnote-ii_2"><span class="fnanchor">[II_2]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_020" id="page_020"></a>{20}</span></p> - -<p><i>Trimestre</i>, a kind of siligo, sown in Spring, and which was ready for -reaping three months afterwards.</p> - -<p><i>Granea</i>, the grain merely deprived of its husk: it was boiled in water, -to which milk was added.<a name="anc_ii_3" id="anc_ii_3"></a><a href="#footnote-ii_3"><span class="fnanchor">[II_3]</span></a></p> - -<p><i>Hordeum</i>, barley.<a name="anc_ii_4" id="anc_ii_4"></a><a href="#footnote-ii_4"><span class="fnanchor">[II_4]</span></a> The flour of this corn was the food of the -Jewish soldiers.<a name="anc_ii_5" id="anc_ii_5"></a><a href="#footnote-ii_5"><span class="fnanchor">[II_5]</span></a> It was, with the Athenians, a favourite dish, but -among the Romans an ignominious food. Augustus threatened the cohorts -that, should they not fight bravely, he would punish every tenth man -with death, and give the remainder barley for food.<a name="anc_ii_6" id="anc_ii_6"></a><a href="#footnote-ii_6"><span class="fnanchor">[II_6]</span></a> This corn was -certainly in use among the Egyptians in the time of Moses, since one of -the plagues which afflicted that people was the loss of the barley in -the ear before it came to maturity.<a name="anc_ii_7" id="anc_ii_7"></a><a href="#footnote-ii_7"><span class="fnanchor">[II_7]</span></a></p> - -<p><i>Panicum</i>, panic grass.<a name="anc_ii_8" id="anc_ii_8"></a><a href="#footnote-ii_8"><span class="fnanchor">[II_8]</span></a> Certain inhabitants of Thrace and of the -borders of the Euxine, or Black Sea, preferred this to all other -food.<a name="anc_ii_9" id="anc_ii_9"></a><a href="#footnote-ii_9"><span class="fnanchor">[II_9]</span></a></p> - -<p><i>Millium</i>, millet, was used for making excellent cakes.<a name="anc_ii_10" id="anc_ii_10"></a><a href="#footnote-ii_10"><span class="fnanchor">[II_10]</span></a></p> - -<p><i>Secale</i>, rye.<a name="anc_ii_11" id="anc_ii_11"></a><a href="#footnote-ii_11"><span class="fnanchor">[II_11]</span></a> Pliny thinks this grain detestable, and only good -to appease extreme hunger.<a name="anc_ii_12" id="anc_ii_12"></a><a href="#footnote-ii_12"><span class="fnanchor">[II_12]</span></a></p> - -<p><i>Avena</i>, oats.<a name="anc_ii_13" id="anc_ii_13"></a><a href="#footnote-ii_13"><span class="fnanchor">[II_13]</span></a> Virgil had but very little esteem for this -grain.<a name="anc_ii_14" id="anc_ii_14"></a><a href="#footnote-ii_14"><span class="fnanchor">[II_14]</span></a> The Romans cut it in the spring for the cattle to eat -green; and the Germans, in the time of Pliny, took great care in its -cultivation, and made a pulp of it which they thought excellent.<a name="anc_ii_15" id="anc_ii_15"></a><a href="#footnote-ii_15"><span class="fnanchor">[II_15]</span></a></p> - -<p><i>Oryza</i>, rice. Pliny<a name="anc_ii_16" id="anc_ii_16"></a><a href="#footnote-ii_16"><span class="fnanchor">[II_16]</span></a> and Dioscorides<a name="anc_ii_17" id="anc_ii_17"></a><a href="#footnote-ii_17"><span class="fnanchor">[II_17]</span></a> class it with the -wheats; whereas Galen, on the contrary, places it among vegetables.</p> - -<p>Rice was rather scarce in Greece at the time when Theophrastus lived: it -had lately been brought from India, 286 years before Christ.</p> - -<p>The ancients considered it most nutritious and fattening.<a name="anc_ii_18" id="anc_ii_18"></a><a href="#footnote-ii_18"><span class="fnanchor">[II_18]</span></a></p> - -<p><i>Zea</i>, spelt, or rice wheat,<a name="anc_ii_19" id="anc_ii_19"></a><a href="#footnote-ii_19"><span class="fnanchor">[II_19]</span></a> equally esteemed by Greeks and -Latins.<a name="anc_ii_20" id="anc_ii_20"></a><a href="#footnote-ii_20"><span class="fnanchor">[II_20]</span></a></p> - -<p><i>Sesamum</i>, sesame. Pliny classes this among the seeds sown in -March,<a name="anc_ii_21" id="anc_ii_21"></a><a href="#footnote-ii_21"><span class="fnanchor">[II_21]</span></a> and Columella places it among the vegetables.<a name="anc_ii_22" id="anc_ii_22"></a><a href="#footnote-ii_22"><span class="fnanchor">[II_22]</span></a> The -Romans knew how to prepare this corn in a manner at once wholesome and -agreeable. They made it into very dainty cakes, which were served at -dessert,<a name="anc_ii_23" id="anc_ii_23"></a><a href="#footnote-ii_23"><span class="fnanchor">[II_23]</span></a> whence sprang the saying <i>sesame cakes</i>, which was -applied to those sweet and flattering expressions called honied words -(in French, <i>paroles sucrées</i>).<a name="anc_ii_24" id="anc_ii_24"></a><a href="#footnote-ii_24"><span class="fnanchor">[II_24]</span></a></p> - -<p>A people so restless and unmanageable as were the Greeks and Romans, -when pressed by hunger, required that the greatest care should be -exercised for the supply of corn, and the easy sale of this precious -provision. Hence nothing could be wiser than their regulations on this -subject.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_021" id="page_021"></a>{21}</span></p> - -<p>One of the laws of the twelve tables punished with death the individual -who had premeditatedly set fire to his neighbour’s corn; and inflicted a -fine or the whip on any one who caused so great a calamity by his -imprudence.<a name="anc_ii_25" id="anc_ii_25"></a><a href="#footnote-ii_25"><span class="fnanchor">[II_25]</span></a></p> - -<p>In Greece, a special magistrate, the “<i>Sitocome</i>,” was charged with the -inspection of the corn; and various officers, such as the <i>sitones</i>, the -<i>sitophylaces</i>, and the <i>sitologes</i>, were appointed to watch over its -purchase.</p> - -<p>And lastly, public distributors, under the names of <i>siturches</i> and -<i>sitometres</i>, were exclusively occupied with the allotment of -corn;<a name="anc_ii_26" id="anc_ii_26"></a><a href="#footnote-ii_26"><span class="fnanchor">[II_26]</span></a> they prevented any one from purchasing a greater quantity -than was actually necessary for his wants. The law forbad the delivery -of more than fifty measures to one individual.<a name="anc_ii_27" id="anc_ii_27"></a><a href="#footnote-ii_27"><span class="fnanchor">[II_27]</span></a> The Roman -government was so convinced that abundance of bread was one of the best -means of maintaining public tranquillity,<a name="anc_ii_28" id="anc_ii_28"></a><a href="#footnote-ii_28"><span class="fnanchor">[II_28]</span></a> that Julius Cæsar -created two prætors, and two ediles or magistrates, to preside over the -purchase, conveyance, storing, and gratuitous distribution of -wheat.<a name="anc_ii_29" id="anc_ii_29"></a><a href="#footnote-ii_29"><span class="fnanchor">[II_29]</span></a> For we know that this people of kings, powerful but -frivolous, and careless of the morrow, submitted to the incredible -follies of their rulers on the sole condition of being well fed and -amused by them.<a name="anc_ii_30" id="anc_ii_30"></a><a href="#footnote-ii_30"><span class="fnanchor">[II_30]</span></a> In the time of Demosthenes the common price of -wheat in Greece was about 3<i>s.</i> 11<i>d.</i> the four bushels.<a name="anc_ii_31" id="anc_ii_31"></a><a href="#footnote-ii_31"><span class="fnanchor">[II_31]</span></a> In Rome, -during the republic, wheat was distributed to 60,000 persons.<a name="anc_ii_32" id="anc_ii_32"></a><a href="#footnote-ii_32"><span class="fnanchor">[II_32]</span></a> -Julius Cæsar desired that 320,000 plebeians should enjoy this bounty; -but this number was afterwards reduced to 150,000,<a name="anc_ii_33" id="anc_ii_33"></a><a href="#footnote-ii_33"><span class="fnanchor">[II_33]</span></a> or perhaps, -according to Cassius, to 160,000.<a name="anc_ii_34" id="anc_ii_34"></a><a href="#footnote-ii_34"><span class="fnanchor">[II_34]</span></a> Augustus fed, at first, 200,000 -citizens, then only 120,000.<a name="anc_ii_35" id="anc_ii_35"></a><a href="#footnote-ii_35"><span class="fnanchor">[II_35]</span></a> Nero, who always went to extremes -either in good or evil, gave corn throughout the empire to 220,000 idle -people, including the soldiers of the prætorian guard.<a name="anc_ii_36" id="anc_ii_36"></a><a href="#footnote-ii_36"><span class="fnanchor">[II_36]</span></a> Adrian -added to this list all the children of the poor: the boys to the age of -18, and the girls to that of 14. Finally, this liberality, more politic -than generous, and so foreign to our present manners, was carried, under -the Emperor Severus, to 75,000 bushels per day.<a name="anc_ii_37" id="anc_ii_37"></a><a href="#footnote-ii_37"><span class="fnanchor">[II_37]</span></a> The bushel -weighed twenty pounds of twelve ounces each.<a name="anc_ii_38" id="anc_ii_38"></a><a href="#footnote-ii_38"><span class="fnanchor">[II_38]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Greeks esteemed highly the corn of Bœotia, Thrace, and Pontus. -The Romans preferred that of Lombardy, the present duchy of Spoletta, -Sicily, Sardinia, and a part of Gaul. Sardinia, Sicily, and Corsica, -supplied them every year with 800,000 bushels of twenty-one pounds -weight, which made them call those islands “the sweet nurses of -Rome.”<a name="anc_ii_39" id="anc_ii_39"></a><a href="#footnote-ii_39"><span class="fnanchor">[II_39]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_022" id="page_022"></a>{22}</span> Africa furnished 40,000,000 of bushels; Egypt 20,000,000, -and the remainder came from Greece, Asia, Syria, Gaul, and Spain.<a name="anc_ii_40" id="anc_ii_40"></a><a href="#footnote-ii_40"><span class="fnanchor">[II_40]</span></a></p> - -<p>The erudite are not agreed as to the aboriginal country of corn: some -say it is Egypt, others Tartary, and the learned Bailly, as well as the -traveller Pallas, affirm that it grows spontaneously in Siberia. Be that -as it may, the Phocians brought it to Marseilles before the Romans had -penetrated into Gaul. The Gauls ate the corn cooked, or bruised in a -mortar; they did not know for a long time how to make fermented bread.</p> - -<p>The Chinese attribute to Chin-Nong, the second of the nine emperors of -China who preceded the establishment of the dynasties (more than 2,207 -years <small>B.C.</small>), the discovery of corn, rice, and other cereals.</p> - -<p>We find in the Black Book of the Exchequer, that in the reign of Henry -I., when they reduced the victuals (for the king’s household) to the -estimate of money, a measure of wheat to make bread for the service of -one hundred men, one day, was valued only at one shilling.<a name="anc_ii_41" id="anc_ii_41"></a><a href="#footnote-ii_41"><span class="fnanchor">[II_41]</span></a></p> - -<p>But in the reign of Henry III., about the 43rd year, the price was -mounted up to fifteen and twenty shillings a quarter.<a name="anc_ii_42" id="anc_ii_42"></a><a href="#footnote-ii_42"><span class="fnanchor">[II_42]</span></a></p> - -<p>The ancients, as well as the moderns, caused wheat to undergo certain -preparations to enable it to be transformed into bread, we shall -enumerate in the following chapter the different processes by which they -obtained flour, the essential foundation of the food of man.</p> - -<p><i>Cereals.</i>—This name has been given to all plants of the gramineous -family, the fundamental base of the food of man. The <i>cereals</i>, properly -speaking, are limited to wheat, rye, barley, and oats; however, there -are others, such as canary grass, Indian corn, millet, rice, &c., &c. -The immediate and most abundant principle of all these plants is the -<i>fécule</i>, or flour, and the vegeto-animal matter of which bread is made, -and other preparations for food, and fermented liquors; these cereals -are given green or dry to cattle as forage; their straw covers houses, -and serves as litter and manure.</p> - -<p>Cereals was also the name given to a feast in honour of Ceres, -instituted at Rome by the edile Mumonius, and celebrated every year on -the 7th of April. The ladies of Rome appeared clothed in white, and -holding torches in remembrance of the travels of that divinity. Cakes -sprinkled with salt and grains of incense, honey, milk, and wine, were -offered to that goddess. Pigs were sacrificed to her. The <i>cereals</i> of -the Romans were the <i>thesmophories</i> with the Greeks.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_023" id="page_023"></a>{23}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="III" id="III"></a>III.<br /><br /> -GRINDING OF CORN.</h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">At</span> a very distant period, when gods, not over edifying in their conduct, -descended at times from the heights of Olympus to enliven their -immortality amongst mortals, we are told that a divine aliment charmed -the palate of Jupiter and that of his quarrelsome wife; nay, of all -those who inhabited the celestial abode. We are ignorant of the hour at -which the table of the god of thunder was laid; but we know well that he -breakfasted, dined, and supped on a delicious ambrosia—a liquid -substance, it may be presumed, since it flowed for the first time from -one of the horns of the goat Amalthæa, and of rather an insipid taste, -if we are to believe Ibicus,<a name="anc_iii_1" id="anc_iii_1"></a><a href="#footnote-iii_1"><span class="fnanchor">[III_1]</span></a> who describes it as nine times -sweeter than honey. The gods have disappeared; we would forgive them for -leaving us, had they left behind them the recipe of this marvellous -substance; but its composition and essence remain unknown, and man, not -skilful enough to appropriate to his use the inexhaustible treasures of -culinary science, began his hard gastrophagic apprenticeship by -devouring acorns which grew in the forests.<a name="anc_iii_2" id="anc_iii_2"></a><a href="#footnote-iii_2"><span class="fnanchor">[III_2]</span></a> This is assuredly -very mortifying to our feelings; but you may believe it on the authority -of a poet, for we well know that a poet never tells an untruth.<a name="anc_iii_3" id="anc_iii_3"></a><a href="#footnote-iii_3"><span class="fnanchor">[III_3]</span></a> -Besides, fabulous antiquity adds new weight to the fact, by informing us -that the Arcadian Pelasgus<a name="anc_iii_4" id="anc_iii_4"></a><a href="#footnote-iii_4"><span class="fnanchor">[III_4]</span></a> deserved that altars should be erected -to his memory, for having taught the Greeks to choose in preference the -beech-nut, as the most delicate of this class of comestibles, according -to the tender Virgil, who, however, only judged of it by hearsay.<a name="anc_iii_5" id="anc_iii_5"></a><a href="#footnote-iii_5"><span class="fnanchor">[III_5]</span></a></p> - -<p>There is a great degree of probability in the supposition that the -different races of the north, each inhabiting a country covered with<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_024" id="page_024"></a>{24}</span> -immense forests, lived for a long time on the fruit of these different -kinds of oak which they possessed in such abundance. The great respect -they had for the tree, the pompous ceremony with which the high priest -of the Druids came every year to cut away the parasitical plant which -clings to it, the very name of the Druids—derived from a celtic word -signifying <i>oak</i>—all seem to point out the first food of our ancestors. -The oak furnished the primitive aliment of almost every nation, in their -original state of barbarism. Some of them had even preserved a taste for -the acorn after they became civilized. Among the Arcadians and the -Spaniards, the acorn was regarded as a delicious article of food. We -read in Pliny that, in his time, these latter had them served on their -tables at dessert, after they had been roasted in the wood-ashes to -soften them. According to Champier, this custom still subsisted in Spain -in the 16th century.</p> - -<p>The regulation made by Chrodegand, Bishop of Metz, about the end of the -8th century, for the canons, says expressly<a name="anc_iii_6" id="anc_iii_6"></a><a href="#footnote-iii_6"><span class="fnanchor">[III_6]</span></a> that if, in an -unfavorable year, the acorn or flour should fail, it will be the duty of -the bishop to provide it.</p> - -<p>When, animated by the most praiseworthy zeal and courage, Du Bellay, -Bishop of Mans, came, in 1546, to represent to Francis I. the frightful -misery of the provinces, and that of his diocese in particular, he -assured the king that in many localities the people had nothing to eat -but bread made of acorns.</p> - -<p>But mankind, who soon get tired of every thing, even of acorns and -beech-nuts, began to dislike this wholesome and abundant food, when -Ceres, the ancient Queen of Sicily, came just <i>à propos</i> to give a few -lessons in the art of sowing the earth.<a name="anc_iii_7" id="anc_iii_7"></a><a href="#footnote-iii_7"><span class="fnanchor">[III_7]</span></a> Corn once brought into -fashion acquired a surprising repute, and the ancient food was given up -to the animal which it fattens; and if this last were eaten, it was no -doubt in gratitude for the fruit mankind had formerly so much loved.</p> - -<p>The good Ceres did not stop there; it was very well to have corn, but to -know how to grind it was also requisite; and the human race was then so -lamentably backward, that one might have gone round the world without -meeting a miller, or even the shadow of the meanest little mill.</p> - -<p>The Queen of Sicily then invented grinding-stones,<a name="anc_iii_8" id="anc_iii_8"></a><a href="#footnote-iii_8"><span class="fnanchor">[III_8]</span></a> but, as the -most useful discoveries require time to be known and improved upon, the -way of grinding corn with stones did not become uniform everywhere. The -inhabitants of Etruria (now called Tuscany) pounded the grain in<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_025" id="page_025"></a>{25}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="pl_IV" id="pl_IV"></a> -<a href="images/ill_pg_024_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_024_sml.jpg" width="385" height="200" alt="Image not available: Pl. 4. - -ALCINOUS’S HAND MILL." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">Pl. 4. - -ALCINOUS’S HAND MILL.</span> -</div> - -<p class="nind">mortars.<a name="anc_iii_9" id="anc_iii_9"></a><a href="#footnote-iii_9"><span class="fnanchor">[III_9]</span></a> The early Romans adopted the same means, and gave the -name of <i>Pistores</i>, grinders, to those persons who followed this -occupation.<a name="anc_iii_10" id="anc_iii_10"></a><a href="#footnote-iii_10"><span class="fnanchor">[III_10]</span></a> Pliny relates that one of the ancient families of -Rome took the surname of <i>Piso</i>, having descended, as they believed, -from the inventor of the art of bruising wheat with pestles.<a name="anc_iii_11" id="anc_iii_11"></a><a href="#footnote-iii_11"><span class="fnanchor">[III_11]</span></a></p> - -<p>Down to the latest days of the Roman republic the corn was bruised after -being roasted. The pestle used for this purpose was somewhat pointed, -and suspended by the aid of a ring to the extremity of a flexible lever, -supported by an axle.<a name="anc_iii_12" id="anc_iii_12"></a><a href="#footnote-iii_12"><span class="fnanchor">[III_12]</span></a></p> - -<p>From the time of Moses the Hebrews used grinding-stones: several -passages of the Holy Scripture clearly indicate this. Among others: “No -man shall take the nether or the upper millstone to pledge; for he -taketh a man’s life to pledge.”<a name="anc_iii_13" id="anc_iii_13"></a><a href="#footnote-iii_13"><span class="fnanchor">[III_13]</span></a> Another text shows that the -Egyptians used grinding-stones with handles, at about the same -period.<a name="anc_iii_14" id="anc_iii_14"></a><a href="#footnote-iii_14"><span class="fnanchor">[III_14]</span></a> The Israelites, when in the Desert, employed the same -means to pound manna,<a name="anc_iii_15" id="anc_iii_15"></a><a href="#footnote-iii_15"><span class="fnanchor">[III_15]</span></a> and after their settlement in the Promised -Land, these utensils served to grind corn.</p> - -<p>The Greeks, following faithfully the system from which they had but -slightly deviated, have honoured King Miletus as the inventor of -grinding-stones;<a name="anc_iii_16" id="anc_iii_16"></a><a href="#footnote-iii_16"><span class="fnanchor">[III_16]</span></a> the upper part was of wood, and armed with -heads of iron nails. A passage of Homer would seem to lead us to believe -that the grain was first crushed with rollers on stone slabs, which -operation would naturally lead to the crushing of it between -grinding-stones.<a name="anc_iii_17" id="anc_iii_17"></a><a href="#footnote-iii_17"><span class="fnanchor">[III_17]</span></a> However this may be, these last were no doubt -still scarce in the heroic times, since the same poet does not fail to -inform us that one was to be seen in the gardens of Alcinous, chief of -the Phæacians.<a name="anc_iii_18" id="anc_iii_18"></a><a href="#footnote-iii_18"><span class="fnanchor">[III_18]</span></a> This kind of decoration would but very little -please the taste of our modern horticulturists.</p> - -<p>Nearly two centuries before our era, in the year of Rome 562, the -Romans, victorious in Asia, brought with them handmills.<a name="anc_iii_19" id="anc_iii_19"></a><a href="#footnote-iii_19"><span class="fnanchor">[III_19]</span></a> This -conquest of industry soon made an immense stride, and to the labour of -man succeeded by degrees the obedient aid of horses and asses. Hence the -two kind of mills so often mentioned—by hand, <i>manuales</i>; by animal, -<i>iumentariæ</i><a name="anc_iii_20" id="anc_iii_20"></a><a href="#footnote-iii_20"><span class="fnanchor">[III_20]</span></a></p> - -<p>Delighted with a discovery which supplied an important necessity of -life, the Romans invented a divinity to whom they might show their -gratitude, and Olympus was honoured with a new inmate: the goddess Mola, -protectress and patroness of mills and millstones.<a name="anc_iii_21" id="anc_iii_21"></a><a href="#footnote-iii_21"><span class="fnanchor">[III_21]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_026" id="page_026"></a>{26}</span></p> - -<p>Now Mola was one of a large family; she had several charming sisters, -like herself, who could not endure living among the commoners, while -Ganymede served ambrosia to their elder sister, or poured out for her -the nectar of the gods. Besides, it cost so little to be made a goddess! -A few grains of incense, more or less, who would grudge such a trifle? -The Flamine of Jupiter, whom they consulted, was at first rather -refractory. He feared the crowding of Olympus; he doubted whether polite -intercourse could ever be established between gods of high birth and -little divinities covered with flour; but when at last the high priest -had ceased speaking, the deputation removed all scruples by a reasonable -bribe, and the sisters of Mola were forthwith enrolled in the list of -immortals, under the designation of well-beloved daughters of the god of -war.<a name="anc_iii_22" id="anc_iii_22"></a><a href="#footnote-iii_22"><span class="fnanchor">[III_22]</span></a> Mars was rather ungentlemanly on the occasion, but the high -priest undertook to bring him to reason.</p> - -<p>This took place about the end of May, and the Romans resolved to -celebrate, from the 9th of the following June, the festival of the -patroness of Roman millers, and of her sisters, the newly elected -divinities; the ceremony was worthy of those for whose apotheosis it was -instituted, and every year, on the same day, new rejoicings consecrated -this great event.<a name="anc_iii_23" id="anc_iii_23"></a><a href="#footnote-iii_23"><span class="fnanchor">[III_23]</span></a></p> - -<p>The mills ceased to turn and to grind, a profound silence reigned in the -mills; the asses, patient and indefatigable movers of an incessant -rotation, took a lively part, whether or no, in the festivals of which -they became the principal actors. These honest creatures’ heads<a name="anc_iii_24" id="anc_iii_24"></a><a href="#footnote-iii_24"><span class="fnanchor">[III_24]</span></a> -were crowned with roses, and necklaces of little leaves encircled their -necks and fell gracefully on their chests;<a name="anc_iii_25" id="anc_iii_25"></a><a href="#footnote-iii_25"><span class="fnanchor">[III_25]</span></a> we need not add that, -on this day, the thick bandages which generally covered the eyes of -these useful labourers were removed.<a name="anc_iii_26" id="anc_iii_26"></a><a href="#footnote-iii_26"><span class="fnanchor">[III_26]</span></a></p> - -<p>Independently of this annual solemnity, the asses, turners of the mills, -had sometimes their windfalls,—that is to say, hours of holiday, during -which they could freely graze on the neighbouring thistles. This -happened when an awkward slave performed badly the duties of fanning his -master, or spilt carelessly a few drops of Falernian wine when filling -his cup. The unfortunate creature was immediately condemned to work at -the mill;<a name="anc_iii_27" id="anc_iii_27"></a><a href="#footnote-iii_27"><span class="fnanchor">[III_27]</span></a> he was deprived of his name, and received in lieu that -of the quadruped he replaced—<i>Asinus</i>;<a name="anc_iii_28" id="anc_iii_28"></a><a href="#footnote-iii_28"><span class="fnanchor">[III_28]</span></a> and the instrument of -his sufferings, by a refinement of strange irony, was called his -manger.<a name="anc_iii_29" id="anc_iii_29"></a><a href="#footnote-iii_29"><span class="fnanchor">[III_29]</span></a></p> - -<p>It sometimes happened that a free man, reduced to extreme<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_027" id="page_027"></a>{27}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="pl_V" id="pl_V"></a> -<a href="images/ill_pg_026_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_026_sml.jpg" width="386" height="260" alt="Image not available: Pl. 5. - -ASINUS OR JUMENTARIÆ MILL." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">Pl. 5.<br /> - -ASINUS OR JUMENTARIÆ MILL.</span> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="pl_VI" id="pl_VI"></a> -<a href="images/ill_pg_027_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_027_sml.jpg" width="297" height="450" alt="Image not available: Pl. 6. - -PLAUTUS’S MILL." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">Pl. 6. - -PLAUTUS’S MILL.</span> -</div> - -<p class="nind">indigence, had recourse to this hard occupation, in order to earn a -living. Plautus was obliged to work at it, and we know that he wrote -some of his comedies during the short moments of leisure allowed him by -his master the miller.<a name="anc_iii_30" id="anc_iii_30"></a><a href="#footnote-iii_30"><span class="fnanchor">[III_30]</span></a></p> - -<p>An important modification was subsequently made in the mechanism of -mills: we mean hydraulic mills, whose introduction into Italy is of -uncertain date, although Pomponius Sabinus asserts (but without proof), -that this discovery took place in the reign of Julius Cæsar. They were -known in Rome at the time of the Emperor Augustus, and Vitruvius -mentions them.<a name="anc_iii_31" id="anc_iii_31"></a><a href="#footnote-iii_31"><span class="fnanchor">[III_31]</span></a> More than sixty years afterwards, Pliny speaks of -them as rare and extraordinary machines.<a name="anc_iii_32" id="anc_iii_32"></a><a href="#footnote-iii_32"><span class="fnanchor">[III_32]</span></a></p> - -<p>Some writers have thought that <i>hydraulæ</i>, or <i>hydromilæ</i>, watermills, -were invented by Vitruvius, and that this celebrated architect made -experiments with them, which were forgotten or neglected after his -death.<a name="anc_iii_33" id="anc_iii_33"></a><a href="#footnote-iii_33"><span class="fnanchor">[III_33]</span></a> Curious readers, who are not afraid of the venerable dust -with which time has covered many useful though despised books, will -consult with benefit the learned treatise of Goetzius on the mills of -the ancients, printed in the year 1730.<a name="anc_iii_34" id="anc_iii_34"></a><a href="#footnote-iii_34"><span class="fnanchor">[III_34]</span></a></p> - -<p>Strabo, who flourished under the Emperor Augustus, tells us a watermill -was to be seen near the town of Cabire and the palace of -Mithridates.<a name="anc_iii_35" id="anc_iii_35"></a><a href="#footnote-iii_35"><span class="fnanchor">[III_35]</span></a></p> - -<p>Nevertheless, this useful invention, which we could not now dispense -with, made so little progress during four centuries that princes thought -it a duty to protect, by several laws, those establishments, still rare, -but which people began to appreciate. Honorius and Arcadius decreed, in -398, that any person who turned the water from mills for his own profit, -should be punished by a fine of five pounds weight in gold; and that any -magistrate encouraging such an act should pay a like sum.<a name="anc_iii_36" id="anc_iii_36"></a><a href="#footnote-iii_36"><span class="fnanchor">[III_36]</span></a> The -Emperor Zeno<a name="anc_iii_37" id="anc_iii_37"></a><a href="#footnote-iii_37"><span class="fnanchor">[III_37]</span></a> maintained this law, and rendered it still more -stringent by adding, that the edifices or land into which the water had -been turned should be confiscated.<a name="anc_iii_38" id="anc_iii_38"></a><a href="#footnote-iii_38"><span class="fnanchor">[III_38]</span></a></p> - -<p>It is to be regretted that the precise origin of the miller’s profession -cannot be traced; but, alas! in almost all the arts which tend to -preserve life, we discover the same uncertainty: we are ignorant of the -period of their discovery, and it frequently happens that but few traces -of their development remain. On the contrary, the dates of battles, or -scourges which have decimated the human race, are certain enough: the -stain of blood leaves an impression which can never be effaced.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_028" id="page_028"></a>{28}</span></p> - -<p>In the midst of the conflicting opinions of the writers of antiquity, -what appears most probable is, that watermills were invented in Asia -Minor, and that they were not really used in Rome till the reign of -Honorius and Arcadius.</p> - -<p>Under the rule of the Emperor Justinian, when the Goths besieged the -Roman city,<a name="anc_iii_39" id="anc_iii_39"></a><a href="#footnote-iii_39"><span class="fnanchor">[III_39]</span></a> the celebrated Belisarius thought of constructing -some on the Tiber. The means which he employed were simple and -ingenious. Two boats firmly fixed, at two feet distance from each other, -caused the stream to give a rapid motion to the hydraulic wheel, -suspended by its axle between these lateral points of support; and this -wheel turned the mills.<a name="anc_iii_40" id="anc_iii_40"></a><a href="#footnote-iii_40"><span class="fnanchor">[III_40]</span></a> This system differed but little from -that of Vitruvius, which he described more than five centuries before, -and is explained in a few words. A little wheel, fixed to the axle of -the hydraulic wheel, turned a third wheel, adhering to the axle of the -upper grindstone, and the corn fell between the two stones in passing -from the hopper placed above.<a name="anc_iii_41" id="anc_iii_41"></a><a href="#footnote-iii_41"><span class="fnanchor">[III_41]</span></a></p> - -<p>These grindstones were made of a kind of porous lava, which retained its -roughness, or rather, its roughness was renewed, by the continual -friction.<a name="anc_iii_42" id="anc_iii_42"></a><a href="#footnote-iii_42"><span class="fnanchor">[III_42]</span></a></p> - -<p>The introduction of watermills, however, did not prevent the use of -those worked by hand, which habit, cheapness, and facility of removal -recommended: these antique mills of the Hebrews, the Egyptians, and the -Greeks of the heroic times, were only five feet high. Each family was -supplied with as many as they might require. In the residence of -Ulysses, that great king of little Ithaca, there were as many as twelve. -Women turned the mills, and were obliged to deliver a certain quantity -of flour before leaving the task imposed on them.<a name="anc_iii_43" id="anc_iii_43"></a><a href="#footnote-iii_43"><span class="fnanchor">[III_43]</span></a></p> - -<p>Corn was at first ground in a portative hand mill; by the Britons, women -and young girls were employed in this kind of labour.<a name="anc_iii_44" id="anc_iii_44"></a><a href="#footnote-iii_44"><span class="fnanchor">[III_44]</span></a></p> - -<p>It is, however, probable that watermills were known at a very early -period in England. Strutt cites a passage from a charter by Ulfere, in -664, which warrants the supposition.<a name="anc_iii_45" id="anc_iii_45"></a><a href="#footnote-iii_45"><span class="fnanchor">[III_45]</span></a></p> - -<p>It would be difficult to point out the precise date of the first -employment of mills; nevertheless, Somner informs us, in his -“Antiquities of Canterbury,”<a name="anc_iii_46" id="anc_iii_46"></a><a href="#footnote-iii_46"><span class="fnanchor">[III_46]</span></a> that the Anglo-Normans of that -place ground their corn. “There was,” says he, “sometime a windmill -standing neare the nonnery without Ridingate, which the hospitall held -by the grant of the nonnes there: the conditions mutually agreed upon, -at the time of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_029" id="page_029"></a>{29}</span> the grant, were that the nonnes, bearing the fourth part -of the charge of the mill, should reap the fourth part of the profit of -it, &c. * * * and this about the reign of King John.”</p> - -<p>The bran was separated from the flour by means of a sieve; the dough was -made, and sent to the bakers to be baked. The poor contented themselves -with cakes baked under the ashes.<a name="anc_iii_47" id="anc_iii_47"></a><a href="#footnote-iii_47"><span class="fnanchor">[III_47]</span></a></p> - -<p>Something remains to be said of windmills. We will say but little on the -subject: this aerial mechanism—which the knight-errant, Don Quixote, of -imperishable memory, thought it necessary to fight with sword and -lance—was unknown before the Christian era in any nation whose writers -have transmitted to us the least traces of their civilisation; but -nothing proves that windmills were unknown to others. This opinion seems -to be well-founded, from a passage of the chronicler Winceslaus, who -relates, in his “History of Bohemia,” that the first watermill raised in -that country was in the year of Christ 718, and that no other was in use -before (<i>antea</i>) but mills built on the summit of mountains, which were -put in motion by the wind.<a name="anc_iii_48" id="anc_iii_48"></a><a href="#footnote-iii_48"><span class="fnanchor">[III_48]</span></a> It appears, then, that there is some -untruth in the assertion, that this sort of mill was introduced into -Europe, about the year 1040, by the first Crusaders, on their return -from the East.<a name="anc_iii_49" id="anc_iii_49"></a><a href="#footnote-iii_49"><span class="fnanchor">[III_49]</span></a> At all events this question is no doubt very -deserving the laborious search of the learned; it has but a secondary -interest for the gastrophilist. It matters little to him whether he owes -the grinding of his corn to the breath of a zephyr or to the slimy -source of a river; all he requires is good flour, because it enters into -a great number of culinary preparations—and, first of all, bread is -made from it.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_030" id="page_030"></a>{30}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="IV" id="IV"></a>IV.<br /><br /> -MANIPULATION OF FLOUR.</h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">Man</span> has not always eaten fine wheaten bread, biscuits, or sponge cakes; -and, for many centuries, the inexperience of his palate prevented his -imagining or understanding those magiric combinations, that science of -good living,<a name="anc_iv_1" id="anc_iv_1"></a><a href="#footnote-iv_1"><span class="fnanchor">[IV_1]</span></a> which requires time and serious study. Nature makes -us hungry; art creates, modifies, and directs the appetite—these are -incontestable truths, which this work will serve to unfold, and, if -necessary, to prove, should any of our readers unfortunately not be -already convinced of the depth of these wise axioms.</p> - -<p>Let us go no further back than the year 2000 before the Christian era, -and enter together the tent of the father of nations—<i>Abraham</i>. We -might lead you to the fire-side of each of the nineteen patriarchs who -preceded him, but that would take us too far.</p> - -<p>In the interior of this nomad dwelling, Sarah, the venerable companion -of the Pastor-King, has just prepared, with flour and water, round -pieces of flattened paste, which she places on the hearth, and covers -afterwards with hot ashes.<a name="anc_iv_2" id="anc_iv_2"></a><a href="#footnote-iv_2"><span class="fnanchor">[IV_2]</span></a> It was thus that princes and servants -made bread in the East. The Jewish people who inhabited the Desert ate -no other kind;<a name="anc_iv_3" id="anc_iv_3"></a><a href="#footnote-iv_3"><span class="fnanchor">[IV_3]</span></a> and the Prophet Elijah, reposing under the shade of -a juniper tree, appeased his hunger with this simple and primitive -food.<a name="anc_iv_4" id="anc_iv_4"></a><a href="#footnote-iv_4"><span class="fnanchor">[IV_4]</span></a> Sometimes, however, at certain periods of solemnity, the -Hebrews used a gridiron, placed on the coals, or a frying-pan, into -which they put the paste;<a name="anc_iv_5" id="anc_iv_5"></a><a href="#footnote-iv_5"><span class="fnanchor">[IV_5]</span></a> but these various modes of cooking -produced a kind of cake, dry, thin, and brittle,<a name="anc_iv_6" id="anc_iv_6"></a><a href="#footnote-iv_6"><span class="fnanchor">[IV_6]</span></a> somewhat like the -Jewish Passover cake, which was broken by the hand without the aid of a -knife;<a name="anc_iv_7" id="anc_iv_7"></a><a href="#footnote-iv_7"><span class="fnanchor">[IV_7]</span></a> they were called <i>lechem</i>, choice and chief food,<a name="anc_iv_8" id="anc_iv_8"></a><a href="#footnote-iv_8"><span class="fnanchor">[IV_8]</span></a> and -the mother of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_031" id="page_031"></a>{31}</span> the family generally renewed them each day.<a name="anc_iv_9" id="anc_iv_9"></a><a href="#footnote-iv_9"><span class="fnanchor">[IV_9]</span></a> The -inhabitants of the East thought so much of bread, that it was considered -a special mark of regard and hospitality to the person to whom it was -offered.<a name="anc_iv_10" id="anc_iv_10"></a><a href="#footnote-iv_10"><span class="fnanchor">[IV_10]</span></a> Boaz says to Ruth: “At meal time come thou hither and -eat of the bread, and dip thy morsel in the vinegar.”<a name="anc_iv_11" id="anc_iv_11"></a><a href="#footnote-iv_11"><span class="fnanchor">[IV_11]</span></a></p> - -<p>Although the use of bread without leaven and baked under the ashes was -common among the Jews,<a name="anc_iv_12" id="anc_iv_12"></a><a href="#footnote-iv_12"><span class="fnanchor">[IV_12]</span></a> it is nevertheless evident that they knew -and employed, at an early period, some substance to raise the dough, -which they designated by the name of <i>seor</i>. It was, perhaps, flour -diluted with water left to get sour. Pliny assures us that of all means -employed by the ancients to render bread savoury and light, this is the -most simple and easy.<a name="anc_iv_13" id="anc_iv_13"></a><a href="#footnote-iv_13"><span class="fnanchor">[IV_13]</span></a></p> - -<p>It appears not unlikely that the Hebrews learned from the Egyptians how -to prepare the leaven they made use of. The period at which an allusion -is made to it for the first time, in the Bible, renders this supposition -likely. It is when the people of God were about to escape from the -slavery of the Egyptians, and are preparing to celebrate the Passover, -on the eve of their setting out for the Desert.<a name="anc_iv_14" id="anc_iv_14"></a><a href="#footnote-iv_14"><span class="fnanchor">[IV_14]</span></a> The Israelites, -therefore, knew how to make bread more digestive and of better taste -than is generally believed—not so good, perhaps, as our delicate fancy -bread, but better than the clumsy lumps of paste baked under the ashes, -in the frying-pan, or on the gridiron.<a name="anc_iv_15" id="anc_iv_15"></a><a href="#footnote-iv_15"><span class="fnanchor">[IV_15]</span></a> They had also ovens at a -very distant period of their history—some four thousand years -ago.<a name="anc_iv_16" id="anc_iv_16"></a><a href="#footnote-iv_16"><span class="fnanchor">[IV_16]</span></a> These ovens were made with bricks or clay; afterwards they -used iron and brass;<a name="anc_iv_17" id="anc_iv_17"></a><a href="#footnote-iv_17"><span class="fnanchor">[IV_17]</span></a> but nothing in the Holy Writings shows us -that any one exercised among them the trade of a baker, at least at this -early period, nor, indeed, very much later.</p> - -<p>The chief baker or butler, whose punishment and death Joseph foretold, -when he interpreted that officer’s dream, was an Egyptian, and belonged -to King Pharaoh.<a name="anc_iv_18" id="anc_iv_18"></a><a href="#footnote-iv_18"><span class="fnanchor">[IV_18]</span></a></p> - -<p>Hitherto an infallible book has been our guide; let us now dive into the -dark and almost boundless regions of fabulous antiquity.</p> - -<p>The most frightful god of which the fevered imagination of man could -possibly form an idea—a god with the face and legs of a goat, the -horrible Pan!—according to some credulous writers, taught mortals the -art of making and baking bread. The name even of this food, they say, -furnishes an incontestable proof of this assertion.<a name="anc_iv_19" id="anc_iv_19"></a><a href="#footnote-iv_19"><span class="fnanchor">[IV_19]</span></a> You are -mistaken, reply more sensible writers; it is in the Greek word <i>pan</i>,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_032" id="page_032"></a>{32}</span> -signifying <i>all</i>, that we must seek the etymology of this nutritious -substance, which accompanies all other aliments, takes their place if -needful, and agrees equally with all mankind.<a name="anc_iv_20" id="anc_iv_20"></a><a href="#footnote-iv_20"><span class="fnanchor">[IV_20]</span></a></p> - -<p>This, one would think, is conclusive; but the learned, the philologist, -and every Procrustes of literature, protests against a halt with so fair -a field before him. It is from the word <i>pascere</i>,<a name="anc_iv_21" id="anc_iv_21"></a><a href="#footnote-iv_21"><span class="fnanchor">[IV_21]</span></a> proudly -exclaims another interpreter, that the substantive, bread, is -derived.<a name="anc_iv_22" id="anc_iv_22"></a><a href="#footnote-iv_22"><span class="fnanchor">[IV_22]</span></a> This word has been rather disfigured on its way: think -of the length of time it has been travelling down to us.</p> - -<p>Ceres taught the Greeks how to cultivate corn; they learned from -Megalarte and Megalomaze how to knead flour and bake it in ovens.<a name="anc_iv_23" id="anc_iv_23"></a><a href="#footnote-iv_23"><span class="fnanchor">[IV_23]</span></a> -The gratitude of the Bœotians erected statues and altars to their -memories, and shortly after, Greece could boast of having obtained the -most skilful bakers in the world. The bread of Athens and Megara had a -well deserved reputation: its whiteness dazzled the eye, and its taste -was exquisite.<a name="anc_iv_24" id="anc_iv_24"></a><a href="#footnote-iv_24"><span class="fnanchor">[IV_24]</span></a> This voluptuous and fickle nation very soon began -to tire of so intelligent and simple a manipulation, and must needs mix -with the paste a host of ingredients which greatly altered its flavour: -and seventy-two different sorts of bread<a name="anc_iv_25" id="anc_iv_25"></a><a href="#footnote-iv_25"><span class="fnanchor">[IV_25]</span></a> took birth from the -scientific association of milk, oil, honey, cheese, and wine with the -best flour.<a name="anc_iv_26" id="anc_iv_26"></a><a href="#footnote-iv_26"><span class="fnanchor">[IV_26]</span></a> All these varieties were called by the generic name -of <i>artos</i>, bread; to which was added an epithet which prevented the -mistaking of one kind for another.</p> - -<p>The bread-market at Athens was very amusing; women (for the fair sex -busied themselves with this trade) waited, seated, by the side of their -baskets until Mercury should send them customers, and woe to those who -came late, or whose evil genius led them to find fault with either the -quality, quantity, or price of the goods. Have you ever heard the ladies -of Billingsgate playing off their pleasant jokes on a timid countryman, -or a foreigner, whose accent had betrayed him? It is a running fire of -puns and crude picturesque expressions which nothing can resist; our -Greek market-women would have been more than a match for them—can we -bestow upon them greater praise?<a name="anc_iv_27" id="anc_iv_27"></a><a href="#footnote-iv_27"><span class="fnanchor">[IV_27]</span></a></p> - -<p>Some of them sold <i>azumos</i>, a delicate sort of biscuit, but rather -tasteless, prepared without leaven;<a name="anc_iv_28" id="anc_iv_28"></a><a href="#footnote-iv_28"><span class="fnanchor">[IV_28]</span></a> others—irresistible -syrens—invited children to taste of the relishing <i>artolaganos</i>, in -which a renowned baker had the talent of introducing wine, pepper, oil, -and milk.<a name="anc_iv_29" id="anc_iv_29"></a><a href="#footnote-iv_29"><span class="fnanchor">[IV_29]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_033" id="page_033"></a>{33}</span> Here the sparkling eyes of a rich epicurean were on -the look out for some <i>escarites</i>, a very light paste, seasoned with new -sweet wine and honey,<a name="anc_iv_30" id="anc_iv_30"></a><a href="#footnote-iv_30"><span class="fnanchor">[IV_30]</span></a> and which was relished even by fatigued -appetites at the close of a repast.<a name="anc_iv_31" id="anc_iv_31"></a><a href="#footnote-iv_31"><span class="fnanchor">[IV_31]</span></a> The poorer people made their -choice among heaps of <i>dolyres</i>, or <i>typhes</i>: they were coarse compounds -of rye and barley;<a name="anc_iv_32" id="anc_iv_32"></a><a href="#footnote-iv_32"><span class="fnanchor">[IV_32]</span></a> the ladies of fashion (<i>petites maitresses</i>) -preferred the puff cakes called <i>placites</i>,<a name="anc_iv_33" id="anc_iv_33"></a><a href="#footnote-iv_33"><span class="fnanchor">[IV_33]</span></a> or the sweet -<i>melitutes</i>, whose exquisite and perfumed flour was delicately kneaded -with the precious honey of Mount Hymettus.<a name="anc_iv_34" id="anc_iv_34"></a><a href="#footnote-iv_34"><span class="fnanchor">[IV_34]</span></a> Lastly, the robust -workman of the Pyræus bought the <i>tyrontes</i>, bread mixed with -cheese,<a name="anc_iv_35" id="anc_iv_35"></a><a href="#footnote-iv_35"><span class="fnanchor">[IV_35]</span></a> which the higher classes of society in Athens abhorred, -and which even the middling classes excluded from their tables.</p> - -<p>Let us add to this imperfect enumeration, that the Greeks baked their -bread in several different manners: some in ovens, others under ashes, -over charcoal, or between two pieces of iron, similar to our <i>gauffre</i> -moulds, and under a bell, or cover of some metal with a rim round the -top, and fire over it.<a name="anc_iv_36" id="anc_iv_36"></a><a href="#footnote-iv_36"><span class="fnanchor">[IV_36]</span></a> For making a batch of bread, they employed -nine pounds six ounces of leaven to twelve bushels of flour.<a name="anc_iv_37" id="anc_iv_37"></a><a href="#footnote-iv_37"><span class="fnanchor">[IV_37]</span></a> With -regard to their ovens, in the construction of which they excelled, they -always took particular care to place them near a handmill,<a name="anc_iv_38" id="anc_iv_38"></a><a href="#footnote-iv_38"><span class="fnanchor">[IV_38]</span></a> in -order that the various processes that the wheat had to undergo should -take place with ease and promptitude.</p> - -<p>The Romans were for a long time <i>Pultiphagists</i>, or eaters of gruel, -&c.;<a name="anc_iv_39" id="anc_iv_39"></a><a href="#footnote-iv_39"><span class="fnanchor">[IV_39]</span></a> and it would be difficult to ascertain with accuracy the -precise period at which they gave a preference to bread; they no doubt -knew of it before the year 365 of Rome, for, at the siege of the Capitol -by the Gauls, Jupiter, who protected the besieged, thought of nothing -better to get them out of their difficulties than to appear at night to -their general, Manlius, and to give him the following advice: “Make,” -said he, “bread with all the flour you have left in store, and throw it -to the enemy to show them that Rome has no apprehension of being reduced -by famine.” This stratagem, worthy of a Merry Andrew, pleased Manlius so -much, that he immediately put it into execution. The Gauls fled, Master -Jupiter was highly delighted with the trick he had played, and thereby -the Romans got rid of this swarm of barbarians.<a name="anc_iv_40" id="anc_iv_40"></a><a href="#footnote-iv_40"><span class="fnanchor">[IV_40]</span></a></p> - -<p>Whether this little story be true or not, the people of Romulus had a -decided taste for gruel; it was a national dish, and was only -discontinued to be given to the soldiers, defenders of the republic, -when it was<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_034" id="page_034"></a>{34}</span> perceived that their laborious duties required more -substantial food.<a name="anc_iv_41" id="anc_iv_41"></a><a href="#footnote-iv_41"><span class="fnanchor">[IV_41]</span></a> The Romans made their gruel of all kinds of -flour.</p> - -<p>King Numa (1715 <small>B.C.</small>), guided by the advice of the nymph, Egeria, taught -his subjects the art of parching corn, of converting it into flour by -means of mortars, and of making that gruel with which he liked to regale -himself.</p> - -<p>This good prince was rather fond of interfering in what did not concern -him, and the royal compound was afterwards cooked in the public -bakehouses, which the piety of the sovereign placed under the protection -of the powerful Fornax, a goddess unknown till then, and who soon became -the object of general and fervent worship.<a name="anc_iv_42" id="anc_iv_42"></a><a href="#footnote-iv_42"><span class="fnanchor">[IV_42]</span></a></p> - -<p>There is but one step from gruel to bread: the Romans perceived it. Thus -this favourite dish lost its reputation, and the worship of Fornax -somewhat cooled. But, on the other hand, there was still the smell of -cakes on all sides; cooking on the hearth, on the coals, in small -bell-stoves, and in large baking pans, until ultimately they became -acquainted with the use of ovens.<a name="anc_iv_43" id="anc_iv_43"></a><a href="#footnote-iv_43"><span class="fnanchor">[IV_43]</span></a></p> - -<p>At last, Rome began to have them built, under the reign of Tarquinius -Superbus, about 630 years before the Christian era. They were solid -constructions, immoveable, and very like those of the present -day.<a name="anc_iv_44" id="anc_iv_44"></a><a href="#footnote-iv_44"><span class="fnanchor">[IV_44]</span></a> Men were employed to keep up the necessary degree of heat; -and their useful profession (thanks to the strange caprices which so -tyrannically rule the social hierarchy) became one of the vilest and -most sordid occupations in the capital of the world.<a name="anc_iv_45" id="anc_iv_45"></a><a href="#footnote-iv_45"><span class="fnanchor">[IV_45]</span></a> These ovens -were ordered to be built far away from all edifices, in order to prevent -accidents by fire;<a name="anc_iv_46" id="anc_iv_46"></a><a href="#footnote-iv_46"><span class="fnanchor">[IV_46]</span></a> an excellent precaution, where so many -incautious and merry old gossips came daily to bake their bread.</p> - -<p>Once there, those worthy plebeians amused themselves by giving full -scope to their noisy fun, slandering their neighbours freely and -charitably, telling each other all the little scandal they had picked up -here and there, among the good souls in their neighbourhood. Hence these -public places of labour and incessant babbling were called the “gossip -bakehouses.”<a name="anc_iv_47" id="anc_iv_47"></a><a href="#footnote-iv_47"><span class="fnanchor">[IV_47]</span></a></p> - -<p>These joyous meetings continued until the arrival of Greek bakers, 170 -years <small>B.C.</small>, who followed the victorious armies of the republic on their -return from Macedonia.<a name="anc_iv_48" id="anc_iv_48"></a><a href="#footnote-iv_48"><span class="fnanchor">[IV_48]</span></a> These new operatives effected a complete -revolution in the art of making bread: they reformed the taste of their -masters, and, by degrees, the proverbial frugality of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_035" id="page_035"></a>{35}</span> conquerors of -the universe gave way to the exquisite researches and wonderful -delicacies of those whom they had subdued.</p> - -<p>The Romans perceived the importance of perpetuating the talent of these -strangers, and converting it eventually into a national industry. With -these views, they gave them Roman colleagues, and subsequently they were -formed into a college, or sort of association, which no member could -quit on any pretext whatever. The son followed his father’s profession, -and he who married the daughter of a baker became one himself.<a name="anc_iv_49" id="anc_iv_49"></a><a href="#footnote-iv_49"><span class="fnanchor">[IV_49]</span></a> -Sometimes one of these privileged artisans was raised to the dignity of -senator, as an honour to his colleagues; but in that case he was -required to abandon his fortune to the person who took his place; he -might, however, decline the dignity, and remain at his -kneading-trough.<a name="anc_iv_50" id="anc_iv_50"></a><a href="#footnote-iv_50"><span class="fnanchor">[IV_50]</span></a> All alliances with gladiators and comedians were -interdicted them; and the law decreed that the delinquent guilty of such -dishonour should be first scourged, then banished, and that his property -should be confiscated for the benefit of the community.<a name="anc_iv_51" id="anc_iv_51"></a><a href="#footnote-iv_51"><span class="fnanchor">[IV_51]</span></a> Finally, -the prodigal baker was assimilated with the dishonest bankrupt, and -expelled the college.<a name="anc_iv_52" id="anc_iv_52"></a><a href="#footnote-iv_52"><span class="fnanchor">[IV_52]</span></a></p> - -<p>The above details on some of the dispositions of the law regarding this -interesting corporation, sufficiently prove the importance that the -Roman government attached to it, and wished it should always maintain.</p> - -<p>The bakers of Rome received from the public granaries whatever they -required, at a price fixed by the magistrate. If the officer charged -with the distribution of it gave a bad quality, or exacted a bribe to -supply good corn, that officer was disgraced, and he became forever a -journeyman baker.<a name="anc_iv_53" id="anc_iv_53"></a><a href="#footnote-iv_53"><span class="fnanchor">[IV_53]</span></a></p> - -<p>Independently of public bakeries, the number of which reached 329 under -the reign of Augustus, there were also, in the houses of the wealthy, -slaves whose sole occupation was the making of bread, and these slaves -brought an exorbitant price when they excelled in their art.<a name="anc_iv_54" id="anc_iv_54"></a><a href="#footnote-iv_54"><span class="fnanchor">[IV_54]</span></a> They -used portable ovens, made of iron or earthenware, under which they -placed red-hot coals. Sometimes they employed a round brass vessel with -a cover, which was put under the flames. In the houses where the -greatest luxury reigned, they had a kind of silver mould, from which the -bread was taken, and served to the guests.<a name="anc_iv_55" id="anc_iv_55"></a><a href="#footnote-iv_55"><span class="fnanchor">[IV_55]</span></a></p> - -<p>It is absolutely necessary to dive into the private life of the Roman -people, and not to neglect any of their domestic customs (accounts of -which are scattered here and there, in the writings of the more serious<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_036" id="page_036"></a>{36}</span> -historians, and among the dangerous frivolities of certain poets), if we -wish to have a correct idea of the excessive refinement which the -opulent classes evinced, even in the most ordinary things.</p> - -<p>Modern nations are satisfied with the bread more or less white, and even -bear, without much complaint, certain illicit mixtures, in which various -heterogeneous substances are sometimes strangely amalgamated; but this -was not the case in Rome. The prefect of provisions (<i>præfectus annonæ</i>) -was scrupulously careful to see that the supply of bread was abundant; -that it was of exact weight; that the manipulation of it was excellent; -and that it was made of the best flour the public granaries contained.</p> - -<p>As we have already observed, that was one of the most serious cares of -the government on behalf of a people who only required two things—bread -and the circus,<a name="anc_iv_56" id="anc_iv_56"></a><a href="#footnote-iv_56"><span class="fnanchor">[IV_56]</span></a> and whose ferocity, when pressed by hunger, knew -no bounds.<a name="anc_iv_57" id="anc_iv_57"></a><a href="#footnote-iv_57"><span class="fnanchor">[IV_57]</span></a></p> - -<p>They studied carefully every modification that the art of baking might -seem to require: they examined the leaven in use, and experimented with -new kinds. The following are the compositions Pliny has transmitted to -us:—</p> - -<p>The Romans thought much of millet for their leaven; they mixed it with -sweet wine, in which they let it ferment a year.</p> - -<p>They employed, also, wheat bran, soaked for three days in sweet white -wine, and dried in the sun. Of this they diluted a certain quantity at -the time of making bread, which was left to ferment in the best wheat -flour, and afterwards mixed with the entire mass.</p> - -<p>The leavens just mentioned were made during the vintage; the rest of the -year they were replaced by the following:—A dish containing two pounds -of barley paste was placed on red-hot coals, and heated until ebulition -commenced. It was put into vessels till it became sour.</p> - -<p>Very often leaven was procured from dough just made. A piece was taken -from the mass previous to salt being added; it was then left to turn -sour, and might be used the next day.</p> - -<p>The celebrated naturalist who supplies these details, tells us that, in -his time, the Gauls and Spaniards, after having made a drink from wheat, -saved the scum to raise the dough, and that their bread was the lightest -of all.<a name="anc_iv_58" id="anc_iv_58"></a><a href="#footnote-iv_58"><span class="fnanchor">[IV_58]</span></a></p> - -<p>It would be difficult to form an idea of the prodigious luxury which -Rome introduced into an aliment so common, and of such universal<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_037" id="page_037"></a>{37}</span> use as -bread. Its name, its form, and flavour indicated the various ranks of -society to which it belonged.<a name="anc_iv_59" id="anc_iv_59"></a><a href="#footnote-iv_59"><span class="fnanchor">[IV_59]</span></a> There was the senator’s bread, that -of the knights, of the citizens, of the people, and that of the -peasants.<a name="anc_iv_60" id="anc_iv_60"></a><a href="#footnote-iv_60"><span class="fnanchor">[IV_60]</span></a></p> - -<p>Let us go together under the vast galleries supported by those -magnificent arcades.<a name="anc_iv_61" id="anc_iv_61"></a><a href="#footnote-iv_61"><span class="fnanchor">[IV_61]</span></a> The <i>ediles</i> have preceded us; they are -visiting the shops;<a name="anc_iv_62" id="anc_iv_62"></a><a href="#footnote-iv_62"><span class="fnanchor">[IV_62]</span></a> it is the <i>Forum Pistrinum</i>, or bread-market. -The year is good: a <i>septier</i> (five bushels) of wheat is only -twenty-five shillings,<a name="anc_iv_63" id="anc_iv_63"></a><a href="#footnote-iv_63"><span class="fnanchor">[IV_63]</span></a> and provisions of all kinds abound in -Rome. Foreigners, also, are here, attracted by curiosity; for Vespasian -is preparing to deposit with solemnity the spoils of Jerusalem in the -temple of Peace.<a name="anc_iv_64" id="anc_iv_64"></a><a href="#footnote-iv_64"><span class="fnanchor">[IV_64]</span></a></p> - -<p>In the middle of the inclosure you see the statue of Vesta, the goddess -worshipped by bakers.<a name="anc_iv_65" id="anc_iv_65"></a><a href="#footnote-iv_65"><span class="fnanchor">[IV_65]</span></a> In the front, and round the gallery, those -open stalls are loaded with a number of round loaves of the same form -and weight: they are all five inches in thickness; the top is divided by -eight notches—that is to say, they are first divided across, and the -four parts are again subdivided.<a name="anc_iv_66" id="anc_iv_66"></a><a href="#footnote-iv_66"><span class="fnanchor">[IV_66]</span></a> These lines are made in the -dough, so that they may be more easily broken.</p> - -<p>The Roman gentry and shopkeepers give the preference to this sort of -household bread, simply composed of flour, water, and salt.<a name="anc_iv_67" id="anc_iv_67"></a><a href="#footnote-iv_67"><span class="fnanchor">[IV_67]</span></a></p> - -<p>You perceive, here and there, several baskets, full of heavy biscuits; -they are called <i>autopyron</i>; it is a coarse, black food, composed of -bran mixed with a little flour, and made expressly for the dogs and -slaves.<a name="anc_iv_68" id="anc_iv_68"></a><a href="#footnote-iv_68"><span class="fnanchor">[IV_68]</span></a></p> - -<p>Do you see that colossal-looking man, with enormous limbs, who is -walking about with an air of stupidity, and whose small head is covered -with scars? The dealers know his profession, and one of them offers him -the <i>athletæ’s</i> bread; it is kneaded, without leaven, with soft, white -curd cheese, and is a coarse, heavy food, which that class of people -seem to partake of with great delight.<a name="anc_iv_69" id="anc_iv_69"></a><a href="#footnote-iv_69"><span class="fnanchor">[IV_69]</span></a> That stout baker before us -occupies two of the most spacious shops in the market, on the left of -the statue; he is one of the richest members of the corporation, and is -the principal purveyor for the camp and army. Those large sacks, placed -before him with so much symmetry, contain the <i>buccellatum</i> biscuit, or -dried bread for the troops.<a name="anc_iv_70" id="anc_iv_70"></a><a href="#footnote-iv_70"><span class="fnanchor">[IV_70]</span></a></p> - -<p>His neighbour (called the Greek), was born at Athens; he is the -fashionable purveyor to the princes, senators, and sybarites of Rome. No -one understands so well as himself the art of mixing salt, oil, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_038" id="page_038"></a>{38}</span> -milk with the best wheaten flour; an exquisite combination, which -produces the celebrated bread of Cappadocia, served only on the tables -of the wealthy.<a name="anc_iv_71" id="anc_iv_71"></a><a href="#footnote-iv_71"><span class="fnanchor">[IV_71]</span></a> With the <i>artoplites</i>, a light bread, made with -the best wheaten flour, and baked in a mould, it is the only kind of -which refined persons can partake.<a name="anc_iv_72" id="anc_iv_72"></a><a href="#footnote-iv_72"><span class="fnanchor">[IV_72]</span></a> If we were not afraid of -tiring you, we could point out many other sorts of bread which abound in -the <i>Forum Pistrinum</i>, for there is some for all tastes and classes, -from the <i>artopticii</i>, baked in moulds,<a name="anc_iv_73" id="anc_iv_73"></a><a href="#footnote-iv_73"><span class="fnanchor">[IV_73]</span></a> a most nutritious and -digestive bread, down to the <i>furfuraceus</i>, a mass of indigestible bran -that the wildest savages among the Scythians could not have swallowed -with impunity.</p> - -<p>We should have spoken to you of the <i>astrologicus</i> bread, the paste of -which is similar to that we use in our days to make fritters, commonly -called batter.</p> - -<p>Also of the <i>cacabaceus</i>, which is indebted for its agreeable and spicy -flavour to the water, which is previously boiled in a kind of bronzed -stewpan; and the <i>siligineus</i> bread, made of the best flour. Its -manipulation is difficult and tedious; no matter—the epicurean prefers -it, when, by chance, he happens to be hungry.<a name="anc_iv_74" id="anc_iv_74"></a><a href="#footnote-iv_74"><span class="fnanchor">[IV_74]</span></a></p> - -<p>Neither ought we to forget the <i>panis madidus</i>, a species of paste made -of milk and flour, with which the fashionable ladies and effeminate -dandies covered their faces before going to bed, to preserve the -freshness and beauty of their complexion.<a name="anc_iv_75" id="anc_iv_75"></a><a href="#footnote-iv_75"><span class="fnanchor">[IV_75]</span></a></p> - -<p>But this enumeration may appear to you idle and endless; let us, -therefore, leave the market and assist at the distribution of bread -<i>civilis</i> among the people, of which thirteen ounces is given to each -person;<a name="anc_iv_76" id="anc_iv_76"></a><a href="#footnote-iv_76"><span class="fnanchor">[IV_76]</span></a> we will then give a rapid glance at the various other -<i>cereals</i> besides wheat, which, in some shape or other, are converted -into food.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="c">DESCRIPTION OF <a href="#pl_VII">PLATE No. VII.</a></p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Bread.</span>—No. 1. In Herculaneum there were found two entire loaves of -the same dimension, being 13½ inches in diameter, and 3½ -inches thick. Each had eight divisions cut on the top, that is to -say,—a cross was first marked, and between each, another division -was made; some had stamps on the top.</p> - -<p>No. 2. At Pompeii, in a shop near the Pantheon, were discovered -bronze moulds for pastry and bread.</p> - -<p>No. 3. The Cappadocia bread, made in a mould, found at Pompeii.</p> - -<p>No. 4. The mould for the above.</p></div> - -<p>The customs of the middle ages cannot be better illustrated than by -adding the following curious notes:</p> - -<p>The Norman kings subjected the bakers to very severe laws with<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_039" id="page_039"></a>{39}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="pl_VII" id="pl_VII"></a> -<a href="images/ill_pg_038_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_038_sml.jpg" width="267" height="416" alt="Image not available: Pl. 7." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">Pl. 7.</span> -</div> - -<p class="nind">respect to the weight and price of bread. The first offence was punished -by the confiscation of their bread; the second by a fine; and the third -by the pillory.<a name="anc_iv_77" id="anc_iv_77"></a><a href="#footnote-iv_77"><span class="fnanchor">[IV_77]</span></a></p> - -<p>Saint Louis made statutes for the bakers of Paris. He forbade them to -bake on Sunday or any festival day, under pain of a fine of eighteen -sous (about eight pence), and a certain quantity of bread. But he gave -them permission to open their shops and <i>sell</i> every day of the year -without exception.<a name="anc_iv_78" id="anc_iv_78"></a><a href="#footnote-iv_78"><span class="fnanchor">[IV_78]</span></a></p> - -<p>In the 17th century, a new regulation was made concerning bakers; they -were to bake “daily, and have always on sale three kinds of bread, viz., -that known as <i>pain de chalis</i>, of twelve ounces; <i>pain de chapitre</i>, of -ten ounces; and brownish household bread, of sixteen ounces. The price -of each to be <i>douze deniers</i> (a halfpenny), marked by the baker with -his own particular mark.” They were also permitted to make “rolls and -other sorts,” but not to expose them for sale “under pain of being fined -four hundred Paris livres (a little more than twelve pounds -sterling).”<a name="anc_iv_79" id="anc_iv_79"></a><a href="#footnote-iv_79"><span class="fnanchor">[IV_79]</span></a></p> - -<p>Master-bakers were admitted at Paris, in the 14th century, in the -following manner:—</p> - -<p>When a young man had been successively winnower, sifter, kneader, and -foreman, he could, by paying a certain amount to the king as legiance -money, become an aspirant-baker, and commence business on his own -account. Four years after, he was received as master by going through -certain formalities. On a given day, he set out from his house, followed -by all the bakers of the town, and repaired to the residence of the -master of the bakers, to whom he presented a new pot filled with nuts, -saying: “Master, I have accomplished my four years; here is my pot of -nuts.” Then the master of the bakers asked the secretary of the trade -whether that were true, and having received a reply in the affirmative, -the master of the bakers returned the pot to the aspirant, who broke it -against the wall, and was at once reckoned amongst the masters.</p> - -<p>Let us reckon up the different kinds of bread that were in use at that -epoch:</p> - -<p>The bread made simply with flour, water, salt, and yeast—the common -bread; the best was made at Chailly or Gonesse.</p> - -<p>The bread cooked in hot water—<i>pain échaudé</i> (in England, we should -call it baked dumpling).<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_040" id="page_040"></a>{40}</span></p> - -<p>The bread made of the finest flour, beaten a long time with two -sticks—pounded bread.</p> - -<p>The bread made of the very finest and purest flour (biscuit flour) -slightly baked—roll bread.</p> - -<p>The bread made of fine flour, kneaded with butter, and sprinkled with -whole wheat—sheep bread.</p> - -<p>The bread made of fine flour, eggs and milk—Christmas bread.</p> - -<p>And lastly, rye bread, kneaded with spice, honey, or -sugar—gingerbread.<a name="anc_iv_80" id="anc_iv_80"></a><a href="#footnote-iv_80"><span class="fnanchor">[IV_80]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_041" id="page_041"></a>{41}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="V" id="V"></a>V.<br /><br /> -FRUMENTA.</h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">Do</span> not be alarmed, fair readers, at the Latin noun which heads this -chapter: tolerate it in consideration of our promise seldom to solicit a -like favour. It meant, among the Latins, all the plants which produce -ears of corn,<a name="anc_v_1" id="anc_v_1"></a><a href="#footnote-v_1"><span class="fnanchor">[V_1]</span></a> the seeds of which can be converted into flour.<a name="anc_v_2" id="anc_v_2"></a><a href="#footnote-v_2"><span class="fnanchor">[V_2]</span></a> -Clearly there never was a more innocent expression.</p> - -<p><i>Barley</i> seems to claim the first place among cereals of the second -order; the Greeks looked upon it as the happy symbol of fertility,<a name="anc_v_3" id="anc_v_3"></a><a href="#footnote-v_3"><span class="fnanchor">[V_3]</span></a> -and the ancient inhabitants of Italy gave it a name (<i>hordeum</i>) which, -perhaps, recalled to their mind the use mankind made of it before wheat -was known (<i>exordium</i>).<a name="anc_v_4" id="anc_v_4"></a><a href="#footnote-v_4"><span class="fnanchor">[V_4]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Jews had a great esteem for barley, and sacred history generally -assimilates it to wheat, when the fruits of the earth are mentioned. -Thus a beloved spot produces both these plants:<a name="anc_v_5" id="anc_v_5"></a><a href="#footnote-v_5"><span class="fnanchor">[V_5]</span></a> Shobi offered to -David wheat and barley;<a name="anc_v_6" id="anc_v_6"></a><a href="#footnote-v_6"><span class="fnanchor">[V_6]</span></a> and Solomon promises twenty thousand sacks -of wheat and as much barley to the workmen charged with cutting down the -cedars of Lebanon.<a name="anc_v_7" id="anc_v_7"></a><a href="#footnote-v_7"><span class="fnanchor">[V_7]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Greeks and Romans did not carry their love for this grain so far as -the Hebrews. In Rome it was the food of the flocks and cowards.<a name="anc_v_8" id="anc_v_8"></a><a href="#footnote-v_8"><span class="fnanchor">[V_8]</span></a> In -Lacedæmon and at Athens the gladiators and common people had no other -aliment;<a name="anc_v_9" id="anc_v_9"></a><a href="#footnote-v_9"><span class="fnanchor">[V_9]</span></a> they made it into barley-gruel (<i>alphiton</i>), the -composition of which was very simple, and would not probably tempt a -modern Lucullus. Here is the recipe of this ancient and national dish:—</p> - -<p>Dry, near the fire or in the oven, twenty pounds of barley flour, then -parch it. Add three pounds of linseed meal, half a pound of coriander<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_042" id="page_042"></a>{42}</span> -seed, two ounces of salt, and the quantity of water necessary.<a name="anc_v_10" id="anc_v_10"></a><a href="#footnote-v_10"><span class="fnanchor">[V_10]</span></a> To -this mixture of ingredients the Italian epicureans added a little -millet, so as to give the paste more cohesion and delicacy.<a name="anc_v_11" id="anc_v_11"></a><a href="#footnote-v_11"><span class="fnanchor">[V_11]</span></a></p> - -<p>This culinary preparation must appear rather unworthy of those nations -who so completely eclipsed all the gastronomic glories of the universe; -wherefore let us hasten to reinstate them as men of taste and exquisite -intelligence, by citing a more learned combination, which obtained the -judicious patronage of the Archestrates and Apicii:—</p> - -<p>Take pearl barley, pound it in a mortar, make use of the flour only, and -put it in a saucepan; pour on it by degrees some of the best oil; with -that certainty which science alone gives to the hand, and stir it -carefully, whilst a slow, equal fire performs the great work of cookery. -Be, above all, attentive to enrich it, at proper intervals, with a -delicate gravy extracted from a young fat chicken or from a succulent -lamb. Unceasingly watch, lest the ebullition, by going on too rapidly, -force this delightful mixture to overflow the side of the vessel; and -when your practised palate informs you that it is worthy of your guests, -present it to their impatient sensuality.<a name="anc_v_12" id="anc_v_12"></a><a href="#footnote-v_12"><span class="fnanchor">[V_12]</span></a></p> - -<p>So it appears the ancients were acquainted with pearl barley, and barley -water; the latter took the name of diet drink (<i>ptisana</i>), which we only -associate with melancholy reminiscences.<a name="anc_v_13" id="anc_v_13"></a><a href="#footnote-v_13"><span class="fnanchor">[V_13]</span></a> Hippocrates was not only -in raptures with the virtues and properties of this aliment,<a name="anc_v_14" id="anc_v_14"></a><a href="#footnote-v_14"><span class="fnanchor">[V_14]</span></a> but -he also conferred the highest praise on that sweet and insipid drink, -which our doctors order their patients, as did the oracle of Cos, and -which at that time was called “barley broth.”<a name="anc_v_15" id="anc_v_15"></a><a href="#footnote-v_15"><span class="fnanchor">[V_15]</span></a></p> - -<p><i>Oats</i> occupied an honourable place after barley. Pliny fancied these -two plants so analogous, that the owner of a field who had sown barley -might find oats at the time of harvest, whilst precisely the reverse -might happen to his neighbour.<a name="anc_v_16" id="anc_v_16"></a><a href="#footnote-v_16"><span class="fnanchor">[V_16]</span></a> Nature, in our days, is not subject -to such frolics; and our farmers are tolerably certain that, by care, -labour, and God’s assistance, they will gather from the soil what they -have sown.</p> - -<p>“In order to develop a strong flavour of vanille in black oats, wash -this seed, boil it a moment in water, and employ the decoction as you -would potato flour, and it will form excellent creams.</p> - -<p>“In Normandy and Lower Britany they make with flour of oats a delicious -soup. The following is the manner they obtain it. They take white oats -and put them in the oven; when sufficiently dried, they are fanned, -cleaned, and carried to a mill, the grinders of which are freshly<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_043" id="page_043"></a>{43}</span> -sharpened. The miller takes care to hold them a little way off, in order -that they may not crush the grain, and that this last may preserve the -shape of rice; by this means they remove the whole of the -pellicle.”—<span class="smcap">Parmentier.</span></p> - -<p>The Greeks and Romans knew how to appreciate oatmeal:<a name="anc_v_17" id="anc_v_17"></a><a href="#footnote-v_17"><span class="fnanchor">[V_17]</span></a> they used it -to make a kind of gruel, such as we have already described, and also a -substantial thick milk, which they prepared as we do.<a name="anc_v_18" id="anc_v_18"></a><a href="#footnote-v_18"><span class="fnanchor">[V_18]</span></a></p> - -<p><i>Rice</i> was also held in great esteem by them: they considered it as a -food very beneficial to the chest; therefore it was recommended in cases -of consumption, and to persons subject to spitting of blood.<a name="anc_v_19" id="anc_v_19"></a><a href="#footnote-v_19"><span class="fnanchor">[V_19]</span></a></p> - -<p><i>Millet</i>, so called from the multiplicity of its seeds,<a name="anc_v_20" id="anc_v_20"></a><a href="#footnote-v_20"><span class="fnanchor">[V_20]</span></a> abounded -more particularly in Gaul, in the time of Strabo.<a name="anc_v_21" id="anc_v_21"></a><a href="#footnote-v_21"><span class="fnanchor">[V_21]</span></a> Pliny pretends -that no grain swells so much in cooking, and he assures us that sixty -pounds of bread was obtained from a single bushel of millet, weighing -only twenty pounds.<a name="anc_v_22" id="anc_v_22"></a><a href="#footnote-v_22"><span class="fnanchor">[V_22]</span></a> This naturalist also speaks of another kind of -millet, coming originally from India, and which had only been in -cultivation ten years in Italy. The stalk resembled that of the reed, -and often attained the height of ten feet; its fecundity was such that a -single grain produced innumerable ears of corn;<a name="anc_v_23" id="anc_v_23"></a><a href="#footnote-v_23"><span class="fnanchor">[V_23]</span></a> therefore, if so -prolific, and capable of making good and economical food, why should it -not be, in 1858, cultivated largely wherever the climate may allow it?</p> - -<p>Some writers place <i>Panic Grass</i> among the wheats, because certain -nations made bread of it.<a name="anc_v_24" id="anc_v_24"></a><a href="#footnote-v_24"><span class="fnanchor">[V_24]</span></a> The higher classes of Rome and Athens -always resisted this bad taste. They preferred spelt, or red wheat, a -super-excellent grain,<a name="anc_v_25" id="anc_v_25"></a><a href="#footnote-v_25"><span class="fnanchor">[V_25]</span></a> which was much honoured by the Latins, if -we can credit the charming letter, written by Pliny the younger, to -Septilius Clarus, on the occasion of a dinner, where the latter failed -to join the guests. Among other delicate dishes with which he desired to -treat his friend, he had ordered a spelt cake to be made.<a name="anc_v_26" id="anc_v_26"></a><a href="#footnote-v_26"><span class="fnanchor">[V_26]</span></a> This -same flour was the base of the Carthaginian pudding; which the reader -may taste if he will, here is the recipe:—</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Carthaginian Pudding.</span>—Put a pound of red wheat flour into water; when -it has soaked some time, place it in a wooden bowl, add three pounds of -cream cheese, half a pound of honey, and one egg; beat this mixture well -together, and cook it on a slow fire in a stewpan.<a name="anc_v_27" id="anc_v_27"></a><a href="#footnote-v_27"><span class="fnanchor">[V_27]</span></a> Should this -dish not be sufficiently delicate, try the following:—</p> - -<p>When you have sifted some spelt flour, put it in a wooden vessel, with -some water, which you must renew twice a day for ten days. At<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_044" id="page_044"></a>{44}</span> the end -of that time squeeze out all the water, and place the paste in another -vessel; reduce it to the consistence of thick lees, pass it through a -piece of new linen, and repeat this last operation; dry it in the sun, -and then boil it in milk.<a name="anc_v_28" id="anc_v_28"></a><a href="#footnote-v_28"><span class="fnanchor">[V_28]</span></a></p> - -<p>As regards the exact seasoning of this exquisite Roman dish, it is your -own genius which must inspire you with the proportions.</p> - -<p>Let us not omit to notice the <i>Erupmon</i> of the Greeks, the <i>Irion</i> of -the Latins, the <i>Indian Wheat</i> of the moderns. This plant produces a -wholesome and easily digestible food; it was well known in Italy in the -time of Pliny,<a name="anc_v_29" id="anc_v_29"></a><a href="#footnote-v_29"><span class="fnanchor">[V_29]</span></a> at which period the peasants used to make a crisp -sort of heavy bread, probably somewhat similar to that which is still -used in the south of France.</p> - -<p>Since the famine of 1847 great attention has been paid to this flour; -much was imported into England from America, where it is used in -domestic economy; when green, its milky pulp is an excellent food: the -various advantages of this flour, however, are not sufficiently -developed to give all the benefit of its goodness to the world; habit -and prejudice assist materially to prevent its being generally employed.</p> - -<p>The Romans also ate it as hasty-pudding, parched or roasted, with a -little salt. A writer equally remarkable for his elegant and easy style, -as well as for the justness of his observations, informs us that, in our -days, the Indian inhabitants of the unfruitful plains of Marwar never -dress Indian corn in any other way.<a name="anc_v_30" id="anc_v_30"></a><a href="#footnote-v_30"><span class="fnanchor">[V_30]</span></a></p> - -<p>Such are the principal <i>graminea</i> which the ancients thought worthy of -their attention, or allowed to appear on their tables, with more or less -honour according to the degree of esteem in which they were held. It is -probable that the cooks in the great gastronomic period of Rome and -Athens, who knew so well the capricious nature of their masters’ -palates,<a name="anc_v_31" id="anc_v_31"></a><a href="#footnote-v_31"><span class="fnanchor">[V_31]</span></a> had to borrow from magiric chemistry, then so -flourishing, some wonderful means of giving to various kinds of cereals -a culinary value they now no longer possess—what might we not expect -from a Thimbron,<a name="anc_v_32" id="anc_v_32"></a><a href="#footnote-v_32"><span class="fnanchor">[V_32]</span></a> a Mithoecus,<a name="anc_v_33" id="anc_v_33"></a><a href="#footnote-v_33"><span class="fnanchor">[V_33]</span></a> a Soterides?<a name="anc_v_34" id="anc_v_34"></a><a href="#footnote-v_34"><span class="fnanchor">[V_34]</span></a> This latter -performed a feat which does him too much honour to be unnoticed here.</p> - -<p>The King of Bithynia, Nicomedes, was taken with a strange, invincible, -and imperious longing which admitted of no delay; he ordered his cook, -Soterides, to be sent for, and commanded him to prepare instantly a dish -of loaches. “Loaches, Sire!” cried the skilful, yet terrified cook; “by -all the gods, protectors of the kingdom, where can I procure these fish<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_045" id="page_045"></a>{45}</span> -at this late hour of the night?” Kings ill brook resistance to their -will.<a name="anc_v_35" id="anc_v_35"></a><a href="#footnote-v_35"><span class="fnanchor">[V_35]</span></a> Nicomedes was not celebrated for patience when pressed by -hunger. “Give me loaches, I say,” replied he, with a hollow and terrible -voice; “or else——” and his clear, fearful, pantomimic expression made -the unfortunate cook understand too well that he must either obey or -immediately deliver up his head to the provost of the palace. The -alternative was embarrassing; nevertheless, Soterides thought how to get -out of the scrape. He shut himself up in his laboratory, peeled some -long radishes, and with extraordinary address gave them the form of the -fatal fish, seasoning them with oil, salt, black pepper, and doubtless -several other ingredients, the secret of which the illustrious <i>chef</i> -has not handed down to posterity. Then, holding in his hand a dish of -irreproachable-looking fried fish, he boldly presented himself before -the prince, who was walking up and down with hasty strides awaiting his -arrival. The King of the Bithynians ate up the whole, and the next day -he condescended to inform his court that he never had loaches served he -so much liked.<a name="anc_v_36" id="anc_v_36"></a><a href="#footnote-v_36"><span class="fnanchor">[V_36]</span></a> This digression, which the reader will kindly -pardon, sufficiently shows to what height the art of ancient cookery was -carried, and of which this work will furnish new and abundant proofs.</p> - -<p>The cereals having had so much of our attention, we have now to consider -those grains or seeds which serve as the bases or necessary adjuncts to -different dishes.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_046" id="page_046"></a>{46}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="VI" id="VI"></a>VI.<br /><br /> -GRAINS: SEEDS.</h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">One</span> of the most important was <i>Mustard</i> seed. Pythagoras maintains (and -no one has contradicted his assertion) that this seed occupied the first -rank amongst alimentary substances which exercise a prompt influence on -the brain.<a name="anc_vi_1" id="anc_vi_1"></a><a href="#footnote-vi_1"><span class="fnanchor">[VI_1]</span></a> Indeed the ancients attributed to it the same qualities -that we do at the present day.</p> - -<p>Mustard, according to their opinion, excites the appetite, gives -piquancy to meat, strengthens the stomach, and facilitates digestion. It -is better suited, say they, to bilious constitutions than to lymphatic -persons; and they recommended its use in summer, rather than in -winter.<a name="anc_vi_2" id="anc_vi_2"></a><a href="#footnote-vi_2"><span class="fnanchor">[VI_2]</span></a></p> - -<p>The good Pliny, always disposed to adopt, without much examination, any -stories, provided they were but slightly exaggerated, was convinced, and -affirms, with his accustomed good humour, that this plant is a sovereign -remedy against the bite of the most venomous serpents: it is only -necessary to apply it to the wound. And, again, if taken inwardly, there -is nothing to fear from the poisonous effects of certain -mushrooms.<a name="anc_vi_3" id="anc_vi_3"></a><a href="#footnote-vi_3"><span class="fnanchor">[VI_3]</span></a> The doctors of the 19th century are, apparently, little -inclined to adopt the method recommended by the worthy naturalist.</p> - -<p>Mustard seed is only mentioned in the Bible as a term of comparison; its -alimentary qualities are nowhere indicated.<a name="anc_vi_4" id="anc_vi_4"></a><a href="#footnote-vi_4"><span class="fnanchor">[VI_4]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Romans, and other nations after them, fermented this seed in new -sweet wine. It is from this, perhaps, we must seek for the origin of the -word mustard, “<i>mustum ardens</i>” (burning wine)<a name="anc_vi_5" id="anc_vi_5"></a><a href="#footnote-vi_5"><span class="fnanchor">[VI_5]</span></a>; some gastronomic -writers give it another derivation, not generally adopted. This<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_047" id="page_047"></a>{47}</span> -condiment, say they, was formerly called <i>sauve</i> or <i>senevé</i>. It was -only towards the close of the 14th century that this name was changed. -Philip the Bold, Duke of Burgundy, marching against the inhabitants of -Ghent, who had revolted from him, and the city of Dijon having supplied -him for this expedition with a thousand men-at-arms, the prince, in -gratitude, granted to that city, amongst other privileges, that of -bearing his arms, with his motto, “<i>Moult me tarde</i>.” The whole of this -was carved on the principal gate of Dijon, but an accident having -destroyed the middle word, the two others <i>moult tarde</i> caused many a -smile at the expense of the Dijonnais; and as they traded in <i>senevé</i> -(mustard), this grain was called in derision <i>moutarde</i>, when it came -from Dijon, a name it has preserved ever since.<a name="anc_vi_6" id="anc_vi_6"></a><a href="#footnote-vi_6"><span class="fnanchor">[VI_6]</span></a> If this etymology -is not true, at least it is ingenious.</p> - -<p><i>Coriander</i>, amongst the Romans, appears to have possessed the same -property as mustard, that is to say, they considered it was -strengthening and digestive.<a name="anc_vi_7" id="anc_vi_7"></a><a href="#footnote-vi_7"><span class="fnanchor">[VI_7]</span></a> They employed it also in a very -useful manner during the great heat of summer: they mixed it with -vinegar, after it had been well bruised or pounded, and laid it over any -kind of meat, which this coating preserved in a perfect state of -freshness.<a name="anc_vi_8" id="anc_vi_8"></a><a href="#footnote-vi_8"><span class="fnanchor">[VI_8]</span></a></p> - -<p>Pliny classifies the bitter seed of the <i>Lupin</i> as a grain pertaining to -that of wheat;<a name="anc_vi_9" id="anc_vi_9"></a><a href="#footnote-vi_9"><span class="fnanchor">[VI_9]</span></a> and if you soak it, he says, in boiling water, it -becomes so mild that it can be eaten.<a name="anc_vi_10" id="anc_vi_10"></a><a href="#footnote-vi_10"><span class="fnanchor">[VI_10]</span></a> Zeno, of Citium, was of the -same opinion. This philosopher, with all his wisdom, could not help -showing his bad temper, even towards his best friends at times, but was -very affable after he had quaffed several cups of delicious wine. One -day he was asked for an explanation of this contrast in his temper. -“That is very simple,” he replied; “I am of the same nature as the -lupins: their bitterness is insupportable before they are soaked, but -they are of an exquisite mildness when they have been well -steeped.”<a name="anc_vi_11" id="anc_vi_11"></a><a href="#footnote-vi_11"><span class="fnanchor">[VI_11]</span></a></p> - -<p>We strongly doubt, nevertheless, whether this plant has ever been -honoured by the patronage of connoisseurs and people of delicate taste; -a very high authority in cookery—Lycophon, of Chalcis—used to say, -with a kind of disdain, that this despicable plant was hardly good -enough for the common fare of the mob, or to feast the guests at a -beggar’s table.<a name="anc_vi_12" id="anc_vi_12"></a><a href="#footnote-vi_12"><span class="fnanchor">[VI_12]</span></a></p> - -<p>It was principally used as food for cattle, and not without reason, if -it be true that twenty pounds of lupins are sufficient to fatten an -ox.<a name="anc_vi_13" id="anc_vi_13"></a><a href="#footnote-vi_13"><span class="fnanchor">[VI_13]</span></a></p> - -<p>The lovers of etymology, who may be classified in the family of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_048" id="page_048"></a>{48}</span> readers -of logogriphs, were in raptures at finding the following: “The Latin -name of <i>Lupinus</i> has been given to this grain because the lupin wears -out and destroys the land nearly as the wolf destroys and devours the -flocks; whereupon they exclaimed, with pride, ‘<i>Lupinus à -lupo!</i>’ ”<a name="anc_vi_14" id="anc_vi_14"></a><a href="#footnote-vi_14"><span class="fnanchor">[VI_14]</span></a></p> - -<p>At the period when the gods did not exact much, but were contented with -humble offerings, men placed on the altars loaves made of <i>Linseed</i> -meal; a treat the immortals gratefully accepted, though certainly it -would not much tempt us<a name="anc_vi_15" id="anc_vi_15"></a><a href="#footnote-vi_15"><span class="fnanchor">[VI_15]</span></a> of the present day.</p> - -<p>The Asiatics afterwards thought of pounding the linseed, frying it, and -mixing it with honey; these cakes seemed to them too good for their -divinities, so they ate them themselves.<a name="anc_vi_16" id="anc_vi_16"></a><a href="#footnote-vi_16"><span class="fnanchor">[VI_16]</span></a></p> - -<p>In the time of Pliny, the Lombards and Piedmontese ate this miserable -bread of the gods, and even found in it a most agreeable flavour:<a name="anc_vi_17" id="anc_vi_17"></a><a href="#footnote-vi_17"><span class="fnanchor">[VI_17]</span></a> -these nations have since improved their taste.</p> - -<p>Shall we mention <i>Hempseed</i>, the <i>Cannabis</i> of the ancients, which was -served fried for dessert?<a name="anc_vi_18" id="anc_vi_18"></a><a href="#footnote-vi_18"><span class="fnanchor">[VI_18]</span></a> That hemp should be spun and made into -ropes, well and good; but to regale one’s-self with it after -dinner,—when the stomach is overloaded with food, and hardly moved from -its lethargic quietude by the appearance of the most provoking viands -that art can invent—what depravity! What strange perversion of the most -simple elements of gastronomy!</p> - -<p>The Arabs, that wandering nation, who are not yet acquainted with the -roasting-spit, nor the voluptuousness of a delicious repast, formerly -intoxicated themselves with a beverage extracted from linseed;<a name="anc_vi_19" id="anc_vi_19"></a><a href="#footnote-vi_19"><span class="fnanchor">[VI_19]</span></a> -we, who are in possession of generous wine, let us deplore such -excesses, and not imitate them.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_049" id="page_049"></a>{49}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="VII" id="VII"></a>VII.<br /><br /> -VEGETABLES.</h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">All</span> nations have sown vegetables, and judged them worthy of their -particular attention; sometimes they have even confounded many of these -plants with the cereals, because they were converted into flour and -bread,<a name="anc_vii_1" id="anc_vii_1"></a><a href="#footnote-vii_1"><span class="fnanchor">[VII_1]</span></a> especially in time of famine.<a name="anc_vii_2" id="anc_vii_2"></a><a href="#footnote-vii_2"><span class="fnanchor">[VII_2]</span></a></p> - -<p>After the Deluge, when God made a covenant with Noah he said, with -respect to the food of man:—“Even as the green herb have I given you -all things;<a name="anc_vii_3" id="anc_vii_3"></a><a href="#footnote-vii_3"><span class="fnanchor">[VII_3]</span></a>” and, subsequently to that epoch, the holy writers -frequently demonstrate, in their simple and interesting style, the -various uses which the Hebrews made of vegetables. Esau, pressed by -hunger, sold his birth-right to Jacob for a dish of lentils.<a name="anc_vii_4" id="anc_vii_4"></a><a href="#footnote-vii_4"><span class="fnanchor">[VII_4]</span></a></p> - -<p>Among the presents which David received from Shobi, were beans, lentils, -and parched pulse.<a name="anc_vii_5" id="anc_vii_5"></a><a href="#footnote-vii_5"><span class="fnanchor">[VII_5]</span></a></p> - -<p>The four Hebrew children were fed with vegetables, at the court of -Nebuchadnezzar, King of Babylon.<a name="anc_vii_6" id="anc_vii_6"></a><a href="#footnote-vii_6"><span class="fnanchor">[VII_6]</span></a> It is sufficient, we think, to -indicate these passages, without uselessly increasing the number.</p> - -<p>The heroes of Homer, those men covered with iron and brass, whose -terrible blows dealt death and desolation, reposed after their exploits, -partaking of a dish of beans or a plate of peas.<a name="anc_vii_7" id="anc_vii_7"></a><a href="#footnote-vii_7"><span class="fnanchor">[VII_7]</span></a> Happy simplicity -of the Homeric ages! Patrocles peeled onions! Achilles washed cabbages! -and the wise Ulysses roasted, with his own hands, a sirloin of beef!</p> - -<p>One day the son of Thetis received under his tent a deputation sent by -the Greeks, to entreat him to be friends with Agamemnon. The young hero, -who could only be accused of a little pride and passion,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_050" id="page_050"></a>{50}</span> invited these -worthy personages to dinner, and, with the assistance of his friend, -gave them a magnificent banquet, in which vegetables occupied a most -conspicuous place.<a name="anc_vii_8" id="anc_vii_8"></a><a href="#footnote-vii_8"><span class="fnanchor">[VII_8]</span></a></p> - -<p>Sixteen Greek authors have devoted their vigils to profound researches -concerning the qualities of these useful plants; their works have not -been transmitted to us, but their names are to be found inscribed in the -gastronomic treasure which Athenæus—that grammarian, philosopher, and -epicurean—has bequeathed to the meditations of posterity.<a name="anc_vii_9" id="anc_vii_9"></a><a href="#footnote-vii_9"><span class="fnanchor">[VII_9]</span></a></p> - -<p>But it is principally with the Romans that this interesting branch of -the magiric art flourished. They have told us that this great family of -herbs took the name of vegetables (<i>legumina</i>), because they were chosen -and picked by the hand;<a name="anc_vii_10" id="anc_vii_10"></a><a href="#footnote-vii_10"><span class="fnanchor">[VII_10]</span></a> and their most celebrated -horticulturists have prided themselves on the preparation of the ground -to which they were confided, on the attention which they claimed, and on -the Hygeian virtues which experience attributed to them. Heathen -theology, too, consecrated several of them to the solemnities of their -religion, and some nations even considered them worthy of their homage -and the fumes of incense.<a name="anc_vii_11" id="anc_vii_11"></a><a href="#footnote-vii_11"><span class="fnanchor">[VII_11]</span></a></p> - -<p>Virgil himself seems to regret his inability to sing of gardens and -vegetables. Perhaps a rapid sketch of what the great poet says on this -subject, may not be misplaced here.</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">“Si mon vaisseau long-temps égaré loin du bord,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Ne se hâtait enfin de regagner le port,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Peut-être je peindrais les Ciens chéris de Flore;<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Le Narcisse en mes vers s’empresserait d’éclore,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Les roses m’ouvriraient leurs calices brillants,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Le tortueux concombre arrondirait ses flancs;<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Du persil toujours vert, des pâles chicorées<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Ma muse abreuverait les tiges altérées,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Je courberais le lierre et l’acanthe en berceau,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Et du myrthe amoureux j’ombragerais les eaux.”<a name="anc_vii_12" id="anc_vii_12"></a><a href="#footnote-vii_12"><span class="fnanchor">[VII_12]</span></a><br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>One more fact will serve to show to what extent the Romans carried their -enthusiastic affection for leguminous plants: we know that illustrious -families did not disdain to borrow their names from them. The -appellations, Fabius, Cicero, and Lentulus, thus enhanced the humble<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_051" id="page_051"></a>{51}</span> -renown of beans (<i>faba</i>), peas (<i>cicer arietinum</i>), and lentils -(<i>lenticula</i>).<a name="anc_vii_13" id="anc_vii_13"></a><a href="#footnote-vii_13"><span class="fnanchor">[VII_13]</span></a> The eminent orator we have just named gave the -preference one day to a dish of beet-root, instead of oysters and -lampreys, of which he was passionately fond.<a name="anc_vii_14" id="anc_vii_14"></a><a href="#footnote-vii_14"><span class="fnanchor">[VII_14]</span></a> It is true that, -since the promulgation of the Licinian law,<a name="anc_vii_15" id="anc_vii_15"></a><a href="#footnote-vii_15"><span class="fnanchor">[VII_15]</span></a> which allowed but -little meat and plenty of vegetables, the voluptuaries of Rome invented -most astonishing ragouts of mushrooms and pot-herbs. So true is it that -the genius of man develops itself more particularly under difficult -circumstances, and that the art of cookery owes, perhaps, the perfection -and glory which it has attained to the impediments with which its -formidable enemy, frugality, seems always ready to surround it.</p> - -<p>Apicius, that profound culinary chemist, who nobly expended immense -treasures in inventing new dishes, and who killed himself<a name="anc_vii_16" id="anc_vii_16"></a><a href="#footnote-vii_16"><span class="fnanchor">[VII_16]</span></a> -because the remainder of his fortune was not sufficient for him (though -to another it would have seemed magnificent)—Apicius shows us what he -believed to be the most suitable manner of preserving vegetables. -“Choose them,” he says, “before they are perfectly ripe, put them in a -vessel coated with pitch, and cover it hermetically.”<a name="anc_vii_17" id="anc_vii_17"></a><a href="#footnote-vii_17"><span class="fnanchor">[VII_17]</span></a></p> - -<p>The reader will decide for himself between this process and those which -science has since discovered.</p> - -<p>The capitulars (or statutes) of Charlemagne enter, on the subject of -vegetables, into some instructive details. They inform us that lettuces, -cresses, endive, parsley, chervil, carrots, leeks, turnips, onions, -garlic, scallions, and eschalots, were nowhere to be found, except in -the emperor’s kitchen-gardens. Charlemagne had all those vegetables -sold, and derived from them a very considerable revenue.<a name="anc_vii_18" id="anc_vii_18"></a><a href="#footnote-vii_18"><span class="fnanchor">[VII_18]</span></a></p> - -<p>Anderson makes an observation (under the date 1548), which deserves to -be noticed here, were it only on account of its singularity. “The -English,” says he, “cultivated scarcely any vegetable before the last -two centuries. At the commencement of the reign of Henry VIII., neither -salad, nor carrots, nor cabbages, nor radishes, nor any other -comestibles of a like nature, were grown in any part of the kingdom; -they came from Holland and Flanders.”</p> - -<p>According to the author of a project, printed in London in 1723, in -8vo., “for the relief of the poor, and the payment of old debts, without -the creation of new taxes,” Queen Catherine herself could not procure a -salad for her dinner. The king was obliged to send over<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_052" id="page_052"></a>{52}</span> to Holland for -a gardener to cultivate those pot-herbs, with which England is, perhaps, -better furnished now than any other country in Europe.</p> - -<p>Anderson asserts (1660) that cauliflowers were not known in England -until about the time of the Restoration. And, lastly, the author of the -“State of England,” printed in 1768, remarks that asparagus and -artichokes were only introduced a few years antecedent to that date.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_053" id="page_053"></a>{53}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="VIII" id="VIII"></a>VIII.<br /><br /> -DRIED VEGETABLES.</h2> - -<hr /> - -<h3>BEANS.</h3> - -<p>This innocent vegetable, which with us certainly awakens no lugubrious -thoughts, was formerly consecrated to the dead. It was offered in -sacrifices to the infernal gods, and its mysterious virtues evoked by -night, spirits, and shadows.<a name="anc_viii_1" id="anc_viii_1"></a><a href="#footnote-viii_1"><span class="fnanchor">[VIII_1]</span></a> The Flamen of Jupiter could not eat -it, and he was forbidden to touch a bean, or even to pronounce its -name;<a name="anc_viii_2" id="anc_viii_2"></a><a href="#footnote-viii_2"><span class="fnanchor">[VIII_2]</span></a> for the fatal plant contains a little black spot, which is -no other than a noxious character—a type of death.<a name="anc_viii_3" id="anc_viii_3"></a><a href="#footnote-viii_3"><span class="fnanchor">[VIII_3]</span></a></p> - -<p>Pythagoras and his followers carefully avoided this dismal food, in the -fear of submitting a father, sister, or beloved wife to the danger of a -cruel mastication;<a name="anc_viii_4" id="anc_viii_4"></a><a href="#footnote-viii_4"><span class="fnanchor">[VIII_4]</span></a> for who knew where wandering souls might rest -during the course of their numerous transmigrations.</p> - -<p>Grave writers say the cause of this abstinence is, that beans are -difficult of digestion; that they stupify those who make use of them as -food; and that hens who eat them cease to lay eggs.<a name="anc_viii_5" id="anc_viii_5"></a><a href="#footnote-viii_5"><span class="fnanchor">[VIII_5]</span></a> What more -shall we say? Hippocrates, wise as he certainly was, had some of these -strange fears, and he trembled for his patients when beans were in -blossom.<a name="anc_viii_6" id="anc_viii_6"></a><a href="#footnote-viii_6"><span class="fnanchor">[VIII_6]</span></a></p> - -<p>In spite of such ridiculous prejudices, this plant had numerous and -enlightened defenders. When green, it was served on tables renowned for -delicacies; and, when fully ripe, it frequently replaced both wheat and -other corn.<a name="anc_viii_7" id="anc_viii_7"></a><a href="#footnote-viii_7"><span class="fnanchor">[VIII_7]</span></a> One of the festivals of Apollo—the -<i>Pyanepsia</i>—owed its origin and pomp to the bean. This vegetable then -obtained preeminence<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_054" id="page_054"></a>{54}</span> over all that were boiled in the saucepan, and -offered to the God of Day and the Fine Arts.<a name="anc_viii_8" id="anc_viii_8"></a><a href="#footnote-viii_8"><span class="fnanchor">[VIII_8]</span></a> Is it possible to -imagine a more brilliant rehabilitation?</p> - -<p>If we are to believe Isidorus, this plant was the first culinary -vegetable of which man made use;<a name="anc_viii_9" id="anc_viii_9"></a><a href="#footnote-viii_9"><span class="fnanchor">[VIII_9]</span></a> he was, therefore, bound to -preserve a grateful remembrance of it.</p> - -<p>King David did not deem it unworthy of him,<a name="anc_viii_10" id="anc_viii_10"></a><a href="#footnote-viii_10"><span class="fnanchor">[VIII_10]</span></a> and the Prophet -Ezekiel was commanded to mix it with the different grains of which he -made his bread.<a name="anc_viii_11" id="anc_viii_11"></a><a href="#footnote-viii_11"><span class="fnanchor">[VIII_11]</span></a></p> - -<p>We possess few certain indications proving the different culinary -combinations to which beans gave rise among the ancients. All we know -is, that they ate them boiled,<a name="anc_viii_12" id="anc_viii_12"></a><a href="#footnote-viii_12"><span class="fnanchor">[VIII_12]</span></a> perhaps with bacon; -raw,<a name="anc_viii_13" id="anc_viii_13"></a><a href="#footnote-viii_13"><span class="fnanchor">[VIII_13]</span></a> with salt, we should imagine; or fried<a name="anc_viii_14" id="anc_viii_14"></a><a href="#footnote-viii_14"><span class="fnanchor">[VIII_14]</span></a> with fat, -butter, or oil.</p> - -<p>Two kinds especially attracted the attention of true connoisseurs of -that class of <i>gourmets</i> elect, whose palate is ever testing, and whose -sure taste detects and appreciates shades, of almost imperceptible -tenuity—first, the bean of Egypt, recommended for its rich, nutritious, -and wholesome pulp; this bean was also cultivated in Syria and -Cilicia:<a name="anc_viii_15" id="anc_viii_15"></a><a href="#footnote-viii_15"><span class="fnanchor">[VIII_15]</span></a> and secondly, the Greek bean, which passed at Rome for -a most delicious dish.<a name="anc_viii_16" id="anc_viii_16"></a><a href="#footnote-viii_16"><span class="fnanchor">[VIII_16]</span></a> Certain gastronomists, however, -preferred another vegetable of which we are going to speak.</p> - -<p>Ever since the middle ages the bean has played a very important part in -the famous “Twelfth-night cake,” almost all over Europe. The ephemeral -royalty it bestowed was often sung by the poets, and consecrated in -chronicles. Thomas Randolph informs us that Lady Flemyng was queen of -the bean in 1568.<a name="anc_viii_17" id="anc_viii_17"></a><a href="#footnote-viii_17"><span class="fnanchor">[VIII_17]</span></a> Some days after the Duke of Guise was -assassinated by Poltrot. History has its puerilities as well as its -great tragedies.</p> - -<p>The Spaniards had also their Twelfth-night cake. When John, Duke of -Braganza, had obtained the crown of Portugal (1640), Philip IV. of Spain -informed Count Olivares of the event, and added, as if it were a -consolation for the loss of a kingdom, that this new sovereign was -nothing more than a “king of the bean.”<a name="anc_viii_18" id="anc_viii_18"></a><a href="#footnote-viii_18"><span class="fnanchor">[VIII_18]</span></a> Philip was mistaken.</p> - -<p>These cakes were made in former days nearly in the same manner that we -make them now. Sometimes they contained honey, flour, ginger, and -pepper. One portion was for God, another for the Holy Virgin, and three -others for the Magi; that is to say, they gave all these portions to the -poor.<a name="anc_viii_19" id="anc_viii_19"></a><a href="#footnote-viii_19"><span class="fnanchor">[VIII_19]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_055" id="page_055"></a>{55}</span></p> - -<p>In England the cake was often full of raisins, among which one bean and -one pea were introduced.</p> - -<p>“Cut the cake,” says Melibœus to Nisa; “who hath the beane shal be -kinge; and where the peaze is, shal be queene.”<a name="anc_viii_20" id="anc_viii_20"></a><a href="#footnote-viii_20"><span class="fnanchor">[VIII_20]</span></a></p> - -<p>“At the present day the bean is one of the vegetables most cultivated in -Egypt and Italy. At Naples, as in Egypt, they are eaten raw when young, -and the large ones cooked and grilled in the oven. They are publicly -sold already cooked.”—<span class="smcap">Leman.</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>HARICOTS.</h3> - -<p>It is well known that Alexander the Great was fond of travelling, and -that he was generally accompanied in his peregrinations by a certain -number of soldiers, who occasionally took for him, on his route, cities, -provinces, and sometimes kingdoms. It happened, one day, that as the -Macedonian prince—worthy pupil of Aristotle—was herbalizing in India, -his eyes fell upon a field of haricots, which appeared to him very -inviting. It was the first time that he had seen this plant, and he -immediately ordered his cook to prepare a dish of them—we do not know -with what sauce; but he thought them good, and, thanks to this great -conqueror, Europe was enriched with a new vegetable.<a name="anc_viii_21" id="anc_viii_21"></a><a href="#footnote-viii_21"><span class="fnanchor">[VIII_21]</span></a></p> - -<p>Virgil was doubtless ignorant of this noble origin, when he decried -haricots severely, by qualifying them so disgracefully.<a name="anc_viii_22" id="anc_viii_22"></a><a href="#footnote-viii_22"><span class="fnanchor">[VIII_22]</span></a> It is -true that the lower classes of people, who were very fond of them, did -great injury to their reputation; for things the most exquisite soon -lose their value when they fall within the reach of the vulgar. It is -thus with a pleasing melody—when given up to the barbarous and -melancholy street organs it ceases to charm the ears of drawing-room -fashionables. The same again with a plaintive ballad—it loses its -attraction the moment a street Orpheus begins to murder it with his -Stentorian bawl.</p> - -<p>Let it not be thought, however, that the plant of which we speak was -exclusively reserved for the vulgar appetite. Oh, no! the Greeks and -Latins had too much good taste for that. The former allowed it a -distinguished place on their tables, together with figs, and other side<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_056" id="page_056"></a>{56}</span> -dishes. They only required that haricots should be young, tender, and -green.<a name="anc_viii_23" id="anc_viii_23"></a><a href="#footnote-viii_23"><span class="fnanchor">[VIII_23]</span></a></p> - -<p>In Rome they were preserved with vinegar and garum; and, prepared in -this manner, they excited the appetites of the guests at the beginning -of the repast.<a name="anc_viii_24" id="anc_viii_24"></a><a href="#footnote-viii_24"><span class="fnanchor">[VIII_24]</span></a> Moreover, it was admitted that this vegetable -was much more wholesome than beans, that the stomach was less fatigued -by it, and that persons of delicate constitutions might partake of it -without fear. Certain amateurs even pretended that no vegetable was to -be compared to haricots;<a name="anc_viii_25" id="anc_viii_25"></a><a href="#footnote-viii_25"><span class="fnanchor">[VIII_25]</span></a> but others differed from them on this -point; and the latter, right or wrong, pronounced in favour of peas.</p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>PEAS.</h3> - -<p>Green peas, we are sorry to say, were not appreciated as they deserved -to be by the Romans.<a name="anc_viii_26" id="anc_viii_26"></a><a href="#footnote-viii_26"><span class="fnanchor">[VIII_26]</span></a> It was reserved principally for our -century to discover their value, to cultivate them with care, and to -force nature to give them to us before the appointed time. This plant -was hardly known in 1550. Since that period, the gardener, Michaux, -undertook to bring it into repute. For some time in France it was called -only by the name of this worthy man.<a name="anc_viii_27" id="anc_viii_27"></a><a href="#footnote-viii_27"><span class="fnanchor">[VIII_27]</span></a></p> - -<p>Before that it was an unappreciated vegetable; it came forth, blossomed, -and disappeared, without utility and without renown.</p> - -<p>It was not thus with grey peas (<i>pois chiche</i>), which flourished at a -very remote period, and are mentioned in the sacred writings.<a name="anc_viii_28" id="anc_viii_28"></a><a href="#footnote-viii_28"><span class="fnanchor">[VIII_28]</span></a> -The common people of Rome and Greece made them their ordinary food. They -ate them boiled or fried; a rather disagreeable dish, according to the -caustic Martial,<a name="anc_viii_29" id="anc_viii_29"></a><a href="#footnote-viii_29"><span class="fnanchor">[VIII_29]</span></a> who, however, speaks with disdain of every -kind of peas, in whatsoever manner they may be prepared.</p> - -<p>Nevertheless, the satirical humour of this celebrated poet did not -prevent this vegetable from being universally sold; and men, women, and -children regaled, and even gorged, themselves, with fried grey -peas,<a name="anc_viii_30" id="anc_viii_30"></a><a href="#footnote-viii_30"><span class="fnanchor">[VIII_30]</span></a> or ram peas (<i>cicer arietinum</i>), a singular name, for -which they were indebted to the slight asperity remarkable in each of -the grains.<a name="anc_viii_31" id="anc_viii_31"></a><a href="#footnote-viii_31"><span class="fnanchor">[VIII_31]</span></a></p> - -<p>At the Circus, and in the theatres, they were sold at a low price to the -spectators, whom it seemed impossible to satiate with this delicacy,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_057" id="page_057"></a>{57}</span> -although it has so little attraction for us.<a name="anc_viii_32" id="anc_viii_32"></a><a href="#footnote-viii_32"><span class="fnanchor">[VIII_32]</span></a> In short, the -nation of kings had so decided a taste for grey peas, that those who -coveted public employment did not fail to distribute them gratuitously -to the people, in order to obtain their suffrages.<a name="anc_viii_33" id="anc_viii_33"></a><a href="#footnote-viii_33"><span class="fnanchor">[VIII_33]</span></a> We must -acknowledge that in those days votes were obtained at a very cheap rate.</p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>LENTILS.</h3> - -<p>The Egyptians, whose ideas were sometimes most eccentric, imagined it -was sufficient to feed children with lentils to enlighten their minds, -open their hearts, and render them cheerful. That people, therefore, -consumed an immense quantity of this vegetable, which from infancy had -been their principal food.<a name="anc_viii_34" id="anc_viii_34"></a><a href="#footnote-viii_34"><span class="fnanchor">[VIII_34]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Greeks also highly esteemed this aliment, and their ancient -philosophers regaled themselves with lentils. Zeno would not trust to -any one the cooking of them; it is true that the stoics had for their -maxim: “A wise man acts always with reason, and prepares his lentils -himself.”<a name="anc_viii_35" id="anc_viii_35"></a><a href="#footnote-viii_35"><span class="fnanchor">[VIII_35]</span></a> We must confess that the great wit of these words -escapes us, although we are willing to believe there is some in them.</p> - -<p>However it may be, lentils were abundant in Greece and in the East; and -many persons, otherwise very sensible, maintained, with the most serious -countenance in the world, that they softened the temper and disposed the -mind to study.<a name="anc_viii_36" id="anc_viii_36"></a><a href="#footnote-viii_36"><span class="fnanchor">[VIII_36]</span></a></p> - -<p>It is hardly necessary to observe that this plant was well known to the -Hebrews. The red pottage of lentils for which Esau sold his -birthright,<a name="anc_viii_37" id="anc_viii_37"></a><a href="#footnote-viii_37"><span class="fnanchor">[VIII_37]</span></a> the present of Shobi to David,<a name="anc_viii_38" id="anc_viii_38"></a><a href="#footnote-viii_38"><span class="fnanchor">[VIII_38]</span></a> the victory -of Shammah in the field of lentils,<a name="anc_viii_39" id="anc_viii_39"></a><a href="#footnote-viii_39"><span class="fnanchor">[VIII_39]</span></a> and, lastly, the bread of -Ezekiel,<a name="anc_viii_40" id="anc_viii_40"></a><a href="#footnote-viii_40"><span class="fnanchor">[VIII_40]</span></a> sufficiently prove that the Jews numbered this -vegetable as one of those in ordinary use among them.</p> - -<p>The Romans had not the same esteem for it as the nations we have -mentioned. According to them, the moisture in lentils could only cause -heaviness to the mind, and render men reserved, indolent, and lazy. The -name of this vegetable pretty well shows, they said, the bad effect it -produces. Lentil derives its origin from the word <i>lentus</i> -(slow),<a name="anc_viii_41" id="anc_viii_41"></a><a href="#footnote-viii_41"><span class="fnanchor">[VIII_41]</span></a> “<i>Lens a lente</i>.”</p> - -<p>And, as if enough had not been alleged to disgrace this unfortunate<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_058" id="page_058"></a>{58}</span> -plant, and to give the finish to the ill-fame it had acquired, it was -placed amongst funereal and ill-omened foods. Thus Marcus Crassus, -waging war against the Parthians, was convinced that his army would be -defeated, because his corn was exhausted, and his men were obliged to -have recourse to lentils.<a name="anc_viii_42" id="anc_viii_42"></a><a href="#footnote-viii_42"><span class="fnanchor">[VIII_42]</span></a></p> - -<p>How was it possible to resist such attacks! The humble plant gave way in -spite of the few flattering words of the poetic Virgil,<a name="anc_viii_43" id="anc_viii_43"></a><a href="#footnote-viii_43"><span class="fnanchor">[VIII_43]</span></a> and the -assurance of Pliny that this food produced two uncommon -virtues—mildness and moderation.<a name="anc_viii_44" id="anc_viii_44"></a><a href="#footnote-viii_44"><span class="fnanchor">[VIII_44]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_059" id="page_059"></a>{59}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="IX" id="IX"></a>IX.<br /><br /> -KITCHEN GARDEN.</h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">The</span> art of gardening, which may be called the luxury of -agriculture,<a name="anc_ix_1" id="anc_ix_1"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_1"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_1]</span></a> was known at the most remote periods.<a name="anc_ix_2" id="anc_ix_2"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_2"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_2]</span></a> In the -same inclosure was to be found the kitchen garden, orchard, and flower -garden,<a name="anc_ix_3" id="anc_ix_3"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_3"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_3]</span></a> at a short distance from the habitation of the rich.<a name="anc_ix_4" id="anc_ix_4"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_4"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_4]</span></a> -Royal hands did not disdain to embellish those spots which afforded a -pleasing retreat, solitude, and repose.</p> - -<p>Thus Attalus resigned the cares of his crown to cultivate his little -garden, and sow in it the seeds of his favourite plant.<a name="anc_ix_5" id="anc_ix_5"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_5"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_5]</span></a></p> - -<p>Babylon, the renowned city of antiquity, was celebrated amongst other -wonders for her gardens suspended in the air; they were partly in -existence sixteen centuries after their erection, and astonished -Alexander the Great<a name="anc_ix_6" id="anc_ix_6"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_6"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_6]</span></a> by the sublime grandeur of their prodigious -boldness and the rare beauty of their workmanship.</p> - -<p>Homer has left us the description of Alcinous’s garden,<a name="anc_ix_7" id="anc_ix_7"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_7"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_7]</span></a> from which -can be traced the birth of the art of gardening; its luxury consisted in -the order and symmetry of its form, in the richness of its soil, the -fertility of the trees, and in the two fountains which ornamented it. It -was not so with the Romans. Those conquerors of the world displayed -every where pomp and ostentation: Lucullus, Crassus, Pompey, and Cæsar, -filled their gardens with the riches of Asia and the spoils of the -universe.<a name="anc_ix_8" id="anc_ix_8"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_8"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_8]</span></a></p> - -<p>The serious horticulturist, who wanted a garden for enjoyment, and not -for show, carefully laboured, to see it bring forth fine fruits and -excellent vegetables.<a name="anc_ix_9" id="anc_ix_9"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_9"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_9]</span></a> Water was properly distributed for -irrigation by means of aqueducts<a name="anc_ix_10" id="anc_ix_10"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_10"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_10]</span></a> of tiles, wood, or lead -pipes,<a name="anc_ix_11" id="anc_ix_11"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_11"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_11]</span></a> and everywhere the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_060" id="page_060"></a>{60}</span> plants received the necessary -moisture; and clever experienced gardeners were constantly occupied in -improvements suggested by an attentive and skilful master.<a name="anc_ix_12" id="anc_ix_12"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_12"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_12]</span></a></p> - -<p>The kitchen garden of the ancients contained mostly the vegetables, -herbs, and roots, of which we still make use; but they also cultivated -certain other kinds, which modern cookery has either put aside or rarely -employs. We shall describe all those which appear most worthy of notice.</p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>CABBAGE.</h3> - -<p>This plant has experienced the fate of a host of human things that have -not been able to bear the weight of a too brilliant reputation. Time has -done justice to the extraordinary qualities attributed to it, and the -cabbage now remains, what it ought always to have been, an estimable -vegetable and nothing more.</p> - -<p>The Egyptians adored it, and raised altars to it. They afterwards made -of this strange god the first dish of their repasts, and were imitated -in this particular by the Greeks and Romans, who ascribed to it the -happy quality of preserving from drunkenness.<a name="anc_ix_13" id="anc_ix_13"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_13"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_13]</span></a> It was more -particularly the red cabbage that obtained these honours and -prerogatives. From Italy the victorious legions introduced it among the -Gauls, as well as the green cabbage; the white species appears to belong -originally to southern countries.</p> - -<p>Hippocrates had a peculiar affection for this vegetable. Should one of -his patients be seized with a violent cholic, he at once prescribed a -dish of boiled cabbage with salt.<a name="anc_ix_14" id="anc_ix_14"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_14"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_14]</span></a> Erasistratus looked upon it as -a sovereign remedy against paralysis. Pythagoras, and several other -learned philosophers, composed books in which they celebrated the -marvellous virtues of the cabbage.<a name="anc_ix_15" id="anc_ix_15"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_15"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_15]</span></a></p> - -<p>A writer, not less serious than those we have just quoted, the wise -Cato, affirms that this plant infallibly cures all diseases; and -pretends to have used this panacea to preserve his family from the -plague, which, otherwise, would not have failed to reach them. It is to -the use the Romans made of it, he adds, that they were able during six -hundred<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_061" id="page_061"></a>{61}</span> years to do without the assistance of physicians, whom they had -expelled from their territories.<a name="anc_ix_16" id="anc_ix_16"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_16"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_16]</span></a> This bold assertion deserved a -little retaliation on the part of the faculty; so they deposed the -cabbage from the rank occupied by it in medicine, and banished it to the -kitchen.</p> - -<p>The Athenian ladies formerly partook of the general enthusiasm in favour -of this wholesome vegetable, which was always served to them when a -new-born infant required their maternal love and care.<a name="anc_ix_17" id="anc_ix_17"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_17"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_17]</span></a></p> - -<p>The ancients were acquainted with three principal kinds of cabbage: the -silken-leaved, the curled, and the hard, round, white cabbage.<a name="anc_ix_18" id="anc_ix_18"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_18"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_18]</span></a></p> - -<p>Apicius does not busy himself with any one of these varieties in -particular in the various preparations he points out, and which we -submit to the appreciation of connoisseurs:</p> - -<p>1st. Take only the most delicate and tender part of the cabbage, which -boil, and then pour off the water; season it with cummin seed,<a name="anc_ix_19" id="anc_ix_19"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_19"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_19]</span></a> -salt, old wine, oil, pepper, alisander, mint, rue, coriander seed, -gravy, and oil.</p> - -<p>2nd. Prepare the cabbage in the manner just mentioned, and make a -seasoning of coriander seed, onion, cummin seed, pepper, a small -quantity of oil, and wine made of sun raisins.<a name="anc_ix_20" id="anc_ix_20"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_20"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_20]</span></a></p> - -<p>3rd. When you have boiled the cabbages in water, put them into a -saucepan and stew them with gravy, oil, wine, cummin seed, pepper, -leeks, and green coriander.<a name="anc_ix_21" id="anc_ix_21"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_21"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_21]</span></a></p> - -<p>4th. Add to the preceding ingredients flour of almonds, and raisins -dried in the sun.<a name="anc_ix_22" id="anc_ix_22"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_22"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_22]</span></a></p> - -<p>5th. Prepare them again in the above manner, and cook them with green -olives.<a name="anc_ix_23" id="anc_ix_23"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_23"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_23]</span></a></p> - -<p>Who will question the service rendered to the culinary art by -resuscitating these antique dishes, in which the cabbage admits of such -a variety of combinations, and which we owe to the learning and -experience of a man of taste? Whatever may be the opinion of our modern -Trimalcions, we must not forget that this vegetable, prepared according -to the recipe of Apicius, was the delight of the <i>gourmets</i> of Rome more -than eighteen centuries ago.</p> - -<p>The Romans brought the red cabbage into Gaul, and the green cabbage -also. White cabbages came from the north, and the art of making them -headed was unknown in the time of Charlemagne.<a name="anc_ix_24" id="anc_ix_24"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_24"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_24]</span></a></p> - -<p>“In some countries cauliflowers are dried, and the white headed cabbages -are preserved. The first, stripped of their leaves, are cut in slices,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_062" id="page_062"></a>{62}</span> -and boiled two minutes in water slightly salted. They are shortly after -withdrawn, and put to drain on hurdles, which are afterwards exposed to -the sun during two or three days. At the expiration of that time the -cauliflowers are placed in an oven half-warm, and are kept there till -the stalks are dry; they are then wrapped in paper to preserve them from -damp. To keep the headed cabbages, divide them in six or eight pieces, -according to size, throw them for an instant in boiling water, then -withdraw and plunge them in vinegar, which from time to time must be -changed, especially at the beginning, taking care to add always a little -salt.”—<span class="smcap">Dutour.</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>BEET.</h3> - -<p>Columella pretends that this plant owes its name (<i>beta</i>) to its -resemblance to the letter B.<a name="anc_ix_25" id="anc_ix_25"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_25"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_25]</span></a> We shall leave to the professional -etymologist the trouble of examining whether Columella made a mistake or -not.</p> - -<p>The Greeks had two distinct sorts of beet—the black and the pale; they -preferred the latter,<a name="anc_ix_26" id="anc_ix_26"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_26"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_26]</span></a> especially when it came from Ascrea in -Bœotia.<a name="anc_ix_27" id="anc_ix_27"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_27"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_27]</span></a> They called this species Sicilian beet; and the -physician Diphilus—who joined to his knowledge of botany that sort of -gastrophagic intuition, that culinary <i>mens divinior</i>, whose inspiration -never leads astray—placed it far above the cabbage, notwithstanding the -estimable qualities of this latter vegetable.<a name="anc_ix_28" id="anc_ix_28"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_28"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_28]</span></a> He recommended it -to be eaten boiled, with mustard, and considers this food as a very -excellent vermifuge.<a name="anc_ix_29" id="anc_ix_29"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_29"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_29]</span></a></p> - -<p>The beet has not found favour with Martial, who, always caustic and -severe, calls it an insipid dish.<a name="anc_ix_30" id="anc_ix_30"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_30"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_30]</span></a> This injurious, and perhaps -unjust, epithet would doubtless have exercised a fatal influence upon -the destiny of this most inoffensive of vegetables, if an opponent of -greater weight had not entered the lists against the atrabilarious poet.</p> - -<p>We read in Apicius: “Boil, over a slow fire, some very tender white -beet; add leeks, which have been taken from their native soil some days -previous; when all this is cooked put it into a saucepan with pepper, -gravy, and raisin wine; take care that the ebullition be regular, and -serve.<a name="anc_ix_31" id="anc_ix_31"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_31"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_31]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_063" id="page_063"></a>{63}</span></p> - -<p>“Or, if you prefer: tie in bundles the beet you have carefully chosen, -wash it, throw in some nitre, and boil it with water; then put it into a -saucepan with sun-raisin wine, pepper, cummin, and a little oil; at the -moment of ebullition add a mixture of gravy and coarsely chopped -walnuts; cover the saucepan for an instant, uncover, and serve.”<a name="anc_ix_32" id="anc_ix_32"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_32"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_32]</span></a></p> - -<p>The skilful artist is pleased for the third time to mention this -culinary herb; and this is the new preparation which he gives:—</p> - -<p>“When you have boiled beet in water until it is tender, add a pulp of -leeks, some coriander, and cummin seed, carefully combined with flour -and sun-made wine; place these different ingredients in a saucepan, and -add gravy, oil, and vinegar.”<a name="anc_ix_33" id="anc_ix_33"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_33"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_33]</span></a></p> - -<p>By tasting one of these dishes you will be convinced that Martial did -not understand them; or, perhaps, he composed his epigram after dinner.</p> - -<p>One species of beet is well known in its two principal varieties, under -the name of beet-root and white-beet. The southern parts of Europe -appear to be the native countries of the beet. It serves as food for -both man and cattle. Sugar is extracted from the root, and potash from -the stalks and leaves.</p> - -<p>Beet-root is preserved, after stripping it completely of its leaves, and -the earth which remains on them, in greenhouses, in dry cellars, and -even in trenches covered with earth, in layers, lengthwise, with sand. -They are thus preserved until the following May.</p> - -<p>“Beet-root is eaten cooked in ashes or in water, and seasoned in various -ways; they are excellent in salad, either by themselves, or mixed with -endives or dandelion, &c.”—<span class="smcap">Bosc.</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>SPINACH.</h3> - -<p>It does not appear that spinach was known to the Greeks and Romans. Some -authors think that it might be the <i>chrysolacanon</i> of the Greeks,<a name="anc_ix_34" id="anc_ix_34"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_34"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_34]</span></a> -but it is probable that this was no other than the <i>orach</i>;<a name="anc_ix_35" id="anc_ix_35"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_35"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_35]</span></a> -Beckmann<a name="anc_ix_36" id="anc_ix_36"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_36"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_36]</span></a> thinks, with several botanists, that this plant came -from Spain; and, indeed, it has been often called the <i>Spanish -vegetable</i>.<a name="anc_ix_37" id="anc_ix_37"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_37"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_37]</span></a></p> - -<p>We only speak of this plant by way of memento, and regret that our<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_064" id="page_064"></a>{64}</span> -first masters in cookery have not been able to transmit to us the -results of their studies and experience in the preparation of spinach, -whose precocity must always render it valuable to amateurs of vegetable -food.</p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>MALLOWS.</h3> - -<p>The ancients ate mallows, and recognised in them soothing and softening -qualities.<a name="anc_ix_38" id="anc_ix_38"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_38"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_38]</span></a> Diphilus of Siphne says that their juice lubricates -the windpipe, nourishes, and is easily digested.<a name="anc_ix_39" id="anc_ix_39"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_39"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_39]</span></a> Horace praises -this aliment;<a name="anc_ix_40" id="anc_ix_40"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_40"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_40]</span></a> and Martial, for once just, recommends its -use.<a name="anc_ix_41" id="anc_ix_41"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_41"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_41]</span></a></p> - -<p>It is true that a passage of Cicero would seem to indicate we know not -what deception, which appeared all at once when eating or after -partaking of mallows;<a name="anc_ix_42" id="anc_ix_42"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_42"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_42]</span></a> but the Roman orator, perhaps, knew little -of the properties of the plant, which were only described much later by -Pliny the naturalist. The curious may consult on this subject the -twenty-first chapter of the twentieth book of his great work.</p> - -<p>At all events mallows were in high renown; they occupied one of the -first ranks among pickles, those famous <i>acetaria</i> which had so powerful -an effect in quickening the appetites of the Greeks, and preparing their -stomachs for great gastronomic struggles.<a name="anc_ix_43" id="anc_ix_43"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_43"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_43]</span></a> They were served as a -salad. The large-leaved mallow was mixed with œnogarum, pepper, -gravy, and sun-made wine.<a name="anc_ix_44" id="anc_ix_44"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_44"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_44]</span></a></p> - -<p>The small-leaved mallows were also prepared with œnogarum and gravy; -but instead of pepper and wine, oil and vinegar were added.<a name="anc_ix_45" id="anc_ix_45"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_45"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_45]</span></a></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>ASPARAGUS.</h3> - -<p>“<i>Quiconque ne voit guère n’a guère à dire aussi.</i>”<a name="anc_ix_46" id="anc_ix_46"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_46"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_46]</span></a> But -travellers, those daring pioneers of science, have sometimes, in their -travels, the strange good fortune to behold wonders invisible to other -eyes. Thus some skilful explorators of Africa saw, about the middle of -the second century of the Christian era, in Getulia, asparagus of -excellent quality<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_065" id="page_065"></a>{65}</span> and of very beautiful growth, being no less than -twelve feet high! It is needless to add that the Libyan vendors rarely -sold them in bundles. But these veridical travellers, on quitting the -plain to ascend the mountains, found something still more wonderful; the -land there seemed to suit these plants still better, for they acquired -the height of twenty cubits.<a name="anc_ix_47" id="anc_ix_47"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_47"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_47]</span></a> After this, what shall we say of our -European asparagus, so shrivelled and diminutive in comparison with that -of Getulia?</p> - -<p>The Greeks, not having any better, contented themselves with the -ordinary sort, such as we have at the present day. They considered it -very useful in the treatment of internal diseases.<a name="anc_ix_48" id="anc_ix_48"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_48"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_48]</span></a> Diphilus, who -was very fond of it, regrets that this vegetable should be so hurtful to -the sight:<a name="anc_ix_49" id="anc_ix_49"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_49"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_49]</span></a> is it because we eat asparagus that spectacles have -become necessary at nearly all periods of life?</p> - -<p>The Romans cultivated this plant with extreme care,<a name="anc_ix_50" id="anc_ix_50"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_50"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_50]</span></a> and obtained -the most extraordinary results. At Ravenna, they raised asparagus each -stem of which weighed three pounds.<a name="anc_ix_51" id="anc_ix_51"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_51"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_51]</span></a></p> - -<p>Then, as in our days, they were allowed but a short time to boil; hence -the favourite expression of Augustus, who, to intimate his wish that any -affair might be concluded without delay, was accustomed to say: “Let -that be done quicker than you would cook asparagus.”<a name="anc_ix_52" id="anc_ix_52"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_52"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_52]</span></a></p> - -<p>The cooks of Rome had a method which appears to have been subsequently -too much neglected; they chose the finest heads of asparagus, and dried -them. When wanted for the table, they put them into hot water, and then -boiled them a few minutes.<a name="anc_ix_53" id="anc_ix_53"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_53"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_53]</span></a> Thanks to this simple process the -plant swelled considerably, and passed as being very tender and fine -flavoured.</p> - -<p>The Apicii, Luculli, and other connoisseurs of renown, had this -vegetable brought from the environs of Nesis, a city of Campania.<a name="anc_ix_54" id="anc_ix_54"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_54"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_54]</span></a></p> - -<p>It is asserted that Asia is its native soil, and that it was originally -brought to us from that part of the world. Nevertheless, wild asparagus -grows naturally in certain sandy soils, as, for instance, in the islands -of the Rhône and the Loire.<a name="anc_ix_55" id="anc_ix_55"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_55"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_55]</span></a></p> - -<p>“When it is found impossible to eat all the asparagus you have cut, and -which has arrived at a convenient maturity, place them by the thick ends -in a vessel containing about two inches of water; or else, bury them -half-way up in fresh sand. By means of these precautions asparagus may -be preserved several days.”—<span class="smcap">Parmentier.</span><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_066" id="page_066"></a>{66}</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>GOURD.</h3> - -<p>This vegetable, which the wise <i>gourmet</i> is too discreet to despise, and -to which the whimsical fancy of Roman gardeners gave the most grotesque -forms,<a name="anc_ix_56" id="anc_ix_56"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_56"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_56]</span></a> appears to be the very image of those soft and easy -dispositions who yield to and obey every one, and whose unintelligent -mildness is only repaid with sarcasm or disdain. Observe this creeping -vegetable, left free to grow to its full size, which would sometimes -attain the length of nine feet,<a name="anc_ix_57" id="anc_ix_57"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_57"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_57]</span></a> and which the will of man was -able to reduce to the slender and tortuous shape of a hideous -dragon.<a name="anc_ix_58" id="anc_ix_58"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_58"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_58]</span></a> When hardly ripe, it was cut and served on the tables of -the most dainty, where it was eaten with vinegar and mustard, or -seasoned with fine herbs:<a name="anc_ix_59" id="anc_ix_59"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_59"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_59]</span></a> and whilst the ungrateful guests -savoured the stomachic and nourishing flesh of the gourd,<a name="anc_ix_60" id="anc_ix_60"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_60"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_60]</span></a> they -did not cease to amuse themselves at the expense of its round and almost -empty body<a name="anc_ix_61" id="anc_ix_61"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_61"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_61]</span></a>—the proverbial image of a head not over well-provided -with brains.<a name="anc_ix_62" id="anc_ix_62"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_62"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_62]</span></a></p> - -<p>To the present day even, more than one popular joke continues to pursue -this plant, although its culinary qualities are appreciated as formerly.</p> - -<p>We are indebted to India for the seed of the gourd,<a name="anc_ix_63" id="anc_ix_63"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_63"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_63]</span></a> which the -Greeks designated, according to the species, by the names of Indian and -common gourd. The latter kind was either boiled or roasted; the former -was generally boiled in water.<a name="anc_ix_64" id="anc_ix_64"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_64"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_64]</span></a> Antioch furnished the finest -specimens to the markets of Athens.<a name="anc_ix_65" id="anc_ix_65"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_65"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_65]</span></a></p> - -<p>The ancients were acquainted with the manner of preserving this -vegetable in such a state of freshness as to enable them to eat it with -pleasure in the month of January:<a name="anc_ix_66" id="anc_ix_66"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_66"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_66]</span></a> the method is as follows,—the -gourds were cut in pieces of a moderate size; these pieces, strung like -beads, where first dried in the open air, and then smoked; when winter -arrived, each piece was well washed before putting it into the stewpan, -with the various culinary herbs which the season produced; to this was -added endive, curled cabbage, and dried mushrooms.<a name="anc_ix_67" id="anc_ix_67"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_67"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_67]</span></a> The rest of -the operation is easily understood. The Romans prepared this vegetable -in different ways: a few of the principal ones will suffice.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_067" id="page_067"></a>{67}</span>1st. Boil the gourd in water, squeeze it out carefully, place it in a -saucepan, and mix some pepper, a little cummin seed, rue, gravy, -vinegar, and a small quantity of wine, reduced to one-half by boiling. -Let the whole stew, and then sprinkle it lightly with pepper, and -serve.<a name="anc_ix_68" id="anc_ix_68"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_68"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_68]</span></a></p> - -<p>2nd. Boil and carefully squeeze them to extract the water, then put the -gourds into a saucepan with vinegar and gravy; when it begins to simmer, -thicken with fine flour, sprinkle lightly with pepper, and serve.<a name="anc_ix_69" id="anc_ix_69"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_69"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_69]</span></a></p> - -<p>3rd. Throw some salt on the gourd after it has been boiled, and the -water pressed out of it; put it into a saucepan, with a mixture of -pepper, cummin seed, coriander, green mint, and the root of benzoin; add -some vinegar; then chop some dates and almonds; a little later, more -vinegar, honey, gravy, sun-made wine, and oil; sprinkle lightly with -pepper, and serve.<a name="anc_ix_70" id="anc_ix_70"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_70"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_70]</span></a></p> - -<p>4th. Put into a stewpan a fowl, with a gourd; add some apricots, -truffles, pepper, cummin, sylphium, mint, parsley, coriander, -pennyroyal, and calamint; moisten with wine, gravy, oil, vinegar, and -honey.<a name="anc_ix_71" id="anc_ix_71"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_71"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_71]</span></a></p> - -<p>These four recipes are sufficient to prove that this vegetable stood -very high in the estimation of the Romans.</p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>TURNIPS.</h3> - -<p>The epicureans of Athens preferred turnips brought from Thebes;<a name="anc_ix_72" id="anc_ix_72"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_72"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_72]</span></a> -Roman gastronomists placed those of Amitermes in the first rank, and -those of Nursia in the second. The kitchen-gardeners of Rome furnished -them with a third variety, to which they had recourse when they could -not procure any other.<a name="anc_ix_73" id="anc_ix_73"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_73"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_73]</span></a> They were eaten boiled, thus:—after the -water had been extracted from them, they were seasoned with cummin, rue, -and benzoin, pounded in a mortar, adding to it afterwards honey, -vinegar, gravy, boiled grapes, and a little oil. The whole was left to -simmer, and then served.<a name="anc_ix_74" id="anc_ix_74"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_74"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_74]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_068" id="page_068"></a>{68}</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>CARROTS.</h3> - -<p>The Greeks and Romans planted or sowed them in the beginning of the -spring, or autumn.<a name="anc_ix_75" id="anc_ix_75"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_75"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_75]</span></a> They distinguished two kinds, the wild and the -cultivated.<a name="anc_ix_76" id="anc_ix_76"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_76"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_76]</span></a></p> - -<p>This much esteemed root received the honour of being prepared in many -ways. Sometimes it was eaten as a salad, with salt, oil, and -vinegar.<a name="anc_ix_77" id="anc_ix_77"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_77"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_77]</span></a></p> - -<p>It was also stewed, and mixed afterwards with œnogarum.<a name="anc_ix_78" id="anc_ix_78"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_78"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_78]</span></a> Again, -they boiled it in a stewpan, over a slow fire, with some cummin and a -little oil, and just before serving it was sprinkled with ground cummin -seeds.<a name="anc_ix_79" id="anc_ix_79"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_79"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_79]</span></a></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>BLIT</h3> - -<p>(A SORT OF BEET).</p> - -<p>Blit is one of the family of <i>atriplices</i>, which grows in Europe, and in -the temperate regions of Asia; it owes its ancient reputation entirely -to the insipidity of its flavour, from which it derives its Greek name, -synonymous with stupidity and insignificance.<a name="anc_ix_80" id="anc_ix_80"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_80"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_80]</span></a> Blit was eaten -boiled, when nothing better was to be had. In fact, it was a last -resource—and nothing more.</p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>PURSLAINE.</h3> - -<p>This vegetable, the aspect of which would lead us to suppose it -possessed savoury qualities (though experience proves the contrary), was -formerly mixed in different salads, and still enjoys some esteem when -associated with a leg of mutton.<a name="anc_ix_81" id="anc_ix_81"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_81"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_81]</span></a></p> - -<p>In default of esculent qualities (which it certainly does not possess),<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_069" id="page_069"></a>{69}</span> -the ancients recognised in purslaine many admirable virtues,<a name="anc_ix_82" id="anc_ix_82"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_82"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_82]</span></a> -which are not acknowledged in the present day. The internal use of this -plant, also its external application, cured the bite of serpents, wounds -inflicted by poisoned arrows, and infallibly neutralized the effects of -poisonous drinks.<a name="anc_ix_83" id="anc_ix_83"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_83"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_83]</span></a> But, alas! purslaine is not now what it was -formerly; for it is hardly permitted to appear by the side of one of our -fresh white lettuces.</p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>SORREL.</h3> - -<p>Sorrel is a polygenous plant, and grows throughout Europe amidst the -grass fields. The Romans cultivated it in order to give it more -vigour,<a name="anc_ix_84" id="anc_ix_84"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_84"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_84]</span></a> and ate it sometimes stewed with mustard, and seasoned -with a little oil and vinegar.<a name="anc_ix_85" id="anc_ix_85"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_85"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_85]</span></a></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>BROCOLI.</h3> - -<p>Drusus, son of Tiberius, was so passionately fond of the brocoli, which -Apicius induced him to eat, that he was more than once severely -reprimanded by his father on the subject.<a name="anc_ix_86" id="anc_ix_86"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_86"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_86]</span></a> It is true that the -celebrated Roman epicurean displayed so much art, and gave such -delicious flavour to it, that this dish alone would have been enough to -establish his reputation. In fact, brocoli has always been appreciated -by connoisseurs; and Glaucias, who passed his life in meditating -seriously on the perfectibility of culinary ingredients, said: “That -nothing could be better than this vegetable, boiled and suitably -seasoned.”<a name="anc_ix_87" id="anc_ix_87"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_87"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_87]</span></a></p> - -<p>This was the method of preparing it at Rome: they used only the most -tender and delicate parts of the brocoli, which were boiled with that -extreme care the artist always devotes to this first operation; and, -afterwards, when the water had been well drained off, they added some -cummin seed, pepper, chopped onions, and coriander seed—all braised -together, not forgetting, before serving up, to add a little oil and -sun-made wine.<a name="anc_ix_88" id="anc_ix_88"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_88"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_88]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_070" id="page_070"></a>{70}</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>ARTICHOKE.</h3> - -<p>A young and unfortunate beauty had the ill-luck to displease a -vindictive and irascible god, who instantly metamorphosed her into an -artichoke.<a name="anc_ix_89" id="anc_ix_89"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_89"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_89]</span></a> This poor girl’s name was Cinara. Although she had -become a bitter plant she preserved this sweet name, which the moderns -have strangely modified. Our readers, who eat artichokes with so much -indifference, will, perhaps, sometimes lament this poor victim of a -blind resentment.</p> - -<p>This plant was well known to the ancients; the hilly regions of Greece, -Asia, and Egypt were covered with it;<a name="anc_ix_90" id="anc_ix_90"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_90"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_90]</span></a> but the inhabitants made no -use of it as an aliment, and it remained uncultivated.<a name="anc_ix_91" id="anc_ix_91"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_91"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_91]</span></a></p> - -<p>It would be rather difficult to trace the precise period when it was -first introduced into Italy. All we know is, that it grew there more -than half a century before the Christian era, in the time of -Dioscorides, who mentioned it.<a name="anc_ix_92" id="anc_ix_92"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_92"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_92]</span></a> It appears, nevertheless, that -hardly any one troubled himself about artichokes, or their esculent -qualities, up to that time; but the wealthy, about a century after, -began to appreciate them, and Pliny, in one of his jesting whims, -reproaches the rich with having deprived the lower classes and <i>asses</i> -of a food which nature seemed to have destined for them.<a name="anc_ix_93" id="anc_ix_93"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_93"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_93]</span></a></p> - -<p>This vegetable was then very dear,<a name="anc_ix_94" id="anc_ix_94"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_94"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_94]</span></a> for it did not succeed, and -was subsequently given up. It was so far forgotten that in the year 1473 -it appeared as a novelty at Venice;<a name="anc_ix_95" id="anc_ix_95"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_95"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_95]</span></a> and towards the year 1465 it -was brought from Naples to Florence, whence it passed into France in the -sixteenth century.<a name="anc_ix_96" id="anc_ix_96"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_96"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_96]</span></a></p> - -<p>Galen<a name="anc_ix_97" id="anc_ix_97"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_97"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_97]</span></a> looked upon the artichoke as a bad food.<a name="anc_ix_98" id="anc_ix_98"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_98"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_98]</span></a> Columella -sung its praise in his verses; he recommended it to the disciples of -Bacchus, and forbid the use of it to those who were anxious to preserve -a sweet and pure voice.<a name="anc_ix_99" id="anc_ix_99"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_99"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_99]</span></a></p> - -<p>This plant, whatever may be in other respects its estimable qualities, -does not please every one equally well; its bitterness and unpleasant -odour keep it at a distance from numerous palates—perhaps because too -many allow themselves to be prejudiced by deceitful appearances. Here -are two very ingenious methods by means of which a trial might<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_071" id="page_071"></a>{71}</span> be made -to overcome, or lessen, the defects it undoubtedly has, and which we can -but deplore:—</p> - -<p>Artichokes will become mild by taking care to steep the seed in a -mixture of honey and milk.<a name="anc_ix_100" id="anc_ix_100"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_100"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_100]</span></a> They will then exhale the most -agreeable perfume, particularly when this seed has passed three days in -the juice of bay leaves, lilies, or roses.<a name="anc_ix_101" id="anc_ix_101"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_101"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_101]</span></a></p> - -<p>Having quoted the authority, we give the recipe for what it is worth.</p> - -<p>Until the result of this experiment is known, artichokes may be eaten -raw, with a seasoning of hard eggs chopped in very small pieces, garum, -and oil.<a name="anc_ix_102" id="anc_ix_102"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_102"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_102]</span></a></p> - -<p>If you prefer a sharper sauce, mix well some green mint with rue, Greek -fennel,<a name="anc_ix_103" id="anc_ix_103"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_103"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_103]</span></a> and coriander; add, afterwards, some pepper, alisander, -honey, garum, and oil.<a name="anc_ix_104" id="anc_ix_104"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_104"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_104]</span></a> They are also eaten boiled, with cummin, -pepper, gravy, and oil.<a name="anc_ix_105" id="anc_ix_105"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_105"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_105]</span></a></p> - -<p>“It is well known under what form artichokes, either raw or cooked, -appear on our tables. The best way to preserve them is to half cook -them, separate the leaves from the fur, and preserve the fleshy part, -called <i>the bottom</i>, and throw them, still warm, in cold water, to make -them firm. That operation is called <i>blanchir</i>. They are laid afterwards -on hurdles, and put four different times in the oven, as soon as the -bread is taken out. They become then very thin, hard, and transparent, -like horn, and return to their original form in hot water. They must be -kept free from damp.”—<span class="smcap">Parmentier.</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>POMPION.</h3> - -<p>Like the gourd, the good and creeping pompion has served more than once -as a term of comparison, and that in a style most humiliating. Should -any one happen to be thick-headed, or not very intelligent,<a name="anc_ix_106" id="anc_ix_106"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_106"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_106]</span></a> he -was immediately compared to a pompion (popularly, pumpkin—whence -bumpkin). The insult went still further: it was said of a pusillanimous -man, “That he had a pompion where his heart ought to have been.”<a name="anc_ix_107" id="anc_ix_107"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_107"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_107]</span></a></p> - -<p>The obesity of this vegetable, and its inelegant shape, have doubtless -given rise to these injurious remarks.</p> - -<p>It was, however, acknowledged that it possessed many estimable<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_072" id="page_072"></a>{72}</span> -qualities, which ought to have compensated for its outward defects. It -was thought to be very refreshing, and was employed with success in the -treatment of diseases of the eyes.<a name="anc_ix_108" id="anc_ix_108"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_108"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_108]</span></a></p> - -<p>We might undertake (if permitted) a long dissertation, in order to prove -that the Hebrews, weary of being in the Desert, murmured because they -were deprived of the pompion of Egypt,<a name="anc_ix_109" id="anc_ix_109"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_109"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_109]</span></a> and not the melon, as -translators have rendered it; but we should be accused of egregious -presumption; the learned would frown, critics would not spare us, and -our pompions would, nevertheless, pass as melons.</p> - -<p>This plant occupies a prominent place in the precious catalogue of Roman -dainties which we offer for the meditation of judges. Here are some of -the ancient modes of preparing this vegetable:</p> - -<p>1st. Boil some pompions, put them in a stewpan with cummin and a little -oil; place them for a short time over a slow fire, and serve.<a name="anc_ix_110" id="anc_ix_110"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_110"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_110]</span></a></p> - -<p>2nd. When you have well boiled, reduce them to a pulp, then put them on -a dish with pepper, alisander, cummin, wild marjoram, onion, wine, -garum, and oil; thicken with flour, and serve.<a name="anc_ix_111" id="anc_ix_111"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_111"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_111]</span></a></p> - -<p>3rd. When the pompion has boiled in water, it is then seasoned with wild -fennel, sylphium,<a name="anc_ix_112" id="anc_ix_112"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_112"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_112]</span></a> dried mint, vinegar, and garum.<a name="anc_ix_113" id="anc_ix_113"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_113"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_113]</span></a></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>CUCUMBER.</h3> - -<p>When the Israelites were in the Desert they regretted much the cucumbers -of Egypt, which were sold to them at a very trifling price when under -the yoke of Pharaoh.<a name="anc_ix_114" id="anc_ix_114"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_114"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_114]</span></a> We may thence infer that this vegetable was -very plentiful, and chiefly in great demand by the lower order of -people; for as the Jews were in a state of servitude, they were -necessarily assimilated with the most abject of the Egyptians.</p> - -<p>We see that this <i>cucurbitacea</i> has been long known, and that, after the -lapse of many centuries, it is held in the same degree of estimation it -enjoyed among the Eastern nations.</p> - -<p>The Greeks thought much of the cucumber, particularly of that kind which -came from the environs of Antioch.<a name="anc_ix_115" id="anc_ix_115"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_115"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_115]</span></a> They attributed to this plant -marvellous properties, which modern scepticism has completely<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_073" id="page_073"></a>{73}</span> thrown -aside. We think it good in salad, with vinegar, oil, pepper, and salt, -and that is all.</p> - -<p>It is, we imagine, the only good quality our farmers ascribe to it at -the present day. Formerly, in Greece, the same class of persons, being -clearer-sighted, or more credulous, were convinced that this vegetable -protected all kinds of seeds against the voracity of insects. To obtain -this result it was only necessary to steep the seed in the juice -obtained from the root of the cucumber, before it was sown.<a name="anc_ix_116" id="anc_ix_116"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_116"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_116]</span></a></p> - -<p>We freely offer this preservative to those who may wish to give it a -trial, and sincerely hope they may profit by this revival of the Greek -process.</p> - -<p>The Romans conceived that this cold and somewhat insipid vegetable (we -beg pardon of its admirers) required a seasoning to heighten its -flavour. No sooner had they transplanted it from Asia into Rome,<a name="anc_ix_117" id="anc_ix_117"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_117"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_117]</span></a> -than they busied themselves in rendering it worthy of their tables by -various preparations, which may, perhaps, interest the curious.</p> - -<p>1st. Scrape the cucumbers, and eat them with œnogarum.<a name="anc_ix_118" id="anc_ix_118"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_118"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_118]</span></a><a name="anc_w" id="anc_w"></a><a href="#footnote_w"><span class="fnanchor">[W]</span></a></p> - -<p>Or, prepare the condiment with thyme, wild mint, pepper, and alisander; -to which add, as before, garum, oil, and honey.<a name="anc_ix_120" id="anc_ix_120"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_120"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_120]</span></a></p> - -<p>2nd. Scrape the cucumbers, and boil them with parsley, seed, gravy, and -oil; thicken, and sprinkle pepper over the dish before serving.<a name="anc_ix_121" id="anc_ix_121"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_121"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_121]</span></a></p> - -<p>3rd. Again, they may be seasoned with pepper, pennyroyal, honey, or -sun-made wine, gravy, vinegar, and a little sylphium.<a name="anc_ix_122" id="anc_ix_122"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_122"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_122]</span></a></p> - -<p>4th. You will obtain a most delicate dish by boiling the cucumbers with -brains, already cooked; adding afterwards some cummin, and a little -honey.<a name="anc_ix_123" id="anc_ix_123"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_123"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_123]</span></a></p> - -<p>The cucumber, although but little nutritious, does not agree with cold -stomachs. In the north an astonishing quantity are consumed. The Poles -ate them at every repast with boiled meat.</p> - -<p>“Cucumbers are preserved in a very simple manner. The essential point is -to obtain good wine-vinegar. After having well washed and wiped them, -put them into either white or red vinegar (the colour is better -preserved by using the white); add salt; cover simply the vessel -containing them with a board. The vinegar must always be an inch higher -than the cucumbers, and must be entirely renewed at the end of a -month.”—<span class="smcap">Parmentier.</span><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_074" id="page_074"></a>{74}</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>LETTUCE.</h3> - -<p>From time immemorial the lettuce has occupied a most distinguished place -in the kitchen garden. The Hebrews ate it, without preparation, with the -Paschal lamb.<a name="anc_ix_124" id="anc_ix_124"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_124"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_124]</span></a> The opulent Greeks were very fond of the lettuces -of Smyrna,<a name="anc_ix_125" id="anc_ix_125"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_125"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_125]</span></a> which appeared on their tables at the end of a -repast;<a name="anc_ix_126" id="anc_ix_126"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_126"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_126]</span></a> the Romans, who at first imitated them, decided, under -Domitian, that this favourite dish should be served in the first course -with eggs,<a name="anc_ix_127" id="anc_ix_127"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_127"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_127]</span></a> purposely to excite their indomitable appetites, -which three courses (and such courses, ye gods! when compared with ours -of the present day) would hardly satisfy.</p> - -<p>The bitter lettuce was sufficient for the frugal Hebrews,<a name="anc_ix_128" id="anc_ix_128"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_128"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_128]</span></a> but -the delicate epicureans of Athens and Rome were much more particular; -they valued them only when a mild and sweet savour invited the most -rebellious palate, and awakened the slumbering desires of a fatigued -stomach. And what care, what attention, did they not bestow on the -growth and maturity of this cherished plant!</p> - -<p>Aristoxenus, a philosopher by profession, an epicurean by taste, had in -his garden a species of lettuce which was the envy of his surrounding -neighbours. The worthy man, rendered happy by their jealous admiration, -went every evening, without fail, to contemplate the small square of -ground which contained his treasure, and sprinkled it carefully with -water, doubtless from a limpid stream. Tush! Water, to moisten the -lettuces of Aristoxenus! No: the philosopher kept in reserve a sweet and -excellent wine to quench the thirst of his plants, and to communicate to -them that delicate perfume and exquisite taste, the mysterious cause of -which baffled the neighbouring gastronomists.</p> - -<p>The day after, the arch old man would say, with a roguish smile, that he -was going to gather some relishing green cakes, which the earth prepared -expressly for him,<a name="anc_ix_129" id="anc_ix_129"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_129"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_129]</span></a> and the simple countrymen were wonder-struck -without understanding the cause.</p> - -<p>The lettuce—favourite plant of the beautiful Adonis<a name="anc_ix_130" id="anc_ix_130"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_130"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_130]</span></a>—possesses -a narcotic virtue, of which ancient physicians have taken notice. Galen -mentions that, in his old age, he had not found a better remedy against -the wakefulness he was troubled with.<a name="anc_ix_131" id="anc_ix_131"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_131"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_131]</span></a> The biographer of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_075" id="page_075"></a>{75}</span> -Augustus informs us that this Emperor, being attacked with hypochondria, -recovered only by the use of lettuces, recommended by Musa, his first -physician;<a name="anc_ix_132" id="anc_ix_132"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_132"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_132]</span></a> nothing, therefore, is wanting in praise of this -useful plant—literally nothing, since the king of cooks, Cœlius -Apicius, judged it worthy of an honourable place in the immortal book he -has bequeathed to the amateurs of the Archeologico-culinary science of -all ages and all countries.</p> - -<p>“Take,” says he, “the leaves of lettuces, let them be boiled with -onions, in water wherein you have put some nitre; take them out, squeeze -out the water, and cut them in small pieces; mix well some pepper, -alisander,<a name="anc_ix_133" id="anc_ix_133"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_133"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_133]</span></a> parsley seed, dried mint, and onions; put this -mixture to the lettuce, and add to the whole some gravy, oil, and -wine.”<a name="anc_ix_134" id="anc_ix_134"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_134"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_134]</span></a></p> - -<p>Lettuces may also be eaten with a dressing of gravy and pickles.<a name="anc_ix_135" id="anc_ix_135"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_135"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_135]</span></a></p> - -<p>Our ancestors served salads with roasted meat, roasted poultry, &c. They -had a great many which are now no longer in vogue. They ate leeks, -cooked in the wood-ashes, and seasoned with salt and honey; borage, -mint, and parsley, with salt and oil; lettuce, fennel, mint, chervil, -parsley, and elder-flowers mixed together. They also classed among their -salads an agglomeration of feet, heads, cocks’ combs, and fowls’ livers, -cooked, and seasoned with parsley, mint, vinegar, pepper, and cinnamon. -Nettles, and the twigs of rosemary, formed delicious salads for our -forefathers; and to these they sometimes added pickled gherkins.<a name="anc_ix_136" id="anc_ix_136"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_136"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_136]</span></a></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>ENDIVE.</h3> - -<p>Pliny assures us that the juice of this plant, mixed with vinegar and -oil of roses, is an excellent remedy for the head-ache;<a name="anc_ix_137" id="anc_ix_137"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_137"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_137]</span></a> we leave -to the proper judges a pharmaceutical mixture which does not belong to -our province, and which we only quote <i>en passant</i>.</p> - -<p>Virgil thought endive bitter,<a name="anc_ix_138" id="anc_ix_138"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_138"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_138]</span></a> but he did not speak ill of it. -Columella recommended this salad to fastidious and satiated -palates;<a name="anc_ix_139" id="anc_ix_139"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_139"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_139]</span></a> this is praising it. The Egyptians appreciated its -merits,<a name="anc_ix_140" id="anc_ix_140"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_140"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_140]</span></a> which the Greeks had too much sense and good taste to -disdain; and the Romans ate it prepared in the following manner:—<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_076" id="page_076"></a>{76}</span></p> - -<p>Choose some fine endive; wash it well; drain off all the water; add a -little gravy and oil; then chop some onions very small; strew them over -the endive, and add honey and vinegar.<a name="anc_ix_141" id="anc_ix_141"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_141"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_141]</span></a></p> - -<p>It is understood that the sweet savour of the honey corrects the -bitterness of the plant; but a judicious attention must preside over the -quantity of that substance, for too much or too little might easily -spoil this salad of Apicius.</p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>ONIONS.</h3> - -<p>Whoever wishes to preserve his health must eat every morning, before -breakfast, young onions, with honey.<a name="anc_ix_142" id="anc_ix_142"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_142"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_142]</span></a> Such a treat is assuredly -not very tempting: besides, this rather strong vegetable leaves after it -a most unpleasant perfume, which long reminds us of its presence; -wherefore this recipe has not met with favour, and, indeed, it is much -to be doubted whether it will ever become fashionable.</p> - -<p>Alexander the Great found the onion in Egypt, where the Hebrews had -learned to like it.<a name="anc_ix_143" id="anc_ix_143"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_143"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_143]</span></a> He brought it into Greece, where it was -given as food to the troops, whose martial ardour<a name="anc_ix_144" id="anc_ix_144"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_144"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_144]</span></a> it was thought -to excite.</p> - -<p>Pliny assures us that Gaul produced a small kind, which the Romans -called Gallic onions, and which they thought more delicate than those of -Italy.<a name="anc_ix_145" id="anc_ix_145"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_145"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_145]</span></a> At any rate, it was a dish given up to plebeians and the -poor. Horace opposed to it fish—the luxurious nourishment of rich and -dainty Romans.<a name="anc_ix_146" id="anc_ix_146"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_146"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_146]</span></a> In spite of this reprobation on the part of the -elegant poet, Apicius does not fear to introduce the plant in his <i>Olus -Molle</i>, a kind of <i>Julienne</i>, not devoid of merit.</p> - -<p>Take onions, rather dry, and mix pepper, alisander, and winter-savory, -to season a variety of vegetables previously boiled in water and nitre, -the which, when very fine, thicken with cullis, oil, and wine.<a name="anc_ix_147" id="anc_ix_147"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_147"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_147]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_077" id="page_077"></a>{77}</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>LEEKS.</h3> - -<p>This vegetable—a powerful divinity, dreaded among the -Egyptians,<a name="anc_ix_148" id="anc_ix_148"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_148"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_148]</span></a> and a food bewailed by the Israelites in their -journey through the Desert<a name="anc_ix_149" id="anc_ix_149"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_149"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_149]</span></a>—cured the Greeks of numerous -diseases, which in our days it is to be feared would resist its -medicinal properties.<a name="anc_ix_150" id="anc_ix_150"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_150"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_150]</span></a> Everything changes in this sublunary -world, and the leek no doubt follows the common law.</p> - -<p>The authors of a compilation rather indigestible at times, but often -very curious, assert that this vegetable attains an extraordinary size, -by putting as many of the seeds as one can take up with three fingers -into a piece of linen, which is then to be tied-up, covered with manure, -and watered with care. All these seeds—so they say—will at last form -themselves into one single seed, which will produce a monstrous -leek.<a name="anc_ix_151" id="anc_ix_151"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_151"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_151]</span></a></p> - -<p>This process, which is revealed to us by the geoponics, would have had -an enthusiastic reception from those fervent pagans who vied in zeal -with each other, to see who could offer Latona, on the day of the -Theoxenias, the most magnificent leek.<a name="anc_ix_152" id="anc_ix_152"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_152"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_152]</span></a></p> - -<p>The mother of Apollo received this plant with pleasure, although -presented to her quite raw; but she would probably have preferred it -dressed in the following manner:—</p> - -<p>Take leeks, the mildest it is possible to procure; boil them in water -and oil, with a handful of salt, and put them into a dish, with gravy, -oil, and wine.<a name="anc_ix_153" id="anc_ix_153"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_153"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_153]</span></a></p> - -<p>Or, cover the leeks with young cabbage leaves; cook them under the hot -embers, and season afterwards as above.<a name="anc_ix_154" id="anc_ix_154"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_154"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_154]</span></a></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>MELON.</h3> - -<p>This <i>cucurbitacea</i>, the most delicate vegetable belonging to this -numerous family, has always been the delight of the inhabitants of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_078" id="page_078"></a>{78}</span> -East and of Europe. It came originally from the most temperate regions -of Asia; the chivalric Baber made it known to his Hindoo -subjects;<a name="anc_ix_155" id="anc_ix_155"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_155"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_155]</span></a> and the Romans introduced it into the west, at the -time of their first expedition against the Persians. Melons had a -prodigious success at Rome, and soon became a necessity with which the -wealthy could not dispense. The Emperor Tiberius, that cruel and -covetous prince,<a name="anc_ix_156" id="anc_ix_156"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_156"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_156]</span></a> liked them so much that they were served to him -every day throughout the year.</p> - -<p>The Greeks, whose ingenious and lively imagination mingled with -everything the sweet perfume of flowers, contrived to place the seeds of -melons in vessels full of rose leaves, with which they were afterwards -sown. They maintained that, when at maturity, this cool and refreshing -vegetable was impregnated with sweet emanations, and that its flavour -called to mind its sweet and delicious abode with the queen of -flowers.<a name="anc_ix_157" id="anc_ix_157"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_157"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_157]</span></a></p> - -<p>Sometimes also they macerated the seeds in milk and honey. Not only -melons, but all the <i>cucurbitaceæ</i> were treated in this manner, when it -was wished to communicate to them a milder flavour.<a name="anc_ix_158" id="anc_ix_158"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_158"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_158]</span></a></p> - -<p>In pointing out these processes in use among the ancient -horticulturists, we do not at all pledge ourselves for their efficacy. -However, it must be acknowledged that they exhibit a singularly -praiseworthy emulation, which has perhaps prepared the way for the -wonders with which our modern gardeners have made us familiar.</p> - -<p>Independently of its exquisite flavour, the melon passed, among the -Greeks and Romans, as being very beneficial to the stomach and -head.<a name="anc_ix_159" id="anc_ix_159"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_159"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_159]</span></a> It is possible that they may have gone a little too far; -but then man is so ready to give imaginary qualities to what he loves, -that we cannot wonder at their praises of this delicious plant, which we -generally eat in the most simple manner, without any other seasoning -than a little sugar, sometimes with salt and pepper. Not so with the -Romans; their practised palates required a more exquisite combination; -they, therefore, added to it a sharp savoury sauce—a compound of -pepper, pennyroyal, honey, or sun-made wine, garum, vinegar, and -sylphium.<a name="anc_ix_160" id="anc_ix_160"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_160"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_160]</span></a></p> - -<p>Melons were not known in central or northern Europe until the reign of -Charles VIII., King of France, who brought them from Italy.<a name="anc_ix_161" id="anc_ix_161"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_161"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_161]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_079" id="page_079"></a>{79}</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>RADISH.</h3> - -<p>Amongst other singularities which abound in the Talmud, the curious can -but have remarked the following:</p> - -<p>Judea formerly produced kitchen garden plants so large, that a fox -bethought himself to hollow a radish, and make it his residence. After -he had removed, this new kind of lair was discovered; it was put into a -scale, and found to weigh nearly one hundred pounds.<a name="anc_ix_162" id="anc_ix_162"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_162"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_162]</span></a></p> - -<p>It is a pity that no one preserved the seed of so remarkable a -vegetable, which no doubt was only to be found in Judea.</p> - -<p>The Greeks had very fine radishes, but they were not of such a -surprising size. They procured them from the territory of -Mantinea.<a name="anc_ix_163" id="anc_ix_163"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_163"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_163]</span></a> Mount Algidea also furnished the Romans with an -excellent kind,<a name="anc_ix_164" id="anc_ix_164"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_164"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_164]</span></a> but which they esteemed less highly than those -of Nursia,<a name="anc_ix_165" id="anc_ix_165"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_165"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_165]</span></a> in the country of the Sabines. These latter cost -about threepence a pound in the time of Pliny; they were sold for double -that sum when the crop was not abundant.<a name="anc_ix_166" id="anc_ix_166"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_166"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_166]</span></a></p> - -<p>Writers of antiquity notice three distinct kinds of radishes: the large, -short, and thick; the round; and the wild.<a name="anc_ix_167" id="anc_ix_167"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_167"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_167]</span></a> They fancied that, at -the end of three years, the seed of this plant produced very good -cabbages,<a name="anc_ix_168" id="anc_ix_168"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_168"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_168]</span></a> which must have been rather vexatious, at times, to -honest gardeners who might have preferred radishes.</p> - -<p>In times of popular tumult this root was often transformed into an -ignominious projectile, with which the mob pursued persons whose -political opinions rendered them obnoxious to <i>the majority</i>, as we -might say in the present day.<a name="anc_ix_169" id="anc_ix_169"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_169"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_169]</span></a> As soon as calm was -re-established, the insulting vegetable was placed in the pot to boil, -and afterwards eaten with oil and a little vinegar.<a name="anc_ix_170" id="anc_ix_170"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_170"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_170]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Romans preserved radishes very well, by covering them with a paste -composed of honey, vinegar, and salt.<a name="anc_ix_171" id="anc_ix_171"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_171"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_171]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_080" id="page_080"></a>{80}</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>HORSE-RADISH.</h3> - -<p>“By Apollo!” cried, mournfully, a philanthropic and gastronomic Greek, -“one must be completely mad to buy horse-radish, when fish can be found -in the market.”<a name="anc_ix_172" id="anc_ix_172"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_172"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_172]</span></a> So thought the philosopher Amphis. And at Rome, -as in Greece, this reviled and despised root hardly found a place on the -table of the poor, when anything else could be had.</p> - -<p>There were several serious causes for this fatal proscription: this -plant was found to be bitter, stringy, and of difficult -digestion;<a name="anc_ix_173" id="anc_ix_173"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_173"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_173]</span></a> it was looked upon as a very common food;<a name="anc_ix_174" id="anc_ix_174"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_174"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_174]</span></a> the -lowest class alone dared to feed upon it; the opulent were therefore -compelled to exclude it from the number of their dishes. And again, -certain strange customs, authorised by the Roman law, contributed -greatly to make the horse-radish an object of horror and detestation; so -true it is, that the manner in which objects are associated with our -ideas determines almost invariably our love or hatred for them.</p> - -<p>Nevertheless, all the species of this vegetable (and there were five in -number, distinctly mentioned by Theophrastus<a name="anc_ix_175" id="anc_ix_175"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_175"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_175]</span></a>) ought not to have -been condemned so severely. The Corinthian, the Leiothasian, the -Cleonian, the Amorean, and the Bœotian, were so many distinct and -separate species, each of which possessed its own peculiar property and -quality.<a name="anc_ix_176" id="anc_ix_176"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_176"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_176]</span></a> The last-named, with its large and silky leaves, was -tender, and had a sweet, agreeable taste.<a name="anc_ix_177" id="anc_ix_177"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_177"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_177]</span></a> The others, not so -good, perhaps, were wholesome and nourishing, and their natural -bitterness never failed to disappear, when the seeds were allowed to -soak for some time in sweet or raisin wine before they were -sown.<a name="anc_ix_178" id="anc_ix_178"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_178"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_178]</span></a></p> - -<p>Shall we now mention the properties the horse-radish possessed, and -which ought to have been sufficient to establish its reputation, if -prejudice were not both deaf and blind?</p> - -<p>Take, fasting, some pieces of this beneficent and despised root, and the -most inveterate poisons will be changed for you into inoffensive -drinks.<a name="anc_ix_179" id="anc_ix_179"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_179"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_179]</span></a></p> - -<p>Would you have the power to handle and play with those dangerous -reptiles whose active venom causes a speedy and sure death? Wash your -hands in the juice of horse-radish.<a name="anc_ix_180" id="anc_ix_180"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_180"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_180]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_081" id="page_081"></a>{81}</span></p> - -<p>Do you seek an efficacious remedy for the numerous evils which besiege -us unceasingly? Take horse-radish,—nothing but horse-radish.<a name="anc_ix_181" id="anc_ix_181"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_181"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_181]</span></a></p> - -<p>It is true that this incomparable root attacks the enamel of the teeth, -and, indeed, soon spoils them;<a name="anc_ix_182" id="anc_ix_182"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_182"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_182]</span></a> but why should we be so -particular when so many marvellous properties are in question?</p> - -<p>As to its culinary preparation, Apicius recommends us to serve it mixed -with pepper and garum.<a name="anc_ix_183" id="anc_ix_183"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_183"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_183]</span></a></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>GARLIC.</h3> - -<p>Garlic was known in the most remote ages. It was a god in Egypt.<a name="anc_ix_184" id="anc_ix_184"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_184"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_184]</span></a> -The Greeks held it in horror. It was part of their military food—hence -came the proverb, “Eat neither garlic nor beans;” that is to say, -abstain from war and law.<a name="anc_ix_185" id="anc_ix_185"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_185"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_185]</span></a> There was a belief that this plant -excited the courage of warriors; therefore, it was given to cocks to -incite them to fight. The Greek and Roman sailors made as great a use of -it as the soldiers,<a name="anc_ix_186" id="anc_ix_186"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_186"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_186]</span></a> and an ample provision was always made when -they set out on any maritime expedition.<a name="anc_ix_187" id="anc_ix_187"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_187"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_187]</span></a> It was a prevailing -opinion that the effects of foul air were neutralized by garlic; and it -was, no doubt, this idea which made reapers and peasants use it so -lavishly.<a name="anc_ix_188" id="anc_ix_188"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_188"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_188]</span></a></p> - -<p>However, the taste for this vegetable was not always confined to the -people, in the southern countries of Europe; it gained, at times, the -high regions of the court. It is reported that, in 1368, Alphonso, King -of Castile, who had an extreme repugnance to garlic, instituted an order -of knighthood; and one of the statutes was, that any knight who had -eaten of this plant, could not appear before the sovereign for at least -one month.<a name="anc_ix_189" id="anc_ix_189"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_189"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_189]</span></a></p> - -<p>The priests of Cybele interdicted the entry of the temple of this -goddess to persons who had made use of garlic. Stilphon, troubling -himself very little about this interdiction, fell asleep on the steps of -the altar. The mother of the gods appeared to him in his dream, and -reproached him with the little respect his breath disclosed for her. “If -you wish me to abstain from garlic,” replied Stilphon, “give me -something else to eat.”<a name="anc_ix_190" id="anc_ix_190"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_190"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_190]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_082" id="page_082"></a>{82}</span></p> - -<p>The ancients, great lovers of the marvellous, believed that this -despised vegetable possessed a sovereign virtue against the greater -number of diseases,<a name="anc_ix_191" id="anc_ix_191"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_191"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_191]</span></a> and that it was easy to deprive it of its -penetrating odour by sowing and gathering it when the moon was below the -horizon.<a name="anc_ix_192" id="anc_ix_192"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_192"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_192]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Greek and Roman cooks used it but very seldom, and it was only -employed as a second or third-rate ingredient in some preparations of -Apicius which we shall hereafter mention.</p> - -<p>“Garlic is called the physic of the peasantry, especially in warm -countries, where it is eaten before going to work, in order to guarantee -them from the pernicious effects of foul air. It would be too long were -we to relate all that has been written in favour of this vegetable; let -it suffice to say that it is employed in numerous pharmaceutical -preparations, and among others in vinegar, celebrated by the name of -<i>aromatic</i> vinegar.”—<span class="smcap">Bosc.</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>ESCHALOTS.</h3> - -<p>Alexander the Great found the eschalot in Phœnicia, and introduced it -into Greece. Its Latin name, <i>Ascalonica</i>, indicates the place of its -origin, Ascalon, a city of Idumea.<a name="anc_ix_193" id="anc_ix_193"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_193"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_193]</span></a> Its affinity with garlic set -the ancients against its culinary qualities, and this useful plant, too -much neglected, only obtained credit in modern times.</p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>PARSLEY.</h3> - -<p>Hercules, the conqueror of the Nemæan lion, crowned himself with -parsley; a rather modest adornment for so great a hero, when others, for -exploits much less worthy, were decked with laurels. A similar crown -became, subsequently, the prize of the Nemæan<a name="anc_ix_194" id="anc_ix_194"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_194"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_194]</span></a> and Isthmian -Games.<a name="anc_ix_195" id="anc_ix_195"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_195"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_195]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_083" id="page_083"></a>{83}</span></p> - -<p>Anacreon, that amiable and frivolous poet, who consecrated all his -moments to pleasure, celebrates parsley as the emblem of joy and -festivity;<a name="anc_ix_196" id="anc_ix_196"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_196"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_196]</span></a> and Horace, a philosophic sensualist of the same -stamp, commanded his banquetting hall to be ornamented with roses and -parsley.<a name="anc_ix_197" id="anc_ix_197"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_197"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_197]</span></a></p> - -<p>Perhaps it was thought that the strong, penetrating odour of parsley -possessed the property of exciting the brain to agreeable imaginations; -if so, it explains the fact of its being worn by guests, placed round -their heads.</p> - -<p>Fable has made it the food of Juno’s coursers.<a name="anc_ix_198" id="anc_ix_198"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_198"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_198]</span></a> In battle, the -warriors of Homer fed their chargers with it;<a name="anc_ix_199" id="anc_ix_199"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_199"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_199]</span></a> and Melancholy, -taking it for the symbol of mourning, admitted it at the dismal repasts -of obsequies.<a name="anc_ix_200" id="anc_ix_200"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_200"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_200]</span></a></p> - -<p>Let us seek to discover in this plant qualities less poetic and less -brilliant, but, assuredly, more real and positive. In the first place:—</p> - -<p>Wash some parsley with the roots adhering; dry it well in the sun; boil -it in water, and leave it awhile on one side; then put into a saucepan -some garlic and leeks, which must boil together a long time, and very -slowly, until reduced to two-thirds—that done, pound some pepper, mix -it with gravy and a little honey, strain the water in which the parsley -was boiled, and pour it over the parsley and the whole of the other -ingredients. Put the stewpan once more on the fire, and serve.<a name="anc_ix_201" id="anc_ix_201"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_201"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_201]</span></a></p> - -<p>The following recipe is much less complicated and more expeditious:—</p> - -<p>Boil the parsley in water, with nitre; press out all the water; cut it -very fine; then mix, with care, some pepper, alisander, marjoram and -onions; add some wine, gravy, and oil; stew the whole, with the parsley, -in an earthen pot or stewpan.<a name="anc_ix_202" id="anc_ix_202"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_202"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_202]</span></a></p> - -<p>If the illustrious pupil of Chiron, the warlike Achilles, had known the -culinary properties of parsley as well as he knew its medicinal virtues, -he no doubt would have been less prodigal with it for his -horses;<a name="anc_ix_203" id="anc_ix_203"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_203"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_203]</span></a> and the conquerors of Troy would have comforted -themselves, during the tediousness of a long siege, by cooking this -aromatic plant, and enjoying a new dish.</p> - -<p>Parsley, according to some writers, was of Egyptian origin; but it is -not known who brought it into Sardinia, where it was found by the -Carthaginians, who afterwards made it known to the inhabitants of -Marseilles.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_084" id="page_084"></a>{84}</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>CHERVIL.</h3> - -<p>This plant, which Columella has described,<a name="anc_ix_204" id="anc_ix_204"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_204"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_204]</span></a> furnished a relishing -dish, prepared with gravy, oil, and wine; or served with fried -fish.<a name="anc_ix_205" id="anc_ix_205"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_205"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_205]</span></a> At the present day it is highly commendable in salad.</p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>WATER-CRESSES.</h3> - -<p>The water-cress, the sight alone of which made the learned Scaliger -shudder with terror, is supposed to be a native of Crete. It was, -doubtless, the cresses of Alen (Suabia), which are cultivated in our -gardens, and not those commonly found in brooks and springs.</p> - -<p>The Persians were in the habit of eating them with bread:<a name="anc_ix_206" id="anc_ix_206"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_206"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_206]</span></a> they -made, in this manner, so delicious a meal, that the splendour of a -Syracusan table would not have tempted them.<a name="anc_ix_207" id="anc_ix_207"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_207"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_207]</span></a> This is one of -those examples of sobriety which may be admired, but are seldom -followed.</p> - -<p>Plutarch did not share the opinion of the Persians, but scornfully -ranked cresses amongst the lowest aliments of the people.<a name="anc_ix_208" id="anc_ix_208"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_208"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_208]</span></a> -Nevertheless, the Romans, as well as the Greeks, granted to this -cruciform plant a host of beneficent qualities, and among others, a -singularly refreshing property. Refreshing! to say the truth, it -refreshes much in the same way that mustard and pepper do.<a name="anc_ix_209" id="anc_ix_209"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_209"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_209]</span></a> -Boiled in goat’s milk, it cured thoracic affections;<a name="anc_ix_210" id="anc_ix_210"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_210"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_210]</span></a> introduced -into the ears, it relieved the toothache:<a name="anc_ix_211" id="anc_ix_211"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_211"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_211]</span></a> and finally, persons -who made it their habitual food found their wits sharpened and their -intelligence more active and ingenious.<a name="anc_ix_212" id="anc_ix_212"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_212"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_212]</span></a></p> - -<p>However, it does not appear that cresses ever enjoyed, in Rome or -Athens, a culinary vogue equal to their officinal reputation; it was -said that its acrid taste twisted the nose,<a name="anc_ix_213" id="anc_ix_213"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_213"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_213]</span></a> and this coarse jest -naturally did it harm to a certain degree with the rich and delicate. Be -that as it may, those who dared, ate it dressed in the following -manner:—<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_085" id="page_085"></a>{85}</span></p> - -<p>With garum, or oil and vinegar;<a name="anc_ix_214" id="anc_ix_214"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_214"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_214]</span></a> or with pepper, cummin-seed, and -lentiscus (leaves of the mastic-tree).<a name="anc_ix_215" id="anc_ix_215"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_215"><span class="fnanchor">[IX_215]</span></a></p> - -<p>The water-cress <i>par excellence</i> grows in springs, rivulets, and -ditches, in Europe. Its piquant taste is rather agreeable; it is eaten -as a salad or seasoning, with poultry and other roasted meat. This plant -increases the appetite, fortifies the stomach, and possesses -anti-scorbutic qualities.</p> - -<p>A great consumption is made of it in certain countries. It is cultivated -in running waters, either in gardens, or sown in the shade, where it is -watered abundantly. The less it sees the sun, the softer it is.—<span class="smcap">Bosc.</span><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_086" id="page_086"></a>{86}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="X" id="X"></a>X.<br /><br /> -PLANTS USED IN SEASONING.</h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">We</span> will point out, as briefly as possible, those plants mostly used in -the kitchens of the ancients to heighten the flavour of their dishes, or -to give them a particular taste, according as the dish or fancy might -require it. In them especially lies the secret of those <i>irritamenta -gulæ</i>, or excitements of the palate, which Apicius brought so much into -fashion.</p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>POPPY.</h3> - -<p>The seed of this plant was offered, fried, at the beginning of the -second course, and eaten with honey.<a name="anc_x_1" id="anc_x_1"></a><a href="#footnote-x_1"><span class="fnanchor">[X_1]</span></a> Sometimes it was sprinkled on -the crust of a kind of household bread, covered with white of eggs.<a name="anc_x_2" id="anc_x_2"></a><a href="#footnote-x_2"><span class="fnanchor">[X_2]</span></a> -Some of it was also put into the panada, or pap, intended for -children<a name="anc_x_3" id="anc_x_3"></a><a href="#footnote-x_3"><span class="fnanchor">[X_3]</span></a>—perhaps to make them sleep the sooner.</p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>SESAME.</h3> - -<p>This seed was used in nearly the same manner as the poppy, and it -occupied a distinguished rank among the numerous dainties served at -dessert.<a name="anc_x_4" id="anc_x_4"></a><a href="#footnote-x_4"><span class="fnanchor">[X_4]</span></a> Certain round and light cakes were covered with this -seed.<a name="anc_x_5" id="anc_x_5"></a><a href="#footnote-x_5"><span class="fnanchor">[X_5]</span></a> The Romans brought sesame from Egypt.<a name="anc_x_6" id="anc_x_6"></a><a href="#footnote-x_6"><span class="fnanchor">[X_6]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_087" id="page_087"></a>{87}</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>SOW-THISTLE.</h3> - -<p>This plant furnished a kind of milk, which was sometimes drunk: -sometimes various kinds of meat were seasoned with it.<a name="anc_x_7" id="anc_x_7"></a><a href="#footnote-x_7"><span class="fnanchor">[X_7]</span></a> It was -afterwards given up to rabbits, and there is every probability that they -will retain undisputed possession of it.</p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>ORACH.</h3> - -<p>Few vegetables have been more exposed to injurious accusations. -Pythagoras reproaches it with causing a livid paleness, dropsy, and the -scrofula, in those persons who eat it.<a name="anc_x_8" id="anc_x_8"></a><a href="#footnote-x_8"><span class="fnanchor">[X_8]</span></a> Nevertheless, a greedy -curiosity introduced it into the catalogue of culinary preparations, and -the guests of Apicius tasted more than once the fatal orach without -knowing its pernicious properties. History does not say that they -suffered any pernicious effects from it.</p> - -<p>This plant is also eaten like spinach, and mixed with sorrel to soften -its acidity.—<span class="smcap">Bosc.</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>ROCKET.</h3> - -<p>Persons about to undergo the punishment of the whip were recommended to -swallow a cup of wine, in which rocket had been steeped. It was asserted -that this draught rendered pain supportable.<a name="anc_x_9" id="anc_x_9"></a><a href="#footnote-x_9"><span class="fnanchor">[X_9]</span></a> And again, that this -plant, taken with honey, removed the freckles which sometimes appear on -the face.<a name="anc_x_10" id="anc_x_10"></a><a href="#footnote-x_10"><span class="fnanchor">[X_10]</span></a></p> - -<p>Whatever may be the degree of credence accorded to these two recipes, -this vegetable enjoyed some reputation among the ancients, who mixed the -wild and the garden rocket together, so as to temper the heat of the one -by the coldness of the other.<a name="anc_x_11" id="anc_x_11"></a><a href="#footnote-x_11"><span class="fnanchor">[X_11]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_088" id="page_088"></a>{88}</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>FENNEL.</h3> - -<p>It was employed but seldom in the preparation of dishes or pastry; but -it was believed that the juice of its stalk had the property of -restoring or strengthening the sight.<a name="anc_x_12" id="anc_x_12"></a><a href="#footnote-x_12"><span class="fnanchor">[X_12]</span></a></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>DILL.</h3> - -<p>This plant, which, according to the ancients, weakened the eyes,<a name="anc_x_13" id="anc_x_13"></a><a href="#footnote-x_13"><span class="fnanchor">[X_13]</span></a> -was much renowned for its exquisite odour,<a name="anc_x_14" id="anc_x_14"></a><a href="#footnote-x_14"><span class="fnanchor">[X_14]</span></a> and its stomachic -qualities.<a name="anc_x_15" id="anc_x_15"></a><a href="#footnote-x_15"><span class="fnanchor">[X_15]</span></a> A much-admired perfume<a name="anc_x_16" id="anc_x_16"></a><a href="#footnote-x_16"><span class="fnanchor">[X_16]</span></a> was made from it; it -produced an agreeable sort of wine or liqueur;<a name="anc_x_17" id="anc_x_17"></a><a href="#footnote-x_17"><span class="fnanchor">[X_17]</span></a> and a small number -of choice dishes, for the enjoyment of connoisseurs, owed to it the -reputation they had acquired.<a name="anc_x_18" id="anc_x_18"></a><a href="#footnote-x_18"><span class="fnanchor">[X_18]</span></a></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>ANISE-SEED.</h3> - -<p>The production of an umbelliferous plant, which grows wild in Egypt, in -Syria, and other eastern countries. Pliny recommends it to be taken in -the morning, with honey and myrrh in wine:<a name="anc_x_19" id="anc_x_19"></a><a href="#footnote-x_19"><span class="fnanchor">[X_19]</span></a> and Pythagoras -attributes to it eminent Hygeian properties, whether eaten raw or -cooked.<a name="anc_x_20" id="anc_x_20"></a><a href="#footnote-x_20"><span class="fnanchor">[X_20]</span></a></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>HYSSOP.</h3> - -<p>The Greeks, the Romans—and before them, the nations of the -east<a name="anc_x_21" id="anc_x_21"></a><a href="#footnote-x_21"><span class="fnanchor">[X_21]</span></a>—believed that hyssop renews and purifies the blood. This -plant, mixed with an equal quantity of salt, formed a remedy much -extolled by Columella.<a name="anc_x_22" id="anc_x_22"></a><a href="#footnote-x_22"><span class="fnanchor">[X_22]</span></a> It was crushed with oil to make a liniment, -used as a<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_089" id="page_089"></a>{89}</span> remedy for cutaneous eruptions.<a name="anc_x_23" id="anc_x_23"></a><a href="#footnote-x_23"><span class="fnanchor">[X_23]</span></a> An excellent liqueur -was obtained from it, known under the name of hyssop wine;<a name="anc_x_24" id="anc_x_24"></a><a href="#footnote-x_24"><span class="fnanchor">[X_24]</span></a> and -lastly, this plant was used in a number of dishes, which it rendered -more wholesome and refreshing.</p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>WILD MARJORAM.</h3> - -<p>Nearly the same qualities were attributed to this herb as to -hyssop;<a name="anc_x_25" id="anc_x_25"></a><a href="#footnote-x_25"><span class="fnanchor">[X_25]</span></a> and it was employed still more frequently in the -composition of the most delicate condiments. Dioscorides<a name="anc_x_26" id="anc_x_26"></a><a href="#footnote-x_26"><span class="fnanchor">[X_26]</span></a> and -Cato<a name="anc_x_27" id="anc_x_27"></a><a href="#footnote-x_27"><span class="fnanchor">[X_27]</span></a> make copious remarks on a much-esteemed liqueur, which they -called wild marjoram wine.</p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>SAVORY.</h3> - -<p>An odoriferous herb, which entered into the seasoning of nearly every -dish.<a name="anc_x_28" id="anc_x_28"></a><a href="#footnote-x_28"><span class="fnanchor">[X_28]</span></a></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>THYME.</h3> - -<p>Besides the various culinary purposes for which the ancients used this -plant, they, like ourselves, extracted from thyme aromatic -liqueurs,<a name="anc_x_29" id="anc_x_29"></a><a href="#footnote-x_29"><span class="fnanchor">[X_29]</span></a> the preparation of which will be given in another part -of this work.</p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>WILD THYME.</h3> - -<p>We find it rarely spoken of by magiric writers. Pliny believes it to be -most efficacious against the bite of serpents.<a name="anc_x_30" id="anc_x_30"></a><a href="#footnote-x_30"><span class="fnanchor">[X_30]</span></a></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>SWEET MARJORAM.<a name="anc_x_31" id="anc_x_31"></a><a href="#footnote-x_31"><span class="fnanchor">[X_31]</span></a></h3> - -<p>Was much employed in the Isle of Cyprus; very little, if at all, in -Rome, where they knew little more of sweet marjoram than the oil -extracted from it.<a name="anc_x_32" id="anc_x_32"></a><a href="#footnote-x_32"><span class="fnanchor">[X_32]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_090" id="page_090"></a>{90}</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>PENNYROYAL.</h3> - -<p>The ancients entwined their wine caps with pennyroyal,<a name="anc_x_33" id="anc_x_33"></a><a href="#footnote-x_33"><span class="fnanchor">[X_33]</span></a> and made -crowns of it, which were placed on their heads during their repasts, by -the aid of which they hoped to escape the troublesome consequences of -too copious libations.<a name="anc_x_34" id="anc_x_34"></a><a href="#footnote-x_34"><span class="fnanchor">[X_34]</span></a> On leaving the table, a small quantity of -this plant was taken, to facilitate digestion.<a name="anc_x_35" id="anc_x_35"></a><a href="#footnote-x_35"><span class="fnanchor">[X_35]</span></a></p> - -<p>Pennyroyal occupied, also, an important place in high gastronomic -combinations.</p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>RUE.</h3> - -<p>The territory of Myra, a city of Lycia, produced excellent rue.<a name="anc_x_36" id="anc_x_36"></a><a href="#footnote-x_36"><span class="fnanchor">[X_36]</span></a> -Mithridates looked upon this vegetable as a powerful -counter-poison;<a name="anc_x_37" id="anc_x_37"></a><a href="#footnote-x_37"><span class="fnanchor">[X_37]</span></a> and the inhabitants of Heraclea, suspicious—and -with reason—of the villany of their tyrant, Clearchus, never stirred -from their dwellings without having previously eaten plentifully of -rue.<a name="anc_x_38" id="anc_x_38"></a><a href="#footnote-x_38"><span class="fnanchor">[X_38]</span></a> This plant cured also the ear-ache;<a name="anc_x_39" id="anc_x_39"></a><a href="#footnote-x_39"><span class="fnanchor">[X_39]</span></a> and to all these -advantages, it joined that of being welcomed with honour on all festive -occasions.<a name="anc_x_40" id="anc_x_40"></a><a href="#footnote-x_40"><span class="fnanchor">[X_40]</span></a></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>MINT.</h3> - -<p>There was formerly—no matter where or when—a beautiful young girl, who -was changed into this plant through the jealous vengeance of -Proserpine.<a name="anc_x_41" id="anc_x_41"></a><a href="#footnote-x_41"><span class="fnanchor">[X_41]</span></a> Thus transformed, she excited the appetite of the -guests, and awakened their slumbering gaiety.<a name="anc_x_42" id="anc_x_42"></a><a href="#footnote-x_42"><span class="fnanchor">[X_42]</span></a> Mint prevented milk -from curdling, even when rennet was put into it.<a name="anc_x_43" id="anc_x_43"></a><a href="#footnote-x_43"><span class="fnanchor">[X_43]</span></a></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>SPANISH CAMOMILE.</h3> - -<p>The Romans sometimes mixed with their drink the burning root of the -Spanish camomile;<a name="anc_x_44" id="anc_x_44"></a><a href="#footnote-x_44"><span class="fnanchor">[X_44]</span></a> and we are astonished at meeting with the name -of this formidable plant among the ingredients of some of their dishes.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_091" id="page_091"></a>{91}</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>CUMMIN.</h3> - -<p>The condiments prepared with cummin had a very great reputation; and -culinary authors frequently mention this vegetable, which the Greeks and -Romans invariably used.<a name="anc_x_45" id="anc_x_45"></a><a href="#footnote-x_45"><span class="fnanchor">[X_45]</span></a></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>ALISANDER.</h3> - -<p>The same might be said of alisander, which, in the time of Pliny, passed -as an universal remedy,<a name="anc_x_46" id="anc_x_46"></a><a href="#footnote-x_46"><span class="fnanchor">[X_46]</span></a> and which Apicius honours by naming in -many of his dishes.</p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>CAPERS.</h3> - -<p>Young buds of the caper tree, a shrub—native of Asia, where the species -are in great varieties. It was but little thought of at the tables of -the higher classes, and therefore was left to the people.<a name="anc_x_47" id="anc_x_47"></a><a href="#footnote-x_47"><span class="fnanchor">[X_47]</span></a></p> - -<p>The buds of the caper are gathered, and thrown into barrels filled with -vinegar, to which a little salt is added; then, by means of several -large sieves made of a copper plate, rather hollow, and pierced with -holes of different sizes, the different qualities are separated, and -classed under different numbers. The vinegar is renewed, and the capers -are replaced in the barrel, ready for exportation.</p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>ASAFŒTIDA.</h3> - -<p>This plant, which we have excluded from our kitchens, and whose nauseous -smell is far from exciting the appetite, reigned almost as the chief -ingredient in the seasoning of the ancients. Perhaps they cultivated a -kind which in no way resembled that of modern times. If it<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_092" id="page_092"></a>{92}</span> were the -same, how are we to explain the extreme partiality which Apicius shows -for it? and which he says must be dissolved in luke-warm water, and -afterwards served with vinegar and garum.<a name="anc_x_48" id="anc_x_48"></a><a href="#footnote-x_48"><span class="fnanchor">[X_48]</span></a></p> - -<p>It is certain that the resin drawn by incision from the root of this -plant is still much esteemed by the inhabitants of Persia and of India; -they chew it constantly, finding the odour and taste exquisite.</p> - -<p>“The neck of the root is cleared of the earth it is covered with, and -replaced by a handful of herbs. At the end of forty days the summit of -the root is out transversely; then a small bundle of herbs is laid over, -so as not to touch it. A whitish liquor exudes from the cut, and every -other day it is gathered; the cut is renewed until the root is quite -exhausted. The result of this crop is laid on leaves, and dried in the -sun.”—<span class="smcap">Bosc.</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>SUMACH.</h3> - -<p>The Romans made use of the seed to flavour several kinds of -dishes.<a name="anc_x_49" id="anc_x_49"></a><a href="#footnote-x_49"><span class="fnanchor">[X_49]</span></a></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>GINGER.</h3> - -<p>This root was known at Rome under the Emperors, and many persons have -confounded ginger with pepper, although they in no way resemble each -other. Pliny refutes this error, and represents it as a native of -Arabia.<a name="anc_x_50" id="anc_x_50"></a><a href="#footnote-x_50"><span class="fnanchor">[X_50]</span></a> It was used with other condiments.<a name="anc_x_51" id="anc_x_51"></a><a href="#footnote-x_51"><span class="fnanchor">[X_51]</span></a></p> - -<p>“The Indians grate this root in their broth or <i>ragoût</i>; they make a -paste which they believe is good against the scurvy. The inhabitants of -Madagascar eat it green, in salad, cut in small pieces, and mixed with -other herbs, which they season with salt, oil, and vinegar. In other -places ginger is taken infused as a drink; it fortifies the chest, and -awakens the appetite. It is preserved in sugar after it has been -stripped of its bark, and soaked in vinegar. Delicious preserves are -made of it with much perfume, and which keep a very long -time.”—<span class="smcap">Dutour.</span><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_093" id="page_093"></a>{93}</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>WORMWOOD.</h3> - -<p>The Egyptians had a great respect for the wormwood of Taposiris,—no -doubt on account of the medicinal properties which physicians attributed -to it.</p> - -<p>Heliogabalus often regaled the populace with wormwood wine,<a name="anc_x_52" id="anc_x_52"></a><a href="#footnote-x_52"><span class="fnanchor">[X_52]</span></a> and -the Romans gave it to the victorious charioteers. Pliny thinks this -plant so salutary that nothing more precious could have been presented -to them.<a name="anc_x_53" id="anc_x_53"></a><a href="#footnote-x_53"><span class="fnanchor">[X_53]</span></a> This explanation appears to have had but little -plausibility, and it has been more rationally supposed that this liquor -prevented or counteracted any giddiness they might feel. “You can cure -yourself of dizziness,” says Strabo, “with the bitter leaf of -wormwood.”<a name="anc_x_54" id="anc_x_54"></a><a href="#footnote-x_54"><span class="fnanchor">[X_54]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Roman wormwood wine was composed in the following manner:</p> - -<p>They bruised one ounce of this vegetable, and mixed it with three -scruples of gum, as much spikenard, six of balm, and three scruples of -saffron; to which was added eighteen <i>setiers</i>, or 180 gallons English, -of old wine. This mixture was left to stand some time, but was not -heated or subjected to any other process.<a name="anc_x_55" id="anc_x_55"></a><a href="#footnote-x_55"><span class="fnanchor">[X_55]</span></a></p> - -<p>In pharmacy, wine is made of wormwood; also a syrup, a preserve, an -extract, oil by infusion, an essential oil, and wormwood salt. It is -supposed that several brewers on the Continent substitute the leaves and -flowers of this plant for hops, in the manufacture of beer. It is, -perhaps, a calumny, and we only repeat it in a whisper.</p> - -<p>“The leaves of wormwood are used in salad to make it more digestible and -heighten the flavour. They are preserved in vinegar, and to season -dishes. Lastly, they are considered by some persons as a remedy, and the -frequent use of them to be indispensable for the preservation of their -existence.”—<span class="smcap">Bosc.</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<p>In concluding this chapter, it will be necessary to anticipate a -question which naturally presents itself: did the Romans know the art of -forcing fruits, and of procuring, at one season, the various vegetables -or plants which belong to another period of the year?</p> - -<p>Some verses from Martial will leave no doubt on the subject:—</p> - -<p>“Whoever has seen the orchards of the King of Corcyrus (Alcinous),<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_094" id="page_094"></a>{94}</span> dear -Entellus, must have preferred thy rural habitation. Thou knowest how to -preserve from the rigours of winter the purple grapes of thy vine bower, -and prevent the cold frost from devouring the gifts of Bacchus. Thy -grapes live enclosed under a transparent crystal, which covers without -concealing them.</p> - -<p>“What can avaricious nature refuse to the industry of man? Sterile -winter is constrained to give up the fruits of autumn.”<a name="anc_x_56" id="anc_x_56"></a><a href="#footnote-x_56"><span class="fnanchor">[X_56]</span></a></p> - -<p>This curious passage gives us to understand that the Romans had -hot-houses and, no doubt, glass bells in their orchards and gardens, to -bring sooner to maturity some of those productions of the earth which, -by their delicate flavour and perfume, raised the insatiable desires of -a people, decidedly the greatest epicureans ever known in the history of -gastronomy to the present day.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_095" id="page_095"></a>{95}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="XI" id="XI"></a>XI.<br /><br /> -FRUITS.</h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">When</span> the Creator placed the first man in the Garden of Eden, he -commanded him to nourish himself with the fruit it contained;<a name="anc_xi_1" id="anc_xi_1"></a><a href="#footnote-xi_1"><span class="fnanchor">[XI_1]</span></a> and, -from that epoch, the most ancient which the sacred work records, this -kind of aliment is incessantly mentioned in the history of all nations, -and at every period of their history.</p> - -<p>The great Hebrew legislator seems to have considered fruit trees worthy -of his especial care, for he forbad the Jews to cut them down, even on -their enemies’ lands;<a name="anc_xi_2" id="anc_xi_2"></a><a href="#footnote-xi_2"><span class="fnanchor">[XI_2]</span></a> and, in order to teach his people how to -preserve them in all their vigour, he declares the fruits of the first -three years impure, and consecrates to the Lord those of the -fourth.<a name="anc_xi_3" id="anc_xi_3"></a><a href="#footnote-xi_3"><span class="fnanchor">[XI_3]</span></a> He even goes further; he exempts from military service any -one who has planted a vineyard, and all fruit trees conferred the same -privilege until the first vintage.<a name="anc_xi_4" id="anc_xi_4"></a><a href="#footnote-xi_4"><span class="fnanchor">[XI_4]</span></a></p> - -<p>Heathen nations also understood the importance of this branch of -agriculture, and invented protective divinities—such as Pomona,<a name="anc_xi_5" id="anc_xi_5"></a><a href="#footnote-xi_5"><span class="fnanchor">[XI_5]</span></a> -Vertumnus,<a name="anc_xi_6" id="anc_xi_6"></a><a href="#footnote-xi_6"><span class="fnanchor">[XI_6]</span></a> Priapus<a name="anc_xi_7" id="anc_xi_7"></a><a href="#footnote-xi_7"><span class="fnanchor">[XI_7]</span></a>—whose sole care consisted in protecting -orchards from the inclemency of the seasons, and dispelling insects and -robbers, who would damage and plunder the crops.</p> - -<p>Each kind had, moreover, a benevolent patron, who could not honestly -refuse to be useful to it: thus the olive tree grew under the auspices -of Minerva;<a name="anc_xi_8" id="anc_xi_8"></a><a href="#footnote-xi_8"><span class="fnanchor">[XI_8]</span></a> the Muses cherished the palm tree;<a name="anc_xi_9" id="anc_xi_9"></a><a href="#footnote-xi_9"><span class="fnanchor">[XI_9]</span></a> the pine and -its cone were consecrated to the great Cybele;<a name="anc_xi_10" id="anc_xi_10"></a><a href="#footnote-xi_10"><span class="fnanchor">[XI_10]</span></a> Bacchus -complacently ripened the perfumed pulp of the fig<a name="anc_xi_11" id="anc_xi_11"></a><a href="#footnote-xi_11"><span class="fnanchor">[XI_11]</span></a> and the rosy -grape,<a name="anc_xi_12" id="anc_xi_12"></a><a href="#footnote-xi_12"><span class="fnanchor">[XI_12]</span></a> which placed him on a level with the gods.</p> - -<p>Among the Greeks, fruits appeared on table at the second course;<a name="anc_xi_13" id="anc_xi_13"></a><a href="#footnote-xi_13"><span class="fnanchor">[XI_13]</span></a> -and were eaten either cooked, raw, or in the form of preserves.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_096" id="page_096"></a>{96}</span></p> - -<p>The Romans sometimes breakfasted on a small quantity of dried -fruits;<a name="anc_xi_14" id="anc_xi_14"></a><a href="#footnote-xi_14"><span class="fnanchor">[XI_14]</span></a> but the third course of their <i>cœna</i>, or principal -repast, offered an incredible profusion of the productions of their own -orchards, and of those of three parts of the world.<a name="anc_xi_15" id="anc_xi_15"></a><a href="#footnote-xi_15"><span class="fnanchor">[XI_15]</span></a></p> - -<p>Rich patricians, after they had exhausted all the immense resources of -an incredible luxury—in their garments, habitations, and -banquets—contrived to plant fruit trees on the summit of high towers, -and on the house tops;<a name="anc_xi_16" id="anc_xi_16"></a><a href="#footnote-xi_16"><span class="fnanchor">[XI_16]</span></a> thus suspending forests over their -heads,<a name="anc_xi_17" id="anc_xi_17"></a><a href="#footnote-xi_17"><span class="fnanchor">[XI_17]</span></a> as well as vast reservoirs, to keep alive the most -exquisite fish.<a name="anc_xi_18" id="anc_xi_18"></a><a href="#footnote-xi_18"><span class="fnanchor">[XI_18]</span></a></p> - -<p>At Rome they had an expensive, but, as they thought, effective process -of preparing pears, apples, plums, figs, cherries, &c., &c., and which -was as follows:—</p> - -<p>The fruit was chosen with great care, and put, with the stalks attached, -into honey, leaving to each one sufficient space to prevent their -touching each other.<a name="anc_xi_19" id="anc_xi_19"></a><a href="#footnote-xi_19"><span class="fnanchor">[XI_19]</span></a></p> - -<p>Our housewives of the 19th century may, perhaps, be curious to try this -Roman experiment, if the quantity of honey which it requires does not -frighten them.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_097" id="page_097"></a>{97}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="XII" id="XII"></a>XII.<br /><br /> -STONE FRUIT.</h2> - -<hr /> - -<h3>OLIVE TREE.</h3> - -<p>Throughout antiquity we find the olive tree acknowledged as something -venerable and holy, and taking precedence of all other trees, even the -most useful on account of their nourishing fruits, or the refreshing -drink they furnished. The wise Minerva gave it birth;<a name="anc_xii_1" id="anc_xii_1"></a><a href="#footnote-xii_1"><span class="fnanchor">[XII_1]</span></a> and its -foliage, which adorned the brows of the goddess,<a name="anc_xii_2" id="anc_xii_2"></a><a href="#footnote-xii_2"><span class="fnanchor">[XII_2]</span></a> served, -thenceforth, to crown victory,<a name="anc_xii_3" id="anc_xii_3"></a><a href="#footnote-xii_3"><span class="fnanchor">[XII_3]</span></a> or to give rise to the sweet hopes -of peace.<a name="anc_xii_4" id="anc_xii_4"></a><a href="#footnote-xii_4"><span class="fnanchor">[XII_4]</span></a> A green bough of olive rendered the suppliant -inviolable.<a name="anc_xii_5" id="anc_xii_5"></a><a href="#footnote-xii_5"><span class="fnanchor">[XII_5]</span></a> The deadly arrows of Hercules were made of its -wood.<a name="anc_xii_6" id="anc_xii_6"></a><a href="#footnote-xii_6"><span class="fnanchor">[XII_6]</span></a> From it princes borrowed their sceptre<a name="anc_xii_7" id="anc_xii_7"></a><a href="#footnote-xii_7"><span class="fnanchor">[XII_7]</span></a> and the -shepherd his crook.<a name="anc_xii_8" id="anc_xii_8"></a><a href="#footnote-xii_8"><span class="fnanchor">[XII_8]</span></a></p> - -<p>If, abandoning mythological fictions which surround the olive with a -charming but false poetry, we interrogate history for more certain -information concerning this revered tree, we shall find that Diodorus, -of Sicily, informs us Minerva discovered and made known to the Athenians -its useful qualities.<a name="anc_xii_9" id="anc_xii_9"></a><a href="#footnote-xii_9"><span class="fnanchor">[XII_9]</span></a> And a writer, in whose possession the most -ancient records in the world were found—Moses—who has recounted the -birth of vegetation,<a name="anc_xii_10" id="anc_xii_10"></a><a href="#footnote-xii_10"><span class="fnanchor">[XII_10]</span></a> tells us also of a patriarch pouring -purified oil on a stone altar,<a name="anc_xii_11" id="anc_xii_11"></a><a href="#footnote-xii_11"><span class="fnanchor">[XII_11]</span></a> before the olive tree was known -in Athens—nay, before Athens existed.</p> - -<p>Profane historians honour Aristeus, son of Apollo, and King of Arcadia, -with the invention of oil mills, and the manner of procuring the -precious fluid,<a name="anc_xii_12" id="anc_xii_12"></a><a href="#footnote-xii_12"><span class="fnanchor">[XII_12]</span></a> the abundance of which was such, in the East, -that it was used in lamps,<a name="anc_xii_13" id="anc_xii_13"></a><a href="#footnote-xii_13"><span class="fnanchor">[XII_13]</span></a> in anointing,<a name="anc_xii_14" id="anc_xii_14"></a><a href="#footnote-xii_14"><span class="fnanchor">[XII_14]</span></a> in seasoning of -dishes,<a name="anc_xii_15" id="anc_xii_15"></a><a href="#footnote-xii_15"><span class="fnanchor">[XII_15]</span></a> and in numerous other instances too long to -enumerate.<a name="anc_xii_16" id="anc_xii_16"></a><a href="#footnote-xii_16"><span class="fnanchor">[XII_16]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_098" id="page_098"></a>{98}</span></p> - -<p>Thus the most important culture among the Jews was that of the olive -tree. There were large plantations of it in all the provinces: Galilea, -Samaria, and Judea, were full of them.<a name="anc_xii_17" id="anc_xii_17"></a><a href="#footnote-xii_17"><span class="fnanchor">[XII_17]</span></a> It must not, however, be -thought the Hebrews used olives only to make oil; they knew how to -preserve them in brine, to be eaten at table, and for sale to strangers. -Pliny particularly extols those of Decapolis, a province of the Holy -Land: “They are very small,” he says, “not larger than capers; but are -much esteemed.”<a name="anc_xii_18" id="anc_xii_18"></a><a href="#footnote-xii_18"><span class="fnanchor">[XII_18]</span></a></p> - -<p>Among the Greeks, the oil of Samos was considered to be the purest and -finest:<a name="anc_xii_19" id="anc_xii_19"></a><a href="#footnote-xii_19"><span class="fnanchor">[XII_19]</span></a> next to it they gave preference to that of Caria or of -Thurium.<a name="anc_xii_20" id="anc_xii_20"></a><a href="#footnote-xii_20"><span class="fnanchor">[XII_20]</span></a></p> - -<p>As regards olives, the <i>Colymbades</i>, or floating kinds were more -esteemed than any other, on account of their size and taste;<a name="anc_xii_21" id="anc_xii_21"></a><a href="#footnote-xii_21"><span class="fnanchor">[XII_21]</span></a> -they had an exquisite flavour imparted to them by being placed with -different herbs in pots of oil:<a name="anc_xii_22" id="anc_xii_22"></a><a href="#footnote-xii_22"><span class="fnanchor">[XII_22]</span></a> the <i>Halmade</i> olives were -preserved in brine.<a name="anc_xii_23" id="anc_xii_23"></a><a href="#footnote-xii_23"><span class="fnanchor">[XII_23]</span></a></p> - -<p>The cultivation of the olive tree was carried to a great extent in -Greece; a host of poets sang in honour of this tree,<a name="anc_xii_24" id="anc_xii_24"></a><a href="#footnote-xii_24"><span class="fnanchor">[XII_24]</span></a> which -produced so sweet a fruit; and Theophrastus speaks of it very frequently -in his celebrated treatise on plants.<a name="anc_xii_25" id="anc_xii_25"></a><a href="#footnote-xii_25"><span class="fnanchor">[XII_25]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Romans were not acquainted with it until later; and even in the year -249 <small>B.C.</small>, they possessed so few olive trees that a pound of oil sold for -twelve <i>As</i>, or three shillings; less than two centuries after (74 -<small>B.C.</small>), ten pounds of it only cost one <i>As</i>; but Italy had so far -increased its plantations at the end of a few years (52 <small>B.C.</small>) that it -was able to furnish olive trees to the neighbouring countries.<a name="anc_xii_26" id="anc_xii_26"></a><a href="#footnote-xii_26"><span class="fnanchor">[XII_26]</span></a> -Its olives and oil were thought excellent; however, those of Grenada and -Andalusia were preferred to them, even in the time of Pliny,<a name="anc_xii_27" id="anc_xii_27"></a><a href="#footnote-xii_27"><span class="fnanchor">[XII_27]</span></a> on -account of their sweetness and delicate flavour. That illustrious -naturalist has transmitted to us particulars of the highest interest on -the cultivation of the olive tree, and the various preparations which -its fruit requires, or rather, to which it is necessarily subjected for -the luxury of the table.<a name="anc_xii_28" id="anc_xii_28"></a><a href="#footnote-xii_28"><span class="fnanchor">[XII_28]</span></a> Those who are curious on this subject -may also consult Cato (the first among the Romans who has written on -this tree),<a name="anc_xii_29" id="anc_xii_29"></a><a href="#footnote-xii_29"><span class="fnanchor">[XII_29]</span></a> Varro,<a name="anc_xii_30" id="anc_xii_30"></a><a href="#footnote-xii_30"><span class="fnanchor">[XII_30]</span></a> and Columella,<a name="anc_xii_31" id="anc_xii_31"></a><a href="#footnote-xii_31"><span class="fnanchor">[XII_31]</span></a> concerning the -art of raising the plants, of gathering the olives, of extracting the -oil, and of preserving the olives themselves. This latter operation was -performed as follows:—</p> - -<p>They took twenty-five pounds of olives, six pounds of quick-lime, broken -very small and dissolved in water, to which twelve pounds of oak<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_099" id="page_099"></a>{99}</span> ashes -and water in proportion were added. The olives were left to soak for -eight or ten hours in this lye; then taken out, washed with care, and -immersed for eight days in very clear soft water, which was changed -several times. They then took hot water in which some stems of fennel -had been infused; this plant was taken out, and the same water saturated -with salt until an egg would float. When it was quite cold, the olives -were put into this pickle.<a name="anc_xii_32" id="anc_xii_32"></a><a href="#footnote-xii_32"><span class="fnanchor">[XII_32]</span></a></p> - -<p>As regards the large olives, or <i>colymbades</i>, they were sometimes -crushed after the first operation, that the brine might penetrate more -easily; and odoriferous herbs were added to give them a better flavour. -This was the way they prepared those from the marshes of Ancona—the -only ones admitted at the tables of <i>gourmets</i>.<a name="anc_xii_33" id="anc_xii_33"></a><a href="#footnote-xii_33"><span class="fnanchor">[XII_33]</span></a></p> - -<p>At Rome, olives made their appearance in the first course, at the -beginning of the repast; but sometimes, after their introduction, the -gluttony of the guests caused them to be served again with the dessert: -so that they opened and closed the banquet.<a name="anc_xii_34" id="anc_xii_34"></a><a href="#footnote-xii_34"><span class="fnanchor">[XII_34]</span></a></p> - -<p>The distributions of oil, to which Latin authors often allude, were -somewhat rare for a long period. The people looked upon this fluid more -as an object of luxury than a necessary of life, and it was only on -extraordinary occasions that they were gratified with it. Thus, when -Scipio Africanus began his curule edileship, each citizen received a -measure of oil.<a name="anc_xii_35" id="anc_xii_35"></a><a href="#footnote-xii_35"><span class="fnanchor">[XII_35]</span></a> After his example, Agrippa made similar -distributions, in the reign of Augustus. They became more frequent under -the Emperors; and Severus ordered that an immense quantity should be -brought into Rome.<a name="anc_xii_36" id="anc_xii_36"></a><a href="#footnote-xii_36"><span class="fnanchor">[XII_36]</span></a></p> - -<p>Venafra, a town of Campania, supplied excellent oil.<a name="anc_xii_37" id="anc_xii_37"></a><a href="#footnote-xii_37"><span class="fnanchor">[XII_37]</span></a> Pliny says -that it surpassed that of all the rest of Italy.<a name="anc_xii_38" id="anc_xii_38"></a><a href="#footnote-xii_38"><span class="fnanchor">[XII_38]</span></a> However in -those days, as at present, much was consumed of a very bad quality: for -instance, that which was served by a clumsy Amphytrion to Julius Cæsar, -and with which this prince seemed perfectly satisfied—a proof that the -celebrated warrior was either a man of exquisite politeness or an -epicure of very scanty ability.<a name="anc_xii_39" id="anc_xii_39"></a><a href="#footnote-xii_39"><span class="fnanchor">[XII_39]</span></a></p> - -<p>Independently of the culinary preparations in which oil was abundantly -used, the ancients also employed much of it for anointing themselves; -and, when at the bath, a slave always carried some in a vase,<a name="anc_xii_40" id="anc_xii_40"></a><a href="#footnote-xii_40"><span class="fnanchor">[XII_40]</span></a> -with which they were rubbed. It was believed that the vital heat was -thus concentrated, the strength increased, and health preserved.</p> - -<p>Augustus inquiring one day of Pollio what ought to be done to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_100" id="page_100"></a>{100}</span> preserve -health in extreme old age: “Very little,” was his answer; “drink wine, -and rub yourself with oil.”<a name="anc_xii_41" id="anc_xii_41"></a><a href="#footnote-xii_41"><span class="fnanchor">[XII_41]</span></a></p> - -<p>We sall conclude this article by transcribing the recipe of an -odoriferous oil for which the Liburnians were celebrated, and which -Apicius considered worthy of his attention.</p> - -<p>Pound some alder and cyperus (sedges) with green laurel leaves till they -are reduced to a very fine powder—put this powder into Spanish oil, add -a condiment of salt,<a name="anc_xii_42" id="anc_xii_42"></a><a href="#footnote-xii_42"><span class="fnanchor">[XII_42]</span></a> and stir this mixture with great care for -three days or more, then let it remain for some time.<a name="anc_xii_43" id="anc_xii_43"></a><a href="#footnote-xii_43"><span class="fnanchor">[XII_43]</span></a></p> - -<p>Olive oil was little known in France under the two first races of her -kings. In the reign of Charlemagne it was drawn from the east and -Africa, and was so rare that the Council of Aix-la-chapelle (817) -allowed the monks to make use of the oil from bacon. In 1491 the Pope -allowed Queen Anne (of Bretagne), then afterwards the whole province, -and successively the other French provinces, the use of butter in -seasoning on fast days.</p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>PALM TREE.</h3> - -<p>The poet Pontanus has related, in beautiful Latin verses, the history of -two palm trees cultivated in the kingdom of Naples. For a long time -there had been a fine one growing in the environs of Otranto, loaded -every year with flowers, and yet producing no fruit, in spite of the -vigour of the tree and the heat of the climate. But one summer every one -was much surprised at seeing this same tree produce a quantity of -excellent and very ripe fruit. Astonishment changed into admiration when -it was discovered that another palm tree, cultivated at Brindes (fifteen -leagues distant), had that same year blossomed for the first time. From -that period the palm tree of Otranto continued to yield fruit every -year, notwithstanding the distance between it and the one at -Brindes.<a name="anc_xii_44" id="anc_xii_44"></a><a href="#footnote-xii_44"><span class="fnanchor">[XII_44]</span></a></p> - -<p>The palm tree, which mythologic ages consecrated to the Muses,<a name="anc_xii_45" id="anc_xii_45"></a><a href="#footnote-xii_45"><span class="fnanchor">[XII_45]</span></a> -was very common with the Hebrews,<a name="anc_xii_46" id="anc_xii_46"></a><a href="#footnote-xii_46"><span class="fnanchor">[XII_46]</span></a> to whom it supplied an -exhilarating beverage called <i>sechar</i>, which is often mentioned with -wine of the grape.<a name="anc_xii_47" id="anc_xii_47"></a><a href="#footnote-xii_47"><span class="fnanchor">[XII_47]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_101" id="page_101"></a>{101}</span></p> - -<p>Moreover, everything was useful in this tree.</p> - -<p>The wood was employed for constructing buildings and for fuel; the -leaves were used to make ropes, mats, and baskets; and the fruit served -as food for man and cattle.<a name="anc_xii_48" id="anc_xii_48"></a><a href="#footnote-xii_48"><span class="fnanchor">[XII_48]</span></a> From the dates a great quantity of -honey was extracted, but very little inferior to ordinary honey;<a name="anc_xii_49" id="anc_xii_49"></a><a href="#footnote-xii_49"><span class="fnanchor">[XII_49]</span></a> -and those which were not consumed were sent abroad with so much the more -ease that they keep well.<a name="anc_xii_50" id="anc_xii_50"></a><a href="#footnote-xii_50"><span class="fnanchor">[XII_50]</span></a></p> - -<p>According to Pliny, this fruit was in reputation in Greece and Rome; and -he names several excellent species which came from Judea, and -principally from Jericho and the valleys of Archelais, Livias, and -Phasaelis.<a name="anc_xii_51" id="anc_xii_51"></a><a href="#footnote-xii_51"><span class="fnanchor">[XII_51]</span></a></p> - -<p>Two Greek writers<a name="anc_xii_52" id="anc_xii_52"></a><a href="#footnote-xii_52"><span class="fnanchor">[XII_52]</span></a> inform us that the favourite of Herod, Nicolas -of Damascus, a poet, philosopher, and historian, much liked by Augustus, -sent to the Roman Emperor every year a peculiar kind of date from -Palestine; and that the monarch, who became very partial to them, gave -them the name of his friend. Bread and cakes were also made with them.</p> - -<p>We shall often have occasion to remark that dates were frequently -introduced in the composition of the most exquisite dishes of the -Romans.</p> - -<p>Dates not quite ripe, if exposed to the sun, become in the first place -soft, then pulpy, and lastly acquire a consistency similar to that of -French plums; they can then be preserved, and sent to foreign markets.</p> - -<p>Riper dates are squeezed to draw out a sweet juice, very pleasant, and -which is put, together with the other part, in large vessels, and kept -in that state, or buried in the earth. These are the ones commonly used -by the rich as food; the others are given up to the poorer class.</p> - -<p>Dates are eaten either with or without preparation, or mixed with -different kinds of viands. Their syrup is used as a sauce to various -dishes.</p> - -<p>They are also completely dried for exportation; when reduced into flour, -the caravans in the Desert employ them as food. By crushing them in soft -water wine is made, which produces a strong spirit, very agreeable.</p> - -<p>The best dates are yellowish, semi-transparent, odoriferous, and sweet.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_102" id="page_102"></a>{102}</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>CHERRY TREE.</h3> - -<p>When on a very hot summer day some inviting cherries deliciously quench -our burning thirst, we very little think of offering to Mithridates a -souvenir of affection and gratitude. Such is man: he enjoys his wealth, -and cares very little for the benefactor who has procured it for him. -This ancient King of Pontus, of toxologic memory, and better known by -physicians than gardeners, did not, however, pass the whole of his life -in composing poisons and their antidotes; for his royal hands planted, -and sometimes grafted, and it is to this useful pastime that we are -indebted<a name="anc_xii_53" id="anc_xii_53"></a><a href="#footnote-xii_53"><span class="fnanchor">[XII_53]</span></a> for the sweet fruit, the name of which recalls to mind -the city or country which was its birth-place.</p> - -<p>Ancient authors have told us, it is true, that Europe is indebted for -its cherries to Lucullus,<a name="anc_xii_54" id="anc_xii_54"></a><a href="#footnote-xii_54"><span class="fnanchor">[XII_54]</span></a> and that he made use of the cherry -tree to ornament his triumphal car; honour is therefore due to the Roman -general, but on condition that Mithridates shall lose nothing of his -glory, or be eclipsed by the renown of this great conqueror.</p> - -<p>The researches of several naturalists lead us to believe that cherry -trees already existed at that period in Gaul. This tree delights in cold -climates; and the wildest forests of France contain almost the whole of -its varieties. Perhaps at Rome they knew no other than the wild cherry -tree, which on that account was very little sought after, and Lucullus -probably brought it to notice by bringing some grafts or fruits from -Cerasus. In this manner the passage of Pliny<a name="anc_xii_55" id="anc_xii_55"></a><a href="#footnote-xii_55"><span class="fnanchor">[XII_55]</span></a> and that of -Virgil<a name="anc_xii_56" id="anc_xii_56"></a><a href="#footnote-xii_56"><span class="fnanchor">[XII_56]</span></a> can very well be explained, which present the cherry tree -as a new guest.</p> - -<p>Moreover, the Milesian, Xenophanes, and the physician, Diphilus of -Siphne, have spoken of cherries long before Lucullus was in existence. -Diphilus praises them in the strongest terms; he says they are -stomachic, and have a delicious flavour.<a name="anc_xii_57" id="anc_xii_57"></a><a href="#footnote-xii_57"><span class="fnanchor">[XII_57]</span></a> This certainly cannot -apply to the sour wild fruit which is to be met with in the woods, and -with which the most inexperienced palate is never twice caught.</p> - -<p>At all events the authority of Theophrastus would be sufficient to -remove all doubts, if any still remained. He informs us that, in his -time, the good cherries of Mithridates passed from Lower Asia into<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_103" id="page_103"></a>{103}</span> -Greece,<a name="anc_xii_58" id="anc_xii_58"></a><a href="#footnote-xii_58"><span class="fnanchor">[XII_58]</span></a> where they were gladly received as in all other nations, -on account of their form, taste, and qualities. This happy gastrologic -event was accomplished 300 years before the Christian era, whereas the -introduction of cherry trees by Lucullus took place 228 years later.</p> - -<p>The capital of the world knew not, at first, how to appreciate this -present as it deserved: the cherry tree was propagated so slowly in -Italy, that more than a century after its introduction it was far from -being generally cultivated.<a name="anc_xii_59" id="anc_xii_59"></a><a href="#footnote-xii_59"><span class="fnanchor">[XII_59]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Romans distinguished three principal species of cherries: the -<i>Apronian</i>, of a bright red, with a firm and delicate pulp; the -<i>Lutatian</i>, very black and sweet; the <i>Cæcilian</i>, round and stubby, and -much esteemed.<a name="anc_xii_60" id="anc_xii_60"></a><a href="#footnote-xii_60"><span class="fnanchor">[XII_60]</span></a></p> - -<p>This fruit embellished the third course in Rome, and the second at -Athens.</p> - -<p>“The fruit of the cherry tree is eaten raw, cooked, preserved with -sugar, and in brandy; it is also preserved dry, or made into ratafia. By -fermentation, the juice of cherries, with the kernel, by adding sugar, -makes a very agreeable liquor, which is called cherry wine; a brandy is -produced with fermented cherries drawn by the alembic, very powerful; -that named <i>kirschen wasser</i>, in the province of German-Lorraine, is a -spirituous liquor, obtained by the distillation of various species of -wild cherries.”—<span class="smcap">Bosc.</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>APRICOT TREE.</h3> - -<p>The apricot tree was called by the Romans <i>Armeniaca</i>, the tree of -Armenia, where it originated. It must be looked upon as a useful -monument of the valour of the masters of the world, if it be true that, -after their conquest, they brought it from that province into -Rome.<a name="anc_xii_61" id="anc_xii_61"></a><a href="#footnote-xii_61"><span class="fnanchor">[XII_61]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Latins also named the apricot <i>præcocia</i> (precocious), because it -ripens at the beginning of summer (in June) before other fruits.<a name="anc_xii_62" id="anc_xii_62"></a><a href="#footnote-xii_62"><span class="fnanchor">[XII_62]</span></a></p> - -<p>At the time when Pliny wrote (<small>A.D.</small> 72) the apricot tree had only been -known at Rome for 30 years; and apricots, still very rare, cost one -<i>denarius</i>, or sevenpence halfpenny each:<a name="anc_xii_63" id="anc_xii_63"></a><a href="#footnote-xii_63"><span class="fnanchor">[XII_63]</span></a> they were only to be -found in the first-rate shops of the fruit market or emporium of the -third region, near the <i>Metasudante</i>, which was only open every ninth<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_104" id="page_104"></a>{104}</span> -day; or near the Naval Camp, outside the Trigemina Gate. Some years -later the agriculturists of the Roman suburbs brought into the city some -excellent ones at a very low price; but the fashion and the taste for -them had gone by.</p> - -<p>“The green apricot is preserved before the stone becomes hard; when ripe -it is eaten raw, cooked, or stewed in marmalade; preserves are made of -it, as well as a dried paste, which keeps a long time; they are also -preserved in brandy. The stone as it is, or broken, is used in ratafia -of Noyau. Lastly, the kernel produces oil.”—<span class="smcap">Dutour.</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>PEACH TREE.</h3> - -<p>This fruit tree, originally from Persia, was first transplanted into -Greece,<a name="anc_xii_64" id="anc_xii_64"></a><a href="#footnote-xii_64"><span class="fnanchor">[XII_64]</span></a> where it existed a long time before it passed into -Italy. It was still quite a novelty in Rome towards the middle of the -1st century of the Christian era, and the rich alone could eat peaches, -for they cost no less than £11 13<i>s.</i> 4<i>d.</i> the dozen, or 18<i>s.</i> 9<i>d.</i> -each.<a name="anc_xii_65" id="anc_xii_65"></a><a href="#footnote-xii_65"><span class="fnanchor">[XII_65]</span></a> This is rather dear fruit, however good it may be. But the -bill of fare of certain banquets will show us, by-and-by, whether the -Roman gastronomics knew how to spend their gold profusely, when they -wished to satisfy a caprice or enjoy some dainty curiosity.</p> - -<p>It was believed in Rome that the peach contained a deadly poison when -gathered in Persia;<a name="anc_xii_66" id="anc_xii_66"></a><a href="#footnote-xii_66"><span class="fnanchor">[XII_66]</span></a> but that, once transplanted to another soil, -it lost its injurious properties. This singular opinion, still held by -many persons in the present day, has been refuted by Pliny, who treats -it as a ridiculous idea;<a name="anc_xii_67" id="anc_xii_67"></a><a href="#footnote-xii_67"><span class="fnanchor">[XII_67]</span></a> at any rate, Galen<a name="anc_xii_68" id="anc_xii_68"></a><a href="#footnote-xii_68"><span class="fnanchor">[XII_68]</span></a> and -Dioscorides<a name="anc_xii_69" id="anc_xii_69"></a><a href="#footnote-xii_69"><span class="fnanchor">[XII_69]</span></a> assert that this fruit is indigestible, unwholesome, -and that it often causes fevers.</p> - -<p>The high price of peaches, and the short duration of their freshness, -caused amateurs to seek the means of preserving them for the longest -possible time. The following is the recipe given by Apicius:—</p> - -<p>“Choose the finest of this fruit, and place them in water, saturated -with salt. The next day take them out, dry them with the greatest care, -and then put them into a vessel with savory, vinegar, and -salt.”<a name="anc_xii_70" id="anc_xii_70"></a><a href="#footnote-xii_70"><span class="fnanchor">[XII_70]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_105" id="page_105"></a>{105}</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>PLUM TREE.</h3> - -<p>Plum trees were known in Africa from time immemorial; and Theophrastus -speaks of the great number of these trees which were to be found at -Thebes, Memphis, and especially at Damascus.<a name="anc_xii_71" id="anc_xii_71"></a><a href="#footnote-xii_71"><span class="fnanchor">[XII_71]</span></a> Athenæus, also, -praises the excellent plums of this last-named city;<a name="anc_xii_72" id="anc_xii_72"></a><a href="#footnote-xii_72"><span class="fnanchor">[XII_72]</span></a> and we know -that time has not lessened their ancient reputation.</p> - -<p>Asia and Egypt sent a great quantity to Europe; and, in order that they -might keep better during this long voyage, a part of them were dried, -and the rest were preserved—that is to say, the best—in honey and -sweet wine.<a name="anc_xii_73" id="anc_xii_73"></a><a href="#footnote-xii_73"><span class="fnanchor">[XII_73]</span></a> These were the only kind known in Rome in the time -of Cato (150 years <small>B.C.</small>), but the Romans, then novices in the art of -good living, would have but ill-appreciated the delicate and perfumed -pulp of Damascus plums, at the moment when, hardly plucked from the -tree, their fresh and velvet-like bloom delights the eye and tempts the -palate of epicures. Two centuries later the science of good living made -incredible progress. A magiric atmosphere enveloped the capital of the -universe with its delicious fragrance, and the joyous free livers of -Italy cultivated in their gardens plums of the most beautiful purple and -gold,<a name="anc_xii_74" id="anc_xii_74"></a><a href="#footnote-xii_74"><span class="fnanchor">[XII_74]</span></a> far superior to the much-extolled fruit from Damascus and -Memphis. The fields everywhere offered such luxuriance of plum trees -that Pliny, the opposition man, or <i>juste milieu</i> of that time, -complained of their number,<a name="anc_xii_75" id="anc_xii_75"></a><a href="#footnote-xii_75"><span class="fnanchor">[XII_75]</span></a> and grieved at what he fancied a -useless and expensive profusion of them.</p> - -<p>The ancient Counts of Anjou transplanted the plums of Damascus into -their province; and the good King René of Sicily, Duke of Anjou and -Count of Provence, introduced them into southern Europe.<a name="anc_xii_76" id="anc_xii_76"></a><a href="#footnote-xii_76"><span class="fnanchor">[XII_76]</span></a></p> - -<p>The plums of <i>Monsieur</i> are thus named because Monsieur, the brother of -Louis XIV., was very fond of them.<a name="anc_xii_77" id="anc_xii_77"></a><a href="#footnote-xii_77"><span class="fnanchor">[XII_77]</span></a></p> - -<p>The plums of <i>Reine Claude</i> owe their name to the first consort of -Francis I., daughter of Louis XII.<a name="anc_xii_78" id="anc_xii_78"></a><a href="#footnote-xii_78"><span class="fnanchor">[XII_78]</span></a></p> - -<p>The plums of <i>Mirabelle</i> were brought from Provence into Lorraine by -King René.<a name="anc_xii_79" id="anc_xii_79"></a><a href="#footnote-xii_79"><span class="fnanchor">[XII_79]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_106" id="page_106"></a>{106}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="XIII" id="XIII"></a>XIII.<br /><br /> -PIP FRUIT.</h2> - -<hr /> - -<h3>QUINCE TREE.</h3> - -<p>This tree appears to have been a native of Cydon, a city of Crete; from -hence it passed into Greece,<a name="anc_xiii_1" id="anc_xiii_1"></a><a href="#footnote-xiii_1"><span class="fnanchor">[XIII_1]</span></a> and soon became the delight of its -voluptuous inhabitants. The environs of Corinth, above all, were noted -for the sweetness and beauty of their quinces,<a name="anc_xiii_2" id="anc_xiii_2"></a><a href="#footnote-xiii_2"><span class="fnanchor">[XIII_2]</span></a> which the -enlightened luxury of Attica preferred to all others.</p> - -<p>Rome did not fail to enrich itself with a fruit<a name="anc_xiii_3" id="anc_xiii_3"></a><a href="#footnote-xiii_3"><span class="fnanchor">[XIII_3]</span></a> to which the -ingenuity of culinary art was to give a new flavour. Young plants were -first imported from abroad, and put in boxes;<a name="anc_xiii_4" id="anc_xiii_4"></a><a href="#footnote-xiii_4"><span class="fnanchor">[XIII_4]</span></a> but the Romans -knew not how to rear them, and were obliged for a long time to content -themselves with excellent quinces preserved in honey, and sent from -Iberia and Syria to the great capital.<a name="anc_xiii_5" id="anc_xiii_5"></a><a href="#footnote-xiii_5"><span class="fnanchor">[XIII_5]</span></a></p> - -<p>At last they learned how to cultivate the quince tree,<a name="anc_xiii_6" id="anc_xiii_6"></a><a href="#footnote-xiii_6"><span class="fnanchor">[XIII_6]</span></a> and -subsequently introduced it into Gaul, where it succeeded admirably. -They, too, could then enjoy, with a certain pride, preserves nothing -inferior to those of Spain,<a name="anc_xiii_7" id="anc_xiii_7"></a><a href="#footnote-xiii_7"><span class="fnanchor">[XIII_7]</span></a> and which the confectioners in the -“market of dainties,”<a name="anc_xiii_8" id="anc_xiii_8"></a><a href="#footnote-xiii_8"><span class="fnanchor">[XIII_8]</span></a> kept in reserve with quince wine<a name="anc_xiii_9" id="anc_xiii_9"></a><a href="#footnote-xiii_9"><span class="fnanchor">[XIII_9]</span></a> -for the tables of the patricians; and also the stomachic exhilarating -liqueur extracted from the fruit of sweet Cydoneum,<a name="anc_xiii_10" id="anc_xiii_10"></a><a href="#footnote-xiii_10"><span class="fnanchor">[XIII_10]</span></a> which even -a <i>petite maîtresse</i> would not have disdained at a light morning repast.</p> - -<p>At any rate, the faculty this time agreed with culinary chemistry in -recommending to epicures those delicious preparations. It was asserted, -besides, that the quince possessed the most beneficial -qualities,<a name="anc_xiii_11" id="anc_xiii_11"></a><a href="#footnote-xiii_11"><span class="fnanchor">[XIII_11]</span></a> first, as<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_107" id="page_107"></a>{107}</span> an aliment, and next, as a -counter-poison:<a name="anc_xiii_12" id="anc_xiii_12"></a><a href="#footnote-xiii_12"><span class="fnanchor">[XIII_12]</span></a> <i>gourmandise</i> made the mind docile, and none -doubted its marvellous virtues.</p> - -<p>This fruit, so much extolled, was preserved by placing it with its -branches and leaves in a vessel, afterwards filled with honey or sweet -wine, which was reduced to half the quantity by ebullition.<a name="anc_xiii_13" id="anc_xiii_13"></a><a href="#footnote-xiii_13"><span class="fnanchor">[XIII_13]</span></a></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>PEAR TREE.</h3> - -<p>Many countries have disputed the honour of having given birth to the -pear tree. According to some it was a native of Mount Ida, so renowned -for its refreshing fountains; others said Alexandria; and in the opinion -of some writers it came from different parts of Greece. Let us add to -this enumeration Palestine, where this tree grew at a very remote -period.<a name="anc_xiii_14" id="anc_xiii_14"></a><a href="#footnote-xiii_14"><span class="fnanchor">[XIII_14]</span></a></p> - -<p>It results from these different allegations that the ancients were -acquainted with the pear tree; that they cultivated and were fond of -pears, which is not at all surprising, as they are an excellent fruit. -Theophrastus was very fond of them; he speaks of them very -often,<a name="anc_xiii_15" id="anc_xiii_15"></a><a href="#footnote-xiii_15"><span class="fnanchor">[XIII_15]</span></a> and always with praise. The same thing may be affirmed -of Pliny,<a name="anc_xiii_16" id="anc_xiii_16"></a><a href="#footnote-xiii_16"><span class="fnanchor">[XIII_16]</span></a> and more particularly of Galen, whose medical -authority was formerly of so much weight. The learned physician of -Pergamo is pleased to recognise in the pear strengthening qualities -which benefit the stomach, and an astringent virtue which the apple does -not possess in the same degree.<a name="anc_xiii_17" id="anc_xiii_17"></a><a href="#footnote-xiii_17"><span class="fnanchor">[XIII_17]</span></a></p> - -<p>Like us, the Greeks and Romans distinguished several kinds of this -fruit, whose names indicated their taste and forms. It is not certain -whether they possessed the <i>Bon Chrétien</i>, which honours our tables in -winter, either raw or cooked. This name reminds us of its origin, which -we will relate.</p> - -<p>Louis XI., King of France, had sent for Saint François de Paule from the -lower part of Calabria, in the hopes of recovering his health through -his intercession. The saint brought with him the seeds of this pear, and -as he was called at court <i>Le Bon Chrétien</i>, this fruit received the -name of him to whom France owed its introduction.<a name="anc_xiii_18" id="anc_xiii_18"></a><a href="#footnote-xiii_18"><span class="fnanchor">[XIII_18]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_108" id="page_108"></a>{108}</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>APPLE TREE.</h3> - -<p>A very ancient tradition—for it is six thousand years old—represents -the apple as being, from the beginning of the world, the inauspicious -fruit to which may be traced all the miseries of mankind. We crave -permission to defend it from this accusation, merely by these few words, -“That it is nowhere written.”</p> - -<p>The holy books rarely speak of the apple tree. If we are not mistaken, -it is only mentioned in five passages<a name="anc_xiii_19" id="anc_xiii_19"></a><a href="#footnote-xiii_19"><span class="fnanchor">[XIII_19]</span></a> of the sacred writings, -and at periods very distant from the first offence of man. Therefore, -nothing indicates aversion or contempt on the part of the inspired -writers for this tree, which on one occasion serves even as a graceful -term of comparison;<a name="anc_xiii_20" id="anc_xiii_20"></a><a href="#footnote-xiii_20"><span class="fnanchor">[XIII_20]</span></a> from which it might be concluded that the -inhabitants of the east thought as much of it as other nations.</p> - -<p>There is one (and perhaps only one) example of a singular and excessive -repugnance to apples. It is said that Uladislas, King of Poland, no -sooner perceived them than he became so confused and terrified that he -immediately fled. It certainly required very little to disturb this poor -prince!</p> - -<p>Greece produced very beautiful apple trees, and their fruit was so -excellent, that it was the favourite dessert of Philip of Macedon, and -of his son, Alexander the Great, who caused them to be served at all -their meals.<a name="anc_xiii_21" id="anc_xiii_21"></a><a href="#footnote-xiii_21"><span class="fnanchor">[XIII_21]</span></a> Probably they were obtained purposely for them -from the island of Eubœa, which enjoyed an extraordinary reputation -for apples.<a name="anc_xiii_22" id="anc_xiii_22"></a><a href="#footnote-xiii_22"><span class="fnanchor">[XIII_22]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Athenian legislator—the wise Solon—almost succeeded in throwing -discredit on this aliment, so much liked by his fellow-citizens, by a -sumptuary law which he thought it necessary to establish.</p> - -<p>The inhabitants of Attica were fond of good living; and when one of them -took a wife he spared no expense to give splendour to the nuptial -banquet—a very excusable pride on such an occasion. Solon was in the -habit of interfering rather too much in the affairs of others. Every one -has his failing, and this was <i>his</i>: he imagined that his fellow -citizens fared too sumptuously on their wedding-day; and, in order to -curtail an expense contrary to his ideas of economy, he ordered that -the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_109" id="page_109"></a>{109}</span> bridegroom should be content with a single apple, while his guests -were regaling themselves at his expense. Who would believe it? This law -was religiously observed by the Greeks, and the Persians thought it so -original that they, in their turn, adopted it.<a name="anc_xiii_23" id="anc_xiii_23"></a><a href="#footnote-xiii_23"><span class="fnanchor">[XIII_23]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Latins gave a favourable reception to the apple tree, and cultivated -it with care. Eminent citizens of Rome did not disdain to give their -names and patronage to different kinds procured by themselves, or which -they had improved in their orchards. The Manlian apples were so called -after Manlius; the Claudian after Claudius, their patron; the Appian -owed their name to Appius. Some others preserved that of their native -country: such were the Sidonians, the Greeks, and the Epirotes.</p> - -<p>After the conquest of Gaul, the Romans introduced all these -fruits;<a name="anc_xiii_24" id="anc_xiii_24"></a><a href="#footnote-xiii_24"><span class="fnanchor">[XIII_24]</span></a> and as the climate was more favourable to apple trees -than that of Italy, they soon multiplied to a surprising extent. France -ought to be grateful to those proud warriors for a present that enriched -that province of the empire, and which perhaps still contributes to its -prosperity.</p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>LEMON TREE.</h3> - -<p>Among the richest productions of Media, Virgil mentions a tree, to whose -fruit he attributes the greatest virtues against all poisons. The -description he gives of it seems to belong to the lemon tree.<a name="anc_xiii_25" id="anc_xiii_25"></a><a href="#footnote-xiii_25"><span class="fnanchor">[XIII_25]</span></a> -However this may be, its origin, and even its identity, have given rise -to the most animated disputations.</p> - -<p>Many have asserted that Juba, King of Mauritania (50 years <small>B.C.</small>), spoke -of the lemon tree, and that he looked upon it as being very ancient. -They add, that the Lybians gave to its fruit the name of “Hesperide -apples,” that Hercules stole, and which, on account of their colour, -were called “golden apples” by the Greeks, who were indebted to that -hero for their introduction.<a name="anc_xiii_26" id="anc_xiii_26"></a><a href="#footnote-xiii_26"><span class="fnanchor">[XIII_26]</span></a></p> - -<p>Others maintain that no one has spoken of them before -Theophrastus,<a name="anc_xiii_27" id="anc_xiii_27"></a><a href="#footnote-xiii_27"><span class="fnanchor">[XIII_27]</span></a> who called them “Median apples,” after the place -of their origin; and that consequently those persons were wrong who -confounded them with the apples taken from the garden of the -Hesperides.<a name="anc_xiii_28" id="anc_xiii_28"></a><a href="#footnote-xiii_28"><span class="fnanchor">[XIII_28]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_110" id="page_110"></a>{110}</span></p> - -<p>These difficulties will probably disappear, if we remember that the -ancients have given to the lemon tree various names<a name="anc_xiii_29" id="anc_xiii_29"></a><a href="#footnote-xiii_29"><span class="fnanchor">[XIII_29]</span></a> which -belong to other trees. The truth is, that the Athenians received it from -the Persians, who were neighbours of the Medes, and from Attica it -spread all over Greece.<a name="anc_xiii_30" id="anc_xiii_30"></a><a href="#footnote-xiii_30"><span class="fnanchor">[XIII_30]</span></a></p> - -<p>Lemons were only known to the Romans at a very late period, and at first -were used only to keep the moths from their garments. The acidity of -this fruit was unpleasant to them, and Apicius makes no use of it: those -who wish to satisfy their curiosity on the subject may read the remarks -of Lister, the celebrated physician of Queen Anne, and editor of the -works of this famous <i>gourmet</i>.<a name="anc_xiii_31" id="anc_xiii_31"></a><a href="#footnote-xiii_31"><span class="fnanchor">[XIII_31]</span></a></p> - -<p>In the time of Pliny, the lemon was hardly known otherwise than as an -excellent counter-poison.<a name="anc_xiii_32" id="anc_xiii_32"></a><a href="#footnote-xiii_32"><span class="fnanchor">[XIII_32]</span></a></p> - -<p>Fifty years after that, Palladius reared the plants which he had -received from Media,<a name="anc_xiii_33" id="anc_xiii_33"></a><a href="#footnote-xiii_33"><span class="fnanchor">[XIII_33]</span></a> and at last this tree was slowly -naturalized in the south of Europe.</p> - -<p>A considerable number of anecdotes have been told of the anti-venomous -properties of the lemon. Athenæus speaks of two men who did not feel -pain from the bite of dangerous serpents, because they had previously -eaten of this fruit.<a name="anc_xiii_34" id="anc_xiii_34"></a><a href="#footnote-xiii_34"><span class="fnanchor">[XIII_34]</span></a> Either this story is false, or men and -things have strangely altered.</p> - -<p>Apicius preserves lemons by putting each of them into a separate vessel, -which is hermetically sealed with plaster, and afterwards suspended from -the ceiling.<a name="anc_xiii_35" id="anc_xiii_35"></a><a href="#footnote-xiii_35"><span class="fnanchor">[XIII_35]</span></a></p> - -<p>In another place we shall speak of the tables and beds made of the lemon -tree, so fashionable amongst the Romans, and for which they spent -prodigious sums.</p> - -<p>One thing remains to be noticed; and that is, that preserved lemon peel -was considered as one of the best digestives, and that doctors recommend -it to weak and delicate persons.<a name="anc_xiii_36" id="anc_xiii_36"></a><a href="#footnote-xiii_36"><span class="fnanchor">[XIII_36]</span></a></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>ORANGE TREE.</h3> - -<p>If confidence is to be placed in some authors, the native land of the -orange tree would appear to be the gardens of the Hesperides, so -remarkable<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_111" id="page_111"></a>{111}</span> in mythologic ages, and it was found also in Western Africa, -Mauritania, and the Fortunate Islands; to which they add those mountains -of Atlas so little known in a botanical point of view, notwithstanding -the daring excursions of several learned men.</p> - -<p>According to other observers, it originally came from the southern -countries of China,<a name="anc_xiii_37" id="anc_xiii_37"></a><a href="#footnote-xiii_37"><span class="fnanchor">[XIII_37]</span></a> from the islands of the Indian Archipelago, -or even from that portion of the globe called Oceania.</p> - -<p>One incontestable fact is, that writers of antiquity were completely -ignorant of the existence of this superb tree. Had they known it, its -majestic height, the dark green of its foliage, the suavity of its -flowers, its fruit, so fine, bright, and so flattering to the taste, -could not have failed to inspire them with brilliant pages. -Theophrastus, and the Latin geoponics, never would have neglected to -speak of the luxury and fecundity it displays, even in the season of -hoary frost. Besides, the name of <i>Portughan</i>, which is given to the -orange by the Arabs—a name foreign to their language, but which is -again heard among the Italians, Spaniards, and even in the southern -provinces of France—is it not an indication that the introduction of -this tree has some connection with the Portuguese voyages to India, -particularly those of Juan de Castro in the year 1520?</p> - -<p>It is the Portuguese who have planted the orange tree in the Canaries, -at Madeira, where it was supposed to be indigenous on account of the -vigorous vegetation it there displays: it is the Portuguese who have -introduced this tree into all countries washed by the Mediterranean: and -it is still the Portuguese who have furnished the parent suckers, whence -the Spaniards have been enabled to form their immense groves in -Andalusia and Algarvia.<a name="anc_xiii_38" id="anc_xiii_38"></a><a href="#footnote-xiii_38"><span class="fnanchor">[XIII_38]</span></a></p> - -<p>From the foregoing recital we may conclude that the grand poliphagic -triumvirate of antiquity—Archestratus, Vitellius, and Apicius—never -tasted this fruit, which Heaven reserved for the appreciation of modern -times. Blessed shades! if, attracted sometimes by the exquisite vapours -of our stoves, you should wander again round those succulent dishes -which a more experienced chemistry enables us to elaborate: if fruitless -gastronomic reminiscences should lead you into the delightful retreat of -some one of your disciples, who by his enlightened skill is there -preparing the treasures of the dessert: oh! turn away your eyes from -those enticing fruits which display their golden rays, and rise in -pyramids upon a porcelain pedestal. Here are oranges, the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_112" id="page_112"></a>{112}</span> nectar and -ambrosia of the Olympian ages, which you doubtless regret, and we have -again discovered. These wonders of sweetness existed perhaps in China, -but you knew it not, for China did not become a Roman province. But -console yourselves, giants of cookery! we have not yet attained the high -pinnacle of your art; your wild boar <i>à la Troyenne</i>, your peacocks’ -brains, and your phenicopters’ tongues, secure for you a triumph which -posterity will dispute in vain!</p> - -<p>The orange known under the name of “Portugal orange” comes from China. -Not more than two centuries ago the Portuguese brought thence the first -scion, which has multiplied so prodigiously that we now see entire -forests of orange trees in Portugal.<a name="anc_xiii_39" id="anc_xiii_39"></a><a href="#footnote-xiii_39"><span class="fnanchor">[XIII_39]</span></a></p> - -<p>It appears to have been the custom formerly, in England, to make -new-year’s presents of oranges stuck full with cloves. We read in one of -Ben Jonson’s pieces, the “Christmas Masque,” “He has an orange and -rosemary, but not a clove to stick in it.”<a name="anc_xiii_40" id="anc_xiii_40"></a><a href="#footnote-xiii_40"><span class="fnanchor">[XIII_40]</span></a></p> - -<p>At the present day we can dispense with this embellishment.</p> - -<p>The first orange tree cultivated in the centre of France was to be seen -a few years ago at Fontainebleau. It was called <i>Le Connétable</i> (the -Constable), because it had belonged to the Connétable de Bourbon, and -had been confiscated, together with all property belonging to that -prince, after his revolt against his sovereign.<a name="anc_xiii_41" id="anc_xiii_41"></a><a href="#footnote-xiii_41"><span class="fnanchor">[XIII_41]</span></a></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>FIG TREE.</h3> - -<p>Antiquity, sacred and profane, has not left us, on any other tree, facts -so clear and certain as upon the fig tree; it is the only tree of Eden -of which the sacred books have preserved to us any mention.<a name="anc_xiii_42" id="anc_xiii_42"></a><a href="#footnote-xiii_42"><span class="fnanchor">[XIII_42]</span></a> In -the East there were immense plantations of it; Egypt had some -also;<a name="anc_xiii_43" id="anc_xiii_43"></a><a href="#footnote-xiii_43"><span class="fnanchor">[XIII_43]</span></a> and the land of Canaan produced figs, which enabled Moses -to judge of its fertility.<a name="anc_xiii_44" id="anc_xiii_44"></a><a href="#footnote-xiii_44"><span class="fnanchor">[XIII_44]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Scriptures, in order to give us an idea of the happiness and -tranquillity the Jews enjoyed under the reign of Solomon, tell us that, -“in Judea and in Israel all dwelt safely, every man under his vine and -under his fig tree.”<a name="anc_xiii_45" id="anc_xiii_45"></a><a href="#footnote-xiii_45"><span class="fnanchor">[XIII_45]</span></a></p> - -<p>And the fruit of this tree was no doubt very dear to the Hebrews,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_113" id="page_113"></a>{113}</span> since -Rubshakeh, the general of the Assyrian army, thought to seduce them from -their obedience to Hezekiah, King of Judea, by saying to them: “Come out -to me, and then eat ye every man of his own vine, and every one of his -fig tree.”<a name="anc_xiii_46" id="anc_xiii_46"></a><a href="#footnote-xiii_46"><span class="fnanchor">[XIII_46]</span></a></p> - -<p>Thus the trade carried on with figs in Jerusalem had become so -considerable and active, that Esdras was obliged to interdict it on the -Sabbath day. It appears that figs were arranged in small masses, to -which they give the form of loaves or cakes, either round or square, -which were sold nearly in the same way as at the present day.<a name="anc_xiii_47" id="anc_xiii_47"></a><a href="#footnote-xiii_47"><span class="fnanchor">[XIII_47]</span></a></p> - -<p>From the East the fig tree passed into Greece, then into Italy, Gaul, -Spain, and throughout Europe.</p> - -<p>The Athenians pretended that this tree was a native of their soil, and -this people never wanted mythologic facts to support their assertions; -they imagined, and would have others believe, that the grateful Ceres -rewarded the Athenian, Phytalus, for his hospitality by giving him a fig -tree, which served for all the plantations of Attica.<a name="anc_xiii_48" id="anc_xiii_48"></a><a href="#footnote-xiii_48"><span class="fnanchor">[XIII_48]</span></a></p> - -<p>Whatever may be the way it came to them, they received it with -transports of joy; it was planted with great pomp in the centre of the -public square at Athens: from that time this spot was sacred to -them.<a name="anc_xiii_49" id="anc_xiii_49"></a><a href="#footnote-xiii_49"><span class="fnanchor">[XIII_49]</span></a></p> - -<p>Ere long the fame of the figs of Attica spread far and wide: they were -the best in Greece; and the magistrates strictly prohibited their -exportation.<a name="anc_xiii_50" id="anc_xiii_50"></a><a href="#footnote-xiii_50"><span class="fnanchor">[XIII_50]</span></a> This law was afterwards modified, that is, the -exportation of figs was allowed on payment of a very heavy duty.</p> - -<p>They then appointed inspectors, whose duty it was to discover -contraventions, and report them: thence arose the name of -Sycophant,<a name="anc_xiii_51" id="anc_xiii_51"></a><a href="#footnote-xiii_51"><span class="fnanchor">[XIII_51]</span></a> taken by those informers—a vile and dispised set of -men, whose denunciations were often false, and with whom the infamous -authors of a base calumny were eventually assimilated.<a name="anc_xiii_52" id="anc_xiii_52"></a><a href="#footnote-xiii_52"><span class="fnanchor">[XIII_52]</span></a></p> - -<p>In Greece every one feasted on figs: it was a sort of regular -gastronomic <i>furore</i>, which knew no bounds, and the wise Plato himself -ceased to be a philosopher when presented with a basket of that fruit. -As an aliment it was considered so wholesome and strengthening, that on -the first introduction of them they constituted the food of the athletæ, -whose patron, Hercules, had also fed on them in his youth.</p> - -<p>The superiority of the Greek figs was so generally acknowledged that the -kings of Persia even had a predilection for them: dried ones were served -on the tables of these ostentatious princes.<a name="anc_xiii_53" id="anc_xiii_53"></a><a href="#footnote-xiii_53"><span class="fnanchor">[XIII_53]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_114" id="page_114"></a>{114}</span></p> - -<p>The Romans believed, according to an antique tradition, that their first -princes, Romulus and Remus, were found under a fig tree on the shore of -the Tiber; they therefore rendered signal honours to this tree when it -was brought into Italy: they planted it in the Forum; and it was under -its shade that a sacrifice was offered every year to the shepherdess who -had suckled their founder.<a name="anc_xiii_54" id="anc_xiii_54"></a><a href="#footnote-xiii_54"><span class="fnanchor">[XIII_54]</span></a></p> - -<p>It may, nevertheless, be affirmed, that no one before Cato had noticed -the fig tree,<a name="anc_xiii_55" id="anc_xiii_55"></a><a href="#footnote-xiii_55"><span class="fnanchor">[XIII_55]</span></a> which probably appeared in Rome at the same -period as the peach, apricot, and other trees of Asia. Sixty years -afterwards Varro speaks of it as a novelty from beyond sea, and points -out to us that its various species have retained the names of the -countries whence they came.<a name="anc_xiii_56" id="anc_xiii_56"></a><a href="#footnote-xiii_56"><span class="fnanchor">[XIII_56]</span></a></p> - -<p>Those varieties were so numerous, that Pliny counts no less than -twenty-nine of them,<a name="anc_xiii_57" id="anc_xiii_57"></a><a href="#footnote-xiii_57"><span class="fnanchor">[XIII_57]</span></a> and the designation of the greater part -recalled to mind the illustrious families who had taken them under their -patronage.</p> - -<p>The people of the north, especially the moderns, cannot well explain the -extraordinary infatuation of the ancient southern nations for the fruit -of the fig tree. Perhaps we ought to look for the reason in the -nourishing, fresh, and sweet qualities of its pulp, and in the numerous -plantations of those trees, which sometimes furnished an agreeable food -to entire armies, when other provisions failed.<a name="anc_xiii_58" id="anc_xiii_58"></a><a href="#footnote-xiii_58"><span class="fnanchor">[XIII_58]</span></a> That of Philip -of Macedon owed its preservation to the figs brought to it by the -Magnesians.<a name="anc_xiii_59" id="anc_xiii_59"></a><a href="#footnote-xiii_59"><span class="fnanchor">[XIII_59]</span></a> A long time before, David received with joy, from -the hands of Abigail, two hundred baskets of dried figs, for himself and -his exhausted men.<a name="anc_xiii_60" id="anc_xiii_60"></a><a href="#footnote-xiii_60"><span class="fnanchor">[XIII_60]</span></a></p> - -<p>More than once the far-famed reputation of some beautiful plantations of -fig trees brought long and disastrous wars on an entire country, as -steel attracts lightning. Xerxes left Persia, and rushed on Attica, to -take possession of those delicious figs, whose renown only had crossed -his territory:<a name="anc_xiii_61" id="anc_xiii_61"></a><a href="#footnote-xiii_61"><span class="fnanchor">[XIII_61]</span></a> and it was partly to eat the figs of Rome that -the Gauls waged war against Italy:<a name="anc_xiii_62" id="anc_xiii_62"></a><a href="#footnote-xiii_62"><span class="fnanchor">[XIII_62]</span></a> thank Heaven we have now -more respect for our neighbours’ fig trees.</p> - -<p>The best things in the world have had their detractors, and the fig is -not an exception. Philotimus and Diphilus looked upon it as bad -food;<a name="anc_xiii_63" id="anc_xiii_63"></a><a href="#footnote-xiii_63"><span class="fnanchor">[XIII_63]</span></a> Galen was unwell after partaking of figs, and he -recommends us to mix almonds with them;<a name="anc_xiii_64" id="anc_xiii_64"></a><a href="#footnote-xiii_64"><span class="fnanchor">[XIII_64]</span></a> Hippocrates himself -thought them indigestible, and advised to drink plentifully after eating -them.<a name="anc_xiii_65" id="anc_xiii_65"></a><a href="#footnote-xiii_65"><span class="fnanchor">[XIII_65]</span></a></p> - -<p>All these great men may have been right, but the Greeks, their -<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_115" id="page_115"></a>{115}</span>contemporaries, acted as if they were wrong: happily we are not called -upon to decide between them.</p> - -<p>Figs were commonly served on aristocratic tables with salt, pepper, -vinegar, and some aromatics; they were eaten fresh, or dried in the -oven, or on hurdles in the sun.</p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>RASPBERRY TREE.</h3> - -<p>The ancients hardly mention the raspberry tree, which they placed on a -level with the bramble. The Latins called it “<i>Bramble of Ida</i>,” because -it was common on that mountain.<a name="anc_xiii_66" id="anc_xiii_66"></a><a href="#footnote-xiii_66"><span class="fnanchor">[XIII_66]</span></a> There can be no doubt, however, -that the Romans knew how to appreciate the raspberry tree, so much -esteemed in our days.</p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>CURRANT TREE.</h3> - -<p>The moderns have attempted to ennoble our two kinds of currants by -decorating them with Latin names, which recall their antiquity.<a name="anc_xiii_67" id="anc_xiii_67"></a><a href="#footnote-xiii_67"><span class="fnanchor">[XIII_67]</span></a> -Vain effort! To all appearance the Greeks and people of Italy were not -acquainted with the currant tree,<a name="anc_xiii_68" id="anc_xiii_68"></a><a href="#footnote-xiii_68"><span class="fnanchor">[XIII_68]</span></a> although they well deserved -to possess this delicious fruit.</p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>STRAWBERRY PLANT.</h3> - -<p>Among the Greeks the name of the strawberry indicated its tenuity, this -fruit forming hardly a mouthful. With the Latins the name reminded one -of the delicious perfume of this plant. Both nations were equally fond -of it, and applied the same care to its cultivation. Virgil appears to -place it in the same rank with flowers,<a name="anc_xiii_69" id="anc_xiii_69"></a><a href="#footnote-xiii_69"><span class="fnanchor">[XIII_69]</span></a> and Ovid gives it a -tender epithet,<a name="anc_xiii_70" id="anc_xiii_70"></a><a href="#footnote-xiii_70"><span class="fnanchor">[XIII_70]</span></a> which delicate palates would not disavow. -Neither does this luxurious poet forget the wild strawberry,<a name="anc_xiii_71" id="anc_xiii_71"></a><a href="#footnote-xiii_71"><span class="fnanchor">[XIII_71]</span></a> which -disappears<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_116" id="page_116"></a>{116}</span> beneath its modest foliage, but whose presence the scented -air reveals. Transported to the tables of the Luculli, by the side of -its more brilliant and more beautiful sister, a flattering murmur often -bore testimony to its merit, and nature triumphed in the midst of -ingenious guests, soliciting of art what they repudiated in nature.</p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>MULBERRY TREE.</h3> - -<p>The ancient mulberry tree was considered the wisest and most prudent of -trees, because it took care, they said, not to let the smallest of its -buds come to light before the cold had entirely disappeared, not to -return. Then, however, it hastened to repair lost time, and a single -night was sufficient to see it display its beautiful flowers, which the -next morning brightly opened at the rising of Aurora.<a name="anc_xiii_72" id="anc_xiii_72"></a><a href="#footnote-xiii_72"><span class="fnanchor">[XIII_72]</span></a></p> - -<p>The voluptuous Romans, reposing late on their soft couches the day after -the fatigues of a banquet worthy of Vitellius, did not trouble -themselves much about this interesting phenomenon, which occurred, if -Pliny does not mistake, in the gardens of their villas. But they knew -that mulberries agree with the stomach, that they afford hardly any -nourishment, and easily digest:<a name="anc_xiii_73" id="anc_xiii_73"></a><a href="#footnote-xiii_73"><span class="fnanchor">[XIII_73]</span></a> therefore, no sooner had they -opened their heavy eyelids than an Egyptian boy—attentive living -bell—at a sign disappeared, and quickly returned, bearing a small -crystal vase, filled with mulberry juice and wine reduced by boiling. -This beneficent fruit preserved in this mixture all its sweet -flavour,<a name="anc_xiii_74" id="anc_xiii_74"></a><a href="#footnote-xiii_74"><span class="fnanchor">[XIII_74]</span></a> and enabled the rich patrician to await until evening -the hour for new excesses.</p> - -<p>It is quite evident that this luscious fruit was a native of Canaan, for -the high road by which the tribes of Israel went up to the feasts at -Jerusalem lay through the valley of <i>Baka</i>, or Mulberry Tree;<a name="anc_xiii_75" id="anc_xiii_75"></a><a href="#footnote-xiii_75"><span class="fnanchor">[XIII_75]</span></a> -and the whole tract of country from Ekron to Gaza abounded in these -trees.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_117" id="page_117"></a>{117}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="XIV" id="XIV"></a>XIV.<br /><br /> -SHELL FRUIT.</h2> - -<hr /> - -<h3>ALMOND TREE.</h3> - -<p>This tree, whose fruit was called at one time “Greek Nut,” and, at -another, “Thasian Nut,”<a name="anc_xiv_1" id="anc_xiv_1"></a><a href="#footnote-xiv_1"><span class="fnanchor">[XIV_1]</span></a> is a native of Paphlagonia, according to -Hermippus.<a name="anc_xiv_2" id="anc_xiv_2"></a><a href="#footnote-xiv_2"><span class="fnanchor">[XIV_2]</span></a> The nations of the east thought much of almonds, and -Jacob found them worthy of appearing among the presents he designed for -Joseph.<a name="anc_xiv_3" id="anc_xiv_3"></a><a href="#footnote-xiv_3"><span class="fnanchor">[XIV_3]</span></a> The almond tree of Naxos supplied the markets of -Athens.<a name="anc_xiv_4" id="anc_xiv_4"></a><a href="#footnote-xiv_4"><span class="fnanchor">[XIV_4]</span></a> The Romans, in their turn, sought them, and believed, -like the physician spoken of by Plutarch, that it was only necessary to -eat five or six almonds to acquire the ability of drinking -astonishingly.<a name="anc_xiv_5" id="anc_xiv_5"></a><a href="#footnote-xiv_5"><span class="fnanchor">[XIV_5]</span></a></p> - -<p>Besides, this fruit had not always so mean a destination: the disciples -of Apicius made of it one of the most delicate of dishes. Here it is, as -taught to them by their master:—</p> - -<p>Take almonds that have been pounded in a mortar, and mix them with -honey, pepper, garum, milk, eggs, and a little oil; submit the whole to -the action of a slow fire.<a name="anc_xiv_6" id="anc_xiv_6"></a><a href="#footnote-xiv_6"><span class="fnanchor">[XIV_6]</span></a></p> - -<p>The ancients were acquainted with the oil of almonds,<a name="anc_xiv_7" id="anc_xiv_7"></a><a href="#footnote-xiv_7"><span class="fnanchor">[XIV_7]</span></a> of which -they made nearly the same use as we do ourselves; but they possessed, in -addition, an infallible means of augmenting the fertility of the almond -tree. It was very simple:—A hole was made in the tree, a stone was -introduced into it,<a name="anc_xiv_8" id="anc_xiv_8"></a><a href="#footnote-xiv_8"><span class="fnanchor">[XIV_8]</span></a> and, thanks to the virtue of this new manure, -the branches soon bent under the weight of almonds.</p> - -<p>The good almonds come from Barbary and the south of France.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_118" id="page_118"></a>{118}</span> When young, -they are preserved like green apricots. They are eaten at table, fresh -or dry; in comfits, pastry, &c.: they are also used to make orgeat and -refreshing emulsions. The oil extracted from almonds, even bitter ones, -is very sweet; it is best extracted cold, by pressure. The pulp is -employed, under the name of almond paste, for several purposes, one of -which is to render the skin soft and flexible.<a name="anc_xiv_9" id="anc_xiv_9"></a><a href="#footnote-xiv_9"><span class="fnanchor">[XIV_9]</span></a></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>WALNUT TREE.</h3> - -<p>Asia, the cradle of most fruit trees, gave birth also to the walnut -tree. It is believed to be a native of Persia,<a name="anc_xiv_10" id="anc_xiv_10"></a><a href="#footnote-xiv_10"><span class="fnanchor">[XIV_10]</span></a> and its pleasing -foliage already adorned, in Biblical times, the orchards of the east. -One of the most ancient of the sacred books informs us that it was known -to the Jews,<a name="anc_xiv_11" id="anc_xiv_11"></a><a href="#footnote-xiv_11"><span class="fnanchor">[XIV_11]</span></a> and it may be inferred from a passage in the Song -of Solomon that they possessed numerous plantations of this -tree.<a name="anc_xiv_12" id="anc_xiv_12"></a><a href="#footnote-xiv_12"><span class="fnanchor">[XIV_12]</span></a></p> - -<p>Among the Persians, walnuts were not lavished on the first comer, as -with us; the sovereign reserved them for his dessert, and the people -were obliged to abstain from them. But perhaps it may be said that, -however fond this prince may have been of walnuts, he could not eat all -that were produced in his states. The objection is embarrassing, we own, -and chroniclers are silent on this point. But let us suppose that this -generous potentate distributed to his favourites the walnuts from which -his satiated appetite was compelled to abstain; and, indeed, we find -that a king of Persia sent some to the Greeks, who called them “Royal -Persian nuts,”<a name="anc_xiv_13" id="anc_xiv_13"></a><a href="#footnote-xiv_13"><span class="fnanchor">[XIV_13]</span></a> in gratitude and remembrance of the august gift.</p> - -<p>They did still better; the king of Olympus had a great liking for this -fruit, so they hastened to consecrate it to him,<a name="anc_xiv_14" id="anc_xiv_14"></a><a href="#footnote-xiv_14"><span class="fnanchor">[XIV_14]</span></a> and the “nuts -of Jupiter” were cultivated with honour in the whole of Greece.<a name="anc_xiv_15" id="anc_xiv_15"></a><a href="#footnote-xiv_15"><span class="fnanchor">[XIV_15]</span></a></p> - -<p>Italy received the walnut tree from Attica, and, by degrees, the -conquerors of the world introduced it to the different countries of -Europe.</p> - -<p>The Romans, imitators of the piety of the Greeks, placed this tree also -under the protection of the most powerful of their gods. One of their -most whimsical customs, perhaps, owed its origin to this consecration, -which will serve to explain it:—<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_119" id="page_119"></a>{119}</span></p> - -<p>After the wedding feast the bridegroom strewed in the nuptial chamber, -at night, several baskets of walnuts, which children hastened to pick -up.<a name="anc_xiv_16" id="anc_xiv_16"></a><a href="#footnote-xiv_16"><span class="fnanchor">[XIV_16]</span></a> This was, they said, a kind of offering to Jupiter, and thus -he was entreated to grant his supreme patronage to the husband, and to -adorn the wife with the virtues of Juno.<a name="anc_xiv_17" id="anc_xiv_17"></a><a href="#footnote-xiv_17"><span class="fnanchor">[XIV_17]</span></a> The god could not have -failed to smile at this part of the request of blind mortals, and it is -asserted that, at times, he condescended not to grant it.</p> - -<p>Others have given a different interpretation. According to them, the -walnut, being covered with a double envelope when fresh, became a -presage of abundance and prosperity.<a name="anc_xiv_18" id="anc_xiv_18"></a><a href="#footnote-xiv_18"><span class="fnanchor">[XIV_18]</span></a></p> - -<p>It would be too tedious to relate all the singular opinions to which -this ceremony gave rise. The most reasonable appears to be that adopted -by certain commentators:—Walnuts, say they, served as playthings for -children, and, by throwing them on the ground the day of his wedding, -the bridegroom made it understood that he and his companion renounced -the frivolities of youth, henceforth to devote themselves to the serious -exigencies of a family.<a name="anc_xiv_19" id="anc_xiv_19"></a><a href="#footnote-xiv_19"><span class="fnanchor">[XIV_19]</span></a></p> - -<p>This fruit was considered astringent,<a name="anc_xiv_20" id="anc_xiv_20"></a><a href="#footnote-xiv_20"><span class="fnanchor">[XIV_20]</span></a> stomachic, and proper to -facilitate digestion.<a name="anc_xiv_21" id="anc_xiv_21"></a><a href="#footnote-xiv_21"><span class="fnanchor">[XIV_21]</span></a> It was made into preserve, and eaten in -small quantity, mixed with figs. In this manner paralysis of the tongue -was avoided—an effect to which it was believed those who partook of -them to excess were exposed.<a name="anc_xiv_22" id="anc_xiv_22"></a><a href="#footnote-xiv_22"><span class="fnanchor">[XIV_22]</span></a> Green walnuts were much esteemed; -they were served at dessert,<a name="anc_xiv_23" id="anc_xiv_23"></a><a href="#footnote-xiv_23"><span class="fnanchor">[XIV_23]</span></a> notwithstanding the opinion of -Heraclides, of Tarentum, who looked upon them as a stimulant to the -appetite, and advised a trial of them at the beginning of a -repast.<a name="anc_xiv_24" id="anc_xiv_24"></a><a href="#footnote-xiv_24"><span class="fnanchor">[XIV_24]</span></a></p> - -<p>When Pompey had made himself master of the palace of Mithridates, he had -search made everywhere for the recipe of the famous antidote against -poison used by that king. At length it was found; it was very simple: -however, we offer it to the curious:—</p> - -<p>Pound, with care, two walnuts, two dried figs, twenty leaves of rue, and -a grain of salt.<a name="anc_xiv_25" id="anc_xiv_25"></a><a href="#footnote-xiv_25"><span class="fnanchor">[XIV_25]</span></a> Swallow this mixture—precipitate it by the -assistance of a little wine, and you have nothing to fear from the most -active poison for the space of twenty-four hours.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_120" id="page_120"></a>{120}</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>NUT TREE.</h3> - -<p>The Greeks gave hazel nuts the name of “Pontic Nuts,” and Theophrastus -calls them “Nuts of Heraclea,” because the territory of that capital of -the kingdom of Pontus produced the best.<a name="anc_xiv_26" id="anc_xiv_26"></a><a href="#footnote-xiv_26"><span class="fnanchor">[XIV_26]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Latins, at first, retained the same designation for this fruit, but -afterwards, the environs of Præneste and Avellinum supplying them with a -great quantity of excellent nuts, they gave them the name of those two -cities.<a name="anc_xiv_27" id="anc_xiv_27"></a><a href="#footnote-xiv_27"><span class="fnanchor">[XIV_27]</span></a> They employed also a diminitive<a name="anc_xiv_28" id="anc_xiv_28"></a><a href="#footnote-xiv_28"><span class="fnanchor">[XIV_28]</span></a> to indicate -those which came from the first of these localities. The French -<i>Aveline</i> (filbert), and <i>Noisette</i> (hazel nuts), are evidently borrowed -from the Roman vocabulary.</p> - -<p>The inhabitants of Præneste raised the nut tree to a sort of religious -worship. This tree had preserved them from famine during the time -Hannibal besieged their city,<a name="anc_xiv_29" id="anc_xiv_29"></a><a href="#footnote-xiv_29"><span class="fnanchor">[XIV_29]</span></a> and since that memorable epoch it -had enriched them, for the ancients preferred hazel nuts to all other -shell fruit, as possessing most wholesome and nourishing -qualities.<a name="anc_xiv_30" id="anc_xiv_30"></a><a href="#footnote-xiv_30"><span class="fnanchor">[XIV_30]</span></a></p> - -<p>It was the custom in France, some centuries ago, at the time of the -summer solstice (Midsummer eve), to take all the kitchen utensils and -make the most frightful clatter by knocking them one against another. -The simpletons of those times imagined that there were no better means -of preventing the rain, which, in their opinion, was detrimental to -filberts and hazel nuts.<a name="anc_xiv_31" id="anc_xiv_31"></a><a href="#footnote-xiv_31"><span class="fnanchor">[XIV_31]</span></a> Hospinian, who relates this ridiculous -custom, does not tell us what results they obtained by all their racket.</p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>PISTACHIO TREE.</h3> - -<p>This tree, esteemed by the Romans,<a name="anc_xiv_32" id="anc_xiv_32"></a><a href="#footnote-xiv_32"><span class="fnanchor">[XIV_32]</span></a> is a native of India.<a name="anc_xiv_33" id="anc_xiv_33"></a><a href="#footnote-xiv_33"><span class="fnanchor">[XIV_33]</span></a> -Lucius Vitellius brought some plants of it from Syria to Rome, under the -reign of Tiberius; a little time subsequently, a knight, named Flaccus -Pompeius, introduced it also into Spain.<a name="anc_xiv_34" id="anc_xiv_34"></a><a href="#footnote-xiv_34"><span class="fnanchor">[XIV_34]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_121" id="page_121"></a>{121}</span></p> - -<p>Galen doubted whether pistachio nuts were good for the stomach.<a name="anc_xiv_35" id="anc_xiv_35"></a><a href="#footnote-xiv_35"><span class="fnanchor">[XIV_35]</span></a> -Avicenna proved the contrary;<a name="anc_xiv_36" id="anc_xiv_36"></a><a href="#footnote-xiv_36"><span class="fnanchor">[XIV_36]</span></a> and several centuries before the -Arabian physician, Roman epicures had courageously demonstrated that -this fruit never does harm in whatever form it may be presented, whether -raw or roasted, alone or accompanied with garum and salt.</p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>CHESNUT TREE.</h3> - -<p>According to some writers the chesnut tree owes its name to the city of -Castana, in Thessaly, where they maintained it originated. On the -contrary, it comes from Sardis, in Lydia, if we are to believe the -physician, Diphilus, who calls chesnuts, acorns of Sardis, and says they -are nourishing, but indigestible.<a name="anc_xiv_37" id="anc_xiv_37"></a><a href="#footnote-xiv_37"><span class="fnanchor">[XIV_37]</span></a></p> - -<p>Amaryllis was fond of this fruit;<a name="anc_xiv_38" id="anc_xiv_38"></a><a href="#footnote-xiv_38"><span class="fnanchor">[XIV_38]</span></a> but Amaryllis was only a -shepherdess, and her beauty did not prevent her from having rather -rustic tastes. The Roman ladies abandoned the chesnut to that low class -of citizens whose palates, incapable of improvement, remain always -stationary in the midst of the incessant progress of cookery; sad -example of invincible frugality, which the most exciting <i>fumets</i> fail -to arouse.</p> - -<p>Nevertheless, there was a soft and tender species of chesnut, <i>Castaneæ -molles</i>,<a name="anc_xiv_39" id="anc_xiv_39"></a><a href="#footnote-xiv_39"><span class="fnanchor">[XIV_39]</span></a> which were allowed on some of the tables of the higher -class of citizens, and recommended themselves by their delicate pulp to -the attention of the guests;<a name="anc_xiv_40" id="anc_xiv_40"></a><a href="#footnote-xiv_40"><span class="fnanchor">[XIV_40]</span></a> perhaps oil of chesnuts was -obtained from this particular kind.<a name="anc_xiv_41" id="anc_xiv_41"></a><a href="#footnote-xiv_41"><span class="fnanchor">[XIV_41]</span></a></p> - -<p>To render the chesnuts more agreeable and wholesome they must be pealed -of their skins, which is very tough; put into boiling water, it -penetrates and softens the bitter pellicle (the tan) covering them, and -facilitates its removal from the floury substance. When the chesnuts can -be easily stripped of this pellicle by the pressure of the fingers, take -the jar from the fire; shake them well on all sides. The tan will soon -detach itself from their surface, and be altogether removed; then take -them out, and after they have been shaken in a sieve made purposely, -they are washed in cold water, to take away, with what remains of the -tan, the bitter water they may have preserved; they are then cooked -without water, in a well-covered vessel, and upon a moderate fire.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_122" id="page_122"></a>{122}</span></p> - -<p>“To eat chesnuts green all the year, boil them in water for fifteen or -twenty minutes; put them afterwards in a common oven, one hour after the -bread has been taken out. By this double operation the chesnuts acquire -a degree of cooking and desiccation, by which they can be preserved a -very long time, provided they are kept in a dry place. They can be used -afterwards by putting them to warm in a <i>bain-marie</i>.”—<span class="smcap">Dutour.</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>POMEGRANATE.</h3> - -<p>Ceres, disconsolate on account of the loss of her daughter, to whom -Pluto destined the sceptre of Hell, implored the ruler of Olympus to -restore Proserpine. Jupiter promised that the favour should be granted, -provided that she had not partaken of anything in the infernal regions. -Now, she had eaten some grains of a pomegranate; very few indeed; some -serious authors have said three; others, quite as respectable, say nine. -The fact is, however, Proserpine had broken her fast; therefore she -might think herself fortunate in being allowed to pass six months on -earth and six months in the abode of darkness.<a name="anc_xiv_42" id="anc_xiv_42"></a><a href="#footnote-xiv_42"><span class="fnanchor">[XIV_42]</span></a></p> - -<p>This little mythologic story informs us that the pomegranate tree was -known to antiquity, and that the garden of the Elysian fields contained -most excellent fruit for the use of its melancholy inhabitants.</p> - -<p>The pomegranate, whose acidulated flavour is so pleasing to the -inhabitants of hot climates, was first cultivated in the east, then in -Africa, but especially in the environs of Carthage, from whence the -Romans brought it into Italy, where it was commonly called the -Carthaginian apple;<a name="anc_xiv_43" id="anc_xiv_43"></a><a href="#footnote-xiv_43"><span class="fnanchor">[XIV_43]</span></a> it was also named <i>Granatum</i>, on account of -the number of its seeds.<a name="anc_xiv_44" id="anc_xiv_44"></a><a href="#footnote-xiv_44"><span class="fnanchor">[XIV_44]</span></a></p> - -<p>Pliny distinguishes five different species of promegranate;<a name="anc_xiv_45" id="anc_xiv_45"></a><a href="#footnote-xiv_45"><span class="fnanchor">[XIV_45]</span></a> -Columella teaches the way to rear this tree;<a name="anc_xiv_46" id="anc_xiv_46"></a><a href="#footnote-xiv_46"><span class="fnanchor">[XIV_46]</span></a> and Apicius treats -of the preservation of its fruit, to do which it is only necessary to -plunge it in boiling water, take it out immediately, and suspend it from -the ceiling.<a name="anc_xiv_47" id="anc_xiv_47"></a><a href="#footnote-xiv_47"><span class="fnanchor">[XIV_47]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Greeks were very fond of pomegranates. The finest came from Attica, -so celebrated by the genius of its inhabitants; and from -Bœotia,<a name="anc_xiv_48" id="anc_xiv_48"></a><a href="#footnote-xiv_48"><span class="fnanchor">[XIV_48]</span></a> that privileged soil, where agriculture and stupidity -flourished together.<a name="anc_xiv_49" id="anc_xiv_49"></a><a href="#footnote-xiv_49"><span class="fnanchor">[XIV_49]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_123" id="page_123"></a>{123}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="XV" id="XV"></a>XV.<br /><br /> -ANIMAL FOOD.</h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">Bread</span>, vegetables, and fruit for a long time provided man with a -sufficient and easy alimentation.<a name="anc_xv_1" id="anc_xv_1"></a><a href="#footnote-xv_1"><span class="fnanchor">[XV_1]</span></a> Wandering with his flocks in -search of cool pasture, he only exacted their wool wherewith to make the -clothing requisite for his migratory life;<a name="anc_xv_2" id="anc_xv_2"></a><a href="#footnote-xv_2"><span class="fnanchor">[XV_2]</span></a> their services to -assist him in hollowing a difficult furrow;<a name="anc_xv_3" id="anc_xv_3"></a><a href="#footnote-xv_3"><span class="fnanchor">[XV_3]</span></a> and their first-born -as a most agreeable offering to the all-powerful master of heaven and -earth.<a name="anc_xv_4" id="anc_xv_4"></a><a href="#footnote-xv_4"><span class="fnanchor">[XV_4]</span></a> We may also suppose that, in the pastoral ages, the -wandering tribes of Asia added to their vegetable food the milk of their -ewes, goats, or cows, although it is not mentioned in the Book of -Genesis<a name="anc_xv_5" id="anc_xv_5"></a><a href="#footnote-xv_5"><span class="fnanchor">[XV_5]</span></a> at a very early period, it is true, but which forms a -nourishment nature seems to point out as proper to infancy and old -age;<a name="anc_xv_6" id="anc_xv_6"></a><a href="#footnote-xv_6"><span class="fnanchor">[XV_6]</span></a> mankind, therefore, abstained from animal food during many -centuries.<a name="anc_xv_7" id="anc_xv_7"></a><a href="#footnote-xv_7"><span class="fnanchor">[XV_7]</span></a> Ecclesiastical and profane writers seem to agree on -this point.<a name="anc_xv_8" id="anc_xv_8"></a><a href="#footnote-xv_8"><span class="fnanchor">[XV_8]</span></a> Habit had not yet produced disgust, and curiosity, the -fatal mother of experience and sensuality. To eat was for them the most -natural and simple action of life. The art of cookery tries, makes -choice, and improves: that art did not exist.</p> - -<p>The frightful cataclysm which overthrew the world, and of which the -history of every nation gives proofs more or less confused, came to -modify this state of things. “Men were obliged to be fed with more -substantial food,”<a name="anc_xv_9" id="anc_xv_9"></a><a href="#footnote-xv_9"><span class="fnanchor">[XV_9]</span></a> and our forefathers were allowed to add to -vegetables and the herbs of the country, “animated beings, and all that -which had life and motion.”<a name="anc_xv_10" id="anc_xv_10"></a><a href="#footnote-xv_10"><span class="fnanchor">[XV_10]</span></a></p> - -<p>The magiric science, therefore, began in the year of the world 1656.</p> - -<p>From that period, indeed, the cooking of meat, however little -complicated it may have been, required an attention, care, and study, -which<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_124" id="page_124"></a>{124}</span> prepared the development of that marvellous faculty to which no -possible limit can be assigned—the last to disappear, and to which, in -fact, are related nearly all the actions of human life—<i>the sense of -taste</i>.</p> - -<p>Heathen authors, guided by the lights of reason, some gleams of -tradition, and perhaps not absolutely strangers to the writings of -Moses, agree pretty well on the diet of the Golden Age;<a name="anc_xv_11" id="anc_xv_11"></a><a href="#footnote-xv_11"><span class="fnanchor">[XV_11]</span></a> that age -of innocence, acorns, and happiness,<a name="anc_xv_12" id="anc_xv_12"></a><a href="#footnote-xv_12"><span class="fnanchor">[XV_12]</span></a> when everywhere were seen -streams of milk, and nectar, and honey, flowing from the hollow oaks and -other trees of the forests.<a name="anc_xv_13" id="anc_xv_13"></a><a href="#footnote-xv_13"><span class="fnanchor">[XV_13]</span></a></p> - -<p>But when the question is to point out the time at which the use of -animal food was introduced, ideas become clouded, and highly intelligent -minds, bewildered by the obscurity which envelops the subject, have -frequently appealed to absurd legends and ridiculous fables, invoking -the aid of their false and contested authority.</p> - -<p>Xenocrates pretends that Triptolemus forbad the Athenians to eat -animals.<a name="anc_xv_14" id="anc_xv_14"></a><a href="#footnote-xv_14"><span class="fnanchor">[XV_14]</span></a> Man must, then, have been still frugivorous for four -centuries after the Deluge.</p> - -<p>This opinion found contradictors, who maintained that man contented -himself with fruit only because fire was wanting to cook meat; but -Prometheus came, and taught him how to draw the useful element from the -flint which concealed it, and was the first to venture on the sacrifice -of an ox.<a name="anc_xv_15" id="anc_xv_15"></a><a href="#footnote-xv_15"><span class="fnanchor">[XV_15]</span></a> This happened in the year of the world 2412.<a name="anc_xv_16" id="anc_xv_16"></a><a href="#footnote-xv_16"><span class="fnanchor">[XV_16]</span></a></p> - -<p>All this is a mistake, say other and very sensible writers; here is the -truth on this difficult point: The goddess Ceres had sown a field, and -the wheat came up as desired, when a pig entered, tumbled about, and -caused considerable damage, which so irritated the lady that she -punished him with death. Now, as a pig is good for nothing except to -eat, this one was eaten; and from that day, so fatal to the swinish -race, mankind learnt to appreciate the flesh of animals.<a name="anc_xv_17" id="anc_xv_17"></a><a href="#footnote-xv_17"><span class="fnanchor">[XV_17]</span></a></p> - -<p>At the same time, Bacchus killed a goat he found nibbling at the -tendrils of his darling vines;<a name="anc_xv_18" id="anc_xv_18"></a><a href="#footnote-xv_18"><span class="fnanchor">[XV_18]</span></a> and Hyberbius, son of Mars, and a -slasher, like his father, amused himself by killing another, in order to -become familiar thus early with scenes of combat.<a name="anc_xv_19" id="anc_xv_19"></a><a href="#footnote-xv_19"><span class="fnanchor">[XV_19]</span></a> These goats -were roasted; and as experience had as yet furnished no rule of -comparison, and formed no taste—that exquisite sentiment of the -beautiful in the plastic arts, and of the good in the culinary -science—it was decided that this dish was very tolerable.</p> - -<p>Hitherto the bovine race had only lost one individual: its sad<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_125" id="page_125"></a>{125}</span> destiny -began in the year 1506, before our era, under the reign of the fourth -king of Athens, Erichtonius, on a day of great solemnity, when an ox, -pressed probably by hunger, came near the altar, and devoured one of the -sacred cakes which heathen piety had dedicated to Jupiter. The zealous -Diomus rushed forward, and pierced the heart of the sacrilegious -quadruped.</p> - -<p>It might be supposed that the anger of the god was immediately appeased; -but no! the terrible Jupiter knitted his brows; Olympus was in great -agitation; and pestilence came, and spread its ravages amongst the -Athenians.</p> - -<p>“All did not die, but all were struck;”<a name="anc_xv_20" id="anc_xv_20"></a><a href="#footnote-xv_20"><span class="fnanchor">[XV_20]</span></a> and, to propitiate the -implacable scourge, they thought of nothing better than to institute the -Buphonic Feast, which happily re-established their health, and which -they continued to celebrate every year. They sacrificed an ox,<a name="anc_xv_21" id="anc_xv_21"></a><a href="#footnote-xv_21"><span class="fnanchor">[XV_21]</span></a> -offered a piece to Jupiter, and the faithful divided the rest among -themselves.</p> - -<p>At Tyre, in Phœnicia, meat was consumed on the altar, but the gods -had the profit of it, and nobody else. Some fruit and a few vegetables -were sufficient for the frugality of people enjoying innocent and -primitive customs. But it happened, in the time of Pygmalion,<a name="anc_xv_22" id="anc_xv_22"></a><a href="#footnote-xv_22"><span class="fnanchor">[XV_22]</span></a> -that a young sacrificer having perceived that a piece of the victim had -fallen, hastened to pick it up and replace it carefully on the fire of -the altar. In the performance of this operation he burned his fingers, -and instantly put them into his mouth, to lessen the pain. As he could -not help tasting the fat with which they were covered, the greedy young -man experienced a new sensation, which tempted him to swallow a -mouthful—then a second—a portion of the victim was eaten; he put -another piece under his cloak, and, with his wife, made the finest -supper in his life. All went on very well until the prince, being -informed of this profanation, loaded them with reproaches, and condemned -both to the punishment of death.</p> - -<p>Gluttony, however, is rash: other sacrificers ate—at first in -secret—of this forbidden food; then they were imitated; and, at last, -by degrees meat passed from the altar of the gods, who did not taste it, -to the tables of mortals, who feasted upon it.<a name="anc_xv_23" id="anc_xv_23"></a><a href="#footnote-xv_23"><span class="fnanchor">[XV_23]</span></a> People may or may -not believe this anecdote, which informs us in so satisfactory a manner -of the epoch at which man, from being frugivorous, became carnivorous; -but one thing is certain, that in the time of Homer (there is only -eighty years between him and Pygmalion), the flesh of animals was then -much<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_126" id="page_126"></a>{126}</span> in fashion, for we read of his giving to his heroes, as their -principal food, a whole hog, three years old, and oxen roasted—not even -jointed.<a name="anc_xv_24" id="anc_xv_24"></a><a href="#footnote-xv_24"><span class="fnanchor">[XV_24]</span></a></p> - -<p>Some ideologists and dreamers have risen against the use of meat; their -declamations, often very eloquent, have been read; but, from Pythagoras, -a sublime and honest enthusiast, down to the whimsical J. J. -Rousseau—who, by-the-by, was very fond of mutton chops and <i>bœuf à -la mode</i>, although he exclaimed against the cruelty of mankind, whose -hands were stained with the blood of animals—no nation has yet -determined to adopt the patriarchal diet of the first ages of the world.</p> - -<p>Plutarch was a vegetarian; and we possess one of his treatises, in which -he endeavours to prove that flesh is not the natural food of man.<a name="anc_xv_25" id="anc_xv_25"></a><a href="#footnote-xv_25"><span class="fnanchor">[XV_25]</span></a> -As a conclusive answer—meat was eaten. So, when an ancient philosopher -one day denied the movement of matter, a person reduced him to silence -by walking.</p> - -<p>But, if animal diet has, from time to time, met with a small number of -detractors, what an immense crowd of apologists and adepts has it not -also found! It would signify nothing to name individuals; let us point -out whole nations. Who is not acquainted with the delicacy and luxury of -the Assyrians and Persians? Who is not aware that the genius of the -Greeks improved the culinary art, and that their cooks were famous in -history? What of the Syracusans, whose dainty and curious ideas passed -as a proverb; and of the Athenians, who were so passionately fond of the -pleasures of the table; or of Naples, Tarentum, and Sybaris, so -celebrated for their good cheer? The Romans surpassed even these -refinements and sumptuous repasts: theirs is the honour of the pontiffs’ -feasts, the excesses of Capreæ, the profusions of Vitellius, of Galba, -Nero, and Caligula. They have the honour of the banquet of Geta, which -lasted three days, and ended by exhausting the alphabetic list of all -the dishes that the universe could supply.</p> - -<p>May heaven preserve us from imitating such prodigies of intemperance and -gluttonous folly; but let us, at least, be allowed to use with -moderation the good that Providence has granted us, and which it has not -forbidden us to make agreeable and savoury. The inhabitants of the air, -earth, and water, entered within our domains, as well as the fruits of -the fields, on the day when the Creator condescended to say to his -creature:</p> - -<p>“Every moving thing that liveth shall be meat for you; even as the green -herb have I given you all things.”<a name="anc_xv_26" id="anc_xv_26"></a><a href="#footnote-xv_26"><span class="fnanchor">[XV_26]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_127" id="page_127"></a>{127}</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>REARING OF CATTLE.</h3> - -<p>All ancient legislators have bestowed the most serious attention to the -rearing and preservation of cattle. The Mosaic law, in this respect, -enters into details which reveal the most profound wisdom, a delicate -and minute research which cannot be too much admired.</p> - -<p>More attentive to propagate useful animals than to flatter the -sensuality of nations, this law forbids their being mutilated;<a name="anc_xv_27" id="anc_xv_27"></a><a href="#footnote-xv_27"><span class="fnanchor">[XV_27]</span></a> it -requires the Hebrews to treat with generosity the companions of their -labour;<a name="anc_xv_28" id="anc_xv_28"></a><a href="#footnote-xv_28"><span class="fnanchor">[XV_28]</span></a> that they shall interest themselves in the preservation -of their brother’s, and even of their enemies’ oxen;<a name="anc_xv_29" id="anc_xv_29"></a><a href="#footnote-xv_29"><span class="fnanchor">[XV_29]</span></a> that -different species of unequal strength shall not be yoked together to the -plough;<a name="anc_xv_30" id="anc_xv_30"></a><a href="#footnote-xv_30"><span class="fnanchor">[XV_30]</span></a> and, in order that the cattle may not suffer from an -excess of hard and constant labour, Moses assures to them at least one -day of rest in a week.<a name="anc_xv_31" id="anc_xv_31"></a><a href="#footnote-xv_31"><span class="fnanchor">[XV_31]</span></a></p> - -<p>It is well known with what care the patriarchs surrounded their flocks; -for them they wandered from region to region, and only stopped where -pasture was abundant.<a name="anc_xv_32" id="anc_xv_32"></a><a href="#footnote-xv_32"><span class="fnanchor">[XV_32]</span></a> In imitation of those fathers of nations, -the princes of the East, and the Grecian chiefs, were at first -shepherds;<a name="anc_xv_33" id="anc_xv_33"></a><a href="#footnote-xv_33"><span class="fnanchor">[XV_33]</span></a> and were, perhaps, indebted to the innocent -occupations of the fields for the sweet and sacred title of pastors of -man.<a name="anc_xv_34" id="anc_xv_34"></a><a href="#footnote-xv_34"><span class="fnanchor">[XV_34]</span></a></p> - -<p>The founder of Rome did not forget the flocks and herds, in those famous -laws which were to assure the prosperity of his rising city;<a name="anc_xv_35" id="anc_xv_35"></a><a href="#footnote-xv_35"><span class="fnanchor">[XV_35]</span></a> one -of them allowed the possessor of an estate to take up the acorns which -might fall into his field from his neighbour’s property,<a name="anc_xv_36" id="anc_xv_36"></a><a href="#footnote-xv_36"><span class="fnanchor">[XV_36]</span></a> and to -divide them among the cattle he is rearing.</p> - -<p>Under the republic, it was severely forbidden to ill-use beasts of -burthen and others. By the Licinian law, each farmer was required to -proportion the number of his sheep and oxen to the extent of his -land;<a name="anc_xv_37" id="anc_xv_37"></a><a href="#footnote-xv_37"><span class="fnanchor">[XV_37]</span></a> the Thorian law contains very wise regulations relative to -the quality and keeping up of pasture.<a name="anc_xv_38" id="anc_xv_38"></a><a href="#footnote-xv_38"><span class="fnanchor">[XV_38]</span></a> Moreover, it is to be -remarked, that the Romans never fixed the limits of a rural property, -nor formed a new colony, without giving their first care to the spots -appointed to feed their flocks,<a name="anc_xv_39" id="anc_xv_39"></a><a href="#footnote-xv_39"><span class="fnanchor">[XV_39]</span></a> the quiet possession of which was -assured by the Emperors. Adrian, among others, did not encourage -thieves. This prince ordered that whoever carried away cattle grazing in -meadows should be condemned<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_128" id="page_128"></a>{128}</span> to work in the mines; that those who should -have been convicted of robbery several times should be beheaded; and -that thieves found with arms in their hands should become the prey of -wild beasts.<a name="anc_xv_40" id="anc_xv_40"></a><a href="#footnote-xv_40"><span class="fnanchor">[XV_40]</span></a></p> - -<p>Illustrious families by birth often added to their name a sort of -epithet, originating either from bulls, goats, or sheep, which were -brought up on the land of their villas. This singular custom proves the -extraordinary attachment which the Romans had for their flocks. One of -these enthusiasts, Tremellius Scrofa,<a name="anc_xv_41" id="anc_xv_41"></a><a href="#footnote-xv_41"><span class="fnanchor">[XV_41]</span></a> had written a treatise on -the art of assorting and feeding cattle.<a name="anc_xv_42" id="anc_xv_42"></a><a href="#footnote-xv_42"><span class="fnanchor">[XV_42]</span></a> Greek and Latin -geoponics have also transmitted to us some details full of interest, and -which often contain most useful information upon the various species of -animals which the ancients preferred, and the particular care they took -in the preservation and development of various breeds.<a name="anc_xv_43" id="anc_xv_43"></a><a href="#footnote-xv_43"><span class="fnanchor">[XV_43]</span></a> Pagan -theology reckoned among its thirty thousand gods<a name="anc_xv_44" id="anc_xv_44"></a><a href="#footnote-xv_44"><span class="fnanchor">[XV_44]</span></a> some few -protective divinities of flocks. The shepherds invoked Pales<a name="anc_xv_45" id="anc_xv_45"></a><a href="#footnote-xv_45"><span class="fnanchor">[XV_45]</span></a> and -Anna Perenna;<a name="anc_xv_46" id="anc_xv_46"></a><a href="#footnote-xv_46"><span class="fnanchor">[XV_46]</span></a> dealers of oxen offered sacrifices to -Bubona,<a name="anc_xv_47" id="anc_xv_47"></a><a href="#footnote-xv_47"><span class="fnanchor">[XV_47]</span></a> whose special care it was to see that they were fat and -healthy.</p> - -<p>The animals chosen to be fattened were put under the protection of this -deity, and were fed in the following manner:</p> - -<p>The first day they had given to them cabbages, soaked in vinegar; then, -for five days, straw, mixed with wheat bran; from the seventh day they -had nothing but bruised barley, which was gradually and judiciously -increased till the twelfth day. These oxen were fed at midnight, at -break of day, at twelve o’clock, and at three in the afternoon. They -were allowed to drink only twice—that is, after the third and fourth -meal.<a name="anc_xv_48" id="anc_xv_48"></a><a href="#footnote-xv_48"><span class="fnanchor">[XV_48]</span></a> On the thirteenth day they were led to market.</p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>MARKETS.</h3> - -<p>The Hebrews held their cattle market at the gates of their cities; and -from this circumstance, perhaps, is derived those expressions so -frequent in the sacred writings: “The gates of the flocks,” “The sheep’s -gate,” &c.,<a name="anc_xv_49" id="anc_xv_49"></a><a href="#footnote-xv_49"><span class="fnanchor">[XV_49]</span></a> which no doubt designated the different quarters of -Jerusalem where shepherds and cattle dealers were accustomed to -congregate.</p> - -<p>Among the Greeks, vast, airy, public places, used to receive, under<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_129" id="page_129"></a>{129}</span> the -orders, and with the authorisation of the <i>Epimeletes</i>, or curators, the -animals and meat necessary for the subsistence of the citizens.</p> - -<p>At Rome, the horned cattle market was situated in the eighth region, -behind the Capitoline Mount.<a name="anc_xv_50" id="anc_xv_50"></a><a href="#footnote-xv_50"><span class="fnanchor">[XV_50]</span></a> It was a magnificent place, -surrounded with beautiful galleries, in the midst of which stood on its -pedestal, a gigantic brazen bull, at a little distance from the temple -of Hercules—a round, mean edifice<a name="anc_xv_51" id="anc_xv_51"></a><a href="#footnote-xv_51"><span class="fnanchor">[XV_51]</span></a>—where dealers and their -customers went to adore this god, the patron of butchers.</p> - -<p>The way to reach the pig market was by going round the Quirinal Mount, -near the bronze horses of Tyridates, in the seventh region of the -town.<a name="anc_xv_52" id="anc_xv_52"></a><a href="#footnote-xv_52"><span class="fnanchor">[XV_52]</span></a> This market was the most important of all, on account of -the immense consumption of pork by the Romans.</p> - -<p>As soon as the officer of the Roman præfect appeared, the principal -butchers gathered round him; he examined the cattle, regulated the sale, -and fixed a price on the meat, from which they were not allowed to -deviate,<a name="anc_xv_53" id="anc_xv_53"></a><a href="#footnote-xv_53"><span class="fnanchor">[XV_53]</span></a> and then only was the market open.</p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>BUTCHERS.</h3> - -<p>Nothing among the Greeks indicates that they had butchers in the heroic -ages. The warriors of Homer had no want of them, so great was their -skill in cutting up the enormous pieces placed before them.<a name="anc_xv_54" id="anc_xv_54"></a><a href="#footnote-xv_54"><span class="fnanchor">[XV_54]</span></a> -Ulysses acquired a reputation by his dexterity in this art; and it is -more than probable that his martial companions also distinguished -themselves by this kind of merit.</p> - -<p>As soon as luxury had introduced into Greece that effeminate kind of -existence which only permits certain men to be engaged in the painful or -repulsive details of every-day life, <i>bouthutes</i>, or bullock -slaughterers, became indispensable; and of them the meat was bought by -the pound—weighed in the scale as now.<a name="anc_xv_55" id="anc_xv_55"></a><a href="#footnote-xv_55"><span class="fnanchor">[XV_55]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Romans had, at first, butchers who dealt in the same way, and who -continued to do so for a long time; but they afterwards employed the -following most extravagant method. The buyer shut one of his hands; the -seller did the same; each of them suddenly opened the whole or a few of -his fingers. If the fingers were even on each side, the seller had the -price he pleased; if they were odd, the buyer gave<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_130" id="page_130"></a>{130}</span> his own price. This -was called <i>micare</i>.<a name="anc_xv_56" id="anc_xv_56"></a><a href="#footnote-xv_56"><span class="fnanchor">[XV_56]</span></a> The mication was suppressed in the year 360, -by a decree of Apronianus, which is worth quoting, because it points out -in a clear and precise manner the attributions of the Roman butcher, and -the system of sale since followed:—</p> - -<p>“Reason and experience have proved to us, that it is of public utility -to suppress the practice of mication for the sale of cattle, and that it -is more advisable to sell by weight than to trust to a game with the -fingers. We, therefore, ordain that, after the weight of the animal is -ascertained, the head, feet, and tallow, shall belong to the butcher who -has killed, prepared, and cut it up: this shall be his wages. The skin, -flesh, and entrails, shall belong to the master-butcher who is to retail -it. In this manner, the buyer and seller will know the weight of the -meat on sale, and each will find this method to his advantage. * * * We -will and decree that this ordinance be executed for ever, under pain of -death.”<a name="anc_xv_57" id="anc_xv_57"></a><a href="#footnote-xv_57"><span class="fnanchor">[XV_57]</span></a></p> - -<p>There were at first, in Rome, two corporations or colleges of butchers: -one had to take care that the city was always sufficiently supplied with -oxen, calves, and sheep:<a name="anc_xv_58" id="anc_xv_58"></a><a href="#footnote-xv_58"><span class="fnanchor">[XV_58]</span></a> the other was to provide that immense -capital with the quantity of hogs necessary;<a name="anc_xv_59" id="anc_xv_59"></a><a href="#footnote-xv_59"><span class="fnanchor">[XV_59]</span></a> and it would be -difficult to form an idea of the number consumed by the Romans. Every -day a distribution was made to the people, by Valentinian’s order, of -24,086 pounds and eight ounces of pork; to this amount, already -considerable, must be added the truly prodigious daily sale; for the -entire population, from the highest to the lowest, were all passionately -fond of this kind of food.<a name="anc_xv_60" id="anc_xv_60"></a><a href="#footnote-xv_60"><span class="fnanchor">[XV_60]</span></a></p> - -<p>The obligations and privileges of these two corporate bodies were nearly -the same as those of the bakers.<a name="anc_xv_61" id="anc_xv_61"></a><a href="#footnote-xv_61"><span class="fnanchor">[XV_61]</span></a> The children could not, under -any pretext whatsoever, abandon the trade of their fathers, without</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_131" id="page_131"></a>{131}</span></p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="c">DESCRIPTION OF PLATE No. VIII.</p> - -<p>Scales and Weights.—The ancients had several species of scales. -No. 1. A common scale, with two basins, and a movable weight, which -is made in the form of a head, covered with the pileus, because -Mercury had the weights and measures under his superintendence. -This ornamented scale is engraved on a stone in the gallery of -Florence.</p> - -<p>No. 2. The Roman scale, beautifully made, with one tray, several -hooks, and the movable weight, in the shape of a shell.</p> - -<p>No. 3. Common heavy weight.</p> - -<p>No. 4. The Roman weights had the form of a sphere, partly cut above -and below; the greatest number of those which still subsist are of -basalt. The number of ounces, or of pounds, is commonly engraved on -the top, or inlaid with silver. All round it are inscriptions with -the name of the temple where they were preserved after they had -been stamped, together with the name of the prince, or the præfect -before whom the standard mark was made.</p> -<p> -On No. 4, is “D. N. Honori. Aug. Domini nostri Honorii Augusti;” -and on No. 5, “Temp. Opis. Aug.,” or the temple of Opis Augusta.</p> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="pl_VIII" id="pl_VIII"></a> -<a href="images/ill_pg_130_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_130_sml.jpg" width="295" height="464" alt="Image not available: Pl. 8." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">Pl. 8.</span> -</div> - -<p class="nind">incurring the entire loss of their share in the common benefit allowed -by the college. And, be it remembered, this trade was very lucrative, so -much so that those who followed it in Rome always enjoyed a degree of -opulence which sometimes caused the people to murmur. They elected from -among themselves a chief, who judged their differences; he was, however, -subordinate to the præfect of Rome.<a name="anc_xv_62" id="anc_xv_62"></a><a href="#footnote-xv_62"><span class="fnanchor">[XV_62]</span></a></p> - -<p>The members of the two corporations cut, weighed, and retailed the meat; -they had under them working butchers, who killed, skinned, and trimmed -the animals, and then brought them each one to the shop of his -master.<a name="anc_xv_63" id="anc_xv_63"></a><a href="#footnote-xv_63"><span class="fnanchor">[XV_63]</span></a></p> - -<p>In the sequel, the two colleges met, and formed one. Subsequently, under -the reign of Nero, which seemed at the beginning to promise the most -brilliant prospect, the principal market for butchers became an edifice -equal in magnificence to the Baths, the Circus, and -Amphitheatres.<a name="anc_xv_64" id="anc_xv_64"></a><a href="#footnote-xv_64"><span class="fnanchor">[XV_64]</span></a> Eventually it was found necessary to erect two new -buildings, on account of the increasing extent of the city and its -inhabitants.<a name="anc_xv_65" id="anc_xv_65"></a><a href="#footnote-xv_65"><span class="fnanchor">[XV_65]</span></a> The Roman butchers sold both fresh and salt meat, -like our own of the present day. It is not necessary to enter into any -explanation respecting the first; as to the second, their method of -preparation was somewhat different from the way we manage it now:—The -animals they intended to salt were kept from drinking anything on the -eve of the day they were to be killed. They boned the meat, and -sprinkled it lightly with pounded salt; then, after having well dried -off all dampness, they again sprinkled some more salt, and placed the -pieces, so as not to touch each other, in vessels which had been used -for oil or vinegar. They poured sweet wine over, covered the whole with -straw, and strewed snow all round, in order to make the meat better and -more tender.<a name="anc_xv_66" id="anc_xv_66"></a><a href="#footnote-xv_66"><span class="fnanchor">[XV_66]</span></a></p> - -<p>When the cook wanted to extract the salt, he first boiled the meat well -in milk, and afterwards in soft water.<a name="anc_xv_67" id="anc_xv_67"></a><a href="#footnote-xv_67"><span class="fnanchor">[XV_67]</span></a></p> - -<p>The flesh of various animals was also well preserved without salt. The -only thing necessary was to cover each piece with honey, and to place it -in a vessel hermetically closed, hung in a cool place. This operation -was usually performed in winter, and succeeded equally well with meat, -either cooked or raw.<a name="anc_xv_68" id="anc_xv_68"></a><a href="#footnote-xv_68"><span class="fnanchor">[XV_68]</span></a></p> - -<p>The following are some of the statutes of the pork butchers in France, -during the middle ages:—</p> - -<p>No one was to cook pork if it was not “<i>sufficient</i>, or had not good -marrow.”<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_132" id="page_132"></a>{132}</span></p> - -<p>No one could make “sausages of anything but pork.”</p> - -<p>No one could sell “black puddings, for it is a perilous viand.”<a name="anc_xv_69" id="anc_xv_69"></a><a href="#footnote-xv_69"><span class="fnanchor">[XV_69]</span></a></p> - -<p>The French word <i>charcutier</i> (pork butcher) is derived from <i>caro -cocta</i>, <i>chair cuite</i> (cooked meat).</p> - -<p>The numerous regulations concerning the butchers in France during the -14th century rendered it difficult to carry on the trade:—</p> - -<p>Prohibition to buy cattle except in the markets.</p> - -<p>Prohibition to buy pigs fed by barbers or oil dealers.</p> - -<p>Prohibition to kill cattle not a fortnight old.</p> - -<p>Prohibition to kill cattle on the eve of fast days.</p> - -<p>Prohibition to sell stale meat.</p> - -<p>Prohibition to keep meat more than two days in winter, or more than one -day and a-half in summer.</p> - -<p>Prohibition to sell meat by lamp light or candle light.</p> - -<p>The regulations respecting the cleanliness of the slaughter houses and -the shambles were very long and very severe.<a name="anc_xv_70" id="anc_xv_70"></a><a href="#footnote-xv_70"><span class="fnanchor">[XV_70]</span></a></p> - -<p>A butcher in Paris kept but one single kind of meat, in the 14th -century. Pork was sold only at Sainte-Geneviève, mutton at -Saint-Marceau, veal at Saint-Germain, and beef at the market of the -Châtelet.<a name="anc_xv_71" id="anc_xv_71"></a><a href="#footnote-xv_71"><span class="fnanchor">[XV_71]</span></a></p> - -<p>Philip Augustus gave statutes to the butchers of Paris in the year 1182. -He enjoined them to observe the Sabbath, and permitted them to work on -the other days, with the exception of the great festivals.<a name="anc_xv_72" id="anc_xv_72"></a><a href="#footnote-xv_72"><span class="fnanchor">[XV_72]</span></a></p> - -<p>The regulations imposed upon them in the 17th century are to the effect, -that they shall not keep the fat from one week to another; that they -shall not mix the different kinds of suet; and, lastly, that they shall -not have more than three shops, and shall not allow the blood to run in -the streets.<a name="anc_xv_73" id="anc_xv_73"></a><a href="#footnote-xv_73"><span class="fnanchor">[XV_73]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_133" id="page_133"></a>{133}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="XVI" id="XVI"></a>XVI.<br /><br /> -ANIMALS.</h2> - -<hr /> - -<h3>THE PIG.</h3> - -<p>If intelligence, strength, or graceful beauty of form were to decide -what rank this numerous class of animals—which has contributed its -quota to the triumphs of the culinary art—should occupy on our tables, -the pig, with its vile and stupid ugliness, its depraved habits, and its -waddling obesity, would be banished for ever from the farm-yard and -larder in every civilised nation of the world.</p> - -<p>But, in refusing to it brilliant external qualities, Nature, by a wise -compensation, has conferred on it others much more solid; and this -quadruped, so despised during its life-time, does not fail after its -death to conciliate the constant favour of rich and poor—of the man -indifferent to the attractions of good cheer, and of the Sybarite, ever -attentive to enlarge its domain.</p> - -<p>Pliny, the naturalist, places the pig one degree below the scale of -beings. Apicius, the cook, gives it a marked preference over all meats -which passed through his skilful hands. From this, it will easily be -understood that the pig presents itself first in this survey of the -animal diet of those nations who have transmitted to us an account of -their gastrophagic exertions.</p> - -<p>History shows us this animal variously appreciated by different -countries. Certain people consecrated it, when living, to their -divinities most in vogue; others honoured its image—a symbol, they -thought, of the quiet happiness of states; a small number abhorred it, -and the greater part found it excellent eating.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_134" id="page_134"></a>{134}</span></p> - -<p>The inhabitants of Cyprus abstained from it, in order to offer it to -Venus.<a name="anc_xvi_1" id="anc_xvi_1"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_1"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_1]</span></a> The Cretans loaded it with acorns and all the comforts of -life, because Jupiter was first suckled by a sow in their island.<a name="anc_xvi_2" id="anc_xvi_2"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_2"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_2]</span></a> -The Egyptian priests never allowed a ham to grace their feasts; they -fled at the sight of pigs, unclean beings, whose presence alone defiled -them,<a name="anc_xvi_3" id="anc_xvi_3"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_3"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_3]</span></a> although respected by the whole nation on account of the -services they rendered in turning up the earth, and covering the seeds -thrown upon it.<a name="anc_xvi_4" id="anc_xvi_4"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_4"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_4]</span></a></p> - -<p>The law of Moses forbad the Jews to eat this quadruped, or to touch it -after its death,<a name="anc_xvi_5" id="anc_xvi_5"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_5"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_5]</span></a> and more than once they exposed themselves to -the most frightful torments rather than be defiled by this proscribed -viand.<a name="anc_xvi_6" id="anc_xvi_6"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_6"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_6]</span></a></p> - -<p>Tradition, again, strengthened their religious dread, by interdicting -the faithful from even pronouncing the name of this animal, from looking -at it, or selling it to foreign nations.<a name="anc_xvi_7" id="anc_xvi_7"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_7"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_7]</span></a></p> - -<p>The fear of the frightful malady to which the pig was subject in -Palestine was, perhaps, the cause of this prohibition. Has not a Jewish -doctor observed, that if ten measures of leprosy were to fall in the -world, this unhappy animal would take nine parts for his share.<a name="anc_xvi_8" id="anc_xvi_8"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_8"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_8]</span></a> -However, some theologians of that nation believe that the Messiah whom -they expect will allow them the use of this now odious food.<a name="anc_xvi_9" id="anc_xvi_9"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_9"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_9]</span></a></p> - -<p>Like the Jews, the Phœnicians<a name="anc_xvi_10" id="anc_xvi_10"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_10"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_10]</span></a> and Indians<a name="anc_xvi_11" id="anc_xvi_11"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_11"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_11]</span></a> did not eat -pork. The followers of Islamism also abstained from it, in consequence -of a law of the Koran, which Mahomet borrowed from Moses.<a name="anc_xvi_12" id="anc_xvi_12"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_12"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_12]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Greeks and Romans had very different ideas. They knew that their -gods showed a particular predilection for those altars on which bacon or -swine’s flesh smoked;<a name="anc_xvi_13" id="anc_xvi_13"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_13"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_13]</span></a> they therefore offered this meat in -sacrifice to the Earth, the Lares, to Ceres;<a name="anc_xvi_14" id="anc_xvi_14"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_14"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_14]</span></a> and many a time a -medal struck at Rome perpetuated the remembrance of this solemnity, in -honour of the goddess of harvest.<a name="anc_xvi_15" id="anc_xvi_15"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_15"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_15]</span></a></p> - -<p>The pig, emblem of fecundity with these two nations,<a name="anc_xvi_16" id="anc_xvi_16"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_16"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_16]</span></a> became, on -the banners of Italy, a sign of pardon and peace.<a name="anc_xvi_17" id="anc_xvi_17"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_17"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_17]</span></a> Kings and -princes immolated two on their wedding-day;<a name="anc_xvi_18" id="anc_xvi_18"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_18"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_18]</span></a> and nations subdued -by the Roman arms prostrated themselves before the standard, whose image -promised them the clemency of their conquerors.<a name="anc_xvi_19" id="anc_xvi_19"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_19"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_19]</span></a></p> - -<p>The re-establishment of the succulent quadruped would have been -complete, if the cynical carelessness of its rather inelegant habits had -not caused it to become a symbol of debauchery and profligacy of -manners.<a name="anc_xvi_20" id="anc_xvi_20"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_20"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_20]</span></a></p> - -<p>Hitherto the pig has only figured in a point of view purely historical;<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_135" id="page_135"></a>{135}</span> -we have not sought to weaken its faults, nor have we made mention of the -qualities attributed to it—for example, that of discovering truffles. -Nevertheless, we ought not to lose sight of the fact, that this animal -has not passed entirely without renown through the centuries which -divide us from the earliest ages of the world. We shall now speak of its -flesh, its exquisite flavour, and the place it occupied in feasts: there -it reigned with honour; there we must follow it, with all that antiquity -has possessed of celebrated men in the science of degustation and good -living.</p> - -<p>Nature has created the pig for man’s palate; he is good only to be -eaten; and life appears to have been given to him merely as a sort of -salt to prevent his corrupting.<a name="anc_xvi_21" id="anc_xvi_21"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_21"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_21]</span></a> It is true that he possesses -only a vulgar and purely animal substance; but how good is this -substance, and how high does it deserve to be placed on account of its -delicacy and flavour?<a name="anc_xvi_22" id="anc_xvi_22"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_22"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_22]</span></a></p> - -<p>Such is the praise of which a physician and two philosophers have -thought it worthy.</p> - -<p>The pig furnishes a strong and somewhat heavy kind of food;<a name="anc_xvi_23" id="anc_xvi_23"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_23"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_23]</span></a> -wherefore wrestlers were recommended to eat much of it, and Galen -advised it to persons who worked hard, or used violent exercise.<a name="anc_xvi_24" id="anc_xvi_24"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_24"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_24]</span></a></p> - -<p>But it was not necessary to recommend to the Greeks a meat of which they -were so fond. Look over the long work of Athenæus—he everywhere extols -it, everywhere speaks of it with fresh complacency, and in pompous -terms.<a name="anc_xvi_25" id="anc_xvi_25"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_25"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_25]</span></a></p> - -<p>An Athenian, renowned as a man of taste and for the refined elegance of -his table, would have thought his reputation lost had he not offered to -his guests fat <i>andouilles</i>, sausages, pigs’ feet, and pork cutlets; -above all, he was careful not to forget salted and smoked hams—the -honour of the banquet, and the delight of the human race.<a name="anc_xvi_26" id="anc_xvi_26"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_26"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_26]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Macedonian, Caranus, invited twenty of his best friends to his -wedding, and gave them a feast, of which gastrophagic annals have -preserved the remembrance. Each guest received from his munificence a -flagon and crown of silver, a crown of gold, and vases of the same -precious metal. What shall we say of the dishes displayed at this -meeting of learned epicureans? Composed by the art of the most skilful -cooks, struck with admiration, they ate and relished, whilst unexpected -wonders unceasingly solicited their fatigued, yet not satiated, -appetites; when at last appeared an immense silver dish, on which was<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_136" id="page_136"></a>{136}</span> -displayed an entire roasted hog, whose vast sides concealed a multitude -of quails and other small birds, <i>tétines de truie</i>, relishing yolks of -eggs, oysters, and a host of shell fish, prepared with that scientific -regard for gastric energy which considerably increases its -power.<a name="anc_xvi_27" id="anc_xvi_27"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_27"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_27]</span></a></p> - -<p>Macedonia possessed a particular species of pig, greatly envied by the -rest of Greece. Certain individuals of this giant race acquired enormous -proportions, and King Eumenes used to give as much as sixty-four pounds -sterling for one of these animals, provided it measured four feet seven -inches in height, and as much in length.<a name="anc_xvi_28" id="anc_xvi_28"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_28"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_28]</span></a></p> - -<p>It will be easily understood that the cooks vied with each other, to see -who could form unheard-of combinations with the succulent pieces which -these enormous pigs furnished. They disguised the taste and form in a -thousand different ways, and the most experienced palate was always the -dupe of these exquisite deceptions. Thus Titius Quintus, a clever -amateur, being enraptured with the number and astonishing variety of -dishes which his host caused to be served, at Chalies in Etolia, what -was his surprise when the amiable Amphytrion smilingly told him that he -had eaten nothing but pork!<a name="anc_xvi_29" id="anc_xvi_29"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_29"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_29]</span></a></p> - -<p>Rome, be it observed, knew how to follow the example of Greece; and, in -the hands of its skilful cooks, the flesh of this heavy animal was often -transformed into delicate fish, ducks, turtle doves, or capons.<a name="anc_xvi_30" id="anc_xvi_30"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_30"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_30]</span></a></p> - -<p>But the masterpiece of these great artists—the <i>ne plus ultra</i> of their -fertile imagination—was the hog <i>à la Troyenne</i>, so named because from -the depth of its inside issued battalions of thrushes, myriads of -ortolans, and fig-peckers (becaficoes)—an ingenious image of those -armed cohorts inclosed in the horse of Troy.<a name="anc_xvi_31" id="anc_xvi_31"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_31"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_31]</span></a> Everywhere the -sumptuous dish is cited, but nothing is said of the manner in which it -was prepared. The curious will perhaps be thankful to find that this -omission is here repaired:—</p> - -<p>The animal is artistically bled under the shoulder. When all the blood -has flowed, the intestines are drawn out by the throat, and washed for a -long time with wine, taking care to pass it through them. The pig is -then hung up by the feet, and washed also with wine. An excellent gravy -must be prepared beforehand, with meat hashed small and well peppered, -with which you stuff the intestines, and then force them back into their -place by the throat. Pour in at the same time a great quantity of gravy, -and fill the animal with small game. Half of the pig is afterwards -covered with a thick paste of barley meal, wine, and oil. It is then put -into a portable oven, on a small metal<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_137" id="page_137"></a>{137}</span> table, where it is roasted by a -slow fire. When the skin has assumed a fine colour it is withdrawn, and -boiled on the other side; the paste covering is then entirely removed, -and the pig <i>à la Troyenne</i> may be served.<a name="anc_xvi_32" id="anc_xvi_32"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_32"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_32]</span></a> The Romans reared a -great number of these animals, and also procured many from foreign -countries, especially from Arcadia, which produced some of extraordinary -size. Varro relates that in this part of the Peloponnesus he was shown a -pig so fat that it was impossible for the animal to make the least -movement; and that a mouse had settled on its back with her young -family, softly ensconced in the fat, where they fed at the expense of -the careless animal.<a name="anc_xvi_33" id="anc_xvi_33"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_33"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_33]</span></a></p> - -<p>Rome adopted, with a kind of gastronomic rage, the preparations and -<i>ragoûts</i> celebrated in Greece.<a name="anc_xvi_34" id="anc_xvi_34"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_34"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_34]</span></a> The Trojan pig never failed to -appear on tables renowned for their luxury;<a name="anc_xvi_35" id="anc_xvi_35"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_35"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_35]</span></a> and sucking pigs -were eaten in such profusion, that the censors were obliged to interdict -their use. Alexander Severus renewed this prohibition.<a name="anc_xvi_36" id="anc_xvi_36"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_36"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_36]</span></a> The large -pigs stuffed with game (an expensive delicacy of patrician tables) also -called forth new sumptuary laws,<a name="anc_xvi_37" id="anc_xvi_37"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_37"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_37]</span></a> which only provoked disdain, -and which fashion soon rendered obsolete.</p> - -<p>We hardly dare mention a strange dish, in great request among the rich -and luxurious, who alone could procure it. The first preparation -consisted in stifling the young before they were littered.<a name="anc_xvi_38" id="anc_xvi_38"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_38"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_38]</span></a> Thank -Heaven, this culinary atrocity could not survive an epoch without -parallel, perhaps, in the history of human follies, by we know not what -refinement of incredible gluttony, of frightful depravity, and atrocious -cruelty, which, together, prepared the downfall of the Roman colossus.</p> - -<p>Besides this disgusting dish, much was thought at Rome, as well as at -Athens, of pig’s head, spare-rib, hams, and bacon. Seven other parts -occupied the second rank—these were the ears, feet, foreloin, fillet, -cheek, intestines, and blood.<a name="anc_xvi_39" id="anc_xvi_39"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_39"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_39]</span></a></p> - -<p>Westphalia supplied sumptuous tables with much-esteemed hams; but those -of Sardinia, Catalonia, and Cantabria were, nevertheless, -preferred.<a name="anc_xvi_40" id="anc_xvi_40"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_40"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_40]</span></a> They were sometimes served at the beginning of a -repast, in order to excite the appetite; and also often at the close, in -order to re-animate its extinguished ardour, and provoke new -libations.<a name="anc_xvi_41" id="anc_xvi_41"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_41"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_41]</span></a> One of the most ancient geoponics teaches how to -prepare, salt, and smoke hams;<a name="anc_xvi_42" id="anc_xvi_42"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_42"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_42]</span></a> for the inhabitants of the -country, and the lower classes in the cities, showed a singular taste -for this delicate meat, which the Gauls<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_138" id="page_138"></a>{138}</span> (great amateurs of -pork)<a name="anc_xvi_43" id="anc_xvi_43"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_43"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_43]</span></a> sent them at a low price, with an enormous quantity of -pickled pork, <i>andouillettes</i>, and sausages.<a name="anc_xvi_44" id="anc_xvi_44"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_44"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_44]</span></a></p> - -<p>This last preparation, very celebrated in Lucania,<a name="anc_xvi_45" id="anc_xvi_45"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_45"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_45]</span></a> served as a -means of livelihood to a great number of Roman women, who also employed -themselves in making excellent black puddings, in imitation of those -eaten in Greece.<a name="anc_xvi_46" id="anc_xvi_46"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_46"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_46]</span></a></p> - -<p>Bacon was then of great utility, as in the present day, though oil -superseded it in the concoction of a host of dishes. Bacon for a long -time served almost as the exclusive food of the Romans,<a name="anc_xvi_47" id="anc_xvi_47"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_47"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_47]</span></a> before -their unruly luxury had given it up to the soldiers and -proletarians.<a name="anc_xvi_48" id="anc_xvi_48"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_48"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_48]</span></a> It was also found in all public houses,<a name="anc_xvi_49" id="anc_xvi_49"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_49"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_49]</span></a> -where the populace habitually gorged themselves with pork, -vegetables,<a name="anc_xvi_50" id="anc_xvi_50"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_50"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_50]</span></a> and hot water.<a name="anc_xvi_51" id="anc_xvi_51"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_51"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_51]</span></a></p> - -<p>The ancients salted the pig, in order to preserve it; but Apicius taught -them a very simple process for the use of epicures, which advantageously -replaced common brine. You take middling-sized pieces of pork, cover -them entirely with a sort of paste, composed of salt, vinegar, and -honey, and place them in vessels which you close carefully.<a name="anc_xvi_52" id="anc_xvi_52"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_52"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_52]</span></a></p> - -<p>We will now indicate some of the dishes most in vogue prepared with -pork—a meat so much esteemed by the Greeks and Romans, and in which -they believed themselves to have discovered fifty different -flavours,<a name="anc_xvi_53" id="anc_xvi_53"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_53"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_53]</span></a> or fifty parts, each possessing a distinct taste from -the other.</p> - -<p><i>Apician Pork.</i>—Roast a fine young sucking pig; and whilst a slow fire -gently embellishes it with a golden colour, pound, with pepper and -alisander, some coriander seed, mint, and rue. Then pour over it some -wine, honey, garum, or gravy; mix with care these different ingredients, -and pour this seasoning on your roast, as soon as you have taken it from -the spit or oven.<a name="anc_xvi_54" id="anc_xvi_54"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_54"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_54]</span></a></p> - -<p><i>Macedonian Pork.</i>—Choose, among a number of large and fine sucking -pigs, the one which appears to you the most worthy of the culinary -sacrifice. Draw it by the upper part; clean it well, and fill it with -chicken sausages chopped small, the flesh of thrushes, ortolans, and -pork; add Lucanian sausages, dates without stones, raisins, and -afterwards, mallow, beet, leeks, parsley, coriander, whole pepper, and -pine nuts; add eggs, and a good quantity of well-peppered gravy. Bake -it, having previously scored the back of the animal, so that it may be -basted with its own gravy. When a delightful odour shall then warn you -that it is done, cover it, before serving, with a relishing mixture<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_139" id="page_139"></a>{139}</span> of -pepper, rue, garum, or gravy, to which you must add wine, honey, and a -little oil.<a name="anc_xvi_55" id="anc_xvi_55"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_55"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_55]</span></a></p> - -<p><i>Stuffed Sucking Pig.</i>—The intestines are drawn out by the throat, and -an opening made under the skin. You then fill with stuffing a bladder, -to the neck of which is securely fixed a long and narrow tube, which -will convey to every part the somewhat liquid substance which you will -express from the bladder. The opening is then closed with parchment sewn -to the skin. It is hardly necessary to say that this operation should be -performed in several places.</p> - -<p>Let us now see to the inside. Crush pepper, alisander, wild marjoram, -and a little benzoin root; mix with this, garum or gravy, cooked brains, -raw eggs, flour, and pork gravy; the whole must be boiled on a slow -fire, and the pig filled with it, also with little birds, pine nuts, -whole pepper, and garum. It now only remains to place it in the oven, -watch over the cooking, baste it with gravy, and serve.<a name="anc_xvi_56" id="anc_xvi_56"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_56"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_56]</span></a></p> - -<p><i>Aristoxenic Ham.</i>—Take a fresh ham, salt it, and smoke it two days; -then rub it with a mixture of oil and vinegar, and hang it to the -ceiling.<a name="anc_xvi_57" id="anc_xvi_57"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_57"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_57]</span></a> Some days after you must boil it with a great quantity -of figs and three bay leaves; then take off the skin, make incisions in -the flesh, and fill them with honey. Finally, prepare a paste of flour -and oil, with which cover the ham; put it into the oven, and withdraw it -only when this crust is completely done.<a name="anc_xvi_58" id="anc_xvi_58"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_58"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_58]</span></a></p> - -<p><i>Lucullian Ham.</i>—Cook a ham, newly salted, with two pounds of barley -and twenty-five figs. Then bone it, and slightly scarify the skin with -an iron blade; put it into the oven, taking care to cover it with a -little honey. When it begins to colour, put into a saucepan some cooked -wine, pepper, wine and a bunch of rue, the half of which is then poured -on the ham. The other half of this seasoning serves to humect the -quenelles which you have taken beforehand from the ham previous to -baking; these must be well soaked with gravy, and then, if you have any -remaining, pour it over the ham, which you serve surrounded by the -quenelles.<a name="anc_xvi_59" id="anc_xvi_59"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_59"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_59]</span></a></p> - -<p><i>Ventre de Truie à l’Athénienne.</i>—It is boiled with sweet herbs and -served with a seasoning of cummin seed, vinegar, and silphium.<a name="anc_xvi_60" id="anc_xvi_60"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_60"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_60]</span></a></p> - -<p><i>Ventre de Truie à la Romaine.</i>—It is cooked in the manner before -described, and seasoned with a sauce composed of pepper, parsley seed, -dried mint, benzoin-root, honey, vinegar, and garum.<a name="anc_xvi_61" id="anc_xvi_61"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_61"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_61]</span></a></p> - -<p><i>Fillet of Pork à la Bœotienne.</i>—When it has been covered with -honey<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_140" id="page_140"></a>{140}</span> and vinegar, and baked in the oven, it is eaten with a seasoning -of pepper, benzoin, and garum.<a name="anc_xvi_62" id="anc_xvi_62"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_62"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_62]</span></a></p> - -<p><i>Tétines de Truie à la Salienne.</i>—Cook them in water; make several -incisions; cover them with salt, and place them in the oven, or on the -gridiron; prepare a seasoning of pepper and alisander, with garum, wine, -and cooked wine; thicken with fine floor; put in the <i>tétines</i>, and -serve.<a name="anc_xvi_63" id="anc_xvi_63"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_63"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_63]</span></a></p> - -<p><i>Tétines à la Flamine.</i>—Mix the flesh of a sea-hedge hog with carrots -and pepper; introduce the mixture into the <i>tétines</i>; sew up the -opening; cook them in the oven, or on the gridiron, and eat them with -brine and mustard.<a name="anc_xvi_64" id="anc_xvi_64"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_64"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_64]</span></a></p> - -<p><i>Olympian Pig’s Liver.</i>—Take the liver of a pig that has been fed only -on figs, bake it, and serve with a seasoning of œnogarum, pepper, -thyme, alisander, garum, oil, and a little vinegar.<a name="anc_xvi_65" id="anc_xvi_65"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_65"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_65]</span></a></p> - -<p><i>Capitolian Pig’s Liver.</i>—Make incisions in the liver of a pig that has -been fed on nothing but figs, and put it into garum with pepper, -alisander, and two bay leaves; then wrap it in the caul, cook it on the -gridiron, and serve.<a name="anc_xvi_66" id="anc_xvi_66"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_66"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_66]</span></a></p> - -<p><i>Campanian Bacon.</i>—It is cooked by just covering it with water and a -good quantity of dill, to which a little oil and salt are afterwards -added.<a name="anc_xvi_67" id="anc_xvi_67"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_67"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_67]</span></a></p> - -<p><i>Quenelles of Pig’s Liver and Brains.</i>—Roast a pig’s liver, and take -off all the fibrous parts; sprinkle it with pounded pepper and rue; add -some gravy; stir the whole well; then cut it into small slices, each of -which you must cover with a bay leaf; hang them over the smoke as long -as you think necessary.</p> - -<p>When you wish to eat them, roast them afresh; then put them into a -mortar, with pepper, alisander, and wild marjoram; stir them, add gravy -and dressed sucking pigs’ brains, pounded with care; then add five eggs, -and dissolve them in such a manner as to make the whole thoroughly -compact; pour over it some gravy, and cook in a saucepan; when cooked, -throw it on a very clean table, and out this pulp into small square -pieces, which mix in the mortar with pepper, alisander, and wild -marjoram. When you have gently stirred all this, it must again be put -into a saucepan, and boiled over a slow fire. At the moment of -ebullition, pour it on a plate, sprinkle with pepper, and serve.<a name="anc_xvi_68" id="anc_xvi_68"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_68"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_68]</span></a></p> - -<p><i>Lucanian Sausages.</i>—Pound in a mortar some pepper, cummin, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_141" id="page_141"></a>{141}</span> winter -savory with bay leaves, and moisten with gravy and garum; then add to -this mixture some pork, chopped small, more garum and pepper, and a good -quantity of bacon, with a few pine nuts. When these various ingredients -are well incorporated one with another, you stuff the prepared -intestines, and hang up the sausages.<a name="anc_xvi_69" id="anc_xvi_69"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_69"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_69]</span></a></p> - -<p><i>Imperial Sausages.</i>—Cut some pork into very small pieces, which most -be pounded with the finest bread, well-soaked in wine; then pound some -pepper and decorticated myrtle leaves, and add some gravy. Make some -small sausages, and put inside some fir-nuts. When these sausages are -finished, you must cook them over a slow fire, with sweet wine, -previously reduced to a-third.<a name="anc_xvi_70" id="anc_xvi_70"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_70"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_70]</span></a></p> - -<p>The following is the seasoning you must add to it:—</p> - -<p>Bone some small chickens, and put them into a saucepan, with leeks, -dill, and salt. When this is cooked, add pepper and smallage seed; then -crumble some sesame bread, on which pour some very thick gravy, mix the -whole well, and serve with the sausages.<a name="anc_xvi_71" id="anc_xvi_71"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_71"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_71]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Gauls had very considerable herds of swine, which they fed -exclusively upon acorns. The inhabitants of the towns reared them in -their houses. As these animals went frequently out, they caused some -obstruction, and we know that Philip, grandson of Louis-le-Gros, lost -his life in Paris, in consequence of a furious pig having run between -the legs of his horse, and caused him to fall. This accident took place -on the 1st October, 1181. The 3rd of the same month a proclamation was -issued, forbidding all persons to let their swine ramble through the -streets of Paris. A short time after, those which belonged to the Abbaye -Saint-Antoine were privileged; the abbess and the nuns having -represented that it would be a want of courtesy to their patron saint -not to exempt his hogs from the general rule.<a name="anc_xvi_72" id="anc_xvi_72"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_72"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_72]</span></a></p> - -<p>A new proclamation of the 20th January, 1850, interdicted with still -greater severity the rearing of swine in the town of Paris, under -penalty of a fine of 60 sous (two shillings and four-pence); and the -police were authorized to kill them wheresoever they might be found, to -take the head as a perquisite for themselves, and to deposit the carcase -at the Hôtel-Dieu (the name of an hospital), charging that establishment -with the cost incurred for its conveyance.<a name="anc_xvi_73" id="anc_xvi_73"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_73"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_73]</span></a></p> - -<p>There was nothing more delicate in the 16th century, nothing more -odoriferous, than the flesh of young pigs fed on parsnips,<a name="anc_xvi_73a" id="anc_xvi_73a"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_73a"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_73A]</span></a> and -roasted, with a stuffing of fine herbs.<a name="anc_xvi_73b" id="anc_xvi_73b"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_73b"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_73B]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_142" id="page_142"></a>{142}</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>THE OX.</h3> - -<p>A profound sentiment of gratitude has been often the cause of rendering -to the ox extraordinary honours, which no animal, perhaps, ever shared -with him. The Egyptians considered this quadruped as the emblem of -agriculture, and of all that serves to support existence;<a name="anc_xvi_74" id="anc_xvi_74"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_74"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_74]</span></a> and -incense smoked on its altars at Memphis and Heliopolis.<a name="anc_xvi_75" id="anc_xvi_75"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_75"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_75]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Phœnicians religiously abstained from its flesh, and the -Phrygians punished with death whosoever dared to slay the labouring -ox.<a name="anc_xvi_76" id="anc_xvi_76"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_76"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_76]</span></a></p> - -<p>In Greece, during the heroic ages, an ox was the reward adjudged to the -conquering wrestlers and pugilists; a horse was the prize of racing or -the quoits.<a name="anc_xvi_77" id="anc_xvi_77"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_77"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_77]</span></a></p> - -<p>At a later period the Athenians decreed that their coins should bear the -image of this useful quadruped;<a name="anc_xvi_78" id="anc_xvi_78"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_78"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_78]</span></a> and though they then offered it -to their gods, the ceremonies even of the sacrifice testified the -repugnance felt at shedding its blood.</p> - -<p>The sacrificer fled with the greatest speed after he had struck it; he -was followed, and, to avoid being arrested, he threw away the axe he had -used, and accused it of causing the death of the innocent ox. The axe -was then seized and tried; some one defended it, and alleged that it was -less guilty than the grinder who had sharpened the blade. The latter -cast the odium of the crime on the grinding stone, so that the trial was -never ended, and the pretended offence remained unpunished.<a name="anc_xvi_79" id="anc_xvi_79"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_79"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_79]</span></a></p> - -<p>For a long time the greater part of the ancients considered it a sin to -eat the flesh of the ox, the companion of the agriculturist, whose -patient vigour hollows the furrow which is to be the means of his -support.<a name="anc_xvi_80" id="anc_xvi_80"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_80"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_80]</span></a> But the bad example of Proserpine, who prepared one for -Hercules,<a name="anc_xvi_81" id="anc_xvi_81"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_81"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_81]</span></a> caused these scruples, one by one, to be hushed, the -solemn prohibition of the legislator of Athens forgotten;<a name="anc_xvi_82" id="anc_xvi_82"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_82"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_82]</span></a> and, -in spite of the obstinate resistance of the Pythagorians and the -disciples of Empedocles, every one declared in favour of the doctrines -of Zeno and Epicurus.</p> - -<p>Moreover, it is certain that the heroes of Homer were not so scrupulous: -Menelaus offered roast-beef to Telemachus; Agamemnon also presented some -to the wise Nestor; and an ox, roasted whole, frequently appeased the -robust appetite of the illustrious chiefs of Greece.<a name="anc_xvi_83" id="anc_xvi_83"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_83"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_83]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_143" id="page_143"></a>{143}</span></p> - -<p>If we go back to centuries still more remote, and of which a venerable -historian has preserved us an account, we find herds of oxen were -possessed by the great patriarchal families.<a name="anc_x" id="anc_x"></a><a href="#footnote_x"><span class="fnanchor">[X]</span></a><a name="anc_xvi_84" id="anc_xvi_84"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_84"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_84]</span></a> Abraham cooked a -calf and served it to the three angels, in the valley of Mamre;<a name="anc_xvi_85" id="anc_xvi_85"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_85"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_85]</span></a> -and the flesh of this animal, whether ox or heifer, was evidently much -in use in the primitive ages, since no particular proscription exempts -them from those beings having “life and motion,”<a name="anc_xvi_86" id="anc_xvi_86"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_86"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_86]</span></a> and which are -to serve us as food.<a name="anc_xvi_87" id="anc_xvi_87"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_87"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_87]</span></a> As to Moses, far from interdicting it to -the Israelites, he places the ox in the first rank of pure -animals,<a name="anc_xvi_88" id="anc_xvi_88"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_88"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_88]</span></a> whose flesh was allowed them.</p> - -<p>The oracle of ancient medicine, Hippocrates, praises the flesh of the -ox, in which he recognises the most nutritious qualities, but -nevertheless he believes it to be heavy and indigestible.<a name="anc_xvi_89" id="anc_xvi_89"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_89"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_89]</span></a></p> - -<p>Of what material, then, must have been the stomach of Theagenes, of -Thasos—he, who devoured a whole bull in one day.<a name="anc_xvi_90" id="anc_xvi_90"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_90"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_90]</span></a></p> - -<p>To be sure, the same exploit is attributed to Milo of Crotona, whose -ordinary meal consisted of eighteen pounds of meat, as much bread, and -fifteen pints of wine.<a name="anc_xvi_91" id="anc_xvi_91"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_91"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_91]</span></a> These formidable polyphagists could, -without much expense, indulge their fabulous appetites; for, in the time -of Demosthenes, 354 <small>B.C.</small>, an ox of the first quality cost only eighty -drachmas, or about two pounds, eleven shillings, and eightpence.<a name="anc_xvi_92" id="anc_xvi_92"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_92"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_92]</span></a></p> - -<p>Magiric writers have left us very few details on the different methods -of cooking the flesh of the ox or calf. It appears to have been -generally roasted,<a name="anc_xvi_93" id="anc_xvi_93"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_93"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_93]</span></a> in which case it was eaten alone; but -sometimes it was eaten boiled, with one of the sauces to be hereafter -mentioned.</p> - -<p>These animals were fed with particular care, in order to render them -more worthy of the luxurious tables for which certain choice pieces were -destined. The manner of fattening oxen has already been described: it is -only necessary to add, that calves, which were to be slaughtered, -received no other food than their mothers’ milk; and that, frequently, -they were not killed before the expiration of a twelvemonth.<a name="anc_xvi_94" id="anc_xvi_94"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_94"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_94]</span></a></p> - -<p>Double tripe was reputed as an excellent food. The Asiatics,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_144" id="page_144"></a>{144}</span> Greeks, -and Romans were particularly fond of it. It was served at a sumptuous -repast prepared for Achilles; and Homer observes, that this dish was -always honourably received at the banquets of heroes.<a name="anc_xvi_95" id="anc_xvi_95"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_95"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_95]</span></a></p> - -<p>Athenæus, describing a feast of the most exquisite elegance, names -double tripe among a host of dishes he enumerates;<a name="anc_xvi_96" id="anc_xvi_96"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_96"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_96]</span></a> he also says, -speaking of a state dinner at which Philoxenus, one of the generals of -Alexander the Great, was a guest, that first of all there appeared large -basins containing the intestines of animals, disposed with art around -their heads:<a name="anc_xvi_97" id="anc_xvi_97"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_97"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_97]</span></a> and it is thus, he adds, that even the gods gave -themselves up, in the society of their friends, to the pleasures of good -cheer.<a name="anc_xvi_98" id="anc_xvi_98"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_98"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_98]</span></a> To be brief, this artless chronicler of antique -gastrophagy, tells us that after the sacrilegious undertaking of the -Titans, the human race enjoyed such perfect happiness, that men caused -to be served at every one of their repasts delicious double tripe and -savoury intestines.<a name="anc_xvi_99" id="anc_xvi_99"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_99"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_99]</span></a></p> - -<p>This touching example of felicity and innocent gluttony found few -imitators at Rome among that class of voluptuous men who entertained, at -enormous expense, tasters whose discriminating palates could tell -whether a fish had been caught at the mouth of the Tiber, or further -off; whether a goose’s liver had been fattened with fresh figs, or only -on dried ones.<a name="anc_xvi_100" id="anc_xvi_100"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_100"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_100]</span></a> For them tripe could have very little -attraction, but this rather plebeian dish appeared with honour on modest -tables, and proletarian epicures sought for it with eagerness.<a name="anc_xvi_101" id="anc_xvi_101"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_101"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_101]</span></a></p> - -<p><i>Beef à l’Ibérienne.</i>—Well boil an excellent piece of beef, and serve -it with the following sauce. Grind and mix pepper, alisander, parsley -seed, wild marjoram, and dried onions; moisten with sun-made raisin -wine; stir, and add honey, vinegar, wine, garum, oil, and sweet -wine.<a name="anc_xvi_102" id="anc_xvi_102"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_102"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_102]</span></a></p> - -<p><i>Stewed Beef à la Sarmate.</i>—Carefully choose a piece of beef, which -stew slowly for a long time with leeks, cut small, onions, or beans. -When it is well cooked, pour over a mixture of pepper, benzoin, and a -little oil.<a name="anc_xvi_103" id="anc_xvi_103"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_103"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_103]</span></a></p> - -<p><i>Dish of Veal à la Syracusaine.</i>—Cook a piece of veal, on a slow fire, -with pepper, alisander, carrots, and parsley seed, bruised together in a -mortar; then add honey, vinegar, garum, and oil; thicken the whole with -fine flour, and serve.<a name="anc_xvi_104" id="anc_xvi_104"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_104"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_104]</span></a></p> - -<p><i>Noix de Veau à la Tarantaise.</i>—Take a <i>noix de veau</i>, cook it in a -saucepan with pepper, alisander, and fenugreek seed; add, later, some -wild marjoram, pine nuts, and dates; then moisten with a mixture of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_145" id="page_145"></a>{145}</span> -honey, vinegar, garum, mustard, and oil. When the cookery of these -various substances shall have made an homogeneous whole, serve.<a name="anc_xvi_105" id="anc_xvi_105"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_105"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_105]</span></a></p> - -<p><i>Cisalpine Preserve.</i>—Mince some beef in very small pieces; do the same -with a little bacon; add pine nuts, pounded with dates; pour on the -whole a mixture of vinegar, garum, mustard, and oil; stir well, and -throw on this pulp a powder of strong odoriferous herbs. Stir it a long -time, let it rest, compress it strongly in a prepared intestine, close -the opening, and put a string round to tighten it still more. This -preserve cannot turn bad.<a name="anc_xvi_106" id="anc_xvi_106"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_106"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_106]</span></a></p> - -<p>The ox was so precious among the Romans, that mention is made of a -certain citizen accused before the people and condemned, because he had -killed one of his oxen to satisfy the fancy of a young libertine, who -told him he bad never eaten any tripe. He was banished, as if he had -killed his farmer.<a name="anc_xvi_107" id="anc_xvi_107"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_107"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_107]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Brahmin women think to obtain abundance of milk and butter by -invoking one particular cow,—the darling cow of the king of heaven; the -type, mother, and patroness of all cows. The entire species are treated -with the greatest deference; they have lavished upon them every -expression of gratitude, and one day of each year is set apart as a -solemn festival consecrated to their worship.<a name="anc_xvi_108" id="anc_xvi_108"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_108"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_108]</span></a></p> - -<p>Some centuries ago the large pieces of meat were boiled first, and then -roasted. Roasted meat was always served with sauce. Animals roasted -whole were generally filled with an aromatic stuffing. Sage was the -common seasoning for geese, and sucking-pigs were stuffed with chesnuts. -Some minutes before these were taken from the spit, they were covered -with bread crumbs; and appeared on the table enveloped in a crust -composed of bread, sugar, orange juice, and rose water.<a name="anc_xvi_109" id="anc_xvi_109"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_109"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_109]</span></a></p> - -<p><i>Bœuf Gras.</i>—There is a very old custom in the whole of France, and -which consists in leading throughout the streets, in the provincial -towns, on Shrove Tuesday, a fatted ox, ornamented with flowers and -ribbons. This ceremony is considered as a commemorative emblem of the -fecundity of the earth. In Paris, the ox chosen for the same purpose has -generally obtained beforehand the prize awarded by the Agricultural -Society. The horns of the animal are gilded; he is afterwards decorated -in a sumptuous manner, and led through the principal thoroughfares of -that city, on Shrove Sunday, Monday, and Tuesday, to the Palace of the -Tuileries, the ministerial residences, the Hôtel-de-Ville, and the -foreign embassies. Troops of butchers, dressed in appropriate fancy -costumes,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_146" id="page_146"></a>{146}</span> both on horseback and on foot, are preceded by bands of -music; and the heathen divinities, drawn by eight horses in a richly -gilt triumphal car, form one of the most splendid and grotesque pageants -of modern times.</p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>THE LAMB.</h3> - -<p>Formerly, sworn examiners of the clouds, skilful in discovering the -storms they concealed, announced to the inhabitants of the country the -hail by which their crops were threatened, and every one immediately -offered a sacrifice to the inimical cloud, in order that it might carry -ruin and desolation elsewhere. The most devout sacrificed a lamb; the -lukewarm worshippers a fowl; some even contented themselves with -pricking their finger with a pin, and throwing towards heaven the drops -of blood which came out. The cloud, it is said, satisfied with these -pious offerings, soon disappeared never to return.<a name="anc_xvi_110" id="anc_xvi_110"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_110"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_110]</span></a></p> - -<p>The lamb, an oblation pure and agreeable in the sight of the gods, -reconciled the earth with Olympus. In Egypt, the inhabitants of Sais and -Thebes offered it to their divinities.<a name="anc_xvi_111" id="anc_xvi_111"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_111"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_111]</span></a> Minerva and Juno also -were pleased to see its flesh smoking on the altars which Greece and -Italy raised to them.<a name="anc_xvi_112" id="anc_xvi_112"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_112"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_112]</span></a></p> - -<p>These practices, no doubt, were an obscure imitation of the religious -rites which Moses prescribed to his people,<a name="anc_xvi_113" id="anc_xvi_113"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_113"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_113]</span></a> and which heathen -nations adopted in their turn, one from the other.<a name="anc_xvi_114" id="anc_xvi_114"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_114"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_114]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Hebrew law forbad the killing of the Paschal lamb before it was -weaned, and also the cooking of it in its mother’s milk. It was to be -eaten roasted, with unleavened bread, lettuces, mustard, or bitter -herbs: whatever might remain was to be burnt with fire. It was not to be -boiled, nor a bone of it broken. It must be chosen of that year, a male, -and without fault or blemish.<a name="anc_xvi_115" id="anc_xvi_115"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_115"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_115]</span></a></p> - -<p>Many passages of the sacred writings allow us to appreciate the pastoral -riches of the first nations of the East; and an idea may be formed of -the number of their flocks, when we are told that Jacob gave the -children of Hamor a hundred sheep for the price of a field;<a name="anc_xvi_116" id="anc_xvi_116"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_116"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_116]</span></a> and -that the King of Israel received a hundred thousand every year from the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_147" id="page_147"></a>{147}</span> -King of Moab, his tributary, and a like number of rams, covered with -their fleece.<a name="anc_xvi_117" id="anc_xvi_117"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_117"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_117]</span></a></p> - -<p>The delicate flesh of the lamb was the ornament of the tables of the -voluptuous inhabitants of Sion and Samaria. The prophet Amos reproaches -them with this luxury, and threatens them with the Divine anger<a name="anc_xvi_118" id="anc_xvi_118"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_118"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_118]</span></a> -on that account. The Greeks carried their love for this meat to such a -height, that the magistrates of Athens were obliged to forbid the eating -of lamb which had not been shorn.<a name="anc_xvi_119" id="anc_xvi_119"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_119"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_119]</span></a> This restriction did not -prevent the epicures of Attica from buying one of these animals every -day, which cost them ten drachmas<a name="anc_xvi_120" id="anc_xvi_120"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_120"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_120]</span></a> (6<i>s.</i> 5<i>d.</i>), and the head -of which, prepared with art, heightened the beauty of the first -course.<a name="anc_xvi_121" id="anc_xvi_121"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_121"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_121]</span></a> Rome and Italy imitated Greece,<a name="anc_xvi_122" id="anc_xvi_122"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_122"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_122]</span></a> and the flocks -of the fertile Campania hardly sufficed for the exigencies of the -capital of the world, especially towards the end of autumn, a period at -which lambs afforded, according to the Romans, a more highly flavoured -and wholesome meat than in the spring.<a name="anc_xvi_123" id="anc_xvi_123"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_123"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_123]</span></a></p> - -<p><i>Lamb’s Head à la Quirinale.</i>—The head is boiled with pepper, garum, -and beans, and served with a sauce consisting of garum, pepper, benzoin, -and cummin, to which is added a little oil, and small pieces of bread, -soaked in sweet wine.<a name="anc_xvi_124" id="anc_xvi_124"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_124"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_124]</span></a></p> - -<p><i>Quarter of Lamb à l’Esquilin.</i>—Place a quarter of lamb in a saucepan -with onions and coriander, chopped very small. Then pound pepper, -alisander, and cummin; put to it some oil, wine, and garum. Pour the -whole on the lamb; cook well, and thicken with fine flour.<a name="anc_xvi_125" id="anc_xvi_125"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_125"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_125]</span></a></p> - -<p><i>Palatine Broil.</i>—Leave a piece of lamb during some time in a mixture -of pepper, benzoin, garum, and oil. After having cooked it in oil and -garum, put it a little while on the gridiron, sprinkle with pepper, and -serve.<a name="anc_xvi_126" id="anc_xvi_126"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_126"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_126]</span></a></p> - -<p><i>Roast Lamb à la Phrygienne.</i>—Bake a lamb and serve it with the -following sauce:—Mix well half an ounce of pepper, six scruples of -cinnamon, a little ginger, half a pint of excellent garum, and the -quarter of that quantity of oil.<a name="anc_xvi_127" id="anc_xvi_127"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_127"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_127]</span></a></p> - -<p><i>Lamb à la Trimalcion.</i>—Draw a lamb at the neck; preserve the -intestines entire, and wash them with the greatest care; fill them with -force meat and garum; put them back again by the same way; sew up the -opening, and place the lamb in the oven. Then mix gravy and milk; add -pounded pepper, garum, wine, sweet wine, and oil; let it<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_148" id="page_148"></a>{148}</span> boil only an -instant; thicken with fine floor, and serve it with the lamb.<a name="anc_xvi_128" id="anc_xvi_128"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_128"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_128]</span></a></p> - -<p>Blount informs us of a very ancient and rather strange custom. He -says:—</p> - -<p>“At Kidlington, in Oxfordshire, the custom is, that on Monday after -Whitson week, there is a fat, live lamb provided, and the maids of the -town, having their thumbs tied behind them, run after it, and she that -with her mouth takes and holds the lamb is declared <i>Lady of the Lamb</i>, -which, being dressed, with the skin hanging on, is carried on a long -pole before the Lady and her companions to the Green, attended with -music, and a morisco dance of men and another of women, when the rest of -the day is spent in dancing, mirth, and merry glee. The next day the -lamb is part baked, boiled, and roast, for the Lady’s feast, where she -sits majestically at the upper end of the table, and her companions with -her, with music and other attendants, which ends the -solemnity.”<a name="anc_xvi_129" id="anc_xvi_129"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_129"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_129]</span></a></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>THE KID.</h3> - -<p>The kid was one of the most delicate dishes of the Hebrews: Rebecca -prepared some for Isaac, in order to dispose him to give his blessing to -Jacob.<a name="anc_xvi_130" id="anc_xvi_130"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_130"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_130]</span></a> Moses ordered that, for the Feast of Passover, a lamb or -a kid should be slain.<a name="anc_xvi_131" id="anc_xvi_131"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_131"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_131]</span></a> Samson carried a kid to his young wife -when he wished to be reconciled to her.<a name="anc_xvi_132" id="anc_xvi_132"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_132"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_132]</span></a> The brother of the -prodigal son complains to his father that he has never given him a kid -to make merry with his friends.<a name="anc_xvi_133" id="anc_xvi_133"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_133"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_133]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Egyptians, who represented their god Pan with the face and legs of a -goat, abstained religiously from killing a kid or eating its -flesh.<a name="anc_xvi_134" id="anc_xvi_134"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_134"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_134]</span></a> Their veneration for this animal went so far, in some -countries, that goat-keepers appeared in their eyes invested with an -august and sacred character.<a name="anc_xvi_135" id="anc_xvi_135"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_135"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_135]</span></a> The Greeks did not judge it -convenient to adopt these strange ideas, although on other points their -theology was sufficiently ridiculous. The kid was considered one of the -most dainty dishes in state banquets; it was served whole, on a silver -basin, to each of the guests at the wedding of the Macedonian, -Caranus.<a name="anc_xvi_136" id="anc_xvi_136"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_136"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_136]</span></a></p> - -<p>The kids of Attica were especially praised, and a considerable trade<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_149" id="page_149"></a>{149}</span> -was made of them in Athens.<a name="anc_xvi_137" id="anc_xvi_137"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_137"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_137]</span></a> Certain connoisseurs, whose -authority had weight, preferred, however, those produced in the Island -of Mælos.<a name="anc_xvi_138" id="anc_xvi_138"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_138"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_138]</span></a> A great many also came from Sicily: they were in less -repute, and sold at a low price.<a name="anc_xvi_139" id="anc_xvi_139"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_139"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_139]</span></a></p> - -<p>At Rome, the kid of Italy was much thought of; the most delicate were -fattened at Tivoli,<a name="anc_xvi_140" id="anc_xvi_140"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_140"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_140]</span></a> and in different localities of the Roman -Campagna.<a name="anc_xvi_141" id="anc_xvi_141"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_141"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_141]</span></a></p> - -<p><i>Kid à la Trans-Tibérienne.</i>—The kid is to be cooked slowly, with a -little milk, four ounces of honey, an ounce of pepper, a little salt and -benzoin. After some time, add eight dates crushed in a mortar, a little -gravy, garum, a small quantity of excellent wine; the whole is thickened -with fine flour.<a name="anc_xvi_142" id="anc_xvi_142"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_142"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_142]</span></a></p> - -<p><i>Roast Kid à la Janiculum.</i>—Empty and carefully clean a kid; rub it -well with oil and pepper; sprinkle with salt and a large quantity of -coriander seed; place it in the oven, and bake slowly.<a name="anc_xvi_143" id="anc_xvi_143"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_143"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_143]</span></a></p> - -<p><i>Kid à la Tarpéienne.</i>—Empty the kid; stuff it, and sew it up; then -entirely cover it with a thick mixture of pepper, rue, winter savory, -onions, a small quantity of thyme, and some garum; then place it in an -oven, or on a dish, covered with oil. When the kid is cooked, you -surround it with a sauce of winter savory, onions, rue, dates, mixed -with wine, oil, and cooked wine; sprinkle with pepper, and -serve.<a name="anc_xvi_144" id="anc_xvi_144"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_144"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_144]</span></a></p> - -<p><i>Kid à la Tivoli.</i>—Bake the kid; then pound some pepper, rue, onions, -winter savory, and Damascus plums (without their stones), a little -benzoin, which you must dilute in wine, garum, and oil; throw this sauce -on the kid as you withdraw it from the oven, and, at the moment of -serving, cover it with boiling wine.<a name="anc_xvi_145" id="anc_xvi_145"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_145"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_145]</span></a></p> - -<p><i>Kid à la Mélissienne.</i>—Draw the kid at the neck, and clean the -intestines; then pound some pepper, alisander, benzoin root, two bay -leaves, and a little Spanish camomile; add two or three brains; mix them -well together; then add some garum and a little salt; afterwards, a -small quantity of milk and honey. Fill the intestines with this -stuffing, and place them round the kid, which you then put into a large -basin on the fire. When half-cooked, you must add a mixture of garum, -oil, and wine. Then bruise some pepper and alisander seed, which moisten -with the gravy of the kid, and a little cooked wine; pour it into the -basin, and the moment before serving thicken with fine flour.<a name="anc_xvi_146" id="anc_xvi_146"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_146"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_146]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_150" id="page_150"></a>{150}</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>THE ASS.</h3> - -<p>The ass was an impure animal, according to the law of Moses, whose flesh -was forbidden because it did not ruminate.<a name="anc_xvi_147" id="anc_xvi_147"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_147"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_147]</span></a> However, at the -siege of Samaria, the Jews were compelled to eat it for want of other -food. The famine was such, that the head of an ass was sold for eighty -pieces of silver.<a name="anc_xvi_148" id="anc_xvi_148"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_148"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_148]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Roman peasants thought the flesh of the young ass had a very -agreeable taste,<a name="anc_xvi_149" id="anc_xvi_149"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_149"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_149]</span></a> and regaled themselves with it at their rustic -festivals. The celebrated Mecænas one day tasted of this dish at the -house of one of his free slaves; he spoke of it with much praise, caused -it to be served on his own table, and even succeeded in introducing it -on those of the great and rich, who gave up the onager, or wild ass, -which they had hitherto preferred, to humour this illustrious favourite. -But this new gastronomic conquest had only a short vogue; and was -forgotten after the death of Mecænas.<a name="anc_xvi_150" id="anc_xvi_150"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_150"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_150]</span></a> Galen tells us that the -cooks of Alexandria thought much of the ass,<a name="anc_xvi_151" id="anc_xvi_151"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_151"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_151]</span></a> whose flesh, he -says, much resembles that of the stag.<a name="anc_xvi_152" id="anc_xvi_152"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_152"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_152]</span></a> Still, this great -physician disapproves of the use of this food, which he considers -unsuited to mankind.<a name="anc_xvi_153" id="anc_xvi_153"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_153"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_153]</span></a></p> - -<p>It is asserted, even at the present day, that the flesh of the young ass -is a pretty good dish; we have heard, but we hardly can repeat it, that -much is consumed in the <i>guinguettes</i> round Paris, where the artless -customers are far from thinking that anything else but veal can be -served to them.</p> - -<p>The modern restaurateurs of the Barrières of Paris, have, perhaps, read -the biography of Mecænas, and endeavour to render popular the dish so -honoured by the celebrated favourite. Who can blame them?</p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>THE DOG.</h3> - -<p>We must beg pardon of the reader for informing him that the dog -presented a very relishing dish to many nations advanced in culinary -science. To them, one of these animals, young, plump, and delicately -prepared, appeared excellent food.<a name="anc_xvi_154" id="anc_xvi_154"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_154"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_154]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_151" id="page_151"></a>{151}</span></p> - -<p>The Greeks, that people so charming by their seductive folly, their love -of the arts, their poetic civilization, and the intelligent spirit of -research presiding over their dishes—the Greeks (we grieve to say it) -ate dogs, and even dared to think them good: the grave Hippocrates -himself—the most wise, the least gluttonous, and therefore the most -impartial of their physicians—was convinced that this quadruped -furnished a wholesome and, at the same time, a light food.<a name="anc_xvi_155" id="anc_xvi_155"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_155"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_155]</span></a></p> - -<p>As to the Romans, they also liked it,<a name="anc_xvi_156" id="anc_xvi_156"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_156"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_156]</span></a> and no doubt prepared it -in the same manner as the hare, which they thought it resembled in -taste.<a name="anc_xvi_157" id="anc_xvi_157"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_157"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_157]</span></a></p> - -<p>However, it is but right to add, that this dish, which we will not even -hear mentioned, was never favourably received by the fashionable portion -of Roman society, and that the legislators of ancient gastrophagy even -repulsed it with disdain.</p> - -<p>There is every reason to believe that the people regaled themselves with -a roast or boiled dog, especially once a year, at the period when they -celebrated the deliverance of the Capitol from the siege of the Gauls. -It is known that, at this solemnity, a goose, laid on a soft cushion, -was carried in triumph, followed by an unhappy dog nailed to a -cross,<a name="anc_xvi_158" id="anc_xvi_158"></a><a href="#footnote-xvi_158"><span class="fnanchor">[XVI_158]</span></a> whose loud cries greatly amused the populace. In this -manner they commemorated the signal service rendered by one animal, and -the fatal negligence of the other. The Gauls scaled the Capitol while -the dogs slept, and Rome had been lost if the deafening cries of the -geese had not given an alarm to the garrison, who, it must be allowed, -should have kept better watch.</p> - -<p>The quadrupeds last mentioned are the only domestic animals of the kind -used as food by the ancients. The chase afforded them several others, -which we shall mention, after having just glanced at the poultry—one of -the most interesting divisions in natural history for the serious and -reflective appreciator of gastronomic productions.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_152" id="page_152"></a>{152}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="XVII" id="XVII"></a>XVII.<br /><br /> -POULTRY.</h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">The</span> air is less dense than the earth, said Aristotle; poultry ought, -then, to stand higher in estimation than quadrupeds.<a name="anc_xvii_1" id="anc_xvii_1"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_1"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_1]</span></a> It is, adds -Galen, the lightest and best of all aliments.<a name="anc_xvii_2" id="anc_xvii_2"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_2"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_2]</span></a> After this, would -any one dare to accuse of sensuality those who, wisely following the -diet recommended by these great men, prefer a fat capon or delicate -fowl, to heavy, common butcher’s meat?</p> - -<p>Our masters, the ancients, have left us fine examples on this head. In -vain did impertinent sumptuary laws, enemies of progress, strive to -repress the luxury of the farm-yards. These precautions on behalf of -abstinence against the magiric genius were unceasingly met by a -resistance, as energetic as it was truly Roman. Fannius, Archius, -Cornelius, could make martyrs; but let us say, with pride, good cheer -never had cause to envy them deserters and apostates. One of these -tyrannical decrees was just published; a tribune of the people, a man of -heart and taste, undertook to have it repealed. He courageously mounted -the rostrum, and cried, with an inspired voice: “Romans! you are treated -like slaves. By the gods! what can be more strange than the new law? -They would force you to sobriety, whether you will or no! They would -impose temperance on you! Ah! renounce this pretended liberty, of which -you are so jealous, since you are no longer allowed to ruin yourselves, -each one according to his fancy, or die of indigestion if you please.”</p> - -<p>This discourse was received as it deserved to be, and unanimous applause -proved to the orator that he was addressing men capable of understanding -him. But, alas! this excellent tribune had a dangerous<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_153" id="page_153"></a>{153}</span> enemy: the -censor, Lucius Flaccus, a sort of fanatic teetotaller and carniphobis of -that time, had sufficient credit to cause this worthy citizen to be -driven from the senate. But Rome revenged him by devouring more poultry -than ever.<a name="anc_xvii_3" id="anc_xvii_3"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_3"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_3]</span></a></p> - -<p>In the early ages of the Church, poultry in general was regarded as a -food for fast days; and this opinion was founded on the text in Genesis, -where it is said that birds and fishes were created on the fifth day, -whereas quadrupeds were created on the sixth.<a name="anc_xvii_4" id="anc_xvii_4"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_4"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_4]</span></a></p> - -<p>St. Benedict, in his rule, does not formally forbid the monks any other -flesh than that of quadrupeds; and St. Columbanus, in his, permits the -monks the flesh of poultry, in default of fish. The Greek monks ate it -down to the 10th century.</p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>THE COCK.</h3> - -<p>An object of divine worship in Syria,<a name="anc_xvii_5" id="anc_xvii_5"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_5"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_5]</span></a> the cock was considered by -almost every nation as the emblem of vigilance and courage.<a name="anc_xvii_6" id="anc_xvii_6"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_6"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_6]</span></a> -Thus, heathen antiquity consecrated it to the god of battles.<a name="anc_xvii_7" id="anc_xvii_7"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_7"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_7]</span></a> -Themistocles, marching with his army against Xerxes, King of Persia, met -with some cocks fighting furiously; he made his troops halt, that they -might observe them, and he then addressed a spirited discourse to them -on the subject. He conquered, and on his return to Athens, desired that -every year a cock-fight should commemorate his victory.<a name="anc_xvii_8" id="anc_xvii_8"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_8"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_8]</span></a> These -cruel games soon spread throughout Greece, and feathered champions were -reared with great care, and obtained at a high price from Rhodes, -Bœotia, Mela, and Chalcis.<a name="anc_xvii_9" id="anc_xvii_9"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_9"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_9]</span></a></p> - -<p>Italy also wished to enjoy this barbarous pastime. At Pergamus, any -spectator might throw a cock into the arena, and a prize was awarded to -the lucky possessor of the bird who remained master of the field of -battle.<a name="anc_xvii_10" id="anc_xvii_10"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_10"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_10]</span></a></p> - -<p>This warlike bird has never enjoyed a high culinary reputation; -nevertheless, it was eaten when old, that is to say, at that period of -its life when its flesh, hard, fibrous, and tough, possesses neither -juice nor flavour—then this wretched food was left to those among the -common people who joyously feasted in the drinking-shops of Rome. They,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_154" id="page_154"></a>{154}</span> -however, always avoided making fricassees of white cocks, because they -were consecrated to the month, and proclaimed the hours.<a name="anc_xvii_11" id="anc_xvii_11"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_11"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_11]</span></a></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>THE CAPON.</h3> - -<p>The cock being banished from the table of all respectable people, the -necessity of dressing hens became evident, for it was necessary to live. -Now, you are aware that there are two sorts of hens; one sort -consumptive looking and tough, the other tender, plump, and before which -an epicure banishes every other thought, and sighs with pleasure. These -last were preferred, and, in order to render them more worthy of the -voluptuous epicures for whom they were intended, they learned from the -inhabitants of the island of Cos the art of fattening them in dark and -closed places, with certain wonderful pastes, which increased their -delicacy and tempting whiteness.<a name="anc_xvii_12" id="anc_xvii_12"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_12"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_12]</span></a></p> - -<p>This ingenious invention belonged to Greece and Asia. Rome possessed -herself of it, and even improved it; but soon the constant tyrant of the -kitchen, the Consul, C. Fannius, who thought bad what others thought -good, and who pretended that in consequence of the immense consumption -made of them, the result would be that not a living hen would be left in -the empire, ordered that for the future the Romans should dispense with -fattening and eating this delicious winged animal.<a name="anc_xvii_13" id="anc_xvii_13"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_13"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_13]</span></a></p> - -<p>Fortunately, the law said nothing about young cocks; this silence saved -Roman gastronomy, and the capon was invented.<a name="anc_xvii_14" id="anc_xvii_14"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_14"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_14]</span></a> It is not -necessary to relate with what transports of delight this new creation -was greeted; it will be easily understood. Rome was moved; the famous -Greek cooks, who consecrated their science to <i>her</i>, were on tip-toe. -Everywhere, from mouth to mouth, spread the name of the skilful -enchanter, who could in such a manner metamorphose the clarion of the -farm yard. Fannius, himself, it is said, wished to be assured of the -truth of the prodigy: he was served with a roast capon, and the praises -he bestowed on it were assuredly the triumph of the bird, of epicures, -and of art.<a name="anc_xvii_15" id="anc_xvii_15"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_15"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_15]</span></a> From this remarkable epoch, nearly all chickens -underwent the ingenious transformation which rendered them so welcome to -all Lucullian tables;<a name="anc_xvii_16" id="anc_xvii_16"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_16"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_16]</span></a> and it caused such a destruction of -birds, that<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_155" id="page_155"></a>{155}</span> the consul repented, but too late, that he had only named -hens in his sumptuary law.</p> - -<p><i>Capon à la Déliaque.</i>—Draw completely a fat capon; then bruise pepper, -alisander, and ginger, which you must mix with sausage-meat and fine -flour, and a pig’s brains cooked; add some eggs, then some garum, a -little oil, whole pepper, and several pine nuts. Make a stuffing of this -mixture, and put it into the capon, which afterwards roast before a slow -fire.<a name="anc_xvii_17" id="anc_xvii_17"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_17"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_17]</span></a></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>THE HEN.</h3> - -<p>The cackling of hens infallibly announced, among the ancients, some -dreadful calamity to the person who had the misfortune to hear -it.<a name="anc_xvii_18" id="anc_xvii_18"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_18"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_18]</span></a> This fatal omen must have rendered a great number of people -unfortunate; for whether she lays eggs, or conducts her young family, a -hen generally cackles.</p> - -<p>They therefore sought to diminish the number of these birds of ill-omen; -they fattened them for eating, and they did right, since, according to -learned physicians, the flesh of these birds is good for weakly persons, -as well as those who are convalescent.<a name="anc_xvii_19" id="anc_xvii_19"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_19"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_19]</span></a> Healthy individuals also -find this food suit them perfectly. In Greece there would have been -something wanting at a feast, if fat hens had not been served. They -embellished the celebrated wedding repast of Caranus; and Athenæus often -speaks of them when describing a grand banquet.<a name="anc_xvii_20" id="anc_xvii_20"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_20"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_20]</span></a></p> - -<p>At Rome, the art of fattening them became a serious occupation, which -was long studied, and had its precepts and rules. Marcus Lœlius -Strabo, belonging to the order of knights, invented aviaries in which -hens were confined;<a name="anc_xvii_21" id="anc_xvii_21"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_21"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_21]</span></a> others sought and discovered the means of -giving to their flesh that particular flavour unperceived by -uncultivated palates, but which the experienced gastrophilist always -appreciates. They patiently gave themselves up to laborious experiments: -a warm, narrow, dark spot received these interesting <i>volatiles</i>; the -feathers of their wings and tails were plucked, and they were gorged -twice a day during three weeks with balls of barley flour mixed with -soft water. Great cleanliness was combined with this diet: their heads -were well cleansed, and care taken that no insect should enter the -aviary.<a name="anc_xvii_22" id="anc_xvii_22"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_22"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_22]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_156" id="page_156"></a>{156}</span></p> - -<p>Afterwards barley flour, kneaded with milk, was preferred; then, instead -of milk, water, and honey were employed. Excellent wheaten bread, soaked -in good wine and hydromel, was also used with success.<a name="anc_xvii_23" id="anc_xvii_23"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_23"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_23]</span></a></p> - -<p>Skilful breeders by these means obtained magnificent hens of an -incredibly exquisite flavour, and which weighed no less than sixteen -pounds.<a name="anc_xvii_24" id="anc_xvii_24"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_24"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_24]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Fannian law unfortunately came, and, as we have before observed, -brought impediments to these beautiful results by interdicting aviaries -and skilfully prepared pastes. It is true that this law allowed a -farm-yard hen to be served at every repast<a name="anc_xvii_25" id="anc_xvii_25"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_25"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_25]</span></a>—<i>mais une poule par -jour est-ce contentement?</i> It became necessary, then, to have recourse -to a <i>mezzo-termine</i>, which was discovered in the capon. But the -favourite dish forbidden by the consular authority was not altogether -abandoned: some faithful epicureans always possessed in the shade -well-furnished aviaries; and it was even then, we are assured, that Rome -and the universe were enriched with the <i>poularde</i>.<a name="anc_xvii_26" id="anc_xvii_26"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_26"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_26]</span></a></p> - -<p><i>Poularde à la Viminale.</i>—Cook a fine hen in its gravy; pound and mix -benzoin, pepper, oil, and garum, a little thyme, fennel seed, cummin, -mint, and rue; stir for a long time; add some vinegar; pound some dates, -and mix them with honey and a little vinegar. Of all this make a -homogeneous seasoning, and pour it on the hen when it is cold.<a name="anc_xvii_27" id="anc_xvii_27"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_27"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_27]</span></a></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>THE CHICKEN.</h3> - -<p>It is certainly surprising that a people so serious as the Romans -generally were, should make the success of the greatest enterprise -depend on the appetite of their famous sacred chickens. They were -brought from the Island of Negropont, and were kept shut up in cages; -their guardian was designated by the name of Pullarius.<a name="anc_xvii_28" id="anc_xvii_28"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_28"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_28]</span></a></p> - -<p>Publius Claudius, constrained to consult these strange prophets before -engaging in a naval combat, ordered them to be fed; they refused to open -their beaks. The incredulous general ordered them at once to be thrown -into the sea, and laughingly exclaimed to the dismayed Pullarius: “Since -they will not eat—well! then let us make them drink.”<a name="anc_xvii_29" id="anc_xvii_29"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_29"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_29]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_157" id="page_157"></a>{157}</span></p> - -<p>Diodorus of Sicily, and some ancient writers, tell us that the -Egyptians, from a remote period, hatched chickens in ovens. This process -is decidedly of the highest antiquity, and was applied to the eggs of -all kinds of poultry.<a name="anc_xvii_30" id="anc_xvii_30"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_30"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_30]</span></a> In the last century, Réaumur tried -various experiments, and recovered this art, which was thought to have -been lost; others again have followed the steps of this skilful -observer, and, at the present day, obtain the most satisfactory results.</p> - -<p>Chickens have ever been considered an estimable food, and hardly yielded -to the two glories of their family—the fattened hen and the -capon.<a name="anc_xvii_31" id="anc_xvii_31"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_31"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_31]</span></a> The Greeks served them at all their feasts of ceremony, -and the Romans granted them a distinguished place among the dishes of -the second course.</p> - -<p><i>Apician Macedonia of Chicken.</i>—Chop small the meat of a chicken, which -mix with a kid’s breast, and put it into a saucepan with parsley seed, -dried pennyroyal, dried mint, ginger, green coriander, and raisins; then -add three pieces of the finest oaten bread, some honey, vinegar, oil, -and wine; some time after, add some excellent cheese, pine nuts, -cucumbers, and dried onions, well chopped. Pour some gravy over the -whole, and when it is cooked, surround the dish on all sides with snow, -and serve.<a name="anc_xvii_32" id="anc_xvii_32"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_32"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_32]</span></a></p> - -<p><i>Parthian Chicken.</i>—Open the croup dexterously, and put it in the -saucepan; then mix some pepper, alisander, a little carrot, garum, and -wine; fill the chicken with this seasoning; cook well, and sprinkle with -pepper before serving.<a name="anc_xvii_33" id="anc_xvii_33"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_33"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_33]</span></a></p> - -<p><i>Numidian Chicken.</i>—Begin by boiling a chicken for some time; then -place it in a stew-pan, after having sprinkled it with benzoin and -pepper. Afterwards bruise some pepper, cummin, coriander seed, benzoin -root, pine nuts, rue, and dates; add honey, vinegar, garum, and oil; -boil, thicken with fine flour, sprinkle with pepper, and serve.<a name="anc_xvii_34" id="anc_xvii_34"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_34"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_34]</span></a></p> - -<p><i>Chicken à la Frontonienne.</i>—Half cook a chicken, and then put into the -saucepan garum, oil, a bunch of dill, some leeks, winter savory, and -green coriander. You then sprinkle with pepper, and serve.<a name="anc_xvii_35" id="anc_xvii_35"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_35"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_35]</span></a></p> - -<p><i>Chicken à la Cœlienne.</i>—Cook a chicken with garum, oil, wine, -coriander seed, and onion. Then put some milk and a little salt into -another saucepan, with honey and a little water, and cook this mixture -over a very slow fire. Throw in by degrees some raspings of sweet -biscuits, and take care to stir continually. Put the chicken into this -sauce, and then serve with a seasoning of pepper, alisander, and wild<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_158" id="page_158"></a>{158}</span> -marjoram, mixed with honey and cooked vine, which must be boiled and -thickened with fine flour.<a name="anc_xvii_36" id="anc_xvii_36"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_36"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_36]</span></a></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>THE DUCK.</h3> - -<p>The duck swims so well it was thought to be paying a compliment to -Neptune by sacrificing it to him.<a name="anc_xvii_37" id="anc_xvii_37"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_37"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_37]</span></a> The god of the seas never -found fault with this offering.</p> - -<p>Attica and the whole of Greece sought the beautiful ducks of -Bœotia,<a name="anc_xvii_38" id="anc_xvii_38"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_38"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_38]</span></a> and that province was always found to have supplied -a larger number than it reared. It is true the poulterers of Athens, -banishing all scruples of conscience, rarely failed to satisfy their -customers as to the doubtful origin of a white <i>nêssa</i> (duck), by taking -Neptune to witness that it was a pure Bœotian, a real duck, as they -said emphatically, of that species so much appreciated by connoisseurs. -Future <i>quidnuncs</i> will examine whether the friendly duck of the English -and the political and literary <i>canard</i> of the French have, or have not, -found their way from Greece, after wandering a little on the road.</p> - -<p>There were ducks at that prodigious dinner of the opulent Caranus, of -whom we have already spoken several times. They were always served at -the tables of the rich Greeks;<a name="anc_xvii_39" id="anc_xvii_39"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_39"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_39]</span></a> and Archigenes reckons them -among the viands which agree best with the stomach.<a name="anc_xvii_40" id="anc_xvii_40"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_40"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_40]</span></a> Cato was of -the same opinion; and, if we are to believe Plutarch, he made them the -food of those of his family who were ill, and boasted of maintaining his -children, servants, and himself in perfect health, by the aid of this -diet alone.<a name="anc_xvii_41" id="anc_xvii_41"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_41"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_41]</span></a> It was the same idea that made Mithridates mix the -flesh of ducks with all he ate, as an antidote against poison, which he -feared.<a name="anc_xvii_42" id="anc_xvii_42"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_42"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_42]</span></a></p> - -<p>Hippocrates evinces a contrary opinion. The flesh of this bird seemed to -him hard, heavy, and indigestible.<a name="anc_xvii_43" id="anc_xvii_43"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_43"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_43]</span></a> Avicenna goes still further: -he threatens all who eat it with fever.<a name="anc_xvii_44" id="anc_xvii_44"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_44"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_44]</span></a> The Romans were no more -frightened than the Greeks at the decision of the father of medicine. -Lentulus, one of the high magiric authorities of Rome, ordered that the -duck should figure in the most honourable manner at the brilliant feast -of which Macrobius has preserved us an account.<a name="anc_xvii_45" id="anc_xvii_45"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_45"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_45]</span></a> It must, -however, be remembered that polite people, who observed the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_159" id="page_159"></a>{159}</span> forms and -usages of society, only offered to their guests the breast and head of -this biped; the remainder returned to the kitchen.<a name="anc_xvii_46" id="anc_xvii_46"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_46"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_46]</span></a></p> - -<p><i>Ducks’ Brains à l’Epicurienne.</i>—Cook some ducks’ brains, and mince -them very small; then place in a saucepan, with pepper, cummin, benzoin -root, garum, sweet wine, and oil; add milk and eggs, and submit the -whole to the action of a slow fire, or rather, cook them in a -<i>bain-marie</i>.<a name="anc_xvii_47" id="anc_xvii_47"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_47"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_47]</span></a></p> - -<p><i>Apicius’s Seasoning for a Roast Duck.</i>—Make a mixture of pepper, -cummin, alisander, mint, stoned raisins, or Damascus plums; add a little -honey and myrtle wine; place it in a saucepan; cook, and then add to -these substances vinegar, garum, and oil; afterwards some parsley and -savory; serve with the roast duck.<a name="anc_xvii_48" id="anc_xvii_48"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_48"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_48]</span></a></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>THE GOOSE.</h3> - -<p>When a flock of geese are obliged to pass Mount Taurus—the dreaded -abode of their enemies, the eagles—each of them takes the precaution to -hold a stone in its beak, in order that he may keep a profound silence, -which, otherwise, his natural loquacity would render -impossible.<a name="anc_xvii_49" id="anc_xvii_49"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_49"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_49]</span></a> This, if true, would justify Aristotle in -attributing foresight to the goose;<a name="anc_xvii_50" id="anc_xvii_50"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_50"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_50]</span></a> a quality which Scaliger -also claims for this bird.<a name="anc_xvii_51" id="anc_xvii_51"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_51"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_51]</span></a></p> - -<p>The ancients highly esteemed its flesh. Homer<a name="anc_xvii_52" id="anc_xvii_52"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_52"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_52]</span></a> and -Athenæus<a name="anc_xvii_53" id="anc_xvii_53"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_53"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_53]</span></a> speak with praise of the fat geese and goslings which -the Greeks ate.</p> - -<p>The Egyptians served them at their meals every day; it was, with veal, -the favourite dish of their monarchs,<a name="anc_xvii_54" id="anc_xvii_54"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_54"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_54]</span></a> and they did not forget -to offer some to King Agesilaus, when he was travelling through the -country.<a name="anc_xvii_55" id="anc_xvii_55"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_55"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_55]</span></a></p> - -<p>Some eastern nations were impressed with such deep veneration for this -bird that they swore by nothing else.<a name="anc_xvii_56" id="anc_xvii_56"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_56"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_56]</span></a> The Britons honoured it, -and forbad all persons to do it the least harm.<a name="anc_xvii_57" id="anc_xvii_57"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_57"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_57]</span></a> It remained for -Queen Elizabeth to prove, at her joyous dinners of the 29th September, -that tastes and usages are modified by time.<a name="anc_xvii_58" id="anc_xvii_58"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_58"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_58]</span></a> And moreover, many -centuries before, her ancestors had been greatly wanting in respect -towards a particular kind of goose, which they roasted without any -ceremony.<a name="anc_xvii_59" id="anc_xvii_59"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_59"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_59]</span></a> A well-deserved sentiment of gratitude rendered them -dear<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_160" id="page_160"></a>{160}</span> to the Romans: their noisy clamour had formerly saved the -Capitol.<a name="anc_xvii_60" id="anc_xvii_60"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_60"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_60]</span></a> They became for them, as for the Egyptians,<a name="anc_xvii_61" id="anc_xvii_61"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_61"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_61]</span></a> a -symbol of safety, and were reared, both in town and country, to guard -the houses.<a name="anc_xvii_62" id="anc_xvii_62"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_62"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_62]</span></a></p> - -<p>Those which were kept, out of gratitude, in the Capitol, were -consecrated to Juno, Isis, Mars, and Priapus,<a name="anc_xvii_63" id="anc_xvii_63"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_63"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_63]</span></a> and every year -one of them was chosen for the brilliant and solemn ceremony we have -already mentioned.<a name="anc_xvii_64" id="anc_xvii_64"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_64"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_64]</span></a></p> - -<p>But, alas! time obscures and effaces all the glories of this world; and -that of the Roman geese, no doubt, had to submit to this sad -fate,<a name="anc_xvii_65" id="anc_xvii_65"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_65"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_65]</span></a> for they were eaten at least a century before the time of -Pliny. Unfortunate bird! Yes, a perfidious art fed them delicately in -the shade, in convenient aviaries, where nothing was wanting for their -comfort, and at the end of a few days the poor victims made but one step -from this dangerous retreat to the place of execution.<a name="anc_xvii_66" id="anc_xvii_66"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_66"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_66]</span></a> The -Emperor Alexander Severus became so fond of this dish, that on his great -festival days they served him with a goose and a pheasant.<a name="anc_xvii_67" id="anc_xvii_67"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_67"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_67]</span></a> -Nothing, in his estimation, could equal the exquisite flavour of these -two birds.</p> - -<p>The luxurious Romans, however, neglected the entire animal, and thought -only of the liver. They invented the art of fattening this viscera, and -of increasing its size to such an extent that it often weighed two -pounds. To obtain this result, they simply fed their victims of -sensuality, during twenty days, with a paste of dried figs and -water.<a name="anc_xvii_68" id="anc_xvii_68"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_68"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_68]</span></a> As soon as the goose was killed, the liver was put to -soak in milk and honey.</p> - -<p>It is not known exactly to whom we are to attribute this gastronomic -discovery. Scipio, Metellus, and Marcus Sejus disputed the glory of the -invention.<a name="anc_xvii_69" id="anc_xvii_69"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_69"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_69]</span></a> At all events, it is certain that the same method -was used in Greece as in Italy; that white geese were chosen in -preference,<a name="anc_xvii_70" id="anc_xvii_70"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_70"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_70]</span></a> and that the fat livers were served roasted, or -fried in the frying-pan, and enveloped in the <i>omentum</i>, a membrane -which we term the caul.<a name="anc_xvii_71" id="anc_xvii_71"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_71"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_71]</span></a> Pliny assures us that Apicius found -means to increase livers to a monstrous size,<a name="anc_xvii_72" id="anc_xvii_72"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_72"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_72]</span></a> which almost -equalled in weight the whole body of the animal.<a name="anc_xvii_73" id="anc_xvii_73"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_73"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_73]</span></a></p> - -<p>The wings and neck of the goose also acquired some favour; the feet were -added, when Messalinus had taught how to peel them by passing them -rapidly over the fire, and then preparing them with cocks’ combs. The -remainder was only good for the common people.<a name="anc_xvii_74" id="anc_xvii_74"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_74"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_74]</span></a></p> - -<p>Stuffed goslings also enjoyed a reputation among the Greeks,<a name="anc_xvii_75" id="anc_xvii_75"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_75"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_75]</span></a> -who fattened them by giving them, three times a day, during a month, a<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_161" id="page_161"></a>{161}</span> -mixture of bran and flour, moistened with hot water (two parts of flour -and four parts of bran); but, if Palladius is to be believed, it is much -better to feed them solely with millet, and as much water as they may -require.<a name="anc_xvii_76" id="anc_xvii_76"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_76"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_76]</span></a></p> - -<p><i>Sejus Seasoning.</i>—Bruise pepper, alisander, coriander, mint, and rue; -mix with it garum and a little oil; pour it over the roast goose, and -serve.<a name="anc_xvii_77" id="anc_xvii_77"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_77"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_77]</span></a></p> - -<p><i>Apician Seasoning for a Roast Goose’s Liver.</i>—Crush in a mortar, and -then well mix, pepper, carrots, cummin, parsley-seed, thyme, onions, -benzoin root, and fried pine nuts; add honey, vinegar, garum, and oil, -and serve with the roast liver in the omentum.<a name="anc_xvii_78" id="anc_xvii_78"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_78"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_78]</span></a></p> - -<p><i>Boiled Goose à la Gauloise.</i>—Boil a goose with garum, oil, wine, a -bunch of leeks, coriander, and savory; then crush pepper and pine nuts, -to which put a little water. Then take the leeks, coriander, and savory -out of the saucepan; put in their place the mixture mentioned, add some -milk, boil it, thicken with whites of eggs, and serve.<a name="anc_xvii_79" id="anc_xvii_79"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_79"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_79]</span></a></p> - -<p>In the sixteenth century they had dark cages, in which they fattened -poultry with ground tares, wheaten flour, and barley meal. Capons -fattened in hutches, where they could not turn, nor even stir, were -esteemed delicious. They fed pigeons on the crumb of bread, steeped in -wine; peacocks on the sediment from cider.</p> - -<p>On Michaelmas Day, the 29th of September, many persons in England eat -roast goose for their dinner. It is said that this custom dates from the -time of Queen Elizabeth, who was being served with a piece of goose on -Michaelmas Day, at the very moment when news was brought of the defeat -of the famous Armada. Some persons affirm that the Queen expressed a -desire that this dish might, each year, serve to perpetuate the -remembrance of so signal a victory. Would it not be more simple to -suppose that Elizabeth herself already conformed to a custom which had -existed before her time?<a name="anc_xvii_80" id="anc_xvii_80"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_80"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_80]</span></a></p> - -<p>At Mans, instead of letting the poultry eat freely, they are shut up in -a dark place, and made to swallow pellets of about two inches long and -one thick, composed of two parts of barley flour, and one of maize, made -with sufficient quantity of milk.</p> - -<p>“In the time when the French had a decided taste for spices and -aromatics, they imagined to vary at will the flavour and perfume of the -flesh of fowls. With the paste used to fatten them was mixed musk, -anise-seed, and comfits, with other aromatic drugs. A Queen was known<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_162" id="page_162"></a>{162}</span> -to spend 1,500 francs (£60) in fattening three geese, whose livers she -wished to render more delicate.”—<span class="smcap">Parmentier.</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>THE PIGEON.</h3> - -<p>The dove, a bird so dear to Venus,<a name="anc_xvii_81" id="anc_xvii_81"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_81"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_81]</span></a> served ambrosia to -Jupiter,<a name="anc_xvii_82" id="anc_xvii_82"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_82"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_82]</span></a> and became the interpreter of Dodona’s -oracles.<a name="anc_xvii_83" id="anc_xvii_83"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_83"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_83]</span></a> Several nations consecrated it to their gods.<a name="anc_xvii_84" id="anc_xvii_84"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_84"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_84]</span></a> -The Jews discovered in it the image of the sweetest virtues,<a name="anc_xvii_85" id="anc_xvii_85"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_85"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_85]</span></a> of -beauty, innocence, and purity;<a name="anc_xvii_86" id="anc_xvii_86"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_86"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_86]</span></a> and they sacrificed it to the -Almighty, as a burnt offering agreeable to His unspeakable -holiness.<a name="anc_xvii_87" id="anc_xvii_87"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_87"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_87]</span></a></p> - -<p>This was because the dove or pigeon (begging pardon, here, for mixing -varieties) is to the hawk, according to an expression of a father of the -Church, what the lamb is to the wolf,<a name="anc_xvii_88" id="anc_xvii_88"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_88"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_88]</span></a>—a symbol of good by the -side of evil, or of a calm and peaceful conscience, as opposed to the -sad and agitated criminal. But, alas! the ancient prerogatives of this -tender bird, its candour and innocence, could not even preserve it from -the fate common to almost everything which breathes. Its delicate -flesh—fatal gift of Heaven!—recommended it to the epicure; not for its -poetical qualities, but for its delicate flavour; and, after many songs -of praise, it was condemned to be roasted.</p> - -<p>From the beginning of the heroic ages, pigeons were caught with snares -and nets,<a name="anc_xvii_89" id="anc_xvii_89"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_89"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_89]</span></a> in order to feed them, and be able to procure some at -once, if required to be served at a repast; for they formed a dainty -dish upon the tables of the most fastidious.<a name="anc_xvii_90" id="anc_xvii_90"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_90"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_90]</span></a> Of course they -figured in the joyous wedding feast of that opulent Caranus who -entertained his guests so sumptuously.<a name="anc_xvii_91" id="anc_xvii_91"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_91"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_91]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Greeks, therefore, used to bring up an immense number of pigeons, -and built for them, in the most open situations, charming pigeon-houses, -in the form of small towers, models of elegance and cleanliness, where -those timid birds found at night a retreat, always fatal to some one -amongst them.<a name="anc_xvii_92" id="anc_xvii_92"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_92"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_92]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Romans introduced in these sorts of edifices the most unusual -luxury.<a name="anc_xvii_93" id="anc_xvii_93"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_93"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_93]</span></a> Each kind of pigeon had a particular home<a name="anc_xvii_94" id="anc_xvii_94"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_94"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_94]</span></a>—a -foolish and expensive taste, which they continually attempted to -embellish. It was,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_163" id="page_163"></a>{163}</span> however, a profitable speculation for those who knew -how to be satisfied with pigeon-houses of more simple appearance. A -brace of rather ordinary pigeons did not cost less than 16s.: the finest -were sold at £4 a pair. It is even known that L. Axius, a Roman knight, -demanded and obtained £6 8<i>s.</i> for two young pigeons intended for a -patrician’s table.<a name="anc_xvii_95" id="anc_xvii_95"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_95"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_95]</span></a></p> - -<p>Physicians of that period greatly praised the flesh of these birds; they -recommended it to the sick and convalescent.<a name="anc_xvii_96" id="anc_xvii_96"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_96"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_96]</span></a></p> - -<p><i>Roast Pigeon, with Servilian Seasoning.</i>—Bruise some dill seeds, dried -mint, and the root of benzoin; add some vinegar, dates, garum, a little -mustard, and oil; stir well; then mix with it some wine reduced to half, -and pour the whole on the roasted pigeon.<a name="anc_xvii_97" id="anc_xvii_97"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_97"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_97]</span></a></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>THE GUINEA HEN.</h3> - -<p>This bird, called by the ancients the “Hen of Numidia,” comes originally -from many burning regions of Africa. In Greece, and especially in Rome, -vanity alone gave it a price which was willingly granted, more on -account of its scarcity than for its taste.<a name="anc_xvii_98" id="anc_xvii_98"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_98"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_98]</span></a> The Guinea hen -appeared at great banquets, when the Amphytrion was more anxious to show -his opulence than to demonstrate the delicacy of his dishes. -Martial,<a name="anc_xvii_99" id="anc_xvii_99"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_99"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_99]</span></a> and Pliny,<a name="anc_xvii_100" id="anc_xvii_100"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_100"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_100]</span></a> the naturalist, raised great -objections against this ostentatious and useless rarity.</p> - -<p><i>Guinea Hen à la Numide.</i>—Cook it; then put it in a saucepan with some -honey and garum; make several incisions in the bird; baste it with its -own gravy, and sprinkle with pepper previously to its being -served.<a name="anc_xvii_101" id="anc_xvii_101"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_101"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_101]</span></a></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>THE TURKEY HEN.</h3> - -<p>“There must be two to eat a truffled turkey,” said a gastronomist of the -18th century, to one of his friends—a noted <i>gourmand</i>—who had just -come to pay him a visit. “Two!” replied the visitor, with a smile of -sensuality.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_164" id="page_164"></a>{164}</span> “Yes, two,” answered the first; “I never do otherwise: for -instance, I have a turkey to-day, and of course we must be two.” The -friend, looking earnestly at the other, said: “You, and who else?” -“Why,” answered the gastronomist, “I and the turkey.”</p> - -<p>In Greece, more than one stomach would have been capable of challenging -nobly the voracity of this modern polyphagus: witness the insatiable -greediness of the well-known glutton who complained that nature ought to -have given him a neck as long as the stork, that he might enjoy for a -longer period his eating and drinking.<a name="anc_xvii_102" id="anc_xvii_102"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_102"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_102]</span></a></p> - -<p>But for a long time the Greeks were quite ignorant of the culinary value -of the turkey; it was looked upon as an uncommon curiosity, and not -condemned to the spit. Sophocles, the first who spoke of it, pretended -that those marvellous birds came purposely from some distant climate -beyond the Indies, to bewail the death of Meleager, who took possession -of the throne of Macedonia (279 years <small>B.C.</small>), and who was soon driven -from it.<a name="anc_xvii_103" id="anc_xvii_103"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_103"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_103]</span></a> This Prince, it is reported, carried them away from -barbarous regions, that they might enjoy the charms of Greek -civilization; and hence could there be anything more natural than to -find those compassionate volatiles shedding tears for their benefactor, -in one of Sophocles’ tragedies? They have been called since, -Meleagrides, and this name perpetuated “misfortune, favour, and -gratitude.”</p> - -<p>Aristotle hardly supplies us with any details upon turkey hens: he -merely says that their eggs are distinguished by little specks from -those of the common hens, which are white;<a name="anc_xvii_104" id="anc_xvii_104"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_104"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_104]</span></a> but Clytus of -Miletus, his disciple, gives an exact description of them, by which no -mistake can be made.<a name="anc_xvii_105" id="anc_xvii_105"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_105"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_105]</span></a></p> - -<p>Egypt also possessed some of these birds; but there they were still more -rare than in Greece, and formed one of the principal ornaments in the -triumphal pomp of Ptolemy Philadelphus, when he entered Alexandria. -Large cages, containing meleagrides, were carried before the monarch, -and on that day the people knew not which to admire most—the prince or -the turkey.<a name="anc_xvii_106" id="anc_xvii_106"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_106"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_106]</span></a></p> - -<p>They were introduced into Rome about the year 115 before our era; but, -for a long time, they were objects of uncommon curiosity: and Varro, the -first of the Latins who speaks of them, confounds these birds with the -guinea hens, or hens of Numidia.<a name="anc_xvii_107" id="anc_xvii_107"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_107"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_107]</span></a></p> - -<p>A century later, turkeys greatly multiplied, and vast numbers were -reared in the Roman farms. Caligula, who had the good sense to make<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_165" id="page_165"></a>{165}</span> his -own apotheosis during his life-time, through fear lest it might be -refused after his death, ordered a sacrifice of peacocks, guinea hens, -and turkeys to be made daily before his statue.<a name="anc_xvii_108" id="anc_xvii_108"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_108"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_108]</span></a></p> - -<p>It appears, however, that the breed of turkeys soon began to diminish in -Europe; very few were reared, and that only as a curiosity: in the -citadel of Athens, towards the year 540 of the Christian era;<a name="anc_xvii_109" id="anc_xvii_109"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_109"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_109]</span></a> -and in 1510, two were exhibited in Rome, which belonged to the Cardinal -of Saint Clement.<a name="anc_xvii_110" id="anc_xvii_110"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_110"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_110]</span></a> Jacques Cœur brought some meleagrides -from India, in 1450; they were the first ever seen in France, and it was -not till fifty-four years afterwards that Americus Vespucius made them -known to the Portuguese. In our days these ancient inhabitants of Asia -or America<a name="anc_xvii_111" id="anc_xvii_111"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_111"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_111]</span></a> have become naturalized among us, and let us hope -that the day is yet distant when they will be absentees from our -farm-yards and our tables. We admire them less perhaps than Charles IX. -did when a turkey was served to him for the first time,<a name="anc_xvii_112" id="anc_xvii_112"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_112"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_112]</span></a> but we -shall always receive with cheerfulness the majestic dish upon which -appears a well-fed turkey, truffled, and smoking hot.</p> - -<p><i>Turkey à l’Africaine.</i>—Roast a turkey; bruise some pepper, alisander, -and benzoin; mix it with wine and garum. Pour this seasoning on the -turkey, sprinkle with pepper, and serve.<a name="anc_xvii_113" id="anc_xvii_113"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_113"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_113]</span></a></p> - -<p>The historian of Provence, Bouche, will have it that the French are -indebted for the turkey to King René, who died in 1480. Other writers -assure us that this volatile was introduced during the reign of Francis -I. by Admiral Chabert. La-Bruyère-Champier speaks of it as a recent -acquisition, and Beckmann refutes those who date its existence in France -previous to the 16th century. He says that this bird, which was wild in -the forests of America, became domesticated in Europe.</p> - -<p>It is also said that we owe the importation of it to the Jesuits. -According to Hurtaut, it was not until about the time of Charles IX. -that turkeys appeared in France.<a name="anc_xvii_114" id="anc_xvii_114"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_114"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_114]</span></a> It is asserted, adds this -author, that at the wedding-dinner of that Prince the first turkey was -served, and that it was admired as a very extraordinary thing. The -English tasted this new dish in 1525, the fifteenth year of the reign of -Henry VIII.</p> - -<p>To fatten turkeys—every morning, for a month, give them mashed -potatoes, mixed with buck-wheat flour, Indian corn, barley, or beans; a -paste is made of it which they are left to eat as they please. Every -evening what remains must be taken away. One month after, you add to -this food, when they go to roost, half a dozen balls composed of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_166" id="page_166"></a>{166}</span> barley -floor, which they are made to swallow for eight days successively; at -the end of that time turkeys, thus fed, become excessively fat, -delicious, and weigh from twenty to twenty-five pounds.</p> - -<p>In Provence, walnuts are given to them whole, which they are compelled -to swallow by slipping them one by one with the hand along the neck -until they have all past the œsophagus; they begin with one walnut, -and increase by degrees to forty. This kind of food gives an oily taste -to the flesh.</p> - -<p>Turkey eggs are good boiled, and are preferred to those of hens for -pastry; mixing them with the common eggs makes an omelette more -delicate.</p> - -<p>“To obtain all the advantages possible from turkeys, they must be killed -at the same time as pigs; then cut the turkeys in quarters, and put them -in earthen pots covered over with the fat of the pork, and by this means -they may be eaten all the year round.”—<span class="smcap">Parmentier.</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>THE PEACOCK.</h3> - -<p>The peacock comes originally from India: it was there that Alexander the -Great saw it for the first time. He was so struck with its magnificent -plumage that he forbad all persons, under pain of death, to kill -any.<a name="anc_xvii_115" id="anc_xvii_115"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_115"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_115]</span></a></p> - -<p>Oriental princes kept the peacocks which travellers brought them, from -time to time, in their aviaries.<a name="anc_xvii_116" id="anc_xvii_116"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_116"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_116]</span></a> It was thus<a name="anc_xvii_117" id="anc_xvii_117"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_117"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_117]</span></a> that a -certain king of Egypt received one, of which he thought Jupiter alone -worthy; wherefore he sent it in great pomp to the temple of that -god.<a name="anc_xvii_118" id="anc_xvii_118"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_118"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_118]</span></a></p> - -<p>These birds were thus known over various parts of the world. Samos, -which seems to have been provided one of the first, ornamented its money -with their image.<a name="anc_xvii_119" id="anc_xvii_119"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_119"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_119]</span></a> Their reputation soon spread far and -wide;<a name="anc_xvii_120" id="anc_xvii_120"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_120"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_120]</span></a> and Athenian speculators sent to that island for -peacocks, which were shown to the curious once a month.<a name="anc_xvii_121" id="anc_xvii_121"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_121"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_121]</span></a></p> - -<p>This variety became afterwards an article of commerce, and all wealthy -people became desirous to have them. A male and female cost £8 -sterling.<a name="anc_xvii_122" id="anc_xvii_122"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_122"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_122]</span></a> But what was that, when delighted eyes could -contemplate the charming and lovely colours of the haughty favourite of -Juno!</p> - -<p>At Rome, the peacock had a prodigious success.<a name="anc_xvii_123" id="anc_xvii_123"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_123"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_123]</span></a> When alive, -the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_167" id="page_167"></a>{167}</span> Romans praised its beauty; when dead, it appeared on the tables of -its enthusiastic admirers.</p> - -<p>Quintus Hortensius, the orator, was the first who had them served in a -banquet given by him on the occasion of being created an -augur.<a name="anc_xvii_124" id="anc_xvii_124"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_124"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_124]</span></a> This gastronomic novelty made an extraordinary -sensation at Rome—as might be expected—and the peacock became so much -in fashion, that no banquet could possibly be given unless it was -embellished by its presence.<a name="anc_xvii_125" id="anc_xvii_125"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_125"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_125]</span></a></p> - -<p>Marcus Aufidius Livio was the first to contrive a sure way to fatten -them;<a name="anc_xvii_126" id="anc_xvii_126"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_126"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_126]</span></a> and he succeeded so well that he made prodigious sums -every year by the sale of those birds.<a name="anc_j" id="anc_j"></a><a href="#footnote_j"><span class="fnanchor">[J]</span></a></p> - -<p>Horace preferred them to the finest poultry,<a name="anc_xvii_127" id="anc_xvii_127"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_127"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_127]</span></a> and distinguished -amateurs thought that it was not paying much for a young peacock if they -could get it for two pounds and three shillings.<a name="anc_xvii_128" id="anc_xvii_128"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_128"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_128]</span></a></p> - -<p>The ridiculous consumption which was made of these birds did not allow -of their becoming very common. Tiberius reared some in his gardens; and -he condemned to capital punishment a soldier of his guards who had the -misfortune to kill one.<a name="anc_xvii_129" id="anc_xvii_129"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_129"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_129]</span></a></p> - -<p>Ultimately, more savoury or more rare dishes took the place of peacocks’ -flesh, which then began to be thought hard, unwholesome, and of -difficult digestion.<a name="anc_xvii_130" id="anc_xvii_130"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_130"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_130]</span></a> However, it re-appeared in the middle -ages at the nuptial festivities of the rich, where one of these birds -was served, as if alive, with the beak and claws gilded. To do that -well, it was necessary to skin the bird very carefully, and then cook it -with aromatics, such as cinnamon, cloves, &c. It was then covered with -its skin and feathers, and served without any appearance of having been -stripped. This luxury was to gratify the sight: nobody touched it. The -peacock was thus preserved for several years without being damaged—a -property believed to be peculiar to its flesh,<a name="anc_xvii_131" id="anc_xvii_131"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_131"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_131]</span></a> but which was -owing, no doubt, to the aromatics just mentioned.</p> - -<p><i>Peacock of Samos.</i>—Mix some pepper, alisander, parsley, dill flowers, -dried mint, and filberts, or fried almonds; bruise them with green -smallage<a name="anc_k" id="anc_k"></a><a href="#footnote_k"><span class="fnanchor">[K]</span></a> and pennyroyal, and mix the whole with wine, honey, vinegar, -and garum. Make incisions in the bird, and cover it with this -seasoning.<a name="anc_xvii_132" id="anc_xvii_132"></a><a href="#footnote-xvii_132"><span class="fnanchor">[XVII_132]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_168" id="page_168"></a>{168}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="XVIII" id="XVIII"></a>XVIII.<br /><br /> -MILK, BUTTER, CHEESE, AND EGGS.</h2> - -<hr /> - -<h3>MILK.</h3> - -<p>It would, probably, be impossible to trace the epoch at which man began -to make use of milk as food. Abraham presented some to the three angels -who appeared to him in the valley of Mamre;<a name="anc_xviii_1" id="anc_xviii_1"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_1"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_1]</span></a> and it is likely, -that long before that patriarch, the eastern nations had recourse to an -aliment so easily acquired, and which their numerous flocks produced in -such abundance.</p> - -<p>Among the Jews, milk was always considered as an emblem of the wealth of -a country and the fertility of its soil; so much so, that the sacred -books almost invariably speak of a happy region, as one “flowing with -milk and honey.”<a name="anc_xviii_2" id="anc_xviii_2"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_2"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_2]</span></a> This metaphorical expression testifies -sufficiently to the taste of the Hebrews for this aliment, which their -King Solomon recommended to them in these terms: “and thou shalt have -goat’s milk enough for thy food, for the food of thy household, and for -the maintenance of thy maidens.”<a name="anc_xviii_3" id="anc_xviii_3"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_3"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_3]</span></a></p> - -<p>Profane antiquity agrees on this point with our holy chroniclers. It -represents to us the first men, free from passions and fears, surrounded -by streams of milk and nectar, from which they drew health and -life.<a name="anc_xviii_4" id="anc_xviii_4"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_4"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_4]</span></a> Happy time! ere milk-maids existed to practise those -deceptions they have now imbibed from the deceitful arts of chemistry.</p> - -<p>The greater part of the wandering tribes, such as the Getes and -Scythians, were galactophagists,<a name="anc_xviii_5" id="anc_xviii_5"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_5"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_5]</span></a> or drinkers of milk;<a name="anc_xviii_6" id="anc_xviii_6"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_6"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_6]</span></a> -the Gauls<a name="anc_xviii_7" id="anc_xviii_7"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_7"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_7]</span></a> and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_169" id="page_169"></a>{169}</span> Germans<a name="anc_xviii_8" id="anc_xviii_8"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_8"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_8]</span></a> made it also their principal -food. In Greece and Italy, the shepherds decorated the vessels in which -they had just milked their flocks with crowns of flowers; and, in honour -of the rural divinities, they scattered about a small quantity of this -sweet liquid.<a name="anc_xviii_9" id="anc_xviii_9"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_9"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_9]</span></a> The reapers offered it to Ceres;<a name="anc_xviii_10" id="anc_xviii_10"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_10"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_10]</span></a> and in -one of the sections of Rome, Mercury was presented with milk instead of -wine.</p> - -<p>The ancients attributed to milk from cows, ewes, and goats, various -Hygeian qualities.<a name="anc_xviii_11" id="anc_xviii_11"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_11"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_11]</span></a> Hippocrates forbade it in cases of -head-ache, fevers, and bilious attacks;<a name="anc_xviii_12" id="anc_xviii_12"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_12"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_12]</span></a> but he sometimes -ordered asses’ milk,<a name="anc_xviii_13" id="anc_xviii_13"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_13"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_13]</span></a> which was considered as an excellent -remedy, and a most wholesome aliment.<a name="anc_xviii_14" id="anc_xviii_14"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_14"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_14]</span></a></p> - -<p>The voluptuous people of Rome rubbed their faces and skins with bread -soaked in asses’ milk, to make them fairer and prevent the beard from -growing too fast.</p> - -<p>Suetonius<a name="anc_xviii_15" id="anc_xviii_15"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_15"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_15]</span></a> and Martial<a name="anc_xviii_16" id="anc_xviii_16"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_16"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_16]</span></a> speak of these refinements of -luxurious delicacies. The satirical Juvenal informs us that bread was -made into a kind of plaster or mask, with which they covered the -face.<a name="anc_xviii_17" id="anc_xviii_17"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_17"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_17]</span></a> Poppæia, wife of Nero, was the first, or one of the -first, to bring this recipe into fashion, being fully persuaded that she -would thus preserve the whiteness and delicacy of her skin. Five hundred -asses used to supply daily the necessary quantity of milk to make the -cosmetic and bath<a name="anc_xviii_18" id="anc_xviii_18"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_18"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_18]</span></a> of the coquettish empress.</p> - -<p>This high patronage did not prevent asses’ milk from losing by -degrees—and very unjustly, no doubt—the reputation it -acquired.<a name="anc_xviii_19" id="anc_xviii_19"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_19"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_19]</span></a></p> - -<p>Fashion—capricious and all-powerful deity—undertook to re-instate its -virtues, after several centuries of profound forgetfulness. The success -was complete. This is how the affair took place:—</p> - -<p>Francis I., finding himself weak and languishing, the physicians, after -a long consultation on the monarch’s illness, advised remedies which did -not cure the royal patient. However, the King of France was getting -worse every day, and his state gave serious apprehensions. Some one -mentioning to his Majesty that a Jew of Constantinople was noted as one -of the cleverest doctors in the world, Francis immediately ordered his -ambassador in Turkey to send him this Israelitish doctor, whatever might -be the cost. The Jew arrived, and prescribed no other remedy than asses’ -milk. The king found himself much better, and the courtiers and ladies -of the court eagerly followed the same diet, even for the slightest -imaginary indisposition.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_170" id="page_170"></a>{170}</span></p> - -<p>A patient, cured by the use of this wholesome and restorative food, -thought of expressing his gratitude by the following stanza:—</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i2">“Par sa bonté, par sa substance<br /></span> -<span class="i0">D’une ânesse le lait m’a rendu la santé;<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Et je dois plus en cette circonstance,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">Aux ânes qu’à la faculté.”<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p><i>Macédoine Germanique of Milk.</i>—Pound dry almonds, and put them into a -stewpan with the following ingredients:—the most delicate parts of -mallows only, and white-beet, some leeks, parsley, and other leguminous -herbs, previously cooked, a fowl boiled and minced small, the brains of -poultry or sucking pigs, also boiled, and lastly, some hard eggs cut in -two. Put all these together, as mentioned before; some little time after -that, add sausage meat, fowls’ livers, fresh cod fish, and oysters—the -whole reduced into pulp—some fresh cheese, pine nuts, and whole pepper. -Whilst this is boiling on a very slow fire, prepare the following -seasoning: pound some pepper, alisander, parsley seeds, and silphium; -stew separately with gravy; mix raw eggs with a great quantity of milk; -add it to the preceding seasoning; pour it over the contents of the -stewpan, then pepper, and serve.<a name="anc_xviii_20" id="anc_xviii_20"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_20"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_20]</span></a></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>BUTTER.</h3> - -<p>A learned writer<a name="anc_xviii_21" id="anc_xviii_21"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_21"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_21]</span></a> has maintained that the ancient inhabitants -of the east did not know of butter, and that by this word must be -understood, when it occurs in the holy writings, <i>sour milk</i> or <i>cream</i>. -Whatever may be the respect due to the grave authority of Beckmann, we -beg leave to adhere to the opinion of various translators of the Bible, -and believe with them that the Jews knew how to prepare butter. -Independently of the signification of <i>chemack</i>, to which a profound -philosopher gives the same sense,<a name="anc_xviii_22" id="anc_xviii_22"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_22"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_22]</span></a> and which appears very -naturally to offer this acceptation, we could still fortify our opinion -by the passage where Job, recalling with sorrow the happy days of his -youth, says, that he used to wash his “feet in butter.”<a name="anc_xviii_23" id="anc_xviii_23"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_23"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_23]</span></a> We -agree that these words are understood in a figurative sense, and that -the man of God wished to show by it that he was the possessor of a great -number of flocks.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_171" id="page_171"></a>{171}</span></p> - -<p>But it is nevertheless true, that this metaphorical locution recalls -also one of the uses made of that fat substance, which was for a long -while employed, like oil, to soften and refresh the limbs.</p> - -<p>Indulgent reader, excuse this episode upon a ground which we ought not -to touch, and let us re-enter the kitchen.</p> - -<p>The Greeks, who understood many things, and knew them so well, passed -over several centuries without once thinking that the milk of their ewes -and cows contained a food already well-known by several barbarous -nations. Aristotle mentions the serous part of milk, and -cheese;<a name="anc_xviii_24" id="anc_xviii_24"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_24"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_24]</span></a> but he hardly suspects the existence of butter, which -he describes but very imperfectly as a liquid oil.<a name="anc_xviii_25" id="anc_xviii_25"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_25"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_25]</span></a> Antecedent -to him, Hippocrates never thought of it, except as a foreign remedy -which Asia supplied to Greece.<a name="anc_xviii_26" id="anc_xviii_26"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_26"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_26]</span></a></p> - -<p>It was only fifty years after Aristotle that it began to be noticed as -an aliment. The Greeks, in imitation of the Parthians and Scythians, who -used to send it to them, had it served upon their tables, and called it -at first “oil of milk,”<a name="anc_xviii_27" id="anc_xviii_27"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_27"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_27]</span></a> and later, <i>bouturos</i>, “cow cheese,” -probably on account of the quantity made from the milk of that -animal.<a name="anc_xviii_28" id="anc_xviii_28"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_28"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_28]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Germans, according to Beckmann, taught the Romans how to make -butter, but they never employed it otherwise than as a remedy in Italy.</p> - -<p>It is certain that in the time of Pliny it had hardly been heard of at -Rome,<a name="anc_xviii_29" id="anc_xviii_29"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_29"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_29]</span></a> and that, according to this writer, the barbarians -only—that is to say, those who were unfortunate enough not to be either -Greeks or Romans—made their food of it.<a name="anc_xviii_30" id="anc_xviii_30"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_30"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_30]</span></a> Towards the year 175 -of the Christian era, Galen then placed butter only among the -therapeutic agents useful in medicine.<a name="anc_xviii_31" id="anc_xviii_31"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_31"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_31]</span></a> However, more than a -century before him, Dioscorides wished it to be noticed that fresh -butter made of ewes’ or goats’ milk was served at meals instead of oil, -and that it took the place of fat in making pastry.<a name="anc_xviii_32" id="anc_xviii_32"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_32"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_32]</span></a></p> - -<p>Herodotus has preserved some interesting details on the manipulation of -butter among the Scythians. They received the milk in large pails, and -beat it for a long time to separate the most delicate part, and -appointed for this labour those enemies whom the fortune of war -delivered into their hands. These unhappy creatures were deprived of -sight, which prevented their escape.<a name="anc_xviii_33" id="anc_xviii_33"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_33"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_33]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Romans set about making butter as we do. Pliny says: “Butter is made -from milk, and this aliment, so much sought after by barbarous<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_172" id="page_172"></a>{172}</span> nations, -distinguished the rich from the common people. It is obtained -principally from cows’ milk; that from ewes is the fattest. Goats also -supply some. It is produced by agitating the milk in long vessels with a -narrow opening. A little water is added.”<a name="anc_xviii_34" id="anc_xviii_34"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_34"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_34]</span></a></p> - -<p>Formerly it was required in many countries that the dealer in this -article should sell good butter to his customers. In France, for -instance, intolerance was carried so far as to forbid “all persons to -re-scrape, beat, or work up any butter, either fresh or salted; change, -mix, or mingle it, under <i>pain of being whipped</i>.”<a name="anc_xviii_35" id="anc_xviii_35"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_35"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_35]</span></a> Since then -the strangeness of such a measure has become palpable, the more so as -modern good faith and honesty render it more useless than ever.</p> - -<p>During the early ages of the Church, butter was burned in the lamps -instead of oil. This practice is still continued in Abyssinia.<a name="anc_xviii_36" id="anc_xviii_36"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_36"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_36]</span></a></p> - -<p>The cathedral of Rouen has a tower, called the “Butter Tower.” It -acquired this name from the fact that George d’Amboise, who was -archbishop of that city in 1500, seeing that oil was scarce in his -diocese during Lent, authorised the use of butter, on condition that -each diocesan should pay <i>six deniers Tournois</i> (about a farthing) for -the permission. The money obtained by these means served to construct -the “Butter Tower.”<a name="anc_xviii_37" id="anc_xviii_37"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_37"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_37]</span></a></p> - -<p>To obtain butter instantly it is only necessary, in summer, to put new -milk into bottles some hours after it has been taken from the cow, and -shake it briskly. The clots which form, thrown into a sieve, washed and -pressed together, constitute the finest and most delicate butter that -can possibly be made.</p> - -<p>One of the great means of preserving butter fresh for any length of time -is, first to press all the buttermilk completely out, then to keep it -under water (renewing the water frequently), and to abstract it from the -influence of heat and air by wrapping it in a wet cloth.</p> - -<p>When butter has become very rancid, it is melted several times by a -moderate heat, with or without the addition of water, and, as soon as it -has been malaxated, after the cooling, in order to extract any water it -may have retained, it is put into brown freestone pots, sheltered from -the contact of the air. Frequently, when it is melted, a piece of -toasted bread is put into it, which acts in the same manner as charcoal; -that is to say, it attenuates the rancidity.<a name="anc_xviii_38" id="anc_xviii_38"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_38"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_38]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_173" id="page_173"></a>{173}</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>CHEESE.</h3> - -<p>A demi-god, Aristæus, the son of Apollo, and King of Arcadia, invented -cheese,<a name="anc_xviii_39" id="anc_xviii_39"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_39"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_39]</span></a> and the whole of Greece welcomed with gratitude this -royal and almost divine present. Sober individuals willingly ate some at -their meals;<a name="anc_xviii_40" id="anc_xviii_40"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_40"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_40]</span></a> gluttons perceived that it sharpened the -appetite; and great drinkers that it provoked copious libations. Thus -the aged Nestor, wise as he was, brought wine to Machaon, who had just -been wounded in the right arm, and did not fail to add to it goat cheese -and an onion, to force him to drink more.<a name="anc_xviii_41" id="anc_xviii_41"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_41"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_41]</span></a></p> - -<p>This food was also well known to the Hebrews, and the holy writings -sometimes mention it.<a name="anc_xviii_42" id="anc_xviii_42"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_42"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_42]</span></a></p> - -<p>Mare’s milk, or that of the ass, makes an excellent cheese, but much -inferior to that procured from the camel, for which an epicure could not -pay too dearly. Cow-milk cheese, although more fat and unctuous, was -only considered as third-rate.<a name="anc_xviii_43" id="anc_xviii_43"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_43"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_43]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Phrygians made exquisite cheese by artistically mixing the milk of -asses and mares. The Scythians only employed the former; the Greeks -imitated them.<a name="anc_xviii_44" id="anc_xviii_44"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_44"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_44]</span></a> The Sicilians also mixed the milk of goats and -ewes.<a name="anc_xviii_45" id="anc_xviii_45"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_45"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_45]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Romans smoked their cheeses, to give them a sharp taste; they -possessed public places expressly for this use, and subject to police -regulations which no one could evade.<a name="anc_xviii_46" id="anc_xviii_46"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_46"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_46]</span></a></p> - -<p>In the time of Pliny, little goat cheeses, which were much esteemed, -were sent every morning to the market for the sale of dainties, from the -environs of Rome.<a name="anc_xviii_47" id="anc_xviii_47"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_47"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_47]</span></a> With the addition of a little bread, they -formed the breakfast of sober and delicate persons. Asia Minor, Tuscany, -the Alps, Gaul, and Nîmes especially, furnished very good ones for the -tables of the Romans,<a name="anc_xviii_48" id="anc_xviii_48"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_48"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_48]</span></a> who sought in preference certain sweet -and soft qualities. The greater part of barbarous nations esteemed only -the strong cheese.<a name="anc_xviii_49" id="anc_xviii_49"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_49"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_49]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Hebrews, Greeks, and Romans, always kept some of these last for the -provision of their armies, and it was among them a military -aliment.<a name="anc_xviii_50" id="anc_xviii_50"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_50"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_50]</span></a> The Athenians fed their wrestlers with it,<a name="anc_xviii_51" id="anc_xviii_51"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_51"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_51]</span></a> -and it was the sole treat of the shepherds of Italy.<a name="anc_xviii_52" id="anc_xviii_52"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_52"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_52]</span></a></p> - -<p>The lower classes and country people prepared with cheese and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_174" id="page_174"></a>{174}</span> various -salted substances a dish they thought most relishing, and which -epicureans only mentioned with horror. This was called <i>tyrotarichus</i>, -and Cicero often employs this word to designate a frugal style of -cookery.<a name="anc_xviii_53" id="anc_xviii_53"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_53"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_53]</span></a></p> - -<p>Besides those countries celebrated for the goodness of cheeses already -mentioned, there is Tromelia, in Achaia,<a name="anc_xviii_54" id="anc_xviii_54"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_54"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_54]</span></a> and the Island of -Cythnus, where they represented their cheeses on their money, an -ingenious manner of making them known, which succeeded wonderfully well; -and lastly, Salonia, a city of Bithynia, renowned for its rich pastures, -where numerous herds of cows were kept, and whose milk furnished an -exquisite kind known by the name of Salonite cheese.<a name="anc_xviii_55" id="anc_xviii_55"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_55"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_55]</span></a> It -appears to have been often served to the Emperor Augustus, who ate it -with brown bread, little fish, and fresh figs.<a name="anc_xviii_56" id="anc_xviii_56"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_56"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_56]</span></a></p> - -<p>The art of giving a relish to the cheese, by mixing with it odoriferous -herbs, is said to be more than nine hundred years old. This operation -was designated <i>persiller</i>, showing that originally parsley was -introduced.<a name="anc_xviii_57" id="anc_xviii_57"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_57"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_57]</span></a> We cannot say whether the Romans made use of this -plant to give a pungency to their cheese, but it is certain that they -often mixed some herbs with it.<a name="anc_xviii_58" id="anc_xviii_58"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_58"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_58]</span></a> Thus Columella informs us that -sometimes the leaves and small branches of the fig tree were used to -communicate an agreeable flavour.<a name="anc_xviii_59" id="anc_xviii_59"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_59"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_59]</span></a> The same writer has -transmitted to us a very simple process, much in use in his time, for -preserving cheese. They first covered it with brine, and then dried it -in a thick smoke obtained from straw or green wood.<a name="anc_xviii_60" id="anc_xviii_60"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_60"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_60]</span></a></p> - -<p>The following are some of the dishes of which cheese served as the -basis:—</p> - -<p><i>Salad of Cheese à la Bithynienne.</i>—Cut some slices of excellent bread; -leave them for some time in vinegar and water; then make a mixture of -this bread with pepper, mint, garlic, and green coriander; throw on it a -good quantity of cow’s cheese salted; add water, oil, and -wine.<a name="anc_xviii_61" id="anc_xviii_61"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_61"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_61]</span></a></p> - -<p><i>Dish of Tromelian Cheese.</i>—Take fresh cheese; mix it well with pepper, -alisander, dried mint, pine nuts, sun raisins, and dates; then add -honey, vinegar, and afterwards, garum, oil, wine, and cooked -wine.<a name="anc_xviii_62" id="anc_xviii_62"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_62"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_62]</span></a></p> - -<p>The celebrated cheese of Rouergue, known under the name of “Roquefort -cheese,” was made, in the 17th century as follows—we cite from -Marcorelle:—<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_175" id="page_175"></a>{175}</span></p> - -<p>“The curd employed is made from sheep’s milk, mixed with a little goat’s -milk. It is broken as small as possible. When it is taken from the -moulds, it is bound with a linen band and taken to the drying room; then -to the caves, where it is rubbed with salt on the two flat sides of the -surface. The downy substance which subsequently covers the crust is -frequently scraped off; after which, it is left to ripen on tablets -exposed to currents of air which proceed from the interstices of the -rocks in which the caves are formed.”</p> - -<p>Besides salt, employed as a seasoning and condiment for cheeses, they -contain in their composition different substances which give rise to an -infinite variety of odours, taste, and colour. In the Vosges, for -example, they mix with the cheese of Gerardmer seeds of plants belonging -to the family of umbellifers; in the country of Limburg, they -incorporate chopped parsley, scallions, and tarragon; the Italians make -use of saffron to colour the Parmesan cheese, and the English of roucou -for the Cheshire cheese. Others are in the habit of cutting away a -portion of the middle of the cheese, and filling the cavity with Malaga -or Canary wine.<a name="anc_xviii_63" id="anc_xviii_63"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_63"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_63]</span></a></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>EGGS.</h3> - -<p>Orpheus, Pythagoras, and their sectators—good and humane people as ever -lived—unceasingly recommended in their discourses to abstain from eggs, -in order not to destroy a germ which nature had destined for the -production of chicken.<a name="anc_xviii_64" id="anc_xviii_64"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_64"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_64]</span></a> Many allowed themselves to be -persuaded, and would have believed it an unpardonable crime if they had -eaten a tiny <i>omelette</i>, or boiled eggs.</p> - -<p>Many of the most learned philosophers held eggs in a kind of respect -approaching to veneration, because they saw in them the emblem of the -world and the four elements. The shell, they said, represented the -earth; the white, water; the yolk, fire; and air was found under the -shell.<a name="anc_xviii_65" id="anc_xviii_65"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_65"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_65]</span></a></p> - -<p>In India and Syria, there was less scruple about swallowing a few eggs; -but the hens were devoutly worshipped, because the world is indebted to -them for chickens.<a name="anc_xviii_66" id="anc_xviii_66"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_66"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_66]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Greeks and Romans, although more reasonable, felt, however,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_176" id="page_176"></a>{176}</span> for -eggs a trifling weakness not exempt from superstition. They already made -use of them in their sacrifices, and carried them with great pomp in the -festivals of Ceres.<a name="anc_xviii_67" id="anc_xviii_67"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_67"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_67]</span></a> For them it was also a symbol of the -universe, and an expiation would not have been complete if some eggs had -not been broken on the altar of the irritated gods.<a name="anc_xviii_68" id="anc_xviii_68"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_68"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_68]</span></a></p> - -<p>Magicians and sorcerers, who abounded in Rome, established singular -fables with regard to eggs. Livia, the happy consort of Nero, being -<i>enceinte</i>, consulted a sorceress, who said to her, “warm in your bosom -a new laid egg until hatched; if a male chicken comes forth, thank the -gods, who will grant you a son.” The empress followed this advice; a -cock chick came, and the princess gave birth to Tiberius.<a name="anc_xviii_69" id="anc_xviii_69"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_69"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_69]</span></a> This -anecdote circulated in Rome, and all ladies in the same interesting -situation, imitating Livia, amused themselves with hatching chickens.</p> - -<p>It appears that the egg played also a most important part in dreams. A -man having dreamed that he had eaten one, went to consult a soothsayer, -who told him that the white signified he would soon have silver, and the -yolk that he would receive gold. The fortunate dreamer really received -very soon afterwards a legacy partly consisting of those two precious -metals. He hastened to thank the diviner, and offered him a piece of -silver. “This is very well for the white,” said the latter, “but is -there nought for the yolk?”<a name="anc_xviii_70" id="anc_xviii_70"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_70"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_70]</span></a> It is not known whether the heir -was generous enough to understand this <i>bon mot</i>.</p> - -<p>All these pagan follies are to be accounted for by the doctrine of the -poet Orpheus, who first taught the Greeks that a primitive egg had -produced all other beings;<a name="anc_xviii_71" id="anc_xviii_71"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_71"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_71]</span></a> a very ancient idea, no doubt, -transmitted to them by the Egyptians, who, as well as the Phœnicians, -Persians, and Chaldeans, represented the world by that symbol.</p> - -<p>It is now time to describe eggs as an aliment.</p> - -<p>The shepherds of Egypt had a singular manner of cooking them without the -aid of fire: they placed them in a sling, which they turned so rapidly -that the friction of the air heated them to the exact point required for -use.<a name="anc_xviii_72" id="anc_xviii_72"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_72"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_72]</span></a></p> - -<p>In Rome and in Greece, new-laid eggs were served at the beginning of a -repast;<a name="anc_xviii_73" id="anc_xviii_73"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_73"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_73]</span></a> and the Roman gourmets asserted that, to maintain -oneself in health, “it was necessary to remain at table from the egg to -the apple.”<a name="anc_xviii_74" id="anc_xviii_74"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_74"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_74]</span></a> We have adopted the half of that proverb, and we -say every day, this story must be taken up <i>ab ovo</i>.</p> - -<p>The Romans did not confine themselves to hens’ eggs, of which they<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_177" id="page_177"></a>{177}</span> -preferred the long ones;<a name="anc_xviii_75" id="anc_xviii_75"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_75"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_75]</span></a> they sought those of the partridge -and pheasant, which Galen considered the most delicate.<a name="anc_xviii_76" id="anc_xviii_76"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_76"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_76]</span></a> They -also thought much of peacocks’ eggs. It was Quintus Hortensius who set -the example of this luxury,<a name="anc_xviii_77" id="anc_xviii_77"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_77"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_77]</span></a> which, however, was discarded by -degrees when the precious fecundity of the hens of Adria began to be -appreciated.<a name="anc_xviii_78" id="anc_xviii_78"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_78"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_78]</span></a></p> - -<p>The ancients appear to have been very partial to soft-boiled eggs, which -may be sucked at once. Nicomachus mentions them: “My father,” says he, -“had left me a poor little estate; in a few months I made it as round as -an egg; then, breaking the shell, I made but one gulp of it.”<a name="anc_xviii_79" id="anc_xviii_79"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_79"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_79]</span></a></p> - -<p>At Rome, this aliment was prepared in twenty different manners; they -pickled it,<a name="anc_xviii_80" id="anc_xviii_80"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_80"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_80]</span></a> cooked it in water, on hot ashes, on charcoal, and -in the fryingpan. Eggs eaten in the shell, however, were thought the -most wholesome.<a name="anc_xviii_81" id="anc_xviii_81"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_81"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_81]</span></a></p> - -<p><i>Eggs à la Romaine.</i>—Cook some eggs; cut them, and throw over a -seasoning composed in the following manner. Bruise some pepper, -alisander, coriander, and rue, to which add garum, honey, and a little -oil.<a name="anc_xviii_82" id="anc_xviii_82"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_82"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_82]</span></a></p> - -<p><i>Hard Eggs à l’Athénienne.</i>—Cut each egg in four, and sprinkle over -garum, oil, and wine.<a name="anc_xviii_83" id="anc_xviii_83"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_83"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_83]</span></a></p> - -<p><i>Fried Eggs à l’Epænète.</i>—Fry some eggs; place them in a dish, and -season with a mixture of pepper, alisander, pine nuts, garum, benzoin, -and pepper.<a name="anc_xviii_84" id="anc_xviii_84"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_84"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_84]</span></a></p> - -<p><i>Egyptian Egg Pudding.</i>—Take the yolks of a good number of hard eggs; -reduce them to a paste with crushed pine nuts, an onion, a leek, some -gravy, and pepper; add a little wine and garum. Stuff an intestine with -this pulp, and cook.<a name="anc_xviii_85" id="anc_xviii_85"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_85"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_85]</span></a></p> - -<p><i>Dish of Eggs à la Macédonienne.</i>—Put in a mortar some pepper, mint, -parsley, pennyroyal, cheese, and pine nuts; when this is well crushed, -add honey, vinegar, fresh water, and garum; then a large number of yolks -of eggs; mix well with the rest; throw the whole into a saucepan; add -bread soaked in vinegar and water,—which, however, must be well -squeezed out—with fresh cow’s-milk cheese, cucumbers, almonds, chopped -onions, fowls’ livers, and garum.<a name="anc_xviii_86" id="anc_xviii_86"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_86"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_86]</span></a></p> - -<p><i>Lesbian Eggs aux Roses.</i>—Pluck the leaves of some roses; take only the -whitest part, and put them into a mortar with garum. Stir a long time; -add half a small glass of gravy; stir and strain; put into this liquor -the brains of four fowls and eight scruples of ground pepper; stir a -long time; add to it eight eggs, half a small glass of wine,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_178" id="page_178"></a>{178}</span> and as -much cooked wine, and, lastly, a little oil. Grease well the inside of a -dish, pour the whole into it, and place it over a very slow charcoal -fire. Cook, sprinkle with pepper, and serve.<a name="anc_xviii_87" id="anc_xviii_87"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_87"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_87]</span></a></p> - -<p>It was a custom, common to every agricultural population throughout -Europe and Asia, to celebrate the new year by eating eggs; and they -formed a part of the presents made on that day. Care was taken to dye -them different colours, particularly red—the favourite colour of the -ancients, and of the Celts in particular.<a name="anc_xviii_88" id="anc_xviii_88"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_88"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_88]</span></a></p> - -<p>It appears that, formerly, people consumed an astonishing number of eggs -in England on Easter Sunday. We find the following article in an account -of expenses for the king’s household (Edward I.) on the occasion of this -festival:—</p> - -<p>“For four hundred and a half of eggs, eighteen pence.”<a name="anc_xviii_89" id="anc_xviii_89"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_89"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_89]</span></a> At that -epoch eggs were not so dear in England as they are now; nor did kings -fail to eat more of them.</p> - -<p>In 1533, a bishop of Paris, authorised by a bull from the Pope, Julius -III., being disposed to permit the use of eggs during Lent, the -parliament took offence, and prevented the execution of the episcopal -mandate. It is this severe abstinence from eggs during Lent which gave -rise to the custom of having a great number of them blessed on Easter -eve, to be distributed among friends on Easter Sunday; whence comes the -expression, “to give Easter eggs.” Pyramids of them were carried into -the king’s cabinet after the high mass. They were gilded, or admirably -painted, and the prince made presents of them to his -courtiers.<a name="anc_xviii_90" id="anc_xviii_90"></a><a href="#footnote-xviii_90"><span class="fnanchor">[XVIII_90]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_179" id="page_179"></a>{179}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="XIX" id="XIX"></a>XIX.<br /><br /> -HUNTING.</h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">From</span> the first ages of the world man has passionately loved the exercise -of hunting; the dangers he then encountered inflamed his courage. It was -glorious to struggle with the terrible inhabitants of the forest or the -desert; to conquer them; to bring home their bleeding spoils; to furnish -an heroic name for the songs of poets, and the admiration of posterity.</p> - -<p>The sacred writings have handed down to us the name of the first mighty -hunter before the Lord;<a name="anc_xix_1" id="anc_xix_1"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_1"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_1]</span></a> they inform us that Ishmael, in the -solitude of Arabia, became skilful in drawing the bow;<a name="anc_xix_2" id="anc_xix_2"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_2"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_2]</span></a> and that -David, when yet young, dared to fight with lions and bears.<a name="anc_xix_3" id="anc_xix_3"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_3"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_3]</span></a></p> - -<p>Fable, that veiled light of truth, through which it sometimes glimmers, -caused Hercules to be ranked with the gods when he had overthrown the -lion of Nemæa, the hydra of Lerna, and the wild boar of -Erymanthus.<a name="anc_xix_4" id="anc_xix_4"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_4"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_4]</span></a></p> - -<p>Diana descended to the earth, and pursued in the forests the timid -stag.<a name="anc_xix_5" id="anc_xix_5"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_5"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_5]</span></a> The Greeks raised altars to her, and the centaur Chiron -learned of her the noble art of venery, which he, in his turn, taught to -illustrious disciples, among whom are mentioned Æsculapius, Nestor, -Theseus, Ulysses, and Achilles.<a name="anc_xix_6" id="anc_xix_6"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_6"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_6]</span></a></p> - -<p>Pollux trained the first hunting dogs, and Castor accustomed horses to -follow the track of wild beasts.<a name="anc_xix_7" id="anc_xix_7"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_7"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_7]</span></a> From that time, heroes, when -resting from real conquests, sought diversion in games nearly as -formidable, and imitative of their combats, which often placed their -lives in danger. Ulysses, for example, always bore the scar of a wound -inflicted by a wild boar.<a name="anc_xix_8" id="anc_xix_8"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_8"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_8]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_180" id="page_180"></a>{180}</span></p> - -<p>The most grave philosophers, and the most illustrious poets have -bestowed praises on the chase.</p> - -<p>Aristotle advised young men to apply themselves to it early.<a name="anc_xix_9" id="anc_xix_9"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_9"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_9]</span></a> -Plato finds in it something divine,<a name="anc_xix_10" id="anc_xix_10"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_10"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_10]</span></a> Horace looks upon it as -healthful exercise, strengthening to the body, and preparing the way for -glory;<a name="anc_xix_11" id="anc_xix_11"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_11"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_11]</span></a> and indeed, this heroic and royal exercise<a name="anc_xix_12" id="anc_xix_12"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_12"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_12]</span></a> always -possessed irresistible attraction for the greatest men of antiquity.</p> - -<p>The warriors of Homer,<a name="anc_xix_13" id="anc_xix_13"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_13"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_13]</span></a> Pelopidas,<a name="anc_xix_14" id="anc_xix_14"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_14"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_14]</span></a> Alexander of -Macedon,<a name="anc_xix_15" id="anc_xix_15"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_15"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_15]</span></a> Philopœmen,<a name="anc_xix_16" id="anc_xix_16"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_16"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_16]</span></a> seemed to derive from it fresh -warlike ardour.</p> - -<p>The ancients hunted in the open country, in forests, and in parks. -Mounted on fiery steeds, armed with javelins and long cutlasses, or with -swords and lances,<a name="anc_xix_17" id="anc_xix_17"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_17"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_17]</span></a> they excited their indefatigable hounds, and -promised to consecrate to Diana the stag’s horns, or the tusks of the -boar,<a name="anc_xix_18" id="anc_xix_18"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_18"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_18]</span></a> which might become their prey.</p> - -<p>The Greeks and Romans reared hunting dogs with extreme care, and they -began to make use of them from the age of eight or ten months.<a name="anc_xix_19" id="anc_xix_19"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_19"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_19]</span></a> -These animals had names, short, sonorous, and easy to be pronounced, -such as Lance, Flower, Blade, Strength, Ardent, &c.<a name="anc_xix_20" id="anc_xix_20"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_20"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_20]</span></a></p> - -<p>The strongest and most courageous came from England and -Scotland;<a name="anc_xix_21" id="anc_xix_21"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_21"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_21]</span></a> Crete, Tuscany, and Umbria were the nurseries of the -most expert.<a name="anc_xix_22" id="anc_xix_22"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_22"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_22]</span></a> The Gallic dogs surpassed all others by their -agility and astonishing swiftness.<a name="anc_xix_23" id="anc_xix_23"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_23"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_23]</span></a></p> - -<p>Females were generally preferred to the males,<a name="anc_xix_24" id="anc_xix_24"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_24"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_24]</span></a> either because -they were more docile, or pursued the game with more ardour and -persistence. It may be as well to remark, too, in this place, that the -Greeks thought much more of mares than of horses for chariot -racing.<a name="anc_xix_25" id="anc_xix_25"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_25"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_25]</span></a></p> - -<p>The dogs were always chained. Their liberty was only given them at the -moment of starting for the chase.<a name="anc_xix_26" id="anc_xix_26"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_26"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_26]</span></a> Their fire and ferocity were -then incredible. They dashed off with fury, and when they succeeded in -coming up with their prey, some would suffer their legs to be cut off -rather than loose their hold. The Indian dogs, trained for lion hunting, -often gave this proof of obstinate and implacable rage.<a name="anc_xix_27" id="anc_xix_27"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_27"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_27]</span></a></p> - -<p>The ancients also took game by means of pits covered over with -brushwood, in snares,<a name="anc_xix_28" id="anc_xix_28"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_28"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_28]</span></a> with traps,<a name="anc_xix_29" id="anc_xix_29"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_29"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_29]</span></a> and with nets;<a name="anc_xix_30" id="anc_xix_30"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_30"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_30]</span></a> -moreover, they often made use of bows and arrows, and understood the art -of training falcons and hawks.<a name="anc_xix_31" id="anc_xix_31"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_31"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_31]</span></a></p> - -<p>Eastern princes amused themselves by hunting in parks where a great -number of wild beasts were kept.<a name="anc_xix_32" id="anc_xix_32"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_32"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_32]</span></a> The Romans had too much<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_181" id="page_181"></a>{181}</span> taste -and money, and too great a desire to spend it, not to imitate this -expensive and royal luxury. Fulvius Hirpinus possessed a park of forty -acres near Viterbo, in Tuscany. Lucius Lucullus, and Quintus Hortensius -hastened to create more beautiful ones, and they did not fail to have a -host of imitators.<a name="anc_xix_33" id="anc_xix_33"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_33"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_33]</span></a></p> - -<p>By the Roman law, hunting was unrestricted:<a name="anc_xix_34" id="anc_xix_34"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_34"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_34]</span></a> only, no person -could pursue game on another’s land without the owner’s -permission.<a name="anc_xix_35" id="anc_xix_35"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_35"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_35]</span></a></p> - -<p>Besides the pleasure which this amusement afforded, the ancients, like -ourselves, discovered profit in it; and the produce of their chase -became one of the finest ornaments of their feasts. Isaac ordered his -son Esau to go out with his weapons, his quiver and bow, and to prepare -for him savoury meat, such as he loved (venison).<a name="anc_xix_36" id="anc_xix_36"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_36"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_36]</span></a> Solomon had -stags, roebucks, and wild oxen served on his table every day.<a name="anc_xix_37" id="anc_xix_37"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_37"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_37]</span></a></p> - -<p>Cyrus, King of Persia, ordered that venison should never be wanting at -his repasts.<a name="anc_xix_38" id="anc_xix_38"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_38"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_38]</span></a> Is it necessary to add that it was the delight of -two nations the most gastronomic in the world?—of the effeminate -Greeks, and more especially those Romans for whom the animals of the -earth, ocean, and air were only to be valued in proportion to the -impossibility of obtaining them in Europe, Asia, and Africa; an immense -inheritance, conquered by noble ancestors, and which their degenerated -sons ransacked for their satisfaction and insatiable gluttony.<a name="anc_xix_39" id="anc_xix_39"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_39"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_39]</span></a></p> - -<p>The English have always loved hunting—the favourite pastime of their -kings.</p> - -<p>Alfred the Great was not twelve years old when he had acquired the -reputation of being a skilful and indefatigable hunter.<a name="anc_xix_40" id="anc_xix_40"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_40"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_40]</span></a></p> - -<p>The noble and the wealthy differed from the serfs by their singular -taste for this royal diversion; and, in their pursuit of it, they spared -neither pains nor expense in procuring those famous dogs of pure race -which the ancient Greeks and Romans prized so highly. When Athelstan, -Alfred’s grandson, had subdued Constantine King of Wales, he imposed an -annual tribute. The vanquished monarch had to give him gold, silver, -cattle, and, which is remarkable, a certain number of hawks, and dogs -possessing a quick scent, and capable of unkenneling wild -beasts.<a name="anc_xix_41" id="anc_xix_41"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_41"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_41]</span></a> Edgar, the successor of Athelstan, changed the tribute -of money into an annual tribute of three hundred wolves’ skins.<a name="anc_xix_42" id="anc_xix_42"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_42"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_42]</span></a></p> - -<p>Notwithstanding his great piety, and the extreme reserve of his habits, -Edward the Confessor took great delight in following the hounds, and -exciting their ardour by his cries.<a name="anc_xix_43" id="anc_xix_43"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_43"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_43]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_182" id="page_182"></a>{182}</span></p> - -<p>King Harold never appeared anywhere without his favourite hawk on his -hand; neither was the approach of the British Nimrod announced otherwise -than by the joyous barking of the royal pack.<a name="anc_xix_44" id="anc_xix_44"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_44"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_44]</span></a> Indeed, at that -epoch, every person of distinction took the prince as his model, and -gave himself up, heart and soul, to what people are pleased to call “the -noble exercise of hunting.”</p> - -<p>This aristocratic taste became so extremely prevalent under the -domination of the Norman kings, that a writer of the twelfth century has -judged it with great severity. “In our time,” he says, “hunting is -considered as the most honourable occupation, the most excellent virtue. -Our nobility show more solicitude, sacrifice more money, and make a -greater parade in favour of it, than they would if the question were -war. They are more furious in the pursuit of wild beasts, than they -would be if they had to conquer the enemies of Great Britain. As a -necessary consequence, they no longer retain any sentiment of humanity; -they have descended almost to the level of the savage animals they are -in the daily habit of tracking and unkenneling.”<a name="anc_xix_45" id="anc_xix_45"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_45"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_45]</span></a></p> - -<p>These uncomplimentary observations of John of Salisbury did not prevent -James I. from pursuing the cherished diversion of his predecessors. That -prince being one day at the hunt in the environs of Bury St. Edmunds, -remarked, among the persons composing his suite, an opulent citizen -magnificently dressed, whose rich costume eclipsed that of the lords the -most renowned at court for the elegance of their attire. The king asked -who the hunter was. Some one replied that it was Lamb. “Lamb, say you?” -rejoined the king, laughing; “I don’t know what sort of a lamb that may -be; but what I know well is, that he has got a superb fleece on his -back.”<a name="anc_xix_46" id="anc_xix_46"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_46"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_46]</span></a></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>THE STAG.</h3> - -<p>Roman ladies of the highest distinction, arrived at that age when, in -making an estimate of life, it is found that the largest portion belongs -to the past—these ladies, we say, failed not to have the flesh of this -animal served on their tables, and to eat as much of it as possible. -Perchance it had but a slight attraction for the worthy matrons, and yet -they preferred it to every other, for this reason, that the stag being -free from<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_183" id="page_183"></a>{183}</span> maladies and infirmities—at least so it was -thought—prolongs its existence far beyond the bounds which nature has -assigned to other beings.<a name="anc_xix_47" id="anc_xix_47"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_47"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_47]</span></a> The noble patrician ladies would not -have been sorry to survive their great-grandchildren, and they took the -means which appeared to them most likely to ensure longevity.<a name="anc_xix_48" id="anc_xix_48"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_48"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_48]</span></a></p> - -<p>If the celebrated Galen had lived in their time, he would have told -those credulous Roman ladies, that this kind of food could not fail to -be hurtful to them; that this indigestible and heating meat is more -likely to provoke disease than to destroy its germ; and that, -consequently, death finds in it an auxiliary rather than an -enemy.<a name="anc_xix_49" id="anc_xix_49"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_49"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_49]</span></a></p> - -<p>True, the oracle of Pergama wrote nearly all this a century later, and -yet his medical authority was powerless to persuade, although it may -have convinced the obstinate epicureans of his period.</p> - -<p>In point of fact, whatever Galen may say, what dreadful accidents can a -piece of stag properly cooked produce? Moses, so attentive to the health -of his people, allows them the use of it;<a name="anc_xix_50" id="anc_xix_50"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_50"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_50]</span></a> Solomon, the wisest of -men, ate it every day.<a name="anc_xix_51" id="anc_xix_51"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_51"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_51]</span></a> Do we find that the Jewish monarch and -his people were any the worse for preferring this food?</p> - -<p>At Athens, at Rome, and in all Italy, whoever possessed the intelligence -of appreciating good cheer, took care to offer to his friends the -shoulder or fillet of stag.<a name="anc_xix_52" id="anc_xix_52"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_52"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_52]</span></a> Nevertheless, gastronomists by -profession, who so generously devoted their fortunes to the service of -the culinary art, abandoned the whole animal to their slaves, and only -reserved for themselves the most tender shoots of the horns. These were -for a long time boiled, then cut into very small pieces, and this -strange dish, seasoned with a mixture of pepper, cummin, savory, rue, -parsley, bay leaves, fat, and pine nuts, sprinkled with vinegar, and -fried, passed for an exquisite and dainty treat, worthy of the most -flattering praises.<a name="anc_xix_53" id="anc_xix_53"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_53"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_53]</span></a></p> - -<p><i>Quarter of Stag, roast à la Neméenne.</i>—Put into a saucepan pepper, -alisander, carrots, wild marjoram, parsley seed, benzoin root, and -fennel seed; add garum, wine, cooked wine, and a little oil. Boil over a -slow fire, thicken with fine flour, pour on the roast stag, and -serve.<a name="anc_xix_54" id="anc_xix_54"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_54"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_54]</span></a></p> - -<p><i>Shoulder of Stag à l’Hortensius.</i>—Cook in a saucepan carrots, -alisander, with pepper and parsley seed. Add honey, garum, vinegar, and -luke-warm oil; thicken with fine flour, and pour this sauce on the -shoulder of stag when roasted.<a name="anc_xix_55" id="anc_xix_55"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_55"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_55]</span></a></p> - -<p><i>Fillet of Stag à la Persane.</i>—Roast it, and at the moment of placing -it on the table, cover it with a seasoning of pepper, alisander,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_184" id="page_184"></a>{184}</span> -scallions, wild marjoram, onions, and pine nuts, previously mixed with -honey, garum, mustard, vinegar, and oil.<a name="anc_xix_56" id="anc_xix_56"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_56"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_56]</span></a></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>THE ROEBUCK.</h3> - -<p>The flesh of the roebuck, according to Galen, has none of the bad -qualities which he attributes to that of the stag.<a name="anc_xix_57" id="anc_xix_57"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_57"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_57]</span></a> Esculapius -and Comus for this once agreed—which very seldom happened—in praising -the beneficial properties and the delicious odour of these timid -quadrupeds.</p> - -<p>The Greeks thought much of the roebuck; they obtained the best from the -island of Melos,<a name="anc_xix_58" id="anc_xix_58"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_58"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_58]</span></a> and served them at their most sumptuous -repasts.<a name="anc_xix_59" id="anc_xix_59"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_59"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_59]</span></a> They were, perhaps, more rarely seen on Roman tables.</p> - -<p><i>Roebuck with Spikenard.</i>—Pound, in a mortar, pepper, parsley seed, dry -onion, and green rue; add spikenard, and then honey, vinegar, garum, -dates, cooked wine, and oil; mix well the whole, and cover the roast -with it.<a name="anc_xix_60" id="anc_xix_60"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_60"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_60]</span></a></p> - -<p><i>Roebuck aux Prunes.</i>—Mix pepper, alisander, and parsley, after having -pounded them. Add to this a good quantity of Damascus plums, which you -have soaked in hot water. Then add honey, wine, vinegar, garum, and a -little oil; and, lastly, leeks and savory. Serve the roebuck with this -sauce.<a name="anc_xix_61" id="anc_xix_61"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_61"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_61]</span></a></p> - -<p><i>Roebuck aux Amandes de Pin.</i>—Bruise pepper, alisander, parsley, and -cummin; mix with it a great quantity of fried pine nuts; and add honey, -vinegar, wine, a little oil, and garum. Pour it over the -roebuck.<a name="anc_xix_62" id="anc_xix_62"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_62"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_62]</span></a></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>THE DEER.</h3> - -<p>Little need be said with regard to this charming animal, whose slender -and graceful form was the admiration of those who visited the parks of -Lucullus and Hirpinus. Its flesh was thought to be less wholesome than -that of the roebuck, because it was found to be less<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_185" id="page_185"></a>{185}</span> succulent.<a name="anc_xix_63" id="anc_xix_63"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_63"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_63]</span></a> -Apicius has consecrated to it four culinary recipes, all very similar.</p> - -<p><i>Deer à la Marcellus.</i>—Put into a saucepan pepper, gravy, rue, and -onions; add honey, garum, cooked wine, and a little oil. Boil very -slowly, thicken with flour, and pour the whole on the deer when -roasted.<a name="anc_xix_64" id="anc_xix_64"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_64"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_64]</span></a></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>THE WILD BOAR.</h3> - -<p>It was in the year 63 before the Christian era: the consul Marcus -Tullius Cicero had just accused and convicted Catilina, and Rome, free -from present danger, had forgotten all transitory solicitudes of the -past to welcome joyous banquetings.</p> - -<p>A worthy citizen, excellent patriot, distinguished gastronomist, and -possessor of an immense fortune, of which he made the best use (at least -so said several choice epicures, his habitual guests), Survilius -Rullus—such was his name—thought of celebrating by an extraordinary -banquet the triumph of the illustrious consul, and the deliverance of -the country. His cook, a young Sicilian slave of the greatest promise, -and whose mode of cooking a dish of sows’ paps procured him one day a -smile of approbation from Lucullus, succeeded especially in those -eminent performances which command the admiration of the guests, and -give new strength to their exhausted appetites.</p> - -<p>Rullus sent for him, and spoke thus: “Recollect that in three days -Cicero will sup here: let the feast be worthy of him who gives it.”</p> - -<p>The Sicilian even surpassed himself. As soon as the guests had tasted -the enticing delicacies of the first course, the hall echoed with an -unanimous concert of applause, and the proud Amphitryon, intoxicated -with joy, was going to ask that a crown might be presented to his -beloved slave,<a name="anc_xix_65" id="anc_xix_65"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_65"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_65]</span></a> when the cook appeared, followed by four -Ethiopians, who gracefully carried a silver vase of prodigious -dimensions, in the shape of a large mortar. This extraordinary dish -contained a wild boar; baskets of dates were suspended to his tusks, and -charming little wild boars, in exquisite pastry, no doubt—for never was -there a more tempting culinary exhalation—artistically surrounded the -enormous animal.<a name="anc_xix_66" id="anc_xix_66"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_66"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_66]</span></a> Every voice was hushed; the guests waited in -silence the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_186" id="page_186"></a>{186}</span> most profound.<a name="anc_xix_67" id="anc_xix_67"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_67"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_67]</span></a> The tables of the second service -were placed round the guests, who raised themselves on the couches with -greedy curiosity. The blacks deposited the precious burden before -another domestic, a skilful carver, who opened the wild boar with -incredible dexterity and precision, and presented to the astonished eyes -of Rullus and his friends a second entire animal, and in this a third; -then came fresh delicacies, all gradually diminishing in size, until, at -length, a delicious little figpecker terminated this series of strange -viands, of which Rome, wondering and astonished, long preserved the -gastronomic remembrance.<a name="anc_xix_68" id="anc_xix_68"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_68"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_68]</span></a></p> - -<p>Man seldom prescribes to himself reasonable limits in the vast field of -vanity and ostentation. At first it was thought an enviable boldness to -have dared to serve an entire boar of a large size. Every one did the -same thing, and at length it became quite common. It was necessary then -to do better. One thought of having three at the same time; another had -four; and soon the extravagant—and they were not few—caused eight wild -boars <i>à la Troyenne</i> to appear at a single repast.<a name="anc_xix_69" id="anc_xix_69"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_69"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_69]</span></a> The -Macedonian, Caranus, a man of spirit and of merit, placed himself at -once on an eminence which baffled rivalry. He invited twenty guests to -his wedding, and he had twenty wild boars served.<a name="anc_xix_70" id="anc_xix_70"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_70"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_70]</span></a></p> - -<p>It must be confessed that such magnificence rather resembles folly; but, -alas! has not every nation its failings? Besides, the flesh of the wild -boar enjoyed an astonishing reputation in Rome and Greece,<a name="anc_xix_71" id="anc_xix_71"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_71"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_71]</span></a> and -no one could, with credit to himself, receive his friends at his table -without presenting them with the fashionable dish,—the animal appointed -by nature to appear at banquets.<a name="anc_xix_72" id="anc_xix_72"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_72"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_72]</span></a></p> - -<p>At length, however, they began to tire of this enormous dish; they -divided it into three portions, and the middle piece obtained the -preference.<a name="anc_xix_73" id="anc_xix_73"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_73"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_73]</span></a> Ultimately they served only the fillet and head; the -latter of which was more particularly esteemed by the Romans.<a name="anc_xix_74" id="anc_xix_74"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_74"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_74]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Greeks tried their appetites by tasting the liver, which was served -at the first course.<a name="anc_xix_75" id="anc_xix_75"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_75"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_75]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Romans sought to deprive the wild boar of its terrible ferocity; -they raised them on their farms,<a name="anc_xix_76" id="anc_xix_76"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_76"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_76]</span></a> and sometimes they acquired -enormous proportions. These immense beasts weighed no less than a -thousand pounds.<a name="anc_xix_77" id="anc_xix_77"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_77"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_77]</span></a> But delicate connoisseurs had always the wisdom -to prefer the dangerous inhabitant of the forest to these bloated -victims of enervating domesticity,<a name="anc_xix_78" id="anc_xix_78"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_78"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_78]</span></a> whose insipid and degenerate -flavour hardly betrayed their origin.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_187" id="page_187"></a>{187}</span></p> - -<p>The wild boar was generally served surrounded by pyramids of fruits and -lettuces.<a name="anc_xix_79" id="anc_xix_79"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_79"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_79]</span></a></p> - -<p><i>Wild Boar à la Pompée.</i>—Clean and salt a wild boar, cover it with -cummin; let it remain in salt during twenty-four hours; then roast it; -sprinkle with pepper, and serve with a seasoning of honey, garum, sweet -and cooked wine.<a name="anc_xix_80" id="anc_xix_80"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_80"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_80]</span></a></p> - -<p><i>Quarter of Wild Boar à la Thébaine.</i>—Cook it in sea water with bay -leaves. When very tender take off the skin, and serve with salt, -mustard, and vinegar.<a name="anc_xix_81" id="anc_xix_81"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_81"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_81]</span></a></p> - -<p><i>Fillet of Wild Boar à la Macédonienne.</i>—Pound pepper, alisander, wild -marjoram, skinned myrtle leaves, coriander, and onions; add honey, wine, -garum, and a little oil. This seasoning must be submitted to a gentle -fire; thicken with flour, and pour the whole over the wild boar as you -draw it from the oven.<a name="anc_xix_82" id="anc_xix_82"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_82"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_82]</span></a></p> - -<p><i>Wild Boar’s Liver à la Grecque.</i>—Fry it, and serve with a seasoning of -pepper, cummin, parsley seed, mint, thyme, savory, and roasted pine -nuts; to which add honey, wine, garum, vinegar, and a little -oil.<a name="anc_xix_83" id="anc_xix_83"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_83"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_83]</span></a></p> - -<p><i>Wild Boar’s Head à la Cantabre.</i>—Make the seasoning in the following -manner: mix well, pepper, alisander, parsley seed, mint, thyme, and -roasted pine nuts; add wine, vinegar, garum, and a little oil; -afterwards onions and rue; thicken with whites of eggs; boil over a slow -fire, and stir gently.<a name="anc_xix_84" id="anc_xix_84"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_84"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_84]</span></a></p> - -<p><i>Green Ham of Wild Boar à la Gauloise.</i>—Insert a long and narrow blade -at the joint, and carefully separate the skin from the flesh, so that -the latter may be well covered with the following seasoning: pound -pepper, bay leaves, rue, and benzoin; add to it some excellent gravy, -cooked wine, and a little oil. Fill the ham, close the opening, and then -cook it in sea water, with some tender shoots of laurel and -dill.<a name="anc_xix_85" id="anc_xix_85"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_85"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_85]</span></a></p> - -<p>Under the Norman kings the wild boar’s head was considered a noble dish, -worthy of the sovereign’s table. This, we are told, was brought to the -king’s table with the trumpeters sounding their trumpets before it in -procession. “For,” says Holinshed, “upon the day of coronation (of young -Henry), King Henry II., his father, served him at table as sewer, -bringing up the bore’s head with trumpetes afore it, according to the -ancient manner.”—<span class="smcap">Strutt</span>, “<i>Manners and Customs</i>,” Vol ii., p. 19.</p> - -<p>“A very small consumption is made of the old wild boar; the flesh is -hard, dry, and heavy; the head only is good. The young wild boar is a -fine and delicate game, also, when a year old. The ancients submitted<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_188" id="page_188"></a>{188}</span> -those they could take away from their mother to castration, and left -them afterwards to run about the woods, where these animals became -larger than the others, and acquired a savour and flavour which made -them preferable to the pigs we rear.”—<span class="smcap">Sonnini.</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>THE HARE.</h3> - -<p>Plutarch contends that the Jews abstained from eating the hare, not -because they thought it unclean, but because it resembled the ass, which -they revered.<a name="anc_xix_86" id="anc_xix_86"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_86"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_86]</span></a> This is only a pleasantry on the part of the -celebrated writer, with no other foundation than the fabulous tale of -the grammarian Apion, who asserts in his book against the Jews that they -preserved in Jerusalem an ass’s head, which they adored.<a name="anc_xix_87" id="anc_xix_87"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_87"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_87]</span></a> We know -that a sanitary motive was the cause of this animal being interdicted to -the Israelites;<a name="anc_xix_88" id="anc_xix_88"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_88"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_88]</span></a> and it has been also remarked that the ancient -Britons abstained from it.<a name="anc_xix_89" id="anc_xix_89"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_89"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_89]</span></a></p> - -<p>This mammifer, everywhere very common, swarmed in the East, if we are to -believe Xenophon, who saw a great number of them when marching with his -troops to join young Cyrus.<a name="anc_xix_90" id="anc_xix_90"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_90"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_90]</span></a> Greece was abundantly stocked with -them:<a name="anc_xix_91" id="anc_xix_91"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_91"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_91]</span></a> the inhabitants of islands of the Ægean sea had more than -once to deplore the ravages which hunger caused these timid animals to -commit, and whose fecundity they cursed.</p> - -<p>Hegesander relates that, under the reign of Antigonus, an inhabitant of -the island of Anaphe brought two hares into the neighbourhood. Their -posterity became so numerous that the people were obliged to implore the -gods to preserve the harvest, and to annihilate their formidable -enemies. As the immortals turned a deaf ear to these complaints, -recourse was had to Apollo alone, and the Pythonissa deigned to return -this oracle: “Train hunting dogs, and they will exterminate the -hares.”<a name="anc_xix_92" id="anc_xix_92"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_92"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_92]</span></a> The advice was good, and deemed worthy of being adopted.</p> - -<p>The Greeks esteemed highly the flesh of this quadruped, which was served -roasted, but almost bleeding,<a name="anc_xix_93" id="anc_xix_93"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_93"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_93]</span></a> or made into delicious -pies,<a name="anc_xix_94" id="anc_xix_94"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_94"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_94]</span></a> much in vogue in the time of Aristophanes.<a name="anc_xix_95" id="anc_xix_95"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_95"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_95]</span></a> -Hippocrates had, however, forbidden the use of it. “The hare,” said he, -“thickens the blood, and causes cruel wakefulness;”<a name="anc_xix_96" id="anc_xix_96"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_96"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_96]</span></a> but -epicurism will always think lightly of Hygeian<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_189" id="page_189"></a>{189}</span> precepts which do not -accord with its own ideas. At all events, Galen was not of the same -opinion as his colleague,<a name="anc_xix_97" id="anc_xix_97"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_97"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_97]</span></a> and Galen must be right.</p> - -<p>The Emperor Alexander Severus eat a hare at each of his repasts.<a name="anc_xix_98" id="anc_xix_98"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_98"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_98]</span></a> -Perhaps that prince shared the opinion of the Romans, who thought that a -person who fed on hare for seven consectutive days became fresher, -fatter, and more beautiful. A lady, named Gellia, had a large share of -that unfortunate gift of nature which we call ugliness. She resolved to -make a trial of this regimen, and submitted to it with a regularity -really exemplary. She showed herself at the end of the week, and we are -informed that no one thought her any the prettier for it.<a name="anc_xix_99" id="anc_xix_99"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_99"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_99]</span></a></p> - -<p>The epicures of Rome contented themselves with eating the shoulder of -the hare, and left the remainder to less fastidious guests.<a name="anc_xix_100" id="anc_xix_100"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_100"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_100]</span></a></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>THE RABBIT.</h3> - -<p>“The conies are but feeble folks, yet make they their houses in the -rocks.”<a name="anc_xix_101" id="anc_xix_101"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_101"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_101]</span></a> They taught mankind, it is said, the art of -fortification, mining, and covered roads.<a name="anc_xix_102" id="anc_xix_102"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_102"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_102]</span></a> These skilful -engineers come originally from warm climates; from Africa, perhaps, -whence they were brought to Spain.</p> - -<p>They there became so numerous, and dug so well their holes beneath the -houses of Tarragona, that that city was completely overthrown, and the -greater part of the inhabitants buried beneath its ruins.<a name="anc_xix_103" id="anc_xix_103"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_103"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_103]</span></a></p> - -<p>Catullus calls Spain <i>Cuniculosa Celtiberia</i> (Celtiberian rabbit -warren); and two medals, struck in the reign of Adrian, represent that -peninsula under the form of a beautiful woman, clothed in a robe and -mantle, with a rabbit at her feet. This animal was called in Hebrew, -<i>Saphan</i>, of which the Phœnicians have made <i>Spania</i>, and the Latins -<i>Hispania</i>.<a name="anc_xix_104" id="anc_xix_104"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_104"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_104]</span></a></p> - -<p>Strabo relates that the inhabitants of the Balearic Islands, despairing -of being able to oppose the extraordinary propagation of rabbits, which -nearly rendered their country uninhabitable, sent ambassadors to Rome to -implore assistance against this new kind of enemy.<a name="anc_xix_105" id="anc_xix_105"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_105"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_105]</span></a> Augustus -furnished them with troops, and the Roman arms were once more -victorious.<a name="anc_xix_106" id="anc_xix_106"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_106"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_106]</span></a></p> - -<p>Aristotle says nothing of the rabbit, which, probably, was then little<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_190" id="page_190"></a>{190}</span> -known in Greece. It afterwards became common enough, and that of -Macedonia, in particular, found favour at tables renowned for -delicacies.<a name="anc_xix_107" id="anc_xix_107"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_107"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_107]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Romans, those bold innovators in cookery, so desirous of strange and -unheard of dishes, would only consent to eat rabbits on condition of -their being killed before they had left off sucking, or taken alive from -the slaughtered mother, to be immediately transferred to the ardent -stoves of their kitchens.<a name="anc_xix_108" id="anc_xix_108"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_108"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_108]</span></a> It was certainly reserved for that -people to frighten the world by all kinds of culinary anomalies.</p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>THE FOX.</h3> - -<p>A young fox, fattened on grapes, and roasted on the spit, is a tidbit -for a king during the autumn.<a name="anc_xix_109" id="anc_xix_109"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_109"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_109]</span></a> Such was the idea of the Roman -peasants; but we must be allowed, however, to differ from their opinion.</p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>THE HEDGEHOG.</h3> - -<p>The Greeks willingly eat the hedgehog<a name="anc_xix_110" id="anc_xix_110"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_110"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_110]</span></a> in a <i>ragoût</i>—a dish the -Romans never envied them.</p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>THE SQUIRREL.</h3> - -<p>This charming little animal, which ought never to please but when alive, -often appeared at Rome among the most elegant dishes of the -feast.<a name="anc_xix_111" id="anc_xix_111"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_111"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_111]</span></a> At first it was only eaten by caprice: unfortunately for -the little animal, it was found to be very nice.</p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>THE CAMEL.</h3> - -<p>Aristotle gives the greatest praise to the flesh of this useful animal, -and places it without hesitation above the most delicate -viands.<a name="anc_xix_112" id="anc_xix_112"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_112"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_112]</span></a> The<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_191" id="page_191"></a>{191}</span> Greeks, his countrymen, thought it worthy of being -roasted for the table of sovereigns,<a name="anc_xix_113" id="anc_xix_113"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_113"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_113]</span></a> and the inhabitants of -Persia and Egypt partook of the same enthusiasm. Rome thought the camel -fit for the solitude of the Desert, but not for the ornament of -banquets; and really, for this once, Rome appears to have been right.</p> - -<p>“The flesh of the young dromedary is as good as that of veal, and the -Arabs make of it their common food. They preserve it in vases, which -they cover with fat. They make butter and cheese with the milk of the -female.”—<span class="smcap">Desmarest.</span></p> - -<p>The ancients, in their wars, made use of dromedaries. The soldiers when -upon these animals formed a particular militia. In the Egyptian -expedition Bonaparte renewed this ancient custom, and that cavalry -caused a great deal of injury to the Bedouins and Arabs. Besides the -rider, each dromedary carried provisions and munitions of war.</p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>THE ELEPHANT.</h3> - -<p>Certain wandering tribes of Asia and Africa were thought formerly to be -very fond of grilled elephant.<a name="anc_xix_114" id="anc_xix_114"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_114"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_114]</span></a> The Egyptians went so far in -their pursuit of this delicacy, that the King Ptolemy Philadelphus was -forced to forbid them, under pain of the most severe laws, to kill one -of these animals, whose number diminished every day. The law was -disregarded, and the elephant only possessed greater attractions for -them.<a name="anc_xix_115" id="anc_xix_115"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_115"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_115]</span></a></p> - -<p>In our days, also, some semi-savage nations partake of the same taste. -Le Vaillant, a celebrated traveller, and a most distinguished -gastronomist, tells us that the first time he partook of an elephant’s -trunk, which was served him by the Hottentots, he resolved that it -should not be the last; for nothing appeared to him of a more exquisite -flavour.<a name="anc_xix_116" id="anc_xix_116"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_116"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_116]</span></a> But he reserves his greatest praises for the foot of -the colossal quadruped. We will let him speak for himself:—</p> - -<p>“They cut off the four feet of the animal, and made in the earth a hole -about three feet square. This was filled with live charcoal, and, -covering the whole with very dry wood, a large fire was kept up during -part of the night. When they thought that the hole was hot enough, it -was emptied: a Hottentot then placed within it the four<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_192" id="page_192"></a>{192}</span> feet of the -animal, covered them with hot ashes, and then with charcoal and small -wood; and this fire was left burning until the morning. * * * My -servants presented me at breakfast with an elephant’s foot. It had -considerably swelled in the cooking; I could hardly recognise the shape, -but it appeared so good, exhaled so inviting an odour, that I hastened -to taste it. It was a dish for a king. Although I had often heard the -bear’s foot praised, I could, not conceive how so heavy, so material an -animal as the elephant, could furnish a dish so fine and delicate. * * * -And I devoured, without bread, my elephant’s foot, while my Hottentots, -seated around me, regaled themselves with other parts, which they found -equally delicious.”<a name="anc_xix_117" id="anc_xix_117"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_117"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_117]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Romans never evinced fondness for the flesh of the elephant. This -animal, with its gigantic proportions and rare intelligence, was found -to be so amusing to the nation of kings, when dancing on the tight -rope,<a name="anc_xix_118" id="anc_xix_118"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_118"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_118]</span></a> or in the terrible combats of the Circus,<a name="anc_xix_119" id="anc_xix_119"></a><a href="#footnote-xix_119"><span class="fnanchor">[XIX_119]</span></a> that -they hardly thought of roasting it, or making it into <i>fricassees</i>. We -cannot, however, affirm that the gastronomic eccentricity of some Roman -epicure did not dream of a monstrous feast, in which he may have offered -to his guests an elephant <i>à la Troyenne</i> on a silver dish, made -purposely for the occasion.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_193" id="page_193"></a>{193}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="XX" id="XX"></a>XX.<br /><br /> -FEATHERED GAME.</h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">Moses</span> permitted his people to eat game, with the exception of birds of -prey and some other species whose flesh appeared to him hard and -unwholesome.<a name="anc_xx_1" id="anc_xx_1"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_1"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_1]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Egyptians piously offered to their priests the most delicate birds, -which they willingly accepted, and eat, in order not to weaken their -intelligence by the use of more simple and heavy food.<a name="anc_xx_2" id="anc_xx_2"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_2"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_2]</span></a></p> - -<p>Among the Greeks, at the commencement of the repast, little birds were -served roasted, on which was poured a boiling sauce, composed of scraped -cheese, oil, vinegar, and silphium.<a name="anc_xx_3" id="anc_xx_3"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_3"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_3]</span></a></p> - -<p>Feathered game appeared in Italy only at the second course. The Romans -were very partial to it, and many epicureans, possessing strange tastes, -found means to ruin themselves by eating pheasants and flamingoes.</p> - -<p>The celebrated comedian, Æsopus, whom Cicero thought worthy of being his -master in the art of declamation, had one day the fancy to regale -himself with a dish of birds, the whole of which, when living, had both -learned to sing and speak.<a name="anc_xx_4" id="anc_xx_4"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_4"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_4]</span></a> This gluttony of a new kind cost him -very dear, and the supper of the barbarian was not any the better for -it.</p> - -<p>Some modern nations—the French among others—formerly eat the heron, -crane, crow, stork, swan, cormorant, and bittern; the first three -especially were highly esteemed, and Taillevant, cook of Charles VII., -teaches us how to prepare these meagre, tough birds. Belon says that, in -spite of its revolting taste when unaccustomed to it, the bittern is, -however, among the delicious treats of the French.<a name="anc_xx_5" id="anc_xx_5"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_5"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_5]</span></a> This<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_194" id="page_194"></a>{194}</span> writer -asserts also that a falcon, or a vulture, either roasted or boiled, is -excellent eating; and that if one of these birds happened to kill itself -in flying after the game, the falconer instantly cooked it. Liebaut -calls the heron a royal viand!</p> - -<p>These same men who eat vultures, herons, and cormorants, did not touch -young game: they thought it indigestible; and, for instance, abstained -from leverets and partridges.</p> - -<p>The internal parts being the first to corrupt, the ancients carefully -drew the game they wished to preserve. That done, they filled the inside -with wheat or oats, and then placed it in the midst of a heap of flour -or grain, with the feathers or hair on.</p> - -<p>Thus protected from the contact of the air or insects, the game kept -remarkably well.</p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>THE PHEASANT.</h3> - -<p>The Argonauts discovered this magnificent bird on the shores of Phasis, -a celebrated river of Colchis, and introduced it into Greece, where it -was unknown.<a name="anc_xx_6" id="anc_xx_6"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_6"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_6]</span></a> This tradition, sung by the poets,<a name="anc_xx_7" id="anc_xx_7"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_7"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_7]</span></a> has only met -with one contradictor, Isidorus,<a name="anc_xx_8" id="anc_xx_8"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_8"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_8]</span></a> who pretends that the pheasant is -a native of an island of Greece, called Phasis.</p> - -<p>All nations soon hastened to receive it with the favour its rich plumage -and the exquisite delicacy of its flesh deserve. Carried in cages -composed of precious wood, it adorned the triumphal march of Ptolemy -Philadelphus, at his entry into Alexandria.<a name="anc_xx_9" id="anc_xx_9"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_9"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_9]</span></a> Ptolemy Evergetes, -successor to that prince, caused pheasants to be sent from Media, which -he destined for his aviary; and he never eat them, so much did he dread -the idea of diminishing their number.<a name="anc_xx_10" id="anc_xx_10"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_10"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_10]</span></a> But, alas! custom and time, -those jealous enemies of the greatest glories, eventually put an end to -that. The unfortunate creature was stripped of its feathers and roasted; -gluttony, an insatiable monster that never says “enough,” rejoiced at -being able to count it among the number of its conquests. The Greeks had -coops for pheasants as we have for fowls, not to please the eye, but to -ornament the table,<a name="anc_xx_11" id="anc_xx_11"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_11"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_11]</span></a> and a foolish prodigality caused a whole -pheasant to be served to each guest in those luxurious repasts which the -Athenians gave to display their pomp and ostentatious -hospitality.<a name="anc_xx_12" id="anc_xx_12"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_12"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_12]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_195" id="page_195"></a>{195}</span></p> - -<p>Among the Romans, Pliny is the first (or we are mistaken) who mentions -this bird, then very uncommon in Italy, since they went in quest of it -to the banks of the Phasis.<a name="anc_xx_13" id="anc_xx_13"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_13"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_13]</span></a> Its rarity did not prevent Vitellius -from having a <i>ragoût</i> of pheasants’ brains,<a name="anc_xx_14" id="anc_xx_14"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_14"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_14]</span></a> mixed with other -viands of an unheard-of delicacy, in the immense dish called by him “the -Shield of Minerva.”<a name="anc_xx_15" id="anc_xx_15"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_15"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_15]</span></a></p> - -<p>Pertinax willingly partook of pheasant, but on condition that they cost -his miserly sensuality nothing. Heliogabalus would only eat them three -times a week. Alexander Severus reserved them for solemn -occasions.<a name="anc_xx_16" id="anc_xx_16"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_16"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_16]</span></a> They were sacrificed each morning to the statue of -Caligula,<a name="anc_xx_17" id="anc_xx_17"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_17"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_17]</span></a> at the foot of which the vile troop of courtiers -prostrated themselves at the very time even when Cæsar, in a fit of -sanguinary monomania, wished that the Roman people had but one neck, -that he might sever it at a blow.<a name="anc_xx_18" id="anc_xx_18"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_18"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_18]</span></a></p> - -<p>It is especially from the commencement of the 14th century that the -pheasant, better appreciated in Europe, has resumed in banquets that -remarkable place,<a name="anc_xx_19" id="anc_xx_19"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_19"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_19]</span></a> constantly assigned to it throughout this new -era, in which our taste maintains it, and from which our posterity will -never remove it, if they inherit that wonderful sentiment of the good -and beautiful which so eminently distinguishes the epicures of the -present day.</p> - -<p>Let us add, for the comfort of weak stomachs, that the medical light of -Pergamo—the illustrious Galen—recommends them the use of the flesh of -pheasants;<a name="anc_xx_20" id="anc_xx_20"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_20"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_20]</span></a> that he prescribed it for himself, and found it a most -delightful remedy.</p> - -<p>“Mingrelia, or the antique Colchis, is the cradle of pheasants, that -species of birds being stronger and finer there than anywhere else, but -it is seen, however, all over Europe, in Africa, and Asia, even in the -cold countries of the north. This beautiful bird forms an article of -commerce with the Chinese, who sell them frozen in the market of -Kiakta.”—<span class="smcap">Sonnini.</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>THE PARTRIDGE.</h3> - -<p>The Greeks and Romans were acquainted with partridges, and eat -them.<a name="anc_xx_21" id="anc_xx_21"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_21"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_21]</span></a> The red, at first very rare in Italy, were, however, -advantageously replaced by the white, which true amateurs procured at a -great expense from the Alps.<a name="anc_xx_22" id="anc_xx_22"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_22"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_22]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_196" id="page_196"></a>{196}</span></p> - -<p>The Athenians were fond of seeing them fight, and raised them for this -cruel sport.<a name="anc_xx_23" id="anc_xx_23"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_23"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_23]</span></a> Alexander Severus also sought in these sanguinary -struggles relief from the cares of royalty.<a name="anc_xx_24" id="anc_xx_24"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_24"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_24]</span></a></p> - -<p>Aristippus, a more humane, perhaps a more luxurious, philosopher, gave -as much as fourteen shillings for a fine fat partridge,<a name="anc_xx_25" id="anc_xx_25"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_25"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_25]</span></a> which, -passing from the aviary to the kitchen, escaped the fatal vicissitudes -of a desperate combat.</p> - -<p>In Greece, people who knew how to enjoy life thought much of the leg of -this warlike bird.<a name="anc_xx_26" id="anc_xx_26"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_26"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_26]</span></a> It was fashionable not to touch any other -part. At Rome, when politeness was not of so much consequence, they -sometimes ventured on the breast. We, barbarians, eat the entire -partridge.</p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>THE QUAIL.</h3> - -<p>The dead may be raised by the means of a quail, said the ancients. Now -for the proof: Hercules having been killed in Lybia, Iolaüs took one of -these birds, which fortunately happened to be at hand, and placed it -beneath his friend’s nose. The hero no sooner smelt it than his eyes -opened to the light, and Acheron was forced to give up his prey.<a name="anc_xx_27" id="anc_xx_27"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_27"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_27]</span></a></p> - -<p>The learned Bochart denies this prodigy.<a name="anc_xx_28" id="anc_xx_28"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_28"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_28]</span></a> He affirms that Hercules -was subject to epileptic attacks, and that, during a fit, they caused -him to smell a quail, whose odour quickly cured him.<a name="anc_xx_29" id="anc_xx_29"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_29"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_29]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Phœnicians insisted that he was quite dead, and they all cried -out, “A miracle!”<a name="anc_xx_30" id="anc_xx_30"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_30"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_30]</span></a> The reader must decide between them and -Bochart.</p> - -<p>In the Desert the Israelites fed on quails;<a name="anc_xx_31" id="anc_xx_31"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_31"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_31]</span></a> and this food, -reserved for them by Divine goodness, caused no discomfort among the -fugitive tribes. The Greeks served them on their tables with -partridges:<a name="anc_xx_32" id="anc_xx_32"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_32"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_32]</span></a> they raised them in aviaries, and eat them all the -year round.<a name="anc_xx_33" id="anc_xx_33"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_33"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_33]</span></a> Aristotle speaks most highly of them, and does not -attribute to them any dangerous property.<a name="anc_xx_34" id="anc_xx_34"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_34"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_34]</span></a> However, quails were -banished from all Roman tables: they were no longer carefully -fattened:<a name="anc_xx_35" id="anc_xx_35"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_35"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_35]</span></a> they were cursed, and accused of causing epilepsy in -those who partook of their fatal and seductive flesh.<a name="anc_xx_36" id="anc_xx_36"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_36"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_36]</span></a> The -authority of Galen confirmed this strange prejudice,<a name="anc_xx_37" id="anc_xx_37"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_37"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_37]</span></a> and these -innocent birds, having lost all reputation in Italy, no<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_197" id="page_197"></a>{197}</span> doubt easily -consoled themselves for the happy ostracism which delivered them from a -too expensive glory.</p> - -<p>At all events, it is probable that Rome had wickedly calumniated quails; -two skilful men, devoted to the cause, undertook to defend them: they -were called Hippolochus and Antiphanus.<a name="anc_xx_38" id="anc_xx_38"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_38"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_38]</span></a> Their eloquent pleadings -caused a sensation; the epicureans were moved, and some of these birds -were recalled, fattened, and roasted.</p> - -<p>Quails, like cocks and partridges, seem born to fight to excess.<a name="anc_xx_39" id="anc_xx_39"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_39"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_39]</span></a> -The Grecians encouraged their warlike ardour, and threw them into the -arena, where they contemplated their furious attacks with as much -pleasure as they experienced at the sight of gladiators murdering each -other in order to amuse them.<a name="anc_xx_40" id="anc_xx_40"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_40"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_40]</span></a> Solon—the wise Solon—required -that young men should be trained to courage at the school of these bold -champions, and learn from them to despise danger, pain, and -death.<a name="anc_xx_41" id="anc_xx_41"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_41"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_41]</span></a> We know that sensibility was little thought of in the plan -of education formed by the great legislator. Long after him, however, -the Areopagus gave a dreadful proof of this, by condemning to death a -little boy who had amused himself by pulling out the eyes of all the -quails unfortunate enough to fall into his hands. This precocious -monster was too promising.<a name="anc_xx_42" id="anc_xx_42"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_42"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_42]</span></a></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>THE THRUSH.</h3> - -<p>The immortal author of the Iliad did not disdain, it is said, to compose -a poem in praise of thrushes. These verses were so beautiful that the -Greeks learned them all by heart in their infancy.<a name="anc_xx_43" id="anc_xx_43"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_43"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_43]</span></a> The singular -love of the ancients for this bird renders these poetical honours -tolerably probable. More than once Comus has borrowed the lyre of -Apollo.</p> - -<p>In Greece, children were not allowed to eat thrushes, because it was -feared that their delicious flesh might cause them to contract too early -habits of gluttony and effeminacy. Young girls received them as presents -from their betrothed on the day of their marriage.<a name="anc_xx_44" id="anc_xx_44"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_44"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_44]</span></a> They were -served at the most sumptuous feasts,<a name="anc_xx_45" id="anc_xx_45"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_45"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_45]</span></a> and Attica enriched with its -gold the bird-catchers of that Daphne,<a name="anc_xx_46" id="anc_xx_46"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_46"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_46]</span></a> so celebrated for her -luxury and scandalous voluptuousness.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_198" id="page_198"></a>{198}</span></p> - -<p>Rome inherited this gastronomic rage. One of Varro’s aunts reared -thrushes in the country, and sold 60,000 of them every year, to the -numerous epicures of the metropolis of the world. She derived an immense -revenue from this speculation.<a name="anc_xx_47" id="anc_xx_47"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_47"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_47]</span></a> Magnificent aviaries were soon -seen in all rich Roman villas; they were filled with thrushes; and the -multitude of these birds became such that they furnished a plentiful -manure for the land.<a name="anc_xx_48" id="anc_xx_48"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_48"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_48]</span></a> They were fed on crushed figs, mixed with -wheaten flour; they had also millet, add great care was taken to -preserve in the aviary a current of fresh and pure water to slake their -thirst.<a name="anc_xx_49" id="anc_xx_49"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_49"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_49]</span></a> On days of triumph and rejoicing, a dozen of these -tempting thrushes cost no less than twenty-seven shillings.<a name="anc_xx_50" id="anc_xx_50"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_50"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_50]</span></a></p> - -<p>On those solemn occasions more than one generous citizen, consulting his -prodigality more than his purse, ruined himself<a name="anc_xx_51" id="anc_xx_51"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_51"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_51]</span></a> for love of his -guests. More than one obsequious dependant spent his last sesterces in -composing ingenious crowns of thrushes,<a name="anc_xx_52" id="anc_xx_52"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_52"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_52]</span></a> which his haughty patrons -deigned to receive as a homage. It is true he was sometimes allowed to -become a spectator of the repast which his gift was to -embellish<a name="anc_xx_53" id="anc_xx_53"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_53"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_53]</span></a>—certainly a most flattering recompense for his -gratitude and servility!</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="c">DESCRIPTION OF <a href="#pl_IX">PLATE No. IX.</a></p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Varro’S Magnificent Aviary.</span>—Adjoining his villa was a part of the -house called the Ornithon, or the Aviary, of which some ruins are -still remaining, between the two small rivers Vinius and Casinus, -but can hardly be made out. More, perhaps, was in existence when -the famous architect and antiquarian, Pierre Ligorio, drew the plan -and profile more than 200 years ago. This drawing of Plate IX. is -conformable with Varro’s own description, who says that: “At the -entrance there are two porticoes, or two large cages (in the Plate -these are omitted for want of space); they are buildings with -colonnades all round, on the top and sides there are nettings -spread to prevent the escape of the birds. The entrance to the -yards is between the two pavilions; two basins, long and wide, are -alongside of the court-yard on the right and left of it; from them -you pass to the grand double colonnade, the first circumference of -which is of stone, and the second of pine; the distance from each -other is five feet, and the whole of this middle space is filled -with birds, which are prevented from escaping by small fillets all -over the top and sides. There are, between the columns, like a -small theatre, rails, like steps, put forward for the birds to -perch upon. There are birds of various species, particularly -singing birds, such as nightingales and blackbirds; a small canal -supplies them with fresh water, and they are fed from under the -netting. Facing the pedestals of the column is a stone, raised one -foot nine inches above the quay, and that is elevated two feet -above the level of the water; its width is five feet, to enable the -visitor to walk round. At the lower part of the quay, on the -water-side, there are holes practised where the ducks can retire. -In the centre of the large basin, about 200 feet in diameter, is a -small island, bordered by a small colonnade, under which Varro -treats his friends; in the middle, a round table, which a servant -turns on a pivot, so that in succession the guests are supplied -with dishes, plates, cups, and goblets. There is seen also an -hemisphere, where the star Lucifer turns in the day, and Hesperus -at night; both mark the hour, and are variable; on the same -hemisphere the winds, to the number of eight, are marked with a -hand that is always moving as the wind changes, the same as the -clock of Cyprestus, at Athena.”</p> - -<p>The drawing of this Aviary is beautiful. It appears that Pierre -Ligorio followed Varro’s description; at all events, the drawing of -this Plate perfectly agrees with it.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_199" id="page_199"></a>{199}</span></p></div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="pl_IX" id="pl_IX"></a> -<a href="images/ill_pg_198_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_198_sml.jpg" width="459" height="310" alt="Image not available: Pl. 9." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">Pl. 9.</span> -</div> - -<p>Heliogabalus eat only the brains of these birds.<a name="anc_xx_54" id="anc_xx_54"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_54"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_54]</span></a> This dish -appeared to him most excellent, for it was very costly.</p> - -<p>The extreme delicacy of this volatile, which poetical connoisseurs have -celebrated in their verses,<a name="anc_xx_55" id="anc_xx_55"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_55"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_55]</span></a> recommends it to those with weak -stomachs and to convalescents. Pompey being ill, his physician ordered -him a thrush, but it was impossible to find one in Rome. Some one -advised the celebrated general to apply to Lucullus, who fattened them -throughout the year. “What,” cried Pompey, ill-humouredly, “shall I have -to thank Lucullus’s pompous luxury for life!” He refused to eat the -thrush, and he recovered.<a name="anc_xx_56" id="anc_xx_56"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_56"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_56]</span></a></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>THE BLACKBIRD.</h3> - -<p>What has been already said of the thrush precludes the necessity of -writing much on the blackbird, for both these kinds of birds were -equally dear to the gastronomists of Greece and Italy.<a name="anc_xx_57" id="anc_xx_57"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_57"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_57]</span></a> They were -fattened in the same manner,<a name="anc_xx_58" id="anc_xx_58"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_58"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_58]</span></a> served on the same tables. The -blackbird, in fact, like the thrush, re-established the strength and -health of the rich.<a name="anc_xx_59" id="anc_xx_59"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_59"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_59]</span></a> The poor were compelled to have recourse to -less expensive remedies.</p> - -<p>“The flesh of the blackbird, so delicate in the time of gathering -grapes, acquires at that period a savour which makes it as precious as -the quail, but becomes bitter when they feed on the juniper berries, the -ivy, or other similar fruits. Some medicinal properties are attributed -to it; the oil in which the blackbirds have been cooked is recommended -to persons afflicted with sciatica: and the soil of these birds, -dissolved in vinegar, is, we are informed, a certain specific for -removing the freckles of the face or spots on the skin.”—<span class="smcap">Vieillot.</span></p> - -<p>In 1468, Louis XI. ordered one of his authorised ruffians, named -Perdriel, to seize all the tame blackbirds he could find in Paris. These -poor birds were sent to Amboise, where a register was kept of what they -said or sung. It appears that the king intended to punish those citizens -of his capital who taught these innocent volatiles to repeat abuse of -the sovereign, after which he would have wrung the necks of the too -intelligent birds. Louis XI. could not carry out this singular idea, -because he himself was shortly after the Duke of Burgundy’s prisoner at -Péronne. Blackbirds and citizens had a narrow escape.<a name="anc_xx_60" id="anc_xx_60"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_60"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_60]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_200" id="page_200"></a>{200}</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>THE STARLING.</h3> - -<p>Drusus and Britannicus, sons of the Emperor Claudius, had a starling -which spoke admirably the Greek and Latin. Alone he studied his lessons, -and afterwards recited them to the astonished princes.<a name="anc_xx_61" id="anc_xx_61"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_61"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_61]</span></a> Science -protected the learned bird from the fate reserved by the Greeks and -Romans for the rest of its family, less distinguished by their erudition -than by their culinary qualities. Starlings, roasted in the kitchens, -honourably associated with partridges, blackbirds, and thrushes,<a name="anc_xx_62" id="anc_xx_62"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_62"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_62]</span></a> -and the disciples of Galen recommended them to their patients, who -willingly submitted to so nourishing and light a food.<a name="anc_xx_63" id="anc_xx_63"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_63"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_63]</span></a></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>THE FLAMINGO.</h3> - -<p>A profound study of the art of good cheer caused the Romans to discover -that the thick tongue of the phenicopter, or flamingo, presents towards -its root a rather considerable adipose appendage. They tasted this lump -of fat, and Rome was enriched with another dish.</p> - -<p>It has been asserted that the glory of inventing this refinement in -gluttony is due to Apicius. Italy possessed three gastrophiles of this -name: the first flourished a short time before the dictatorship of -Julius Cæsar; the second, Marcus Gabius, held a school of sensuality at -Rome, under the reigns of Augustus and Tiberius; the third, Cælius, was -contemporary with Trajan, and poisoned himself for fear of dying of -hunger.</p> - -<p>We possess, under the name of this last, a Latin work in ten books, from -which we have borrowed largely, as the reader may have already remarked. -It would be difficult to decide to which of the three Apicii it belongs. -The author speaks of the flamingo, but does not mention its tongue: the -treatise, then, is not the work of M. Gabius, who would doubtless have -indicated the preparation of a dish of which Pliny assures us he was so -fond.<a name="anc_xx_64" id="anc_xx_64"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_64"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_64]</span></a> As to Cælius, if he were the compiler of this<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_201" id="page_201"></a>{201}</span></p> - -<div class="figleft"><a name="pl_X" id="pl_X"></a> -<a href="images/ill_pg_201a_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_201a_sml.jpg" width="123" height="183" alt="Image not available: Pl. 10" /></a> -<p class="caption">APICIUS</p> -</div> - -<div class="figright"> -<a href="images/ill_pg_201b_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_201b_sml.jpg" width="116" height="169" alt="Image not available: Pl. 10" /></a> -<p class="caption">EPICURUS</p> -</div> - -<p class="nind">curious volume, as it is thought, how comes it he has forgotten a dish -so justly celebrated, in this magiric catalogue, in which no detail, -however minute, seems to escape him? It would appear that this contested -paternity rightfully belongs to the first Apicius, unless some of the -learned contest it on the ground that the style of the work nowise -agrees with the latinity of his century.<a name="anc_xx_65" id="anc_xx_65"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_65"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_65]</span></a></p> - -<p>May one of the learned societies of Europe some day take up this arduous -question, and restore the ancient masterpiece to its admirable author. -In the meantime the writer of the present work will continue to venerate -the memory of Cælius Apicius, and offer him crowns of smallage, roses, -and parsley, for his name embellishes the frontispiece of those pages -which reveal to us the secrets of Roman cookery; and we repeat, with -Sosie:—</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">“Le véritable Amphitryon<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Est l’Amphitryon où l’on dine.”<a name="anc_xx_66" id="anc_xx_66"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_66"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_66]</span></a><br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>Honour is due also to the other Apicius for his ingenious sauce of -flamingo tongues. True, we have never tasted it, for this expensive -fancy can only be satisfied in the marshes of the Nile.<a name="anc_xx_67" id="anc_xx_67"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_67"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_67]</span></a> It is -still little known in Europe, but the most fastidious of the Romans -regaled themselves with it.<a name="anc_xx_68" id="anc_xx_68"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_68"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_68]</span></a> Three Emperors, Caligula, Vitellius, -and Heliogabalus—immortal triumvirate of incomparable -polyphagists!—carried to indigestion their gastronomic delirium, their -love for this famous <i>ragoût</i>.<a name="anc_xx_69" id="anc_xx_69"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_69"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_69]</span></a> These great authorities are -conclusive.</p> - -<p>The traveller, Dampier, wished to try the flesh of the flamingo, and he -thought it very good, though lean, and very black.<a name="anc_xx_70" id="anc_xx_70"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_70"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_70]</span></a></p> - -<p>“The flesh of the phenicopterus is a dish more sought after in Egypt -than in Europe; however, Catesby compares it for its delicacy to the -partridge; Dampier says it has a fine flavour, although lean; Dutertre -finds it excellent notwithstanding its marshy taste; the tongue is the -most delicious part.”—<span class="smcap">Vieillot.</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>FIG-PECKER, <span class="smcap">or</span>, BECAFICO.</h3> - -<p>The Duke of C—— had received from nature one of those culinary -organizations which the vulgar assimilate with gluttony, and the man of -art calls genius. Greece would have raised statues to him; the Roman -emperor Vitellius would have shared the Empire with him. In<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_202" id="page_202"></a>{202}</span> France he -gained the esteem of all parties by inviting them to sumptuous banquets.</p> - -<p>This rich patrician brought up with tender care a young <i>chef de -cuisine</i>, whom his <i>major-domo</i> had bequeathed to him on his death-bed, -as Mazarin did Colbert to Louis XIV. The disciple profited by the -learned lessons of the Duke; already the young <i>chef’s</i> head, eye, and -hand possessed that promptitude and certainty whose union is so rarely -combined: there remained for him only the instruction of experience.</p> - -<p>One day, in the month of September, some guests of the highest class, -all professed judges in the order of epicureans, met together at the -residence of the noble Amphitryon, who often claimed the authority of -their enlightened judgment. The learned Areopagitæ had to pronounce on -certain new dishes: it was necessary, by dint of seduction, to captivate -the favour and patronage of these judges by disarming their severity.</p> - -<p>Everything was served to the greatest nicety, everything was deemed -exquisite, and they only awaited the dessert—that little course which -causes the emotion of the great culinary drama to be forgotten—when the -young <i>chef</i> appeared, and placed in the centre of the table a silver -dish, containing twelve eggs. “Eggs!” exclaimed the Duke. The astonished -guests looked at each other in silence. The cook took one of the eggs, -placed it in a little china boat, slightly broke the shell, and begged -his master to taste the contents. The latter continued to remove the -white envelope, and at length discovered a savoury and perfumed ball of -fat. It was a fig-pecker of a golden colour—fat, delicate, -exquisite—surrounded by a wonderful seasoning.<a name="anc_xx_71" id="anc_xx_71"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_71"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_71]</span></a></p> - -<p>The good old man cast on his pupil a look full of tenderness and pride; -and, holding out his hand to him: “You are inspired by Petronius,” said -he; “to imitate in such a manner is to create. Courage! I am much -pleased with you.”</p> - -<p>This classic dish—a revival from the feasts of Trimalcio—enjoyed only -an ephemeral glory. Europe was on fire; a warlike fever raged -everywhere; and Paris soon forgot the eggs of Petronius.</p> - -<p>The fig-pecker merits the attention of the most serious gastronomists. -The ancients reckoned it among the most refined of dishes.<a name="anc_xx_72" id="anc_xx_72"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_72"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_72]</span></a> The -Greeks made delicate pies of this bird, which exhaled an odour so -tempting, that criticism was disarmed beforehand.<a name="anc_xx_73" id="anc_xx_73"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_73"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_73]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Romans gave it their entire esteem,<a name="anc_xx_74" id="anc_xx_74"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_74"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_74]</span></a> and prepared it with<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_203" id="page_203"></a>{203}</span> -truffles and mushrooms.<a name="anc_xx_75" id="anc_xx_75"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_75"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_75]</span></a> Among them, men who knew what good cheer -means, thought there was nothing worth eating in birds but the leg and -lower part of the body. Fig-peckers were the only exception to this -rule: they were served and eaten entire.</p> - -<p>“In the southerly parts of France, and in Italy, all the different -species of linget, and almost all birds with a slender beak, are -commonly called becafico, because in the autumn they attack and eat the -figs, and thereby the flesh of these birds becomes then fat and -exquisite; but that really known as the becafico is remarkable for its -delicacy; therefore it has at all times been <i>recherché</i> as an excellent -eating. It is like a small lump of light fat—savoury, melting, easy of -digestion; and, in truth, an extract of the juice from the delicious -fruits it has fed upon.”—<i>Vieillot.</i></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>THE ORTOLAN.</h3> - -<p>Florence and Bologna sent to Rome cases of ortolans, the enormous price -of which irritated instead of discouraging gluttony.<a name="anc_xx_76" id="anc_xx_76"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_76"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_76]</span></a> They arrived -in the metropolis of the world, picked and separated one from the other -by layers of flour to prevent decomposition.<a name="anc_xx_77" id="anc_xx_77"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_77"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_77]</span></a> Each of these little -birds furnished only a mouthful; but this incomparable mouthful eclipsed -everything else, and produced a sort of epicurean extacy which may be -called the <i>transcendantalism</i> of gastronomy.</p> - -<p>Ortolans were submitted to the same treatment as fig-peckers in their -preparation.</p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>THE OSTRICH.</h3> - -<p>There were tribes formerly in Arabia who fed on ostriches, and who for -this reason were called strutiophagists.<a name="anc_xx_78" id="anc_xx_78"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_78"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_78]</span></a> Marmot asserts that, in -his time, they were eaten in Africa, although their flesh was glutinous, -and had a bad smell. When the people of Numidia took any that were -young, they reared and fatted them, and led them to feed by flocks in -the Desert; and as soon as they were fat they killed and salted -them.<a name="anc_xx_79" id="anc_xx_79"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_79"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_79]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Arabs of the present day abstain from them; but it is said they seek -much the fat, which they use plentifully in cooking.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_204" id="page_204"></a>{204}</span></p> - -<p>They were served at Rome on a few tables. This was nothing but a -depravation of taste.</p> - -<p>Heliogabalus, who understood good living better, contented himself with -the brains of ostriches. Six hundred of these animals furnished enough -for one meal.<a name="anc_xx_80" id="anc_xx_80"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_80"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_80]</span></a> The devastation was great, but the emperor had made -a good supper.</p> - -<p>The ostrich’s eggs are very hard, very heavy, and very large; their -weight often equals three pounds. The colour is of a dirty white, with -light yellow veins; they are good to eat. In Africa they are sought -after as a <i>friandise</i>, and cooked in various ways. The commonest and -the best is, after breaking, to mix and cook them with a good deal of -butter. They are large enough and sufficient for a man’s meal.</p> - -<p>When the Arabs have killed an ostrich they open its throat, and make a -ligature under the opening; three or four men take the bird, and shake -it, the same as rincing a pouch; after which, the ligature being undone, -a considerable quantity of a greasy substance comes out, mixed with -blood and fat as thick as coagulated oil. One ostrich produces as much -as twenty pounds of it, and it is used for the preparation of dishes, -for the cure of rheumatism, <i>humeurs froides</i>, and paralysis. The Romans -used this grease for the same purposes, and believed it possessed the -most precious qualities.</p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>THE STORK.</h3> - -<p>In spite of the religious respect of the Romans for this bird, the -emblem of peace<a name="anc_xx_81" id="anc_xx_81"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_81"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_81]</span></a> and domestic virtues, Sempronius Rufus, an -ancient prætor, caused his cook to dress some young storks; and this -brought into fashion<a name="anc_xx_82" id="anc_xx_82"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_82"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_82]</span></a> a dish which caprice alone could introduce -at feasts.<a name="anc_xx_83" id="anc_xx_83"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_83"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_83]</span></a></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>THE SEA-SWALLOW.</h3> - -<p>Among the ancients, the swallow—joyous herald of spring—possessed -little attraction for those men whom their gluttony has rendered so -justly celebrated. Alas! they knew not the “Salangan swallow,”<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_205" id="page_205"></a>{205}</span> <i>hirundo -esculenta</i>; they never tasted those birds’ nests which Europe still -envies the East.</p> - -<p>The inhabitants of the Philippine Islands give the designation of -salangan swallow to a little coast bird (the halcyon, or kingfisher), -celebrated for the singular construction of its nest. These nests have -been compared to those which the Greeks and Romans called halcyon’s -nests; but this comparison is false, since the marine productions to -which they gave this name are not birds’ nests but polypus’s, or the -cylindrical covering of the polypi—the <i>halcyonium</i>—a kind of -medicament, of which there were several varieties.<a name="anc_xx_103" id="anc_xx_103"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_103"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_103]</span></a></p> - -<p>All travellers agree that the Chinese, and other eastern nations, have -an extreme partiality for the salangan’s nest, as a delicious seasoning -for their viands, and that they value it excessively; but they differ -strangely as to its nature, its form, and the places where it is found.</p> - -<p>According to some, the material of these nests is a froth of the sea, or -the spawn of fish, and strongly aromatic. Others say it has no taste. -Some pretend that it is a juice gathered by the salangans from the tree -called <i>salambouc</i>; some maintain that it is a viscous humour that they -give out from the beak at a certain period of the year; and, lastly, -many affirm that these birds compose it entirely from the remains of -fish-zoophytes.</p> - -<p>With respect to the form, some say that it is hemispherical; others that -it resembles a shell valve.</p> - -<p>As to the places where the salangans build their nests, some observers -assure us that it is fixed on the rocks a little above the level of the -sea; in the hollows of those same rocks; and, lastly, that they conceal -them in holes which they burrow under ground. According to Kœmpfer, -these nests, so far as they are known to us, are nothing more than a -preparation concocted from the flesh of the polypi.</p> - -<p>The celebrated traveller Poivre, while occupied one day in picking up -shells and coral near Java, penetrated a rather deep cavern at a short -distance from the sea shore, and found the sides of it covered with -little nests, in the form of a deep shell, firmly fixed to the rock. -These nests were taken on board, and several persons who had been in -China immediately recognised them as being identical with those that the -Chinese seek with such avidity. The birds which had built them were true -swallows, of about the size of the humming bird. Poivre adds that, in -the months of March and April, the sea from Java to Cochin<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_206" id="page_206"></a>{206}</span> China is -covered with spawn, which has the appearance of half-dissolved glue, and -that he had learned from the Malays and the Cochin Chinese that the -salangan builds its nest with this spawn. All agreed on this point. The -bird picks it up as he skims the water, or from the rocks where the -spawn coagulates. It is at the end of July and the commencement of -August that the Cochin Chinese collect the nests, and, as the young -birds are hatched in March and April, the species do not suffer by it.</p> - -<p>By the subsequent examination of these nests it was found that they -presented the form of the half of a hollow, lengthened ellipsoid. They -are composed, externally, of very thin laminæ, nearly concentric, and -laid one over the other. The interior presents several layers of -irregular net-work, superposed one over another, and formed of a -multitude of threads of the same matter as the external laminæ, and -which cross and re-cross in every direction.</p> - -<p>Their composition, which has a slight taste of salt, is of a yellowish -white and demi-transparent; it softens in warm water without dissolving, -and increases in volume. It is a substantial food, and would be -excellent for persons suffering from exhaustion, whose debile stomachs -ill perform their functions. Poivre declares that he never eat anything -more fortifying than a pottage made with these nests and some good meat.</p> - -<p>The salangan nests are of two sorts—the white and the black. It appears -that the white nests are those of the same year, and that the black ones -belong to an epoch less recent. The birds are engaged about two months -in preparing them, and the Chinese do not take them away until the young -ones are feathered, and begin to be pretty strong on the wing.<a name="anc_xx_104" id="anc_xx_104"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_104"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_104]</span></a></p> - -<hr /> - -<p>This nomenclature would be incomplete, did we not briefly mention some -kinds of game which appeared with more or less favour on the tables of -the ancients.</p> - -<p>The <i>Wood-Hen</i>, dear to the Greeks,<a name="anc_xx_84" id="anc_xx_84"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_84"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_84]</span></a> was not common at Rome in the -time of Varro. The curious reared them in aviaries with other rare -birds.<a name="anc_xx_85" id="anc_xx_85"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_85"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_85]</span></a></p> - -<p>The <i>Bustard</i>, the <i>Water-Hen</i>, and the <i>Teal</i>, found many -admirers.<a name="anc_xx_86" id="anc_xx_86"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_86"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_86]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_207" id="page_207"></a>{207}</span> The Romans reared the last-named,<a name="anc_xx_87" id="anc_xx_87"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_87"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_87]</span></a> and judged it -worthy of notice among the most delicate morsels of the feast.</p> - -<p>The <i>Woodcock</i>, which is thought to be the <i>rustica perdix</i> of -Martial,<a name="anc_xx_88" id="anc_xx_88"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_88"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_88]</span></a> and the <i>Snipe</i> do not appear to have obtained from the -gastrophilists of antiquity that attention they deserved. This delicious -game was ill-appreciated in Italy and at Athens. History, that -“conscience of posterity,” reproaches them with this oversight, and is -astonished that the <i>Curlew</i> should have usurped, particularly in -Greece,<a name="anc_xx_89" id="anc_xx_89"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_89"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_89]</span></a> a pre-eminence which it certainly does not deserve.</p> - -<p>“The fat of the snipe is of a most delicate savour, which it acquires -only after the first appearance of the frosty season. It is cooked like -the woodcock, without being drawn.”—<span class="smcap">Vieillot.</span></p> - -<p>The <i>gourmets</i> have a way of knowing when the flesh of the woodcock is -arrived at the degree of flavour required to be sought after: the bird -is suspended by the beam-feather of the middle of its tail; when the -body gets loose and full, then is the time to eat it.</p> - -<p>“The woodcock is cooked with the entrails in, which, being pounded with -what they contain, form its own and best seasoning.”—<i>Sonnini.</i></p> - -<p>The <i>Crow</i>, an object of superstitious worship among the -Egyptians,<a name="anc_xx_90" id="anc_xx_90"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_90"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_90]</span></a> offered to the less scrupulous inhabitants of -Alexandria a dish unequalled in delicacy;<a name="anc_xx_91" id="anc_xx_91"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_91"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_91]</span></a> but which never seems -to have tempted the nations of the west.</p> - -<p>The <i>Turtle Dove</i>,<a name="anc_xx_92" id="anc_xx_92"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_92"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_92]</span></a> whose timid innocence caused it to be revered -in Assyria,<a name="anc_xx_93" id="anc_xx_93"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_93"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_93]</span></a> had a less glorious destiny at Rome. It was roasted, -and epicures greedily devoured the legs.<a name="anc_xx_94" id="anc_xx_94"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_94"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_94]</span></a></p> - -<p>The <i>Lark</i> joined to the delicate flavour of its flesh a more precious -quality; either roast or boiled, it infallibly cured persons attacked -with the colic.<a name="anc_xx_95" id="anc_xx_95"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_95"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_95]</span></a> We cannot say whether it possesses this useful -property at the present day.</p> - -<p>“The common lark, which is called at Paris <i>mauviette</i>, is generally -looked upon as a wholesome, delicate, and light game. It is dressed in -various ways; and the <i>gourmets</i> appreciate the value of the excellent -lark pies which have established the reputation of the town of -Pithiviers in France.”—<span class="smcap">Sonnini.</span></p> - -<p>The Romans went to almost fabulous expenses in order to procure game. -What enormous sums, may we not imagine, were given for those dishes of -flamingoes’ tongues and ostriches’ brains already mentioned! What must -have been the cost of the seven thousand birds which the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_208" id="page_208"></a>{208}</span> brother of -Vitellius served to the voracious emperor!<a name="anc_xx_96" id="anc_xx_96"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_96"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_96]</span></a> And yet all these -follies fall far short of those they committed through their love of -fish.</p> - -<p>The inventive genius of the Greeks discovered in ichthyophagy strange -refinements, though always impressed with we know not what kind of -propriety, which seems to palliate their excesses. The Romans at first -imitated, and soon afterwards surpassed them. Their frightful gluttony -was revived by crime, and exulted in barbarity. The sea eels (conger, or -<i>muræna helena</i>) will not eat; let a slave be thrown to them, young and -healthy, his flesh will be more tempting and alive, that his struggle -against unspeakable tortures may the better irritate the devouring -ardour of these beloved fish. And a few days afterwards, the grave -patrician, or the noble knight, again offered them this human food; and -no remorse, no doubt, no gloom, ever clouded his brow; no thrill of -horror crossed his mind, while he feasted on those sea eels he had -fattened so well.</p> - -<p>More than two-thirds of the inhabitants of the most civilised countries -were plunged in slavery, and employed solely to gratify the sensuality -of the other third. That alone gives a terrifying idea of the contempt -in which man was held by his fellow-man, of the power of egotism, and of -the vast corruption resulting from it. And what cruelties were committed -in the face of heaven, sanctioned by the law, and by the manners and -customs of society! The masters had absolute power over their slaves, -and could punish them with blows or death at their own will and -pleasure.<a name="anc_xx_97" id="anc_xx_97"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_97"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_97]</span></a> If an unfortunate servant happened to taste a sauce, or -the remains of a fish, this unpardonable crime was often punished by -crucifixion.<a name="anc_xx_98" id="anc_xx_98"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_98"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_98]</span></a> The virtuous Cato sold his old slaves at whatever -price they would fetch, rather than feed useless beings.<a name="anc_xx_99" id="anc_xx_99"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_99"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_99]</span></a> The -senator, Q. Flaminius, put one of his domestics to death as a new -spectacle for one of his friends, who had never enjoyed the pleasure of -seeing a man killed.<a name="anc_xx_100" id="anc_xx_100"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_100"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_100]</span></a> If the father of a family was assassinated -in his house, and the murderer was not discovered, all the slaves were -subject to the capital punishment. One of the grandees of Rome, who -possessed four hundred of them, having been killed by one of the number, -they were all put to death.<a name="anc_xx_101" id="anc_xx_101"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_101"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_101]</span></a> At the funeral of rich persons, a -certain number of slaves were often slain as victims agreeable to their -manes.</p> - -<p>And what is remarkable is, that these things, which we can hardly -believe, were not viewed as excesses, not even as an abuse of power, but -simply as the exercise of a natural right. Such scenes were witnessed<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_209" id="page_209"></a>{209}</span> -daily, without exciting the least censure, or the slightest -protestation, on the part of those numerous writers and sophists, who -passed their whole lives in declaiming against the manners of the age. -It is true that legislation had taken the lead by applying to slaves -this dreadful aphorism: “They are still more null than vile;”—<i>Non tam -viles quam nulli sunt</i>.<a name="anc_xx_102" id="anc_xx_102"></a><a href="#footnote-xx_102"><span class="fnanchor">[XX_102]</span></a></p> - -<p>Such were the conquerors of the world! Such were those Romans who -invented dreadful crimes through love of good living!<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_210" id="page_210"></a>{210}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="XXI" id="XXI"></a>XXI.<br /><br /> -FISH.</h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">Perhaps</span> it has not been sufficiently remarked that the science of -ichthyophagy is generally developed in a direct ratio with the -civilization of a people. Man began at first by satisfying the imperious -necessities of his stomach; he then eat to live, and all was good to -him. Experience by degrees gave rise to <i>eclectism</i>—choice. It was then -discovered that a coarse and solid food might be replaced by a delicate -and savoury alimentation; joyous appetite, and sensuality, its -effeminate companion, took the place of hunger, and this happy couple -gave birth to the more amiable of fairies, who, under the name of -Gastronomy, was soon to govern the world and prescribe to it -imperishable laws.</p> - -<p>It is asserted that the art of preparing fish was one of the first boons -of this powerful sovereign, and that, instructed by her, Thetis rendered -ichthyophagist the god of light and the fine arts.<a name="anc_xxi_1" id="anc_xxi_1"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_1"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_1]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Jews, an agricultural people, living far from the borders of the -sea, attached but very little importance to fishing and the researches -necessarily attendant on it; so much so, that we hardly perceive any -trace among them of this kind of food, which Moses did not entirely -interdict, since that wise legislator was satisfied with prohibiting -fishes without scales or fins.<a name="anc_xxi_2" id="anc_xxi_2"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_2"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_2]</span></a> What an immense wealth remained -unexplored! Let us pity them for not having known how to profit by it, -notwithstanding the good will of the Phœnicians, inhabitants of the -coast, who brought them the produce of their maritime excursions.</p> - -<p>Let us say it: the Hebrews were tolerably bad cooks. They possessed most -admirable laws, a fertile country, courage and many virtues, but their -sobriety never would allow them to understand the art of good living. In -that, they are to be pitied.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_211" id="page_211"></a>{211}</span></p> - -<p>We must agree that the Egyptians had better taste. Worshippers of -certain fish, they used to embalm them<a name="anc_xxi_3" id="anc_xxi_3"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_3"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_3]</span></a> as a means of -preservation; and what is still better, they eat others in spite of the -example of their priests, who never touched them.<a name="anc_xxi_4" id="anc_xxi_4"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_4"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_4]</span></a> In fact, the -preparation of those dishes required the trouble of a little study and -culinary labour; therefore, to avoid it, they eat the fish raw when very -hungry; the epicures dried them in the sun, and they were served salted -on great solemnities.</p> - -<p>But it was left to a woman to understand this wholesome and delicate -food, and to raise it to the rank it ought always to have occupied.</p> - -<p>Gatis—let her be named with admiration—Queen of Syria, and no doubt a -beautiful woman, was so fond of fish that, in order to be continually -supplied with the choicest quality, she ordered all caught in her -kingdom to be brought to her, and that none should be eaten without the -royal permission. This law, for it really was one, created great -dissatisfaction; but she very sensibly allowed them to complain, and -continued to treat herself and those of her privileged subjects whom she -condescended sometimes to admit to her table, with the most exquisite -dishes of fish, such as the tunny, conger eel, and carp.<a name="anc_xxi_5" id="anc_xxi_5"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_5"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_5]</span></a> It is -much to be regretted that the chroniclers of that time have forgotten to -transmit to us the name of the cook of this illustrious Queen, and the -recipes of the sauces she preferred.</p> - -<p>With great pleasure we turn to the Greeks, that charming people who had -only to set their foot on the most barren soil to cover it with flowers, -and who laid the foundation of ichthyophagy as well as all other -sciences.</p> - -<p>It appears, however, that, at first, they thought but little of fish as -an aliment. None had ever been served to the heroes of Homer, and -Ulysses, relating that his hungry companions had partaken of some fish, -seems to excuse them, by saying: “Hunger pressed their digestive -organs.”<a name="anc_xxi_6" id="anc_xxi_6"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_6"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_6]</span></a> To be sure a celebrated philosopher,<a name="anc_xxi_7" id="anc_xxi_7"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_7"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_7]</span></a> and also an -amiable epicurean,<a name="anc_xxi_8" id="anc_xxi_8"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_8"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_8]</span></a> attributed this grievous abstinence of those -warriors to the fear of being enervated by dishes too delicious. And -then, the terrible Achilles and the impetuous Ajax could not, perhaps, -make up their minds to degustate under their tents a sole <i>au gratin</i>, -or a fried herring, with the slow precaution more humble mortals -willingly submit to.</p> - -<p>But shortly after that, fresh and salt fish became one of the principal -articles of diet with the Hellenes.</p> - -<p>Aristophanes and the gastrophilist Athenæus, allude to it a<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_212" id="page_212"></a>{212}</span> hundred -times in their writings, and various personages are the subjects of -biting sarcasms on account of their excessive partiality to the mullet, -scar, and turbot. We may name, among others, Philoxenes of Cythera, who -learning from his doctor that he was going to die of indigestion, for -having eaten too much of a most exquisite fish: “Be it so,” he calmly -exclaimed; “but, before I go, allow me to finish the remainder.”<a name="anc_xxi_9" id="anc_xxi_9"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_9"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_9]</span></a></p> - -<p>Everyone knows the witty jokes of Lucian, who informs us that he knew a -philosopher who examined, with the most serious comicality, the nature -of the soul of an oyster.<a name="anc_xxi_10" id="anc_xxi_10"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_10"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_10]</span></a></p> - -<p>Highly favoured by the neighbourhood of the sea, the Greek population -applied themselves, with that peculiar taste which characterized them, -to distinguish the best species; and skilful cooks knew how to give to -fish the most refined flavour, thanks to the numerous combinations of -ingredients which we too have learned from the ancient authors who have -written on dietetics. They possessed various ways of preparing them with -salt or oil, and aromatics.<a name="anc_xxi_11" id="anc_xxi_11"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_11"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_11]</span></a> Athenæus has transmitted to us some -very important precepts upon their seasoning. Æschylus and Sophocles -were not above lowering their tragic muse by sometimes introducing -remarks on fish sauce.</p> - -<p>The productions of the sea had for Athens such an irresistible interest, -that a law of police forbad all fishmongers to sit down until they had -parted with the whole of their stock; so that the uncomfortable position -of standing made them more submissive, and induced them to dispose of -the fish at a more reasonable price.<a name="anc_xxi_12" id="anc_xxi_12"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_12"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_12]</span></a> This regulation in the -“Billingsgate” of Athens was very rigorously observed, and the -purchasers were highly delighted with it.</p> - -<p>They also required that the fish should always be out of the water; and -this wise law, consequently, did not allow its being preserved, or the -price to be increased.<a name="anc_xxi_13" id="anc_xxi_13"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_13"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_13]</span></a> And finally, as soon as any kind of fish -was brought to market, they were required to call the customers together -immediately, by a kind of market-bell, which was a sort of invitation to -come and make their purchases.<a name="anc_xxi_14" id="anc_xxi_14"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_14"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_14]</span></a></p> - -<p>Some would-be philosophers, members of the opposition of that period, -thought of raising their voices against the common taste. Symmachus, -Polycrates, and Lamprias, tried to prove, in their writings, that those -who eat fish were the most cruel and ferocious of men. These tender -ichthyophilists were laughed at, and their works had no sale.</p> - -<p>The Romans inherited the predilection of the Greeks, “For the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_213" id="page_213"></a>{213}</span> dumb -companions of the fair Amphitryte;” but, excited by the love of the -marvellous, they stocked the sea with imaginary beings; and they saw -whales of four acres, fishes of two hundred cubits, and even that eel, -or that serpent, which veridical navigators have seen again in our days. -It was then thirty feet in length,<a name="anc_xxi_15" id="anc_xxi_15"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_15"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_15]</span></a> but now it is much longer!</p> - -<p>Pliny, who believed so many things, swore to these by the twelve great -gods of Olympus. At all events, we are much indebted to that laborious -naturalist for very precious information. He has made us acquainted with -the scare, which the Roman epicures preferred to every other species. -After the scare, the eel-pout or lotas’-liver enjoyed a great -reputation. The red mullet, which is still much esteemed, was considered -as one of the most delicate of dishes, and the Romans in fashionable -circles employed it in a refinement of pleasure of a singular kind.</p> - -<p>It is well known that this fish, when the scales are removed, still -remains of a fine pink colour. The fops of Rome having remarked that, at -the death, this colour passed through a succession of the most beautiful -shades, the poor mullet was served alive, inclosed in a glass vessel; -and the guests, attentive and greedy of emotions, enjoyed this cruel -spectacle, which presented to them a gradation of colours, which -insensibly disappeared.<a name="anc_xxi_16" id="anc_xxi_16"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_16"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_16]</span></a></p> - -<p>The greatest sensualists killed it in brine, and Apicius was the first -who invented this kind of luxury. The brine most in use, in such cases, -was made with the blood of mackerel, and that was one of the varieties -of that famous garum so highly praised by the Latin authors, and which -was to them, at that period, what the fish sauces of the English are -now. We will give, in this work, the various preparations of this so -celebrated condiment, and the reader will then be able to judge for -himself.</p> - -<p>Apicius, the man of culinary progress, proposed a prize to any one who -could invent a new brine made with the liver of red mullets. History has -not transmitted to us the name of the fortunate conqueror; but Juvenal -informs us that Asinius Celer offered sixty pounds for one of these -fishes which weighed six pounds.<a name="anc_xxi_17" id="anc_xxi_17"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_17"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_17]</span></a></p> - -<p>This was, after all, but a trifling folly, in the midst of so many -extravagances which several writers have carefully registered. Lucullus, -the most ostentatious of the patricians, had a mountain cut through in -the neighbourhood of Naples, so as to open a canal and bring up the sea -and its fishes to the centre of the gardens of his sumptuous -villa.<a name="anc_xxi_18" id="anc_xxi_18"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_18"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_18]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_214" id="page_214"></a>{214}</span></p> - -<p>The love of fish became a real mania: turbots excited a <i>furore</i> of -admiration—the <i>muræna Helena</i> was worshipped. Hortensius, the orator, -actually wept over the death of the one he had fed with his own hands; -the daughter of Drusus ornamented hers with golden rings; each had a -name, and would come with speed when it heard the voice of the master, -whose happiness depended on his fish.<a name="anc_xxi_19" id="anc_xxi_19"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_19"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_19]</span></a></p> - -<p>Sometimes, in a moment of over tenderness for his dear <i>muræna Helena</i>, -Vedius Pollio, a Roman knight of the highest distinction, and one of the -intimate friends of the Emperor Augustus, could find nothing better to -do than to feed them with the flesh of his slaves, who were thrown to -them alive.<a name="anc_xxi_20" id="anc_xxi_20"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_20"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_20]</span></a> It is true that these wretched creatures generally -deserved this terrible chastisement; for instance, Seneca speaks of one -who had the awkwardness to break a crystal vase<a name="anc_xxi_21" id="anc_xxi_21"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_21"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_21]</span></a> while waiting at -supper on the irascible Pollio. This unfortunate slave having managed to -escape from the hands of those who were conducting him to this horrible -death, he went and fell on his knees at the feet of Cæsar, whom he -implored to inflict some less frightful torture. Augustus, moved to the -very soul, granted him his liberty, had all of Vedius’s vases broken, -and ordered that the pieces should be used to fill up the reservoir in -which the barbarous knight fed his <i>muræna Helena</i>.<a name="anc_xxi_22" id="anc_xxi_22"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_22"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_22]</span></a></p> - -<p>Having given this rapid sketch of the principal periods of ichthyophagy -among the ancients, little remains to be said of later ages in which we -find few traces of any particular or excessive predilection for this -kind of alimentation. If we are to believe Dio,<a name="anc_xxi_23" id="anc_xxi_23"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_23"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_23]</span></a> the first -inhabitants of Great Britain never eat fish. The English have not -thought it expedient to imitate their ancestors in this respect.</p> - -<p>Under the reign of Edward II., certain fish, especially the sturgeon, -never appeared in England except on the table of the king: it was -prohibited to all others. In 1138, Stephen wanted to modify this -interdiction; but after his reign it was again in vigour, and considered -as a royal prerogative.</p> - -<p>In France, anybody could eat fish, of any and all kinds; but every -fishmonger was obliged to obtain permission from the king to sell -it.<a name="anc_xxi_24" id="anc_xxi_24"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_24"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_24]</span></a></p> - -<p>The sumptuary laws of that kingdom inform us of nothing very interesting -on this essential of gastrology. We find, however, by the Edict of 1294, -that Philip-le-Bel allowed, on fast-days, two herring-pottages, and only -one sort of fish—a meagre dinner, if ever there was one, and which, -thank heaven, has fallen into complete disuse. Louis<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_215" id="page_215"></a>{215}</span> XII. was very fond -of good cheer, and, consequently, he appointed six fishmongers to supply -his table with fresh-water fish;<a name="anc_xxi_25" id="anc_xxi_25"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_25"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_25]</span></a> Francis I. had -twenty-two;<a name="anc_xxi_26" id="anc_xxi_26"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_26"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_26]</span></a> Henry the Great, twenty-four.<a name="anc_xxi_27" id="anc_xxi_27"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_27"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_27]</span></a></p> - -<p>Under the reign of Louis XIV. fish acquired a singular vogue in the city -as well as at court, owing to the marvellous talent of that prince’s -cook, who discovered the art, supposed to be lost, of giving to the -delicate flesh of the pike, the carp, and the trout, the shape and -flavour of the most exquisite game.</p> - -<p>At this period we have the celebrated Vatel, one of the most illustrious -officers of the household that ever flourished in the palace of the -Princes of Condé. This inimitable major-domo understood that a dinner -without fish was a cheerless one. One day when his noble master -entertained Louis XIV. at a royal banquet, at Chantilly, which the -genius of Vatel rendered more brilliant, the fish from the coast failed; -he sent everywhere, but none could be found. He was completely -bewildered: he met his august master, whose kind words, full of -benevolence, only served to increase his desperation; he left him, ran -to his chamber, took his sword, and three times pierced his heart. -Shortly after, fish arrived from all quarters. Vatel was called—no -Vatel! He was sought for, and at last discovered—Vatel was no more!</p> - -<p>It appears that, in former times, there was a remarkable consumption of -fish in England on the 4th of July, the Festival of St. Ulric. The -following verses, by Barnaby Gouge prove it:—</p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>ST. HULDRYCHE.</h3> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">“Wheresoever Huldryche hath his place, the people there brings in<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Both capes and pykes, and mullets fat, his favour here to win.<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Amid the church there sittieth one, and to the aultar nie,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">That selleth fish, and so good cheep, that every man may buie;<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Nor any thing he loseth here, bestowing thus his paine,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">For when it hath beene offred once, ’tis brought him all againe,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">That twise or thrise he selles the same, vngodlinesse such gaine<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Both still bring in, and plentiously the kitchen doth maintaine,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Whence comes this same religion newe? What kind of God is this,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Same Huldryche here, that so desires and so delightes in fishe?”<a name="anc_xxi_28" id="anc_xxi_28"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_28"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_28]</span></a><br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>An ordinance of King John informs us that, in the 14th century, people -eat porpoises and even seals.<a name="anc_xxi_29" id="anc_xxi_29"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_29"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_29]</span></a> In the days of the troubadours, -they fished for dolphins and whales in the Mediterranean, and the flesh -of these sea monsters was considered excellent.<a name="anc_xxi_30" id="anc_xxi_30"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_30"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_30]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_216" id="page_216"></a>{216}</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>STURGEON.</h3> - -<p>This enormous cartilaginous inhabitant of the ocean, the Mediterranean, -the Red, Black, and Caspian Seas, received from the Greeks, after its -death, honours in which none of the most delicate or renowned fish -participated. It was announced to the guests by the sound of trumpets; -and slaves, magnificently dressed, placed it on the table in the midst -of garlands and flowers.<a name="anc_xxi_31" id="anc_xxi_31"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_31"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_31]</span></a></p> - -<p>Joy brightened every face; a more generous wine filled fresh goblets, -and some flatterers—for the sturgeon possessed many—with eyes fixed on -the noble accipenser, compared its flesh to the ambrosia of the -immortals.<a name="anc_xxi_32" id="anc_xxi_32"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_32"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_32]</span></a></p> - -<p>The high price of the sturgeon contributed in no small degree to such -brilliant praise. This king of banquets would have ruined a modest -citizen of Athens, and hardly did the exiguity of its proportions permit -its figuring among the expensive rarities of an Attic supper, when it -had cost only a thousand drachms, or about £16 sterling.<a name="anc_xxi_33" id="anc_xxi_33"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_33"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_33]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Romans, imitators and emulators of the luxury of the Greeks, were -almost equally fond of this fish; and, like them, reserved it for -princely tables, or aristocratic opulence. It would seem, however, that -the enthusiasm excited by the sturgeon somewhat cooled under the reign -of Vespasian.<a name="anc_xxi_34" id="anc_xxi_34"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_34"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_34]</span></a> Perhaps at this period it became more common, or -was sold at a more moderate price. Nothing more was requisite in Rome to -deprive a dish of its most brilliant vogue and most powerful patronage.</p> - -<p>However, the poet Martial, by nature no great flatterer, passes a -pompous eulogium on the monstrous fish,<a name="anc_xxi_35" id="anc_xxi_35"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_35"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_35]</span></a> and judges it worthy of -being placed on the luxurious tables of the Palatine Mount, that Westend -of Rome, rendered illustrious by the presence of kings, nobles, and -emperors.<a name="anc_xxi_36" id="anc_xxi_36"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_36"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_36]</span></a></p> - -<p>We have before observed that the sturgeon was formerly a royal dish in -England.<a name="anc_xxi_37" id="anc_xxi_37"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_37"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_37]</span></a> A celebrated traveller assures us that, at the present -day, the Chinese abstain from it, and that the sovereign of the -Celestial Empire consigns it to his own kitchens, or dispenses it to a -few of his greatest favourites.<a name="anc_xxi_38" id="anc_xxi_38"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_38"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_38]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_217" id="page_217"></a>{217}</span></p> - -<p>This gigantic accipenser, which often weighs two hundred pounds, is -quite common in Siberia, where they even catch some of a much larger -size, since some of the females have been found to contain two hundred -pounds weight of eggs.<a name="anc_xxi_39" id="anc_xxi_39"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_39"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_39]</span></a> In 1750, one was caught in Italy which -weighed 550 lbs. There are some in Norway, the head alone of which -yields a tun of oil,<a name="anc_xxi_40" id="anc_xxi_40"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_40"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_40]</span></a> and whose immense proportions would -formerly have astonished the most intrepid gastrophilists of Athens, -Syracuse, and Rome.</p> - -<p>An alimentary substance, called caviar, furnished almost exclusively by -Russia to the rest of Europe, is prepared from the spawn of several -kinds of sturgeons.</p> - -<p>The spawn of the large sturgeon produces caviar of an inferior quality; -that of the common sturgeon, and the sterlet, is prized as being more -delicate, when it is carefully separated from the vessels and membranes -with which it is intersected, well impregnated with brine, pressed, and -slightly dried. White caviar, it is said, is the best of all. It is -reserved for the court.<a name="anc_xxi_41" id="anc_xxi_41"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_41"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_41]</span></a></p> - -<p>There are two sorts of caviar: granulated caviar, and sack caviar.</p> - -<p>The manufacture of the first named is performed by pressing the spawn on -a sieve, and rubbing it in every direction to remove the pellicles which -adhere to it, after which it is put into strong brine for one hour, then -drained in a sieve, and, finally, pressed close into barrels, so as to -entirely fill them before the head is fastened down.<a name="anc_xxi_42" id="anc_xxi_42"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_42"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_42]</span></a></p> - -<p>The manufacture of the other kind of caviar only differs in two -particulars. The spawn is manipulated while in the brine, in order to -soften it, and it is put, in small portions of about half-a-pound each, -into linen bags, which are powerfully twisted to extract all the brine -before it is pressed into the barrels.</p> - -<p>The workmen employed in these operations make a third kind of caviar -with the refuse. This sort, used only by the poorest classes, deserves -no notice.</p> - -<p>For some years past, they have introduced the method of salting the roes -as they are taken from the fish, and packing them into barrels, where -they remain seven or eight months; after which they are again salted, -and then dried in the sun.</p> - -<p>Caviar occupies a very distinguished place in Russian, Turkish, German, -and Italian gastronomy. The Greeks, in particular, live upon it almost -exclusively during the long Lent fasts prescribed by their -Church.<a name="anc_xxi_43" id="anc_xxi_43"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_43"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_43]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_218" id="page_218"></a>{218}</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>RED MULLET.</h3> - -<p>Philoxenes, of Cythera, supped one night with Dionysius, tyrant of -Sicily. It happened that the prince was served with a magnificent -mullet, whereas a very small one was presented to his guest. The -philosopher took his fish in his hand, and, with a very serious air, -held it to his ear. Dionysius asked him what he was doing. “I am busy -with my Galathea,” replied Philoxenes, “and I am questioning him on the -subject of Nerea; but I can obtain no answer from him, because he was -taken at too early an age. I am certain, however, that the other, -evidently much older, which lies before you, is perfectly well -acquainted with what I wish to know.” The tyrant, who happened that -evening to be in a good humour, laughed at the joke, and offered the -larger mullet to the witty gastronomist.<a name="anc_xxi_44" id="anc_xxi_44"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_44"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_44]</span></a></p> - -<p>The unbridled and cruel luxury of ancient Rome required that this fish -should be cooked by a slow fire, on the table and under a glass, that -the guests might gloat on its sufferings before they satiated their -appetites with its flesh.<a name="anc_xxi_45" id="anc_xxi_45"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_45"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_45]</span></a> It is true this barbarous -gratification was very expensive, and it was necessary to be very rich -to indulge in it—consequently it was decidedly very fashionable, quite -natural, and in the very best taste.</p> - -<p>Ordinary mullets weighed about 2 lbs.;<a name="anc_xxi_46" id="anc_xxi_46"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_46"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_46]</span></a> these hardly deserved -that their dying agonies should for an instant amuse the guests; they -were worth only about £15 or £20 each. But sometimes fortune threw in -their way much larger ones; and the opulent amateur esteemed himself -only too fortunate when he could obtain a fish of three<a name="anc_xxi_47" id="anc_xxi_47"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_47"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_47]</span></a> or four -pounds<a name="anc_xxi_48" id="anc_xxi_48"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_48"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_48]</span></a> for a much higher sum than he had paid for the slave, -tutor of his children.</p> - -<p>Crispinus was fond of mullets. He obtained one weighing four or six -pounds, for which the fishmonger asked only £60.<a name="anc_xxi_49" id="anc_xxi_49"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_49"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_49]</span></a> This was giving -it away; and certainly the man did not understand his trade. Crispinus, -on becoming the possessor of this wonderful treasure, was astonished at -his good fortune, and the whole of Rome long refused to believe it.</p> - -<p>In the reign of Tiberius, three of these fish were sold for 30,000 -sesterces,<a name="anc_xxi_50" id="anc_xxi_50"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_50"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_50]</span></a> or £209 9<i>s.</i> 8<i>d.</i>; and this emperor was one day -generous<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_219" id="page_219"></a>{219}</span> enough to give up to P. Octavius, for the low price of 5,000 -sesterces, a very fine mullet which had just been presented to -him.<a name="anc_xxi_51" id="anc_xxi_51"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_51"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_51]</span></a></p> - -<p>And yet some persons of culinary authority paid but little attention to -the flesh of this delicate fish; they sought only the liver and head; -and if they paid for it so dearly, it was solely to find some few -mouthfuls more in these two parts,<a name="anc_xxi_52" id="anc_xxi_52"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_52"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_52]</span></a> to which caprice, enthusiasm, -that fever of admiration, and we know not what extraordinary gastronomic -rage, gave an inestimable price, which at the present day excites only a -smile of incredulity.</p> - -<p>Pliny speaks of a mullet caught in the red sea, which weighed eighty -pounds.<a name="anc_xxi_53" id="anc_xxi_53"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_53"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_53]</span></a> “At how much,” adds this great naturalist, “would it -have been valued had they caught it in the environs of Rome!” We may -suppose, without the least exaggeration, that many a senator would have -offered £1,500 to become its possessor.</p> - -<p>It is thus that the mistress of the world foolishly dissipated in -ephemeral whims the immense treasures poured into her lap by tributary -kings—conquered and spoliated nations. Each day her patricians, -knights, and nobles, tired of their importunate opulence, solicited new -diversions, and invented new excesses. The mullet for a moment satisfied -their prodigality, and amused their barbarity; but Heliogabalus -appeared, and he imagined prodigies of gluttony which excited at once -admiration and envy. The liver of this fish appeared to him too paltry; -he took it into his head to be served with large dishes completely -filled with the gills.<a name="anc_xxi_54" id="anc_xxi_54"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_54"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_54]</span></a> Now, we know that the mullet possesses -only two. This dish, whose price would have enriched a hundred families, -was worthy of the Sardanapalus of Rome, who, at the age of eighteen, had -exhausted the treasures of the empire, and whom a violent death seized -most <i>à propos</i>, at the moment when he had attained the extreme limits -of crime and infamy.</p> - -<p>The Romans served the mullet with a seasoning of pepper, rue, onions, -dates, and mustard, to which they added the flesh of the sea hedge-hog -reduced to a pulp, and oil.<a name="anc_xxi_55" id="anc_xxi_55"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_55"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_55]</span></a></p> - -<p>When the liver alone was to be eaten, it was cooked, and then seasoned -with pepper, salt, or a little garum—some oil was added, and hare’s or -fowl’s liver, and then oil was poured over the whole.<a name="anc_xxi_56" id="anc_xxi_56"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_56"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_56]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Greeks knew how to appreciate the mullet. They thought highly of -those caught on their own shores<a name="anc_xxi_57" id="anc_xxi_57"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_57"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_57]</span></a>, and placed them in the first -rank of the most exquisite dishes of their delicate cookery.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_220" id="page_220"></a>{220}</span></p> - -<p>“It is with the eggs of mullets, when salted, pressed, washed, and -dried, that the preparation known as <i>botargo</i> or <i>botarcha</i> is made. It -is very <i>recherché</i> in Italy, and other southern countries, as a -seasoning.”—<span class="smcap">Dr. Cloquet.</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>SEA-EEL.</h3> - -<p>The sumptuous abode of L. Crassus echoes with his sighs and groans. His -children and slaves respect his profound sorrow, and leave him with -intelligent affection to solitude—that friend of great grief; so -grateful to the afflicted soul, because tears can flow unwitnessed. -Alas! the favourite sea-eel of Crassus is dead, and it is uncertain -whether Crassus can survive it!</p> - -<p>This sensitive Roman caused this beloved fish to be buried with great -magnificence: he raised a monument to its memory, and never ceased to -mourn for it.<a name="anc_xxi_58" id="anc_xxi_58"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_58"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_58]</span></a></p> - -<p>This man, who displayed so little tenderness towards his servants, had -an extraordinary weakness concerning his fine sea-eels. He passed his -life beside the superb fish-pond, where he lovingly fattened them from -his own hand. Ornamented with necklaces of the finest pearls, and -earrings of precious stones,<a name="anc_xxi_59" id="anc_xxi_59"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_59"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_59]</span></a> all, at a signal, swam towards him; -several fearlessly took the food he offered them; and some, as familiar -as their absent and regretted companion, allowed their master to caress -them without seeking to bite or avoid him.<a name="anc_xxi_60" id="anc_xxi_60"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_60"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_60]</span></a></p> - -<p>This singular passion, which at the present day we can hardly believe, -in spite of the respectable authority of the most serious writers, was -very common at Rome, amongst those who were rich enough to rear such -fish. C. Hirtius was the first to construct fish ponds on the sea shore, -to which many visitors were attracted by their magnificence.<a name="anc_xxi_61" id="anc_xxi_61"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_61"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_61]</span></a> The -family of Licinius took their surname of <i>Muræna</i> from these fish, in -order thus to perpetuate the most silly affection, and the remembrance -of their insanity.<a name="anc_xxi_62" id="anc_xxi_62"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_62"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_62]</span></a></p> - -<p>Sea-eels necessarily pleased men cloyed with pleasures, and who -substituted a kind of cold and cruel curiosity for the terrible emotions -which beings peculiarly organized hope to find in evil-doing:<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_221" id="page_221"></a>{221}</span> -gladiators murdering each other; lions or tigers lacerating the -<i>bestiarii</i>; all these agonies of the amphitheatre had long since lost -the attraction of novelty. It was a much more exciting spectacle to -witness a swarm of sea-eels tearing to pieces an awkward or rebellious -slave; besides, it greatly improved the fish. The atrocious Vedius -Pollio, who understood these matters, never failed to have sea-eels -served him after their odious repast, that he might have the pleasure of -eating some part of the body of his victim.<a name="anc_xxi_63" id="anc_xxi_63"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_63"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_63]</span></a></p> - -<p>Thank Heaven! however, some amateurs of this dreaded fish were not so -barbarous; they fattened them very well without having recourse to such -criminal food. Veal was cut into thin slices, and steeped in the blood -of the animal for ten days, after which the fish greedily regaled -themselves with it.<a name="anc_xxi_64" id="anc_xxi_64"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_64"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_64]</span></a></p> - -<p>It was, doubtless, in this manner that the skilful speculator, -Hirtius,—the same already mentioned—nourished his sea-eels, which -produced him an immense revenue. His fish ponds contained so great a -number that he was able to offer six thousand to Julius Cæsar on the -occasion of the public feast that general gave the day of his triumphal -return from the conquest of Gaul.<a name="anc_xxi_65" id="anc_xxi_65"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_65"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_65]</span></a></p> - -<p>The greater part of the Roman emperors were exceedingly fond of -sea-eels. The greedy Vitellius, growing tired of this dish, would at -last only eat the soft roes: and numerous vessels ploughed the seas in -order to obtain them for him.<a name="anc_xxi_66" id="anc_xxi_66"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_66"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_66]</span></a> This exquisite rarity again -appeared too common to the maniac child, who dismayed and astonished -Rome for the space of three years. Heliogabalus brought the soft roe of -the sea eel into disrepute by ordering that the peasants of the -Mediterranean should be gorged with it.<a name="anc_xxi_67" id="anc_xxi_67"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_67"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_67]</span></a> This folly amused him, -and only cost several millions. That was a trifle when compared with the -blood which almost always flowed to satisfy his whims.</p> - -<p>The Greeks and Latins thought much of sea-eels caught in the straits of -Sicily.<a name="anc_xxi_68" id="anc_xxi_68"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_68"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_68]</span></a> They were sometimes served surrounded with -crawfish;<a name="anc_xxi_69" id="anc_xxi_69"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_69"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_69]</span></a> but more frequently they were dressed with a seasoning -much in fashion, composed of pepper, alisander, savory, saffron, onion, -and stoned Damascus plums. These various substances were mixed together, -and to them were added wine, sweet sun-made wine, old wine reduced by -boiling, garum, vinegar, and oil.<a name="anc_xxi_70" id="anc_xxi_70"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_70"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_70]</span></a></p> - -<p>At Rome the fish market was abundantly supplied with sea-eels from the -Tiber. Connoisseurs thought nothing of them;<a name="anc_xxi_71" id="anc_xxi_71"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_71"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_71]</span></a> they were sold at -a<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_222" id="page_222"></a>{222}</span> low price, and their disgrace became complete directly they appeared -on plebeian tables.</p> - -<p>The Egyptians venerated this fish, and always esteemed it sacred.<a name="anc_xxi_72" id="anc_xxi_72"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_72"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_72]</span></a> -Among the Sybarites, just appreciators of its culinary qualities, the -fishers and sellers of sea-eels were exempt from all taxes.<a name="anc_xxi_73" id="anc_xxi_73"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_73"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_73]</span></a> They -often procured some of such enormous size, that we should be tempted to -accuse the old chroniclers of exaggeration, if we were not aware that -this animal attains considerable dimensions. In the year 1786 a sea-eel -was taken in the Elbe, weighing sixty pounds. This extraordinary fish -measured seven feet two inches in length, and twenty-five inches in the -girth.<a name="anc_xxi_74" id="anc_xxi_74"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_74"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_74]</span></a></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>LAMPREY.</h3> - -<p>In spite of its soft and viscid flesh, this fish occupied in Rome a most -honourable rank among the multitudinous dishes which intemperance was -ever augmenting, and preference was given to that species caught by -enterprising speculators in that strait which separates Sicily from -Italy. These good people averred that lampreys which rise to the surface -of the sea are immediately dried up by the sun, and cannot any more -descend to the depths of the ocean.<a name="anc_xxi_75" id="anc_xxi_75"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_75"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_75]</span></a> This little story did no -harm to their sale; on the contrary, they became on that account more -curiously interesting.</p> - -<p>It was also said, and the serious Gesner himself has repeated this -fable:<a name="anc_xxi_76" id="anc_xxi_76"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_76"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_76]</span></a> That if the fish fastens its mouth to the side of a -vessel it immediately stops, and that the combined power of the wind and -the efforts of the rowers are unavailing.<a name="anc_xxi_77" id="anc_xxi_77"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_77"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_77]</span></a> The fact is that, by -means of a kind of suction, it can fasten firmly on any bodies; and one -weighing only three pounds has been seen to sustain in the air, with its -mouth, a stone weighing twelve pounds.<a name="anc_xxi_78" id="anc_xxi_78"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_78"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_78]</span></a></p> - -<p>The lamprey has not always been the fashion, but it has had brilliant -and glorious epochs. In 1135 it caused so great a fit of indigestion to -Henry I., King of England, that that prince died in consequence of -it.<a name="anc_xxi_79" id="anc_xxi_79"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_79"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_79]</span></a> Since then, in the 16th century, it has been honoured with -the reputation of having caused more than one death.<a name="anc_xxi_80" id="anc_xxi_80"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_80"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_80]</span></a> It was sold -at a very high price, £3 at least, and at certain periods the Roman -nobles even paid as much as £20 for one of these fish.<a name="anc_xxi_81" id="anc_xxi_81"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_81"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_81]</span></a> The -ancient metropolis of the world had sometimes strange reminiscences of -her former grandeur.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_223" id="page_223"></a>{223}</span></p> - -<p>The Italian epicures of that remarkable era used to kill the lamprey in -Candian wine. A nutmeg was placed in the mouth, and a clove in each of -the openings of the gills. They rolled them round in a saucepan, and -after adding crushed almonds, bread crumbs, Candian wine, and spices, -the whole was cooked over a slow fire.<a name="anc_xxi_82" id="anc_xxi_82"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_82"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_82]</span></a></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>SEA-WOLF.</h3> - -<p>Hicesius, one of the most estimable ichthyophagists of antiquity, does -not hesitate to place the sea-wolf above all the fish which by their -excellence were dear to Greece;<a name="anc_xxi_83" id="anc_xxi_83"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_83"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_83]</span></a> and the great Archestratus says, -that the <i>lubridan</i> (a species of the sea-wolf) is a child of the -gods.<a name="anc_xxi_84" id="anc_xxi_84"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_84"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_84]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Romans, touched no doubt by these magnificent praises, granted to -the sea-wolf that favour which a high reputation commands. The immense -sturgeon itself was eclipsed by it, and the sea-wolf had the glory of -throwing this powerful and renowned rival into oblivion.<a name="anc_xxi_85" id="anc_xxi_85"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_85"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_85]</span></a></p> - -<p>Their love for its white and tender flesh knew no bounds,<a name="anc_xxi_86" id="anc_xxi_86"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_86"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_86]</span></a> and -the fishermen of the Tiber were no longer equal to the task of supplying -them for the impatient gluttony of the rich inhabitants of the Palatine -Mount. Still this fish only fetched a high price when taken in a certain -part of the river; from any other place it hardly commanded a few <i>as</i> -(pence). Between the Sublicius and Senatorius bridges, a deep, black, -and fetid water announced the presence of the continual flood of filth -which the giant city poured into it night and day. It was in the midst -of these impurities that shoals of sea-wolves were seen disporting; they -fattened on that shocking slime, and thence passed to the delicate -tables of Lucullus and Cæsar.<a name="anc_xxi_87" id="anc_xxi_87"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_87"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_87]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Greeks contented themselves with lubridans taken in clear water, and -preferred the head to any other part.<a name="anc_xxi_88" id="anc_xxi_88"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_88"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_88]</span></a></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>SCARUS, <span class="smcap">or</span>, PARROT-FISH.</h3> - -<p>The scarus—its modern name is still problematic—furnished the Greeks -with one of those exquisite dishes the remembrance of which never<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_224" id="page_224"></a>{224}</span> dies. -The Romans were not yet acquainted with it, when Octavius, the commander -of a fleet, brought on board the vessels a great quantity of this fish, -which he ordered to be thrown into the sea along the coast of Campania, -and which soon became the delight of the epicures of Rome.<a name="anc_xxi_89" id="anc_xxi_89"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_89"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_89]</span></a> -History has shown too much disdain by neglecting to say more than a few -passing words on the subject of this great service. May a tardy homage -of gratitude be paid to the memory of the benefactor of his country.</p> - -<p>The scarus was prepared without being embowelled, and epicures found it -impossible to satiate themselves with the entrails,<a name="anc_xxi_90" id="anc_xxi_90"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_90"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_90]</span></a> which -obtained for it a gastronomic vogue it long enjoyed without a -rival.<a name="anc_xxi_91" id="anc_xxi_91"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_91"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_91]</span></a> It was asserted that the fish ruminates;<a name="anc_xxi_92" id="anc_xxi_92"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_92"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_92]</span></a> that it -feeds only on herbage;<a name="anc_xxi_93" id="anc_xxi_93"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_93"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_93]</span></a> and that, far from being mute, like the -other inhabitants of the water, it not only emits sounds, but is able to -express by its cries the different sensations it experiences.<a name="anc_xxi_94" id="anc_xxi_94"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_94"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_94]</span></a> -These anomalies, either real or supposed, had, perhaps, as great a share -in rendering the scarus celebrated, as the delicacy of its flesh, and -the exquisite flavour of its intestines. Merit the most real can so -rarely keep the field unsupported by cajollery.</p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>TURBOT.</h3> - -<p>Rome and Italy were indebted to the prætor, Sempronius, or to Rufus -Rutilius,<a name="anc_xxi_95" id="anc_xxi_95"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_95"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_95]</span></a> for the turbot, which they taught their countrymen to -appreciate. This fish quickly obtained the success which it merited, and -was compared to the pheasant, as soles were likened to partridges, -lampreys to quails, and sturgeons to peacocks. Some preferred turbot -from the Adriatic Sea, others that of Ravenna;<a name="anc_xxi_96" id="anc_xxi_96"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_96"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_96]</span></a> but all united in -declaring that there was not a more delicious food, and that a feast -loses all its charm when this delicacy is wanting.</p> - -<p>In the reign of Domitian a monstrous turbot was taken; such a one had -never been seen in the imperial kitchens.<a name="anc_xxi_97" id="anc_xxi_97"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_97"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_97]</span></a> The emperor convoked -the senate, and deferred to them to decide in what dish it should be -cooked, in order that it might be served whole. The deliberation was -long and stormy; all Rome was in a state of expectancy; and the august -assembly strove to prove itself worthy of the high confidence reposed in -it by Cæsar. At length the illustrious old men were tolerably unanimous -in their idea that the best way would be to make a dish expressly for<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_225" id="page_225"></a>{225}</span> -the fish—since there was none large enough ready-made—and also that a -stove should be constructed vast enough to allow the dish to be placed -commodiously upon it.<a name="anc_xxi_98" id="anc_xxi_98"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_98"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_98]</span></a></p> - -<p>The emperor, the city, and the court applauded the profound wisdom of -this decision; and “<i>le turbot fut mis à la sauce piquante</i>.”<a name="anc_xxi_99" id="anc_xxi_99"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_99"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_99]</span></a></p> - -<p>Aristotle does not mention this fish; but his compatriots esteemed -highly the turbots of Attica.<a name="anc_xxi_100" id="anc_xxi_100"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_100"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_100]</span></a></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>TUNNY.</h3> - -<p>The Greeks greatly praised the tunny fish of Pachynum.<a name="anc_xxi_101" id="anc_xxi_101"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_101"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_101]</span></a> Persons -who prided themselves on their knowledge in the art of good living, eat -only the belly part,<a name="anc_xxi_102" id="anc_xxi_102"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_102"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_102]</span></a> and never touched the remainder.</p> - -<p>The Synopians formerly gained immense sums by the tunny fishery along -their shores,<a name="anc_xxi_103" id="anc_xxi_103"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_103"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_103]</span></a> the effigy of which, perhaps in gratitude, they -stamped on their money. This fish came from Palus Meotides, and passed -thence to Trebizond and Pharnacia, whence it followed the coast of -Sinopus, and, at length, reached Byzantium, where they took nearly all -those which escaped the fisheries of the two first-named -stations.<a name="anc_xxi_104" id="anc_xxi_104"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_104"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_104]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Romans offered tunny fish in sacrifice to Neptune, in order that -that god might deign to prevent the <i>xiphias</i> fish from tearing their -nets, and forbid the too officious dolphins to assist in their -escape.<a name="anc_xxi_105" id="anc_xxi_105"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_105"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_105]</span></a> They sold it at a very good price during the autumn and -winter; but it fetched less in summer because it was thought to be -unwholesome during that season.<a name="anc_xxi_106" id="anc_xxi_106"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_106"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_106]</span></a> The jole and belly were thought -the most delicate parts.<a name="anc_xxi_107" id="anc_xxi_107"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_107"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_107]</span></a> They were either fried or boiled, with -pepper, alisander, cummin, onion, mint, sage, and dates, to which was -added a mixture of honey, vinegar, oil, and mustard.<a name="anc_xxi_108" id="anc_xxi_108"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_108"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_108]</span></a></p> - -<p>Archestratus, who, on account of his gastronomic voyages, was looked -upon as a high authority, asserts that Sicily and the neighbourhood of -Constantinople furnished excellent tunny fish; but that the best were -those from Samos.<a name="anc_xxi_109" id="anc_xxi_109"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_109"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_109]</span></a> These latter were much renowned among the -Greeks, who carefully prepared the entrails, and feasted on this dish. -Athenæus relates, on this subject, a witticism of the poet Dorio, a keen -and caustic spirit of the period of Aristotle and Philip of Macedon. -Being<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_226" id="page_226"></a>{226}</span> at supper with that prince, a guest ridiculously praised a dish -of tunny-fish intestines, just placed on the table. “They are certainly -excellent,” said Doric, “when eaten as I eat them.” “How, then, do you -eat them?” rejoined the gastronomic courtier. “With the firm -determination,” replied the poet, “of thinking of nothing -better.”<a name="anc_xxi_110" id="anc_xxi_110"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_110"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_110]</span></a></p> - -<p>This fish abounds in certain seas, and Pliny avers that it obstructed -the navigation of the Indian Sea to such an extent, that the fleet of -Alexander the Great was obliged to change its course, in order to avoid -this impassable barrier.<a name="anc_xxi_111" id="anc_xxi_111"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_111"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_111]</span></a></p> - -<p>Tunny fish sometimes attain an immense size. Father Cetti tells us, that -some were caught in Sardinia weighing no less than 1,000 lbs., and -sometimes even 1,800 lbs.<a name="anc_xxi_112" id="anc_xxi_112"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_112"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_112]</span></a></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>CONGER-EEL.</h3> - -<p>Near Sicyona, a city of the Peloponnesus,<a name="anc_xxi_113" id="anc_xxi_113"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_113"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_113]</span></a> they formerly caught -conger-eels of such immense size, that it required a waggon drawn by -oxen to carry a single one.<a name="anc_xxi_114" id="anc_xxi_114"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_114"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_114]</span></a> The body, the whole of the head, -and even the intestines<a name="anc_xxi_115" id="anc_xxi_115"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_115"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_115]</span></a> were eaten. This dish, worthy of being -offered by Neptune to his divine colleagues, was capable, like ambrosia, -of bestowing immortality on those who had the good fortune of tasting -it, and the dead would return to life, had it been possible to serve -them with a piece of this exquisite fish.<a name="anc_xxi_116" id="anc_xxi_116"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_116"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_116]</span></a></p> - -<p>These childish exaggerations have not prevented Galen from treating the -conger-eel with very little respect: he affirms, that nothing is more -hard or indigestible.<a name="anc_xxi_117" id="anc_xxi_117"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_117"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_117]</span></a> And, indeed, epicureans of some repute -allowed only the head to appear on their tables;<a name="anc_xxi_118" id="anc_xxi_118"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_118"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_118]</span></a> and then only -at rare intervals, and under the auspices of a relishing sauce which -assured its reception.</p> - -<p>The Romans had still less esteem for this too highly praised fish. -However, sometimes a fried conger-eel occupied on the <i>sigma</i> an obscure -place, in the midst of a seasoning flavoured highly with pepper, -alisander, cummin, wild marjoram, dried onion, and hard yolks of eggs; -with which a skilful hand carefully mixed to the whole, vinegar, sweet -wine, garum, and cooked wine.<a name="anc_xxi_119" id="anc_xxi_119"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_119"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_119]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_227" id="page_227"></a>{227}</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>EEL.</h3> - -<p>In some parts of Egypt the eel was not eaten, because it was thought -indigestible.<a name="anc_xxi_120" id="anc_xxi_120"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_120"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_120]</span></a> In other places it received religious -worship.<a name="anc_xxi_121" id="anc_xxi_121"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_121"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_121]</span></a> They were ornamented, whether they liked it or not, -with silver, gold, and precious stones, and priests daily offered them -the entrails of animals and cheese.<a name="anc_xxi_122" id="anc_xxi_122"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_122"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_122]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Greeks thought highly of eels. “Behold the Helen of feasts!” cried -Eidicastes, at the moment when one was served; “I will be her -Paris!”<a name="anc_xxi_123" id="anc_xxi_123"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_123"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_123]</span></a> and the glutton seized and devoured it immediately.</p> - -<p>Bœotia—where this fish was immolated to the gods<a name="anc_xxi_124" id="anc_xxi_124"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_124"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_124]</span></a>—the -straits of Sicily,<a name="anc_xxi_125" id="anc_xxi_125"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_125"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_125]</span></a> and the Copian lake, furnished eels -remarkable for their delicacy and size;<a name="anc_xxi_126" id="anc_xxi_126"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_126"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_126]</span></a> these were served fried -and enveloped in beet leaves.<a name="anc_xxi_127" id="anc_xxi_127"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_127"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_127]</span></a> They enjoyed a high reputation -among the Sybarites, a choice nation, who would have invented cookery if -the art had not already existed, and among whom a repast was so serious -a matter, that a whole year was not thought too long in order to -meditate upon it and get it ready.<a name="anc_xxi_128" id="anc_xxi_128"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_128"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_128]</span></a></p> - -<p>But Hippocrates did not like the eel, and he forbade it to his patients, -and to persons attacked with a pulmonary affection.<a name="anc_xxi_129" id="anc_xxi_129"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_129"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_129]</span></a> So that -this Queen of Luxury, as Archestrates calls it,<a name="anc_xxi_130" id="anc_xxi_130"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_130"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_130]</span></a> met with as -many enemies as partisans. Egypt adored it, Greece was enamoured of it, -Rome despised it, and the plebeian alone reserved it to the humiliation -in his brutal orgies.<a name="anc_xxi_131" id="anc_xxi_131"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_131"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_131]</span></a></p> - -<p>Apicius, however, has condescended to notice this fish. Mix, says he, -pepper, alisander, parsley seed, dill, and dates; add to this honey, -vinegar, garum, oil, mustard, and cooked wine;<a name="anc_xxi_132" id="anc_xxi_132"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_132"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_132]</span></a> serve this sauce -with the eel.</p> - -<p>Nations have their ages of splendour—viands have their epochs of -celebrity and glory. This one seems to us fast falling into decay, in -spite of some isolated efforts in order to make it reflourish.</p> - -<p>When Rockingham was named member of parliament, he ordered thirteen -barrels of eels to be brought to London, for the banquet he gave on that -occasion.<a name="anc_xxi_133" id="anc_xxi_133"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_133"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_133]</span></a> No one to our knowledge has since prepared so -gigantic a <i>matelote</i>.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_228" id="page_228"></a>{228}</span></p> - -<p>Travellers formerly saw in the Ganges beautiful eels 300 feet -long<a name="anc_xxi_134" id="anc_xxi_134"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_134"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_134]</span></a>—a magnificent species never seen in Europe.</p> - -<p>“The eel, so much despised by the Romans, is rather in favour in several -countries; certain species are much esteemed, that named <i>Guiseau</i>, -among others, deserves the preference it always obtains at -Rouen.”—<span class="smcap">Bosc.</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>PIKE.</h3> - -<p>The pike was very little esteemed by ancient gastronomists, who viewed -it only as an ignoble inhabitant of muddy water, and the implacable -enemy of frogs.<a name="anc_xxi_135" id="anc_xxi_135"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_135"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_135]</span></a> It was a received opinion that this despotic -ruler of ponds lived for several centuries, and it may be correct.</p> - -<p>Among the examples of longevity of this fish, the most remarkable is -that of the pike of <i>kaisers’-lantern</i>, which was nineteen feet long, -weighed 350 lbs., and had lived at least 235 years. It is reported that -the Emperor Barbarossa himself threw it, on the 5th of October, 1262, -into the pond where it was caught in 1497; and that this enormous pike -wore a golden ring, which was made so that it would expand, and on which -was engraved the date when the fish was spawned. Its skeleton was for a -long time preserved at Mannheim.<a name="anc_xxi_136" id="anc_xxi_136"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_136"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_136]</span></a></p> - -<p>The multiplication of pikes would be immense if the spawn and pickrel, -in the first year of their existence, were not the prey of several other -fishes; for it has been calculated that in a female pike of middling -size 184,000 eggs were found.</p> - -<p>“In the north, and particularly in Siberia, the pike is preserved salted -and smoked; the largest only are used, those weighing about two pounds. -When they have been drawn, cleaned, and washed, they are cut in pieces, -stratified with salt, in barrels. A brine is formed in which they are -left for three days, then they are dried or smoked for one month. After -this time they are put in another barrel, with fresh salt, wetted with -vinegar.”—<span class="smcap">Bosc.</span><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_229" id="page_229"></a>{229}</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>CARP.</h3> - -<p>The carp occupied a very honourable rank with the Greeks and Latins, but -only as a fish of the second order.<a name="anc_xxi_137" id="anc_xxi_137"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_137"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_137]</span></a> At Athens, they picked out -the bones and stuffed it with silphium, cheese, salt, and -marjoram.<a name="anc_xxi_138" id="anc_xxi_138"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_138"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_138]</span></a> The Romans boiled it and mixed it with sows’ paps, -fowls’ flesh, fig-peckers, or thrushes; and when the whole was made into -a kind of pulp, they added raw eggs and oil; then they sprinkled it over -with pepper and alisander; after which they poured wine, garum, and -cooked wine over it; and when the culinary combination was completed in -the stewpan, by the assistance of a slow fire, it was then thickened -with flour.<a name="anc_xxi_139" id="anc_xxi_139"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_139"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_139]</span></a></p> - -<p>In several countries it is known at what period the carp was -naturalized. Peter Marshall brought it to England in 1514; Peter Oxe to -Denmark in 1560. A few years after, it was introduced into Holland and -Sweden. The fecundity of this fish is surprising; no less than 621,600 -eggs were found in a carp weighing nine pounds; and it is very -long-lived. Several have been seen in the moats of the castle of -Ponchartrain, which were proved to be 150 years old. Carp are capable of -acquiring considerable dimensions. The most gigantic on record was that -caught at Bisshofs-hause, near Frankfort on the Oder; it weighed 70 -lbs.<a name="anc_xxi_140" id="anc_xxi_140"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_140"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_140]</span></a></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>EEL-POUT.</h3> - -<p>The liver of the eel-pout (also known by the names, <i>lota</i>, <i>lote</i>, and -<i>lotus</i>) is particularly large, and so delicate that a certain Countess -of Beuchlingen squandered a large portion of her income to gratify her -taste for them.<a name="anc_xxi_141" id="anc_xxi_141"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_141"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_141]</span></a> That lady, worthy, by her refined and antique -taste, of the proudest period of Roman extravagance, was, perhaps, not -aware that the most fastidious epicureans of Italy, enthusiastic -admirers of the liver of this fish,<a name="anc_xxi_142" id="anc_xxi_142"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_142"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_142]</span></a> had it served with a sauce -composed of vinegar, grated cheese, and garlic; to which they added -leeks and onions, chopped fine.<a name="anc_xxi_143" id="anc_xxi_143"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_143"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_143]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_230" id="page_230"></a>{230}</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>TROUT.</h3> - -<p>Elian speaks of a fish found in the river Astræus, in -Macedonia,<a name="anc_xxi_144" id="anc_xxi_144"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_144"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_144]</span></a> which Gesner believed to be identical with the -trout. It does not appear, however, that the Greeks knew the real value -and merit of this fish; but on the other hand, the Romans assigned to it -the foremost rank, next to the sturgeon, red mullets, and the sea-eel, -especially when they had been fattened in the thick waters of the Tiber, -on the very spot where the labridans acquired their plumpness and -value.<a name="anc_xxi_145" id="anc_xxi_145"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_145"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_145]</span></a></p> - -<p>The trout was dressed like the preceding fish.</p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>GOLD FISH.</h3> - -<p>This fish, dear to the Greeks,<a name="anc_xxi_146" id="anc_xxi_146"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_146"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_146]</span></a> had the honour of giving its -name to the celebrated icythyophagist, Sergius, who was passionately -fond of it, and who took the name Orata (from <i>Aurata</i>—gold fish), to -preserve in his family the remembrance of his gluttony or of his -affection.<a name="anc_xxi_147" id="anc_xxi_147"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_147"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_147]</span></a> His compatriots, the Romans, highly valued the gold -fish,<a name="anc_xxi_148" id="anc_xxi_148"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_148"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_148]</span></a> and sought with eagerness those which had fed on the -shell fish of the lake of Lucrin<a name="anc_xxi_149" id="anc_xxi_149"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_149"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_149]</span></a>—that precious reservoir -between Baiæ and Cumæ, which never deceived the hopes of the -gastronomist, nor the greedy expectations of the fishermen.<a name="anc_xxi_150" id="anc_xxi_150"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_150"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_150]</span></a></p> - -<p>The gold fish was served with a gravy composed of pepper, alisander, -carrots, wild marjoram, rue, mint, myrtle leaves, and yolk of eggs; -mixed with honey, vinegar, oil, wine, and garum.<a name="anc_xxi_151" id="anc_xxi_151"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_151"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_151]</span></a> The slow -cooking of these various ingredients gave them the required -homogeneousness.</p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>WHITING.</h3> - -<p>The flesh of this <i>gadus</i> is so light that, according to an old French -proverb, the “<i>Merlans mangée ne pèsant non plus dans l’estomac que<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_231" id="page_231"></a>{231}</span> -pendus à la ceinture</i>.”<a name="anc_xxi_152" id="anc_xxi_152"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_152"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_152]</span></a> “Whitings weigh no more when eaten than -when hung to the girdle.” Nevertheless, the Greeks did not think much of -it, and they said that the whiting was only good for those who could not -obtain more delicate fish.<a name="anc_xxi_153" id="anc_xxi_153"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_153"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_153]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Romans, less severe or not quite so particular, cooked their -whitings with a sauce composed as follows:—put with the fish, in a -stewpan, some garum, chopped leeks, cummin, savory, and a sufficient -quantity of cooked wine, and some wine slightly diluted; cook it on a -slow fire.<a name="anc_xxi_154" id="anc_xxi_154"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_154"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_154]</span></a></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>COD FISH.</h3> - -<p>The cod fish supplied the ancients with the most exquisite dish next to -the sturgeon.<a name="anc_xxi_155" id="anc_xxi_155"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_155"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_155]</span></a> The only fault found with it was, that it cost -less than others. The Greek cooks sprinkled it with grated cheese, -moistened with vinegar; then they threw over it a pinch of salt and a -few drops of oil.<a name="anc_xxi_156" id="anc_xxi_156"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_156"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_156]</span></a> Persons with delicate stomachs did not -scruple to partake of this aliment, which Galen warranted as being -excellent.<a name="anc_xxi_157" id="anc_xxi_157"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_157"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_157]</span></a></p> - -<p>The average size of this fish is about three feet in length; but some -are found of ten feet. The common weight is fifteen pounds, and some -have been seen weighing 60lbs. Leuwenhoek has said that 9,344,000 eggs -had been found in one fish. It is probable he made a mistake, as a cod -fish of our days, weighing 50lbs., produced only 3,686,000 eggs—a -number sufficiently prodigious, and which shows pretty well its great -fecundity.<a name="anc_xxi_158" id="anc_xxi_158"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_158"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_158]</span></a></p> - -<p>It is supposed that the discovery of the great and small banks of cod -fish is due to the Basque fishermen, who arrived there in pursuit of -whales, one hundred years before Columbus’ voyage. Others give that -honour to James Cartier, a native of Falkland Islands.</p> - -<p>“As early as the 14th century, the English and the inhabitants of -Amsterdam busied themselves with cod fishing; and later, the Irish, -Norwegians, French, and Spaniards competed with them more or less -successfully. In 1533, Francis I. having sent J. Verrazzano, and -afterwards, Jacques Cartier, to explore the neighbourhood of -Newfoundland, the French fishermen followed them, and brought back also -this fish from those distant countries in the beginning of the 16th -century.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_232" id="page_232"></a>{232}</span></p> - -<p>“Man annually seizes upon a prodigious quantity of cods, and were it not -for the immense extent of the means of reproduction allowed to it by -nature, the species for a long time past would have been annihilated. It -is even hardly conceived how it has been possible to preserve it; for it -is well known, that as early as 1368, the inhabitants of Amsterdam had -brought up fishermen on the coast of Sweden; and, in the first quarter -of 1792, according to a report presented to the minister, Roland, at the -National Convention, that, from the ports of France only, 210 vessels, -forming together 191,158 tons, went out for the cod fisheries; and that -every year more than 10,000 vessels of all nations employed at this -trade, throw in the commercial world more than 40,000,000 of salted and -dried cod. If we add to this enumeration the havoc made among the -legions of these fishes by the great <i>squales</i>, sharks, and others, -besides the destruction of a multitude of young ones by the other -inhabitants of the seas and sea birds, together with the myriads of eggs -destroyed by accident, it really is extraordinary to see this fish in so -great a quantity now; but who can wonder, since each female can every -year give birth to more than 9,000,000 of young ones.”—<span class="smcap">Dr. Cloquet.</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>PERCH.</h3> - -<p>The Greeks were acquainted with the perch.<a name="anc_xxi_159" id="anc_xxi_159"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_159"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_159]</span></a> Diocles used to give -the flesh to the sick;<a name="anc_xxi_160" id="anc_xxi_160"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_160"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_160]</span></a> Xenocrates extolled those from the -Rhine;<a name="anc_xxi_161" id="anc_xxi_161"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_161"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_161]</span></a> and Ausonius, the poet, has sung the praises of those -fed in the Moselle.<a name="anc_xxi_162" id="anc_xxi_162"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_162"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_162]</span></a></p> - -<p>With the Romans, this fish obtained a renown almost equal to that -bestowed on the trout; and all eyes bespoke its welcome at supper, when -it appeared on the table, covered with a seasoning in which pepper, -alisander, cummin, and onions were artistically combined with stoned -Damascus plums—thanks to the clever use of wine, vinegar, sweet wine, -oil, and cooked wine. This ingenious amalgamation acquired over a slow -fire the requisite consistence and cohesion.<a name="anc_xxi_163" id="anc_xxi_163"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_163"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_163]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_233" id="page_233"></a>{233}</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>SCATE.</h3> - -<p>The ancients liked or disliked scate, according to the places where they -eat it. So, now, this fish is rejected in Sardinia, and thought -excellent in London and Paris.<a name="anc_xxi_164" id="anc_xxi_164"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_164"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_164]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Greek gastronomists of fashion sometimes partook of the back of the -scate;<a name="anc_xxi_165" id="anc_xxi_165"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_165"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_165]</span></a> the remainder seemed unworthy of their attention, and a -certain poet maintains that a piece of stuff, boiled, offers to the -palate a flavour quite as agreeable.<a name="anc_xxi_166" id="anc_xxi_166"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_166"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_166]</span></a></p> - -<p>Italian gluttony always gave a cold reception to this dish, which they -owed to the Greek cooks, and which their magiric writers have not -sufficiently studied.</p> - -<p>Aristotle knew of two species of scate;<a name="anc_xxi_167" id="anc_xxi_167"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_167"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_167]</span></a> Pliny speaks of -them;<a name="anc_xxi_168" id="anc_xxi_168"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_168"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_168]</span></a> Lacépède enumerates thirty-nine species.<a name="anc_xxi_169" id="anc_xxi_169"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_169"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_169]</span></a></p> - -<p>That celebrated naturalist, Buffon’s pupil and competitor, assures us -that several eastern nations consider the smoke arising from the eggs of -scates, thrown on burning coals, and inhaled by the mouth and nostrils, -as an excellent remedy against intermittent fever.<a name="anc_xxi_170" id="anc_xxi_170"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_170"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_170]</span></a> It would -cost but little to make the experiment.</p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>SALMON.</h3> - -<p>It is reported that the salmon was thus named on account of its frequent -leaping.<a name="anc_xxi_171" id="anc_xxi_171"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_171"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_171]</span></a> It has been sung by Ausonius.<a name="anc_xxi_172" id="anc_xxi_172"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_172"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_172]</span></a> Its absence -left a chasm in the delights of Greece, and it was late before it became -known in Rome. Pliny is the first of Latin authors who name it.<a name="anc_xxi_173" id="anc_xxi_173"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_173"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_173]</span></a> -Ichthyophagy will cherish the memory of this laborious author. He speaks -with praise of the salmon taken in the Garonne and Dordogne. He extols -those of the Rhine, but he seems to give a decided preference to those -magnificent fishes covered with a silvery mail, which disport in the -limpid waters of that picturesque and beautiful Aquitaine.<a name="anc_xxi_174" id="anc_xxi_174"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_174"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_174]</span></a><a name="anc_l" id="anc_l"></a><a href="#footnote_l"><span class="fnanchor">[L]</span></a></p> - -<p>Two centuries ago, there was such a great quantity of salmon taken in -the rivers of Scotland, that, instead of being considered a delicate<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_234" id="page_234"></a>{234}</span> -dish, it served commonly as food for servants, who it is said, -stipulated sometimes, that they should not be obliged to eat that -common, tasteless aliment more than five times per week.<a name="anc_xxi_175" id="anc_xxi_175"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_175"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_175]</span></a></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>SEPIA, <span class="smcap">or</span>, CUTTLE-FISH.</h3> - -<p>Pliny has extolled the constancy of conjugal affection in the -cuttle-fish, and the courage with which the male defends his companion -in the moment of danger.<a name="anc_xxi_176" id="anc_xxi_176"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_176"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_176]</span></a> The poet Persius describes its flight, -protected by the thick, black liquid with which it blinds its enemies. -Apicius, struck more by its succulent qualities, opens this fish, -empties it, and stuffs it with cooked brains, to which he adds raw eggs -and pepper; he then boils it in a seasoning of pepper, alisander, -parsley seed, and cooked wine, mixed with honey, wine, and -garum.<a name="anc_xxi_177" id="anc_xxi_177"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_177"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_177]</span></a> Thus prepared, the cuttle-fish passed at Rome as an -estimable dish, and which might be offered at an unpretending repast.</p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>SWORDFISH.</h3> - -<p>The Greeks were fond of the swordfish, and often partook of it,<a name="anc_xxi_178" id="anc_xxi_178"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_178"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_178]</span></a> -with a sauce of which oil was the basis, and with which were mixed yolks -of eggs, leeks, garlic, and cheese.<a name="anc_xxi_179" id="anc_xxi_179"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_179"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_179]</span></a> The Romans thought very -little of this fish, and prayed Neptune to send it far from their nets.</p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>SHAD.</h3> - -<p>The shad was caught during the summer, and sold to the people,<a name="anc_xxi_180" id="anc_xxi_180"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_180"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_180]</span></a> -who boiled it and dished it up with strong herbs and oil. This plebeian -fish was excluded from all respectable banquets.<a name="anc_y" id="anc_y"></a><a href="#footnote_y"><span class="fnanchor">[Y]</span></a></p> - -<p>“Modern taste has allowed this estimable fish to re-appear on the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_235" id="page_235"></a>{235}</span> -table, where it is always seen with pleasure. This fish is caught in -most of the great rivers of Europe, Asia, and northern Africa.”—<span class="smcap">Bosc.</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>RHOMBO, <span class="smcap">or</span>, RHOMBUS.</h3> - -<p>The rhombo claimed the attention of the discriminating ichthyophagists -of Rome by the delicacy of its flesh, and few fish would have been -preferred to it had it not been feared that it rendered digestion -difficult.<a name="anc_xxi_181" id="anc_xxi_181"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_181"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_181]</span></a> Some intrepid stomachs, however, greeted this dish -without much repugnance when presented to them fried and sprinkled with -pepper, in the midst of a seasoning in which pepper, cummin, coriander, -benzoin, wild marjoram, and rue, heightened by a little vinegar, were -mixed with dates, honey, cooked wine, and oil. This boiling sauce was -poured over the rhombo, but not before it had been enriched with -garum,<a name="anc_xxi_182" id="anc_xxi_182"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_182"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_182]</span></a> which we had almost forgotten—that inevitable brine -which the ancient magiric genius placed everywhere, and whose prodigious -renown ought to have preserved it from oblivion.</p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>MUGIL.</h3> - -<p>This fish, singular instrument of a punishment invented by -Rome,<a name="anc_xxi_183" id="anc_xxi_183"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_183"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_183]</span></a> entered into the bill of fare of a fashionable supper, -but one without that magnificence which a feast of parade exacts. It was -prepared with pepper, alisander, cummin, onion, mint, rue, sage, and -dates, mixed with honey, vinegar, mustard, and oil.<a name="anc_xxi_184" id="anc_xxi_184"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_184"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_184]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Greeks also esteemed mugils, and gave a preference to those sold by -the fishermen of Scyathus.<a name="anc_xxi_185" id="anc_xxi_185"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_185"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_185]</span></a></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>MACKEREL.</h3> - -<p>Commentators do not agree on the origin of this word. Scaliger, who -perceived Greek in everything, says it is derived from <i>makarios</i>, -“happy.” But, then, in what does the felicity of this fish consist? The<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_236" id="page_236"></a>{236}</span> -old writer Belon, more wise in his conjecture, thinks this word comes -from the Latin, <i>macularelli</i>, “little spots,” because it is marked on -the back with black stripes.<a name="anc_xxi_186" id="anc_xxi_186"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_186"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_186]</span></a></p> - -<p>Let the etymology be what it may, the epicurean cares very little about -it. Mackerel was much liked in Greece, where it was believed to be a -native of the Hellespont;<a name="anc_xxi_187" id="anc_xxi_187"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_187"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_187]</span></a> and throughout Italy, where it was -supposed to come originally from Spain.<a name="anc_xxi_188" id="anc_xxi_188"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_188"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_188]</span></a></p> - -<p>It is very probable that from mackerel was obtained one of the varieties -of garum, known by the name of <i>garum sociorum</i>. Further on, we intend -to devote a special chapter to the subject of this celebrated condiment.</p> - -<p>“Neither the size nor the weapons of mackerel make them formidable; they -have, however, a violent appetite, and on account, perhaps, of the -confidence they feel in the number of each shoal, they are bold and -voracious, frequently attack fishes larger and stronger than themselves, -and even dart with blind audacity upon the fishermen who bathe where -they happen to be. Thus Pontoppidan relates that a sailor, bathing in -the port of Carcule, in Norway, missing one of his companions, saw him a -few minutes afterwards dead, the body mangled and covered with a -multitude of mackerel, tearing his remains to pieces.”—<span class="smcap">Dr. Cloquet.</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>HADDOCK.</h3> - -<p>The haddock, like the sturgeon, was surrounded with the ridiculous -honours of an almost divine pomp.<a name="anc_xxi_189" id="anc_xxi_189"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_189"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_189]</span></a> It was served interwoven with -garlands, and trumpeters accompanied the slaves who, with uncovered -heads and foreheads crowned with flowers, brought to the guests this -dish, the merit of which was, perhaps, exaggerated by capricious -fancies.<a name="anc_xxi_190" id="anc_xxi_190"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_190"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_190]</span></a></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>TENCH.</h3> - -<p>Ausonius, who lived in the 4th century of the Christian era, is the -first who has spoken of the tench, in his poem of the -“<i>Mostella</i>.”<a name="anc_xxi_191" id="anc_xxi_191"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_191"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_191]</span></a> It was abandoned to the common people, who alone -feasted on it.<a name="anc_xxi_192" id="anc_xxi_192"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_192"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_192]</span></a> This fish, long the victim of an unjust disdain, -ultimately conquered from the great that esteem which they at first -refused to it.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_237" id="page_237"></a>{237}</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>DRAGON WEAVER.</h3> - -<p>The dragon weaver traversed unseen the long and brilliant gastronomic -period of the Romans. Greece rendered it more justice;<a name="anc_xxi_193" id="anc_xxi_193"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_193"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_193]</span></a> but its -too modest qualities were not able to preserve it from forgetfulness and -indifference.</p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>LOLIGO.</h3> - -<p>At Rome the loligo, a species of cuttle-fish, was sometimes served with -pepper and rue, mixed with garum, honey, sweet wine boiled, and a few -drops of oil.<a name="anc_xxi_194" id="anc_xxi_194"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_194"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_194]</span></a></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>SOLE.</h3> - -<p>This fish, which the Greeks caught on the coast,<a name="anc_xxi_195" id="anc_xxi_195"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_195"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_195]</span></a> was much -sought after on account of the delicacy of its nourishing and light -flesh.<a name="anc_xxi_196" id="anc_xxi_196"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_196"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_196]</span></a> The flounder, the brill, the diamond and Dutch plaice, -which, together with the sole, were known under the general name of -<i>passeres</i>, enjoyed an equal esteem, and had attributed to them the same -qualities.</p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>ANGEL-FISH.</h3> - -<p>In Holland there are angel fish of enormous size;<a name="anc_xxi_197" id="anc_xxi_197"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_197"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_197]</span></a> and -Aldrovandus relates that some have been seen which weighed as much as -160 lbs.<a name="anc_xxi_198" id="anc_xxi_198"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_198"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_198]</span></a> In the time of this naturalist the common people did -not eat them very willingly.</p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>FILE-FISH.</h3> - -<p>The flesh of this species of the <i>bulistes</i> is only good when fried, -according to Marcgrave. Columella thinks much of it,<a name="anc_xxi_199" id="anc_xxi_199"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_199"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_199]</span></a> and Pliny -ranks it among the <i>saxatiles</i>, the most esteemed by -connoisseurs.<a name="anc_xxi_200" id="anc_xxi_200"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_200"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_200]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_238" id="page_238"></a>{238}</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>PILCHARD.</h3> - -<p>Among the Greeks this fish was considered only as fit for the people. -Those from the environs of Phaleres were much esteemed, when left only -an instant in boiling oil.<a name="anc_xxi_201" id="anc_xxi_201"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_201"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_201]</span></a> The Romans, who gave them the first -rank among salt fish,<a name="anc_xxi_202" id="anc_xxi_202"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_202"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_202]</span></a> stuffed them, in order to render them -better, in the following manner:—<a name="anc_xxi_203" id="anc_xxi_203"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_203"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_203]</span></a></p> - -<p>They bruised pennyroyal, cummin, pepper, mint, and pine nuts; these they -mixed with honey, and with this paste they filled the anchovy, after -having carefully boned them. They then wrapped them in paper,<a name="anc_m" id="anc_m"></a><a href="#footnote_m"><span class="fnanchor">[M]</span></a> and -cooked them in a <i>bain-marie</i>, or saucepan, immersed in boiling water. -They were served with oil, dregs of fish-brine, and cooked -wine.<a name="anc_xxi_204" id="anc_xxi_204"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_204"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_204]</span></a></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>LOACH.</h3> - -<p>The Greeks liked loaches,<a name="anc_xxi_205" id="anc_xxi_205"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_205"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_205]</span></a> but many abstained from eating them, -lest the Syrian goddess, the protectress of these fishes, should gnaw -their legs, cover their bodies with ulcers, and devour their -liver.<a name="anc_xxi_206" id="anc_xxi_206"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_206"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_206]</span></a></p> - -<p>The inhabitants of Italy, free from this singular superstition, cleaned -the loaches, left them some time in oil, then placed them in a saucepan -with some more oil, garum, wine, and several bunches of rue and wild -marjoram. Then these bunches were thrown away, and the fish was -sprinkled with pepper at the moment of serving.<a name="anc_xxi_207" id="anc_xxi_207"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_207"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_207]</span></a></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>GUDGEON.</h3> - -<p>The gudgeon—thought excellent by every one, but which no one -mentions—appeared with honour in the most magnificent repasts at<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_239" id="page_239"></a>{239}</span> -Athens.<a name="anc_xxi_208" id="anc_xxi_208"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_208"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_208]</span></a> At Rome, it was served fried, at the beginning of -supper;<a name="anc_xxi_209" id="anc_xxi_209"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_209"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_209]</span></a> and it disposed the guests to attack boldly the -culinary <i>corps de réserve</i>, which took up the position as soon as the -skirmish with the gudgeon was over.</p> - -<p>“This fish is in abundance, principally in France and Germany; it is -very good, and easily digested. They are served either fried or stewed; -when done as last-mentioned, they must be drawn and wiped dry, put in a -flat stewpan with butter, salt, pepper, good red wine, spring onions, -mushrooms, shalots, thyme, bay leaves and basil—these last plants -chopped very fine; stew the whole a quarter of an hour, and -serve.”—<span class="smcap">Bosc.</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>HERRING.</h3> - -<p>Herrings were unknown in Greece and Rome. Bosc says it is a manna that -nature doubtless reserved for the northern nations, which they, however, -have only turned to account in modern times.</p> - -<p>The first herring fishery known in Europe was on the coast of Scotland; -but that nation knew not how to profit by the treasure that the sea -offered them. All the Scotch historians mention this fishery, the -produce of which was bought by the Dutch. This transaction took place -under the reign of King Alfred, about the year 836.</p> - -<p>After some time the Scotch quarrelled with the Dutch, who undertook the -herring fishery themselves. As they caught a great many more than they -could consume, they salted them, and sold them in foreign countries. -Such was the origin of that immense commerce, which had its rise, -according to Eidous, about the year 1320, a short time after the Teutons -had established themselves in the Baltic.</p> - -<p>It is said that we owe the art of salting and barreling herrings to a -Dutch fisherman, named William Beuckels, who died in 1449. The Dutch -nation raised a mausoleum to his memory; and it is asserted that Charles -V., who visited it in 1536, eat a herring upon it to render homage to -the author of a precious discovery.</p> - -<p>In the year 1610, Sir Walter Raleigh gave a statistical account of the -commerce carried on by the Dutch in Russia, Germany, Flanders, and -France, with the herrings caught on the coasts of England, Scotland,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_240" id="page_240"></a>{240}</span> -and Ireland. The sale of this fish amounted, in one year, to the sum of -£2,650,000.</p> - -<p>It has been erroneously thought that the herring was the <i>halec</i>, or, -<i>alec</i>, of the Romans. This name was given by them to a kind of -brine;<a name="anc_xxi_210" id="anc_xxi_210"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_210"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_210]</span></a> it was not the name of any particular fish.</p> - -<p>There are two prevalent methods of preserving herrings, and fishmongers -sell them under the denominations of salted herrings and red herrings.</p> - -<p>The process employed for the first-named is as follows:—</p> - -<p>As soon as the herring is out of the sea, a sailor opens it, removes the -gills and the entrails, washes the fish in salt water, and puts it into -a brine thick enough for it to float. After fifteen or eighteen hours, -it is taken out of the brine and laid in a tub with a quantity of salt. -It remains in this tub until the port is reached. There the herrings are -placed in barrels, where they are artistically arranged one over -another, with fresh salt between each layer. Care is always taken to -employ fresh brine.</p> - -<p>Red herrings are prepared by leaving the fish at least twenty-four hours -in the brine; and when they are taken out, little twigs are run through -the gills, and then they are suspended in a kind of chimney, made on -purpose, under which a small fire is made with wood, which produces a -good deal of smoke. The herrings remain in this state until they are -sufficiently dry, that is to say, about twenty-four hours.</p> - -<p>In Sweden and Norway they are somewhat differently prepared. The -Icelanders and Greenlanders simply dry them in the air.<a name="anc_xxi_211" id="anc_xxi_211"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_211"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_211]</span></a></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>ANCHOVY.</h3> - -<p>Sonnini thinks that garum was simply composed of anchovies cooked and -crushed in their brine, to which was added a little vinegar, and chopped -or pounded parsley.</p> - -<p>The fishermen of the Mediterranean and the coasts of the ocean salt -almost all the anchovies they take. They cut off their heads, which are -thought to be bitter, take out the entrails, wash them in soft or salt -water, and stratify them in barrels with salt. The fishermen of -Provence<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_241" id="page_241"></a>{241}</span> think it is essential to the good preservation of anchovies -that the salt be red; and, consequently, they colour it with ochreous -earths. Moreover, these fishermen do not change the brine which is -formed in the barrels: they simply fill them up when any is lost by -evaporation or leakage.</p> - -<p>The fishermen of the north only use bay salt, and they change the brine -three times, whence it results that their anchovies keep much longer; -but the greater acridness of those which have remained in the same brine -is esteemed a good quality by most consumers, and therefore they are -more sought after.</p> - -<p>In sea ports, anchovies are eaten either fried or roasted. Salted -anchovies are to be preferred when they are new, firm, white outside, -vermilion coloured inside, and free from all putrid smell. After having -taken out the backbone, and washed them well, cooks commonly make use of -anchovies in salads, and to flavour sauces made with butter, cullis, &c. -In this case they are employed raw.</p> - -<p>They are not unfrequently fried, after having been deprived of the salt, -and surrounded with an appropriate paste. Some persons toast slices of -bread, cover them with strips of anchovies, and serve them with a sauce -composed of oil, vinegar, whole pepper, parsley, scallions, and -eschalots, all in abundant quantities, and chopped very small.<a name="anc_xxi_212" id="anc_xxi_212"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_212"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_212]</span></a></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>SHELL FISH.</h3> - -<p>The Emperor Caligula had made immense preparations to invade Great -Britain. He set off, and when he arrived in sight of that Albion he was -going to attack, he commanded his troops to form in close array along -the shore, the trumpets to sound the charge, and sat himself on the -quarter-deck of his galley, from whence he might have directed the -action. For a short time he contemplated his warlike cohorts, and having -thus gratified his pride, he ordered his troops to pick up the shells -which abounded on the strand, and returned to Rome, where he showed the -“<i>spolia opima</i>” the ocean had delivered up to him. Caligula expected to -receive the honours of a triumph; but the senate,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_242" id="page_242"></a>{242}</span> having some sense of -modesty left, would not award them, and the implacable Cæsar, from that -moment, swore the ruin of the senators.<a name="anc_xxi_213" id="anc_xxi_213"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_213"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_213]</span></a></p> - -<p>The inhabitants of Greece and those of Italy thought a great deal of -shell fish, which was always served at the beginning of the repast, just -as they came from the sea: others cooked under the ashes, or fried. In -most cases they were seasoned with cummin and pepper.<a name="anc_xxi_214" id="anc_xxi_214"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_214"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_214]</span></a></p> - -<p>The purveyors of fish in Rome gave the preference to those taken in the -lake of Lucrinus.<a name="anc_xxi_215" id="anc_xxi_215"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_215"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_215]</span></a> The Greeks esteemed those from the promontory -of Polarea.<a name="anc_xxi_216" id="anc_xxi_216"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_216"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_216]</span></a></p> - -<p>The city of Baiæ, in Campania, celebrated for its charming position, and -the unreserved lax manners of its inhabitants, was not less renowned for -its culinary labours, and the nicety which presided over their joyful -banquets. Apicius has left us the recipe of a most exquisite stew, -<i>emphractum</i>, which the epicureans of Rome often went to degust among -their rivals, the Campanian gastronomists.</p> - -<p>Cut up oysters, muscles, and sea-hedgehogs; let the pieces be rather -small; put them into a stewpan with pine almonds, fried and chopped, -some parsley, rue, pepper, coriander, and cummin; add, with proper care -and discretion, some cooked wine, garum, and oil; cover, and boil the -whole for a long time on a slow fire.<a name="anc_xxi_217" id="anc_xxi_217"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_217"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_217]</span></a></p> - -<p>We will point out the shell fish most in vogue in Italy, and for which -the seasoning was generally composed of a mixture of pepper, parsley, -dried mint, alisander, a great quantity of cummin, and a little of the -decoction of spikenard.<a name="anc_xxi_218" id="anc_xxi_218"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_218"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_218]</span></a></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>OYSTER.</h3> - -<p>The pontiffs of pagan Rome, men of exquisite delicacy and matured taste, -caused oysters to be served at every repast.<a name="anc_xxi_219" id="anc_xxi_219"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_219"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_219]</span></a> This little piece -of epicurism was very expensive, and it was necessary for these grave -personages to carry the whole of the devotion which characterized them -in their love of good cheer to the highest degree, to dare eat of a dish -still uncommon a century before the Christian era. At this epoch a -<i>borriche</i> (a sort of basket) of oysters was worth one hundred sesterces -(£9).<a name="anc_xxi_220" id="anc_xxi_220"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_220"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_220]</span></a> It is unnecessary to remark that the poor never tasted -them.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_243" id="page_243"></a>{243}</span></p> - -<p>The Greeks and Romans, like ourselves, were remarkably fond of this -delicious shell fish, and eat them (French fashion) at the beginning of -a banquet.<a name="anc_xxi_221" id="anc_xxi_221"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_221"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_221]</span></a> For this reason Athenian epicures called oysters -“the gastronomic prelude to the supper.”<a name="anc_xxi_222" id="anc_xxi_222"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_222"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_222]</span></a> They were often served -raw,<a name="anc_xxi_223" id="anc_xxi_223"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_223"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_223]</span></a> and were then dexterously opened by a slave on the -table,<a name="anc_xxi_224" id="anc_xxi_224"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_224"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_224]</span></a> in presence of the guests, whose experienced eyes -greedily sought the light purple net which, according to them, surrounds -the fattest and best.<a name="anc_xxi_225" id="anc_xxi_225"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_225"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_225]</span></a></p> - -<p>The inhabitants of Italy preferred large oysters,<a name="anc_xxi_226" id="anc_xxi_226"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_226"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_226]</span></a> and exacted -that this dainty manna of the sea<a name="anc_xxi_227" id="anc_xxi_227"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_227"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_227]</span></a> should be always fresh and -abundant at their feasts.<a name="anc_xxi_228" id="anc_xxi_228"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_228"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_228]</span></a> This displayed wisdom on their part: -this delightful fish excites the appetite and facilitates -digestion.<a name="anc_xxi_229" id="anc_xxi_229"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_229"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_229]</span></a> To add to its delicate flavour, the “Roman club of -epicureans,” a useful association, which modern Europe envies antiquity, -caused to be sent from Spain, at a vast expense, that precious -garum,<a name="anc_xxi_230" id="anc_xxi_230"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_230"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_230]</span></a> the recipe of which seems to have been lost, and the -condiment itself forgotten by the whole of the Peninsula.</p> - -<p>The magiric genius of Rome did not hesitate to demonstrate that oysters -do not form an exception to the law of perfectibility which governs all -beings, and that it is possible to render their flesh more succulent and -delicate by transporting them from their damp cradle into reservoirs -exposed to the mild influence of the sun.<a name="anc_xxi_231" id="anc_xxi_231"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_231"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_231]</span></a> Sergius Orata or, -perhaps, Fulvius Hirpinus, was the first who received this happy -inspiration. He caused to be constructed, near Pouzzole, a short time -before the civil war of Pompey, a fishpond, where be stowed oysters, -which he fattened with paste and cooked wine worked into the consistence -of honey<a name="anc_xxi_232" id="anc_xxi_232"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_232"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_232]</span></a>—<i>sapa et farre</i>. This worthy Roman enriched himself -by the sale of them,<a name="anc_xxi_233" id="anc_xxi_233"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_233"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_233]</span></a> and bequeathed a name to posterity—a -two-fold happiness for the gastronomist Fulvius, whose good fortune the -poet Homer did not partake.</p> - -<p>Apicius esteemed highly oysters from the lake of Lucrinus, from Brindes, -and Abydos, and studied deeply the succulent qualities of this shell -fish. He knew how to preserve them fat, fresh, and alive, during long -and fatiguing journeys; and, thanks to a delicate attention on the part -of this immortal <i>bon vivant</i>, the great Trajan was enabled to regale -himself with oysters sent from Rome while carrying on a distant war -against the Parthians.<a name="anc_xxi_234" id="anc_xxi_234"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_234"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_234]</span></a> This present of the king of epicureans -to the master of the world was worthy of both the giver and receiver, -but it completed the ruin of the generous Apicius.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_244" id="page_244"></a>{244}</span></p> - -<p>The Roman ladies shared their husbands’ taste, and eagerly partook of -oysters from the lake of Lucrinus, brought into fashion by Sergius -Orata, and when their fatigued stomachs struggled painfully with -gluttony, this delicacy soon obtained an easy triumph by disposing the -appetite to fresh exertions. The means of defence, however, were not -very formidable; sometimes a little warm and limpid water—oftener a -dazzling plume from the bird of Juno—hastened the struggle, and, -without effort, decided the victory.<a name="anc_xxi_235" id="anc_xxi_235"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_235"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_235]</span></a> This ingenious method was -very much relished by polyphagists, and the Emperor Vitellius -particularly honoured it.<a name="anc_xxi_236" id="anc_xxi_236"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_236"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_236]</span></a></p> - -<p>Cape Pelorus furnished the Greeks with highly prized oysters,<a name="anc_xxi_237" id="anc_xxi_237"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_237"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_237]</span></a> -which were eaten alone, fried, stewed, or nicely dressed with -marsh-mallows, dock-leaves, and with some kind of fish.<a name="anc_xxi_238" id="anc_xxi_238"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_238"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_238]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Romans at length became disgusted with those found on the coasts of -Italy, or in the Dardanelles; an instinct of greediness caused them to -prefer oysters from the Atlantic ocean, and especially from the shores -of Armorica, now called Britany.<a name="anc_xxi_239" id="anc_xxi_239"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_239"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_239]</span></a> Bordeaux supplied imperial -tables, and this high distinction is sufficient for its praise.<a name="anc_xxi_240" id="anc_xxi_240"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_240"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_240]</span></a></p> - -<p>It may not be useless to remark here, that no sooner had Ausonius -praised this fish in his lines than it was forgotten, and did not -re-appear till the 17th century on the tables of distinguished -personages. May our descendants be more just than our forefathers.</p> - -<p>At Rome oysters were served with a seasoning of pepper and alisander, -mixed with the yolks of eggs, vinegar, garum, oil, wine, and a little -honey.<a name="anc_xxi_241" id="anc_xxi_241"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_241"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_241]</span></a></p> - -<p>They were preserved in a vase smeared with pitch, washed with vinegar, -and hermetically closed.<a name="anc_xxi_242" id="anc_xxi_242"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_242"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_242]</span></a></p> - -<p>“Oysters of a fine quality are generally of easy digestion, but not very -nourishing, particularly when eaten raw. They are sought for to open the -appetite, which is the case, owing to the nature of the water, agreeably -salted, contained in them. Some mention is made of persons who can eat -from fifteen to twenty dozen without being ill. It is not the same when -cooked; then they become hard, more tough, and, consequently, -indigestible. They are also eaten pickled with vinegar and sweet herbs. -In this state they are sent to countries distant from the sea, piled up -one upon the other, without the shell, in small barrels.”—<span class="smcap">De -Blainville.</span><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_245" id="page_245"></a>{245}</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>SEA-HEDGEHOG.</h3> - -<p>Under this denomination were classed all animals, more or less -orbicular, whose envelope bristles with calcareous points, on which -account they were compared to hedgehogs.</p> - -<p>The Greeks thought them delicious when caught at the full moon,<a name="anc_xxi_243" id="anc_xxi_243"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_243"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_243]</span></a> -and prepared with vinegar, sweet cooked wine, parsley, and -mint.<a name="anc_xxi_244" id="anc_xxi_244"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_244"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_244]</span></a> Oxymel often replaced vinegar.<a name="anc_xxi_245" id="anc_xxi_245"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_245"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_245]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Romans also esteemed highly this dish, which was recommended to -sluggish appetites under the auspices of the faculty;<a name="anc_xxi_246" id="anc_xxi_246"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_246"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_246]</span></a> and -Apicius furnished the following recipe for the preparation of it:—</p> - -<p>“Procure a new saucepan,” thus says the great master, “place in it a -little oil, garum, sweet wine, and pepper. When the mixture begins to -boil, stuff the sea hedgehogs, then submit them to the action of a slow -fire; add a large quantity of pepper, and serve.”<a name="anc_xxi_247" id="anc_xxi_247"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_247"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_247]</span></a></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>MUSSEL.</h3> - -<p>The two great nations of antiquity have granted uncommon praise to -mussels, and partook of them at their most sumptuous feasts. At the -wedding repast of the graceful Hebe, Jupiter wished the inhabitants of -Olympus to exchange for this shell fish their celestial though -monotonous ambrosia.<a name="anc_xxi_248" id="anc_xxi_248"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_248"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_248]</span></a> Epicharmus, who records the fact, does not -inform us with what sauce the <i>chef de cuisine</i> of the gods dressed the -flesh of those mussels. The reader must thus content himself with the -seasoning invented by simple mortals, and which appeared good to them. -It was composed of a suitable mixture of pepper, alisander, parsley, -mint, with a quantity of cummin seed, a little honey, vinegar, and -garum.<a name="anc_xxi_249" id="anc_xxi_249"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_249"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_249]</span></a> With this mixture they covered the boiled and widely -opened mussels, and the guests found it impossible to satiate themselves -with this dish, so much more digestible and nourishing than -oysters.<a name="anc_xxi_250" id="anc_xxi_250"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_250"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_250]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_246" id="page_246"></a>{246}</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>SCALLOP.</h3> - -<p>The effeminate inhabitants of Tarentum, the abode of luxury, delighted -in good living, and boasted of possessing the finest scallops of -Campania, and of the whole empire.<a name="anc_xxi_251" id="anc_xxi_251"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_251"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_251]</span></a> The infallible authority of -this voluptuous city in matters of taste gave a surprising vogue to this -fish. Rome, and all the population of Italy, believed it was forced to -eat the scallops of Tarentum prepared with oysters, and at other times -with mussels.</p> - -<p>It now remains to be mentioned that some kinds of <i>testacea</i> appeared -worthy of the reputation they acquired among the ancients.</p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>TORTOISE.</h3> - -<p>The Greeks and Latins speak with admiration of the enormous size of -certain tortoises in their time, the whole species of which were -comprised under the generic word <i>testudo</i>.<a name="anc_xxi_252" id="anc_xxi_252"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_252"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_252]</span></a> The Indian Sea -produced some so large, that the shell of one only amply served to roof -a comfortable and elegant cottage.<a name="anc_xxi_253" id="anc_xxi_253"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_253"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_253]</span></a> The inhabitants of the -shores of the Red Sea never troubled themselves with building sloops; -large shells of tortoises spared them the trouble, by supplying them -with charming little barks, which lightly floated on the water.<a name="anc_xxi_254" id="anc_xxi_254"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_254"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_254]</span></a> -And, lastly, in the Ganges, tortoise shells were found, capable of -containing no less than 20 <i>amphoræ</i>, or about 560 pints.<a name="anc_xxi_255" id="anc_xxi_255"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_255"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_255]</span></a></p> - -<p>The inhabitants of the Peloponnesus did the tortoise the signal honour -of representing its image on their money.<a name="anc_xxi_256" id="anc_xxi_256"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_256"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_256]</span></a> The blood cured -diseases of the eye,<a name="anc_xxi_257" id="anc_xxi_257"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_257"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_257]</span></a> and the flesh—in great request—was -thought excellent eating. It was cut into pieces of a middling size, and -placed in a saucepan with pepper, rue, and scallions, crushed in the -same mortar; over this was poured honey, garum, raisin wine, common -wine, and a small quantity of good oil. At the moment of ebullition, the -whole was thickened with flour.<a name="anc_xxi_258" id="anc_xxi_258"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_258"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_258]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_247" id="page_247"></a>{247}</span></p> - -<p>Sometimes the tortoise was boiled, and covered with a seasoning, for -which the following is the recipe:—</p> - -<p>Mix pepper, alisander, parsley, mint, and wild marjoram, with the yolks -of eggs, honey, garum, wine, cooked wine, and oil; add mustard and -vinegar.<a name="anc_xxi_259" id="anc_xxi_259"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_259"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_259]</span></a></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>SEA-CRAWFISH.</h3> - -<p>Apicius sought relief from his culinary studies at Minturnus, in -Campania, where that great master regaled himself with delicious -sea-crawfish, in order to keep up his gustatory powers. Genius reposes -amidst studious leisure. Being told that Africa produced some of these -<i>testacea</i> of an immense size, immediately the worthy Roman tears -himself away from the sweet solitude he had created; he freights a -vessel, Æolus smiles on the undertaking, Neptune protects him, and he -arrives in sight of the African shore. Scarcely was he disembarked when -some fishermen brought him a few sea-crawfish; he examines, rejects -them, and demands finer ones to be brought. He is informed that it will -be impossible to procure any larger than those before him. At this -Apicius smiles disdainfully, and commanding the presence of his pilot, -orders him to steer back for Italy.<a name="anc_xxi_260" id="anc_xxi_260"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_260"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_260]</span></a> Decidedly magiric genius -never revealed itself by a more sublime action.</p> - -<p>However, Pliny somewhere mentions certain magnificent sea-crawfish, -which he describes as being four cubits in length<a name="anc_xxi_261" id="anc_xxi_261"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_261"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_261]</span></a>—very large -ones, certainly.</p> - -<p>Roman tables often presented to the sight of guests boiled sea-crawfish, -peppered and garnished with asparagus,<a name="anc_xxi_262" id="anc_xxi_262"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_262"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_262]</span></a> but they were generally -covered with a gravy composed of honey, vinegar, wine, garum, oil, and -cooked wine; to which were added scallions, chopped small, pepper, -alisander, carrots, cummin, and dates. Mustard was then mixed with the -whole.<a name="anc_xxi_263" id="anc_xxi_263"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_263"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_263]</span></a></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>LOBSTER.</h3> - -<p>Antiquity rendered justice to the lobster, and the taste for it did not -change, being founded on truly estimable and sterling qualities. It was<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_248" id="page_248"></a>{248}</span> -opened lengthwise, and filled with a gravy, into the composition of -which entered both pepper and coriander. It was then slowly cooked on -the gridiron, and every now and then basted with the same kind of gravy, -with which the flesh became impregnated.<a name="anc_xxi_264" id="anc_xxi_264"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_264"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_264]</span></a></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>RIVER CRAYFISH.</h3> - -<p>The Greeks were remarkably fond of this fish,<a name="anc_xxi_265" id="anc_xxi_265"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_265"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_265]</span></a> especially when -obtained from Alexandria.<a name="anc_xxi_266" id="anc_xxi_266"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_266"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_266]</span></a> They were not less esteemed in Rome, -where they eat them boiled with cummin, and seasoned with pepper, -alisander, parsley, dried mint, and a great quantity of cummin; the -whole carefully and well ground, and mixed with honey, vinegar, and -garum, to which was sometimes added some liquid perfume.<a name="anc_xxi_267" id="anc_xxi_267"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_267"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_267]</span></a></p> - -<p>“Crayfishes can be preserved several days, not too warm, in baskets with -some fresh grass, such as the nettle, or in a bucket with three-eighths -of an inch of water. If there were enough water in it to cover them, -they would die in a few moments, because their great consumption of air -does not allow them to live in water unless it is continually -renewed.”—<span class="smcap">Bosc</span>.</p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>CRAB.</h3> - -<p>Would you like to eat crab sausages? Boil some of these animals; reduce -them to a pulp; mix with this some spikenard, garum, pepper, and eggs; -give to this the ordinary shape of sausages, place them on the stove or -gridiron, and you will, by these means, obtain a delicate and tempting -dish.<a name="anc_xxi_268" id="anc_xxi_268"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_268"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_268]</span></a> Apicius assures us of the fact: Apicius was a -connoisseur!</p> - -<p>A crab may also be served whole, boiled, and accompanied by a seasoning -of pepper, cummin, and rue, which the cook skilfully mixes with garum, -honey, oil, and vinegar.<a name="anc_xxi_269" id="anc_xxi_269"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_269"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_269]</span></a></p> - -<p>Is it preferred stuffed? Then fill it with a skilful mixture of cummin, -mint, rue, alisander, pine nuts, and pepper, the whole long soaked in -garum, honey, vinegar, and wine.<a name="anc_xxi_270" id="anc_xxi_270"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_270"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_270]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_249" id="page_249"></a>{249}</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>FROGS.</h3> - -<p>The ancients thought nothing of frogs, which they left at liberty to -propagate. There was such a great number among the Abderites, that these -good people gave up to them their native soil, and left the place in -search of another spot.</p> - -<p>At the present day, in some countries, frogs are sought for as a most -agreeable and wholesome food; in other parts—England in -particular—they are disdainfully shunned. But in France there is a -great consumption of them, especially in the spring. About a century -since, they were greatly in fashion at Paris; and it is stated that a -countryman from the province of Auvergne, named Simon, made a -considerable fortune by feeding and fattening them in one of the suburbs -of that city, which were sent to him from Auvergne.</p> - -<p>“In Germany, the various parts of the frog are eaten, the skin and -intestine excepted; but in France they are satisfied with the hind legs, -which, by the size of their muscles, are themselves equivalent to all -the rest. They are dressed with wine as fish, with white or brown sauce; -fried, or roasted; when tender, and properly done, it is a most delicate -dish.”—<span class="smcap">Bosc</span>.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p>Before the conclusion of this article, we may as well mention a -frightful fish which modern good taste has banished from our tables, but -which the ancients allowed to appear at theirs. It is the <i>Polypus</i>, -highly esteemed both in Greece and Italy, when caught at a certain -period, and its numerous immoderate legs stretched far over the edges of -the dish prepared to receive it.<a name="anc_xxi_271" id="anc_xxi_271"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_271"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_271]</span></a></p> - -<p>This monster was cut in pieces, and eaten with a sauce composed of -pepper, garum, and benzoin.<a name="anc_xxi_272" id="anc_xxi_272"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_272"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_272]</span></a></p> - -<p>It will be easily understood that ancient nations must have early -accustomed themselves to fishing, the origin of which, doubtless, goes -back to the first ages of civilization. The holy writings often mention -fishermen,<a name="anc_xxi_273" id="anc_xxi_273"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_273"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_273]</span></a> fish-hooks, and nets. Homer speaks of them,<a name="anc_xxi_274" id="anc_xxi_274"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_274"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_274]</span></a> -and the poet, Hesiod, who flourished thirty years before Homer,<a name="anc_xxi_275" id="anc_xxi_275"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_275"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_275]</span></a> -places on the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_250" id="page_250"></a>{250}</span> shield of Hercules an attentive fisherman, ready to throw -his net over some fish pursued by a dolphin.<a name="anc_xxi_276" id="anc_xxi_276"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_276"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_276]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Egyptians also practised this occupation; of which the following -anecdote is a proof:—</p> - -<p>Antony being in Egypt, the beauteous Cleopatra sought to amuse him by -inventing for his entertainment each day new kinds of pleasure; but the -Roman general, seized with a violent love of fishing, fled from the -society of his numerous courtiers, and, alone on the borders of the sea, -or an isolated lake, vainly waiting for the smallest gudgeon, he forgot -long hours of vain expectancy and useless patience. The queen undertook -his cure. She commanded a diver to plunge into the water, and there a -hook a fish to the line of Antony. He, seeing it agitated, joyfully -withdrew it from the water, and unhooked a <i>salted sardine</i>. Cleopatra -then exclaimed: “Leave to Egyptians the task of fishing; Romans should -take only kings, cities, and emperors.”<a name="anc_xxi_277" id="anc_xxi_277"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_277"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_277]</span></a></p> - -<p>The inhabitants of Italy fished exactly in the same manner we do at this -day;<a name="anc_xxi_278" id="anc_xxi_278"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_278"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_278]</span></a> but Roman luxury, always greedy of extravagant profusion, -invented those celebrated fish ponds which cost immense sums, both to -build and maintain;<a name="anc_xxi_279" id="anc_xxi_279"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_279"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_279]</span></a> and to which Lucullus, Hortensius, and -Philippus, whom Cicero surnamed the “Tritons of fish pools,”<a name="anc_xxi_280" id="anc_xxi_280"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_280"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_280]</span></a> -consecrated almost entirely their anxiety and fortunes.</p> - -<p>This folly was carried to such a height that fish ponds were constructed -on the roofs of houses.<a name="anc_xxi_281" id="anc_xxi_281"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_281"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_281]</span></a> More reasonable persons contented -themselves with bringing river-water into their dining-rooms.<a name="anc_xxi_282" id="anc_xxi_282"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_282"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_282]</span></a> -The fish swam under the table, and it was only necessary to stoop and -pick them out the instant before eating them.<a name="anc_xxi_283" id="anc_xxi_283"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_283"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_283]</span></a></p> - -<p>These expensive habits could only suit the most opulent and least -numerous class of Romans. The honest citizen modestly provided himself -at the fish-market, and the part not eaten by him the first day was -submitted to a very simple process, which assured its preservation. For -this, it was only necessary to cover it with boiling vinegar as soon as -it had been fried.<a name="anc_xxi_284" id="anc_xxi_284"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_284"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_284]</span></a></p> - -<p>Fish was also well preserved by surrounding it with snow, and placing it -at the bottom of an ice-house.<a name="anc_xxi_285" id="anc_xxi_285"></a><a href="#footnote-xxi_285"><span class="fnanchor">[XXI_285]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_251" id="page_251"></a>{251}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="XXII" id="XXII"></a>XXII.</h2> - -<hr /> - -<h3>THE COOK.</h3> - -<p>The author of a rare and very curious work,<a name="anc_xxii_1" id="anc_xxii_1"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_1"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_1]</span></a> which no one at -present has time to read, formed the charitable project of reconciling -medicine and gastronomy. This was a noble enterprize, worthy of a true -philanthropist, and which assuredly presented less difficulties than -people may think. In effect, what was the moot question? To agree, <i>de -forma</i>, without interfering with the substance; to examine whether -culinary preparations poison, as has been said, the food which nature -gives us, and unceasingly paralyze the salutary action of the dietetic, -which the faculty prescribe.</p> - -<p>For many centuries cooking has been exposed to these odious reproaches, -the gravity of which we do not pretend to attenuate; and yet, ever -pursuing its brilliant career amidst revolutions and ruins, the magiric -art, endowed with eternal youth, embellishes each new era of -civilization, receives its most constant homage, and survives it when it -fades away. Let us speak plainly: mankind has thrown on cooks all the -faults of which they ought to accuse their own intemperance. It was no -doubt easier, than to avoid the fatal abuse of pleasure, and the evils -it brings with it; but there was the crying injustice, which we do not -hesitate to denounce; <i>there</i> lay the obstacle it was necessary to -overcome, in order to bring about a peaceful understanding between the -disciples of Galen and the followers of Apicius.</p> - -<p><i>Gourmandise</i> would never have rebelled against the kitchen if all -polyphagists had obtained from the good Ceres the gift she granted to -Pandarea—a celebrated eater, who could pass days and nights at table, -without experiencing the slightest indigestion.<a name="anc_xxii_2" id="anc_xxii_2"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_2"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_2]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_252" id="page_252"></a>{252}</span></p> - -<p>“But,” say you, “Seneca, the philosopher, perpetually combats, with the -authority of his virtuous language, those dangerous men who are busied -with a single stomach,<a name="anc_xxii_3" id="anc_xxii_3"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_3"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_3]</span></a> and who lay the foundation for a train of -maladies.”</p> - -<p>The reply to this is, that Seneca, the pedant, should have thundered -against the stomach, which alone is guilty (he has sometimes done so); -that this atrabilarious preceptor of Nero, attacked with an incurable -consumption, could only eat very little, which much enraged him; and -that his imprecations on the subject of the excessive riches and -prodigious luxury of the Romans of his age, neither hindered him from -possessing, and unceasingly increasing, a more than royal fortune; nor -from feeding—well or ill—several thousand slaves; nor from pompously -displaying in his palace five hundred tables—only five hundred—of the -most elaborate workmanship, of the rarest wood, all alike, and -ornamented with precious incrustations.<a name="anc_xxii_4" id="anc_xxii_4"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_4"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_4]</span></a></p> - -<p>How often have people extolled the Lacedæmonians and their legislator, -Lycurgus. Well, Lycurgus mercilessly commanded poor little children to -fast when they looked fresh and fat.<a name="anc_xxii_5" id="anc_xxii_5"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_5"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_5]</span></a> Strange law-giver of a -strange people, who never learned to eat, and yet who invented the -celebrated “black sauce,” the <i>jus nigrum</i>, for which the entrails of -the hare served as the foundation. So true it is that cookery always -preserves certain imprescriptible rights over the most fervent disciples -of frugality.</p> - -<p>Moralists do not cease to repeat that Rome would never have had -sumptuary laws had it not been corrupted by cooks from Athens and -Syracuse. This is an error. All the ordinances of the consuls proscribed -profusion, excess—in a word, all the ruinous expenses of a passionate -and ridiculous gastrophagy,<a name="anc_xxii_6" id="anc_xxii_6"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_6"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_6]</span></a> at the same time, respecting the -magiric art itself; that is to say, that industrious chemistry which -composes, decomposes, combines, and mixes—in a word, prepares different -substances which gluttony, delicacy, the fashion, or luxury may confide -to it for the space of a few minutes.</p> - -<p>Why render the cook responsible for the extravagant tastes and follies -of his age? Is it for him to reform mankind? Has he either the means or -the right?</p> - -<p>What is asked of him? and what can be asked? To understand exactly the -properties of everything he employs, to perfect, and correct, if -necessary, the savours on which he operates; to judge with<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_253" id="page_253"></a>{253}</span> a true -taste, to degustate with a delicate palate, to join the skilful address -of the hand, and the prompt and comprehensive glance, to the bold but -profound conceptions of the brain; and above all—it cannot be too often -repeated—to identify himself so well with the habits, the wants, even -the caprices and gastronomic eccentricities, of those whose existence he -embellishes, that he may be able, not to obey them, but to guess them, -and even have a presentiment of them.<a name="anc_xxii_7" id="anc_xxii_7"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_7"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_7]</span></a></p> - -<p>Such is, to use an original expression of Rabelais, “<i>toute l’artillerie -de gueule</i>,” which the cook can master. It is the sum total of what has -been bequeathed to us by some great men, whose scattered instructions, -lying here and there in books of morality and philosophy—there are -numerous analogies between the act of eating and the art of living -well—have been collected with scrupulous care, classed with all the -attention we can command, and will serve, we hope, to beguile the -studious leisure of the lovers of antiquity and the culinary science.</p> - -<p>Mankind had long obeyed that imperious and periodical necessity which -has been called hunger, when it announces its presence with its brutal -exigencies, before any one thought to form a code of doctrine calculated -to guide a sensation which, by its energy and duration, procures us the -most thrilling and lasting pleasures.</p> - -<p>The primitive nations no doubt gave themselves up to their native -gluttony. They eat much, but they fed badly. They did not yet possess -gastronomy; and, consequently, they had no cooks, in the serious and -complete acceptation of the word.</p> - -<p>The heroes of Homer prepared their repasts with their own hands,—and -what repasts, gods of taste!—and prided themselves on their culinary -talents. <i>Où la vanité va-t-elle se nicher?</i> Ulysses surpassed all -others in the art of lighting the fire, and laying the cloth.<a name="anc_xxii_8" id="anc_xxii_8"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_8"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_8]</span></a> -Patroclus drew the wine, and Achilles very carefully turned the -spit.<a name="anc_xxii_9" id="anc_xxii_9"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_9"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_9]</span></a></p> - -<p>The conquerors of Troy shone more in the combat than under the tent -which served them as kitchen.</p> - -<p>At length the aurora of the magiric ages began to dawn: it is not a -revolution, it is a creation which is preparing to appear. Man has only -known hunger; he shall now become acquainted with the charms of an -appetite. The King of Sidon learns how to eat, and it is Cadmus, the -grandfather of Bacchus, the future founder of Thebes, who takes upon -himself to instruct this august mouth.<a name="anc_xxii_10" id="anc_xxii_10"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_10"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_10]</span></a></p> - -<p>And since that time how many illustrious followers have descended<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_254" id="page_254"></a>{254}</span> into -the arena, how many glorious names will not culinary annals have to -register!</p> - -<p>Somebody will, perhaps, one day publish a chronological history of -celebrated cooks. In the meantime, it may not be amiss to recall to -memory a few illustrious men, whose services and genius an ungrateful -posterity has too soon forgotten.</p> - -<p>Thimbron, among the Greeks, took the culinary art from its cradle: he -watched devoutedly over its development, and only descended into the -tomb after having won the heart of the whole of Greece,<a name="anc_xxii_11" id="anc_xxii_11"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_11"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_11]</span></a> for his -favourite science. Timachidas of Rhodes, cook and poet of the highest -renown, composed an epopee on the art which he professed, in the midst -of emanations from the stoves and the spit.<a name="anc_xxii_12" id="anc_xxii_12"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_12"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_12]</span></a> His verses, glowing -with the sacred fire which inspired him, lighted up the magiric vein of -several of his disciples, among whom Numenius, Hegemon, and Metreas, are -still cited.<a name="anc_xxii_13" id="anc_xxii_13"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_13"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_13]</span></a></p> - -<p>Artemidorus collected and commented on all the words in use in the -kitchens of his time.<a name="anc_xxii_14" id="anc_xxii_14"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_14"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_14]</span></a> Greece owed to this patient terminologist -the possession of a culinary language, subject to certain unchangeable -rules.</p> - -<p>Mithœcus gave the “Sicilian Cook”—a remarkable type of a multitude -of tiresome and insipid imitations.<a name="anc_xxii_15" id="anc_xxii_15"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_15"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_15]</span></a></p> - -<p>At length Archestratus appeared. He was of Syracuse, and passed all his -life in profoundly meditating on the functions, strength, anomalies, and -resources of the stomach. He discovered the laws which govern that -organ, and presented to the world his magnificent treatise on -gastronomy<a name="anc_xxii_16" id="anc_xxii_16"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_16"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_16]</span></a>—an inestimable master-piece of laborious -investigation of which time has deprived us, together with the works of -his useful predecessors.</p> - -<p>We must not omit the names of some celebrated theoricians, to whom the -art owes its rapid progress:—Philoxenus of Leucadus, devoted himself to -the difficult study of degustation, and practised several experiments, -which were, however, ill-appreciated by his contemporaries. Thus, in the -public baths, he accustomed his mouth and hands to the contact of -boiling-water, in order to be able to seize and devour burning viands, -the instant they were placed on the table. He recommended cooks to serve -everything very hot, so that he alone exercised mastication and -deglutition, while other guests less inured, were obliged to content -themselves with looking at him.<a name="anc_xxii_17" id="anc_xxii_17"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_17"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_17]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_255" id="page_255"></a>{255}</span></p> - -<p>Pithyllus invented a sheath that covered the tongue, and protected it, -without paralyzing its action, against a caloric dangerous to its -delicate tissue.<a name="anc_xxii_18" id="anc_xxii_18"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_18"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_18]</span></a> This ingenious cuirass was not appreciated, -and history, in its thoughtlessness, has not even transmitted to us a -description of it.</p> - -<p>It was then the good time of Athens: gluttons had made way for -epicureans; hunger, to a less fierce and gross sensation, already -subjected to examination and discussion. The magiric art possessed its -rules, its various partisans, its professors, and disciples. Great -masters studied deeply the appetite—indispensable basis, on which will -always rest the culinary exegesis; and they finished by classing it -definitively, according to the three degrees of intensity which -observation discovers in it.</p> - -<p><i>The bold appetite</i>, said they, is that which is felt when fasting. It -reflects but very little; is not squeamish about viands, and loses all -reserve at the sight of a very indifferent <i>ragoût</i>.</p> - -<p><i>The indolent appetite</i> requires to be encouraged. It must be enticed, -pressed, irritated. At first, nothing moves it—but after having tasted -a succulent dish, it rouses, is astonished, its ardour becomes animated, -and is capable of performing prodigies. It is this appetite which has -consecrated the trivial but true proverb: “<i>L’appétit vient en -mangeant</i>.”</p> - -<p>The <i>eclectic appetite</i> owes nothing to nature; it is the child of art. -Happy, thrice happy, the skilful cook to whom it says: “Thou art my -father!” But how difficult is this creation—how rare! It is the work of -genius—but listen. Some guests, chosen amidst veteran epicureans, seat -themselves round a table covered with culinary offerings worthy only of -the God of Feasts, and a small number of the faithful. Their <i>indolent -appetite</i> examines, compares, judges, and, at length, abandons itself to -the incomparable dainties from which it unceasingly seems to draw new -ardour. But alas! pleasure, like pain, has its limits here below. -Strength grows less, and becomes extinguished; the eye loses its greedy -covetousness;<a name="anc_xxii_19" id="anc_xxii_19"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_19"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_19]</span></a> the palate languishes; the tongue becomes -paralysed; the stomach sinks, and that which before pleased, now creates -only fatigue and disgust. It is then that a <i>cusinier hors ligne</i>, tries -a bold diversion, which must never be risked if the artist does not feel -in himself that force of generous efforts which is no other than genius. -By his orders, three or four dishes, prodigies of science and of luxury, -appear on the altar, which the sacrificers no longer heed. At this -sight,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_256" id="page_256"></a>{256}</span> their looks brighten; desire revives; the smile reappears; the -magiric <i>facies</i> shines forth with all its splendour; the chest dilates, -and you no longer distinguish your former guests. A man has transformed -them. Each one chooses, tries, tastes—is silent, and lost in wonder. -The appetite is perhaps tired, but not satiated; and the skilful cook at -length enjoys a deserved triumph.</p> - -<p>In this solemn moment he received, among the ancients, a crown of -flowers<a name="anc_xxii_20" id="anc_xxii_20"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_20"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_20]</span></a>—sweet and noble recompense of his arduous toil. Nay, a -more substantial proof of gratitude often greeted his new dishes. In -Greece, the inventor alone had a right to prepare them during a whole -year, and drew from it all the honour and profit. It was necessary, in -order that these culinary preparations should fall into the public -domain, that some one of his colleagues should succeed in surpassing -him.<a name="anc_xxii_21" id="anc_xxii_21"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_21"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_21]</span></a></p> - -<p>At this epoch, the best cooks came from Sicily. Trimalcio was one of the -most celebrated. Athenæus tells us that, when he could not procure rare -and highly esteemed fish, he understood so well how to imitate their -form and flavour with common fish, that the most cunning epicures were -always entrapped. This reminds us of a certain cook of Louis XIV., who, -on Good Friday, served the king with a dinner, apparently composed of -poultry and butcher’s meat, which, in reality, offered nothing but -vegetables, and prepared, too, <i>au maigre</i>.</p> - -<p>The Romans, inheritors of the luxury of Asia and Greece, did not erect a -temple to the greedy Addephagia, goddess of good cheer, who possessed -altars in Sicily;<a name="anc_xxii_22" id="anc_xxii_22"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_22"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_22]</span></a> but they thought it impossible to repay too -highly those who knew how to extend the limits of the pleasures of the -table,<a name="anc_xxii_23" id="anc_xxii_23"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_23"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_23]</span></a> and a generous senator offered his <i>chef</i> at least four -talents, or more than £800 a year.</p> - -<p>This is yet but little compared with the magnificence of Antony. He gave -a supper to Cleopatra; that princess praised the delicacy of the feast, -and immediately her lover called for the cook, and presented him with a -city, in recompense.</p> - -<p>How times are changed! We, at the present day, treat all this as pompous -and ridiculous prodigality. It is because our somewhat mean epoch judges -the olden times by the narrow ideas of order, foresight, and economy. -The ancients enriched their <i>Archimagiri</i>, wasted their revenue in -feasts, and then killed themselves. We have adopted a very different -style of living. But, at the same time, how far are our most sumptuous -banquets behind the most modest collations of Greece and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_257" id="page_257"></a>{257}</span> Rome! Lucullus -caused to be served to Cicero and Pompey a little <i>ambigu</i>, which cost -£1,000. There were only three of them to partake of it!</p> - -<p>The Emperor Claudius had generally six hundred guests at his -table.<a name="anc_xxii_24" id="anc_xxii_24"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_24"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_24]</span></a></p> - -<p>Vitellius did not spend less than £3,200 for each of his -repasts;<a name="anc_xxii_25" id="anc_xxii_25"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_25"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_25]</span></a> and the composition of his favourite dishes required -that vessels should unceasingly ply between the Gulf of Venice and the -Straits of Cadiz.<a name="anc_xxii_26" id="anc_xxii_26"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_26"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_26]</span></a></p> - -<p>It must be confessed that cooks of that gastronomic era had to fulfil an -incessant and most laborious task. What was then more natural than to -abandon to them some thousands of those sesterces, which the profusion -of the master devoured by millions, in the form of phenicopters’ -tongues, scarus or parrot-fishes’ livers, and peacocks’ brains?</p> - -<p>We see that the Cæsars encouraged this frightful gastronomic monomania. -Tiberius gave more than £3,000 to the author of a dialogue, in which the -interlocutors were mushrooms, fig-peckers, oysters, and -thrushes.<a name="anc_xxii_27" id="anc_xxii_27"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_27"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_27]</span></a></p> - -<p>Galba breakfasted before day-break, and the breakfast would have -enriched a hundred families.<a name="anc_xxii_28" id="anc_xxii_28"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_28"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_28]</span></a> Ælius Verus invented the -<i>pentapharmacum</i>, a kind of <i>Macédoine</i>, composed of sows’ flanks, -pheasants, peacocks, ham, and wild boars’ flesh.<a name="anc_xxii_29" id="anc_xxii_29"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_29"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_29]</span></a> Geta insisted -upon having as many courses as there were letters in the alphabet, and -each of these courses must contain all the viands whose name began by -the same letter.<a name="anc_xxii_30" id="anc_xxii_30"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_30"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_30]</span></a></p> - -<p>These follies, which cooks were forced to obey, continued to astonish -the world until the moment when Rome—with her gods, the monuments of -her ancient glory, and of her recent turpitudes—crumbled beneath the -invincible weight of that horde of barbarians, that mysterious and -implacable scourge, which Divine vengeance reserved for the punishment -of unheard-of crimes.</p> - -<p>But, as we have before remarked, the magiric art always survives -revolutions and ruin of empires. Modern Italy inherited the wrecks of -Roman cookery, and, thanks to her, Europe is at the present day -acquainted with the delights of good cheer, and the charm of joyous -repasts.</p> - -<p>Under the reign of Louis XII. there arose a company of sauce -manufacturers, who obtained the exclusive privilege of making sauces. -Their statutes (1394) inform us that the famous sauce <i>à la cameline</i>,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_258" id="page_258"></a>{258}</span> -sold by them, was to be composed “of good cinnamon, good ginger, good -cloves, good grains of paradise, good bread, and good vinegar.” The -sauce, <i>Tence</i>, was to be made of “good sound almonds, good ginger, good -wine, and good verjuice.” We find in Taillevant, the celebrated cook of -Charles V. and Charles VI., besides the <i>cameline</i>, <i>l’eau bénite</i> (holy -water)—the sauce for pike, <i>le saupiquet</i>, <i>le mostechan</i>, <i>la -gélatine</i>, <i>la sauce à l’alose</i>, <i>au moût</i>, that of milk-garlic, cold, -red, and green sauces, <i>sauce Robert</i>, <i>Poitevine</i>, <i>à Madame rappée</i>, -and <i>à la dodine</i>.</p> - -<p>Platina, a Latin author of the 15th century, speaks of other sauces, in -the composition of which sugar was frequently employed, according to the -proverb of those times: “Sugar never spoiled sauce.”</p> - -<p>In the middle ages, poultry, butchers’ meat, and roast game, were never -eaten dry, as they are now, any more than fried fish. There were -different sauces for all those dishes, and even for the different parts -of each animal. The cooks of those days strove to acquire a reputation -by inventing strange and grotesque sauces, which had no other merit than -that of being surprising and difficult to make, as, for example: “eggs -cooked on the spit,” “butter fried or roasted.” &c.<a name="anc_xxii_31" id="anc_xxii_31"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_31"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_31]</span></a></p> - -<p>We recognize in some of our most common <i>ragoûts</i>, those of which our -ancestors were so fond in the middle ages, such as the <i>bœuf à la -mode</i>, <i>à la persillade</i>, <i>au vinaigre et persil</i>, <i>le miroton de -bœuf</i>, <i>veau percé de gros lard</i>, <i>fricassée de poulet</i>, <i>blanquette -de veau rôti</i>; but we have lost the <i>pot-pourri</i>, composed of beef, -veal, mutton, bacon, and vegetables, and the <i>galimafrée</i>, a kind of -<i>fricassée</i> of fowl, seasoned with wine, verjuice, and spices, and -thickened with the famous sauce <i>cameline</i>.<a name="anc_xxii_32" id="anc_xxii_32"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_32"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_32]</span></a></p> - -<p>The cooks frequently placed on their masters’ tables <i>ragoûts</i> and other -dishes borrowed from foreign nations. They had a German <i>brouet</i>, a -Flemish <i>chaudeau</i>, eggs <i>à la Florentine</i>, and partridges <i>à la -Catalane</i>. They knew the <i>olla</i>—a mixture of all sorts of vegetables -cooked with different kinds of meats, which we owe to the Spaniards, as -well as the <i>ragoût</i> of fowl, called <i>à la Chipolata</i>, and the -<i>keneffes</i>—a kind of forced-meat balls made of bread and meat, to which -the Germans are very partial, and the <i>pilau</i>—a dish of mutton, fowl, -and rice, borrowed from the Turks.<a name="anc_xxii_33" id="anc_xxii_33"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_33"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_33]</span></a></p> - -<p>The art of cooking with its innumerable paraphernalia of sauces with -gravy, pepper, cinnamon, garlic, scallion, brains,<a name="anc_xxii_34" id="anc_xxii_34"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_34"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_34]</span></a> with its -gravy soups,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_259" id="page_259"></a>{259}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="pl_XI" id="pl_XI"></a> -<a href="images/ill_pg_259_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_259_sml.jpg" width="247" height="442" alt="Image not available: Pl. 11." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">Pl. 11.</span> -</div> - -<p class="nind">milk pottage, and <i>ragoûts</i>, had a signal triumph at the wedding of -Charles VI. of France. On that occasion a skilful cook covered the great -black marble table of the royal palace<a name="anc_xxii_35" id="anc_xxii_35"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_35"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_35]</span></a> with a hundred dishes -prepared in a hundred different ways.</p> - -<p>The good physicians did not proscribe the art of cooking; several of -their number even deigned to write treatises upon it.<a name="anc_xxii_36" id="anc_xxii_36"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_36"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_36]</span></a></p> - -<p>A certain monkish servant, moved by an indiscreet zeal, wished not only -to mortify himself but all the Franciscans of the monastery. -Consequently, he prepared the repasts in the worst manner he could. But -the community held a chapter, and he was condemned to receive fifty -lashes; many of the monks wanted to enforce a more rigorous discipline -by giving a hundred.<a name="anc_xxii_37" id="anc_xxii_37"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_37"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_37]</span></a></p> - -<p>In the middle ages, the cook of a house of any note always seated -himself in a high arm chair to give his orders; he held a long wooden -spoon in his hand, with which he tasted, without quitting his place, the -various dishes that were cooking on the stoves and in the saucepans, and -which served him also as a weapon with which to chastise the idle and -gluttonous.<a name="anc_xxii_38" id="anc_xxii_38"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_38"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_38]</span></a></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>THE KITCHEN.</h3> - -<p>Let as enter together one of those vast kitchens, where two thousand -years ago, the marvellous suppers of some rich senator were concocted. -In every direction, slaves are coming loaded with meat, game, sea-fish, -vegetables, fruit, and those expensive delicacies of which the dessert -of the Romans was principally composed. The slaves have been over the -principal markets of the city, especially those of the Trigemina gate,</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="c">DESCRIPTION OF <a href="#pl_XI">PLATE No. XI.</a></p> - -<p>No. 1. Remains of a kitchen-stove in the house of Pansa, at -Pompeii, much like those of the present day; a knife, a strainer, -and a kind of frying-pan with four cavities, probably intended to -cook eggs.</p> - -<p>No. 2. Stock-pot, in bronze, to hang over the fire, if we may judge -from the eye at the top of the handle.</p> - -<p>No. 3. A similar one of another shape, for boiling.</p> - -<p>No. 4. Ladles of various forms, for making libation from larger -vessels.</p> - -<p>No. 5. A brazier; the thickness of the sides are hollow, and -intended to contain water, and the four turrets are provided with -moveable lids, at the side is a cock to draw off the water. The -centre of course was filled with lighted charcoal, and if a tripod, -or trivet, were placed above it, many processes of cooking, such as -boiling, stewing, or frying, might be -performed.—“<i>Pompeii.</i>”—“<i>Lib. of Ent. Know.</i>”<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_260" id="page_260"></a>{260}</span></p></div> - -<p class="nind">of the Metasudante,<a name="anc_xxii_39" id="anc_xxii_39"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_39"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_39]</span></a> of the Suburd Way,<a name="anc_xxii_40" id="anc_xxii_40"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_40"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_40]</span></a> and the Sacred -Way.<a name="anc_xxii_41" id="anc_xxii_41"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_41"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_41]</span></a> Each one lays his basket at the feet of the procurator or -major-domo, who examines the contents, and registers them on his -tablets;<a name="anc_xxii_42" id="anc_xxii_42"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_42"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_42]</span></a> then he has placed in the pantry, contiguous to the -dining room, those of the provisions which demand no -preparation,<a name="anc_xxii_43" id="anc_xxii_43"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_43"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_43]</span></a> but whose graceful and symmetrical arrangement is -confided to two Æolian servants designated under the name of -<i>structores</i>.<a name="anc_xxii_44" id="anc_xxii_44"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_44"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_44]</span></a></p> - -<p>All these porters are under the immediate orders of a confidential -servant—<i>obsonator</i>—charged with buying the provisions necessary for -the household, and who is obliged to make himself acquainted with the -taste of his master and also of each guest, that he may procure nothing -which they dislike.<a name="anc_xxii_45" id="anc_xxii_45"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_45"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_45]</span></a></p> - -<p>The remaining comestibles are placed in an airy and spacious apartment -adjoining the kitchen, and at the back of the house.<a name="anc_xxii_46" id="anc_xxii_46"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_46"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_46]</span></a> There, -around a table loaded with numerous wooden figures, representing a -variety of animals, some attentive young men are practising, under the -direction of an experienced master, the difficult art of carving game -and poultry;<a name="anc_xxii_47" id="anc_xxii_47"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_47"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_47]</span></a> whilst a melodious symphony accustoms their -skilful hands to hasten or retard their graceful movements according to -the time of the music.<a name="anc_xxii_48" id="anc_xxii_48"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_48"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_48]</span></a> In this learned rehearsal the eye and -ear, alike charmed, pass alternately from the peaceful emotions of the -pensive <i>adagio</i> to the lively cadences of the rapid <i>allegro</i>, and from -the harmonious and calm <i>andante</i> to the captivating and joyous accents -of a frenzied <i>prestissimo</i>.</p> - -<p>In this spacious laboratory the most delicious emanations invite us. The -chief of the cooks, the <i>Archimagirus</i>,<a name="anc_xxii_49" id="anc_xxii_49"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_49"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_49]</span></a> seated on a raised -platform, embraces at a single glance the series of stock-pots and brick -stoves,<a name="anc_xxii_50" id="anc_xxii_50"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_50"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_50]</span></a> very similar to those in use at the present day, at -which the silent crowd of assistants,<a name="anc_xxii_51" id="anc_xxii_51"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_51"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_51]</span></a> ministers of his will, -elaborate and watch the expensive dishes destined to form a splendid -supper. As, at the moment of battle, the general, motionless on a height -which commands a view of his army, hastens, orders, scolds his scattered -battalions, absent and yet everywhere, animating with his own -inspiration the warlike masses, and exciting them with the excitement of -his own soul, he invokes victory, and victory replies, “Behold me!” The -<i>Archimagirus</i> has also his days of triumph; and in the evening, -perhaps, the king of the feast will place on his head a crown of -flowers, precious recompense of his talent and success.</p> - -<p>At some distance from the culinary autocrat, on the opposite side, an<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_261" id="page_261"></a>{261}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="pl_XII" id="pl_XII"></a> -<a href="images/ill_pg_261_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_261_sml.jpg" width="276" height="421" alt="Image not available: Pl. 12" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">Pl. 12</span> -</div> - -<p class="nind">immense iron grate,<a name="anc_xxii_52" id="anc_xxii_52"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_52"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_52]</span></a> carefully supplied with wood,<a name="anc_xxii_53" id="anc_xxii_53"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_53"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_53]</span></a> -which an unhappy slave unceasingly blows with his breath into a -flame,<a name="anc_xxii_54" id="anc_xxii_54"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_54"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_54]</span></a> throws around its lurid glare. The <i>Lares</i>, grotesque -figures, roughly carved in stone, protect this spot. A cock is -sacrificed to them in the month of December.<a name="anc_xxii_55" id="anc_xxii_55"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_55"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_55]</span></a></p> - -<p>Some learned men have supposed that the Greeks and Romans had no -chimneys; it is, however, easy to prove the contrary. Philocleo, a -character in the comedy of the “<i>Wasps</i>” of Aristophanes, hides himself -in a chimney. A slave who hears him, cries out, “What a noise there is -in the pipe of this chimney!” Philocleo, being discovered, exclaims, “I -am the smoke, and I am trying to escape.”<a name="anc_xxii_56" id="anc_xxii_56"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_56"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_56]</span></a></p> - -<p>Appian, speaking of the proscriptions of the triumvirs, relates that -several citizens fled into the pipes of the chimneys.<a name="anc_xxii_57" id="anc_xxii_57"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_57"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_57]</span></a></p> - -<p>These two examples will preclude the necessity of more ample citations.</p> - -<p>A vast cauldron of brass from Argos,<a name="anc_xxii_58" id="anc_xxii_58"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_58"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_58]</span></a> or Dodona,<a name="anc_xxii_59" id="anc_xxii_59"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_59"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_59]</span></a> placed -on a tripod above the fireplace, furnishes the hot water required for -the service of the kitchen. The frying-pan, beside it, serves in the -cooking of certain delicate cakes or fish.<a name="anc_xxii_60" id="anc_xxii_60"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_60"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_60]</span></a></p> - -<p>The magiric laboratory, to which the reader is invited, is very nicely -decorated with a profusion of utensils similar in every respect to our -own in point of shape—such as gridirons, cullenders, dripping-pans, and -tart dishes. These objects are of tolerably thick bronze, plated with -fine silver.<a name="anc_xxii_61" id="anc_xxii_61"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_61"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_61]</span></a> Charming shells of the same metal, serve to mould -the pastry,<a name="anc_xxii_62" id="anc_xxii_62"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_62"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_62]</span></a> which is afterwards disposed with order on the -shelves of a country oven,<a name="anc_xxii_63" id="anc_xxii_63"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_63"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_63]</span></a> or in the upper part of the -authepsa,—a kind of saucepan of Corinthian brass, of considerable -value, and made with such art that its contents cook instantly and -almost without fire.<a name="anc_xxii_64" id="anc_xxii_64"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_64"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_64]</span></a> This simple and ingenious vessel possesses -a double-bottom; the uppermost one holds</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="c">DESCRIPTION OF <a href="#pl_XII">PLATE No. XII.</a></p> - -<p>From the ancients very little is left us of their kitchen utensils; -however, the vessels and instruments which they used must have been -in great variety; they had boilers called by the names of -<i>caldarium</i>, <i>cacabus</i>, <i>cortina</i>, <i>adhenum</i>; chaldron, <i>lebes</i>; -stewpan, <i>sartago</i>; saucepan, <i>pultarium</i>; the cullender, with -small holes perforated, Pliny calls <i>colum</i>, and more modern -writers <i>verna</i>; spoons, in Latin, <i>cochlear</i> or <i>cochleare</i>; forks -and hooks, to draw the meat out of the stockpots, they named -<i>creagra</i> and <i>fuscina</i>; the dishes were called <i>lances</i>, <i>disci</i>, -<i>patina</i>, <i>patella</i>, or <i>catini</i>; and distinguished from plates by -the size, and sometimes the shape.</p> - -<p><b>No. 1.</b> Stockpot, with a large ladle and cullender attached, with -small holes; appeared on the column of Trajan, together with the -stewpan of Silenus.</p> - -<p><b>No. 2.</b> Broken stewpan, in bronze.</p> - -<p><b>No. 3.</b> Smaller one. These three articles of kitchen utensils are -from the cabinet of M. l’Abbé Charlet.—“<i>Antiquités de -Montfaucon.</i>”<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_262" id="page_262"></a>{262}</span></p></div> - -<p class="nind">the light delicacies destined for the dessert, and the fire is -underneath.<a name="anc_xxii_65" id="anc_xxii_65"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_65"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_65]</span></a></p> - -<p>The diploma, or double-vase, which has sometimes been confounded with -the authepsa, does not in the least resemble the latter. It is thus they -named the vessel called by us a “<i>bain-marie</i>;”<a name="anc_xxii_66" id="anc_xxii_66"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_66"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_66]</span></a> the ancients -made great use of this mild and gentle process of cooking, which is -often mentioned in the treatise of Apicius.<a name="anc_xxii_67" id="anc_xxii_67"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_67"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_67]</span></a></p> - -<p>These brass boilers, which boil on the hearth, supported by three feet, -are precisely like those used by the French at the present day.<a name="anc_xxii_68" id="anc_xxii_68"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_68"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_68]</span></a> -Boilers also of a rather different kind are sometimes used, in which the -operation of ebullition takes place sooner than in the first mentioned; -they are closed with a cover in the form of a dome, and a large hollow -cylinder, fixed beneath, hastens and keeps up the action of the -caloric.<a name="anc_xxii_69" id="anc_xxii_69"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_69"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_69]</span></a></p> - -<p>The saucepans, around which a host of cooks are busily engaged, are for -the greater part made of brass or earthenware,<a name="anc_xxii_70" id="anc_xxii_70"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_70"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_70]</span></a> tolerably wide -and deep, which they place on the stoves, and in which are concocted the -delicate and scientific preparations. Some are of silver.<a name="anc_xxii_71" id="anc_xxii_71"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_71"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_71]</span></a> The -caprices of luxury have led them to suppose that certain expensive -viands acquire greater perfection when cooked in this precious metal.</p> - -<p>A confidential slave, charged with the care of the plate, is cleaning -and polishing near a dresser a large number of bronze chafing-dishes, -which are to be used at table to prevent the plates from becoming cold. -It is in speaking of this useful invention that Seneca, the philosopher, -says, “Daintiness gave birth to this invention, in order that no viand -should be chilled, and that everything should be hot enough to please -the most pampered palate. The kitchen follows the supper.”<a name="anc_xxii_72" id="anc_xxii_72"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_72"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_72]</span></a> Each -of these elegant utensils is supported by three geese. It measures about -seven inches from the extremity of one of the bird’s heads to the -opposite edge of the circumference. This kind of tray is fifteen lines, -or an inch and a-quarter deep, and the feet raise it about two inches -above the plane. The three geese have their wings spread, and terminate -by</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="c">DESCRIPTION OF <a href="#pl_XIII">PLATE No. XIII.</a></p> - -<p>No. 1. This boiler is made of bronze; the lower part was filled -with water, and made to boil by means of the cylinder, covered with -a lid, in which lighted charcoal was introduced; the ashes escaped -through holes perforated at the bottom, and the basin has a tap to -let the water out.</p> - -<p>No. 2. A flat saucepan, or sauté pan, with a fluted handle, and a -ram’s head at the end.</p> - -<p>No. 3. A kettle similar to our teapots.</p> - -<p>No. 4. A gridiron, and a dripping-pan.</p> - -<p>No. 5. A trivet, a cleaver, and a butcher’s knife.—<span class="smcap">St. Non</span>, -“<i>Cabinet of Herculaneum</i>.”</p></div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="pl_XIII" id="pl_XIII"></a> -<a href="images/ill_pg_262_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_262_sml.jpg" width="243" height="457" alt="Image not available: Pl. 13." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">Pl. 13.</span> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_263" id="page_263"></a>{263}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="pl_XIV" id="pl_XIV"></a> -<a href="images/ill_pg_263_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_263_sml.jpg" width="256" height="419" alt="Image not available: Pl. 14" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">Pl. 14</span> -</div> - -<p class="nind">neats’ feet. The heads, raised on the breasts, form graceful -handles.<a name="anc_xxii_73" id="anc_xxii_73"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_73"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_73]</span></a> These chafing-dishes, arranged systematically on the -sigma, produce a delightful effect.</p> - -<p>Dishes of massive silver occupy another compartment of the vast -cupboard. An opulent family could not possibly do without this luxury. -Sylla had some which weighed 200 marks, and Rome would produce more than -five hundred of the same weight.<a name="anc_xxii_74" id="anc_xxii_74"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_74"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_74]</span></a> It was in fact a perfect -<i>furore</i>, which afterwards greatly augmented. In the time of the Emperor -Claudius, one of his slaves, named Drusillanus Rotundus, possessed a -silver dish weighing 1,000 marks, which was served in the midst of eight -smaller ones weighing 100 marks each. These nine dishes were arranged at -table on a machine which supported and placed them prominently in view.</p> - -<p>The <i>patinæ</i> such was the name of these magnificent pieces of plate, -served for <i>ragoûts</i> and fish; the <i>catinus</i>, an immense vase of -earthenware among the poor<a name="anc_xxii_75" id="anc_xxii_75"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_75"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_75]</span></a> and of silver with the rich, is more -especially reserved for liquid dishes, with much gravy, and what we call -pottage.<a name="anc_xxii_76" id="anc_xxii_76"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_76"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_76]</span></a></p> - -<p>Those silver cups and saucers, of the same shape and size as those we -employ for tea, have a destination very strange to our ideas. They are -used to drink hot water. They are worked in relief, with a taste and -delicacy which we cannot too much admire.<a name="anc_xxii_77" id="anc_xxii_77"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_77"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_77]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Roman spoons, rather different from our own, end on one side by a -point, to pick shell fish from their shell, and at the other by the bowl -of a spoon, with which eggs were eaten.<a name="anc_xxii_78" id="anc_xxii_78"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_78"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_78]</span></a></p> - -<p>Doubtless, forks were unknown to the Greeks, since Athenæus relates, -“that Pithyllus”—surnamed the Dainty—“did not content himself with -covering his tongue with a species of net, to appreciate the taste of -the various dishes, but cleaned and rubbed it with a fish. He also -enveloped his hands in a kind of glove, to eat everything burning -hot;”<a name="anc_xxii_79" id="anc_xxii_79"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_79"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_79]</span></a> a useless precaution if he had used a fork.</p> - -<p>This indispensable addition to a modern table was, perhaps, not common -at Rome, but nevertheless, it was to be seen at the residence of some -wealthy families. The slave before-mentioned holds several in his hand. -These forks are remarkable for the beauty of their workmanship.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="c">DESCRIPTION OF <a href="#pl_XIV">PLATE No. XIV.</a></p> - -<p>No. 1. Chafing-dish to keep everything hot.</p> - -<p>No. 2. Silver cup, beautifully chased, to drink hot water.</p></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_264" id="page_264"></a>{264}</span></p> - -<p>The stags’ feet which terminate the handles, and the fillets with which -they are ornamented, bear witness by their execution to the rare talent -of the goldsmith. They are five inches and a half in length, and have -only two prongs.<a name="anc_xxii_80" id="anc_xxii_80"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_80"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_80]</span></a></p> - -<p>Other servants dispose the earthenware pails, in which the wine is to be -placed to cool,<a name="anc_xxii_81" id="anc_xxii_81"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_81"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_81]</span></a> and prepare the drinking cups and crystal -flagons.<a name="anc_xxii_82" id="anc_xxii_82"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_82"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_82]</span></a> One of them replenishes with vinegar, salt, and -pepper, little vases designated by the name of <i>acetabulum</i>, “vinegar -cruet.”<a name="anc_xxii_83" id="anc_xxii_83"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_83"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_83]</span></a> These are so many models of the most exquisite -elegance, in bronze, silver, and, sometimes, gold. They are manufactured -simply of earthenware, for the use of the middle classes of -people.<a name="anc_xxii_84" id="anc_xxii_84"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_84"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_84]</span></a></p> - -<p>The knives, destined to serve at table, are of brilliant steel, and -carefully sharpened; they bear each on the handle some whimsical -ornament, and seem to have served as models for those which were so much -in fashion towards the beginning of the 17th century, and which were -called Chinese knives.<a name="anc_xxii_85" id="anc_xxii_85"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_85"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_85]</span></a></p> - -<p>The most precious plate is arranged before the arrival of the guests on -the abacus, or sideboard, which decorates the dining room. This splendid -piece of furniture, which will be noticed hereafter, was introduced into -Rome 187 years <small>B.C.</small> It was also called the Delphic table.<a name="anc_xxii_86" id="anc_xxii_86"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_86"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_86]</span></a></p> - -<p>However, the <i>Archimagirus</i> has drawn up a list of the repast, which -contains the bill of fare of the dishes, and which, both in Greece and -Rome, was always presented to the guests.<a name="anc_xxii_87" id="anc_xxii_87"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_87"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_87]</span></a> -He descends from his -platform, and goes to cast an inspiring glance on the work of each -subordinate. Nothing escapes his learned investigation, from the -peacocks’ eggs of the first service, to the soft cheese commonly eaten -at the third.<a name="anc_xxii_88" id="anc_xxii_88"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_88"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_88]</span></a> Above all, he examines with minute attention the -ovens, at which preside those second cooks of whose talents he is not -certain, and who belong to that class of erratic artists who are to be -met with every day at the forum,</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="c">DESCRIPTION OF <a href="#pl_XV">PLATE No. XV.</a></p> - -<p>No. 1. Roman silver spoon, found at Autun, in France. Martial says -expressly that spoons were used by the ancients to eat eggs and -shell fish.</p> - -<p>No. 2. Brass knife, from Herculaneum. The shape of the handle is -rather singular, being too small for the hand, but it was probably -covered with horn, wood, or ivory. However, it may have been, the -knife is thirteen inches in length, from the tip to the ring, which -was used to hang it up. The handle is three inches long, and the -blade in its largest width is one inch and a quarter. It was used -no doubt for sacrifices.</p> - -<p>No. 3. A simpulum, or a sort of spoon for salt or eggs.</p> - -<p>No. 4. A simpulum, or cup with a long handle, commonly ending with -a hook, which was used as a ladle to take wine or other liquids out -of large vessels.</p> - -<p>No. 5. Fork mentioned in the text, and given as antique in the -“<i>Recueil d’Antiq.,</i>” III., Pl. 84.</p></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_265" id="page_265"></a>{265}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="pl_XV" id="pl_XV"></a> -<a href="images/ill_pg_264_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_264_sml.jpg" width="279" height="440" alt="Image not available: Pl. 15." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">Pl. 15.</span> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="pl_XVI" id="pl_XVI"></a> -<a href="images/ill_pg_265_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_265_sml.jpg" width="277" height="457" alt="Image not available: Pl. 16" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">Pl. 16</span> -</div> - -<p class="nind">where they wait till some one comes to request their services.<a name="anc_xxii_89" id="anc_xxii_89"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_89"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_89]</span></a> -His remarks, full of sense and precision, proclaim profound study and -consummate experience. “Never will this <i>depsiticius</i> bread,”<a name="anc_xxii_90" id="anc_xxii_90"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_90"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_90]</span></a> -says he to one of them, “obtain the necessary lightness by baking; the -flour should have been passed through a Spanish sieve of linen -thread;<a name="anc_xxii_91" id="anc_xxii_91"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_91"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_91]</span></a> Use the Gallic sieve of horsehair for the -<i>artocreas</i>,<a name="anc_n" id="anc_n"></a><a href="#footnote_n"><span class="fnanchor">[N]</span></a><a name="anc_xxii_92" id="anc_xxii_92"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_92"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_92]</span></a> and one of papyrus, or Egyptian rush,<a name="anc_xxii_93" id="anc_xxii_93"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_93"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_93]</span></a> -for the coarser kinds of flour.” “The grasshoppers require great -precaution,” he exclaims, an instant after, approaching a young -Sicilian; “fry them so that they obtain only a light gold -colour.”<a name="anc_xxii_94" id="anc_xxii_94"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_94"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_94]</span></a> Then, passing to a third stove, he shows to one of his -favourite pupils how to season highly an excellent sauce of snails (this -<i>hors-d’œuvre</i>, dear to the Romans), and by what marks to distinguish -those fattened by art in particular inclosures, from those which feed in -gardens and are only fit for the common people.<a name="anc_xxii_95" id="anc_xxii_95"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_95"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_95]</span></a> He then stops -before a stewpan, where a cook is browning large worms of a whitish hue, -which breed in the hollows of trees, and are considered by the -Romans<a name="anc_xxii_96" id="anc_xxii_96"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_96"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_96]</span></a> as a most delicious dish: “The flour with which these -cossi were fed was heated,” says he; “they will present to the teeth -only a soft and insipid substance.”<a name="anc_xxii_97" id="anc_xxii_97"></a><a href="#footnote-xxii_97"><span class="fnanchor">[XXII_97]</span></a></p> - -<p>We will not accompany this great master any further: his instructions -are already known to us. An enthusiastic disciple of Apicius, he -practises the lessons of that illustrious professor; and we should only -hear from him precepts which we have already faithfully transmitted.</p> - -<p>When the moment of supper is arrived, we shall find the <i>Archimagirus</i> -presiding at that gastronomic order of battle on which depends the -success of the day. May Vesta and Comus be propitious to him.</p> - -<p>In the 14th century, the refectories and kitchens of the numerous -communities of Paris presented a curious scene. Immense coppers -contained the pottage and boiled meat, and monster gridirons, on four -wheels, covered vast braziers. All the utensils of these kitchens were -of remarkable dimensions.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="c">DESCRIPTION OF <a href="#pl_XVI">PLATE No. XVI.</a></p> - -<p>No. 1. Roman silver knife handle.</p> - -<p>No. 2. Roman silver spoons.</p> - -<p>No. 3. A very deep dish of metal, either for sauces or some kind of -liquid.</p></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_266" id="page_266"></a>{266}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="XXIII" id="XXIII"></a>XXIII.<br /><br /> -SEASONINGS.</h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">The</span> animal and vegetable kingdoms furnish us with an abundant and -wholesome food, whose flavour gastronomic caprice unceasingly modifies -by the aid of various substances which we denominate seasonings. It is, -above all, the perfect knowledge of these ingredients, the manner of -employing them, and their skilful mixture, which constitute the art of -the cook. Labour and custom, and a kind of routine which the palate -acquires easily, will suffice for those who content themselves with this -calling, and who, carefully preserving the timid traditions of the past, -view progress as ruin and devastation, and the fruitful boldness of -inspiration as ridiculous and fatal innovations.</p> - -<p>Heresy, and even schism (pardon these expressions), should be allowed in -cookery, as soon as they receive the sanction of the doctors -<i>ès-banquets</i>—the sole judges competent in such matters. It is to the -art professed by Apicius that the celebrated line of Voltaire appears -more peculiarly to apply:—</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">“Tous les genres sont bons, excepté l’ennuyeux.”<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>Innovate, then, studious disciples of the illustrious Roman: consult -only the measures of your strength, the conscience of your genius, and -the infallible good taste of some chosen guests. Create for your -seasoning unheard-of combinations, the strangeness of which shall strike -and astonish; whose flavour shall subjugate and stifle criticism beneath -the sweet efforts of a voluptuous mastication.</p> - -<p>Learn how to make your areopagitæ eat: this innocent seduction will -insure your triumph.</p> - -<p>Treat not with too much disdain these Roman recipes; for although the -formidable list may excite a smile from the reader, and, perhaps,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_267" id="page_267"></a>{267}</span> the -scorn of the cook, a great and prolific idea slumbers beneath the cold -ashes of the ovens of Apicius which a breath may rekindle; and, at the -same time, resuscitate some of those culinary wonders of a bygone -civilisation, and endow our modern age, so impatient of the future, so -curious concerning the past.</p> - -<p>Two Phœnicians—whose names are never mentioned by forgetful -posterity—Selech and Misor, taught mankind the art of heightening the -flavour of their food by mixing with it a certain quantity of salt. The -science of seasoning has no other origin.<a name="anc_xxiii_1" id="anc_xxiii_1"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_1"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_1]</span></a></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>SALT.</h3> - -<p>The law of Moses commanded the Jews to mix salt with everything offered -in sacrifice.<a name="anc_xxiii_2" id="anc_xxiii_2"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_2"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_2]</span></a> This prescription sufficiently testifies the use -of this condiment at an epoch which the uncertainty of profane writers -appears to invade on all sides, and which the great Hebrew legislator -alone enlightens with a ray invariably steady and pure.</p> - -<p>The Asphaltite lake produced abundance of salt.<a name="anc_xxiii_3" id="anc_xxiii_3"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_3"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_3]</span></a> It was sent -even to Rome, and was considered by Galen as the most desiccatory and -digestive of any kind.<a name="anc_xxiii_4" id="anc_xxiii_4"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_4"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_4]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Greeks placed this substance in the list of things which ought to be -consecrated to the gods; and it is in this sense that Homer gives it the -epithet of divine. Pagan superstition, of which some traces may still be -remarked in the 19th century, threatened with some great misfortune any -one who spilt salt; and it was deemed a signal impiety to forget placing -salt-cellars on the table, or to dare go to sleep before removing them. -This strange superstition was common among the Greeks and -Romans.<a name="anc_xxiii_5" id="anc_xxiii_5"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_5"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_5]</span></a> Those nations never failed consecrating their repasts -by filling salt-cellars, near to the vase in which they presented the -gods with the first portion of meat and fruit.<a name="anc_xxiii_6" id="anc_xxiii_6"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_6"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_6]</span></a></p> - -<p>Certain nations, among others the Numidians, were not acquainted with -salt;<a name="anc_xxiii_7" id="anc_xxiii_7"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_7"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_7]</span></a> and in the greater part of countries where it abounded, -cupidity almost invariably subjected it to a heavy tax, which rendered -its use less practicable.</p> - -<p>The inhabitants of Troad provided themselves for a long time with salt -from Tragase without cost. King Lysimachus one day thought of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_268" id="page_268"></a>{268}</span> exacting -a duty for every measure carried away. But, wonderful to relate, hardly -was the royal edict published, when the salt springs were found to be so -nearly dried up, that they hardly furnished wherewith to season a small -stew. Lysimachus comprehended the meaning of this prodigy, and abolished -the tax. The salt re-appeared.<a name="anc_xxiii_8" id="anc_xxiii_8"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_8"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_8]</span></a></p> - -<p>At Rome, in the time of her Kings, every one was free to sell salt, and -its price became excessively high. The republican government withdrew -this right from private individuals, and from that time the common -people easily procured all the salt they required, and which they -willingly eat with bread.<a name="anc_xxiii_9" id="anc_xxiii_9"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_9"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_9]</span></a></p> - -<p>Ancus Martius was the first Roman who established salt works near Ostia -towards the mouth of the Tiber.<a name="anc_xxiii_10" id="anc_xxiii_10"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_10"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_10]</span></a> Afterwards, others were -formed, not only in Rome, but in the provinces. These were of two kinds, -public and private. The first belonged to the republic, and formed part -of the emperor’s domain; malefactors were condemned to labour in the -salt-works, and it was generally women on whom this punishment was -inflicted.<a name="anc_xxiii_11" id="anc_xxiii_11"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_11"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_11]</span></a></p> - -<p>Ancus Martius was also the first who placed a duty on salt. It was -abolished after the expulsion of the Kings, but was afterwards again -established.</p> - -<p>Down to the 14th century salt was a commodity of trade open to every one -in France. Philip the Long and Philip of Valois were the first to impose -a momentary tax on it; but after the fatal battle of Poictiers, in which -John was taken prisoner, Charles, his son, in order to pay the ransom of -that monarch, had recourse, among other extraordinary means, to the -establishment of the salt tax. The idea was found to be good, and it has -never since been given up.<a name="anc_xxiii_12" id="anc_xxiii_12"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_12"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_12]</span></a></p> - -<p>There are four sorts of salt which are employed to season dishes, -obtained either from the evaporation of sea water, from certain lakes or -salt marshes, and also from saliferous sources drawn out of the bosom of -the earth in compact masses. Its particular savour is well known; it is -soluble in water, and easily becomes damp. In the scientific language, -this substance is called hydrochlorate of soda.</p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>BRINE.</h3> - -<p>This was water in which bay salt had been dissolved. At Rome, it was -served at table to be mixed with the meat precisely in the same<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_269" id="page_269"></a>{269}</span> manner -as we serve salt in salt-cellars. The Romans plunged in this muria any -fish or meat they might wish to preserve.<a name="anc_xxiii_13" id="anc_xxiii_13"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_13"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_13]</span></a></p> - -<p>Strong <i>muria dura</i> was water so completely saturated with bay salt, -that no more could be dissolved in it.<a name="anc_xxiii_14" id="anc_xxiii_14"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_14"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_14]</span></a> Olives were washed in -it.</p> - -<p>The brine most sought after was that of Antibes, of Thurium, and of -Dalmatia.<a name="anc_xxiii_15" id="anc_xxiii_15"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_15"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_15]</span></a> It was prepared with the blood and other juices -which, after death, escaped from the tunny fish,<a name="anc_xxiii_16" id="anc_xxiii_16"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_16"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_16]</span></a> mixed with -garum, which rendered it more fluid and less expensive.</p> - -<p>At the end of the repast, enigmas were often proposed to the guests. -Some delicious dish served as a reward to those who were fortunate -enough to guess them; the others were compelled to pour <i>muria</i> into -their drink, and swallow a cup-full without taking breath.<a name="anc_xxiii_17" id="anc_xxiii_17"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_17"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_17]</span></a></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>DIGESTIVE SALTS.</h3> - -<p>The Romans were enormous eaters. Apicius, who was better aware of it -than any one, imagined providing against those accidents to which his -countrymen did not fear to expose themselves once every day, by offering -to them a preparation which our habits of sobriety would, doubtless, -render useless at the present day; but which the curious will not be -sorry to discover in these sketches of antique gastrophagy. Take a pound -of common salt, which torrefy and pulverize; mix it with three ounces of -white pepper, two ounces of ginger, an ounce of lamoni, an ounce and a -half of thyme, as much of celery seed, three ounces of wild marjoram, an -ounce and a-half of rocket seed, three ounces of black pepper, an ounce -and a-half of holy thistle, two ounces of hyssop, two ounces of -spikenard, two ounces of parsley, and two ounces of -anise-seed.<a name="anc_xxiii_18" id="anc_xxiii_18"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_18"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_18]</span></a></p> - -<p>Take a small quantity of these salts after a too plentiful dinner; and -the stomach will immediately defy the most imminent indigestion.</p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>GARUM.</h3> - -<p>When we have read all that has been written by the ancients on this -famous preparation, we become convinced, in spite of the obscurities -and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_270" id="page_270"></a>{270}</span> continual contradictions of commentators, that if garum is no -longer manufactured in the present day, it is not on account of the -impossibility we find in discovering the recipe of the Greeks and -Latins, but solely because this rather strange brine has not the same -charm for us that it had for them. Let us, however, scan the -authorities.</p> - -<p>The Greeks called the shrimp <i>garos</i>, the Romans <i>garus</i>: it may hence -be supposed that garum had originally for basis the flesh of shrimps, if -Pliny had not taken the trouble to inform us of the fact.<a name="anc_xxiii_19" id="anc_xxiii_19"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_19"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_19]</span></a> It -was afterwards composed of other fish, but it always retained the name -which recalled its origin.<a name="anc_xxiii_20" id="anc_xxiii_20"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_20"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_20]</span></a> In like manner the signification of -certain words is now applied to things quite different from the original -type: chicory, or succory, is received under the mask of coffee: a -certain pottage boldly usurps the honours due exclusively to turtle -soup. Nothing more easy than to multiply these examples of catachreses: -there are few figures which have become so common.</p> - -<p>Well, then, they macerated the intestines of fish in water, saturated -with salt, until putrefaction began to show itself; they then added -parsley and vinegar.<a name="anc_xxiii_21" id="anc_xxiii_21"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_21"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_21]</span></a></p> - -<p>A thick garum was also frequently obtained, by allowing the entrails and -other parts, generally thrown away, to liquefy in salt.<a name="anc_xxiii_22" id="anc_xxiii_22"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_22"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_22]</span></a></p> - -<p>In the time of Pliny, mackerel<a name="anc_xxiii_23" id="anc_xxiii_23"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_23"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_23]</span></a> was preferred, of which they -employed either the gills and intestines, or only the blood, directly -the fish left the water,<a name="anc_xxiii_24" id="anc_xxiii_24"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_24"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_24]</span></a> and while yet living. They thus -obtained a precious liquid, and which the care necessary for its -production rendered so dear, that eight pints of it cost no less than -from fifteen to twenty pounds.<a name="anc_xxiii_25" id="anc_xxiii_25"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_25"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_25]</span></a></p> - -<p>This expensive garum was especially esteemed when it came from Spain: it -was then called “garum of the allies”—<i>garum sociorum</i>—because it was -received from a nation allied with the Romans;<a name="anc_xxiii_26" id="anc_xxiii_26"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_26"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_26]</span></a> or, again, -perhaps in allusion to the “band of gluttons,” of Rome, a sort of -fraternity of free-livers, who made great use of it.<a name="anc_xxiii_27" id="anc_xxiii_27"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_27"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_27]</span></a></p> - -<p>The blood and entrails of the tunny fish, mixed with salt in a vase, -produced also a most elaborate garum. A hole was made in the vessel at -the expiration of two months, and the rich seasoning flowed from -it.<a name="anc_xxiii_28" id="anc_xxiii_28"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_28"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_28]</span></a></p> - -<p>This brine became exquisite, and obtained an exorbitant price when made -from the liver of anchovies macerated in vinegar, pepper, salt, parsley, -garlic, white wine, and sweet herbs.<a name="anc_xxiii_29" id="anc_xxiii_29"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_29"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_29]</span></a> But Apicius attained at -the first step the apogee of refinement of the most sensual gluttony, by -inventing garum made from the liver of red mullet.<a name="anc_xxiii_30" id="anc_xxiii_30"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_30"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_30]</span></a> What we -have<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_271" id="page_271"></a>{271}</span> already said elsewhere with regard to this fish will enable the -reader to appreciate the value of this new preparation.</p> - -<p>Amateurs who were more economical contented themselves with very little -saxatile fishes,<a name="anc_xxiii_31" id="anc_xxiii_31"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_31"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_31]</span></a> of which only the intestines were taken, or -which were thrown whole into a vase with a great quantity of salt. These -were exposed to the sun, and the mixture long and often stirred. When -heat had caused fermentation, and the vessel contained only a kind of -pulp, or paste, almost liquid, a kind of willow basket was introduced, -into which the garum alone could penetrate. The thick part—the dregs -which remained at the bottom of the vase—was termed <i>alec</i>.<a name="anc_xxiii_32" id="anc_xxiii_32"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_32"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_32]</span></a></p> - -<p>The following method was also frequently adopted:—</p> - -<p>Mackerel, or small fish, were placed in a small vase with a large -quantity of salt; this was well stirred, and the mixture was then left -quiet all night. The next day it was transferred into an earthen pot, -which remained uncovered in the sun. At the end of two or three months, -it was hermetically closed, after having added a quantity of old wine -equal to one-third of the mixture.<a name="anc_xxiii_33" id="anc_xxiii_33"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_33"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_33]</span></a></p> - -<p>When it was wished to obtain garum without waiting any length of time, -they took brine, carefully filtered, and so saturated with salt that an -egg would float on it; this was placed with the fish in a new saucepan; -wild marjoram was added, and the whole boiled over a gentle fire, until -the fish was entirely dissolved. Then wine, reduced to two-thirds by -boiling, was added. It was left to get cold; the liquid was several -times filtered, till it became quite clear, and was then finally placed -in an uncovered vase.<a name="anc_xxiii_34" id="anc_xxiii_34"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_34"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_34]</span></a></p> - -<p>Although fish was generally used, the flesh of several animals was -sometimes employed in the formation of garum.<a name="anc_xxiii_35" id="anc_xxiii_35"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_35"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_35]</span></a> It was, however, -submitted to the same preparations as those already mentioned.</p> - -<p>Such was this wonderful seasoning, forming the chief delight of the -ancients, whose praises poets have sung, and the composition of which -formerly exercised the singularly mad intelligence of Maître François -Rabelais. The reader will doubtless remark, that the principal elements -of garum are almost invariably the same: fish, salt, and a greater or -less fermentation. But perhaps some one may exclaim: “This must be -detestable!” No doubt, but then no one ever thought of regaling himself -with this liquid; it was never taken alone; it was but reserved as a -seasoning for a host of dishes, in order to heighten their flavour.</p> - -<p>It must also be observed, that a skilful cook always took care to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_272" id="page_272"></a>{272}</span> -modify the garum before he sent it to table, by the help of various -ingredients, such as pepper, vinegar, Falernian wine,<a name="anc_xxiii_36" id="anc_xxiii_36"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_36"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_36]</span></a> water, -and oil,<a name="anc_xxiii_37" id="anc_xxiii_37"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_37"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_37]</span></a> according to the use to which it was destined, or the -degree of strength it was expedient it should possess. Hence that -variety of seasonings with garum,—sweet,<a name="anc_xxiii_38" id="anc_xxiii_38"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_38"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_38]</span></a> sharp, mixed with -water, wine, vinegar, and many other substances which changed or -corrected the acid flavour of the primitive condiment,<a name="anc_xxiii_39" id="anc_xxiii_39"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_39"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_39]</span></a> though -without in the least depriving it of the qualities which fermentation -had communicated to it.</p> - -<p>It results from the different citations of which this chapter is -composed, that recipes for the making of garum are to be obtained more -easily than people seem to think at the present time. Everyone may not -be of the same opinion with regard to the kind of fish generally used by -the ancients to obtain this liquid, although all difficulties would be -removed by admitting—which certainly is nothing but right—that they -chose at one time mackerel or tunny fish; at others, gudgeons and small -sardines; sometimes even the red mullet, in spite of its rarity and -price. But it is evident that garum was prepared by either dissolving -and liquefying these fish in their brine, either whole, their -intestines, or their liver, and that, to effect this, it was only -necessary to expose to the sun the vessel containing them; or that they -simply put small fish into a dish, with vinegar and parsley, placed it -on a charcoal fire, and stirred it for some time, when it was wanted for -immediate use.</p> - -<p>It must have been remarked in reading this work, that Apicius very -frequently employs garum; he places it in every sauce, but never makes -use of this seasoning unmixed, never does he serve it by itself as a -special dish. This celebrated gastronomist has bequeathed us the recipe -for a digestive garum. It is as follows:—</p> - -<p>Mix with some honey, half an ounce of pepper, three scruples of -eschalots, six scruples of cardamum, one scruple of spikenard, and six -scruples of mint; add vinegar to this mixture, and then pour in some -garum.<a name="anc_xxiii_40" id="anc_xxiii_40"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_40"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_40]</span></a></p> - -<p>The <i>Hypotrimma</i>, or stomachic condiment, of the same master, merits -also our attention:—Mix carefully some pepper, benzoin, mint, -pine-nuts, dried raisins, and dates, with fresh (not salt) cheese, -vinegar, oil, honey, and wine, reduced by boiling to one half; add garum -to this mixture.<a name="anc_xxiii_41" id="anc_xxiii_41"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_41"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_41]</span></a></p> - -<p>The <i>Moretaria</i> appears to be a variety of the Hypotrimma; it is a -mixture of mint, rue, coriander, fennel, the whole fresh, with benzoin, -pepper, honey, and vinegar; to this, garum is added.<a name="anc_xxiii_42" id="anc_xxiii_42"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_42"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_42]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_273" id="page_273"></a>{273}</span></p> - -<p>Whatever may be the opinion the reader may form of this garum, of which -mention has so frequently been made, and which has been alternately -praised and despised by the moderns, it is certain that the most -fastidious persons were madly fond of it, and that in the time of Pliny, -it was so much esteemed, that its price equalled that of the most -precious perfumes.</p> - -<p>“At the present day this celebrated seasoning is forgotten in Italy, but -in Turkey it is still in use. The inn-keepers of Constantinople preserve -in garum the cooked fish not consumed in the day.”—<span class="smcap">Bosc.</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>HONEY.</h3> - -<p>What is sweeter than honey?<a name="anc_xxiii_43" id="anc_xxiii_43"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_43"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_43]</span></a> what is more pure,<a name="anc_xxiii_44" id="anc_xxiii_44"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_44"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_44]</span></a> or -more nourishing?<a name="anc_xxiii_45" id="anc_xxiii_45"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_45"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_45]</span></a> It is the milk of the aged, it prolongs their -existence,<a name="anc_xxiii_46" id="anc_xxiii_46"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_46"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_46]</span></a> and when they descend into the tomb, it still -serves to embalm them.<a name="anc_xxiii_47" id="anc_xxiii_47"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_47"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_47]</span></a></p> - -<p>Pagan antiquity ascribed the honour of the discovery of this useful -substance to the Athenian Aristæus, who taught mankind to feed on it. -This valuable service procured him a patent of nobility. He was made a -descendant of Bacchus or Apollo.<a name="anc_xxiii_48" id="anc_xxiii_48"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_48"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_48]</span></a></p> - -<p>It is not necessary to say that honey was known in the east long before -the rise of Athens; it is already mentioned in the first book of the -holy writings.<a name="anc_xxiii_49" id="anc_xxiii_49"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_49"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_49]</span></a></p> - -<p>It is said that Spain owed its knowledge of this delicious aliment to -Gorgor, King of the Curetes, who was polite enough to take some on the -occasion of a journey which he made into that country.<a name="anc_xxiii_50" id="anc_xxiii_50"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_50"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_50]</span></a> The -Peninsula could afterwards furnish this delicacy for the tables of Rome -and Italy.</p> - -<p>The Greeks esteemed honey most highly;<a name="anc_xxiii_51" id="anc_xxiii_51"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_51"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_51]</span></a> they employed it in -pastry, and in <i>ragoûts</i>;<a name="anc_xxiii_52" id="anc_xxiii_52"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_52"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_52]</span></a> their philosopher, Pythagoras, eat -nothing else with his bread, and, as he lived to be ninety years old, he -recommended his disciples to follow the same <i>régime</i>.<a name="anc_xxiii_53" id="anc_xxiii_53"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_53"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_53]</span></a> They -profited by th sage’s counsel, and found themselves all the better for -it.<a name="anc_xxiii_54" id="anc_xxiii_54"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_54"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_54]</span></a></p> - -<p>A benevolent goddess protected bees, hives, and the honeycomb. She was -called Mellona, and a grateful piety offered her honey every new-year’s -day.<a name="anc_xxiii_55" id="anc_xxiii_55"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_55"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_55]</span></a></p> - -<p>Theophrastus distinguished three kinds of honey: that which the bees -extract from flowers, that which comes from the air, and lastly, the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_274" id="page_274"></a>{274}</span> -honey from reeds.<a name="anc_xxiii_56" id="anc_xxiii_56"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_56"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_56]</span></a> We clearly perceive that he means honey, -manna, and sugar.</p> - -<p>Virgil thought that a gentle dew falls on the flowers, and became -immediately the prey of bees, which deposited it in their -cells.<a name="anc_xxiii_57" id="anc_xxiii_57"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_57"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_57]</span></a> Pliny has adopted the same graceful error,<a name="anc_xxiii_58" id="anc_xxiii_58"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_58"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_58]</span></a> -and even Galen himself partakes of it.<a name="anc_xxiii_59" id="anc_xxiii_59"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_59"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_59]</span></a></p> - -<p>The ancients caused honey to be served at the beginning of a -repast;<a name="anc_xxiii_60" id="anc_xxiii_60"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_60"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_60]</span></a> it was used in lieu of sugar in the preparation of -preserves and some kinds of beverages, which will hereafter claim our -attention. They preferred that of Attica,<a name="anc_xxiii_61" id="anc_xxiii_61"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_61"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_61]</span></a> and insisted on its -being thick, clear, granulated, transparent, fresh, and aromatic, with a -somewhat sharp flavour.<a name="anc_xxiii_62" id="anc_xxiii_62"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_62"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_62]</span></a> The faculty attributed to it great -virtues.<a name="anc_xxiii_63" id="anc_xxiii_63"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_63"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_63]</span></a></p> - -<p>Honey served as a basis to the wonderful seasoning of Apicius, which we -present to the studious investigation of modern gastronomy:—Put fifteen -pounds of honey into a brass vessel, containing two pints of wine. Warm -at a very gentle fire, stir, and when it rises, pour over more wine. Let -the mixture rise three times, then take it from the fire, and skim it -the next day. Then add four ounces of ground pepper, three scruples of -gum, a drachm of spikenard, a drachm of saffron, five drachms of dried -dates, after softening them in wine; pour on the whole eighteen pints of -light wine.<a name="anc_xxiii_64" id="anc_xxiii_64"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_64"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_64]</span></a></p> - -<p>The <i>Oxyporon</i> was another seasoning much in vogue two thousand years -ago, and in which honey was the principal ingredient. It was composed by -mixing two ounces of cummin seed, one ounce of ginger, one ounce of -green rue, and six scruples of nitre, with one ounce of pepper, and -twelve scruples of fine dates; nine ounces of honey were then poured -over the whole.<a name="anc_xxiii_65" id="anc_xxiii_65"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_65"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_65]</span></a></p> - -<p>Sometimes they contented themselves with macerating cummin seed in -vinegar, which they left to dry, and then pounded it; that done, it was -put into honey.<a name="anc_xxiii_66" id="anc_xxiii_66"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_66"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_66]</span></a></p> - -<p>“The honey most esteemed is the white, granulated, and of an aromatic -flavour. The honey from the French provinces of Narbonne, the Gatinais, -or Britanny, is the most esteemed. Honey is next of kin to sugar, having -the same properties. It is frequently used in domestic economy, and in -medicine as a laxative. It enters into a number of remedies, either as a -corrective, or an excipient.”—“<i>Dictio. Encycl.</i>”<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_275" id="page_275"></a>{275}</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>SUGAR.</h3> - -<p>Theophrastus, the first among the ancients who speaks of sugar, classes -it among the number of honeys.<a name="anc_xxiii_67" id="anc_xxiii_67"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_67"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_67]</span></a> Dioscorides also calls it -“honey of reeds;” he adds that these reeds grow in India, or in Arabia -Felix, and that the agreeable substance they contain has some analogy -with salt.<a name="anc_xxiii_68" id="anc_xxiii_68"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_68"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_68]</span></a> Pliny also gives it the same name. It is, according -to this naturalist, a kind of honey, with which certain reeds are -filled, and used only in medicine.<a name="anc_xxiii_69" id="anc_xxiii_69"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_69"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_69]</span></a></p> - -<p>This was also the opinion of many ancient authors;<a name="anc_xxiii_70" id="anc_xxiii_70"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_70"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_70]</span></a> one of -whom, Paul Eginetta, calls sugar—Indian salt.<a name="anc_xxiii_71" id="anc_xxiii_71"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_71"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_71]</span></a></p> - -<p>The sugar cane appears to be originally a native of the East Indies. -From the most remote ages the Chinese have understood the art of -cultivating it. The histories of the Egyptians, Phœnicians, and Jews, -make no mention of it. The Greek physicians are the first who speak of -it.</p> - -<p>It was not till the year 1471 that a Venetian discovered the method of -purifying brown sugar and making loaf sugar. He gained an immense -fortune by this discovery.<a name="anc_xxiii_72" id="anc_xxiii_72"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_72"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_72]</span></a></p> - -<p>Sugar cane, well purified, and disburthened of all foreign matter, is -white, solid, inodorous, soluble in water, of a soft and agreeable -savour. Its specific gravity is 1.6065; it is used as a seasoning in a -multitude of dishes, in preparing syrups, preserving of fruits, <i>&c.</i>, -<i>&c.</i></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>CINNAMON.</h3> - -<p>In the time of Theophrastus, it was said that cinnamon grew in a dark -and silent valley, guarded night and day by fearful serpents. Animated -by the hope of gain, some individuals, careless of their existence, -risked their lives by gathering some of this precious bark. When they -had the good luck to avoid the vigilant reptiles, they consecrated to -the sun part of their booty, which the radiant orb immediately consumed -to prove his acceptance of the offering.<a name="anc_xxiii_73" id="anc_xxiii_73"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_73"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_73]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_276" id="page_276"></a>{276}</span></p> - -<p>Others, thinking this little tale on the subject of cinnamon rather too -dramatic, pretended that the shrub furnishing it was found only on high -mountains, to which man was forbidden all access. But fortunately -certain birds—the phoenix, among others—great amateurs of aromatics, -make their nests of its small branches; these nests are taken, and in -this manner, whether the year be good or bad, a sufficient stock of -cinnamon is obtained without much trouble.<a name="anc_xxiii_74" id="anc_xxiii_74"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_74"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_74]</span></a> Pliny recognises -two kinds of it—one white, the other black, both of which were brought -to Rome from Ethiopia, in the reign of Vespasian.<a name="anc_xxiii_75" id="anc_xxiii_75"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_75"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_75]</span></a></p> - -<p>Eighty years after (<small>A.D.</small> 164), Galen informs us that cinnamon was still -very scarce in Italy; that the Emperors alone possessed any; and that -they even preserved it among the curiosities they made it their pleasure -to collect and keep in their palaces.<a name="anc_xxiii_76" id="anc_xxiii_76"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_76"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_76]</span></a></p> - -<p>The same writer regards this so precious and uncommon cinnamon as an -excellent cordial and a good digestive.<a name="anc_xxiii_77" id="anc_xxiii_77"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_77"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_77]</span></a></p> - -<p>We may add that it was only well known in Europe after the frequent -voyages of the Portuguese to India.<a name="anc_xxiii_78" id="anc_xxiii_78"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_78"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_78]</span></a></p> - -<p>However, in 1168, an abbot of St. Gilles, in Languedoc, having a favour -to ask of Louis-le-Jeune, thought there was no better means of -persuading him to grant it than to send him a small stock of -cinnamon.<a name="anc_xxiii_79" id="anc_xxiii_79"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_79"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_79]</span></a></p> - -<p>Our forefathers (in the middle ages) had their tables furnished with -cinnamon sauce; nutmeg, mustard, and garlic sauces; cold sauces; parsley -and vinegar sauces, hot sauces, hell sauces, burgher sauces; cherry, -plum, mulberry, grape, gorse, rose, and flower sauces. They were served -with roast meat.</p> - -<p>Cinnamon is daily employed in medicine, in diarrhœa, several fevers, -&c., &c., and in pharmacy. That from China is much thicker than the -others, its colour darker, and its odour more powerful; essential oil is -drawn from it, and preserved in flagons, sealed with the arms of -government, and sold at a very high price.</p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>CLOVES.</h3> - -<p>Cloves were very little known to the ancients. Theophrastus, -Dioscorides, and Galen do not speak of them.</p> - -<p>Pliny says that some cloves were brought to Rome, very similar to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_277" id="page_277"></a>{277}</span> -grains of pepper but a little longer; that they were only to be found in -India, in a wood consecrated to the gods; and that they served in the -fabrication of perfumes.<a name="anc_xxiii_80" id="anc_xxiii_80"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_80"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_80]</span></a></p> - -<p>The conquest of India by the Portuguese rendered them common throughout -Europe.</p> - -<p>Cloves contain a considerable quantity of essential aromatic oil, thick, -brown, and very heavy, to which it owes its aromatic properties and -sharp burning savour. Cloves are employed as a seasoning or as medicine.</p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>PEPPER.</h3> - -<p>The two great cities of antiquity knew how to appreciate pepper, and -employed it largely in their culinary labours. They distinguished two -kinds: one round, the other long and thin.<a name="anc_xxiii_81" id="anc_xxiii_81"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_81"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_81]</span></a></p> - -<p>Dioscorides and Pliny describe the shrub, on which are to be seen pods -filled with seeds of pepper, resembling millet, according to the first -of these writers, and like small beans, according to the -other.<a name="anc_xxiii_82" id="anc_xxiii_82"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_82"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_82]</span></a></p> - -<p>Our readers no doubt remember the importance which Apicius ascribes to -pepper, in the learned recipes of that skilful <i>Archimagirus</i>.</p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>VERJUICE.</h3> - -<p>Verjuice, the use of which is very ancient, was used more in -pharmaceutical preparations than in the seasoning of food.<a name="anc_xxiii_83" id="anc_xxiii_83"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_83"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_83]</span></a> -Galen attributes to it refreshing qualities, and advises it in certain -cases.<a name="anc_xxiii_84" id="anc_xxiii_84"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_84"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_84]</span></a></p> - -<p>Verjuice is a kind of grape, very acid, and which never gets perfectly -ripe. The <i>suc</i> of verjuice is used in medicine and culinary preparation -as an astringent. The juice is not proper to make wine, but a very -agreeable syrup is obtained from it.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_278" id="page_278"></a>{278}</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>VINEGAR.</h3> - -<p>The greater part of ancient nations were acquainted with the use of -vinegar. Reapers in the east soaked their bread in it, to freshen -it<a name="anc_xxiii_85" id="anc_xxiii_85"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_85"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_85]</span></a> The Greeks esteemed that of Cnide, of Sphette, of Cleone, -and above all the vinegar of Egypt,<a name="anc_xxiii_86" id="anc_xxiii_86"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_86"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_86]</span></a> which was reputed to be -the best among the Romans, who tempered its acrimony by mixing with it -some sweet substance.<a name="anc_xxiii_87" id="anc_xxiii_87"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_87"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_87]</span></a></p> - -<p>These masters of the world did not fancy they possessed all the comforts -of life when they wanted vinegar; therefore they always had a large -provision of it in their cellars, as all their seasonings -proved.<a name="anc_xxiii_88" id="anc_xxiii_88"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_88"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_88]</span></a></p> - -<p>This passion (for it certainly amounted to a passion) is easily -explained by the admirable qualities they attributed to the pungent -liquid. It was believed to be astringent, digestive, antibilious, -refreshing, and an antiscorbutic.<a name="anc_xxiii_89" id="anc_xxiii_89"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_89"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_89]</span></a> Mixed with water, it was the -drink of the soldiers,<a name="anc_xxiii_90" id="anc_xxiii_90"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_90"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_90]</span></a> who, thanks to this beverage, braved -the intemperance of the seasons and the different climates of Europe, -Africa, and Asia.</p> - -<p>The Greeks and Romans esteemed highly their pickles: these consisted of -flowers, herbs, roots, and vegetables, preserved in vinegar, and which -kept a long time in cylindrical vases with wide mouths.<a name="anc_xxiii_91" id="anc_xxiii_91"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_91"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_91]</span></a> They -were prepared with the greatest care; and these plants were often -macerated in oil, brine, and vinegar, with which they were impregnated -drop by drop.<a name="anc_xxiii_92" id="anc_xxiii_92"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_92"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_92]</span></a> Meat, also, cut in very small pieces, was -treated in the same manner.</p> - -<p>Vinegar of an exorbitant price was obtained from some precious wines, -and that price was again increased by the proverbial cupidity of some -butlers in great houses. We doubt much, however, whether any of those -worthy personages ever made such a bill as a certain French seigneur -dared to do under the reign of Louis XIII. It is said that the Duc de la -Meilleraye, grand master of the artillery of France, presented to the -minister a bill in which figured an article of 1,300,000 francs -(£52,000), for vinegar to cool the cannons! The sum appeared rather -large, but La Meilleraye was a near relation of Richelieu, and the -article passed without the least contestation.<a name="anc_xxiii_93" id="anc_xxiii_93"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_93"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_93]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_279" id="page_279"></a>{279}</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>TRUFFLE.</h3> - -<p>A truffled turkey was to be eaten at a dinner where Buffon was invited. -A few minutes before setting down to table, an elderly lady inquired of -the celebrated naturalist where the truffle grew. “At your feet, -madame.” The lady did not understand; but it was thus explained to her: -“<i>C’est au pied des charmes</i>” (yoke elm tree). The compliment appeared -to her most flattering. Towards the end of the dinner, some one asked -the same question of the illustrious writer, who, forgetting that the -lady was beside him, innocently replied: “They grow <i>aux pieds des vieux -charmes</i>” (old yoke elm trees). The lady overheard him, and no longer -thought anything of his amiability.</p> - -<p>Nevertheless Buffon was right. It was around the yoke elm trees of -Lampsachus, Acarnidea, Alopecomesia, and Elis, that those famous -truffles were discovered, whose reputation was spread in all parts and -which Italy envied Greece.<a name="anc_xxiii_94" id="anc_xxiii_94"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_94"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_94]</span></a></p> - -<p>The truffle! beloved treasure that the earth conceals within her -bosom—as she does the precious metals, which she seems to have yielded -grudgingly to the patient researches of the gastronomist; the magiric -records do not tell us at what memorable epoch this exquisite tubercle -astonished, for the first time, the palate of man; but a doubtful -tradition maintains that a vile animal (a pig), guided by his marvellous -gluttony, found out the existence of this pearl of banquets.</p> - -<p>Pliny was very much inclined to range the truffles amidst astonishing -prodigies. He fancied that he saw it at its birth increase without -roots, without the slightest fibre, without the least capillary vessel -likely to transmit to it nutritious juices;<a name="anc_xxiii_95" id="anc_xxiii_95"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_95"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_95]</span></a> therefore he -believed that, sown by thunder-bolts in the autumnal storms,<a name="anc_xxiii_96" id="anc_xxiii_96"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_96"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_96]</span></a> -this daughter of thunder grew like minerals by juxta-position, and -relates on this subject the history of Lartius Licinius, governor of -Spain, who, while biting a truffle with avidity, broke one of his teeth -against a Roman denarius which chance alone had inclosed within -it.<a name="anc_xxiii_97" id="anc_xxiii_97"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_97"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_97]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Greeks thought a great deal of a delicious species of truffles, -smooth outside, red within, which were found just under the surface of -the ground, and did not show the slightest appearance of -vegetation.<a name="anc_xxiii_98" id="anc_xxiii_98"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_98"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_98]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_280" id="page_280"></a>{280}</span> Another kind was also much sought after by -amateurs, probably on account of their scarcity. They were originally -from Africa, and called cyrenaïc, white outside, of an excellent -perfume, and exquisite flavour.<a name="anc_xxiii_99" id="anc_xxiii_99"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_99"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_99]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Athenians, enlightened appreciates of all sorts of merits, accepted -with gratitude a <i>ragoût</i> with truffles, invented by Cherips. That -culinary genius did not long enjoy his glory; a premature death carried -him off from his stoves, his honours, and his fortune; but the Greeks -did not bury their gratitude in his tomb; his sons became citizens of -Athens, and the name of their father, more fortunate than that of -Christopher Columbus, clung for ever to his brilliant -discovery.<a name="anc_xxiii_100" id="anc_xxiii_100"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_100"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_100]</span></a></p> - -<p>The doctors of other days did not exactly agree upon the quality either -good or bad of truffles. Philoxenes, whose opinion met with many -partisans, would have it that a great quantity should be eaten cooked -under the ashes, and deliciously impregnated with a succulent -sauce.<a name="anc_xxiii_101" id="anc_xxiii_101"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_101"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_101]</span></a> It was, however, recommended to choose them with the -most particular attention, because some had the reputation of being as -poisonous as mushrooms.<a name="anc_xxiii_102" id="anc_xxiii_102"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_102"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_102]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Romans were as fond of truffles as the Greeks, and that is not -saying little.<a name="anc_xxiii_103" id="anc_xxiii_103"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_103"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_103]</span></a> Apicius gives a method of preparing them which -is as follows:—</p> - -<p>After they are boiled in water, put a little stick through them, and -then place them for an instant before the fire; season them afterwards -with oil, a little meat gravy, some skirrets, wine, pepper, and honey, -in proper proportions. When the sauce is boiling, make a thickening, and -serve.<a name="anc_xxiii_104" id="anc_xxiii_104"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_104"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_104]</span></a></p> - -<p>The illustrious epicurean prepared them also with pepper, benzoin, -coriander and rue, to which he added a little honey, oil, and -gravy.<a name="anc_xxiii_105" id="anc_xxiii_105"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_105"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_105]</span></a></p> - -<p>The estimable Platina insists that, in the first place, truffles should -be washed in wine, and afterwards cooked under the ashes; and that they -be served hot, and sprinkled over with salt and pepper.<a name="anc_xxiii_106" id="anc_xxiii_106"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_106"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_106]</span></a></p> - -<p>This is the composition of a syrup of truffles, taken from the old -Arabian medicine. We believe it to be very little known, and should not -be surprised if it were, some day, to obtain the renown it seems to -deserve. It was composed of truffles, balm, and holy thistle, boiled in -water with sugar; and to each pound of the decoction was added one -scruple of water distilled from honey, and half an ounce of some -spirit—say, for example, spirits of wine—to each pound of liquor. The -whole<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_281" id="page_281"></a>{281}</span> was aromatised with musk and a little rose-water. Two ounces of -this syrup were administered hot,<a name="anc_xxiii_107" id="anc_xxiii_107"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_107"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_107]</span></a> in cases of weakness.</p> - -<p>Salmasius, who knew much of the Greek tongue, and very little of -cookery, avers that the ancients knew two different kinds of truffles. -One species was similar to ours, and the other a variety from Africa, -already mentioned, white outside and the size of a quince.<a name="anc_xxiii_108" id="anc_xxiii_108"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_108"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_108]</span></a> -Leo the African, says that the Arabs cook these truffles in milk, and -that they think them exquisite. Thereupon Salmasius exclaims against the -insipidity of this dish, or the ignorance of Leo the African; and -immediately points out, with an air of triumph, the celebrated Avicenna, -who informs us that, after the truffles were peeled and cut in small -pieces, they were cooked in water and salt, and then dished up with oil, -benzoin, and spices. Salmasius will have it that Avicenna’s truffles had -no other flavour than that given by the sauce, and he has no forgiveness -for those poor Arabs who dared to dress them otherwise.</p> - -<p>If this clever Hellenist had studied this savoury tubercle with as much -care as he bestowed on the writers of the history of Augustus, he would -have learned that the peculiar perfume which distinguishes it retains, -in the midst of seasoning the most laboriously prepared, the same power -it possesses when eaten by itself, and without any dressing.</p> - -<p>Apicius had less of literature than Salmasius, but he was most assuredly -gifted in a very superior degree with that <i>mens divinior</i> which makes -great cooks and illustrious poets. This assimilation has nothing -surprising in it, if we only remember that genius is nothing else than -the faculty of producing; and who ever bequeathed to posterity -productions more exquisite than those of Archestrates and Apicius?</p> - -<p>Let us hear from this latter how to preserve truffles. You must be -careful not to put them in contact with water; that is to say, that they -ought to be kept very dry. They are placed separately in vessels, and -covered with iron filings, or saw-dust. Close each vessel hermetically -with plaster, and keep them in a dark and cool place.<a name="anc_xxiii_109" id="anc_xxiii_109"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_109"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_109]</span></a></p> - -<p>The truffle is a very remarkable vegetable, which, without stems, roots, -or fibres, grows of itself, isolated in the bosom of the earth, -absorbing the nutritive juice. Its form is round, more or less regular; -its surface is smooth or tuberculous; the colour dark-brown outside, -brown, grey, or white within. Its tissue is formed of articulated -filaments, between which are spheric vesicles, and in the interior are -placed reproductive bodies, small brown spheres, called <i>truffinelles</i>. -Truffles vegetate to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_282" id="page_282"></a>{282}</span> the depth of five or six inches in the high sandy -soils of the south-west of France, of Piedmont, &c., &c. Their mode of -vegetation and reproduction is not known. Dogs are trained to find them, -as well as pigs, and boars also, who are very fond of them. They are -eaten cooked under the ashes, or in wine and water. They are preserved, -when prepared in oil, which is soon impregnated with their odour.</p> - -<p>Poultry is stuffed with them, also geese’s livers, pies, and cooked -pork, besides numerous <i>ragoûts</i>. They possess, it is said, exciting -virtues.</p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>MUSHROOMS.</h3> - -<p>Agrippina, desirous of securing the crown to her worthy son, Nero, went -to a celebrated female poisoner, and procured a venomous preparation -which defied the most powerful antidotes.<a name="anc_xxiii_110" id="anc_xxiii_110"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_110"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_110]</span></a> The Princess -slipped this terrible poison in a very fine <i>morel</i> (a species of -mushroom), which Claudius eat at his supper. The unfortunate Emperor -died according to the desire of his amiable consort, who was, of course, -inconsolable for a long time, and placed among the gods the husband she -had murdered.<a name="anc_xxiii_111" id="anc_xxiii_111"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_111"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_111]</span></a> Nero ascended the throne, and every time that -mushrooms were served at his table, true to the memory of his -father-in-law, he facetiously called this preparation the “dish of the -gods.”<a name="anc_xxiii_112" id="anc_xxiii_112"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_112"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_112]</span></a></p> - -<p>To the poisonous effects of this vegetable have been attributed, also, -the death of the Emperor Tiberius, that of Pope Clement VII., King -Charles VI. of France, and many other important personages, who either -knew very little of good cooks, or of <i>morels</i>. Notwithstanding these -tragical events, mushrooms always retained a proud position, among the -ancients, above the most inoffensive culinary plants; and their rather -doubtful reputation has not prevented them from maintaining their ground -down to our time, for we find that they now claim the same rank which -they formerly occupied in the gastronomic <i>réunions</i> of Athens and Rome: -a sad image of those fortunate criminals, whom society dreads, and yet -often loads with its favours.</p> - -<p>This “voluptuous poison,” as Seneca, the philosopher,<a name="anc_xxiii_113" id="anc_xxiii_113"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_113"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_113]</span></a> calls -it, which compels us to eat of it again, even when not -hungry,<a name="anc_xxiii_114" id="anc_xxiii_114"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_114"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_114]</span></a> was much relished by the wealthy inhabitants of Rome -and Italy. These free-livers,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_283" id="page_283"></a>{283}</span> careless of the morrow, preferred the -field mushroom,<a name="anc_xxiii_115" id="anc_xxiii_115"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_115"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_115]</span></a> which they devoured with delight, having -previously covered it over with a pungent sauce, which they afterwards -neutralized with various iced beverages.<a name="anc_xxiii_116" id="anc_xxiii_116"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_116"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_116]</span></a> It is true that this -dish, worthy of the gods, often inflicted a severe penalty on those who -yielded to its irresistible seduction; but what mortal could think of -the anguish of an uncertain poisoning, when he had the good luck to meet -with some <i>boleti</i>, or mushrooms, of the rarest description, which the -price of a beautiful toga would hardly have purchased,<a name="anc_xxiii_117" id="anc_xxiii_117"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_117"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_117]</span></a> and -which promised some mouthfuls of ineffable, although ephemeral -enjoyment? Besides, does not pleasure possess more piquant charms when -danger is attached to it? The greater part of mushrooms are very -dangerous, say the ancients;<a name="anc_xxiii_118" id="anc_xxiii_118"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_118"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_118]</span></a> but blind destiny, perhaps, -reserves for us certain kinds which are not so. Re-assured by this -judicious reflection, they gave orders to their cooks to stew -some,<a name="anc_xxiii_119" id="anc_xxiii_119"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_119"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_119]</span></a> and season them with vinegar, oxymel, and -honey.<a name="anc_xxiii_120" id="anc_xxiii_120"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_120"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_120]</span></a></p> - -<p>However, reasonable people—and there were still some to be -found—abstained entirely from this vegetable, or procured it by the -method which Nicander recommends; that is to say, they frequently -watered the trunk of a fig tree after manure had been placed around it. -That philosopher assures us that by these means we may grow mushrooms -perfectly wholesome.<a name="anc_xxiii_121" id="anc_xxiii_121"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiii_121"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIII_121]</span></a></p> - -<p>Those of our readers who are in possession of fig trees will be able to -give their opinion on the merit of Nicander’s method.</p> - -<p>To obtain the seeds of most mushrooms, it only requires to expose them, -when fresh, upon glass; the superficies of the glass is soon covered -with it. It is also obtained by shaking in the water the mushrooms which -are sufficiently developed. This water, thus impregnated, is used to -water the beds, which become thereby more productive.</p> - -<p>The natural supply of mushrooms from the fields not being thought -sufficient, the art of raising them on beds during the whole year was -therefore indispensable, and required a mixture of <i>crottin de cheval</i>, -rotten dung, and mould, which is deposited in layers of one foot and -a-half in thickness and width. Seeds of mushrooms are sown on these -beds—that is to say, some of the mould of a former bog impregnated with -it. It is then covered over with all the dung not consumed, and then -copiously watered.</p> - -<p>“At the end of a very few days, the beds begin to produce mushrooms, and -keep on producing until the winter.”—<span class="smcap">Bosc.</span><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_284" id="page_284"></a>{284}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="XXIV" id="XXIV"></a>XXIV.<br /><br /> -PASTRY.</h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">The</span> art of the pastry-cook consists in preparing certain delicate and -nice pastes in all sorts of shapes, in seasoning them with discretion, -and in sufficient quantity, with meat, butter, sugar, preserves, -&c.<a name="anc_xxiv_1" id="anc_xxiv_1"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiv_1"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIV_1]</span></a> It is a most important branch of the culinary science; -unceasingly occupied with flattering the sight as much as the taste, it -raises graceful monuments, delicious fortresses, seductive ramparts, -which as soon as they are on all sides attacked, totter, crumble, and no -longer present anything but glorious and ephemeral ruins, like every -other work of man—all pass away whether they be temples, columns, -pyramids, or pies.</p> - -<p>This charming art was known to ancient nations as soon as their -intellectual development had enabled them to understand a certain -gastronomic truth, long since become a trivial axiom, and of which we -dare scarcely remind the reader: “<i>On ne mange pour vivre que lorsqu’on -ne sait pas vivre pour manger.</i>” (People only eat to live when they do -not understand how to live to eat.)</p> - -<p>The oriental nations were acquainted with the art of making pastry at a -very early period. The Egyptians served many different sorts of cakes at -their tables;<a name="anc_xxiv_2" id="anc_xxiv_2"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiv_2"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIV_2]</span></a> the Jews knew of at least three kinds—one sort -kneaded with oil, another fried in oil, and the last was merely rubbed -over with oil.<a name="anc_xxiv_3" id="anc_xxiv_3"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiv_3"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIV_3]</span></a></p> - -<p>The enlightened gluttony of the Greeks and Romans inspired them with a -host of combinations more or less ingenious, and destined to revive a -failing appetite, or one already greatly compromised by vigorous -onslaughts.</p> - -<p>Some of these pastries would appear very nice to us in the present<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_285" id="page_285"></a>{285}</span> day; -others we should think but little worthy of the epicures of Rome and -Athens. However, let us not be in too great a hurry to condemn these -great masters. Doubtless they had excellent reasons to like that which -modern taste may despise and dislike. In return, they might have thought -some of our most fashionable dishes detestable; perhaps Apicius might -have made a strange grimace at the sight of a dish of sour-crout, an -olla-podrida, or an immense plum-pudding.</p> - -<p><i>Oublies</i>, a light dainty for those who have weak stomachs, were thin -sheets of paste composed of flour and honey, which rolled into a spiral -form as soon as they approached the oven. They were eaten soaked in -cooked wine.<a name="anc_xxiv_4" id="anc_xxiv_4"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiv_4"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIV_4]</span></a> Persons of taste preferred <i>oublies</i> to fritters—a -bold mixture of flour kneaded with wine, seasoned with pepper, and then -worked up with milk, and, finally, with a little fat or oil.<a name="anc_xxiv_5" id="anc_xxiv_5"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiv_5"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIV_5]</span></a></p> - -<p>Some cooks employed the finest flour only, mixed with oil, and served -this paste after having cooked it in a dish.<a name="anc_xxiv_6" id="anc_xxiv_6"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiv_6"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIV_6]</span></a> Others worked -sesame flour a long time with honey and oil, and fried it.<a name="anc_xxiv_7" id="anc_xxiv_7"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiv_7"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIV_7]</span></a> These -various kinds of fritters were, doubtless, much sought after by the -populace, for Cicero speaks of them with profound disdain.<a name="anc_xxiv_8" id="anc_xxiv_8"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiv_8"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIV_8]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Jews, less dainty than the eloquent orator, offered some of this -paste in sacrifice. The recipe for its composition is given in -Leviticus; it was made of the finest flour, moistened with oil, and -cooked in the frying-pan.<a name="anc_xxiv_9" id="anc_xxiv_9"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiv_9"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIV_9]</span></a></p> - -<p>Women and children—those two fragile roots of society—were always fond -of sweet and delicate cakes. The pastry-cooks of Attica prepared for -them some very excellent kinds; sometimes it was merely a sweet mixture -of honey and milk;<a name="anc_xxiv_10" id="anc_xxiv_10"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiv_10"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIV_10]</span></a> others were made of honey, sesame flour, and -cheese or oil.<a name="anc_xxiv_11" id="anc_xxiv_11"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiv_11"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIV_11]</span></a> Delicious fruit was frequently covered with a -light and perfumed paste.<a name="anc_xxiv_12" id="anc_xxiv_12"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiv_12"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIV_12]</span></a> These Athenian dumplings met with a -great success.</p> - -<p>Rome made the conquest of these precious recipes,<a name="anc_xxiv_13" id="anc_xxiv_13"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiv_13"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIV_13]</span></a> and -vanquished Greece, conquered by her, had still the glory of dictating -laws to her haughty enemy: she imposed her cookery.</p> - -<p>Gingerbread was not unknown to the ancients. Rhodes owed its reputation -to it. It was sweetened with honey, and that island furnished it to the -whole of Europe. The Greeks called this delicacy <i>Melitates</i>, and eat it -with pleasure at the close of their repasts.<a name="anc_xxiv_14" id="anc_xxiv_14"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiv_14"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIV_14]</span></a></p> - -<p>Let us not forget, in this rapid survey of ancient sweets, that learned -and exquisite mixture now designated under the name of <i>Nougat</i>, which,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_286" id="page_286"></a>{286}</span> -among the Greeks was composed of dried currants and almonds, and which -has lost none of its attractions, nothing of its celebrity, after so -many centuries.<a name="anc_xxiv_15" id="anc_xxiv_15"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiv_15"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIV_15]</span></a></p> - -<p>The <i>Mustaceum</i> did not deserve to occupy so high a standing; and yet -this rustic cake, composed of sweet wine and flour, a symbol of -abundance and happiness, never failed to be presented to the guests at a -wedding repast, and the newly-married pair sent a piece of it to each of -their absent parents or friends, who, in return, addressed them -congratulations, and wishes for their happiness.<a name="anc_xxiv_16" id="anc_xxiv_16"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiv_16"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIV_16]</span></a> The mustaceum -was the wedding-cake of the Romans.</p> - -<p>Modern civilization has also rejected with equal disdain the <i>Savillum</i> -pie, always eaten with pleasure by the voluptuous inhabitants of Rome -when they went to their villas in order to rest from their prodigious -excesses, and from the fatigues of intemperance. This nourishing and -agreeable dish required but little art in its composition. Half-a-pound -of flour and two pounds and a-half of cheese were well mixed together; -three ounces of honey and one egg were then added. When the whole had -been well beaten, it was placed in an earthen vessel rubbed over with -oil, and which was covered with a tart dish cover. It was carefully -watched to see that the process of cooking was going on; afterwards it -was taken from the dish, the pie was smeared with honey, and, for an -instant, replaced under the tart-dish cover, after having dredged the -top with pounded poppy seed. It was always served in the dish in which -it had been cooked, and was eaten with spoons.<a name="anc_xxiv_17" id="anc_xxiv_17"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiv_17"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIV_17]</span></a></p> - -<p>We have already mentioned the <i>Artocreas</i>, a kind of hashed meat mixed -with bread, which Rome borrowed from Greece, together with its original -name. This pie, welcomed by modern gastrophagy, has reached our days -with merely some slight modifications, and deprived of its sonorous -Hellenic appellation.<a name="anc_xxiv_18" id="anc_xxiv_18"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiv_18"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIV_18]</span></a> Formerly the Roman Emperors, for the -greater part, ruled badly; but, in return, they eat well. In that -gastronomic era—gone, never to return—Cæsar’s supper engaged the -attention of the court, the city, nay, the whole empire. The conquered -universe furnished the details for a banquet, and a royal hand sometimes -deigned to write the ordinance. Now and then, even the monarch, wrapped -in profound culinary meditations, long reflected, dictated to his -<i>Archimagirus</i> a new dish, on which complaisant senators the next day -bestowed enthusiastic praises and a sincere admiration. Thus the Emperor -Verus, inventor of a pie, barely escaped an apotheosis of which<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_287" id="page_287"></a>{287}</span> his -genius was deemed worthy. It is true that, without any exaggerated -flattery, this pie was excellent, and that never was there imagined a -more happy mixture, a more ingenious combination, of meats, or a more -refined flavour. If any one be curious enough to wish to test this -imperial dish, let him prepare a succulent amalgamation of sow’s flank -(<i>sumen</i>), pheasant, peacock, iced ham, and wild boar’s flesh; let him -inclose this mixture within the thick casing of a laboriously worked -crust, and he may attack this kingly dish when a gentle and slow cooking -causes it to emit burning yet sweet emanations.<a name="anc_xxiv_19" id="anc_xxiv_19"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiv_19"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIV_19]</span></a></p> - -<p>Here is a more modest recipe for a cake; but then it does not claim the -paternity of an emperor. However, Cato brought it much into fashion, for -the wise Cato often busied himself in the science of cookery, for which -reason he is greatly worthy of esteem. Well, we recommend to the reader -the <i>Libum</i> of that philosopher, who indicates the manner of preparing -it:—</p> - -<p>“Crush,” he says, “two pounds of cheese; mix with it a pound of rye -flour, or, in order to render it lighter, throw in merely half a pound -of wheat flour and an egg. Stir, mix, and work this paste; form of it a -cake which you will place on leaves, and cook in a tart dish on the hot -hearth.” This libum was much esteemed about twenty centuries ago; in -honour of Cato may it again be brought to light, if not completely -unworthy of our attention.<a name="anc_xxiv_20" id="anc_xxiv_20"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiv_20"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIV_20]</span></a> Could we not also rehabilitate the -reputation of the most celebrated of ancient pies, the <i>Placenta</i>, which -so delighted mankind, and by which the gods even allowed their fury to -be appeased?<a name="anc_xxiv_21" id="anc_xxiv_21"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiv_21"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIV_21]</span></a> Renowned writers have granted it the authority of -their praise;<a name="anc_xxiv_22" id="anc_xxiv_22"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiv_22"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIV_22]</span></a> and the illustrious geoponist, already cited, -describes with lengthened complaisance the manner of preparing this -important dish:—</p> - -<p>“Place, on one side, two pounds of rye flour, which will serve to form -the foundation, on which must be placed biscuits, formed of crisp paste; -on the other, put four pounds of wheat; and two pounds of alica (grains -of fine wheat, stripped of their husks and crushed; to which was added, -in order to whiten them, a peculiar kind of chalk found between Naples -and Pouzzoli<a name="anc_xxiv_23" id="anc_xxiv_23"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiv_23"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIV_23]</span></a>). This latter must be left to infuse in water, -and, when well soaked, it must be thrown into a kneading trough, and -well worked with the hand. You then mix with it the four pounds of wheat -flour, in order to make the whole into biscuits, or dry marchpans. This -paste must be worked in a basket, and, as it dries, each separate -marchpan must be shaped. When they have acquired a convenient form, rub<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_288" id="page_288"></a>{288}</span> -them on all sides with a piece of stuff soaked in oil, and the same must -be done to the foundation of the placenta before placing the marchpans -on it. During these preparations, make the hearth very hot, as well as -the cover of the tart dish intended to cook it. Then spread the two -pounds of rye flour you have in reserve over fourteen pounds of cheese -of sheep’s milk. Make of this a light paste for the foundation already -mentioned. This cheese ought to be very fresh, and previously soaked in -three waters. It is allowed to drain slowly between the hands, and when -it has been left to dry, it is kneaded. Take a flour sieve, and pass the -cheese through it before mixing it with the rye. Then add four pounds -and a half of good honey; mix well; place the foundation, furnished with -its band, on a board a foot square, covered with bay leaves rubbed with -oil, and form the placenta. Begin by covering the whole of the base with -a layer of marchpans, which you place one after the other, and cover -slightly with cheese mixed with honey. Finally, you arrange the -marchpans on the foundation, and prepare the hearth to a moderate degree -of heat; place the placenta on it; cover it with the tart dish cover -already heated, and spread live charcoal underneath and all around. The -cooking must be done very slowly, and as soon as the pie is taken from -the hearth, it must be rubbed with honey.”<a name="anc_xxiv_24" id="anc_xxiv_24"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiv_24"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIV_24]</span></a></p> - -<p>The great desire we had to inform the reader of some of the methods of -making ancient pastry will, perhaps, induce him to receive with -indulgence the rather diffuse recipe of the worthy Cato. The following -is much more concise; it relates to the relishing <i>Globi</i>, little -globes, or balls, eaten at dessert:</p> - -<p>Mix cheese and alica, and of this mixture make the globi, which cook one -after the other, or two at a time, in boiling oil. Stir them constantly -with a spoon; take them out; rub them over with honey, and serve, having -previously dredged over them a little poppy-seed.<a name="anc_xxiv_25" id="anc_xxiv_25"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiv_25"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIV_25]</span></a></p> - -<p>Everyone will confess that all these cakes are inferior to the simple -and elegant pastry with which the inhabitants of Picenum (marshes of -Ancona) regaled themselves. They placed some alica to soak in water, and -left it there for the space of nine days; the tenth day they kneaded it, -and formed it into round, flat cakes, which they cooked in the oven in -earthen baking-dishes easily broken. When these kind of biscuits were to -be eaten, they were first softened in milk and honey.<a name="anc_xxiv_26" id="anc_xxiv_26"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiv_26"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIV_26]</span></a></p> - -<p>Apicius also made globi of great delicacy with the crumb of fine<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_289" id="page_289"></a>{289}</span> bread, -shaped into balls, which were left to soak in milk, and which, on their -being withdrawn from the boiling oil, he lightly covered with -honey.<a name="anc_xxiv_27" id="anc_xxiv_27"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiv_27"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIV_27]</span></a></p> - -<p>We conclude with three recipes by this amateur cook, in the hope that -they may appear worthy of his genius:—</p> - -<p>“Mix pine nuts, pepper, honey, rue, and cooked wine; cover with eggs -well beaten; submit this mixture to a slow fire, and serve, after having -smeared it with honey.”<a name="anc_xxiv_28" id="anc_xxiv_28"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiv_28"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIV_28]</span></a></p> - -<p>“Cook the finest flour in some milk, of which make a tolerably stiff -paste; spread it on a dish; cut it in pieces, which, when you have fried -in very fine oil, cover with pepper and honey.”<a name="anc_xxiv_29" id="anc_xxiv_29"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiv_29"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIV_29]</span></a></p> - -<p>“Make a compact mixture of milk, honey, and eggs; let it cook very -slowly, and serve, after having sprinkled over it a little -pepper.”<a name="anc_xxiv_30" id="anc_xxiv_30"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiv_30"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIV_30]</span></a></p> - -<p>These details will, we hope, give a sufficient idea of ancient pastry. -We must remember that these recipes form, as it were, the starting -point. The oil fritter of the Hebrews and the meringues of our period -are wide apart: more than thirty-three centuries separate the two; two -thousand years have elapsed since Cato wrote the recipe for his somewhat -heavy tart. The author of the “Culinary Art,” Apicius himself, is very -old. The private life of the ancient people appears to be worthy of -serious study; but we too often only bestow on it our disdain. The -author of this work has observed their customs in the kitchen and in the -dining-room—the only places to which he had access—and he has taken -the liberty of writing the result of his investigations. Sometimes he -admires, but never does he despise, a civilisation different to our own, -but which was not without its good side. He conjures the reader to -believe him when he says, that whatever eccentricities the gastronomy of -ancient nations may present to us, those people (he has, perhaps, -acquired the right to venture such an assertion) doubtless eat in a very -different manner from ourselves; but they certainly knew how to eat.</p> - -<p>The pastry just mentioned is certainly not altogether -irreproachable—that is clear; but many kinds reveal that exquisite -sentiment of the good which is nothing else than taste—whether it -relate to art, literature or cooking—and the entire development of -which seems to have been the appurtenance of a small number of -privileged centuries. Great epochs—such as those of Pericles, Augustus, -Leo XII., Louis XIV., and Queen Anne—have seen roses and myrtles -flourish by the side of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_290" id="page_290"></a>{290}</span> laurels with which the muses are crowned. -Charles XII. was fond of tartlets; Frederic II. gave himself fits of -indigestion by eating Savoy cakes; and the Maréchal de Saxe rested from -the fatigues of glory before a plate of macaroons.</p> - -<p>We have renounced the kind of pastry with which our ancestors used to -regale themselves in the 14th century. Their stag pies<a name="anc_xxiv_31" id="anc_xxiv_31"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiv_31"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIV_31]</span></a> are no -longer in vogue; neither have we any taste for their great pies which -contained a lamb or a stuffed kid, surrounded with goslings by dozens -and scores.<a name="anc_xxiv_32" id="anc_xxiv_32"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiv_32"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIV_32]</span></a></p> - -<p>Their tarts have fallen into the same oblivion. Who thinks now of their -Janus, or double-faced, tarts, herb tarts, rose-leaf tarts, oat tarts, -or chesnut tarts?<a name="anc_xxiv_33" id="anc_xxiv_33"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiv_33"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIV_33]</span></a></p> - -<p>The first statutes given to the pastry cooks by St. Louis (May, 1270), -sanctioned their custom of working on all festival days without -exception. Now, the motive for such a toleration was probably this: the -pagans had their festivals, which they passed in banqueting; the Romans -called them <i>dies epulatæ</i>.<a name="anc_xxiv_34" id="anc_xxiv_34"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiv_34"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIV_34]</span></a> The early Christians, although they -gave up the worship of false gods, preserved certain customs in which -they had been brought up, among which was that of public and private -banquets on festival days.<a name="anc_xxiv_35" id="anc_xxiv_35"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiv_35"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIV_35]</span></a> We still see some remains of these -customs in the village rejoicings on the Continent, on the day of their -patron saint. The Fathers of the Church and the Councils raised their -voices against this abuse;<a name="anc_xxiv_36" id="anc_xxiv_36"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiv_36"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIV_36]</span></a> but they were obliged to tolerate -it, and the pastry-cooks, who were very busy on those occasions, -profited by the indulgence. It is as well to remark that they were, at -one and the same time, publicans, roasters (that is, they would roast -anything for anybody), and cooks.</p> - -<p>Under the ministry of the Chancelier de l’Hôpital, little pies, or -patties, were hawked through all the streets of Paris, and there was an -enormous consumption of them. The severe minister considered them a -luxury, which it was incumbent upon him to suppress; so he prohibited, -not their sale, but the crying of them, as a temptation to gluttony.</p> - -<p>There is a kind of cake much in vogue in England, on Good Friday, -designated hot-cross-bun, because it is always marked with a cross. The -reader will, perhaps, take some interest in the observations of Bryant -on the subject of this pastry:—</p> - -<p>“The offerings,” says he, “which people in ancient times used to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_291" id="page_291"></a>{291}</span> -present to the gods were generally purchased at the entrance of the -temple; especially every species of consecrated bread, which was -denominated accordingly. One species of sacred bread which used to be -offered to the gods was of great antiquity, and called <i>Boun</i>.” It was a -kind of cake, with a representation of two horns. Julius Pollux mentions -it after the same manner—a sort of cake with horns. Diogenes Laertius, -speaking of the same offering being made by Empedocles, describes the -chief ingredients of which it was composed:—“He offered one of the -sacred <i>liba</i>, called a <i>bonse</i> (<i>bons</i>), which was made of fine flour -and honey.”<a name="anc_xxiv_37" id="anc_xxiv_37"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiv_37"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIV_37]</span></a> England seems, then, to have retained the name and -the form of the ancient <i>bons</i>, though the people do not recognise in -the bun anything sacred or holy.</p> - -<p>Titus Livy said, in speaking of Rome, “The greatest things have small -beginnings.” This applies equally to pastry, which appears so unworthy -of attention at the commencement of the middle ages that nothing seems -to announce its high destiny. At first, in the southern provinces, -people simply mixed flour, oil, and honey. The Roman school was still in -force. The inhabitants of the north had a mind to innovate; they -employed eggs, butter, and salt. Then came the idea of inclosing within -this paste cooked meat, seasoned with bacon and spices; and, from -progress to progress, they at last inclosed cream, fruit, and -marmalades.<a name="anc_xxiv_38" id="anc_xxiv_38"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiv_38"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIV_38]</span></a></p> - -<p>We find pastry mentioned for the first time in a charter of -Louis-le-Débonnaire (802). It is there said that a certain farm of the -Abbey of St. Denis is to furnish, at certain festivals, sixteen measures -of honey, eleven hundred oxen, and five hogsheads of flour to make -pastry.<a name="anc_xxiv_39" id="anc_xxiv_39"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiv_39"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIV_39]</span></a></p> - -<p>A charter of the church of Paris, 1202, mentions simnels or wigs, under -the name of “<i>panes leves qui dicuntur echaudati</i>.” Joinville speaks, in -“The life of St. Louis,” of cheese fritters cooked in the sun, which the -Saracens presented to that king and his knights when they restored them -to liberty. And, finally, so early as the 13th century, the <i>flans</i> of -Chartres, the patties of Paris, and the tarts of Dourlans, were in great -renown; and a charter of 1301 informs us that, at that epoch, several -lords imposed on their vassals a tribute of <i>fugués</i>, or -puff-pastry.<a name="anc_xxiv_40" id="anc_xxiv_40"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiv_40"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIV_40]</span></a></p> - -<p>The cook of Charles V. says, that the word <i>tourte</i> signified a -household loaf of a round form; that this name was afterwards given to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_292" id="page_292"></a>{292}</span> -delicate pastry; and that, by corruption, it was called <i>tart</i> in -certain provinces.<a name="anc_xxiv_41" id="anc_xxiv_41"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiv_41"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIV_41]</span></a></p> - -<p>Taillevant speaks of cream, almonds, and rose-water, as the -accompaniments of <i>Darioles</i>, a kind of custard; and of <i>Talmouses</i>, a -sort of cheese-cake, made of cheese, eggs, and butter, coloured with the -yolks of eggs.<a name="anc_xxiv_42" id="anc_xxiv_42"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiv_42"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIV_42]</span></a></p> - -<p>Platina cites tarts made with radishes, quinces, gourds, elder-berry -flowers, rice, oatmeal, millet, chesnuts, cherries, dates, May-herbs, -roses, and, lastly, the white, or cream tart.<a name="anc_xxiv_43" id="anc_xxiv_43"></a><a href="#footnote-xxiv_43"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIV_43]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_293" id="page_293"></a>{293}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="XXV" id="XXV"></a>XXV.<br /><br /> -WATER.</h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">Thales</span>, who borrowed from Egypt the elements of philosophy, which he -afterwards spread in Greece, taught that water is the vivifying -principle of all things; that nature is thereby made fruitful; that -without it the earth, arid and laid waste, would be a frightful desert, -where every effort of man to support his existence must fail.<a name="anc_xxv_1" id="anc_xxv_1"></a><a href="#footnote-xxv_1"><span class="fnanchor">[XXV_1]</span></a></p> - -<p>These ideas, for a long time adopted by Pagan theology, peopled -fountains, rivers, and seas, with divinities, and often confounded in -the same worship those gods, sons of gratitude, with the limpid waters -consecrated to them.</p> - -<p>The Persians carried their veneration for this element so far, that they -dared not wash their hands, and would have preferred being consumed to -the very bone rather than dip themselves in a river.<a name="anc_xxv_2" id="anc_xxv_2"></a><a href="#footnote-xxv_2"><span class="fnanchor">[XXV_2]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Cappadocians were proud of treading in the same path.<a name="anc_xxv_3" id="anc_xxv_3"></a><a href="#footnote-xxv_3"><span class="fnanchor">[XXV_3]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Egyptians offered prayers and homage to water.<a name="anc_xxv_4" id="anc_xxv_4"></a><a href="#footnote-xxv_4"><span class="fnanchor">[XXV_4]</span></a> The Nile, in -particular, received their adorations under the name of <i>Ypeus</i>, or -<i>Siris</i>, and they offered to it—as a sacrifice—barley, wheat, sugar, -and fruit.<a name="anc_xxv_5" id="anc_xxv_5"></a><a href="#footnote-xxv_5"><span class="fnanchor">[XXV_5]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Scythians honoured the Danube on account of its vast extent; the -Thessalians prostrated themselves before the majestic shores of the -Peneus; the ancient combat of Achelous with Hercules made it sacred to -the Ætolians; by a special law, the Lacedæmonians were compelled to -implore the Eurotas; and a religious precept forced the Athenians to -incense in honour of the Ilissus.<a name="anc_xxv_6" id="anc_xxv_6"></a><a href="#footnote-xxv_6"><span class="fnanchor">[XXV_6]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Greeks and Romans did not fail to follow such good examples. The -fountains and rivers had their altars. The Rhine was called a god; and -when Æneas arrived in Italy, he prayed it might be favourable to -him.<a name="anc_xxv_7" id="anc_xxv_7"></a><a href="#footnote-xxv_7"><span class="fnanchor">[XXV_7]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_294" id="page_294"></a>{294}</span></p> - -<p>However strange such superstition may appear, it is, nevertheless, -conceivable that Paganism, struck with wonder at the flux and reflux of -the sea, and at the phenomena presented by several celebrated springs, -and seduced by the charming fictions of doubtful poesy, should have -deified an element both beneficial and terrible, since it could not cry -out with the prophet king: “The Lord on high is mightier than the noise -of many waters, yea than the mighty waves of the sea.”<a name="anc_xxv_8" id="anc_xxv_8"></a><a href="#footnote-xxv_8"><span class="fnanchor">[XXV_8]</span></a></p> - -<p>Thence came the innumerable number of tutelary gods to which the Ocean -alone gave an asylum. By Thetis it became the father of the seventy-two -Oceanides, and the fifty Nereides called it their grandfather. Hesiod -numbered three thousand nymphs, and he probably forgot a few of them. We -say nothing of the Naiades, the Napææ, the Limnades, and so many others -whom fable was pleased to recognise, and whom it described as joyfully -disporting in the water.</p> - -<p>Greece exhausted the treasures of its poetical imagination to embellish -her fountains, beloved retreats of the timid Naiades. Several were -remarkable for the beauty of their architecture and the extreme delicacy -of their execution.</p> - -<p>Megara, in Achaia, possessed one celebrated for its magnificence. That -of Pirene, at Corinth, was surrounded with white marble, in which were -placed grottoes which unceasingly supplied a vast and superb basin. -Another fountain of Corinth, named Lerna, offered to loungers an elegant -portico, under which some very commodious seats allowed them to enjoy, -during summer, the freshness which the water communicated to the -atmosphere.</p> - -<p>In the sacred wood of Æsculapius, at Epidaurus, a splendid fountain was -seen whose marvellous beauty attracted all eyes.<a name="anc_xxv_9" id="anc_xxv_9"></a><a href="#footnote-xxv_9"><span class="fnanchor">[XXV_9]</span></a> Lastly, those of -Messina, known under the names of Arsinoe and of Clepsydra, yielded -nothing in richness of material and finish of details to the most -renowned monuments of Greece.</p> - -<p>The Athenians named four officers to keep watch and ward over the -water.<a name="anc_xxv_10" id="anc_xxv_10"></a><a href="#footnote-xxv_10"><span class="fnanchor">[XXV_10]</span></a> The other Greek towns followed the example. These -officers had to keep the fountains in order and clean the -reservoirs,<a name="anc_xxv_11" id="anc_xxv_11"></a><a href="#footnote-xxv_11"><span class="fnanchor">[XXV_11]</span></a> so that the water might be preserved pure and -limpid.</p> - -<p>The Romans at first contented themselves with water from the Tiber. King -Ancus Martius<a name="anc_xxv_12" id="anc_xxv_12"></a><a href="#footnote-xxv_12"><span class="fnanchor">[XXV_12]</span></a> was the first<a name="anc_xxv_13" id="anc_xxv_13"></a><a href="#footnote-xxv_13"><span class="fnanchor">[XXV_13]</span></a> to build aqueducts, destined -to convey the water of the fountain of Piconia from Tibur to Rome, a -distance of about thirty-three thousand paces. Some have honoured<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_295" id="page_295"></a>{295}</span> the -censor, Appius Claudius, for this magnificent undertaking,<a name="anc_xxv_14" id="anc_xxv_14"></a><a href="#footnote-xxv_14"><span class="fnanchor">[XXV_14]</span></a> to -whom is certainly due the celebrated Appian Way.<a name="anc_xxv_15" id="anc_xxv_15"></a><a href="#footnote-xxv_15"><span class="fnanchor">[XXV_15]</span></a> These gigantic -works greatly multiplied in time. Under the reign of Nero, Rome had nine -principal aqueducts<a name="anc_xxv_16" id="anc_xxv_16"></a><a href="#footnote-xxv_16"><span class="fnanchor">[XXV_16]</span></a> constructed, the pipes of which were of -bricks, baked tiles, stone, lead, or wood.<a name="anc_xxv_17" id="anc_xxv_17"></a><a href="#footnote-xxv_17"><span class="fnanchor">[XXV_17]</span></a></p> - -<p>According to the calculation of Vigenerus,<a name="anc_xxv_18" id="anc_xxv_18"></a><a href="#footnote-xxv_18"><span class="fnanchor">[XXV_18]</span></a> 500,000 hogsheads of -water were conveyed into Rome every twenty-four hours, by 10,850 small -channels, the internal circumference of which was one inch. The water -was received in large closed basins, above which were raised splendid -monuments. These basins—or <i>châteaux d’eau</i>—<i>castella -Aquarum</i>—supplied other subterraneous conduits connected with the -various quarters of the town,<a name="anc_xxv_19" id="anc_xxv_19"></a><a href="#footnote-xxv_19"><span class="fnanchor">[XXV_19]</span></a> which conveyed water to small -reservoirs—<i>fontes</i>—furnished with taps, for the exclusive use of -certain streets.<a name="anc_xxv_20" id="anc_xxv_20"></a><a href="#footnote-xxv_20"><span class="fnanchor">[XXV_20]</span></a> The water which was not drinkable ran out by -means of large pipes into extensive inclosures, where it served to water -cattle. At these places the people washed their linen, and here, too, -they had a ready resource in case of fire.<a name="anc_xxv_21" id="anc_xxv_21"></a><a href="#footnote-xxv_21"><span class="fnanchor">[XXV_21]</span></a></p> - -<p>Augustus created water commissaries, who took care that all water coming -into Rome by the aqueducts was fairly distributed in every public place, -and to those of the inhabitants who had obtained the privilege of having -it enter their houses.<a name="anc_xxv_22" id="anc_xxv_22"></a><a href="#footnote-xxv_22"><span class="fnanchor">[XXV_22]</span></a></p> - -<p>But the “ingenious thirst”<a name="anc_xxv_23" id="anc_xxv_23"></a><a href="#footnote-xxv_23"><span class="fnanchor">[XXV_23]</span></a> of the conquerors of the world could -not content itself with a delicious water which nature furnished free of -expense. Was it not too much for human endurance, that not only the air -and the sun could not be offered to the highest bidder,<a name="anc_xxv_24" id="anc_xxv_24"></a><a href="#footnote-xxv_24"><span class="fnanchor">[XXV_24]</span></a> but that -the same spring was to quench the thirst of obscure plebeians on equal -terms with the rich patrician?</p> - -<p>Intemperance and luxury very soon contrived to find excellent means of -remedying a state of things so intolerable. The custom of preserving -snow in cellars, to obtain cool beverages, is very old. Aristotle -pointed out the method of boiling water, and putting the vessel -afterwards in snow, in order to obtain ice. Rome had recourse to this -expedient, which was afterwards replaced with advantage, under Nero, by -constructing ice houses for the use of opulent epicureans.<a name="anc_xxv_25" id="anc_xxv_25"></a><a href="#footnote-xxv_25"><span class="fnanchor">[XXV_25]</span></a></p> - -<p>This even was not enough for voluptuous Romans, slaves to their strange -caprices; their beverages did not appear to them as yet sufficiently -cool,<a name="anc_xxv_26" id="anc_xxv_26"></a><a href="#footnote-xxv_26"><span class="fnanchor">[XXV_26]</span></a> and the summit of the Alps was put under contribution to -furnish ice for the fashionable tables of the imperial city.<a name="anc_xxv_27" id="anc_xxv_27"></a><a href="#footnote-xxv_27"><span class="fnanchor">[XXV_27]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_296" id="page_296"></a>{296}</span></p> - -<p>The Romans were also frequently supplied with snow water,<a name="anc_xxv_28" id="anc_xxv_28"></a><a href="#footnote-xxv_28"><span class="fnanchor">[XXV_28]</span></a> -clarified by being passed through the <i>colum nivarium</i>, or snow -cullender,<a name="anc_xxv_29" id="anc_xxv_29"></a><a href="#footnote-xxv_29"><span class="fnanchor">[XXV_29]</span></a> a charming little utensil of silver, pierced with a -great number of holes, through which the iced beverage passed into a -recipient beneath. This drink was sometimes mortal, but always -exquisite.<a name="anc_xxv_30" id="anc_xxv_30"></a><a href="#footnote-xxv_30"><span class="fnanchor">[XXV_30]</span></a> From this vessel, it was poured into an <i>ampula</i>, or -a sort of crystal bottle of rotund form, which was often enormously dear -on account of the elaborate chasing with which it was -embellished.<a name="anc_xxv_31" id="anc_xxv_31"></a><a href="#footnote-xxv_31"><span class="fnanchor">[XXV_31]</span></a> This water bottle, with its long and narrow neck, -was the principal ornament of the sideboards and tables, when it bore -the name of some skilful artist from Campania or the Island of -Samos.<a name="anc_xxv_32" id="anc_xxv_32"></a><a href="#footnote-xxv_32"><span class="fnanchor">[XXV_32]</span></a> -<a name="anc_o" id="anc_o"></a><a href="#footnote_o"><span class="fnanchor">[O]</span></a></p> - -<p>Iced beverage lost all its charm at the end of the fine season, and hot -water took its place during winter.<a name="anc_xxv_33" id="anc_xxv_33"></a><a href="#footnote-xxv_33"><span class="fnanchor">[XXV_33]</span></a> The same custom existed in -Greece in the best classes of society.<a name="anc_xxv_34" id="anc_xxv_34"></a><a href="#footnote-xxv_34"><span class="fnanchor">[XXV_34]</span></a> At Rome, it was much more -general, for there were a great number of taverns, where the middle -classes and citizens of the lowest order gorged themselves copiously -with pork and warm water. The Emperor Claudius caused them to be closed, -and severely punished the proprietors of those houses who opposed his -ordinance.<a name="anc_xxv_35" id="anc_xxv_35"></a><a href="#footnote-xxv_35"><span class="fnanchor">[XXV_35]</span></a></p> - -<p>At the commencement of the repast, a copper vessel was placed on the -table purposely to boil water. It was much like a French <i>bouilloire</i> -(which nearly resembles a tankard), and contained a cylinder of about -four inches in diameter, covered with a moving lid, and pierced with -holes for the ashes to pass through. They fell into the lower part of -the cylinder. The space around was filled with water by means of a small -funnel soldered to the boiler. The taps of these vases were always -slightly above the bottom, so that the sediment of the water should not -pass into the cups.<a name="anc_xxv_36" id="anc_xxv_36"></a><a href="#footnote-xxv_36"><span class="fnanchor">[XXV_36]</span></a></p> - -<p>Ancient medicine attributed to water a singular curative virtue, which -it has also been supposed to possess in our days. This system, so much -talked about now by some persons, is, therefore, not new. Hippocrates -carefully distinguished the difference between good and bad -water.<a name="anc_xxv_37" id="anc_xxv_37"></a><a href="#footnote-xxv_37"><span class="fnanchor">[XXV_37]</span></a> The best, according to him, ought to be clear, light, -inodorous, without any flavour, and drawn from springs exposed to the -east.<a name="anc_xxv_38" id="anc_xxv_38"></a><a href="#footnote-xxv_38"><span class="fnanchor">[XXV_38]</span></a> He interdicts all those which proceed from melted -snow.<a name="anc_xxv_39" id="anc_xxv_39"></a><a href="#footnote-xxv_39"><span class="fnanchor">[XXV_39]</span></a></p> - -<p>Asclepiades made his patients drink plentifully of water, and frequently -ordered them cold baths.<a name="anc_xxv_40" id="anc_xxv_40"></a><a href="#footnote-xxv_40"><span class="fnanchor">[XXV_40]</span></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="pl_XVII" id="pl_XVII"></a> -<a href="images/ill_pg_297_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_297_sml.jpg" width="297" height="374" alt="Image not available: Pl. 17." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">Pl. 17.</span> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_297" id="page_297"></a>{297}</span></p> - -<p>The physician, Musa, prescribed to Augustus the same regimen, and the -Emperor found himself much benefited by it.<a name="anc_xxv_41" id="anc_xxv_41"></a><a href="#footnote-xxv_41"><span class="fnanchor">[XXV_41]</span></a></p> - -<p>Under the reign of Nero, Charmis acquired a great vogue by extolling -cold baths,<a name="anc_xxv_42" id="anc_xxv_42"></a><a href="#footnote-xxv_42"><span class="fnanchor">[XXV_42]</span></a> even in the depth of winter. This dexterous native -of Marseilles knew so well how to persuade people, that he could hardly -attend to his immense connection; and as he sometimes required as much -as £800 from his patients,<a name="anc_xxv_43" id="anc_xxv_43"></a><a href="#footnote-xxv_43"><span class="fnanchor">[XXV_43]</span></a> he soon became as celebrated for his -riches as for his pretended medical genius. Who will say, after this, -that the water-cure system is good for nothing?</p> - -<p>“In Egypt, rich people have the water brought to them from the Nile in -leather pouches. Large and porous earthen pots of an oval shape, kept up -by supporters, are filled with it. The water at the end of a few hours -has deposited the slime it contained. It is afterwards distributed in -small vases of terra cotta, called <i>bardaks</i>, of the size of our -water-jugs. These vases are taken in the most showy part of the -habitation. In a short time the clay of the <i>bardaks</i> is impregnated; -their surface is covered with water, which, after borrowing from the -liquid within the caloric it requires for evaporation, reduces this to a -temperature of six or seven degrees under that which it had -before.”—<span class="smcap">Parmentier.</span></p> - -<p>More than five centuries ago the Sieur de Joinville described the same -process. “The water of the Nile,” he said, “is of such a nature, that -when we hung it in white earthen pots, made in the country, to the -rigging of our ships, the water became in the heat of the day as cold as -spring-water.”<a name="anc_xxv_44" id="anc_xxv_44"></a><a href="#footnote-xxv_44"><span class="fnanchor">[XXV_44]</span></a></p> - -<p>Sea-water is not potable, but it has long since been remarked that the -vapours which rise from the sea are soft, and it was thence concluded -that, by collecting and condensing them, it would be possible to obtain -a potable liquid fit for domestic purposes. This phenomenon was known in -the time of Pliny, who informs us that, “fleece spread about the ship, -after having received the exhalations from the sea, becomes damp, and -that fresh water may be extracted from it.”<a name="anc_xxv_45" id="anc_xxv_45"></a><a href="#footnote-xxv_45"><span class="fnanchor">[XXV_45]</span></a></p> - -<p>About the middle of the last century means were found to remove</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="c">DESCRIPTION OF <a href="#pl_XVII">PLATE No. XVII.</a></p> - -<p>No. 1. Pail, of bronze, with movable handle, covered with -hieroglyphics, to carry water from the Nile for the Feast of Isis.</p> - -<p>No. 2. Pail, with two handles, same metal, placed on a small tripod -to stand upon, owing to the convexity of the bottom.—<span class="smcap">St. Non</span>, -“<i>Herculaneum</i>.”</p></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_298" id="page_298"></a>{298}</span></p> - -<p class="nind">the saline substances from sea-water. Boyle, Leibnitz, the Count of -Marsigli—all had made a great number of fruitless experiments. Mr. -Poissonnier invented a very simple distillating machine, with which, and -an absorbing powder, he succeeded in depriving sea-water of its -insufferable bitterness, and rendering it perfectly salubrious. About -1784, a successful experiment was made at York with a machine which -produced the same result.</p> - -<p>Some travellers have related, that, at the Iron Island, the only soft -water was that which was collected from a large tree, in the centre of -the island, and which was incessantly covered with clouds. The water ran -continually from the leaves, and fell into two large cisterns, -constructed at the foot of the tree, which, according to Jackson, -furnished enough for 8,000 souls, and 100,000 cattle. “Let us see,” says -Bory de Saint-Vincent, “what amount of credit is due to the marvellous -tree of the Iron Island.” Abreu Galindo, in his manuscript treatise on -the Canary Islands, preserved in the archives of the country, says that -he wished to see with his own eyes what the tree was. He embarked, -arrived, took a guide to conduct him to a place called Tigulahe, which -is separated from the sea by a valley, and there, at the extreme -boundary, under a large cliff, was the holy tree, which in the country -is called Garoë. Its trunk is twelve spans in circumference, four feet -in diameter, and nearly forty feet in height. The branches are wide -apart and tufted; its fruit resembles an acorn, and the kernel is, in -colour and taste, like the little aromatic almonds which pine nuts -contain. It never loses its leaves, that is to say, the old ones do not -fall until the young ones are formed. On the north side, are two large -stone pillars, of twenty square feet, hollowed out to a depth of twenty -spans. These pillars are so placed that the water falls into one, and is -preserved in the other. Vapours and mists rise almost every day from the -sea, particularly in the morning, and at no great distance in the -offing; these vapours are carried by the east wind against the cliffs, -which block their passage, so that they cover the tree, become condensed -on its smooth leaves, and run off drop by drop. The more the east wind -reigns, the more abundant is the supply of water. It is distributed by a -man who guards the tree. A whirlwind tore up the Garoë in 1625.<a name="anc_xxv_46" id="anc_xxv_46"></a><a href="#footnote-xxv_46"><span class="fnanchor">[XXV_46]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_299" id="page_299"></a>{299}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="XXVI" id="XXVI"></a>XXVI.<br /><br /> -BEVERAGES, OF WHICH WATER IS THE FOUNDATION.</h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">Water</span> is certainly the most ancient beverage, the most simple, natural, -and the most common, which nature has given to mankind. But it is -necessary to be really thirsty in order to drink water, and as soon as -this craving is satisfied it becomes insipid and nauseous. What is then -to be done? Cyrus would have said: “Drink no more;” so would a -teetotaler of the present day. In the first ages of the world, the human -race, bound by no oath of temperance, succeeded, by sheer application of -their ingenuity, in finding something better, or perhaps worse, -according to the ideas of certain moralists, whose wise teaching, -however, commands respect. Certain it is that water, continuing to be -regarded with peculiar favour, was called to play a principal part in -various combinations by which it lost its insipidity and inoffensive -properties, and acquired the wonderful power of provoking a sort of -madness, known by the name of drunkenness.</p> - -<p>Those beverages which man imbibes when he is no longer thirsty, which -cloud his weak mind, and render him ill when in good health, are called -fermented liquors.</p> - -<p>Beer is one of the most ancient. If we are to believe Diodorus of -Sicily, Bacchus himself invented it.<a name="anc_xxvi_1" id="anc_xxvi_1"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvi_1"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVI_1]</span></a> However, it is certain that -the absolute injunction not to drink wine, caused the inhabitants of -Egypt to have recourse to a factitious beverage obtained from -barley,<a name="anc_xxvi_2" id="anc_xxvi_2"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvi_2"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVI_2]</span></a> often mentioned in history under the name of <i>zythum</i> -and <i>curmi</i>,<a name="anc_xxvi_3" id="anc_xxvi_3"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvi_3"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVI_3]</span></a> and whose invention has been often attributed to -Osiris—which means, that its precise origin is entirely unknown.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_300" id="page_300"></a>{300}</span></p> - -<p>It was a kind of beer composed of barley, and capable of being preserved -for a long time without decomposing;<a name="anc_xxvi_4" id="anc_xxvi_4"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvi_4"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVI_4]</span></a> for instead of hops, -utterly unknown in that country, a bitter infusion of lupins was -added.<a name="anc_xxvi_5" id="anc_xxvi_5"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvi_5"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVI_5]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Egyptians also used Assyrian corn in its composition, and probably -other aromatic plants, in which each one followed his peculiar taste. -The method of brewing varied much among them;<a name="anc_xxvi_6" id="anc_xxvi_6"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvi_6"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVI_6]</span></a> but the one here -mentioned was that most generally in use to procure zythum in Lower -Egypt, where it was converted, like our beer, into vinegar, which the -Greek merchants of Alexandria exported to the European ports.<a name="anc_xxvi_7" id="anc_xxvi_7"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvi_7"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVI_7]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Egyptians long drank nothing but this fermented liquor, because the -followers of Osiris believed that when Jupiter crushed the Titans with -thunderbolts, their blood, mixing with the earth, produced the vine. -They invented the zythum as a substitute for wine.<a name="anc_xxvi_8" id="anc_xxvi_8"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvi_8"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVI_8]</span></a></p> - -<p>It is not probable that the Greeks, whose wines were so renowned in -antiquity, thought much of beer. Nevertheless, Aristotle<a name="anc_xxvi_9" id="anc_xxvi_9"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvi_9"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVI_9]</span></a> -mentions drunkenness being caused by drinking a beverage drawn from -barley. Æschylus<a name="anc_xxvi_10" id="anc_xxvi_10"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvi_10"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVI_10]</span></a> and Sophocles<a name="anc_xxvi_11" id="anc_xxvi_11"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvi_11"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVI_11]</span></a> mention a liquor -procured from the same cereal.</p> - -<p>The use of beer spread rapidly in Gaul, where wine was but little known -before the time of Probus. The Emperor Julian, governor of this country, -acquaints us of this fact in an epigram.<a name="anc_xxvi_12" id="anc_xxvi_12"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvi_12"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVI_12]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Spaniards, and the aborigines of Britany and Germany, also -delightfully intoxicated themselves with an “infusion of barley,” called -by the first of these nations, <i>cœlia</i>, <i>ceria</i>, -<i>cerevisia</i>,<a name="anc_xxvi_13" id="anc_xxvi_13"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvi_13"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVI_13]</span></a> and <i>curmi</i> by the two latter. These various -denominations signify literally, <i>strong water</i>,<a name="anc_xxvi_14" id="anc_xxvi_14"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvi_14"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVI_14]</span></a> and this -fermented drink was common to the nations just indicated.<a name="anc_xxvi_15" id="anc_xxvi_15"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvi_15"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVI_15]</span></a> All -the people of Western Europe drank a strong liquor made with grain and -water. The manner of preparing it was not the same in Spain, in Gaul, -and elsewhere; but everywhere it possessed the same dangerous -properties.</p> - -<p>“Man,” says Pliny, “is so skilful in flattering his vices, that he has -even found means to render water poisonous and intoxicating.”<a name="anc_xxvi_16" id="anc_xxvi_16"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvi_16"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVI_16]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Danes and Saxons gave themselves up to an enormous consumption of -zythum and curmi, kinds of ale and beer, varying in no other respect -than in the manner of preparing them.<a name="anc_xxvi_17" id="anc_xxvi_17"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvi_17"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVI_17]</span></a> The warlike piety of -their ingenuous and coarse-minded heroes, desired no greater recompense, -after a life of fatigue and rough combats, than to sing the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_301" id="page_301"></a>{301}</span> praises of -Odin amidst eternal banquets, where these exhilarating beverages might -unceasingly maintain the joy and bravery of the warriors.<a name="anc_xxvi_18" id="anc_xxvi_18"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvi_18"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVI_18]</span></a></p> - -<p>The ancient Britons had many vines, but they esteemed them only as -ornaments to their gardens; and they preferred, says Cæsar, the wine of -grain to that of grapes.<a name="anc_xxvi_19" id="anc_xxvi_19"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvi_19"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVI_19]</span></a> It is historically demonstrated that -the English, at a very early epoch, applied themselves to the making of -beer.</p> - -<p>It is mentioned in the laws of Ina, Chief, or King, of Wessex; and this -liquor held a distinguished rank among those that appeared at a royal -feast in the reign of Edward the Confessor.<a name="anc_xxvi_20" id="anc_xxvi_20"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvi_20"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVI_20]</span></a></p> - -<p>Under the Normans, ale acquired a reputation it has ever since -maintained. Two gallons cost only one penny in the cities; in the -country, four gallons might be obtained at the same price. Happy age! -happy ale drinkers! At that period—the golden age for the apostles of -the Britannic Bacchus—the brewers rendered no account of the -preparation of this beloved beverage. The English nation did not yet -purchase the right of intoxicating themselves: it was not till the year -1643 that this authorization was to be bought.<a name="anc_xxvi_21" id="anc_xxvi_21"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvi_21"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVI_21]</span></a></p> - -<p>The use of hops would appear to be of German invention. They were -employed in the Low Countries at the beginning of the 14th century; but -it was not till the 16th that they were appreciated in England.<a name="anc_xxvi_22" id="anc_xxvi_22"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvi_22"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVI_22]</span></a></p> - -<p>Can it be true that beer or ale possessed, in certain cases, strange -curative properties? We find the following fact in a statistical account -of Scotland.<a name="anc_xxvi_23" id="anc_xxvi_23"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvi_23"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVI_23]</span></a></p> - -<p>A poor coal miner of the county of Clackmannan, named William Hunter, -had been long suffering with acute rheumatism, or obstinate gout, which -deprived him of the use of his limbs. The eve of the first Monday of the -year 1758, some of his neighbours came to pass the evening with him. Ale -was drunk, and they got merry. The jolly fellow never failed to empty -his glass at each round. Scotch ale is a seductive drink, and as -perfidious as pleasure: it bewilders the senses, and finally masters the -reason. William Hunter lost his, completely; but his legs were restored, -and he was able to make marvellous use of them for more than twenty -years. After that happy evening, never did his old enemy, the gout, dare -approach him; and the worthy coal miner took care to keep it at a -distance, by reiterating the remedy which had proved so beneficial. -Nobody could blame him. Ale had become so dear to him! Gratitude and -prudence combined to make it a duty to remain unalterably attached, and -he was faithful to it till he breathed his last.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_302" id="page_302"></a>{302}</span></p> - -<p>Antecedent to the use of hops beer was made in England as follows:</p> - -<p>“<i>To make a Hogshead of Strong Ale.</i>—It was necessary, first of all, to -make the <i>grout</i>, which was thus done:—Nine gallons of water was to be -well boiled, and put into a brewing-vessel; when it was a little cool -there was put therein three pecks of malt, which was left standing for -an hour and a-half, and then it ought to be drawn off into a cooler. -When it was near cold, it was put into a vessel provided for that -purpose, perfectly clean, and having a cover to stop it down close. -Being therein, it was closely covered down, that it might there stand to -sharpen; if the weather should be cold it might require about eighteen -hours, but if it was hot not quite so long. When it was ripe enough, -upon the sudden opening of the vessel, the strength of the fume arising -from the liquour would near, if not entirely, extinguish a lighted -candle, which ought to be provided short on purpose, and holden over for -the proof thereof. When the brewer was satisfied that the grout was -properly ripened, he poured it forth into the copper, and boiled it -moderately upon a slow fire for about an hour, constantly stirring it -all the while, and to know when it was boiled enough he provided a small -ashen stick, which, being alighted at the fire, he thrust suddenly into -the boiling liquor, drawing it forth as quick as possible, when, if the -fire on the stick remained still unextinguished, it was well boiled, but -not if it were otherwise. This being done, the liquor was put into a -vessel of twenty gallons, or thereabouts, and yeast put to it, that it -might work, which when it had sufficiently done, it was ready for the -wort to be put to it. The wort might be brewed of what strength the -brewer should please, so that it did not exceed sixty gallons to the -above proportion of grout. The grout being now properly ripe, and having -worked enough, a quantity of the wort, sufficient to fill up the -twenty-gallon vessel into which the grout is put, must be poured upon -it, and then the whole drawn off into the <i>yeeling fatt</i>, and there, -being mixed with the remainder of the wort, is left to work together, -which when it hath sufficiently done, it must be strained off into the -hogshead, through a hair sieve made for that purpose, where it must also -work like other beer or ale.”<a name="anc_xxvi_24" id="anc_xxvi_24"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvi_24"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVI_24]</span></a></p> - -<p>In the ninth year of Edward II., things being very scarce, a gallon of -ale was sold for twopence, of the better sort for threepence, and of the -best for fourpence; but the Londoners ordained that, in the City, a -gallon of the bettermost sort of ale should be sold for three-halfpence, -and of the small ale for one penny only.<a name="anc_xxvi_25" id="anc_xxvi_25"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvi_25"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVI_25]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_303" id="page_303"></a>{303}</span></p> - -<p>Holinshed says<a name="anc_xxvi_26" id="anc_xxvi_26"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvi_26"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVI_26]</span></a> that every kind of wine could be procured in -England. “Nevertheless,” he adds, “ale and beere beare the greatest -brunt in drincking, which are of so many sortes and ages as it pleaseth -the brewer to make them. The beere that is used at noblemen’s tables is -commonly of a yeare olde (or, peradventure, of twoo yeares’ tunning, or -more, but this is not general); it is also brued in Marche, and is -therefore called Marche beere; but for the household it is usually not -under a monthe’s age, eache one coveting to have the same stale as he -might, so that was not soure, and the breade new as possible, so that be -not hote.”</p> - -<p>Formerly, they drank beer in some parts of France—in others, wine. -Perhaps it is the same now. This difference of taste gave rise to a -rather jocose dispute between a grey friar and a white friar. One, who -was a Fleming, was for beer; the other, who was from Bordeaux, was for -wine. The Fleming cited passages without number from antiquity in proof -of the excellence of beer, known by the ancients under the name of -<i>zithum</i>, or <i>curmi</i>. The one from Bordeaux was not so learned, but he -was a native of Bordeaux, and with one word he terminated the dispute. -“Brother,” said he to his adversary, “I maintain that there is as much -difference between wine and beer as there is between St. Francis and St. -Dominick.” The whole community were for the Bordeaux monk, and the -Fleming was reduced to silence.<a name="anc_xxvi_27" id="anc_xxvi_27"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvi_27"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVI_27]</span></a></p> - -<p><i>Braket</i> was formerly the cherished drink of the lower classes in -England. Arnold describes the preparation of it, in his “Chronicles of -London:”</p> - -<p>“Take a pot of good ale and put thereto a porcyon of honey and pepper, -in this manner:—When thou hast good ale, lete it stonde (stand) in a -pott two dayes, and then drawe out a quart, or a pottell, of that ale, -and putt to the honey, and set it over the fyre and let it sethe well, -and take it of the fyre and scume it clene; and then sat it over the -fyre and scume it agayne, and then let it keele a whyle, and put thereto -the pepper, and then set hym on the fyre and let him boyle well togyder, -with esy fyre, but clere. Take four gallons of good ale, a pynte of fyn -tryed hony, and about a saucerful of powder of peper.”</p> - -<p>Beer was hot unknown in Italy, but the Romans never granted it their -serious attention.<a name="anc_xxvi_28" id="anc_xxvi_28"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvi_28"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVI_28]</span></a> We will give a brief sketch of those -beverages which, among them and the Greeks, replaced wine with greater -or less advantage.</p> - -<p>Convalescents, sober persons who resisted the sweet seductions of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_304" id="page_304"></a>{304}</span> -Falernian and Chios wines, drank a kind of barley-water <i>ptisana</i>, a -sorry liquid, of which the following is the recipe for the use of the -abstemious of the present day. They placed barley in water, and left it -there until it swelled; it was then dried in the sun, then beaten to -deprive it of its husk, and ground. Then, when it had been boiled in -water for a long time, it was again exposed to the sun. When they wished -to drink barley-water, a small quantity of this flour was boiled, the -water was strained off, and a few drops of vinegar were added.<a name="anc_xxvi_29" id="anc_xxvi_29"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvi_29"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVI_29]</span></a> -The disciples of Comus have always shuddered at this beverage, when only -mentioned.</p> - -<p>The <i>oxycratus</i> was not much better. It was a mixture of water and -vinegar, with which the lower orders contented themselves when they -could obtain nothing more exhilarating to drink;<a name="anc_xxvi_30" id="anc_xxvi_30"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvi_30"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVI_30]</span></a> and with which -the soldiers, especially in the camp, were compelled to quench their -thirst.<a name="anc_xxvi_31" id="anc_xxvi_31"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvi_31"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVI_31]</span></a></p> - -<p>Some passages from Pliny, and also from other authors, prove that the -ancients were acquainted with cider.<a name="anc_xxvi_32" id="anc_xxvi_32"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvi_32"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVI_32]</span></a> It is, however, asserted -that the use of this beverage goes no farther back than three or four -centuries, either in England or France;<a name="anc_xxvi_33" id="anc_xxvi_33"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvi_33"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVI_33]</span></a> but this cannot be a -fact with regard to the last-named country, since the capitulars of -Charlemagne place among the number of ordinary trades that of -<i>sicerator</i>, or “cider maker.” This “wine of apples,”<a name="anc_xxvi_34" id="anc_xxvi_34"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvi_34"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVI_34]</span></a> it is -said, was very common among the Hebrews. That is possible, but it would, -nevertheless, be difficult to prove it from the holy writings, since the -word <i>schecar</i>, which has been translated by <i>sicera</i>, and which, again, -has been rendered into cider, signifies all kinds of intoxicating -beverage, whether made from grain, honey, or fruit.<a name="anc_xxvi_35" id="anc_xxvi_35"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvi_35"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVI_35]</span></a></p> - -<p>Gaul, covered with forests, and swarming with bees, possessed an immense -quantity of wild honey, of which, by the aid of fermentation in water, -the inhabitants composed a strong and intoxicating drink, called -<i>hydromel</i>. This beverage, highly esteemed both in Rome and Greece, was -prepared in the following manner: rain water was kept some time, and -then boiled until reduced to one-third, to which honey was added.<a name="anc_p" id="anc_p"></a><a href="#footnote_p"><span class="fnanchor">[P]</span></a> -This mixture was exposed to the sun for the space of forty days; it was -then placed in a vessel, and by these means they obtained, in time, a -vinous hydromel very similar to our Madeira wine.<a name="anc_xxvi_36" id="anc_xxvi_36"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvi_36"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVI_36]</span></a> To make -<i>oxymel</i>, still more heady, ten pounds of honey were mixed with two -pints and a half of old vinegar, and one pound of sea-salt; the whole -boiled<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_305" id="page_305"></a>{305}</span> only an instant in five pints of water. This liquor was left to -get very old.<a name="anc_xxvi_37" id="anc_xxvi_37"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvi_37"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVI_37]</span></a></p> - -<p>Juice of quinces and honey, boiled in water, produced <i>hydromelon</i>, a -delicious drink, which our century might envy the delicate drinkers of -Athens and Rome,<a name="anc_xxvi_38" id="anc_xxvi_38"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvi_38"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVI_38]</span></a> especially when roses had been added to this -nectar, which changed it into <i>hydrorosatum</i>.<a name="anc_xxvi_39" id="anc_xxvi_39"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvi_39"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVI_39]</span></a></p> - -<p>The <i>apomeli</i> was nothing more than water in which honeycomb had been -boiled.<a name="anc_xxvi_40" id="anc_xxvi_40"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvi_40"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVI_40]</span></a> <i>Omphacomeli</i>, an ingenious mixture of honey and -verjuice, quenched thirst during the summer, and produced that agreeable -gaiety which is to drunkenness what doziness is to sleep.<a name="anc_xxvi_41" id="anc_xxvi_41"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvi_41"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVI_41]</span></a></p> - -<p>A mixture of honey and juice of myrtle seed, of course diluted with -water, composed <i>myrtites</i>, the aromatic flavour of which flattered the -palate, and rendered the breath more sweet.<a name="anc_xxvi_42" id="anc_xxvi_42"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvi_42"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVI_42]</span></a> Sometimes -pomegranates were substituted for the myrtle, and it was then called -<i>rhoites</i>, and possessed an agreeable and pungent flavour.<a name="anc_xxvi_43" id="anc_xxvi_43"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvi_43"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVI_43]</span></a></p> - -<p>Wine made of dates enjoyed a general esteem in the east. The Romans, who -knew also how to appreciate it, prepared it by throwing into water some -common, though very ripe, dates; and when they had well soaked, they -were put under a press.<a name="anc_xxvi_44" id="anc_xxvi_44"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvi_44"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVI_44]</span></a> The same means were employed to procure -fig wine; but often the sediment of grapes was used instead of water, to -prevent its being too sweet.<a name="anc_xxvi_45" id="anc_xxvi_45"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvi_45"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVI_45]</span></a></p> - -<p>“Artificial wines” were also procured by the aid of several other kinds -of fruits, such as sorbs, medlars, and mulberries.<a name="anc_xxvi_46" id="anc_xxvi_46"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvi_46"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVI_46]</span></a> Fermentation -dispelled the sweet and insipid flavour which generally distinguishes -these fruits; and, at the commencement of a repast, the guests swallowed -with delight large cups of these beverages.<a name="anc_xxvi_47" id="anc_xxvi_47"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvi_47"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVI_47]</span></a></p> - -<p>It was also the custom to serve very cold water, in which certain plants -had been infused, and which was freshened by being surrounded with snow -after it had been boiled for some time. The invention of this iced water -is attributed to the Emperor Nero, who made great use of it; and who -appears to have bitterly regretted it when, dethroned and flying from -his assassins, he was constrained through excessive thirst to drink -muddy water from a ditch. The unfortunate Cæsar then, for the first -time, thought of the strange vicissitudes of fortune, and casting a -sorrowful glance at the disgusting fluid he held in his hand, “Alas!” he -exclaimed, with a sigh, “is this the iced water that Nero -drank?”<a name="anc_xxvi_48" id="anc_xxvi_48"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvi_48"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVI_48]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_306" id="page_306"></a>{306}</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>TEA.</h3> - -<p>This plant is a native of China, and it is only in the Celestial Empire -that tea is cultivated to any great extent. Why, then, is it neglected -on all other points of the globe situated in the same latitude? -Doubtless, because the soil of China is superior for its culture to that -of any other country.</p> - -<p>The shrub that produces tea is cultivated between the twenty-third and -thirty-third degrees of latitude; it thrives on the mountainous parts, -on the slope of the hills, and that which grows on high ground is far -superior to that gathered in the valleys. It is the same with this plant -as with the vine in France and in Europe; it grows on flat land, and -succeeds wonderfully on plains exposed to the sun’s rays.</p> - -<p>The Chinese export teas of the first quality in much greater proportion -than those of an inferior kind. In England there is a larger consumption -than in any other country in the world.</p> - -<p>In China, the tea that forms the habitual beverage of the people is a -very inferior species of the <i>Boo</i> tea.</p> - -<p>The provinces of Kiang-Nang, Kiang-Si, and Che-Kiang, furnish green tea -to Russia, the United States, Calcutta, and various European countries; -the province of Fo-Kien furnishes black tea to England, with the -exception of a third of the <i>boo</i> tea, or <i>bohee</i>, which is exported -from a district called Wo-Ping, lying to the north-west of the province -of Canton.</p> - -<p>It is in Fo-Kien that the cultivation of this precious shrub is held in -the highest estimation. In this province it is deprived of a large -number of its buds at the beginning of the spring. Of these are made the -tea <i>Pé-ko</i>, the most renowned of all kinds. Congo tea serves to perfume -part of these buds, and to impart to them a more agreeable flavour.</p> - -<p>A first gathering of full-grown leaves takes place at the commencement -of May, a second towards the middle of June, and a third and last at the -end of the summer. This produces a tea inferior to the preceding kinds -in point of quality and perfume.</p> - -<p>The inhabitants of Fo-Kien cultivate tea in inclosures; and at the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_307" id="page_307"></a>{307}</span> time -of harvest sell the leaves to a class of persons who undertake their -preparation, which consists in drying the leaves in houses, first by the -simple contact with the air, afterwards in heated warehouses. When the -preparation is terminated, the merchants come and make choice of the -best qualities; then the desiccation of the tea is finished, and it is -forwarded in packets, each bearing its proper designation.</p> - -<p>As soon as the leaves have been gathered and selected, they are plunged -in boiling water, where they remain about thirty seconds; they are then -quickly withdrawn, strained, and thrown on iron plates, large and flat, -placed above a furnace: the workmen’s hands can hardly endure the heat -of these plates. They continually stir the leaves till they are -sufficiently heated, after which they take them off, and spread them on -large tables covered with mats. Other workmen then busy themselves with -rolling them with the palm of the hand, while others cool them as -quickly as possible by agitating the air with large fans. This operation -must be continued until the leaves have completely cooled under the hand -of the person who rolls them, for it is by being quickly cooled that the -leaves remain longer curled. Thanks to the operation of rolling them, -which is repeated two or three times, the leaves are deprived of their -humidity, and the unwholesome bitter juice they contain. For teas of the -first quality, each leaf must be rolled separately; but for more common -kinds, several may be rolled at once. Tea, thus prepared, is dried, and -put into boxes or cases free from moisture. The Chinese then aromatise -it with various odoriferous plants, such as the flowers of the <i>olea -fragrans</i>, and those of the <i>camellia sesangua</i>, shrubs of the same -family as tea; or those of the scented tea-roses and orange-flowers.</p> - -<p>This tea is destined for mandarins of the higher class, for the <i>Calaos</i> -or ministers, and even for the celestial sovereign of the <i>Centre of the -Earth</i>—or, in more simple words, the Emperor.</p> - -<p>There are, in reality, but two kinds of tea, black tea and green tea; -each kind is again subdivided into many varieties. The best black tea is -the scented <i>Liang-sing</i>, worth in China about 10<i>s.</i> the pound.</p> - -<p>The first of all green teas, destined for the great, and bearing an -exquisite perfume, is that called <i>Koo-lang-fyn-i</i>. M. de Rienzi assures -us that he has seen it sold in Canton for 32s. a pound.</p> - -<p>New tea is considered by the Chinese as a powerful narcotic, therefore -it is never sold until a year after the gathering.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_308" id="page_308"></a>{308}</span></p> - -<p>The Europeans and Americans, who trade with tea in Canton, have recourse -for their transactions with the Chinese to native tasters, or others, -who know how to distinguish the different qualities at the sight of the -colour produced by the infusion.</p> - -<p>It is generally believed in Europe that tea exported thence has already -served as a beverage to the Chinese. It is a mistake, propagated by -persons who, having seen the tea put in water, have doubtless not well -understood the reason of this operation. We must, however, admit that -the merchants sometimes mix tea already used with tea of good quality; a -fraud only to be discovered by the weakness of the infusion.</p> - -<p>Tea seems likely to spread over the world. Our books, wines, brandy, -cutlery, and jewellery, go round the globe, and are sought after by the -civilized nations as well as the wild tribes. On the other hand, we -receive our food, together with spices, from Malaisia; we sweeten them -with sugar from the Antilles or Siam; we enjoy the flavour and perfume -of coffee from Arabia and the Island of Bourbon; we intoxicate ourselves -with tobacco from Manilla, Virginia, of Havannah, and Latakia; and we -imbibe with luxurious pleasure the tea of those Chinese we are -continually laughing at, but of whom we have borrowed so many useful -things. We must, however, acknowledge that France is the country the -least advanced in this respect, and the use of this beneficent drink is -far from being as common as it ought to be. We do not fear to say that -when once acquainted with the method of preparing it better than is -generally done, this inferiority in the consumption will disappear. Some -witty delineator of manners and customs has pourtrayed upon the joyous -scene of a comic theatre of Paris, that famous tea party of <i>Mother -Gibou</i> and <i>Madame Pochet</i>, one of those ridiculous Parisian and really -home-scenes, much more common than is generally supposed, and although -the picture is over-charged, it is nevertheless true.</p> - -<p>It is not necessary here to give our private recipe to prepare an -infusion in which that excellent lady, <i>Madame Pochet</i>, thought herself -so perfect; suffice to say, that to make it agreeable to her guests she -added salt, pepper, some cinnamon, the yolk of an egg, and a tiny drop -of vinegar. We would beg the reader not to fail in attending these -charming and daily meetings, at which each housewife presides, and we -would say to strangers, let us seriously study an English tea.</p> - -<p>“The use of tea in China dates from the greatest antiquity. The Japanese -attribute to it a miraculous origin. They say that Darma, a<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_309" id="page_309"></a>{309}</span> very pious -prince, and son of an Indian king, landed in China in the year 510 of -the Christian era, and wishing to edify mankind by his example, imposed -upon himself privations of all kinds. It happened, however, that after -several years of great fatigue, in spite of his care he fell asleep; and -believing he had violated his oath, and in order to fulfil it faithfully -for the future, he cut off his eyelids and threw them on the ground. The -next day, returning towards the same spot, he found them changed into a -little shrub, hitherto unknown to the earth. He eat some of the leaves, -which made him merry and restored his former strength. Having -recommended the same food to his disciples, the reputation of tea soon -spread, and has continued in use since that time.”—<span class="smcap">Desfontaines.</span> See, -also, <span class="smcap">Kœmpfer</span>, in his “<i>Aménités Exotiques</i>.”</p> - -<p>We are ignorant of the period and motives which persuaded the Chinese to -use tea in infusion. Perhaps it was to render water more agreeable, -which is said to be brackish and of a bad taste in many parts of China. -In 1641, Tulpius, a Dutch physician, was the first to mention this -plant, in a dissertation he published. In 1657, Joncquet, a French -physician, called it the divine plant, and compared it to ambrosia. In -1679, Cornelius Bentekoe, a Dutch physician, published a treatise, in -which he declared himself a partisan of tea, and asserted that this -beverage in no way could injure the stomach, even if drank to the extent -of <i>two hundred cups</i> a day. Many of his countrymen went even beyond -this: they made of it a universal panacea.</p> - -<p>As at first the leaves of the tea plant were rare and but little known, -many persons thought they had discovered in Europe what others fetched -from such a distance. Thus Simon Pauli introduced the royal pimento -(<i>myria gale</i> of <span class="smcap">Linn.</span>), as the real tea of China. Others thought to -have found the marvellous virtues of tea in plants growing in our own -country, such as marjoram, veronica, myrtle, sage, agrimony, &c.; but it -happily ended in granting the preference to the real tea of China and -Japan.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_310" id="page_310"></a>{310}</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>COFFEE.</h3> - -<p>In the trade five principal kinds of coffee are enumerated—or rather, -five sorts—according to the different countries from whence they come, -although all derived from the same kind of coffee tree, <i>Coffea -Arabica</i>. These five kinds are as follows:—</p> - -<p>1st. Mocha coffee, thus called from the country whence this kind of -coffee originates, a plant now so commonly spread over every American -colony. The grain of this coffee is generally round and small. From -Mocha coffee is derived the most sweet and agreeable beverage; it is -also the most esteemed, the dearest, and holds the first rank in the -trade.</p> - -<p>2nd. The Bourbon coffee, cultivated in the Island of Bourbon; for some -time it occupied the second place in quality, but the <i>gourmets</i> prefer -to it coffee from Martinique or Guadaloupe.</p> - -<p>3rd. There are several kinds of Martinique or Guadaloupe, distinguished -by the various preparations.</p> - -<p>4th. The Cayenne coffee. This kind is less known on account of the small -quantity cultivated there, and introduced in trade. This kind is -superior to the Martinique coffee.</p> - -<p>5th. The St. Domingo coffee, in which is comprised that from Porto Rico, -and other leeward islands, is considered inferior to the four other -kinds.</p> - -<p>Let us mention a few of the methods by which coffee in infusion is -obtained.</p> - -<p>It is not exactly known who introduced the custom of taking coffee. Some -attribute its use to the prior of a convent, who becoming acquainted -with the properties of this plant by the effect it produced on the goats -which fed upon it, tried its influence on his monks, in order to keep -them awake during the performance of divine service. According to -others, the discovery is due to a mufti, who, wishing to surpass in -devotion the most religious dervishes, made use of coffee so as to -banish sleep, and thus be enabled to pray longer without interruption. -Whatever may be the origin of the use of coffee, it has become so -general up to the present day that it may almost be classed among the -articles of the greatest necessity. This extensive use has stimulated<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_311" id="page_311"></a>{311}</span> -the industry of inventors to seek means of rendering it most pleasant to -drink, as also its great consumption and high price have awaked both -economy and fraud, in order to find a substitute for this agreeable -beverage.</p> - -<p>It would be useless here to describe the different methods of making -coffee; it will be sufficient to mention that all those which tend to -prepare it without boiling the water in which the pulverised coffee is -placed, are almost equally good.</p> - -<p>In order to supplant coffee, which in Europe was found very expensive, -many different means have been tried. About fifty years since the Swiss -porter of a nobleman in Paris thought of roasting acorns, which he mixed -with roast coffee, ground; he sold it cheaper than any one; all bought -it, and the Swiss made his fortune.</p> - -<p>The trick, however, being discovered, all sought means of gratifying -their taste without emptying their purses; barley and rye began to be -mixed with coffee.</p> - -<p>In the mountains of Virginia, in America, the inhabitants make a coffee -simply of roasted rye; they by these means obtain a beverage in no way -resembling coffee, but it goes by that name, and at least the -imagination is satisfied.</p> - -<p>In Belgium, in the province of Liege, coffee is mixed with wild chicory -root. This method, generally known, is at the present time practised -throughout the whole of Europe; and wild chicory root then opened for -Liege a new branch of commerce. Lastly, in Flanders some of the -inhabitants cultivate the lupin, which they complacently call coffee, -and whose seed, roasted, they drink instead of real coffee.</p> - -<p>“The infusion of coffee is thought to be beneficial to stout and -phlegmatic persons, and for pains in the head; but it appears that its -admixture with cream or milk prevents these good effects, on account of -the relaxation it thus causes to the stomach. On the contrary, it gives -strength when taken pure. It is doubtless for this reason that the -inhabitants of the colonies take it three and four times a day—that is, -at four o’clock in the morning, a very strong infusion, sometimes -without sugar; at breakfast, with milk; after dinner, pure; and often in -the afternoon, for the fourth time.”—<span class="smcap">Beauvais.</span></p> - -<p>We are unacquainted with the period of the introduction of coffee into -Europe. Rauwolf is the first who speaks of coffee, in 1588. Prospero -Alpini then came, and described the coffee tree in Egypt by the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_312" id="page_312"></a>{312}</span> name of -<i>bon</i>, <i>bun</i>, or <i>boun</i>: his work appeared in 1591. In 1614, Bacon -mentioned this oriental beverage, and Meissner published a treatise on -it in 1621.</p> - -<p>It was not, however, until towards the year 1645, that it began to be -drunk in Italy. The first <i>cafés</i> were opened in London in 1652, and in -Paris in 1669, a time at which a pound of coffee was worth forty crowns. -It was principally Soliman Aga, the ambassador from Turkey, who caused -coffee to become fashionable in Paris.</p> - -<p>It penetrated into Sweden in the year 1674, where it was thought of use -in scorbutic diseases. The first person who made trial of coffee with -milk was Nieuhoff, the Dutch ambassador in China, in imitation of tea -with milk.</p> - -<p>“The physical effects of coffee are well known: it accelerates the -circulation of the blood, but sometimes causes palpitation of the heart -and giddiness; it has even been thought to occasion apoplexy and -paralysis. Nevertheless, celebrated writers—such as Fontenelle and -Voltaire—made constant use of it, almost to an abuse. They were told, -<i>it is a slow poison</i>; it was indeed slow for these learned men, who -died, the one at a hundred, the other eighty-four years of age. However, -at the present time coffee is a beverage whose power over our -intellectual or moral habits has, perhaps, never been calculated as it -deserves, since it has become general, and almost suppressed the -drunkenness which disgraced our ancestors at the end of their grand -repasts.”—<span class="smcap">Virey.</span></p> - -<p>The subject we have just slightly touched upon recalls to our -recollection a whim of the charming Sévigné: “<i>Le café et Racine -passeront</i>,” said this amiable lady, nearly two hundred years ago. The -beautiful marchioness was mistaken: both coffee and Racine have -remained, and do not appear likely soon to bid us adieu.</p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>CHOCOLATE.</h3> - -<p>Every one is aware that chocolate is an aliment obtained from the -cocoa-nut, roasted and reduced to paste, with sugar and aromatics.</p> - -<p>But first, the choice of cocoa nuts is not indifferent.</p> - -<p>Those from Soconusco, from Caracas, and Maracaibo, are the best<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_313" id="page_313"></a>{313}</span> and -sweetest; it is, however, well to mix with them other kinds, to correct -their insipidity by a certain sharpness far from being unpleasant; thus, -to four parts of Caracas cocoa, earthed—that is, rendered mild by a -sojourn of some weeks under the moist earth—a part of cocoa from the -Antilles, or Maragnon and Para, is added; this kind contains more of -sharp and bitter matter. These cocoas are slightly torrefied in an iron -pan. The Spaniards burn their cocoa much less than the Italians. Being -left to grow cold, this cocoa is slightly crushed, to separate the -envelopes or shells, which are thrown away. However, in England, -Switzerland, and Germany, these shells serve to make, with boiling -water, a warm infusion, mixed with milk and drank in lieu of real -chocolate. The envelopes of torrefied coffee are employed in a similar -manner in the east for the “Sultana coffee.” The mixtures of torrefied -cocoa are reduced into a fat paste of a brown colour, either between -stones, or by means of an iron roller upon a porphyry rock, warmed -underneath by live coals; this paste, regularly ground, is at last -incorporated with sugar, equal to its weight, then it is mixed together -as perfectly as possible. In this <i>chocolat de santé</i> a small quantity -of very fine cinnamon powder is admitted, which makes it more palatable, -and neutralizes the action of the fat and heavy substance, or vegetable -butter, contained in the cocoa.</p> - -<p>“The term chocolate belongs, it is said, to the language of the -Mexicans, and is derived from the two words <i>choco</i>, sound or noise, and -<i>atle</i>, water, because it is beaten in boiling water to make it froth, -according to the custom of this people. Before their conquest by the -Spaniards, it formed the principal aliment of the Mexicans. They held -the cocoa tree in such estimation, that its kernel served as current -coin, and this custom even now remains.”—<span class="smcap">Humboldt.</span></p> - -<p>The Mexican chocolate, besides the pimento, contained the <i>chile</i>, or -Indian wheat-flour, with honey, or sweet juice of the agava. To this was -added annotto, an astringent tinctorial juice, of a rosy hue, obtained -from the seeds of the <i>Bixa Orleana</i>. The chieftains, or lords and -warriors only, enjoyed the right of feeding on chocolate, as the most -restoring aliment, and the most capable, in their opinion, of repairing -worn-out strength and producing vigour. The addition of the perfume of -vanilla, again, augments this quality, according to the testimony of -physicians and travellers. Dias of Castilho relates that Montezuma drank -vanilla chocolate, and the Maréchal de Bellisle says,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_314" id="page_314"></a>{314}</span> in his -“<i>Testament Politique</i>,” that the regent, Louis Philippe d’Orléans -regaled himself every morning with chocolate at his <i>petit lever</i>.</p> - -<p>The ladies of Chiapa, in Mexico, are so fond of these perfumed -chocolates that they even have them carried to eat in church. The -Spanish Creole nuns have also brought to great perfection the art of -preparing fine chocolate, perfumed with amber.</p> - -<p>The use of chocolate was soon brought from Mexico, after its conquest by -Fernando Cortes, into Spain, and this food has there become quite -habitual. First, it easily deceives hunger by reason of its oily -qualities and slow digestion; then it is softening and cooling, which -renders it particularly desirable in warm climates, especially such as -the Iberian peninsula. Thus the Spaniards but slightly roast their -cocoa-nuts; they prefer preserving but a very slight bitterness, and -mixing with it more aromatics. Besides, chocolate, so useful to dry and -nervous temperaments, is an agreeable analeptic, recommended against -hypochondria and melancholy, two affections so common to the Spaniards. -The beggars, even, could not live without it, and they accost each other -in the morning with inquiring if their lordships have taken their -chocolate.</p> - -<p>This aliment is favourable to idleness, augments the calm of the body -and mind, and plunges one in a sweet quietude of <i>far niente</i> at a small -expense.</p> - -<p>From Spain the fashion of taking chocolate was introduced into Italy, -especially by the Florentine, Antonio Carletti. The Italians extract -from cocoa more exalted qualities by torrefication: they burn it till it -becomes bitter. The grave question arose among them, whether chocolate -taken in the morning by the monks broke the fast principally in Lent. -The Cardinal Brancaccio, and other learned casuists, battled long in -order to prove that chocolate, being evidently a beverage made of water, -could not be in the least considered as an aliment, nor break the fast. -We see, indeed, in the correspondence of the Princess des Ursins—all -powerful at the court of Philip V. of Spain—and Madame de Maintenon, -that the consciences of pious persons had been placed in full -tranquillity by this decision, and that any one might fast during the -whole Lent as perfectly by drinking chocolate as if he had only partaken -of a glass of cold water.</p> - -<p>“Chocolate became pretty common in France from the time of Anne of -Austria, mother of Louis XIV.; however, it does not appear to have ever -excited the same enthusiasm as coffee; it is not favourable to good<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_315" id="page_315"></a>{315}</span> -cheer, nor is it exhilarating. To this may be traced, perhaps, the -indifference of the English for this beverage.”—<span class="smcap">Virey.</span></p> - -<p>In trade, as we have said, are distinguished a great variety of cocoas, -and they are called by the name of the country whence they come. Thus we -have the Caracas cocoa, the Surinam cocoa, &c. That which comes from the -French possessions is called also “cocoa of the isles.” The Caracas is -the most esteemed of all: it is more oily than the other kinds, and has -no sharpness of flavour. It is known by being larger, rough, of an -ovoid, oblong shape, not flattened, covered with a greyish dust, and by -the kernel being easily divided into several irregular fragments. “The -name of <i>cacao</i>, of which in French has been made the word <i>cacaoyer</i>, -is that given by the inhabitants of Guiana to this grain. As to the -scientific name, <i>theobroma</i>, Linnæus formed it from two Greek words, -signifying ‘food of the gods.’ ”—<span class="smcap">Demezil.</span><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_316" id="page_316"></a>{316}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="XXVII" id="XXVII"></a>XXVII.<br /><br /> -DRINKING CUPS.</h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">If</span> men were wiser, the 19th century would probably not have seen a -beneficent apostle preaching temperance everywhere, and making his name -cherished and celebrated by a series of successes which could hardly -have been expected; numerous societies of <i>Hydropotes</i>, or -“teetotallers,” would not alarm, in our days, those joyful disciples of -Bacchus’s temple, hydrophobes by profession, by taste, and interest, who -sincerely bewail the desertion of newly made abstemious members; and no -person would promise, by a solemn and formidable pledge, to forego the -drinking of anything but water! The abuse must have been very great, -since it was necessary to have recourse to such a remedy.</p> - -<p>It is true that the evil had taken deep root, and that the most ancient -people, the gods, and the heroes, have left us examples of this -dangerous seduction. The Scythians, the Celts, Iberians, and -Thracians,<a name="anc_xxvii_1" id="anc_xxvii_1"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvii_1"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVII_1]</span></a> were confirmed drunkards. The wise Nestor himself, -who was so good a match for Agamemnon, often felt some difficulty in -finding his tent.<a name="anc_xxvii_2" id="anc_xxvii_2"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvii_2"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVII_2]</span></a> Alexander the Great slept sometimes two days -and two nights, after having paid too much devotion to the god of good -cheer;<a name="anc_xxvii_3" id="anc_xxvii_3"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvii_3"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVII_3]</span></a> and Philip, his father, very frequently left the table -with a very heavy head and staggering legs.<a name="anc_xxvii_4" id="anc_xxvii_4"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvii_4"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVII_4]</span></a></p> - -<p>It is reported that Dionysius the Younger, tyrant of Sicily, lost his -sight through drinking too much, which will not be wondered at, if</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="c">DESCRIPTION OF <a href="#pl_XVIII">PLATE No. XVIII.</a></p> - -<p>No. 1. Drinking-cup, of terra cotta, in the form of a pig’s head, -found at Herculaneum.—<span class="smcap">Hamilton</span>, I., IIe.</p> - -<p>No. 2. Also that of a dog’s head.—<span class="smcap">Caylus</span>, I., Plan 35.</p></div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="pl_XVIII" id="pl_XVIII"></a> -<a href="images/ill_pg_316_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_316_sml.jpg" width="597" height="1082" alt="Image not available: Pl. 18." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">Pl. 18.</span> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="pl_XVIII-a" id="pl_XVIII-a"></a> -<a href="images/ill_pg_316-a_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_316-a_sml.jpg" width="262" height="407" alt="Image not available: Pl. 18A" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">Pl. 18A</span> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_317" id="page_317"></a>{317}</span></p> - -<p class="nind">what is supposed, be true, that this miserable man was drunk every day, -without fail, for three months together!<a name="anc_xxvii_5" id="anc_xxvii_5"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvii_5"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVII_5]</span></a> Shall we mention -Tiberius—surnamed by the army, <i>Biberius</i> (Tippler)—who, after he -became Emperor, passed the days and nights drinking with Flaccus and -Piso, at the very time they were working at the reformation of the -Romans?<a name="anc_xxvii_6" id="anc_xxvii_6"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvii_6"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVII_6]</span></a></p> - -<p>This pagan Solomon, having to choose from among several very -distinguished candidates who offered themselves for the quæstorship, -preferred the least known, because he had drunk a whole pitcher of wine, -which the prince himself had condescended to fill.<a name="anc_xxvii_7" id="anc_xxvii_7"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvii_7"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVII_7]</span></a></p> - -<p>Intoxication, with the Greeks, was noted as belonging to low company, if -we are to judge by certain personages whom Æschylus and Sophocles did -not fear to bring on the stage, and who struck each other with vases—a -thing which the modern theatre has judiciously banished.<a name="anc_xxvii_8" id="anc_xxvii_8"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvii_8"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVII_8]</span></a> Homer -is more reserved; for Achilles, after copious libations, only threw a -neat’s foot at Ulysses’ head,<a name="anc_xxvii_9" id="anc_xxvii_9"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvii_9"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVII_9]</span></a> which probably was not of much -consequence.</p> - -<p>The fact is, that the ancients did not at all profess the same -principles that we do respecting intemperance. Hippocrates himself, -advised men to seek mirth now and then in wine;<a name="anc_xxvii_10" id="anc_xxvii_10"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvii_10"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVII_10]</span></a> Seneca -recommends us to drown cares and fatigue in it;<a name="anc_xxvii_11" id="anc_xxvii_11"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvii_11"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVII_11]</span></a> and Musæus -decorates with crowns of flowers the foreheads of the sages who, sitting -by the side of Plato at all new banquets, should find in continual -drunkenness the sweetest reward for their virtues.<a name="anc_xxvii_12" id="anc_xxvii_12"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvii_12"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVII_12]</span></a> A singular -bliss, which only reason in delirium could have imagined.</p> - -<p>We have spoken of the delicious beverage which was so costly a seduction -to choice epicureans, who took merit to themselves for not resisting it; -for this reason, it was necessary to invent vessels worthy of containing -it; and art, encouraged by luxury, produced those magnificent vases of -which ostentatious antiquity has only left us a faint idea.</p> - -<p>The cups of the Homeric times were all of equal capacity; one of them -was offered to each guest, but several were offered to persons of high -distinction.<a name="anc_xxvii_13" id="anc_xxvii_13"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvii_13"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVII_13]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Greeks thought much of their cups; for them they were sacred relics -from father to son, and were only used on certain solemnities. Thus -Œdipus delivers the most frightful imprecation against his son -Polynices, who had presented, at a common repast, the cup of his -ancestors.<a name="anc_xxvii_14" id="anc_xxvii_14"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvii_14"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVII_14]</span></a> That of Nestor was so large that a young man could -hardly carry it; as to him, he lifted it up without the slightest -difficulty.<a name="anc_xxvii_15" id="anc_xxvii_15"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvii_15"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVII_15]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_318" id="page_318"></a>{318}</span></p> - -<p>The Athenians drank from cups in the shape of horns.<a name="anc_xxvii_16" id="anc_xxvii_16"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvii_16"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVII_16]</span></a> Wax vases -were sufficient for the Spaniards.<a name="anc_xxvii_17" id="anc_xxvii_17"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvii_17"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVII_17]</span></a> The Gaul who had thrown -down an Urus (wild ox) took its horns, decorated them with silver and -gold rings, and made his guests drink out of them.<a name="anc_xxvii_18" id="anc_xxvii_18"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvii_18"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVII_18]</span></a> Often the -skull of an enemy, killed in single combat, was transformed into a cup -of honour, and reminded a Gallic family of the memorable action of a -valiant ancestor.<a name="anc_xxvii_19" id="anc_xxvii_19"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvii_19"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVII_19]</span></a></p> - -<p>The first cups of the Romans were made of horns, or of the earthenware -of Samos.<a name="anc_xxvii_20" id="anc_xxvii_20"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvii_20"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVII_20]</span></a> Those conquerors of the world had not yet enervated -their manly courage with the luxurious spoils of conquered nations. -Afterwards, some very simple ones were made of beech-wood<a name="anc_xxvii_21" id="anc_xxvii_21"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvii_21"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVII_21]</span></a> or -elder;<a name="anc_xxvii_22" id="anc_xxvii_22"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvii_22"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVII_22]</span></a> these possessed a marvellous property which they ought -to have always preserved—the wine only escaped from them, and they -retained the water which had been mixed with it.<a name="anc_xxvii_23" id="anc_xxvii_23"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvii_23"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVII_23]</span></a></p> - -<p>But Rome, already tired of its austere simplicity, and its disdain for -the Greek cups of glass and crystal, soon began to desire something -finer. Those magnificent chalices, master-pieces of patience and skill, -in which gold and silver were amalgamated with a more brittle -material,<a name="anc_xxvii_24" id="anc_xxvii_24"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvii_24"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVII_24]</span></a> were soon in much request, and appeared worthy of -their renown.</p> - -<p>But it is to be observed, that the crystal of which the most precious -cups were made, had not the slightest similarity to that which we make -use of now, and which the least shock will break; it was flexible and -malleable;<a name="anc_xxvii_25" id="anc_xxvii_25"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvii_25"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVII_25]</span></a> it might be thrown on the pavement with impunity, -and remained unhurt.<a name="anc_xxvii_26" id="anc_xxvii_26"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvii_26"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVII_26]</span></a></p> - -<p>Here is, on this subject, a curious anecdote, which has been left to us -by Petronius:—</p> - -<p>A certain skilful workman used to make crystal vases as strong as vases -of gold and silver. He produced an incomparable masterpiece; it was a -chalice of astonishing beauty, which he thought worthy of Cæsar only, -and which he felt a pride in offering to him. Tiberius highly praised -the skill and the rich present of the artist. This man, wishing to -increase still more the admiration of the prince, and secure his favours -to a greater degree, begged of him to give back the vase. He then threw -it with all his might on the marble pavement of the</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="c">DESCRIPTION OF <a href="#pl_XIX">PLATE No. XIX.</a></p> - -<p>Nos. 1. and 2. Drinking horns; these give us an idea how the -ancient Greeks and Romans made use of the horns: taken from two -paintings at Herculaneum.</p> - -<p>No. 3. A horn, with a chimerical head, in Grecian terra -cotta.—“<i>Herculan. Bronsi</i>,” II., 2, 3.</p></div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="pl_XIX" id="pl_XIX"></a> -<a href="images/ill_pg_317_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_317_sml.jpg" width="261" height="438" alt="Image not available: Pl. 19." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">Pl. 19.</span> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="pl_XX" id="pl_XX"></a> -<a href="images/ill_pg_318_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_318_sml.jpg" width="260" height="299" alt="Image not available: Pl. 20" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">Pl. 20</span> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_319" id="page_319"></a>{319}</span></p> - -<p class="nind">apartment: the hardest metal could never have resisted this terrible -shock. Cæsar appeared moved, and was silent. The artist, with a -triumphant smile, picked up the vase, which had only a slight dent, and -which, by striking it with the hammer, was soon brought to its original -state. This being done, no doubt remained on his mind that he had -conquered the good graces of the Emperor, and the esteem of an -astonished court. Tiberius asked him if he was the only one who knew how -to work crystal in so remarkable a manner? The workman immediately -answered that no one possessed his secret. “Very well,” said Cæsar, “let -his head be struck off without loss of time; for if this strange -invention were known, gold and silver would very soon have not the least -value.”<a name="anc_xxvii_27" id="anc_xxvii_27"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvii_27"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVII_27]</span></a> Thus did the Emperor Tiberius encourage artists and -the arts.</p> - -<p>There were, besides, cups made of the most pure crystal, “the -brittleness of which seems to have added to their price,”<a name="anc_xxvii_28" id="anc_xxvii_28"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvii_28"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVII_28]</span></a> and -which were paid for dearer than gold and precious stones;<a name="anc_xxvii_29" id="anc_xxvii_29"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvii_29"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVII_29]</span></a> but -much less, however, than those famous Murrhine vases, which have so long -exercised the useless sagacity of ancient commentators.</p> - -<p>Among the rich spoils that Pompey, conqueror of Mithridates and master -of a part of Asia, ostentatiously displayed in his triumph,<a name="anc_xxvii_30" id="anc_xxvii_30"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvii_30"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVII_30]</span></a> -the Romans, for the first time, admired vases and cups, the material and -workmanship of which surpassed all that the imagination could fancy the -most graceful and delicate.<a name="anc_xxvii_31" id="anc_xxvii_31"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvii_31"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVII_31]</span></a> They were much in request; the -price was exorbitant, and thenceforth they were indispensable. One of -the ancient consuls thought himself too happy to give only a little more -than £6,000 for one of those Murrhines. Such was the name given to this -brittle and rare novelty. Petronius paid for a large basin £28,800;</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="c">DESCRIPTION OF <a href="#pl_XX">PLATE No. XX.</a></p> - -<p>This vase, made of one single piece of crystal, is in its original -size; the delicacy of the work gives a great value to it. The body -of the vase, and all other parts in relief, are of glass. It was -discovered in 1725, and is preserved in the cabinet of the Marquis -of Trivulsi, at Milan. The fillet round the body, and those forming -the ordinary motto of the feasts—“BIBE VIVAS MULTIS ANNIS”—are -isolated from the body of the cup about one quarter of an inch, and -are attached to it by threads or fillets of glass, very fine. They -are not soldered to the cup, but the whole of the labour is worked -on a turning lathe, being seen more or less angular as the -instrument may have been led to penetrate in the most difficult -parts. The inscription is green; the fillet is blue: these two -colours are very bright. The cup is an opaque or changing colour, -without being able to distinguish whether that hue was intended to -be so, as it happens to glass which has remained a long while -buried, exposed to the vapours of a dunghill, or a sewer, &c., &c. -A second antique vase is known to exist, whose workmanship is -similar.—“<i>Histoire de l’Art</i>,” Liv. I., Chap. I., page -45.—Paris: Janson.</p></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_320" id="page_320"></a>{320}</span></p> - -<p class="nind">and Nero spent the like sum for a vase with two handles, which he forgot -two days afterwards.<a name="anc_xxvii_32" id="anc_xxvii_32"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvii_32"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVII_32]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Murrhine cups appeared on the table with the wine of the “hundred -leaves,” and the Falernian was poured into them, so as to preserve all -the generous delicacy of its odour.<a name="anc_xxvii_33" id="anc_xxvii_33"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvii_33"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVII_33]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Murrhines were much sought after, on account of their form and -brilliant transparency: they were made of mother of pearl, according to -Belon, but others say of agate. Their dimensions, however, would incline -one to doubt it. Scaliger,<a name="anc_xxvii_34" id="anc_xxvii_34"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvii_34"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVII_34]</span></a> Cardan,<a name="anc_xxvii_35" id="anc_xxvii_35"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvii_35"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVII_35]</span></a> and Madame -Dacier,<a name="anc_xxvii_36" id="anc_xxvii_36"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvii_36"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVII_36]</span></a> thought that the ancients gave unheard-of prices for -simple porcelain vases, which were precious on account of their rarity. -This opinion, which several modern <i>literati</i><a name="anc_xxvii_37" id="anc_xxvii_37"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvii_37"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVII_37]</span></a> have adopted, -rests plausibly enough, it appears, on one verse of Propertius, in which -this poet speaks of “Murrhine cups, baked in the furnace of the -Parthians.”<a name="anc_xxvii_38" id="anc_xxvii_38"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvii_38"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVII_38]</span></a> It has been said that, perhaps the Parthians -learnt from the Chinese how to make porcelain; but this supposition, -entirely void of proof, has been contradicted in a most peremptory -manner by the author of a very curious book, who demonstrates -irrefragably that the Murrhines were not of porcelain, but of stones of -the species of onyx.<a name="anc_xxvii_39" id="anc_xxvii_39"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvii_39"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVII_39]</span></a> The following fact will leave but very -little doubt on that subject:—</p> - -<p>In 1791, the Constituent National Assembly, appointed a commission to -make an inventory and valuation of all objects in the Garde-Meuble of -the crown. They found, among other very beautiful sardonyx, two very -antique vases: one made in the form of an ewer, ten inches in height and -four inches in diameter, having its handle cut out of the same piece, -and the second, hollowed out as a bowl, ten inches in diameter, which -were recognised as real Murrhines—beautiful white and blue veins and -other shades, circulated about the bowl without interfering with its -semi-transparency; the bottom was of the same colour as the ewer. The -jewellers estimated these vases at £6,000 each, although there was -nothing engraved in the hollow nor in relief, but merely on -consideration of the beauty of the material, the fineness of the polish, -and the difficulty that must have attended the hollowing out of the -ewer.<a name="anc_xxvii_40" id="anc_xxvii_40"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvii_40"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVII_40]</span></a></p> - -<p>These valuations would appear exaggerated, if it were not known that the -antique vase of the Duke of Brunswick, which formerly belonged to the -Dukes of Mantua, in 1631, and made of sardonyx, in the cruet shape, was -valued at 150,000 German crowns—or dollars of 4<i>s.</i> 3<i>d.</i> The relief</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="pl_XXI" id="pl_XXI"></a> -<a href="images/ill_pg_321_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_321_sml.jpg" width="247" height="320" alt="Image not available: Pl. 21 - -MURRHIN CUP." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">Pl. 21 - -MURRHIN CUP.</span> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_321" id="page_321"></a>{321}</span></p> - -<p class="nind">engraving represented the mysteries of Ceres and Bacchus; but it had no -primitive handle, and the diameter was only two inches and -a-half.<a name="anc_xxvii_41" id="anc_xxvii_41"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvii_41"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVII_41]</span></a></p> - -<p>By the side of these inestimable Murrhines were standing very graceful -chalices of amber, the prodigious workmanship of which absolutely gave -to them a most arbitrary value,<a name="anc_xxvii_42" id="anc_xxvii_42"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvii_42"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVII_42]</span></a> but which Roman prodigality -never found too high.</p> - -<p>Silver cups engraved were also nearly as much esteemed, when they came -from the hands of some well-known workman—such as Myos, Mentor, or -Myron.<a name="anc_xxvii_43" id="anc_xxvii_43"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvii_43"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVII_43]</span></a> They were even preferred to gold cups,<a name="anc_xxvii_44" id="anc_xxvii_44"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvii_44"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVII_44]</span></a> unless -these latter were enriched with precious stones.<a name="anc_xxvii_45" id="anc_xxvii_45"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvii_45"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVII_45]</span></a></p> - -<p>All these vases presented still greater varieties in their forms than in -the materials employed. There were very large ones, some narrow, some -oblong; many ornamented with two handles, others had only one.<a name="anc_xxvii_46" id="anc_xxvii_46"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvii_46"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVII_46]</span></a> -Some were much like a tympanon—or zoph, a musical instrument of the -ancient Hebrews—a small boat or ewer.<a name="anc_xxvii_47" id="anc_xxvii_47"></a><a href="#footnote-xxvii_47"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVII_47]</span></a> In one word, the Greek -or Roman artist never listened to anything but his own fancy, and was -then far from supposing that he was preparing very long and wakeful -hours of study to many antiquarians, zealous to explain seriously the -strange wanderings of a fantastical imagination.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="c">DESCRIPTION OF <a href="#pl_XXI">PLATE No. XXI.</a></p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Murrhine Vase.</span>—This vase is the most precious of all those which -have come down to us. It is drawn here half the original size, and -belongs to Prince de Biscari, in Sicily, which has been described -by him in the dissertation entitled, “<i>De Vasi Murrini -Ragionamenti</i>.” Three pieces of opal in the first place form the -cup; the second, the stem; and the last, the base of the foot. If -this vase is an antique, as it is said by the Prince de Biscari; if -true that several pieces of opal have often been found as large and -as fine (which appears doubtful, in the actual state of mineralogic -knowledge), the question upon the Murrhine vases would be decided. -They would have been of opal, and not porcelain; neither of -sardonyx—<i>Pierre de lard</i>—as many have believed, nor of -<i>cacholong</i> (a species of chalcedony, opaque, and of a yellowish -white), as I have described it.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_322" id="page_322"></a>{322}</span></p></div> - -<h2><a name="XXVIII" id="XXVIII"></a>XXVIII.<br /><br /> -WINE.</h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">Bacchus</span>, son of Ammon, was born in Egypt, and was the first who taught -his countrymen the art of cultivating the vine, and of making wine. He -is the same as Osiris, the famous conqueror of India.<a name="anc_xxviii_1" id="anc_xxviii_1"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_1"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_1]</span></a> Should -this assertion be contradicted, we shall only entreat any and every -disputant to make his own choice of the god of vineyards, from among the -five heroes bearing the name of Bacchus, as we are too impartial to -prefer any one in particular.<a name="anc_xxviii_2" id="anc_xxviii_2"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_2"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_2]</span></a></p> - -<p>Œnopion, worthy son of one of these heroes, enriched the inhabitants -of Chios with the first rosy wine that ever yet obscured their -reason.<a name="anc_xxviii_3" id="anc_xxviii_3"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_3"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_3]</span></a> Greece, Italy, and Sicily owed this wonderful liquor -to the Egyptians. The Gauls received this sweet present from a Tuscan, -who had been banished from Clusium, his country;<a name="anc_xxviii_4" id="anc_xxviii_4"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_4"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_4]</span></a> and the -cultivation of the grape spread rapidly till the reign of the sanguinary -Domitian, who completed the catalogue of his crimes by tearing up the -vines.<a name="anc_xxviii_5" id="anc_xxviii_5"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_5"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_5]</span></a> The Emperor Probus restored them to the disconsolate -Gauls.<a name="anc_xxviii_6" id="anc_xxviii_6"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_6"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_6]</span></a> That prince was certainly worthy of his name!</p> - -<p>Modern science, agreeing with holy writ,<a name="anc_xxviii_7" id="anc_xxviii_7"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_7"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_7]</span></a> looks upon the east -as the common cradle of the vine and the human race.</p> - -<p>Palestine was renowned for its vines. Pliny speaks in praise of -them.<a name="anc_xxviii_8" id="anc_xxviii_8"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_8"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_8]</span></a> The vineyards constituted a part of the riches of the -country, and they were preserved with the greatest care; so much so that -Moses, with an especial view to vines, forbade the sowing of different -seeds in the same field, on pain of confiscation:<a name="anc_xxviii_9" id="anc_xxviii_9"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_9"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_9]</span></a> and it was -done to encourage their cultivation, that that wise legislator exempted -every person who had planted one from military service, and from all -public duties, until the first vintage.<a name="anc_xxviii_10" id="anc_xxviii_10"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_10"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_10]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_323" id="page_323"></a>{323}</span></p> - -<p>The growths of Lebanon,<a name="anc_xxviii_11" id="anc_xxviii_11"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_11"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_11]</span></a> of Helbon,<a name="anc_xxviii_12" id="anc_xxviii_12"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_12"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_12]</span></a> and of -Sorec,<a name="anc_xxviii_13" id="anc_xxviii_13"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_13"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_13]</span></a> enjoyed an extraordinary reputation, and the delicious -wine they produced was capable of inspiring the lyric David with that -celebrated praise<a name="anc_xxviii_14" id="anc_xxviii_14"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_14"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_14]</span></a> by which intemperance has often dared to -authorize reprehensible excesses.</p> - -<p>However, the Hebrews, a sober people, like all eastern nations, rarely -made use of pure wine; they generally mixed it with a quantity of water, -and only drank a little at some ceremonial feasts, and at the end of -their repasts.<a name="anc_xxviii_15" id="anc_xxviii_15"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_15"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_15]</span></a> They sometimes mixed with it perfumes and -odoriferous drugs.<a name="anc_xxviii_16" id="anc_xxviii_16"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_16"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_16]</span></a></p> - -<p>Some nations seem to have had a great horror of wine. The Persians drank -nothing but water;<a name="anc_xxviii_17" id="anc_xxviii_17"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_17"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_17]</span></a> and the inhabitants of Pontus, the -Scythians, and the Cappadocians, partook of this strange -taste.<a name="anc_xxviii_18" id="anc_xxviii_18"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_18"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_18]</span></a> The Arcadians, who lived on chesnuts and acorns, were -not worthy of the favours of Bacchus; neither were the troglodytes, the -ichthyophagists, and other swarms of hydropotes who were as yet too -little civilized to ask of drunkenness its illusions and its -enchantments.<a name="anc_xxviii_19" id="anc_xxviii_19"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_19"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_19]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Egyptians would have thought it a profanation of their temples to -carry in a flagon of the rosy liquid; but Psammetichus came (670 <small>B.C.</small>), -and that wise prince made them understand that a pot of beer is not -worth a cup of good wine.<a name="anc_xxviii_20" id="anc_xxviii_20"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_20"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_20]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Romans asserted that their old king, Janus, planted the first vine -in Italy,<a name="anc_xxviii_21" id="anc_xxviii_21"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_21"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_21]</span></a> and that, later, Numa taught them how to trim -it.<a name="anc_xxviii_22" id="anc_xxviii_22"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_22"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_22]</span></a> That noble people knew how to appreciate such blessings, -and in order to demonstrate that wisdom is always to be found in wine, -they never failed to place on their altars the statue of Minerva beside -that of Bacchus.<a name="anc_xxviii_23" id="anc_xxviii_23"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_23"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_23]</span></a></p> - -<p>The inflexible muse of history has preserved to us the name of the -individual who doomed himself to a sorry sort of immortality by -inventing the custom of mixing water with wine; it was Cranaüs, King of -Athens, 1532 <small>B.C.</small><a name="anc_xxviii_24" id="anc_xxviii_24"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_24"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_24]</span></a> The gods, doubtless to punish him, caused a -great part of Greece to be inundated, and it was not long before he was -dethroned.<a name="anc_xxviii_25" id="anc_xxviii_25"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_25"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_25]</span></a> Pliny accuses the obscure Staphil, sou of -Sithen,<a name="anc_xxviii_26" id="anc_xxviii_26"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_26"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_26]</span></a> of this depravation of taste, which gained upon -imitators to such an extent that, in the time of Diodorus of Sicily (45 -<small>B.C.</small>), the guests still mixed water with their wine at the end of the -repast.<a name="anc_xxviii_27" id="anc_xxviii_27"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_27"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_27]</span></a> It is true that they were then all intoxicated.</p> - -<p>Lycurgus was, no doubt, ignorant of this practice, when he had the -barbarity to destroy the vines of the Lacedæmonians, under pretext of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_324" id="page_324"></a>{324}</span> -putting an end to the disorders caused by intemperance. It would have -been preferable, says Plutarch, to have united the nymphs with -Bacchus.<a name="anc_xxviii_28" id="anc_xxviii_28"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_28"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_28]</span></a> The ingenious philosopher insists on the mixture -being made by a fourth, a fifth, or an octave, in the same manner as the -chords in music, which charm our ears. The fifth was obtained by pouring -three measures of water on two of wine; one part water and two parts -wine made the octave; a quarter of wine and three quarters of water -produced the fourth,<a name="anc_xxviii_29" id="anc_xxviii_29"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_29"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_29]</span></a> a most inharmonious chord, struck only -by inexperienced and unskilful hands.</p> - -<p>Hippocrates, great physician as he was, had already somewhere -advised<a name="anc_xxviii_30" id="anc_xxviii_30"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_30"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_30]</span></a> this deplorable dereliction from all wise doctrines, -so true is it, that science sometimes goes astray; but, happily for his -glory, that learned man, further on,<a name="anc_xxviii_31" id="anc_xxviii_31"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_31"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_31]</span></a> recommends us to drink -pure wine, and to drink enough for joy to dissipate our griefs, and rock -us in the sweet errors of hope.</p> - -<p>The god of grapes had everywhere fervent admirers, except, perhaps, -among the Scythians. These schismatics refused to worship a divinity who -caused the faithful to become intoxicated.<a name="anc_xxviii_32" id="anc_xxviii_32"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_32"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_32]</span></a> In other places -they sacrificed to him a tiger, in order to show the power of his -empire;<a name="anc_xxviii_33" id="anc_xxviii_33"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_33"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_33]</span></a> and zealous disciples, with their heads crowned with -branches of the vine, holding in one hand a crater and in the other a -torch, ran with dishevelled hair about the streets, shouting to the son -of Jupiter, the terrible Evius,<a name="anc_xxviii_34" id="anc_xxviii_34"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_34"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_34]</span></a> in the silence of the -night.<a name="anc_xxviii_35" id="anc_xxviii_35"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_35"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_35]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Romans addressed to him special prayers twice a year, on the -occasion of the wine festivals,<a name="anc_xxviii_36" id="anc_xxviii_36"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_36"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_36]</span></a> which took place in the -months of May and September. In the first, they tasted the -wine;<a name="anc_xxviii_37" id="anc_xxviii_37"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_37"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_37]</span></a> and, during the second, they implored the god to grant -Italy fine weather and abundant vintages.<a name="anc_xxviii_38" id="anc_xxviii_38"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_38"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_38]</span></a></p> - -<p>The god could not reasonably refuse this request, for the vine-dressers -spared neither labour nor fatigue to procure an abundant harvest. They -were constantly seen disincumbering the plant of a too luxurious -foliage, thereby exposing the grapes to the sun’s rays, which bring them -to maturity, and breaking with indefatigable perseverance the least -clods of earth which, accumulating around the tendrils, appeared to -fatigue them by their weight.<a name="anc_xxviii_39" id="anc_xxviii_39"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_39"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_39]</span></a> And woe to the thief whom they -detected by night stealing any of these carefully reared grapes; his -crime was punished with death, unless the inexperience of youth pleaded -in his favour. In that case a severe flagellation impressed on</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="pl_XXII" id="pl_XXII"></a> -<a href="images/ill_pg_325_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_325_sml.jpg" width="297" height="482" alt="Image not available: Pl. 22." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">Pl. 22.</span> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_325" id="page_325"></a>{325}</span></p> - -<p class="nind">him permanently the remembrance of his fault and of the rights of -property.<a name="anc_xxviii_40" id="anc_xxviii_40"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_40"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_40]</span></a></p> - -<p>The imperial jurisprudence afterwards softened the Draconian rigour of -this law of the Decemviri.<a name="anc_xxviii_41" id="anc_xxviii_41"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_41"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_41]</span></a></p> - -<p>The ancients, like ourselves, were fond of seeing fresh grapes appear on -their tables at all periods of the year. They preserved them by covering -them with barley flour,<a name="anc_xxviii_42" id="anc_xxviii_42"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_42"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_42]</span></a> or by placing fine bunches in rain -water, diminished to a third by boiling. The vase was hermetically -sealed with pitch and plaster, and then placed in a spot where the sun’s -rays could not enter. This water was an excellent beverage for the -sick.<a name="anc_xxviii_43" id="anc_xxviii_43"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_43"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_43]</span></a></p> - -<p>The method of making wine was precisely the same both in Greece and -Italy.</p> - -<p>The vine gatherers carefully rejected the green grapes,<a name="anc_xxviii_44" id="anc_xxviii_44"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_44"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_44]</span></a> and -piled the others in deep baskets,<a name="anc_xxviii_45" id="anc_xxviii_45"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_45"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_45]</span></a> the contents of which were -instantly emptied into large vats. There men, hardly clothed in the -lightest garments, trampled them under their feet,<a name="anc_xxviii_46" id="anc_xxviii_46"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_46"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_46]</span></a> whilst -joyous songs and sounds of flutes hastened their movements, and animated -them to work faster.<a name="anc_xxviii_47" id="anc_xxviii_47"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_47"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_47]</span></a></p> - -<p>Wine obtained in this manner was much esteemed, and kept very -well.<a name="anc_xxviii_48" id="anc_xxviii_48"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_48"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_48]</span></a> The wort which escaped from the vat as soon as they had -thrown in the grapes, and which came from the pressure occasioned by -their laying one on the other, enjoyed the preference. This first liquor -was transformed into an exquisite wine.<a name="anc_xxviii_49" id="anc_xxviii_49"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_49"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_49]</span></a></p> - -<p>The grapes, crushed by the feet, were placed under the press,<a name="anc_xxviii_50" id="anc_xxviii_50"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_50"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_50]</span></a> -and an opening made in the lower part of the vat allowed the wort to -flow into earthen jars, whence it was subsequently poured into the -barrels.<a name="anc_xxviii_51" id="anc_xxviii_51"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_51"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_51]</span></a></p> - -<p>The press was always raised at a little distance from the cellar and -kitchen.<a name="anc_xxviii_52" id="anc_xxviii_52"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_52"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_52]</span></a> Its mechanism was very simple. The antiquities of -Herculaneum will furnish us with an example. Two trees were firmly fixed -in the ground, at a few feet distance one from the other, and a strong -horizontal beam rested on their summit. Other pieces of wood, similar</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="c">DESCRIPTION OF <a href="#pl_XXII">PLATE No. XXII.</a></p> - -<p>No. 1. Wine-press, explained in the text.</p> - -<p>No. 2. A large vase, in which a man is sitting, supposed to be -Diogenes. This amphora is broken, and the pieces are joined by ties -of lead, cut dove-tailed. It is a bass-relief, from the Villa -Albani, published by Winkelman.</p> - -<p>No. 3. Represents a beast of burthen, with a pack saddle, loaded -with two amphoræ. This piece of terra cotta, drawn the size of the -original, is taken from the collection of children’s playthings of -Prince de Biscari. The difficulty of carriage was so great in -mountainous countries, that the inhabitants of the Alps substituted -for vessels of terra cotta, casks, or wooden tubs, put together -with wooden circles, similar to our own. (See <a href="#pl_III">Plate III</a>., No. 4., -Chariot with four wheels, loaded with a cask.)<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_326" id="page_326"></a>{326}</span></p></div> - -<p class="nind">to the top piece, were placed underneath. The grapes occupied the space -between the vat and the lower plank. Between each of the cross planks -wedges were introduced, and two persons kept striking them with hammers, -one on each side; it is thus the pressure was effected.<a name="anc_xxviii_53" id="anc_xxviii_53"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_53"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_53]</span></a> Wine -from the press, inferior to those just mentioned, served for the -ordinary consumption of the family, and for the servants.<a name="anc_xxviii_54" id="anc_xxviii_54"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_54"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_54]</span></a> It -was not racked, but simply taken from the barrel as it was -wanted.<a name="anc_xxviii_55" id="anc_xxviii_55"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_55"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_55]</span></a></p> - -<p>The lees were taken from the press when it yielded no more liquor; a -certain quantity of water was poured over them, and the whole subjected -to a second pressure. The weak kind of wine obtained by this new -operation must have somewhat resembled that acrid stuff called -<i>piquette</i>, in France; it was the beverage of the people, and especially -of the country people during the winter.<a name="anc_xxviii_56" id="anc_xxviii_56"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_56"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_56]</span></a></p> - -<p>A part of the wort—that which was required for immediate use—was put -aside, and clarified with vinegar.<a name="anc_xxviii_57" id="anc_xxviii_57"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_57"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_57]</span></a> A portion of that obtained -from the crushed grapes was put to boil on furnaces, supported on three -legs, at a little distance from the press, in coppers, the contents of -which were continually stirred.<a name="anc_xxviii_58" id="anc_xxviii_58"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_58"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_58]</span></a> This liquor, reduced by a -third, was called carenum;<a name="anc_xxviii_59" id="anc_xxviii_59"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_59"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_59]</span></a> when the half only remained, it -was called <i>defrutum</i>;<a name="anc_xxviii_60" id="anc_xxviii_60"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_60"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_60]</span></a> and, lastly, when the ebullition left -only a third part remaining, this substance, very similar to honey, took -the name of <i>sapa</i>.<a name="anc_xxviii_61" id="anc_xxviii_61"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_61"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_61]</span></a> It was mixed with flour, to fatten the -snails reared by skilful speculators, who reserved them for the Roman -sybarites.<a name="anc_xxviii_62" id="anc_xxviii_62"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_62"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_62]</span></a></p> - -<p>This wort, thus prepared by night, when the moon did not -shine,<a name="anc_xxviii_63" id="anc_xxviii_63"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_63"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_63]</span></a> and carefully skimmed,<a name="anc_xxviii_64" id="anc_xxviii_64"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_64"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_64]</span></a> served to preserve -wines, to give more body to those which were thought too weak, and -became the base of several beverages sought in preference by Roman -ladies, at that period of life when maturity of years made alliance with -sensuality.<a name="anc_xxviii_65" id="anc_xxviii_65"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_65"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_65]</span></a></p> - -<p>Those who wished to preserve sweet wine during a whole year, filled with -the second wort—that is to say, that which was produced by the pression -of the feet—some amphoræ covered with pitch inside and out. They were -then hermetically sealed, and buried in the sand, or plunged in cold -water, where they remained at least two months.<a name="anc_xxviii_66" id="anc_xxviii_66"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_66"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_66]</span></a></p> - -<p>There still was left a large quantity of wort as it came from the -grapes. This was taken into the cellar,<a name="anc_xxviii_67" id="anc_xxviii_67"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_67"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_67]</span></a> which was always -situated a little below the level of the ground; or to the ground floor, -where no kind of smell was allowed to penetrate, or any emanation -capable of spoiling the bouquet of the wine it contained.<a name="anc_xxviii_68" id="anc_xxviii_68"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_68"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_68]</span></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="pl_XXIII" id="pl_XXIII"></a> -<a href="images/ill_pg_327_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_327_sml.jpg" width="291" height="459" alt="Image not available: Pl. 23." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">Pl. 23.</span> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_327" id="page_327"></a>{327}</span></p> - -<p>At Herculaneum a spacious cellar has been discovered, round which -hogsheads were ranged, and built into the wall.<a name="anc_xxviii_69" id="anc_xxviii_69"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_69"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_69]</span></a> Another -cellar, at Pompeii, remarkable for its small size, is divided into two -compartments, both containing barrels, and divided one from the other by -an horizontal wall.<a name="anc_xxviii_70" id="anc_xxviii_70"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_70"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_70]</span></a></p> - -<p>Large earthen vessels were found there, with and without handles, very -carefully executed, and smeared with pitch.<a name="anc_xxviii_71" id="anc_xxviii_71"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_71"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_71]</span></a> We know that the -cynic, Diogenes, dwelt in one of these vases; and that the king, -Alexander, found him crouching in his strange kind of -carapace.<a name="anc_xxviii_72" id="anc_xxviii_72"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_72"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_72]</span></a> The ancients had butts also, but they used them -only in cold countries.<a name="anc_xxviii_73" id="anc_xxviii_73"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_73"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_73]</span></a></p> - -<p>The <i>Dolia</i>—for so they were named—were first subjected to a -fumigation with aromatic plants; then watered with sea-water, and buried -half way in the earth. They were separated each one from another, and -strict attention was paid to see that the cellar contained neither -leather, nor cheese, nor figs, nor old casks. Sometimes persons who -inhabited the country paved the store-room, spread sand, and placed the -dolia on it.<a name="anc_xxviii_74" id="anc_xxviii_74"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_74"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_74]</span></a></p> - -<p>At the end of nine days, when the fermentation had cleared the wine from -those substances it rejects, they carefully covered the dolia, after -having smeared all the upper part of the inside, as well as the covers -themselves, with a mixture of defrutum, saffron, mastic, pitch, and pine -nuts.<a name="anc_xxviii_75" id="anc_xxviii_75"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_75"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_75]</span></a> The butts of aqueous wine were exposed to the north; -spirituous wines often braved the rain, the sun, and every change of -temperature.<a name="anc_xxviii_76" id="anc_xxviii_76"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_76"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_76]</span></a></p> - -<p>They accelerated the fining of the wine by throwing in plaster, chalk, -marble dust, salt, resin, dregs of new wine, sea-water, myrrh, and -aromatic herbs.<a name="anc_xxviii_77" id="anc_xxviii_77"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_77"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_77]</span></a> The butts were uncovered once a month, or -more frequently, in order to refresh the contents; and before the head -was put on again, it was rubbed with pine nuts.<a name="anc_xxviii_78" id="anc_xxviii_78"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_78"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_78]</span></a> Wine was also -clarified by drawing it off into another butt, and mixing yolks of eggs -beaten with</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="c">DESCRIPTION OF <a href="#pl_XXIII">PLATE No. XXIII.</a></p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Colum Nivarium.</span>—A strainer, used to separate the dregs from the -wine. Two are preserved in the collection of Herculaneum; they are -made of white metal, and worked with elegance. Each is composed of -two plates, round and concave, of four inches in diameter, supplied -with flat handles. The two dishes (as it were) and their handles -adapt to each other so well, that when put together they appear as -one; holes in great number are symmetrically perforated in the -upper dish, which keeps the dregs, and lets the clear liquid pass -through the lower one. The strainer here represented is taken from -Montfaucon’s “<i>Antiquities</i>,” and was found at Rome, towards the -end of the 17th century. It is of bronze, and ornamented. On the -handles are reliefs in silver, referring to the worship of -Bacchus.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_328" id="page_328"></a>{328}</span></p></div> - -<p class="nind">salt,<a name="anc_xxviii_79" id="anc_xxviii_79"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_79"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_79]</span></a> or straining it through the <i>colum nivarium</i> (already -described),<a name="anc_xxviii_80" id="anc_xxviii_80"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_80"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_80]</span></a> covered with a piece of linen.<a name="anc_xxviii_81" id="anc_xxviii_81"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_81"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_81]</span></a></p> - -<p>Fine wines were kept in the wood for two, three, or four years, -according to their different properties; after which they were -transferred to amphoræ, and that operation required the greatest -care.<a name="anc_xxviii_82" id="anc_xxviii_82"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_82"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_82]</span></a></p> - -<p>The amphoræ were earthen pitchers with two handles,<a name="anc_xxviii_83" id="anc_xxviii_83"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_83"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_83]</span></a> reserved -for choice wines.<a name="anc_xxviii_84" id="anc_xxviii_84"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_84"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_84]</span></a> To prevent evaporation through their pores, -they covered them with pitch, and stopped the neck with wood or cork, -covered with a mastic composed of pitch, chalk, and oil, or any other -fat substance. The name of the wine was inscribed on the amphora; its -age was indicated by the designation of the consuls who were in office -when it was made. When the amphora was of glass, it was ticketed with -these details.<a name="anc_xxviii_85" id="anc_xxviii_85"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_85"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_85]</span></a> For this kind of vessels they had store-rooms, -which were commonly at the top of the house.<a name="anc_xxviii_86" id="anc_xxviii_86"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_86"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_86]</span></a> By exposing them -to the sun and to smoke the maturity of the wine was -hastened.<a name="anc_xxviii_87" id="anc_xxviii_87"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_87"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_87]</span></a> The discovery of this means of ripening, which the -Roman œnophiles never failed to practice, was attributed to the -Consul Opimius.<a name="anc_xxviii_88" id="anc_xxviii_88"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_88"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_88]</span></a></p> - -<p>Pliny assures us that the vineyards of the entire world produce 195 -different kinds of wine; or double that number, if we reckon every -variety.<a name="anc_xxviii_89" id="anc_xxviii_89"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_89"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_89]</span></a> The whole universe, says he, furnishes only 80 of -superior quality, and of this number, two-thirds belong to -Italy.<a name="anc_xxviii_90" id="anc_xxviii_90"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_90"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_90]</span></a> Modern agriculture must have singularly disturbed the -calculations of the Roman naturalist.</p> - -<p>Let that be as it may, the best Greek wines were those of -Thasos,<a name="anc_xxviii_91" id="anc_xxviii_91"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_91"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_91]</span></a> Lesbos,<a name="anc_xxviii_92" id="anc_xxviii_92"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_92"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_92]</span></a> Chios,<a name="anc_xxviii_93" id="anc_xxviii_93"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_93"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_93]</span></a> -<a name="anc_q" id="anc_q"></a><a href="#footnote_q"><span class="fnanchor">[Q]</span></a> and -Cos.<a name="anc_xxviii_94" id="anc_xxviii_94"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_94"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_94]</span></a> Italy boasted of the Sentinum,<a name="anc_xxviii_95" id="anc_xxviii_95"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_95"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_95]</span></a> the</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="c">DESCRIPTION OF <a href="#pl_XXIV">PLATE No. XXIV.</a></p> - -<p>No. 1. Amphora, or Dolium. Upon one of the handles is engraved the -<i>sigles</i> P. S. A. X; the first two, probably, are the initials of -the proprietor, and the last describes the capacity of the vase, -being 250 quarts.—<span class="smcap">Montfaucon</span>’s “<i>Antiquities</i>,” expl.</p> - -<p>Nos. 2 and 3. Smaller Dolium, found at Herculaneum, buried at the -bottom of a cellar. The mouths of these vases were fixed in a -marble slab, and closed with a cover of the same material. There is -in the Villa Albani, an amphora of terra cotta of this kind, which -contained 18 Roman amphoræ, or 463 quarts, as marked by numerical -letters, engraved upon the outside. In 1750, one of these amphoræ -was found at Pouzzole, which was five feet six inches in height, -and five feet in diameter, containing 1,728 quarts. Several amphoræ -from Herculaneum and Pompeii have inscriptions written in colours, -and which give the name of the Prætor Nonnius; the same as those -found at Rome, which were inscribed with the name of the consul, to -fix the year of the vintage.</p></div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="pl_XXIV" id="pl_XXIV"></a> -<a href="images/ill_pg_328_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_328_sml.jpg" width="246" height="451" alt="Image not available: Pl. 24." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">Pl. 24.</span> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_329" id="page_329"></a>{329}</span></p> - -<p>Falernum,<a name="anc_xxviii_96" id="anc_xxviii_96"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_96"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_96]</span></a> the Albanum,<a name="anc_xxviii_97" id="anc_xxviii_97"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_97"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_97]</span></a> and the -Mamertinum.<a name="anc_xxviii_98" id="anc_xxviii_98"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_98"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_98]</span></a> After these, a number of other excellent wines -occupied a very distinguished place in a long nomenclature to be found -in Pliny<a name="anc_xxviii_99" id="anc_xxviii_99"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_99"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_99]</span></a> and Athenæus.<a name="anc_xxviii_100" id="anc_xxviii_100"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_100"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_100]</span></a></p> - -<p>The ancients professed to have a very particular veneration for wines of -a renowned growth, which had ripened slowly in amphoræ. Some gastronomic -archæologists produced, on their tables certain wines which had so far -dried up in leather bottles, that they were taken out in -lumps;<a name="anc_xxviii_101" id="anc_xxviii_101"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_101"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_101]</span></a> others, placed in the chimney corner, became in time -as hard as salt.<a name="anc_xxviii_102" id="anc_xxviii_102"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_102"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_102]</span></a> Petronius speaks of a wine of a hundred -leaves.<a name="anc_xxviii_103" id="anc_xxviii_103"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_103"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_103]</span></a> Pliny says that guests were served with wine more -than two hundred years old: it was as thick as honey.<a name="anc_xxviii_104" id="anc_xxviii_104"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_104"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_104]</span></a> This -wine was thinned with warm water, and passed through the straining bag -(<i>saccatio vinorum</i>).<a name="anc_xxviii_105" id="anc_xxviii_105"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_105"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_105]</span></a></p> - -<p>This predilection for good old wine was common to the -Greeks;<a name="anc_xxviii_106" id="anc_xxviii_106"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_106"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_106]</span></a> the Romans—who liked it for the bitterness it had -contracted by age;<a name="anc_xxviii_107" id="anc_xxviii_107"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_107"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_107]</span></a> and the Egyptians, who, notwithstanding -their time-honoured love of beer, were not unjust towards the beverage -with which their Osiris found it so delightful to intoxicate -himself.<a name="anc_xxviii_108" id="anc_xxviii_108"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_108"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_108]</span></a></p> - -<p>Athenæus sets no bounds to his praise of old wine. He says it is -excellent for the health; it is the best thing to dissolve the food; it -strengthens; it assists the circulation of the blood, and assures a -peaceful sleep.<a name="anc_xxviii_109" id="anc_xxviii_109"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_109"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_109]</span></a> Who, then, would be ungrateful enough to -refuse to drink?</p> - -<p>The topers of antiquity did not disdain white wine, but they seem to -have viewed it as of secondary importance. It digests easily, says the -writer just cited, but it is weak, and has but little body.<a name="anc_xxviii_110" id="anc_xxviii_110"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_110"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_110]</span></a> -Red wine, on the contrary, is full of strength and energy, and it is the -first that the inhabitants of Chios learned to make,<a name="anc_xxviii_111" id="anc_xxviii_111"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_111"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_111]</span></a> when -Œnopion, the son of Bacchus, had planted the vine in their -country.<a name="anc_xxviii_112" id="anc_xxviii_112"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_112"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_112]</span></a></p> - -<p>However, there was no lack of amateurs of white wine, and, like -ourselves, the ancients doubtless preferred it when they eat snails, -oysters, or any of those shell fish with which the Lucrine lake -abounded. They even took it into their heads (how ingenious is -gluttony!) to change red wine sometimes into white. To do this it was -only necessary to put three whites of egg, or some bean flour, into a -flagon, and shake it a long time. The same result was obtained with -ashes from the white vine.<a name="anc_xxviii_113" id="anc_xxviii_113"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_113"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_113]</span></a> -Now, is Apicius jesting with us a -little when he gives this recipe; or was it a legerdemain trick to amuse -the guests at the end of a repast, when too frequent libations had -rendered them incapable of distinguishing clearly one colour from -another?<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_330" id="page_330"></a>{330}</span></p> - -<p>The Greeks endeavoured to preclude the disastrous effects of -intoxication by putting sea-water into the wine; a mixture which they -also thought had the effect of assisting digestion. One measure of water -was enough for fifty measures of wine.<a name="anc_xxviii_114" id="anc_xxviii_114"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_114"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_114]</span></a> And, again, the -merchants of that nation took so much interest in the health of foreign -consumers that they never shipped the wines of the Archipelago for Rome -or elsewhere without diluting them in this manner. Such, for example, -was the course followed in concocting that celebrated wine of Chios, -which Cato imitated so as to deceive the best judges.<a name="anc_xxviii_115" id="anc_xxviii_115"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_115"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_115]</span></a> That -honest geoponic has transmitted us his secret. Fifty-six pints of old -sea-water are thrown into a pipe of sweet wine made with grapes dried in -the sun; or two-thirds of a bushel of salt are put into a rush basket, -and suspended in the middle of the pipe, where it is left to -melt.<a name="anc_xxviii_116" id="anc_xxviii_116"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_116"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_116]</span></a></p> - -<p>This very simple process metamorphoses the most indifferent liquor into -that delightful nectar which gave renown and fortune to the isle of Cos.</p> - -<p>The saline wine of the Greeks (<i>vinum tethalassomenon</i>) was nothing -else.<a name="anc_xxviii_117" id="anc_xxviii_117"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_117"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_117]</span></a> Their <i>thalassites</i> wine, so much in demand in Italy -on account of its apparent age, owed its reputation to the fact of its -having been plunged for some time in the sea.<a name="anc_xxviii_118" id="anc_xxviii_118"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_118"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_118]</span></a> This little -trading knavery was a tolerably innocent means of increasing the profits -of the speculator, who hastened the maturity of his wines without -employing any of those deleterious ingredients which illicit traders -have introduced at a later period. When the wine had remained a -sufficient time in the sea to give it age, it was drawn off into -goatskin bottles, well coated with pitch, and, in this manner it -supported the longest sea voyages.<a name="anc_xxviii_119" id="anc_xxviii_119"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_119"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_119]</span></a></p> - -<p>The following are the made wines most in vogue in olden times.</p> - -<p>The <i>Passum</i> was one of those most esteemed in Rome, particularly, when -it came from Crete.<a name="anc_xxviii_120" id="anc_xxviii_120"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_120"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_120]</span></a> It was made with grapes, spread in the -sun until they were reduced in weight to one-half. The pips, thus dried, -were then put into a butt containing some excellent wort. When they were -well soaked, they were crushed with the feet, and then subjected to a -slight pressure in the wine-press. Sometimes they simply plunged the -fresh grapes into boiling oil, instead of exposing them to the sun, and -the result was the same.<a name="anc_xxviii_121" id="anc_xxviii_121"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_121"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_121]</span></a></p> - -<p>The <i>Dulce</i> wine was obtained by drying the grapes in the sun for three -days, and crushing them with the feet on the fourth, at the time of the -greatest heat.<a name="anc_xxviii_122" id="anc_xxviii_122"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_122"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_122]</span></a> The Emperor Commodus thought this a most -delectable drink.<a name="anc_xxviii_123" id="anc_xxviii_123"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_123"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_123]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_331" id="page_331"></a>{331}</span></p> - -<p>The <i>Mulsum</i>, or honeyed wine, was an exquisite mixture of old Falernian -wine and new honey, from the Mount Hymettus.<a name="anc_xxviii_124" id="anc_xxviii_124"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_124"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_124]</span></a> The physician, -Cœlius Aurelianus, recommends the holding of warm mulsum in the mouth -as a palliative in cases of violent head-ache.<a name="anc_xxviii_125" id="anc_xxviii_125"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_125"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_125]</span></a></p> - -<p>The name of <i>Anisites</i> wine was given to that in which some grains of -aniseed had been infused.<a name="anc_xxviii_126" id="anc_xxviii_126"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_126"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_126]</span></a></p> - -<p>The <i>Granatum</i> was prepared by throwing thirty broken pomegranates into -a pipe of wine, and pouring over them ten pints and a-half of a -different wine, hard and sour. This drink was fit for use at the end of -thirty days.<a name="anc_xxviii_127" id="anc_xxviii_127"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_127"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_127]</span></a></p> - -<p>Apicius gives us the recipe for the <i>Rosatum</i>:—“Put,” says he, “some -rose leaves into a clean linen cloth; sew it up, and leave it seven days -in the wine; take out the roses, and put in fresh ones; repeat the -operation three times, and then strain the wine. Add some honey at the -time of drinking. The roses must be fresh, and free from -dew.”<a name="anc_xxviii_128" id="anc_xxviii_128"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_128"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_128]</span></a></p> - -<p>The <i>Violatum</i> is made in the same manner, only violets are used instead -of roses.<a name="anc_xxviii_129" id="anc_xxviii_129"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_129"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_129]</span></a></p> - -<p>Rosatum may also be obtained without roses, by putting a small basket -filled with green lemon leaves into a barrel of new wine before the -fermentation has taken place, and leaving them there for forty days. -This wine is to be mixed with honey before it is drunk.<a name="anc_xxviii_130" id="anc_xxviii_130"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_130"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_130]</span></a></p> - -<p>Myrrh wine—<i>Myrrhinum</i>, among the ancients—was wine mixed with a -little myrrh, to render it better and make it keep longer. They thought -much of it.<a name="anc_xxviii_131" id="anc_xxviii_131"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_131"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_131]</span></a></p> - -<p>All these wines, like those previously mentioned, were strained through -the <i>colum vinarium</i> before they were served to the guests. This -strainer was composed of two round, deep dishes, of four inches in -diameter. The upper part was pierced, and received the wine, which ran -into the lower recipient, whence the cups were filled.<a name="anc_xxviii_132" id="anc_xxviii_132"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_132"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_132]</span></a></p> - -<p>In Rome the price of common wine—sometimes adulterated<a name="anc_xxviii_133" id="anc_xxviii_133"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_133"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_133]</span></a>—was -300 sesterces for 40 urns, or 15 sesterces for an amphora; that is to -say, about sixpence per gallon.<a name="anc_xxviii_134" id="anc_xxviii_134"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_134"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_134]</span></a> At Athens it was thought -dear when it cost fourpence per gallon. This measure was commonly sold -for not more than twopence.<a name="anc_xxviii_135" id="anc_xxviii_135"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_135"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_135]</span></a></p> - -<p>In the early days of the Roman republic women were forbidden to drink -wine;<a name="anc_xxviii_136" id="anc_xxviii_136"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_136"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_136]</span></a> but that law fell into disuse, and noble matrons often -carried intemperance as far as their toping husbands.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_332" id="page_332"></a>{332}</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>LIQUEUR WINE.</h3> - -<p>It must be owned that the Roman law was, for a long time, tyrannical in -the extreme with regard to women. Totally interdict the use of wine! -Kill the unfortunate creatures who were unable to resist the seductions -of that dangerous liquor! For the Roman history furnishes us with more -than one example of that atrocious chastisement inflicted on the guilty -thirst of the fair sex. The barbarous Micennius immolated his wife on -the butt, at which he caught her one day, quenching her thirst at the -tap or the bunghole. The ferocious Romulus thought this act simple and -natural: he did not even reprimand the cruel husband.<a name="anc_xxviii_137" id="anc_xxviii_137"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_137"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_137]</span></a></p> - -<p>Another unfortunate creature discovered the place where her husband kept -the keys of the cellar. She took them, and had the imprudent curiosity -to go and visit the mysterious and inauspicious treasure, to which she -was forbidden all access. Her family perceived this innocent larceny, -and refused her every kind of food, to punish her for an imaginary -crime. She died in the tortures of hunger.<a name="anc_xxviii_138" id="anc_xxviii_138"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_138"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_138]</span></a></p> - -<p>Is it necessary to speak of C. Domitius, that uncourteous judge, who -deprived a lady of her marriage portion because she had taken the -liberty to drink a spoonful or two of wine unknown to her lord and -master?<a name="anc_xxviii_139" id="anc_xxviii_139"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_139"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_139]</span></a> But, let us say it at once—Roman civilisation put -an end to such strange manners; and so early as the age of Augustus, -Livia, the consort of that emperor, affirmed, when eighty-two years old, -that she was indebted to Bacchus for her long existence.<a name="anc_xxviii_140" id="anc_xxviii_140"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_140"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_140]</span></a> Let -us remark, by the way, that the great prince, her husband, honoured the -labours of the vine-dresser and the serious study of wines,<a name="anc_xxviii_141" id="anc_xxviii_141"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_141"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_141]</span></a> -to which little attention had been paid down to his time. It began then -to be understood that this grateful drink draws the ties of friendship -closer,<a name="anc_xxviii_142" id="anc_xxviii_142"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_142"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_142]</span></a> and all honest people, all generous souls, were -eager to taste it.</p> - -<p>The good Trajan quaffed off numberless cups every day: of course he -became the idol of the human species.<a name="anc_xxviii_143" id="anc_xxviii_143"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_143"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_143]</span></a> Agricola wished to -drink before he died.<a name="anc_xxviii_144" id="anc_xxviii_144"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_144"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_144]</span></a> -The imbecile Claudius often found some ray of -wisdom at the bottom of an amphora.<a name="anc_xxviii_145" id="anc_xxviii_145"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_145"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_145]</span></a> Domitian merited the -pardon<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_333" id="page_333"></a>{333}</span> of his crimes, thanks to the streams of wine which during the -night ran from the fountains;<a name="anc_xxviii_146" id="anc_xxviii_146"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_146"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_146]</span></a> and Caligula would, perhaps, -have obtained that popularity which always failed him, had he possessed -sufficient sense to offer to the Roman people the delicious Falernian -wine he allotted to his favourite horse.<a name="anc_xxviii_147" id="anc_xxviii_147"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_147"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_147]</span></a></p> - -<p>The ladies ventured, in the first place, to wet their lips with a few -drops of those light wines which the sun seemed to ripen for them at -Tibur, in the environs of Cumæ, and throughout Campania.<a name="anc_xxviii_148" id="anc_xxviii_148"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_148"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_148]</span></a> -After a short time, they braved the Falernian itself—true, they -generally mixed it with iced water or snow;<a name="anc_xxviii_149" id="anc_xxviii_149"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_149"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_149]</span></a> but the boldest -are reported to have risked that dangerous liquor without taking such -timid precautions. Falernian was a noble wine! They began to drink it as -soon as it had reached its tenth year. Then it was possible to bear up -against it. When it was twenty years old, it could only be mastered -after it was diluted with water. If older, it was unconquerable; it -attacked the nerves, and caused excruciating headache.<a name="anc_xxviii_150" id="anc_xxviii_150"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_150"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_150]</span></a> The -ladies struggled a long time for the victory; but, alas! the Falernian -always had the best of it. Tired out, at length, with so many useless -efforts, the wisest of them left it to their husbands, and sought other -beverages which possessed less dangerous charms. Greece and Italy -invented new drinks for them, which had a well-merited vogue, -notwithstanding the discredit into which they have fallen for many -centuries past. Our modern beauties would smile with an air of -incredulity if we were to extol asparagus wine, winter savory wine, wild -marjoram wine, parsley seed wine, or those made from mint, rue, -pennyroyal, and wild thyme; and yet these liquors were the delectable -drinks of the most distinguished women of ancient Rome, of those women -who could never find in the culinary productions of the entire universe -anything sufficiently delicate or rare. Are we, then, to blame their -taste, or question our own?</p> - -<p>Leaving aside this knotty question, which we do not feel ourselves -called upon to resolve, let us state that these different drinks were -prepared in a very simple manner. Two handfuls of one of the above-named -plants were put into a butt of wort; a pint of sapa and half a pint of -sea-water were added.<a name="anc_xxviii_151" id="anc_xxviii_151"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_151"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_151]</span></a> This wine was drunk by the Greek and -Roman ladies at breakfast,<a name="anc_xxviii_152" id="anc_xxviii_152"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_152"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_152]</span></a> and was an excellent substitute -for the <i>silatum</i>, a drink prepared with ochre, and which we can hardly -believe to have been introduced by sensuality alone.<a name="anc_xxviii_153" id="anc_xxviii_153"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_153"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_153]</span></a></p> - -<p>It frequently happened, after a banquet, that the wearied and palled<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_334" id="page_334"></a>{334}</span> -stomach refused with loathing the least nourishment. An intelligent -slave failed not, under such circumstances, to present his languishing -mistress with a cup of wormwood wine, before she quitted her couch. -Anon, the livid paleness of her complexion brightened into the rosy hue -of health, the dimmed eye resumed its wonted lustre, and that very -evening the brilliant matron could seat herself fearlessly at a fresh -banquet. That precious wine, that fashionable tonic, which modern -sobriety—be it said to our praise—has rendered almost useless, sold -well in Rome under the reigns of the Emperors. It was composed by -boiling a pound of wormwood in 240 pints of wort until it was diminished -one-third. There was also a more simple method of making it, which was -to throw a few handfuls of wormwood into a butt of wine.<a name="anc_xxviii_154" id="anc_xxviii_154"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_154"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_154]</span></a></p> - -<p>The live wood, or the leaves of the cedar, the cypress, the laurel, the -juniper-tree, or the turpentine-tree, boiled a long time in wort, -produced different bitter liqueurs, to which intemperance complacently -attributed benign qualities and numerous medical virtues.<a name="anc_xxviii_155" id="anc_xxviii_155"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_155"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_155]</span></a> -Equal praise may be accorded to hyssop wine, that famous mixture of -three ounces of the plant in twelve pints of wort.<a name="anc_xxviii_156" id="anc_xxviii_156"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_156"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_156]</span></a> Its -effects were surprising, and the most popular physicians would not have -failed to prescribe it for their languishing patients, whose strength -and gaiety it restored.</p> - -<p>But, thank Heaven! our Roman beauties were not always obliged to have -recourse to the gloomy experience of the disciples of Æsculapius; and -when they were in good health, more exhilarating liqueurs lent their aid -to toast their return to health and pleasure. They were then seen -sipping myrtle wine, a mild beverage, the light vapours of which brought -down calm and profound sleep. It was wisdom to drink it; for, alas! not -all that would, can sleep! If the reader be troubled with wakefulness, -he will hail with joy the recipe for this beneficent narcotic. Let him -take young myrtle branches with the leaves, pound them, and boil one -pound in eighteen pints of white wine, until it is reduced to -two-thirds.<a name="anc_xxviii_157" id="anc_xxviii_157"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_157"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_157]</span></a> Let him drink this liqueur of the Roman ladies, -and, without doubt, he will sleep as they did.</p> - -<p>The <i>petites maîtresses</i>, those delicate women, whose life seemed to be -a tissue of vapours mingled with tears—Rome abounded with them—would -have fainted even at the smell of the wines made up in the manner -indicated above. Their frail, nervous organization, required a different -kind of drink, and one was invented for them,—the <i>Adynamon</i>. This -adynamon, or wine without strength, was the most inoffensive of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_335" id="page_335"></a>{335}</span> -liqueurs. It was obtained by boiling ten pints of water in twenty pints -of white wort.<a name="anc_xxviii_158" id="anc_xxviii_158"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_158"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_158]</span></a> A small cup of this salutary beverage -restored a debile Cynthia, a sickly Julia, when, negligently seated at -her toilet, a Bœotian slave brought a nosegay of lilies instead of a -crown of roses. These charming creatures would soon have lost the use of -their senses, if the adynamon had not been promptly applied to their -lips. But hardly had they tasted the marvellous liqueur when animation -resumed its calm and peaceful course; nay, after the lapse of a few -seconds, they were enabled, without any inconvenience whatever, to -witness the chastisement of the slave, whose naked shoulders and breasts -were lacerated by their orders with a thong studded with sharp -points.<a name="anc_xxviii_159" id="anc_xxviii_159"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_159"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_159]</span></a> Who, after that, would dare doubt the properties of -the adynamon wine?</p> - -<p>The <i>Œnanthinum</i> wine was destined for more vigorous constitutions, -for natures of less exquisite delicacy. The Roman ladies, somewhat fond -of rusticating, who passed a part of the year in their villas, prepared -it by putting two pounds of wild vine flowers into a butt of wort. They -were left there thirty days, and then the liquor was drawn off into -other vessels.<a name="anc_xxviii_160" id="anc_xxviii_160"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_160"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_160]</span></a></p> - -<p>Such were the vinous drinks which fashion formerly brought into repute -in the capital of the world. The women set no bounds to their taste for -these concocted wines; but went on from one excess to another as long as -the empire lasted. These strange habits, now buried under the Roman -colossus, have been replaced by a new order of civilisation. Woman, that -graceful being of whom antiquity was not worthy, now appears such as -Christianity has made her, to reveal to us virtues which ancient Greece -and Italy never knew. Daughter, wife, and mother, she consoles, -encourages, and supports man amid the trials of life. Her sweet smile -welcomes him at the cradle; her prayer accompanies him to the tomb. It -was she who softened the ferocious instincts of the barbarous hordes -that the forests of the north vomited over Europe; and still exercising -her empire over modern society, she is hailed as a queen, whose virtues -and chaste attractions render her the living embodiment of the flower -and the angel, those sweet symbols of love and beauty, between which a -modern poet has gracefully placed her throne.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p>The primitive inhabitants of Great Britain learned from the Romans to -plant the vine, under the reign of the Emperor Probus. The conquerors<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_336" id="page_336"></a>{336}</span> -taught them also the art of cutting it, and how to make wine. But, as -Strutt observes, the vine could never be of any great utility in this -country. It was more ornamental than useful, with the exception that it -afforded the means of procuring a cool retreat and shade. -<a name="anc_xxviii_161" id="anc_xxviii_161"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_161"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_161]</span></a> -However, -some provinces of England became celebrated for their wines. “The county -of Gloucester is renowned for its vines,” says William of Malmesbury; -“and the wines it produces are scarcely inferior to those of -France.”<a name="anc_xxviii_162" id="anc_xxviii_162"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_162"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_162]</span></a></p> - -<p>Saint-Louis was the first who established statutes for the dealers in -wine.<a name="anc_xxviii_163" id="anc_xxviii_163"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_163"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_163]</span></a> New ones were framed in 1585,<a name="anc_xxviii_164" id="anc_xxviii_164"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_164"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_164]</span></a> and the -dealers were then divided into four classes, each of which was -designated by a particular name, viz., the inn-keepers, the publicans, -the tavern-keepers, and the wine-dealers by measure. The inn-keepers had -accommodation for man and horse; the publicans served drink with -table-cloth and plates—that is to say, they might serve food and drink -at the same time; the tavern-keepers served drink alone; and the retail -dealers could only sell it in considerable quantities at one -time.<a name="anc_xxviii_165" id="anc_xxviii_165"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_165"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_165]</span></a> In 1680 these four classes were reduced to -two—wine-merchants and retail wine-dealers.</p> - -<p>Under the reign of Louis XIV., a great dispute arose concerning the -relative merits of Burgundy and Champagne wines, and the preference due -to the one or the other. This quarrel originated in a thesis, maintained -at the commencement of the 17th century at the Medical School of Paris, -in which it was asserted, that the wine of Beaune, in Burgundy, was not -only the most agreeable but the most wholesome. This thesis excited no -murmur at the time: from the 13th century the wine of Beaune had always -enjoyed the highest reputation, and no one dreamed of disputing it. But -forty years later they risked a proposition much more rash than the -preceding one: it was maintained, in the same school, that the wines of -Burgundy were not only preferable to those of Champagne, but that the -latter attack the nerves, cause a fermentation of the humours, and -infallibly bring on the gout in persons not naturally subject to it. -They fortified this incredible opinion with the authority of the -celebrated Fagon, chief physician of Louis XIV., who had just forbidden -the king, as they said, the use of Champagne wine.</p> - -<p>The Champagne people took fire—it was time—the dangerous heresy -threatened to spread; so they attacked the Burgundians bravely. The -latter defended themselves with equal courage. The battle waxed warm. -Each party sought to crush their antagonists with heavy<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_337" id="page_337"></a>{337}</span> writings. The -inhabitants of Burgundy pretended that the wine of Champagne owed its -vogue entirely to the influence of Colbert and Louvois, the then -ministers, one of whom was a native of Champagne, and the other in -possession of immense vineyards. The Champagne growers proved that this -assertion was false in every particular. Long before the time of these -two statesmen, said they, the French got tipsy on Champagne wine; ergo, -they valued that exhilarating liquor. This argument was irrefragable. -They might have added that, from the 16th century, the wine of Aï, a -canton of Champagne, enjoyed such renown that the Emperor Charles V., -Pope Leo X., Henry VIII. of England, and Francis I. of France, were -anxious to possess this nectar, and tradition assures us that each of -these great sovereigns purchased a close at Aï, in which a little house -was built for a vine-dresser, who sent them every year a stock of wine, -which enlivened their repasts.<a name="anc_xxviii_166" id="anc_xxviii_166"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_166"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_166]</span></a></p> - -<p>The epicureans took part in this great discussion, and that they might -give their judgment after mature deliberation, founded on a perfect -knowledge of facts, they have been tasting Champagne and Burgundy wines -these two hundred years. May the vouchers in this suit never fail them!</p> - -<p>Wine was long used for presents and fees—a custom established under -Charlemagne. After a baptism, a marriage, or a burial, the priests -received the <i>vicar’s wine</i>; before marriage, <i>wedding wine</i> was offered -to the intended bride; after a law-suit, the counsellor was presented -with <i>clerk’s wine</i>; the <i>wine of citizenship</i> was given to the mayor of -a town in which any person took up his abode. This present subsequently -took the name of <i>pot-de-vin</i> (bribe), still in great favour. It has -changed its character, certainly, but the variations have multiplied to -infinity.<a name="anc_xxviii_167" id="anc_xxviii_167"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_167"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_167]</span></a></p> - -<p>In the middle ages sober people intoxicated themselves regularly once a -month. Arnaud de Villeneuve examines seriously the advantages of this -Hygienic custom.<a name="anc_xxviii_168" id="anc_xxviii_168"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_168"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_168]</span></a> There was a kind of glory attached to the -swallowing of more wine than any other man without being <i>non compos -mentis</i>. There was, however, a means of avoiding these bacchanalian -encounters. It was, to choose a champion who, as in judicial combats, -accepted the challenges for his candidate, to whom the victory or defeat -was attributed, as if he himself had drank.<a name="anc_xxviii_169" id="anc_xxviii_169"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_169"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_169]</span></a></p> - -<p>In the middle ages, and in the 16th century, intoxication was severely -punished in France.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_338" id="page_338"></a>{338}</span></p> - -<p>By five ordinances, in the years 802, 803, 810, 812, and 813, -Charlemagne declares habitual drinkers unworthy of being heard before -courts of justice in their own cause, or as witness for -another.<a name="anc_xxviii_170" id="anc_xxviii_170"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_170"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_170]</span></a></p> - -<p>Francis I. decreed, by an edict, in the month of August, 1536, that -whosoever should be found intoxicated was to be imprisoned on bread and -water for the first offence; the second time, flogging in the prison was -added; the third time, he was publicly flogged; and if the offender was -incorrigible, his ears were out off, he was deemed infamous, and -banished the kingdom.<a name="anc_xxviii_171" id="anc_xxviii_171"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_171"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_171]</span></a></p> - -<p>Now every one is free to quench his thirst, and drink more if he -chooses.</p> - -<p>“<i>The Crafte to make Ypocras.</i>—Take a quarte of red wine, an ounce of -synamon, ane halfe an once (ounce) of gynger, a quarter of an unnce -(ounce) of greynes and long pepper, and halfe a pound of suger, and -brose all this (not too small), and then put them in a bage of wullen -clothe, made therefore (for that purpose), with the wire, and it hange -over a vessel tyll the wine be run thorowe -(through).”<a name="anc_xxviii_172" id="anc_xxviii_172"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_172"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_172]</span></a>—Quoted by <span class="smcap">Strutt</span>.</p> - -<p>The English were extremely partial to a drink they called <i>Clarey</i>, or -<i>Clarre</i>. According to Arnold<a name="anc_xxviii_173" id="anc_xxviii_173"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_173"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_173]</span></a> it was compounded in the -following manner:—</p> - -<p>“For eighteen gallons of good wyne, take halfe a pounde of ginger, -quarter of a pound of long peper, an ounce of safron, a quarter of an -ounce of coliaundyr, two ounces of calomole dromatycus, and the third -part as much honey that is clarifyed as of youre wyne, streyne them -through a cloth, and do it into a clene vessell.”</p> - -<p>John, in the first year of his reign, made a law that a tun of Rochelle -wine should not be sold for more than twenty shillings, a tun of wine -from Anjou for twenty-three shillings, and a tun of French wine for -twenty-five shillings, except some that might be of the very best sort, -which was allowed to be raised to twenty-six shillings and fourpence, -but not for more, in any case. By retail, a gallon of Rochelle wine was -to be sold for fourpence, and a gallon of white wine for sixpence, and -no dearer.<a name="anc_xxviii_174" id="anc_xxviii_174"></a><a href="#footnote-xxviii_174"><span class="fnanchor">[XXVIII_174]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_339" id="page_339"></a>{339}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="XXIX" id="XXIX"></a>XXIX.<br /><br /> -REPASTS.</h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">Mortals</span> were formerly remarkably sober, and the gods themselves set them -the example, by feeding exclusively on ambrosia and nectar.<a name="anc_xxix_1" id="anc_xxix_1"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_1"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_1]</span></a> The -most illustrious warriors in the Homeric ages were generally contented -with a piece of roast beef; for a festival, or a wedding dinner, the -frugal fare was a piece of roast beef; and the king of kings, the -pompous Agamemnon, offered no greater rarity to the august chiefs of -Greece, assembled round his hospitable table. It is true that the guest -to be most honoured received for his own share an entire fillet of -beef.<a name="anc_xxix_2" id="anc_xxix_2"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_2"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_2]</span></a></p> - -<p>The vigorous but uncultivated appetites of these heroes were hardly -satisfied when everything disappeared, and none of them thought to -prolong the pleasures of good cheer.<a name="anc_xxix_3" id="anc_xxix_3"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_3"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_3]</span></a> Happy times of ingenuous -and ignorant frugality! what has become of you?</p> - -<p>It must not, however, be imagined that they were entirely destitute of -more refined aliments. Homer gives to the Hellespont the epithet of -<i>fishy</i>; Ithaca, and several other islands of Greece, abounded in -excellent game;<a name="anc_xxix_4" id="anc_xxix_4"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_4"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_4]</span></a> but the magiric genius was asleep—it awoke at a -later period.</p> - -<p>Beware, however, of a mistake: those men—with so little choice -respecting their viands—all possessed stomachs of astounding -capacity.<a name="anc_xxix_5" id="anc_xxix_5"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_5"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_5]</span></a> Theagenes, an athlete of Thasos, eat a whole -bull;<a name="anc_xxix_6" id="anc_xxix_6"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_6"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_6]</span></a> Milo of Crotona did the same thing—at least once.<a name="anc_xxix_7" id="anc_xxix_7"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_7"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_7]</span></a> -Titormus had an ox served for supper, and when he rose from table, they -say not a morsel remained.<a name="anc_xxix_8" id="anc_xxix_8"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_8"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_8]</span></a> Astydamas of Miletus, invited to -supper by the Persian, Ariobarzanes, devoured a feast prepared for nine -persons.<a name="anc_xxix_9" id="anc_xxix_9"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_9"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_9]</span></a> Cambis, King of Lydia, had such an unfortunate -appetite, that one night the glutton devoured his wife!<a name="anc_xxix_10" id="anc_xxix_10"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_10"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_10]</span></a> Thys, -King of the Paphlagonians, was afflicted with voracity<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_340" id="page_340"></a>{340}</span> nearly -similar.<a name="anc_xxix_11" id="anc_xxix_11"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_11"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_11]</span></a> The Persian Cantibaris, eat so much and so long that -his jaws were at last tired, and then attentive servants used to press -the food into his mouth.<a name="anc_xxix_12" id="anc_xxix_12"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_12"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_12]</span></a></p> - -<p>These are facts of which we do not exactly guarantee the truth, for -history—it is no secret—has some little resemblance to the microscope: -it frequently magnifies objects by presenting them to us through its -deceitful prism.</p> - -<p>We close this singularly incomplete list of the ancient polyphagists by -adding that the Pharsalians<a name="anc_xxix_13" id="anc_xxix_13"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_13"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_13]</span></a> and the Thessalians<a name="anc_xxix_14" id="anc_xxix_14"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_14"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_14]</span></a> were -redoubtable eaters, and that the Egyptians consumed a prodigious -quantity of bread.<a name="anc_xxix_15" id="anc_xxix_15"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_15"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_15]</span></a></p> - -<p>In more modern times, some men have acquired, by the energy of their -hunger, an illustration they would have vainly demanded from their -genius or their virtues. The Emperor Claudius sat down to table at all -hours and in any place. One day, when he was dispensing justice -according to his own fashion in the market-place of Augustus, his -olfactory nerves scented the delicious odour of a feast which exhaled -from one of the neighbouring temples. It was the priests of Mars, who -were merry-making at the expense of the good souls in the surrounding -locality. The glutton emperor immediately left his judgment-seat, and, -without any further ceremony, went and asked them for a knife and -fork.<a name="anc_xxix_16" id="anc_xxix_16"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_16"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_16]</span></a> Never, no, never, adds the biographer of this prince, did -he leave a repast until he was distended with food and soaked with -drink, and then only to sleep. Yes, the ignoble Cæsar slept; but still, -the “peacock’s feather,” an unseemly invention of Roman turpitude, was -called into requisition to prepare the monarch for new -excesses.<a name="anc_xxix_17" id="anc_xxix_17"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_17"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_17]</span></a></p> - -<p>Galba could taste nothing if he was not served with inconceivable -profusion. His stomach imposed limits upon him, but his eyes knew none; -and when he had gloated to his heart’s content upon the magnificent -spectacle of innumerable viands for which the universe had been -ransacked, he would have the imperial dessert taken slowly round the -table, and then heaped up to a prodigious height before the astonished -guests.<a name="anc_xxix_18" id="anc_xxix_18"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_18"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_18]</span></a></p> - -<p>Vitellius, the boldest liver, perhaps, of the whole imperial crew, and -the most active polyphagist of past times, caused himself to be invited -the same day to several senatorial families. This deplorable honour -often caused their ruin, for each repast cost not less than 400,000 -sesterces (£3,200). The intrepid Vitellius was equal to the whole,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_341" id="page_341"></a>{341}</span> -thanks to the peacock’s feather, which, doubtless, was cursed more than -once by the unfortunate victims of his dreadful gluttony.<a name="anc_xxix_19" id="anc_xxix_19"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_19"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_19]</span></a></p> - -<p>True, this poor prince was continually tormented with a hunger that no -aliment seemed capable of satisfying. In the sacrifices, like the -Harpies of whom Virgil speaks,<a name="anc_xxix_20" id="anc_xxix_20"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_20"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_20]</span></a> he took the half-roasted viands -from the altars, and disputed the sacred cakes with the gods. As he -passed through the streets he seized the smoking-hot food spread out -before the shops and public-houses; he did not even disdain the -disgusting scraps that a miserable plebeian had gnawed the evening -before, and which a hunger-stricken slave would have hardly contested -with him.<a name="anc_xxix_21" id="anc_xxix_21"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_21"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_21]</span></a></p> - -<p>Such were the masters of the world, the proud Cæsars! before whom -haughty Rome bowed the head and trembled, and from whom it basely -implored a smile, up to that day when some soldiers, tired of their -shameful obedience, kicked the imperial corpse into the Tiber, after -having mutilated it in presence of the populace, who crowded joyously -around the Gemoniæ.<a name="anc_xxix_22" id="anc_xxix_22"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_22"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_22]</span></a></p> - -<p>These terrific examples of insatiable voracity have become rare and -obscure. A few isolated facts may perhaps be met with at very distant -periods, which remind us of the polyphagic celebrities of Greece and -Italy. There are, however, two which would have merited the attention of -Vitellius himself.</p> - -<p>The ingenuous Fuller<a name="anc_xxix_23" id="anc_xxix_23"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_23"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_23]</span></a> speaks of a man, named Nicholas Wood, to -whom the county of Kent proudly claims the honour of having given birth, -who once eat a whole sheep at one meal. One day three dozen of pigeons -were placed before him, of which he left only the bones. Another day, -being at Lord Wootton’s, and having a good appetite, he devoured -eighty-four rabbits and eighteen yards of black-pudding for his -breakfast. We leave to Fuller the responsibility of the figures. Any -how, the brave Nicholas Wood must have been a vigorous trencher-man!</p> - -<p>The second anecdote is from Berchoux:—</p> - -<p>Marshal Villars had a house-porter who was an enormous eater. “Franz,” -said he, one day, “tell me, now, how many loins you could eat?” “Ah! my -lord, as for loins, not many: five or six at most.” “And how many legs -of mutton?” “Ah! as for legs of mutton, not many: seven or eight -perhaps.” “And fatted pullets?” “Ah! as for pullets, my lord, not many: -not more than a dozen.” “And pigeons?” “Ah! as for pigeons, not many: -perhaps forty—fifty at<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_342" id="page_342"></a>{342}</span> most, according to the appetite.” “And larks?” -“Ah! as for that, my lord—little larks—for ever, my lord, for -ever!”<a name="anc_xxix_24" id="anc_xxix_24"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_24"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_24]</span></a></p> - -<p>A truce to gluttons. Let us speak of epicureans.</p> - -<p>It is to them that gastronomic civilization owes the laws by which it is -regulated; they were the legislators of the table: they introduced -regularity and order at repasts. The breakfast, dinner, collation, and -supper were created by those sages. Fashion has often modified the -nomenclature, but assuredly it will never be able to supersede it.</p> - -<p>The Greeks submitted to it for many years;<a name="anc_xxix_25" id="anc_xxix_25"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_25"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_25]</span></a> and then, that -fickle people, whom everything wearied, declined the drudgery of -masticating so frequently. The lower orders and the army eat twice a -day;<a name="anc_xxix_26" id="anc_xxix_26"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_26"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_26]</span></a> the fashionable people contented themselves with one -repast,<a name="anc_xxix_27" id="anc_xxix_27"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_27"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_27]</span></a> which some had served at mid-day,<a name="anc_xxix_28" id="anc_xxix_28"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_28"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_28]</span></a> -but the greater -part just before sunset.<a name="anc_xxix_29" id="anc_xxix_29"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_29"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_29]</span></a> The party of resistance had, as yet, -yielded only on one point—the collation; and they continued bravely to -breakfast, dine, and sup.<a name="anc_xxix_30" id="anc_xxix_30"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_30"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_30]</span></a> But the monophagists were not sparing -in their jokes, and the new fashion triumphed at last over the -prescription of ancient usages.<a name="anc_xxix_31" id="anc_xxix_31"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_31"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_31]</span></a> Pagan sobriety was doubtless -far from suspecting that the Book of Ecclesiastes, in accordance with it -on this subject, pronounces an anathema against the kingdom whose -princes eat in the morning.<a name="anc_xxix_32" id="anc_xxix_32"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_32"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_32]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Greek manners were introduced in Rome, and persons of a certain -rank, who did not make a profession of gluttony, gave themselves up to -the pleasures of the table only once a day.<a name="anc_xxix_33" id="anc_xxix_33"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_33"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_33]</span></a></p> - -<p>The tyranny of fashion was not, however, such that all persons thought -themselves bound to obey it under pain of being shamed and ridiculed. -Many unscrupulously transgressed its laws, and more than one respectable -Greek of good family, following the example of Ulysses, who prepared his -breakfast at sun-rise,<a name="anc_xxix_34" id="anc_xxix_34"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_34"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_34]</span></a> had the <i>acratism</i> brought so soon as -the crowing of the cock announced the return of day.<a name="anc_xxix_35" id="anc_xxix_35"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_35"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_35]</span></a> This -frugal breakfast was composed of bread steeped in pure wine.<a name="anc_xxix_36" id="anc_xxix_36"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_36"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_36]</span></a> -The adults restricted themselves to this slight repast, but the children -received more substantial nourishment.<a name="anc_xxix_37" id="anc_xxix_37"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_37"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_37]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Romans, when they were not asleep, breakfasted at three or four -o’clock in the morning.<a name="anc_xxix_38" id="anc_xxix_38"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_38"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_38]</span></a> A little bread and cheese,<a name="anc_xxix_39" id="anc_xxix_39"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_39"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_39]</span></a> or -dry fruits,<a name="anc_xxix_40" id="anc_xxix_40"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_40"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_40]</span></a> enabled them to wait for the solemn hour of the -banquets.</p> - -<p>It would appear that the Jews dined at mid-day;<a name="anc_xxix_41" id="anc_xxix_41"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_41"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_41]</span></a> it was the hour -at which St. Peter was hungry.<a name="anc_xxix_42" id="anc_xxix_42"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_42"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_42]</span></a> This repast took place also -among the Greeks about the middle of the day,<a name="anc_xxix_43" id="anc_xxix_43"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_43"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_43]</span></a> if we are to -believe Athenæus.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_343" id="page_343"></a>{343}</span> However, Cicero relates that the philosopher Plato -appeared to be very much astonished, when travelling in Italy, to see -the inhabitants eat twice every day.<a name="anc_xxix_44" id="anc_xxix_44"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_44"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_44]</span></a> It will only be necessary -to repeat that the supper alone formed the rule, and that the breakfast -and dinner were exceptions; they depended entirely upon the casualties -of will.</p> - -<p>About mid-day<a name="anc_xxix_45" id="anc_xxix_45"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_45"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_45]</span></a> the sober Romans had a slight collation.<a name="anc_xxix_46" id="anc_xxix_46"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_46"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_46]</span></a> -Seneca, who never loses sight of himself in his fastidious treatises on -wisdom, informs us that a little bread and a few figs were all that his -virtue required.<a name="anc_xxix_47" id="anc_xxix_47"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_47"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_47]</span></a></p> - -<p>The senators, the knights, and the luxurious freed-men, spared no -expense either for dinner or supper. The priests of Mars, of whom we -have already spoken, set them an example too seductive for them not to -follow it.<a name="anc_xxix_48" id="anc_xxix_48"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_48"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_48]</span></a> It is to be remarked, by the way, that those worthy -ministers of the god of war took this repast in the most secret part of -their temple, where they hardly allowed any one to come and interrupt -them. This gastronomic quietude was also very much the taste of a -celebrated modern sailor, the Bailiff de Suffrein. He was at dinner in -Achem, India, when a deputation from the town was announced. Being a -witty glutton, he conceived the happy thought of sending word to the -importunate troop that an article of the Christian religion expressly -prohibited every Christian from occupying himself with anything besides -eating, that function being of the most serious importance. This reply -singularly edified the deputation, who retired with respect, admiring -the extreme devotion of the French general.<a name="anc_xxix_49" id="anc_xxix_49"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_49"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_49]</span></a></p> - -<p>The collation—<i>merenda</i>—was little in use. It took place about the end -of the day, before supper, particularly in summer, among the workmen and -farm labourers.<a name="anc_xxix_50" id="anc_xxix_50"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_50"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_50]</span></a></p> - -<p>We now come to the principal repast, to that which threw such brilliancy -over the latter centuries of Rome, when a culinary monomania, a sort of -gastronomic furor, seemed to have seized the sovereign people, who, no -longer great by their conquests, betrayed a desire to become so by the -number and audacity of their follies.</p> - -<p>The Hebrews supped at the ninth hour, that is to say, about three -o’clock in the afternoon.<a name="anc_xxix_51" id="anc_xxix_51"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_51"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_51]</span></a> Their custom of two repasts would be -sufficiently proved by the fact that, on fast days, they took food only -in the evening.<a name="anc_xxix_52" id="anc_xxix_52"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_52"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_52]</span></a> Hence, when they did not fast, they also eat at -another hour. Their ordinary aliment was very simple; we shall have to -speak of it hereafter.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_344" id="page_344"></a>{344}</span></p> - -<p>In the primitive times, kings prepared their own suppers.<a name="anc_xxix_53" id="anc_xxix_53"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_53"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_53]</span></a> Beef, -mutton, goat’s flesh—such were the viands which then satisfied the -daintiest palates.<a name="anc_xxix_54" id="anc_xxix_54"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_54"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_54]</span></a> Baskets, filled with pure wheaten bread, -were carried round to the guests,<a name="anc_xxix_55" id="anc_xxix_55"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_55"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_55]</span></a> and heaps of salt, placed on -the table, gave proof of the hospitality of those simple and -unsophisticated ages.<a name="anc_xxix_56" id="anc_xxix_56"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_56"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_56]</span></a></p> - -<p>The fierce warriors of that warlike period never forgot to invoke the -gods before they satisfied their appetites: libations of wine rendered -them favourable.<a name="anc_xxix_57" id="anc_xxix_57"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_57"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_57]</span></a> This pious duty once fulfilled, they gave -themselves up without restraint, to the joys of good cheer; and the -sounds of the lyre and the buffooneries of mountebanks enlivened the -banquet,<a name="anc_xxix_58" id="anc_xxix_58"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_58"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_58]</span></a> which again received fresh animation from the copious -healths, which persons the least versed in the forms of society never -forgot.<a name="anc_xxix_59" id="anc_xxix_59"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_59"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_59]</span></a></p> - -<p>It often happened that each one paid his share, or brought provisions -with him<a name="anc_xxix_60" id="anc_xxix_60"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_60"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_60]</span></a> to these joyous suppers, of which the last rays of the -setting sun always gave the periodical signal.<a name="anc_xxix_61" id="anc_xxix_61"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_61"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_61]</span></a> The uncertainty -of these amicable meetings constituted their charm. Pic-nics, as we see, -may be traced rather far back.</p> - -<p>It was then that pleasure presided at those repasts; dulness had its -turn when luxury proscribed the supper in open air, and in -common,<a name="anc_xxix_62" id="anc_xxix_62"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_62"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_62]</span></a> after the manner of the Jews, who assembled in gardens, -or under trees,<a name="anc_xxix_63" id="anc_xxix_63"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_63"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_63]</span></a> and mingled the sweet harmony of music with the -less delicate seductions of their banquets.<a name="anc_xxix_64" id="anc_xxix_64"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_64"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_64]</span></a></p> - -<p>The breakfast has always taken place after rising; dinner in the middle -of the day; the collation in the course of the afternoon; and the supper -in the evening. In the 14th century, people dined at ten o’clock in the -morning.<a name="anc_xxix_65" id="anc_xxix_65"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_65"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_65]</span></a> One or two centuries later, they dined at eleven -o’clock. In the 16th century, and at the commencement of the 17th, they -dined at mid-day in the best houses. Louis XIV., himself, always sat -down to table at that hour.<a name="anc_xxix_66" id="anc_xxix_66"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_66"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_66]</span></a> This order was not modified until -the 18th century.</p> - -<p>The Sicilian cooks taught unheard-of refinements, and were sought after -with strange eagerness.<a name="anc_xxix_67" id="anc_xxix_67"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_67"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_67]</span></a> The chine of beef and haunch of mutton -of the Homeric epoch, gave way to sumptuous banquets, and a learned -prodigality divided them into two or three acts, or courses,<a name="anc_xxix_68" id="anc_xxix_68"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_68"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_68]</span></a> -the order and luxurious majesty of which have been adopted in modern -times.</p> - -<p>It appears that three or four o’clock in the afternoon—the ninth -hour—was the time invariably fixed for the supper of the -Romans.<a name="anc_xxix_69" id="anc_xxix_69"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_69"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_69]</span></a> Like the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_345" id="page_345"></a>{345}</span> Greeks of yore, they contented themselves at -first with simple aliments, and few in number; subsequently, three -courses, sometimes seven,<a name="anc_xxix_70" id="anc_xxix_70"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_70"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_70]</span></a> or even many more, appeared to them -to be hardly sufficient to satisfy the ardent voracity of their eyes, -and glut stomachs which odious precautions assimilated to the buckets of -Danaus’s daughters.</p> - -<p>These suppers, the details of which always appear to us as bearing the -impress of exaggeration, notwithstanding the authority of the writers -who furnish them, were insufficient for certain prodigies of -extravagance and furious gluttony, who were served at midnight with a -sort of “wake” (<i>comissatio</i>),<a name="anc_xxix_71" id="anc_xxix_71"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_71"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_71]</span></a> at which some of them gave proof -of renewed greed and vigour.</p> - -<p>Vitellius was renowned for this kind of nocturnal debauchery;<a name="anc_xxix_72" id="anc_xxix_72"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_72"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_72]</span></a> -others shone in the second rank, but no one equalled that monarch-cook, -who made the empire a market, and his shameful reign an unceasing -banquet.</p> - -<p>Sensual enjoyments, and every variety of barbarity that follows in their -train, were carried to the highest pitch. There was something vast and -monstrous, of which nothing can give us an idea, in the eclipse of mind, -and the depravity of their hearts. All that force of intelligence and -will which, under the influence of Christian spiritualism, has revealed -itself in modern times by so many chivalric inspirations, so many moral -institutions, so many scientific discoveries, so many industrial works, -then ingulfed in the senses, was taxed solely for their gratification. -The sensual organization of man had acquired a development apparently as -vast as that of intelligence, because intelligence had become the -handmaid of the senses: hence those colossal proportions in the tastes, -the banquets, the pleasures of the ancients, when compared with ours, -which make us regard them as an extinct race of giants, if we consider -them in a sensual point of view; and as a race of pygmies, if we measure -them by that power of ideas—that metaphysical and moral elevation—to -which we have attained, and which would make a child of our days the -catechist of all the philosophers of antiquity.<a name="anc_xxix_73" id="anc_xxix_73"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_73"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_73]</span></a></p> - -<p>Down to the time of the conquest of the north of Europe by the Romans, -the food was very simple. Chopped herbs boiled in cauldrons, served in -wooden bowls on the hide of an ox, spread on the ground, in the midst of -the forest; balls composed of different kinds of flour, and some strips -of meat grilled on the embers—such was the food of our -forefathers.<a name="anc_xxix_74" id="anc_xxix_74"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_74"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_74]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_346" id="page_346"></a>{346}</span></p> - -<p>The table at which the Anglo-Saxons took their repasts, was covered with -a very clean cloth. Each one received a horn cup, which contained some -kind of pottage, or ale—the beverage for which they had a -predilection.<a name="anc_xxix_75" id="anc_xxix_75"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_75"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_75]</span></a> The plates with which Strutt has enriched his -work give a satisfactory idea of the culinary intelligence of the -nation. They had spits, knives, plates, and dishes in abundance. England -was marching with giant strides towards civilization.<a name="anc_xxix_76" id="anc_xxix_76"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_76"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_76]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Anglo-Saxons were particularly fond of boiled meat. They cut up the -animal they intended to cook, put the pieces into a cauldron, supported -by a tripod, and then lighted a fire on the ground. They stirred their -<i>ragoût</i> incessantly with a long two-pronged fork, which also served -them to take out the meat when it was done.<a name="anc_xxix_77" id="anc_xxix_77"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_77"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_77]</span></a></p> - -<p>All the deplorable excesses of the Romans ought not to divert us from -the fact, that religion and sound policy seem to have consecrated -repasts in common, as one of the means best calculated to unite men more -closely in the bonds of concord and friendship.<a name="anc_xxix_78" id="anc_xxix_78"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_78"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_78]</span></a> The Scriptures -furnish us with the first examples. Among the Israelites, the banquets -which followed the sacrifices always took place in an assembly of -relations, neighbours, or friends.<a name="anc_xxix_79" id="anc_xxix_79"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_79"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_79]</span></a> They eat together and in -public on wedding days and solemn festivals.<a name="anc_xxix_80" id="anc_xxix_80"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_80"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_80]</span></a></p> - -<p>The first Christians promptly adopted this custom: their love -feasts—their <i>agapæ</i>—were served in the church, after the Communion. -The rich contributed to them abundantly; the poor according to their -means; and the indigent who presented themselves with nothing in their -hands, were received and treated as brethren.<a name="anc_xxix_81" id="anc_xxix_81"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_81"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_81]</span></a> Admirable -association of penury and opulence, which will never be replaced by the -crude Utopias of modern philanthropy!</p> - -<p>As an act of justice to Pagan legislators, we are compelled to say that -sometimes they had excellent views, which go far to extenuate many of -their aberrations. The laws of Minos prescribed to the Cretans the -annual levy of an impost, the half of which was to be consecrated to the -nourishment of the people. No one could eat alone; a certain number of -families met together to take their repasts in common.<a name="anc_xxix_82" id="anc_xxix_82"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_82"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_82]</span></a> At -Lacedæmon, each one brought his share of the provisions necessary for -the supper of the whole;<a name="anc_xxix_83" id="anc_xxix_83"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_83"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_83]</span></a> or he sent at the commencement of the -month to the steward of the common halls, wine, cheese, figs, a measure -of flour, and a small sum of money to defray other expenses.<a name="anc_xxix_84" id="anc_xxix_84"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_84"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_84]</span></a> -Friendship, sobriety, and concord presided, without exception, at these -meetings.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_347" id="page_347"></a>{347}</span></p> - -<p>Solon decreed that the Athenians should assemble at the Prytanea to eat -together—sometimes one, sometimes another—at the public expense. Each -was invited in his turn, and was expected to be there on the day -named.<a name="anc_xxix_85" id="anc_xxix_85"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_85"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_85]</span></a> The Prytanea of Athens, Megara, Olympia, and Cyzica, -contained a great number of porticoes, under which were the tables at -which the citizens sat.</p> - -<p>The founder of Rome also had the wisdom to ordain that, in certain -cases, the inhabitants of the same ward should take their repasts in -common, as a sign of peace and good feeling; nay, more: he decreed these -suppers to be a part of the religious worship, and they were called -“sacred banquets.”<a name="anc_xxix_86" id="anc_xxix_86"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_86"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_86]</span></a></p> - -<p>Man abuses every thing. The Romans, tired of eating merely to support -life, and disdaining, little by little, that austere sobriety which -rendered them the masters of the world, gave themselves up at last to -unbridled luxury, which appears to have redoubled during the war of -Italy, and the civil wars of Marius, 83 <small>B.C.</small> Cornelius Sylla assumed the -government, and one of the terrible dictator’s laws (<i>Lex Cornelia</i>) -renewed the ancient sumptuary regulations, and fixed the prices of -provisions.<a name="anc_xxix_87" id="anc_xxix_87"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_87"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_87]</span></a> Julius Cæsar also made great efforts to oppose the -redoubtable invasions of Roman gastronomy. That prince stationed guards -in the markets, with orders to seize whatever they found there in -contravention of the laws. If, through want of vigilance or fidelity, -they allowed anything to escape, it was sure to be confiscated by more -active agents, on the very tables, and in presence of the assembled -guests.<a name="anc_xxix_88" id="anc_xxix_88"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_88"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_88]</span></a> Resistance only increased the evil. Augustus thought to -render the laws more efficacious by modifying them. He permitted twelve -persons to meet in honour of the twelve great gods, and to spend eight -shillings in ordinary repasts; twelve shillings in the banquets of the -calends, the ides, and the nones; and even two pounds on wedding days -and the day following.<a name="anc_xxix_89" id="anc_xxix_89"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_89"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_89]</span></a></p> - -<p>Tiberius granted still more. Under his reign, a worthy citizen might -spend for supper the sum of four pounds, without having to fear that any -one would find fault with it.<a name="anc_xxix_90" id="anc_xxix_90"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_90"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_90]</span></a></p> - -<p>Caligula, Claudius, and Nero—doubtless better judges of liberty than -their predecessors—allowed every one the right to ruin himself as -joyously as he pleased. These good princes, so far from repressing the -luxury of the table, strove to fortify it with the authority of their -examples.<a name="anc_xxix_91" id="anc_xxix_91"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_91"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_91]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_348" id="page_348"></a>{348}</span></p> - -<p>Vitellius was by nature a non-reformer. That voracious Cæsar operated on -a large scale; he spent in four months, for his suppers, a little more -than five millions sterling.<a name="anc_xxix_92" id="anc_xxix_92"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_92"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_92]</span></a> A trifle for a Roman emperor! Did -not the riches and labour of Europe, Asia, and Africa, form his civil -list? It is quite true that out of this modest revenue he had to find -corn to stop the cravings of the proletarians, and provide the games of -the Circus, in order to amuse them in their dangerous idleness. But -Vitellius, who had no other passion than that of good cheer, was royally -equal to the task. And these things cause no surprise when we remember -that a Roman general, Lucullus, spent not less than £1,000 to offer a -little collation to two of his friends, who refused him the time he -required to treat them in a less unceremonious manner.</p> - -<p>We find in the history of “<i>Jack of Newbury</i>”<a name="anc_xxix_93" id="anc_xxix_93"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_93"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_93]</span></a> instructions -relative to the manner in which an English tradesman was to feed the -persons in his employment in the 16th century, which would certainly not -be very pleasing now to that useful and laborious class:—</p> - -<p>“You feed your folks with the best of beef and the finest of wheat, -which is an oversight; neither do I hear of any knight in this country -that doth it, and, to say the truth, how were they able to bear that -part which they do, if they saved it not by some means? Come thither, -and I warrant you that you shall see brown bread upon the board; if it -be of wheat and rye mingled together, it is a great matter, and bread -most highly commended, but most commonly they eat barley bread, or rye -mingled with peasen or such-like coarse grain, which is doubtless of -small price, and there is no other bread allowed except it be at their -own board; and in like manner for their meat, it is well known that -necks and points of beef is their ordinary fare; which, because it is -commonly lean, they seeth therewith now and then a piece of bacon or -pork, whereby they make their pottage fat, and therewith drive out the -rest with more content: and this you must do. And besides that, the -midriffs of oxen, and the cheeks, the sheep’s heads, and the gathers, -which you give away at your gate, might serve them well enough; this -would be a great spareing to your meat, and by this means you would save -much money in the year, whereby you might better maintain your French -hood and silk gown.”</p> - -<p>The following is the style of living at the court of the Dauphin of -France in the 14th century:—</p> - -<p>As in all well-regulated houses, there were five repasts, viz.: the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_349" id="page_349"></a>{349}</span> -morning (except on fast days), the breakfast; the repast of ten -o’clock,—(<i>dix heures</i>, or the <i>décimheure</i>; by abbreviation <i>décimer</i>, -and by a second abbreviation, <i>dîner</i>)—the dinner; the second dinner, -the supper (<i>souper</i>), at which they eat no more soup than we do; and -lastly, the night repast, which they called a collation.</p> - -<p>As an every-day fare, the Dauphin took for his dinner a rice pottage, -with leeks or cabbage, a piece of beef, another of salt pork, a dish of -six hens or twelve pullets, divided in two, a piece of roast pork, -cheese, and fruit; at supper, a piece of roast beef, a dish of brains, -neat’s feet, with vinegar, cheese and fruit. Other days, other dishes, -which were also pre-arranged with respect to kind and quantity. The -barons of the court had always the half of the quantity of the Dauphin; -the knights, the quarter; the equerries and chaplains, the eighth. The -distributions of wine and bread were made in the same proportions; such -a rank, such weight, such measure; so that the young and delicate -baroness had four pots of wine, while the chorister and the chaplain had -but one.<a name="anc_xxix_94" id="anc_xxix_94"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_94"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_94]</span></a></p> - -<p>We are indebted to the learned Monteil for the following details -relative to the public repasts of Louis XIV.:—<a name="anc_xxix_95" id="anc_xxix_95"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_95"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_95]</span></a></p> - -<p>The usher of the court, at the hour named, goes and knocks with his wand -at the door of the hall of the body-guard, and says: “Gentlemen, to the -king’s table!” a guard is dispatched, who follow him to the goblet, -where one of the officers for the service of the table takes the nave. -The guard accompany him, marching by his side, sword in hand.</p> - -<p>Having arrived at the dining-room, the officers spread the cloth, try -the napkins, the fork, the spoon, the knife, and the tooth-picks; that -is to say, they touch them with a morsel of bread, which they afterwards -eat.</p> - -<p>The usher returns again to the hall of the body-guard, knocks at the -door with his wand, and cries: “Gentlemen, the king’s meat!” Four guards -then follow him to the ambry, where the equerry of the household and the -chief steward, or major-domo, test the dishes, by dipping a piece of -bread, which they eat. After this, the king’s meat is carried, the -guards marching with their drawn swords on either side; the chief -steward, preceded by the usher, walking in front. When he arrives near -the table, he approaches the nave, and makes his obeisance to it; and if -the announcer, or any other person desire also to do it, he may. The -gentlemen-in-waiting place the dishes successively, and the table being -covered with them, the king then enters.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_350" id="page_350"></a>{350}</span></p> - -<p>It is to be remarked, that it is always a prince or a great personage -who presents the wet napkin to him with which to wash his hands, whereas -it is a simple valet who presents him with the dry napkin to wipe them.</p> - -<p>The king takes his seat.</p> - -<p>The equerry-carver carves the viands.</p> - -<p>The king serves himself on a plate of gold.</p> - -<p>When he asks for drink, the cup-bearer calls aloud: “Drink for the -king!” At the same time he makes his obeisance to him, goes to the -buffet, takes two crystal decanters, one of which is filled with wine, -and the other with water, returns to the king, makes another obeisance, -removes the cover of the glass, and presents it to the king, who pours -out wine and water according to his own pleasure.</p> - -<p>During the dinner or supper of the king, a group of lordly courtiers -stand behind his chair, and endeavour—though frequently in vain—to -divert him, and make him laugh; and another group, composed of ladies of -the court, stand behind the queen’s chair, who, on their part, try to -amuse her, and excite a smile.</p> - -<p>Whether the king eat in public or private, the table is always served in -the same manner:—</p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">AT DINNER.</td></tr> - -<tr><td colspan="2" align="center" class="sml">TWO LARGE TERRINES OF SOUP.<br /> -TWO MIDDLING-SIZED ONES.<br /> -TWO SMALL ONES AS SIDE DISHES.</td></tr> - -<tr><td align="center">FIRST COURSE.</td><td align="center">SECOND COURSE.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left" class="sml">TWO LARGE DISHES.</td><td align="left" class="sml">TWO LARGE DISHES OF ROAST.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left" class="sml">TWO MIDDLING-SIZED ONES.</td><td align="left" class="sml">TWO MORE, AS SIDE DISHES.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left" class="sml">SIX SMALL ONES, AS SIDE DISHES.</td><td align="left"> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">AT SUPPER.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><i>The same number of dishes, only there is but three-fourths of the quantity of soup.</i></td></tr> -</table> - -<p>The king eats only with the royal family and princes of the blood.</p> - -<p>Sometimes, however, the Pope’s nuncio has the honour of sitting at his -table, but always at the distance of four places.<a name="anc_xxix_96" id="anc_xxix_96"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_96"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_96]</span></a></p> - -<p>The luxury of the table was carried so far under Edward III. of England, -that that prince was constrained, in the 17th year of his reign, to -impose sumptuary laws on his subjects, forbidding the common people the -indulgence of costly food and fine wines.<a name="anc_xxix_97" id="anc_xxix_97"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_97"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_97]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_351" id="page_351"></a>{351}</span></p> - -<p>The necessity for this measure is demonstrated by the fact, of which we -read in the chronicles of Stow,<a name="anc_xxix_98" id="anc_xxix_98"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_98"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_98]</span></a> that, “at the marriage of -Lionel, Duke of Clarence, the third son of Edward III., with Violentis, -the daughter of Galeasius II., Duke of Milan, there was a rich feast, in -which above <i>thirty</i> courses were served at the table, and the fragments -that remained were more than sufficient to have served a thousand -people.”</p> - -<p>The same chronicler also informs us that King Richard II. held the -Christmas feasts in the great hall of Westminster in 1399, “and such -numbers came, that every day there were slain twenty-six or twenty-eight -oxen and three hundred sheep, besides fowls without number.”<a name="anc_xxix_99" id="anc_xxix_99"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_99"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_99]</span></a></p> - -<p>Richard Nevil, Earl of Warwick, kept so good a table, that his guests -often eat six fat oxen for their breakfast.<a name="anc_xxix_100" id="anc_xxix_100"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_100"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_100]</span></a> “In number of -dishes and change of meate,” says Holinshed,<a name="anc_xxix_101" id="anc_xxix_101"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_101"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_101]</span></a> “the nobilitie of -Englande do most exceede, sith there is no daye in maner that passeth -over their heades, wherein they have not onely beefe, mutton, veale, -lambe, kidde, pork, conie, capon, pigge, or so many of these as the -season yieldeth, but also some portion of the redde or fallow deere, -beside great varietie of fishe and wilde fowle, and thereto sundrie -other delicates, wherein the sweet hand of the portingale is not -wanting.”</p> - -<p>So early as the 16th century the inhabitants of the City of London were -remarkable for the astonishing profusion of their repasts, if we are to -believe the poet Massinger—</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">“Men may talk of country Christmas, and court gluttony,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Their thirty pounds for buttered eggs, their pies of carps’ tongues,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Their pheasants drenched with ambergrise; the carcases<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Of three fat wethers bruised for gravy, to<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Make sauce for a single peacock:—yet their feasts<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Were fasts, compared with the City’s.”<a name="anc_xxix_102" id="anc_xxix_102"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_102"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_102]</span></a><br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>The description of one dish will enable us to judge of the others—</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">“Three sucking pigs, served up in a dish,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Took from the sow as soon as she had farrowed,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">A fortnight fed with dates and muskadine,<a name="anc_z" id="anc_z"></a><a href="#footnote_z"><span class="fnanchor">[Z]</span></a><br /></span> -<span class="i1">That stood my master in twenty marks a piece;<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Besides the puddings in their bellies, made<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Of I know not what.”<a name="anc_xxix_103" id="anc_xxix_103"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_103"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_103]</span></a><br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_352" id="page_352"></a>{352}</span>Hang thyself, voluptuous Apicius! thou hast never dreamed of such -delicate fare!</p> - -<p>In the comedy of the “<i>Parson’s Wedding</i>,”<a name="anc_xxix_104" id="anc_xxix_104"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_104"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_104]</span></a> the captain orders -for his supper “chines fry’d and the salmon calver’d, a carp and black -sauce, red deer in the blood, and an assembly of woodcocks and -jacksnipes, so fat you would think they had their winding-sheets on; and -upon these, as their pages, let me have wait your Sussex wheatear, with -a feather in his cap; over all which let our countryman, general chine -of beef, command. I hate your French pottage, that looks as if the -cook-maid had more hand in it than the cook.”</p> - -<p>The luxurious munificence of Norman kings is almost as remarkable as -that of the emperors of degenerate Rome.</p> - -<p>William the Conqueror had himself crowned three times in the same year, -and the banquets he gave on those occasions were such that they -impoverished the kingdom.<a name="anc_xxix_105" id="anc_xxix_105"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_105"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_105]</span></a></p> - -<p>At the dinner given on the marriage of Richard, Earl of Cornwall, and -brother of Henry III., with the daughter of Raymond, Earl of Provence, -more than <i>thirty thousand</i> dishes were served on the table of the bride -and bridegroom.<a name="anc_xxix_106" id="anc_xxix_106"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_106"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_106]</span></a></p> - -<p>In the year 1252, “John Mansel, the king’s counsellor, gave a stately -dinner to the kings of England and Scotland and their queens; there was -also present Edward, the king’s son, the Bishop of London, and many -earls, barons, knights, and citizens; in short, so large was his -company, that his house at Totehill could not contain them; therefore he -set up tents and pavilions for their reception; <i>seven hundred</i> messes -of meat was not sufficient to serve them for the first -course.”<a name="anc_xxix_107" id="anc_xxix_107"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_107"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_107]</span></a></p> - -<p>The following details, which we borrow from Monteil’s excellent -work,<a name="anc_xxix_108" id="anc_xxix_108"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_108"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_108]</span></a> give us some idea of the style of living in the mansions -of France during the 14th century:—</p> - -<p>“Whenever there is a dinner of ceremony, the clerks of the church are -requested to bring holy water. The repast is commenced and concluded -with fruit. The bread eaten is in loaves of nine ounces only. Every -bason of meat is surrounded with sage, lavender, or other aromatic -herbs; and on Sunday, or any holiday, negus is given. The sideboard, or -buffet, is always in the middle of the room, covered with jugs and large -drinking cups of gold and silver.</p> - -<p>“The cellars, store-rooms, kneading troughs, dairies, and fruit-stores, -are filled and emptied unceasingly—take who will, when he will, and as<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_353" id="page_353"></a>{353}</span> -much as he will. Provisions of every kind are heaped up with a profusion -that announces magnificence allied with riches.</p> - -<p>“The great number of nobles, knights, huntsmen, falconers, pages, -kitchen servants, butlers, bakers, the numerous valets, workmen, -gardeners, harbingers, door-keepers, porters, and guards are not equal -to the task of consuming so much. From all sides come relations, allies, -neighbours, friends, pilgrims, and travellers, all of whom remain or -depart at will, being feasted as if it were the morrow of a wedding, or -a patronal festivity.</p> - -<p>“The kitchen chimney-places are not less than twelve feet in width. One -man would not have strength sufficient to use the tongs or the shovels. -The andirons do not weigh less than a hundred pounds, the trivets forty -pounds; copper saucepans of thirty pounds are common, and so are spits -of eleven and twelve pounds. One roast is composed of one, two, or three -calves, two, three, or four sheep, besides game, venison, and poultry. -The boiling of the saucepans, the exhalations from the grease, render -the atmosphere so fat, so thick, that it is only necessary to breathe in -it to feed. A person would not dare enter one of those kitchens on the -eve of a feast day, for fear, as it were, of breaking his fast.</p> - -<p>“In the 16th century persons washed their hands at the commencement of a -repast, and a second time when it was concluded. When the master of the -house was particular on the point of civility, he had a bason sent round -at this second ablution, filled with perfumed water.<a name="anc_xxix_109" id="anc_xxix_109"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_109"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_109]</span></a></p> - -<p>“When the person seated in the chief place was a guest of distinction, -politeness made it indispensable to present him with water to rinse his -mouth.<a name="anc_xxix_110" id="anc_xxix_110"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_110"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_110]</span></a></p> - -<p>“One of the most difficult points of French civility in the 16th century -was to drink to a person’s health, or return the compliment in a proper -manner.<a name="anc_xxix_111" id="anc_xxix_111"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_111"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_111]</span></a> A guest at one end of the table held up his glass, and -called out: ‘Mr. Such-a-one, to your health!’ He replied: ‘I love it -from you!’<a name="anc_xxix_112" id="anc_xxix_112"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_112"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_112]</span></a> During the whole of the repast, healths were -bandied to and fro, in every sense. At the end they touched glasses -together at a central point, which created a very singular kind of -clash, and, at the same time, the arms underneath formed a sort of -fasces of sleeves and cuffs.”<a name="anc_xxix_113" id="anc_xxix_113"></a><a href="#footnote-xxix_113"><span class="fnanchor">[XXIX_113]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_354" id="page_354"></a>{354}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="XXX" id="XXX"></a>XXX.<br /><br /> -VARIETY OF REPASTS.</h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">The</span> fertile country inhabited by the Jewish people furnished them with a -very great variety of excellent provisions. Those of which they made the -greatest consumption, and which we find generally mentioned in the -Scriptures, are bread, flour, barley, beans, lentils, wine, raisins, -figs, honey, butter, oil, sheep, oxen, fatted calves, &c.<a name="anc_xxx_1" id="anc_xxx_1"></a><a href="#footnote-xxx_1"><span class="fnanchor">[XXX_1]</span></a></p> - -<p>The fat of animals offered in sacrifice was reserved for the -Lord;<a name="anc_xxx_2" id="anc_xxx_2"></a><a href="#footnote-xxx_2"><span class="fnanchor">[XXX_2]</span></a> but, with this exception, the Hebrews could freely make use -of it. They esteemed it much, and when they wished to speak of a rich -banquet, they called it “a banquet of fat animals.”<a name="anc_xxx_3" id="anc_xxx_3"></a><a href="#footnote-xxx_3"><span class="fnanchor">[XXX_3]</span></a> “He that -loveth wine and oil,”<a name="anc_r" id="anc_r"></a><a href="#footnote_r"><span class="fnanchor">[R]</span></a> says Solomon, “shall not be rich.”<a name="anc_xxx_4" id="anc_xxx_4"></a><a href="#footnote-xxx_4"><span class="fnanchor">[XXX_4]</span></a></p> - -<p>The extreme simplicity of the greater part of the Biblical repasts ought -not to induce us to suppose that the Jews were entire strangers to the -inspirations of good cheer. “Solomon’s provisions for one day were -thirty measures of fine flour, and three score measures of meal, ten fat -oxen, and twenty oxen out of the pastures, and an hundred sheep, besides -harts, and roebucks, and fallow-deer, and fatted fowl.”<a name="anc_xxx_5" id="anc_xxx_5"></a><a href="#footnote-xxx_5"><span class="fnanchor">[XXX_5]</span></a></p> - -<p>That primitive nation also knew different kinds of banquets, which, -conformably with their <i>naïve</i> manners, were associated with the -celebration of a religious solemnity, a sad or a joyful event, a family -festivity or mourning, a victory or a public calamity.<a name="anc_xxx_6" id="anc_xxx_6"></a><a href="#footnote-xxx_6"><span class="fnanchor">[XXX_6]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Greeks and Romans, skilful masters in the art of good living, were -early on the alert to assure the collection of all things necessary for -the support of life. “Take care,” said Aurelian to Flavius, “take care, -above all things, that the markets of Rome be well supplied: nothing<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_355" id="page_355"></a>{355}</span> -more gay or more peaceful than the people, when they are well -fed.”<a name="anc_xxx_7" id="anc_xxx_7"></a><a href="#footnote-xxx_7"><span class="fnanchor">[XXX_7]</span></a> This remark is much more profound than it at first appears.</p> - -<p>At Athens, special officers visited the markets, and only permitted each -citizen to purchase and keep in his own house the quantity of provisions -necessary for one year.<a name="anc_xxx_8" id="anc_xxx_8"></a><a href="#footnote-xxx_8"><span class="fnanchor">[XXX_8]</span></a></p> - -<p>The ediles of Rome performed nearly similar functions.<a name="anc_xxx_9" id="anc_xxx_9"></a><a href="#footnote-xxx_9"><span class="fnanchor">[XXX_9]</span></a> The -prefect of the town was invested with the power of making regulations -for the markets,<a name="anc_xxx_10" id="anc_xxx_10"></a><a href="#footnote-xxx_10"><span class="fnanchor">[XXX_10]</span></a> and the prefect of provisions had the -inspection of the sale of bread, meat, wine, fish, and all other kinds -of aliment required either for the table of the rich or poor -plebeian.<a name="anc_xxx_11" id="anc_xxx_11"></a><a href="#footnote-xxx_11"><span class="fnanchor">[XXX_11]</span></a></p> - -<p>During a long time, in Greece and Italy, the only charm of repasts was, -that they furnished an opportunity for the exercise of those duties of -kind hospitality, which Apollodorus has described in the following -ingenuous style: “As soon as a friend,” says he, “steps on the threshold -of his host, the porter receives him with a smiling face; the dog of the -house comes immediately to caress him, amicably wagging his tail; then -some one runs and presents him a seat without being told.”<a name="anc_xxx_12" id="anc_xxx_12"></a><a href="#footnote-xxx_12"><span class="fnanchor">[XXX_12]</span></a> This -last trait is charming.</p> - -<p>But afterwards, they thought much more of honouring the god of good -cheer than Jupiter Hospes, and joyous Comus became everywhere the -fashionable divinity. One of the ancients describes him in the following -manner: “He is seen at the door of an apartment communicating with the -banqueting hall; his smiling face is fresh, plump, and ruddy; his head -is crowned with roses, and he sleeps standing; his left hand rests on a -thyrsus, but sleep makes him loose his hold; he staggers, and the torch -will soon fall from his grasp.”<a name="anc_xxx_13" id="anc_xxx_13"></a><a href="#footnote-xxx_13"><span class="fnanchor">[XXX_13]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Greeks were fervent in their worship of this god, at an epoch when -Rome still prided herself on her transcendant sobriety. Conon gave a -banquet to all the Athenians after the battle of Cnidos, about four -centuries before the Christian era; and his celebrated contemporary, the -handsome Alcibiades, conqueror in the Olympic games, magnificently -regaled the numerous spectators who had just applauded his -triumph.<a name="anc_xxx_14" id="anc_xxx_14"></a><a href="#footnote-xxx_14"><span class="fnanchor">[XXX_14]</span></a></p> - -<p>The pagan temples themselves often rung with the sound of the music, the -chaunts, and the dances which always accompanied the religious banquets. -These feasts in honour of the immortals must have been rather unedifying -to the truly faithful, for gaiety generally degenerated into extreme -licentiousness.<a name="anc_xxx_15" id="anc_xxx_15"></a><a href="#footnote-xxx_15"><span class="fnanchor">[XXX_15]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_356" id="page_356"></a>{356}</span></p> - -<p>The conquest of Asia was fatal to the Romans. Their savage rudeness -yielded to the effeminate manners of the vanquished; and henceforth, the -epicureans of Italy studied but one thing—gastronomic delectation; had -but one worship—that of the goddess Victua,<a name="anc_xxx_16" id="anc_xxx_16"></a><a href="#footnote-xxx_16"><span class="fnanchor">[XXX_16]</span></a> protectress of -food, and sovereign of the table.</p> - -<p>Luxury made appalling progress. Nearly a century <small>B.C.</small>, the Romans did -not blush to give 50 denarii (£1 16<i>s.</i>) for a young fatted peacock; 3 -denarii at least (more than 2<i>s.</i>) for a thrush;<a name="anc_xxx_17" id="anc_xxx_17"></a><a href="#footnote-xxx_17"><span class="fnanchor">[XXX_17]</span></a> and, a century -later, 4,000 sesterces (£36) were given for a couple of fine young -pigeons.<a name="anc_xxx_18" id="anc_xxx_18"></a><a href="#footnote-xxx_18"><span class="fnanchor">[XXX_18]</span></a></p> - -<p>Worse followed!</p> - -<p>Seneca describes in few words the luxury of the table among the -voluptuous Romans:—“Behold,” says he, “Nomentanus and Apicius, those -happy conquerors of all that is delectable on earth or in the sea. -Behold them at table, stretched on their couches, and contemplating -innumerable viands. Harmonious songs flatter their ears, a variety of -pleasing objects occupy their eyes, and the most exquisite savours -captivate their insatiable palates.”<a name="anc_xxx_19" id="anc_xxx_19"></a><a href="#footnote-xxx_19"><span class="fnanchor">[XXX_19]</span></a></p> - -<p>The genius of gluttony multiplied the banquets by prescribing luxurious -gastronomic assemblages, sometimes in honour of the gods, and often for -the gratification of simple mortals themselves.</p> - -<p>Each year, at the ides of November, a repast was offered to Jupiter in -the Capitol (<i>cœna Capitolina</i>). The statue of the god was present at -the banquet, reclining on a magnificent couch, with Juno and Minerva -seated on either side. These divinities were splendidly served, and, as -they touched nothing, in the middle of the night the seven epulary -priests joyously eat the supper of the three immortals.<a name="anc_xxx_20" id="anc_xxx_20"></a><a href="#footnote-xxx_20"><span class="fnanchor">[XXX_20]</span></a></p> - -<p>The cereal banquet (<i>cœna Cerealis</i>) was equally splendid, and Ceres -maintained the same frugality.<a name="anc_xxx_21" id="anc_xxx_21"></a><a href="#footnote-xxx_21"><span class="fnanchor">[XXX_21]</span></a></p> - -<p>A sterile reminiscence of the equality which reigned among men in the -golden age, placed the slaves at table by the side of their masters, -during the celebration of the Saturnalia (<i>cœna Saturnalis</i>).<a name="anc_xxx_22" id="anc_xxx_22"></a><a href="#footnote-xxx_22"><span class="fnanchor">[XXX_22]</span></a> -This usage was common to the Greeks and Romans.<a name="anc_xxx_23" id="anc_xxx_23"></a><a href="#footnote-xxx_23"><span class="fnanchor">[XXX_23]</span></a></p> - -<p>The ninth day of the August calends, and the thirteenth day of the -November calends, a gastronomic solemnity—a monstrous gala—brought -together the Roman pontiffs to celebrate the day of their inauguration -(<i>cœna pontificalis</i>). This banquet was worthy of the proverbial -delicacy of those sacred stomachs.<a name="anc_xxx_24" id="anc_xxx_24"></a><a href="#footnote-xxx_24"><span class="fnanchor">[XXX_24]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_357" id="page_357"></a>{357}</span></p> - -<p>The augurs treated themselves magnificently in their turn (<i>cœna -auguralis</i>), when they entered on their functions. The pagan priests of -Rome vied one with another in a noble emulation of exquisite refinement -and ruinous viands;<a name="anc_xxx_25" id="anc_xxx_25"></a><a href="#footnote-xxx_25"><span class="fnanchor">[XXX_25]</span></a> but it is said that the ministers of Mars, -who had the reputation of being arch-epicureans (<i>cœna saliaris</i>), -always won the palm in this struggle of magnificence and -voluptuousness.<a name="anc_xxx_26" id="anc_xxx_26"></a><a href="#footnote-xxx_26"><span class="fnanchor">[XXX_26]</span></a></p> - -<p>The day the Emperor took the title of Augustus, he gave a supper -(<i>cœna imperatoria</i>) to the senators and magistrates. The tributes of -a year were sometimes hardly sufficient to indemnify the grand master of -these imperial orgies.<a name="anc_xxx_27" id="anc_xxx_27"></a><a href="#footnote-xxx_27"><span class="fnanchor">[XXX_27]</span></a></p> - -<p>The triumphal banquets (<i>cœna triumphalis</i>) were less elegant, no -doubt, but they cost the victor who invited the people immense -sums.<a name="anc_xxx_28" id="anc_xxx_28"></a><a href="#footnote-xxx_28"><span class="fnanchor">[XXX_28]</span></a> The guests crowded into the vast inclosure of the temple -of Jupiter Capitolinus,<a name="anc_xxx_29" id="anc_xxx_29"></a><a href="#footnote-xxx_29"><span class="fnanchor">[XXX_29]</span></a> or the temple of Hercules.<a name="anc_xxx_30" id="anc_xxx_30"></a><a href="#footnote-xxx_30"><span class="fnanchor">[XXX_30]</span></a></p> - -<p>They sat down to table to celebrate the anniversary of a birth-day -(<i>cœna natalitia</i>),<a name="anc_xxx_31" id="anc_xxx_31"></a><a href="#footnote-xxx_31"><span class="fnanchor">[XXX_31]</span></a> the happy wedding-day (<i>cœna -nuptialis</i>),<a name="anc_xxx_32" id="anc_xxx_32"></a><a href="#footnote-xxx_32"><span class="fnanchor">[XXX_32]</span></a> the arrival of a friend (<i>cœna -adventitia</i>),<a name="anc_xxx_33" id="anc_xxx_33"></a><a href="#footnote-xxx_33"><span class="fnanchor">[XXX_33]</span></a> the sad day of his departure (<i>cœna -viatica</i>).<a name="anc_xxx_34" id="anc_xxx_34"></a><a href="#footnote-xxx_34"><span class="fnanchor">[XXX_34]</span></a> The melancholy ceremony of interment was followed by -a supper (<i>cœna funebris</i>), at which the guests were the relations -and friends of the deceased.<a name="anc_xxx_35" id="anc_xxx_35"></a><a href="#footnote-xxx_35"><span class="fnanchor">[XXX_35]</span></a> They drank to his manes, and, by -degrees, the wine not only stifled their laments but called forth joyous -smiles. The Romans have bequeathed to certain modern nations more than -the remembrance of their funeral repasts.</p> - -<p>In the palmy days of Athens, the Greeks evinced more of the epicurean -than the glutton—a fact which may be inferred from the description of -the supper of Dinias.<a name="anc_xxx_36" id="anc_xxx_36"></a><a href="#footnote-xxx_36"><span class="fnanchor">[XXX_36]</span></a> The most magnificent of their repasts was, -perhaps, that which Alexander the Great had served to ten thousand -guests, who received, each one, a present of a golden patera.<a name="anc_xxx_37" id="anc_xxx_37"></a><a href="#footnote-xxx_37"><span class="fnanchor">[XXX_37]</span></a></p> - -<p>In Greece, as in Rome, the greater part of the events of life occasioned -the joyous meeting of relations and friends. At the birth of a -child,<a name="anc_xxx_38" id="anc_xxx_38"></a><a href="#footnote-xxx_38"><span class="fnanchor">[XXX_38]</span></a> a banquet was given in his honour; he was named on the -tenth day, and the ceremony terminated with a banquet,<a name="anc_xxx_39" id="anc_xxx_39"></a><a href="#footnote-xxx_39"><span class="fnanchor">[XXX_39]</span></a> in which -they offered the guests cooked Cherso cheese, cabbage boiled in oil, -pigeons, thrushes, fish, and brimming cups of excellent wine.<a name="anc_xxx_40" id="anc_xxx_40"></a><a href="#footnote-xxx_40"><span class="fnanchor">[XXX_40]</span></a> -The teething repast took place when the child had attained his seventh -month, and the weaning supper when he began to eat.<a name="anc_xxx_41" id="anc_xxx_41"></a><a href="#footnote-xxx_41"><span class="fnanchor">[XXX_41]</span></a></p> - -<p>These family feasts, more or less sumptuous according to the fortune and -rank of the individuals who gave them, were generally signalized by<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_358" id="page_358"></a>{358}</span> a -custom which ridiculous and egotistical vanity could alone authorise and -maintain. On the banquet day care was taken to throw the feathers of the -poultry before the door of the house, in order to excite the fruitless -greed of the poor wretches, who, as they passed,<a name="anc_xxx_42" id="anc_xxx_42"></a><a href="#footnote-xxx_42"><span class="fnanchor">[XXX_42]</span></a> prayed heartily -that the infernal divinities might take the proud amphitryon, his -guests, and even the meanest of his servants.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p>In France, about 1350, the setier (about twelve English bushels) -of—<a name="anc_xxx_43" id="anc_xxx_43"></a><a href="#footnote-xxx_43"><span class="fnanchor">[XXX_43]</span></a></p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="1" summary=""> -<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">£</td><td align="left"><i>s.</i></td><td align="left"><i>d.</i></td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Wheat was worth</td><td align="left">0 </td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">7</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Rye</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">3</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Oats</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">2½</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Beans</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">5</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Peas</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">6</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">A Hogshead of Wine</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">4</td><td align="left">7</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">A Load of Hay</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">1</td><td align="left">10</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">An Ox</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">6</td><td align="left">10</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">A Horse</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">11</td><td align="left">6</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">A Calf</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">1</td><td align="left">2</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">A Sheep</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">4</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">A Fat Pig</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">2</td><td align="left">0</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">A Gosling</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">1</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">A Hen</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">0¾</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">100 Eggs</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">1½</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">1lb of Butter</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">3½</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">1lb of Honey</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">10½</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">1lb of Wax</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">1</td><td align="left">10</td></tr> -</table> - -<p>Prices of a few articles in France during the 15th century:<a name="anc_xxx_44" id="anc_xxx_44"></a><a href="#footnote-xxx_44"><span class="fnanchor">[XXX_44]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_359" id="page_359"></a>{359}</span></p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">£</td><td align="left"><i>s.</i></td><td align="left"><i>d.</i></td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">1lb of Bread</td><td align="left">0 </td><td align="left">0 </td><td align="left">0¼</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">1 Pint of Wine</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">0¼</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">1 Pint of Mustard</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">0¾</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">1 Bushel of Salt</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">2½</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">1lb of Pepper</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">2</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">1lb of Cinnamon</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">1</td><td align="left">2</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">1lb of Bacon</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">0¾</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">A Pair of Pigeons</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">1¼</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">A Pair of Partridges</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">2½</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">A Cart-load of Wood (<i>une voie</i>)</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">8</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">A Sack of Charcoal</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">1</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">1lb of Candles</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">0½</td></tr> -</table> - -<p>In England, under the reign of Edward III., a royal proclamation fixed -the price of the following articles:—<a name="anc_xxx_45" id="anc_xxx_45"></a><a href="#footnote-xxx_45"><span class="fnanchor">[XXX_45]</span></a></p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">£</td><td align="left"><i>s.</i></td><td align="left"><i>d.</i></td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">A Swan</td><td align="left">0 </td><td align="left">0 </td><td align="left">4</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">A Porcelle</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">8</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">An Ewe</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">6</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">A Capon</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">6</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">A Hen</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">4</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">A Pullet</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">2½</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">A Poucyn</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">2</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">A Coney</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">4</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">A Teal</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">2</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">A River Mallard</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">5</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">A Snipe</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">1</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">A Woodcock</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">3</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">A Partridge</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">5</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">A Plover</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">3</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">A Pheasant</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">1</td><td align="left">4</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Twelve Eggs</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">1</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Twelve Small Birds</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">1</td></tr> -</table> - -<p>The funeral repast of Sir John Redstone, Mayor of London, who died in -153l, occasioned the following expenses:—<a name="anc_xxx_46" id="anc_xxx_46"></a><a href="#footnote-xxx_46"><span class="fnanchor">[XXX_46]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_360" id="page_360"></a>{360}</span></p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">£</td><td align="left"><i>s.</i></td><td align="left"><i>d.</i></td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Shipe Brede</td><td align="left">0 </td><td align="left">7 </td><td align="left">5</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">7lbs of Sugar for the same</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">4</td><td align="left">1</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Two unces of Saffrun</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">2</td><td align="left">0</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Two unces of Clovys and Mace</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">1</td><td align="left">8</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Seven unces of Pepper</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">10½</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Sixty Eggs</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">7½</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Seven dysshes of Butter, at 4¼<i>d.</i> the gallone</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">3</td><td align="left">3¾</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Manchet Brede</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">1</td><td align="left">0</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">400 of Peers</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">2</td><td align="left">4</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">1lb of Bysketts</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">8</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">TO THE PYKE-MONGER.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Sixteen Pikes, at 1<i>s.</i> 4<i>d.</i> a piece</td><td align="left">1</td><td align="left">1</td><td align="left">4</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Eight roundes of Sturgeon</td><td align="left">1</td><td align="left">2</td><td align="left">0</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">TO THE PULTER.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Six roundes of Brawne</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">11</td><td align="left">8</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Ten Swannes, at 6<i>s.</i> a piece</td><td align="left">3</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">0</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Two dozen of Quayles</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">10</td><td align="left">0</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Three dozen of Rabetts</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">6</td><td align="left">6</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Twenty-two Capons</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">12</td><td align="left">10</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Nine dozen of Pygeons, at 10<i>d.</i> per dozen</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">7</td><td align="left">6</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Four Gese</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">2</td><td align="left">8</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">300 Eggs</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">3</td><td align="left">9</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">TO THE BOWCHER.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">A Surloyne of Beffe</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">2</td><td align="left">4</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Half a Vele (Calf)</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">2</td><td align="left">8</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Four Marybones</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">8</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">TO THE MYLKE-WYFFE.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Two Gallones and Six Dishes of Butter</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">4</td><td align="left">2</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Eight Gallones of Creme</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">4</td><td align="left">0</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Twelve Gallones of Curdde</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">1</td><td align="left">6</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">TO THE BREWER.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Three Barrelles of Ale</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">11</td><td align="left">0</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">A Kylderkyn of Bere</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">1</td><td align="left">0</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">For Double Bere to the Tabull</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">4</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Yest</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">4</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">TO THE VYNTENER.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_361" id="page_361"></a>{361}</span></td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Thirty two Gallones of Redde and Clarett Wyne, at 10<i>d.</i> per gallon</td><td align="left">1</td><td align="left">6</td><td align="left">8</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Three Gallones of Mackeray</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">4</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">A Rundlett of Muskadine</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">6</td><td align="left">0</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">1lb of Bread</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">0¼</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">THE GROCER.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Six unces of Pepper</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">9</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Four unces of Clovys and Mace</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">2</td><td align="left">4</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Two unces of Saffrone</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">1</td><td align="left">10</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">18lb of Pruenes</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">3</td><td align="left">0</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">8lb of Corans</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">1</td><td align="left">8</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">6lb of Dates</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">2</td><td align="left">0</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">11lb of Byskettes</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">10</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">12lb of Sugar</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">7</td><td align="left">0</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Five unces of Cynimion</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">1</td><td align="left">3</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Four unces of Gynger</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">6</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">THE BAKER.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Four busshelles of Chete, at 1<i>s.</i> 10<i>d.</i> the busshelle</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">7</td><td align="left">4</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">For Hot Brede</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">4</td><td align="left">0</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">For Fyne Flour</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">11</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">For Basterde Flour</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">1</td><td align="left">10</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">THE CHAUNDELER.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">A Peck and a-half of Salt</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">6</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">For Candelles</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">4</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">For Vennyger</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">4</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">For Vergeys</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">6</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">For Pack-threade and Mustarde</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">2</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">For Cappys (Capers)</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">2</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">For Lop of Pottes</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">8</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">For Hyer of Pottes</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">4</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">THE COOKE.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">For hys labor and companye for eighteen messes of meat</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">15</td><td align="left">0</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">For Yerbys</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">8</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">A Quarter of a Hundred of Fagottes</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">1</td><td align="left">2</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">For Coles</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">1</td><td align="left">6</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Paide the turners of broches and skulyons, four of them</td><td align="left">0</td><td align="left">1</td><td align="left">4</td></tr> -</table> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_362" id="page_362"></a>{362}</span></p> - -<p>The following is a correct copy of a monster bill of fare, from a paper -found in the Tower of London:—<a name="anc_s" id="anc_s"></a><a href="#footnote_s"><span class="fnanchor">[S]</span></a></p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr valign="top"><td>300 Quarters of Wheat.<br /> -300 Tuns of Ale.<br /> -104 Tuns of Wine.<br /> -One Pipe of Spiced Wine. <br /> -10 Fat Oxen.<br /> -6 Wild Bulls.<br /> -300 Pigs.<br /> -1004 Wethers.<br /> -300 Hogs.<br /> -3000 Calves.<br /> -300 Capons.<br /> -100 Peacocks.<br /> -200 Cranes.<br /> -200 Kids.<br /> -2000 Chickens.<br /> -4000 Pigeons.<br /> -4000 Rabbits.<br /> -4000 Ducks.<br /> -204 Bitterns.<br /> -400 Hernsies.</td> - -<td style="border-left:1px solid black;padding-left:1em;">200 Pheasants.<br /> -500 Partridges.<br /> -5000 Woodcocks.<br /> -400 Plovers.<br /> -100 Curlews.<br /> -100 Quails.<br /> -1000 Eggets.<br /> -200 Rees.<br /> -4000 Bucks, Does, and Roebucks.<br /> -155 Hot Venison Pasties.<br /> -4000 Cold Venison Pasties.<br /> -1000 Dishes of Jellies.<br /> -2000 Hot Custards.<br /> -4000 Cold Custards.<br /> -400 Tarts.<br /> -300 Pikes.<br /> -300 Breams.<br /> -8 Seals, and 4 Porpoises.</td></tr> -</table> - -<p>At the feast, the Earl of Warwick was steward; the Earl of Bedford, -treasurer; the Lord Hastings, comptroller, with many noble officers; -servitors, 1000; cooks, 62; kitcheners and scullions, 515.</p> - -<p>In France (14th and 15th centuries) the repasts were commonly divided -into five parts, called courses, or dishes.<a name="anc_xxx_47" id="anc_xxx_47"></a><a href="#footnote-xxx_47"><span class="fnanchor">[XXX_47]</span></a></p> - -<p>The first course was composed of cherries, tender fruits, citrons, and -salads.<a name="anc_xxx_48" id="anc_xxx_48"></a><a href="#footnote-xxx_48"><span class="fnanchor">[XXX_48]</span></a></p> - -<p>Milk-porridge, puddings, and pottages followed; it was the second -course.<a name="anc_xxx_49" id="anc_xxx_49"></a><a href="#footnote-xxx_49"><span class="fnanchor">[XXX_49]</span></a></p> - -<p>The third consisted of roast, with various sauces.<a name="anc_xxx_50" id="anc_xxx_50"></a><a href="#footnote-xxx_50"><span class="fnanchor">[XXX_50]</span></a></p> - -<p>The second roast, or fourth course,<a name="anc_xxx_51" id="anc_xxx_51"></a><a href="#footnote-xxx_51"><span class="fnanchor">[XXX_51]</span></a> presented the guests with -venison and game.</p> - -<p>The fifth course took the name of fruit-course. At this they served -tarts made with all sorts of herbs, flowers, grains, vegetables, and -fruit.<a name="anc_xxx_52" id="anc_xxx_52"></a><a href="#footnote-xxx_52"><span class="fnanchor">[XXX_52]</span></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="pl_XXV" id="pl_XXV"></a> -<a href="images/ill_pg_363_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_363_sml.jpg" width="466" height="300" alt="Image not available: Pl. 25." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">Pl. 25.</span> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_363" id="page_363"></a>{363}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="XXXI" id="XXXI"></a>XXXI.<br /><br /> -THE DINING-ROOM.</h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">The</span> <i>cœnaculum</i> (dining-room), properly so called, was the place in -the upper part of the house where they eat.<a name="anc_xxxi_1" id="anc_xxxi_1"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxi_1"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXI_1]</span></a> It was reached by a -staircase,<a name="anc_xxxi_2" id="anc_xxxi_2"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxi_2"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXI_2]</span></a> and thither persons repaired during the summer, -particularly in the country. The Roman villas terminated by a platform, -on which the Romans often collected at meal-time; the air was not so -hot, and the panorama of the neighbouring country-seats was presented -without obstruction, to the gaze of the guests.<a name="anc_xxxi_3" id="anc_xxxi_3"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxi_3"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXI_3]</span></a></p> - -<p>The dining-room was commonly decorated with fasces of arms and -trophies,<a name="anc_xxxi_4" id="anc_xxxi_4"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxi_4"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXI_4]</span></a> which served as a momento of the warlike virtues of -the ancestors of the master of the house. Enchanting frescoes stood out -marvellously from the obscure shading of the wall, round which were -twined fresh garlands of flowers; and a mosaic floor—master-piece of -art and patience—harmonised with the fascinating landscape of the -ceiling, the site of which varied with every course.<a name="anc_xxxi_5" id="anc_xxxi_5"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxi_5"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXI_5]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Emperor Nero, who carried this taste for the beautiful rather too -far, devised a sort of vault, in the most elegant style, and entirely -composed of movable leaves of ivory, which exhaled sweet</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="c">DESCRIPTION OF <a href="#pl_XXV">PLATE No. XXV.</a></p> - -<p>No. 1. Large vase, or <i>cratère</i>; a vessel which was placed in the -banqueting-room, and also on the empty space left on the tables. In -it was put wine and water, which was taken out with a <i>simpulum</i>, a -kind of small cup, fixed to a very long handle, bent at the -extremity as a hook, to fill the cups of the guests. When the -<i>cratères</i> were not fixed on tripods (<i>engytheca</i>, or <i>angotheca</i>), -which supported them, they only differed from the cups by their -size. Some were of such dimensions that Herodotus speaks of two -<i>cratères</i>, one containing 300 amphoræ, and the other 600; there -vases commonly exceeded ten-fold the size of the cups, to which -they were very similar in shape and handles.</p> - -<p>No. 2. A glass vase, with two handles, for iced water.</p> - -<p>No. 3. Glass bottle, with its cup, placed on the table for each -guest.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_364" id="page_364"></a>{364}</span></p></div> - -<p class="nind">perfumes, and whence flowers fell on the guests. In another of his -dining-rooms admiration was excited by a magnificent dome, the rotary -movement of which imitated, day and night, the course of the celestial -bodies.<a name="anc_xxxi_6" id="anc_xxxi_6"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxi_6"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXI_6]</span></a> These prodigies of ancient mechanism adorned the palace -that the prodigal Cæsar called “the gilded house.”<a name="anc_xxxi_7" id="anc_xxxi_7"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxi_7"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXI_7]</span></a> The colossal -statue of that prince rose in the middle of the hall: it was 120 feet -high!<a name="anc_xxxi_8" id="anc_xxxi_8"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxi_8"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXI_8]</span></a></p> - -<p>Studious people, or those who wished to appear so, covered some part of -the dining-room with books; for it was a custom introduced into Rome to -have recitations or readings during the repast.<a name="anc_xxxi_9" id="anc_xxxi_9"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxi_9"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXI_9]</span></a> Atticus had -always a reader;<a name="anc_xxxi_10" id="anc_xxxi_10"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxi_10"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXI_10]</span></a> and Juvenal promises the friend he invites to -supper that he shall hear some fragments from Virgil and Homer.<a name="anc_xxxi_11" id="anc_xxxi_11"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxi_11"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXI_11]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Greeks yielded willingly to this intellectual pastime at the -commencement of the banquet, whilst incense and other perfumes filled -the room with a light vapour.<a name="anc_xxxi_12" id="anc_xxxi_12"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxi_12"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXI_12]</span></a></p> - -<p>Opposite the entrance-door stood a buffet, sometimes of iron, but more -generally among the Greeks of sculptured wood, bronze, or silver, on -which were represented the heads of oxen or satyrs.<a name="anc_xxxi_13" id="anc_xxxi_13"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxi_13"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXI_13]</span></a> This piece -of furniture was placed under the protection of Mercury, and a curtain -commonly veiled the front of it. It served for the display of precious -plate—vases of silver, silver-gilt, and gold, enriched with magnificent -precious stones.<a name="anc_xxxi_14" id="anc_xxxi_14"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxi_14"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXI_14]</span></a></p> - -<p>The buffet of the Romans,—a sort of sideboard, of rare -workmanship,—was appropriated to the same use.<a name="anc_xxxi_15" id="anc_xxxi_15"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxi_15"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXI_15]</span></a> Sometimes a -single foot supported a white marble table, surrounded with a border of -<i>vert-antique</i>, and plates and dishes were arranged on two elegant -shelves placed above.<a name="anc_xxxi_16" id="anc_xxxi_16"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxi_16"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXI_16]</span></a> Again, the artist frequently conceived -the idea of giving a whimsical form to the buffet, which enhanced its -price—it was a ship laden with the vases necessary for the banquet; -four enormous amphoræ occupied the deck, on the two sides of the mast; -towards the prow was a candelabrum, and at the stern was displayed a -large-bellied cantharus, or vase, with mobile handles;<a name="anc_xxxi_17" id="anc_xxxi_17"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxi_17"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXI_17]</span></a> the -main-topmast</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="c">DESCRIPTION OF <a href="#pl_XXVI">PLATE No. XXVI.</a></p> - -<p>No. 1. A glass vase, with two handles.</p> - -<p>No. 2. A glass vase, with three handles.</p> - -<p>No. 3. Etruscan vase, with three handles, terra cotta.</p> - -<p>No. 4. A large silver vase, to hold wine and water; when placed on -the table, the liquor was taken out with simpulum, to fill the -drinking cups.</p> - -<p>No. 5. A large-bellied cantharus—“<i>Herculaneum</i>.”</p></div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="pl_XXVI" id="pl_XXVI"></a> -<a href="images/ill_pg_364_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_364_sml.jpg" width="290" height="441" alt="Image not available: Pl. 26." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">Pl. 26.</span> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_pg_365_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_365_sml.jpg" width="286" height="448" alt="Image not available: " /></a> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="pl_XXVI-a" id="pl_XXVI-a"></a> -<a href="images/ill_pg_367_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_367_sml.jpg" width="291" height="398" alt="Image not available: Pl. 26A." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">Pl. 26A.</span> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_365" id="page_365"></a>{365}</span></p> - -<p class="nind">was replaced by a large urn, and two cups of Bacchus were gracefully -balanced at either extremity of the yard,<a name="anc_xxxi_18" id="anc_xxxi_18"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxi_18"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXI_18]</span></a> along which were -suspended craters, or vases, used in drinking wine.<a name="anc_xxxi_19" id="anc_xxxi_19"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxi_19"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXI_19]</span></a></p> - -<p>The buffet of the Greeks and Romans survived the ruins of those two -celebrated nations; we find it again in the middle ages, and even in -more modern times. Then also, rich people loved to display their plate -on a very apparent piece of furniture, which, being dressed, took the -name of “dresser.” Monstrelet, describing the magnificence of the Duke -of Burgundy during his sojourn in Paris, relates: “that in the room of -his mansion in which he eat was a square dresser (<i>dressoir</i>) with -shelves, which dresser was covered and loaded with very rich gold and -silver plate.”<a name="anc_xxxi_20" id="anc_xxxi_20"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxi_20"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXI_20]</span></a></p> - -<p>Sovereigns who affected great munificence had buffets of metal; there -were three—one for silver, one for silver-gilt, and one for gold. At -the banquet which the King of France, Charles V., gave to the Emperor -Charles IV., his uncle, each of the three buffets was of the same metal -as the plate it supported.<a name="anc_xxxi_21" id="anc_xxxi_21"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxi_21"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXI_21]</span></a></p> - -<p>After the birth of a child, ladies, when they received visits, had a -dresser placed in their room. Those of countesses and great ladies had -three shelves; those of the wives of the younger sons of baronets had -two; women well-connected but not titled could have no shelf. Those who -enjoyed the honours of the court placed by the side of the buffet a -little table, covered with a white cloth, destined for the hippocrass -and spiced wine they offered their visitors,<a name="anc_xxxi_22" id="anc_xxxi_22"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxi_22"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXI_22]</span></a> and which they -drank in hanaps, or a kind of chalice of earthenware, gold, or silver. -Those of crystal were much esteemed. Charles the Bald gave to the Abbey -of St. Denis a hanap, said to have belonged to Solomon. “It was of pure -gold, fine emeralds, fine garnets, and the work so marvellous that in -all the kingdoms of the world never was there anything so -perfect.”<a name="anc_xxxi_23" id="anc_xxxi_23"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxi_23"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXI_23]</span></a></p> - -<p>The great lords also indulged in metal dressers,<a name="anc_xxxi_24" id="anc_xxxi_24"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxi_24"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXI_24]</span></a> to which the -16th century gave the name of “buffets.” Under Henry II. of France the -court called them <i>crédence</i>, from an Italian word bearing the same -meaning,<a name="anc_xxxi_25" id="anc_xxxi_25"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxi_25"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXI_25]</span></a> and which they have retained.</p> - -<p>The Hebrews probably knew nothing of chimneys. When King Jehoiakim -burned the book which Jeremiah had written, “he sat in the winter-house -in the ninth month: and there was a fire on the hearth burning before -him.”<a name="anc_xxxi_26" id="anc_xxxi_26"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxi_26"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXI_26]</span></a></p> - -<p>When, among the Greeks or Romans, they wanted to warm the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_366" id="page_366"></a>{366}</span> dining-room, -they also had recourse to braziers or bronze furnaces of the dimension -of a middling-sized table, resting on lion’s claws. Foliage in copper, -bronze, and silver, was artistically incrusted round the edge. The -bottom was a very thick iron grating. Above and beneath, brick-work -prevented the coal from touching the upper part, or escaping through the -interstices.<a name="anc_xxxi_27" id="anc_xxxi_27"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxi_27"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXI_27]</span></a></p> - -<p>They also made use of two kinds of stoves to warm the dining-room—the -one was concealed under ground in the massive wall, and little pipes -extended from its orifice to the apartment; the other, portative and -light, disappeared whenever it was judged expedient.<a name="anc_xxxi_28" id="anc_xxxi_28"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxi_28"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXI_28]</span></a></p> - -<p>Among the pagans, the dining-room was lighted by torches made of a -resinous wood,<a name="anc_xxxi_29" id="anc_xxxi_29"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxi_29"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXI_29]</span></a> or tallow candles.<a name="anc_xxxi_30" id="anc_xxxi_30"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxi_30"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXI_30]</span></a> The rich had lamps, -candelabra,<a name="anc_xxxi_31" id="anc_xxxi_31"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxi_31"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXI_31]</span></a> or magnificent lustres suspended from the -ceiling.<a name="anc_xxxi_32" id="anc_xxxi_32"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxi_32"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXI_32]</span></a> They even knew the luxury of wax candles.<a name="anc_xxxi_33" id="anc_xxxi_33"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxi_33"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXI_33]</span></a></p> - -<p>In the middle ages, the sovereigns and the great lords had, in the -middle of their dining-rooms, fountains playing, which poured fourth -wine, hippocrass, and other liquors. Some gave rose-water and divers -odoriferous liquids to perfume the banqueting-hall.</p> - -<p>Rubruquis found in Tartary a Parisian goldsmith, Guillaume Boucher, who -had settled under the sway of the Khan, and had made him one of those -fountains.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="c">DESCRIPTION OF PLATE No. XXVI <span class="smcap">B</span>.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">The Duke of Brunswick’s Vase.</span>—This is one of the finest monuments -we have yet seen, which has reference to the mysteries and -sacrifices of Ceres and Bacchus. It is a precious vase, made of one -single piece of onyx, from the cabinet of the Duke of Brunswick, -and of the size represented in the engraving. It was published, and -learnedly explained, in 1682, by Jean Henry Eggeling, and printed -in the same year. This vase is of a singular form; has one handle, -and on the other side a spout, which begins at the bottom, and -finishes by a bend towards the top, to pour out the liquor. -Eggeling believes that this vase is of the number of those the -ancients called <i>guttus</i>, because the liquor came out drop by drop: -he comes to that conclusion from a passage of Varro—“<i>Quo vinum -dabant, ut minutatim funderent, a guttis guttum appellarunt</i>.” The -vase is divided in three parts by two bands of gold, by which it is -girdled: that of the middle, which forms the largest space, -contains also a larger number of figures. The third diminishes -towards the foot, and has figures also, all of which represent the -mysteries and sacrifices of Ceres and Bacchus.</p> - -<p>The reader will probably feel interested how this vase came into -the possession of the Duke of Brunswick. It was in the cabinet of -the Duke of Mantua. When that city was taken and sacked, in 1629, a -soldier, who had possession of the vase, offered it to Francis -Albert, Duke of Lower Saxony, his commander, who gave him a hundred -ducats as a reward. This prince left it by will to the Princess -Christina Marguerite of Mecklenburg, his wife, who left it in the -same way to her sister, the Princess Sophia, Duchess of Brunswick. -She also gave it by will to her son, Ferdinand Albert, Duke of -Brunswick. The lapidaries thought so much of it, that they offered, -in turn, from sixty to ninety thousand imperials. In the inventory -of the Princess Sophia it was valued at one hundred and fifty -thousand imperials.<a name="anc_t" id="anc_t"></a><a href="#footnote_t"><span class="fnanchor">[T]</span></a></p></div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="pl_XXVI-b" id="pl_XXVI-b"></a> -<a href="images/ill_pg_367_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_367_sml.jpg" width="291" height="398" alt="Image not available: Pl. 26A. - -DUKE OF BRUNSWICK’S VASE." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">Pl. 26B. - -DUKE OF BRUNSWICK’S VASE.</span> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_367" id="page_367"></a>{367}</span></p> - -<p>The municipal bodies adopted them. At the entrance of Charles VII. into -Paris, one of this kind was seen in the Rue St. Denis:—“One of the -tubes spouted milk, another vermilion-coloured wine, another white wine, -and another pure water; and persons stood all round with silver cups to -give drink to the passers-by.”</p> - -<p>In the 17th century playing fountains were still used at -repasts.<a name="anc_xxxi_34" id="anc_xxxi_34"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxi_34"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXI_34]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_368" id="page_368"></a>{368}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="XXXII" id="XXXII"></a>XXXII.<br /><br /> -THE TABLE.</h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">It</span> is pretended, says Athenæus, that in the Homeric times each guest had -a table to himself,<a name="anc_xxxii_1" id="anc_xxxii_1"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxii_1"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXII_1]</span></a> on which he was served with “a saddle-back -of beef, or a whole sheep or goat.” It was the custom among the heroes, -all men of high lineage, and tolerably aristocratic in their tastes. The -burghers of those warlike times and the villeins of the epoch eat their -dinner, without form or ceremony, on a heap of grass, which also served -them as a seat or couch.<a name="anc_xxxii_2" id="anc_xxxii_2"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxii_2"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXII_2]</span></a></p> - -<p>Wooden tables—at first very clumsy ones, no doubt—only came into use -when the development of human industry had enabled men to understand -that they might be preferable to a truss of hay.<a name="anc_xxxii_3" id="anc_xxxii_3"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxii_3"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXII_3]</span></a> A passage in -Homer would seem to show that they were very much like ours.<a name="anc_xxxii_4" id="anc_xxxii_4"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxii_4"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXII_4]</span></a> -Perhaps the circular form was generally preferred.<a name="anc_xxxii_5" id="anc_xxxii_5"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxii_5"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXII_5]</span></a></p> - -<p>Luxury soon called for the most precious materials, and the Greeks had, -at a very early period, tables of bronze,<a name="anc_xxxii_6" id="anc_xxxii_6"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxii_6"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXII_6]</span></a> and even of fine -silver.<a name="anc_xxxii_7" id="anc_xxxii_7"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxii_7"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXII_7]</span></a> The isle of Rhenea produced magnificent ones,<a name="anc_xxxii_8" id="anc_xxxii_8"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxii_8"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXII_8]</span></a> -and an expensive fashion caused those luxurious pieces of furniture to -be prized when they presented delicate incrustations of silver, bronze, -or ivory, and rested on lions’ claws or leopards’ feet.<a name="anc_xxxii_9" id="anc_xxxii_9"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxii_9"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXII_9]</span></a></p> - -<p>Cneus Manlius introduced these rarities into Rome after the conquest of -Asia.<a name="anc_xxxii_10" id="anc_xxxii_10"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxii_10"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXII_10]</span></a> He was also the originator of tables veneered with -plates of gold,<a name="anc_xxxii_11" id="anc_xxxii_11"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxii_11"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXII_11]</span></a> which ere long adorned the dining-rooms of -princes and senators, and the excessive price of which was only -surpassed by that of tables made of precious woods from distant -countries.<a name="anc_xxxii_12" id="anc_xxxii_12"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxii_12"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXII_12]</span></a> The maple, the whitten, and a species of African -lemon-tree occupied the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_369" id="page_369"></a>{369}</span> first rank,<a name="anc_xxxii_13" id="anc_xxxii_13"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxii_13"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXII_13]</span></a> and the prodigious skill -of the workmen gave them a value superior to gold and silver.<a name="anc_xxxii_14" id="anc_xxxii_14"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxii_14"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXII_14]</span></a></p> - -<p>The most beautiful of these tables were spotted or veined to imitate the -tiger’s or panther’s skin; but they acquired an exorbitant claim upon -the admiration of connoisseurs when they bore the marvellous design of a -peacock’s tail. This fantastic play of nature commanded a boundless -price.<a name="anc_xxxii_15" id="anc_xxxii_15"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxii_15"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXII_15]</span></a></p> - -<p>An artist of unrivalled talent, Carvilius Pollio, was the first, -according to Pliny,<a name="anc_xxxii_16" id="anc_xxxii_16"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxii_16"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXII_16]</span></a> who enriched these magnificent woods with -buhl-work of ivory and shell in the acme of perfection.<a name="anc_xxxii_17" id="anc_xxxii_17"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxii_17"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXII_17]</span></a> Under -the reign of Nero, the Romans dyed this shell, and thought to increase -its primitive value by giving it the tints and accidental shades of the -cedar, the maple, and the lemon tree.<a name="anc_xxxii_18" id="anc_xxxii_18"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxii_18"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXII_18]</span></a></p> - -<p>These splendid pieces of furniture were at first square;<a name="anc_xxxii_19" id="anc_xxxii_19"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxii_19"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXII_19]</span></a> then -round;<a name="anc_xxxii_20" id="anc_xxxii_20"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxii_20"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXII_20]</span></a> then in the form of a half-circle or half-moon, and -this horseshoe-shaped table they called a <i>sigma</i>, from the name of that -Greek letter, which resembled our C.<a name="anc_xxxii_21" id="anc_xxxii_21"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxii_21"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXII_21]</span></a> The guests whom any -person wished to honour most were placed at the extremities of this -hemicycle,<a name="anc_xxxii_22" id="anc_xxxii_22"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxii_22"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXII_22]</span></a> overlaid with magnificent covers, which replaced -the skins of beasts, formerly used for their adornment; and, in -addition, they were spread with tissues of fine linen and rich stuffs -elaborately worked.<a name="anc_xxxii_23" id="anc_xxxii_23"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxii_23"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXII_23]</span></a></p> - -<p>The tables were changed at each course.<a name="anc_xxxii_24" id="anc_xxxii_24"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxii_24"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXII_24]</span></a> The Greeks cleaned -them with sponge;<a name="anc_xxxii_25" id="anc_xxxii_25"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxii_25"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXII_25]</span></a> the Latins used a sort of thick, plushed, -linen cloth.<a name="anc_xxxii_26" id="anc_xxxii_26"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxii_26"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXII_26]</span></a></p> - -<p>The opulent citizens possessed a great number of tables; some were of -ivory,<a name="anc_xxxii_27" id="anc_xxxii_27"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxii_27"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXII_27]</span></a> others of maple wood, cedar of Mount Atlas,<a name="anc_xxxii_28" id="anc_xxxii_28"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxii_28"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXII_28]</span></a> -or lemon.<a name="anc_xxxii_29" id="anc_xxxii_29"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxii_29"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXII_29]</span></a><a name="anc_u" id="anc_u"></a><a href="#footnote_u"><span class="fnanchor">[U]</span></a> Cicero had one of this latter kind of wood which -cost him 200,000 sesterces—about £1,480.<a name="anc_xxxii_30" id="anc_xxxii_30"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxii_30"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXII_30]</span></a> They rested on one, -two, or three feet,<a name="anc_xxxii_31" id="anc_xxxii_31"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxii_31"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXII_31]</span></a> and were called monopedes, bipedes, and -tripedes.</p> - -<p>The Romans often changed tables only twice during the repast. Fish and -flesh appeared on the first, and the fruit was served on the -second.<a name="anc_xxxii_32" id="anc_xxxii_32"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxii_32"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXII_32]</span></a> The same custom was common to the Greeks and the -oriental nations. The Hebrews had also two tables in their solemn feasts -and sacrificial banquets; on one was served the flesh of the victim, and -on the other they placed the cup of benediction, which passed round from -one to another, and was called “the cup of praise.”<a name="anc_xxxii_33" id="anc_xxxii_33"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxii_33"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXII_33]</span></a></p> - -<p>The luxury of Rome seemed to revive after she had become extinct.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_370" id="page_370"></a>{370}</span> Saint -Rémi, Bishop of Rheims, left to his heirs a silver table, embellished -with figures.<a name="anc_xxxii_34" id="anc_xxxii_34"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxii_34"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXII_34]</span></a> Charlemagne had three made of the same -metal—the first represented the ancient capital of the world; the -second, Constantinople; the third, every known region of the -earth.<a name="anc_xxxii_35" id="anc_xxxii_35"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxii_35"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXII_35]</span></a> Aymar, Viscount of Limoges, found on his estate a -treasure, which consisted of a table, round which were seated an -emperor, his wife, and several children—all as large as life, and of -massive gold. Richard Cœur-de-Lion pretended that the treasure -belonged to him as Lord of Limousin, and went to lay siege to the castle -of Chalons, to which Aymar had retired, where the king received a wound, -of which he died the 6th of April, 1199.<a name="anc_xxxii_36" id="anc_xxxii_36"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxii_36"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXII_36]</span></a></p> - -<p>Silver tables still existed in the 17th century. Madame de Sévigné -(1689), speaking of persons who, following the example of Louis XIV., -sent their plate to the mint, says: “Madame de Chaulnes has sent her -table, two <i>guéridons</i>, and her beautiful toilet of silver gilt.”</p> - -<p>At some distance from the sigma, on a slightly raised platform, were -three kinds of elegant <i>crédences</i> for the cups, wines, and -vases.<a name="anc_xxxii_37" id="anc_xxxii_37"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxii_37"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXII_37]</span></a> The major-domo himself, generally attended to this part -of the service.</p> - -<p>A very curious old book, cited by Strutt, “<i>The Booke of -Kervynge,</i>”<a name="anc_xxxii_38" id="anc_xxxii_38"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxii_38"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXII_38]</span></a> contains the following instructions as to the -manner of laying the cloth for the King of England:—</p> - -<p>“Serve your Soverayne with wafers and ypocras. Also loke your composte -be fayre and clene, and your ale fyve dayes olde before men drynke it, -and be curtays of answere to eche persone; and whan ye laye the clothe, -wype the borde clene with a cloute (<i>cloth</i>); then lay a couch -(<i>cloth</i>), take your feluwe, that one ende, and holde you the other -ende, then drawe the clothe straught, the bought on the utter edge, take -the utter parte and hange it even, then take the thyrde clothe, and laye -it bought on the inner edge, and laye estat with the upper parte halfe a -fote brode, then cover thy cupborde and thyne ewery with the towel of -dyaper; than take thy towell about thy necke, and laye that on syde of -the towel upon thy lefte arme, and thereon laye your soveraynes napkyn, -and on thyn arme seven loves of brede, with thre or foure trenchour -loves, with the ende of the towel, in the lefte hande as the maner is; -then take thy salte seller in thy lefte hande, and take the ende of the</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="c">DESCRIPTION OF <a href="#pl_XXVII">PLATE No. XXVII.</a></p> - -<p>No. 1. Etruscan flat vase, of terra cotta, with a cover, to hold a -particular drink (warm, perhaps).</p> - -<p>No. 2. A marble vase, ornamented, for water.</p> - -<p>No. 3. A metal vase, to fill the cups of the guests.</p> - -<p>No. 4. A Greek Etruscan drinking vase, of terra cotta, in form of a -seated Bacchanal.—“<i>Hercul.</i>”</p></div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="pl_XXVII" id="pl_XXVII"></a> -<a href="images/ill_pg_370_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_370_sml.jpg" width="248" height="453" alt="Image not available: Pl. 27" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">Pl. 27</span> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_371" id="page_371"></a>{371}</span></p> - -<p class="nind">towell in your ryght hand, to bear in spones and knyves; than set your -salte on the ryght syde, where your soverayne shall sytte, and on the -lefte syde the salte set your trenchoures; than laye your knyves, and -set your brede one lofe by another; your spones, and your napkyns, fayre -folder besyde your brede, than over your brede, and trenchours, spones, -and knyves, and at every ende of the table set a salte seller, with two -trenchour loves, and yf ye wyll wrappe youre soverayne’s brede stately, -ye must square and proporcyon your brede, and see that no lofe be more -than another; and than shall ye make your wrapper manerly; than take a -towell of reynes, of two yerdes and an halfe, and take the towell by the -endes double, and laye it on the table; than take the ende of the bought -a handfull in your hande, and wrape it harde, and laye the ende so -wrapped betwene two towells, upon that ende so wrapped laye your brede, -bottom to bottom, syx or seven loves; than set your brede manerly in -fourm, and whan your soverayne’s table is thus arrayed, cover all other -bordes with salt, trenchours, and cuppes; and se thyn ewery be arrayed -with basyns and ewers, and water, hote and colde; and se ye have -napkins, cuppes and spones; and se your pottes for wyne and ale be made -clene, and to the surnape make curtesy, with a clothe, under a fayre -double napry; than take the towelle’s ende next you, and the utter ende -of the clothe, on the utter syde of the table, and holde these three -endes at ones, and folde them at ones, that a plyte passe not a fote -brode; than laye it as it should lye: and after mete wasshe with that, -that is at the ryghte ende of the table, ye must guyde it out, and the -marshall must convey it; and loke on eche clothe, the ryghte syde be -outwarde, and draw it streygthe; than must ye reyse the upper parte of -the towell, and laye it without ony grouyng, and at every ende of the -towell, ye must convey halfe a yarde that the sewer may make reverently -and let it be. And whan your soverayne hath washen, drawe the surnape -even; than bere the surnape to the myddes of the borde, and take it up -before your soverayne, and bere it into the ewery agayne; and whan your -soverayne is set, loke your towell be aboute your necke; then make your -soverayne curtesy; than uncover your brede, and set it by the salt, and -laye your napkyn, knyfe, and spone, afore hym; than knele on your knee -till the purpayne passe eyght loves; and loke ye set at your endes of -the table foure loves at a messe; and se that every persone have napkyn -and spone, and wayte well to the server, how many dysshes be covered, -that so many cuppes cover ye; than serve ye forth the table manerly, -that every man may speke your curtesy.”<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_372" id="page_372"></a>{372}</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>THE TABLE SEATS.</h3> - -<p>The Jews originally sat down to their meals; but when they became -subject to Persia they laid on couches at their repasts, like their -conquerors, and other oriental nations, from whom the Greeks and Romans -borrowed their custom.<a name="anc_xxxii_39" id="anc_xxxii_39"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxii_39"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXII_39]</span></a> The most distinguished place was at the -head of the table, at the extremity of the room, near the wall. Saul sat -in this place of honour.<a name="anc_xxxii_40" id="anc_xxxii_40"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxii_40"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXII_40]</span></a> Under the reign of Solomon, the -Hebrews still used seats.<a name="anc_xxxii_41" id="anc_xxxii_41"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxii_41"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXII_41]</span></a> The Egyptians were early acquainted -with the effeminate sumptuousness of table couches. They often placed on -them the venerated images of Jupiter, Juno, and their king -himself.<a name="anc_xxxii_42" id="anc_xxxii_42"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxii_42"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXII_42]</span></a></p> - -<p>Before they had adopted this refinement of oriental luxury, the Greeks -sat at their repasts on chairs, more or less costly, but all very -elegant, similar to those which adorn our drawing-rooms, and which have -been modelled from theirs.<a name="anc_xxxii_43" id="anc_xxxii_43"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxii_43"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXII_43]</span></a></p> - -<p>Homer’s heroes sat down to table,<a name="anc_xxxii_44" id="anc_xxxii_44"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxii_44"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXII_44]</span></a> and Alexander the Great -appears to have preserved the custom. That prince giving a repast to ten -thousand persons, caused all to be seated in silver arm-chairs, covered -with purple.<a name="anc_xxxii_45" id="anc_xxxii_45"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxii_45"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXII_45]</span></a> However, Hegesander assures us that, among the -Macedonians, he who had succeeded in killing a wild boar, reclined at -full length, whilst the other guests remained seated.<a name="anc_xxxii_46" id="anc_xxxii_46"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxii_46"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXII_46]</span></a></p> - -<p>Italy always imitated Greece, and, like her, had table couches, which at -first, were only used by men: a feeling of propriety interdicted their -use by women.<a name="anc_xxxii_47" id="anc_xxxii_47"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxii_47"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXII_47]</span></a> But the relaxation of morals, seconded by -fashion, soon banished this seeming reserve, and the two sexes could -only eat in a reclining posture.<a name="anc_xxxii_48" id="anc_xxxii_48"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxii_48"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXII_48]</span></a></p> - -<p>A round, low table, made of common wood, and resting on three legs, was -placed in the dining-room of persons in humble life; the rich had it -made of lemon or maple wood, and supported by a single ivory -foot.<a name="anc_xxxii_49" id="anc_xxxii_49"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxii_49"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXII_49]</span></a> Three couches at most were arranged round this table -(<i>triclinium</i>);<a name="anc_xxxii_50" id="anc_xxxii_50"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxii_50"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXII_50]</span></a> sometimes two, which Plautus names -<i>biclinium</i>;<a name="anc_xxxii_51" id="anc_xxxii_51"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxii_51"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXII_51]</span></a> and these they covered with purple or other -magnificent stuffs.<a name="anc_xxxii_52" id="anc_xxxii_52"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxii_52"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXII_52]</span></a> Before they placed themselves, the guests -performed their ablutions and threw off their togas, to substitute the -“dinner robe.”<a name="anc_xxxii_53" id="anc_xxxii_53"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxii_53"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXII_53]</span></a> They then took off their<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_373" id="page_373"></a>{373}</span> sandals,<a name="anc_xxxii_54" id="anc_xxxii_54"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxii_54"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXII_54]</span></a> -and lay down, three or four on each couch.<a name="anc_xxxii_55" id="anc_xxxii_55"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxii_55"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXII_55]</span></a> The rules of good -society did not allow that number to be exceeded.</p> - -<p>The upper part of the body was supported by the left elbow; the lower -part was extended. The head was slightly raised, and downy little -cushions supported the back.<a name="anc_xxxii_56" id="anc_xxxii_56"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxii_56"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXII_56]</span></a> When several persons occupied the -same couch, the first placed himself at the head, in such a manner that -his feet nearly reached the shoulders of the second guest, whose head -was before the middle of the body of the preceding one, from whom he was -separated by a cushion; and his feet descended to the back of the third -guest, who followed the same order with respect to the fourth.<a name="anc_xxxii_57" id="anc_xxxii_57"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxii_57"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXII_57]</span></a></p> - -<p>When a couch contained three persons, the one in the middle occupied the -place of honour; when there were four, that distinction belonged to the -second. The place at the head of the couch was only offered to the most -worthy, when not more than two persons were on the couch.<a name="anc_xxxii_58" id="anc_xxxii_58"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxii_58"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXII_58]</span></a></p> - -<p>Among the Persians, the middle place was reserved for the king. Cyrus -placed on his left the guest to whom he wished to do the most honour, -the next on his right, the third on the left, the fourth on the right, -and so on, down to the last.<a name="anc_xxxii_59" id="anc_xxxii_59"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxii_59"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXII_59]</span></a> In Greece, the most distinguished -personage occupied the head of the table.<a name="anc_xxxii_60" id="anc_xxxii_60"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxii_60"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXII_60]</span></a></p> - -<p>The voluptuous Heliogabalus only made use of couches stuffed with hares’ -down or partridges’ feathers.<a name="anc_xxxii_61" id="anc_xxxii_61"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxii_61"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXII_61]</span></a> The Emperor Œlius Verus -introduced a more exquisite novelty: he had his filled with lily and -rose leaves.<a name="anc_xxxii_62" id="anc_xxxii_62"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxii_62"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXII_62]</span></a> The first of these princes—a cruel monarch, or -capricious child, according to his strange whims—amused himself, -sometimes, by placing on a couch, round the sigma, at one time eight -bald men; at another, eight gouty men; one day, eight grey-headed old -men; another day, eight very fat men, who were so crowded together that -it was almost impossible for them to raise their hands to the mouth. And -the brainless dolt shook with laughter at their efforts and their -contortions.<a name="anc_xxxii_63" id="anc_xxxii_63"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxii_63"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXII_63]</span></a> One of his favourite diversions consisted in -filling a leathern table-couch with air, instead of wool; and while the -guests were engaged in drinking, a tap, concealed under the carpet, was -opened, unknown to them; the couch sank, and the drinkers rolled -pell-mell under the sigma, to the great delight of the beardless -emperor, who enjoyed greatly his <i>espiéglerie</i>.<a name="anc_xxxii_64" id="anc_xxxii_64"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxii_64"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXII_64]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Celts seated themselves at their repasts on hay, before very low -tables;<a name="anc_xxxii_65" id="anc_xxxii_65"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxii_65"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXII_65]</span></a> the Belgians reclined on a kind of couch;<a name="anc_xxxii_66" id="anc_xxxii_66"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxii_66"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXII_66]</span></a> -the Gauls on<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_374" id="page_374"></a>{374}</span> the skins of dogs or wolves.<a name="anc_xxxii_67" id="anc_xxxii_67"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxii_67"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXII_67]</span></a> These different -authorities are easily reconciled; for they relate to different cantons -of Gaul.</p> - -<p>The use of couches was not unknown in the middle ages; we find the proof -of it in the <i>fabliaux</i> of the 13th century. We have also the -description of a magnificent repast given by a bishop to two great -officers of Charlemagne, at which the prelate was seated, or lying, on -feather cushions.<a name="anc_xxxii_68" id="anc_xxxii_68"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxii_68"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXII_68]</span></a> But this fashion was unsuccessful, and -people preferred wooden seats and stools, covered with carpet. When they -gave a great feast, they seated the guests on benches—<i>bancs</i>—whence -comes the word “banquet.”<a name="anc_xxxii_69" id="anc_xxxii_69"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxii_69"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXII_69]</span></a> Henry III. of France introduced -arm-chairs for himself, and folding stools for his suite.<a name="anc_xxxii_70" id="anc_xxxii_70"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxii_70"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXII_70]</span></a> -Sometimes people eat on the floor. St. Arnold, Bishop of Soissons, took -his repast in that manner on the day of the dedication of a church, -after having had carpets spread on the ground.<a name="anc_xxxii_71" id="anc_xxxii_71"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxii_71"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXII_71]</span></a> In winter the -banqueting place was spread with straw or hay, and in summer with grass -and leaves. Publicans and tavern-keepers decorated their rooms in like -manner.<a name="anc_xxxii_72" id="anc_xxxii_72"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxii_72"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXII_72]</span></a></p> - -<p>The gallantry of the middle ages had led to the adoption of a rather -singular custom, which consisted in placing the guests two and two, man -and woman, and serving for each couple one common dish, which they -called “eating in the same porringer.” Neither had they more than one -cup. In families the same goblet served for all. Saint Berlanda was -disinherited by her father, who was exasperated because, under pretext -that he was leprous, she had washed his goblet before making use of it -for herself.<a name="anc_xxxii_73" id="anc_xxxii_73"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxii_73"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXII_73]</span></a></p> - -<p>A passage in Martial would seem to imply that the guests, among the -Romans, laid the cloth themselves;<a name="anc_xxxii_74" id="anc_xxxii_74"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxii_74"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXII_74]</span></a> that is to say, they spread -on the sigma the stuff, more or less precious, with which it was to be -adorned.</p> - -<p>A somewhat whimsical custom was established in the middle ages of -chivalry. When it was intended to affront any one, a herald, or -king-at-arms, was sent to cut the cloth before him, and turn his bread -upside down. That was called “cutting away the cloth,” and was practised -in reference to cowards and faithless vassals. It is thought that -Bertrand Duguesclin was the originator of this custom.<a name="anc_xxxii_75" id="anc_xxxii_75"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxii_75"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXII_75]</span></a></p> - -<p>Mention is made of table-cloths in the life of St. Eloi. They were in -use on common tables; but the costly ones were not covered. These cloths -were plushed and shaggy, as we find by the description of Nigellus, the -author of a poem on Louis-le-Débonnaire. They were of vast dimensions. -In the inventory of certain effects in the monastery<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_375" id="page_375"></a>{375}</span> of Fontenelle, in -the 9th century, we read of four table-cloths, each of which measured -twelve yards and a-half by two and a-half; another, twelve and a-half by -three and three-quarters; and thirteen, three yards and three-quarters -wide.</p> - -<p>In the 12th and 13th centuries table-cloths were called, in France, -<i>doubliers</i>, doubtless because they were folded in two. This practice -was eventually given up; and instead of a doubled cloth, the first was -covered by a smaller one, and removed at the last course. Henry III. -required this dessert cloth to be artistically plaited, so as to present -pleasing designs.<a name="anc_xxxii_76" id="anc_xxxii_76"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxii_76"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXII_76]</span></a></p> - -<p>Napkins were much used in Greece and Italy. In the time of Augustus, and -many years after, each guest brought his own, as we bring our -pocket-handkerchiefs. Catullus complains of a certain Asinius, who had -stolen his. Martial brings a similar accusation against a parasite named -Hermogenes.<a name="anc_xxxii_77" id="anc_xxxii_77"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxii_77"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXII_77]</span></a></p> - -<p>Napkins were sometimes made of asbestos, and they were thrown into a -brazier to clean them.<a name="anc_xxxii_78" id="anc_xxxii_78"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxii_78"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXII_78]</span></a> But these rarities were seldom -possessed by any but princes, for asbestos was as expensive as -jewels.<a name="anc_xxxii_79" id="anc_xxxii_79"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxii_79"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXII_79]</span></a></p> - -<p>The constitution of St. Ansegisius for the monastery of Fontenelle -mentions plush napkins to wipe the hands, but they were only used before -and after the repast. The town of Rheims was renowned in the middle ages -for the manufacture of table linen. When Charles VII. made his entrance -there they presented him with napkins, “very rich and curious by reason -of the beautiful flowered work.”<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_376" id="page_376"></a>{376}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="XXXIII" id="XXXIII"></a>XXXIII.<br /><br /> -THE SERVANTS.</h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">All</span> the opulent families had a great number of servants, or slaves, -whose low extraction,<a name="anc_xxxiii_1" id="anc_xxxiii_1"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxiii_1"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXIII_1]</span></a> the chances of war,<a name="anc_xxxiii_2" id="anc_xxxiii_2"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxiii_2"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXIII_2]</span></a> or the -parental will,<a name="anc_xxxiii_3" id="anc_xxxiii_3"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxiii_3"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXIII_3]</span></a> subjected to the caprices of the rich as a mere -thing possessed, a right, a property (<i>res</i>).</p> - -<p>They were known, like the slaves of the Jews<a name="anc_xxxiii_4" id="anc_xxxiii_4"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxiii_4"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXIII_4]</span></a> in former times, -by their ears, which were pierced with an awl;<a name="anc_xxxiii_5" id="anc_xxxiii_5"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxiii_5"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXIII_5]</span></a> an ineffaceable -stigma, which always reminded the freed-man of his former humiliation. -The slave was also often marked with a hot iron on the back, the hands, -the cheeks, or the forehead; and the characters thus imprinted served -the master as an evidence against his fugitive servant in whatsoever -place he might find him.<a name="anc_xxxiii_6" id="anc_xxxiii_6"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxiii_6"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXIII_6]</span></a> It is, perhaps, to similar marks that -the prophet Zechariah makes allusion, when he says: “What are these -wounds in thine hands?”<a name="anc_xxxiii_7" id="anc_xxxiii_7"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxiii_7"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXIII_7]</span></a> Plautus, whose comic vein respects -neither the power of the Gods nor the sanctity of misfortune, calls -these unfortunate creatures “lettered slaves” (<i>servos -literatos</i>).<a name="anc_xxxiii_8" id="anc_xxxiii_8"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxiii_8"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXIII_8]</span></a></p> - -<p>A house of any note could not do without a crowd of servants, to whom -the steward (<i>dispensator</i>) apportioned the labour, the food, and the -chastisements.<a name="anc_xxxiii_9" id="anc_xxxiii_9"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxiii_9"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXIII_9]</span></a></p> - -<p>In a lodge near the vestibule was the porter (<i>ostiarius</i>),<a name="anc_xxxiii_10" id="anc_xxxiii_10"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxiii_10"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXIII_10]</span></a> -whose watchful eye observed every one who went in or out by day or -night. They made sure of his vigilance by chaining him to his -place.<a name="anc_xxxiii_11" id="anc_xxxiii_11"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxiii_11"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXIII_11]</span></a></p> - -<p>The hall (<i>atrium</i>) was guarded by an intelligent and confidential -servant, whose functions raised him above the other slaves.<a name="anc_xxxiii_12" id="anc_xxxiii_12"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxiii_12"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXIII_12]</span></a> -The <i>atriensis</i>—such was his designation—had the care of the arms, -trophies,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_377" id="page_377"></a>{377}</span> precious furniture, and books, which adorned this apartment. -He had also to take extreme care of the paintings and wax figures there -preserved from motives of vanity or by a sentiment of respect; and it -was he who carried those images of venerated ancestors before the -funeral procession of the head of the family when, in his turn, death -had numbered him with his progenitors.<a name="anc_xxxiii_13" id="anc_xxxiii_13"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxiii_13"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXIII_13]</span></a></p> - -<p>The <i>obsonator</i> bought in the markets the meat, fruit, and delicacies -necessary for the repasts.<a name="anc_xxxiii_14" id="anc_xxxiii_14"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxiii_14"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXIII_14]</span></a></p> - -<p>The <i>vocatores</i> carried the invitations, received the guests, and placed -them at table according to their rank.<a name="anc_xxxiii_15" id="anc_xxxiii_15"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxiii_15"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXIII_15]</span></a> These functions -required a peculiar kind of urbanity and long experience on the part of -the individual who fulfilled them.</p> - -<p>The arrangement, the keeping in order, and adornment of the -table-couches belonged exclusively to the <i>cubicularii</i> -(valets).<a name="anc_xxxiii_16" id="anc_xxxiii_16"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxiii_16"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXIII_16]</span></a> These servants are mentioned in Suetonius and other -ancient authors. The Cæsars had a great number of <i>cubicularii</i> who -obeyed one particular chief.<a name="anc_xxxiii_17" id="anc_xxxiii_17"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxiii_17"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXIII_17]</span></a></p> - -<p>The <i>dapiferi</i> brought the dishes into the dining-room,<a name="anc_xxxiii_18" id="anc_xxxiii_18"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxiii_18"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXIII_18]</span></a> and -the nomenclators (<i>nomenculatores</i>) immediately informed the guests of -the names and qualities of the things with which they were going to be -served.<a name="anc_xxxiii_19" id="anc_xxxiii_19"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxiii_19"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXIII_19]</span></a></p> - -<p>The <i>structor</i> arranged the dishes symmetrically.<a name="anc_xxxiii_20" id="anc_xxxiii_20"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxiii_20"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXIII_20]</span></a> The -<i>scissor</i> (carver) cut up the meats to the sound of musical instruments, -of which he followed the measure. Finally, young slaves -(<i>procillatores</i>),<a name="anc_xxxiii_21" id="anc_xxxiii_21"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxiii_21"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXIII_21]</span></a> served the guests attentively, and poured -out their drink. Those chosen for this employment were fine, beardless, -adolescent youths, with a fresh complexion, whose long silky hair fell -in curls over the shoulders. A wide riband which went twice round the -waist confined their fine, white tunic—a light, graceful vestment, -which descended in front to the knees, and behind hardly covered the -hamstring.<a name="anc_xxxiii_22" id="anc_xxxiii_22"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxiii_22"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXIII_22]</span></a></p> - -<p>While the guests, softly reclining on their table-couches, were enjoying -the agreeable surprise reserved for them by an amiable amphitryon, -slaves (<i>sandaligeruli</i>) attended to their sandals, and fastened them on -at the moment of departure.<a name="anc_xxxiii_23" id="anc_xxxiii_23"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxiii_23"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXIII_23]</span></a> Others, (<i>flabellarii</i>) armed -with fans of peacocks’ feathers,<a name="anc_xxxiii_24" id="anc_xxxiii_24"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxiii_24"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXIII_24]</span></a> drove away the flies, and -cooled the banqueting-hall.<a name="anc_xxxiii_25" id="anc_xxxiii_25"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxiii_25"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXIII_25]</span></a></p> - -<p>The banquet terminated, servants with torches and lanterns -(<i>adversitores</i>) conducted their masters home, and pointed out to them -the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_378" id="page_378"></a>{378}</span> stones that might be lying in their path, and which repeated -libations might have prevented their visual organs from -discovering.<a name="anc_xxxiii_26" id="anc_xxxiii_26"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxiii_26"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXIII_26]</span></a></p> - -<p>We must not omit, in this nomenclature of the principal servants of a -good house, the taster (<i>prægustator</i>), who tasted or tried the viands -before the guests touched them;<a name="anc_xxxiii_27" id="anc_xxxiii_27"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxiii_27"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXIII_27]</span></a> nor the chief steward -(<i>triclinarches</i>), and director of the repast, who had to occupy himself -with an infinity of details in the kitchen, the cellar, the pantry, the -buffet, and the dining-room.<a name="anc_xxxiii_28" id="anc_xxxiii_28"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxiii_28"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXIII_28]</span></a></p> - -<p>A living synthesis of these multiplied services, he performed them all -himself. The least negligence, the slightest absence of mind on his -part, would have ruined the reputation, utterly marred the sumptuous -hospitality, of his master.</p> - -<p>Never did the general of an army tremble under the weight of a -responsibility so redoubtable.</p> - -<p><i>Procillatores</i>, or cup-bearer, an officer whose duty was to fill and -present the cup to the king and princes. This charge was known in Egypt, -and the ancients transformed Ganymede into a cup-bearer to the gods.</p> - -<p>Charlemagne had master cup-bearers. These officers signed royal -charters, and kept rank amongst the great officers of state. The head -one took the title of <i>Echanson</i> to the king, of master, premier, or -great <i>échanson</i>. In the 15th century the <i>échansons</i> exercised their -functions only on the coronations, marriages, and entries of kings and -queens. Louis XVIII. re-established the office of <i>premier échanson</i>. It -was abolished in 1830.</p> - -<p>There was, moreover, a class of miserable, obscure, despised slaves, -whose useful labours rendered them necessary, and who were treated much -the same as beasts of burden. This order of subaltern servants were -composed of:—</p> - -<p>The <i>lecticarii</i>. They carried the elegant palanquin in which the -haughty matron or the noble senator were conveyed to the -banqueting-hall.<a name="anc_xxxiii_29" id="anc_xxxiii_29"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxiii_29"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXIII_29]</span></a></p> - -<p>The stokers (<i>focarii</i>), who cut the wood, lighted, and attended to the -fires.<a name="anc_xxxiii_30" id="anc_xxxiii_30"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxiii_30"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXIII_30]</span></a></p> - -<p>The sweepers (<i>scoparii</i>), whose indefatigable activity kept the -apartments and furniture clean.<a name="anc_xxxiii_31" id="anc_xxxiii_31"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxiii_31"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXIII_31]</span></a></p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="c">DESCRIPTION OF <a href="#pl_XXVIII">PLATE No. XXVIII.</a></p> - -<p>No. 1. Procillatores, or <i>Echanson</i>, from a painting at -Herculaneum.</p> - -<p>No. 2. Triclinium, from a sculpture at Pompeii.</p></div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="pl_XXVIII" id="pl_XXVIII"></a> -<span class="caption">Pl. 28.</span><br /> -<a href="images/ill_pg_378_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_378a_sml.jpg" width="231" height="166" alt="Image not available: Pl. 28. -TRICLINIUM." /></a><br /> -<span class="caption">TRICLINIUM.</span> -</div> - - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_pg_378_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_378b_sml.jpg" width="170" height="303" alt="Image not available: Pl. 28. - -PROCILLATORES." /></a><br /> -<span class="caption">PROCILLATORES.</span> -</div> - - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_379" id="page_379"></a>{379}</span></p> - -<p>The washers (<i>peniculi</i>). With a sponge and a cloth they cleaned the -precious tables which adorned the <i>cœnaculum</i>, or dining-room. -Sometimes, also, they had to lay the covers.<a name="anc_xxxiii_32" id="anc_xxxiii_32"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxiii_32"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXIII_32]</span></a></p> - -<p>This rapid sketch will enable the reader to form a sufficiently correct -idea of the comfort and luxury which prevailed among the Romans, and of -which the Greeks set them the example. It is hardly necessary to remark -that the cup-bearers, stewards, carvers, and other household officers, -whose names belong to modern Europe, perform functions analogous to -those which similar servants performed formerly in Italy. But these last -were debased by the stigma of slavery, and degraded by long habit, -whilst the others were citizens.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_380" id="page_380"></a>{380}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="XXXIV" id="XXXIV"></a>XXXIV.<br /><br /> -THE GUESTS.</h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">The</span> Jews and the Egyptians washed the feet of the persons whom they -received into their houses, and offered them larger portions as a mark -of greater honour.<a name="anc_xxxiv_1" id="anc_xxxiv_1"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxiv_1"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXIV_1]</span></a> These homely and hospitable usages have -disappeared with the simplicity of the primitive ages.</p> - -<p>The Greeks required their guests to arrive neither too soon nor too -late. It was a rule of politeness from which nothing could exempt -them,<a name="anc_xxxiv_2" id="anc_xxxiv_2"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxiv_2"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXIV_2]</span></a> and which we ourselves observe at this day.</p> - -<p>In the Homeric ages each one received his share of meat and -wine,<a name="anc_xxxiv_3" id="anc_xxxiv_3"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxiv_3"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXIV_3]</span></a> and the man who at that epoch piqued himself on his -knowledge of the science of life, never failed to offer his neighbour a -part of his dinner. So Ulysses gives Demodochus one-half of the “chine -of beef” with which he is served.<a name="anc_xxxiv_4" id="anc_xxxiv_4"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxiv_4"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXIV_4]</span></a> It is true that the King of -Ithaca was regarded as a perfect model of complaisance and delicacy.</p> - -<p>Another custom (adopted it is said only in the modern taverns and -dining-rooms) was that of warming the remains of a preceding banquet for -other guests.<a name="anc_xxxiv_5" id="anc_xxxiv_5"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxiv_5"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXIV_5]</span></a> It must have constituted very poor fare, for the -Greeks were remarkable for a formidable appetite, and their repasts were -prolonged indefinitely. The banquet of Menelaus, noticed by Athenæus, is -a proof of it. They eat at first without speaking, and after prodigies -of mastication they began to discourse. Then, having washed their hands, -face, and beard, a fresh attack was commenced, more formidable than the -first; and when the ardour and energy of the assailants seemed to be -exhausted, they hardly took time to breathe ere they fell on the viands -with renewed avidity. Nothing resisted them; the dishes were cleared; -only a few bones remained to certify their achievement.<a name="anc_xxxiv_6" id="anc_xxxiv_6"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxiv_6"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXIV_6]</span></a> A -saddening, unsatisfactory trophy for future guests.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_381" id="page_381"></a>{381}</span></p> - -<p>Archestrates, whose gastronomic axioms we cannot respect too much, was -averse to large dinner parties. Three or four persons—five at -most—chosen with care, assembled with taste, appeared to him -sufficient<a name="anc_xxxiv_7" id="anc_xxxiv_7"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxiv_7"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXIV_7]</span></a> for those solemnities in which silence was to be -maintained so long, under pain, said Montmaur, of no longer knowing what -one eats.</p> - -<p>The Lacedæmonians admitted as many as fifteen guests, but they elected a -king of the banquet, and that ephemeral autocrat decided without appeal -all questions which might have compromised the tranquillity of the -banquet.<a name="anc_xxxiv_8" id="anc_xxxiv_8"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxiv_8"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXIV_8]</span></a></p> - -<p>Greater numbers met together in Athens. Plato gave a supper to -twenty-eight of his friends.<a name="anc_xxxiv_9" id="anc_xxxiv_9"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxiv_9"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXIV_9]</span></a> Hundreds of citizens often met -together at the public repasts; but then a magistrate was deputed to see -that modesty, moderation, and temperance were observed.<a name="anc_xxxiv_10" id="anc_xxxiv_10"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxiv_10"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXIV_10]</span></a></p> - -<p>The Romans understood that it is at table that one lives; so they gave -those whom they invited the name of <i>conviva</i> (<i>cum vivere</i>, living -conjointly), a charming type of that easy, gentle cordiality which -arises, is fortified, and displayed between those who partake of the -same dishes, drain in friendship cups of the same wine, and separate -with the hope of soon seeing a return of the same pleasures.</p> - -<p>People were very polite in Rome, as in Greece, when they met in the -dining-room. Never did they fail to make a low bow.<a name="anc_xxxiv_11" id="anc_xxxiv_11"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxiv_11"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXIV_11]</span></a> This act -of Roman courtesy recalls a very pretty expression of Fontenelle’s, -which we cannot refrain from citing. This grand nephew of the great -Corneille passed, on his way to the table, before Madame Helvétius, whom -he had not perceived. Fontenelle was then ninety years of age. “See,” -said she, “what esteem I must have for your gallantry: you pass before -me without looking at me.” “Be not surprised, Madam,” replied the old -gallant; “if I had looked at you I should never have passed.”</p> - -<p>In the year of Rome 570 (182 <small>B.C.</small>), the tribune of the people, C. -Orchius, was the prime mover of the first sumptuary law, which enacted -that the number of guests were not to exceed that of the Muses, nor be -less than that of the Graces.<a name="anc_xxxiv_12" id="anc_xxxiv_12"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxiv_12"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXIV_12]</span></a> Subsequently seven were thought -to be sufficient, and some insisted that when there were more the -banquet ought rather to be called a rout.<a name="anc_xxxiv_13" id="anc_xxxiv_13"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxiv_13"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXIV_13]</span></a></p> - -<p>In the year of Rome 548, the Consul C. Fannius carried a law (<i>Lex -Fannia</i>) which prohibited the assembling of more than three persons of -the same family on ordinary days, or more than five at the nones, or on -festival days.<a name="anc_xxxiv_14" id="anc_xxxiv_14"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxiv_14"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXIV_14]</span></a> This rigorous measure was pressingly solicited<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_382" id="page_382"></a>{382}</span> -by the rational portion of every order of citizens, who could not -witness without a shudder the whole of Italy plunge into the most -brutifying excesses, after obscene orgies which we dare not -describe.<a name="anc_xxxiv_15" id="anc_xxxiv_15"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxiv_15"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXIV_15]</span></a></p> - -<p>But who could dissipate that fearful bewilderment with which nations -seem to be seized when they are about to fall? Rome blushed for her -ancient virtues, and veiled them with dissolution and crimes. She had -exhausted all the prodigies that the genius of debauchery could -invent—she created monsters!</p> - -<p>Ruinous banquets soon revived, and the number of guests had no other -rule than the unbridled desire of ostentation and expense.</p> - -<p>Let us not forget those miserable parasites who managed to get to the -corner of a table in Greece and Italy, and to whom meagre portions were -conceded as a reward for cringing servility, such as the vilest slave -would have been ashamed to exhibit. There were three kinds of parasites. -Some, under the name of buffoons, amused the company with their -grotesque attitudes and ridiculous sayings.<a name="anc_xxxiv_16" id="anc_xxxiv_16"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxiv_16"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXIV_16]</span></a> Others allowed -their ears to be boxed, and suffered a thousand different torments, -provided a piece of meat or a bone were afterwards thrown to them. These -patient sufferers<a name="anc_xxxiv_17" id="anc_xxxiv_17"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxiv_17"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXIV_17]</span></a> diverted the Greeks and Romans very much. -The adulatory parasites were the most skilful of these hungry parias. -They were well treated and almost respected. They were persons who -possessed a kind of merit which was always equally appreciated, and to -which we still render justice—they flattered whosoever gave them a -supper.<a name="anc_xxxiv_18" id="anc_xxxiv_18"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxiv_18"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXIV_18]</span></a></p> - -<p>An energetic, familiar expression in French often replaces the word -<i>parasite</i>, transmitted to us by the Greeks and Romans: that expression, -which conveys the same idea, is <i>pique-assiette</i>, an image necessarily -associated with disdain and insult.</p> - -<p>The Count de Gerval had invited to his table several persons of high -distinction, among whom was remarked one of those intruders who find -means to get themselves received, notwithstanding the profound contempt -they inspire. The dessert was just served, and a magnificent pear -attracted the attention of the parasite, who endeavoured to bear it off -on the point of his knife, but, in so doing, he broke a valuable plate. -“The deuce take it, sir,” said the master of the house; “<i>piquez -l’assiette</i> as long as you like, but don’t break it!”</p> - -<p>The guests always washed their hands, and frequently their feet, before -they placed themselves on the triclinium.<a name="anc_b" id="anc_b"></a><a href="#footnote_b"><span class="fnanchor">[B]</span></a><a name="anc_xxxiv_19" id="anc_xxxiv_19"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxiv_19"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXIV_19]</span></a> They received -that<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_383" id="page_383"></a>{383}</span> custom from the orientals, and we find numerous examples of it in -the Old and New Testaments.<a name="anc_xxxiv_20" id="anc_xxxiv_20"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxiv_20"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXIV_20]</span></a> Perfumes were then poured on their -heads,<a name="anc_xxxiv_21" id="anc_xxxiv_21"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxiv_21"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXIV_21]</span></a> as among the Jews,<a name="anc_xxxiv_22" id="anc_xxxiv_22"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxiv_22"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXIV_22]</span></a> and wreaths of flowers -were offered them.<a name="anc_xxxiv_23" id="anc_xxxiv_23"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxiv_23"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXIV_23]</span></a></p> - -<p>It was at this solemn moment that the guests turned their attention to -the election of the king of the banquet, whose grave functions consisted -in regulating the number of cups that each one was expected to empty -during the repast.<a name="anc_xxxiv_24" id="anc_xxxiv_24"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxiv_24"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXIV_24]</span></a></p> - -<p>Among the Anglo-Saxons, he who wished to drink asked the nearest person -to pledge him. The latter replied affirmatively, and immediately armed -himself with his knife or his sword to protect the other while he -emptied his cup. The death of Edward the Martyr, it is said, gave rise -to this custom. Elfrida, his mother-in-law, caused him to be basely -assassinated from behind whilst he was drinking.<a name="anc_xxxiv_25" id="anc_xxxiv_25"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxiv_25"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXIV_25]</span></a></p> - -<p>“The following,” says Strutt, “according to ancient historians, is the -manner in which Rowena, daughter or niece of Hengist, drank to the -health of Vortigern, King of the Britons. She entered the -banqueting-hall where the prince was with his guests, and, making a low -curtsey, she said: ‘To your health, my lord and king.’ Then, having put -the cup to her lips, she presented it on her knees to Vortigern, who -took it and emptied it, after having replied: ‘I drink to your -health.’ ”<a name="anc_xxxiv_26" id="anc_xxxiv_26"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxiv_26"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXIV_26]</span></a></p> - -<p>We find in the works of Pasquier an affecting anecdote of the -unfortunate Queen of Scotland, Mary Stuart: “On the eve of her death,” -says he, “towards the end of the supper, she drank to all her -attendants, commanding them to pledge her; the which obeying, and -mingling their tears with their wine, they drank to their mistress.”</p> - -<p>Divers spectacles, of which we shall have occasion to speak hereafter, -occupied the leisure of the guests during the interval necessary to -remove the remains of one course and serve the next. These -representations and amusements, of which they never tired in the middle -ages, received from our ancestors, in France, the name of <i>entre-mets</i>; -a designation much more true and just than the modern acceptation -imposed on the word—anything served between the roast and the dessert.</p> - -<p>The <i>entre-mets</i> were interludes, pantomimes, concerts, and even -melodramas performed between each course. So that a piece which in our -days attracts crowds to one or other of the theatres, would have been -then a little <i>entre-met</i>, or a cold side-dish (<i>hors-d’œuvre</i>).</p> - -<p>In 1287, at the marriage of Robert, son of Saint-Louis, with Machault, -Countess of Artois, very singular spectacles were given between<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_384" id="page_384"></a>{384}</span> each -course of the banquet. A horseman crossed the hall by making his horse -walk on a thick cord, extended above the heads of the guests. At the -four corners of the table were musicians seated on oxen; and monkeys, -mounted on goats, seemed to play the harp.<a name="anc_xxxiv_27" id="anc_xxxiv_27"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxiv_27"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXIV_27]</span></a></p> - -<p>A droll custom prevailed at the court of the Frank kings. St. Germier -having come to solicit some favour from the King of the Franks, Clovis, -that haughty Sicamber received the bishop with kindness, and had an -excellent dinner served for him. The holy bishop took leave of the king -after the banquet, and the king, who sometimes piqued himself upon his -politeness, pulled out a hair, according to the custom of the time, and -offered it to his guest. Each of the courtiers hastened, in his turn, to -imitate the benevolent monarch, and the virtuous prelate returned to his -diocese enchanted with the reception he had met with at the -court.<a name="anc_xxxiv_28" id="anc_xxxiv_28"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxiv_28"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXIV_28]</span></a></p> - -<p>Among other amusements prepared for Queen Elizabeth, during her sojourn -at the celebrated castle of Kenilworth, “There was,” says Laneham, “an -Italian juggler who performed feats of strength and leaps, and cut such -capers with so much suppleness and ease, that I began to ask myself -whether it were a man or a sprite. Indeed I know not what to say of that -comical fellow,” adds the artless chronicler; “I suppose his back must -resemble that of a lamprey—it had no bone.”<a name="anc_xxxiv_29" id="anc_xxxiv_29"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxiv_29"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXIV_29]</span></a></p> - -<p>In England, during the middle ages, the courts of princes and the -castles of the great were crowded with visitors, who were always -received with sumptuous hospitality. The pomp displayed by the lords was -truly extraordinary, and it is difficult to understand how their -fortunes could suffice for it. They had their privy-counsellors, -treasurers, secretaries, chaplains, heralds, pursuivants-at-arms, pages, -guards, trumpeters—in a word, all the officers, all the servants, with -which royalty itself is surrounded. And besides this numerous domestic -establishment, there were troops of minstrels, clowns, jugglers, -strolling players, rope-dancers, &c., lodged there at the great -banqueting times. Each of the apartments open to the guests presented -spectacles in harmony with the gross taste of the epoch. It was a -marvellous confusion, a prodigious chaos, in which the ear was struck at -once with the sound of dishes, of cups clashing one against another, of -harmonious music, with the bustle of the dance, the notes of the song, -pasquinades, somersaults, and everywhere the most boisterous laughter. -The face of decency alone was slightly veiled.<a name="anc_xxxiv_30" id="anc_xxxiv_30"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxiv_30"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXIV_30]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_385" id="page_385"></a>{385}</span></p> - -<p>Sometimes the term <i>entre-mets</i> was also applied to decorations, which -were paraded through the banqueting hall, and which represented cities, -castles, and gardens, with fountains, whence flowed all kinds of -liquors. At the dinner which Charles V. of France gave to the Emperor -Charles IV. there was a grand spectacle, or <i>entre-met</i>. A vessel -appeared with its masts, sails, and rigging; it advanced into the middle -of the hall, by means of a machine concealed from the view of all. A -moment after there appeared the city of Jerusalem; its towers covered -with Saracens. The vessel approached it, and the city was taken by the -Christian knights who manned the vessel.<a name="anc_xxxiv_31" id="anc_xxxiv_31"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxiv_31"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXIV_31]</span></a></p> - -<p>Among the Egyptians a funereal idea was made the means of rousing the -erewhile buoyant spirits of the guests at the end of a repast. A servant -entered carrying a skeleton, or the representation of a mummy, which he -took slowly round the dining-room. He then approached the guests, and -said: “Eat, drink, amuse yourselves to-day; to-morrow you -die.”<a name="anc_xxxiv_32" id="anc_xxxiv_32"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxiv_32"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXIV_32]</span></a></p> - -<p>Greece, and Rome in particular, adopted this lugubrious emblem of the -rapid flight of time and pleasure. This sepulchral image hurried them on -in the enjoyment of the present: it never revealed to paganism a “hope -full of immortality.”<a name="anc_xxxiv_33" id="anc_xxxiv_33"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxiv_33"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXIV_33]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_386" id="page_386"></a>{386}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="XXXV" id="XXXV"></a>XXXV.<br /><br /> -A ROMAN SUPPER.</h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">Two</span> lustres had passed since the world obeyed Domitius Nero, son of -Agrippina. The Romans, a herd of vile slaves, docile adulators of the -infamous Cæsar, had already celebrated nine anniversaries of his happy -accession to the empire, and the Flamen of Jupiter solemnly thanked the -gods at each of these epochs for all the benefits that the well-beloved -monarch had unceasingly lavished on the earth.</p> - -<p>Few princes, it is true, ever equalled Nero. He and his mother had -poisoned Junius Silanus, the pro-consul of Asia; subsequently the young -emperor made away with Agrippina, and the senate applauded that horrible -crime, which was only the prelude to outrageous enterprises which -astonish the historian who narrates them.</p> - -<p>The Flamen was, indeed, bound to offer up solemn thanksgivings to -Jupiter for having hitherto restrained the crowned monster from the -commission of evil which afterwards marked his flagitious career.</p> - -<p>It was the 64th year of the Christian era. The emperor had passed some -time at Naples, whence it was thought he would go into Greece; but -suddenly changing his project, he returned to the capital of the world, -to prepare, it was said, a spectacle of unheard-of splendour, and such -as Nero alone could conceive.</p> - -<p>One of his ancient freed-men, Caius Domitius Seba, resolved to celebrate -the return to Rome, and the tenth anniversary of the reign of his -master, who was now become his patron and friend. That man possessed -immense riches, a formidable credit at court, and an insolence which had -struck so much terror into the souls of the proudest families of the -empire, that they had long since humbled themselves before him.</p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="pl_XXIX" id="pl_XXIX"></a> -<a href="images/ill_pg_386_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_386_sml.jpg" width="599" height="435" alt="Image not available: Pl. 29. - -ROMAN BANQUET IN THE YEAR 64." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">Pl. 29.<br /> - -ROMAN BANQUET IN THE YEAR 64.</span> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_387" id="page_387"></a>{387}</span></p> - -<p>So that it was no sooner whispered among the Roman aristocracy that the -magnificent Seba intended to give a banquet, than one and all became -anxious to be numbered with the guests of Cæsar’s favourite.</p> - -<p>However, days past, the time for the nocturnal festival approached, and -the Invitor had not made his appearance.</p> - -<p>Among the Hebrews, nothing was more simple and unsophisticated than an -invitation to dinner;<a name="anc_xxxv_1" id="anc_xxxv_1"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_1"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_1]</span></a> but, with the Romans, etiquette required -that the amphitryon should send one of his servants to each person who -was to participate in his pompous hospitality. This servant, who was -generally a freed-man, went from house to house, and indicated, with -exquisite politeness, the day and precise hour of the banquet.<a name="anc_xxxv_2" id="anc_xxxv_2"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_2"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_2]</span></a></p> - -<p>Seba’s Invitor was at last announced to the two consuls of the year, -Lecanius Bassus and Licinius Crassus, who accepted with tender gratitude -the distinguished honour which the enfranchised slave deigned to confer -upon them.</p> - -<p>After them the same favour was received with the same gratitude by the -Agrippas, the Ancuses, the Cossuses, the Drususes, and all those who -were the most noble, powerful, and proud in Rome.</p> - -<p>The next day, about two o’clock in the afternoon (the repast was to -begin at six o’clock), an unusual movement reigned in the Palatine -baths, and those of Daphnis, near the Sacred Way. The <i>mediastini</i> kept -up a steady fire under the coppers; the <i>capsarii</i> folded with care the -clothes of the bathers; the <i>unguentarii</i> sold their oils and unguents; -and the <i>fricatores</i>, armed with the <i>strigil</i>—a sort of wooden, iron, -or horn spoon—rubbed and scraped the skin before the <i>tractatores</i> came -gently to manipulate the joints, and skilfully shampoo the body, which -gained by this operation more elasticity and suppleness.<a name="anc_xxxv_3" id="anc_xxxv_3"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_3"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_3]</span></a></p> - -<p>The upper classes of the Romans never sat down to table until they had -undergone all these preliminaries of minute cleanliness.<a name="anc_xxxv_4" id="anc_xxxv_4"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_4"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_4]</span></a></p> - -<p>The future guests return home, after the bath, to employ the skill of -the barbers (<i>tonsores</i>), who are in waiting to give more grace to the -hair, and remove, with the aid of tweezers and pumice, the first silvery -indications of the lapse of years, which, though incessantly effaced, -still re-appeared.<a name="anc_xxxv_5" id="anc_xxxv_5"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_5"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_5]</span></a></p> - -<p>A more serious occupation succeeded. Epicureans should never neglect -their teeth—particularly at the approach of a banquet. Nor did the -ingenious gastronomy of the first century of our era neglect to invent -tooth-powder, which cleaned the enamel without injuring it, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_388" id="page_388"></a>{388}</span> -fortified the gums—those fortresses of mastication. Some persons made -use of substances which no one would adopt in the present day, because -our delicacy revolts against them.<a name="anc_xxxv_6" id="anc_xxxv_6"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_6"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_6]</span></a> But preparations less -offensive were employed, and men of good taste, as well as fashionable -ladies, extolled ox-gall, goats’ milk, the ash of stags’ horns, of pigs’ -hoofs, and of egg-shells.<a name="anc_xxxv_7" id="anc_xxxv_7"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_7"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_7]</span></a></p> - -<p>Thus were the teeth equipped, as the comic Plautus has it;<a name="anc_xxxv_8" id="anc_xxxv_8"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_8"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_8]</span></a> or, -rather, thus were they prepared to undergo the labour required of them.</p> - -<p>Those who had had the misfortune to lose some of those powerful -gastrophagic auxiliaries substituted false ones of ivory, which art -found means to render absolutely similar to their neighbours. The eye -was deceived: what more could be required?<a name="anc_xxxv_9" id="anc_xxxv_9"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_9"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_9]</span></a></p> - -<p>But the clepsydræ<a name="anc_xxxv_10" id="anc_xxxv_10"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_10"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_10]</span></a> and the celebrated clock of the field of -Mars<a name="anc_xxxv_11" id="anc_xxxv_11"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_11"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_11]</span></a> announce that it is time to put on the white, light robe, -a little longer than the pallium of the Greeks, and to which the Latins -have given the names of <i>vestis cœnatoria</i>, <i>vestis triclinaria</i>, -<i>vestis convivalis</i>.<a name="anc_xxxv_12" id="anc_xxxv_12"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_12"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_12]</span></a> This last part of their toilet finished, -the guests set out for the magnificent abode of their host, preceded by -a few slaves, and followed by their shadows—those hungry hangers-on of -whom mention has already been made, and who strive to obtain, on the -road, a smile or a word by dint of cringing obsequiousness.</p> - -<p>Arrived at the <i>atrium</i>, the crowd of Roman nobles are conducted into -the interior of the house by the parasites of Seba. The proud freed-man -disturbed himself for nobody; but, like the opulent Greeks, whom he -aped, he left to these ignoble familiars the care of replacing him in -the honours of his palace.<a name="anc_xxxv_13" id="anc_xxxv_13"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_13"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_13]</span></a></p> - -<p>They enter an immense hall, decorated with unheard-of luxury, lighted by -lustres,<a name="anc_xxxv_14" id="anc_xxxv_14"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_14"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_14]</span></a> and round which are several ranks of seats, not unlike -the folding-stools and arm-chairs we meet with in the present day in the -most elegant <i>boudoirs</i>.<a name="anc_xxxv_15" id="anc_xxxv_15"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_15"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_15]</span></a> The guests seat themselves, and anon -Egyptian slaves approach with perfumed snow-water, which flows from -golden vases of the most graceful forms, and cools the hands of senators -and Roman knights,<a name="anc_xxxv_16" id="anc_xxxv_16"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_16"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_16]</span></a> whilst other servants disincumber them of -their patrician shoes, the end of which represents a crescent.<a name="anc_xxxv_17" id="anc_xxxv_17"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_17"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_17]</span></a> -The feet then received a similar ablution, and fresh slaves, skilful -orthopœdists, accomplish in a twinkling the delicate toilet of these -extremities,<a name="anc_xxxv_18" id="anc_xxxv_18"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_18"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_18]</span></a> and imprison them again in elegant and commodious -sandals, fastened by ribands which cross on the top.<a name="anc_xxxv_19" id="anc_xxxv_19"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_19"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_19]</span></a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_389" id="page_389"></a>{389}</span></p> - -<p>Here and there a few persons are remarked who still wear their togas, -having doubtless forgotten to substitute the banqueting dress. So soon -as the major-domo perceives them he makes a sign to some youths clothed -in white tunics, who hasten to present to each of these guests a -<i>synthesis</i>, or short woollen vestment of different colours,<a name="anc_xxxv_20" id="anc_xxxv_20"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_20"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_20]</span></a> -which envelopes the whole body, but leaves the shoulders and breast -uncovered if the wearer desire it.<a name="anc_xxxv_21" id="anc_xxxv_21"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_21"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_21]</span></a></p> - -<p>These indispensable preliminaries being terminated, the seats -disappeared, and the guests stood waiting for the freed-man, Seba, who -speedily entered accompanied by the two consuls, for whom places of -honour had been reserved on couches beside their pompous amphitryon. The -latter deigned to address a few words of welcome to his noble company, -and each one stretched himself on his couch of gold and purple. The -fourth couch was given up to the parasites and shadows.<a name="anc_xxxv_22" id="anc_xxxv_22"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_22"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_22]</span></a></p> - -<p>Meanwhile, slaves were burning precious perfumes in golden vases -(<i>acerræ</i>), and young children were pouring on the hair of the guests -odoriferous essences, which filled the banqueting hall with balmy -fragrance. Rome had borrowed this custom from the east.<a name="anc_xxxv_23" id="anc_xxxv_23"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_23"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_23]</span></a></p> - -<p>The golden panelling of the hall shone with dazzling brightness as it -reflected a torrent of light from the crystal candelabra,<a name="anc_xxxv_24" id="anc_xxxv_24"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_24"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_24]</span></a> and -the melodious sounds of the hydraulic organ<a name="anc_xxxv_25" id="anc_xxxv_25"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_25"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_25]</span></a> announced the -commencement of the banquet.<a name="anc_xxxv_26" id="anc_xxxv_26"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_26"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_26]</span></a></p> - -<p>At this signal, servants, richly dressed, place within the circle formed -by the couches lemon-wood tables of inestimable price,<a name="anc_xxxv_27" id="anc_xxxv_27"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_27"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_27]</span></a> which -they immediately cover with a rich tissue of gold and silk. That done, -sylph-like hands spread them over with a profusion of the rarest flowers -and rose leaves.<a name="anc_xxxv_28" id="anc_xxxv_28"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_28"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_28]</span></a></p> - -<p>Musicians (<i>symphoniaci</i>) then occupy a kind of orchestra or platform, -raised at one of the extremities of the hall,<a name="anc_xxxv_29" id="anc_xxxv_29"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_29"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_29]</span></a> among whom the -flute and harp players are to be particularly remarked.<a name="anc_xxxv_30" id="anc_xxxv_30"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_30"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_30]</span></a> The -former constitute, among the Romans, a special body dubbed with the name -of <i>College</i>, and they have the exclusive right to attend banquets and -enliven the pomp of ceremonies.<a name="anc_xxxv_31" id="anc_xxxv_31"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_31"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_31]</span></a></p> - -<p>These musicians execute a slow, dulcet melody while the slaves are -placing on the tables the statues of some of the principal -gods,<a name="anc_xxxv_32" id="anc_xxxv_32"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_32"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_32]</span></a> together with that of the divine Nero, whom a -pusillanimous flattery ranks already with the immortals. At this moment -they also arrange here and there the salt-cellars,<a name="anc_xxxv_33" id="anc_xxxv_33"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_33"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_33]</span></a> while the -more meditative of the guests invoke<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_390" id="page_390"></a>{390}</span> Jupiter, before they give -themselves up to the pleasures of the feast.<a name="anc_xxxv_34" id="anc_xxxv_34"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_34"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_34]</span></a> Hardly is this -short prayer finished when joyous cup-bearers distribute charming little -crystal cups,<a name="anc_xxxv_35" id="anc_xxxv_35"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_35"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_35]</span></a> which Æthiopian slaves<a name="anc_xxxv_36" id="anc_xxxv_36"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_36"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_36]</span></a> fill to the brim -with a generous, honeyed wine, drawn, in the first instance, from those -large pitchers which the Greeks have named <i>amphoræ</i>.</p> - -<p>Some drops of the exhilarating liquid are offered to the <i>Lares</i> -(household gods), by sprinkling it in their honour on the floor and the -table.<a name="anc_xxxv_37" id="anc_xxxv_37"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_37"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_37]</span></a> This pious libation precedes the entrance of the first -course (<i>antecœna</i>),<a name="anc_xxxv_38" id="anc_xxxv_38"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_38"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_38]</span></a> composed of the lightest and least -succulent kinds of viands, by means of which a generous host stimulates -the appetites of his guests, as a preparative for brilliant -exploits.<a name="anc_xxxv_39" id="anc_xxxv_39"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_39"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_39]</span></a></p> - -<p>Lettuces, olives, pomegranates, Damascus plums,<a name="anc_xxxv_40" id="anc_xxxv_40"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_40"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_40]</span></a> tastefully -arranged on silver dishes,<a name="anc_xxxv_41" id="anc_xxxv_41"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_41"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_41]</span></a> serve to encircle dormice, prepared -with honey and poppy juice,<a name="anc_xxxv_42" id="anc_xxxv_42"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_42"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_42]</span></a> forcemeat balls of crab, lobster, -or cray-fish, prepared with pepper, cummin, and benzoin root.<a name="anc_xxxv_43" id="anc_xxxv_43"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_43"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_43]</span></a> A -little further, champignon and egg sausages, prepared with -garum,<a name="anc_xxxv_44" id="anc_xxxv_44"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_44"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_44]</span></a> are placed by the side of pheasant sausages, a delicious -mixture of the fat of that bird, chopped very small, and mixed with -pepper, gravy, and sweet sun-made wine, to which a small quantity of -hydrogarum is added.<a name="anc_xxxv_45" id="anc_xxxv_45"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_45"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_45]</span></a> Tempting as these delicate viands may be, -the practised epicureans seem to have a decided preference for peacocks’ -eggs, which they open with spoons. These eggs, a master-piece of the -culinary artist, who presides over Seba’s stoves, are composed of a fine -perfumed paste, and contain, each one, a fat, roasted, ortolan -surrounded with yolk of egg, and seasoned with pepper.<a name="anc_xxxv_46" id="anc_xxxv_46"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_46"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_46]</span></a></p> - -<p>We will not go through the list of all the dishes which composed the -<i>antecœna</i>. The nomenclature was offered, according to custom, to the -guests of the rich freed-man, but the reader would doubtless think it a -little tiresome. We must, however, inform him, that the true -gastronomists—and there were many at that banquet—did no more than -give note of preparation to their appetite, by plying it with pickled -radishes,<a name="anc_xxxv_47" id="anc_xxxv_47"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_47"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_47]</span></a> some few grasshoppers of a particular species, fried -with garum,<a name="anc_xxxv_48" id="anc_xxxv_48"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_48"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_48]</span></a> grey peas, and olives fresh from their -brine.<a name="anc_xxxv_49" id="anc_xxxv_49"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_49"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_49]</span></a></p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="c">DESCRIPTION OF <a href="#pl_XXX">PLATE No. XXX.</a></p> - -<p>No. 1. A Greek Etruscan vase, or amphora, of terra cotta, for wine -and water, commonly placed on the dinner table.—<span class="smcap">Hamilton.</span></p> - -<p>No. 2. A Greek terra cotta vase, for a particular wine.—<span class="smcap">Caylus.</span></p> - -<p>No. 3. Etruscan terra cotta vase, to hold wine on the -table.—<span class="smcap">Caylus.</span></p> - -<p>No. 4. A glass amphora, or vase, of large dimensions, for Falernian -wine.</p> - -<p>All found at Herculaneum.—<span class="smcap">Saint-Non.</span></p></div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="pl_XXX" id="pl_XXX"></a> -<a href="images/ill_pg_390_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_390_sml.jpg" width="273" height="448" alt="Image not available: Pl. 30." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">Pl. 30.</span> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="pl_XXX-a" id="pl_XXX-a"></a> -<a href="images/ill_pg_391_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_391_sml.jpg" width="379" height="193" alt="Image not available: Pl. 30.A" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">Pl. 30.A</span> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_391" id="page_391"></a>{391}</span></p> - -<p>The first course was removed to the sound of music.<a name="anc_xxxv_50" id="anc_xxxv_50"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_50"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_50]</span></a> Now came -chased silver cups, much larger than those of crystal<a name="anc_xxxv_51" id="anc_xxxv_51"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_51"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_51]</span></a>—no doubt -because thirst is excited by drinking. Amphoræ of a secular wine were -ranged by the major-domo on the mosaic flooring of the hall, at some -distance from the triclinium, and they proceeded, by the invitation of -the consuls, to the choice of the <i>symposiarch</i> (or master of the -banquet), upon whom devolved the duty of regulating how often any person -was to drink, and of preventing the guests, in the best manner he could, -from yielding too easily to bacchic provocations, which commonly led to -unseemly gaiety and the loss of reason.<a name="anc_xxxv_52" id="anc_xxxv_52"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_52"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_52]</span></a></p> - -<p>This sort magiric magistracy was obtained by lot, or the unanimous call -for a personage worthy of such a distinction.<a name="anc_xxxv_53" id="anc_xxxv_53"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_53"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_53]</span></a> That memorable -evening every voice named the senator Drusillus, one of the most -determined drinkers of the Roman aristocracy. Drusillus smiled, snapped -his fingers,<a name="anc_xxxv_54" id="anc_xxxv_54"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_54"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_54]</span></a> and, by the order of his master, thus intimated, a -slave, who was standing behind him, filled a golden crater<a name="anc_c" id="anc_c"></a><a href="#footnote_c"><span class="fnanchor">[C]</span></a> with wine, -and presented it to the symposiarch.</p> - -<p>Thereupon, the latter, slightly raising his head from the downy cushions -on which it rested, and supporting it from the left elbow,<a name="anc_xxxv_55" id="anc_xxxv_55"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_55"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_55]</span></a> -makes a graceful bow to the amphitryon, the consuls, and the rest of the -assembly. Then, with a stentorian voice: “Slaves,” he cried, “bring -wreaths of flowers.<a name="anc_xxxv_56" id="anc_xxxv_56"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_56"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_56]</span></a> Fugitive images of the spring and of -pleasure, they shall bind our brows.<a name="anc_xxxv_57" id="anc_xxxv_57"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_57"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_57]</span></a> At the same time let -garlands adorn our craters, in which the cherished liquor of the son of -Semele sparkles;<a name="anc_xxxv_58" id="anc_xxxv_58"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_58"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_58]</span></a> and let us bestow no thought, during the fleet -joys of the banquet, on the uncertain and fatal hour when Atropos shall -pronounce our doom.”</p> - -<p>This speech, slightly impregnated with the epicurean philosophy so much -in fashion during the reign of Nero, had at least the merit of a -praiseworthy conciseness. Nor did it fail to attract applause from the -auditors, whose brows and cups were speedily adorned with wreaths of -roses, which young boys, clothed in white tunics, arranged with -marvellous art.</p> - -<p>The slight rustling of the flowers was soon drowned by the shrill noise -of the trumpets which announced the second course. A flattering buzz -welcomed this profusion of viands, which encumbered the tables, and -well-nigh crushed them with their weight. There were the -peacock,<a name="anc_xxxv_59" id="anc_xxxv_59"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_59"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_59]</span></a> the duck, whose breast and head are so much -coveted; -<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_392" id="page_392"></a>{392}</span> -capons’ livers,<a name="anc_xxxv_60" id="anc_xxxv_60"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_60"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_60]</span></a> peppered -becaficoes,<a name="anc_xxxv_61" id="anc_xxxv_61"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_61"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_61]</span></a> grouse, the turtle-dove, the phenicopter,<a name="anc_xxxv_62" id="anc_xxxv_62"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_62"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_62]</span></a> -and an infinite number of rare birds, the costly tribute that Europe, -Asia, and Africa, exchanged against the gold of the prodigal Seba. Other -gold and silver dishes contained these inestimable fishes which Roman -luxury brought so much into fashion; the scarus, or parrot fish, -sturgeons, turbots, mullets, and those numerous inhabitants of every sea -with which the tanks were stocked, to supply the kitchen of the -freed-slave.</p> - -<p>Moreover, there were wild boars <i>à la Troyenne</i>,<a name="anc_xxxv_63" id="anc_xxxv_63"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_63"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_63]</span></a> ranged in the -centre of the table, in silver basins of a prodigious value; stuffed -pigs, quarters of stag and roebuck, loins of beef, kidneys surrounded -with African figs,<a name="anc_xxxv_64" id="anc_xxxv_64"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_64"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_64]</span></a> sows’ paps prepared with milk,<a name="anc_xxxv_65" id="anc_xxxv_65"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_65"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_65]</span></a> -sows’ flank,<a name="anc_xxxv_66" id="anc_xxxv_66"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_66"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_66]</span></a> and some pieces of Gallic bacon,<a name="anc_xxxv_67" id="anc_xxxv_67"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_67"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_67]</span></a> which -certain gluttons loved to associate with a piece of succulent venison.</p> - -<p>While the carvers were cutting up the meats with incredible address, to -the sound of a light but animated music, Numidian slaves filled the cups -from small leathern bottles with old Greek wine,<a name="anc_xxxv_68" id="anc_xxxv_68"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_68"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_68]</span></a> a servant -carried bread round the tables in a silver basket,<a name="anc_xxxv_69" id="anc_xxxv_69"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_69"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_69]</span></a> and others -ventilated the apartment,<a name="anc_xxxv_70" id="anc_xxxv_70"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_70"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_70]</span></a> or offered the guests warm and iced -water.<a name="anc_xxxv_71" id="anc_xxxv_71"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_71"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_71]</span></a></p> - -<p>In every direction trays circulated, covered with divers kinds of -meats,<a name="anc_xxxv_72" id="anc_xxxv_72"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_72"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_72]</span></a> which they took care to humect with peppered -garum,<a name="anc_xxxv_73" id="anc_xxxv_73"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_73"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_73]</span></a> that strange condiment, which the freed-slave procured -from Spain at a price equal to its weight in gold.</p> - -<p>Suddenly the symposiarch commands silence: the musicians obey—the -slaves are motionless.</p> - -<p>“Let us drain our cups,” said he, “in honour of Cæsar. Let us celebrate -the tenth anniversary of his glorious reign, and his happy return to the -metropolis of the world. Let us drink, senators and knights, as many -craters as there are letters in the cherished name of the -emperor.”<a name="anc_xxxv_74" id="anc_xxxv_74"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_74"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_74]</span></a></p> - -<p>Sense and reason must have succumbed, had the patrician assembly toasted -Caius Lucius Domitius Nero: it would have been constructive treason not -to empty twenty-three cups; but they limited themselves to four, which -represented the last of these names.</p> - -<p>Joy unrestrained floated with the fumy wine, furnished from large</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="c">DESCRIPTION OF <a href="#pl_XXXI">PLATE No. XXXI.</a></p> - -<p>No. 1. Curious silver dish, with Etruscan letters engraved around -the head of Medusa. Petronius speaks of two silver dishes, upon -which were engraved the name of Trimalcion, and the weight of each -dish.—<span class="smcap">Athen</span>.; <span class="smcap">Stuart</span>.</p> - -<p>Nos. 2 and 3. Silver dishes.—<span class="smcap">Gorrie</span>, “<i>Etruscan Mus</i>.”</p></div> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="pl_XXXI" id="pl_XXXI"></a> -<a href="images/ill_pg_392_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_392_sml.jpg" width="272" height="443" alt="Image not available: Pl. 31." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">Pl. 31.</span> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_393" id="page_393"></a>{393}</span></p> - -<p class="nind">glass amphoræ, on which were these words: “Falernian wine of a hundred -leaves, made under the consulship of Opimius.”<a name="anc_xxxv_75" id="anc_xxxv_75"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_75"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_75]</span></a> -<a name="anc_d" id="anc_d"></a><a href="#footnote_d"><span class="fnanchor">[D]</span></a> The consuls -and the Roman nobles almost forgot, in the voluptuousness of the -splendid repast, that the executioner of Britannicus and Burrhus, the -crowned tiger, was doubtless thinking at that very moment of taking some -of the heads then present. A funereal spectacle soon aroused their -dormant fears.</p> - -<p>An officer of the palace presented himself at the door of the banqueting -hall. He advanced slowly, followed by two slaves, who laid on the table -an object covered with a winding-sheet. “Pressing occupations,” said the -imperial messenger, “prevent Cæsar from sharing with you the hospitality -of Seba; but he thinks of you, and sends you a testimony of his -remembrance.”</p> - -<p>“Long live Cæsar!” cry the consuls, the freed-slave, and some few -trembling voices. The officer retires. The veil which shrouds Nero’s -present from every eye is removed, and all perceive a silver skeleton, -of terrifying truthfulness, and which, by its admirable mechanism, -proclaims artist to be one of those Greeks who have come to Rome to seek -fortune and celebrity.<a name="anc_xxxv_76" id="anc_xxxv_76"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_76"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_76]</span></a></p> - -<p>This episode engrossed the thoughts of the greater part of the guests, -and the old senator, Lucius Vafra, could not help saying, with a sigh, -to his neighbour, Virginius Rufus, one of the consuls of the preceding -year: “Fear the Greeks: fear this disastrous present!”<a name="anc_xxxv_77" id="anc_xxxv_77"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_77"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_77]</span></a></p> - -<p>But the hot wine which was being served,<a name="anc_xxxv_78" id="anc_xxxv_78"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_78"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_78]</span></a> and the healths which -succeeded without interruption, drove the sinistrous presage from their -minds; and, moreover, the present of the emperor was nowise contrary to -the manners of the epoch, and the thought of death would only have -enlivened the repast, if it had been presented by any other than Nero.</p> - -<p>At first healths were drunk in the Greek fashion,—that is, beginning by -the most distinguished personages, he who drank bowed and said: “I wish -you every kind of prosperity;” or simply: “I salute you.” In pronouncing -these words, he who drank the health took only a part of the wine -contained in the cup, and sent the remainder to the guest he had just -designated.<a name="anc_xxxv_79" id="anc_xxxv_79"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_79"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_79]</span></a></p> - -<p>Many craters were then emptied in honour of the mistress of the house -(<i>dominæ</i>); neither were the illustrious dead nor absent friends -forgotten. The formula was nearly the same for all: “To your healths,”<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_394" id="page_394"></a>{394}</span> -said the symposiarch, “to our own, to that also of the friend whom we -cherish.”<a name="anc_xxxv_80" id="anc_xxxv_80"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_80"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_80]</span></a></p> - -<p>Sometimes Drusillus, still fascinated with that dulcet poetry of the -Greeks with which, when young, he had stored his mind, would take up the -harmonious cadences of Horace, and thus personate, as it were, those -divine chanters of Attica who have immortalised themselves by -celebrating love, wine, and pleasure.</p> - -<p>One of his extempore strains, while sipping the sparkling liquor from -his cup, was:—</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">This dream of bliss maintain, prolong these happy hours,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">O, all-enchanting wines! perfumed with flowers<br /></span> -<span class="i5">Which Cos and Cyprus rear;<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Let nothing ever change this soul-felt, rich delight;<br /></span> -<span class="i0">For I would say, when parting for the realms of night,<br /></span> -<span class="i5">I never knew a tear.<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>This sensual philosophy found numberless echoes in that vainglorious -Rome, who exhausted her disdain, outrage, and punishments on the (so -called) new fantastic folly that the Nazarenes were endeavouring to -introduce. A few years more, and their doctrine will subjugate the -universe!</p> - -<p>Time passed rapidly, and the meats, divided into equal portions, were -served to the guests, who frequently did not touch them, but gave their -share to their servants, or sent it home.<a name="anc_xxxv_81" id="anc_xxxv_81"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_81"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_81]</span></a></p> - -<p>So soon as the major-domo perceived that appetite began to flag, he -ordered the whole to be cleared, and the dessert, spread on ivory -tables,<a name="anc_xxxv_82" id="anc_xxxv_82"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_82"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_82]</span></a> to be substituted for the more substantial comestibles, -with which the guests were satiated.</p> - -<p>Exquisite drinks, artificial wines, delicate and light -aliments,<a name="anc_xxxv_83" id="anc_xxxv_83"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_83"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_83]</span></a> still came to titillate the palate and the burthened -stomach—pears, apples, walnuts, dried-figs, grapes;<a name="anc_xxxv_84" id="anc_xxxv_84"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_84"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_84]</span></a> a thousand -different kinds of raw, cooked, and preserved fruits; tarts, cakes, and -those incredible delicacies which the Latins designated by the -collective generic term <i>bellaria</i>, wooed the epicurean—if we may be -allowed the expression—with their mild, material, dangerous, and -irresistible eloquence.</p> - -<p>Some one proposed to replace the half-faded flowers by Egyptian wreaths, -and every brow was soon bound with garlands of roses and myrtle, -interspersed with little birds, which, by their fluttering and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_395" id="page_395"></a>{395}</span> -chirping, soon restored the drowsy company to that animation which -seemed to wane.<a name="anc_xxxv_85" id="anc_xxxv_85"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_85"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_85]</span></a></p> - -<p>Then began the amusements of the evening.</p> - -<p>A troop of strolling players were admired for their agility and -suppleness. Some rolled round a cord like a wheel which turns on its -axle; they hung by the neck, by one foot, and varied these perilous -exercises in a thousand different ways. Others slid down a cord, lying -on the stomach, with their arms and legs extended. Some revolved as they -ran along a descending cord. Some, in a word, performed feats of -strength and address on the horizontal rope which were truly -incomprehensible, and at an elevation from the flooring which would have -rendered a fall fatal.<a name="anc_xxxv_86" id="anc_xxxv_86"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_86"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_86]</span></a></p> - -<p>To these acrobats succeeded prestigiators, who appeared to receive a -peculiar degree of attention. One placed under cups a certain number of -shells, dry peas, or little balls, and he caused them to disappear and -re-appear at will.<a name="anc_xxxv_87" id="anc_xxxv_87"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_87"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_87]</span></a> The spectators strained their eyes without -being able to comprehend anything. Another of these mountebanks wrote or -read very distinctly while whirling rapidly round.<a name="anc_xxxv_88" id="anc_xxxv_88"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_88"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_88]</span></a> Some vomited -flames from the mouth, or walked, head downwards, on their hands, and -beat with their feet the movements of the most agile dancers.<a name="anc_xxxv_89" id="anc_xxxv_89"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_89"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_89]</span></a> -Then a woman appeared, holding in her hand twelve bronze hoops, with -several little rings of the same metal, which rolled round them. She -danced gracefully, throwing and successively catching the twelve hoops, -without ever allowing any of the rings to fall.<a name="anc_xxxv_90" id="anc_xxxv_90"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_90"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_90]</span></a> After that, -another juggler rushed, with his breast uncovered, into the midst of a -forest of naked swords. Every one thought him to be covered with wounds, -but he re-appeared, with a smile on his countenance, whole and -sound.<a name="anc_xxxv_91" id="anc_xxxv_91"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_91"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_91]</span></a></p> - -<p>These feats were followed by an interlude, in which the parts were -amusingly sustained by marionettes. The Greeks knew this childish -pastime,<a name="anc_xxxv_92" id="anc_xxxv_92"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_92"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_92]</span></a> and Rome did not disdain it.<a name="anc_xxxv_93" id="anc_xxxv_93"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_93"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_93]</span></a> These little -bronze and ivory figures<a name="anc_xxxv_94" id="anc_xxxv_94"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_94"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_94]</span></a> played some comic scenes tolerably -well, and obtained the applauses of grave senators, who more than once -forgot their senility as they contemplated the grotesque pantomime.</p> - -<p>The only thing now wanting to render Seba’s supper a worthy specimen of -nocturnal Roman feasts was, to produce before the guests one of those -spectacles which outrage morals and humanity. Nero’s freed-man had been -too well tutored to refuse them this diversion. Young Syrians,<a name="anc_xxxv_95" id="anc_xxxv_95"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_95"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_95]</span></a> -or bewitching Spanish girls,<a name="anc_xxxv_96" id="anc_xxxv_96"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_96"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_96]</span></a> went through lascivious -dances,<a name="anc_xxxv_97" id="anc_xxxv_97"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_97"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_97]</span></a> which<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_396" id="page_396"></a>{396}</span> raised no blush on the brow of rigid -magistrates, who forgot, in the abode of the vile slave, the respect due -to their age and dignity.</p> - -<p>After the voluptuous scenes of the lewd Celtiberians, blood was -required: for they seem to have been formed by nature to take a strange -delight in sudden contrasts. Ten couples of gladiators, armed with -swords and bucklers, occupied a space assigned to them, and ten horrible -duels recreated the attentive assembly. For a long time nothing was -heard but the clash of arms; but the thirst for conquest animated those -ferocious combatants, and they rushed with loud cries on one another. -Blood flowed on all sides; the couches were dyed with it, and the white -robes of the guests were soon spotted. Some of the combatants fell, and -the rattles announced approaching death; others preserved, in their last -struggle, a funereal silence, or endeavoured to fix their teeth in the -flesh of their enemies standing erect beside them.<a name="anc_xxxv_98" id="anc_xxxv_98"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_98"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_98]</span></a> The -spectators, stupified with wine and good cheer, contemplated this -carnage with cold impassibility; they only roused from their torpor when -one of those men, happening to trip against a table, struck his head on -the ivory, and his antagonist, prompt as lightning, plunged his sword -into the throat of his foe, whence torrents of black, reeking blood -inundated the polished ivory, and flowed in long streams among the -fruits, cups, and flowers.</p> - -<p>The deed was applauded; servants washed the tables and the floor with -perfumed water, and these stirring scenes were soon forgotten. A last -cup was drunk to the good genius,<a name="anc_xxxv_99" id="anc_xxxv_99"></a><a href="#footnote-xxxv_99"><span class="fnanchor">[XXXV_99]</span></a> whose protection they invoked -before returning home.</p> - -<p>Meantime a stifling atmosphere pervades every part of the hall, and a -hollow noise, rumbling in the distance, excites at intervals in the -minds of the guests a sort of undefinable apprehension—the ordinary -presage of an unknown but imminent catastrophe. The consuls raise -themselves on their couches and listen; their host endeavours to calm -their fears; but at this moment a slave, panting for breath, rushes -towards Seba, and pronounces a few inarticulate words. “Fire!” cries the -anguished freed-man. “Where is the fire?” inquire all the terrified -guests, who have heard but this one sinistrous word. “Everywhere!” -replies the slave; “it has burst forth simultaneously in every part of -the city!” No one waits to hear more. Consuls, senators, knights, -musicians, and servants, jostle one another; and, abandoning those who -fall, arrive pell-mell at the atrium. The porter still chained, trembles -at his<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_397" id="page_397"></a>{397}</span> post; the flames already envelop the sumptuous edifice—the -entire street is one vast brazier! Rome burns, and will soon be a heap -of ruins and ashes! Flight is impossible—the flames intercept every -issue! * * * Nero has taken his measures well.</p> - -<p>We will not attempt to depict the mute but terrible despair of those -proud patricians, at bay in the midst of an ocean of fire, in which they -are fated ere long to perish. The wreaths of flowers which bind their -brows are already parched by the scorching breath of those roaring -flames, which engulf and consume everything as they sweep along. A thick -smoke begrimes the lustrous robes, whose graceful folds erewhile -displayed the exquisite urbanity of Seba’s guests, and which now exhibit -only a sad emblem of festive joys. The dread of death, and I know not -what strange anguish at this all-important moment, blanch those human -faces, to which the choicest wines of Greece and Italy had just given a -hue of purple. These men feel—instinct tells them—that life is theirs -no longer, and they have not the courage to die!</p> - -<p>The opulent freed-man calls to his slaves, and promises them their -liberty if they consent to risk their lives in an attempt to save his. -But the vile herd is already dispersed; the porter alone remains—for no -one has thought to liberate him—and he, in his impotent fury, replies -by insulting clamours to the cowardly supplications of his quondam -master.</p> - -<p>This horrible scene soon changed by the very action of that torrent of -fire which was pursuing its devastating course; and the next day, when -Aurora appeared, a heap of ruins was all that remained of the odious -Seba’s magnificent palace.</p> - -<p>The two consuls and some of the senators were fortunate enough to escape -the common danger. Less besotted, perhaps, by the wine and good cheer, -and finding in despair that incredible energy which sometimes operates -the same prodigies as courage, they rushed through the flames, and -gained the country, or those obscure portions of the city which the son -of Agrippina had apparently forgotten.</p> - -<p>Thus it was that Lucius Domitius Nero celebrated the tenth anniversary -of his glorious reign. While the fire was rolling on with its resistless -flood of flame from temples to palaces, and from the Circus to the -Pantheon, the young, poetic Cæsar, his brow bound with laurel, and -holding in his hands a golden lyre, viewed from the top of a -tower—where he was surrounded by a troop of histrions and buffoons—the -conflagration he had just kindled.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_398" id="page_398"></a>{398}</span></p> - -<p>And while the imperial Apollo sang some melancholy verses on the fatal -destiny of the antique city of Troy, his ignoble courtiers cried with -enthusiasm: “May the Gods preserve Nero, their august son, and the -delight of the human race!”</p> - -<p>Such was the last gorgeous feast at which the magiric genius presided in -that Rome which Romulus had founded, and which engulfed the treasures -and wonders of the world. Destroyed by the imperial incendiary, it arose -from its ashes with increased beauty and voluptuousness; and the wild -joy of its new banquets caused the thoughtless queen of nations quickly -to forget the disasters of the past, and the sinistrous presages of the -future.</p> - -<p class="c"><span class="caption">Pl. 32.</span><a name="pl_XXXII" id="pl_XXXII"></a></p> - -<div class="figleft" style="width: 110px;"> -<a href="images/ill_pg_398a_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_398a_sml.jpg" width="110" height="162" alt="Image not available: Pl. 32. - -NERO. - -HELIOGABALUS." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">NERO.</span> -</div> - -<div class="figright" style="width: 117px;"> -<a href="images/ill_pg_398b_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_398b_sml.jpg" width="117" height="171" alt="Image not available: Pl. 32. - -HELIOGABALUS." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">HELIOGABALUS.</span> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_399" id="page_399"></a>{399}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="BIOGRAPHICAL_NOTES" id="BIOGRAPHICAL_NOTES"></a>BIOGRAPHICAL NOTES.</h2> - -<hr /> - -<h3>NERO.</h3> - -<p>Lucius Domitius Nero’s father was Caius Domitius Ænobarbus; Agrippina -was his mother. He took the reins of the empire at the age of eighteen -(<small>A.D.</small> 54), and governed at first with clemency and equity. The Roman -people, transported with love for their young prince, indulged the fond -hope of long and unalloyed felicity; but they were soon aroused from -this delusion to a sense of the dire reality. Nero had forgotten himself -in the path of virtue; he rallied by trying his hand at crime, and found -at last his true vocation. Others have recounted his detestable -infamies: we will merely remind our readers that he poisoned -Britannicus,—that he caused his mother to be slain,—that he killed his -wife Octavia by kicking her,—and that Seneca, his preceptor, only -escaped his cruelty by having his veins opened. In the year 64 he took -it into his head to set fire to the city of Rome, and then accused the -Christians of that prodigious atrocity. Language cannot describe the -unbridled luxury of this ignominious emperor. His gilded house, his -ivory ceilings, his murrhine vases, the nets of gold and scarlet with -which he fished, the incalculable profusion of his repasts—everything -connected with Nero betrayed a species of pompous monomania, leading to -excesses so immeasurable and abominable that in these days they excite -doubt or incredulity.</p> - -<p>The entire world detested the monster. Galba and the Roman army revolted -against him, and the pusillanimous Cæsar fled bare-footed, and wrapped -in a sordid robe. But, alarmed at the idea of the tortures he would have -to undergo if he fell alive into the hands of the cohorts and the -people, and finding no executioner more infamous than himself, he -plunged a sword timidly into his breast, while a freed-man, -Epaphroditus, guided his trembling hand. This happy event happened in -the year 68. Nero had reigned thirteen years!</p> - -<p>This prince sat down to table at mid-day, and did not quit it till -midnight (Sueton. in Neron. 27),—he had reservoirs stocked with the -most rare and exquisite fish,—and he gave to his boon companions -suppers which vied in delicacy with their astonishing magnificence. Let -this, then, plead our excuse for having classed the cruel but epicurean -Cæsar among the high culinary notabilities whose names, glory, or -excesses we record in this work.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_400" id="page_400"></a>{400}</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>HELIOGABALUS.</h3> - -<p>Heliogabalus (Marcus Aurelius Antoninus Verus), son of Antoninus -Caracalla and Semiamira, immortalised himself by his follies, and -merited the name of the <i>Sardanapalus of Rome</i>. His grandmother, -Mœsa, had a fancy to have him invested with the functions of Priest -of the Sun, and the following year (218) the army elected him to succeed -Macrinus. He was then only fourteen years old. It would be impossible to -give a complete catalogue of the crimes which stained this precocious -monster. His luxury knew no bounds, and his insatiable gluttony led him -to send into distant provinces for rare birds, unknown in Italy. The -golden lamps of his palace were supplied with a precious balm, and -scented waters of exquisite delicacy were daily renewed in the vast -piscina of this beardless Cæsar. His beds were adorned with coverlets of -a cloth of gold, and in his kitchens none but skilfully chased silver -utensils were employed. It is said that Heliogabalus invented -after-dinner lotteries: his guests took the tickets at random, and fate -gave to one some vase of inestimable value, to another a simple -toothpick; a fortunate adventurer would receive for his allotment ten -elephants, richly caparisoned, and his less lucky neighbour had to -content himself with ten flies, and loud bursts of laughter from the -imperial stripling.</p> - -<p>Thank Heaven! this frightful phenomenon of turpitude and folly never -attained manhood. The soldiers of his guard massacred him after a reign -of something less than four years, and threw to the populace the dead -body of a young man of eighteen, who, in the course of his brief -existence, had exhausted the treasures of the empire, and enlarged the -sphere of every crime.</p> - -<p>The gastronomic art is, however, indebted to the odious Heliogabalus for -some useful discoveries, and for that reason alone is he here mentioned.</p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>EPICURUS.</h3> - -<p>Epicurus—born 337 years <small>B.C.</small>, in the market-town of Gargettus, near -Athens—taught in his gardens a system of philosophy, which, though -indulgent towards the requirements of the senses, possessed the merit of -a sovereign disdain for every kind of superstition. Epicurus had a great -number of disciples among the ancient pagans, and the sensual philosophy -of modern times hails him as a patron. At this very day the dainty -livers rally under the joyous banner of the moralist of Gargettus, and -his cherished shade inspires the guests and presides over the soothing -intoxication of banquets.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_401" id="page_401"></a>{401}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="MODERN_BANQUETSE" id="MODERN_BANQUETSE"></a>MODERN BANQUETS.<a name="anc_e" id="anc_e"></a><a href="#footnote_e"><span class="fnanchor">[E]</span></a></h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">We</span> have endeavoured to describe in the preceding pages some of those -antique entertainments, which seem to be the summum bonum of the -gigantic power of those shameless dominators of the Roman empire, whose -reigns might be counted as so many banquets, and for whom the entire -world was transformed into one vast market.</p> - -<p>We are reduced to despair when we attempt to depict such sensualism, and -we also despair of inspiring belief. When one goes back into those old -pagan times,—when one shuts out the world as it is, to evoke the -manners and customs of days gone by, and breathe in their -atmosphere,—the mind experiences a sort of stupefaction, so much is it -immersed in the senses, so thick is the moral darkness, so low has man -fallen!</p> - -<p>And, as if it had been decreed that everything should concur to -consummate the annihilation of the human species, on the one hand, -almost the whole family of man was, for the first time since their -dispersion, collected into one body under the Roman domination, which -spread its corruption throughout the several members; while, on the -other hand, the hordes of barbarians who pressed round—like ferocious -beasts waiting till the arena opened—were about to over-run the earth, -in the absence of any civilising element that could interpose to stay -the destruction, by snatching the conquered from the hands of victory, -and the conquerors themselves from their own ferocity.</p> - -<p>It belongs not to us to portray this fearful cataclysm, this sudden -transition from the development of all the arts which perpetuate the -enjoyments of life to the profound ignorance, the savage rudeness, which -the northern conquerors imposed on enslaved Europe.</p> - -<p>The fifth was the last century of Rome. It was then that barbarism -became everywhere victorious. The Vandals were masters of Africa, the -Lombards of Italy, the Visigoths of Spain, the Franks of Gaul. -Literature followed the destiny of the empire, and seemed to perish at -the same time. It is, however, impossible for nations not to receive, as -an inheritance from people civilised before themselves, a great part of -their intellectual cultivation. Happily modern Europe was swayed by this -law: the barbarians reduced Rome by the force of arms,—Rome triumphed -in the long run over the barbarians by the genius of civilisation and -her arts.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_402" id="page_402"></a>{402}</span></p> - -<p>It is known that even after the introduction of vulgar idioms, the -learned of the middle ages continued the use of Latin, and that in the -15th century that beautiful language, purified from barbarian -corruptions, became once more classic, particularly in Italy.</p> - -<p>At that epoch, an obscure inhabitant of Mentz, John Guttenberg, -immortalised himself by the discovery of printing, just as the love of -antiquity was causing the old literary masterpieces to be sought out, -and creating a demand for copies of the manuscripts.</p> - -<p>Then, as if they had risen from their tombs after a thousand years of -forgetfulness, all the writers of antiquity re-appeared, to charm, -instruct, and renovate the world.</p> - -<p>It was the era of regeneration, when you, O, beloved masters! Pliny, -Apicius, Petronius, Athenæus,—and you, ingenuous and faithful -chroniclers of the gastronomic follies of the people-king,—were -resuscitated in all your glory! Others instructed the universe in -philosophy, eloquence, and history,—you taught man how the ancients -dined; and, thanks to your lessons, our fathers began to comprehend -that, since the table is the great scene of life where bonds of -friendship are formed and cemented, banqueting is indispensable to the -prosperity of nations.</p> - -<p>No one will accuse us, we hope, of endeavouring to establish a paradox -for which we could hardly find an excuse, in our love of the culinary -art, as long experience, and public facts within the memory of all, -victoriously confirm our assertion.</p> - -<p>Let us interrogate the 19th century. Hardly had the lamentable wars -which divided the nations of Europe ceased,—hardly had the vibration of -the last cannon-shot died away,—when the people of every clime—too -long disunited—sealed by fraternal banquets their tardy but frank -reconciliation. The destructive genius of war is succeeded by those -grand struggles of commerce and industry, which, aided by the arts and -sciences of civilisation, dispense to all the blessing of reproductive -wealth.</p> - -<p>And then dinner is the <i>sine quâ non</i>,—to that goal all our efforts -tend. The Englishman dines in Paris, the Frenchman dines in London; the -time-honoured national dishes become cosmopolite, like those who dwell -on the banks of the Thames or the Seine; on both sides the people are -proud to communicate the arcana of those delicate preparations, which -have only to cross the frontier to obtain, under a favourable sky, a -more ample illustration and a new right of citizenship. Appetite, the -roasting-jack,—in a word, gastronomy, serves perhaps to unite men much -more firmly than motives of interest; and more than one thought useful -to the human species has often originated in the midst of the creative -excitement of a banquet, where, to say the least, we meet with that -hearty goodwill and friendly aid which might be wanting elsewhere.</p> - -<p>Shall we mention that prodigious enterprise with which a noble -prince—the enlightened protector of industry and the arts, and so -worthy of our love and respect—has deigned to couple a name dear to -public gratitude?</p> - -<p>The royal plan was nothing less than this: to erect an immense, costly, -and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_403" id="page_403"></a>{403}</span> sumptuous palace, in which each nation should deposit the material -proofs of its intelligence. Neither Rome nor Greece ever conceived such -a thought! Louis XIV., with all his magnificence, and the magic pomp of -his reign, imagined nothing equal to it!</p> - -<p>This great and complex idea struck many persons no doubt with surprise; -but England—we must do her the justice which facts prove to be her -due—is always ready to undertake impossibilities, and generally -performs them.</p> - -<p>However, it was necessary to bring together a certain number of -influential, scientific, patriotic, and wealthy men, and obtain their -co-operation to realise that modern arch of crystal, into which the -industry of the world would be summoned to send its most marvellous -productions. Banquets were proposed, and banquets took place, in honour -of a prince who was about to connect all parts of the globe in the bands -of commercial fraternity. The Lord Mayor of the city of London—that -celebrated factory of the world’s trade!—invited all the mayors of the -three kingdoms to come and place themselves by the side of the august -spouse of their sovereign, at a feast worthy of such guests by its -delicate profusion and splendid magnificence. There his Royal Highness -Prince Albert received the enthusiastic assurance of the realisation of -a colossal project, a philanthropic thought,—the union of nations, by -rousing the noble pride of their nationality!</p> - -<p>In their turn, the mayors of Great Britain and Ireland were desirous of -offering to the Lord Mayor of the city of London a banquet, at which his -Royal Highness would be present; and this feast, a grandiose and -sympathetic demonstration on the part of the votaries of the memorable -London Exhibition, took place the 25th October, 1850, in the gothic -Guildhall of York, where remembrance of the past was blended with hopes -for the future.</p> - -<p>It was resolved to intrust us with the direction of the gastronomic -department, and, let us add, the artistic arrangement of that banquet, -which, by reason of its unprecedented richness and truly magic aspect, -no pen can describe, owing partly to the magnificence of the maces, -swords, banners, &c., of each county being for the first time displayed -under the same roof. The engraving which we present to our readers<a name="anc_f" id="anc_f"></a><a href="#footnote_f"><span class="fnanchor">[F]</span></a> -will perhaps convey an idea of a portion of the splendour of the -entertainment.</p> - -<p>The guests at the royal table consisted of the following distinguished -personages:</p> - -<p>The Lord Mayor of York being in the chair, there were seated on his -right his Royal Highness Prince Albert, his Grace the Archbishop of -York, Earl Fitzwilliam, Lord John Russell, Earl Minto, Lord Overstone, -Lord Beaumont, and the Right Honourable Sir Charles Wood. On his -Lordship’s left were the Lord Mayor of London, the Marquis of -Clanricarde, the Earl of Carlisle, the Earl of Abercorn, Lord Feversham, -the Earl Granville, the High Sheriff of Yorkshire, the Right Honourable -Sir G. Grey, Bart., and Sir J. V. Johnstone, Bart.</p> - -<p>As this table formed a prominent feature in the entertainment, the -following <span class="pagenum"><a name="page_404" id="page_404"></a>{404}</span>distinct bill of fare was provided:—</p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>BILL OF FARE FOR THE ROYAL TABLE.</h3> - -<div class="sidenote-l"><p class="c">Rissolettes<br /> à la<br /> Pompadour.</p></div> - -<div class="sidenote-r"><p class="c">Rissolettes<br /> à la<br /> Pompadour.</p></div> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">FIRST COURSE.</td></tr> -<tr><td> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"><i>Trois Potages.</i></td><td align="left"><i>Trois Poissons.</i></td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Potage à la Victoria.</td><td align="left">Turbot à la Mazarine.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Id. à la Prince of Wales.</td><td align="left">Rougets à l’Italienne Blanche.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Id. Tortue Transparente.</td><td align="left">John Dory à la Marinière.</td></tr> -<tr><td> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><i>Trois Relevés.</i></td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">L’Extravagance Culinaire à l’Alderman.<a name="anc_g" id="anc_g"></a><a href="#footnote_g"><span class="fnanchor">[G]</span></a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">Chapons à la Nelson.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">Quartier d’Agneau de Maison à la Sévigné.</td></tr> -</table> - -<div class="sidenote-l"><p class="c">Venison.</p></div> - -<div class="sidenote-r"><p class="c">Venison.</p></div> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="0" summary=""> - -<tr><td> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><i>Quatre Flancs.</i></td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">Timballe de Riz à la Royale.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">Jambon à la York.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">Vol au vent à la Talleyrand.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">Cannetons Canaris, Macédoine de Légumes.</td></tr> - -</table> -<table border="0" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="0" summary=""> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><i>Six Entrées.</i></td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Sauté de Faisans au fumet de Gibier.</td><td align="left">Côtelettes de Mouton à la Réforme.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Blancs de Volaille à la York Minster.</td><td align="left">Riz de Veau à la Palestine.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Turbans de Quenelles de Lapereaux aux Truffes.</td><td align="left">Filets de Canneton à la Séville.</td></tr> -<tr><td> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">SECOND COURSE.</td></tr> -<tr><td> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><i>Trois Rôtis.</i></td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">Paon à l’ancienne Rome garni d’Ortolans.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Bécasses aux Feuilles de Céleri.</td><td align="left">Guillenôts des Ardennes.</td></tr> -<tr><td> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><i>Dix Entremets.</i></td></tr> -<tr><td> </td></tr> -</table> -<table border="0" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="0" summary=""> - -<tr><td align="left">Crême de la Grande Bretagne à la Victoria.</td><td align="left">Crême de la Grande Bretagne à l’Albert.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Galantine d’Oisons à la Volière.</td><td align="left">Salade de Grouse à la Soyer.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Gelée de Fraises Françaises à la Fontainebleau.</td><td align="left">Chartreuse de Fruits aux Pêches.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Mireton de Homard.</td><td align="left">Gâteaux crêmants à la Duke of York.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Tartelettes pralinées aux cerises de Montmorency.</td><td align="left">Rocailles aux Huîtres gratinées à l’Ostend.</td></tr> -</table> - -<div class="sidenote-l"><p class="c">Légumes à la Française.<br /> -Petite Pois Verts.</p></div> - -<div class="sidenote-r"><p class="c">Légumes à la Française.<br /> -Grosses Asperges à<br /> -l’Américaine.</p></div> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="0" summary=""> - -<tr><td> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><i>Trois Relevés.</i></td></tr> -<tr><td> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">Hure de Sanglier à l’Allemande en Surprise.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">Jambon Croquant aux Abricots.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">Paniér de Fruit glacé à la Lady Mayoress.</td></tr> -<tr><td> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><i>Dessert Floréal à la Watteau.</i></td></tr> -<tr><td> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Raisins de Fontainebleau.</td><td align="left">Raisins Muscats.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Fraises des bois Françaises.</td><td align="left">Melons.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Pêches de Montreuil.</td><td align="left">Bananas.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Ananas.</td><td align="left">Compote de Chaumontelle.</td></tr> -</table> - -<hr /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_405" id="page_405"></a>{405}</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="pl_XXXIII" id="pl_XXXIII"></a> -<a href="images/ill_pg_404_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_404_sml.jpg" width="562" height="469" alt="Image not available: Pl. 33. - -York Banquet" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">Pl. 33.<br /> - -York Banquet</span> -</div> - -<hr /> - -<h3>GENERAL BILL OF FARE FOR 248 GUESTS.</h3> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">FIRST COURSE.</td></tr> -<tr><td> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><i>Trente-deux Potages.</i></td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Quatre Potages à la Victoria.</td><td align="left">Huit Potages à la Tortue Transparente.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Quatre Id. à la Prince of Wales.</td><td align="left">Seize Id. à la Moderne.</td></tr> -<tr><td> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><i>Trente-deux Poissons.</i></td></tr> -<tr><td> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Huit Turbots à la Mazarin.</td><td align="left">Huit Filets de Merlans à la Crême.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Huit Truites Saumonées à la Marinière.</td><td align="left">Huit Crimp Cod aux Huîtres.</td></tr> -<tr><td> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><i>Trente-deux Relevées.</i></td></tr> -<tr><td> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Six Chapons à la Nelson.</td><td align="left">Six Quartiers d’Agneau de Maison à la Sévigné.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Six Saddleback de Mouton Gallois.</td><td align="left">Quatre Dindonneaux en Diadême.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Quatre Aloyaux de Bœuf au Raifort.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Six Haunches de Venaison.</td></tr> -<tr><td> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><i>Trente-deux Flancs.</i></td></tr> -<tr><td> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Huit Jambons à la York.</td><td align="left">Huit Timballes de Riz à la Royale.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Huit Poulardes à la Russe.</td><td align="left">Huit Pâtés chauds à la Westphalienne.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><i>Quarante-huit Entrées.</i></td></tr> -</table> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary=""> - -<tr><td align="left">Huit Sautés de Faisans au fumet de Gibier aux Truffes.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Huit de Côtelettes de Mouton à la Vicomtesse.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Huit de Blancs de Volaille à la York Minster.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Huit de Riz de Veau à la Palestine.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Huit de Rissolettes de Volaille à la Pompadour.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Huit de Salmi de Gibier à la Chasseur.</td></tr> -</table> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary=""> - -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">SECOND COURSE.</td></tr> -<tr><td> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><i>Quarante Rôtis.</i></td></tr> -<tr><td> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Huit de Perdreaux aux feuilles de Céleri.</td><td align="left">Six de Grouses à l’Ecossaise.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Huit de Faisans bardés au Cresson.</td><td align="left">Six de Levreaux au jus de Groseilles.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Six de Cannetons au jus d’Oranges.</td><td align="left">Six de Bécasses et Bécassines au jus.</td></tr> -<tr><td> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><i>Cent Entremets.</i></td></tr> -<tr><td> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Dix Chartreuses de Pêches.</td><td align="left">Dix Crevettes au Vin de Champagne.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Dix Gelées de fraises Françaises à la Fontainebleau.</td><td align="left">Dix Gâteaux crêmants à la Duke of York.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Dix Salades de Grouses à la Soyer.</td><td align="left">Dix Petites Macédoines de fruit cristallisée.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Dix Galantines Aspiquées à la Volière.</td><td align="left">Dix Mirotons de Homard aux Olives.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Dix Crêmes transparentes au Kirchenwasser.</td><td align="left">Dix Tartelettes prâlinées aux Cerises de Montmorency.</td></tr> -<tr><td> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><i>Vingt Relevées.</i></td></tr> -<tr><td> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">Dix paniers de Fruits Glacés à la Lady Mayoress.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">Dix Jambons en Surprise à l’Ananas.</td></tr> -<tr><td> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><i>Side Table--Vegetables.</i></td></tr> -<tr><td> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Céleri à la Crême.</td><td align="left">Céleri à la Crême.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Choux Fleurs au beurre.</td><td align="left">Choux Fleurs au beurre.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Haricots Verts.</td><td align="left">Sea Kale.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Choux de Bruxelles.</td><td align="left">Choux de Bruxelles.</td></tr> -<tr><td> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><i>Grand Dessert Floréal à la Watteau.</i></td></tr> -</table> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_406" id="page_406"></a>{406}</span></p> - -<p><i>L’Extravagance Culinaire à l’Alderman, or the One Hundred Guinea -Dish.</i>—The opportunity of producing some gastronomic phenomenon for the -royal table on such an occasion as the York Banquet was irresistible; -accordingly, the following <i>choice morsels</i> were carefully selected from -all the birds mentioned in the general bill of fare, to form a dish of -delicacies worthy of his Royal Highness and the noble guests around him.</p> - -<p>The extravagance of this dish, valued at one hundred guineas, is -accounted for, by supposing, that if an epicure were to order a similar -one for a small party, he would be obliged to provide the undermentioned -articles, viz.:</p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr><td valign="top" align="right"> </td> -<td valign="bottom"> </td><td valign="bottom" colspan="3" align="center">At the cost of</td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top" align="right"> </td> -<td valign="bottom"> </td><td valign="bottom" align="right">£</td> -<td valign="bottom" align="right"><i>s.</i></td><td valign="bottom" align="right"><i>d.</i></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top" align="right">5</td><td valign="bottom">Turtle heads, part of fins, and green fat</td><td valign="bottom" align="right">34</td><td valign="bottom" align="right">0</td><td valign="bottom" align="right">0</td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top" align="right">24</td><td valign="bottom">Capons, the two small <i>noix</i> (nuts) from ach side<br /> -of the middle of the back only used, eing the most delicate<br /> - part of every bird</td><td valign="bottom" align="right">8</td><td valign="bottom" align="right">8</td><td valign="bottom" align="right">0</td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top" align="right">10</td><td valign="bottom">Turkeys, the same</td><td valign="bottom" align="right">8</td><td valign="bottom" align="right">12</td><td valign="bottom" align="right">0</td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top" align="right">18</td><td valign="bottom">Fatted pullets, the same</td><td valign="bottom" align="right">5</td><td valign="bottom" align="right">17</td><td valign="bottom" align="right">0</td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top" align="right">16</td><td valign="bottom">Fowls, the same</td><td valign="bottom" align="right">2</td><td valign="bottom" align="right">8</td><td valign="bottom" align="right">0</td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top" align="right">10</td><td valign="bottom">Grouse</td><td valign="bottom" align="right">2</td><td valign="bottom" align="right">5</td><td valign="bottom" align="right">0</td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top" align="right">20</td><td valign="bottom">Pheasants, <i>noix</i> only</td><td valign="bottom" align="right">3</td><td valign="bottom" align="right">0</td><td valign="bottom" align="right">0</td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top" align="right">45</td><td valign="bottom">Partridges, the same</td><td valign="bottom" align="right">3</td><td valign="bottom" align="right">7</td><td valign="bottom" align="right">0</td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top" align="right">6</td><td valign="bottom">Plovers, whole</td><td valign="bottom" align="right">0</td><td valign="bottom" align="right">9</td><td valign="bottom" align="right">0</td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top" align="right">100</td><td valign="bottom">Snipes, <i>noix</i> only</td><td valign="bottom" align="right">5</td><td valign="bottom" align="right">0</td><td valign="bottom" align="right">0</td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top" align="right">3</td><td valign="bottom">Dozen Quails, whole</td><td valign="bottom" align="right">3</td><td valign="bottom" align="right">0</td><td valign="bottom" align="right">0</td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top" align="right">40</td><td valign="bottom">Woodcocks, <i>noix</i> only</td><td valign="bottom" align="right">8</td><td valign="bottom" align="right">0</td><td valign="bottom" align="right">0</td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top" align="right">3</td><td valign="bottom">Dozen Pigeons, the same</td><td valign="bottom" align="right">0</td><td valign="bottom" align="right">14</td><td valign="bottom" align="right">0</td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top" align="right">6</td><td valign="bottom">Dozen Larks, stuffed</td><td valign="bottom" align="right">0</td><td valign="bottom" align="right">15</td><td valign="bottom" align="right">0</td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top" align="right"> </td><td valign="bottom">Ortolans from Belgium</td><td valign="bottom" align="right">5</td><td valign="bottom" align="right">0</td><td valign="bottom" align="right">0</td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top" align="right"> </td><td valign="bottom">The <i>garniture</i>, consisting of cockscombs, truffles, mushrooms,<br /> crawfish, olives, American asparagus, <i>croustades</i><br /> (paste crust), sweetbreads, <i>quenelles de volaille</i><br /> - (strips or slices of fowl), green mangoes, and a new<br /> - sauce</td><td valign="bottom" align="right">14</td><td valign="bottom" align="right">10</td><td valign="bottom" align="right">0</td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top" align="right"> </td><td valign="bottom" align="right"> </td> -<td valign="bottom" class="bt" align="right">£105</td><td valign="bottom" class="bt" align="right">5</td><td valign="bottom" class="bt" align="right">0</td></tr> -</table> - -<p>In order to present to the reader the striking contrast of extravagance -in ancient and modern cookery, we here give an engraving of the -celebrated Roman dish (Wild Boar à la Troyenne) described in page 185. -It appears to have been one of those extraordinary efforts of genius -which the artist could only produce under the sanction of a lavish -patron. It was a veritable <i>tour-de-force</i>, and, no doubt deserved the -commendation it received, not only because it was of colossal size, and -the good taste displayed, but also on account of the various culinary -delicacies of which it was composed. We have no account of the cost of -such a dish, but, judging from the excessive prices given in ancient -times for all <i>recherché</i> articles at the tables of the great, it must -have been enormous.</p> - -<p>We will now resume our description of the York Banquet. In front of -the</p> - - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="pl_XXXIV" id="pl_XXXIV"></a> -<span class="caption">Pl. 34.</span><br /> -<a href="images/ill_pg_406_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_406a_sml.jpg" width="257" height="231" alt="Image not available: Pl. 34. - -WILD BOAR A LA TROYENNE. - - -EXTRAVAGANCE CULINAIRE A L ALDERMAN" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption"> - -WILD BOAR A LA TROYENNE.</span> -<br /> -<a href="images/ill_pg_406_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_406b_sml.jpg" width="259" height="212" alt="Image not available: Pl. 34. - -WILD BOAR A LA TROYENNE. - -EXTRAVAGANCE CULINAIRE A L ALDERMAN" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption"> -EXTRAVAGANCE CULINAIRE A L ALDERMAN</span> -</div> - - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a name="pl_XXXV" id="pl_XXXV"></a> -<span class="caption">Pl. 35</span><br /> -<a href="images/ill_pg_407_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_pg_407_sml.jpg" width="402" height="275" alt="Image not available: Pl. 35 - -LORD MAYOR OF YORK’S CUP. - -HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS PRINCE ALBERT’S CUP. - -LORD MAYOR OF LONDON’S CUP." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption"> -LORD MAYOR OF YORK’S CUP. - -HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS PRINCE ALBERT’S CUP. - -LORD MAYOR OF LONDON’S CUP.</span> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_407" id="page_407"></a>{407}</span></p> - -<p class="nind">principal table, on a raised platform, covered with purple cloth, was a -collection of maces, swords, &c., estimated by competent judges to be -worth £12,000.</p> - -<p>The most conspicuous ornament was placed immediately behind the great -circular table; it was designed by the author, and is represented in the -accompanying engraving. It consisted of a large emblematic vase, twenty -feet in height, painted and modelled by Mr. Alfred Adams. Around the -base are Europe, Asia, Africa, and America, presenting specimens of -industry to Britannia. From the centre of the base springs a palm tree, -surrounded by the arms of the cities of London and York; medallion -portraits of her Majesty and Prince Albert, encircled by the shields of -the principal cities and towns of the United Kingdom, form the body of -the vase; two figures of Ireland and Scotland the handles; the Prince of -Wales’s emblem the neck, and the royal arms the apex. Appended were -graceful wreaths of flowers, in which the symbols of the Houses of York -and Lancaster (red and white roses) predominated; and when a brilliant -flood of gaslight, aided by powerful reflectors, was thrown upon this -splendid decoration, the effect was truly magnificent.</p> - -<p>Having illustrated this volume with a murrhine vase, belonging to the -House of Brunswick, and a curiously worked crystal cup, as gems of -ancient production, we give here, as modern works of art, an engraving -representing three superb drinking cups,—one for his Royal Highness -Prince Albert, and one each for the Lord Mayors of London and York: the -first is in ruby glass, a portion of the stem and base internally -checquered with silver, and on the sides bearing white sunken medallions -of her Majesty and the Prince Consort, and the royal arms of England. -The other two cups were of the same size and shape, but, instead of -being ruby and silver, the colours were emerald and silver; and on the -sides were the private arms of each of the Lord Mayors, together with -the usual heraldic emblazonments of the cities of London and York -respectively. They were presented by the author of this work in the name -of the Patent Silvered-Glass Company.</p> - -<p>This banquet was of so interesting a nature, that we could not omit -giving some particulars of it in this work; at all events, the pomp and -splendour of modern times, as far as banqueting is concerned, must prove -that—from the Greeks and Romans, down to the middle ages—we have not -been exceeded, except, perhaps, in waste and extravagance.</p> - -<p>The national entertainments given within the last fifty years, to -commemorate striking events, are too fresh in our memory to pass them in -silence.</p> - -<p>Many persons can still remember the coronation of the Emperor Napoleon -in 1805. On that occasion a grand banquet was given to all the -dignitaries of the Empire and their ladies, nothing being omitted that -was calculated to solemnise with sumptuosity such an event.</p> - -<p>In 1810 the city of Paris offered to Napoleon and Maria-Louisa -(Archduchess of Austria) a banquet as extraordinary as it was costly. A -semicircular gallery of the Corinthian order was erected on the whole -square of the Hôtel-de-Ville, where above a thousand guests joined the -festival.</p> - -<p>In 1815 a magnificent entertainment was given to the allied sovereigns -by the city of London, where richness of decoration, massive gold and -silver plate, and profusion of culinary rarities struck the beholder -with wonder.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_408" id="page_408"></a>{408}</span></p> - -<p>At the Coronation Banquet of George IV., in 1820, the old customs and -privileges were ransacked to give <i>éclat</i> to that solemnity, one of the -grandest, and perhaps, the most sumptuous that ever could he imagined in -ancient or modern times.</p> - -<p>In France, in the year 1824, the coronation of Charles X. was celebrated -at Rheims with royal magnificence; the banquet excited the admiration of -all present. At that solemnity the Duke of Northumberland was appointed -Ambassador Extraordinary from England, and few, if any, ever equalled -the liberality of his Grace, or the display he made of his wealth, to -represent and honour his sovereign and country at the court of Charles -X. The fêtes and banquets given by his Grace—and at which the author -was present—were of the most costly if not extravagant description, for -we are told that the expenses of that munificent nobleman were not less -than £200,000.</p> - -<p>The grand banquets and receptions of King Louis Philippe during eighteen -years exhibited too much liberality and splendour to be forgotten; and -at the marriage of his eldest son, the unfortunate Duke of Orleans, -Versailles presented a scene of banqueting and rejoicing unparalleled -since the time of Louis XIV.</p> - -<p>On her Majesty’s visit to the city of London a banquet was given in the -Guildhall, the grandeur of which was scarcely ever exceeded, showing the -loyalty, devotedness, and noble hospitality of the wealthiest commercial -citizens in the world.</p> - -<p>In 1838, at the coronation of Queen Victoria, Buckingham Palace -witnessed a most elegant, chaste, and splendid banquet. The Ambassadors -Extraordinary, sent from all the foreign courts, were not more -conspicuous for the brilliancy of their costumes than the native -nobility who graced the festive-board of the youthful Queen of Great -Britain.</p> - -<p>On this occasion a very elaborate and graceful fountain of massive gold -of about three feet in height and two feet in diameter, was prominent on -the royal table. It spouted four different sorts of delicious wine into -as many shells, from which it dripped into four reservoirs, and was -served to the guests by means of a golden ladle. This fountain can be -seen, with the regalia, in the Tower of London.</p> - -<p>On that joyful day the members of the Reform Club intrusted to our care, -at Gwyrdir House, a sumptuous entertainment for fifteen hundred persons, -on a scale of liberality deserving of the highest praise.</p> - -<p>The marriage of Her Majesty with H. R. H. Prince Albert formed one of -those memorable epochs to be preserved in the annals of banqueting.</p> - -<p>The opening of the Royal Exchange, in 1846, was also one of those -extraordinary days on record, where the Queen of a great nation gave -proof of her sympathy in the prosperity of her merchant-princes, by -presiding over a splendid entertainment to commemorate the -re-establishment of that commercial edifice.</p> - -<p>On the 3rd of July in the same year, his Highness Ibrahim Pacha, son of -Mehemet Ali, Viceroy of Egypt, was entertained by the members of the -Reform Club to a magnificent and most sumptuous banquet provided for two -hundred guests. The author, having full scope to do honour to the -invitation, provided the following liberal selection of gastronomic -dishes, many of which were innovated for the occasion:—<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_409" id="page_409"></a>{409}</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<h3>BILL OF FARE.</h3> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><i>Seize Potages.</i></td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Quatre à la Victoria.</td><td align="left">Quatre à la Louis Philippe.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Quatre à la Comte de Paris.</td><td align="left">Quatre à la Colbert, aux Légumes Printaniers.</td></tr> -<tr><td> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><i>Seize Potages.</i></td></tr> -<tr><td> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Quatre de Turbots, Sauce à la Mazarin.</td><td align="left">Quatre de Saumons de Severn à la Crême.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Quatre de Buissons de Filets de Merlans à l’Egyptienne.</td><td align="left">Quatre de Truites Saumonées en Matelotte Marinière.</td></tr> -<tr><td> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><i>Seize Reléves.</i></td></tr> -<tr><td> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Quatre de Chapons à la Nelson.</td><td align="left">Quatre de Poulardes en Diadême.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Quatre de Saddleback of Southdown Mouton, rôti à la Soyer.</td><td align="left">Quatre de Saddleback d’Agneau, rôti à la Sévigné.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Baron of Beef à l’Anglaise.</td><td align="left">Entrée Pagodatique de riz à la Luxor.</td></tr> -<tr><td> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><i>Cinquante-quatre Entrées.</i></td></tr> -<tr><td> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Six de Poussins Printaniers à l’Ambassadrice.</td><td align="left">Quatre de Volailles Farcies à la Russe aux Légumes Verts.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Six de Côtelettes de Mouton à la Reform.</td><td align="left">Quatre de Pâtées Chauds de Cailles à la Banquière.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Quatre de Riz de Veau piqués en Macédoine de Légumes.</td><td align="left">Quatre de Rissolettes à la Pompadour.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Quatre de Petits Vol-au-vents aux Laitances de Maquereaux.</td><td align="left">Quatre de Grenadins de Bœuf à la Beyrout.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Quatre de Timballes de Riz aux Queues d’Agneau.</td><td align="left">Six de Côtelettes d’Agneau à la Vicomtesse, et</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Quatre de Jambonneaux Braisés au Vin de Madère.</td><td align="left">Quatre de Turbans Epigramme de Levreau au Fumet.</td></tr> -<tr><td> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><i>Seize Rôts.</i></td></tr> -<tr><td> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Quatre de Turkey Poult, Piqués et Bardés.</td><td align="left">Quatre de Levreaux au Jus de Groseilles, et</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Quatre de Cannetons au Jus de Bigarades.</td><td align="left">Quatre de Gros Chapons au Cresson.</td></tr> -<tr><td> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><i>Cinquante-quatre Entremots.</i></td></tr> -<tr><td> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Six de Gelées Macédoine de Fruits au Dantzic.</td><td align="left">Quatre de Salades de Volaille à la Soyer.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Quatre Turbans de Meringues Demi-Glacées.</td><td align="left">Quatre de Haricots Verts au Beurre Noisette.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Quatre de Charlotte Prussienne.</td><td align="left">Six de Tartelettes Prâlinées aux Abricots.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Six de Croquantes d’Amandes aux Cerises.</td><td align="left">Quatre de Pain de Pêches au Noyeau.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Quatre de Galantines à la Volière.</td><td align="left">Quatre de Petite Pois à l’Anglo-Francaise, et</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Quatre de Mirotons de Homard à l’Indienne.</td><td align="left">Quatre de Gelées Cristallisées à l’Ananas.</td></tr> -<tr><td> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><i>Relevés de Rôts.</i></td></tr> -<tr><td> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Crème d’Egypte à l’Ibrahim Pacha.</td><td align="left">Quatre de Manivaux de Champignons au</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Gâteau Britannique à l’Amiral.</td><td align="left">Curaçao en Surprise.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Quatre de Jambons Glacés en Surprise.</td><td align="left">Deux de Meringues Chinoises-Pagoda aux</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Quatre de Côtelettes en Surprise à la Reform.</td><td align="left">Fraises.</td></tr> -</table> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_410" id="page_410"></a>{410}</span></p> - -<p>We hardly need mention the annual entertainment which takes place on the -9th of November, when the city of London makes a king of a citizen.</p> - -<p>In the course of the year 1844, King Louis Philippe paid a visit to her -Majesty Queen Victoria at Windsor Castle, and during the time a series -of banquets were given in honour of the King’s visit by her Majesty. The -gold plate—worth, it is said, a million sterling—was used on that -occasion. We shall not attempt to describe the extraordinary beauty of -that service: the value in itself must leave the impression that nothing -like it is in existence.</p> - -<p>In the year 1848 the return of Lord Hardinge, Governor-General of India, -from his glorious campaigns in the East, was solemnised by a sumptuous -banquet offered to his lordship by the members of the Carlton Club.</p> - -<p>In the year 1850 the annual meeting of the Royal Agricultural Society -was held in the fine old city of Exeter, where the Society was welcomed -with the most enthusiastic rejoicings, and we had the honour of being -selected by the committee to provide a dinner for one thousand and fifty -members. As this rustic banquet was admitted to be one of no ordinary -kind we give here the general bill of fare, and a short narrative of the -first attempt to roast a whole ox by gas.</p> - -<h3>GRAND AGRICULTURAL PAVILION DINNER.</h3> - -<div class="sidenote-l"><p class="c">Baron<br /> of Beef<br /> à la Magna<br /> Charta.</p></div> -<div class="sidenote-r"><p class="c">Grand<br /> Agricultural<br /> Trophy.</p></div> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr><td align="center">33 Dishes of Ribs of Beef.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">35 Dishes of Roast Lamb.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">99 Dishes of Galantine of Veal.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">29 Dishes of Ham.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">66 Dishes of Pressed Beef.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">2 Rounds of Beef à la Garrick.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">264 Dishes of Chicken.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">33 French raised Pies à la Soyer.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">198 Spring Mayonnaise Salad.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">264 Cherry, Gooseberry, Raspberry, and Currant Tarts.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">33 Exeter Puddings.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">198 Dishes of Hot Potatoes.</td></tr> -</table> - -<p>Homer tells us that a royal culinary artist placed before Ajax and his -voracious companions in arms a whole bullock roasted. Since those heroic -ages many no doubt have shared the same fate; and we know that in this -country, on the occasion of a rich heir coming of age, a roasted ox is -often given to the tenants as a substantial fare, with a well-nursed -butt of ale, twenty-one years old. Many can remember that in the winter -of 1812 a bullock was roasted on the frozen Thames, which certainly was -something to wonder at. Another monster effort was attempted at -Hammersmith some years ago, but the animal, clumsily suspended from the -summit of an apparatus formed of three beams, was burnt, emitted a rank -smell, and did not roast. All those who have had to attend such an -operation agree that it is rather an awkward affair, and not performed -without great difficulties, on account of the immense fire, which -requires constant attention to keep up and regulate the necessary -heat,—and, after all, it is seldom entirely successful.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_411" id="page_411"></a>{411}</span></p> - -<p>For the present festival, the author, who knew well the power and -efficacy of gas, wished to honour the guests with a dish of <i>his own</i>, -never yet attempted, and which he has entitled the “<i>Baron and -Saddleback of Beef à la Magna Charta</i>.” He therefore proposed to roast a -baron and saddleback of beef, weighing five hundred and thirty-five -pounds, in the open air. The magistrates very willingly put the castle -yard at his disposal, and it was anticipated that a large Pandemonium -fire would have been seen; but, to the surprise of every one, a few -bricks, without mortar, and a few sheets of iron, forming a temporary -covering to a space six feet six inches in length, and three feet three -inches in width, were the only appearance of an apparatus, with two -hundred and sixteen very small jets of gas coming through pipes -half-an-inch in diameter. It was hardly credited that such a monster -joint could be properly done by such means; however, incredulity soon -vanished on seeing it frizzling and steaming away; and after eight -hours’ roasting it was thoroughly dressed, at a cost of less than five -shillings for gas.</p> - -<p>After having allowed it to cool it was removed, and carried by eight men -through the principal streets of the ancient and loyal city of Exeter, -accompanied by a band of music, playing “The Roast Beef of Old England,” -and followed by thousands of the incredulous of the previous day. On its -arrival at the pavilion it was deposited under the grand triumphal arch, -designed and erected by the author; it was 17 feet high, and 10 feet -wide, and composed of all the produce of agriculture and the farm.</p> - -<p>The following list will give some idea of its magnitude: it consisted -of—</p> - -<p>One swan, two turkeys, four geese, four ducks, eight fowls, eight -pigeons, four rabbits, one fine barn-door cock, six ox heads, four -calves’ heads, two rams’ heads, two stags’ heads, two whole lambs—all -natural, and in their plumage or skin—ornamented with vegetables, -fruit, and flowers, viz., cabbages, turnips, potatoes, carrots, leeks, -celery, rhubarb, onions, French beans, peas, asparagus, sea-kale stalks; -sheaves of wheat, oats, barley; pine apples, citrons, cherries, grapes, -melons, peaches, apricots, greengages, apples, gooseberries, -strawberries, currants, and the choicest kinds of flowers—all being the -production of the county—and surmounted by various implements of -agriculture. There was also an elegant jug, ornamented with flowers, -filled with clotted cream. On the top of the huge piece of beef, was -placed a black pig’s head, weighing eighty pounds when killed.</p> - -<p>It was in the recollection of many persons, that thirty-five years ago a -baron of beef, weighing only two hundred and forty-two pounds was -roasted in Exeter, under the superintendence of twelve blacksmiths, at -their forge fire, for a banquet given at the time peace was proclaimed.</p> - -<p>The Parisians have not forgotten the great fête of the distribution of -eagles by his Majesty the Emperor of the French, on that day when he -relinquished the functions of President of the Republic for a more -august title. That military solemnity was followed by a splendid -banquet, at which there were several thousands of guests. It would be -superfluous to add, that the arrangements for that gigantic repast -evinced the intelligent taste and incredible resources of imagination of -our continental neighbours.</p> - -<p>An entire volume would not suffice, if we attempted to recount all the -pompous<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_412" id="page_412"></a>{412}</span> feasts which followed in succession during the last century, -“the age of powder and suppers.” But we cannot pass in silence the -memorable punch given in 1746 by Sir Edward Russell, Commander-in-Chief -of the British forces, which can only be assimilated in point of -extravagance to the great banquet of the Earl of Warwick, the -description of which was extracted from the “Gastronomic Regenerator,” -and reproduced in this work, page 362.</p> - -<p>The bowl was the marble basin of a delightful garden, forming the -central point of four vast avenues, bordered with orange and lemon -trees. A magnificent collation was served on four immense tables, which -occupied the whole length of the several avenues. The basin had been -filled with four large barrels of brandy, eight barrels of filtered -water, twenty-five thousand citrons, eighty pints of lemon juice, -thirteen hundred weight of sugar, five pounds of nutmeg, three hundred -biscuits, and a pipe of Malaga wine. An awning over the basin protected -it from rain, which might have disturbed the chemical combination of the -delicious beverage; and, in a charming little rose-wood boat, a cabin -boy, belonging to the fleet, rowed about on the surface of the punch, -ready to serve the joyous company, which numbered more than six thousand -persons.<a name="anc_h" id="anc_h"></a><a href="#footnote_h"><span class="fnanchor">[H]</span></a></p> - -<p>We cannot terminate this rapid sketch, without mentioning that, after -several years of research in compiling this work, we completed our task -on the day following that on which her Most Gracious Majesty the Queen -of England offered the largest royal banquet since her accession to the -throne, to an assembly of kings, queens, and princes, and the flower of -the British aristocracy, consisting of a hundred and twenty guests, on -the occasion of the baptism of his Royal Highness Prince Leopold George -Duncan Albert. This regal entertainment took place on the 28th of June, -and never, perhaps, did the august sovereign display so much -magnificence and majesty. We shall not publish the details of this -imposing banquet; and, moreover, we should inform our readers of nothing -new, were we to tell them of the artistical selection, execution, and -perfection of the bill of fare,—of the richness of the ornaments and -service,—of the royal and feminine gracefulness of the mother, wife, -and queen. “May Heaven grant,” say we, in the words of the immortal -Bossuet, “that the children of this illustrious princess, like a crown -of olive saplings, may cling round her, and grow in virtue, strength, -and renown; may the Ruler of empires throw a halo round the destiny of -the august mother, and show to all that His mighty hand upholds thrones -and protects kings!”</p> - -<div class="footnotes"><h2><a name="FOOTNOTES" id="FOOTNOTES"></a>FOOTNOTES:</h2> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote_b" id="footnote_b"></a><a href="#anc_b"><span class="label">[B]</span></a> See <a href="#pl_XXVIII">Plate XXVIII</a>., p. 378, for the triclinium.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote_c" id="footnote_c"></a><a href="#anc_c"><span class="label">[C]</span></a> Cup, or <i>crater</i>, used by the Greeks and Romans at their -repasts, made either of gold, silver, or earthenware (terra -cotta).—<span class="smcap">Hamilton</span>, “<i>Herculaneum</i>.”</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote_d" id="footnote_d"></a><a href="#anc_d"><span class="label">[D]</span></a> See <a href="#pl_XXX">Plate XXX</a>., No. 4.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote_e" id="footnote_e"></a><a href="#anc_e"><span class="label">[E]</span></a> The following descriptions of various banquets and bills of -fare are here introduced, in the anticipation that in after years they -may prove interesting, and induce, for the future, culinary artists to -enlarge and preserve those magiric archives.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote_f" id="footnote_f"></a><a href="#anc_f"><span class="label">[F]</span></a> For the general illustration of the banquet, see the -“<i>Illustrated London News</i>,” of November 2nd, 1850.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote_g" id="footnote_g"></a><a href="#anc_g"><span class="label">[G]</span></a> See <a href="#page_406">page 406</a>.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote_h" id="footnote_h"></a><a href="#anc_h"><span class="label">[H]</span></a> While thus hastily enumerating some modern banquets, we -cannot refrain mentioning that illusive feast of the most effeminate of -Assyrian kings, the plan of which seems to have been imparted by the -magiric genius himself to our celebrated tragedian Charles Kean. Every -night, Sardanapalus, the sensual king of the too joyous Ninevites, -rising from his tomb, with his twenty-six centuries of renown, seats -himself at table, in order to unveil to us long buried splendours, and -confirm our belief in those sumptuous orgies of which history preserves -to us but uncertain details. -</p><p> -The admirable works of Botta, Flandin, Layard, and Bonomi, have allowed -the ingenious major domo who presides at these Assyrian feasts of the -19th century, to invest them with that <i>couleur locale</i> which would -formerly have been sought in vain; and, should the shade of the -voluptuous prince wander amidst the guests seated at his table, it may -still recognise the cup from which he imbibed intoxication and -forgetfulness of his tragic destiny. Altogether, this scenic -representation appears to us the realisation of an extraordinary dream, -and we have been tempted to place this fictitious repast of Sardanapalus -amongst the modern banquets here called to remembrance.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote_i" id="footnote_i"></a><a href="#anc_i"><span class="label">[I]</span></a> Since the above was written, my researches have been -rewarded by success, and I have given a complete description of it in -this work.—<i>See <a href="#page_269">page 269</a>.</i></p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote_j" id="footnote_j"></a><a href="#anc_j"><span class="label">[J]</span></a> No less than £52,000, if Pliny really means the grand -sesterce, which everything leads us to believe.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote_k" id="footnote_k"></a><a href="#anc_k"><span class="label">[K]</span></a> Smallage, a species of parsley, known by the name of -celery, is diuretic and aperitive. The celery, as cultivated now, is -derived from the smallage.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote_l" id="footnote_l"></a><a href="#anc_l"><span class="label">[L]</span></a> It is a question whether they could compete in quality with -those caught in the Severn at the present day.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote_m" id="footnote_m"></a><a href="#anc_m"><span class="label">[M]</span></a> This paper did not resemble our own of the present day; it -was a kind of papyrus, which perfectly resisted all moisture.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote_n" id="footnote_n"></a><a href="#anc_n"><span class="label">[N]</span></a> Pie of meat and flour.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote_o" id="footnote_o"></a><a href="#anc_o"><span class="label">[O]</span></a> See <a href="#pl_XXVII">Plate No. XXVII</a>., No. 4., a plain bottle, with a long -neck.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote_p" id="footnote_p"></a><a href="#anc_p"><span class="label">[P]</span></a> A pound of honey to three pounds of water.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote_q" id="footnote_q"></a><a href="#anc_q"><span class="label">[Q]</span></a> We are not aware that any of our dramatic authors ever gave -such proof of generosity after a triumph as did the poet, Ion. Crowned -at Athens, after the representation of a tragedy, he made a present to -each Athenian of a vase filled with wine of Chios.—“<i>Athen.</i>,” I., 5.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote_r" id="footnote_r"></a><a href="#anc_r"><span class="label">[R]</span></a> <i>Fat meat</i>, according to the vulgate.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote_s" id="footnote_s"></a><a href="#anc_s"><span class="label">[S]</span></a> Dinner given by the Earl of Warwick, at the installation of -an Archbishop of York, in the year 1470.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote_t" id="footnote_t"></a><a href="#anc_t"><span class="label">[T]</span></a> Imperial, a gold coin, current in Russia. The Imperial of -ten roubles (1755) was worth nearly £2 2s. 0d.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote_u" id="footnote_u"></a><a href="#anc_u"><span class="label">[U]</span></a> This lemon-tree wood was a species more precious and more -beautiful than that which we now possess.</p></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_413" id="page_413"></a>{413}</span></p> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote_v" id="footnote_v"></a><a href="#anc_v"><span class="label">[V]</span></a> A grand banquet was held by the Royal Agricultural Society, -at Exeter, on July 20th, 1850, for description of which see end of -volume.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote_w" id="footnote_w"></a><a href="#anc_w"><span class="label">[W]</span></a> Apicius composed the œnogarum (or rather eleogarum, for -wine is not mentioned in his recipe) in the following manner: bruise, in -a mortar, pepper, alisander, coriander, and rue; then add some garum, -honey, and a little oil.<a name="anc_ix_119" id="anc_ix_119"></a><a href="#footnote-ix_119">[IX_119]</a></p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote_x" id="footnote_x"></a><a href="#anc_x"><span class="label">[X]</span></a> The word Ox—<i>Bos</i>—is a general term applied equally by -sacred and profane writers to the bull, ox, and cow.—<span class="smcap">Valla</span>, lib. iv., -cap. 42. It would appear that the castration of bulls originated with -the Greeks, though they and the Romans, their imitators, saw only in -this operation the facility of subduing them, and accustoming them to -the yoke.—<span class="smcap">Geoponics</span>, <span class="smcap">Columella</span>, <span class="smcap">Pliny</span>, &c.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote_y" id="footnote_y"></a><a href="#anc_y"><span class="label">[Y]</span></a> We saw, in 1836, while at Colne Castle, about one ton -weight taken out of the water in a few hours.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote_z" id="footnote_z"></a><a href="#anc_z"><span class="label">[Z]</span></a> A sort of wine, much esteemed.</p></div> -</div> - -<h2><a name="TABLE_OF_REFERENCES" id="TABLE_OF_REFERENCES"></a>TABLE OF REFERENCES<br /><br /> -TO</h2> - -<p class="cb"><span class="eng">Ancient and Modern Writers.</span></p> - -<p class="c">I.</p> - -<p class="c">AGRICULTURE.</p> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-i_1" id="footnote-i_1"></a><a href="#anc_i_1"><span class="label">[I_1]</span></a> Plutarch. De Isid. et Osirid.; Ovid. Fabul. lib. v. 6, 7; -Aurel. Vict. De Orig. Gent. Roman.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-i_2" id="footnote-i_2"></a><a href="#anc_i_2"><span class="label">[I_2]</span></a> Genes. cap. ii. 15.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-i_3" id="footnote-i_3"></a><a href="#anc_i_3"><span class="label">[I_3]</span></a> Ibid. cap. iii. 23.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-i_4" id="footnote-i_4"></a><a href="#anc_i_4"><span class="label">[I_4]</span></a> Cuvier, Discours sur les Révolutions du Globe, 6e. édit. -p. 171.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-i_5" id="footnote-i_5"></a><a href="#anc_i_5"><span class="label">[I_5]</span></a> Judic. cap. vi. 11, 14.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-i_6" id="footnote-i_6"></a><a href="#anc_i_6"><span class="label">[I_6]</span></a> Ruth, cap. ii. 3, 5.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-i_7" id="footnote-i_7"></a><a href="#anc_i_7"><span class="label">[I_7]</span></a> I. Samuel, cap. xi. 5.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-i_8" id="footnote-i_8"></a><a href="#anc_i_8"><span class="label">[I_8]</span></a> I. Reg. cap. xix. 19.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-i_9" id="footnote-i_9"></a><a href="#anc_i_9"><span class="label">[I_9]</span></a> Guénée, Lettres de Quelques Juifs, tom. iii. p. 23, edit. -in 12mo.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-i_10" id="footnote-i_10"></a><a href="#anc_i_10"><span class="label">[I_10]</span></a> Levitic. cap. xxv. 23.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-i_11" id="footnote-i_11"></a><a href="#anc_i_11"><span class="label">[I_11]</span></a> Diodor. Sicul. lib. ii. § 3.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-i_12" id="footnote-i_12"></a><a href="#anc_i_12"><span class="label">[I_12]</span></a> Aristot. De Republ. lib. ii. cap. 7.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-i_13" id="footnote-i_13"></a><a href="#anc_i_13"><span class="label">[I_13]</span></a> Levitic. xxv. 3, 6.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-i_14" id="footnote-i_14"></a><a href="#anc_i_14"><span class="label">[I_14]</span></a> Mishna, passim.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-i_15" id="footnote-i_15"></a><a href="#anc_i_15"><span class="label">[I_15]</span></a> Exod. iii. 8.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-i_16" id="footnote-i_16"></a><a href="#anc_i_16"><span class="label">[I_16]</span></a> Joseph. De Bello Judaic. lib. iii. cap. 8.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-i_17" id="footnote-i_17"></a><a href="#anc_i_17"><span class="label">[I_17]</span></a> Juvenal. Sat. xv. 10.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-i_18" id="footnote-i_18"></a><a href="#anc_i_18"><span class="label">[I_18]</span></a> Genes. cap. xii. 10.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-i_19" id="footnote-i_19"></a><a href="#anc_i_19"><span class="label">[I_19]</span></a> Ibid. cap. xlii. 1, 2, 3.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-i_20" id="footnote-i_20"></a><a href="#anc_i_20"><span class="label">[I_20]</span></a> Varro. De Re Rustic.; Plin. xviii. 7; Plutarch. In -Cæsar.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-i_21" id="footnote-i_21"></a><a href="#anc_i_21"><span class="label">[I_21]</span></a> Plutarch. De Isid.; Tibull. lib. i. eleg. vii. 29.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-i_22" id="footnote-i_22"></a><a href="#anc_i_22"><span class="label">[I_22]</span></a> Fabretti. Inscript. p. 574.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-i_23" id="footnote-i_23"></a><a href="#anc_i_23"><span class="label">[I_23]</span></a> Homer. Il. x. 351; Odyss. viii. 124.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-i_24" id="footnote-i_24"></a><a href="#anc_i_24"><span class="label">[I_24]</span></a> Polydor. Virgil.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-i_25" id="footnote-i_25"></a><a href="#anc_i_25"><span class="label">[I_25]</span></a> Plin. xviii 4.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-i_26" id="footnote-i_26"></a><a href="#anc_i_26"><span class="label">[I_26]</span></a> Aul. Gell. i. 23.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-i_27" id="footnote-i_27"></a><a href="#anc_i_27"><span class="label">[I_27]</span></a> Plin. iv. 3; Flor. i. 2.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-i_28" id="footnote-i_28"></a><a href="#anc_i_28"><span class="label">[I_28]</span></a> Flor. viii. 3.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-i_29" id="footnote-i_29"></a><a href="#anc_i_29"><span class="label">[I_29]</span></a> Columell. ii. 5.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-i_30" id="footnote-i_30"></a><a href="#anc_i_30"><span class="label">[I_30]</span></a> Ibid. ii. 2.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-i_31" id="footnote-i_31"></a><a href="#anc_i_31"><span class="label">[I_31]</span></a> Varro. i. 29.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-i_32" id="footnote-i_32"></a><a href="#anc_i_32"><span class="label">[I_32]</span></a> Encyclopédie Méthodique; Antiquités Planches.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-i_33" id="footnote-i_33"></a><a href="#anc_i_33"><span class="label">[I_33]</span></a> Cato. De Re Rustica, x. xi.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-i_34" id="footnote-i_34"></a><a href="#anc_i_34"><span class="label">[I_34]</span></a> Strutt, Manners and Customs, &c., vol. i. p. 32, fig. -vii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-i_35" id="footnote-i_35"></a><a href="#anc_i_35"><span class="label">[I_35]</span></a> Plin. xvii. 5, 8.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-i_36" id="footnote-i_36"></a><a href="#anc_i_36"><span class="label">[I_36]</span></a> Varro. i. 13, 38; Columell. ii. 5, 6, 9.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-i_37" id="footnote-i_37"></a><a href="#anc_i_37"><span class="label">[I_37]</span></a> Geoponic. xii. 4; Virgil. Georg. i. 81; Plin. xvii. 9.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-i_38" id="footnote-i_38"></a><a href="#anc_i_38"><span class="label">[I_38]</span></a> Cato. cap. xxx.; Plin. xviii, 53; Varro. ii. 2.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-i_39" id="footnote-i_39"></a><a href="#anc_i_39"><span class="label">[I_39]</span></a> Column. Trajan. tab. 83.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-i_40" id="footnote-i_40"></a><a href="#anc_i_40"><span class="label">[I_40]</span></a> Passerii Lucern. Fictil. tab. 9.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-i_41" id="footnote-i_41"></a><a href="#anc_i_41"><span class="label">[I_41]</span></a> Gessner. ii. tab. 32, no. 75.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-i_42" id="footnote-i_42"></a><a href="#anc_i_42"><span class="label">[I_42]</span></a> Mongez. Encyclop. Méthod. Antiquit. Planches.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-i_43" id="footnote-i_43"></a><a href="#anc_i_43"><span class="label">[I_43]</span></a> De Re Rustica, i. 50.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-i_44" id="footnote-i_44"></a><a href="#anc_i_44"><span class="label">[I_44]</span></a> Virgil. Georg. lib. iv.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-i_45" id="footnote-i_45"></a><a href="#anc_i_45"><span class="label">[I_45]</span></a> Plin. viii. 30.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-i_46" id="footnote-i_46"></a><a href="#anc_i_46"><span class="label">[I_46]</span></a> Columell. ii. 21.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-i_47" id="footnote-i_47"></a><a href="#anc_i_47"><span class="label">[I_47]</span></a> Isaias, xxviii. 27.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-i_48" id="footnote-i_48"></a><a href="#anc_i_48"><span class="label">[I_48]</span></a> Herculan. v. 95.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-i_49" id="footnote-i_49"></a><a href="#anc_i_49"><span class="label">[I_49]</span></a> Geoponic. ii. 27, 31; Plin. xviii. 30; Varro. i. 57; -Columell. i. 6.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-i_50" id="footnote-i_50"></a><a href="#anc_i_50"><span class="label">[I_50]</span></a> Dioscorid.; Diodor. Sicul.; Dio. Nicæus.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-i_51" id="footnote-i_51"></a><a href="#anc_i_51"><span class="label">[I_51]</span></a> Id.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-i_52" id="footnote-i_52"></a><a href="#anc_i_52"><span class="label">[I_52]</span></a> Strab.; Plin.; Strutt, Manners, &c., of the Ancient -Britons, vol. i. p. 7.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-i_53" id="footnote-i_53"></a><a href="#anc_i_53"><span class="label">[I_53]</span></a> Strutt, Ibid. p. 43.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-i_54" id="footnote-i_54"></a><a href="#anc_i_54"><span class="label">[I_54]</span></a> Id. Ibid. pp. 43, 44.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-i_55" id="footnote-i_55"></a><a href="#anc_i_55"><span class="label">[I_55]</span></a> Fontan. tom. ii. liv. iii. titre 33, p. 1190.</p></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_414" id="page_414"></a>{414}</span></p> - -<p class="c">II.</p> - -<p class="c">CEREALS.</p> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ii_1" id="footnote-ii_1"></a><a href="#anc_ii_1"><span class="label">[II_1]</span></a> Tit. Liv. Decad. i. lib. 1.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ii_2" id="footnote-ii_2"></a><a href="#anc_ii_2"><span class="label">[II_2]</span></a> Plin. xviii. 8.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ii_3" id="footnote-ii_3"></a><a href="#anc_ii_3"><span class="label">[II_3]</span></a> Cato. R. R. cap. 86.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ii_4" id="footnote-ii_4"></a><a href="#anc_ii_4"><span class="label">[II_4]</span></a> Virgil. Georgic. i. 210.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ii_5" id="footnote-ii_5"></a><a href="#anc_ii_5"><span class="label">[II_5]</span></a> <span class="smcap">II.</span> Samuel, cap. xvii. 28.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ii_6" id="footnote-ii_6"></a><a href="#anc_ii_6"><span class="label">[II_6]</span></a> Sueton. In August. xiv.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ii_7" id="footnote-ii_7"></a><a href="#anc_ii_7"><span class="label">[II_7]</span></a> Exod. cap. ix. 31.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ii_8" id="footnote-ii_8"></a><a href="#anc_ii_8"><span class="label">[II_8]</span></a> Virgil. Georgic. i. 216.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ii_9" id="footnote-ii_9"></a><a href="#anc_ii_9"><span class="label">[II_9]</span></a> Xenophon. De Expedit. Cyri. lib. vii.; Plin. xviii. 7.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ii_10" id="footnote-ii_10"></a><a href="#anc_ii_10"><span class="label">[II_10]</span></a> Geoponic. ii. 38.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ii_11" id="footnote-ii_11"></a><a href="#anc_ii_11"><span class="label">[II_11]</span></a> Plin. xviii. 40.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ii_12" id="footnote-ii_12"></a><a href="#anc_ii_12"><span class="label">[II_12]</span></a> Id. xviii. 16.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ii_13" id="footnote-ii_13"></a><a href="#anc_ii_13"><span class="label">[II_13]</span></a> Dioscorid. ii. 16.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ii_14" id="footnote-ii_14"></a><a href="#anc_ii_14"><span class="label">[II_14]</span></a> Virgil. Georgic. i. 153.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ii_15" id="footnote-ii_15"></a><a href="#anc_ii_15"><span class="label">[II_15]</span></a> Plin. xviii. 17.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ii_16" id="footnote-ii_16"></a><a href="#anc_ii_16"><span class="label">[II_16]</span></a> Id. xviii. 7, 10.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ii_17" id="footnote-ii_17"></a><a href="#anc_ii_17"><span class="label">[II_17]</span></a> Dioscorid. ii. 117.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ii_18" id="footnote-ii_18"></a><a href="#anc_ii_18"><span class="label">[II_18]</span></a> Galen. De Facultat. Aliment. i. 17.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ii_19" id="footnote-ii_19"></a><a href="#anc_ii_19"><span class="label">[II_19]</span></a> Herodot. ii. 36.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ii_20" id="footnote-ii_20"></a><a href="#anc_ii_20"><span class="label">[II_20]</span></a> Dioscorid. lib. ii. cap. 3; lib. iii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ii_21" id="footnote-ii_21"></a><a href="#anc_ii_21"><span class="label">[II_21]</span></a> Plin. xxii. 25.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ii_22" id="footnote-ii_22"></a><a href="#anc_ii_22"><span class="label">[II_22]</span></a> Id. ii. 7.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ii_23" id="footnote-ii_23"></a><a href="#anc_ii_23"><span class="label">[II_23]</span></a> Petron. cap. i.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ii_24" id="footnote-ii_24"></a><a href="#anc_ii_24"><span class="label">[II_24]</span></a> Plaut Pœn. act. i. sc. 2, 112.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ii_25" id="footnote-ii_25"></a><a href="#anc_ii_25"><span class="label">[II_25]</span></a> Leg. xii. Tabul. pars ii. L. ix.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ii_26" id="footnote-ii_26"></a><a href="#anc_ii_26"><span class="label">[II_26]</span></a> Ulp. 50 Dig. t. v. l. 2; Arc. ad. Charis. D. 50, t. iv. -l. 18, § 5; Wolfius, t. v. Oper. Demosth. f. 358.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ii_27" id="footnote-ii_27"></a><a href="#anc_ii_27"><span class="label">[II_27]</span></a> Samuel Petit. Comment. lib. v. tit. 5.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ii_28" id="footnote-ii_28"></a><a href="#anc_ii_28"><span class="label">[II_28]</span></a> Plin. lib. xviii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ii_29" id="footnote-ii_29"></a><a href="#anc_ii_29"><span class="label">[II_29]</span></a> Dio. lib. xi. 3; Isidor. lib. ult. cap. 14.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ii_30" id="footnote-ii_30"></a><a href="#anc_ii_30"><span class="label">[II_30]</span></a> Panem et Circenses.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ii_31" id="footnote-ii_31"></a><a href="#anc_ii_31"><span class="label">[II_31]</span></a> Demosth. In Phorm.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ii_32" id="footnote-ii_32"></a><a href="#anc_ii_32"><span class="label">[II_32]</span></a> Plutarch. In Cat. Maj.; Cic. in Verrem.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ii_33" id="footnote-ii_33"></a><a href="#anc_ii_33"><span class="label">[II_33]</span></a> Sueton. In Jul. Cæsar. cap. 41.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ii_34" id="footnote-ii_34"></a><a href="#anc_ii_34"><span class="label">[II_34]</span></a> Dio Cassius. lib. xliii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ii_35" id="footnote-ii_35"></a><a href="#anc_ii_35"><span class="label">[II_35]</span></a> Id. lib. lv.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ii_36" id="footnote-ii_36"></a><a href="#anc_ii_36"><span class="label">[II_36]</span></a> Sueton. In Neron. cap. 10; Tacit lib. xv.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ii_37" id="footnote-ii_37"></a><a href="#anc_ii_37"><span class="label">[II_37]</span></a> Spartian. In Sever.; Liv. lib. ii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ii_38" id="footnote-ii_38"></a><a href="#anc_ii_38"><span class="label">[II_38]</span></a> Socrat. ii. 10, 13; Sozomen. iii. 6.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ii_39" id="footnote-ii_39"></a><a href="#anc_ii_39"><span class="label">[II_39]</span></a> Cic. Pro Leg. Manil.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ii_40" id="footnote-ii_40"></a><a href="#anc_ii_40"><span class="label">[II_40]</span></a> Liv. lib. xxxiii.; Cic. Ad Attic. ep. ix. et seqq.; -Varro. R. R.; Plin. xviii. 7.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ii_41" id="footnote-ii_41"></a><a href="#anc_ii_41"><span class="label">[II_41]</span></a> Stow’s Chronicles, p. 167.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ii_42" id="footnote-ii_42"></a><a href="#anc_ii_42"><span class="label">[II_42]</span></a> Fabian. vol. ii. p. 30.</p></div> - -<p class="c">III.</p> - -<p class="c">GRINDING OF CORN.</p> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iii_1" id="footnote-iii_1"></a><a href="#anc_iii_1"><span class="label">[III_1]</span></a> Apud Athenæum.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iii_2" id="footnote-iii_2"></a><a href="#anc_iii_2"><span class="label">[III_2]</span></a> Ovid. Fast. iv. 399.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iii_3" id="footnote-iii_3"></a><a href="#anc_iii_3"><span class="label">[III_3]</span></a> Tibull. ii. eleg. 3.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iii_4" id="footnote-iii_4"></a><a href="#anc_iii_4"><span class="label">[III_4]</span></a> Pausan. In Arcad.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iii_5" id="footnote-iii_5"></a><a href="#anc_iii_5"><span class="label">[III_5]</span></a> Virgil. Georg. iv. 81.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iii_6" id="footnote-iii_6"></a><a href="#anc_iii_6"><span class="label">[III_6]</span></a> De Mensura Cibi.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iii_7" id="footnote-iii_7"></a><a href="#anc_iii_7"><span class="label">[III_7]</span></a> Lucret. v. 14.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iii_8" id="footnote-iii_8"></a><a href="#anc_iii_8"><span class="label">[III_8]</span></a> Plin. vii. 51.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iii_9" id="footnote-iii_9"></a><a href="#anc_iii_9"><span class="label">[III_9]</span></a> Encyclop. Méthod. Antiquit. Planches.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iii_10" id="footnote-iii_10"></a><a href="#anc_iii_10"><span class="label">[III_10]</span></a> Varro. apud Nonnium.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iii_11" id="footnote-iii_11"></a><a href="#anc_iii_11"><span class="label">[III_11]</span></a> Plin. xviii. 3.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iii_12" id="footnote-iii_12"></a><a href="#anc_iii_12"><span class="label">[III_12]</span></a> Polyb. i. 22.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iii_13" id="footnote-iii_13"></a><a href="#anc_iii_13"><span class="label">[III_13]</span></a> Deuteronom. xxiv. 6.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iii_14" id="footnote-iii_14"></a><a href="#anc_iii_14"><span class="label">[III_14]</span></a> Exod. xi. 5.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iii_15" id="footnote-iii_15"></a><a href="#anc_iii_15"><span class="label">[III_15]</span></a> Numer. xi. 8.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iii_16" id="footnote-iii_16"></a><a href="#anc_iii_16"><span class="label">[III_16]</span></a> Pausanias, v. μυλη, Histor. Laconicor.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iii_17" id="footnote-iii_17"></a><a href="#anc_iii_17"><span class="label">[III_17]</span></a> Homer. Odyss.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iii_18" id="footnote-iii_18"></a><a href="#anc_iii_18"><span class="label">[III_18]</span></a> Id. Ibid. vii. 105.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iii_19" id="footnote-iii_19"></a><a href="#anc_iii_19"><span class="label">[III_19]</span></a> Plin. xviii. 11.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iii_20" id="footnote-iii_20"></a><a href="#anc_iii_20"><span class="label">[III_20]</span></a> Gell. xxxi. 3; Terent. Andr. act. i. sc. 2.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iii_21" id="footnote-iii_21"></a><a href="#anc_iii_21"><span class="label">[III_21]</span></a> Gell. xiii. 22.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iii_22" id="footnote-iii_22"></a><a href="#anc_iii_22"><span class="label">[III_22]</span></a> Virg. Georg. i., et ibi Servius, v. 267, 274.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iii_23" id="footnote-iii_23"></a><a href="#anc_iii_23"><span class="label">[III_23]</span></a> Ovid. In Fastis; Rosin. Antiquit, Roman, iv. 10.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iii_24" id="footnote-iii_24"></a><a href="#anc_iii_24"><span class="label">[III_24]</span></a> Paschal. Coron. p. 260.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iii_25" id="footnote-iii_25"></a><a href="#anc_iii_25"><span class="label">[III_25]</span></a> Rosin. loc. cit.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iii_26" id="footnote-iii_26"></a><a href="#anc_iii_26"><span class="label">[III_26]</span></a> Apul. Milesiar. lib. ix.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iii_27" id="footnote-iii_27"></a><a href="#anc_iii_27"><span class="label">[III_27]</span></a> Terent. Andria. act. i. sc. 2.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iii_28" id="footnote-iii_28"></a><a href="#anc_iii_28"><span class="label">[III_28]</span></a> Meursius, Criticar. Exercitat. part i. cap. 9.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iii_29" id="footnote-iii_29"></a><a href="#anc_iii_29"><span class="label">[III_29]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iii_30" id="footnote-iii_30"></a><a href="#anc_iii_30"><span class="label">[III_30]</span></a> Gell. iii. 3.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iii_31" id="footnote-iii_31"></a><a href="#anc_iii_31"><span class="label">[III_31]</span></a> Vitruv. x. 10.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iii_32" id="footnote-iii_32"></a><a href="#anc_iii_32"><span class="label">[III_32]</span></a> Plin. xviii. 10.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iii_33" id="footnote-iii_33"></a><a href="#anc_iii_33"><span class="label">[III_33]</span></a> Vid. Turneb. Salmas, et Perrault, section Vitruve.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iii_34" id="footnote-iii_34"></a><a href="#anc_iii_34"><span class="label">[III_34]</span></a> Goetzius, De Pistrinis Veterum.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iii_35" id="footnote-iii_35"></a><a href="#anc_iii_35"><span class="label">[III_35]</span></a> Strabo, Geograph.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iii_36" id="footnote-iii_36"></a><a href="#anc_iii_36"><span class="label">[III_36]</span></a> De Canone Frumentar, Urb. Rom. L. iv. Cassiodor. -Variar. iii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iii_37" id="footnote-iii_37"></a><a href="#anc_iii_37"><span class="label">[III_37]</span></a> 5th century.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iii_38" id="footnote-iii_38"></a><a href="#anc_iii_38"><span class="label">[III_38]</span></a> Decernimus de Aquæductu, L. x.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iii_39" id="footnote-iii_39"></a><a href="#anc_iii_39"><span class="label">[III_39]</span></a> Anno 536.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iii_40" id="footnote-iii_40"></a><a href="#anc_iii_40"><span class="label">[III_40]</span></a> Procop. De Bello Gothico. i. 15.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iii_41" id="footnote-iii_41"></a><a href="#anc_iii_41"><span class="label">[III_41]</span></a> Vitruv. x. 5; Schneider; Palladius, R. R. i. 42.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iii_42" id="footnote-iii_42"></a><a href="#anc_iii_42"><span class="label">[III_42]</span></a> Plin. xxxvi. 30.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iii_43" id="footnote-iii_43"></a><a href="#anc_iii_43"><span class="label">[III_43]</span></a> Odyss. xx. 105, 119; Cato. R. R. cap. 56.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iii_44" id="footnote-iii_44"></a><a href="#anc_iii_44"><span class="label">[III_44]</span></a> Leges Ethelberti.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iii_45" id="footnote-iii_45"></a><a href="#anc_iii_45"><span class="label">[III_45]</span></a> Strutt, Manners, &c., vol. ii., p. 13.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iii_46" id="footnote-iii_46"></a><a href="#anc_iii_46"><span class="label">[III_46]</span></a> Apud Strutt, ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iii_47" id="footnote-iii_47"></a><a href="#anc_iii_47"><span class="label">[III_47]</span></a> Ibid. p. 14.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iii_48" id="footnote-iii_48"></a><a href="#anc_iii_48"><span class="label">[III_48]</span></a> Heringius.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iii_49" id="footnote-iii_49"></a><a href="#anc_iii_49"><span class="label">[III_49]</span></a> Monast. Anglic. t. i. p. 316; t. ii. p. 459; t. iii. -p. 107.</p></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_415" id="page_415"></a>{415}</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<p class="c">IV.</p> - -<p class="c">MANIPULATION OF FLOUR.</p> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iv_1" id="footnote-iv_1"></a><a href="#anc_iv_1"><span class="label">[IV_1]</span></a> Montaigne, Essais.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iv_2" id="footnote-iv_2"></a><a href="#anc_iv_2"><span class="label">[IV_2]</span></a> Genes. xviii. 6.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iv_3" id="footnote-iv_3"></a><a href="#anc_iv_3"><span class="label">[IV_3]</span></a> Exod. xii. 39.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iv_4" id="footnote-iv_4"></a><a href="#anc_iv_4"><span class="label">[IV_4]</span></a> Reg. xix. 6.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iv_5" id="footnote-iv_5"></a><a href="#anc_iv_5"><span class="label">[IV_5]</span></a> Levitic. vii. 9.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iv_6" id="footnote-iv_6"></a><a href="#anc_iv_6"><span class="label">[IV_6]</span></a> Calmet. Bible, tom. vi. p. 257, fol.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iv_7" id="footnote-iv_7"></a><a href="#anc_iv_7"><span class="label">[IV_7]</span></a> Waserus, De Antiq. Mensuris, ii. 5.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iv_8" id="footnote-iv_8"></a><a href="#anc_iv_8"><span class="label">[IV_8]</span></a> Genes. iii. 19.; Exod. ii. 20; xviii. 12; et passim.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iv_9" id="footnote-iv_9"></a><a href="#anc_iv_9"><span class="label">[IV_9]</span></a> Calmet. loc. cit.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iv_10" id="footnote-iv_10"></a><a href="#anc_iv_10"><span class="label">[IV_10]</span></a> Fleury, Mœurs des Israélites, chap. 12.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iv_11" id="footnote-iv_11"></a><a href="#anc_iv_11"><span class="label">[IV_11]</span></a> Ruth, ii. 14.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iv_12" id="footnote-iv_12"></a><a href="#anc_iv_12"><span class="label">[IV_12]</span></a> Calmet. loc. cit.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iv_13" id="footnote-iv_13"></a><a href="#anc_iv_13"><span class="label">[IV_13]</span></a> Plin. xviii. 11.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iv_14" id="footnote-iv_14"></a><a href="#anc_iv_14"><span class="label">[IV_14]</span></a> Exod. xii. 15, 17 to 20, 34, 39.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iv_15" id="footnote-iv_15"></a><a href="#anc_iv_15"><span class="label">[IV_15]</span></a> Levitic. vii. 9.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iv_16" id="footnote-iv_16"></a><a href="#anc_iv_16"><span class="label">[IV_16]</span></a> Genes. xv. 17.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iv_17" id="footnote-iv_17"></a><a href="#anc_iv_17"><span class="label">[IV_17]</span></a> Levitic. ii. 4; vii. 9; xi. 35; xxvi. 26; Calmet. -Bible, tom. vi.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iv_18" id="footnote-iv_18"></a><a href="#anc_iv_18"><span class="label">[IV_18]</span></a> Genes. xl. 1, et seqq.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iv_19" id="footnote-iv_19"></a><a href="#anc_iv_19"><span class="label">[IV_19]</span></a> Cassiodor. Variar. vi.; Olai Magni Hist. xiii. 13; -Panis a Pane.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iv_20" id="footnote-iv_20"></a><a href="#anc_iv_20"><span class="label">[IV_20]</span></a> Cic. Pro Cluentio; Isidor. xx. 2.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iv_21" id="footnote-iv_21"></a><a href="#anc_iv_21"><span class="label">[IV_21]</span></a> Paître—Manger.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iv_22" id="footnote-iv_22"></a><a href="#anc_iv_22"><span class="label">[IV_22]</span></a> Nonnius Marcellus, De Prop. Sermon.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iv_23" id="footnote-iv_23"></a><a href="#anc_iv_23"><span class="label">[IV_23]</span></a> Athen. iii. 13.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iv_24" id="footnote-iv_24"></a><a href="#anc_iv_24"><span class="label">[IV_24]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iv_25" id="footnote-iv_25"></a><a href="#anc_iv_25"><span class="label">[IV_25]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iv_26" id="footnote-iv_26"></a><a href="#anc_iv_26"><span class="label">[IV_26]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iv_27" id="footnote-iv_27"></a><a href="#anc_iv_27"><span class="label">[IV_27]</span></a> IV-Aristoph. Ran. v. 856.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iv_28" id="footnote-iv_28"></a><a href="#anc_iv_28"><span class="label">[IV_28]</span></a> Galen. De Aliment. Facultat. lib. i.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iv_29" id="footnote-iv_29"></a><a href="#anc_iv_29"><span class="label">[IV_29]</span></a> Athen. iii. 29.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iv_30" id="footnote-iv_30"></a><a href="#anc_iv_30"><span class="label">[IV_30]</span></a> Cæl. Rhodig. xxvi.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iv_31" id="footnote-iv_31"></a><a href="#anc_iv_31"><span class="label">[IV_31]</span></a> Athen. loc. cit.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iv_32" id="footnote-iv_32"></a><a href="#anc_iv_32"><span class="label">[IV_32]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iv_33" id="footnote-iv_33"></a><a href="#anc_iv_33"><span class="label">[IV_33]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iv_34" id="footnote-iv_34"></a><a href="#anc_iv_34"><span class="label">[IV_34]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iv_35" id="footnote-iv_35"></a><a href="#anc_iv_35"><span class="label">[IV_35]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iv_36" id="footnote-iv_36"></a><a href="#anc_iv_36"><span class="label">[IV_36]</span></a> Id. iii. 13.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iv_37" id="footnote-iv_37"></a><a href="#anc_iv_37"><span class="label">[IV_37]</span></a> Plin. xviii. 7.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iv_38" id="footnote-iv_38"></a><a href="#anc_iv_38"><span class="label">[IV_38]</span></a> Athen. loc. cit.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iv_39" id="footnote-iv_39"></a><a href="#anc_iv_39"><span class="label">[IV_39]</span></a> Plaut. Pœn. et Mostellar; Plin. xviii. 8.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iv_40" id="footnote-iv_40"></a><a href="#anc_iv_40"><span class="label">[IV_40]</span></a> Tit. Liv. Dec. i. lib. v. cap. 48—Florus.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iv_41" id="footnote-iv_41"></a><a href="#anc_iv_41"><span class="label">[IV_41]</span></a> Galen. De Aliment. Facultat. i. 18.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iv_42" id="footnote-iv_42"></a><a href="#anc_iv_42"><span class="label">[IV_42]</span></a> Festus; Lactant. Divinar. Institut. cap. 20; Ovid. -Fast. ii. 525.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iv_43" id="footnote-iv_43"></a><a href="#anc_iv_43"><span class="label">[IV_43]</span></a> Plin. xviii. II.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iv_44" id="footnote-iv_44"></a><a href="#anc_iv_44"><span class="label">[IV_44]</span></a> Pomp. Sabin. In Moret. Virgil.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iv_45" id="footnote-iv_45"></a><a href="#anc_iv_45"><span class="label">[IV_45]</span></a> Maximar. C. De Excusat. Muner. L. xii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iv_46" id="footnote-iv_46"></a><a href="#anc_iv_46"><span class="label">[IV_46]</span></a> Vitruv. Architect. vi. 9.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iv_47" id="footnote-iv_47"></a><a href="#anc_iv_47"><span class="label">[IV_47]</span></a> Plin. xviii. 10.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iv_48" id="footnote-iv_48"></a><a href="#anc_iv_48"><span class="label">[IV_48]</span></a> Plin. xviii. 11.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iv_49" id="footnote-iv_49"></a><a href="#anc_iv_49"><span class="label">[IV_49]</span></a> Aurel. Vict.; si quis De Pistorib. L. ii.; si cui, -Ibid. L. iv.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iv_50" id="footnote-iv_50"></a><a href="#anc_iv_50"><span class="label">[IV_50]</span></a> Optio, Ibid. L. iv.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iv_51" id="footnote-iv_51"></a><a href="#anc_iv_51"><span class="label">[IV_51]</span></a> Nulli Pistori, Ibid. L. xxi.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iv_52" id="footnote-iv_52"></a><a href="#anc_iv_52"><span class="label">[IV_52]</span></a> Ne Quis, Ibid. L. xv.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iv_53" id="footnote-iv_53"></a><a href="#anc_iv_53"><span class="label">[IV_53]</span></a> Quicumque, Ibid. L. xxii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iv_54" id="footnote-iv_54"></a><a href="#anc_iv_54"><span class="label">[IV_54]</span></a> Gell. xv. 19.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iv_55" id="footnote-iv_55"></a><a href="#anc_iv_55"><span class="label">[IV_55]</span></a> Brod. Miscellan. v. 21; Plin. xix. 1; Columell. v. 10; -Petron. 85.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iv_56" id="footnote-iv_56"></a><a href="#anc_iv_56"><span class="label">[IV_56]</span></a> Juvenal. Sat. x. 82.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iv_57" id="footnote-iv_57"></a><a href="#anc_iv_57"><span class="label">[IV_57]</span></a> Ammian. Marcellin. xxvi.; Sueton. In Claud. cap. 18.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iv_58" id="footnote-iv_58"></a><a href="#anc_iv_58"><span class="label">[IV_58]</span></a> Plin. xviii. 7, 9, 10, 11.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iv_59" id="footnote-iv_59"></a><a href="#anc_iv_59"><span class="label">[IV_59]</span></a> Id. xix. 4.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iv_60" id="footnote-iv_60"></a><a href="#anc_iv_60"><span class="label">[IV_60]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iv_61" id="footnote-iv_61"></a><a href="#anc_iv_61"><span class="label">[IV_61]</span></a> Gronovius.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iv_62" id="footnote-iv_62"></a><a href="#anc_iv_62"><span class="label">[IV_62]</span></a> Richard. Gorræi. Annal. Principio.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iv_63" id="footnote-iv_63"></a><a href="#anc_iv_63"><span class="label">[IV_63]</span></a> Plin. xviii. 11.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iv_64" id="footnote-iv_64"></a><a href="#anc_iv_64"><span class="label">[IV_64]</span></a> A.D. 75.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iv_65" id="footnote-iv_65"></a><a href="#anc_iv_65"><span class="label">[IV_65]</span></a> Ovid. Fast. vi., 260, et seqq.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iv_66" id="footnote-iv_66"></a><a href="#anc_iv_66"><span class="label">[IV_66]</span></a> Pitt. Ercolan. tom. ii. p. 141.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iv_67" id="footnote-iv_67"></a><a href="#anc_iv_67"><span class="label">[IV_67]</span></a> Gronovius.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iv_68" id="footnote-iv_68"></a><a href="#anc_iv_68"><span class="label">[IV_68]</span></a> Cels. ii. 18; Galen. De Facultat. Aliment. i.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iv_69" id="footnote-iv_69"></a><a href="#anc_iv_69"><span class="label">[IV_69]</span></a> Id. iv. 6.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iv_70" id="footnote-iv_70"></a><a href="#anc_iv_70"><span class="label">[IV_70]</span></a> Ammian. Marcellin. xvii. 17; Senec. Epist. 83.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iv_71" id="footnote-iv_71"></a><a href="#anc_iv_71"><span class="label">[IV_71]</span></a> Athen. iii. 28.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iv_72" id="footnote-iv_72"></a><a href="#anc_iv_72"><span class="label">[IV_72]</span></a> Encyclop. Méthodiq. Antiquités.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iv_73" id="footnote-iv_73"></a><a href="#anc_iv_73"><span class="label">[IV_73]</span></a> Plaut. Aulul. act. ii. sc. 9, ver. 4; Plin. xviii. 11.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iv_74" id="footnote-iv_74"></a><a href="#anc_iv_74"><span class="label">[IV_74]</span></a> Encyclop. Méthod. Antiq.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iv_75" id="footnote-iv_75"></a><a href="#anc_iv_75"><span class="label">[IV_75]</span></a> Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iv_76" id="footnote-iv_76"></a><a href="#anc_iv_76"><span class="label">[IV_76]</span></a> Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iv_77" id="footnote-iv_77"></a><a href="#anc_iv_77"><span class="label">[IV_77]</span></a> Strutt, loc. cit.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iv_78" id="footnote-iv_78"></a><a href="#anc_iv_78"><span class="label">[IV_78]</span></a> Delamarre, Traité de la Police.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iv_79" id="footnote-iv_79"></a><a href="#anc_iv_79"><span class="label">[IV_79]</span></a> Réglement du 20 Mars, 1635.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-iv_80" id="footnote-iv_80"></a><a href="#anc_iv_80"><span class="label">[IV_80]</span></a> Monteil. Hist. des Français, tom, ii., pp. 47, 48.</p></div> - -<p class="c">V.</p> - -<p class="c">FRUMENTA.</p> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-v_1" id="footnote-v_1"></a><a href="#anc_v_1"><span class="label">[V_1]</span></a> Servius.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-v_2" id="footnote-v_2"></a><a href="#anc_v_2"><span class="label">[V_2]</span></a> Theophrast. ex versione Gazæ.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-v_3" id="footnote-v_3"></a><a href="#anc_v_3"><span class="label">[V_3]</span></a> Hippocrat. De Victûs Ration.; Galen. De Aliment. Facult. -lib. i.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-v_4" id="footnote-v_4"></a><a href="#anc_v_4"><span class="label">[V_4]</span></a> Plin. xviii. 7; xx. 25; Bruyerin. v. 7; et seqq.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-v_5" id="footnote-v_5"></a><a href="#anc_v_5"><span class="label">[V_5]</span></a> Deuteron. viii. 8.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-v_6" id="footnote-v_6"></a><a href="#anc_v_6"><span class="label">[V_6]</span></a> <span class="smcap">II.</span> Samuel, xvii. 28.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-v_7" id="footnote-v_7"></a><a href="#anc_v_7"><span class="label">[V_7]</span></a> Paralipomen. ii. 9.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-v_8" id="footnote-v_8"></a><a href="#anc_v_8"><span class="label">[V_8]</span></a> Sueton. In August. cap. 14.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-v_9" id="footnote-v_9"></a><a href="#anc_v_9"><span class="label">[V_9]</span></a> Theophrast.; Menand.; Plin. xviii. 7.</p></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_416" id="page_416"></a>{416}</span></p> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-v_10" id="footnote-v_10"></a><a href="#anc_v_10"><span class="label">[V_10]</span></a> Galen. De Aliment. Facultat. lib. i.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-v_11" id="footnote-v_11"></a><a href="#anc_v_11"><span class="label">[V_11]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-v_12" id="footnote-v_12"></a><a href="#anc_v_12"><span class="label">[V_12]</span></a> Athen. iii. 36.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-v_13" id="footnote-v_13"></a><a href="#anc_v_13"><span class="label">[V_13]</span></a> Bruyerin. v. 6.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-v_14" id="footnote-v_14"></a><a href="#anc_v_14"><span class="label">[V_14]</span></a> Hippocrat. De Victus Ratione.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-v_15" id="footnote-v_15"></a><a href="#anc_v_15"><span class="label">[V_15]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-v_16" id="footnote-v_16"></a><a href="#anc_v_16"><span class="label">[V_16]</span></a> Plin. xviii. 17; Villichius, cap. xii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-v_17" id="footnote-v_17"></a><a href="#anc_v_17"><span class="label">[V_17]</span></a> Colman, Lexicon; Meursius.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-v_18" id="footnote-v_18"></a><a href="#anc_v_18"><span class="label">[V_18]</span></a> Cato. R. R. cap. lxxxvi.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-v_19" id="footnote-v_19"></a><a href="#anc_v_19"><span class="label">[V_19]</span></a> Galen. De Aliment. Facultat. i. 17; Bruyerin. v. 21.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-v_20" id="footnote-v_20"></a><a href="#anc_v_20"><span class="label">[V_20]</span></a> Varro. De Ling. Lat.; Columell. ii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-v_21" id="footnote-v_21"></a><a href="#anc_v_21"><span class="label">[V_21]</span></a> Virgil. Georg. lib. iv.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-v_22" id="footnote-v_22"></a><a href="#anc_v_22"><span class="label">[V_22]</span></a> Plin. xviii. 7.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-v_23" id="footnote-v_23"></a><a href="#anc_v_23"><span class="label">[V_23]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-v_24" id="footnote-v_24"></a><a href="#anc_v_24"><span class="label">[V_24]</span></a> Dioscorid. ii. 120.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-v_25" id="footnote-v_25"></a><a href="#anc_v_25"><span class="label">[V_25]</span></a> Plin. xviii. 24.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-v_26" id="footnote-v_26"></a><a href="#anc_v_26"><span class="label">[V_26]</span></a> Plin. Jun. Epist. ad Septic. Clar.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-v_27" id="footnote-v_27"></a><a href="#anc_v_27"><span class="label">[V_27]</span></a> Cato. R. R.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-v_28" id="footnote-v_28"></a><a href="#anc_v_28"><span class="label">[V_28]</span></a> Columell. xii. 55; Cato. cap. 86.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-v_29" id="footnote-v_29"></a><a href="#anc_v_29"><span class="label">[V_29]</span></a> Plin. xviii. 7; Bruyerin. v. 23; Galen. De Aliment. -Facultat. lib. i.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-v_30" id="footnote-v_30"></a><a href="#anc_v_30"><span class="label">[V_30]</span></a> J. A. St. John, The Hindoos, vol. i. p. 357.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-v_31" id="footnote-v_31"></a><a href="#anc_v_31"><span class="label">[V_31]</span></a> Martial.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-v_32" id="footnote-v_32"></a><a href="#anc_v_32"><span class="label">[V_32]</span></a> Athen. vii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-v_33" id="footnote-v_33"></a><a href="#anc_v_33"><span class="label">[V_33]</span></a> Plat. in Gorg.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-v_34" id="footnote-v_34"></a><a href="#anc_v_34"><span class="label">[V_34]</span></a> Athen. i. 13.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-v_35" id="footnote-v_35"></a><a href="#anc_v_35"><span class="label">[V_35]</span></a> Andrieux, “Les rois malaisément souffrent qu’on leur -résiste.”</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-v_36" id="footnote-v_36"></a><a href="#anc_v_36"><span class="label">[V_36]</span></a> Athen. 13.</p></div> - -<p class="c">VI.</p> - -<p class="c">GRAINS: SEEDS.</p> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-vi_1" id="footnote-vi_1"></a><a href="#anc_vi_1"><span class="label">[VI_1]</span></a> Plin. xx. 22.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-vi_2" id="footnote-vi_2"></a><a href="#anc_vi_2"><span class="label">[VI_2]</span></a> Nonnius, De Re Cibariâ, i. 14.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-vi_3" id="footnote-vi_3"></a><a href="#anc_vi_3"><span class="label">[VI_3]</span></a> Plin. xix. 8, 22.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-vi_4" id="footnote-vi_4"></a><a href="#anc_vi_4"><span class="label">[VI_4]</span></a> Matth. xiii. 31; xvii. 20; Marc. iv. 31; Luc. xiii. 19; -xvii. 6.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-vi_5" id="footnote-vi_5"></a><a href="#anc_vi_5"><span class="label">[VI_5]</span></a> Boerhaave, Hist. Plant.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-vi_6" id="footnote-vi_6"></a><a href="#anc_vi_6"><span class="label">[VI_6]</span></a> See Les Bigarrures du Seigneur des Accords. Paris, 1662, -p. 62.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-vi_7" id="footnote-vi_7"></a><a href="#anc_vi_7"><span class="label">[VI_7]</span></a> Plin. xx. 20.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-vi_8" id="footnote-vi_8"></a><a href="#anc_vi_8"><span class="label">[VI_8]</span></a> Varro. R. R.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-vi_9" id="footnote-vi_9"></a><a href="#anc_vi_9"><span class="label">[VI_9]</span></a> Plin. xviii. 7, 14.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-vi_10" id="footnote-vi_10"></a><a href="#anc_vi_10"><span class="label">[VI_10]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-vi_11" id="footnote-vi_11"></a><a href="#anc_vi_11"><span class="label">[VI_11]</span></a> Athen. i. 15.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-vi_12" id="footnote-vi_12"></a><a href="#anc_vi_12"><span class="label">[VI_12]</span></a> Ibid. ii. 14.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-vi_13" id="footnote-vi_13"></a><a href="#anc_vi_13"><span class="label">[VI_13]</span></a> Plin. xviii. 14.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-vi_14" id="footnote-vi_14"></a><a href="#anc_vi_14"><span class="label">[VI_14]</span></a> Bruyerin, vii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-vi_15" id="footnote-vi_15"></a><a href="#anc_vi_15"><span class="label">[VI_15]</span></a> Plin. xix. 1.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-vi_16" id="footnote-vi_16"></a><a href="#anc_vi_16"><span class="label">[VI_16]</span></a> Galen. De Aliment. Facult. i.; Bruyerin. vii. 12.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-vi_17" id="footnote-vi_17"></a><a href="#anc_vi_17"><span class="label">[VI_17]</span></a> Plin. loc. cit.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-vi_18" id="footnote-vi_18"></a><a href="#anc_vi_18"><span class="label">[VI_18]</span></a> Bruyerin, vii. 13.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-vi_19" id="footnote-vi_19"></a><a href="#anc_vi_19"><span class="label">[VI_19]</span></a> Simeo. Sethi, De Aliment. Facult.</p></div> - -<p class="c">VII.</p> - -<p class="c">VEGETABLES.</p> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-vii_1" id="footnote-vii_1"></a><a href="#anc_vii_1"><span class="label">[VII_1]</span></a> Nonnius, De Re Cibar. i. 5.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-vii_2" id="footnote-vii_2"></a><a href="#anc_vii_2"><span class="label">[VII_2]</span></a> Plin. xviii. 10.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-vii_3" id="footnote-vii_3"></a><a href="#anc_vii_3"><span class="label">[VII_3]</span></a> Genes. ix. 3.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-vii_4" id="footnote-vii_4"></a><a href="#anc_vii_4"><span class="label">[VII_4]</span></a> Ibid. xxv. 34.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-vii_5" id="footnote-vii_5"></a><a href="#anc_vii_5"><span class="label">[VII_5]</span></a> Samuel, xvii. 28.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-vii_6" id="footnote-vii_6"></a><a href="#anc_vii_6"><span class="label">[VII_6]</span></a> Daniel, i. 12, 16.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-vii_7" id="footnote-vii_7"></a><a href="#anc_vii_7"><span class="label">[VII_7]</span></a> Athen. i. 45.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-vii_8" id="footnote-vii_8"></a><a href="#anc_vii_8"><span class="label">[VII_8]</span></a> Iliad.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-vii_9" id="footnote-vii_9"></a><a href="#anc_vii_9"><span class="label">[VII_9]</span></a> Athen. ii. 8.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-vii_10" id="footnote-vii_10"></a><a href="#anc_vii_10"><span class="label">[VII_10]</span></a> Varro. De Re Rust, i. 23, 32; Isidor. Orig. xvii. 4.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-vii_11" id="footnote-vii_11"></a><a href="#anc_vii_11"><span class="label">[VII_11]</span></a> Cato. 35, 36; Virgil. Georg. i. ii.; Varro. De Re -Rust. i. 23, 32.; Ovid. Fast. v.; Gell. iv. 11.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-vii_12" id="footnote-vii_12"></a><a href="#anc_vii_12"><span class="label">[VII_12]</span></a> Virgil. Georg. translat. by Delille.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-vii_13" id="footnote-vii_13"></a><a href="#anc_vii_13"><span class="label">[VII_13]</span></a> Sigonius, De Nominib. Roman.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-vii_14" id="footnote-vii_14"></a><a href="#anc_vii_14"><span class="label">[VII_14]</span></a> Cic. lib. vii. Epist. 26 ad Fab. Gall.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-vii_15" id="footnote-vii_15"></a><a href="#anc_vii_15"><span class="label">[VII_15]</span></a> 97 years <small>B.C.</small></p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-vii_16" id="footnote-vii_16"></a><a href="#anc_vii_16"><span class="label">[VII_16]</span></a> Dio. Epitom. Tiber.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-vii_17" id="footnote-vii_17"></a><a href="#anc_vii_17"><span class="label">[VII_17]</span></a> Apicius, De Obsoniis. i. 23.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-vii_18" id="footnote-vii_18"></a><a href="#anc_vii_18"><span class="label">[VII_18]</span></a> Caroli Magni Capitul.</p></div> - -<p class="c">VIII.</p> - -<p class="c">DRIED VEGETABLES.</p> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-viii_1" id="footnote-viii_1"></a><a href="#anc_viii_1"><span class="label">[VIII_1]</span></a> Ovid. Fast, iii.; Festus, De Verb. Signif.; Nonnius, -i. 5.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-viii_2" id="footnote-viii_2"></a><a href="#anc_viii_2"><span class="label">[VIII_2]</span></a> Festus, loc. cit.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-viii_3" id="footnote-viii_3"></a><a href="#anc_viii_3"><span class="label">[VIII_3]</span></a> Nonnius, loc. cit.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-viii_4" id="footnote-viii_4"></a><a href="#anc_viii_4"><span class="label">[VIII_4]</span></a> Id. loc. cit.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-viii_5" id="footnote-viii_5"></a><a href="#anc_viii_5"><span class="label">[VIII_5]</span></a> Theophrast. De Caus. Plant.; Clem. Alex. Strom.; Cic. -De Divinat. i.; Plin. xviii. 7, 12.; Simeo. Sethi, De Aliment. Facult. -p. 134.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-viii_6" id="footnote-viii_6"></a><a href="#anc_viii_6"><span class="label">[VIII_6]</span></a> Hippocrat. iii. aphor. 20.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-viii_7" id="footnote-viii_7"></a><a href="#anc_viii_7"><span class="label">[VIII_7]</span></a> Plin. xviii. 12.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-viii_8" id="footnote-viii_8"></a><a href="#anc_viii_8"><span class="label">[VIII_8]</span></a> Pollux et Eustath.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-viii_9" id="footnote-viii_9"></a><a href="#anc_viii_9"><span class="label">[VIII_9]</span></a> Isidor. Orig. vii.; Nonnius, i. 5.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-viii_10" id="footnote-viii_10"></a><a href="#anc_viii_10"><span class="label">[VIII_10]</span></a> <span class="smcap">II.</span> Reg. xvii. 28.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-viii_11" id="footnote-viii_11"></a><a href="#anc_viii_11"><span class="label">[VIII_11]</span></a> Ezech. iv. 9.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-viii_12" id="footnote-viii_12"></a><a href="#anc_viii_12"><span class="label">[VIII_12]</span></a> Athen. iii. 1.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-viii_13" id="footnote-viii_13"></a><a href="#anc_viii_13"><span class="label">[VIII_13]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-viii_14" id="footnote-viii_14"></a><a href="#anc_viii_14"><span class="label">[VIII_14]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-viii_15" id="footnote-viii_15"></a><a href="#anc_viii_15"><span class="label">[VIII_15]</span></a> Dioscorid. ii. 99; Athen. loc. cit.; Plin. xxi. 15; -Theophrast. v.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-viii_16" id="footnote-viii_16"></a><a href="#anc_viii_16"><span class="label">[VIII_16]</span></a> Plin. xvi. 30; xxiv. 2.</p></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_417" id="page_417"></a>{417}</span></p> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-viii_17" id="footnote-viii_17"></a><a href="#anc_viii_17"><span class="label">[VIII_17]</span></a> Pinkerton’s Ancient Scot. Poems, vol. ii. p. 431.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-viii_18" id="footnote-viii_18"></a><a href="#anc_viii_18"><span class="label">[VIII_18]</span></a> Anecdotes of Some Distinguished Persons, vol. iii. p. -317.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-viii_19" id="footnote-viii_19"></a><a href="#anc_viii_19"><span class="label">[VIII_19]</span></a> Boemus Aubanus. Mores, Leges, &c., Omnium Gentium, -Genev. 1620, p. 266.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-viii_20" id="footnote-viii_20"></a><a href="#anc_viii_20"><span class="label">[VIII_20]</span></a> Brand’s Popular Antiquities, vol. i. p. 24.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-viii_21" id="footnote-viii_21"></a><a href="#anc_viii_21"><span class="label">[VIII_21]</span></a> Athen.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-viii_22" id="footnote-viii_22"></a><a href="#anc_viii_22"><span class="label">[VIII_22]</span></a> Virgil. Georg. i. 227.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-viii_23" id="footnote-viii_23"></a><a href="#anc_viii_23"><span class="label">[VIII_23]</span></a> Athen. ii. 15.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-viii_24" id="footnote-viii_24"></a><a href="#anc_viii_24"><span class="label">[VIII_24]</span></a> Galen. De Aliment. Facult. ii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-viii_25" id="footnote-viii_25"></a><a href="#anc_viii_25"><span class="label">[VIII_25]</span></a> Id. Ibid. v.; Nonnius, i. 5.; Platina, De Tuend. -Valetud.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-viii_26" id="footnote-viii_26"></a><a href="#anc_viii_26"><span class="label">[VIII_26]</span></a> Columell. ii. 10.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-viii_27" id="footnote-viii_27"></a><a href="#anc_viii_27"><span class="label">[VIII_27]</span></a> Mélanges Tirés d’une Grande Bibliothèque.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-viii_28" id="footnote-viii_28"></a><a href="#anc_viii_28"><span class="label">[VIII_28]</span></a> <span class="smcap">II.</span> Reg. xvii. 28.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-viii_29" id="footnote-viii_29"></a><a href="#anc_viii_29"><span class="label">[VIII_29]</span></a> Martial i. 42.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-viii_30" id="footnote-viii_30"></a><a href="#anc_viii_30"><span class="label">[VIII_30]</span></a> Lambinus; Erasm. In Adagiis.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-viii_31" id="footnote-viii_31"></a><a href="#anc_viii_31"><span class="label">[VIII_31]</span></a> Columell. ii. 10.; Plin. xviii. 12.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-viii_32" id="footnote-viii_32"></a><a href="#anc_viii_32"><span class="label">[VIII_32]</span></a> Martial. loc. cit.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-viii_33" id="footnote-viii_33"></a><a href="#anc_viii_33"><span class="label">[VIII_33]</span></a> Horat. Sat. i. 3.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-viii_34" id="footnote-viii_34"></a><a href="#anc_viii_34"><span class="label">[VIII_34]</span></a> Athen. iv.; Nonnius. De Re Cibar.; Bruyerin. vii. 3.; -Florentin. ap. Constant. Cæsar. xi.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-viii_35" id="footnote-viii_35"></a><a href="#anc_viii_35"><span class="label">[VIII_35]</span></a> Athen. vi. 4.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-viii_36" id="footnote-viii_36"></a><a href="#anc_viii_36"><span class="label">[VIII_36]</span></a> Id.; Nonnius; Bruyerin. loc. cit.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-viii_37" id="footnote-viii_37"></a><a href="#anc_viii_37"><span class="label">[VIII_37]</span></a> Genes. xxv. 34.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-viii_38" id="footnote-viii_38"></a><a href="#anc_viii_38"><span class="label">[VIII_38]</span></a> <span class="smcap">II.</span> Reg. xvii. 28.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-viii_39" id="footnote-viii_39"></a><a href="#anc_viii_39"><span class="label">[VIII_39]</span></a> Ibid. xxiii. 11.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-viii_40" id="footnote-viii_40"></a><a href="#anc_viii_40"><span class="label">[VIII_40]</span></a> Ezech. iv. 9.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-viii_41" id="footnote-viii_41"></a><a href="#anc_viii_41"><span class="label">[VIII_41]</span></a> Cic. Tuscul. iv.; Virgil. Georg. i. ii.; Isidor. -Orig. xvii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-viii_42" id="footnote-viii_42"></a><a href="#anc_viii_42"><span class="label">[VIII_42]</span></a> Appian. De Bello Parthico; Plutarch. In Vitâ Crassi.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-viii_43" id="footnote-viii_43"></a><a href="#anc_viii_43"><span class="label">[VIII_43]</span></a> Virgil. Georg. i. 228.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-viii_44" id="footnote-viii_44"></a><a href="#anc_viii_44"><span class="label">[VIII_44]</span></a> Plin. xv. 12.</p></div> - -<p class="c">IX.</p> - -<p class="c">KITCHEN GARDEN.</p> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_1" id="footnote-ix_1"></a><a href="#anc_ix_1"><span class="label">[IX_1]</span></a> Delille, Préface du Poème des Jardins.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_2" id="footnote-ix_2"></a><a href="#anc_ix_2"><span class="label">[IX_2]</span></a> Num. xxiv. 6.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_3" id="footnote-ix_3"></a><a href="#anc_ix_3"><span class="label">[IX_3]</span></a> Virgil. Georg. iv.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_4" id="footnote-ix_4"></a><a href="#anc_ix_4"><span class="label">[IX_4]</span></a> Esth, vii. 7, 8.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_5" id="footnote-ix_5"></a><a href="#anc_ix_5"><span class="label">[IX_5]</span></a> Ex Trog. Pompeio. Justin, xxxvi</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_6" id="footnote-ix_6"></a><a href="#anc_ix_6"><span class="label">[IX_6]</span></a> Q. Curt. v. 1.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_7" id="footnote-ix_7"></a><a href="#anc_ix_7"><span class="label">[IX_7]</span></a> Odyss. vii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_8" id="footnote-ix_8"></a><a href="#anc_ix_8"><span class="label">[IX_8]</span></a> Dio. xlvii.; Sueton. Cæs. 83.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_9" id="footnote-ix_9"></a><a href="#anc_ix_9"><span class="label">[IX_9]</span></a> Cato. Varro. Columell. passim.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_10" id="footnote-ix_10"></a><a href="#anc_ix_10"><span class="label">[IX_10]</span></a> Cal. Siculus. Eclog. ii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_11" id="footnote-ix_11"></a><a href="#anc_ix_11"><span class="label">[IX_11]</span></a> Frontin. Cœl. Sympos. Œnigm. 72; Pallad. ix. 11.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_12" id="footnote-ix_12"></a><a href="#anc_ix_12"><span class="label">[IX_12]</span></a> Scriptores Rei Rustic. passim.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_13" id="footnote-ix_13"></a><a href="#anc_ix_13"><span class="label">[IX_13]</span></a> Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_14" id="footnote-ix_14"></a><a href="#anc_ix_14"><span class="label">[IX_14]</span></a> Hippocrat. Aphorism.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_15" id="footnote-ix_15"></a><a href="#anc_ix_15"><span class="label">[IX_15]</span></a> Plin.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_16" id="footnote-ix_16"></a><a href="#anc_ix_16"><span class="label">[IX_16]</span></a> Cato. De Re Rustic. 156, 157.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_17" id="footnote-ix_17"></a><a href="#anc_ix_17"><span class="label">[IX_17]</span></a> Athen. ix. 2.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_18" id="footnote-ix_18"></a><a href="#anc_ix_18"><span class="label">[IX_18]</span></a> Cato. loc. cit.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_19" id="footnote-ix_19"></a><a href="#anc_ix_19"><span class="label">[IX_19]</span></a> Ch. St Laurent, Diction. Encyclopéd.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_20" id="footnote-ix_20"></a><a href="#anc_ix_20"><span class="label">[IX_20]</span></a> Apicius, De Obsoniis, iii. 9.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_21" id="footnote-ix_21"></a><a href="#anc_ix_21"><span class="label">[IX_21]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_22" id="footnote-ix_22"></a><a href="#anc_ix_22"><span class="label">[IX_22]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_23" id="footnote-ix_23"></a><a href="#anc_ix_23"><span class="label">[IX_23]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_24" id="footnote-ix_24"></a><a href="#anc_ix_24"><span class="label">[IX_24]</span></a> Olivier de Serres.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_25" id="footnote-ix_25"></a><a href="#anc_ix_25"><span class="label">[IX_25]</span></a> Columell. x. 251 et 254.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_26" id="footnote-ix_26"></a><a href="#anc_ix_26"><span class="label">[IX_26]</span></a> Plin. xix. 8.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_27" id="footnote-ix_27"></a><a href="#anc_ix_27"><span class="label">[IX_27]</span></a> Athen. i. 6.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_28" id="footnote-ix_28"></a><a href="#anc_ix_28"><span class="label">[IX_28]</span></a> Id. ix. 2.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_29" id="footnote-ix_29"></a><a href="#anc_ix_29"><span class="label">[IX_29]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_30" id="footnote-ix_30"></a><a href="#anc_ix_30"><span class="label">[IX_30]</span></a> Martial. xiii. 13.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_31" id="footnote-ix_31"></a><a href="#anc_ix_31"><span class="label">[IX_31]</span></a> Apicius, iii. 2.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_32" id="footnote-ix_32"></a><a href="#anc_ix_32"><span class="label">[IX_32]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_33" id="footnote-ix_33"></a><a href="#anc_ix_33"><span class="label">[IX_33]</span></a> Id. iii. 11.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_34" id="footnote-ix_34"></a><a href="#anc_ix_34"><span class="label">[IX_34]</span></a> Dioscorid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_35" id="footnote-ix_35"></a><a href="#anc_ix_35"><span class="label">[IX_35]</span></a> Stephan. Thesaur. Ling. Latin.; Ch. St. Laurent, Dict. -Encyclop.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_36" id="footnote-ix_36"></a><a href="#anc_ix_36"><span class="label">[IX_36]</span></a> Beckmann, Hist. of Invent.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_37" id="footnote-ix_37"></a><a href="#anc_ix_37"><span class="label">[IX_37]</span></a> Hispanicum Olus.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_38" id="footnote-ix_38"></a><a href="#anc_ix_38"><span class="label">[IX_38]</span></a> Athen. ii. 18.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_39" id="footnote-ix_39"></a><a href="#anc_ix_39"><span class="label">[IX_39]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_40" id="footnote-ix_40"></a><a href="#anc_ix_40"><span class="label">[IX_40]</span></a> Horat. Epod. ii. 58.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_41" id="footnote-ix_41"></a><a href="#anc_ix_41"><span class="label">[IX_41]</span></a> Martial. iii. 89.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_42" id="footnote-ix_42"></a><a href="#anc_ix_42"><span class="label">[IX_42]</span></a> Cic. vii. Familiar. 26.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_43" id="footnote-ix_43"></a><a href="#anc_ix_43"><span class="label">[IX_43]</span></a> Plin. xx. 21.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_44" id="footnote-ix_44"></a><a href="#anc_ix_44"><span class="label">[IX_44]</span></a> Apicius, iii. 8.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_45" id="footnote-ix_45"></a><a href="#anc_ix_45"><span class="label">[IX_45]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_46" id="footnote-ix_46"></a><a href="#anc_ix_46"><span class="label">[IX_46]</span></a> La Fontaine, Fables.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_47" id="footnote-ix_47"></a><a href="#anc_ix_47"><span class="label">[IX_47]</span></a> Athen. ii. 21.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_48" id="footnote-ix_48"></a><a href="#anc_ix_48"><span class="label">[IX_48]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_49" id="footnote-ix_49"></a><a href="#anc_ix_49"><span class="label">[IX_49]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_50" id="footnote-ix_50"></a><a href="#anc_ix_50"><span class="label">[IX_50]</span></a> Plin. xix. 4.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_51" id="footnote-ix_51"></a><a href="#anc_ix_51"><span class="label">[IX_51]</span></a> Id. xix. 8.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_52" id="footnote-ix_52"></a><a href="#anc_ix_52"><span class="label">[IX_52]</span></a> Sueton. Oct. Cæs. 87.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_53" id="footnote-ix_53"></a><a href="#anc_ix_53"><span class="label">[IX_53]</span></a> Apicius, iii. 3.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_54" id="footnote-ix_54"></a><a href="#anc_ix_54"><span class="label">[IX_54]</span></a> Plin. loc. cit.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_55" id="footnote-ix_55"></a><a href="#anc_ix_55"><span class="label">[IX_55]</span></a> Dictionnaire des Sciences Naturelles.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_56" id="footnote-ix_56"></a><a href="#anc_ix_56"><span class="label">[IX_56]</span></a> Plin. xix. 5.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_57" id="footnote-ix_57"></a><a href="#anc_ix_57"><span class="label">[IX_57]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_58" id="footnote-ix_58"></a><a href="#anc_ix_58"><span class="label">[IX_58]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_59" id="footnote-ix_59"></a><a href="#anc_ix_59"><span class="label">[IX_59]</span></a> Athen. ii. 18.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_60" id="footnote-ix_60"></a><a href="#anc_ix_60"><span class="label">[IX_60]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_61" id="footnote-ix_61"></a><a href="#anc_ix_61"><span class="label">[IX_61]</span></a> Propert. iv. 2, 43.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_62" id="footnote-ix_62"></a><a href="#anc_ix_62"><span class="label">[IX_62]</span></a> Juvenal. Sat xiv. 47.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_63" id="footnote-ix_63"></a><a href="#anc_ix_63"><span class="label">[IX_63]</span></a> Athen. ii. 18.</p></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_418" id="page_418"></a>{418}</span></p> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_64" id="footnote-ix_64"></a><a href="#anc_ix_64"><span class="label">[IX_64]</span></a> Athen. ii. 18.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_65" id="footnote-ix_65"></a><a href="#anc_ix_65"><span class="label">[IX_65]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_66" id="footnote-ix_66"></a><a href="#anc_ix_66"><span class="label">[IX_66]</span></a> Id. ix. 3.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_67" id="footnote-ix_67"></a><a href="#anc_ix_67"><span class="label">[IX_67]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_68" id="footnote-ix_68"></a><a href="#anc_ix_68"><span class="label">[IX_68]</span></a> Apicius, iii. 4.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_69" id="footnote-ix_69"></a><a href="#anc_ix_69"><span class="label">[IX_69]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_70" id="footnote-ix_70"></a><a href="#anc_ix_70"><span class="label">[IX_70]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_71" id="footnote-ix_71"></a><a href="#anc_ix_71"><span class="label">[IX_71]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_72" id="footnote-ix_72"></a><a href="#anc_ix_72"><span class="label">[IX_72]</span></a> Athen. i. 6.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_73" id="footnote-ix_73"></a><a href="#anc_ix_73"><span class="label">[IX_73]</span></a> Scriptores Rei Rustic.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_74" id="footnote-ix_74"></a><a href="#anc_ix_74"><span class="label">[IX_74]</span></a> Apicius, iii. 13.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_75" id="footnote-ix_75"></a><a href="#anc_ix_75"><span class="label">[IX_75]</span></a> Plin. xix. 5.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_76" id="footnote-ix_76"></a><a href="#anc_ix_76"><span class="label">[IX_76]</span></a> Id. xxi. 15.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_77" id="footnote-ix_77"></a><a href="#anc_ix_77"><span class="label">[IX_77]</span></a> Apicius, iii. 21.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_78" id="footnote-ix_78"></a><a href="#anc_ix_78"><span class="label">[IX_78]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_79" id="footnote-ix_79"></a><a href="#anc_ix_79"><span class="label">[IX_79]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_80" id="footnote-ix_80"></a><a href="#anc_ix_80"><span class="label">[IX_80]</span></a> Festus.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_81" id="footnote-ix_81"></a><a href="#anc_ix_81"><span class="label">[IX_81]</span></a> Dr. Charbonnier.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_82" id="footnote-ix_82"></a><a href="#anc_ix_82"><span class="label">[IX_82]</span></a> Plin. xx. 20.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_83" id="footnote-ix_83"></a><a href="#anc_ix_83"><span class="label">[IX_83]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_84" id="footnote-ix_84"></a><a href="#anc_ix_84"><span class="label">[IX_84]</span></a> Id. xix. 12.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_85" id="footnote-ix_85"></a><a href="#anc_ix_85"><span class="label">[IX_85]</span></a> Apicius, iii. 11.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_86" id="footnote-ix_86"></a><a href="#anc_ix_86"><span class="label">[IX_86]</span></a> Plin. xix. 8.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_87" id="footnote-ix_87"></a><a href="#anc_ix_87"><span class="label">[IX_87]</span></a> Athen.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_88" id="footnote-ix_88"></a><a href="#anc_ix_88"><span class="label">[IX_88]</span></a> Apicius, iii. 9.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_89" id="footnote-ix_89"></a><a href="#anc_ix_89"><span class="label">[IX_89]</span></a> Ruell. i. 20.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_90" id="footnote-ix_90"></a><a href="#anc_ix_90"><span class="label">[IX_90]</span></a> Athen. ii. 13; Pollux, vi. 9.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_91" id="footnote-ix_91"></a><a href="#anc_ix_91"><span class="label">[IX_91]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_92" id="footnote-ix_92"></a><a href="#anc_ix_92"><span class="label">[IX_92]</span></a> Dioscorid. iii. 14.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_93" id="footnote-ix_93"></a><a href="#anc_ix_93"><span class="label">[IX_93]</span></a> Plin. xxi. 16.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_94" id="footnote-ix_94"></a><a href="#anc_ix_94"><span class="label">[IX_94]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_95" id="footnote-ix_95"></a><a href="#anc_ix_95"><span class="label">[IX_95]</span></a> Hermolao Barbaro.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_96" id="footnote-ix_96"></a><a href="#anc_ix_96"><span class="label">[IX_96]</span></a> Ruell. i.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_97" id="footnote-ix_97"></a><a href="#anc_ix_97"><span class="label">[IX_97]</span></a> 2nd cent. <small>A.C.</small></p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_98" id="footnote-ix_98"></a><a href="#anc_ix_98"><span class="label">[IX_98]</span></a> Galen. De Aliment. Facult.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_99" id="footnote-ix_99"></a><a href="#anc_ix_99"><span class="label">[IX_99]</span></a> Columell. x. 236.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_100" id="footnote-ix_100"></a><a href="#anc_ix_100"><span class="label">[IX_100]</span></a> Geoponic. xii. 39.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_101" id="footnote-ix_101"></a><a href="#anc_ix_101"><span class="label">[IX_101]</span></a> Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_102" id="footnote-ix_102"></a><a href="#anc_ix_102"><span class="label">[IX_102]</span></a> Apicius, iii. 19.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_103" id="footnote-ix_103"></a><a href="#anc_ix_103"><span class="label">[IX_103]</span></a> Ch. St. Laurent, Dict. Encycl.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_104" id="footnote-ix_104"></a><a href="#anc_ix_104"><span class="label">[IX_104]</span></a> Apicius, loc. cit.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_105" id="footnote-ix_105"></a><a href="#anc_ix_105"><span class="label">[IX_105]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_106" id="footnote-ix_106"></a><a href="#anc_ix_106"><span class="label">[IX_106]</span></a> Tertullian, De Animâ, cap. 32.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_107" id="footnote-ix_107"></a><a href="#anc_ix_107"><span class="label">[IX_107]</span></a> Id. Adv. Marc. iv. 40.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_108" id="footnote-ix_108"></a><a href="#anc_ix_108"><span class="label">[IX_108]</span></a> Plin. xx. 2.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_109" id="footnote-ix_109"></a><a href="#anc_ix_109"><span class="label">[IX_109]</span></a> Num. xi. 5.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_110" id="footnote-ix_110"></a><a href="#anc_ix_110"><span class="label">[IX_110]</span></a> Apicius, iii. 4.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_111" id="footnote-ix_111"></a><a href="#anc_ix_111"><span class="label">[IX_111]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_112" id="footnote-ix_112"></a><a href="#anc_ix_112"><span class="label">[IX_112]</span></a> Ch. St. Laurent, Dict. Encyc.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_113" id="footnote-ix_113"></a><a href="#anc_ix_113"><span class="label">[IX_113]</span></a> Apicius, iii. 5.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_114" id="footnote-ix_114"></a><a href="#anc_ix_114"><span class="label">[IX_114]</span></a> Num. xi. 5.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_115" id="footnote-ix_115"></a><a href="#anc_ix_115"><span class="label">[IX_115]</span></a> Athen.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_116" id="footnote-ix_116"></a><a href="#anc_ix_116"><span class="label">[IX_116]</span></a> Geoponic. xii. 7, 4.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_117" id="footnote-ix_117"></a><a href="#anc_ix_117"><span class="label">[IX_117]</span></a> Plin.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_118" id="footnote-ix_118"></a><a href="#anc_ix_118"><span class="label">[IX_118]</span></a> Apicius, iii. 6.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_119" id="footnote-ix_119"></a><a href="#anc_ix_119"><span class="label">[IX_119]</span></a> Apicius, i. 31.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_120" id="footnote-ix_120"></a><a href="#anc_ix_120"><span class="label">[IX_120]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_121" id="footnote-ix_121"></a><a href="#anc_ix_121"><span class="label">[IX_121]</span></a> Id. iii. 6.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_122" id="footnote-ix_122"></a><a href="#anc_ix_122"><span class="label">[IX_122]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_123" id="footnote-ix_123"></a><a href="#anc_ix_123"><span class="label">[IX_123]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_124" id="footnote-ix_124"></a><a href="#anc_ix_124"><span class="label">[IX_124]</span></a> Exod. xii. 8; Num. ix. 11.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_125" id="footnote-ix_125"></a><a href="#anc_ix_125"><span class="label">[IX_125]</span></a> Athen. ii. 18.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_126" id="footnote-ix_126"></a><a href="#anc_ix_126"><span class="label">[IX_126]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_127" id="footnote-ix_127"></a><a href="#anc_ix_127"><span class="label">[IX_127]</span></a> Martial. xiii. 14.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_128" id="footnote-ix_128"></a><a href="#anc_ix_128"><span class="label">[IX_128]</span></a> Bibl. Sacra. loc. cit.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_129" id="footnote-ix_129"></a><a href="#anc_ix_129"><span class="label">[IX_129]</span></a> Athen. i. 12.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_130" id="footnote-ix_130"></a><a href="#anc_ix_130"><span class="label">[IX_130]</span></a> Theophrast. Hist. Plant. vi. 7.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_131" id="footnote-ix_131"></a><a href="#anc_ix_131"><span class="label">[IX_131]</span></a> Galen. De Aliment. Facult.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_132" id="footnote-ix_132"></a><a href="#anc_ix_132"><span class="label">[IX_132]</span></a> Sueton. In August.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_133" id="footnote-ix_133"></a><a href="#anc_ix_133"><span class="label">[IX_133]</span></a> Ch. St. Laurent, Dict. Encycl.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_134" id="footnote-ix_134"></a><a href="#anc_ix_134"><span class="label">[IX_134]</span></a> Apicius, iii. 15.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_135" id="footnote-ix_135"></a><a href="#anc_ix_135"><span class="label">[IX_135]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_136" id="footnote-ix_136"></a><a href="#anc_ix_136"><span class="label">[IX_136]</span></a> Platina; Taillevant.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_137" id="footnote-ix_137"></a><a href="#anc_ix_137"><span class="label">[IX_137]</span></a> Plin. xx. 8.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_138" id="footnote-ix_138"></a><a href="#anc_ix_138"><span class="label">[IX_138]</span></a> Virgil. Georg. i. 120.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_139" id="footnote-ix_139"></a><a href="#anc_ix_139"><span class="label">[IX_139]</span></a> Columell. x. 3.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_140" id="footnote-ix_140"></a><a href="#anc_ix_140"><span class="label">[IX_140]</span></a> Pallad. i. 30; Apul. De Herb. 47.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_141" id="footnote-ix_141"></a><a href="#anc_ix_141"><span class="label">[IX_141]</span></a> Apicius, iii. 18.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_142" id="footnote-ix_142"></a><a href="#anc_ix_142"><span class="label">[IX_142]</span></a> Geoponic. xii. 31.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_143" id="footnote-ix_143"></a><a href="#anc_ix_143"><span class="label">[IX_143]</span></a> Num. xi. 5.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_144" id="footnote-ix_144"></a><a href="#anc_ix_144"><span class="label">[IX_144]</span></a> Socrat. In Zenophont. Symposio.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_145" id="footnote-ix_145"></a><a href="#anc_ix_145"><span class="label">[IX_145]</span></a> Plin. xix. 6.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_146" id="footnote-ix_146"></a><a href="#anc_ix_146"><span class="label">[IX_146]</span></a> Horat. lib. i. Epod. xii. 21.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_147" id="footnote-ix_147"></a><a href="#anc_ix_147"><span class="label">[IX_147]</span></a> Apicius, iii. 15.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_148" id="footnote-ix_148"></a><a href="#anc_ix_148"><span class="label">[IX_148]</span></a> Alexand. v. 10.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_149" id="footnote-ix_149"></a><a href="#anc_ix_149"><span class="label">[IX_149]</span></a> Num. xi. 5.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_150" id="footnote-ix_150"></a><a href="#anc_ix_150"><span class="label">[IX_150]</span></a> Geoponic. xii. 29.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_151" id="footnote-ix_151"></a><a href="#anc_ix_151"><span class="label">[IX_151]</span></a> Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_152" id="footnote-ix_152"></a><a href="#anc_ix_152"><span class="label">[IX_152]</span></a> Athen. ix. 3.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_153" id="footnote-ix_153"></a><a href="#anc_ix_153"><span class="label">[IX_153]</span></a> Apicius, iii. 10.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_154" id="footnote-ix_154"></a><a href="#anc_ix_154"><span class="label">[IX_154]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_155" id="footnote-ix_155"></a><a href="#anc_ix_155"><span class="label">[IX_155]</span></a> J. A. St. John, The Hindoos, vol. i. p. 357.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_156" id="footnote-ix_156"></a><a href="#anc_ix_156"><span class="label">[IX_156]</span></a> Suidas. Tiber. iii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_157" id="footnote-ix_157"></a><a href="#anc_ix_157"><span class="label">[IX_157]</span></a> Geoponic. xii. 20.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_158" id="footnote-ix_158"></a><a href="#anc_ix_158"><span class="label">[IX_158]</span></a> Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_159" id="footnote-ix_159"></a><a href="#anc_ix_159"><span class="label">[IX_159]</span></a> Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_160" id="footnote-ix_160"></a><a href="#anc_ix_160"><span class="label">[IX_160]</span></a> Apicius, iii. 7.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_161" id="footnote-ix_161"></a><a href="#anc_ix_161"><span class="label">[IX_161]</span></a> Pasquier, Recherches sur la France.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_162" id="footnote-ix_162"></a><a href="#anc_ix_162"><span class="label">[IX_162]</span></a> Babylonic Talmud.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_163" id="footnote-ix_163"></a><a href="#anc_ix_163"><span class="label">[IX_163]</span></a> Athen. i. 6.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_164" id="footnote-ix_164"></a><a href="#anc_ix_164"><span class="label">[IX_164]</span></a> Plin. xix. 5.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_165" id="footnote-ix_165"></a><a href="#anc_ix_165"><span class="label">[IX_165]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_166" id="footnote-ix_166"></a><a href="#anc_ix_166"><span class="label">[IX_166]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_167" id="footnote-ix_167"></a><a href="#anc_ix_167"><span class="label">[IX_167]</span></a> Varro. R. R.; Columell. xi.; Plin. xviii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_168" id="footnote-ix_168"></a><a href="#anc_ix_168"><span class="label">[IX_168]</span></a> Geoponic. xii. 21; Varro. i. 11.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_169" id="footnote-ix_169"></a><a href="#anc_ix_169"><span class="label">[IX_169]</span></a> Sueton. In Vespas. iv.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_170" id="footnote-ix_170"></a><a href="#anc_ix_170"><span class="label">[IX_170]</span></a> Apicius, iii. 13.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_171" id="footnote-ix_171"></a><a href="#anc_ix_171"><span class="label">[IX_171]</span></a> Id. i. 24.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_172" id="footnote-ix_172"></a><a href="#anc_ix_172"><span class="label">[IX_172]</span></a> Athen. ii. 16.</p></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_419" id="page_419"></a>{419}</span></p> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_173" id="footnote-ix_173"></a><a href="#anc_ix_173"><span class="label">[IX_173]</span></a> Plin. xix. 5.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_174" id="footnote-ix_174"></a><a href="#anc_ix_174"><span class="label">[IX_174]</span></a> Athen. loc. cit.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_175" id="footnote-ix_175"></a><a href="#anc_ix_175"><span class="label">[IX_175]</span></a> Theophrast. Hist. Plant. vii. 4.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_176" id="footnote-ix_176"></a><a href="#anc_ix_176"><span class="label">[IX_176]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_177" id="footnote-ix_177"></a><a href="#anc_ix_177"><span class="label">[IX_177]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_178" id="footnote-ix_178"></a><a href="#anc_ix_178"><span class="label">[IX_178]</span></a> Geoponic. xii. 22.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_179" id="footnote-ix_179"></a><a href="#anc_ix_179"><span class="label">[IX_179]</span></a> Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_180" id="footnote-ix_180"></a><a href="#anc_ix_180"><span class="label">[IX_180]</span></a> Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_181" id="footnote-ix_181"></a><a href="#anc_ix_181"><span class="label">[IX_181]</span></a> Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_182" id="footnote-ix_182"></a><a href="#anc_ix_182"><span class="label">[IX_182]</span></a> Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_183" id="footnote-ix_183"></a><a href="#anc_ix_183"><span class="label">[IX_183]</span></a> Apicius, iii. 14.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_184" id="footnote-ix_184"></a><a href="#anc_ix_184"><span class="label">[IX_184]</span></a> Plin. xx. 6.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_185" id="footnote-ix_185"></a><a href="#anc_ix_185"><span class="label">[IX_185]</span></a> Suidas.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_186" id="footnote-ix_186"></a><a href="#anc_ix_186"><span class="label">[IX_186]</span></a> Plaut. Pœn. v. 5, 34.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_187" id="footnote-ix_187"></a><a href="#anc_ix_187"><span class="label">[IX_187]</span></a> Suidas.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_188" id="footnote-ix_188"></a><a href="#anc_ix_188"><span class="label">[IX_188]</span></a> Virgil. Eclog. ii. 9.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_189" id="footnote-ix_189"></a><a href="#anc_ix_189"><span class="label">[IX_189]</span></a> Dict. des Sciences Naturel.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_190" id="footnote-ix_190"></a><a href="#anc_ix_190"><span class="label">[IX_190]</span></a> Athen.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_191" id="footnote-ix_191"></a><a href="#anc_ix_191"><span class="label">[IX_191]</span></a> Geoponic. xii. 30.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_192" id="footnote-ix_192"></a><a href="#anc_ix_192"><span class="label">[IX_192]</span></a> Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_193" id="footnote-ix_193"></a><a href="#anc_ix_193"><span class="label">[IX_193]</span></a> Plin. xix. 16.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_194" id="footnote-ix_194"></a><a href="#anc_ix_194"><span class="label">[IX_194]</span></a> Banier, Mytholog. tom. vii. p. 198.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_195" id="footnote-ix_195"></a><a href="#anc_ix_195"><span class="label">[IX_195]</span></a> Plutarch. Sympos. v. 3.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_196" id="footnote-ix_196"></a><a href="#anc_ix_196"><span class="label">[IX_196]</span></a> Anacreon, passim.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_197" id="footnote-ix_197"></a><a href="#anc_ix_197"><span class="label">[IX_197]</span></a> Horat. Od. i. 36.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_198" id="footnote-ix_198"></a><a href="#anc_ix_198"><span class="label">[IX_198]</span></a> Paschal. Coron. p. 436.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_199" id="footnote-ix_199"></a><a href="#anc_ix_199"><span class="label">[IX_199]</span></a> Homer. Iliad, ii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_200" id="footnote-ix_200"></a><a href="#anc_ix_200"><span class="label">[IX_200]</span></a> Plin. xx. 1.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_201" id="footnote-ix_201"></a><a href="#anc_ix_201"><span class="label">[IX_201]</span></a> Apicius, iii. 2.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_202" id="footnote-ix_202"></a><a href="#anc_ix_202"><span class="label">[IX_202]</span></a> Id. iii. 15.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_203" id="footnote-ix_203"></a><a href="#anc_ix_203"><span class="label">[IX_203]</span></a> Plutarch. Sympos. v.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_204" id="footnote-ix_204"></a><a href="#anc_ix_204"><span class="label">[IX_204]</span></a> Columell. xi. 3.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_205" id="footnote-ix_205"></a><a href="#anc_ix_205"><span class="label">[IX_205]</span></a> Apicius, iii. 12.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_206" id="footnote-ix_206"></a><a href="#anc_ix_206"><span class="label">[IX_206]</span></a> Cic. In 5 Tuscul. cap. 34.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_207" id="footnote-ix_207"></a><a href="#anc_ix_207"><span class="label">[IX_207]</span></a> Id. De Finib. ii. 92.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_208" id="footnote-ix_208"></a><a href="#anc_ix_208"><span class="label">[IX_208]</span></a> Plutarch. De Virtute et Vitio, sub fin.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_209" id="footnote-ix_209"></a><a href="#anc_ix_209"><span class="label">[IX_209]</span></a> Dr. Charbonnier.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_210" id="footnote-ix_210"></a><a href="#anc_ix_210"><span class="label">[IX_210]</span></a> Geoponic. xii. 27.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_211" id="footnote-ix_211"></a><a href="#anc_ix_211"><span class="label">[IX_211]</span></a> Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_212" id="footnote-ix_212"></a><a href="#anc_ix_212"><span class="label">[IX_212]</span></a> Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_213" id="footnote-ix_213"></a><a href="#anc_ix_213"><span class="label">[IX_213]</span></a> Plin. xix. 8.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_214" id="footnote-ix_214"></a><a href="#anc_ix_214"><span class="label">[IX_214]</span></a> Apicius, iii. 16.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-ix_215" id="footnote-ix_215"></a><a href="#anc_ix_215"><span class="label">[IX_215]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<p class="c">X.</p> - -<p class="c">PLANTS USED IN SEASONING.</p> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-x_1" id="footnote-x_1"></a><a href="#anc_x_1"><span class="label">[X_1]</span></a> Plin. xix. 8.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-x_2" id="footnote-x_2"></a><a href="#anc_x_2"><span class="label">[X_2]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-x_3" id="footnote-x_3"></a><a href="#anc_x_3"><span class="label">[X_3]</span></a> Nonnius, De Re Cibariâ.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-x_4" id="footnote-x_4"></a><a href="#anc_x_4"><span class="label">[X_4]</span></a> Dalechamp, Ad Plin. xx. 25.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-x_5" id="footnote-x_5"></a><a href="#anc_x_5"><span class="label">[X_5]</span></a> Petron. cap. i.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-x_6" id="footnote-x_6"></a><a href="#anc_x_6"><span class="label">[X_6]</span></a> Plin. loc. cit</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-x_7" id="footnote-x_7"></a><a href="#anc_x_7"><span class="label">[X_7]</span></a> Dioscorid. ii. 120.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-x_8" id="footnote-x_8"></a><a href="#anc_x_8"><span class="label">[X_8]</span></a> Plin. xx. 20.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-x_9" id="footnote-x_9"></a><a href="#anc_x_9"><span class="label">[X_9]</span></a> Geoponic. xii. 26.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-x_10" id="footnote-x_10"></a><a href="#anc_x_10"><span class="label">[X_10]</span></a> Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-x_11" id="footnote-x_11"></a><a href="#anc_x_11"><span class="label">[X_11]</span></a> Ovid. Remed. Amor. 402; Juvenal. Sat. ix. 134; Columell. -x. 171.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-x_12" id="footnote-x_12"></a><a href="#anc_x_12"><span class="label">[X_12]</span></a> Isidor. xvii. 11.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-x_13" id="footnote-x_13"></a><a href="#anc_x_13"><span class="label">[X_13]</span></a> Geoponic. xii. 34.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-x_14" id="footnote-x_14"></a><a href="#anc_x_14"><span class="label">[X_14]</span></a> Virgil. Eclog. ii. 48.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-x_15" id="footnote-x_15"></a><a href="#anc_x_15"><span class="label">[X_15]</span></a> Columell. xi. 3.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-x_16" id="footnote-x_16"></a><a href="#anc_x_16"><span class="label">[X_16]</span></a> Dioscorid. i. 52.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-x_17" id="footnote-x_17"></a><a href="#anc_x_17"><span class="label">[X_17]</span></a> Id. v. 41.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-x_18" id="footnote-x_18"></a><a href="#anc_x_18"><span class="label">[X_18]</span></a> Apicius, vi. 9; vii. 6.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-x_19" id="footnote-x_19"></a><a href="#anc_x_19"><span class="label">[X_19]</span></a> Plin. xx. 17.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-x_20" id="footnote-x_20"></a><a href="#anc_x_20"><span class="label">[X_20]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-x_21" id="footnote-x_21"></a><a href="#anc_x_21"><span class="label">[X_21]</span></a> Psalm l. 9.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-x_22" id="footnote-x_22"></a><a href="#anc_x_22"><span class="label">[X_22]</span></a> Columell. vii. 5.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-x_23" id="footnote-x_23"></a><a href="#anc_x_23"><span class="label">[X_23]</span></a> Plin. xxv. 11.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-x_24" id="footnote-x_24"></a><a href="#anc_x_24"><span class="label">[X_24]</span></a> Columell. xii. 35.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-x_25" id="footnote-x_25"></a><a href="#anc_x_25"><span class="label">[X_25]</span></a> Plin. xx. 17.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-x_26" id="footnote-x_26"></a><a href="#anc_x_26"><span class="label">[X_26]</span></a> Dioscorid. v. 38.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-x_27" id="footnote-x_27"></a><a href="#anc_x_27"><span class="label">[X_27]</span></a> Cato. R. R. 127.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-x_28" id="footnote-x_28"></a><a href="#anc_x_28"><span class="label">[X_28]</span></a> Columell. x. 238.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-x_29" id="footnote-x_29"></a><a href="#anc_x_29"><span class="label">[X_29]</span></a> Id. xii. 35.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-x_30" id="footnote-x_30"></a><a href="#anc_x_30"><span class="label">[X_30]</span></a> Plin. xx. 22.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-x_31" id="footnote-x_31"></a><a href="#anc_x_31"><span class="label">[X_31]</span></a> Id. xxi. 22.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-x_32" id="footnote-x_32"></a><a href="#anc_x_32"><span class="label">[X_32]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-x_33" id="footnote-x_33"></a><a href="#anc_x_33"><span class="label">[X_33]</span></a> Const. Cæs. vi. 14.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-x_34" id="footnote-x_34"></a><a href="#anc_x_34"><span class="label">[X_34]</span></a> Plin. xx. 14.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-x_35" id="footnote-x_35"></a><a href="#anc_x_35"><span class="label">[X_35]</span></a> Geoponic. xii. 33.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-x_36" id="footnote-x_36"></a><a href="#anc_x_36"><span class="label">[X_36]</span></a> Athen.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-x_37" id="footnote-x_37"></a><a href="#anc_x_37"><span class="label">[X_37]</span></a> Macer. i. 12.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-x_38" id="footnote-x_38"></a><a href="#anc_x_38"><span class="label">[X_38]</span></a> Athen.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-x_39" id="footnote-x_39"></a><a href="#anc_x_39"><span class="label">[X_39]</span></a> Geoponic. xii. 25.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-x_40" id="footnote-x_40"></a><a href="#anc_x_40"><span class="label">[X_40]</span></a> Turneb. Advers. viii. 5.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-x_41" id="footnote-x_41"></a><a href="#anc_x_41"><span class="label">[X_41]</span></a> Ovid. Metam.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-x_42" id="footnote-x_42"></a><a href="#anc_x_42"><span class="label">[X_42]</span></a> Plin. xx. 14.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-x_43" id="footnote-x_43"></a><a href="#anc_x_43"><span class="label">[X_43]</span></a> Geoponic. xii. 24.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-x_44" id="footnote-x_44"></a><a href="#anc_x_44"><span class="label">[X_44]</span></a> Ovid. Art. Amat. ii. 418.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-x_45" id="footnote-x_45"></a><a href="#anc_x_45"><span class="label">[X_45]</span></a> Apicius, i. 29; iv. 2.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-x_46" id="footnote-x_46"></a><a href="#anc_x_46"><span class="label">[X_46]</span></a> Plin. xix. 8.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-x_47" id="footnote-x_47"></a><a href="#anc_x_47"><span class="label">[X_47]</span></a> Martial. iii. 77, 5.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-x_48" id="footnote-x_48"></a><a href="#anc_x_48"><span class="label">[X_48]</span></a> Apicius, i. 30.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-x_49" id="footnote-x_49"></a><a href="#anc_x_49"><span class="label">[X_49]</span></a> Id. x. 2, 7.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-x_50" id="footnote-x_50"></a><a href="#anc_x_50"><span class="label">[X_50]</span></a> Plin. xii. 7.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-x_51" id="footnote-x_51"></a><a href="#anc_x_51"><span class="label">[X_51]</span></a> Apicius.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-x_52" id="footnote-x_52"></a><a href="#anc_x_52"><span class="label">[X_52]</span></a> Lamprid. Elogab. 21.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-x_53" id="footnote-x_53"></a><a href="#anc_x_53"><span class="label">[X_53]</span></a> Plin. xxvii. 7.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-x_54" id="footnote-x_54"></a><a href="#anc_x_54"><span class="label">[X_54]</span></a> Strabo. Geograph. vii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-x_55" id="footnote-x_55"></a><a href="#anc_x_55"><span class="label">[X_55]</span></a> Apicius, i. 3.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-x_56" id="footnote-x_56"></a><a href="#anc_x_56"><span class="label">[X_56]</span></a> Martial. viii. 68.</p></div> - -<p class="c">XI.</p> - -<p class="c">FRUITS.</p> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xi_1" id="footnote-xi_1"></a><a href="#anc_xi_1"><span class="label">[XI_1]</span></a> Genes. ii. 16.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xi_2" id="footnote-xi_2"></a><a href="#anc_xi_2"><span class="label">[XI_2]</span></a> Deuteron. xx. 19.</p></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_420" id="page_420"></a>{420}</span></p> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xi_3" id="footnote-xi_3"></a><a href="#anc_xi_3"><span class="label">[XI_3]</span></a> Levitic. xix. 23, 24.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xi_4" id="footnote-xi_4"></a><a href="#anc_xi_4"><span class="label">[XI_4]</span></a> Deuteron. xx. 6.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xi_5" id="footnote-xi_5"></a><a href="#anc_xi_5"><span class="label">[XI_5]</span></a> Ovid. Metam. xiv. 623.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xi_6" id="footnote-xi_6"></a><a href="#anc_xi_6"><span class="label">[XI_6]</span></a> Propert. iv. 2, 10.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xi_7" id="footnote-xi_7"></a><a href="#anc_xi_7"><span class="label">[XI_7]</span></a> Ovid. Fast. i. 415.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xi_8" id="footnote-xi_8"></a><a href="#anc_xi_8"><span class="label">[XI_8]</span></a> Virgil. Georg. i. 18.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xi_9" id="footnote-xi_9"></a><a href="#anc_xi_9"><span class="label">[XI_9]</span></a> Natalis Comes. vii. 15.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xi_10" id="footnote-xi_10"></a><a href="#anc_xi_10"><span class="label">[XI_10]</span></a> Id. ii. 1.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xi_11" id="footnote-xi_11"></a><a href="#anc_xi_11"><span class="label">[XI_11]</span></a> Id. i. 10.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xi_12" id="footnote-xi_12"></a><a href="#anc_xi_12"><span class="label">[XI_12]</span></a> Tibull. ii. 3, 67.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xi_13" id="footnote-xi_13"></a><a href="#anc_xi_13"><span class="label">[XI_13]</span></a> Athen. ix.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xi_14" id="footnote-xi_14"></a><a href="#anc_xi_14"><span class="label">[XI_14]</span></a> Sueton. In August. 76.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xi_15" id="footnote-xi_15"></a><a href="#anc_xi_15"><span class="label">[XI_15]</span></a> Vid. Stuckium, Nonnium, Bruyerinum, &c.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xi_16" id="footnote-xi_16"></a><a href="#anc_xi_16"><span class="label">[XI_16]</span></a> Seneca, Epist 122.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xi_17" id="footnote-xi_17"></a><a href="#anc_xi_17"><span class="label">[XI_17]</span></a> Id. De Irâ, i. 16.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xi_18" id="footnote-xi_18"></a><a href="#anc_xi_18"><span class="label">[XI_18]</span></a> Id. Controv. v. 5.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xi_19" id="footnote-xi_19"></a><a href="#anc_xi_19"><span class="label">[XI_19]</span></a> Apicius, i. 20.</p></div> - -<p class="c">XII.</p> - -<p class="c">STONE FRUIT.</p> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xii_1" id="footnote-xii_1"></a><a href="#anc_xii_1"><span class="label">[XII_1]</span></a> Constant. Cæs. ix. 1.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xii_2" id="footnote-xii_2"></a><a href="#anc_xii_2"><span class="label">[XII_2]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xii_3" id="footnote-xii_3"></a><a href="#anc_xii_3"><span class="label">[XII_3]</span></a> Æsch. Agam.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xii_4" id="footnote-xii_4"></a><a href="#anc_xii_4"><span class="label">[XII_4]</span></a> Statius. Theb. ii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xii_5" id="footnote-xii_5"></a><a href="#anc_xii_5"><span class="label">[XII_5]</span></a> Euripid. Heracl. act ii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xii_6" id="footnote-xii_6"></a><a href="#anc_xii_6"><span class="label">[XII_6]</span></a> Apollon. Rhod. iv.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xii_7" id="footnote-xii_7"></a><a href="#anc_xii_7"><span class="label">[XII_7]</span></a> Id. ii. et ibi Scholiast.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xii_8" id="footnote-xii_8"></a><a href="#anc_xii_8"><span class="label">[XII_8]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xii_9" id="footnote-xii_9"></a><a href="#anc_xii_9"><span class="label">[XII_9]</span></a> Diodor. Sicul. vi.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xii_10" id="footnote-xii_10"></a><a href="#anc_xii_10"><span class="label">[XII_10]</span></a> Genes. i. 11, 12.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xii_11" id="footnote-xii_11"></a><a href="#anc_xii_11"><span class="label">[XII_11]</span></a> Genes. xxviii. 18.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xii_12" id="footnote-xii_12"></a><a href="#anc_xii_12"><span class="label">[XII_12]</span></a> Diodor. v.; Justin. xiii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xii_13" id="footnote-xii_13"></a><a href="#anc_xii_13"><span class="label">[XII_13]</span></a> Exod. xxv. 6.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xii_14" id="footnote-xii_14"></a><a href="#anc_xii_14"><span class="label">[XII_14]</span></a> Ibid. xxix. 7.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xii_15" id="footnote-xii_15"></a><a href="#anc_xii_15"><span class="label">[XII_15]</span></a> Ibid. xxiii. 40.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xii_16" id="footnote-xii_16"></a><a href="#anc_xii_16"><span class="label">[XII_16]</span></a> Exod. Levitic. Numer. Deuteronom. passim.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xii_17" id="footnote-xii_17"></a><a href="#anc_xii_17"><span class="label">[XII_17]</span></a> Mishna.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xii_18" id="footnote-xii_18"></a><a href="#anc_xii_18"><span class="label">[XII_18]</span></a> Plin. xv. 4.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xii_19" id="footnote-xii_19"></a><a href="#anc_xii_19"><span class="label">[XII_19]</span></a> Athen. ii. 25.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xii_20" id="footnote-xii_20"></a><a href="#anc_xii_20"><span class="label">[XII_20]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xii_21" id="footnote-xii_21"></a><a href="#anc_xii_21"><span class="label">[XII_21]</span></a> Id. iv. 4.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xii_22" id="footnote-xii_22"></a><a href="#anc_xii_22"><span class="label">[XII_22]</span></a> Plin. xxiii. 3.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xii_23" id="footnote-xii_23"></a><a href="#anc_xii_23"><span class="label">[XII_23]</span></a> Ruellius.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xii_24" id="footnote-xii_24"></a><a href="#anc_xii_24"><span class="label">[XII_24]</span></a> Athen. ii. 8.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xii_25" id="footnote-xii_25"></a><a href="#anc_xii_25"><span class="label">[XII_25]</span></a> Theophrast. Hist Plantar. passim.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xii_26" id="footnote-xii_26"></a><a href="#anc_xii_26"><span class="label">[XII_26]</span></a> Plin. xv. 1.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xii_27" id="footnote-xii_27"></a><a href="#anc_xii_27"><span class="label">[XII_27]</span></a> Id. i. 2.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xii_28" id="footnote-xii_28"></a><a href="#anc_xii_28"><span class="label">[XII_28]</span></a> Id. viii., xii., xv., xvi.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xii_29" id="footnote-xii_29"></a><a href="#anc_xii_29"><span class="label">[XII_29]</span></a> Cato. i. 1, 3, 31, 67, 68, 144.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xii_30" id="footnote-xii_30"></a><a href="#anc_xii_30"><span class="label">[XII_30]</span></a> Varro. R. R. i. 2.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xii_31" id="footnote-xii_31"></a><a href="#anc_xii_31"><span class="label">[XII_31]</span></a> Columell. i. 6, v. 8; xii. 50.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xii_32" id="footnote-xii_32"></a><a href="#anc_xii_32"><span class="label">[XII_32]</span></a> Plin. xv. 3.; Mathiol. In Dioscorid. i.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xii_33" id="footnote-xii_33"></a><a href="#anc_xii_33"><span class="label">[XII_33]</span></a> Plin. loc. cit.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xii_34" id="footnote-xii_34"></a><a href="#anc_xii_34"><span class="label">[XII_34]</span></a> Martial, xii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xii_35" id="footnote-xii_35"></a><a href="#anc_xii_35"><span class="label">[XII_35]</span></a> Tit. Liv.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xii_36" id="footnote-xii_36"></a><a href="#anc_xii_36"><span class="label">[XII_36]</span></a> Spartian. xxii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xii_37" id="footnote-xii_37"></a><a href="#anc_xii_37"><span class="label">[XII_37]</span></a> Horat. Od. 6. lib. ii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xii_38" id="footnote-xii_38"></a><a href="#anc_xii_38"><span class="label">[XII_38]</span></a> Plin. xiii. 2.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xii_39" id="footnote-xii_39"></a><a href="#anc_xii_39"><span class="label">[XII_39]</span></a> Sueton. In Cæs. 53.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xii_40" id="footnote-xii_40"></a><a href="#anc_xii_40"><span class="label">[XII_40]</span></a> Salmas. De Homonym. Hyles Intricæ. cap. 103.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xii_41" id="footnote-xii_41"></a><a href="#anc_xii_41"><span class="label">[XII_41]</span></a> Plin. xxii. 24.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xii_42" id="footnote-xii_42"></a><a href="#anc_xii_42"><span class="label">[XII_42]</span></a> See p. 269.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xii_43" id="footnote-xii_43"></a><a href="#anc_xii_43"><span class="label">[XII_43]</span></a> Apicius, i. 5.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xii_44" id="footnote-xii_44"></a><a href="#anc_xii_44"><span class="label">[XII_44]</span></a> Vid. Pontan.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xii_45" id="footnote-xii_45"></a><a href="#anc_xii_45"><span class="label">[XII_45]</span></a> Natal. Com. vii. 15.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xii_46" id="footnote-xii_46"></a><a href="#anc_xii_46"><span class="label">[XII_46]</span></a> Bibl. Sacr. passim.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xii_47" id="footnote-xii_47"></a><a href="#anc_xii_47"><span class="label">[XII_47]</span></a> Levitic. x. 9; Deuteron. xiv. 26.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xii_48" id="footnote-xii_48"></a><a href="#anc_xii_48"><span class="label">[XII_48]</span></a> Guénée, Lettres de Quelques Juifs, tom. iii. p. 270, -edit. 8vo.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xii_49" id="footnote-xii_49"></a><a href="#anc_xii_49"><span class="label">[XII_49]</span></a> Joseph. De Bell. Judaic. ii. 2.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xii_50" id="footnote-xii_50"></a><a href="#anc_xii_50"><span class="label">[XII_50]</span></a> Theophrast. ii. 8.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xii_51" id="footnote-xii_51"></a><a href="#anc_xii_51"><span class="label">[XII_51]</span></a> Plin. xiii. 14.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xii_52" id="footnote-xii_52"></a><a href="#anc_xii_52"><span class="label">[XII_52]</span></a> Plutarch.; Athen.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xii_53" id="footnote-xii_53"></a><a href="#anc_xii_53"><span class="label">[XII_53]</span></a> Hieronym. Ad Eustochium, epist. 19.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xii_54" id="footnote-xii_54"></a><a href="#anc_xii_54"><span class="label">[XII_54]</span></a> Plin. xv. 25; Ammian. Marcell. xx. 13.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xii_55" id="footnote-xii_55"></a><a href="#anc_xii_55"><span class="label">[XII_55]</span></a> Plin. xv. 25.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xii_56" id="footnote-xii_56"></a><a href="#anc_xii_56"><span class="label">[XII_56]</span></a> Virgil. Georg.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xii_57" id="footnote-xii_57"></a><a href="#anc_xii_57"><span class="label">[XII_57]</span></a> Athen. ii. 11.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xii_58" id="footnote-xii_58"></a><a href="#anc_xii_58"><span class="label">[XII_58]</span></a> Theophrast. iii. 13; ix. 1.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xii_59" id="footnote-xii_59"></a><a href="#anc_xii_59"><span class="label">[XII_59]</span></a> Plin. xv. 25.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xii_60" id="footnote-xii_60"></a><a href="#anc_xii_60"><span class="label">[XII_60]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xii_61" id="footnote-xii_61"></a><a href="#anc_xii_61"><span class="label">[XII_61]</span></a> Columell. v. 10; xi. 2.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xii_62" id="footnote-xii_62"></a><a href="#anc_xii_62"><span class="label">[XII_62]</span></a> Galen. De Aliment. Facultat. ii.; Dioscorid. i. 131.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xii_63" id="footnote-xii_63"></a><a href="#anc_xii_63"><span class="label">[XII_63]</span></a> Plin. xv.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xii_64" id="footnote-xii_64"></a><a href="#anc_xii_64"><span class="label">[XII_64]</span></a> Theophrast. iii. 5.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xii_65" id="footnote-xii_65"></a><a href="#anc_xii_65"><span class="label">[XII_65]</span></a> Plin. xv. 14.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xii_66" id="footnote-xii_66"></a><a href="#anc_xii_66"><span class="label">[XII_66]</span></a> Columell. x. 17.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xii_67" id="footnote-xii_67"></a><a href="#anc_xii_67"><span class="label">[XII_67]</span></a> Plin. xiii. 9; xv. 13.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xii_68" id="footnote-xii_68"></a><a href="#anc_xii_68"><span class="label">[XII_68]</span></a> Galen. ii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xii_69" id="footnote-xii_69"></a><a href="#anc_xii_69"><span class="label">[XII_69]</span></a> Dioscorid. i. 131.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xii_70" id="footnote-xii_70"></a><a href="#anc_xii_70"><span class="label">[XII_70]</span></a> Apicius, i. 26.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xii_71" id="footnote-xii_71"></a><a href="#anc_xii_71"><span class="label">[XII_71]</span></a> Theophrast. i. 11; iv. 3; ix. 1.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xii_72" id="footnote-xii_72"></a><a href="#anc_xii_72"><span class="label">[XII_72]</span></a> Athen. ii. 10.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xii_73" id="footnote-xii_73"></a><a href="#anc_xii_73"><span class="label">[XII_73]</span></a> Theophrast. et Athen. loc. cit.; Geoponic. x. 40.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xii_74" id="footnote-xii_74"></a><a href="#anc_xii_74"><span class="label">[XII_74]</span></a> Virgil. Eclog. ii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xii_75" id="footnote-xii_75"></a><a href="#anc_xii_75"><span class="label">[XII_75]</span></a> Plin. xiii. 10; xv. 12.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xii_76" id="footnote-xii_76"></a><a href="#anc_xii_76"><span class="label">[XII_76]</span></a> Dictionnaire des Origines.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xii_77" id="footnote-xii_77"></a><a href="#anc_xii_77"><span class="label">[XII_77]</span></a> Mémoires de Dangeau.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xii_78" id="footnote-xii_78"></a><a href="#anc_xii_78"><span class="label">[XII_78]</span></a> Gaillard, Hist. de François I.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xii_79" id="footnote-xii_79"></a><a href="#anc_xii_79"><span class="label">[XII_79]</span></a> Théâtre d’Agriculture.</p></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_421" id="page_421"></a>{421}</span></p> - -<p class="c">XIII.</p> - -<p class="c">PIP FRUIT.</p> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiii_1" id="footnote-xiii_1"></a><a href="#anc_xiii_1"><span class="label">[XIII_1]</span></a> Theophrast. ii. 4.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiii_2" id="footnote-xiii_2"></a><a href="#anc_xiii_2"><span class="label">[XIII_2]</span></a> Athen. iii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiii_3" id="footnote-xiii_3"></a><a href="#anc_xiii_3"><span class="label">[XIII_3]</span></a> Cato. De Re Rusticâ.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiii_4" id="footnote-xiii_4"></a><a href="#anc_xiii_4"><span class="label">[XIII_4]</span></a> Plin. xv. 11.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiii_5" id="footnote-xiii_5"></a><a href="#anc_xiii_5"><span class="label">[XIII_5]</span></a> Galen. De Aliment. Facult.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiii_6" id="footnote-xiii_6"></a><a href="#anc_xiii_6"><span class="label">[XIII_6]</span></a> Columell. v. 10.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiii_7" id="footnote-xiii_7"></a><a href="#anc_xiii_7"><span class="label">[XIII_7]</span></a> Pallad. xi. 20.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiii_8" id="footnote-xiii_8"></a><a href="#anc_xiii_8"><span class="label">[XIII_8]</span></a> Forum Cupedinarium.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiii_9" id="footnote-xiii_9"></a><a href="#anc_xiii_9"><span class="label">[XIII_9]</span></a> Dioscorid. v. 20.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiii_10" id="footnote-xiii_10"></a><a href="#anc_xiii_10"><span class="label">[XIII_10]</span></a> Ulpian. ix. Sess. de Trit. Vin. OI.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiii_11" id="footnote-xiii_11"></a><a href="#anc_xiii_11"><span class="label">[XIII_11]</span></a> Athen. iii. 6.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiii_12" id="footnote-xiii_12"></a><a href="#anc_xiii_12"><span class="label">[XIII_12]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiii_13" id="footnote-xiii_13"></a><a href="#anc_xiii_13"><span class="label">[XIII_13]</span></a> Apicius, i. 19.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiii_14" id="footnote-xiii_14"></a><a href="#anc_xiii_14"><span class="label">[XIII_14]</span></a> <span class="smcap">II.</span> Reg. v. 23, 24; 1 Paralip. xiv. 14, 15.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiii_15" id="footnote-xiii_15"></a><a href="#anc_xiii_15"><span class="label">[XIII_15]</span></a> Theophrast. ii. 23, et passim.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiii_16" id="footnote-xiii_16"></a><a href="#anc_xiii_16"><span class="label">[XIII_16]</span></a> Plin. xv. 15.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiii_17" id="footnote-xiii_17"></a><a href="#anc_xiii_17"><span class="label">[XIII_17]</span></a> Galen. De Simpl. Medicam. v.; De Aliment. Facult. -ii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiii_18" id="footnote-xiii_18"></a><a href="#anc_xiii_18"><span class="label">[XIII_18]</span></a> Grandes Chroniques Françaises; Vita B. Francisc.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiii_19" id="footnote-xiii_19"></a><a href="#anc_xiii_19"><span class="label">[XIII_19]</span></a> Cant. ii. 3, 5; vii. 8; viii. 5; Joel, i. 12.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiii_20" id="footnote-xiii_20"></a><a href="#anc_xiii_20"><span class="label">[XIII_20]</span></a> Cant. ii. 3.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiii_21" id="footnote-xiii_21"></a><a href="#anc_xiii_21"><span class="label">[XIII_21]</span></a> Bruyerin. xi. 16.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiii_22" id="footnote-xiii_22"></a><a href="#anc_xiii_22"><span class="label">[XIII_22]</span></a> Athen. i. 21.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiii_23" id="footnote-xiii_23"></a><a href="#anc_xiii_23"><span class="label">[XIII_23]</span></a> Strab. xv.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiii_24" id="footnote-xiii_24"></a><a href="#anc_xiii_24"><span class="label">[XIII_24]</span></a> Turneb. De Vino. p. 22.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiii_25" id="footnote-xiii_25"></a><a href="#anc_xiii_25"><span class="label">[XIII_25]</span></a> Virgil. Georg. ii. 126, et seqq.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiii_26" id="footnote-xiii_26"></a><a href="#anc_xiii_26"><span class="label">[XIII_26]</span></a> Athen. iii. 4.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiii_27" id="footnote-xiii_27"></a><a href="#anc_xiii_27"><span class="label">[XIII_27]</span></a> Theophrast. i. 22; iv. 4; viii. 8.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiii_28" id="footnote-xiii_28"></a><a href="#anc_xiii_28"><span class="label">[XIII_28]</span></a> Athen. loc. cit.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiii_29" id="footnote-xiii_29"></a><a href="#anc_xiii_29"><span class="label">[XIII_29]</span></a> Dioscorid. i. 136.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiii_30" id="footnote-xiii_30"></a><a href="#anc_xiii_30"><span class="label">[XIII_30]</span></a> Athen. loc. cit.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiii_31" id="footnote-xiii_31"></a><a href="#anc_xiii_31"><span class="label">[XIII_31]</span></a> Lib. i. cap. 21. Lond. 1705, 8vo.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiii_32" id="footnote-xiii_32"></a><a href="#anc_xiii_32"><span class="label">[XIII_32]</span></a> Plin. xii. 3; xxiii. 6; xxv. 28.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiii_33" id="footnote-xiii_33"></a><a href="#anc_xiii_33"><span class="label">[XIII_33]</span></a> Pallad. xii. 7.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiii_34" id="footnote-xiii_34"></a><a href="#anc_xiii_34"><span class="label">[XIII_34]</span></a> Athen. iii. 4.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiii_35" id="footnote-xiii_35"></a><a href="#anc_xiii_35"><span class="label">[XIII_35]</span></a> Apicius, i. 21.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiii_36" id="footnote-xiii_36"></a><a href="#anc_xiii_36"><span class="label">[XIII_36]</span></a> Plin. xxiii. 6; Athen. iii. 4; Galen. Simplic. Medic, -vii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiii_37" id="footnote-xiii_37"></a><a href="#anc_xiii_37"><span class="label">[XIII_37]</span></a> Année Littéraire, 1755.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiii_38" id="footnote-xiii_38"></a><a href="#anc_xiii_38"><span class="label">[XIII_38]</span></a> Nouveau Dict. Class. d’Hist. Nat. Paris, 1844.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiii_39" id="footnote-xiii_39"></a><a href="#anc_xiii_39"><span class="label">[XIII_39]</span></a> Année Littér. 1755.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiii_40" id="footnote-xiii_40"></a><a href="#anc_xiii_40"><span class="label">[XIII_40]</span></a> Brand’s Popular Antiquities, vol. i. p. 9.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiii_41" id="footnote-xiii_41"></a><a href="#anc_xiii_41"><span class="label">[XIII_41]</span></a> Dictionnaire d’Histoire Naturelle.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiii_42" id="footnote-xiii_42"></a><a href="#anc_xiii_42"><span class="label">[XIII_42]</span></a> Genes. iii. 7.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiii_43" id="footnote-xiii_43"></a><a href="#anc_xiii_43"><span class="label">[XIII_43]</span></a> Num. xx. 5.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiii_44" id="footnote-xiii_44"></a><a href="#anc_xiii_44"><span class="label">[XIII_44]</span></a> Ibid. 24, 28.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiii_45" id="footnote-xiii_45"></a><a href="#anc_xiii_45"><span class="label">[XIII_45]</span></a> <span class="smcap">II.</span> Reg. iv. 25.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiii_46" id="footnote-xiii_46"></a><a href="#anc_xiii_46"><span class="label">[XIII_46]</span></a> <span class="smcap">IV.</span> Reg. xviii. 31.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiii_47" id="footnote-xiii_47"></a><a href="#anc_xiii_47"><span class="label">[XIII_47]</span></a> Guénée, Lettr. de Quelq. Juifs, tom. iii. pp. 271, -272.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiii_48" id="footnote-xiii_48"></a><a href="#anc_xiii_48"><span class="label">[XIII_48]</span></a> Pausan. In Atticis.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiii_49" id="footnote-xiii_49"></a><a href="#anc_xiii_49"><span class="label">[XIII_49]</span></a> Athen. iii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiii_50" id="footnote-xiii_50"></a><a href="#anc_xiii_50"><span class="label">[XIII_50]</span></a> Id. iii. 2.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiii_51" id="footnote-xiii_51"></a><a href="#anc_xiii_51"><span class="label">[XIII_51]</span></a> <i>Sukon</i>, fig, and <i>phainô</i></p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiii_52" id="footnote-xiii_52"></a><a href="#anc_xiii_52"><span class="label">[XIII_52]</span></a> Plutarch. De Curiosit.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiii_53" id="footnote-xiii_53"></a><a href="#anc_xiii_53"><span class="label">[XIII_53]</span></a> Athen. xiv.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiii_54" id="footnote-xiii_54"></a><a href="#anc_xiii_54"><span class="label">[XIII_54]</span></a> Plin. xv. 18.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiii_55" id="footnote-xiii_55"></a><a href="#anc_xiii_55"><span class="label">[XIII_55]</span></a> Cato. R. R. 94, 99, 133.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiii_56" id="footnote-xiii_56"></a><a href="#anc_xiii_56"><span class="label">[XIII_56]</span></a> Varro. R. R.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiii_57" id="footnote-xiii_57"></a><a href="#anc_xiii_57"><span class="label">[XIII_57]</span></a> Plin. loc. cit.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiii_58" id="footnote-xiii_58"></a><a href="#anc_xiii_58"><span class="label">[XIII_58]</span></a> Athen. iii. 14.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiii_59" id="footnote-xiii_59"></a><a href="#anc_xiii_59"><span class="label">[XIII_59]</span></a> Bruyerin. xi. 37.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiii_60" id="footnote-xiii_60"></a><a href="#anc_xiii_60"><span class="label">[XIII_60]</span></a> <span class="smcap">I.</span> Reg. xxv. 18, 27.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiii_61" id="footnote-xiii_61"></a><a href="#anc_xiii_61"><span class="label">[XIII_61]</span></a> Clem. Alex. In Pædag.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiii_62" id="footnote-xiii_62"></a><a href="#anc_xiii_62"><span class="label">[XIII_62]</span></a> Plin. xii. 1; Plutarch. In Camill. 390 <small>B.C.</small></p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiii_63" id="footnote-xiii_63"></a><a href="#anc_xiii_63"><span class="label">[XIII_63]</span></a> Athen. iii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiii_64" id="footnote-xiii_64"></a><a href="#anc_xiii_64"><span class="label">[XIII_64]</span></a> Galen. De Cibis Boni et Mali Succi.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiii_65" id="footnote-xiii_65"></a><a href="#anc_xiii_65"><span class="label">[XIII_65]</span></a> Hippocrat. De Diœt. ii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiii_66" id="footnote-xiii_66"></a><a href="#anc_xiii_66"><span class="label">[XIII_66]</span></a> Plin. xxiv. 14; Dioscorid. iv. 33.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiii_67" id="footnote-xiii_67"></a><a href="#anc_xiii_67"><span class="label">[XIII_67]</span></a> <i>Uva crispa</i>, and <i>ribes</i>.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiii_68" id="footnote-xiii_68"></a><a href="#anc_xiii_68"><span class="label">[XIII_68]</span></a> Mathiol. In Dioscorid. i. 105.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiii_69" id="footnote-xiii_69"></a><a href="#anc_xiii_69"><span class="label">[XIII_69]</span></a> Virgil. Eclog. iii. 92.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiii_70" id="footnote-xiii_70"></a><a href="#anc_xiii_70"><span class="label">[XIII_70]</span></a> Ovid. Metam. xiii. 816.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiii_71" id="footnote-xiii_71"></a><a href="#anc_xiii_71"><span class="label">[XIII_71]</span></a> Id. Ibid. i. 104.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiii_72" id="footnote-xiii_72"></a><a href="#anc_xiii_72"><span class="label">[XIII_72]</span></a> Plin. xvi. 25.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiii_73" id="footnote-xiii_73"></a><a href="#anc_xiii_73"><span class="label">[XIII_73]</span></a> Athen. ii. 12.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiii_74" id="footnote-xiii_74"></a><a href="#anc_xiii_74"><span class="label">[XIII_74]</span></a> Apicius, i. 22.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiii_75" id="footnote-xiii_75"></a><a href="#anc_xiii_75"><span class="label">[XIII_75]</span></a> Psalm lxxxiv. 6; I. Chron. xiv. 14, 15.</p></div> - -<p class="c">XIV.</p> - -<p class="c">SHELL FRUIT.</p> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiv_1" id="footnote-xiv_1"></a><a href="#anc_xiv_1"><span class="label">[XIV_1]</span></a> Macrob. 2; Saturnal. 14; Columell. v. 10.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiv_2" id="footnote-xiv_2"></a><a href="#anc_xiv_2"><span class="label">[XIV_2]</span></a> Athen. i. 49.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiv_3" id="footnote-xiv_3"></a><a href="#anc_xiv_3"><span class="label">[XIV_3]</span></a> Genes. xliii. 11.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiv_4" id="footnote-xiv_4"></a><a href="#anc_xiv_4"><span class="label">[XIV_4]</span></a> Athen. iii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiv_5" id="footnote-xiv_5"></a><a href="#anc_xiv_5"><span class="label">[XIV_5]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiv_6" id="footnote-xiv_6"></a><a href="#anc_xiv_6"><span class="label">[XIV_6]</span></a> Apicius, iv. 2.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiv_7" id="footnote-xiv_7"></a><a href="#anc_xiv_7"><span class="label">[XIV_7]</span></a> Plin. xxiii. 4.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiv_8" id="footnote-xiv_8"></a><a href="#anc_xiv_8"><span class="label">[XIV_8]</span></a> Id. xvi. 25.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiv_9" id="footnote-xiv_9"></a><a href="#anc_xiv_9"><span class="label">[XIV_9]</span></a> Dutour; Amandier.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiv_10" id="footnote-xiv_10"></a><a href="#anc_xiv_10"><span class="label">[XIV_10]</span></a> Theophrast. Hist. Plant.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiv_11" id="footnote-xiv_11"></a><a href="#anc_xiv_11"><span class="label">[XIV_11]</span></a> Exod. xxv. 33; xxxvii. 19.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiv_12" id="footnote-xiv_12"></a><a href="#anc_xiv_12"><span class="label">[XIV_12]</span></a> Cant. vi. 10.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiv_13" id="footnote-xiv_13"></a><a href="#anc_xiv_13"><span class="label">[XIV_13]</span></a> Plin. xv. 22.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiv_14" id="footnote-xiv_14"></a><a href="#anc_xiv_14"><span class="label">[XIV_14]</span></a> Varro. L. L. iv.; Dioscorid. i. 141.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiv_15" id="footnote-xiv_15"></a><a href="#anc_xiv_15"><span class="label">[XIV_15]</span></a> Theophrast. i. 3, et passim.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiv_16" id="footnote-xiv_16"></a><a href="#anc_xiv_16"><span class="label">[XIV_16]</span></a> Catul. In Epithal. Tulliæ et Malli.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiv_17" id="footnote-xiv_17"></a><a href="#anc_xiv_17"><span class="label">[XIV_17]</span></a> Servius, In Virgil. Eclog. viii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiv_18" id="footnote-xiv_18"></a><a href="#anc_xiv_18"><span class="label">[XIV_18]</span></a> Plin. xv. 22.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiv_19" id="footnote-xiv_19"></a><a href="#anc_xiv_19"><span class="label">[XIV_19]</span></a> Pers. Sat. i.; Hesych. Lexic. voc. Nux.</p></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_422" id="page_422"></a>{422}</span></p> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiv_20" id="footnote-xiv_20"></a><a href="#anc_xiv_20"><span class="label">[XIV_20]</span></a> Galen. Simpl. Medicam.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiv_21" id="footnote-xiv_21"></a><a href="#anc_xiv_21"><span class="label">[XIV_21]</span></a> Mathiol. In Dioscorid. i. 141.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiv_22" id="footnote-xiv_22"></a><a href="#anc_xiv_22"><span class="label">[XIV_22]</span></a> Avicen. v. 4.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiv_23" id="footnote-xiv_23"></a><a href="#anc_xiv_23"><span class="label">[XIV_23]</span></a> Athen. ii. 7.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiv_24" id="footnote-xiv_24"></a><a href="#anc_xiv_24"><span class="label">[XIV_24]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiv_25" id="footnote-xiv_25"></a><a href="#anc_xiv_25"><span class="label">[XIV_25]</span></a> Plin. xxiii. 8; Q. Seren. Sammonic.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiv_26" id="footnote-xiv_26"></a><a href="#anc_xiv_26"><span class="label">[XIV_26]</span></a> Theophrast. i. 5; Athen. ii. 7.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiv_27" id="footnote-xiv_27"></a><a href="#anc_xiv_27"><span class="label">[XIV_27]</span></a> Cato. R. R. 8; Macrob. Saturnal. iii. 18.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiv_28" id="footnote-xiv_28"></a><a href="#anc_xiv_28"><span class="label">[XIV_28]</span></a> Nucula. Festus.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiv_29" id="footnote-xiv_29"></a><a href="#anc_xiv_29"><span class="label">[XIV_29]</span></a> Nonnius. i. 37.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiv_30" id="footnote-xiv_30"></a><a href="#anc_xiv_30"><span class="label">[XIV_30]</span></a> Galen. De Aliment. Facult. ii.; Dioscorid. i. 42.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiv_31" id="footnote-xiv_31"></a><a href="#anc_xiv_31"><span class="label">[XIV_31]</span></a> Hospinian. De Orig. Fester. Christian. fol. 113. B.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiv_32" id="footnote-xiv_32"></a><a href="#anc_xiv_32"><span class="label">[XIV_32]</span></a> Plin. xiii. 5.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiv_33" id="footnote-xiv_33"></a><a href="#anc_xiv_33"><span class="label">[XIV_33]</span></a> Theophrast. iv. 5.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiv_34" id="footnote-xiv_34"></a><a href="#anc_xiv_34"><span class="label">[XIV_34]</span></a> Plin. xv. 22.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiv_35" id="footnote-xiv_35"></a><a href="#anc_xiv_35"><span class="label">[XIV_35]</span></a> Galen. De Alim. Facult. ii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiv_36" id="footnote-xiv_36"></a><a href="#anc_xiv_36"><span class="label">[XIV_36]</span></a> Avicen. lib. ii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiv_37" id="footnote-xiv_37"></a><a href="#anc_xiv_37"><span class="label">[XIV_37]</span></a> Athen. ii. 13.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiv_38" id="footnote-xiv_38"></a><a href="#anc_xiv_38"><span class="label">[XIV_38]</span></a> Virgil. Eclog. ii. 52.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiv_39" id="footnote-xiv_39"></a><a href="#anc_xiv_39"><span class="label">[XIV_39]</span></a> Id. Eclog. i. 82.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiv_40" id="footnote-xiv_40"></a><a href="#anc_xiv_40"><span class="label">[XIV_40]</span></a> Nicand. Interp. Turneb.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiv_41" id="footnote-xiv_41"></a><a href="#anc_xiv_41"><span class="label">[XIV_41]</span></a> Sipont.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiv_42" id="footnote-xiv_42"></a><a href="#anc_xiv_42"><span class="label">[XIV_42]</span></a> Natalis Comes. iii. 16.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiv_43" id="footnote-xiv_43"></a><a href="#anc_xiv_43"><span class="label">[XIV_43]</span></a> Martial. i. 44.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiv_44" id="footnote-xiv_44"></a><a href="#anc_xiv_44"><span class="label">[XIV_44]</span></a> Columell. xii. 41.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiv_45" id="footnote-xiv_45"></a><a href="#anc_xiv_45"><span class="label">[XIV_45]</span></a> Plin. xiii. 19.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiv_46" id="footnote-xiv_46"></a><a href="#anc_xiv_46"><span class="label">[XIV_46]</span></a> Columell. loc. cit.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiv_47" id="footnote-xiv_47"></a><a href="#anc_xiv_47"><span class="label">[XIV_47]</span></a> Apicius, i. 18.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiv_48" id="footnote-xiv_48"></a><a href="#anc_xiv_48"><span class="label">[XIV_48]</span></a> Athen. xiv.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xiv_49" id="footnote-xiv_49"></a><a href="#anc_xiv_49"><span class="label">[XIV_49]</span></a> Pausan. et Diodor. passim.</p></div> - -<p class="c">XV.</p> - -<p class="c">ANIMAL FOOD.</p> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xv_1" id="footnote-xv_1"></a><a href="#anc_xv_1"><span class="label">[XV_1]</span></a> Genes. i. 29; iii. 17, 18, 19.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xv_2" id="footnote-xv_2"></a><a href="#anc_xv_2"><span class="label">[XV_2]</span></a> Ibid. iii. 21.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xv_3" id="footnote-xv_3"></a><a href="#anc_xv_3"><span class="label">[XV_3]</span></a> Ibid. iii. 19.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xv_4" id="footnote-xv_4"></a><a href="#anc_xv_4"><span class="label">[XV_4]</span></a> Ibid. iv. 4.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xv_5" id="footnote-xv_5"></a><a href="#anc_xv_5"><span class="label">[XV_5]</span></a> Ibid. xviii. 8.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xv_6" id="footnote-xv_6"></a><a href="#anc_xv_6"><span class="label">[XV_6]</span></a> Xenoph. De Cyri Expedit.; Varro. R. R. ii. 1; Bruyerin. -ii. 1; iv. 1.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xv_7" id="footnote-xv_7"></a><a href="#anc_xv_7"><span class="label">[XV_7]</span></a> Hieronym. Adv. Jovin. Arnob. Cont. Gent. ii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xv_8" id="footnote-xv_8"></a><a href="#anc_xv_8"><span class="label">[XV_8]</span></a> Plutarch. De Esu Carn.; Porphyr. De Non Necand. &c.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xv_9" id="footnote-xv_9"></a><a href="#anc_xv_9"><span class="label">[XV_9]</span></a> Bossuet, Discours sur l’Hist. Universel.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xv_10" id="footnote-xv_10"></a><a href="#anc_xv_10"><span class="label">[XV_10]</span></a> Genes, ix. 3.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xv_11" id="footnote-xv_11"></a><a href="#anc_xv_11"><span class="label">[XV_11]</span></a> Herodot. Hist. i.; Virgil. Georg. i.; Ovid. Metam. i. -et xv.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xv_12" id="footnote-xv_12"></a><a href="#anc_xv_12"><span class="label">[XV_12]</span></a> Bruyerin. ii. 1; Plin. xvi. 5.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xv_13" id="footnote-xv_13"></a><a href="#anc_xv_13"><span class="label">[XV_13]</span></a> Ovid. Metam. i. 3.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xv_14" id="footnote-xv_14"></a><a href="#anc_xv_14"><span class="label">[XV_14]</span></a> Porphyr. De Non Necandis ad Epuland. Animantib. i.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xv_15" id="footnote-xv_15"></a><a href="#anc_xv_15"><span class="label">[XV_15]</span></a> Plin. vii. 5; Porphyr. i. ii.; Polyd. Virgil. De Rer. -Inventor. iii. 2.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xv_16" id="footnote-xv_16"></a><a href="#anc_xv_16"><span class="label">[XV_16]</span></a> 756 years after the Deluge.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xv_17" id="footnote-xv_17"></a><a href="#anc_xv_17"><span class="label">[XV_17]</span></a> 943 years after the Deluge; Athen. ix. Var. R. R. ii. -4; Ovid. Metam. xv.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xv_18" id="footnote-xv_18"></a><a href="#anc_xv_18"><span class="label">[XV_18]</span></a> Ibid. loc. cit.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xv_19" id="footnote-xv_19"></a><a href="#anc_xv_19"><span class="label">[XV_19]</span></a> Plin. vii. 56.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xv_20" id="footnote-xv_20"></a><a href="#anc_xv_20"><span class="label">[XV_20]</span></a> La Fontaine, Les Animaux Malades de la Peste.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xv_21" id="footnote-xv_21"></a><a href="#anc_xv_21"><span class="label">[XV_21]</span></a> Plin. loc. cit.; Nonnius ii. 1; Ælian. Var. Hist. i. 3; -Paus. i.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xv_22" id="footnote-xv_22"></a><a href="#anc_xv_22"><span class="label">[XV_22]</span></a> 895 <small>B.C.</small></p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xv_23" id="footnote-xv_23"></a><a href="#anc_xv_23"><span class="label">[XV_23]</span></a> Porphyr. loc cit.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xv_24" id="footnote-xv_24"></a><a href="#anc_xv_24"><span class="label">[XV_24]</span></a> Homer. passim.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xv_25" id="footnote-xv_25"></a><a href="#anc_xv_25"><span class="label">[XV_25]</span></a> Plutarch. De Esu Carnium.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xv_26" id="footnote-xv_26"></a><a href="#anc_xv_26"><span class="label">[XV_26]</span></a> Genes. ix. 3.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xv_27" id="footnote-xv_27"></a><a href="#anc_xv_27"><span class="label">[XV_27]</span></a> Levitic. xxii. 24.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xv_28" id="footnote-xv_28"></a><a href="#anc_xv_28"><span class="label">[XV_28]</span></a> Deuteron. xxv. 4.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xv_29" id="footnote-xv_29"></a><a href="#anc_xv_29"><span class="label">[XV_29]</span></a> Exod. xxiii. 5.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xv_30" id="footnote-xv_30"></a><a href="#anc_xv_30"><span class="label">[XV_30]</span></a> Deuteron. xx. 10.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xv_31" id="footnote-xv_31"></a><a href="#anc_xv_31"><span class="label">[XV_31]</span></a> Exod. xxiii. 12.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xv_32" id="footnote-xv_32"></a><a href="#anc_xv_32"><span class="label">[XV_32]</span></a> Genes. passim.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xv_33" id="footnote-xv_33"></a><a href="#anc_xv_33"><span class="label">[XV_33]</span></a> Xenoph.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xv_34" id="footnote-xv_34"></a><a href="#anc_xv_34"><span class="label">[XV_34]</span></a> Homer.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xv_35" id="footnote-xv_35"></a><a href="#anc_xv_35"><span class="label">[XV_35]</span></a> Leg. xii. Tabul. L. 72; Ulric. Zasii Catalog. Leg. -Antiq.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xv_36" id="footnote-xv_36"></a><a href="#anc_xv_36"><span class="label">[XV_36]</span></a> Ibid. lxxi.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xv_37" id="footnote-xv_37"></a><a href="#anc_xv_37"><span class="label">[XV_37]</span></a> Columell. i. 3.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xv_38" id="footnote-xv_38"></a><a href="#anc_xv_38"><span class="label">[XV_38]</span></a> Cic. In Brut.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xv_39" id="footnote-xv_39"></a><a href="#anc_xv_39"><span class="label">[XV_39]</span></a> Hyginius in Frontin. De Controvers. Agror. cap. De Loc. -Publicis.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xv_40" id="footnote-xv_40"></a><a href="#anc_xv_40"><span class="label">[XV_40]</span></a> Leg. i. De Abigeis. iii. Oves ss. De Abigeis.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xv_41" id="footnote-xv_41"></a><a href="#anc_xv_41"><span class="label">[XV_41]</span></a> <i>Scrofa</i>, a sow.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xv_42" id="footnote-xv_42"></a><a href="#anc_xv_42"><span class="label">[XV_42]</span></a> Varro. ii. 1.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xv_43" id="footnote-xv_43"></a><a href="#anc_xv_43"><span class="label">[XV_43]</span></a> Geoponic. passim; Cato. Varro. Plin. Columell. Pallad. -passim.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xv_44" id="footnote-xv_44"></a><a href="#anc_xv_44"><span class="label">[XV_44]</span></a> Varro.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xv_45" id="footnote-xv_45"></a><a href="#anc_xv_45"><span class="label">[XV_45]</span></a> Aul. Gell. xiii. 21.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xv_46" id="footnote-xv_46"></a><a href="#anc_xv_46"><span class="label">[XV_46]</span></a> Ovid. Fast. iii. 523.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xv_47" id="footnote-xv_47"></a><a href="#anc_xv_47"><span class="label">[XV_47]</span></a> S. Augustin. De Civitat. Dei. vi. 9.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xv_48" id="footnote-xv_48"></a><a href="#anc_xv_48"><span class="label">[XV_48]</span></a> Geoponic. xvii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xv_49" id="footnote-xv_49"></a><a href="#anc_xv_49"><span class="label">[XV_49]</span></a> Paralipom. xxiii. 15; xxxiii. 14; II. Esdras, iii. 1, -28; xii. 38; Sophon. i. 10.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xv_50" id="footnote-xv_50"></a><a href="#anc_xv_50"><span class="label">[XV_50]</span></a> Tit. Liv. xxix. 37.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xv_51" id="footnote-xv_51"></a><a href="#anc_xv_51"><span class="label">[XV_51]</span></a> Rosin. Antiquit. Rom. p. 39.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xv_52" id="footnote-xv_52"></a><a href="#anc_xv_52"><span class="label">[XV_52]</span></a> Id. Ibid. p. 38.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xv_53" id="footnote-xv_53"></a><a href="#anc_xv_53"><span class="label">[XV_53]</span></a> Ulpian. De Officio Præfect. Urbis.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xv_54" id="footnote-xv_54"></a><a href="#anc_xv_54"><span class="label">[XV_54]</span></a> Homer.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xv_55" id="footnote-xv_55"></a><a href="#anc_xv_55"><span class="label">[XV_55]</span></a> Turneb. Advers.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xv_56" id="footnote-xv_56"></a><a href="#anc_xv_56"><span class="label">[XV_56]</span></a> Gruter. p. 647, n. 6.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xv_57" id="footnote-xv_57"></a><a href="#anc_xv_57"><span class="label">[XV_57]</span></a> Encyclop. Méthod. Antiquit.; Gruter. loc. cit.; -Montfaucon, Antiq. Expliq.</p></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_423" id="page_423"></a>{423}</span></p> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xv_58" id="footnote-xv_58"></a><a href="#anc_xv_58"><span class="label">[XV_58]</span></a> Cod. Theod. L. x. De Suariis et Pecuariis.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xv_59" id="footnote-xv_59"></a><a href="#anc_xv_59"><span class="label">[XV_59]</span></a> Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xv_60" id="footnote-xv_60"></a><a href="#anc_xv_60"><span class="label">[XV_60]</span></a> Cod. Valent. De Suariis.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xv_61" id="footnote-xv_61"></a><a href="#anc_xv_61"><span class="label">[XV_61]</span></a> Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xv_62" id="footnote-xv_62"></a><a href="#anc_xv_62"><span class="label">[XV_62]</span></a> Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xv_63" id="footnote-xv_63"></a><a href="#anc_xv_63"><span class="label">[XV_63]</span></a> Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xv_64" id="footnote-xv_64"></a><a href="#anc_xv_64"><span class="label">[XV_64]</span></a> Onuphr. Panvin. Descript. Urb. Rom.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xv_65" id="footnote-xv_65"></a><a href="#anc_xv_65"><span class="label">[XV_65]</span></a> Sext. Rufin. Descript. Urb. Rom.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xv_66" id="footnote-xv_66"></a><a href="#anc_xv_66"><span class="label">[XV_66]</span></a> <i>Geoponic.</i> iii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xv_67" id="footnote-xv_67"></a><a href="#anc_xv_67"><span class="label">[XV_67]</span></a> Apicius, i. 10.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xv_68" id="footnote-xv_68"></a><a href="#anc_xv_68"><span class="label">[XV_68]</span></a> Id. i. 8.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xv_69" id="footnote-xv_69"></a><a href="#anc_xv_69"><span class="label">[XV_69]</span></a> Delamarre. liv. v. titre 23, chap. 6.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xv_70" id="footnote-xv_70"></a><a href="#anc_xv_70"><span class="label">[XV_70]</span></a> Monteil. Histoire des Français, tom. ii. p. 46.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xv_71" id="footnote-xv_71"></a><a href="#anc_xv_71"><span class="label">[XV_71]</span></a> Arrêt du Parlement, 18 Mai, 1366.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xv_72" id="footnote-xv_72"></a><a href="#anc_xv_72"><span class="label">[XV_72]</span></a> Delamarre.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xv_73" id="footnote-xv_73"></a><a href="#anc_xv_73"><span class="label">[XV_73]</span></a> Règlement du 20 Mars, 1635.</p></div> - -<p class="c">XVI.</p> - -<p class="c">ANIMALS.</p> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_1" id="footnote-xvi_1"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_1"><span class="label">[XVI_1]</span></a> Athen. iii. 7.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_2" id="footnote-xvi_2"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_2"><span class="label">[XVI_2]</span></a> Id. ix. 5; Bulenger. ii. 24.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_3" id="footnote-xvi_3"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_3"><span class="label">[XVI_3]</span></a> Herodot. ii. 47.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_4" id="footnote-xvi_4"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_4"><span class="label">[XVI_4]</span></a> Plutarch. De Isid. et Osirid; Ælian. De Animal. x. 16.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_5" id="footnote-xvi_5"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_5"><span class="label">[XVI_5]</span></a> Levitic. xi. 7, 8.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_6" id="footnote-xvi_6"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_6"><span class="label">[XVI_6]</span></a> I. Macchab. i. 65, 66; II. Macchab. vi. 18, et seqq.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_7" id="footnote-xvi_7"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_7"><span class="label">[XVI_7]</span></a> In Barakama. vi. 7. § 7; Maimonides, In Niskemamon. -cap. v.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_8" id="footnote-xvi_8"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_8"><span class="label">[XVI_8]</span></a> Kibuschim. 49.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_9" id="footnote-xvi_9"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_9"><span class="label">[XVI_9]</span></a> Hoorabeck. De Conviv. Judæis, vii. 1.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_10" id="footnote-xvi_10"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_10"><span class="label">[XVI_10]</span></a> Herodian. v.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_11" id="footnote-xvi_11"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_11"><span class="label">[XVI_11]</span></a> Ælian. xvi. 37.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_12" id="footnote-xvi_12"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_12"><span class="label">[XVI_12]</span></a> Koran, chap. vi.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_13" id="footnote-xvi_13"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_13"><span class="label">[XVI_13]</span></a> Varro. R. R. ii. 4; Clem. Alexandr. Stromat. ii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_14" id="footnote-xvi_14"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_14"><span class="label">[XVI_14]</span></a> Scholiast. Aristophan. In Acharn.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_15" id="footnote-xvi_15"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_15"><span class="label">[XVI_15]</span></a> Macrob. Saturn. i. 6; Aul. Gell. iv. 6.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_16" id="footnote-xvi_16"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_16"><span class="label">[XVI_16]</span></a> Varro. loc. cit.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_17" id="footnote-xvi_17"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_17"><span class="label">[XVI_17]</span></a> Fest. De Verb. Signific.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_18" id="footnote-xvi_18"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_18"><span class="label">[XVI_18]</span></a> Varro. loc. cit.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_19" id="footnote-xvi_19"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_19"><span class="label">[XVI_19]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_20" id="footnote-xvi_20"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_20"><span class="label">[XVI_20]</span></a> Johan. Pierius, Hieroglyph. ix.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_21" id="footnote-xvi_21"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_21"><span class="label">[XVI_21]</span></a> Plutarch. Sympos. v. 10; Cic. De Natur. Deor. ii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_22" id="footnote-xvi_22"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_22"><span class="label">[XVI_22]</span></a> Galen. De Aliment. Facult. iii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_23" id="footnote-xvi_23"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_23"><span class="label">[XVI_23]</span></a> Id. De Cib. Boni et Mali Succi.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_24" id="footnote-xvi_24"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_24"><span class="label">[XVI_24]</span></a> Id. Method. Medendi. vii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_25" id="footnote-xvi_25"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_25"><span class="label">[XVI_25]</span></a> Athen. passim.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_26" id="footnote-xvi_26"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_26"><span class="label">[XVI_26]</span></a> Id. iii. 7, 9; ix. 6, et passim.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_27" id="footnote-xvi_27"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_27"><span class="label">[XVI_27]</span></a> Id. iv. 1.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_28" id="footnote-xvi_28"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_28"><span class="label">[XVI_28]</span></a> Athen. ix. 4, 5.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_29" id="footnote-xvi_29"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_29"><span class="label">[XVI_29]</span></a> Bulenger. ii. 24.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_30" id="footnote-xvi_30"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_30"><span class="label">[XVI_30]</span></a> Petron. Satyr.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_31" id="footnote-xvi_31"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_31"><span class="label">[XVI_31]</span></a> Macrob. Sat. iii. 13.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_32" id="footnote-xvi_32"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_32"><span class="label">[XVI_32]</span></a> Athen. ix. 7.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_33" id="footnote-xvi_33"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_33"><span class="label">[XVI_33]</span></a> Varro. R. R. ii. 41.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_34" id="footnote-xvi_34"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_34"><span class="label">[XVI_34]</span></a> Plin. viii. 51.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_35" id="footnote-xvi_35"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_35"><span class="label">[XVI_35]</span></a> Petron. Satyr.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_36" id="footnote-xvi_36"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_36"><span class="label">[XVI_36]</span></a> Lamprid. In Alexand. Sever.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_37" id="footnote-xvi_37"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_37"><span class="label">[XVI_37]</span></a> Macrob. Saturn. iii. 13.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_38" id="footnote-xvi_38"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_38"><span class="label">[XVI_38]</span></a> Plin. xi. 37.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_39" id="footnote-xvi_39"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_39"><span class="label">[XVI_39]</span></a> Nonnius, ii. 3.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_40" id="footnote-xvi_40"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_40"><span class="label">[XVI_40]</span></a> Strabo. vi. 3, 7; Martial. Lemmate de Pernâ.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_41" id="footnote-xvi_41"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_41"><span class="label">[XVI_41]</span></a> Nonnius; Stuckius.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_42" id="footnote-xvi_42"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_42"><span class="label">[XVI_42]</span></a> Cato. R. R. cap. ultimo.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_43" id="footnote-xvi_43"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_43"><span class="label">[XVI_43]</span></a> Strabo, iv.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_44" id="footnote-xvi_44"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_44"><span class="label">[XVI_44]</span></a> Plutarch. Sympos. v. 10; Varro. R. R. ii. 4.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_45" id="footnote-xvi_45"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_45"><span class="label">[XVI_45]</span></a> Bruyerin. xiii. I.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_46" id="footnote-xvi_46"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_46"><span class="label">[XVI_46]</span></a> Athen. ix. 1; Petron. Satyr.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_47" id="footnote-xvi_47"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_47"><span class="label">[XVI_47]</span></a> Juvenal. Sat. xi.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_48" id="footnote-xvi_48"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_48"><span class="label">[XVI_48]</span></a> Spartian. In Adrian.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_49" id="footnote-xvi_49"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_49"><span class="label">[XVI_49]</span></a> Plin. viii. 57.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_50" id="footnote-xvi_50"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_50"><span class="label">[XVI_50]</span></a> Dio. ex Xiphil. In Vespasian. cap. x.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_51" id="footnote-xvi_51"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_51"><span class="label">[XVI_51]</span></a> Id. In Claud. v.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_52" id="footnote-xvi_52"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_52"><span class="label">[XVI_52]</span></a> Apicius, i. 9.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_53" id="footnote-xvi_53"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_53"><span class="label">[XVI_53]</span></a> Plutarch. Apophteg.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_54" id="footnote-xvi_54"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_54"><span class="label">[XVI_54]</span></a> Apicius, viii. 7.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_55" id="footnote-xvi_55"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_55"><span class="label">[XVI_55]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_56" id="footnote-xvi_56"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_56"><span class="label">[XVI_56]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_57" id="footnote-xvi_57"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_57"><span class="label">[XVI_57]</span></a> Cato. R. R. 163.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_58" id="footnote-xvi_58"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_58"><span class="label">[XVI_58]</span></a> Apicius, vii. 3.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_59" id="footnote-xvi_59"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_59"><span class="label">[XVI_59]</span></a> Id. vii. 9.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_60" id="footnote-xvi_60"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_60"><span class="label">[XVI_60]</span></a> Athen. iii. 21.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_61" id="footnote-xvi_61"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_61"><span class="label">[XVI_61]</span></a> Id. ii. 4.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_62" id="footnote-xvi_62"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_62"><span class="label">[XVI_62]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_63" id="footnote-xvi_63"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_63"><span class="label">[XVI_63]</span></a> Id. vii. 2.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_64" id="footnote-xvi_64"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_64"><span class="label">[XVI_64]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_65" id="footnote-xvi_65"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_65"><span class="label">[XVI_65]</span></a> Id. vii. 3.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_66" id="footnote-xvi_66"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_66"><span class="label">[XVI_66]</span></a> Id. Ibid.; Plin. viii. 51.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_67" id="footnote-xvi_67"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_67"><span class="label">[XVI_67]</span></a> Apicius, vii. 9.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_68" id="footnote-xvi_68"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_68"><span class="label">[XVI_68]</span></a> Id. ii. 1.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_69" id="footnote-xvi_69"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_69"><span class="label">[XVI_69]</span></a> Id. ii. 4.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_70" id="footnote-xvi_70"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_70"><span class="label">[XVI_70]</span></a> Id. ii. 1.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_71" id="footnote-xvi_71"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_71"><span class="label">[XVI_71]</span></a> Id. ii. 2.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_72" id="footnote-xvi_72"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_72"><span class="label">[XVI_72]</span></a> Fontan. Ordonnances.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_73" id="footnote-xvi_73"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_73"><span class="label">[XVI_73]</span></a> Delamarre, Traité de la Police.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_73a" id="footnote-xvi_73a"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_73a"><span class="label">[XVI_73A]</span></a> Trésor de la Santé, liv. iii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_73b" id="footnote-xvi_73b"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_73b"><span class="label">[XVI_73B]</span></a> Champier, xiii. 2.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_74" id="footnote-xvi_74"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_74"><span class="label">[XVI_74]</span></a> Clem. Alexandr. Stromat. v.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_75" id="footnote-xvi_75"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_75"><span class="label">[XVI_75]</span></a> Banier, Mythologie, tom. i. p. 354.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_76" id="footnote-xvi_76"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_76"><span class="label">[XVI_76]</span></a> Ælian. Hist. xii. 34.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_77" id="footnote-xvi_77"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_77"><span class="label">[XVI_77]</span></a> Euripid. Alcest. act v.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_78" id="footnote-xvi_78"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_78"><span class="label">[XVI_78]</span></a> Pollux, ix.</p></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_424" id="page_424"></a>{424}</span></p> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_79" id="footnote-xvi_79"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_79"><span class="label">[XVI_79]</span></a> Banier, tom. i. p. 448; Ælian. Hist. viii. 3.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_80" id="footnote-xvi_80"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_80"><span class="label">[XVI_80]</span></a> Cic. De Natur. Deor. ii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_81" id="footnote-xvi_81"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_81"><span class="label">[XVI_81]</span></a> Aristophan.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_82" id="footnote-xvi_82"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_82"><span class="label">[XVI_82]</span></a> Plutarch. Solon.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_83" id="footnote-xvi_83"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_83"><span class="label">[XVI_83]</span></a> Homer. passim.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_84" id="footnote-xvi_84"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_84"><span class="label">[XVI_84]</span></a> Genes. xii. 16; xx. 14; xxi. 27; xxiv. 35; xxxii. 5, -et passim.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_85" id="footnote-xvi_85"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_85"><span class="label">[XVI_85]</span></a> Ibid. xviii. 7, 8.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_86" id="footnote-xvi_86"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_86"><span class="label">[XVI_86]</span></a> Ibid. ix. 3.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_87" id="footnote-xvi_87"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_87"><span class="label">[XVI_87]</span></a> Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_88" id="footnote-xvi_88"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_88"><span class="label">[XVI_88]</span></a> Deuteron. xiv. 4.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_89" id="footnote-xvi_89"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_89"><span class="label">[XVI_89]</span></a> Galen. De Ration. Vict. ii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_90" id="footnote-xvi_90"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_90"><span class="label">[XVI_90]</span></a> Poseidip. apud Athen. x. 2.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_91" id="footnote-xvi_91"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_91"><span class="label">[XVI_91]</span></a> Theodor. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_92" id="footnote-xvi_92"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_92"><span class="label">[XVI_92]</span></a> Marm. Sandwic. p. 35.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_93" id="footnote-xvi_93"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_93"><span class="label">[XVI_93]</span></a> II. Reg. vi. 19; Homer. et Athen. passim.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_94" id="footnote-xvi_94"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_94"><span class="label">[XVI_94]</span></a> Nonnius.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_95" id="footnote-xvi_95"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_95"><span class="label">[XVI_95]</span></a> Homer. Iliad.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_96" id="footnote-xvi_96"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_96"><span class="label">[XVI_96]</span></a> Athen. iii. 7.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_97" id="footnote-xvi_97"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_97"><span class="label">[XVI_97]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_98" id="footnote-xvi_98"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_98"><span class="label">[XVI_98]</span></a> Id. iv. 7.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_99" id="footnote-xvi_99"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_99"><span class="label">[XVI_99]</span></a> Id. vi. 9.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_100" id="footnote-xvi_100"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_100"><span class="label">[XVI_100]</span></a> Encyclop. Méthod. Antiquités.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_101" id="footnote-xvi_101"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_101"><span class="label">[XVI_101]</span></a> Horat. ii. Sat. 5; I. Epist. 15.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_102" id="footnote-xvi_102"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_102"><span class="label">[XVI_102]</span></a> Apicius, viii. 5.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_103" id="footnote-xvi_103"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_103"><span class="label">[XVI_103]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_104" id="footnote-xvi_104"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_104"><span class="label">[XVI_104]</span></a> Apicius, viii. 5.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_105" id="footnote-xvi_105"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_105"><span class="label">[XVI_105]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_106" id="footnote-xvi_106"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_106"><span class="label">[XVI_106]</span></a> Pers. Sat. ii. 43; Apul. Metam. ii.; Fulgent. De -Vocib. Antiq.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_107" id="footnote-xvi_107"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_107"><span class="label">[XVI_107]</span></a> Valer. Maxim, viii. 1.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_108" id="footnote-xvi_108"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_108"><span class="label">[XVI_108]</span></a> Sonnini; Desmarest: Bœuf.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_109" id="footnote-xvi_109"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_109"><span class="label">[XVI_109]</span></a> Taillevant.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_110" id="footnote-xvi_110"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_110"><span class="label">[XVI_110]</span></a> Senec. Natur. Quæst. iv. 6.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_111" id="footnote-xvi_111"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_111"><span class="label">[XVI_111]</span></a> Banier, tom. i. p. 354.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_112" id="footnote-xvi_112"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_112"><span class="label">[XVI_112]</span></a> Natal. Com. Mytholog.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_113" id="footnote-xvi_113"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_113"><span class="label">[XVI_113]</span></a> Exod. xix. 38 to 42.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_114" id="footnote-xvi_114"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_114"><span class="label">[XVI_114]</span></a> Banier, tom. i. p. 447.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_115" id="footnote-xvi_115"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_115"><span class="label">[XVI_115]</span></a> Exod. xii. xxiii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_116" id="footnote-xvi_116"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_116"><span class="label">[XVI_116]</span></a> Genes. xxiii. 19.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_117" id="footnote-xvi_117"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_117"><span class="label">[XVI_117]</span></a> <span class="smcap">IV.</span> Reg. iii. 4.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_118" id="footnote-xvi_118"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_118"><span class="label">[XVI_118]</span></a> Amos, vi. 4, 7.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_119" id="footnote-xvi_119"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_119"><span class="label">[XVI_119]</span></a> Athen. i. 16.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_120" id="footnote-xvi_120"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_120"><span class="label">[XVI_120]</span></a> Id. iv.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_121" id="footnote-xvi_121"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_121"><span class="label">[XVI_121]</span></a> Id. vii. 24.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_122" id="footnote-xvi_122"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_122"><span class="label">[XVI_122]</span></a> Id. passim.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_123" id="footnote-xvi_123"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_123"><span class="label">[XVI_123]</span></a> Cels.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_124" id="footnote-xvi_124"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_124"><span class="label">[XVI_124]</span></a> Apicius, viii. 6.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_125" id="footnote-xvi_125"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_125"><span class="label">[XVI_125]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_126" id="footnote-xvi_126"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_126"><span class="label">[XVI_126]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_127" id="footnote-xvi_127"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_127"><span class="label">[XVI_127]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_128" id="footnote-xvi_128"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_128"><span class="label">[XVI_128]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_129" id="footnote-xvi_129"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_129"><span class="label">[XVI_129]</span></a> Beckwith’s edition of Blount’s Jocular Tenures, p. -281.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_130" id="footnote-xvi_130"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_130"><span class="label">[XVI_130]</span></a> Genes, xxvii. 9, 17.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_131" id="footnote-xvi_131"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_131"><span class="label">[XVI_131]</span></a> Exod. xii. 5.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_132" id="footnote-xvi_132"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_132"><span class="label">[XVI_132]</span></a> Judic. xv. 1.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_133" id="footnote-xvi_133"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_133"><span class="label">[XVI_133]</span></a> Luc. xv. 29.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_134" id="footnote-xvi_134"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_134"><span class="label">[XVI_134]</span></a> Herodot.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_135" id="footnote-xvi_135"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_135"><span class="label">[XVI_135]</span></a> Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_136" id="footnote-xvi_136"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_136"><span class="label">[XVI_136]</span></a> Athen. iii. 1; iv. 7.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_137" id="footnote-xvi_137"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_137"><span class="label">[XVI_137]</span></a> Id. ix. 3.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_138" id="footnote-xvi_138"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_138"><span class="label">[XVI_138]</span></a> Athen. i. 6; Clem. Alexandr. Pædagog. ii. 1.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_139" id="footnote-xvi_139"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_139"><span class="label">[XVI_139]</span></a> Athen. ix. 13.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_140" id="footnote-xvi_140"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_140"><span class="label">[XVI_140]</span></a> Juvenal. Sat. xi.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_141" id="footnote-xvi_141"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_141"><span class="label">[XVI_141]</span></a> Varro. R. R. ii. 3.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_142" id="footnote-xvi_142"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_142"><span class="label">[XVI_142]</span></a> Apicius, viii. 6.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_143" id="footnote-xvi_143"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_143"><span class="label">[XVI_143]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_144" id="footnote-xvi_144"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_144"><span class="label">[XVI_144]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_145" id="footnote-xvi_145"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_145"><span class="label">[XVI_145]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_146" id="footnote-xvi_146"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_146"><span class="label">[XVI_146]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_147" id="footnote-xvi_147"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_147"><span class="label">[XVI_147]</span></a> Levitic. xi. 26.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_148" id="footnote-xvi_148"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_148"><span class="label">[XVI_148]</span></a> <span class="smcap">IV.</span> Reg. vi. 25.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_149" id="footnote-xvi_149"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_149"><span class="label">[XVI_149]</span></a> Galen.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_150" id="footnote-xvi_150"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_150"><span class="label">[XVI_150]</span></a> Plin. viii. 43.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_151" id="footnote-xvi_151"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_151"><span class="label">[XVI_151]</span></a> Galen. De Aliment. Facultat. iii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_152" id="footnote-xvi_152"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_152"><span class="label">[XVI_152]</span></a> Id. De Ration. Vict. cap. 7.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_153" id="footnote-xvi_153"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_153"><span class="label">[XVI_153]</span></a> Id. De Alim. Facult. iii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_154" id="footnote-xvi_154"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_154"><span class="label">[XVI_154]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_155" id="footnote-xvi_155"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_155"><span class="label">[XVI_155]</span></a> Hippocrat. De Diœt. ii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_156" id="footnote-xvi_156"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_156"><span class="label">[XVI_156]</span></a> Fest. Pomp.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_157" id="footnote-xvi_157"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_157"><span class="label">[XVI_157]</span></a> Athen. viii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvi_158" id="footnote-xvi_158"></a><a href="#anc_xvi_158"><span class="label">[XVI_158]</span></a> Plutarch. De Fortunâ Romanorum.</p></div> - -<p class="c">XVII.</p> - -<p class="c">POULTRY.</p> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_1" id="footnote-xvii_1"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_1"><span class="label">[XVII_1]</span></a> Aristot. De Longit. et Brevit. Vitæ, cap. 4.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_2" id="footnote-xvii_2"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_2"><span class="label">[XVII_2]</span></a> Galen. De Aliment Facult. iii. 18.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_3" id="footnote-xvii_3"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_3"><span class="label">[XVII_3]</span></a> Macrob.; Dio.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_4" id="footnote-xvii_4"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_4"><span class="label">[XVII_4]</span></a> Genes. i.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_5" id="footnote-xvii_5"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_5"><span class="label">[XVII_5]</span></a> Lucian. xvi. De Syriæ Deâ.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_6" id="footnote-xvii_6"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_6"><span class="label">[XVII_6]</span></a> Oppian. Cilix. Cyneget. ii. 189.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_7" id="footnote-xvii_7"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_7"><span class="label">[XVII_7]</span></a> Aristophan. In Avibus.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_8" id="footnote-xvii_8"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_8"><span class="label">[XVII_8]</span></a> Ælian. Var. Hist. ii. 28.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_9" id="footnote-xvii_9"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_9"><span class="label">[XVII_9]</span></a> Plin. x. 21; Columell. viii. 2.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_10" id="footnote-xvii_10"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_10"><span class="label">[XVII_10]</span></a> Plin. loc. cit.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_11" id="footnote-xvii_11"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_11"><span class="label">[XVII_11]</span></a> Erasm. Chiliad. i. cent. 1; Columell. viii. c. 2.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_12" id="footnote-xvii_12"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_12"><span class="label">[XVII_12]</span></a> Plin. x. 50.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_13" id="footnote-xvii_13"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_13"><span class="label">[XVII_13]</span></a> L. Fannia. Sumptuar. In Catalog. Leg. Antiq. Ulrici. -p. 143.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_14" id="footnote-xvii_14"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_14"><span class="label">[XVII_14]</span></a> Macrob. Saturnal. iii. 17.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_15" id="footnote-xvii_15"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_15"><span class="label">[XVII_15]</span></a> Aul. Gell. ii. 24; Plin. x. 50.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_16" id="footnote-xvii_16"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_16"><span class="label">[XVII_16]</span></a> Martial. xiii. 63, 64.</p></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_425" id="page_425"></a>{425}</span></p> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_17" id="footnote-xvii_17"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_17"><span class="label">[XVII_17]</span></a> Apicius, vi. 9.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_18" id="footnote-xvii_18"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_18"><span class="label">[XVII_18]</span></a> Rosin. Antiquit. Roman. p. 207.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_19" id="footnote-xvii_19"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_19"><span class="label">[XVII_19]</span></a> Galen, De Aliment. Facult. iii.; Nonnius. ii. 22.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_20" id="footnote-xvii_20"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_20"><span class="label">[XVII_20]</span></a> Athen. ii. 12; iv. 1; ix. 4.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_21" id="footnote-xvii_21"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_21"><span class="label">[XVII_21]</span></a> Plin. x. 50.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_22" id="footnote-xvii_22"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_22"><span class="label">[XVII_22]</span></a> Varro. R. R. iii. 9.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_23" id="footnote-xvii_23"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_23"><span class="label">[XVII_23]</span></a> Columell. viii 7; Plin. x. 51.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_24" id="footnote-xvii_24"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_24"><span class="label">[XVII_24]</span></a> Plin. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_25" id="footnote-xvii_25"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_25"><span class="label">[XVII_25]</span></a> L. Fannia. loc. cit.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_26" id="footnote-xvii_26"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_26"><span class="label">[XVII_26]</span></a> Nonnius. ii. 22.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_27" id="footnote-xvii_27"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_27"><span class="label">[XVII_27]</span></a> Apicius, vi. 9.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_28" id="footnote-xvii_28"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_28"><span class="label">[XVII_28]</span></a> Cic. De Divinat.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_29" id="footnote-xvii_29"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_29"><span class="label">[XVII_29]</span></a> Val. Maxim. i. 4.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_30" id="footnote-xvii_30"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_30"><span class="label">[XVII_30]</span></a> Aristot.; Vopiscus.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_31" id="footnote-xvii_31"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_31"><span class="label">[XVII_31]</span></a> Athen. iv. 7, et passim.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_32" id="footnote-xvii_32"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_32"><span class="label">[XVII_32]</span></a> Apicius, iv. 1.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_33" id="footnote-xvii_33"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_33"><span class="label">[XVII_33]</span></a> Id. vi. 9.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_34" id="footnote-xvii_34"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_34"><span class="label">[XVII_34]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_35" id="footnote-xvii_35"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_35"><span class="label">[XVII_35]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_36" id="footnote-xvii_36"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_36"><span class="label">[XVII_36]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_37" id="footnote-xvii_37"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_37"><span class="label">[XVII_37]</span></a> Aristophan. In Avib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_38" id="footnote-xvii_38"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_38"><span class="label">[XVII_38]</span></a> Id. Acharn. iv. 1, 14.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_39" id="footnote-xvii_39"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_39"><span class="label">[XVII_39]</span></a> Athen. ii. 12; iv. 1, et passim.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_40" id="footnote-xvii_40"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_40"><span class="label">[XVII_40]</span></a> De Comp. Medic. Second. loc. v. 4.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_41" id="footnote-xvii_41"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_41"><span class="label">[XVII_41]</span></a> Plutarch. In Caton.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_42" id="footnote-xvii_42"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_42"><span class="label">[XVII_42]</span></a> Athen. ix.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_43" id="footnote-xvii_43"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_43"><span class="label">[XVII_43]</span></a> De Aliment. Facult. xiii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_44" id="footnote-xvii_44"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_44"><span class="label">[XVII_44]</span></a> Avicen. Canon Medicinæ.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_45" id="footnote-xvii_45"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_45"><span class="label">[XVII_45]</span></a> Macrob. Saturnal. iii. 13.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_46" id="footnote-xvii_46"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_46"><span class="label">[XVII_46]</span></a> Martial xiii. 52.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_47" id="footnote-xvii_47"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_47"><span class="label">[XVII_47]</span></a> Apicius, iv. 2.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_48" id="footnote-xvii_48"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_48"><span class="label">[XVII_48]</span></a> Id. iv. 6.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_49" id="footnote-xvii_49"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_49"><span class="label">[XVII_49]</span></a> Ælian. v. xii.; Gessner. iii.; Aldrovand. xix.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_50" id="footnote-xvii_50"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_50"><span class="label">[XVII_50]</span></a> Aristot. Hist. Animal. i. 1.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_51" id="footnote-xvii_51"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_51"><span class="label">[XVII_51]</span></a> In Aristotel. loc. cit.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_52" id="footnote-xvii_52"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_52"><span class="label">[XVII_52]</span></a> Homer. Odyss.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_53" id="footnote-xvii_53"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_53"><span class="label">[XVII_53]</span></a> Athen. ii. 12; iv. 1, et passim.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_54" id="footnote-xvii_54"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_54"><span class="label">[XVII_54]</span></a> Diod. Sicul. ii. 3.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_55" id="footnote-xvii_55"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_55"><span class="label">[XVII_55]</span></a> Athen. ix. 7.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_56" id="footnote-xvii_56"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_56"><span class="label">[XVII_56]</span></a> Aristoph. In Avib.; Porphyr. De Abstin. iv.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_57" id="footnote-xvii_57"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_57"><span class="label">[XVII_57]</span></a> Cæsar. De Bello Gall. v.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_58" id="footnote-xvii_58"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_58"><span class="label">[XVII_58]</span></a> Brand’s Popular Antiquities.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_59" id="footnote-xvii_59"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_59"><span class="label">[XVII_59]</span></a> Plin. x. 22.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_60" id="footnote-xvii_60"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_60"><span class="label">[XVII_60]</span></a> Polyb. ii.; Plut. In Camillo.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_61" id="footnote-xvii_61"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_61"><span class="label">[XVII_61]</span></a> Pierii Hieroglyph.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_62" id="footnote-xvii_62"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_62"><span class="label">[XVII_62]</span></a> Columell. viii. 13.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_63" id="footnote-xvii_63"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_63"><span class="label">[XVII_63]</span></a> Alex. ab Alex. Genial. Dier. iii. 12.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_64" id="footnote-xvii_64"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_64"><span class="label">[XVII_64]</span></a> Plut. De Roman. Fortunâ.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_65" id="footnote-xvii_65"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_65"><span class="label">[XVII_65]</span></a> Nonnius. ii. 3.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_66" id="footnote-xvii_66"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_66"><span class="label">[XVII_66]</span></a> Plin.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_67" id="footnote-xvii_67"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_67"><span class="label">[XVII_67]</span></a> Lamprid. In Sever.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_68" id="footnote-xvii_68"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_68"><span class="label">[XVII_68]</span></a> Pallad. i. 30; Athen. ix. 7; Plin. x. 22.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_69" id="footnote-xvii_69"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_69"><span class="label">[XVII_69]</span></a> Plin. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_70" id="footnote-xvii_70"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_70"><span class="label">[XVII_70]</span></a> Id. ix. 20.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_71" id="footnote-xvii_71"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_71"><span class="label">[XVII_71]</span></a> Id. Horat. Sat.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_72" id="footnote-xvii_72"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_72"><span class="label">[XVII_72]</span></a> Plin. viii. 51.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_73" id="footnote-xvii_73"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_73"><span class="label">[XVII_73]</span></a> Martial, xiii. 58.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_74" id="footnote-xvii_74"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_74"><span class="label">[XVII_74]</span></a> Plin. x. 22; Galen. De Aliment. Facult. iii. 20; -Æginet. ii. 82.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_75" id="footnote-xvii_75"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_75"><span class="label">[XVII_75]</span></a> Athen. ix. 7.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_76" id="footnote-xvii_76"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_76"><span class="label">[XVII_76]</span></a> Pallad. i. 30.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_77" id="footnote-xvii_77"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_77"><span class="label">[XVII_77]</span></a> Apicius, vi. 8.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_78" id="footnote-xvii_78"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_78"><span class="label">[XVII_78]</span></a> Id. vi. 5.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_79" id="footnote-xvii_79"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_79"><span class="label">[XVII_79]</span></a> Id. vi. 9.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_80" id="footnote-xvii_80"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_80"><span class="label">[XVII_80]</span></a> Brand’s Popular Antiquities.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_81" id="footnote-xvii_81"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_81"><span class="label">[XVII_81]</span></a> Strab. vii</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_82" id="footnote-xvii_82"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_82"><span class="label">[XVII_82]</span></a> Homer. Odyss.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_83" id="footnote-xvii_83"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_83"><span class="label">[XVII_83]</span></a> Hesychius.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_84" id="footnote-xvii_84"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_84"><span class="label">[XVII_84]</span></a> Selden, De Diis Syris. ii. 3; Tibull. i. 8, 18.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_85" id="footnote-xvii_85"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_85"><span class="label">[XVII_85]</span></a> Bibl. Sacr. passim.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_86" id="footnote-xvii_86"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_86"><span class="label">[XVII_86]</span></a> Cantic. passim.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_87" id="footnote-xvii_87"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_87"><span class="label">[XVII_87]</span></a> Levitic. i. 14, 17.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_88" id="footnote-xvii_88"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_88"><span class="label">[XVII_88]</span></a> S. Chrysost. Homil. de Patientiâ Job.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_89" id="footnote-xvii_89"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_89"><span class="label">[XVII_89]</span></a> Homer.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_90" id="footnote-xvii_90"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_90"><span class="label">[XVII_90]</span></a> Athen. ii 12; iv. 1, 5; ix. 11, et pass.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_91" id="footnote-xvii_91"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_91"><span class="label">[XVII_91]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_92" id="footnote-xvii_92"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_92"><span class="label">[XVII_92]</span></a> Quintilius, In Geoponic. ap. Gessner de Avibus, iii</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_93" id="footnote-xvii_93"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_93"><span class="label">[XVII_93]</span></a> Plin. x. 37.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_94" id="footnote-xvii_94"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_94"><span class="label">[XVII_94]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_95" id="footnote-xvii_95"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_95"><span class="label">[XVII_95]</span></a> Varro. R. R. iii 7.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_96" id="footnote-xvii_96"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_96"><span class="label">[XVII_96]</span></a> Hippocrat. De Inter. Affect.; Galen. De Rat. Vict.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_97" id="footnote-xvii_97"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_97"><span class="label">[XVII_97]</span></a> Apicius, vi. 9.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_98" id="footnote-xvii_98"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_98"><span class="label">[XVII_98]</span></a> Varro. R. R. iii. 9.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_99" id="footnote-xvii_99"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_99"><span class="label">[XVII_99]</span></a> Martial. sub Lemmat Numidicæ.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_100" id="footnote-xvii_100"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_100"><span class="label">[XVII_100]</span></a> Plin. xix. 4.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_101" id="footnote-xvii_101"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_101"><span class="label">[XVII_101]</span></a> Apicius, vi. 9.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_102" id="footnote-xvii_102"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_102"><span class="label">[XVII_102]</span></a> Athen. i. 10.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_103" id="footnote-xvii_103"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_103"><span class="label">[XVII_103]</span></a> Sophocl. ap. Plin. xxxvii. 2.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_104" id="footnote-xvii_104"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_104"><span class="label">[XVII_104]</span></a> Aristot. Hist. Animal. vi. 2.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_105" id="footnote-xvii_105"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_105"><span class="label">[XVII_105]</span></a> Apud Athen. xiv. 9.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_106" id="footnote-xvii_106"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_106"><span class="label">[XVII_106]</span></a> Ibid. ix. 8.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_107" id="footnote-xvii_107"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_107"><span class="label">[XVII_107]</span></a> Varro. R. R.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_108" id="footnote-xvii_108"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_108"><span class="label">[XVII_108]</span></a> Sueton. In Caligul. 22.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_109" id="footnote-xvii_109"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_109"><span class="label">[XVII_109]</span></a> Hesych. Lexic. Suidas. In Verb. Meleagrides.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_110" id="footnote-xvii_110"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_110"><span class="label">[XVII_110]</span></a> Volteran. De Urbe.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_111" id="footnote-xvii_111"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_111"><span class="label">[XVII_111]</span></a> Beckmann; Diction. des Découvertes.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_112" id="footnote-xvii_112"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_112"><span class="label">[XVII_112]</span></a> Hurtaut, Dict. Historiq. de la Ville de Paris, tom. -iv. p. 417.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_113" id="footnote-xvii_113"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_113"><span class="label">[XVII_113]</span></a> Apicius, vi. 9.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_114" id="footnote-xvii_114"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_114"><span class="label">[XVII_114]</span></a> Hurtaut. loc. cit.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_115" id="footnote-xvii_115"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_115"><span class="label">[XVII_115]</span></a> Aldrovand. xiii. 1; Nonnius. ii. 24.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_116" id="footnote-xvii_116"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_116"><span class="label">[XVII_116]</span></a> Ælian. xiii. 18.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_117" id="footnote-xvii_117"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_117"><span class="label">[XVII_117]</span></a> Diodor. Sicul.</p></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_426" id="page_426"></a>{426}</span></p> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_118" id="footnote-xvii_118"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_118"><span class="label">[XVII_118]</span></a> Ælian. xi. 33.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_119" id="footnote-xvii_119"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_119"><span class="label">[XVII_119]</span></a> Varro. R. R. iii. 6; Athen. xiv. 9, 25.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_120" id="footnote-xvii_120"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_120"><span class="label">[XVII_120]</span></a> Aul. Gell. vii. 16.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_121" id="footnote-xvii_121"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_121"><span class="label">[XVII_121]</span></a> Ælian. v. 21; Aldrovand. xiii. 1.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_122" id="footnote-xvii_122"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_122"><span class="label">[XVII_122]</span></a> Athen. xiv. 25.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_123" id="footnote-xvii_123"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_123"><span class="label">[XVII_123]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_124" id="footnote-xvii_124"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_124"><span class="label">[XVII_124]</span></a> Macrob. Saturn. iii. 13.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_125" id="footnote-xvii_125"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_125"><span class="label">[XVII_125]</span></a> Juvenal.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_126" id="footnote-xvii_126"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_126"><span class="label">[XVII_126]</span></a> Varro. R. R. iii. 6; Ælian. v. 21; Plin. x. 20.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_127" id="footnote-xvii_127"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_127"><span class="label">[XVII_127]</span></a> Horat. lib. ii. Sat ii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_128" id="footnote-xvii_128"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_128"><span class="label">[XVII_128]</span></a> Varro. R. R.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_129" id="footnote-xvii_129"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_129"><span class="label">[XVII_129]</span></a> Alexand. ab Alexandr. Genial. Dier. ii. 13.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_130" id="footnote-xvii_130"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_130"><span class="label">[XVII_130]</span></a> Galen. De Aliment. Facult. iii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_131" id="footnote-xvii_131"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_131"><span class="label">[XVII_131]</span></a> S. Augustin. De Civit. Dei, xxii. 4.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xvii_132" id="footnote-xvii_132"></a><a href="#anc_xvii_132"><span class="label">[XVII_132]</span></a> Apicius, vi. 5.</p></div> - -<p class="c">XVIII.</p> - -<p class="c">MILK, BUTTER, CHEESE, AND EGGS.</p> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_1" id="footnote-xviii_1"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_1"><span class="label">[XVIII_1]</span></a> Genes. xviii. 8.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_2" id="footnote-xviii_2"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_2"><span class="label">[XVIII_2]</span></a> Exod. iii. 8; Levitic. xx. 24; Numer. xiii. 28; et -passim.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_3" id="footnote-xviii_3"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_3"><span class="label">[XVIII_3]</span></a> Proverb. xxvii. 27.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_4" id="footnote-xviii_4"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_4"><span class="label">[XVIII_4]</span></a> Ovid. Metam. i. 3; Fast. iv.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_5" id="footnote-xviii_5"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_5"><span class="label">[XVIII_5]</span></a> Homer.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_6" id="footnote-xviii_6"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_6"><span class="label">[XVIII_6]</span></a> Herodot. iv.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_7" id="footnote-xviii_7"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_7"><span class="label">[XVIII_7]</span></a> Strabo.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_8" id="footnote-xviii_8"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_8"><span class="label">[XVIII_8]</span></a> Cæsar; Tacit.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_9" id="footnote-xviii_9"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_9"><span class="label">[XVIII_9]</span></a> Longus. iii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_10" id="footnote-xviii_10"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_10"><span class="label">[XVIII_10]</span></a> Rosin. Antiq. Roman. p. 237.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_11" id="footnote-xviii_11"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_11"><span class="label">[XVIII_11]</span></a> Varro. R. R. ii. 11.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_12" id="footnote-xviii_12"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_12"><span class="label">[XVIII_12]</span></a> Hippocrat. Aphorism. v. 64.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_13" id="footnote-xviii_13"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_13"><span class="label">[XVIII_13]</span></a> Galen. De Ration. Vict.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_14" id="footnote-xviii_14"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_14"><span class="label">[XVIII_14]</span></a> Nonnius, ii. 15.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_15" id="footnote-xviii_15"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_15"><span class="label">[XVIII_15]</span></a> Sueton. In Othon. xii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_16" id="footnote-xviii_16"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_16"><span class="label">[XVIII_16]</span></a> Martial. x. 68.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_17" id="footnote-xviii_17"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_17"><span class="label">[XVIII_17]</span></a> Juvenal. Sat. vi.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_18" id="footnote-xviii_18"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_18"><span class="label">[XVIII_18]</span></a> Plin. xxviii. 12: xxxiii. 11.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_19" id="footnote-xviii_19"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_19"><span class="label">[XVIII_19]</span></a> Nonnius, ii. 15.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_20" id="footnote-xviii_20"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_20"><span class="label">[XVIII_20]</span></a> Apicius, iv. 2.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_21" id="footnote-xviii_21"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_21"><span class="label">[XVIII_21]</span></a> Beckmann.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_22" id="footnote-xviii_22"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_22"><span class="label">[XVIII_22]</span></a> Rabbi Salom.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_23" id="footnote-xviii_23"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_23"><span class="label">[XVIII_23]</span></a> Job, xxix. 6.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_24" id="footnote-xviii_24"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_24"><span class="label">[XVIII_24]</span></a> Aristot. Hist. Animal. iii. 20.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_25" id="footnote-xviii_25"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_25"><span class="label">[XVIII_25]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_26" id="footnote-xviii_26"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_26"><span class="label">[XVIII_26]</span></a> Hippocrat. De Morbis, iv.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_27" id="footnote-xviii_27"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_27"><span class="label">[XVIII_27]</span></a> Hecat. Abderan. apud Athen. x. 14.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_28" id="footnote-xviii_28"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_28"><span class="label">[XVIII_28]</span></a> Galen. De Aliment; Id. Simpl. Medicam. x.; Plin. -xxviii. 9.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_29" id="footnote-xviii_29"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_29"><span class="label">[XVIII_29]</span></a> Plin. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_30" id="footnote-xviii_30"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_30"><span class="label">[XVIII_30]</span></a> Id. xi. 41.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_31" id="footnote-xviii_31"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_31"><span class="label">[XVIII_31]</span></a> Galen. De Aliment. Facult.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_32" id="footnote-xviii_32"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_32"><span class="label">[XVIII_32]</span></a> Dioscorid. ii. 81.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_33" id="footnote-xviii_33"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_33"><span class="label">[XVIII_33]</span></a> Herodot. iv. 2.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_34" id="footnote-xviii_34"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_34"><span class="label">[XVIII_34]</span></a> Plin. xxviii. 9.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_35" id="footnote-xviii_35"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_35"><span class="label">[XVIII_35]</span></a> Règlement du 20 Mars, 1635.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_36" id="footnote-xviii_36"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_36"><span class="label">[XVIII_36]</span></a> Antiquitat. Ecclesiast.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_37" id="footnote-xviii_37"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_37"><span class="label">[XVIII_37]</span></a> Dictionnaire de la France.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_38" id="footnote-xviii_38"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_38"><span class="label">[XVIII_38]</span></a> Parmentier: Beurre.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_39" id="footnote-xviii_39"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_39"><span class="label">[XVIII_39]</span></a> Justin. xiii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_40" id="footnote-xviii_40"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_40"><span class="label">[XVIII_40]</span></a> Apollodor. ii.; Pausan. viii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_41" id="footnote-xviii_41"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_41"><span class="label">[XVIII_41]</span></a> Homer. Iliad.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_42" id="footnote-xviii_42"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_42"><span class="label">[XVIII_42]</span></a> <span class="smcap">I.</span> Reg. xvii. 18; Judith, x. 5; Job, x. 10.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_43" id="footnote-xviii_43"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_43"><span class="label">[XVIII_43]</span></a> Aristot. Hist. Animal. iii. 20.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_44" id="footnote-xviii_44"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_44"><span class="label">[XVIII_44]</span></a> Hippocrat. De Morbis. iv.; Aristot. loc. cit.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_45" id="footnote-xviii_45"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_45"><span class="label">[XVIII_45]</span></a> Plin. xi. 41; xxviii. 9.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_46" id="footnote-xviii_46"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_46"><span class="label">[XVIII_46]</span></a> Ulpian. in L. viii. sicut. § Aristo.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_47" id="footnote-xviii_47"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_47"><span class="label">[XVIII_47]</span></a> Onuphr. Panvini.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_48" id="footnote-xviii_48"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_48"><span class="label">[XVIII_48]</span></a> Athen. i. 30; Plin. xi. 42.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_49" id="footnote-xviii_49"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_49"><span class="label">[XVIII_49]</span></a> Plin. xi. 41.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_50" id="footnote-xviii_50"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_50"><span class="label">[XVIII_50]</span></a> Stuckius, Antiq. Convival. i. 21.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_51" id="footnote-xviii_51"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_51"><span class="label">[XVIII_51]</span></a> Pausan. vi.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_52" id="footnote-xviii_52"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_52"><span class="label">[XVIII_52]</span></a> Varro. De Ling. Lat iv. 22.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_53" id="footnote-xviii_53"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_53"><span class="label">[XVIII_53]</span></a> Cic. Epist. xiv. 16; Famil. xi. 16, 17, 20.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_54" id="footnote-xviii_54"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_54"><span class="label">[XVIII_54]</span></a> Athen.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_55" id="footnote-xviii_55"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_55"><span class="label">[XVIII_55]</span></a> Strabo. xii</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_56" id="footnote-xviii_56"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_56"><span class="label">[XVIII_56]</span></a> Sueton. In August. 76.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_57" id="footnote-xviii_57"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_57"><span class="label">[XVIII_57]</span></a> Grégoire, Essai Historiq. sur l’Agricult.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_58" id="footnote-xviii_58"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_58"><span class="label">[XVIII_58]</span></a> Ovid. Fast. iv. 371.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_59" id="footnote-xviii_59"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_59"><span class="label">[XVIII_59]</span></a> Columell. vii. 8.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_60" id="footnote-xviii_60"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_60"><span class="label">[XVIII_60]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_61" id="footnote-xviii_61"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_61"><span class="label">[XVIII_61]</span></a> Apicius, iv. 1.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_62" id="footnote-xviii_62"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_62"><span class="label">[XVIII_62]</span></a> Id. i. 33.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_63" id="footnote-xviii_63"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_63"><span class="label">[XVIII_63]</span></a> Parmentier: Fromage.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_64" id="footnote-xviii_64"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_64"><span class="label">[XVIII_64]</span></a> Plutarch. Sympos.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_65" id="footnote-xviii_65"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_65"><span class="label">[XVIII_65]</span></a> Alexand. Ab Alexandr.; Villichius, De Arte Magiricâ, -10.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_66" id="footnote-xviii_66"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_66"><span class="label">[XVIII_66]</span></a> Lucian. De Deâ Syr.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_67" id="footnote-xviii_67"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_67"><span class="label">[XVIII_67]</span></a> Tit Liv. xli.; Varro. R. R. i. 2.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_68" id="footnote-xviii_68"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_68"><span class="label">[XVIII_68]</span></a> Suidas; Juvenal.; Macrob. vii. 16.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_69" id="footnote-xviii_69"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_69"><span class="label">[XVIII_69]</span></a> Plin. x. 55.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_70" id="footnote-xviii_70"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_70"><span class="label">[XVIII_70]</span></a> Cic. De Divinat.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_71" id="footnote-xviii_71"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_71"><span class="label">[XVIII_71]</span></a> Plutarch. Sympos.; Macrob. Saturnal. vii. 16.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_72" id="footnote-xviii_72"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_72"><span class="label">[XVIII_72]</span></a> Suidas; Cœl. Rhodig.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_73" id="footnote-xviii_73"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_73"><span class="label">[XVIII_73]</span></a> Triph. apud Athen. ii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_74" id="footnote-xviii_74"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_74"><span class="label">[XVIII_74]</span></a> Horat. Sat i. 3.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_75" id="footnote-xviii_75"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_75"><span class="label">[XVIII_75]</span></a> Id. Sat. ii. 4.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_76" id="footnote-xviii_76"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_76"><span class="label">[XVIII_76]</span></a> Galen. De Aliment. Facult.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_77" id="footnote-xviii_77"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_77"><span class="label">[XVIII_77]</span></a> Macrob. Sat. iii. 13.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_78" id="footnote-xviii_78"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_78"><span class="label">[XVIII_78]</span></a> Plin. x. 53.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_79" id="footnote-xviii_79"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_79"><span class="label">[XVIII_79]</span></a> Apud Athen. ii. 16.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_80" id="footnote-xviii_80"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_80"><span class="label">[XVIII_80]</span></a> Plin. x. 20.</p></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_427" id="page_427"></a>{427}</span></p> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_81" id="footnote-xviii_81"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_81"><span class="label">[XVIII_81]</span></a> Galen. De Dynamidiis; Plin. xxix. 3.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_82" id="footnote-xviii_82"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_82"><span class="label">[XVIII_82]</span></a> Apicius, vii 17.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_83" id="footnote-xviii_83"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_83"><span class="label">[XVIII_83]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_84" id="footnote-xviii_84"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_84"><span class="label">[XVIII_84]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_85" id="footnote-xviii_85"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_85"><span class="label">[XVIII_85]</span></a> Id. ii. 3.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_86" id="footnote-xviii_86"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_86"><span class="label">[XVIII_86]</span></a> Id. iv. 1.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_87" id="footnote-xviii_87"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_87"><span class="label">[XVIII_87]</span></a> Id. iv. 2.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_88" id="footnote-xviii_88"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_88"><span class="label">[XVIII_88]</span></a> Court de Gebelin, Monde Primitif, tom. xiv. p. 251.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_89" id="footnote-xviii_89"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_89"><span class="label">[XVIII_89]</span></a> Brand’s Popular Antiquities, vol. i. p. 147.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xviii_90" id="footnote-xviii_90"></a><a href="#anc_xviii_90"><span class="label">[XVIII_90]</span></a> Diction. des Origines.</p></div> - -<p class="c">XIX.</p> - -<p class="c">HUNTING.</p> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_1" id="footnote-xix_1"></a><a href="#anc_xix_1"><span class="label">[XIX_1]</span></a> Genes, x. 9.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_2" id="footnote-xix_2"></a><a href="#anc_xix_2"><span class="label">[XIX_2]</span></a> Ibid. xxi. 20.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_3" id="footnote-xix_3"></a><a href="#anc_xix_3"><span class="label">[XIX_3]</span></a> <span class="smcap">I.</span> Reg. xvii. 34, et seqq.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_4" id="footnote-xix_4"></a><a href="#anc_xix_4"><span class="label">[XIX_4]</span></a> Ovid. lib, ix. Fab. 3.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_5" id="footnote-xix_5"></a><a href="#anc_xix_5"><span class="label">[XIX_5]</span></a> Artemidor. ii Oneirocrit 35.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_6" id="footnote-xix_6"></a><a href="#anc_xix_6"><span class="label">[XIX_6]</span></a> Xenophon.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_7" id="footnote-xix_7"></a><a href="#anc_xix_7"><span class="label">[XIX_7]</span></a> Natalis Comes. Mythol.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_8" id="footnote-xix_8"></a><a href="#anc_xix_8"><span class="label">[XIX_8]</span></a> Homer.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_9" id="footnote-xix_9"></a><a href="#anc_xix_9"><span class="label">[XIX_9]</span></a> Aristot. De Republ. cap. 4.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_10" id="footnote-xix_10"></a><a href="#anc_xix_10"><span class="label">[XIX_10]</span></a> Plato. De Legibus, Dialog. viii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_11" id="footnote-xix_11"></a><a href="#anc_xix_11"><span class="label">[XIX_11]</span></a> Horat. Epist. i. 18.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_12" id="footnote-xix_12"></a><a href="#anc_xix_12"><span class="label">[XIX_12]</span></a> Jul. Poll.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_13" id="footnote-xix_13"></a><a href="#anc_xix_13"><span class="label">[XIX_13]</span></a> Homer. Iliad. v.; Odyss. iv.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_14" id="footnote-xix_14"></a><a href="#anc_xix_14"><span class="label">[XIX_14]</span></a> Plut. In Pelopid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_15" id="footnote-xix_15"></a><a href="#anc_xix_15"><span class="label">[XIX_15]</span></a> Id. In Alexandr.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_16" id="footnote-xix_16"></a><a href="#anc_xix_16"><span class="label">[XIX_16]</span></a> Id. In Philopœm.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_17" id="footnote-xix_17"></a><a href="#anc_xix_17"><span class="label">[XIX_17]</span></a> Xenoph. De Venatione, passim.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_18" id="footnote-xix_18"></a><a href="#anc_xix_18"><span class="label">[XIX_18]</span></a> Symmach. Epist. v. 66.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_19" id="footnote-xix_19"></a><a href="#anc_xix_19"><span class="label">[XIX_19]</span></a> Xenoph. loc. cit.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_20" id="footnote-xix_20"></a><a href="#anc_xix_20"><span class="label">[XIX_20]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_21" id="footnote-xix_21"></a><a href="#anc_xix_21"><span class="label">[XIX_21]</span></a> Claudian, De Laud. Stilich. iii.; Symmach. Epist. ii. -17.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_22" id="footnote-xix_22"></a><a href="#anc_xix_22"><span class="label">[XIX_22]</span></a> Montfaucon, Antiq. Expl.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_23" id="footnote-xix_23"></a><a href="#anc_xix_23"><span class="label">[XIX_23]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_24" id="footnote-xix_24"></a><a href="#anc_xix_24"><span class="label">[XIX_24]</span></a> Apul. Milesiar. viii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_25" id="footnote-xix_25"></a><a href="#anc_xix_25"><span class="label">[XIX_25]</span></a> Prob. Grammatic. ad lib. iii. Georgic.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_26" id="footnote-xix_26"></a><a href="#anc_xix_26"><span class="label">[XIX_26]</span></a> Sidon. Apollinar. Carm. vii. 198; Ovid. Metam. viii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_27" id="footnote-xix_27"></a><a href="#anc_xix_27"><span class="label">[XIX_27]</span></a> Strab. Geograph.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_28" id="footnote-xix_28"></a><a href="#anc_xix_28"><span class="label">[XIX_28]</span></a> Lucret.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_29" id="footnote-xix_29"></a><a href="#anc_xix_29"><span class="label">[XIX_29]</span></a> Martial.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_30" id="footnote-xix_30"></a><a href="#anc_xix_30"><span class="label">[XIX_30]</span></a> Pollux, Onomast. v. 4.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_31" id="footnote-xix_31"></a><a href="#anc_xix_31"><span class="label">[XIX_31]</span></a> Jul. Firmic. Maternus.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_32" id="footnote-xix_32"></a><a href="#anc_xix_32"><span class="label">[XIX_32]</span></a> Dio Chrysost.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_33" id="footnote-xix_33"></a><a href="#anc_xix_33"><span class="label">[XIX_33]</span></a> Varro. R. R. ii. 3; Plin. viii. 52.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_34" id="footnote-xix_34"></a><a href="#anc_xix_34"><span class="label">[XIX_34]</span></a> Instit. Justinian. De Rer. Division. L. i. De Acquir. -Doman. § 11.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_35" id="footnote-xix_35"></a><a href="#anc_xix_35"><span class="label">[XIX_35]</span></a> L. iii. Quod enim. De Acquir. &c.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_36" id="footnote-xix_36"></a><a href="#anc_xix_36"><span class="label">[XIX_36]</span></a> Genes, xxvii. 3, 4.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_37" id="footnote-xix_37"></a><a href="#anc_xix_37"><span class="label">[XIX_37]</span></a> <span class="smcap">III.</span> Reg. iv. 23.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_38" id="footnote-xix_38"></a><a href="#anc_xix_38"><span class="label">[XIX_38]</span></a> Xenoph. Exped. Cyri, i.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_39" id="footnote-xix_39"></a><a href="#anc_xix_39"><span class="label">[XIX_39]</span></a> Id. De Republ. Lacedæm.; Herodot. Hist vii.; Athen. -iv. passim; Petron. Sat.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_40" id="footnote-xix_40"></a><a href="#anc_xix_40"><span class="label">[XIX_40]</span></a> Asserius, Vita Ælfredi.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_41" id="footnote-xix_41"></a><a href="#anc_xix_41"><span class="label">[XIX_41]</span></a> W. Malmsbur. Hist. Reg. Anglor. ii. 6.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_42" id="footnote-xix_42"></a><a href="#anc_xix_42"><span class="label">[XIX_42]</span></a> Id. Ibid. cap. 8.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_43" id="footnote-xix_43"></a><a href="#anc_xix_43"><span class="label">[XIX_43]</span></a> Id. Ibid. cap. 13.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_44" id="footnote-xix_44"></a><a href="#anc_xix_44"><span class="label">[XIX_44]</span></a> Ducarrel’s Anglo-Norman Antiquities.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_45" id="footnote-xix_45"></a><a href="#anc_xix_45"><span class="label">[XIX_45]</span></a> Johan. Sarisburiensis, De Nugis Curialium, i. 4.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_46" id="footnote-xix_46"></a><a href="#anc_xix_46"><span class="label">[XIX_46]</span></a> Strutt’s Sports and Pastimes, edit. 1801, p. 6.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_47" id="footnote-xix_47"></a><a href="#anc_xix_47"><span class="label">[XIX_47]</span></a> Aristot. Hist. Animal. ix. 6.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_48" id="footnote-xix_48"></a><a href="#anc_xix_48"><span class="label">[XIX_48]</span></a> Plin. viii. 32.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_49" id="footnote-xix_49"></a><a href="#anc_xix_49"><span class="label">[XIX_49]</span></a> Galen. De Rat. Vict.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_50" id="footnote-xix_50"></a><a href="#anc_xix_50"><span class="label">[XIX_50]</span></a> Deuteron. xii. 15, 22.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_51" id="footnote-xix_51"></a><a href="#anc_xix_51"><span class="label">[XIX_51]</span></a> <span class="smcap">III.</span> Reg. iv. 23.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_52" id="footnote-xix_52"></a><a href="#anc_xix_52"><span class="label">[XIX_52]</span></a> Stuckius.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_53" id="footnote-xix_53"></a><a href="#anc_xix_53"><span class="label">[XIX_53]</span></a> Nonnius, ii. 10.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_54" id="footnote-xix_54"></a><a href="#anc_xix_54"><span class="label">[XIX_54]</span></a> Apicius, viii. 2.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_55" id="footnote-xix_55"></a><a href="#anc_xix_55"><span class="label">[XIX_55]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_56" id="footnote-xix_56"></a><a href="#anc_xix_56"><span class="label">[XIX_56]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_57" id="footnote-xix_57"></a><a href="#anc_xix_57"><span class="label">[XIX_57]</span></a> Galen. loc. cit.; De Alim. Facult.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_58" id="footnote-xix_58"></a><a href="#anc_xix_58"><span class="label">[XIX_58]</span></a> Athen. i. 4.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_59" id="footnote-xix_59"></a><a href="#anc_xix_59"><span class="label">[XIX_59]</span></a> Xenoph. Exped. Cyri. i.; Athen. ii; Plin. viii. 53.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_60" id="footnote-xix_60"></a><a href="#anc_xix_60"><span class="label">[XIX_60]</span></a> Apicius viii. 2.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_61" id="footnote-xix_61"></a><a href="#anc_xix_61"><span class="label">[XIX_61]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_62" id="footnote-xix_62"></a><a href="#anc_xix_62"><span class="label">[XIX_62]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_63" id="footnote-xix_63"></a><a href="#anc_xix_63"><span class="label">[XIX_63]</span></a> Plin. loc. cit.; Nonnius, ii. 10.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_64" id="footnote-xix_64"></a><a href="#anc_xix_64"><span class="label">[XIX_64]</span></a> Apicius, loc. cit.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_65" id="footnote-xix_65"></a><a href="#anc_xix_65"><span class="label">[XIX_65]</span></a> Athen. xii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_66" id="footnote-xix_66"></a><a href="#anc_xix_66"><span class="label">[XIX_66]</span></a> Petron. Sat.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_67" id="footnote-xix_67"></a><a href="#anc_xix_67"><span class="label">[XIX_67]</span></a> Virgil. Æneid. ii. 1.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_68" id="footnote-xix_68"></a><a href="#anc_xix_68"><span class="label">[XIX_68]</span></a> Macrob. Saturnal. iii 13.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_69" id="footnote-xix_69"></a><a href="#anc_xix_69"><span class="label">[XIX_69]</span></a> Plin, viii. 51.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_70" id="footnote-xix_70"></a><a href="#anc_xix_70"><span class="label">[XIX_70]</span></a> Athen. iv. 1.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_71" id="footnote-xix_71"></a><a href="#anc_xix_71"><span class="label">[XIX_71]</span></a> Hippocrat. De Diœt. ii.; Plin. viii. 51, 52.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_72" id="footnote-xix_72"></a><a href="#anc_xix_72"><span class="label">[XIX_72]</span></a> Juvenal. Sat. i. 141.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_73" id="footnote-xix_73"></a><a href="#anc_xix_73"><span class="label">[XIX_73]</span></a> Plin. viii. 51; Mercurial. ii. 23.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_74" id="footnote-xix_74"></a><a href="#anc_xix_74"><span class="label">[XIX_74]</span></a> Caton. Censor. Orat.; Plin. loc. cit.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_75" id="footnote-xix_75"></a><a href="#anc_xix_75"><span class="label">[XIX_75]</span></a> Eubul. apud Athen. vii. 24.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_76" id="footnote-xix_76"></a><a href="#anc_xix_76"><span class="label">[XIX_76]</span></a> Varro. R. R. iii. 13.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_77" id="footnote-xix_77"></a><a href="#anc_xix_77"><span class="label">[XIX_77]</span></a> Senec. Epist. 90.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_78" id="footnote-xix_78"></a><a href="#anc_xix_78"><span class="label">[XIX_78]</span></a> Varro. loc. cit.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_79" id="footnote-xix_79"></a><a href="#anc_xix_79"><span class="label">[XIX_79]</span></a> Senec. De Providentiâ. cap. 4.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_80" id="footnote-xix_80"></a><a href="#anc_xix_80"><span class="label">[XIX_80]</span></a> Apicius, viii. 1.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_81" id="footnote-xix_81"></a><a href="#anc_xix_81"><span class="label">[XIX_81]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_82" id="footnote-xix_82"></a><a href="#anc_xix_82"><span class="label">[XIX_82]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_83" id="footnote-xix_83"></a><a href="#anc_xix_83"><span class="label">[XIX_83]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_84" id="footnote-xix_84"></a><a href="#anc_xix_84"><span class="label">[XIX_84]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_428" id="page_428"></a>{428}</span></p> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_85" id="footnote-xix_85"></a><a href="#anc_xix_85"><span class="label">[XIX_85]</span></a> Apicius, viii. 1.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_86" id="footnote-xix_86"></a><a href="#anc_xix_86"><span class="label">[XIX_86]</span></a> Plutarch. Sympos. iv. 5.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_87" id="footnote-xix_87"></a><a href="#anc_xix_87"><span class="label">[XIX_87]</span></a> Joseph, contra Apion.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_88" id="footnote-xix_88"></a><a href="#anc_xix_88"><span class="label">[XIX_88]</span></a> Levitic. xi. 6.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_89" id="footnote-xix_89"></a><a href="#anc_xix_89"><span class="label">[XIX_89]</span></a> Cæsar, De Bell. Gall. v.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_90" id="footnote-xix_90"></a><a href="#anc_xix_90"><span class="label">[XIX_90]</span></a> Xenoph. Exped. Cyri.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_91" id="footnote-xix_91"></a><a href="#anc_xix_91"><span class="label">[XIX_91]</span></a> Herodot. vii.; Athen. iii. 1.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_92" id="footnote-xix_92"></a><a href="#anc_xix_92"><span class="label">[XIX_92]</span></a> Apud. Athen. ix. 12.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_93" id="footnote-xix_93"></a><a href="#anc_xix_93"><span class="label">[XIX_93]</span></a> Archestrat. ap. Athen. ix.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_94" id="footnote-xix_94"></a><a href="#anc_xix_94"><span class="label">[XIX_94]</span></a> Athen. xiv.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_95" id="footnote-xix_95"></a><a href="#anc_xix_95"><span class="label">[XIX_95]</span></a> Stuckius. ii. 8.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_96" id="footnote-xix_96"></a><a href="#anc_xix_96"><span class="label">[XIX_96]</span></a> Hippocrat. De Diœt. ii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_97" id="footnote-xix_97"></a><a href="#anc_xix_97"><span class="label">[XIX_97]</span></a> Galen. De Aliment. Facult. et passim.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_98" id="footnote-xix_98"></a><a href="#anc_xix_98"><span class="label">[XIX_98]</span></a> Lamprid. In Sever.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_99" id="footnote-xix_99"></a><a href="#anc_xix_99"><span class="label">[XIX_99]</span></a> Martial, ad Gelliam.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_100" id="footnote-xix_100"></a><a href="#anc_xix_100"><span class="label">[XIX_100]</span></a> Horat. Sat. lib. ii. 4.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_101" id="footnote-xix_101"></a><a href="#anc_xix_101"><span class="label">[XIX_101]</span></a> Proverb, xxx. 26.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_102" id="footnote-xix_102"></a><a href="#anc_xix_102"><span class="label">[XIX_102]</span></a> Martial. xiii. 60; Varro. R. R. iii. 12.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_103" id="footnote-xix_103"></a><a href="#anc_xix_103"><span class="label">[XIX_103]</span></a> Plin.; Varro.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_104" id="footnote-xix_104"></a><a href="#anc_xix_104"><span class="label">[XIX_104]</span></a> Bochart, De Animal. Sacr. Script iii. 31.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_105" id="footnote-xix_105"></a><a href="#anc_xix_105"><span class="label">[XIX_105]</span></a> Strabo. Geograph. iii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_106" id="footnote-xix_106"></a><a href="#anc_xix_106"><span class="label">[XIX_106]</span></a> Galen. De Alim. Facul. iii.; Varro. R. R. iii. 12; -Plin. viii. 29.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_107" id="footnote-xix_107"></a><a href="#anc_xix_107"><span class="label">[XIX_107]</span></a> Varro. R. R.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_108" id="footnote-xix_108"></a><a href="#anc_xix_108"><span class="label">[XIX_108]</span></a> Plin. vii. 55.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_109" id="footnote-xix_109"></a><a href="#anc_xix_109"><span class="label">[XIX_109]</span></a> Galen. De Alim. Facult. iii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_110" id="footnote-xix_110"></a><a href="#anc_xix_110"><span class="label">[XIX_110]</span></a> Athen. iv. 4.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_111" id="footnote-xix_111"></a><a href="#anc_xix_111"><span class="label">[XIX_111]</span></a> Martial.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_112" id="footnote-xix_112"></a><a href="#anc_xix_112"><span class="label">[XIX_112]</span></a> Aristot. Hist. Animal. vi. 26.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_113" id="footnote-xix_113"></a><a href="#anc_xix_113"><span class="label">[XIX_113]</span></a> Athen. iv. 6.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_114" id="footnote-xix_114"></a><a href="#anc_xix_114"><span class="label">[XIX_114]</span></a> Strabo. Geograph.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_115" id="footnote-xix_115"></a><a href="#anc_xix_115"><span class="label">[XIX_115]</span></a> Photin. Biblioth. p. 1355.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_116" id="footnote-xix_116"></a><a href="#anc_xix_116"><span class="label">[XIX_116]</span></a> Le Vaillant, Voyages, tom. ii. p. 27. edit. 18mo.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_117" id="footnote-xix_117"></a><a href="#anc_xix_117"><span class="label">[XIX_117]</span></a> Id. Ibid. pp. 27 to 29.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_118" id="footnote-xix_118"></a><a href="#anc_xix_118"><span class="label">[XIX_118]</span></a> Senec. Epist. 85, sub fin.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xix_119" id="footnote-xix_119"></a><a href="#anc_xix_119"><span class="label">[XIX_119]</span></a> Id. De Brevit. Vitæ, cap. 13.</p></div> - -<p class="c">XX.</p> - -<p class="c">FEATHERED GAME.</p> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_1" id="footnote-xx_1"></a><a href="#anc_xx_1"><span class="label">[XX_1]</span></a> Levitic. xi. 13 to 19.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_2" id="footnote-xx_2"></a><a href="#anc_xx_2"><span class="label">[XX_2]</span></a> Clem. Alexandr. Stromat. vii. fol. 718. Lutet. 1629.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_3" id="footnote-xx_3"></a><a href="#anc_xx_3"><span class="label">[XX_3]</span></a> Aristophan. In Avib. 532, et 1578.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_4" id="footnote-xx_4"></a><a href="#anc_xx_4"><span class="label">[XX_4]</span></a> Plin. x. 51.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_5" id="footnote-xx_5"></a><a href="#anc_xx_5"><span class="label">[XX_5]</span></a> Belon. Histoire des Oiseaux. anno 1555.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_6" id="footnote-xx_6"></a><a href="#anc_xx_6"><span class="label">[XX_6]</span></a> Aristophan. In Avib.; Martial xiii. 72.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_7" id="footnote-xx_7"></a><a href="#anc_xx_7"><span class="label">[XX_7]</span></a> Manilius, 370.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_8" id="footnote-xx_8"></a><a href="#anc_xx_8"><span class="label">[XX_8]</span></a> Isidor. xii. 7.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_9" id="footnote-xx_9"></a><a href="#anc_xx_9"><span class="label">[XX_9]</span></a> Calixen. apud Athen. xix. 8.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_10" id="footnote-xx_10"></a><a href="#anc_xx_10"><span class="label">[XX_10]</span></a> Ptolem. Everget. Comment. xii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_11" id="footnote-xx_11"></a><a href="#anc_xx_11"><span class="label">[XX_11]</span></a> Aristophan. in Nubib. 109; Philoxen. ap. Athen. iv. 2.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_12" id="footnote-xx_12"></a><a href="#anc_xx_12"><span class="label">[XX_12]</span></a> Athen. xiv. 9.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_13" id="footnote-xx_13"></a><a href="#anc_xx_13"><span class="label">[XX_13]</span></a> Plin. x. 22; xi. 33, 37; xix. 4.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_14" id="footnote-xx_14"></a><a href="#anc_xx_14"><span class="label">[XX_14]</span></a> Sueton. In Vespasian.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_15" id="footnote-xx_15"></a><a href="#anc_xx_15"><span class="label">[XX_15]</span></a> Id.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_16" id="footnote-xx_16"></a><a href="#anc_xx_16"><span class="label">[XX_16]</span></a> Lamprid. xxxvii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_17" id="footnote-xx_17"></a><a href="#anc_xx_17"><span class="label">[XX_17]</span></a> Sueton. In Caligul. 22.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_18" id="footnote-xx_18"></a><a href="#anc_xx_18"><span class="label">[XX_18]</span></a> Id. Ibid. 30.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_19" id="footnote-xx_19"></a><a href="#anc_xx_19"><span class="label">[XX_19]</span></a> Petrarca, De Remed. Dialog. xviii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_20" id="footnote-xx_20"></a><a href="#anc_xx_20"><span class="label">[XX_20]</span></a> Galen. De Aliment. Facult. et passim.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_21" id="footnote-xx_21"></a><a href="#anc_xx_21"><span class="label">[XX_21]</span></a> Athen. ii. 12, et passim.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_22" id="footnote-xx_22"></a><a href="#anc_xx_22"><span class="label">[XX_22]</span></a> Plin. iv. 48.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_23" id="footnote-xx_23"></a><a href="#anc_xx_23"><span class="label">[XX_23]</span></a> Ælian. De Animal. Nat. ii. 1.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_24" id="footnote-xx_24"></a><a href="#anc_xx_24"><span class="label">[XX_24]</span></a> Lamprid. In Sever.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_25" id="footnote-xx_25"></a><a href="#anc_xx_25"><span class="label">[XX_25]</span></a> Aldrovand. Ornithol. xiii. 17.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_26" id="footnote-xx_26"></a><a href="#anc_xx_26"><span class="label">[XX_26]</span></a> Athen. i. 6.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_27" id="footnote-xx_27"></a><a href="#anc_xx_27"><span class="label">[XX_27]</span></a> Id. ix. 11.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_28" id="footnote-xx_28"></a><a href="#anc_xx_28"><span class="label">[XX_28]</span></a> Bochart. De Animal. Script. part. ii. lib. i. cap. 19.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_29" id="footnote-xx_29"></a><a href="#anc_xx_29"><span class="label">[XX_29]</span></a> Galen. De Part. Facili. cap. 155.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_30" id="footnote-xx_30"></a><a href="#anc_xx_30"><span class="label">[XX_30]</span></a> Athen. loc. cit.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_31" id="footnote-xx_31"></a><a href="#anc_xx_31"><span class="label">[XX_31]</span></a> Exod. xvi. 13.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_32" id="footnote-xx_32"></a><a href="#anc_xx_32"><span class="label">[XX_32]</span></a> Athen. ii. 12; iv. 1.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_33" id="footnote-xx_33"></a><a href="#anc_xx_33"><span class="label">[XX_33]</span></a> Aristophan. apud Athen. ix. 11.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_34" id="footnote-xx_34"></a><a href="#anc_xx_34"><span class="label">[XX_34]</span></a> Aristot. Hist. Animal. ix. 8.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_35" id="footnote-xx_35"></a><a href="#anc_xx_35"><span class="label">[XX_35]</span></a> Varro. R. R. iii. 5.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_36" id="footnote-xx_36"></a><a href="#anc_xx_36"><span class="label">[XX_36]</span></a> Plin. ix. 23, 72.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_37" id="footnote-xx_37"></a><a href="#anc_xx_37"><span class="label">[XX_37]</span></a> Galen. Epidemior. v. comm. 5, text 45.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_38" id="footnote-xx_38"></a><a href="#anc_xx_38"><span class="label">[XX_38]</span></a> Apud Athen. xi.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_39" id="footnote-xx_39"></a><a href="#anc_xx_39"><span class="label">[XX_39]</span></a> Aristot. Hist. Animal. ix. 8.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_40" id="footnote-xx_40"></a><a href="#anc_xx_40"><span class="label">[XX_40]</span></a> Lucian. In Dialog. de Gymnasiis.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_41" id="footnote-xx_41"></a><a href="#anc_xx_41"><span class="label">[XX_41]</span></a> Aldrovand. Ornith. xiii. 22.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_42" id="footnote-xx_42"></a><a href="#anc_xx_42"><span class="label">[XX_42]</span></a> Quintilian. Institut. Orat. v. 9.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_43" id="footnote-xx_43"></a><a href="#anc_xx_43"><span class="label">[XX_43]</span></a> Athen. ii. 12.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_44" id="footnote-xx_44"></a><a href="#anc_xx_44"><span class="label">[XX_44]</span></a> Id. xiv. 6; Aristophan. In Avibus.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_45" id="footnote-xx_45"></a><a href="#anc_xx_45"><span class="label">[XX_45]</span></a> Athen. iv. 1, et passim.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_46" id="footnote-xx_46"></a><a href="#anc_xx_46"><span class="label">[XX_46]</span></a> Clem. Alexandr. Pædagog. ii. 1.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_47" id="footnote-xx_47"></a><a href="#anc_xx_47"><span class="label">[XX_47]</span></a> Varro. R. R. iii. 2, 3.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_48" id="footnote-xx_48"></a><a href="#anc_xx_48"><span class="label">[XX_48]</span></a> Id. i. 38.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_49" id="footnote-xx_49"></a><a href="#anc_xx_49"><span class="label">[XX_49]</span></a> Id. iii. 5; Nonnius, ii. 29.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_50" id="footnote-xx_50"></a><a href="#anc_xx_50"><span class="label">[XX_50]</span></a> Varro. loc. cit.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_51" id="footnote-xx_51"></a><a href="#anc_xx_51"><span class="label">[XX_51]</span></a> Pers. Sat. vi.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_52" id="footnote-xx_52"></a><a href="#anc_xx_52"><span class="label">[XX_52]</span></a> Martial. iii 51.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_53" id="footnote-xx_53"></a><a href="#anc_xx_53"><span class="label">[XX_53]</span></a> Plaut. Triummo. act ii. sc. 4.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_54" id="footnote-xx_54"></a><a href="#anc_xx_54"><span class="label">[XX_54]</span></a> Lamprid. Elogabal.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_55" id="footnote-xx_55"></a><a href="#anc_xx_55"><span class="label">[XX_55]</span></a> Horat. Epist. xv. 41; Martial. xiii. 92.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_56" id="footnote-xx_56"></a><a href="#anc_xx_56"><span class="label">[XX_56]</span></a> Plutarch. In Pompeio.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_57" id="footnote-xx_57"></a><a href="#anc_xx_57"><span class="label">[XX_57]</span></a> Athen. ii. 12, et passim.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_58" id="footnote-xx_58"></a><a href="#anc_xx_58"><span class="label">[XX_58]</span></a> Varro. R. R. i. 38; Horat. Epist. ii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_59" id="footnote-xx_59"></a><a href="#anc_xx_59"><span class="label">[XX_59]</span></a> Galen. De Cibis Boni et Mali Succi. i.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_60" id="footnote-xx_60"></a><a href="#anc_xx_60"><span class="label">[XX_60]</span></a> Chroniq. Scandal. de Louis XI.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_61" id="footnote-xx_61"></a><a href="#anc_xx_61"><span class="label">[XX_61]</span></a> Plin. x. 42.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_62" id="footnote-xx_62"></a><a href="#anc_xx_62"><span class="label">[XX_62]</span></a> Athen. ii. 12.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_63" id="footnote-xx_63"></a><a href="#anc_xx_63"><span class="label">[XX_63]</span></a> Galen. De Sanit. Tuendâ. xi. 16.</p></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_429" id="page_429"></a>{429}</span></p> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_64" id="footnote-xx_64"></a><a href="#anc_xx_64"><span class="label">[XX_64]</span></a> Apicius, x. 48.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_65" id="footnote-xx_65"></a><a href="#anc_xx_65"><span class="label">[XX_65]</span></a> Latinus Latinius; Bayle.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_66" id="footnote-xx_66"></a><a href="#anc_xx_66"><span class="label">[XX_66]</span></a> Molière; Amphitryon.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_67" id="footnote-xx_67"></a><a href="#anc_xx_67"><span class="label">[XX_67]</span></a> Kiranides. c. 7.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_68" id="footnote-xx_68"></a><a href="#anc_xx_68"><span class="label">[XX_68]</span></a> Martial. xiii. 66.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_69" id="footnote-xx_69"></a><a href="#anc_xx_69"><span class="label">[XX_69]</span></a> Sueton.; Lamprid.; Plin. x. 48.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_70" id="footnote-xx_70"></a><a href="#anc_xx_70"><span class="label">[XX_70]</span></a> Histoire Générale des Voyages, tom. i. p. 269.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_71" id="footnote-xx_71"></a><a href="#anc_xx_71"><span class="label">[XX_71]</span></a> Petron. c. 33.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_72" id="footnote-xx_72"></a><a href="#anc_xx_72"><span class="label">[XX_72]</span></a> Aristot. Hist. Animal. ix. 49; Plin. x. 29.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_73" id="footnote-xx_73"></a><a href="#anc_xx_73"><span class="label">[XX_73]</span></a> Athen. xiv.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_74" id="footnote-xx_74"></a><a href="#anc_xx_74"><span class="label">[XX_74]</span></a> Martial. xiii. 48.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_75" id="footnote-xx_75"></a><a href="#anc_xx_75"><span class="label">[XX_75]</span></a> Juvenal. xiv. 7.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_76" id="footnote-xx_76"></a><a href="#anc_xx_76"><span class="label">[XX_76]</span></a> Varro. R. R. iii. 5.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_77" id="footnote-xx_77"></a><a href="#anc_xx_77"><span class="label">[XX_77]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_78" id="footnote-xx_78"></a><a href="#anc_xx_78"><span class="label">[XX_78]</span></a> Strabo. xvi.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_79" id="footnote-xx_79"></a><a href="#anc_xx_79"><span class="label">[XX_79]</span></a> Marmol. Africa.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_80" id="footnote-xx_80"></a><a href="#anc_xx_80"><span class="label">[XX_80]</span></a> Lamprid. In Elogab.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_81" id="footnote-xx_81"></a><a href="#anc_xx_81"><span class="label">[XX_81]</span></a> Rosin. Antiquit. Roman. p. 207.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_82" id="footnote-xx_82"></a><a href="#anc_xx_82"><span class="label">[XX_82]</span></a> Horat. Sat. lib. i. 2, 49.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_83" id="footnote-xx_83"></a><a href="#anc_xx_83"><span class="label">[XX_83]</span></a> Nepot. Fragm. x. 1.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_84" id="footnote-xx_84"></a><a href="#anc_xx_84"><span class="label">[XX_84]</span></a> Aristot. Hist. Animal. ix. 26.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_85" id="footnote-xx_85"></a><a href="#anc_xx_85"><span class="label">[XX_85]</span></a> Varro. R. R. iii 9.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_86" id="footnote-xx_86"></a><a href="#anc_xx_86"><span class="label">[XX_86]</span></a> Athen. i. 28.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_87" id="footnote-xx_87"></a><a href="#anc_xx_87"><span class="label">[XX_87]</span></a> Plin. x. 22.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_88" id="footnote-xx_88"></a><a href="#anc_xx_88"><span class="label">[XX_88]</span></a> Martial. xiii. 76.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_89" id="footnote-xx_89"></a><a href="#anc_xx_89"><span class="label">[XX_89]</span></a> Antiphan. apud Athen. ii. 12.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_90" id="footnote-xx_90"></a><a href="#anc_xx_90"><span class="label">[XX_90]</span></a> Ambros. In cap. i. Epist. ad Rom.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_91" id="footnote-xx_91"></a><a href="#anc_xx_91"><span class="label">[XX_91]</span></a> Martial, xiii. 85.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_92" id="footnote-xx_92"></a><a href="#anc_xx_92"><span class="label">[XX_92]</span></a> Aristot. Hist. Animal.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_93" id="footnote-xx_93"></a><a href="#anc_xx_93"><span class="label">[XX_93]</span></a> Banier. Mytholog. tom. i. p. 354.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_94" id="footnote-xx_94"></a><a href="#anc_xx_94"><span class="label">[XX_94]</span></a> Martial. v.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_95" id="footnote-xx_95"></a><a href="#anc_xx_95"><span class="label">[XX_95]</span></a> Galen. De Simplic. Medic. Facultat. xi. 33.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_96" id="footnote-xx_96"></a><a href="#anc_xx_96"><span class="label">[XX_96]</span></a> Suidas In Vitell.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_97" id="footnote-xx_97"></a><a href="#anc_xx_97"><span class="label">[XX_97]</span></a> Nicolas, Etudes sur le Christianisme. tom. i. 254.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_98" id="footnote-xx_98"></a><a href="#anc_xx_98"><span class="label">[XX_98]</span></a> Horat Sat. i. 3.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_99" id="footnote-xx_99"></a><a href="#anc_xx_99"><span class="label">[XX_99]</span></a> Plutarch, Vita Caton.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_100" id="footnote-xx_100"></a><a href="#anc_xx_100"><span class="label">[XX_100]</span></a> Id. Vita Flamin.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_101" id="footnote-xx_101"></a><a href="#anc_xx_101"><span class="label">[XX_101]</span></a> Tacit.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_102" id="footnote-xx_102"></a><a href="#anc_xx_102"><span class="label">[XX_102]</span></a> Nicolas, loc. cit.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_103" id="footnote-xx_103"></a><a href="#anc_xx_103"><span class="label">[XX_103]</span></a> Plin. xxxii. 8; Cels. v. 6, 18; Dioscorid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xx_104" id="footnote-xx_104"></a><a href="#anc_xx_104"><span class="label">[XX_104]</span></a> Diction. d’ Hist. Nat.</p></div> - -<p class="c">XXI.</p> - -<p class="c">FISH.</p> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_1" id="footnote-xxi_1"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_1"><span class="label">[XXI_1]</span></a> Columell. R. R.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_2" id="footnote-xxi_2"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_2"><span class="label">[XXI_2]</span></a> Levitic. xi. 10.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_3" id="footnote-xxi_3"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_3"><span class="label">[XXI_3]</span></a> Strab. xvii. 1.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_4" id="footnote-xxi_4"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_4"><span class="label">[XXI_4]</span></a> Clem. Alexandr. Strom. vii. fol. 718; Lutet. 1619.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_5" id="footnote-xxi_5"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_5"><span class="label">[XXI_5]</span></a> Athen. viii. 4.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_6" id="footnote-xxi_6"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_6"><span class="label">[XXI_6]</span></a> Odyss. xii. 332.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_7" id="footnote-xxi_7"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_7"><span class="label">[XXI_7]</span></a> Plat. De Republ. iii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_8" id="footnote-xxi_8"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_8"><span class="label">[XXI_8]</span></a> Athen. i.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_9" id="footnote-xxi_9"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_9"><span class="label">[XXI_9]</span></a> Id. viii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_10" id="footnote-xxi_10"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_10"><span class="label">[XXI_10]</span></a> Lucian. Bion Praxis.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_11" id="footnote-xxi_11"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_11"><span class="label">[XXI_11]</span></a> Athen. vii. 20.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_12" id="footnote-xxi_12"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_12"><span class="label">[XXI_12]</span></a> Id. vi. 2.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_13" id="footnote-xxi_13"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_13"><span class="label">[XXI_13]</span></a> Xenarch. Comic. Apud Athen.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_14" id="footnote-xxi_14"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_14"><span class="label">[XXI_14]</span></a> Plutarch. Sympos. iv. 4.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_15" id="footnote-xxi_15"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_15"><span class="label">[XXI_15]</span></a> Plin. xviii. 3.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_16" id="footnote-xxi_16"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_16"><span class="label">[XXI_16]</span></a> Senec. Quæst. Natural. iii. 17, 18.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_17" id="footnote-xxi_17"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_17"><span class="label">[XXI_17]</span></a> Juvenal iv. 11.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_18" id="footnote-xxi_18"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_18"><span class="label">[XXI_18]</span></a> Plin. ix.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_19" id="footnote-xxi_19"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_19"><span class="label">[XXI_19]</span></a> Cic. Epist. xx. ad Atticum. 1.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_20" id="footnote-xxi_20"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_20"><span class="label">[XXI_20]</span></a> Plin. loc. cit; Dio Cassius, L. iv.; Senec. De -Clement. i. 18.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_21" id="footnote-xxi_21"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_21"><span class="label">[XXI_21]</span></a> Senec. De Ira. iii. 40.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_22" id="footnote-xxi_22"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_22"><span class="label">[XXI_22]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_23" id="footnote-xxi_23"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_23"><span class="label">[XXI_23]</span></a> Dio In Sever, xxi.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_24" id="footnote-xxi_24"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_24"><span class="label">[XXI_24]</span></a> Règlements de St. Louis.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_25" id="footnote-xxi_25"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_25"><span class="label">[XXI_25]</span></a> Edit sans date.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_26" id="footnote-xxi_26"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_26"><span class="label">[XXI_26]</span></a> Lettres Patentes du 19 Mars, 1543.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_27" id="footnote-xxi_27"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_27"><span class="label">[XXI_27]</span></a> Ib. du 16 Septembre, 1606.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_28" id="footnote-xxi_28"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_28"><span class="label">[XXI_28]</span></a> The Popish Kingdome, fol. 55.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_29" id="footnote-xxi_29"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_29"><span class="label">[XXI_29]</span></a> Delamarre.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_30" id="footnote-xxi_30"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_30"><span class="label">[XXI_30]</span></a> Poésies des Troubadours.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_31" id="footnote-xxi_31"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_31"><span class="label">[XXI_31]</span></a> Athen. vii. 6, 12; Macrob. Saturnal. iii. 16.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_32" id="footnote-xxi_32"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_32"><span class="label">[XXI_32]</span></a> Athen. loc. cit.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_33" id="footnote-xxi_33"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_33"><span class="label">[XXI_33]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_34" id="footnote-xxi_34"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_34"><span class="label">[XXI_34]</span></a> Plin. ix. 17.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_35" id="footnote-xxi_35"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_35"><span class="label">[XXI_35]</span></a> Martial. xiii. 91.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_36" id="footnote-xxi_36"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_36"><span class="label">[XXI_36]</span></a> Dio liii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_37" id="footnote-xxi_37"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_37"><span class="label">[XXI_37]</span></a> Statutum de Prærogativa Regis; anno 17, Edward, ii. c. -11.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_38" id="footnote-xxi_38"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_38"><span class="label">[XXI_38]</span></a> Sonnini, Poissons. tom. iv. p. 351.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_39" id="footnote-xxi_39"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_39"><span class="label">[XXI_39]</span></a> Id. Ib. p. 341.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_40" id="footnote-xxi_40"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_40"><span class="label">[XXI_40]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_41" id="footnote-xxi_41"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_41"><span class="label">[XXI_41]</span></a> Diction. de la Conversation, tom. ii. 533.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_42" id="footnote-xxi_42"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_42"><span class="label">[XXI_42]</span></a> Diction. d’Histoire Naturel. tom. x. p. 485.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_43" id="footnote-xxi_43"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_43"><span class="label">[XXI_43]</span></a> Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_44" id="footnote-xxi_44"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_44"><span class="label">[XXI_44]</span></a> Athen. i. 11.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_45" id="footnote-xxi_45"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_45"><span class="label">[XXI_45]</span></a> Senec. Quæst. Natur. iii. 17, 18.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_46" id="footnote-xxi_46"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_46"><span class="label">[XXI_46]</span></a> Plin. ix. 30.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_47" id="footnote-xxi_47"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_47"><span class="label">[XXI_47]</span></a> Horat. Sat. ii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_48" id="footnote-xxi_48"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_48"><span class="label">[XXI_48]</span></a> Martial. x. 31.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_49" id="footnote-xxi_49"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_49"><span class="label">[XXI_49]</span></a> Juvenal. iv. 11.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_50" id="footnote-xxi_50"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_50"><span class="label">[XXI_50]</span></a> Sueton. In Tiber. 34.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_51" id="footnote-xxi_51"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_51"><span class="label">[XXI_51]</span></a> Senec. Epist. 95.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_52" id="footnote-xxi_52"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_52"><span class="label">[XXI_52]</span></a> Galen. De Aliment. Facultat.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_53" id="footnote-xxi_53"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_53"><span class="label">[XXI_53]</span></a> Plin. ix. 31.</p></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_430" id="page_430"></a>{430}</span></p> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_54" id="footnote-xxi_54"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_54"><span class="label">[XXI_54]</span></a> Lamprid. Elogab. 20.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_55" id="footnote-xxi_55"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_55"><span class="label">[XXI_55]</span></a> Apicius, ix. 13.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_56" id="footnote-xxi_56"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_56"><span class="label">[XXI_56]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_57" id="footnote-xxi_57"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_57"><span class="label">[XXI_57]</span></a> Athen. vii. 22.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_58" id="footnote-xxi_58"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_58"><span class="label">[XXI_58]</span></a> Macrob. Sat. iii. 15; Ælian. Var. Hist. c. 173; -Porphyr. De Abstin. ab Animal.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_59" id="footnote-xxi_59"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_59"><span class="label">[XXI_59]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_60" id="footnote-xxi_60"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_60"><span class="label">[XXI_60]</span></a> Plin. x. 70; Lucian. De Deâ Syr.; Martial, x. 30.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_61" id="footnote-xxi_61"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_61"><span class="label">[XXI_61]</span></a> Varro. R. R. iii. 2, 17.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_62" id="footnote-xxi_62"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_62"><span class="label">[XXI_62]</span></a> Id. viii. 16.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_63" id="footnote-xxi_63"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_63"><span class="label">[XXI_63]</span></a> Tertullian. De Pallio.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_64" id="footnote-xxi_64"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_64"><span class="label">[XXI_64]</span></a> Geoponic. xx.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_65" id="footnote-xxi_65"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_65"><span class="label">[XXI_65]</span></a> Varro. iii. 3; Platina, De Tuendâ Valetudin.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_66" id="footnote-xxi_66"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_66"><span class="label">[XXI_66]</span></a> Sueton. In Vitel.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_67" id="footnote-xxi_67"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_67"><span class="label">[XXI_67]</span></a> Lamprid. In Elogab.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_68" id="footnote-xxi_68"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_68"><span class="label">[XXI_68]</span></a> Athen. i. 6.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_69" id="footnote-xxi_69"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_69"><span class="label">[XXI_69]</span></a> Horat. Sat ii. ult.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_70" id="footnote-xxi_70"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_70"><span class="label">[XXI_70]</span></a> Apicius, x. 8.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_71" id="footnote-xxi_71"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_71"><span class="label">[XXI_71]</span></a> Galen. De Aliment. Facul. iii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_72" id="footnote-xxi_72"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_72"><span class="label">[XXI_72]</span></a> Herodot. ii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_73" id="footnote-xxi_73"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_73"><span class="label">[XXI_73]</span></a> Sonnini, Poissons, tom. vi. p. 51.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_74" id="footnote-xxi_74"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_74"><span class="label">[XXI_74]</span></a> Id. Ib. p. 60.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_75" id="footnote-xxi_75"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_75"><span class="label">[XXI_75]</span></a> Macrob. Saturnal. ii. 2.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_76" id="footnote-xxi_76"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_76"><span class="label">[XXI_76]</span></a> Gessner, De Aquatilibus, iii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_77" id="footnote-xxi_77"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_77"><span class="label">[XXI_77]</span></a> Oppian. Halieuticon, x.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_78" id="footnote-xxi_78"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_78"><span class="label">[XXI_78]</span></a> Pennant, British Zoology, vol. iii. p. 78.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_79" id="footnote-xxi_79"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_79"><span class="label">[XXI_79]</span></a> Bloch. Ichtyologie: Lamproie.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_80" id="footnote-xxi_80"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_80"><span class="label">[XXI_80]</span></a> Paolo Giovio.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_81" id="footnote-xxi_81"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_81"><span class="label">[XXI_81]</span></a> Platina.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_82" id="footnote-xxi_82"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_82"><span class="label">[XXI_82]</span></a> Id.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_83" id="footnote-xxi_83"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_83"><span class="label">[XXI_83]</span></a> Athen. vii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_84" id="footnote-xxi_84"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_84"><span class="label">[XXI_84]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_85" id="footnote-xxi_85"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_85"><span class="label">[XXI_85]</span></a> Plin. ix. 17.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_86" id="footnote-xxi_86"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_86"><span class="label">[XXI_86]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_87" id="footnote-xxi_87"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_87"><span class="label">[XXI_87]</span></a> Marlianus, Topographia, v.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_88" id="footnote-xxi_88"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_88"><span class="label">[XXI_88]</span></a> Plato. apud. Athen. vii. 8.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_89" id="footnote-xxi_89"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_89"><span class="label">[XXI_89]</span></a> Horat. Epod. ii. v. 49.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_90" id="footnote-xxi_90"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_90"><span class="label">[XXI_90]</span></a> Athen. vii.; Martial xiii. 84.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_91" id="footnote-xxi_91"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_91"><span class="label">[XXI_91]</span></a> Plin. ix. 17.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_92" id="footnote-xxi_92"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_92"><span class="label">[XXI_92]</span></a> Aristot. ii. 17.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_93" id="footnote-xxi_93"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_93"><span class="label">[XXI_93]</span></a> Ælian. i. 2.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_94" id="footnote-xxi_94"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_94"><span class="label">[XXI_94]</span></a> Oppian. Halieut. iv, 78.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_95" id="footnote-xxi_95"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_95"><span class="label">[XXI_95]</span></a> Horat.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_96" id="footnote-xxi_96"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_96"><span class="label">[XXI_96]</span></a> Plin. ix. 42.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_97" id="footnote-xxi_97"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_97"><span class="label">[XXI_97]</span></a> Juvenal. Sat. iv.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_98" id="footnote-xxi_98"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_98"><span class="label">[XXI_98]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_99" id="footnote-xxi_99"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_99"><span class="label">[XXI_99]</span></a> Berchoux, Gastronomie.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_100" id="footnote-xxi_100"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_100"><span class="label">[XXI_100]</span></a> Clem. Alexandr. Pædagog.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_101" id="footnote-xxi_101"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_101"><span class="label">[XXI_101]</span></a> Athen. i. 6.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_102" id="footnote-xxi_102"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_102"><span class="label">[XXI_102]</span></a> Plat. apud Athen. vii. 8.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_103" id="footnote-xxi_103"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_103"><span class="label">[XXI_103]</span></a> Strab.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_104" id="footnote-xxi_104"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_104"><span class="label">[XXI_104]</span></a> Encyclop. Méthod. Antiquités.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_105" id="footnote-xxi_105"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_105"><span class="label">[XXI_105]</span></a> Nonnius, Ichthyophagia, p. 9.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_106" id="footnote-xxi_106"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_106"><span class="label">[XXI_106]</span></a> Aristot. Hist. Animal. viii. 13.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_107" id="footnote-xxi_107"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_107"><span class="label">[XXI_107]</span></a> Plin. ix. 15.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_108" id="footnote-xxi_108"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_108"><span class="label">[XXI_108]</span></a> Apicius, ix. 12.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_109" id="footnote-xxi_109"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_109"><span class="label">[XXI_109]</span></a> Athen.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_110" id="footnote-xxi_110"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_110"><span class="label">[XXI_110]</span></a> Id.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_111" id="footnote-xxi_111"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_111"><span class="label">[XXI_111]</span></a> Plin. ix. 3.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_112" id="footnote-xxi_112"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_112"><span class="label">[XXI_112]</span></a> Cetti, Pesce di Sardegna, p. 134.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_113" id="footnote-xxi_113"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_113"><span class="label">[XXI_113]</span></a> Aldrovand. De Piscibus; Gessner, De Piscibus.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_114" id="footnote-xxi_114"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_114"><span class="label">[XXI_114]</span></a> Eudox. apud Athen. vii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_115" id="footnote-xxi_115"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_115"><span class="label">[XXI_115]</span></a> Archestrat. apud Athen. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_116" id="footnote-xxi_116"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_116"><span class="label">[XXI_116]</span></a> Philœmon. apud Athen. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_117" id="footnote-xxi_117"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_117"><span class="label">[XXI_117]</span></a> Galen. De Aliment. Facult.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_118" id="footnote-xxi_118"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_118"><span class="label">[XXI_118]</span></a> Plat. apud Athen. vii. 8.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_119" id="footnote-xxi_119"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_119"><span class="label">[XXI_119]</span></a> Apicius, x. 2.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_120" id="footnote-xxi_120"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_120"><span class="label">[XXI_120]</span></a> Paw.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_121" id="footnote-xxi_121"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_121"><span class="label">[XXI_121]</span></a> Herodot. Hist.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_122" id="footnote-xxi_122"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_122"><span class="label">[XXI_122]</span></a> Apollodor. In Chronic.; Plutarch. De Solert. Animal.; -Ælian. De Piscibus.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_123" id="footnote-xxi_123"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_123"><span class="label">[XXI_123]</span></a> Athen. vii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_124" id="footnote-xxi_124"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_124"><span class="label">[XXI_124]</span></a> Agathiocid. apud Athen.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_125" id="footnote-xxi_125"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_125"><span class="label">[XXI_125]</span></a> Macrob. Saturnal. ii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_126" id="footnote-xxi_126"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_126"><span class="label">[XXI_126]</span></a> Aristophan. In Lysistrat. 36.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_127" id="footnote-xxi_127"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_127"><span class="label">[XXI_127]</span></a> Bulenger. De Conviviis. xi. 30.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_128" id="footnote-xxi_128"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_128"><span class="label">[XXI_128]</span></a> Athen. vii. 12, 13.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_129" id="footnote-xxi_129"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_129"><span class="label">[XXI_129]</span></a> Hippocrat. De Internis Affect.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_130" id="footnote-xxi_130"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_130"><span class="label">[XXI_130]</span></a> Apud Athen.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_131" id="footnote-xxi_131"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_131"><span class="label">[XXI_131]</span></a> Juvenal. Sat v.; Nonnius, iii. 5.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_132" id="footnote-xxi_132"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_132"><span class="label">[XXI_132]</span></a> Apicius, x. 14.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_133" id="footnote-xxi_133"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_133"><span class="label">[XXI_133]</span></a> Bloch. Ichtyolog. Anguille.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_134" id="footnote-xxi_134"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_134"><span class="label">[XXI_134]</span></a> Plin. ix. 2.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_135" id="footnote-xxi_135"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_135"><span class="label">[XXI_135]</span></a> Auson. Mosella.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_136" id="footnote-xxi_136"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_136"><span class="label">[XXI_136]</span></a> Bloch. Ichtyolog.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_137" id="footnote-xxi_137"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_137"><span class="label">[XXI_137]</span></a> Aristot. iv. 8; vi. 14; Athen. vii.; Plin. xxxii. -11.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_138" id="footnote-xxi_138"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_138"><span class="label">[XXI_138]</span></a> Alexand. apud Athen. vii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_139" id="footnote-xxi_139"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_139"><span class="label">[XXI_139]</span></a> Apicius, iv. 2.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_140" id="footnote-xxi_140"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_140"><span class="label">[XXI_140]</span></a> Bloch.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_141" id="footnote-xxi_141"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_141"><span class="label">[XXI_141]</span></a> Id.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_142" id="footnote-xxi_142"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_142"><span class="label">[XXI_142]</span></a> Plin. ix. 29.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_143" id="footnote-xxi_143"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_143"><span class="label">[XXI_143]</span></a> Athen. vii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_144" id="footnote-xxi_144"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_144"><span class="label">[XXI_144]</span></a> Ælian. Hist. Animal. xvii. 1.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_145" id="footnote-xxi_145"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_145"><span class="label">[XXI_145]</span></a> Varro. iii. 3.; Plin. ix. 17, 54.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_146" id="footnote-xxi_146"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_146"><span class="label">[XXI_146]</span></a> Athen.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_147" id="footnote-xxi_147"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_147"><span class="label">[XXI_147]</span></a> Macrob. Saturnal. iii. 15.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_148" id="footnote-xxi_148"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_148"><span class="label">[XXI_148]</span></a> Plin. xxxii. 5.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_149" id="footnote-xxi_149"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_149"><span class="label">[XXI_149]</span></a> Martial xiii. 90.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_150" id="footnote-xxi_150"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_150"><span class="label">[XXI_150]</span></a> Festus.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_151" id="footnote-xxi_151"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_151"><span class="label">[XXI_151]</span></a> Apicius, x. 12.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_152" id="footnote-xxi_152"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_152"><span class="label">[XXI_152]</span></a> Rondelet. Poissons.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_153" id="footnote-xxi_153"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_153"><span class="label">[XXI_153]</span></a> Athen.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_154" id="footnote-xxi_154"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_154"><span class="label">[XXI_154]</span></a> Apicius, ix. 9.</p></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_431" id="page_431"></a>{431}</span></p> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_155" id="footnote-xxi_155"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_155"><span class="label">[XXI_155]</span></a> Plin. ix. 17.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_156" id="footnote-xxi_156"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_156"><span class="label">[XXI_156]</span></a> Athen. vii. 20.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_157" id="footnote-xxi_157"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_157"><span class="label">[XXI_157]</span></a> Galen. De Aliment. Facult. iii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_158" id="footnote-xxi_158"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_158"><span class="label">[XXI_158]</span></a> Bloch.; Sonnini.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_159" id="footnote-xxi_159"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_159"><span class="label">[XXI_159]</span></a> Aristot vi. 14.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_160" id="footnote-xxi_160"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_160"><span class="label">[XXI_160]</span></a> Athen.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_161" id="footnote-xxi_161"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_161"><span class="label">[XXI_161]</span></a> Id.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_162" id="footnote-xxi_162"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_162"><span class="label">[XXI_162]</span></a> Auson. In Mosel.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_163" id="footnote-xxi_163"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_163"><span class="label">[XXI_163]</span></a> Apicius, x. 6.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_164" id="footnote-xxi_164"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_164"><span class="label">[XXI_164]</span></a> Lacépède, Poissons, tom iii. p. 131, note.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_165" id="footnote-xxi_165"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_165"><span class="label">[XXI_165]</span></a> Plato apud Athen. vii. 8.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_166" id="footnote-xxi_166"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_166"><span class="label">[XXI_166]</span></a> Dorion. apud Athen. vii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_167" id="footnote-xxi_167"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_167"><span class="label">[XXI_167]</span></a> Arist. Hist. Animal. ii. 5.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_168" id="footnote-xxi_168"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_168"><span class="label">[XXI_168]</span></a> Plin. ix. 42.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_169" id="footnote-xxi_169"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_169"><span class="label">[XXI_169]</span></a> Lacépède, Poissons, tom. iii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_170" id="footnote-xxi_170"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_170"><span class="label">[XXI_170]</span></a> Id. Ib. p. 117.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_171" id="footnote-xxi_171"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_171"><span class="label">[XXI_171]</span></a> Salmo à Saltu; Olaus Magnus, xx. 3.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_172" id="footnote-xxi_172"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_172"><span class="label">[XXI_172]</span></a> Auson. In Mosel. 97.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_173" id="footnote-xxi_173"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_173"><span class="label">[XXI_173]</span></a> Plin. ix. 18.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_174" id="footnote-xxi_174"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_174"><span class="label">[XXI_174]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_175" id="footnote-xxi_175"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_175"><span class="label">[XXI_175]</span></a> Sir W. Scott, The Covenanters, vol. i. chap. viii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_176" id="footnote-xxi_176"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_176"><span class="label">[XXI_176]</span></a> Plin. ix. 29.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_177" id="footnote-xxi_177"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_177"><span class="label">[XXI_177]</span></a> Apicius, ix. 4.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_178" id="footnote-xxi_178"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_178"><span class="label">[XXI_178]</span></a> Athen. vii. 7; Aldrovand. iii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_179" id="footnote-xxi_179"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_179"><span class="label">[XXI_179]</span></a> Scholiast. Aristophan. In Equit. 768.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_180" id="footnote-xxi_180"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_180"><span class="label">[XXI_180]</span></a> Auson. Mosel. 827.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_181" id="footnote-xxi_181"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_181"><span class="label">[XXI_181]</span></a> Horat. Sat. ii. 2.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_182" id="footnote-xxi_182"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_182"><span class="label">[XXI_182]</span></a> Apicius, x. 1.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_183" id="footnote-xxi_183"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_183"><span class="label">[XXI_183]</span></a> Juvenal. xv. 317.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_184" id="footnote-xxi_184"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_184"><span class="label">[XXI_184]</span></a> Apicius, ix. 11.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_185" id="footnote-xxi_185"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_185"><span class="label">[XXI_185]</span></a> Athen. i. 6.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_186" id="footnote-xxi_186"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_186"><span class="label">[XXI_186]</span></a> Vid. Ælian. Hist. Animal. xiv. 1.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_187" id="footnote-xxi_187"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_187"><span class="label">[XXI_187]</span></a> Athen. i. 49.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_188" id="footnote-xxi_188"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_188"><span class="label">[XXI_188]</span></a> Horat. Sat. ii. 8.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_189" id="footnote-xxi_189"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_189"><span class="label">[XXI_189]</span></a> Plin. xxii. 11.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_190" id="footnote-xxi_190"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_190"><span class="label">[XXI_190]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_191" id="footnote-xxi_191"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_191"><span class="label">[XXI_191]</span></a> Auson. Mosel. 125.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_192" id="footnote-xxi_192"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_192"><span class="label">[XXI_192]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_193" id="footnote-xxi_193"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_193"><span class="label">[XXI_193]</span></a> Mnesim. apud Athen. ix. 15; Aldrovand. De Piscibus, -ii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_194" id="footnote-xxi_194"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_194"><span class="label">[XXI_194]</span></a> Apicius, ix. 3.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_195" id="footnote-xxi_195"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_195"><span class="label">[XXI_195]</span></a> Athen. vii. 22.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_196" id="footnote-xxi_196"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_196"><span class="label">[XXI_196]</span></a> Galen. De Cib. Boni et Mali Succi.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_197" id="footnote-xxi_197"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_197"><span class="label">[XXI_197]</span></a> Sonnini, Poissons, tom. iv. p. 143.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_198" id="footnote-xxi_198"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_198"><span class="label">[XXI_198]</span></a> Aldrovand. De Piscibus, iii. 66.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_199" id="footnote-xxi_199"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_199"><span class="label">[XXI_199]</span></a> Columell. viii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_200" id="footnote-xxi_200"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_200"><span class="label">[XXI_200]</span></a> Plin. xxxii. 11.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_201" id="footnote-xxi_201"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_201"><span class="label">[XXI_201]</span></a> Athen. vii. 8; Aldrovand. ii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_202" id="footnote-xxi_202"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_202"><span class="label">[XXI_202]</span></a> Galen. De Aliment. Facult. iii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_203" id="footnote-xxi_203"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_203"><span class="label">[XXI_203]</span></a> Apicius, ix. 10.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_204" id="footnote-xxi_204"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_204"><span class="label">[XXI_204]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_205" id="footnote-xxi_205"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_205"><span class="label">[XXI_205]</span></a> Athen. i. 6.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_206" id="footnote-xxi_206"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_206"><span class="label">[XXI_206]</span></a> Plutarch. De Superstit.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_207" id="footnote-xxi_207"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_207"><span class="label">[XXI_207]</span></a> Apicius, iv. 2.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_208" id="footnote-xxi_208"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_208"><span class="label">[XXI_208]</span></a> Anaximand. apud Athen. vii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_209" id="footnote-xxi_209"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_209"><span class="label">[XXI_209]</span></a> Martial. xiii. 88.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_210" id="footnote-xxi_210"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_210"><span class="label">[XXI_210]</span></a> Plin. ix. 17.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_211" id="footnote-xxi_211"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_211"><span class="label">[XXI_211]</span></a> Bosc. Hareng.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_212" id="footnote-xxi_212"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_212"><span class="label">[XXI_212]</span></a> Sonnini, Anchois.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_213" id="footnote-xxi_213"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_213"><span class="label">[XXI_213]</span></a> Dio. Caligul.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_214" id="footnote-xxi_214"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_214"><span class="label">[XXI_214]</span></a> Athen. iii. 12.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_215" id="footnote-xxi_215"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_215"><span class="label">[XXI_215]</span></a> Horat. Epod. ii. 49.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_216" id="footnote-xxi_216"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_216"><span class="label">[XXI_216]</span></a> Athen. i. 6.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_217" id="footnote-xxi_217"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_217"><span class="label">[XXI_217]</span></a> Apicius, ix. 14.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_218" id="footnote-xxi_218"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_218"><span class="label">[XXI_218]</span></a> Id. ix. 7.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_219" id="footnote-xxi_219"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_219"><span class="label">[XXI_219]</span></a> Macrob. Saturnal.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_220" id="footnote-xxi_220"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_220"><span class="label">[XXI_220]</span></a> Lucilius, Sat. xiii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_221" id="footnote-xxi_221"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_221"><span class="label">[XXI_221]</span></a> Plutarch. Sympos. ix.; Senec. Epist 108.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_222" id="footnote-xxi_222"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_222"><span class="label">[XXI_222]</span></a> Athen. iv.; Clem. Alex. Pædag. ii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_223" id="footnote-xxi_223"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_223"><span class="label">[XXI_223]</span></a> Athen. loc. cit.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_224" id="footnote-xxi_224"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_224"><span class="label">[XXI_224]</span></a> Senec. Epist. 88.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_225" id="footnote-xxi_225"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_225"><span class="label">[XXI_225]</span></a> Plin. xxxii. 6.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_226" id="footnote-xxi_226"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_226"><span class="label">[XXI_226]</span></a> Juvenal. vi. 302.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_227" id="footnote-xxi_227"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_227"><span class="label">[XXI_227]</span></a> Plin. loc. cit.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_228" id="footnote-xxi_228"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_228"><span class="label">[XXI_228]</span></a> Athen. iv.; Macrob. iii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_229" id="footnote-xxi_229"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_229"><span class="label">[XXI_229]</span></a> Nonnins, iii. 36.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_230" id="footnote-xxi_230"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_230"><span class="label">[XXI_230]</span></a> Plin. loc. cit</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_231" id="footnote-xxi_231"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_231"><span class="label">[XXI_231]</span></a> Id. ix. 54.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_232" id="footnote-xxi_232"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_232"><span class="label">[XXI_232]</span></a> Plin. loc. cit; Varro. R, R. iii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_233" id="footnote-xxi_233"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_233"><span class="label">[XXI_233]</span></a> Plin. loc. cit.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_234" id="footnote-xxi_234"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_234"><span class="label">[XXI_234]</span></a> Athen. i. xiii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_235" id="footnote-xxi_235"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_235"><span class="label">[XXI_235]</span></a> Senec.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_236" id="footnote-xxi_236"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_236"><span class="label">[XXI_236]</span></a> Dio.; Sueton.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_237" id="footnote-xxi_237"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_237"><span class="label">[XXI_237]</span></a> Athen. i. 6.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_238" id="footnote-xxi_238"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_238"><span class="label">[XXI_238]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_239" id="footnote-xxi_239"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_239"><span class="label">[XXI_239]</span></a> Auson. Epist. xiii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_240" id="footnote-xxi_240"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_240"><span class="label">[XXI_240]</span></a> Id. Ib.; Sidon. Apollinar.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_241" id="footnote-xxi_241"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_241"><span class="label">[XXI_241]</span></a> Apicius, ix. 6.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_242" id="footnote-xxi_242"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_242"><span class="label">[XXI_242]</span></a> Id. i. 12.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_243" id="footnote-xxi_243"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_243"><span class="label">[XXI_243]</span></a> Athen. iii. 23.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_244" id="footnote-xxi_244"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_244"><span class="label">[XXI_244]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_245" id="footnote-xxi_245"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_245"><span class="label">[XXI_245]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_246" id="footnote-xxi_246"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_246"><span class="label">[XXI_246]</span></a> Trallian. De Epilepsiâ.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_247" id="footnote-xxi_247"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_247"><span class="label">[XXI_247]</span></a> Apicius, ix. 8.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_248" id="footnote-xxi_248"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_248"><span class="label">[XXI_248]</span></a> Id. iii. 5.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_249" id="footnote-xxi_249"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_249"><span class="label">[XXI_249]</span></a> Id. i. 29.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_250" id="footnote-xxi_250"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_250"><span class="label">[XXI_250]</span></a> Athen. loc. cit.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_251" id="footnote-xxi_251"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_251"><span class="label">[XXI_251]</span></a> Horat. Sat. lib. ii. 4.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_252" id="footnote-xxi_252"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_252"><span class="label">[XXI_252]</span></a> Isidor. Origin. xii. 6.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_253" id="footnote-xxi_253"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_253"><span class="label">[XXI_253]</span></a> Strabo. vii.; Plin. ix. 19.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_254" id="footnote-xxi_254"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_254"><span class="label">[XXI_254]</span></a> Plin. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_255" id="footnote-xxi_255"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_255"><span class="label">[XXI_255]</span></a> Ælian. De Animal. xii. 41.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_256" id="footnote-xxi_256"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_256"><span class="label">[XXI_256]</span></a> Chiliad.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_257" id="footnote-xxi_257"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_257"><span class="label">[XXI_257]</span></a> Plin. xxxii. 2.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_258" id="footnote-xxi_258"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_258"><span class="label">[XXI_258]</span></a> Apicius, ix. 2.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_259" id="footnote-xxi_259"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_259"><span class="label">[XXI_259]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_260" id="footnote-xxi_260"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_260"><span class="label">[XXI_260]</span></a> Athen. i. 12.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_261" id="footnote-xxi_261"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_261"><span class="label">[XXI_261]</span></a> Plin. ix. 2.</p></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_432" id="page_432"></a>{432}</span></p> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_262" id="footnote-xxi_262"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_262"><span class="label">[XXI_262]</span></a> Juvenal.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_263" id="footnote-xxi_263"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_263"><span class="label">[XXI_263]</span></a> Apicius, ix. 1.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_264" id="footnote-xxi_264"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_264"><span class="label">[XXI_264]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_265" id="footnote-xxi_265"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_265"><span class="label">[XXI_265]</span></a> Maton. Parog. apud Athen.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_266" id="footnote-xxi_266"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_266"><span class="label">[XXI_266]</span></a> Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_267" id="footnote-xxi_267"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_267"><span class="label">[XXI_267]</span></a> Apicius, loc. cit.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_268" id="footnote-xxi_268"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_268"><span class="label">[XXI_268]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_269" id="footnote-xxi_269"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_269"><span class="label">[XXI_269]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_270" id="footnote-xxi_270"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_270"><span class="label">[XXI_270]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_271" id="footnote-xxi_271"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_271"><span class="label">[XXI_271]</span></a> Athen. i. 8.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_272" id="footnote-xxi_272"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_272"><span class="label">[XXI_272]</span></a> Apicius, ix. 5.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_273" id="footnote-xxi_273"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_273"><span class="label">[XXI_273]</span></a> Isai. xix. 8; Jerem. xvi. 16; Ezech. xlvii. 10.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_274" id="footnote-xxi_274"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_274"><span class="label">[XXI_274]</span></a> Homer. Odyss. xxii. 384.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_275" id="footnote-xxi_275"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_275"><span class="label">[XXI_275]</span></a> 944 years <small>B.C.</small></p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_276" id="footnote-xxi_276"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_276"><span class="label">[XXI_276]</span></a> Hesiod. Scut. Hercul. v. 212.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_277" id="footnote-xxi_277"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_277"><span class="label">[XXI_277]</span></a> Plutarch. Sympos.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_278" id="footnote-xxi_278"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_278"><span class="label">[XXI_278]</span></a> Ercolano. 1757, tom. i. Tavola, 36.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_279" id="footnote-xxi_279"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_279"><span class="label">[XXI_279]</span></a> Varro.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_280" id="footnote-xxi_280"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_280"><span class="label">[XXI_280]</span></a> Cic. Epist. lib. ii. ad Atticum.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_281" id="footnote-xxi_281"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_281"><span class="label">[XXI_281]</span></a> Senec. Controv. v. 5.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_282" id="footnote-xxi_282"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_282"><span class="label">[XXI_282]</span></a> Id. Epist. 100.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_283" id="footnote-xxi_283"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_283"><span class="label">[XXI_283]</span></a> Id. Nat. Quæst. iii. 17.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_284" id="footnote-xxi_284"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_284"><span class="label">[XXI_284]</span></a> Apicius, i. 2.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxi_285" id="footnote-xxi_285"></a><a href="#anc_xxi_285"><span class="label">[XXI_285]</span></a> Galen. De Cib. &c. 15.</p></div> - -<p class="c">XXII.</p> - -<p class="c">THE COOK.</p> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_1" id="footnote-xxii_1"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_1"><span class="label">[XXII_1]</span></a> Medicus ad Palatum.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_2" id="footnote-xxii_2"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_2"><span class="label">[XXII_2]</span></a> Anton. Liberal. Fab. ii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_3" id="footnote-xxii_3"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_3"><span class="label">[XXII_3]</span></a> Senec. Epist. 95.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_4" id="footnote-xxii_4"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_4"><span class="label">[XXII_4]</span></a> Dio In Neron.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_5" id="footnote-xxii_5"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_5"><span class="label">[XXII_5]</span></a> Alexand. ab Alexandr. Genial. Dier.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_6" id="footnote-xxii_6"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_6"><span class="label">[XXII_6]</span></a> Lex Fannia; L. Orchia; L. Cornelia, &c.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_7" id="footnote-xxii_7"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_7"><span class="label">[XXII_7]</span></a> Martial. Domini debet habere gulam.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_8" id="footnote-xxii_8"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_8"><span class="label">[XXII_8]</span></a> Athen. i. 31.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_9" id="footnote-xxii_9"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_9"><span class="label">[XXII_9]</span></a> Homer. Iliad.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_10" id="footnote-xxii_10"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_10"><span class="label">[XXII_10]</span></a> Evemer. apud Athen. xiv. 22.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_11" id="footnote-xxii_11"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_11"><span class="label">[XXII_11]</span></a> Athen. vii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_12" id="footnote-xxii_12"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_12"><span class="label">[XXII_12]</span></a> Id. i. 8.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_13" id="footnote-xxii_13"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_13"><span class="label">[XXII_13]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_14" id="footnote-xxii_14"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_14"><span class="label">[XXII_14]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_15" id="footnote-xxii_15"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_15"><span class="label">[XXII_15]</span></a> Plato. In Gorg.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_16" id="footnote-xxii_16"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_16"><span class="label">[XXII_16]</span></a> Athen. i. 7.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_17" id="footnote-xxii_17"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_17"><span class="label">[XXII_17]</span></a> Id. i. 9.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_18" id="footnote-xxii_18"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_18"><span class="label">[XXII_18]</span></a> Id. i. 10.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_19" id="footnote-xxii_19"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_19"><span class="label">[XXII_19]</span></a> Senec. Oculorum Gula.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_20" id="footnote-xxii_20"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_20"><span class="label">[XXII_20]</span></a> Athen. xii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_21" id="footnote-xxii_21"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_21"><span class="label">[XXII_21]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_22" id="footnote-xxii_22"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_22"><span class="label">[XXII_22]</span></a> Ælian. Var. Hist. i. 27.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_23" id="footnote-xxii_23"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_23"><span class="label">[XXII_23]</span></a> Plutarch. Præcept. San.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_24" id="footnote-xxii_24"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_24"><span class="label">[XXII_24]</span></a> Sueton. In Claud. 32.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_25" id="footnote-xxii_25"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_25"><span class="label">[XXII_25]</span></a> Id. In Vitell.; Dio.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_26" id="footnote-xxii_26"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_26"><span class="label">[XXII_26]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_27" id="footnote-xxii_27"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_27"><span class="label">[XXII_27]</span></a> Sueton. In Tiber. 42.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_28" id="footnote-xxii_28"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_28"><span class="label">[XXII_28]</span></a> Id in Galba. 22.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_29" id="footnote-xxii_29"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_29"><span class="label">[XXII_29]</span></a> Spartian. In Vero. 5.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_30" id="footnote-xxii_30"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_30"><span class="label">[XXII_30]</span></a> Id. In Getâ.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_31" id="footnote-xxii_31"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_31"><span class="label">[XXII_31]</span></a> Taillevant.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_32" id="footnote-xxii_32"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_32"><span class="label">[XXII_32]</span></a> Id.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_33" id="footnote-xxii_33"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_33"><span class="label">[XXII_33]</span></a> Id.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_34" id="footnote-xxii_34"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_34"><span class="label">[XXII_34]</span></a> Histoire dn Dauphiné.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_35" id="footnote-xxii_35"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_35"><span class="label">[XXII_35]</span></a> Froissart, tom. iv. chap. 2.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_36" id="footnote-xxii_36"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_36"><span class="label">[XXII_36]</span></a> Ecole de Salerne, &c.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_37" id="footnote-xxii_37"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_37"><span class="label">[XXII_37]</span></a> Monteil, Histoire des Français, tom. ii. p. 68.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_38" id="footnote-xxii_38"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_38"><span class="label">[XXII_38]</span></a> Mémoires de Lamarche.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_39" id="footnote-xxii_39"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_39"><span class="label">[XXII_39]</span></a> Onuphr. Panvini.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_40" id="footnote-xxii_40"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_40"><span class="label">[XXII_40]</span></a> Martial. vii. 30.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_41" id="footnote-xxii_41"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_41"><span class="label">[XXII_41]</span></a> Varro. R. R. i. 2.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_42" id="footnote-xxii_42"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_42"><span class="label">[XXII_42]</span></a> Petron. edit. Nodot. tom. i. p. 116.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_43" id="footnote-xxii_43"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_43"><span class="label">[XXII_43]</span></a> Donat. In Adelph. act iv. sc. 2.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_44" id="footnote-xxii_44"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_44"><span class="label">[XXII_44]</span></a> Juvenal. vii. 184.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_45" id="footnote-xxii_45"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_45"><span class="label">[XXII_45]</span></a> Senec. Epist. 47.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_46" id="footnote-xxii_46"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_46"><span class="label">[XXII_46]</span></a> Varro. De Vitâ Popul. Roman. i.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_47" id="footnote-xxii_47"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_47"><span class="label">[XXII_47]</span></a> Vid. Lips. Saturn. ii. 2; Juvenal. v. 121.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_48" id="footnote-xxii_48"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_48"><span class="label">[XXII_48]</span></a> Petron. c. 36; Senec. Epist 47.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_49" id="footnote-xxii_49"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_49"><span class="label">[XXII_49]</span></a> Sidon. Apollin. ii. Epist. 9.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_50" id="footnote-xxii_50"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_50"><span class="label">[XXII_50]</span></a> Ercolano.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_51" id="footnote-xxii_51"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_51"><span class="label">[XXII_51]</span></a> Petron. c. 47.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_52" id="footnote-xxii_52"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_52"><span class="label">[XXII_52]</span></a> Stephan. v. Foculus.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_53" id="footnote-xxii_53"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_53"><span class="label">[XXII_53]</span></a> Horat. Od. i. 9, v. 5.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_54" id="footnote-xxii_54"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_54"><span class="label">[XXII_54]</span></a> Juvenal. Sat. ii. 262.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_55" id="footnote-xxii_55"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_55"><span class="label">[XXII_55]</span></a> Rosin. Antiquit. Roman. p. 237.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_56" id="footnote-xxii_56"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_56"><span class="label">[XXII_56]</span></a> Aristophan. Vesp. act i. sc. 2.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_57" id="footnote-xxii_57"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_57"><span class="label">[XXII_57]</span></a> Appian. Bell. Civil. iv.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_58" id="footnote-xxii_58"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_58"><span class="label">[XXII_58]</span></a> Athen. i. 49.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_59" id="footnote-xxii_59"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_59"><span class="label">[XXII_59]</span></a> Virg. Æneid. iii. 466.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_60" id="footnote-xxii_60"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_60"><span class="label">[XXII_60]</span></a> Athen. i. viii.; Plin. xvi. 11.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_61" id="footnote-xxii_61"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_61"><span class="label">[XXII_61]</span></a> Ercolano.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_62" id="footnote-xxii_62"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_62"><span class="label">[XXII_62]</span></a> Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_63" id="footnote-xxii_63"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_63"><span class="label">[XXII_63]</span></a> Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_64" id="footnote-xxii_64"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_64"><span class="label">[XXII_64]</span></a> Lamprid. Elogab. 19; Cic. Pro Rosc. Amer. 133.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_65" id="footnote-xxii_65"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_65"><span class="label">[XXII_65]</span></a> Encyclopéd. Méthod. Antiquités.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_66" id="footnote-xxii_66"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_66"><span class="label">[XXII_66]</span></a> Galen. De Compos. Medicam. iii. 5.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_67" id="footnote-xxii_67"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_67"><span class="label">[XXII_67]</span></a> Apicius, passim.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_68" id="footnote-xxii_68"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_68"><span class="label">[XXII_68]</span></a> Ercolano; Varro. De L. L. iv. 27.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_69" id="footnote-xxii_69"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_69"><span class="label">[XXII_69]</span></a> Encyclopéd. loc. cit.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_70" id="footnote-xxii_70"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_70"><span class="label">[XXII_70]</span></a> Columell. xii. 46.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_71" id="footnote-xxii_71"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_71"><span class="label">[XXII_71]</span></a> Apud Siracidem. xiii. 3.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_72" id="footnote-xxii_72"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_72"><span class="label">[XXII_72]</span></a> Senec. Epist. 85.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_73" id="footnote-xxii_73"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_73"><span class="label">[XXII_73]</span></a> Caylus, Antiquit. Romain. tom. i.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_74" id="footnote-xxii_74"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_74"><span class="label">[XXII_74]</span></a> Plin. xxiii. 2.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_75" id="footnote-xxii_75"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_75"><span class="label">[XXII_75]</span></a> Cato. R. R. 84.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_76" id="footnote-xxii_76"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_76"><span class="label">[XXII_76]</span></a> Varro. De L. L. iv.; Plin. xxxiii. 4.</p></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_433" id="page_433"></a>{433}</span></p> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_77" id="footnote-xxii_77"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_77"><span class="label">[XXII_77]</span></a> Ercolano; Winckelmann.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_78" id="footnote-xxii_78"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_78"><span class="label">[XXII_78]</span></a> Petron. c. 33; Martial. xiv. 121.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_79" id="footnote-xxii_79"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_79"><span class="label">[XXII_79]</span></a> Athen. i. 6.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_80" id="footnote-xxii_80"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_80"><span class="label">[XXII_80]</span></a> Caylus, Recueil d’Antiquités, tom, iii. pl 84, no. -5.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_81" id="footnote-xxii_81"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_81"><span class="label">[XXII_81]</span></a> Ercolano.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_82" id="footnote-xxii_82"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_82"><span class="label">[XXII_82]</span></a> Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_83" id="footnote-xxii_83"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_83"><span class="label">[XXII_83]</span></a> Coel. Rhodig. xiii. 32.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_84" id="footnote-xxii_84"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_84"><span class="label">[XXII_84]</span></a> Aristophan. In Avibus. 361.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_85" id="footnote-xxii_85"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_85"><span class="label">[XXII_85]</span></a> Mat Régnier, Sat. x.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_86" id="footnote-xxii_86"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_86"><span class="label">[XXII_86]</span></a> Cic. Tuscul. v. 21; Martial. xii. 67; Tit. Liv. -xxxix. 6.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_87" id="footnote-xxii_87"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_87"><span class="label">[XXII_87]</span></a> Athen. ii. 9.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_88" id="footnote-xxii_88"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_88"><span class="label">[XXII_88]</span></a> Petron. Satyr.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_89" id="footnote-xxii_89"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_89"><span class="label">[XXII_89]</span></a> Beyerlink. Theatr. Vitæ Human.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_90" id="footnote-xxii_90"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_90"><span class="label">[XXII_90]</span></a> Cato. c. 74.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_91" id="footnote-xxii_91"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_91"><span class="label">[XXII_91]</span></a> Plin. xviii. 11.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_92" id="footnote-xxii_92"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_92"><span class="label">[XXII_92]</span></a> Pers. Sat.; Plin. loc. cit.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_93" id="footnote-xxii_93"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_93"><span class="label">[XXII_93]</span></a> Plin. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_94" id="footnote-xxii_94"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_94"><span class="label">[XXII_94]</span></a> Athen. iv.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_95" id="footnote-xxii_95"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_95"><span class="label">[XXII_95]</span></a> Varro. R. R. iii. 14.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_96" id="footnote-xxii_96"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_96"><span class="label">[XXII_96]</span></a> Plin. xviii. 24.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxii_97" id="footnote-xxii_97"></a><a href="#anc_xxii_97"><span class="label">[XXII_97]</span></a> Id. Ib.; Veget. De Arte Vet. i. 52.</p></div> - -<p class="c">XXIII.</p> - -<p class="c">SEASONINGS.</p> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_1" id="footnote-xxiii_1"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_1"><span class="label">[XXIII_1]</span></a> Euseb. Præpar. Evang. i.; Polydor. Virgil. De Rerum. -Invent. iii. 5.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_2" id="footnote-xxiii_2"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_2"><span class="label">[XXIII_2]</span></a> Levitic. ii. 3.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_3" id="footnote-xxiii_3"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_3"><span class="label">[XXIII_3]</span></a> Diodor. Sicul. ii. 48.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_4" id="footnote-xxiii_4"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_4"><span class="label">[XXIII_4]</span></a> Galen. De Simplic. Medicam.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_5" id="footnote-xxiii_5"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_5"><span class="label">[XXIII_5]</span></a> Festus.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_6" id="footnote-xxiii_6"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_6"><span class="label">[XXIII_6]</span></a> Arnob. ii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_7" id="footnote-xxiii_7"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_7"><span class="label">[XXIII_7]</span></a> Sallust. Bell. Tugurt.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_8" id="footnote-xxiii_8"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_8"><span class="label">[XXIII_8]</span></a> Athen. iii. 1.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_9" id="footnote-xxiii_9"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_9"><span class="label">[XXIII_9]</span></a> Tit. Liv. xi. 9.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_10" id="footnote-xxiii_10"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_10"><span class="label">[XXIII_10]</span></a> Plin. xxxi. 7.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_11" id="footnote-xxiii_11"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_11"><span class="label">[XXIII_11]</span></a> Lib. vi. F. F. De Captiv. et Post.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_12" id="footnote-xxiii_12"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_12"><span class="label">[XXIII_12]</span></a> Delamarre.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_13" id="footnote-xxiii_13"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_13"><span class="label">[XXIII_13]</span></a> Plant Pœnul. i. 2, 32.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_14" id="footnote-xxiii_14"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_14"><span class="label">[XXIII_14]</span></a> Columell. xii. 6.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_15" id="footnote-xxiii_15"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_15"><span class="label">[XXIII_15]</span></a> Plin. xxxi. 8.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_16" id="footnote-xxiii_16"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_16"><span class="label">[XXIII_16]</span></a> Vid. Scaliger.; Auson. Lect. ii. 28, p. 165.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_17" id="footnote-xxiii_17"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_17"><span class="label">[XXIII_17]</span></a> Pollux, vi. 9; Athen. x.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_18" id="footnote-xxiii_18"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_18"><span class="label">[XXIII_18]</span></a> Apicius. i. 27.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_19" id="footnote-xxiii_19"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_19"><span class="label">[XXIII_19]</span></a> Plin. xxxi. 3, 7.; xxxii. 11.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_20" id="footnote-xxiii_20"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_20"><span class="label">[XXIII_20]</span></a> Isidor. Origin. xx. 3.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_21" id="footnote-xxiii_21"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_21"><span class="label">[XXIII_21]</span></a> Plin. loc. cit.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_22" id="footnote-xxiii_22"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_22"><span class="label">[XXIII_22]</span></a> Id. xxxi. 43.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_23" id="footnote-xxiii_23"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_23"><span class="label">[XXIII_23]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_24" id="footnote-xxiii_24"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_24"><span class="label">[XXIII_24]</span></a> Martial. xiii. 102.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_25" id="footnote-xxiii_25"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_25"><span class="label">[XXIII_25]</span></a> Plin. xxxi. 8.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_26" id="footnote-xxiii_26"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_26"><span class="label">[XXIII_26]</span></a> Plin. à Lemaire. tom. viii. p. 439, note.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_27" id="footnote-xxiii_27"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_27"><span class="label">[XXIII_27]</span></a> Stephan. Thesaur. Ling. Græc. v. Garon.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_28" id="footnote-xxiii_28"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_28"><span class="label">[XXIII_28]</span></a> Id. Ib.; Geoponic. xx.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_29" id="footnote-xxiii_29"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_29"><span class="label">[XXIII_29]</span></a> Apicius; Plin. à Lemaire. tom. viii. p. 435, note.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_30" id="footnote-xxiii_30"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_30"><span class="label">[XXIII_30]</span></a> Plin. ix. 17.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_31" id="footnote-xxiii_31"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_31"><span class="label">[XXIII_31]</span></a> Id. viii. 31.; Nonnius. iii. 44.; Columell. vi 9.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_32" id="footnote-xxiii_32"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_32"><span class="label">[XXIII_32]</span></a> Geoponic. xx.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_33" id="footnote-xxiii_33"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_33"><span class="label">[XXIII_33]</span></a> Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_34" id="footnote-xxiii_34"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_34"><span class="label">[XXIII_34]</span></a> Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_35" id="footnote-xxiii_35"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_35"><span class="label">[XXIII_35]</span></a> Dioscord.; Stephan. loc. cit.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_36" id="footnote-xxiii_36"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_36"><span class="label">[XXIII_36]</span></a> Stephan. Ib.; Martial. viii. 26.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_37" id="footnote-xxiii_37"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_37"><span class="label">[XXIII_37]</span></a> Stephan. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_38" id="footnote-xxiii_38"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_38"><span class="label">[XXIII_38]</span></a> Galen. De Simplic. Medici, ii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_39" id="footnote-xxiii_39"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_39"><span class="label">[XXIII_39]</span></a> Lamprid. Elogab. 29.; Apicius, i. 31.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_40" id="footnote-xxiii_40"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_40"><span class="label">[XXIII_40]</span></a> Apicius, i. 34.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_41" id="footnote-xxiii_41"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_41"><span class="label">[XXIII_41]</span></a> Id. i. 33.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_42" id="footnote-xxiii_42"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_42"><span class="label">[XXIII_42]</span></a> Id. i. 35.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_43" id="footnote-xxiii_43"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_43"><span class="label">[XXIII_43]</span></a> Judic. xiv. 18.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_44" id="footnote-xxiii_44"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_44"><span class="label">[XXIII_44]</span></a> Plin. xxii. 24.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_45" id="footnote-xxiii_45"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_45"><span class="label">[XXIII_45]</span></a> Geoponic. xv. 7.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_46" id="footnote-xxiii_46"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_46"><span class="label">[XXIII_46]</span></a> Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_47" id="footnote-xxiii_47"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_47"><span class="label">[XXIII_47]</span></a> Plin. loc. cit.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_48" id="footnote-xxiii_48"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_48"><span class="label">[XXIII_48]</span></a> Apollod. ii.; Pausan. viii.; Plin. vii. 56.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_49" id="footnote-xxiii_49"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_49"><span class="label">[XXIII_49]</span></a> Genes. xliii. 11.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_50" id="footnote-xxiii_50"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_50"><span class="label">[XXIII_50]</span></a> Justin. xiii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_51" id="footnote-xxiii_51"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_51"><span class="label">[XXIII_51]</span></a> Plin. xi. 13.; xxi. 10.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_52" id="footnote-xxiii_52"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_52"><span class="label">[XXIII_52]</span></a> Athen. iii. 25.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_53" id="footnote-xxiii_53"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_53"><span class="label">[XXIII_53]</span></a> Diog. Laert Vitæ Philosophor. viii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_54" id="footnote-xxiii_54"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_54"><span class="label">[XXIII_54]</span></a> Athen. ii. 6.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_55" id="footnote-xxiii_55"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_55"><span class="label">[XXIII_55]</span></a> Fulgentius. De Obscuris Vocibus.; Arnob.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_56" id="footnote-xxiii_56"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_56"><span class="label">[XXIII_56]</span></a> Theophrast. De Melle.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_57" id="footnote-xxiii_57"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_57"><span class="label">[XXIII_57]</span></a> Virgil. Georg. iv.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_58" id="footnote-xxiii_58"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_58"><span class="label">[XXIII_58]</span></a> Plin. x. 5, 12.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_59" id="footnote-xxiii_59"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_59"><span class="label">[XXIII_59]</span></a> Galen. De Aliment. Facult. iii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_60" id="footnote-xxiii_60"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_60"><span class="label">[XXIII_60]</span></a> Varro.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_61" id="footnote-xxiii_61"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_61"><span class="label">[XXIII_61]</span></a> Aristot. Hist. Animal. iii 10.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_62" id="footnote-xxiii_62"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_62"><span class="label">[XXIII_62]</span></a> Dioscorid. ii. 75.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_63" id="footnote-xxiii_63"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_63"><span class="label">[XXIII_63]</span></a> Id. Ib.; Plin. xxii. 24.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_64" id="footnote-xxiii_64"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_64"><span class="label">[XXIII_64]</span></a> Apicius, i. 1.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_65" id="footnote-xxiii_65"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_65"><span class="label">[XXIII_65]</span></a> Id. i. 32.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_66" id="footnote-xxiii_66"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_66"><span class="label">[XXIII_66]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_67" id="footnote-xxiii_67"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_67"><span class="label">[XXIII_67]</span></a> Theophrast. loc. cit.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_68" id="footnote-xxiii_68"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_68"><span class="label">[XXIII_68]</span></a> Dioscorid. ii. 75.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_69" id="footnote-xxiii_69"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_69"><span class="label">[XXIII_69]</span></a> Plin. xii. 8.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_70" id="footnote-xxiii_70"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_70"><span class="label">[XXIII_70]</span></a> Strabo. xv.; Senec. Epist. 64; Galen. De Simpl. -Medic. vii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_71" id="footnote-xxiii_71"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_71"><span class="label">[XXIII_71]</span></a> Panl. Æginet. De Ling. Asperitate, c. 2.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_72" id="footnote-xxiii_72"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_72"><span class="label">[XXIII_72]</span></a> Pancirol. Rerum Mirabilium, &c. ii. 5.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_73" id="footnote-xxiii_73"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_73"><span class="label">[XXIII_73]</span></a> Theophrast. Hist. Plant. iv. 6; ix. 4, 5.7.</p></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_434" id="page_434"></a>{434}</span></p> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_74" id="footnote-xxiii_74"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_74"><span class="label">[XXIII_74]</span></a> Herodot. Hist.; Aristot. Hist. Animal. ix. 14.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_75" id="footnote-xxiii_75"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_75"><span class="label">[XXIII_75]</span></a> Plin. xii. 19.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_76" id="footnote-xxiii_76"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_76"><span class="label">[XXIII_76]</span></a> Galen. De Antidotis.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_77" id="footnote-xxiii_77"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_77"><span class="label">[XXIII_77]</span></a> Id. De Simplic. Medic. vii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_78" id="footnote-xxiii_78"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_78"><span class="label">[XXIII_78]</span></a> Mathiol. In Dioscorid. i. 13; anno 1570.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_79" id="footnote-xxiii_79"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_79"><span class="label">[XXIII_79]</span></a> Saint-Foix, Essais sur Paris.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_80" id="footnote-xxiii_80"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_80"><span class="label">[XXIII_80]</span></a> Plin. xii. 7.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_81" id="footnote-xxiii_81"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_81"><span class="label">[XXIII_81]</span></a> Theophrast. ix. 22.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_82" id="footnote-xxiii_82"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_82"><span class="label">[XXIII_82]</span></a> Dioscorid. ii. 153; Plin. xii. 27.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_83" id="footnote-xxiii_83"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_83"><span class="label">[XXIII_83]</span></a> Dioscorid. v. 6, et ibi Mathiol.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_84" id="footnote-xxiii_84"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_84"><span class="label">[XXIII_84]</span></a> Galen. De Simplic. Medicam. iv. v.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_85" id="footnote-xxiii_85"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_85"><span class="label">[XXIII_85]</span></a> Ruth ii. 12.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_86" id="footnote-xxiii_86"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_86"><span class="label">[XXIII_86]</span></a> Athen. ii. 26.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_87" id="footnote-xxiii_87"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_87"><span class="label">[XXIII_87]</span></a> Juvenal xiii. 85; Martial xiii. 122.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_88" id="footnote-xxiii_88"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_88"><span class="label">[XXIII_88]</span></a> Columell. xii. 17; Plin. xiv. 20.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_89" id="footnote-xxiii_89"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_89"><span class="label">[XXIII_89]</span></a> Dioscorid. v. 17; Galen. Simpl. Medic. i; Æginet. De -Simpl. p. 51.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_90" id="footnote-xxiii_90"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_90"><span class="label">[XXIII_90]</span></a> Spartian. In Hadrian.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_91" id="footnote-xxiii_91"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_91"><span class="label">[XXIII_91]</span></a> Columell. xii. 4.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_92" id="footnote-xxiii_92"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_92"><span class="label">[XXIII_92]</span></a> Salmas. Exercitat Plinianæ, p. 898; Plin. xx. 20.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_93" id="footnote-xxiii_93"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_93"><span class="label">[XXIII_93]</span></a> Amelot de la Houssaye, Mémoires Historiques.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_94" id="footnote-xxiii_94"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_94"><span class="label">[XXIII_94]</span></a> Athen. ii. 21.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_95" id="footnote-xxiii_95"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_95"><span class="label">[XXIII_95]</span></a> Plin. xix. 2.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_96" id="footnote-xxiii_96"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_96"><span class="label">[XXIII_96]</span></a> Id. xix. 3.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_97" id="footnote-xxiii_97"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_97"><span class="label">[XXIII_97]</span></a> Id. xix. 2.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_98" id="footnote-xxiii_98"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_98"><span class="label">[XXIII_98]</span></a> Dioscorides.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_99" id="footnote-xxiii_99"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_99"><span class="label">[XXIII_99]</span></a> Id.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_100" id="footnote-xxiii_100"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_100"><span class="label">[XXIII_100]</span></a> Athen.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_101" id="footnote-xxiii_101"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_101"><span class="label">[XXIII_101]</span></a> Philoxen. apud Athen.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_102" id="footnote-xxiii_102"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_102"><span class="label">[XXIII_102]</span></a> Athen. ii. 21.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_103" id="footnote-xxiii_103"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_103"><span class="label">[XXIII_103]</span></a> Martial xiii. 50.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_104" id="footnote-xxiii_104"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_104"><span class="label">[XXIII_104]</span></a> Apicius, i. 31.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_105" id="footnote-xxiii_105"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_105"><span class="label">[XXIII_105]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_106" id="footnote-xxiii_106"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_106"><span class="label">[XXIII_106]</span></a> Platina, De Honestâ Voluptate.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_107" id="footnote-xxiii_107"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_107"><span class="label">[XXIII_107]</span></a> Avicenn.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_108" id="footnote-xxiii_108"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_108"><span class="label">[XXIII_108]</span></a> Plin. xix. 2.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_109" id="footnote-xxiii_109"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_109"><span class="label">[XXIII_109]</span></a> Apicius, i. 25.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_110" id="footnote-xxiii_110"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_110"><span class="label">[XXIII_110]</span></a> Dio. In Claud. sub. fin.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_111" id="footnote-xxiii_111"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_111"><span class="label">[XXIII_111]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_112" id="footnote-xxiii_112"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_112"><span class="label">[XXIII_112]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_113" id="footnote-xxiii_113"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_113"><span class="label">[XXIII_113]</span></a> Senec. Epist. xcv.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_114" id="footnote-xxiii_114"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_114"><span class="label">[XXIII_114]</span></a> Id. Epist. cviii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_115" id="footnote-xxiii_115"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_115"><span class="label">[XXIII_115]</span></a> Horat. ii. Sat. iv.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_116" id="footnote-xxiii_116"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_116"><span class="label">[XXIII_116]</span></a> Senec. Nat. Quæst. iv. 13, sub fin.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_117" id="footnote-xxiii_117"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_117"><span class="label">[XXIII_117]</span></a> Martial, xiii. 47.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_118" id="footnote-xxiii_118"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_118"><span class="label">[XXIII_118]</span></a> Athen. ii. 19.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_119" id="footnote-xxiii_119"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_119"><span class="label">[XXIII_119]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_120" id="footnote-xxiii_120"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_120"><span class="label">[XXIII_120]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiii_121" id="footnote-xxiii_121"></a><a href="#anc_xxiii_121"><span class="label">[XXIII_121]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<p class="c">XXIV.</p> - -<p class="c">PASTRY.</p> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiv_1" id="footnote-xxiv_1"></a><a href="#anc_xxiv_1"><span class="label">[XXIV_1]</span></a> Dictionnaire de la Conversation, tom. xlii. p. 344.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiv_2" id="footnote-xxiv_2"></a><a href="#anc_xxiv_2"><span class="label">[XXIV_2]</span></a> Genes. xl. 17.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiv_3" id="footnote-xxiv_3"></a><a href="#anc_xxiv_3"><span class="label">[XXIV_3]</span></a> Calmet. Bible, tom. vi. p. 257, fol.; Levit. ii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiv_4" id="footnote-xxiv_4"></a><a href="#anc_xxiv_4"><span class="label">[XXIV_4]</span></a> Athen. iii. 25.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiv_5" id="footnote-xxiv_5"></a><a href="#anc_xxiv_5"><span class="label">[XXIV_5]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiv_6" id="footnote-xxiv_6"></a><a href="#anc_xxiv_6"><span class="label">[XXIV_6]</span></a> Hesychius; Plin. viii. 2.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiv_7" id="footnote-xxiv_7"></a><a href="#anc_xxiv_7"><span class="label">[XXIV_7]</span></a> Athen. iv. 14.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiv_8" id="footnote-xxiv_8"></a><a href="#anc_xxiv_8"><span class="label">[XXIV_8]</span></a> Cic. Familiar. ix. 20.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiv_9" id="footnote-xxiv_9"></a><a href="#anc_xxiv_9"><span class="label">[XXIV_9]</span></a> Levitic. ii. 5.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiv_10" id="footnote-xxiv_10"></a><a href="#anc_xxiv_10"><span class="label">[XXIV_10]</span></a> Athen. xiv. 14.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiv_11" id="footnote-xxiv_11"></a><a href="#anc_xxiv_11"><span class="label">[XXIV_11]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiv_12" id="footnote-xxiv_12"></a><a href="#anc_xxiv_12"><span class="label">[XXIV_12]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiv_13" id="footnote-xxiv_13"></a><a href="#anc_xxiv_13"><span class="label">[XXIV_13]</span></a> Lamprid. In Elogab. c. 27.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiv_14" id="footnote-xxiv_14"></a><a href="#anc_xxiv_14"><span class="label">[XXIV_14]</span></a> Athen.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiv_15" id="footnote-xxiv_15"></a><a href="#anc_xxiv_15"><span class="label">[XXIV_15]</span></a> Id. xiv.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiv_16" id="footnote-xxiv_16"></a><a href="#anc_xxiv_16"><span class="label">[XXIV_16]</span></a> Juvenal. vi. 202.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiv_17" id="footnote-xxiv_17"></a><a href="#anc_xxiv_17"><span class="label">[XXIV_17]</span></a> Cato. R. R. c. 84.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiv_18" id="footnote-xxiv_18"></a><a href="#anc_xxiv_18"><span class="label">[XXIV_18]</span></a> Pers. vi. 50.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiv_19" id="footnote-xxiv_19"></a><a href="#anc_xxiv_19"><span class="label">[XXIV_19]</span></a> Spartian. In Vero. 5.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiv_20" id="footnote-xxiv_20"></a><a href="#anc_xxiv_20"><span class="label">[XXIV_20]</span></a> Cato. R. R.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiv_21" id="footnote-xxiv_21"></a><a href="#anc_xxiv_21"><span class="label">[XXIV_21]</span></a> Fabri Thesaurus v. Placenta.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiv_22" id="footnote-xxiv_22"></a><a href="#anc_xxiv_22"><span class="label">[XXIV_22]</span></a> Horat. Epist. i. 10, 11; Plin. vii. 53; Athen. ii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiv_23" id="footnote-xxiv_23"></a><a href="#anc_xxiv_23"><span class="label">[XXIV_23]</span></a> Plin. xviii. 11.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiv_24" id="footnote-xxiv_24"></a><a href="#anc_xxiv_24"><span class="label">[XXIV_24]</span></a> Cato. R. R.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiv_25" id="footnote-xxiv_25"></a><a href="#anc_xxiv_25"><span class="label">[XXIV_25]</span></a> Id. Ib. c. 80.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiv_26" id="footnote-xxiv_26"></a><a href="#anc_xxiv_26"><span class="label">[XXIV_26]</span></a> Plin. xviii. 11.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiv_27" id="footnote-xxiv_27"></a><a href="#anc_xxiv_27"><span class="label">[XXIV_27]</span></a> Apicius, vii 11.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiv_28" id="footnote-xxiv_28"></a><a href="#anc_xxiv_28"><span class="label">[XXIV_28]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiv_29" id="footnote-xxiv_29"></a><a href="#anc_xxiv_29"><span class="label">[XXIV_29]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiv_30" id="footnote-xxiv_30"></a><a href="#anc_xxiv_30"><span class="label">[XXIV_30]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiv_31" id="footnote-xxiv_31"></a><a href="#anc_xxiv_31"><span class="label">[XXIV_31]</span></a> Taillevant.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiv_32" id="footnote-xxiv_32"></a><a href="#anc_xxiv_32"><span class="label">[XXIV_32]</span></a> Id.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiv_33" id="footnote-xxiv_33"></a><a href="#anc_xxiv_33"><span class="label">[XXIV_33]</span></a> Id.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiv_34" id="footnote-xxiv_34"></a><a href="#anc_xxiv_34"><span class="label">[XXIV_34]</span></a> Plutarch. Vita. Coriolan.; Plin. xxxvii. cap. -ultimo.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiv_35" id="footnote-xxiv_35"></a><a href="#anc_xxiv_35"><span class="label">[XXIV_35]</span></a> Polydor. Virgil. v. 2; Nouvelles Ephémérides: 6 -Janvier.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiv_36" id="footnote-xxiv_36"></a><a href="#anc_xxiv_36"><span class="label">[XXIV_36]</span></a> Tertullian. De Idolol. c. 14; S. Cyprian. Epist. 103; -Concil. Trull. can. lxii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiv_37" id="footnote-xxiv_37"></a><a href="#anc_xxiv_37"><span class="label">[XXIV_37]</span></a> Brand’s Popul. Antiquit. vol. i. p. 132, 133.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiv_38" id="footnote-xxiv_38"></a><a href="#anc_xxiv_38"><span class="label">[XXIV_38]</span></a> Stuckius; Platina.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiv_39" id="footnote-xxiv_39"></a><a href="#anc_xxiv_39"><span class="label">[XXIV_39]</span></a> Fontanon, Ordonnances.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiv_40" id="footnote-xxiv_40"></a><a href="#anc_xxiv_40"><span class="label">[XXIV_40]</span></a> Delamarre.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiv_41" id="footnote-xxiv_41"></a><a href="#anc_xxiv_41"><span class="label">[XXIV_41]</span></a> Taillevant.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiv_42" id="footnote-xxiv_42"></a><a href="#anc_xxiv_42"><span class="label">[XXIV_42]</span></a> Id.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxiv_43" id="footnote-xxiv_43"></a><a href="#anc_xxiv_43"><span class="label">[XXIV_43]</span></a> Platina, De Honest Volupt.</p></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_435" id="page_435"></a>{435}</span></p> - -<p class="c">XXV.</p> - -<p class="c">WATER.</p> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxv_1" id="footnote-xxv_1"></a><a href="#anc_xxv_1"><span class="label">[XXV_1]</span></a> Aristot. Metaphys. i. 3; Senec. Nat. Quæst. iii. 13.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxv_2" id="footnote-xxv_2"></a><a href="#anc_xxv_2"><span class="label">[XXV_2]</span></a> Herodot.; Cyrill. adv. Jul.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxv_3" id="footnote-xxv_3"></a><a href="#anc_xxv_3"><span class="label">[XXV_3]</span></a> Strabo.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxv_4" id="footnote-xxv_4"></a><a href="#anc_xxv_4"><span class="label">[XXV_4]</span></a> Jul. Firmicus, De Profan. Relig.; Athanas. orat. -contra. Gent.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxv_5" id="footnote-xxv_5"></a><a href="#anc_xxv_5"><span class="label">[XXV_5]</span></a> Banier, Mythologie, tom. iv. p. 279.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxv_6" id="footnote-xxv_6"></a><a href="#anc_xxv_6"><span class="label">[XXV_6]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxv_7" id="footnote-xxv_7"></a><a href="#anc_xxv_7"><span class="label">[XXV_7]</span></a> Virgil. Æneid. viii. 72.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxv_8" id="footnote-xxv_8"></a><a href="#anc_xxv_8"><span class="label">[XXV_8]</span></a> Psalm. xciii. 4.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxv_9" id="footnote-xxv_9"></a><a href="#anc_xxv_9"><span class="label">[XXV_9]</span></a> Pausan.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxv_10" id="footnote-xxv_10"></a><a href="#anc_xxv_10"><span class="label">[XXV_10]</span></a> Tolosanus, In Syntag. Juris. i. 4; Sigonius, De -Republ. Athen. iv.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxv_11" id="footnote-xxv_11"></a><a href="#anc_xxv_11"><span class="label">[XXV_11]</span></a> Plato. De Legib. vi.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxv_12" id="footnote-xxv_12"></a><a href="#anc_xxv_12"><span class="label">[XXV_12]</span></a> 460 years <small>B.C.</small></p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxv_13" id="footnote-xxv_13"></a><a href="#anc_xxv_13"><span class="label">[XXV_13]</span></a> Plin. xxxi. 3.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxv_14" id="footnote-xxv_14"></a><a href="#anc_xxv_14"><span class="label">[XXV_14]</span></a> Frontin. De Aquæduct. i.; Lips. De Magnitud. Rom. -iii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxv_15" id="footnote-xxv_15"></a><a href="#anc_xxv_15"><span class="label">[XXV_15]</span></a> Eutrop. ii. 9.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxv_16" id="footnote-xxv_16"></a><a href="#anc_xxv_16"><span class="label">[XXV_16]</span></a> Plin. iii. 15; Cassiodor. vii. ep. 6.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxv_17" id="footnote-xxv_17"></a><a href="#anc_xxv_17"><span class="label">[XXV_17]</span></a> Plin. xxxi. 6.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxv_18" id="footnote-xxv_18"></a><a href="#anc_xxv_18"><span class="label">[XXV_18]</span></a> In Tit. Liv. i.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxv_19" id="footnote-xxv_19"></a><a href="#anc_xxv_19"><span class="label">[XXV_19]</span></a> Rosinus, Antiquit. Rom. p. 60.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxv_20" id="footnote-xxv_20"></a><a href="#anc_xxv_20"><span class="label">[XXV_20]</span></a> Frontin.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxv_21" id="footnote-xxv_21"></a><a href="#anc_xxv_21"><span class="label">[XXV_21]</span></a> Id.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxv_22" id="footnote-xxv_22"></a><a href="#anc_xxv_22"><span class="label">[XXV_22]</span></a> Sueton. In. Aug. cap. 13.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxv_23" id="footnote-xxv_23"></a><a href="#anc_xxv_23"><span class="label">[XXV_23]</span></a> Ingeniosa Sitis. Martial. xiv. 117.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxv_24" id="footnote-xxv_24"></a><a href="#anc_xxv_24"><span class="label">[XXV_24]</span></a> Senec. Nat Quæst. iv. 13.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxv_25" id="footnote-xxv_25"></a><a href="#anc_xxv_25"><span class="label">[XXV_25]</span></a> Ant. Marc. Salvin. in Lect. Acad. Furfur.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxv_26" id="footnote-xxv_26"></a><a href="#anc_xxv_26"><span class="label">[XXV_26]</span></a> Senec. loc. cit.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxv_27" id="footnote-xxv_27"></a><a href="#anc_xxv_27"><span class="label">[XXV_27]</span></a> Rosin. Ant. Rom. p. 403.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxv_28" id="footnote-xxv_28"></a><a href="#anc_xxv_28"><span class="label">[XXV_28]</span></a> Gell. xix. 5; Plin. xix. 4.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxv_29" id="footnote-xxv_29"></a><a href="#anc_xxv_29"><span class="label">[XXV_29]</span></a> Martial. xiv. 117.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxv_30" id="footnote-xxv_30"></a><a href="#anc_xxv_30"><span class="label">[XXV_30]</span></a> Montfaucon. Antiquit. Expliq.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxv_31" id="footnote-xxv_31"></a><a href="#anc_xxv_31"><span class="label">[XXV_31]</span></a> Sueton. In Domit. 21.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxv_32" id="footnote-xxv_32"></a><a href="#anc_xxv_32"><span class="label">[XXV_32]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxv_33" id="footnote-xxv_33"></a><a href="#anc_xxv_33"><span class="label">[XXV_33]</span></a> Martial. xii.; Juvenal. Sat. v. 60.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxv_34" id="footnote-xxv_34"></a><a href="#anc_xxv_34"><span class="label">[XXV_34]</span></a> Athen. i. ii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxv_35" id="footnote-xxv_35"></a><a href="#anc_xxv_35"><span class="label">[XXV_35]</span></a> Dio. In Claud.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxv_36" id="footnote-xxv_36"></a><a href="#anc_xxv_36"><span class="label">[XXV_36]</span></a> Antich. Ercolan.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxv_37" id="footnote-xxv_37"></a><a href="#anc_xxv_37"><span class="label">[XXV_37]</span></a> Hippocrat. De Diæt.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxv_38" id="footnote-xxv_38"></a><a href="#anc_xxv_38"><span class="label">[XXV_38]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxv_39" id="footnote-xxv_39"></a><a href="#anc_xxv_39"><span class="label">[XXV_39]</span></a> Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxv_40" id="footnote-xxv_40"></a><a href="#anc_xxv_40"><span class="label">[XXV_40]</span></a> Cels. iv. 19.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxv_41" id="footnote-xxv_41"></a><a href="#anc_xxv_41"><span class="label">[XXV_41]</span></a> Sueton. In August.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxv_42" id="footnote-xxv_42"></a><a href="#anc_xxv_42"><span class="label">[XXV_42]</span></a> Plin. xix. 1.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxv_43" id="footnote-xxv_43"></a><a href="#anc_xxv_43"><span class="label">[XXV_43]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxv_44" id="footnote-xxv_44"></a><a href="#anc_xxv_44"><span class="label">[XXV_44]</span></a> Mémoires du Sire de Joinville.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxv_45" id="footnote-xxv_45"></a><a href="#anc_xxv_45"><span class="label">[XXV_45]</span></a> Plin. xxi. 37.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxv_46" id="footnote-xxv_46"></a><a href="#anc_xxv_46"><span class="label">[XXV_46]</span></a> Bory St. Vincent, Essai sur les Iles Fortunées, pp. -220 et seqq.</p></div> - -<p class="c">XXVI.</p> - -<p class="c">BEVERAGES<br /> - -OF WHICH WATER IS THE FOUNDATION.</p> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvi_1" id="footnote-xxvi_1"></a><a href="#anc_xxvi_1"><span class="label">[XXVI_1]</span></a> Diodor. Sicul. iv.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvi_2" id="footnote-xxvi_2"></a><a href="#anc_xxvi_2"><span class="label">[XXVI_2]</span></a> Herodot. ii. 77.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvi_3" id="footnote-xxvi_3"></a><a href="#anc_xxvi_3"><span class="label">[XXVI_3]</span></a> Plin. xxii. 25; Columell. x. 116; Dioscorid. ii. 79, -&c.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvi_4" id="footnote-xxvi_4"></a><a href="#anc_xxvi_4"><span class="label">[XXVI_4]</span></a> Plin. loc. cit.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvi_5" id="footnote-xxvi_5"></a><a href="#anc_xxvi_5"><span class="label">[XXVI_5]</span></a> Paw.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvi_6" id="footnote-xxvi_6"></a><a href="#anc_xxvi_6"><span class="label">[XXVI_6]</span></a> Strab.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvi_7" id="footnote-xxvi_7"></a><a href="#anc_xxvi_7"><span class="label">[XXVI_7]</span></a> Plin.; Strab.; Paw.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvi_8" id="footnote-xxvi_8"></a><a href="#anc_xxvi_8"><span class="label">[XXVI_8]</span></a> Plin.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvi_9" id="footnote-xxvi_9"></a><a href="#anc_xxvi_9"><span class="label">[XXVI_9]</span></a> Aristot. De Ebrietate.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvi_10" id="footnote-xxvi_10"></a><a href="#anc_xxvi_10"><span class="label">[XXVI_10]</span></a> Eschyl. In Lycurgo.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvi_11" id="footnote-xxvi_11"></a><a href="#anc_xxvi_11"><span class="label">[XXVI_11]</span></a> Sophocl. In Triptolemo.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvi_12" id="footnote-xxvi_12"></a><a href="#anc_xxvi_12"><span class="label">[XXVI_12]</span></a> Antholog. Græc.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvi_13" id="footnote-xxvi_13"></a><a href="#anc_xxvi_13"><span class="label">[XXVI_13]</span></a> Plin. xxii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvi_14" id="footnote-xxvi_14"></a><a href="#anc_xxvi_14"><span class="label">[XXVI_14]</span></a> Meibom. De Cerevisia, 6, 7; In Thesaur. Gronovii, -tom. ix.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvi_15" id="footnote-xxvi_15"></a><a href="#anc_xxvi_15"><span class="label">[XXVI_15]</span></a> Tacit. De Morib. German. c. 23; Plin. xiv. 22.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvi_16" id="footnote-xxvi_16"></a><a href="#anc_xxvi_16"><span class="label">[XXVI_16]</span></a> Plin. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvi_17" id="footnote-xxvi_17"></a><a href="#anc_xxvi_17"><span class="label">[XXVI_17]</span></a> Dioscorid. ii. 80, 81.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvi_18" id="footnote-xxvi_18"></a><a href="#anc_xxvi_18"><span class="label">[XXVI_18]</span></a> Mallet, Northern Antiquities, 6.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvi_19" id="footnote-xxvi_19"></a><a href="#anc_xxvi_19"><span class="label">[XXVI_19]</span></a> Cæsar. De Bell. Gall.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvi_20" id="footnote-xxvi_20"></a><a href="#anc_xxvi_20"><span class="label">[XXVI_20]</span></a> British Cyclopedia.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvi_21" id="footnote-xxvi_21"></a><a href="#anc_xxvi_21"><span class="label">[XXVI_21]</span></a> Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvi_22" id="footnote-xxvi_22"></a><a href="#anc_xxvi_22"><span class="label">[XXVI_22]</span></a> Beckmann. Invent. tom. iv.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvi_23" id="footnote-xxvi_23"></a><a href="#anc_xxvi_23"><span class="label">[XXVI_23]</span></a> Vol. xv. p. 201, Edinburgh, 1795.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvi_24" id="footnote-xxvi_24"></a><a href="#anc_xxvi_24"><span class="label">[XXVI_24]</span></a> From a Manuscript, quoted by Strutt, Manners, &c. -vol., iii. pp. 72, 73.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvi_25" id="footnote-xxvi_25"></a><a href="#anc_xxvi_25"><span class="label">[XXVI_25]</span></a> Stow’s Chronicles, p. 218.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvi_26" id="footnote-xxvi_26"></a><a href="#anc_xxvi_26"><span class="label">[XXVI_26]</span></a> Holinshed, Descript. Brit. 94.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvi_27" id="footnote-xxvi_27"></a><a href="#anc_xxvi_27"><span class="label">[XXVI_27]</span></a> Monteil, Histoire des Français, tom. ii. pp. 49, 50.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvi_28" id="footnote-xxvi_28"></a><a href="#anc_xxvi_28"><span class="label">[XXVI_28]</span></a> Plin.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvi_29" id="footnote-xxvi_29"></a><a href="#anc_xxvi_29"><span class="label">[XXVI_29]</span></a> Hippocrat. De Dentitione; Cels. iii. 7.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvi_30" id="footnote-xxvi_30"></a><a href="#anc_xxvi_30"><span class="label">[XXVI_30]</span></a> Mercurial. Observ. iii.; Cœlius, xxx. 21.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvi_31" id="footnote-xxvi_31"></a><a href="#anc_xxvi_31"><span class="label">[XXVI_31]</span></a> Spartian. In Hadrian.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvi_32" id="footnote-xxvi_32"></a><a href="#anc_xxvi_32"><span class="label">[XXVI_32]</span></a> Plin. xiv.; Q. Curt. lib. xxiii. Hort. c. 16, ex -Palladio.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvi_33" id="footnote-xxvi_33"></a><a href="#anc_xxvi_33"><span class="label">[XXVI_33]</span></a> Dictionnaire des Origines.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvi_34" id="footnote-xxvi_34"></a><a href="#anc_xxvi_34"><span class="label">[XXVI_34]</span></a> Plin. xiv. 16.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvi_35" id="footnote-xxvi_35"></a><a href="#anc_xxvi_35"><span class="label">[XXVI_35]</span></a> Deuteron. xiv. 26; xxix. 6; et Bibl. Sacr. passim; -Ambrosius, De Helia et Jejun. c. 15; Hieron. ad Nepotian.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvi_36" id="footnote-xxvi_36"></a><a href="#anc_xxvi_36"><span class="label">[XXVI_36]</span></a> Plin. xiv. 17.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvi_37" id="footnote-xxvi_37"></a><a href="#anc_xxvi_37"><span class="label">[XXVI_37]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvi_38" id="footnote-xxvi_38"></a><a href="#anc_xxvi_38"><span class="label">[XXVI_38]</span></a> Isidor. xx. 3.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvi_39" id="footnote-xxvi_39"></a><a href="#anc_xxvi_39"><span class="label">[XXVI_39]</span></a> Id.; Paul. Æginet.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvi_40" id="footnote-xxvi_40"></a><a href="#anc_xxvi_40"><span class="label">[XXVI_40]</span></a> Paul. Æginet.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvi_41" id="footnote-xxvi_41"></a><a href="#anc_xxvi_41"><span class="label">[XXVI_41]</span></a> Dioscorid. v. 22; Pallad. August. 13.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvi_42" id="footnote-xxvi_42"></a><a href="#anc_xxvi_42"><span class="label">[XXVI_42]</span></a> Columell. xii. 37; Pallad. xiii. 2.</p></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_436" id="page_436"></a>{436}</span></p> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvi_43" id="footnote-xxvi_43"></a><a href="#anc_xxvi_43"><span class="label">[XXVI_43]</span></a> Discorid. v. 34; Plin. xiv. 16.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvi_44" id="footnote-xxvi_44"></a><a href="#anc_xxvi_44"><span class="label">[XXVI_44]</span></a> Plin. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvi_45" id="footnote-xxvi_45"></a><a href="#anc_xxvi_45"><span class="label">[XXVI_45]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvi_46" id="footnote-xxvi_46"></a><a href="#anc_xxvi_46"><span class="label">[XXVI_46]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvi_47" id="footnote-xxvi_47"></a><a href="#anc_xxvi_47"><span class="label">[XXVI_47]</span></a> Cœl. Rhodig. vii. 26; xxi. 7.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvi_48" id="footnote-xxvi_48"></a><a href="#anc_xxvi_48"><span class="label">[XXVI_48]</span></a> Sueton. In Neron. c. 48.</p></div> - -<p class="c">XXVII.</p> - -<p class="c">DRINKING CUPS.</p> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvii_1" id="footnote-xxvii_1"></a><a href="#anc_xxvii_1"><span class="label">[XXVII_1]</span></a> Clem. Alexandr. Pædagog, ii. 2.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvii_2" id="footnote-xxvii_2"></a><a href="#anc_xxvii_2"><span class="label">[XXVII_2]</span></a> Homer.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvii_3" id="footnote-xxvii_3"></a><a href="#anc_xxvii_3"><span class="label">[XXVII_3]</span></a> Eumen. Cardian. et Diodot. Erythræus, In Diariis -Rerum ab Alexandroe Gestarum.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvii_4" id="footnote-xxvii_4"></a><a href="#anc_xxvii_4"><span class="label">[XXVII_4]</span></a> Theopomp. Hist. 26.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvii_5" id="footnote-xxvii_5"></a><a href="#anc_xxvii_5"><span class="label">[XXVII_5]</span></a> Aristot. In Syracusan. Polit.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvii_6" id="footnote-xxvii_6"></a><a href="#anc_xxvii_6"><span class="label">[XXVII_6]</span></a> Sueton. In Tiber. 42.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvii_7" id="footnote-xxvii_7"></a><a href="#anc_xxvii_7"><span class="label">[XXVII_7]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvii_8" id="footnote-xxvii_8"></a><a href="#anc_xxvii_8"><span class="label">[XXVII_8]</span></a> Athen. i. 30.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvii_9" id="footnote-xxvii_9"></a><a href="#anc_xxvii_9"><span class="label">[XXVII_9]</span></a> Homer. Odyss.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvii_10" id="footnote-xxvii_10"></a><a href="#anc_xxvii_10"><span class="label">[XXVII_10]</span></a> Hippocrat. De Diœt. iii. sub. fin.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvii_11" id="footnote-xxvii_11"></a><a href="#anc_xxvii_11"><span class="label">[XXVII_11]</span></a> Senec. De Tranquillitate Animæ, sub fin.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvii_12" id="footnote-xxvii_12"></a><a href="#anc_xxvii_12"><span class="label">[XXVII_12]</span></a> Plat. De Republ. ii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvii_13" id="footnote-xxvii_13"></a><a href="#anc_xxvii_13"><span class="label">[XXVII_13]</span></a> Athen. i. 21, 23.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvii_14" id="footnote-xxvii_14"></a><a href="#anc_xxvii_14"><span class="label">[XXVII_14]</span></a> Id. xi. 14.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvii_15" id="footnote-xxvii_15"></a><a href="#anc_xxvii_15"><span class="label">[XXVII_15]</span></a> Musonius, De Luxu Græcor. c. 2.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvii_16" id="footnote-xxvii_16"></a><a href="#anc_xxvii_16"><span class="label">[XXVII_16]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvii_17" id="footnote-xxvii_17"></a><a href="#anc_xxvii_17"><span class="label">[XXVII_17]</span></a> Strab.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvii_18" id="footnote-xxvii_18"></a><a href="#anc_xxvii_18"><span class="label">[XXVII_18]</span></a> Cæsar.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvii_19" id="footnote-xxvii_19"></a><a href="#anc_xxvii_19"><span class="label">[XXVII_19]</span></a> Id.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvii_20" id="footnote-xxvii_20"></a><a href="#anc_xxvii_20"><span class="label">[XXVII_20]</span></a> Valer. iv. 3; Senec. Epist. 95.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvii_21" id="footnote-xxvii_21"></a><a href="#anc_xxvii_21"><span class="label">[XXVII_21]</span></a> Ovid. Fast. iii.; Tibull. i. 10.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvii_22" id="footnote-xxvii_22"></a><a href="#anc_xxvii_22"><span class="label">[XXVII_22]</span></a> Plin. xvi. 35.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvii_23" id="footnote-xxvii_23"></a><a href="#anc_xxvii_23"><span class="label">[XXVII_23]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvii_24" id="footnote-xxvii_24"></a><a href="#anc_xxvii_24"><span class="label">[XXVII_24]</span></a> Apul. Milesiar. ii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvii_25" id="footnote-xxvii_25"></a><a href="#anc_xxvii_25"><span class="label">[XXVII_25]</span></a> Plin. xxxvi. 26.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvii_26" id="footnote-xxvii_26"></a><a href="#anc_xxvii_26"><span class="label">[XXVII_26]</span></a> Cœl. Rhodig. Antiq. Lection. xx. 30; Crinitus. -Honest. Disciplin. xxiii. 4; Douza. Comment. In Petron.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvii_27" id="footnote-xxvii_27"></a><a href="#anc_xxvii_27"><span class="label">[XXVII_27]</span></a> Petron. à Nodot. tom. 1. pp. 198, 200.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvii_28" id="footnote-xxvii_28"></a><a href="#anc_xxvii_28"><span class="label">[XXVII_28]</span></a> Plin. Præfat. ad libr. xxxiii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvii_29" id="footnote-xxvii_29"></a><a href="#anc_xxvii_29"><span class="label">[XXVII_29]</span></a> Rosin. Antiq. Roman. p. 398.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvii_30" id="footnote-xxvii_30"></a><a href="#anc_xxvii_30"><span class="label">[XXVII_30]</span></a> 61 years <small>B.C.</small></p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvii_31" id="footnote-xxvii_31"></a><a href="#anc_xxvii_31"><span class="label">[XXVII_31]</span></a> Plin. xxxvii. 2.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvii_32" id="footnote-xxvii_32"></a><a href="#anc_xxvii_32"><span class="label">[XXVII_32]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvii_33" id="footnote-xxvii_33"></a><a href="#anc_xxvii_33"><span class="label">[XXVII_33]</span></a> Martial. xiv. 113.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvii_34" id="footnote-xxvii_34"></a><a href="#anc_xxvii_34"><span class="label">[XXVII_34]</span></a> Scaliger. Exercitat. 92.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvii_35" id="footnote-xxvii_35"></a><a href="#anc_xxvii_35"><span class="label">[XXVII_35]</span></a> Cardan. De Subtilit. v. f. 143.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvii_36" id="footnote-xxvii_36"></a><a href="#anc_xxvii_36"><span class="label">[XXVII_36]</span></a> Mme. Dacier, Eutrop. Delphin. p. 104.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvii_37" id="footnote-xxvii_37"></a><a href="#anc_xxvii_37"><span class="label">[XXVII_37]</span></a> Mariette; Caylus, &c.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvii_38" id="footnote-xxvii_38"></a><a href="#anc_xxvii_38"><span class="label">[XXVII_38]</span></a> Propert. lib. 4, eleg. 5.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvii_39" id="footnote-xxvii_39"></a><a href="#anc_xxvii_39"><span class="label">[XXVII_39]</span></a> Christius, De Murrinis, &c. Lips. 1743.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvii_40" id="footnote-xxvii_40"></a><a href="#anc_xxvii_40"><span class="label">[XXVII_40]</span></a> Mongez.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvii_41" id="footnote-xxvii_41"></a><a href="#anc_xxvii_41"><span class="label">[XXVII_41]</span></a> Montfaucon, Antiquit. Expliq. tom. ii. pl. 78</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvii_42" id="footnote-xxvii_42"></a><a href="#anc_xxvii_42"><span class="label">[XXVII_42]</span></a> Apuleius; Sidon. Apollinar. carni. 24 in fine.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvii_43" id="footnote-xxvii_43"></a><a href="#anc_xxvii_43"><span class="label">[XXVII_43]</span></a> Martial, viii. 51.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvii_44" id="footnote-xxvii_44"></a><a href="#anc_xxvii_44"><span class="label">[XXVII_44]</span></a> Plin. xxxiii. 12.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvii_45" id="footnote-xxvii_45"></a><a href="#anc_xxvii_45"><span class="label">[XXVII_45]</span></a> Id. Præfat. ad lib. xxxiii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvii_46" id="footnote-xxvii_46"></a><a href="#anc_xxvii_46"><span class="label">[XXVII_46]</span></a> Athen. xi.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxvii_47" id="footnote-xxvii_47"></a><a href="#anc_xxvii_47"><span class="label">[XXVII_47]</span></a> Montfaucon. Antiq. Expliq.</p></div> - -<p class="c">XXVIII.</p> - -<p class="c">WINE.</p> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_1" id="footnote-xxviii_1"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_1"><span class="label">[XXVIII_1]</span></a> Herod. ii.; Plutarch. De Isid. et Osirid. Diodor. -iii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_2" id="footnote-xxviii_2"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_2"><span class="label">[XXVIII_2]</span></a> Cic. De Natur. Deor. iii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_3" id="footnote-xxviii_3"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_3"><span class="label">[XXVIII_3]</span></a> Theopomp.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_4" id="footnote-xxviii_4"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_4"><span class="label">[XXVIII_4]</span></a> Plutarch.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_5" id="footnote-xxviii_5"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_5"><span class="label">[XXVIII_5]</span></a> Aurel. Victor.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_6" id="footnote-xxviii_6"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_6"><span class="label">[XXVIII_6]</span></a> Eutrop. ix. 17.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_7" id="footnote-xxviii_7"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_7"><span class="label">[XXVIII_7]</span></a> Genes, ix. 20.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_8" id="footnote-xxviii_8"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_8"><span class="label">[XXVIII_8]</span></a> Plin. xiv.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_9" id="footnote-xxviii_9"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_9"><span class="label">[XXVIII_9]</span></a> Deuteron. xxii. 9.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_10" id="footnote-xxviii_10"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_10"><span class="label">[XXVIII_10]</span></a> Ib. xxii. 6.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_11" id="footnote-xxviii_11"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_11"><span class="label">[XXVIII_11]</span></a> Osee. xiv. 8.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_12" id="footnote-xxviii_12"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_12"><span class="label">[XXVIII_12]</span></a> Ezech. xxvii. 18.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_13" id="footnote-xxviii_13"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_13"><span class="label">[XXVIII_13]</span></a> Genes, xlix. 11; Jerem. ii. 21.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_14" id="footnote-xxviii_14"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_14"><span class="label">[XXVIII_14]</span></a> Psalm ciii. 15.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_15" id="footnote-xxviii_15"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_15"><span class="label">[XXVIII_15]</span></a> Calmet. Commentaire sur Esther. v. 6.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_16" id="footnote-xxviii_16"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_16"><span class="label">[XXVIII_16]</span></a> Cantic. viii. 2.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_17" id="footnote-xxviii_17"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_17"><span class="label">[XXVIII_17]</span></a> Herodot. i.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_18" id="footnote-xxviii_18"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_18"><span class="label">[XXVIII_18]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_19" id="footnote-xxviii_19"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_19"><span class="label">[XXVIII_19]</span></a> Banier, Mythologie, tom. i. p. 464.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_20" id="footnote-xxviii_20"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_20"><span class="label">[XXVIII_20]</span></a> Plutarch. De Isid. et Osirid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_21" id="footnote-xxviii_21"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_21"><span class="label">[XXVIII_21]</span></a> Athen. xv.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_22" id="footnote-xxviii_22"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_22"><span class="label">[XXVIII_22]</span></a> Tit. Liv.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_23" id="footnote-xxviii_23"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_23"><span class="label">[XXVIII_23]</span></a> Horat. Epist. lib. ii. ad Torquat.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_24" id="footnote-xxviii_24"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_24"><span class="label">[XXVIII_24]</span></a> Serenus Sammonicus.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_25" id="footnote-xxviii_25"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_25"><span class="label">[XXVIII_25]</span></a> Euseb. In Chron.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_26" id="footnote-xxviii_26"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_26"><span class="label">[XXVIII_26]</span></a> Plin. vii. 56.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_27" id="footnote-xxviii_27"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_27"><span class="label">[XXVIII_27]</span></a> Diodor. Sicul. v.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_28" id="footnote-xxviii_28"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_28"><span class="label">[XXVIII_28]</span></a> Plutarch. De Legend Poet.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_29" id="footnote-xxviii_29"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_29"><span class="label">[XXVIII_29]</span></a> Plutarch. Sympos. iii. 10.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_30" id="footnote-xxviii_30"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_30"><span class="label">[XXVIII_30]</span></a> Hippocrat. De Diætet.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_31" id="footnote-xxviii_31"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_31"><span class="label">[XXVIII_31]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_32" id="footnote-xxviii_32"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_32"><span class="label">[XXVIII_32]</span></a> Herodot. iv.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_33" id="footnote-xxviii_33"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_33"><span class="label">[XXVIII_33]</span></a> Martial. viii. 26.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_34" id="footnote-xxviii_34"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_34"><span class="label">[XXVIII_34]</span></a> Horat. Od. ii. 11, 17.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_35" id="footnote-xxviii_35"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_35"><span class="label">[XXVIII_35]</span></a> S. Augustin. De Civ. Dei. xviii. 13.</p></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_437" id="page_437"></a>{437}</span></p> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_36" id="footnote-xxviii_36"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_36"><span class="label">[XXVIII_36]</span></a> Ovid. Fast. iv. 861, et seqq.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_37" id="footnote-xxviii_37"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_37"><span class="label">[XXVIII_37]</span></a> Plin. xviii. 19.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_38" id="footnote-xxviii_38"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_38"><span class="label">[XXVIII_38]</span></a> Banier, Mythol. tom. i. p. 548.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_39" id="footnote-xxviii_39"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_39"><span class="label">[XXVIII_39]</span></a> Columell. xi. 2; iv. 28.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_40" id="footnote-xxviii_40"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_40"><span class="label">[XXVIII_40]</span></a> Leg. Duod. Tabul. L. lxii.; Plin. xviii. 3.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_41" id="footnote-xxviii_41"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_41"><span class="label">[XXVIII_41]</span></a> Ulpian.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_42" id="footnote-xxviii_42"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_42"><span class="label">[XXVIII_42]</span></a> Apicius, i. 17.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_43" id="footnote-xxviii_43"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_43"><span class="label">[XXVIII_43]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_44" id="footnote-xxviii_44"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_44"><span class="label">[XXVIII_44]</span></a> Geoponic. vi. 11.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_45" id="footnote-xxviii_45"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_45"><span class="label">[XXVIII_45]</span></a> Ib.; Virgil. Georg. ii. 241.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_46" id="footnote-xxviii_46"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_46"><span class="label">[XXVIII_46]</span></a> Georg. ii. 7.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_47" id="footnote-xxviii_47"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_47"><span class="label">[XXVIII_47]</span></a> Athen. v.; Anacr. Od. xvii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_48" id="footnote-xxviii_48"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_48"><span class="label">[XXVIII_48]</span></a> Columell. xii. 41.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_49" id="footnote-xxviii_49"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_49"><span class="label">[XXVIII_49]</span></a> Plin. xiv. 11; Athen. i.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_50" id="footnote-xxviii_50"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_50"><span class="label">[XXVIII_50]</span></a> Vitruv. xi. 9.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_51" id="footnote-xxviii_51"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_51"><span class="label">[XXVIII_51]</span></a> Longus. ii. 1, 2.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_52" id="footnote-xxviii_52"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_52"><span class="label">[XXVIII_52]</span></a> Cato. R. R. 12, 13, 18; Vitruv. vi. 6.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_53" id="footnote-xxviii_53"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_53"><span class="label">[XXVIII_53]</span></a> Le Pitture Antiche d’Ercolano, Napoli, 1757, tom. -i; Tavola, 35.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_54" id="footnote-xxviii_54"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_54"><span class="label">[XXVIII_54]</span></a> Varro. i. 54; Cato. 23.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_55" id="footnote-xxviii_55"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_55"><span class="label">[XXVIII_55]</span></a> Cic. De Clar. Orat. c. 83.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_56" id="footnote-xxviii_56"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_56"><span class="label">[XXVIII_56]</span></a> Nonnius, xvii. 13.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_57" id="footnote-xxviii_57"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_57"><span class="label">[XXVIII_57]</span></a> Geoponic. vi. 15.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_58" id="footnote-xxviii_58"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_58"><span class="label">[XXVIII_58]</span></a> Le Pitture, &c. loc. cit.; Athen. i. 31; Dioscor. -v. 9.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_59" id="footnote-xxviii_59"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_59"><span class="label">[XXVIII_59]</span></a> Pallad. xi. 18.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_60" id="footnote-xxviii_60"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_60"><span class="label">[XXVIII_60]</span></a> Plin. xiv. 9.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_61" id="footnote-xxviii_61"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_61"><span class="label">[XXVIII_61]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_62" id="footnote-xxviii_62"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_62"><span class="label">[XXVIII_62]</span></a> Ib. ix. 57.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_63" id="footnote-xxviii_63"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_63"><span class="label">[XXVIII_63]</span></a> Id. xviii. 74.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_64" id="footnote-xxviii_64"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_64"><span class="label">[XXVIII_64]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_65" id="footnote-xxviii_65"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_65"><span class="label">[XXVIII_65]</span></a> Ovid. Fast. iv. 782; Festus, Burranica.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_66" id="footnote-xxviii_66"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_66"><span class="label">[XXVIII_66]</span></a> Geoponic. vi. 16; Plutarch. Quæst. Nat. 26; Plin. -xiv. 11.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_67" id="footnote-xxviii_67"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_67"><span class="label">[XXVIII_67]</span></a> Geoponic. vi. 12.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_68" id="footnote-xxviii_68"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_68"><span class="label">[XXVIII_68]</span></a> Varro. R. R. i. 13; Geoponic. vi. 2, 12.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_69" id="footnote-xxviii_69"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_69"><span class="label">[XXVIII_69]</span></a> Le Pitture, &c.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_70" id="footnote-xxviii_70"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_70"><span class="label">[XXVIII_70]</span></a> Antiq. de Pomp.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_71" id="footnote-xxviii_71"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_71"><span class="label">[XXVIII_71]</span></a> Sponii, Miscell. Erud. Antiq. p. 125.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_72" id="footnote-xxviii_72"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_72"><span class="label">[XXVIII_72]</span></a> Id. Ib.; Juvenal, xiv. 311.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_73" id="footnote-xxviii_73"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_73"><span class="label">[XXVIII_73]</span></a> Plin. xiv. 21.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_74" id="footnote-xxviii_74"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_74"><span class="label">[XXVIII_74]</span></a> Geoponic. vi. 2; Varro. R. R. i. 13; Cato. R. R. -23.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_75" id="footnote-xxviii_75"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_75"><span class="label">[XXVIII_75]</span></a> Columell. xii. 25, 80; Cato. 107; Varro. i. 65; -Geoponic. iv. 12.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_76" id="footnote-xxviii_76"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_76"><span class="label">[XXVIII_76]</span></a> Id.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_77" id="footnote-xxviii_77"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_77"><span class="label">[XXVIII_77]</span></a> Id.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_78" id="footnote-xxviii_78"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_78"><span class="label">[XXVIII_78]</span></a> Geoponic. vii. 15; Columell. xii. 38.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_79" id="footnote-xxviii_79"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_79"><span class="label">[XXVIII_79]</span></a> Geoponic. vii. 22.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_80" id="footnote-xxviii_80"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_80"><span class="label">[XXVIII_80]</span></a> Ib. vii. 37.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_81" id="footnote-xxviii_81"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_81"><span class="label">[XXVIII_81]</span></a> Pollux, vi. 19; x. 75.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_82" id="footnote-xxviii_82"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_82"><span class="label">[XXVIII_82]</span></a> Geoponic. vii. 5, 6.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_83" id="footnote-xxviii_83"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_83"><span class="label">[XXVIII_83]</span></a> Horat. Art. Poet. v. 21.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_84" id="footnote-xxviii_84"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_84"><span class="label">[XXVIII_84]</span></a> Id. Od. i. 20.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_85" id="footnote-xxviii_85"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_85"><span class="label">[XXVIII_85]</span></a> Petron. 34.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_86" id="footnote-xxviii_86"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_86"><span class="label">[XXVIII_86]</span></a> Senec. Epist. 115; Columell. xii. 41.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_87" id="footnote-xxviii_87"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_87"><span class="label">[XXVIII_87]</span></a> Columell. i. 6; Horat. Od. iii. 8.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_88" id="footnote-xxviii_88"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_88"><span class="label">[XXVIII_88]</span></a> Plin. xiv. 4.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_89" id="footnote-xxviii_89"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_89"><span class="label">[XXVIII_89]</span></a> Id. xiv. 6, 29.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_90" id="footnote-xxviii_90"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_90"><span class="label">[XXVIII_90]</span></a> Id. xiv. 13.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_91" id="footnote-xxviii_91"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_91"><span class="label">[XXVIII_91]</span></a> Virgil. Georgic, ii. 91.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_92" id="footnote-xxviii_92"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_92"><span class="label">[XXVIII_92]</span></a> Horat. Epod. ix. 34.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_93" id="footnote-xxviii_93"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_93"><span class="label">[XXVIII_93]</span></a> Id. Sat. i. 10, 24.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_94" id="footnote-xxviii_94"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_94"><span class="label">[XXVIII_94]</span></a> Geopon. passim.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_95" id="footnote-xxviii_95"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_95"><span class="label">[XXVIII_95]</span></a> Plin. xiv. 6.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_96" id="footnote-xxviii_96"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_96"><span class="label">[XXVIII_96]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_97" id="footnote-xxviii_97"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_97"><span class="label">[XXVIII_97]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_98" id="footnote-xxviii_98"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_98"><span class="label">[XXVIII_98]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_99" id="footnote-xxviii_99"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_99"><span class="label">[XXVIII_99]</span></a> Id. xiv. et xxiii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_100" id="footnote-xxviii_100"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_100"><span class="label">[XXVIII_100]</span></a> Athen. i. et ix.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_101" id="footnote-xxviii_101"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_101"><span class="label">[XXVIII_101]</span></a> Aristot.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_102" id="footnote-xxviii_102"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_102"><span class="label">[XXVIII_102]</span></a> Galen.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_103" id="footnote-xxviii_103"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_103"><span class="label">[XXVIII_103]</span></a> Petron. c. 34.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_104" id="footnote-xxviii_104"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_104"><span class="label">[XXVIII_104]</span></a> Plin. xiv. 4.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_105" id="footnote-xxviii_105"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_105"><span class="label">[XXVIII_105]</span></a> Martial, xi. 60.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_106" id="footnote-xxviii_106"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_106"><span class="label">[XXVIII_106]</span></a> Apul. Milesiar. ii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_107" id="footnote-xxviii_107"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_107"><span class="label">[XXVIII_107]</span></a> Senec. Epist. 64.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_108" id="footnote-xxviii_108"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_108"><span class="label">[XXVIII_108]</span></a> Lucan. Pharsal. x. 164.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_109" id="footnote-xxviii_109"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_109"><span class="label">[XXVIII_109]</span></a> Athen. i. 47.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_110" id="footnote-xxviii_110"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_110"><span class="label">[XXVIII_110]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_111" id="footnote-xxviii_111"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_111"><span class="label">[XXVIII_111]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_112" id="footnote-xxviii_112"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_112"><span class="label">[XXVIII_112]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_113" id="footnote-xxviii_113"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_113"><span class="label">[XXVIII_113]</span></a> Apicius, i. 6.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_114" id="footnote-xxviii_114"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_114"><span class="label">[XXVIII_114]</span></a> Athen. i.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_115" id="footnote-xxviii_115"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_115"><span class="label">[XXVIII_115]</span></a> Plin. xiv.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_116" id="footnote-xxviii_116"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_116"><span class="label">[XXVIII_116]</span></a> Cato. R. R.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_117" id="footnote-xxviii_117"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_117"><span class="label">[XXVIII_117]</span></a> Plin. xiv. 8.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_118" id="footnote-xxviii_118"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_118"><span class="label">[XXVIII_118]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_119" id="footnote-xxviii_119"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_119"><span class="label">[XXVIII_119]</span></a> Museum Borbonicum. tom. iii.; Ta. vol. 28.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_120" id="footnote-xxviii_120"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_120"><span class="label">[XXVIII_120]</span></a> Plin. xiv. 9.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_121" id="footnote-xxviii_121"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_121"><span class="label">[XXVIII_121]</span></a> Varro. De Vitâ Pop. Rom.; Columell. R. R.; -Martial, xiii. 106; Juvenal. xiv. 270.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_122" id="footnote-xxviii_122"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_122"><span class="label">[XXVIII_122]</span></a> Columell. xii. 27.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_123" id="footnote-xxviii_123"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_123"><span class="label">[XXVIII_123]</span></a> Dio. Commod.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_124" id="footnote-xxviii_124"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_124"><span class="label">[XXVIII_124]</span></a> Macrob. vii. 12; Plin. xxii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_125" id="footnote-xxviii_125"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_125"><span class="label">[XXVIII_125]</span></a> Leclerc, Histoire de la p. 479.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_126" id="footnote-xxviii_126"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_126"><span class="label">[XXVIII_126]</span></a> Geoponic. viii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_127" id="footnote-xxviii_127"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_127"><span class="label">[XXVIII_127]</span></a> Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_128" id="footnote-xxviii_128"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_128"><span class="label">[XXVIII_128]</span></a> Apicius, i. 4.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_129" id="footnote-xxviii_129"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_129"><span class="label">[XXVIII_129]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_130" id="footnote-xxviii_130"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_130"><span class="label">[XXVIII_130]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_131" id="footnote-xxviii_131"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_131"><span class="label">[XXVIII_131]</span></a> Plin. xiv. 13.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_132" id="footnote-xxviii_132"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_132"><span class="label">[XXVIII_132]</span></a> Ercolano.</p></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_438" id="page_438"></a>{438}</span></p> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_133" id="footnote-xxviii_133"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_133"><span class="label">[XXVIII_133]</span></a> Plin. xxiii. 1.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_134" id="footnote-xxviii_134"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_134"><span class="label">[XXVIII_134]</span></a> Columell. iii. 3.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_135" id="footnote-xxviii_135"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_135"><span class="label">[XXVIII_135]</span></a> Bockh, Public Economy of Athens, vol i. p. 133.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_136" id="footnote-xxviii_136"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_136"><span class="label">[XXVIII_136]</span></a> Valer. Max. ii. 1.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_137" id="footnote-xxviii_137"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_137"><span class="label">[XXVIII_137]</span></a> Plin. xiv. 13.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_138" id="footnote-xxviii_138"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_138"><span class="label">[XXVIII_138]</span></a> Fab. Pictor. apud Plin. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_139" id="footnote-xxviii_139"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_139"><span class="label">[XXVIII_139]</span></a> Plin. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_140" id="footnote-xxviii_140"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_140"><span class="label">[XXVIII_140]</span></a> Id. xiv. 6.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_141" id="footnote-xxviii_141"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_141"><span class="label">[XXVIII_141]</span></a> Id. xiv. 28.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_142" id="footnote-xxviii_142"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_142"><span class="label">[XXVIII_142]</span></a> Athen. v.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_143" id="footnote-xxviii_143"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_143"><span class="label">[XXVIII_143]</span></a> Dio. Trajan.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_144" id="footnote-xxviii_144"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_144"><span class="label">[XXVIII_144]</span></a> Id. In Sever.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_145" id="footnote-xxviii_145"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_145"><span class="label">[XXVIII_145]</span></a> Sueton. In Claud.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_146" id="footnote-xxviii_146"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_146"><span class="label">[XXVIII_146]</span></a> Dio. Domitian.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_147" id="footnote-xxviii_147"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_147"><span class="label">[XXVIII_147]</span></a> Id. In Caligul.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_148" id="footnote-xxviii_148"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_148"><span class="label">[XXVIII_148]</span></a> Athen. i. 47.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_149" id="footnote-xxviii_149"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_149"><span class="label">[XXVIII_149]</span></a> Tibull. iii. eleg. 6; Martial, v. 65.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_150" id="footnote-xxviii_150"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_150"><span class="label">[XXVIII_150]</span></a> Athen. i. 48.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_151" id="footnote-xxviii_151"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_151"><span class="label">[XXVIII_151]</span></a> Plin. xiv. 16.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_152" id="footnote-xxviii_152"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_152"><span class="label">[XXVIII_152]</span></a> Plutarch. Sympos. viii. 6.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_153" id="footnote-xxviii_153"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_153"><span class="label">[XXVIII_153]</span></a> Festus.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_154" id="footnote-xxviii_154"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_154"><span class="label">[XXVIII_154]</span></a> Plin. loc. cit.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_155" id="footnote-xxviii_155"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_155"><span class="label">[XXVIII_155]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_156" id="footnote-xxviii_156"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_156"><span class="label">[XXVIII_156]</span></a> Id. Ib. Columell. xii. 35.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_157" id="footnote-xxviii_157"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_157"><span class="label">[XXVIII_157]</span></a> Plin. loc cit.; Columell. xii. 37.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_158" id="footnote-xxviii_158"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_158"><span class="label">[XXVIII_158]</span></a> Dioscorid. v. 13; Plin. loc. cit.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_159" id="footnote-xxviii_159"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_159"><span class="label">[XXVIII_159]</span></a> Meursius.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_160" id="footnote-xxviii_160"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_160"><span class="label">[XXVIII_160]</span></a> Plin. loc. cit.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_161" id="footnote-xxviii_161"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_161"><span class="label">[XXVIII_161]</span></a> Strutt, Manners and Customs of the Ancient -Britons, vol. 1. p. 7.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_162" id="footnote-xxviii_162"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_162"><span class="label">[XXVIII_162]</span></a> W. Malmsbur. De Pont. lib. iv.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_163" id="footnote-xxviii_163"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_163"><span class="label">[XXVIII_163]</span></a> Delamarre, Traité de la Police.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_164" id="footnote-xxviii_164"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_164"><span class="label">[XXVIII_164]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_165" id="footnote-xxviii_165"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_165"><span class="label">[XXVIII_165]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_166" id="footnote-xxviii_166"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_166"><span class="label">[XXVIII_166]</span></a> Mélanges Tirés d’une Grande Bibliothèque.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_167" id="footnote-xxviii_167"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_167"><span class="label">[XXVIII_167]</span></a> Ménage.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_168" id="footnote-xxviii_168"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_168"><span class="label">[XXVIII_168]</span></a> Arnaud de Villeneuve; Traité du Régime de la -Santé.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_169" id="footnote-xxviii_169"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_169"><span class="label">[XXVIII_169]</span></a> Les Bigarrures du Seigneur des Accords.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_170" id="footnote-xxviii_170"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_170"><span class="label">[XXVIII_170]</span></a> Baluze. Capitul. Reg. Franc. passim.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_171" id="footnote-xxviii_171"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_171"><span class="label">[XXVIII_171]</span></a> Fontanon. Conf. des Ordon. tom. ii. p. 822.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_172" id="footnote-xxviii_172"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_172"><span class="label">[XXVIII_172]</span></a> Strutt, Manners and Customs, &c.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_173" id="footnote-xxviii_173"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_173"><span class="label">[XXVIII_173]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxviii_174" id="footnote-xxviii_174"></a><a href="#anc_xxviii_174"><span class="label">[XXVIII_174]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<p class="c">XXIX.</p> - -<p class="c">REPASTS.</p> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_1" id="footnote-xxix_1"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_1"><span class="label">[XXIX_1]</span></a> Athen. i. 16.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_2" id="footnote-xxix_2"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_2"><span class="label">[XXIX_2]</span></a> Id. i. 15.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_3" id="footnote-xxix_3"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_3"><span class="label">[XXIX_3]</span></a> Homer. Iliad.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_4" id="footnote-xxix_4"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_4"><span class="label">[XXIX_4]</span></a> Athen. i. 16.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_5" id="footnote-xxix_5"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_5"><span class="label">[XXIX_5]</span></a> Aristot. Probl. xxvi. 45.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_6" id="footnote-xxix_6"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_6"><span class="label">[XXIX_6]</span></a> Posidippus. In Epigr.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_7" id="footnote-xxix_7"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_7"><span class="label">[XXIX_7]</span></a> Hierap. Theodor. de Certam.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_8" id="footnote-xxix_8"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_8"><span class="label">[XXIX_8]</span></a> Ætol. Alexand.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_9" id="footnote-xxix_9"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_9"><span class="label">[XXIX_9]</span></a> Theodorus.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_10" id="footnote-xxix_10"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_10"><span class="label">[XXIX_10]</span></a> Xanthus, In Lydiacis.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_11" id="footnote-xxix_11"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_11"><span class="label">[XXIX_11]</span></a> Theopomp.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_12" id="footnote-xxix_12"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_12"><span class="label">[XXIX_12]</span></a> Clearch.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_13" id="footnote-xxix_13"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_13"><span class="label">[XXIX_13]</span></a> Mnesimach, In Philippo.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_14" id="footnote-xxix_14"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_14"><span class="label">[XXIX_14]</span></a> Crates Theban. In Lamia.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_15" id="footnote-xxix_15"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_15"><span class="label">[XXIX_15]</span></a> Hecatæus apud Athen.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_16" id="footnote-xxix_16"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_16"><span class="label">[XXIX_16]</span></a> Sueton, In Claud. 33.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_17" id="footnote-xxix_17"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_17"><span class="label">[XXIX_17]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_18" id="footnote-xxix_18"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_18"><span class="label">[XXIX_18]</span></a> Id. In Galba. 22.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_19" id="footnote-xxix_19"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_19"><span class="label">[XXIX_19]</span></a> Id. In Vitell. 13.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_20" id="footnote-xxix_20"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_20"><span class="label">[XXIX_20]</span></a> Virgil. Æneid. iii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_21" id="footnote-xxix_21"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_21"><span class="label">[XXIX_21]</span></a> Sueton. loc. cit.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_22" id="footnote-xxix_22"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_22"><span class="label">[XXIX_22]</span></a> Id. In Vitell. 17.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_23" id="footnote-xxix_23"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_23"><span class="label">[XXIX_23]</span></a> Fuller’s Worthies.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_24" id="footnote-xxix_24"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_24"><span class="label">[XXIX_24]</span></a> Berchoux, Gastronomie, note.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_25" id="footnote-xxix_25"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_25"><span class="label">[XXIX_25]</span></a> Athen. i. 19.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_26" id="footnote-xxix_26"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_26"><span class="label">[XXIX_26]</span></a> Herodot. i. 63; Theophrast. Charact. c. 3.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_27" id="footnote-xxix_27"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_27"><span class="label">[XXIX_27]</span></a> Plat. Epist. 7.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_28" id="footnote-xxix_28"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_28"><span class="label">[XXIX_28]</span></a> Athen. i. 9.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_29" id="footnote-xxix_29"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_29"><span class="label">[XXIX_29]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_30" id="footnote-xxix_30"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_30"><span class="label">[XXIX_30]</span></a> Id. v.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_31" id="footnote-xxix_31"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_31"><span class="label">[XXIX_31]</span></a> Plutarch. Sympos. viii. 6.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_32" id="footnote-xxix_32"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_32"><span class="label">[XXIX_32]</span></a> Ecclesiast. x. 16.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_33" id="footnote-xxix_33"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_33"><span class="label">[XXIX_33]</span></a> Mercurial. Variar. lect. iv. 17, In Arte Gymnast. i. -11.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_34" id="footnote-xxix_34"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_34"><span class="label">[XXIX_34]</span></a> Homer. Odyss.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_35" id="footnote-xxix_35"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_35"><span class="label">[XXIX_35]</span></a> Athen. i. 19; Aristophan. In Avib. 1286.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_36" id="footnote-xxix_36"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_36"><span class="label">[XXIX_36]</span></a> Id. Ib.; Schrevelius; Plutarch. Sympos. viii. 6.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_37" id="footnote-xxix_37"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_37"><span class="label">[XXIX_37]</span></a> Apuleius, Metam. i.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_38" id="footnote-xxix_38"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_38"><span class="label">[XXIX_38]</span></a> Martial. xiv. 233.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_39" id="footnote-xxix_39"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_39"><span class="label">[XXIX_39]</span></a> Apul. loc. cit.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_40" id="footnote-xxix_40"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_40"><span class="label">[XXIX_40]</span></a> Sueton. In August. 76.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_41" id="footnote-xxix_41"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_41"><span class="label">[XXIX_41]</span></a> Genes. xliii. 16.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_42" id="footnote-xxix_42"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_42"><span class="label">[XXIX_42]</span></a> Act. x. 9, 10.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_43" id="footnote-xxix_43"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_43"><span class="label">[XXIX_43]</span></a> Athen. i. 9. Plutarch. Sympos. viii. 6.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_44" id="footnote-xxix_44"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_44"><span class="label">[XXIX_44]</span></a> Cic. Tusculan. Quæst. 5.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_45" id="footnote-xxix_45"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_45"><span class="label">[XXIX_45]</span></a> Sueton. In Caligul. 58.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_46" id="footnote-xxix_46"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_46"><span class="label">[XXIX_46]</span></a> Horat. Sat. i. 6.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_47" id="footnote-xxix_47"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_47"><span class="label">[XXIX_47]</span></a> Senec. Epist. 84, 87.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_48" id="footnote-xxix_48"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_48"><span class="label">[XXIX_48]</span></a> Sueton. In Claud. 32.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_49" id="footnote-xxix_49"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_49"><span class="label">[XXIX_49]</span></a> Berchoux, Gastronomie, notes.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_50" id="footnote-xxix_50"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_50"><span class="label">[XXIX_50]</span></a> Isidor. Origin. xx.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_51" id="footnote-xxix_51"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_51"><span class="label">[XXIX_51]</span></a> Joseph. De Bello Jud. vii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_52" id="footnote-xxix_52"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_52"><span class="label">[XXIX_52]</span></a> Jud. xx. 26; II. Reg. i. 12; Ib. iii. 25.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_53" id="footnote-xxix_53"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_53"><span class="label">[XXIX_53]</span></a> Biblia Sacra, passim; Iliad, ix. 206, 218; Odyss. xv. -322.</p></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_439" id="page_439"></a>{439}</span></p> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_54" id="footnote-xxix_54"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_54"><span class="label">[XXIX_54]</span></a> Homer. Iliad. xxi. 363.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_55" id="footnote-xxix_55"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_55"><span class="label">[XXIX_55]</span></a> Id. Ib. ix. 217.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_56" id="footnote-xxix_56"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_56"><span class="label">[XXIX_56]</span></a> Id. Odyss. xvii. 455.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_57" id="footnote-xxix_57"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_57"><span class="label">[XXIX_57]</span></a> Id. Iliad. vii. 480.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_58" id="footnote-xxix_58"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_58"><span class="label">[XXIX_58]</span></a> Id. Ib. xii. 311.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_59" id="footnote-xxix_59"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_59"><span class="label">[XXIX_59]</span></a> Id. Ib. ix, 225.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_60" id="footnote-xxix_60"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_60"><span class="label">[XXIX_60]</span></a> Id. Odyss. i. 226; Terent. Eunuch. iii. 4; Athen. -viii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_61" id="footnote-xxix_61"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_61"><span class="label">[XXIX_61]</span></a> Aristophan. Eccl. 652.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_62" id="footnote-xxix_62"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_62"><span class="label">[XXIX_62]</span></a> Macrob. Saturnal. ii. 13; Val. Max. ii. 1.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_63" id="footnote-xxix_63"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_63"><span class="label">[XXIX_63]</span></a> Biblia Sacra, passim.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_64" id="footnote-xxix_64"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_64"><span class="label">[XXIX_64]</span></a> <span class="smcap">II.</span> Reg. xix. 35.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_65" id="footnote-xxix_65"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_65"><span class="label">[XXIX_65]</span></a> See La Farce de Pathelin.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_66" id="footnote-xxix_66"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_66"><span class="label">[XXIX_66]</span></a> Mémoires de Dangeau.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_67" id="footnote-xxix_67"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_67"><span class="label">[XXIX_67]</span></a> Plato. De Republ. iii. 13.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_68" id="footnote-xxix_68"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_68"><span class="label">[XXIX_68]</span></a> Pollux, vi. 83.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_69" id="footnote-xxix_69"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_69"><span class="label">[XXIX_69]</span></a> Martial. iv. 8.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_70" id="footnote-xxix_70"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_70"><span class="label">[XXIX_70]</span></a> Juvenal. i. 95.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_71" id="footnote-xxix_71"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_71"><span class="label">[XXIX_71]</span></a> Liv. ix.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_72" id="footnote-xxix_72"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_72"><span class="label">[XXIX_72]</span></a> Sueton. in Vitell. 13.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_73" id="footnote-xxix_73"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_73"><span class="label">[XXIX_73]</span></a> Nicolas, Etudes sur le Christianisme, tom. i. p. -254.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_74" id="footnote-xxix_74"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_74"><span class="label">[XXIX_74]</span></a> Strabo; Diodor. Sicul.; Cæsar.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_75" id="footnote-xxix_75"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_75"><span class="label">[XXIX_75]</span></a> Strutt, Manners, &c. vol. i. p. 48.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_76" id="footnote-xxix_76"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_76"><span class="label">[XXIX_76]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_77" id="footnote-xxix_77"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_77"><span class="label">[XXIX_77]</span></a> Id. Ib. p. 49.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_78" id="footnote-xxix_78"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_78"><span class="label">[XXIX_78]</span></a> Plutarch. Sympos. i.; Xenoph. Respubl. Laced.; Plat. -De Conviviis.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_79" id="footnote-xxix_79"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_79"><span class="label">[XXIX_79]</span></a> Exod. xxxii. 6; <span class="smcap">I.</span> Reg. ix. 22, et passim.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_80" id="footnote-xxix_80"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_80"><span class="label">[XXIX_80]</span></a> Philo. De Vitâ Contempl.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_81" id="footnote-xxix_81"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_81"><span class="label">[XXIX_81]</span></a> S. Paul. <span class="smcap">I.</span> Corinth, xi. 20, et seqq.; Chrysostom. -Homil. 27; Tertull. Apologet. c. 39; Augustin. Epist. 64; Baron. Annal. -sub an. 57, 377, 384.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_82" id="footnote-xxix_82"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_82"><span class="label">[XXIX_82]</span></a> Plat. De Conviviis; Aristot. Polit. ii. 8; vii. 10.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_83" id="footnote-xxix_83"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_83"><span class="label">[XXIX_83]</span></a> Xenoph. De Repub. Lac.; Plutarch. In Vita Lycurg.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_84" id="footnote-xxix_84"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_84"><span class="label">[XXIX_84]</span></a> Plutarch. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_85" id="footnote-xxix_85"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_85"><span class="label">[XXIX_85]</span></a> Diogen. Laert.; Plutarch. Vita Solon.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_86" id="footnote-xxix_86"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_86"><span class="label">[XXIX_86]</span></a> Flor. i. 1; Liv. i. 6; Dionys. Halicarn. Ant. Rom. -i.; Plutarch. Vita Romuli.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_87" id="footnote-xxix_87"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_87"><span class="label">[XXIX_87]</span></a> Plutarch. Vita Sullæ.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_88" id="footnote-xxix_88"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_88"><span class="label">[XXIX_88]</span></a> Sueton. In J. Cæsar.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_89" id="footnote-xxix_89"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_89"><span class="label">[XXIX_89]</span></a> Bulenger, De Conviviis.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_90" id="footnote-xxix_90"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_90"><span class="label">[XXIX_90]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_91" id="footnote-xxix_91"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_91"><span class="label">[XXIX_91]</span></a> Vid. Sueton.; Lamprid.; Dio. &c.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_92" id="footnote-xxix_92"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_92"><span class="label">[XXIX_92]</span></a> Id.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_93" id="footnote-xxix_93"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_93"><span class="label">[XXIX_93]</span></a> Apud Strutt, Manners, &c. vol. iii. p. 111.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_94" id="footnote-xxix_94"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_94"><span class="label">[XXIX_94]</span></a> Monteil, Histoire des Français, tom. ii. p. 126.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_95" id="footnote-xxix_95"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_95"><span class="label">[XXIX_95]</span></a> Id. Ib. tom. vii. p. 338, et seqq.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_96" id="footnote-xxix_96"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_96"><span class="label">[XXIX_96]</span></a> See Piganiol, Description de la France.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_97" id="footnote-xxix_97"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_97"><span class="label">[XXIX_97]</span></a> Holinshed, p. 969.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_98" id="footnote-xxix_98"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_98"><span class="label">[XXIX_98]</span></a> Stow, Chron. p. 267.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_99" id="footnote-xxix_99"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_99"><span class="label">[XXIX_99]</span></a> Id. Survey of London, p. 521.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_100" id="footnote-xxix_100"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_100"><span class="label">[XXIX_100]</span></a> Strutt, Manners, &c. vol. ii. p. 104.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_101" id="footnote-xxix_101"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_101"><span class="label">[XXIX_101]</span></a> Holinshed. Descrip. Brit. 94.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_102" id="footnote-xxix_102"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_102"><span class="label">[XXIX_102]</span></a> Massinger, The City Madam.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_103" id="footnote-xxix_103"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_103"><span class="label">[XXIX_103]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_104" id="footnote-xxix_104"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_104"><span class="label">[XXIX_104]</span></a> Killigrew, The Parson’s Wedding.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_105" id="footnote-xxix_105"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_105"><span class="label">[XXIX_105]</span></a> Strutt, Manners, &c. vol. ii. p. 19.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_106" id="footnote-xxix_106"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_106"><span class="label">[XXIX_106]</span></a> Mathieu Paris, anno 1243.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_107" id="footnote-xxix_107"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_107"><span class="label">[XXIX_107]</span></a> Stow’s Survey of London; apud Strutt, vol. ii. p. -19.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_108" id="footnote-xxix_108"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_108"><span class="label">[XXIX_108]</span></a> Monteil, Histoire des Français, tom. i. p. 106, et -seqq.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_109" id="footnote-xxix_109"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_109"><span class="label">[XXIX_109]</span></a> L’Isle des Hermaphrodites.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_110" id="footnote-xxix_110"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_110"><span class="label">[XXIX_110]</span></a> Contes d’Eutrapel.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_111" id="footnote-xxix_111"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_111"><span class="label">[XXIX_111]</span></a> Ibid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_112" id="footnote-xxix_112"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_112"><span class="label">[XXIX_112]</span></a> Des Accords, Les Bigarrures, ch. 6.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxix_113" id="footnote-xxix_113"></a><a href="#anc_xxix_113"><span class="label">[XXIX_113]</span></a> Aventures de Foeneste, liv. iv. ch. 2.</p></div> - -<p class="c">XXX.</p> - -<p class="c">VARIETY OF REPASTS.</p> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxx_1" id="footnote-xxx_1"></a><a href="#anc_xxx_1"><span class="label">[XXX_1]</span></a> Biblia Sacra, passim.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxx_2" id="footnote-xxx_2"></a><a href="#anc_xxx_2"><span class="label">[XXX_2]</span></a> Levitic. iii. 16.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxx_3" id="footnote-xxx_3"></a><a href="#anc_xxx_3"><span class="label">[XXX_3]</span></a> Isai. xxv. 6.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxx_4" id="footnote-xxx_4"></a><a href="#anc_xxx_4"><span class="label">[XXX_4]</span></a> Prov. xxi. 17.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxx_5" id="footnote-xxx_5"></a><a href="#anc_xxx_5"><span class="label">[XXX_5]</span></a> <span class="smcap">III.</span> Reg. iv. 22, 23.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxx_6" id="footnote-xxx_6"></a><a href="#anc_xxx_6"><span class="label">[XXX_6]</span></a> Biblia Sacra, passim.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxx_7" id="footnote-xxx_7"></a><a href="#anc_xxx_7"><span class="label">[XXX_7]</span></a> Ap. Ulric. Rasium, In Catal. Legg. Antiquar. ad Leg. -Jul. de Annonâ.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxx_8" id="footnote-xxx_8"></a><a href="#anc_xxx_8"><span class="label">[XXX_8]</span></a> Plato. De Leg. vi. xxxiv.; Aristot. de Republ. iv. 4, -15; vi. 8; Postel. De Magistrat. Athen.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxx_9" id="footnote-xxx_9"></a><a href="#anc_xxx_9"><span class="label">[XXX_9]</span></a> Gorræi. Annal.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxx_10" id="footnote-xxx_10"></a><a href="#anc_xxx_10"><span class="label">[XXX_10]</span></a> Accurs.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxx_11" id="footnote-xxx_11"></a><a href="#anc_xxx_11"><span class="label">[XXX_11]</span></a> Rosin. Antiquit. Roman, p. 533.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxx_12" id="footnote-xxx_12"></a><a href="#anc_xxx_12"><span class="label">[XXX_12]</span></a> Athen. i. 4.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxx_13" id="footnote-xxx_13"></a><a href="#anc_xxx_13"><span class="label">[XXX_13]</span></a> Philostrat.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxx_14" id="footnote-xxx_14"></a><a href="#anc_xxx_14"><span class="label">[XXX_14]</span></a> Athen. i. 5.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxx_15" id="footnote-xxx_15"></a><a href="#anc_xxx_15"><span class="label">[XXX_15]</span></a> Id. v.; Homer. Virgil, passim; Banier; Stuckius.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxx_16" id="footnote-xxx_16"></a><a href="#anc_xxx_16"><span class="label">[XXX_16]</span></a> Arnob. iii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxx_17" id="footnote-xxx_17"></a><a href="#anc_xxx_17"><span class="label">[XXX_17]</span></a> Varro.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxx_18" id="footnote-xxx_18"></a><a href="#anc_xxx_18"><span class="label">[XXX_18]</span></a> Columell.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxx_19" id="footnote-xxx_19"></a><a href="#anc_xxx_19"><span class="label">[XXX_19]</span></a> Senec. De Vitâ Beatâ, c. 11.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxx_20" id="footnote-xxx_20"></a><a href="#anc_xxx_20"><span class="label">[XXX_20]</span></a> Liv. xxiv.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxx_21" id="footnote-xxx_21"></a><a href="#anc_xxx_21"><span class="label">[XXX_21]</span></a> Plaut. Menech. i. 1, 25.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxx_22" id="footnote-xxx_22"></a><a href="#anc_xxx_22"><span class="label">[XXX_22]</span></a> Tibull. i. 3.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxx_23" id="footnote-xxx_23"></a><a href="#anc_xxx_23"><span class="label">[XXX_23]</span></a> Macrob. Saturnal. i. 7.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxx_24" id="footnote-xxx_24"></a><a href="#anc_xxx_24"><span class="label">[XXX_24]</span></a> Horat. Od. ii. 14.</p></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_440" id="page_440"></a>{440}</span></p> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxx_25" id="footnote-xxx_25"></a><a href="#anc_xxx_25"><span class="label">[XXX_25]</span></a> Varro. R. R. iii. 6.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxx_26" id="footnote-xxx_26"></a><a href="#anc_xxx_26"><span class="label">[XXX_26]</span></a> Apul. Metam. iv. 152.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxx_27" id="footnote-xxx_27"></a><a href="#anc_xxx_27"><span class="label">[XXX_27]</span></a> Sueton.; Lamprid.; Dio.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxx_28" id="footnote-xxx_28"></a><a href="#anc_xxx_28"><span class="label">[XXX_28]</span></a> Plin. ix. 55.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxx_29" id="footnote-xxx_29"></a><a href="#anc_xxx_29"><span class="label">[XXX_29]</span></a> Possidon. ii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxx_30" id="footnote-xxx_30"></a><a href="#anc_xxx_30"><span class="label">[XXX_30]</span></a> Crinit. De Honest. Discipl. xxiv. 5.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxx_31" id="footnote-xxx_31"></a><a href="#anc_xxx_31"><span class="label">[XXX_31]</span></a> Spartian.; Stuckius.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxx_32" id="footnote-xxx_32"></a><a href="#anc_xxx_32"><span class="label">[XXX_32]</span></a> Lucian. In Lapith.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxx_33" id="footnote-xxx_33"></a><a href="#anc_xxx_33"><span class="label">[XXX_33]</span></a> Sueton. In Vitell. 13.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxx_34" id="footnote-xxx_34"></a><a href="#anc_xxx_34"><span class="label">[XXX_34]</span></a> Plaut. Bacch. i. 1, 61.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxx_35" id="footnote-xxx_35"></a><a href="#anc_xxx_35"><span class="label">[XXX_35]</span></a> Vatin. c. 12; Varro. apud Nonnium. i. 234.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxx_36" id="footnote-xxx_36"></a><a href="#anc_xxx_36"><span class="label">[XXX_36]</span></a> Barthélémy, Anacharsis.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxx_37" id="footnote-xxx_37"></a><a href="#anc_xxx_37"><span class="label">[XXX_37]</span></a> Pererius, Comment. In Daniel.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxx_38" id="footnote-xxx_38"></a><a href="#anc_xxx_38"><span class="label">[XXX_38]</span></a> Athen. iv.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxx_39" id="footnote-xxx_39"></a><a href="#anc_xxx_39"><span class="label">[XXX_39]</span></a> Polyæn. Strateg. vi.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxx_40" id="footnote-xxx_40"></a><a href="#anc_xxx_40"><span class="label">[XXX_40]</span></a> Athen. ii. ix.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxx_41" id="footnote-xxx_41"></a><a href="#anc_xxx_41"><span class="label">[XXX_41]</span></a> Id. iv.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxx_42" id="footnote-xxx_42"></a><a href="#anc_xxx_42"><span class="label">[XXX_42]</span></a> Aristoph. Acharn.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxx_43" id="footnote-xxx_43"></a><a href="#anc_xxx_43"><span class="label">[XXX_43]</span></a> Monteil. Histoire des Français, tom. i. p. 203.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxx_44" id="footnote-xxx_44"></a><a href="#anc_xxx_44"><span class="label">[XXX_44]</span></a> Id. Ib. iii. p. 489.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxx_45" id="footnote-xxx_45"></a><a href="#anc_xxx_45"><span class="label">[XXX_45]</span></a> Strutt. Manners, &c. vol. iii. p. 113.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxx_46" id="footnote-xxx_46"></a><a href="#anc_xxx_46"><span class="label">[XXX_46]</span></a> From a Manuscript in the Harleian Library, quoted by -Strutt, Manners, &c. vol. iii. p. 114.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxx_47" id="footnote-xxx_47"></a><a href="#anc_xxx_47"><span class="label">[XXX_47]</span></a> Taillevant. Le Viandier.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxx_48" id="footnote-xxx_48"></a><a href="#anc_xxx_48"><span class="label">[XXX_48]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxx_49" id="footnote-xxx_49"></a><a href="#anc_xxx_49"><span class="label">[XXX_49]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxx_50" id="footnote-xxx_50"></a><a href="#anc_xxx_50"><span class="label">[XXX_50]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxx_51" id="footnote-xxx_51"></a><a href="#anc_xxx_51"><span class="label">[XXX_51]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxx_52" id="footnote-xxx_52"></a><a href="#anc_xxx_52"><span class="label">[XXX_52]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<p class="c">XXXI.</p> - -<p class="c">THE DINING-ROOM.</p> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxi_1" id="footnote-xxxi_1"></a><a href="#anc_xxxi_1"><span class="label">[XXXI_1]</span></a> Valla. iv.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxi_2" id="footnote-xxxi_2"></a><a href="#anc_xxxi_2"><span class="label">[XXXI_2]</span></a> Fest. Pomp. iii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxi_3" id="footnote-xxxi_3"></a><a href="#anc_xxxi_3"><span class="label">[XXXI_3]</span></a> Vid. Fabr. v. Solarium.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxi_4" id="footnote-xxxi_4"></a><a href="#anc_xxxi_4"><span class="label">[XXXI_4]</span></a> Petron. Satyric.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxi_5" id="footnote-xxxi_5"></a><a href="#anc_xxxi_5"><span class="label">[XXXI_5]</span></a> Ercolano, &c.; Gell’s Pompeiana, passim; Senec. Epist. -90.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxi_6" id="footnote-xxxi_6"></a><a href="#anc_xxxi_6"><span class="label">[XXXI_6]</span></a> Sueton. In Neron. 31.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxi_7" id="footnote-xxxi_7"></a><a href="#anc_xxxi_7"><span class="label">[XXXI_7]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxi_8" id="footnote-xxxi_8"></a><a href="#anc_xxxi_8"><span class="label">[XXXI_8]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxi_9" id="footnote-xxxi_9"></a><a href="#anc_xxxi_9"><span class="label">[XXXI_9]</span></a> Senec. De Tranquill. Anim. c. 9.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxi_10" id="footnote-xxxi_10"></a><a href="#anc_xxxi_10"><span class="label">[XXXI_10]</span></a> Cornel. Nepos.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxi_11" id="footnote-xxxi_11"></a><a href="#anc_xxxi_11"><span class="label">[XXXI_11]</span></a> Juvenal. Sat. ii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxi_12" id="footnote-xxxi_12"></a><a href="#anc_xxxi_12"><span class="label">[XXXI_12]</span></a> Athen. iii. 21; Gell. iii. 19.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxi_13" id="footnote-xxxi_13"></a><a href="#anc_xxxi_13"><span class="label">[XXXI_13]</span></a> Athen. Lys. Frag. 46.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxi_14" id="footnote-xxxi_14"></a><a href="#anc_xxxi_14"><span class="label">[XXXI_14]</span></a> Athen. Pollux, x. 122; Plat. Repub. iii.; Theophr. -Charact. 22.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxi_15" id="footnote-xxxi_15"></a><a href="#anc_xxxi_15"><span class="label">[XXXI_15]</span></a> Juvenal, iii. 204.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxi_16" id="footnote-xxxi_16"></a><a href="#anc_xxxi_16"><span class="label">[XXXI_16]</span></a> Encyclop. Méthod. Antiquit.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxi_17" id="footnote-xxxi_17"></a><a href="#anc_xxxi_17"><span class="label">[XXXI_17]</span></a> Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxi_18" id="footnote-xxxi_18"></a><a href="#anc_xxxi_18"><span class="label">[XXXI_18]</span></a> Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxi_19" id="footnote-xxxi_19"></a><a href="#anc_xxxi_19"><span class="label">[XXXI_19]</span></a> Virgil. Æn. vii. 528.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxi_20" id="footnote-xxxi_20"></a><a href="#anc_xxxi_20"><span class="label">[XXXI_20]</span></a> Monstrelet, Chroniques.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxi_21" id="footnote-xxxi_21"></a><a href="#anc_xxxi_21"><span class="label">[XXXI_21]</span></a> Mélanges Tirés d’une Grande Bibliothèque.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxi_22" id="footnote-xxxi_22"></a><a href="#anc_xxxi_22"><span class="label">[XXXI_22]</span></a> Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxi_23" id="footnote-xxxi_23"></a><a href="#anc_xxxi_23"><span class="label">[XXXI_23]</span></a> Chroniques de St. Denis.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxi_24" id="footnote-xxxi_24"></a><a href="#anc_xxxi_24"><span class="label">[XXXI_24]</span></a> Vigiles de Charles VII.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxi_25" id="footnote-xxxi_25"></a><a href="#anc_xxxi_25"><span class="label">[XXXI_25]</span></a> L’Isle des Hermaphrodites.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxi_26" id="footnote-xxxi_26"></a><a href="#anc_xxxi_26"><span class="label">[XXXI_26]</span></a> Jerem. xxxvi. 22.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxi_27" id="footnote-xxxi_27"></a><a href="#anc_xxxi_27"><span class="label">[XXXI_27]</span></a> Ercolano, &c.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxi_28" id="footnote-xxxi_28"></a><a href="#anc_xxxi_28"><span class="label">[XXXI_28]</span></a> Plin. Epist. ii. 17.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxi_29" id="footnote-xxxi_29"></a><a href="#anc_xxxi_29"><span class="label">[XXXI_29]</span></a> Apul. Metam. iv.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxi_30" id="footnote-xxxi_30"></a><a href="#anc_xxxi_30"><span class="label">[XXXI_30]</span></a> Columell. ii. 22.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxi_31" id="footnote-xxxi_31"></a><a href="#anc_xxxi_31"><span class="label">[XXXI_31]</span></a> Sil. Italic. Punicor. vi.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxi_32" id="footnote-xxxi_32"></a><a href="#anc_xxxi_32"><span class="label">[XXXI_32]</span></a> Petron. à Nodot. tom. i. p. 116.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxi_33" id="footnote-xxxi_33"></a><a href="#anc_xxxi_33"><span class="label">[XXXI_33]</span></a> Paulinus, Episcop. Nolæ. D. Felicis Natali, 6.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxi_34" id="footnote-xxxi_34"></a><a href="#anc_xxxi_34"><span class="label">[XXXI_34]</span></a> Mercure Galant. Mars, 1681.</p></div> - -<p class="c">XXXII.</p> - -<p class="c">THE TABLE.</p> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxii_1" id="footnote-xxxii_1"></a><a href="#anc_xxxii_1"><span class="label">[XXXII_1]</span></a> Athen. i. 20.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxii_2" id="footnote-xxxii_2"></a><a href="#anc_xxxii_2"><span class="label">[XXXII_2]</span></a> Tibull. ii. 6; Valer. Flac. Argonaut. i.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxii_3" id="footnote-xxxii_3"></a><a href="#anc_xxxii_3"><span class="label">[XXXII_3]</span></a> Plin. xxxiii. 11.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxii_4" id="footnote-xxxii_4"></a><a href="#anc_xxxii_4"><span class="label">[XXXII_4]</span></a> Hom. Odyss, iii. 138.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxii_5" id="footnote-xxxii_5"></a><a href="#anc_xxxii_5"><span class="label">[XXXII_5]</span></a> Athen. xi. 78.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxii_6" id="footnote-xxxii_6"></a><a href="#anc_xxxii_6"><span class="label">[XXXII_6]</span></a> Athen. ix. 75.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxii_7" id="footnote-xxxii_7"></a><a href="#anc_xxxii_7"><span class="label">[XXXII_7]</span></a> Homer. Odyss. iii. 354 et seqq.; 361 et seqq.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxii_8" id="footnote-xxxii_8"></a><a href="#anc_xxxii_8"><span class="label">[XXXII_8]</span></a> Athen. xi. 27.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxii_9" id="footnote-xxxii_9"></a><a href="#anc_xxxii_9"><span class="label">[XXXII_9]</span></a> Potter, ii. p. 377.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxii_10" id="footnote-xxxii_10"></a><a href="#anc_xxxii_10"><span class="label">[XXXII_10]</span></a> Liv. ix. Decad. 4.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxii_11" id="footnote-xxxii_11"></a><a href="#anc_xxxii_11"><span class="label">[XXXII_11]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxii_12" id="footnote-xxxii_12"></a><a href="#anc_xxxii_12"><span class="label">[XXXII_12]</span></a> Plin. xvi. 27.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxii_13" id="footnote-xxxii_13"></a><a href="#anc_xxxii_13"><span class="label">[XXXII_13]</span></a> Id. xiii. 15.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxii_14" id="footnote-xxxii_14"></a><a href="#anc_xxxii_14"><span class="label">[XXXII_14]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxii_15" id="footnote-xxxii_15"></a><a href="#anc_xxxii_15"><span class="label">[XXXII_15]</span></a> Id. Ib.; Senec. De Tranquil. Anim. c. i.; Id. De -Beneficiis, vii. 9.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxii_16" id="footnote-xxxii_16"></a><a href="#anc_xxxii_16"><span class="label">[XXXII_16]</span></a> Plin. ix. 11.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxii_17" id="footnote-xxxii_17"></a><a href="#anc_xxxii_17"><span class="label">[XXXII_17]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxii_18" id="footnote-xxxii_18"></a><a href="#anc_xxxii_18"><span class="label">[XXXII_18]</span></a> Id. xvi.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxii_19" id="footnote-xxxii_19"></a><a href="#anc_xxxii_19"><span class="label">[XXXII_19]</span></a> Fest. v.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxii_20" id="footnote-xxxii_20"></a><a href="#anc_xxxii_20"><span class="label">[XXXII_20]</span></a> Varro. L. L. iv.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxii_21" id="footnote-xxxii_21"></a><a href="#anc_xxxii_21"><span class="label">[XXXII_21]</span></a> Sidon. Apollin. Epist. ii. 2.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxii_22" id="footnote-xxxii_22"></a><a href="#anc_xxxii_22"><span class="label">[XXXII_22]</span></a> Id. Ib. i. 11.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxii_23" id="footnote-xxxii_23"></a><a href="#anc_xxxii_23"><span class="label">[XXXII_23]</span></a> Rosin. Ant. Rom. p. 377.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxii_24" id="footnote-xxxii_24"></a><a href="#anc_xxxii_24"><span class="label">[XXXII_24]</span></a> Servius. Æn. i. ad finem.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxii_25" id="footnote-xxxii_25"></a><a href="#anc_xxxii_25"><span class="label">[XXXII_25]</span></a> Homer. Odyss. i. 259; Pind. Olymp. i. 26.</p></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_441" id="page_441"></a>{441}</span></p> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxii_26" id="footnote-xxxii_26"></a><a href="#anc_xxxii_26"><span class="label">[XXXII_26]</span></a> Martial.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxii_27" id="footnote-xxxii_27"></a><a href="#anc_xxxii_27"><span class="label">[XXXII_27]</span></a> Apul. Milesiar. ii.; Basil. Magnus Orat. ad -Divites.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxii_28" id="footnote-xxxii_28"></a><a href="#anc_xxxii_28"><span class="label">[XXXII_28]</span></a> Plin. xiii. 15.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxii_29" id="footnote-xxxii_29"></a><a href="#anc_xxxii_29"><span class="label">[XXXII_29]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxii_30" id="footnote-xxxii_30"></a><a href="#anc_xxxii_30"><span class="label">[XXXII_30]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxii_31" id="footnote-xxxii_31"></a><a href="#anc_xxxii_31"><span class="label">[XXXII_31]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxii_32" id="footnote-xxxii_32"></a><a href="#anc_xxxii_32"><span class="label">[XXXII_32]</span></a> Stuckius.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxii_33" id="footnote-xxxii_33"></a><a href="#anc_xxxii_33"><span class="label">[XXXII_33]</span></a> Id.; Calmet.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxii_34" id="footnote-xxxii_34"></a><a href="#anc_xxxii_34"><span class="label">[XXXII_34]</span></a> Gregor. Tur.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxii_35" id="footnote-xxxii_35"></a><a href="#anc_xxxii_35"><span class="label">[XXXII_35]</span></a> Eginhard.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxii_36" id="footnote-xxxii_36"></a><a href="#anc_xxxii_36"><span class="label">[XXXII_36]</span></a> Polydor. Virgil, p. 257; Rapin De Thoiras.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxii_37" id="footnote-xxxii_37"></a><a href="#anc_xxxii_37"><span class="label">[XXXII_37]</span></a> Varro. L. L. iv. 26.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxii_38" id="footnote-xxxii_38"></a><a href="#anc_xxxii_38"><span class="label">[XXXII_38]</span></a> Printed <small>A.D.</small> 1508</p></div> - -<p class="c">THE TABLE SEATS.</p> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxii_39" id="footnote-xxxii_39"></a><a href="#anc_xxxii_39"><span class="label">[XXXII_39]</span></a> Calmet.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxii_40" id="footnote-xxxii_40"></a><a href="#anc_xxxii_40"><span class="label">[XXXII_40]</span></a> <span class="smcap">I.</span> Reg. ix. 22.; xx. 25.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxii_41" id="footnote-xxxii_41"></a><a href="#anc_xxxii_41"><span class="label">[XXXII_41]</span></a> Calmet. tom. v. fol. 256.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxii_42" id="footnote-xxxii_42"></a><a href="#anc_xxxii_42"><span class="label">[XXXII_42]</span></a> Diodor, Sicul.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxii_43" id="footnote-xxxii_43"></a><a href="#anc_xxxii_43"><span class="label">[XXXII_43]</span></a> Ercolano, tom. i. tav. 29; Athen. xi. 72.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxii_44" id="footnote-xxxii_44"></a><a href="#anc_xxxii_44"><span class="label">[XXXII_44]</span></a> Athen. i. 31.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxii_45" id="footnote-xxxii_45"></a><a href="#anc_xxxii_45"><span class="label">[XXXII_45]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxii_46" id="footnote-xxxii_46"></a><a href="#anc_xxxii_46"><span class="label">[XXXII_46]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxii_47" id="footnote-xxxii_47"></a><a href="#anc_xxxii_47"><span class="label">[XXXII_47]</span></a> Isidor. xx. 11.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxii_48" id="footnote-xxxii_48"></a><a href="#anc_xxxii_48"><span class="label">[XXXII_48]</span></a> Valer. Maxim. ii. 1.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxii_49" id="footnote-xxxii_49"></a><a href="#anc_xxxii_49"><span class="label">[XXXII_49]</span></a> Rosinus; Stuckius.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxii_50" id="footnote-xxxii_50"></a><a href="#anc_xxxii_50"><span class="label">[XXXII_50]</span></a> Scholiast. Juvenal. Sat. v. 17.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxii_51" id="footnote-xxxii_51"></a><a href="#anc_xxxii_51"><span class="label">[XXXII_51]</span></a> Rosin. p. 380.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxii_52" id="footnote-xxxii_52"></a><a href="#anc_xxxii_52"><span class="label">[XXXII_52]</span></a> Athen. ii. 9.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxii_53" id="footnote-xxxii_53"></a><a href="#anc_xxxii_53"><span class="label">[XXXII_53]</span></a> Martial. ii. 46.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxii_54" id="footnote-xxxii_54"></a><a href="#anc_xxxii_54"><span class="label">[XXXII_54]</span></a> Id. iii. 49.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxii_55" id="footnote-xxxii_55"></a><a href="#anc_xxxii_55"><span class="label">[XXXII_55]</span></a> Rosinus.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxii_56" id="footnote-xxxii_56"></a><a href="#anc_xxxii_56"><span class="label">[XXXII_56]</span></a> Horat. Serm. ii. 3, 253.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxii_57" id="footnote-xxxii_57"></a><a href="#anc_xxxii_57"><span class="label">[XXXII_57]</span></a> Stuckius; Rosinus; Ercolano, passim.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxii_58" id="footnote-xxxii_58"></a><a href="#anc_xxxii_58"><span class="label">[XXXII_58]</span></a> Lambin. In Sat. iv. lib. ii.; Horat.; Mercurial. De -Art. Gymnast.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxii_59" id="footnote-xxxii_59"></a><a href="#anc_xxxii_59"><span class="label">[XXXII_59]</span></a> Xenoph. De Pæd. Cyri, viii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxii_60" id="footnote-xxxii_60"></a><a href="#anc_xxxii_60"><span class="label">[XXXII_60]</span></a> Plutarch. Sympos.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxii_61" id="footnote-xxxii_61"></a><a href="#anc_xxxii_61"><span class="label">[XXXII_61]</span></a> Lamprid. In Elogab.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxii_62" id="footnote-xxxii_62"></a><a href="#anc_xxxii_62"><span class="label">[XXXII_62]</span></a> Spartian. In Vero.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxii_63" id="footnote-xxxii_63"></a><a href="#anc_xxxii_63"><span class="label">[XXXII_63]</span></a> Lamprid. loc. cit.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxii_64" id="footnote-xxxii_64"></a><a href="#anc_xxxii_64"><span class="label">[XXXII_64]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxii_65" id="footnote-xxxii_65"></a><a href="#anc_xxxii_65"><span class="label">[XXXII_65]</span></a> Possidonius.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxii_66" id="footnote-xxxii_66"></a><a href="#anc_xxxii_66"><span class="label">[XXXII_66]</span></a> Strabo.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxii_67" id="footnote-xxxii_67"></a><a href="#anc_xxxii_67"><span class="label">[XXXII_67]</span></a> Diodor.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxii_68" id="footnote-xxxii_68"></a><a href="#anc_xxxii_68"><span class="label">[XXXII_68]</span></a> Le Moine de St. Gal.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxii_69" id="footnote-xxxii_69"></a><a href="#anc_xxxii_69"><span class="label">[XXXII_69]</span></a> Ménage.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxii_70" id="footnote-xxxii_70"></a><a href="#anc_xxxii_70"><span class="label">[XXXII_70]</span></a> L’Isle des Hermaphrodites.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxii_71" id="footnote-xxxii_71"></a><a href="#anc_xxxii_71"><span class="label">[XXXII_71]</span></a> Vie de St. Arnould.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxii_72" id="footnote-xxxii_72"></a><a href="#anc_xxxii_72"><span class="label">[XXXII_72]</span></a> Mélanges Tirés d’une Grande Bibliothèque.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxii_73" id="footnote-xxxii_73"></a><a href="#anc_xxxii_73"><span class="label">[XXXII_73]</span></a> Vita S. Berlandæ.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxii_74" id="footnote-xxxii_74"></a><a href="#anc_xxxii_74"><span class="label">[XXXII_74]</span></a> Martial. xii. 29.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxii_75" id="footnote-xxxii_75"></a><a href="#anc_xxxii_75"><span class="label">[XXXII_75]</span></a> Alain Chartier.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxii_76" id="footnote-xxxii_76"></a><a href="#anc_xxxii_76"><span class="label">[XXXII_76]</span></a> L’Isle des Hermaphr.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxii_77" id="footnote-xxxii_77"></a><a href="#anc_xxxii_77"><span class="label">[XXXII_77]</span></a> Martial. loc. cit.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxii_78" id="footnote-xxxii_78"></a><a href="#anc_xxxii_78"><span class="label">[XXXII_78]</span></a> Plin. xxxv. 15; xxxvi. 19.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxii_79" id="footnote-xxxii_79"></a><a href="#anc_xxxii_79"><span class="label">[XXXII_79]</span></a> Id. Ibid.</p></div> - -<p class="c">XXXIII.</p> - -<p class="c">THE SERVANTS.</p> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxiii_1" id="footnote-xxxiii_1"></a><a href="#anc_xxxiii_1"><span class="label">[XXXIII_1]</span></a> Gruterus, pp. 260, 966, 973.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxiii_2" id="footnote-xxxiii_2"></a><a href="#anc_xxxiii_2"><span class="label">[XXXIII_2]</span></a> Kipping. Antiquitat.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxiii_3" id="footnote-xxxiii_3"></a><a href="#anc_xxxiii_3"><span class="label">[XXXIII_3]</span></a> Dionys. Halicarnass. ii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxiii_4" id="footnote-xxxiii_4"></a><a href="#anc_xxxiii_4"><span class="label">[XXXIII_4]</span></a> Exod. xxi. 6; Deuteron. xv. 17.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxiii_5" id="footnote-xxxiii_5"></a><a href="#anc_xxxiii_5"><span class="label">[XXXIII_5]</span></a> Juvenal. Sat. i.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxiii_6" id="footnote-xxxiii_6"></a><a href="#anc_xxxiii_6"><span class="label">[XXXIII_6]</span></a> Cœl. Rhodig. Antiquit. viii. 11.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxiii_7" id="footnote-xxxiii_7"></a><a href="#anc_xxxiii_7"><span class="label">[XXXIII_7]</span></a> Zachar. xiii. 6.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxiii_8" id="footnote-xxxiii_8"></a><a href="#anc_xxxiii_8"><span class="label">[XXXIII_8]</span></a> Plaut. Casin. act ii. sc. 6.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxiii_9" id="footnote-xxxiii_9"></a><a href="#anc_xxxiii_9"><span class="label">[XXXIII_9]</span></a> Gruterus, p. 596.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxiii_10" id="footnote-xxxiii_10"></a><a href="#anc_xxxiii_10"><span class="label">[XXXIII_10]</span></a> Petron. Satyric.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxiii_11" id="footnote-xxxiii_11"></a><a href="#anc_xxxiii_11"><span class="label">[XXXIII_11]</span></a> Columell. i.; Tibull. i. 7.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxiii_12" id="footnote-xxxiii_12"></a><a href="#anc_xxxiii_12"><span class="label">[XXXIII_12]</span></a> Vid. Pignorium, De Servis.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxiii_13" id="footnote-xxxiii_13"></a><a href="#anc_xxxiii_13"><span class="label">[XXXIII_13]</span></a> Id. Ib.; Petron. loc. cit.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxiii_14" id="footnote-xxxiii_14"></a><a href="#anc_xxxiii_14"><span class="label">[XXXIII_14]</span></a> Senec. Epist. 47.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxiii_15" id="footnote-xxxiii_15"></a><a href="#anc_xxxiii_15"><span class="label">[XXXIII_15]</span></a> Plin. xxxv. 10; Senec. De Irâ. iii. 37.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxiii_16" id="footnote-xxxiii_16"></a><a href="#anc_xxxiii_16"><span class="label">[XXXIII_16]</span></a> Pignor. loc. cit.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxiii_17" id="footnote-xxxiii_17"></a><a href="#anc_xxxiii_17"><span class="label">[XXXIII_17]</span></a> Sueton. In Domit. 16; Capitol. Pertin. 4.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxiii_18" id="footnote-xxxiii_18"></a><a href="#anc_xxxiii_18"><span class="label">[XXXIII_18]</span></a> Hildebrand. Compend. Antiquit. Rom.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxiii_19" id="footnote-xxxiii_19"></a><a href="#anc_xxxiii_19"><span class="label">[XXXIII_19]</span></a> Plin. xxxii. 6; Petron. c. 47.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxiii_20" id="footnote-xxxiii_20"></a><a href="#anc_xxxiii_20"><span class="label">[XXXIII_20]</span></a> Petron. c. 35.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxiii_21" id="footnote-xxxiii_21"></a><a href="#anc_xxxiii_21"><span class="label">[XXXIII_21]</span></a> Id. c. 36.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxiii_22" id="footnote-xxxiii_22"></a><a href="#anc_xxxiii_22"><span class="label">[XXXIII_22]</span></a> Philo. De Vitâ Contemplativâ.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxiii_23" id="footnote-xxxiii_23"></a><a href="#anc_xxxiii_23"><span class="label">[XXXIII_23]</span></a> Plaut. Trin. ii. 1, 22.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxiii_24" id="footnote-xxxiii_24"></a><a href="#anc_xxxiii_24"><span class="label">[XXXIII_24]</span></a> Propert. ii. 25, 11.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxiii_25" id="footnote-xxxiii_25"></a><a href="#anc_xxxiii_25"><span class="label">[XXXIII_25]</span></a> Terent. Eunuch, iii. 5, 47; Fulv. Ursin. In -Appendic. ad Ciaccon.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxiii_26" id="footnote-xxxiii_26"></a><a href="#anc_xxxiii_26"><span class="label">[XXXIII_26]</span></a> Plaut. Most. iv. 1, 24; Terent. Adelphi. 12.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxiii_27" id="footnote-xxxiii_27"></a><a href="#anc_xxxiii_27"><span class="label">[XXXIII_27]</span></a> Pignorius; Sueton, In Claud. 44.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxiii_28" id="footnote-xxxiii_28"></a><a href="#anc_xxxiii_28"><span class="label">[XXXIII_28]</span></a> Petron. c. 22; Pignorius.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxiii_29" id="footnote-xxxiii_29"></a><a href="#anc_xxxiii_29"><span class="label">[XXXIII_29]</span></a> Senec. Epist. 29; Lips. Elector, i. 19.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxiii_30" id="footnote-xxxiii_30"></a><a href="#anc_xxxiii_30"><span class="label">[XXXIII_30]</span></a> Ulpian. L. i. § 5, Dig. De Naut. Caupon. et -Stabular.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxiii_31" id="footnote-xxxiii_31"></a><a href="#anc_xxxiii_31"><span class="label">[XXXIII_31]</span></a> Id. Dig. xxxviii. t. 7, L. viii. Fin. § 1.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxiii_32" id="footnote-xxxiii_32"></a><a href="#anc_xxxiii_32"><span class="label">[XXXIII_32]</span></a> Stuckius.</p></div> - -<p class="c">XXXIV.</p> - -<p class="c">THE GUESTS.</p> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxiv_1" id="footnote-xxxiv_1"></a><a href="#anc_xxxiv_1"><span class="label">[XXXIV_1]</span></a> Genes. xliii. et passim.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxiv_2" id="footnote-xxxiv_2"></a><a href="#anc_xxxiv_2"><span class="label">[XXXIV_2]</span></a> Schol. Theocrit. In Idyll. vii. 24; Plut. Sympos. -viii. 6.</p></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_442" id="page_442"></a>{442}</span></p> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxiv_3" id="footnote-xxxiv_3"></a><a href="#anc_xxxiv_3"><span class="label">[XXXIV_3]</span></a> Athen. i. 21.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxiv_4" id="footnote-xxxiv_4"></a><a href="#anc_xxxiv_4"><span class="label">[XXXIV_4]</span></a> Id. i. 23.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxiv_5" id="footnote-xxxiv_5"></a><a href="#anc_xxxiv_5"><span class="label">[XXXIV_5]</span></a> Homer.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxiv_6" id="footnote-xxxiv_6"></a><a href="#anc_xxxiv_6"><span class="label">[XXXIV_6]</span></a> Athen. i. 19.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxiv_7" id="footnote-xxxiv_7"></a><a href="#anc_xxxiv_7"><span class="label">[XXXIV_7]</span></a> Id. i. 7.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxiv_8" id="footnote-xxxiv_8"></a><a href="#anc_xxxiv_8"><span class="label">[XXXIV_8]</span></a> Xenoph. De Republ. Laced.; Plut. Vita Lycurg.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxiv_9" id="footnote-xxxiv_9"></a><a href="#anc_xxxiv_9"><span class="label">[XXXIV_9]</span></a> Athen. i.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxiv_10" id="footnote-xxxiv_10"></a><a href="#anc_xxxiv_10"><span class="label">[XXXIV_10]</span></a> Plutarch. Sympos.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxiv_11" id="footnote-xxxiv_11"></a><a href="#anc_xxxiv_11"><span class="label">[XXXIV_11]</span></a> Apul. Milesiar. x.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxiv_12" id="footnote-xxxiv_12"></a><a href="#anc_xxxiv_12"><span class="label">[XXXIV_12]</span></a> Macrob. Saturnal. iii. 17.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxiv_13" id="footnote-xxxiv_13"></a><a href="#anc_xxxiv_13"><span class="label">[XXXIV_13]</span></a> Gell. xiii. 11; De Num. Conviv.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxiv_14" id="footnote-xxxiv_14"></a><a href="#anc_xxxiv_14"><span class="label">[XXXIV_14]</span></a> Macrob. loc. cit.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxiv_15" id="footnote-xxxiv_15"></a><a href="#anc_xxxiv_15"><span class="label">[XXXIV_15]</span></a> Sammonic. Severus; Macrob. loc. cit.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxiv_16" id="footnote-xxxiv_16"></a><a href="#anc_xxxiv_16"><span class="label">[XXXIV_16]</span></a> Plaut.; Horat.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxiv_17" id="footnote-xxxiv_17"></a><a href="#anc_xxxiv_17"><span class="label">[XXXIV_17]</span></a> Plaut.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxiv_18" id="footnote-xxxiv_18"></a><a href="#anc_xxxiv_18"><span class="label">[XXXIV_18]</span></a> Athen. vi. 5; Terent. Eunuch, ii. 2, 13, et 16.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxiv_19" id="footnote-xxxiv_19"></a><a href="#anc_xxxiv_19"><span class="label">[XXXIV_19]</span></a> Virg. Æn. i.; Plaut. Pers. v. 2; Athen. xiv.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxiv_20" id="footnote-xxxiv_20"></a><a href="#anc_xxxiv_20"><span class="label">[XXXIV_20]</span></a> Genes. xviii. 4; xix. 2; Judic. xix. 21; Luc. vii. -44; 1 Timoth. v. 10, et passim.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxiv_21" id="footnote-xxxiv_21"></a><a href="#anc_xxxiv_21"><span class="label">[XXXIV_21]</span></a> Tibull. Eleg. iv. 6.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxiv_22" id="footnote-xxxiv_22"></a><a href="#anc_xxxiv_22"><span class="label">[XXXIV_22]</span></a> Marc. xiv. 3.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxiv_23" id="footnote-xxxiv_23"></a><a href="#anc_xxxiv_23"><span class="label">[XXXIV_23]</span></a> Horat. Od. iii. 14; Anacr. passim.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxiv_24" id="footnote-xxxiv_24"></a><a href="#anc_xxxiv_24"><span class="label">[XXXIV_24]</span></a> Plin. xiv. 22; Plut. Sympos.; Athen. x.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxiv_25" id="footnote-xxxiv_25"></a><a href="#anc_xxxiv_25"><span class="label">[XXXIV_25]</span></a> Strutt, Anglo-Saxons, vol. i. p. 49.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxiv_26" id="footnote-xxxiv_26"></a><a href="#anc_xxxiv_26"><span class="label">[XXXIV_26]</span></a> Id. Ib. p. 48.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxiv_27" id="footnote-xxxiv_27"></a><a href="#anc_xxxiv_27"><span class="label">[XXXIV_27]</span></a> Froissard.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxiv_28" id="footnote-xxxiv_28"></a><a href="#anc_xxxiv_28"><span class="label">[XXXIV_28]</span></a> Saint-Foix, Essais sur Paris.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxiv_29" id="footnote-xxxiv_29"></a><a href="#anc_xxxiv_29"><span class="label">[XXXIV_29]</span></a> Laneham, Sports exhibited at Kenilworth.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxiv_30" id="footnote-xxxiv_30"></a><a href="#anc_xxxiv_30"><span class="label">[XXXIV_30]</span></a> Johan. Sarisburiensis, i. 8, p. 34.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxiv_31" id="footnote-xxxiv_31"></a><a href="#anc_xxxiv_31"><span class="label">[XXXIV_31]</span></a> Saint-Foix, Essais, tom. iv. p. 135.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxiv_32" id="footnote-xxxiv_32"></a><a href="#anc_xxxiv_32"><span class="label">[XXXIV_32]</span></a> Herodot. ii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxiv_33" id="footnote-xxxiv_33"></a><a href="#anc_xxxiv_33"><span class="label">[XXXIV_33]</span></a> Sapient. iii. 4.</p></div> - -<p class="c">XXXV.</p> - -<p class="c">A ROMAN SUPPER.</p> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_1" id="footnote-xxxv_1"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_1"><span class="label">[XXXV_1]</span></a> Genes, xviii.; Esther, v.; Matth. xxii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_2" id="footnote-xxxv_2"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_2"><span class="label">[XXXV_2]</span></a> Plin. xxxv. 10.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_3" id="footnote-xxxv_3"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_3"><span class="label">[XXXV_3]</span></a> Mercurial. De Arte Gymnast, p. 94, edit. Frisii; Apul. -Metamorph. v. In Principio; Id. lib. iv. Asini.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_4" id="footnote-xxxv_4"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_4"><span class="label">[XXXV_4]</span></a> Apul. loc. cit.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_5" id="footnote-xxxv_5"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_5"><span class="label">[XXXV_5]</span></a> Leclerc, Histoire de la Médecine, p. 573.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_6" id="footnote-xxxv_6"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_6"><span class="label">[XXXV_6]</span></a> Apul. lib. i. Apologiæ Suæ, ex Catull.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_7" id="footnote-xxxv_7"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_7"><span class="label">[XXXV_7]</span></a> Sammonic. Seren. De Medicinâ, c. 15.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_8" id="footnote-xxxv_8"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_8"><span class="label">[XXXV_8]</span></a> Plaut. In Captivis, act i. sc. 2, v. 84.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_9" id="footnote-xxxv_9"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_9"><span class="label">[XXXV_9]</span></a> Martial. v. 44.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_10" id="footnote-xxxv_10"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_10"><span class="label">[XXXV_10]</span></a> Plin. vii. 60.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_11" id="footnote-xxxv_11"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_11"><span class="label">[XXXV_11]</span></a> Id. xxxvi. 10.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_12" id="footnote-xxxv_12"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_12"><span class="label">[XXXV_12]</span></a> Turneb. Adversar. xxiii. 19; xxvii. 18.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_13" id="footnote-xxxv_13"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_13"><span class="label">[XXXV_13]</span></a> Theophrast. Charact. 20.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_14" id="footnote-xxxv_14"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_14"><span class="label">[XXXV_14]</span></a> Virgil. Æn. i. v. 729.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_15" id="footnote-xxxv_15"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_15"><span class="label">[XXXV_15]</span></a> Montfaucon, Antiq. Expl.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_16" id="footnote-xxxv_16"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_16"><span class="label">[XXXV_16]</span></a> Petron. à Nodot. tom. i. p. 122.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_17" id="footnote-xxxv_17"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_17"><span class="label">[XXXV_17]</span></a> Plutarch. Problem. Romanor. 76.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_18" id="footnote-xxxv_18"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_18"><span class="label">[XXXV_18]</span></a> Petron. loc. cit.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_19" id="footnote-xxxv_19"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_19"><span class="label">[XXXV_19]</span></a> Terent. Heautontimor. act i. sc. 1.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_20" id="footnote-xxxv_20"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_20"><span class="label">[XXXV_20]</span></a> Octav. Ferrarius, De Re Vestiariâ, i. 31.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_21" id="footnote-xxxv_21"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_21"><span class="label">[XXXV_21]</span></a> Le Pitture Antiche d’Ercolano, tom. i. tav. 14.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_22" id="footnote-xxxv_22"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_22"><span class="label">[XXXV_22]</span></a> Dio. lxix.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_23" id="footnote-xxxv_23"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_23"><span class="label">[XXXV_23]</span></a> Senec. De Vitâ Beatâ; Tibull. iv. 6; Psalm. passim.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_24" id="footnote-xxxv_24"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_24"><span class="label">[XXXV_24]</span></a> Sil. Ital. Punicor. vi.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_25" id="footnote-xxxv_25"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_25"><span class="label">[XXXV_25]</span></a> Petron. Conviv. Trimalcion.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_26" id="footnote-xxxv_26"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_26"><span class="label">[XXXV_26]</span></a> Just. Lips.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_27" id="footnote-xxxv_27"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_27"><span class="label">[XXXV_27]</span></a> Juvenal. Sat. xi.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_28" id="footnote-xxxv_28"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_28"><span class="label">[XXXV_28]</span></a> Pacatus.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_29" id="footnote-xxxv_29"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_29"><span class="label">[XXXV_29]</span></a> Vitruv. Architect. v. 8.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_30" id="footnote-xxxv_30"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_30"><span class="label">[XXXV_30]</span></a> Quintilian. Institut. Orator. i. 14.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_31" id="footnote-xxxv_31"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_31"><span class="label">[XXXV_31]</span></a> Valer. Maxim, ii. 1.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_32" id="footnote-xxxv_32"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_32"><span class="label">[XXXV_32]</span></a> Arnob. ii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_33" id="footnote-xxxv_33"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_33"><span class="label">[XXXV_33]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_34" id="footnote-xxxv_34"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_34"><span class="label">[XXXV_34]</span></a> Quintilian. Declamat. 301.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_35" id="footnote-xxxv_35"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_35"><span class="label">[XXXV_35]</span></a> Juvenal. Sat. v. 32; vi. 154.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_36" id="footnote-xxxv_36"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_36"><span class="label">[XXXV_36]</span></a> Terent. Eunuch, act. i. sc. 2, v. 85.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_37" id="footnote-xxxv_37"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_37"><span class="label">[XXXV_37]</span></a> Virgil. Æn. v.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_38" id="footnote-xxxv_38"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_38"><span class="label">[XXXV_38]</span></a> Cic. ad Familiar. ix. 20.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_39" id="footnote-xxxv_39"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_39"><span class="label">[XXXV_39]</span></a> Horat. Sat. ix. 8, 9.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_40" id="footnote-xxxv_40"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_40"><span class="label">[XXXV_40]</span></a> Petron. à Nodot. tom. i. p. 124.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_41" id="footnote-xxxv_41"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_41"><span class="label">[XXXV_41]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_42" id="footnote-xxxv_42"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_42"><span class="label">[XXXV_42]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_43" id="footnote-xxxv_43"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_43"><span class="label">[XXXV_43]</span></a> Apicius, ii. 1.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_44" id="footnote-xxxv_44"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_44"><span class="label">[XXXV_44]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_45" id="footnote-xxxv_45"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_45"><span class="label">[XXXV_45]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_46" id="footnote-xxxv_46"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_46"><span class="label">[XXXV_46]</span></a> Petron. p. 128.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_47" id="footnote-xxxv_47"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_47"><span class="label">[XXXV_47]</span></a> Athen. iv.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_48" id="footnote-xxxv_48"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_48"><span class="label">[XXXV_48]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_49" id="footnote-xxxv_49"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_49"><span class="label">[XXXV_49]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_50" id="footnote-xxxv_50"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_50"><span class="label">[XXXV_50]</span></a> Petron. tom. i. p. 130.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_51" id="footnote-xxxv_51"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_51"><span class="label">[XXXV_51]</span></a> Alex. Trallian. lib. Problem 1.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_52" id="footnote-xxxv_52"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_52"><span class="label">[XXXV_52]</span></a> Aul. Gell. xv. 2.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_53" id="footnote-xxxv_53"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_53"><span class="label">[XXXV_53]</span></a> Plutarch. Sympos. i. Quæst. 4.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_54" id="footnote-xxxv_54"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_54"><span class="label">[XXXV_54]</span></a> Martial. vi. 89.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_55" id="footnote-xxxv_55"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_55"><span class="label">[XXXV_55]</span></a> Id. iii. 8.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_56" id="footnote-xxxv_56"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_56"><span class="label">[XXXV_56]</span></a> Lucan. Pharsal. lib. iii. carm. 14.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_57" id="footnote-xxxv_57"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_57"><span class="label">[XXXV_57]</span></a> Athen. iii. 21.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_58" id="footnote-xxxv_58"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_58"><span class="label">[XXXV_58]</span></a> Virgil. Georg. ii. 528.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_59" id="footnote-xxxv_59"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_59"><span class="label">[XXXV_59]</span></a> Martial. xiii. 52.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_60" id="footnote-xxxv_60"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_60"><span class="label">[XXXV_60]</span></a> Plin.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_61" id="footnote-xxxv_61"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_61"><span class="label">[XXXV_61]</span></a> Martial. iii. 5.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_62" id="footnote-xxxv_62"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_62"><span class="label">[XXXV_62]</span></a> Id. xiii. 71.</p></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_443" id="page_443"></a>{443}</span></p> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_63" id="footnote-xxxv_63"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_63"><span class="label">[XXXV_63]</span></a> Juvenal. i. 141.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_64" id="footnote-xxxv_64"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_64"><span class="label">[XXXV_64]</span></a> Petron. à Nodot, tom. i. p. 136.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_65" id="footnote-xxxv_65"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_65"><span class="label">[XXXV_65]</span></a> Martial. xiii. 44.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_66" id="footnote-xxxv_66"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_66"><span class="label">[XXXV_66]</span></a> Id. xiii. 56.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_67" id="footnote-xxxv_67"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_67"><span class="label">[XXXV_67]</span></a> Id. xiii. 55.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_68" id="footnote-xxxv_68"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_68"><span class="label">[XXXV_68]</span></a> Petron. tom. i. p. 130.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_69" id="footnote-xxxv_69"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_69"><span class="label">[XXXV_69]</span></a> Id. p. 136.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_70" id="footnote-xxxv_70"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_70"><span class="label">[XXXV_70]</span></a> Martial. iii. 82.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_71" id="footnote-xxxv_71"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_71"><span class="label">[XXXV_71]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_72" id="footnote-xxxv_72"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_72"><span class="label">[XXXV_72]</span></a> Horat. Sat. ii. 8, 86.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_73" id="footnote-xxxv_73"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_73"><span class="label">[XXXV_73]</span></a> Petron. p. 138.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_74" id="footnote-xxxv_74"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_74"><span class="label">[XXXV_74]</span></a> Martial. i. 62.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_75" id="footnote-xxxv_75"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_75"><span class="label">[XXXV_75]</span></a> Petron. p. 132.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_76" id="footnote-xxxv_76"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_76"><span class="label">[XXXV_76]</span></a> Id. Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_77" id="footnote-xxxv_77"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_77"><span class="label">[XXXV_77]</span></a> Virgil. Æn. ii. 49.</p></div> - - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_78" id="footnote-xxxv_78"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_78"><span class="label">[XXXV_78]</span></a> Plaut. Cur. i. 3, 15.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_79" id="footnote-xxxv_79"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_79"><span class="label">[XXXV_79]</span></a> Encyclop. Méthod. Antiquités.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_80" id="footnote-xxxv_80"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_80"><span class="label">[XXXV_80]</span></a> Plaut. In Sticho.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_81" id="footnote-xxxv_81"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_81"><span class="label">[XXXV_81]</span></a> Sueton. In Galba.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_82" id="footnote-xxxv_82"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_82"><span class="label">[XXXV_82]</span></a> Juvenal. Sat. xi.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_83" id="footnote-xxxv_83"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_83"><span class="label">[XXXV_83]</span></a> Gell. xiii. 11.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_84" id="footnote-xxxv_84"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_84"><span class="label">[XXXV_84]</span></a> Martial. v. 79.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_85" id="footnote-xxxv_85"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_85"><span class="label">[XXXV_85]</span></a> Fest. Paniroll. tom. ii. tit. 2, De Porcellanis.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_86" id="footnote-xxxv_86"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_86"><span class="label">[XXXV_86]</span></a> Nicephor. Gregoras; Manilius; Nicetas; Vopiscus.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_87" id="footnote-xxxv_87"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_87"><span class="label">[XXXV_87]</span></a> Casaub. In Athen. i. 15.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_88" id="footnote-xxxv_88"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_88"><span class="label">[XXXV_88]</span></a> Xenoph. In Conviv.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_89" id="footnote-xxxv_89"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_89"><span class="label">[XXXV_89]</span></a> Herodot. vi. 129.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_90" id="footnote-xxxv_90"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_90"><span class="label">[XXXV_90]</span></a> Xenoph. loc. cit.; Caylus, Recueil d’Antiquités. tom. -i. p. 202.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_91" id="footnote-xxxv_91"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_91"><span class="label">[XXXV_91]</span></a> Caylus, Ib.; Athen. iv.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_92" id="footnote-xxxv_92"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_92"><span class="label">[XXXV_92]</span></a> Socrat. In Conviv. Xenoph.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_93" id="footnote-xxxv_93"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_93"><span class="label">[XXXV_93]</span></a> Horat. Sat. lib. ii. 7, v. 82.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_94" id="footnote-xxxv_94"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_94"><span class="label">[XXXV_94]</span></a> Caylus, tom. iv. pl. 80, No. 1; tom. vi. pl. 90, No. -3; tom. vii. p. 164.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_95" id="footnote-xxxv_95"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_95"><span class="label">[XXXV_95]</span></a> Vet. Scholiast. Juvenal. ad v. 162, sat. 11.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_96" id="footnote-xxxv_96"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_96"><span class="label">[XXXV_96]</span></a> Rosinus, Antiquit. Roman. p. 391.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_97" id="footnote-xxxv_97"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_97"><span class="label">[XXXV_97]</span></a> Macrob. Saturnal. ii. 1.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_98" id="footnote-xxxv_98"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_98"><span class="label">[XXXV_98]</span></a> Rosinus, Ib.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="footnote-xxxv_99" id="footnote-xxxv_99"></a><a href="#anc_xxxv_99"><span class="label">[XXXV_99]</span></a> Id. p. 410.</p></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_444" id="page_444"></a>{444}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="TABLE_OF_RECIPES" id="TABLE_OF_RECIPES"></a>TABLE OF RECIPES<br /><br /> -OF<br /> -<br /> -<span class="eng">Ancient Cookery, and for the making of various Dishes.</span></h2> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr><td> </td><td align="right"><small>Page</small></td></tr> -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center">SEEDS.</th></tr> - -<tr><td>Mustard, its influence and qualities</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_046">46</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Coriander, its properties</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_047">47</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Lupin, fit for fattening cattle</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_047">47</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center">VEGETABLES.</th></tr> -<tr><td>Method of preserving vegetables</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_051">51</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Twelfth-Night cake</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_054">54</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Haricots preserved</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_056">56</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Apicius’s method of dressing cabbages</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_061">61</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Dried cauliflowers</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_061">61</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Beet, its medicinal qualities</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_062">62</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Apicius, on stewing the beet</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_063">63</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Beet-root as a salad</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_063">63</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Mallows as a salad</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_064">64</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>How to keep asparagus several days</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_065">65</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>How to cook the gourd</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_066">66</a>, <a href="#page_067">67</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Turnips, how to dress</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_067">67</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Carrots as a salad, and otherwise</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_068">68</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Purslaine, its internal use</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_069">69</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Sorrel, stewed</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_069">69</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Method of rendering artichoke mild</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_071">71</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Way of dressing</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_071">71</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>How to preserve them</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_071">71</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Pompion, how to dress it; three recipes</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_072">72</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Cucumber; four recipes</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_073">73</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Apicius’s œnogarum</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_073">73</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Lettuce, method of cultivation by Aristoxenus</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_074">74</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>How to dress lettuces</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_075">75</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Endives, way of stewing them<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_445" id="page_445">{445}</a></span></td><td align="right"><a href="#page_076">76</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Onions, stewed</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_076">76</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Leeks, stewed</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_077">77</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Radishes, how to preserve them</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_079">79</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Horse-radish, its virtues</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_081">81</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Garlic, its qualities</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_082">82</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Parsley, stewed</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_082">82</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Chervil, how used</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_084">84</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Water-cress, its properties</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_085">85</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center">PLANTS USED IN SEASONING.</th></tr> - -<tr><td>Poppy, how used</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_086">86</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Sow-thistle, good for rabbits</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_087">87</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Rocket, good for removing freckles</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_087">87</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Fennel, good for strengthening the sight</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_088">88</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Dill, its qualities</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_088">88</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Anise-seed, its properties</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_088">88</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Hyssop, good for cutaneous eruptions</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_089">89</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Wild marjoram, a most delicate condiment, -&c.</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_089">89</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Savory, its usefulness</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_089">89</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Thyme, its culinary value</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_089">89</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Wild thyme, efficacious, for the bite of -serpents</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_089">89</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Sweet marjoram, oil extracted from it</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_089">89</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Pennyroyal, a digestive</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_090">90</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Rue, a cure for the ear-ache</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_090">90</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Mint, a preservative against curdling -of milk</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_090">90</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Assafœtida, chewed by the Persians -and Indians</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_092">92</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Ginger, an aperitive good for the -scurvy and the chest</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_092">92</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Wormwood, good for giddiness</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_093">93</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center">STONE FRUIT.</th></tr> - -<tr><td>Olive tree, preparation of its fruit</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_098">98</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>—— and qualities</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_099">99</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Dates, their various uses</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_101">101</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Peaches, how to preserve them</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_104">104</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center">PIP FRUIT.</th></tr> - -<tr><td>Quinces, how to preserve them</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_107">107</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Pears, strengthening qualities</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_107">107</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Lemons, method of preserving</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_110">110</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Mulberry, a beneficent fruit, agreeable -to the stomach, and digestible</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_116">116</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center">SHELL FRUIT.</th></tr> - -<tr><td>Almonds, how to dress them, and their -various properties</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_117">117</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Walnuts, considered astringent, stomachic, -an antidote to poison, and digestible</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_119">119</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Pistachios, good however dressed</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_121">121</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Chesnuts, how to preserve</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_122">122</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Pomegranate, preserving</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_123">123</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center">REARING OF CATTLE.</th></tr> - -<tr><td>Oxen, how to fatten them</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_128">128</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Method of salting and preserving meat</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_131">131</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center">THE PIG.</th></tr> - -<tr><td>Hog à la Troyenne</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_136">136</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Apician brine, for salting pork</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_138">138</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Apician pork</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_138">138</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Macedonian pork</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_138">138</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Stuffed sucking pig</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_139">139</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Aristoxenic ham</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_139">139</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Lucullian ham</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_139">139</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Ventre de truie à la Troyenne</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_139">139</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Ditto à la Romaine</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_139">139</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Fillet of pork à la Bœotienne</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_139">139</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Tétines de truie à la Salienne</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_140">140</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Ditto à la Flamine</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_140">140</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Olympian pig’s liver</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_140">140</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Capitolian pig’s liver</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_140">140</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Campanian bacon</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_140">140</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Quenelles of pig’s liver and brains</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_140">140</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Lucanian sausages</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_140">140</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Imperial sausages</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_141">141</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center">THE OX.</th></tr> - -<tr><td>Beef à l’Ibérienne</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_144">144</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Stewed beef à la Sarmate</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_144">144</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Dish of veal à la Syracusaine</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_144">144</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Noix de veau à la Tarantaise</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_144">144</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Cisalpine preserve</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_145">145</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center">THE LAMB.</th></tr> - -<tr><td>Lamb’s head à la Quirinale</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_147">147</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Quarter of lamb à l’Esquilon</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_147">147</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Palatine broil</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_147">147</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Roast lamb à la Phrygienne</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_147">147</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Lamb à la Trimalcion</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_147">147</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center">THE KID.</th></tr> - -<tr><td>Kid à la Trans-Tibérienne</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_149">149</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Roast Kid à la Janiculum</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_149">149</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Kid à la Tarpéienne</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_149">149</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Kid à la Tivoli</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_149">149</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Kid à la Mélisienne<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_446" - id="page_446">{446}</a></span></td><td align="right"><a href="#page_149">149</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center">POULTRY.</th></tr> - -<tr><td>Capon à la Déliaque</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_155">155</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center">THE HEN.</th></tr> - -<tr><td>Poularde à la Viminale</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_156">156</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center">THE CHICKEN.</th></tr> - -<tr><td>Apician Macedonia of chicken</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_157">157</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Parthian chicken</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_157">157</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Numidian chicken</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_157">157</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Chicken à la Frontonienne</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_157">157</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Chicken à la Cœlienne</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_157">157</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center">THE DUCK.</th></tr> - -<tr><td>Ducks’ brains à l’Epicurienne</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_159">159</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Apicius’s seasoning for wild duck</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_159">159</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center">THE GOOSE.</th></tr> - -<tr><td>Sejus’s seasoning</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_161">161</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Apician seasoning for roast goose’s liver</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_161">161</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Boiled goose à la Gauloise</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_161">161</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center">THE PIGEON.</th></tr> - -<tr><td>Roast pigeon, with Servilian seasoning</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_163">163</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center">THE GUINEA HEN.</th></tr> - -<tr><td>Guinea hen à la Numide</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_163">163</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center">THE TURKEY HEN.</th></tr> - -<tr><td>Turkey à l’Africaine</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_165">165</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>How to fatten turkey</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_165">165</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Turkey’s eggs more delicate than hen’s eggs</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_166">166</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>How to preserve turkey</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_166">166</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center">THE PEACOCK.</th></tr> - -<tr><td>Peacock of Samos</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_167">167</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center">EGGS.</th></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center">MILK.</th></tr> - -<tr><td>Hygeian qualities of milk</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_169">169</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Asses’ milk, good in weak constitutions</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_169">169</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Macédoine Germanique of milk</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_170">170</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center">BUTTER.</th></tr> - -<tr><td>Method of preserving butter</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_172">172</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Method of preventing rancidity</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_172">172</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center">CHEESE.</th></tr> - -<tr><td>Salad of cheese, à la Bithynienne</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_174">174</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Dish of Tromelian cheese</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_174">174</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Cheese of Rouergue</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_174">174</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center">EGGS.</th></tr> - -<tr><td>Eggs à la Romaine</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_177">177</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Hard eggs à l’Athénienne</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_177">177</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Fried eggs à l’Epœnète</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_177">177</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Egyptian egg pudding</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_177">177</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Lesbian eggs aux roses</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_177">177</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center">THE STAG.</th></tr> - -<tr><td>Quarter of stag roast à l’Nêméenne</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_183">183</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Shoulder of stag à l’Hortensius</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_183">183</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Fillet of stag à la Persane</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_183">183</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center">THE ROEBUCK.</th></tr> - -<tr><td>Roebuck with spikenard</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_184">184</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Roebuck aux prunes</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_184">184</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Roebuck aux Amandes de Pin</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_184">184</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center">THE DEER.</th></tr> - -<tr><td>Deer à la Marcellus</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_185">185</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center">THE WILD BOAR.</th></tr> - -<tr><td>Wild boar à la Troyenne</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_185">185</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Wild boar à la Pompée</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_187">187</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Quarter of wild boar à la Thebaine</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_187">187</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Fillet of wild boar à la Macédonienne</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_187">187</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Wild boar’s liver à la Grecque</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_187">187</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Wild boar’s head à la Cantabre</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_187">187</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Green ham of wild boar à la Gauloise</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_187">187</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center">ELEPHANT.</th></tr> - -<tr><td>Elephant’s feet roasted</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_192">192</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center">FEATHERED GAME.</th></tr> - -<tr><td>Pheasant’s flesh, good for weak stomachs</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_195">195</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Starling, a nourishing and light food</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_200">200</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Fig-pecker, an exquisite bird</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_203">203</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Ortolan, has the same reputation</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_203">203</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Ostrich, fatted and salted</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_203">203</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Ostrich’s eggs, enormous, how to cook them</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_204">204</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Ostrich’s fat, used in the preparation of dishes; cures rheumatism and paralysis<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_447" id="page_447">{447}</a></span></td><td align="right"><a href="#page_204">204</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Salangan’s nest, a delicious seasoning</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_205">205</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Salangan’s nest, good for exhaustion and debile stomachs</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_205">205</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Salangan’s nest, makes a fortifying pottage</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_206">206</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Snipe, delicate savour of the fat</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_207">207</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Snipe, how to find, when in perfection</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_207">207</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Lark, its supposed property</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_207">207</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>The common lark, wholesome and delicate</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_237">237</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center">FISH.</th></tr> - -<tr><td>Caviar, how manufactured</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_217">217</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Mullet, way of dressing</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_219">219</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Lamprey, Italian method of cooking</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_223">223</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Scarus, an epicurean dish</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_224">224</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Conger-eel, how dressed</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_226">226</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Eel, Apicius’s recipe</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_227">227</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Pike, preserved</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_228">228</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Carp, curious way of dressing</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_229">229</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Eel-pout, how to dress the liver</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_229">229</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Trout, dressed as the preceding</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_230">230</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Gold-fish, how served</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_230">230</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Whiting, manner of cooking</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_231">231</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Cod-fish, how cooked by the Greeks</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_231">231</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Perch, way of dressing</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_232">232</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Scates, the eggs excellent for intermittent fever</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_233">233</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Sepia, Apicius’s recipe</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_234">234</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Swordfish, how dressed by the Greeks</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_234">234</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Shad, way it is cooked</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_234">234</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Rhombo, a delicate fish, how dressed</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_235">235</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Mugil, how prepared</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_235">235</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Loligo, how prepared</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_237">237</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Sole, a nourishing and light food</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_237">237</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Pilchard, way of cooking</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_238">238</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Loach, how dressed</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_238">238</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Gudgeons, how dressed</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_239">239</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Herring, methods of preserving</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_240">240</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Anchovy, how salted and how dressed</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_241">241</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Emphractum stew</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_242">242</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Oysters, how dressed at Rome</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_243">243</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Oysters, how preserved</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_244">244</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Sea-hedgehog, way of cooking</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_245">245</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Mussel, how dressed</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_245">245</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Tortoise, the blood supposed to cure diseases of the eyes, how dressed</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_246">246</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Sea crayfish, Roman way of dressing</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_247">247</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Lobster, how cooked</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_248">248</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>River crayfish, how dressed and preserved</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_248">248</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Crab sausages</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_248">248</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Frogs, how dressed</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_249">249</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Preserving of fish</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_251">251</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center">SAUCE AND SEASONING.</th></tr> - -<tr><td>Sauce à la Cameline</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_258">258</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Tence sauce</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_258">258</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Brine, how made</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_269">269</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Digestive salt, how made</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_269">269</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Garum, various recipes</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_270">270</a> & <a href="#page_271">271</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Digestive garum (Apicius)</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_272">272</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Wonderful seasoning of Apicius</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_274">274</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Oxyporon seasoning</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_274">274</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Honey, its medicinal properties</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_276">276</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Cinnamon, its medicinal properties</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_276">276</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Greek and Roman pickles</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_278">278</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Truffles, Apicius’s method of preparing</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_280">280</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Syrup of truffles, how made</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_280">280</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Truffles, medicinal quality</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_281">281</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Truffles, how to preserve</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_281">281</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>The Emperor Verus’s pie, how made</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_287">287</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Cato’s cake, how made</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_287">287</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Ancient pie, the placenta, how made</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_287">287</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Globi, method of making</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_288">288</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Apicius’s globi, three recipes</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_289">289</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Original pastry, its progress, how made</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_291">291</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Darioles, how composed</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_292">292</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Curious tarts</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_292">292</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center">WATER.</th></tr> - -<tr><td>Aristotle’s method of obtaining ice</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_295">295</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center">BEVERAGES.</th></tr> - -<tr><td>Zythum and Curmi, how composed</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_299">299</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Strong ale, how to make a hogshead</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_302">302</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Bracket, way of making</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_303">303</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Ptisana, recipe</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_304">304</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Oxycratus, do.</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_304">304</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Sicera, made of grain, honey, or fruit</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_304">304</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Hydromel, method of making it</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_304">304</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Hydromelon, how composed</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_305">305</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Hydrorosatum, simple addition to the preceding</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_305">305</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Apomeli, simple recipe</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_305">305</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Omphacomeli, ingenious mixture</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_305">305</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Myrtites, aromatic drink</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_305">305</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Date wine, how made</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_305">305</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Artificial wines</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_305">305</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Nero’s refreshing water</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_305">305</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center">TEA.</th></tr> - -<tr><td>Various teas, how manufactured</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_306">306</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center">COFFEE.</th></tr> - -<tr><td>Various qualities of coffee<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_448" id="page_448">{448}</a></span></td><td align="right"><a href="#page_310">310</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Coffee, made with roasted rye</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_311">311</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Coffee, with chicory</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_311">311</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Coffee, made with lupin</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_311">311</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Coffee, its medicinal properties</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_311">311</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Coffee, its physical effects</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_312">312</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center">CHOCOLATE.</th></tr> - -<tr><td>Various kinds of cocoa</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_313">313</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Chocolate, how manufactured</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_313">313</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Chiapa, perfumed chocolate</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_314">314</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Chocolate, its properties</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_314">314</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center">WINE.</th></tr> - -<tr><td>Grapes, way of preserving fresh</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_325">325</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Wine, method of making</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_325">325</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Piquette, simple way of obtaining it</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_326">326</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Carenum, how obtained</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_326">326</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Defrutum, how obtained</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_326">326</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Sapa, how obtained</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_326">326</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Wine, how to preserve it</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_326">326</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Preparation of dolia for wine</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_327">327</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Wine, how to fine it</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_327">327</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Athenæus’s opinion of old wine</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_329">329</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Difference of properties between white -and red wines</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_329">329</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Process of preparation for Chios wine</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_330">330</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Passum wine</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_320">320</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Dulce wine</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_330">330</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Mulsum wine</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_331">331</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Anisites wine</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_331">331</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Rosatum wine, Apicius’s recipe</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_331">331</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Violatum wine</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_331">331</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Myrrhinum wine</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_331">331</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center">LIQUEUR WINE.</th></tr> - -<tr><td>Various composition of liqueurs, herbs employed</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_333">333</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Liqueur wine for Greek and Roman ladies</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_333">333</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Wormwood wine, how made, its properties</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_334">334</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Bitter liqueurs, how obtained</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_334">334</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Myrtle wine, its properties</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_334">334</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Adynamon wine, its properties</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_335">335</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Œnanthinum wine</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_335">335</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Burgundy and Champagne wines</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_336">336</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Ypocras, how composed</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_338">338</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Clarey, how composed</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_338">338</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" align="center">REPASTS.<br /> -<br /><small>ROMAN SUPPER</small>.</th></tr> - -<tr><td>Fly dishes, or dormice, what they consist of</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_390">390</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Champignon and egg sausages, how made</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_390">390</a></td></tr> -<tr><td>Grasshoppers, how prepared and cooked</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_390">390</a></td></tr> - -</table> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_449" id="page_449"></a>{449}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="INDEX" id="INDEX"></a>INDEX.</h2> - -<p class="c"><a href="#A">A</a>, -<a href="#B">B</a>, -<a href="#C">C</a>, -<a href="#D">D</a>, -<a href="#E">E</a>, -<a href="#F">F</a>, -<a href="#G">G</a>, -<a href="#H">H</a>, -<a href="#I-i">I</a>, -<a href="#J">J</a>, -<a href="#K">K</a>, -<a href="#L">L</a>, -<a href="#M">M</a>, -<a href="#N">N</a>, -<a href="#O">O</a>, -<a href="#P">P</a>, -<a href="#Q">Q</a>, -<a href="#R">R</a>, -<a href="#S">S</a>, -<a href="#T">T</a>, -<a href="#U">U</a>, -<a href="#V-i">V</a>, -<a href="#W">W</a>, -<a href="#X-i">X</a>, -<a href="#Y">Y</a>, -<a href="#Z">Z</a></p> - -<p class="nind"> -<a name="A" id="A"></a>Abacus, sideboard, <a href="#page_264">264</a><br /> -Abderites, give up their soil to frogs, <a href="#page_249">249</a><br /> -Ablution, <a href="#page_382">382</a>, <a href="#page_388">388</a><br /> -Ablutions, before supper, <a href="#page_372">372</a><br /> -Acerræ, vases for perfumes, <a href="#page_389">389</a><br /> -Acetabulum, vinegar cruet, <a href="#page_264">264</a><br /> -Acetaria, pickles of the ancients, <a href="#page_064">64</a><br /> -Achilles turned the spit, <a href="#page_253">253</a><br /> -Acorns, a primitive food, <a href="#page_023">23</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ eaten by the Spaniards, <a href="#page_024">24</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ a substitute for wheat, <a href="#page_024">24</a></span><br /> -Acratism, breakfast, <a href="#page_342">342</a><br /> -Acrobats, known to the ancients, <a href="#page_395">395</a><br /> -Adephagia, the goddess of good cheer, <a href="#page_256">256</a><br /> -Adrian’s regulations respecting cattle, <a href="#page_127">127</a><br /> -Adversitores, Roman footmen, <a href="#page_377">377</a><br /> -Adynamon wine, <a href="#page_334">334</a><br /> -Æsopus’ dish of singing birds, <a href="#page_193">193</a><br /> -Agapæ, love feasts, <a href="#page_346">346</a><br /> -Agricultural Society of England (the Royal), <a href="#page_016">16</a>, <a href="#page_410">410</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ trophy, <a href="#page_411">411</a></span><br /> -Agriculture, <a href="#page_009">9</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ its origin, <a href="#page_009">9</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ developed the industry of the Jews, <a href="#page_011">11</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ very ancient in Egypt, <a href="#page_012">12</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ highly respected by the Roman Senate, <a href="#page_013">13</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ first treatise on, <a href="#page_016">16</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ honours paid to, <a href="#page_016">16</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ protected by Charles IX. of France, <a href="#page_018">18</a></span><br /> -Aï wine, <a href="#page_337">337</a><br /> -Albanum wine, <a href="#page_329">329</a><br /> -Albert, banquets offered to H. R. H. Prince, <a href="#page_403">403</a><br /> -Alcibiades’ banquet, <a href="#page_355">355</a><br /> -Ale, its ancient reputation, <a href="#page_301">301</a><br /> -“ its curative properties, <a href="#page_301">301</a><br /> -“ how it was made in England, <a href="#page_302">302</a><br /> -Ale, its price under Edward II., <a href="#page_302">302</a><br /> -Alec, a kind of brine, <a href="#page_240">240</a>, <a href="#page_271">271</a><br /> -Alexander the Great discovered the eschalot, <a href="#page_082">82</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ was fond of apples, <a href="#page_108">108</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ an admirer of peacocks, <a href="#page_166">166</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ his magnificent banquet, <a href="#page_357">357</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ his silver arm-chairs, <a href="#page_372">372</a></span><br /> -Alfred the Great a renowned hunter, <a href="#page_181">181</a><br /> -Alisander, a valuable remedy, <a href="#page_091">91</a><br /> -Almond tree, <a href="#page_117">117</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ a native of Paphlagonia, <a href="#page_117">117</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ highly valued in the East, <a href="#page_117">117</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ how to augment its fertility, <a href="#page_117">117</a></span><br /> -Almonds, Apician preparation of, <a href="#page_117">117</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ eaten before drinking, <a href="#page_117">117</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ oil extracted from, <a href="#page_117">117</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ paste obtained from, <a href="#page_118">118</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ their various uses, <a href="#page_118">118</a></span><br /> -Alose sauce, <a href="#page_258">258</a><br /> -Alphonso of Castile, his repugnance to garlic, <a href="#page_081">81</a><br /> -Amalthæa, the goat, <a href="#page_023">23</a><br /> -Amboise (George d’), Archbishop of Rouen, <a href="#page_172">172</a><br /> -Ambrosia, the food of the gods, <a href="#page_023">23</a><br /> -Amphis, despised horse-radishes, <a href="#page_080">80</a><br /> -Amphoræ, vases used for wine, <a href="#page_328">328</a>, <a href="#page_390">390</a><br /> -Ampulla, a crystal bottle, <a href="#page_296">296</a><br /> -Amusements of the guests, <a href="#page_383">383</a><br /> -Anacreon sung parsley, <a href="#page_083">83</a><br /> -Anaphe, an island desolated by hares, <a href="#page_188">188</a><br /> -Anchovies, <a href="#page_240">240</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ how preserved, <a href="#page_240">240</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ supplied a kind of garum, <a href="#page_240">240</a>, <a href="#page_270">270</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ how cooked, <a href="#page_241">241</a></span><br /> -Andalusia, renowned for its olives, <a href="#page_098">98</a><br /> -Anecdote, severity of Pygmalion, <a href="#page_125">125</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ the eggs of Petronius, <a href="#page_201">201</a></span><br /> -Angel-fish, its size, <a href="#page_237">237</a><br /> -Anglo-Saxons, devoted to agriculture, 17<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_450" id="page_450"></a>{450}</span><br /> -Anglo-Saxons, their rural occupations, <a href="#page_017">17</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ their culinary utensils, <a href="#page_346">346</a></span><br /> -Animal food added to vegetables, <a href="#page_123">123</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ when first introduced, <a href="#page_124">124</a></span><br /> -Animals, <a href="#page_133">133</a><br /> -Anise-seed, extolled by Pythagoras, <a href="#page_088">88</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ recommended by Pliny, <a href="#page_088">88</a></span><br /> -Anisites wine, <a href="#page_331">331</a><br /> -Anna Perenna, a protectress of flocks, <a href="#page_128">128</a><br /> -Antecœna, first course, <a href="#page_390">390</a><br /> -Antidote of Mithridates, <a href="#page_119">119</a><br /> -Antiphanus, a patron of quails, <a href="#page_197">197</a><br /> -Antony was fond of fishing, <a href="#page_250">250</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ his liberality towards a cook, <a href="#page_256">256</a></span><br /> -Apician pork, <a href="#page_138">138</a><br /> -Apicii, the three, <a href="#page_200">200</a><br /> -Apicius, he killed himself, <a href="#page_051">51</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ his gastronomic treatise, <a href="#page_200">200</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ his prize for a new brine, <a href="#page_213">213</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ his voyage to Africa, <a href="#page_247">247</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ his cakes, <a href="#page_289">289</a></span><br /> -Apollo was an ichthyophagist, <a href="#page_210">210</a><br /> -Apomeli, a kind of beverage, <a href="#page_305">305</a><br /> -Appetite, its three degrees, <a href="#page_255">255</a><br /> -Appius Claudius’ aqueduct, <a href="#page_295">295</a><br /> -Apple tree in Greece, <a href="#page_108">108</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ seldom mentioned in Holy Writ, <a href="#page_108">108</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ cultivated by the Latins, <a href="#page_109">109</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ introduced into Gaul, <a href="#page_109">109</a></span><br /> -Apples, named after eminent personages, <a href="#page_109">109</a><br /> -Apricot tree, <a href="#page_103">103</a><br /> -Apricots, their price in Rome, <a href="#page_103">103</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ how prepared, <a href="#page_104">104</a></span><br /> -Apronian cherry, <a href="#page_103">103</a><br /> -Apronianus, his decree respecting the Roman butchers, <a href="#page_130">130</a><br /> -Aqueducts of Rome, <a href="#page_294">294</a><br /> -Archestrates, his culinary meditations, <a href="#page_254">254</a><br /> -Archimagirus, chief cook, <a href="#page_256">256</a>, <a href="#page_260">260</a><br /> -Argonauts, they discovered the pheasant, <a href="#page_194">194</a><br /> -Aristœus, the inventor of oil mills, <a href="#page_097">97</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ “ of cheese, <a href="#page_173">173</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ discovered honey, <a href="#page_273">273</a></span><br /> -Aristocracy of England, its munificent hospitality, <a href="#page_384">384</a><br /> -Aristoxenic ham, <a href="#page_139">139</a><br /> -Aristoxenus, his lettuces, <a href="#page_074">74</a><br /> -Armeniaca, apricot tree, <a href="#page_103">103</a><br /> -Artemidorus, regulated the culinary language, <a href="#page_254">254</a><br /> -Artichoke, known to the ancients, <a href="#page_070">70</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ despised by Galen, <a href="#page_070">70</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ sung by Columella, <a href="#page_070">70</a></span><br /> -Artichoke, forgotten during a long period, <a href="#page_070">70</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ their preparation, <a href="#page_071">71</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ how to render them mild, <a href="#page_071">71</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ how preserved, <a href="#page_071">71</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ when introduced into England, <a href="#page_052">52</a></span><br /> -Artificial dishes, <a href="#page_260">260</a><br /> -“ wines, <a href="#page_305">305</a><br /> -Artocreas, a kind of pie, <a href="#page_265">265</a>, <a href="#page_286">286</a><br /> -Artolaganos, a kind of bread, <a href="#page_032">32</a><br /> -Artoplites, <a href="#page_038">38</a><br /> -Artopticius panis, <a href="#page_038">38</a><br /> -Arvales brothers, instituted by Romulus, <a href="#page_013">13</a><br /> -Asafœtida, esteemed by the ancients, <a href="#page_091">91</a><br /> -“ extraction of its resin, <a href="#page_092">92</a><br /> -Ascalon, the native place of eschalots, <a href="#page_082">82</a><br /> -Asparagus, <a href="#page_084">84</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ brought from Asia; grown at Ravenna, <a href="#page_065">65</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ Roman; their size; how prepared, <a href="#page_065">65</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ boiled; how preserved; hurtful to the sight, <a href="#page_065">65</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ when introduced into England, <a href="#page_052">52</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ wine, <a href="#page_333">333</a></span><br /> -Ass, its flesh forbidden to the Jews; patronised by Mecænas, <a href="#page_150">150</a><br /> -Asses used in Roman mills, <a href="#page_026">26</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ milk beneficial to Francis I., <a href="#page_169">169</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ “ cheese obtained from it, <a href="#page_173">173</a></span><br /> -Astrologicus panis, a sort of bread, <a href="#page_038">38</a><br /> -Astydamas, a great eater, <a href="#page_339">339</a><br /> -Athelstan, a promoter of the art of venery, <a href="#page_181">181</a><br /> -Athenæus praises the Damascus plum, <a href="#page_105">105</a><br /> -Athenians, their epicurism, <a href="#page_126">126</a><br /> -Athletæ, fed on figs, <a href="#page_113">113</a><br /> -Atriensis, hall-keeper, <a href="#page_376">376</a><br /> -Atrium, hall, <a href="#page_376">376</a><br /> -Attalus fond of gardening, <a href="#page_059">59</a><br /> -Attica, its pomegranates, <a href="#page_122">122</a><br /> -Augurs, their banquet, <a href="#page_357">357</a><br /> -Augustus, cured by lettuces, <a href="#page_075">75</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ was fond of cheese, <a href="#page_174">174</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ his sumptuary regulations, <a href="#page_347">347</a></span><br /> -Autopyron, a coarse bread, <a href="#page_037">37</a><br /> -Aveline, filbert, <a href="#page_120">120</a><br /> -Avena, vats, <a href="#page_020">20</a><br /> -Aviaries for thrushes, <a href="#page_198">198</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ Varro’s, <a href="#page_198">198</a></span><br /> -Aymar’s table of massive gold, <a href="#page_370">370</a><br /> -Azumos, a sort of bread, <a href="#page_032">32</a><br /> -<br /> -<a name="B" id="B"></a>Babylon, her celebrated gardens, 59<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_451" id="page_451"></a>{451}</span><br /> -Bacchus, protector of the grapes; ripened the figs, <a href="#page_095">95</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ kills a goat, <a href="#page_124">124</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ the same as Osiris; cultivated the vine, <a href="#page_322">322</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ worshipped by the Romans, <a href="#page_324">324</a></span><br /> -Bacon, a substitute for oil, <a href="#page_100">100</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ was sold in public-houses, <a href="#page_138">138</a></span><br /> -Bailli de Suffren, a witty epicure, <a href="#page_343">343</a><br /> -Bain Marie of the ancients, <a href="#page_262">262</a><br /> -Bakehouses in Rome, <a href="#page_034">34</a><br /> -Baker, of King Pharaoh, <a href="#page_031">31</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ Greek bakers, <a href="#page_032">32</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ in Rome, <a href="#page_034">34</a>, <a href="#page_035">35</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ submitted to certain regulations, <a href="#page_035">35</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ under the Norman kings, <a href="#page_038">38</a>, <a href="#page_039">39</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ in France; how they were admitted at Paris, <a href="#page_039">39</a></span><br /> -Bancs, benches, <a href="#page_374">374</a><br /> -Banquet of Geta, <a href="#page_126">126</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ of Caranus, <a href="#page_155">155</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ of Charles VI., <a href="#page_259">259</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ of Alexander the Great, <a href="#page_357">357</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ etymology, <a href="#page_374">374</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ offered to Napoleon; to the allied sovereigns, <a href="#page_407">407</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ to H. M. Queen Victoria, <a href="#page_408">408</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ on the occasion of the baptism of Prince Albert Duncan, <a href="#page_412">412</a></span><br /> -Banquets of the ancients, <a href="#page_345">345</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ of William the Conqueror, <a href="#page_352">352</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ of the Hebrews, <a href="#page_354">354</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ in the Temples, <a href="#page_355">355</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ triumphal, <a href="#page_357">357</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ modern, <a href="#page_401">401</a>, <a href="#page_407">407</a>, <a href="#page_408">408</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ conducive to the prosperity of nations, <a href="#page_402">402</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ offered to H. R. H. Prince Albert, <a href="#page_403">403</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ given by the Reform Club, <a href="#page_408">408</a></span><br /> -Barbarossa’s pike, <a href="#page_228">228</a><br /> -Barbers in Rome, <a href="#page_387">387</a><br /> -Bardakes, cooling vases, <a href="#page_297">297</a><br /> -Barley, an ignominious food, <a href="#page_020">20</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ a symbol of fertility, <a href="#page_041">41</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ gruel, <a href="#page_041">41</a>, <a href="#page_042">42</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ water, <a href="#page_042">42</a>, <a href="#page_304">304</a></span><br /> -Basque fishermen, <a href="#page_231">231</a><br /> -Baths in Rome, <a href="#page_387">387</a><br /> -Bean, a dismal food; offered to Apollo; served on good tables, <a href="#page_053">53</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ Egyptian; Greek; royalty of the bean, <a href="#page_054">54</a></span><br /> -Beaune wine, <a href="#page_336">336</a><br /> -Beccafico, <a href="#page_201">201</a>, <a href="#page_203">203</a><br /> -Beef, <a href="#page_143">143</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ à l’Ibérienne; à la Sarmate, <a href="#page_144">144</a></span><br /> -Beer, an ancient beverage, <a href="#page_299">299</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ a substitute for wine, <a href="#page_300">300</a></span><br /> -Bees, under the protection of Mellona, <a href="#page_273">273</a><br /> -Beet, etymology, <a href="#page_062">62</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ preparation, <a href="#page_062">62</a>, <a href="#page_063">63</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ preservation, <a href="#page_063">63</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ a vermifuge, <a href="#page_062">62</a></span><br /> -Belisarius, his watermills on the Tiber, <a href="#page_028">28</a><br /> -Bellaria, dessert, <a href="#page_394">394</a><br /> -Bellay, Bishop of Mans (Du), <a href="#page_024">24</a><br /> -Berlanda, disinherited by her father (St.), <a href="#page_374">374</a><br /> -Beuchlingen (Countess of), fond of eel-pouts, <a href="#page_229">229</a><br /> -Beuckels, the Dutch fisherman, <a href="#page_239">239</a><br /> -Beverages, of which water is the foundation, <a href="#page_299">299</a><br /> -Biclinium, <a href="#page_372">372</a><br /> -Bill of Fare, <a href="#page_264">264</a>, <a href="#page_404">404</a>, <a href="#page_405">405</a>, <a href="#page_409">409</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ of an English dinner in the 15th century, <a href="#page_362">362</a></span><br /> -Birds, when served, <a href="#page_193">193</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ a dish of <a href="#page_007">7</a>,000 birds, <a href="#page_207">207</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ mixed with garlands of flowers, <a href="#page_394">394</a>, <a href="#page_395">395</a></span><br /> -Birds’-nests, various opinions; described by Poivre, <a href="#page_205">205</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ substantial food; of two sorts, <a href="#page_206">206</a></span><br /> -Bittern, <a href="#page_198">198</a><br /> -Black pudding, <a href="#page_138">138</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ sauce of Lacedæmon, <a href="#page_252">252</a></span><br /> -Blackbirds, dear to the Roman epicures; medicinal properties; imprisoned by Louis XI, <a href="#page_199">199</a><br /> -Blé, wheat, <a href="#page_019">19</a><br /> -Blit, its insipidity, <a href="#page_068">68</a><br /> -Bœotia, produced excellent pomegranates, <a href="#page_122">122</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ renowned for its ducks, <a href="#page_158">158</a></span><br /> -Bœuf-gras, a fatted ox, <a href="#page_145">145</a><br /> -Bold appetite, <a href="#page_255">255</a><br /> -Boleti, mushrooms, <a href="#page_283">283</a><br /> -Bon Chrétien pear, <a href="#page_107">107</a><br /> -Books placed in the dining-room, <a href="#page_364">364</a><br /> -Bordeaux, its oysters, <a href="#page_244">244</a><br /> -Botargo, a preparation from the eggs of mullets, <a href="#page_220">220</a><br /> -Bourbon coffee, <a href="#page_310">310</a><br /> -Bourriche of oysters, <a href="#page_242">242</a><br /> -Bouturon, butter, <a href="#page_171">171</a><br /> -Brahmin women, worship a cow, <a href="#page_145">145</a><br /> -Braket, a beverage for the lower classes, <a href="#page_303">303</a><br /> -Bramble of Ida, <a href="#page_115">115</a><br /> -Braziers of the ancients, 365<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_452" id="page_452"></a>{452}</span><br /> -Bread, how made in the East, <a href="#page_030">30</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ without leaven, <a href="#page_031">31</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ of Athens; of Megara, <a href="#page_032">32</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ various kinds in Greece, <a href="#page_032">32</a>, <a href="#page_033">33</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ baking, <a href="#page_033">33</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ of the athletæ, <a href="#page_037">37</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ soaked in vinegar, <a href="#page_278">278</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ carried round the tables, <a href="#page_392">392</a></span><br /> -Breakfast of Galba, <a href="#page_257">257</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ of the Romans; of the Greeks, <a href="#page_342">342</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: .5em;">“ first meal, <a href="#page_344">344</a>, <a href="#page_349">349</a></span><br /> -Brill, <a href="#page_237">237</a><br /> -Brine, used to preserve cheese, <a href="#page_174">174</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ from the blood of mackerel, <a href="#page_213">213</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ served at table, <a href="#page_268">268</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ brought from Dalmatia, <a href="#page_269">269</a></span><br /> -Britons, paid little attention to agriculture, <a href="#page_016">16</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ their frugality, <a href="#page_017">17</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ abstained from the hare, <a href="#page_188">188</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ “ from fish, <a href="#page_214">214</a></span><br /> -Brocoli, esteemed by connoisseurs; how prepared, <a href="#page_069">69</a><br /> -Brouet, a German dish, <a href="#page_258">258</a><br /> -Bubona, the goddess of oxen, <a href="#page_128">128</a><br /> -Buccellatum, biscuit, <a href="#page_037">37</a><br /> -Buffets of the Romans, <a href="#page_364">364</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ in the middle ages, <a href="#page_365">365</a></span><br /> -Buffon and the truffles, <a href="#page_279">279</a><br /> -Buffoons, <a href="#page_382">382</a><br /> -Buhl work, valued by the ancients, <a href="#page_369">369</a><br /> -Bun, its probable origin (Cross), <a href="#page_290">290</a><br /> -Buphonic feast, <a href="#page_125">125</a><br /> -Burgundy wine, <a href="#page_336">336</a><br /> -Bustard, <a href="#page_206">206</a><br /> -Butchers in Greece; in Rome; their patron, <a href="#page_129">129</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ corporations; regulations, <a href="#page_130">130</a>, <a href="#page_131">131</a></span><br /> -Butter, a substitute for oil, <a href="#page_100">100</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ known in the East, <a href="#page_170">170</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ its manipulation; used for pastry; served instead of oil; the food of the barbarians; a remedy, <a href="#page_171">171</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ how to obtain it instantly; how to attenuate its rancidity; its preservation; burned in lamps, <a href="#page_172">172</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ fried or roasted, <a href="#page_258">258</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ regulations for its sale, <a href="#page_172">172</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ Tower, the, <a href="#page_172">172</a></span><br /> -Butts, of the ancients, <a href="#page_327">327</a><br /> -<br /> -<a name="C" id="C"></a>Cabbage, cured all diseases, <a href="#page_050">50</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ various preparations; brought into Gaul; how preserved, <a href="#page_061">61</a></span><br /> -Cacabaceus panis, a kind of bread, <a href="#page_038">38</a><br /> -Cadmus, the culinary tutor of a king, <a href="#page_253">253</a><br /> -Cæsar, served with bad oil, <a href="#page_099">99</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ sumptuary regulations, <a href="#page_347">347</a></span><br /> -Cake, devoured by an ox, <a href="#page_125">125</a><br /> -Cakes of the ancients, <a href="#page_285">285</a><br /> -Caligula, made his own apotheosis, <a href="#page_165">165</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ his expedition against Britain, <a href="#page_241">241</a></span><br /> -Calves, how fed, <a href="#page_143">143</a><br /> -Cambis devoured his wife, <a href="#page_339">339</a><br /> -Camels’-milk cheese, <a href="#page_173">173</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ flesh, <a href="#page_190">190</a></span><br /> -Cameline sauce, <a href="#page_257">257</a><br /> -Campanian bacon, <a href="#page_140">140</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ wines, <a href="#page_333">333</a></span><br /> -Canard, a French, <a href="#page_158">158</a><br /> -Candelabra, <a href="#page_389">389</a><br /> -Cantabria, renowned for hams, <a href="#page_137">137</a><br /> -Cantibaris, his stupendous gluttony, <a href="#page_340">340</a><br /> -Capers, left to the people; how prepared, <a href="#page_091">91</a><br /> -Capitolian pig’s liver, <a href="#page_140">140</a><br /> -Capon, first introduced, <a href="#page_154">154</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ à la déliaque, <a href="#page_155">155</a></span><br /> -Cappadocians, venerated water, <a href="#page_293">293</a><br /> -Capreæ, excesses of, <a href="#page_126">126</a><br /> -Capsarii, attendants in the Roman baths, <a href="#page_387">387</a><br /> -Caracas cocoa, <a href="#page_313">313</a><br /> -Caranus, a Greek epicure; his wedding repast, <a href="#page_155">155</a>, <a href="#page_186">186</a><br /> -Carenum, cooked wine, <a href="#page_326">326</a><br /> -Caria, its oil, <a href="#page_098">98</a><br /> -Carp, held in estimation; how cooked; its size; its fecundity; its longevity; where naturalised, <a href="#page_229">229</a><br /> -Carrots, much esteemed; how prepared, <a href="#page_068">68</a><br /> -Carthaginian chariot, <a href="#page_015">15</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ apples, <a href="#page_122">122</a></span><br /> -Cartier (Jacques), <a href="#page_231">231</a><br /> -Carver, <a href="#page_377">377</a><br /> -Carvilius, an artist in buhl-work, <a href="#page_369">369</a><br /> -Carving, art of; with music, <a href="#page_260">260</a><br /> -Castella aquarum, large water basins, <a href="#page_295">295</a><br /> -Castor, trained horses, <a href="#page_179">179</a><br /> -Catalonia, celebrated for hams, <a href="#page_137">137</a><br /> -Catesby, his opinion of the flamingo, <a href="#page_201">201</a><br /> -Catinus, a vase, <a href="#page_263">263</a><br /> -Cato, noticed the fig tree, <a href="#page_114">114</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ sold his old slaves, <a href="#page_208">208</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ his recipe for a cake, <a href="#page_287">287</a></span><br /> -Cattle mentioned in the Mosaic law; valued by the Romans; rearing of cattle, <a href="#page_127">127</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ markets of the Hebrews; of the Greeks, <a href="#page_128">128</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ of the Romans, 129<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_453" id="page_453"></a>{453}</span></span><br /> -Cattle, feeding of, <a href="#page_128">128</a><br /> -Cauliflowers unknown in England before Charles II., <a href="#page_052">52</a><br /> -Caviar, how prepared; of two sorts, <a href="#page_217">217</a><br /> -Cayenne coffee, <a href="#page_310">310</a><br /> -Cecilian cherry, <a href="#page_103">103</a><br /> -Celer, the price he gave for a red mullet, <a href="#page_213">213</a><br /> -Cellars of the ancients, <a href="#page_326">326</a><br /> -Celtiberia, swarming with rabbits, <a href="#page_189">189</a><br /> -Cereals, <a href="#page_019">19</a>, <a href="#page_022">22</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ name of a feast; when discovered, <a href="#page_022">22</a></span><br /> -Ceres, the goddess of agriculture, <a href="#page_009">9</a>, <a href="#page_013">13</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ a queen of Sicily, <a href="#page_024">24</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ gave the fig tree to Phytalus, <a href="#page_113">113</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ killed the first pig, <a href="#page_124">124</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ was presented with milk, <a href="#page_169">169</a></span><br /> -Cerevisia, beer, <a href="#page_300">300</a><br /> -Chafing-dishes, <a href="#page_262">262</a><br /> -Chailly, bread of, <a href="#page_039">39</a><br /> -Chairs used by the Greeks, <a href="#page_318">318</a><br /> -Chalices of the Greeks, <a href="#page_372">372</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ of amber, <a href="#page_321">321</a></span><br /> -Champagne wine, <a href="#page_033">33</a><br /> -Champignon sausages, <a href="#page_390">390</a><br /> -Charcutier, pork butcher, <a href="#page_132">132</a><br /> -Charlemagne’s kitchen-garden, <a href="#page_051">51</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ silver tables, <a href="#page_370">370</a></span><br /> -Charles VI. of France; his wedding banquet, <a href="#page_259">259</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ poisoned by mushrooms, <a href="#page_282">282</a></span><br /> -Charles IX. of France; his edict in favour of agriculture, <a href="#page_018">18</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ an admirer of turkeys, <a href="#page_185">185</a></span><br /> -Charles X. of France; his coronation banquet, <a href="#page_408">408</a><br /> -Cheese, <a href="#page_168">168</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ mentioned by Aristotle, <a href="#page_171">171</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ invented by Aristœus; known to the Hebrews; a military aliment; various sorts; given to the Greek wrestlers, <a href="#page_173">173</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ preserved in brine; Tromelian; à la Bithynienne, <a href="#page_174">174</a></span><br /> -Cherips, invented a new dish, <a href="#page_280">280</a><br /> -Cherry tree, cultivated by Mithridates; introduced by Lucullus, <a href="#page_102">102</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ propagated in Italy, <a href="#page_103">103</a></span><br /> -Cherries praised, <a href="#page_102">102</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ when served; various kinds;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ cherry wine, <a href="#page_103">103</a></span><br /> -Chervil, how prepared, <a href="#page_084">84</a><br /> -Chestnuts, preparation of; oil extracted, <a href="#page_121">121</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ kept green all the year, <a href="#page_122">122</a></span><br /> -Chestnut tree, its native place, <a href="#page_121">121</a><br /> -Chickens, sacred, <a href="#page_156">156</a><br /> -Chickens, hatched in ovens; à la Cœlienne; à la Frontonienne, <a href="#page_157">157</a><br /> -Chicory, mixed with coffee, <a href="#page_311">311</a><br /> -Chimneys known to the ancients, <a href="#page_261">261</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ unknown to the Hebrews, <a href="#page_365">365</a></span><br /> -Chinese, their respect for agriculture, <a href="#page_015">15</a><br /> -Chios wine, <a href="#page_328">328</a>, <a href="#page_330">330</a><br /> -Chiron, a pupil of Diana, <a href="#page_179">179</a><br /> -Chocolat de santé, <a href="#page_313">313</a><br /> -Chocolate, <a href="#page_312">312</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ used by the Mexicans, <a href="#page_313">313</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ a favourite food in Spain; its properties; when introduced into France, <a href="#page_314">314</a></span><br /> -Christmas bread, <a href="#page_040">40</a><br /> -Christmas feasts under Richard II., <a href="#page_351">351</a><br /> -Chrodegand, Bishop of Metz, <a href="#page_024">24</a><br /> -Cicero’s valuable tables, <a href="#page_369">369</a><br /> -Cider maker, <a href="#page_304">304</a><br /> -Cinara metamorphosed into an artichoke, <a href="#page_070">70</a><br /> -Cinnamon, its mysterious growing, <a href="#page_275">275</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ its scarcity; from China; offered as a present, <a href="#page_276">276</a></span><br /> -Cisalpine preserve, <a href="#page_145">145</a><br /> -City of London, its ancient gastronomic profusion, <a href="#page_351">351</a><br /> -Civilis panis, a kind of bread, <a href="#page_038">38</a><br /> -Clarence’s wedding repast (Duke of), <a href="#page_351">351</a><br /> -Clarey, an English drink, <a href="#page_338">338</a><br /> -Claudius, his guests, <a href="#page_257">257</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ poisoned by mushrooms, <a href="#page_282">282</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ his voracity, <a href="#page_340">340</a></span><br /> -Clement VII. poisoned by mushrooms, <a href="#page_282">282</a><br /> -Clerks’ wine, <a href="#page_337">337</a><br /> -Clerks’ feeding in the 16th century, <a href="#page_348">348</a><br /> -Cloths, dimensions of table; cutting away the table cloth, <a href="#page_374">374</a><br /> -Cloves, <a href="#page_276">276</a><br /> -Clovis, his politeness, <a href="#page_384">384</a><br /> -Club of Roman epicures, <a href="#page_243">243</a><br /> -Cock, consecrated to Mars; cock-fight in Greece; in Italy, <a href="#page_153">153</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ white, proclaimed the hours, <a href="#page_154">154</a></span><br /> -Cocoa-nut, <a href="#page_312">312</a><br /> -Cod-fishing; weight; fecundity, <a href="#page_231">231</a>, <a href="#page_232">232</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ how dressed, <a href="#page_231">231</a></span><br /> -Cœlia, beer, <a href="#page_200">200</a><br /> -Cœna, supper, of various descriptions, <a href="#page_356">356</a>, <a href="#page_357">357</a><br /> -Cœnaculum, dining-room, <a href="#page_363">363</a><br /> -Cœur, introduced the turkey (Jacques), <a href="#page_165">165</a><br /> -Coffee, of various kinds; its introduction, <a href="#page_310">310</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ when mentioned; its properties, 311<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_454" id="page_454"></a>{454}</span></span><br /> -Coffee when drunk in Italy; in London; in Paris; in Sweden; a slow poison; with milk, <a href="#page_312">312</a><br /> -Collation, <a href="#page_342">342</a>, <a href="#page_344">344</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ of the Romans, <a href="#page_343">343</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ of Lucullus, <a href="#page_348">348</a></span><br /> -Colum nivarium, snow cullender, <a href="#page_296">296</a>, <a href="#page_327">327</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ vinarium, wine strainer, <a href="#page_331">331</a></span><br /> -Colymbades, a kind of olives, <a href="#page_098">98</a><br /> -Comissatio, a sort of “wake”, <a href="#page_345">345</a><br /> -Comus, his portrait, <a href="#page_355">355</a><br /> -Conflagration of Rome, <a href="#page_396">396</a><br /> -Conger-eel, bestowing immortality; of a considerable size, <a href="#page_226">226</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ culinary preparation, <a href="#page_226">226</a></span><br /> -Connétable, a celebrated orange tree, <a href="#page_112">112</a><br /> -Conon’s banquet, <a href="#page_355">355</a><br /> -Conviva, guest, <a href="#page_381">381</a><br /> -Cookery, ancient, <a href="#page_266">266</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ exposed to unjust reproaches, <a href="#page_251">251</a></span><br /> -Cooks, <a href="#page_251">251</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ Greek, <a href="#page_126">126</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ from Sicily, <a href="#page_256">256</a>, <a href="#page_344">344</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ erratic, <a href="#page_265">265</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ how rewarded, <a href="#page_256">256</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ in the middle ages, <a href="#page_259">259</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ of Louis XIV., <a href="#page_215">215</a>, <a href="#page_256">256</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ his qualities, <a href="#page_252">252</a></span><br /> -Coriander used to preserve meat, <a href="#page_047">47</a><br /> -Corinth, its quinces, <a href="#page_106">106</a><br /> -Cormorant, <a href="#page_193">193</a><br /> -Corn, its aboriginal country, <a href="#page_022">22</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ various kinds, <a href="#page_019">19</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ best; Roman law, <a href="#page_021">21</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ cutting, <a href="#page_014">14</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ grinding, <a href="#page_023">23</a>, <a href="#page_025">25</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ its preservation, <a href="#page_015">15</a></span><br /> -Cornelian law, <a href="#page_347">347</a><br /> -Corporation of butchers, <a href="#page_130">130</a><br /> -Cos, its poultry, <a href="#page_154">154</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ wine, <a href="#page_328">328</a></span><br /> -Cossi, large worms, <a href="#page_265">265</a><br /> -Couches for the repasts, <a href="#page_372">372</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ of some emperors, <a href="#page_373">373</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ in the middle ages, <a href="#page_374">374</a></span><br /> -Counts of Anjou, introduced the plum tree, <a href="#page_105">105</a><br /> -Courses, <a href="#page_362">362</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ their number, <a href="#page_345">345</a>, <a href="#page_390">390</a>, <a href="#page_391">391</a></span><br /> -Cow, worshipped by Brahmin women, <a href="#page_145">145</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ milk; cheese, <a href="#page_173">173</a></span><br /> -Condiments, <a href="#page_272">272</a><br /> -Crab, its seasoning; sausages; stuffed, <a href="#page_248">248</a><br /> -Cranaus mixed water with wine, <a href="#page_323">323</a><br /> -Crane, <a href="#page_193">193</a><br /> -Crater, a cup, <a href="#page_391">391</a><br /> -Crawfish, <a href="#page_247">247</a><br /> -Crayfish, seasoning; from Alexandria; how preserved, <a href="#page_248">248</a><br /> -Crédences, dressers, <a href="#page_365">365</a><br /> -Cross-bun, <a href="#page_290">290</a><br /> -Crow, <a href="#page_193">193</a>, <a href="#page_207">207</a><br /> -Crowns of thrushes, <a href="#page_198">198</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ for the guests, <a href="#page_391">391</a></span><br /> -Crucifixion, the punishment of slaves, <a href="#page_208">208</a><br /> -Cruet, <a href="#page_264">264</a><br /> -Crystal, malleable, <a href="#page_218">218</a><br /> -Crystal Palace, the, <a href="#page_402">402</a><br /> -Cubicularii, valets, <a href="#page_377">377</a><br /> -Cucumber, plentiful in Egypt; from Antioch; marvellous properties, <a href="#page_072">72</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ protects all kinds of seeds; preparation; preservation, <a href="#page_073">73</a></span><br /> -Cummin, <a href="#page_091">91</a><br /> -Cups, <a href="#page_263">263</a>, <a href="#page_316">316</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ in the Homeric ages, <a href="#page_317">317</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ variety of shapes, <a href="#page_318">318</a>, <a href="#page_321">321</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ of praise, <a href="#page_369">369</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ modern, <a href="#page_407">407</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ bearer, <a href="#page_378">378</a></span><br /> -Curlew, <a href="#page_207">207</a><br /> -Curmi, beer, <a href="#page_299">299</a><br /> -Cuttle-fish, <a href="#page_234">234</a><br /> -Cuvier, on the Pentateuch, <a href="#page_009">9</a><br /> -Cybele, her repugnance to garlic, <a href="#page_081">81</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ patroness of the pine, <a href="#page_095">95</a></span><br /> -Cythnus, renowned for cheese, <a href="#page_174">174</a><br /> -<br /> -<a name="D" id="D"></a>Dalmatia, its brine, <a href="#page_269">269</a><br /> -Damascus plum trees, <a href="#page_105">105</a><br /> -Dampier, his opinion of the phenicopter, <a href="#page_201">201</a><br /> -Daphne, its thrushes, <a href="#page_197">197</a><br /> -Dapiferi, servants, <a href="#page_377">377</a><br /> -Darioles, a kind of pastry, <a href="#page_292">292</a><br /> -Dates, from Judea; how preserved; various preparations; honey from the dates, <a href="#page_101">101</a><br /> -Dauphin of France, his style of living in the 14th century, <a href="#page_348">348</a><br /> -Death of Vatel, <a href="#page_215">215</a><br /> -Decapolis, its olives, <a href="#page_098">98</a><br /> -Décimer, or Décimheure, dinner, <a href="#page_349">349</a><br /> -Decree of Apronianus, <a href="#page_130">130</a><br /> -Deer, <a href="#page_184">184</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ à la Marcellus, <a href="#page_185">185</a></span><br /> -Defrutum, boiled wine, <a href="#page_326">326</a><br /> -Denarius, inclosed within a truffle (Roman), <a href="#page_279">279</a><br /> -Dessert, 394<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_455" id="page_455"></a>{455}</span><br /> -Diamond, a fish, <a href="#page_237">237</a><br /> -Diana, taught Chiron, <a href="#page_179">179</a><br /> -Dies epulatæ, festivals, <a href="#page_290">290</a><br /> -Digestive garum, <a href="#page_272">272</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">“ salts, <a href="#page_269">269</a></span><br /> -Dill, its properties, <a href="#page_088">88</a><br /> -Dining-room, its decoration, <a href="#page_363">363</a><br /> -“ of Nero, <a href="#page_364">364</a><br /> -Dinner, <a href="#page_342">342</a>, <a href="#page_344">344</a>, <a href="#page_349">349</a><br /> -“ served to T. Quintus, <a href="#page_136">136</a><br /> -“ of the Jews, <a href="#page_342">342</a><br /> -Diogenes, his earthen vase, <a href="#page_327">327</a><br /> -Diomus kills an ox, <a href="#page_125">125</a><br /> -Diphilus fond of cherries, <a href="#page_102">102</a><br /> -Diploma, double vase, <a href="#page_262">262</a><br /> -Dishes of the ancients, <a href="#page_261">261</a><br /> -“ thirty thousand, at a banquet, <a href="#page_352">352</a><br /> -Dispensator, steward, <a href="#page_376">376</a><br /> -Distribution of wheat, <a href="#page_021">21</a><br /> -“ of oil, <a href="#page_099">99</a><br /> -“ of pork-meat, <a href="#page_130">130</a><br /> -Dodine sauce, <a href="#page_258">258</a><br /> -Dog, a relishing dish, <a href="#page_150">150</a><br /> -“ nailed to a cross, <a href="#page_151">151</a><br /> -“ trained by Pollux, <a href="#page_179">179</a><br /> -“ names of hunting dogs; their qualities, <a href="#page_180">180</a><br /> -Dolia, wine vessels, <a href="#page_327">327</a><br /> -Dolphins, <a href="#page_215">215</a><br /> -Dolyres, a kind of bread, <a href="#page_033">33</a><br /> -Domingo Coffee (St.), <a href="#page_310">310</a><br /> -Domitian, his turbot, <a href="#page_224">224</a><br /> -Dorio, a wit, <a href="#page_225">225</a><br /> -“ an epicure, <a href="#page_226">226</a><br /> -Dormice, how prepared, <a href="#page_390">390</a><br /> -Doubliers, table-cloths, <a href="#page_375">375</a><br /> -Dove, an emblem of sweet virtues, <a href="#page_162">162</a><br /> -Dragon-weaver, <a href="#page_237">237</a><br /> -Dressers, in the middle ages, <a href="#page_365">365</a><br /> -Drinking, <a href="#page_383">383</a><br /> -“ in Roman banquets, <a href="#page_392">392</a><br /> -“ to the good genius, <a href="#page_396">396</a><br /> -“ cups, <a href="#page_316">316</a><br /> -“ horns, <a href="#page_318">318</a><br /> -Druids, their respect for the oak, <a href="#page_024">24</a><br /> -Drunkards among the ancients, <a href="#page_316">316</a><br /> -Drusus fond of brocoli, <a href="#page_069">69</a><br /> -“ favourite starling, <a href="#page_200">200</a><br /> -“ daughter, and the sea-eels, <a href="#page_214">214</a><br /> -Duck, an antidote; its flesh; sacrificed to Neptune; from Bœotia; served on good tables, <a href="#page_158">158</a><br /> -“ parts offered; brains à l’Epicurienne; seasoning, <a href="#page_159">159</a><br /> -Dulce wine, <a href="#page_330">330</a><br /> -Dumplings of Athens, <a href="#page_085">85</a><br /> -Dutertre, his opinion of the phenicopter, <a href="#page_201">201</a><br /> -<br /> -<a name="E" id="E"></a>Eagles, distribution of, <a href="#page_412">412</a><br /> -Easter eggs, <a href="#page_178">178</a><br /> -Eaters of renown, <a href="#page_340">340</a><br /> -Eau-bénite sauce, <a href="#page_258">258</a><br /> -Echansons, <a href="#page_378">378</a><br /> -Echaudé bread, <a href="#page_039">39</a><br /> -Eclectic appetite, <a href="#page_255">255</a><br /> -Eden, garden of, <a href="#page_009">9</a><br /> -Edgar, a destroyer of wolves (King), <a href="#page_181">181</a><br /> -Ediles of Rome, <a href="#page_355">355</a><br /> -Edward the Confessor, fond of hunting, <a href="#page_181">181</a><br /> -“ his sumptuary laws, <a href="#page_350">350</a><br /> -Eel, worshipped in Egypt; esteemed by the Greeks; by the Sybarites; despised by the Romans; noticed by Apicius; how prepared; sacrificed to the Gods; how served; its enemies; served at Rockingham’s banquet, <a href="#page_227">227</a><br /> -“ its fabulous length, <a href="#page_213">213</a>, <a href="#page_228">228</a><br /> -Eel-pout, its liver, <a href="#page_229">229</a><br /> -“ its reputation, <a href="#page_213">213</a><br /> -Eggs, <a href="#page_168">168</a><br /> -“ venerated by some philosophers, <a href="#page_175">175</a><br /> -“ primitive; when served; cooked without fire; seen in dreams; symbol of the universe; carried with pomp, <a href="#page_176">176</a><br /> -“ soft boiled; à la Romaine; à l’Epænète; à l’Athénienne; à la Macédonienne; aux Roses, <a href="#page_177">177</a><br /> -“ pudding; red, <a href="#page_178">178</a><br /> -“ cooked on the spit, <a href="#page_258">258</a><br /> -“ Easter, <a href="#page_178">178</a><br /> -Egypt, the granary of the empire, <a href="#page_012">12</a><br /> -“ supplied the best vinegar, <a href="#page_278">278</a><br /> -Egyptians abhorred the pig, <a href="#page_134">134</a><br /> -“ esteemed the ox, <a href="#page_142">142</a><br /> -“ their veneration for the kid, <a href="#page_148">148</a><br /> -“ fond of fish, <a href="#page_211">211</a><br /> -“ their respect for the sea-eel, <a href="#page_222">222</a><br /> -“ for water, <a href="#page_293">293</a><br /> -“ consumed a great deal of bread, <a href="#page_340">340</a><br /> -“ wreaths, <a href="#page_394">394</a><br /> -Elephant, its flesh; its feet; trunk, <a href="#page_191">191</a><br /> -“ dancing elephants; à la Troyenne, <a href="#page_192">192</a><br /> -Elizabeth, fond of geese (Queen), <a href="#page_159">159</a><br /> -Emphractum, an Apician dish, <a href="#page_242">242</a><br /> -Endive, differently appreciated; curative qualities, <a href="#page_075">75</a><br /> -“ how prepared, 76<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_456" id="page_456"></a>{456}</span><br /> -Entrails of the scarus, <a href="#page_224">224</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ of the tunny-fish, <a href="#page_225">225</a></span><br /> -Entremets, <a href="#page_383">383</a>, <a href="#page_385">385</a><br /> -Epicurean dish in the olden times, <a href="#page_351">351</a><br /> -Epicurus, <a href="#page_400">400</a><br /> -Epimeletes, a Greek magistrate, <a href="#page_129">129</a><br /> -Erichthonius, king of Athens, <a href="#page_125">125</a><br /> -Eschalots, by whom discovered, <a href="#page_082">82</a><br /> -Escharites, a kind of bread, <a href="#page_033">33</a><br /> -Etiquette in the 16th century, <a href="#page_353">353</a><br /> -Eumenes encouraged the rearing of pigs (King), <a href="#page_136">136</a><br /> -Exeter banquet, <a href="#page_410">410</a><br /> -Exhibition of 1851, <a href="#page_016">16</a>, <a href="#page_402">402</a><br /> -Extravagance Culinaire, <a href="#page_406">406</a><br /> -<br /> -<a name="F" id="F"></a>Falcon, <a href="#page_194">194</a><br /> -Falernian wine, <a href="#page_329">329</a><br /> -Fannius, the consul, <a href="#page_381">381</a><br /> -Fare, bills of, <a href="#page_404">404</a>, <a href="#page_405">405</a>, <a href="#page_409">409</a><br /> -Fattening of poultry, <a href="#page_154">154</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ of geese, <a href="#page_161">161</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ of turkeys, <a href="#page_165">165</a></span><br /> -Feast in honour of Ceres, <a href="#page_356">356</a><br /> -Feathered game, <a href="#page_193">193</a><br /> -Feathers thrown before the door, <a href="#page_358">358</a><br /> -Fécule, flour, <a href="#page_022">22</a><br /> -Feeding of cattle, <a href="#page_128">128</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ of clerks in the 16th century, <a href="#page_348">348</a></span><br /> -Fennel used to restore the sight, <a href="#page_088">88</a><br /> -Festival of St. Ulric, <a href="#page_215">215</a><br /> -Fête of the distribution of eagles, <a href="#page_412">412</a><br /> -Fig-pecker, how prepared, <a href="#page_201">201</a><br /> -Fig-tree dear to Bacchus, <a href="#page_095">95</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ a tree of Eden, <a href="#page_112">112</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ planted at Athens, <a href="#page_113">113</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ varieties; brought war on Attica, <a href="#page_114">114</a></span><br /> -Figs, abounded in Canaan, <a href="#page_112">112</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ exportation interdicted; an article of trade in Jerusalem; valued by the Hebrews; food of the athletæ; favourite food of Plato; of Attica; served to Persian kings, <a href="#page_113">113</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ noticed by Cato; planted in the forum; food for entire armies, <a href="#page_114">114</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ how served, <a href="#page_115">115</a></span><br /> -Filbert, <a href="#page_120">120</a><br /> -File-fish, <a href="#page_237">237</a><br /> -Fillet of pork à la Béotienne, <a href="#page_139">139</a><br /> -Fish permitted to the Jews, <a href="#page_210">210</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ served to Queen Gatis; despised by the heroes of Homer, <a href="#page_211">211</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ Athenian law on, <a href="#page_212">212</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ disliked by the Britons, <a href="#page_214">214</a></span><br /> -Fish, of two hundred cubits, <a href="#page_213">213</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ mania, <a href="#page_214">214</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ prepared in the shape of game; its consumption in former times; its vogue under Louis XIV., <a href="#page_215">215</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ ponds, <a href="#page_220">220</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ hooks, <a href="#page_249">249</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ preservation of; piscinæ on the roofs of houses, <a href="#page_250">250</a></span><br /> -Fishermen, <a href="#page_249">249</a><br /> -Fishing, <a href="#page_249">249</a><br /> -Fishmongers of Athens, <a href="#page_212">212</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ supplying royal tables, <a href="#page_215">215</a></span><br /> -Flabellarii, servants, <a href="#page_377">377</a><br /> -Flamingo’s tongue, <a href="#page_200">200</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ little known in Europe, <a href="#page_201">201</a></span><br /> -Flesh most in fashion in the age of Homer, <a href="#page_125">125</a><br /> -Flocks of the patriarchs, <a href="#page_127">127</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ of the eastern nations, <a href="#page_146">146</a></span><br /> -Flounder, <a href="#page_237">237</a><br /> -Flour, its manipulation, <a href="#page_030">30</a><br /> -Flowers used by the guests, <a href="#page_383">383</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ spread over the table, <a href="#page_389">389</a></span><br /> -Focarii, stokers, <a href="#page_378">378</a><br /> -Fontainebleau, its orange tree, <a href="#page_112">112</a><br /> -Fontenelle, his answer to Madame Helvétius, <a href="#page_381">381</a><br /> -Food, primitive, <a href="#page_345">345</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ animal, <a href="#page_123">123</a></span><br /> -Forks, <a href="#page_263">263</a><br /> -Fornax, a goddess, <a href="#page_034">34</a><br /> -Forum pistrinum, the bread market, <a href="#page_037">37</a><br /> -Fountains of the ancients, <a href="#page_294">294</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ in dining-rooms, <a href="#page_366">366</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ spouting various liquors, <a href="#page_367">367</a>, <a href="#page_385">385</a></span><br /> -Fowls flavoured at will, <a href="#page_161">161</a><br /> -Fox, <a href="#page_190">190</a><br /> -Francis I., how cured, <a href="#page_169">169</a><br /> -Francis of Paulo introduces a pear (St.), <a href="#page_107">107</a><br /> -Fraternity of free-livers, <a href="#page_270">270</a><br /> -French wine, its price in England, <a href="#page_338">338</a><br /> -Fricatores, servants, <a href="#page_387">387</a><br /> -Fritters, <a href="#page_285">285</a><br /> -Frogs had no repute among the ancients; in fashion in Paris; eaten in Germany; disdained in England, <a href="#page_249">249</a><br /> -Fruits, the primitive food; Hebrew legislation; how eaten, <a href="#page_095">95</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ how preserved, <a href="#page_096">96</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ when served, <a href="#page_096">96</a>, <a href="#page_097">97</a></span><br /> -Fruit-trees on the house tops, <a href="#page_096">96</a><br /> -Frumenta, 41<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_457" id="page_457"></a>{457}</span><br /> -Funereal banquet, <a href="#page_357">357</a><br /> -Furfuraceus panis, a sort of bread, <a href="#page_038">38</a><br /> -Furrows, their length, <a href="#page_018">18</a><br /> -<br /> -<a name="G" id="G"></a>Gala of the pagan pontiffs, <a href="#page_356">356</a><br /> -Galactophagists, drinkers of milk, <a href="#page_168">168</a><br /> -Galba’s breakfast, <a href="#page_257">257</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ gastronomic profusion, <a href="#page_341">341</a></span><br /> -Galen, his opinion of the pear, <a href="#page_107">107</a><br /> -Game, feathered, <a href="#page_193">193</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ its preservation, <a href="#page_194">194</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ fabulous expenses for, <a href="#page_207">207</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ abundant in Ithaca, <a href="#page_339">339</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ permitted to the Hebrews, <a href="#page_193">193</a></span><br /> -Gardening in Great Britain, <a href="#page_017">17</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ known at an early period, <a href="#page_059">59</a></span><br /> -Gardens, of Babylon; of Alcinous; Roman, <a href="#page_059">59</a><br /> -Garlic, a god in Egypt; a military food; given to cocks; used by countrymen; proscribed by a King of Castile, <a href="#page_081">81</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ its virtues; how to render it milder, <a href="#page_082">82</a></span><br /> -Garoe, a curious tree, <a href="#page_298">298</a><br /> -Garos, a shrimp, <a href="#page_270">270</a><br /> -Garum, <a href="#page_213">213</a>, <a href="#page_269">269</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ sociorum; <a href="#page_236">236</a>, <a href="#page_270">270</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ obtained from anchovies, <a href="#page_240">240</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ procured from Spain, <a href="#page_243">243</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ its price; from shrimps; from mackerel; of the allies; from tunny-fish; from the red mullet, <a href="#page_270">270</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ from saxatile fish; its preparation; used as a seasoning; from various animals, <a href="#page_271">271</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ its modifications; digestive, <a href="#page_272">272</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ used in Turkey, <a href="#page_273">273</a></span><br /> -Garus, a shrimp, <a href="#page_270">270</a><br /> -Gastronomy, where it has flourished, <a href="#page_126">126</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ the offspring of appetite and sensuality, <a href="#page_210">210</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ promotes friendship, <a href="#page_402">402</a></span><br /> -Gatis, Queen of Syria, <a href="#page_211">211</a><br /> -Gaul, renowned for hams, <a href="#page_137">137</a><br /> -Gauls, enticed by the figs of Italy, <a href="#page_114">114</a><br /> -Geese, saved the Capitol, <a href="#page_151">151</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ appreciated by the ancients; their prudence; honoured by the Britons, <a href="#page_159">159</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ kept in the Capitol; a symbol of safety; fattening, <a href="#page_160">160</a>, <a href="#page_161">161</a></span><br /> -Gelatine sauce, <a href="#page_258">258</a><br /> -Gellia, anecdote of, <a href="#page_189">189</a><br /> -George IV., his coronation banquet, <a href="#page_408">408</a><br /> -Geta’s banquet, <a href="#page_126">126</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ alphabetical dishes, <a href="#page_257">257</a></span><br /> -Getes, drinkers of milk, <a href="#page_168">168</a><br /> -Gills of mullets, <a href="#page_219">219</a><br /> -Ginger, <a href="#page_092">92</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ bread, <a href="#page_040">40</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ known to the ancients, <a href="#page_285">285</a></span><br /> -Gladiators, fighting to amuse the guests, <a href="#page_396">396</a><br /> -Globi, a kind of pastry, <a href="#page_288">288</a><br /> -Gloucestershire, renowned for its wines, <a href="#page_336">336</a><br /> -Goat, killed by Bacchus, <a href="#page_124">124</a><br /> -Gold-fish, how dressed; gave its name to Sergius, <a href="#page_230">230</a><br /> -Golden age, dietetic of the, <a href="#page_124">124</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ apples, <a href="#page_109">109</a></span><br /> -Gods of the sea, <a href="#page_294">294</a><br /> -Gonesse, bread of, <a href="#page_039">39</a><br /> -Goose’s liver, <a href="#page_160">160</a>, <a href="#page_161">161</a><br /> -Goose à la Gauloise; served on Michaelmas day, <a href="#page_161">161</a><br /> -Gorgor introduces honey into Spain, <a href="#page_273">273</a><br /> -Goslings, in repute among the Greeks, <a href="#page_159">159</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ how fattened, <a href="#page_160">160</a></span><br /> -Gourd, brought from India; how prepared and preserved; from Antioch, <a href="#page_066">66</a><br /> -Grain, spread on the furrows, <a href="#page_014">14</a><br /> -Grains, <a href="#page_046">46</a><br /> -Granada, its olives, <a href="#page_098">98</a><br /> -Granatum, pomegranate, <a href="#page_122">122</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ wine, <a href="#page_331">331</a></span><br /> -Granea, how prepared, <a href="#page_020">20</a><br /> -Grapes, offered to Bacchus, <a href="#page_095">95</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ served on the Roman tables, <a href="#page_325">325</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ preserved, <a href="#page_325">325</a></span><br /> -Grass, a primitive seat, <a href="#page_368">368</a><br /> -Grasshoppers, <a href="#page_265">265</a>, <a href="#page_390">390</a><br /> -Greek-nut, <a href="#page_117">117</a><br /> -Greeks, fond of agriculture, <a href="#page_011">11</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ their cattle-markets, <a href="#page_128">128</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ eat dogs, <a href="#page_151">151</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ laid the foundation of Ichthyophagy, <a href="#page_211">211</a></span><br /> -Grinding of corn, <a href="#page_023">23</a><br /> -Grinding-stones, by whom invented, <a href="#page_024">24</a>, <a href="#page_025">25</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ used by ancient nations, <a href="#page_025">25</a></span><br /> -Grindstones, of porous lava, <a href="#page_028">28</a><br /> -Gruel, of the Romans, <a href="#page_033">33</a>, <a href="#page_034">34</a><br /> -Gudgeon, <a href="#page_238">238</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ when served; seasoning, <a href="#page_239">239</a></span><br /> -Guests, <a href="#page_368">368</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ their places, <a href="#page_372">372</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ their number, <a href="#page_381">381</a></span><br /> -Guinea hen, native place; à la Numide, <a href="#page_163">163</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: .5em;">“ sacrificed to Caligula, <a href="#page_165">165</a></span><br /> -Guiseau, a kind of eel, 228<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_458" id="page_458"></a>{458}</span><br /> -Haddock, served with pomp, <a href="#page_236">236</a><br /> -<br /> -<a name="H" id="H"></a>Halec, a kind of brine, <a href="#page_240">240</a><br /> -Hall, atrium, <a href="#page_376">376</a><br /> -Hall-keeper, atriensis, <a href="#page_376">376</a><br /> -Halmades, a kind of olives, <a href="#page_098">98</a><br /> -Hams, when served, <a href="#page_137">137</a><br /> -Hand-mills, <a href="#page_025">25</a><br /> -Hare, how prepared; forbidden to the Jews; abounded in Greece, <a href="#page_188">188</a><br /> -Hare’s down used for couches, <a href="#page_373">373</a><br /> -Haricots, introduced by Alexander, <a href="#page_055">55</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ when served, <a href="#page_056">56</a></span><br /> -Harold, the British Nimrod (King), <a href="#page_182">182</a><br /> -Hazel-nut, <a href="#page_120">120</a><br /> -Healths, how drank, <a href="#page_383">383</a>, <a href="#page_393">393</a>, <a href="#page_394">394</a><br /> -Hebrews, their cattle-markets, <a href="#page_128">128</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ their use of wine, <a href="#page_323">323</a></span><br /> -Hedgehog, <a href="#page_190">190</a><br /> -Heliogabalus, fond of pheasants, <a href="#page_195">195</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ thrushes and ostrichs’s brains, <a href="#page_199">199</a>, <a href="#page_204">204</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ was served with gills of mullets, <a href="#page_219">219</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ gorged the pheasants with an expensive delicacy, <a href="#page_221">221</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ his couches, <a href="#page_373">373</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ his childish espiégleries, <a href="#page_373">373</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ biography, <a href="#page_400">400</a></span><br /> -Hempseed, <a href="#page_048">48</a><br /> -Hen of Numidia, <a href="#page_163">163</a><br /> -Henry I. of England, his death, <a href="#page_222">222</a><br /> -Hens, proscribed by C. Fannius, <a href="#page_154">154</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ aviaries; inauspicious cackling; feeding, <a href="#page_155">155</a>, <a href="#page_156">156</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ worshipped, <a href="#page_175">175</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ of Adria; eggs, <a href="#page_177">177</a></span><br /> -Hercules, the patron of butchers, <a href="#page_129">129</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ a powerful hunter, <a href="#page_179">179</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ resuscitated by a quail, <a href="#page_196">196</a></span><br /> -Heroes of Homer, fond of animal food, <a href="#page_126">126</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ their culinary talents, <a href="#page_253">253</a></span><br /> -Heron, <a href="#page_193">193</a>, <a href="#page_194">194</a><br /> -Herring, unknown to the ancients; caught on the coast of Scotland; sold by the Dutch, <a href="#page_239">239</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ how preserved, <a href="#page_240">240</a></span><br /> -Hesperides apples, <a href="#page_109">109</a><br /> -Hippocrates, prejudiced against beans, <a href="#page_053">53</a><br /> -Hippolochus, a defender of quails, <a href="#page_197">197</a><br /> -Hirpinus’s park, <a href="#page_181">181</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ fish-ponds, <a href="#page_243">243</a></span><br /> -Hirtius, celebrated for his fish-ponds, <a href="#page_220">220</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ his sea-eels, <a href="#page_221">221</a></span><br /> -Hirundo esculenta, sea-swallow, <a href="#page_205">205</a><br /> -Hog à la Troyenne, <a href="#page_136">136</a><br /> -Homer, his heroes, <a href="#page_126">126</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ his poem in favour of thrushes, <a href="#page_197">197</a></span><br /> -Honey, discovered by Aristæus; its qualities; introduced into Spain; recommended by Pythagoras; produced by the air; by flowers, <a href="#page_273">273</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ by reeds; from Attica; when served; seasoning, <a href="#page_374">374</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ obtained from dates, <a href="#page_101">101</a></span><br /> -Honeyed wine, <a href="#page_131">131</a><br /> -Hôpital, prohibits the sale of pies (Chancelier de l’), <a href="#page_290">290</a><br /> -Horace, fond of parsley, <a href="#page_083">83</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ peacocks, <a href="#page_176">176</a></span><br /> -Hordeum, barley, <a href="#page_020">20</a><br /> -Horns, used for cups, <a href="#page_318">318</a><br /> -Hors-d’œuvre, <a href="#page_381">381</a><br /> -Horse-radish despised; various sorts; preparation of the seed, <a href="#page_080">80</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ spoils the teeth, <a href="#page_081">81</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ its properties, <a href="#page_080">80</a>, <a href="#page_081">81</a></span><br /> -Horses, trained by Castor, <a href="#page_179">179</a><br /> -Hortensius, the first who served a peacock, <a href="#page_167">167</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ his park, <a href="#page_181">181</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ wept over the death of a fish, <a href="#page_214">214</a></span><br /> -Hospitality, described by Apollodorus, <a href="#page_355">355</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ of the English aristocracy, <a href="#page_384">384</a></span><br /> -Hot-houses, known to the ancients, <a href="#page_094">94</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ wine, <a href="#page_393">393</a></span><br /> -Hunting, its antiquity, <a href="#page_179">179</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ of the ancients, <a href="#page_180">180</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ permitted by the Roman law; in England, <a href="#page_181">181</a>, <a href="#page_182">182</a></span><br /> -Hydromel, <a href="#page_304">304</a><br /> -Hydromelon, <a href="#page_305">305</a><br /> -Hydrorosatum, <a href="#page_305">305</a><br /> -Hyperbius, son of Mars, <a href="#page_124">124</a><br /> -Hypotrimma, a stomachic condiment, <a href="#page_272">272</a><br /> -Hyssop, its virtues, <a href="#page_088">88</a>, <a href="#page_089">89</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ wine, <a href="#page_334">334</a></span><br /> -<br /> -<a name="I-i" id="I-i"></a>Ibrahim Pacha, entertained by the Reform Club, <a href="#page_408">408</a><br /> -Ice, how obtained; from the Alps; ice-houses, <a href="#page_295">295</a><br /> -Iced beverages, <a href="#page_296">296</a><br /> -Ichthyophagy, <a href="#page_210">210</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ of the Greeks; of the Romans, <a href="#page_208">208</a></span><br /> -Ichthyophilists, <a href="#page_212">212</a><br /> -Imperial sausages, <a href="#page_141">141</a><br /> -Incrustations, for tables, 368<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_459" id="page_459"></a>{459}</span><br /> -Indolent appetite, <a href="#page_255">255</a><br /> -Innkeepers, <a href="#page_336">336</a><br /> -Intoxication, not unfashionable with the ancients, <a href="#page_317">317</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ in the middle ages, <a href="#page_337">337</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ punished in France, <a href="#page_337">337</a>, <a href="#page_338">338</a></span><br /> -Invitation to dinner, <a href="#page_387">387</a><br /> -Irrigation of gardens, <a href="#page_059">59</a><br /> -Israelites, fed on quails, <a href="#page_196">196</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ their public repasts, <a href="#page_346">346</a></span><br /> -Ivory tables, <a href="#page_394">394</a><br /> -<br /> -<a name="J" id="J"></a>James I. and lamb’s fleece, <a href="#page_182">182</a><br /> -Janus planted the vine in Italy, <a href="#page_323">323</a><br /> -Jews, devoted to agriculture, <a href="#page_010">10</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ abstained from the pig, <a href="#page_134">134</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ “ hare, <a href="#page_188">188</a></span><br /> -Judea, its fertility, <a href="#page_012">12</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ produced excellent dates, <a href="#page_101">101</a></span><br /> -Jugglers, <a href="#page_384">384</a>, <a href="#page_395">395</a><br /> -Jupiter, his stratagem against the Gauls, <a href="#page_033">33</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ suckled by a sow, <a href="#page_134">134</a></span><br /> -Jus Nigrum, black sauce, of Lacedæmon, <a href="#page_252">252</a><br /> -<br /> -<a name="K" id="K"></a>Keneffes, German, <a href="#page_258">258</a><br /> -Kervynge, the Booke of, <a href="#page_370">370</a><br /> -Kid, venerated by the Egyptians; a favourite dish with the Hebrews; the Greeks; of Attica, <a href="#page_148">148</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ Sicily; Tivoli; various preparations, <a href="#page_149">149</a></span><br /> -King of the banquet, <a href="#page_383">383</a><br /> -Kirschen-wasser, <a href="#page_103">103</a><br /> -Kitchen, ancient remains, <a href="#page_259">259</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ description, <a href="#page_260">260</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ in the middle ages, <a href="#page_353">353</a></span><br /> -Kitchen-garden, <a href="#page_059">59</a><br /> -Knives, <a href="#page_264">264</a><br /> -<br /> -<a name="L" id="L"></a>Ladies, fond of oysters (Roman), <a href="#page_244">244</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ forbidden to drink wine, <a href="#page_332">332</a></span><br /> -Lady of the lamb, <a href="#page_148">148</a><br /> -Lamb, offered in sacrifice; Paschal, <a href="#page_146">146</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ a luxury; in repute among the ancients; various preparations, <a href="#page_147">147</a></span><br /> -Lamprey, dried up by the sun; stops a vessel; its high price, <a href="#page_222">222</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ killed in Candian wine; how prepared, <a href="#page_223">223</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ compared to quails, <a href="#page_224">224</a></span><br /> -Lares, household gods, <a href="#page_390">390</a><br /> -Lark, <a href="#page_207">207</a><br /> -Latona, presented with leeks, <a href="#page_077">77</a><br /> -Leaven, known to the Jews, <a href="#page_031">31</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ how used by the Greeks, <a href="#page_033">33</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ different kinds, <a href="#page_036">36</a></span><br /> -Lecticarii, servants, <a href="#page_378">378</a><br /> -Leek, an Egyptian divinity; cured numerous diseases; how prepared; how to make them acquire an extraordinary size; they are offered to Latona, <a href="#page_077">77</a><br /> -Legislation, concerning the Roman slaves, <a href="#page_209">209</a><br /> -Lemon tree, its origin, <a href="#page_109">109</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ received from Persia, <a href="#page_110">110</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ used for tables and beds, <a href="#page_110">110</a>, <a href="#page_368">368</a></span><br /> -Lemons, considered as a counter-poison; how preserved; lemon-peel, a digestive, <a href="#page_110">110</a><br /> -Lentils, etymology; known to the Hebrews; appreciated by the Egyptians; by the Greeks; not in high repute with the Romans; supposed to soften the temper, <a href="#page_057">57</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ an ill-omened food; a funereal vegetable, <a href="#page_058">58</a></span><br /> -Lesbos wine, <a href="#page_328">328</a><br /> -Lettuce, eaten by the Hebrews; its narcotic virtue; irrigated with wine; served with eggs, <a href="#page_074">74</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ how prepared, <a href="#page_075">75</a></span><br /> -Le Vaillant, his opinion of the elephant’s feet and trunk, <a href="#page_191">191</a><br /> -Libations, <a href="#page_390">390</a><br /> -Libum, a sort of cake, <a href="#page_287">287</a><br /> -Liburnian oil, <a href="#page_100">100</a><br /> -Licinian law respecting cattle, <a href="#page_127">127</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ concerning the Roman diet, <a href="#page_051">51</a></span><br /> -Licinius Muræna, <a href="#page_220">220</a><br /> -Lighting of the ancients, <a href="#page_366">366</a><br /> -Linseed, <a href="#page_048">48</a><br /> -Liqueur wine, <a href="#page_332">332</a>, <a href="#page_334">334</a><br /> -List of the repast, <a href="#page_264">264</a><br /> -Liver of the red mullet, <a href="#page_213">213</a><br /> -Livia and the sorceress, <a href="#page_176">176</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ fond of good wine, <a href="#page_332">332</a></span><br /> -Livio contrived to fatten peacocks, <a href="#page_167">167</a><br /> -Loach, how dressed in Italy, <a href="#page_238">238</a><br /> -Loaves, Roman, <a href="#page_037">37</a><br /> -Lobster, a favourite dish, <a href="#page_247">247</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ how prepared, <a href="#page_248">248</a></span><br /> -Loligo, how served, <a href="#page_237">237</a><br /> -Louis XI imprisons blackbirds, <a href="#page_199">199</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ XIV., his public repasts, <a href="#page_349">349</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ his dinners, <a href="#page_350">350</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ suppers, <a href="#page_350">350</a></span><br /> -Lucanian sausages, <a href="#page_138">138</a>, <a href="#page_140">140</a><br /> -Lucrinus, a lake renowned for its fish, <a href="#page_243">243</a><br /> -Lucullian ham, 139<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_460" id="page_460"></a>{460}</span><br /> -Lucullus, introduced the cherry tree, <a href="#page_102">102</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ his park, <a href="#page_181">181</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ fed thrushes, <a href="#page_199">199</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ brought up the sea to his gardens, <a href="#page_213">213</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ his ambigu to Cicero and Pompey, <a href="#page_257">257</a>, <a href="#page_348">348</a></span><br /> -Lupin, used for cattle, <a href="#page_047">47</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ etymology, <a href="#page_048">48</a></span><br /> -Lutatian cherry, <a href="#page_103">103</a><br /> -Luxury of the Romans, <a href="#page_356">356</a><br /> -Lycurgus commanded little children to fast, <a href="#page_252">252</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ destroyed the vines of Lacedæmon, <a href="#page_323">323</a></span><br /> -Lysimachus, his tax on salt, <a href="#page_267">267</a><br /> -<br /> -<a name="M" id="M"></a>Macédoine Germanique of milk, <a href="#page_170">170</a><br /> -Macedonia, its giant pigs, <a href="#page_136">136</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ of chickens, <a href="#page_157">157</a></span><br /> -Macedonian pork, <a href="#page_138">138</a><br /> -Mackerel, <a href="#page_235">235</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ its dangerous appetite; supplied a sort of garum, <a href="#page_236">236</a>, <a href="#page_270">270</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ appreciated by the ancients, <a href="#page_236">236</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ etymology, <a href="#page_235">235</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ furnished a valuable brine, <a href="#page_213">213</a></span><br /> -Madidus panis, a sort of cosmetic, <a href="#page_038">38</a><br /> -Mecænas introduced the flesh of the ass, <a href="#page_150">150</a><br /> -Magiric science, its beginnings, <a href="#page_123">123</a><br /> -Mahomedans abstain from the pig, <a href="#page_134">134</a><br /> -Majordomo, <a href="#page_260">260</a><br /> -Mallows, their properties; in high renown; among the ancient acetaria; how prepared; served as a salad, <a href="#page_064">64</a><br /> -Mamertinum wine, <a href="#page_329">329</a><br /> -Manlius, his trick with the Gauls, <a href="#page_033">33</a><br /> -Manure, Greek and Roman, <a href="#page_014">14</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ obtained from thrushes, <a href="#page_198">198</a></span><br /> -Maple, used for tables, <a href="#page_368">368</a><br /> -Maragnon cocoa, <a href="#page_313">313</a><br /> -Mares’ milk cheese, <a href="#page_173">173</a><br /> -Marionettes with the ancients, <a href="#page_395">395</a><br /> -Marjoram wine (wild), <a href="#page_333">333</a><br /> -Markets, <a href="#page_128">128</a><br /> -Market-bell, <a href="#page_212">212</a><br /> -Marl, used as manure, <a href="#page_014">14</a><br /> -Martinique coffee, <a href="#page_310">310</a><br /> -Mary Stuart’s supper, <a href="#page_383">383</a><br /> -Mauviette, a species of lark, <a href="#page_207">207</a><br /> -Meals, their number, <a href="#page_342">342</a><br /> -Meat, preserved without salt, <a href="#page_131">131</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ sold by mication, <a href="#page_129">129</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ given by guests to their servants, <a href="#page_394">394</a></span><br /> -Median apples, <a href="#page_109">109</a><br /> -Mediastini, servants, <a href="#page_387">387</a><br /> -Megalartus, taught to knead flour, <a href="#page_032">32</a><br /> -Meilleraye, his bill for vinegar (Duke de La), <a href="#page_278">278</a><br /> -Meleager, mourned by turkeys, <a href="#page_164">164</a><br /> -Meleagrides, turkeys, <a href="#page_164">164</a><br /> -Melitates, a sort of pastry, <a href="#page_033">33</a>, <a href="#page_285">285</a><br /> -Mellona, the protectress of bees, <a href="#page_273">273</a><br /> -Melon, <a href="#page_077">77</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ from Asia; perfumed by the Greeks; appreciated in Rome; how to render it milder; its Hygienic qualities; how prepared; brought from Italy, <a href="#page_078">78</a></span><br /> -Mercury was presented with milk, <a href="#page_169">169</a><br /> -Merenda, <a href="#page_343">343</a><br /> -Mication, used for the sale of meat, <a href="#page_129">129</a><br /> -Michaelmas day, goose served at dinner, <a href="#page_161">161</a><br /> -Michaux, a botanist, <a href="#page_019">19</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ brought peas into repute, <a href="#page_056">56</a></span><br /> -Miletus, the inventor of grinding-stones, <a href="#page_025">25</a><br /> -Milk, <a href="#page_168">168</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ a primitive food, <a href="#page_123">123</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ an emblem of fertility; the principal food of several nations, <a href="#page_168">168</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ offered to Ceres; to Mercury; its qualities, <a href="#page_169">169</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ Macédoine Germanique of, <a href="#page_170">170</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ mixed with coffee, <a href="#page_312">312</a></span><br /> -Millers, their festival (Roman), <a href="#page_026">26</a><br /> -Millet, <a href="#page_043">43</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ used for making cakes, <a href="#page_020">20</a></span><br /> -Millium, millet, <a href="#page_020">20</a><br /> -Mills introduced to Rome, <a href="#page_025">25</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ of the ancients; hydraulic mills; mentioned by Vitruvius, <a href="#page_027">27</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ where invented; constructed by Belisarius; description; known in England, <a href="#page_028">28</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ wind-mills, <a href="#page_029">29</a></span><br /> -Milo, a notorious eater, <a href="#page_143">143</a>, <a href="#page_339">339</a><br /> -Minerva, the patroness of the olive tree, <a href="#page_095">95</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ produced the olive tree, <a href="#page_097">97</a></span><br /> -Minos, his sumptuary laws, <a href="#page_346">346</a><br /> -Mint, formerly a young girl; prevented milk from curdling, <a href="#page_090">90</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ wine, <a href="#page_333">333</a></span><br /> -Minturnæ, the retreat of Apicius, <a href="#page_247">247</a><br /> -Mirabelle plums, <a href="#page_105">105</a><br /> -Misor taught the art of seasoning, <a href="#page_267">267</a><br /> -Mithœcus, a magiric writer, <a href="#page_254">254</a><br /> -Mithridates cultivated the cherry tree, <a href="#page_102">102</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ his antidote, <a href="#page_119">119</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ his opinion of the duck, <a href="#page_158">158</a></span><br /> -Mocha coffee, 310<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_461" id="page_461"></a>{461}</span><br /> -Mola, a goddess, <a href="#page_025">25</a>, <a href="#page_026">26</a><br /> -Monsieur, plums of, <a href="#page_105">105</a><br /> -Morel, a sort of mushroom, <a href="#page_282">282</a><br /> -Moretaria, a stomachic condiment, <a href="#page_272">272</a><br /> -Mortars, used to pound the grain, <a href="#page_024">24</a>, <a href="#page_025">25</a><br /> -Mosaic law, concerning cattle, <a href="#page_127">127</a><br /> -Moses, promoted agriculture, <a href="#page_011">11</a>, <a href="#page_322">322</a><br /> -Mostecham sauce, <a href="#page_258">258</a><br /> -Mountebanks enlivening the banquets, <a href="#page_344">344</a><br /> -Moût sauce, <a href="#page_258">258</a><br /> -Mugil, how dressed, <a href="#page_235">235</a><br /> -Mulberry tree, its wisdom; a native of Canaan; its juice and wine, <a href="#page_116">116</a><br /> -Mullet, red, <a href="#page_218">218</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ killed on the table, <a href="#page_213">213</a>, <a href="#page_218">218</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ in brine, <a href="#page_213">213</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ anecdote of Philoxenus, <a href="#page_218">218</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ how cooked; its price, <a href="#page_218">218</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ its liver and head; weight, <a href="#page_219">219</a></span><br /> -Mulsum wine, cure for head-ache, <a href="#page_331">331</a><br /> -Muræna, sea-eel, <a href="#page_208">208</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ dear to Hortensius, <a href="#page_214">214</a></span><br /> -Murrhine vases, <a href="#page_319">319</a><br /> -Muria, brine; dura; a convivial punishment, <a href="#page_269">269</a><br /> -Muses, protected the palm-tree, <a href="#page_095">95</a>, <a href="#page_100">100</a><br /> -Mushrooms, the dish of the gods; their poisonous effects; relished by the ancients, <a href="#page_282">282</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ how they are grown, <a href="#page_283">283</a></span><br /> -Musicians, symphoniaci, <a href="#page_389">389</a><br /> -Mussels, praised by the ancients, served to the gods; how seasoned, <a href="#page_245">245</a><br /> -Mustaceum of the Romans, <a href="#page_286">286</a><br /> -Mustard, <a href="#page_046">46</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ etymology, <a href="#page_046">46</a>, <a href="#page_047">47</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ a remedy against venomous serpents, <a href="#page_046">46</a></span><br /> -Myrrhinum wine, <a href="#page_331">331</a><br /> -Myrtites wine, <a href="#page_305">305</a><br /> -Myrtle wine, <a href="#page_334">334</a><br /> -<br /> -<a name="N" id="N"></a>Napkins used by the ancients, <a href="#page_375">375</a><br /> -Naples, its good cheer, <a href="#page_126">126</a><br /> -Napoleon I., his coronation banquet, <a href="#page_407">407</a><br /> -Nero’s iced water, <a href="#page_305">305</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ dining-room, <a href="#page_363">363</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ he sets fire to Rome, <a href="#page_369">369</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ biographical note, <a href="#page_399">399</a></span><br /> -Nestor’s cup, <a href="#page_317">317</a><br /> -Nets, <a href="#page_249">249</a><br /> -New year eggs, <a href="#page_178">178</a><br /> -Nicolas of Damascus, his dates, <a href="#page_101">101</a><br /> -Nicomachus and his estate, <a href="#page_177">177</a><br /> -Nicomedes and his cook, <a href="#page_044">44</a>, <a href="#page_045">45</a><br /> -Noisettes, hazel nuts, <a href="#page_120">120</a><br /> -Nomenculatores, servants, <a href="#page_377">377</a><br /> -Northumberland (Duke of), his munificence, <a href="#page_408">408</a><br /> -Nougat of the ancients, <a href="#page_285">285</a><br /> -Numidian chicken, <a href="#page_157">157</a><br /> -Nut-tree, <a href="#page_120">120</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ nuts of Jupiter; Persian, <a href="#page_118">118</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ of Heraclea, <a href="#page_120">120</a></span><br /> -<br /> -<a name="O" id="O"></a>Oak, supplied a primitive food, <a href="#page_024">24</a><br /> -Oatmeal, relished by the ancients, <a href="#page_043">43</a><br /> -Oats, <a href="#page_042">42</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ appreciated by the Germans, <a href="#page_020">20</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ oat soup; oat cream, <a href="#page_042">42</a></span><br /> -Obsonator, servant, <a href="#page_260">260</a>, <a href="#page_377">377</a><br /> -Œnanthinum wine, <a href="#page_335">335</a><br /> -Œnogarum, <a href="#page_073">73</a><br /> -Officers appointed to watch over the water, <a href="#page_294">294</a><br /> -Oil, abounded in the East; used by the Patriarchs, <a href="#page_097">97</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ the best; its price in Rome, <a href="#page_098">98</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ served to Julius Cæsar; used at the baths; distribution of oil, <a href="#page_099">99</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ Liburnian oil, <a href="#page_100">100</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ of almonds, <a href="#page_117">117</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ of chestnuts, <a href="#page_121">121</a></span><br /> -Oil-mills, invented by Aristæus, <a href="#page_097">97</a><br /> -Olive-tree, <a href="#page_096">96</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ discovered by Minerva; its pre-eminence; used for various emblems, <a href="#page_097">97</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ cultivated by the Jews; in Greece, <a href="#page_098">98</a></span><br /> -Olives, preserved by the Hebrews; of Andalusia; of Granada; cultivation, <a href="#page_098">98</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ when served, <a href="#page_099">99</a></span><br /> -Olla, a Spanish dish, <a href="#page_258">258</a><br /> -Olympian pig’s liver, <a href="#page_140">140</a><br /> -Omphacomeli, a beverage, <a href="#page_305">305</a><br /> -Onions, brought into Greece; how prepared; with honey, <a href="#page_076">76</a><br /> -Orach, its pernicious properties, <a href="#page_087">87</a><br /> -Orange-tree, its native place; introduced by the Portuguese; unknown to the Romans, <a href="#page_111">111</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ stuck with cloves, <a href="#page_112">112</a></span><br /> -Orchius, the Tribune, <a href="#page_381">381</a><br /> -Organs of the Romans, <a href="#page_389">389</a><br /> -Orpheus and the primitive egg, <a href="#page_176">176</a><br /> -Ortolans, sent to Rome, <a href="#page_203">203</a><br /> -Oryza, rice, <a href="#page_020">20</a><br /> -Osiris, the inventor of agriculture, <a href="#page_009">9</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ introduced the plough into Egypt, 12<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_462" id="page_462"></a>{462}</span></span><br /> -Ostiarius, porter, <a href="#page_376">376</a><br /> -Ostrich, fatted and salted, <a href="#page_203">203</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ served on some tables; dish of ostrich’s brains; eggs; a friandise, <a href="#page_204">204</a></span><br /> -Otranto, the palm tree of, <a href="#page_100">100</a><br /> -Ovens, used by the Jews, <a href="#page_031">31</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ near the hand-mills, <a href="#page_033">33</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ first built in Rome, <a href="#page_034">34</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ portable, <a href="#page_035">35</a></span><br /> -Ox, sacrificed by Prometheus, <a href="#page_124">124</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ offered to Jupiter; devouring a sacred cake, <a href="#page_125">125</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ roasted whole, <a href="#page_142">142</a>, <a href="#page_410">410</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ an emblem of agriculture; its image on coins; offered to pugilists, <a href="#page_142">142</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ its flesh permitted to the Hebrews; praised by Hippocrates; price of, <a href="#page_143">143</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ highly valued by the Romans, <a href="#page_145">145</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ care taken of; tracing a furrow, <a href="#page_014">14</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ sacrificed to Bubona, <a href="#page_128">128</a></span><br /> -Oxycrat, a military drink, <a href="#page_304">304</a><br /> -Oxymel, <a href="#page_304">304</a><br /> -Oxyporon, a seasoning, <a href="#page_274">274</a><br /> -Oysters, uncommon in ancient times; served to the pagan pontiffs; their price, <a href="#page_242">242</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ preserved fat and alive; sent to Trajan; when served in Greece; often served raw; how fattened, <a href="#page_343">343</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ how dressed; from the Atlantic ocean; from Bordeaux; how preserved; pickled; forgotten for a long period, <a href="#page_244">244</a></span><br /> -<br /> -<a name="P" id="P"></a>Palatine broil, <a href="#page_147">147</a><br /> -Pales, <a href="#page_128">128</a><br /> -Palestine, renowned for its wines, <a href="#page_322">322</a><br /> -Palladius cultivated the lemon tree, <a href="#page_110">110</a><br /> -Palm-tree, consecrated to the Muses, <a href="#page_095">95</a>, <a href="#page_100">100</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ of Otranto, <a href="#page_100">100</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ its usefulness, <a href="#page_101">101</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ supplied the schecar, <a href="#page_100">100</a></span><br /> -Pan, <a href="#page_031">31</a><br /> -Pandarus, exempt from indigestions, <a href="#page_251">251</a><br /> -Panic-grass, <a href="#page_043">43</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ a favourite dish, <a href="#page_020">20</a></span><br /> -Panis, bread; etymology, <a href="#page_031">31</a>, <a href="#page_032">32</a><br /> -Parasites, <a href="#page_382">382</a>, <a href="#page_388">388</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ their place in banquets, <a href="#page_380">380</a></span><br /> -Parks, <a href="#page_180">180</a><br /> -Parrot-fish, <a href="#page_223">223</a><br /> -Parsley given as a prize, <a href="#page_082">82</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ its origin; culinary preparation; a symbol of mourning, <a href="#page_083">83</a></span><br /> -Parsley, the food of chargers; a favourite plant with Horace; sung by Anacreon, <a href="#page_083">83</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ seed wine, <a href="#page_333">333</a></span><br /> -Parthian chicken, <a href="#page_157">157</a><br /> -Partridges, <a href="#page_195">195</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ their price; the best parts; their fights, <a href="#page_196">196</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ feathers used for couches, <a href="#page_373">373</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ eggs, <a href="#page_177">177</a></span><br /> -Paschal lamb, <a href="#page_146">146</a><br /> -Passum wine, <a href="#page_330">330</a><br /> -Pastry of the Jews; among the Egyptians; with the Greeks and Romans, <a href="#page_284">284</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ patronised by eminent persons, <a href="#page_290">290</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ its progress, <a href="#page_291">291</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ cooks, <a href="#page_285">285</a>, <a href="#page_290">290</a></span><br /> -Patinæ, dishes, <a href="#page_263">263</a><br /> -Peach-tree, supposed to be poisonous; price of peaches; how preserved, <a href="#page_104">104</a><br /> -Peacocks, <a href="#page_166">166</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ admired by Alexander the Great; kept in aviaries; their price; exhibited in Greece; appreciated in Rome, <a href="#page_166">166</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ ridiculous consumption; fattened by Livio; of Samos; reared by Tiberius, <a href="#page_167">167</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ served as if alive, <a href="#page_167">167</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ sacrificed to Caligula, <a href="#page_165">165</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ eggs, <a href="#page_177">177</a>, <a href="#page_390">390</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ utility of their feathers, <a href="#page_340">340</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ used by Roman polyphagists, <a href="#page_244">244</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ their tails designed on tables, <a href="#page_369">369</a></span><br /> -Pear-tree, its native place; qualities of pears, <a href="#page_107">107</a><br /> -Peas, <a href="#page_056">56</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ green, little appreciated; grey, relished by the ancients; sold at the Circus, <a href="#page_056">56</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ a kind of bribe, <a href="#page_057">57</a></span><br /> -Pelasgus patronised the beech tree, <a href="#page_023">23</a><br /> -Pelorus celebrated for its oysters (Cape), <a href="#page_244">244</a><br /> -Peniculi, washers, <a href="#page_379">379</a><br /> -Pennyroyal used as a digestive, <a href="#page_090">90</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ wine, <a href="#page_333">333</a></span><br /> -Pentapharmacum of the Emperor Verus, <a href="#page_257">257</a><br /> -Pentateuch of Moses, <a href="#page_010">10</a><br /> -Pepper used by the ancients, <a href="#page_277">277</a><br /> -Perch, from the Rhine; given to the sick; fed in the Moselle; relished by the Romans; how dressed, <a href="#page_232">232</a><br /> -Perdix rustica, the wood-cock, 207<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_463" id="page_463"></a>{463}</span><br /> -Perfumes, used by the guests, <a href="#page_383">383</a><br /> -Persians, fond of water-cresses, <a href="#page_084">84</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ their veneration for water, <a href="#page_293">293</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ predilection of their kings for figs, <a href="#page_113">113</a></span><br /> -Persiller, to give pungency to cheese, <a href="#page_174">174</a><br /> -Pertinax, fond of pheasants, <a href="#page_195">195</a><br /> -Pestles, used for bruising wheat, <a href="#page_025">25</a><br /> -Petronius’s eggs, <a href="#page_201">201</a><br /> -Pharsalians, their mighty appetite, <a href="#page_340">340</a><br /> -Pheasants, relished by Severus, <a href="#page_160">160</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ eggs, <a href="#page_177">177</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ discovered by the Argonauts; kept in aviaries; adorned the triumph of Ptolemy; served in sumptuous repasts, <a href="#page_194">194</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ scarce in Italy; Vitellius relished their brains; sacrificed to Caligula; recommended to weak stomachs; sold frozen, <a href="#page_195">195</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ sausages, <a href="#page_390">390</a></span><br /> -Phenicopter, flamingo, <a href="#page_200">200</a><br /> -Philip of Macedon, fond of apples, <a href="#page_108">108</a><br /> -Philip-le-Bel’s regulations for fast-days, <a href="#page_214">214</a><br /> -Philoxenus, died of indigestion, <a href="#page_212">212</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ a witty epicure, <a href="#page_218">218</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ devoted to degustation, <a href="#page_254">254</a></span><br /> -Phœnicians, abstained from pork, <a href="#page_134">134</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ venerated the ox, <a href="#page_142">142</a></span><br /> -Phrygians, their respect for the ox, <a href="#page_142">142</a><br /> -Phytalus, received a fig-tree from Ceres, <a href="#page_113">113</a><br /> -Picenum cakes, <a href="#page_288">288</a><br /> -Pickled pork, <a href="#page_138">138</a><br /> -Pickles, relished by the ancients, <a href="#page_278">278</a><br /> -Pic-nics, known to the ancients, <a href="#page_344">344</a><br /> -Pie, invented by the Emperor Verus, <a href="#page_286">286</a><br /> -Pig, killed by Ceres, <a href="#page_124">124</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ market at Rome, <a href="#page_129">129</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ portrait of the; its qualities, <a href="#page_133">133</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ offered to Venus; a sign of peace; an emblem of fecundity; abhorred by the Egyptians; forbidden to the Jews; to the Mahomedans, <a href="#page_134">134</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ of Macedonia, <a href="#page_136">136</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ stuffed with game, <a href="#page_137">137</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ forbidden to ramble; of the Abbey St. Antoine, <a href="#page_141">141</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ suckling, <a href="#page_137">137</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ the discoverer of truffles, <a href="#page_279">279</a></span><br /> -Pigeons, how they were caught, <a href="#page_162">162</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ a dainty dish; recommended to the sick; their price; how prepared, <a href="#page_163">163</a></span><br /> -Pigeon-houses, <a href="#page_162">162</a><br /> -Pike, little esteemed by ancient epicures; its multiplication; preparation; longevity, <a href="#page_228">228</a><br /> -Pilau, <a href="#page_258">258</a><br /> -Pilchard, how stuffed by the Romans, <a href="#page_238">238</a><br /> -Pine, consecrated to Cybele, <a href="#page_095">95</a><br /> -Pip-fruit, <a href="#page_106">106</a><br /> -Pique-assiette, parasite, <a href="#page_382">382</a><br /> -Piquette, weak wine of the ancients, <a href="#page_326">326</a><br /> -Pistachio-tree, a native of India; brought to Rome by Vitellius, <a href="#page_120">120</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ nuts, recommended by Avicenna, <a href="#page_121">121</a></span><br /> -Pistores, corn grinders, <a href="#page_025">25</a><br /> -Pithyllus, his protector of the tongue, <a href="#page_255">255</a><br /> -Place of honour in banquets, <a href="#page_373">373</a><br /> -Placites, a kind of bread, <a href="#page_033">33</a><br /> -Plaice, <a href="#page_237">237</a><br /> -Plants, used in seasoning, <a href="#page_086">86</a><br /> -Plato was fond of figs, <a href="#page_113">113</a><br /> -Plautus worked at the mill, <a href="#page_027">27</a><br /> -Plough introduced into Egypt; the Egyptian plough, <a href="#page_012">12</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ the primitive, <a href="#page_013">13</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ its simplicity; ancient; Greek; Anglo-Norman; Gallic, <a href="#page_014">14</a></span><br /> -Plum tree; plums; how preserved; of Reine Claude; of Mirabelle; of Monsieur, <a href="#page_105">105</a><br /> -Plutarch, his vegetarian principles, <a href="#page_126">126</a><br /> -Pochet, her recipe for tea (Madame), <a href="#page_308">308</a><br /> -Poisonous peaches, <a href="#page_104">104</a><br /> -Poitevine sauce, <a href="#page_258">258</a><br /> -Poivre, his description of birds’ nests, <a href="#page_205">205</a><br /> -Poles, fond of cucumbers, <a href="#page_073">73</a><br /> -Politeness of King Clovis, <a href="#page_384">384</a><br /> -Pollio, his answer to Augustus, <a href="#page_099">99</a><br /> -Pollio’s (Vedius) atrocious cruelty, <a href="#page_221">221</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ how he chastised his slaves, <a href="#page_214">214</a></span><br /> -Pollux trained hunting dogs, <a href="#page_179">179</a><br /> -Polypus, its seasoning, <a href="#page_249">249</a><br /> -Pomegranate, fatal to Proserpine; first cultivated in the east; brought into Italy; how preserved; different species, <a href="#page_122">122</a><br /> -Pomona, <a href="#page_095">95</a><br /> -Pompey and the thrushes of Lucullus, <a href="#page_199">199</a><br /> -Pompion, treated without ceremony, <a href="#page_071">71</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ of Egypt; its qualities; how prepared, <a href="#page_072">72</a></span><br /> -Pontic nuts, <a href="#page_120">120</a><br /> -Pontiffs, their banquet (Pagan), <a href="#page_356">356</a><br /> -Poppæia used asses’ milk, <a href="#page_169">169</a><br /> -Poppy, its preparation, 86<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_464" id="page_464"></a>{464}</span><br /> -Pork-meat distributed to the Romans, <a href="#page_130">130</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ abhorred by some nations, <a href="#page_134">134</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ recommended to wrestlers; its reputation, <a href="#page_135">135</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ disguised in various ways, <a href="#page_136">136</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ pickled, <a href="#page_138">138</a></span><br /> -Porpoises, <a href="#page_215">215</a><br /> -Porter, ostiarius, <a href="#page_376">376</a><br /> -Portugal orange, <a href="#page_112">112</a><br /> -Portughan, a name of the orange, <a href="#page_111">111</a><br /> -Portuguese, introduced the orange tree, <a href="#page_111">111</a><br /> -Pot-de-vin, a bribe, <a href="#page_337">337</a><br /> -Poularde à la Viminale, <a href="#page_156">156</a><br /> -Poultry, the best of aliments, <a href="#page_152">152</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ permitted to some religious order, <a href="#page_153">153</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ art of fattening, <a href="#page_161">161</a></span><br /> -Pounded bread, <a href="#page_040">40</a><br /> -Præcocia, apricots, <a href="#page_103">103</a><br /> -Præfectus annonæ, <a href="#page_036">36</a><br /> -Prægustator, <a href="#page_378">378</a><br /> -Prayers before meals, <a href="#page_344">344</a>, <a href="#page_390">390</a><br /> -Prefect of Rome, <a href="#page_355">355</a><br /> -Prestigiators, <a href="#page_395">395</a><br /> -Priapus, a protector of fruit trees, <a href="#page_095">95</a><br /> -Priests of Mars, great epicures, <a href="#page_343">343</a><br /> -Probus restored the vine to Gaul, <a href="#page_322">322</a><br /> -Procillatores, servants, <a href="#page_377">377</a><br /> -Procurator, major-domo, <a href="#page_260">260</a><br /> -Præneste enriched by hazel nuts, <a href="#page_120">120</a><br /> -Profusion in the City of London (Ancient), <a href="#page_351">351</a><br /> -Prodigality of the Earl of Warwick, <a href="#page_351">351</a><br /> -Prometheus sacrificed an ox, <a href="#page_124">124</a><br /> -Proserpine, was too fond of pomegranates, <a href="#page_122">122</a><br /> -Provisions mentioned in the Scriptures, <a href="#page_354">354</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ price of, <a href="#page_358">358</a></span><br /> -Prytanea in Greece, <a href="#page_347">347</a><br /> -Ptisana, barley water, <a href="#page_042">42</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ a sorry liquid, <a href="#page_304">304</a></span><br /> -Pudding, Carthaginian, <a href="#page_043">43</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ hasty, <a href="#page_044">44</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ black, <a href="#page_138">138</a></span><br /> -Pullarius, his office, <a href="#page_156">156</a><br /> -Pultiphagists, <a href="#page_033">33</a><br /> -Punch given by Sir Edward Russell, <a href="#page_411">411</a><br /> -Purslaine mixed with salad, <a href="#page_068">68</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ its properties, <a href="#page_069">69</a></span><br /> -Pyanepsia, one of the festivals of Apollo, <a href="#page_053">53</a><br /> -Pygmalion, his severity, <a href="#page_125">125</a><br /> -Pythagoras, abstained from beans, <a href="#page_053">53</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ was a vegetarian, <a href="#page_126">126</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ recommended honey, <a href="#page_273">273</a></span><br /> -<br /> -<a name="Q" id="Q"></a>Quails, a sovereign remedy, <a href="#page_196">196</a><br /> -Quails, food of the Israelites; supposed to cause epilepsy; banished from the Roman tables, <a href="#page_196">196</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ fights, <a href="#page_197">197</a></span><br /> -Quenelles of pig’s liver and brains, <a href="#page_140">140</a><br /> -Quince tree, a native of Cydon, <a href="#page_106">106</a><br /> -Quinces, their beneficial qualities; preserved in honey, <a href="#page_106">106</a><br /> -Quince wine, <a href="#page_107">107</a><br /> -<br /> -<a name="R" id="R"></a>Rabbits taught mankind the art of fortification; overthrow Tarragona; defeated by the Roman troops, <a href="#page_189">189</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ of Macedonia; how prepared, <a href="#page_190">190</a></span><br /> -Radishes of Judea; price in Rome; supposed to produce cabbages; how preserved, <a href="#page_079">79</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ pickled, <a href="#page_390">390</a></span><br /> -Ragouts of the middle ages, <a href="#page_258">258</a><br /> -Raleigh, his account of the herring fishery (Sir Walter), <a href="#page_239">239</a><br /> -Rancidity of butter, how to attenuate it, <a href="#page_172">172</a><br /> -Raspberry, <a href="#page_115">115</a><br /> -Ratafia, <a href="#page_103">103</a><br /> -Rauwolf, the first to mention coffee, <a href="#page_311">311</a><br /> -Rearing of cattle, <a href="#page_127">127</a><br /> -Réaumur, his experiments to hatch chickens, <a href="#page_157">157</a><br /> -Red mullet, <a href="#page_218">218</a><br /> -Redstone’s funeral banquet (Sir John), <a href="#page_359">359</a><br /> -Reform Club, its splendid entertainments, <a href="#page_408">408</a><br /> -Reine Claude, plums of, <a href="#page_105">105</a><br /> -Remy’s silver table (St.), <a href="#page_370">370</a><br /> -René of Sicily introduced the plum-tree, <a href="#page_105">105</a><br /> -Repasts, <a href="#page_339">339</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ in common, <a href="#page_346">346</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ variety of repasts; of the Jews, <a href="#page_354">354</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ offered to Jupiter, <a href="#page_356">356</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ of Louis XIV, <a href="#page_349">349</a></span><br /> -Reservoirs on the house tops, <a href="#page_096">96</a><br /> -Rheumatism, cured by drinking ale, <a href="#page_301">301</a><br /> -Rhoites wine, <a href="#page_305">305</a><br /> -Rhombus, its seasoning, <a href="#page_235">235</a><br /> -Rice, <a href="#page_043">43</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ a nutritious grain, <a href="#page_020">20</a></span><br /> -River cray-fish, <a href="#page_248">248</a><br /> -Rivers, venerated by some nations, <a href="#page_293">293</a><br /> -Roast beef, the principal article of food in the Homeric ages, <a href="#page_339">339</a><br /> -Robert sauce, <a href="#page_258">258</a><br /> -Robigus, a god, <a href="#page_019">19</a><br /> -Robus, a variety of corn, <a href="#page_019">19</a><br /> -Rochelle wine, its price in England, 338<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_465" id="page_465"></a>{465}</span><br /> -Rocket, how used by the ancients; its properties, <a href="#page_087">87</a><br /> -Rockingham, his banquet (Lord), <a href="#page_227">227</a><br /> -Roebuck, with spikenard; aux prunes; aux amandes de pin, <a href="#page_184">184</a><br /> -Roll bread, <a href="#page_040">40</a><br /> -Romans, fond of agriculture, <a href="#page_011">11</a>, <a href="#page_013">13</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ eat dogs, <a href="#page_151">151</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ their manipulation of butter, <a href="#page_171">171</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ fond of fish, <a href="#page_212">212</a>, <a href="#page_216">216</a></span><br /> -Rome its corruption; its fall, <a href="#page_401">401</a><br /> -Romulus, studied the advancement of agriculture, <a href="#page_013">13</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ was found under a fig-tree, <a href="#page_114">114</a></span><br /> -Rope dancers, <a href="#page_395">395</a><br /> -Roquefort cheese, <a href="#page_174">174</a>, <a href="#page_175">175</a><br /> -Rosatum wine, <a href="#page_331">331</a><br /> -Rousseau, (J. J.) was not a practical vegetarian, <a href="#page_126">126</a><br /> -Rue, a counter poison; its properties, <a href="#page_090">90</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: .5em;">“ wine, <a href="#page_333">333</a></span><br /> -Russell (Sir Edward), his memorable punch, <a href="#page_411">411</a><br /> -Rye, a detestable food, according to Pliny, <a href="#page_020">20</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: .5em;">“ a substitute for coffee, <a href="#page_311">311</a></span><br /> -<br /> -<a name="S" id="S"></a>Sacred chickens, <a href="#page_156">156</a><br /> -Salad could not be procured for a queen, <a href="#page_051">51</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ in the middle ages, <a href="#page_075">75</a></span><br /> -Salangan, sea-swallow, <a href="#page_204">204</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ nests, <a href="#page_205">205</a></span><br /> -Salmasius, on truffles, <a href="#page_281">281</a><br /> -Salmon, when first mentioned; sung by Ausonius; from Aquitaine; abundant in Scotland, <a href="#page_233">233</a><br /> -Salonite cheese, <a href="#page_174">174</a><br /> -Salt, consecrated to the gods; from the asphaltite lake; used by the Jews; tax on salt, <a href="#page_267">267</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ superstitions concerning salt, <a href="#page_267">267</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ salt works in Italy; eaten with bread; four sorts, <a href="#page_268">268</a></span><br /> -Salt-meat, its preparation, <a href="#page_131">131</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ cellars, <a href="#page_389">389</a></span><br /> -Salts, digestive, <a href="#page_269">269</a><br /> -Samos, its oil, <a href="#page_098">98</a><br /> -Sandaligeruli, servants, <a href="#page_377">377</a><br /> -Sandals, <a href="#page_388">388</a><br /> -Sapa, cooked wine, <a href="#page_326">326</a><br /> -Sardinia, renowned for hams, <a href="#page_137">137</a><br /> -Saturn, the inventor of agriculture, <a href="#page_009">9</a><br /> -Saucepans of the ancients, <a href="#page_262">262</a><br /> -Saucers, <a href="#page_263">263</a><br /> -Sauces of various kinds, <a href="#page_257">257</a><br /> -Sauce manufacturers, <a href="#page_257">257</a><br /> -Saupiquet sauce, <a href="#page_258">258</a><br /> -Sausages of Lucania, <a href="#page_138">138</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ various, <a href="#page_140">140</a></span><br /> -Savillum pie, <a href="#page_286">286</a><br /> -Savory, <a href="#page_089">89</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ wine, <a href="#page_333">333</a></span><br /> -Scales of the ancients, <a href="#page_130">130</a><br /> -Scaliger, repugnance to water-cresses, <a href="#page_084">84</a><br /> -Scallop of Tarentum, <a href="#page_246">246</a><br /> -Scarus, a fish, <a href="#page_223">223</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ its renown, <a href="#page_213">213</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ celebrated for its anomalies, <a href="#page_224">224</a></span><br /> -Scate, its back appreciated by the Greeks, <a href="#page_233">233</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ despised by the Romans; its varieties according to Lacépède; its eggs a curious remedy, <a href="#page_233">233</a></span><br /> -Scissor, a carver, <a href="#page_377">377</a><br /> -Scoparii, sweepers, <a href="#page_378">378</a><br /> -Scythians, drinkers of milk, <a href="#page_168">168</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ their manipulation of butter, <a href="#page_171">171</a></span><br /> -Sea, peopled with gods, <a href="#page_294">294</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: .5em;">“ crawfish, its culinary preparation, <a href="#page_247">247</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: .5em;">“ eels, fed on the flesh of slaves, <a href="#page_208">208</a>, <a href="#page_214">214</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: .5em;">“ “ heard their master’s voice; ornamented with necklaces, <a href="#page_220">220</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: .5em;">“ “ how fattened; where caught; how prepared; from the Tiber, <a href="#page_221">221</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: .5em;">“ “ venerated by the Egyptians; of a considerable size, <a href="#page_222">222</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: .5em;">“ hedgehog, relished by the ancients; how prepared, <a href="#page_245">245</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: .5em;">“ swallow, <a href="#page_204">204</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: .5em;">“ wolf, an exquisite fish; a child of the gods; eclipsed the sturgeon; where caught; relished by the Greeks, <a href="#page_223">223</a></span><br /> -Seals, <a href="#page_215">215</a><br /> -Seasoning, plants used in, <a href="#page_086">86</a><br /> -Seasonings, <a href="#page_266">266</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ with garum, <a href="#page_272">272</a></span><br /> -Seats, <a href="#page_388">388</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ used by the Hebrews, <a href="#page_372">372</a></span><br /> -Secale, rye, <a href="#page_020">20</a><br /> -Sechar, an exhilarating beverage, <a href="#page_100">100</a><br /> -Seeds, <a href="#page_046">46</a><br /> -Sejus seasoning, <a href="#page_161">161</a><br /> -Selech, his services to mankind, <a href="#page_267">267</a><br /> -Seneca, his declamations against luxury; his enormous wealth, <a href="#page_252">252</a><br /> -Sensualism of the ancients, <a href="#page_345">345</a><br /> -Sentinum wine, <a href="#page_328">328</a><br /> -Sepia, its black liquid; its conjugal affection; how it was dressed, 234<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_466" id="page_466"></a>{466}</span><br /> -Sepia, an estimable dish, <a href="#page_234">234</a><br /> -Sergius, his fishponds, <a href="#page_243">243</a><br /> -Servants, <a href="#page_376">376</a><br /> -Sesame, how used, <a href="#page_086">86</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ cakes, <a href="#page_020">20</a></span><br /> -Severus, fond of geese; of pheasants, <a href="#page_160">160</a>, <a href="#page_195">195</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ hares, <a href="#page_189">189</a></span><br /> -Sévigné, her opinion on coffee (Mde. de), <a href="#page_312">312</a><br /> -Shad, sold to the plebeians, <a href="#page_234">234</a><br /> -Shadows, a kind of parasites, <a href="#page_388">388</a><br /> -Sheep bread, <a href="#page_040">40</a><br /> -Shell, imitating precious woods, <a href="#page_369">369</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ fish, <a href="#page_241">241</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ “ its seasoning in Italy; how dressed by Apicius; from Lake Lucrinus; from Pelorus; how cooked; when served; relished by the ancients, <a href="#page_242">242</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ fruit, <a href="#page_117">117</a></span><br /> -Shepherds, ancient, <a href="#page_127">127</a><br /> -Shoes of the Romans, <a href="#page_388">388</a><br /> -Shrimps used for garum, <a href="#page_270">270</a><br /> -Sicilian cooks, <a href="#page_344">344</a><br /> -Sicily, renowned for cooks, <a href="#page_256">256</a><br /> -Sideboard, <a href="#page_264">264</a><br /> -Sieves, <a href="#page_265">265</a><br /> -Sigma, a horse-shoe shaped table, <a href="#page_369">369</a><br /> -Silatum, a Roman drink, <a href="#page_334">334</a><br /> -Siligineus panis, a kind of bread, <a href="#page_038">38</a><br /> -Siligo, a species of wheat, <a href="#page_019">19</a><br /> -Simnels, or wigs, <a href="#page_291">291</a><br /> -Simon’s speculation on frogs, <a href="#page_249">249</a><br /> -Sitarchi, magistrates for the allotment of corn, <a href="#page_021">21</a><br /> -Sitocome, an inspector of corn, <a href="#page_021">21</a><br /> -Sitologi, officers to superintend the purchase of corn, <a href="#page_021">21</a><br /> -Sitometræ, officers watching over the measurement of corn, <a href="#page_021">21</a><br /> -Sitonæ, inspectors of corn, <a href="#page_021">21</a><br /> -Sitophylaces, officers regulating the sale, <a href="#page_021">21</a><br /> -Skeleton, exhibited to the guests, <a href="#page_385">385</a>, <a href="#page_393">393</a><br /> -Slavery in ancient times, <a href="#page_208">208</a><br /> -Slaves, sold by Cato; cruelties practised against slaves; punished by crucifixion; put to death to amuse a friend, <a href="#page_208">208</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ thrown to the sea-eels, <a href="#page_208">208</a>, <a href="#page_214">214</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ more null than vile, <a href="#page_209">209</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ eating with their masters, <a href="#page_356">356</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ their stigmas, <a href="#page_376">376</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ lettered slaves, <a href="#page_376">376</a></span><br /> -Snails, a delicate hors-d’œvre, <a href="#page_265">265</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ how fattened, <a href="#page_326">326</a></span><br /> -Snipe, <a href="#page_207">207</a><br /> -Snow, preserved in cellars, <a href="#page_295">295</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: .5em;">“ cullender, <a href="#page_226">226</a></span><br /> -Soles, <a href="#page_237">237</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ compared to partridges, <a href="#page_224">224</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ much sought after, <a href="#page_237">237</a></span><br /> -Solon, his sumptuary laws, <a href="#page_108">108</a>, <a href="#page_347">347</a><br /> -Sorrel, how prepared, <a href="#page_069">69</a><br /> -Soterides, Nicomedes’ cook, <a href="#page_044">44</a><br /> -Sow, Jupiter’s first nurse, <a href="#page_134">134</a><br /> -Sow-thistle, given up to rabbits, <a href="#page_087">87</a><br /> -Sowing taught by Ceres, <a href="#page_024">24</a><br /> -Spain, celebrated for garum, <a href="#page_243">243</a><br /> -Spaniards, fond of acorns, <a href="#page_024">24</a><br /> -Spanish camomile, mixed with wine, <a href="#page_090">90</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ dancers, <a href="#page_395">395</a></span><br /> -Spectacles introduced in banquets, <a href="#page_383">383</a><br /> -Spelt, a species of wheat, <a href="#page_019">19</a><br /> -Spinach, little known to the ancients, <a href="#page_063">63</a><br /> -Spoons, <a href="#page_263">263</a><br /> -Squirrel, <a href="#page_190">190</a><br /> -Stag, <a href="#page_182">182</a><br /> -Stags’ horns consecrated to Diana, <a href="#page_180">180</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ flesh supposed to ensure longevity, <a href="#page_183">183</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ fillet of stag; shoulder of stag; à la Persane; à l’Hortensius; à la Néméenne, <a href="#page_183">183</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ pies, <a href="#page_290">290</a></span><br /> -Starling, recommended by physicians; an erudite starling, <a href="#page_200">200</a><br /> -Statues of gods placed on the table, <a href="#page_389">389</a><br /> -Steward, dispensator, <a href="#page_376">376</a><br /> -Stilphon, his answer to Cybele, <a href="#page_081">81</a><br /> -Stokers, focarii, <a href="#page_378">378</a><br /> -Stone fruit, <a href="#page_097">97</a><br /> -Stork, <a href="#page_193">193</a>, <a href="#page_204">204</a><br /> -Stoves of the ancients, <a href="#page_366">366</a><br /> -Strawberries, highly appreciated, <a href="#page_115">115</a><br /> -Strigil, used in the baths, <a href="#page_387">387</a><br /> -Structores, servants, <a href="#page_260">260</a>, <a href="#page_377">377</a><br /> -Strutiophagous tribes, <a href="#page_203">203</a><br /> -Stuffed sucking pork, <a href="#page_139">139</a><br /> -Sturgeon, <a href="#page_216">216</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ a royal fish, <a href="#page_214">214</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ its price; compared to ambrosia; honours it received; announced by the sound of trumpets; an imperial dish in China, <a href="#page_216">216</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ its weight, <a href="#page_217">217</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ compared to peacocks, <a href="#page_224">224</a></span><br /> -Style of living in the 14th century, <a href="#page_352">352</a><br /> -Sucking-pigs, <a href="#page_137">137</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 3em;">“ stuffed, 139<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_467" id="page_467"></a>{467}</span></span><br /> -Sucking-pig, with puddings, <a href="#page_351">351</a><br /> -Sugar, the honey of reeds; the Indian salt, <a href="#page_275">275</a><br /> -Sultana coffee, <a href="#page_313">313</a><br /> -Sumach, <a href="#page_092">92</a><br /> -Sumptuary laws, <a href="#page_152">152</a>, <a href="#page_252">252</a>, <a href="#page_346">346</a>, <a href="#page_350">350</a>, <a href="#page_381">381</a><br /> -Supper, <a href="#page_342">342</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ of the Hebrews, <a href="#page_343">343</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ primitive of the Romans; in the open air, <a href="#page_344">344</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ given by the Roman Emperors, <a href="#page_357">357</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ a Roman, <a href="#page_386">386</a></span><br /> -Swallow, sea, <a href="#page_204">204</a><br /> -Swan, <a href="#page_193">193</a><br /> -Sweepers, scoparii, <a href="#page_378">378</a><br /> -Sweet marjoram, when used, <a href="#page_089">89</a><br /> -Sweet wine, <a href="#page_326">326</a><br /> -Sword-fish, how dressed in Greece; despised by the Romans, <a href="#page_234">234</a><br /> -Sybaris, renowned for its good cheer, <a href="#page_126">126</a><br /> -Sybarites, their meditations upon a banquet, <a href="#page_227">227</a><br /> -Sycophants, <a href="#page_113">113</a><br /> -Symphoniaci, musicians, <a href="#page_389">389</a><br /> -Symposiarch, <a href="#page_391">391</a><br /> -Synthesis, a convivial dress, <a href="#page_389">389</a><br /> -Syracuse, its proverbial gastronomy, <a href="#page_127">127</a><br /> -Syrian dancers, <a href="#page_395">395</a><br /> -Syrup of truffles, <a href="#page_280">280</a><br /> -<br /> -<a name="T" id="T"></a>Tables, before each guest; veneered with gold; of bronze; of wood; of silver; circular, <a href="#page_368">368</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ spotted or veined; of various forms; changed at each course; how cleaned; of Cicero, <a href="#page_369">369</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ of ivory, <a href="#page_394">394</a></span><br /> -Taillevant, the cook of Charles VII. of France, <a href="#page_193">193</a><br /> -Talmouses, a kind of pastry, <a href="#page_292">292</a><br /> -Tarentum, renowned for its repasts, <a href="#page_126">126</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ the abode of luxury, <a href="#page_246">246</a></span><br /> -Tarragona overthrown by rabbits, <a href="#page_189">189</a><br /> -Tarts, of various sorts, <a href="#page_290">290</a><br /> -Taste, its definition, <a href="#page_124">124</a><br /> -Tax on salt, <a href="#page_268">268</a><br /> -Tea, gathering, <a href="#page_306">306</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: .5em;">“ of two kinds; heating; rolling, <a href="#page_307">307</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: .5em;">“ its miraculous origin, <a href="#page_308">308</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: .5em;">“ compared to ambrosia, <a href="#page_309">309</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: .5em;">“ tasters, <a href="#page_308">308</a></span><br /> -Teal, <a href="#page_206">206</a><br /> -Teeth, of ivory, <a href="#page_388">388</a><br /> -Teething repast, <a href="#page_357">357</a><br /> -Tence sauce, <a href="#page_258">258</a><br /> -Tench, mentioned by Ausonius; left to the common people, <a href="#page_236">236</a><br /> -Tethalassomenon wine, <a href="#page_330">330</a><br /> -Tétines à la Flamine; à la Salienne, <a href="#page_140">140</a><br /> -Thalassites wine, <a href="#page_330">330</a><br /> -Thasian nut, <a href="#page_117">117</a><br /> -Thasos wine, <a href="#page_328">328</a><br /> -Theagenes, a beef eater, <a href="#page_143">143</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ his voracity, <a href="#page_339">339</a></span><br /> -Theophrastus mentions the cherrytree, <a href="#page_102">102</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ “ the plum tree, <a href="#page_105">105</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ fond of pears, <a href="#page_107">107</a></span><br /> -Thesmophoria, a feast in honour of Ceres, <a href="#page_022">22</a><br /> -Thessalians, their appetite, <a href="#page_340">340</a><br /> -Thimbron, a culinary star, <a href="#page_254">254</a><br /> -Thorian law, respecting cattle, <a href="#page_127">127</a><br /> -Thrashing of corn, <a href="#page_014">14</a><br /> -Thrushes, <a href="#page_197">197</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ supplied an abundant manure; not eaten by children; sung by Homer; sent as wedding presents; served at sumptuous feasts; from Daphne, <a href="#page_197">197</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ kept in aviaries; sold by Varro’s aunt; how fed; their price; in the shape of crowns, <a href="#page_198">198</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ prescribed to Pompey; recommended to convalescents; their brains; eaten by Heliogabalus, <a href="#page_199">199</a></span><br /> -Thurium, its oil, <a href="#page_098">98</a><br /> -Thyme, its qualities; used for aromatic liqueurs, <a href="#page_089">89</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ wine, <a href="#page_333">333</a></span><br /> -Thys, his voracity, <a href="#page_339">339</a><br /> -Tiberius, fond of melons, <a href="#page_078">78</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ reared peacocks, <a href="#page_167">167</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ his generosity, <a href="#page_257">257</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ poisoned by mushrooms, <a href="#page_282">282</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ how he encouraged artists, <a href="#page_318">318</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ his sumptuary regulations, <a href="#page_347">347</a></span><br /> -Timachidas, a cook and a poet, <a href="#page_254">254</a><br /> -Titormus, his voracity, <a href="#page_339">339</a><br /> -Tonsores, barbers, <a href="#page_387">387</a><br /> -Tooth-powder used by the Romans, <a href="#page_387">387</a><br /> -Tortoise, its blood; of an enormous size, <a href="#page_246">246</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ how dressed, <a href="#page_246">246</a>, <a href="#page_247">247</a></span><br /> -Tourte, a kind of cake, <a href="#page_291">291</a><br /> -Tractatores, servants in the baths, <a href="#page_387">387</a><br /> -Tremellius, took the surname of Scrofa, <a href="#page_128">128</a><br /> -Triclinarches, chief steward, 378<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_468" id="page_468"></a>{468}</span><br /> -Triclinium, <a href="#page_372">372</a>, <a href="#page_278">278</a><br /> -Trimalcio, a celebrated cook, <a href="#page_256">256</a><br /> -Trimestre, a species of corn, <a href="#page_020">20</a><br /> -Tripes, their reputation, <a href="#page_143">143</a><br /> -Triptolemus, the inventor of agriculture, <a href="#page_009">9</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ was a vegetarian, <a href="#page_124">124</a></span><br /> -Triticum, wheat, <a href="#page_019">19</a><br /> -Trojan pig, <a href="#page_137">137</a><br /> -Tromelia, renowned for cheese, <a href="#page_174">174</a><br /> -Trophy of agriculture, <a href="#page_411">411</a><br /> -Trout, little appreciated by the Greeks;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ relished by the Romans; how dressed, <a href="#page_230">230</a></span><br /> -Troyenne, hog à la, <a href="#page_136">136</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ wild boar à la, <a href="#page_406">406</a></span><br /> -Truffles, the daughters of thunder;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ where they grow; various sorts, <a href="#page_279">279</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ how prepared, <a href="#page_280">280</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ discovered by pigs, <a href="#page_135">135</a>, <a href="#page_279">279</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ syrup of, <a href="#page_280">280</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ how preserved, <a href="#page_281">281</a></span><br /> -Tunny-Fish, its entrails; from Samos;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ offered to Neptune; of Pachynum; fishery of the Synopians; how prepared, <a href="#page_225">225</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ obstructed the navigation of Alexander; of an immense size, <a href="#page_226">226</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ used for garum, <a href="#page_270">270</a></span><br /> -Turbot, a delicious food; compared to the pheasant; the turbot of Domitian, <a href="#page_224">224</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ of Attica, <a href="#page_225">225</a></span><br /> -Turnips, from Thebes; Amiternum; how they were eaten, <a href="#page_067">67</a><br /> -Turkey, still retains the use of garum, <a href="#page_273">273</a><br /> -Turkey-hen, <a href="#page_163">163</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ how many are required to eat a turkey-hen; celebrated by Sophocles; bewailing the death of Meleager; reared in Roman farms; scarce in Egypt and Greece; introduced into Rome, <a href="#page_164">164</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ sacrificed to Caligula; how fattened; à l’Africaine, <a href="#page_165">165</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ how prepared, <a href="#page_166">166</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ introduced into various countries; admired by Charles IX. of France, <a href="#page_165">165</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ turkey eggs, <a href="#page_166">166</a></span><br /> -Turtle dove, <a href="#page_207">207</a><br /> -Twelfth-night cake, its composition, <a href="#page_054">54</a><br /> -Typhes, a sort of bread, <a href="#page_033">33</a><br /> -Tyrontes, a sort of bread, <a href="#page_033">33</a><br /> -Tyrotarichus, a popular dish, <a href="#page_174">174</a><br /> -<br /> -<a name="U" id="U"></a>Uladislas (King), his repugnance to apples, <a href="#page_108">108</a><br /> -Ulric (St.) festival of, <a href="#page_215">215</a><br /> -Ulysses, renowned for carving, <a href="#page_129">129</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ laid the cloth, <a href="#page_252">252</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ a model of delicacy, <a href="#page_380">380</a></span><br /> -Unguentarii, perfumers, <a href="#page_387">387</a><br /> -Utensils, culinary, <a href="#page_261">261</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ of the 14th century, <a href="#page_265">265</a></span><br /> -<br /> -<a name="V-i" id="V-i"></a>Vanilla chocolate, <a href="#page_313">313</a><br /> -Variety of repasts, <a href="#page_354">354</a><br /> -Varro’s aviary, <a href="#page_198">198</a><br /> -Vase of the House of Brunswick, <a href="#page_302">302</a><br /> -Vases of Sardonyx, <a href="#page_320">320</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ of silver; of gold, <a href="#page_321">321</a></span><br /> -Vatel, his tragic death, <a href="#page_215">215</a><br /> -Vauban’s recipe for eating corn in soup, <a href="#page_015">15</a><br /> -Veal, à la Syracusaine; à la Tarentaise, <a href="#page_144">144</a><br /> -Vegetables, <a href="#page_049">49</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ dried, <a href="#page_053">53</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ relished by the Romans, <a href="#page_050">50</a>, <a href="#page_051">51</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ how preserved; scarce in England, three centuries ago, <a href="#page_051">51</a></span><br /> -Vegetarians, <a href="#page_126">126</a><br /> -Venafrum, <a href="#page_099">99</a><br /> -Venison, appreciated by eastern nations, <a href="#page_181">181</a><br /> -Ventilation of the dining-room, <a href="#page_392">392</a><br /> -Ventre de truie à l’Athénienne; à la Romaine, <a href="#page_139">139</a><br /> -Verjuice, its ancient use, <a href="#page_277">277</a><br /> -Vertumnus, <a href="#page_095">95</a><br /> -Verus (the Emperor), invented a new dish, <a href="#page_257">257</a>, <a href="#page_286">286</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ his couches, <a href="#page_373">373</a></span><br /> -Vespucius (Americus) introduced the turkey into Portugal, <a href="#page_165">165</a><br /> -Vesta, the goddess of bakers, <a href="#page_037">37</a><br /> -Vestis cœnatoria, convivial dress, <a href="#page_388">388</a><br /> -Vicar’s wine, <a href="#page_337">337</a><br /> -Victoria, coronation banquet of H. M. Queen, <a href="#page_408">408</a><br /> -Victua, the goddess of food, <a href="#page_356">356</a><br /> -Villar’s Swiss porter, <a href="#page_341">341</a><br /> -Vine, cultivated in England, <a href="#page_335">335</a><br /> -Vinegar, its alleged qualities; from Egypt; used to cool the cannons, <a href="#page_278">278</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ cruet, <a href="#page_264">264</a></span><br /> -Vines, protected by the Roman law, 324<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_469" id="page_469"></a>{469}</span><br /> -Vinum Tethalassomenon, <a href="#page_330">330</a><br /> -Violatum wine, <a href="#page_331">331</a><br /> -Vitellius, brought the pistachio tree to Rome, <a href="#page_120">120</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ regaled on pheasants’ brains, <a href="#page_195">195</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ served with a dish of <a href="#page_007">7</a>,000 birds, <a href="#page_208">208</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ grew tired of sea-eels, <a href="#page_221">221</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ his culinary expenses, <a href="#page_257">257</a>, <a href="#page_348">348</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ was an active polyphagist, <a href="#page_341">341</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ his nocturnal banquets, <a href="#page_345">345</a></span><br /> -Vocatores, servants, <a href="#page_377">377</a><br /> -Voracity, examples of, <a href="#page_339">339</a>, <a href="#page_341">341</a><br /> -Vulture, <a href="#page_194">194</a><br /> -<br /> -<a name="W" id="W"></a>Walnut tree, a native of Asia, consecrated to Jupiter, reserved to Persian kings, <a href="#page_118">118</a><br /> -Walnuts, when served; how eaten; their qualities; used as an antidote; strewed on the nuptial chamber, <a href="#page_119">119</a><br /> -Warwick, his prodigality (Earl of), <a href="#page_351">351</a><br /> -Washers, peniculi, <a href="#page_379">379</a><br /> -Water, a vivifying principle; venerated by ancient nations, <a href="#page_293">293</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ conveyed into Rome, <a href="#page_295">295</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ its curative virtue, <a href="#page_296">296</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ cure system, practised by the Romans, <a href="#page_297">297</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ hot, used to drink, <a href="#page_296">296</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ cresses, a native of Crete; esteemed by the Persians; despised by Plutarch; their properties, <a href="#page_084">84</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ an anti-scorbutic; how prepared <a href="#page_085">85</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ hen, <a href="#page_206">206</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ mills, <a href="#page_027">27</a>, <a href="#page_028">28</a></span><br /> -Wax figures among the Romans, <a href="#page_377">377</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: .5em;">“ vases, <a href="#page_318">318</a></span><br /> -Weaning supper, <a href="#page_357">357</a><br /> -Wedding-cake of the Romans, <a href="#page_286">286</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ wine, <a href="#page_337">337</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ repast of H.R.H. the Duke of Clarence, <a href="#page_351">351</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ day banquet, <a href="#page_357">357</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ of Charles VI., <a href="#page_259">259</a></span><br /> -Weights of the ancients, <a href="#page_130">130</a><br /> -Westphalia celebrated for hams, <a href="#page_137">137</a><br /> -Whales, <a href="#page_215">215</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ of four acres, <a href="#page_213">213</a></span><br /> -Wheat, <a href="#page_019">19</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ its price in Greece; public distribution in Rome, <a href="#page_021">21</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ its price in the olden times, <a href="#page_022">22</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ Indian, <a href="#page_044">44</a></span><br /> -Whiting, its light flesh, <a href="#page_230">230</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ its preparation, <a href="#page_231">231</a></span><br /> -Whitten used for tables, <a href="#page_368">368</a><br /> -Wild boar à la Troyenne, <a href="#page_185">185</a>, <a href="#page_406">406</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ of immense size; served by Caranus; raised on farms, <a href="#page_186">186</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ how served, <a href="#page_187">187</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ how prepared, <a href="#page_186">186</a>, <a href="#page_187">187</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ preceded by trumpeters, <a href="#page_187">187</a></span><br /> -Wild marjoram wine, <a href="#page_089">89</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: .5em;">“ thyme, <a href="#page_089">89</a></span><br /> -William the Conqueror, his sumptuous banquets, <a href="#page_352">352</a><br /> -Wind-mills, <a href="#page_029">29</a><br /> -Wine, of grain; of the Britons, <a href="#page_301">301</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: .5em;">“ obtained from fruits, <a href="#page_305">305</a>, <a href="#page_322">322</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: .5em;">“ disliked by some nations, <a href="#page_323">323</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: .5em;">“ method of making, <a href="#page_325">325</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: .5em;">“ fining of; how clarified, <a href="#page_327">327</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: .5em;">“ of different kinds; Greek; Italian, <a href="#page_328">328</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: .5em;">“ of a hundred leaves; white; red; two hundred years old; how to change its colour, <a href="#page_329">329</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: .5em;">“ mixed with sea-water; of Chios; various made wines, <a href="#page_330">330</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: .5em;">“ interdicted to Roman ladies, <a href="#page_331">331</a>, <a href="#page_332">332</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: .5em;">“ its price in Greece; in Rome, <a href="#page_331">331</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: .5em;">“ the drink of generous souls, <a href="#page_332">332</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: .5em;">“ of Campania, <a href="#page_333">333</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: .5em;">“ dealers in, <a href="#page_336">336</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: .5em;">“ used for presents and fees; of citizenship, <a href="#page_337">337</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: .5em;">“ sweet, <a href="#page_326">326</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: .5em;">“ hot, <a href="#page_393">393</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: .5em;">“ press of the ancients, <a href="#page_325">325</a></span><br /> -Wood, an extraordinary eater (Nicholas), <a href="#page_341">341</a><br /> -Woodcock, how prepared, <a href="#page_207">207</a><br /> -Wood-hen, <a href="#page_206">206</a><br /> -Wormwood, esteemed by the Egyptians; its various uses, <a href="#page_093">93</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ wine; its composition; it prevented giddiness, <a href="#page_098">98</a>, <a href="#page_334">334</a></span><br /> -Wreaths of flowers, <a href="#page_391">391</a><br /> -Wrestlers fed on pork, <a href="#page_135">135</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ rewarded with an ox, <a href="#page_142">142</a></span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“ fed with cheese, <a href="#page_173">173</a></span><br /> -<br /> -<a name="X-i" id="X-i"></a>Xerxes, fighting for figs, <a href="#page_114">114</a><br /> -Xiphias fish, <a href="#page_225">225</a><br /> -<br /> -<a name="Y" id="Y"></a>York banquet, <a href="#page_403">403</a><br /> -Ypocras, <a href="#page_338">338</a><br /> -<br /> -<a name="Z" id="Z"></a>Zea, rice wheat, <a href="#page_020">20</a><br /> -Zeno, of Citium, of the same nature as the lupins, <a href="#page_047">47</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: .5em;">“ cooked his lentils himself, <a href="#page_057">57</a></span><br /> -Zythum, beer, <a href="#page_299">299</a><br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_470" id="page_470"></a>{470}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="ERRATA" id="ERRATA"></a>ERRATA.</h2> - -<p><i>Page</i> 16, <i>line</i> 19, <i>for</i> which great and the, <i>read</i> which the great -and glorious. <i>P.</i> 19, <i>l.</i> 16, <i>for</i> Picardy to make bread, <i>read</i> in -Picardy. To make bread. <i>P.</i> 19, <i>l.</i> 16, <i>for</i> of leaven and, <i>read</i> of -leaven is required, and. <i>P.</i> 26, <i>l.</i> 6, <i>for</i> Flamine, <i>read</i> Flamen. -<i>P.</i> 26, <i>l.</i> 25, <i>for</i> leaves <i>read</i> loaves. <i>P.</i> 27, <i>l.</i> 20, <i>for</i> -Cabire <i>read</i> Cabira. <i>P.</i> 28, <i>l.</i> 28, <i>for</i> hand-mill; by the Britons, -<i>read</i> hand-mill, by the Britons. <i>P.</i> 32, <i>l.</i> 11, <i>for</i> Megalarte and -Megalomar, <i>read</i> Megalartus and Megalomazus. <i>P.</i> 33, <i>l.</i> 2, <i>for</i> -escarites, <i>read</i> escharites. <i>P.</i> 33, <i>l.</i> 7, <i>for</i> melitutes, <i>read</i> -melitates. <i>P.</i> 37, <i>l.</i> 8, <i>for</i> Septier, <i>read</i> Setier. <i>P.</i> 50, <i>l.</i> -25, <i>for</i> Ciens cheris, <i>read</i> lieux cheris. <i>P.</i> 63, <i>l.</i> 28, <i>for</i> -chrysolacanon, <i>read</i> chrysolachanon. <i>P.</i> 65, <i>l.</i> 34, <i>for</i> has, -<i>read</i> have. <i>P.</i> 67, <i>l.</i> 20, <i>for</i> Amitermes, <i>read</i> Amiternum. <i>P.</i> -68, <i>l.</i> 18, <i>for</i> possessed, <i>read</i> possesses. <i>P.</i> 79, <i>l.</i> 11, <i>for</i> -Algidea, <i>read</i> Algidus. <i>P.</i> 84, <i>l.</i> 25, <i>for</i> dressed it in, <i>read</i> -dressed in. <i>P.</i> 93, <i>l.</i> 32, <i>for</i> Corcyrus, <i>read</i> Corcyra. <i>P.</i> 98, -<i>l.</i> 15, <i>for</i> Halmade, <i>read</i> Halmades. <i>P.</i> 99, <i>l.</i> 26, <i>for</i> -Venafra, <i>read</i> Venafrum. <i>P.</i> 100, <i>l.</i> 31, <i>for</i> sechar, <i>read</i> -schecar. <i>P.</i> 103, <i>l.</i> 11, <i>for</i> Cæcilian, <i>read</i> Cecilian. <i>P.</i> 106, -<i>l.</i> 18, <i>for</i> fruit of, <i>read</i> fruit, the. <i>P.</i> 124, <i>l.</i> 31, <i>for</i> -Hyberbius, <i>read</i> Hyperbius. <i>P.</i> 125, <i>l.</i> 2, <i>for</i> Erichtonius, <i>read</i> -Erichthonius. <i>P.</i> 129, <i>l.</i> 1, <i>for</i> curators, <i>read</i> curator. <i>P.</i> -129, <i>l.</i> 25, <i>for</i> life, <i>read</i> life, the. <i>P.</i> 136, <i>l.</i> 16, <i>for</i> -Chalies, <i>read</i> Chalcis. <i>P.</i> 139, <i>l.</i> 38, <i>for</i> à la Bœotienne -<i>read</i> à la Béotienne. <i>P.</i> 143, <i>l.</i> 15, <i>for</i> Thasos, <i>read</i> Thasus. -<i>P.</i> 149, <i>l.</i> 2, <i>for</i> Mœlos, <i>read</i> Melos. <i>P.</i> 153, <i>l.</i> 2, <i>for</i> -Carniphobis, <i>read</i> Carniphobus. <i>P.</i> 150, <i>l.</i> 25, <i>for</i> Scipio, -Metellus, and, <i>read</i> Scipio Metellus and. <i>P.</i> 170, <i>l.</i> 26, <i>for</i> -philosopher, <i>read</i> philologist. <i>P.</i> 171, <i>l.</i> 17, <i>for</i> bouturos, -<i>read</i> bouturon. <i>P.</i> 176, <i>l.</i> 7, <i>for</i> consort of Nero, <i>read</i> consort -of Augustus. <i>P.</i> 189, <i>l.</i> 5, <i>for</i> consectuive, <i>read</i> consecutive. -<i>P.</i> 203, <i>l.</i> 23, <i>for</i> Marmot, <i>read</i> Marmol. <i>P.</i> 213, <i>l.</i> 9, <i>for</i> -scare, <i>read</i> scar. <i>P.</i> 216, <i>l.</i> 9, et passim, <i>for</i> accipenser, -<i>read</i> acipenser. <i>P.</i> 225, <i>l.</i> 8, <i>for</i> Pachynum, <i>read</i> Pachynus. -<i>P.</i> 296, <i>l.</i> 13, <i>for</i> Sicyona, <i>read</i> Sicyon. <i>P.</i> 230, <i>l.</i> 23, -<i>for</i> pèsant, <i>read</i> pèsent. <i>P.</i> 235, <i>l.</i> 21, <i>for</i> of Scyathus, -<i>read</i> of Sciathos. <i>P.</i> 236, <i>l.</i> 29, <i>for</i> the Mostella, <i>read</i> the -Mosella. <i>P.</i> 237, <i>l.</i> 17, <i>for</i> the Bulistes, <i>read</i> the Balistes. -<i>P.</i> 238, <i>l.</i> 2, <i>for</i> of Phaleres, <i>read</i> of Phalera. <i>P.</i> 242, <i>l.</i> -9, <i>for</i> of Polareo, <i>read</i> of Pelorus. <i>P.</i> 247, <i>l.</i> 6, <i>for</i> -Minturnus, <i>read</i> Minturnæ. <i>P.</i> 250, <i>l.</i> 12, <i>for</i> a hook, <i>read</i> to -hook. <i>P.</i> 251, <i>l.</i> 24, <i>for</i> Pandarea, <i>read</i> Pandarus. <i>P.</i> 253, <i>l.</i> -12, <i>for</i> the act of eating, <i>read</i> the art of eating. <i>P.</i> 378, <i>l.</i> 3, -<i>for</i> Cnide, <i>read</i> Cnidus. <i>P.</i> 270, <i>l.</i> 12, <i>for</i> Acarnidea, -Alopecomesia, <i>read</i> Acarne, Alopeconnesus. <i>P.</i> 291, <i>l.</i> 26, <i>for</i> -eleven hundred, <i>read</i> eleven. <i>P.</i> 293, <i>l.</i> 25, <i>for</i> he prayed it -might be, <i>read</i> he prayed that the Tiber might be. <i>P.</i> 309, <i>l.</i> 27, -<i>for</i> Simon introduced Pauli, <i>read</i> Simon Pauli introduced. <i>P.</i> 317, -<i>l.</i> 25, <i>for</i> we have spoken, <i>read</i> we will soon speak. <i>P.</i> 323, <i>l.</i> -1, <i>for</i> Helbon, <i>read</i> Hebron. <i>P.</i> 325, <i>l.</i> 39, <i>for</i> Plate III., -<i>read</i> Plate I. <i>P.</i> 366, <i>l.</i> 30, <i>for</i> minutalim, <i>read</i> minutatim. -<i>P.</i> 378, <i>l.</i> 15 and 36, <i>for</i> Procillatores, <i>read</i> Procillator.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="c">DESCRIPTION OF <a href="#pl_XXVI">PLATE No. XXVI.</a> <span class="smcap">A</span>, <span class="smcap">Page 365</span>.</p> - -<p>No. 1. Terra-Cotta Drinking-Vase, in the shape of a Bird.</p> - -<p>No. 2. Drinking-Vase in the shape of a Tea-pot.</p> - -<p>No. 3. Drinking-Cup, with Jupiter’s Head. -<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_471" id="page_471"></a>{471}</span></p> -</div> - -<hr class="full" /> - -<p class="c"> -WORKS BY A. SOYER.<br /> -<br /> -<i>Lately Published, the Eighth Edition, Handsomely Bound, Price 15s.</i>,<br /> -<br /> -THE<br /> -<br /> -<span class="eng">Gastronomic Regenerator:</span><br /> -<br /> -A<br /> -<br /> -<big>SIMPLIFIED AND ENTIRELY NEW</big><br /> -<br /> -SYSTEM OF COOKERY,<br /> -<br /> -WITH NEARLY<br /> -<br /> -TWO THOUSAND PRACTICAL RECIPES,<br /> -<br /> -SUITED TO THE INCOME OF ALL CLASSES.<br /> -<br /> -ILLUSTRATED WITH<br /> -<br /> -NUMEROUS ENGRAVINGS,<br /> -<br /> -AND CORRECT AND MINUTE PLANS HOW KITCHENS OF EVERY SIZE, FROM THE<br /> -KITCHEN OF A ROYAL PALACE TO THAT OF THE HUMBLE COTTAGE,<br /> -ARE TO BE CONSTRUCTED AND FURNISHED.<br /> -<br /> -<br /> -BY A. SOYER.<br /> -<br /> -<br /> -LONDON:<br /> -SIMPKIN, MARSHALL, & CO., STATIONERS’ HALL COURT:<br /> -AND SOLD BY<br /> -JOHN OLLIVIER, PALL-MALL.<br /> -1853.<br /> -<br /> -<i>For Criticisms see the Public Press in 1846.</i><br /> -</p> - -<hr class="full" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_472" id="page_472"></a>{472}</span></p> - -<p class="cb"><span class="eng">The Gastronomic Regenerator</span></p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>TRANSLATION FROM THE FRENCH OF A CULINARY DIALOGUE BETWEEN <span class="smcap">Lord M.</span> -H. AND A. SOYER.—<i>From the “Gastronomic Regenerator,” p. 611.</i></p></div> - -<p>S.—You are perfectly right, my Lord, the title of “Gourmet” belongs -only to him who eats with art, science, and care, and even with great -care.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Lord M.</span>—The “Gourmand” is never entitled to the name of “Gourmet;” the -one eats without tasting, whilst the other tastes in eating.</p> - -<p>S.—The proud and haughty man, my Lord, orders his dinner from -necessity; the man of the world—the profound epicure—orders his with -delight.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Lord R.</span>—It is quite certain that too much attention cannot be given to -the proper execution of, and the intelligence displayed in, the order of -a dinner. The dinner—being of each day, each season, each century—is -not only an hereditary fashion, but also the soul of sociability; read -history, and you will perceive that, in all times, amongst all people, -the good which has been done—and sometimes the evil—was always -preceded or followed by a banquet.</p> - -<p>S.—Nothing is more true, my Lord. Of all the pleasures which are -bestowed upon us in this world, that of the table is the only one which, -when the reins of the car of life become slack, parts from us with -regret, and often, as a faithful friend, leaves us but at the brink of -the tomb; whilst all other pleasures disappear gradually, like the -fading of a beautiful autumn, and cover our heads with the hoary locks -of winter.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Lord M.</span>—It is positive that the gift of degustation belongs to all ages -of life,—a centenarian whom I knew well retained this pleasure until -his last hour.</p> - -<p>S.—Our degustative senses require continual study, and unceasingly -claim a constant change.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Lord M.</span>—The greatest wit lacks eloquence, if he neglect too much the -nature of his repast.</p> - -<p>S.—Which proves, my Lord, that our most agreeable sensations depend, -not solely on nature, but on the care we take of ourselves.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Lord M.</span>—Yes, the more sensitive the soul, the greater the power of -degustation. The degustative sensations operate with as great activity -on the palate as the charm of melody acts on the ear; for example, man -in a state of madness feels the want of eating, but the enchanting -pleasure of degustation is as much denied to him as that of reason.</p> - -<p>S.—Your argument on this point is extremely just, my Lord; and are you -not of my opinion, that nothing disposes the human heart to amicable -feelings more than a dinner well conceived and artistically prepared?</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Lord M.</span>—It is that which has always made me say that a good cook is as -useful as a good tutor.</p> - -<p>S.—I have always perceived, my Lord, that the finest palate is the most -difficult to please, but also the most just in praise.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Lord M.</span>—The choice of wines is of great importance in the progress of a -dinner: a fine wine, light and generous, protects the cook and becomes -the benefactor of the guest.</p> - -<p>S.—Permit me also to observe, my Lord, that a gastronomic <i>réunion</i>, -without the <i>beau sexe</i> is to me a flower-bed without flowers, an ocean -without waves, a fleet without sails.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Lord M.</span>—Certainly, such <i>réunions</i> are the cradles of good manners and -sociability, even as intemperance is the tomb of morality.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_473" id="page_473"></a>{473}</span></p> - -<hr class="full" /> - -<p class="c"> -Just Published, the Thirtieth Thousand, Price 7s. 6d.,<br /> -<br /> -THE<br /> -<br /> -<span class="eng">Modern Housewife, or Menagere,</span><br /> -<br /> -COMPRISING<br /> -<br /> -Nearly One Thousand Recipes for the Economic and Judicious Preparation<br /> -of Every Meal of the Day,<br /> -<br /> -AND THOSE FOR<br /> -<br /> -THE NURSERY AND SICK-ROOM,<br /> -<br /> -WITH MINUTE DIRECTIONS FOR FAMILY MANAGEMENT IN ALL ITS BRANCHES.<br /> -<br /> -BY A. SOYER,<br /> -AUTHOR OF “THE GASTRONOMIC REGENERATOR,”<br /> -<br /> -<span class="eng">Illustrated with Numerous Engravings.</span><br /> -<br /> -<i>For Criticisms, see the Public Press in 1849.</i><br /> -<br /> -LONDON:<br /> -SIMPKIN, MARSHALL, AND CO., STATIONERS’ HALL COURT,<br /> -<br /> -1853.<br /> -</p> - -<p class="c">COPY OF A LETTER RECENTLY RECEIVED BY THE AUTHOR FROM DR. ERASMUS -WILSON, AUTHOR OF “HEALTHY SKIN, A POPULAR TREATISE ON THE SKIN AND -HAIR.”</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">17, Henrietta Street, Cavendish Square</span>,<br /> -<i>July 18th, 1853</i>.<br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Sir</span>,</p> - -<p>May I beg your acceptance of the accompanying small volume, for the -part illustration of which I am indebted to your admirable -“Housewife.” Your nursery dinner is one of the most valuable pages -I have ever read on the subject of Diet; and it is calculated to -confer an everlasting benefit on society.</p> - -<p class="r"> -I am, Sir,<br /> - -Your faithful servant,<br /> - -ERASMUS WILSON.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">A. Soyer, Esq.</span></p></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_474" id="page_474"></a>{474}</span></p> - -<hr class="full" /> - -<p class="cb">Extract from “Healthy Skin, a Popular Treatise on the Skin and Hair.”<br /> -By Erasmus Wilson, F.R.S.</p> - -<p>There is another branch of dietetics that calls for an observation from -me, I mean the diet of children. Children are growing animals; nutrition -in them is active, and calls for good and plentiful material in the -shape of nourishment. As far as period is concerned, the same law that -applies to adults is equally suited to them, three meals a day, an -interval of four hours between each. I speak of children out of arms, -not of infants. The substance of their meals cannot be too nutritive, or -too much varied.</p> - -<p>That the diet of children cannot be too varied or extensive is a -doctrine I have long held; and I was recently much charmed in finding -the subject treated with such admirable sense and judgment by a high -authority in the science of living—Soyer. His letter entitled “The -Nursery Dinner,” in the “Modern Housewife,” I cannot too strongly -commend to the perusal and attention of my readers, and to the study of -those on whom the proper rearing of children in any way rests. Speaking -of the diet of children for the day, this author writes:—“Bread and -milk for breakfast at eight; the dinner at one, which was composed as -follows throughout the week,—roast mutton and apple pudding, roast beef -and currant pudding, baked apples; boiled mutton with turnips, after -which rice or vermicelli pudding; occasionally a little salt beef, with -suet dumplings, plain and with currants in them, or pease pudding; or if -unwell, a little veal or chicken broth, or beef-tea.”</p> - -<p>This scheme of diet is intended for the children of persons in very -moderate circumstances; but for those who can afford it he prescribes, -as the dinner of one day, roast mutton: “then the next day I would give -them a small piece of mutton plain boiled, with turnips, and apple tart, -or a few slices of roast beef, or a small piece roasted on purpose, -after which a very plain currant pudding; or, occasionally, a little -pickled pork, with pease pudding, or roast pork, with baked apples, and -now and then a little salt beef, but very well boiled, with suet -dumplings, and occasionally, for change, either bread, vermicelli, or -tapioca puddings; in case of illness, and with the approbation of the -doctor, veal, mutton, or chicken-broth, sago, gruel, panada, &c. Many -people may perhaps imagine that there is too much variety of food for -children, but it is quite the contrary, for change of food is to the -stomach what change of air is to the general health; and of course, with -children, these changes must be effected with judgment.”</p> - -<p>Soyer is perfectly right with regard to the question of variety of food -for children; and the intention is so rational, that it is difficult to -conceive how a difference of opinion can exist with regard to its truth; -and yet I have heard parents make a boast that their children were fed -exclusively upon mutton, as though it were their intention to render the -stomach incapable of supporting and digesting any other kind of -food,—in which they generally succeed.</p> - -<p>Sameness of food, improper food, defective ventilation, and insufficient -exercise, are the causes of most of the diseases of children; and -especially of cutaneous complaints. This is the secret of the ring-worms -and scald-heads of public seminaries. In some of these institutions, as -I have heard, there is a ceremony in which the children take a public -meal in the presence of the governors and their friends. On these -occasions, the platters eclipse in whiteness the envious snow; a -suppressed burst of delight is heard from the spectators; the morsel of -cheese, cut with mathematical precision, would not vary a grain in the -thousand platters; the bread—what ingenuity!—each with his neighbour a -very twin. And how many days in the year do the children enjoy this -fattening collation?—365. For three hundred and sixty-five days, for a -thousand children, is this “<i>toujours perdrix</i>” feast the very same; and -yet there are people in the world who wonder that diseases should break -out, that skin affections should be rife, that consumptions should -prevail. Engraft a bud of Soyer on such an institution, and health and -happiness, learning, ability, and talent will take the place of disease, -melancholy, stupidity, and common-place intellect. What, now, in this -intelligent country, if there were a college of cookery, with Soyer for -its head?<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_475" id="page_475"></a>{475}</span></p> - -<hr class="full" /> - -<p class="c"> -<i>Now in progress</i>,<br /> -<br /> -<span class="eng"><big>Soyer’s Plain Cookery for the People,</big></span><br /> -<br /> -CONTAINING NUMEROUS RECIPES,<br /> -<br /> -Adapted for the Cottage of the Labourer, the Home of the Artisan, and<br /> -the Chamber of the Invalid.<br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_476" id="page_476"></a>{476}</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<p class="c"><big>NOTE BY THE AUTHOR.</big></p> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">In</span> the year 1846 I published a work on Cookery, entitled “The -Gastronomic Regenerator,” which was very successful. At page 650 I -observed that if any author were to write a work on the History of Food -and Cookery, it would not only be very interesting, but also an -extremely useful production. No one, however, having entertained my -suggestion, I determined to undertake the task, and, after several years -of deep study and perseverance, have completed this voluminous work.</p> - -<p>In the “Modern Housewife,” which I published in 1849, treating of sauces -prepared by the ancients, I said, that “In all ages and countries -removed from barbarism, where fish has formed an article of diet, sauces -of various kinds have been an accompaniment. With the Romans, in the -time of Lucullus, great care was observed in their preparation; the most -celebrated of those which they used were the <i>Garum</i> and the <i>Muria</i>.</p> - -<p>“The Garum was a sauce which the Romans used in nearly all their dishes; -the preference was given to that which came from Antipolis and from -Dalmatia. Horace praises that made at Byzantium, being the most esteemed -and the most expensive: its composition is unknown.”<a name="anc_i" id="anc_i"></a><a href="#footnote_i"><span class="label">[I]</span></a> The epicures of -the present day should offer a premium for that which, in their opinion, -may bear the greatest resemblance to this ancient relish. It is a -subject well worthy the attention of the professors of our universities; -perhaps some leaf yet undiscovered, that may have escaped the -conflagration of Alexandria, might throw some light upon so interesting -a subject.</p> - -<p class="r"> -A. SOYER.<br /> -</p> - -<p><i>42 Trinity Square, Tower Hill.</i></p> - -<p class="c"> -Vizetelly and Company, Printers and Engravers, 155 Fleet Street, London.<br /> -</p> - -<hr class="full" /> - - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Pantropheon or, History of Food, -its Preparation, from the Earliest A, by Alexis Soyer - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE PANTROPHEON *** - -***** This file should be named 51259-h.htm or 51259-h.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/5/1/2/5/51259/ - -Produced by Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images available at The Internet Archive) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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