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diff --git a/old/51173-0.txt b/old/51173-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 3428369..0000000 --- a/old/51173-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,26235 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook, The Stately Homes of England, by Llewellynn -Frederick William Jewitt and S. C. (Samuel Carter) Hall - - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - - - - -Title: The Stately Homes of England - - -Author: Llewellynn Frederick William Jewitt and S. C. (Samuel Carter) Hall - - - -Release Date: February 10, 2016 [eBook #51173] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - - -***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE STATELY HOMES OF ENGLAND*** - - -E-text prepared by Giovanni Fini and the Online Distributed Proofreading -Team (http://www.pgdp.net) from page images generously made available by -Internet Archive (https://archive.org) - - - -Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this - file which includes the original 380 illustrations. - See 51173-h.htm or 51173-h.zip: - (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/51173/51173-h/51173-h.htm) - or - (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/51173/51173-h.zip) - - - Images of the original pages are available through - Internet Archive. See - https://archive.org/details/statelyhomesofen00jewiiala - - -Transcriber's note: - - Text enclosed by underscores is in italics (_italics_). - - A carat character is used to denote superscription. A - single character following the carat is superscripted - (example: Conq^r). Multiple superscripted characters are - enclosed by curly brackets (example: Esq^{re}). - - - - - -THE STATELY HOMES OF ENGLAND - -by - -LLEWELLYNN JEWITT, F.S.A., ETC., ETC. - -and - -S. C. HALL, F.S.A. - -Complete in Two Series. - -Illustrated with Three Hundred and Eighty Engravings on Wood - - - - - - - -New York -A. W. Lovering, Importer. - - - - -INTRODUCTION. - - -ENGLAND is rich—immeasurably richer than any other country under the -sun—in its “Homes;” and these homes, whether of the sovereign or of -the high nobility, of the country squire or the merchant-prince, of the -artisan or the labourer, whether, in fact, they are palace or cottage, -or of any intermediate grade, have a character possessed by none other. -England, whose - - “Home! sweet home!” - -has become almost a national anthem—so closely is its sentiment -entwined around the hearts of the people of every class—is, indeed, -emphatically a Kingdom of Homes; and these, and their associations and -surroundings, and the love which is felt for them, are its main source -of true greatness. An Englishman feels, wherever he may be, that - - “Home _is_ home, however lowly;” - -and that, despite the attractions of other countries and the glare and -brilliancy of foreign courts and foreign phases of society, after all - - “There’s no place like home” - -in his own old fatherland. - -Beautifully has the gifted poet, Mrs. Hemans, sung of English “Homes,” -and charmingly has she said— - - “The Stately Homes of England, - How beautiful they stand - Amidst their tall ancestral trees - O’er all the pleasant land!” - -and thus given to us a title for our present work. Of these “Stately -Homes” of our “pleasant land” we have chosen some few for illustration, -not for their stateliness alone, but because the true nobility of -their owners allows their beauties, their splendour, their picturesque -surroundings, and their treasures of art to be seen and enjoyed by all. - -Whether “stately” in their proportions or in their style of -architecture, in their internal decorations or their outward -surroundings, in the halo of historical associations which encircle -them, or in the families which have made their greatness, and whose -high and noble characters have given them an enduring interest, these -“Homes” are indeed a fitting and pleasant subject for pen and pencil. -The task of their illustration has been a peculiarly grateful one to -us, and we have accomplished it with loving hands, and with a sincere -desire to make our work acceptable to a large number of readers. - -In the first instance, our notices of these “Stately Homes” appeared in -the pages of the _Art-Journal_, for which, indeed, they were specially -prepared, with the ultimate intention, now carried out, of issuing them -in a collected form. They have, however, now been rearranged, and have -received considerable, and in many instances very important, additions. -The present volume may be looked upon as the first of a short series -of volumes devoted to this pleasant and fascinating subject; others -of a similar character, embracing many equally beautiful, equally -interesting, and equally “stately” Homes will follow. - - LLEWELLYNN JEWITT. - - WINSTER HALL, DERBYSHIRE. - - - - -CONTENTS OF FIRST SERIES. - - - PAGE - - I.—ALTON TOWERS, STAFFORDSHIRE 1 - - II.—COBHAM HALL, KENT 37 - - III.—MOUNT EDGCUMBE, DEVONSHIRE 54 - - IV.—COTHELE, CORNWALL 70 - - V.—ALNWICK CASTLE, NORTHUMBERLAND 78 - - VI.—HARDWICK HALL, DERBYSHIRE 116 - - VII.—ARUNDEL CASTLE, SUSSEX 153 - - VIII.—PENSHURST, KENT 172 - - IX.—WARWICK CASTLE, WARWICKSHIRE 192 - - X.—HADDON HALL, DERBYSHIRE 221 - - XI.—HATFIELD HOUSE, HERTFORDSHIRE 294 - - XII.—CASSIOBURY, HERTFORDSHIRE 308 - - XIII.—CHATSWORTH, DERBYSHIRE 322 - - - - -LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. - -FIRST SERIES. - - - Page - I.—ALTON TOWERS. - - Lion Fountain 1 - - Ruins of Alton Castle 2 - - Alton Towers, from the Terrace 4 - - ” from the Lake 6 - - The Octagon 8 - - The Conservatories and Alcove 11 - - The Temple 19 - - The Conservatories 22 - - The Pagoda 24 - - Choragic Temple 27 - - View from the Lower Terrace 29 - - The Gothic Temple 31 - - Part of the Grounds 33 - - Hospital of St. John 34 - - - II.—COBHAM HALL. - - Initial Letter 37 - - Cobham Hall 38 - - The Three Sisters 43 - - The Lodge 45 - - Interior of the Church 48 - - The College Porch 50 - - The College 52 - - - III.—MOUNT EDGCUMBE. - - The Eddystone Lighthouse 54 - - Plymouth Breakwater 57 - - Mount Edgcumbe, from Stonehouse Pier 59 - - The Mansion 61 - - Lady Emma’s Cottage 64 - - The Gardens 65 - - The Ruin, the Sound, Drake’s Island, - &c. 68 - - The Salute Battery 69 - - - IV.—COTHELE. - - The Mansion 73 - - The Landing Place 75 - - - V.—ALNWICK CASTLE. - - Lighting the Beacon 78 - - Plan of Alnwick Castle 80 - - Alnwick Castle, from the River Aln 81 - - The Barbican 83 - - The Prudhoe Tower and Chapel 85 - - The Keep 87 - - Norman Gateway in the Keep 89 - - The Armourer’s Tower 91 - - Figure of Warrior on the Barbican 93 - - The Well in the Keep 94 - - The Constable’s Tower 95 - - Figure of Warrior on the Barbican 96 - - The East Garret 98 - - The Garden Gate, or Warder’s Tower 99 - - Bond Gate: “Hotspur’s Gate” 103 - - Alnwick Abbey 105 - - The Percy Cross 107 - - Hulne Abbey: The Percy Tower 109 - - ” The Church 111 - - The Brislee Tower 114 - - - VI.—HARDWICK HALL. - - Ancient Pargetting, and Arms of - Cavendish 116 - - Hardwick Hall, with the Entrance - Gateway 118 - - The West Front 122 - - The Great Hall 125 - - The Grand Staircase 127 - - The Chapel 129 - - The Presence Chamber 131 - - Mary Queen of Scots’ Room 133 - - The Picture Gallery 135 - - Ancient Lock, and Arms of Hardwick 137 - - Hardwick Hall, from the Park 139 - - The Old Hall at Hardwick 142 - - Interior of the Old Hall 144 - - Fac-simile of the Countess of Shrewsbury’s - Signature 145 - - Hault Hucknall Church 146 - - The Grave of Hobbes of Malmesbury - in Hault Hucknall Church 148 - - - VII.—ARUNDEL CASTLE. - - Horned Owls in the Keep 153 - - The Quadrangle 156 - - Entrance Gate, from the Interior 158 - - The Keep 160 - - The Library 163 - - The Church of the Holy Trinity 169 - - Tombs of Thomas Fitzalan and Lady - Beatrix in Arundel Church 171 - - - VIII.—PENSHURST. - - The Bell 172 - - Penshurst, from the President’s Court 174 - - North and West Fronts 177 - - View from the Garden 179 - - The Baron’s Court 182 - - The Village and Entrance to Churchyard 185 - - The Record Tower and the Church, - from the Garden 186 - - The Hall and Minstrels’ Gallery 188 - - - IX.—WARWICK CASTLE. - - The Swan of Avon 192 - - The Castle, from the Temple Field 194 - - The Keep, from the Inner Court 196 - - Earl of Warwick and Humphrey, Duke - of Gloucester 198 - - Earl of Warwick’s Combat before the - Emperor Sigismund and the Empress 199 - - Earl of Warwick Departing on a Pilgrimage - to the Holy Land 200 - - Badge of the Earl of Warwick 201 - - Cæsar’s Tower 202 - - The Castle, from the Bridge 203 - - The Castle, from the Island 205 - - Guy’s Tower 206 - - The Warder’s Horn 207 - - The Castle, from the Outer Court 209 - - The Inner Court, from the Keep 211 - - Guy’s and the Clock Tower, from the - Keep 212 - - The Castle, from the banks of the Avon 214 - - The Beauchamp Chapel; Monument of - the Founder 216 - - The Confessional 217 - - The Oratory 218 - - Warwick: The East Gate 219 - - - X.—HADDON HALL. - - Dorothy Vernon’s Door 221 - - Haddon, from the Meadows on the - Bakewell Road 223 - - The “Peacock” at Rowsley 225 - - Haddon, from the Rowsley Road 226 - - Arms of Vernon quartering Avenell 227 - - Arms of Lord Vernon 230 - - Haddon, from the Meadows 234 - - The Main Entrance 235 - - Inside of Gateway 236 - - Ground and Garden Plan of Haddon 237 - - The first Court-yard 239 - - Gateway under the Eagle Tower 240 - - The Chaplain’s Room 241 - - The Chapel 242 - - Norman Font in the Chapel 244 - - Wall-paintings in the Chapel 248 - - Steps to State Apartments 249 - - Roman Altar, Haddon Hall 250 - - The Banqueting-Hall: with the Minstrels’ - Gallery 251 - - Old Oak-table in the Banqueting-Hall 252 - - The Hand-lock in the Banqueting-Hall 252 - - Staircase to Minstrels’ Gallery 253 - - Oriel Window in the Dining-room 255 - - Ante-room to the Earl’s Bed-room 256 - - The Ball-room, or Long Gallery 257 - - Steps to the Ball-room 259 - - Dorothy Vernon’s Door: Interior 260 - - Dorothy Vernon’s Door: Exterior 261 - - The State Bed-room 263 - - The Archers’ Room, for Stringing - Bows, &c. 264 - - The Rack for Stringing the Bows 265 - - The Eagle, or Peverel Tower 266 - - Gallery across Small Yard 267 - - Room over the Entrance Gateway 268 - - The Terrace 270 - - The Hall from the Terrace 271 - - Arms of Family of Manners 272 - - Arms of the Duke of Rutland 278 - - The Foot-Bridge 279 - - Ring found at Haddon Hall 280 - - Washing-Tally found at Haddon Hall 281 - - Bakewell Church 283 - - Monument of Sir John Manners and - his Wife, Dorothy Vernon 286 - - Ancient Cross, Bakewell Churchyard 290 - - - XI.—HATFIELD HOUSE. - - Armed Knight 294 - - The Old Palace at Hatfield 295 - - The Front View 297 - - The Garden front of Hatfield House 299 - - The East View 302 - - The Gallery 304 - - The Hall 305 - - - XII.—CASSIOBURY. - - Crest of the Earl of Essex 308 - - Back View 310 - - From the Wood Walks 313 - - From the South-west 315 - - The Swiss Cottage 317 - - The Lodge 318 - - Monument in the Church at Watford 320 - - - XIII.—CHATSWORTH. - - Entrance to the Stables 322 - - The Old Hall as it formerly stood 325 - - Chatsworth from the River Derwent 333 - - The Entrance Gates 335 - - The Grand Entrance-Lodge at Baslow 340 - - Edensor Mill Lodge and Beeley Bridge 341 - - Entrance Gate 342 - - The Bridge over the River Derwent, in - the Park 343 - - The Great Hall and Staircase 344 - - Vista of the State Apartments 346 - - Grinling Gibbons’ Masterpiece 348 - - The Old State Bed-room 349 - - The State Drawing-room 351 - - The State Dining room 352 - - The Drawing-room 355 - - The Hebe of Canova 356 - - The Library 357 - - Fireplace by Westmacott in the - Dining-room 359 - - The Sculpture Gallery 360 - - Mater Napoleonis 361 - - The Pavilion and Orangery, from the - East 363 - - Carving over one of the Doors of the - Chapel 365 - - Carving over one of the Doors of the - Chapel 366 - - Carvings in the Chapel 367 - - The Private or West Library 370 - - The Sculpture Gallery and Orangery 372 - - Bust of the late Duke of Devonshire 373 - - The French Garden 374 - - The Great Cascade 375 - - The Alcove 376 - - Waterworks—The Willow Tree 377 - - Part of the Rock-work 378 - - The Great Conservatory 379 - - Part of the Rock-work—The Rocky - Portal 380 - - The Emperor Fountain 381 - - The Garden on the West Front 382 - - West Front from the South 383 - - The Hunting Tower 384 - - Mary Queen of Scots’ Bower 385 - - The late Sir Joseph Paxton’s House 386 - - The Victoria Regia 388 - - Edensor Church and Village 389 - - Monumental Brass to John Beton 391 - - Cavendish Monument, Edensor Church 392 - - Tomb of the Sixth Duke of Devonshire 393 - - The Chatsworth Hotel, Edensor 395 - - - - -ALTON TOWERS. - - -[Illustration] - -WE commence this series with ALTON TOWERS, one of the most interesting -of the many Stately Homes of England that dignify and glorify the -Kingdom; deriving interest not alone from architectural grandeur and -the picturesque and beautiful scenery by which it is environed, but as -a perpetual reminder of a glorious past—its associations being closely -allied with the leading heroes and worthies of our country. - -The Laureate asks, apparently in a tone of reproach— - - “Why don’t these acred sirs - Throw up their parks some dozen times a year, - And let the people breathe?” - -The poet cannot be aware that a very large number of the “parks” of -the nobility and gentry of England are “thrown up” not a “dozen times” -but a hundred times in every year; and that, frequently, thousands of -“the people” breathe therein—as free to all the enjoyments they supply -as the owners themselves. Generally, also, on fixed days, the chief -rooms, such as are highly decorated or contain pictures—the STATE -APARTMENTS—are open also; and all that wealth has procured, as far as -the eye is concerned, is as much the property of the humblest artisan -as it is of the lord of the soil. - -And what a boon it is to the sons and daughters of toil—the -hard-handed men—with their wives and children—workers at the forge, -the wheel, and the loom,—who thus make holiday, obtain enjoyment, -and gain health, under the shadows of “tall ancestral trees” planted -centuries ago by men whose names are histories. - -[Illustration: _Ruins of Alton Castle._] - -Indeed a closed park, and a shut-up mansion, are, now, not the rule, -but the exception; the noble or wealthy seem eager to share their -acquisitions with the people; and continually, as at Alton Towers, -picturesque and comfortable “summer houses” have been erected for the -ease, shelter, and refreshment of all comers. Visitors of any rank or -grade are permitted to wander where they will, and it is gratifying -to add, that very rarely has any evil followed such license. At Alton -Towers, a few shillings usually pays the cost consequent upon an inroad -of four thousand modern “iconoclasts:” the grounds being frequently -visited by so many in one day. - -The good that hence arises is incalculable: it removes the barriers -that separate the rich from the poor, the peer from the peasant, the -magnate from the labourer; and contributes to propagate and confirm the -true patriotism that arises from holy love of country. - -Alton, Alveton, Elveton, or Aulton, was held by the Crown at the -time of taking the Domesday survey, but, it would appear, afterwards -reverted to its original holders; Rohesia, the only child of the last -of whom, brought Alton, by marriage, to Bertram de Verdon, who had been -previously married to Maude, daughter of Robert de Ferrars, first Earl -of Derby. Alveton thus became the _caput baroniæ_ of the Verdon family, -its members being Wooton, Stanton, Farley, Ramsor, Coton, Bradley, -Spon, Denston, Stramshall, and Whiston. - -From the Verdons, through the Furnivals and Neviles, Alton passed to -the Earls of Shrewsbury, as will be seen from the following notice -of the Verdon family. Godfreye Compte le Verdon, surnamed de Caplif, -had a son, Bertram de Verdon, who held Farnham Royal, Bucks, by grand -sergeantry, circa 1080. He had three sons, one of whom, Norman de -Verdon, Lord of Weobly, co. Hereford, married Lasceline, daughter -of Geoffrey de Clinton, and by her had, with other issue, Bertram -de Verdon, who was a Crusader, and founded Croxden, or Crokesden, -Abbey, near Alton, in the twenty-third year of Henry II., anno 1176. -He married twice: his first wife being Maude, daughter of Robert de -Ferrars, first Earl of Derby (who died without issue in 1139), and -his second being Rohesia, daughter and heiress of a former possessor -of Alton, through which marriage he became possessed of that manor, -castle, &c. He was Sheriff of the counties of Warwick and Leicester, -and, dying at Joppa, was buried at Acre. By his wife Rohesia (who died -in 1215) he had issue—William; Thomas, who married Eustachia, daughter -of Gilbert Bassett; Bertram; Robert; Walter, who was Constable of -Bruges Castle; and Nicholas, through whom the line is continued through -John de Verdon, who, marrying Marjorie, one of the co-heiresses of -Walter de Lacie, Lord Palatine of the county of Meath, had issue by -her—Sir Nicholas de Verdon of Ewyas-Lacie Castle; John de Verdon, Lord -of Weobly; Humphrey; Thomas; Agnes; and Theobald, who was Constable -of Ireland, 3rd Edward I., and was in 1306 summoned as Baron Verdon. -He died at Alton in 1309, and was buried at Croxden Abbey. His son, -Theobald de Verdon, by his first wife, Elizabeth, widow of John de -Burgh, Earl of Ulster, and daughter and one of the co-heiresses of -Gilbert de Clare, Earl of Gloucester, by “Joane de Acres,” had a -daughter, married to Lord Ferrars of Groby; and, by his second wife, -Maude, daughter of Edmund, first Baron Mortimer of Wigmore, had issue, -besides three sons who died during his lifetime, three daughters, who -became his co-heiresses. - -[Illustration: _Alton Towers, from the Terrace._] - -One of these, Margaret (who married three times), had Weobly Castle -for her portion; another, Elizabeth, married to Lord de Burghersh, -had Ewyas-Lacie Castle for her portion; and the other, Joan, had for -her portion Alton, with its castle and dependencies. This lady (Joan -de Verdon) married, firstly, William de Montague; and, secondly, -Thomas, second Lord Furnival, who, for marrying her without the king’s -licence, was fined in the sum of £200. She had by this marriage two -sons, Thomas and William, who were successively third and fourth Barons -Furnival, lords of Hallamshire. This William, Lord Furnival, married -Thomasin, daughter and heiress of Nicholas, second Baron Dagworth of -Dagworth, and had by her a sole daughter and heiress, Joan de Furnival, -who, marrying Thomas Neville of Hallamshire, brother to the Earl of -Westmoreland, conveyed to him the title and estates, he being summoned -in 1383 as fifth Baron Furnival. By her he had issue, two daughters -and co-heiresses, the eldest of whom, Maude, “Lady of Hallamshire,” -married, in 1408, John Talbot, afterwards first Earl of Shrewsbury -and sixth Baron Talbot of Goderich—“_Le Capitaine Anglais_.” This -nobleman, whose military career was one of the most brilliant recorded -in English history, was summoned as Baron Furnival of Sheffield in -1409; created Earl of Shrewsbury, 1442; and Earl of Waterford, &c., -1446. He was slain, aged eighty, at Chatillon, in 1453, and was buried -at Whitchurch. This Earl of Shrewsbury, who so conspicuously figures -in Shakespeare’s _Henry VI._, enjoyed, among his other titles, that -of “Lord Verdon of Alton”—a title which continued in the family, the -Alton estates having now for nearly five centuries uninterruptedly -belonged to them. - -The titles of this great Earl of Shrewsbury are thus set forth by -Shakespeare, when Sir William Lucy, seeking the Dauphin’s tent, to -learn what prisoners have been taken, and to “survey the bodies of the -dead,” demands— - - “Where is the great Alcides of the field, - Valiant Lord Talbot, Earl of Shrewsbury? - Created, for his rare success in arms, - Great Earl of Washford, Waterford, and Valence - Lord Talbot of Goodrig and Urchinfield, - Lord Strange, of Blackmere, _Lord Verdun of Alton_, - Lord Cromwell of Wingfield, Lord Furnival of Sheffield, - The thrice victorious Lord of Falconbridge; - Knight of the noble order of Saint George, - Worthy Saint Michael, and the Golden Fleece; - Great Mareshal to Henry the Sixth - Of all his wars within the realm of France.” - -To which, it will be remembered, La Pucelle contemptuously replies— - - “Here is a silly stately style indeed! - The Turk, that two-and-fifty kingdoms hath— - Writes not so tedious a style as this— - Him that thou magnifiest with all these titles, - Stinking and fly-blown, lies here at our feet.” - -From this John, Earl of Shrewsbury,—“the scourge of France,” “so much -feared abroad that with his name the mothers still their babes,”—the -manor and estates of Alton and elsewhere passed to his son, John, -second earl, who married Elizabeth Butler, daughter of James, Earl of -Ormond, and was succeeded by his son, John, third earl, who married -Catherine Stafford, daughter of Humphrey, Duke of Buckingham; and was -in like manner succeeded by his son, George, fourth earl, K.G., &c., -who was only five years of age at his father’s death. He was succeeded, -as fifth earl, by his son, Francis; who, dying in 1560, was succeeded -by his son, George, as sixth earl. - -[Illustration: _Alton Towers, from the Lake._] - -This nobleman married, first, Gertrude Manners, daughter of Thomas, -Earl of Rutland; and, second, Elizabeth (generally known as “Bess of -Hardwick,” for an account of whom, see the article on Hardwick Hall -in the present volume), daughter of John Hardwick, of Hardwick Hall, -Derbyshire, and successively widow, first, of Robert Barlow, of Barlow; -second, of Sir William Cavendish, of Chatsworth; and, third, of Sir -William St. Loe. She was the builder of Chatsworth and of Hardwick -Hall. To him was confided the care of Mary Queen of Scots. He was -succeeded by his son Gilbert, as seventh earl. This young nobleman -was married before he was fifteen to Mary, daughter of Sir William -Cavendish of Chatsworth. He left no surviving male issue, and was -succeeded by his brother, Edward, as eighth earl, who, having married -Jane, daughter of Cuthbert, Lord Ogle, died, without issue, being the -last of this descent, in 1617. The title then passed to a distant -branch of the family, in the person of George Talbot, of Grafton; -who, being descended from Sir Gilbert Talbot, third son of the second -earl, succeeded as ninth earl. From him the title descended in regular -lineal succession to Charles, twelfth earl, who was created by George -I. _Duke_ of Shrewsbury and _Marquis of Alton_, and a K.G. At his -death, the dukedom and marquisate expired, and from that time, until -1868, the earldom has never passed directly from a father to a son. -The thirteenth earl was a Jesuit priest, and he was succeeded by his -nephew as fourteenth earl. Charles, fifteenth earl, dying without -issue, in 1827, was succeeded by his nephew, John (son of John Joseph -Talbot, Esq.), who became sixteenth earl. That nobleman died in -1852, and was succeeded as seventeenth earl, by his cousin, Bertram -Arthur Talbot (nephew of Charles, fifteenth earl), who was the only -son of Lieut.-Colonel Charles Thomas Talbot. This young nobleman was -but twenty years of age when he succeeded to the title and estates, -which he enjoyed only four years, dying unmarried at Lisbon, on the -10th of August, 1856. Earl Bertram, who, like the last few earls his -predecessors, was a Roman Catholic, bequeathed the magnificent estates -of Alton Towers to the infant son of the Duke of Norfolk, Lord Edward -Howard, also a Roman Catholic; but Earl Talbot (who was opposed in his -claim by the Duke of Norfolk, acting for Lord Edward Howard; by the -Princess Doria Pamphili, of Rome, the only surviving child of Earl -John; and by Major Talbot, of Talbot, co. Wexford) claimed the peerage -and estates as rightful heir. After a long-protracted trial, Earl -Talbot’s claim was admitted by the House of Lords, in 1858; and after -another trial his lordship took formal possession of Alton Towers and -the other estates of the family, and thus became eighteenth Earl of -Shrewsbury, in addition to his title of third Earl of Talbot. - -His lordship (the Hon. Henry John Chetwynd Talbot, son of Earl Talbot) -was born in 1803. He served in the Royal Navy, and became an admiral -on the reserved list. He was also a Knight of the Order of St. Anne -of Russia, and of St. Louis of France, a Knight of the Bath, and a -Privy Councillor. In 1830, his lordship, then Mr. Talbot, represented -Thetford in Parliament; and in the following year was elected for -Armagh and for Dublin; and from 1837 until 1849, when he entered the -Upper House as Earl Talbot, he represented South Staffordshire. In 1852 -his lordship was made a Lord in Waiting to the Queen; in 1858 Captain -of the Corps of Gentlemen at Arms; and was also Hereditary Lord High -Steward of Ireland. - -[Illustration: _The Octagon._] - -He married in 1828 Lady Sarah Elizabeth Beresford, eldest daughter -of the second Marquis of Waterford, and by her had issue living four -sons, viz.—Charles John, present, nineteenth, Earl of Shrewsbury; -the Hon. Walter Cecil Talbot, who, in 1869, assumed, by Royal Sign -Manual, the surname of Carpenter in lieu of that of Talbot, on his -succeeding to the Yorkshire estates of the late Countess of Tyrconnell; -the Hon. Reginald Arthur James Talbot, M.P. for Stafford; and the -Hon. Alfred Talbot; and three daughters, viz.: Lady Constance Harriet -Mahunesa, married to the Marquis of Lothian; Lady Gertrude Frances; -and Lady Adelaide, married at her father’s death-bed, June 1st, 1868, -to the Earl Brownlow. The eighteenth Earl died in June, 1868, and -was succeeded by his son, Charles John, Viscount Ingestre, M.P., as -nineteenth earl. - -The present peer, the noble owner of princely Alton, of Ingestre, and -of other mansions, Charles John Talbot, nineteenth Earl of Shrewsbury, -fourth Earl of Talbot, of Hemsoll, in the county of Glamorgan, Earl of -Waterford, Viscount Ingestre, of Ingestre, in the county of Stafford, -and Baron Talbot, of Hemsoll, in the county of Glamorgan, Hereditary -Lord High Steward of Ireland, and Premier Earl in the English and Irish -peerages, was born in 1830, and was educated at Eton and at Merton -College, Oxford. In 1859 he became M.P. for North Staffordshire, and, -in 1868, for the borough of Stamford. In 1868 he succeeded his father -in the titles and estates, and entered the Upper House. He formerly -held a commission in the 1st Life Guards. His lordship married, in -1855, Anne Theresa, daughter of Commander Richard Howe Cockerell, R.N., -and has issue one son, Charles Henry John, Viscount Ingestre, born in -1860; and three daughters, the Hon. Theresa Susey Helen Talbot, born in -1856; the Hon. Gwendoline Theresa Talbot, born in 1858; and the Hon. -Muriel Frances Louisa Talbot, born in 1859. - -The Earl of Shrewsbury is patron of thirteen livings, eight of -which are in Staffordshire, two in Worcestershire, and one each in -Oxfordshire, Berkshire, and Shropshire. - -The arms of the earl are, _gules_, a lion rampant within a bordure -engrailed, _or_. Crest, on a chapeau, _gules_, turned up, _ermine_, a -lion statant, with the tail extended, _or_. Supporters, two talbots, -_argent_. - -We have thus given a history of this illustrious family from its -founder to the present day, and proceed to describe its principal seat -in Staffordshire—the beautiful and “stately home” of Alton Towers. - -The castle of the De Verdons, which was dismantled by the army of the -Parliament, stood on the commanding and truly picturesque eminence now -occupied by the unfinished Roman Catholic Hospital of St. John and -other conventual buildings, &c. A remarkably interesting view, showing -the commanding site of the castle, and the valley of Churnet, with -Alton Church, &c., is fortunately preserved in an original painting -from which our first engraving is made. - -The site of Alton Towers was originally occupied by a plain house, -the dwelling of a steward of the estate. A hundred and forty years -ago it was known as “Alveton (or Alton) Lodge,” and was evidently a -comfortable homestead, with farm buildings adjoining. - -When Charles, fifteenth Earl of Shrewsbury, succeeded to the titles -and estates of his family, in the beginning of the present century, -he made a tour of his estates, and on visiting Alton was so much -pleased with the natural beauties of the place, and its surrounding -neighbourhood, that he determined upon improving the house and laying -out the grounds, so as to make it his summer residence.[1] With that -view he added considerably to the steward’s dwelling, and having, with -the aid of architects and landscape gardeners, converted that which -was almost wilderness into a place of beauty, he called it “Alton -Abbey,”—a name to which it had no right or even pretension. To his -taste, the conservatories, the temples, the pagoda, the stone circle, -the cascades, the fountains, the terraces, and most of the attractive -features of the grounds, owe their origin, as do many of the rooms of -the present mansion. A pleasant memory of this excellent nobleman is -preserved at the entrance to the gardens, where, in a noble cenotaph, -is a marble bust, with the literally true inscription— - - “He made the desert smile.” - -After his death, in 1827, his successor, Earl John, continued the -works at Alton, and, by the noble additions he made to the mansion, -rendered it what it now is—one of the most picturesque of English -seats. In 1832 his lordship consulted Pugin as to some of the -alterations and additions, and this resulted in his designing some new -rooms, and decorating and altering the interior of others. Mr. Fradgley -and other architects had also previously been employed, and to their -skill a great part of the beauty of Alton Towers is attributable. The -parts executed by Pugin are the balustrade at the great entrance, -the parapet round the south side, the Doria apartments over Lady -Shrewsbury’s rooms, on the south-east side of the house, called -sometimes the “plate-glass drawing-room,” the apartments over the -west end of the great gallery, and the conservatory, &c. The fittings -and decorations of many of the other rooms and galleries, including -the unfinished dining-hall and the chapel, are also his. The entrance -lodges near the Alton Station are likewise from Pugin’s designs. - -[Illustration: _The Conservatories and Alcove._] - -The principal, or state, entrance to the mansion is on the east side, -but the private foot entrance from the park is by the drawbridge, -while that from the gardens and grounds is by a path leading over the -entrance gateway or tower. To reach the state entrance the visitor -on leaving the park, passes a noble gateway in an embattled and -machicolated tower, with side turrets and embrasures, near to which -he will notice the sculptured arms of De Verdon, of Furnival, and -of Raby, and on the inner side of the tower, those of Talbot, with -the date, 1843. Passing between embattled walls, the entrance to the -right is a majestic tower, bearing sculptured over the doorway the -armorial bearings, crest, supporters, with mantling, &c., of the Earl -of Shrewsbury. The steps leading to the doorway are flanked on either -side by a life-size “talbot,” bearing the shield and the family arms, -while on the pedestals, &c., are the monogram of Earl John, and the -motto “Prest d’accomplir.” Passing through the doors the visitor enters -the ENTRANCE TOWER, a square apartment of extremely lofty proportions. -“The doors being closed after him, he will at once notice the most -striking feature of this hall to be, that the entrance-doors and the -pair of similar folding-doors facing them—each of which is some twenty -feet high, and of polished oak—are painted on their full size with the -arms, supporters, &c., of the Earl of Shrewsbury. This fine effect, -until the place was dismantled a few years since, was considerably -heightened by the assemblage of arms, and armour, and of stags’ -antlers, &c., with which the walls were decorated. In this apartment -the old blind Welsh harper, a retainer of the family, with his long -dress, covered with medals and silver badges, sat for years and played -his native strains on the ancient bardic instrument of his country. - -“From this apartment one of the immense pairs of heraldic doors opens -into ‘THE ARMOURY,’ a fine Gothic apartment of about 120 feet in -length, with oak roof, the arches of which spring from carved corbels, -while from the central bosses hang a series of pendant lanterns. -The ‘armoury’ is lit on its north side by a series of stained-glass -windows, the first of which bears, under a canopy, &c., the portrait -and armorial bearings of William the Conqueror; the next those of -‘Marescallus pater Gilberti Marescalli Regis Henrici Primi, temp. -Will^{m.} Conq^r.;’ the third, those of Donald, King of Scotland, -1093; the fourth, those of Raby; the fifth, those of De Verdun, the -founder of the castle of Alton (‘Verdun fund: Cast: de Alveton, -originalis familiæ de Verdun, temp. Will. Conq^r.’); and the sixth, of -Lacy—‘Summa soror et heres Hugonis de Lacy, fundatoris de Lanthony in -Wallia; Mater Gilberti de Lacy, temp. Will. Conq^r.’ In this apartment, -from which a doorway leads to the billiard and other rooms, hang a -number of funeral and other banners of the house of Talbot, and at one -end is the Earl’s banner as Lord High Seneschal or Lord High Steward of -Ireland—a blue banner bearing the golden harp of ‘Old Ireland’ which -was borne by the Earl of Shrewsbury at the funeral of King William IV. -In the palmy days of Alton this apartment was filled with one of the -most magnificent assemblages of arms and armour ever got together, -amongst which not the least noticeable feature was a life-size -equestrian figure of ‘the great Talbot’ in full armour, and bearing on -his head an antique coronet, in his hand a fac-simile of the famous -sword which he wielded so powerfully while living, bearing the words— - - ‘Ego sum Talboti pro vincere inimicos meos - -and on his shoulders his magnificent ‘Garter’ mantle, embroidered with -heraldic insignia. The horse was fully armed and caparisoned, the -trappings bearing the arms and insignia of its noble owner. The figure -was placed on a raised oak platform, richly carved; and on this, at -the horse’s feet, lay the fine war helmet of the grand old Earl. At -the farther or west end of the armoury, a pair of open screen-work -doors of large size, formed of spears and halberds, and surmounted -by a portcullis—the whole being designed by a former Countess of -Shrewsbury—opens into— - -“THE PICTURE-GALLERY.—This noble gallery, about 150 feet in length, -has a fine oak and glass ceiling, supported by a series of arches, -which spring from corbels formed of demi-talbots, holding in their -paws shields with the Talbot arms, while in each spandrel of the roof -are also the same arms. The room is lit with sumptuous chandeliers. -In this gallery was formerly a series of tables, containing articles -of _vertu_ and a large assemblage of interesting objects, while the -walls were literally covered with paintings of every school, including -the collection formed by Letitia Buonaparte, which was purchased in -Paris by Earl John. It is now entirely denuded of this treasure of art. -From the Picture-Gallery a pair of Gothic screen-work oak and glass -folding-doors, with side lights to correspond, opens into— - -“THE OCTAGON (sometimes called the ‘Saloon,’ or ‘Sculpture-Gallery’), -an octagonal room designed to some extent from the splendid Chapter -House at Wells Cathedral. Like this it has a central pier, or clustered -column, of sixteen shafts, from the foliated capital of which the ribs -of the vaulted roof radiate. Other radiating ribs spring from shafts -at the angles of the room; and where the radiations meet and cross -are sculptured bosses, while a series of geometric cuspings fills in -between the intersecting ribs at the points of the arches. Around the -base of the central column is an octagonal seat, and stone benches -are placed in some parts of the sides. It is lit with pendant Gothic -lanterns. - -“The ‘Octagon’ opens on its east side into the ‘Picture-Gallery;’ -on its west into the ‘Talbot Gallery;’ and on its north into the -‘Conservatory.’ On its south is a fine large window of Perpendicular -tracery filled with stained glass, while on the other four sides are -small windows, diapered in diagonal lines, with the motto, ‘Prest -d’Accomplir,’ alternating with monograms and heraldic devices of -the family. Over the Picture-Gallery doorway the following curious -verses—a kind of paraphrase of the family motto, ‘Prest d’Accomplir,’ -which is everywhere inscribed—are painted in old English characters on -an illuminated scroll:— - - “‘The redie minde regardeth never toyle, - But still is Prest t’accomplish heartes intent; - Abrode, at home, in every coste or soyle. - The dede is done, that inwardly is meante; - Which makes me saye to every vertuous dede, - I am still Prest t’accomplish what’s decreede. - - “‘But byd to goe I redie am to roune, - But byd to roune I redie am to ride; - To goe, roune, ride, or what else to bee done. - Speke but the word, and sone it shall be tryde; - Tout prest je suis pour accomplix la chose, - Par tout labeur qui vous peut faire repose. - - “‘Prest to accomplish what you shall commande, - Prest to accomplish what you shall desyre, - Prest to accomplish your desires demande, - Prest to accomplish heaven for happy hire; - Thus do I ende, and at your will I reste, - As you shall please, in every action Prest.’ - -“Above this, and other parts of the walls, are the emblazoned arms of -Talbot, Furnivall, De Verdun, Lacy, Raby, and the other alliances of -the family; while in the large stained-glass window on the south side -are splendid full-length figures of six archbishops and bishops of the -Talbot family, with their arms and those of the sees over which they -presided. Beneath this window are two beautiful models, full size, of -ancient tombs of the great Talbots of former days. One of these is the -famous tomb, from Whitchurch, of John, first Earl of Shrewsbury, who -was killed in battle July 7, 1453. It bears a full-length effigy of the -Earl in his Garter robes and armour, and bears on its sides and ends a -number of emblazoned shields of the Talbot alliances, and the following -inscription:— - - “‘_Orate pro anima prœnobilis domini, domini Johanis Talbot, Comitis - Salopiæ, domini Furnival, domini Verdun, domini Strange de Blackmere, - et Mareschalli Franciæ; qui obiit, in bello apud Burdeux_ VII _Julii_ - MCCCCLIII.’ - -“It is related that when this noble warrior was slain, his herald -passing over the battle-field to seek the body, at length found it -bleeding and lifeless, when he kissed it, and broke out into these -passionate and dutiful expressions:—‘Alas! it is you: I pray God -pardon all your misdoings. I have been your officer of arms forty years -or more. It is time I should surrender it to you.’ And while the tears -trickled plentifully down his cheek, he disrobed himself of his coat of -arms and flung it over his master’s body. This is the knight of whom we -read— - - “‘Which Sir John Talbote, first Lord Fournivall, - Was most worthie warrior we read of all. - For by his knigh thode and his chivalrye - A Knight of the Garter first he was made; - And of King Henry, first Erle Scrovesberye. - To which Sir John, his sone succession hade, - And his noble successors now therto sade; - God give them goode speede in their progresse, - And Heaven at their ende, both more or lesse. - The live to report of this foresaid lorde - How manly hee was, and full chivalrose: - What deedes that he did I cannot by worde - Make rehersal, by meter ne prose; - How manly, how true, and how famose, - In Ireland, France, Normandy, Lyon, and Gascone - His pere so long renyng I rede of none. - - * * * * * - - Which while he reigned was most knight - That was in the realme here many yere, - Most dughty of hand and feresest in fight, - Most drede of all other with French men of werr - In Ireland, France, Gyon; whose soule God absolve - And bring to that Llyss that will not dissolve.’ - -“From the north side of the ‘Octagon’ a flight of stone steps leads -up to a glass doorway, which opens into a glass vestibule, forming a -part of the ‘Conservatory,’ of which I shall speak a little later on. -This conservatory leads into the ‘Dining-room’ and the suite on the -north side, and the view along it from the Octagon is charming in the -extreme, not the least striking and sweetly appropriate matter being -the motto painted above the flowers and around the cornice of the -vestibule:— - - “‘The speech of flowers exceeds all flowers of speech.’ - -“On the west side a similar flight of steps and doorway open into - -“THE TALBOT GALLERY, a magnificent apartment of about the same size -and proportions as the ‘Picture-Gallery.’ It has a fine Gothic ceiling -of oak and glass, supported, like that of the Picture-Gallery, on -arches springing from demi-talbots bearing shields. The walls, to about -two-thirds of their height, are covered with a rich arabesque paper of -excellent design, while the upper part is painted throughout its entire -surface in diagonal lines with the Talbot motto ‘Prest d’Accomplir,’ -alternating with the initials T. (Talbot) and S. (Shrewsbury). On this -diapered groundwork are painted, at regular intervals, shields of arms, -fully blazoned, with tablets beneath them containing the names of their -illustrious bearers. The series of arms on the south side shows the -descent of the Earl of Shrewsbury from the time of the Conquest, while -those on the north side exhibit the armorial bearings of the alliances -formed by the females of the House of Talbot. As these series are of -great importance, and have only heretofore been given in Mr. Jewitt’s -work upon Alton Towers, from which the whole of the description of the -interior here given is copied, I have carefully noted them for the -reader’s information. On the south side, commencing at the end next the -‘Octagon,’ the arms are as follows, the arms being all impaled:— - - “William the Conqueror and Matilda of Flanders. - King Henry I. and Matilda of Scotland. - Geoffrey Plantagenet, Earl of Anjou, and Matilda, daughter of King - Henry I. - King Henry II. and Eleanor of Aquitaine. - King John and Isabella d’Angoulême. - King Henry III. and Eleanor of Provence. - King Edward I. and Eleanor of Castile. - Humphrey Bohun, Earl of Hereford, and Elizabeth, daughter of King - Edward I. - James Butler, Earl of Ormond, and Eleanor, daughter of the Earl of - Hereford. - James, Earl of Ormond, and Elizabeth, daughter of the Earl of Kildare. - James, Earl of Ormond, and Anne, daughter of Baron Welles. - James, Earl of Ormond, and Joane, daughter of William de Beauchamp. - John Talbot, Earl of Shrewsbury, and Elizabeth, daughter of the Earl - of Ormond. - Sir Gilbert Talbot, Knight of the Garter, and Audrey Cotton. - Sir John Talbot and Ada Troutbecke. - Sir John Talbot and Frances Clifford. - John Talbot and Catherine Petre. - John Talbot and Eleanor Baskerville. - John, Earl of Shrewsbury, and Mary Fortescue. - Gilbert Talbot and June Flatsbury. - George, Earl of Shrewsbury, and Mary Fitzwilliam. - Charles Talbot and Mary Mostyn. - John Joseph Talbot and Mary Clifton. - ‘John, now Earl of Shrewsbury, Waterford, and Wexford,’ and Maria - Talbot. - Richard, Baron Talbot, ancestor of the Earl of Shrewsbury, and - Elizabeth Cummin. - John, father of Elizabeth Cummin, and Joane de Valence. - William de Valletort, Earl of Pembroke, and Joane Mountchesney. - Hugh, Count de la Marche, and Isabel d’Angoulême. - Aymer, Count d’Angoulême, and Alice de Courteney. - Peter, fils de France, and the Heiress of Courteney. - Louis VI., King of Fiance, father of Peter de Courteney. - Richard Talbot and Eva, daughter of Gerrard de Gournay. - Hugh Talbot and Beatrix, daughter of William de Mandeville. - Richard Talbot and Maud, daughter of Stephen Bulmer. - Richard Talbot and Aliva, daughter of Alan Bassett. - William Talbot and Gwendiline, daughter of Rhys ap Griffith, Prince of - Wales. - Richard Baron Talbot and Elizabeth Cummin. - John Cummin, grandfather of Elizabeth, and Margery Baliol. - John Baliol and Dorvegillia, Lady of Galloway. - David the First, King of Scotland, and the Lady of Galloway. - -“On the north side, beginning at the west end, the arms of the female -alliances are as on the other side—impaled—and are as follows:— - - “Joane Talbot, married to John Carew. - Joane Talbot to John de Dartmouth. - Elizabeth Talbot to Waren Archdekene. - Katherine Talbot to Sir Roger Chandos. - Phillippa Talbot to Sir Matthew Gournay. - Jane Talbot to Sir Nicholas Poynings. - Anne Talbot to Hugh, Earl of Devon. - Mary Talbot to Sir Thomas Greene. - Elizabeth Talbot to Sir Thomas Barre. - Jane Talbot to Hugh de Cokesay. - Elizabeth Talbot to Thomas Gray, Viscount Lisle. - Margaret Talbot to Sir George Vere. - Anne Talbot to Sir Henry Vernon. - Margaret Talbot to Thomas Chaworth. - Eleanor Talbot to Thomas, Baron Sudeley. - Margaret Talbot to Henry, Earl of Cumberland. - Mary Talbot to Henry, Earl of Northumberland. - Elizabeth Talbot to Lord Dacre of Gilsland. - Anne Talbot to Peter Compton. - Anne Talbot to William, Earl of Pembroke. - Anne Talbot to John, Baron Bray. - Anne Talbot to Thomas, Lord Wharton. - Catherine Talbot to Edward, Earl of Pembroke. - Mary Talbot to Sir George Saville. - Grace Talbot to Henry Cavendish. - Mary Talbot to William, Earl of Pembroke. - Elizabeth Talbot to Henry, Earl of Kent. - Alatheia Talbot to Thomas, Earl of Arundel. - Gertrude Talbot to Robert, Earl of Kingston. - Mary Talbot to Thomas Holcroft. - Mary Talbot to Sir William Airmine. - Margaret Talbot to Robert Dewport. - Elizabeth Talbot to Sir John Littleton. - Mary Talbot to Thomas Astley. - Joane Talbot to Sir George Bowes. - Mary Talbot to Mervin, Earl of Castlehaven. - Barbara Talbot to James, Lord Aston. - Mary Talbot to Charles, Baron Dormer. - Mary Alathea Beatrix Talbot to Prince Filippo Doria Pamfili. - Gwendaline Catherine Talbot to Prince Marc Antonio Borghese. - -“On and over the doorway are the arms and quarterings of the Talbots, -and the sculptured stone chimney-pieces are of the most exquisite -character, having Talbots supporting enamelled banners of arms under -Gothic canopies, and shields on the cuspings. At the top also is a -shield, supported by two angels. The fire-place is open, and has -fire-dogs; and the tiles are decorated alternately with the letter S -for Shrewsbury, and I T conjoined, for John Talbot. - -“At the west end is a splendid stained-glass window, exhibiting the -names, armorial bearings, and dates of Earl John and nine of his -ancestors, who have been Knights of the Garter—the garter encircling -each of the shields. The names are Gilbert, Lord Talbot, 19 Henry VI.; -John, Earl of Shrewsbury, 1460; George, 4th Earl of Shrewsbury; George -Talbot; Francis, 5th Earl of Shrewsbury; Sir Gilbert Talbot, 1495; -George, 6th Earl of Shrewsbury; Gilbert, 7th Earl of Shrewsbury, 1592; -Charles, Earl of Shrewsbury, 1604; and John, Earl of Shrewsbury, 1840. - -“In the palmy days of Alton Towers, this room, the Talbot Gallery, -contained a splendid collection of choice paintings, a fine assemblage -of rare china, some exquisite sculpture, and a large number of articles -of _vertu_ of every imaginable class and character. From the north side -a small door opens into— - -“THE OAK CORRIDOR, a narrow passage leading in a straight line to the -North Library, and having doorways opening on its left into both of the -state-rooms. The first of these rooms, after passing the ‘waiting-room’ -or ‘ante-room,’ is— - -“THE STATE BOUDOIR, an octagonal apartment with a magnificent carved, -painted, and gilt Gothic ceiling. This, in former days, when it -contained some fine old cabinets, a service of regal Sèvres china, and -some exquisite portraits, and was filled with sumptuous furniture, was -one of the most charming rooms imaginable. Next to this is— - -“THE STATE BED-ROOM.—The ceiling is panelled, being divided by deep -ribs into squares, having the ground painted a pale blue; rich tracery -of oak and gold stretches toward the centre of each compartment, and -terminates with a gold leaf; the hollow mouldings of the ribs are -crimson, studded with gold; below is a deep cornice of vine-leaves and -fruit picked out green and gold; and the walls are hung with paper of -an azure ground, relieved with crimson and gold. - -[Illustration: _The Temple._] - -“The State Bed, which is about 18 feet in height and 9 feet in width, -is a sumptuous piece of massive Gothic furniture, all gilt in every -part and massively carved. Around the canopy hangs the most costly -of bullion fringe, and the hangings, as well as those of the windows -and other furniture, are of the richest possible golden Indian silk. -This room formerly contained a toilet service of gold, and the whole -of the furniture and decorations were of the grandest character. The -chimney-piece is of white marble, exquisitely carved, and bearing -on the spandrels the Talbot arms—a lion rampant within a bordure -engrailed. The furniture is all gilt like the bed, with which also the -drapery is _en suite_. The windows, as do also those of the boudoir, -look out upon a perfect sea of magnificent rhododendrons. One door -opens into the Oak Corridor, and another into— - -“THE DINING-ROOM, from which, by a doorway, the Oak Corridor is also -entered, and from which, by a light staircase, access to the upper -suite of sleeping apartments, including the ‘Arragon room’ (and to the -lower rooms) is gained. From this ante-room— - -“THE WEST LIBRARY is entered. This apartment, a fine, sombre, -quiet-looking room, has a panelled ceiling, at the intersections of -the ribs of which are carved heraldic bosses. In the centre is a large -and massive dark oak table, and around the sides of the room are -ranged fine old carved and inlaid cabinets and presses for books. Over -these presses, and in different parts of this room and of the ‘North -Library,’ are a number of well-chosen mottoes, than which for a library -nothing could well be more appropriate. Thus, in these mottoes, among -others we read— - - “‘Study wisdom and make thy heart joyful.’ - “‘The wise shall inherit glory, but shame shall be the portion of - fools.’ - “‘They that be wise shall shine as the firmament.’ - “‘Blessed is the man that findeth wisdom, and is rich in prudence.’ - “‘The heart of the wise shall instruct his mouth and add grace to his - lips.’ - “‘Take hold on instruction; leave it not; keep it because it is thy - life.’ - “‘Knowledge is a fountain of life to him that possesseth it.’ - -“From this fine apartment the NORTH LIBRARY is entered by two open -archways. This room is similar in its appointments to the West Library, -and with it forms one magnificent whole. At the north-west corner of -this room (in the tower) is a charming apartment, connected with the -library by an open archway, called— - -“THE POET’S BAY or ‘Poet’s Corner,’ which is one of the most charming -of all imaginable retreats. The bay window overlooks the park and the -distant country for miles away, while the side windows overlook parts -of the grounds and buildings. The ceiling is of the most elaborate -character, covered with minute tracery and exquisite pendents -picked out in gold and colours. At the west end of the library is a -stained-glass window with full-length figures of ‘Gilbert Talbot’ and -the ‘Lady Joan,’ with their arms under Gothic canopies. From this room -a door on the south side opens into the ‘Oak Corridor,’ while two open -arches at the east end connect it with— - -“THE MUSIC-ROOM, the ceiling of which is an elegant example of -flamboyant tracery, the ground being blue, and the raised tracery -white and gold. The chimney-piece of white marble is elaborately -sculptured, and from it rises a majestic pier-glass. On either side are -portraits of Earl John and his Countess, life-size, surmounted by their -coronets. The furniture which remains is of remarkably fine character, -carved and gilt, and the walls are here and there filled in with -mirrors, which add much to the effect. On the south side is a large -and deeply-recessed bay window, like the rest, of Gothic design, with -stained glass in its upper portion, representing King David playing on -the harp, St. Cecilia, and angels with various musical instruments. -In front of this window is a beautiful parterre of flowers, the -Conservatory being to the left, and the state-rooms to the right. From -the ‘Music-Room,’ glass doors, in a Gothic screen, open into a small -library, with Gothic presses and stained-glass window with Talbot arms, -&c. From this room another similar door opens into— - -“THE DRAWING-ROOM, a remarkably fine and strikingly grand Gothic -apartment, with a ceiling of flamboyant tracery of very similar design -to the one already named. To the right, on entering, a central door of -Gothic screen-work and glass opens into the CONSERVATORY, which, as I -have before said, connects this room and those on the north side with -the Octagon and those on the south side. The CONSERVATORY is entirely -of glass, both roof and sides, and has a central transept. It is filled -with the choicest plants, and in every part, except the vestibule, -the sweetly pretty and appropriate text, ‘Consider the lilies of the -field how they grow; they toil not, neither do they spin, yet I say -unto you, that even Solomon in all his glory was not arrayed like unto -one of these,’ is painted around the cornice. In the vestibule, as I -have said, the motto is, ‘The speech of flowers exceeds all flowers of -speech.’ Over the Conservatory door, in stained glass, are the arms of -Talbot, Verdun, &c.; the crowned rose and thistle; and other devices. -Opposite to the Conservatory, on the north side, is the ‘Saloon.’ -The furniture of the ‘Drawing-room,’ the chairs, couches, and seats, -are all of the most costly character, some of them draped with the -arms, supporters, &c., of the earl in gold and crimson damask. On a -table in this room are arranged the various addresses, in cabinets, -&c., presented to the late Earl of Shrewsbury on his accession to the -earldom and estates after the trial in 1860, and a magnificent ancient -casket, the outer glass case of which bears the inscription—‘La casset -Talbot presente par Jean, premier Comte de Shreusburie, sur son mariage -a Marguerite Beauclerc.’ On the walls, besides other paintings, is -a fine full-length seated figure of Queen Adelaide. The ends of the -room are Gothic screen-work, with doors and mirrors. One of these, at -the east end, leads into another small library, and so on by a small -gallery, denuded of its objects of interest, to the CHAPEL CORRIDOR -(elaborately groined and panelled in oak), from which the private -apartments are gained, and which also leads direct to— - -“THE CHAPEL, which, although ruthlessly shorn of its relics, its -paintings, its altar, its shrines, and all its more interesting -objects, is still one of the most gorgeous and beautiful of rooms. It -is enough to say that it is one of Pugin’s masterpieces, and that the -stained glass is perhaps the finest that even Willement, by whom it was -executed, ever produced. It is impossible to conceive anything finer -than was the effect of this chapel when it was in perfect order. - -[Illustration: _The Conservatories._] - -“With the drawing-room, as I have said, an open archway connects -another magnificent apartment, the SALOON, which has a fine oak-groined -ceiling, with elegantly carved, gilt, and painted bosses. In the centre -of the west side is a fine stained-glass window, representing Edward, -the Black Prince, full length, in armour, and with his garter robes, -painted by Muss; and opposite to this a doorway opens into a corridor -leading to the drawing and other rooms. The view from the north end -of the saloon, looking down its full length, across the splendid -drawing-room, down the long vista of the conservatory, and into the -octagon at the farthest end, is fine in the extreme, and is indeed -matchless. - -“THE CORRIDOR, of which I have just spoken, is one of the most dainty -and minutely beautiful ‘bits’ of the whole building. It is of oak, the -sides are panelled and gilt, and from small clustered pilasters rises -the elaborate oak groining of the ceiling, the groining being what can -only be expressed as ‘skeleton groining,’ the ribs alone being of oak, -partly painted and gilt, and the space between them being filled in -with a minute geometric pattern in stained glass. From this corridor a -door in the north side opens into the— - -“SMALL or FAMILY DINING-ROOM, a fine sombre-looking apartment, about -25 feet square, and furnished with a magnificent central table, and -every accompaniment that wealth can desire. The ceiling is of oak, -panelled, and has a rich armorial cornice, with arms of Talbot, running -around it. The chimney-piece, of dark oak, is a splendid piece of -ancient carving. From the corridor another doorway leads to a staircase -connecting other private apartments above, while at its east end it -opens into— - -“THE GRAND DINING-HALL, near which are the kitchens. This hall, which -was being remodelled and altered by Pugin at the time of the Earl’s -death, remains to this day in an unfinished state, but shows how -truly grand in every way it would have been had it been completed. -The roof is one of the finest imaginable, and from its centre rises -a majestic louvre, which at once admits a subdued light and acts as -a ventilator. It is of truly noble proportions, and the fire-places -and carved stone chimney-pieces are grand in the extreme—the latter -bearing the arms, crest, supporters, motto, chapeau, &c., of the Earl -of Shrewsbury. The sides of the room were intended to be panelled, as -was also the minstrels’ gallery, with carved oak, and a part of this -is already placed. At the north end is a fine large window, the upper -part of which is filled with armorial bearings, but the lower part -has never been completed, and is filled in with plain quarries. The -arms in this window are those of Talbot Earl of Shrewsbury, Clifford, -Beauchamp, De Valence, Comyn, Mountchesny, Nevile, Middleham, Clifford, -Bohun, Strange of Blackmere, Tailebot, Troutbeke, Claveringe, Buckley, -Pembroke, Borghese, Doria, Lovetoft, Mareschal, Strongbow, King Donald, -Raby, Lacy, De Verdun, Castile and Leon, D’Angoulême, William the -Conqueror, Bagot, Mexley, Aylmer, and others. - -[Illustration: _The Pagoda._] - -“From here a short corridor leads to a small vestibule, from which -the other private apartments extend. Of these the principal one is the -BOUDOIR of the Countess of Shrewsbury—a charming apartment, replete -with every luxury and with every appliance which taste and art can -dictate. The ‘Doria’ and other apartments are reached from near this by -a circular staircase. From the vestibule the private entrance to the -Towers is gained, and from it is the private way across the entrance -gateway into the grounds; and also through the small tower and across -the drawbridge the park is reached. The drawbridge crosses the moat, -and the entrance is fully guarded, and has all the appliances of an old -baronial castle.”[2] - -And now let us speak briefly of the situation of Alton Towers, and -of its grounds of matchless charms. Situate almost in the centre of -England—in busy Staffordshire, but on the borders of picturesque -Derbyshire—Alton Towers is within easy reach of several populous -cities and towns, the active and laborious denizens of which frequently -“breathe” in these always open gardens and grounds the pure and -fragrant air. - -The roads to it are, moreover, full of interest and surpassing beauty; -approached from any side, the traveller passes through a country rich -in the picturesque. Those who reach it from thronged and toiling -Manchester, from active and energetic Derby, from the potteries of busy -Staffordshire, are regaled by Nature on their way, and are refreshed -before they drink from the full cup of loveliness with which the -mansion and its grounds and gardens supply them. - -The route from Derby passes by way of Egginton; Tutbury, whose grand -old church and extensive ruins of the castle are seen to the left of -the line; Sudbury, where the seat of Lord Vernon (Sudbury Hall) will be -noticed to the right; Marchington, Scropton, and Uttoxeter. Here, at -Uttoxeter Junction, the passenger for Alton Towers will alight, and, -entering another carriage, proceed on his way, passing the town of -Uttoxeter on his left, and Doveridge Hall, the seat of Lord Waterpark, -on his right, by way of Rocester (where the branch line for Ashbourne -and Dove-Dale joins in), to the Alton Station. Arrived here, he will -notice, a short distance to the left, high up on a wooded cliff, the -unfinished Roman Catholic Hospital of St. John, and on the right, close -to the station, the entrance lodge to the Towers. - -From Manchester the visitor proceeds by way of Stockport and -Macclesfield to the North Rode Junction, and so on by Leek and -Oakamoor, &c., through the beautiful scenery of the Churnet valley, to -Alton Station, as before. - -From the Staffordshire Potteries the visitor, after leaving -Stoke-upon-Trent, will pass through Longton, another of the pottery -towns, Blythe Bridge, Cresswell, and Leigh, to Uttoxeter, whence he -will proceed in the same manner as if travelling from Derby. - -There are, besides others of less note, two principal entrances to the -park and grounds of Alton Towers. One of these, the “Quicksall” Lodge, -is on the Uttoxeter Road, about a quarter of a mile from Ellastone. By -this the “Earl’s Drive” is entered, and it is, for length and beauty, -the most charming of the roads to the house. The drive is about three -miles in length from the lodge to the house, and passes through some -truly charming scenery along the vale and on the heights of the Churnet -valley—the river Churnet being visible at intervals through the first -part of its route. Within about half a mile of the house, on the right, -will be seen the conservatory, ornamented with statues, busts, and -vases, and on the left a lake of water. A little farther on is the -Gothic temple, close to the road-side. At this point Alton Towers and -the intervening gardens burst upon the eye in all their magnificence -and beauty. It is a peep into a terrestrial paradise. Proceeding -onwards another quarter of a mile through a plantation of pines, the -noble mansion stands before us in all the fulness of its splendour. -The lake, the lawn, the arcade bridge, the embattled terrace, the -towers, and the surrounding foliage come broadly and instantaneously -upon the view—a splendid and imposing picture—a place to be gazed on -and wondered at. By this drive the Towers are reached by way of the -castellated stable-screen, and so on over the bridge and the entrance -to the gardens. - -The other, and usual, lodge, is close by the Alton Station on the -Churnet Valley (North Staffordshire) Railway. This lodge, designed by -Pugin, and decorated with the sculptured arms of the family, is about -a mile from the house, and the carriage-drive up the wood is on the -ascent all the way. A path, called “the steps,” for foot passengers, -turns off from the lodge, and winds and “zig-zags” its way up, arriving -at the house opposite to the Clock Tower, and passing on its way some -charming bits of rocky and wooded scenery. - -[Illustration: _The Choragic Temple._] - -The gardens are entered from the park by a pair of gates (on either -side of which is a superb cedar) in an archway, under the “Earl’s -Drive” Bridge. Near this spot is the CHORAGIC TEMPLE, designed from -the Choragic monument of Lysicrates, at Athens; it contains a bust -of Earl Charles, the founder of the gardens, with the appropriate -inscription—“He made the desert smile.” From here the visitor then -proceeds along a winding path with an arcaded wall on one side, and the -valley, from which come up the music of the stream and the bubbling -of the miniature fountains, on the other. This passes between myriads -of standard roses on either side, and long continuous beds of “ribbon -gardening,” or what, from its splendid array of continuous lines of -colours, may very appropriately be termed “rainbow gardening,” and -pathways winding about in every direction, among roses, hollyhocks, and -shrubs and flowers of divers kinds, to a pleasant spot to the left, -where is a terrace garden approached by steps with pedestals bearing -choice sculptures. In the centre is a sundial; behind this, a fine -group of sculpture, and behind this again a fountain, surmounted by a -lion. The wall is covered with luxuriant ivy, and headed by innumerable -vases of gay-coloured flowers, above which, a little to the back, rises -one of the many conservatories that are scattered over this portion of -the grounds. - -Passing onwards, the visitor soon afterwards reaches the GRAND -CONSERVATORIES—a splendid pile of buildings on his left. These -conservatories are three hundred feet in length, and consist of a -central house for palm-trees, and other plants of a similar nature; two -glass-roofed open corridors filled with hardy plants, and decorated -with gigantic vases filled with flowers; and, at one end, a fine -orangery, and at the other end a similar house filled with different -choice plants and trees. In front of the Grand Conservatory the -grounds are terraced to the bottom of the valley, and immediately -opposite, on the distant heights, is the “Harper’s Cottage.” At the -end of the broad terrace-walk, in front of the conservatory, is THE -TEMPLE—a semi-open temple, or alcove, of circular form, fitted with -seats and central table. From this charming spot, which the visitor -will find too tempting to pass by without a rest, a magnificent view -of the grounds is obtained. Immediately beneath are the terraces, -with their parterres, ponds, arcades, and fountains, receding gently -from the view till they are lost in the deep valley, beyond which -rise the wooded heights, terrace on terrace, on the other side, and -terminated with tall trees and the buildings of the tower. From the -temple a broad pathway leads on to the GOTHIC TEMPLE, and so to the -modern STONEHENGE—an imitation Druidical circle—and other interesting -objects. Retracing his path, the visitor will do well to descend by the -steps to a lower terrace, where he will find an open alcove beneath the -temple. From here many paths diverge amid beds of the choicest flowers -laid out with the most exquisite taste, and of every variety of form, -and studded in all directions with vases and statuary. - -[Illustration: _Alton Towers, from the Lower Terrace._] - -Descending a flight of steps beneath a canopy of ivy, a rosery, arched -behind an open arcade of stone, is reached. This arcade is decorated -with gigantic vases and pedestals, and from here, arcade after arcade, -terrace after terrace, and flight of steps after flight of steps, lead -down to the bottom of the valley, where the “lower lake,” filled with -water-lilies and other aquatic plants, is found. In this lake stands -the PAGODA, or CHINESE TEMPLE. Before reaching this, about halfway -down the hill-side, will be seen the “upper lake,” a charming sheet of -water, filled with water-lilies and other plants, and containing, among -its other beauties, a number of fish and water-fowl. Over this lake -is a prettily designed foot-bridge forming a part of what is called -“Jacob’s Ladder”—a sloping pathway with innumerable turnings, and -twinings, and flights of steps. Arrived at the PAGODA FOUNTAIN, the -visitor will choose between returning by the same route, or crossing -or going round the lake, and pursuing his way up the opposite side, -by winding and zig-zag pathways and small plateau, to the top of the -heights. - -The ornamental grounds are, as will have been gathered from this -description, a deep valley or ravine, which, made lovely in the highest -and wildest degree by nature, has been converted by man into a kind of -earthly paradise. The house stands at one end or edge of this ravine, -and commands a full view of the beauties with which it is studded. -These garden grounds, although only some fifty or sixty acres in -extent, are, by their very character, and by their innumerable winding -pathways, and their diversified scenery, made to appear of at least -twice that extent. Both sides of the ravine or gorge, are formed into -a series of terraces, each of which is famed for some special charm of -natural or artificial scenery it contains or commands; while temples, -grottoes, fountains, rockeries, statues, vases, conservatories, -refuges, alcoves, steps, and a thousand-and-one other beauties, seem -to spring up everywhere and add their attractions to the general -scene. Without wearying the visitor by taking him along these devious -paths—which he will follow at will—a word or two on some of the main -features of the gardens, besides those of which we have already spoken, -will suffice. Some of these are:— - -The HARPER’S COTTAGE, in which the Welsh harper—a fine old remnant -of the bardic race of his country, and an esteemed retainer of the -family—resided, is near the summit of the heights opposite to the -“Grand Conservatories.” It is in the Swiss style, and commands one of -the most gorgeous views of the grounds and their surroundings. It was -built from the designs of Mr. Fradgley, who was employed during no less -than twenty-two years on works at Alton Towers. - -The CORKSCREW FOUNTAIN, standing in the midst of a pool filled with -aquatic plants, is a column of unequal thickness of five tiers, each -of which is fluted up its surface in a spiral direction, giving it a -curious and pleasing effect. - -The GOTHIC TEMPLE, at the summit of the heights, on the opposite side -from the “Harper’s Cottage,” and closely adjoining the “Earl’s Drive,” -is a light and picturesque building of four stories in height, with a -spiral staircase leading to the top. From it a magnificent view of the -grounds, the towers, and the surrounding country, is obtained. - -The REFUGE is a pretty little retreat—a recessed alcove with inner -room in fact—which the visitor, if weary with “sight-seeing,” or, for -a time, satiated with beauty, will find pleasant for a rest. - -[Illustration: _The Gothic Temple._] - -The PAGODA FOUNTAIN is built in form of a Chinese pagoda. It is placed -in the lower lake, and from its top rises a majestic jet of water which -falls down into the lake and adds much to the beauty of the place. - -STONEHENGE.—This is an imitation “Druidic Circle” formed of stones, -of about nine tons in weight each; it is highly picturesque, and forms -a pleasing feature. Near to it is the upper lake. - -The FLAG TOWER, near the house, is a prospect-tower of six stories -in height. It is a massive square building with circular turrets at -its angles. The view from the top is one of the most beautiful and -extensive which the country can boast—embracing the house, gardens, -grounds, and broad domains of Alton Towers; the village of Alton -with its church and parsonage; the ruins of the old castle of the De -Verduns; the new monastic buildings—the Hospital of St. John, the -Institution, the Nunnery, and the Chapel; the valley of the Churnet; -Toot Hill; and the distant country stretching out for miles around. - -INA’S ROCK is one of the many interesting spots in the grounds. It is -about three-quarters of a mile from the Towers, on what is called the -“Rock Walk.” It is said that after a great battle fought near the spot -(on a place still called the “battle-field”), between Ceolred and Ina, -Kings of Mercia and Wessex, the latter chieftain held a parliament at -this rock; whence it takes its names. We have thus guided the reader -through the house and grounds of Alton Towers. - -The district around Alton Towers is rich in interesting places, and -in beautiful localities where the visitor may while away many an hour -in enjoyment. The monastic buildings, on the site of old Alton Castle, -are charmingly situated, and deserve a few words at our hands. These -we quote from Mr. Jewitt’s “Alton Towers:”—“The monastic buildings, -which form such a striking and picturesque object from the railway -station, and indeed from many points in the surrounding neighbourhood, -were erected from the designs, and under the immediate superintendence, -of the late Mr. Pugin, and are, for stern simplicity and picturesque -arrangement, perhaps the most successful of all his works. The -buildings have never been—and probably never will be—completed, and -they remain a sad instance of the mutability of human plans. Commenced -at the suggestion, and carried out at the expense, of a Roman Catholic -nobleman; planned and erected by a Roman Catholic architect; and -intended as a permanent establishment for Roman Catholic priests, &c., -&c., the buildings rose in great pride and beauty, and were continued -with the utmost spirit, until the death of Earl Bertram, when, after -the trials I have recounted, the estates passed into Protestant hands, -the works were at once discontinued, and the buildings have since been -allowed, with the exception of the chapel and the apartments devoted -to the residence of a priest (and the school), to become dilapidated. -The castle grounds on which these buildings are erected are situated -near the church, the buildings forming three sides of a quadrangle—one -being the school and institution, and the others the cloisters, -priest’s house, chapel, and other buildings. From this the moat is -crossed by a wooden bridge to the ruins of the castle and the hospital -of St. John. The buildings are beautifully shown on the engraving on -the next page. - -[Illustration: _Part of the Grounds._] - -“The erection of these Roman Catholic buildings gave rise to much -annoyance, and much ill-feeling was engendered in the neighbourhood; -and a hoax was played on Pugin, whose susceptibilities were strong and -hasty. It was as follows: One day—of all days ‘April fool day’—he -received the following letter:— - -[Illustration: _Alton—Hospital of St. John._] - -“‘Dear Sir—It is with deep sorrow that I venture to inform you of a -circumstance which has just come to my knowledge; and, though an entire -stranger, I take the liberty of addressing you, being aware of your -zeal for the _honour_ and welfare of the Catholic Church. What, then, -will be your grief and indignation (if you have not already heard it) -at being told that—fearing the bazaar, in behalf of the Monastery of -St. Bernard, may prove unsuccessful—it has been thought that more -people would be drawn to it were the _monks to hold the stalls_! Was -there ever such a scandal given to our most holy religion? It may -have been done ignorantly or innocently; but it is enough to make a -Catholic of feeling shudder! _I_ am not in a situation to have the -slightest influence in putting an end to this most dreadful proceeding; -but knowing you to be well acquainted with the head of the English -Catholics—the good Earl of Shrewsbury—would you not write to him, -and request him to use his influence (which must be great) in stopping -the _sacrilege_, for such it really is? Think of your Holy Church thus -_degraded_ and made a by-word in the mouths of Protestants! I know how -you love and venerate her. Aid her then now, and attempt to rescue her -from this calamity! Pray excuse the freedom with which I have written, -and believe me, dear sir, A SINCERE LOVER OF MY CHURCH, BUT AN ENEMY TO -THE PROTESTANT PRINCIPLE OF BAZAARS.’ - -“Pugin wrote immediately to the earl in an impassioned strain, but, -in reference to this trick, when the light had at length dawned upon -him, in writing to Lord Shrewsbury, he says—‘I have found out at -last that the alarm about the monks at the bazaar was all a hoax; and -rumour mentions some ladies, not far distant from the Towers, as the -authors. I must own it was capitally done, and put me into a perfect -fever for some days. I only read the letter late in the day, and sent a -person all the way to the General Post Office to save the post. I never -gave the day of the month a moment’s consideration. I shall be better -prepared for the next 1st of April.’ - -“The school, which was intended also as a literary institution, a hall, -and a lecture-room for Alton, will be seen to the right on entering -the grounds; the house, to the left, now occupied as a convent, being -intended for a residence of the schoolmaster. In the original design -the cloistered part of the establishment was intended to be the convent -(the chapel being a nuns’ chapel), and the parish church of Alton -was intended to be rebuilt in the same style as the splendid church -at Cheadle. The hospital was to be for decayed priests. The chapel -is a beautiful little building, highly decorated in character, and -remarkably pure and good in proportions. In it, to the north of the -altar, are buried Earl John and his Countess, and to the south Earl -Bertram. The following are the inscriptions on the brasses to their -memory:— - - “‘Hic jacet corpus Johannis quondam Comitis Salopiæ XVI. qui hunc - Sacellum et hospitium construere fecit A.D. MDCCCXLIV. Orate pro anima - misserimi peccatoris obiit Neapoli die IX No MDCCCLII Ætatis suæ LXI.’ - - “‘In Memoriam Mariæ Teresiæ, Johannis Comitis Salopiæ Viduæ, Natæ - Wexfordiæ XXII Maii MDCCXCV. Parissis obiit IV Junii MDCCCLVI quorum - animas Viventium Amor Sanctissimus incor unum conflasse Videbatur - corpora eodem sepulchro deposita misericordiam ejusdem redemptoris - expectant. R.I.P.’ - - “‘Orate pro anima Bertrami Artheri Talbot XVII Com: Salop: ob: die: - 10º August 1856. Requiescat in pace.’ - -“In the cloisters is another beautiful brass, on which is the following -inscription:— - - “‘Good Christian people of your charity pray for the soul of Mistress - Anne Talbot wife of Will^m Talbot Esquire of Castle Talbot Wexford - who died on the V day of May A.D. MDCCCXLIV. Also for the soul of the - above named Will^m Talbot Esq^{re} who died the II^{nd} day of Aug^t - MDCCCXLIX aged LXXXVI years. May they rest in peace.’ - -“On a slab on the floor:— - - “‘Of your charity pray for the soul of Sister Mary Joseph Healy of the - Order of Mercy. Who died 4th August 1857 in the 31st year of her age, - and the 5th of her Religious Profession. R.I.P.’ - -“On a brass:— - - “‘Orato pro anima Domini Caroli quondam Comitis Salopiæ qui obiit VI - die Aprilis anno domini MDCCCXXVII Ætatis suæ LXIV.’”[3] - -ALTON CHURCH is also worthy of a visit, not because of any special -architectural features which it contains, but because of its commanding -situation and its near proximity to the Castle. It is of Norman -foundation. The village itself (visitors to the locality will be glad -to learn that it contains a very comfortable inn, the “Wheatsheaf”) is -large and very picturesque, and its immediate neighbourhood abounds in -delightful walks and in glorious “bits” of scenery. - -DEMON’S DALE—a haunted place concerning which many strange stories are -current—is also about a mile from Alton, and is highly picturesque. - -CROXDEN ABBEY (or Crokesden Abbey) is a grand old ruin, within an easy -walk of Alton. It was founded by Bertram de Verdun, owner of Alton -Castle, in 1176. - -It will be readily understood that the renown of Alton Towers arises -principally from the garden and grounds by which the mansion is -environed. But if to nature it is indebted for its hills and dells, its -steep ascents and graceful undulations, art has done much to augment -its attractions. It may have been a “desert” when Earl Charles strove, -and successfully, to convert it into a paradise; but the rough material -was ready to his hand, and to taste, with judicious expenditure, the -task was not difficult to make it what it became, and now is—one of -the most exquisitely beautiful demesnes in the British dominions. - - - - -COBHAM HALL. - - -THE county of Kent is one of the pleasantest of the English shires; -rich in cultivated and pictorial beauty, it has been aptly and justly -called “the garden of England.” Patrician trees are found everywhere: -for centuries the hand of ruthless and reckless war has never touched -them; its chalky soil is redolent of health; its pasture lands are -proverbially fertile; its gentle hills are nowhere barren; in many -parts it borders the sea; and to-day, as it did ages ago,— - - “It doth advance - A haughty brow against the coast of France;” - -the men of Kent are, as they ever have been, and by God’s blessing ever -will be, the “vanguard of liberty.” Moreover, it is rich, above all -other counties, in traditions and antiquities; some of its customs have -continued unchanged for centuries; its ecclesiastical pre-eminence is -still retained; while some of the noblest and most perfect of British -baronial mansions are to be found in the graciously endowed county that -borders the metropolis. - -Among the most perfect of its stately mansions is that to which we -introduce the reader—Cobham Hall, the seat of the Earl of Darnley, -Baron Clifton.[4] Its proximity to the metropolis—from which, if we -measure distances by time, it is separated by little more than an -hour—would alone supply a sufficient motive for its selection into -this series. It is situated about four miles south-east of Gravesend, -nearly midway between that town and Rochester, but a mile or so out of -the direct road. The narrow coach-paths which lead to it are shaded by -pleasant hedgerows, and run between lines of hop-gardens—the comely -vineyards of England. - -[Illustration: _Cobham Hall._] - -The mansion stands in the midst of scenery of surpassing loveliness, -alternating hill and valley, rich in “patrician trees” and “plebeian -underwood,” dotted with pretty cottages, and interspersed with -primitive villages: while here and there are scattered “old houses” of -red brick, with their carved wooden gables and tall twisted chimneys; -and glimpses are caught occasionally of the all-glorious Thames. A -visit to Cobham Hall, therefore, furnishes a most refreshing and -invigorating luxury to dwellers in the metropolis; and the liberality -of its noble owner adds to the rich banquet of Nature as rare a treat -as can be supplied by Art. The Hall, independent of the interest it -derives from its quaint architecture, its fine, although not unmixed, -remains of the Tudor style, contains a gallery of pictures, by the best -masters of the most famous schools, large in number and of rare value. - -Before we commence our description of the Hall, the demesne, the -Church, the College, and the village of Cobham,[5] it is necessary that -we supply some information concerning the several families under whose -guardianship they have flourished. - -Cobham Hall has not descended from sire to son through many -generations. Its present lord is in no way, or at least but remotely, -connected with the ancient family who for centuries governed the “men -of Kent,” and who, at one period, possessed power second only to that -of the sovereign. That race of bold barons has been long extinct, the -last of them dying in miserable poverty; and if their proud blood is -still to be found within their once princely barony, it runs, probably, -through the veins of some tiller of the soil. - -The Cobhams had been famous from the earliest recorded times. In -Philipot’s “Survey of Kent”—1659—it is said that “Cobham afforded a -seat and a surname to that noble and splendid family; and certainly,” -adds the quaint old writer, “this place was the cradle or seminary of -persons who, in elder ages, were invested in places of as signall and -principal a trust or eminence, as they could move in, in the narrow -orbe of a particular county.” In the reign of King John, Henry de -Cobham gave 1,000 marks to the king for his favour. He left three sons, -viz., John, who was Sheriff of Kent, Justice of Common Pleas, and Judge -Itinerant; Reginald, also Sheriff of Kent, Constable of Dover Castle, -and Warden of the Cinque Ports; and William, also Justice Itinerant. -The eldest, John de Cobham, was succeeded by his son John, who in turn -became Sheriff of Kent, one of the Justices of King’s Bench and Common -Pleas, and Baron of the Exchequer. His son Henry de Cobham was Governor -of Guernsey and Jersey, Constable of Dover Castle, and Warden of the -Cinque Ports; so was also, again, _his_ son Henry, who likewise was -Governor of Tunbridge Castle, and was summoned to Parliament 6 to 9 -Edward III. He was succeeded by his son John de Cobham, Admiral of the -Fleet, Justice of _Oyer_ and _Terminer_, and Ambassador to France, who -in “10 Richard II. was one of the thirteen appointed by the predominant -lords to govern the realm, but was after impeached for treason, and -had judgment pronounced against him, but obtained pardon, being sent -prisoner to the island of Jersey.” Dying in the ninth year of Henry -IV., he left his granddaughter, Joan, his heiress. This lady married -for her third husband Sir John Oldcastle, who assumed the title of Lord -Cobham. Reginald de Cobham, half brother to John, was Justice of King’s -Bench, an Admiral, an Ambassador to the Pope, and commander of the van -of the army at Crecy. He was succeeded by his son, Reginald de Cobham, -who likewise was succeeded by _his_ son Reginald; he left an only -daughter as heir. - -No less than four Kentish gentlemen of the name embarked with the first -Edward in his “victorious and triumphant expedition into Scotland,” and -were knighted for services rendered to that prince in his “successful -and auspicious siege of Caerlaverock.” With Reginald de Cobham, as has -been shown, the male line determined. Joan, his daughter, is said to -have had five husbands, by only one of whom, Sir Reginald Braybrooke, -she left issue, Joan, who being married to Sir Thomas Broke, of the -county of Somerset, Knight, “knitt Cobham, and a large income beside, -to her husband’s patrimony.”[6] - -Their eldest son, Sir Edward Broke, was summoned to parliament, -as Baron Cobham, in the 23rd Henry VI. In 1559 Sir William Broke -entertained Queen Elizabeth at Cobham Hall, in the first year of her -reign, “with a noble welcome as she took her progress through the -county of Kent.” His son and successor, Henry, Lord Cobham, was Lord -Warden of the Cinque Ports; but “being too deeply concerned in the -design of Sir Walter Raleigh,” he was deprived of his estates, though -not his life.[7] - -His younger brother, George, was executed; but Cobham “lived many -years after in great misery and poverty,” dying in January, 1619; -and sharing the humble grave of some lowly peasant, apart from the -magnificent tombs which cover the remains of his great and gallant -ancestors. He is said, by Weldon, to have been reduced to such extreme -necessity, that “he had starved, but for a trencher-scraper, some time -his servant at court, who relieved him with scraps.” - -A sister of Lord Cobham’s was married to Secretary Sir Robert Cecil: -his estimable and greatly beloved lady died in January, 1596-7. She was -also a kinswoman of Sir Walter Raleigh, and in one of his letters to -Cecil he says:—“It is trew that you have lost a good and vertuous wife -and my sealf an honorable frinde and kinswoman. Butt ther was a tyme -when shee was unknowne to you, for whom you then lamented not. Shee -is now no more your’s, nor of your acquayntance, butt immortall, and -not needinge nor knowynge your love or sorrow. Therfor you shall but -greve for that which now is as it was, when not your’s; only bettered -by the differance in this, that shee hath past the weresome jurney of -this darke worlde, and hath possession of her inheritance. Shee hath -left behind her the frute of her love, for whos sakes you ought to take -care for your sealf, that you leve them not without a gwyde, and not -by grevinge to repine att His will that gave them yow, or by sorrowing -to dry upp your own tymes that ought to establish them.” This lady was -sister to two of the unhappy conspirators of 1603 and kinswoman to the -third, as well as being wife of the chief officer of state by whom -these conspiracies had to be brought to light. Well therefore was it, -for her, that her pure spirit had taken its flight before the time of -attainder of her brothers, Henry, Lord Cobham, and George Broke, and -their baseness by falsity and otherwise in leading the much-injured -Raleigh to the scaffold. “Whatever mysteries,” says Mr. Edwards, “may -yet hang over the plots and counterplots of 1603, it is certain that -George Broke proved in the issue to have been the _instrument_ of the -ruin alike of his brother Cobham and of Raleigh. It is also certain -that mere ‘credulity of the practices of malice and envy’ could never -have ripened, save in a very congenial soil, into the consummate -baseness displayed both in the examinations and in some of the letters -of George Broke after his arrest. In certain particulars his baseness -exceeded his brother Cobham’s, and that is saying not a little as -to its depth.” His estates, at the time of their confiscation, are -estimated to have been worth £7,000 per annum; and he possessed £30,000 -in goods and chattels. His nephew was restored in blood; but not to -the title or property. These were transferred—“the manor and seat of -Cobham Hall, and the rest of Lord Cobham’s lands”—by James I. to one -of his kinsmen, Ludovick Stuart, Duke of Lennox, whose male line became -extinct in 1672. - -The Lady Katherine, sister of the last Duke of Richmond and Lennox, -married into the princely family of the O’Briens of Thomond; but the -Duke “dying greatly in debt” the estates were sold. Cobham Hall was -purchased by the second husband of the Lady Katherine, Sir Joseph -Williamson, who resided there for some time.[8] In 1701 he died, -bequeathing two-thirds of his property to his widow. This proportion -descended, on her demise, to Edward Lord Clifton and Cornbury, -afterwards Lord Clarendon, who had married the sole child of this Lady -Katherine, by her first husband, Henry Lord O’Brien;[9] and on Lord -Clarendon’s death without issue, in 1713, his sister, Lady Theodosia -Hyde, inherited; she married John Bligh, of the kingdom of Ireland, -Esq.; created, in 1721, an Irish peer by the title of Lord Clifton of -Rathmore, and, in 1725, Earl of Darnley in that kingdom. - -For some years the Cobham estate was in Chancery. After a tedious suit -it was purchased by Lord Darnley for the sum of £51,000, to the third -part of which a Mrs. Hornby became entitled, as relict of the gentleman -to whom Sir Joseph Williamson had devised one third part.[10] - -The Blighs are an ancient family, connected with Devonshire and other -parts of the West of England as well as with Ireland. One of them, -a merchant of Plymouth, an ancestor of the present peer, married -Catherine Fuller, sister to William Fuller, Bishop of Limerick and -Lincoln (1667-1675). In 1721 John Bligh of Rathmore, in the kingdom of -Ireland, Esquire, who had married the Lady Theodosia Hyde, sister to -Edward, Earl of Clarendon (whose wife Catherine, daughter of Katherine -Lady Thomond, who had successfully claimed the barony of Clifton of -Leighton Bromswold, in the peerage of the United Kingdom, as being -descended from the first Lord Clifton, inherited the said barony from -her mother), from whom he inherited the title and the estates, was -created Baron Clifton of Rathmere, in the kingdom of Ireland, in 1721. - -[Illustration: _The Three Sisters._] - -In 1723 he was created Viscount Darnley of Athboy, and in 1725 Earl -of Darnley, both in the peerage of Ireland. He also succeeded to the -title of Baron Clifton of Leighton Bromswold, in the peerage of the -United Kingdom, by which title he and his successors sit in the House -of Lords. His lordship was succeeded, as second Earl of Darnley, by -his son, who was again, on his death, succeeded by his son John, as -third earl. This nobleman, who was born in 1719, married in 1766 Mary, -daughter and heiress of John Stoyt, of Street, co. Westmeath, and by -her, who died in 1803, had issue John, afterwards fourth earl; Lady -Mary, married to Sir Lawrence Palk, Bart.; the Hon. Edward Bligh, a -general in the army; Lady Theodosia, married to her cousin, Thomas -Cherbourgh Bligh; Lady Catherine, married to Hon. Charles William -Stewart, afterwards Marquis of Londonderry; and the Hon. William, a -colonel in the army. The Earl died in 1781, and was succeeded by his -son John, as fourth earl. He married, in 1791, Elizabeth, daughter -of the Right Hon. William Brownlow of Lurgan, and by her had issue -Edward, fifth earl; Lady Mary, married to Charles Brownlow, Esq.; Hon. -John Duncan Bligh, Secretary of Legation at St. Petersburgh; and the -Lady Elizabeth, married to the Rev. J. Brownlow. His lordship died -in 1831, and was succeeded by his son Edward, fifth earl, who (born -in 1795), married in 1825 Emma Jane, third daughter of Sir Henry -Brooke Parnell, Bart., M.P.,—who, having held office as Secretary -at War, Paymaster-General of the Forces, and Treasurer of the Navy -and Ordnance, was created Baron Congleton in 1841,—and sister to the -present Lord Congleton. By this lady, who is still living, his lordship -had issue, John Stuart Bligh, sixth and present earl of Darnley; the -Hon. and Rev. Edward Vesey Bligh; the Hon. and Rev. Henry Bligh; the -Lady Elizabeth Caroline, and the Lady Emma Bess, both of whom are -married and bear the name of Cust—the first being the wife of Reginald -Cust, Esq., and the latter the wife of the Rev. Arthur Perceval -Purey-Cust. His lordship died in 1835, and was succeeded by his eldest -son, John Stuart Bligh, as sixth earl. - -The present peer, John Stuart Bligh, sixth Earl of Darnley, Viscount -Darnley of Athboy, Baron Clifton of Leighton Bromswold, and Baron -Clifton of Rathmore, was born in 1827, and was educated at Eton and -Christ Church, Oxford, being B.A. in 1848, and M.A. in 1851. He married -in 1850 the Lady Harriet Mary Pelham, eldest daughter of the third -Earl of Chichester, and has by her issue, living, the Hon. Edward -Henry Stuart Bligh, Lord Clifton, who was born in 1851; the Hon. Ivo -Francis Walter Bligh, born 1859; the Hon. Arthur Frederick Pelham -Bligh, born 1865; the Lady Edith Louisa Mary, born 1853; the Lady -Kathleen Susan Emma, born 1854; the Lady Alice Isabella Harriet, born -1860; the Lady Mary Rose Florence, born 1868; and the Lady Constance -Violet Lucy, born in 1869. His lordship is a Deputy Lieutenant of the -county of Kent; Hereditary High Steward of Gravesend with Milton; and -Lieutenant-Colonel Commandant of the West Kent Yeomanry Cavalry. He is -patron of the living of Cobham. He has, besides Cobham Hall, a seat in -Ireland, Clifton Lodge, Athboy, co. Meath, and a town residence. - -The arms of the Earl of Darnley are:—_Azure_, a griffin segreant, -_or_, between three crescents, _argent_. Crest:—A griffin’s head, -erased, _or_, Supporters:—Two griffins, wings elevated, _or_, ducally -collared and chained, _azure_. Motto:—“_Finem Respice_.” - -Such is a brief history of the several noble families through whom the -mansion, demesne, and estates of Cobham have passed. - -[Illustration: _The Lodge._] - -The Hall is backed by a noble park, amply stocked with deer, and -containing trees of great variety and immense size, some of them -measuring above thirty feet in circumference. It comprises 1,800 -acres, and encloses an area of about seven miles. The old approach, -long disused, was through an avenue of lime trees, consisting of four -rows, and extending more than half a mile in length from the dependent -village. The present entrance is through a red-brick, turreted -gateway, adjacent to which is the “LODGE.” On nearing the house, the -eye encounters a cedar of magnificent growth, and to the left are the -gardens, into which there are two terrace-walks—one from the great -gate, and another, at a considerable elevation, from the suite of -apartments which constitute the first floor. The view we have given -is the more ancient portion of the venerable edifice—the north wing, -with which the south wing mainly corresponds. They are, however, -connected by a centre, built by Inigo Jones; and this centre, which -consists of a façade with Corinthian pilasters, is out of keeping with -the quaint gables, octagonal turrets, ornamental doorways, carved -cornices, projecting mullioned windows, and elaborated chimneys, -which distinguish the earlier dwelling of the Cobhams. The structure -thus assumes the form of a half H, the wings being terminated by -octagonal towers; a sunken wall in front encloses a quadrangular -lawn, ornamented with vases and statues. The wings exhibit the dates -1582 and 1594, and retain all the characteristics of the later -Tudor style; although, as we have intimated, it has been materially -corrupted by the several alterations to which, from time to time, -the mansion has been subjected. The ordinary entrance is through a -vaulted passage, “built in the form of a Gothic cloister by James -Wyatt,” which contains the arms of the Cobhams, with the date 1587. -This passage leads to the grand staircase, and the several apartments -on the ground-floor. The first to which strangers are conducted is -the dining-hall, which contains an elaborately carved black-and-white -marble chimney-piece, having quaint and curious figures and buildings, -and a series of portraits of rare excellence. The Music-room, one of -the suite added to the ancient building, affords a brilliant contrast -to the sombre and solid character of the dining-room. It contains -but one picture—full-length portraits of the Lords John and Bernard -Stuart, sons of the Duke of Lennox—a _chef-d’œvre_ of Vandyke. The -chimney-piece is formed of the purest white marble, sculptured in -bas-relief after Guido’s “Aurora,” by the elder Westmacott, with fauns -life-size, as supporters. The ceiling was designed by Inigo Jones; -it is divided into several square and circular compartments, with a -deep oval in the centre, “superbly gilt and enriched by appropriate -ornaments, among which are twelve pendant coronets.” The apartment is -in length 50 feet, in breadth 36 feet, and height 32 feet! and although -superbly ornamented and richly gilt—the pillars of the Composite -order, being of white marble, and the lining of scagliola—the whole is -in fine harmony with the grace and chasteness of the design. There are -two galleries, one of which contains an organ. The vestibule is a small -chamber, decorated with valuable vases of verd-antique. The Library -contains a series of portraits of eminent literary men—Bolingbroke, -Sidney, Shakespere, Swift, and others; none of them, however, advance -strong claims to originality. On the walls of the Great Staircase are -hung several large pictures, which may bear examination before the -gallery is entered. - -The grand staircase conducts, first to the Portrait Gallery, and -next to the Picture Gallery. The walls of the former are hung with -portraits, among which are many of exceeding interest, including those -of heroes, statesmen, kings and queens, church reformers, and poets, -mingled without regard to date or order. At the end of this gallery -are, branching to the right and left, the private apartments of the -family; and in a room opening out of the west end of the Picture -Gallery, Queen Elizabeth is reported to have slept when she honoured -the Lord Cobham with a visit during her progress through Kent. In the -centre of the ancient ceiling are still preserved her arms, with the -date, 1599. The Picture Gallery is the great “show-room” of the house. -It is a noble apartment, the walls of which are covered with works -of Art, of rare value and unsurpassed excellence, the productions of -nearly all the great masters of Italy—including admirable examples -of Guido, Titian, Salvator Rosa, Rubens, Raphael, Spagnoletto, P. -Veronese, Giorgione, N. Poussin, and Guercino. - -Every part of the venerable edifice contains, indeed, some object of -interest. The rooms, and halls, and galleries are thronged with rare -and beautiful works of Art; a series of perfect vases from Herculaneum -lie on the tables of the Picture Gallery; several antique busts and -statues line the hall; a magnificent bath, of red Egyptian granite, -is placed in the entrance passage; and the furniture and interior -decorations are all of corresponding excellence and beauty. - -Although necessarily limited in our description of Cobham Hall, we -have sufficiently shown the rare treat a visit to it will afford those -who, “in populous city pent,” desire to convert occasional holidays -into contributions to intellectual enjoyment. The Hall and its contents -will amply repay examination; and the noble park is full of natural -treasures—thronged with deer, singularly abundant in singing birds, -and containing trees unsurpassed in magnificent size and graceful -proportions. A group of these trees, known as “the Three Sisters” -(why we cannot say), we have engraved. One of the walks conducts to -a hillock, from the summit of which there is a splendid prospect of -the adjacent country, commanding views of the Thames and Medway, and -taking in the venerable castle, cathedral, and town of Rochester, the -dockyards at Sheerness, and the whole course of the great English river -to its mouth at the Nore. The pedestrian, pursuing this route, will -pass the Mausoleum, an elegant structure, built conformably with the -will of the third Earl of Darnley, and designed for the sepulture of -his family. It was never consecrated. - -But Cobham has other objects of interest: the venerable Church, and -no less venerable “College.” The “CHURCH,” dedicated to St. Mary -Magdalen, stands upon elevated ground at the entrance of the village. -It consists of a nave, aisles, and chancel, with an embattled tower, -entered by an antique porch. The tower is obviously of a more recent -date than the chancel; the former is very ancient. As in many of the -Kentish churches, the walls were formerly painted in fresco, of which -evidence may be easily obtained by those who examine them narrowly; -the steps of the altar are paved with encaustic tiles, of about the -period of Edward III., of various patterns, but most of them containing -the _fleur-de-lis_. The whole aspect of the place indeed supplies -indubitable proof of very remote antiquity. It has been recently -restored, but with sound judgment and skill, by the accomplished -architect, Sir Gilbert Scott, R.A. - -[Illustration: _Interior of the Church._] - -The roof of huge oak rafters, the Gothic arches, the brasses, broken -and entire, which cover the floor, the quaint monuments let into the -walls, the delicately-sculptured piscina, the sedilia of carved stone, -the singular font, the rude vestry-room with its massive oak chest, the -Scripture passages painted on the walls, all bespeak the antiquity of -the building. - -“Nearly in the centre is the still beautiful tomb of Sir Thomas Broke, -the Lady Joan, and their ten sons and four daughters. It is of white -marble, over which, upon a black slab, lie the effigies of the knight -and dame. On either side are those of five of their sons, kneeling, and -wearing tabards, with their swords girded on. The figures of the four -daughters are carved on the east and west ends of the superb monument. -It bears the date 1561, under the arms of the Brokes quartered with -those of the Cobhams. - -“On the floor of the chancel are the famous ‘Cobham Brasses,’ the most -perfect and most numerous assemblage now existing in the kingdom. The -series consists of thirteen, recording the memory of the Cobhams and -Brokes, ‘lords and barons of this manor of Cobham, with many of their -kindred, who for many descents did flourish in honourable reputation.’ -Of the thirteen, eight are in honour of the knights, and five are -memorials of the dames. These brasses, one and all, deserve the most -careful examination and notice. The earliest is to the memory of _John -de Cobham_, the first Knight Banneret, and Constable of Rochester; -he is dressed in a shirt of mail: round his waist is a rich girdle, -sustaining a long sword. Eight lines of Norman French are inscribed -round the verge of the slab. The others are to _Maude, Lady Cobham_ -(1370), probably wife of Baron Cobham, who was Warden of the Cinque -Ports in the time of Edward III., who is represented with a dog at her -feet. Over her head are the words ‘Icy gist dame Maude de Cobham.’ -_Maude, Lady Cobham_ (c. 1385) supposed to have been the wife of Thomas -de Cobham. She has a flounce of fur at the bottom of her dress. There -are the remains of a mutilated canopy over her, and a fragment of -inscription says, ‘Icy gist dame Maude de Cobehm qe....’ _Margaret, -Lady Cobham_ (1385), wife of John de Cobham, the founder of Cobham -College. This is a remarkably beautiful canopied brass; the finial of -the canopy bearing a figure of the Virgin and Child. Around the brass -is the inscription, ‘Isy gist dame Margarete de Cobeham, iadiis fille -a noble en le Comte de Deuenischire; feme le sire de Cobeham, foundour -de ... morust le secounde in dimoys D’agust lan de grace, MCCCLXXXV., -lalme de qy deux eut mercy. Amen.’ _Joan, Lady Cobham_ (c. 1320), who -was daughter of John, Lord Beauchamp of Stoke-under-Hamden, and first -wife of Sir John de Cobham. The inscription, in Longobardic capitals, -is:— - - “‘Dame Jone de Kobeham gist isi - Deus de sa alme eit merci - Kike pur le Alme Priera - Quaraunte jours de pardoun avera.’” - -_Reginald de Cobham_ (c. 1420), an ecclesiastic, under a triple canopy, -the shaft and some other portions being lost. _Sir Thomas de Cobham_, a -knight in mixed armour, 1367. - -[Illustration: _The College Porch._] - -_Ralph de Cobham_, 1405, a semi-effigy in armour, holding in his hands -a tablet, bearing the inscription in old English characters. _John de -Cobham_, the founder of the College, bearing in his hands the model -of a church. _John Broke_ and _Lady Margaret_ his wife, under a rich -canopy with pendants and other ornaments, with triangular compartments, -containing circles with shields, one of which bears the crown of -thorns, and the other the five wounds; between the pinnacles, in the -centre, is a curious representation of the Trinity, in which the Deity -is delineated with a triple crown, and the Holy Spirit has a human -face. The figure of the knight is gone, but that of his lady remains; -and beneath are groups of eight sons and ten daughters. _Sir Reginald -Braybroke_, the second husband of Joan, Lady Cobham. _Sir Nicholas -Hauberk_, her third husband. _Joan de Cobham_: she died, as appears -from the inscription, ‘on the day of St. Hilary the Bishop, A.D. -1433.’ At her feet are six sons and four daughters; and surrounding -her, are six escutcheons of the Cobham arms and alliances. _Sir Thomas -Broke_ and one of his three wives. Below them are seven sons and five -daughters. Sir Thomas died 1529.” - -“The COLLEGE of Cobham” is now only a collection of almshouses, to -which presentations are made—of old people, without restriction to -either sex—as vacancies occur, by the parish and ten other parishes -adjacent. It lies immediately south of the church, and is entered -by a small Gothic gateway. Its occupants are twenty aged men and -women, who have each a little dwelling, with a neat garden and an -allowance monthly, sufficient to secure the necessaries of life. It -is a quadrangular building, of stone, measuring about 60 feet by 50; -and contains a large hall, with painted windows, a roof of blackened -rafters, an old oak screen, and a fire-place of cut stone. The history -of the college is curious and interesting. A college or chantry was -originally founded here, about the year 1362, by John de Cobham, thence -called “the founder,” in the reign of Edward III. In the Church is a -brass to the memory of William Tanner, Master of the College, who died -in 1418. The brass consists of a half-length of the master, in clerical -costume, with the inscription in black letter:—“Hic jacet Willmus -Tannere qui prim obiit magister istuis Collegii xxii. die mensis -Junii Anno Dni. M°CCCC°XVIII. cujus anime propicietur deus Amen.” -Towards the end of the reign of Elizabeth it was rebuilt, as appears -by a record—“finished in September 1598”—inscribed over the south -portal, under the arms and alliances of the Brokes, Lords Cobham. The -endowments of the old foundation were ample, and were, with the college -itself, bestowed by Henry VIII., at the dissolution, upon George, Lord -Cobham, who had the “king’s roiall assent and licence by hys grace’s -word, with any manner of letters patent or other writings, to purchase -and receyve to his heires for ever, of the late master and brethren, of -the college or chauntry of Cobham, in the countie of Kent, now being -utterly dissolved, the scite of the same colledge or chauntry, and al -and singular their heridaments and possessions, as well temporall as -ecclesiasticall, wheresoever they lay, or were, within the realm of -England.” The walls of the ancient college may be clearly traced, and a -small portion still endures, comparatively uninjured. It is a gateway, -surmounted by the arms of the Cobhams, luxuriantly overgrown with ivy, -forming a fine example of picturesque antiquity. The present structure -was erected pursuant to the will of Sir William Broke, Lord Cobham, -who devised “all those edifices, ruined buildings, soil and ground, -with the appurtenances which some time belonged to the late suppressed -college for the use of the ‘new’ college.” By an act of the 39th of -Elizabeth, the wardens of Rochester Bridge for the time being were made -a body corporate, and declared perpetual presidents of the new college, -the government of which they retain to this day. - -[Illustration: _The College._] - -The dependent village of Cobham is one of the neatest and most -pleasant of the fair villages of Kent. There are, no doubt, many -nobler and more perfect examples of the domestic architecture of “old” -England than is supplied by Cobham Hall, but it would be difficult to -direct attention to any that affords so rich a recompense at so small -a cost; taking into account its genuine remains of antiquity, the -magnificent works of Art that decorate its walls, its easy access from -the metropolis, and the primitive character and surpassing beauty of -the locality in which it is situated. - - - - -MOUNT EDGCUMBE. - - -[Illustration] - -WE cannot say in what month these details will be read, but they are -written on a morning of May, in one of the loveliest spots of the -fairest of our English shires: a mild and genial day of mid-spring— - - “The soote season that bud and blome forth brings;” - -when the apple orchards—prides of Devon—are in full blossom; the -hawthorns have donned their snow-white draperies; the gorse its garment -of gold; and every hedgerow is rich in the hundred hues of flowers -that herald summer: while all the hill-slopes and meadows, “in verdure -clad,” seem rejoicing over the prospective abundance that Nature -promises to healthy toil. We have passed through the fifty-three miles -that separate Exeter from Plymouth. It would be hard to find in any -part of the world, in equal space, a road so lavishly endowed with -gifts of the fertile and the beautiful. Part of the way by the open -sea, then by estuaries, then by the banks of broad rivers, then by -narrow and rapid streams, then under the shadows of tree-clad hills, -green from base to summit, with frequent views of prosperous towns and -happy villages, with venerable churches continually showing their tall -spires above the tree-tops—in thoroughly rural England, far from the -tall chimneys and dense atmosphere that betoken manufactures and their -results—the railway runs through many scenes of surpassing loveliness, -any one of which might tempt the traveller who is in search of either -health or pleasure, with assurance of an ample supply of both. - -The GREAT WESTERN conveys us from Paddington to Exeter. We leave -Exeter by the South Devon Railway (proverbially well managed, in -all respects): it may take us to Penzance; but its great station is -midway, at Plymouth, where has been recently erected for the especial -accommodation of railway travellers and tourists, an admirable -hotel (the Duke of Cornwall—there is none more comfortable in the -kingdom).[11] Here we arrest the tourist, in order to visit the -promontory of Mount Edgcumbe, that occupies one side of the famous -harbour. - -First, however, let us glance at the several points of interest that -claim our attention _en route_. Leaving Exeter and its many attractions -other than its renowned Cathedral, we first reach the marine village of -Starcross, opposite to which are old Topsham (full of memories of our -own boyhood, when “a stranger yet to pain”), and young Exmouth; stately -villas and pretty cottages occupy slopes of the hill range. Then, at -Dawlish, a graceful village, we front the sea, and pass some singular -rocks of red sandstone, that stand like sentinels along the shore—and -here, it may be well to note, some extraordinary inroads upon the -sea-wall of the railway have lately been made by the ocean—Teignmouth -and Shaldon come next, towns on both sides of the river Teign, -connected by a narrow wooden bridge more than a quarter of a mile in -length. We next arrive at Newton Junction, where a railway branch -conducts to Torquay and Dartmouth; soon afterwards Totnes is reached, -an old town on the Dart, one of the most beautiful of all the rivers in -Devonshire, whence a steamboat issues daily to visit Dartmouth. Here -we have left the sea, and have only in view rich pasture land—ever -green, the hills tree-clad to their topmost heights. Passing Brent and -Kingsbridge Stations, Ivy Bridge next comes in sight, a deep dell, over -which a viaduct passes: a dell of singular beauty, one of the finest in -all Devonshire. Soon we pass Cornwood and Plympton,—the latter famous -as the birthplace of Sir Joshua Reynolds,—and, skirting the Plym, -enter Plymouth. - -The eye is at once arrested by a sylvan spot, running out into the sea, -beyond the docks, and their manifold adjuncts; a mass of greenery, -unbroken except by trees of varied foliage, that rise continually in -groups, from all parts of the promontory that, thus seen, seems an -island. - -The admiral of the “Invincible” Armada had taste, at least, in fixing -upon Mount Edgcumbe as his dwelling-place, when settled in the country -he was “about” to conquer. God’s providence gave the invader a -different locality; and the beautiful domain continues to be, as it was -then, the home of the family of the Edgcumbes, now earls of “that ilk.” - -Mount Edgcumbe is in Cornwall; but until recently it was a part of -Devonshire; the Act of Parliament that removed it from one county to -the other dating no further back than 1854. But Acts of Parliament have -done other wonders in this district, for it was only in 1824 that an -act was passed giving to the town of “Plymouth Dock,”—or, as it was -then generally called, “Dock,”—the new and more pretentious name which -it now holds of _Devonport_. The “Mount” is about half a mile across -the bay which divides it from the now “united” towns of Devonport, -Stonehouse, and Plymouth, which, together, contain a population of -150,000 “souls.” From any of the adjacent heights, especially the Hoe -at Plymouth, we obtain a glorious view of the road-stead—fortified -everywhere. In mid-distance is seen the Breakwater, one of the -marvels of engineering art; and far off, yet within view, the famous -lighthouse—the Eddystone, some fourteen miles from the nearest shore. -Between these objects and the port are, at all times, many ships of the -navy: they rule the waves of ocean in the seas that encircle earth; -and Plymouth will be especially glorified when the triumphs of British -sailors, from the admiral to the able seaman, supply subjects of -discourse. - -The Breakwater, one of the most gigantic works in the kingdom, lies in -Plymouth Sound, where it forms a line between Bovisand Bay on the east, -and Cawsand Bay on the west. It is about three miles from Plymouth, -and is a mile in length. In form it is a straight line, with a kant or -arm at each end, branching off towards the shore. At its eastern end -a clear passage between it and the Bovisand shore of about a mile in -width is left for ships, while at the western end the passage is about -a mile and a half in width. The idea of the Breakwater originated with -Earl St. Vincent in 1806, and Mr. Rennie and Mr. Whidbey surveyed the -Sound for the purpose. In 1811 the plan was decided upon. The first -stone was deposited on the birthday of the Prince Regent (afterwards -George IV.), 1812. In 1817, and again in 1824, much damage was done -to the progressing work. The quantity of stone used in its formation -is estimated at about four millions of tons, exclusive of about -two millions and a half of tons of granite and other stones used -for paving, facings, &c. At the east end is a beacon, and at the -west end a lighthouse 60 feet high. The spirited engraving of this -gigantic undertaking, which we here give, is taken from Mr. Jewitt’s -recently published “History of Plymouth,” where it forms one of many -illustrations. The view, as will be seen, is a kind of bird’s-eye, and -shows the form of the Breakwater, with its new central fort and its -lighthouse and beacon. - -[Illustration: _Plymouth Breakwater._] - -The Eddystone Lighthouse, in the English Channel, is fourteen miles -from Plymouth, from which town its light is distinctly visible under -favourable atmospheric circumstances. It is erected on one of the -Eddystone rocks, probably so called from the eddies, or whirls, which -surround them. The rocks themselves are completely covered at high -tide. The first attempt to erect a lighthouse on these rocks was made -by Mr. Winstanley in 1696. This was completed in about four years, -but was washed away in a hurricane. In 1706 a new lighthouse, for -which an Act of Parliament had been passed, was begun to be erected -by Mr. John Rudyerd, silk mercer, of London, who was of the famous -family of Rudyerd, of Rudyerd, in the county of Stafford, and a man -of considerable engineering and architectural skill. He, wishing to -profit by experience, determined that as the former lighthouse had -been angular, his should be round, and that as it was mainly of stone -his should be of wood. In 1709 Rudyerd’s lighthouse was completed, and -gave promise of being a great success. Years passed on, storms rose, -the waves dashed over and around it wildly, but it remained firm and -unshaken even through the dreadful tempest of 1744. What wind and -water could not do, was, however, soon after fearfully accomplished -by fire—the lighthouse being burned down in 1755. Immediately after -this Mr. Smeaton undertook the task of erecting a new lighthouse -of stone. This, the present Eddystone Lighthouse, was commenced in -1756 and completed in 1759. In construction it is the most complete -example of architectural and engineering skill. The lower part is -solid throughout, being literally as firm as the rock itself, on which -it is immovably and permanently fixed. The stones are all dovetailed -together, so that, in reality, it becomes but one stone throughout. In -the upper portion, which is equally strong, the rooms and staircase -take up the hollow centre. The lantern is octagonal. This building, -which has given to the name of Smeaton an imperishable fame, bears on -its granite cornice the truly appropriate inscription:—“Except the -Lord build the house, they labour in vain that build it. Psalm cxxvii. -1;” and over the lantern, “24th August, 1759. Laus Deo.” Of this we -give an engraving on our initial letter on page 54. - -But we have a theme that demands all the space we can give—MOUNT -EDGCUMBE, and that other seat of the ancient family, COTHELE. - -For Mount Edgcumbe art has done little; but it was here unnecessary -for art to do much: like some women, whose charms of expression and -perfect “loveliness” do not seem to require beauty, this delicious -peninsula has been so richly gifted by Nature, that, perhaps, efforts -to enhance its attractions might have lessened instead of augmenting -them. Hill and dell, heights and hollows, pasture slopes and rugged -hillocks, succeed each other with a delicious harmony we have rarely -seen elsewhere. On one side of the bay are the three busy towns, -active with energetic life; on another are the cultivated hill-sides -of productive Devon; on another is the open sea, with the two objects -we have noted—the Breakwater and the marvellous Eddystone. Everywhere -Nature has had its own sweet will; even the laurel hedges have risen -thirty feet in height; the lime trees grow as if they had never been -trimmed; while the slopes, from the hill-heights to the sea-rocks, -appear as sheen as if the scythe had been perpetually smoothing them. -Here and there, pretty and pleasant shelters have been provided for -visitors who throng hither for health and relaxation;[12] “look -out” seats are provided on many of the hill-tops; and the deer and -the rabbits have free pasturage in the noble Park that occupies a -space of many hundred acres between the harbour and the sea. Nor may -we forget the “defences” of the peninsula: the battery that would -here, as elsewhere, “keep the foreigner from fooling us,” and that -battery called “the Salute,” in which the huge “Armstrongs” are -hidden, but where may be seen, by all on-lookers, twenty-one mounted -cannon—“prizes” from ships of “the enemy” taken during the war with -France. - -[Illustration: _Mount Edgcumbe, from Stonehouse Pier._] - -All, therefore, is not left to Nature. Nor must we forget the gardens: -prettily laid out; enriched by rare trees, with vases and statues -judiciously intermixed; and, especially, a grove of orange trees, with -several summer-houses in pleasant nooks, where cedars, magnolias, cork -trees, and other trees, supply shade and shelter from rain and sun. -Art has here been aiding Nature, but its influence is felt rather than -seen; those to whom the “grounds” owe much seem to have been ever -mindful that their profuse and natural luxuriance needed few checks -of the pruner and trainer. The name of one of these benefactors is -recorded—a votive urn contains a tablet to the memory of that countess -“whose taste embellished these retreats, herself their brightest -ornament”—Countess Sophia, who could not have found on earth a home -more lovely than that which, in 1806, she was called to leave for one -still more perfect and more beautiful. - -The great charm of Mount Edgcumbe, however, consists in the five-mile -drive through the Park, along a road that everywhere skirts the harbour -or the sea. It is perpetual hill and dell; a mimic ruin, intended -as a view tower, and answering its purpose well, is the only object -remarkable on the higher grounds, if we except the church—Maker -Church—neither venerable nor picturesque, but containing many -interesting memorials of the Edgcumbe family;[13] but down in the dales -(in nearly all of them) are the pretty “lodges,” where the keepers and -gardeners reside, and where simple “refreshments” of milk and hot water -are provided for the crowds who are weekly visitors to the domain. One -of these we have pictured on page 64. - -Lady Emma’s cottage—Lady Emma being the first Countess of Mount -Edgcumbe, wife of George, first Baron and Earl of that title—is -charmingly situated in one of the most lovely of the dells of this -domain, surrounded by soft grassy turf, and overhung by lofty trees; -the cottage itself is completely embosomed in creeping plants, and -has a rustic verandah exquisitely decorated with fir-cones and other -natural productions, so disposed as to give considerable richness to -the effect of the building. The little valley in which it stands, -hollowed out with great regularity by Nature, and sloping gently down -towards the sea, is one of the sweetest spots on the whole estate. The -footway winds round the upper part of the valley, and at the head of -the dell is a spacious alcove composed of Gothic fragments, called the -“Ruined Chapel,” from which a glorious view is obtained. - -In the grounds the most famous points for the attraction of visitors -are “Thomson’s Seat;” the “Temple of Milton;” a recess called the -“Amphitheatre;” a charming alcove, the “White Seat,” which commands -a splendid prospect; “the Arch,” which overlooks the Sound; and the -“zig-zag walks,” which lead down along the cliffs and through the -woods, and are the favourite resorts of visitors. - -[Illustration: _The Mansion._] - -The gardens are three in number, and called respectively the “Italian,” -the “French,” and the “English” gardens, in each of which the special -characteristics of planting and arrangement of those countries are -carried out—the conservatories, fountains, orangeries, terraces, etc., -being, in each instance, built in accordance with the tastes of the -three kingdoms. - -Indeed, it is difficult to convey an idea of the grandeur, beauty, -and interest of the views from every portion of the Park; they are -perpetually varied as the eye turns from sea to shore, and from shore -to sea; each one of them enhanced by ships at anchor or in full sail; -while boats of all forms and sizes are continually passing to and fro. -One of the most prominent objects from the park is Drake’s Island; an -island in mid-channel between Plymouth and Mount Edgcumbe; it appears -on the map, however, as St. Nicholas Island, its original name, but it -has, in later times, been occasionally called Drake’s Island, after -the great admiral, Sir Francis Drake—one of the many sea-heroes of -whom Plymouth is justly proud. This island is connected with the shore -at Mount Edgcumbe by a submarine ridge of rocks, called the “Bridge,” -which renders the passage, on that side, dangerous to ships of even -moderate burthen. On the island was formerly an ancient chapel, -dedicated to St. Michael, which was converted in the fifteenth century -into a bulwark. The island contains about three acres of land, and is -strongly fortified. - -We turn our backs on the Breakwater and distant Eddystone, to mark the -steamer passing under the most remarkable effort of engineering skill -in England—one of the legacies of Brunel—the “Albert Bridge” that -crosses the Tamar from Devonshire into Cornwall; and long to visit -(which we may easily do, for steam-boats run daily up it in summer) -the beautiful river Tamar and its grand tributary, the Tavy. A drive -of a mile, and before us is a continuation of the promontory, still -charming; and a little farther on, but across the river Lynher—and -adjacent to the ancient borough of St. Germans, with its venerable -church, once the cathedral of the See of Cornwall—is Port Eliot, the -residence of the noble family of Eliot, Earls of St. Germans. In a -word, a hundred points of deep and exciting interest, picturesquely -beautiful and historically interesting, may be seen and “taken note -of,” from the several points to which a drive through the Park conducts. - -We give an engraving of the mansion. Parts of it are as old as the -reign of Henry VIII., but its outward signs of remote age are few; it -seems built for comfort; it is thoroughly a domestic house; the rooms -are neither large, lofty, nor stately; but all of them are made to live -in—so many parts of a home. We may except the Great Hall, however; -that is “grand.” There is a minstrels’ gallery, and it is often used -for music. The house is square in general form, and originally had -a circular tower at each angle; these, however, have been rebuilt -of an octagonal form, and additions have been carried in different -directions. The front faces down a grassy slope to the sea at Cremill, -and thus a charming prospect is always before its windows; the rooms -are full of family and historic portraits: some of them by the great -old masters, many by Sir Joshua Reynolds, “dear Knight of Plympton,” -while ten or twelve Vanderveldes grace the several apartments. Of -these some are stated to have been painted by the artist, Vandervelde -himself, at Mount Edgcumbe. Of one, which formed the subject of -correspondence between Sir Richard Edgcumbe and the artist, the -original and amended sketches hang beside the picture. The portraits -by Sir Joshua Reynolds are of individuals of three generations, and -those by Lely are in his best style. Among the national pictures are -full-length and other portraits of Charles I., Charles II., James II., -Prince Rupert, William III., the Duke of Monmouth, and others. - -It is needless to add that delicious views are obtained from the -windows of all the leading chambers, not only on the upper but on -the ground floors, as well as from the several terraces by which the -dwelling is, on all sides, environed—occupying as it does an elevation -on the side of one of the hill slopes. - -Before we visit COTHELE—the other mansion of the Mount-Edgcumbes—we -give some account of the ancient and long-honoured family, who have -been their lords for many hundred years. - -The family of Edgcumbe, or Edgcomb, is one of the most ancient and -venerable in the county of Devon, the name being derived from their -original possession of Eggescomb, Egecomb, or Edgcombe (now called -Lower Edgcumbe), in the parish of Milton Abbots, in that county. From -this family and this place, the noble family of the Earls of Mount -Edgcumbe is descended as a younger branch. - -In 1292 Richard Edgcumbe was Lord of Edgcumbe, in Milton Abbots, and -he was direct ancestor, both of the present representative of the main -line, who is twentieth in direct lineal descent, and of the present -ennobled family, as well as of the branches settled in Kent and -elsewhere. - -In the reign of Edward III., William de Eggescombe, or Edgcombe, second -son of the House of Edgcumbe, having married Hilaria, sole daughter and -heiress of William de Cothele, of Cothele, or Coteel, in the parish -of Calstock, in Cornwall, a fine old Cornish family, became possessed -of Cothele and the other estates, and removed into Cornwall. Here, at -Cothele, he and his descendants resided for several generations. - -Richard Edgcumbe, great grandson of William de Edgcumbe and Hilaria -de Cothele, is said to have built the greater part of the grand -old residence of Cothele as it remains at the present day: of this -singular mansion we shall furnish some details. At Bosworth Richard -Edgcumbe received the honour of knighthood from his victorious -leader, Henry VII., was made comptroller of his household, and one -of his Privy Council, and had the castle and lordship of Totnes, in -Devonshire—forfeited to the crown on the attainder of John Lord Zouch -for high treason—conferred upon him by that monarch, with many other -honours and dignities, and large extents of land, including those of -Sir Henry Bodrugan, who had likewise been attainted for high treason. -He also held, as he had previously done, the offices of Recorder, and -Constable of the castle of Launceston, and Constable of Hertford, &c. -In 1488 Sir Richard was sent into Ireland, as Lord Deputy, by his royal -master, to take the oaths of allegiance of the Irish people, embarking -at Mounts Bay in the _Anne of Fowey_, and attended by other ships, -and a retinue of five hundred men. He died in 1489, at Morlaix, while -holding the appointment of ambassador to France. He married Joan, -daughter of Thomas Tremaine of Collacombe, by whom he had issue. - -[Illustration: _Lady Emma’s Cottage._] - -Of Sir Richard Edgcumbe, Fuller tells a romantic story. He says he was -“memorable in his generation for being zealous in the cause of Henry, -Earl of Richmond, afterwards King Henry VII. He was, in the time of -Richard III., so hotly pursued, and narrowly searched for, that he -was forced to hide himself in his wood, at his house, in Cuttail, in -Cornwall. Here extremity taught him a suddain policy, to put a stone -in his capp and tumble the same into the water, whilst these rangers -were fast at his heels, who, looking down after the noise, and seeing -the cap swimming therein, supposed that hee had desperately drowned -himself, and deluded by this honest fraud, gave over their further -pursuit, leaving him at liberty to shift over into Brittany. Nor was -his gratitude less than his ingenuity, who, in remembranse of his -delivery, after his return built a chappel (which still remains) in -the plase where he lurked, and lived in great repute with prince and -people.” After thus cleverly misleading his pursuers, Richard Edgcumbe -crossed the Channel in a small ship, to the Earl of Richmond, in -Brittany, with whom he afterwards returned to England, and was engaged -in the battle of Bosworth Field, in Leicestershire, where King Richard -was killed. - -[Illustration: _In the Gardens._] - -His son, Piers Edgcumbe, was Sheriff of the county of Devon, 9th, 10th, -and 13th Henry VII. and 2nd Henry VIII. “At the creation of Prince -Arthur he was one of the twenty individuals who were made Knights of -the Cross of St. Andrew.” He, with others, was “appointed to review -and array all men at arms, archers, and others, who were to accompany -Sir Thomas D’Arcy in his expedition against the Moors and infidels.” -He was one of the expedition into France, 5th Henry VIII., and for -his distinguished gallantry at the sieges of Tournay and Thurovenne, -and at the battle of Spurs, he was created a knight-banneret. Sir -Piers Edgcumbe was married twice: first to the daughter and heiress -of Stephen Durnford, by his wife the heiress of Rame; and, second, to -Katherine, daughter of Sir John St. John, and widow of Sir Griffith -Ap Rys, by whom he had no issue. By the first of these marriages, -Sir Piers Edgcumbe acquired the manors and estates of the Durnfords, -including that of West Stonehouse (now Mount Edgcumbe). He had issue -by her, three sons, Richard, John, and James, and three daughters, -Elizabeth, Jane, and Agnes (or Anne). Sir Piers Edgcumbe died in 1539, -and was succeeded as heir by his eldest son, Richard Edgcumbe, who was -knighted in 1536. - -This Sir Richard Edgcumbe built the present family mansion, on a -part of the estate which his father had acquired by marriage with -the heiress of the Durnfords (who had inherited it from the ancient -family of Stonehouse or Stenhouse), and gave to it the name of “Mount -Edgcumbe.” He was Sheriff of Devon 35th Henry VIII. and 1st Queen -Mary. He married first a daughter of Sir John Arundel, by whom he had -no issue; and, second, Winifred Essex, and by her had, besides other -issue, a son, Piers, or Peter, who succeeded him. Sir Richard Edgcumbe, -who kept up a fine establishment, and at one time entertained at Mount -Edgcumbe the English, Spanish, and Netherlands admirals, died in 1561. -Piers (or Peter) Edgcumbe, who was member of Parliament, and was also -Sheriff of Devon 9th Elizabeth, married Margaret, daughter of Sir -Andrew Lutterell, by whom he had five sons and four daughters, and was -succeeded by his eldest son, Richard. - -Piers Edgcumbe died in 1607, and on his tomb his honours are thus set -forth:— - - “Lief Tenant to my Queen long Time - And often for my Shire and Knighte; - My merit did to Creddit clime, - Still bidinge in my Callinge righte; - By Loyalty my faith was tryede, - Peacefull I liv’d, hopeful I diede.” - -His son, Sir Richard Edgcumbe, knighted by James I., was member of -Parliament for Totnes, for Grampound, and for Bossiney; he married -Mary, daughter and heiress of Sir Richard Coteele, or Cottle, of -London, and by her, who died eighteen years before him, had issue, two -sons, Piers and Richard, by the eldest of whom, Piers Edgcumbe, he was -succeeded. This gentleman distinguished himself by his devotion to the -royal cause; he “was a master of languages and sciences, a lover of the -king and church, which he endeavoured to support in the time of the -civil wars to the utmost of his power and fortune.” Sir Alexander Carew -and Major Scawen, for holding connection with Piers Edgcumbe, who held -a colonel’s commission in the king’s army, were beheaded. He married -Mary, daughter of Sir John Glanvil, and died in 1660, being succeeded -by his eldest son, Sir Richard Edgcumbe, who had been knighted during -his father’s lifetime. He was also a member of Parliament. He married -Anne Montague, daughter of Edward, Earl of Sandwich, by whom he had -issue two sons, Piers, who died young and unmarried, and Richard; and -six daughters. He died in 1688. - -To this time, for several generations, it will have been noticed, the -inheritors of the estate alternated, in name, between Piers (or Peter) -and Richard. This succession of name was now broken by the death of -Piers, the eldest son. - -Richard Edgcumbe, soon after coming of age, was chosen M.P. for -Cornwall, and continued to sit for various places until 1742. In 1716 -and 1720 he was one of the Lords Commissioners of the Treasury, and -in 1724 was Vice-Treasurer, and Paymaster of the Taxes, &c. In 1742 -he was created BARON EDGCUMBE of Mount Edgcumbe, and was afterwards -made Chancellor of the Duchy of Lancaster, one of the Privy Council, -and Lord-Lieutenant of Cornwall. His lordship, by his wife Matilda, -daughter of Sir Henry Furnese, had issue, three sons, Richard, Henry -(who died an infant), and George; he died in 1758, and was succeeded -in his title and estates by his eldest son, Richard, second Baron -Edgcumbe, member of Parliament for various places, one of the Lords of -the Admiralty, and afterwards appointed Comptroller of his Majesty’s -Household. He was a man of great talent, and is thus spoken of by -Horace Walpole in his “Royal and Noble Authors:”—“His lordship’s skill -as a draughtsman is said to have been such as might entitle him to -a place in the ‘Anecdotes of English Painting,’ ‘while the ease and -harmony of his poetic compositions give him an authorised introduction -here.’ ... ‘a man of fine parts, great knowledge, and original wit, -who possessed a light and easy vein of poetry; who was calculated by -nature to serve the public, and to charm society; but who unhappily -was a man of pleasure, and left his gay associates a most affecting -example how health, fame, ambition, and everything that may be laudable -in principle or practice, are drawn into and absorbed by that most -destructive of all whirlpools—gaming.’” - -[Illustration: _The Ruin, the Sound, Drake’s Island, &c._] - -His lordship, dying unmarried in 1761, was succeeded by his brother -George as third baron. This nobleman, who had sat in several -parliaments, and held various public offices (among them the -Lord-Lieutenancy of Cornwall), and was Vice-Admiral of the Blue, -married Emma, only daughter and heiress of John Gilbert, Archbishop of -York, by whom he had issue an only son, who succeeded him. His lordship -was, on the 17th February, 1781, created in addition to his title of -Baron Edgcumbe, _Viscount Mount Edgcumbe and Valletort_; and in 1789 he -was further advanced to the dignity of an earl, by the title of _Earl -of Mount Edgcumbe_. Dying in 1795, he was succeeded by his only son, -Richard, as second earl. - -[Illustration: _The Salute Battery._] - -This nobleman, who also held the office of Lord-Lieutenant of -Cornwall, married Lady Sophia Hobart, daughter of John, second Earl of -Buckinghamshire, and by her had issue, two sons, Ernest Augustus, and -George, and two daughters. His lordship died in 1839, and was succeeded -by his eldest son, Ernest Augustus, as third earl, who (born in 1797) -was Aide-de-Camp to the Queen and Colonel of the Cornwall militia. -He married, in 1831, Caroline Augusta, daughter of Rear-Admiral -Charles Feilding, who still survives him, and is an extra Lady of the -Bed-chamber to the Queen. By her his lordship had issue two sons: viz., -William Henry and Charles Ernest, and two daughters, of whom Ernestine -Emma Horatia is still living. The earl died in 1861, and was succeeded -by his eldest son as fourth earl. - -The present nobleman, William Henry Edgcumbe, fourth Earl of Mount -Edgcumbe, Viscount Mount Edgcumbe and Valletort, and Baron Edgcumbe -of Mount Edgcumbe, the noble owner of Mount Edgcumbe and of the large -estates concentrated in the family, was born in 1832. He was educated -at Harrow, and at Christ Church, Oxford, where he became B.A. in 1856, -and sat as M.P. for the borough of Plymouth from 1859 to 1861, when, -by the death of his father, he entered the Upper House. His lordship -is an extra Lord of the Bed-chamber to H.R.H. the Prince of Wales; is -Lieutenant-Colonel of the 2nd battalion and Captain Commandant of the -16th corps of Devon Rifle Volunteers; is a Special Deputy Warden of the -Stannaries, &c., &c. He married in 1858 the Lady Katherine Elizabeth -Hamilton, fourth daughter of the first Duke of Abercorn, and has by her -issue one son, Piers Alexander Hamilton Edgcumbe Viscount Valletort -(born 1865), and three daughters, Victoria Frederica Caroline, born -1859, Albertha Louisa Florence, born 1861, and Edith Hilaria, born -1862. His lordship is patron of five livings; viz., Dittisham and -Beer Ferrers, in Devonshire; and Landrake, Rame, and Millbrook, in -Cornwall. The arms of the Earl of Mount Edgcumbe are—_gules_, on a -bend _ermines_, cottised, _or_, three boars’ heads, _argent_. Crest—a -boar, statant, _argent_, gorged with a leaf of oak, _vert_, fructed, -_or_. Supporters—two greyhounds, _argent_, gutté de poix, and gorged -with a collar, dovetailed, _gules_. - -From the ancient mansion at Mount Edgcumbe we proceed to that which is -still older and more venerable— - -COTHELE.—It is difficult to imagine a house continuing—and but -little changed—to be inhabited by the same family, or, indeed, -inhabited at all, during a period approaching three centuries; yet -that is the case with Cothele, pride of the beautiful river Tamar, and -one of the “gems” of Cornwall;[14] its gigantic oaks, and chestnuts -are obviously so old; but it is requisite to examine the exterior, -and especially the interior, to obtain conviction that the mansion -dates from the reign of the seventh Henry; while its present lord is -the lineal representative of the knight who built it—Sir Richard -Edgcumbe—whose house it is we see, nearly as he left it:[15] but, -also, we may examine the armour he wore, for it still hangs in this -hall; the table at which he feasted (the worm of time only has touched -it); the chairs on which he and his dame sat, the very bed on which -they slept, while the tapestry, woven by fair hands that have been -dust for three centuries, still cover the old walls. Charles I. -certainly slept in one of these rooms, and it demands no great stretch -of imagination to believe that the illustrious Sir Walter Raleigh was -often its honoured guest. We may have been seated in the very chair -in which the great knight recounted his adventurous exploits against -the hated Spaniards under his cousin’s roof-tree. Memories haunt every -room; every hole and corner, so to speak, has a tale to tell of the -long past. - -The house is one of the finest remaining examples of the period to -which it belongs, and, with Haddon Hall, in Derbyshire, which it -closely resembles in general plan and in some of its details, is one -of the best existing specimens of mediæval domestic architecture in -England. Although, doubtless, the greater part of the building was -erected by Sir Richard Edgcumbe, it is evident that the whole was -not built by him, but that he added to, and enlarged the then family -residence of the Cotheles, many portions of which exist at the present -time.[16] The buildings surround two court-yards, or quadrangles, the -entrance being surmounted by an embattled tower; the main buildings and -large tower are also embattled. - -The banqueting-hall is a noble apartment, 42 feet long by 22 feet wide. -It has a remarkably fine timber roof, with intersecting arches in its -compartments. At the upper end, to the left, the lord’s table stood -beneath the bayed window, and opposite to it a doorway leads to the -principal staircase. At the bottom of the hall are three doorways, one -of which led to the great kitchen, and the other two to the buttery and -the cellar. On the walls are suits of armour, helmets, breastplates, -warders’ horns, gauntlets, matchlocks, cross-bows, shields, -battle-axes, halberts, pikes, swords, pistols, gisarmes, petronels, and -two-handed swords and spears that may have been - - “Bathed in gore - On the plains of Azincourt.” - -In the windows are the royal arms, the arms and impalements of -Edgcumbe, Cothele, Holland, Tremaine, Trenchard, Durnford, Rame, -Cotterell, Raleigh (for Sir Walter Raleigh’s grandmother was Elizabeth, -daughter of Sir Richard Edgcumbe of Cothele), Trevanion (Sir William -Trevanion married another daughter of Sir Richard Edgcumbe, and fought -by his side at Bosworth Field, and accompanied him in his pursuit of -the mutual enemy, Sir Henry Bodrugan), Carew, of Anthony (of the family -of Carew the historian), St. Maur, Courtenay, Bigbury, Fitzwalter, &c. - -The dining-room is a charming tapestried apartment, with mullioned -windows and a fine old fire-place. The tapestry is highly interesting, -one of the subjects being the story of Eurydice, another Diana and -Apollo, and the others rural scenes, equestrian figures, &c. - -Adjoining the dining-room is an ante-room of surpassing interest. “The -tapestry in this room represents the Sciences, and might be called the -school of Athens, from the similarity of the subject to the celebrated -picture of Raphael.” In this room, as in others, has been collected -together a fine assemblage of old earthenware and other interesting -matters relating to the life of the inmates in times of old. - -The chapel, which is in the corner of the court-yard, contains a pretty -open-work oak screen, and an arched roof at the intersections of -which are carved bosses. The bowl of the original font is preserved. -In the east window, in stained glass, are considerable portions of -full-length figures, probably of saints, but the names do not appear, -while in the upper light is represented the Annunciation. The angel is -red with green wings, and on a label, in black letter, the words “Ave -Maria gracia plena, D̄ns tecum.” The Virgin is on the other side, near -a building resembling a church, with a label also, on which once was -“Ecce ancilla D̄ni; fiat ̄mi s̄cdm verbū-tuū.” In the lower compartment -of the window will be noticed three shields of arms: the first being -Edgcumbe, quartering Tremaine (or Trenchard); the second, first, and -fourth Edgcumbe, second Holland, third Tremaine, impaling first and -fourth Durnford, second Fitzwalter, and third, now blank but probably -originally containing Bigbury; and the third which contained Edgcumbe -and several quarterings, much injured. In the south window are two -female saints, St. Ann and St. Katherine. “An ancient altar-piece has -the date 1589, and in the centre the adoration of the Magi; while on -one door is the portrait of a man with ‘æt suæ 38,’ and on the other -of a female, with ‘æt suæ 28,’ and on each door a shield with _or_, an -arrow, _sable_.” The chapel is entered from the dining-room as well as -from the court-yard and domestic offices. It has a small bell turret. - -The bed-rooms—“the white room,” the “red room,” the “best room,” -“King Charles’s room,” and “Queen Anne’s room”—are all hung with fine -tapestry, and furnished in a style strictly in keeping with the place -itself. The ceiling of the first of these is of geometric design. The -carved furniture in these rooms is of the most interesting character, -and among the decorations are many shields of arms of the Edgcumbes and -their alliances. The tapestry is of the finest character, the furniture -grand as old furniture well can be, the hangings rich in material -and hoary with age, and the ornaments of the most veritable _vertu_ -character—each room in this grand old mansion offers subject-matter -enough for a separate volume. - -[Illustration: _The Mansion._] - -The drawing-room is also a fine tapestried apartment, furnished with -massive ebony chairs, ebony sofa, and ebony carved cabinet, and all -the appliances _en suite_. The kitchen and the other domestic offices -are each and all of the most interesting character, and convey to the -mind a vivid picture of the life of the inmates in days gone by. It -is impossible, indeed, to conceive anything better than Cothele as -an illustration of the home-life of our mediæval ancestors; for the -building, the furniture, and the appliances, as they are to-day, so -were they three hundred years ago. As it was in the days of Henry VII., -so it is in those of Queen Victoria; and so, thanks to the preserving -spirit of the Edgcumbes, it is likely to remain for centuries to come. - -On some of the previous pages mention is made of Sir Richard Edgcumbe’s -escape from his pursuers, and of his founding a chapel on the spot of -his deliverance. This little chapel still stands to mark the spot, -and to bring back to the mind the circumstances of his escape, and of -the discomfiture of his pursuers. The chapel is built on the edge of -the rock overlooking the water, and from the east window the view is -wonderfully grand. In this east window is a figure of St. George in the -centre, with the Annunciation and the Crucifixion on either side. It -also bears the arms of Edgcumbe and Tremaine. In the other windows are -also figures in stained glass, and on the altar is a triptych. Among -other interesting features in this chapel—and they are many—is a -fac-simile of the ancient tomb of Sir Richard Edgcumbe, at Morlaix. - -The grounds are charmingly wild, yet graceful. Nature is in a great -degree left to have her own way; the trees are of magnificent size -(one of them indeed measures 28 feet in girth), ferns and wild flowers -grow in rich luxuriance: every now and then glimpses are obtained of -the beautiful river, and, on the opposite side, of the hill-steeps and -thick woods of Devonshire. A pretty landing-place for boats is among -the most picturesque points in the landscape; a lesser river here flows -into the Tamar; a waterfall adds to the interest of the scene; and a -neat little inn, close to the bank, gives refreshment to the wayfarer; -above all its attractions is to be counted this—it is distant a dozen -miles from a railway, and the shrill whistle never breaks the harmony -of the song-birds, who “cannot help but sing” in every bush, brake, and -tree of the demesne. The scenery on the river in the neighbourhood of -Cothele is extremely beautiful, and in many places thickly overhung by -skirting woods. Danescombe, a deep hollow in the woods, is a charming -spot, as are the Morwell rocks, and many other places. - -We have directed attention to but one of a hundred attractions in -Devonshire and Cornwall: Devonshire is rich in the picturesque at -all seasons; and the wild grandeur of the Cornish coast has for -centuries been a theme of special laudation. Here and there, no doubt, -other countries may supply us with finer examples of the sublime and -beautiful in scenery; but they are to be reached only by sacrifices, -such as the HOME TOURIST is not called upon to make: our own Islands -have been gifted by God with so much that is refreshing as well as -exciting to the eye and mind, that he or she must be fastidious indeed -who fails to be content with the beauties that Nature presents so “near -at hand”—accessible at comparatively easy cost of time, toil, and -money. - -[Illustration: _The Landing Place._] - -Between Exeter and Plymouth there may be a tour for every day of a -month. - -Among the more delightful trips, where all is so beautiful, and -where it is impossible to turn in any direction without finding some -delightful place or some interesting object, may be named as especially -within the reach of visitors, those to Ivy Bridge, with its abundant -charms of hill, dell, wood, and river; to Saltram, the seat of the -Earl of Morley, on the banks of the Laira; to the Beacon and moors of -Brent; to the picturesque and pleasant dingles and combs of Cornwood; -to Plympton, with its historic sites and its pleasant associations; -to Bickleigh and its poetical vale; to Dartmoor, with its gloomy -waste, its wild and romantic “breaks” of scenery, and its endless -antiquities; and to scores of other delicious spots. The trip up the -river Tamar to the Weir-head is one which ought to be taken by every -visitor, embracing, as it does, besides hundreds of other points of -interest, the dockyards, gun-wharf, Keyham steam-yard, Mount Edgcumbe, -Torpoint, Thanckes, Gravesend House, the mouth of the sweet river -Lynher, by which St. Germans is reached; Saltash, whose women are -proverbial for their dexterity and strength in aquatic exercises, and -who often carry off regatta prizes; St. Budeaux, with its conspicuous -church; the junction of the Tavy with the Tamar; Warleigh, Beer Ferris, -and Maristow; Cargreen and Landulph, in whose churchyard Theodore -Palæologus, the last male descendant of the Christian emperors of -Greece, rests in peace; Pentillie Castle, with its romantic love -stories and tales of change of fortune; Cothele, of which we have -spoken; Calstock, with its fine old church situated on a promontory; -Harewood House, the seat of the Trelawneys, and the scene, in Mason’s -_Elfrida_, of the love of Ethelwold and of the misfortunes consequent -on his marriage with the daughter of Ordgar; and the sublime and -beautiful Morwell Rock. - -Staddon Heights, Mount Batten, Penlee Point, Hooe, and many other -places, are within short distances of the Hoe, at Plymouth, and can -be easily reached. Trematon Castle and St. John’s are also near at -hand, and pleasure trips are frequently made in steam-boats round the -Eddystone. - -For those who make a longer stay in South Devon, visits may well be -made to Tavistock, to Totnes, to Berry Pomeroy Castle, to Torquay, -with a long _et cetera_.[17] Besides the trip up the Tamar, there are -other rivers in South Devon whose charms are of a totally different, -but perhaps even more exquisitely beautiful character. Thus the Dart, -the Lynher, the Plym, the Yealm, the Erme, and the Tavy, all present -attractions to the tourist. - -It cannot fail to augment the enjoyment of those who visit this -beautiful county—the fairest, the brightest, and the “greenest” of all -our English shires—to recall the many “worthies” to whom Devonshire -and Cornwall have given birth; men renowned in art, in science, and in -letters: and the gallant men, the “adventurers,” who carried the flag -of England into every country of the world, braving the battle and the -breeze in all the seas that surround earth in the four quarters of the -globe. It is a long list—the names of Drake, of Raleigh, and of Davy; -of Reynolds, Northcote, Haydon, and Eastlake; of Carew, of Hawkins, -and of Gilbert; of Kitto, of Bryant, and of Hawker, being not a tithe -of the eminent men to which this district has given birth—of whom the -western shires are rightly and justly proud. - -Shame be to those who seek in other lands the enjoyment they may find -so abundantly at home—who talk freely of the graces and grandeurs of -far-off countries, and do not blush to acknowledge entire ignorance of -those that bless and beautify their own. - -England, Ireland, Scotland, and Wales, are, each and all, rich in “the -picturesque;” to the artist and art-lover they present attractions -second to none they will find in any country of the Continent: that -is the truest “patriotism,” which inculcates, as a first duty, a full -appreciation of - - “Our own, our native land!” - - - - -ALNWICK CASTLE.[18] - - -[Illustration] - -WITH the single exception of Royal Windsor, ALNWICK CASTLE is second -to none of the mediæval British strongholds which, in our own times, -combine the characteristics of the early fortress and the modern -palace. With its magnificent architectural features, all of them deeply -impressed with the attributes of a baronial castle of the olden time, -and placed in the midst of that famous scene of long-continued strife, -of daring deeds, and of summary retribution, the Northern Border, -Alnwick may truly be said to be an historical monument, standing upon -historic ground. The names of the great barons, in like manner, who -have successively been lords of Alnwick, have been enrolled by English -chroniclers among the foremost ranks of their countrymen, so that their -own biographies, interwoven with the history of their renowned castle, -are written in the annals of England. Then, on the other hand, while in -an extraordinary degree rich as well in relics as in memories of the -past, Alnwick still maintains the unclouded splendour of its ancient -dignity in its present capacity as the residence of an existing ducal -family. Thus, from whatever point of view it may be regarded, Alnwick -Castle must be esteemed as one of the finest and most interesting of -our national edifices, and it also always will establish its claim to a -foremost place among “the stately homes of England.” - -When Nature declined to provide any one of her own emphatic -boundary-lines, such as a mountain-chain or a broad and deep river, -to determine the frontier which should divide England from Scotland, -she left a very delicate and difficult international question to be -adjusted by the rulers of the two adjacent realms, so long as this -single island of Britain should be divided into two distinct, and -by no means necessarily friendly, kingdoms. An artificial line of -demarcation, accordingly, had to be drawn, and was drawn, which was -supposed to be accepted and recognised both to the north and to the -south of it. Here and there, as if to show in the clearest manner -possible the unsatisfactory character of a frontier such as this, to -a tract of country the ominous name of “Debateable Land” was assigned -by common consent. On either side of the frontier-line, again, and -including all the “Debateable Land,” the “Border” stretched far away -to both the north and the south; and, throughout its whole extent, it -formed a decidedly exceptional territory, in which there prevailed -a system of wild laws that were administered after a still wilder -fashion: hence, whatever may have been the state of things between -England and Scotland, and between the two sovereigns and the two -nations, along the Border there flourished a chronic local warfare, -duly distinguished by gallant exploits, desperate enterprises, and -barbarous devastation, with the occasional variety of an expedition of -sufficient magnitude almost to constitute a regular campaign, or the -formal investment, and perhaps the storm and sack, of some important -fortified castle.[19] - -The Borderers appear to have become so accustomed to this kind of life, -that they looked upon it as their proper lot, and after a manner even -regarded it with a kind of grim approval. Among them, doubtless, there -were but too many who were thoroughly in earnest in their devotion to -what may be styled the Border system—men - - “Stout of heart and steady of hand,” - -who, living in the constant expectation of some sudden assault, were -both “good at need,” and ready and resolute at all times to take -advantage to the utmost of every promising opportunity for successfully -and profitably assaulting their hostile neighbours. In order to keep -a check upon this predatory warfare, and to maintain something more -than the semblance of a supreme constituted authority, certain warlike -barons, intrusted with high powers as Lords Wardens, were established -in fortified castles of great strength along the line of the Border, -and in those northern districts of England which adjoined it. Of these -early strongholds one of the proudest and the sternest was the Castle -of Alnwick. - -[Illustration: _Plan of Alnwick Castle._] - -Distant from London, north by west, 313 miles (by railway), Alnwick, -the county-town of Northumberland, is pleasantly situated on high -ground, rising about 200 feet above the sea-level, on the south bank -of the river Aln. From the name of this river, with the addition of -_wick_, a place of human habitation, ALNWICK, always pronounced by its -native inhabitants “Annick,” is evidently derived.[20] - -[Illustration: _Alnwick Castle, from the River Aln._] - -Still remaining but little changed from what it was in times long -passed away, while from the humblest of origins other towns have grown -up and increased until they have attained to great magnitude and -wealth and importance, Alnwick derives its interest from its early -association with our national history—an association blended with the -connection of the town with its castle, and with the great barons, the -lords of that castle. The site of the castle and town of Alnwick is of -a character which necessarily leads to the conclusion, that it must -have been occupied both by a settlement and by some stronghold from a -very remote period; and this opinion is confirmed by the presence of -numerous relics in the immediate neighbourhood, that may be assigned -without hesitation to ages anterior to the Roman settlement in Britain: -the authentic history of Alnwick, however, cannot be carried back -further than the era of the Norman Conquest, and even then for awhile -more than a little of uncertainty overshadows the earliest pages of the -chronicle. There exists no evidence to show that in the year 1066 any -castle was standing at Alnwick; nor have we any knowledge of what lords -may have held the high ground on the southern bank of the Aln during -the Anglo-Saxon rule. - -On Alnwick Moor, and in many places in the neighbourhood, are some -remarkably interesting camps and other earth-works, and also some -barrows, in which various relics have been discovered. In one of these -was found a stone cist, containing a skeleton in the usual contracted -position of Celtic interments; and in another, in a similar cist, -was found a fine food-vessel, ornamented with a lozenge pattern. In -other barrows Celtic remains, including cinerary urns, drinking-cups, -food-vessels, flints, celts, and other implements of stone, bronze -daggers, &c., have been found, and prove incontestably the early -occupation of the site of Alnwick. In the neighbourhood, too, occur -many of those curious remains of antiquity, sculptured stones, bearing -circles and other rude and singular characters, which are supposed to -be inscriptions. - -It may be accepted as probable that the first Norman by whom this -barony was held was Gilbert Tyson, standard-bearer of the Conqueror, -the kind of personage who very naturally would be intrusted with the -charge of a remote and turbulent northern district. His descendants -continued to hold some estates under the lords of Alnwick in the reign -of Edward III., but there is no foundation for the legend that the -barony of Alnwick passed to Yvo de Vesci by his marriage with Alda, -a granddaughter of Gilbert Tyson. Still, by whatever means he may -have acquired possession, Yvo de Vesci was lord of Alnwick about the -year 1096; and he also is the first Norman baron of this barony whose -history, scanty as it is, rises above doubt and speculation. He died -about the year 1134, leaving, without any male issue, an only daughter, -Beatrix, his sole heiress. - -Before we pass on to trace the fortunes of the descendants of Yvo -de Vesci, a brief notice must be taken of a memorable incident which -took place in the immediate neighbourhood of Alnwick before Yvo -himself had become its lord. After the Norman Conquest many of the -Anglo-Saxon nobles found a sympathizing refuge to the north of the -Border, under the protection of Malcolm Caenmore, or “great head,” King -of Scotland, whose queen was an Anglo-Saxon princess, being sister -to Edgar Atheling. Malcolm, in his zeal for the fallen Anglo-Saxon -dynasty, five times made incursions into Northumberland, laid waste -the country far and wide with fire and sword, and carried away almost -the entire adult population as slaves into Scotland. This devastating -warfare was suspended in consequence of a treaty, during the concluding -years of the reign of the Conqueror; but it broke out afresh after -the succession of Rufus, and Malcolm, accompanied by Prince William, -his eldest son, in person led an expedition as far south as Alnwick; -and there, on the 13th of November, 1093, the king himself fell in -an ambuscade, his son at the same time was mortally wounded, and the -Scottish army was dispersed by Earl Robert de Mowbray, the governor -of Bamborough Castle. The body of Malcolm, having rested about thirty -years at Tynemouth, was removed and re-interred at Dunfermline by his -son Alexander. There still remain two fragments of a rude memorial -cross, which, from an early period, has marked the spot assigned by -tradition to the scene of Malcolm’s discomfiture and death; and, in -1774, one of his descendants, Elizabeth, Duchess of Northumberland, -erected on the same spot another cross, designed in accordance with the -debased architectural taste of that period. - -[Illustration: _The Barbican._] - -The one circumstance connected with the career of Yvo de Vesci that -has come down to us is the fact that he began to build the earliest -parts of the existing castle of Alnwick. With the barony, the castle -of Alnwick passed to Eustace Fitz-John by his marriage with Beatrix, -the heiress of Yvo de Vesci. In the hands of this able baron, Alnwick -Castle was “most strongly fortified:” he also founded the monastery of -Alnwick, and in 1157 was succeeded by his eldest son, William, who, in -honour of his mother, assumed the name of De Vesci. In the time of this -baron, another King of Scotland found that the neighbourhood of Alnwick -Castle was no place of safety. In the year 1174 William the Lion, while -besieging the fortress of the De Vescis, was taken prisoner, and the -large army under his command was completely routed, De Vesci himself -taking an active part in the fierce struggle. His descendant, John De -Vesci, who died in 1288, leaving no issue, founded and endowed Hulne -Abbey; and he was the first baron of his house who was summoned by the -king to the parliament by writ, his predecessors having been barons by -tenure. William De Vesci III., one of the claimants of the Scottish -crown, was born in 1245, and succeeded to the barony of Alnwick on the -death of his brother. The last baron of Alnwick of his race, he died in -1297, without legitimate issue, having infeoffed the celebrated Anthony -Bec, Bishop of Durham, with all his lands and his castle of Alnwick, to -hold them in trust for an illegitimate son. But in 1309 the bishop sold -the castle and barony of Alnwick to Henry de Percy; and this conveyance -was confirmed by Edward II. in 1310. - -Deriving, as it would seem, their memorable name from that district -in Normandy in which from an early period, long before the Norman -Conquest of England, their family had been established, the PERCIES -were represented in the ranks of the Conqueror at Hastings by William -de Percy, who assumed the additional name of Le Gernons, or Algernon, -as a personal epithet denoting the mass of hair which he wore about -his face. About 1166, or almost an exact century after the battle of -Hastings, the wealth, dignities, and power of the Percies centred in an -heiress who, perhaps in 1168, married Josceline de Louvain, second son -of the Duke of Brabant, and half-brother to the second queen of Henry -I. of England. A legend has been preserved, which relates that on her -marriage with Josceline, Agnes de Percy stipulated that her husband, -at his own option, should assume either the arms or the name of Percy; -and it is added that the bridegroom elected to retain his own arms, the -blue lion rampant of Brabant, while he assumed the paternal surname -of his bride. This legend, however, must be regarded as the poetic -offspring of a later age, since at the time of the marriage of Agnes de -Percy armorial insignia had neither assumed any definite character, nor -had any such insignia become hereditary. - -[Illustration: _The Prudhoe Tower and Chapel._] - -There is nothing to show that Josceline de Louvain ever bore the name -of Percy; but it is certain that the surname of his mother was assumed -and borne by the second son of Josceline’s marriage with the Percy -heiress, Henry de Percy; and by his descendants and successors the -same name was regularly borne. It was Sir Henry de Percy, third of the -name, who in 1309, the second year of Edward II., when already he was -possessed of vast wealth, and great power, became the _first Lord of -Alnwick of the House of Percy_, by purchase from Bishop Anthony Bec. -Having taken an active part in the wars with Scotland and otherwise -distinguished himself among the foremost men of his time, Henry, first -Baron Percy of Alnwick, died in 1315, and was buried at Fountains -Abbey, to which institution he had been a munificent benefactor. One of -the powerful barons who signed the memorable letter to Pope Boniface -VIII., in which the peers of England refused to recognise or allow the -interference of Papal authority with the independent sovereignty of -this realm, he married Eleanor Fitz-Alan, daughter of Richard, Earl of -Arundel, by whom he had two sons, and of these the elder, another Henry -de Percy, succeeded his father as second Baron Percy of Alnwick, to -whom was granted by Edward III. the castle and manor of Warkworth “for -service in peace and war,” as appears from the original grant now in -the Duke of Northumberland’s possession. This Lord Percy was interred -at Alnwick Abbey, the only head of the family buried in Northumberland. -The history of the lords of Alnwick from this period becomes so closely -interwoven with the history of England, that it would be superfluous -in such a sketch as the present to attempt to introduce even a slight -outline of the career of each of those renowned barons; and, indeed, -if it were desirable, it would not be possible here to find space for -the very slightest outline of so comprehensive a subject. Accordingly, -we now are content to give but little more than the succession of the -Percies after they became lords of Alnwick. - -Henry de Percy, eldest son of the first baron, succeeded his father -as second Baron Percy of Alnwick; he died in 1352, leaving, by his -wife Idonea de Clifford (whose magnificent monument, with its rich and -splendid architectural canopy, unsurpassed in England, and also without -a rival in its remarkable condition of preservation, is the pride of -Beverley Minster), four sons, of whom the eldest, Henry, succeeded as -third Baron Percy of Alnwick. This baron died in 1368; his eldest son, -by Mary of Lancaster, Henry de Percy, sixth of his name and fourth -baron, was created EARL OF NORTHUMBERLAND by Richard II., and High -Constable of England. This great noble fell a victim to the tyranny of -Henry IV., at Bramham Moor, in 1409. He was thrice married: first to -Elizabeth, heiress to the Earl of Angus, by whom he acquired the barony -of Prudhoe; secondly to Margaret de Neville; and thirdly to Maud de -Lucy, sister and heiress of Lord Lucy, widow of Gilbert de Umfraville, -and mother of her second husband’s first wife: and by these alliances -the barony of Prudhoe, with the estates of the Lucys and the castle -and honour of Cockermouth, became annexed to the Percy earldom. Sir -Henry de Percy, known by his surname of HOTSPUR as well in song as in -history,— - - “Who was sweet Fortune’s minion and her pride,” - -the earl’s eldest son, was killed near Shrewsbury in 1403. At Trotton, -in Sussex, a fine monumental brass commemorates Elizabeth de Mortimer, -wife of Hotspur, and afterwards of Lord Camoys. - -[Illustration: _The Keep._] - -After several years the fortified honours and estates of the Percies -were restored to Henry, the son of Hotspur, who thus became the second -Earl of Northumberland. This great earl was killed, fighting under -the red-rose banner, at St. Albans, in 1455; and was succeeded by his -fourth surviving son, by his marriage with Eleanor de Neville, another -Henry, who, with one of his brothers, fell at the disastrous rout of -Towton, in 1461. Two other brothers of this earl died in arms in the -Lancastrian cause; one of them, Sir Ralph de Percy, a few days before -the final catastrophe at Hexham in 1464, was killed fighting bravely on -Hedgeley Moor, where a cross was erected as a memorial of his valour -and his fall: of this cross the shaft, adorned with the heraldic -insignia of Percy and Lucy, is still standing. Under the third earl, -who, by his marriage with Eleanor de Poynings, acquired the baronies -of Poynings, Fitzpayne, and Bryan, the estates attached to the earldom -reached their greatest territorial extent, and constituted a vast -principality. - -In 1469 the attainder of the third earl having been reversed, his only -son, Henry, became the fourth earl; he was killed in a popular tumult -in 1489, when his eldest son, by his marriage with Maud de Herbert, -Henry Algernon, succeeded as fifth earl. Remarkable rather for an -almost regal state and magnificence than for the warlike qualities that -before his time had been hereditary in his house, he was the first -Earl of Northumberland who did not fall in battle or otherwise suffer -a violent death. He died in 1527, having married Catherine Spense, or -Spencer. The Household Book of this earl, which has been published -by Bishop Percy, is one of the most remarkable and characteristic -documents that illustrate the personal history of the greatest English -nobles in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. His son, the sixth -earl, a second Henry Algernon de Percy, the lover of Anne Boleyn in -her earlier and really happier days, married Mary Talbot, daughter of -the Earl of Shrewsbury, but in 1537 died without issue, when the grand -Percy earldom became extinct. - -Twenty years later, “in consideration of his noble descent, constancy, -virtue, and valour in deeds of arms, and other shining qualifications,” -of which last recommendations to royal favour the fact that he was a -zealous Roman Catholic certainly was not the least influential, Thomas -de Percy, eldest son of the second son of the fifth earl (Sir Thomas -Percy), was created by Queen Mary, Baron Percy, and also restored to -the earldom of Northumberland; but the tenure by which the restored -earl was to hold his dignities and lands restricted the succession -absolutely to the heirs male of his own body, and to those of his -brother. This the seventh earl was executed, as a traitor, at York, -in 1572, leaving no surviving son. Accordingly, his brother, Henry -de Percy, became the eighth earl: he died in 1585, having been shot -(it was said, but most doubtfully, by his own hand) while a prisoner -in the Tower. The eldest son of this earl, by Catherine de Neville, -Henry, succeeded as ninth earl: he was a learned, eccentric personage, -commonly known as “the Wizard,” and died, after an imprisonment of -fifteen years in the Tower, in 1632. He married Dorothy Devereux, -and was succeeded by his eldest son, Algernon, one of the noblest of -his race. This great earl died in 1668, having married, first, Anne -Cecil, and, secondly, Elizabeth Howard. His successor, his only son -(by his second marriage), Josceline de Percy, the eleventh and last -earl of Northumberland of the direct lineage of the Percies, died in -1670, leaving, by his wife Elizabeth, daughter of Thomas, Earl of -Southampton, an only child, a daughter, Elizabeth de Percy, four years -old at the time of her father’s death. - -Here we pause, before we trace onwards the fortunes of the later lords -of Alnwick, that we may direct our attention to the history of their -grandest northern fortress-home, Alnwick Castle. - -[Illustration: _Norman Gateway in the Keep._] - -The plan of the castle, as it exists at the present time, is shown in -our engraving; and it will be seen that five distinct periods in the -architectural history are indicated by varieties of shading introduced -into the outlines. The extreme extent of the walls from east to west -slightly exceeds 1,000 feet; while that from north to south is somewhat -less than 600 feet. The varied outline of the space enclosed within -the walls, which in a great measure has been determined by the nature -of the ground, in an infinite degree enhances the equally noble and -picturesque aspect of the edifice. The figures in the plan refer to -the various parts of the castle in the manner following:—1, is the -Barbican; 2, the Gateway to the second Baly; 3, the Octagonal Towers; -4, the Norman Gateway; 5, the Grand Staircase; 6, the Guard Chamber; -7, the Principal Ante-Room; 8, the Library; 9, the Saloon; 10, the -Drawing-Room; 11, the Dining Hall; 12, the Chapel; 13 and 14, State -Bed-Rooms, 15, Boudoir of the Duchess; 16, Kitchen; 17, Estate Offices; -18, Laundry; 19, Guest-Hall; 20, Stables; 21, Riding-School; 22, West -Garret; 23, Abbot’s Tower; 24, Falconer’s Tower; 25, Postern Tower; -26, Constable’s Tower; 27, Ravine Tower; 28, East Garret; 29, Warder’s -Tower; 30, Auditor’s Tower; 31, Clock Tower; and 32, the Avener’s -Tower. Thus, the open ground within the circumvallation, as will be -seen by the plan, is divided into two irregular spaces, the outer and -the inner Baly, the outer being toward the west. Occupying a central -position is the Keep, a grand cluster of towers and curtain-walls, -enclosing an open court-yard: of these towers, the new Prudhoe Tower, -within which is the Library (No. 8), with its lofty banner-turret, -is the most conspicuous. Running south, commencing with No. 13 and -extending to No. 2, a new range of buildings connects the Keep with -the early Percy gateway between the balies, and with the main southern -curtain. In this direction, all the buildings, from No. 29 to No. 17, -and from thence (with the exception of No. 31, which is one of the -flanking towers of the main curtain) to No. 19 southward, and to No. 21 -westward, are new, and they have been erected beyond and without the -limits of the proper fortification. In like manner, the whole line of -curtain-wall, from No. 24 to No. 25, is new. To the north of the Keep -the ground falls somewhat rapidly in the direction of the river; from -the bridge which here crosses the Aln, the view of THE CASTLE, as its -groups of towers and its far-extending walls rise proudly above the -encircling woods, is particularly fine and impressive. - -The principal approach and entrance to the castle are from the west. -Here, to the westward of the original outer face of the fosse, stands -the Barbican; an embattled outwork of equal strength and dignity, the -work of the first of the Percies, about A.D. 1310. The rounded arch of -the entrance gateway here is an example of a usage not very uncommon -at the period which has just been specified, and always present in the -works of Lord Henry de Perci. The Barbican, which covers an area of 55 -feet in length by 32 feet in width, is a perfect example of the style -of fortification that was held to be essential for defence against -assault in mediæval warfare. One remarkable feature, which is repeated -again and again in various parts of the castle, cannot fail at once -to attract attention when approaching the Barbican; this is the array -of tall figures representing armed warders of the fourteenth century, -sculptured in stone, which surmount the parapet, and stand upon the -merlons of the embattling, casting their long shadows upon the grey -masonry. - -[Illustration: _The Armourer’s Tower._] - -Having entered the Barbican, passed under the sculptured Percy -lion which keeps guard over the archway, and traversed the entrance -tower, we find ourselves within the enclosure of the first or outer -baly; here, turning to the left, we commence our survey of the castle -within the lines of circumvallation. The curtain-wall, extending from -the entrance northwards at a right angle to the Abbot’s Tower, and -having midway a garret or wall-tower (No. 22 in plan) built upon it, -is part of the old Norman work of the De Vescis, with evident tokens -of important reparation a little before the middle of the fifteenth -century, by the father of Hotspur, the sixth lord of Alnwick. The -Armourer’s Tower (No. 23 in plan), which occupies the N.W. angle -of the _enceinte_, is a noble piece of Edwardian architecture; it -consists of a vaulted basement, with two stories above it, connected -by a turret-stair: and its external massive effectiveness is greatly -enhanced by the square turret at the N.W. angle of the tower, which -rises boldly above the embattled parapet, having its own merlons -crowned with weather-beaten sculptured warders. Now facing eastwards, -and soon making a slight inclination towards the east, again we follow -the line of the Norman curtain-walls, until we reach the new Falconer’s -Tower (No. 24 in plan), which has been built on the site of the razed -early Armourer’s and Falconer’s Towers; the original curtain apparently -extended in a direct line from No. 24 to the Keep. Passing onwards -along the new curtain-wall due east from No. 24, we follow the line -of this wall as it turns towards the south, and at No. 25 in the plan -brings us to the Postern Tower, another massive relic of the first Lord -Percy, placed at the base of the eminence upon which the Keep stands; -this tower protects a postern or sally-port, and it has a curious -staircase in the thickness of its walls: it is now used as a museum for -Roman and British antiquities. Advancing still further eastwards, but -with an inclination to the north, and again following the course of De -Vesci’s curtain, we reach the Constable’s Tower (No. 26 in plan), of -Edwardian architecture, to which there are three external entrances, -one in each floor: one chamber in this tower is used as an armoury. -Again, as we follow the guidance of the curtain-wall towards the S.E., -we have before us the Norman masonry, with traces of Edwardian, or -first Percy, reparation. Here, about midway between Nos. 26 and 27 of -the plan, an embattled projection from the line of the wall has been -entitled “Hotspur’s Chair,” and to the east of this projection a gap in -the curtain is filled up with eighteenth-century masonry; this gap a -not very well-supported tradition assigns to a fierce assault by some -Scots, who are said to have been so far successful as to beat down -this portion of the castle-wall, after which exploit the tradition -adds that the assailants were cut off to a man by the garrison. This -tower, which is called both the Ravine Tower and the Record Tower -(No. 27 of plan), stands at the easternmost extremity of the castle; -with Edwardian remains in its walls, it was for the most part rebuilt -in the last century: on the ground-floor is the muniment-room, in -which the records are kept. From this point our course inclines in -a south-westerly direction, the curtain being eighteenth-century -work, until again, at No. 28 in the plan, we welcome traces of the -early masonry: here another garret occurs, with the junction of the -Norman and modern masonry; then yet another succeeds, as once more -we follow an eighteenth-century wall until we reach the new Lion or -Garden Gatehouse, No. 29 in the plan, through which a road leads to -Barneyside, where are situated the extensive and beautiful gardens of -the castle. - -[Illustration: _On the Barbican._] - -From within this gateway, which is flanked by two octagonal towers, -one of them—the Warder’s Tower—larger and loftier than the other, -the curtain-wall of the first Lord Percy’s work leads in a direct line -nearly due west; we follow the course of this wall, we pass through -the middle gate-house, erected by the first of the Percies, which both -separates and connects the inner and the outer baly; again, on our -left, we have early Norman masonry in the curtain, and then we reach -the Auditor’s Tower (No. 30 in plan), another relic of the first Lord -Percy: here was held the court of the lord of the barony; here now -is the private Library of the Duke; and here also is the Museum of -Egyptian Antiquities, collected by Duke Algernon, the last munificent -restorer of Alnwick. Still following the line of the curtain, we -reach the Clock Tower. From this tower, the curtain, built in the -last century, leads in a northerly direction to the entrance gateway -connected with the Barbican, to which, thus completing our entire -circuit, we now return, having passed, since leaving the Clock Tower, -the Avener’s Tower or Garner (No. 32 of plan), like the adjoining -curtain, a modern work. - -During our progress from the garden gate (No. 29 in plan) westward -and northward to the Barbican, we have passed the long ranges of new -buildings that either adjoin or actually abut upon the outer face of -the curtain-walls (Nos. 16 to 21 in plan), by no means unimportant -parts of the latest restoration, which comprise all the domestic -offices and the whole stable department of the castle. These buildings, -which have been planned and constructed with the highest architectural -and engineering skill, are on a scale of princely magnitude; and of -them it may truly be said that they leave nothing to be desired. Of -one only of these new edifices is it necessary that we should make -particular mention; this is No. 19 on the plan, a noble apartment, -covered with an open timber hammer-beam roof. In consequence of there -being in the restored castle no such baronial hall as invariably formed -the principal feature in a great mediæval stronghold, Duke Algernon -built this Guest Hall in its stead, which might enable himself and his -successors to assemble his and their tenantry and friends to partake of -the always splendid hospitality of the Percies. This hall has also been -used for concerts and various other purposes. - -[Illustration: _The Well in the Keep._] - -From the Barbican we retrace our steps so far as to traverse the -roadway that leads to the inner Gate-House (No. 2 in plan), that we may -explore the magnificent Keep: this, however, is a duty we postpone; -pausing for a while, and resting beneath the tree that grows beside -the Barbican. Presently, we shall resume our biographical sketch, and -observe by what means an only daughter once again became the ancestress -of a noble lineage, and through them brought to the house and castle of -the Percies a still more exalted dignity and a still higher honour than -ever before had been attained by them. - -[Illustration: _The Constable’s Tower._] - -And we rejoice to know that the noble line of the Percies was not -destined finally to fail with a failure of a direct heir male; it also -is a subject for rejoicing that over the towers of Alnwick there still -should wave a banner, charged with the same quarterings that in the -olden time were so well known to the breezes of Northumberland. As it -has been well said, Alnwick Castle has ever been esteemed as the old -head-quarters of border chivalry; and, in truth, it is a subject for -national pride to feel it has that same aspect still. No one assuredly -can “look upon this very ‘gudlye howsse,’ as King Harry’s commissioners -called it, or upon its grassy courts fringed with ‘faire towres,’ its -stately keep with its ‘marveylouse fare vaulte’ ‘and tryme ladgings,’” -as they are described about the middle of the sixteenth century, in the -survey made by Clarkson for the seventh earl, “without feeling that he -had seen the martial, social, and most knightly centre of mediæval life -in Northumberland.” And so also, in like manner, no one now can visit -Alnwick Castle, and not feel deeply impressed with the conviction that -the England, of which the past history possesses monumental records -and still living witnesses such as this, is a land rich as well in the -most precious elements of present strength as in the most glorious of -memories; and so, when her true sons look forward to the future of -England, they may do so in the spirit of the fine old motto of the -Percies—ESPERANCE. - -[Illustration] - - * * * * * - -The annals of the truly noble family of the Percies, as we have seen, -down to the death of Josceline, the eleventh earl, in 1670, extend -over five centuries, during three hundred and sixty-one years of -which period, almost without interruption, the family was intimately -connected with Alnwick. By the limitation of the patent of 1557, the -youthful daughter of Earl Josceline was incapable of inheriting her -father’s honours, and thus, at last, the Percies’ earldom again became -extinct, when no inconsiderable part of their immense possessions -lapsed to the crown: the great northern earldom, however, was not -permitted in this manner to pass away without more than one fruitless -effort on the part of collateral descendants to establish a claim to -the succession. - -Notwithstanding the alienation of some of the estates consequent upon -the extinction of the Earldom of Northumberland, Elizabeth Percy, the -daughter of the last earl, was the most wealthy heiress in the realm; -and, accordingly, it was considered to be a matter of the greatest -importance that a suitable alliance should be arranged for her with -the least possible delay. When but little more than a child, in 1679, -she was married to Henry Cavendish, Earl of Ogle, and heir to the Duke -of Newcastle, who died in the following year. Before another year -had expired, the youthful widow was again married to Thomas Thynn of -Longleat; but once more the heiress became a widow very shortly after -her marriage. Her second husband was murdered early in 1682, as he was -passing in his coach along Pall Mall. While she was still not more than -fifteen years of age, within three months after the tragedy in Pall -Mall, Elizabeth Percy became the wife of Charles Seymour, sixth Duke -of Somerset, by whom only she had issue: she died in 1722, leaving, -besides three daughters, one only surviving son, Algernon, who in 1748 -succeeded his father as seventh Duke of Somerset. In 1749 this duke was -created Baron of Warkworth and Earl of Northumberland, with remainder -of those dignities to the heirs male of his daughter, his only -surviving child, by her marriage with Sir Hugh Smithson. The duke died -in 1750, when the Seymour dignities reverted to the male descendants of -the Protector Somerset by his first marriage. Thus, once more, an only -daughter, now bearing the paternal name of Seymour, was the heiress and -representative of the Percy lords of Alnwick: and thus, by reason of -his alliance with this lady, Sir Hugh Smithson became _jure uxoris_, by -special Act of Parliament, Earl of Northumberland; and he himself, his -countess, and their descendants, were empowered and authorised to take -and use the surname of Percy alone, and to bear and quarter all the -armorial insignia of that noble house. - -The fortunate husband of this last heiress of the Percies, on the death -of his grandfather, Sir Hugh Smithson, in the year 1729, succeeded to -the baronetcy, which had been conferred by Charles II. in 1663 on that -grandfather’s grandfather, also a Hugh Smithson. A remarkably handsome -man, with a refined taste, and in many other respects well qualified -for the distinguished destiny which awaited him, Sir Hugh Smithson -is said to have been in no slight degree indebted for his eventual -splendid matrimonial success to a previous failure. He had attracted -the attention of Lady Percy, who, on hearing that some other lady had -rejected the suit of Sir Hugh Smithson, expressed her surprise that any -lady should have refused to accept such a man. The words of the fair -and noble heiress reached the ears of the disconsolate baronet, and -they promptly wrought a marvellous change in his views and aspirations. -Upon the hint so given Sir Hugh spoke, and—his words were not in -vain. In nearly all the “Peerages,” borrowed one from another, it is -stated that this Sir Hugh Smithson early in life went to London, where -he established himself in business as an apothecary. Although no slur -would thus have been cast on the illustrious race, it is simply untrue. -The following statement, extracted from a “Baronetage” published in -1727, may be accepted in proof:— - -“The present Sir Hugh Smithson married a sister of the late Lord -Langdale, and had two sons, who lived to man’s estate. Hugh, the -eldest, died unmarried before his father; Langdale Smithson, the second -son, married Miss Revely, by whom he left only one son, Hugh—now a -minor, and a most hopeful young gentleman—so that there now remain -only two heirs to the title and estate—this young gentleman, Sir -Hugh’s grandson, and Hugh Smithson, of Tottenham, Esq., cousin of Sir -Hugh.” - -[Illustration: _The East Garret._] - -The “young gentleman” in question succeeded his grandfather as Sir -Hugh Smithson, of Stanwick. There was no trace in any documents -or papers of his ever having been in any position but that of the -acknowledged heir to a considerable estate and to a baronetage, granted -to his ancestor for his loyalty and sacrifices in the royal cause -during the civil wars of Charles I.[21] He married Lady Percy on the -16th of July, 1740, when he became Earl of Northumberland with all the -territorial greatness attendant on that earldom. - -[Illustration: _The Garden Gate, or Warder’s Tower._] - -In 1766 the earl was created Duke of Northumberland and Earl Percy, -with succession to his heirs male; and, finally, in 1784, the barony of -Lovaine was added to the duke’s accumulated dignities, with remainder -to the younger of his two sons. The duchess died in 1776, but the duke -survived till 1786: they had one daughter, who died unmarried, and -two sons, Hugh and Algernon, of whom the elder succeeded his father -as second Duke of Northumberland, a distinguished general officer in -the first American War. The second duke married, first, a daughter of -the then Earl of Bute; and, secondly, Frances Julia, third daughter of -Peter Burrell, Esquire, a Commissioner of the Excise, by whom he had -a numerous family: the duke died in 1817, and was succeeded by Hugh, -his eldest son, who thus became the third Duke of Northumberland, the -princely representative of George IV. at the coronation of Charles X. -of France. This third duke died, without issue, in 1847, having married -Lady Charlotte Florentia Clive, youngest daughter of Earl Powis: and -thus the dukedom passed to the third duke’s brother, the younger son of -the second duke, who at the time of his brother’s death bore the title -of Baron Prudhoe—an independent peerage to which he himself had been -elevated in 1816, in consideration of his services as an officer in the -navy. - -Algernon Percy, fourth Duke of Northumberland, was born in 1792; in -1842 he married the Lady Eleanor Grosvenor, daughter of the Marquis of -Westminster; in 1847 he succeeded to the honours and possessions of his -family; he was created a K.G. in 1852, when he also held the office of -First Lord of the Admiralty; and on February 12th, 1865, he died at -Alnwick Castle, and, as his brother and predecessor had died, without -any issue. Like the great soldier, with whose memory the dukedom of -Wellington must ever be directly associated, Sir Algernon Percy will -long be remembered with affectionate and grateful admiration as THE -Duke of Northumberland. A true English sailor, a princely English -Nobleman, an elegant scholar and an accomplished gentleman, large of -heart too and open of hand, with his commanding presence Duke Algernon -looked every inch a Percy; and, in very deed, in his person were -centred the brightest of the brilliant qualities of his forefathers, in -happy combination with those admirable endowments that were peculiarly -his own. - -The two sons of the first duke (as we have seen) bore the same names -as the two sons of his successor the second duke—Hugh and Algernon -Percy. The two brothers, the sons of the first duke, married two -sisters, daughters of Mr. Burrell.[22] With Duke Algernon the line of -Hugh, the elder of the sons of the first duke, became extinct; and, -consequently, the succession to the dukedom passed to the descendants -of that other Algernon who was the younger son of the first duke. This -Algernon, who on the death of his father became Baron Lovaine, in 1798 -was created Earl of Beverley: he died in 1830. George Percy, his son, -then succeeded as Earl of Beverley; and subsequently, in 1865, at that -time being in the 87th year of his age, this venerable nobleman became -the fifth Duke of Northumberland. He died August 21, 1867; and was -succeeded by his eldest surviving son (by his marriage with Louisa, -daughter of the Hon. A. Stuart Wortley). The present peer, Algernon -George Percy, sixth Duke and eighteenth Earl of Northumberland, Earl -Percy, Earl of Beverley, Baron Warkworth, Baron Lovaine of Alnwick, -and a baronet, was born May 2nd, 1810, and was educated at Eton. He -entered the army in 1827, and retired in 1836. In 1858 he was a Lord of -the Admiralty, in 1859 Vice-President of the Board of Trade, and from -1831 to 1865 sat in Parliament, first for Beeralston and afterwards for -North Northumberland. He is Colonel of the Northumberland Militia, Hon. -Colonel of the Percy Northumberland Volunteer Artillery, and President -of the National Lifeboat Institution. In 1845 his grace married Louisa, -daughter of the late Henry Drummond, Esq., M.P., of Abury Park, Surrey, -by whom he has issue living two sons, viz., Henry George Percy, Earl of -Percy, married, in 1868, to Lady Edith Campbell, eldest daughter of the -Duke of Argyll, by whom he has issue; and Lord Algernon Malcolm Arthur -Percy. His grace is patron of twenty-two livings, nineteen of which are -in Northumberland and one each in Yorkshire, Dorsetshire, and Surrey. - -The arms of the Duke of Northumberland are: Quarterly, 1st and 4th -Lovaine and Lucy quarterly (viz., 1st and 4th, _or_, a lion rampant, -_azure_, for Lovaine, 2nd and 3rd, _gules_, three luces or pikes, -hauriant, for Lucy), 2nd and 3rd, _azure_, five lozenges conjoined -in fesse, _or_, for Percy. Crest: On a chapeau, _gules_, turned up, -_ermine_, a lion statant, tail extended, _azure_. Supporters: Dexter, a -lion, _azure_; sinister, a lion, guardant, _or_, gorged with a collar -compony, _argent_ and _azure_. - -His grace’s other seats are, Keilder, Prudhoe, and Warkworth castles, -in Northumberland; Sion House, Middlesex; Stanwick Park, Yorkshire; -Albury Park; and Northumberland House, Charing Cross. - -Thus having brought down our sketch of the lords of Alnwick, from the -early days in English history that immediately followed the Norman -Conquest to the times now present, we return to their noble castle on -the banks of the Aln. - -Within a few years of the Conquest, the Normans erected in various -parts of England important edifices, both military and ecclesiastical, -in truly astonishing numbers: and of these, in addition to the -cathedrals and the greater churches, there still exist many noble -castellated relics, some of them in a proximate degree retaining the -leading features of their original arrangement, form, and appearance. -At the same time, even in the case of the most perfect of the existing -castles, many changes of grave importance have been introduced as -century has succeeded to century; so that now, whenever any one early -castle is examined with a view to trace out and to determine both what -it was at the first, and in what order and with what motives certain -palpable alterations and innovations have followed one another, it -always is highly satisfactory to feel that an unquestionable general -uniformity of plan and arrangement in all the early castles enables -each one of them that is still in being, in some degree at any rate, -to illustrate and explain every other. As a matter of course, whenever -the architectural features in any old castle are original, the great -art of the architect is able, unaided and beyond all controversy, to -tell its own historical tale: but, genuine original architectural -features are not always available to give their conclusive evidence; -and, but too frequently, without some external aid, it is not possible -to follow the career of the two terrible adversaries of early -edifices (and particularly those of the noblest rank), demolition and -restoration—demolition, either wilful or the result of accident and -chance; and restoration, which always is wilful, though happily not -always equally destructive. - -As it now stands, in every quality of high merit ALNWICK CASTLE -certainly yields to no other restored edifice of a similar rank. Of -the castle of to-day it may truthfully be affirmed that, with a close -approach to an exact fidelity, in its prevailing external arrangements -and its general features it represents the grand old fortress of -times long passed away. Time had dealt somewhat hardly with the Percy -stronghold, and injudicious attempts to make good the ravages of the -destroyer had aggravated the evil, when the recent great work of -restoration was taken in hand. Then every vestige of the old structure -was diligently and carefully examined, and every available early -document was critically studied; the remains also of other castles then -were investigated, and all that they could suggest was applied by the -restorers of Alnwick to the furtherance of their great project. Hence -the plan of Alnwick, as we now have it, while it can scarcely claim -to be absolutely identical with the original plan, may be accepted as -not greatly differing from it in any essential particulars. Whether -Yvo de Vesci, the undoubted founder of the castle, was enabled fully -to carry out his own original plans, we are not able at the present -time accurately to determine; but, still it may be assumed that the -plans of De Vesci, to whatever degree they may have been realised by -himself, both in extent and in general configuration closely resembled -those which were worked out by the Percies, when they had become lords -Alnwick, as these, in their turn, were afterwards followed as their -guides by the recent restorers who were employed by Duke Algernon. - -[Illustration: _Bond Gate: “Hotspur’s Gate.”_] - -The great epochs in the architectural history of Alnwick Castle may be -thus distinguished. - -I. DE VESCI, about A.D. 1150: the original founding of the castle, and -its erection as an Anglo-Norman stronghold. - -II. FIRST PERCY, from 1309 to 1315: the second founding and great -reparation of the castle, with either the complete rebuilding or the -original erection of many of its most important parts. At this period -were erected the Barbican, the Gate-House, the Western Garret; the -Abbot’s, Falconer’s, Armourer’s, Constable’s, and Auditor’s Towers; -also the Postern and the Ravine Towers, the Gateway between the first -and second baly, with the adjoining curtain-walls both east and west, -a great portion of the east side of the Keep, the Well, and the grand -Baronial Hall. - -III. SECOND PERCY, from 1315 to 1352; the completion of portions of the -works of the preceding period, and the erection of the two flanking -towers (No. 8 in plan) in advance of the Norman entrance to the Keep: -these towers are represented in our engraving. - -IV. THIRD PERCY, ending in 1455: various important reparations and -additions, most of the latter having been removed by the first duke in -the next period. - -V. FIRST DUKE OF NORTHUMBERLAND, from 1750 to 1786: general reparation, -after a long period of neglect and ruin, including a material -transformation of the greater part of the castle. The Keep was almost -entirely demolished, and rebuilt after the manner that was called (and, -in one sense of that term, really was) “Gothic” in the eighteenth -century in England; and the towers and curtain of the circumvallation -suffered in like manner. - -VI. FOURTH DUKE OF NORTHUMBERLAND, from 1854 to 1865: complete -restoration of the entire castle. The important works erected by Duke -Algernon along the lines of the circumvallation, and to the south and -the south-west of these lines, have already been described; in addition -to these, the duke rebuilt the range of apartments extending from the -Keep southwards to the Edwardian Gateway from the first to the second -baly; and he built the noble Prudhoe Tower, with the chapel adjoining -it, the Ante-Room, the Guard Chamber, the present Dining-Hall, and the -completion of the Keep. - -The governing idea of this restoration was _really to restore_, in -all their leading and most characteristic features, the mediæval -arrangements and aspect of Alnwick Castle so far as its exterior was -concerned; while, at the same time, the whole of the interior of the -restored edifice was to be planned, fitted, and adorned, in the most -sumptuous style, after the manner of a cinquecento Roman palace, and -with all the luxurious splendour and the various skilful contrivances -required and suggested by the taste and the usages of the present -day. The only important deviation from the former part of the duke’s -plan, was the removal of the Edwardian Towers, and the adjoining -curtain-wall between the Abbot’s Tower and the Postern Tower, in order -to open the view from the windows of the new Prudhoe Tower towards the -north: but the Italian portion of the scheme was accomplished in its -integrity. The whole of the architectural restoration and rebuilding -was carried out with the most perfect success, under the direction -of Mr. Salvin, an architect eminently distinguished for his practical -knowledge of the Early Gothic of England in its military aspect, as -also for both the conscientious fidelity of his restorations and the -judicious consistency of his original designs. We can easily understand -with what satisfaction Mr. Salvin must have removed the Strawberry -Hill pseudo-Gothic of the first duke, as well as the far higher -gratification which must have attended the progressive realisation of -his own truly admirable compositions. - -[Illustration: _Alnwick Abbey._] - -The project for causing the thoroughly English mediæval military-Gothic -casket of Mr. Salvin to enclose contents that should be in every -respect the very reverse of what is either English or mediæval or -military or Gothic, was discussed and finally adopted at a congress -held in the castle under the presidency of Algernon, Duke of -Northumberland, and attended by the English professors of classic -architecture, Cockerell and Donaldson; the Roman antiquary, the -Commendatore Canina; and the Italian architect, Signor Montiroli. It is -to be regretted that such masters of Gothic Art as Scott, Waterhouse, -Street, and Burges had not also been present, who might have saved -the Border Castle of the Percies from the magnificent anomaly of -being externally English and internally Roman. The execution of the -whole of the interior can be described only in terms of the highest -commendation; and it is especially satisfactory to know that the -profusion of carved work in an Italian style which was required for -the various purposes of decoration, and which has been pronounced to -be “a marvel of delicacy and finish,” was produced under the direction -of Signor Bulletti of Florence, by a staff of English and Scottish -carvers, who worked for several years in a studio established for that -particular purpose in the castle. There also was a second studio, in -which the more important of the decorations in plaster were modelled -and cast. It is scarcely necessary to add that in all the minor -details of furnishing, the grand original plan has been fully and -faithfully carried into effect. While we cordially recognise as well -the enlarged views and the princely munificence of the duke himself, -as the skill, the taste, and the ability of every individual who took -part in his great work of restoration, it is impossible not to regret -that so glorious an opportunity for vindicating the versatile and -comprehensive powers of true Gothic art should have been permitted to -pass away. There can be no question as to the capacity of the same -great style to have rendered the interior of Alnwick Castle a type of -splendid, and yet agreeable, magnificence, which on the exterior has -displayed its structural resources in a manner at once so noble and -so consistent. But, as this was not to be, we rejoice in knowing that -what has been done within the Percy walls has been done so well; and -our gratification is the more sincere and the more hearty, because at -every point the Percy walls themselves, true to their grand traditions, -wear such an aspect as Hotspur might have recognised with an approving -smile, and the old Earls of Northumberland would have been proud to -accept as becoming their northern home.[23] - -[Illustration: _The Percy Cross._] - -And here we resume our survey of the castle, setting forth towards -the Keep from within the Gate-House, which is itself situated within -the Barbican. We proceed eastwards to the gateway (No. 2 in plan), -which admits us to the second or inner baly. From this we approach the -entrance to the Keep, and pass between the Edwardian flanking towers -with their octagonal fronts (No. 3 in the plan): thus we reach the -grand old Norman arch, De Vesci’s work, massive and deeply recessed, -rich with zig-zags and bands of sharp indentations, which forms the -main entrance to the innermost court or ward of the Keep itself. -Immediately adjoining the Norman archway is the draw-well constructed -by the first Percy. Now we have before us the new Corridor, carried -round a part of the court on piers and corbels. We pass the inner -porches, and the entrance-halls, and reach the Grand Staircase (No. 5 -in plan), worthily so called, and we find that we have entered such a -palace as might overlook, not the Aln, but the Tiber. At the head of -the noble flight of steps, each one of them a single block of white -Rothbury stone, twelve feet in length, is the Guard-Chamber, with its -floor of rich Venetian mosaic, its panelled ceiling, and the deep -frieze reflecting the memories of Chevy Chase. Corridors lead to both -the right hand and the left from the Guard-Room; and it also gives -access to a gorgeous Ante-Room, placed between the great Library, 54 -feet long, which occupies the entire range of the Prudhoe Tower, and -follows its contour; and the Saloon, another magnificent apartment, in -length 42 feet with a bay formed by a circular tower. Next succeeds -the State Drawing-Room, of irregular form, its largest measurements -being 46 by 34 feet. Then we enter the grand Dining-Hall, 60 feet -long, and in both width and height 24 feet, which covers the site -of the old baronial hall of the early Percies. The Breakfast-Room -adjoins this most princely hall, and, passing it, the Corridor leads -us in succession to the State Bed-Rooms and Dressing-Rooms, and to -the private apartments of the duke and duchess, together with other -staircases. Thus, on the principal floor there are two staircases -besides the grand staircase, and eighteen chambers, exclusive of the -chapel. The Chapel (No. 12 in plan), of which we give a view from -the outer baly, is a building of great beauty and interest, having a -stone-vaulted ceiling within a roof of a high pitch, a semi-octagonal -apsidal end towards the south-west, and lancet windows: its total -length is 46 feet, and in the interior it is enriched with Italian -mosaic, after the manner of the Henry III. work in the Confessor’s -Chapel in Westminster Abbey. We must be content, in a single brief -sentence (the space at our disposal restricts us absolutely to one such -sentence), to state concerning every apartment in the grand range of -the entire circuit of the Keep, and also in the southern wing, which -extends to the Percy gateway, that the most gorgeous Art of the Italian -_Renaissance_, with all its manifold resources, has been taxed to the -utmost in order to produce a palace of the highest rank, pervaded -throughout with harmonious, yet ever-varied, magnificence. - -[Illustration: _Hulne Abbey: The Percy Tower._] - -On the ground-floor, which is on the same level with the entrance-hall, -are the various apartments, consistently grouped and classified, -required by the principal domestics of the household, together with the -wine-cellars, pantries, and such other chambers and appliances as would -be necessary to complete this department of the ducal establishment. -Once more we return to the Prudhoe Tower, and ascend above its two -upper floors of bed and dressing-rooms, to the Banner-turret, which -rises to the height of two additional floors; and here, having gained -the leads, standing beneath the proud insignia of the Percies, heavily -blazoned upon their broad silken banner, we lean over the embattled -parapet, and look down upon the Keep, and around upon the cordon of -towers and walls, and the fair domains and the silvery river beyond, -and so we bid farewell to the lordly castle of Alnwick. - -Until the middle of the fifteenth century was near at hand the town of -Alnwick remained unprotected by a wall, and open consequently to all -perils incidental to its position on the Border. About the year 1433, -however, the good town was fortified with walls, and the four entrances -were defended each by its own strong tower-guarded gateway. One only of -these early gateways still remains in a fair condition of preservation; -this, the Bond Gate, sometimes (but without any other reason than a -lingering delight to associate any fine old relic at Alnwick with that -name) is called “Hotspur’s Gate.” It bears a badge of the second Percy -lord of Alnwick, and in all probability was erected by him; its outer -face is represented in the engraving. - -The other gateways have disappeared;[24] and from the time that -border-strife passed into the domain of history, the walls of Alnwick -gradually ceased to exist, until now traces only of their former -existence, and of these “few and far between,” remain to attest the -record of their having ever existed. Devoutly it is to be hoped that -the one relic of the town of the olden time, the Bond Gate, will be -cherished, simply because it is such a relic—because it links the -town to the castle, and the castle to the town, with the strong tie -of historical association. Again space, or rather the want of it, -constrains us to leave unnoticed the fine church of St. Michael, the -church of St. Paul, founded and erected by Duke Hugh, and the other -public buildings in Alnwick; and, with them, the privileges, usages, -and the entire local history of the town.[25] - -Of the remains of the early edifices, both ecclesiastical and -castellated, which are closely associated with Alnwick Castle, all of -them of great interest, and all of them also no less worthy of detailed -description than of careful examination, we must be content briefly to -notice two—Alnwick Abbey, and Hulne, or Holn, Priory. - -[Illustration: _Hulne Abbey: The Church._] - -Built to the north of the Aln, at an easy distance from the castle, -upon a rich soil and in a scene of sequestered beauty, Alnwick Abbey, -founded in 1147 by Eustace de Vesci for Premonstratensian Canons, was -richly endowed by the founder and also by his successor. The Percies, -in like manner, were in every respect as munificent as the earlier -benefactors of the abbey, so that it long occupied an honourable -position among the religious establishments of the country. The canons -of Alnwick, however, did not rise to distinction in consequence of any -eminent attainments; but, on the other hand, while in earlier times -they were somewhat notorious for a turbulent spirit, the report on -their abbey made to Henry VIII. contains a truly deplorable record -of the degrading superstitions by means of which, in common with but -too many of their brethren, the monks imposed on the people, and -sometimes even succeeded in deceiving themselves. Of the buildings -of the abbey, which, without doubt, were worthy to take rank with -those of the castle, the sole relic that is still in existence is a -turreted and embattled gateway, a structure not earlier than the middle -of the fifteenth century. The eastern face of this gateway displays -the quartered arms of Percy and Lucy; on the other faces are the -insignia of De Vesci. The other buildings have altogether disappeared, -except here and there some sculptured stones which have found their -way into the walls of houses constructed by modern masons. The site -of the abbey, with the Northumberland estates once annexed to it, -after various vicissitudes, has become the property of the Dukes of -Northumberland. - -Distant from Alnwick Abbey about two miles along the northern bank of -the Aln, and like the abbey placed in the midst of the most lovely -scenery, the Priory of HULNE, or HOLN, has so far been more fortunate -than its more dignified neighbour, that it yet possesses considerable -remains of its original buildings in a condition of picturesque ruin. -A lofty wall still encircles the entire area of the priory—a feature -sufficiently significant of the lawless character of early Border-life, -and of the stern necessity which constrained even a religious community -to rely for security upon the strength of its fortifications. In our -engraving we show the present aspect of the tower, built, as will -be seen, with massive solidity, by Henry de Percy, fourth Earl of -Northumberland, in the year 1488; and in another engraving, we give -a general view of the ruins of the church, as they are seen from the -north-east. It is pleasant to be able to add that the remains of Hulne -Priory are carefully preserved and freely shown. The brethren, who for -more than three centuries found a secure dwelling-place surrounded -with the most beautiful scenery, were Carmelite or White Friars; and -a romantic story (of which several versions are in existence) is told -concerning their order in connection with the foundation of this -priory. The site of the priory was given by the second William de Vesci -about 1240; but the chief endowment came, between 1252 and 1289, from -John de Vesci; the house itself, however, appears to have been erected -by Ralph Fulborne, a wealthy landholder of Northumberland, who lived in -the stirring times when the lords of broad and fertile acres went armed -to fight in the Holy Land against the infidels.[26] In after times the -Percies confirmed the grants of the earlier benefactors of Hulne, and -made to them some slight additions. The Carmelites of Hulne were men -who, according to the light of their times, cultivated learning; this -is shown by the still existing catalogue of the numerous manuscripts -that once formed their library. There has also been preserved another -equally curious and interesting document, formerly the property of -these Carmelite brethren; it is an inventory of their vestments and -of the fittings of their church, which must have been very costly as -well as numerous and splendid. Inventories and catalogues such as these -possess a peculiar value, as illustrations of the intellectual pursuits -and character of the monastic age, and also in consequence of the light -they throw upon the sentiments and usages that then were prevalent in -our country. - -Descending from the secluded hill-side where the ruins of Hulne Priory -nestle amidst the thick woods, and crossing both the vale below, and -the river beyond it, a roadway leads to the beautiful pleasure-grounds -of Hulne Park. Here on one of the highest of the many elevated points, -and rising above the surrounding trees, is the Tower on the Hill, or -Brislee Tower, erected by the first duke in 1781. This structure is a -characteristic specimen of the _Gothesque_ architecture, of which so -much was happily removed during the recent restorations, from Alnwick -Castle. From the upper balcony of this tower, at a height of about 70 -feet from the ground, the view is singularly fine, and in its extent -truly extraordinary. At different points of the compass, and at varying -distances, this panoramic view comprehends the vale of Whittingham and -the windings of the Aln; the range of the Cheviots, with a glimpse -of the hills of Teviotdale forty miles away; the memorable high land -of Flodden may also be distinguished; and, towards the sea, are the -castles of Warkworth, Bambro’, and Dunstanburgh; and beyond them, in a -fringe-like line, lies the sea itself. - -It is needless to say that the hospitality for which the lords of -Alnwick have been renowned since the first stone of the castle was laid -is still maintained within its princely walls; its list of “visitors” -during many centuries past has contained the names of those who were -not only the loftiest in rank but the most eminent in Art, Science, and -Letters. - -Its park and grounds are among the most perfect in the kingdom;[27] -successive lords have laboured to make them beautiful, and Nature had -given auspicious ground on which to work—hill and dell alternate; a -lovely and rapid, though narrow, river runs through them; on either -side are green banks, in many places overhung by the rich foliage -of varied trees; here and there views are obtained of the distant -hills—the Cheviots—with their thousand traditions of times happily -gone by, but which excite interest by their associations with heroic -deeds—and not unfrequently their “opposites”—of which every spot is -fertile on the border that separates Scotland from England. - -[Illustration: _The Brislee Tower._] - -Happily, there is now no sensation of jealousy or envy, nothing that -can either humiliate or exasperate, when the Scottishman boasts of -triumphs over his southern neighbours; nor when he admits that, often, -before the bold men of Northumberland he shrunk back in mortal dread. -The glories of the one have long ceased to be the degradations of the -other; and the spirit of rivalry is only that which has for its aim and -object the supremacy of the country of both. Will the happy time ever -arrive when the three kingdoms shall be as essentially one as the two -have been for centuries past? - - - - -HARDWICK HALL. - - -HARDWICK HALL may take rank among the more stately of the “homes of -England.” Stately in its outer aspect, stately in its antique furniture -and its interior fittings and appointments, and truly stately in its -associations, it is one of the most historically interesting, and -one of the most singular and picturesque, of the many “homes” whose -countless stores of natural beauties and acquired treasures are, -through the kindness and liberality of their owners, made accessible -alike to peer and peasant; while it is one of the fullest in its -historical associations, and in its power of carrying the mind of the -visitor back through a long vista of years to those stirring times -when “Good Queen Bess,” the strong-minded and strong-headed “master” -of its noble owner, sate on the throne of England. Hardwick and its -surroundings belong essentially to those times, and to the people who -moved prominently in them: the very furniture we see to-day pertains to -that eventful era—for not only is the building itself of the period to -which we refer, but so are even the “fittings;” the beds—for here is -the very bed used by Mary, Queen of Scots, and covered with needlework, -the work of her own fair hands; the tables around and at which sate -“Bess of Hardwick” with her historic family and brilliant friends; the -tapestry is that which then hung around them, and on which the eyes -of royalty and nobility have rested and “feasted with admiration;” -the screens, the chairs, the couches,—nay, almost all the objects -that meet the eye are of those stirring times, and have about them an -historic air which seems irresistibly to subdue the mind and to expand -the thoughts of the visitor. - -Even a _glance_ at the graces and beauties of Derbyshire would demand -far greater space than we can accord to them: for it is the shire of -all the English shires in which natural beauties are most happily -combined with cultivated graces; hill and dale alternate at every mile; -rich valleys, through which run fertilising rivers, shut in by mountain -rocks, tree-clad from base to summit; singular peaks, that seem as if -not formed by Nature, but the work of giant hands; delicious dells, -where rivulets sing perpetually, and myriad birds rejoice in spring or -summer. Other counties may be more sublimely grand, and others more -abundantly fertile, but there is none so truly rich in the picturesque; -whether of distant views or of by-paths up hill-sides, or through lanes -clothed in perpetual verdure. - -And then its history, a page of which may be read at every turn—the -Celt, the Roman, the Saxon, the Dane, the Norman, all the “peoples and -nations” that have made Britain their home, have left in this shire -enduring evidence of possession and progress; and many of its customs -remain unchanged, not only since the beacons were lit on Blakelow or -on Bruncliffe, but since the Baal fires were burning on Axe-Edge or -Chelmorton. - -Proofs of a milder occupancy, too, are to be found in abundance. -Nowhere are peaceful “Halls” more numerous—remains of prosperous -epochs: Haddon, of an early date; Wingfield and Hardwick, of a later -period; Chatsworth, of a time comparatively recent; and Kedleston, of -an age scarce removed from living memory,—are but a few of the many -that glorify this beautiful shire. No wonder, therefore, that it is the -county of all others to which the tourist is most frequently attracted. - -Surrounded on all sides by charming scenery, and the richest and most -abundant land, Hardwick stands in all its majesty and grace, and -forms—both in the distance, when a first glimpse of its bold outline -is gained from Brackenfield or other heights, or when viewed from -nearer points—a striking feature in the landscape. When approached -from one of the great centres for Derbyshire tourists, Matlock, the -drive is of peculiar interest, and may be, with profit to the future -visitor, briefly described. Leaving Matlock by way of Matlock Bridge, -the road passes through what is called Matlock Town, whose picturesque -church is seen overtopping the rocks to the right, where the graceful -bend of the river Derwent adds its beauties to the scene; thence -passing along the roadway, Riber—an immense and very steep hill—rises -to the right, and will be noticed as surmounted by the massive -modern erection of Riber Castle, the residence of Mr. Smedley, the -hydropathist. - -[Illustration: _Hardwick Hall, with the Entrance Gateway._] - -The road continues by Tansley, with its church, its mills, and its -pretty dales; Tansley, or Dethick, Moor, a wild unreclaimed tract of -moorland, purple with heather and untrammelled with fences; Washington, -with its village-green, its stocks, and its duck-ponds; Higham, a -picturesque village with an ancient cross; Shirland, with its fine -monuments, some of which are of remarkable character and full of -interest; Morton, with its pretty church and charming cottages; for -a short distance the coal district, with their pits and shafts and -ever-creaking engines; Pilsley and its pleasant lanes; Hardstoft and -Deeplane, to the lower entrance to the Park: through these and other -places of deep and varied interest we go, until we reach the Hardwick -Inn—a pretty house of entertainment close to the entrance to the -Park, from which a winding ascent of less than a mile leads to the -Hall. By this route some curious transitions from the lead-mining -district to that of coal, and from the limestone to the sandstone, -with their varied scenery and their diversified aspects, will be -noticed; and Derbyshire, rich both in minerals beneath the surface and -in arable, meadow, and pasture land on its face, as well as in rock, -and tree, and wood, and hill, will be seen to great advantage. From -Chesterfield, too, the road is beautiful; and the visitor may make a -delightful “day’s round” by driving direct to Hardwick by way of Temple -Normanton; Heath, with its truly picturesque and interesting church and -parsonage; Ault Hucknall, in the church of which are many monuments -of the Cavendish family, and where lies buried that sometime “world’s -wonder,” “Hobbes of Malmesbury;” thence through the lodge-gates and -down the fine old deer-park to the Hall, and then returning by way of -Bolsover Castle, a magnificent old building, the former residence of -the Cavendishes, Earls and Dukes of Newcastle, and rendered famous in -the Duke of Newcastle’s work on horsemanship, 1658, and now for many -years the residence of Mrs. Hamilton Gray, the authoress of “Etruria.” -But from whatever side Hardwick is approached, the land is full of -beauty, and rich in the picturesque. - -Hardwick Hall is one of the many princely seats—Chatsworth, Bolton -Abbey, Lismore Castle, Holker Hall, Compton Place, Eastbourne, and -Devonshire House, London, being among the others—of his Grace the -Duke of Devonshire, in which resides the duke’s eldest son and heir, -the Marquis of Hartington, M.P., at this time Her Majesty’s Secretary -of State for Ireland. It is distant from London about 140 miles, -from Derby 20 miles, from Chesterfield 9, and from Matlock 15 miles, -and these are perhaps the more general routes by which visitors will -proceed. Whatever road is taken, they will find natural beauties in -abundance greeting the eye at every mile of a delicious journey. - -Before we describe the venerable Hall, we give a brief history of -the noble family to which it now belongs, reserving that of its -predecessors for a later page. - -The family of Cavendish, of which his Grace the present Duke of -Devonshire, K.G., Lord Lieutenant of the county of Derby, is the -representative, traces back to the Conquest, when Robert de Gernon came -over with the Conqueror, and so distinguished himself in arms that -he was rewarded with considerable grants of land in Hertfordshire, -Gloucestershire, &c. His descendants held considerable land in -Derbyshire; and Sir William Gernon, who was one of the witnesses to -a confirmation charter of Henry III. to Basingdale Priory, obtained -a grant of a fair at Bakewell, in that county. He had two sons, Sir -Ralph de Gernon, lord of Bakewell, and Geoffrey de Gernon, of Moor -Hall, near Bakewell. From the second of these, Geoffrey de Gernon, the -Cavendishes are descended. His son, Roger de Gernon (who died 1334), -married the heiress of John Potton, or Potkins, Lord of the Manor -of Cavendish, in Suffolk, and by her had issue, four sons, who all -assumed the name of Cavendish from their mother’s manor. These were -Sir John Cavendish, Chief Justice of the King’s Bench, in the time -of Edward III., Chancellor of Cambridge, 4th of Richard II.; he was -beheaded by the insurgents of Suffolk in that reign; Roger Cavendish, -from whom descended the celebrated navigator, Sir Thomas Cavendish; -Stephen Cavendish, Lord Mayor, member of Parliament, and Sheriff of -London; and Richard Cavendish. Sir John married Alice, daughter of Sir -John Odyngseles, Chief Justice of the King’s Bench, who brought to her -husband the manor of Cavendish Overhall, and by her, who died before -him, had issue, two sons, Andrew and John, and a daughter, Alice, -married to William Nell. Sir Andrew Cavendish, the eldest son, was -Sheriff of Norfolk and Suffolk. By his wife, Rose, he left issue, one -son, William, from whom the estates passed to his cousin. Sir Andrew -was succeeded by his brother, Sir John Cavendish, Esquire of the Body -to Richard II. and Henry V., who, for his gallant conduct in killing -the rebel, Wat Tyler, in his conflict with Sir William Walworth, was -knighted by Richard II. in Smithfield, and an annuity of £40 per annum -granted to him and his sons for ever. He was also made broiderer of -the wardrobe to the king. He married Joan, daughter of Sir William -Clopton, of Clopton, in Suffolk; and by her had issue, three sons, -William, his successor; Robert, Serjeant-at-Law; and Walter. William -Cavendish, who was a citizen and mercer of London, and of Cavendish -Overhall, married Joan Staventon, by whom he had two sons, Thomas and -William. This Thomas Cavendish, who was of Cavendish and Pollingford, -in Suffolk, married Katherine Scudamore, and left by her, as son and -heir, Sir Thomas Cavendish, who, having studied the law, was employed -by Thomas, Earl of Surrey, Treasurer of the King’s Exchequer. He was -also Clerk of the Pipe in the Exchequer to Henry VIII.—the office of -the Clerk of the Pipe being to make out leases of Crown lands, accounts -of the sheriffs, &c. He married twice, and left, by his first wife, -Alice, daughter and co-heir of John Smith, of Podbrooke Hall, besides -other issue, three sons, George Cavendish, Sir William Cavendish, and -Sir Thomas Cavendish. - -George Cavendish, the eldest of these three sons, was of Glemsford, -and Cavendish Overhall, and is said to have been the author of -“Cavendish’s Life of Wolsey,” although the authorship of that work -is also attributed to his brother Sir William Cavendish. He received -a liberal education, and was endowed by his father with considerable -landed property in Suffolk. His character and learning seem to have -recommended him to the special notice of Cardinal Wolsey, who “took -him to be about his own person, as gentleman usher of his chamber, and -placed a special confidence in him.” George Cavendish was succeeded -by his son William; the latter was succeeded by his son William, who -passed away the manor of Cavendish Overhall to William Downes. - -Sir Thomas Cavendish was one of the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem, -and died unmarried. - -Sir William Cavendish, the second son of the first Sir Thomas, became -the founder of several noble families. He was married three times: -first to a daughter of Edward Bostock, of Whatcross in Cheshire; -secondly, to a daughter of Sir Thomas Conyngsby, and widow of William -Paris; and thirdly, to Elizabeth, daughter of John Hardwick, of -Hardwick, and widow of Robert Barley, of Barley. He was “a man of -learning and business,” and was much employed in important affairs by -his sovereigns; filling the posts of Treasurer of the Chamber and Privy -Councillor to Henry VIII., Edward VI., and Mary. At the suppression -of the religious houses under Henry VIII., he was “appointed one of -the Commissioners for visiting them, and afterwards was made one of -the auditors of the Court of Augmentation,” which was instituted -for the purpose of augmenting the revenues by the suppression of -the monasteries; for his services he received three valuable manors -in Hertfordshire which, later on, he exchanged for other lands, in -Derbyshire and other counties. He was also knighted by Henry VIII. By -his first wife he had issue, one son and two daughters who died young, -and two other daughters, one of whom, Catherine, married Sir Thomas -Brooke, son of Lord Cobham, and Anne, who married Sir Henry Baynton. -By his second wife he had three daughters, who all died young, and -she herself died in child-birth. By his third marriage, with “Bess -of Hardwick,” he had a numerous family, viz.:—Henry Cavendish, of -Tutbury, Member of Parliament for Derbyshire, who married Grace, -daughter of George, Earl of Shrewsbury, but died without lawful issue; -Sir William Cavendish, created Earl of Devonshire, of whom hereafter; -Sir Charles Cavendish, of Bolsover Castle and of Welbeck Abbey (whose -son, William Cavendish, by his first wife, was created Duke, Marquis, -and Earl of Newcastle, Baron Ogle, Baron Cavendish, of Bolsover, -Viscount Mansfield, K.G., Commander-in-Chief, &c., &c., and was the -author of the splendid work on Horsemanship, &c., and whose life was -charmingly written by his wife, Margaret Lucas, Maid of Honour to Queen -Henrietta), ancestor of the Dukes of Newcastle, Portland, &c.; Frances, -married to Sir Henry Pierrepoint, ancestor to the Dukes of Kingston; -Elizabeth, married to Charles Stuart, Duke of Lennox (younger brother -of Lord Darnley, the husband of Mary, Queen of Scots, and father of -King James I.), the issue of which marriage was the sadly unfortunate -lady, Arabella Stuart; and Mary, married to Gilbert, Earl of Shrewsbury. - -[Illustration: _The West Front._] - -Sir William Cavendish was created Baron Cavendish, of Hardwick, and -Earl of Devonshire, by King James I., “at which time of his creation, -his majesty stood under a cloth of state in the hall at Greenwich, -accompanied with the princes, his children, the Duke of Holstein, the -Duke of Lennox, and the greatest part of the nobility, both of England -and Scotland.” His lordship was one of the first adventurers who -settled a colony and plantation in Virginia, and on the discovery of -the Bermuda Islands, he and others had a grant of them from the king, -one of the cantons being called after him. He married twice—his first -wife being Anne, daughter of Henry Kighley, of Kighley, by whom he had -issue, besides William, his successor, Gilbert, who died without issue; -Frances, wife of Lord Maynard; and three others, who died in infancy: -by his second wife, Elizabeth, daughter of Sir Edward Boughton, and -widow of Sir Richard Wortley, he had a son, Sir John Cavendish. His -lordship’s successor was his second son, Sir William (who had been -under the tuition of Thomas Hobbes, of whom more will be said on -subsequent pages); he married Christian, only daughter of Edward, Lord -Bruce, of Kinloss, a kinswoman of the king, “who gave her, with his own -hand, and made her fortune ten thousand pounds.” By her he had three -sons and one daughter, viz.:—William, his successor; Charles, who was -Lieutenant-General of Horse to his cousin the Earl of Newcastle, and -was slain at Gainsborough; Henry, who died young; and Anne, wife of -Lord Rich, eldest son of the Earl of Warwick. - -William Cavendish, third Earl of Devonshire, was only ten years of age -when his father died, and he was placed, as we have just said, under -the care of Hobbes, who travelled and remained with him, and was, for -the rest of his life, supported by the earl’s family. The earl married -Elizabeth Cecil, daughter of the Earl of Salisbury, by whom he had two -sons, William (who succeeded him), Charles, and one daughter. William, -fourth Earl of Devonshire, before succeeding to the title, sat in the -Long Parliament for Derbyshire, and, as a youth, he was one of the -train-bearers to the king at his coronation. He was among the principal -persons who brought about the “Glorious Revolution” of 1688, and the -placing of William III. on the throne. He married Mary, daughter of the -Duke of Ormonde, and had issue by her, William, his successor; Henry, -James, and Elizabeth. His lordship was the rebuilder of Chatsworth, and -was by William III. advanced to the dignity of Marquis of Hartington -and Duke of Devonshire. He was succeeded in his titles and estates by -his son. His Grace died in 1707, and his funeral sermon, preached by -White Kennett, Bishop of Peterborough, has been many times printed, and -is attached to the memoirs of the family of Cavendish by that prelate. - -William Cavendish, second Duke and fifth Earl of Devonshire, was -Captain of the Yeomen of the Guard, and succeeded to all his father’s -appointments, among which were Lord Steward of the Household, Privy -Councillor, Lord Warden and Chief Justice in Eyre of all places north -of the Trent, Lord-Lieutenant, K.G.; he was also constituted one of the -regents of the kingdom. He married Rachel, daughter of William Lord -Russell, and by her had issue, with several others, his successor, -William, who became third Duke of Devonshire, and married Catherine, -heiress of John Hoskins, by whom he had a numerous family. His Grace -held many important posts in the State; among which were those of Lord -Lieutenant of Ireland, Lord Lieutenant of Derbyshire, Lord Keeper of -the Privy Seal, Lord Steward of the Household, and Lord Justiceship for -the administration of Government during his Majesty’s absence. He was -succeeded by his son— - -William, fourth Duke of Devonshire, who was, during his father’s -lifetime, called to the Upper House by his title, hitherto of courtesy, -of Marquis of Hartington. He was appointed Master of the Horse and -a Privy Councillor. In 1754 he was one of the Lords of the Regency, -and Governor of the County of Cork; in the following year he was Lord -High Treasurer of Ireland; and in 1756 was Lord Lieutenant of Ireland, -and First Commissioner of the Treasury. In 1757 he was Chamberlain of -the Household to the king, and held, besides, many other offices. His -Grace married Charlotte, daughter, and ultimately heiress, of Richard -Boyle, Earl of Burlington and Cork, by which union—the lady being -Baroness Clifford in her own right—the Barony of Clifford came into -the Cavendish family. By this issue he had three sons and one daughter, -viz.:—William, who succeeded him; Richard, who died unmarried; George -Augustus Henry, created Earl of Burlington, from whom the present -noble representative of the House of Cavendish, the seventh Duke of -Devonshire, is descended; and Dorothy, married to the Duke of Portland. - -William, fifth Duke of Devonshire, the eldest son of the last named -peer, was married twice: first, to the Lady Georgiana, daughter of -Earl Spencer, one of the most accomplished and elegant women of the -time, and who is perhaps better known as “The Beautiful Duchess” than -by any other name; and, secondly, to Lady Elizabeth Foster, daughter -of the Earl of Bristol, and widow of John Thomas Foster, Esq. By the -“Beautiful Duchess” his grace had issue, one son, William Spencer -Cavendish, who succeeded him, and two daughters: Georgiana, married to -the Earl of Carlisle; and Harriet Elizabeth, married to Earl Granville. -On his death, in 1811, the title and estates passed to his only son— - -William Spencer Cavendish, sixth Duke and ninth Earl of Devonshire, one -of the most liberal-minded of men and one of the most genuine patrons -of Art and Literature. His Grace, whose career earned for him the -proud title of “The good Duke”—a title which, with all his others, -has descended to his successor—was born in Paris in 1790, and besides -holding office as Lord High Chamberlain, &c., went in a style of -more than princely splendour on an embassy to Russia from the British -Court, and so conducted that important mission as to gain exceeding -distinction and general applause. His Grace, who never married, -died in 1858, and was succeeded in his titles and estates—with the -exception of the Barony of Clidord, which fell in abeyance between his -sisters—by his second cousin, the present noble peer, who, as we have -said, was grandson to the first Earl of Burlington, brother to the -fifth duke. - -[Illustration: _The Great Hall._] - -The present peer, William Cavendish, Duke of Devonshire, Marquis of -Hartington, Earl of Devonshire, Earl of Burlington, Baron Cavendish -of Hardwick, Baron Cavendish of Keighley, &c., &c., K.G., LL.D., -F.R.S., Lord Lieutenant and Custos Rotulorum of the County of Derby, -Chancellor of the University of Cambridge, Steward of the Borough -of Derby, &c., &c., was born in 1808, and was educated at Eton, and -at Trinity College, Cambridge, where he graduated as M.A., and was -Second Wrangler, Senior Smith’s Prizeman, and in the first class -of the Classical Tripos, 1829. In the same year he became M.P. for -the University of Cambridge, which he held until 1831, when he -was returned for Malton, and afterwards for North Derbyshire, for -which constituency he sat until he succeeded his father as Earl of -Burlington, in 1834. In 1856 he was made Lord Lieutenant of Lancashire, -a post he held until 1858, when, on attaining to the Dukedom of -Devonshire, he was appointed Lord Lieutenant of Derbyshire. From 1836 -to 1856 he was Chancellor of the University of London, and he has held, -and still holds, several other important offices. In 1829 his Grace, -then Mr. Cavendish, married his cousin, the Lady Blanche Georgiana -Howard, fourth daughter of George, sixth Earl of Carlisle, by the Lady -Georgiana Dorothy Cavendish, daughter of the fifth Duke of Devonshire. -By this truly estimable lady, who died in 1840, his Grace had surviving -issue, three sons and one daughter, viz.:—Spencer Compton Cavendish, -Marquis of Hartington; Lord Frederick Charles Cavendish, M.P. for -the West Riding of Yorkshire, Private Secretary to the Right Hon. W. -E. Gladstone, married to the Hon. Lucy Caroline, daughter of Baron -Lyttelton; Lord Edward Cavendish, late M.P. for East Sussex, married to -Emma, daughter of the late Hon. William Lascelles; and the Lady Louisa -Cavendish, married to Rear-Admiral the Hon. Francis Egerton, M.P. for -East Derbyshire, brother to the late, and uncle to the present, Earl of -Ellesmere. - -The Marquis of Hartington, the heir to the titles and estates, was -born in 1833, and was educated at Trinity College, Cambridge, where he -graduated as B.A. in 1852, M.A. in 1854, and LL.D. in 1862. He is a -Privy Councillor, and was Lord of the Admiralty in 1863, Undersecretary -of State for War from 1863 to 1866; Secretary of State for War in 1866; -and Postmaster-General from 1868 to 1871. He was attached to Lord -Granville’s special mission to Russia in 1856, and has filled many -important posts. His lordship, who is unmarried, is M.P. for Radnor, -and is now Secretary of State for Ireland. - -Lord George Henry Cavendish, brother to the Duke of Devonshire, is M.P. -for North Derbyshire, which constituency he has represented since the -year 1834. He married in 1835 the Lady Louisa, daughter of the Earl -of Harewood. Lord Richard Cavendish, another brother of the duke, is -unmarried. - -His Grace is patron of thirty-nine livings, and in Derbyshire alone is -Lord of the Manor of forty-six places. - -The arms of the duke are—_Sable_, three harts’ heads, caboshed, -_argent_, attired _or_. Crest, a serpent, noued, _proper_. Supporters, -two bucks, _proper_, each wreathed round the neck with a chaplet of -roses, alternately _argent_ and _azure_. - -We now, for the present, leave the genealogical part of our story to -turn to the attractions of the interior of the Hall. Of the exterior -and interior of the old hall and their surroundings we shall speak -later on. - -[Illustration: _The Grand Staircase._] - -Passing through the entrance gateway, shown in one of our -illustrations, the visitor to Hardwick will see before him, across -the quadrangular space laid out in magnificent flower-beds in the -pure Elizabethan style—the most striking feature of which are two -immense beds, one on either side the central pathway, formed in the -shape of the letters E and S, the initials of Elizabeth, Countess of -Shrewsbury—in all its grandeur, the principal front of the Hall, which -bears out to the full the truth of the common saying— - - “Hardwick Hall, - More glass than wall.” - -The house is in reality “all windows,” and has a peculiarity of -appearance possessed by no other existing mansion. Passing under the -colonnade, seen in the centre of the building in our illustration on -page 122, the visitor arrives at the entrance door, and will, before -entering, do well to glance at an inscription, now nearly defaced, on -one of the pillars:— - - “Hic locus est quem si verbis audacia detur - Haud meum magni dixisse palatia coeli,” - -which may be thus freely rendered:— - - “Could any adventurous muse these portals sing, - No more to Heaven’s gate her flight she’d wing.” - -The GREAT HALL, which is first entered, is of considerable magnitude, -and very lofty, taking in the whole height of two stories of the noble -building. Its lower part is wainscoted; its upper, hung with fine -Gobelins tapestry. Along one side stands an enormous and massive oak -table, and carved chairs and seats in abundance are ranged around the -room. Over the entrance end a spacious gallery, supported on pillars, -leads from the dining-room to the drawing-room, on the first floor; and -at the opposite end is a charming piece of sculpture, a full-length -statue of Mary, Queen of Scots, by Westmacott, with the inscription— - - “Maria Scotorum Regina - Nata 1542 - A suis in exilium acta 1568 - Ab hospita neci data 1587.” - -On the wall over this is a large and very curious cartoon full-length -figure of Henry VIII. On the wainscot and in different parts of the -hall are some fine antlers, a series of helmets and breastplates, and -other relics; while over the fire-place, which is of great size and -beauty, and has its original brass fire-dogs, are the arms of the -foundress of the house, Elizabeth (Hardwick), Countess of Shrewsbury, -of gigantic size, in raised plaster-work. Some remarks here seem -requisite concerning the heraldry of the place. The arms represented in -the great hall, and shown in our engraving of that splendid apartment, -are _argent_, a saltire, engrailed, _azure_; on a chief of the second -three cinquefoils of the field. These, which are in a lozenge-shaped -shield, are surmounted by an earl’s coronet, and have for supporters, -two stags, _proper_, each gorged with a chaplet of roses, _argent_, -between two bars _azure_. The arms are those of Hardwick of Hardwick, -the maiden name of the Countess; the supporters, which she had no -right to assume, the family of Hardwick not being entitled to any, -were assumed from the crest of that family, which, with a slight -variation, formed those granted to her son, the first Baron Cavendish, -of Hardwick, and Earl of Devonshire. The coronet is, of course, hers as -Countess of Shrewsbury, the hall being built during the latter part of -the life of her _fourth_ husband, the Earl of Shrewsbury, and in the -first nine years of her fourth widowhood. From the Great Hall a wide -passage to the right leads to the grand staircase, the muniment-room, -the sitting and other rooms, on the ground-floor, and, to the left, -to the kitchens and offices, and to another staircase. Ascending -these massive stone stairs hung with framed pieces of needlework and -with curious old paintings, some of which are dated 1576, and were -principally brought from the old hall, an open oak screen-work on the -landing opens into - -[Illustration: _The Chapel._] - -THE CHAPEL. In this truly interesting little room, the walls are -notable for being partly hung with painted tapestry of extremely good -character, and the only examples in the house. On the ceiling is a fine -piece of tapestry, representing our Lord, with two of His disciples, -blessing the bread. The pulpit is dressed with some of the earliest -embroidery—portions of a cope, &c.; and on the rails hangs a very rich -and curious altar-cloth, 80 feet long, with figures of saints under -canopies, wrought in very rich and early needlework. The chapel is -shown in one of our illustrations. On the landing hangs a remarkably -curious lantern. - -Opposite to the chapel, a doorway opens into the DINING-ROOM, a noble -apartment, the lower part of the walls being wainscoted, and the -upper hung with a number of family portraits, amongst which are an -interesting painting of “Bess of Hardwick,” with this inscription upon -it:—“Elizabeth Hardwick, daughter and co-heir of John Hardwick, of -Hardwick, in the county of Derby. To her second husband, Sir William -Cavendish, of Chatsworth, in the same county. She settled her third -son, Sir Charles Cavendish, at Welbeck, in the county of Nottingham.” -Other portraits are those of her husband, Sir William Cavendish, at -the age of forty-four; “the Beautiful Duchess,” Georgiana, Duchess of -Devonshire; the late Duke of Devonshire; Lord George Cavendish, second -son of the third duke, known as “Truth and Daylight,” &c., &c. Over the -fire-place is a fine specimen of parget-work, a kind of plaster-stone, -with figures, &c., and in the centre the inscription, “The conclusion -of all things is to feare God and keepe his Commaundementes,” and the -conjoined initials E.S. with the date 1597. The large recess of this -room is converted into a billiard-room. - -The CUT-VELVET ROOM, leading from the dining-room, is a noble -apartment, hung with tapestry, and containing a stately bed with -plumes. Over the fire-place, in parget-work, as in other rooms, is -a series of armorial bearings, among which again occur the arms of -Hardwick, with supporters and coronet. Adjoining this is a charming -dressing-room, hung with the most exquisite needlework in silk. Passing -down the minstrels’ gallery from the dining-room to the drawing-room, -some fine specimens of needlework, by the Countess of Shrewsbury, and -by Mary, Queen of Scots, are carefully preserved in frames. - -The DRAWING-ROOM is a large well-proportioned apartment, the lower part -of the walls wainscoted, and the upper hung with fine old tapestry, -representing the story of Esther and Ahasuerus. Over the fire-place -are the arms of Hardwick, with quarterings, in a lozenge shield, -supporters, and coronet. Among the paintings will be specially noticed -a fine portrait of Arabella Stuart, several portraits by Holbein, and -others of Henry VII. and VIII., Edward VI., &c., &c. There are, also, -some curious pieces of needlework, framed. - -[Illustration: _The Presence Chamber._] - -From the drawing-room the DUKE’S BED ROOM, and other apartments, -are reached. This room, so called because it is the room occupied -by the late Duke of Devonshire, and in which he died, is a splendid -apartment, hung with tapestry representing scriptural subjects. -Over the fire-place, which has large carved figures in stone on -either side, is a fine piece of parget-work surrounding a painting. -On the bed a curious needlework counterpane invites attention. The -dressing-room adjoining is one of the most interesting in the house. -It is hung with silk needlework tapestry of the finest and most choice -character, one piece of which bears the date of 1574. There are also -paintings of the entombment of our Saviour, and of the Annunciation, -with the arms, in tapestry, of the Cavendishes, Talbots, and others. -Near this room is the bed-room occupied, on his occasional visits to -Hardwick, by the present duke, on the tapestry of which cupids are -represented playing at mall—the progenitor, apparently, of our modern -croquet. Near this, too, is the Marquis of Hartington’s room, in -which are several interesting coats of arms in parget-work, including -the bearings of Hardwick, Cavendish, Talbot, and others. Returning -through the drawing-room, the visitor next passes out to the GRAND -STAIRCASE, of which we give an engraving. Near the drawing-room door -will be noticed a fine old chest, said to have belonged to the Earl -of Shrewsbury. The staircase is hung with some of the finest tapestry -which any house can boast. One portion represents a classical story; -the boar-hunts and similar subjects are fine, and powerful in the -extreme. On the second landing is an interesting inlaid table with the -arms of Hardwick impaling Talbot, and on the wall by it hangs some of -the oldest tapestry in the house. Continuing up the staircase, with -tapestry on either side, the state-rooms are approached. The entrance -is by a doorway surmounted by the Hardwick arms, over which is the most -gorgeously fine piece of tapestry, representing Juno. On the door a -marvellously beautiful lock is still preserved. It, with the arms of -Hardwick, forms one of our initial letters. This door opens into the - -PRESENCE-CHAMBER, State-Room, or Audience-Room, as it is variously -called. This splendid apartment, which is 65 feet long, 33 feet wide, -and 26 feet in height, is one of the finest proportioned and most -imposing in appearance even in this perfect house. The upper portion -of the walls of this magnificent chamber is covered with parget-work -in high coloured-relief, representing hunting scenes, Orpheus, and the -court of Diana. Below this, for full 15 feet in height, the walls are -hung with tapestry of the finest character. - -Over the fire-place of this room are the arms and supporters of Queen -Elizabeth, in coloured relief parget-work. The furniture is remarkably -fine, as will be seen from our engraving of this room. At the north -end is a majestic canopy, decorated in minute needlework with figures -of the cardinal virtues, “Verecundia,” “Prudentia,” “Sobrietas,” -&c., alternating with monograms and arms of the family. Under the -canopy is a state-chair; and in front, one of the most curious and -interesting tables in existence. It is of large size, and elaborately -inlaid over the entire surface of its top with musical instruments of -various kinds, backgammon and chess boards, cards, and various games, -foliage and other devices. In its centre is a tablet with the quaint -inscription:— - - THE REDOLENT SMLE - OF ÆGLENTYNE - WE STAGGES EXAVLT - TO THE DEVEYNE. - -The “stagges” being, no doubt, the stags of the Hardwick arms. On -each side of the tablet are the arms of Hardwick and Talbot impaled, -&c. From this room a doorway in the tapestry opens into the -picture-gallery, and another at the north end leads into the LIBRARY, -over the chimney-piece of which is a splendid piece of sculpture, -Apollo and the Muses; over the figures on one side are the arms of -Queen Elizabeth, and on the other her initials, E. R., in a knot, and -crowned. This fine group, found not many years ago in a case in one of -the servants’ rooms at Chatsworth, is supposed to have been presented -to the countess by Queen Elizabeth, and it has, therefore, been most -appropriately brought and placed in its present position. In this -room, among other interesting pictures, is a portrait of James V. of -Scotland, when very young. It belonged to Queen Mary, and was taken -with her from place to place. Passing through the library and the GREEN -BED-ROOM, where the majestic state-bed and the tapestry are sure to -excite attention, one of the most interesting little rooms in the whole -building is gained:— - -[Illustration: _Mary Queen of Scots’ Room._] - -MARY QUEEN OF SCOTS’ ROOM—a room which, it appears to us, the Countess -of Shrewsbury prepared expressly for the reception of the furniture -used by the truly unfortunate captive who had for so many years been a -prisoner in charge of her and her husband, and in which, when finished, -she placed her bed and other furniture, so as to preserve them as -precious relics. On the panels of the wainscoting of the room are the -initials of the countess, E.S., with the coronet and the date 1599; -and on the door the same date twice occurs. The woodwork is “tricked” -in arabesque patterns; over the door, on the interior side, are carved -the royal arms of Scotland, with the order of St. Andrew, supporters, -crown, &c., and the letters M. S., and the motto, IN · MY · DE · FENS. -Around the whole is the inscription, MARIE · STEWART · PAR · LA · GRACE -· DE · DIEV · ROYNE · DE · SCOSSE · DOVARIERE · DE · FRANCE. Over the -fire-place, in parget-work, are the arms of Hardwick in lozenge, with -coronet and supporters; the arms of Hardwick impaling Leake; and those -of Cavendish, with a crescent for difference, impaling _argent_ a fesse -_gules_. The bed—the very one in which the poor queen lay during a -part of her captivity—is adorned with the work of her own hands, -bearing her monogram. The counterpane, too, is an elaborate piece of -needlework, said to be her own work; and some of the furniture is of -the same period. We have engraved this historically interesting room as -one of our illustrations. - -Near this is the BLUE BED-ROOM, hung with tapestry, and containing a -noble bed, hung with blue, to which needlework by Christian Bruce, -Countess of Devonshire, has been transferred with much judgment and -care. Over the chimney-piece is the “Marriage of Tobias.” Other -bed-rooms adjoin, which it is not necessary to notice. - -The PICTURE-GALLERY, the “great glory” of Hardwick, occupies the -entire length of the building from north to south, on the upper floor -of its eastern front. Its length is 170 feet, and its width 40 feet, -including the recessed windows; its height being 26 feet. The walls -of this superb gallery are hung with the finest tapestry, almost -hidden, however, by the magnificent assemblage of portraits with -which it is, as will be seen from our engraving, literally covered. -The tapestry here is, as has been said, remarkably fine, and is very -early, some of it bearing the date of 1478. It was brought from the old -mansion and from Chatsworth. The gallery is lit by eighteen enormous -windows, each 20 feet in height, on its eastern side, which is deeply -recessed. In the centre of this side is a gorgeous canopy over the -state seat, bearing the monogram of W.D., with a coronet; and on the -western side are two gigantic chimney-pieces, reaching from the floor -to the cornice, composed of Derbyshire black marble, alabaster, and -other marbles, one bearing in the centre of its upper height a finely -sculptured figure of Pity, and the other that of Justice. They are -said to be the work of “Stephens, a Flemish sculptor, or of Valerio -Vicentino.” The ceiling is of geometric design, in raised plaster-work; -it gives that finish to the room which is wanting in other of the -apartments. The upper portion of the walls, above the wainscoting and -arras, is worked in panels and festoons. - -[Illustration: _The Picture-Gallery._] - -The furniture is of the most costly and curious character, and in -perfect preservation. Much of it, indeed, belongs to the time, or to a -time not much later, when the house was constructed, and indicates the -artistic feeling and manual dexterity of the foundress. Here are beds -of state, with their curtains of black and silver; Venetian velvets and -damascenes; “cloth of Raynes to slepe on softe,” and hangings “raied -with gold;” hard cushions of blue baudekyn; high-seated chairs, covered -with samit and powdered with flowers, yet most uncomfortable for use; -screens of crimson velvet, covered with patterns worked in silver -wires; couches, every portion of which is thickly overlaid with threads -of silver and of gold; tables with legs twisted and turned about -in the most picturesque manner; fire-dogs of gorgeous description; -and a magnificent giant-glass, with the arms of Devonshire impaling -Ormonde—these are among the beauties which greet the eye at every -turn in its progress through Hardwick. - -As we said at the commencement of this chapter, there is no place so -likely as Hardwick to carry the mind back to those times which we have -indicated and to which it belongs. One is unresistingly and forcibly -carried by the imagination back to the time of Elizabeth, and while -pacing along through these rooms, we are led, “in the mind’s eye,” to -people them with the forms of those who lived and moved and had their -being within its walls. - -To the paintings in the picture-gallery and those scattered through the -several rooms, the dining-room more especially, we can but make slight -reference. They count some hundreds of the finest and most historically -interesting portraits of which any mansion can boast. To enumerate them -would occupy a dozen of our pages: we must, therefore, be content to -say that among them are original portraits of Queen Elizabeth; of Mary, -Queen of Scots; of Elizabeth, Queen of Bohemia; of Arabella Stuart; of -the foundress of the building, “Bess of Hardwick,” afterwards Countess -of Shrewsbury; of Kings Henry VII. and Henry VIII.; of Georgiana, the -“Beautiful Duchess” of Devonshire; of Robert Boyle, the philosopher; of -the seventh and unfortunate Earl of Derby; of Lord Treasurer Burleigh; -of Queen Mary; of Sir William St. Loe, third husband of “Bess of -Hardwick;” of George, sixth Earl of Shrewsbury; of Henry VII. and Henry -VIII., cartoons by Holbein; of James V. of Scotland, and his queen; of -Gilbert, Earl of Shrewsbury; of Mary, Countess of Shrewsbury; of Lady -Grace Talbot; of several distinguished members of the Clifford family; -of Queen Catherine of Arragon; of Christian, Countess of Devonshire; -of Lady Jane Seymour; of Elizabeth, Countess of Devonshire; of the -first Duke of Ormond; of Rachel, Duchess of Devonshire; of Edward -Russell, Duke of Bedford; of John, first Duke of Rutland; of Henry -Fitzalan, Earl of Arundel; of William, Lord Russell; of the Marchioness -of Hartington; of Queen Anne; of Frederick, Prince of Wales; of King -William III.; of King George III.; of King James I.; of Sir Robert -Walpole; of Francis Bacon, Lord Verulam; of the Princess of Orange; and -of most of the noted men of the time; of numerous celebrities of the -Cavendish family and their alliances; and of Thomas Hobbes—“Leviathan -Hobbes,” or “Hobbes of Malmesbury,” as he is called. - -From the leads of Hardwick Hall, which are gained by a spacious -staircase, the upper rooms of the towers are reached, and a magnificent -view of the surrounding country is obtained. - -[Illustration] - -Having described HARDWICK HALL as it now exists, and given a brief -history of the noble family of Cavendish to whom it belongs, we -resume the subject, to speak of the older mansion, now in ruins; of -the Hardwicks to whom it belonged; of the marvellous daughter of that -house, “Bess of Hardwick,” and her alliances; and of AULT HUCKNALL, the -parish church, and its many monuments, among which is that to the great -philosopher, “Hobbes of Malmesbury,” who lived and died at Hardwick. - -And, first, as to the family. - -The family of Hardwick is one of considerable antiquity in the county -of Derby, although now extinct, and was for several generations settled -at Hardwick, from which place, indeed, it is probable the name was -assumed. - -In 1203 the manor of Hardwick was granted by King John to Andrew de -Beauchamp, but in 1288 it was held of John le Savage—who owned the -neighbouring manor of Steynsby, and was probably of the same family -as the later Savages, of Castleton and other places—by William de -Steynsby, by the annual render of _three pounds of cinnamon and one -pound of pepper_. The grandson of William de Steynsby, John Steynsby, -died seized of the manor in 1330. It afterwards passed into the -hands of the Hardwicks, and was held by them until it passed to the -Cavendishes by the marriage of the heiress to Sir William Cavendish. -The first of the Hardwick family known was William, who married the -daughter of Goushill, of Barlborough (which family of Goushill, in -the time of Henry III., married the heiress of Hathersage, and whose -heiress, in the sixteenth century, married Wingfield), and by her had -two sons, Roger and William, the latter of whom was living in the -thirty-second year of Henry VI. Roger Hardwick, of Hardwick, married -the daughter of Robert Barley, of Barley, and had issue by her, John, -who succeeded him. John Hardwick, of Hardwick, married Elizabeth, -daughter of Henry Bakewell, of Bakewell, one of the co-heiresses of -which family married Linacre before the year 1400. By her he had -issue, a son, John Hardwick, who, marrying Elizabeth, daughter of — -Pinchbeck, of Pinchbeck, was, in turn, succeeded by his son, John -Hardwick, who married Elizabeth, daughter of Thomas Leake, of Hasland, -a younger branch of the Leakes, Earls of Scarsdale. By this lady -John Hardwick, who died January 24, 1527, had issue, one son and four -daughters, viz., John, Mary, Elizabeth, Alice, and Jane. John Hardwick, -the last male representative of the family, who was only three years -old at his father’s death, married Elizabeth, daughter of Philip -Draycott, of Paynsley, but died without issue, leaving his sisters his -co-heiresses. Of these, Mary married, first, Wingfield, and, second, -one of the Pollards, of Devonshire, who was Gentleman Usher to the -Queen; Alice married Francis Leech, of Chatsworth, and died without -issue; Jane married Godfrey Bosville of Gunthwaite; and Elizabeth -(“Bess of Hardwick”) married, first, Robert Barley, of Barley; second, -Sir William Cavendish; third, Sir William St. Loe; and fourth, Gilbert, -Earl of Shrewsbury. The Francis Leech just named, who married “Bess’s” -sister Alice, was the last of his family. He sold Chatsworth to Agard, -who resold it to the second husband of “Bess,” Sir William Cavendish, -by whom it was rebuilt in almost regal magnificence. - -Elizabeth Hardwick was, it will have been seen, one of the co-heiresses -of her father, and ultimately heiress to her brother, from whom she -inherited Hardwick and other estates. She was a most remarkable, -clever, and accomplished woman, and one of the most successful, in her -many marriages, in her acquisition of property, in the alliances of her -family, and in the erection of magnificent mansions; and no account -of Hardwick would be complete without, at all events, a brief notice -of her extraordinary and brilliant career. When very young—indeed, -it is said, when scarcely fourteen years of age—Elizabeth Hardwick -became the wife of Robert Barley, of Barley (or Barlow), in the -county of Derby, son of Arthur Barley, of Barley-by-Dronfield, by his -wife, Elizabeth Chaworth. This young gentleman, who was devotedly -attached to his young and charming wife, died within a few months -after their marriage, leaving his possessions to her. By this short -marriage there was no issue. Remaining a young, indeed childlike, widow -for some twelve years or thereabouts, she then married Sir William -Cavendish, as detailed in our former chapter, and so brought to him -the possessions of the Hardwicks, which she had inherited from her -father and brother, as well as those of the Barleys, acquired by her -first marriage. By Sir William Cavendish she had a family of three -sons and three daughters, viz., Henry Cavendish, of Tutbury, ancestor -of the Barons Waterpark; Sir William Cavendish, of Chatsworth, created -Baron Cavendish of Hardwick, and Earl of Devonshire, and ancestor -of the present Ducal house of Devonshire; Sir Charles Cavendish, of -Bolsover Castle, ancestor of the Barons Cavendish, Viscounts Mansfield, -Earls, Marquises, and Dukes of Newcastle; Frances, wife of the Duke of -Kingston; Elizabeth, wife of Charles Stuart, Duke of Lennox, and mother -by him of Arabella Stuart; and Mary, wife of Gilbert, seventh Earl of -Shrewsbury. - -[Illustration: _Hardwick Hall, from the Park._] - -Sir William Cavendish died in 1557, and his lady was thus a second time -left a widow. A few years later she married her third husband, Sir -William St. Loe, Captain of the Guard to Queen Elizabeth, “owner of a -great estate, which,” as Bishop Kennett says, “in articles of marriage -she took care should be settled on her and her own heirs, in default of -issue; and, accordingly, having no child by him, she liv’d to enjoy his -whole estate, excluding his former daughters and brothers;” thus adding -his property to the already immense possessions she had acquired in her -own right and by her two former marriages. The death of Sir William -left her for the third time a widow; but she was soon after wooed and -won by George, sixth Earl of Shrewsbury, who had not long before lost -his countess, Gertrude Manners, daughter of the Earl of Rutland. Before -she would consent, however, to be united to the first peer of the -realm, she stipulated that he should give his daughter to her eldest -son, and that Gilbert Talbot, his second son (the eldest being already -married) should espouse her youngest daughter. These family nuptials -were solemnised at Sheffield on the 9th of February, 1567-8; her -daughter being at the time not quite twelve years old, and her husband -being under fifteen. Gilbert Talbot became seventh Earl of Shrewsbury. - -The history of the events of her life while Countess of Shrewsbury -is that of the kingdom at large; for it was during this time, from -1568 to 1584, that Mary, Queen of Scots, was confided to the care of -the earl and his lady, and by them was kept a close prisoner. Into -these annals—known by every student of English history—it is not our -province now to enter. Suffice it to say, that the wearisome task, -imposed by a rigorous and arbitrary sovereign, was executed with a -zeal and with a diligence that were worthy a far better cause. In 1568 -the earl received from his royal mistress the intimation of the trust -she was about to confide to him, and on the 20th of the following -January, 1569, the order for removing Mary from Bolton to Tutbury was -made. Here the poor captive was received by the Earl and Countess of -Shrewsbury; and here, kept a close prisoner, she remained for several -months, passing her time as best she might in needlework. “I asked -hir grace,” says White, “sence the wether did cutt of all exercises -abrode, howe passed the tyme within? She sayd that all the day she -wrought with hir nydill, and that the diversitie of the colours made -the worke seme lesse tedious, and contynued so long at it till veray -payn made hir to give over; and with that layd hir hand upon hir left -syde and complayned of an old grief newely increased there.” In June -the earl removed her to Wingfield Manor, in Derbyshire, now, like -Tutbury itself, a splendid ruin; and later on in the same year back -again to Tutbury. In 1570 Mary was removed to Chatsworth, and from -thence to Sheffield, also now a ruin. Here she remained, occasionally -staying at Chatsworth for some length of time. In 1584 she was again -removed to Wingfield, in 1585 to Tutbury, and in the following year to -Chartley, to Fotheringhay, and that fatal block, which will ever remain -a dark blot on the escutcheon of “good Queen Bess.” It is a somewhat -remarkable circumstance, touching the captivity of Mary under the -constableship of the Earl of Shrewsbury, that the places belonging to -him where she was confined, Sheffield Castle and Manor, Tutbury Castle, -Wingfield Manor, and Chartley (as well as Fotheringhay, where she was -executed), have all fallen to ruin, while Chatsworth and other places -which belonged to the countess still flourish. - -It is not certain, although there is every probability that such was -the case, that Mary was ever at Hardwick. There can be but little doubt -she spent, at all events, a few days there; but this would, of course, -be at the old Hall, as will be shown later on. - -The Earl of Shrewsbury, about whom strange rumours regarding his -conduct and intentions towards his captive at the time of his -discharge from his trust were afloat, and over whom a female domestic, -Eleanor Britton, had gained an injurious ascendency, afterwards, in -consequence, living a not very happy life with his second countess, -died in 1590; and thus “Bess of Hardwick” became, for the fourth time, -a widow. “A change of conditions,” says Bishop Kennett, “that, perhaps, -never fell to the lot of one woman, to be four times a creditable and -happy wife, to rise by every husband into greater wealth and higher -honours, to have a numerous issue by one husband only; to have all -those children live, and all, by her advice, be creditably disposed of -in her lifetime; and, after all, to live seventeen years a widow in -absolute power and plenty.” - -The countess, besides being one of the most beautiful, accomplished, -and captivating women of her day, was, without exception, the most -energetic, business-like, and able of her sex. In architecture her -conceptions were grand; while in all matters pertaining to the Arts, -and to comforts and elegancies of life, she was unsurpassed. To -the old Hall of her fathers, where she was born and resided, she -made vast additions—indeed, so much so as almost to amount to a -recreation of the place; and she entirely planned and built three of -the most gorgeous edifices of the time—Hardwick Hall, Chatsworth, and -Oldcotes—the first two of which were transmitted entire to the first -Duke of Devonshire. “At Hardwick she left the ancient seat of her -family standing, and at a small distance, still adjoining to her new -fabric, _as if she had a mind to preserve her Cradle, and set it by her -Bed of State_,” as Kennett so poetically expresses it. - -Her “Bed of State”—the present Hall, erected by her—we have already -described. Her “Cradle”—the old Hall, wherein she was born and nursed, -but which is now in ruins—we shall describe presently. - -The latter part of her long and busy life she occupied almost entirely -in building, and it is marvellous what an amount of real work—hard -figures and dry details—she got through; for it is a fact, abundantly -evidenced by the original accounts, remaining to this day, that not a -penny was expended on her buildings, and not a detail added or taken -away, without her special attention and personal supervision. Building -was a passion with her, and she indulged it wisely and well, sparing -neither time, nor trouble, nor outlay, to secure everything being done -in the most admirable manner. It is said, and it is so recorded by -Walpole, that the countess had once been told by a gipsy fortune-teller -that she would never die so long as she continued building, and she so -implicitly believed this, that she never ceased planning and contriving -and adding to her erections; and it is said that at last she died in a -hard frost, which totally prevented the workmen from continuing their -labours, and so caused an unavoidable suspension of her works. Surely -the fortune-teller here was a “wise woman” in more senses than one; -for it was wise and cunning in her to instil such a belief into the -countess’s mind, and thus insure a continuance of the works by which so -many workmen and their families gained a livelihood, and by which later -generations would also benefit. - -[Illustration: _The Old Hall at Hardwick._] - -Besides Hardwick, Chatsworth (for which a good part of the old Hall at -Hardwick was, at a later period, removed), Oldcotes, and other places, -the countess founded and built the Devonshire Almshouses at Derby, and -did many other good and noble works. She died, full of years and full -of honours and riches, on the 23rd of February, 1607, and was buried in -All Saints’ Church, Derby, under a stately tomb which she had erected -during her lifetime, and on which a long Latin inscription is to be -seen. - -Of the countess—the “Bess of Hardwick,” who was one of the greatest -of the subjects of that other “Bess” who sat on the throne of -England—portraits are still preserved at Hardwick, and show that she -must have been, as Dugdale says of her, “faire and beautiful.” Whatever -faults of temper or of disposition she had—and she is said to have -had plenty of both—she had good qualities which, perhaps, outbalanced -them; and she, at all events, founded one of the most brilliant -houses—that of Cavendish—which this nation has ever produced. - -The old Hall at Hardwick, of the ruins of which we give an engraving, -was, in its palmy days, a place of considerable extent and beauty, -and from its charming situation—being built on the edge of a rocky -eminence overlooking an immense tract of country—must have been a most -desirable residence. In it a long line of the ancestors of the countess -were born, and lived, and died; and in it she too was born and lived, -as maiden, as four times wife, and four times widow. In it, if Mary, -Queen of Scots, was ever at Hardwick, she must have been received, and -in it the larger part of the great works of its remarkable owner must -have been planned. It was her “home,” and her favourite residence; and -it is said that when she began to build the new Hall—which, as we have -said, closely adjoins the old one—she still intended making the older -building her abode, and keeping the new one for state receptions and -purposes of hospitality. This plan, however, if ever laid down, was -ultimately discarded, and the old mansion, after all the improvements -which had been made in it, was in great measure stripped and dismantled -for the requirements of the new Hall, and of Chatsworth. - -A tolerably good idea of the extent of the ruins of the old Hall will -be gained from our engraving, which shows, perhaps, its most imposing -side, with the green sward in front. In its interior, several rooms, -in a more or less state of dilapidation, still remain, and can be -seen by the visitor. The kitchens, with their wide chimneys, and the -domestic offices on the ground-floor, amply testify to the almost regal -hospitality which must at one time have characterized the place; while -the chambers, the state-rooms, and the other apartments for the family, -testify to the magnificence of its appointments. - -The principal remaining apartment—and of this we give an -illustration—is at the top of that portion of the building which -overlooks the valley. It is called the “Giants’ Chamber,” taking its -name from the two colossal figures in Roman armour, which they term -_Gog_ and _Magog_, in raised plaster-work over the fire-place. This -pargetting is bold in the extreme, and in very high relief, and the two -figures, between which is a remarkably free and artistic winged figure -with a bow, must have had a wondrous effect as they frowned down upon -the gay throng assembled in olden times on the rush-strewn floors. The -room, which has been wainscoted, is 55 feet 6 inches in length, 30 feet -6 inches in width, and 24 feet 6 inches in height; and of it Bishop -Kennett thus speaks: “That old house has one room in it of such exact -proportion, and such convenient lights, that it has been thought fit -for a pattern of measure and contrivance to the most noble Blenheim.” - -[Illustration: _Interior of the Old Hall._] - -In other apartments, pargetting of the same general character as -distinguishes the rooms in Hardwick Hall itself is to be seen over -the fire-places. In one place a figure or two; in another, animals of -the chase; in a third, a moated and fortified building; in another, -armorial bearings; and in yet another, the same motto—now from the -dangerous state of the walls and floors not discernible—which occurs -on the fine old table described in our last— - - “The redolent smell of eglantyne - We stagges exault to the devyne”— - -will be noticed, and all of the highest order of workmanship. Of the -moated and fortified building just alluded to, we give an engraving -on our initial letter, and beneath it, we have added the arms of the -present noble house of Cavendish. - -We have, on a previous page, spoken of the marvellous aptitude for -business, and the careful attention to even the minutest details of -expenditure, &c., evinced by the Countess of Shrewsbury, and we purpose -now to make this a little more evident by giving some particulars of -the erection of Hardwick Hall built by her. - -The Hall, as it now stands—for it is, in every essential part, just -as the countess left it—was, it is thought, commenced about the year -1576, and finished in 1599. The book of accounts of the wages paid is -very curious and interesting, and gives the names of all the various -wallers, ditchers, stone breakers, labourers, &c., with the gardeners, -thatchers, moss-getters, &c., employed by the countess between January, -1576, and December, 1580. The accounts are made up every fortnight -during that time, and all the items are carefully ticked off with a -cross by the countess, and each fortnight’s accounts signed by her. Of -one of the signatures we have engraved a fac-simile: it reads—“thre -ponde hyght pence. E. SHROUESBURY.” - -[Illustration] - -Of the items of which this fortnight’s accounts, amounting only to £3 -0_s._ 8_d._ are composed, we copy the following:— - - “This fortnight work begane one Munday beinge the xxjth of January, - viz.:— - - George Hickete xj days v_s._ vj_d._ - his mane xj days iij_s._. viij_d._ - and his boy xj days iij_s._ viij_d._ - Robert bucknail vj days ij_s._ - his mane vj days xviij_d._” - -In the park are some remarkably fine old oak and other forest trees, -round which almost countless herds of deer may be seen browsing. Some -of these trees are of gigantic size, of considerable girth, and of -great beauty. Our engraving on page 139 gives a distant view of the -Hall, with some of these fine trees in the foreground. - -[Illustration: _Hault Hucknall Church._] - -HAULT HUCKNALL (Haute Hucknall, as it is called in the early registers, -and Ault Hucknall, as it is now not unfrequently spelt) is the -parish in which Hardwick Hall stands; and it is therefore necessary, -especially as the two places are intimately connected in more ways than -one, to say a few words about its church and monuments. The church, -which is dedicated to St. John the Baptist, formerly belonged to the -Abbey of Beauchief, but was, with the impropriate rectory, granted -in 1544 to Francis Leake, from whom it passed to the Cavendishes, and -now belongs to the Marquis of Hartington. The church contains some -interesting remains of Norman and of Early English work, among which -are the aisle under the tower, the window in the west end of the north -aisle, and the old plain font,—the font now in use having been brought -here from Bamford Church in the same county. In the south wall of the -chancel is a pretty little piscina, and there are aumbries in the north -aisle and in the Hardwick Chapel. At these places it is supposed altars -formerly stood, and one of the altar-stones, with the five crosses -emblematic of the five wounds of our Saviour, may be seen forming one -of the paving-stones of the floor near the altar-rails. The porch has a -vaulted stone-roof, and in the nave are remains of wall-paintings. - -Some portions of an elegant carved-oak screen which formerly separated -the Hardwick Chapel from the south aisle are still preserved, as are -also several of the original massive oak benches. In the east window -of the Hardwick Chapel, as shown in our engraving, the stained glass -represents our Saviour on the cross, with the figures of the Virgin -Mary and of St. John, &c. There are also some kneeling figures, and the -arms of Hardwick and of Savage. - -Among the monuments in this interesting church are some deserving -especial attention. In the floor of the chancel is a monumental brass, -the figure belonging to which is unfortunately lost, commemorative -of Richard Pawson, 1536, sometime vicar of the parish, bearing the -following inscription in black letter:— - - “Orate pro aia domini Ricardi Pawson Vicarii - Istius qui obiit die qua Vocavit eū d̄ns post an̄m - d̄ni millesimum quingentesimū tricesimū sextum - cujus aiē ppicietur deus. A.” - -At the east end of the Hardwick Chapel, beneath the window, as shown -in the engraving on the next page, is an elegant tomb, of Derbyshire -marble, to the memory of Anne, daughter and co-heiress of Henry -Kighley, of Kighley, in Yorkshire, and first wife of the second Sir -William Cavendish, created, after her death, Baron Cavendish of -Hardwick, and Earl of Devonshire. She was the mother of William, second -Earl of Devonshire, and Gilbert Cavendish, author of “Horæ Subsecivæ,” -Frances, wife of Lord Maynard, and James, Mary, and Elizabeth, who all -died young. - -The most interesting tomb, however, in this pretty church, is that of -Thomas Hobbes, who is best known as “Hobbes, of Malmesbury,” or as -“Leviathan Hobbes.” - -[Illustration: _The Grave of Hobbes of Malmesbury in Hault Hucknall -Church._] - -The monument to this great “philosopher” and free-thinker is a plain -slab of stone in the Hardwick Chapel—the raised slab shown on the -floor in this engraving—which bears the following inscription:— - - CONDITA HIC SUNT OSSA - THOMÆ HOBBES, - MALMESBURIENSIS, - QVI PER MULTOS ANNOS SERVIVIT - DUOBUS DEVONIÆ COMITIBUS - PATRI ET FILIO - VIR PROBUS, ET FAMA ERUDITIONIS - DOMI FORISQUE BENE COGNITUS - OBIIT ANN^o DOMINI 1679, - MENSIS DECEMBRIS DIE 4º - ÆTATIS SUÆ 91. - -Before speaking of Hobbes and his connection with Hardwick, where -he died, it will be well to note that the parish registers of Hault -Hucknall commence in the year 1662, and that the entry regarding the -burial of Hobbes, for the copy of which we have to express our thanks -to the Rev. Henry Cottingham, the respected vicar of the parish, is as -follows:— - - “Anno Regni } 31 Law. Waine, { James Hardwick, - Caroli Sucund } _Vicar_. { Thomas Whitehead, - Anno dom. 1679. _Churchwardens_. - - “Hardwick | Thomas Hobbs Magnus Philosophus, - Sepul. fuit et affidavit in Lana - Sepoliendo exhibit. Decem. 6” (or 8). - -Thomas Hobbes[28] was born at Malmesbury on Good Friday, 1588, in -the year of “the Spanish Armada,” and it is said that his birth was -hastened by his mother’s terror of the enemy’s fleet, and that a -timidity with which through life he was afflicted was thus induced. He -and fear, he was wont to say, “were born together.” His being born on -Good Friday has also been turned to account in the way of accounting -for his wonderful precocity as a child, and his subsequent intellectual -progress. At the age of fifteen he was sent to Oxford, and there made -such progress that before he was twenty years old he was taken into -the service of Sir William Cavendish, who had a few years before been -created Baron Cavendish of Hardwick, as tutor to his sons, Gilbert, -who died before attaining his majority, and William, who became second -Earl of Devonshire. With the latter young nobleman, who married, as -already narrated, Christian, daughter of Lord Bruce, of Kinloss, Hobbes -travelled through France and Italy. At his death he left, besides -other issue, William, Lord Cavendish, who succeeded him as Earl of -Devonshire, and who, at that time, was only in the tenth year of his -age. This Lord Hardwick was, as his father had been before him, placed -under the tuition of Hobbes, “who instructed him in the family for -three years, and then, about 1634, travelled with him as his governor -into France and Italy, with the longest stay in Paris for all the -politer parts of breeding. He returned in 1637, and, when he soon after -came of age, his mother (Christian, Countess of Devonshire), delivered -up to him his great houses in Derbyshire all ready furnished.” - -With this nobleman (who married Elizabeth, daughter of the Earl of -Salisbury, and was succeeded by his son, afterwards created Duke of -Devonshire) Thomas Hobbes remained for the rest of his life. “The earl -for his whole life entertained Mr. Hobbes in his family as his old -tutor rather than as his friend or confidant; he let him live under his -roof in ease and plenty and his own way, without making use of him in -any publick or so much as domestick affairs. He would often express an -abhorrence of some of his principles in policy and religion; and both -he and his lady would frequently put off the mention of his name and -say ‘He was an humourist, and that nobody could account for him.’” - -Of Hobbes’s works—of his “De Cive,” his “Leviathan,” his “Elémens -Philosophiques de Citoyen,” his “Behemoth,” or his hundred other -writings—it is, of course, not here our province to speak; but one -of his smaller productions, because of its connection with the family -of his noble patron, his “De Mirabilibus Pecci,” may claim a passing -word. This is a Latin poem descriptive of the “Wonders of the Peak, in -Derbyshire”—the same subject which Charles Cotton, later on, wrote -upon in his “Wonders of the Peak”—wherein Hobbes describes a tour -which he, with a friend, took on horseback, starting from Chatsworth, -where he was residing, and visiting Pilsley, Hassop, Hope, Castleton, -Peak Forest, Eldon Hole, the Ebbing and Flowing Well, Buxton, Poole’s -Hole, Chelmorton, Sheldon, Ashford, and so back to Chatsworth, quaintly -describing all he saw on his journey. - -If the earl was attached to Hobbes, he was at least amply repaid by the -devotion and fondness his old tutor showed to him and to his family. -Indeed, so intimate was the old man with the family of his patron, -that whenever the earl removed from one of his houses to another, -Hobbes accompanied them, even to the last of his long life. “There is a -tradition in the family,” said Bishop Kennett, in 1707, “of the manners -and customs of Mr. Hobbes somewhat observable. His professed rule of -health was to dedicate the morning to his health and the afternoon -to his studies. And therefore at his first rising he walk’d out and -climb’d any hill within his reach; or, if the weather was not dry, he -fatigued himself within doors by some exercise or other to be in a -sweat; recommending that practice upon this opinion, that an old man -had more moisture than heat, and therefore by such motion heat was to -be acquired and moisture expelled. After this he took a comfortable -breakfast, and then went round the lodgings to wait upon the earl, the -countess, and the children, and any considerable strangers, paying some -short address to all of them.” ... “Towards the end of his life he had -very few books, and those he read but very little, thinking he was now -only to digest what formerly he had fed upon. If company came to visit -him, he would be free in discourse till he was pressed or contradicted, -and then he had the infirmities of being short and peevish, and -referring to his writings for better satisfaction. His friends, who had -the liberty of introducing strangers to him, made these terms with them -before their admission—that they should not dispute with the old man, -nor contradict him.” - -Thus lived Hobbes, whether at Hardwick or at Chatsworth, and thus -were all his foibles kindly looked upon and administered to, and his -life made happy by allowing him in everything—even his attendance on -worship in the private chapel, and his leaving before the sermon—to -have, literally, “his own way.” In December, 1679, the earl and -countess went from Chatsworth to Hardwick Hall, probably with the -intention of keeping up their Christmas festivities there, and even -at that time the old man—for he was ninety-one years of age—would -accompany them. “He could not endure to be left in an empty house, -and whenever the earl removed he would go along with him, even to his -last stage from Chatsworth to Hardwick; when in a very weak condition -he dared not be left behind, but made his way upon a feather bed in a -coach, though he survived the journey but a few days. He could not bear -any discourse of death, and seemed to cast off all thoughts of it. He -delighted to reckon upon long life. The winter before he died he had -made a warmer coat, which he said must last him three years, and then -he would have such another. In his last sickness his frequent questions -were whether his disease was curable; and when intimations were given -that he might have ease, but no remedy, he used this expression:—‘I -shall be glad then to find a hole to creep out of the world at;’ which -are reported to have been his last sensible words, and his lying some -days following in a silent stupefaction did seem owing to his mind -more than to his body. The only thought of death that he appeared to -entertain in time of health was to take care of some inscription on his -grave. He would suffer some friends to dictate an epitaph, among which -he was best pleased with this honour, ‘_This is the true philosopher’s -stone_;’ which, indeed,” adds the bishop, “would have had as much -religion in it as that which now remains,” and of which we have just -given a copy. - -As we have already remarked, it is not our business to discuss the -political or philosophical principles which Hobbes expressed in his -writings: these, both in and after his time, were the subject of much -controversy. We may, however, remark that it was well for those who -were committed to his tutelage and close companionship, that their -minds do not seem to have been corrupted by his avowed rejection, not -only of the Christian faith, but apparently of any faith at all in the -existence of a Deity. Nowhere—and he had abundance of opportunity in -some, at least, of his voluminous writings—does he show any glimmering -even of religious belief; and the history of his latest years, and the -last expression which proceeded from his mouth, testify to his fear of -death, and his dislike to have the subject mentioned in his hearing. -A mere materialist would not thus have been “subject to bondage,” -inasmuch as the conviction of utter annihilation must remove all ground -of apprehension regarding the “something after death.” Hobbes closed -his eyes a resolute doubter, if not an actual disbeliever; and no ray -of comfort or of hope came to brighten his last moments as he passed -into the world of spirits to exchange uncertainty for certainty, the -mortal for the immortal. - -The late Sir William Molesworth endeavoured to rekindle some interest -in Hobbes’s writings by republishing an edition of his works: happily, -the attempt was a failure, so far, we believe, as to any extensive sale -of the poison contained in them. - -Externally, Hault Hucknall Church, although highly picturesque and -venerable in appearance, presents not many striking features. The -tower, which stands between nave and chancel, was probably terminated -by a spire—the upper remaining part being of much later date than the -lower. - -We have thus described the seat, next in importance to that of -Chatsworth, of the long-descended and long-ennobled family of -Cavendish. Their principal residence, Chatsworth, we describe and -illustrate in another part of this volume. - - - - -ARUNDEL CASTLE. - - -ARUNDEL castle takes high rank among the “Stately Homes of England.” -Some of its more prominent features we present to our readers. Of very -remote antiquity—for it traces back to a period long anterior to the -Conquest; deeply interesting in its historical associations—for it has -played a leading part in the principal events of the kingdom; and of -great importance in its family connections—for a long line of noble -and illustrious names, from the reign of Alfred the Great to our own -time, are associated with its history—Arundel stands, a proud monument -of England’s greatness, and of the beauty of England’s fair domains. - -The manor of Arundel was, it is stated, given in the will of Alfred -the Great (“Æthelme mines brother suna thone ham æt Ealdingburnam, & -æt Cumtune, & æt Crundellan, & æt Beadingum, & æt Beadingahamme, & æt -Burnham, & æt Thunresfelda, & æt Æscengum”) to his nephew, Æthelm, -the son of his brother. To Earl Godwine, and to King Harold, it is -also stated successively to have passed. At the time of the Norman -Conquest the possessions and the earldoms of Arundel, Chichester, -and Shrewsbury, were given to Roger de Montgomery, a relative of -the Conqueror, and “one of the council which formed the invasion of -England, leading the centre of the army in that famous battle of -Battle Abbey, wherein the crown accrued to the Norman.” He commanded -the entire army of archers and light infantry in the decisive battle; -and to his superior skill in military tactics was principally owing -the successful issue. To requite him for his valuable services, and -place him in a position of advantage, the Conqueror established him at -Arundel in all the magnificence of the age. Of his immense possessions, -those by which he was immediately surrounded constituted three -lordships, ten hundreds and their courts and suits of service, eighteen -parks, and seventy-seven manors. He took a prominent part in affairs of -state, both in the reign of the Conqueror and in that of William Rufus, -and at last entered the monastery at Shrewsbury, which he had founded, -and where he died. He was succeeded in his possessions in Normandy by -his eldest son, Robert, Comte de Belesme, and in his English earldoms -and possessions by his youngest son, Hugh, who led a turbulent life, -and met with a premature death at Anglesey, in repulsing the descent -made by Magnus, King of Norway, on that island; he was shot from his -horse by an arrow, which pierced through his brain. - -On the death of Hugh, his elder brother, Robert, came over from -Normandy to claim the earldoms and inheritance, to which, on paying -a heavy fine, he succeeded. “He was a cruel, crafty, and subtle man, -but powerful in arms, and eloquent in speech, and for fifteen years -seldom out of rebellion; till at length peace being made between the -king and his competitor, he was called to account for all his actions, -but shifted away and fortified his castles, which the king (Henry I.) -besieged, and forced him to sue for clemency, which was granted; but -all his possessions were seized, and himself banished.” He ultimately -died in Warwick Castle—the earldoms reverting to the crown. - -Before tracing the descent to a later time, a word on the derivation of -the name Arundel may not be out of place. It has been conjectured to -be derived from various sources. Thus, Hirundelle, from _Hirundo_, a -swallow; from the name of a famous horse, _Hirondelle_, which was the -favourite of its owner, one Sir Bevis, who is said to have been warder -or constable of the castle; from _Arundo_, a reed, which grows in the -river; from _Portus Adurni_; and from _Arun_, the name of the river, -and _dell_, from the valley along which it flows; as well as from -_araf_ and _del_, and other sources.[29] - -The estates and earldom having reverted to the crown under Henry I., -were settled upon that monarch’s second wife, Adeliza, daughter of -the Duke of Lorraine, who married, for her second husband, William -de Albini (son of William de Albini, surnamed Pincerna, who came over -with the Conqueror), who is said to have been called “William of the -Stronghand,” because, when cast into a lion’s den—so the story goes, -in consequence of his refusal to marry the Queen of France—he seized -the lion, thrust his hand into its mouth, and down his throat, and -tore out its heart! He was Lord of Buckenham, and one of the most -powerful of the barons. In the troublous reign of Stephen, Albini and -his royal wife lived at Arundel Castle, and here received the Empress -Matilda, daughter of Henry I. by his first wife, and mother of Henry -II., who, with her half-brother, Robert of Gloucester, and a retinue of -knights and retainers, remained there for some time. Stephen, on news -reaching him of the presence of his rival, the Empress, drew his forces -to Arundel, and laid close siege to the castle. Albini, however, not -only preserved his royal guest from violence, but by good generalship -or caution, secured for her a safe conduct to Bristol, from which she -took ship, and returned to the Continent. Albini was, subsequently, -the meditator between Stephen and the son of Queen Matilda, Henry, -afterwards Henry II., by which the crown was secured to that prince -and his heirs, and so brought about a happy peace. For his loyalty and -good services he was, by Henry II., confirmed in the estates and titles -he had enjoyed through his wife Queen Adeliza, and was, in addition to -the earldoms of Arundel and Chichester, created Earl of Sussex. Besides -taking a very prominent part in most affairs of the nation, Albini -was one of the deputation to the Pope in the matter of the king’s -dispute with A’Beckett; was sent to conduct the daughter of Matilda -into Germany on her marriage with the Duke of Saxony; was one of the -king’s trustees to the treaty of the marriage of Prince John to the -daughter of the Count of Savoy; and commanded the royal forces against -the rebellious princes, taking prisoners the Earl of Leicester, and his -countess, and all the retinue of knights. He and his wife founded the -Priory of Calceto, near Arundel; built the Abbey of Buckenham; endowed -prebends in Winchester; founded the Priory of Pynham, near Arundel; and -the Chapel of St. Thomas at Wymondham. This earl having, in conjunction -with his wife, founded the Priory of Calceto, near Arundel, granted -its priors many privileges: among which were an annual allowance of -timber for the repairs of the bridge, and a right of pasturage for -cattle in common with the burgesses of Arundel. At the dissolution of -the monasteries, the office of bridge-warden, previously held by the -friars, devolved on the Mayor of Arundel, who still continues the -office. The meadows were retained in the possession of the burgesses, -and are still held by them. He died in 1176, and was succeeded by his -eldest son (or grandson), William de Albini, who married Maud, widow of -the Earl of Clare, by whom he had issue, two sons, William and Hugh, -and six daughters. He was succeeded by his eldest son, William, who, -dying without issue, was succeeded by his brother, Hugh de Albini, the -youngest son, who married Isabel, daughter to the Earl of Warren and -Surrey, but died without issue. The estates then passed to his sisters -and co-heiresses; that of Arundel descending to John Fitzalan, son of -the second sister of Hugh de Albini, by her husband, John Fitzalan, -Baron of Clun and Oswestry. - -[Illustration: _The Quadrangle, Arundel Castle._] - -He was succeeded in the earldom and estates by his son, John, who dying -two years afterwards, was succeeded by his son, Richard, then only five -years of age. That nobleman greatly improved the Castle of Arundel, and -is thus described in “the Siege of Caerlaverock:”— - - “Richard, the Earl of Arundel, - A well-beloved and handsome knight, - In crimson surcoat marked, and well - With gold and rampant lion dight.” - -In 1302 King Edward I. was the guest of the earl, at Arundel, and at -that time created Arundel a borough, and granted the earl certain -privileges, of taxes, &c., for the purpose of fortifying it. He was -succeeded by his son, Edmund Fitzalan, who, being taken prisoner by -Mortimer, was beheaded at Hereford. He was succeeded by his son, -Richard Fitzalan, to whom Arundel Castle, which had, on the execution -of the last earl, been giving to the Earl of Kent, was restored, as -were also the baronies of Fitzalan, Clun, and Oswestry. He led an -active and useful life, and distinguished himself at Crescy, Vannes, -Thouars, and other places, and founded a chantry of six priests at -Arundel. He was succeeded by his son, Richard, in his titles and -estates; he died on the scaffold, in Cheapside, in 1397, the king, -Richard II., being present at the execution. Ten days afterwards, “it -being bruited abroad for a miracle that his head should be grown to his -bodye againe,” the king sent, secretly, by night, “certaine nobilitye -to see his bodie taken up, that he might be certified of the truth, -which done, and perceiving that it was a fable,” he had the grave -closed up again. Through this attainder Arundel reverted to the crown, -and was given to the Duke of Exeter. - -The earl was succeeded by his son, Thomas Fitzalan, who was, by Henry -IV., restored both in blood and in all his possessions and titles. He -held, among other important offices, those of Warden of the Cinque -Ports, Constable of Dover Castle, and Lord High Treasurer of England. -He married, in the presence of the king and queen, Beatrix, daughter of -John, King of Portugal, but died without issue, when the Arundel estate -passed, by entail, to his cousin, Sir John Fitzalan (or Arundel, as he -called himself), Lord Maltravers. His son, John, succeeded him as Baron -Maltravers and Earl of Arundel, and was created Duke of Touraine, but -being wounded before Beavois, was carried prisoner to that place, where -he died, and was succeeded by his son, Humphrey, who died a minor. The -title and estates then passed to the brother of Earl John, William -Fitzalan, who, in his turn, was succeeded by his son, Thomas, who again -was succeeded by his son, William, who died in 1543. This nobleman was -succeeded in his titles and estates by his son, Henry Fitzalan, who in -the four reigns of Henry VIII., Edward VI., Mary, and Elizabeth, led -a most eventful life, holding many important offices, and acquitted -himself nobly in all. He left issue, two daughters (his only son having -died a minor in his father’s lifetime), Joan, married to Lord Lumley, -and Mary, married to Thomas Howard, Duke of Norfolk. But the latter -lady having died after giving birth to a son, Philip Howard, and the -other, Lady Lumley, having been married twenty years without issue, -the earl entailed the estates, &c., on Lord and Lady Lumley for their -lives, and then to Philip Howard, the son of his sister Mary. Thus -ended the Fitzalan family, and from that time the titles and estates -have belonged to the ducal family of Howard. - -[Illustration: _Entrance Gate—from the Interior._] - -Philip Howard, so christened after Philip I., of Spain, one of his -godfathers, was only son by his first wife, Mary, daughter of the Earl -of Arundel, of Thomas Howard, Duke of Norfolk, who was beheaded for -high treason in 1572. The title of Duke of Norfolk being lost by his -attainder, Philip Howard did not enjoy it, but was Earl of Arundel and -Surrey. He was also unjustly attainted, was tried for high treason, -sentenced for execution, but ultimately died, during his imprisonment, -in the Tower. This ill-fated young nobleman had married Anne, daughter -and heiress of Lord Dacres of Gillesland, by whom he had an only -child, born after he was cast into prison, and who succeeded him. -This was Thomas Howard, the celebrated Earl of Arundel and Surrey -(and afterwards Earl of Norfolk), whose brilliant career and high -attainments are matters of history. His lordship, who is so well known -as the founder of the collection of marbles, &c., married the Lady -Alathea Talbot, daughter and one of the co-heiresses of Gilbert Talbot, -Earl of Shrewsbury, by whom he had issue, Henry Frederick, Lord Mowbray -and Maltravers (who succeeded him), Sir William Howard, ancestor of the -Earls of Stafford, and James, Thomas, Gilbert, and Charles, who all -died unmarried. - -Henry Frederick, the eldest son, who, during his father’s lifetime, -had been called to the Upper House by the title of Baron Mowbray and -Maltravers, married the Lady Elizabeth Stuart, eldest daughter of the -Duke of Lennox, of the blood royal, for which, for a time, he incurred -the displeasure of his Majesty, and, with his lady, was placed in -confinement. He had issue, ten sons and three daughters. These sons -were, Thomas, who succeeded him; Henry; Philip, who became a cardinal, -and was variously styled Cardinal of Norfolk and Cardinal of England; -Charles, who married Mary Tattershall and founded the Greystocke line; -Talbot, Edward, and Francis, who died unmarried; Bernard, who married -Catherine Tattershall; and two others. - -Thomas Howard, who succeeded his father as Earl of Arundel, Surrey, and -Norfolk, &c., had restored to him, and to the heirs male of himself -and his father, the dukedom of Norfolk and all the honours belonging -to that title. He thus became fifth Duke of Norfolk, a title which -has continued without further interruption till the present time. -He died unmarried in 1677, when the title and estates passed to his -brother Henry, sixth Duke of Norfolk, who had been previously created -a peer by the title of Baron Howard of Castle Rising, Earl of Norwich, -and Earl Marshal of England. He married, first, Lady Anne Somerset, -daughter of the Marquis of Worcester, and by her had issue, two sons -and three daughters; and secondly, Grace Bickerton, by whom he had -three sons and three daughters. Dying in 1684, he was succeeded by his -eldest son, Henry Howard (who had been summoned to Parliament in his -father’s lifetime as Baron Mowbray), as seventh Duke of Norfolk, who -was one of the supporters of the Prince of Orange. He married the Lady -Mary Mordaunt, daughter of the Earl of Peterborough, from whom he was -divorced in 1700, but died without issue in 1701, when the title and -estates passed to his nephew— - -Thomas, eighth Duke of Norfolk, who married Mary, daughter of Sir -Nicholas Sherburn, by whom he had no issue; and dying in 1732, was -succeeded, as ninth Duke of Norfolk, by his brother Edward, who -married, in 1727, Mary Blount, but died without issue in 1777, -at the age of ninety-one. The titles and estates then passed to a -distant member of the family, his third cousin, Charles Howard, of the -Greystocke family, who thus became tenth Duke of Norfolk. He married -Catherine, daughter of John Brocholes, Esq., and by her had issue, -besides a daughter who died young, one son, Charles, who succeeded him, -as eleventh Duke of Norfolk, in 1786. - -[Illustration: _The Keep._] - -This nobleman, who was the restorer, or rebuilder, of Arundel Castle—a -man of considerable literary and scientific attainments—married, -first, Mary Anne Copinger, and second, Frances Scudamore, but had no -issue by either. He was succeeded by his relative, Bernard Edward -Howard, as twelfth Duke of Norfolk, who, marrying the Lady Elizabeth -Belasyse, daughter of Earl Faulconberg (from whom he was divorced), had -an only son, Henry Charles, who succeeded him in 1842. - -Henry Charles, thirteenth duke, who was born in 1791, married, in 1814, -the Lady Charlotte Leveson Gower, daughter of the Duke of Sutherland -(she is still living), by whom he had issue, Henry Granville, Earl -of Surrey, who succeeded him; Lord Edward George Fitzalan Howard, of -Glossop Hall, Derbyshire, created, 1869, “Baron Howard, of Glossop;” -Lord Bernard Thomas; and the Ladies Mary Charlotte and Adeliza Matilda. -His Grace died in 1856, and was succeeded as fourteenth duke by his -eldest son, Henry Granville Fitzalan-Howard (who had assumed, by -royal sign-manual, in 1842, the surname of Fitzalan before that of -Howard). He married, in 1839, Augusta Mary Minna Catherine, daughter -of the first Baron Lyons (she still survives), by whom he had issue, -two sons, viz., Henry Fitzalan-Howard, the present Duke of Norfolk, -and Lord Edward Bernard Fitzalan-Howard; and seven daughters, viz., -the Lady Victoria Alexandrina, born 1840, and married in 1861 to -James Robert Hope-Scott, Esq., Q.C.; the Lady Minna Charlotte, born -1843; the Lady Mary Adeliza, born 1845; the Lady Ethelreda, born -1849; the Lady Philippa, born 1852; the Lady Anne, born 1857; and the -Lady Margaret, born 1860. During the life of this nobleman, who was -universally beloved and respected, her Majesty Queen Victoria and the -Prince Consort paid a visit of three days to Arundel Castle, where the -reception was kept up with regal magnificence. His Grace died in 1860, -and was succeeded by his eldest son, then in his thirteenth year. - -The present peer, his Grace Henry Fitzalan-Howard, fifteenth Duke -of Norfolk, Earl of Arundel, Earl of Surrey, Earl of Norfolk, Baron -Maltravers, Baron Fitzalan, Baron Clun, Baron Oswestry, Premier Duke -and Earl next to the blood royal, Hereditary Earl Marshal, and Chief -Butler of England, was born on the 27th of December, 1847, and attained -his majority in 1868. His grace is unmarried. He is the patron of seven -livings; but, “being a Roman Catholic, cannot present.” - -The arms of the Duke of Norfolk are—Quarterly: first, _gules_, on a -bend between six cross-crosslets, fitchée, _argent_, an escutcheon, -_or_, charged with a demi-lion rampant, pierced through the mouth with -an arrow, within a double tressure, flory counter-flory, all _gules_, -for Howard; second, the arms of England (_gules_, three lions passant -guardant, _or_), charged with a label of three points, _argent_, for -difference, for Plantagenet; third, chequy, _or_ and _azure_, for -Warren; fourth, _gules_, a lion rampant, _argent_, for Mowbray. Crest, -on a chapeau _gules_, turned up, _ermine_, a lion statant-guardant, -_or_ ducally gorged, _argent_. Behind the arms two marshal’s staves -in saltire, _or_, enamelled at each end, _sable_. Supporters:—on the -dexter side a lion, _argent_, and on the sinister, a horse of the -same, holding in his mouth a slip of oak, fructed, _proper_. The motto -is “Sola Virtus Invicta.” - -Thus having briefly traced the history of the house of Howard, so far -as the main line connected with Arundel Castle is concerned, we turn -our attention to some of the many beauties and attractions of the -domain of Arundel. - -In situation, as a fortress, few sites were so well chosen as that of -Arundel Castle. At the southern extremity of the elevated platform on -which it stands a strong wall enclosed the inner court, containing -upwards of five acres; on the north-east and south-east a precipitous -dip of the hill to ninety feet, rendered the castle inaccessible. -On the remaining sides a deep _fosse_, protected on the north by a -double vallation, and cutting off all external communication in that -direction, secured the garrison from any sudden incursion or surprise. -In the centre rose the Donjon, or Keep, circular in form, enormous -in strength, crowning a lofty artificial mound, and commanding a -wide and uninterrupted view of all the neighbouring approaches. “The -walls, from eight to ten feet in thickness, enclosed a nearly circular -space of more than sixty feet in diameter, and of great height—the -apartments being all lit from the central well-staircase, and there -being no loopholes in the walls. This Keep—which still stands in all -its venerable and hoary age—is supposed to have been built by Alfred -the Great, and to have been recased in Norman times, when the present -doorway was made. To the same period belongs a portion of the tower -near it, and which is connected with the Keep by a covered passage -carried across the moat. The Barbican, or Bevis’s Tower, occupying the -north-west side of the ditch surrounding the Keep, has also some good -Norman features, and it, as well as the Keep covered with luxuriant -ivy, and the old entrance, built by Fitzalan, form the most interesting -and picturesque portions of the venerable place.” - -The entrance to the castle at the present time is at the top of High -Street. The approach is enclosed by embattled walls with turrets, -and the entrance gateway, surmounted by a portcullis and the arms of -Howard, is between two massive embattled towers: of this gateway we -give an engraving, taken from the interior. Following the carriage-way, -the visitor arrives at the entrance to the grand quadrangle, a massive -and lofty arched gateway flanked by two towers. Passing through this -gateway the appearance of the castle is grand and imposing. On the -right of the gateway is the CHAPEL, and adjoining it is the BARON’S -HALL, or Banqueting Chamber; on the south side is the grand, or state -entrance; and in the north-east wing is the Library, &c. None of these -buildings, however, are of ancient times. - -[Illustration: _The Library._] - -One of the first objects that will be noticed by the visitor is a -bas-relief, which occupies a large space in the front wall of the -ALFRED SALOON, next to the Great Library. It represents Alfred the -Great instituting, or founding, trial by jury—the king himself -standing in the centre surrounded by his nobles and people, and -delivering a scroll, which he holds in his hand, bearing the words, in -Saxon characters, “That man fiœbe gemot on cum Wapentace” (That man, in -every hundred (Wapentake), shall find twelve jury). It was designed by -Rossi, a sculptor of modern time. - -The castle is entered from this quadrangle or court-yard, by the grand -entrance, or state entrance, as it is called. This is a fine modern -doorway, of Norman design, in a machicolated central tower of three -stories in height. Over the doorway is a large central window, on -each side of which is a colossal figure of Hospitality and Liberty -respectively. Over this again are the arms of the Howards, sculptured, -and these again are surmounted by the machicolations, parapet, &c. -Immediately on entering this splendid ducal residence, the visitor -reaches the GRAND-STAIRCASE leading to its various apartments. - -The BARON’S HALL, or BANQUETING CHAMBER, is a remarkably fine, and even -gorgeous, apartment. “Its architecture, like that of the chapel, is in -the style of the fourteenth century. It is 71 feet in length, by 35 -in breadth, lofty in proportion, and, as a whole, produces a striking -effect on the spectator.” The roof is of Spanish chestnut, elaborately -carved, and the sculptures around the walls and on the windows are of -elegant design. The stained-glass windows are, however, “the grand -attraction, for in these the story of English freedom is brilliantly -told. They are thirteen in number. The great window illustrates the -ratification of the great charter by King John, who seems to pause -in the act of affixing his signature to the instrument.” Behind him -are several prelates, while to his right are the Pope’s Legate and -the Archbishop of Dublin, and, to his left, Cardinal Langton. There -are also Baron Fitzwalter, the Master of the Knights Templars, the -Lord Mayor, and others. In the other windows, which were superbly -executed by Eginton, one of the best of our artists in stained glass, -are full-length figures of eight barons of the Norfolk family, who -aided in procuring the charter—the heads, however, as well as those -in the large window, being portraits of members of the Howard family -of the beginning of the present century, at which time the windows -were executed. On the walls are several fine suits of armour, &c. This -magnificent hall was first opened on the 15th of June, 1815, being the -600th anniversary of the signing of the charter. - -The GREAT DRAWING-ROOM is a noble apartment, commanding a magnificent -and extensive view of the valley of the Arun, and the surrounding -country. In it is a large collection of family portraits, among which -are Thomas Howard, Earl of Surrey, vindicating himself (“Sire, he was -my crowned king. If the authority of Parliament had placed the crown -on that stake, I would have fought for it. Let it place it on your -head and you will find me as ready in your defence”) before Henry VII. -for the part he took at the battle of Bosworth field; John, Duke of -Norfolk, who fell at Bosworth, and who is generally known as “Jocky of -Norfolk,” from the rude couplet:— - - “Jocky of Norfolk, be not too bold, - For Dickon thy master is bought and sold”— - -which was found written on his gate, as a warning, on the morning -when he set out on his fatal expedition; Henry, Earl of Surrey, the -great poet of his age, “who was not only the ornament of the court -of Henry VIII., which he attended in the capacity of companion to the -Duke of Richmond, but of the still more brilliant and chivalrous court -of Francis I. His travels on the Continent were those of a scholar -and knight-errant; and the vision which he had in Agrippa’s magic -mirror of his lady-love, the ‘Fair Geraldine,’ whom he has so nobly -perpetuated in verse, excited in him such a transport of enthusiasm, -that, at a tournament in Florence, he challenged all who could handle -a lance—Turk, Saracen, or cannibal—to dispute against him her claims -to the supremacy of beauty, and came off victorious: but the well-known -hatred of the tyrant Henry to all the Howards prematurely extinguished -this bright promise of excellence, and Surrey, the last victim of -the royal murderer, perished on the scaffold at the early age of -twenty-seven:”— - - “Who has not heard of Surrey’s fame? - His was the hero’s soul of fire, - And his the bard’s immortal name.” - -In 1547, he was beheaded on Tower Hill. One of the dark blots on -British history, was the execution of this true hero of the pen and -sword. The portraits also include those of Thomas, Duke of Norfolk -(by Holbein), who was beheaded, and his wife, Mary Fitzalan; Henry -Fitzalan; Cardinal Howard; “Belted Will Howard,” of whom we shall speak -in our account of Castle Howard; and various other members of this -distinguished family. - -The DINING-ROOM, formed out of the ancient family chapel, is -principally remarkable for its large stained-glass window, the subject -of which is the meeting of King Solomon and the Queen of Sheba—the -heads being portraits of the twelfth duke and his duchess. On each side -is respectively the mercy-seat in the tabernacle, and the interior of -the tabernacle. - -The LIBRARY, the building of which was commenced in 1801, is an -apartment of much magnificence. The book-cases and reading-galleries -are supported by fifteen columns, wrought out of the richest Spanish -mahogany; while the spidered roof displays a beauty of workmanship and -delicacy of carving, enriched with fruit-foliage, which have seldom -been surpassed. It is divided into several compartments for reading -recesses, and communicates with the ALFRED SALOON by folded doors. - -The CHAPEL adjoins the Baron’s Hall, and is a chaste and beautiful -apartment. - -It is not necessary further to describe the interior of the castle; but -it will be well to note that a chamber over the inner gateway enjoys -the traditionary fame of having been the sleeping-place of the Empress -Matilda. It is a low square apartment, and contains a bedstead which -the queen is said to have occupied; but, unfortunately for the charm -of the tradition, it is some centuries later in date than the time in -which she lived. - -Under the east end of the castle is a large vault, upwards of 60 feet -in length, the massive walls of which are formed of blocks of chalk, -strengthened with ribs of stone, and are of about 7 feet in thickness. -This vault was used, of course, as a place of safety for prisoners, -and a curious instance of escape from it is recorded. It seems that in -the year 1404 one John Mot was here confined on a charge of robbery, -but contrived to make his escape. Before he could get clear away, his -flight was discovered, and he was followed. Finding himself closely -pursued, he suddenly turned to the College of the Holy Trinity, and -seizing the ring attached to the gate just as his captors were about -to lay hands on him, claimed the right of sanctuary. He was, however, -forcibly seized, and carried back to prison. Knowledge of the affair -reaching the ears of the priests, two of the parties who assisted the -constable in making the seizure of Mot were summoned before the bishop, -found guilty, and “ordered to make a pilgrimage on foot to the shrine -of St. Richard at Chichester, to present an offering there according -to their ability, to be cudgelled (_fustigati_) five times through the -church of Arundel, and five times to recite the paternoster, ave, and -creed, upon their knees before the crucifix of the high altar.” Before -the sentence, however, could be carried into execution, the prisoner -was wisely restored to the church, the cudgelling was remitted, and -offerings of burning tapers were substituted. - -A word may be said about the fine old horned owls that at one time -gave renown to the Keep—owls of a peculiar breed, and about whom many -curious anecdotes have been related. At present, however, they greet -the visitors under glass, in cases; but it is understood that some -of their progeny are preparing to take the places in life of the old -denizens of the time-honoured ruin. - -It will be seen that all the inhabited portions of Arundel Castle are -of comparatively recent date; they are fitted up with much judgment and -taste, but by no means gorgeously. In one of the lesser chambers are -hung some modern drawings of great merit and value, by Prout, Hunt, -Copley Fielding, David Cox, and other artists of the best days of the -British school.[30] - -The KEEP is the great attraction of the castle and domain of Arundel. -Though now but a picturesque ruin, it has been prominent in all the -internal contests of the kingdom, from the days of Alfred the Great -to the reign of the third William. To this relic of a remote age the -public are freely admitted; and a courteous custodier is always at hand -to detail its history, and conduct through its winding and tortuous -paths from base to summit. - -Dating from a time certainly anterior to the Conquest, before -the application of “villainous saltpetre,” it must have been -impregnable—commanding the adjacent country on all sides, and -rendering the Arun a mere tributary to the will of its lords; it had -a large share in controlling the destinies of the kingdom during the -several civil wars to which it had been subjected. It remains one of -the most picturesque of the ruins that in England recall the memories -of battles lost and won, of glories continually claimed and resigned by -rival competitors, and of heroes whose mortal parts have been dust from -ages so remote that their records are read only in “the dim twilight of -tradition.” - -The historian, Tierney, states that the Keep probably comprised -the principal feature of the Saxon stronghold. It is of a circular -formation, and of immense strength. The height from the bottom of -the fosse, on the external side, was 70 feet; on the internal, 69; -which, with walls and battlements, produced an elevation altogether of -96 feet on the east; 103 on the west. The walls varied from 8 to 10 -feet, strengthened by ribs and buttresses. The inner space, which is -circular, afforded accommodation to the garrison; in extent it varied -from 59 to 67 feet in diameter. In the interior were several chambers, -converging towards a subterraneous room in the centre. Differing from -other Keeps, it contained no openings or loopholes from which the enemy -could be annoyed, and it was only from the ramparts and battlements -that the garrison could repel the assaults of the assailant. No traces -can be seen of the original Saxon entrance. - -Connected with the Keep is, of course, the Well-tower. Bevis’s Tower, -the Barbican, is seen immediately underneath, while, at a short -distance, is “the Chapel of St. Mary, over the gate.” - -The square building, known as the Clock Tower (introduced in the -engraving), and through which a vaulted Norman passage leads to the -Keep, dates from a period not long after the Conquest; parts of it -bear unequivocal marks of so early an origin. The upper portion of the -building has been renovated; but the lower portion remains almost as -perfect as when completed, as it is said to have been, by the first -Earl of Arundel. “The passage abutted to the fosse, and was defended by -a portcullis and drawbridge.” A window is pointed out from which, A.D. -1139, the Empress Maud, it is said, “scolded” the King, Stephen, who -besieged the castle in which she was a guest. - -The CHURCH OF ST. MARTIN forms a portion of the Keep, and some relics -of the ancient and venerable structure yet endure. It was the oratory -of the garrison, and is “mentioned in Domesday Book as enjoying an -annual rent of twelve pence, payable by one of the burgesses of -Arundel.” From a window of an early date is obtained a view of the -castle immediately beneath; but the prospect of the adjacent country is -very beautiful, not only of the fertile land and bountiful river, but -of the far-off sea; and hours may be pleasantly and profitably spent -on this mount that time has hallowed. In bidding the pleasant theme -farewell, we cannot do better than quote the old rhyme:— - - “Since William rose, and Harold fell, - There have been counts of Arundel; - And earls old Arundel shall have, - While rivers flow and forests wave.” - -It is scarcely necessary to add that the grounds and park are worthy of -the castle; they are especially beautiful, varied in hill and dale—the -free river at their base—full of magnificently grown trees, and -comprise eleven hundred acres, well stocked with deer. - -In the park, which was originally the hunting forest of the old Earls -of Arundel, will be noticed Hiorn’s Tower—a triangular, turreted -building, of about 50 feet in height, and designed as a prospect tower -by the architect whose name it bears. Near to it is Pugh-Dean, where, -it is said, Bevis, the Great Castellan of Arundel, and his famous -horse, “Hirondelle,” are buried. A mound, covered with a clump of -Scotch fir-trees, is pointed out as his burial-place. Near this place, -too, is the site of the old chapel and hermitage of St. James. - -The old bridge over the river Arun was situated a short distance below -the present structure. It is first mentioned in the charter which -Queen Adeliza granted to the monks of the Priory de Calceto, in which -lands for their support, and an allowance of timber for repairs of the -bridge, were granted. It was entirely rebuilt in 1724, principally of -stone taken from the ruins of the adjoining hospital. In 1831 it was -widened and improved. - -[Illustration: _Church of the Holy Trinity, Arundel._] - -The CHURCH OF THE HOLY TRINITY. All that remains of this once famous -establishment is a square building “enclosing a square yard, partly -occupied by cloisters, and partly devoted to other purposes of a -monastic establishment.” In it are some splendid monuments to members -of the noble families who have owned the place. One of the principal is -that of Thomas, Earl of Arundel, and his countess, Beatrix, daughter of -John, King of Portugal; and another striking feature is a canopied tomb -near the altar. - -The CHURCH possesses many highly interesting features, and forms a -pleasing object in the landscape, from whichever side it is seen. It -is cruciform, and consists of a nave with side aisles, a chancel, -and transept; and in the centre rises a low tower, surmounted by a -diminutive spire. - -The original ecclesiastical foundation was that of the alien priory, or -cell, dedicated to St. Nicholas, established by Roger de Montgomery, -Earl of Arundel, soon after the Conquest, and subjected to the -Benedictine Abbey of Seez, or de Sagio, in Normandy. It consisted -only of a prior and three or four monks, who continued to conduct the -establishment for nearly three centuries, until the third year of the -reign of Richard II., when Richard Fitzalan obtained a licence to -extinguish the priory and to found a chantry for the maintenance of a -master and twelve secular canons with their officers. Upon this change, -it was styled “the Church of the Holy Trinity.” At the suppression, it -was endowed with a yearly revenue of £263 14_s._ 9_d._ - -Being intended as the mausoleum of his family, the founder supplied -ample means to enrich it with examples of monumental splendour. The -tomb of his son, Thomas Fitzalan, and his wife, Beatrix, daughter of -John, King of Portugal, was the earliest of those placed in the church. -It is of alabaster, finely sculptured, and was formerly painted and -gilt. It contains the effigies of the earl and his lady; at the feet -of the earl is a horse, the cognizance of the Fitzalans; and at those -of his lady are two lap-dogs. Around, in niches, are small standing -figures of ecclesiastics, or pleureurs, with open books, as performing -funeral obsequies; and above them as many escutcheons. Other stately -tombs are erected to the memory of John Fitzalan and his wife, and -Thomas Arundel and his wife, “one of the eyres of Richard Woodevyle, -Earl Rivers, sister to Elizabeth, Queen of England, sometime wife to -King Edward IV.” - -The chapel which contains these monuments is still in a dilapidated -state, as was the whole church—“ruinated” during the temporary -possession of the Iconoclasts of the Commonwealth—until Henry Charles, -Duke of Norfolk, restored it, and put upon it a roof, which it had long -been without. - -Visitors to Arundel will note near the bridge some ancient ruins. -According to the historian, Tierney, they are the remains of the -_Maison Dieu_, that owed its origin to the same munificence as the -collegiate chapel and church. It formed a quadrangle, which was -occupied by the chapel, refectory, and its offices, and the various -chambers. There was a cloister round the court-yard. Quoting the -statutes, “the establishment,” says Mr. Tierney, “was to consist of -twenty poor men, either unmarried or widowers, who, from age, sickness -or infirmity, were unable to provide for their own sustenance. They -were to be selected from among the most deserving of the surrounding -neighbourhood, giving the preference only to the servants or tenants -of the founder and his heirs; they were to be men of moral lives and -edifying conversation, and were required, as a qualification for -their admission, to know the ‘Pater Noster,’ the ‘Ave-Maria,’ and the -‘Credo,’ in Latin.” - -[Illustration: _Tombs of Thomas Fitzalan and Lady Beatrix, Arundel -Church._] - -These buildings were dismantled at the time of the dissolution of the -monasteries, and no doubt suffered much at the time of the siege and -sack of Arundel, during the Civil War, by the Parliamentarians under -the command of Sir William Waller; in 1724 a large quantity of the -materials was used in the building of the bridge, that portion only -being rescued which is now seen, and which has been preserved by the -Duke of Norfolk because of the interest attached to the once sacred -structure. - -Arundel, with its many attractions, is barely two hours distant from -London, and within half an hour of populous Brighton; yet visits of -strangers to the old town and venerable castle are comparatively few. - - - - -PENSHURST. - - -PENSHURST—the “Home” of the Sidneys—the stately Sidneys: stately -in their character, in their careers, in their patriotism, in their -heroism, in their rectitude, and in their verse—is surely one of the -best of the Stately Homes of England to be included in our series. The -very name of Penshurst seems to call up associations of no ordinary -character connected with that heroic race, and with many of the most -stirring incidents of British history. With Penshurst every great -name memorable in the Augustan age of England is linked for ever; -while its venerable aspect, the solemnity of the surrounding shades, -the primitive character of its vicinity, together with its isolated -position—away from the haunts of busy men—are in harmony with the -memories it awakens. - -Here lived the earliest and bravest of the Anglo-Norman knights. Here -dwelt the ill-fated Bohuns—the three unhappy Dukes of Buckingham, -who perished in succession, one in the field and two on the scaffold. -And here flourished the Sidneys! Here, during his few brief years of -absence from turmoil in the turbulent countries of Ireland and Wales, -resided the elder Sidney, Sir Henry, who, although his fame has been -eclipsed by the more dazzling reputation of his gallant son, was in all -respects good as well as great—a good soldier, a good subject, a good -master, and a good counsellor and actor under circumstances peculiarly -perilous. This is the birthplace of “the darling of his time,” the -“chiefest jewel of a crown,” the “diamond of the court of Queen -Elizabeth.” Here, too, was born—and here was interred the mutilated -body of—the “later Sidney:” he who had “set up Marcus Brutus for his -pattern,” and perished on the scaffold—a martyr for the “good old -cause,” one of the many victims of the meanest and most worthless of -his race. With the memories of these three marvellous men—the Sidneys, -Henry, Philip, and Algernon—are closely blended those of the worthies -of the two most remarkable eras in English history. Who can speak of -Penshurst without thinking of Spenser, - - (“For Sidney heard him sing, and knew his voice,”) - -of Shakspere, of Ben Jonson—the laureate of the place—of Raleigh, -the “friend and frequent guest” of Broke, whose proudest boast is -recorded on his tomb, that he was “the servant of Queen Elizabeth, the -counsellor of King James, and THE FRIEND of Sir Philip Sidney”—of the -many other immortal men who made the reign of Elizabeth the glory of -all time? Reverting to a period less remote, who can think of Penshurst -without speaking of the high spirits of a troubled age— - - “The later Sidney, Marvel, Harrington, - Young Vane, and others, who called Milton—friend.” - -Although its glory is of the past, and nearly two centuries have -intervened between the latest record of its greatness and its present -state; although it has been silent all that time—a solemn silence, -broken only by the false love-note of an unworthy minstrel, for the -names of “Waller” and “Sacharissa” discredit rather than glorify its -grey walls—who does not turn to Penshurst as to a refreshing fountain -by the wayside of wearying history? - -[Illustration: _Penshurst, from the President’s Court._] - -The history of the descent of Penshurst to the Sidneys may be summed -up in few words—that of the Sidneys themselves will require greater -space. It was “the ancient seat of the Pencestres, or Penchesters, who -settled here in Norman times,[31] and one of whom was Sir Stephen, that -famous Lord Warden of the Five Ports, and Constable of Dover Castle, -who flourished in the reigns of Henry III. and Edward I., and who was a -very learned man, and ordered all the muniments, grants, &c., relating -to Dover Castle to be written in a fair book, which he called _Castelli -Feodarium_, and out of which Darell composed the history of that -fortress.” Dying without male issue, his estates were divided between -his two daughters and co-heiresses, Joan, wife of Henry Cobham, and -Alice, wife of John de Columbers, to the latter of whom fell Penshurst, -&c., which was soon afterwards conveyed to Sir John de Poultney, -who (15th Edward II.) had license to embattle his mansion houses at -Penshurst and elsewhere. He was four times Lord Mayor of London, and, -dying, his widow “married Lovaines, and conveyed these estates into -that family with consent of her first husband’s immediate heirs;” and -they afterwards passed, by an heiress, to Sir Philip St. Clere, whose -son sold them to the Regent Duke of Bedford. On his decease in Paris -in the reign of Henry VI., Penshurst and other manors passed to his -next brother, Humphrey, the “good Duke of Gloucester,” after whose -sad death, in 1447, they reverted to the crown, and were, in that same -year, granted to the Staffords. On the attainder of Edward, Duke of -Buckingham, Penshurst reverted to the Crown. - -That brilliant nobleman—whose principal crimes were his wealth, -his open, manly, and generous nature, and his wise criticisms of -the ruinous expenditure on the “field of the cloth of gold”—was -treacherously invited to court by the king, and, suspecting no -mischief, he obeyed the summons, and set out on his journey from -Thornbury, not observing for some time that he was closely followed -by three knights of the king’s body-guard, “and a secret power of -servants-at-arms.” His suspicions were first awakened at Windsor, where -he lodged for the night, “the same three knights lying close by,” and -where he was treated with marked disrespect by the king’s gentleman -harbinger. From Windsor, Buckingham rode on to Westminster, and then -took his barge to row down to Greenwich, where the court then was, -calling, however, on his way, at York House, to see Cardinal Wolsey, -who was denied to him. “Well, yet will I drink of my lord cardinal’s -wine as I pass,” said the duke: “and then a gentleman of my lord -cardinal’s brought the duke with much reverence into the cellar, where -the duke drank; but when he saw and perceived no cheer to him was made, -he changed colour, and departed.” Passing forward down the Thames, -as he neared the City, his barge was hailed and boarded by Sir Henry -Marney, captain of the body-guard, who, in the king’s name, attached -him as a traitor. He was at once carried on shore and taken through -Thames Street to the Tower, “to the great astonishment and regret of -the people, to whom he was justly endeared.” This was on the 16th of -April, 1521. On the 13th of May he was put on his mock trial and was -condemned. “I shall never sue the king for life,” said he; and he kept -his word. On the 17th he was executed, without having once supplicated -his brutal king to spare the life he was unjustly taking away. “He -was as undaunted in sight of the block as he had been before his -judges; and he died as brave men die—firmly and meekly, and without -bravado.” His death was the grief of the people. “God have mercy on his -soul, for he was a most wise and noble prince, and the mirrour of all -courtesie”—that was written of him at the time. - -By this detestable piece of royal treachery Henry became possessed -of the estates of the duke, and held them in his own hands for -several years, enlarging Penshurst Park, and reaping benefit from -his unhallowed acquisitions. By Edward VI., Penshurst, with its -appurtenances, was “granted to Sir Ralph Fane, who, within two years, -was executed as an accomplice of the Protector Somerset.” - -Soon after this, the young monarch gave Penshurst, with other adjoining -estates, to Sir William Sidney, one of the heroes of Flodden Field, -“who had been his tutor, chamberlain, and steward of his household from -his birth to his coronation.” Thus Penshurst came into the family of -the Sidneys, concerning whom we will proceed to give some particulars. - -The earliest member of the family of whom aught authentic is known -is Sir William Sidney, who lived in the reign of Stephen. His son, -Sir Simon (1213), married Margaret, daughter of Sir Thomas Delamere; -and their son again, Sir Roger (1239), married Eleanor, daughter of -Sir John Sopham, by whom he had issue two sons, Sir Henry (1268), who -succeeded him, and Simon; and a daughter, married to Sir John Wales. -Sir Henry Sidney married Maud, daughter of Robert d’Abernon, and -granddaughter of Sir John d’Abernon. By her he had issue four sons and -two daughters, and was succeeded by his eldest son, Sir Henry Sidney, -who, marrying a daughter of Sir Ralph Hussey, died in 1306, and was -succeeded by his son, Sir William Sidney, who took to wife Elizabeth, -daughter of Sir Richard Ashburnham, by whom he had three sons, viz.: -William, who married a daughter of John de Altaripa, but died without -heirs male; John, who died young; and another John, who succeeded him, -and marrying Helen, daughter of Robert Batisford, was the father, by -her, of Sir William Sidney. This Sir William took to wife Joanna, -daughter of William Brokhull, who married, first, Margaret Orre, and -second, Isabell. By his first wife he had issue two sons, John, who -succeeded him, and William (of whom presently). This John Sidney had -a son John, who married Isabell Payteuine, by whom he had an only -daughter and heiress Johanna, who married William Appesley. William -Sydney, by his wife, Alicia, daughter and heiress of John Clumford, -had one son, William, and four daughters. This William Sidney married -Cicely, daughter and co-heiress of Sir John Michell, and Margaret, his -wife, who was daughter and heiress of Matham. He was succeeded by his -son, William Sidney, who married twice. By his first wife, Isabell St. -John, he had a son, William, whose line ended in co-heiresses, married -to William Vuedall and John Hampden; and by his second wife, Thomasen, -daughter and heiress of John Barrington, and widow of Lonsford (and -who, after Sidney’s death, became wife of Lord Hopton), he had issue -a son, Nicholas Sidney, who married Anne, cousin and co-heiress of -Charles Brandon, Duke of Suffolk. - -[Illustration: _North and West Fronts._] - -By her he had a son, Sir William Sidney, who married Anne, daughter of -Hugh Pagenham, and by her had, besides Sir Henry, who succeeded him, -four daughters, viz.: Frances, who became Countess of Sussex by her -marriage to Thomas Ratcliffe, Earl of Sussex, Viscount Fitzwalter, -Lord Egremont and Burnell, Lord Chamberlain, Knight of the Garter, and -one of the Privy Council; Mary, married to Sir William Dormer; Lucy, -married to Sir James Harrington; and Anne, married to Sir William -Fitzwilliam. This Sir William Sidney was made a knight, 3rd Henry -VIII., at the burning of Conquest, and a banneret on Flodden Field, -5th Henry VIII. He was chamberlain to Prince Edward (afterwards Edward -VI.), and also steward of his household; and his wife was “governesse -of the sayd prince while he was in his nurse’s handes.” To him it -was that Penshurst was given by Edward VI. as a mark of affectionate -regard. Dying in 1553, he was succeeded by his son, Sir Henry Sidney, -who was a Knight of the Garter, Lord President of Wales, and one of the -Privy Council; he married Lady Mary, eldest daughter of John, Duke of -Northumberland, and by her had issue “the incomparable” Sir Philip, -and two other sons, Robert and Thomas, and a daughter, Mary, married -to Henry Herbert, Earl of Pembroke. This Henry Sidney was knighted, -3rd Edward VI., and was, when only twenty-two years of age, sent by -that amiable young monarch as ambassador to the French court. Under -Queen Mary he was Lord Treasurer of Ireland, and Lord Chief Justice, -and under Elizabeth was, in 1564, made Lord President of the Council in -the Marches of Wales; Knight of the Garter in 1564; and was twice Lord -Deputy of Ireland and Lord President of Wales. - -Sir Henry Sidney had been brought up and educated with Edward VI., -“being companion and many times the bedfellow of the prince;” and -that young king died in his arms. This death so affected Sir Henry, -“that he returned to Penshurst to indulge his melancholy. Here he soon -afterwards sheltered the ruined family of his father-in-law, the Duke -of Northumberland, in whose fall he would in all probability have been -implicated but for his retirement.” He died at Ludlow, the seat of his -government, in 1586—his heart being there buried, but his body was -interred with great solemnity, by the queen’s order, at Penshurst. The -concurring testimony of all historians and biographers, such as Camden, -Sir Richard Cox, Campian (in his “History of Ireland”), Hollinshed, -Anthony-à-Wood, and Lloyd (in his “State Worthies”), proves the -extraordinary courage, abilities, and virtue of Sir Henry Sidney. These -qualities made him the most direct and clear politician. He seems to -have been incapable of intrigue and the supple arts of the court. “His -dispatches are full, open, and manly; and Ireland, and perhaps Wales, -to this day experience the good effects of his wise government.” - -“As the father was, so was the son;” the son being Sir Philip Sidney, -to whom we have alluded. Sir Philip was born at Penshurst, November -29th, 1554. His life was one scene of romance from its commencement to -its close. His early years were spent in travel; and on his return he -was married to the daughter of Sir Francis Walsingham, a lady of many -accomplishments, and of “extraordinary handsomeness,” but his heart was -given to another. The Lady Penelope Devereux won it, and kept it till -he fell on the field of Zutphen. Family regards had forbidden their -marriage, but she was united to the immortal part of him, and that -contract has not yet been dissolved. She is still the Philoclea of the -“Arcadia,” and Stella in the poems of “Astrophel.” It is unnecessary -to follow in detail the course of Sir Philip Sidney’s life. There is -no strange inconsistency to reason off, no stain to clear, no blame to -talk away. - -[Illustration: _View from the Garden._] - -We describe it when we name his accomplishments; we remember it as -we would a dream of uninterrupted glory. His learning, his beauty, -his chivalry, his grace, shed a lustre on the most glorious reign -recorded in the English annals. England herself, “by reason of the -widespread fame of Sir Philip Sidney,” rose exalted in the eyes of -foreign nations—he was the idol, the darling of his own. For with -every sort of power at his command, it was his creed to think all -vain but affection and honour, and to hold the simplest and cheapest -pleasures the truest and most precious. The only displeasure he ever -incurred at court was when he vindicated the rights and independence of -English commoners in his own gallant person against the arrogance of -English nobles in the person of the Earl of Oxford. For a time, then, -he retired from the court, and sought rest in his loved simplicity. He -went to Wilton; and there, for the amusement of his dear sister, Mary, -Countess of Pembroke, he wrote, between the years 1579 and 1581, the -“Arcadia,” a work whose strange fortune it has been to be too highly -valued in one age, and far too underrated in another. Immediately -after its publication it was received with unbounded applause. “From -it was taken the language of compliment and love; it gave a tinge of -similitude to the colloquial and courtly dialect of the time; and -from thence its influence was communicated to the lucubrations of the -poet, the historian, and the divine.” The book is a mixture of what -has been termed the heroic and the pastoral romance, interspersed -with interludes and episodes, and details the various and marvellous -adventures of two friends, Musidorus and Pyrocles. It was not intended -to be published to the world, but was written merely to pleasure the -Countess of Pembroke—“a principal ornament to the family of the -Sidneys.” The famous epitaph, usually ascribed to the pen of Ben -Jonson, though in reality, it appears, written by William Browne, the -author of “Britannia’s Pastorals,” and preserved in a MS. volume of his -poems in the Lansdowne Collection in the British Museum, although so -well known, will bear repeating here:— - - “Underneath this sable hearse - Lies the subject of all verse, - _Sidney’s_ sister! _Pembroke’s_ mother - Death, ere thou hast slain another - Fair, and learn’d, and good as she, - Time shall throw a dart at thee! - Marble piles let no man raise - To her name for after-days; - Some kind woman, born as she, - Reading this, like Niobe, - Shall turn marble, and become - Both her mourner and her tomb.” - -Again, however, Sidney returned to court, and his queen seized every -opportunity to do him honour. He received her smiles with the same high -and manly gallantry, the same plain and simple boldness, with which -he had taken her frowns. In the end, Elizabeth, who, to preserve this -“jewel of her crown,” had forcibly laid hands on him when he projected -a voyage to America with Sir Francis Drake, and placed her veto on his -quitting England when he was offered the crown of Poland, could not -restrain his bravery in battle when circumstances called him there. At -Zutphen, on the 22nd of September, 1586, he received a mortal wound; -and here occurred the touching incident to which, perhaps, more than -to any other circumstance, Sir Philip is indebted for his heroic fame. -It is thus related by his friend and biographer, Fulke Greville, Lord -Broke:—“In his sad progress, passing along by the rest of the army, -where his uncle, the general, was, and being thirsty from excess of -bleeding, he called for drink, which was presently brought him; but, as -he was putting the bottle to his mouth, he saw a poor soldier carried -along, who had been wounded at the same time, ghastly, casting up his -eyes at the bottle; which Sir Philip perceiving, took it from his head -before he drank, and delivered to the poor man with these words: ‘Thy -necessity is yet greater than mine.’ He lived in great pain for many -days after he was wounded, and died on the 17th of October, 1586.” The -close of his life affords a beautiful lesson. “Calmly and steadily he -awaited the approach of death. His prayers were long and fervent; his -bearing was indeed that of a Christian hero.” He had a noble funeral; -kings clad themselves in garments of grief: a whole people grieved for -the loss of the most accomplished scholar, the most graceful courtier, -the best soldier, and the worthiest man of the country and the age. -He was buried in state, in the old Cathedral of St. Paul, on the 16th -of February. Both Universities composed verses to his memory, and so -general was the mourning for him, that, “for many months after his -death, it was accounted indecent for any gentleman of quality to appear -at court or in the city in any light or gaudy apparel.” - -We may place implicit faith in the testimony of the contemporaries of -Sir Philip Sidney; and by all of them he is described as very near -perfection. Their praises must have been as sincere as they were -hearty; for his fortune was too poor to furnish him with the means -to purchase them with other than gifts of kindly zeal, affectionate -sympathy, cordial advice, and generous recommendations to more -prosperous men. From Spenser himself we learn that Sidney - - “First did lift my muse out of the floor.” - -In his dedication of the “Ruins of Time” to Sidney’s sister, he speaks -of her brother as “the hope of all learned men, and the patron of my -young muse.” “He was,” writes Camden, “the great glory of his family, -the great hope of mankind, the most lively pattern of virtue, and the -darling of the learned world.” - -[Illustration: _The Baron’s Court._] - -Sir Philip, dying without issue, was succeeded by his brother, Sir -Robert Sidney, who was created Lord Sidney of Penshurst, and afterwards -Viscount Lisle and Earl of Leicester, and a Knight of the Garter, by -James I. He died at Penshurst in July, 1626, and was succeeded in his -title and estates by his son, Robert, as second Earl of Leicester. This -nobleman was “several times ambassador to foreign courts, and in 1641 -was appointed Lord-Lieutenant of Ireland, but, through some unfounded -aspersions cast against his fidelity and honour, he was never permitted -to seat himself in his new station, and was ultimately dispossessed of -it.” He retired in disgust to Penshurst, where he spent his time in -literary retirement, for he was well read in the classics, and spoke -Latin, French, Italian, and Spanish, and purchased most of the curious -books in those languages, “and several learned men made him presents -of their works.” He remained in retirement at Penshurst during the -domination of the Parliament and the rule of the Protector, and died -there in November, 1677, in the eighty-second year of his age. His -lordship, who married the Lady Dorothea Percy, had fourteen children, -six sons and eight daughters. His eldest son, Philip, succeeded to the -title and estates, and lived in troubled times the life of an easy -gentleman. Not so the second son, Algernon, the famous scion of the -Sidneys, whose name is scarcely less renowned in history than that of -his great-uncle, Sir Philip. Of the daughters, Lady Dorothea became -Countess of Sunderland, and she was the famous “Sacharissa” of the poet -Waller. Waller wooed her in vain; she estimated the frivolous poet -at his true value. He called her “Sacharissa—a name, as he used to -say pleasantly, derived from _saccharum_, sugar.” Sacharissa and her -lover met long after the spring of life, and on her asking him “when -he would write such fine verses on her again?” the poet ungallantly -replied, “Oh, madam, when you are as young again!” Algernon Sidney -was born at Penshurst, in 1621. He had scarcely reached the age of -manhood when he was called upon to play his part in the mighty drama -then acting before the world. He joined the Parliament, and became a -busy soldier—serving with repute in Ireland, where he was “some time -Lieutenant-General of the Horse and Governor of Dublin,” until Cromwell -assumed the position of a sovereign, when Sidney retired in disgust to -the family seat in Kent, and began to write his celebrated “Discourses -on Government.” At the Restoration he was abroad, and “being so noted -a republican,” thought it unsafe to return to England; for seventeen -years after this event he was a wanderer throughout Europe, suffering -severe privations, “exposed (according to his own words) to all those -troubles, inconveniences, and mischiefs into which they are liable who -have nothing to subsist upon, in a place farre from home, wheare no -assistance can possibly be expected, and wheare I am known to be of a -quality which makes all lowe and meane wayes of living shamefull and -detestible.” The school of adversity failed to subdue the proud spirit -of the republican; and on his return to his native country, 1677, at -the entreaty of his father, “who desired to see him before he died,” -the “later Sidney” became a marked man, whom the depraved Charles and -his minions were resolved to sacrifice. He was accused of high treason, -implicated in the notorious Rye House Plot, carried through a form of -trial on the 21st of November, and beheaded on Tower Hill on the 8th of -December, 1683. His execution was a judicial murder. - -Philip, third earl, lived to a great age, eighty-two, and dying in -1696, was succeeded by his grandson, John, who, dying unmarried, was -succeeded successively by two of his brothers; the last earl, Jocelyn, -died in 1748, without any legitimate issue. He, however, left a natural -daughter, afterwards married to Mr. Streatfield, to whom he devised the -whole of his estates. His next elder brother, Colonel Thomas Sidney, -who died before him, had, however, left two daughters, to whom the -estate properly devolved as co-heiresses; and after a long course -of litigation their right was established, and the guardians of the -young lady found it necessary to consent to a compromise (sanctioned -by Act of Parliament) with the husbands of the two co-heiresses. In -the division of the property, Penshurst passed to the younger of the -co-heiresses, Elizabeth, wife of William Perry, Esq. (who assumed the -name of Sidney), of Turville Park, Buckinghamshire, who repaired the -mansion, and added to its collection of pictures. He died in 1757, and -his widow, Mrs. Perry-Sidney, was left in sole possession. This lady, -after the death of her elder sister, Lady Sherrard, purchased most of -the family estates which had fallen to that lady’s share. A claim to -the estates and title of Earl of Leicester was made by a son of the -countess of the last earl (Jocelyn), born after her separation from her -husband, but was unsuccessful. - -Mrs. Perry-Sidney had an only son, Algernon Perry-Sidney, who died -during her lifetime, but left two daughters, his and her co-heiresses, -to the elder of whom, Elizabeth, who was married to Bysshe Shelley, -Esq., Penshurst passed. Their son, Sir John Shelley Sidney, Bart., -inherited Penshurst and the manors and estates in Kent; he was created -a baronet in 1818. He was succeeded as second baronet by his son, Sir -Philip Charles Sidney, D.C.L., G.C.H., &c., who was an equerry to -the king. He was born in 1800, and in 1825 married the Lady Sophia -Fitzclarence, one of the daughters of his Majesty King William IV. and -Mrs. Jordan, and sister to the Earl of Munster. In 1835 he was raised -to the peerage by William IV., by the title of Baron de L’Isle and -Dudley. By his wife, the Lady Sophia Fitzclarence (who died in 1837), -his lordship had issue one son, the present peer, and three daughters, -the Honourable Adelaide Augusta Wilhelmina, married to her cousin, the -Honourable Frederick Charles George Fitzclarence (who has assumed the -name of Hunlocke), son of the first Earl of Munster; the Honourable -Ernestine Wellington, married to Philip Percival, Esq.; and the -Honourable Sophia Philippa. - -The present noble owner of Penshurst, Philip Sidney, second Baron de -L’Isle and Dudley, and a baronet, was born in 1828. He was educated -at Eton, and was an officer in the Royal Horse Guards. He is a -Deputy-Lieutenant of Kent and of Yorkshire, and Hereditary Visitor -of Sidney-Sussex College, Cambridge. His lordship, who succeeded his -father in 1851, married, in 1850, Mary, only daughter of Sir William -Foulis, Bart., of Ingleby Manor, and has issue living, by her, four -sons, the Honourable Philip, the heir-presumptive to the title, born -1853; the Honourable Algernon, born 1854: the Honourable Henry, born -1858; and the Honourable William, born 1859; and one daughter, the -Honourable Mary Sophia, born 1851. - -The arms of Lord de L’Isle and Dudley are, quarterly, first and fourth, -_or_, a phoon, _azure_, for Sidney; second and third, _sable_, on -a fesse engrailed, between three whelk shells, _or_, a mullet for -difference, for Shelley. Crests, first, a porcupine, statant, _azure_, -quills collar and chain, _or_, for Sidney; second, a griffin’s head -erased, _argent_, ducally gorged, _or_, for Shelley. Supporters, -dexter, a porcupine, _azure_, quills collar and chain, _or_; sinister, -a lion, queue fourchée, _vert_. Motto: “Quo Fata Vocant.” - -[Illustration: _The Village and Entrance to Churchyard._] - -PENSHURST, or, as it is called, Penshurst House, or Castle, or Place, -“the seat of the Sidneys,” adjoins the village to which it gives a -name. It is situated in the weald of Kent, nearly six miles south-west -of Tunbridge, and about thirty miles from London. The neighbourhood -is remarkably primitive. As an example of the prevailing character -of the houses, we have copied a group that stands at the entrance of -the churchyard—a small cluster of quiet cottages (recently, however, -rebuilt upon the old model), behind which repose the rude forefathers -of the hamlet, with brave knights of imperishable renown, and near -which is an elm of prodigious size and age, that has seen generations -after generations flourish and decay. The sluggish Medway creeps lazily -round the park, which consists of about 400 acres, finely wooded, and -happily diversified with hill and dale. A double row of beech-trees of -some extent preserves the name of “Sacharissa’s Walk,” and a venerable -oak, called “Sidney’s Oak,” the trunk of which is hollowed by time, is -pointed out as the veritable tree that was planted on the day of Sir -Philip’s birth; of which Rare Ben Jonson thus writes:— - - “That taller tree of which a nut we set - At his great birth when all the muses met;”— - -to which Waller makes reference as “the sacred mark of noble Sidney’s -birth;” concerning which Southey also has some lines; and from which a -host of lesser poets have drawn inspiration. - -[Illustration: _The Record Tower and the Church, from the Garden._] - -Until within the last thirty or forty years Penshurst House was in a -sadly dilapidated state. Its utter ruin, indeed, appeared a settled -thing, until Lord de L’Isle set himself to the task of its restoration, -and under his admirable direction it rapidly assumed its ancient -character—a combination of several styles of architecture, in which -the Tudor predominated. One of our views is of the mansion, from the -principal approach through the park. In another view the west front -is shown, the north front being seen in short perspective; on the -left is “Sir Henry’s Tower,” containing his arms, and an inscription -stating that he was “Lord Deputie General of the Realm of Ireland in -1579.” This tower terminates the north wing, in which is the principal -entrance, by an ancient gateway, leading through one of the smaller -courts to the great hall. Over this gateway is an antique slab, setting -forth that “The most religious and renowned Prince, Edward the Sixt, -Kinge of England, France, and Ireland, gave this house of Pencestre -with the manors, landes and appurtenaynces thereunto belonginge to, -unto his trustye and well-beloved servant, Syr William Sidney, Knight -Banneret.” - -We cannot do better than ask our readers to accompany Mr. Parker in -his tour through the house. Ascending the staircase on one side of -the hall, the company passed through the solar or lord’s chamber, at -one end of which Mr. Parker thought the chapel had been originally -screened off, and that it was changed into a ball-room in the reign -of Queen Anne. The Buckingham Building, which was next visited, was -found to have been admirably restored, although it had fallen into a -sad state of ruin. Fragments of one of the old windows, however, were -discovered, and these enabled the architect to restore it completely. -Mr. Parker considered it to be one of the most beautiful instances of -restoration he had seen. It gave a most vivid idea of its original -state. The company then descended into the lower chamber or parlour of -the house of the time of Edward III., which was perfectly preserved, -and an excellent example of a mediæval vaulted substructure. Passing to -the Elizabethan house, the company entered a suite of rooms elegantly -furnished, and containing many exceedingly interesting objects. The -chairs were of the time of Charles II., of English manufacture, and -the best specimens of that date that could be found. There were also -a couch of the same period, and an Augsburg clock of the seventeenth -century, some very old and valuable paintings, and choice cabinets -of carved ebony. Among other curiosities was an illustration of the -funeral procession of Sir Philip Sidney. Mr. Parker then drew attention -to the exterior architectural style of the Buckingham Building, added -in the time of Richard II., and admirably restored by the architect. -The recent restoration of the Elizabethan Building had also been ably -done. The windows were especially noticeable, by the skilful manner -in which the work had been executed after the style of fragments -of the old work. The Elizabethan front was also an object of much -interest. The exterior architecture in the servants’ court was a noble -composition, full of interest. - -[Illustration: _The Hall and Minstrels’ Gallery._] - -Thus the “restorations” have been made in good taste and with sound -judgment; and the seat of the Sidneys has regained its rank as one of -the finest and most extensive edifices in the county of Kent. - -In the interior the “Hall” is remarkably fine and interesting, with -good architectural features. The pointed timber roof, upon which the -slates are laid, is supported by a series of grotesque life-size -corbels; and the screen of the gallery is richly carved and panelled. -The gallery—“The Minstrels’ Gallery”—fills the side opposite the -dais, and the Gothic windows are narrow and lofty. Every object, -indeed, calls to mind and illustrates the age of feudalism. The oak -tables, on which retainers feasted, still occupy the hall, and in its -centre are the huge dogs in an octagonal enclosure, beneath the louvre, -or lanthorn, in the roof, which formerly permitted egress to the smoke. - -“On each side of the hall,” writes Mr. Parker, “were two tables and -benches, which, if not actually contemporaneous with it, were certainly -among the earliest pieces of furniture remaining in England. There was -no doubt a similar—or probably a more ornamental—one on the daïs at -the upper end of the hall where the Elizabethan table now stood, which -was used by the lord and his more honoured guests, the side tables in -the lower part of the hall being for the domestics and retainers, and -guests of that class. One end of the daïs had been altered, so that the -original arrangement could not be seen; but there would necessarily -be at one end the sideboard, or buffet, filled with plate, arranged -on shelves to be well displayed, whilst it also formed a sort of -cupboard, with doors which could be closed and locked. This piece of -furniture was usually placed in the recess formed by a bay window in -halls of the fifteenth century, but it was doubtful whether the bay -window was in use as early as the fourteenth. At the opposite end of -the daïs was the door to the staircase of the solar or upper chamber, -used as the withdrawing-room for the ladies after dinner; and by its -side there was another door leading to the cellar. This was originally -the lower chamber under the solar, but afterwards there was often a -short passage to the cellar, which was sometimes underground, and the -original cellar, or lower chamber, became the parlour. But there were -always two chambers, one over the other, behind the daïs, the two -together often not reaching so high as the roof of the hall. The upper -room was the lord’s chamber, from which there was usually a look-out -into the hall, as a check to the more riotous proceedings after the -lord and his family or his guests had retired; or for the lords to -see that the guests were assembled before descending with his family -into the hall. In the centre of the hall was the original hearth or -reredos, almost the only one, he believed, remaining. By the side of it -were the andirons, or fire-dogs, for arranging logs of wood upon the -hearth, and over it was an opening in the roof, with a small ornamented -turret to cover it, called a smoke-louvre, which unfortunately had -been removed, after having been previously Italianised and spoilt. The -custom of having a large fire of logs of wood in the hall continued -long after fire-places and chimneys were used in the other chambers; -and it was a mistake to suppose that they were unknown in this country -until the fifteenth century. There were many fire-places and chimneys -of the twelfth and thirteenth centuries in the chambers, but it was not -customary to use them in the hall before the fifteenth. In spite of all -the modern contrivances for warming rooms, it might be doubted whether -for warming a large and lofty hall it was possible to obtain more heat -from the same quantity of fuel than was obtained from the open fire, -and where the space was so large and the roof so high that no practical -inconvenience could be felt from the smoke, which naturally ascended -and escaped by the louvre.” - -Leaving the hall, the Ball-room is entered; it is long and narrow, -the walls being covered with family portraits—some original, some -copies. Queen Elizabeth’s room succeeds: it contains much of the -furniture, tapestry-covered, that was placed there when the virgin -queen visited the mansion. In one corner is an ancient mandoline; some -portraits of the chiefs of the heroic race are here; and here is a -singular picture, representing Queen Elizabeth dancing with the Earl of -Leicester. The family portraits are gathered in the “Picture Gallery;” -it contains no others; none but a member of it has been admitted with -one exception—that of Edward VI., who gave the estate to the Sidneys. -Among them are several of Sir Philip and Algernon Sidney, one of Sir -Philip’s sister, the Countess of Pembroke, to whom he addressed the -“Arcadia,” and who is immortalised in the epitaph we have just given, -and one by Lely of the “Sacharissa” of the muse of Waller. A small -chamber in the mansion contains, however, a few treasures of rarer -value than all its copies of “fair women and brave men.” Among some -curious family relics and records is a lock of Sir Philip Sidney’s -hair; it is of a pale auburn. A lock of the hair of the ill-fated -Algernon is also with it, and in tint nearly resembles that of his -illustrious great-uncle. - -There are many other relics of interest and value scattered throughout -the mansion, but towards the close of the last century a grand -collection of ancient armour, worn by generations of the Sidneys, -richly emblazoned and inlaid, was sold as old iron that cumbered -one of the rooms of the house; while MSS. of inestimable worth, -including correspondence with the leading worthies of many centuries, -mysteriously disappeared, and were probably consumed as waste paper, -useful only for lighting fires. - -The church at Penshurst is dedicated to St. John the Baptist. It -immediately adjoins the park, and is connected, by a private walk, -with the gardens of the mansion. It is an ancient and very venerable -structure, containing many monuments to the Sidneys, and to members of -the families of Dragnowt, Cambridge, Egerton, Head, Darkenol, Pawle, -and Yden. The most interesting and beautifully wrought of the tombs is -to the memory of Sir William Sidney, Knight Banneret, Chamberlain and -Steward to Edward VI., and Lord of the Manor of Penshurst, who died -in 1553. It stands in a small chapel at the west end of the chancel, -and at the foot of the tomb is a very antique figure, carved in -marble, supposed to be a memorial to Sir Stephen de Pencestre. Below -is the vault which contains the dust of generations of the Sidneys. -Sir William Sidney’s monument is a fine example of art, elaborately -and delicately sculptured; it contains a long inscription, engraved -on a brass tablet, the lettering in which is as clear and as sharp -as if it were the work of yesterday. The roof of this chapel is -peculiarly light and elegant. In both exterior and interior it is -highly picturesque. The oak gallery is one of the earliest erections -of the kind that followed the Reformation. Mr. Parker, in his address -to the Archæological Society, thus spoke of the church:—“It exhibited -specimens of the architecture of various periods, and is interesting as -the burial-place of the ancient families that inhabited the mansion. -The north side was of the time of Henry III., and was probably built by -Sir Stephen Penchester; the south side in the time of Edward III. The -chancel chapel at the end of the south aisle was the burial-place of -the Pulteney family. There were also two chantry chapels on the north -side, one of the time of Edward I., and the other of the time of Henry -VI. Amongst the other interesting monuments and tablets there is one -commemorative of the late illustrious Lord Hardinge.” - -In all respects, therefore, a visit to PENSHURST—now by railroad -within an hour’s distance of the metropolis—may be described as a -rare intellectual treat, opening a full and brilliant page of history, -abundant in sources of profitable enjoyment to the antiquary, affording -a large recompense to the lover or the professor of Art, and exhibiting -nature under a vast variety of aspects.[32] - - - - -WARWICK CASTLE. - - -WARWICK CASTLE holds foremost rank among the Stately Homes of England, -both from its historical associations, and the important positions -which, in every age, its lords have occupied in the annals of our -country. Situated in one of the most romantic and beautiful districts -of a fertile and productive shire, overlooking the “sweet-flowing -Avon,” and retaining all its characteristics of former strength and -grandeur, Warwick Castle is renowned among the most interesting -remains of which the kingdom can boast. Of its original foundation, -like that of other of our older strongholds, nothing is really known, -although much is surmised. It is said to have been a Celtic settlement, -converted into a fortress by the Roman invaders. However this may -be—and there were several ancient British and Roman roads and stations -in the county—it is not our purpose to inquire. It will suffice to -say that at the time of the Roman conquest of Warwickshire, which is -said to have occurred about the year 50, the county was occupied by -two tribes of ancient Britons, the Cornavii and Dobuni, the boundary -between these territories being, it would seem, the river Avon. Near -the Avon, relics of frontier fortresses on either side have—as at -Brownsover, Brailes, Burton Dassett, Brinklow, &c.,—been found; the -principal British and Roman roads being the Icknield Street, the -Fosse Way, and Watling Street. Warwick is believed, and not without -reason, to have been one of these frontier fortresses; its situation -would seem to lend strength to the supposition. In Anglo-Saxon -times, Warwick formed a part of the kingdom of Mercia, the capital -of which was at Repton, in the neighbouring county of Derby. At that -period it “fell under the dominion of Warremund, who rebuilt it, -and called it Warrewyke, after his own name.” Having been taken and -destroyed by the Danes, it “so rested,” says Dugdale, “until the -renowned Lady Ethelfled, daughter to King Alfred—who had the whole -earldom of Mercia given her by her father to the noble Etheldred in -marriage—repaired its ruins, and in the year of Christ DCCCCXV made a -strong fortification here, called the dungeon, for resistance of the -enemy, upon a hill of earth, artificially raised near the river side;” -and this formed the nucleus of the present building. In 1016 it is -stated to have again suffered from an attack by the Danes, who nearly -demolished the fortifications of the castle and did great damage to the -town. At the time of making the Domesday survey, Warwick was a royal -burgh, and “contained 261 houses, and with its castle was regarded as -a place of much consequence; for orders were issued by the Conqueror -to Turchel to repair and fortify the town and castle of Warwick. -This was carried into effect, by surrounding the town with a strong -wall and ditch, and by enlarging the castle and strengthening its -fortifications.” - -In 1172 (19th Henry II.), Warwick Castle was provisioned and garrisoned -at an expense of £10 (which would be equivalent to about £200 of our -present money), on behalf of the king; and during those troublous times -it remained about three years in his hands. In 1173 a sum equal to -about £500 of our money was paid to the soldiers in the castle; and -in the following year, the building requiring considerable repair, -about £50 was laid out upon it, and a considerable sum was paid to -the soldiers who defended it for the king. In 1191 it was again -repaired, and also in the reign of King John. In the 48th of Henry -III. (1263), William Mauduit, Earl of Warwick, was surprised by the -adherents of Simon de Montfort, then holding Kenilworth, and the walls -of the castle were completely destroyed; indeed, so complete was the -devastation, that in 1315 “it was returned in an inquisition as worth -nothing excepting the herbage in the ditches, valued at 6_s._ 8_d._” -In 1337 (12th Edward III.) a new building was commenced, and in that -year a royal licence was granted for the founding of a chantry chapel -in the castle. The building was commenced by Thomas Beauchamp, Earl -of Warwick, whose monument is preserved in the Beauchamp Chapel. In -1394 (17th Richard II.) Guy’s Tower is said to have been completed by -Thomas Beauchamp, second son of the last named Thomas, at a cost of -£395 5_s._ 2_d._, and by him to have been named “Guy’s Tower.” In the -reign of James I. a sum of about £20,000 was expended by the then owner -of the castle, Fulke Greville, Lord Broke, “in making it habitable and -restoring it to its former importance.” From this time downwards, the -castle has undergone many alterations, and so-called “beautifyings,” at -the hands of its different owners; but, despite all, it retained its -ancient grandeur and its most interesting features, and was, as Sir -Walter Scott has said, “the fairest monument of ancient and chivalrous -splendour which remains uninjured by time.” - -[Illustration: _The Castle, from the Temple Field._] - -And now as to its long line of illustrious and valiant owners. - -Passing over the whimsical list of earls, &c., in Rous’s Roll, beginning -with “King Guthelyne, about the sixth of Kinge Alexander the greate -conqueror,” and “Kinge Gwydered, who began to reigne the 4th yere -from the birth of our Lord,” reminding one very forcibly of the -“Promptuaire des Medalles,” which commences the series with those of -“Adam” and of “Heva vx Adam,”—the first we need even hint at, so -obscure is the matter, is Rohan de Arden, who is stated to have married -a daughter and heiress of “Æneas, Earl of Warwick, in the time of -the Saxons,” and to have succeeded to that title and estates. Rohan -de Arden is said to have lived in the reigns of Alfred and Edward -the Elder, and to have been succeeded by the “renowned Guy,” Earl of -Warwick (the legend connected with him will be noticed on subsequent -pages), who had married his only daughter and heiress, Felicia. This -Sir Guy “is said to have been son of Syward, Lord of Wallingford, which -possession Guy also enjoyed.” “He was often in conflicts with the Danes -in defence of his country; did many brave exploits; and, lastly, as -the story goes, after his return from the Holy Land, retired from the -world, and turn’d hermit, and lived in an adjacent cave, now called -‘Guy’s Cliff,’ wherein he died, and was buried in a chapel there, -anno 929, aged about seventy years, leaving issue, by Felicia his -wife, Reynborne,” who succeeded him, and “married Leonora, or Leoneta, -daughter to King Athelstan.” From him the descent is said to have been -continued in regular succession through father and son (Wegeat or -Weyth, Wygod, Alcuin or Aylwin, &c.) to Turchel, who was earl at the -time of the Norman Conquest, and who was allowed by that monarch to -retain possession of the estates, but was ultimately deprived of both -them and of the earldom. - -The castle having been strengthened and enlarged, its custody was given -to Henry de Newburgh, a Norman, who had accompanied the Conqueror, -and to him was afterwards granted all the possessions of Turchel de -Warwick, and he was made Earl of Warwick. By some he is said to have -married the daughter of Turchel, but he is also stated to have married -three other ladies. He was succeeded by his son, Roger Newburgh, as -second Earl of Warwick, who married Gundred, daughter of the second -Earl Warren, by whom he had a son, William, who succeeded him as third -earl, and dying without issue, was succeeded by his brother Walleran -as fourth earl, who married twice—first, Margaret de Bohun, and -second, Alice de Harcourt. By his first wife he had two sons, Henry, -who succeeded him, and Walleran. Henry de Newburgh, fifth Earl of -Warwick, was a minor at his father’s death in 1205, and was placed -under Thomas Bassett, of Headington, near Oxford. In the thirteenth -year of King John, he was certified as holding 107 knights’ fees of the -king _in capite_. Having led an active military life, and married two -wives—Margaret D’Oyley and Philippa Bassett—he died 1229, and was -succeeded as sixth earl by his son, Thomas de Newburgh. - -[Illustration: _The Keep, from the Inner Court._] - -This nobleman married a daughter of the Earl of Salisbury, but died -without issue. His sister and heiress, Margery, who was married to -John de Mareschal, brother to the Earl of Pembroke, succeeded to the -estates, and her husband became seventh earl. This honour he did not -enjoy long, but died without issue “within about half a year of his -brother-in-law the late earl.” The widow then, by special arrangement -of Henry III., married John de Placetis, or Plessitis, a Norman by -birth, and a great favourite of the king. By the Countess of Warwick -he had no issue, and therefore at her death the estates passed to her -cousin, William Mauduit, Baron of Hanslape, who died without issue. -The title and estates then at his death passed to his sister, Isabel -Mauduit, wife of William de Beauchamp, heir of Walter de Beauchamp, -Baron of Elmley, who thus through her became heir to the title, which -however,—she having entered a nunnery,—was not claimed, but passed, -in the person of their son William, into the powerful family of -Beauchamp. By Isabel Mauduit William de Beauchamp the elder had four -sons—William, who succeeded him; John, whose grandson was created -Baron Beauchamp; Walter, ancestor of Fulke Greville, Lord Broke; and -Thomas, who died unmarried. William de Beauchamp, who bore the title -of Earl of Warwick during his father’s lifetime, married Maud, one -of the co-heiresses of Richard Fitzjohn, by whom he had issue with -others, Guy de Beauchamp, who succeeded him as Earl of Warwick. This -Guy, so called, no doubt, after the “renowned Guy,” attended the -king into Scotland, and for his valour at the battle of Falkirk, had -granted to him all the lands of Geoffrey de Mowbray in that kingdom, -with the exception of Okeford, and all the lands of John de Strivelin, -with the castle of Amesfield, and the lands of Drungery. He was one -of the noblemen who seized Piers Gaveston,—against whom he held a -mortal hatred for having called him “the black hound of Arden,”—whom -he conveyed to Warwick Castle, from whence he was removed to Blacklow -Hill, near Warwick, and beheaded. This Guy married Alice, sister and -heiress to Robert de Toni, Baron of Flamstead, and widow of Thomas de -Leybourne, and by her had issue two sons and five daughters. He died -(it was suspected by poison) in 1315, and was succeeded by his eldest -son, Thomas de Beauchamp, who married Catherine Mortimer, daughter of -the Earl of March, by whom he had issue seven sons and ten daughters. -The sons were—Sir Guy, “a stout soldier,” who died in his father’s -lifetime, leaving three daughters, all nuns, at Shouldham; Thomas, his -successor; Reynbourne, so called in memory of the son of the “renowned -Guy;” William, who became Lord Abergavenny; Roger, John, and Jerome. - -[Illustration] - -Thomas Beauchamp, the eldest son, who succeeded to the honours, was -knighted in the lifetime of his father. He, like his predecessor, made -many additions to the castle, the principal of which was the building -of Guy’s Tower. Having passed a troublous life, being at one time -confined and condemned in the Tower of London, he died in 1401, leaving -by his wife Margaret, daughter of Lord Ferrars of Groby, two daughters, -nuns, and one son, Richard Beauchamp, who succeeded him. This Richard, -Earl of Warwick, is said to “have surpassed even the great valour and -reputation of his ancestors;” and, indeed, his career seems altogether -to have been one of the most brilliant and successful on record; and -besides having a special herald of his own, “Warwick Herald,” he was -styled the “Father of Courtesye.” “He founded the Chantry of Guy’s -Cliff, where before this foundation were Guy’s Chappel and Cottage.” -In this he placed the statue of Guy (still seen, though much defaced), -made several pious donations, and died at Roan in the 17th of Henry VI. -There is extant a very remarkable and curious MS. Life of this renowned -warrior; it is preserved in the British Museum (Julius, E. IV.). -In it the illuminations are very spirited, and are highly valuable -as examples of armour, &c., of the time, no less than as genuine -representations of various valiant deeds in which he was engaged. - -[Illustration] - -Three of these we give. Our first shows the figures of the Earl of -Warwick and Humphrey, Duke of Gloucester, from a picture of the fight -with Philip, Duke of Burgundy, before Calais. The next represents “how -a mighty duke challenged Erle Richard (Beauchamp) for his lady sake, -and in justyng slewe the Duke, and then the Empresse toke the Erle’s -staff and bear from a knight’s shouldre, and for great love and favour -she sett it on her shouldre. Then Erle Richard made one of perle and -precious stones, and offered her that, and she gladly and lovynglee -reseaved it.” The engraving shows the Earl vanquishing the Duke—his -lance has run through his body—and the heralds proclaiming his -victory. Behind are the Emperor Sigismund and his Empress, the latter -of whom is taking, as recounted, the Earl’s badge of the bear and -ragged staff from the shoulders of the knight to place upon her own. On -the Earl’s helmet will be seen his crest of the bear and ragged staff. - -[Illustration] - -In the third engraving we see the Earl of Warwick setting out in his -own ship, on a pilgrimage to the Holy Land. He is dressed in pilgrim -guise, and, staff in hand, is just stepping into the boat to be -conveyed to the ship, his attendants and luggage following him. The -ship is sumptuously fitted with castle and state apartments, and has -the sail emblazoned with the Beauchamp arms, and the pennon, besides -the St. George’s cross of England, bears the bear and ragged staff many -times repeated. This badge will be best understood by the accompanying -engraving. The Earl had two wives; first, Elizabeth, daughter and -heiress of Thomas, Lord Berkley; and second, Isabel, daughter of Thomas -le Despencer, Earl of Gloucester. He was succeeded by his son Henry, -who was then barely fourteen years old. - -[Illustration] - -This Henry de Beauchamp—who had during his father’s lifetime been -called De Spencer, through his mother’s possessions—when only nineteen -years of age tendered his services to Henry VI. for the defence of -Acquitane, for which the king created him Premier Earl of England, -with leave to distinguish himself and his heirs male by wearing in his -presence a gold coronet. - -Three days later, he was created DUKE of Warwick, with precedence -next to the Duke of Norfolk. After this, he had granted to him, in -reversion, the Islands of Guernsey, Jersey, Sark, Erme, and Alderney, -which he was to hold for the yearly tribute of a rose. He was also by -his sovereign crowned King of the Isle of Wight, his Majesty himself -placing the crown upon his head. This young nobleman, however, with all -his honours thick upon him, lived but a short life of greatness, and -died at Warwick at the early age of twenty-two, in 1445. He married -Cicely, daughter of Richard Nevil, Earl of Salisbury, by whom he had an -only child, Anne, Countess of Warwick, who died when only six years of -age, leaving her aunt Anne, wife of Richard Nevil, Earl of Salisbury, -heir to the titles and estates, and thus they passed to the family of -Nevil. - -This Richard Nevil, then Earl of Warwick, is the one so well -known in English history as “the stout Earl of Warwick, the -king-maker,”—“peremptory Warwick,” the “wind-changing Warwick,” of -Shakspere—who, “finding himself strong enough to hold the balance -between the families of York and Lancaster, rendered England during -the reign of his power a scene of bloodshed and confusion; and made -or unmade kings of this or that house as best suited his passions, -pleasures, or interests. His life was passed in wars and broils, -destructive to his country and his family.” He was killed at the battle -of Barnet in 1471. He left issue two daughters, Isabel, married to -George, Duke of Clarence and brother to Edward IV.; and Anne, married -first to Edward, Prince of Wales, and secondly, to his murderer, -Richard, Duke of Gloucester, subsequently King Richard III. To the -eldest of these daughters, Isabel, came the Warwick estates; and her -husband, George Plantagenet, Duke of Clarence, was, by his brother -Edward IV., created Earl of Warwick and Salisbury. That ill-fated and -indiscreet nobleman, however, did not live to carry out improvements he -had commenced at Warwick. His wife was poisoned; and he himself, later -on, was attainted of high treason, and was drowned in a butt of Malmsey -wine in the Tower, by order of his brother, the Duke of Gloucester. - -[Illustration: _Cæsar’s Tower._] - -During all this time, Anne, Countess of Warwick, widow of Richard -Nevil, had undergone great privations—her possessions being taken from -her for her daughters’ husbands—and had been living in obscurity; -by Act 3rd Henry VII. she was recalled from such obscurity to be -restored to the possessions of her family; “but that was a refinement -of cruelty, for shortly after obtaining possession she was forced” to -surrender to the king all these immense possessions. After her death, -Edward Plantagenet, eldest son of George, Duke of Clarence, assumed -the title of Earl of Warwick, but was beheaded on Tower Hill. On his -death the title was held in abeyance, and was, after a time, granted -to John Dudley, Viscount Lisle, who was descended in the female line -from the old Earls of Warwick. This John Dudley, Earl of Warwick, and -Viscount Lisle, was made Lord High Chamberlain, a Knight of the Garter, -Lord Warden of the North, and Earl Marshal: and was created Duke of -Northumberland, but was attainted for the part he took relating to -Lady Jane Grey, and beheaded on Tower Hill in 1553. He married Jane, -daughter of Sir Edward Guildford, by whom he had a large family, of -whom the eldest, Henry, was killed at the siege of Boulogne; the -second, John, was called Earl of Warwick during his father’s lifetime; -Ambrose, who was created Earl of Warwick; Guildford, who was beheaded -with his father; Robert, who was created Earl of Leicester, and -others. In 1557 Ambrose Dudley, the third son, having obtained a -reversion of the attainder, had the estates restored to him, and was -re-created Earl of Warwick. He married three wives, but had no issue by -either, and dying in 1589, the title became extinct. - -[Illustration: _The Castle, from the Bridge._] - -In 1618 the title of Earl of Warwick was conferred by James I. on -Robert, Lord Rich, but, not being descended from the former earls, the -estates did not fall into his hands. Dying in a few months after his -creation, he was succeeded by his son, Robert Rich, Lord High Admiral -for the Long Parliament, whose son (afterwards Earl of Warwick) married -Frances, the youngest daughter of Oliver Cromwell. After passing -through five other members of this family, the title again became -extinct, on the death of the last earl of that name, Edward Rich, in -1759. - -In November of that year (1759) the title was conferred upon Francis -Greville, Lord Brooke, of the long and illustrious line of the -Grevilles, and a descendant of Fulke Greville, the “servaunt to Quene -Elizabeth, Concellor to King James, and Frend to Sir Philip Sidney,” -to whom we have alluded in our account of Penshurst. Francis, Lord -Brooke, succeeded his father in the barony, when only eight years of -age. In 1746 he was raised to the dignity of Earl Brooke, of Warwick -Castle; and in 1759 was created Earl of Warwick, with patent to bear -the ancient crest of the earls—the bear and ragged staff. He married -a daughter of Lord Archibald Hamilton, by whom, besides others, he had -a son, George Greville, who succeeded him as second earl of that line. -His lordship married, first, Georgiana, only daughter of Lord Selsey, -who died soon after the birth of her only child, a year after marriage; -the child, a son, living to the age of fourteen. He married, secondly, -Henrietta, daughter of R. Vernon, Esq., and his wife, the Countess of -Ossory, and sister of the Marquis of Stafford. By that lady he had -three sons and six daughters. Dying in 1816, he was succeeded by his -eldest son, Henry Richard Greville, as Earl Brooke, Earl of Warwick, -&c., who, in 1816, married Lady Sarah Elizabeth Saville, daughter of -the Earl of Mexborough, and widow of Lord Monson: she died in 1851. By -this lady his lordship (who died in 1853) had an only son, the present -peer. - -George Guy Greville, Earl Brooke, Earl of Warwick, and Baron Brooke of -Beauchamp’s Court, all in the peerage of the United Kingdom, was born -in March, 1818, and was educated at St. John’s College, Cambridge, -where he took his degrees. In 1853 he succeeded his father as fourth -Earl of Warwick, of that line, and in the previous year (1852) married -the Lady Ann Charteris, eldest daughter of the Earl of Wemyss, by -whom he has issue living, four sons and one daughter, viz.:—the -Hon. Francis Richard Charles Guy Greville (Lord Brooke), born in -1853, his heir-presumptive; the Hon. Alwyn Henry Fulke Greville, -born in 1854; the Hon. Louis George Greville, born in 1856; the Hon. -Sidney Robert Greville, born in 1866; and the Hon. Eva Sarah Louisa -Greville, born in 1860. His lordship, who sat in Parliament for South -Warwickshire from 1846 to the time of succeeding to the title in 1853, -is Lieutenant-Colonel of the Warwickshire Yeomanry, a Trustee of Rugby -School, and is patron of five livings. - -The arms of the present peer are—_sable_, on a cross within a -bordure, all engrailed, _or_, five pellets. Crests—first, out of a -ducal coronet, _gules_, a demi-swan with wings expanded and elevated, -_argent_, for Brooke; second, a bear sejant, supporting a ragged -staff, _argent_, muzzled, _gules_, for Beauchamp, &c. Supporters—two -swans, wings inverted, _argent_, ducally gorged, _gules_. Motto, “Vix -ea nostra voco.” - -[Illustration: _The Castle, from the Island._] - -Having thus glanced at the history of the place, and spoken of the -long line of noble and illustrious owners, both of the estates and the -title, let us turn to the castle itself, as it stood and was furnished, -at the time of our visit. Alas! that we should have to write this in -a past sense, and say “stood” in place of “stands.” Alas! that within -a few short weeks of our visit, and of our writing these notes, a -great part of the building was “gutted” by fire, and many of its -most important and interesting features destroyed. It is, however, -being rapidly and wisely restored, and doubtless will, ere long, rise -“phœnix-like” from the ashes, with renewed beauty. We give our notes as -we wrote them before this calamity occurred. - -THE Castle occupies the summit of a steep hill, which must greatly have -aided its artificial defences in the “olden time.” The present approach -to it is by a narrow passage cut through the solid rock, and extending -from the main entrance to the porter’s lodge fronting the road to -Leamington. Passing through this lodge, the visitor, after proceeding -some distance along the rocky passages, enters the outer court-yard, -“where the stupendous line of fortifications breaks suddenly upon the -sight in all its bold magnificence.” Of the two famous towers that -of Guy is on the right, while that of Cæsar is on the left; they are -connected by a strong embattled wall, in the centre of which is the -ponderous arched gateway, flanked by towers, and succeeded by a second -arched gateway, with towers and battlements, “formerly defended by two -portholes, one of which still remains; before the whole is a disused -moat, with an arch thrown over it at the gateway, where was once a -drawbridge.” Passing the double gateway the court-yard is entered. Thus -seen, the castellated mansion of the most famous of the feudal barons -has a tranquil and peaceful aspect; fronting it is a green sward and -the “frowning keep,” which conceals all its gloomier features behind a -screen of ivy and evergreen shrubs. Uninjured by time, and unaltered in -appearance by modern improvements, except in being surrounded and made -picturesque by trees and shrubs, it still stands, as of old, on the top -of its mound. The “Bear Tower,” with a flight of steps descending to a -subterranean passage, leading no one knows whither, will be noticed, as -also will “Guy’s Tower.” - -From the inner court a flight of stone steps leads to the entrance to -the GREAT HALL, which is of large size; its walls are decorated with -arms and armour of various periods and descriptions, and with antlers -and other appropriate objects. On one side of this hall are the state -rooms, and on the other the domestic apartments, forming a line of -333 feet in length. The Hall, and indeed the whole of the interior, -have been “subjected to the deleterious influence of the upholsterer,” -and are made gorgeous and beautiful in accordance with modern -taste, while they have lost their original features and interesting -characteristics. This work was, however, done some time ago, and -it must remain as it is: comfort and convenience have been studied -certainly; but all associations with the glory of ancient Warwick were -rejected by the modern architect in his restoration of the apartments -of the venerable castle. In the hall, however, there are many objects -of rare interest; among others the helmet studded with brass worn -by the Protector Cromwell; the suit of armour worn by Montrose; the -doublet, “blood-spotted,” in which Lord Broke was slain at Lichfield, -in 1643; and the warder’s horn, the history of which is told in this -inscription:— - - PHIL · THOMASSINUS · FEC · ET · EXCUD · CUM · PRIVIL · SUMMI · - PONTIFICES · ET · SUPERIOR : LICENTIA · ROMÆ · FLORUIT · 1598. - -There is also a breech-loading revolving musket, some hundreds of years -old probably, which, but for the evidence of Time, might seem a direct -plagiarism on the revolver of Colonel Colt. The roof of the hall was -designed by the architect Poynter. - -[Illustration] - -The RED DRAWING-ROOM contains many fine paintings and several articles -of _vertu_. - -The CEDAR DRAWING-ROOM is a remarkably elegant apartment, sumptuously -furnished, and having a magnificent and, said to be, unique chimney -piece. In this room are many remarkably fine paintings, including -“Charles I.,” by Vandyck; “Circe,” by Guido; the “Family of Charles -I.,” &c.; and some highly interesting bronzes, Etruscan vases, &c. The -main feature of— - -The GILT DRAWING-ROOM is its superb geometric ceiling, which is richly -painted and gilt—the walls being decorated in a corresponding manner. -Among the paintings in this room may be noted the “Earl of Strafford,” -by Vandyck; “Algernon Percy,” by Dodson; “Charles I.,” “Henrietta -Maria,” and “Prince Rupert,” by Vandyck; “Ignatius Loyola,” by Rubens; -“Robert Bertie, Earl of Lindsay,” by Cornelius Jansen; “Robert Rich, -Earl of Warwick,” after Vandyck; a “Young Girl,” by Murillo; “Robert -Dudley, Earl of Leicester,” and many others. - -The STATE BED-ROOM. The bed and furniture in this room are said -originally to have belonged to Queen Anne, and were presented to the -Warwick family by King George III. The walls are hung with Brussels -tapestry of the date of 1604. The bed and hangings are of crimson -velvet. Over the chimney-piece is a fine full-length portrait of Queen -Anne by Sir Godfrey Kneller; the room also contains other interesting -paintings and ornaments. - -The BOUDOIR is a lovely little room, forming the extreme west end of -the suite of rooms. The ceiling is enriched with the family crest -and coronets, and there are among the paintings a portrait of Henry -VIII. by Holbein;[33] of the Duchess of Cleveland, Barbara Villiers, -by Lely; “A Dead Christ,” by Carracci; “A Boar Hunt,” by Rubens; -“Martin Luther,” by Holbein; “A Sketch of the Evangelists,” by Rubens; -and examples of Gerard Dow, Teniers, Salvator Rosa, Hayter, Vandyck, -Holbein (Anne Boleyn and Mary Boleyn being especially interesting), -Andrea del Sarto, &c., &c. - -The COMPASS-ROOM contains many fine old paintings and much among its -articles of _vertu_ that will interest the visitor. In— - -The CHAPEL PASSAGE, too, are highly interesting paintings; and in the -CHAPEL are some stained glass and interesting local relics. - -The GREAT DINING-ROOM, built by Francis, Earl of Warwick, is a noble -room, decorated with some fine antique busts and paintings. Among the -latter will be specially noticed portraits of “Sir Philip Sidney,” -considered the best in existence, and bearing in the corner the -words, “The Original of Sir Philip Sidney;” “Robert Dudley, Earl of -Leicester;” “Frederick, Prince of Wales;” “The Princess of Wales and -George III. when an Infant;” and many family portraits. At the east -end is the celebrated “Kenilworth Buffet,” manufactured by Cookes of -Warwick, from an oak-tree on the Kenilworth estate, and representing -in its panels various incidents connected with Queen Elizabeth’s visit -to that venerable pile, and presented to the present earl, on his -marriage, by the town and county of Warwick. - -[Illustration: _The Castle, from the Outer Court._] - -The private apartments of the Castle consist of a remarkably elegant -suite of rooms, which are, of course, not shown to visitors. Of these, -therefore, only a few words need be said. The ARMOURY PASSAGE and the -ARMOURY contain a rare assemblage of arms and armour of various ages -and descriptions, and many antiquities and “curiosities,” as well as -mineralogical, geological, and other collections of great interest. In -the BILLIARD-ROOM, the OAK SITTING-ROOM, the EARL’S ROOM, and all the -remaining apartments, are many remarkably fine paintings. - -Throughout the state apartments, as well as the private rooms, is -distributed a marvellous collection of treasures of art—“superb -garde-robes, encoigneurs, cabinets, and tables of buhl and marqueterie -of the most costly finish; splendid cups, flasks, and vases in ormolu, -crystal, china, and lava; Etruscan vases, marble and _pietra dura_ -tables; bronzes and busts displaying the utmost efforts of art; costly -bijouteries, and rare antiques;” more especially a large collection of -Limousin enamels are among the treasures which meet the eye at every -turn in the interior of Warwick Castle. - -It will be readily understood that the prospect from any of the windows -is singularly beautiful; so beautiful, indeed, that if the stately -castle lacked all other interest, a look over these grand woods, a fair -stream consecrated by the bard of Avon, richly cultivated gardens, and -rare trees of prodigious size, would amply compensate the visitor. - -In the grounds are many charming objects and delicious spots, -concerning some of which the visitor, naturally, will desire -information. Of these, CÆSAR’S TOWER is one of the most sadly -interesting, from the fact that beneath it is a dark and damp dungeon, -in which many a sad heart has died out in solitude. On the walls are -some touching inscriptions and rude carvings done by the miserable -beings who have been incarcerated there. Among these the following is -specially curious:— - - Ma_ʃ_TER : IOHN : SMyTH : GVNER : TO : HIS : - MAIESTyE : HIghNES : WAS : A PRISNER IN THIS - PlACE : AND : lAy HERE frOM 1642 TEll th - WillIAM SIDIaTE ROT This SAME - ANd if My PIN HAd Bin BETER fOR - HIs sake I WOVlD HAVE MENdEd - EVERRi leTTER. - -That was the last person known to have been confined in the dungeon. -Besides this, there are crosses, crucifixes, cross-bows, and other -objects and inscriptions traceable on the walls. - -GUY’S TOWER (to which we have alluded, and which forms our initial -letter on page 206) contains several rooms appropriated to various -purposes. Its summit is reached by a flight of 133 steps—a most -fatiguing ascent, but amply repaid by the magnificent panoramic -view obtained from the battlements. Hence “are seen the spires of -the Coventry churches, the Castle of Kenilworth, Guy’s Cliff, and -Blacklow Hill; Grove Park, the seat of Lord Dormer; Shuckburgh and -the Shropshire Hills; the Saxon Tower on the Broadway Hills; the -fashionable spa of Leamington, which appears almost lying underneath -the feet, and the wide-extended park; while village churches, lifting -up their venerable heads from amidst embowering trees, fill up a -picture pleasing, grand, and interesting. In the various rooms will -be noticed carvings and inscriptions which possess interest. From -the BEAR COURT a portcullised doorway in the north wall opens to the -moat, across which is a bridge leading to the pleasure-grounds and -CONSERVATORY. In this is placed one of the wonders of the “Stately -Home”—the celebrated _Warwick Vase_, rescued from the bottom of a lake -at Adrian’s Villa, near Tivoli, by Sir William Hamilton, from whom it -was obtained by the late Earl of Warwick. - -[Illustration: _The Inner Court, from the Keep._] - -It has been copied a hundred times, and its form and character -are known to every reader. It stands on a pedestal formed for its -reception, on which is this inscription:— - - HOC PRISTINÆ ARTIS - ROMANÆ Q. MAGNIFICENTIÆ MONUMENTUM - RUDERIBUS VILLÆ TIBURTINÆ - HADRIANO AUG. IN DELICIIS HABITÆ EFFOSSUM - RESTITUTI CURAVIT - EQUES GULIELMUS HAMILTON - A GEORGIO III., MAG. BRIT. REX - AD SICIL REGEM FERDINANDUM IV. LEGATUS - ET IN PATRIAM TRANSMISSUM - PATRIO BONARUM ARTIUM GENIO DICAVIT - AN. AC. N. CIC. DCCLXXIV. - -From the conservatory, after crossing the lawn, the banks of the river -are gained, and after passing the PAVILION, the visitor reaches a spot -from which the immense height of the castle on its rocky base is best -seen. Returning to the HILL TOWER, the magnificent cedars of Lebanon -and chestnuts will strike the eye; but the visitor will pass on to the -top of the mount on which, in Saxon times, the stronghold of Ethelfleda -was erected, and he will then find much for his mind to dwell upon. - -[Illustration: _Guy’s and the Clock Tower, from the Keep._] - -In the PORTER’S LODGE are preserved a number of relics, said to have -belonged to the “Renowned Guy”—but, as they represent so many periods, -they must have appertained to “Many Guys.” The articles shown are -“Guy’s Porridge-pot;” “Guy’s Sword,” for taking care of which William -Hoggeson, Yeoman of the Buttery, had a salary of 2_d._ a day, temp. H. -VIII.; parts of his armour, of which the “bascinet is of the time of -Edward III.; and a breastplate partly of the fifteenth century, and -partly of the time of James I.; the sword of the reign of Henry VIII.; -the staff, an ancient tilting lance;” the horse armour of the fifteenth -century; the “flesh fork;” and other articles, among which are his -fair “Felicia’s slippers,” which are a pair of footed stirrup-irons of -the fifteenth century. The “rib of the dun cow,” and a joint of the -spine of the same, as well as the tusk and blade bone of a wild boar, -are also shown, and are still looked upon with wonder, as belonging -to veritable animals slain by Guy. There are also other “curiosities” -shown in this lodge, and visitors eagerly inspect them, often as -greater attractions than matters more worthy. Into the wild old legend -connected with Guy, Earl of Warwick, it is not necessary here to -enter at length. It was a popular legend in the Middle Ages, and his -encounter with the Danish champion, Colbrand, as well as his victory -over the dun cow, was a favourite subject of the wandering minstrel. -Dugdale has given the narrative of his battle with Colbrand, which he -seems inclined to believe to be true in the main features, although -“the monks may have sounded out his praises hyperbolically.” According -to him, “in year three of King Athelstan, A.D. 826, the Danes having -invaded England, cruelly wasted the countrys where they marcht, so that -there was scarce a town or castle that they had not burnt or destroyed -almost as far as Winchester,” where the king resided, and to whom they -sent a message, requiring him to resign his crown to their generals, -holding his power at their hands, and paying them yearly tribute for -the privilege of ruling; or that the whole dispute for the kingdom be -determined in a single combat, by two champions for both sides. The -king having chosen the latter alternative, enjoins a fast for three -days, and, in great anguish of heart that Guy the famous warrior is -absent on a pilgrimage to the Holy Land, prays Heaven for assistance. -An angel appears to the king as he is on his bed, and directs him to -arise early on the morrow, and take two bishops with him to the north -gate of the city, and stay there “till the hour of prime,” until the -poor people and pilgrims arrive, among whom he must choose a champion, -and the choice must fall upon him who goes barefooted, with a wreath of -white roses on his head. The king goes and meets the pilgrim, accosts -him, and asks his championship, which he hesitates to give, excusing -himself on the ground of his weakness with much travel, and exhorts -him to seek fitter help. To this the king bitterly answers, “I had but -one valiant knight, which was Earl of Warwick, called Guy, and he had -a courageous servant, named Sir Heraud de Ardene; would to God I had -him here, for then should this duel be soon undertaken, and the war -finished; and as he spake these words, the tears fell from his eyes.” - -[Illustration: _The Castle, from the banks of the Avon._] - -The pilgrim is moved, and ultimately consents, and after three weeks -spent in prayer and preparation the battle begins. Colbrand “came so -weightily harnessed, that his horse could scarcely carry him, and -before him a cart loaded with Danish axes, great clubs, with knobs -of iron, squared bars of steel, lances, and iron hooks, to pull his -adversary to him.” The giant uses a bar of steel in the combat, which -lasts the whole day. Guy in the end proving victorious, and taking -a farewell of the king, to whom he declares himself, goes towards -Warwick, and thence to a hermit in its neighbourhood, living with -him till his death, and succeeding him in his cell until his own -decease.[34] The spot is still pointed out, and bears the name of -Guy’s Cliff. But this is not the only giant-story connected with the -family. Their well-known crest, or cognisance, is said to come from one -Morvidus, an Earl of Warwick in the days of King Arthur, “who being -a man of valour, slew a mighty gyant in a single duell, which gyant -encountered him with a young tree pulled up by the root, the boughs -being nog’d from it; in token whereof, he and his successors, Earles -of Warwick in the time of the Brittons, bore a ragged staff of silver -in a sable shield for their cognisance.” Other stories are the combat -and overcoming of the famous dun cow, the slaying of a ferocious lion, -and “the greatest boar that man e’er saw,” the killing of “the mighty -dragon in Northumberland that destroyed men, women, and children,” and -the killing of the fifteen armed knights. Such were the old fables with -which our ancient family histories were obscured, or rendered romantic -and wonderful to the subordinate classes. - -Intimately connected with Warwick Castle and its former lords, is the -Beauchamp Chapel attached to St. Mary’s Church. The chapel is one of -the most exquisitely beautiful buildings remaining in this country, and -ought to be seen by every visitor to Warwick. It is placed on the south -side of the choir of the church, from which it is entered by a descent -of several steps beneath a doorway said to have been carved by a mason -of Warwick in 1704, but probably being only a freshening and touching -up, or restoration, of the original design. The size of the chapel is -58 feet in length, 25 in breadth, and 32 in height, and its design and -finish are of the most chaste and beautiful and elaborate character. -It was built in the reign of Henry VI., in accordance with the will of -its founder, Richard Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick, who died in 1439. The -foundation was laid in 1443, and in 1475 the chapel was consecrated, -and the body of its founder with much solemnity laid therein. It is -stated to have cost £2,481 4_s._ 7_d._, an enormous sum in those days, -when the value of a fat ox was only 13_s._ 4_d._: and the contracts for -some of the work are still preserved. In the chapel is the monument -of the founder, which is, with only one exception, the most splendid -monument of its kind in the kingdom. It is an altar-tomb of Purbeck -marble, bearing the recumbent effigy of the great earl, in fine latten -brass, gilt. His head, uncovered, rests upon a helmet, and at his feet -are a bear and a griffin. The tomb is surmounted by one of the few -“hearses” that yet remain in our churches. It consists of six hoops -of brass, extended by five transverse brass rods, on which formerly -was hung a pall, “to keep the figure reverently from the dust.” Around -the tomb, in niches, are fourteen figures in “divers vestures, called -weepers,” friends and relatives of the deceased who mourn his loss. -Between the weepers are smaller niches, raised upon pillars, containing -whole-length figures of angels holding scrolls, inscribed “Sit deo -laus in gloria, defunctis misericordia.” The effigy of the earl is the -finest of its class, and it is a perfect figure, the armour on the -back, and all the details being as highly and carefully finished as -those on the front of the figure. For this effigy in brass, William -Austen was paid (exclusive of cost of workmen, carriage, &c.) £40, and -the goldsmith, Bartholomew Lambespring, was paid £13 for gilding it; -the “weepers” cost in brass, 13_s._ 4_d._ each, and the angels 5_s._ -each; and the gilding of these, and preparing them for gilding, cost -also a considerable sum—the contracts being of the highest interest, -and very minute in every particular. - -[Illustration: _The Beauchamp Chapel, monument of the founder._] - -In the same chapel are monuments, &c., to Robert Dudley, Earl of -Leicester, and his Countess Lettice, 1588; to Ambrose Dudley, Earl of -Warwick, 1589; to Robert Dudley, Lord Denbigh, 1584; to Lady Katherine -Leveson, and others. - -The windows were filled with stained glass, for which the contract with -John Prudde of Westminster is preserved; but it has undergone much -change and mutilation: it still, however, especially that of the east -window, is of great beauty.[35] Adjoining the chapel is an exquisite -little oratory, with a confessional near; of these we give engravings. - -[Illustration: _The Confessional._] - -The Church of St. Mary is of considerable antiquity, and is mentioned -in Domesday Book. The Norman Earl, Henry de Newburgh, formed the -intention of uniting the endowments of St. Nicholas within the Castle -with St. Mary’s, which was carried out by his son, whose grant of -incorporation was executed in 1123. Probably the church was built about -that time, as the crypt is of Norman character. In the reign of Edward -III., Thomas Beauchamp ordained by his will in 1369, that a choir -should be erected; and many alterations have at one time or other been -made. A great part of the church was burnt down in 1694, and rebuilt at -a cost of £5,000, to which Queen Anne contributed £1,000. In the crypt -is preserved the ducking stool. - -[Illustration: _The Oratory._] - -It is desirable to add a word or two concerning “Guy’s Cave” and the -“Statue of Guy” at Guy’s Cliff, to which the visitor ought by all -means to “wend his way.” Indeed, the town of Warwick, and the whole of -the neighbourhood by which it is surrounded, is one grand assemblage -of interesting objects, of which the mind cannot tire or become -satiated. To all we have described—the towers, the lodges, the several -apartments of the castle, and to the gardens and grounds—the publicly -is freely, graciously, and generously admitted: a boon for which we are -sure every visitor will be grateful. - -One of the few remaining “antiques” that yet endure to the town we -have selected for engraving—the EAST GATE; but, as will be seen, the -base only can be considered ancient; it has been “transmogrified,” yet -is still striking and interesting. The Earl of Leicester’s Hospital, -founded by Robert Dudley in 1586, is a singularly beautiful and perfect -specimen of the half-timber houses; it escaped the great fire that -nearly destroyed the town in 1694. There are not many other ancient -edifices in the venerable town. - -[Illustration: _Warwick: the East Gate._] - -Thus, it will be readily understood that a day at Warwick supplies a -rare treat; not only to the antiquary, and the historian, but to the -lover of nature. The best views of the Castle are obtained from the -opposite side of the Avon, near a narrow stream crossed by a bridge, -which is part of the main road;[36] of the old bridge there are some -remains, rendered highly picturesque by ivy and lichens that grow in -profusion there, and near the old mill, the date of which is coeval -with that of the Castle. Superb trees grow in the immediate grounds, -huge chestnuts and gigantic cedars, that have sheltered the stout earls -time out of mind: the walls are grey with age; but it is a sober livery -that well suits the stronghold of the bold barons, and suggests the -tranquillity of repose after the fever of battles, sieges, and deeds -that cannot fail to be summoned from history as one looks from the -filled-up moat to the towers and battlements that still smile or frown -upon the environing town they controlled or protected. - -It demands but little imagination to carry the visitor of to-day back -through long-past centuries, from the moment we enter the picturesque -yet gloomy passage cut through the rock, covered with ivy, lichens, -and wild flowers in rich abundance, and pass under the portcullis that -yet frowns above the porter’s lodge: the whole seems so little changed -by time, that one might wait for the king-maker and his mighty host to -issue through the gateway, and watch the red rose or the white rose -on the helmets of attendant knights; by no great stretch of fancy one -might see the trembling Gaveston, the petted minion of a weak monarch, -dragged forth to death: a hundred events or incidents are associated -with these courts and towers, inseparably linked with British history; -and it is impossible to resist a feeling of reverence approaching awe -while pacing peacefully among them. - -The “frowning keep,” nearly hidden by the green foliage of surrounding -trees, may be accepted as an emblem of the Castle; where tranquillity -and peace are in the stead of fierceness and broil. Warwick, while it -has lost little of its grandeur, has obtained much of grace from time; -Time which - - “Moulders into beauty many a tower, - That when it frowned with all its battlements - Was only terrible.” - - - - -HADDON HALL. - - -[Illustration: _Dorothy Vernon’s Door._] - -HADDON HALL is, perhaps, the most interesting, and is certainly -the most attractive, of all the ancient mansions of England: and -none have been so fertile of material to Artists. Situate in one -of the most picturesque, if not the most beautiful, of our English -shires, absolutely perfect as an example of the Baronial Halls of our -ancestors, and easily accessible by charming routes from populous -towns, it is not surprising that it should be visited annually by tens -of thousands; and that in America it is regarded as one of the places -in the “Old Country,” which no visitors, even of a week, to the classic -land of their History, should neglect to see, examine, and describe. - -HADDON HALL is distant fourteen miles from BUXTON; perhaps the most -fashionable, as it certainly is one of the most cheerful, and, we -believe, the most healthful of all the Baths of England. Its waters are -as efficacious, in certain ailments, as are those of Southern Germany; -while the surrounding district is so grand and beautiful, so happily -mingling the sublime and the graceful, as to compete, and by no means -unfavourably, with the hills and valleys that border the distant Rhine. - -The poet, the novelist, the traveller, the naturalist, the sportsman, -and the antiquary have found appropriate themes in Derbyshire, in -its massive rocks—“Tors”—and deep dells; its pasture-lands on -mountain-slopes; its rapid, yet never broad, rivers—delights of the -angler; its crags and caves; its rugged and ragged or wooded steeps; -above all, its relics of the earlier days when Briton, Roman, Saxon, -and Norman, held alternate sway over the rich lands and prolific mines -of this lavishly endowed county; and of a later time, when shrewd monks -planted themselves beside the clear streams and rich meadows, to which -they bequeathed magnificent ruins to tell of intellectual and material -power in the time of their vigorous and prosperous strength. - -Unequivocal evidence exists that the Romans knew the curative -properties of the Baths at Buxton; and it is almost certain, from the -many Celtic barrows and stone circles found in the neighbourhood, that -a still earlier race was acquainted with them. Probably, therefore, -for more than a thousand years Buxton has been one of the principal -“health-resorts” of this island. Yet few remains of antiquity exist -in the town. The dwelling—in which was lodged Mary, Queen of Scots, -on her several visits, while in custody of the Earl of Shrewsbury, -and to which “good Queen Bess,” while sojourning at Kenilworth, sent -the Earl of Leicester, that he might drink of the healing waters, -“twenty days together”—was removed just a century ago: a handsome and -very commodious hotel occupies the site: it is still called the “Old -Hall;” and immediately behind it are the two springs—the Saline and -the Iron—the Chalybeate and the Tonic. On a window-pane of one of the -rooms in this Old Hall, Mary, Queen of Scots, is said to have scratched -the following touching and kindly farewell—the pane of glass having -been preserved until recent years:— - - “Buxtona, quæ calidæ celebrare nomine lymphæ, - Forte mihi posthac non adeunda vale!” - -Cheerfulness is the handmaid of health: and, although there are many -patients in and about Buxton, they do not seem to suffer much: there -are more smiles than moans in the pump-room; and rheumatism is not a -disease that makes much outer show of anguish. - -It would be difficult to find in any part of the British dominions a -drive so grandly beautiful as that between Buxton and Haddon. Within -half a mile of its centre is “the Duke’s Drive” (formed in 1795 by the -then Duke of Devonshire): it runs through Ashwood Dale, Miller’s Dale, -and Monsal Dale, passing “the Lover’s Leap” and “Chee Tor”—stupendous -crags, from the crevices of which grow small trees, partially crowned -and covered with ivy, ferns, and lichens, groups of varied foliage -intervening; with here and there umbrageous woods; and the river -Wye—not the “sylvan Wye, thou wanderer through the woods,” of -Wordsworth, but its namesake of lesser fame, that has its source a mile -or two north of Buxton—journeying all the way, until at Rowsley it -joins the Derwent (not the Derwent of the English lakes), from whence -the blended waters, running by Matlock, Belper, and Derby, flow into -the Trent, and so make their way to the sea. - -[Illustration: _Haddon, from the Meadows on the Bakewell Road._] - -To give a list of the several objects that delight the eye and mind -during this comparatively short drive, would fill more pages than we -have at our disposal. The lowest part of the town of Buxton is one -thousand feet above the level of the sea; the naturalist, the botanist, -and the geologist will find treasure-troves in any of the surrounding -hills and valleys: while natural marvels abound, within a few miles, -in all directions—such as Poole’s Hole, the Blue-John Mine, the Ebbing -and Flowing Well, and the Peak Cavern, with its summit crowned by the -fine old castle of “Peveril of the Peak.” Majestic Chatsworth—to -which, on certain days, the people are admitted, the park being at all -times freely open to all comers—is distant about three miles from -Haddon, across Manners Wood and intervening hills: in short, there are -a hundred places of deep interest within a drive of Buxton, and, if it -be a long drive, Dovedale—the loveliest dale in England—is easily -reached; so, indeed, is far-famed Alton Towers. - -From Manchester and Buxton the way to Haddon is through the ancient -town of Bakewell, to the venerable parish church of which we shall, in -due course, conduct the reader—for it contains the monuments of THE -VERNONS. But before entering the old Hall, we must ask the reader to -glance at another route to Haddon—that which he will probably take if -his tour be made direct from London. - -No doubt many visitors to Haddon will start from DERBY; and if the road -from Buxton is charming, so also is that from the capital of the shire: -it is more open; the vales are wider; the views are more extensive; -there are the same attractions of hill and dell and rock and river; -cottages embosomed in foliage; church steeples seen among richly-clad -trees; clean and happy-looking villages; and distant towns, never -indicated, except in one case—that of Belper—by the chimneys and -sullen shadows of manufactories. For more than twenty miles there is an -unbroken continuation of scenic loveliness, such as, in its calm and -quiet charm, its simple grace, and all the attractions of home nature, -can be found nowhere else in the wide world. - -Leaving Derby, and passing by the famous “Boar’s Head” cotton -manufactory of Messrs. Evans on the left, and Breadsall on the right, -the first station arrived at is Duffield, a delightful village, where -was once the castle of the Peverels, and so on to Belper, famous for -its cotton mills of the Messrs. Strutt; thence through a delightful -country to the pleasant Junction of Ambergate, from whence the railway -runs by the picturesque village of Cromford, the creation of one -great man, Sir Richard Arkwright; Matlock Bath, the most popular and -beautiful of inland watering-places, whose villa residences peep out -from the heights in every direction, and whose “High Tor” frowns down -upon the railway beneath; Matlock Bridge, whose hill-side of Matlock -Bank is studded with famous hydropathic establishments; and Darley -Dale, with its fine old church, and grand old yew tree, the largest in -the kingdom, until the train stops at Rowsley. Here the passenger for -Haddon, or Chatsworth, will alight, and here he will find conveyances, -should he care to ride on. Here too he will find a pleasant hostel, -“The Peacock,” in which to refresh the inner man. - -[Illustration: _The Peacock at Rowsley._] - -“The Peacock” at Rowsley is one of the prettiest and pleasantest inns -in “all England:” it has ever been in high favour with “brethren of -the angle”—long before the neat and graceful railway station stood -so near it that the whistle of the train is audible a dozen times a -day, and twice or thrice at night. The fine old bridge close at hand -throws its arches across the Derwent; neatly and gracefully trimmed -gardens skirt the banks of that clear and bright river, into which -flows the Wye about a furlong off; and rivers, meadows, rocks and -dells, and hills and valleys “all round about,” exhibit to perfection -the peculiarities of the vale, so rich in the beautiful and the -picturesque. “The Peacock” is the nearest inn to Haddon; and here -hundreds of travellers from all parts of the world have found not only -a tranquil resting-place, but a cheerful home.[37] We have thought it -well to picture it, and have placed at its doors one of the waggonettes -that drive hither and thither from Buxton and other places; and the -tourist may rest assured that this pretty inn is indeed a place at -which he may “rest, and be thankful.” - -[Illustration: _Haddon, from the Rowsley Road._] - -At Rowsley the tourist is but three miles from Chatsworth, and two -miles from Haddon. A pleasant walk through the valley brings him in -sight of Haddon Hall; and from this road he obtains, perhaps, the best -view of it. Partly hidden, as it is, by tall and full-leaved trees, -its grandeur is not at once apparent; but the impression deepens as he -ascends the steep pathway and pauses before the nail-studded door that -opens into the court-yard. - -Before we proceed to describe the HALL, however, we shall give -some accounts of its earlier owners—the VERNONS—reserving for an -after-part the history of their successors, the illustrious family of -MANNERS, from their origin, as knights, to the period of their high -elevation, as Earls and Dukes of Rutland, and so down to the present -time. - -The history of Haddon, unlike that of most of our ancient baronial -residences, has always been one of peace and hospitality, not of war -and feud and oppression; and however much its owners may, at one period -or other, have been mixed up in the stirring events of the ages in -which they lived, Haddon itself has taken no part in the turmoils. It -has literally been a stronghold: but it has been the stronghold of home -and domestic life, not of armed strife. - - * * * * * - -[Illustration: _Arms of Vernon quartering Avenell._] - -HADDON, at the time of taking the Domesday survey, when the manor of -Bakewell belonged to, and was held by, the king, was a berewite of -the manor; and there one carucate of land was claimed by Henry de -Ferrars. Over-Haddon, a village two or three miles off, on the hills, -was also another berewite of the same manor. To whom Haddon belonged -in the Saxon period is not clear; the first owner of which there is -any distinct knowledge is this Henry de Ferrars, who held it in 1086, -and who, by grant of the Conqueror, had no less than 114 manors in -Derbyshire alone; he built Duffield Castle, and founded the Church of -the Holy Trinity, near the Castle of Tutbury. - -Haddon was at a very early period held, it is said, by tenure of -knight’s service, by William Avenell, who resided there, and was -possessed of much land in the neighbourhood. Soon after the foundation -of Roche Abbey, in 1147, William de Avenell, Lord of Haddon, gave to -that establishment the grange of Oneash and its appurtenances. One -of the daughters and co-heiresses of William de Avenell, Elizabeth, -married Simon Bassett, of the fine old family of Bassett, owners of -much property in this and the neighbouring counties; the other married -Richard de Vernon; and thus Haddon passed into that noted family, of -which we proceed to give some particulars. - -The House of Vernon is of very considerable antiquity, and derives its -name, as do many others in the Baronage of England, from its primitive -domicile in Normandy—the _Châtellenie_ of Vernon, forming one of -the territorial subdivisions of that country: the castle, with its -hereditary lords, is recorded in the Anglo-Norman chronicles. According -to the present territorial division of France, Vernon is a commune in -the _Département de l’Eure_ and _Arrondissement d’Evreux_; and as being -the _chef-lieu_, gives name to the canton in which it is situate. From -this locality, one of the most picturesque and luxuriant of the vine -districts, the family of Vernon takes its origin; and also the ancient -family of De Redvers—the two families, indeed, being originally -identical, the name of De Redvers having been assumed by a Vernon in -the eleventh century, from the place of his residence, Révière, in -Normandy: his family were “Comtes de Révières and Vernon, and Barons -de Néhou;” both families tracing from the d’Ivry stock. Mauriscus -d’Ivry (father of Robert d’Ivry), who was father of Alselin Goël—the -names of whose sons, Roger Pincerna, surnamed “the stammerer,” Lord of -the Castle of Grossœuvre; William Lupellus (Lovel), who acquired the -castle of Ivry on the death of his elder brother; and Robert Goël—are -well known in history; the one as holding the Honour of Ivry in right -of his descent from Count Ralph, uterine-brother of Richard I., Duke -of Normandy; another as the founder of the family of Lovel; and the -third as having held his castle of Grossœuvre against King Stephen; -he had a son, Baldwin, who took the surname of De Revers from the -place of his residence: and two generations later, William, the son -of Richard, assumed the name of Vernon, from the _Châtellenie_ of -that name which he held. His son, Hugh de Revers, or Vernon, usually -called Hugh de Monachus, had a son, William de Vernon, Lord of Vernon, -who founded the Abbey of Montebourg. By his wife Emma he had issue -two sons, Walter and Richard: the latter of whom, Richard de Redvers -(as the name became afterwards spelled), or Vernon, came over at the -Conquest, and was created Baron of Shipbroke in Cheshire. He married -Adeliza, daughter of William Peverel of Nottingham, and received with -her in frank-marriage—that is, a free gift of an estate given with a -wife on her marriage, and descendable to their joint heirs—the manor -of Wolleigh, Buckinghamshire. One of these sons, Baldwin de Redvers, -was created Earl of Devon, and from him descended the line of earls of -that name; while William de Redvers, who inherited the Norman baronies -of Vernon, Révières, and Néhou, re-assumed the surname of Vernon from -those possessions. He had an only son and heir, Hugh de Vernon, Baron -of Shipbroke, who married a daughter of Raynold Badgioll, Lord of -Erdiswicke and Holgrave. By this lady he had a numerous issue: the -eldest, Warin, continuing the barony of Shipbroke; Matthew, inheriting -the lordships of Erdeswicke and Holgrave, who was ancestor of the -Vernons of those places, and Richard, already alluded to. This Richard -de Vernon married Avice, the daughter and co-heiress of William de -Avenell, Lord of Haddon; his other daughter and co-heiress marrying Sir -Simon Bassett. By marriage with this lady Richard de Vernon acquired -Haddon and other estates, and thus became settled at Haddon Hall. -He had issue, an only daughter and heiress, who married Gilbert le -Francis; and their son, Richard le Francis, took the name of Vernon, -on coming into the property, and settled at Haddon. He married Mary, -daughter of Robert, Baron of Stockport. His descendant, Sir Richard -Vernon, Lord of Haddon and of Appleby, &c., married Maude, daughter and -co-heiress of William de Camville, by whom he had an only son and heir, -William Vernon, who was only ten years of age at his father’s death in -1422, when he was found heir to his grandfather. In 1330 he obtained -a grant of free warren, or the exclusive right of killing beasts and -birds of warren within prescribed limits in the royal forests, &c., -from the king. He married Joan, daughter of Rhee, or Rhis, ap Griffith, -and heiress of Richard Stackpole, and had issue by her Sir Richard -Vernon, Knt., of Pembrugge (sometimes called Sir Richard de Pembrugge), -Lord of Haddon and Tonge, which latter lordship he acquired by his -marriage with the sister and heiress of Sir Fulke de Pembrugge, or -Pembridge, Lord of Tonge in Shropshire. Their son, Richard Vernon, was -father of Richard Vernon, Treasurer of Calais, Captain of Rouen, and -Speaker in the Parliament at Leicester in 1426. By his wife, Benedict, -daughter of St. John Ludlow of Hodnet, he had issue, with others, Sir -William Vernon, Knt., who, marrying Margaret, daughter of Sir Robert -Pype of Spernore, acquired that manor and lordship. He was buried at -Tonge, where a monument was placed to his memory. - -His son, or grandson, Sir Henry Vernon, was made governor to Prince -Arthur by King Henry VII., with whom he was a great favourite. He -married Anne, daughter of John, second Earl of Shrewsbury, by Elizabeth -Butler, daughter of James, Earl of Ormond. By this marriage he had -issue, Sir Henry Vernon, who was made High Steward of the King’s Forest -in the Peak by Henry VIII., and held many other posts. He had issue, -two sons, Sir George Vernon and Sir John Vernon. Sir Henry died in -1515, and was succeeded by his oldest son, Sir George, “the King of the -Peak,” who succeeded to the Haddon and other estates, as will presently -be shown. - -[Illustration: _Arms of Lord Vernon._] - -Sir John Vernon, Knt., married Helen, daughter and co-heiress of John -Montgomery, of Sudbury, in Derbyshire, with whom he received the -Sudbury and other estates, and thus founded the family of Lords Vernon. -He was one of the King’s Council in Wales, and Custos Rotulorum of -Derbyshire, and dying in 1540, was buried at Clifton Camville. He was -succeeded by his son, Henry Vernon, who, in his turn, was succeeded -by his son, John Vernon, who married Mary, widow of Walter Vernon, of -Houndhill, and daughter of Sir Edward Littleton, of Pillaton Hall, -by whom, however, he had no issue. On his death in 1600, the estates -passed to his stepson, Edward Vernon, the eldest son of his wife by her -former husband, the family consisting of three surviving sons—Edward, -Thomas, and Walter—and four daughters. By this lady, while a second -time a widow, Sudbury Hall is said to have been erected. Edward Vernon -was succeeded by his son, Henry Vernon, who married the sole daughter -of Sir George Vernon, of Haslington, in Cheshire, and by her had -issue a son, George, who succeeded him. This George Vernon was thrice -married: first to Margaret, daughter of Edward Onely, by whom he had -no issue; and, third, to Catherine, daughter of Sir Thomas Vernon, -Knt., merchant, of London. By this lady he had a numerous family, and -was succeeded by his eldest and sole-surviving son and heir, Henry -Vernon, who married, first, Anne, sole daughter of Thomas Pigott, -Esq., and heiress of her mother, who was sister and sole heiress of -Peter Venables, last Baron Kinderton; and, second, Matilda, daughter -of Thomas Wright, Esq., of Longston. Henry Vernon, who thus inherited -the estates of the Venables, assumed that surname in addition to his -own. He had issue by his first wife, among others, a son, George -Venables-Vernon, by whom he was succeeded. George Venables-Vernon -married three times. By his first wife, the Hon. Mary Howard, daughter -and co-heiress of Thomas Howard, sixth Lord Howard of Effingham, he had -issue a son, the second Lord Vernon, and a daughter, Mary, married to -George Anson, of Orgrave, the father of the first Viscount Anson. By -his second wife, Anne, daughter of Sir Thomas Lee, he had no issue; -but by his third wife, Martha, sister to Simon Harcourt, first Earl -Harcourt, he had a numerous family, as will be shown. This George -Venables-Vernon was created Baron Vernon of Kinderton in 1762, and at -his death was succeeded in his titles and estates by the eldest son -of his first marriage, George Venables-Vernon, as second Lord Vernon, -who married, first, the Hon. Louisa Barbarina, daughter of Bussey, -Lord Mansell, by whom he had an only daughter, who died unmarried; -and, second, to Georgiana, daughter of William Fanquier, Esq., by whom -he had also an only daughter, Georgiana, married to Lord Suffield. -His lordship was succeeded in title and estates by his brother, the -Hon. Henry Vernon, as third Lord Vernon. This nobleman—whose brother -Edward took the surname of Harcourt, and became Archbishop of York, -and one of whose sisters, as has been shown, married the father of -the first Viscount Anson, and another, Elizabeth, became the wife of -George Simon, second Lord Harcourt—married twice. By his first wife, -Elizabeth Rebecca Anne, daughter of Charles Sedley, Esq., of Nuttall, -his lordship had issue two daughters (one of whom the Hon. Catherine, -died unmarried; and the other, the Hon. Louisa Henrietta, married the -Rev. Brooke Boothby, Prebendary of Southwell) and one son, George -Charles Venables-Vernon, who succeeded him as fourth Lord Vernon. This -nobleman married, in 1802, Frances Maria, daughter and heiress of -Sir John Borlase Warren, Bart., K.B., of Stapleford, by whom he had -issue the Hon. George John Venables-Vernon, fifth Lord Vernon, who -assumed the surname of Warren by sign manual in 1837, for himself and -the children only who should be born after that date. His lordship -married twice: first to Isabella Caroline, eldest daughter of Cuthbert -Ellison, Esq., M.P., by whom he had issue the present Lord Vernon, -and the Hon. William John Borlase Warren Venables-Vernon (who assumed -the additional surname of Warren), and three daughters; and second, -in 1859, his cousin, Frances Maria Emma, daughter of the Rev. Brooke -Boothby, who still survives him, without issue. Lord Vernon, as the -Hon. George John Vernon, was M.P. for Derbyshire from 1830 until, on -the death of his father, he entered the Upper House. He was one of the -most energetic supporters of the rifle movement, being himself the most -skilful rifle-shooter of his day, carrying off the principal prizes at -the various Swiss Tirs, as well as elsewhere. As a scholar his lordship -ranked very high, and the “Dante,” edited by him, is the most sumptuous -work of its kind ever attempted. Lord Vernon died in 1866, and was -succeeded by his eldest son, the Hon. Augustus Henry Venables-Vernon, -as sixth Lord Vernon, the present peer, who was born in Rome in 1829, -and was Captain in the Scots Fusilier Guards, and Captain Commandant -of the Second Battalion of Derbyshire Rifle Volunteers. His lordship -married, in 1851, Lady Hariet Anson, daughter of the Earl of Lichfield, -by whom he has issue two sons and four daughters. - -Having now shown the descent of the Lords Vernon from the old lords of -Haddon, we return to the “King of the Peak”—Sir George Vernon—and -his heiresses. He, as has been stated, succeeded to the estates in -1515, and at the time of his death, in 1567, was possessed of no fewer -than thirty manors in Derbyshire alone. He was married twice: first, -to Margaret, daughter of Sir Gilbert Taylebois, Knt.; and, secondly, -to Maude, daughter of Sir Ralph Langford. He had issue, two daughters, -his co-heiresses, Margaret and Dorothy, whose husbands inherited his -immense possessions. Margaret Vernon married Sir Thomas Stanley, Knt., -of Winwick, in Lancashire, second son of Edward Stanley, third Earl of -Derby; and Dorothy Vernon, whose name has become “a household word” in -this locality, married Sir John Manners, Knt., second son of Thomas -Manners, first Earl of Rutland, and direct ancestor of the present Duke -of Rutland. To this branch we shall presently have to refer at greater -length. - -Sir George Vernon lived at Haddon in such a style of princely -magnificence and hospitality as to earn for himself the title of “King -of the Peak.” It is said that he was generous and hospitable, as well -one of as just and strict, of men, although given perhaps to undue -severity and to an indulgence in “Lynch law;” and that he lived and -died in the “good esteem” of all men. - -One tradition, briefly told, will sufficiently illustrate the firmness -and decision of his character, and the power he held over the actions -and even the lives of the people around him. It is related that a -pedlar who had been hawking his wares in the neighbourhood was found -murdered in a lonely spot. He had been seen the evening before to enter -a cottage, and never afterwards seen alive. As soon as Sir George -became aware of the fact of the crime having been committed, he had the -body of the pedlar removed to Haddon, laid in the hall, and covered -with a sheet. He then sent for the cottager to come immediately, and, -on his arrival, at once questioned him as to where the pedlar was who -was seen to enter his house the night before. The man denied having -seen him or knowing anything about him; when Sir George uncovered the -body before him, ordering that all persons present should touch the -body in succession, at the same time declaring their innocence of the -murder. The suspected man, when his turn came, declined to touch the -body, and instantly rushed out of the Hall, and made his way, “as fast -as his legs could carry him,” through Bakewell and towards Ashford. -Sir George instantly ordered his men to mount and follow him, and to -hang him wherever they caught him. The murderer was caught in a field -opposite the present toll-bar at Ashford, and at once hanged, and the -field still bears the name of the “Gallows Acre,” or “Galley Acre.” -Sir George is said to have been cited to London for this extraordinary -piece of Lynch law, and when he appeared in court he was summoned twice -to surrender as “the King of the Peak.” To these he made no reply, and -the third time he was called on as Sir George Vernon, when he stepped -forward and acknowledged himself—“Here am I!” Having been summoned as -“the King of the Peak,” the indictment fell through, and Sir George -was admonished and discharged. Sir George Vernon is buried in Bakewell -Church, where a remarkably fine and well-preserved altar-tomb bears the -recumbent effigies of himself and his two wives. - -Dorothy Vernon, the youngest daughter and co-heiress of Sir George, and -over whom such “a halo of romantic interest” rests, is said to have -been one of the most beautiful of all beautiful women, and possessed -of so sweet a temper, that she was idolised by all who knew her. If it -were so, however, the monument at Bakewell does not fairly represent -her, for it exhibits her with an expression of countenance far from -either amiable or attractive. The story of her life, according to -popular belief, is that, while her elder sister, fortunate in an open -attachment to Sir Thomas Stanley, the son of the Earl of Derby, and -his affianced bride, was petted and “made much of,” she, the younger, -was kept in the background, having formed a secret attachment to -John Manners, son of the Earl of Rutland—an attachment which was -opposed by her father, sister, and stepmother; she was, therefore, -closely watched, and kept almost a prisoner. Her lover is said to have -disguised himself as a woodman, or forester, and to have remained -in hiding in the woods around Haddon for several weeks, in order to -obtain stolen glances of, and occasional brief meetings with, Dorothy. -At length, on a festive night at Haddon—tradition states it to have -been on one of the “merry meetings,” consequent on the marriage of her -sister Margaret—Dorothy is said to have stolen away unobserved in the -midst of the merriment in the ball-room, and to have quietly passed out -of the door of the adjoining ante-room on to the terrace, which she -crossed, and having ascended the steps on the other side, her lover’s -arms received her; horses were in waiting, and they rode off in the -moonlight all through the night, and were married in Leicestershire -the next morning. The door through which the heiress eloped is always -pointed out to visitors as “Dorothy Vernon’s Door.” - -Thus the Derbyshire estates of Sir George Vernon passed to John -Manners, and thus it was the noble house of Rutland became connected -with Haddon and the county of Derby. - -[Illustration: _Haddon: from the Meadows._] - -John Manners, the husband of Dorothy Vernon, was knighted shortly -after his marriage. They had issue three sons: Sir George Manners, who -succeeded to the estates; John Manners, who died in 1590, aged 14; and -Sir Roger Manners of Whitwell, who died in 1650; also one daughter, -Grace, who became the wife of Sir Francis Fortescue. Dorothy died -in 1584, and her husband in 1611. They were both buried in Bakewell -Church, where their monument will no doubt be looked upon with interest -by all visitors to the district. - -Haddon continued to be one of the residences of this branch of the -Manners family, ennobled in 1641 by the inheritance of the Rutland -peerage, until they quitted it in the early part of the last century -for Belvoir Castle, of which we shall, on a future occasion, take note. - -[Illustration: _The Main Entrance._] - -The HALL stands on a natural elevation—a platform of limestone—above -the eastern bank of the Wye: the river is crossed by a pretty, yet -venerable, bridge, passing which, we are at the foot of the rock, -immediately fronting the charming cottage which is the lodge of -the custodian who keeps the keys. In the garden we make our first -acquaintance with the boar’s head and the peacock—shaped from growing -yew-trees—the crests of the families whose dwelling we are about to -enter. This cottage adjoins the old stables; their antiquity is denoted -by several sturdy buttresses. To the right of the great entrance-door -are the steps—placed there long ago—to assist ladies in mounting -their steeds, when ladies used to travel sitting on a pillion behind -the rider: the custom is altogether gone out; but in our younger days, -not only did the farmer’s wife thus journey to market, but dames of -distinction often availed themselves of that mode of visiting, carrying -hood and farthingale, and hoop also, in leathern panniers at their -sides, and jewels for ornament in caskets on their laps. - -The visitor now stands before the old gateway, with its massive -nail-studded door, and will note the noble flight of freestone steps, -where time and use have left the marks of frequent footsteps. Indeed, -the top step—just opposite the small entrance wicket in the larger -door—is actually worn through in the shape of a human foot. He will -also notice the extreme beauty and elegance of design of the Gothic -architecture of this part of the building, and the heraldic bearings -with which it is decorated. Beneath the entrance archway on the right -is the guard-room of the “sturdy porter” of old times: his “peep-hole” -is still there, the framework of his bedstead, and the fire-place that -gave him comfort when keeping watch and ward. - -[Illustration] - -After mounting the inner steps, the visitor passes into the first -court-yard, and will not fail to notice the remarkable character of the -splaying and chamfering of the building in the angle over the inner -archway. This is one of the most remarkable features of the building. -Its strange character is to some extent occasioned by the winding of a -double spiral stone staircase, leading to the tower over the entrance -archway. The inside of this gateway, with the enormous hoop, said to -have been the hoop of a mash-tub, hanging on the wall, is shown in our -vignette. - -We are now in the lower court-yard, and at once perceive that Haddon -consists of two court-yards, or quadrangles, with buildings surrounding -each. Immediately opposite the gateway are the stone steps that lead -to the state apartments; to the right is the chapel, and to the left, -the HALL proper, with its minstrels’ gallery and other objects of -curious—some of unique interest. The general arrangement will be -best understood by the ground-plan, which, however, requires some -explanation. - -[Illustration: - - GROUND AND GARDEN PLAN OF HADDON] - -On account of the abruptness of the slope on which Haddon is built, it -stands so unevenly, that a horizontal line drawn from the ground in the -archway under the Peverel Tower would pass _over_ the entrance archway. -Consequently, that archway, the porter’s lodge, and entrance to the -spiral staircase on its right hand, and on the left the two rooms -entered from the walk behind the partition wall, and before mounting -the steps, form what may, looking at it in that light, be called a -basement story, to which also belongs the cellar, entered by a flight -of fourteen steps descending from the buttery. Lysons, in his “Magna -Britannia,” vol. v., engraves—first, a basement plan, comprising the -entrance archway and the low rooms above alluded to; second, a ground -plan; third, a plan of the upper floor, including the ball-room and -other state rooms; and the numerous bed-rooms and other apartments on -the north and west sides. These plans are extremely correct and minute: -it transpires from letters in the Lysons’ correspondence (Addit. -MS. 9,423, British Museum), that they were made by the surveyor of -the then duke, to illustrate a little privately printed account of -Haddon, written by himself, and were lent to Lysons for his work by -D’Ewes Coke, Esq., barrister-at-law, then steward to the duke. The -designations given by Lysons to the apartments are therefore probably -correct. From his lists, and a curious catalogue of the apartments -at Haddon, date 1666, we gather the general inference that the rooms -on the west side of the lower court were, in the latter days of its -occupation, occupied by the officials of the household; those on the -entire south side were the state rooms; those on the east side of the -upper court were the family apartments—the bed-rooms extending down -to the intersection of the lower court; those over the front archway, -&c., were the nursery apartments; and the library is believed to have -occupied the rooms between these and the entrance tower. - -There are second-floor apartments, not planned in Lysons, over the -Peverel Tower and its adjoining rooms, and over one half of the north -side, from that tower to the junction of the courts. Also solitary -second-floor rooms in the Entrance Tower, Central Tower, and over the -staircase leading to the ball-room. There is but one third-floor room, -it is in the Eagle Tower, and is the highest apartment in the Hall. - -The plan we engrave will be found the most useful to visitors. It gives -the ground-plan irrespective of levels (which would only be bewildering -to the visitor), with the exception of the slightly elevated ball-room -and state-rooms in the upper court-yard. In fact, from even these being -entered from the terrace, the whole of the plan we have prepared may, -for _general_ purposes, be said to be that of the ground-floor. - -On the east side there are but slight differences between the -ground-floor and first-floor rooms, excepting those over the kitchen -and adjoining offices, and over the central archway. On the south side -the differences are material. The ball-room covers six ground-floor -cellar rooms. The drawing-room is over the dining-room; and the earl’s -bed-chamber and other rooms are over the long narrow ground-floor -passages between that and the chapel. On the west side also the -arrangement differs considerably. - -[Illustration: _The first Court-yard._] - -Some portions of the building are of undoubted Norman origin, and -it is not unlikely that even they were grafted on a Saxon erection. -Norman remains will be noticed in the chapel, and, therefore, it is -certain that that portion of the building, as well as others which -could be pointed out, are the same as when the place was owned by the -Peverels and Avenells. Before the year 1199, John, Earl of Morteigne, -afterwards King John, by writ directed to his justices, sheriffs, -bailiffs, ministers, and all his lieges, granted a licence to Richard -de Vernon to fortify his house of Haddon with a wall to the height of -twelve feet, without kernel (or _crenelle_, which was an open parapet -or battlement with embrasures or loopholes to shoot through), and -forbidding his being disturbed in so doing. This interesting licence, -now in possession of the Duke of Rutland, is as follows:—“Johannes -com. Moret. justic. vice-com. baillivis, ministris, et omnibus -fidelibus suis salutem. Sciatis me concessisse et licenciam dedisse -Ric. de Vern. firmandi domum suum de Heddon, muro exaltato xij pedibus -sine kernello, et idem prohibeo nequis vestrum eum inde disturbet. -Test. Rob. de Mara apud Clipeston.” It is endorsed “Breve patens Com. -Johannis.” - -[Illustration: _Gateway under the Eagle Tower._] - -The earliest portions of the buildings of Haddon now remaining appear -to be a part of the chapel, and lower portions of the walls of the -south front and of the north-east tower. To the next period, from 1300 -to about 1380 (according to Duesbury), belong the hall-porch, the -magnificent kitchen and adjoining offices, the great or banqueting -hall, the lower west window of the chapel, part of the north-east -tower, and part of the cellarage under the long gallery. In the third -period, from about 1380 to 1470, were added the east, and part of the -west end of the chapel, and the remaining buildings on the east side of -the upper court-yard. The fourth period, from 1470 to 1530, comprises -the fittings and interior finishings of the dining-room, the western -range of buildings in the lower court, and the west end of the north -range. The fifth period, from about 1530 to 1624, seems to comprise -alterations in the upper court-yard, the long gallery, and terrace and -gardens; the pulpit, desk, and pews in the chapel; and the barn and -bowling-green. The juxtaposition of the kitchen and great hall show -that they belong to the same period. The alterations since that period -appear mainly to have been necessary repairs. - -[Illustration: _The Chaplain’s Room._] - -The principal apartments of Haddon Hall are the Chapel, the Great, or -Banqueting-Hall, with the Minstrels’ Gallery occupying two sides of it; -the Dining-room; the Drawing-room; the earl’s Bed-room and adjoining -suite of rooms; the Ball-room, or Long Gallery; the Ante-room, from -which Dorothy Vernon’s door opens on to the terrace; the State -Bed-room; the Ancient State Room, or Page’s Room; the Kitchens; and -the Eagle, or Peverel, or King John’s Tower. The entrance in this -latter was the principal entrance to the Hall, and communicated with -Rowsley and Bakewell by an old road which still exists. It was the -only entrance by which horsemen or carriages could enter the Hall. -The gateway by which visitors now enter, being intended only for -foot-approach, mounted guests had to leave their horses at the gate. -Passing in by this gateway, the visitor enters the first, or lower -court-yard, and sees around him the chief features of this once gay, -but now deserted mansion, grand in its solitude and attractive in its -loneliness. - -[Illustration: _The Chapel._] - -The first room usually shown to visitors is the so-called CHAPLAIN’S -ROOM, the first door on the right, after mounting the steps into the -lower court. In this small room, and in the closet attached to it, -several objects of interest are preserved. Among these are a pair of -remarkably fine fire-dogs, a warder’s horn, gigantic jack-Boots, -a thick leathern doublet, some matchlocks and some pewter dishes. -In this room, a few years ago, a remarkably curious and interesting -washing-tally, engraved and described in the “Reliquary,” was found -behind the wainscoting. The articles enumerated on this curious -relic are “ruffes,” “bandes,” “cuffes,” “handkercher,” “capps,” -“shirtes,” “halfshirts,” “boote hose,” “topps,” “sockes,” “sheetes,” -“pillowberes,” “tableclothes,” “napkins,” and “towells.” It is in the -possession of the Duke of Rutland. - -The CHAPEL, which, after the so-called Chaplain’s Room, is the first -part of the interior of Haddon Hall shown to visitors, is, as will -be seen by reference to the ground-plan, at the south-east corner of -the building. It consists, at present, of a nave with side aisle and -a chancel, and is entered from the court-yard by an arched doorway -opening into a small ante-chapel, or vestibule, through which the -visitor passes. At the entrance is a _stoup_, or holy-water basin, and -from the ante-chapel a staircase leads up to the turret. The arches -and pillars of the nave are Norman; but the arches have been cut from -their original semicircular to their present arched form, and the -pillars cut and “shaved down,” and their capitals altered in character. -Sufficient of these capitals, however, remains to show what was their -original design. At the west end of the nave is a remarkably fine and -large vestment chest of very thick timber, having carved on its front -two shields of arms. At the opposite (east) end of the nave is a carved -corbel, and, on the floor, is the fine old altar-table of stone bearing -the usual five incised _crosses pattée_, emblematical of the five -wounds of our blessed Saviour. - -Against one of the pillars is a massive circular Norman font, on which -is a curiously constructed cover. This font is engraved on the next -page, but unfortunately the artist has omitted the cover. The chancel -is raised a little above the nave; and on each side is a large high -pew, with open railings in their upper portions, which have been used -for the noble families who have inhabited the place; and the carved -panels, and the traces of gilding and colour they contain, show, along -with the remains of paintings on the walls, how magnificent must have -been this place of worship in its palmy days. - -The chapel consists of a nave with two aisles of unequal width, and a -chancel. The entire length of the chapel is 49 feet, the chancel being -28 feet long, and the nave 21 feet. Each aisle has an arcade of two -pointed arches. - -[Illustration: _Norman Font in the Chapel._] - -The entrance to the chapel is on the north side, near to the west end. -The different parts of the chapel appear to be of about the following -dates, viz.:— - -The south aisle, and centre circular column of its arcade, A.D. 1160. -The five windows of this aisle are each of a single light and pointed. -The capital of the circular column of the arcade has been cut so as to -fit the arches subsequently erected over it. The lower west window, -and the north aisle (except the doorway), and the north arcade, are -about _A.D._ 1310. A window of this aisle formerly existed to the east -of the doorway, but was blocked up when a staircase was made in the -vestibule of the chapel, to give access to a small room. The chancel, -the clerestory of the nave, and the south arcade, except the circular -column, are of about 1425, at which time the glass of the east window -was put in by Richard Vernon, as recorded in an inscription on the -window itself. The bell-turret is supposed to have been erected by -William, son of Richard Vernon, about 1455. The letter W, supposed -to be his initial, is carved on the outside of its wall, towards the -court-yard. The blocking up of the window of the north aisle, and the -construction of the entrance doorway, may be of the same date. William -Vernon married Margaret de Pype; and the Pype arms are on one of the -south windows of the chancel. - -The partial removal of the whitewash of the chapel walls, in 1858, led -to several discoveries of the former arrangements of the building, and -of the coloured decorations of the walls; and, were it desirable, a -complete restoration of the interior to its former state would not be -difficult. - -There were two altars in the chapel—one at the east end, as usual, -and one under the east window of the south aisle. This latter was, no -doubt, a chantry. The stone slabs which formed the tops of the altars -still exist, and are raised, to the extent of their thickness, above -the floor: the east altar-stone is 8 feet by 3 feet, and is 8 inches -thick, the edge being a fillet of 3 inches, and a chamfer; the surface -is so decayed that only one of its original five _crosses pattée_ now -remains. - -The altar-stone of the south aisle is 5 feet 6 inches by 2 feet 6 -inches, the edge showing a fillet and chamfer. The five _crosses -pattée_ on it are still perfect. The piscina in the chancel still -remains, recessed in a fenestella. - -The sill of the south window, near the altar, is low, so as to form a -sedilia bench. In the middle of the sloping sill of the east window -a step has been cut, no doubt for the crucifix to stand on; and on -each side of it is a similar step, probably for candlesticks. On the -east wall, on each side of the window, is a stone bracket, probably to -support an image. - -On the east wall of the south aisle there is a bracket with a grotesque -head, which was probably intended to support a figure. There are signs -of a large bracket having existed on the north side of the altar; and -the base-mould of a small column, which possibly supported its front -edge, may be seen on a block of stone rising above the pavement. - -A very remarkable squint was discovered and reopened in 1859 in the -south-west angle of the chancel, through which a view of the priest -officiating at the chantry altar could be obtained from the rood-loft -above. - -In the wall, opposite to this squint, is a doorway, which gave passage -from the bell-turret to the rood-loft. The sill of this doorway is 13 -feet 9 inches above the chapel floor. The bell itself is now (1871) -in use at the new church at Rowsley. It had been taken down from the -turret many years ago. - -Two fragments of the open-work of the rood-screen may be seen in the -west ends of the chancel pews. They are carved in oak. - -The font, which is round and perfectly plain, is of the Norman period, -and probably of the same date as the early part of the chapel. It is -not in its original position. The stoup for holy water is near the -entrance door of the chapel. - -The windows are not architecturally remarkable, but the glass is -deserving of careful attention. It gives an excellent example of -very good effect produced by very simple means, and excluding very -little light from the interior. Each principal light in the east -window, and each light in the head, has a single figure. The drawing, -both in expression and in the grace of the drapery, is often very -good. Yellow stain is extensively employed, but otherwise colour is -sparingly, though very effectively used. There are no canopies, or -other architectural accessories. The quarries, forming the groundwork -of the windows, come close up to the figures. There are eight patterns -of quarries remaining, besides six birds, each of a different form. -Most of these patterns are good, and the whole of them may be found in -the east window, except one which is in the south-west window of the -chancel. - -The east window has five lights. Much of the glass has been destroyed; -what remains was re-leaded in 1858, and arranged according to the -original design. No new coloured glass was introduced, but some old -quarries were collected from other windows of the chapel, and placed -in the east window to complete the groundwork. In the centre light -the figure of our Saviour on the cross is nearly perfect. In the next -light, on either side, is a figure more or less mutilated, and each has -lost the head. One of them represents the Virgin; the other appears to -be St. John, though, apparently through some mistake of the artist, he -has the emblems of St. John the Baptist. The figures of the two outer -lights are entirely gone. The emblems of two of the evangelists remain. -In the lights of the head are figures of saints, generally well drawn. -Below the principal figures of this window are three shields of arms, -supported by angels, gracefully drawn. These arms are, _argent_, a lion -rampant _gules_, ducally crowned, _or_; _argent_, fretty, _sable_, a -canton of the first; and another shield, the bearing on which has been -lost. At the bottom of the window are the remains of an inscription to -Sir Richard Vernon and Benedict Ludlow his wife, as follows:—_Orate -pro āiābus Ricardi Vernon et Benedicite uxoris eius qui fecerunt anō -d̄ni milesimo_ CCCCXXVII. This Sir Richard Vernon, who was born in -1391, and succeeded his father in 1401, married Benedict, daughter -of Sir John Ludlow of Hodnet, and died in 1451. He was “Treasurer of -Calais, Captain of Rouen, and Speaker of the Parliament of Leicester, -in the fourth year of Henry VI. in 1426.” Above the crucifix are the -royal arms, quarterly, first and fourth France, second and third -England. In the outer lights are a knight kneeling at a table, and -fragments of an ecclesiastic. - -The flat-headed windows on each side of the altar, in the north and -south sides of the chancel, have each three principal lights, and -six lights in the heads, each containing the figure of an apostle, -effectively drawn. - -The centre light of the north window has a figure of the Virgin being -taught to read by St. Anne. To the right of this, as we face the -window, is the figure of St. George slaying the dragon, and in the -other light is the figure of St. Michael trampling on a six-headed -dragon. Beneath, there are three mutilated shields of arms of Vernon, -&c., and in the bottom of the window are the remains of a candlestick -or hour-glass stand. In the south window are the arms of Pype, _azure_, -crucilly of cross-crosslets and two pipes in pale, _or_; and those of -Vernon, _argent_, fretty, _sable_, on the dexter side of an impaled -shield, the impalement on which is lost. Over the arms of Pype is the -fragment of the original inscription, reading “Margareta Pype, vxo.” - -The mural decorations, of which traces have been found, are of various -character and of much interest. The oldest fragments are two running -patterns of good design. One is on the arches of the north arcade, and -of the same date as the stonework on which it appears, viz., about -1310. The other, which seems to be of the same age, is on one of the -jambs of the east window of the south aisle, over the altar. In this -window there are traces of a figure, now almost entirely destroyed. -Over the arches of the nave there are traces of two different designs, -one on each wall. Both are much defaced. On the west wall of the nave -there is a design consisting of a running pattern of rose branches -and leaves, with red flowers of five petals. The stems and leaves are -shaded grey and black. Traces of the same design have been found on the -walls of the south aisle, and on the jambs of its west window. The date -of this rose pattern is probably about 1427, when the glass of the east -window of the chancel was put in. - -There is a pattern of green and dull red on the east wall of the -chancel, and on the south wall is a very similar pattern, which -enclosed four groups of figures, two on each side of the window over -the sedilia bench. There is no border surrounding each group, but -merely the diaper pattern. They are probably of the same date as the -glass in the east window. The figures of these groups are generally -effectively drawn, though with occasional exaggeration and distortion. -They are in distemper on the plaster, and are black, with the exception -of some dresses, which are green. There are scrolls to each group, -corresponding with the number of figures, but without any name. These -groups had been much injured before they were covered with whitewash, -and the injury appears as if partially intentional. The groups form -a series of subjects, and commence with the upper group on the east -side of the window. The subject is the presentation of the Virgin -in the Temple by Joachim and Anna. The three figures remain. Below -this is a group, much injured, apparently Anna teaching the Virgin to -read, whilst Joachim stands by. Two of these groups, for which we are -indebted to the “Reliquary,” are here shown. - -[Illustration: _Wall-paintings in the Chapel._] - -The upper group on the west is a Holy Family. The Virgin holds the -infant Jesus in her arms; St. Joseph stands by; St. John the Baptist -raises his hands and eyes towards the infant Saviour. - -Below this is a group, much injured, with four scrolls, and apparently -four figures. A female figure, probably the Virgin, seems to be -carrying a child, whilst a male figure follows behind. There seem to be -indications of a fourth and small figure. The subject appears to be -the flight into Egypt, with, contrary to custom, the figure of St. John -introduced. - -Traces of colour are found on the fenestella of the piscina, on the -circular columns of the south arcade, and on the brackets near the -altar. - -[Illustration: _Steps to State Apartments._] - -Leaving the chapel, the visitor will cross the court-yard to the -BANQUETING-HALL; but he will notice on his way a flight of stone steps -leading from the court-yard, near the doorway of the ante-chapel, up -to the state apartments, so that the family could attend the chapel -without passing through the hall, and could also, with their guests, be -admitted at other times to their suite of rooms. - -In this first court-yard he will also do well to take especial notice -of the beautiful and intricate designs on the lead-work of the heads of -the spouts—many of which are filled with delicate Gothic tracery—and -the gargoyles, or water-spouts, some of which are grotesquely carved in -figures of curious character, and some of them of uncouth shape. One -or two of these we have engraved on another page. - -Entering the open doorway of the advanced porch, which, with a wide -passage adjoining, forms the way through to the inner, or second -court-yard, the visitor will notice, standing on the stone bench on his -left hand, a fine Roman altar which, many years ago, was dug up in the -grounds. It bears the inscription,— - -[Illustration: _Roman Altar, Haddon Hall._] - - DEO - MARTI - BRACIACÆ - OSITTIVS - CAECILIANS - PRAEFECT - COH I AQVITANO - V S - -which may be rendered, “To the God Mars, Braciaca, Osittius, -Caecilianus, Prefect of the first Cohort of the Aquitani, in -performance of a vow”—the term _Braciacæ_: as applied to Mars being -singular. - -To the left of the passage four arched doorways conduct respectively -to the buttery, the great kitchen, and other domestic offices, and to -a staircase leading to the long suite of chambers on the north side, -and also communicating, by means of a gallery in the Banqueting-Hall, -with all the other apartments of the building. To the right is a -massive and time-worn oak screen, with two open doorways, which -divides the Banqueting-Hall from the passage. Entering by the first of -these openings in the screen, the visitor will not fail to notice a -suspicious-looking little iron bracket with ring attached, high above -his head. This, tradition says, was an instrument of punishment for -enforcing the observance of laws of conviviality. For it is said, if, -in the days of feasting and merriment in the “good old times,” a man -should fail to drink up his quota of liquor, he was fastened up by -the wrist to this ring, and the liquor poured down his sleeve so as -gradually to trickle down him on to the floor; or, if guilty of any -other breach of the law or decorum of the board, he was similarly tied -up, and compelled so to remain during the carousal, and was treated now -and then not only with a stream of cold water poured down his sleeve, -but by other indignities forced upon him. - -[Illustration: _The Banqueting-Hall: with the Minstrels’ Gallery._] - -The BANQUETING-HALL, or GREAT HALL, as it is sometimes called, -measures, within the screen, about 35 feet in length, and about 25 -in width, and it is of the full height of the building, with an open -timber roof. It is entered, as has just been stated, by two open -doorways in the screen which separates it from the passage. The screen -also forms the front of the MINSTRELS’ GALLERY over the passage. The -screen is beautifully panelled, each panel being headed with cinquefoil -cusps, above which is other Gothic tracery of elegant design. At the -opposite end from this screen is the raised daïs for the lord and his -family and honoured guests, where still stands the grand old table on -which so many of the good things of this life have been spread in ages -long since passed away. - -[Illustration: _Old Oak Table in the Banqueting Hall._] - -This table is one of the finest examples of its kind yet remaining -anywhere in existence—it is now worm-eaten and decayed, like those who -once feasted around it; but still it stands, a proud monument of those -ancient times so long gone by. Over the daïs a modern window has been -inserted, and formerly a doorway, to the left of the lord as he sat in -the centre of the large table, opened into what is now the dining-room, -but in those days was the withdrawing-room. - -[Illustration: _The Hand-lock in the Banqueting-Hall._] - -To the right hand, on entering, is the gigantic fire-place with its -huge open chimney; and on the opposite side, at the end next the high -table, a flight of steps leads up to the state apartments; and close -by, through a corner partitioned off by the oak wainscoting, another -door leads to the private dining-room and to the grounds. On the walls -of the Banqueting-Hall are some magnificent stags’ heads and antlers, -which bear evidence not only of extremely fine growth, but of great -age, since they fell to the lord of the chase. There are also several -pieces of old furniture: and on the walls are oil-paintings of Martin -Middleton of Hazelbadge, and of an old and favourite huntsman and -gamekeeper—honoured and respected retainers of the family. - -[Illustration: _Staircase to Minstrels’ Gallery._] - -The galleried passage, of a later date, to the Minstrels’ Gallery, -occupies one side, and the “Minstrels’ Gallery” itself one end, of the -Banqueting-Hall—that portion of the gallery along the side forming a -passage from the drawing-room and state apartments on one side to the -range of rooms on the other. The portion of the gallery over the end -of the hall is considerably wider than the other, and would hold a -goodly company of minstrels, or of guests, to look down on the “lord of -misrule” and other revels below. In one of our engravings we show the -panelled front of the Minstrels’ Gallery, and on the preceding page we -give a vignette of the entrance to the gallery from the drawing room. - -Passing out from the Banqueting-Hall, the visitor should next enter -the DINING-ROOM, which is one of the most charming, and certainly one -of the most interesting, apartments in the whole building. The end -opposite to the entrance doorway is entirely taken up by a Gothic -window of eight lights, filled with glass disposed in an elaborate -geometric pattern. In some of the lights are shields of arms in stained -glass, one of which displays the arms of Vernon with its quarterings -of Avenell, Pype, &c., &c.; another, Vernon only; and another, Vernon -impaled. This room is wainscoted, the upper row of panels throughout -being filled in with exquisitely-carved Gothic tracery and with -heraldic bearings, &c. - -Over the centre of the fire-place are the royal arms of England -(quarterly France and England) with the supporters, a greyhound and a -griffin, and on the one side a shield bearing the three feathers of the -Prince of Wales, with the initials E. P., and on the other the arms -of Vernon with its quarterings, and supported by a lion and a boar. -Below these is the motto, “DREDE GOD AND HONOR THE KYNG,” carved in -Gothic capitals. Near this also is the carved inscription, “Anno Dni -1545. Monseigneir de Vernon,” and, with arms, the initials “G. V.,” -and “M. V.” The remainder of this fine old heraldic frieze contains -a large number of shields bearing the arms of the Vernons and of -the various families allied with them, interspersed with the Vernon -crest, &c. At the end of the room next the fire-place is a small, -but exquisitely beautiful, recessed or oriel window, with seats on -all sides, and forming one of the most delicious little retirements -imaginable—overlooking, as it does, the lawns and terraces, and the -romantic grounds and winding river, of Haddon. This recess is panelled -in the same elaborate heraldic and Gothic manner as the room itself, -and, besides the coats of arms and crests, bears on one of its panels -a grotesque head of a court fool, or jester, traditionally said to -have been intended as a portrait of Will Somers, jester to the “merry -monarch” and to his predecessor; and on two others the heads of Henry -VII. and his Queen, Elizabeth of York. - -The ceiling of the dining-room is divided into compartments by -transverse beams, and has been elaborately painted and decorated. In -the large window will be noticed a fine old wine-cooler of bronze, and -the fire-place and fire-dogs are also very curious and interesting. - -[Illustration: _Oriel Window in the Dining-room._] - -Passing out from the dining-room, the visitor will next ascend -the stone stairs leading up from the Banqueting-Hall to the state -apartments. Arriving at the top of this short staircase he will find -three doorways, that to the left opening into the long gallery, or -ball-room; the one to the right giving access to the drawing-room, the -Earl’s room, &c.; and the third simply opening to a staircase to the -leads, &c. Passing through the door to the right the visitor enters the -DRAWING-ROOM, which is situated over the Dining-room just described. -It is a charming room, hung with grand old tapestry, above which is a -frieze of ornamented mouldings, in pargetting work. This frieze is of -five heights, each being decorated with a separate moulding of raised -festoons, fruits, flowers, &c. - -[Illustration: _Ante-room to the Earl’s Bed room._] - -To the left, on entering, is a beautiful recessed, or bay, window, over -the similar one in the Dining-room; and from this window one of the -most beautiful views of the terrace, the foot-bridge, the river, and -the grounds, is obtained. This window recess is wainscoted in panels, -which have originally been painted and gilt—portions of the colour and -gilding still remaining; its ceiling is in the form of a large star -of eight points, with intersecting segments of circles attaching the -inner angles to each other, and forming a geometric pattern of great -beauty. The ceiling of the room is also richly ornamented. Above and -around the fire-place the wall is wainscoted in panels, in a similar -manner to the recess. In the fire-place is one of the most curious -of existing grates, the alternate upright bars of which terminate in -_fleurs-de-lis_, and a pair of exquisitely beautiful fire-dogs; the -two bosses on each being of open metal-work, of the most chaste and -elaborate design and workmanship. They are of brass; and the bosses, -which are circular, are designed in foliage and flowers. - -[Illustration: _The Ball-room, or Long Gallery._] - -In these beautiful remains Haddon is especially rich; but the pair -in this room, and the two remarkably fine enamelled bosses in the -so-called “Chaplain’s Room,” are the most interesting and elegant. -Opposite to the recessed window, a doorway in the tapestry opens upon -the side gallery of the “Banqueting Hall,” and so gives access to, -and communication with, the apartments on the opposite side of the -quadrangle. - -The opposite end of the Drawing-room from the entrance doorway is -occupied by a large window, of similar size to that in the Dining-room -beneath it, which overlooks the lower court-yard or quadrangle. In this -room are still preserved some pieces of ancient furniture. Near the -further window a doorway opens into what is called - -The EARL’S DRESSING-ROOM, a small but remarkably pretty apartment, hung -with tapestry, and lighted by a recessed window. This room, as shown in -our engraving, immediately communicates with - -The EARL’S BED-CHAMBER, so called in connection with the one just -described, because thus occupied by the Earls of Rutland when residing -at Haddon. This room is hung with tapestry representing hunting scenes, -&c. From this chamber a doorway opens into - -The LADY’S DRESSING-ROOM, also hung with tapestry, and lighted with a -recessed window. From this room a doorway opens out to the top of the -flight of steps already spoken of as giving access to these apartments -from the lower court-yard. By this means access was easily obtained to -the chapel, and the lord and lady could enter or leave these apartments -without passing through the Banqueting Hall. A small padlocked door, -in the tapestry of this room, leads up a narrow flight of steps to the -leads over the chapel and to the open side of the belfry tower, where -the works of the old clock may be seen. - -Returning through the Earl’s Bed-chamber and Dressing-room, from the -fire-grate in which it is said “the celebrated Count Rumford obtained -his plan to prevent chimneys smoking,” and retracing his steps through -the Drawing-room, the visitor passes out to the landing-place of the -staircase leading up from the Banqueting Hall. From this a doorway -leads up to a small rude apartment, with a fire-place, and an old -chest; and also leads to the leads of the roof of the Drawing-room, -Earl’s Bed-room, Long Gallery, &c. - -The LONG GALLERY, or BALL-ROOM, one of the glories of fine old Haddon, -is next entered by a flight of semicircular steps of solid oak, said to -have been cut from the root of a single tree that grew in the park of -Haddon, the trunk and arms of which are also asserted to have furnished -the whole of the timber of the floor of the Long Gallery, or Ball-room, -itself. Thus, if the story be true, the whole of the flooring of this -superb apartment, which is 109½ feet in length, and 18 feet in width, -as well as these massive steps outside the room, were obtained from one -single oak-tree grown on the spot. - -Ascending the STEPS, of which we give an engraving, the visitor will -do well to notice the lock and other details of the door, which are -somewhat curious. This noble apartment extends, as will be seen on -reference to the engraved plan already given, nearly the entire -length of the south side of the upper court-yard—commencing near the -Banqueting Hall, and, running the entire remaining length of the upper -court-yard, is carried out into the winter garden beyond. - -[Illustration: _Steps to the Ball-room._] - -This grand room is wainscoted throughout its entire dimensions with -oak panelling of remarkably good architectural character. The general -design is a series of semicircular arches, alternately large and small, -divided by pilasters with foliated capitals, and surmounted by a frieze -and a turreted and battlemented cornice. The pilasters, divided like -the whole design up to the frieze, are of three heights. The basement -of the wainscoting, about one-eighth of its entire height, is plainly -panelled, and devoid of all ornament. The second height, rising to -more than a third of the whole, is of a much more decorated character. -The pilasters are fluted, and the spaces between them filled in with -geometric designs, the narrower spaces being by far the most elaborate -in their design. The third height is a series of semicircular arches, -alternately wide and narrow, divided by the pilasters, the crown of -the arch of the narrower ones being on a level with the springing of -the larger ones. The whole of the arches, in which pictures formerly -hung, spring from small brackets and semi-pilasters at the sides -of the pilasters, and are elaborately decorated. Over each of the -smaller arches is a shield of the arms of Manners, with a crescent for -difference, and surmounted on the frieze by their crest, a peacock -displayed, also differenced with a crescent, alternating with those -of the Vernon crest, a boar’s head. The pilasters in this height are -carved in scale pattern, and are finished with capitals of foliage -filling up the spandrels of the arches. Above these is the frieze, the -spaces of which are occupied respectively with the crests just named, -alternating with the rose and thistle conjoined on one stem. Above this -is a remarkably fine turreted and battlemented cornice, in which the -loopholes, &c., are cut quite through the whole thickness of the wood. - -The ceiling of this magnificent room is coved—the coving receding for -the cornice. It is covered with elaborate and exquisitely designed -geometric tracery, consisting of squares, lozenges, quatrefoils, &c., -beautifully foliated at their points, and containing shields of arms -and crests, the arms being those of Manners impaling Vernon, and the -crests those of Manners and Vernon alternately. This ceiling was -originally painted and gilt in a very rich manner, remains of the -colouring and gilding being still distinguishable, here and there, -through the whitewash. On the walls still hang one or two pictures, -which perhaps, however, only add to the solitariness of its appearance. - -[Illustration: _Dorothy Vernon’s Door: Interior._] - -On the south side of this noble apartment is a charming central -recessed window of large size, 15 feet by 12 feet—large enough, in -fact, to accommodate a goodly party around the fine old central table, -which still remains—and two smaller recessed, or bay, windows. On -the north side are two windows looking into the upper court-yard; the -east end is entirely taken up by a strongly stone-mullioned window of -twenty-four lights, with a side window on each side. In the recessed -windows are the royal arms of England, and the arms of Vernon, Manners, -Talbot, &c., in stained glass. Our engraving shows about one-half, in -length, of this noble room. - -Opposite to the central recess is a fire-place, which still holds the -original fire-dogs rising from goats’ feet, and decorated with human -heads and heads of goats. In the centre of the large window at the -end will be observed a glass case, containing a cast of the head of -Lady Grace Manners, whose monument is in Bakewell Church. She was the -daughter of Sir Henry Pierrepoint, and wife of Sir George Manners, of -Haddon, the eldest son and heir of Sir John Manners and Dorothy Vernon -his wife. Lady Grace “bore to him (her husband) four sons and five -daughters, and lived with him in holy wedlock thirty years. She caused -him to be buried with his forefathers, and then placed this monument -(at Bakewell) at her own expense, as a perpetual memorial of their -conjugal faith, and she joined the figure of his body with hers, having -vowed their ashes and bones should be laid together.” - -[Illustration: _Dorothy Vernon’s Door: Exterior._] - -From near the upper end of this Long Gallery, or Ball-room, a highly -enriched doorway opens into the Ante-room, or Lord’s Parlour. - -The ANTE-ROOM, now occasionally called the “Lord’s Parlour,” and, two -centuries ago, was designated the “Orange Parlour,” is a small room, -hung with paintings, and having around the upper part of its walls a -cornice embellished with the crests of the Vernon and Manners families. -The interest, however, attached to this apartment rests in the -strongly barred door which opens from it on to a flight of stone steps -leading down to the terrace and winter-garden. This doorway, known -far and wide as DOROTHY VERNON’S DOOR, we have engraved, both as seen -from its exterior side and its interior side, and have also given the -“initial” illustration on page 221. - -It is said, and no doubt with truth, that it was through this doorway -and down these steps that the lovely Dorothy Vernon, one of the -co-heiresses of that grand old family, passed on the night of her -elopement, and that at the top of the opposite flight of steps, shown -in our ground plan, and known as “Dorothy Vernon’s Steps,” she was -received into the arms of her ardent and true lover, John Manners, -who had horses in waiting; and that they flew through the woods and -fields until they gained the high road, and made their way into the -neighbouring county. It was through this doorway then that not only the -lovely Dorothy passed, but with her the fine old mansion itself and all -its broad lands, into the hands of the noble family now owning it. - -Very sweetly has the tradition of the love and elopement of this -noble pair been worked up by imagination in a story, “The Love-steps -of Dorothy Vernon,” by a popular writer in the “Reliquary;” and thus -another modern author very pleasantly embodies it in verse:— - - “The green old turrets, all ivy-thatch, - Above the cedars that girdle them, rise, - The pleasant glow of the sunshine catch, - And outline sharp on the bluest of skies. - - “All is silent within and around; - The ghostly house and the ghostly trees - Sleep in the heat, with never a sound - Of human voices or freshening breeze. - - * * * * * - - “It is a night with never a star, - And the Hall with revelry throbs and gleams; - There grates a hinge—the door is ajar— - And a shaft of light in the darkness streams. - - “A faint sweet face, a glimmering gem, - And then two figures steal into light; - A flash, and darkness has swallowed them— - So sudden is Dorothy Vernon’s flight!” - -Passing through the Ante-room, the visitor next enters the STATE -BED-ROOM, known two hundred years ago, it seems, as the “Blue -Drawing-room.” The walls are hung with Gobelins tapestry, the subjects -being illustrations of Æsop’s Fables; and above this is a frieze, -similar to that in the Ante-room, bearing the crests of Vernon and -Manners. This apartment is lighted by a large bay-window, overlooking -the upper court-yard, and raised a couple of steps above the level -of the floor of the room itself. In this window stands an antique -dressing-table and a grand old looking-glass, which are worthy of the -most careful examination. Over the chimney-piece is a fine example of -pargetting, representing Orpheus, by his musical powers, charming the -brute creation. - -[Illustration: _The State Bed-room._] - -The STATE BED, shown in our engraving, measures 14 feet 6 inches -in height. It is furnished in green silk velvet and white satin, -exquisitely embroidered and enriched with needlework. It is one of the -finest remaining beds in existence, and is presumed to be the work -of Eleanor, daughter of Thomas, and eldest sister and co-heiress of -Edmund, Lord Roos, of Hamlake, and wife of Sir Robert Manners; which -lady died in 1487. According to traditional report, it was removed -many years ago from Haddon to Belvoir Castle, and afterwards restored -to Haddon. The last person who ever slept in it is said to have been -George IV., when Prince Regent; he occupied it during his visit to -Belvoir Castle. - -From the State Bed-room a doorway behind the tapestry opens upon a -short flight of stone steps, leading to what is usually called the -ANCIENT STATE ROOM, or PAGE’S ROOM, and which two centuries ago was -called the “Best Lodging-room.” - -This apartment, like the previous one, is hung with Gobelins tapestry, -the subjects being illustrations of some of the events in the life of -Moses. The thickness of the walls, the small size of the windows, and -the lowness of these rooms, show that they belong to the more ancient -part of the building. - -[Illustration: _The Archers’ Room—for Stringing Bows, &c._] - -From the Page’s Room a short flight of steps leads into a passage, -or small room, which may appropriately be called the ARCHERS’ ROOM -and is shown in our engraving, where the visitor will notice a -remarkable WOODEN FRAME for the stringing of bows and cross-bows—the -only one probably which he will ever see preserved. It forms one of -our illustrations. The passage leads by a few stone steps into a -rude apartment, probably a guard-room, where, behind the rafters, -innumerable bats now build their nests; also into the cross-bow -room, where the bows were hung; and into several other old and -cheerless-looking rooms; also to a spiral stone staircase, which, -springing from the gateway under the PEVEREL TOWER, leads by seventy -steps, some so worn that they have been covered by wooden ones, to the -top of the tower, the ascent of which will amply repay the visitor for -his trouble by the grand and interestingly beautiful view he obtains -of the mansion and the neighbourhood. Of the turret on the PEVEREL, or -EAGLE TOWER, we give an engraving. - -Having descended the tower, the visitor returns through the State -Bed-room into the Ante-room, and is here usually dismissed into the -grounds, through “Dorothy Vernon’s Door.” As we have not, however, -initiated _our_ tourist into the mysteries of all the rooms and -passages of this noble pile of building, we will not dismiss _him_ -in this summary manner, but bring him back into the Banqueting Hall, -whence we will show him the kitchens and suite of rooms on the -north side, and then conduct him to the grounds and to some of the -interesting places in the neighbourhood. - -[Illustration: _The Rack for Stringing the Bows._] - -The KITCHEN and range of domestic offices at Haddon are very large -and extensive, and show, more strikingly than any description, the -marvellous amount of cooking that must have been carried on, and the -more than princely hospitality observed by its owners in its palmy days. - -The four doorways, already spoken of as existing in the wall of the -passage opposite to the screen of the Banqueting-Hall, and beneath the -Minstrels’ Gallery, have all of them pointed arches. The first of these -doorways, on entering from the lower court-yard, or quadrangle, yet -retains its old oaken door. This room was the _buttery_, and the door -still has perfect its buttery-hatch in the middle. This is a small -opening, with a little wicket to close and fit, just large enough to -pass out a trencher of provisions to the servants or retainers, or as -alms to wayfarers. From this room a flight of stone steps conducts to -the vaulted cellars, and it also communicates with the storerooms and -other offices, &c. - -[Illustration: _The Eagle, or Peverel Tower._] - -The second doorway, which is open, leads down a long passage to the -GREAT KITCHEN. At the end, the passage terminates in a strong and -massive half-door, the top of which is formed into a broad shelf. To -this point only were the servants permitted to come, but were forbidden -access to the kitchen itself. The dishes were placed on the door-shelf -by the cooks on the one side, and removed by the servitors on the -other, and by them carried up the passage into the Banqueting-Hall. -The kitchen is of immense size, its ceiling supported by massive -beams and by a central support of solid oak. It contains two enormous -fire-places, stoves for various purposes, and spits, pot-hooks, and -tenter-hooks by the score; enormous chopping-blocks, dressers of all -sorts and sizes, tables of solid oak, six or seven inches in thickness, -and hollowed into circular chopping-troughs—one of which is worn -through by constant use—and every possible appliance for keeping open -house in the most lavish style. Adjoining the kitchen are a number of -rooms, bakehouse, larders, pantries, salting-rooms, &c., all fitted in -the same marvellously massive manner. In one of these should be noticed -an enormous salting-trough, hollowed out of one immense block of wood, -without joint or fastening. This is among the most wonderful relics of -the place, and ought to claim attention from the visitor. - -The third doorway opens into what is conjectured to have been the -wine-cellar—a vaulted room well adapted for the purpose, and close at -hand for the Banqueting Hall. - -The fourth doorway opens at the foot of a flight of stairs leading -up to the apartments on the north side, which, for more than half -its length, contains a second as well as a first floor. These rooms -are many in number, and curiously labyrinthine in construction, and -although not possessing attraction enough to be shown to the general -visitor, are nevertheless among the most interesting in the mansion. -Some of them are hung with tapestry which ranks among the best in the -house: one room especially, where groups of children gathering fruit -are depicted, is peculiarly beautiful. In two of the apartments on this -side are charming little closets, on the tapestry of one of which the -royal arms are depicted. - -[Illustration: _Gallery across Small Yard._] - -One of these tapestried rooms is named in an old list of apartments -of 1666 as “Lady Dorothy’s Chamber,” and a neighbouring apartment -is called “Lady Cranborne’s Chamber.” A third tapestried apartment -was called “Roger Manners’ Room.” All these rooms are on the central -portion of the northern side of the Hall, over the kitchen and -adjoining rooms. The apartment over the buttery was the “Great Nursery.” - -Most of the rooms on this side of the building have evidently been -intended for sleeping apartments; and there is a staircase with -ornamental rails, on which remains of the original gilding still serve -as a relief to the sombre colour of the oak. - -One of the most charming “bits” on this side is a short WOODEN GALLERY, -here engraved, with oak balustrades, which leads across a tiny little -open court from one of the tapestried apartments to another, and on -the walls of which mosses and lichens grow in luxuriance. It is just -the spot, opening from the heated rooms, for a lounge in the pure -air; and no doubt from this gallery Dorothy Vernon, and many another -high-bred dame, has looked up to the stars overhead while passing from -room to room, on a festive night, as well as on many a quiet evening. - -[Illustration: _Room over the Entrance Gateway._] - -Among the apartments not usually shown are also two handsome wainscoted -rooms, with carved ceilings, situated over each other, in the entrance -gateway tower. Above the uppermost of these is a room supposed to have -been a place of confinement, because there are traces of _external_ -bolts and bars. It has two windows, in one of which are two massive -stone seats inserted in the wall. It has also a door leading out to the -leads. - -Most of the points of interest have now been described; but the curious -rambler, who may choose to linger and pry into nooks and corners, will -do well to visit some of the basement rooms—as that on the left-hand -side under the Eagle or Peverel Tower—an arched warder’s room, where -he will note the thickness of the walls (7 feet); the next room -westward, which seems to have been the earlier kitchen and bakehouse; -the room under the State Bed-room, used in later times as a gymnasium -for the family; the Armoury, which is under that portion of the Long -Gallery with the deep projecting recess; and the rooms under the Long -Gallery nearer the Dining-room, where the splay of the windows is -nearly 9 feet, and which seem to have been used as washing-houses. Also -the so-called Aviary, which opens toward the garden, under the Earl’s -Bed-room and adjoining rooms; and of the rooms yet unmentioned on the -west side of the lower courts, suffice it to say, that on the ground -floor, next to the so-called Chaplain’s Room, were two waiting-rooms; -and then the Steward’s Room, next to the chapel entrance; over this -entrance the Steward’s Bed-room, approached by a spiral staircase near -the belfry tower from a closet in which access is gained to the leads; -and after passing the clerestory windows of the chapel, there is an -angle commanding a good view of the lower court. Then on this first -floor are a bed-room, the “Barmaster’s Room;” the real Chaplain’s Room, -in which is now a collection of bones; a small room still used by the -duke for private papers; and another bed-room, which brings us back to -the entrance gateway. - -But enough has been said of the interior of Haddon to satisfy the -wants of the tourist, and, although we could linger for hours over the -various rooms not yet specifically described, and fill several chapters -with their description, we must reluctantly leave them, and pass on -into the grounds, and so make our way to Bakewell, to show the visitor -the last resting-places of the noble families to whom Haddon has -belonged. - -Leaving, then, by a small doorway at the end of a passage leading out -from the Banqueting-Hall, and passing the Dining-room on the right, the -visitor will enter what is called the “Upper Garden.” To his right he -will see below him, on looking over the strongly-buttressed wall—one -of the oldest parts of the building—the “Lower Garden,” roughly -terraced down the hill side, and to his right a gravelled path leads by -the side of the building to the wall of the chapel, where, by a long -flight of sixty-seven steps, it descends to the old foot-bridge—one of -the prettiest objects in the grounds: this we have engraved. - -To his left, the “Upper Garden,” 120 feet square, is a lawn; up its -centre, as well as around it, runs a broad gravel walk, opposite -to which rises a splendid wide flight of stone steps, with stone -balustrades, leading to the TERRACE and WINTER GARDEN. Along the sides -of this garden are beds partitioned off by hedges, or as they may more -appropriately be called, walls of yew and box. - -[Illustration: _The Terrace._] - -The TERRACE, one of the glories of Haddon, extends the full width of -the Upper Garden, the balustraded wall running flush with the end -of the Long Gallery. From this terrace the finest view of the south -front of Haddon is obtained, and it is indeed a view to revel in, and -not to be forgotten. The WINTER GARDEN of the terrace is planted with -yew-trees, many centuries old, whose gnarled and knotted roots may be -seen curiously intertwining and displacing the stone edgings of the -parterres. It is altogether one of the most charming outdoor “bits” -which even the most romantic and vivid imagination can conceive. - -At the north end of the Winter Garden of Haddon Hall, in that -charmingly shady corner formed by the wall of the Long Gallery on the -one side, the outer wall of the garden on the opposite, and overhung -with a grand melancholy-looking yew-tree, which casts a sombre and -even gloomy shadow across it, is that most attractive feature of the -mansion, “Dorothy Vernon’s Door,” previously spoken of as opening out -of the Ante-room. - -[Illustration: _The Hall from the Terrace._] - -From the interior, by the way of Dorothy Vernon’s Door, a short flight -of stone steps, with balustrated sides, leads down to the Winter -Garden, on the opposite side of which, nearly opposite to this doorway, -a long flight of stone steps leads up to another, and considerably -higher terrace, called DOROTHY VERNON’S WALK—a broad pathway, or -promenade, passing between an avenue of lofty lime and sycamore -trees—and one of the most secluded and romantic “lovers’ walks” in the -neighbourhood. - -The old BOWLING GREEN, near the summit of the hill above Haddon, -occupied an acre of ground, and was approached by an avenue of trees. -It was enclosed by a thick hedge of yew, with a flight of stone steps -for an entrance. On one side was a lodge, or summer-house, over one of -the doorways of which are initials and the date of 1696. The “Green” -is now converted into a garden. The old kitchen-garden, years ago taken -away, was situated near the foot-bridge. - -There is also a plot of ground, levelled, and in form a parallelogram, -which is known as the “Archery Ground.” - -Before leaving Haddon, the visitor should step inside the building -now used as a stable, in which he will find some features worthy of -observation. In the cottage inhabited by the kindly and respected -custodian of Haddon, is some fine carved furniture, and in the garden -in front, the yew trees, cut into the form of a peacock and a boar’s -head—the crests of Manners and of Vernon—form pleasing objects, and -are sure to attract the attention of the visitor. - - * * * * * - -MANY other interesting particulars regarding this grand old mansion -might be given, but we now proceed to speak of the family of its -present noble owner, the Duke of Rutland, in the same way as we have -already done of its former possessors, the Avenells and Vernons. - -The noble family of Manners, like that of Vernon, is of considerable -antiquity; and, although the records of its early members do not extend -so far back as those of the Vernons, its history is more illustrious, -and its dignities are more exalted. The most ancient of the ancestors -of the present Duke of Rutland, of whom there is direct evidence, was -Sir Robert Manners, Lord of the Manor of Ethale, in Northumberland, -from whom descended another Sir Robert, who married Philippa, daughter -of St. Bartholomew de Mont Bouchier, by whom he had issue, a son, -also named Robert, who married Hawise, daughter of Robert, Baron de -Muschamp, in the reign of Henry I. Their great-grandson, another Sir -Robert Manners, married Agnes, daughter of Sir David Coupland. Their -son, Sir Robert, had issue by his wife, Joan de Heton, four sons; three -of whom dying without issue, the second son, William Manners, inherited -the estates. He married Ellen, or Janetta, daughter of David Baxter, of -Derby, by whom he had a son, Sir Robert Manners. - -This Sir Robert was returned in the seventeenth year of Edward III., -as one of the principal persons in the county of Northumberland, and -was entitled to bear arms by descent. In the first year of Edward’s -reign, being governor of Norham Castle, he distinguished himself by -his successful defence of that stronghold against the Scots, who -“despising King Edward’s youth, on the very night of that day on -which King Edward was crowned, intended to take Norham Castle by -surprise; and so well managed their design, that about sixteen of them -had already mounted the walls. But the captain, Sir Robert Manners, -being warned of the matter beforehand, by one of his garrison, who -was a Scotsman, had so well prepared to receive them, that of those -who had mounted he took five or six, and put the rest to the sword, -their companions below, upon this disappointment, retiring.” In the -next year he was constituted one of the “conservators of the truce -made with the Scots for all hostilities to cease.” Soon afterwards he -was made Sheriff of the county of Selkirk, and appointed to keep and -defend the forts of Selkirk, and Ettrick, &c. In the fourteenth of -the same reign he represented Northumberland in Parliament, and again -subdued Scotch incursions. Soon afterwards he obtained a licence from -the king “to strengthen and embattle his dwelling-house at Ethale, -in Northumberland, with a wall made of stone and lime, and to hold -the same to himself and his heirs for ever.” The next year he was -constituted one of the Commissioners to treat with David Bruce and his -adherents for a peace, and subsequently was made Lord of the Marches. -At the battle of Neville’s Cross, in 1346, under Queen Philippa, in -which the Scottish king was taken prisoner, Sir Robert displayed -great valour, and was entrusted to keep charge of the prisoners, and -deliver them to the Constable at the Tower of London. He died in 1355, -leaving his son and heir, John de Manners (by his wife Aliva, or Alice, -daughter of Henry Strather), only one year and three weeks old. - -This John Manners received the honour of knighthood, and married Alice, -widow of William de Whitchester; and, dying in 1402, was succeeded by -his son, Sir John Manners, who was Sheriff of Northumberland, and, with -his son John, was accused of the murder of William Heron and Robert -Atkinson or Akyman; they were prosecuted by Sir Robert de Umphreville, -and Isabel, widow of William Heron, and were ordered to “cause 500 -masses to be sung for the health of the soul of the same William -Heron within one year then next ensuing, and pay unto Sir Robert de -Umphreville, and Isabel, to the use of the said Isabel and her children -by Heron, 200 marks.” He was succeeded by his son Robert, who married -Joan, daughter of Sir Robert Ogle, and had issue by her, with others, a -son, Robert, by whom he was succeeded. This Sir Robert Manners married -Eleanor, daughter of Thomas, Lord Roos (by Philippa his wife, daughter -of John, Lord Tiptoft, Earl of Worcester), and sister and co-heiress of -Edmund Lord Roos, “whereby he greatly increased his estate, and among -other possessions, had the ancient seat of Belvoir Castle, built by -Robert de Todenei, a noble Norman, on a stately ascent, overlooking the -beautiful valley adjacent (thence by him called _Belvoir_, from the -fair view of the country thereabouts), and it became the chief seat of -that great barony, bestowed on him by William the Conqueror; which seat -and barony, in the reign of Henry III., devolved upon Robert de Roos, -a great baron, by marriage with Isabel, daughter and heir of William -de Albini, the fourth of that name, descended from the said Robert de -Todenei; and from the Lord Roos it came to Sir Robert Manners by his -marriage,” as did also many other estates in other counties. The issue -of this marriage was three daughters, who each married into the family -of Fairfax, and two sons. The eldest of these sons was Sir George -Manners, who, on the death of his mother, became Lord Roos, and was -also lineal heir to the baronies of Riveaulx, Trusbut, and Belvoir. He -married Anne, only daughter and heiress of Sir Thomas St. Leger, by his -wife Anne, daughter of Richard, Duke of York, and sister to King Edward -IV., and widow of John Holland, Duke of Exeter. By this lady, who -brought royal blood into the family, Sir George had a numerous family, -the eldest of whom succeeded him. - -That was Sir Thomas Manners, who, on the death of his father, became -thirteenth Lord Roos of Hamlake, and Baron Trusbut, Riveaulx, and -Belvoir. He was with Henry VIII. and his Queen at the celebrated -interview between that monarch and the King of France at Guisnes, and -in the same reign was made Warden of the East Marches, and had many -other honours granted him. In the seventeenth year of the same monarch -he was created Earl of Rutland—“a title which none but the royal -family had ever borne, and, by reason of his descent from the sister -of King Edward IV., had an augmentation to his ancient arms,” _or_, -two bars _azure_, and a chief, _gules_: which chief was augmented -thus:—quarterly _azure_ and _gules_:—in the first and fourth two -_fleurs-de-lis_, and in the second and third a lion _passant guardant_, -all _or_. He was also installed a Knight of the Garter. A few years -later this nobleman was present at the second interview between Henry -VIII. and Francis I.: he was also present at the marriage of his -sovereign with the ill-fated Anne Boleyn; and, later on, attended Anne -of Cleves to England, and was made her chamberlain. His lordship, who, -besides the honours we have briefly indicated, took part in most of -the events of this stirring reign and held numerous important offices, -married twice, first, Elizabeth, daughter of Sir Robert Lovel; and -second, Eleanor, daughter of Sir William Paston, by the latter of whom -only he had issue. To the eldest and second of that issue we now refer. - -The eldest son, Henry Manners, succeeded his father, in 1543, as second -Earl of Rutland. He was married twice: first to Margaret, daughter of -the fourth Earl of Westmoreland, by whom he had issue; and, second, to -Bridget, daughter of Lord Hussey, by whom he had no children. He was -succeeded by his eldest son, Edward Manners, as third Earl of Rutland, -who, dying without male issue, was succeeded by his brother, John -Manners (the second son of the second Earl), as fourth Earl of Rutland. -This nobleman married Elizabeth, daughter of Francis Charlton of -Apsley, by whom he had issue, with others, three sons—Roger Manners, -Sir Francis Manners, and Sir George Manners—who successively became -fifth, six, and seventh Earls of Rutland. All these dying without -surviving male issue, the title passed to the descendants of the second -son of the first Earl. - -Sir John Manners, second son of the first Earl of Rutland, and who was -consequently great grandson of the sister of King Edward IV., is the -one member of this illustrious family with whom Haddon is especially -connected. This John Manners, before he was knighted, became attached -to Dorothy Vernon, the youngest daughter and co-heiress of Sir George -Vernon of Haddon Hall, known far and wide as “the King of the Peak.” -Disguised, as we have already related, as a forester or woodman, John -Manners for some time lived in the woods about Haddon, in the hope of -obtaining occasional glimpses of, and stolen interviews with, Dorothy -Vernon; and at length so wooed that he won her, and carried her off on -horseback into his own county of Leicester, and there married her. The -story of this romantic elopement is one of the pleasantest episodes -in the history of Haddon, and will have again to be alluded to later -on. By that marriage the grand old mansion of Haddon Hall, and the -Derbyshire property of the “King of the Peak,” passed into the family -of Manners, and helped to swell its already large rent-roll of estates. - -This John Manners, who was knighted in 1603, had issue by his wife, -Dorothy Vernon, three sons: Sir George Manners who succeeded him; John -Manners, who died at the age of fourteen years; Sir Roger Manners, of -Whitwell; and Grace Manners, who married Sir Francis Fortescue, of -Salden. He died June 4th, 1611; his wife died in 1584. - -Sir George Manners, their son, married Grace, daughter of Sir Henry -Pierrepoint, and sister to the Earl of Kingston, by whom he had issue, -with others, John Manners, his eldest son, who not only succeeded him, -but also succeeded his own cousin George, seventh Earl of Rutland, -in his title and estates, and thus became eighth Earl of Rutland. He -married Frances, daughter of Edward, Lord Montague of Boughton, by whom -he had issue four sons and seven daughters. - -He was Sheriff of Derbyshire in the ninth and eleventh years of Charles -I., and also represented that county in Parliament. His lordship was -attached to the Parliamentary interest during the Civil Wars, and was -one of the twenty-two peers who remained at Westminster when the king -summoned both houses to attend him at Oxford. As a consequence, his -castle of Belvoir was seized by the Royalists, and was held by them -and Sir Gervase Lucas, and here the king frequently resided; it was -finally surrendered to the Parliamentarians in January, 1645-6. In 1649 -the castle was demolished, by consent of the earl, who soon afterwards -set about rebuilding it, which he completed in 1668. During this time -the earl lived principally at Haddon Hall, where he died in 1679. Here -he lived in a style of almost princely magnificence, maintaining a -large number of servants and retainers, and dispensing, especially at -Christmas time, his hospitality with a lavish hand. - -About this time, from 1660 to 1670, although the family only -occasionally resided here, there were generally killed and consumed -every year at Haddon between thirty and forty beeves, from four to five -hundred sheep, and a number of swine, so that there was no lack of the -good things of this world for visitors to this hospitable place. - -This nobleman was succeeded by his third and only surviving son, John -Manners, as ninth Earl of Rutland. This nobleman was born in 1638, and, -in 1679, was created a peer in his own right by the title of Baron -Manners of Haddon; and in September of the same year, his father dying, -he became Earl of Rutland. When twenty years of age he had married the -Lady Anne Pierrepoint, daughter of the Marquis of Dorchester, from whom -he was afterwards divorced; and married, secondly, Lady Diana Bruce, -widow of Sir Seymour Shirley, and daughter of the Earl of Aylesbury, -who died in child-bed. His lordship married, thirdly, Catherine, -daughter of Baptist Noel, Viscount Campden, by whom only he had -surviving issue. He lived a country life, and “kept up his old mansion -at a bountiful old rate,” and in a style of even greater magnificence -and open-handedness than his father. It is said that at Haddon alone -he kept seven score of servants, and that every day saw his grand old -banqueting-hall filled to overflowing with retainers and guests. In -1703 the Earl was raised to the highest dignity in the realm, by the -titles of Marquis of Granby and Duke of Rutland. He died in January, -1710-11, aged seventy-three, and was succeeded by his only surviving -son, John Manners. - -John, second Duke of Rutland, when scarcely seventeen years of age, -was married to Katherine, second daughter of Lord William Russell, -who was beheaded in 1683. He then bore the title of Lord Roos; and -the wedding festivities seem, judging from some curious letters still -extant concerning them, to have been of the most lavishly extravagant -character. This lady who was sister to the Duchess of Devonshire and to -the Duke of Bedford, gave birth to five sons and four daughters, and -died in child-bed, in 1711. The Duke married, secondly, Lucy, daughter -of Lord Sherard, and sister of the Earl of Harborough, by whom also he -had issue, six sons and two daughters: his grace died in 1721, and was -succeeded, as third Duke of Rutland, by his eldest son, John Manners. -This nobleman, who was born in 1696, married, in 1717, Bridget, only -daughter and heiress of Lord Lexington (an alliance that gave him a -large accession of estates), by whom he had issue thirteen children, -nearly all of whom died young. - -He was the last of the family who made Haddon Hall a residence. - -The estates of Lord Lexington having been settled upon the younger -branch of the family, the second and surviving sons, successively, -took, by Act of Parliament, the additional surname of Sutton, and thus -founded the family of Manners-Sutton. - -The Duke, who was familiarly known as “the old man of the hill,” dying -in 1779, was succeeded by his grandson, Charles Manners, son of the -celebrated Marquis of Granby, Commander-in-chief of the British forces -in Germany, and Master of the Ordnance, who died during his father’s -lifetime. Charles, fourth Duke of Rutland, married Mary Isabella, -daughter of Charles Noel, Duke of Beaufort, by whom he had issue four -sons—viz., John Henry, who succeeded him, Charles Henry Somerset, -Robert William, and William Robert Albini; and two daughters—viz., -the Lady Elizabeth Isabella, married to Richard Norman, Esq., and -Lady Catherine Mary, married to Lord Forester. His grace died while -holding office as Lord-Lieutenant of Ireland, and was succeeded by his -eldest son—John Henry Manners, as fifth Duke of Rutland, who married -Elizabeth, daughter of the Earl of Carlisle, and by her had issue, -among others, his grace the present Duke of Rutland (third son, the two -elder ones having died before their father), and Lord John Manners, -M.P. His grace died in 1857, aged seventy-nine. - -The present peer, Charles Cecil Manners, sixth Duke of Rutland, Marquis -of Granby, Earl of Rutland, and Baron Manners of Haddon, &c., &c., was -born in 1815, and has held many important appointments. His grace is -not married: the heir to the title and estates being his brother, Lord -John Robert Manners (Marquis of Granby, by courtesy), M.P. for North -Leicestershire, who is also known for the official posts he has held in -the government of this country. - -[Illustration] - -The arms of the Duke of Rutland are, _or_, two bars, _azure_; augmented -by a chief, quarterly, first and fourth _azure_, two _fleurs-de-lis_, -_or_ (France), second and third _gules_, a lion _passant-guardant_, -_or_ (England). Crest, on a _chapeau_, _gules_, turned up, _ermine_, a -peacock in pride, proper. Supporters, two unicorns, _argent_, horns, -manes, tufts, and hoofs, _or_. Motto, “Pour y parvenir.” - -The meadows around Haddon—with the river Wye twisting and turning -about in all imaginable forms—are very delightful, and some of the -pleasantest strolls conceivable may be taken along them, both up and -down the stream, which is full of fine trout, and is, therefore, a -source of endless delight to the angler. - -Having thus given our readers as full an account as would appear -necessary both of the noble families to whom Haddon has belonged, -and of the Hall itself, and told them as much of its history as is -requisite for our purpose, we take leave of this interesting pile, and -proceed to speak of one or two matters connected with its immediate -neighbourhood, before passing on to the fine old church at Bakewell, -where lie interred so many of the families of Vernon and Manners. - -Haddon has been a prolific theme for writers, and an endless source of -inspiration for poets and artists, and long will it continue to be so, -for no “olden” place can be more picturesque or more romantic. It is -said that Mrs. Radcliffe was so struck with it, that she laid the scene -of her “Mysteries of Udolpho” here; and Allan Cunningham, the Countess -de Carabrella, and numberless other writers, have made it a theme for -some of their pleasantest productions; William Bennett took it and -its hospitable owner, Sir George Vernon, as the subject of one of his -most successful novels, “The King of the Peak;” while D. Cox, Nash, -Cattermole, Harding, Rayner, Morrison, and a host of other artists, -have added to their reputations by painting some of its more attractive -features. - -[Illustration: _The Foot-Bridge._] - -As may naturally be expected, in a neighbourhood so rich in interest -as that of Haddon, some singular discoveries have at one time or other -been made. Among these the Roman altar, described on a preceding page, -is perhaps the most important. - -The opening of barrows in the neighbourhood has brought to light -many interesting remains of the ancient British period, and also of -Romano-British times. These consist of interments in which have been -found cinerary urns, drinking-cups, bone mesh-rules, flint implements, -bronze celts, and other articles. - -Some fine antlers, and parts of antlers, of the red deer, one of which, -with four points at the top, measured more than three feet along its -outer curve, and was six-and-a-half inches in medium circumference, -have also been found. But these are not the only remains of extinct -animals found in the neighbourhood, for those of the wild dog, the wild -hog, the horse, the deer, the roebuck, and the ox—both the _Bos urus_ -and the _Bos longifrons_—all of which once ran wild in Derbyshire, -have been found, in the course of deep draining near the Hall, and -preserved under the careful direction of Mr. Nesfield. - -[Illustration: _Ring found at Haddon Hall._] - -Perhaps the most elegant relic yet discovered is the ring shown -in our engraving, which is in possession of his Grace the Duke of -Rutland. It was found a few years ago, not far from the “Bowling -Green,” and is evidently of the fifteenth century, and is of extremely -fine workmanship and elegant design. The hoop is wreathed, and -has originally been enamelled, and bears between the foliage the -inscription, in old English letters, “de boen cuer,” which is one -of frequent occurrence as a posy upon mediæval rings, probably in -this case, meaning _de bon cœur_, and showing the hearty affection -of the giver to the receiver. The little figure engraved on the -besel is St. John the Baptist, with the Lamb enfolded in his mantle, -and has most likely also been enamelled. It is probably a kind of -charm-ring—_i.e._, a ring possessing physical or phylacteric qualities -against epilepsy, the _mal de St. Jean_. It is of the purest gold, and -weighs ninety-seven grains. - -[Illustration: _Washing-Tally found at Haddon Hall._] - -Another interesting “find” was the Washing-Tally already referred -to, which is of the time of Charles I, and of extreme rarity. Of -this tally, as intimately connected with the inner and home life of -Haddon, at the period of the height of its hospitality and glory, -we give the accompanying accurate engraving, which is drawn of a -somewhat reduced size, and for which, as for the ring, and other -engravings, our readers are indebted to the _Reliquary Archæological -Journal_, edited by Llewellynn Jewitt, F.S.A. This very interesting -relic is five-and-a-half inches in length and four-and-a-half inches -in depth. It is formed of a piece of beech-wood, a quarter of an -inch in thickness, covered with linen on the back and sides. Its -construction is precisely that of a “horn-book.” In front, the names -of the different articles of clothing are printed from a copper plate -and protected by a sheet of horn. Around the edge, a narrow slip of -thin brass, fastened down with highly ornamented nails, attaches the -horn, the paper, and the linen, to the wood. The “tally” is divided -into fifteen squares, in each of which is a dial numbered from 0 to 12, -and above each square is the name of the article of clothing intended -to be taken into account. These are “Ruffes,” “Bandes,” “Cuffes,” -“Handkercher,” “Capps,” “Shirtes,” “Half-Shirtes,” “Boote-hose,” -“Topps,” “Sockes,” “Sheetes,” “Pillowberes,” “Tableclothes,” -“Napkins,” and “Towells.” On each of the dials is a circular brass -indicator, fastened by a little pin in its centre, so as to be turned -round at pleasure. Each indicator is pierced on one side, close to the -edge, with a round hole through which one number only on the dial is -visible at a time, and opposite to this hole is a raised point by which -the indicator can be turned as required. - -It may here be well to note, that although Haddon Hall is no longer -used as a residence by the Duke of Rutland, he has within three or four -miles of it a delightful shooting-box, Stanton Woodhouse, pleasantly -situated and charming in every respect, where he and others of his -family occasionally sojourn. This and his other shooting-lodge, -Longshawe, some distance across the moors of the same county, are two -charming retreats for the sportsman. It may be mentioned, too, that at -Rowsley, close at hand, is the admirably executed effigy of Lady John -Manners and her infant, by W. C. Marshall, R.A. - -Passing on from Haddon to Bakewell, the tourist will not fail to notice -the Dove-cote on a mound near the road-side, and from this road-side he -will obtain one of the best and most charming views of the Hall to be -gained from any point. - -BAKEWELL CHURCH, the burial-place of some of the members of the Vernon -and Manners families, to whom Haddon Hall successively belonged, is -nearly two miles distant from Haddon, and may be seen on looking up -the valley of the Wye. Bakewell itself is a pleasant and remarkably -clean little market-town, built on the banks of the Wye; there are -several good public buildings in the town itself, and many substantial -residences in its neighbourhood. It is, however, to the church only -that we now desire to call attention in a short description. - -[Illustration: _Bakewell Church._] - -It is a cruciform building, of about 150 feet in length from west to -east, and about 105 feet in width across from wall to wall of the north -and south transepts, with a central tower and spire. It contains some -extremely fine Norman and Early-English features, and is lofty and -remarkably well proportioned. In the centre rises a noble tower, the -lower part of which is square, and the upper octagonal, with the angles -boldly chamfered, and this is surmounted by a lofty spire. There can -be no doubt, from remains which have been found, that a church had -existed on this spot from very early pre-Norman times. In Domesday -survey, it is stated there were two priests for the church of Bakewell. -It was afterwards made a collegiate church. It was granted by William -the Conqueror to William Peverel, his natural son, but was, with the -other immense possessions of that family, forfeited by attainder by -one of his descendants in 1154; it remained in the possession of the -crown till it was given by Richard I., on his accession to the throne -in 1189, to his brother John, Earl of Morteigne, afterwards King John. -To him is traditionally ascribed the rebuilding of the nave (with the -exception of the west end, which he is said to have left standing), -and its endowment; but it is more probable that it was built and -endowed by a Peverel, who gave part of the Bakewell tithes to Lenton -Priory. In 1192, Earl John gave the church, with all its prebends and -other appurtenances, to the present cathedral of Lichfield. In 1365, a -chantry was founded in the church by Sir Godfrey Foljambe and Avena -his wife, whose beautiful little monument will be seen on one of the -piers of the nave. The nave, which was erected probably about 1110, -is separated from the side-aisles by semicircular arches, rising -from piers of solid masonry instead of pillars. At the west end is -a fine Norman doorway ornamented with beak-head mouldings and other -characteristic features. - -The church was extensively repaired and restored in 1841, when numerous -very interesting remains were brought to light. These included an -extensive series of incised sepulchral slabs, of very early date, -bearing crosses of various forms, and many interesting devices; several -ancient crosses used as headstones; a considerable and extremely -beautiful assemblage of fragments of encaustic paving tiles; and -several fragments of coped tombs, and of crosses with the interlaced -ornament so characteristic of the Saxon period, as well as many -stone coffins, and sculptured fragments of mouldings, capitals, &c., -belonging to the more ancient edifice. - -Of these curious remains the greater part were preserved in the porch -of the church, and consist of considerably more than fifty incised -slabs—some of which are perfect, and others in fragments—and perhaps -a score or two of other stones. It is also stated, and is much to be -regretted, that at least four times the number of sculptured stones -preserved were rebuilt into the walls during the alterations, so that, -including a number taken away and now preserved at Lomberdale, there -must have been from three to four hundred found. In the same porch, a -selection of the ornamented paving tiles is also preserved; among the -patterns are many of extreme beauty and elegance. - -The font is also deserving of especial notice. It is octagonal, each of -its sides bearing a figure beneath a crocketed canopy. A fragment of -another ancient font will be seen in the porch. - -The part of Bakewell Church, however, with which we have now -particularly to do is the VERNON CHAPEL, in which, divided from the -south transept by a beautiful open oak screen, lie buried the later -Vernons and the earlier members of the Manners family connected with -Haddon. This chapel was, it appears, erected “late in the Decorated -period, about 1360, upon the walls of the former chapel. The -Early-English half-pillars at each extremity of the arches had been -retained, and were very beautiful examples, well worthy of imitation. -The hollows of the mouldings, up to a certain height, being filled -with bold roses, capitals in a different style were afterwards added -to suit the decorated arches. The central pillars, with their central -clustered shafts, are of singularly elegant design; the tracery of the -windows partakes of the flamboyant character. The upper part of the -buttresses was also altered to correspond with the new work.” It will -bear comparison with any structure of the kind in England, and has been -rebuilt in good taste. - -In the centre of the Vernon Chapel stands a fine altar-tomb, bearing -the recumbent effigies of Sir George Vernon, the “King of the Peak,” -and his two wives, Margaret Taylebois and Maude Langford. This tomb is -an extremely beautiful and characteristic example of the elaborately -decorated monuments of the period to which it belongs. Along its sides, -under a series of canopied arches, are figures bearing shields of the -arms of the Vernons and their alliances and those of the families of -his two wives. Sir George is habited in plate armour and surcoat, -and wears a straight long beard and straight hair. He has a double -chain and a sword. The inscription on this interesting tomb is as -follows:—“Here lyeth S^r George Vernon, Knight, deceased ye —— daye -of —— an^o 1561, and Dame Margaret his wyffe, daughter of Sir Gylbert -Tayleboys, deceased ye —— daye of —— 156—; and also dame Mawde -his wyffe, dawght^r to S^r Ralphe Langford, deceased ye —— daye of -—— anno 156— whose solles God pdon.” The inscription, it will be -seen, has never been finished, the blanks for the dates not having been -filled up. The surcoat worn by the knight is elaborately emblazoned -with his own arms with all its quarterings; and, taken altogether, this -is a remarkably fine and interesting monument. - -At the south end of the chapel stands, to visitors to Haddon, perhaps -the most interesting of its monuments. It is that of Dorothy Vernon, -about whose elopement we have already discoursed, and her husband, Sir -John Manners, with their children. This lady, it will be recollected, -was one of the daughters and co-heiresses of Sir George Vernon, whose -monument we have just been describing, and his first wife Margaret -Taylebois, and by her marriage with Sir John Manners, she conveyed -Haddon Hall and the other Derbyshire estates of the Vernons to the -family of Manners, to whom they still belong. This monument we, for the -first time, engrave. It is a large and very imposing-looking erection. -At the top, in the centre, is a large shield, bearing the shield of -Manners, with its sixteen quarterings, and on either side is an obelisk -ornament, one of which bears the arms of Manners and the other of -Vernon. Beneath these is a bold cornice and ornamental frieze, on which -again occur three shields with the arms, respectively, in the centre -Manners impaling Vernon; and on one side Avenell, and on the other -Roos. - -[Illustration: _Monument of Sir John Manners and his wife, Dorothy -Vernon._] - -This cornet and frieze surmount a semicircular arch, beneath which -are the kneeling figures, facing each other, of Sir John Manners, in -plate armour, and his wife, Dorothy Vernon, in close-fitting dress, -with cap, and frill or ruff around the neck. Between them there is -a pedestal, bearing the following incription:—“Here lyeth S^r John -Manners, of Haddon, Knight, second sonne of Thoas, Erle of Rutland, who -dyed the 4 of June, 1611, and Dorothie his wife, one of the daughters -and heires to S^r George Vernon, of Haddon, Knight, who deceased the 24 -day of June, in the 26 yere of the raigne of Queen Elizabeth, 1584.” -Above the pedestal is a large shield, with quarterings of the armorial -bearings of the families of Manners and Vernon and their alliances; -the shields bearing the sixteen quarterings of Manners, differenced -with a crescent, impaled with the twelve quarterings of Vernon. On the -spandrels are also shields of arms, the one bearing Manners quartering -Roos and two others; and the other, Vernon quartering Avenel and two -others. The lower part of the monument contains four figures of the -children of Sir John and his wife Dorothy, and two shields, the one -bearing the arms of Manners, and the other those of Vernon. - -At the opposite or north end of the chapel is a much larger and more -pretentious monument, that of Sir George Manners, son and heir of Sir -John Manners and Dorothy Vernon, and of his wife, Grace Pierrepoint. -At the top is a large shield bearing the arms of Manners with its -sixteen quarterings, and on each side is an obelisk. Beneath these is -a massive and bold cornice, supported on Corinthian pillars, forming a -recess in which is a semicircular arch, elaborately carved, and over -it the inscription, “The day of a man’s death is better than the day -of his birth.” Under this arch and cornice are the effigies of Sir -George Manners and his wife, kneeling, and facing each other, while -between them is a double desk, or lectern, on the front of which are -the words—“Thy prayers and thine alms are gone up before thee,” and -a shield bearing the arms of Manners impaling Pierrepoint. Behind the -figures, on a tablet, is a Latin inscription, which has been thus -translated:—“Sir George Manners of Haddon, Knt., here waits the -resurrection of the just in Christ. He married Grace, second daughter -of Sir Henry Pierrepoint, Knt., who afterwards bore to him four sons -and five daughters, and lived with him in holy wedlock thirty years. -She caused him to be buried with his forefathers, and then placed this -monument, at her own expense, as a perpetual memorial of their conjugal -faith, and she joined the figure of his body with hers, having vowed -their ashes and bones should be laid together. He died 23rd April, -1623, aged 54. She died ——.” Sir George is represented in armour, -and his lady is habited in close dress, with ruff, hood or coif, and -long veil. Beneath the figures of the knight and his lady, the monument -is divided into two heights, each of which is formed into an arcade -holding the effigies of their children. The upper arcade consists -of four semicircular arches, with shields of armorial bearings in -the spandrels. Within the first of these arches is the effigy of the -eldest son—a “chrisom child”—who died in infancy and is, as usual, -represented bound up, mummy fashion, in swaddling-clothes; in the -second, the kneeling effigy, in armour, of John Manners, who ultimately -succeeded to the title of eighth Earl of Rutland; and in the third -and fourth, those of two of the daughters. In the lower arcade, which -is formed of five archways, the first two being semicircular and the -remaining three pointed, are respectively the kneeling effigies of -Henry Manners, who died at the age of fourteen, and is habited as a -youth; Roger Manners, in armour; and three daughters. In the spandrels -of the arches, as in the upper arcade, are a series of shields with -armorial bearings. Over the nine arches are the nine inscriptions as -follows:—Over the “chrisom child,” “Mine age is nothing in respect -of thee;” over the son and heir, “One generation passeth and another -cometh;” over the youth, Henry Manners, “My days were but a span long;” -over the fourth son, Roger, “By the grace of God I am what I am;” over -the daughters, beginning with the eldest, “A virtuous woman is a crown -to her husband,” “The wise woman buildeth her house,” “A gracious woman -retaineth honour,” “A prudent wife is from the Lord,” and “She that -feareth the Lord shall be praised.” On the pedestal by Sir George, -“Christ is to me both in death and life an advantage,” and on the -opposite one, by his wife, “I shall go to him, he shall not return to -me.” The arms on the shields are those of Manners, differenced with -a crescent; Pierrepoint; Manners impaling Montague; Sutton impaling -Manners; Howard impaling Manners; and the other alliances also impaled. - -On the wall is a memorial to John Manners, son of Dorothy Vernon and -her husband, Sir John Manners, with the inscription—“Heare lieth -buried John Manners, gentleman, third son of S^r John Manners, Knight, -who died the xvi day of July, in the yeere of our Lord God 1590, being -of the age of 14 yeers.” - -The most ancient, and certainly one of the most interesting, monuments -in the church, is that of Sir Thomas de Wendesley, or Wensley, of -Wensley, who was killed at the battle of Shrewsbury in 1403. It is an -altar-tomb, with the recumbent effigy of the knight in plate armour, -wearing the conical helmet or bascinet, and camail or tippet of chain -mail, with gussets of the same at the arm-pits. His girdle, which is -exceedingly rich, encircles his hips; the sword is lost, but the dagger -remains. His surcoat is emblazoned with his arms, and he wears the -collar of SS. On the front of the helmet is inscribed IHO NAZAREN. - -In the chancel is an altar-tomb to John Vernon, 1477, the inscription -on which runs as follows:—“Hic jacet Johis Vernon filius et heres -Henrici Vernon qui obiit xii die mensis Augusti Anno Dni Mo cccclxxvii -cuj anime piciet̄ dē;” and in the Vernon Chapel is an incised slab, -with the arms of Eyre. - -In the nave is a small but exceedingly beautiful monument bearing the -half-length effigies, side by side, under an elaborately-crocketed -canopy, of Sir Godfrey Foljambe and Avena his wife. The knight is -represented in armour, with conical helmet or bascinet, and tippet of -chain mail; his surcoat bearing the arms of Foljambe. The lady wears a -reticulated caul. In each of the spandrels is a shield, the one bearing -the arms of Foljambe, the other that of the family of Ireland, of -Hartshorne, to which the lady belonged. - -There are several tablets and inscriptions in various parts of the -church which are worthy of a passing glance, and there are also some -memorial stained-glass windows of good design. Among these is one in -memory of the late Duke of Rutland, representing the Resurrection, -bearing the following inscription:—“The above window was erected, -by subscription, in memory of John Henry, Duke of Rutland, who died -20th January, 1857, aged seventy-nine years.” Others are put in to the -memory of the late Mr. Allcard and of Mr. Jonathan Wilson and others. - -Before leaving the interior of this fine old church, it will, no doubt, -interest the visitor to be told in fewer words, and more correctly -than could be gleaned from the strange tales sometimes told in the -place, the story of the uncovering of the remains of Dorothy Vernon, -her husband, and other members of the family, during the rebuilding -and alteration of the church. When the excavations were commenced on -the site of the monument of Sir John Manners and his wife Dorothy -Vernon, the remains of two persons, supposed to be the knight and his -lady, were found; the skull of the one was identified as that of Sir -John, by its peculiar form and its likeness to his sculptured effigy; -that of the other, which lay near it, with beautiful auburn hair still -attached, among which were some pins that had been used to fasten -it—was naturally, and no doubt correctly, considered to be that of the -once lovely Dorothy. In another part three children’s leaden coffins -were found, but not opened, and the bones of an infant (probably the -“chrisom child,” represented on the tomb of Sir George Manners) were -discovered rolled up in a sheet of lead. These, no doubt, were the -children of different members of the Manners family. A leaden coffin -was also found which contained the body of a lady. The part of the lid -over the head had been violently torn away—the piece of the sheet of -lead being missing—and this was carefully and thoroughly examined. The -body had been buried in lime, but the part of the lid had been torn -off, the head cut off, taken out and surgically examined, and then -hastily replaced, but with the face downwards. The rest of the body was -undisturbed. Several other bodies were, of course, found, as were some -few other interesting matters which require no notice here. - -[Illustration: _Ancient Cross, Bakewell Churchyard._] - -In the churchyard, near the east wall of the south transept, stands -one of the finest so-called “Runic crosses” in the kingdom. It is, -exclusive of the modern pedestal, about eight feet in height: the upper -limb of the cross is broken off. Of this fine old cross we give an -engraving. The front of the cross, which in bad taste has been turned -towards the wall, is sculptured in four heights, with figures beneath -arches—the upper group being the Crucifixion: the whole, however, -is much defaced. The opposite side, the one shown in our engraving, -is boldly sculptured, with a beautiful scroll-pattern of foliage -terminating at the top in an animal, and at the bottom is a cross -within a circle; on the head is a figure on horseback. The sides of -the cross are sculptured in scroll-work of foliage, of much the same -design as the side just described; the end of one of the limbs bears an -interlaced ornament, and the other a figure. This cross, and the one -at Eyam, a few miles distant, are among the most perfect and beautiful -remaining examples of the early period to which they belong. - -If the tourist still wishes to linger for a few minutes in the -churchyard, he will find much to interest, to please, and to amuse him. -To _interest_ him in examining the external features of the church, -especially the Norman doorway and arcade, &c., at the west end, and the -beautiful doorway of Early-English design on the south side, as well as -the stone coffins grouped together in one corner. To _please_ him, in -the magnificent view he obtains of the surrounding country, especially -of the valley of the Wye as it runs its zig-zag course towards Haddon; -and to _amuse_ him, in reading the strange verses which occur on some -of the grave-stones which crowd around him on every side, and in the -church itself. - -One of these, to the memory of a former parish clerk and leader of the -choir, reads as follows:— - - “ERECTED TO THE MEMORY OF PHILIP ROE, WHO DIED 12TH SEPTEMBER, 1815, - AGED 52 YEARS. - - “The vocal Powers, here let us mark, - Of PHILIP, our late Parish Clerk. - In church, none ever heard a Layman - With a clearer Voice say Amen! - Oh! who with Hallelujah’s Sound - Like Him can make the Roofs resound. - The Choir lament his Choral Tones, - The Town—so soon here lie his Bones. - Sleep undisturbed, within thy peaceful shrine, - Till angels wake thee with such tones as thine.” - -Another long inscription to the memory of John Dale, barber-surgeon, of -Bakewell, and his two wives, Elizabeth Foljambe and Sarah Bloodworth, -1757, thus curiously ends:— - - “Know, posterity, that on the 8th of April, in the year of grace 1757, - the rambling remains of the above-said John Dale were, in the 86th - yeare of his pilgrimage, laid upon his two wives. - - “This thing in life might raise some jealousy, - Here all three lie together lovingly, - But from embraces here no pleasure flows, - Alike are here all human joys and woes; - Here Sarah’s chiding John no longer hears, - And old John’s rambling Sarah no more fears; - A period’s come to all their toilsome lives, - The good man’s quiet; still are both his wives.” - -Another reads as follows:— - - “These lines I with watery eye - For my dear friend indite, - Who for his worth, none such on earth, - Heaven crown him with true light. - - “A lawyer just, a steward most just, - As ever sate in court, - Who lived beloved, with tears interred, - This is his true report.” - -Another, locally said to have been written by Charles Wesley, brother -to the founder of Methodism, reads as follows:— - - “Beneath, a sleeping infant lies, - To earth whose body lent, - More glorious shall hereafter rise, - Though not more innocent; - When the Archangel’s trump shall blow, - And souls to bodies join, - Thousands shall wish their lives below - Had been as short as thine.” - -It may be as well to note that the principal inn at Bakewell is the -Rutland Arms: it is a family hotel, but there are other comfortable -inns in the place. Opposite the Rutland Arms are the baths and -bath-gardens: the baths, which were known to the Romans, have the -reputation of being efficacious in rheumatism. - -Having already very briefly alluded to the routes by which Haddon Hall -may be visited both from Buxton on the one hand, and from Derby on the -other, and having then spoken of some of the attractions of Buxton, -it may be well now to say a few words regarding Matlock Bath, through -which the visitor will pass by rail on his journey from London, from -Derby, or from the North. - -MATLOCK BATH is about seven miles from Haddon Hall; and, exclusive of -its baths, which are as famous as those of Buxton, and for the benefit -of which the invalid may pass the season pleasantly and profitably, -it has attractions of scenery which no other inland watering-place -can boast. Its “High Tor” rising almost perpendicularly to a height -of about 400 feet above the river Derwent, which flows at its base; -its “Lovers’ Walks,” winding along by the side of the river, and -zig-zagging up the mountain side; its “Heights of Abraham” and “Masson” -towering over the valley: its “romantic rocks,” and its many caverns; -its petrifying wells, its “grottoes,” and its other attractions, render -Matlock Bath a place of delight to the tourist; while the surrounding -district, rich in minerals, in ferns, and in other botanical specimens, -and full of gorgeous scenery, is “passing beautiful,” and will amply -repay the pleasant labour of exploring. - -At Matlock Bath the principal hotels are the “New Bath,” “Walker’s -Terrace Hotel,” “The Temple,” and “Hodgkinson’s,” and the place swarms -with lodging-houses and all things to attract and to keep the tourist. -From Matlock, delightful day-trips may be made to Haddon Hall, to -Hardwick Hall, to Chatsworth, the “Palace of the Peak”—the princely -seat of the Duke of Devonshire; to Dovedale, with its glorious scenery, -and its pleasant associations with old Izaac Walton and Charles Cotton; -to the Via Gellia and its surroundings; to Lea Hurst, the early home of -Florence Nightingale; and to numberless other places of interest—all -easily attainable by railroad or carriage. - -And now, may not a visit to this grand old Hall be productive of -thought? First, let us give thanks to the noble owner—the Duke of -Rutland—that he freely opens its gates to all comers, keeps it in a -state of neatness and order, and takes special care that Time shall -make no farther inroads on the mansion of his ancestors, preserving -it for the enjoyment of all who seek instruction and pleasure there; -permitting them, indeed, to make of one of its rooms a dinner-room for -the day; rendering it, in fact, the common property of the public, -and by his occasional presence ascertaining that all is done that can -be done for their happiness while in its gardens or within its walls: -thus practically commenting on the exhortation and protest of the -Poet-laureate— - - “Why don’t those acred sirs - Throw up their parks some dozen times a year, - And let the people breathe?” - - - - -HATFIELD HOUSE. - - -HATFIELD is entitled to high rank among the Stately Homes of England, -whether we consider its architectural merits, its historical -associations, or the picturesque attractions by which it is surrounded. -Seven centuries have passed since Hatfield became a place of note; and -the crown, the mitre, and the coronet have successively held sway over -its destinies. Of its architectural glories, little now remains of a -date anterior to that of James I., in whose reign the present noble -house was built. A part, however, of the previous _palace_ of Hatfield -still exists, interesting as the home of the Princess Elizabeth, during -the reign of her sister, Queen Mary. Nor was her residence here, though -compulsory, a state of imprisonment and oppression, as some have said; -for it is proved, from various records, that she met with considerate -treatment, and lived in a state befitting her lofty rank and queenly -prospects, till, on the death of Mary, she proceeded hence to take -possession of the throne of England. - -Hatfield House lies some twenty miles from London, in the county -of Hertford, and is the seat of the most noble the Marquis of -Salisbury—the representative of the grand old line of the Cecils. -The history of the mansion is one of considerable interest, dating, -as its name _Hetfelle_ indicates, from Saxon times, and undergoing -many changes under its royal and noble and ecclesiastical owners. It -belonged to the Saxon kings until, in the reign of Edgar, it was given -by that monarch to the monastery of St. Etheldreda, at Ely, which was -founded in 673, destroyed in 870, and refounded in 970, and erected -into a bishopric in 1108, in the reign of Henry I. - -[Illustration: _The Old Palace at Hatfield._] - -Thus Hatfield being attached to the new bishopric, and the manor -becoming one of the many residences of the prelates, acquired, it is -said, its appellation of “Bishop’s Hatfield.” Hatfield continued to be -one of the palaces of the Bishops of Ely, and was occasionally used as -a royal residence, until the reign of Henry VIII., when it was made -over to the crown. “William de Hatfield, second son of Edward the -Third, was born at the palace,” and at various times before it finally -became vested in the crown, it was used and frequented by royalty. -During the latter part of the reign of Henry VIII. the young Prince -Edward, afterwards Edward VI., resided at this palace, and is variously -stated to have been here and at Hertford when the news of the death of -his father was conveyed to him, and when, consequently, his accession -to the crown took place. In the fourth year of his reign the youthful -monarch conveyed Hatfield to his sister, the Princess Elizabeth, -afterwards Queen Elizabeth, and here she frequently resided. Indeed, -the greater part of the troublous reign of Mary, the Princess passed at -Hatfield, “with few privations and no personal hardships to endure,” -but with much mental torture; for it must not be forgotten that she -had been removed from Ashbridge to London and imprisoned in the Tower, -for her supposed participation in Wyatt’s rebellion, and was then, -under surveillance, permitted to retire to Hatfield. It was at Hatfield -that Elizabeth, it is said, while seated under an oak, received the -welcome intelligence of the death of her sister, “the bloody Queen” -Mary, and on hearing the news she fell upon her knees, exclaiming in -Latin, _A Domino factum est istud, et est mirabile oralis nostris_ (“It -is the Lord’s doing, and it is marvellous in our eyes”), words which -she adopted as a motto for her gold coinage, while on her silver issue -she chose the somewhat similar one, _Posui Deum adjutorem meum_ (“I -have chosen God for my helper”). Thus Hatfield became identified with -the coinage of the realm as well as with many of its rulers. The day -following this event Elizabeth was waited upon at Hatfield by several -noblemen of the late queen’s Council, whom she received very kindly, -“but presently showed her decided preference for Sir William Cecil -(afterwards Lord Burleigh)—the astute, the most politic Cecil—whom -she instantly appointed principal Secretary of State.” On the 23rd of -November the Queen removed from Hatfield with an escort of more than -a thousand persons, and made her progress by slow degrees to Somerset -House. - -In 1587 Elizabeth had, it is recorded, been visited at Hatfield by -Mary, whom she received with much state, and with great festivity, -playing herself upon the virginals, to accompany a child who sang. It -was at Hatfield, too, it is said, that Elizabeth received the proposals -of marriage from the King of Sweden for his son Eric, which she turned -to such profitable account with her sister by declaring that she would -never listen to any overtures of this nature which had not previously -received her Majesty’s sanction. - -It does not appear that after her accession to the throne Queen -Elizabeth ever resided at Hatfield, although she had previously been -much attached to the place, and had kept up Christmas revels and -Shrovetide and other festivities in a liberal manner. At one of these, -Sir Thomas Pope, her guardian, made “for the Ladie Elizabeth, alle -at his own costes, a greate and rich maskinge, in the great hall -at Hatfielde, where the pageauntes were marvelously furnished” with -“banket of sweete dishes,” “a suttletie in thirty spyce,” and wonderful -garnishings, but for which “folliries” Sir Thomas got “snubbed” by his -queen, who ordered these mummeries to cease. - -[Illustration: _The Front View._] - -James I., in the third year of his reign, exchanged Hatfield for the -house, manor, and park of Theobalds, with his minister, Sir Robert -Cecil, afterwards created Earl of Salisbury, whose descendant, the -Marquis of Salisbury, is the present owner, the estates passing in -regular succession from that time to the present day, and continuing to -be the principal residence of that noble family, about whom we now give -some details. - -The family of Cecil is one of considerable antiquity, and many of its -members have distinguished themselves both in statesmanship, in the -field, and in the arena of literature. The greatness of the family was -laid by Sir William Cecil, the friend and adviser of Queen Elizabeth -before she came to the throne, and her first chief Secretary of State. -“This distinguished statesman,” says Sir Robert Naunton, “was the son -of a younger brother of the Cecills of Hertfordshire, a family of my -own knowledge, though now private, yet of no mean antiquity, who, being -exposed and sent to the city, as poor gentlemen used to do their sons, -became to be a rich man on London Bridge, and purchased (estates) in -Lincolnshire where this man was born.” First he became Secretary to -the Protector Somerset, and afterwards, on the accession of Elizabeth, -he was appointed Secretary of State. In 1561 he was made President of -the Court of Wards. His great talent and assiduity won for him much -regard at court, where he was treated with great favour. In 1571 he -was created Lord Burleigh, and continued to maintain his distinguished -position in the state till his death. He resided chiefly at Theobalds, -where he often had the honour of entertaining his sovereign, who was -“sene in as great royalty, and served as bountifully and magnificently, -as at anie other tyme or place, all at his lordship’s chardge,” &c. The -events in the life of this statesman are so closely associated with the -history of England itself in the stirring times in which he lived, that -they are too well known to need more than a passing notice. After being -mixed up in every affair of state from some time before the accession -of Elizabeth, having taken part in all the proceedings connected with -the unfortunate Mary Queen of Scots, and with his own hand drawn up her -death-warrant, and after having for forty years mainly directed the -councils of the “Virgin Queen,” Sir William Cecil, now Lord Burleigh, -died on the 4th of August, 1598, in the seventh-eighth year of his age, -to the great grief of Elizabeth, who is said to have wept bitter tears -at his death. - -The eldest son of Lord Treasurer Burleigh succeeded him in his title, -which has since been augmented by the Earldom and Marquisate of Exeter; -while his youngest son, Sir Robert Cecil, inherited much of his -father’s talent and wisdom, “with a more subtle policy and a superior -capacity for state intrigue.” For certain secret services to James, -during the life of Elizabeth, he was raised by the king to the peerage. -In 1604 he was created Viscount Cranborne, and, in the year following, -he was made Earl of Salisbury. After filling the office of sole -Secretary of State, he succeeded, on the death of the Earl of Dorset, -to the high post of Lord Treasurer. “Shrewd, subtle, and penetrating,” -he discharged his duties with great ability, and while attending to -the interests of his country, forgot not his own, having, “by various -methods,” increased his inheritance to a very ample extent. - -[Illustration: _The Garden Front of Hatfield House._] - -After taking a prominent part in the affairs of state during -Elizabeth’s reign, he was the one who, on her death-bed, succeeded in -inducing her to name her successor. Cecil, who was then her Secretary, -approached her bed with the lord-keeper and the lord-admiral, and -begged the dying Queen to name her successor, when she started and -said, “I told you my seat had been the seat of kings; I will have no -_rascal_ to succeed me!”—when Cecil boldly asked her what she meant by -“no rascal?”—to which she replied, a king should succeed her, and who -could that be but her cousin of Scotland? and she begged to be no more -troubled. Nevertheless, some hours later Cecil again “besought her, if -she would have the King of Scots to succeed her, she would show a sign -unto them, whereat, suddenly heaving herself up in her bed, she held -both her hands joined together over her head in manner of a crown. Then -she sank down, fell into a doze, and at three o’clock in the morning -died in a stupor.” Five hours after her death, Cecil proclaimed James -of Scotland, King of England, Scotland, France, and Ireland, Defender -of the Faith, &c., and thus at once secured the country against -conflicting claimants to the crown. Soon afterwards he received the new -monarch at Theobalds, who a few days later rewarded him by important -offices, and by creating him Baron Cecil and afterwards Viscount -Cranborne and Earl of Salisbury. From the moment of James’s accession, -through all the troublous times of the gunpowder plot, and all the -matters relating to Lady Arabella Stuart, to Sir Walter Raleigh, and -others, down to 1612, Cecil’s was one of the most prominent names -in the kingdom. In that year “he died, worn out and wretched, at -Marlborough, on his way back to court.” In his last moments he said, -“Ease and pleasure quake to hear of death; but my life, full of cares -and miseries, desireth to be dissolved.” It was this nobleman who -exchanged his mansion of Theobalds, with the king, for Hatfield. On -his death, his title and estates descended to his only son, William -Cecil, who became second Earl of Salisbury; and, dying in 1688, was -succeeded by James Cecil, as third Earl of Salisbury. The fourth Earl -of Salisbury, also named James, died in 1694, and his great grandson, -James Cecil, the seventh Earl, was created Marquis of Salisbury by -George III., in 1789. This nobleman had succeeded his father in 1780. -He married the Lady Mary Amelia Hill, second daughter of the Marquis -of Downshire, by whom he had issue a son, who succeeded him, and two -daughters. He died in 1823, and was succeeded, as second Marquis of -Salisbury, by his only son, James Brownlow Williams Cecil, Viscount -Cranborne, who was born in 1791. His lordship married, first, in 1821, -Frances Mary Gascoigne, daughter and heiress of Bamber Gascoigne, Esq., -and assumed the surname of Gascoigne-Cecil. By this marriage he had -issue three sons, Lord James Emilius William Evelyn Gascoigne-Cecil -(who died during the lifetime of his father), Lord Robert Arthur Talbot -Gascoigne-Cecil, the present Marquis, and Lord Eustace Brownlow Henry -Gascoigne-Cecil, M.P.; and two daughters, the Lady Mildred Arabella -Charlotte Henrietta, married to A. J. B. Beresford Hope, M.P., and -the Lady Blanche Mary Harriet, married to the late J. M. Balfour, -Esq. The marquis married secondly, in 1847, the Lady Mary Catherine -Sackville-West, daughter of Earl Delawarr, by whom he had issue three -sons and two daughters, Lords Sackville Arthur, Arthur, and Lionel; and -Ladies Mary Isabella (married to the Earl of Galloway), and Margaret -Elizabeth. His lordship died in 1868, and his widow, the Marchioness of -Salisbury, was re-married, in 1870, to the present Earl of Derby. He -was succeeded by his son, the present peer. - -Robert Arthur Talbot Gascoigne-Cecil, third Marquis and sixth Earl -of Salisbury, Viscount Cranborne, and Baron Cecil, Chancellor of -the University of Oxford, was born in 1830, was educated at Eton and -at Christ Church, Oxford (B.A., 1850, M.A. and Fellow of All Souls’ -College, 1853), and in 1853 was returned to parliament as M.P. for -Stamford, for which place he sat until, in 1868, he succeeded to the -title. In 1866-7 he held the office of Secretary of State for India, -and still holds many important local appointments. In 1857 his lordship -married Georgina, daughter of Sir Edward Hall Alderson, Baron of the -Court of Exchequer, by whom he has issue living four sons, viz., James -Edward Hubert, Viscount Cranborne, born 1861; Rupert William Ernest, -born 1863; Algernon Edward Robert, born 1864, and another born 1869; -and two daughters, Beatrix, born in 1858, and Gwendolen, born in 1860. -His lordship is patron of eight livings in Hertfordshire, Dorsetshire, -and Essex. The arms of the Marquis of Salisbury are quarterly, first -and fourth CECIL, viz., barry of ten, _argent_ and _azure_, over all -six escutcheons, three, two and one, _sable_, each charged with a lion -rampant, _argent_, a crescent, _gules_, for difference; second and -third GASCOIGNE, viz., _argent_, on a pale, _sable_, a conger’s head, -erased and erect, _or_, charged with an ermine spot. Crests, first, on -a wreath six arrows in saltire, _or_, barbed and feathered, _argent_, -banded, _gules_, buckled and garnished, _or_, surmounted by a morion or -steel cap, proper (Cecil); second, on a wreath a conger’s head erased -and erect, _or_, charged with an ermine spot (Gascoigne). Supporters, -two lions, ermine. - -Hatfield House is of vast extent; it is of brick, with stone dressings. -It was built between the years 1605 and 1611 by Robert Cecil, first -Earl of Salisbury. After being suffered to fall into decay, it was -restored and beautified by the sixth earl, about the middle of the last -century.[38] In 1835, a great part of the west wing was destroyed by -fire (in which the Dowager Marchioness of Salisbury perished), little -being left of that part of the house besides the outer walls. On this -disaster occurring, occasion was taken to effect a general reparation -of the entire building. The house is built in the form of a half H, -comprising a centre and two wings, the hollow part being turned towards -the south. The centre is a magnificent example of the Palladian style, -and, although of mixed architecture, presents, in its totality, a -design of great richness and beauty. - -[Illustration: _The East View._] - -The basement-story contains an arcade with eight arches, divided -externally by pilasters, whereof the upper parts are fluted, and the -lower parts enriched with Elizabethan arabesques. The lower pilasters -are Doric, the upper Ionic. The wings are massive and comparatively -plain, supported at each corner by square turrets, seventy feet high -to the gilded vanes: the space between, comprising three stories, is -relieved by a fine oriel window of two stories. The centre tower, over -the grand entrance, is also seventy feet high; it has three stories -with coupled columns at the corners, the whole having an agreeable -pyramidal effect. The third story of the tower contains a clock, and -also the armorial bearings of the founder, with the date 1611, in which -year the present house was finished. The length of the southern front -is 300 feet, the centre being 140 feet, and each wing 80 feet wide, -with a projection from the centre of 100 feet. - -The northern front is plain—a severe simplicity, nearly allied to -grandeur, being its chief characteristic; the centre compartment, with -its entrance-doorway below and noble clock-tower above, being the only -elaboration it contains. - -The south front contains the principal entrance, and, from its symmetry -and ornate character, is, architecturally at least, the principal -one. The east front has, however, certain advantages, which go far -towards making it the most interesting, as it certainly is the most -picturesque. The view in that direction, whether from the house or -of it, is by far the most pleasing, as the founder well knew when he -caused the principal apartments to be placed on this side. The scene -from these rooms is of remarkable interest and variety; first there is -a noble terrace-walk, with enriched parapet, over which the eye wanders -at will among the clustering flowers of the Elizabethan garden, and -from thence to the maze, beyond which is the park, with its fine sheet -of water surrounded by noble old trees. - -Entering the mansion the visitor is admitted into a spacious HALL -which leads to the GALLERY, in which are preserved many interesting -relics of former days. Among these are the saddle-cloth on which “good -Queen Bess” sat on her white charger at Tilbury Fort, and another -saddle-cloth used by the first Earl of Salisbury, the celebrated Sir -Robert Cecil; a large collection of arms, many of which were taken from -the “invincible Armada” of the Spaniards; and a number of models and -other interesting objects. It contains also several effigies of men in -armour, one of which is given in our initial letter. - -The GRAND STAIRCASE is one of the most magnificent parts of this -palatial residence. It occupies, in plan, a space of 35 by 21 feet, -and comprises flights with five landings. “The balusters are massive, -and carved in the Italian form; above the handrail are represented -genii, armorial lions, &c., and here is a hatch-gate, probably to keep -the favourite dogs from ascending to the drawing-rooms. The upper -division of the ceiling is enriched by a very beautiful pendant in -the Florentine style,” relieved by gold and silver and colour. On the -walls are hung a series of family portraits of the Cecils by Lely, -Kneller, Vandyke, Zucchero, Reynolds, and others. At the foot of -the staircase is the DINING-ROOM, panelled throughout with oak, and -having an enriched ceiling. Over the door is a marble bust of Lord -Burleigh. Near this are the breakfast, summer, drawing, and other -rooms, all of which are fitted and furnished in a style of sumptuous -magnificence, and contain a vast number of very valuable paintings. -Among the pictures contained in this noble mansion are no fewer than -five original portraits of Queen Elizabeth, including the celebrated -large one by Zucchero; and many portraits, &c., which were the private -property of that sovereign. - -[Illustration: _The Gallery._] - -The GREAT HALL, or MARBLE HALL, is 50 feet by 30 feet, and is extremely -lofty. It is lit by an oriel window at the upper or daïs end, and -by three bay windows; and is panelled with oak and lined with fine -old tapestry. A carved screen, with an open gallery, decorated with -armorial bearings, badges, &c., is at the east end, and the ceiling, -which is coved and divided into compartments, is decorated with the -heads of the Cæsars. Here are deposited two banners presented to the -late marquis by the Duke of Wellington—part of the “spoil” of Paris in -1814: here are also two other banners taken in the Crimea. - -[Illustration: _The Hall._] - -The Staircase leads, almost direct, to KING JAMES’S ROOM, or the GREAT -CHAMBER, one of the noblest apartments of the house, the extreme -magnificence of which it is not easy to describe; in truth, it is too -rich, and the eye turns involuntarily to the grand oriel windows for -relief. The ceiling is of exquisite design, and was till recently plain -white; now it is all gold and colours. The chimney-piece is massive, of -white marble; and a central niche over the fire contains a life-size -statue of James I. in dark stone. The fire-dogs are of silver; the -furniture and the six chandeliers are gilt; the curtains are of white -satin; the chair and sofa coverings are crimson velvet; and the carpet, -“patent Axminster,” is of Elizabethan design, worked in brown, gold, -scarlet, and blue. This room, which is very large, contains some of the -most important pictures, including Reynolds’s portraits of George III. -and Queen Charlotte. - -The GALLERY extends the whole length of the south front; it is about -60 feet long and 20 feet wide. The ceiling is of remarkable beauty, -and of the finest examples of a period that was most prolific in such -designs. The walls are panelled with oak, and are profusely carved. - -The LIBRARY, of equal dimensions with King James’s Room, is enriched -over the chimney-piece with a fine mosaic portrait of the first Earl -of Salisbury—1608. The collection of books and MSS. is of extreme -interest and value. Here, among other treasures, are preserved “the -forty-two articles of Edward VI., with his autograph;” Cardinal -Wolsey’s instructions to the ambassador sent to the Pope by Henry -VIII., with Wolsey’s autograph; and a pedigree of Queen Elizabeth, -emblazoned, tracing her ancestry to Adam. The state papers in the -collection extend through the successive administrations of Lord -Burleigh and his son, the first Earl of Salisbury, and include -documents which came into Lord Burleigh’s hands through his connection -with the court. Here are no fewer than 13,000 letters, from the reign -of Henry VIII. to that of James I. Among the earlier MSS. are copies -of William of Malmesbury’s and Roger de Hoveden’s English History; -a splendid MS., with miniature of Henry VII.; another, with the -autograph of Henry VI.; a treatise on Councils, by Archbishop Cranmer; -the original depositions touching the divorce of Anne of Cleves; the -proclamation of Edward VI. on ascending the throne; the original -council-book of Queen Mary I.; historical MSS. by Lord Burleigh; -the Duke of Norfolk’s book of copies of his letters on the affairs -of Mary Queen of Scots; accounts of the Earl of Northumberland’s -conspiracies, and the actual draft, in the handwriting of Sir Robert -Cecil, of the proclamation declaring James of Scotland King of England, -as well as the papers relating to the gunpowder plot, and to the -Raleigh conspiracy, &c. Here are also many autograph letters of Queen -Elizabeth, and the famous Cecil papers, “the oak cradle of Queen -Elizabeth, the pair of silk stockings presented to her by Sir Thomas -Gresham, and the purse of James I.” - -The CHAPEL is a remarkably fine and interesting room, with a -richly-painted window, and a gallery decorated with paintings of -scriptural subjects. - -The Park and grounds are full of fine trees, which from many points -offer beautiful pictures, more particularly when seen in combination -with the house or garden-terraces. Among the grand old trees in the -park are the “Lion Oak,” nearly 60 feet in girth, and a thousand years -old; and “Queen Elizabeth’s Oak,” under which she is said to have been -sitting when she received the news of her accession to the throne. The -Gardens and Vineyard are remarkably beautiful and interesting. The -latter, which is entered through an avenue of yew trees forming a -picturesque wall on either side, and cut so as to give the appearance -of walls and towers, with loopholes and battlements, is immortalised by -Pepys. - -The Privy Garden, on the west side of the mansion, is enclosed within -a high and closely-cut hedge, with a close walk or avenue all around -it. In each of the four angles stood a mulberry tree, said to have been -planted by King James I., and in the centre is a pond surrounded by -rock-work. - -The three pairs of splendid entrance-gates, of French metal work, and -of the most elaborate and artistic character, were put up by the late -Marquis of Salisbury in 1846, when Hatfield House was honoured by the -presence of her Majesty and the Prince Consort. - -The town of Hatfield presents few objects of antiquity; it stands -on the side of a hill, on the height of which are the gates of the -mansion. Close at hand is the parish church, a structure with little -pretence to architectural beauty. - -We may not omit to mention that at the termination of the grounds runs -the clear and beautiful river Lee—here of considerable depth. There is -no bridge to cross to the other side, where are the kitchen gardens of -the house, but a ferry-boat is always at hand. - -On a steep above the river is the yew-tree walk—a series of pathways -bordered by the venerable trees, dwarfed generally, but producing a -most agreeable effect. - -In all respects, therefore, Hatfield House is largely gifted by Nature -as well as Art. - - - - -CASSIOBURY. - - -CASSIOBURY, or Cashiobury, as it is sometimes spelt, lies about a mile -distant from Watford, in Hertfordshire. It is, therefore, within easy -distance—sixteen miles—from London, and may be considered as one -of the breathing places of denizens of the Metropolis. The name of -Cassiobury is said, and with reason to be derived from the Casii, a -tribe of the Britons who occupied the district, and whose stronghold, -Verulamium, lies only a few miles away. The Casii were, at the time -of the landing of Julius Cæsar, commanded by Cassivelanus, under whom -they fought many battles with the invaders. The hundred is still called -the hundred of Cassio, and the affix of _bury_ evidently signifies an -assemblage of dwellings surrounded by walls, or a burgh or borough. -“Being as its name implies, the only _bury_ within the manor of Cassio -during the Saxon era, it might have been either the seat of justice -for the hundred (for the name _bury_ will admit of this construction), -or an occasional retreat of some of the British princes residing at -Verulamium, of whom Cassivelanus was one,” and by some writers it is -stated to have been “the actual seat or home of Cassivelanus.” - -Under the Saxons the manor of Cassio was, it has been stated, among the -numerous possessions of Offa with which he endowed the Abbey of St. -Albans, and it remained attached to that abbey until the dissolution of -the religious houses by Henry VIII. In Domesday Book it is stated that -“the Abbot of St. Albans holds Cassiou; it answers for twenty hides; of -these the abbot holds nineteen. There is land for twenty-two ploughs. -Six hides are in demesne, and there are five ploughs, and a sixth -may yet be made. Three foreigners and thirty-six villeins with eight -bordars have there fifteen ploughs, and one may yet be made. There -are, moreover, three bordars and two bondmen, and four mills of 26_s._ -8_d._ Meadow for twenty-two ploughs. Pasture for the cattle. Pannage -for 1,000 hogs. Its whole value is £28; when received £24; and in King -Edward’s time £30. St. Alban held and holds this manor in demesne.” -In the twelfth century the revenue duties payable from Cassio to the -abbey were, at Christmas 2_s._ and twenty-four hens; at Easter, 2_s._ -and 600 eggs; and on St. Alban’s day, 2_s._ and twenty-four cheeses. -By Henry I. the whole liberty of Cassio was formally made over to the -abbey. In 1546, after the dissolution of the monasteries, “the lordship -or manor of Cayshobury” and other places was granted to Sir Richard -Morrison, Knight, in consideration of certain property in Yorkshire -and Worcestershire, and of the sum of £176 17_s._ 6_d._ in money; to -hold the same by the service of the tenth part of a knight, and paying -for the same yearly £5 12_s._ 6½_d._ Soon after this, Sir Richard -commenced the erection of “a fayre and large house, situated upon a dry -hill not far from a pleasant river in a fayre park, and had prepared -materials for the finishing thereof; but before the same could be half -built, he was forced to fly beyond the seas.” The mansion was completed -by his son, Sir Charles Morrison, who died in 1599. On the marriage of -Elizabeth Morrison, the only surviving child of Sir Richard’s grandson, -the property passed to her husband, Arthur Capel, created Baron Capel -of Hadham in 1641, from whom the present possessor, the Earl of Essex, -is lineally descended. Baron Capel appears to have resided more at -Hadham than at Cassiobury, but his son, Arthur Capel, created Viscount -Malden and Earl of Essex in 1661, after residing there for a time, took -up his residence at Cassiobury, the greater part of which he is said to -have rebuilt—indeed, it is said that the whole of the mansion, with -the exception of the north-west wing, was rebuilt by him, employing for -the house May, the architect, and for the laying out of his gardens -Moses Cooke—who in 1675 published a volume on fruit-trees—and, it is -also said, Le Notre, and Rose, his head-gardener at Essex House, in the -Strand. - -[Illustration: _Back View._] - -Of the house and its gardens, Evelyn, on the 16th April, 1680, thus -wrote:—“On the earnest invitation of the Earl of Essex, I went with -him to his house at Cassioberie in Hartfordshire. It was on Sunday, but -going early from his house in the square of St. James’s, we arrived -by ten o’clock; this we thought too late to go to church, and we had -prayers in his chapell. The house is new, a plaine fabric built by -my friend Mr. Hugh May. There are divers faire and good roomes, and -excellent carving by Gibbons, especially the chimney-piece of ye -library. There is in the porch or entrance a painting by Verrio, of -‘Apollo and the Liberal Arts.’ One room parquetted with yew which -I lik’d well. Some of the chimney-mantles are of Irish marble, -brought by my lord from Ireland, when he was Lord-Lieutenant, and -not much inferior to Italian. The tympanum or gable at the front is -a _basso-relievo_ of Diana hunting, cut in Portland stone handsomely -enough. I did not approve of the middle dores being round, but when the -Hall is finished as design’d, it being an oval with a cupola, together -with the other wing, it will be a very noble palace. The library is -large, and very nobly finished, and all the books are richly bound -and gilded; but there are no MSS. except the parliament rolls and -journals, the transcribing and binding of which cost him, as he assured -me, £500. No man has been more industrious than this noble lord in -planting about his seat, adorned with walkes, ponds, and other rural -elegancies; but the soile is stonie, churlish, and uneven, nor is the -water neere enough to the house, though a very swift and cleare streame -run within a flight shot from it in the valley, which may be fitly -call’d Coldbrook, it being indeed excessive cold, yet producing fair -troutes. ‘Tis pitty the house was not situated to more advantage, but -it seems it was built just where the old one was, which, I believe, he -onlley meant to repaire; this leads men into irremediable errors, and -saves but a little. The land about it is exceedingly addicted to wood, -but the coldnesse of the place hinders the growth. Black cherry-trees -prosper even to considerable timber, some being 80 foote long; they -make alsoe very handsome avenues. There is a pretty oval at the end of -a faire walke, set about with treble rows of Spanish chesnut-trees. The -gardens are very rare, and cannot be otherwise, having so skilful an -artist to govern them as Mr. Cooke, who is, as to ye mechanick part, -not ignorant in mathematiks, and portends to astrologie. There is an -excellent collection of the choicest fruit.” - -By the second Earl of Essex the gardens were altered and improved; and -it is said that those of the old mansion of the Morrisons which had -not been reconstructed by the first earl, were restored or rebuilt by -him. With the exception of these alterations and a few other occasional -repairs, the house remained as it was left by the first Earl of Essex, -until the beginning of the nineteenth century, when the greater part -was again rebuilt by the late earl, from the designs of James Wyatt. - -We now proceed to speak of the families of Morrison and Capel, to whom -Cassiobury has successively belonged. - -William Morrison, or Morysine, in the reign of Henry VI. resided at -Chardwell, Yorkshire, and it was his grandson, Thomas Morrison, of -Chardwell, son of William Morrison by a daughter of Roger Leigh, -of Preston, who removed into Hertfordshire. He married a daughter -of Thomas Merry, of Hatfield, by whom he had a son, Sir Richard -Morrison, who, in 1537, succeeded Cardinal Pole in the prebend of -Yatsminster-Seconda in Salisbury Cathedral. In 1539 he was appointed -by Henry VIII. ambassador to Charles V., Emperor of Germany, in which -he was accompanied by Roger Ascham, and, in 1546, had a grant of the -manor of Cashiobury, and soon after commenced building there a mansion -of considerable size. Besides Cashiobury he had grants, and acquired -much property, in London, Wiltshire, Hampshire, and Somersetshire. -Under Queen Mary and her persecutions Sir Richard was compelled to fly -from England, and died at Strasburg in 1556. He married Bridget Hussey, -daughter of Lord Hussey (who, after his death, married successively -Henry, second Earl of Rutland, and Francis, third Earl of Bedford), -by whom he had issue one son, Sir Charles Morrison, Knight, and three -daughters, Elizabeth, married first to Henry Norris, son of Lord -Norris, of Rycote, and secondly to Henry, second Earl of Lincoln; -Mary, married to Bartholomew Hales, of Chesterfield; and Jane Sibilla, -married, first to Edward, Lord Russell, and, second, to Arthur, Lord -Grey, of Wilton. Sir Charles Morrison, who was knighted by Queen -Elizabeth, and was a minor at the time of his father’s death, married -Dorothy, daughter of Nicholas Clarke, and widow of Henry Long, of -Shengie, and by her had issue a son, Sir Charles Morrison, and three -daughters, Bridgett, married to Robert, fifth Earl of Sussex, and -Elizabeth and Catherine, who died unmarried. This second Sir Charles, -who succeeded his father in 1599, and was then a minor, was created -a baronet by letters patent, June 29, 1611, and on the coronation -of Charles I. was installed a Knight of the Bath. He married Mary, -daughter and co-heiress of Baptist, Lord Hicks and Viscount Campden -(the lady afterwards married successively Sir John Cooper, Bart., -and Sir Richard Alford, Knight), and by her had issue two sons, who -died young, and a daughter, Elizabeth Morrison, who thus became his -only heir. This lady, Elizabeth Morrison, married Arthur Capel, who, -by letters patent, dated August 6, 1641, was created Baron Capel, of -Hadham, and thus the large estates of the Morrisons, both at Cashiobury -and elsewhere, passed into the family of Capel, its present holders. -The arms of Morrison were, _or_, on a chief, _gules_, three chaplets of -the first. Crest, specially conferred on Sir Richard, in allusion to -his literary attainments, a Pegasus rising, _or_. - -[Illustration: _From the Wood Walks._] - -The noble family of Capel to whom Cassiobury, as has been stated, -passed by marriage with the heiress of Morrison, and to whom it -still belongs, is of considerable antiquity, and few families have -been enriched by so many scions of brilliant intellect. The family -appears to have been originally of Capel’s Moan, hear Stoke Neyland, -in Suffolk, and here, in 1261, resided Sir Richard de Capel, Lord -Justice of Ireland: in 1368, Lionel, Duke of Clarence, son of Edward -III., left by will “to John de Capell, my chaplain, a girdle of gold, -to make a chalice in memory of my soul.” Later on another John Capel, -who died in 1441, left, by his wife, Joan, besides a son, John, a -second son, William Capel, who was a draper and citizen of London, -“and successively alderman, sheriff, representative of the city in -Parliament, and lord mayor, and had the honour of knighthood conferred -on him by Henry VII.” He was twice lord mayor, and several times M.P. -of the city. He died in 1515, and “was buried in a chapel founded by -himself on the south side of the church of St. Bartholomew, near the -Royal Exchange, London.” He also gave his name to Capel Court. He -married Margaret, daughter of Sir Thomas Arundell, of Lanhorne, by -whom, besides two daughters, he had a son, Sir Giles Capel, Knight, who -succeeded him, and married, first, Mary, daughter of Richard Roos, son -of Lord Roos, and, secondly, Isabel, daughter of Sir Thomas Newton, by -whom he had issue a daughter, and two sons, Sir Henry and Sir Edward. -Sir Henry Capel married Anne, daughter of Lord Roos, and granddaughter -of the Duchess of Exeter, sister to King Edward IV.: he died without -surviving issue, and was succeeded by his brother, Sir Edward Capel, -whose wife was Anne, daughter of Sir William Pelham, ancestor of the -Dukes of Newcastle; he, dying in 1577, was succeeded by his eldest son. -Sir Henry Capel, Knight, who, by his second wife, Catherine, daughter -of Thomas, Earl of Rutland, had, besides several others, a son, Sir -Arthur Capel, Knight, who succeeded him, and was in turn succeeded by -his son, Sir Henry Capel. This gentleman, who, like many of his family, -had been Sheriff of Herts, married twice. By his first wife, Theodosia, -daughter of Sir Edward Montagne, he had issue, besides others, a son, -Arthur Capel, who was a minor at the time of his death. - -Arthur Capel was born about the year 1614, and, both his parents dying -when he was young, he was brought up by his grandfather, Sir Arthur. -He espoused the royal cause in the troublous times of Charles I., and -became one of his most valued and zealous adherents. He was rewarded -with a peerage, being created Baron Capel of Hadham, the king in -desiring this reward having written to the Queen, “there is one that -doth not yet pretend, that deserves as well as any; I mean Capel; -therefore I desire thy assistance to find out something for him before -he ask.” After taking an active part in support and defence of the -king, Lord Capel was imprisoned in the Tower, and on the 9th of March, -1649, he was beheaded before the great gate of Westminster Hall. “His -body was buried at Little Hadham, with an inscription stating him to -have been murdered for his loyalty to King Charles I.; and his heart, -according to a wish he had expressed to Bishop Morley, was enclosed -in a silver cup and cover, to be eventually buried at the feet of the -master whom he had so zealously served. But no funeral rites being -performed to the memory of Charles I., the cup was kept in a press at -Hadham, where it was discovered in 1703, and its contents placed in the -family vault.” It was this Lord Capel who, before his elevation to the -peerage, had married Elizabeth Morrison, and so acquired Cassiobury -and the rest of the large possessions of the Morrison family. The -issue of this marriage was four sons and four daughters, viz., Arthur, -who succeeded his father; Sir Henry Capel, created Baron Capel of -Tewkesbury; Charles and Edward, who died unmarried; Mary, married, -first, to Lord Beauchamp, and, secondly, to Henry, Duke of Beaufort; -Elizabeth, married to the Earl of Carnarvon; Theodosia, wife of the -Earl of Clarendon; and Anne, of John Strangeways. - -Arthur, second Baron Capel, was, in 1601, created Viscount Maiden and -Earl of Essex, and in 1670 was appointed ambassador to the court of -Denmark. He it was who, as has already been stated, rebuilt Cassiobury, -and formed its beautiful gardens. In 1683 his lordship was apprehended -at Cassiobury on a charge of being concerned in the famous “Rye House -Plot,” and was committed to the Tower, where he was, as is believed, -foully murdered, or at all events, where he was found dead with his -throat cut. The earl married Elizabeth, only daughter of Algernon -Percy, Earl of Northumberland, by whom he had six sons and two -daughters, most of whom dying young, he was at his death succeeded by -his fifth son, Algernon Capel. - -[Illustration: _From the South West._] - -Algernon, second Earl of Essex, was Gentleman of the Bed-chamber -to King William III., and held important offices under Queen Anne. -He married Mary, daughter of the Earl of Portland, by whom he had -issue two daughters and one son, William Capel, who succeeded him as -third Earl of Essex. This Earl married twice, and had, by his first -wife, Jane, daughter of the Earl of Clarendon, four daughters; and -by his second wife, Elizabeth, daughter of the Duke of Bedford, four -daughters, and one son, by whom he was succeeded. This was— - -William Anne Holles Capel, fourth Earl of Essex, one of the Lords of -the Bed-chamber to George II. and George III., and Lord-Lieutenant of -Hertfordshire. He married Frances, daughter of Sir Charles Hanbury -Williams, Bart., by whom he acquired the estate of Hampton Court, -Herefordshire, which was afterwards sold to Richard Arkwright, Esq., -of Cromford, Derbyshire, and by her had issue two daughters, and -a son, George Capel, who succeeded him, in 1759, as fifth Earl of -Essex; and, secondly, Harriet, daughter of Colonel Thomas Bladen, by -whom he had issue five sons, viz., one who died young; John Thomas, -whose son succeeded to the title and estates as sixth Earl of Essex; -Lieut.-General Thomas Edward Capel; Hon. and Rev. William Robert Capel, -chaplain to the King; and Rear-Admiral the Hon. Bladen Thomas Capel. -His lordship died in 1799, and was succeeded by his son, George Capel, -who, having succeeded to the estates of his maternal grandmother, -assumed the name of Coningsby, and became George Capel-Coningsby, fifth -Earl of Essex, Viscount Malden, and sixth Baron Capel. His lordship -married twice, first, in 1786, Sarah, daughter of Henry Bazett, Esq., -of St. Helena, and widow of Edward Stephenson, Esq.; and secondly, -in 1838, Catherine, daughter of Mr. E. Stephens, but had no issue by -either marriage. His lordship died in 1839, and was succeeded in his -title and estates by his nephew, Arthur Algernon Capel, the son of his -half-brother, the Hon. John Thomas Capel. - -Arthur Algernon Capel, sixth Earl of Essex and Viscount Malden, and -seventh Baron Capel of Hadham, was born January 28th, 1803. In 1825 he -married the Lady Caroline Jeanetta Beauclerk, third daughter of the -eighth Duke of St. Albans, and by her, who died in 1862, had issue: -Arthur De Vere Capel, Viscount Malden, born 1826 (heir to the title -and estate, who married, in 1853, Emma Martha, daughter of Sir Henry -Meux, Bart., and has issue), the Hon. Adela Caroline Harriet Capel, now -deceased, married to the Earl of Eglintoun; the Hon. Reginald Algernon -Capel, married to Mary, daughter of John Nicholas Fazkerly, Esq., and -niece of the Earl of Rokeby; and the Hon. Randolph Capel. In 1863, his -lordship married, secondly, the Lady Louisa Caroline Elizabeth Boyle, -daughter of Viscountess Dungarvon, and sister to the Earl of Cork, and -by her has issue living, the Hon. Arthur Algernon Capel, born 1864, -and the Hon. Beatrice Mary, born 1870. His lordship is patron of the -livings of Watford, in Hertfordshire, Rayne, in Essex, and Shuttington, -in Warwickshire. - -The arms of the Earl of Essex are—_Gules_, a lion rampant between -three cross-crosslets fitchée, _or_; crest, a demi-lion rampant -supporting a cross-crosslet fitchée, _or_; supporters, two lions, _or_, -ducally crowned, _gules_; motto, “Fide et Fortitudine.” - -The park of Cassiobury embraces an area of nearly seven hundred acres, -of which more than three hundred and fifty are called “the Home Park,” -and about two hundred and fifty the “Upper Park;” they are separated -from each other by the river Gade, which flows between them. The -remainder of the ground is divided into woods, lawns, gardens, and all -the other elegancies of grounds around the house, the site of which is -also included in it. The parks are well wooded with majestic trees, -among which are a profusion of beech, oak, elm, and fir—some of the -latter resembling in their enormous size those of Norway. Several of -the beech-trees, too, are of gigantic size, some being said to cover an -area of ground nearly 150 feet in diameter. - -[Illustration: _The Swiss Cottage._] - -The present mansion was built from the designs of Mr. James Wyatt, -at that time the fashionable architect of Fonthill Abbey, of parts -of Windsor Castle, and other places: it is of that peculiar style of -Gothic architecture which characterizes most buildings erected by him. -The general plan is a square; the building surrounding a court-yard or -quadrangle, with a cloister on two of its sides; the entrance being -to the west, the chief room to the south, the private or family rooms -to the east, and the kitchen, servants’ offices, &c., to the north. A -porch screens the entrance-doorway, that opens into a narrow cloister, -on the right of which is a small vestibule and enclosed staircase. -Eastward of these is the great cloister, having five windows, partly of -stained glass, and its walls adorned with full-length family portraits -and other paintings. - -[Illustration: _The Lodge._] - -Branching off from the cloisters is the SALOON, placed between the -dining and drawing-rooms. “Its ceiling is adorned with the painting -Evelyn mentions as belonging to the hall of the old mansion, and to -have been the work of Verrio, the subject being composed chiefly of -allegorical figures—Painting, Sculpture, Music, and War. In this -apartment are two cabinets, containing numerous miniatures painted by -the Countess of Essex,” and many family and other portraits. - -In the DINING-ROOM, which is a noble apartment, with wainscoted -walls, also hang several remarkably fine family and other portraits, -by Vandyke, Hoppner, and other painters; and several fine -pictures,—notably, “The Cat’s Paw,” by Landseer, and “The Highlander’s -Home,” by Wilkie. - -The GRAND DRAWING-ROOM, which is filled with all the elegancies and -luxuries of the most refined taste, and with the choicest cabinets, is -adorned with paintings by Turner, Callcott, Collins, and others. These -are of the highest order—rare and beautiful examples of the great -English masters in art. Adjoining the drawing-room is the conservatory -cloister, which is entered both from it and from the library. - -The LIBRARY, which occupies four rooms,—respectively known as the -Great Library, the Inner Library, the Dramatists’ Library, and the -Small Library,—is remarkably extensive; and contains, as such a -library ought, a rare collection of valuable books in every class of -literature. In these various rooms is preserved a fine collection of -family paintings; and here, too, will be seen some of Grinling Gibbon’s -matchless carvings, which are noticed by Evelyn as being there in -his day. Among the historical relics preserved in the Library is the -handkerchief which Lord Coningsby applied to the shoulder of King -William III., when that monarch was wounded, in 1690, at the battle -of the Boyne. It is stained with the blood of the king. There is also -here a piece of the velvet pall of Charles I., taken from the tomb at -Windsor, when it was opened in 1813, with a fragment of the Garter worn -by the king at his execution. - -Like these, the other apartments at Cassiobury are filled with choice -paintings and with everything that good taste and a lavish hand can -suggest. The family portraits are, as might be expected, numerous, -and of the highest order of art, several are by Vandyke, Cornelius -Jansen, Sir Peter Lely, Sir Joshua Reynolds, and other famous artists. -Throughout the rooms are scattered admirable works by Rembrandt, Cuyp, -Teniers, &c., &c. - -We have made but brief reference to the gardens and grounds, and -scarcely noticed the spacious and very beautiful Park. They are charms -that neither lofty descent nor large wealth could purchase—the -bequests only of Time. Centuries have passed since some of these -magnificent trees were planted. The house is best seen from one of the -high steeps on the opposite side of the river that runs through the -demesne; lines of venerable chestnuts border a greensward that extends -miles. - -Here and there glimpses are caught of the mansion, made by distance -more picturesque than it is at a nearer range. In fact, there is at -Cassiobury the happy combination of grandeur and beauty, natural grace -in association with rich cultivation, that makes so many of the Stately -Homes of England the boast and glory of the country. - -[Illustration: _In the Church at Watford._] - -The family burial-place of the Morrison and Capel families of -Cassiobury is at Watford, where a fine monumental chapel exists in -the parish church. This chapel “contains sepulchral memorials to the -Morrison and Capel families, from that of Lady Morrison, wife of Sir -Richard Morrison, who directed the chapel to be built in 1595.” In -the centre is an altar-tomb, supported upon six pillars, of various -coloured marbles, on which rests the recumbent figure of “Lady Bridget, -Countess of Bedford”—the lady by whom the chapel was founded—and -daughter of Lord Hussey. She died in 1600. - -On the south side “is a large and gorgeous monument to Sir Charles -Morrison the elder, whose effigy, in armour, in a reclining posture, -is placed under the canopy.” On either side of the tomb, in kneeling -positions upon pedestals, are figures of the son and daughter of Sir -Charles Morrison, and Bridget Morrison, Countess of Sussex. This work -was executed by Nicholas Stone, in 1619, who agreed with Sir Charles -to make “a tomb of alabaster and touchstone,” and whose entry in his -note-book as to price is very curious. He says he made it with “one -pictor of white marble for his father, and his own, and his sister, the -Countess of Sesex, as great as the life, of alabaster, for the which I -had well payed £260, and four pieces given to drinke.” - -On the opposite side of the chapel is another large monument to the -second Sir Charles Morrison, designed and executed by the same “carver -and tomb-maker,” as he is termed in the contract, and for which he -agreed with the widow to receive £400. There are also several other -interesting monuments and monumental slabs; the chapel is hung with -banners and hatchments. - -At this time, the church is undergoing thorough repair and restoration. - - - - -CHATSWORTH. - - -[Illustration: _Entrance to the Stables._] - -CHATSWORTH, the “Palace of the Peak,” perhaps more than any other house -in England, merits its proud distinction as a “STATELY HOME.” Situated -in the most beautiful district of Derbyshire; possessing many natural -advantages within the circuit of its domain—of hill and valley, wood -and water, rugged rock and verdant plain, and rendered attractive by -every means the most poetic imagination could conceive and unbounded -wealth accomplish, it is foremost among the finest and most charming -seats in the kingdom; where the delights of natural beauty, aided -by Art, may be fully and freely enjoyed by all comers. Belonging to -his Grace the Duke of Devonshire—one of the most enlightened and -liberal-minded of our English aristocracy—Chatsworth, with its park -and grounds, is thrown open to “the people,” under such restrictions -only as are essentially necessary to its well-being and proper -conservation. Assuredly no mansion and grounds are more freely and -liberally made available to the public, while none are more worthy of -being visited. It will be our task, therefore, to endeavour to describe -several of its beauties and attractions, and to unfold and spread out -before our readers some of the rich treasures of Nature and of Art it -contains. - -And, first, a few words on its geographical position and history. - -Chatsworth lies in the parish of Edensor, in the hundred of High Peak, -in the county of Derby. It is three miles from the Midland Railway -Station at Rowsley (of which we have spoken in our account of Haddon -Hall, and which is the most convenient station for visitors from the -south), three-and-a-half miles from Bakewell (where there is a station -convenient for visitors from the north) two from Baslow, twenty-six -from Derby, ten from Matlock Bath, nine from Chesterfield, twelve from -Sheffield, fourteen from Buxton, thirty-seven from Manchester, and -about one hundred and fifty-four from London. The railway stations -from which Chatsworth is best reached are, as just stated, Rowsley -and Bakewell; the line from London and the south to the former -passing through Derby, Duffield, Belper, Ambergate (where the lines -from Sheffield, Leeds, York, and the north join in), Whatstandwell, -Cromford, Matlock Bath, Matlock Bridge, and Darley Dale; and to the -latter from Manchester and Buxton, passing Miller’s Dale, Monsal Dale, -Longstone, and Hassop. - -At the time of the Domesday Survey of William the Conqueror, Chatsworth -belonged to the Crown, and was held by William Peverel, the entry -being as follows: “In Langlie and Chetesuorde, Leuenot and Chetel -had ten ox-gangs of land for geld [land for ten oxen]. This belonged -to Ednesoure. William Pevrel keeps them for the king. Five villanes -and two bordars have two ploughs and one acre of meadow there. Wood, -pasturable, one mile in length and one in breadth, and a little -underwood. In the time of King Edward it was worth twenty shillings; -now, sixteen shillings.” The name of _Chetesuorde_, now altered into -Chatsworth, was doubtless originally _Chetelsuorde_, from the name -of one of its Saxon owners, Chetel. After the Peverels, the manor of -Chatsworth was held by the family of Leche, who had long been settled -there before they became possessed of the manor, and who held it for -several generations. In the reign of Edward III. one member of this -family, John Leche, of Chatsworth, whose father is said to have been -of Carden (a line continued by a younger son), was one of the surgeons -to the king. In the reign of Henry IV. Sir Roger Leche, knight, held, -among other property, lands at Glossop. They also held, among others, -the manors of Totley. Shipley, Willersley, Cromford, and the prebendal -manor of Sawley. John Leche, surgeon to Edward III., was, it appears, -grantee of Castle Warin and other lands, and had a son, Daniel Leche, -whose son, John Leche, married Lucy de Cawarden, and thus became -possessed of the manor of Carden. The family of Leche of Chatsworth -became extinct in the reign of Edward VI., by the death of Francis -Leche, who had, however, previously sold this manor to the Agards. One -of the co-heiresses of Ralph Leche, of Chatsworth, uncle to Francis, -married Thomas Kniveton, of Mercaston, father of Sir William and -grandfather of Sir Gilbert Kniveton; another married a Wingfield, and -the third espoused Slater, of Sutton, in the county of Lincoln. Francis -Leche, to whom we have referred, married Alice, daughter of John -Hardwick, of Hardwick, by his wife Elizabeth, daughter of John Leake, -of Hasland, a branch of the Leakes, Earls of Scarsdale. This Alice, on -the death of her only brother, John Hardwick, without issue, became -one of his co-heiresses, with her three sisters—Mary, who married, -first, Wingfield, and, second, Pollard, of Devonshire; Jane, married to -Godfrey Bosville, of Gunthwaite; and Elizabeth, better known as “Bess -of Hardwick,” who married, first, Robert Barley, of Barley—second, Sir -William Cavendish—third, Sir William St. Loe—and fourth, Gilbert, -fourth Earl of Shrewsbury. This Francis Leche, as has just been -stated, sold the manor and estates of Chatsworth to Agard, who shortly -afterwards resold it to Sir William Cavendish, the husband of “Bess of -Hardwick,” and, consequently, the brother-in-law of Alice Leche. - -The family of Agard is of very ancient origin in the county of Derby, -being settled at Foston as early as 1310. In the reign of Charles II. -the Foston estate was sold by John Agard, and about the same time, -one of the co-heiresses of Charles Agard, the last heir-male of the -main line, married John Stanhope, of Elvaston, the ancestor of the -Earls of Harrington. Another branch of the Agards settled at Sudbury, -in the same county, and one of them married the heiress of Ferrars, -of Tamworth. The Agards, as feodaries or bailiffs of the honour of -Tutbury, were possessed of a horn (described in the “Archæologia”) -which passed, with the office, to Charles Stanhope, Esq., of Elvaston, -on his marriage with the heiress. Arthur Agard, born at Foston, in -1540, was an able and eminent antiquary, and was one of the members of -the first Society of Antiquaries. His essays read to the Society occur -in Hearne’s “Discourses,” and a treatise by him on the obscure words -in Domesday-book, are, with other papers, in the Cottonian Collection -in the British Museum. He held office as Deputy-Chamberlain of the -Exchequer, and died in 1615. A John Agard founded a chantry at Lupton. - -Shortly after acquiring Chatsworth by purchase from the Agards, Sir -William Cavendish pulled down the old Hall of the Leches, and began the -erection of the mansion which, in a few years after its construction, -was destined to become a place of historical interest. Sir William -Cavendish, it appears, died before his plans for building had been -carried out to any great extent; and its completion, on a much larger -scale than he had intended, was left to his widow (who ultimately -became Countess of Shrewsbury), by whom Hardwick Hall and other places -were erected; and of whom it was said that, having a firm belief she -should never die so long as she continued building, kept on year after -year; until at last, a terrible frost coming on, the masons were thrown -out of work, when she languished and died. The mansion, commenced by -Sir William Cavendish, and completed by his widow, was a quadrangular -building, the west front of which had a square tower at each end, -and the entrance, in the centre, was between four angular towers. Of -this front of the building a representation is happily preserved at -Chatsworth, which, through the kindness and courtesy of its noble -owner, the present Duke of Devonshire, we are enabled to engrave. - -[Illustration: _The Old Hall as it formerly stood._] - -It was in this mansion that that truly unhappy sovereign, Mary, Queen -of Scots, was kept so long a prisoner under the care of the Earl of -Shrewsbury—the suite of rooms occupied by her being on the upper, or -state-room story, of the east side of the quadrangle, and immediately -opposite to the then principal entrance. The unfortunate queen was -first brought captive to Chatsworth in May or June, 1570, from Tutbury -Castle, probably spending a short time on her way at another of the -earl’s residences, Wingfield Manor: here she remained for some months, -and here, it is pleasant to know, the severity of her confinement was -in some degree relaxed; yet the surveillance kept over her by the Earl -of Shrewsbury was enough to disappoint a scheme laid for her release -by two sons of the Earl of Derby, and a Derbyshire gentleman named -Hall. At this time the Queen of Scots’ establishment consisted of -thirty persons, among whom was John Beton, a member of the same family -to which Cardinal Beton belonged. This faithful servant, who was her -“prægustator”—an office in royal households of which frequent mention -is made in the old writers of the Middle Ages—died while Mary was in -captivity at Chatsworth, and was buried in the church of Edensor, close -by, where a monument, which yet remains, was erected by his attached -mistress. Of this monument we shall give an engraving later on. During -this same year at Chatsworth it was that the series of personal -negotiations which kept hope alive in the breast of the fair captive -was commenced, and in which Cecil and Mildmay, who were at Chatsworth -in October, took part. At this time the project of removing her to -Sheffield was mooted, and on his return to court from Chatsworth, Cecil -wrote his memorable letter, allowing her a little horse-exercise about -the grounds of Chatsworth. - - “Now for the removing of yt quene, hir Maty said at the first that she - trusted so to make an end in short tyme yt your L. shuld be shortly - ac’qted of hir; nevertheless when I told her Maty that yow cold not - long indure your howshold there for lack of fewell and other thyngs, - and yt I thought Tutbury not so fitt a place as it was supposed, but - yt Sheffield was ye metest, hir Maty sayd she wold thynk of it, and - wtin few dayes gyve me knolledg: Only I see her Maty loth to have - yt Q. to be often removed, supposying that therby she cometh to new - acqueyntance; but to that I sayd Yor L. cold remove hir wtout callying - any to you but your owne. Uponn motiō made by me, at the B. of Ross’s - request, the Q. Maty is pleased yt your L. shall, whan yow see tymes - mete, suffer ye Quene to take ye ayre about your howss on horssback, - so your L. be in copany; and therein I am sure your L. will have good - respect to your owne company, to be suer and trusty; and not to pass - fro yowr howss above one or twoo myle, except it be on ye moores; for - I never feare any other practise of strangers as long as ther be no - corruptiō amongst your owne.” - -This letter was followed by another, giving the irate queen’s promise -to remove Mary to Sheffield, whither she was taken a little before -Christmas. The orders for the government of the household of the -captive queen after her removal were so stringent and curious that -they will, no doubt, be read with interest. The original document is -preserved in the Cottonian Library in the British Museum. It is as -follows:— - - “To the Mr of the Scotts Queene’s household, Mr Beton. - - “First,—That all your people wch appertayneth to the Queen shall - depart from the Queen’s chamber or chambers to their own lodging at - IX. of the clock at night, winter and summer, whatsoever he or she; - either to their lodging within the house or without in the Towne, - there to remain till the next day at VI. of the clock. - - “Item,—That none of the Queen’s people shall at no time wear his - sword neither within the house, nor when her Grace rydeth or goeth - abroade: unless the Master of the Household himself to weare a sword, - and no more without my special license. - - “Item,—That there shall none of the Queen’s people carry any bow or - shaftes, at no tyme, neither to the field nor to the butts, unless it - be foure or fyve, and no more, being in the Queen’s companye. - - “Item,—That none of the Queen’s people shall ryde or go at no tyme - abroad out of the House or towne without my special license: and if - he or they so doth, they or he shall come no more in at the gates, - neither in the towne, whatsoever he or she or they be. - - “Item,—That youe or some of the Queen’s chamber, when her Grace will - walke abroad, shall advertyse the officiar of my warde who shall - declare the messuage to me one houer before she goeth forth. - - “Item,—That none of the Queen’s people whatsoever he or they be, - not once offer at no tyme to come forth of their chamber or lodging - when anie alarum is given by night or daie, whether they be in the - Queen’s chambers or in their chambers within the house, or without - in the towne. And yf he or they keepe not their chamber or lodgings - whatsoever that be, he or they shall stande at their perill for deathe. - - “At Shefeild, the 26th daie of April, 1571, per me, - - “SHREWSBURIE.” - -These orders satisfied Elizabeth, for Cecil says:—“The Q. Maty -lyketh well of all your ordres.” - -It will no doubt interest our readers to be put in possession of a list -of her attendants at this time. They were as follows:— - - “My Lady Leinstoun, dame of honour to the quene’s Ma^{te}. - M’rez Leinstoun. - M’rez Setoun. - Maistresse Brusse. - M’rez Courcelles. - M’rez Kennett. - My Lord Leinstoun. - M^{re} Betown, mr. howshold. - M^{re} Leinstoun, gentilman servāt. - M^{re} Castel, physition. - Mr Raullett, secretaire. - Bastien, page. - Balthazar Huylly. - James Lander. - Gilbert Courll. - William Douglas. - Jaquece de Sanlie. - Archibald Betoun. - Thomas Archebald. - D—— Chiffland. - Guyon l’Oyselon. - Andro Matreson. - Estien Hauet, escuyer. - Martin Huet, m^{re} cooke. - Piere Madard, potiger. - Jhan de Boyes, pastilar. - Mr. Brusse, gentilman to my Lord Leinstoun. - Nicholl Fichar, servant to my Lady Leinstoun. - Jhon Dumfrys, servant to Maistresse Setoun. - William Blake, servant to Maistresse Courcelles, to serve in absence - of Florence.” - -Besides these the following supernumerary servants were kindly allowed -by the earl and approved by the queen:— - - “Christilie Hog, Bastiene’s wyff. - Ellen Bog, the Mr cooke’s wyff. - Cristiane Grame, my Lady Leinstoun’s gentilwoman. - Janet Lindesay, M’rez Setoun’s gentilwoman. - Jannette Spetell. - Robert Hamiltoun, to bere fyre and water to the quene’s cuysine. - Robert Ladel, the quene’s lacquay. - Gilbert Bonnar, horskeippar. - Francoys, to serve M^{re} Castel, the phesitien.” - -The earl, to insure her safe-keeping, took to himself forty extra -servants, chosen from his tenantry, to keep watch day and night: so -this must, indeed, have been a busy and bustling, as well as an anxious -time, at Chatsworth and at Sheffield. - -In the autumn of 1578 Mary was once more at Chatsworth, but in November -was back again, as close a prisoner as ever at Sheffield. Again in 1577 -she was, for a short time, at Chatsworth, at which period the Countess -of Shrewsbury was still building there. It was in this year that the -countess wrote to her husband the letter endeavouring to get him to -spend the summer there, in which she uses the strange expressions, -“Lette me here how you, your charge _and love_ dothe, and commende me I -pray you.” In 1581 Mary was again brought to Chatsworth, and probably -was there at other times than those we have indicated. In any case, -the fact of her being there kept a captive, invests the place with a -powerful interest of a far different kind from any other it possesses. -One solitary remain—“Mary Queen of Scots’ Bower”—of this ill-starred -sovereign’s captivity at Chatsworth now exists; to this reference will -be made later on. - -It is also essential here to note, that during these troublous times, -the ill-fated Lady Arabella Stuart—the child of Charles Stuart, -Earl of Lennox, and of his wife Elizabeth Cavendish, daughter of -Sir William Cavendish, by his wife “Bess of Hardwick”—was born at -Chatsworth. The beautiful, much-injured, and ill-fated Lady Arabella, -whose sole crime was that she was born a Stuart, is thus in more ways -than one, like her relative, Mary Queen of Scots, not only mixed up -with Chatsworth, but with the family of its noble possessor. The -incidents of the life of this young, beautiful, and accomplished -lady, which form one of the most touching episodes in our national -history—the jealous eye with which Elizabeth looked upon her from -her birth—the careful watch set over her by Cecil—the trials of -Raleigh and his friends—her troubles with her aunt (Mary, Countess -of Shrewsbury)—her being placed under restraint—her marriage with -Seymour—her seizure, imprisonment, sufferings, and death as a hopeless -lunatic in the Tower of London, where she had been thrown by her -cousin, King James I., are all matters of history, and invest her -short, sad life with a melancholy interest. One of the old ballads to -which her misfortunes gave rise, thus alludes to her connection with -Derbyshire:— - - “My lands and livings, so well known, - Unto your books of majesty, - Amount to twelve-score pounds a week, - Besides what I do give,” quoth she. - - “In gallant Derbyshire likewise, - I nine-score beadsmen maintain there, - With hats and gowns and house-rent free, - And every man five marks a year.” - -During the civil wars the old hall of Chatsworth was taken possession -of, and garrisoned, in 1643, for the Parliament by Sir John Gell, -being then placed under the command of Captain Stafford, from whose -company at Chatsworth in the latter part of the year, forty musqueteers -were ordered to be drafted off, and joined to the army of Fairfax -for his proposed march to Chesterfield and the North. At the end of -the same year the Earl of Newcastle’s forces having taken Wingfield -Manor, and other places in the county, made themselves masters of -Chatsworth (which had been evacuated on his approach to Chesterfield), -and garrisoned it for the king under Colonel Eyre, who the following -spring received reinforcements from Tissington and Bakewell. In -September, 1645, “the governor of Welbecke having gotten good strength -by the kinges coming that way, came to Derbyshire with 300 horse and -dragoones, to sett upp a garrison at Chatsworth, and one Colonel -Shallcross, for governor there. Colonel Gell having intelligence -thereof, sent presently Major Molanus with 400 foott to repossess the -house; and having layn theire 14 days, and hearing of the demolishinge -of Welbecke, Bolsover, and Tickhill castles, was commanded by Colonel -Gell to return to Derby.” - -A little before these troublous times, in 1636, Thomas Hobbes, best -known as “Leviathan Hobbes” or “Hobbes of Malmesbury,” who, before -he was twenty years of age, became tutor to the sons of Sir William -Cavendish (then recently created Baron Cavendish of Hardwick), and who -lived and died in the family, thus wrote of the beauty of Chatsworth, -and of the nobleness of soul of its owner, his patron and friend:— - - “On th’ English Alps, where Darbie’s Peak doth rise - High up in Hills that emulate the skies, - And largely waters all the Vales below - With Rivers that still plentifully flow, - Doth CHATSWORTH by swift Derwin’s Channel stand, - Fam’d for its pile, and Lord, for both are grand. - Slowly the River by its Gates doth pass, - Here silent, as in wonder of the place, - But does from rocky precipices move - In rapid streams below it; and above - A lofty Mountain guards the house behind - From the assaults of the rough eastern wind; - Which does from far its rugged Cliffs display, - And sleep prolongs by shutting out the day. - Behind, a pleasant Garden does appear: - Where the rich earth breathes odours everywhere; - Where, in the midst of Woods, the fruitful tree - Bears without prune-hook, seeming now as free; - Where, by the thick-leav’d roof, the walls are made— - Spite of the Sun where all his beams display’d— - More cool than the fam’d Virgil’s beechen shade; - Where Art (itself dissembling), rough-hewn stone - And craggy flints worn out by dropping on - (Together joyning by the workman’s tool), - Makes horrid rocks and watry caverns cool.” - -Of Hobbes we give an interesting and curious memoir in the present -volume, under the head of “Hardwick Hall.” Of the old house as it -existed in 1680-1, we have, fortunately, a very graphic word-picture, -preserved to us in Charles Cotton’s “Wonders of the Peak;” and -an admirable pictorial representation in one of Knyff’s careful -drawings, engraved by Kipp, of the same house, when the south front -and other parts had been rebuilt, but the west front with its towers -was remaining entire. Cotton’s—friend and companion of Izaak -Walton—description of the place is so clever and so graphic that it -cannot fail to interest our readers. We can, however, find room for but -a few passages:— - - “This _Palace_, with wild prospects girded round, - Stands in the middle of a falling ground, - At a black _mountain’s_ foot, whose craggy brow, - Secures from _eastern tempests_ all below, - Under whose shelter _trees_ and _flowers_ grow, - With early blossom, maugre native snow; - Which elsewhere round a _tyranny_ maintains, - And binds crampt _nature_ long in _crystal chains_. - The _fabrick’s_ noble front faces the _west_, - Turning her fair broad shoulders to the _east_; - On the _south_ side the stately _gardens_ lye, - Where the scorn’d _Peak_ rivals proud _Italy_. - And on the _north_ several inferior _plots_ - For servile use do scatter’d lye in spots. - - * * * * * - - Environ’d round with _Nature’s_ shames and ills, - Black heaths, wild rocks, bleak craggs and naked hills - And the whole prospect so informe and rude, - Who is it, but must presently conclude - That this is _Paradise_, which seated stands - In midst of _desarts_, and of barren _sands?_” - -The engraving from Knyff’s drawing illustrates, to a remarkable -degree, this description by Cotton, but for our present purpose -it is not necessary, perhaps, to enter further into it. The house -formed a quadrangle, the west front being the principal. An enclosed -carriage-drive with large gates led up to the north front; the stables -and stable-yard were at the north-west angle; and the part where now -the Italian garden stands, was a large square pool of water with a -fountain in its midst. Since then the whole of the grounds have been -remodelled, the immense fish-pools, the stables, &c., taken away, and -a new part added to the mansion. The grounds were as fine, according -to the taste of the times, as any then existing, and the description -given of them by Charles Cotton brings vividly to the mind the time -when “Sunday posies,” of “roses and lilies and daffy-down-dillies” were -in vogue, and when peonies were worn in the button-hole; while rosemary -and bay were the choicest of scents. - -Fountains and statues as described by Hobbes and by Cotton still adorn -the grounds, and it may be well to note that the busts on the pillars -in the Italian garden, which we engrave, originally belonged to the -inner court of the old mansion. - -In 1687, William Cavendish, third Earl of Devonshire, who was -afterwards created Duke of Devonshire, after making considerable -alterations in the gardens and grounds, commenced rebuilding the -house. The first part commenced was the south front, which appears -to have been begun to be rebuilt on the 12th of April, 1687, under -the direction of William Talman, the architect. The east side next -followed; the great hall and staircase being covered in, in April, -1690. In 1692 Sir Christopher Wren came down and surveyed the works, at -which time it appears that about £9,000 had been expended. In 1693 the -east front and the north-east corner were commenced, Talman receiving -£600 in advance for the work. In 1700 the east front appears to have -been completed, and about the same time the principal, or west, front -of the old mansion was taken down, and the rebuilding completed in -1706. In 1703 the old south gallery was demolished and rebuilt, and -in 1704 the north front was removed, and the building of the new one -to take its place commenced. The whole edifice appears to have been -finished in 1706, but its noble owner, whose munificence and taste -reared the magnificent pile, did not long live to enjoy its beauties, -for he died in the following year, 1707. Dr. White Kennett, Bishop of -Peterborough, who preached the funeral sermon of this nobleman, wrote -at the time some account of the Cavendish family, in the course of -which he introduced some highly interesting particulars relating to -the mansion and grounds, remarking that “tho’ such a vast pile (of -materials entirely new) required a prodigious expense, yet the building -was the least charge, if regard be had to his gardens, water-works, -pictures, and other of the finest pieces of Art and Nature that could -be obtained abroad or at home.” - -The Duke seems to have determined to erect a true Palace of Art, and -for that purpose he employed the best artists of the time in its -decoration. Among the painters employed to decorate the ceilings -and walls of the various rooms with the creations of their genius, -were Verrio, Laguerre, Sir James Thornhill, Ricard, Highmore -(sergeant-painter to William III.), Price, and Huyd. The carvers in -stone and wood, whose names appear in the accounts, were Caius Gabriel -Cibber, Samuel Watson, Henry Watson his son, Mons. Nadauld, J. T. -Geeraerslius, Augustine Harris, Nost, William Davies, M. Auriol, Joel -Lobb, and Lanscroon. The principal iron-worker appears to have been -Mons. Tijou, a French smith, whose daughter was wife of Laguerre the -painter; and the lead-worker, who did the regular plumber’s work, as -well as the lead-piping of the willow-tree, and other water-works under -the guidance of Mons. Grillet, was a Mr. Cock, of London, whose bill -came to about £1,000. - -In 1820 the late Duke—William Spencer Cavendish, sixth Duke of -Devonshire—who had succeeded to the title in 1811, commenced some -great improvements at Chatsworth by erecting, from the designs of -Sir Jeffrey Wyatt, the north wing, containing, with all the domestic -offices, a number of other apartments, as well as the dining-room, -sculpture-gallery, orangery, banqueting-room, and pavilion; and by -altering and re-arranging several other rooms. The grounds and gardens, -also, were by this gifted nobleman, very materially remodelled and -improved under the direction of his head-gardener, the late Sir Joseph -Paxton, to whose labours, including the erection of the gigantic -conservatory, the forming of the artificial rocks, &c., we shall have -to refer. - -[Illustration: _Chatsworth from the River Derwent._] - -Having now traced so far as is necessary for our present purpose the -history of Chatsworth, we proceed to speak of the noble and historical -family of Cavendish, its princely owners. This, however, we shall do -but briefly; having already, in our account of Hardwick Hall, gone into -the family history at some length. - -The family of Cavendish, to whose noble head Chatsworth belongs, traces -back to the Conquest, when Robert de Gernon, who came over with the -Conqueror, was rewarded by him for his services with large grants of -lands in Hertfordshire, Gloucestershire, &c. His descendants held -considerable land in Derbyshire; and Sir William Gernon, _temp._ Henry -III., had two sons, Sir Ralph de Gernon, lord of Bakewell, and Geoffrey -de Gernon, of Moor Hall, near Bakewell. From the second of these, -Geoffrey de Gernon, the Cavendishes are descended; his son, Roger de -Gernon (who died in 1334), having married the heiress of the lord of -the manor of Cavendish, in Suffolk; and by her had issue four sons, who -all assumed the name of Cavendish from that manor. These sons were Sir -John Cavendish, Chief Justice of the King’s Bench; Roger Cavendish, -from whom descended the celebrated navigator, Sir Thomas Cavendish; -Stephen Cavendish, Lord Mayor of London; and Richard Cavendish. Sir -John married Alice Odyngseles, who brought to her husband the manor of -Cavendish Overhall; and their eldest son, Sir Andrew Cavendish, left -issue, one son, William, from whom the estates passed to his cousin. -Sir Andrew was succeeded by his brother, Sir John Cavendish, who, for -his gallant conduct in killing the rebel, Wat Tyler, was knighted -by the king; he married Joan, daughter to Sir William Clopton, and -was succeeded by his eldest son, William, a citizen and mercer of -London, who married Joan Staventon, by whom he had issue two sons, the -eldest of whom, Thomas, succeeded him; and whose son and heir, Sir -Thomas Cavendish, Clerk of the Pipe, &c., married twice, and left by -his first wife three sons, George Cavendish, who wrote the “Life of -Cardinal Wolsey,” Sir William Cavendish, and Sir Thomas Cavendish. The -second of these sons, Sir William Cavendish, became the founder of the -present ducal house of Devonshire and of several other noble families. -He married, first, a daughter of Edward Bostock, of Whatcross, in -Cheshire; second, a daughter of Sir Thomas Conyngsby, and widow of -William Paris; and third, Elizabeth, daughter of John Hardwick, of -Hardwick, Derbyshire, and widow of Robert Barley, of Barley, in the -same county. Of this lady, who became much celebrated as the Countess -of Shrewsbury—“Bess of Hardwick,” as she was called—an account will -be found in the present volume under the head of Hardwick Hall. By -these three wives Sir William had a numerous family. By his first he -had one son and two daughters who died young, and two daughters who -married; by his second he had three daughters, who died young; and by -his third (“Bess of Hardwick”), he had also several children. These -were Henry Cavendish of Tutbury; Sir William Cavendish, created Earl of -Devonshire, and who was the direct ancestor of the Dukes of Devonshire; -Sir Charles Cavendish, whose son was created Baron Cavendish of -Bolsover, Baron Ogle, Viscount Mansfield, and Earl, Marquis, and Duke -of Newcastle; Frances, married to Sir Henry Pierrepoint, ancestor of -the Duke of Kingston; Elizabeth, married to Charles Stuart, Duke of -Lennox (brother of Lord Darnley, the husband of Mary, Queen of Scots, -and father of King James I.), the issue of which marriage was the -ill-fated Arabella Stuart, who was born at Chatsworth; and Mary, who -became the wife of Gilbert, Earl of Shrewsbury. Sir William Cavendish -was succeeded by his son, Sir William Cavendish, who was created Baron -Cavendish of Hardwick, and Earl of Devonshire, by King James I., “at -which time of his creation his Majesty stood under a cloth of state -in the hall at Greenwich, accompanied with the princes, his children, -the Duke of Holstein, the Duke of Lennox, and the greatest part of the -nobility, both of England and Scotland.” The earl married, first, Anne, -daughter of Henry Kighley, of Kighley; and, second, Elizabeth, daughter -of Sir Edward Boughton, and widow of Sir Richard Wortley. - -[Illustration: _The Entrance Gates._] - -He was succeeded by his second son by his first wife, Sir William -Cavendish, as second Earl of Devonshire. This nobleman—who had been -under the tuition of the famous philosopher, Thomas Hobbes—married -Christiana, only daughter of Edward, Lord Bruce of Kinloss, a kinswoman -of the king, “who gave her with his own hand, and made her fortune ten -thousand pounds.” By her he had issue three sons and one daughter, and -was succeeded by his eldest son, William, as third Earl of Devonshire, -who was only ten years of age at his father’s death. This nobleman -married Elizabeth Cecil, daughter of the Earl of Salisbury, by whom -he had two sons, William (who succeeded him) and Charles, and one -daughter. William, fourth Earl of Devonshire, before succeeding to -the title, was one of the train-bearers to the king on his coronation, -and sat in the Long Parliament as member for Derbyshire. His lordship -was one of the principals in bringing about “the Glorious Revolution” -of 1688, and placing William III. on the throne; the place of meeting -for plotting for the great and good change being on Whittington Moor, -not many miles from Chatsworth, at a small cottage-inn belonging to -the Duke of Devonshire, known as the “Cock and Pynot” (_pynot_ being -the provincial name of the magpie), still existing, but recently -partly rebuilt. The “plotting parlour,” as the room in this cottage is -called, in which the Earl of Devonshire met Earl Danby, John d’Arcy, -and others, to plan the revolution, is held in veneration, and the very -chair in which the earl sat during the deliberations is preserved by -his Grace at Hardwick Hall, where it has been taken, and is, indeed, a -most interesting historical relic. The earl, who, as we have already -stated, was the rebuilder of Chatsworth, married Mary, daughter of -the Duke of Ormonde, by whom he had issue three sons, William (his -successor), Henry, and James; and one daughter, Elizabeth. His lordship -was, in 1694, advanced by William III. to the dignity of Marquis of -Hartington and Duke of Devonshire. He died in 1707, and was succeeded, -as second duke and fifth earl, by his son, William Cavendish, -captain of the yeomen of the guard to the king, who succeeded to -all his father’s appointments, including being Lord Steward of the -Household, Privy Councillor, Lord Warden and Chief Justice in Eyre, -Lord Lieutenant, K.G., &c.; he was also made one of the Regents of the -kingdom. His grace married Rachel, daughter of William, Lord Russel, -and on his death was succeeded by his son William as third Duke of -Devonshire. - -The third Duke, who became Lord Lieutenant of Ireland, Lord Keeper of -the Privy Seal, Lord Steward of the Household, Lord Justice for the -administration of government during the king’s absence, Lord Lieutenant -of Derbyshire, &c., married Catherine, heiress of John Hoskins, by whom -he had a numerous family. He was succeeded by his son— - -William, as fourth Duke of Devonshire, who had, during his father’s -lifetime, been called to the Upper House by the title, hitherto of -courtesy, of Marquis of Hartington. His grace was made Master of the -Horse, a Privy Councillor, one of the Lords of the Regency, Governor -of the County of Cork, Lord High Treasurer of Ireland, Lord-Lieutenant -of Ireland, First Commissioner of the Treasury, and Chamberlain of the -Household, &c. He married Charlotte, daughter, and ultimately heiress, -of Richard Boyle, Earl of Burlington and Cork, by which alliance—the -lady being Baroness Clifford in her own right—the barony of Clifford -came into the Cavendish family. The issue of this marriage was three -sons and one daughter—viz., William, who succeeded to the title and -estates; Lord Richard, who died unmarried; Lord George Augustus Henry, -who was created Earl of Burlington, from whom the present noble Duke -of Devonshire is descended; and Lady Dorothy, married to the Duke of -Portland. - -William, fifth Duke of Devonshire, married—first, the Lady Georgiana, -daughter of Earl Spencer, one of the most accomplished and elegant -women of the time, and who is best and most emphatically known as “the -beautiful Duchess,” by whom he had issue one son, William Spencer -Cavendish (who succeeded him), and two daughters, the Lady Georgiana, -married to the Earl of Carlisle; and the Lady Harriet Elizabeth, -married to Earl Granville. His grace married secondly the Lady -Elizabeth Foster, daughter of the Earl of Bristol, and widow of John -Thomas Foster, Esq. On his death, in 1811, the title and estates passed -to his only son— - -William Spencer Cavendish, sixth Duke and ninth Earl of Devonshire, -one of the most kindly, generous, and liberal-minded men, and one of -the most zealous patrons of art and literature. He was born in Paris -in 1790, and, besides holding the office of Lord High Chamberlain, -&c., went on a special embassy to Russia from the British court. This -embassy his grace conducted on a scale of princely magnificence at -his own charge, and concluded it to the entire satisfaction of both -nations. By him the modern improvements of Chatsworth were, with -master-mind and lavish hand, planned and carried out. His grace, who -never married, died in January, 1858, and was succeeded in his titles -and estates—with the exception of the barony of Clifford, which -fell into abeyance between his sisters—by his second cousin, the -present noble head of the house, who was grandson of the first Earl of -Burlington. The sixth Duke—the “Good Duke,” for by that title he is -known best, and it is as amply merited by the present noble peer—was, -by express wish, buried in the churchyard at Edensor, just outside the -park at Chatsworth, where a plain and perfectly simple coped tomb, with -foliated cross, covers his remains. - -The present noble owner of princely Chatsworth, William Cavendish, -seventh Duke of Devonshire, Marquis of Hartington, Earl of Devonshire, -Earl of Burlington, Baron Cavendish of Hardwick, Baron Cavendish of -Keighley, &c., Knight of the Garter, LL.D., F.R.S., Lord Lieutenant and -Custos Rotulorum of the County of Derby, Chancellor of the University -of Cambridge, High Steward of the Borough of Derby, &c., was born 27th -April, 1808. His grace is the eldest son of William Cavendish, eldest -son (by his wife the Lady Elizabeth Compton, daughter and heiress -of Charles, seventh Earl of Northampton), of George Augustus Henry -Cavendish (third son of the fourth Duke of Devonshire, by his wife the -Lady Charlotte Boyle, as already stated), first Earl of Burlington, -and Baron Cavendish, of Keighley, which titles were created in his -favour in 1831: he died in 1834. William Cavendish, just referred to, -was born in 1783, and in 1807 married the Hon. Louisa O’Callaghan, -eldest daughter of Cornelius, first Baron Lismore, by whom he had issue -three sons and one daughter, viz., the present Duke of Devonshire; -Lord George Henry Cavendish, the present highly-respected M.P. for -North Derbyshire, of Ashford Hall, in that county, married to Lady -Louisa, youngest daughter of the second Earl of Harewood; Lady Fanny -Cavendish, married to Frederick John Howard, Esq.; and Lord Richard -Cavendish, all of whom are still living. Mr. Cavendish died in 1812, -before his eldest child, the present Duke, was four years of age, his -wife surviving him until 1864. His grace was educated at Eton, and -at Trinity College, Cambridge, where he graduated as M.A., and was -Second Wrangler, Senior Smith’s Prizeman, and in the first class of -the Classical Tripos, 1829. In the same year he became M.P. for the -University of Cambridge, which seat he held until 1831, when he was -returned for Malton, and in the same year, as Lord Cavendish, for -Derbyshire, and at the general election in the following year, for -North Derbyshire, which constituency he represented until 1834, when -he succeeded his grandfather as second Earl of Burlington. In 1856 he -was, as Earl of Burlington, made Lord-Lieutenant of Lancashire, a post -he held until 1858, when, on succeeding to the Dukedom of Devonshire, -he was appointed Lord-Lieutenant of Derbyshire. From 1836 to 1858 he -was Chancellor of the University of London, and, besides many other -important appointments, is at the present time President of Owen’s -College, Manchester. - -His grace, at that time Mr. Cavendish, married, 1829, his cousin, the -Lady Blanche Georgiana Howard, fourth daughter of the sixth Earl of -Carlisle, by his wife the Lady Georgiana Dorothy Cavendish, daughter -of the fifth Duke of Devonshire. By this beautiful and accomplished, -as well as truly estimable lady, who died in 1840, his grace had issue -four sons and one daughter, who, with the exception of the eldest, are -still living. These are— - -1st. Spencer Compton Cavendish, Marquis of Hartington, M.P., P.C., -LL.D., was born in 1833, and is unmarried. The Marquis was educated at -Trinity College, Cambridge, where he graduated as B.A. in 1852, M.A. in -1854, and LL.D. in 1862. He holds at the present time the responsible -post of Her Majesty’s Chief Secretary of State for Ireland, and has -successively held office as a Lord of the Admiralty, Under-Secretary of -State for War, Secretary of State for War, and Postmaster-General, and -was attached to Lord Granville’s special mission to Russia. - -2nd. The Lady Louisa Caroline Cavendish, born in 1835, and married -in 1865 to Admiral the Hon. Francis Egerton, R.N., M.P. for East -Derbyshire, son of the first Earl of Ellesmere, by whom she has issue -two sons and one daughter. - -3rd. Lord Frederick Charles Cavendish, M.P. for the north division of -the West Riding of Yorkshire, born in 1836, and married in 1864 to the -Hon. Lucy Caroline, daughter of Baron Lyttelton. - -4th. Lord Edward Cavendish, late M.P. for East Sussex, born in 1838, -and married in 1865 to Emma Elizabeth Lascelles, a maid of honour to -the Queen, and granddaughter to the Earl of Harewood, by whom he has -issue two sons. - -His grace is patron of thirty-nine livings, and in Derbyshire alone -is lord of forty-six manors. His other seats are:—Hardwick Hall, -Derbyshire, about fifteen miles from Chatsworth; Holkar Hall, in -Cartmel; Bolton Abbey, Yorkshire; Lismore Castle, Ireland; Compton -Place, Eastbourne, Sussex; and Devonshire House, London. - -The arms of the Duke of Devonshire are—_sable_, three harts’ heads, -caboshed, _argent_, attired, _or_. Crest: a serpent noued, _proper_. -Supporters: two bucks, _proper_, each wreathed round the neck with a -chaplet of roses, alternately _argent_ and _azure_. - -There are four principal entrances to Chatsworth Park, two of -which—those at Edensor and Edensor Mill—are public, and the other two -(at Baslow and at Beeley) are private. The Baslow Lodge, shown on our -engraving, is stately and noble in the extreme, and forms a fitting -entrance to so magnificent a domain. The Beeley Lodge is simple and -unassuming; and that at Edensor, with its rustic cottages, remarkably -pretty. The most picturesque, however, in regard to its situation, -is the Edensor Mill Lodge, which we also engrave. Near it runs the -river Derwent, spanned by the single arch of Beeley Bridge, and it is -charmingly embosomed in trees and shrubs. - -[Illustration: _The Grand Entrance-Lodge at Baslow._] - -By whichever of the lodges the visitor enters this “wide domain,”—if -from the south, it will be at Edensor Mill or Beeley, and from the -north and other parts at Edensor or Baslow,—he will have a rich treat, -indeed, of scenery to interest him on his progress to the mansion. -The park is divided in two by the river Derwent, which flows through -it, the mansion and the Baslow and Beeley Lodges being on one side, -and Edensor, Edensor Lodge, and Edensor Mill Lodge on the other. From -either of these latter routes, which are on the higher side of the -park, the visitor obtains the finest views of the house and grounds, -and will, in his approach, cross the Derwent by the elegant bridge -shown in the engraving on page 343. - -Arrived at the house, he will—after proper application at the -Lodge, and the necessary permission obtained—be ushered through the -exquisitely beautiful gates shown on the engraving on the next page, -and be conducted through the court-yard—where stands a magnificent -weeping ash-tree, of enormous size (we well remember seeing it removed, -bodily, from Mile-Ash, near Derby, to its present proud position, as -long ago as 1830)—to the state entrance. Admitted to the princely -mansion, the first room the visitor enters is— - -[Illustration: _Edensor Mill Lodge and Beeley Bridge._] - -The SUB-HALL, a spacious apartment, the ceiling of which is enriched by -a copy of Guido’s “Aurora,” painted by Miss Curzon. The sculpture in -this sub-hall includes a statue of Domitian; busts of Homer, Jupiter, -Ariadne, Socrates, Caracalla, and others. From this hall the visitor -next enters the North Corridor, and, turning to his left, passes along -its exquisitely inlaid marble floor, to the Great Hall, which occupies -the whole length of the eastern side of the quadrangle. - -[Illustration] - -The GREAT HALL, or GRAND HALL, is a noble room, 60 feet in length by -27 feet in width, and of the full height of the two principal stories -of the mansion. The floor is formed of polished marble, laid in a -remarkably striking geometric design, in mosaic, of black and white and -veined marbles. It was originally the work of Henry Watson, being laid -down by him in 1779; but was taken up and relaid, with considerable -alterations, by the late Duke. In the centre of the hall stands an -immense marble table, of Derbyshire marble, and the chimney-piece, -which is very massive, is also of marble. At the south end of the -hall is the grand staircase, leading to the state apartments, and at -the north end, beyond the corridor, are the north stairs. The hall is -four windows in length, and galleries of communication between the -north and south run, midway in height, along the sides. The ceiling -and walls of the upper story are painted in the most masterly manner -in historical subjects, by Laguerre and Verrio. The series of subjects -are events in the life of Julius Cæsar:—They are, his passing the -Rubicon; his passing over to his army at Brundusium; sacrificing before -going to the Senate, after the closing of the temple of Janus; and his -death in the Senate House at the foot of Pompey’s pillar; and on the -ceiling is his apotheosis or deification. Between the windows, and in -the window-cases, are also painted trophies of arms, and wreaths of -flowers, &c. In the hall are two remarkably fine bronze busts placed -upon pedestals, and other interesting objects, among which is a fine -canoe, the gift of the Sultan to the late Duke. Over the fire-place is -a marble tablet bearing the following inscription:— - - “ÆDES HAS PATERNAS DILECTISSIMAS. - ANNO LIBERTATIS ANGLICÆ MDCLXXXVIII INSTITUTAS. - GUL : S : DEVONIÆ DUX, ANNO MDCCCXI HÆRES ACCEPIT, - ANNO MŒRORIS SUI MDCCCXL PERPECIT;” - -which may be thus translated:— - - “These well-loved ancestral halls, - Begun in the year of English Freedom, 1688, - William Spencer, Duke of Devonshire, inherited in 1811, - And completed in the year of sorrow, 1840.” - -The “year of sorrow,” so touchingly alluded to, being that of the death -of the much-loved and highly-gifted Countess of Burlington, the wife of -the present noble owner of Chatsworth. On the exterior of this grand -hall, on the east side of the quadrangle, are some trophies of arms, -&c., magnificently and boldly carved in _alto-relievo_ in stone, by -Watson. - -[Illustration: _The Bridge over the River Derwent, in the Park._] - -In this hall, of which our engraving gives but a sorry representation, -the visitor is usually asked to remain for a short time, and to -inscribe his name in the visitors’ book on the central table. From the -centre of the south end of this noble room, the grand staircase leads -up to the various suites of apartments on the library and state-room -stories, and on either side of this staircase an open archway gives -access to the “Grotto-Room,” the south corridor, and the apartments on -the ground floor. From the corridor at the north end, the north stairs -give access in like manner to the various apartments and to the north -wing. - -[Illustration: _The Great Hall and Staircase._] - -The house is three stories in height, and these are known as the -basement, the library, and the state-room stories. Through the -extreme kindness and liberality of the noble Duke a part of each of -these stories is, under proper regulations, permitted to be shown to -visitors. It is not our intention to describe these various apartments -in the order in which they are shown to visitors—for this would for -many reasons be an inconvenient and unwise arrangement—but will speak -of them according to the stories on which they occur. And first we take -the upper, or state-room story, which, like the others, runs round -the four sides of the quadrangle. The State-rooms and Sketch-Gallery -occupy the south side; the grand staircase is at the south-east angle; -the continuation of the gallery of old masters, the west stairs, and a -number of bed-rooms, including the Sabine-room, occupy the west side; -the north is taken up with bed-rooms, with the north staircase at the -north-east angle; while on the east are “Mary Queen of Scots’ Rooms,” -so called because occupying the same position as those used by her -in the old mansion which was removed and rebuilt, and other suites -of splendid sleeping apartments which of course are not shown to the -visitor. - -The SKETCH-GALLERY, which, as we have said, occupies the south and a -part of the west side, contains perhaps the most choice and extensive -collection of original drawings by the old masters in any private -collection, embracing the Italian, French, Flemish, Venetian, Spanish, -and other schools; and containing matchless examples of Raffaelle, -Michael Angelo, Albert Dürer, Titian, Rembrandt, Rubens, Leonardo da -Vinci, Poussin, Claude, Salvator Rosa, Correggio, Luca Signorelli, -Andrea del Sarto, Lo Spagna, Giulio Romano, Caravaggio, Zucchero, -Andrea Mantegna, Parmigiano, Giorgione, Giulio Campagnola, Paul -Veronese, the Carracci, Guido Reni, Domenichino, Guercino, Holbein, -Lucas Cranach, Lucas Van Leyden, Vandyke, Van der Velde, Jan Miel, and -indeed of almost every well-known name. The collection was formed by -the second Duke of Devonshire at considerable cost; the nucleus being -purchased at Rotterdam. Among those by Michael Angelo are a study for -the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel; some spirited studies of figures -for the same ceiling; and a Virgin and Child. By Leonardo da Vinci a -fine head of the Virgin. By Raffaelle are the sketch for the picture -by Pinturicchio at Sienna, of “Æneas Silvius kissing the foot of Pope -Eugenius IV. at the Council of Basle;” the figure of St. Paul for the -cartoon of “The Sacrifice at Lystra;” “St. Catherine,” the original -sketch for the picture now in the National Gallery; “the Virgin and -Child;” “Joseph discovering himself to his Brethren;” and others. By -Holbein, some of the finest known examples, including “the Fall of -Phaeton,” “the Last Judgment,” “Hagar and Ishmael,” “Diana and Actæon,” -and others. By Albert Dürer several fine examples. Altogether the -collection is the most remarkable in any mansion. - -[Illustration: _Vista of the State Apartments._] - -The State-apartments, which are entered from this Gallery, consist of a -splendid suite of rooms, occupying the entire length of the building. -The entrance is through a small apartment around the walls of which -is arranged a fine collection of examples of Ceramic Art, including -many good specimens of the more famous English and foreign makes. -These were, in great measure, removed here from the Duke’s villa at -Chiswick. Adjoining this, at the south-west angles, is— - -The STATE DRESSING-ROOM, the coved ceiling of which is beautifully -painted, the subject being, in the centre, the flight of Mercury on -his mission to Paris, and, on the coving, groups representing the Arts -and Sciences. The wood-carving in this room, as in the whole of this -suite of apartments, is of the most wonderful and most exquisitely -beautiful character, and is unmatched in any other existing mansion. -On the west side are four pendants and a group of the most delicate -workmanship, and over the principal doorway is represented a group of -carvers’ tools, &c.—a globe, compass, brace and bit, square, augurs, -chisels, gouges, _cum multis aliis_, and a small bust. This apartment -contains some fine Japan, inlaid, and other cabinets, and curious old -earthenware; and on the walls, besides a clever picture in mosaic, is a -frame containing what is universally admitted to be the finest and most -wonderful specimen of wood-carving ever executed;—this we engrave. -It is usually called “Grinling Gibbons’ masterpiece,” and whether by -Gibbons or not (and there is no direct authority either one way or -other), it is, _indeed_, a masterpiece of art. Concerning the question -whether the carving is by Gibbons or not, we shall have a few words to -say when writing of the chapel. The “masterpiece” is a group consisting -of a cravat of point-lace, as clear and delicate in the open-work as -the finest lace itself, a woodcock, some foliage, and a medal with a -bust in relief. Of this group Horace Walpole thus wrote:—“When Gibbons -had finished his work at that palace (Chatsworth) he presented the -Duke with a point cravat, a woodcock, and a medal with his own head, -all preserved in a glass-case in the gallery;” but he had no authority -for any such statement, nor is there any record of Gibbons having ever -been at Chatsworth. From the door of this room the vista, when looking -through the state-apartments, is remarkably striking and effective; the -flooring throughout the suite being of oak parqueterie which reflects -the light in a pleasing manner. This we engrave. - -[Illustration: _Grinling Gibbons’ Masterpiece._] - -The OLD STATE-BED-ROOM, the first apartment seen through the doorway in -our engraving, is a fine and very interesting apartment. The ceiling, -which is coved, is splendidly painted, the principal subject being -“Aurora chasing away the Night;” and the walls are hung with embossed -leather of rich arabesque pattern, heavily gilded; the frieze, also -of embossed leather, is richly foliated, with medallions bearing -respectively the bust of the late Duke of Devonshire, his crest and -coronet, and his monogram, alternating round the room. Over the -doorways are splendid examples of wood-carving of groups of musical -instruments; on one group is suspended a medallion head of Charles II., -and the words “CAROLVS II. DEI GRATIA,” and on the other a watch. Over -and around the chimney-piece are cherubs’ heads, birds, foliage, &c., -of the same fine class of wood-carving. In this room (besides cabinets, -vases, and beakers, and a charming model of the tomb of Madame Langlan, -at Hildebank, near Berne, in which the spirits of the mother and child -are seen bursting through their broken tomb) is a noble and ancient -embroidered canopy and state-chair, the work of Christiana, Countess of -Devonshire, the wife of the second Earl of Devonshire. - -[Illustration: _The Old State Bed-room._] - -The canopy is of crimson velvet, exquisitely covered with needlework -in gold and colours, in groups of figures, trees, animals, and -insects;—here, a goat, a stag, a fox, a rabbit, a pig, dogs both -leashed and single, a horse, an eagle, and a swan; there, butterflies, -flies, and innumerable other devices around; while inside the top -a group of three figures within a border is in the centre, and the -rest dotted with animals, flowers, &c., with a border of figures and -foliage. The back of the canopy bears, above the chair, the arms of -Cavendish (_sable_, three bucks’ heads caboshed, _argent_, attired -_or_) impaling those of Bruce of Kinloss (_or_, a saltire and a -chief, _gules_, on a canton, _argent_, a lion rampant, _azure_), with -mantling, helmet, crest, &c. Supporters, dexter, a stag, proper, -gorged with a wreath of roses, _argent_ and _azure_, attired _or_, -for Cavendish; sinister, a wild man, proper, wreathed round the -head and loins with laurel, _vert_, for Bruce. Motto, CAVENDO TVTVS -FVIMVS; the first part, “Cavendo Tvtvs,” being the Cavendish motto, -and the latter part, “Fvimvs,” that of Bruce; the rest of the velvet -is covered with flowers, animals, &c., and surrounded by a border of -groups and flowers. The chair is of the same character, Christiana, -Countess of Devonshire, to whose fair hands is owing this charming -piece of embroidery, and to whose good taste the arrangement of these -blended armorial insignia is due, was the daughter of Edward, Lord -Bruce of Kinloss, and sister of the first Earl of Elgin, from whom the -present ninth Earl is lineally descended. The armorial bearings upon -this canopy are therefore peculiarly interesting as showing, not only -the impaled arms themselves, but the blended supporters and motto, of -Cavendish and Bruce. In this room are also preserved the coronation -chairs and foot-stools of George III., and Queen Charlotte, and of -William IV. and Queen Adelaide; and a wardrobe which is said, whether -correctly or not, to have belonged to Louis XVI. - -The STATE MUSIC-ROOM, like the others, contains some exquisite -wood-carving. Over one doorway are flowers, fruit, wreaths, wings, &c., -and a ribbon with the family motto “CAVENDO TVTVS;” over the other, -flowers, fruit, and cornucopia; and over the chimney-piece are heads, -festoons, flowers, fruit, corn, foliage, &c., all true to nature. -Over the central door is a group of musical instruments, and in the -centre of the frieze is a garter and monogram. The walls are hung with -embossed leather, richly gilt and heightened with blue, and the frieze -has the medallion heads, crest, and monogram of the late Duke, as in -the apartment just described. The ceiling is splendidly painted with -mythological subjects, and several interesting pictures, busts, and -other objects, are arranged in the room. One of the features of this -apartment remains to be noticed. It is a curious piece of deceptive -painting on one of the double doors leading to the gallery—a fiddle -painted so cleverly on the door itself as to have, in the subdued light -of the half-closed door, all the appearance of the instrument itself -hanging upon a peg. The tradition of Chatsworth is, that this matchless -piece of painting was done by Verrio to deceive Gibbons, who, in his -carvings, had deceived others by his close imitation of nature. - -The STATE DRAWING-ROOM has its walls hung with tapestry from -Raffaelle’s cartoons, and its carved ceiling is splendidly painted -with mythological and allegorical subjects, in the same manner as the -rest of this suite of rooms. The carving over one of the doors is a -military trophy, consisting of swords, drum, battle-axes, shield, -helmet, with dragon crest, foliage, &c.; and over the other, military -music and foliage. Above the chimney-piece, around an oval in which is -a portrait of the first Duke, are Cupids, trophies, shells, foliage, -masks, helmets, arms, &c., and an owl; beneath these are two carved -banners with the Cavendish arms, tied together with a snake (the family -crest). Among the furniture and adornments of this room are some fine -examples of china and earthenware, and a remarkably large malachite -table. - -[Illustration: _The State Drawing-room._] - -The STATE DINING-ROOM, which forms the south-east angle of the -building, is a splendid apartment, the ceiling of which, by Verrio, is -of the most masterly conception, and represents, among an assemblage of -gods and goddesses, the Fates cutting the thread of life, &c., and on -one side of the coving is a monogram of the letter D. - -[Illustration: _The State Dining-room._] - -The carvings in this noble apartment are of matchless character, and -hang in a profusion that is almost bewildering. In the panels of the -wainscoted walls are festoons of flowers, &c.; over one doorway is a -group of leaves and corn, and over the other two are splendid groups -of crabs, lobsters, fish, and shells, all “as true to nature as nature -itself.” Over the fire-place, across the top, and hanging down the -sides of an octagonal tablet, is the richest of all the rich carvings -of this suite of rooms. It consists of dead game—heron, pheasants, -&c., at the top; over and around these a net is loosely thrown, which, -hanging down the sides, forms a groundwork of festoons, on which hang -pheasants, woodcocks, grouse, partridges, snipes, and other birds, so -true to life that it is only by careful examination that the spectator -can discover that they, with the net and all the mouldings, are carved -out of solid wood. In this room are several busts in marble by -Chantrey, Nollekens, and others. Among these are the Emperor Nicholas -of Russia, and his Empress; Fox; Canning; Francis, Duke of Bedford; -Lord G. H. Cavendish, &c. There are also cabinets of rare old china. On -the central table will be noticed, among rare and valuable articles, -the rosary of King Henry VIII.; a fine set of carved ivory chessmen; -ivory-carvings, rare glass and china; and silver filigree and other -ornaments. And there is also the malachite clock presented to the late -Duke by the Emperor Nicholas of Russia, and an exquisitely sculptured -marble model of the Victoria Regia. - -From this room a doorway opens on to the GRAND STAIRCASE—the casings -of the doorways, of exquisitely-carved marble, being worthy of especial -note—in the south-east angle. Opposite this doorway another door opens -into a suite of apartments, of course not shown to visitors, but to -which some brief allusion may here be made. Here are the rooms usually -known as MARY QUEEN OF SCOTS’ ROOMS, but which really have no possible -connection with that ill-fated lady. They are so called because they -occupy the same position in the present building as those used by her -did in the old one; they overlook the inner court, or quadrangle, on -its east side. The other suites of bed-rooms adjoining are known as the -“Leicester” and “Wellington” rooms, and they are fitted, as may well be -supposed, in a style of princely magnificence. In one of these rooms -is the bed and bed-room suite used by Her Majesty Queen Victoria when -a guest at Chatsworth. This suite is of satin-wood, hung in green and -white satin. - -On this same floor is the SABINE-ROOM, so called from the subject -of the “Rape of the Sabines,” by which it is adorned. This singular -apartment, when the doors are closed, is one large painting, the whole -surface, from floor to ceiling, doors included, being painted with -figures, groups, and architecture, &c. The ceiling, too, is splendidly -painted with an allegorical subject. At the angles of the coving is the -monogram of the Duke of Devonshire, within a garter, and surmounted by -the Ducal coronet. The furniture of this and the adjoining room is of -the finest, most massive, and sumptuous description. - -The MIDDLE, or LIBRARY STORY, besides occupying the four sides of the -quadrangle or inner court (in the same manner as the upper story), -extends the whole length of the north wing; it is, therefore, the -most extensive and important part of the mansion. The grand staircase -is at the inner south-east angle, and the north stairs at the inner -north-east angle. The south side is taken up with the gallery of -paintings, the chapel (at the south-west angle), the billiard-rooms, -and the two drawing-rooms; the west by the gallery of paintings, -the west staircase, and suites of bed-rooms; the north side by the -library-corridor and sumptuous bed-rooms, &c.; and the east side by -galleries of the great hall, and the library and ante-library. The -north wing, continuing in a line with the libraries, comprises the -dining-room, sculpture-gallery, and orangery. - -The GALLERY OF PAINTINGS, which occupies two sides of the quadrangle, -and from which access is had to the various apartments, contains, -with the adjoining ante-room, many remarkably fine and valuable -art-treasures—such, indeed, as no other mansion can boast. Among -these, it will be sufficient to name Landseer’s original paintings -of “Bolton Abbey in the Olden Time,” and “Laying down the Law,” a -number of family portraits by Reynolds, Lawrence, and others; with two -remarkable representations of the old mansion, one of which we engrave -on page 325. - -The BILLIARD or MUSIC-ROOM, and the GRAND DRAWING-ROOMS, which form one -continued suite, are as well-proportioned, as chastely and elegantly -decorated, and as magnificently furnished, as can well be imagined, -and they contain a matchless collection of works of art. In the -billiard-room, from which a door opens into the gallery of the chapel, -are several remarkably good paintings, the most striking of which are -an admirable full-length portrait of the present Duke of Devonshire, -seated, and a full-length portrait of the father of the present noble -Duke. Among the treasures of art in the drawing-room (the ornaments -of the ceiling and cornices of which are richly gilt) may just be -named Reynolds’s celebrated portrait of “the beautiful Duchess” of -Devonshire, Rembrandt’s grand head of a Jewish Rabbi, and picture-gems -by Claude, Murillo, Bassano, Steinwyck, Salvator Rosa, Titian, Berghem, -Gaspar Poussin, Leonardo da Vinci, Primaticcio, Parmigiano, Watteau, -Teniers, Breughel, Guercino, Giordione, Carlo Maratti, Jan Miel, and -others. - -In the Grand Drawing-room, which has a splendid ceiling divided into -compartments, and, with the massive panellings of the pictures let into -the walls, is richly gilt, are some rare and priceless full-length -paintings. These are Philip II., by Titian; Admiral Capella, and -Antonio de Dominis, by Tintoretto; the Duke of Albemarle, by Dobson; -Henry VIII., by Holbein; Mary Queen of Scots, by Zucchero; and Charles -I., by Jansen. The furniture is of the most sumptuous character, and -every elegancy which the most perfect taste can desire, or the most -liberal expenditure secure, adds endless charms to the room. We -engrave one portion of this apartment, and also the Hebe of Canova, -with which, and other rarities, it is graced. - -[Illustration: _The Drawing-room._] - -[Illustration: _The Hebe of Canova._] - -From the south windows of this suite of rooms a magnificent view of the -grounds is obtained. Immediately beneath is the spacious lawn, bordered -with raised parterres, festoon flower-beds, and sculpture; in the -centre of the lawn is a basin with a central and four other fountains. -Beyond this is seen the lake, with the “Emperor” fountain casting up -its waters to an enormous height, and skirted on its sloping sides with -majestic forest trees, and with grassy slopes and statuary; the park -stretching out to the right. From the east window of the drawing-room -the view is equally fine, but of different character. Here is seen, in -all its beauty, the wonderful cascade shown in one of our engravings, -the waters of which come rolling down from the dome of the temple to -the head of the broad walk in the middle of the grassy slope where -it disappears under the ground and is no more seen. To the right and -left beautiful glimpses of the grounds are obtained, while beneath the -window, to the right, a flight of steps, guarded by two sculptured -lions, forms a striking foreground. From this room, besides the doorway -which connects it with apartments we have been describing, one door -gives access to the grand staircase, and another to the library. - -Of the various apartments composing the north and west sides, it will -be unnecessary for our present purpose here to speak, further than -to say that they are as sumptuously and as tastefully arranged and -furnished as such a palace with such a princely owner requires. - -The LIBRARY, which is about 90 feet long by 23 in width, and of -corresponding height, is one of the most elegant, best arranged, and -most perfect libraries in existence. This noble apartment has eight -windows in length on its east side, between which are presses for -books, surmounted by looking-glass; the opposite side and the ends are -also lined with books, and an elegant gallery, to which access is had -by a concealed spiral staircase, runs along the ends and one side. -The ceiling is white and gold, and is adorned with three large, and -five smaller, circular paintings of the most exquisite colouring, by -Louis Charon. The mahogany book-cases are divided into presses by gilt -metal-columns, from which stand out the brackets supporting the gallery. - -[Illustration: _The Library._] - -The chimney-piece, of Carrara marble, has beautifully sculptured -columns with wreaths of foliage, and is surmounted by candelabra, -massive vases, and a magnificent mirror. In the glass-cases and -table-presses, as well as on the shelves, are preserved, as may well -be supposed, one of the richest and rarest collections of books and -MSS. which any house can boast. It would be an endless task, and indeed -quite out of place in this work, much as we desire to linger in the -room, to attempt to give even a very brief _résumé_ of the treasures -it contains. We cannot, however, resist the temptation of saying that -here is the famous Anglo-Saxon MS. of Caedmon, which is altogether, -perhaps, the most important, and the finest MS. of the period. The -prayer-book of Henry VII. is highly interesting, both historically and -artistically. It is of 8vo size, and consists of 186 leaves of vellum, -on several of which are beautiful miniatures in the most exquisite -colouring and design; many of these designs, as notably, our Saviour -in the act of benediction, the murder of St. Thomas A’Becket, and St. -George, are remarkably fine both in conception and execution. It was -given by the king, Henry VII., to his daughter, Margaret, Queen of -Scotland, mother to the Lady Margaret Douglas, who in turn gave it to -the Archbishop of St. Andrew’s. It contains the following among other -touching gift lines:— - - “Remembre yr kynde and louyng fader in yo^r good prayers. Henry R.” - - “Pray for your loving father that gave you this booke and gave you - God’s blessing and mine.” - - “My good Lorde of St. tandrews, I pray you pray for me that gave you - thys bouk. Yours to my powr, Margaret,” - -and many other MSS. The _compotus_ of Bolton Abbey, 1287 to 1385; the -“Liber Veritas” of Claude Lorraine (for which, we believe, no less -than £20,000 was at one time offered); a splendid collection of Wynkyn -de Worde’s and Caxton’s printings; a marvellously fine assemblage of -early editions;—altogether, as rich, as curious, as important, and as -valuable a collection of books as can anywhere be found. We know of no -place where we should so much delight to remain as among the literary -treasures in this grand library, which has for us many hidden charms. - -Passing out from this splendid apartment, is the ANTE-LIBRARY, formed -of two exquisitely beautiful little rooms, filled with books of the -greatest value and interest. The ceiling of the first or larger room of -these is richly gilt, and adorned with paintings by Hayter and Charles -Landseer. The smaller apartment is a perfect architectural gem, of -apsidal form, the dome supported by a series of columns and pilasters -with Corinthian capitals. In this room are some remarkably fine -vases on pedestals. From the Ante-Library a door opens on the NORTH -STAIRCASE, on which are hung a fine full-length portrait of the late -Duke of Devonshire, by Sir Francis Grant; full-length portraits of the -Emperor Nicholas of Russia, and of his Empress; Sir Thomas Lawrence’s -full-length portrait of George IV. in his coronation robes; and a -curious old painting, nearly life-size, of the “Flying Childers,” with -the following “certificate” of the age of the horse;—“September ye 28, -1719. This is to certifie that the bay stoned horse his Grace the Duke -of Devonshire bought of me was bred by me, and was five years old last -grass, and noe more. Witness my hand, Leo. Childers.” - -[Illustration: _Fireplace by Westmacott in the Dining-room._] - -The DINING-ROOM is a large and noble apartment with a slightly -“barrel-shaped” ceiling, divided into hexagonal panels filled with -roses and foliated flowers richly gilt. The doors, at one end opening -into the vestibule leading into the cabinet library, and at the -other into the sculpture-gallery, have their cases of white marble, -the entablatures supported on massive Ionic columns. The room is -lit by five windows on its east side, and opposite to these are two -exquisitely beautiful white marble chimney-pieces, each of which has -two life-size statues, two by Westmacott and two by Sievier. Around -the room are six side-tables; two are of hornblende, two of Siberian -jasper, and two of porphyritic sienite. The furniture is massive and -appropriate, and the walls display family portraits, chiefly by Vandyke. - -[Illustration: _The Sculpture Gallery._] - -The SCULPTURE GALLERY, one of the “glories” of Chatsworth, is entered -from the dining-room at one end, and at the other opens into the -Orangery. This noble gallery is 103 feet in length and 30 in width, is -of proportionate height, and is lighted from the roof. The walls are of -finely-dressed sandstone, and the door-cases of Derbyshire marble; the -entablatures supported by Corinthian columns and pilasters of various -marbles with gilt capitals. Of the precious treasures contained in this -gallery it would be impossible, in the space we have at our disposal, -to speak at length. We shall, therefore, content ourselves with simply -enumerating some of the more prominent sculptures, noting that the -pedestals, columns, &c., are all of the most choice and valuable -materials. Among the examples here, and in other parts of the mansion, -so charmingly and effectively arranged, are the following:— - -[Illustration: _Mater Napoleonis._] - -By Canova, a statue of Endymion sleeping, his dog watching at his feet; -a statue of Hebe; a statue of Madame Mère, the mother of Napoleon; a -colossal bust of Napoleon; a bust of Madame Mère; a noble bust of the -late Duke of Devonshire; some female heads; and a bust of Petrarch’s -Laura. By Thorwaldsen, a fine statue of Venus with the apple; a bust -of Gonsalvi; _bassi-relievi_ of Day and Night; Priam petitioning -Achilles for the dead body of Hector; Briseis taken from Achilles by -the heralds; and others. By Chantrey, a bust of George IV.; a bust of -Canning. &c. By Schadow, a statue of the Filatrice, or Spinning-Girl; -and some beautiful bas-reliefs. By Finelli, a statue of Cupid playing -with a butterfly. By Trentanove, a seated figure of Cupid in thought; -a relief-profile; a bust of a Vestal, after Canova. By Kessels, a fine -statue of a Discobolus or quoit-thrower. By Tadolini, a powerful -statue of Ganymede with the eagle. By Albacini, a statue of Achilles -wounded. By Pozzi, a fine group of Latona reproaching the shepherds, -accompanied by the young Apollo and Diana. By Tenerani, a group of -Cupid taking out a thorn from the foot of Venus. By Gibson, a splendid -group of Mars and Cupid. By Wyatt, a charming statue of Musidora. By -Gott, a statue of Musidora; a colossal bust of Ariadne; and a group of -greyhound and puppies. By R. Westmacott, a statue of a cymbal-player; -and a bas-relief of Bacchantes springing through the air. By Bartolini, -a recumbent statue of a Bacchante; statue of the Venus de Medici; a -bust of the Countess Maria Potocka; and the Medici Vase. By Barruzzi, -a group of Venus and Cupid. By Prosalendi, a statue of Diana. By T. -Campbell, a statue of the Princess Pauline Borghese; a bust of the -same princess; a colossal bust of the late Duke of Devonshire; a bust -of Thomas, Earl of Newburgh. By Rinaldi, a bust of Ceres and a bust -of a Bacchante; a colossal bust of Canova. By Rennie, a colossal bust -of Achilles. By Rauch, a bust of the Emperor Nicholas. By Wickmann, a -bust of the Empress Alexandra Feoderowna. By Nollekens, busts of C. J. -Fox; Francis, Duke of Bedford; William, fifth Duke of Devonshire; and -Lord George Cavendish. By Bonelli, a bust of Lady George Cavendish. By -Dantan Jeune, a bust of Bellini. Many of the busts here named are in -the state-rooms, and besides the sculptures we have enumerated there -are many other beautiful examples of this art in various parts of the -house and grounds. From the Sculpture Gallery— - -The ORANGERY is entered by a massive doorway between two splendidly -carved colossal lions, after Canova. It is 108 feet in length and 27 in -width, and, beside its myriads of beauties as a conservatory, contains -some exceedingly fine specimens of sculpture. From the centre of the -Orangery egress is had to the grounds, and at its north end a corridor -(in which are some pieces of ancient sculpture and mosaic) leads to -the baths and to a staircase which gives access to the banqueting or -ball-room, and the open pavilion. These are not, of course, shown to -the public; but, nevertheless, a few words may well be added concerning -them. - -The BALL-ROOM, or BANQUETING-ROOM, as it is sometimes called, is a -magnificent apartment, 81 feet long by 30 in width, and very lofty. -The ceiling is divided into compartments, each of which contains -a beautiful painting set in richly-gilt framing; the whole of the -intermediate parts being painted in fresco, with medallions of crest -and coronet and monogram of the Duke. Prominent among the subjects -on the ceiling are Sir James Thornhill’s “Perseus and Andromeda,” -paintings by Louis Charon, and a view of Chatsworth, with allegorical -figures in the front. Over this room is the open PAVILION, from which -extensive and charming views of the surrounding country are obtained. - -[Illustration: _The Pavilion and Orangery, from the East._] - -The lower, or BASEMENT STORY, remains to be noticed. This, like the -other stories we have described, runs round the four sides of the -quadrangle of the main building; the basement of the north wing being -devoted to the kitchens and domestic and business offices. The grand -staircase occupies the inner south-east angle, the grand hall and -various private apartments taking up the east side. On the north is -the entrance, the sub-hall, the north corridor, and various private -apartments. The west front is occupied by the Duke’s private suite of -rooms, the Marquis of Hartington’s private rooms, the west entrance, -the west staircase, and corridor. The south side comprises the south -corridor, the Chapel at the south-west corner, the Oak Room, the south -entrance, the Stag Parlour, and other apartments. It will only be our -province on this story (having already described the sub-hall, north -corridor, and grand hall), to speak of the corridors, the Chapel, and -cursorily of one or two other of the apartments on this floor. Passing -beneath the grand staircase in the great hall is the “GROTTO ROOM,” -the ceiling of which, supported by four massive pillars and twelve -pilasters, is divided into compartments; some of them being enriched -by the _insignia_ of the Order of the Garter. Opposite the entrance is -a boldly and powerfully sculptured fountain-piece, the central subject -of which is Venus at the Bath; the accessories being dolphins, crabs, -lobsters, fish, and other appropriate objects. To the east of this -room is an ante-room giving access to the south-east sitting-room (a -charming apartment filled with interesting pictures and other works of -art), and to the apartments on the east, as well as to the grounds. On -the west is the SOUTH CORRIDOR, from which doors open into the various -rooms on this side. In this corridor are several curious old paintings, -and it is further adorned with bronzes and some splendidly-carved -antique coffers. In the centre of this corridor a door opens into -the OAK ROOM, and, although this is not shown to visitors, it is so -truly and strikingly beautiful that we cannot resist the temptation -of just alluding to it. This was formerly the “Chaplain’s Room,” but -by the good taste of its late noble owner was altered and made what -it certainly now is, one of the gems of the house. It is lined on all -sides with the most magnificent old oak carving of panels, figures, -busts, &c.; and the ceiling is supported by four majestic twisted oak -pillars, with composite capitals, carved in foliage, and reminding -one forcibly of Raffaelle’s celebrated cartoon. The entablature is -heraldic: it is composed of thirty shields of arms, emblazoned in their -proper colours. The lower part of the “wooden walls” are arranged as -book-cases, and above these the panels are doubly filled with a series -of beautiful landscapes and sea-pieces, by Carmichael. The centre of -the floor, within the oak piers, is of oak parqueterie; the remainder -is filled with tiles, in imitation of tesselated pavement. Adjoining -this room is the Chapel. - -The CHAPEL at Chatsworth, which occupies the south-west angle of the -mansion, is perhaps the most striking and peculiar to be seen in any of -the “stately homes” of our country. Its arrangement also—for its altar -is at the _west_ end—is somewhat unusual, and its decorations are of -the most exquisitely beautiful character. This elegant chapel is 47 -feet 4 inches in length by 23 feet 10 inches in width, and in height -it occupies two entire stories, reaching from the ground-floor up to -the floor of the upper, or state-room, story. At its east end, midway -in height, and communicating with the gallery of paintings and with the -billiard-room, is a gallery supported upon two massive pillars of black -marble, with white marble capitals and bases. The chapel is lighted -by three windows on the upper story. The floor is paved with marble, -and the altar-piece is also of marble; the pillar and steps of black, -and the remainder of white marble. On the sides are two fine figures -of Faith and Hope, by Caius Gabriel Cibber (father of Colley Cibber), -who was much employed at Chatsworth from 1688 to 1690, or thereabouts, -and who, besides these marble figures, carved two large Sphinxes, -statues of Pallas, Apollo, a Triton, and other figures. The top of the -altar-piece is exquisitely sculptured with cherubs and festoons, and at -the sides are vases of flowers. In the lower pediment or recess is a -dove, and there are also some charming figures of cherubs, &c.; under -the recess is a most chaste and beautiful bust of our Saviour. - -[Illustration: _Carving over one of the Doors of the Chapel._] - -The chapel is wainscoted throughout in its lower story with cedar, -which, besides its beautiful rich colour, gives a peculiar yet very -grateful odour to the place, and accords well with the subdued light -and its general effect. The reading-desk also is of cedar. The ceiling -and the upper story of the apartment are painted in the same remarkably -fine manner as those of the state-rooms, by Verrio and Laguerre; the -subjects being, “The Incredibility of St. Thomas,” “Christ and the -Woman of Samaria,” “Christ Healing the Blind,” and the “Ascension of -our Saviour.” There are, also, figures of the Christian attributes, -Justice, Mercy, Charity, and Liberality. - -[Illustration: _Carving over one of the Doors of the Chapel._] - -The great glory, artistically, however, of the Chapel at Chatsworth, -and, indeed, as we have already said, of the state-rooms of this noble -pile, are the splendid wood-carvings which adorn its walls and the -heads of its upper doors. Between the large panels of the cedar walls -are exquisite pendants, ten in number, and others occur on each side of -the altar. The pendants consist of flowers, fruit, foliage, and corn, -festooned and entwined with drapery in the most free and graceful -manner, and so true to nature in every detail as to be deceptive. -Over the doors in the gallery are fine figures of Cupids with musical -instruments. These, and some of the pendants, we engrave. - -[Illustration: _Carvings in the Chapel._] - -And now it becomes necessary to say a word or two as to the authors -of these and the other exquisite carvings which adorn the rooms of -Chatsworth. Those in the chapel, as well as some others, are generally -believed and generally stated to be by Grinling Gibbons; and if -marvellous skill in execution, masterly conception, delicate handling, -and purity of design, be any special characteristic of the work of -that great genius, then, most assuredly, there is sufficient in these -examples to lead the most able judges to appropriate them to him; -judgment, however, and popular belief must not be allowed to usurp the -place of facts, and it is an undoubted fact that in the accounts of -the building of Chatsworth, although the names of all the more noted -artists and contractors appear, that of Grinling Gibbons does not, it -is stated, once occur; still it is possible that work might have been -done by him, and it is conjectured that as the sum of £14 15_s._ was -paid to Henry Lobb, the carpenter, for cases in which some _carved -work_, statues, and pictures, were conveyed to Chatsworth from London, -this carved work _might_ be by Gibbons. - -The principal wood-carvers were Thomas Young, William Davies, Joel -Lobb, and Samuel Watson, to the latter of whom is undoubtedly due -the credit of much of the work which has of late been ascribed to -Gibbons. Those who have admired the exquisite carving of flowers, dead -game, fish, nets, festoons, &c., in the State Dining-room, to which -we have alluded, and have considered them to be by the master-hand of -Gibbons, will perhaps learn, with some little surprise, that they are -the creations of the genius of Watson (a Derbyshire worthy), and his -co-labourers, Lobb and Davies. The following is the memorandum relating -to the agreement as to this work, contained in the original book of -work done by Watson from 1690 to 1712. “Sept. 9, 1692. Joel Lobb, -William Davies, and Samuel Watson agreed with the Earl of Devonshire -to execute in lime-tree, the carving of the great chamber, to be done -equal to anything of the kind before executed, for which they were to -receive £400; this carving consists of flowers, wreaths, dead game, -cherubs,” &c. The original designs by Watson for some of the carving in -this room (as well as in others) are preserved. - -Samuel Watson was born at Heanor, in Derbyshire, in 1662, and is said -to have studied under—indeed to have been an apprentice of—C. Oakley, -in London. Soon after completing his apprenticeship he commenced work -at Chatsworth, and here he continued to be employed, as the accounts -show, until 1712, only three years before his death, which took place -in 1715. He was buried at his native village, Heanor, where a tablet -remains to his memory, bearing the following verse:— - - “Watson is gone, whose skilful Art display’d - To the very life whatever Nature made; - View but his wondrous works in Chatsworth hall, - Which are so gazed at and admired of all - You’ll say ‘tis pity he should hidden lie, - And nothing said to revive his memory. - My mournful friends, forbear your tears, - For I shall rise when Christ appears. - - “This SAMUEL WATSON died 29th March, 1715, aged 53 years.” - -There is nothing, so far as we are aware, to show by whom the carvings -in the chapel were executed, but they have been pronounced by competent -judges, and by no less an authority in late years than Mr. Rogers, to -be the work of Gibbons. The probability is they are by him, and it is -also equally probable that he was the presiding genius of the place, -supplying designs, and, besides working himself, directing the labours -of others. We regret that space will not admit of our speaking at -greater length upon this tempting and fascinating subject; but, giving -one or two engravings of portions of the carvings,[39] we must now pass -on to say a few words concerning the exquisite modern decorations of -the private library and rooms adjoining. - -The WEST LIBRARY and the LEATHER ROOM are, without exception, the -most purely elegant and chaste in their fittings and decorations of -any apartments we know, and nothing could possibly exceed the purity -of taste displayed in them. The ceiling of the Library is delicately -frescoed in arabesque foliage, and groups of figures in rich colours, -and the spaces between the book-presses are similarly decorated. -Among the decorations of the ceiling are several beautifully painted -medallion-heads of Virgilius Maro, Marcus Tullius Cicero, Horatius -Flaccus, Titus Livius, and others: over the book-cases are also -medallion-portraits, supported by figures and foliage, of famous poets, -with appropriate sentiments: thus, over Shakspeare occurs “Exhausted -worlds and then imagined new;” over Milton, “A Poet blind yet bold;” -Byron, “The wandering outlaw of his own brave land;” Scott, “The -Ariosto of the North;” Chaucer, “Well of English undefiled;” Thomson, -“As Nature various, and as Art complete,” and so on. The doors of this -and the adjoining room are so arranged with imitation book-backs, that, -when they are closed, it is impossible to see any means of egress or -ingress. The books on these doors (like those in the Great Library) -have fictitious names, many of which, written by Hood, although perhaps -not in good keeping with the excellent taste of the rest of the -fittings, are extremely amusing, and worthy of his inimitable vein of -humour. Of these it is difficult to resist giving an example or two. -Here they are:—“Horn Took on Catching Cows;” “Wren’s Voyage to the -Canaries;” “Dyspepsia and Heartburn, by the Bishop of Sodor;” “Dibdin’s -Cream of Tar;” “Minto’s Coins;” “Merry’s Gay;” “Esterhazy on Spring -Fogs;” “Inigo Jones on Secret Entrances;” “Hyde upon Wood;” “Macadam’s -Rhodes;” “Egg, by Shelley;” “Skye, by McCloud;” “Bramah’s Rape of the -Lock;” “Beveridge on the Beer Act;” “D. Cline on Consumption,” and many -others. - -[Illustration: _The Private or West Library._] - -The “Leather Room” has its walls and ceiling formed entirely of -embossed leather richly gilt; the ceiling heightened in medallions -with blue ground and relief-painted figures, and with richly decorated -pendants. Adjoining these rooms is the West Entrance, the floor of -which is of mosaic, and the ceiling bears an allegorical painting of -the Arts; in the centre is Architecture, holding a drawing of the west -front of Chatsworth, crowned by Fame, and beneath are Cupids with plan -of Chatsworth, and compasses, &c. In the coving are Cupids, and on the -walls hang some interesting pictures. - -In the West Corridor are preserved some highly-interesting Roman -inscribed sepulchral stones, and other sculptures. One of these is -inscribed:— - - “DIS MANIBVS - LUCCIAE · NYMPHICES - QVAE · VIXIT · ANNIS · XVIII - FECIT - M · ATILIVS · PHILOLOGVS - CONIVGI - CARISSIMAE - ET · SIBI.” - -And another is inscribed as follows:— - - “DIS MANIBVS - TI · CLAVDI · THALLIANI - VIX · AN · XX · DIEB · XX - CLAVDIA · FELICVLA - MATER · FILIO - PIISIMO.” - -In the West Lodge, at the entrance gates, are also preserved many -fragments of ancient sculpture, and a portion of a Roman tesselated -pavement with _guilloche_ pattern and other borders. Among the -sculptures is a marble cinerary urn bearing the following inscription:— - - “DIS MANIBVS - CARIIAPMIIB MVSA F · APOIII - NARIS · PATRONVS CONIVGI BENI - MIRENII H IVIIA MYRAMAIIRE F PIIS.” - -Another cinerary urn is inscribed:— - - “D M - REMNO.” - -There are also other portions of inscriptions, and among the more -interesting of these remains are:—A fine _torso_ of Venus, and -another _torso_ of a female, of very similar dimensions; the head of -a stag, life-size, presented to the Duchess of Devonshire by the King -of Naples; heads of fawns, of Jupiter, of a Cupid, of Silenus, &c.; -part of a colossal medallion of Lucius Verus; a bas-relief of Bacchus, -supported by a younger male figure; an _alto-relievo_ of a procession -of Silenus, in which that god is shown seated on a chariot, and leaning -on a young Bacchante, and a fawn is playing on the double pipe; a -number of architectural ornaments; some fine masks and portions of -masks; an _alto-relievo_ of three female figures and the dog Cerberus; -a fragment representing Diana and Actæon; two right hands, one grasping -the other firmly, as if struggling in wrestling or fighting; some -Egyptian figures, &c., and many other fragments. - -[Illustration: _The Sculpture Gallery and Orangery._] - -Above the Lodge, too, some good architectural and other fragments of -sculpture are preserved. - -[Illustration: _Bust of the late Duke of Devonshire._] - -The gardens and grounds of Chatsworth are marvels of beauty, and are, -indeed, in many respects, matchless both for their picturesqueness, -their elegance, and the skill with which they have been laid out. -Leaving the mansion from the door of the Orangery, to the left is a -spacious alcove, and to the right, running in a direct line for more -than a quarter of a mile in length, is a broad gravel path, at the -summit of which, beneath a lofty avenue of trees, is seen a gigantic -vase, bearing the simple name of “Blanche,” in touching memory of the -much-loved and accomplished Lady Blanche Georgiana Howard, the wife of -the present Duke of Devonshire. - -From this spot the view on all sides is truly grand (embracing the -mansion, the gardens, the lakes, basins and fountains, the woods and -shrubberies, the park and the river, and the distant country towards -Rowsley), and paths lead in various directions among the beauties of -the place: here a delightful little dell or a fernery where ferns and -heaths grow in wild profusion, there another dell of rhododendrons, or -with statuary among heathery banks and masses of rock. Near here, too, -is a sylvan slope, headed by a gigantic bronze bust of the late Duke, -mounted on a pillar, composed of fragments of an ancient Greek fluted -column from the Temple of Minerva at Sunium. On the base are these -beautiful verses by Lord Carlisle:— - - “These fragments stood on Sunium’s airy steep; - They reared aloft Minerva’s guardian shrine; - Beneath them rolled the blue Egean deep; - And the Greek pilot hail’d them as divine. - - “Such was, e’en then, their look of calm repose. - As wafted round them came the sounds of fight, - When the glad shouts of conquering Athens rose - O’er the long track of Persia’s broken flight. - - “Tho’ clasped by prostrate worshippers no more, - They yet shall breathe a thrilling lesson here; - Tho’ distant from their own immortal shore, - The spot they grace is still to freedom dear.” - -Of this classic pedestal, with its crowning bust, we give an engraving -on the preceding page. - -Opposite to the Orangery is the FRENCH GARDEN, with its forest of -pillars surmounted by busts, its grand old Egyptian figures, its -Chinese beakers and vases, its sculptured figures and groups, and its -raised parterres: near this are green-houses, conservatories, and -camelia and orchid houses, with their endless store of beauties; while -here and there an antique tomb, or sculptured figures, or groups of -statuary, add their charms to the place. - -[Illustration: _The French Garden._] - -From above this part of the gardens a broad path to the right leads on -to the Great Conservatory, passing on its way the Cascade, the Willow -Tree, and other interesting spots. The Grand Cascade, of which we -give an engraving, the Willow Tree, and other parts of the artificial -water-works, were designed and executed, as already stated, in the -early part of last century, by M. Grillet, and added to and repaired -by the late Duke, under the direction of Sir J. Paxton. The water -supplying the Great Cascade, the fountains, and the other portions of -the works, falls, as will be seen in our engraving, from the summit of -the wooded heights at the back of the grounds, and is then conveyed -along a lofty arched aqueduct, from the end of which it falls with -considerable force, and is then carried underground to the temple, at -the head of the cascade. Here it rises to the domed roof of the temple, -which becomes a sheet of water, and, rushing through the various carved -channels prepared for it in the groups of figures, &c., makes its way -down the cascade, formed of a long series of stone steps with flats at -regular intervals, and at the bottom sinks into a subterranean channel -at the spectator’s feet. - -[Illustration: _The Great Cascade._] - -The Temple, which is open, is of circular form in its interior, with -recess and niches with stone seats, the niches enriched with carved -shell-heads and festoons of flowers. Externally, an open temple -supported on six pillars surmounts the dome. In front, over the central -arch, is a powerfully-carved recumbent figure of Neptune holding an -urn; below him, on either side, is an immense dolphin, with head -downwards; and on the sides are water-nymphs with vases. On either side -the open archway is a gigantic dolphin’s head, and at the base are -dragons. From the whole of these figures and heads the water rushes -out, and, simultaneously, two beautiful fountains rise in front of the -temple. - -[Illustration: _The Alcove._] - -In the grounds not far from this temple is a charming ALCOVE of -Moresque design, which forms a beautiful retreat, at a bend in the -drive, with a pleasant little rill running down near it. The front -of the alcove is formed of two horse-shoe shaped arches supported on -granite pillars, the spandrels carved with monograms; on the ceiling -are the Cavendish arms and motto twice repeated. On the wall inside are -two tablets, one bearing the following lines:— - - “Won from the brow of yonder headlong hill, - Through grassy channels, see the sparkling rill - O’er the chafed pebbles, in its murmuring flow, - Sheds freshness on the thirsty vale below, - Quick’ning the ground till trees of every zone - In Chatsworth’s soil and clime, forget their own.” - - H. L. Sept. MDCCCXXXIX. - -On the other is this inscription:— - - “Ecce, supercilio clivosi tramitis undam - Elicit: illa cadens raucum per levia murmur - Saxa ciet, scatebrisque arentia temperat arva.” - -[Illustration: _Waterworks—The Willow Tree._] - -The WILLOW-TREE, one of the most striking and clever of the -water-works, is a weeping willow, about twenty feet in height, entirely -formed of copper and lead, and coloured in imitation of a real tree. It -stands in a charming little circular dell, overhung with forest-trees, -and surrounded by banks and rockeries covered with luxuriant ferns and -other plants, itself rising from a central rock-work, around which runs -a path. At the entrance to this little dell are a vase and fountain, -and at the opposite side is a leaden statue of Pan, holding in his hand -the Pandean pipes, and having a goat at his feet. From each leaf and -stem of this remarkable tree, the water, when turned on from a small -hidden cave in the rock in front, rushes out in a rapid stream, and -thus forms a novel kind of “shower-bath” to any luckless visitor who -may happen to be beneath it. - -[Illustration: _Part of the Rock-work._] - -At the same time, a number of jets rise up from hidden pipes all around -the dell, and these streams being directed angularly upwards towards -the centre, while those from the tree fall in all directions downwards, -there is no way of escape without being caught in the heavy shower. Of -this tree we give an engraving from a photograph taken specially for -the purpose, with others of our illustrations, by Mr. George Green, of -Worthing, an eminent photographic artist, whom we specially engaged for -these Chatsworth views, and whose skill deserves high commendation. -Near the Willow-tree, passing onwards towards the grand conservatory, -is a rocky archway of wondrous construction, and a little beyond this -a “rocky portal”—an immense block of unhewn stone, turning upon an -axis with such ease as to be moved with the pressure of a single finger. - -Passing through this portal, one of the next most striking objects is -a perpendicular rock, of great altitude, down whose face a stream of -water is for ever falling, and this water supplies some charming little -lakes filled with aquatic plants, in whose windings and intricacies the -botanist and lover of nature might revel for hours. - -[Illustration: _The Great Conservatory._] - -The GREAT CONSERVATORY, one of the wonders of Chatsworth, besides its -own attraction as the finest conservatory in the kingdom, possesses -an historical interest as being the first of its kind ever erected, -and from which the idea of the Great Exhibition building of 1851, and -all the later exhibition buildings, including the “Crystal Palace” at -Sydenham, was taken. This splendid conservatory was erected some years -ago by Sir Joseph, at that time Mr., Paxton, and is, in its interior, -277 feet in length, 123 feet in width, and no fewer than 67 feet in -height in its centre. Its form is that of a trefoil; the transverse -section showing a semicircle 70 feet in diameter, rising from two -segments of circles springing from breast-walls. The whole building is -of glass, constructed on the “ridge and furrow” principle, with iron -ribs. About 70,000 square feet of glass are used in this gigantic -building, and the iron sash ribs alone are calculated to extend, if -laid together lengthways, no less than forty miles. At each end is a -large doorway, and along the centre is a wide carriage-drive, so that -several carriages can, on any special occasion, as on the Queen’s -visit in 1843, be within the building at the same time. Besides the -central drive, there are side-aisles running the entire length, and -a cross-aisle in the centre of the building. A light and elegant -gallery also runs round the entire interior, and is approached by a -staircase hidden among the rockery. Of the collection of trees and -plants preserved in this giant conservatory, it is not necessary to -speak further than to say that from the smallest aquatic plants up to -the most stately palm-trees, and from the banana down to the papyrus -and the delicate ferns, every conceivable rarity and beauty is here, -flourishing in native luxuriance and in endless profusion. Beneath the -conservatory a railway runs around the entire building, for fuel and -other purposes. - -[Illustration: _Part of the Rock-work—the Rocky Portal._] - -Not far from the conservatory, and approached by a path between tall -and stately yew hedges, is a sweetly pretty circular pool of water, -with central fountain, filled with water-lilies, and surrounded -first by a broad circular band of grass, then by a broad encircling -gravel-path, edged on half its circumference with a closely-cut yew -hedge with arched entrances, and the other half planted at regular -intervals with cypress-trees. This, however, is but one of many -charming spots which characterize the grounds at Chatsworth. - -[Illustration: _The Emperor Fountain._] - -The EMPEROR FOUNTAIN is one of the great attractions of Chatsworth, -and one that to see is to remember. This marvellous fountain throws -up a thick jet of water no fewer than 267 feet in height, which, -spreading out as it falls, forms a liquid sheet of spray, on which, not -unfrequently, the sunlight produces an exquisite rainbow. The quantity -of metal, we are told, required in the formation of the pipes, &c., -for this gigantic work, amounts to nearly 220 tons. The force of the -water is so great that it is said to rush out of the pipe at the rate -of a hundred miles a minute. Near the “Emperor” are other fountains -of great beauty, and when all are playing, the effect is beyond -description. - -[Illustration: _The Garden on the West Front._] - -Of the truly elegant and indeed wondrous gardens and parterres on the -west and south fronts of the mansion, and of the thousand and one -other attractions of the place, we have not time to speak, so lengthy -has our article upon this “Palace of the Peak” already become; but -there are yet two or three objects before passing out into the outer -grounds and the kitchen-garden &c., on which we must say a word. These -are the trees that were planted by royalty, and which most loyally -have been tended, and grown up to a wondrous size. One of these is an -oak-tree planted (well do we remember the circumstance, and the pretty, -simple, earnest, and interesting appearance of the youthful princess -at the time) in 1832, by our present beloved Queen, when, as a child -of thirteen, then the “Princess Victoria,” she visited Chatsworth, -with her august mother the Duchess of Kent. This tree, which in its -forty years’ growth has become a stately oak, bears the label,—“This -Oak planted by Princess Victoria, October 11th, 1832.” Near it is a -Spanish chestnut thus labelled—“Spanish chestnut, planted by the -Duchess of Kent, October 17th, 1832.” Then comes a sycamore planted -when the Queen and the Prince Consort, “Albert the Good,” visited -Chatsworth in 1843; it is labelled—“This Sycamore planted by Prince -Albert, 1843.” In another part of the garden, opposite the west front, -are a “Sweet Chestnut, planted by the (late) Emperor of Russia, 1816;” -and a “Variegated Sycamore, planted by the Archduke Michael of Russia, -1818.” A tree was also planted by H. R. H. the Prince of Wales, on the -visit of himself and H. R. H. the Princess of Wales, to Chatsworth, in -December, 1872. - -[Illustration: _West Front from the South._] - -Chatsworth Park and grounds, from the Baslow Lodge on the north to -Edensor Mill Lodge on the south, and from the East Moor on the east to -Holme Wood on the west, are somewhere about ten miles in circumference, -and comprise an area, in round numbers, of about 1,200 acres; and it -would be difficult to find anywhere, in the same space, so great -a variety of scenery ranging from the purely sylvan to the wildly -romantic, and from the luxuriant wood to the rugged and barren rock, -where beauties of one kind or other crowd together so thickly, or where -such a charming alternation from one phase to another exists. But it -is impossible even briefly to attempt to speak of these beauties—our -engravings will have shown some of their features; others must be left -for the eye of the visitor to revel in while there. On one or two more -points only can we touch. - -[Illustration: _The Hunting Tower._] - -The HUNTING TOWER, which forms so conspicuous an object in the -landscape, crowning the wooded heights at the back of the house, and -from which floats a huge flag whenever the Duke is at Chatsworth, was -built in the reign of Queen Elizabeth as a prospect-tower, from which -the ladies of the family, and guests, might watch the progress of -the chase. It is a massive erection, of square form, with a circular -turret at each angle, and is about ninety feet in height; it commands a -magnificent prospect on every side. Near it, by the lake, or reservoir, -is the SWISS COTTAGE—a perfect cottage ornée. - -[Illustration: _Mary Queen of Scots’ Bower._] - -QUEEN MARY’S BOWER is one of the best-known objects in the park, -being situated near the drive leading from the bridge to the house, -and at a short distance only from the banks of the river Derwent. -This interesting relic of the unfortunate queen is a raised enclosure -surrounded by a deep moat, and approached by a flight of steps which -bridge over the water on its south side. Externally the “bower,” -overhung with trees and covered here and there with ivy which reaches -up to its open balustrade, is highly picturesque; internally it is a -pleasant enclosed grassy retreat, rendered shady by the trees which -grow in and around it. - -The KITCHEN GARDENS lie to the left of the drive from the house to -Baslow, and near to the banks of the Derwent. They are of great -extent, and of the most perfectly scientific character in the -arrangements—indeed, it would be impossible to find finer or better -constructed gardens attached to any mansion. At the entrance to -the gardens, shortly after passing through the lodge, is the house -formerly inhabited by the late Sir Joseph Paxton, M.P., who was head -gardener to the late Duke of Devonshire. This house, originally a fit -dwelling-place for the head gardener of such a grand establishment as -Chatsworth, but which had “grown with the greatness” of Sir Joseph -until it became in itself an elegant mansion, is now very properly -altered and divided into two residences. Sir Joseph Paxton, whose -career was marked with great success, was born at Milton Bryant, in -Bedfordshire, on the 3rd of August, 1803, his father, a small farmer, -being a tenant of the Duke of Bedford. - -[Illustration: _The Late Sir Joseph Paxton’s House._] - -Sir Joseph was brought up to be a gardener, and was, when quite a boy, -taken under the care of his elder brother, at that time head gardener -at Wimbledon House. When a little more than twenty years of age he -was placed in the Horticultural Gardens at Chiswick, and, being quick -and clever, he had the charge of a plant-range committed to his care. -These grounds joined those of the Duke of Devonshire’s seat, Chiswick -House, and his grace, finding young Paxton attentive and intelligent, -took much notice of him. The result was that his grace, a short time -before leaving England as Ambassador to Russia, made an engagement with -him. In May, 1826, shortly after the Duke’s return, Paxton entered -upon his new duties as head gardener at Chatsworth, being at that time -about twenty-three years of age. In the following year he married Miss -Sarah Bown, and soon after was made forester, and next, manager, of -the parks, and of the game department, and was consulted by his noble -employer upon most subjects connected with the household and estates, -and ultimately, he added to his already important offices that of agent -for the home district of Chatsworth. - -In 1831, Mr. Paxton, in conjunction with Mr. Harrison, commenced the -publication of “The Horticultural Register.” Other works followed, -including his “Magazine of Botany,” a “Practical Treatise on the -Culture of the Dahlia,” a “Pocket Botanical Dictionary,” the “Flower -Garden,” and others, and these will undoubtedly remain standard works. -During the whole of this time, and to the time of the death of the -duke, Mr. Paxton’s mind was actively engaged, and his energy constantly -employed, in the improvement of the gardens and grounds at Chatsworth, -and the erection of the grand conservatory and other plant-houses, -&c. In 1851 he brought his talents to bear in a national matter—the -designing and erecting of the Great Exhibition building of that year, -taking as his model the conservatory which, on his own design in every -particular, he had a few years before erected. In the same year he -was knighted by the Queen, at Windsor, on the 23rd of October, and -in 1854 was elected M.P. for the City of Coventry. Sir Joseph Paxton -designed the present Crystal Palace, and it is not too much to say that -to his principle of glass buildings, of a wide span, and glazed on -the ridge-and-furrow principle (invented by him), there is scarcely a -railway-station, conservatory, or large public hall or pavilion, that -does not trace its origin. Sir Joseph died in 1865, and Lady Paxton in -1871. - -Of the interior of the VICTORIA REGIA HOUSE we give an engraving, -showing the gigantic leaf and flower of this royal plant, which was -first grown, and first flowered, at Chatsworth, and named after our -beloved Queen, to whom the first flower was presented in 1849. Besides -the “Victoria Regia House,” other points of interest in the kitchen -gardens are the “New Holland House,” the “Amherstia House,” the “Pine -Houses” and the “Vineries.” The kitchen gardens are not, of course, -open to visitors. - -The village of EDENSOR, closely adjoining the park, was, with the -exception of the church and one or two houses, removed to its present -position from its former site in the park some forty years ago. It -is, indeed, the most perfect model village we have ever seen, and the -beauty of its villas—for every cottage in the place _is_ a villa—the -charm of its scenery, and the peace and quietness which seem to -reign in and around it, make it as near an _Eden_ on earth as one -can expect any place to be, and to which its name most curiously and -appropriately points. Edensor is entered by a very picturesque lodge -from the park, and the outlet at its upper extremity is also closed by -gates, so that the only thoroughfare through the place is a highway -to Bakewell. Besides the Agent’s house, there are in Edensor a good -parsonage house and a village school, but, luckily, there is neither a -village ale-house, blacksmith’s forge, wheelwright’s shop, or any other -gossiping place; and unpleasant sights and discordant sounds are alike -unknown. - -[Illustration: _The Victoria Regia._] - -The old church of Edensor was taken down a few years ago, and the -present one, from the design of Gilbert Scott, erected on its site by -his grace the present Duke of Devonshire. The old church consisted -of a nave with side aisles and a chancel, and it had a square -battlemented tower at its west end. The nave and western porch were -also battlemented; the battlements being carried over the gable of the -chancel-arch, in the centre of which was a niche for a sanctus-bell. -The east window was of decorative character, as were those at the east -end of the south aisle, and one near the priests’ door on the south -side of the chancel. Interiorly the church possessed many interesting -features, including some remarkable capitals, which have mostly been -preserved, with the curious monuments, in the new edifice. - -[Illustration: _Edensor Church and Village._] - -The present church, completed in 1870, is a remarkably fine and elegant -structure, with a lofty tower and broach spire at its west end; of it -we give an engraving, as seen from the upper part of the village, from -a photograph by Mr. E. F. Bampton, of Edensor. It consists of a nave -with side aisles, a chancel, and a monumental chapel opening from the -south side of the chancel. The font, which is of marble, and extremely -chaste and beautiful, is at the west end, and the pulpit, which also -is of marble, is placed against the chancel-arch. In the chancel are -very elegant _sedilia_, and the floor is laid with encaustic tiles. -One of the most historically interesting remains in this church is a -brass plate in the chancel to the memory of John Beton, one of the -household and confidential servants of Mary Queen of Scots, who died at -Chatsworth while his royal mistress was a captive there, in 1570. At -the head of the plate are the arms of Beton (who was of the same family -as Cardinal David Beton, who took so prominent a part in the affairs -of Scotland in the reign of James V. and of Mary, and of James Beton, -Archbishop of St. Andrew’s), quarterly first and fourth a fesse between -three mascles; second and third, on a chevron an otter’s head, erased; -with the crest a talbot’s head. At the bottom is a figure of Beton, -in plate armour, lying dead upon a pallet, his hands by his side and -his head resting on a pillow. Of this historically interesting brass -we give a careful engraving on the opposite page. For this, with some -other illustrations, we are indebted to “The Reliquary, Archæological -Journal.” - -Another brass plate, near the chancel-arch, bears the following -inscription:— - - “Here lies ye Body of Mr. Iohn Philips, - sometime Houskeeper at Chatsworth, - who departed this life on ye 28th of May, - 1735, in ye 73rd year of his age, and 60th - of his Service in ye most Noble Family - of His Grace the Duke of - Devonshire. - Pray let my Bones together lie - Until that sad and joyfull Day, - When from above a Voice shall say, - Rise, all ye Dead, lift up your Eyes, - Your great Creator bids you rise; - Then do I hope with all ye Just - To shake off my polluted Dust, - And in new Robes of Glory Drest - To have access amongst ye Bless’d. - Which God of his infinite Mercy Grant, - For the sake & through ye Merits of my - Redeemer, Jesus Christ ye Righteous. - - Amen.” - -In the chapel alluded to is a large and remarkably fine monument, -entirely filling up its west side, and of somewhat remarkable -character. On either side is a massive pedestal, supporting a life-size -statue, and pilasters which rise behind them support a pediment for the -sculptured arms, crest, and supporters of the Earl of Devonshire. - -[Illustration: _Monumental Brass to John Beton._ - -DEO OPT MAX ET POSTERITATI SACRVM. - -Ioanni Betonio Scoto, nobilis & optimi viri Ioannis Betonii ab -Anthmwthy filio, Dauidis Betonii Illustriss. S. R. E. Cardinalis -nepoti, Iacobi Betonii Reuerendiss^s Andræe Archiepiscopi, et Regni -Scotiæ Cancellarii digniss pronepoti ab ineunte ætate in humanioribus -disciplinis, & philosophia. quo facilior ad ius Romanū (cuius ipse -Consultifs suit) aditus pateret ab optimis quibusqz preceptorib’ -& liberaliter & ingenue, educato: omnibus morum facilitate, fide -prudentia, & constantia charo: vnde a Sereniss Principe Maria Scotorū, -Gallorumqz Regina in prægustatoris primu, mox Oeconomi munus sussecto, -eiusdemqz Sereniss. Reginæ, vna cum aliis, evinculis trucu lentiss. -Tiranni, apud leuini lacus castrum liberatori fortiss quem post varias -legationes, & ad Carolum Galliarum Regem Christianiss & ad Elizabetham -Sereniss Anglorum Reginam fœliciter & non sine laude susceptas: fatis -properantibus, in suæ æiatis flore, fors aspēra immani dy-senterias -morbo, e numero viuentiu exemit Iacobus Reuerendiss. Glasquensis -Archiepiscopus, & Andreas Betonii eiusdem sereniss. Reginæ ille apud -Regem Christianiss Legatus, hic vero Oeconomus in ppetuam rei memoria, -exvolutate & pro imperio sereniss. Reginæ heræ clemētiss s^{rs} -moestiss posuerūt - - -_Obiit anno salutis 1570 Vixit annos 32 menses 7. & diem an̄i expectat -apud Chathworth in Anglia._ - - -EPITAPHIVM - -IMMATVRA TIBI LEGERVNT FILA SORORES. BETONI, VT SVMMVM INGENIVM -SVMMVMQZ PERIRET IVDICIVM, ET NOBIS IVCVNDVM NIL FORET VLTRA. - - AB] - -In the centre are two inscription-tablets, surmounted by a figure of -Fame blowing a trumpet, and on either side of these is a semicircular -arch, supported upon black marble columns, with foliated capitals. - -[Illustration: _Cavendish Monument, Edensor Church._] - -In one of these arched niches is sculptured the suit of armour, with -helmet, gauntlets, &c.—hung in the niche in natural form, but without -the body—of Henry Cavendish, of Tutbury, eldest son of Sir William -Cavendish, of Chatsworth, by his wife, who afterwards became the -celebrated Countess of Shrewsbury; in the other, in same manner, are -sculptured the earl’s empty coronet, robes of state, and sword, the -body being gone, of the first Earl of Devonshire, who was the second -son of the same Sir William Cavendish and the Countess of Shrewsbury. -In front stands an altar-tomb, on which rest the effigies of these -two brothers; that of the eldest (Henry Cavendish) represented as a -skeleton, and the other (William Cavendish, first Earl of Devonshire) -wrapped in a winding sheet, the heads being placed at opposite ends. -Over these effigies is a slab of marble, supported upon eight marble -pillars. - -[Illustration: _Tomb of the Sixth Duke of Devonshire._] - -In the churchyard are many interesting inscriptions, which the visitor -may well while away an hour or two in examining. Here, in a grassy -enclosure at the top of the churchyard, too, lies the “good duke,” -under a plain and simple coped tomb, with a foliated cross, and this -simple inscription on its south side:— - - “William Spencer Cavendish, - Sixth Duke of Devonshire. - - Born May 21, 1790. Died January 18, 1858.” - -Near this, on a coped tomb, with a plain cross standing at the head, -is the following inscription to the mother of the present Duke of -Devonshire:— - - “In the Faith and Peace of Christ, Here Resteth all that was Mortal of - Louisa Cavendish, Daughter of Cornelius, First Lord Lismore, widow of - William Cavendish, Eldest Son of George Henry Augustus, First Earl of - Burlington, and Mother of William, Seventh Duke of Devonshire. Born - August 5th, 1779. Died April 17th, 1863. - - “‘As in Adam all die, even so in Christ shall all be made alive.’—1 - Cor. xv. 22.” - -And another is thus inscribed:— - - “Henry George Cavendish. Born May 24, 1836. Died November 9, 1865.” - -In the churchyard is the heavy tomb of Sir Joseph Paxton, sometime head -gardener at Chatsworth; it bears the following inscriptions:— - - “In memory of Sir Joseph Paxton, born at Milton Bryant, Bedfordshire, - August IIIrd, MDCCCIII., died at Rockhills, Sydenham, June VIIIth, - MDCCCLXV., aged LXI. years. - - “In memory of Laura, the lamented daughter of Sir Joseph and Lady - Paxton, who departed this life, January VIIIth, MDCCCLV., aged XVI. - years. ‘Her sun is gone down while it was yet day.’—Jer. xv. 9. - - “In Memory of William, Son of Sir Joseph and Lady Paxton, who departed - this life Dec. XVIth, MDCCCXXXV., aged VII. years. ‘He shall gather - the lambs with his arm, and carry them in his bosom.’—Isaiah xl. 2.” - -Among the other inscriptions, the following are particularly worth -noticing:— - - “Of Stature Great, - Of Mind most Just, - Here lies Will Grumbold - In the Dust. - Who died 25 May, 1690.” - - “Here lieth ye body of James Brousard, who departed this life April - the 10th, 1762, aged 76 yrs. - - Also Sarah, ye wife of James Brousard, who departed this life February - ye 10th, 1765, aged 77 yrs. - - Ful forty years as Gardener to ye D of Devenshire, - to propigate ye earth with plants it was is ful desire; - but then thy bones, alas, brave man, earth did no rest afoard, - but now wee hope ye are at rest with Jesus Christ our lord.” - - “Here lieth the Body of William Dunthin, who departed this life - September the 12th, 1787, aged 21 years. - - “I was like grass, cut down in haste, for fear too long should grow. I - hope made fit in heaven to sit, so why should I not go?” - -Another, to William Mather, 1818, says:— - - “When he that day with th’ Waggon went, - He little thought his Glass was spent; - But had he kept his Plough in Hand, - He might have longer till’d the Land.” - -The CHATSWORTH HOTEL, at Edensor—the only one in the place—is -situate close outside the park gates, with an open space of ground in -front, and surrounded by the most magnificent of trees and the most -beautiful of scenery. It is fitted with every appliance for comfort; -has an excellent _cuisine_; is liberally and well conducted; has every -possible convenience of stabling and coach-houses; and is, altogether, -one of the most desirable and comfortable of hotels. - -[Illustration: _The Chatsworth Hotel, Edensor._] - -From this house, which is an excellent centre for tourists, for -enjoying the neighbourhood, and who have the magnificent park to stroll -about in at all hours, delightful excursions may be made to places in -the neighbourhood. Chatsworth is at hand; Haddon Hall is only some -three miles away for a walk, or six for a delightful drive, round by -way of Bakewell; Monsall Dale, Cressbrook Dale, Middleton Dale, and a -host of other “dales” are all within a short distance; and, indeed, a -radius of ten miles from the hotel takes in almost every well-known -beautiful or romantic spot of the district; while Buxton, with its -many attractions, and Dove-Dale, with all its beauties, are only a -little beyond this distance. It is, indeed, a district to revel in, -and the tourist who “pitches his tent” at the Chatsworth Hotel will be -conveniently placed for access to all. - -We have spoken of Edensor, which closely adjoins one of the entrances -to Chatsworth Park. Near the other lodges are the picturesque villages -of Baslow and Beeley, to which we must pay passing attention. - -BASLOW is a large and somewhat picturesque village; it lies on the -high road from Bakewell to Chesterfield, Sheffield, &c., and the river -Derwent runs through one part of it. The churchyard is skirted by the -river, and near it is a fine old bridge spanning the stream. The church -is a singular, but very picturesque old building, with a low tower and -broad spire at its north-west corner, and it possesses many features -worthy of careful examination. At Baslow are some very good inns, the -principal of which are the “Peacock” and the “Wheatsheaf.” - -BEELEY, which the visitor will pass through on his way to Chatsworth -from the Rowsley Station, is a pretty little village, with a -quaint-looking old church, an elegant Gothic parsonage-house, and many -very pretty residences. Beeley Bridge, with the public lodge near it, -we have shown in one of our engravings, from a photograph by Green. -Of other places in the neighbourhood, some of which we have already -touched upon in our account of Haddon Hall, space will not permit us to -describe. - -We take leave of “princely Chatsworth.” It is a place worthy of all -that can be said in its praise; and to its noble owner—one of the -kindliest, most enlightened, and liberal men of the age—we tender, not -only our own, but public thanks for the generous manner in which he -throws its beauties and its treasures open to the people. - - - - -INDEX. - - - Agard, Family of, 324. - - Alnwick Castle, 78 to 115; - History of, 82 to 96, 101 to 110; - Situation, 81; - Family of Percy, 84 to 88, 96 to 100; - Description, 89; - Brislee Tower, 113; - Abbey, 110; - Moor, 82; - Hulne Abbey, 112. - - Arcadia, Sidney’s, 178 to 180. - - Ault Hucknall, 119, 146 to 152; - Church, 146, 147; - Monuments, 147, 148; - Hobbes’ Tomb, 119, 148. - - Arundel, Earls of, 154 to 171. - - Arundel Castle, 153 to 171; - History of, 153 to 157; - Situation, 162; - Interior, 163 to 166; - Dungeons, 166; - Horned Owls, 166; - Keep, 167; - Bevis’s Tower, 168; - Park, 168. - - Arundel, Church of St. Martin, 168, 169; - Holy Trinity, 169, 170; - Maison Dieu, 170; - Monuments, 170, 171. - - Alton Towers, 1 to 36; - Situation, 10, 25; - History of, 9, 10; - Gardens, 27 to 30; - Description of Interior, 12 to 25; - Park and Grounds, 26, 30; - Choragic Temple, 27; - Route to, 25; - Conservatories, 28, 29; - Stonehenge, 31; - Flag Tower, 32; - Ina’s Rock, 32; - Demon’s Dale, 36. - - Alton Castle and Manor, 3 to 9, 32 to 36; - Hospital of St. John, 9, 25, 32 to 36; - Monuments in the Hospital of St. John, 35, 36; - Church, 9, 36. - - All Fools’ Day, 34. - - Albini, Family of, 154, 155. - - Armada, 56. - - Arms, Earl of Shrewsbury, 9 to 14, 16, 17; - at Alton Towers, 9, 11, 12, 14, 16 to 18, 23, 24; - Earl of Darnley, 44; - Duke of Devonshire, 126, 340; - Earl Mount Edgcumbe, 70; - at Hardwick Hall, 128 to 152; - Duke of Norfolk, 161; - Lord de L’Isle and Dudley, 184; - Earl of Warwick, 204; - Bear and Ragged Staff, 201; - Dukes of Rutland, 278; - at Haddon, 221 to 293; - Earls of Essex, 316; - Hardwick, 137. - - Ashbourne, 25. - - Avenell, Family of, 227, 272. - - - Barlow, 6. - - Baslow, 396. - - Beeley, 396. - - Beauchamp, Family of, 197 to 201, 215 to 219; - Chapel, 215 to 217; - Monuments, 215 to 218. - - Bedford, Duke of, 174. - - Beton, John, Brass to, 391. - - Bear and Rugged Staff, 201. - - Bess of Hardwick, 6, 117, 128, 130, 137 to 143, 325, 334. - - Bakewell, 282 to 292; - Church, 282 to 292; - Sepulchral Arms, 284; - Vernon Chapel, 284 to 288; - Dorothy Vernon’s Tomb, 286, 287; - Vernon Monuments, 284 to 288; - Wensley Monument, 288; - Saxon Cross, 290; - Curious Epitaphs, 290 to 292. - - Bligh, Family of, 42 to 44. - - Bohun, Family of, 172, 173, 195. - - Bolton Abbey, 119. - - Bolsover Castle, 119. - - Border Warfare, 79. - - Broke Family, 40 to 44, 51, 121. - - Brooke, Lords, 204, 205. - - Burleigh, Family of, 297, 298. - - Buckingham, Duke of, 175. - - Buxton, 222, 223, 224; - Baths, 222. - - - Capel, Family of, 312 to 316. - - Cavendish, Family of, 6, 119 to 126, 138 to 143, 149 to 152, - 324 to 396; - Life of Wolsey, 120, 121, 334; - Monuments, 391 to 393; - Overhall, 120. - - Cecil, Family of, 41, 297 to 301. - - Cassiobury, 308 to 321; - History of, 308 to 311, 317; - Situation, 308; - Park and Grounds, 316, 317, 319; - Interior, 318, 319; - Monuments, 320. - - Chatsworth, 6, 7, 117, 119, 138, 140, 322 to 396; - History of, 323; - Situation, 322, 340, 341; - Mary Queen of Scots at, 325 to 328; - Arabella Stuart born at, 328, 329; - Hobbes of Malmesbury, 329, 330; - Park, 340, 341; - Interior, 342 to 372; - Sketch Gallery, 345; - Grinling Gibbon’s Masterpiece, 347; - Sculpture, 360 to 362; - Chapel, 364 to 369; - Carvings, 366 to 369; - Watson the Carver, 368, 369; - Hood’s Titles, 370; - Roman Antiquities, 371; - Gardens and Grounds, 373 to 383, 384; - French Gardens, 374; - Waterworks, 374 to 376, 377, 381; - Cascade, 375; - Willow-tree, 377; - Great Conservatory, 379, 380; - Emperor Fountain, 381; - Royal Trees, 382, 383; - Hunting Tower, 384, 385; - Queen Mary’s Bower, 385; - Kitchen Gardens, 385 to 387; - Victoria Regia House, 385; - Hotel, Edensor, 395. - - Chesterfield, 119. - - Clifton, Lords, 41 to 44. - - Cobham, Family of, 39 to 44, 49 to 51, 121, 174. - - Cobham Hall, 37 to 53; - Situation, 38; - Park and Grounds, 45; - Interior, 46, 47; - “Three Sisters,” 47; - Village, 52; - Church, 48 to 51; - Brasses in the Church, 49 to 51; - Monuments in the Church, 49 to 51; - College, 51. - - Compton Place, 119. - - Croxden Abbey, 3, 36. - - Cothele, 63, 70 to 77; - Situation, 70, 71; - Interior, &c., 71 to 74; - Grounds, 74; - Family of Edgcumbe, 63 to 74. - - Cotton, Charles, Wonders of the Peak, 330, 331. - - - Darnley, Earls of, 41 to 44. - - De L’Isle and Dudley, Lord, 184; - Arms of, 184, 185. - - Demon’s Dale, 36. - - De Cobham, Family of, 38 to 44. - - De Verdon, Family of, 3 to 6, 9. - - De Vesci Family, 82 to 84. - - Devonport, 56. - - Derby, 224. - - Derbyshire Scenery, 116 to 119, 222 to 227. - - Devonshire, Dukes of, 119 to 126, 148 to 152, 322 to 396; - Arms of, 126, 340. - - Devonshire Scenery, 54 to 58. - - Dove-Dale, 25. - - Doveridge, 25. - - Duffield, 224; - Castle, 227. - - - Edensor, 387 to 396; - Church, 388 to 394; - Brass of John Beton, 390, 391; - Cavendish Monument, 391 to 393; - Tomb of Duke of Devonshire, 393; - Curious Epitaphs, 394; - Hotel, 395. - - Eddystone Lighthouse, 56, 57. - - Edgcumbe, Family of, 63 to 70; - Story of Sir Richard, 64; - Tombs, 66. - - Essex, Earls of, 314 to 316; - Arms of, 316. - - Exeter, 55. - - - Ferrars, 3, 4. - - Fitzalan, Family of, 156 to 158, 170, 171; - Monuments, 170, 171. - - Furnival, 3 to 5. - - - Gernon Family, 120. - - Gibbons, Grinling, 347, 366 to 369. - - Greville, Family of, 204, 205. - - Guy, Earl of Warwick, 211 to 215. - - Guy’s Cliff, 198. - - Guy’s Tower, 210. - - Guy’s Cave, 218. - - - Hardwick, Family of, 6, 7, 117, 128, 130, 137 to 143, 325, 334. - - Hardwick Hall, 6, 7, 116 to 152; - Approaches to, 117; - Situation, 127; - Exterior, 127; - Interior, 128 to 136; - Curious Table, 132; - Mary Queen of Scots’ Room, 133, 134; - Old Hall, 143; - “Giant’s Chamber,” 144; - Accounts of Building, 145, 146. - - Hartington, Marquess of, 126, 339. - - Hault Hucknall, 119, 146 to 152. - - Haddon Hall, 71, 117, 221 to 293; - Situation, 221 to 226, 235, 236; - History of, 227 to 242; - Court-yards, &c., 236; - Arrangement, 236 to 242; - Chapel, 243 to 249; - Interior, 242 to 269; - Roman Altar, 250; - Grounds, 269 to 272; - Terrace, 270; - Bowling Green, 271; - Gold Ring, 280; - Washing Tally, 281. - - Hatfield House, 294 to 307; - Situation, 294,295; - History, 294 to 297, 301; - Exterior, 301 to 303; - Interior, 303 to 306; - Park and Grounds, 306, 307. - - “Hobbes of Malmesbury,” 119, 148 to 152, 329, 330; - Memoir of, 149 to 152; - Tomb, 148; - De Mirabilibus Pecci, 329, 330. - - Howard, Family of, 158 to 161. - - Hulne Abbey, 112, 113. - - - Ina’s Rock, 32. - - - Kedleston Hall, 117. - - King of the Peak, 232 to 235, 285. - - - Leche, Family of, 323, 324. - - Leicester, Earl of, 181. - - Lisle, Viscount, 181. - - Longshawe, 282. - - - Manners, Family of, 129, 233, 234, 272 to 278; - Monument, 282. - - Mary Queen of Scots, 7, 116, 128, 140 to 143, 222, 325; - Statue of, 128; - at Chatsworth,325 to 329; - Household of, 327,328; - Bower, 385; - Monument to John Beton, 391. - - Matlock, 117, 224, 292. - - Mount Edgcumbe, Earls of, 63 to 70; - Arms, 70. - - Mount Edgcumbe, 54 to 77; - Interior, 62, 63; - Route to, 55; - Situation, 58, 59; - Park and Grounds, 58 to 62; - Lady Emma’s Cottage, 60. - - Morley, Earl of, 76. - - Morrison, Family of, 311, 312; - Monuments, 320, 321. - - Nevile, Family of, 3, 201 to 203. - - Newburgh, Family of, 195. - - Norfolk, Dukes of, 157 to 162; - Arms of, 161; - Monuments, 170, 171. - - Northumberland, Dukes of, 97 to 101; - Arms of, 101. - - - Over Haddon, 227. - - - Paxton, Sir Joseph, 385 to 387. - - Peacock at Rowsley, 225. - - Pembroke, Countess of, 180. - - Percy, Family of, 84 to 88, 96 to 101. - - Penshurst, 172 to 191; - History of, 173 to 178; - The Sidneys, 176 to 185; - Situation, 185; - Interior, 186 to 190; - Sacharissa’s Walk, 185; - Sidney’s Oak, 185; - Church, 190, 191; - Monuments, 191. - - Peveril, Family of, 227. - - Plymouth, 55; - Breakwater, 56, 57; - Eddystone Lighthouse, 56, 57, 58; - Hoe, 56; - The Tamar, 70; - Mount Edgcumbe, 54 to 57; - Cothele, 70 to 77; - Trips round, 76, 77. - - Poultney, Family of, 174. - - Pugin, 10, 23, 32; - Hoax upon, 33. - - - Rich, Lords, 203; - Family of, 203. - - Roman Altar, 250. - - Rowsley, 225, 226, 282; - Church, 282; - Monument of Lady John Manners, 282. - - Rutland, Duke of, 139, 233, 272 to 278; - Arms of, 278. - - - Sacharissa, 183. - - Saltram, 76. - - Salisbury, Marquess of, 300, 301; - Arms of, 301. - - Sheffield Manor, 140, 325. - - Shrewsbury, Earls of, 3 to 9, 14, 15, 35, 36, 138 to 143, 326 to 329; - Arms of, 9, 11 to 13; - Countess of, 6, 117, 128, 130, 137 to 143, 325, 334. - - Sidney, Family of, 172 to 191; - Sir Philip, 173, 178 to 181. - - Sidney’s Oak, 185. - - St. Loe Family, 6. - - Smithson, Family of, 97 to 101. - - Stanley, Family of, 233. - - Stanton Woodhouse, 282. - - Stuart, Lady Arabella, 328, 329. - - Sudbury, 25. - - - Talbot, Family of, 3 to 9, 16, 17, 18, 35, 36; - Monuments, 14, 35, 36. - - Tutbury, 25, 140, 227. - - - Uttoxeter, 25, 26. - - - Verdon Family, 3 to 6, 9. - - Vernon, Lords, 25, 230 to 232; - Family of, 228 to 234; - Sir George, 232, 233, 288; - Dorothy, 233, 234, 261, 262, 275, 285, 286, 289; - Monuments, 284 to 288. - - - Waller the Poet, 183. - - Warwick, Earls of, 195 to 204; - The King Maker, 201; - Tournament, 197. - - Warwick Castle, 192 to 220; - Grounds, 210 to 212; - History, 192 to 194; - Situation, 206; - Interior, 207 to 210; - Dungeons, 210; - Guy’s Tower, 210; - Warder’s Horn, 207; - Burning of, 205; - Cæsar’s Tower, 210; - Guy Relics, 212; - Legend of Guy, 211 to 215; - Guy’s Cave, 218; - Beauchamp Chapel, 215 to 217; - St. Mary’s Church, 215 to 218; - Monuments, 215; - East Gate, 219; - Herald, 198; - Vase, 211. - - Wingfield Manor, 117, 140. - - Watford Church, 320; - Monuments, 320, 321. - - Watson, Samuel, the Carver, 368, 369. - - Washing-Tally, 281. - - - END OF FIRST SERIES. - - - - - THE - STATELY HOMES OF ENGLAND - - _SECOND SERIES_ - - - - -INTRODUCTION. - - -THE noble mansions which have been chosen to form the second series -of our “Stately Homes of England” will, it gives us pleasure to know, -be found to fully bear out what was said in the Introduction to the -first volume, that England is emphatically a Kingdom of Homes, and that -these and their associations, and the love which is felt for them, are -its main source of happiness and true greatness. For assuredly those -we have now selected, like those already illustrated, are noble in -their plans, their proportions, and their architecture; stately and -magnificent in their appointments and internal arrangements; stirring -in the historical incidents with which they have been connected; -interesting from the grand old families by whom they have been, and -are still, inhabited; and more than passingly interesting from their -antiquarian character, their architectural features, their romantic -beauties, their picturesque surroundings, and the invaluable treasures -of Art enshrined within their walls. No matter in what Shire they -are situated—and we have selected them alike from east and west, -from north and south, as well as from the “lovely midlands”—these -“Homes” serve but as examples of innumerable others that, dotted over -the surface of the country, form the glory of England, and, through -their noble owners, add to the stability, the greatness, and the proud -supremacy of - - “Our own, our native land.” - -England has, indeed, reason to be proud of her Homes, and it has been -a pleasant and a loving task to describe and to illustrate some of -them in these volumes; to give records of the historical incidents with -which they have been associated; and to add the ample genealogical -notices of the families to whom they belong. - -Like those in the first volume, these notices were prepared for, -and originally appeared in, the _Art Journal_, but they have been -rearranged, here and there rewritten, and in every case materially -added to. We shall hope to follow up the present volume—the second of -the series—with two or three more of a similar character, in which -other houses, equally beautiful, equally interesting, and equally -“stately” with those we have described, will form the theme of our pen -and the subject of our pencil. - - - - -CONTENTS OF SECOND SERIES. - - - PAGE - - I.—BELVOIR CASTLE, LEICESTERSHIRE 1001 - - II.—TRENTHAM, STAFFORDSHIRE 1032 - - III.—KNOLE, KENT 1056 - - IV.—CASTLE HOWARD, YORKSHIRE 1074 - - V.—KEDLESTON HALL, DERBYSHIRE 1093 - - VI.—AUDLEY END, ESSEX 1112 - - VII.—BURLEIGH, LINCOLNSHIRE 1128 - - VIII.—HEVER CASTLE, KENT 1147 - - IX.—WESTWOOD PARK, WORCESTERSHIRE 1160 - - X.—MELBOURNE HALL, DERBYSHIRE 1186 - - XI.—SOMERLEYTON, SUFFOLK 1203 - - XII.—WILTON HOUSE, WILTSHIRE 1224 - - XIII.—RABY CASTLE, DURHAM 1242 - - XIV.—CLIEFDEN, BUCKINGHAMSHIRE 1265 - - XV.—WARNHAM COURT, SUSSEX 1280 - - XVI.—LOWTHER CASTLE, WESTMORELAND 1291 - - XVII.—CLUMBER, NOTTINGHAMSHIRE 1317 - - XVIII.—WELBECK, NOTTINGHAMSHIRE 1327 - - - - -LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. - -SECOND SERIES. - - - Page - I.—BELVOIR CASTLE. - - View from one of the Towers 1001 - Belvoir Castle from the Grantham Road 1002 - Arms of De Todeni, De Albini, and De Ros 1003 - Ancient Arms of Manners 1006 - Belvoir Castle from the North-west, showing the Grand - Entrance 1008 - Augmented Arms of Manners 1009 - Arms of Duke of Rutland 1014 - Belvoir Castle from the North-west 1015 - The Grand Corridor, or Ball-room 1021 - The Duchess’s Garden 1024 - The Statue Garden 1025 - Belvoir Castle, from the Stables, showing the Covered - Exercise-ground 1027 - The Gardener’s Cottage 1028 - - II.—TRENTHAM. - - Arms of Duke of Sutherland 1032 - Trentham, from Monument Hill, Tittensor 1034 - Statue of Sir Richard Leveson in theourtyard at - Trentham 1036 - Monument of Harriet, Duchess of Sutherland, Trentham - Church 1040 - The South Front, from the Italian Gardens 1043 - The South Front, with Grecian Temple 1045 - The Conservatory and Private Wing, South Front 1046 - The Private Conservatory 1047 - Trentham Church 1049 - The Upper Terrace Garden, Italian Garden, and Lake 1051 - The Gardener’s Cottage 1053 - Children’s Cottage and Gardens 1054 - - III.—KNOLE. - - Fire Dogs 1056 - Front View from the Park 1058 - The South Front 1062 - Knole, from the Garden 1065 - The Brown Gallery 1067 - The Cartoon Gallery 1069 - The King’s Bed-room 1070 - The Staircase 1071 - The Retainers’ Gallery 1072 - - IV.—CASTLE HOWARD. - - In the Grounds 1074 - The South Front 1079 - The Garden Front 1080 - The Mausoleum 1084 - The Dairy 1085 - The Great Hall 1086 - The Garden 1090 - The Grand Fountain 1091 - - V.—KEDLESTON HALL. - - Vase in Garden 1093 - The Hall and Bridge from the Park 1096 - Arms of Lord Scarsdale 1099 - Arms of Leke 1100 - The North Front 1102 - The Great Hall 1103 - The Saloon 1105 - The South or Garden Front 1107 - Kedleston Church, from the West 1110 - Kedleston Church, Interior 1111 - - VI.—AUDLEY END. - - The Lodge 1114 - The West Front 1115 - East Front, from the Garden 1118 - South Front 1120 - The Entrance Porch, West Front 1122 - The Temple of Concord 1124 - The Garden 1125 - - VII.—BURLEIGH. - - Arms of Marquis of Exeter 1128 - Burleigh House, from the Park 1130 - West View 1131 - North View 1134 - East View 1135 - The Quadrangle, looking West 1139 - The Great Hall 1141 - The Ancient Stone Staircase 1143 - - VIII.—HEVER CASTLE. - - Axe and Crown 1147 - Entrance Gateway, with Portcullis 1149 - Hever Castle, from the East 1153 - Hever Castle, from the West 1154 - Anne Boleyn’s Chamber 1156 - Hever Castle: the Court-yard 1157 - In the Long Gallery 1158 - - IX.—WESTWOOD PARK. - - Arms of Lord Hampton 1160 - Entrance Lodge 1161 - Westwood, from the Main Approach 1162 - The Gatehouse, as seen from the Mansion 1164 - The Entrance Porch 1165 - The Grand Staircase 1168 - The Saloon 1169 - Armorial Initial Letter 1171 - North-east View 1173 - The North Front 1177 - The Principal Front 1179 - Hampton Lovett Church 1182 - - X.—MELBOURNE HALL. - - The Fountain 1186 - Arms of Coke 1189 - Melbourne Hall, from the Garden 1191 - The Gardens and Yew Tunnel 1194 - The Gardens, as seen from the Hall 1195 - Melbourne Church, West Doorway 1198 - King’s Newton Hall as it was 1199 - Holy Well, King’s Newton 1200 - The Trent and Weston Cliff 1201 - The Trent and Donington Cliff 1202 - - XI.—SOMERLEYTON. - - Iron-work Monogram 1203 - The South Lodge 1205 - The Front 1207 - The West Front 1209 - North-east View 1211 - In the Winter Garden. Spanish Dancers, Hautmann 1213 - In the Winter Garden. Statue, Hautmann 1214 - In the Winter Garden. Statue of Hymen, Byrtrom 1215 - In the Winter Garden. Nymph at her Toilet, Haudmauer 1216 - Somerleyton Church 1221 - - XII.—WILTON HOUSE. - - Initial Letter 1224 - The Principal Front 1225 - Wilton, from the River 1230 - The Cedars 1231 - The Hall 1233 - The Drawing-room 1234 - The New Church at Wilton 1237 - Salisbury Cathedral 1240 - - XIII.—RABY CASTLE. - - South Side 1243 - North-east Side 1246 - South and East Sides 1249 - East Side 1256 - Raby Castle, from the West 1257 - Raby Castle, West Side 1262 - - XIV.—CLIEFDEN. - - Cliefden, from the Thames 1266 - The Thames at Cliefden 1268 - Cliefden: the Cottage 1269 - Cliefden: the Summer Cottage 1270 - The Principal Front 1273 - The Summer House 1276 - - XV.—WARNHAM COURT. - - Distant View from the Lake 1281 - The South or Grand Terrace 1283 - The Garden Front 1284 - The Mansion and Conservatory, from the Grounds 1285 - View from the North-west 1288 - - XVI.—LOWTHER CASTLE. - - North Front 1293 - Arms of the Earl of Lonsdale 1297 - South Front 1298 - The Sculpture Gallery 1303 - Roman Remains from Kirkby Thore and - Drumburgh 1304 - Roman Altars from Old Penrith 1306 - Roman Remains from Kirkby Thore and - Drumburgh 1307 - Roman Remains from Kirkby Thore and - Drumburgh 1308 - Roman Remains from Kirkby Thore and - Drumburgh 1309 - In the Grounds of Lowther Castle 1311 - - XVII.—CLUMBER. - - West Front 1318 - Roman Sepulchral Altars 1324 - Roman Sepulchral Altars 1325 - - XVIII.—WELBECK. - - West Front and Oxford Wing 1328 - Arms of Cavendish 1331 - Arms of Hardwick 1332 - Autograph of the Countess of Shrewsbury 1333 - Margaret (Lucas) Duchess of Newcastle 1336 - Arms of Holles 1337 - Arms of Bentinck 1338 - Arms of the Duke of Portland 1341 - Part of Welbeck in 1658 1342 - Welbeck, from the South-east 1346 - The Riding School 1348 - The Greendale Oak 1354 - - - - -BELVOIR CASTLE. - - -[Illustration: _View from one of the Towers._] - -ONE of the most majestic in character, commanding in situation, -picturesque in surroundings, and striking in its arrangements, of all -the “Stately Homes of England,” is Belvoir Castle, the grand old seat -of his Grace the Duke of Rutland. Stately among the stateliest, and -standing on an eminence in the midst of an undulating country, the one -object on which the eye rests from whichever side it is approached, -the castle commands uninterrupted views ranging over three separate -counties, and embracing within its ken such a variety of plain and -water, wood and valley, hill and meadow, as no other “Home” can boast. -Situated nearly at the junction of the three counties of Leicester, -Nottingham, and Lincoln, the panoramic view obtained from the castle -combines the characteristics of each, and its extent ranges over an -area of fifty or sixty miles in diameter—being on one side bounded by -Lincoln Minster (which is, in a clear atmosphere, distinctly visible) -and the hills beyond, although thirty miles off “as the crow flies.” -Its immediate neighbourhood, the lovely and fertile “vale of Belvoir,” -the theme of poet and prose-writer, and the delight of the painter and -lover of nature, lies immediately below, while beyond are miles of -lovely country, gloriously diversified with wood and water, and studded -at intervals with hamlets, villages, and homesteads, which add greatly -to the beauty of the scene. - -[Illustration: _Belvoir Castle from the Grantham Road._] - -A marked and peculiar character of Belvoir, and one of its greatest -charms, is that it stands in the midst of this open country, not within -the confines of its own park. There is no enclosed park; and park -palings, lodges, bolts, bars, and locks are unknown. The Duke, in this -noble mansion, rests in the midst of his immense estates, and draws no -cordon around him. The roads, right up to the very castle, are open and -free to all, and restriction is unknown. For miles in extent, and from -every side, the public may wander on foot, or ride or drive, through -the estate and up to the very doors, unmolested, and untrammelled by -fear of porters, or deterred by appliances of state or ceremony. The -stronghold of the De Todenis, the Albinis, the Especs, the De Ros’, and -the Manners’, thus nestles securely in the very heart of the country, -as does its noble owner—the descendant and representative of this long -line of illustrious men—in the hearts of his tenantry, his friends, -and all who have the privilege of knowing him. - -[Illustration: _Arms of De Todeni, De Albini, and De Ros._] - -The history of Belvoir Castle dates back to very early times, and is -invested with more than ordinary interest. Leaving the question as to -its site having originally been a Celtic stronghold taken possession -of and formed into a station, or something of the kind, by the Romans, -to be discussed elsewhere, it is sufficient for our present purpose to -say that at the Norman Conquest, Belvoir, with some fourscore manors, -was given by William the Conqueror to his faithful standard-bearer, -Robert de Todeni, who here built a castle and founded a monastery. -This monastery, situated at the foot of the castle hill, and on whose -site many interesting remains have in late years been exhumed, was -established in 1077, and was endowed with large estates; its founder, -Robert Belvidir or De Todeni, agreeing to give to it for ever a tenth -part of all the lands he might acquire by the help of God or the -grant of the King. This priory was established for four monks of the -Benedictine Order (and afterwards became a cell of the Abbey of St. -Albans), who were to pray for the souls of the King, of the Earl of -Cornwall, of Robert de Todeni, and Adelais, his wife, and of their -parents and children. Robert de Todeni died in 1088, and, with his -wife, who predeceased him, was buried in the priory at Belvoir which he -had founded. He was succeeded by his son William, who took the surname -of De Albini Brito, by whom the grants to the priory were confirmed and -increased, and he obtained for the monks a grant of a fair for eight -days in the year on the feast of St. John the Baptist. He married Maud -de St. Liz, widow of Robert de Tonebrigg, daughter of Simon, Earl of -Northampton and Huntingdon, and, dying in 1155, he, too, was buried at -Belvoir, and was succeeded by his son, William de Albini, or Meschines -(also buried here), who in turn was succeeded by his son, the third -William de Albini, whose name, in connection with King John and Magna -Charta, is matter of history. During his imprisonment at Corfe Castle -by his unforgiving king, Belvoir Castle was, at the summons of the -sovereign, surrendered into his hands. Under Henry III., Albini, being -reinstated in favour, had a chief command at the battle of Lincoln, -and took part in most of the stirring events of the period. Besides -adding to the endowments of Belvoir Priory, he founded the Hospital of -Our Lady at Newstead, for the health of the souls of himself and his -two wives, and there his body was buried in 1236, while his heart was -placed under the wall opposite the high altar at Belvoir. He married -Agatha Trusbut, for the privilege of marrying whom he gave the King 600 -marks (about £6,000 of our money). He was succeeded by his son, the -fourth William de Albini, or, as he was called, William de Belvoir, -who left no male issue, but, by his wife Albreda Biset, had an only -child, a daughter Isabel, who married Robert de Ros, Lord of Hamlake, -fifth in regular descent from Peter de Ros, who, by marriage with -Adeline, daughter of Walter Espec, became the inheritor of two princely -fortunes. Thus by the marriage of Isabel de Albini with Robert de Ros -the estates of Espec, Ros, and Albini became united. - -This Robert de Ros, after his accession to the Belvoir estates, -obtained a grant of free warren and a weekly market there from Henry -III. Later on, as one of the insurgent barons, he was imprisoned and -fined. In 1267 he raised a new embattled and fortified wall at Belvoir -Castle. He died in 1285; his body being buried at Kirkham, his bowels -before the high altar at Belvoir, and his heart at Croxton Abbey. At -the suppression of the monasteries part of the monument which had been -placed over his heart at Croxton was removed to Bottesford Church, -where it still remains in the chancel wall. His widow, Isabel, died -in 1301, and was buried at Newstead. He was succeeded by his son, -William de Ros, who became an unsuccessful competitor for the crown of -Scotland, founding his claim on his descent from his great-grandmother -Isabel, daughter to William the Lion, King of Scotland. By his marriage -with Matilda de Vaux he added to the family estates and ecclesiastical -patronage; and on his death, in 1317, was succeeded by his son, William -de Ros, who was created Lord Ros of Werke; became Baron Ros of Hamlake, -Werke, Belvoir, and Trusbut; was summoned to Parliament, second Edward -II. to sixteenth Edward III.; was made Lord High Admiral, and one of -the Commissioners to treat for peace with Robert Bruce. He died in -1342, and was succeeded by his son, William de Ros, who, after a busy -military life, fighting against the Scots, at the siege of Calais, -and against the Saracens, died on his way to the Holy Land, and was -buried abroad. He married Margaret, daughter of Ralph, Lord Nevill, who -survived him, and afterwards married Sir Henry de Percy. - -Dying without issue he was succeeded by his brother, Thomas de Ros; -who, having married, in 1359, Beatrice, daughter of the Earl of -Strafford and widow of the Earl of Desmond, was in turn followed by -his son, John de Ros, who dying without issue, was succeeded by his -brother, Sir William de Ros. Sir William was, with Walter, Bishop of -Durham, and the Earl of Northumberland, sent by King Henry IV. to -arrange a treaty of peace with Scotland. He was a favourite with the -King, who gave him many important offices; made him a K.G.; and granted -him the town of Chingford, in Essex. By his wife, Margaret, of the -family of the Earl of Arundel, Sir William had issue five sons and four -daughters. He died at Belvoir Castle in 1414, and was buried in the -choir of that priory, his monument being now at Bottesford. The next -in succession was John de Ros, son of the last named, who came to the -title and estates when only seventeen years of age. He was killed along -with the Duke of Clarence and others in 1421; and, dying without issue, -had for successor his brother, Sir Thomas de Ros, who married Eleanor, -daughter of Richard de Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick, by whom he had issue -three sons, of whom his successor, Thomas, Lord Ros, was the eldest, -and who, at his father’s death in 1431, was only four years of age. - -This nobleman, Thomas, Baron Ros of Hamlake, Trusbut, and Belvoir, was -by the King put into full possession of his father’s estates when only -eighteen years of age. He married Philippa, eldest daughter of John -de Tiptoft, by whom he had issue one son and four daughters. For his -fidelity to the House of Lancaster in the Wars of the Roses, he was, -with his adherents, attainted in Parliament in 1461, and is said by -Rapin to have been beheaded. His estates were confiscated, and given -to various adherents of the House of York; Lord Hastings receiving -Belvoir and its members. By him Belvoir Castle was utterly despoiled, -he carrying away the lead from the roofs to Ashby-de-la-Zouch, to use -in his own castle there, and rendering the place no better than a ruin. - -The next in succession, Edmund, Lord Ros, was by Henry VII. (who had -united the rival houses) restored to his father’s state and dignity; -the attainder was removed; and the Belvoir and other estates returned -to him. He died in 1508, at his house of Elsinges, at Enfield (in the -church at which, place is a noble monument erected to his memory), -without issue, and his estates were divided between his sisters and -co-heiresses—viz. Eleanor, married to Sir Robert Manners, Knight; -and Isabel, married to Sir Thomas Lovel. Belvoir, with Hamlake in -Yorkshire, and Orston in Nottinghamshire, being the portion of the -elder sister, Eleanor, thus passed into the hands of the family of -Manners, in whom it has remained in unbroken succession to the present -hour. The manor of Elsinges, which had passed to Sir Thomas Lovel, -as part of his wife’s portion, was bequeathed by him to the Earl of -Rutland. - -[Illustration: _Ancient Arms of Manners._] - -This Sir Robert Manners, who, as we have said, acquired Belvoir through -his marriage with one of the co-heiresses of the last Lord de Ros, was -descended from a long line of Manners’ of Northumberland. The earliest -of these of whom there is direct evidence was Sir Robert Manners, lord -of the manor of Ethale, in Northumberland, from whom descended another -Sir Robert, who married Philippa, daughter of Sir Bartholomew de Mont -Bouchier, by whom he had issue a son, also named Robert, who married -Hawise, daughter of Robert, Baron de Muschamp, in the reign of Henry -I. Their great-grandson, another Sir Robert Manners, married Agnes, -daughter of Sir David Coupland. Their son, Sir Robert, had issue by his -wife, Joan de Heton, four sons, three of whom dying without issue, the -second son, William Manners, inherited the estates. He married Ellen, -or Janetta, daughter of David Bagster, of Derby, by whom he had a son, -Sir Robert Manners. - -This Sir Robert was returned, in the seventeenth year of Edward III., -as one of the principal persons in the county of Northumberland, and -was entitled to bear arms by descent. In the first year of Edward’s -reign, being governor of Norham Castle, he distinguished himself by -his successful defence of that stronghold against the Scots, who, -“despising King Edward’s youth, on the very night of that day on -which King Edward was crowned, intended to take Norham Castle by -surprise; and so well managed their design that about sixteen of them -had already mounted the walls. But the captain, Sir Robert Manners, -being warned of the matter beforehand by one of his garrison, who -was a Scotsman, had so well prepared to receive them, that of those -who had mounted he took five or six, and put the rest to the sword, -their companions below, upon this disappointment, retiring.” In the -next year he was constituted one of the “conservators of the truce -made with the Scots for all hostilities to cease.” Soon afterwards -he was made sheriff of the county of Selkirk, and appointed to keep -and defend the forts of Selkirk and Ettrick, &c. In the fourteenth of -the same reign he represented Northumberland in Parliament, and again -subdued Scotch incursions. Soon afterwards he obtained a license from -the King “to strengthen and embattle his dwelling-house at Ethale, -in Northumberland, with a wall made of stone and lime, and to hold -the same to himself and his heirs for ever.” The next year he was -constituted one of the commissioners to treat with David Bruce and his -adherents for a peace, and subsequently was made Lord of the Marches. -At the battle of Neville’s Cross in 1346, under Queen Philippa, in -which the Scottish king was taken prisoner, Sir Robert displayed great -valour, and was intrusted to keep charge of the prisoners, and deliver -them to the Constable at the Tower of London. He died in 1355, leaving -his son and heir, John de Manners (by his wife, Aliva, or Alice, -daughter of Henry Strather), only one year and three weeks old. - -[Illustration: _Belvoir Castle from the North-west, showing the Grand -Entrance._] - -This John Manners received the honour of knighthood, and married Alice, -widow of William de Whitchester; and, dying in 1402, was succeeded by -his son, Sir John Manners, who was sheriff of Northumberland, and, with -his son John, was accused of the murder of William Heron and Robert -Atkinson, or Akyman. They were prosecuted by Sir Robert de Umphreville, -and Isabel, widow of William Heron, and were ordered to “cause 500 -masses to be sung for the health of the soul of the same William -Heron within one year then next ensuing, and pay unto Sir Robert de -Umphreville, and Isabel, to the use of the said Isabel and her children -by Heron, 200 marks.” He was succeeded by his son Robert, who married -Joan, daughter of Sir Robert Ogle, and had issue by her, with others, a -son, Robert, by whom he was succeeded. This was the Sir Robert Manners -who married Eleanor, daughter of Thomas, Lord Ros, as already shown. -Sir Robert Manners had issue by his wife, Eleanor Ros, three daughters, -who each married into the family of Fairfax, and two sons. The elder -of these sons was Sir George Manners, who, on the death of his mother, -became Lord Ros or Roos, and was also lineal heir to the baronies of -Vaux, Trusbut, and Belvoir. - - * * * * * - -[Illustration: _Augmented Arms of Manners._] - -MARRYING Anne, only daughter and heiress of Sir Thomas St. Leger, -by his wife Anne, daughter of Richard, Duke of York, and sister to -King Edward IV., and widow of John Holland, Duke of Exeter, this lady -brought royal blood into the family. By her Sir George had a numerous -family, the eldest of whom, Thomas, succeeded him. - -This Sir Thomas Manners, on the death of his father, became thirteenth -Lord Ros, of Hamlake, and Baron Trusbut, Riveaulx, and Belvoir. He was -with Henry VIII. and his queen at the celebrated interview between that -monarch and the King of France at Guisnes, and in the same reign was -made Warden of the East Marches, and had many other honours granted -him. In the seventeenth year of the same monarch he was created Earl -of Rutland—“a title which none but royal family had ever borne, and -by reason of his descent from the sister of King Edward IV. had an -augmentation to his ancient arms.” The old arms were—_or_ two bars -_azure_, and a chief _gules_; which chief was augmented thus quarterly -_azure_ and _gules_, in the first and fourth two fleurs-de-lis and in -the second and third a lion passant guardant, all _or_. He was also -installed a Knight of the Garter. A few years later this nobleman -was present at the second interview between Henry VIII. and Francis -I.; he was also present at the marriage of his sovereign with the -ill-fated Anne Boleyn; and, later on, attended Anne of Cleves to -England, and was made her chamberlain. He was made Chief Justice in -Eyre of all the King’s lands north of the Trent, and obtained grants -of the manors of Muston, Waltham, Croxton, Upwell, Bilsdale, Helmsley, -Outwell, Elm, Emneth, Branston, &c., and lands belonging to several -dissolved monasteries. He rebuilt Belvoir Castle, and removed many of -the monuments from the dissolved priories of Croxton and Belvoir to -Bottesford, where he himself was buried in 1543. His lordship—who took -part in most of the events of this stirring reign, and held numerous -important offices—married twice: first, Elizabeth, daughter of Sir -Robert Lovel; and second, Eleanor, daughter of Sir William Paston, by -the latter of whom only he had issue. To the eldest and second of that -issue we now refer. - -The eldest son, Henry Manners, succeeded his father, in 1543, as second -Earl of Rutland. He continued the rebuilding of Belvoir Castle, and was -made Constable of Nottingham Castle, Chief Justice in Eyre of Sherwood -Forest, &c. He was married twice: first, to Margaret, daughter of the -fourth Earl of Westmoreland, by whom he had issue; and second, to -Bridget, daughter of Lord Hussey, by whom he had no children. He was -succeeded by his eldest son, Edward Manners, as third Earl of Rutland, -who, dying without male issue, was succeeded by his brother, John -Manners (the second son of the second earl), as fourth Earl of Rutland. -This nobleman married Elizabeth, daughter of Francis Charlton, of -Apsley, by whom he had issue, with others, three sons—Roger Manners, -Sir Francis Manners, and Sir George Manners—who successively became -fifth, sixth, and seventh Earls of Rutland. All these dying without -surviving male issue, the title passed to the descendants of the second -son of the first Earl, as we shall now show. - -Sir John Manners, second son of the first Earl of Rutland, and -great-grandson of the sister of King Edward IV., became, before he -was knighted, attached to Dorothy Vernon, the youngest daughter and -co-heiress of Sir George Vernon of Haddon Hall, known as “the King of -the Peak,” and so effectually wooed and won her, that he at length -carried her off on horseback into his own county of Leicester, and -there married her. By this marriage Haddon Hall, and the Derbyshire -property of the “King of the Peak,” passed into the family of Manners. -Sir John Manners had issue by his wife, Dorothy Vernon, three sons—Sir -George, who succeeded him; John, who died at the age of fourteen; -and Sir Roger, of Whitwell; and one daughter, Grace, who married Sir -Francis Fortescue, of Salden. Sir George Manners, their son, married -Grace, daughter of Sir Henry Pierrepoint, and sister to the Earl -of Kingston, by whom he had issue, with others, John Manners, his -eldest son, who not only succeeded him, but also succeeded his cousin -George, seventh Earl of Rutland, in his title and estates, and thus -became eighth Earl of Rutland. He married Frances, daughter of Edward, -Lord Montague of Boughton, by whom he had issue four sons and seven -daughters. He was sheriff of Derbyshire in the ninth and eleventh years -of Charles I., and also represented that county in Parliament. His -lordship was attached to the Parliamentary interest during the civil -wars, and was one of the twenty-two peers who remained at Westminster -when the King summoned both Houses to attend him at Oxford. As a -consequence, his castle of Belvoir was seized by the Royalists, and -was held by them and Sir Gervase Lucas, and here the King frequently -resided. It was finally surrendered to the Parliamentarians in January, -1645-6. In 1649 the castle was demolished, by consent of the Earl, who -soon afterwards set about rebuilding it, which he completed in 1668. -During this time the Earl lived principally at Haddon Hall, where he -died in 1679, and was succeeded by his third and only surviving son, -John Manners, as ninth Earl of Rutland. - -This nobleman was born in 1638, and, in 1679 was created a peer in his -own right by the title of Baron Manners of Haddon; and in September of -the same year, his father dying, he became Earl of Rutland. When twenty -years of age he had married the Lady Anne Pierrepoint, daughter of the -Marquis of Dorchester, from whom he was afterwards divorced; and he -married, secondly, Lady Diana Bruce, widow of Sir Seymour Shirley, and -daughter of the Earl of Aylesbury, who died in child-bed. His lordship -married, thirdly, Catherine, daughter of Baptist Noel, Viscount Camden, -by whom only he had surviving issue. In 1703 the Earl was raised to the -highest dignity in the realm, by the titles of Marquis of Granby and -Duke of Rutland. He died in January, 1710-11, aged seventy-three, and -was succeeded by his only surviving son, John Manners. - -John, second Duke of Rutland, when scarcely seventeen years of age, -was married to Katherine, second daughter of Lord William Russell, -who was beheaded in 1683. He then bore the title of Lord Roos; and -the wedding festivities seem, judging from some curious letters still -extant concerning them, to have been of the most lavishly extravagant -character. This lady, who was sister to the Duchess of Devonshire and -to the Duke of Bedford, gave birth to five sons and four daughters, and -died in child-bed in 1711. The Duke married, secondly, Lucy, daughter -of Lord Sherard, and sister of the Earl of Harborough, by whom also he -had issue six sons and two daughters. His grace died in 1721, and was -succeeded, as third Duke of Rutland, by his eldest son, John Manners. -This nobleman, who was born in 1696, married, in 1717, Bridget, only -daughter and heiress of Robert Sutton, Lord Lexington (an alliance that -gave him a large accession of estates), by whom he had issue thirteen -children, nearly all of whom died young. He it was who built the -hunting-seat at Croxton, and made many improvements at Belvoir Castle. -He was the last of the family who made Haddon Hall a residence. The -estates of Lord Lexington having been settled upon the younger branch -of the family, the second and surviving sons, successively, took, by -Act of Parliament, the additional surname of Sutton, and thus founded -the family of Manners-Sutton. - -The Duke, who was familiarly known as “Old John of the Hill,” dying -in 1779, was succeeded by his grandson, Charles Manners, son of the -celebrated Marquis of Granby, Commander-in-chief of the British forces -in Germany, and Master of the Ordnance, who died during his father’s -lifetime. Charles, fourth Duke of Rutland, married Mary Isabella, -daughter of Charles Noel, Duke of Beaufort, by whom he had issue four -sons—viz. Lord John Henry (who succeeded him), Lord Charles Henry -Somerset, Lord Robert William, and Lord William Robert Albini; and two -daughters—viz. the Lady Elizabeth Isabella, married to Richard Norman, -Esq., and Lady Catherine Mary, married to Lord Forester. His Grace died -while holding office as Lord-Lieutenant of Ireland, and was succeeded -by his eldest son— - -John Henry Manners, as fifth Duke of Rutland, who married Elizabeth, -daughter of the Earl of Carlisle, and by her had issue six sons and -five daughters. The sons were—Lord George Henry Manners, to whom King -George III. stood sponsor in person, but who died in infancy; Lord -George John Frederick Manners, to whom the Prince Regent and H.R.H. the -Duke of York stood sponsors in person, but who also died in infancy; -Lord Charles Cecil John Manners (the present Duke of Rutland); Lord -Adolphus Edward Manners, who died in infancy: Lord John James Robert -Manners, M.P., the present eminent statesman and man of letters; and -Lord George John Manners, M.P., who married in 1855 the Lady Adeliza -Matilda Howard, daughter of the thirteenth Duke of Norfolk, and died in -1875. The five daughters were—the Lady Caroline Isabella Manners, who -died in infancy; the Lady Elizabeth Frederica Manners, now the widow -of Andrew Robert Drummond, Esq.; the Lady Emmeline Charlotte Elizabeth -Manners (deceased), married to the Hon. Charles Stuart Wortley; the -Lady Katherine Isabella Manners (deceased), married to Earl Jermyn; -and the Lady Adeliza Gertrude Elizabeth Manners, married to the Rev. -Frederick John Norman, Rector of Bottesford. - -The present noble head of the House of Manners is, as we have just -stated, his Grace Charles Cecil John Manners, the sixth Duke of -Rutland, Marquis of Granby, fourteenth Earl of Rutland, Baron Manners -of Haddon, Baron Ros of Hamlake, Baron Trusbut, Riveaulx, and Belvoir, -K.G., &c., the “King of Belvoir,” as he may not inaptly be called, for -his is a regal residence, and he reigns in the hearts of the people -around him. He is, therefore, the direct descendant and representative -in unbroken succession of the grand old standard-bearer of William -the Conqueror, Robert de Todeni, and of the families of De Albini, -Espec, De Ros, and Manners; and by equally direct descent he has -royal blood coursing through his veins. His grace was born in 1815, -and was educated at Eton and at Trinity College, Cambridge, where -he took his M.A. degree in 1835; was M.P. for Stamford from 1837 to -1852, and from that time to his accession to the titles in 1867, for -North Leicestershire; and he was a Lord of the Bed-chamber to the late -Prince Consort. His grace is not married, the heir to his titles, -estates, and revenues being his brother, Lord John Manners, who is a -worthy representative of the long and illustrious line from which he -has sprung. The Duke is patron of twenty-four livings, of which one -is in Rutland, fifteen in Leicestershire, two in Lincolnshire, two in -Cambridgeshire, two in Nottinghamshire, and two in Derbyshire. His -seats are—Belvoir Castle, in Leicestershire; Haddon Hall and Longshawe -Lodge, in Derbyshire; and Cheveley Park, in Cambridgeshire. - -Lord John Manners was born in 1818, and in 1851 married Louisa -Catherine, daughter of Colonel Marlay, by whom he had issue one son -(the present Henry John Brinsley Manners), and another who died in -infancy. This lady, dying in 1854, was buried at Rowsley, where -a magnificent monument—one of the happiest efforts of W. Calder -Marshall—has been erected to her memory. His lordship married -secondly, in 1862, Janetta, eldest daughter of Thomas Hughan, Esq., by -whom he has issue several children. Lord John Manners has held many -important offices. He was sworn a Privy Councillor, and appointed First -Commissioner of Works and Buildings, which office he held many years, -and in 1874 was appointed Postmaster-General. - -[Illustration: _Arms of Duke of Rutland._] - -The arms of the Duke of Rutland are—_or_, two bars, _azure_; augmented -by a chief, quarterly, first and fourth _azure_, two fleurs-de-lis, -_or_ (France), second and third _gules_, a lion passant guardant, _or_ -(England). Crest, on a chapeau, _gules_, turned up, _ermine_, a peacock -in pride, _proper_. Supporters, two unicorns, _argent_, horns, manes, -tufts, and hoofs, _or_. Motto, “Pour y parvenir.” The ancient arms of -Manners, before the augmentation, were, _or_, two bars, _azure_, and a -chief, _gules_. - -Belvoir Castle, as it now stands, is an erection of the present -century, built upon Norman foundations. As we have already stated, the -first castle was built by Robert de Todeni, standard-bearer to William -the Conqueror, and considerably extended by his successors. In 1461, -or thereabouts, it was despoiled (on the attainder of its noble owner) -by the Lord Hastings, to whom it had been granted by the King. “The -timber of the roof, being” by him “despoiled of the lead with which it -was covered, rotted away; and the soil between the walls at the last -grew full of elders, in which state the castle remained till it was -partially rebuilt by the first Earl of Rutland, and completed by the -second.” On the dissolution of the monasteries, many of the monuments -of the Albini and Ros families were, by order of the first Earl, and -later, by his successor, removed from Belvoir Priory to Bottesford -Church, and others were also brought to the same place from Croxton -Abbey. He commenced the rebuilding of the castle, which was completed -by his son in 1555, “making it a nobler structure than it was before.” - -[Illustration: _Belvoir Castle from the North-west._] - -In 1619 the singular trial of an old woman, named Joan Flower, of -Belvoir, and her two daughters, Margaret and Philippa, for sorcery, and -causing the deaths of the two sons of the Earl of Rutland, took place, -and resulted in the execution of the two younger “witches,” the old -“monstrous malicious woman,” or “devil incarnate,” as she was styled, -having died as she was being taken to gaol; and the destruction of her -cat, “Rutterkin.” The two sons, whose deaths were laid to the charge -of these miserable victims of superstition, were Henry, Lord Ros, and -Francis Manners, his brother, sons of Francis, sixth Earl of Rutland, -by his second wife, Cecilia, daughter of Sir John Tufton, and widow -of Sir Henry Hungerford. That Joan Flower, aided by her profligate -daughters, did cause the deaths of the two children, and attempt -the lives of the Earl and Countess, probably by poison, seems most -probable, and they were justly punished. The following account of this -singular transaction, printed in 1619, describes— - - “Joan Flower as a monstrous woman, full of oaths, curses, and - imprecations; and for any thing they saw by her, a plain atheist. - Besides, of late days, her very countenance was estranged, her eyes - very fiery and hollow, her speech fell and envious, her demeanour - strange and exotic, and her conversation sequestered; so that the - whole course of her life gave great suspicion that she was a - notorious witch; yea, some of her neighbours dared to affirm that - she dealt with familiar spirits, and terrified them all with curses - and threatening of revenge, if there were never so little cause of - displeasure and unkindness. Concerning Margaret, the daughter, that - she often resorted from the castle to her mother, bringing such - provision as they thought was unbefitting for a servant to purloin; - and coming at such unseasonable hours that they could not but - conjecture some mischief between them, and that their extraordinary - riot and expenses tended both to rob the lady and to maintain certain - deboist and base company, which frequented this Joan Flower’s house, - the mother, and especially the youngest daughter. Concerning Philippa, - that she was leudly transported with the love of one Thomas Simpson, - who presumed to say that she had bewitched him, for he had no power - to leave her, and was, as he supposed, marvellously altered both in - mind and body, since her acquainted company. These complaints began - many years before either their conviction or public apprehension. - Notwithstanding, such was the honour of this earl and his lady; such - was the cunning of this monstrous woman, in observation towards them; - such was the subtlety of the devil, to bring his purposes to pass; - such was the pleasure of God, to make trial of his servants; and such - was the effect of a damnable woman’s wit and malicious envy, that - all things were carried away in the smooth channel of liking and - good entertainment, on every side, until the earl refused to give - that credence to her, on some complaint preferred, which he had been - accustomed to give; and the countess discovering in the daughter - Margaret some indecencies of her life, and neglect of her business, - discharged her from lying any more in the castle; dismissing her with - handsome presents, but commanding her to go home. This inflamed the - mother with hatred and rancour towards the earl, and his family. - - “When the devil perceived the inficious disposition of this wretch, - and that she, and her daughters, might easily be made instruments - to enlarge his kingdom; and be, as it were, the executioners of his - vengeance, not caring whether it lighted upon innocents, or no; he - came more near unto them, and in plain terms, to come quickly to the - purpose, offered them his service, and that in such a manner, as they - might easily command what they pleased; for he would attend you in - such pretty forms of dog, cat, or rat, that they should neither be - terrified, nor any body else suspicious of the matter. Upon this, they - agree, and (as it should seem) give away their souls to the service of - such spirits, as he had promised them; which filthy conditions were - ratified with abominable kisses, and an odious sacrifice of blood, - not leaving out certain charms and conjurations, with which the devil - deceived them, as though nothing could be done without ceremony, - and a solemnity of orderly ratification. By this time doth sathan - triumph, and goeth away satisfied to have caught such fish in the net - of his illusions: by this time, are these women devils incarnate, and - grow proud again in their cunning and artificial power, to do what - mischief they listed. By this time, they have learnt the manner of - incantations, spells, and charms. By this time, they kill what cattle - they list; and under the cover of flattery and familiar entertainment, - keep hidden the stinging serpent of malice, and a venomous inclination - to mischief. By this time, is the earl and his family threatened, - and must feel the burthen of a terrible tempest, which, by these - women’s devilish devices, fell upon him; he neither suspecting nor - understanding the same. By this time, both himself and his honourable - countess, are many times subject to sickness and extraordinary - convulsions; which they, taking as gentle corrections from the hand of - God, submit with quietness to his mercy, and study nothing more than - to glorify their Creator in heaven, and bear his crosses on earth. - - “At last, as malice increased in these damnable women, so his family - felt the smart of their revenge and inficious disposition; for his - eldest son, Henry, Lord Rosse, sickened very strangely, and after - awhile, died. His next, named Francis, Lord Rosse accordingly, was - severely tormented by them, and most barbarously, and inhumanly - tortured by a strange sickness. Not long after, the Lady Catherine was - set upon by their dangerous and devilish practices; and many times - in great danger of life, through extreme maladies and unusual fits, - nay, (as it should seem, and they afterwards confessed) both the earl - and his countess were brought into their snares, as they imagined, - and indeed determined to keep them from having any more children. Oh - unheard of wickedness and mischievous damnation! Notwithstanding all - this, did the noble earl attend his majesty, both at Newmarket, before - Christmas; and at Christmas, at Whitehall; bearing the loss of his - children most nobly; and little suspecting that they had miscarried - by witchcraft, or such like inventions of the devil; until it pleased - God to discover the villanous practices of these women, and to command - the devil from executing any further vengeance on innocents, but leave - them to their shames, and the hands of justice, that they might not - only be confounded for their villanous practices, but remain as a - notorious example to all ages, of his judgment and fury. Thus were - they apprehended, about Christmas, and carried to Lincoln gaol; after - due examination, before sufficient justices of the peace, and discreet - magistrates, who wondered at their audacious wickedness. But Joan - Flower, the mother, before her conviction, (as they say,) called for - bread and butter, and wished it might never go through her, if she - were guilty of that whereupon she was examined; so, mumbling it in her - mouth, never spake more words after; but fell down and died, as she - was carried to Lincoln gaol, with a horrible excruciation of soul and - body, and was buried at Ancaster. - - “When the earl heard of their apprehension, he hasted down with - his brother, Sir George, and sometimes examined them himself, and - sometimes sending them to others; at last, left them to the trial - of law, before the judges of assize at Lincoln; and so they were - convicted of murder, and executed accordingly, about the eleventh of - March, to the terror of all beholders as example of such dissolute and - abominable creatures.” - -On the stately monument of the Earl at Bottesford the death of these -two sons is thus alluded to:—“In 1608 he married the Lady Cecelia -Hungerf’rd, daughter to the Hon’ble Knight, Sir John Tufton, by whom he -had two sonnes, both which dyed in their infancy, by wicked practice -and sorcerye.” - -In the civil wars Belvoir Castle was taken by the Royalist party -in 1642, and placed under command of Colonel Lucas. In 1645 the -King himself was there. In the same year Prince Rupert and Prince -Maurice were at Belvoir. Soon afterwards it was besieged by the -Parliamentarians; the outworks and stables, which had been fortified, -were taken by storm; the entire village of Belvoir was demolished; and -on the 3rd of February, 1646, the castle, with its appurtenances, was, -in pursuance of terms of capitulation, surrendered to the Parliament, -who immediately appointed Captain Markham as its governor. Shortly -afterwards the castle was disgarrisoned and restored to its owner, -the Earl of Rutland. In 1649 the Council of State reported “their -resolution for demolishing the castle; which the Earl of Rutland was -content with,” and it was accordingly demolished, the Earl receiving a -miserable pittance by way of compensation, and taking up his residence -at Haddon Hall. About 1662 the Earl appears to have commenced the -rebuilding of the castle, which was completed in 1668. In 1801 the -then Duke of Rutland, father of the present duke, who had, during his -minority, conceived the idea of rebuilding and extending the castle, -began to carry out his design by pulling down the south and west fronts -next to the court-yard, and continued rebuilding under Wyatt till 1816, -by which time the south-west and south-east parts were completed, and -the Grand Staircase and Picture Gallery in the north-west front were -nearly finished. In that year a fire broke out in the castle, by which -the north-east and north-west fronts were entirely destroyed. By that -fire a large number of valuable paintings, estimated at nearly eleven -thousand pounds in value, were totally destroyed. Among these were no -less than nineteen by Sir Joshua Reynolds (including the “Nativity” -and a number of family portraits); and many by Rubens, Vandyke, Carlo -Maratti, Lely, Domenichino, Rembrandt, Velasquez, Titian, Poussin, -West, and others. Fortunately, although five children of the Duke and -Duchess (who themselves were at Cheveley), and all the household were -sleeping in the castle, no loss of life occurred. In March, 1817, the -Duke commenced rebuilding the castle, the architect being the Rev. Sir -John Thoroton, of Bottesford, to whose good taste and that of the Duke -and his amiable duchess, are due the fine proportions and the majestic -character of the building as it now stands. - -Belvoir has often been visited by royalty. James I. and Charles I. -both stayed there, and in 1813, the Prince Regent, afterwards George -IV., and the Duke of York, spent several days there. In 1839 the -Dowager Queen Adelaide remained there for nearly a week, and in 1843 -our present beloved Queen Victoria, with the Prince Consort, the Queen -Dowager, the Duke of Wellington, and others, visited the Duke, and -remained his guests for four days. In 1866 their Royal Highnesses the -Prince and Princess of Wales visited Belvoir, and the Prince again -remained there in 1873. Other members of the royal family have also -been received within its walls. - -The principal apartments of the castle are, by kind permission of the -Duke, shown to visitors, and the surrounding grounds are literally, as -we have before said, open to all, “without let or hindrance.” - -Passing up the steep ascent from near the cosy inn (on, or closely -adjoining to, the site of the old priory), the visitor, if on foot, -wends his way along the path among magnificent forest trees, and up -a flight of stone steps to the basement story of the castle, where, -in the solid masonry from which the superstructure rises, are the -workshops of the artisan retainers of the family; and from hence by a -rising pathway to the bastion, mounted with cannon, which gives an air -of baronial importance to the place. If the visitor ride or drive, the -ascent is somewhat more circuitous, but the carriage-way leads to the -same point—the Grand Entrance to the Castle. - -The Grand Entrance, which is shown to the spectator’s left in our -general views from the north-west, opens from an advanced groined -porch, into which carriages drive from one side, and out at the other, -massive doors enclosing them while visitors alight. Over the doors are -armorial bearings of the family and its alliances. From the porch the -entrance doorway opens into the groined entrance passage, or corridor, -decorated with stands of arms, banners (among which is the one borne by -the present Duke of Rutland at the funeral of the Duke of Wellington), -and military trophies, which leads to the Guard-room, or Great Hall -of the mansion. This noble room, which has a groined ceiling, and a -mosaic floor of black and white marble and Nottinghamshire freestone, -bears in recesses and arcades on its walls groups of arms and armour, -trophies of war, and other appropriate decorations; and in two glazed -recesses a number of relics of the great Marquis of Granby, and of -his brilliant military achievements, and his well-earned decorations. -Besides many other objects of peculiar interest in this room are two -tables made from remarkable deposits, of eleven years’ formation, in -the wooden water-pipes of the Blithe Mine in Derbyshire; a model of the -old castle; standards, arms, and armour from the field of Waterloo; a -Chinese junk; and some good armour. - -Opposite the entrance are the Grand Staircase and the Guard-room -Gallery. In the windows of the latter are finely executed stained-glass -figures (by Wyatt) of Robert de Todeni, William de Albini, Walter -Espec, and Robert de Ros, with their armorial insignia. From the -landing at the head of the Guard-room Staircase, which contains -full-length portraits of Queen Anne and George Prince of Denmark, -access is gained to the Grand Staircase leading to the principal -apartments; the walls of the staircase itself being hung with -full-length paintings of the first eight Earls of Rutland, with their -armorial bearings within the archways. The ceiling is richly groined. - -The Regent’s Gallery, so called from the Prince Regent (George IV.), -for whose use it was fitted up on his visit to Belvoir in 1813, is one -of the main features of the castle. It is a noble apartment, 128 feet -long by 18 feet wide, with a central bow, formed by the central tower, -of 36 feet wide. At one end is Nollekens’ fine bust of George IV., and -at the other the equally fine bust of the late estimable duke, while -other parts of the room are adorned with corresponding sculptures -of the late Duchess of Rutland, the Marquis of Granby, Lord Robert -Manners, Pitt, Cromwell, William III., George II., Earl of Mansfield, -Duke of Somerset, Earl of Chatham, Admiral Keppel, and others. One -striking feature of this gallery is the Gobelins tapestry (eight -pieces) which adorns the walls. It is in perfect preservation, and -represents scenes in the story of Don Quixote from designs by Coypel, -and appear to have been made in 1770. The walls are also adorned -by many family portraits and other paintings by Reynolds, Hoppner, -Kneller, Smirke, Lely, Bishop, Zucchero, Stothard, and others. The -appointments of this splendid room are arranged with perfect taste, and -it is filled with objects of interest and beauty; one object that often -attracts attention being a carved chair, bearing an inscription showing -that it was made, as is also one belonging to the Queen, from the wood -of the tree at La Haye Sainte, against which the Duke of Wellington -took up his station at the battle of Waterloo. The opposite end of the -Regent’s Gallery to that at which the visitor enters from the Grand -Staircase is one gigantic mirror filling the whole space, and thus, -in appearance, giving it a double length. From this end one doorway -leads to the private gallery of the chapel, and another opens into the -library. - -The Library is entirely of oak, the ceiling divided into compartments, -with carved bosses at the intersections, and armorial bearings -decorating other parts. Over the fire-place Grant’s fine portrait of -the late duke, “presented to his grace as a token of affection and -esteem by his tenantry, 27th February, 1856,” is placed, and forms a -pleasant feature in the room. The collection of books is, as is natural -to expect, of the most choice and costly kind, many of the literary -treasures being priceless gems of past ages. Among these are several -curious and valuable MS. rarities and sketches by the old masters. - -The Picture Gallery, a noble apartment of admirable proportions, has -a coved ceiling, rising from a cornice richly ornamented in gold and -white, with figures and foliage in bold relief. The collection of -pictures in this gallery, some two hundred in number, is remarkably -fine and choice, and contains many notable examples of the best and -most reputed masters—Murillo, Rubens, Teniers, Gerard Douw, Rembrandt, -Claude, Gaspar Poussin, Parmigiano, Carlo Dolce, Berghem, Carracci, -Guido, Vandyke, Holbein, Bassano, Paul Veronese, Bronzino, Van der -Heyden, Netscher, Van der Velde, Reynolds, Jansen, Ruysdael, Correggio, -Albert Dürer, Dekker, Schalken, Spagnoletto, Caravaggio, Wouvermans, -Cuyp, and a host of others. - -[Illustration: _The Grand Corridor, or Ball-room._] - -The Duchess’s Boudoir, a lovely room, commanding an almost enchanting -view of the grounds and distant country, was the favourite apartment -of the late duchess, and remains as left by her. Like the other private -rooms, passages, and corridors, it contains many genuine pictures of -note as well as family portraits. - -The Grand Corridor, or Ball-room, which, seen from the landing of the -staircase, is shown in the engraving on the preceding page, is one -of the most striking features of the interior of the castle. It is -of Gothic design, the whole being of stone, and copied from various -parts of Lincoln Cathedral. It is lit by nine windows in length, with -stained-glass armorial decorations, and has an elegant groined ceiling, -with carved bosses at the intersections; and the walls are arcaded, -and contain full-length life-size and other portraits of the present -noble duke (two) by Grant; the late Lady John Manners, by Buckner; Lord -Robert Manners, by Reynolds; and several others. - -The Queen’s Sitting-room, or Green Assembling-room, in the Staunton -Tower, besides being an elegant apartment, commands a magnificent view -of the charming grounds and the distant country, including Croxton with -the Duke’s Deer Park, Woolsthorpe, Harlaxton, the Kennels, and the -Lake. Adjoining this are the Chinese Rooms—a suite of bed and dressing -rooms, so called from the style of their furniture and papering—which -were occupied by our beloved Queen in 1843. - -The Grand Dining-room has a richly panelled ceiling of white and gold, -and contains a side-table of white marble, carved by Wyatt, so as to -look like a table “covered with a white linen table napkin; the folds -being so accurately represented in the marble as to require a close -inspection to convince the observer of the solidity of the material.” -It weighs between two and three tons. In this room are magnificent -examples, life-size full-length portraits, by Sir Joshua Reynolds, and -others by Sir Godfrey Kneller. - -The Elizabeth Saloon, so called after the late duchess (Elizabeth, -second daughter of Frederick Howard, Earl of Carlisle, and wife of -John Henry, fifth Duke of Rutland), by whose taste and judgment it was -arranged and decorated. The walls are hung with satin drapery, and -the ceiling, which was painted by Wyatt, is filled with mythological -subjects and family and other portraits. The furniture and appliances -are sumptuous and elegant, and altogether this saloon is the most -gorgeous in the castle. Among its Art treasures are a full-length -marble statue of the late duchess by Wyatt; two full-length life-size -portraits of the late duke and duchess by Sanders; several rare enamels -and pictures; a number of choice watercolour drawings; an extensive -series of cabinet portraits, &c.; and many cabinets, caskets, and other -choice objects. - -Other apartments are the King’s Rooms, so called because used by -the Prince Regent while at Belvoir; the Hunters’ Dining-room; the -Wellington Rooms, so named because occupied by the Duke of Wellington; -the Family Dining-room, &c., but these require no word of comment. - -The Chapel, with panelled stone walls and elegant groined ceiling, has -a canopied reredos, containing one of Murillo’s grandest and choicest -works—the “Holy Family,” whose value is estimated at four thousand -guineas. - -The Wine Cellar in the Staunton Tower, with its vaulted ceiling and -carved boss with crowned monogram of the Blessed Virgin, is one of -the oldest parts of the castle. The Ale Cellar is said to contain -thirty-one thousand gallons of liquor! The largest tun, which holds -about thirteen hundred gallons of ale, is called after the founder -of the castle, “Robert de Todeni,” while the next three largest are -named respectively the “Marquis of Granby,” “Lord John,” and “Lord -George.” The Housekeeper’s Rooms, with their fine assemblage of old -Chelsea, Derby, Sèvres, and other china services; the Steward’s Room; -the Plate Pantry, with the grand and invaluable services of plate; the -kitchens and other offices, perhaps the most perfect of any in their -arrangements and appliances, are all deserving more notice than the -mere mention we can give them. - -The Muniment-room, under the able guardianship of Mr. Green, is, in our -eyes, one of the most important and interesting features of the castle, -and one in which we would fain “live and move and have our being” for -the rest of our lives. It is a perfect mine of historical wealth, and -as a storehouse of genealogical and antiquarian lore is unsurpassed -by any other mansion. It literally overflows with deeds and MSS. of -one kind or other, and all in the most admirable order and condition. -The deeds in this room are above four thousand in number, the greater -part of which date back to the twelfth, thirteenth, fourteenth, and -fifteenth centuries. - -[Illustration: _The Duchess’s Garden._] - -Among the treasures are the cartularies and registers of Belvoir Priory -and Croxton Abbey; rent-rolls of Croxton; household books of various -early periods; a vast amount of original letters; personal accounts and -bills relating to Haddon Hall; inventories of Riveaulx Abbey, Belvoir, -Croxton, St. Dunstans-in-the-West, Haddon, &c.; plea-rolls, charters, -and grants and confirmations of lands, pedigrees, agreements, &c. - -One of the great glories of Belvoir, however, is its grounds and -surroundings; but to these, which to do them justice would require a -special article to themselves, we can only devote a few brief lines. - -[Illustration: _The Statue Garden._] - -The whole place is a labyrinth of beauty, each separate spot that we -come to exceeding in exquisite loveliness those we have passed, and -each turn bringing to view fresh glimpses of charming scenery which -show how well Nature has been studied, and how thoroughly Art, with the -pure and accomplished taste of the late duchess, has been wedded to -her. The Duchess’s Garden, below the slope on the west of the castle, -is formed in an exquisite glade, surrounded on all sides by grand old -trees and luxuriant shrubs; the beds terraced one above the other, -or gently sloped and planted in amphitheatre form, with masses of -colour which give a richness and peculiarity to the scene. The Duke’s -Walk—an avenued path extending in its devious way for about three -miles in length—passes above this garden, and is broken by glimpses -of all the varied scenery on the way, and rendered pleasant by rustic -summer-houses, seats, and other resting-places. Near to the Duchess’s -Garden, in this walk, a tablet, admirably carved by the late Mr. Bath, -of Haddon, bears a sonnet from the pen of the fifth duke in memory of -the duchess. It runs as follows:— - - “One cultivated spot behold, which spreads - Its flowery bosom to the noontide beam— - Where num’rous rosebuds rear their blushing heads, - And poppies rich, and fragrant violets teem. - Far from the busy world’s unceasing sound— - Here has Eliza fixed her favourite seat, - Chaste emblem of the scene around— - Pure as the flower that smiles beneath her feet.” - -Of the character of the Duchess’s Garden a writer in the _Journal -of Horticulture_ (to which we are indebted for the two beautiful -engravings on pages 8 and 24), thus speaks:—“This is a beautiful glade -of considerable extent, surrounded on all sides by trees of grand -dimensions, which on our visit were in their early beauty, developing -those varied tints of green which, if not quite so glowing as the -autumnal ones, are at any rate fresher, and, moreover, are associated -with the thoughts of the lengthening and brightening days of summer, -and not with the shortening and darkening days of winter. In this glade -the natural rocks have been accommodated to the requirements of Alpine -gardening, while the upper portion has been arranged in beds.” “The -bedding pansies, the oxlips (of which the Belvoir strain is remarkably -fine), were in flower. The beautiful _Gentiana verna_, accommodated -with nice little ledges on which its brilliant blue shone out -brilliantly, the bright yellow _Doronicum Austriacum_, and other fine -plants were there. And then how beautiful were the blue forget-me-nots! -how luxuriantly fine the _Saxifraga crassifolia_! Then, again, we had -the brilliant blue of _Lithospermum prostratum_ as it trailed over the -rockery, and that of its larger congener, _L. Gastoni_. Of a softer but -no less beautiful shade of blue was _Myosotis dissitiflora_, though now -nearly past, as it is the earliest of the tribe. Then how fine was -_Veratrum nigrum_, beautiful for its foliage!” “Then there were bright -masses of _Dianthus neglectus_ and _alpinus_, with their dense tufts -of lovely pink flowers; and turn which way you will, gems of rarity -or beauty met the eye.” “One likes to linger on these slopes; and as -one stands on the upper portion of it, and looks down on the carpet of -lovely green backed by the feathery and elegant foliage of the birch, -it is indeed hard to be obliged to tear one’s self away from it.” - -[Illustration: _Belvoir Castle, from the Stables, showing the Covered -Exercise-ground._] - -The Statue Garden, one of the most striking “bits” in the grounds, -is so called from a number of statues by Cibber which adorn it. -This garden, when viewed from the terrace, entirely screened from -observation from the castle, is one of marvellous and old-world beauty; -the majestic and venerable silver firs—remarkable for their gigantic -growth and their hoary age—the grounds, half garden, half wood (a -strange combination of natural wildness with artificial planting), -adding much to the effect of the scene. - -The Dairy, the Kennels, the Stables with the covered Exercise-ground, -and the Farm, as well as the magnificent Lake of ninety acres in -extent, are all objects of special interest, but to them we can only -thus allude. - -[Illustration: _The Gardener’s Cottage._] - -The Mausoleum is situated on the summit of an eminence on the opposite -side of the valley from the castle, on a spot immediately facing the -windows of the Duchess’s boudoir, chosen by herself as a fit place -wherein she might rest. Her grace died in 1825, and was buried at -Bottesford Church. In 1826 the mausoleum was commenced, and completed -in 1828, when her body, and those of nine other members of the family, -were removed to it and deposited in the vault. Since then others have -been removed there, and the “good duke” also there rests, as does the -lamented Lord George Manners (brother of the present duke), who died in -November, 1874. The mausoleum is approached by an avenue of grand old -yews, which give a solemnity to the place which is eminently in keeping -with its character. The building is in the Norman style, and consists -of what may perhaps be called a chapel, with apse and a projecting -porch, and vaults beneath. Within the apse, lit with a flood of golden -light from above, is one of the most exquisitely beautiful pieces of -sculpture it has been our good fortune to see. On it the Duchess is -represented as rising from the admirably sculptured tomb with expanded -arms, and her face elevated towards the clouds, in which are seen four -cherubs—the children who preceded her to the grave—one of whom is -holding over her a crown of glory. It is by Wyatt, and is considered to -be his masterpiece. - -The Kitchen and Fruit Gardens are about eight acres in extent within -the walls, and more than that outside. They are arranged in the most -effective, convenient, and admirable manner, and managed with that care -and judgment which are the distinguishing characteristics of the head -gardener’s skill. His charming cottage forms one of our vignettes; -it is overgrown with clematis and other climbing plants, which grow -with natural luxuriance over its porch and hedgerows. Nature, indeed, -in the grounds and gardens of Belvoir, is the first, the main, and -the ultimate study; and thus at all points, and in every direction, -natural instead of artificial beauties present themselves to the eye, -and give the greatest charm of all to whatever the visitor sees. -Wild flowers are especially cultivated and bedded out in all their -native simplicity, while numbers of Alpine and other plants are also -acclimatised, and mingle their beauties with those of our own country. -_Belvoir_ is indeed well named, not only for its “beautiful prospect” -from the building itself, but its hundreds of beautiful prospects -within its own boundaries. - -Well might a gifted authoress thus write on leaving so lovely a place -as Belvoir Castle and its surroundings:— - - “Farewell, fair castle, on thy lordly hill - Firm be thy seat, and proud thy station still: - Soft rise the breezes from the vale below— - Bright be the clouds that wander o’er thy brow: - O’er the fair lands that form thy broad domain, - Short be the winter—long the summer reign. - Pilgrim of pleasure to thy stately towers, - Fain would I leave among thy friendly bowers - Some votive offering—and, ere on my way - With many a backward glance I turn to stray, - Bid virtue, strength, and honour crown thy walls; - Joy, love, and peace abide within thy halls; - While grateful mirth and noble courtesy, - As now, for ever, hold their seat in thee; - And still upon thy lordly turrets rest - The grateful blessing of each parting guest.” - -The neighbourhood of Belvoir Castle is one of great beauty, and it -is rich in objects of interest both to the botanist, the naturalist, -and the geologist; while to the lover of Nature it presents charms of -unusual attraction. In the hills and vales surrounding the castle, -nearly the whole series of lower oolitic rocks may be traced, from -the white limestone down to the black liassic shales. Capping the -hills to the south, which are of greater elevation than the castle, is -the inferior oolite, or rather a variety of it called “Lincolnshire -limestone,” a hard, light rock, very rich in fossil remains. On these -hills the growth of trees is stunted, but the ground is covered with a -profusion of lovely flowers. Underlying the oolite is the upper lias -clay, rich in fossils and shells. Belvoir Castle itself stands on the -extremity of a long northern spur of these hills, upon the middle lias, -or marlstone, which caps all the neighbouring heights, and gives their -soil a remarkably red tinge. It is very rich in iron, both in veins and -in lump ore. The vale of Belvoir, below the castle, towards the north, -lies mostly upon the lower lias, which is celebrated for its richness -in fossil remains, some of the ammonites here found being of gigantic -size. The vale is, however, best known to geologists on account of -its sauria, which are both numerous and well preserved. In the old -river-ways and hollows of the vale, in the drift, are also found traces -of the mammoth, gigantic antlers, and other remains of extinct races of -animals, which through untold ages have been hidden from sight. - -Our views of Belvoir, we may add, are engraved from photographs, taken -specially for the purpose, by Mr. R. Keene, and by Mr. George Green. - -Bottesford Church, a fine structure of the Perpendicular period, with a -lofty crocketed spire, is mainly interesting as being the resting-place -for several of the old monuments of the successive owners of Belvoir, -removed hither from the priories of Belvoir and Croxton, and as the -burial-place of several generations of the family of Manners. The -earliest of the monuments is one which has been variously ascribed to -Robert de Todeni and the third William de Albini: if to either, it -most probably commemorates the latter of these. Other early monuments -are to members of the De Ros family. Among these are William de Ros, -1414; Margaret, his wife; and John, Lord Ros. Among the monuments of -the Manners family are those of Thomas, first Earl of Rutland, and his -countess, 1543; Henry, Earl of Rutland, and Margaret, his countess, -1563; Edward, third Earl of Rutland, 1587; John, fourth Earl of -Rutland, 1588; Roger, fifth Earl of Rutland, 1612; Francis, sixth Earl -of Rutland (and his “two sonnes, both which dyed in their infancy, by -wicked practice and sorcerye”), 1632; George, seventh Earl of Rutland, -1641; John, eighth Earl of Rutland, and his countess, 1670; and others. - - - - -TRENTHAM. - - -TRENTHAM, the magnificent seat of his Grace the Duke of Sutherland, -is beautifully situated not far from the rise of the river Trent, in -one of the most charming parts of Staffordshire. Its nearest town is -Newcastle-under-Lyme, closely adjacent to the most important centre of -British industry, the Pottery district, rendered famous in the world of -commerce by its vast productions, which supply every civilised country, -and in the world of Art by the “things of beauty” produced by its -matchless artists, and which will literally remain a “joy for ever,” in -whatever place they may be preserved. - -The history of Trentham is not one that requires much attention, for, -unlike many other places, it has had no stirring historical incidents -connected with it, and its story is therefore one of peace. Its -vicissitudes have not been unpleasant ones, not one scene of rapine -or war or murder being recorded in its annals; and it has become -the “home”—literally the most charming and comfortable of English -homes—of one of our greatest nobles, where domestic comforts take -the place of state and ceremony, and homelike surroundings supplant -unmeaning grandeur. - -Trentham Monastery was, it is stated, founded by Ethelred, who -succeeded his brother Wulphere as King of Mercia in 675, and who -induced his niece Werburgh (daughter of Wulphere) “to leave the -religious house at Ely, where she was abbess, to superintend the -nunnery he had built at Trentham, as well as other similar religious -foundations in Mercia—viz. Hanbury, near Burton-on-Trent; Repton -(the capital of the Mercian kingdom), in Derbyshire; and Weedon, in -Northamptonshire. Werburgh died at Trentham, after leading a long -and pious and eminently useful life, and, being shortly afterwards -canonised, became one of the most celebrated of Anglo-Saxon saints. It -is supposed that the original site of St. Werburgh’s Nunnery was at -Hanchurch, about a mile from Trentham, the spot being marked by some -venerable yews of great antiquity, which still form three sides of a -square. It was called Tricengham, and is by that name described by -Tanner, Dugdale, and others. - -There is no record for the next four hundred years; but in the Domesday -survey a priest is mentioned as being there. In the time of William -Rufus (1027 to 1100), the priory having been restored or rebuilt by the -Earl of Chester, “the prior and canons entered upon Trentham by a deed -of gift from Hugh, first Earl of Chester; and a deed of institution -by Roger de Clinton, Bishop of Lichfield (1139), describes John, the -prior, as instituted to the priory of Trentham and its appendages, on -the presentation of the Empress Maude, at a synod held at Lichfield.” -The building appears to have been continued by the fourth Earl of -Chester, as the charter, commonly known as the deed of “Restoration,” -is that of Randle, the fourth earl (about 1152). It is the remains -of this building which have furnished the fine Norman pillars of -the present church. In 1162 the church of Sutton-en-le-Felde, in -Derbyshire, was given to Trentham by Ralph de Boscherville. The -chapelries of Whitmore and Newcastle also belonged to it; and soon -after this date Hugh Kyveliok, Earl of Chester, gave to it the church -of Bettesford. In the next century Clayton Griffith became an appanage -of the priory, as did Over-Elkiston. In 1321 the advowson was claimed -by the Earl of Lancaster, who instituted a prior (Richard of Dilhorne), -whose election was afterwards confirmed by the King. - -Early in the reign of Henry VI. the priory obtained from the King in -very express terms a confirmation and enlargement of former grants. -After reciting the original deeds of gift of Henry II. and Randolph, -Earl of Chester, the King bestows on “my Canons of Trentham” “Crofts -for cultivation, and all other lands belonging to the manor (_in -malo territoris_), and the two moores on either side of the village -between the wood and the river of Trentham for the purpose of being -made into meadow land for the maintenance of the brotherhood and of the -hospitalities of the house.... And forbid any man to sue them at law -in opposition to this deed, except in my own court.” Given at Dover, -23rd of May, 6th Henry VI. In the latter part of this deed the prior -is described as abbot. The _territorium_ which was to be taken into -cultivation appears to have been the land extending from the King’s -Wood and the High Greaves, and North Wood down to the river. The field -lying on the sloping ground between the farmhouse of North Wood and the -river is still called the Prior’s More, or Moor. - -[Illustration: _Trentham, from Monument Hill, Tittensor._] - -After the dissolution of the monasteries in 1531, the priory of -Trentham (whose last prior was Thomas Bradwell, who, elected 22nd -Henry VIII., held office at the time), whose annual value was returned -at £106 2_s._ 9_d._ clear, was granted, in 1539, to Charles Brandon, -Duke of Suffolk, brother-in-law to Henry VIII., and afterwards came -into the possession of the Levesons, a Staffordshire family of great -antiquity seated at Willenhall. Nicholas Leveson, Lord Mayor of -London, died in the year that Trentham was granted to the Duke of -Suffolk. His great-grandson, Sir John Leveson, left two daughters only, -his co-heiresses, one of whom, Frances, by marrying Sir Thomas Gower of -Sittenham, carried Trentham and other extensive possessions into this -ancient Yorkshire family, which dates from the Conquest. - -Sir Richard Leveson was distinguished as a naval commander. He is -considered to be the subject of the fine old plaintive ballad “The -Spanish Lady’s Love,” although the same honour has been ascribed to Sir -John Bolle, for he accompanied the Earl of Nottingham in his expedition -against Cadiz when he was twenty-seven years of age. The ballad, one of -the best in our language, tells the story of a “Spanish lady” “by birth -and parentage of high degree,” who, being detained as a prisoner by the -English captain, was so overcome with his kindness that she conceived a -violent attachment towards him; so much so, indeed, that when— - - “... At last there came commandment - For to set the ladies free, - With all their jewels still adornéd, - None to do them injury; - Then said this lady gay, ‘Full woe is me! - O, let me still sustain this kind captivity! - - * * * * * - - Thou hast set this present day my body free, - But my heart in prison strong remains with thee.’” - -The captain urged many objections, each one of which in turn she argued -away and removed, even when he said— - - “I have neither gold nor silver - To maintain thee in this case, - And to travel is great charges - As you know in every place.” - -She answered— - - “My chains and jewels every one shall be thine own, - And the five hundred pounds in gold that lies unknown.” - -At length, finding all other argument useless, he is made boldly to -declare— - - “I in England have already - A sweet woman to my wife; - I will not falsify my vow for gold or gain, - Nor yet for all the fairest dames that live in Spain.” - -To which she makes him the magnanimous answer— - - “Oh! how happy is that woman - That enjoys so true a friend! - Many happy days God send her! - Of my suit I’ll make an end: - On my knees I pardon crave for this offence, - Which love and true affection did first commence. - - Commend me to thy loving lady, - Bear to her this chain of gold - And these bracelets for a token, - Grieving that I was so bold: - All my jewels in like sort bear thou with thee, - For they are fitting for thy wife, and not for me.” - -[Illustration: _Statue of Sir Richard Leveson in the Court-yard at -Trentham._] - -And she, taking an affecting leave of him, declares her intention of -spending her days in prayer in a nunnery. Sir Richard married the -daughter of the famous Earl of Nottingham, who was Lord High Admiral -and Commander-in-chief of the fleet which defeated the Armada. -Sir Richard Leveson, who was in this engagement, was, in 1601, -made Vice-Admiral, and died in 1605. In the collegiate church at -Wolverhampton was formerly a “stately monument in black marble erected -to his memory, by which were two brass plates, the one inscribed with -the chief events of his life, registered at length in Latin,” and the -other in English, erected by Sir Richard Leveson. It was executed by -Le Sueur for £300, the original contract being still preserved at -Trentham. During the civil wars “this bronze effigy was ordered by the -Committee of Sequestrations at Stafford to be taken away and cast into -cannon; but by the timely interposition of Lady Leveson, the Admiral’s -widow, it was redeemed for a sum of money, and deposited in Lilleshall -Church till the strife was over. The marble monument being destroyed, -it now occupies a niche in the church of Wolverhampton,” and a copy is -preserved in a recess in the court-yard at Trentham. - -Sir Richard Leveson, Knight of the Bath, M.P. for Shropshire, and -afterwards for Newcastle-under-Lyme, was devoted to the cause of -Charles I. He made his residence at Trentham, “being accounted one of -the best housekeepers and landlords in the county. In consequence of -his adherence to the royal cause, his property was sequestrated, for -which he compounded by the payment of more than £6,000—the largest -composition obtained. A letter of his to the Governor of Shrewsbury -strikingly indicates the distresses sustained even by persons of -distinction during those troubled times:— - - “_S^r_ - - “Since the unhappy surprise of Stafford by the rebelles, the place - where I am is not safe, either for myselfe or my goodes, and therefore - I have sent 2 wagons loaded with some household stuffe, which I - desire, with your dispensacon, may be received into your towne of - Shrewsbury, into a roome which I have longe reserved in myne owne - handes for this purpose against a tyme of neede; and that to this - effecte you will please to give order unto your watch for free passage - to and fro, whereby you will oblige mee more and more to remayne - - “Yo^r ever affectionate frende - “R. LEVESON.” - - “LILLESHALL LODGE, _16 May, 1643_. - - “To my much respected frende - “S^R FRANCIS OTELEY, Kt - “Governour of Shrewsbury—Haste these.” - -The Sir Richard Leveson who built the old hall at Trentham in 1633 -(two views of which are given in Plot) died in 1661. His widow, Lady -Katharine Leveson (daughter of Robert, Duke of Northumberland, and -Lady Alice Dudley), was a great benefactress to the parish. She died -at Trentham in 1674, and was buried at Lilleshall. Her charities -were almost boundless. Sir Richard Leveson dying without issue, the -Trentham estates passed to his sister and co-heiress, who had married -Sir Thomas Gower, and in the Gower family they have remained to this -day. Sir William Leveson-Gower, his second son, who inherited the -estates on the deaths of his elder brother and nephew, married Lady -Jane Granville, eldest daughter of the Earl of Bath, by whom he had -issue, with others, Sir John Leveson-Gower, who in 1703 was created -Baron Gower of Sittenham. He married Catherine, daughter of the first -Duke of Rutland, by whom he had four sons and two daughters. The eldest -of these sons, John, was in 1746 advanced to the dignity of Viscount -Trentham and Earl Gower. He was married three times: first, to Evelyn, -daughter of the Duke of Kingston, by whom he had four sons and seven -daughters; secondly, to Penelope, daughter of Sir John Stonehouse, by -whom he had one daughter; and, thirdly, to Lady Mary Tufton, daughter -of the Earl of Thanet, by whom he had three sons and one daughter, -one of whom was the famed Admiral John Leveson-Gower. His lordship -was succeeded by his third son by his first wife, Granville Leveson -Gower, who in 1786 was raised to the dignity of Marquis of Stafford. He -married three times: first, Elizabeth Fazakerly, by whom he had a son, -who died in infancy; second, Lady Louisa Egerton, daughter of the first -Duke of Bridgewater, by whom he had issue a son, George Granville, -who succeeded him, and three daughters (Lady Louisa, married to Sir -Archibald Macdonald; Lady Caroline, married to Frederick, Earl of -Carlisle; and Lady Anne, married to Edward Vernon Harcourt, Archbishop -of York); third, Lady Susan Stewart, daughter of the Earl of Galloway, -by whom he had issue one son, Granville Leveson-Gower, created Baron -Leveson of Stone, and Viscount and Earl Granville (who married Lady -Harriet Elizabeth Cavendish, daughter of the fifth Duke of Devonshire, -and was father of the present eminent statesman, Earl Granville), and -three daughters—viz. Lady Georgiana Augusta, married to the Earl of -St. Germains; Lady Charlotte Sophia, married to the Duke of Beaufort; -and Lady Susanna, married to the Earl of Harrowby. The Marquis, who -held many important public offices, died in 1803, and was succeeded by -his eldest son— - -George Granville Leveson-Gower, as second Marquis of Stafford. This -nobleman married, in 1785, Elizabeth, Countess of Sutherland and -Baroness Strathnaver (a title dating from 1228), and was, in 1833, -advanced to the dignity of Duke of Sutherland. His grace, who had been -called to the Upper House during his father’s lifetime as Baron Gower, -became heir to the Duke of Bridgewater, and thus added immense wealth -to the family property. He had surviving issue two sons—viz. George -Granville, by whom he was succeeded, and Lord Francis, who took the -name and arms of Egerton, by sign-manual, in 1833, and was raised to -the peerage as Earl of Ellesmere in 1846 (he married Harriet Catherine, -eldest daughter of Charles Greville, Esq., by whom he had issue, with -others, the second Earl of Ellesmere, and Admiral Egerton, who married -Lady Louisa Cavendish, daughter of the present Duke of Devonshire)—and -two daughters, viz. Lady Charlotte Sophia, married to the Duke of -Norfolk; and Lady Elizabeth Mary, married to Richard, Marquis of -Westminster, father of the present Duke of Westminster. - -A noble colossal bronze statue of the Duke (who died in 1833), the -figure being sixteen feet in height, and placed on a lofty column on -Tittensor Hill (called “Monument Hill”), forms a conspicuous object -against the sky from the house and gardens of Trentham. It is one -of Chantrey’s masterpieces of Art. The column, base, and steps were -designed by Barry. The entire height is fifty-nine feet, including the -figure. It bears the following appropriate inscription:— - - IN LASTING MEMORIAL OF - GEORGE GRANVILLE, - DUKE OF SUTHERLAND, MARQUIS OF STAFFORD, K.G. - AN UPRIGHT AND PATRIOTIC NOBLEMAN, - A JUDICIOUS, KIND, AND LIBERAL LANDLORD; - WHO IDENTIFIED THE IMPROVEMENT OF HIS VAST ESTATES WITH - THE PROSPERITY OF ALL WHO CULTIVATED THEM; - A PUBLIC YET UNOSTENTATIOUS BENEFACTOR, - WHO, WHILE HE PROVIDED USEFUL EMPLOYMENT - FOR THE ACTIVE LABOURER, - OPENED WIDE HIS HAND TO THE DISTRESSES OF THE WIDOW - THE SICK, AND THE TRAVELLER; - A MOURNING AND GRATEFUL TENANTRY, - UNITING WITH THE INHABITANTS OF THE NEIGHBOURHOOD, - ERECTED THIS PILLAR A.D. MDCCCXXXIV. - -George Granville Leveson-Gower, second Duke of Sutherland, was called -to the Upper House during his father’s lifetime as Baron Gower. He -was born in 1786, and married, in 1823, the Lady Harriet Elizabeth -Georgiana Howard, daughter of the Earl of Carlisle. By this happy -union his grace had issue four sons and seven daughters. Among these -were—the present Duke of Sutherland, of whom more presently; Lord -Albert Sutherland Leveson-Gower, who married, in 1872, a daughter of -Sir Thomas Nevill Abdy, Bart., and died in 1874, leaving issue one -infant; Lord Ronald Charles Leveson-Gower, late M.P. for Sutherland; -Lady Elizabeth Georgiana, married, in 1844, to the present Duke of -Argyll, and is mother of the Marquis of Lorne; Lady Evelyn, married to -Lord Blantyre; Lady Caroline, married to the Duke of Leinster; and Lady -Constance Gertrude, married to the present Duke of Westminster. His -Grace the Duke of Sutherland died in 1861, aged seventy-four, and was -buried in the Mausoleum at Trentham. He was a man of liberal, kindly, -gentle, and benevolent disposition, and was beloved by people of every -class; indeed, such was the affectionate attachment of his tenants, -that after his death they erected statues to his memory on most of his -estates. - -[Illustration: _Monument of Harriet, Duchess of Sutherland, Trentham -Church._] - -The Duchess, whose refined taste, attachment to Art, amiability of -disposition, winning manners, and energetic character were beyond -praise, died in 1868, and was also buried in the mausoleum at Trentham. -She was Mistress of the Robes to the Queen, by whom she was esteemed -as a beloved friend. To her pure taste Trentham owes many of its most -attractive features, and had she lived to carry out the full bent of -her inclination, much more would have been accomplished. A chastely -beautiful altar-tomb, with a recumbent effigy of the Duchess, by Noble, -has been erected in Trentham Church, and is one of the highest and -purest achievements of sculptural Art. “Recurring to the monument in -Trentham Church,” says the Rev. Prebendary Edwards, “it tells us, -though in silence, of a rare combination of affection, thought, and -artistic skill in all who have been engaged upon it. It could not have -been confided to better hands than Mr. Noble’s, who, as sculptor, has -had his heart in his work. Resting in calm and the deepest repose, -as between life and death, the figure recalls with wonderful truth -the beauty of feature and gentleness of expression of her whom it -represents.” The monument is placed at the east end of the south aisle, -and the sculptor has been happy in finding a spot for his marble where -the light of a south window falls on the countenance of the figure -on the tomb beneath. The floor is laid with encaustic tiles, bearing -the arms of the family and the initials of the deceased. The monument -contains the following inscription, written by Mr. Gladstone:— - - HENRIETTÆ DUCISSÆ DE SUTHERLAND - FIDO MARMORE DESCRIPTA EFFIGIES - EJUS CARISSIMA IMAGO - NUNQUAM NON VIDEBITUR INTER SUOS MORARI - QUIPPE QUÆ ET MULTUM ET A MULTIS AMATA - HAUD SCIAS AN NON MAGIS IPSA AMAVERIT - EGREGIA MENTIS ET FORMÆ DOTIBUS - GNATA SOROR UXOR MATER PARENS - ABSOLUTISSIMA - HABUIT INSUPER E CORDIS BENEVOLENTIA - QUOD IN AMICOS LARGE DIMANARET - DULCEDINUM ET DELICIARUM OMNIA - QUEIS FRUI DATUM EST HOMINIBUS - ILLI CARPERE DIUTIUS LICUIT - ILLI QUOD RIRIUS CIRCA SE DIFFUNDERE - SUB EXTREMUM VITÆ SPATIUM - ETIAM IN DOLORIBUS SPECTATA - NUSQUAM MEDIOCREM SE PRÆBUIT - DENIQUE DEI OPT. MAX. CONSILIUM LIBENTER AMPLEXA - ET USQUE AD FINEM SINE MOLLITIE TENERRIMA - TRANQUILLE IN CHRISTO OBDORMIVIT - LONDONI XXVII DIE OCTOBRIS - ANNO REDEMPTORIS MDCCCLXVIII - -Besides this and other inscriptions, at the head of the tomb we read— - - IN TE MISERICORDIÆ IN TE PIETADE - IN TE BENEFICENZA IN TE S’ADUNDA - QUANTUNQUE IN CREATURA É DI BONTADE; - -and at the base, “In memoriam Matris,” the following:—“This monument -to the beloved memory of Harriet, Duchess of Sutherland, wife of -George Granville, 2nd Duke of Sutherland, is erected, in the church -which they rebuilt, as a loving tribute to her spotless life, A.D. -mdccclxxi.” It was erected by her son, Lord Ronald Charles Sutherland -Leveson-Gower, and a brass plate near it thus records the fact:—“The -erection of the monument to our mother has been the thought and the act -of my brother Ronald. I only share with him in the love and reverence -which prompted it. SUTHERLAND, 1871.” - -The present noble peer, George Granville William Sutherland -Leveson-Gower, third Duke of Sutherland, Marquis of Stafford, Earl -Gower, Viscount Trentham, Baron Gower of Sittenham, in the peerage -of the United Kingdom; Earl of Sutherland and Lord Strathnaver -in the peerage of Scotland; Knight of the Garter and a Baronet; -Lord-Lieutenant of Cromartie and of Sutherland, was born December 19th, -1828, and succeeded his father in his titles and estates in 1861, -having previously sat (as Marquis of Stafford) as M.P. for Sutherland -from 1852 to 1861. He married in 1849 Anne (born 1829), daughter and -only child of John Hay Mackenzie, Esq., created in her own right, in -1861, Countess of Cromartie, Viscountess Tarbat, Baroness Castle-Avon, -and Baroness McLeod, all in the peerage of the United Kingdom, with -remainder to her eldest surviving son. By this lady (who has held the -appointment of Mistress of the Robes to the Queen) the Duke has issue, -living, two sons and two daughters. These are—Cromartie Sutherland -Leveson-Gower, Marquis Stafford, M.P. for Sutherlandshire (heir to the -dukedom), who was born in 1851, educated at Eton, and is in the Life -Guards; Francis Sutherland Leveson-Gower, Viscount Tarbat (heir to -the earldom of Cromartie), born in 1852; the Lady Florence, born in -1855; and the Lady Alexandra, born in 1866. His grace (who accompanied -H.R.H. the Prince of Wales to India in 1875-6) is patron of thirteen -livings—viz. Trentham, Blurton, Sheriff Hales, Hanford, Barlaston, -and Normacott, in Staffordshire; and Donnington Wood, Pains Lane, -Kinnersley, Lilleshall, Longdon-upon-Terne, Ketley, and Donington, in -Shropshire. - -The arms of the Duke of Sutherland are—quarterly, 1 and 4, barry of -eight, _argent_ and _gules_, a cross fleury, _sable_, for Gower; 2, -_azure_, three laurel-leaves, _or_, for Leveson; 3, _gules_, three -mullets, _or_, within a bordure, _or_, charged with a double tressure -flory counter-flory, _gules_, for Sutherland. Crests—1st, a goat’s -head erased, _ermine_, for Leveson; 2nd, a wolf passant, _argent_, -collared and lined, _or_, for Gower; 3rd, a cat-a-mountain, _proper_, -for Sutherland. Supporters—dexter, a wolf (locally called a “gower”), -_argent_, collared and lined, _or_; sinister, a savage, wreathed -about the temples and loins with laurels, holding in his dexter hand a -club, resting on his shoulder, all _proper_, and supporting with his -sinister hand an antique shield, charged with the arms of the ancient -family of Sutherland in proper blazonry. Motto—“Frangas non flectes” -(You may break, but shall not bend me). The arms of the Duke are -engraved on our initial letter (page 32). The principal seats of the -Duke are—Trentham, Staffordshire; Dunrobin Castle, Golspie, Scotland; -Lilleshall, Shropshire; Loch Inver House, Sutherland; House of Tongue, -Sutherland; Tarbat House, Ross-shire; Castle Leod, Dingwall; and -Stafford House, St. James’s, London. - -[Illustration: _The South Front, from the Italian Gardens._] - -The old hall at Trentham, previously referred to, and which was usually -called Trentham Priory, through having been built on the foundations -of that religious house, was altered and enlarged, and in the main -rebuilt, by the second duke. The work was intrusted to Sir Charles -Barry, and was commenced in 1834, and carried out at a cost of about -£150,000. It had, however, previously undergone much alteration at the -hands of Mr. Tatham, who endeavoured to approximate it, in appearance, -to the old Buckingham Palace. - - -PURSUING the carriage-way to Trentham, the visitor passes to the -house from the park through a pair of gates, the posts of which are -surmounted with life-size bronze stags. In the centre of the circular -drive is a fine bronze statue of Diana at the chase. The carriage -porch, which, unlike the rest of the building, is of solid stone, forms -a square, arched upon columns, with an entablature and attic surmounted -with a balustrade, and piers and bases. Over the arches are the arms -of the Duke, boldly carved in stone; the supporters, wolves, as large -as life. From this porch the entrance door opens into an elegant -semicircular corridor, which is one of the prettiest features of the -place. To the left, on entering, the corridor leads to the Entrance -Hall, Grand Staircase, Billiard, and other rooms; and, on the right, to -the Private Conservatory, Drawing-room, the private rooms, &c.; while -in front it encloses the West Court, with its shell-fountain, statue of -“Venus rising from the Bath,” and other attractions. - -It is not necessary to minutely describe the various rooms of this -charming and purely domestic “Home,” nor to observe any consecutive -arrangement regarding those upon which we may remark. All we need do is -to briefly allude to some of the apartments, and then pass on to the -charming grounds—the glory of Trentham. - -Among the more notable rooms are the following:—The Venetian Room, -or the Duchess’s Boudoir, is, without exception, the most perfect gem -of a room which any mansion can boast. It, as well as the Duke’s Room -and Private Dining-room, opens from the corridor to the private rooms, -lined with presses of books, and is lighted by three windows in the -south front. The walls are divided into five large panels, painted by -Clarkson Stanfield, in his best and most brilliant style, with scenes -in Venice; the panels being separated from each other, and surrounded -by gilt reticulated work on a crimson velvet ground. Of the furnishing -and decorations of this exquisite apartment it is enough to say that -it is arranged with that refined and faultlessly pure taste, which can -nowhere be expected to be better shown than in the surroundings of so -good and amiable and accomplished a woman as the Duchess of Sutherland. - -[Illustration: _The South Front, with Grecian Temple._] - -The Duke’s Room closely adjoins this apartment. It is fitted with -presses filled with the choicest and most rare printed books and -manuscripts, and contains some remarkably fine paintings. Among the -literary treasures here preserved we cannot forbear noting the original -manuscript of old John Gower’s poems, in his own handwriting, and, as -shown by an inscription at the commencement, presented by the poet -to King Henry IV., on his coronation, and given back to the family -of Gower, some centuries later, by Sir Thomas Fairfax; and among the -treasures of Art, of which there are many, is one of the original -“first fifty” copies of the Portland vase by old Josiah Wedgwood, in -perfect preservation. And here it may be well to note that through -the kind thoughtfulness of the Duke on our visit, we were shown a -fine and remarkably interesting old Wedgwood jasper chimney-piece in -the Bath-room; it is one of the best remaining specimens. Adjoining -the Venetian Room, on the other side, is the Private Dining-room, the -walls of which are hung with a fine collection of landscapes by Penry -Williams, and paintings by other artists. Leading to the corridor, at -one end, is the Private Arcade, at the extremity of which, next to the -Duke’s Room, has recently been placed Noble’s magnificent statue of -the late duke—a work of Art which takes rank with any of that eminent -sculptor’s productions. - -[Illustration: _The Conservatory and Private Wing, South Front._] - -The Dining-room, at the east end of the south terrace, contains some -choice sculpture by Antonio Sola, Wolff, and others, and some gigantic -vases of Minton’s creation. Adjoining this is the Marble Hall, or -Ante Dining-room, lighted from the ceiling, and containing, besides -a fine sculptured figure of Canning—copied from that by Chantrey -in Westminster Abbey—a full-length life-size portrait of the late -Harriet, Duchess of Sutherland, by Winterhalter. The Breakfast-room, -among its other pictorial treasures, contains Wilkie’s “Breakfast,” -painted for the first duke; Gainsborough’s “Landscape with Sheep;” -Jackson’s “Infant Moses,” exhibited in 1818; Callcott’s “Italian -Landscape,” and other paintings by Poussin, Stothard, Moulson, -Frearson, Rogers, Wilson, &c. - -[Illustration: _The Private Conservatory._] - -The Library, which contains a marvellous collection of choice and -valuable books, is enriched by a frieze from the Elgin and Phigalean -marbles, and is a charming and highly interesting room. In the Saloon, -or Music-room, a pretty apartment whose ceiling is supported on -pilasters, are some exquisite family busts, a charming bust of the late -duchess by Noble, and other attractions. The carpet is characterized -by the same pattern as the terrace garden. The Drawing-room, with its -sweetly pretty painted ceiling, contains many good pictures: among -these are Hofland’s “Storm off the Coast at Scarborough;” Sir Thomas -Lawrence’s portraits of Lord Francis Leveson-Gower (Egerton), and of -the second Duke of Sutherland; Vandyke’s “Children of Charles I.;” -Charles Landseer’s “Benediction,” and others. The Billiard-room has -a lofty coved ceiling, and was the Great Hall of the old mansion. In -it are Winterhalter’s grand full-length figure of Queen Victoria, -presented by her Majesty to the late duchess; a copy of Reynolds’s -portrait of George III.; Romney’s portrait of Queen Charlotte, Lord -Chancellor Thurlow, and the first Marquis of Stafford, and others. - -In the Entrance Hall is a copy of Michael Angelo’s statue of “Thought;” -and on the Grand Staircase is a rich assemblage of family and other -portraits. In the various bed-rooms and other apartments, too, are -contained a vast number of valuable paintings and works of Art. - -The Private Conservatory, however, is one of the “gems” of Trentham, -and is as elegant in its arrangements and decorations as the most -fastidious taste can desire or Art accomplish. Of this miniature “world -of flowers” we give an engraving, from a special photograph taken by -Harrison, but of its Eastern splendour of rich colours we can offer -no idea. It is a square apartment, with Italian windows and trellised -walls, and is also trellised between the lights of the ceiling. In the -centre is a fine figure of “Venus at the Bath.” The noble ferns and the -exotic and other plants are of the choicest kinds, and the arrangement -of colour, especially when all are lighted from the number of lamps -suspended from the roof, is exquisitely beautiful. - -A pleasant feature of Trentham is the Bowling Alley—formerly the -Orangery Arcade—which affords an almost unique and very pleasing -indoor pastime for the family and friends. This feature, we believe, -was much enjoyed by the Shah on his visit to Trentham, which was -rendered lavishly enjoyable to him in every conceivable way. - -From the Entrance Hall a doorway opens into the Church, which thus -becomes not only the parish church, but the private chapel of the Duke. -The Church thus forms a part of, or at all events is attached to, the -house; and the transition from the elegances of modern life to the -grand old house of prayer is very striking and solemn. The Church, -which was restored in 1842 at the cost of the Duke, by Sir Charles -Barry, is the nave of the old abbey of Trentham, the chancel having -extended considerably beyond the present east wall of the churchyard. -The Church, as it now exists, consists of a nave with clerestory, -north and south aisles, and chancel, with a mortuary chapel at the -east end of the south aisle. The pillars which divide the aisles from -the nave are Norman, and are the original pillars, carefully replaced -and restored, of the old priory; from them now spring acutely pointed -arches of a later, and consequently incongruous, character. The -chancel is divided from the nave by an elaborate oak screen of late but -good character, the altar-piece, by Hilton, being the “Taking down from -the Cross.” There is an eagle lectern at the east end of the nave; and -the pulpit is hung with a fine Moorish horsecloth, elaborately worked -in silver on crimson velvet. At the west end is a gallery forming the -family pew. At the back of this, beneath the window, is a bust of -the late duke; on the south side, a bust, by Noble, of a son of the -present duke, who died young; and, on the north side, a tablet to Lord -Frederick Leveson-Gower, who lost his life during the Crimean war. At -the same end of the Church is a poor’s box, bearing date 1698. The -font, the gift of the parishioners, is also at the west end. - -[Illustration: _Trentham Church._] - -In the Memorial Chapel, besides the exquisitely beautiful altar-tomb -to the late duchess by Noble, to which we have already referred, are -monuments and tablets to the Levesons and Gowers; and here, too, is -placed a memorial bust to Lord Albert, recently deceased. Of the -beautiful monument to the late duchess we have given an engraving on -page 40, copied from a clever photograph by M. De Tejada, taken from -the admirable picture by Mr. John O’Connor, painted, we believe, for -Lord Ronald Gower, and in his lordship’s possession. In the north wall -of the Church is a recessed arched tomb, on which lie the fragments of -a highly interesting effigy in chain-mail, dug up in the churchyard a -few years ago; and over the north door are the royal arms, dated 1663, -pierced with Parliamentarian bullets.[40] - -One feature yet remains to be noted; it is the introduction on the -north wall of encaustic wall-tiles, each one of which, enclosed in a -reticulated pattern, bears a memorial of some departed parishioner, in -manner following:— - -[Illustration: - - + - - JAMES SHELDON - DEPARTED THIS LIFE - JULY 3RD, 1822, - AGED 49. - + + - ALSO - IANE HIS WIFE, - APRIL 3RD, 1851, - AGED 74. - - +] - -These, which are many in number, are arranged above the oak lining on -the seats, and have appropriate texts, &c., also in tiles, running -above and below the series. It is a pretty and very lasting, as well -as inexpensive, kind of memorial, and one that might with advantage be -adopted in many churches. In the churchyard are the remains of a cross, -and some other interesting matters. - -[Illustration: _The Upper Terrace Garden, Italian Garden, and Lake._] - -The great features of Trentham are, as we have before said, its grounds -and its matchless lake. To these, however, we have but little space to -devote, though a bare enumeration of their points of beauty would fill -a volume. To the park the public are, thanks to the liberality of the -Duke of Sutherland, and which is one of the innate features of himself -and the noble family of which he is the head, freely admitted. The -gardens and pleasure-grounds (which, until the great alterations made -some years ago, was simply a sheep pasture railed off from the park) -can only, however, and very rightly, be seen by special permission. -To these we must devote a few words. The principal or south front of -the house—two charming views of which we have given on pages 45 and -46—looks across the grounds and lake to the distant wooded hills -skirting the horizon, and crowned in one place by the colossal statue -of the first duke, to which we have already alluded. A part of this -view, as seen from the windows of this front, we have depicted in -the accompanying engraving. First comes the Terrace (not included in -our view), studded with statues and vases; next, the Terrace Garden, -with its central fountain, its grand bronze vases and sculptures, -its flower-beds laid out in the form of a letter S for Sutherland, -its recessed alcoves, and its Grecian temples, containing marvellous -examples of antique sculpture; next, beyond, come the Italian Gardens -(approached by a fine semicircular flight of steps), about ten acres in -extent, with their parterres and borders and sunk beds, their statues, -fountain, and busts, and their thousand and one other attractions; -then the Lake Terrace, with its balustrade, its line of vases, its -magnificent colossal statue of “Perseus and Medusa” (which cost its -noble owner £1,600), its descending steps for landing, its boat-houses, -and other appliances; then, next beyond, the Lake, eighty-three acres -in extent, on which sailing and rowing boats and canoes find ample -space for aquatic exercise; then the Islands—one of which alone is -four acres in extent, and the other a single acre—beautifully planted -with trees and shrubs; and, beyond this again, the woods of Tittensor, -with the crowning monument. To the left are the grand wooded heights -of King’s Wood Bank, a part of the ancient forest of Needwood, and -consequently the remains of the old hunting-grounds of the Kings -of Mercia; and, to the right, the American Grounds, planted with a -profusion of rhododendrons and other appropriate shrubs and plants; -while the Italian Garden is skirted on its east side by a deliciously -cool and shady trellised walk—a floral tunnel, so to speak, some two -hundred yards long, formed of trellised arches the whole of its length, -overgrown with creeping plants and flowers, and decorated with busts, -ornamental baskets, &c., forming a vista of extreme loveliness. - -Near this is a pleasant glade, having the Orangery, now the Bowling -Alley, at its extremity; and near here is the iron bridge—one hundred -and thirty years old, and one of the _chefs-d’œuvre_ of the old -Coalbrookdale Works—crossing the river Trent, which flows through the -grounds. Standing on this bridge, the view both up and down the Trent -is strikingly beautiful. Looking up the stream, the “solemn Trent” is -seen crossed by the old stone bridge, while, to the left, a view of -the house is partially obtained through the trees, the original course -of the river, before it was altered, being distinctly traceable, and -presenting a broader surface and a more graceful sweep than at present. -Looking down the stream, the view is more charming still, and embraces -the river, the lake (into which, until a few years back, the Trent -flowed), the islands, the American and other gardens, and the wooded -heights that skirt the domain. - -Crossing the bridge, a little to the right is the Conservatory, filled -with the choicest trees and flowering plants, and kept, as all the rest -of the gardens and grounds are, in the most perfect order. In front of -this Conservatory is a pretty feature—the poetical idea of the late -duchess—consisting of the names of her daughters (the sisters of the -present Duke of Sutherland) planted in box on a ground of white spar. -The words as they appear are— - - ELIZABETH LORNE. - EVELYN BLANTYRE. - CAROLINE KILDARE. - CONSTANCE GROSVENOR. - VIRET MEMORIA. - -Thus the “memory” of the four daughters of the late duchess—viz. the -present Duchess of Argyll, the Lady Blantyre, the Duchess of Leinster, -and the Duchess of Westminster—is kept “ever green.” - -[Illustration: _The Gardener’s Cottage._] - -Near by are the Kitchen Gardens, Conservatories, Vineries, -Peach-houses, Pine-houses, Orchid-houses, and all the usual appliances -of a large and well-devised establishment; and it is a notable -feature that all round the Kitchen Gardens, some thirteen acres -in extent, is carried what is known as the Trentham Wall-Case—a -glass-sided and covered passage, filled with peaches and nectarines, -and forming an enclosed walk all round the place. Near the garden -entrance is the pleasant residence of the head-gardener, shown in the -preceding engraving. It was erected from the designs of Sir Charles -Barry; and near it is another excellent building, a “bothie” for -the young gardeners, erected from the designs of Mr. Roberts, the -Duke’s architect and surveyor at Trentham. In this cottage the young -gardeners, several in number, board and lodge, and have a reading-room, -healthful and amusing games, and other comforts provided for them. The -Children’s Cottage, with the grounds around, is also a pretty little -spot, and, indeed, the whole of the grounds are one unbroken succession -of beauties. - -[Illustration: _Children’s Cottage and Gardens._] - -Just outside the park is the Mausoleum—the burial-place of the -family—behind which is the present graveyard of the parish. - -Of the Poultry-houses (the finest in existence), the Stables, the -Kennels, and the Estate Offices and Works it is not our province to -speak. They are all that can be desired in arrangement, and are -lavishly fitted with every convenience. - -We reluctantly take our leave of Trentham, congratulating alike its -noble owner on the possession of so lovely an estate, and the Pottery -district in having in its midst a nobleman of such refined taste as his -Grace the Duke of Sutherland, of such liberal and kindly disposition, -and of such boundless wealth, which he has the opportunity of disposing -in an open-hearted and beneficial manner; and this it is his pride to -do. - - - - -KNOLE. - - -[Illustration: _Fire Dogs._] - - -KNOLE HOUSE adjoins the pleasant and picturesque town of Sevenoaks, in -the fertile and beautiful county of Kent—the “garden of England”—and -is situate in its most charming and productive district, neighbouring -the renowned Wealds, and distant but an hour from the metropolis of -England. - -The principal approach to the mansion is by a long and winding avenue -of finely grown beech-trees, through the extensive park—the road -sloping and rising gradually, and presenting frequent views of hill and -dale—terminated by the heavy and sombre stone front of the ancient and -venerable edifice. Passing under an embattled tower, the first or outer -quadrangle is entered; hence there is another passage through another -tower-portal, which conducts to the inner quadrangle, and so to the - - “Huge hall, long galleries, spacious chambers,” - -for which Knole has long been famous. - -Of Knole, as with most of our grand old mansions, it is impossible to -fix, with any degree of certainty, the date of its original foundation; -“but the evident connection between the several properties of Knole -and Sevenoaks with Kemsing, Otford, and Seale, coupled with the gifts -of certain lands in Kemsing to the royal abbey at Wilton, appears to -identify those manors with the _terra regia_ of the Saxon Kings of -Kent, who had, it is supposed, one of their palaces at Otford, to which -place Sevenoaks and Knole have always been esteemed appendant, and were -for some time after Domesday survey held by the same owners.” Early -in the reign of King John, the manor and estates of Knole, with those -of Braborne (Bradborne), Kemsing, and Seale, were held by Baldwin de -Bethun, or Betune, Earl of Albemarle. - -The first Earl of Albemarle was Odo, Count of Champaigne, a near -relative by birth to William the Conqueror, and the husband of his -sister, Adeliza. He was succeeded by his son, surnamed _Le Gros_, who -was also made Earl of Yorkshire. This nobleman appears to have had an -only child, a daughter named Hawise, who espoused William Mandeville, -Earl of Essex, who, on her father’s death in 1179, succeeded to the -title and estates. After his death without issue, his widow, Hawise, -married William de Fortibus, who enjoyed the title, as did also her -third husband, Baldwin de Betune, or Bethun. On his death the earldom -reverted to William de Fortibus, the son of Hawise by her second -husband. - -In the fifth year of King John, Baldwin de Betune gave the manors of -Knole, Sevenoaks, Bradborne, Kemsing, and Seale in “frank marriage” -with his daughter Alice, on her marriage to William Mareschal, Earl -of Pembroke, who was succeeded by his brother, who, being attainted, -the lands were escheated to the Crown. These manors were next, it is -said, given to Fulk de Brent; but he having been banished the realm, -they again reverted to the Crown, and, the family having returned -to allegiance, the lands were restored to them, and the Earl’s -brothers—Gilbert, Walter, and Anselme—successively became Earls -of Pembroke and Lords-Marshal. These earls having all died without -issue, the estates “devolved on their sisters, in consequence of -which Roger, son of Hugh Bigod, Earl of Norfolk, who married Maud, -the eldest sister, became entitled, and died seized of these estates -about 54 Henry III., without issue, leaving Roger Bigod, his nephew, -his next heir, who, in the 11th of Edward I., conveyed them to Otho -de Grandison, who, dying without issue, was succeeded by his brother, -William de Grandison; and his grandson, Sir Thomas de Grandison, -according to Philpot, transferred Knole to Geoffrey de Say, and the -rest of the estates to other hands.” - -Geoffrey de Say was summoned to Parliament by Edward III.; was Admiral -of the King’s Fleet, and a knight-banneret; and distinguished himself -in the wars with France and Flanders. He married Maud, daughter of Guy -de Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick, by whom he left issue William, his son -and heir, and three daughters, who eventually became co-heiresses “to -this property, which continued in the family till the reign of Henry -VI., when one Ralph Leghe conveyed the whole estate by sale to James -Fiennes,” the grandson of the youngest of the three co-heiresses. - -[Illustration: _Front View from the Park._] - -James Fiennes, who had distinguished himself in the wars with France -in the reign of Henry V., was created Lord Say and Sele. The Fiennes -were an ancient family, descended from John, Baron of Fiennes, -Hereditary Constable of Dover Castle and Warden of the Cinque Ports, -who was father of James, and he of John, who had issue Ingelram de -Fiennes, who was slain at Acon, in the Holy Land, in 1190. “He married -Sybil de Tyngrie, daughter and heiress to Erasmus de Bologne, nephew -to Maud, Queen of England, wife of King Stephen, from which match -proceeded William de Fiennes, who succeeded to the estates of the Earl -of Bologne. He was succeeded by his son Ingelram, whose son William -was educated with Prince Edward, and was, in turn, succeeded by his -son John, of whom no issue remained. His uncle, Sir Giles Fiennes, -succeeded. By his wife Sybil he had issue John, his son and heir, and -by Joan, his wife, had issue John de Fiennes, who had to wife Maud, -sister and heir of John Monceaux, of Hurst-Monceaux, in Sussex; and -dying, left issue Sir William Fiennes, Knt., who having married Joan, -youngest daughter to Geoffrey, Lord Say, and at length co-heir to -William, her brother, his posterity thereby shared in the inheritance -of that family, being succeeded by William, his son and heir.” He -married Elizabeth Battisford, by whom he had issue two sons, Roger -and James, the elder of whom left a son, Richard, who, marrying Joan, -daughter and heiress of Thomas, Lord Dacre, was declared Lord Dacre, -and was ancestor of that noble family. - -James Fiennes, the second son, of whom we have already spoken as having -been called to Parliament as Lord Say and Sele, became Constable of -Dover Castle and Warden of the Cinque Ports, Lord Chamberlain to the -King, Constable of the Tower of London, and Lord Treasurer of England. -Such rapid advancement was, however, distasteful to the malcontents of -this kingdom; and the King, to appease them, sequestered Lord Say from -his office of Treasurer, and, as is supposed, to insure his safety from -his enemies, committed him to the Tower. The rebels, under Jack Cade, -however, forced the Tower, carried Lord Say to the Guildhall, and after -a mock trial, hurried him to the Standard in Cheapside, where “they cut -off his head, and carried it on a pole, causing his naked body to be -drawn at a horse’s tail into Southwark, to Sir Thomas of Waterings, and -there hanged and quartered.”[41] - -The murder of Lord Say took place July 4th, 29th Henry VI. He was -succeeded by his son, Sir William Fiennes (by his wife, Emeline -Cromer), who, suffering much in the Wars of the Roses, was compelled to -part with the greater portion of his estates and offices. His patent of -Constable of Dover Castle and Warden of the Cinque Ports he assigned -to Humphrey, Duke of Buckingham, and the manor and estate of Knole he -sold, in 1456, to Thomas Bourchier, Archbishop of Canterbury, for four -hundred marks. After an eventful life he was killed at the battle of -Barnet, and the title died with him. Archbishop Bourchier is said to -have “rebuilt the manor-house, enclosed a park around the same, and -resided much at it.” At his death, in 1486, he bequeathed the estate to -the see of Canterbury. Archbishop Morton, who was visited at Knole by -King Henry VII., died there in 1500; and Archbishop Wareham, who was -frequently visited at Knole by Kings Henry VII. and VIII., also died -there. Archbishop Cranmer likewise resided here, and he, by indenture -dated November 30th, 29 Henry VIII., conveyed Knole and other manors -to the King and his successors, in whose hands it remained until the -reign of Edward VI., when that monarch, in his fourth year, granted it -by letters patent to John Dudley, Earl of Warwick (afterwards Duke of -Northumberland), on whose attainder and execution, in 1553, it again -reverted to the Crown. - -Knole was next, by Queen Mary, granted to Cardinal Pole, then -Archbishop of Canterbury, for life. By Queen Elizabeth, in the third -year of her reign, it, with other estates, was granted to Sir Robert -Dudley, afterwards Earl of Leicester, but was again surrendered, a few -years later, into the hands of the Queen, who then granted it to Thomas -Sackville, afterwards Lord Buckhurst and Earl of Dorset. - -It were indeed a long story to tell of all the famous deeds of the -noble family of Sackville, and one that would take more space than we -can spare. We therefore pass over the earlier members of the family, -so as to reach the first who owned Knole and its surroundings—Thomas -Sackville, Lord Buckhurst. He was the son of Richard Sackville, Lent -Reader to Henry VIII. and Treasurer to the Army of that monarch, by his -first wife, who was daughter of Sir John Bruges, Lord Mayor of London. -When only nineteen years of age he married Cicely, daughter of Sir John -Baker, and held many offices in the realm, being selected by the Queen, -“by her particular choice and liking, to a continual private attendance -upon her own person.” In 1567 he was created Baron Buckhurst. In 1571 -he was sent on a special mission to Charles IX. of France to negotiate -the proposed marriage of his royal mistress, Queen Elizabeth, with the -Duke of Anjou; and later on he was deputed to convey the sentence of -her doom to Mary, Queen of Scots. In 1587 he went on a mission to the -Low Countries, and figured prominently in almost all the incidents of -the eventful period in which he lived. After the death of Elizabeth, -Lord Buckhurst was created, by James I., Earl of Dorset, and was -continued in his office of Lord High Treasurer of England. He died -in 1608. Of his abilities as an author (for he was one of the most -brilliant of his age) Spenser wrote— - - “Whose learned muse hath writ her own record - In golden verse, worthy immortal fame.” - -And this opinion is indorsed, not only by his contemporaries, but by -people of every age since his time. He is chiefly celebrated as the -author of the earliest English tragedy in blank verse, _Gordubuc_, -and _The Induction to a Mirrour for Magistrates_, one of the noblest -poems in the language. _Gordubuc_ is praised by Sidney for its “notable -moralitie,” and the poem is believed to have given rise to the “Faery -Queen.” All contemporaries agree in bearing testimony to the virtues of -this truly noble man. One of them thus draws his character:—“How many -rare things were in him! Who more loving unto his wife? who more kind -unto his children? who more fast unto his friend? who more moderate -unto his enemy? who more true to his word?” - -This nobleman was succeeded by his son Robert as second Earl of Dorset, -who died within a year of attaining to that dignity. He married, -first, Margaret, only daughter of Thomas, Duke of Norfolk, and, -second, Anne, daughter of Sir George Spencer, and was succeeded by his -second son of the first marriage, Richard, as third Earl of Dorset. -This nobleman—who was notorious for the prodigal magnificence of his -household, and had to sell Knole to a Mr. Smith of Wandsworth—married, -two days before his father’s death, the famous Lady Ann Clifford, -daughter of the Earl of Cumberland. He was succeeded by his brother -Edward Sackville, whose name is notorious in history in the matter of -his unfortunate and fatal duel with Lord Bruce, of Kinloss. He married -Mary, third daughter of Sir George Curzon, of Croxhall, in Derbyshire, -“to whose charge the instruction of the young princess was committed -by the unfortunate Charles, to whom the Earl and Countess continued to -the last to be most faithfully attached.” He was succeeded by his son -Richard as fifth Earl of Dorset, who married Lady Frances Cranfield, -daughter of Lionel, Earl of Middlesex, who repurchased Knole of the -trustees of Henry Smith, and was succeeded, as sixth earl, by his son -Charles, who had previously been created Baron Cranfield, and who -married, first, Elizabeth, daughter of Hervey Bagot and widow of the -Earl of Falmouth, and, second, Mary, daughter of James Compton, Earl of -Northampton, by whom he had a son, Lionel, who succeeded him, and was -advanced to the dignity of Duke of Dorset, and made Constable of Dover -Castle, Lord Warden of the Cinque Ports, Lord High Steward of England, -Lord-Lieutenant of Ireland, Lord President of the Council, and held -many other offices, and took an active part in all affairs of the State. - -[Illustration: _The South Front._] - -He was succeeded, as second Duke of Dorset, by his son Charles, who, -among his other offices, held that of Master of the Horse to Frederick, -Prince of Wales. He married Grace, daughter of Viscount Shannon, who -was Mistress of the Robes to Augusta, Princess of Wales, but had no -issue. He was succeeded in 1769 by his nephew, John Frederick, as -third duke. He married, in 1790, Arabella Diana, daughter and heiress -of Sir John Cope, by whom he had issue George John Frederick (who -succeeded him as fourth duke); Mary, married to the Earl of Plymouth; -and Elizabeth, married to Earl Delawarr. The third duke died in 1799, -his only son being at that time in his sixth year. The Duchess, who -married, secondly, Lord Whitworth, resided at Knole till her death -in 1825; the fourth duke, her son, who had only three months before -attained his majority, being killed by a fall from his horse in 1815. -At his death Knole and some other estates passed to his sister and -co-heiress, the Lady Mary Sackville, who married first, in 1811, Other -Archer, sixth Earl of Plymouth, and, second, William Pitt, second Baron -and first Earl Amherst, but had no issue by either of those marriages. -Her ladyship died in 1864, and the estates then passed to her sister -and co-heiress, the Lady Elizabeth Sackville, created in 1864 the -Baroness Buckhurst, wife of the late George John Sackville-West, fifth -Earl Delawarr, with remainder to her second and younger sons, and was -mother of the late peer, Charles Richard, sixth Earl Delawarr; the -present peer, the Right Hon. Reginald Windsor Sackville-West, seventh -Earl Delawarr and Baron Buckhurst; the Hon. Mortimer Sackville-West, -married to Charlotte, daughter of Major-General William Dickson, and -is a claimant for the barony of Buckhurst, the present owner of Knole; -the Hon. Lionel Sackville-West; the Hon. William Edward Sackville-West, -married to Georgiana, daughter of George Dodwell, Esq.; the Lady -Elizabeth, married to the present Duke of Bedford; the Lady Mary -Catherine, married first, in 1847, to the second Marquis of Salisbury, -and second, in 1870, to the fifteenth (present) Earl of Derby; and the -Lady Arabella Diana, married to Sir Alexander Bannerman, Bart. - -The sixth Earl of Delawarr, Charles Richard Sackville-West, C.B., was -born in 1815, and succeeded his father in 1869; educated at Harrow, -and entered the 43rd Foot, 1833; Captain 21st Fusiliers, 1842; Major -in the army, 1846; Brevet-Colonel, 1850; Lieut.-Colonel and Colonel, -1854; Major-General, 1864. His lordship, as Lord West, served in the -Sutlej campaign, 1845; was Aide-de-camp to Lord Gough at the battles -of Moodkee and Ferozeshah, and Military Secretary during the remainder -of the campaign; was present at Sobraon, and has received medal and -clasps; served in the Crimea, including the battles of the Alma and -Balaclava; commanded a detached wing of the 21st Fusiliers at the -battle of Inkermann, and also that regiment at Sebastopol. In the -expedition to Kinbourn he was in command of a brigade, and afterwards -commanded one at Shorncliffe Camp. His lordship was an Officer of the -Legion of Honour, a Knight of the Medjidie, &c. - -His lordship, who was unmarried, died, by his own hand, April 23rd, -1873, and was succeeded by his brother, the Hon. and Rev. R. W. -Sackville. - -The present noble peer, the Hon. and Rev. Reginald Windsor Sackville, -seventh Earl Delawarr, Viscount Cantelupe, Baron Delawarr, Baron -West, and Baron Buckhurst, second son of the fifth Earl Delawarr, and -brother of the sixth earl, was born in 1817; was educated at Balliol -College, Oxford, where he proceeded B.A. in 1838, and M.A. in 1842; -and became Rector of Withyham, in Sussex. He assumed, in 1871, the -surname of Sackville only, in lieu of that of Sackville-West. His -lordship married, in 1867, Constance Mary Elizabeth, daughter of A. D. -R. W. Baillie-Cochrane, Esq., M.P., by whom he has issue living, the -Hon. Lionel Charles Cranfield Sackville, Viscount Cantelupe, born in -1868; the Hon. Gilbert George Reginald Sackville, born in 1869; the -Hon. Edeline Sackville, born in 1870; and the Hon. Leonore Mary, born -in 1872. His lordship is patron of six livings, four of which are in -Sussex and two in Oxfordshire. - -The arms of Earl Delawarr are—quarterly, _or_ and _gules_, a bend -vaire, _argent_ and _azure_. Crest—on a ducal coronet composed of -fleurs-de-lis, as estoile, _argent_, supporters on either side, -a leopard, _argent_, spotted _sable_. Motto—“Nunquam tentes aut -perfice.” His seats are—Buckhurst, Tunbridge Wells; and Bourn Hall, -Cambridge. - -The present owner of Knole is the Hon. Mortimer Sackville-West, son -of the fifth and brother of the sixth and seventh (present) Earl -Delawarr, to whom it passed on the demise of his mother, the Baroness -Buckhurst, to which title, now assumed by Earl Delawarr, he is a -claimant. Mr. Sackville-West, who was born in 1820, became Captain -Grenadier Guards in 1845, and is a Groom in Waiting in Ordinary to her -Majesty. He married first, in 1847, Fanny Charlotte, daughter of the -late Major-General William Dickson, C.B., E.I.C.S., of Beenham House, -Berkshire, who died in 1870; and second, in 1873, Elizabeth, second -daughter of Charles Wilson Faber, Esq. - -Knole House is full of highly honourable and deeply interesting -associations with the past. Seen from a distance, the mansion appears -irregular; but, although the erection of several periods, and enlarged -from time to time to meet the wants and wishes of its immediate -occupiers, it exhibits few parts out of harmony with the whole, and -presents a striking and very imposing example of the earlier Baronial -Mansion, such as it was before settled peace in Britain warranted -the withdrawal of all means of defence in cases of attack from open -or covert enemies. The neighbourhood, as well as “the house,” is -suggestive of many sad or pleasant memories. From the summits of -knolls, in the noble and well-stocked park, extensive views are -obtained of the adjacent country. Scattered about the wealds of Kent -are the tall spires of scores of village churches: Hever—recalling -the fate of the murdered Anne Boleyn and the destiny of the deserted -Anne of Cleves; Penshurst—the cradle and the tomb of the Sidneys; -Eridge—once great Warwick’s hunting-seat; the still frowning -battlements of Tunbridge Castle; these and other subjects within ken -demand thought and induce reflection, both of which obtain augmented -power while treading the graceful corridors and stately chambers of the -time-honoured mansion. The walls are hung with authentic portraits of -the great men of various epochs who, when living, flourished here; not -alone the noble and wealthy owners of the old hall, but the worthies -who sojourned there as guests, to have sheltered, aided, and befriended -whom is now the proudest, as it will be the most enduring, of all the -boasts of lordly Knole. - -[Illustration: _Knole, from the Garden._] - -Visitors are generously admitted into the more interesting and -attractive of the apartments; and they are full of treasures of -Art—not of paintings alone, although of these every chamber is -a storehouse, but of curious and rare productions, from the most -elaborate and costly examples of the artists of the Middle Ages, to -the characteristic works of the English artisan during the reigns of -Elizabeth and James, when a vast amount of labour was bestowed upon the -commonest articles of every-day use. - -In the Porter’s Apartments, adjoining the entrance, is what may be -called the Retainers’ Armoury—an apartment lined with old flint and -steel muskets of formidable bore, cutlasses, skull-caps, and other -warlike implements, including some fine halberds. It is said that -Cromwell, on taking Knole House, carried away several waggon-loads -of arms. Even now the position is so strong, that a garrison of five -hundred men, loopholing the walls, and taking the defensive measures -prescribed by the military science of the day, would be able to make -it a “tough job” to turn them out. The curious brick loopholing of the -wall of a large building, looking like a barn, at the north-east corner -of the pile, seems as if it had been prepared for the use of archers. -In a court-yard near, the wall has been raised, and that at a period -which is widely removed from the date of its erection. In the lower and -thicker portion is a window of the style introduced in the reign of -Henry III. Close by, in the upper and receding portion, is an opening -with the flat, four-centred arch of the Tudor times. - -The first court entered by the visitor is the Green Court, in which are -the famous figures of the “Gladiator,” and of “Venus rising from the -Bath.” Around this court are Lord John’s Apartments, the Greenhouse, -the Bishop’s Stables, and various offices. The next court is known as -the Stone Court, from which Knole House itself is entered. From the -Great Hall a fine old staircase leads to the Brown Gallery. - -The Brown Gallery is oak-panelled, and contains a large number of -portraits—copies, principally, in one style, apparently by one hand, -and in similar frames: they are chiefly of the worthies of the age -of Elizabeth and James, and form a series of much interest. In this -gallery, also, are many of those “easy-chairs” of the same epoch, for -which the house at Knole has long been famous, and which have been -so valuable to artists. It is a long and narrow apartment, panelled, -roofed, and floored with oak. Here the antique fastenings to the doors -and windows are preserved in their early purity; the stained windows -are fresh, as if painted yesterday; while the historic portraits give -vitality to the striking and interesting scene, and seem to remove two -centuries from between the present and the past. - -[Illustration: _The Brown Gallery._] - -From the Brown Gallery a passage leads to the Chapel, fitted up with -tapestry, with stained-glass windows, and the other accessories of a -place of worship. The Chapel is of stately proportions, and flooded -with a golden light, admitted through the eastern window, which is full -of old yellow stained glass. It is kept in perfect order for daily -service; but the appearance of English texts, written in that imitation -of old English which has lately become prevalent, seems to jar with the -traditional Catholicity of the spot. The private gallery is, in fact, -a large room, in which the members of the family can be present at the -worship, unseen by the servants or any other attendants. The gallery is -hung with some very fine tapestry, of a bold style of execution, and in -excellent preservation. The subject is not explained by the tradition -of the spot. It appears to refer to the legend of St. Veronica, as the -marvellous _sudarium_, or handkerchief, bearing the impression of the -features of Christ, is displayed in one scene, to the astonishment of -a truculent personage in an enormous crown, who appears repeatedly in -various parts of the canvas, and no doubt represents “the Emperor”—a -title of singular elasticity in monkish stories. The Chapel is directly -connected with the home chambers of the family: these are hung with -rare pictures by the great old masters, filled with objects of _virtu_ -gathered in various countries by several members of the race, and -distributed with judgment and taste. - -On the other side of the Brown Gallery are Lady Betty Germaine’s -Bed-room and Dressing-room: here, also, are fire-dogs, cabinets, and -easy-chairs, that time has made picturesque. Lady Betty Germaine, from -whom this room is named, was a great patroness of literature and the -Arts. She was daughter of the Earl of Berkeley, and second wife to Sir -John Germaine. Dying without issue, she left, as did her husband, an -immense property to her nephew, Lord George Sackville, who assumed the -name of Germaine. After his disgrace for alleged military incompetency -in the reign of George II., he was loaded with honours by George III., -and by him created Viscount Sackville and Baron Bolebrooke. Lady Betty, -by her will, bequeathed to Lady Vere £20,000; to Lord George Sackville -£20,000, and Drayton House and estate; and, after other legacies, left -the residue of her property to be equally divided between them. Here, -too, is the Spangled Bed-room, which owes its name to the character -of its draperies. The Billiard-room is then reached, and then the -Leicester Gallery, the most interesting of the whole range: it is -full of portraits of the highest merit by great masters—that of the -poet-Earl of Surrey being among its chief attractions. Leading from -this gallery is the Venetian Bed-room with its Dressing-room; between -them hangs a portrait of the Venetian ambassador, who gave the gallery -its name—Nicolo Molino. The looking-glass in this apartment repays -careful attention. It is framed in ebony, banded with silver; and in -this and similar articles of furniture the examples afforded of a free, -bold style of silver-work, English in its character, and eminently -adapted to show to advantage the lustrous surface of the noble metal, -are very striking. In some of the vases and sconces, of which copies -are now to be seen at South Kensington, the same class of workmanship -may be studied. - -Lovers of heraldic antiquity will look with respectful affection at the -pedigree of the noble family, a ponderous roll of parchment, fixed in -a frame, as on the roller of a blind, so that it can be drawn out for -consultation. The arms blazoned on the portion visible are those borne -in 1586. Close by is a second roll of equal length, but of narrower -width, which appears to contain drawings of tombs and monuments, and -copies of painted windows, illustrative of the pedigree. - -[Illustration: _The Cartoon Gallery._] - -The Cartoon Gallery—so called as containing copies in oil by Mytens -of six of the cartoons of Raffaelle—is also full of historic -portraits. In this room are some remarkably fine fire-dogs. Two of -these interesting objects from the Cartoon Gallery are engraved on our -initial letter on page 56. - -The King’s Room, the room in which it is said, though without any -direct evidence, that James I. slept when a guest at Knole, is lined -with tapestry detailing the story of Nebuchadnezzar; the hangings of -the bed are thickly “inlaid” with silver—it is tissue of the costliest -kind; a mirror of silver, an Art specimen of the rarest order; the -various articles of the toilet in the same metal; two marvellous ebony -cabinets; and other objects of great worth, account for the expenditure -said to have been incidental to the visit of the sovereign: it is added -that as they were there placed and arranged in the first years of the -seventeenth century they have remained ever since. It is probable that -the furniture of this room is what was prepared for the King at the -grand reception given to him at Oxford by the Duke, and afterwards -brought to Knole. Knole has not, however, been without its royal -visitors, as we have already stated: among them were Henry VII., Henry -VIII., and Queen Elizabeth. - -[Illustration: _The King’s Bed-room._] - -The Dining-room contains the portraits of men made famous by genius -rather than rank. Here are Shakspere, Beaumont, Fletcher, Chaucer, -Congreve, Gay, Rowe, Garth, Cowley, Swift, Otway, Pope, Milton, -Addison, Waller, Dryden, Hobbes, Newton, Locke (the six last named by -Kneller), Goldsmith, Dr. Johnson, Garrick (marvellous paintings by Sir -Joshua Reynolds), Walter Scott, and other heroes of the pen, many of -whom were honoured visitors at Knole during their lives, and have been -reverenced there since they left earth. - -The Staircase at the Grand Entrance is singular and interesting: parts -of it are old, but the decorative portions are of a modern, and not of -a good character. - -[Illustration: _The Staircase._] - -The Crimson Drawing-room contains pictures by Reynolds, Wouvermans, -Parmigiano, Vandyke, Holbein, Lely, the Carracci, Titian, Berghem, and -others. - -The Retainers’ Gallery, a gallery that runs the whole length of the -house, is on the topmost floor. From its peculiarly picturesque -character it has been drawn or painted by nearly every artist whose -pencil has found work at Knole: we engrave one portion of it. - -The collection of fire-dogs at Knole is singularly rich; they adorn -every room throughout the mansion, the greater number being of chased -silver. The chairs and seats of various kinds, to be seen in all parts -of the house, are, as we have intimated, so many models for the artist. - -[Illustration: _The Retainers’ Gallery._] - -The Great Hall has its dais, its Minstrels’ Gallery, and even -its oak tables, where retainers feasted long ago. In a window of -the Billiard-room is a painting on glass of a knight in armour, -representing the famous ancestor of the Sackvilles; and in the Cartoon -Gallery are, also on glass, the armorial bearings of twenty-one of his -descendants, ending with Richard, the third Earl of Dorset. Of the -several Galleries and the Drawing-rooms it is sufficient to state that -they are magnificent in reference to their contents, and beautiful as -regards the style of decoration accorded to each. There is, indeed, no -part of the building which may not afford exquisite and useful models -to the painter—a fact of which the noble owners are fully aware, for -to artists they have afforded repeated facilities for study. It will -not be difficult to recognise, in some of the best productions of -modern art, copies of the gems which give value and adornment to the -noble House of Knole. - -The beeches of Knole have long been famous: they are of magnificent -growth, gnarled by time into picturesque forms, sometimes singly, here -and there in groups, and occasionally in long and gracefully arched -avenues: of the latter is the Duchess’s Walk. The gardens, too, are -laid out with much taste. The park is, indeed, one of the grandest and -most striking, if not the most extensive, in the kingdom. - -There is not a gallery, not a room, that does not teach to the present -and the future the lessons that are to be learned from the past. Every -step has its reminder of the great men who have flourished in times -gone by, to leave their impress on their “hereafter”— - - “Footprints on the sands of time.” - - - - -CASTLE HOWARD. - - -THIS princely seat of the Howards is distant about twenty miles from -the venerable city of York, on the road from thence to Malton. The -railway station, four miles from the mansion, on the borders of the -Derwent, and not far from one of the most interesting of monastic -ruins, the ancient abbey of Kirkham, is pretty and picturesque, and the -drive from thence to the castle is by a road full of beauty—passing -by tranquil villages and umbrageous woods, and commanding, here and -there, glorious and extensive views of fertile country, far away from -the active bustle of busy life. Castle Howard, one of the most perfect -of the “dwellings” that succeeded the castles and “strong houses” of -our forefathers, with its gardens, grounds, lawns, plantations, woods, -and all the accessories of refined taste, is a model of that repose -which speaks of happiness—and makes it; and it is pleasant to imagine -there the good statesman, retiring from the political warfare in which -he had so large a share, to leave earth, “after life’s fitful fever,” -in the midst of the graces of the demesne, and the honourable and lofty -associations connected with a numerous list of heroic ancestors. - -The Earl of Carlisle, the owner of Castle Howard, is descended from -a long line of noble and distinguished men whose services to their -sovereigns and their country gained for them the highest honours and -distinctions; yet the parts they took in the troublous times in which -they lived brought no less than three of their brightest ornaments to -the block under charges of high treason. - -The House of Howard, although not of the oldest of English families, is -one that claims precedence of rank over all others; for its head, the -Duke of Norfolk, is Premier Duke and Earl, Hereditary Earl Marshal, and -Chief Butler of England, and has, therefore, extraordinary importance -attached to it. - -This great historical House can only with certainty be traced to Sir -William Howard, Judge of Common Pleas in the year 1297, although -plausible, and indeed highly probable, connections have been made -out to a much earlier period. They inherit much of their Norfolk -property from their ancestors, the Bigods. In the fourteenth century, -by the match of the then head of the family, Sir Robert Howard, with -the heiress of Thomas de Mowbray, Duke of Norfolk, the foundation of -the splendour and consequence of the Howards was laid. That lady was -Margaret, eldest daughter of the Duke of Norfolk by his wife Elizabeth, -daughter and co-heiress of Richard, Earl of Arundel. The said Thomas de -Mowbray, Duke of Norfolk, was son and heir to John, Lord Mowbray, by -Elizabeth, his wife, daughter and heiress to John, Lord Segrave, and -Margaret, his wife, daughter and heiress of Thomas de Brotherton, Earl -of Norfolk and Earl Marshal of England, the eldest son of King Edward -I., by his second wife Margaret, daughter to Philip the Hardy, King of -France. - -By this splendid alliance Sir Robert Howard had an only son and two -daughters. The son, Sir John Howard, was created Lord Howard, and -afterwards Duke of Norfolk, and had the highest offices bestowed -on him—a title and honours which have (excepting the periods of -sequestration) remained in the family ever since. - -All the present English peers of the noble House of Howard descend from -a common ancestor in Thomas, the second Duke of Norfolk of the name -of Howard, who died in 1524. Thus the Duke of Norfolk, the Earl of -Suffolk, and the Earl of Carlisle are descended from his first wife, -Mary, daughter and heiress to Henry Fitzalan, Earl of Arundel; and the -Earl of Effingham from his second wife, Margaret, daughter and heiress -of Thomas, Lord Audley of Walden, and widow of Lord Henry Dudley, son -of the Duke of Northumberland. The Howards of Greystoke, in Cumberland, -are a younger branch of the present ducal House, as are the Howards -of Glossop, &c. The Howards of Corby Castle descend from the Carlisle -branch, tracing from “Belted Will Howard.” The titles and dignities -now enjoyed by different members of the family of Howard are—Duke of -Norfolk, Earl Marshal, and Hereditary Marshal of England; Premier Duke -and Earl next to the royal blood; Earl of Norfolk, Earl of Surrey, Earl -of Arundel, Baron Fitzalan, Baron Clun, Baron Oswaldestre, and Baron -Maltravers; Earl of Suffolk, Earl of Berkshire, Viscount Andover, and -Baron Howard; Earl of Carlisle, Viscount Howard of Morpeth (generally -called Viscount Morpeth), and Baron Dacre of Gillesland; Earl of -Effingham, Viscount Howard of Effingham, and Baron Howard of Effingham; -Baron Howard of Glossop; Baron Lanerton of Naworth; Earl of Wicklow, -Viscount Wicklow, and Baron Clonmore. - -The earldom of Carlisle was originally enjoyed by Ranulph de Meschines, -nephew of Hugh Lupus, Earl of Chester. The earldom appears next to -have been given to Andrew de Harcla, who was son of Michael de Harcla, -Governor of Carlisle, who afterwards “being condemned for a traytor, he -was at first in form degraded, having his knightly spurs hew’d off from -his heels; and at last hang’d, drawn, and quartered, 3rd March, 1322.” - -The title was next enjoyed by the Plantagenets, and thus again merged -into the Crown. In 1620, the title—with those of Viscount Doncaster -and Baron Hay—was conferred on Sir James Hay: he was succeeded by his -son James, who died without issue. The title thus again became extinct, -and so remained until it was conferred on the Howards. - -Lord William Howard—third son of the Duke of Norfolk, already spoken -of—was the “Belted Will Howard” of history, one of the leading heroes -of Border minstrelsy—the hero of whom Sir Walter Scott writes— - - “Costly his garb—his Flemish ruff - Fell o’er his doublet, shaped of buff, - With satin slashed and lined; - Tawny his boot, and gold his spur, - His cloak was all of Poland fur, - His hose with silver twined; - His Bilboa blade, by Marchmen felt, - Hung in a broad and studded belt;— - Hence, in rude phrase, the Borderers still - Called noble Howard ‘BELTED WILL.’” - -He was, as we have stated, the third son of the fourth Duke of Norfolk, -and grandson of the famous Earl of Surrey:— - - “Who has not heard of Surrey’s fame?” - -His father lost his title, his estates, and his head on Tower Hill, and -bequeathed him to the care of his elder brother, as “having nothing -to feed the cormorants withal.” He was married, in 1577, to the Lady -Elizabeth Dacre, daughter of Thomas, and sister and co-heiress of -George, Lord Dacre of Gillesland, the ages of both together being -short of eight-and-twenty—he being fourteen years old, and she a few -months younger. During the whole of the reign of Elizabeth, however, -he and his brother Arundel, and several other members of his family, -were greatly oppressed—subjected repeatedly to charges of treason, and -kept in a state of poverty, “very grievous to bear.” On the accession -of James I. their prospects brightened; Lord William was received into -special favour, and, in 1605, was appointed to the perilous post of -King’s Lieutenant and Lord Warden of the Marches, when the northern -shires of England were exposed to perpetual inroads of Border caterans. -The onerous and very difficult duties imposed upon him he discharged -with equal fearlessness and severity. His boast was so to act that the -rush-bush should guard the cow; so that, to quote “quaint old Fuller,” -“when in their greatest height, the moss-troopers had two fierce -enemies—the laws of the land, and Lord William Howard, who sent many -of them to Carlisle, that place where the officer does his work by -daylight.” - -Although formidable to his enemies, Lord William Howard was fervent -and faithful to his friends. His attachment to his lady was of the -“truest affection, esteem, and friendship;” and his love of letters -and the refined pursuits of leisure and ease rendered him conspicuous -even among the many intellectual men of the period. He was the friend -of Camden and other men of note. For Camden he copied the inscriptions -on the Roman remains in his district; and he collected together a fine -library of the best authors (part of which still exists), and, in -addition, he himself edited the “Chronicle of Florence of Worcester.” -He collected a number of valuable MSS., which now form a part of the -Arundel Collection in the British Museum. An excellent portrait of -this great man, of whom the Howards may well feel proud, is preserved -at Castle Howard. His dress is a close jacket of thick black figured -silk, with rounded skirts to mid-thigh, and many small buttons. The -rest of his dress is also of black silk. His sleeves are turned up, -and he has a deep white falling collar. He wears a dress rapier, and -is bareheaded. The dress in which he is painted is, curiously enough, -ascertained, from the steward’s accounts of the time, to have cost £17 -7_s._ 6_d._ There is also a portrait by the same artist (Cornelius -Jansen) of the Lady Elizabeth, his wife. To the courage of the soldier -“Belted Will” added the courtesy of the scholar, and, although the -“tamer of the wild border” has been pictured as a ferocious man-slayer, -history does him but justice in describing him as a model of chivalry, -when chivalry was the leading characteristic of the age. He died in -1640, surviving the Lady Bessy—“Bessie with the braid apron”—only -one year, their union having continued during sixty-three years, and -leaving by her ten sons and five daughters, the eldest of the sons -being the direct ancestor of the Earls of Carlisle. Their sons and -daughters, with their wives and husbands and children, are said, -all at one time, to have lived with them; the family numbering -fifty-two persons. The sobriquet of “Belted Will” was “not, it is -understood, derived from the breadth of the baldric, a broad belt, -the distinguishing badge of high station, but rather meant ‘bauld,’ -or bold, Willie; and that the term ‘Bessie with the braid apron’ did -not refer to that portion of a lady’s dress, but to the _breadth_, or -extent, of her possessions.” - -Their eldest son, Sir Philip Howard, died in his father’s lifetime, -leaving by his wife Margaret, daughter of Sir John Carryl, a son, Sir -William Howard, who succeeded his grandfather, Lord William, in the -enjoyment of his estates. He married Mary, eldest daughter of William, -Lord Eure, by whom he had issue five sons—William (who died in the -lifetime of his father), Charles, Philip, Thomas, and John—and five -daughters. He was succeeded by his second son, Charles, who, for -many loyal services to his king, was, in 1661, created Baron Dacre -of Gillesland, Viscount Howard of Morpeth, and Earl of Carlisle. He -also enjoyed many high appointments and privileges. He married Anne, -daughter of Edward, Lord Howard of Escrick, and had issue by her two -sons, Edward and Frederick Christian, and three daughters. Dying in -1684, his lordship was succeeded by his eldest son, Edward Howard. - -Edward, second Earl of Carlisle, married Elizabeth, daughter of Sir -William Berkeley, by whom he had issue three sons and two daughters. -His lordship died in 1692, and was succeeded by his only surviving son, -Charles, as third earl, who, during the minority of his kinsman, the -Duke of Norfolk, held the office of Deputy Earl Marshal: many important -posts were conferred upon, and trusts reposed in, him. He married Lady -Elizabeth Capel, daughter of the Earl of Essex, by whom he left issue -two sons—Henry, who succeeded him, and Charles, a general of the -army—and three daughters. - -Henry, who succeeded his father, in 1738, as fourth Earl of Carlisle, -married, first, Lady Frances Spencer, only daughter of Charles, Earl of -Sunderland, by whom he had issue three sons, who predeceased him, and -two daughters; and, secondly, in 1743, Isabella, daughter of William, -fourth Lord Byron, by whom he left issue one son—Frederick, who -succeeded him—and four daughters. - -[Illustration: _The South Front._] - -Frederick, fifth Earl of Carlisle, succeeded his father in the title -and estates in 1758, being at the time only ten years of age. In -1768 he was made a Knight of the Thistle, and in 1793 installed as -K.G. His lordship, who was a man of letters and of high intellectual -attainments, in 1801 published “The Tragedies and Poems of Frederick, -Earl of Carlisle, K.G.” This lord was the guardian of Lord Byron, and -to him the “Hours of Idleness” was dedicated. Some severe and satiric -passages concerning the Earl may be called to mind in “English Bards -and Scotch Reviewers”—passages which the erratic poet afterwards -regretted. - -[Illustration: _The Garden Front._] - -He married the Lady Margaret Caroline Leveson-Gower, daughter of -Granville, first Marquis of Stafford, by whom he had issue—the Hon. -George, Viscount Morpeth; Lady Isabella Caroline, who was married, -first, to Lord Cawdor, and, secondly, to the Hon. Captain George Pryse; -Lady Charlotte; Lady Susan Maria; Lady Louisa; Lady Elizabeth, who -married John Henry, Duke of Rutland, and was mother of the present -Duke of Rutland, of Lord John Manners, and a numerous family;[42] the -Hon. William Howard, who died unmarried; Lady Gertrude, who married -William Sloane Stanley, Esq.; Major the Hon. Frederick Howard, who -married Frances Susan Lambton, sister to the Earl of Durham (he was -killed at the battle of Waterloo), who married, secondly, the Hon. H. -F. C. Cavendish, second son of the Earl of Burlington; and the Hon. and -Very Rev. Henry Edward John Howard, Dean of Lichfield, &c., who married -Henrietta Elizabeth, daughter of Ichabod Wright, Esq. His lordship died -in 1825, and was succeeded by his son— - -George, Viscount Morpeth, as sixth Earl of Carlisle, who filled many -important offices. He married the Lady Georgiana Dorothy Cavendish, -daughter of William, fifth Duke of Devonshire, and sister to the late -duke, and by her had issue—George William Frederick, Lord Morpeth -(who succeeded his father); Lady Caroline Georgiana, married to the -Hon. William Saunders Sebright Lascelles, brother to the Earl of -Harewood; Lady Georgiana, married to Lord Dover; the Hon. Frederick -George; Lady Harriet Elizabeth Georgiana, married to the Duke of -Sutherland, and mother to the present illustrious nobleman of that -title;[43] the Hon. and Rev. William George Howard (the present peer); -the Hon. Edward Granville George, Baron Lanerton, married to Diana, -niece of Lord Ponsonby; Lady Blanche Georgiana, married to William -Cavendish, afterwards second Earl of Burlington, and now the present -highly esteemed and illustrious Duke of Devonshire, by whom she had -issue—the present Marquis of Hartington, M.P., Lord Frederick Charles -Cavendish, M.P., Lord Edward Cavendish, M.P., and Lady Louisa Cavendish -(Egerton); the Hon. Charles Wentworth George Howard, M.P., married to -Mary, daughter of Judge Parke; Lady Elizabeth Anne Georgiana Dorothea, -married to the Hon. and Rev. F. R. Grey, brother to Earl Grey; the Hon. -Henry George Howard, married to a niece of the Marchioness Wellesley; -and Lady Mary Matilda, married to the Right Hon. Henry Labouchere, -Baron Taunton. His lordship, who died in 1848, was succeeded by his -son— - -George William Frederick, Viscount Morpeth, as seventh earl, one of -the most distinguished men of the age in literature and science, as -well as in the senate. His lordship, as Lord Morpeth, took a prominent -part in the political affairs of the kingdom, and among the important -offices he held, at one time or other in his useful life, were those of -Lord-Lieutenant of Ireland, Chief Commissioner of Woods and Forests, -and Chancellor of the Duchy of Lancaster. He was a man of the most -refined taste and of the highest intellectual culture, and his writings -were of a rare order of merit. He died unmarried in 1864, and was -succeeded by his brother— - -The present noble peer, the Hon. and Rev. William George Howard, -eighth Earl of Carlisle, Viscount Howard of Morpeth, and Baron Dacre -of Gillesland, in the titles and estates. His lordship was born in -1808, and was educated at Eton and at Christ Church, Oxford, where he -took honours, and proceeded M.A. in 1840. In 1832 he was appointed -to the rectory of Londesborough, which living he held until 1866. He -is senior co-heir to the barony of Clifford, and is unmarried, the -heir-presumptive to the earldom being his brother, Admiral the Hon. -Edward Granville George Howard, R.N., Lord Lanerton. His lordship is -patron of five livings—viz. Brampton, Farlam, and Lanercost Abbey, in -Cumberland; Slingsby, in Yorkshire; and Morpeth, in Northumberland. - -The arms of the Earl of Carlisle are—quarterly of six: 1st, _gules_, -a bend between six cross crosslets fitchée, _argent_, on the bend an -escutcheon, _or_, charged with a demi-lion, pierced through the mouth -with an arrow, within a double tressure flory counter-flory, all -_gules_, and above the escutcheon a mullet, _sable_, for difference, -Howard; 2nd, _gules_, three lions passant guardant, _or_, and a label -of three points, _argent_, Thomas of Brotherton, son of Edward I.; 3rd, -checky, _or_ and _azure_, Warren, Earl Warren and Surrey; 4th, _gules_, -a lion rampant, _argent_, Mowbray, Duke of Norfolk; 5th, _gules_, three -escallops, _argent_, Dacre; 6th, barry of eight, _argent_ and _azure_, -three chaplets of roses, _proper_, Greystock. Crest—on a chapeau, -_gules_, turned up ermine, a lion statant guardant, with the tail -extended, _or_, ducally gorged, _argent_. Supporters—dexter, a lion, -_argent_, charged with a mullet, _sable_, for difference; sinister, -a bull, _gules_, armed, unguled, ducally gorged and lined, _or_. -Motto—“Valo non valeo” (“I am willing, but not able”). - -His seats are Castle Howard, Yorkshire, and Naworth Castle, Cumberland. - -The heir-presumptive to the titles and estates is, as just stated, -Admiral the Right Hon. Edward Granville George Howard, Baron Lanerton -of Naworth, which peerage was bestowed on him in 1873. He was born in -1809, entered the Royal Navy in 1823, and advanced step by step till -he became Admiral in 1870. He married, in 1842, Diana, daughter of the -Hon. George Ponsonby, by whom, however, he has no issue. - -In the grounds of Castle Howard an avenue of about a mile in -length, bordered on either side by groups of ash-trees, leads to -a pretty, cosy, and comfortable inn, on the front of which is the -inscription:—“CAROLUS HOWARD, COMES CARLIOLENSIS, HOC CONDIDIT ANNO -DOMINI MDCCXIX.” It forms a sort of entrance gate to the park: the -mansion, however, is a long way off, the whole length of the avenue -from the road to the house being four miles, with the avenue of trees -continued all the way. Midway is an obelisk one hundred feet in height, -which contains the following inscriptions:— - - “Virtute et Fortunæ, Johannes, Marlburiæ - Ducis Patriæ Europæquæ Defensoris. - Hoc saxum admirationi ac famæ - Sacrum Carolus Comes Carliol posuit, - Anno Domini MDCCXIV.” - - “If to perfection these plantations rise, - If they agreeably my heirs surprise, - This faithful pillar will their age declare, - As long as time these characters shall spare; - Here then with kind remembrance read his name, - Who for posterity perform’d the same.” - - “Charles, the third Earl of Carlisle of the family of Howards, erected - a Castle where the old Castle of Henderskelf[44] stood, and called it - Castle Howard. He likewise made the plantations in this park, and all - the outworks, monuments, and other plantations belonging to the said - seat. - - “He began these works in the year MDCCII, and set up this inscription - anno Domin MDCCXXXI.” - -The history of the house is thus told; but it has no pretensions to the -name of a castle: the mansion is free from all semblance of character -as a place for defence, being simply and purely the domestic home of -an English nobleman, though, as our engravings show, very beautiful in -construction, of great extent, and perfect in all its appliances. - -It is the _chef-d’œuvre_ of the architect, Sir John Vanbrugh, he -who laid in England “many a heavy load,” and whose graceful and -emphatically “comfortable” structures, including notably that of -Blenheim, adorn several of our English shires. Comparing Castle Howard -with Blenheim, Dr. Waagen writes—“The former is less ‘broken up’ -than the latter, and though not of equal extent, has a grander and -more massive appearance. In the whole arrangement of the mansion and -the garden, the architect evidently had Versailles in his mind as the -perfection of this style.” - -[Illustration: _The Mausoleum._] - -Sir John Vanbrugh was, as his name indicates, of Dutch descent. He was -born at Chester in 1666. his father being a sugar-baker in that city. -In 1695, his architectural skill having acquired him some reputation, -he was appointed one of the commissioners for completing Greenwich -Palace, at the time when it was about to be converted into a hospital. -In 1702 he built Castle Howard for the Earl of Carlisle, who was so -pleased with his skill, that, being at the time Deputy Earl Marshal of -England, he conferred upon him the important appointment of Clarencieux -King-of-arms. In 1726 he died, and was buried in the church of St. -Stephen, Walbrook. - -_En route_ to the house, we pass, to the left, in a hollow adjoining -a broad lake, the Dairy, a pretty building picturesquely placed; -and right before us is a steep ascent, from which there is a fine -view—north, south, east, and west. - -[Illustration: _The Dairy._] - -The South Front shows Castle Howard in its finest point of view: it is -in length 323 feet; the centre consists of a pediment and entablature -supported by fluted Corinthian pilasters; and the door is reached by -a flight of stately steps. “The North Front consists of an elaborate -centre of the Corinthian order, with a cupola rising from the top, and -on either side extensive wings—the east according to the original -design, the west from a design by Sir James Robinson, which has been -more recently built in a very different style from the other wing; and, -as the building has been deemed by some architectural critics to be -wanting in the qualities of lightness and elegance, and uniformity of -parts, to this circumstance is owing the alleged incongruity.” - -[Illustration: _The Great Hall._] - -From this point is the main or state entrance into the Great Hall, -pictured in the engraving. It is 65 feet high; a square of 35 feet; lit -from a dome, the top of which is 100 feet from the floor. The principal -entrance is on its north side, and the spaces between the piers on -that and on the south side are open the whole height of the arches. -The south side opens to the suite of apartments on the garden front, -and a richly balustraded gallery gives access to the upper rooms. -The east and west sides are partly filled, the upper portions being -open, and showing the splendid ceilings of the staircase, &c. On one -of these sides is the fire-place, and on the other a canopied recess. -The fire-place is a rich piece of sculptured marbles, and there are -panels filled with pendent groups of musical instruments; allegories -grace the ceilings and walls, principally painted by Pellegrini; and -statues and busts are placed on pedestals, and otherwise adorn the -sides. These allegorical paintings are, on the ceiling, the Fall of -Phaëton; and on the walls, the four seasons, the signs of the zodiac, -the four quarters of the world, Apollo and Midas, Apollo and the Muses, -Mercury and Venus, Vulcan and his attributes, &c. Among the sculptures -are Augustus, Marcus Aurelius, Sabina, Julia Mammea, Bacchus, Ceres, -Diodumenus, Paris, Hadrian, Lucius Verus, Vitellius, Epaphroditus, Marc -Antony, a bacchanal, and others. - -Several doors lead to the various apartments, the state-rooms being -hung with pictures of inestimable worth, and all being decorated in -pure taste. To the pictures we shall presently refer. - -A gallery called the Antique Gallery—160 feet long, by 20 in -width—contains a number of rare, beautiful, and valuable examples -of Roman, Egyptian, and Greek antiquities, among which are many -really fine and unique specimens of early Art. It also contains many -interesting pictures and some good old tapestry. In the Museum has been -collected an immense variety of objects, gathered by several lords in -various countries, with not a few precious relics found in the ancient -localities of Yorkshire and Cumberland: among these are some examples -of ancient mosaic-work, a curious basso-relievo of Mercury, a number of -urns and inlaid marbles, and other objects. There is also here shown -a casket or wine-cooler of bog-oak, mounted in solid silver, a gift -to the good Lord Carlisle by his constituents of the West Riding; it -measures 3 feet 6 inches in length, by 2 feet 4 inches in height and -breadth, and cost about a thousand guineas; and “a monster address, 400 -feet long,” presented to him on his retiring from the office of Chief -Secretary for Ireland. One object of more than passing interest is -an altar supposed to have “stood in the temple of Apollo at Delphi.” -On its top is a tablet bearing the following lines from the pen, we -believe, of the Earl of Carlisle:— - - “Pass not this ancient altar with disdain, - ’Twas once in Delphi’s sacred temple rear’d; - From this the Pythian pour’d her mystic strain, - While Greece its fate in anxious silence heard. - - What chief, what hero of the Achaian race, - Might not to this have bow’d with holy awe, - Have clung in pious reverence round its base, - And from the voice inspired received the law? - - A British chief, as famed in arms as those, - Has borne this relic o’er th’ Italian waves, - In war still friend to science, this bestows, - And Nelson gives it to the land he saves.” - -The Saloon has an exquisitely painted allegorical ceiling representing -Aurora, and is also adorned by a large number of statues and busts, as -well as valuable paintings. - -The Drawing-room is hung with rich tapestry after Rubens’ designs, and -the walls are adorned with many gems of Art. Among the other treasures -in this elegant apartment are some fine antique bronzes. - -The Gold or State Bed-room is hung with the finest Brussels tapestry, -after designs by Teniers. The chimney-piece is very elegant, being -supported by Corinthian columns, the shafts of Sienna marble, the -capitals, bases, and cornice white, with pigeons of polished white -marble in the centre of the frieze. Upon it stands a bust of Jupiter -Serapis. - -The Breakfast and Dining Rooms—and, indeed, the whole of the -apartments in the mansion—are elegantly and even sumptuously -furnished, and filled to repletion with objects of interest and of -_virtu_. - -The Crimson-figured Room has its walls painted, by Pellegrini, with a -series of incidents of the Trojan war: these are—the Rape of Helen, -Achilles in disguise amidst the daughters of Lycomedes, King of Scyros, -and Ulysses in search of him, Ajax and Ulysses contending for the -armour of Achilles, Troy in flames, and Æneas bearing on his shoulders -Anchises from the burning city. - -The Blue Drawing-room, the Green Damask Room, the Yellow Bed-chamber, -the Silver Bed-room, the Blue Silk Bed-room, and, indeed, all the -remaining apartments, need no further remark than that they are, in -their furnishing and appointments, all that the most fastidious taste -could desire them to be. - -The pictures that so lavishly adorn Castle Howard have been long -renowned. The collection contains some of the very finest examples -of the great old masters to be found in Europe. The best of them -once formed part of the famous Orleans Gallery, and were acquired by -the Earl of Carlisle when the French Revolution of 1789 caused their -distribution. - -To name all the works in this collection would occupy more space than -we can spare: chief among them all is “The Three Marys,” by Annibale -Carracci; it suffices to name it as one of the world’s wonders in Art. -And also “The Adoration of the Wise Men,” by Mabuse, the _chef-d’œuvre_ -of the master. Other grand examples are by Titian, Correggio, -Domenichino, Guercino, Carlo Maratti, Giorgione, Primaticcio, Julio -Romano, Tintoretto, Paolo Veronese, Velasquez, Cuyp, Claude, Ruysdael, -Vandyke, Rubens, Wouvermans, Breughel, Berghem, Jansen, Holbein, -Huysman, Mabuse, Van der Velde, Teniers, and Canaletti. Of Canaletti -there are no fewer than forty-five examples—his best productions in -his best time—scattered throughout the corridors and rooms, with -famous specimens of Reynolds and Lawrence, and family portraits by -other artists; notably those of Jackson, an artist who, from his -obscure boyhood in Yorkshire, was encouraged and upheld by the House of -Carlisle. - -The history of the dispersion of the Orleans Gallery deserves -record here. When the French prince, Philippe of Orleans, surnamed -_Égalité_, wanted a sum of money to carry out his political projects, -he sold his entire gallery of pictures (in 1792) for a comparatively -insignificant amount: those of the Italian and French schools to a -banker of Brussels, and those of the Flemish, Dutch, and German schools -to an Englishman, Mr. T. M. Slade. The Italian and French pictures -subsequently passed into the hands of a French gentleman, M. Laborde -de Mèreville, who, being compelled to quit his country during the -Revolution, caused his pictures to be brought to London, and ultimately -sold them to Mr. Jeremiah Harman, a wealthy merchant. “Thus matters -stood,” says Dr. Waagen, in his “Treasures of Art in Great Britain,” -“till the year 1798, when Mr. Bryan”—the well-known picture-buyer, and -author of the “Dictionary of Painters and Engravers,” a standard book -of reference—“prevailed on the late Duke of Bridgewater, Earl Gower, -afterwards Marquis of Stafford, and the Earl of Carlisle, to purchase -this splendid collection for the sum of £43,000, and thus to secure it -for ever to England.” - -The Conservatories are remarkably fine, and well ordered with all the -floral treasures of the world, while the collection of hardy herbaceous -plants congregated at Castle Howard, numbering upwards of six hundred -species, is unmatched elsewhere. - -[Illustration: _The Garden._] - -Of the Gardens we give two engravings: the one chiefly to show a -charming fountain, a work of great merit, the production of the -sculptor Thomas; the other to convey an idea of the peculiar and very -beautiful character of the grounds and their adornments—the terrace -walks, the lake, the summer-house (Temple of Diana), and the Mausoleum, -environed by umbrageous woods; here and there vases judiciously -interspersed with memorial pillars, commemorating some striking event -or some renowned benefactor of the race of the Howards. - -The lawns and gardens are admirably laid out, somewhat trim and -formal, but not out of character with the building of which they are -adornments. The grounds are unsurpassed in beauty—that of which Nature -has been lavish, and that which is derived from Art. - -[Illustration: _The Grand Fountain._] - -The ornamental grounds are of vast extent, and are beautifully -diversified with the varied attractions of lake, lawn, and forest. -The parterre “occupies several acres of a cheerful lawn, of which a -considerable space on the south front of the mansion is laid out in the -most tasteful and pleasing manner, and interspersed with flower-beds, -clumps of evergreens and shrubs, and statuary.” The Raywood, approached -by a gravel walk 687 yards in length, with its delightful walks and -grand old trees, also abounds with statuary. Near the iron gates at -which this walk commences is the Rosary, and close by is a pedestal -erected by one earl, and inscribed with some chastely beautiful lines -by his successor. The Green Terrace Walk, 576 yards in length, is -adorned with statuary, and Lady Mary Howard’s Garden is one of the most -lovely features on the south front. - -The Temple of Diana, from which charming views of the mansion and its -surroundings are obtained, is an Ionic erection, and bears in niches -over its doors busts of Vespasian, Faustina, Trajan, and Sabina. - -The Mausoleum, a circular domed structure, 35 feet in diameter in its -interior, and 98 feet in height, contains in its basement sixty-four -catacombs built under ground arches. Externally, it is surrounded by -a colonnade of twenty-one Doric columns. In the vaults are interred -many illustrious members of this truly noble family: among these are -the third, fourth, fifth, and sixth Earls of Carlisle; Frances and -Caroline, Countesses of Carlisle; and some of the sons and daughters of -these “peerless peers and peeresses.” The Mausoleum is interesting as -being the first, unconnected with a church, erected in England. - -The Pyramid, on St. Ann’s Hill, 28 feet square at its base, and 50 feet -in height, was raised in 1728 to the memory of William, Lord Howard, -third son of Thomas, Duke of Norfolk, who died in 1639. It contains in -its interior a bust, with the inscription— - - “Gulielmus Dominus Howard, obiit x die Martis, ætatis suæ octogesimo - primo, anno salutis MDCXXXIX;” - -and on its north side, on the exterior, the following inscription in -marble:— - - “William, Lord Howard, third son to Thomas, Duke of Norfolk, who - was beheaded by Queen Elizabeth, married Elizabeth, one of the - co-heiresses of William, Lord Dacre; by which marriage, and the said - William’s great industry and ability, are descended to me most of the - estates that I now possess; in grateful remembrance therefore of that - noble and beneficent parent, and of that pious and virtuous lady, this - monument is erected by Charles, the third Earl of Carlisle of the - family of the Howards, their great-great-great-grandson, Anno Domini, - 1728. - - “To thee, O venerable shade, - Who long hast In oblivion laid, - This pile I here erect; - A tribute small for what thou’st done. - Deign to accept the mean return, - Pardon the long neglect. - - “To thy long labours, to thy care, - Thy sons deceased, thy present heir, - Their great possessions owe. - Spirit Divine, what thanks are due? - This will thy memory renew, - It’s all I can bestow.” - - - - -KEDLESTON HALL. - -KEDLESTON, the seat of Lord Scarsdale, is justly considered to be one -of the most pure and chaste in design of any of the classical mansions -of our English aristocracy. It may, therefore, both on that account -and from the beauty of its situation, the interest attaching to the -family of its noble owner, and the many associations which surround it, -well be called a “Stately Home,” and thus claim to be included in our -present volume. At the time of its erection, in 1761, it was pronounced -to be one of the most perfect specimens of architectural taste in -the kingdom, and it has, consequently, been visited by many persons -of note: these have, one and all been lavish in their praises of its -proportions and parts, of the interior details and finishing, of the -pictures and articles of _virtu_ which it contains, and of its grand -old park, studded with the finest of oaks and other forest trees. - -Bray, who wrote in 1777, says of the present building—then, it must -be remembered, only newly erected—“Kedleston may properly be called -the glory of Derbyshire, eclipsing Chatsworth, the ancient boast of the -county; the front is magnificent and beautiful, the apartments elegant, -at the same time useful, a circumstance not always to be met with in -a great house.” This, of course, was before the great additions and -alterations were made to and at Chatsworth, and therefore must not -be taken to refer to that palatial residence as it now stands. Since -Bray’s time, every writer who has spoken of Kedleston speaks in the -same strain of praise of its symmetry and design. - -Before describing the hall, or speaking of its history, we will, as -usual, give a brief genealogical account of the family of its noble -owner. The Curzons are said to be descended from Geraline de Curson, -or Curzon, who came over with the Conqueror, and was of Breton origin. -This Geraline de Curzon was lord of the manor of Locking, in Berkshire, -and held, by the grant of the King, many other manors and lands in that -county and in Oxfordshire. He was a great benefactor to the abbey of -Abingdon. He had three sons, Stephen, Richard, and Geraline, by the -first of whom he was succeeded. This Stephen de Curzon, besides the -estates in Oxon and Berks to which he had succeeded, had the manor of -Fauld, in Staffordshire, granted to him by William de Ferrars, Earl of -Derby. He had an only daughter, married to Nicholas Burton, of Fauld, -and was succeeded by his brother, Richard de Curzon, who, in the reign -of Henry I., held four knight’s fees in Kedleston, Croxhall, Twyford, -and Edinghall, in the county of Derby. He was succeeded by his son -Robert, who married Alice de Somervile, and was, in turn, succeeded -by his eldest son, Richard, who married Petronel, daughter of Richard -de Camville, Lord of Creek, or Creeth, by whom he had a son, Robert -de Curzon, of Croxhall, “whose line terminated in an heir female, -Mary, daughter and sole heiress of Sir George Curzon, who was married -to Edward Sackville, Duke of Dorset. Of this family was Cardinal de -Curzon, so famous about the time of King John.” Thomas Curzon, grandson -of Robert, was succeeded by another Thomas, whose son, Engelard Curzon -(_temp._ Henry III.), left issue a son, Richard, who (25 Edward I.) -held a fourth part of a knight’s fee at Kedleston. His son, Ralph, was -father of Richard de Curzon, who (4 Edward III.) held three parts of a -knight’s fee at Kedleston, and was succeeded by his son, Sir Roger de -Curzon, of Kedleston, Knt., who was living _temp._ Richard I. His son, -Sir John Curzon, who was one of the King’s Council, married Eleanor, -daughter of Sir Robert Twyford, and was succeeded by his son John, -who married Margaret, daughter of Sir Nicholas de Montgomery, by whom -he had issue three sons—viz. Richard, who succeeded him; Walter, who -married Isabel, daughter of Robert Saunders, Esq., of Harrington, in -the county of Northampton, from which marriage descended the Curzons -of Water-Perry; and Henry, who was the great-grandfather of Sir Robert -Curzon, created a baron of the German empire by Maximilian in 1500, and -a baron of England by Henry VIII., but died without issue. The line of -Curzon of Water-Perry, just now alluded to, passed successively from -Walter Curzon through his son and grandson, Richard and Vincent, to Sir -Francis Curzon, Knt., who married Anne, daughter of Judge Southcote; -his son, Sir John Curzon, who married Mary, daughter of Robert, Lord -Dormer; Sir Thomas Curzon, Bart. (son of the last), who married -Elizabeth Burrow, and was created a baronet in 1661; his son, Sir John -Curzon, Bart., who was succeeded by his son, Sir Francis Curzon, Bart., -who died without surviving issue. The baronetcy thus became extinct, -the family estates of Water-Perry devolving eventually upon Francis, -Lord Teynham, who, in consequence, assumed the surname of Curzon in -addition to that of Roper. - -Richard Curzon, the eldest son and successor of John Curzon and his -wife, Margaret Montgomery (just named), was, in the 11th year of -Henry VI., Captain of Sandgate Castle, Kent, and was succeeded by -his son, John Curzon, of Kedleston. This gentleman, generally known -as “John with the white head,” was high sheriff of the counties of -Nottingham and Derby in the 15th year of Henry VI., and, four years -later, escheator for the same. He married Joan, daughter of Sir John -Bagot, by whom he had issue one son, Richard, and four daughters, -one of whom married John Ireton, of Ireton, in Derbyshire, and was -great-great-grandmother of General Henry Ireton, the celebrated -Parliamentarian officer. - -Richard Curzon married Alice Willoughby, of Wollaton, of the family -of Lord Middleton, and, dying in 1496, left issue by her, two -sons—John and Henry—and a daughter, Elizabeth, who was prioress of -King’s Mead, Derby. This John de Curzon was high sheriff on three -different occasions, and died in the 4th year of Henry VIII. He married -Elizabeth, daughter of Stephen Eyre, of Hassop, and was succeeded by -his only son and heir, Richard, who married Helen, daughter of German -Pole, of Radbourne, by whom he had issue four sons and three daughters. -The eldest son, John, dying without issue, was succeeded by his -brother Francis (aged twenty-five, 2 Edward VI.), who married Eleanor, -co-heiress of Thomas Vernon, of Stokesley, through whom a claim to the -barony of Powis was brought into the family. By this lady he had issue -four sons (from one of whom the Curzons of Minley were descended) and -two daughters. He was succeeded by his eldest son, John Curzon, who -took to wife Millicent, daughter of Sir Ralph Sacheverell, and widow -of Sir Thomas Gell, of Hopton. He was succeeded by his eldest son, Sir -John Curzon, created a baronet by Charles I. Sir John, who represented -the county of Derby in Parliament, 15 and 16 of Charles I., married -Patience, daughter of Sir Thomas Crewe, and sister of John, Lord Crewe, -of Steene, by whom he had issue four sons—John, Francis, and Thomas, -who all died without issue, and Nathaniel, who succeeded him—and three -daughters—Patience, who died unmarried; Eleanor, who married Sir John -Archer, one of the judges of the Court of Common Pleas; and Jane, who -married John Stanhope, son of Sir John Stanhope, of Elvaston, brother -of Philip, Earl of Chesterfield. - -[Illustration: _The Hall and Bridge from the Park._] - -Sir Nathaniel Curzon, Bart., succeeded his father in 1686. He married -Sarah, daughter of William Penn, of Penn, in the county of Bucks, by -whom he had issue five sons and four daughters, and died in 1718. -His sons were—Sir John, who succeeded him; Sir Nathaniel, who also -succeeded to the title and estates; Francis, who was a Turkey merchant, -and died at Aleppo unmarried; William, who represented Clitheroe in -Parliament; and Charles, LL.D. Sir John Curzon, Bart., who represented -the county of Derby in Parliament during the whole of the reign of -Queen Anne, died unmarried in 1727, when the baronetcy and estates -passed to his brother, Sir Nathaniel Curzon, who also represented, till -his death in 1758, the county of Derby in Parliament. He married Mary, -daughter and co-heiress of Sir Ralph Assheton, Bart., of Middleton, -county Lancaster, by whom he had issue three sons—-John, who died in -infancy; Nathaniel, first Baron Scarsdale; and Assheton, first Viscount -Curzon, and father of the first Earl Howe. This Assheton Curzon, -created Baron and Viscount Curzon of Penn, was member of Parliament -for Clitheroe. He married, first, Esther, daughter of William Hanmer, -Esq., by whom he had issue the Hon. Penn Assheton Curzon; secondly, -Dorothy, sister of the first Earl of Grosvenor, by whom, with other -issue, he had a son, Robert, who married the Baroness Zouche; and, -thirdly, Anna Margaretta Meredith, by whom he had no issue. The Hon. -Penn Assheton Curzon, just alluded to, eldest son of Viscount Curzon, -married Charlotte Sophia, Baroness Howe, by whom he had issue seven -sons and three daughters, the eldest of whom was Richard William Penn -Curzon-Howe, created Earl Howe, who married twice—first, the Lady -Harriet Georgiana Brudenell, daughter of the Earl of Cardigan, by whom, -with others, he had issue the late Earl Howe; and, secondly, Ann Gore, -maid of honour to Queen Adelaide, by whom also he had issue. The Earl -died in 1870, and was succeeded by his eldest son, George Augustus -Frederick Louis Curzon-Howe, as second Earl Howe, Viscount Curzon, -Baron Curzon of Penn, and Baron Howe of Langar, who was born in 1821, -and was M.P. for South Leicestershire from 1857 to the time of his -accession to the peerage. His lordship married, in 1846, Harriet Mary, -daughter of the late Henry Charles Sturt, Esq., M.P., by whom, however, -he had no issue. He died in 1876, and was succeeded by his brother, -the Hon. Richard William Penn Curzon-Howe. The present peer, who is -third Earl Howe, Viscount Curzon, Baron Curzon of Penn, and Baron Howe -of Langar, was born in 1822, and, having entered the army, became -Captain in 1844, Major 1853, Lieut.-Colonel 1854, Colonel 1857, and -Major-General 1868. Having served in the Kaffir war as Aide-de-camp to -Sir George Cathcart, and at the siege of Delhi, at which time he was -Acting Assistant Quartermaster-General, he became Military Secretary -to the Commander-in-chief in India, and was also an Aide-de-camp to -H.R.H. the Duke of Cambridge. His lordship married, in 1858, Isabella -Katherine, daughter of Major-General the Hon. George Anson, and has -issue, besides other children, a son, the Hon. George Richard Penn -Curzon-Howe, who is heir to the titles and estates. - -Sir Nathaniel Curzon died in 1758, and was succeeded by his eldest son, -Nathaniel Curzon, who, in 1761, was raised to the peerage by the style -and title of Baron Scarsdale of Scarsdale, in the county of Derby—the -title being derived from the hundred of Scarsdale in that county. His -lordship had previously married the Lady Catherine Colyear, daughter of -the Earl of Portmore, by whom he had issue five sons and one daughter. -He died in 1804, and was succeeded in his title and estates by his -eldest son, the Hon. Nathaniel Curzon, as second Lord Scarsdale. This -nobleman married, first, the Hon. Sophia Susannah Noel, sister and -co-heiress of Thomas, Viscount Wentworth, by whom (who died in 1782) he -had issue the Hon. Nathaniel, who succeeded him, and the Hon. Sophia -Caroline, who married Robert Viscount Tamworth, son of Earl Ferrars. -Lord Scarsdale married, secondly, a Roman Catholic lady, Félicité Anne -de Wattines, of Tournay, in Belgium, by whom (who died in 1850) he had, -with other issue, the Hon. and Rev. Alfred Curzon; the Hon. Francis -James Curzon, barrister-at-law; the Hon. Mary Elizabeth, married to -John Beaumont, Esq., of Barrow; and the Hon. Caroline Esther, married -to William Drury Holden, Esq., of Locko Park, in Derbyshire, who -assumed the surname of Lowe instead of that of Holden, and is well -known as William Drury Lowe, Esq. - -The Hon. Nathaniel Curzon succeeded his father as third Lord Scarsdale -in 1837, but died unmarried in 1856, when the title and estates -passed to his nephew, the present peer, the Rev. Alfred Nathaniel -Holden Curzon, second son of the Hon. and Rev. Alfred Curzon, already -mentioned. - -The Hon. and Rev. Alfred Curzon, eldest son, by his second marriage, -of the second Lord Scarsdale, was born in 1801, and married in 1825 -Sophia, daughter of Robert Holden, Esq., of Nuttall Temple, by whom he -had issue two sons—George Nathaniel Curzon, Esq., who was accidentally -killed by being thrown from his horse, and the Rev. Alfred Nathaniel -Holden Curzon, the present Lord Scarsdale—and two daughters, Sophia -Félicité Curzon and Mary Curzon, the elder being married to W. H. De -Rodes, Esq., of Barlborough Hall, and the younger to Lord Arthur Edwin -Hill-Trevor, son of the Marquis of Downshire. He died in January, 1850. - -The present peer, the Rev. Alfred Nathaniel Holden Curzon, succeeded -his uncle in the title and estates as fourth Baron Scarsdale, and as -a baronet, in 1856. His lordship, who was born in 1831, was educated -at Rugby, and at Merton College, Oxford, where he graduated B.A. in -1852, and M.A. in 1865. In 1856 he became Rector of Kedleston, and in -the same year married Blanche, second daughter of Joseph Pocklington -Senhouse, Esq., of Nether Hall, Cumberland, by whom he has issue -living—the Hon. George Nathaniel, heir-apparent, born 1859; the Hon. -Alfred Nathaniel, born 1860; the Hon. Francis Nathaniel, born 1865; -the Hon. Assheton Nathaniel, born 1867; the Hon. Sophia Caroline, born -1857; the Hon. Blanche Felicia, born 1861; the Hon. Eveline Mary, born -1864; the Hon. Elinor Florence, born 1869; the Hon. Geraldine Emily, -born 1871; and the Hon. Margaret Georgiana, born 1874. Lady Scarsdale -died in 1875. His lordship is patron of five livings (viz. Kedleston, -Quarndon, Mickleover, and Littleover, in Derbyshire, and Worthington, -in Leicestershire), and is a magistrate for the county of Derby. - -[Illustration: _Arms of Scarsdale._] - -The arms of Lord Scarsdale are—_argent_, on a bend, _sable_, three -popinjays, _or_, collared, _gules_. Crest—a popinjay rising, wings -displayed and inverted, _or_, collared, _gules_. Supporters—dexter, -a female figure representing Prudence, habited, _argent_, mantled, -_azure_, holding in her sinister hand a javelin, entwined with a -remora, _proper_; sinister, a female figure representing Liberality, -habited, _argent_, mantled, _purpure_, holding in both hands a -cornucopia, resting against her shoulder, _proper_. Motto—“Recte et -suaviter.” - -The title of “Scarsdale” had previously been held by the family -of Leake, but had become extinct. The Leakes were descended from -Adam de Leca, of Leak, in Nottinghamshire, who was living in 1141. -William Leake, or Leke, who settled at Sutton-in-the-Dale, or, as it -is frequently called, Sutton-Scarsdale, in Derbyshire, early in the -fifteenth century, was a younger son of Sir John Leake, of Gotham. -One of his descendants, Sir Francis Leke, Knt., married one of the -co-heiresses of Swift, of Rotherham, and by her had issue a son, -Francis Leke, who, on the institution of the order of baronetcy, was -created a baronet in 1611. In 1624 he was created Baron Deincourt -of Sutton, and, having taken an active part for the King during the -civil wars, was in 1645 raised to the dignity of Earl of Scarsdale. -He married Anne, daughter of Sir Edward Carey, Knt., and had issue -by her—Nicholas, his successor; Francis, Edward, and Charles, slain -in battle; and six daughters, one of whom was married to Viscount -Gormanston, and another to Charles, Lord Lucas. His lordship felt -the execution of his royal master, Charles I., so acutely, that he -clothed himself in sackcloth, and, causing his grave to be dug some -years before his death, laid himself in it every Friday for divine -meditation and prayer. He died in 1665, and was succeeded by his son -Nicholas as second Earl of Scarsdale and Baron Deincourt. This nobleman -married Lady Frances Rich, daughter of the Earl of Warwick, and died -in 1680. His eldest son, Robert, succeeded to the titles and estates, -and having married Mary, one of the co-heiresses of Sir John Lewis, was -made Lord-Lieutenant of Derbyshire, Colonel of Horse, and Groom of the -Stole to Prince George of Denmark. Dying in 1707, he was succeeded, -as fourth Earl of Scarsdale and Baron Deincourt, by his nephew, Sir -Nicholas Leke, who, dying unmarried in 1736, the titles, including the -baronetcy, became extinct. - -[Illustration: _Arms of Leke._] - -The old hall of Kedleston, the ancient residence of the Curzon family -for many generations, stood nearly on the site occupied by the present -magnificent mansion. It was a fine quadrangular brick building of three -stories in height, the entrance being under an advanced balustraded -portico of three arches. Adjoining the house were training paddocks -and all the appliances for the stud which was kept up. Of this house, -fortunately, a painting is preserved in the present mansion. Not so -of the still older house, of which no representation appears to be -remaining. It must, however, judging from the records of the armorial -bearings which decorated its stained-glass windows when the survey -was made in 1667, have been a building possessed of many noticeable -features. In the north window of the hall of 1677 we find recorded -some of the bearings of the most distinguished families of the time, -which seem to throw a strong light on the connections of the Curzon -family. Among the arms, either alone or quartered or impaled, were, it -seems, in the north window of the hall, Curzon, Twyford, Arden, Bek -or Beke, Gresley, Wasteneys, Chandos of Radborne, Talbot, Furnival, -and Montgomery of Cubley; in the south windows those of Curzon and -Bagot; in another window those of Curzon, Vernon, Ludlow, Poole or -Pole, and the device of the House of Lancaster; at the upper end of the -hall, Curzon and Pole with Pole’s quarterings, Curzon alone, Curzon -and Vernon with Vernon’s quarterings, and Curzon and Sacheverell -with Sacheverell’s quarterings. About the room the following coats -were irregularly dispersed—viz. Sacheverell, Vernon, Pole, Bagot, -Montgomery, Ireton, Minors, Curzon, Twyford, and Brailsford; and on the -inside of the large chimney of the Buttery were Touchet, Lord Audley -of Marston, Erm, a chevron and lion rampt, but the colours gone, and -Latimer or Greville (a cross fleury), and Frecheville. On the outside -of the same chimney, a saltier without colour; Montgomery as before; -a border of horse-shoes, probably Ferrers; Griffith of Whichnor, &c. -These were presumed to be about the date of Henry IV., and the door was -supposed at that time to be at least three hundred years old. - -The old hall and the venerable church are said to have stood about the -centre of the then village of Kedleston, and a corn-mill was near. The -whole of the village, every house and every vestige of habitation, -the “small inn for the accommodation of those who came to drink of a -medicinal well, which has the virtues of the Harrogate water,” the -corn-mill, and the old hall itself, were removed by the first Lord -Scarsdale to make room for the present mansion, which he erected in -1765: the church alone remained. The village was removed to a charming -spot a short distance off; the corn-mill was taken away; the stream -which turned its wheel was converted into the magnificent lake that -forms so fine a feature in the present park; the turnpike-road was -removed to a distance of more than half a mile; and the “small inn” was -replaced by the present capacious Kedleston Inn, some three-quarters of -a mile away from its original site. - -The present edifice was built from the designs of Robert Adam, one -of the architect brothers of the Adelphi, and is considered to -be his masterpiece. It consists of a noble central pile with two -advanced wings or pavilions, with which it is connected by two curved -corridors. The principal or north front has a grand central portico, -the entablature and pediment of which are supported by six magnificent -columns, 30 feet high, and 3 feet in diameter: some of these are -composed of one single stone their entire length. They are designed -from those at the Pantheon at Rome. The entrance in the portico is -approached by a double or reflected flight of stone steps, which again -are marvellous for the size of the stones: they are 10 feet in length, -and each stone forms two steps. The pediment is surmounted by figures -of Venus, Bacchus, and Ceres, and the sculptured _bassi-relievi_ -(by Collins) represent vintage, pasturage, harvest, ploughing, and -boar-hunting; while within the porticos are statues of a Bacchante, two -of the Muses, and a Vestal. The Arcade, leading to Cæsar’s Hall, and -the Corridors, are designed from the Amphitheatre. The Grand Entrance -is in the centre of the portico, and opens at once into the Great Hall. - -[Illustration: _The North Front._] - -The Great Hall, a noble room, and one of the finest classical -apartments in existence in the purity of its style, the beauty of its -details, and the perfection of its proportions, is about 67 feet in -length by 42 feet in width, and 40 feet in height. The vaulted ceiling -rises to the full height of the house, and is supported on twenty -fluted Corinthian columns 25 feet in height, and 2 feet 6 inches in -diameter. These columns, which are “the glory of Kedleston,” are -of native alabaster from Red Hill, in Leicestershire. The Hall is -decorated with paintings and sculpture, the whole being classical, -and in perfect keeping with the design of the building itself. The -subjects of the _chiaro-oscuro_ paintings on the east side are—“Helen -reproaching Paris, and silenced by Venus,” “Achilles receiving Armour -from Thetis,” “Achilles delivering his Armour to Patroclus,” and -“Mercury, Juno, and Neptune before Jupiter;” on the west side, “Helen -and Paris,” “The Judgment of Paris,” “Hector and Andromache,” and -“Juno and Minerva.” At the ends are “Apollo and the Hours,” “Night -distributing her Poppies,” and “Sacrifices to Sylvanus, Diana, Apollo, -and Mars.” Over the doors are four marriage subjects. The statues -are Apollo Belvedere, Meleager, Idol, Venus, Faun, Apollo Vil. Med., -Urania, Faun, Venus, Ganymede, Antinous, and Mercury. From the Hall the -Dining-room is entered on the right, the Music-room on the left, and -the Saloon at the south end. - -[Illustration: _The Great Hall._] - -Our account of the principal rooms must necessarily be very brief. It -is enough to say that they are all fitted and finished in the most -exquisite taste and in the most sumptuous manner, and are hung, or -rather decorated—for the greater part of the pictures are let into -the walls, as a part of the original design—with one of the best -collections of paintings any house can boast. - -The Music-room, a remarkably elegant apartment, contains many notable -pictures, especially an “Old Man’s Head” by Rembrandt, Giordano’s -“Triumph of Bacchus,” Guido’s “Bacchus and Ariadne,” Guercino’s -“David’s Triumph,” and Leonardo da Vinci’s “Holy Family.” The -chimney-piece contains a beautiful bas-relief by Spang. The Corridor -and Corridor Staircase also contain many choice pictures. - -The Drawing-room is a gorgeous apartment, hung with blue damask. -It is 44 feet in length and 28 feet in width and height, and has a -beautiful coved ceiling. The door-cases are finished with Corinthian -columns of Derbyshire alabaster, and the chimney-piece of Italian -marble is supported by two exquisitely sculptured whole-length female -figures. The furniture, especially the couches, is of the most gorgeous -character—the carved and gilt figures and foliage being in the very -highest and purest style of Art. The paintings in this room include -splendid examples by Annibale Carracci, Paul Veronese, old Francks, -Breughel, Teniers, Cuyp, Mompert, Andrea del Sarto, Domenichino, -Raffaelle, Swanevelt, Guido Reni, Benedetto Luti, Polemberg, Bernardo -Strozzi, Claude Lorraine, Tintoretto, Parmigiano, and others of the old -masters. - -The Library—a noble room fitted with mahogany book-cases, a Doric -entablature, and mosaic ceiling—contains among its pictures Vandyke’s -“Shakspere,” Rembrandt’s “Daniel interpreting to Nebuchadnezzar,” and -examples of Giordano, Carlo Loti, Drost, Michael Angelo, Salvator Rosa, -Poussin, and others. It also contains busts of Homer, Sappho, Socrates, -Virgil, Anacreon, Pindar, and Horace. - -The Saloon is a grand circular apartment, 42 feet in diameter, and 63 -feet high to the rose in the dome. It is considered, and truly, to be -one of the most beautiful rooms of its kind in Europe. Its decorations -are interesting from the classic taste displayed in designing them, -and the elegance with which they are executed. It is divided into four -recesses, or alcoves, having fire-places representing altars, with -sphinxes, &c., adorned with classical figures in bas-relief; these -alternate with as many doors; the whole painted and ornamented with -white and gold. Over the doors are paintings of ruins by Hamilton (the -frames representing the supporters of the family arms), and above the -recesses are delineations in _chiaro-oscuro_ by Rebecca—the subjects -from English history. The pillars, of scagliola marble, are by Bartoli. -The dome is white and gold, finished in octagonal compartments with -roses. The candle branches are of peculiar elegance, and beneath them -is a charming series of exquisite bas-reliefs of Cupids, &c. The Saloon -opens on its respective sides into the Great Hall, the Library, the -Ante-chamber, and the south or garden front of the hall. From the -ante-chamber, in which are Carlo Maratti’s “St. John” and many other -valuable paintings, is reached— - -[Illustration: _The Saloon._] - -The Principal Dressing-room, hung with blue damask, which contains, -among others, life-size portraits of the first Lord and Lady Scarsdale -by Hone; the second Lord Scarsdale by Reinagle, and his first wife -by Hone; Charles I. by Vandyke; Prince Rupert’s daughter by Kneller; -Prince Henry by Jansen; Prior by Kneller; and other paintings by Lely, -Vandyke, Cimaroli, and others. - -The State Bed-room is hung with blue damask, and contains a remarkably -fine assemblage of family portraits, landscapes, and other pictures, -among which are Sir Nathaniel and Lady Curzon by Richardson; Duchess of -York by Lely; and the Countess of Dorset, daughter of George Curzon, -after Mytens. - -The Wardrobe, which adjoins, is principally remarkable for a fine -collection of thirty-six ancient enamels after Albert Dürer, -representing the life of our Saviour, and for the many fine family -portraits and other paintings which it contains. Among these are—Lady -Curzon and her sons, by Dobbs; Countess of Dorchester, by Kneller; the -wife and child of Quentin Matsys, by himself; Hon. Caroline Curzon, by -Angelica Kauffmann; Hon. H. Curzon, by Hamilton; family portraits, by -Hone and Barber; the “Nativity” and the “Resurrection,” by Murillo; and -the first Lady Scarsdale, by Hudson. - -The Dining-room is of faultless proportions, and its fittings—all -precisely as originally planned by the architect—are in the best and -purest taste. The ceiling is magnificently painted in compartments by -Zucchi. The centre represents “Love embracing Fortune;” the oblong -squares, the four Seasons; and the small circles, Europe, Asia, Africa, -and America. In front of the recessed sideboard is a magnificent -cistern, or cooler, cut out of a solid block of Sicilian jasper; and -among the pictures are examples of Snyders, Zuccarelli, Ciro Ferri, -Claude Lorraine, Jean Fyt, Romanelli, Helmbrecker, and others, and -bas-reliefs by Collins and Spang. - -On the Great Staircase are also many choice paintings (including, among -others, examples of Carlo Maratti, Hamilton, and old Stone, and some -fine statues and candelabra), while in the family wing of the house—in -Lady Scarsdale’s Boudoir, the Ante-room, the Breakfast-room, and the -other apartments—the assemblage of works of Art is very extensive -and valuable. In the Corridor, too, are some good paintings, and many -articles of _virtu_; while in the chimney-piece is an extremely fine -plaque of Wedgwood’s jasper-ware. - -The opposite wing is occupied by the Kitchen—a noble apartment with -a gallery at one end, supported on Doric columns, and having over its -fire-place the admirable motto, “Waste not, want not”—and the other -domestic offices. - -Cæsar’s Hall is the basement story beneath the portico, and is -decorated with busts of the Cæsars, and medallions of Homer, Hesiod, -Horace, and Tully; and in the Tetrastyle Hall, the staircases, and -other parts of the building, are numerous works of Art of one kind or -other. - -The Garden Front, shown in the opposite engraving, is an adaptation of -an idea taken from the design of the Arch of Constantine. The statues -in the niches are Flora Farnese and an antique Bacchus. Over the -pillars are medallions of Apollo and Diana, and the statues above are -the Pastoral and the Comic Muses, Prudence, and Diana. By the steps are -the Medicean and Borghese vases. - -[Illustration: _The South or Garden Front._] - -The entrance to the noble park of Kedleston is by a lodge, designed -by Adams from the Arch of Octavia. From it the drive to the house -is about a mile in length, amidst the finest forest trees, beneath -which hundreds of deer browse in every direction. Nearing the house, -the drive is carried over the magnificent lake on a bridge of purely -classical design, enriched by statuary; and from it one of the finest -views of the mansion and its surroundings is obtained. Near to the -drive is a charmingly picturesque fountain, whose waters are constantly -flowing through a lion’s mouth. - -In the park are the medicinal springs known as “Kedleston Baths,” over -which a plain, but picturesque, building was erected many years ago. -The waters are the best of the sulphureous springs of Derbyshire, -and approach closely, on analysis, to those of Harrogate. They were -formerly in much repute, and years ago it was quite a trade for the -poor people of Derby to fetch these waters to the town, where they -were sold at a penny per quart, and were drunk in place of malt liquor -by many of the inhabitants. Kedleston, in the latter part of last -century, was, indeed, a very favourite resort with the Derby people, -as is evidenced by the following curious advertisement of the year -1776:—“Kedleston Fly. Twice a day during the Summer Season. Will set -out on Monday next, the 20th inst., from John Campion’s, the Bell Inn, -in Sadler-gate, Derby; each person to pay One Shilling and Sixpence. A -good Ordinary is provided each day at Kedleston Inn. If desired, the -coach may be had from nine in the morning till two in the afternoon.” -At Quarn, or Quarndon, about a mile distant, is another medicinal -spring—this time of chalybeate waters, which were, and yet are, with -those of Kedleston, much esteemed. - -Of the fine old oaks in Kedleston Park it is enough to say they are -among the largest and most picturesque in the kingdom, the “King Oak” -being twenty-two feet in circumference at the bole, and the “Queen Oak” -nearly as much—a truly stately and royal pair. Many others are also -enormous in girth and stature. Of these oaks the Hon. Grantley Berkeley -thus graphically writes:—“In the park and vale of Berkeley, as well -as in the Forest of Dean, I have been used to view the oak-tree in -perfection, as well as in gigantic decay, as in the case at Berkeley -of ‘King William’s Oak,’ at the entrance to the park, set down as that -tree was, and is now, in Domesday Book as a tree then so much larger -than its fellows as to be selected in the survey as a mark for the -parish or hundred of Berkeley. With all this timber lore, however, the -tall oaks of Kedleston Hall astonished me, not in a few instances, -but in hundreds, or indeed all over the park. Timber of all kinds -stood on those emerald undulations (for never was a park or pasture -greener), valued by their proprietor as much for intrinsic worth as -for picturesque beauty, honoured in age, as they had been spared when -from their ranks might have been hewn a fortune. So struck was I with -the invariable size of these trees, that while casting a curious eye -through the herds of deer to make myself acquainted with the best buck -in that early season, destined for a trial of Pape’s breech-loading -rifle—which had been returned to his hands to be rearranged after -the trick it played me in the forest of Lord Breadalbane some time -ago—I could not help stepping their circumference at the roots -of some of them, the extent of which was as follows. The oaks very -commonly reached to fourteen yards where they entered the ground, and -ranged from that to fifteen and seventeen yards; while the ‘King Oak,’ -standing by his ‘Queen’ of nearly the same size, measured twenty-two -yards where it sought the earth. Three feet from the ground the girth -of this monarch of the forest is twenty-five feet nine inches, and the -timber contained in the tree is calculated at from eleven hundred to -twelve hundred feet. The extraordinary beauty of these oaks—and their -name, so to speak, is legion—lies in their immensely tall straight -growth from the ground, scarcely ever putting forth a limb within reach -of my upstretched hand. The same luxuriant fact in this enchanting park -exists with all kinds of trees, and some of the broad-leafed elms round -whose boles I stepped measured fifteen yards. Lord Scarsdale takes -beautiful care of his trees, and when some high wind tears down a huge -arm from his favourites, the splinters are all sawn smoothly off from -the stem, and the wound is capped with lead to prevent the entrance of -water.” - -And now for a word or two on the Church, which is one of the most -charming old buildings in the country. Long may it be kept from the -hands of the “restorer!” The edifice is cruciform, consisting of a -nave, chancel, north and south transepts, and central tower—the -south transept being the mortuary chapel of the Curzons. The south -doorway of the nave is early Norman, with beak-head mouldings and a -sculptured tympanum; and the “priest’s door” in the chancel is equally -interesting, although of later date. - -In the chancel is a remarkably fine monument to Sir Nathaniel Curzon, -Bart., who died in 1758, aged eighty-four, designed by Robert Adam, -the architect of Kedleston, and executed by Michael Rysbrach in 1763; -and another monument erected in 1737 to Sir Nathaniel Curzon, and Dame -Sarah, his wife, daughter of William Penn, Esq. There are also a fine, -but partially mutilated, brass to an early Curzon, and an incised slab -to William Curzon, 1544. The east window of stained glass, “In Memory -of George Nathaniel Curzon, born Oct. 1826; died June 17, 1855,” is of -beautiful design. In the floor of the chancel, on removing two massive -circular pieces of wood mounted with rings, about a foot below the -surface, each within a deeply cut quatrefoil, are the heads of a knight -in armour and of a lady in veil and whimple. There is no inscription -connected with these extremely curious and unusual monuments, but they -most probably represent a knight and lady of the Curzon family. - -[Illustration: _Kedleston Church, from the West._] - -In the Curzon Chapel, south transept, are fine old monuments, some of -which are shown in the opposite engraving. One of these is a knight -and lady on an altar tomb, the knight in plate armour with collar of -SS, and the other the monument of a knight, also in collar of SS. -Besides these are monuments and tablets to Sir John Curzon and Patience -Crewe, his wife, 1604; Sir John Curzon, 1727; Nathaniel, second Lord -Scarsdale, 1837, and his lady, 1850; and many others to different -members of the family, besides a fine canopy of a “founder’s tomb.” - -The Church closely adjoins the hall, from which there is an entrance -into the churchyard. At the east end of the Church is a quaintly -curious sundial, bearing, above the dial itself, the words _We shall_, -and thus reading— - - WE SHALL - DIAL - -(the latter word, of course, not being there, but implied by the dial -itself): the meaning is, “We shall die all,” or, “We shall all die.” - -[Illustration: _Kedleston Church, Interior._] - -Not far from Kedleston are the picturesque ruins of Mackworth Castle, -the ancient stronghold of the De Mackworths, and in its neighbourhood -are Quarndon, with its medicinal springs; Markeaton Hall, the seat of -the Mundys; Kirk Ireton, famous as the place from whence the two great -Parliamentary officers, General Ireton and Colonel Sanders, sprang; -Duffield, once the stronghold and seat of the Norman family of Ferrars, -Earls of Derby; Mugginton, anciently the seat of the Knivetons; and -many other places of note. - - - - -AUDLEY END. - -OF the earlier life of Sir Thomas Audley, the founder of Audley End, -or of the family from which he sprang, but little is known. His rise -was rapid, as his rapacity was great, and, like others in the very -extraordinary times in which he lived, he fawned on his sovereign -and preyed on the possessions of others until he had raised himself -to a high position. “Thomas Audley,” says a writer in 1711, “being -a sedulous student in the law, became Autumne Reader to the Inner -Temple, temp. Henry VIII., and was after chosen Speaker of the House -of Commons, in the 21st of Henry VIII. In which station (this being -the parliament that gave the finishing hand to the dissolution of -monasteries) he was so acceptable to the king that he at first made -him Attorney of the Duchy of Lancaster, next Serjeant-at-Law, being -after the King’s Own Serjeant; and upon the resignation of the Lord -Chancellor More, he was knighted, made Lord Keeper of the Great Seal, -and, before the end of the year, Lord Chancellor of England. And the -30th of Henry VIII. sat as Steward upon the arraignment of Henry -Courtney, Marquis of Exeter, for endeavouring to advance Cardinal Pole -to the crown. And subtilly, at length, obtaining the great Abbey of -Walden, in Essex, he was, in the 30th of Henry VIII., created Lord -Audley of Walden, and died the 35th of Henry VIII., leaving issue by -Elizabeth his wife, daughter of Thomas Grey, Marquis of Dorset, only -two daughters his heirs—Mary, who died unmarried; and Margaret, who -became his sole heir, first married to the Lord Henry Dudley, and after -to Thomas, Duke of Norfolk, as second wife, whose son by her, Thomas, -Earl of Suffolk, Lord Treasurer of England, built upon the ruines of -the abby that stately fabrick at Walden, call’d Audley-End, in memory -of this Lord Audley.” - -Thomas Audley, who, as has just been stated, was the principal agent -in the great work of spoliation, the dissolution of monasteries, -was rewarded for his zeal by grant after grant from the spoils, and -yet was always, as is shown by his letters, whining and craving for -more. The rich priory of Christchurch, Aldgate, London, “with all the -church plate and lands belonging to that house, was first granted to -him; and afterwards many portions of the estates previously belonging -to the lesser religious houses of Essex, with licenses to alienate -them, of which he duly availed himself. Thus St. Botolph’s Priory, at -Colchester, with all its revenues, the Priory of the Crutched Friars, -in the same town, and Tiltey Abbey, near Thaxted, were added to the -list of his monastic spoils, after the gifts from the king, in 1538, -on Sir Thomas’s application, of the rich Abbey of Walden, with all the -estates, manors, and advowsons thereunto attached. He was also created -Lord Audley of Walden, and installed a Knight of the Garter. Yet,” -says the late Lord Braybrooke, “instead of Audley being contented with -these repeated marks of the royal favour, we are compelled to admit -that every grant which he obtained encouraged him to importune the king -for further recompense; and his letters, preserved in the Cottonian -Library, prove that, in making these applications, he was mean enough -to plead poverty as an excuse, and even to assert that his character -had suffered in consequence of the public services which he had been -obliged to perform.” - -Lord Audley, at his death in 1544, left two daughters, his -co-heiresses; but the younger one dying in 1546, the eldest, Margaret -Audley, became sole heiress to the estates. This lady was married -twice: first, at the age of fourteen, to Lord Henry Dudley, younger -brother to Lord Guildford Dudley, husband of the unfortunate Lady -Jane Grey, by whom she had no issue; and secondly, in 1557, to Thomas -Howard, fourth Duke of Norfolk, as his second wife. She thus, the -daughter of one of the most aspiring men of the time, became allied to -the two most powerful and ambitious families in the kingdom—those of -Northumberland and Howard. By this second marriage, Margaret Audley -(who died when only at the age of twenty-three) became the mother of -two sons—Lord Thomas Howard, afterwards created Earl of Suffolk, of -whom we shall speak presently, and Lord William Howard, ancestor of the -Earls of Carlisle, &c.—and two daughters, Elizabeth, who died in her -infancy, and Margaret, who became the wife of Robert Sackville, Earl of -Dorset. - - -[Illustration: _The Lodge._] - -The elder of these sons, Thomas Howard, inherited Audley End and the -other family estates from his mother. Having, by Act of Parliament, -27th of Elizabeth, been restored in blood, he was, in 1588, knighted -for his gallant behaviour in the engagement with the Spanish Armada, -and in 1597 was created Baron Howard of Walden. “He was a brave -sea officer, and successively employed upon many trying occasions, -sometimes as chief, sometimes as second in command, during that -reign, and in particular contributed greatly to the reduction of the -town and castle of Cadiz.” In 1597 he was installed Knight of the -Garter, and, according to some accounts, was made Constable of the -Tower. On the accession of James I., Lord Howard was, in 1603, sworn -a Privy Councillor, created Earl of Suffolk, and made one of the -Commissioners for the office of Earl Marshal. In 1608 he was appointed -Lord Chamberlain, and in 1614 Lord High Treasurer of England. He it -was who, with Lord Monteagle, made the discovery of the Gunpowder Plot -while performing the routine business pertaining to his office of Lord -High Chamberlain on the 4th of November, 1605. - -[Illustration: _The West Front._] - -Lord Suffolk was married twice: first, to Mary, sister and co-heiress -of Thomas, Lord Dacres of Gillesland, by whom he had no issue; and, -secondly, to Elizabeth, daughter and co-heiress of Sir Henry Knevett, -of Charlton, and widow of Richard, eldest son of Lord Rich, by whom he -had four daughters—viz. Elizabeth, who married successively William -Knolles, Earl of Banbury, and Edward, Lord Vaux; Frances, married first -to Robert Devereux, Earl of Essex, from whom she was divorced, and next -to Robert Carr, Earl of Somerset, Margaret; and Catherine, married to -William Cecil, Earl of Salisbury—and eight sons, viz. Theophilus, who -succeeded him; Sir Thomas, who was created Earl of Berkshire, and is -the direct ancestor of the present Earl of Suffolk and Berkshire—the -earldom of Suffolk having reverted to this branch in 1733—whose -descendants later on succeeded to the titles; Henry, who married -Elizabeth Bassett, of Blore, by whom he had a daughter, Elizabeth, who -became successively the wife of Sir John Howard, of Swarkeston, in -Derbyshire, and of William Cavendish, Duke of Newcastle; Sir Charles; -Sir Robert, “a gallant cavalier soldier, was but too notorious in his -own day for his intrigue with the Viscountess Purbeck, the beautiful -and ill-assorted daughter of the Chief Justice Coke;” Sir William; Sir -John; and Sir Edward, who was created Baron Howard of Escrick. - -The first Earl of Suffolk built the magnificent mansion of Audley -End, over which he is stated to have expended the enormous sum, for -those days, of more than £190,000. It is said of him that although he -had, from his many high and lucrative offices and his large estates, -more ample means of displaying his magnificence than had any of his -ancestors, he eclipsed them all in extravagance and show. His wife, -Lady Suffolk, too, “was unfortunately a woman of a covetous mind, and -having too great an ascendancy over her husband, used it in making him -a party to her extortions on persons who had business to transact at -the Treasury, or places to obtain at Court; and her husband was charged -with embezzlement, deprived of his office, and fined £30,000, but which -was reduced by the King to £7,000. He was generally considered to have -been chiefly guilty in concealing the malpractices of his wife, who -eventually died in debt and difficulty.” Probably one great reason for -these things being laid to his charge was that, through having for -a son-in-law the fallen and disgraced courtier Robert Carr, Earl of -Somerset, he had become obnoxious to the new favourite, Buckingham, -through whose influence it appears he and his countess were, for a -short time, committed to the Tower. He died at Suffolk House (where -Suffolk Street, Strand, now stands), in 1626, and was buried at Walden. -He was succeeded by his eldest son, Theophilus Howard (who during his -father’s lifetime had been summoned to Parliament as Lord Howard of -Walden) as second Earl of Suffolk. He was a Knight of the Garter, Lord -Warden, Chancellor, and Admiral of the Cinque Ports, Constable of Dover -Castle, &c., and married Elizabeth, daughter and co-heiress of the Earl -of Dunbar, by whom he had issue four sons and five daughters, three of -the sons becoming successively Earls of Suffolk. - -He was succeeded by his son James (third Earl of Suffolk), who, like -his father, for a time resided at Audley End in quiet retirement. The -cost of the building had so greatly involved the first earl that, at -the time of his committal to the Tower, he was about £40,000 in debt, -although he had then but recently sold the Charter House to Mr. Sutton -for £13,000, and his property at Aynhoe, in Northamptonshire, for a -considerable sum. The charges thus entailed on the estate, and the cost -of maintaining it, so affected his successors that they were unable to -support an establishment commensurate with the size and magnificence of -the house. After the Restoration, Earl James, therefore, gladly took -the opportunity which offered of selling the park and mansion of Audley -End to the King, Charles II. - -The purchase-money of this estate (which, as already stated, in -building alone had cost £190,000) was £50,000, of which but £30,000 was -paid by the King, the remaining £20,000 being left on mortgage. This -was in 1666, and in 1670 the Court was regularly established at Audley -End; the Queen very frequently resided there; and, being convenient for -Newmarket, festivities were kept up on a large scale. - -After the sale of the house, the Earl of Suffolk and his successor, -the fourth earl, resided in comparative retirement, Audley End being, -by the King, “committed to the charge of one of the family, who held -the office of housekeeper and keeper of the wardrobe, with a salary; -and this arrangement continued till 1701, when the house and park were -reconveyed” back to the Suffolk family. The £20,000 left on mortgage -continued unpaid by the King at the revolution of 1688, “nor is it -clear that any interest had ever been paid upon it” during the many -years it had remained. In 1701, therefore, the demesne was, as just -stated, conveyed back to the Howards, the fifth Earl of Suffolk, on -receiving it, relinquishing his claim on the Crown for the debt. - -[Illustration: _East Front, from the Garden._] - -James, the third Earl of Suffolk, already spoken of, married, first, -Susan, daughter of the Earl of Holland, by whom he had an only -daughter, Essex, married to Edward, Lord Griffin of Braybrooke; -secondly, Barbara, daughter of Sir Edward Villiers and widow of Sir -Richard Wenman, by whom he had a daughter, who became the wife of -Sir Thomas Felton; and, thirdly, to Anne, daughter of the Earl of -Manchester, by whom he had no issue. Dying in 1688, he was succeeded -by his brother, George Howard, as fourth earl, who enjoyed the title -only three years; when, dying without surviving male issue, he was -succeeded by his brother, Henry Howard, as fifth earl. This nobleman -married twice: first, Mary, daughter of Lord Castle Stewart, by whom -(besides a daughter) he had three sons—Henry, Edward, and Charles—who -each successively became Earl of Suffolk; and, secondly, the widow of -Sir John Maynard, by whom he had no issue. He died in 1709, and was -succeeded by his eldest son, Henry Howard, created in his father’s -lifetime Baron Chesterford and Earl of Bindon, who was succeeded by -his eldest son, Charles William, as seventh Earl of Suffolk, and -second Earl of Bindon and Baron of Chesterford. He married Elizabeth, -daughter of Sir Thomas Astrey, but had no issue; and, dying in 1721-2, -the titles of Baron of Bindon and Earl of Chesterford became extinct, -while those of Earl of Suffolk and Baron Howard of Walden passed to his -father’s brother Edward, and, at his death, to _his_ brother Charles, -as ninth earl. He dying in 1733, left one only son, Henry Howard, who -thus became tenth Earl of Suffolk. This tenth earl married Sarah, -daughter of Thomas Irwin, but died without issue in 1745, his widow -afterwards becoming the wife of Viscount Falkland. - -On the death of the tenth earl, the title of Earl of Suffolk, &c., -passed to his distant relative, Henry Bowes Howard, Earl of Berkshire, -Viscount Andover, &c., who, descended from Sir Thomas Howard, second -son of the first Earl of Suffolk, was direct ancestor of the present -Earl of Suffolk and Berkshire, the barony of Howard de Walden remaining -in abeyance between the descendants of the two co-heiresses of the -third earl. - -These were, as already shown, Essex, wife of Edward, Lord Griffin -of Braybrooke, and Elizabeth, wife of Sir Thomas Felton. The -representatives of the elder of these were the Hon. Elizabeth Griffin, -married, first, to Henry Neville Grey, and, secondly, to the Earl -of Portsmouth; and her sister, Ann, wife of William Whitwell. Lady -Portsmouth having no issue by either of her husbands, the real descent -lay with the son of Mrs. Whitwell, in whose favour the abeyance -terminated, and who thus became Lord Howard of Walden. The possession -of the Audley End estates was disputed by Thomas Howard, second Earl -of Effingham, who claimed under a settlement in his favour, made by -the seventh Earl of Suffolk, who, however, having been proved to have -himself only been a tenant for life, the claim was disallowed, and -the estates passed to Lady Portsmouth, from whom, by bequest, they -ultimately came to John Griffin Whitwell, Lord Howard of Walden. - -This nobleman was created Baron Braybrooke in 1788, with remainder to -his relative, Richard Neville, whose father, Richard Aldworth, was -maternally descended from the Nevilles; and, dying without issue, -the title of Lord Howard of Walden passed to a distant descendant of -that family. He was succeeded, as second Baron Braybrooke, in 1797, -by this Richard Neville, who assumed the name of Griffin. He married, -in 1780, Catherine, daughter of the Right Hon. George Grenville, who -was maternally descended from Theophilus, second Earl of Suffolk, -and sister of the first Marquis of Buckingham, and had by her, -besides other issue, the Hon. Richard, who succeeded him, and who, by -arrangement with the deceased peer’s only sister and heiress (wife of -the Rev. Dr. Parker), obtained immediate possession of the mansion and -unentailed portion of the estate, the other portion coming to him at -the death, without issue, of that lady. - -[Illustration: _South Front._] - -Richard, third Baron Braybrooke, born in 1783, succeeded his father -in 1825, and married the Lady Jane, eldest daughter of Charles, -Marquis Cornwallis, by whom he had issue five sons—Richard Cornwallis -Neville, Charles Cornwallis Neville, Henry Aldworth Neville, Rev. -Latimer Neville (now Master of Magdalen College, Cambridge, and -heir-presumptive to the title), and Grey Neville—and three daughters. -Lord Braybrooke was well known as the author of the “History of Audley -End,” and as the editor of the “Diary and Correspondence of Samuel -Pepys.” He was succeeded by his eldest son, Richard Cornwallis Neville -(better known as the Hon. R. C. Neville), as fourth Baron Braybrooke. -This nobleman, who was born in 1820, was an eminent antiquary, and was -author of several important works. He was educated at Eton, and in -1837 entered the army, serving in Canada till 1838. Ill-health, which -continued throughout his life, compelled him to retire from the army -in 1841, and he devoted himself thenceforward to the study of history -and antiquities. He became a Fellow of the Society of Antiquaries, -a member of other learned bodies, and contributed many papers to -the _Archæologia_ and to the _Transactions of the Archæological -Association_ and _Institute_. Having undertaken and carried out some -important excavations at Chesterford, &c., he published his “Antiqua -Explorata,” which afterwards he followed by another volume, “Sepulchra -Exposita.” In 1852 he issued his great work, “Saxon Obsequies;” and, -later still, the “Romance of the Ring; or, the History and Antiquity -of Finger Rings.” His lordship married, in 1852, the Lady Charlotte -Sarah Graham Toler, sixth daughter of the second Earl of Norbury (who -afterwards married Frederick Hetley, Esq., and died in 1867), by -whom he left two daughters, and, dying in 1861, was succeeded by his -brother, the Hon. Charles Cornwallis Neville, the present peer. - -Charles Cornwallis Neville, fifth Baron Braybrooke, was born in 1823, -and educated at Eton and at Magdalen College, Cambridge, of which he -is Hereditary Visitor. In 1849 he married the Hon. Florence Priscilla -Alicia Maude, third daughter of the third Viscount Hawarden, by whom -he has issue one daughter, the Hon. Augusta Neville, born 1860. The -heir-presumptive to the title is, therefore, his brother, the Rev. -Latimer Neville, Master of Magdalen College, Cambridge, and Chaplain -to the Bishop of Rochester, who is married to Lucy Frances, eldest -daughter of John Le Marchant, Esq., by whom he has issue. - -Lord Braybrooke is patron of seven livings—viz. Arborfield, Waltham -St. Lawrence, and Wargrave, in Berkshire; Shadingfield, in Sussex; -and Littlebury, Saffron Walden, and Heydon, in Essex. His arms -are—quarterly, first and fourth, _gules_, on a saltire, _argent_, -a rose of the field; second and third, _or_, fretty, _gules_, on a -canton of the first, a lymphad, _sable_. Crests—first, a rose, seeded -and barbed, _proper_; second, out of a ducal coronet, _or_, a bull’s -head; third, a portcullis, _proper_. Supporters—two lions reguardant, -_argent_, maned, _sable_, gorged with wreaths of olive, _proper_. -Motto—“Ne vile velis.” - -[Illustration: _The Entrance Porch, West Front._] - -The history of Audley End has been pretty fully told in the history of -the families to whom it has belonged; but little, therefore, need be -added. The architect of the mansion has been variously stated to be -Bernard Jansen and John Thorpe, but the weight of evidence seems to be -in favour of the latter. Regarding the house itself, and especially -the “admirable drink” kept in the cellar, we have two striking -pictures written by “quaint old Pepys” in 1659-60 and 1667. “Up by -four o’clock,” he says on the 27th February, “Mr. Blayton and I took -horse and straight to Saffron Walden, where, at the White Hart, we set -up our horses, and took the master of the house to show us Audley End -House, who took us on foot through the park, and so to the house, where -the housekeeper showed us all the house, in which the stateliness of -the ceilings, chimney-pieces, and form of the whole was exceedingly -worth seeing. He took us into the cellar, where we drank most admirable -drink, a health to the king. Here I played on my flageolette, there -being an excellent echo. He shewed us excellent pictures; two -especially, those of the Four Evangelists, and Henry VIII. After that I -gave the man 2_s._ for his trouble and went back again. In our going, -my landlord carried us through a very old hospital, or almshouse, where -forty poor people was maintained; a very old foundation: and over the -chimney-piece was an inscription in brass, ‘Orate pro animâ Thomæ -Bird,’ &c., and the poor-box also was on the same chimney-piece, with -an iron door and locks to it, into which I put 6_d._ They brought me -a draft of their drink in a brown bowl tipt with silver,[45] which I -drank off, and at the bottom was a picture of the Virgin and the Child -in her arms, done in silver. So we went to our Inn, and after eating of -something, and kissed the daughter of the house, she being very pretty, -we took leave, and so that night, the road pretty good, but the weather -rainy, to Epping, where we sat and played a game at cards, and after -supper and some merry talk with a playne bold mayde of the house we -went to bed.” Again, in 1667, he says: “I and my wife and Willet (the -maid), set out in a coach I have hired with four horses, and W. Hewer -and Murford rode by us on horseback; and before night come to Bishop’s -Stortford. Took coach to Audley End, and did go all over the house and -gardens; and mighty merry we were. The house indeed do appear very -fine, but not so fine as it hath heretofore to me; particularly, the -ceilings are not so good as I always took them to be, being nothing -so well wrought as my Lord Chancellor’s are; and though the figure of -the house without be very extraordinary good, yet the stayre-case is -exceeding poore; and a great many pictures, and not one good one in the -house but one of Henry VIII., done by Holbein; and not one good suit of -hangings in all the house, but all most ancient things, such as I would -not give the hanging up of in my house; and the other furniture, beds, -and other things, accordingly. Only the gallery is good, and above all -things the cellars, where we went down and drank of much good liquor. -And indeed the cellars are fine: and here my wife and I did sing to my -great content. And then to the garden, and there eat many grapes, and -took some with us; and so away thence exceeding well satisfied, though -not to that degree that by my old esteem of the house I ought and did -expect to have done, the situation of it not pleasing me; thence away -to Cambridge, and did take up at the Rose.” - -[Illustration: _The Temple of Concord._] - -Evelyn, who wrote a little before Pepys—in 1654—says he “went to -Audley End, and spent some time in seeing that goodly palace, built -by Howard, Earl of Suffolk, once Lord Treasurer. It is a mixed fabric -‘twixt ancient and modern, but observable for its being completely -finished; and it is one of the stateliest palaces in the kingdom. It -consists of two courts, the first very large, winged with cloisters. -The front hath a double entrance; the hall is faire, but somewhat too -small for so august a pile; the kitchen is very large, as are the -cellars, arched with stone, very neat, and well disposed. These offices -are joyned by a wing out of the way very handsomely. The gallery is -the most cheerful, and, I think, one of the best in England; a faire -dining-roome and the rest of the lodginges answerable, with a pretty -chapel. The gardens are not in order, though well inclosed; it has also -a bowling-alley, and a nobly walled, wooded, and watered park. The -river glides before the palace, to which is an avenue of lime-trees; -but all this is much diminished by its being placed in an obscure -bottom. For the rest it is perfectly uniform, and shows without like -a diadem, by the decoration of the cupolas and other ornaments on the -pavilions. Instead of railings and ballusters, there is a bordure of -capital letters, as was lately also in Sussex House.” - -[Illustration: _The Garden._] - -In 1721, on the advice of that man of little taste, Sir John Vanbrugh -the architect, the three sides of the grand quadrangle, which formed -so magnificent an entrance to this splendid mansion, were destroyed, -along with the kitchen and offices, which were behind the north wing. -The chapel and cellars, which projected from the gallery wing at -each end, soon shared the same fate. The inner court thus was alone -allowed to remain untouched, and the mansion was confined to one hollow -square. In 1747 the house was in a state of dilapidation, and projects -were set on foot both for pulling it down, and for converting it into -a silk manufactory. Two years later, the eastern wing, whose feature -was the magnificent gallery, was pulled down. The house was, at an -enormous expense, restored, repaired, and made habitable by the first -Lord Braybrooke, and, though there remains but a small portion of the -original edifice, it is yet a noble and stately building. - -We have left ourselves scant space for a description of the noble and -very beautiful house, one of the best of those of the Elizabethan -era that time has left us, though it is not now as it was when -Evelyn pictured it in the quotation we have given; but the gardens -are charmingly kept, and have been laid out with taste and skill; -the classic river Cam runs in front, and it is here of considerable -breadth, Art having utilised the small stream, and made what is -technically termed “a sheet of ornamental water;” it is also used to -supply fountains and _jets d’eau_ in various parts of the grounds. - -The house is distant about a mile from the pretty and picturesque -town of Saffron Walden, whose Church holds rank among four of the -most perfect examples in Great Britain; and close to it is a Museum -containing much that is deeply interesting—many specimens of the -earliest races by whom this island was inhabited in the pre-historic -ages. - -We give several engravings of the house; one of its principal Lodge, -one of its attractive Gardens, and one of a comparatively modern -structure in the grounds, called the Temple of Concord, built, it -is said, to commemorate the recovery of George III. from his first -afflicting illness. - -Before we reach the house, proceeding from the Audley End station, we -may pause awhile to examine the Abbey Farm-buildings and a square of -venerable and very comfortable Almshouses, in which “nine old ladies” -are passing in ease the residue of their lives—blessing, as we bless, -the lord who founded them. - -The grand feature of the house is the Hall: it is not, as Evelyn -thought it was, “somewhat too small,” but is finely proportioned, in -some parts admirably carved, and it contains many portraits—among -others that of the founder and his wife and daughter. The ceilings -throughout the mansion are of much beauty, and, besides several grand -examples of the ancient masters and “throngs” of family portraits, -there are some rare specimens of china. There are other curious -relics—among them the chair of Alexander Pope, and the carved oak head -of Cromwell’s bed, converted into a chimney-piece. - -Audley End is not often visited: it is somewhat out of the highway of -England, but of a surety it will largely repay those who love Nature -and appreciate Art, and who rejoice that one of the grandest and most -beautiful of our landmarks of family history is yet in its perfection -and thoroughly “well cared for.” - - - - -BURLEIGH. - - -“BURLEIGH HOUSE by Stamford town,” as Tennyson has it in his simple -and beautiful ballad, “The Lord of Burleigh,” stands in a noble -park just outside the fine old town of Stamford. Stamford is in -two counties—Lincolnshire and Northamptonshire—on the river -Welland, which here divides them, and at the same time separates six -parishes, five being in Lincolnshire, and the sixth, St. Martin’s, -or Stamford-Baron, in Northamptonshire. In this latter county are -Burleigh House and its surrounding demesne. The park for pedestrians is -conveniently entered at Burleigh Lane, one of the outer streets of the -town; thus the grounds, being so ready of access, are an incalculable -boon to the inhabitants. The principal Lodges are on the North Road, -immediately south of St. Martin’s, and are noble and important -buildings, erected in 1801 at a cost of more than £5,000, by the tenth -earl, the approach being greatly improved in 1828 by his immediate -successor. - -The park, nearly seven miles in circumference, was planted by -“Capability Brown,” and besides its attractions of wood and temples, -grottoes and other buildings, contains a fine sheet of water -three-quarters of a mile in length, spanned by a handsome bridge of -three arches, with noble sculptures of lions. The Roman road, Ermine -Street, may be traced in some parts of the park on its way from Caistor -to Stamford. The park, which contains about fourteen hundred acres, -was principally laid out by the first Lord Burleigh, but has been -since then considerably extended and improved, one of the greatest -improvements being the filling up of the fish-pond, and the formation -of the serpentine lake on the south front. The house is a mile distant -from the Grand Lodge entrance, the approach being, for a considerable -distance, among magnificent oak and other forest trees, through -beautiful upland scenery. - -In the reign of Edward the Confessor, Burleigh (variously spelled -Burleigh, Burghley, and Burley) was let to farm by the Church at Burgh -to Alfgar, the King’s chaplain, at whose death it was seized by the -Crown, and afterwards redeemed for eight marks by Abbot Leofric, and -was confirmed to Peterborough Abbey in 1146. At the time of taking the -Domesday survey it was held of the Abbot of Peterborough by Goisfrid. -In the reign of Henry III. it is stated to have been in like manner -held by Thomas de Burghley, who died in 1280, and remained in that -family for two or three generations. “Peter de Burlegh, it appears,” -says Sharpe, “held possession here in the twenty-fourth of Edward I., -and obtained a grant of free warren in the third of Edward II. Geoffry, -his son, succeeded him, but, dying without issue, his widow, Mariot, -married John de Tichmersh, who, in her right, held the manor in the -third of Edward III., and continued to do so until the twentieth year -of the same reign.” Somewhat later it is said to have belonged to -Nicholas de Segrave, it “having descended to Alice de Lisle as part -of the inheritance of John de Armenters. From Nicholas de Segrave it -passed to Warine de Lisle, who, with others, took up arms against the -king, was defeated at Borough Bridge, and executed at Pontefract. -By Edward III., Gerard de Lisle, son of Warine, was restored to his -father’s possessions, and held Burleigh with the other estates.” In -1360, Sharpe states, Burleigh was in the possession of Robert Wykes, -one of whose descendants, Margaret Chambers, sold it to Richard Cecil, -father of the Lord Treasurer, who also purchased the adjoining manor of -Little Burleigh. - -[Illustration: _Burleigh House, from the Park._] - -The present mansion was commenced in 1575 by the first Lord Burleigh, -whose principal residence was, however, at Theobalds, in Hertfordshire. -The old structure was mainly retained, the existing portions being “in -the eastern part of the present building, and are exceedingly fine and -substantial; they are—the kitchen, with a groined roof of vast extent -and most peculiar construction (perhaps the largest apartment in Europe -devoted to culinary purposes); the imposing banqueting-hall, with its -magnificent bay window and open carved roof, surpassed by only one -other in England (Westminster); and the chapel, reached by a unique -vaulted stone staircase, elaborately ornamented, and remarkable for its -radiating arch.” The building, when completed and finished, was said to -be the most complete and splendid in the kingdom. It is recorded that -when, in the civil wars, Burleigh was taken by the Parliamentarians, -Cromwell and his officers and army behaved with the utmost -consideration and courtesy to the family. Cromwell himself, “when he -beheld it (Burlegh), forgot his rage for destruction, and, charmed with -its magnificence, displayed his republican generosity by depositing -his own picture (by Walker) among those of its fine collection.” It is -also recorded that later on, William III., when he saw Burleigh, “with -a jealousy and a littleness of spirit unworthy of a monarch, declared -that it was much too gorgeous for a subject.” - -[Illustration: _West View._] - -Queen Elizabeth delighted to visit Burleigh; and we read that “twelve -times did he (Lord Treasurer Cecil) entertain the Queen at his house -for several weeks together, at an expense of £2,000 or £3,000 each -time.” It is traditionally said that on one of her visits, when the -Lord Treasurer was pointing out its beauties to Elizabeth, her Majesty, -tapping him familiarly on the cheek, said to him, “Ay, _my_ money and -_your_ taste have made it a mighty pretty place!” Burleigh was, in -1603, visited by King James I. on his way from Scotland, and in 1695 -by King William III. The most magnificent royal visit was, however, -that of Queen Victoria with the Prince Consort in 1842, when she was -accompanied by her ministers and the Court. - -The family of Cecil seems to be derived from Robert ap Seisylt, or -Sitsilt, or Seisel, a Welsh chieftain, who, in 1091, assisted Robert -Fitzhamon in his conquest of Glamorganshire, for which he received a -grant of lands in that county. Without entering particularly into the -genealogy of the early members of this family, it will be sufficient -for our present purpose to say that fifteenth in succession from this -Robert ap Seisylt was David Sicelt, who, having joined the Earl of -Richmond (Henry VII.) in Brittany, was rewarded for his service by a -grant of land in Lincolnshire. Under Henry VIII. he “was constituted -Water Bailiff of Wittlesey, in the county of Huntingdon, as also -Keeper of the Swans there and throughout all the waters and fens in -the counties of Huntingdon, Cambridge, Lincoln, and Northampton for -the term of thirty years; also, in the fifth of Henry VIII., he was -made one of the King’s Sergeants-at-arms; and, having this employment -at court, obtained for Richard, his son and heir, the office of a page -to the Crown. Likewise, in the eighth of Henry VIII., he obtained a -grant for himself and son of the Keepership of Clyff Park, in the -county of Northampton; and in the fifteenth of Henry VIII. (continuing -still Sergeant-at-arms) was constituted Sheriff of the King’s Lordship -of Coly Weston, in that county; and was Escheator of the county of -Lincoln from November 15th, 1529, to November 15th following. In the -twenty-third of Henry VIII. he was constituted Sheriff of Northampton; -and having been three times Alderman of Stamford,” departed this life -in the year 1541. He married the heiress of John Dicons, of Stamford, -by whom he had a son, Richard Cecil, who succeeded him. - -This Richard Cecil, as a page, attended Henry VIII. at the Field of -the Cloth of Gold, and afterwards became Groom and Yeoman of the -Robes, Constable of Warwick Castle, Bailiff of Whittlesea Mere, with -the custody of swans, and steward of several manors. He purchased the -manors of Burleigh and Little Burleigh, and had grants of land at -Maxey, Stamford, &c. He married Jane, daughter and heiress of William -Heckington, of Bourn, by whom he had, with other issue, a son, William -Cecil, the famous Lord Treasurer. - -This William Cecil, first Lord Burleigh, was born in 1520 at his -mother’s house at Bourn, and early received marks of royal favour under -Henry VIII. Under Edward VI. and Queen Elizabeth he held, with other -offices, that of Secretary of State; and by the latter was made Lord -High Treasurer of England, and created Baron Burleigh of Burleigh, and -installed a Knight of the Garter. His lordship remained Lord Treasurer -until within a few days of his death in 1598. Lord Burleigh married -twice, each time gaining a large increase both to his fortunes and to -his social and political influence. His first wife, to whom he was -married in 1541, was Mary, sister of Sir John Cheke, who, within a year -of their marriage, died, after giving birth to his son and successor, -Thomas Cecil. In 1545 he married, secondly, Mildred, daughter of Sir -Anthony Cooke, by whom he had, with numerous other issue, a son, Robert -Cecil, who was created Earl of Salisbury, and was the progenitor of -the present Marquis of Salisbury. Lord Burleigh died in 1598, and was -succeeded by his son— - -Thomas Cecil, second Baron Burleigh, who held many important offices, -and was, by King James I., in 1605, created Earl of Exeter. He married, -first, Dorothea, one of the co-heiresses of John Nevil, Lord Latimer, -and by her had issue five sons—viz. William, who succeeded him; Sir -Richard, whose son David also became Earl of Exeter; Sir Edward, who -was created Baron Cecil of Putney and Viscount Wimbledon; Christopher; -and Thomas—and eight daughters. Lord Burleigh married, secondly, a -daughter of the fourth Lord Chandos and widow of Sir Thomas Smith, by -whom he had issue one daughter. - -William Cecil, third Baron Burleigh and second Earl of Exeter, married, -first, Elizabeth, only child of Edward, Earl of Rutland, by whom he had -issue an only child, William Cecil, who, in his mother’s right, became -Baron Roos, but who died without issue in his father’s lifetime; and, -secondly, Elizabeth, daughter of Sir William Drury. Dying in 1640, he -was succeeded by his nephew, David Cecil, as fourth Baron Burleigh and -third Earl of Exeter; he married Elizabeth, daughter of John, Earl of -Bridgewater; and, dying in 1643, was succeeded by his son, John Cecil, -who was only fifteen years old at his father’s death. He married, -first, Lady Frances Manners, daughter of the Earl of Rutland; and, -secondly, Lady Mary, daughter of the Earl of Westmoreland and widow -of Sir Bryan Palmes. By his first wife he had issue one son, John, -who succeeded him; David, who died young; and a daughter, Frances, -married to Viscount Scudamore. He died in 1687, aged fifty-nine, and -was buried at Stamford. John Cecil, who succeeded his father as sixth -Baron Burleigh and fifth Earl of Exeter, espoused Lady Anne Cavendish, -only daughter of the Earl of Devonshire and sister of the first Duke -of Devonshire (widow of Lord Rich), by whom he had issue, John, who -succeeded him, and other children. - -[Illustration: _North View._] - -John Cecil, seventh baron and sixth earl, married, first, Annabella, -daughter of Lord Ossulston; and, secondly, Elizabeth, daughter and -co-heiress of Sir John Brownlow, by whom he had, with other issue, -John and Brownlow, who succeeded as seventh and eighth earls. He died -in 1721. John Cecil, his eldest son, who succeeded on his father’s -death in 1721 as seventh earl and eighth baron, died unmarried in 1722, -when the titles and estates devolved on his brother, Brownlow Cecil, -who thus became ninth Baron Burleigh and eighth Earl of Exeter. This -nobleman married, in July, 1724, Hannah Sophia, daughter and heiress of -Thomas Chambers, of Derby and London, a beautiful and amiable woman, -to whom a monument is erected in the gardens, bearing the following -touching lines:— - - “Oh, thou most loved, most valued, most revered, - Accept this tribute to thy memory due; - Nor blame me, if by each fond tie endeared, - I bring again your virtues unto view. - - “These lonely scenes your memory shall restore, - Here oft for thee the silent tear be shed; - Beloved through life, till life can charm no more, - And mourned till filial piety be dead.” - -By this lady, who died in 1765, aged sixty-three, the Earl had issue -three sons—Brownlow Cecil, ninth Earl of Exeter; Thomas Chambers -Cecil, whose son ultimately became tenth earl; and David Cecil—and two -daughters, viz. Margaret Sophia and Elizabeth (who became the wife of -John Chaplin, Esq.). His lordship died in 1754, and was succeeded by -his son. - -[Illustration: _East View._] - -Brownlow Cecil, tenth baron and ninth earl, succeeded to the titles and -estates in 1754, and having married Letitia, only daughter and heiress -of the Hon. Horatio Townsend, he died without issue in 1793, and was -succeeded in his title and estates by his nephew, Henry Cecil, only son -of the Hon. Thomas Chambers Cecil, by his wife, Charlotte Garnier. - -Henry Cecil, eleventh Baron Burleigh, tenth Earl of Exeter, and first -Marquis of Exeter, was born at Brussels in 1754, and for many years in -his early life was M.P. for Stamford. His lordship was married three -times: first, to Emma, only daughter and heiress of Thomas Vernon, -Esq., of Hanbury, from whom he was divorced in 1791, after having issue -by her one son, Henry, who died young; secondly, to Sarah, daughter -to Thomas Hoggins, of Bolas, Shropshire, by whom he had issue four -children, viz. the Lady Sophia Cecil, married to the Hon. Henry Manvers -Pierrepoint (whose daughter married Lord Charles Wellesley, second -son of the first Duke of Wellington, and was mother of the present -heir-presumptive to that dukedom); Lord Henry Cecil, who died young; -Lord Brownlow Cecil, who became second Marquis of Exeter; and Lord -Thomas Cecil, who married Lady Sophia Georgiana Lennox; and, thirdly, -to Elizabeth, Duchess of Hamilton, by whom he had no issue. The second -of these three marriages has supplied a theme to many novelists and -dramatists. They have used the poet’s license somewhat; but it is -certain that the bride and her family had no idea of the rank of the -wooer until the Lord of Burleigh had wedded the peasant-girl. Thus -Moore pictures Ellen, the “hamlet’s pride,” loving in poverty, leaving -her home to seek uncertain fortune. Stopping at the entrance to a -lordly mansion, blowing the horn with a chieftain’s air, while the -porter bowed as he passed the gate, “she believed him wild,” when he -said, “This castle is thine, and these dark woods all;” but “his words -were truth,” and “Ellen was Lady of Rosna Hall.” - -The story is more accurately and more plaintively poetically told by -the Laureate Tennyson, who undoubtedly adheres more literally to fact -when he describes the lady as bowed down to death by the heavy weight -of honour laid upon her, “unto which she was not born.” Tennyson’s -ballad of “The Lord of Burleigh,” in which the story of the “village -maiden,” from her wooing when she was plain Sarah Hoggins to the time -of her early death as Countess of Exeter, is so sweetly and touchingly -told, is too sadly beautiful to be omitted here. It is as follows:— - - “In her ear he whispers gaily, - ‘If my heart by signs can tell, - Maiden, I have watched thee daily, - And I think thou lov’st me well.’ - - “She replies, in accents fainter, - ‘There is none I love like thee.’ - He is but a landscape painter, - And a village maiden she. - - “He to lips that fondly falter - Presses his without reproof, - Leads her to the village altar, - And they leave her father’s roof. - - “‘I can make no marriage present, - Little can I give my wife, - Love will make our cottage pleasant - And I love thee more than life.’ - - “They by parks and lodges going, - See the lordly castles stand; - Summer woods about them blowing, - Made a murmur in the land. - - “From deep thought himself he rouses, - Says to her that loves him well— - ‘Let us see these handsome houses, - Where the wealthy nobles dwell.’ - - “So she goes by him attended, - Hears him lovingly converse, - Sees whatever fair and splendid - Lay betwixt his home and hers. - - “Parks with oak and chestnut shady, - Parks and order’d gardens great, - Ancient homes of lord and lady, - Built for pleasure and for state. - - “All he shows her makes him dearer; - Evermore she seems to gaze - On that cottage growing nearer, - Where they twain will spend their days. - - “Oh, but she will love him truly, - He shall have a cheerful home; - She will order all things duly, - When beneath his roof they come. - - “Thus her heart rejoices greatly, - Till a gateway she discerns, - With armorial bearings stately, - And beneath the gate she turns; - - “Sees a mansion more majestic - Than all those she saw before; - Many a gallant gay domestic - Bows before him at the door. - - “And they speak in gentle murmur, - When they answer to his call, - While he treads with footstep firmer, - Leading on from hall to hall. - - “And, while now she wonders blindly, - Nor the meaning can divine, - Proudly turns he round and kindly, - ‘All of this is mine and thine.’ - - “Here he lives in state and bounty, - Lord of Burleigh, fair and free, - Not a lord in all the county, - Is so great a lord as he. - - “All at once the colour flushes - Her sweet face from brow to chin; - As it were with shame she blushes, - And her spirit changed within. - - “Then her countenance all over, - Pale again as death doth prove; - But he clasp’d her like a lover, - And he cheer’d her soul with love. - - “So she strove against her weakness, - Tho’ at times her spirits sank, - Shaped her heart with woman’s meekness - To all duties of her rank. - - “And a gentle consort made he, - And her gentle mind was such, - That she grew a noble lady, - And the people loved her much. - - “But a trouble weigh’d upon her, - And perplex’d her night and morn, - With the burthen of an honour - Unto which she was not born. - - “Faint she grew, and even fainter, - As she murmur’d, ‘Oh, that he - Were once more that landscape painter, - Which did win my heart from me.’ - - “So she droop’d and droop’d before him, - Fading slowly from his side; - Three fair children first she bore him, - Then before her time she died. - - “Weeping, weeping late and early, - Walking up and pacing down, - Deeply mourn’d the Lord of Burleigh, - Burleigh House by Stamford town. - - “And he came to look upon her. - And he look’d at her and said, - ‘Bring the dress and put it on her - That she wore when she was wed.’ - - “Then her people, softly treading, - Bore to earth her body, drest - In the dress that she was wed in, - That her spirit might have rest.” - -The Countess, whose story is thus so plaintively told, died on the 18th -of January, 1797, at the early age of twenty-four, and her portrait, -preserved in the house, cannot but interest every visitor. The Earl, -her husband, was in February, 1801, advanced to the dignity of Marquis -of Exeter, and in May, 1804, he died, and was succeeded by his son by -this romantic and happy, though brief, espousal. - -This son, Brownlow Cecil, second Marquis and eleventh Earl of Exeter, -and twelfth Baron Burleigh, was only nine years of age when, on the -death of his father in 1804, he succeeded to the titles and estates. In -1824 his lordship married Isabella, daughter of William Stephen Poyntz, -Esq., by whom he had issue eleven children—viz. William Alleyne, Lord -Burleigh, the present Marquis of Exeter; a daughter, born in 1826; Lord -Brownlow Thomas Montague Cecil; Lady Isabella Mary Cecil, who died in -infancy; Lady Mary Frances Cecil, married to Viscount Sandon, M.P., -heir to the earldom of Harrowby; Lord Edward Henry Cecil; Lady Dorothy -Anne Cecil, who died in infancy; Lord Henry Poyntz Cecil; a son, who -died as soon as born; Lord Adelbert Percy Cecil, to whom Queen Adelaide -stood as sponsor; and Lady Victoria Cecil, to whom her Most Gracious -Majesty Queen Victoria and the Prince Consort were sponsors, married -to the Hon. William Charles Evans-Freke, brother of Lord Carbery. His -lordship died in 1867, and was succeeded by his son— - -[Illustration: _The Quadrangle, looking West._] - -The present noble peer, William Alleyne Cecil, third Marquis and -twelfth Earl of Exeter, and thirteenth Baron Burleigh of Burleigh, -a Privy Councillor, and Hereditary Grand Almoner of England, who -was born on the 30th of April, 1825, and was educated at Eton and -St. John’s College, Cambridge, where he graduated as M.A. in 1847. -He sat as M.P. for South Lincolnshire from 1847 to 1857, and for -North Northamptonshire from 1857 to 1867, in which year he succeeded -to the titles, and took his seat in the Upper House. In 1856 he was -appointed Militia Aide-de-camp to the Queen, and in 1866 was made -Treasurer of her Majesty’s Household. In 1867 and 1868 he was Captain -of her Majesty’s Honourable Corps of Gentlemen-at-Arms, and he holds -many local and other appointments. His lordship married, in 1848, -Lady Georgiana Sophia Pakenham, second daughter of the second Earl -of Longford, and has issue living—Brownlow Henry George Cecil, Lord -Burleigh, born in 1849, and married to Isabella, daughter of Sir Thomas -Whichcote, Bart.; Lord Francis Horace Pierrepoint Cecil, born 1851, -married to Edith, youngest daughter of W. Cunliffe-Brooks, Esq., M.P.; -Lord William Cecil, born 1854; Lord John Pakenham Cecil, born 1867; -Lady Isabella Georgiana Katharine Cecil, born 1853; Lady Mary Louisa -Wellesley Cecil, born 1857; Lady Catherine Sarah Cecil, born 1861; Lady -Frances Emily Cecil, born 1862; and Lady Louisa Alexandrina Cecil, born -1864. - -His lordship is patron of seventeen livings, five being in Rutland, one -in London, and eleven in Northamptonshire and Lincolnshire. - -The arms of the Marquis of Exeter, engraved on our initial letter, -are—barry of ten, _argent_ and _azure_; six escutcheons, three, two, -and one, _sable_, each charged with a lion rampant, _argent_. Crest—on -a chapeau, _gules_, turned up, _ermine_, a garb, _or_, supported -by two lions rampant, the dexter _argent_, the sinister _azure_. -Supporters—two lions, _ermine_. Motto—“Cor unum via una.” His seats -are Burleigh, near Stamford, and Brookfield House, Ryde, in the Isle of -Wight. - -The visitor to Burleigh House is admitted by the Porter’s Lodge into -the Outer Court, which is a quadrangle surrounded by the domestic -and business offices of the establishment. He then passes into the -Corridor, decorated with bas-reliefs by Nollekens, and so reaches the -Great Hall, or Queen Victoria’s Hall, a banqueting-room of magnificent -size and of matchless beauty, with open-work timber roof, stained-glass -windows, richly carved gallery, and royal and other portraits. This -noble apartment, shown in the accompanying engraving, which, with -others of our series, is taken from a photograph by F. Robinson, is 68 -feet long, 60 feet in height, and 30 feet in width, with, in addition, -a deeply recessed bay window. - -[Illustration: _The Great Hall._] - -It has a magnificent open timber-work roof of carved oak, and the -lower portions of the walls are wainscoted; and at one end is a -music gallery, the cornice of the panelling and the gallery being -supported on a number of richly carved spiral Corinthian columns. The -fire-place is remarkably fine, and the window is filled with stained -glass. Among the pictures in the Hall are a portrait of the Prince -Consort in his Garter robes, presented to the Marquis by the Prince; -Dahl’s full-length portraits of George I., George II., and the Queen -of George II.; and portraits of Viscount and Viscountess Montague, -Earl of Peterborough, Sir Walter Raleigh, &c. From the Hall, passing -through Vestibule and Corridor, which contain busts of the Cæsars and -other examples of sculpture, and the Ancient Stone Staircase—a part -of the original building, shown in the opposite engraving—the Chapel -is reached. The Chapel contains, among its other attractions, a fine -assemblage of carving, said to be by Grinling Gibbons, and among the -best of his productions; an altar-piece by Paul Veronese, the subject -being the “Wife of Zebedee;” the seat used by Queen Elizabeth when -she worshipped here, and used also for the same purpose by Queen -Victoria; and many good paintings. The communion-table and altar-rails -are of cedar-wood, and the pulpit and reading-desk of mahogany. The -magnificent chimney-piece of various marbles was brought from a -convent near Lisbon. The Ante-chapel is also an interesting room. -The Chapel-room contains many paintings by Carlo Dolce, Domenichino, -Lanfranco, Albert Dürer, Guercino, Andrea Sacchi, Parmigiano, the -Carracci, Guido, Teniers, Bassan, Rubens, Carlo Maratti, Bolognese, -Giulio Romano, Le Brun, and others. - -The Billiard-room, panelled with Norway oak and enriched with a -decorated ceiling, is hung with family and other portraits. Among -them are Lawrence’s full-length group portraits of the tenth Earl and -Countess—Sarah the “village maiden”—and their daughter, the Lady -Sophia; several other Earls and Countesses of Exeter, and others of -their families; the first Duke and Duchess of Devonshire; Barbara -Villiers, Duchess of Cleveland; Duchess of Montrose, &c. - -We will not, however, go through the various rooms in the order in -which they are visited, but select, here and there, an apartment for -notice, our object being, not to furnish a guide for the visitor’s use, -but to give a general sketch of the mansion and its surroundings. - -The Ball-room has its walls and ceiling painted by Laguerre in his best -style, the subject of the latter being described as the “History of the -Planetary System.” On the east side of the walls is painted “The Battle -of Cannæ,” and on the west “The Continence of Scipio;” the others being -“The Loves of Antony and Cleopatra,” &c. The Brown Drawing-room, lined -with oak, contains many valuable paintings as well as some exquisite -examples of Gibbons’s carvings, as also do the Black and Yellow -Bed-rooms. In this latter room is the ancient state bed from which it -takes its name. This is hung with black satin, ornamented with fine -old needlework, and lined with yellow silk. In the windows is some good -stained glass, and over the chimney-piece a fine example of Gibbons’s -carving. Among the paintings in this and the West and North-west -Dining-rooms are pictures by Guercino, old Franck, Libri, Angelica -Kauffmann, Rubens, Scilla, Cimabue, Giordano, the Carracci, Elsheimer, -Van Balen, Salvator Rosa, Castiglione, G. Bolognese, Van Eyck, Murillo, -Claude Lorraine, Domenichino, Mola, Jordaens, and others. - -[Illustration: _The Ancient Stone Staircase._] - -In the China Closet, besides several good paintings, a case of ceramic -treasures is preserved. - -Queen Elizabeth’s Bed-room is one of the most interesting apartments -in the mansion, “and presents almost the same appearance as on the day -when the great virgin queen first reposed therein—the very bed on -which her royal form reclined, the same rich ancient tapestry which -then decorated the walls, and the same chairs which then furnished the -room, and upon some of which Elizabeth herself was once seated. The bed -is hung with dark green velvet, embroidered with gold tissue, and the -walls are hung with tapestry representing Bacchus and Ariadne, Acis -and Galatea, and Diana and Actæon.” Queen Elizabeth’s Dining-room, -or the Pagoda Room, looks out upon the lawn, in the centre of which -is a majestic and venerable tree planted by the “Virgin Queen,” the -“Good Queen Bess,” herself. In this room are a Chinese pagoda and many -interesting portraits and other paintings. Among these are Shee’s -portrait of the late marquis; Cranach’s head of Luther; Holbein’s Henry -VIII., Thomas Cromwell, Edward VI., Queen Mary, Duke of Newcastle, and -Queen Elizabeth; Mark Gerard’s Queen Elizabeth and the Lord Treasurer -Burleigh; Zucchero’s Robert Devereux; Rembrandt’s Countess of Desmond; -and admirable examples of Van Eyck, Annibale Carracci, Velasquez, -Titian, Cranach, Paul Veronese, Cornelius Jansen, Dobsone, Vandyke, old -Stone, Dance, Romney, and others. The Purple Satin Rooms are also hung -with valuable paintings, and the furniture is of superb character. - -The George Rooms, as a magnificent suite of five apartments, occupying -the south side of the mansion, are called, have the whole of their -ceilings painted with allegorical and mythological subjects by Verrio. -These are the apartments specially set aside for royalty, and have -been repeatedly so occupied. The first George Room has its floor of -oak inlaid with walnut, and the carvings over the doors are among the -best existing examples of Gibbons. The Jewel Closet has a similar floor -and equally good carvings; and in the centre, in a large glass case, -are preserved numerous jewels and curiosities of great separate and -collective value. “Here are a plate of gold, a basin, and spoons, used -by Queen Elizabeth at her coronation; a curiously ornamented busk, also -used by Queen Elizabeth, and a jewelled crystal salt-cellar, supposed -to have belonged to that great queen; a minute jewelled trinket sword, -once belonging to the unfortunate Mary Queen of Scots; a handkerchief -of William III.; Cæsar’s head carved in onyx (a choice antique, 2½ -inches oval, and set in diamonds); Henry VIII. and his children cut in -sardonyx; the head of the Lord Treasurer Burleigh on the back of an -antique intaglio of Caracalla, depending from which is a small head -of Elizabeth, both cameo on onyx. There are, besides, a multitude of -enamelled trinkets, miniature vases in gold filigree, amber, diamonds, -precious stones, &c., &c. To this collection have been added, of late -years, a chrysanthemum wreath worn by Queen Victoria at the baptism of -the Lady Victoria Cecil, youngest daughter of the second marquis, and -a pair of white kid gloves worn by her Majesty at the same time: the -wreath has been incrusted with metal by a process of electro-gilding, -but in effecting this it was broken into several pieces. There is -also a very elaborately ornamented trowel, used by Prince Albert, -in 1842, in the ceremony of laying the first stone of the present -building of the Royal Exchange, London, and presented by him to the -Marquis of Exeter, who attended his Royal Highness at the time as Groom -of the Stole. There are also here a magnificent jewelled crucifix, -several feet in height, and of great value, some rare china, and other -articles. One other object remains to be noticed in this apartment: -this is a beautiful specimen of carving in white wood of a bird, nearly -the colour and about the size of a canary: it is represented as dead, -hanging by one leg from a nail, and so exquisitely is it worked, that -looking upon it it is difficult to believe it merely the resemblance of -reality.” - -The State Bed-room, or second George Room, is the bed-room set apart -for the repose of royalty, and its furniture and decorations are of -great richness. A magnificent bed was here erected by the then marquis, -in preparation for a visit from George IV. when Prince of Wales, and -was subsequently several times used by various members of the royal -family; but when Queen Victoria visited Burleigh in 1844, a bed even -more rich and costly was substituted, in which her Majesty and her -royal consort, Prince Albert, reposed during their stay. The hangings -are of crimson velvet lined with white satin. The walls are hung with -rare tapestry. - -The State Dining-room, and the Great Drawing-room, or fourth George -Room, are gorgeous in the extreme, and filled to repletion with choice -works of Art and antiquity; while the fifth of these George apartments, -named the Heaven, from the subjects of Verrio’s paintings, which cover -alike the ceiling and walls, contains cabinets, paintings, and busts -of great value. The whole of this suite of rooms is hung with choice -pictures, of which, of course, space prevents our giving an account. -The Grand Staircase, leading to the Great Hall, completes this suite; -its ceiling is by Verrio, and the staircase and landings are adorned -with sculpture and paintings. - -We regret that we cannot find space to describe the numerous other -admirably constructed and beautifully furnished apartments of this -noble mansion, one of the most interesting of the many glorious -baronial halls of the kingdom. - -The burial-place of the family of Cecil is St. Martin’s Church, -Stamford, where many monuments exist; and the visitor will find much to -interest him in this and the other churches of that town. - - - - -HEVER CASTLE. - - -HEVER CASTLE was originally the stronghold of the family of De Hevre, -said to have been of Norman extraction, one of whom, William De Hevre, -is stated to have had license from King Edward III. to embattle this -his manor-house. His daughters and co-heiresses inherited the estates, -and through them, by marriage, they were conveyed to the families of -Cobham and Brocas, the former of whom, having obtained the whole by -purchase, sold it to Sir Geoffrey Bullen, or Boleyn, in which family it -remained until it was seized by the Crown. - -The family of Boleyn, or Bullen, traces from Sir Thomas Bullen, Knt., -of Blickling and Saul, in Norfolk, and Joan, his wife, daughter and -heiress of Sir John Bracton, Knt. The grandson of Sir Thomas was Sir -Geoffrey Bullen, the purchaser of Hever Castle and other estates of -the De Hevre family. Sir Geoffrey “was a wealthy mercer in London, -as also Lord Mayor of that city in 37 Henry VI., and, having married -Anne, eldest daughter and co-heiress to John, Baron Hoo and Hastings, -by his second wife, Elizabeth, daughter and heiress of Sir Nicholas -Wichingham, he had issue, Sir William Bullen, Knight of the Bath at -the coronation of King Richard III.” Sir William married Margaret, -daughter and co-heiress of Thomas Butler, Earl of Ormond (third brother -to James, Earl of Wiltshire), and by her had, with other issue, a son, -Thomas Bullen, afterwards created Earl of Wiltshire and Ormond. - -This Thomas Bullen, or Boleyn, whose career, and that of his -unfortunate daughter, Queen Anne Boleyn, are so intimately woven into -the history of our country, was, in 1496, in arms with his father for -suppressing the Cornish rebellion; and, under Henry VIII., “being one -of the knights of the king’s body, was, jointly with Sir Henry Wyat, -Knt., constituted governor of the Castle of Norwich. In the following -year he was one of the ambassadors to the Emperor Maximilian, touching -a war with France, and soon after was sole governor of Norwich Castle.” - -In the eleventh year of this sovereign’s reign “he arranged the famous -interview of King Henry VIII. and Francis I. between Guisnes and -Ardres, and in the thirteenth year was accredited ambassador to the -latter. The next year, being treasurer of the King’s household, he -was sent ambassador to Spain, to advise with King Charles upon some -proceedings in order to the war with France.” In 1525, with a view to -further the suit of the monarch to his daughter Anne, Sir Thomas Bullen -was created Baron and Viscount Rochfort, and afterwards successively -Earl of Wiltshire and Earl of Ormond, a Knight of the Garter, and Lord -Privy Seal. “He subscribed the articles against Cardinal Wolsey in 21 -Henry VIII., and soon after was sent again ambassador to the Emperor -Charles V.” - -This Sir Thomas Bullen, afterwards, as we have shown, created Baron -Rochfort, Viscount Rochfort, Earl of Ormond, and Earl of Wiltshire, -married Elizabeth daughter of Thomas Howard, Duke of Norfolk, and by -her had issue one son—George, commonly called Viscount Rochfort, but -summoned as Baron Rochfort during the lifetime of his father—and two -daughters, Anne and Mary. Lord Rochfort married Jane, daughter of -Henry Parker, Earl of Morley. He was beheaded during the lifetime of -his father, and left no issue. Of the daughters, the Lady Anne Bullen, -who was created Marchioness of Pembroke, became second queen to King -Henry VIII.; and the Lady Mary Bullen, married, first, William Cary, -Esquire of the Body to King Henry VIII., and brother of Sir John Cary -of Plashley, one of the gentlemen of the bed-chamber to the same -monarch; and, secondly, Sir William Stafford, Knt. The husband of this -lady, William Cary, was the son of Thomas Cary, of Chilton Foliat, in -Wiltshire (son of Sir William Cary, of Cockington, Devon, Knt.—who -was slain at the battle of Tewkesbury—by his second wife, Alice, -daughter of Sir Baldwin Fulford), by his wife, Margaret, daughter and -co-heiress of Sir Robert Spencer, of Spencer Combe, by the Lady Eleanor -Beaufort, daughter of Edmund, and sister and co-heiress of Henry, Duke -of Somerset. Lady Mary Bullen had, by her first husband, William Cary, -a daughter, Catherine, married to Sir Francis Knollys, K.G.; and a son, -Sir Henry Cary, Knt., who was created Baron Hunsdon at the coronation -of Queen Elizabeth, and from whom descended the Barons Hunsdon and -Earls of Dover and Monmouth; while from his brother, Sir John Cary, of -Plashley, Knt., by his wife, Joyce, sister of Sir Anthony Denny, king’s -remembrancer, are descended the Viscounts Falkland. - -[Illustration: _Entrance Gateway, with Portcullis._] - -Anne Boleyn, or Bullen, was born at Hever in or about the year 1507; -and in 1514, when only seven years of age, was appointed one of the -maids of honour to the King’s sister—who had then just been married to -Louis XII. of France—and was allowed to remain with her when her other -English attendants were unceremoniously sent out of the country. On -the Queen’s second marriage with Brandon, Anne Boleyn was left under -the powerful protection of the new queen, Claude, wife of Francis I. -She was thus brought up at the French Court. When war was declared -against France in 1522, at which time her father, Sir Thomas Boleyn, -was ambassador to that country, it is thought she was brought back -to England by him, and, shortly afterwards, was appointed one of the -maids of honour to Queen Catherine, wife of Henry VIII., and was thus -brought under the notice of that detestable and profligate monarch. -She had not been long at Court when, it is said by Cavendish, a strong -and mutual attachment sprang up between her and the young Lord Percy, -son and heir of the Earl of Northumberland, who made her an offer of -marriage, and was accepted. At this time she was only sixteen years of -age. The match, however, was not destined to be made, for the King “had -already turned his admiring eyes in the same direction, and, jealous of -the rivalry of a subject, he caused the lovers to be parted through the -agency of Cardinal Wolsey, in whose household Percy had been educated; -and that young nobleman, probably under compulsion, married, in 1523, a -daughter of the Earl of Shrewsbury.” Anne, on being thus compulsorily -separated from her young and fond lover, was removed to Hever. Here, -within a few weeks, she heard of the marriage of her accepted lover, -and, with feelings which can well be imagined, kept herself secluded. - -To Hever the King repaired on a visit, but probably suspecting the -cause of his arrival, Anne, under the pretext of sickness, kept closely -to her chamber, which she did not leave until after his departure. -“But this reserve was more likely to animate than daunt a royal lover; -and Henry, for the purpose of restoring the reluctant lady to court, -and bringing her within the sphere of his solicitations,” created her -father Baron and Viscount Rochfort, and gave him the important post -of Treasurer of the Royal Household. He also surrounded himself with -her relatives and friends. Among those who were his chief companions -were her father, Thomas, Viscount Rochfort; her brother George; her -uncle, the Duke of Norfolk; her cousin, Sir Francis Bryan; her near -relative and admirer, Sir Henry Norris; her intimate friend, Sir -William Compton; and the King’s old favourite, the Duke of Suffolk—a -lively but dissolute society, not one of whom showed any high regard -for marriage vows, or treated their infringement as anything but a -jest. “Suffolk,” says Mr. Brewer, “had been betrothed to one lady; -then married another; then abandoned her, on the plea of his previous -contract, for the lady whom he had in the first instance rejected. -Norfolk lived with his duchess on the most scandalous terms. Sir -William Compton had been cited in the Ecclesiastical Court for living -in open adultery with a married woman. The fate of Norris and George -Boleyn is too well known to require comment. Sir Francis Bryan, the -chief companion in the King’s amusements, and the minister of his -pleasures, was pointed out by common fame as more dissolute than all -the rest.” Sir Thomas Wyatt, though married, wore her miniature round -his neck, and sang of her love. Still, however, Henry’s suit, which was -dishonourable even to one so depraved and lost to honour as he was, -was unprosperous when made; and she is said by an old writer, and one -not favourable to her, to have replied firmly to the King, “Your wife -I cannot be, both in respect of my own unworthiness, and also because -you have a queen already; and your mistress I will not be.” Foiled in -his attempt to gain her by any other means, the unscrupulous monarch -now began seriously to set himself to the task of obtaining a divorce -from Queen Catherine, who had been his wife for seventeen years, in -order that he might replace her by Anne Boleyn. The history of these -proceedings is a part of the history of the kingdom, and need not be -here detailed. It is, however, a tradition of Hever that when the -King came “a wooing” he sounded his bugle in the distance, that his -lady-love might know of his approach. The divorce being obtained, Anne -Boleyn, having previously been married to the King, became “indeed a -queen;” and having given birth to two children—Queen Elizabeth and a -still-born son—was arrested on a false and disgraceful charge, and was -beheaded, to make room for a new queen in the person of one of her own -maids of honour, Jane Seymour. - -Of the personal appearance of Queen Anne Boleyn Mr. Brewer thus -pleasantly discourses:—“The blood of the Ormonds ran in her veins. -From her Irish descent she inherited— - - ‘The black-blue Irish hair and Irish eyes.’ - -And, like the Irish Isolt of the great poet, Anne Boleyn was remarkable -for the exquisite turn of her neck and her glossy throat. She was a -little, lively, sparkling brunette, with fascinating eyes and long -black hair, which, contrary to the sombre fashion of those days, -she wore coquettishly floating loosely down her back, interlaced -with jewels. The beauty of her eyes and hair struck all beholders -alike—grave ecclesiastics and spruce young sprigs of nobility. -‘Sitting _in_ her hair on a litter’ is the feature at her coronation -which seems to have made the deepest impression upon Archbishop -Cranmer. ‘On Sunday morning (1st September, 1532), solemnly and in -public, Madame Anne being then at Windsor, _con li capilli sparsi_, -completely covered with the most costly jewels, was created by the king -Countess of Pembroke.’ George Wyatt, grandson of Sir Thomas Wyatt, the -poet, one of her admirers, describes her, in the fantastic language of -the sixteenth century, as having ‘a beauty not so whitely as clear and -fresh above all that we may esteem, which appeared much more excellent -by her favour passing sweet and cheerful. There was found, indeed, upon -the side of her nail upon one of her fingers some little show of a -nail, which yet was so small, by the report of some that have seen her, -as the work-master seemed to leave it an occasion of greater grace to -her hand, which, with the tip of one of her fingers, might be and was -usually by her hidden, without any least blemish to it.’” - -The Earl of Wiltshire (Sir Thomas Boleyn), father of the ill-fated -queen, died in 1538—two years after witnessing the beheading of his -only son, Viscount Rochfort, and of his daughter, Queen Anne Boleyn; -and on his death the family of Boleyn, in the main line, became extinct. - -After the death of the Earl, Henry, with the rapacity that kept pace -with his profligacy, claimed and seized the castle of Hever in right -of his murdered wife, and subsequently settled it upon one of his -later wives. He also purchased adjoining lands from others of the -Boleyn family, and thus enlarged the estate. The castle and manor of -Hever, and other adjoining lands, were settled upon Anne of Cleves, -after her divorce, for life, or so long as she should remain in the -kingdom, at the yearly rent of £93 13_s._ 3½_d._ She made Hever her -general place of residence, and died there according to some writers, -but at Chelsea according to others, in 1557. In “the same year the -Hever estates were sold by commissioners, authorised by the Crown, -to Sir Edward Waldegrave, lord chamberlain to the household of Queen -Mary, who, on the accession of Elizabeth, was divested of all his -employments, and committed to the Tower, where he died in 1561.” The -estates afterwards passed through the family of Humphreys to that of -Medley. - -[Illustration: _Hever Castle, from the East._] - -In 1745 Hever Castle was purchased by Timothy Waldo, of London, and -of Clapham, in Surrey. The family of Waldo is said to derive itself, -according to Hasted, from Thomas Waldo, of Lyons, in the kingdom of -France, and was among the first who publicly renounced the doctrines of -the Church of Rome, “one of the descendants of whom, in the reign of -Elizabeth, in order to escape the persecutions of the Duke d’Alva, came -over, it is said, and settled in England.” In 1575 Peter Waldo resided -at Mitcham. His eldest son, Lawrence—according to Mr. Morris Jones, -who has made much laudable research into the history of the family—had -issue, by his wife Elizabeth, no fewer than fifteen children. Of these -the twelfth child, Daniel Waldo, is the one pertaining to our present -inquiry. He was a citizen and clothworker of London, and was fined -as alderman and sheriff in 1661. He married Anne Claxton, by whom he -had issue nine children. Of these the eldest son, Daniel Waldo, some -of whose property was burnt down in the great fire of London in 1666, -married twice, and from him are descended the Waldos of Harrow. Edward, -the second son, became the purchaser, after the fire, of the sites -of the “Black Bull,” the “Cardinal’s Hat,” and the “Black Boy,” in -Cheapside, on which he erected a “great messuage,” where he dwelt; and -in which, when it was taken down in 1861, was some fine oak carving, -now at Gungrog. - -[Illustration: _Hever Castle, from the West._] - -This Edward Waldo was knighted—“at his own house in Cheapside,” the -very house he had built—by the King, who was his guest, in 1677. -On this occasion “he had the honour of entertaining his sovereign, -together with the Princesses Mary and Anne and the Duchess of York, -who, from a canopy of state in front of his house, viewed the civic -procession pass along Cheapside on its way to Guildhall.” Sir Edward -married three times. He died at his residence at Pinner in 1705, aged -seventy-five, and was buried at Harrow. Nathaniel and Isaac, third -and fourth sons of Daniel Waldo, died unmarried. Timothy, the fifth -son, we shall speak of presently. Samuel, the sixth son, citizen and -mercer of London, and freeman of the Clothworkers’ Company, married, -first, a daughter of Sir Thomas Allen, of Finchley; and, secondly, -Susan Churchman; and had, among other issue, Daniel Waldo, one of whose -daughters, Sarah (married to Israel Woolliston), died at the age of -ninety-eight, leaving her cousin, Col. Sibthorpe, M.P., her executor; -Isaac Waldo, one of whose daughters, Sarah, married Humphrey Sibthorpe, -M.D., Sheridan Professor of Botany, whose son, Humphrey Sibthorpe, M.P. -(father of Col. Sibthorpe, M.P.), assumed for himself and his heirs, -by royal sign-manual, the additional name and the arms of Waldo on -inheriting the property left him by his relative, Peter Waldo, Esq., of -Mitcham and of Warton. - -Sir Timothy Waldo, to whom allusion has been made, the purchaser of -Hever Castle, was admitted attorney of the King’s Bench and solicitor -in Chancery in 1730; in 1739 he was under-sheriff of the city of -London, and he was a liveryman and the clerk of the Salters’ Company. -In 1736 he married Catherine Wakefield, and had by her an only child, -Jane, who married, in 1762, George Medley, Esq., M.P., of Buxted. Sir -Timothy, who was knighted in 1769, died at Clapham in 1786, his wife -surviving him, and dying in 1806, aged ninety-five. - -Their sole daughter and heiress, Jane, wife of George Medley, inherited -all the property, including Hever Castle. She had no issue, and died -in 1829, in her ninety-second year, leaving her large possessions, -the personalty of which was sworn under £180,000, to her cousin, -Jane Waldo, only daughter and heiress of Edward Waldo, of London, -who administered to the estate as cousin and only next of kin. This -lady, who thus became the possessor of Hever Castle, died at Tunbridge -Wells in 1840, when the family became extinct. The name of Waldo had, -however, been taken by royal sign-manual, in 1830, by Edmund Wakefield -Meade, Esq., of Newbridge House, Dawlish, son of Francis Meade, of -Lambeth. Edmund Meade-Waldo, Esq., became resident at Stonewall Park, -near Hever Castle, which memorable edifice is still in possession of -this family. He married Harriet, second daughter of Colonel Rochfort, -M.P., by whom he left issue two sons and one daughter; the eldest son -and heir being Edmund Waldo Meade-Waldo, Esq. The daughter, Harriet -Dorothea, was married, in 1850, to the Rev. W. W. Battye, Rector of -Hever, to which living he was presented by his father-in-law. - -There are few ancient houses in the kingdom more deeply interesting -to the curious occasional visitor than Hever; it does not, however, -convey ideas of grandeur or magnificence. It never could have been -large. Certainly at no period did it supply ample room to accommodate -the suite of a luxurious monarch; and there is little doubt that the -visits of the eighth Henry were made, if not secretly, without state, -when he went to woo the unhappy lady he afterwards—and not long -afterwards—murdered. - -In the small chamber of the ground-floor, which still retains its -minstrel’s gallery and its panelling of oak, was the bad king -entertained by his victims; and in a very tiny chamber slept in pure -innocence the object of his lust—a most reluctant bride and most -miserable wife. - -[Illustration: _Anne Boleyn’s Chamber._] - -Yet Hever Castle was a stronghold, and a place well calculated for -safety in the troublous times in which it was built and embattled. It -is surrounded by a moat, across which a bridge leads to the entrance -gateway. The entrance is defended by a strong portcullis, composed of -several large pieces of wood laid across each other like a harrow, -and riveted throughout with iron, designed to be let down in case -of surprise, and when there was not time to shut the gate. To this -succeeds an iron portcullis. It is followed by an inner solid oaken -door, riveted with iron, firmly bound with iron pieces going the whole -length across, and studded with iron knobs. A wooden portcullis then -follows. Immediately adjoining these are two guardrooms, in which a -dozen men-at-arms might long dispute the passage of an enemy. - -[Illustration: _Hever Castle: the Court-yard._] - -Over the external gate, directly under the battlements, a series of -machicolations project boldly forward: from these molten lead and -other deadly appliances and missiles could be poured and discharged on -the heads of assailants with terrible effect. Passing through these -gates and beneath the portcullises, the visitor enters a spacious -court-yard, surrounded on all its sides by the building. From this -court-yard or quadrangle he enters the old Dining-hall, where the racks -for hunting-spears are still visible, and where grotesque decorations -will not fail to be noticed. In the stained-glass windows are the -arms of the Boleyns and the Howards. Near this is the Chapel, and -continuing along the passages are two rooms bearing the names of Anne -Boleyn’s Bed-room and Anne of Cleves’ Room. Anne Boleyn’s Room “is -really an interesting apartment, beautifully panelled, and contains -the original family chairs, tables, muniment box, and what is called -Anne’s bed.”[46] To this apartment several ante-rooms succeed, and the -suite terminates in a grand Gallery occupying the whole length of the -building, in which the judicial meetings and the social gatherings of -the ancient family were held. It is about 150 feet in length, by 20 -feet in width, with a vaulted roof, and panelled throughout with carved -oak. On one side, placed at equal distances apart, are three recesses: -the first, having a flight of three steps, is fitted up with elbowed -benches, where the lord of the castle in old times held his courts, -and where Henry VIII. is said, on the occasions of his visits, to have -received the congratulations of the gentry; a second was occupied by -the fire; and the third was used as a quiet corner for the old folks, -while the younger ones frolicked throughout the mazes of the dance. At -one end of the Gallery a trap-door leads to a dark chamber, called the -Dungeon, in which the family are believed to have sheltered themselves -in time of trouble, although it is manifest that the height of the -room, compared with that of the building, must have betrayed its -existence to even a careless observer. - -[Illustration: _In the Long Gallery._] - -The interior of that part properly called “the castle”—_e.g._ the -entrance—is approached by a winding staircase in one of the towers. -“About midway the staircase opens into the narrow vestibule of the -great state-room. The Gothic tracery over the fire-place is extremely -beautiful both in design and in execution. It consists of two angels, -each bearing two shields, showing the arms and alliances of the Cary -and Boleyn families, of Cary and Waldo, Boleyn and Howard, and Henry -VIII. and Boleyn.” - - - - -WESTWOOD PARK. - - -WESTWOOD—one of the very finest, most perfect, and most interesting -of the Elizabethan mansions that yet remain in England—lies about -two miles from Droitwich, in Worcestershire, and six or seven from -the “faithful city.” It stands in its own grand old deer park of some -hundreds of acres in extent, and studded with such an assemblage of -noble forest trees as is seldom seen. The oaks with which the park -abounds are almost matchless for their beautiful forms and for their -clean growth (for they are clear from moss or other extraneous growth -from bole to crest), as well as, in some instances, for their gigantic -stature. One of these “brave old oaks” in front of the mansion we had -the curiosity to measure, and found it to be no less than eighteen -yards in circumference of bole on the ground, and thirty-one feet in -circumference at three feet from the earth, with a stem hollowed by -time. It is one of the lions of the place, and looks venerable and -time-worn enough to have braved the tempests of a thousand years. -Another oak, not far from this, is one of the finest in England, having -a clear trunk, without bend or branch, “straight as a mast,” to some -forty feet or more in height before a single branch appears. - -[Illustration: _Entrance Lodge._] - -There are two Entrance Lodges to the park from the road leading from -Droitwich to Ombersley; the principal of these we engrave. Entering the -gates at this Lodge, the drive leads up the park to the mansion, which -forms a conspicuous and striking object in front, the house and its -surroundings being effectively situated on rising ground. Immediately -in front of the mansion is the Gatehouse, one of the most quaintly -picturesque in the kingdom. It consists of twin lodges of red brick, -with ornamental gables and hip-knobs, with a central open-spired turret -covering the entrance gates. The gates, which are of iron, and bear -the monogram J P (for John Pakington), are surmounted by an open-work -parapet, or frieze, of stone, in which stand clear the three garbs and -the three mullets of the Pakington arms. Over this rises the open tower -before spoken of. Passing through these gates, the drive sweeps up -between the smooth grass lawns to the slightly advanced front portico -which gives access to the mansion. - -[Illustration: _Westwood, from the Main Approach._] - -Before we enter let us say a few words on the general design and -appearance of this unique and remarkable building. The general -block-plan of the house may be described as a combination of the square -and saltire, the arms of the saltire projecting considerably from the -angles of the square, and forming what may almost be called wings, -radiating from its centre—the whole of the surface of this general -block-plan being cut up with numberless projecting mullioned windows. -The four projecting wings, which, like the rest of the building, are -three stories in height, are each surmounted with a spire. Around the -whole building runs a boldly carved stone parapet, bearing the garbs -and mullets of the Pakington arms, alternating the one with the other, -and producing a striking and pleasing effect, while the mullets also -appear on the ornamental gables, and on the vanes and hip-knobs. The -advanced porch, erected at a later period, is of stone, and is in the -_Renaissance_ style; over its central arch is Jove on the eagle; and -in front of the main building, over the porch, are the Pakington arms -boldly carved. - -Standing clear from the mansion, and at some distance in front of the -north-east and south-east wings, are two so-called “turrets.” These -are small residences, if they may so be termed, each three stories -in height, and each having two entrance doors. They are surmounted -with picturesquely formed spire roofs, covered with scale slating. -Originally there were four of these square towers—the two now -remaining, and two other corresponding ones at the opposite angles. -They were all four in existence in 1775, but two have since been -removed. At that time they were connected with the wings by walls, -and then again were connected with the Gatehouse and other walls in -a peculiar and geometrically formed device. A highly interesting and -curious bird’s-eye view of Westwood, drawn by Dorothy Anne Pakington -in the year above named, is preserved in the Hall, and shows the -arrangement of the ornamental flower-beds, terraces, fruit walls, &c., -with great accuracy. - -From the Gatehouse, on either side, an excellent fence of pillar -and rail encloses in a ring fence the mansion and its surrounding -ornamental grounds, and kitchen and other gardens. These -pleasure-grounds, several acres in extent, are admirably laid out, -and planted with evergreens of remarkably fine growth. The hedges, -or rather massive walls, of laurel, box, Portugal laurel, and other -shrubs; the grand assemblage of conifers, which here seem to find a -genial home, and to grow with unequalled luxuriance; and the cedars of -Lebanon, yews, and numberless other evergreens, form these grounds into -one of the most lovely winter gardens we have ever visited. Among the -main features of these ornamental grounds are the “Ladies’ Garden,” a -retired spot enclosed in walls of evergreens seven or eight feet in -height, having on one side an elegant summer-house, which commands -a beautiful view of the Malvern Hills and of the rich intervening -country, and in the centre a sundial surrounded by a rosary and beds -of rich flowers; and the Lavender Walk, where, between a long avenue -of tall lavender-bushes, planted by the present Lady Hampton, the -elegant and accomplished successors of the “stately dames of yore” -can stroll about and enjoy the delicious scent. Another great feature -is the splendid growth of some of the trees—notably a Wellingtonia, -nine feet in girth at the ground, and fully thirty feet in height, -and a magnificent specimen of _Picea pinsapo_, measuring ninety feet -in circumference of its branches, and said truly to be the finest and -most perfectly-grown tree of the kind in the kingdom. The kitchen -gardens are of considerable extent, and well arranged, but there is no -conservatory. Altogether the ornamental grounds are of great beauty, -and harmonize well with the character of the building. - -[Illustration: _The Gatehouse, as seen from the Mansion._] - -One of the great glories of Westwood is its water. It has three lakes, -the largest of which, no less than seventy acres in extent, forms -a grand feature in the landscape, and, with its many swans and the -numbers of wild fowl that congregate upon and around it, adds much to -the beauty of the park scenery. On one side the lake is backed up by a -wood through which, on the banks, a delightful grassy walk leads to the -Boat-house, from whose upper rooms delightful views of land and water -are obtained. - -[Illustration: _The Entrance Porch._] - -The principal apartments in this noble mansion are the Great Hall, -or Front Hall, as it is usually called; the Library, the Dining and -Drawing Rooms, the Saloon, the Grand Staircase, and the Chapel; but, -besides these, there are a number of other rooms, and all the usual -family and domestic apartments and offices. To the interior, however, -we can but devote a very brief space. - -The Entrance Porch (shown in the preceding engraving), on the north -front, opens into the Front Hall. This occupies the entire length of -the main body of the building from east to west, and is about sixty -feet in length. The entrance door is in the centre, and on either side -are deeply recessed mullioned and transomed windows, and there is a -similar window at each end. From one of the recesses a doorway and -steps lead up to the Dining-room; while from the other, in a similar -manner, access is gained to the Library. On the opposite side a doorway -leads to the Grand Staircase. This hall, one part of which is also used -as a billiard-room, contains some magnificent old carved furniture and -cabinets, and the walls are hung with family portraits. In the windows -are a series of stained-glass armorial bearings and inscriptions, -representing the arms of Pakington and the family alliances. These -are:— - - 1413. Robert Pakington and Elizabeth Acton. - - 1436. John Pakington and Margaret Ballard. - - 1490. John Pakington and Elizabeth Washbourne. - - 1537. Robert Pakington and Anne Baldwynne. - - 1559. Sir John Pakington and Anne Darcy. - - 1575. Sir Thomas Pakington and Dorothy Kytson. - - 1620. Sir John Pakington and Frances Ferrars. - - 1625. Sir John Pakington and —— Smith. - - 1633. Sir John Pakington and Margaret Keys. - - 1679. Sir John Pakington and Dorothy Coventry. - - 1727. Sir John Pakington and Hester Preest. - - 1727. Sir John Pakington and Frances Parker. - - 1743. Sir Herbert Perrot Pakington and Elizabeth Conyers. - - 1762. Sir John Pakington and Mary Bray. - - 1795. Sir Herbert Perrot Pakington and Elizabeth Hawkins. - - “1822. John Somerset Pakington, Esq., born 1799, wedyd 1stly, Mary, - dau. of Moreton Aglionby Slaney, of Shiffnall, Esq.” - - 1830. Sir John Pakington died unmarried. - - “1844. John Somerset Pakington, Esq., created Bart. 1846, wedyd - 2ndly, Augusta, dau. of Geo. Murray, Bp. of Rochester.” - -Among the portraits in this fine old room are the present Lord Hampton; -the Earl of Strafford; Hester Perrott, daughter and sole heiress of -Sir Herbert Perrott, of Haroldstone, and second wife of Sir John -Pakington, Bart.; Sir John Perrott, Lord Lieutenant of Ireland, 1583; -Margaret Pakington (afterwards Mrs. Dowdeswell), daughter of Sir John -Pakington of Hampton Lovett, the celebrated Recorder of Worcester; Sir -John Pakington, M.P. for Worcester from 1690 to 1727; Ursula, Lady -Scudamore, daughter of Sir John Pakington; and many others. - -The Dining-room, which occupies the lower story of the north-east -radiating wing, has an effective geometrical ceiling, and its walls -are hung with family portraits. The Library similarly occupies -the lower story of the corresponding or south-east wing. It is a -noble room, lined with a large and valuable assemblage of books, -and fitted and furnished in an appropriate manner. The ceiling, -whose geometric panelling and other decorations are in high relief, -bears among its other devices the mullet of the family arms. In the -Library are, among many other Art treasures, two important historical -pictures—contemporary portraits of Brandon, Duke of Suffolk, and Mary, -his wife, daughter of Henry VII., King of England, and widow of Louis -XII. of France—on panel. - -The view from these rooms is truly magnificent. Immediately in front -is the enclosed space already spoken of, with its grass lawns, its -broad carriage drives, its luxuriant shrubberies; the ivy-grown and -picturesque towers, one on either side; the grand old Gatehouse, -with its central open-work tower, and picturesque boundary railings -cutting it off from the park. Beyond this is seen the park, with its -herds of deer, its forest trees of centuries of growth dotted about -the landscape; its noble sheet of water, on which swans and wild fowl -abound; and beyond, again, the thickly wooded confines of the grounds -and the distant heights. Thus a view of imposing loveliness and of -vast extent is gained from the windows of this side of the mansion. -But, indeed, one of the main characteristics of Westwood is that, from -whatever point the mansion is seen, it forms a striking and a pleasing -object; and that, from whatever window one looks, a scene of surpassing -beauty is presented to the eye. - -[Illustration: _The Grand Staircase._] - -The Grand Staircase, of which we give an engraving, is a marked feature -of the interior of the house, and differs in general character from -any other with which we are acquainted. It is of four landings, and -at each angle, as well as in the intermediate spaces, standing clear -to a considerable height above the banisters, rises a Corinthian -pillar with richly carved capital, supporting a ball. The whole is of -dark oak, and has a rich and singular appearance. The series of these -pillars and balls numbers thirteen. The Staircase has a panelled oak -ceiling, which forms the floor of the upper gallery, from which the -bed-rooms are gained. The walls of the Staircase are hung with fine old -portraits, and others of more modern date: among them are the “Du^{sse} -Dou^e de la Tremouille, née Princesse d’Orange,” 1626; General Monk; -Master Herbert and Miss Cecilia Pakington; and the late Bishop Murray, -of Rochester, full length, by Falconer. At the foot of the Staircase -is the Baron Marochetti’s admirable bust of Lord Hampton, before that -well-deserved title was conferred upon him. It bears the following -inscription:—“Presented to Lady Pakington by the Medical Officers of -the Royal Navy, in grateful acknowledgment of the benefits conferred -upon that department of H.M. service during the administration of the -Right Hon. Sir John S. Pakington, Bart., G.C.B., &c., 1858-9.” - -[Illustration: _The Saloon._] - -From the landing at the head of the Grand Staircase access is gained, -on the one hand, to the Saloon and the apartments connected with it; -and, on the other, to Lady Hampton’s private rooms, the sleeping -apartments on the same floor, and to the staircase to the upper story. - -The Private Chapel, approached from the foot of the Staircase, occupies -the wing at the opposite angle from the Library. Its ceiling is of -oak, and it is fitted with open seats, also of oak, with fleur-de-lis -poppy-heads. The stained-glass window, representing the Adoration and -the Ascension, is remarkably good in design and pure in colouring. On -a bracket on the wall is a splendid piece of sculpture, representing -Mary Magdalene supporting the dead Christ. - -The Saloon—the principal internal feature of Westwood—occupies the -entire space, in the central block of building, over the Front Hall. -It is a noble and lofty apartment, lit by two deeply recessed large -mullioned and transomed windows to the front, and one, of equally -large size, at each end. The ceiling, although of a somewhat later -period, is a marvellously fine example of modelled plaster-work, the -wreaths and festoons of flowers standing out clear from the surface, -and modelled true to Nature. It is divided into ornamental panels, -enclosing wreaths and festoons, and round the room is a boldly moulded -and richly decorated oak frieze. In the centre of the side opposite -the windows is a massive and elaborately designed oak chimney-piece, -reaching up to the ceiling. The pillars, and mouldings, and panels, -and, indeed, every part of this fine example of ancient Art, are -elaborately carved with arabesques and foliage; the mouldings and -cornices being likewise richly carved with grotesque figures and other -characteristic ornaments. In the centre panel, over the fire-place, is -a fine contemporary half-length portrait of King Henry VIII. - -The walls are hung with grand old tapestry, and this, at three of the -corners, conceals the doors leading respectively to the Drawing-room, -the Staircase, and another apartment. The subjects of the tapestry, -commencing at the doorway from the Staircase, are—First, “Isaac, -blind; Rebecca sends Jacob for two kids.” Second, “Laban overtakes -Jacob at Mount Gilead; kisses his daughter.” Third, “Jacob kisses -Rachel at the well, and removes the stone from its mouth.” Fourth, -“Jacob brings home the kids.” Fifth, “Jacob meets his brother Esau, and -bows at his feet.” Sixth, “Jacob divides his flocks.” - -The Drawing-room opens from the Saloon, and is over the Library: it -is an elegant room, with a ceiling of moulded pargetting in scrolls -and foliage, and is of great elegance in all its appointments. At the -opposite end of the Saloon a doorway opens into an apartment over the -Dining-room. It is now disused, but, with its panelled frescoed walls -and beautifully decorated ceiling, is an apartment of much interest. - -The remainder of the rooms of this grand old mansion do not require -special notice; it is enough to say they are all full of interest, and -that they contain many pictures of value. - -[Illustration] - -OF the many families of note upon which we have treated in these pages, -few are of greater antiquity or possessed of more historic interest -than that of Pakington, of which the Right Hon. Lord Hampton is the -head. It dates from Norman times, and presents a long succession of -notables, whose history is that of the various ages in which they -lived, and moved, and had their being. It is clear, from the foundation -of Kenilworth Monastery, that the family flourished in the reign of -Henry I., and from that time down to the present moment its members -have been among the most celebrated men of the country. In the reign -of Henry IV. Robert Pakington died, and was succeeded by his son John, -who in turn was succeeded by his son of the same name, who married -Elizabeth, daughter and heiress of Thomas Washbourne, of Stanford, and -thus the family became connected with the county of Worcester. By this -lady he had issue three sons—John, Robert, and Humphrey. The eldest -of these, John Pakington, was of the Inner Temple, and was constituted -Chirographer of the Common Pleas in the reign of Henry VII., and in the -next reign was made Lent Reader and Treasurer of the Inner Temple; and -in the same year (20 Henry VIII.) had a grant from the King “that he, -the said John Pakington, for the time to come shall have full liberty -during his life to wear his hat in his presence, and his successors, or -any other person whatsoever; and not to be uncovered on any occasion or -cause whatsoever, against his will and good liking; also that he shall -not be appointed, called, or compelled to take the order of knighthood, -or degree, state, or order of a baron of the Exchequer, serjent-at-law, -or any office or encumbrance thereto relating.” - -In 1532, however, he was appointed serjeant-at-law, and received a -discharge so as to enable him to accept that office. Having been -appointed a justice of North Wales, he was, in 1535, commissioned to -conclude and compound all forfeitures, offences, fines, and sums of -money due to the King or to his late father, Henry VII. He received -many other appointsovereign ments and honours, and was ultimately -knighted. He received from the a grant of all the manors belonging -to the dissolved monastery of Westwood, and thus that fine property -came to the Pakingtons. At the time of his death, in 1560, Sir John -was seized of thirty-one manors, and of much other land which he had -purchased from seventy different persons. Leland says that he resided -“at a goodly new house of brick, called Hampton Court, six miles from -Worcester.” Sir John is variously stated to have married Anne Rolle -(widow of Tychebourne) and Anne Dacres. Whichever of these is correct, -he died without male issue, leaving his estates divided amongst his -two daughters—Ursula and Bridget—and his two brothers, Robert and -Humphrey. - -His brother, Robert Pakington, was M.P. for the City of London in the -time of Henry VIII., and was murdered in the streets of that city in -1537. By his wife, Catherine, daughter of Sir John Baldwin, Lord Chief -Justice of the Common Pleas (by his wife, a daughter of Dormer of -Wycombe, through whom the manor of Ailsbury came to the family), he had -issue one son—Sir Thomas—and three daughters. - -Sir Thomas Pakington, who was knighted by Queen Mary, succeeded -to the estates of the Pakingtons and Baldwins. He was sheriff of -Worcestershire in the 3rd of Elizabeth, and, dying in 1571, at Bath -Place, Holborn, was conveyed in great pomp to Ailsbury, the officers -of the College of Arms attending, and buried there in state. By his -wife (who survived him, and married, secondly, Sir Thomas Kitson, of -Hargrave), Sir Thomas had, with other issue, a son—Sir John, by whom -he was succeeded—and three daughters. - -Sir John Pakington, the “Lusty Pakington” of Queen Elizabeth’s Court, -was an especial favourite of the “Virgin Queen,” and a man of rank in -his day and generation. It is said that “Good Queen Bess” “first took -notice of Sir John in her progress to Worcester, where she invited -him to attend her Court, where he lived at his own expense in great -splendour and reputation, with an equipage not inferior to some of the -highest officers, although he had no greater honour than Knight of the -Bath, which was conferred upon him in the lifetime of his father. He -was remarkable for his stature and comely person, and had distinguished -himself so much by his manly exercises that he was called ‘Lusty -Pakington.’” - -[Illustration: _North-east View._] - -“Having by his expensive life contracted great debts, he took the wise -resolution of retiring into the country, and said he would feed on -bread and verjuice until he had made up for his extravagances; which -coming to the royal ear, the queen gave him a grant of a gentleman’s -estate in Suffolk, worth eight or nine hundred pounds a year, besides -goods and chattels, which had been escheated to the Crown; but after -he had been in the country to take possession, he could not behold -the miseries of the distressed family without remorse and compassion; -and the melancholy spectacle of the unhappy mother and her children -wrought so effectually upon his fine feelings, that he repaired to -court immediately, and humbly besought the queen to excuse him from -enriching himself by such means, and did not leave the presence until -he had obtained his request, which involved the restoration of the -property to the rightful owner. Soon after this he left the court, -but not before he had liquidated all his debts, and then, with great -reputation and honour, he commenced his journey into the country, being -handsomely attended by servants and tenants to the number of sixty, -well mounted and appointed, who came purposely from his estates to -pay him this compliment, and waited at the court gates while he was -taking leave of the queen. After settlement in the country, Elizabeth -granted him for sixty years (in the 25th of her reign), for his good -and faithful services, several lordships, manors, and lands which had -fallen to the Crown, in no less than seventeen counties. He was also -constituted lieutenant and _Custos Rotulorum_ of Worcestershire, and -appointed bowbearer of Malvern Chase, one of the best in England, which -he retained until he had finished his noble park at Hampton Lovet; -and then, that chase being at too great a distance from his dwelling, -he obtained the queen’s leave to dispose of it. He was in Elizabeth’s -favour to the end, as appears as well from other evidence as from a -grant she made him for eight years (in the 40th year of her reign, he -paying into the Exchequer £40 per annum) that no one should import -into the kingdom, or make any starch, but by his permission. By his -affability and obliging deportment he acquired the good opinion of his -equals and inferiors, and by his courage and resolution on occasions -requiring the exercise of those attributes, he became formidable -to persons in power. A memorable instance of this occurred when he -executed the office of sheriff for his county. The Lord Chief Baron -Periam having committed a gentleman at the assizes, Sir John, sitting -in his sheriff’s seat, called to him to stay, telling the judge he -would answer for his forthcoming; neither could he be dissuaded by -all the menaces he received, boldly alleging in his defence that the -gentleman was his prisoner, and he as sheriff was accountable for him. -Sir John is said on one occasion to have betted with three courtiers -to swim against them from Westminster, _i.e._ Whitehall Stairs, to -Greenwich for a stake of £3,000; but Queen Elizabeth, out of her -special regard for him, and her fear for his life or health, by her -imperative command prevented it.” “The good queen,” it is said, “who -had particular tenderness for ‘handsome fellows,’ would not permit Sir -John to run the hazard of the trial.” - -From this worthy member of a worthy family the popular tune of -“Pakington’s Pound,” or “Paggington’s Pound,” which has held its own -for three centuries, takes its origin. This tune, which in Queen -Elizabeth’s Virginal Book is named “Packington’s Pound,” is called by -Ben Jonson “Paggington’s Pound,” as also in an ancient MS. “A Fancy -of Sir John Paginton” appears in many of the early books of tunes, -and numberless ballads were written to it. Even Shakspere’s ballad -(supposed to have been written by him) on Sir Thomas Lucy is written -to this tune. It has been stated by some writers that, besides the tune -of “Pakington’s Pound,” that of “Sir Roger de Coverley” took its origin -from this worthy; but this is surely a mistake, as the latter tune -takes its origin from one of the Calverleys of Yorkshire. - -Sir John Pakington married the daughter of Mr. Humphrey South, Queen -Elizabeth’s silkman, of Cheapside, London, the representative of -an ancient family in Leicestershire. She was the widow of Alderman -Barnham, “who left her very rich; and that consideration, together -with her youth and beauty, made it impossible for her to escape the -addresses even of the greatest persons about the court; but Sir John -was the only happy man who knew how to gain her, being recommended -by his worthy friend, Mr. William Seabright, town clerk of London, -who had purchased the manor of Besford, in Worcestershire.” This -lady, by her first husband, had four daughters; and by Sir John one -son—John, his successor—and two daughters: Anne, married, first, to -Sir Humphrey Ferrars, Knt., of Tamworth, and, secondly, to Philip, -Earl of Chesterfield; and Mary, who married Sir Robert Brooke, of -Nacton, Master of the Ceremonies to James I. Sir John died in 1625, -aged seventy-seven, and his widow married, thirdly, Lord Kilmurry; and, -fourthly, Thomas, Earl of Kelly. - -By this great Sir John Pakington the house at Westwood was erected. -“After he had finished his stately structure at Westwood,” it is -recorded, “Sir John invited the Earl of Northampton, Lord President, -and his countess to a housewarming; and as his lordship was a jovial -companion, a train of above one hundred knights and gentlemen -accompanied him, who staid for some time, and at their departure -acknowledged they had met with so kind a reception _that they did not -know whether they had possessed the place or the place them_. The -delightful situation of his mansion was what they had never before -seen, the house standing in the middle of a wood cut into twelve large -ridings, and at a good distance one riding through all of them: the -whole surrounded by a park of six or seven miles, with, at the further -end facing the house, an artificial lake of one hundred and twenty-two -acres. His most splendid entertainment was given, however, to James I. -and his queen at Ailsbury, when his majesty honoured him with a visit -after his arrival from Scotland, before his coronation. Upon this -occasion he set no bounds to expense, thinking it a disparagement to be -outdone by any fellow-subject when such an opportunity offered; and -the king and court declared that they had never met with a more noble -reception.” - -Lloyd, in his “Lives of the Statesmen and Favourites of England since -the Reformation,” thus speaks of Sir John Pakington:—“His handsome -features look the most, and his neat parts the wisest at court. He -could smile ladies to his service, and argue statesmen to his design -with equal ease. His reason was powerful, his beauty more. Never was -a brave soul more bravely seated; nature bestowed great parts on him, -education polished him to an admirable frame of prudence and virtue; -Queen Elizabeth called him her Temperance, and Leicester his Modesty. -It is a question to this day whether his resolution took the soldiers, -his prudence the politicians, his compliance the favourites, his -complaisance the courtiers, his piety the clergy, his integrity and -condescension the people, or his knowledge the learned, most. This new -court star was a nine days’ wonder, engaging all eyes until it set, -satisfied with its own glory. He came to court, he said, as Solomon -did, to see its vanity, and retired, as he did, to repent it. It was -he who said first, what Bishop Sanderson urged afterwards, _that a -sound faith was the best divinity, a good conscience the best law, and -temperance the best physic_. Sir John Pakington in Queen Elizabeth’s -time was virtuous and modest, and Sir John Pakington in King Charles’s -time loyal and valiant; the one did well, the other suffered so. -Greenham was his favourite, Hammond his; the one had a competent -estate and was contented, the other hath a large one and is noble; -this suppresseth factions in the kingdom, the other composed them in -the court, and was called by courtiers Moderation. Westmorland tempted -his fidelity, and Norfolk his steadfastness, but he died in his bed an -honest and a happy man.” - -His son and heir, John Pakington, was created a baronet in 1620, as -Sir John Pakington of Ailsbury, where he resided. He married Frances, -daughter of Sir John Ferrars, of Tamworth (who married, as her second -husband, the Earl of Leven): by her he had issue one son, John, and -two daughters. John died at the early age of twenty-four, during -the lifetime of his father, and was succeeded in the baronetcy by -his infant son, who ultimately became possessed of the whole of his -grandfather’s estates. - -[Illustration: _The North Front._] - -Sir John Pakington, the second baronet, who was only five years of -age when he succeeded, was placed under the guardianship of the Lord -Keeper Coventry, “by whose vigilant care of his education, both by -travel and other advantages, he became a most accomplished gentleman.” -He was elected M.P. for Worcestershire (15 Charles I.), and when -the rebellion broke out was member for Ailsbury; and, having on all -occasions given proofs of his fidelity to the Crown and the rights of -the subject, was intrusted by the King, in 1642, with a commission for -arraying men for his service in Worcestershire, on account of which he -was taken prisoner, committed to the Tower, and fined £5,000; had his -estate sequestered, his house in Buckinghamshire (one of the best in -that county) levelled with the ground, and such great waste committed -in his woods, that an estimate of the loss, still remaining, in the -handwriting of his lady, amounts to £20,348. His zeal in the loyal -cause never swerved, for, notwithstanding he had suffered so much for -his loyalty, he had the courage to join King Charles II. with a troop -of horse at the battle of Worcester, and was taken prisoner there, -yet was so popular that, when afterwards tried for his life, not one -witness could be produced to swear against him. He was consequently -acquitted and set at liberty, but afterwards fined £7,670, and -compelled, “for the said fine, to convey the market-house, the tolls, -the court leet, and certain grounds called Heyden Hill, parcel of the -estate at Ailsbury, to Thomas Scott (who was one of the king’s judges), -and other trustees, for the use of the town, which they kept until -after the Restoration, when, by a special act of parliament, the said -conveyances were made void.” - -Sir John married Dorothy, daughter of his guardian, the Lord Keeper -Coventry, by whom he had issue one son, his successor, and two -daughters. This lady, Dorothy Pakington, was a woman of remarkable -talent, and possessed of every acquirement which a natural goodness of -disposition and the best tutorship could give. To her gifted mind it -is, with all but positive certainty, averred that the world is indebted -for that admirable book—about which almost as much controversy has -been evoked as over the “Letters of Junius”—“The Whole Duty of Man,” -and for the several other works by the same pen. The authorship of -“The Whole Duty of Man” has been variously ascribed to Lady Pakington, -Archbishop Sancroft, Archbishop Frewen, Archbishop Sterne, Bishop Fell, -Bishop Chapel, William Allestry, Abraham Woodhead, William Fulman, and -others; but the weight of probability, and certainly the weight of -evidence, goes to prove that that honour belongs to her ladyship. An -almost incontrovertible evidence of Lady Pakington being its authoress -“arises from the assertions of Archbishop Dolben, and Bishops Fell and -Allestry, who are said to have declared this of their own knowledge, -after her death, which she obliged them to keep private during her -life—_that she really was the author of that best and most masculine -religious book extant in the English language, ‘The Whole Duty of -Man.’_” Upon a finely sculptured monument in Hampton Lovett Church -she and her husband are recorded in these words:—“In the same church -lyes Sir John Pakington, Kt. and Bart., and his lady, grandfather and -grandmother to the said Sir John. The first, try’d for his life and -spent the greatest part of his fortune in adhering to King Charles I.; -and the latter justly reputed the authoress of the Whole Duty of Man, -who was exemplary for her great piety and goodness.” Sir John died in -1680, and was succeeded by his son— - -Sir John Pakington, who, having married Margaret, daughter of Sir John -Keys, died in 1688, and was in turn succeeded by his only child, Sir -John Pakington, the fourth baronet, who, when only nineteen years -of age, became M.P. for Worcestershire, and so remained, with one -exception, when he voluntarily withdrew himself, to the time of his -death. He was “a strenuous asserter of the rights and liberties of -the country,” and in 1702 preferred that remarkable complaint against -the Bishop of Worcester and his son for unduly interfering in the -elections, which resulted in the Bishop being removed by the Queen from -his office of almoner, and other proceedings being taken. Sir John -married, first, Frances, daughter of Sir Henry Parker; and, secondly, -Hester, daughter and sole heiress of Sir Herbert Perrott. By his first -marriage he had issue two sons, who died young, and two daughters, one -of whom married Viscount Tracy. By his second wife, Hester Perrott, Sir -John had a son, Sir Herbert Perrott Pakington, by whom, on his death in -1727, he was succeeded. - -[Illustration: _The Principal Front._] - -Sir Herbert Perrott Pakington, fifth baronet, M.P. for Worcestershire, -married, in 1721, Elizabeth, daughter of John Conyers, Esq., of -Walthamstow, and by her had issue two sons—John and Herbert Perrott, -each of whom enjoyed the baronetcy—and two daughters. Dying in 1748, -he was succeeded by his son— - -Sir John Pakington, as sixth baronet, who married Mary, daughter of -Henry Bray, Esq., of Bromyard, but, dying in 1762 without issue, was -succeeded by his brother— - -Sir Herbert Perrott Pakington, as seventh baronet. Sir Herbert married, -in 1759, Elizabeth, daughter of Cæsar Hawkins, Esq., and widow of -Herbert Wylde, Esq., of Ludlow, and by her had issue two sons and four -daughters—viz. John, his successor; Thomas, who died without issue; -Dorothy; Anne; Louisa; and Elizabeth, who married William Russell, -Esq., of Powick, Worcestershire, by which marriage she had an only son, -the present Lord Hampton, who, as will be shown, ultimately succeeded -to the estates. Sir Herbert Perrott Pakington died in 1795, and was -succeeded, as eighth and last baronet, by his son— - -Sir John Pakington, D.C.L. This gentleman was born in 1760, and -died without issue, and unmarried, in 1830, when the title became -extinct, and the estates passed to his nephew, John Somerset Russell, -Esq. (son of his sister, Elizabeth Pakington, by her marriage with -William Russell, Esq., of Powick), who at once assumed the family name -of Pakington in lieu of that of Russell, and became John Somerset -Pakington, Esq., and is the present noble owner of Westwood. - -The Right Hon. Lord Hampton—the first peer of the family—was born in -1799, and, as we have stated, is the son of William Russell, Esq., by -his wife, Elizabeth Pakington. He succeeded, as John Somerset Russell, -to the estates of his uncle, Sir John Pakington, in 1830, and assumed -the patronymic of Pakington in lieu of his own name of Russell. He -was educated at Eton and at Oriel College, Oxford. In 1837 he was -elected M.P. for Droitwich, which town he continued to represent until -1874, when, after nearly forty years of able, useful, and faithful -public servitude, he was defeated at the general election. In 1846 he -was created a baronet, by the name of Sir John Somerset Pakington, -of Westwood Park. In 1852 Sir John held office as Secretary of State -for the Colonies; in 1858-9 was a member of the Committee of Council -for Education; in 1858-9, and again in 1866-7, was first Lord of the -Admiralty; and in 1867-8 was Secretary of State for War. In 1874 -he was created Baron Hampton, of Hampton Lovett and of Westwood, in -the county of Worcester, in the peerage of the United Kingdom. Lord -Hampton, who is a Privy Councillor, a G.C.B., an Hon. D.C.L. of Oxford, -an Elder Brother of the Trinity House, a Magistrate, for many years -Chairman of the County Quarter Sessions, and Deputy Lieutenant of the -county, has married three times: first, in 1822, Mary (who died in -1843), daughter of Moreton Aglionby Slaney, Esq., by whom he has issue -living one son, the Hon. John Slaney Pakington (heir to the title and -estates), who was born in 1826, and married, in 1849, the Lady Diana -Boyle, daughter of the Earl of Glasgow; secondly, in 1844, Augusta -Anne (who died in 1848), daughter of the Right Rev. George Murray, -D.D., Bishop of Rochester, by whom he has issue living one son, the -Hon. Herbert Perrott Murray Pakington, born in 1848; thirdly, in 1851, -Augusta, daughter of Thomas Champion de Crespigny, Esq., and widow of -Colonel Davis, M.P., of Elmley Park, Worcestershire, by whom he has no -issue. - -Lord Hampton is by no means entirely, or even mainly, indebted for -renown to the high positions he has occupied, although they are among -the very highest. There have been, of late years, few projects designed -and calculated to benefit mankind to which he has not been, in some -way, a contributor; foremost, indeed, he has always been in every good -work that may lessen suffering, extend social advantages, and advance -the cause of education and religion. The descendant and representative -of a race that has for centuries given to England true patriots, in the -best sense of the word, he has been a powerful benefactor wherever his -influence could reach. - -The arms of Lord Hampton, who is patron of the living of Hampton -Lovett, are—per chevron, _sable_ and _argent_; in chief three mullets, -_or_, and in base as many garbs, one and two, _gules_. Crest—an -elephant, _or_. Supporters—dexter, an elephant, _or_; sinister, a -talbot, _argent_; each charged on the shoulder with a mullet, pierced, -_sable_. Motto—“Fidelis et audax.” His seats are Westwood Park, -Droitwich, and Powick Court, Worcester. - -The pretty little Church of Hampton Lovett—one of the burial-places -of the family—lies about two miles from the mansion, from which it -is approached by a delightful drive across the park and the outlying -portions of the estate. The Church is charmingly situated, and -possesses some features of interest. It consists of a nave, chancel, -and north aisle, with a tower at the west end, and contains a modern -stone pulpit of exquisite design; and, besides recent stained-glass -windows, there are some good remains of ancient armorial stained glass, -including the royal and Pakington arms, &c. In the chancel, which is -paved with encaustic tiles, is a piscina on the south side, and on the -north a fine canopied tomb, on which has been placed an explanatory -brass plate, bearing the inscription, “This monument was discovered -behind another, which was removed to the west wall of the side chapel, -during the repair of the church in 1859. Though much mutilated, -the design was preserved, and the heraldic escutcheons (which were -uninjured) show it to have been erected to the memory of Sir John -Pakington, Kt., of Hampton Lovett, and Anne, his wife, daughter of -Henry Dacres, sometime Sheriff of London. He was eminent as a Lawyer -and a Judge, and amongst other honours received a grant of the lands of -Westwood from King Henry VIII.” - -[Illustration: _Hampton Lovett Church._] - -The monument here noted as being removed in 1859 stands against the -west wall of the north aisle, or “side chapel.” It is a fine piece of -sculpture in the style of Roubilliac, with a semi-recumbent figure of -St. John. It bears this highly interesting inscription:—“Here lyes -Sir John Pakington, Kt. and Bart., aged 55 years, an indulgent father -to his children, a kind master to his servants, charitable to the poor, -loyal to the king, and faithful to his country. Who served in many -parliaments for the county of Worcester speaking his mind there without -reserve; neither fearing nor flattering those in power, but despising -all their offers of title and preferment upon base and dishonourable -terms of competition. He was chosen Recorder for the City of Worcester -the 21st day of February, 1725, in the room of Other, Earl of Plymouth, -deceased, which few ever enjoyed the honour of under the degree of a -Peer of the Realm. He dyed the 13th of Augt., 1727. In the same church -lyes Sir John Pakington, Kt. and Bart., and his lady, grandfather and -grandmother to the said Sir John. The fyrst try’d for his life and -spent the greatest part of his fortune in adhering to King Charles I., -and the latter justly reputed the Authoress of The Whole Duty of Man, -who was exemplary for her great piety and goodness.” There is also a -tablet to Dorothy Anne, second daughter and co-heiress of Sir Herbert -Perrott Pakington, 1846; her father, 1785; her mother, Dame Elizabeth -Pakington, daughter of Sir Cæsar Hawkins, 1783; and Sir John Pakington, -1830; and one to the memory of Mary, the first wife of Lord Hampton, -and daughter of Moreton Aglionby Slaney, Esq., who was born in 1799 and -died in 1843. - -In the churchyard are some venerable yew-trees, and near the path is a -tall and lovely cross, of simple but effective design, restored by Lord -Hampton in memory of his second wife. At the head of the lofty shaft -is a crocketed cross bearing the sacred monogram: beneath this are -beautifully sculptured figures of the four evangelists under crocketed -canopies. At the base are the four evangelistic symbols, and beneath is -the inscription, “To the beloved memory of Augusta Anne, second wife -of Sir John Pakington, Bart., this cross was restored A.D. MDCCCXLIX. -She was the daughter of George Murray, Lord Bishop of Rochester, and -departed this life in the true faith of Christ, February xxiii., -MDCCCXLVIII., after the birth of her second child, and in the XXXIST -year of her age. + Not my will but thine be done.” - -We said, at the commencement of our notice, that Westwood Park lies -a couple of miles or so from Droitwich, and it therefore behoves us, -before closing, to say a word or two about that town, and the “healing -waters” which are its great attraction and blessing. - -The neighbourhood of Westwood and Droitwich is very charming, the -walks and drives are beautiful, and the whole locality is rich in -historic lore and in antiquated traditions. Venerable church towers, -pretty villages, homely yet comfortable cottages, fruitful orchards, -productive meadows and corn lands, delicious lanes rich in wild -flowers, wooded slopes, broad and narrow rivers (notably, majestic -Severn), are in view from any ascent. But the eye takes in more than -these: ancient mansions are numerous; among them several of our -justly boasted baronial halls. There are houses of prosperous gentry, -and picturesque dwellings of wood and plaster of a long-ago time. -Indeed, the rich and the poor may be equally content with their lot -in this fair, fertile, and rarely gifted locality. It is suggestive -of prosperity, and indicative of content, although the whistle of the -railroad is often heard, and the mysterious wires of the telegraph -skirt the principal highways. The distant views are even more graceful -and majestic than those near at hand. Grand old Malvern, the Abberley -Hills, the Clees, the “hunchbacked Wrekin,” the Clents, the Lickeys, -Tardebigge, Astwood, and even the far-off Cotswolds, may be seen from -any of the neighbouring heights. - -Droitwich itself is a town devoid of beauty or interest, but it is -situated in a lovely district, with a glorious country around it, and a -neighbourhood rich in scenery and in picturesque localities. Internally -the town is a “land of many waters,” its brine wells, from which -thousands of gallons per hour are constantly being pumped up, producing -an enormous quantity of salt, which is sent out to supply the tables, -and the workshops, and the manufactories of our native population, as -well as to help to render our fields more prolific, and find employment -for nearly the whole of its population. Droitwich, there can be no -doubt, is a town of Roman foundation, and its salt-works were worked by -that people on precisely the same system of evaporation in vats as now. -A portion of an interesting Romano-British tesselated pavement—part of -a Roman villa—was discovered here some few years ago, and is preserved -at Worcester. It is indisputable evidence of Droitwich and its springs -being known to the Romans. Although small, and mainly depending for -its prosperity on its salt-works, Droitwich has always, since the -Conquest, been a place of importance, and until the passing of the -Reform Bill sent two members to Parliament; it now sends only one. It -is governed by a mayor and corporation, possesses abundance of schools -and charitable institutions, has spacious churches and other places of -worship, and has every facility of railway and canal communication. - -The main feature of the place, however, is its recently re-established -Brine Baths. The efficacy of the saline springs was first brought into -notice of late years during the sad visitation of cholera to the town -in 1831. In that year, when numbers of the inhabitants were being -carried off by the pest, some parties, in their agonies of distress and -their desire to find means of saving the lives of those near and dear -to them, dipped the sufferers into the warm brine in the evaporating -vats of the salt-works, and this was found to produce such marvellous -results that it was generally adopted; indeed, it is affirmed that all -who were so treated, even those in a state of collapse, recovered from -the attack. The fame of these cures spread far and wide, and numbers -being brought there for that and other complaints, it was determined -to form a bath. This was done, and the efficacy of the brine firmly -established. Later on a company was formed; but although baths were -erected, and patients were not wanting to visit them, the whole matter -fell into a state of unfortunate inanition, despite the attention -which had been directed to the place by Dr. Hastings and other men of -eminence. In 1871 Mr. Bainbrigge, F.R.C.S., a medical man of enlarged -experience and skill, visited the baths for the purpose of examining, -and analyzing, and reporting upon their properties and efficacy. -The result was, that a joint-stock company for the erection of new -baths, the opening up of the curative properties of the waters, and -the development of Droitwich into an inland sea-bathing place, was -formed, and baths were erected. These baths were opened in 1873, and -since then the whole affair has passed into the hands of a few private -individuals. The old George Hotel, with its pleasant garden (closely -adjoining the bath), has been converted into a private boarding-house, -and about eight acres of pleasure-grounds and gardens, with here and -there a pleasant residence attached, have been added and laid out with -taste. - -The visitor will find many objects of interest in Droitwich; and many -places of note—Whitely Court, the truly “Stately Home” of the Earl of -Dudley, being one of them—are within easy drive of the place. - - - - -MELBOURNE HALL. - - -MELBOURNE HALL is interesting from the curious and unique character of -its gardens rather than from the elegance or beauty of the house; but -it possesses in its historical associations, and its connection with -famous families, a larger share of importance than falls to the lot -of many more pretentious places. It is to the history of the “Home,” -and its charming and curious grounds, as well as to the history of the -noble families to which it has belonged, that we purpose to direct -attention. - -Melbourne itself—from which is derived the title of Viscount -Melbourne, as well as the name of the thriving city of Melbourne, -in our far-distant dominion of Australia—is a small manufacturing -and market town in Derbyshire, being situated on the borders of -Leicestershire, and lying in the charming valley of the Trent. It -is only eight miles from Derby, from which place it is conveniently -reached by a branch railway; it is, therefore, now, since the opening -of this line, of easy access from that great centre of railway traffic. -The town contains some goodly manufactories of silk and Lisle-thread -gloves, figured lace, &c., for which it is much noted; and it is also -well known for its productive gardens and nurseries. It is but seven -miles from famous Ashby-de-la-Zouch, the scene of Sir Walter Scott’s -undying “Ivanhoe,” and where the splendid ruins of the grand old -castle of the Zouches still stand in all their beauty, and are among -the most majestic and picturesque in the kingdom, Kenilworth scarcely -excepted. Melbourne is also within some few miles of Calke Abbey, the -elegant seat of Sir John Harpur Crewe, Bart.; and not much farther -from Donington Park, the seat of the late Marquis of Hastings and the -present Earl of Loudoun; Staunton Harold, the charming residence of -Earl Ferrers; and Elvaston Castle, the ancient seat of the Earl of -Harrington, whose gardens are much of the same character as those we -are about to describe. Indeed, the whole district, turn in whatever -direction one may, is full of interest and beauty. - -At Melbourne, as stated in Domesday Book, King Edward VI. held “six -carucates of land for geld. Land for six ploughs. The King has one -plough there, and twenty villanes, and six bordars, having five -ploughs. A priest and a church there, and one mill of three shillings, -and twenty-four acres of meadow. Wood, pasturable, one mile in length -and half a mile in breadth. In the time of King Edward it was worth -ten pounds; now six pounds; yet it renders ten.” It was from very -early times a royal manor, and was granted by King John to Hugh de -Beauchamp, whose eldest son gave it in marriage with his daughter to -William Fitz-Geoffrey, but within a short period it again reverted to -the Crown. By Henry III. it was, in 1229, granted to Philip de Marc, -from whom it again passed into the sovereign’s hands. The manor and -castle were afterwards held by Edmund, Earl of Lancaster, brother to -Edward I., and passed to his son Thomas, by whom they were conveyed -to King Edward II., who granted them to Robert de Holland. This -person was summoned to Parliament as a baron, but having joined in -the insurrection, he surrendered himself at Derby, and was ultimately -beheaded for high treason, and his estates were confiscated. They -were then held by Henry, Earl of Lancaster, who had a grant of a -market, &c.; and they continued attached to the earldom and duchy -of Lancaster until 1604, when they were given by King James to the -Earl of Nottingham, who soon afterwards conveyed them to the Earl of -Huntingdon, from whom they passed to the Marquis of Hastings. - -In the reign of Henry V. the country around the royal manor and castle -of Melbourne sent many warriors to the battle of Agincourt; and -although it may be a question whether the hills in the neighbourhood, -which are called “Derby Hills” to this day, or those in the Peak, at -the north end of the county, are intended in the ballad— - - “Recruit me Cheshire and Lancashire, - And Derby Hills that are so free; - No marry’d man or widow’s son: - For no widow’s curse shall go with me. - - “They recruited Cheshire and Lancashire, - And Derby Hills that are so free; - No marry’d man or widow’s son: - Yet there was a jovial bold company”— - -certain it is that Derbyshire men were among the most valiant in -that battle, and that John, Duke of Bourbon, who was taken prisoner, -was brought to Melbourne Castle, and there kept in close confinement -for nineteen years. Melbourne Castle, now entirely destroyed, is -traditionally said to have been founded by Alfred the Great in 900. -There appears, however, to be no mention of it until 1307. In 1319 it -passed into the hands of Thomas de Holland, who obtained a license to -crenellate the place in the fourth year of Edward II. In 1322 “John de -Hardshull was joined in the governorship of the castles of Melbourne -and Donington,” and a few years later it became the property of Thomas, -Earl of Lancaster. In 1414. as already stated, John, Duke of Bourbon, -was prisoner here under Sir Ralph Shirley, the governor of the castle, -and afterwards under Nicholas Montgomery, the then governor. It is -said to have been dismantled by order of Margaret, Queen of Henry VI. -It was, it seems, repaired by Edward IV., and in Henry VIII.’s reign -is said to have been in “good reparation.” In 1602 a survey was made, -by order of Queen Elizabeth, by Thomas Fanshawe, then auditor of the -duchy of Lancaster, in which it is said, “Her Majesty hath a faire and -ancient castle which she keepeth in her own hands, and that Gilbert, -Earl of Shrewsbury, was then constable of the same and bailiffe there -by letters patent during his life, with the annual fee of £10.” It -afterwards came into the hands of the Huntingdons, and was suffered to -fall into decay. The site now belongs to Mr. Hastings. - -Melbourne was formerly in the honour of Tutbury, its officers in that -honour being the “Steward of Melbourne,” the “Constable of Melbourne -Castle,” the “Keeper of Melbourne Park,” and the “Bayliffe of -Melbourne.” - -The Bishops of Carlisle had formerly a palace and a park at Melbourne, -and occasionally resided there, the palace being near the church, -tolerably close to the castle, and on the site of what is now Melbourne -Hall. After being long held on lease from the see, it ultimately became -the property of the Coke family. An arch, in the early English style, -conjectured to have belonged to the old nunnery near the church, was -taken down about 1821. - -The Cokes, to whom Melbourne Castle and Hall belonged, are an -old Derbyshire family, whose estates lay principally at Trusley, -Marchington, Thurvaston, Pinxton, Egginton, and other places, The head -of the family, in the forty-third year of the reign of Edward III., -was Hugh Coke, son of Robert Coke. His eldest son, Thomas, married -Elizabeth, daughter and co-heiress of Thomas Odingsells. By this lady, -who brought the Trusley estates into the family, he had issue a son, -William Coke, who, marrying Joan, daughter of John Hilton, by her had -issue a son, William Coke, who, by his first wife, Cicely Brentwood, -had a son, also William Coke, by whom he was succeeded. This William -Coke married a daughter of Sir Ralph Longford, by whom he had issue -his son and successor, William Coke, who, marrying Dorothy, daughter -of Ralph Fitzherbert, of Tissington, had issue two sons—John and -Richard—and six daughters, viz. Elizabeth, Dorothy, Margaret, Anne, -Ellen, and Mabel. He was succeeded by his son, Richard Coke, who -married Mary, daughter and sole heiress to Thomas Sacheverell, by -whom he acquired considerable property. By this marriage Richard Coke -had issue six sons—viz. Sir Francis Coke, of Trusley, Knt.; Sir John -Coke, Secretary of State; Thomas Coke; Philip Coke; George Coke, Bishop -of Hereford and Bristol; and Robert Coke—and four daughters, viz. -Elizabeth, Mary, Margaret, and Dorothy. - -[Illustration: _Arms of Coke._] - -Sir John Coke, the first of the family who settled at Melbourne, was -born in 1563, and greatly distinguished himself by his learning. He was -successively Professor of Rhetoric at Cambridge, Secretary of the Navy, -Master of the Court of Requests, Secretary of State to King Charles I., -and for several years a member of Parliament, where he took an active -and dignified part in the debates. Sir John, who died in 1644, was -married twice: first, to Mary, daughter of John Powell, of Presteign, -by whom he had issue; and, secondly, to Joan, daughter of Alderman Sir -John Lee, Knt., and widow of Alderman Gore. He was succeeded by his son -(by his first wife), Thomas Coke, whose son (by his wife Mary, daughter -of —— Pope, of Wolferston), John Coke, married Mary, daughter of Sir -Thomas Leventhorpe, by whom, with other issue, he had three sons, one -of whom, the Right Hon. Thomas Coke, became Vice-Chamberlain to Queen -Anne and King George I., and served in Parliament for many years. -This gentleman was so great a favourite with his sovereign, Queen -Anne, that she presented to him, among other marks of royal favour, -the two splendid vases now placed in the grounds of Melbourne Hall. -By his first wife, Mary, daughter of Philip, Earl of Chesterfield, -he had issue two daughters—Mary, married to Viscount Southwell, and -Elizabeth, married to Bache Thornhill, Esq.; and by his second wife, -the Hon. Mary Hale, sister of Bernard Hale, Esq., one of the maids of -honour to Queen Anne, he had issue, with others, a daughter, Charlotte, -who became his sole heiress on the death of her brother, George Lewis -Coke. - -This Charlotte Coke married, in 1740, Sir Matthew Lamb, Bart., of -Brockett Hall, Hertfordshire, nephew and co-heir of Peniston Lamb, -Esq., and was the mother, by him, of Sir Peniston Lamb, Bart., who -was created Baron Melbourne, Baron Kilmore, and Viscount Melbourne of -Melbourne. His wife was Elizabeth, daughter of Sir Ralph Milbanke, by -whom he had four sons and three daughters—viz. the Hon. Peniston Lamb, -who died unmarried; the Hon. William Lamb, who succeeded him; the Hon. -Frederick James Lamb, who also succeeded to the titles and estates; the -Hon. George Lamb, M.P. (well known for his literary attainments), who -married Mdlle. Caroline Rosalie St. Jules; the Hon. Emily Mary Lamb, -married, first, to Earl Cowper, and, secondly, to Viscount Palmerston; -the Hon. Harriette Lamb; and a daughter who died in infancy. Lord -Melbourne, who died in 1828, was succeeded in his titles and estates, -as second viscount, by his second son, William, who, after holding many -important posts, and taking an active part in the administration of -this country, became Prime Minister. He was born in 1779, and educated -at Eton, Cambridge, and Glasgow, and in 1804 was called to the bar. In -1805 he entered Parliament, and in the same year married Lady Caroline -Ponsonby, daughter of the Earl of Bessborough, a lady who became, as -“Lady Caroline Lamb,” distinguished in the literary circles of the day. - -[Illustration: _Melbourne Hall, from the Garden._] - -In 1818 Mr. Lamb became Secretary for Ireland under Canning, and so -continued under the next two administrations. In 1828 he succeeded to -the titles and estates as second Viscount Melbourne, Baron Melbourne, -and Baron Kilmore. In 1830 his lordship became Home Secretary, and -in July, 1834, was made Prime Minister, but only retained that -office till the following November. In 1835 he again became Prime -Minister, and so continued until 1841. Being Premier at the time -of the Queen’s accession to the throne, Lord Melbourne became her -Majesty’s confidential adviser. His lordship died, in 1848, without -surviving issue, when the title passed to his brother, the Hon. -Frederick Lamb, who had been, in 1839, created Baron Beauvale, and -had held many important posts. His lordship, who married the Countess -Adela, daughter of Count Maltzan, Prussian Ambassador at Vienna, died -without issue, when the title became extinct. The estates then passed -to his only surviving sister, the Hon. Emily Mary, married, first, -to Earl Cowper, and, secondly, to the late Prime Minister, Viscount -Palmerston. This lady was born in 1787, and married, in 1805, Peter -Leopold Louis Francis, fifth Earl Cowper, by whom she had issue—George -Augustus Frederick, Viscount Fordwich, who became sixth Earl Cowper; -Lady Emily Caroline Catherine, married, in 1830, to the present Earl -of Shaftesbury; the Hon. William Francis Cowper, who, on the death of -Lady Palmerston, in 1869, became the owner, under his will, of Lord -Palmerston’s estates, and assumed the additional surname of Temple -(Cowper-Temple); the Hon. Charles Spencer Cowper, who married the -Lady Blessington, and afterwards Jessie Mary, only surviving child -of Colonel Clinton McLean; and the Lady Frances Elizabeth. Earl -Cowper dying in 1837, Lady Cowper, in 1839, was married to Viscount -Palmerston, who, dying in 1865, left her again a widow, and his title -became extinct. At Lady Palmerston’s death, in 1869, her estates passed -to her grandson, the present Earl Cowper, who now owns Melbourne Hall -and its surrounding estates. - -The Hon. Henry John Temple, third Viscount Palmerston and Baron Temple -of Mount Temple, was the son of Henry, second Viscount Palmerston, -by his second wife, Mary, daughter of Benjamin Mee, of Bath. He was -born in 1784, and was educated at Harrow and at St. John’s College, -Cambridge, and succeeded his father in the titles and estates as third -Viscount Palmerston and Baron Temple in 1802, and entered Parliament -in 1807, from which time his name was intimately mixed up with the -political history of this country. He successively became a Knight of -the Garter and a Knight Grand Cross of the Bath, and, among other -offices, Lord Warden of the Cinque Ports, Constable of Dover Castle, -Elder Brother of Trinity House, Lord Rector of the University of -Glasgow, a Lord of the Admiralty, Secretary at War, Foreign Secretary, -and Home Secretary. In 1855 he became Prime Minister, and so continued -until 1858. In 1859 he again became Prime Minister, and died whilst -holding that office in 1865. The title then became extinct. Lord -Palmerston by his will, dated November 22nd, 1864, left his real -and leasehold estates in England and Ireland to Lady Palmerston for -life, and after her decease to her second son, the Right Hon. William -Francis Cowper. The will expressed an earnest wish that Mr. Cowper, -upon coming into possession of the estates, should immediately apply -for a royal license to take and use, for himself and his descendants, -the surname of Temple, either in substitution for, or in addition to, -that of Cowper, but so that Temple should be the final name; and the -family arms of Temple to be quartered with those of Cowper. This was -accordingly done. The arms of Lord Palmerston were—quarterly, first -and fourth, _or_, an eagle displayed, _sable_; second and third, -_argent_, two bars, _sable_, each charged with three martlets, _or_. -Supporters—dexter, a lion reguardant, _pæan_; and sinister, a horse -reguardant, _argent_, maned, tailed, and hoofed, _or_. Crest—a hound -sejant, _sable_, collared, _or_. Motto—“Flecti non frangi.” - -It is a somewhat curious circumstance, as will have been gleaned, and -one worth noting, that Melbourne Hall became the seat, within twenty -years, of two Prime Ministers, and that the titles of each, Lords -Melbourne and Palmerston, have become extinct. - -The present noble owner of Melbourne Hall and its surrounding estates -is the Right Hon. Francis Thomas De Grey Cowper, seventh Earl Cowper, -Viscount Fordwich, Baron Cowper, Baron Butler, and Baron Dingwall, and -a Baronet. His lordship (who is grandson of Lady Palmerston) was born -in 1834, and is the son of George Augustus Frederick, sixth earl, by -his wife, Anne Florence, Baroness Lucas, daughter of the second Earl De -Grey, and was educated at Harrow and at Christ Church, Oxford, where he -proceeded M.A. in 1855. He succeeded to the titles and estates on the -death of his father in 1856, and from 1871 to 1874 was Captain and Gold -Shell of H.M. Corps of Gentlemen-at-Arms. In 1870 Earl Cowper married -Katrine Cecilia, daughter of Lord William Compton, heir-presumptive -to the Marquis of Northampton, by whom, however, he has no issue, the -heir-presumptive being his brother, the Hon. Henry Frederick Cowper, -M.P. - -The arms of Earl Cowper are—_argent_, three martlets, _gules_; on a -chief engrailed, of the last, three annulets, _or_. Crest—a lion’s -jamb erased, _or_, holding a cherry branch, _vert_, fructed, _gules_. -Supporters—two dun horses, close cropped (except a tuft on the -withers) and docked, a large blaze down the face, a black list down -the back, and three white feet, viz. both hind and the near fore foot. -Motto—“Tuum est.” - -[Illustration: _The Gardens and Yew Tunnel._] - -The Gardens and Grounds of Melbourne Hall are its chief attractions -They are a curious and elegant relic of the old style of horticulture, -which was brought from Holland by William III., consisting of groves, -fountains, statues, &c., and are of the most strikingly peculiar -character. In one place, on entering, the visitor finds himself in the -Lover’s Walk, a literal tunnel (the outside, of which is shown in our -view of the grounds) formed of very aged yew-trees, arched and netted -and intergrown one with another, only here and there pierced by rays -of light. In another he finds himself by the side of a basin, in the -centre of which a fountain is ever playing; while in its clear waters -magnificent carp are lazily swimming or basking in the sun. In another -place he comes upon a “cool grot”—a mineral spring, over which is -erected a charming rustic grotto of spars, shells, stalactites, and -other natural objects, and bearing on a marble tablet lines by the Hon. -George Lamb:— - - “Rest, weary stranger, in this shady cave, - And taste, if languid, of the mineral wave; - There’s virtue in the draught; for health that flies - From crowded cities and their smoky skies, - Here lends her power from every glade and hill, - Strength to the breeze, and medicine to the rill.” - -[Illustration: _The Gardens, as seen from the Hall._] - -The lawn in front of the mansion is laid out in ornamental beds, filled -with the choicest flowers, and dotted over with groups, single figures, -vases, &c., of fine sculpture, of which it may be interesting to note -that the pair of black figures only cost, about the year 1630, £30, -and the Perseus and Andromeda £45. At the opposite side of the grounds -from the house is an alcove of elaborate design in wrought-iron, -bearing the arms of Coke, which, with the central basin and fountain, -is shown in our engraving of the gardens as seen from the hall. The -Scotch firs which form the background of the gardens were planted in -the time of William III., the trunks being, in many instances, 80 feet -in height, and 13 or 14 feet in circumference. One of these Scotch -firs, which fell in the spring of 1875, was known to be one hundred and -seventy-six years old; its dimensions were extraordinary. They were -as follows:—Height, 82 feet; length of butt, 39 feet; circumference -at eight feet from the ground, 10 feet 8 inches; circumference at -thirty-nine feet from the ground, 9 feet 2 inches; total contents of -timber, 340 cubic feet. Leading in a south-easterly direction from the -parterred lawn, the gardens become entirely changed in character, and -the visitor wanders through sylvan walks, bounded on either side by -impenetrable yew hedges, which intersect each other in every direction, -at every turn coming upon a fine piece of sculpture, or rippling -stream, or bubbling fountain. - -One of the walks leads to a gentle eminence at the junction of three -splendid glades, with gigantic lime hedges, in the centre of which -is placed the enormous bronzed vase of lead—one of the finest pieces -of modelling in existence—called the “Seasons,” which, with another -exquisite, though plainer, vase placed almost in close contiguity, was -presented by Queen Anne to her Vice-Chamberlain, Thomas Coke. On the -pedestals is the monogram, “T. C.,” of the Thomas Coke to whom they -were given. On occasion of its being repaired, in 1840, the following -inscription, written by Mr. H. Fox, was placed in its interior:— - - HOC SIMULACRUM - EX DONO ANNÆ REGINÆ - THOMA COKE ARMIGERO DOMINI CUBICULARII - VICEM FUNGENTE - POSITUM - E LOCO MOTUM ET AD VETEREM - NORMAM RESTITUTUM - GULIELMUS VICECOMES MELBOURNE - PRINCEPS DOMINORUM REGII THESAURI - REPOSUIT - ANNO VICTORIÆ REG. QUARTO - ANNO CHRISTI 1840. - -The Terrace Walk, formed so as to overlook the magnificent lake, is -a pleasant and favourite promenade for visitors, and commands some -charming views of the grounds, the lake, the church, and neighbourhood. - -The Lake, or Pool, as it is commonly called, is nearly twenty-two -acres in extent, and is beautifully wooded on its banks, and, with its -island, the swans which are always sailing on its surface, and the -pleasure-boats frequently gliding about, forms a beautiful picture from -whatever point it is viewed. The gardens, it may be added, cover an -extent of nearly twenty acres of ground; and it is worth noting that -on the wall near the Conservatory and the Muniment-room is the finest -and largest _Wistaria_ in existence—its extent along the wall being no -less than two hundred and sixty-four feet. - -In the hall itself is a splendid collection of pictures, including -many very rare examples—family portraits, principally of the old -celebrities of the Coke family and others. In this house Baxter wrote -his “Saint’s Rest;” and here many distinguished men have at one time -or other resided. Of this Baxter himself thus wrote:—“The second book -which I wrote (and the first which I began) was that called ‘Saint’s -Everlasting Rest.’ While I was in health I had not the least thoughts -of writing books, or in serving God in any more public way than that -of preaching; but when I was weakened with much bleeding, and left -solitary in my chamber at Sir John Coke’s in Derbyshire, without any -acquaintance but my servant about me, and was sentenced to death by -my physicians, I began to contemplate more seriously the _Everlasting -Rest_ which I apprehended myself just on the borders of; and that my -thoughts might not be scattered too much in my meditation, I began -to write something upon that subject, intending but a sermon or -two (which is the cause that the beginning is in brevity and style -disproportionable to the rest); but being continued long in sickness, -where I had no poor or better employment, I followed it on till it was -enlarged to the bulk in which it is now published.” The hall was at one -time, about 1811, occupied by Sir Sidney Smith, the “Hero of Acre,” -and also by Sir William Rumbold: it was likewise for many years in the -occupation of Colonel Gooch, one of the heroes of Waterloo—in fact, -one of the seven brave men immortalised in history as having defended -the important and critical post of Houguemont in that great battle. It -is now occupied by William Dashwood Fane, Esq. - -Closely adjoining the hall is Melbourne Church, which is, without -doubt, one of the very finest and most perfect Norman structures -remaining to us, reminding one forcibly, in its massive piers and other -features, of Durham Cathedral. Indeed, it is far more of a cathedral -in appearance than a parish church. The western doorway is one of its -most striking external features; but internally it is full of interest -in every part. It is a cruciform structure, with massive central tower, -and two other lantern towers at its west end. The nave is divided -from the side-aisles by a series of massive round piers supporting -semicircular arches, above which is a fine open triforium running -entirely round the nave. Remains of a circular apse are to be traced at -the east end. Its monuments, too, are worthy of careful examination; -they are mainly to the family of Hardinge, of King’s Newton, the head -of which family is the present Lord Hardinge. - -[Illustration: _West Doorway, Melbourne Church._] - -One mile from Melbourne is the pleasant village of King’s Newton, -with its Holy Well and its Hall, now in ruins, but long the -paternal residence of the Hardinge family, and from which its then -representative, Viscount Hardinge, of King’s Newton—the heroic -Governor-General of India—took his title. This distinguished family -had been settled at this place for several centuries, the hall being -built by them _circa_ 1400. Sir Robert Hardinge, who was Master of the -Court of Chancery and Attorney-General to Charles II., resided here, -and was visited by that monarch, who remained his guest for some days. -On the glass of the window of his room King Charles scratched the -anagram, _Cras ero lux_, being a clever transposition of the words, -_Carolus rex_, and meaning “To-morrow I shall shine.” In the garden is -a famous old mulberry-tree, under which it is said the monarch used -to sit: it is still luxuriant in foliage and in fruit. The hall was -destroyed by fire only a few years ago, and its picturesque ruins and -grounds are now open to the public, who during the summer months “there -do congregate” for pic-nic parties and rural enjoyments. Our engraving -shows the hall as it appeared before the fire. - -[Illustration: _King’s Newton Hall as it was._] - -The village of King’s Newton, one of the most delightful of villages, -has a literary celebrity attaching to it. Here Thomas Hall, who wrote -“Wisdom’s Conquest” in 1640, resided; and here, too, Speechly, the -Rural Economist; Mundy, who wrote “The Fall of Needwood” and “Needwood -Forest;” Mrs. Green, the authoress of “John Gray of Willoughby;” -the Ortons, one of whom is known by his “Excelsior” and his “Three -Palaces,” and the other by his varied writings, were residents, as -was also the author of “Thurstan Meverell;” and here, in his native -place, resided till his death, in February, 1876, the able historian of -Melbourne, Mr. John Joseph Briggs, who also ranked high as a writer -on natural history. The locality has other attractions “too numerous -to mention.” Independently of its great natural beauties, its most -attractive associations are undoubtedly with a grand and honourable -past. Of King’s Newton Mr. Briggs thus wrote:— - - “Sweet Newton, first to thee my song I raise. - Thy charms, loved hamlet, need no poet’s praise; - O’er thy green meads first trips the laughing Spring, - And shakes primroses from each flower-wreathed wing: - There the first swallow skims the daisied vale, - And the loved cuckoo breathes her mellow tale, - And merry chiff-chaff from the budding tree - Gives out his joyous notes so wild and free. - And when old Autumn sheds o’er field and bower - The radiant hues of many a gorgeous flower, - And bids the sun lead down his stately dance, - Thy fields are last to catch his parting glance. - Within thy bounds I drew mine earliest breath, - And there, grant Heaven, these eyes may close in death!” - -[Illustration: _Holy Well, King’s Newton._] - -Besides its ruined hall, there is at King’s Newton a Holy Well, the -structure over which was erected by Robert Hardinge in 1660, and -restored a few years back by one of his descendants. It bears on -its front the inscription—“FONS SACER HIC STRVITVR ROBERTO NOMINIS -HARDINGE, 1660.” - -[Illustration: _The Trent and Weston Cliff._] - -In the neighbourhood of Melbourne, too, are many pleasant places and -delightful “bits” of scenery. Weston Cliff, - - “Just rising from fair fields clad now in green, - Its beauteous church-spire tap’ring o’er the wood,” - -on the banks of “silver Trent,” is one of the most favourite and famous -fishing resorts of the district, and its manifold attractions have -often been the theme of the local poet’s song:— - - “Sweet Weston Cliff! how beautiful art thou! - How dark the firs that crown thy rugged brow! - Adown thy sides the straggling white sloe falls, - And blossom’d thorns outspread their snowy palls, - And the glad furze hath beauteously unrolled - For the Spring’s feet her gorgeous cloth of gold.” - -Donington Cliff, too, on the river margin of the broad lands of -Donington, the seat of the late Marquis of Hastings and of Mr. -Hastings, father of the present Earl of Loudoun, is a charming spot, -especially where, as shown in our engraving, - - “Proud trees bend, and on Trent’s waves descry - Their own bright image as it passes by,” - -just where the boat-house and landing-place are situated. But we have -no space wherein to describe the beauties of the neighbourhood, and -must leave Melbourne to pass on to our next chapter. - -[Illustration: _The Trent and Donington Cliff._] - - - - -SOMERLEYTON. - - -SOMERLEYTON, the Sumerledetun of Domesday survey, and occasionally in -later times written Somerley, lies about six miles from Lowestoft, in -the county of Suffolk, its nearest point on the coast being some four -miles distant. At the time of the Conquest, Wihtred, a free man and a -priest, held forty acres for a manor, and Ulf, a free man under the -protection of Earl Gurth, held two carucates of land for a manor. The -whole place was seized by the Conqueror, and given to Roger Bigod as -steward. It was soon after held as one manor by Sir Peter Fitz-Osbert, -whose son, Sir Roger Fitz-Osbert, was lord of the place, _temp._ Henry -III., and was, 22nd Edward I. summoned to Parliament as Baron Osborne: -he died in 1305-6. His sister, Isabel Fitz-Osbert, wife of Sir Walter -Jernegan, or Jerningham, of Horham Jernegan, in Suffolk, and widow of -Sir Henry de Walpole, became heiress to the Somerleyton estates on the -death of her brother, and thus they passed into the Jernegan family. - -The Jernegans, even at that time, boasted an ancient pedigree. The -earliest of whom there is any record was living in 1182, and left -by his wife Sibilla a son, Hubert, who, in 1203, married Margery, -daughter and heiress of De Harling, of East Harling, and by her had -issue, besides others, a son, Sir Hugh Jernegan, who married Ellen, -daughter and heiress of Sir Thomas Englethorpe. Their son it was -who married Isabel Fitz-Osbert, and thus acquired the manor of -Somerleyton in her right. Their son, Sir Peter Jernegan, Knt., married -three wives: first, Alice, daughter of Sir Hugh Germayne; secondly, -Matilda, daughter of Sir Roger Herling; and thirdly, Ellen, daughter -of Sir Roger de Huntingfield. By his first wife he had issue Sir John -Jernegan, Knt., of Somerleyton, whose wife was Agatha, daughter of Sir -Robert Shelton, of Shelton, Knt. Their son, Sir John Jernegan, who -died in 1375, married Joan, daughter and co-heiress of Sir William de -Kelveden and widow of Sir John Lowdham, by whom he had issue his son -and successor, Sir John Jernegan, who, by his wife Margaret, daughter -of Sir Thomas Vise de Lou, Knt., of Shotley, had, besides other issue, -a son, Sir Thomas Jernegan, Knt., who succeeded him, and who married -Joan Appleyard, of Dunston, by whom he left a son, John Jernegan, -who succeeded him. This gentleman married twice: by his first wife, -Jane, daughter of Sir John Darell, of Calehill, he had a son and -heir, John Jernegan, who married Isabel, daughter and heiress of Sir -Gervase Clifton, Knt. The issue of this marriage was a son, Sir Edward -Jernegan, who was knighted, and succeeded his father in the estates. - -This Sir Edward Jernegan was married twice: first, to Margaret, -daughter of Sir Edmund Bedingfield, Knt.; and, secondly, to Mary, -daughter and co-heiress of Richard Scroope, son of Lord Scroope. By -this second marriage he had, among other issue, a son, Sir Henry -Jerningham, of Wingfield and Huntingfield Hall, in Suffolk, and of -Coney, in Norfolk, Vice-Chamberlain and Master of the Horse to Queen -Mary, from whom are descended the present Jerninghams of Staffordshire -and other counties. By his first wife Sir Edward had issue six -sons—Sir John, Sir Robert, Thomas, Olyf, Nicholas, and Edward—and two -daughters: Ann, who became the wife of five husbands, and Margaret, who -was twice married. He died in 1515, and was succeeded by his eldest -son, Sir John Jernegan, of Somerleyton, who married Bridget, daughter -of Sir Robert Drury, Knt., of Halsted, by whom, with other issue, he -had a son, George Jernegan, who succeeded him, and who, having espoused -Elye, daughter of Sir John Spelman, of Narborough, Knt., was succeeded -by his son, John Jernegan. This gentleman married Catherine, daughter -of George Brooke, Lord Cobham, and had by her issue four daughters, -his co-heiresses—viz. Elizabeth; Katherine, married to Wymond Carew; -Frances, married, first, to Thomas Bedingfield, and, secondly, to her -relative Henry Jerningham, of Coney Park; and Margaret, married to —— -Ford, of Butley. Frances, the third daughter, inherited Somerleyton, -and conveyed it to her second husband, Henry Jerningham, who sold it to -John Wentworth, Esq. - -[Illustration: _The South Lodge._] - -It will thus have been seen that the Jernegans (whose arms -were—_argent_, three buckles, _gules_) held Somerleyton for no fewer -than thirteen generations. In addition to this, they became possessed -of the greater part of the King’s manor of the Island of Lothingland—a -district occupying the north-east corner of the county of Suffolk, and -containing the sixteen parishes of Somerleyton, Lowestoft, Corton, -Gunton, Oulton, Ashby, Lound, Fritton, Flixton, Hopton, Blundeston, -Gorleston, Belton, Burgh, Bradwell, and Herringfleet. In 1619 Henry -Jerningham died at Cossey, nine years after having sold Somerleyton to -John Wentworth, whose son was Sir John Wentworth, one of the chiefs -of the Cavalier party of the district during the civil wars; and -Cromwell and his troopers paid several visits to the old hall, making -free with its forage, and “carrying away its musquets.” The village of -Somerleyton appears, like its master, to have been staunchly loyal, -and was harassed in consequence by the quartering of soldiers and the -exaction of forced loans by the partisans of the Commonwealth. Ireton, -in 1648, summoned the bailiffs of Yarmouth to meet him in conference -at Somerleyton Hall, and there delivered to them the Lord General’s -peremptory command, either to “ingarrison their town, or to demolish -their walls and fortifications.” A rousing bonfire and bountiful -distribution of bread and beer celebrated the restoration of King -Charles II. - -Sir John Wentworth records that “on the 14th day of March, 1642, -Collonell Cromwell’s troope, and Captain Fountayne with his troope, -and divers others, to the number of 140, came to Somerley Hall;” the -day after they “tooke away muskets, bandeliers, rests, head-pieces, -and one fowling-piece,” and other things of which no note was made. -The Protector was, therefore, certainly an inmate of Somerleyton, and -probably more than once. Matters changed, however: in 1660 an order -was issued to the constables of Somerleyton and Ashby “to re-provide -prayer books for their churches;” also to warn “all alehouse-keepers -and butchers to enter recognisance for the observation of Lent and -fish dayes.” The stout old knight did not live to see the King “enjoy -his own again;” but his loyal widow did, and subscribed ten shillings -“towards the building of a bone fire” upon St. George’s Day, 1661. - -Sir John Wentworth married Anne Soame, but died without issue in 1651. -From the Wentworths, Somerleyton passed to John Garneys, the son of -Elizabeth Wentworth, sister of Sir Thomas Wentworth, who had become -the wife of Charles Garneys, a member of the fine old Suffolk family -who bore the alliterative motto of “God’s Grace Guides Garneys.” The -Garneys (whose arms were—_argent_, a chevron engrailed, _azure_, -between three escallop shells, _sable_) were originally seated at -Boyland Hall, Morningthorpe, Norfolk, and at Heveringham and Kenton, -in Suffolk. In 1672 the then representative of the family, Thomas -Garneys, sold the estate to Admiral Sir Thomas Allin, Bart., a Suffolk -worthy whose name figures prominently in history. Thomas Garneys then -removed from Somerleyton to Boyland Hall, where he had a son, Wentworth -Garneys, who married Mary, daughter of Sir Thomas Abdy. Sir Thomas -Allin was born in 1613, and was captain of one of the ships in the -service of the Commonwealth which went over to the Prince of Wales. -In 1663 he was constituted commander-in-chief in the Downs, and later -on of the Mediterranean. In 1665 he struck the first blow of war with -the Dutch by attacking their Smyrna fleet of forty ships with eight -sail of the line, when, after making prizes of four ships, he drove -the remaining thirty-six into Cadiz harbour. In the same year, in the -great sea-fight off Lowestoft, when the English fleet, under the Duke -of York, Prince Rupert, and others, engaged the Dutch fleet under Van -Tromp, Admiral Allin held a command. - -[Illustration: _The Front._] - -In the following year Allin was at the head of the White Squadron -when the fleet fell upon the Dutch van, routing it and killing the -three Dutch admirals who commanded that division. In the same year -Allin attacked the French fleet, boarding and capturing the _Ruby_ of -fifty-four guns. Three years later “he sailed with a strong squadron -to chastise the Algerines,” which he accomplished, and returned home -worn out in the heavy services of his country. In consideration of -these many services Admiral Allin was created a baronet in 1673, and -retired to Somerleyton, which, as has been stated, he had recently -purchased. A portrait of the brave old admiral, who was called “the -Scourge of Yarmouth,” is now at Somerleyton. That town took the side -of the Parliament in the civil war, while Lowestoft was profoundly -loyal. Sir Thomas married, first, Alice, daughter of Captain Whiting, -of Lowestoft, by whom he had issue one son—Thomas Allin, his -successor—and two daughters: Anne, who died unmarried, and Alice, -married to Edmund Anguish, Esq., of Moulton, in the county of Norfolk, -whose son inherited the estates and title; and, secondly, Elizabeth, -daughter of Thomas Anguish, Esq., and sister of his son-in-law, by whom -he had no issue. Sir Thomas died in 1686 or 1688, and was buried at -Somerleyton. He was succeeded by his son, Sir Thomas Allin, who married -Mary, daughter of John Caldwall, of London; but, dying without issue -in 1696, the baronetcy became extinct, and the estates devolved upon -his nephew, Richard Anguish, Esq., son of Alice Allin and her husband, -Edmund Anguish, Esq. The arms of Allin were—_gules_, three swords -barwise, points to the sinister side, _argent_, hilts and pomels, -_or_, between four mullets of the third. Crest—a sword in pale, point -upwards. - -This Alice Allin had issue by her husband, Edmund Anguish, three -sons—Richard, Edmund, and Allin—the eldest of whom, Richard, -inherited Somerleyton, and having, in accordance with the will of his -uncle, assumed the arms and surname of Allin, was created a baronet in -1699: the descendants of Edmund, the second son, afterwards inherited -the estates. Sir Richard Allin (formerly Anguish) married Frances, -only daughter of Sir Henry Ashurst, Bart., of Waterstock, by whom he -had issue four sons—Thomas Allin, Henry Allin, Richard Allin, and -the Rev. Ashurst Allin—and one daughter, Diana, married to Thomas -Henry Ashurst, Esq., of Waterstock. Sir Richard died in 1725, and was -succeeded in his title and estates by his eldest son, Sir Thomas Allin, -Bart., who, dying unmarried in 1764, was succeeded by his brother, -the Rev. Sir Ashurst Allin, Bart., Rector of Blundeston-cum-Flixton, -who married Thomasin Norris, and, dying in 1770, was succeeded by his -only son, Sir Thomas Allin, Bart. This gentleman died unmarried in -1794, when the baronetcy again became extinct, the Somerleyton estates -passing to his distant kinsman, Thomas Anguish, Esq., as will now be -shown. - -Edmund Anguish, second son of Alice Allin, and her husband, Edmund -Anguish, married Mary Betts, by whom he had issue two sons—the -Rev. Thomas and Edmund—and two daughters, Mary and Dorothy. The -Rev. Thomas Anguish, who was of Halesworth, married Mary Eling, -of Beccles, and, dying in 1763, was succeeded by his son, Thomas -Anguish, Accountant-General to the Court of Chancery; who, marrying -Sarah Henley, of Docking, had issue by her three sons—Thomas, the -Rev. George, and Charles—and three daughters, Catherine, Anne, and -Charlotte. The eldest of the sons, Thomas Anguish, it was who inherited -the estates of Somerleyton on the death of his kinsman, Sir Thomas -Allin, Bart., when the title became extinct. This Thomas Anguish died -unmarried in 1810, and was succeeded by his brother, the Rev. George -Anguish, from whom, in 1843 (when the line became extinct), the estates -passed to the son of his sister, Catherine Anguish, who, in 1788, had -married Francis Godolphin-Osborne, fifth Duke of Leeds, she being his -second wife. By this union she had issue Lord Sidney Godolphin-Osborne -and Lady Anne Sarah Godolphin, married to John Whyte-Melville, Esq. -Their son, Captain Whyte-Melville, is the distinguished author of many -works of fiction. The arms of Anguish were—_gules_, a cinquefoil, -pierced, _or_; the crest—a snake coiled, encircled with grass; and the -motto—“Latet anguis in herbâ.” - -[Illustration: _The West Front._] - -The Somerleyton estate, having come by descent to Lord Sidney -Godolphin-Osborne, was sold by him, in 1844, to Samuel Morton Peto, -Esq., the extensive “contractor,” who had become the purchaser of the -Norwich and Lowestoft ship canal, and to whose enterprise Lowestoft -owes its railway, its pier, its harbour, &c. By Samuel Morton Peto the -old mansion was entirely rearranged, extended, and altered; and by him -also was the church, in a measure, rebuilt, and the village entirely -remodelled, at a large outlay. - -We should neglect an essential part of our duty if we omitted to do -tender homage to that most enterprising and liberal gentleman. He -“created” Somerleyton, so to speak, made it the grand and beautiful -edifice it now is, formed its grounds, constructed and ornamented its -delicious winter garden, hung the rooms with pictures, and filled -the library with useful and pleasant books. Unhappily, circumstances -prevented his enjoying them. Fortune, ever capricious, consigned it -to other hands; the rich contractor had to sustain a reverse, and -the “earthly paradise” passed from his hands into those of another. -Happily, however, that other was the well-known late Sir Francis -Crossley, who became the owner of the property, by purchase, in 1862. - -Sir Francis Crossley had no pedigree to trace; his father was a -self-made man, and he a self-made millionaire. His father was a -journeyman carpet-weaver; his mother, herself a farmer’s daughter, was -a farm servant. The mother lived to a ripe old age; the father to start -the now famous firm of Crossley and Sons, and see it in a fair way to -success. The humble origin of Sir Francis Crossley was a matter which -he loved unostentatiously to trace. “Many years after the marriage,” -he related on one occasion, “my father and mother took Dean Clough -Mills. As my mother went with her usual energy to that place, down the -yard at four o’clock in the morning, she made a vow—‘If the Lord does -bless us at this place, the poor shall taste of it.’ It is to this -vow, given with so much faithfulness, and kept with so much fidelity, -that I attribute the great success my father had in business.” Sir -Francis Crossley’s benefactions were large. To the town of Halifax, -in 1857, he gave the People’s Park, at a cost of about £40,000. About -1861 there was commenced the erection of the Crossley Orphan Home -and School on Skircoat Moor, which was built and endowed by Messrs. -John, Francis, and Joseph Crossley, at a cost of £65,000. The building -has accommodation for four hundred children. It was provided by the -Messrs. Crossley with an endowment of £3,000 a year, but this sum has -been increased from other sources. In 1871 he gave £10,000 to the -Corporation of Halifax as a loan fund for the benefit of deserving -inhabitants. Out of this fund men may borrow to the extent of £300, and -women to the extent of £100, at 2½ per cent., on certain conditions, -one being that £10 of the principal shall be paid back annually. Then -he gave £10,000 to the Congregational Pastors’ Retiring Fund; £10,000 -to a fund for the relief of widows of Congregational pastors; and -£20,000 to the London Missionary Society—making a total within a short -time of £60,000. He was a member of the Independent body, but he was a -liberal contributor to every good cause. Sir Francis was born in 1817, -and from 1852 to 1859 sat as M.P. for Halifax; from 1859 to 1865 for -the West Riding of Yorkshire; from 1865 to 1868 for the North-west -Riding; and from the latter year until 1872 for the north division of -the West Riding of the same county; having thus sat in Parliament for -an unbroken period of twenty years. He married, in 1845, Martha Eliza, -daughter of the late Henry Brinton, Esq., of Kidderminster, by whom -he left issue an only surviving child, the present Sir Savile Brinton -Crossley. Sir Francis was created a baronet in 1863. - -[Illustration: _North-east View._] - -The present baronet, and owner of the immense estates and wealth of Sir -Francis, is his son, Sir Savile Brinton Crossley, who was born in 1857, -and succeeded to the title in 1872. - -The arms of Crossley are—_gules_, a chevron indented, _ermine_, -between two cross-crosslets in chief, and a saltire couped in base, -_or_. Crest—a demi-hind erased, _proper_, charged with two bars, _or_, -and holding between the feet a cross-crosslet, _or_. Motto—“Omne bonum -ab alto.” The family seats are Somerleyton, near Lowestoft, in Suffolk, -and Belle Vue, Halifax, Yorkshire. - -The old hall of Somerleyton was one of the finest of the old brick -mansions remaining, and possessed many interesting features. Fuller, -the quaint old writer whose words are so often quoted, ranked it among -the best of the many fine houses of the county of Suffolk, and says -that it well deserved the name of Somerleyton, for here summer is to be -seen in the depth of winter—the grounds being planted with evergreens, -and the pleasant walks beset on both sides with fir-trees, green all -the year round, besides other curiosities. - -The Park, about two hundred acres in extent, is rich in beauty, and -includes a deer park. Two miles from the house, in the direction of -Yarmouth, there is a drive through ornamental grounds, and a “decoy” -on a splendid sheet of water three miles long, and a quarter of a mile -in breadth, called Fritton Lake. It abounds with a variety of fish, -and is the resort of widgeons, ducks, teal, grebes, and other wild -fowl during the season, which begins in October and ends in April. -Vast quantities are taken yearly. The banks of this fine sheet of -water are fringed with wood, and two or three gentlemen’s houses and -pleasure-grounds add interest to the scenery. The lake separates the -parishes of Fritton, Herringfleet, Belton, Lound, and Ashby; and in the -Herringfleet woods, belonging to Major Leathes, there is a heronry. The -owner of Somerleyton, to whom belongs a large portion of the lake, has -a beautiful drive on one side of it, extending for nearly two miles, -winding through plantations comprising choice specimens of pines, -&c., with occasional peeps of the lake on one side, and heath and -woods on the other. The lake—such is its natural and yet cultivated -beauty—might be a bit of the lovely shire of Devon planted among the -bare plains of Suffolk. It is zig-zag in form; tiny peninsulas jut -into it, clothed with graceful firs and thick underwood, among which -tall ferns luxuriate; the steeps have gradual ascents from the banks; -closely planted trees of many varieties completely cover them; and it -is only now and then that glimpses are caught of the water. - -[Illustration: _In the Winter Garden. Spanish Dancers, Hautmann._] - -The lake is close and compact, and on no side does there seem any -opening, only footpaths lead to it from the adjacent roads. Its -solitary character—out of the way of passing intruders—and its -thickness of composition, render it a favourite shelter of wild fowl. -They do not, however, enjoy solitude in security. Man is always astir -in search of prey: three “decoys” are active at all seasons to entrap -the unsuspicious and unwary. One of them was in operation during our -visit. Domestic ducks were sailing in and out of a narrow passage, -quacking and playing and feeding, to show their wild cousins outside -that no danger was near. Two or three bolder than the rest summoned -courage to enter, and very soon were in the net-trap that furnished the -bag of the gamekeeper. - -This charming scene of mingled wood and water adds materially to the -attractions of the locality; and here Art has been brought to the aid -of Nature. - -[Illustration: _In the Winter Garden. Statue, Hautmann._] - -Passing in at the North Lodge, visitors are generally conducted -through the kitchen and fruit gardens, the vineries, hothouses, and -conservatories, to a sloping lawn facing the Winter Garden and north -front of the house, from which point a charming scene presents itself. -“Before us,” says a recent writer, “in a setting of old forest trees, -cedars, aged thorns, clumps of azaleas, and rhododendrons, rises, as -if evoked by a magician’s wand, a range of fantastic palaces of glass, -their many sheeny domes and pinnacles sparkling like diamond facets in -the noonday sun, and their contours and traceried outlines of graceful -arabesques backed and thrown into relief by the deep red brick-work of -the towers, gables, and campaniles of the hall.” - -[Illustration: _In the Winter Garden. Statue of Hymen, Byrtrom._] - -On the left is an aviary of gold and silver pheasants, screening a part -of the offices. The area covered by the Winter Garden is one hundred -feet square. Within the decorations are Renaissance, of a light and -elegant character. Four main alleys converge under the great mosque -dome, beneath which is a fountain supported on a rockery of ferns by -four dolphins, and surmounted by a marble statue of the “Nymph of the -Lily.” - -[Illustration: _In the Winter Garden. Nymph at her Toilet, Haudmauer._] - -From the central alley numerous aisles diverge to an outer one, -circumscribing the building. The roof is supported by light iron -columns covered with fuchsias and beautiful creepers, with wire baskets -of flowers suspended overhead. Parterres of rare exotics, and large -majolica vases filled with flowers, occupy the grand space. At the -corners and in other parts are life-sized statues: mirrors and other -appliances add to the beauty of the whole. The south side opens to the -Billiard, Morning, and Withdrawing Rooms. Aviaries of singing-birds are -placed at intervals throughout the garden, and in the corridor leading -to the Palm-house are a fern-grotto and fountain. The whole, it should -be specially noted, may be lit with gas. - -From the Winter Garden the visitor is shown the Italian Garden, -opposite the west front. This front of the house opens upon a noble -terrace, three hundred feet in length, enriched with statuary, vases, -&c., from which three flights of steps lead down to the Dutch Garden, -laid out in geometrical form by Nesfield, in the same general manner -as that by him at Castle Howard, which we have heretofore described. -In the centre of this parterre is a noble sundial, and from this -point, looking to the south, a view is obtained of the grand avenue -of fine old lime-trees, four hundred and fifty yards in length, at -the termination of which the Church of Somerleyton is seen. Near to -this avenue, in which are some fine sculptured figures and groups and -other objects, is a double avenue of elm-trees. In this garden will -be especially noticed two admirably sculptured figures of “Night” and -“Morning,” by the late John Thomas, an artist of eminence and great -ability, whose advice is understood to have greatly guided Sir Morton -Peto in the adornment of the beautiful house; he may, indeed, be -described as “the architect.” There is also (but on the other side of -the Winter Garden) a drinking-fountain, created by a statue, the work -of Joseph Durham, A.R.A., of a milkmaid, her pail at her feet, in an -attitude that implies outlook for the kine. - -The West Front, one hundred and fifty feet in length, is composed of a -central tower and two wings, with large bay windows. The entrance is by -a porch in the central tower. - -The Corridor, lined with wainscot, leads to a finely panelled Hall, -from which a staircase ascends to the upper suites of apartments. The -Hall is hung with arms and curious and valuable armour, one suit of -which, of remarkably fine design and the most exquisite workmanship, -is inlaid with gold, and bears a German motto, and the date 1652. Over -the massive chimney-piece the wall is decorated by Maclise’s large -oil-painting of “Chivalry.” It contains also other valuable works -of Art; among them a fine picture of deer by Sir Edwin Landseer, in -his best manner and his best time. In the stained-glass windows are -the arms of some of the successive owners of Somerleyton—Allin, -Anguish, Godolphin-Osborne, Peto, Crossley, &c. On the landing is a -portrait-picture of George and Robert Stephenson, and in the passage -from the Staircase to the Boudoir are “Edward the Confessor leaving his -Crown to Harold,” and “Harold’s Oath to William, Duke of Normandy,” -pictures of great merit by John Cross. There is also in the Hall a -grand colossal statue of Æneas. In the outer Hall—placed on a very -graceful pedestal—is a marble statue of a boy who has been gathering -shells by the seashore; it is a portrait-statue of the present baronet, -and is one of the charming works of Joseph Durham, A.R.A. - -The Dining-hall, which is two stories in height, has a rich carved -polychrome ceiling in compartments, and cornices of oak, with gilt -reliefs, and clusters of fruit and wreaths of flowers. It has a huge -pyramidal chimney-piece, supported by two full-length caryatides, -“Summer” and “Winter,” by John Thomas. The ceiling is carried on -brackets supported by heads of the roebuck, wild boar, &c. In the -stained-glass windows are medallion-portraits of Newton, Watt, Chaucer, -Shakspere, Wren, and Reynolds, surmounted by allegorical figures of the -liberal sciences. On either side the fire-place are _chefs-d’œuvre_ -of Stanfield fitted into panels, and above these are frescoes by -Maclise and Horsley. The furniture is massive and appropriate, and a -fine minstrel’s gallery adds much to the beauty of the room. In this -gallery is a fine mechanical orchestral organ. The two paintings by -Stanfield are, we believe, the largest in size of his productions, -and undoubtedly his best works. They are so well known as to need no -description here: one is the Storming of St. Sebastian, the other -the dismantled _Victory_ towed into Gibraltar after the battle of -Trafalgar. These are monuments to the memory of one of the greatest -painters of any age. In this most beautiful room also hang a “St. -Simeon,” by Guido, and a large and very fine example of G. Lance: it is -called “The Seneschal,” and is certainly the best work of this artist. - -The Breakfast-room, a charming apartment filled with choice objects, -commands a view down one of the avenues; in it are the “Italian -Peasants,” by Armitage, landscapes by Constable, a fruit-piece by Hunt, -&c. - -The Library has a beautiful ceiling, and is fitted with carved -book-cases, containing editions of all modern authors. In the extensive -collection few works of merit and interest are omitted. Over the -chimney-piece, with its motto, “Learn to live, live to learn,” is -Rembrandt’s grand picture of “Ferdinand and Isabella;” and there are -also portraits of Milton and Shakspere, the latter a “life” portrait -from Stowe. - -The old Drawing-room is wainscoted throughout, and the cornices, -door-heads, and mirror-frame are exquisitely and elaborately carved -with game, and groups and festoons of fruit and flowers, attributed -to Gibbons. In the upper lights of tho windows, of modern insertion, -landscapes are introduced. - -The Drawing-room, Billiard-room, and other apartments are all of equal -elegance, and all filled with costly furniture and choice works of Art, -among which are paintings by Beverley, Lance, Solomon, Mole, and others. - -In the upper rooms of the house—not, of course, shown to visitors—is -preserved the ancient tapestry which adorned the walls of the old -mansion; and here, too, are many gems of Art, including examples of -Wright of Derby, Wilson, Bright, and others; with Manuel’s “Voyage -Subjects,” twenty-two in number. The subjects of the tapestry are -as follows:—In the Tapestry-room, the “Story of Lucretia;” in the -Dressing-room, portions of a very large tapestry, “The Passage of the -Red Sea,” “Moses striking the Rock,” &c. The “Story of Lucretia” is in -five panels, very beautifully wrought, obviously from the designs of an -accomplished artist. There are also pictures of great worth in some of -these rooms; notably a portrait by Holbein of his mother, a series of -charming drawings by Henry Bright, and several fine proof engravings -of great pictures. Many of the pieces of furniture were purchased at -Stowe, and are of great rarity and worth—brilliant examples of Art of -a past but honoured age. - -The Business-room is a finely groined apartment, hung with rich old -tapestry, and contains, among other works of Art, three pictures by -Herring, one attributed to Rubens, and some good examples of the old -Dutch masters. - -The Stables (flanked by a clock-tower of much elegance) lie to the -right of the main entrance; they are models of architectural beauty, -and are, of course, fitted up with all the modern appliances of comfort -and convenience. - -In the Church of Somerleyton are preserved the old rood-screen, -containing sixteen painted panels of saints, and some of the monuments -from the older edifice. Among these are memorials to Admiral Sir -Thomas Allin, to Sir John Wentworth and his lady, and to Sir Thomas -Jernegan—an altar-tomb, on which, according to Weever and Camden, -there was formerly the inscription— - - “Jesu Christ, both God and Man, - Save thy servant Jernegan.” - -On the front of the tomb are three, and at each end one, lozenge-formed -panels, in each of which is a quatrefoil with trefoiled cusps. In the -centre of each is a shield of arms. On the top of the tomb are places -where brasses have at one time been fixed. Among the arms are Appleyard -impaled with Jernegan. This tomb has been much impaired by time. It is -now, however, carefully preserved. - -Another slab bears the inscription, “Margaret Jernegan, the wyef of -Edward Jernegan, Esquyer, daughter of Sir Edmund Bedingfelde, Knt., -which Margaret dyed the xxiiij of Marche, anno MDIII.” - -The monument to Sir John Wentworth and his lady bears figures of the -knight in armour, with the peaked beard of the times, and the lady -habited in a plain dress; an escutcheon has the arms of Wentworth, -_azure_, a saltire, _ermine_, between four eagles displayed, _or_; -impaling Soame, _gules_, a chevron between three mullets, _or_, -quartered with, second, _azure_, two bars gemelles and a canton, _or_, -charged with a tun, and, third, _gules_, six annulets, _or_. - -The memorial to Sir Thomas Allin is a tablet bearing the following -inscription:—“Near this place lies interred Sir Thomas Allin, Bart., -whose unshaken fidelity to his sovereign, Charles ye 2nd, was rewarded -with many marks of his royal favour, having had the honour of serving -him as Admiral in his fleets, in the British and Mediterranean Seas; -Controller of the Navy, Captain of Sandgate Castle, and Master of the -Trinity House. He died in 1686 in ye 73 year of his age.” - -The Church is seen from many parts of the grounds of Somerleyton -Hall—always a pleasant object in the landscape—through a grand avenue -of elms: a wood-walk footpath leads to it from the house. A fine piece -of the park forms a portion of the glebe. The Church is dedicated to -St. Mary. A singular and interesting octangular font (in some parts -recut), with an inscription, now illegible, is one of its few remains -of antiquity. - -There is also a small modern Chapel at a little distance from the -house, where service is held on Sundays. It was originally erected -as a Baptist chapel by Sir Morton Peto. Close to it is a Maze of -dwarf yews, kept with exceeding nicety: in the centre is a graceful -temple, from the seats of which views are obtained of the gardens and -conservatories. - -The Conservatories are of great extent, divided into “houses” for -all the rarer plants, with vineries, pine-pits, and all the other -accessories of abundance at every season of the year. - -[Illustration: _Somerleyton Church._] - -The principal entrance to the mansion is through iron gates, the stone -piers, supporting deer _couchant_, sculptured by John Thomas. This view -we have engraved on page 207: it is at once graceful and commanding. - -Somerleyton is a magnificent house, but it was erected with a view to -comfort as well as elegance; all the rooms, both above and below, are -so constructed as to suggest the idea of home; the “appliances and -means” of wealth have been judiciously exerted to promote the rational -enjoyment of life; ease has not been sacrificed to state; and grandeur -has been less studied than content. The house is splendid, and yet -homely; there is none of the burden of magnificence either in the -mansion or the grounds, while ostentation seems as far removed from -the lofty and munificently furnished apartments as from those which -ornament a simple cottage dwelling. - -Its perfect architectural details, its noble conservatories, its -garden, its avenues—one of elm, another of lime trees, stretching from -the house across the park—its numerous vases and statues, happily -placed—and especially its Winter Garden—all perfect when viewed -separately, and all joined in admirable harmony—render Somerleyton -remarkable among the most beautiful modern mansions of the kingdom, -and do honour to the sculptor-architect under whose superintendence it -was planned and executed. Somerleyton, therefore, may be described as -one of the gems of the county of Suffolk—a county rich in baronial -mansions, abundant of historic events, and full of traditions of the -earliest, as well as of mediæval, ages in England. - -It would be a long list that which gave even the names of the baronial -halls in this grand historic county, and it would far exceed our space -to give details of its ancient monuments—Roman, Saxon, Danish, and -Norman—to say nothing of those that have descended to us from the -still earlier Britons, many relics of whom are yet to be found in the -neighbourhood. Suffolk is, indeed, if less graced by natural beauties -than some other of our English shires, rich among the richest of them -in antiquities and in traditions, while it has a high and prominent -place in British history. - -The scenery that neighbours Somerleyton is purely English; the lanes -are pleasant and picturesque in spring and summer; the land is -productive; the broad river Waveney fertilises miles upon miles of -green or arable banks between which it runs; the trees have prodigious -growth; and, above all, the sea is near at hand; the German Ocean rolls -its waves into the harbours of these eastern shores, bearing the wealth -that thousands of hardy fishermen gather in during every month of the -year. - -From any of the heights, which, though not numerous, occur -occasionally, and, in a degree, from any of the roads that skirt the -shore, may be seen a “multitudinous shipping,” so to say, from the -huge three-master and the grand steamship to the comparatively small -fishing-smacks that dot the sea-scape, and the heavily weighted coal -vessels that are bearing sources of wealth to all parts of the world. -It is to the fishing-smacks the locality is mainly indebted for its -prosperity; but Lowestoft now holds rank among the fashionable and most -frequented sea watering-places of the kingdom. - - - - -WILTON HOUSE. - -WE do not refer to the earlier families who held the title of Earls, -&c., of Pembroke—those of Montgomery, of Clare, of Marshall, of De -Valence, and of Hastings—as they, although the predecessors of the -Herberts in the title, were not so in regard to the estates. It has -been well said by Sir Bernard Burke that “the name of Pembroke, like -the scutcheons and monuments in some time-honoured cathedral, cannot -fail to awaken a thousand glorious recollections in the bosoms of all -who are but tolerably read in English chronicles. Sound it, and no -trumpet of ancient or modern chivalry would peal a higher war-note. It -is almost superfluous to repeat that this is the family of which it has -been so finely said, that ‘all the men were brave, and all the women -chaste;’ and what nobler record was ever engraved upon the tomb of -departed greatness?” - -We commence our notes with William ap Thomas, whose ancestors traced -back to Henry Fitz-Herbert, chamberlain to King Henry I. This Sir -William ap Thomas (who was the son of Thomas ap Gwillim ap Jenkin, by -his wife Maud, daughter and heiress of Sir John Morley, Knight, Lord -of Raglan Castle) married Gladys, daughter of Sir Richard Gam, and -widow of Sir Roger Vaughan, by whom he had three sons and a daughter. -The eldest of these sons was “created Lord of Raglan, Chepstow, and -Gower, and commanded to assume the surname of Herbert, in honour of -his ancestor,” the chamberlain to King Henry I., and afterwards Earl -of Pembroke. “He was succeeded by his son, who renounced the earldom -of Pembroke for that of Huntingdon, at the request of King Edward -IV., that monarch being anxious to dignify his son, Prince Edward, -with the title of Earl of Pembroke. - -[Illustration: _The Principal Front._] - -The honour, however, reverted to the Herberts in the reign of Edward -VI., who conferred it upon Sir William Herbert.” This William Herbert, -who had married Anne, sister of Queen Catherine Parr, was knighted -by Henry VIII., and was appointed executor, or “conservator,” of the -King’s will; and shared with Sir Anthony Denny the honour of riding -to Windsor in the chariot with the royal corpse, when Henry’s ashes -were committed to their final resting-place. By Edward VI. Sir William -was elevated to the peerage by the titles of Baron Herbert of Cardiff -and Earl of Pembroke. In 1551 his wife, the Countess of Pembroke, -“died at Baynard’s Castle, and was carried into St. Paul’s in this -order: first, there went an hundred poor men and women in mantle-freez -gowns; next followed the heralds, and then the corse, about which were -eight bannerels of armes, then came the mourners, lordes, knights, -and gentlemen; after them the ladies and gentlewomen mourners, to the -number of 200 in all; next came in coats 200 of her own and other -servants. She was interred by the tomb of the Duke of Lancaster; and -after, her banners were set up over her, and her armes set on divers -pillars.” The Earl died March 17th, 1569-70, and was succeeded by -his son Henry as Earl of Pembroke. This nobleman was thrice married; -first, to Catherine, daughter of Henry Grey, Duke of Suffolk, from -whom he was afterwards divorced; secondly, to Catherine, daughter of -George, Earl of Shrewsbury; and, thirdly, to Mary Sidney, daughter to -Sir Henry Sidney, Knight of the Garter, by his wife, the Lady Mary, -daughter of John, Duke of Northumberland. This lady, the third wife of -the Earl of Pembroke, was sister to one of the greatest of all great -Englishmen—Sir Philip Sidney; and it was for her special delight that -he, while visiting her at Wilton, wrote his inimitable “Arcadia.” By -this lady the Earl of Pembroke had two sons, William and Philip, both -of whom in turn succeeded to the earldom. The Countess, “Sidney’s -sister, Pembroke’s mother,” “a principal ornament to the family of the -Sidneys,” and of whom Spenser wrote that she was - - “The gentlest shepherdess that liv’d that day, - And most resembling, both in shape and spirit, - Her brother dear,” - -survived her husband some time, and at her death, which took place in -1621, that beautiful epitaph so often quoted, and as often erroneously -ascribed to Ben Jonson, was penned by William Browne, and will bear -again quoting here:— - - “Underneath this sable hearse - Lies the subject of all verse; - _Sidney’s_ sister! _Pembroke’s_ mother! - Death, ere thou hast slain another - Fair, and learn’d, and good as she, - Time shall throw a dart at thee! - Marble piles let no man raise - To her name for after days; - Some kind woman, born as she, - Reading this, like Niobe - Shall turn marble, and become - Both her mourner and her tomb.” - -William, third Earl of Pembroke under the new creation, eldest son of -the Earl and of “Sidney’s sister,” succeeded to the title and estates -on the death of his father in 1600-1. Of him Aubrey says, “He was of -a most noble person, and the glory of the court in the reigne of King -James and King Charles. He was handsome and of an admirable presence. - - ‘Gratior et pulchro veniens a corpore virtus.’ - -He was the greatest Mecænas to learned men of any peer of his time—or -since. He was very generous and open-handed. He gave a noble collection -of choice bookes and manuscripts to the Bodleian Library at Oxford, -which remain there as an honourable monument of his munificence. ‘Twas -thought, had he not been suddenly snatcht away by death, to the grief -of all learned and good men, that he would have been a great benefactor -to Pembroke College, in Oxford; whereas, there remains only from him -a great piece of plate that he gave there. He was a good scholar, and -delighted in poetrie; and did sometimes, for his diversion, write some -sonnets and epigrammes which deserve commendation. Some of them are -in print in a little book in 8vo., intituled ‘Poems writt by William, -Earle of Pembroke, and Sir Benjamin Ruddyer, Knight, 1660.’” - -His lordship married Mary, eldest daughter and co-heiress of -Gilbert, seventh Earl of Shrewsbury, by his countess, Mary, daughter -of Sir William Cavendish, of Chatsworth, and his wife, Elizabeth -Hardwick—“Bess of Hardwick”—afterwards Countess of Shrewsbury. By -this marriage the Earl of Pembroke had two sons, who died in their -infancy. Dying without surviving issue, he was succeeded in the title -and estates by his brother, Philip Herbert, who thus became fourth Earl -of Pembroke, and was shortly afterwards created Earl of Montgomery, and -appointed Lord Chamberlain, Gentleman of the King’s Bed-chamber, and -Lord Warden of the Stannaries. He was twice married: first, to Lady -Susan Vere, daughter to the Earl of Oxford, by whom he had a numerous -family; and, secondly, to Anne, daughter and heiress of George, Earl of -Cumberland, and widow of Richard, Earl of Dorset. - -Dying in 1649-51, the Earl was succeeded by his fourth but eldest -surviving son, Philip, as Earl of Pembroke and Montgomery. This -nobleman married, first, Penelope, daughter and heiress of Sir Robert -Naunton; and, secondly, Catherine, daughter of Sir William Villiers, -and, dying in 1669-70, was in his turn succeeded by the eldest son -of his first marriage, William, who, dying unmarried, was succeeded -by his half-brother, Philip (the son of his father by his second -wife), who thus became seventh Earl of Pembroke, and fourth Earl of -Montgomery. This nobleman married Henrietta de Querouaille, sister to -the Duchess of Portsmouth, but dying without male issue, the title -and estates devolved on his younger brother, Thomas, eighth Earl of -Pembroke, who held distinguished offices under William III., Queen -Anne, and George I., and was the founder of the noble collection of -sculptures, &c., at Wilton. His lordship married three times, and was -succeeded by his eldest son, Henry, as ninth earl, of whose taste Lord -Orford says, “Besides his works at Wilton, the new lodge in Windsor -Park, the Countess of Suffolk’s house at Marble Hill, Twickenham, the -water house in Lord Orford’s park at Houghton, are incontestable proofs -of his taste: it was more than taste, it was passion for the utility -and honour of his country, that engaged his lordship to promote and -assiduously overlook the construction of Westminster Bridge by the -ingenious Monsieur Labeyle.” - -He was succeeded in the title and estates by his son, Henry, as tenth -Earl of Pembroke and Earl of Montgomery, who, marrying Elizabeth, -second daughter of Charles Spencer, Duke of Marlborough, had issue one -son and one daughter, and, dying in 1794, was succeeded by his son, -George Augustus Herbert, as eleventh Earl of Pembroke, &c. - -That nobleman married, first, in 1784, Elizabeth, daughter of Topham -Beauclerk, Esq., son of Lord Sidney Beauclerk, and by her, who died -in 1793, had issue the Lady Diana, married to the Earl of Normanton, -and one son, Robert Henry, who succeeded him; and, secondly, in 1808, -Catherine, daughter of Count Woronzow, the Russian ambassador, by whom -he had issue one son, the Hon. Sidney Herbert, M.P., and Secretary -for War, created, in 1861, Lord Herbert of Lea (which title has now -merged into the earldom of Pembroke), and five daughters—viz. the -Lady Elizabeth, married to the Earl of Clanwilliam; the Lady Mary -Caroline; the Lady Catherine; the Lady Georgiana; and the Lady Emma. -His lordship, dying in 1827, was succeeded by the son of his first -marriage, Robert Henry Herbert, as twelfth Earl of Pembroke, &c. This -nobleman was born in 1791, and married, in 1814, the Princess Octavia -Spinelli, daughter of the Duke of Lorraine, and widow of the Sicilian -Prince Buttera de Rubari, by whom he had no issue. He died in 1862, and -(his half-brother, Sidney Herbert, Baron Herbert of Lea, the heir to -the title, having died a few months before him) was succeeded by his -nephew (the son of that honoured statesman), George Robert Charles -Herbert, the present peer—the thirteenth earl—then a minor. - -The Right Hon. Sidney Herbert, who was born in 1810, married, in -1846, Elizabeth, only daughter of Lieutenant-General Charles Ashe -A’Court, who survives him, and is the present Baroness Herbert of -Lea. By her he had issue four sons and three daughters—viz. George -Robert Charles Herbert, now Earl of Pembroke; Sidney, Lord Herbert, -who is heir-presumptive to his brother, and was born in 1853; William -Reginald Herbert, born in 1854; Michael Henry Herbert, born in 1857; -Mary Catherine Herbert, born in 1849; Elizabeth Maude Herbert, born in -1851; and Constance Gwladys, born in 1859. Lord Herbert of Lea died in -1861, and was succeeded in that title by his eldest son, George Robert -Charles Herbert, then eleven years of age, and who, eight months later, -succeeded to the full family estates and earldom. - -The present peer, the Right Hon. George Robert Charles, thirteenth -Earl of Pembroke, Earl of Montgomery, Baron Herbert of Cardiff, Baron -Herbert of Shurland, and Baron Herbert of Lea, Hereditary Visitor of -Jesus College, Oxford, and High Steward of Wilton, was born July 6th, -1850, and succeeded his father as second Baron Herbert of Lea, in 1861, -and his uncle as Earl of Pembroke and Montgomery, &c., in 1862. His -lordship, in 1874, married the Lady Gertrude Frances Talbot, daughter -of the eighteenth Earl of Shrewsbury, and sister of the present earl. - -The arms of the Earl of Pembroke are—party per pale, _azure_ and -_gules_, three lions rampant, _argent_. The crest is a wyvern, _vert_, -holding in its mouth a sinister hand couped at the wrist, _gules_. -The supporters are—dexter, a panther guardant, _argent_, incensed, -spotted, _or_, _vert_, _sable_, _azure_, and _gules_ alternately, -ducally collared, _azure_; sinister, a lion, _argent_, ducally -collared, _or_. Motto—“Ung je serviray.” The Earl is patron of twelve -livings, ten of which are in Wiltshire, one in Dorsetshire, and one in -Shropshire. - -His lordship’s brothers and sisters, children of Lord Herbert of Lea, -were, on his succeeding to the earldom, raised to the rank of earls’ -children by royal warrant in 1862. - -Wilton, a town of “great antiquity,” is situated at the conflux of the -rivers Nadder and Willey, from the latter of which it is said to derive -its name—“Willytown” or “Wilton:” “in Latin it is called Ellandunum.” -The ancient Britons had one of their chief seats here; it was a capital -of the West Saxons, and was undoubtedly famous long before the Norman -Conquest. Afterwards it obtained renown from the number and importance -of its monastic establishments. Leland informs us that it had over -twelve parish churches. Of its abbey there are no remains. It was -dissolved in the thirty-fifth year of King Henry VIII., and the site -and buildings given to Sir William Herbert, afterwards created Earl of -Pembroke; while from its relics Wilton House was principally built.[47] - -[Illustration: _Wilton, from the River._] - -Wilton House—one of the grandest and most beautiful in the kingdom, -and the entrance to which adjoins the town—stands on the site of a -monastery of Saxon foundation, which, on the dissolution, was levelled -with the ground. As we have just intimated, no portion whatever of the -monastic buildings remains, but there can be no doubt they were of -considerable extent and importance. The mansion was built partly from -the designs, it is said, of Hans Holbein, to whom is ascribed the -porch, which, however, in the early part of the present century was -much altered. “The garden front was built by M. Solomon de Caus in the -reign of Charles I., and, having been destroyed by fire in 1648, was -re-erected by Webb from plans which are presumed to have been furnished -by Inigo Jones. In the commencement of the present century the house -was considerably enlarged and remodelled by James Wyatt, R.A., one -of the principal additions being the cloisters for the display and -preservation of the magnificent collection of sculptures. The general -plan of the house is a hollow square, the glazed cloister occupying the -central space.” - -[Illustration: _The Cedars._] - -In this Cloister, and in the Hall that leads to it, are the famous -“marbles” which form so prominent a feature in the attractions of -Wilton—statues, busts, bassi-relievi, urns, vases, fragments of -various kinds—a wonderful assemblage of remains of Greece and -Rome.[48] The collection was formed towards the close of the last -century by Thomas, Earl of Pembroke, who purchased such of the Earl -of Arundel’s collection as had been placed in the house, which were -principally busts; to these he added many purchased at the dispersion -of the Giustiniani collection of marbles, and also at the dispersion of -the Mazarin collection, and from various other sources. - -The Hall contains several statues; but its interest is derived from the -many suits of armour by which it is adorned: they are chiefly trophies -and memorials of the battle of St. Quentin, fought in 1557, in which -the Earl of Pembroke commanded the forces of England. One of the suits -was worn by the Earl, and two of them were, it is said, worn by the -Constable Montmorency and the Duc de Montpensier, both taken prisoners -at that eventful fight. A passage from the Hall leads to the Cloisters, -from which, on either side, are entrances to the various apartments: -these are furnished with judgment and taste, but their attractions are -the pictures that adorn the walls. - -The renowned “family picture” by Vandyke is beyond question the great -painter’s masterpiece: it is 17 feet in length, by 11 feet in height, -and fills one end of the drawing-room. It contains ten whole-length -figures, the two principal of which are Philip, Earl of Pembroke, and -his lady, Susan, daughter of Edward, Earl of Oxford. On the right stand -their three sons, on the left their daughter and her husband, Robert, -Earl of Carnarvon. Before them is Lady Mary, the wife of Charles, Lord -Herbert, and above them, in the clouds, are two sons and a daughter who -died young. It is a most grand and glorious work, the value of which is -not to be estimated by money. - -The room, which is called also the Cube Room, contains some thirteen -other pictures, the productions of Vandyke. - -Other of the great old masters are well represented in the several -apartments of the mansion: many of them are, indeed, of great beauty -and value. - -We might occupy much space by printing a list of these pictures: -they comprise a large number of the great Italian artists. They are, -however, such as one usually meets in these palatial residences, and -are thrown into comparative obscurity by the glorious assemblage of -Vandykes. - -In Lady Pembroke’s Summer Dressing-room there is a Gothic window by -Price, “to whom Parliament granted £5,000 for having discovered the -ancient method of staining glass.” - -[Illustration: _The Hall._] - -The house is made thoroughly comfortable as a home; it has never been -abandoned by the family, but has been their continual residence. -Everywhere, consequently, there is an aspect of thorough comfort. -Grace, elegance, and indeed splendour, are sufficiently apparent, but -the obvious study has long been to render the dwelling in all respects -the abode of an English nobleman who loved to live among his own -people. None will wonder at this who knew the late Lord Herbert of -Lea, who so long and so continuously lived in that delightful home. - -To the Gardens and Grounds of Wilton House we desire to direct -the reader’s especial attention; they have been by no means left -solely to the guardianship of Nature. Art has done much to give -aid to the beauties of hill and dell, and river and wooded slopes -and pasture-land. Immediately around the mansion the skill of the -gardener is manifest: trim walks, and pastures, and summer-houses, and -conservatories add to the natural grace and beauty of the scene. One -garden especially, into which there is a passage from the Drawing-room, -is very beautifully laid out, overlooked by a graceful arcade, in which -are vases and busts, and to which, no doubt, the family and their -guests often retreat to enjoy the bounties of free air and light among -the adornments that are here so lavish. - -[Illustration: _The Drawing-room._] - -A most picturesque and singularly beautiful bridge joins the park -to the grounds, crossing the Nadder. It was built from a design by -Palladio, and has an open Ionic colonnade. The park slopes up from the -river; and in the grounds are some of the finest cedars to be seen in -England. - -Here, it is said, Sir Philip Sidney wrote the “Arcadia;” and the -memorable book bears conclusive evidence that he drew much of his -inspiration from these gardens and grounds. The book may be, as Milton -styles it, “a vain amatorious poem;” but it is full of beautiful -descriptions of Nature, and shows how dearly the chivalric writer -really loved the natural and the true; and it demands no strong stretch -of fancy to imagine Philip Sidney, accompanied by William Shakspere, -Edmund Spenser, and Philip Massinger (he was born in the place, and -probably in the house), walking among these now aged trees, along these -embowered walks, and by the banks of the fair river that runs to enrich -them as it did centuries ago:— - - “And all without were walkes and alleys dight - With divers trees enrang’d in even rankes; - And here and there were pleasant arbors pight, - And shadie seates and sundry flowring bankes, - To sit and rest the walker’s wearie shankes.” - -Yes; it is obviously to these grounds and gardens that reference is -made in the “Arcadia:”— - - “There were hilles which garnished their proud heights with stately - trees; humble vallies whose base estate seemed comforted with - refreshing of silver rivers; medowes enamel with all sortes of - eypleasing floures; thickets, which, being lined with most pleasant - shade, were witnessed so too, by the cheerfull disposition of many - well-tuned birds; each pasture stored with sheepe feeding with sober - securitie, while the pretie lambes with bleating oratorie craved the - dams’ comfort; here a shepheard’s boy piping as though he should neuer - be old; there a young shepherdesse knitting and withall singing; and - it seemed that her voice comforted her hands to worke, and her hands - kept time to her voice’s musick.” - -It is to-day as it was so long ago—when the sweetest of all the -singers and the most heroic of all the cavaliers of old times had -their healthy walks through these woods, and their poetic “talks” -under the branches of these patrician trees—old then, and very old -now. Truly Wilton is “a place for pleasantnesse,” and “not unfit for -solitarinesse.” - -“Gloriana”—Queen Elizabeth—did certainly visit this “chosen plot of -fertile land;” partook of “a very fair and pleasant banquet” in this -park; and from Wilton she carried away many rich gifts, including “a -mermaid of gold, having a maid upon her back garnished with sparks of -diamonds.” - -From a queen to a man of genius, who was a good man, is not a long -leap. What visitor to Wilton will forget the name of that George -Herbert who was the humble and faithful servant of God—who did His -work in this locality, and who, while he threw a line across the -glistening Nadder (for he was the disciple as well as the friend of -Izaak Walton), here wove those fancies into verse which after ages have -not suffered to die? - -And surely we may well close our notes on Wilton by quoting good old -Izaak’s summary of the character of Lord Edward Herbert:— - - “He was one of the handsomest men of his day, of a beauty alike - stately, chivalric, and intellectual. His person and features were - cultivated by all the disciplines of a time when courtly graces were - not insignificant, because a monarch-mind informed the court, nor - warlike customs rude or mechanical, for industrial nature had free - play in the field, except as restrained by the laws of courtesy and - honour. The steel glove became his hand, and the spur his heel; - neither can we fancy him out of his place, for any place he would have - made his own.” - -There is yet another of the worthies of Wilton to claim and receive -the homage of every visitor—the Right Hon. Sidney Herbert, created -Lord Herbert of Lea before his premature death. He did not outlive his -brother, the Earl, but his son inherited the titles and estates, and is -now, as we have stated, the thirteenth Earl of Pembroke. - -There is a statue of Sidney Herbert, by Marochetti, in the Market-place -at Salisbury; and a far better statue of him, by Foley, fronts the War -Office in Pall Mall: it honours him as the Secretary of War, and makes -record of some of his triumphs as the gentle and genial advocate of -peace and Christian charity to all mankind. “Sidney Herbert,” says Mr. -Hall, who was associated with him as one of the Honorary Secretaries -of the Nightingale Fund, “seemed to me a copy, and without an atom -deteriorated, of his renowned relative-predecessor, Lord Herbert -of Cherbury. He lived in another age, and had to discharge very -different duties; but there was the same heroic sentiment, the same -high chivalry, the same generous sympathy with suffering, the same -stern and steady resolve to right the wrong. It is not too much to say -that what we may have imagined of the chivalry of a past age we have -witnessed in our own: a gentleman who gave dignity to the loftiest -rank; who thought it no condescension to be kind and courteous to -the very humblest who approached him. To rare personal advantages he -added those of large intellectual acquirements. He spoke, if not as an -orator, with impressive eloquence; as a man of practical business, few -were his superiors; he had the mind of a statesman, yet gave earnest -and thoughtful care to all the minor details of life. His death was a -public calamity.” - -[Illustration: _The New Church at Wilton._] - -No one who visits Wilton—either the town or the mansion—will leave -it without seeing and examining “the New Church,” of which we give -an engraving. It was erected in 1844, at the cost of Sidney Herbert, -the architects being F. H. Wyatt and D. Brandon. The style, as will -be perceived, is that of the ordinary Romanesque. It is a singularly -beautiful and very gorgeous structure, built without regard to -expense: perhaps there is nothing more perfect, of its class, in the -kingdom. The following details from a local newspaper give a technical -description of this edifice:— - - “The church is raised on a terrace with a noble flight of steps 100 - feet long, and a platform 20 feet in width. The centre entrance of the - east front forms an open-recessed porch within a rich archway, which - contains four columns on each side. Over this centre entrance is a - series of small circular-headed arches, forming a sort of exterior - gallery at the back of the one within, and producing a good deal - of relief and richness. Immediately above it is a very large rose - window, of elaborate design, set within a square, whose spandrils - are sculptured with the emblems of the four evangelists. The lofty - campanile tower is connected with the south-east angle of the building - by a vestibule or cloister, whose elaborately carved open arches and - columns present a pleasing contrast to the breadth and solidity of - the other parts. On the same side of the church, at the west end, is - a projecting porch (or vestry), which naturally increases the play - and picturesqueness of the composition. Upon entering the rich door - in the east front, already described, we pass between two screens of - twisted columns, dividing the gallery staircase from the centre porch. - Immediately opposite to this entrance is placed the font, a massive - structure of black and variegated Italian marble. It is carved with - lions’ heads at the corners, and the basin is richly foliated. The - pedestal is of white marble in panels, inlaid with vine-leaves in - black marble. The whole is raised on a black marble plinth.... The - pulpit is of stone, inlaid with panels of marble, and glittering with - rich mosaic-work, having also four twisted columns wholly composed - of ancient mosaic, and supported by the black marble columns with - alabaster capitals. The roofing of the nave and aisles is of open - timber-work, stained to imitate dark chestnut.... The height of the - campanile is 100 feet; and in it are hung a peal of six bells, brought - from the old church. The remaining dimensions are as under: from the - western porch to the chancel apse, 120 feet; width, 53 feet; width of - nave between the columns, 24 feet; height, 57 feet; aisles, 13 feet - wide, and 24 feet high.” - -One of the most interesting places in Wilton is the famous “Royal -Axminster and Wilton Carpet Factory” of Messrs. Yates and Co., and -this, through the courtesy of the proprietors, may be seen by visitors -to this district. This manufactory, which occupies nearly two acres -of ground and gives employment to nearly four hundred people, was the -first place in England where carpets were made. A charter was granted -in 1701, and other charters of 1706 and 1725 (by which the weavers were -made a corporate body, with stewards, &c.) were also granted. By these -all persons who were not members of the body of weavers were prevented -from carrying on the same business within three miles of the borough -of Wilton, stamped certificates, after seven years’ apprenticeship, -being given by the corporation to such men as were elected by them. -The carpets then made were naturally of a coarse and very inferior -character to those produced after on. To Henry, ninth Earl of Pembroke -and sixth Earl of Montgomery, of whom we have spoken in a preceding -page, and who died in 1751, England is indebted for the introduction -of the manufacture of superior descriptions of carpets. Like many of -his ancestors, he was a man of refined taste, and spent large sums -of money in adorning his mansion at Wilton. Lord Orford says of him, -“The soul of Inigo Jones, who had been patronised by his ancestors, -seems still to hover over its favourite Wilton, and to have assisted -the muses of Art in the education of this noble person. The towers, -the chambers, the scenes which Holbein, Jones, and Vandyke decorated, -and which Earl Thomas had enriched with the spoil of the best ages, -received the last touches of beauty from Earl Henry’s hand.” The Earl -during his travels in Flanders and France had taken great interest -in the carpet works of those countries, and he noticed the much more -general use of this article of furniture there than in England, where -it was then regarded as an exotic luxury, and the idea occurred to him -that the manufacture might be established in England, so as to form a -new industry, and be a source of employment to the poor. He therefore -entered into arrangements with artists, superintendents, and a body of -workmen; brought them to England about the year 1745; and settled them -in Wilton—thus laying the foundation of that branch of manufacture -which now in England surpasses by far that of any other country. - -The productions of this famous historical factory, to which, years -ago, the looms and trade from Axminster were transferred, are entirely -hand-made, and in this particular the manufactory is the only one in -existence in this kingdom. Carpets of various degrees of quality and of -different descriptions are here made, but whether “Brussels,” “Saxony,” -“Velvet-pile,” “Axminster,” or what not, all are “real hand-made,” and -all of extreme excellence, both in design and in superiority of make. -“Royal carpets” for Windsor Castle, for Buckingham Palace, and other -abodes of royalty, may now and then be seen by the visitor in course -of weaving, and many of these better-class carpets, which are an inch -or more in thickness, and of the softness of down to the tread, are of -the most gorgeous character in design and in brilliancy and arrangement -of colours. A “Wilton carpet” indicates a high degree of refinement in -furnishing, and its enduring quality gives it a strong recommendation. - -Wilton House is within three miles of venerable Salisbury, six miles -or so from Stonehenge, and some three or four miles from “Old Sarum;” -the visitor may, therefore, with but little sacrifice of time, examine -three of the most interesting of all the relics of ancient England, -while Wilton itself may well be ranked as a fourth. - -[Illustration: _Salisbury Cathedral._] - -If we have cathedrals grander, more extensive, and more magnificent -than that of Salisbury, we have none more graceful: “the singular -uniformity displayed in its design and style, the harmony which -pervades its several parts and proportions, and the striking air of -brightness, simplicity, and elegance, that reigns throughout the whole, -all conspire to invest it with a charm peculiarly its own; whilst the -great elevation of its graceful spire renders it without exception the -most lofty building in the kingdom.” Grace is, indeed, its especial -attribute, and beauty has not been here “a fatal gift;” for the sacred -edifice seems as perfect to-day as it was many centuries ago. - -Stonehenge is near at hand; that wonderful assemblage of stones which -tell us—nothing, defying even the guess-work of the antiquary, -concerning which tradition is dumb; yet there they stand as they stood -thousands of years ago, solitary in their solemn grandeur upon the -plain where the grouse and hares are even now their only neighbours. - -“Old Sarum” seems but a huge waste heap: it rises high above environing -scenery; there are no dwellings on the “mound”—not even one where -might have been registered the return to Parliament of the member by -whom it was represented, until Reform arrested its chronicles, and -swept it away as a city for ever. - - - - -RABY CASTLE. - - -FEW counties are so rich in ancient fortresses and castellated -buildings as Durham; but pre-eminent among these in historical -interest, and perhaps in antiquity, is Raby Castle, which we add to our -series. Situate about six or seven miles from Barnard Castle, a trifle -more than that from Bishop Auckland, and about a dozen from Darlington, -Raby Castle, with its grand old park, lies close to the pretty little -town of Staindrop, about which we shall say a few words later on. The -castle itself, with its many massive towers and turrets, is built on -rising ground, on a foundation of solid rock, and is surrounded and -enclosed by a massive battlemented wall, the area of the edifice, -within the wall, comprising about two acres of land. The castle was -formerly surrounded by a moat, the course of which, although now filled -up, is clearly traceable; in its place extensive sheets of ornamental -water have been very judiciously laid out, and give to the scene the -effect, in approaching the castle from the park, of a fine but placid -river. - -Raby Park, which surrounds the castle, consists of several hundred -acres of the finest land, and contains a noble herd of more than five -hundred red and fallow deer. The park is entered by three Lodges of -ancient and unpretentious appearance. The South Lodge, which is the -main entrance, is situated about one hundred yards from Staindrop -Church. On entering the Lodge, within a very short distance from here -the towers of the castle are visible, and continue in sight for some -considerable distance, when a sharp incline cuts off the view. On -attaining the summit the grand old pile is again seen standing boldly -out from the grounds, and forming a most imposing prospect, which is -greatly enhanced by the sheet of water that at this point separates -the castle from the observer. The carriage drive from the Lodge has -hitherto been wavy and circuitous in its route, but from here it takes -a straight course across the Pond, or Lake, of ten acres in extent, -by means of an embankment, and again continues in a circuitous form -through an avenue of grand old venerable beech-trees, which terminates -at the entrance, or Porter’s Lodge, to the castle itself. - -[Illustration: _South Side._] - -The Pond, or Lake, which is divided by the carriage drive, is situated -on the west side of the castle, its western portion overflowing into -the eastern half, that flows to and surrounds the south battlement -walls; the Moat, which is now dry, receding from it to the east and -west. The Lake is well supplied with swans and other aquatic birds. - -The East Lodge is a foot entrance for the workpeople; the North Lodge, -or back entrance, has two low castellated towers, one on each side of -the entrance gates. - -The Home Park and Woods consist of nine hundred and forty acres, which -are intersected by fifteen miles of drives and walks. The Woods are -beautifully varied and picturesque, especially the North Wood, which -forms the north boundary of the park, and rises considerably above the -castle, commanding a most extensive and charming landscape, especially -on a clear sunset evening, when the old dark walls of the castle are -lit up by its golden rays, which are also reflected on the far-distant -Yorkshire and Richmond hills. - -The Bath Wood, which is quite of a different nature from the North -Wood, is situated a short distance to the west of the castle in a -valley that is thickly wooded, and through which walks and drives -wind their way in such varied forms as to render it one of the most -enjoyable summer retreats that can possibly be desired. The walks and -drives all terminate at the Bath-house, somewhat west of the centre of -the wood. In front of the Bath, which consists of two rooms, supplied -by a natural spring of intensely cold water, is a fine open lawn, well -laid out with rhododendron beds and single specimens of conifers, with -a lake-stream of water winding its way in various falls and artificial -forms. This open space, or lawn, is thickly surrounded with grand old -beech and spruce-fir trees, blending most charmingly together. At the -back and on the north side of the Bath-house is a picturesquely built -lodge or cottage, inhabited by persons who have charge of the Baths. - -The Gardens are situated on the north side of the castle, on a slight -incline, which commands some of the most interesting views of the north -side of the building. The whole grounds pertaining to the Gardens, -including the head and under gardeners’ dwellings, are enclosed within -substantial time-worn brick walls, which are strictly in keeping with -the castle itself. The interior is formed into various sections by -brick walls and massive yew hedges, that are kept closely clipped in -tapering form; in measure they are ten feet wide, and eleven feet high, -and probably were planted in the days of the first occupiers of the -castle. Formerly these sections were almost exclusively devoted to -the culture of fruit and vegetables, but of late years bedding plants -of all descriptions have been extensively introduced, associating -very agreeably the ornamental with the useful. On a terrace which is -bounded on one side by a stream of water is a ribbon border extending -its whole length; and on the south side of the boundary wall the -effect produced by the bends and receding form of the border is very -charming, and the perfection of what a ribbon border should be. Glass -structures are extensive, and principally devoted to fruit culture, -especially to pines and grapes. Excepting the Conservatory and two or -three other houses containing some very fine specimens of tropical -plants, plant culture is little regarded. Most of these houses have -been reconstructed on the most approved modern principles, but they are -scattered about in all directions. The noble range of vineries erected -some thirty years since, that contained the vines which caused so much -controversy amongst horticulturists on the carrion system of vine -culture, are now things of the past, and are succeeded by fine healthy -canes, which must, to all present appearance, produce in the future -fruit of the most approved excellence. In addition to the many glass -structures devoted to fruit culture, hot-air walls are also introduced -for the same purpose, which, especially in the case of apricots, insure -a full crop in spite of unpropitious weather. - -The most-cared-for antique occupant in the Garden is, however, the -famous “Raby Fig-tree,” which, although known to be upwards of one -hundred years old, still produces annually thousands of figs of the -finest quality. This remarkable tree is covered by a primitive glass -structure, very much in keeping with its own venerable character. The -house in which the tree is planted is fifty feet in length, eight feet -in width, and nearly twelve feet in height; and every possible space of -this house, both walls and rafters, is occupied by this one tree, which -bids fair to live and flourish and produce fruit for many a century -yet to come. The house is heated by flues. Another speciality of the -Gardens is the original “Raby Red Currant,” whose trees are still in as -good preservation, as prolific, and as much in repute as ever. - -The name of Raby points to a Danish origin, and it is first named, so -far as any record is known, in connection with King Canute, who, after -making his celebrated pilgrimage over Garmondsway Moor to the shrine of -St. Cuthbert at Durham, offered it, with Staindrop and its shire, to -the shrine of that saint. It continued, except for a time during the -life of Bishop Flambard, in the peaceful possession of the monks until -1131, when they granted it, for an annual rent of £4, to Dolfin, son of -Ughtred, of the blood royal of Northumberland. - -[Illustration: _North-east Side._] - -To him, Mr. Hodgson is of opinion, is to be ascribed the first -foundation of the manor. The descendant of Dolfin, Robert Fitz-Maldred, -lineal heir to Ughtred, Earl of Northumberland, was described as -“Dominus de Raby,” when, early in the thirteenth century, he married -Isabel de Nevil (daughter to Geoffrey de Nevil, the grandson of Gilbert -de Nevil, who came over with the Conqueror, by the daughter and sole -heiress of Bertram de Bulmer), who, by the death of her brother, the -last male of his line, became sole heiress and representative of the -great Saxon house of Bulmer, Lords of Brancepath and Sheriff-Hutton. -Their son Geoffrey assumed his mother’s surname of Nevil, and thus laid -afresh the foundation of the great house of that name. He had issue -two sons—Robert, who succeeded him, and Geoffrey, who became Constable -of Scarborough Castle and Justice Itinerant, and from whom the Nevils -of Hornby, afterwards merged in the Beauforts, descended. Robert de -Nevil, who was Governor of Norham, Werke, York, Devizes, and Bamborough -Castles, Warden of all the King’s forests north of the Trent, Justice -Itinerant, General of all forces beyond the Trent, and Sheriff of -Yorkshire, joined the rebellious barons, but was afterwards restored -to favour. His son Robert, called the “Peacock of the North,” dying -without issue during his lifetime, this elder Robert was succeeded by -Ralph de Nevil, who took a prominent part in the troublous internal -wars of his time. He in turn was succeeded by his son, John de Nevil, -Baron of Raby, who was Admiral of the King’s fleet from the Thames -northward, Warden of the East Marches, Lieutenant of the Duchy of -Aquitaine, and Seneschal of Bordeaux. He died 12th Richard II., and was -succeeded by his eldest son, Ralph, his second son being Thomas, Lord -Furnival. This John, Lord Nevil, was the builder of the present castle -of Raby. - -Ralph, Lord Nevil of Raby, held many important offices, and founded -the collegiate church of Staindrop. By his first wife, Margaret, -daughter of Hugh, Earl of Stafford, he had issue two sons—John, who -died during his father’s lifetime, and Ralph, “who married the daughter -and heir of Ferrers of Oversley, by whom he had John Nevil, called -Lord Ferrers, whose daughter Joan (heir to the baronies of Oversley -and Newmarch), being married to Sir William Gascoigne, brought forth -Margaret Gascoigne, their daughter and heir, wife to Wentworth; whence -the Barons Raby of that surname do descend”—and seven daughters: -Maud, married to Baron de Mauley; Alice, to Sir Thomas Grey; Philippa, -to Baron Dacres of Gillesland; Margaret, to Baron Scrope; Anne, to -Sir Gilbert de Umfraville; Margery and Elizabeth, nuns. His second -wife was Joan, daughter of John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster, “by -whom he had issue eight sons—Richard, Earl of Salisbury; William, -Baron Falconberg; George, Baron Latimer; Edward, Baron Bergavenny; -Robert, Bishop of Durham; Cuthbert, Henry, and Thomas, which three -last died issueless. Also five daughters—Catherine, married first to -John Mowbray, Duke of Norfolk, secondly to Thomas Strangways, Esq., -thirdly to John, Viscount Beaumont, and lastly to Sir John Widville, -Knight; Eleanor, or Elizabeth, to Richard, Baron Spencer, secondly to -Henry Percy, Earl of Northumberland; Anne, to Humphrey, Duke of Bucks, -and afterwards to Walter Blunt, Baron Mountjoy; Jane, a nun; and -Ciceley, to Richard Plantagenet, Duke of York.” He was created Earl -of Westmoreland, being “the first who was made earl of this county;” -and at his death, in the 4th of Henry VI., he was succeeded by his -grandson, Ralph Nevil, as second Earl of Westmoreland and Baron Nevil -of Raby, who in turn was succeeded by his cousin, Ralph Nevil, son to -Sir John Nevil, as third Earl of Westmoreland. He married Margaret, -daughter of Sir Roger Booth, by whom he had issue, with others, one -son, who died in his father’s lifetime, leaving a son, Ralph, who in -turn succeeded his grandfather. - -Ralph, fourth Earl of Westmoreland and Baron Nevil of Raby, married -Catherine, daughter of Edward Stafford, Duke of Buckinghamshire, by -whom he had issue seven sons and five daughters, and was, at his death, -succeeded by his eldest son, Henry Nevil, as fifth earl. This earl -married Anne, daughter to Thomas Manners, Earl of Rutland, by whom, -amongst others, he had issue a son, Charles, who succeeded him as fifth -Earl of Westmoreland and Baron Nevil of Raby. - -This nobleman, Charles, fifth Earl of Westmoreland, having taken -an active part in the rebellion against Queen Elizabeth, known as -the “Rising in the North,” was defeated, and all his possessions -confiscated to the Crown. He left only female issue. - -Raby, having passed into the hands of the Crown, was afterwards sold to -the Vanes, to which family we now draw attention. - -It will thus be seen that Raby Castle holds a very high rank among the -ancient castles of England, and is one of the few of its old glories -that continue to be the habitation of its lords. - -The family of Vane, of which the Duke of Cleveland, the owner of Raby -Castle, is the head, is of very high antiquity, and, unlike many of our -noted families, has been continued in unbroken succession from at least -the time of the Norman Conquest down to the present hour. The first of -whom we have any authentic record—although doubtless the family might -be traced much further back still—is Howell ap Vane, who was living in -Monmouthshire antecedently to the Conquest. His son, Griffith ap Howell -Vane, married Lettyce, daughter of Bledwyn ap Kynvyn, Lord of Powys, -who was founder of three noble tribes of Wales, and by usurpation -sovereign of North and South Wales. Their son was Enyon, or Ivon, -“the Fair,” who married a daughter of Owen ap Edwyn Meredith. Passing -on through the next three generations, we come to Sir Henry Vane, -knighted at the battle of Poitiers, in 1356, where he claimed to have -assisted in taking prisoner John, King of France, who, in token of his -captivity, took off his dexter gauntlet and gave it to Vane: from that -moment he adopted it as his cognisance, and it has been continued both -as a crest and as a charge on the shield of arms. - -[Illustration: _South and East Sides._] - -He married Grace, daughter of Sir Stephen de la Leke, and was succeeded -by his son, John Vane, whose great-grandson, Henry Vane (his elder -brother having died without issue), married Isabella, daughter of Henry -Persall, or Peshall, by whom he had a family of eight sons and two -daughters, and, in default of issue of the eldest two, was succeeded -by his third son, John Vane (whose younger brother, Sir Ralph Vane, -married Elizabeth, known as “the good Lady Vane,” and was knighted at -the siege of Bulleyn, in 1544; he afterwards purchased Penshurst, -was attainted 4th Edward VI., executed on Tower Hill, and his estates -forfeited). John Vane, who was of Hilden, in Kent, assumed the name of -Fane in lieu of Vane, and married Isabella, daughter of John Darknoll, -or Darrell, and was succeeded by their second son, Richard Fane, -of Tudeley, at whose death, in 1540, he was succeeded by his only -son, George Fane, of Badsall, who married Joan, daughter of William -Waller, of Groombridge, from whom the present Earl of Westmoreland is -descended. The fourth son of John Vane, or Fane, of Hilden, was John -Fane, who was in possession of Hadlow when his uncle, Sir Ralph, was -executed. He married Joan, daughter and co-heiress of Sir Edward Hawte, -of Tonbridge, by whom, with others, he had a son, his successor, Henry -Fane, of Hadlow, who took part in Wyatt’s insurrection, was committed -to the Tower, but afterwards pardoned and released. - -His grandson, Sir Henry Fane, resumed the ancient patronymic of -his family, Vane, in lieu of Fane, and this has continued to the -present time. This Henry Fane, or Vane, was knighted in 1611, and was -constituted one of the regents of the kingdom for the safe keeping -of the Queen, Prince Charles, and the rest of the royal children. In -1616, on the disgrace of Robert Carr of Fernyhurst, Earl of Somerset, -Sir Henry Vane received a lease from the trustees for support of the -household of Charles, Prince of Wales, for the remainder of the term -granted to Carr. He was principal Secretary of State to James I., and -Cofferer of the Household to Charles I. In 1626 he purchased the castle -and manor of Raby, and in 1632 was sent as ambassador to Sweden to -expostulate with Gustavus Adolphus in favour of the Elector Palatine. -In the following year he nobly entertained the King at Raby, on his -journey to and from Scotland, on the occasion of his coronation. He -married Frances, daughter of Thomas Darcy, of Tolleshunt Darcy, and -died at Raby Castle in 1654. By this union he had seven sons—viz. -Thomas and John, who died in infancy; Sir Henry Vane, who succeeded -him; and Sir George Vane, from whom the Marquis of Londonderry, who -sits as Earl Vane, is descended; Sir Walter Vane, Charles Vane, and -William Vane—and eight daughters, among whom were Margaret, married to -Sir Thomas Pelham, from whom are descended the Duke of Newcastle and -the Earl of Chichester; and Frances, wife of Sir Robert Honeywood. - -Sir Henry Vane (third son), who succeeded his father in the estates of -Raby, Fairlawn, Shipborne, &c., in 1654, had a very chequered, but -historical life. He was educated at Westminster and Oxford, proceeded -to Geneva, and afterwards to America, where he was elected Governor -of Massachusetts. He was also M.P. for Hull and other places, and was -knighted in 1640. He is characterized as “one of the most turbulent -enthusiasts produced by the rebellion, and an inflexible Republican,” -by some, but by Milton as - - “Vane, young in years, but in sage counsel old.” - -In 1659 he was, in Pepys’s own words, “this day voted out of the House, -and to sit no more there; and that he would retire himself to his house -at Raby.” And again, a month later, “This day, by an order of the -House, Sir H. Vane was sent out of town to his house in Lincolnshire.” -In 1661 he, with Lambert and others, was sent prisoner to Scilly. -He had in former years been joined with Sir William Russell in the -office of Treasurer of the Navy, which yielded an annual income of -£30,000; but although, as survivor of Russell, the whole of this was -his by patent for life, he voluntarily and disinterestedly gave it up -to Parliament, reserving only a salary of £2,000 a year for an agent. -A series of charges having been drawn up against Vane—principally -arising out of his just indignation at the title of Raby having been -bestowed upon the Earl of Strafford—he was, on the 6th of June, 1662, -found guilty of high treason, and, on the 14th of the same month, -beheaded on Tower Hill. Of this execution it is needless to give any -particulars beyond those written, the same day, by Pepys. He says, “Up -by four o’clock in the morning and upon business at my office. Then we -sat down to business, and about eleven o’clock, having a room got ready -for us, we all went out to the Tower Hill; and there over against the -scaffold, made on purpose this day, saw Sir Henry Vane brought. A very -great press of people. He made a long speech, many times interrupted by -the sheriffe and others there; and they would have taken his paper out -of his hand, but he would not let it go. But they caused all the books -of those that writ after him to be given the sheriffe; and the trumpets -were brought under the scaffold that he might not be heard. Then he -prayed and so fitted himself, and received the blow; but the scaffold -was so crowded that we could not see it done. But Boreman, who had been -upon the scaffold, came to us and told us, that first he began to speak -of the irregular proceeding against him; that he was, against Magna -Charta, denied to have his exceptions against the indictment allowed: -and that there he was stopped by the sheriffe. Then he drew out his -paper of notes, and began to tell them first his life; that he was born -a gentleman, that he was bred up and had the quality of a gentleman, -and to make him in the opinion of the world more a gentleman, he -had been till he was seventeen years old a good fellow, but then it -pleased God to lay a foundation of grace in his heart by which he was -persuaded, against his worldly interest, to leave all preferment and -go abroad, where he might serve God with more freedom. Then he was -called home and made a member of the Long Parliament, where he never -did to this day anything against his conscience, but all for the glory -of God. Here he would have given them an account of the proceedings of -the Long Parliament, but they so often interrupted him that at last -he was forced to give over, and so fell into prayer for England in -generall, then for the churches of England, and then for the City of -London: and so fitted himself for the block, and received the blow. He -had a blister, or issue, upon his neck, which he desired them not hurt: -he changed not his colour or speech to the last, but died justifying -himself and the cause he had stood for; and spake very confidently of -his being presently at the right hand of Christ; and in all things -appeared the most resolved man that ever died in that manner, and -showed more of heate than cowardice, but yet with all humility and -gravity. One asked him why he did not pray for the King? He answered, -‘Nay,’ says he, ‘you shall see I can pray for the King: I pray God -bless him!’ The King had given his body to his friends, and, therefore, -he told them that he hoped they would be civil to his body when dead; -and desired they would let him die like a gentleman and a Christian, -and not crowded and pressed as he was.” - -This unfortunate, but gifted member of the family of Vane had married, -in 1639, Frances, daughter of Sir Christopher Wray, Bart., of Ashby -and Glentworth, in Lincolnshire, by whom he had issue seven sons, -five of whom died young. The fifth son was Sir Christopher Vane, who -was knighted in 1688, made a Privy Councillor, and in July, 1699, -created Baron Barnard of Barnard Castle, county of Durham. He married -Elizabeth, eldest daughter of Gilbert Holles, third Earl of Clare, and -sister of John Holles, Duke of Newcastle. By her Baron Barnard had -issue, with others, a son—Gilbert Vane, who succeeded him; and another -son—William Vane, who was created Viscount Vane and Baron Duncannon. -This Viscount Vane married Lucy, daughter of William Jolliffe, Esq., -of Caverswall, in Staffordshire, and was father, by her, of William -Holles Vane, second Viscount, whose wife (Frances, daughter of Francis -Hawes, of Purley Hall, and widow of Lord William Hamilton) was the -notorious Lady Vane, whose intrigues and disreputable course of life -form the subject of the “Memoirs of a Lady of Quality” in “Peregrine -Pickle,” which were “written by herself, which she coolly told her lord -to read.” - -Gilbert Vane, second Baron Barnard, who succeeded his father, the first -baron, in 1723, and died in 1753, married Mary, daughter and heiress -of Morgan Randyll, of Chilworth, by whom he had six sons and three -daughters. His eldest son and successor was Henry, third Baron Barnard, -a Lord of the Treasury, who, in 1754, was advanced to the dignity of -Viscount Barnard and Earl of Darlington. This nobleman, of whom Lord -Orford wrote, “He never said a false thing nor did a bad one,” married, -in 1725, the Lady Grace, daughter of Charles Fitzroy, first Duke of -Cleveland, by whom he had issue three sons and three daughters. The -eldest son was Lord Henry Vane, who succeeded his father as second Earl -of Darlington and fourth Baron Barnard; he married Margaret, sister of -the first Earl of Lonsdale; and, dying in 1792, was succeeded by their -eldest son, William Henry, as fifth baron and third earl. - -This nobleman, who held many important appointments, was born in 1766; -in 1827 he was advanced to the dignity of Marquis of Cleveland; and -in 1833 was again advanced to the title of Duke of Cleveland, and had -the barony of Raby conferred upon him. He was married twice: first, in -1787, to the Lady Katharine Margaretta Powlett, daughter and co-heiress -of the sixth and last Duke of Bolton, and a co-heiress of the barony -of St. John of Basing; and secondly, in 1813, to Elizabeth Russell, -of Newton House, Yorkshire. By his first marriage the Duke had issue -three sons (who have each in succession become Dukes of Cleveland) and -five daughters—one of whom, Lady Louisa Catherine Barbara, married a -brother of the first Lord Forester, and another, the Lady Arabella, -married the third Lord Alvanley. The Duke was succeeded at his death, -in 1842, by his eldest son— - -Henry Vane, second duke and marquis, third earl and viscount, and sixth -baron, who was born in 1788, and died, without issue, in 1864, having -married, in 1809, Lady Sophia, daughter of the fourth Earl Powlett. He -was succeeded by his brother, William John Frederick Vane, as third -duke and marquis, fourth earl and viscount, and seventh baron, who -assumed the surname of Powlett in lieu of that of Vane, but in 1864 -resumed his original patronymic of Vane. His grace married, in 1815, -Caroline, fourth daughter of the first Earl of Lonsdale, but died -without issue in 1864, when he was in turn succeeded in his titles and -estates by his brother, the present Duke of Cleveland. - -The present noble head of this grand old family, whose genealogy we -have thus briefly traced, is Harry George Powlett (late Vane), Duke -of Cleveland, Marquis of Cleveland, Earl of Darlington, Viscount -Barnard of Barnard Castle, Baron Barnard, and Baron Raby, a Knight of -the Garter, &c. His grace is, as has been shown, a son of the first -Duke of Cleveland, and brother of the second and third dukes. He was -born in 1803, and succeeded to the titles and estates in 1864, when, -by royal license, he assumed the surname and arms of Powlett in lieu -of those of Vane. His grace, who was educated at Eton and at Oriel -College, Oxford, was attached to the embassy at Paris in 1829, and -was appointed Secretary of Legation at Stockholm in 1839. In 1854 he -married Lady Catherine Lucy Wilhelmina Stanhope, daughter of the late -Earl Stanhope (President of the Society of Antiquaries), and widow of -Lord Dalmeny, son of the Earl of Rosebery, by whom, however, he has -no issue, so that at his decease—his brothers, the second and third -dukes, having also died without issue—the titles, with the exception -of that of Baron Barnard, will become extinct. The heir to the barony -of Barnard is Morgan Vane, Esq. (only son of the late Rev. Robert -Morgan Vane), great-grandson of the Hon. Morgan Vane, brother of Henry, -third Baron Barnard, who, as we have shown, was created Viscount -Barnard and Earl of Darlington. This Robert Morgan Vane married, as -his first wife, Margaretta, daughter of Robert Knight, and ultimately -heiress to Robert, Earl of Catherlough, from which marriage the present -heir-presumptive is descended. - -The arms of Vane are (as already explained, from the circumstance of -one of the family taking the French king prisoner at the battle of -Poitiers)—_azure_, three dexter gauntlets, _or_. These were borne -by the Duke of Cleveland quarterly with those of Fitzroy, being the -royal arms of King Charles II., viz.—one and four France and England -quarterly, two Ireland, three Scotland; the whole debruised by a baton -sinister, componé of six pieces, _ermine_ and _azure_, the supporters -being dexter, a lion guardant, _or_, ducally crowned with a ducal -coronet, _azure_, gorged with a collar counter-componé, _ermine_ and -_azure_; sinister, a greyhound, _argent_, gorged with a collar, -counter-componé, _ermine_ and _azure_, being the supporters of Fitzroy, -Duke of Cleveland, granted to Vane on being advanced to the marquisate -in 1827. Crests: Vane—a dexter arm in a gauntlet grasping a dagger; -Fitzroy—on a chapeau, _gules_, turned up, _ermine_, a lion passant -guardant, _or_, crowned with a ducal coronet, _argent_, and gorged with -a collar, counter-componé, _ermine_ and _azure_. Motto—“Nec temere, -nec timide.” On the assumption of the name and arms of Powlett, the -arms, as now borne by the Duke of Cleveland, are—_sable_, three swords -in pile, points downwards, _proper_, pomels and hilts, _or_. Crest, -on a wreath, a falcon rising, _or_, belled of the last, and ducally -crowned, _gules_. Supporters and motto as before. The arms of the Earl -of Catherlough, which the heir-presumptive is entitled to quarter with -his own of Vane, are—_argent_, three bendlets, _gules_; on a canton, -_azure_, a spur with the rowel downwards, strapped, _or_. Crest, on a -wreath, _argent_ and _gules_, a spur, _or_, between two wings erect, -_gules_. Motto—“Te digna sequere.” - -The Duke of Cleveland is patron of twenty-four livings, thirteen of -which are in Shropshire, one in Northamptonshire, two in Durham, two -in Somersetshire, one in Yorkshire, two in Devonshire, two in Dorset, -and one in Cornwall. His principal seats are Raby Castle, Durham, and -Battle Abbey, Sussex. - -The present castle of Raby, it would appear, was built by John, Lord -Nevil, who died in 1388. In 1379 he had license from Thomas Hatfield, -Bishop of Durham, to crenellate. Whether the old castle was mainly -pulled down and rebuilt by John Nevil, or whether he simply added to -it fresh towers and fortifications, is a matter we have not space, nor -is it necessary to our purpose, to inquire into. That it could not all -have been taken down is, however, pretty evident, as the lozenge-shaped -tower in the centre is said to have been built by Bertram de Bulmer, -or Bolemes, in 1162. The Nevils, who were at the same time Lords of -Raby, Brancepath, Sheriff-Hutton, and Middleham, were all described as -“Dominus de Raby;” and thus it is evident that Raby was their chief -residence and stronghold. - -Raby, says the Rev. Mr. Hodgson (who has done more than any other -antiquary in searching into and elucidating the history of this grand -old pile, and to whom we express our deep obligation for much of the -critical description of the building we are about to give), in its -present state (although some parts of the older edifice were left and -incorporated in it) “presents essentially the work and ideas of one -period,” the fourteenth century. Leland speaks of it as “the largest -castell of logginges in al the north cuntrey, and is of a strong -building, but not set other on the hill or very strong ground;” but he -does not mention the moat, which was probably filled up and the water -drawn off before his time. - -[Illustration: _East Side._] - -The general arrangement of the castle is as follows:—First, the -central nucleus, or castle proper, consisting of a compact mass of -towers connected by short curtains, and of which the block shape may be -described as something between a right-angled triangle and a square, -having the right angle to the south-west. Next, a spacious platform -entirely surrounding this central mass; then a low embattled wall of -enceinte, strengthened by a moat-house, and perhaps a barbican, as -well as by numerous small square bastions rising from its exterior -base; and then the moat. The south front of the castle being so -amply defended by water, its structural defences were naturally less -important. - -[Illustration: _Raby Castle, from the West._] - -Quite unlike the others, it was, with the exception of the flanking -towers at either end, nearly flat. The first, or western of these, -called the Duke’s Tower, is very large and square, and of different -heights, being, in fact, two towers laid together. Considerably in -recess, a rather low curtain connected it with the end of the Great -Hall, which, till lately, rose up tower-like, but without projection. -Beyond, and nearly in a line, came another curtain, short, but lofty; -and then the wedge-like projection of Bulmer’s Tower, which flanked the -whole towards the east. This tower, which commemorates Bertram Bulmer, -one of the Saxon ancestors of the Nevils, by two raised B’s in its -upper story, being of somewhat unusual shape, viz. a pentagon, formed -by the application of an equilateral triangle to a square, has given -rise to comments and conjectures of the wildest sort. An underground -passage, there is little or no doubt, extends from the substructure of -this tower to a small blocked-up doorway in one of the bastions of the -wall of enceinte above the lake, from which, again, there is reason to -think, another traverses its whole length westwards. Passing onwards, -we come to the east or north-east front. This is a very fine work, -extremely bold and vigorous, set thick with towers, and broken by deep -re-entering angles into immense masses. Thoroughly fortress-like and -utilitarian in its character, without the least pretence to ornament, -it is a masterpiece no less of artistic than constructive skill. -Beginning at the south-east angle, we have, in the first place, the -great pentagon of Bulmer’s Tower, and the short curtain spoken of -as connecting it with the Hall, standing out transept-wise from the -latter, and defending it to the east. - -A little farther on, and about midway in its length, the Chapel, with -its substructure terminating in a lofty tower, performs the same -service. Projecting from the lower part of this tower, until destroyed -in modern times, was an advanced portal, the exact nature of which -cannot be particularised. Again, at about an equal distance, a third -transeptal mass, terminating in a tower called Mount Raskelf, stands -out from and protects the Hall. A short high curtain, extending between -the Chapel Tower and this last, forms at the same time the limit of a -small court-yard and a screen to that portion of the Hall which lies -behind it. Mount Raskelf is the angle tower between what are, strictly -speaking, the east and north fronts. Its northern face and curtain fall -back deeply till they join the great square of the Kitchen Tower, which -projects at right angles, and is connected by a strong machicolated -curtain to the east fabric of Clifford’s Tower, by far the largest -in the castle, and of immense strength. This tower is planned with -consummate skill. In shape an oblong square, standing almost detached, -and set diagonally to the north and west fronts, it not only completely -flanks them both, but also, from its close proximity to the Moat-house, -could either lend it effectual aid in case of an assault, or render -it, if captured, utterly untenable. Turning the angle of Clifford’s -Tower, we gain the west front. A strong machicolated curtain, bending -slightly westward, connects it with a lofty tower of slight projection, -and separated by a short wall space from the well-advanced and -diagonally set turrets of the great Gatehouse. A deep recess in the -elevation intervenes between the latter and our starting-point, the -Duke’s Tower, which stands well out again, and terminates the whole. -Passing under the long vault of the great Gatehouse, we reach the -Court-yard. Lofty walls close it in on all sides with very picturesque -and fine effect, the Great Hall lying to the east. A central tower of -beautiful proportion, which stands out at right angles to it, shuts -off a smaller court-yard to the north. There are many points about the -exterior which require careful examination. First as to detail. What -may be considered the typical form of window is very characteristic -and peculiar—a single square-topped light, with a rounded trefoil -in the head, the eye of which is either sunk or pierced. It is very -domestic, and has an excellent effect. In Clifford’s Tower they -are superimposed. The windows of the Chapel, which, though good in -themselves, are of an ordinary form, square-headed, with net tracery, -raise an important and interesting question, viz. What is their -probable date, and can we possibly assign them to what may fairly -be called the time of the builder of the great Gatehouse? Now the -Chapel, which is unquestionably the earliest part of the castle, and -thoroughly fortress-like in character, determines by its date the -period when the general work of reconstruction and fortifying began. In -the Moat Tower, above segmental, circular, and depressed four-centred -arches, we have on the summit concave, shoulder-arched doorways of -wonderfully pure and early-looking character. The side-windows of the -Great Hall, again—pairs of long lancets set closely together, and -without hood-moulds—though Transition or Early Perpendicular in date, -are almost Early English in composition. We need feel no very great -surprise, therefore, if in the Chapel we find a type adopted which -was generally expiring. An examination of the masonry on either hand -of the great Gate Tower will show that an extensive alteration was -made in that part of the castle. It would seem that the face of the -original Gatehouse, which probably stood midway between the back and -front of the present one, just about where the inner doorway spans -the passage, was taken down, and the whole structure brought forward -as we see it. The roof proves this almost to demonstration. Within -the central archway, towards the Court-yard, it is a simple barrel -vault, strengthened with plain chamfered ribs. Without it, where -the passage-way widens, it is a well-moulded, beautiful lierne, the -ribs producing, perhaps intentionally, the Nevil saltire four times -repeated. At the same time the short curtain which connected the old -Gatehouse with the tower to the north was advanced level with the -face of the latter, and the western half of the Duke’s Tower, already -described as a double one, added, so as to flank the front, which now, -instead of having a salient angle in the centre, as at first, was, -so to say, made square. The outer entrance of the Gatehouse is very -fine. Its boldly moulded four-centred arch is surmounted by a second -of the same contour, but richly cusped and trefoiled. Above it are -three shields, each surrounded with the garter. They are—1st, Nevil; -2nd, St. George; 3rd, Latimer; and fix certainly the erection of this -Gatehouse, though it looks so much later, between 1382—the probable -date of John Nevil’s second marriage with Elizabeth Latimer—and his -death in 1389. - -Another most noticeable point about the work is the entire absence of -buttresses. Every tower and curtain stands in its own unaided strength. -The great diversities of design, especially as seen in the towers, -should also be noticed. Without the least approach to affectation or -extravagance in any, yet of all the nine included in the central group -there are no two which bear the faintest resemblance to each other—the -variety and beauty of proportion in its parts, and the admirable way -in which they are combined, producing, as they did once, a sky-line -perhaps unmatched in England, are really the glories of the castle. A -perfect simplicity and directness of purpose, with infinite change and -play of line, characterize the building throughout, and stamp it as the -work of a master. - -Modern alterations have so obscured and destroyed John Nevil’s work in -the interior that there is little of it left to see. Still there is -something. Leland, who mentions it, says, “The Haul and al the Houses -of Offices be large and stately. The Great Chaumber was exceeding -large, but now it is fals rofid and divided into two or three partes.” -Now if by the “Haul” and “Great Chaumber” he refers to the same -thing, which internal evidence seems to show he must, then the worthy -itinerant was entirely mistaken. “A recent investigation, accompanied -by a vigorous use of the pick, has shown me,” says Mr. Hodgson, “that -the Hall, as its external appearance indicates, was always, from -the very first, a double one, consisting, that is, of two halls of -nearly equal height, one above the other. About ten feet below the -present floor I came upon the line of the old one, which had been of -wood carried on pillars (whence, perhaps, the mistake of being ‘fals -rofid’), the mutilated remains of the great fire-place, and three -doorways, all of which I partially opened out. The upper, or Baron’s -Hall, called so, perhaps, to distinguish it from the lower, was a noble -room. Ranges of long narrow transomed windows lighted it on each side, -as well as two large traceried ones of three lights to the south, and -another to the north. The roof, a very fine one of oak, was carried -on cambered beams, each displaying the saltire on its centre. These -were the ordinary arrangements. Extending the full width of the north -end was a lofty stone music gallery, with arch cornice. In advance -of it the screens, behind which, and leading to the Kitchen, Pantry, -and Buttery, were once most likely the usual three doorways, but of -these, owing to mutilations, I could only find one. At either end of -the passage was a large arched doorway. One of these opened upon a -staircase close to the Chapel door, the other upon the roof of a sort -of cloister in the Great Court, which must have formed a promenade, and -of which also I have found the traces. Platforms of this sort, carried -on arches, and occupying an exactly similar position, occur in the -castles of Coucy and Creil.” - -The Kitchen, though it has a certain air of rudeness, and has lost its -ancient fire-place, is still a very interesting relic, and one of the -most perfect things in the castle. It occupies the whole interior of a -large strong square tower. The windows, which have stepped sills, are -set high up in the walls, and are connected by a perforated passage -of defence provided with garde-robes, which runs all round. Two pairs -of very strong vaulting ribs, intersecting in the centre, carry the -louvre, which is of stone and of immense size. The lower part, twelve -feet square, rises to upwards of the same height above the leads, and -is surmounted by an octagon fifteen feet higher still. Externally it -forms a very striking and effective feature. Below the Kitchen a cellar -of the same shape and size has a well-groined vaulted roof carried -on a central pillar. Another to the east, which has a large double -fire-place at one end, has a strongly ribbed circular segmental vault. -All the first-floor chambers of the west front, including Clifford’s -Tower, have plain barrel vaults. The lower chamber of Bulmer’s Tower -had till lately a richly groined vault of great strength and beauty. -The Hall Tower has both its lower stories vaulted; the first ribbed, -the second plain. The whole of this tower, inside and out, has been -wonderfully preserved. Vaults, windows, grilles, doorways, stairs, -garde-robes, all are nearly intact, and will bear careful examination. -It is really the most perfect thing in the place. The Chapel, all -mutilated as it is, still deserves notice. The Sanctuary, which forms -the central portion of a tower, has a boldly ribbed quadripartite -vault. Above it is a guard-chamber. Its exterior window, above the -eastern one of the Chapel, is marked by a very remarkable little -hanging machicoulis. - -[Illustration: _Raby Castle, West Side._] - -The entrance to Raby is by the Porter’s Lodge in the north-west portion -of the embattled outer wall. In this Lodge are found some family -relics; among others, the sword worn by Lord Barnard, son of the first -Earl of Darlington, at the battle of Fontenoy, where a bullet, striking -his sword, broke it, and then, glancing off, disabled its wearer. The -Gateway is flanked by two towers, each of which is surmounted by a -figure of a mail clad warrior. - -The main entrance to the castle itself is on the west side, between -two towers. It is a long passage, with groined roof and traces of -portcullis; and carriages drive through this passage into the -Quadrangle, or Court-yard. Crossing this, and facing the main entrance -just alluded to, is the enormous doorway opening into the Great or -Entrance Hall. Through this doorway the carriages literally drive into -the mansion, and there set down the guests in the Hall itself, which -is of great size, with an arched roof, supported by eight octagonal -pillars in its centre. “When the brilliant gas above combines its glare -with that of two enormous fires, and the roof is echoing to the tramp -of horses and the roll of wheels, the visitor cannot but be struck -with the unusual entrance,” says a recent writer. In this Hall is hung -Turner’s famous picture of Raby Castle. - -Above this Great Hall is the famous Baron’s Hall immortalised by -Wordsworth, where - - “Seven hundred knights, retainers all - Of Neville, at the muster’s call, - Had sate together in Raby’s hall.” - -This Hall, which is 126 feet long by 36 feet broad, is ceiled with -oak and contains a large number of family portraits; also “Interior -of an Artist’s Studio,” by Teniers, and portraits of Queen Elizabeth, -Cromwell, James II., and Frederick, Prince of Wales. The south end -of the room is modern, being built over the Octagon Drawing-room. A -staircase leads from the Baron’s Hall to the Chapel, renovated by the -second duke. Some of the windows are filled with stained glass by -Wailes; others with old German glass. The Chapel contains Murillo’s -“St. Catherine” and “The Saviour bearing the Cross.” - -In most of the apartments of the castle are many fine pictures, -portraits and others, among which are the Duke of Cleveland, son of -Charles II.; Barbara Villiers, Duchess of Cleveland; Lady Barnard, wife -of Christopher, Lord Barnard; Harry, second Duke of Cleveland, in his -Garter robes; and the first Duke of Cleveland in his uniform as Colonel -of the Durham Militia. The Octagon Drawing-room, built by the second -duke, is, in all its details, a most elaborate and highly finished -apartment. The furniture is elegant. In this room is Hiram Powers’ -celebrated statue of the “Greek Slave,” purchased by the second Duke of -Cleveland for £1,800. - -The Kitchen is a fine specimen of mediæval architecture, and is -evidence of the lavish hospitality of a former age. “The enormous oven -would have baked bread for an army, and is described by Pennant as -being, in his time, used as a wine-cellar, ‘the sides being divided -into two parts, and each part holding a hogshead of wine in bottles.’” - -It is not necessary for us to enter further into the details of the -interior arrangements of the castle. All we need say is, that the rooms -are fitted and furnished with all the appliances of Art which might be -expected in the home of so enlightened and so liberal-minded a nobleman -as his Grace the Duke of Cleveland. - -Staindrop, closely adjoining Raby Park, is an interesting town, whose -Church contains many monuments to members of the noble families of -Nevil and Vane. The Church was restored in 1849. Among the monuments, -perhaps the most interesting are an altar-tomb, with recumbent -effigies, to Ralph Nevil, Earl of Westmoreland, and his two wives, -Margaret, daughter to Hugh, Earl of Stafford, and Joan, daughter to -John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster; and a monument in wood, with effigies -of Henry, fifth Earl of Westmoreland (1564), and his two wives. There -is also a magnificent white marble altar-tomb to the first Duke of -Cleveland, by Westmacott, the recumbent figure on which is beautifully -executed. In the chancel there is a monument, of exquisite design, in -the purest white marble, in memory of Sophia, Duchess of Cleveland -(wife of the second duke), who died in 1859. Within the altar-rails are -other monuments, including those of Henry, second Earl of Darlington, -who died in 1792; Margaret, Countess of Darlington, who died in 1800; -and Katharine Margaret, Countess of Darlington, who died in 1807. There -are also stained-glass windows in memory of Henry, second Duke of -Cleveland; one erected by the friends and tenants of the Duke, and the -other by Lady Augusta Powlett, his sister-in-law. A monumental brass of -chaste design, on the north side of the Church, preserves the memory of -William, third Duke of Cleveland. North of the Church is a Mausoleum, -erected by the second Duke of Cleveland, in which the remains of the -Duke and other members of the family repose. - - - - -CLIEFDEN. - - -OUR notice of “charming Cliefden” must necessarily be brief; not -because the “Stately Home” itself lacks of stateliness, of beauty, of -grandeur, or of interest; not because the episodes in its history are -“few and far between,” or devoid of incident; not because its glorious -situation and its picturesque surroundings present few features for the -pen to dwell upon, and the poetic or artistic mind to linger over; and -not because the genealogies of the families to which it has belonged -will not vie both in point of antiquity, in fame, and in noble and -illustrious actions with others; but simply because the space at our -disposal will admit only of words where we would gladly have written -paragraphs. In interest, in beauty, and picturesque surroundings, -Cliefden will bear favourable comparison with most others of our -series, while it yields to none in the loveliness, the romantic beauty, -and the attractiveness of its situation. To take only a cursory glance -at such a place is like peeping in at the door of a picture gallery, -without having time to note any of the treasures spread on its walls. - -Cliefden, now one of the seats of his Grace the Duke of Westminster, -is situated in Buckinghamshire, and overlooks the river Thames in its -most attractive part. It is to Cliefden that the river here owes its -chief loveliness, but it is also to the river that Cliefden is indebted -for one of its principal attractions. From the Berkshire side of the -Thames the woods and the mansion form a magnificent scene, but it is -from the bosom of the stream that its beauties are best understood -and most enjoyed. “Cliefden runs along the summit of a lofty ridge -which overhangs the river. The outline of this ridge is broken in the -most agreeable way; the steep bank is covered with luxuriant foliage, -forming a hanging wood of great beauty, or in parts bare, so as to -increase the gracefulness of the foliage by the contrast; and the whole -bank has run into easy-flowing curves at the bidding of the noble -stream which washes its base. A few islands deck this part of the -river, and occasionally little tongues of land run out into it, or a -tree overhangs it, helping to give vigour to the foreground of the rich -landscape. From the summit the views are really magnificent; both up -and down the river they are of surpassing beauty. Looking over Windsor, -the eye ranges far away till it loses itself in the hazy distance, to -which the royal pile gives an aërial grace, while it adds majesty to -the whole view. Looking up the river towards Hedsor the charming seat -of Lord Boston, we have a prospect little less splendid, though of -a different character. A vast extent of country lies at one’s feet, -covered with dense wooded tracts, from which ever and anon peeps up an -old grey tower; and the blue smoke marks a secluded village, while the -glorious river winds away like a broad stream of molten silver.” The -immediate grounds, whether Thamesward or landward, are well laid out, -and present at every turn spots of beauty and loveliness not excelled -elsewhere. - -[Illustration: _Cliefden._] - -Speaking of the river scenery about Cliefden, Mr. Hall, in his “Book -of the Thames,” says, “Those who accuse our great island river of -insipidity, who, if they concede its claims to beauty, deny its -pretensions to grandeur, will do well to row beneath the thick -woods of Taplow and Cliefden, and, looking up, they will have no -difficulty in imagining themselves in one of the grandest and richest, -in picturesque attractions, of our English lakes; indeed, they will -require only the near and distant mountains to fancy themselves under -the heights of Glena, in all-beautiful Killarney. Well may we rejoice -to scan the charms of our glorious river, and ask the aid of Poetry -and Art to give them fame and power. But the painter will fail here. -He may select graceful nooks, and a thousand objects will, singly or -in groups, present themselves as fitting subjects for his pencil; -but he cannot convey to the eye and mind a just idea of the mingled -grandeur and beauty of this delicious locality; while the poet will -find only themes which have been, ever and everywhere, the chosen and -the favoured of his order. Those who row past these charming woods, -and note what has been done by taste, in association with wealth, to -render every part delightful, ascend any of the heights and examine the -‘prospect,’ near or distant, their enjoyment will be largely enhanced. -It is impossible, indeed, to exaggerate the beauty and harmony of the -foliage which everywhere surrounds us:— - - ‘Beautiful in various dyes, - The gloomy pine, the poplar blue, - The yellow beech, the sable yew, - The slender fir that taper grows. - The sturdy oak with broad-spread boughs; - And, beyond., the purple grove. - Haunt of Phyllis—Queen of Love!’ - -But there are here hundreds of other trees which the poet could -not commemorate, for they were unknown in England in his time. All -climes and countries have contributed to the wealth of foliage at -Cliefden—woods, lawns, and gardens are enriched by tributes from -every land to which enterprise has conducted British science to gather -treasures converted from exotics into subjects naturalised and ‘at -home.’” - -Cliefden formerly belonged to the ancient family of Manfeld, of -Buckinghamshire, from whom it was purchased by the infamously -profligate George Villiers, second Duke of Buckingham, who built the -mansion, and expended large sums of money in laying out the grounds and -planting them with all the rarities of arboriculture he could procure. -He employed Archer, the architect, to design and erect the mansion, and -to adorn the grounds with alcoves and other buildings of a like nature. - -[Illustration: _The Thames at Cliefden._] - -The house was a commanding square structure, of three stories in -height, besides the terrace (440 feet long), and it had wings connected -with the main building by a colonnade. It was built of red brick, with -stone dressings. He furnished it in a sumptuous manner, and hung its -walls with fine tapestry and valuable pictures. Here the Duke brought -his mistress, the Countess of Shrewsbury, and here gave full bent to -his licentious habits. Thus Cliefden gained an unenviable notoriety, -and has been immortalised in song and in prose:— - - “Gallant and gay, in Cliefden’s proud alcove, - The bower of wanton Shrewsbury and love.” - -In 1667-8 the Duke had taken part in a singular triple duel about the -Countess, and had mortally wounded her husband by running him through -the body. Pepys thus wrote of this duel:—“January 17th. Much discourse -of the duell yesterday between the Duke of Buckingham, Holmes, and -one Jenkins, on one side, and my Lord of Shrewsbury, Sir John Talbot, -and one Bernard Howard, on the other side: and all about my Lady -Shrewsbury, who is at this time, and hath for a great while been, a -mistress to the Duke of Buckingham. And so her husband challenged him, -and they met yesterday in a close near Barne-Elmes, and there fought: -and my Lord Shrewsbury is run through the body, from the right breast -through the shoulder; and Sir John Talbot all along up one of his -armes; and Jenkins killed upon the place, and the rest all in a little -measure wounded. - -[Illustration: _Cliefden: the Cottage._] - -This will make the world think that the King hath good counsellors -about him, when the Duke of Buckingham, the greatest man about him, -is a fellow of no more sobriety than to fight about a mistress. And -this may prove a very bad accident to the Duke of Buckingham, but that -my Lady Castlemaine do rule all at this time as much as ever she did, -and she will, it is believed, keep all matters well with the Duke of -Buckingham; though this is a time that the King will be very backward, -I suppose, to appear in such a business. And it is pretty to hear how -the King had some notice of this challenge a week or two ago, and did -give it to my Lord Generall to confine the Duke, or take security that -he should not do any such thing as fight: and the Generall trusted to -the King that he, sending for him, would do it; and the King trusted -to the Generall. And it is said that my Lord Shrewsbury’s case is to -be feared that he may die too: and that may make it much worse for the -Duke of Buckingham: and I shall not be much sorry for it, that we may -have some sober man come in his room to assist in the Government.” - -[Illustration: _Cliefden: the Summer Cottage._] - -The Countess of Shrewsbury (the Duke’s mistress), who was Anna Maria, -daughter of Robert, Earl of Cardigan, is said to have held the Duke’s -horse, habited as a page, while the duel was being fought, and that -she thus not only saw her husband mortally wounded, but then went -home with the murderer, where she took him to her arms “in the shirt -covered with her husband’s blood.” The Duke was married to the Hon. -Mary Fairfax, daughter and heiress of Lord Fairfax, the Parliamentary -general—a woman of pure tastes and faultless habits—whom he -shamefully neglected. Pepys, under date the 15th of May, 1668, says, “I -am told also that the Countesse of Shrewsbury is brought home by the -Duke [the Earl had died of his wounds in March] of Buckingham to his -house, where his Duchesse, saying that it was not for her and the other -to live together in a house, he answered, ‘_Why, madam, I did think so, -and therefore have ordered your coach to be ready to carry you to your -father’s_;’ which was a devilish speech, but, they say, true; and my -Lady Shrewsbury is there, it seems.” - -Large as was the income of the Duke, his profligacy, extravagance, and -immoralities so swallowed it up that he did not complete Cliefden, and -died in wretchedness; and but for the timely help of Lord Arran, a -few days before his decease, in abject poverty and loneliness. “There -is not,” wrote Lord Arran, “so much as one farthing towards defraying -the least expense;” and Pope, in one of his epistles to Lord Bathurst, -remarks— - - “Behold! what blessings wealth to life can lend, - And see what comforts it affords our end! - In the worst inn’s worst room, with mat half-hung, - The floors of plaster, and the walls of dung, - On once a flock bed, but repaired with straw, - With tape-tied curtains, never meant to draw, - The George and Garter dangling from that bed, - Where tawdry yellow strove with dirty red, - Great Villiers lies—alas! how changed from him, - That life of pleasure, and that soul of whim, - Gallant and gay in Cliefden’s proud alcove, - Tho bower of wanton Shrewsbury and love; - Or just as gay at council in a ring - Of mimick’d statesmen and their merry king. - No wit to flatter, left off all his store; - No fool to laugh at, which he valued more; - There victor of his health, of fortune, friends, - And fame, this lord of useless thousands ends.” - -Soon after the Duke’s death all his property, being deeply mortgaged, -was sold, but did not realise enough to pay his debts; and dying -without issue, “his titles, which had been undeservedly conferred on -his father, and only disgraced by himself, became extinct.” - -Cliefden was purchased by Lord George Hamilton (fifth son of the Duke -of Hamilton), who was created Baron Dechemont of Linlithgow, Viscount -Kirkwall of Orkney, and Earl of Orkney, in 1696. His lordship completed -the mansion, and did much towards beautifying the grounds. Dying -without male issue in 1737, his eldest daughter, Anne, became Countess -of Orkney, and succeeded to the Cliefden estate. She, however, did -not reside here, but let it to H.R.H. Frederick, Prince of Wales, -father of King George III., who for many years made it his summer -residence. Here, at Cliefden, on the 1st of August, 1740, was first -performed Thomson and Mallet’s masque of _Alfred_, in which occurs -the ever-famous and patriotic “ode in honour of Great Britain,” “Rule -Britannia”— - - “When Britain first, at Heav’n’s command, - Arose from out the azure main”— - -the music of which was composed by Dr. Arne. It was, therefore, within -the walls of Cliefden that “Rule Britannia” was first heard, and this -gives it a literary interest of no small note. The masque in which -it formed so prominent a feature was prepared and given at Cliefden, -to commemorate the accession to the throne, in 1714, of King George -I. (grandfather of Frederick, Prince of Wales), and in honour of the -third birthday of his daughter, the young Princess Augusta. It was -repeated the following night, and soon became the most popular of all -compositions. - -In 1795 the mansion (it is traditionally said through the carelessness -of a maid-servant reading a novel in bed) was totally destroyed by -fire, the wings, at some distance from the main building, being alone -saved; while nearly all the sumptuous furniture, pictures, and tapestry -were devoured by the flames. The estate was afterwards purchased by Sir -George Warrender, by whom the mansion, which had been left in ruins -since the fire, was rebuilt in 1830. After his death the estate was -sold by Sir George’s executors to his Grace the Duke of Sutherland, -and on the 15th of November, 1849 (the day of thanksgiving for the -cessation of the cholera), only a few months after its purchase, it was -again burned down. - -In the following year, 1850, the Duke of Sutherland set about -rebuilding the mansion on a scale of princely magnificence, and having -engaged the services of Barry as architect, the present pile soon rose -from the ruins of the former buildings. The “centre portion, which is -a revival of the design for old Somerset House, now extends to the -wings, which, together with the terrace, are made to harmonize with -the new building.” The house and grounds, like Trentham, owe much of -their beauty and loveliness to the good taste of the Duke and Duchess, -the latter of whom, when a dowager, made it one of her favourite -residences. The interior of this “Stately Home” needs no particular -description. The rooms are, of course, one and all sumptuously -furnished with all the appliances of wealth and taste, and are lavish -in their attractions. It is truly a “home of beauty and of taste.” - -Cliefden passed from the Duke of Sutherland to his daughter, the Lady -Constance Leveson-Gower, married to the present Duke of Westminster, -whose property this splendid domain is. - -[Illustration: _The Principal Front._] - -The family of Grosvenor, of which the present owner of Cliefden is -the illustrious head, is one of high antiquity, tracing, as it does, -in England, from the Norman conquest, when his grace’s ancestor came -over with William the Conqueror. The principal line of the Grosvenors -was seated at Hulme, in the hundred of Northwich, in Cheshire, and was -descended in direct line from Gilbert le Grosvenour, nephew of Hugh -Lupus, the Norman Earl Palatine of Chester, whom he accompanied to this -country. The name, it is said, was derived from _le Gros Venour_, from -the family having held the hereditary post of chief huntsman to the -Dukes of Normandy. This main line was extinct in the twenty-second year -of the reign of Henry VI., the line being continued by Ralph Grosvenor, -second son of Sir Thomas Grosvenor, of Hulme. He married Joan Eaton, -daughter and sole heiress of John Eaton, of Eaton, or Eton, in -Cheshire, Esq., early in the fifteenth century. In 1621-2 a baronetcy -was conferred on the representative of the family; and in 1676, Sir -Thomas Grosvenor having married Mary, sole daughter and heiress of -Alexander Davies, of Ebury, in the county of Middlesex, Esq., laid the -foundation of the immense wealth and rapidly increasing honours of the -Grosvenors. - -In 1761 the then baronet, Sir Richard Grosvenor, was elevated to the -peerage by the title of Baron Grosvenor of Eaton, in Cheshire, and -in 1781 was advanced to the titles of Viscount Belgrave and Earl -Grosvenor. He married Henrietta, daughter of Henry Vernon, Esq., by -whom he had issue an only son, Robert Grosvenor. The Earl died in 1802, -and was succeeded by his son, Robert Grosvenor, as second earl. - -This nobleman was born in 1767, and married, in 1794, the Lady Eleanor -Egerton, daughter of the first Earl of Wilton, by whom he had issue his -successor, Lord Richard, who became third earl and second marquis; Lord -Thomas, who became Earl of Wilton; and Lord Robert, M.P. In 1831 Earl -Grosvenor was advanced to the dignity of a marquis, by the title of -Marquis of Westminster being conferred upon him. He died in 1845, and -was succeeded by his eldest son— - -Richard, second Marquis of Westminster and third Earl Grosvenor. -He was born in 1795, and in 1819 married the Lady Elizabeth Mary -Leveson-Gower, second daughter of the first Duke of Sutherland, and by -her had issue a family of four sons and nine daughters. His lordship, -dying in 1869, was succeeded by his eldest son, the present peer, Hugh -Lupus Grosvenor, in all his titles and estates, who, in 1874, was -created Duke of Westminster. - -The present noble head of this illustrious family, his Grace, Hugh -Lupus, first Duke and third Marquis of Westminster, Earl Grosvenor, -Viscount Belgrave, Baron Grosvenor of Eaton, a Baronet, and a Knight -of the Garter, was born on the 13th of October, 1825, and succeeded -his father in 1869. His grace was educated at Eton and at Balliol -College, Oxford, and represented Chester in Parliament from 1847 to -1869, when he entered the Upper House. In 1852 his grace, then Marquis -of Westminster, married his cousin, the Lady Constance Leveson-Gower, -daughter of the second Duke of Sutherland, and sister of the present -noble owner of Trentham. By this union his grace has issue, living, -five sons and three daughters. These are—Victor Alexander, by courtesy -Marquis of Westminster, to whom (born in 1853) her Majesty the Queen -stood sponsor in person, who married, in 1874, the Lady Sibell Mary -Lumley, daughter of the Earl of Scarborough, by whom he has issue, and -is heir to the titles and estates; Lord Arthur Hugh Grosvenor, born in -1863; Lord Henry George Grosvenor, born in 1864; Lord Robert Edward -Grosvenor, born in 1869; Lord Gerald Richard Grosvenor, born in 1874; -the Lady Elizabeth Harriet, born in 1856; the Lady Beatrice Constance, -born in 1858; and the Lady Margaret Evelyn, born in 1873. - -The Duke of Westminster is patron of eleven livings, four of which are -London churches; and his seats are Eaton Hall, Cheshire; Cliefden, -Buckinghamshire; Halkin, Flintshire; and the mansion in Upper Grosvenor -Street. - -The ancient arms of the Grosvenors, settled in the famous Scrope and -Grosvenor trial in the fourteenth century, were claimed to be _azure_, -a bend, _or_; but these were declared to belong to Scrope. Sir Richard -Grosvenor then, after the trial, assumed the arms _azure_, a garb, -_or_, as showing his descent from the ancient Earls of Chester. On -or after the creation of the marquisate of Westminster the arms of -that city were granted as an augmentation, and ordered to be borne -quarterly with those of Grosvenor. The arms now are—quarterly, first -and fourth, _azure_, a portcullis with chains pendent, _or_; on a chief -of the last, in pale, the arms of King Edward the Confessor, between -two united roses of York and Lancaster (being the arms of the city of -Westminster); second and third, _azure_, a garb, _or_, for Grosvenor. -Crest—a talbot statant, _or_. Supporters—two talbots reguardant, -_or_, collared, _azure_. Motto—“Virtus non stemma.” - -The glorious grounds of Cliefden have been pleasantly discoursed upon -by many writers, but by none more graphically or technically than in -a brief notice in the _Garden_, which to some extent we cannot do -better than quote. Cliefden, “the birthplace of spring gardening,” he -says, “well maintains the high character it has so long and deservedly -received for the beauty of its early flowers, its banks full of wild -hyacinths, primroses, and forget-me-nots; its closely shaven lawns -so overspread with wild thyme that every footstep brushes up its -fragrance; and, above all, its flower-beds brimful of spring beauty, -which in turn give place to summer bedding plants. Looking from the -terrace on the lawn, a huge sunken panel with flower-beds proportionate -in size on either side of it, the floral display when we saw it was -magnificent. - -[Illustration: _The Summer House._] - -Brilliant pink, supplied by a large circle of _Silene pendula -compacta_, set in emerald green, was conspicuous in the distance; -nearer were lavender and blue, furnished by _Nepeta cærulea_ and -forget-me-nots; buff, by _Limnanthes Douglasi_; golden yellow, by -_Lasthenia Californica_; and crimson, by the old China rose of that -colour and rhododendrons. Other colours, too, were equally striking, -and these only a secondary display, that earlier and brighter being -made by early tulips. The plan is, when the tulips are planted, to -cover the surface of the beds with annuals, sown in July and August, -and transplanted when the bulbs are put in. These commence flowering -when the tulips are over, and remain in beauty until the bedding plants -are planted out. Vasefuls of Tom Thumb pelargoniums stand on the -grass near the walk at the base of the terrace wall, close to which -is a ribbon border bright with pansies, for which Cliefden is justly -celebrated; and right and left are gardens of early flowers, arranged -on the one hand in the form of a huge shell, and on the other in beds -on the grass that have been bright all the season with spring flowers -in great beauty. But, brilliant as the floral display on the dressed -ground undoubtedly has been, and soon will be again, it cannot arrest -attention long. The eye is naturally carried beyond it to the wood-clad -hills and dales, the rich meadows, and the river Thames, at this season -alive with water-parties from Maidenhead and pleasure-boats of every -description. These form the foreground, as it were, to a landscape -unmatched for picturesque beauty, its distant boundary being the Surrey -hills on the one hand, and the Chilterns, in Buckinghamshire, on the -other. - -“Vistas, too, have been cut here and there through the trees, so as -to bring into view the water or some more distant object of interest. -By reclaiming pieces of land here and there from the river, a wide -and agreeable promenade has been formed along its bank, overhung at -intervals by stately trees, consisting of beech, ash, and elm, with -here and there a tulip-tree and scarlet chestnut. This is reached -from the plateau above, on which the mansion stands, by means of -winding walks and flights of rustic steps, through what may be -termed a gigantic wild garden, consisting of ancient yews, whose -hold on mother earth is but small, their roots—weather-beaten and -weird-looking—being half out of the ground, and tangled brushwood, -fantastically overrun in places with honeysuckle and traveller’s -joy. Here, too, even on the chalk, are masses of ferns, and nearer -the river-side a very fine Judas-tree, clumps of pampas grass, -mulberry-coloured hazels, and other flowering and fine-leaved subjects, -while in spring every open space is a garden of wild flowers. - -“Let us now return to the entrance front of the mansion. This has been -strikingly improved, by removing the old kitchen garden, and laying -its site down in grass as level as a bowling-green, cut off from its -surroundings right and left by newly built walls, and in front by a -thick yew hedge, still kept in vigour by means of good root treatment. -These, with the mansion, enclose a spacious quadrangle, on the side -of which farthest from the windows are large vases; these in early -spring are gay with tulips, and later in the season with annuals, the -most effective of which is _Silene pendula compacta_ in masses of rosy -blossoms. On the walls, which are covered with climbing and other wall -plants, are rare roses, and honeysuckles in profusion. In another part -is a rose hedge, consisting of Fellenberg, a kind not very full when -open, but excellent in the bud state for table decoration. - -“Shut out from view of the mansion by these walls are the glasshouses, -a conservatory being on the one side, and the forcing-houses on the -other—all new, and arranged with consummate skill and forethought, -as regards saving of labour: the whole, with the exception of the -conservatory, are built in parallel lines right and left of a central -pathway, under which are the hot-water pipes, a glass-covered corridor -running round the whole, and binding them, as it were, together. Close -to them are the offices and young men’s rooms, the latter built in a -style and furnished with appliances such as are to be found in but few -gardens. Grapes, peaches, and other tender fruits are grown here in -perfection, and among other things we noticed a houseful of tree, or -perpetual, carnations in flower, a brilliant sight—the blooms being -abundant, large, and fragrant. The extension system of vine-growing -is that which is most in favour here. In one vinery—an old one, -sixty feet long—one vine has been allowed to fill the house; it is -in excellent condition, and is carrying some two hundred bunches of -promising fruit. Near here, too, is a glass corridor, the roof of which -is covered with an aged fuchsia of the corallina kind; several other -varieties have been grafted on it, all of which are literally masses -of flower, and most effective, owing to the contrast produced by their -different colours. Ivies, grown in zinc boxes and trained on trellises -for indoor screens, are here out of doors in the shade. These fit -into ornamental trays, and when taken indoors have a pelargonium or -nasturtium, or some other flowering plant plunged in the box in front -of them. - -“The conservatory is fifty-six yards in length and twelve yards in -width, and span-roofed, the spans being placed at right angles with the -wall against which it is built. It is in two divisions, but so arranged -that both can be thrown into one, which, when lighted up at night -(which it is on certain occasions) has a fine effect. It is as gay as -a house of the kind can well be—arum lilies, as they are called, being -especially good and conspicuous. Among the more arborescent vegetation -which it contains are oranges, carrying heavy crops of ripe fruit, -and a vigorous specimen of _Abutilon Boule de Neige_, loaded with -drooping white bell-shaped flowers, which, when inverted in bouquets -with the stamens removed, have a charming effect. Against the back wall -is _Lantana mutabilis_, quite a mass of variously coloured flowers, -exhibiting, in fact, a luxuriance of blossom wholly unattainable by -plants in pots. - -“With the noble entrance to Cliefden most people are familiar. It -consists of a straight avenue of dimensions commensurate with the -palatial residence to which it leads. This remains as it always has -been; but the approach in connection with it has of late been greatly -altered and improved. On the one side we have natural wood intermixed -with flowering shrubs and trees; and on the other, here and there -glades of grass pleasantly undulated, and furnished with clumps of -rhododendrons and azaleas—some near, some distant, but all effectively -planted, and more or less over-canopied with lofty trees, chiefly -beeches, whose stems rise for an unusual height clear of branches. -A large stagnant pond, by which the road passes, has been drained, -filled up, and converted into a grassy lawn, one side of which hugs -the approach for a considerable distance, while the other loses itself -in the wood on the other side of the valley. Vistas, too, have been -judiciously cut through the trees where the planting and views are most -beautiful, thus rendering this portion of the grounds by no means the -least interesting feature of Cliefden. - -“Of the kitchen garden we have said nothing; nor of the miles of green -drives, in summer shady and pleasant, with which the woods abound; -nor of the indoor fruit-growing, which is excellent; but enough has -been said to show that Cliefden, since it has become the property of -the Duke of Westminster, has been greatly improved, both as regards -its buildings and its gardens, and is now one of the most charming of -seats.” - - - - -WARNHAM COURT. - - -WE have chosen Warnham Court to form one of our present series, not -because it is, strictly speaking, a “_Stately_ Home,” nor because -its history is a stirring one, or the family to whom it belongs can -boast of high antiquity in descent, or of nobility in extraction; -but simply because it is a good and pleasing and fine example of a -modern Elizabethan home, the characteristic features of which have -been made suitable for the tastes and requirements of the present day. -Its beauties are manifold, but they are purely of that quiet domestic -character that is utterly opposed to ostentation and show, and that -give it an air of comfort possessed by but few of its more pretentious -neighbours. - -Sussex is a county of “many mansions,” and they are as varied in their -style and their architectural character as they are in the periods in -which they have been erected; but few can, out of the whole, compare -with Warnham Court in pleasantness of situation, in beauty of external -surroundings, or in comfort of internal arrangements. It is a house -fitted for hospitality, and for the enjoyment of the guests its owner -delights to have around him. - -Warnham Court lies near the village of Warnham, which is about three -miles from Horsham, and it has a station on the Horsham line of the -London, Brighton, and South Coast Railway. The village—and a pretty -Sussex village it is—consists mainly of one long street, running north -and south, and it has many pleasant residences in its neighbourhood. -The Church, dedicated to St. Margaret, is of Norman foundation, but was -enlarged and altered in 1848. It consists of “a nave, with north and -south aisles, with three chancels, the north of these latter portions -being divided from the south aisle by a fine Gothic oak screen. It -has a square embattled tower, with clock and six bells. The interior -contains several monuments” to the Carills and others. - -[Illustration: _Distant View from the Lake._] - -The Court was built in the Elizabethan style, in place of an older -house, in the beginning of this century, by Henry Tredcroft, Esq., -of Horsham—a fine old Sussex squire—and, at his death, was sold -to Sir Thomas Pelley, Bart., who made it his residence. The whole -estate passed, by purchase, from the executors of Sir Henry Pelley, -in 1866, to its present owner, Charles T. Lucas, Esq., the head -of the well-known firm of Lucas Brothers, the eminent builders -and contractors. By Mr. Lucas the house has been remodelled and -considerably enlarged, its Elizabethan character being, however, -carefully preserved in every detail. He has also built new stabling, -lodges, gardener’s house, terraces, garden appliances, &c., at a very -large outlay, which, however, has been most judiciously expended. - -Mr. Lucas, who is the eldest son of the late James Lucas, Esq., was -born in 1820, and in 1840 was married to Miss Tiffin, by whom he -has, with other issue, a son, Charles James Lucas, born in 1853, -and educated at Harrow. Mr. Lucas is Lord of the Manor of Warnham, -a governor of Christ’s Hospital, and a magistrate for the county of -Surrey. He is brother to his partner, Thomas Lucas, Esq., of Eastwicke -Park, Surrey, who was born in 1822, and in 1852 married Mary Amelia, -daughter of Robert Chamberlain, Esq., of Cotton Hall, Norfolk, by whom, -with other issue, he has a son, Arthur Charles Lucas, born in 1853, and -educated at Harrow: he is a J.P. and D.L. for Suffolk, and a magistrate -for Middlesex and Westminster. Both are gentlemen highly esteemed and -honoured, and few are more thoroughly entitled to the lofty positions -to which, by honourable industry, great ability, and high character, -they have attained. - -The arms of the family of Lucas are—party per bend, _gules_ and -_argent_, a bend, dovetailed, between six annulets, all counterchanged; -a crescent for difference. Crest—a demi-griffin, wings expanded, -_gules_, semée of annulets, _argent_. Motto—“Spes et fides.” - -The mansion is approached from the principal Lodge Entrance by a drive -through the park, which is finely timbered with forest trees of large -growth. These are chiefly oaks, of which there are some remarkably -fine and gigantic examples. Under these roam innumerable herds of red -and fallow deer, which add much to the beauty of the park scenery. -The Lodge, with its overhanging roofs, its mullioned windows, its -geometrical chimney-shafts, and its advanced porch, is one of the most -picturesque and pleasant in the county. - -The mansion itself is situated on an eminence, and commands extensive -views of the surrounding country. On the east side is the Carriage -Entrance, which is a spacious gravelled court-yard, enclosed next the -park by a stone balustrade. On the south side is the South or Grand -Terrace, a fine promenade walk some six hundred feet in length by -twenty feet in width, adorned with statuary, and overhung and shaded by -magnificent trees. This terrace is supported, at an elevation from the -park of about ten feet, by a massive stone wall and elegantly designed -balustrade. In the recesses are fine examples of sculpture, and the -balustrade itself supports a number of elegant vases, terminals, and -other ornaments, placed at regular distances. The park from this point -slopes gently away till it ends in a fine ornamental Lake. Looking -to the eastward, down a lovely glade in the park, another and more -magnificent piece of water, covering an area of over thirty acres, is -seen in the distance. - -[Illustration: _The South or Grand Terrace._] - -On the right, while passing along to the west end of this terrace, -stands the Conservatory. It is filled with the choicest exotic palms, -tree ferns, and flowering plants; and in the centre, on a massive -marble base, stands a magnificent sculptured group of figures in white -marble. The floor is geometrical in pattern, and the appointments, the -vases, the flower-stands, &c., are all characterized by good taste in -their arrangement. - -[Illustration: _The Garden Front._] - -The surrounding grounds are beautifully undulating and diversified, -and comprise the Flower Garden, Croquet Lawn, and American Garden. The -latter is situated in a natural dip of the grounds, and is completely -encircled and sheltered by a dense mass of oaks and other forest trees, -at the foot of which is a broad belt of common laurel, rhododendron, -&c. Then follows a winding walk, encircling about an acre of grass -lawn, on which are planted masses of azalea, rhododendron, kalmea, -andromeda, specimen coniferæ, &c., the whole producing a strikingly -pleasing effect. Arrived at the end of this terrace, the visitor -descends, by means of a broad flight of steps, to another terrace walk -nearly a quarter of a mile in length, and flanked for most of that -distance on each side with masses of rhododendrons alternated with -some fine specimens of _Cedrus deodara_ and the Chinese juniper. Again -descending by another flight of steps to the left, access is gained to -the Rose Garden. This “garden of roses,” which is of perfect Eastern -loveliness, takes the form of a half-circle, the whole of which is -filled with the choicest roses, the outer line being backed by a broad -belt of flowering rhododendrons. Some idea may be formed of the size -and importance of this Rose Garden from the fact that it contains -upwards of a thousand standard roses, and nearly as many dwarf roses, -and these comprise examples of every colour, shade, and variety that -are worth cultivating. The effect, when these are fully in flower, is -enchanting in the extreme. - -[Illustration: _The Mansion and Conservatory, from the Grounds._] - -In close proximity to this, but shut out by a high wall covered with -_Magnolia grandiflora_, are the Forcing and Plant Houses: these occupy -three sides of a square. Passing through the upper side, which is a -range of span-roofed houses, we find it embraces a Show House (kept -gay with flowers the year round), Fernery, Plant, Stove, and Camellia -House, in which latter is a plant of the old double white camellia -twenty feet across, and rather more than that in height, besides many -other fine specimens of those choicest and most beautiful of flowers. -Leaving this house, the visitor passes through about two hundred feet -in length of Vineries and Peach Houses, filled with their luscious -treasures in different stages of growth. Thus the third side of the -square is gained. This is another range of span Plant Houses, the -centre division being a Rose House, planted chiefly with tea-scented -roses. In the centre of this square, and running parallel with the two -end ranges, is a large late Peach House, 65 feet long by 24 feet wide: -this spans the walk which connects this square with the lower terrace. - -At the back of these houses are the Kitchen Gardens, which comprise -about four acres: these are well walled, and have a good wall to the -south. The soil being a retentive clay, fruit trees, as well as most -vegetables, thrive well. Here, also, are extensive ranges of pits used -for forcing early vegetables, pot vines, melons, cucumbers, and bedding -plants, of which latter about thirty thousand are grown and planted -annually. Here, too, are the Orchid House, containing many valuable -plants; Gardenia House; and range of Fig Houses. Covering the back wall -of the range of Vineries before alluded to, and facing the Kitchen -Gardens, are the Fruit Rooms, Mushroom House, Potting Sheds—also the -young men’s rooms: these are spacious, and contain every convenience -for their comfort. Too much credit cannot be given Mr. Lucas for the -manner in which he thus studies the comfort of his _employés_, both in -this and in other particulars. - -The most striking feature in the Kitchen Gardens is the Head Gardener’s -Cottage. This is a picture of architectural beauty, and, from its -elevated position, commands a view of every part of the gardens, as -well as most extensive prospects of the surrounding country. Not only -has the external appearance of this model cottage been made matter -of study, but the interior, also, is replete with every domestic -convenience. It is one of the most charming of residences, and its -occupant, Mr. Lucas’s head gardener, is one of the most accomplished -in his profession. To his good taste and skill much of the beauty and -attractiveness of the place is due. - -The north side of these gardens is bounded by a newly planted Orchard, -containing above a hundred fine standard trees of all the best -varieties of apples, pears, plums, &c. This is followed by about two -acres planted as a Pinetum, in which are many valuable and promising -young specimen coniferæ. This is continued down to the north carriage -drive, where it is bounded by a belt of evergreen shrubs, &c. It may -not be out of place here to add that the whole of these gardens owe -their existence, as well as their present state of high keeping, to -their present estimable owner, who has spared no expense in their -formation or subsequent management, and whose love of the beautiful, -whether in Nature or in Art, is unbounded. - -The internal arrangements of the house—which, besides all the -customary reception and state apartments and the domestic offices, -contains an unusual number of bed-rooms—are all that can be desired, -both for elegance and for home comforts; and the furnishing and -appointments are such as eminently to entitle Warnham Court to be -ranked as a home of taste. Mr. Lucas is a liberal patron of Art, and -both here and at his town mansion the walls are hung with pictures of -matchless excellence and of great price. They are chiefly by modern, -and most of them by British, artists: a list of them would include -nearly all the best painters of the age. - -The park is some three hundred and fifty acres in extent, the farm -occupies about six hundred acres more, and the pleasure-grounds add -another fifty acres to the total, so that Warnham Court is a fine and -noble property, and one unmatched in its district. - -It would ill become us, in any notice of the parish of Warnham, to -omit the mention of one of its worthies—Percy Bysshe Shelley. This -ill-fated, but gifted, poet was born at Field Place, on Broad-bridge -Heath, Warnham, on the 4th of August, 1792. He was the grandson of -Sir Bysshe Shelley, Bart., of Castle Goring, who married twice, and -had, by his first wife, with other issue, a son and successor, Sir -Timothy Shelley, who married Elizabeth, daughter of Charles Pinfold, -Esq., of Etchingham, in Surrey: their eldest son was the poet. Percy -Bysshe Shelley received his first education from the Rev. Mr. Edwards, -vicar of Warnham, and was then sent to school at Brentford, with his -young cousin, Thomas Medwin. At thirteen Shelley was sent to Eton. At -eighteen, having previously written much poetry, he produced his “Queen -Mab;” and in 1810 he entered University College, Oxford. “At the age of -nineteen he published a pamphlet embodying the arguments of Voltaire -and the false philosophy of that school, which was speedily circulated -amongst those in authority.” - -[Illustration: _View from the North-west._] - -This reckless act coloured all his subsequent life: it led to his -expulsion from college, to the breaking off of a match with his cousin, -and to his being discarded by his father. Soon afterwards young Shelley -married Miss Westbrook, at Gretna Green, and resided first at Keswick, -next in Ireland (where he published some political pamphlets), and -afterwards in Wales. After three years of married life and the birth of -two children, Shelley and his wife separated in 1814, and he went to -Switzerland, where he formed the friendship of Lord Byron, which closed -only with his death. In 1816 he was recalled from Switzerland by the -tragic fate of his wife, who committed suicide by drowning; and shortly -afterwards, her father, Mr. Westbrook, succeeded in an application to -deprive him of the guardianship of his children. Soon after the death -of his wife, Shelley married Mary Wollstonecraft Godwin, daughter of -the notorious free-thinker William Godwin, and herself the authoress of -“Frankenstein,” and they settled at Great Marlow, where he published -his “Alastor” and “The Revolt of Islam.” In 1818 they quitted England -for Italy, and from that time to his death every year “gave evidence of -Shelley’s untiring intellectual energy in the production of numerous -poems and other pieces,” including “Adonais,” “The Cenci,” “Prometheus -Bound,” &c. After spending some time in Rome and Naples and various -places, “Mr. and Mrs. Shelley engaged a house at Lerici, on the Bay of -Spezzia, and it was here that he met his premature and lamented death. -On the 8th of July, 1822, he set sail in his little schooner-yacht, -a vessel wholly unfit to encounter the squalls of the Mediterranean, -accompanied by his friend Captain Williams, to meet Leigh Hunt, who -was with Lord Byron at Pisa. A few days afterwards Shelley left his -friends, intending to return with Captain Williams, and set sail, in -spite of the unfavourable change in the weather, with an English boy, -named Charles Vivian, added to the party. They were off Via Reggio, -at some distance from the shore, when a storm was driven over the sea -which enveloped all in darkness; the cloud passed onwards, but the -little schooner had vanished. At the end of a dreadful week of suspense -the worst fears of his friends were confirmed. The body of Shelley was -washed on shore near Via Reggio, that of Captain Williams at a spot -about four miles distant, but that of Charles Vivian was not found for -three weeks afterwards. The bodies were burnt in accordance with the -Italian laws of quarantine, in the presence of Lord Byron and Leigh -Hunt, and Shelley’s ashes were afterwards enclosed in an urn, and -deposited in the English cemetery at Rome, by the side of his infant -son William.” “You will have heard by this time,” says Byron, when -writing to Moore on the 2nd of August, 1822, “that Shelley and another -gentleman (Captain Williams) were drowned about a month ago (a month -yesterday), in a squall off the Gulf of Spezzia. There is thus another -man gone about whom the world was ill-naturedly, and ignorantly, and -brutally mistaken. It will perhaps do him justice _now_, when he can -be no better for it.” Dying before his father (Sir Timothy), Shelley -did not, of course, succeed to the family estates; but, on the death of -Sir Timothy in 1844, the son of the poet succeeded, and is the present -head of the family, Sir Percy Florence Shelley, Bart., of Field Place, -Warnham. - -Around Warnham the neighbourhood is one unbroken succession of pleasant -scenery and of delightful “nooks and corners;” and the district is -studded with many pleasant residences. Within a few miles, too, are -Horsham, with its fine old church and other objects of interest; St. -Leonard’s Forest, Longhurst, Graylands, Rusper, and a score or two -other places that are full of beauty and interest, and show well what -charms are furnished by the scenery of Sussex. - - - - -LOWTHER CASTLE - - -WHETHER from its own nobleness of character, the innate beauty and -loveliness of its situation, the magnificence and even sublimity of its -surroundings, the grandeur and sumptuous richness of its appointments, -the extent of its domains, the historical incidents with which it -is connected, the interesting and stirring events which have been -associated with its history, or the true nobility of character of its -long line of illustrious owners, Lowther Castle may indeed be classed -as one of the finest, most important, and most stately of the “Stately -Homes” of this favoured land of ours. Situate in one of the most lovely -of shires—Westmoreland—and surrounded on all sides by the most -magnificent of scenery, Lowther is indeed a “favoured spot”—a spot -where Nature has been profuse in her gifts, and where Art has found a -fitting shrine. Here - - “hills on hills, on forests forests rise; - Spurn the low earth, and mingle with the skies.” - -Mountain and dale, hill and valley, fell and lake, moor and meadow, -wood and stream, are spread around in such lavish profusion that the -eye wanders on from one to another in constant change of scene, and the -mind vainly endeavours to grasp their varied beauties. Its situation -is, indeed, a scene of loveliness not easily conceived, and which but -few “earthly Edens” surpass. - -The castle itself, as it now stands, is modern; but it was erected -on the site of an older mansion, belonging to the same family, which -was taken down by Sir John Lowther in 1685, who enlarged and rebuilt -it on a scale of much magnificence. The greater part of this second -building, Lowther Hall as it was called, was destroyed by fire in 1720, -the wings only being left standing; but these were sufficient “to show -the ancient magnitude and grandeur of this formerly noble structure.” -In 1808 Lord Lonsdale, whose predecessor for very many years had been -making preparations by cutting down timber and collecting together -materials for the work, commenced the erection of the present edifice. -In January, 1808, the first stone was laid, and by the summer of -1809 a portion of the mansion was inhabited by the family. This new -structure, which is of castellated character, was dignified by the name -of “Lowther Castle,” in place of the old designation of “Hall.” It was -erected from the designs of Sir Robert Smirke, at an enormous cost, and -is considered to be his _chef-d’œuvre_ in that style of architecture, -in which, however, he was not at all times happy. The north front -is thoroughly castellated in its style, the south more ornate and -ecclesiastical in its character; the whole, however, from whichever -side it is seen, or from whatever point a glimpse is obtained, has a -picturesque appearance and an air of princely magnificence about it -that are eminently striking and pleasing to the eye. - -Lowther Castle stands in a grand old well-wooded park of some six or -eight hundred acres. In front, at a little distance, runs the lovely -river Lowther, with its rocky bed and its wildly romantic banks; at the -back (the south front) are the Lawns and the Deer Park; to the west are -the Terrace and Pleasure Gardens and wooded walks; and to the east the -Stables, Kitchen Gardens, and village. - -The family of Lowther, of which the present Earl of Lonsdale is the -noble head, is of considerable antiquity in the border counties of -Westmoreland and Cumberland. - -The names of William and Thomas Lowther appear as witnesses to a grant -as early as the reign of Henry II., and in the reign of Henry III. were -Sir Thomas de Lowther, Knight, Sir Gervase de Lowther, Knight, and -Gervase de Lowther, Archdeacon of Carlisle. Succeeding them was Sir -Hugh de Lowther, Knight, who was Attorney-General in 1292, represented -the county in 1300 and 1305, became Justice-Itinerant and Escheator in -Eyre north of the Trent; and was in 1331 made one of the Justices of -King’s Bench. Sir Hugh married a daughter of Sir Peter Tilliol, Knight, -and was succeeded by his eldest son, Sir Hugh Lowther. - -This Sir Hugh was married twice: first, to a daughter of Lord Lucy, of -Cockermouth; and, secondly, to Margaret, daughter of William de Quale. -At his death, after serving in many important offices, he was succeeded -by his son(?) Sir Robert Lowther, Knight, who died in 1490, leaving -issue by his wife, Margaret Strickland, a son, Sir Hugh, who succeeded -him, and three daughters, married respectively to Sir Thomas Curwen, -Sir James Pickering, and William Lancaster. - -[Illustration: _Lowther Castle, North Front._] - -Sir Hugh de Lowther married Margaret, daughter of John de Derwentwater, -by whom he left, with other issue, his son and successor, Sir Hugh de -Lowther, Knight, who represented the county of Cumberland. He married -Mabel, daughter of Sir William Lancaster, of Sockbridge, by whom he had -a son and heir, Sir Hugh de Lowther, Knight of the Bath, who married -Anne, daughter of Sir Launcelot Threlkeld, and died _circa_ 1511. - -Sir John de Lowther, his eldest son, succeeded him, and having married -Lucy, daughter of Sir Thomas Curwen, of Workington, had issue by her -a son, Sir Hugh, who, having married Dorothy, daughter of Henry, Lord -Clifford, had issue as follows:—Sir Richard Lowther, who succeeded to -the estates (of whom presently); Gerard Lowther, a bencher of Lincoln’s -Inn; Margaret Lowther, married to John Richmond, Esq., of Highead -Castle; Anne, married to Thomas Wybergh, Esq., of Clifton; Frances, -married to Sir Henry Goodyer, Knight of Powlesworth; and Barbara, -married to Thomas Carleton, of Carleton. Sir Hugh, dying during his -father’s lifetime, the estates passed to his eldest son— - -Sir Richard Lowther, Knight, who succeeded his cousin, Henry Lord -Scrope, as Lord Warden of the West Marches. Sir Richard “was three -times commissioner in the great affairs between England and Scotland -under Elizabeth.” He had also the unfortunate and ill-fated Mary Queen -of Scots under his charge, and conveyed her to Carlisle. He died in -1607, leaving with other issue, by his wife, Frances, daughter of John -Middleton, Esq., four sons—viz. Sir Christopher (of whom presently); -Sir Gerard Lowther, Chief Justice of Common Pleas and Lord Chancellor -of Ireland; Sir Launcelot Lowther, Knight, a Baron of the Exchequer in -Ireland; and William Lowther, Esq., of Ingleton. - -Sir Christopher Lowther was knighted by King James at -Newcastle-on-Tyne. He married Eleanor, daughter of Sir William -Musgrave, of Hayton, by whom he had a family of eight sons and four -daughters. He was succeeded by his son, Sir John Lowther, M.P. for -Westmoreland (married to Eleanor, daughter of William Fleming, of -Rydal), who, dying in 1637, was in turn succeeded by his son, Sir John -Lowther, M.P. for the same county, who was created a baronet in 1640. -Dying in 1675, he was succeeded by his grandson, Sir John Lowther, -who was “the thirty-first knight of the family in nearly direct -succession.” In 1689 he was made Lord-Lieutenant of Westmoreland and -Cumberland, and the following year appointed First Commissioner of the -Treasury. In 1696 Sir John was created Baron Lowther of Lowther and -Viscount Lonsdale, and, in 1698, was made Lord Privy Seal, and held -many other offices. Dying in 1700, he was succeeded in his titles and -estates by his son— - -Richard, second Viscount Lonsdale, who died in 1713, when the titles -and estates devolved on his brother Henry, third Viscount Lonsdale, at -whose death the barony of Lowther and viscountcy of Lonsdale ceased, -the estates and baronetcy devolving upon his great-nephew, Sir James -Lowther, eldest son of Robert Lowther, Esq., Governor of Barbadoes. - -Sir James was M.P. for Cumberland and Westmoreland. In 1782 he offered -to build and completely to furnish at his own expense a man-of-war -of seventy guns, but the coming peace rendered this unnecessary. -Sir James was, in 1784, created Baron Lowther of Lowther, Viscount -Lowther, and Earl of Lonsdale. He married a daughter of the Earl of -Bute, but, having no issue by her, his lordship, in 1797, obtained a -new patent, creating him Baron and Viscount Lowther, with remainder to -the heirs male of his cousin, the Rev. Sir William Lowther, Bart., of -Swillington. Dying in 1802, the earldom and other titles of the first -creation became extinct, those of the second patent descending to Sir -William Lowther, who thus became Baron Lowther and Viscount Lowther, -and was, in 1807, created Earl of Lonsdale. His lordship married the -Lady Augusta Fane, daughter of John, ninth Earl of Westmoreland, by -whom he had issue—William, Viscount Lowther, by whom he was succeeded; -the Hon. Henry Cecil Lowther, M.P.; the Lady Elizabeth Lowther, who -died unmarried; the Lady Mary Lowther, who married Major-general Lord -Frederick Cavendish-Bentinck, third son of the third Duke of Portland, -and was mother of Mr. G. A. F. Cavendish-Bentinck, M.P. for Whitehaven; -the Lady Anne Lowther, married to the Right Hon. Sir John Beckett, -Bart.; and the Lady Caroline Lowther, married to Lord William John -Frederick Poulett, son of the Duke of Cleveland. Dying in 1844, the -Earl was succeeded by his eldest son— - -William, second Earl of Lonsdale, Viscount and Baron Lowther, and -a baronet, who had been summoned to the House of Peers during his -father’s lifetime as Baron Lowther. He had sat as M.P. for various -places from 1801 to 1841, and, among other appointments, successively -held those of a Lord of the Admiralty, a Lord of the Treasury, -First Commissioner of Woods and Forests, Treasurer of the Navy, -Vice-President of the Board of Trade, Postmaster-General, and President -of Council. His lordship died unmarried on the 4th of March, 1872, and -was succeeded by his nephew— - -Henry Lowther, as third Earl of Lonsdale and Viscount and Baron Lowther -of Whitehaven, of the second creation, who was the son of Colonel the -Hon. Henry Cecil Lowther (second son of the first earl, by Lady Lucy, -daughter of the fifth Earl of Harborough). He was born on the 27th -of March, 1818, and succeeded his uncle at his death in 1872. His -lordship was educated at Westminster and at Trinity College, Cambridge, -where he took the degree of M.A. in 1838. He was appointed cornet and -sub-lieutenant in the 1st Life Guards in 1841, became lieutenant in -1843, captain in 1849, and retired in 1854. For twenty-four years he -retained the confidence of the electors of West Cumberland, sitting -uninterruptedly for this division from 1847 to 1872, when he succeeded -his uncle in the title and estates. The seat thus vacant by the late -earl’s accession to the House of Lords was obtained without a contest -by Lord Muncaster. His lordship was Lord-Lieutenant and _Custos -Rotulorum_ of Cumberland and Westmoreland, a magistrate for Rutland, -Hon. Colonel of the Royal Cumberland Militia and of the Cumberland -Rifle Volunteers, Lieutenant-Colonel of the Westmoreland and Cumberland -Yeomanry Cavalry, and a member of the Carlton, Boodle’s, Jockey, and -Turf Clubs. Lord Lonsdale married, in 1852, Emily Susan, daughter -of St. George Francis Caulfield, Esq., of Dunamon Castle, county -Roscommon, by whom he left issue living four sons and two daughters. -These are—St. George Henry Lowther, the present Earl of Lonsdale; the -Hon. Hugh Cecil Lowther, born in 1857; the Hon. Charles Edwin Lowther, -born in 1859; the Hon. Lancelot Edward Lowther, born in 1867; the Lady -Sybil Emily Lowther; and the Lady Verena Maud Lowther. His lordship -died somewhat suddenly on the 15th of August, 1876, and was buried the -Saturday following in Lowther Church. - -The present noble head of the House of Lowther, St. George Henry, -fourth Earl of Lonsdale and Viscount and Baron Lowther of Whitehaven, -and a baronet, was born on the 4th of October, 1855, and therefore -succeeded to the titles and estates a few weeks before attaining -his majority. His lordship was, in 1875, appointed Sub-Lieutenant of -the Royal Cumberland Militia, and shortly afterwards transferred to -the Nottingham Royal Sherwood Rangers. He is patron of forty-three -livings—viz. Aikton, Armathwaite, Bootle, Bolton, Bowness, Brigham, -Buttermere, Cockermouth, Cleator, Corney, Distingdon, Embleton, -Gosforth, Hensingham, Haile, Kirkandrews-upon-Eden, Kirkbride, Lorton, -Loweswater, Moresby, Mosser, St. Bees, Threlkeld, Whicham, Whitbeck, -St. James, Christchurch, St. Nicholas, and Holy Trinity, Whitehaven; -Askham, Bampton, Barton, Kirkby Stephen, Lowther, Patterdale, Clifton, -Ravenstonedale, Shap, Startforth (Yorkshire), Bampton Kirk, Orton, St. -John’s-in-the-Vale, and Crosthwaite. - -[Illustration] - -The arms of the Earl of Lonsdale are—_or_, six annulets, three, two, -and one, _sable_. Crest, a dragon, _argent_. Supporters, two horses, -_argent_, gorged with wreaths of laurel, _vert_. His seats are Lowther -Castle, Westmoreland; Whitehaven Castle, Cumberland; Barleythorpe, near -Oakham, Rutland; and Carlton House Terrace, London. - -Lowther Castle is entered by a massive porch in the centre of its north -front, the door, which is garnished with magnificent bronze knockers, -giving access to the grand Entrance Hall. This is a noble Gothic -apartment, some sixty feet long by thirty feet in width, ceiled with -panelled oak. The entrance doorway is in the centre of the north side, -and immediately in front is the Grand Staircase, across the landing of -which is a noble arcade of three lofty pointed archways rising from -clustered columns. From the angled corners of the Hall doorways open -to passages leading to the domestic offices. At each end of this fine -apartment, and again in front of each pillar between and adjoining -the flights of stairs, are suits of ancient armour standing on lofty -pedestals, ranges of the old “Black Bess” guns of the old Cumberland -Militia and other trophies of arms decorating the walls. - -The Grand Staircase, sixty feet square and ninety feet in height, -leads up from the Entrance Hall to the various suites of apartments. -It is entirely of stone, and has a richly groined ceiling rising from -clustered columns. Facing the entrance, on the first landing, is a -magnificent vase, and in canopied niches in the wall are exquisitely -sculptured figures, the arms of Lowther and the alliances of the family -also appropriately decorating the walls. The Staircase is of four -heights, the upper forming a triforium passage, over which are windows -filled with rich Gothic tracery and stained glass. The centre of the -elaborately groined ceiling is panelled, and bears the inscription: -“+ Edif^t. Cul^s. Com. de Lonsdale an^o. Regni L^o. R^s. Geo^i. III. -A^o. D^i. MDCCCX: cur^e. Rob^o. Smirke.” Arms and banners decorate the -walls, and plants and flowers, arranged to line the staircases in every -direction, add immeasurably to the beauty and the comfort as well as to -the stateliness of this fine portion of the edifice. - -[Illustration: _Lowther Castle, South Front._] - -It will not be necessary to enter fully into a description of the -various apartments of this noble residence; they are all sumptuous in -their furnishing, admirable in their appointments, and replete with -everything that can make a “home of taste” enjoyable. Some of the -apartments, however, require special notice, and to each of these we -proceed to devote a few lines—not taking them in any given order, but -as we saw them on our recent visit. - -Passing to the second landing through an “ante-room to the sleeping -apartments,” in which are preserved a valuable and extensive collection -of Ceramics arranged in glass cases, and also a number of antiquities, -are the State Bed-room and its suite of dressing-rooms. These are all -hung with remarkably fine Gobelins tapestry. These noble apartments -occupy the space in the centre of the south front, and from the windows -are lovely views of the Grounds and Deer Park. The state bed, which is -hung with white satin richly embroidered, is of black and gold, the -massive cornice, solidly gilt, being surrounded by angels, five on each -side and four at the foot, and reminding one of the charming nursery -rhyme of our childish days:— - - “Four corners to my bed, - Four angels round me spread; - One to sing, and one to pray, - And two to carry my soul away!” - -The appointments of the room are of the most sumptuous character, the -toilet service of silver gilt adding much to its magnificence. - -On the landing of the Grand Staircase, among other Art treasures are -Lawrence’s full-length portrait of George IV., Greenhill’s Walpole, -Kneller’s Duke of Marlborough, Addison, and other paintings; and in the -east ante-room leading to the sleeping apartments in that part of the -castle are various objects of note. - -On the first or ground floor landing of the Grand Staircase, to the -right, between the private apartments, is a corridor leading to various -rooms, and to the left a similar corridor, from which open the Library -and other apartments, leads to the Gallery of Worthies, and gives -access to the Sculpture Gallery; it has a groined ceiling, and contains -a large and powerful organ, wall-cases of books, and some valuable -paintings and busts. - -The Library is in the north front, and is a noble and well-appointed -room, fitted in a style of quiet sumptuousness that is in full accord -with the rich collection of rare literary treasures with which -the walls are lined. The ceiling is of panelled oak of suitable -Gothic character, heightened with gold, and the presses for books -are also of oak richly adorned with cinquefoil cusps. Besides its -literary treasures, the Library is hung with a fine collection of -family portraits of surpassing interest. These are (beginning at the -north-east corner of the apartment)—Sir John Lowther, of Lowther, -Bart., 1657; Sir John Lowther, _fils_, 1675; James, Earl of Lonsdale, -known as “the eccentric earl;” Sir Christopher Lowther, Bart.; -Eleanor, wife of Sir John Lowther; Henry, third Viscount Lonsdale; -Richard, second Viscount Lonsdale; Sir John Lowther, Bart.; Hon. -Anthony Lowther; Jane, wife of Sir John Lowther; Rev. Sir William -Lowther, Bart.; Sir James Lowther, Bart.; Robert Lowther, Esq.; Sir -John Lowther, Bart.; and William, Earl of Lonsdale, K.G. Among other -objects of interest preserved in this room is a table formed of the -wood of one of the piles of old London Bridge, with a small portion of -the “Abdication Tree” of Napoleon inserted. It bears this inscription, -“Made out of one of the piles supporting the chapel arch of London -Bridge. Supposed date, 1176. The gift of John Rennie, architect, 1829.” -“Le cinq d’avril dix-huit cent quatorze Napoleon Bonaparte signa son -abdication sur cette table dans le cabinet de travail du Roi, le 2^{me} -après la chambre à coucher à Fontainebleau.” “Wilkinson & Sons, 14, -Ludgate Hill, 6881.” - -The Billiard-room, not on account of any architectural features or of -the use to which it is assigned, but from the remarkably interesting -character of the collection of pictures contained within its walls, -is one of the most important features of the castle. Its walls are -hung with portraits of “Westmoreland Worthies,” forming a gallery of -celebrities of which not only the county, but the nation may indeed -well be proud, and the founding of which is a lasting honour to the -House of Lowther. Well indeed would it be if the example of forming -local Galleries of Worthies, so nobly set by the second Earl of -Lonsdale, were followed by the Lords-Lieutenant of other counties -whose high functions and important positions point them out especially -as the right parties to honour native worth, and their mansions as -the right and proper and only place in which such a gallery should be -enshrined. The collection of “Westmoreland Worthies” at Lowther Castle -is a noble beginning in the right direction, and it is to be hoped -the spirit and feeling that caused its foundation by one of the noble -heads of the House of Lowther may still actuate his successors, and -cause what is now a glorious nucleus to become a full and complete -collection. The portraits at present contained in this gallery -are—Queen Catherine Parr, wife of Henry VIII., born at Kendal Castle; -Christopher Baynbrigg, Cardinal of St. Praxede, Legate to the Court of -Rome, Archbishop of York, Master of the Rolls, &c.; George Clifford, -Earl of Cumberland; Sir Gerard Lowther, Lord Chief Justice of the Court -of Common Pleas, Ireland; the Marquis of Wharton; the Right Hon. -Joseph Addison; John, First Viscount Lonsdale; the Hon. Justice Wilson; -Sir Alan Chambre; Dr. Burn, LL.D., the historian of Westmoreland and -Cumberland, and author of the “Justice of the Peace;” Lord Langdale; -Alderman Thompson, Lord Mayor of London; Sir George Fleming, Bishop -of Carlisle; Gibson, Bishop of London; John Bell, Chancery barrister; -Richard Braithwaite, author of the “English Gentleman,” &c.; Dean -Addison; Dr. Shaw; Waugh, Bishop of Carlisle; Duke of Wharton; -Admiral Sir Charles Richardson; John Langhorne, D.D.; Watson, Bishop -of Llandaff; Bernard Gilpin; General Bowser; Thomas Barlow; William -Hogarth, whose ancestors belonged to the county; Dr. Fothergill; the -Countess of Pembroke, who once wrote, when pressed to put in a court -candidate for the borough of Appleby, “Sir, I have been bullied by an -usurper, I have been neglected by a court, but I will not be dictated -to by a subject. Your man shan’t stand;” Admiral Pearson, famous for -his engagement with Paul Jones; John Robinson, Surveyor-General of -Woods and Forests, who is represented holding in his hand a “Report of -Acorns planted in and about Windsor Great Park,” &c.[49] - -It may be named _en passant_ that in various parts of the castle are -a number of paintings—supposed to be veritable Hogarths—which were -brought from the old Vauxhall Gardens. - -The Drawing-room, opposite the Library, is a lovely apartment—the -walls hung with costly figured satin, the ceiling richly groined in -elaborate fan-tracery, and the furniture as sumptuous and elegant as -the most exquisite and fastidious taste could desire, or the most -lavish expenditure procure. Among the furniture is a magnificent suite -of couch, chairs, and stools, which are of historic interest; they -belonged to Tippoo Sahib, and are marvels of Indian Art workmanship in -ivory and gold. It is not, however, our province to speak in detail -of any of the appointments or furnishing of the rooms; all we can say -is that the Drawing-room and other apartments are rich storehouses -of exquisite gems of loveliness, such as one might naturally expect -would characterize a home presided over by a lady of such pure taste -and such high accomplishments as the present Countess of Lonsdale. -We must, however, casually allude to one literary treasure which is -kept in the Drawing-room—an album in which have been written by their -own hands, at various times when visiting Lowther, poetical or prose -contributions by Sir Walter Scott, William Wordsworth, Robert Southey -(13th October, 1824), Samuel Rogers (January 23rd, 1826), the Duke of -Wellington (January 2nd, 1829), Sir Humphry Davy (Sept. 11th, 1826), -Hon. G. O’Callagan, Amelia Opie, and others; while it is also graced -by original drawings made on its pages by Dewint, Page, Sir George -Beaumont, Lady Anne Beckett, Lady Delamere, Lady Farnborough, Lady F. -Bentinck, the Marchioness of Stafford, &c. - -The Saloon, in the centre of the south front, has a Gothic panelled -ceiling, and contains many fine paintings by Zuccarelli, Guido, -Elisabetta Sirani, &c., and (as well as other parts of the house) some -grand old china. The Dining-room has two fine paintings—Pitt, by -Hoppner, and Wellington, by Jackson; and in the centre of the gorgeous -display of gold plate on the buffet is a full-sized silver-gilt copy of -Flaxman’s _chef-d’œuvre_, the Shield of Achilles. - -The Countess’s or Breakfast Room contains some of the richest treasures -of Art in the castle. Among them are the Wakes, the Feast, and the -Fête Champêtre of Teniers; a Holy Family of Rubens; and marvellously -fine examples of Vandyke, Fyt, Wouvermans, Leonardo da Vinci, Gerard -Douw, FrankHals, Ruysdael, Borgognone, Rembrandt, Jan Steen, Bischey, -Sassoferrato, Titian, and others. - -The Picture Gallery, with its glass ceiling, is a noble room, filled -with pictures of high merit, many being _chefs-d’œuvre_ of the various -artists. It will be sufficient to say that it contains, among others, -no less than ten Snyders of large size and of almost unmatched -excellence (the only others we know of equal or more excellence being -those at Welbeck), and admirable examples of Tintoretti, Titian (a -remarkably fine picture), Guido, Paolo Veronese, Paris Bordone, Luca -Giordano, Backhuysen, Zuccarelli, Hogarth, Bernardo Canaletto, Poussin, -Carlo Cignani, Salvator Rosa, Bordenone, Lely (a nude Nell Gwynne, -which contrasts very unfavourably with the Titian on the same walls), -Paul Bril, Bronzino, Bassano, Fyt, Delia Nottie, Murillo, Zucchero, &c. - -[Illustration: _Lowther Castle, the Sculpture Gallery._] - -The other apartments, beautiful as they all undoubtedly are, and filled -as they are with choice works of Art, are not necessary to be named. -There are, however, two of the most important features of Lowther yet -to be noticed. These are the two Sculpture Galleries and the passages -and corridors leading to them. To these we proceed to direct brief -attention. - -[Illustration: _Roman Sculptured Stone from Kirkby Thore._] - -In one part of the Gallery is a marvellously extensive and highly -important assemblage of Roman inscribed stones—altars, monumental -stones, inscriptions of cohorts, &c.—from the Roman wall and from -the old stations in the three counties; mediæval sculptures from -the neighbourhood; and a number of Celtic and Roman urns and other -antiquities of more than passing interest: to these, however, we cannot -find space to direct attention.[50] Among the Roman sculptured stones -at Lowther Castle are the following:—From Drumburgh a fragment, -bearing the words— - - PEDATVRA - VINDO - MORVCI - -Vindomora being a station in the first Iter of Antonine; another -with the words COH VII (cohors septima); and a stone bearing a -female helmeted figure, holding a wreath in her right, and a distaff -in her left, hand. From Kirkby Thore the upper part of an altar, -inscribed IOVI SERAPI L ALFENVS PATE[RNVS] (Iovi Serapi Lucius Alfenus -Pate[rnus]); a singular sculptured stone bearing a representation of a -death-bed scene, the sufferer partaking of her last meal preparatory to -her departure, the only inscription left being FILIA CRESC IMAG NIER -(Filia Crescentis imag[i]nif[e]r[i]); a stone representing a mounted -warrior with uplifted sword, trampling on a foe; a fragment of another, -where the mounted warrior is in full career, spearing his prostrate -foe; another stone, bearing much the same design as the last, but in a -more complete state; a fir-cone; a female head; and a lion overpowering -a ram. From Plumpton, or Old Penrith, a remarkably fine sepulchral -inscribed stone, bearing a figure, probably intended to represent a -deceased child. He is dressed in a tunic, and holds in his left hand a -whip, and in his right a kind of toy. The inscription is— - - DIS - MANIB M COCCEI - NONNI ANNOR V - HIC SITVS EST - -(Diis Manibus Marci Cocceii Nonni annorum quinque his situs est); and -another bearing the inscription— - - D M - YLAE ALVM - NI KARIS - SIMI VIXI[T] - [A]N XIII CL S[E] - VERVS INL ... - -(Diis Manibus Ylæ alumni carissimi. Vixit annos tredecim. Claudius -Severus....) - -[Illustration: _Roman Altars from Old Penrith._] - -Among the antique sculpture contained in the galleries is the Venus -from the temple to that goddess at Cnidus. The exquisite torso, the -remainder of the figure being restored, was from the Stowe collection; -and it is undoubtedly an example of the purest Greek, of an age “when -Art was a religion.” - -[Illustration: _Roman Remains from Kirkby Thore._] - -[Illustration: _Roman Remains from Drumburgh and Kirkby Thore._] - -[Illustration: _Roman Remains from Kirkby Thore._] - -It has with reason been attributed to Praxiteles; and it is believed -to be the work alluded to by Lucian and Pliny as one of the triumphs -of Greek Art—a belief which obtains force with all Art-lovers by -whom it has been seen. There are also a statue of Diana, of exceeding -grace and beauty; a Statue of Julius Caesar, half life-size, seated in -a consular chair, and of fine conception; the upper half of a seated -female figure, draped, brought to England by Lord Guildford, and the -only specimen brought home by him—a great work, certainly a production -of the best era of Greece, and a majestic, yet tender creation; a -statue of Agrippina, of rare excellence, from the Stowe collection; a -torso of a Venus, from the Marquis of Hertford’s collection—a work of -refined delicacy, yet exhibiting intense power; a statue of Bacchus, a -relic of great worth; a beautiful statue of Hygeia, from the Besborough -collection—a work of pure Art, originally from the Capitol; a Roman -sarcophagus, from the same collection, with Cupids hunting in relief; a -monument from the Besborough collection, inscribed “Honos est præmium -virtutis,” and several other sarcophagi and monuments; a rich example -of moulding from the Palace of the Cæsars; a figure of Mars; some -vases; statues of Marcus Aurelius, Bacchus, Agrippina, and Diana; busts -of Livia, Trajan, Janus, Cato, Vitellius, Nero, Sylla, Seneca, Plato, -Marcus Pompeius, Galba, Agrippina, Faustina, Matidia, Homer, Nerva, the -Cæsars, and Æsculapius; and a bronze statue of Hercules. - -There are also some fine stone chairs, an Egyptian bath, statues of -Pan, Augustus, a roman Senator, Hygeia, Euterpe, Flora, Cybele, Adonis, -Paris, the Water-carrier, Sphinx, Cicero, Aristides, &c.; and “the -Olympian Meta, brought from Greece by the Emperor Nero, and placed -in the circus at Rome.” It was purchased by the Marquis of Hertford, -and was formerly in his collection. It now forms one of the more -interesting features of the Lowther Gallery. - -Among other interesting objects are roman sarcophagi (the form of one -of which was copied for one of the Earls of Lonsdale to be interred in) -bearing the inscriptions— - - D M D M - C MESSIO C TVTILIO RVPINO - SEQVMDINO XVO VENATORI - QVI VIXIT T. CAVDIVS SECVNDVS - ANNIS AMICO B M; - XVII MESES - IIII - -a curious mosaic picture of fish, bearing the following -inscription:—“This mosaic, containing 20,000 siliceous pebbles, is -the work of Sosus Pergami, who flourished 320 years before Christ, -and is mentioned in the writings of the elder Pliny. Discovered in -the ruins of the Palace of Pope Leo the 12th, at Villa Chichignola. -Presented by Pope Gregory the 16th to Sir Edward Thomason, in the year -1832;” and some other mosaics. There are also exquisite marble busts -of Pitt, Wellington, George III., the Duke of York, Lord Liverpool, -and others, as well as Chantrey’s charming head of our present beloved -Queen Victoria when a little child. - -[Illustration: _In the Grounds of Lowther Castle._] - -The Grounds and Gardens of Lowther Castle are among its most glorious -and charming attractions. Nature has done much for it in the beauty of -its situation and the majestic character of its surroundings; and the -purest taste in Art, allied to the most consummate skill, has taken -advantage of those natural beauties, and added charm upon charm to -the place. On the west front are lawns (divided from the Deer Park by -a sunk fence) laid out tastefully in beds rich in their profusion of -colours. At the west end of the mansion is the Conservatory, and near, -but below it, approached by a flight of steps from the Terrace, is -the Countess’s Garden. The site of this exquisitely lovely spot is a -natural dell, and its sloping sides are turfed and planted, while the -centre is somewhat elaborately, and with faultless taste, laid out in -geometrical form, and filled with the choicest and richest of flowers; -the disposition of the vases, the arrangement of the beds, and the -harmonious blending of the colour showing the purest taste and a high -order of skill on the part of the head-gardener, to whom it owes its -origin. Near this is the Yew Avenue—a walk densely covered in by the -intertwined branches and foliage of the rows of yew-trees, hundreds of -years old, which range along its sides. From here pathways lead on to -the Terrace outside the wood. - -Of the Terrace it is impossible to convey an idea. It is simply a -tract of high land, thickly wooded with the finest of forest trees and -the most majestic of conifers, around the outer edge of which runs a -broad grassy walk or drive, commanding almost a panorama of the finest -of views that even this district of marvellous scenery can produce. -From here, in one direction, is Knipe Scar, rising above the village -of Bampton; and behind it, again, are Swindale, Walla Crag, beneath -which is the lovely lake of Haweswater, and above these, again, rise -Harter Fell and High Street (over which runs the old Roman road). Then -the hamlet of Helton, and further to the right Helvellyn and other -mountains above Ulleswater. Again, there is Askham, with the heights of -Blencathra or Saddleback, and the mountains in the Keswick district; -while through the Park, far down below, runs the river Lowther, whose -murmurs over its rocky bed are distinctly audible. In the wood which -skirts the Terrace are some gigantic conifers and other trees which are -“great among the greatest.”[51] - -The Kitchen Gardens, at some distance from the mansion, are well -arranged, very extensive (about seven acres), and extremely productive; -and their pleasing effect is much heightened by the judicious -introduction of richly arranged flower borders: the glass houses of all -kinds are of great extent. - -At a little distance across the park is Lowther Church, with the family -Mausoleum in its churchyard. The Mausoleum, upon which the gifted poet, -the Rev. James Dixon, wrote the following stanza— - - “A grander, fairer spot of English ground - To rest in till the trump of doom shall blow - From the high heavens through land and sea below, - In all this ancient realm could not be found. - Sheer from beneath, the river’s amber flood, - Breaking in white waves ‘gainst the stony shores, - Round this green eminence for ever pours - The loud voice of its waters, through the wood - That clothes its banks, and crowns the airy hills - And verdant slopes of Lowther’s wide domain, - Swelling and falling with the grand refrain - Of Nature’s voice omnipotent. What heart but thrills - To these wild charms, lit by the vernal beams, - Grey wood, green lawn, and river’s dancing gleams?”—— - -is a plain Gothic building, containing in its upper room a finely -sculptured figure, by Stephens, of “William, Earl of Lonsdale,” 1863. -The Church possesses some good Norman features which are worthy of -careful examination, and many interesting monuments to the Lowther -family. Among these may be named the following:— - -In the north transept a large altar tomb to William, first Earl of -Lonsdale of the second creation, who died March 19th, 1844; and -Augusta, his countess (daughter of John, ninth Earl of Westmoreland), -who died March 6th, 1838. Here, too, was buried the late third Earl, -who died in August, 1876. There are also tablets to the memory of -James, first Earl of Lonsdale, 1802, and his countess, Mary, daughter -of John, Earl of Bute, 1824; and to Richard, Lord Lonsdale; and brasses -to Colonel the Hon. Henry Cecil Lowther (father of the late earl), -1867; and to Lucy Eleanor, his wife, daughter of Philip, fifth Earl of -Harborough, 1848; and to the Hon. Arthur Lowther, their son, 1855. - -In the south transept are a remarkably finely sculptured monument with -a reclining figure to the memory of John, Viscount Lonsdale and Baron -Lowther, 1700, and Catherine, his countess; and other noble monuments -to Sir John Lowther, 1637; Sir John, 1675; and Lord William Frederick -Cavendish-Bentinck, who married the Hon. Mary Lowther, 1828. In the -same transept is a recumbent effigy in plate armour, over which is a -tablet of remarkable character, bearing a family pedigree. This almost -unique example of inscription is as follows, each item being, on the -tablet, enclosed in squares, which, however, we have not followed:— - - “IOHN LOWTHER of Lowther in ye═╤═LUCYE his wife davghter of S^r - Covetye of Westmerland Knight │ Christopher Curwin Knight - │ - ┌————————————————————————┬——┘ - │ │ - HVGNE LOWTHER Esqvire═╤═DORATHYE davghter of Hen^{ry} - married │ L^d Clifford They had issve - │ - ┌——————————————┬————————┴———————┬————————————————————————* - │ │ │ - MARGARET ANNE married FRAVNCIS married - married to Ioh to Tho Wibersh to S^r Henrye - Richmond of of Clif to Goodyer - Highet Esq^r Esqvire they of Powlswoorth - Hath issve Have issve Knight - they have iss^e - - *——————┬————————————————————————————————┬———————————————┐ - │ │ │ - RICHARD LOWTHER═╤═FRANCES the GERARD LOWTHER BARBERRIE - Knight │ davghter of Esqvier married to - married and │ Iohn Middleton Tho Carleton Esqvier - had issve │ of Middleton of Carleton Apprentice - by │ Esq Esqvi of y^e Law - │ they have iss^e - │ - │ - ┌——————┬——┴—————┬—————————┬———————————┬———┬——————┐ - │ │ │ │ │ │ │ - ANNE married │ GERARD LOWTHER │ HVGH LOWTHER │ WILLIAM LOWTHER - to Alexander │ Esq: one │ Capitayne │ married - Fetherston │ of y^e Ivstices │ in y^e voyage │ Elinor Wel-Berye - of Fetherst │ of y^e Comon │ of Portvgale │ and by - Esqvire they │ Pleas in Ireland │ A Dni is │ Her hath - Have issue │ │ │ issve - │ │ │ - ┌—————┘ │ │ - │ │ │ - FRAVNCIS married S CHRISTOPH LANCELLOTT - to Tho: LOWTHER Knt LOWTHER Esqvire - Cliborne of married Elinor Sollicitor - Cliborne Esq Musgrave General - and hath and hath to Qveene Anne - issve issve - - “S^r Rich: Lowther Knig: succeded Hen: Lo^d: Scroope in ye office - of Lo Warden of y^e West Marches, & was thrice a Commissionor in - y^e grete affayres betweene England & Scotland, all in ye time of - Qveene Elizabeth & after he had seene his children to ye 4th degree - geven them vertuous edvcation & meanes to live advanced his brothers - & sisters ovt of his owne patrimonye governed his family & kept - plentifvll hospitalitye for 57 yeares together, he ended his life ye - 27th of Ian: A^o Dni. 1607. Ætas. svæ 77 vttring at his last breth - these verses followinge” - - -Beneath this inscription is a plain black tablet let into the stone, -which has, there can be no doubt, at one time borne, or been intended -to bear, the verses. It is now quite black and plain, so that the -“verses” Sir Richard was “vttring at his last breth” are literally -“blank verse.” - -In the south aisle are tablets to Colonel Lowther (grandfather of the -present Earl of Londale), 1867, and Lucy Eleanor Shorard, his wife, -1848; to Elizabeth, second daughter of William, Earl of Lonsdale, 1869; -to Mary, third daughter of the same earl, and widow of Lord Frederick -Bentinck, 1863; and to Anne, fourth daughter of the same, and widow of -Sir John Beekett of Sowerby, 1871. - -From Lowther Church a delightful path leads by the side of the river -Lowther to Askham Bridge, near which are the village Church, the -charming Rectory-house, and Askham Hall, a noble old Border stronghold, -now the residence of the Rev. Dr. Jackson, the respected and venerable -Provost of Queen’s College and Rector of Lowther. Few spots in the -whole district can compare in loveliness with Askham Bridge. The -rocky bed of the river—flat table rock, full of deep wide cracks—the -masses of stone hurled down upon its surface, the rich green and brown -of its water, the number of fish seen disporting among the rocks, and -the rich, deeply tinted, and massive foliage by which the whole is -overhung, form a picture of faultless loveliness. - -Of the district around Lowther we cannot say more than a few brief -words. It is, as we have already observed, a district rich in natural -beauties of mountain and lake, of hill and valley, of wood and river; -but it is also equally rich in places of historic interest and in -objects of antiquarian importance. The whole of the Lake district, -including the two counties of Westmoreland and Cumberland, is, indeed, -one grand storehouse of places of note, and objects to which attention -is worthy to be drawn. It is only of a few that we can speak. - -Penrith, one of the oldest towns of the district, with its ruined -castle, its beacon, its “giant’s grave” and other Danish or Saxon -remains, its famous old grammar school, its interesting church, its -plague record,[A] and its altar-piece, the exquisite work of Jacob -Thompson; Clifton, memorable as the scene of the battle of Clifton -Moor, and where the old border stronghold, the house where the Duke -of Cumberland slept, and the oak-tree under which the slain were -buried, are still pointed out; Eamont Bridge, where “A welcome into -Cumberland” is held out as the sign of the inn on crossing the river -into that county, and close by which are the curious earth-works of -“King Arthur’s Round Table” and “Mayborough;” Brougham Castle, a grand -old ruined fortress, on the site of the Roman station _Broconiacum_, -and the place from which Lord Brougham derives his title; Brougham -Hall, “the Windsor of the North,” the seat of Lord Brougham and Vaux, -a fine castellated mansion, with a glorious chapel, full to repletion -with Art-work of costly and elaborate character; the famous stone -circle “Long Meg and her daughters,” three hundred and fifty yards -in circumference; Dacre Castle, a grand old fortress, whose owners -fought at the siege of Acre under Cœur de Lion, and thus named their -own stronghold now in ruins; Eden Hall, famous as the hall where is -preserved the goblet called the “Luck of Eden Hall,” about which hangs -so much traditional mystery, and the prophetic import of the couplet— - - “If that glass should break or fall, - Farewell the luck of Eden Hall”— - -is implicitly believed in; Askham, of which we have already spoken; -Greystoke Castle, where “Belted Will” Howard and his wife, “Bessie with -the braid apron,” lived; Shap, with its ruined abbey; Ulleswater, the -grandest of lakes—wild, lovely, and beautiful, with its banks at its -more sylvan end here and there studded with charming villas; Sharrow -Bay, a “home of taste,” the seat of Anthony Parkin, Esq., where Art -is more happily wedded to Nature than is usually the case, and where -the views of the lake are more charming than from any other point; -Lyulph’s Tower; Haweswater, another exquisite lake; Hackthorpe, rich in -antiquarian interest, but rendered for all time famous as the residence -of one of the most gifted sons of Art, Jacob Thompson,[52] from whose -easel at the “Hermitage” emanate those marvellous conceptions which -have created for him his “name and fame for all time;” Lowther village, -planned in military style, and with adjoining battery; Bampton, -Helton, and a score or two other places—these are not a tithe of -the attractions which the immediate neighbourhood of Lowther Castle -presents, and which are all easily visited by the stranger. Thanks to -the railway companies—to the Midland more especially, by the formation -of its Settle and Carlisle line—the Lake district is opened out to -the world, and is able to be visited with real pleasure, with economy -of time, with immense benefit, and with perfect comfort. By the line -to which we have alluded the traveller passes along the side of one of -the loftiest of the whole ranges of mountains, and sees the country -mapped out beneath him in rich profusion of wood and meadow and stream, -the towns and villages dotted about here and there, and the becks and -streams, the tarns and lakes, the rocks and mountains, opened out -before him, charmingly diversified and rendered rich in colouring by -the ever-changing atmosphere. From London, without change, all this -can be reached by the Settle and Carlisle route, and the visitor may -thus in a few brief hours be transported from the busy town life of the -metropolis into the very heart of the most lovely scenery the world can -produce. - - - - -CLUMBER. - - -CLUMBER, the seat of his Grace the Duke of Newcastle, is charmingly -situated within about four miles from Worksop, and on the borders of -Sherwood Forest. The drive from Worksop, up Sparkin Hill, and so along -the highway for the forest, is lovely in the extreme, the road being -well wooded on either side, and presenting glimpses of forest scenery -that are peculiarly grateful to the eye. Leaving the main road to the -left, and entering the grounds by the Lodge, a carriage drive of a mile -or more in length through the well-wooded park leads to the mansion, -which is at once elegant, picturesque, and “homely.” To it, however, we -are only able to devote very brief attention. - -Clumber is of comparatively modern erection, having been first built -in 1770, and received since then many important additions. It has, -therefore, no history attached to it. The place was, till about that -time, simply a wild tract of forest land, which the then noble duke who -planned and carried out the works cleared and cultivated at an enormous -outlay, forming the extensive lake at an expense of some £7,000, and -erecting the mansion at a princely cost. - -The main feature of the house is its west front, facing the lake: this -we have engraved. Its centre is a colonnade, and this gives access to -the entrance hall, the oldest portion of the house being a part of the -shooting-box, to which magnificent additions have been made. Between -the mansion and the lake are the Italian gardens, elegantly laid out -in beds of the richest flowers, and well diversified with vases and -statuary; in the centre is a fountain of large size (the bowl being -nearly thirteen feet in diameter), of white marble and of Italian -workmanship. - -[Illustration: _Clumber, West Front._] - -The family of Pelham, which, with that of Clinton, is represented by -the Duke of Newcastle, is of considerable antiquity in the county of -Hertford, deriving the name from the manor or lordship of Pelham, in -that county, which, in the reign of Edward I., belonged to Walter de -Pelham. He died in 1292, leaving two sons—William, who died without -issue, and Walter, who was succeeded by his son, Thomas de Pelham. -John de Pelham, the grandson of this latter, “was a person of great -fame in the reign of King Edward III.; and in memory of his valiant -acts, his figure, in armour, with the arms of the family on his breast, -was painted on glass in the Chapter-house at Canterbury, being (’tis -probable) a benefactor to the cathedral, or was buried there.” At the -battle of Poictiers he shared the glory of taking the French king -prisoner with “Lord la Warr, and in memory of so signal an action, -and the king’s surrendering his sword to them, Sir Roger la Warr, -Lord la Warr, had the crampet or chape of his sword for a badge of -that honour, and John de Pelham (afterwards knighted) had the buckle -of a belt as a mark of the same honour, which was sometimes used by -his descendants as a seal manual, and at others the said buckle on -each side a cage, being an emblem of the captivity of the said King -of France, and was therefore borne as a crest, as in those times was -customary.” The “Pelham buckle” is still the badge of the family. Sir -John married Joan, daughter of Vincent Herbert, or Finch, ancestor of -the Earls of Winchelsea and Nottingham, and was succeeded by his son, -John de Pelham, who was no less famous than his father for many great -achievements and honourable exploits. He was Constable of Pevensey -Castle, Treasurer to the King, Ambassador to the French King, and -held many other important offices, and was knighted. Dying in 1428, -Sir John was succeeded by his son, Sir John de Pelham, who also held -many offices. He married twice: first, Joan, co-heiress of Sir John -d’Escures; and, secondly, Joan de Courcy, by whom he had issue, with -others, his son and successor, Sir John de Pelham, who married Alice, -daughter of Sir Thomas Lewknor, but died without male issue, when the -estates passed to his brother, William de Pelham, who also died without -issue, and was succeeded by his brother Thomas. - -Thomas Pelham was consecutively succeeded by his sons, John and Sir -William, the latter of whom married, first, Mary, daughter of Sir -Richard Carew; and, secondly, Mary, daughter of William, Lord Sands -of the Vine, Lord Chamberlain to Henry VIII. By his first wife he -had issue, with others, a son Nicholas, of whom hereafter; and by -his second, with others, a son William, who became famous: from him -descended the Pelhams of Brocklesby. Sir Nicholas Pelham married Anne -Sackville, and, at his death in 1559, was succeeded by his son, Sir -John Pelham, who married Judith, daughter of Oliver, Lord St. John of -Bletsoe, by whom he had a son, Oliver, who died young four years after -his father. He was succeeded by Thomas, brother to Sir John, who was -created a baronet in 1611. He married Mary, daughter of Sir Thomas -Walsingham, and was succeeded by his son, Sir Thomas Pelham, as second -baronet, who married three times, and left issue by his first and third -wives. The eldest of these was his successor, Sir John Pelham, Bart., -who married the Lady Lucy, daughter of the Earl of Leicester, by whom -he had a family of three sons and three daughters. He died in 1702-3, -and was succeeded by his eldest son, Sir Thomas Pelham, Bart., who, -in 1706, was raised to the peerage by the title of Baron Pelham of -Laughton, in Sussex. - -Lord Pelham married, first, Elizabeth, daughter of Sir William Jones, -Attorney-General, and, secondly, the Lady Grace Holles, youngest -daughter of Gilbert, Earl of Clare, and sister of John Holles, fourth -Earl of Clare, created Duke of Newcastle (who had married the Lady -Margaret Cavendish, daughter and co-heiress of Henry Cavendish, -second Duke of Newcastle), by whom he had issue two sons—Thomas and -Henry—and five daughters. He died in 1711-12, and was succeeded by his -eldest son, Thomas, as second Baron Pelham. - -This peer was born in 1693, and by the will of his uncle, John Holles, -Duke of Newcastle, “was made his heir, and authorised to bear the name -and arms of Holles.” Besides many other important offices, he was made -Steward, Keeper, and Warden of the Forest of Sherwood and the Park of -Folewood, in the county of Nottingham, and in 1714 was promoted to -the dignity of Earl of Clare and Viscount Haughton, with remainder, -in default of male issue, to his brother, the Hon. Henry Pelham and -his heirs male. In the following year he was created Marquis of Clare -and Duke of Newcastle, with the like remainder, and was made a K.G. He -married, in 1717, Lady Harriet Godolphin, co-heiress of Lord Godolphin, -and granddaughter of John, Duke of Marlborough, but died without issue -in 1768. His brother, Henry Pelham, who had married Lady Catherine -Manners, daughter of the Duke of Rutland, having also died without -surviving male issue, the estates and the titles of Duke of Newcastle -and Baron Pelham passed to Henry Clinton, ninth Earl of Lincoln, who -had married Catherine, daughter of Henry Pelham, and whose mother was -the Lady Lucy Pelham, the Earl assuming the name of Pelham in addition -to that of Clinton. His grace had issue—Henry Pelham-Clinton, Earl of -Lincoln, who died during his father’s lifetime without male issue, and -Lord Thomas Pelham-Clinton, who succeeded to the titles and estates. - -Thomas Pelham-Clinton, third Duke of Newcastle, was born in 1752, and -married the Lady Anna Maria Stanhope, daughter of the second Earl of -Harrington, and by her had issue two sons and two daughters. He died in -1795, and was succeeded by his eldest son— - -Henry Pelham Pelham-Clinton, fourth Duke of Newcastle and eleventh Earl -of Lincoln, who held many local appointments, and was a man of high -attainments. He married, in 1807, Georgiana Elizabeth, daughter of -Edward Miller Mundy, Esq., of Shipley Hall, Derbyshire, and by her had -issue five daughters—viz. the Ladies Anna Maria, Georgiana, Charlotte, -Caroline Augusta, and Henrietta—and six sons, viz. Henry Pelham, -Earl of Lincoln (who succeeded him), and Lords Charles Pelham, Thomas -Charles Pelham, William, Edward, and Robert Renebald. His grace died in -1864, and was succeeded by his eldest son— - -Henry Fiennes Pelham-Clinton, as fifth duke. This nobleman was born -in 1811, and, as Earl of Lincoln, represented South Nottinghamshire -and the Falkirk burghs in Parliament. His grace, who was a man of the -highest integrity, was the confidential friend of H.R.H. the Prince of -Wales (who visited Clumber in 1861), was successively Lord Warden of -the Stannaries, Chief Secretary for Ireland, Secretary of State for the -Colonies, and Secretary of State for War. He married, in 1832, the Lady -Susan Harriet Catherine, daughter of the tenth Duke of Hamilton (which -marriage was dissolved in 1850, the Duchess in 1860 being married to -M. Opdebeck, of Brussels), and by her had issue three sons and one -daughter. These were—the present duke (of whom directly); Lord Edward -William Pelham-Clinton, born in 1836, married to Matilda, daughter of -Sir W. E. Cradock-Hartopp, Bart.; Lord Arthur Pelham-Clinton, M.P., -born 1840, who died in 1870; Lord Albert Sydney Pelham-Clinton, born in -1845, and married to Frances Evelyn, widow of Captain E. Stotherd; and -the late Lady Susan Charlotte Catherine Pelham-Clinton, born in 1839, -married to Lord Adolphus Frederick Charles William Vane-Tempest, son of -the third Marquis of Londonderry. - -The present head of this illustrious house, Henry Pelham Alexander -Pelham-Clinton, sixth Duke of Newcastle, of Newcastle-under-Lyme, and -thirteenth Earl of Lincoln, was born in 1834, and educated at Eton and -at Christ Church, Oxford. He sat, when Earl of Lincoln, for Newark, and -was attached to Lord Grenville’s mission to Russia in 1856. In 1861 his -grace married Henrietta Adela, only daughter of the late Henry Thomas -Hope, Esq., of Deepdene, Surrey, and Castle Blaney, county Monaghan (by -his wife, the Hon. Gertrude Elphinstone, daughter of the fourteenth -Lord Elphinstone), by whom he has issue living—Henry Pelham Archibald -Douglas, Earl of Lincoln, born in 1864; Lord Henry Francis Hope -Pelham-Clinton, born in 1866; the Lady Beatrice Adeline Pelham-Clinton, -born in 1862; and the Lady Emily Augusta Mary Pelham-Clinton, born in -1863. - -The arms of the Duke of Newcastle are—quarterly, first and fourth -_argent_, six cross-crosslets, three, two, and one, _sable_, on a -chief, _azure_, two mullets pierced, _or_, for Clinton; second and -third, the two coats of Pelham, quarterly, viz. first and fourth -_azure_, three pelicans vulning themselves, _argent_, second and third -_gules_, two pieces of belts with buckles erect, in pale, the buckles -upwards, _argent_ (being an augmentation in commemoration of the part -Sir William Pelham took in the capture of the French king at the battle -of Poictiers). Crests—first, out of a ducal coronet, _gules_, a plume -of five ostrich feathers, _argent_, banded _azure_, for Clinton; -second, a peacock in pride, _proper_, for Pelham. Supporters—two -greyhounds, _argent_, plain collared and lined, _gules_. - -His grace is patron of ten livings—viz. Worksop, Shireoaks, Cromwell, -Elksley, Bothansall, Brinsley, Markham Clinton, East Markham, Kirton, -and Mapplebeck. - -It will not be necessary to describe minutely any of the apartments -of this “Home” of the Newcastles—Clumber. The house has been said, -very absurdly, to be “a second Chatsworth,” and that “it embraces -magnificence and comfort more than any other nobleman’s mansion in -England;” but it is not so. It is a noble mansion, some of its rooms -being characterized by great elegance and beauty, and by pureness of -taste, while others are of a more mediocre character. To some of the -apartments and their contents we proceed to direct attention. - -The Entrance Hall, with an arcade supporting its ceiling, contains, -among other works of Art, a semi-colossal statue of Napoleon, which has -usually been ascribed to Canova, but has also, with reason, been stated -to be Franzoni’s reproduction of Chaudet’s great work: it was purchased -at Carrara, in 1823, by the then Duke of Newcastle. In the same hall, -besides others, are Bailey’s statue of the poet Thomson, a fine figure -of Paris, and busts of the Duke of Newcastle by Nollekens, Sir Robert -Peel, Cromwell, Verschaffer’s Triton and Dolphins, &c. - -The Library, perhaps the finest apartment in the mansion, is a noble -room, of large size and lofty proportions, and fitted in a style of -great magnificence. The geometric ceiling is richly decorated, and -around the upper part of the room is a light and elegant gallery. -Besides the choice collections of rare old books, and those of more -modern times, which are arranged round the walls of the Library and the -Reading-room (to which access is gained by a lofty arch springing from -pilasters of the composite order), they contain Sir R. Westmacott’s -noble statue of Euphrosyne, Bailey’s Thetis and Achilles, many good -bronzes, and an assemblage of objects of _virtu_. From the windows -of these rooms fine views of the Grounds, the Park, and the Lake are -obtained. - -The State Dining-room, an elegant apartment, has a richly decorated -geometric ceiling and a recessed buffet, the recess being formed by -well-proportioned Corinthian columns. The rich cornice, the gilt -festoons that adorn the walls, the mirrors between the windows, the -antique Venetian crystal-glass chandelier and side lights, and the -silver-gilt service on the buffets give a sumptuous air to the room, -while the four magnificent Snyders, and the other fine old paintings -which adorn the walls, add materially to its beauty. - -The principal Drawing-room, hung with satin damask, and the furniture -of the most costly and elegant character, is a noble apartment, and -contains, besides Lawrence’s portraits of the fourth Duke of Newcastle -and his duchess, good examples of the Carracci, Vandyke, Castiglione, -and others; while in the Crimson Drawing-room are pictures by -Rembrandt, Rubens, Poussin, Guido Reni, and Canaletti. - -The Grand Staircase, with its iron-work railing, originally described -as being “curiously wrought and gilt in the shape of crowns, with -tassels hanging down between them from cords twisted in knots and -festoons,” has stained-glass windows, and is enriched with a number of -portraits and other paintings. Among the portraits are Pitt, Thomson, -Scott, Southey, Campbell, King George II., Queen Caroline, Prince -Rupert, Dante, Cowley, and Hatton; and among the other paintings are -examples of Snyders, Westall, Van Oss, Andrea Sacchi, Lely, Shackleton, -Diepenbeck, and others. - -The other apartments—the Breakfast-room, Billiard-room, Smoking-rooms, -Ante-rooms, and what not—as well as the bed-room suites, are mostly -elegant in their fittings, convenient in their appointments, and -replete with choice works of Art. We, however, pass them over, simply -remarking that among these Art treasures are striking examples of -Gainsborough (the “Beggar Boys”), Gerard Douw, Poussin, Borgognone, -Neefs, Van der Meulin, Carlo Dolce (the “Marriage of St. Catherine”), -Vandyke, Titian, Rembrandt, Breughel, Ruysdael, Teniers, Lely, -Rubens (his wife), Andrea del Sarto, Salvator Rosa, Claude Lorraine, -Wouvermans, Hogarth (portraits of himself and wife), Reynolds, Jansen, -Holbein, Van Loo, Creswick, Dahl, Domenichino, Dobson, Rigaud, -Cranach, Kneller, and others. Many of these are gems of Art of a high -order of excellence. - -[Illustration] - -At Clumber, too, are preserved four highly interesting Roman sepulchral -altars, which were thus described by the Rev. Archdeacon Trollope, -with the accompanying engravings:[53]—“No. 1 bears the following -inscription on the two small front panels: M. CAEDICI . FAVSTI . -NEGOTIATOR . DE . SACRA . VIA . CAEDICIA . SYNTYCHE . CONLIBERTA—one -that is interesting as bearing reference to a tradesman of the -celebrated _Via Sacra_ at Rome. The birds pecking at a basket of fruit -between them would seem to claim a Christian origin for this work of -Art, had not the ox’s head and pendent sacrificial garland in addition -to the heads at the angles—apparently of Jupiter Ammon—pointed to -heathenism; the garland intermixed with birds, below the inscription, -is both rich and graceful. No. 2 rises from an enriched plinth, -bearing, first, on the pediment of its coped lid, the inscription: D. -M. M. IVNI . IVNIANI, and, on a panel below, D. M. ANTONIA . TARENTINA -. CONIVGI . BENE . MERENTI . FECIT, forming a short but affectionate -epitaph from a wife to a husband, worthy in these respects of modern -imitation. Four masks are placed at the corners of the lid, and on -another part of the lid appears a boar, for which animal Tarentum was -famous. The figures sculptured in front perhaps represent one of the -funereal games. No. 3 is a well-designed coped urn, both its form and -details having received much careful attention. Within a long panel, -surrounded by an enriched moulding, is the inscription, TI . IVLIO -. FELICI . MANNEIA . TREPTEETTI . IVLIVS . PHILONICVS . HEREDES . -FECERVNT. No. 4 is a longer and lower urn than the others, having two -small panels prepared for inscriptions, which never appear to have been -filled up. Small fanciful pillars, or candelabra, surmounted by birds, -form the angles of the urn, from which depend rich garlands of fruit.” - -[Illustration] - -Adjoining the mansion, but apart from it, is the unfinished Chapel—a -design of much elegance, the work of Messrs. Hine, of Nottingham—which -forms a prominent and pleasing feature from the grounds and lake. It -consists of a nave and chancel, with chancel-screen and semicircular -apse, and has on its north side an organ loft, and on its south a -sacristy; and it has an elegant bell-turret and spire. - -[Illustration] - -The Pleasure-grounds of Clumber are very extensive, and laid out with -much taste. The terrace, which runs along by the lake, is of vast -length, and is beautifully diversified with statuary, vases, lovely -beds of flowers, and shrubs and trees; from it flights of steps lead -down to the lake, and other steps give access to the Italian Gardens. A -great feature of the grounds is the enormous size and singular growth -of the cedars: some of these are said to be unsurpassed in England both -for their girth and for their magnificently picturesque and venerable -appearance. Some of the conifers, too, are of extraordinary size and -beauty. - -The Kitchen Gardens are extensive and well arranged, and the Park well -stocked. - -The Lake is one of the glories of Clumber. It is a splendid sheet of -water, covering some eighty or ninety acres of ground, and beautifully -diversified on its banks with woods of tall forest trees and rich -verdant glades. On the bosom of the Lake rest two ships—one a fine -three-master, forming a striking feature in the view. - -The neighbourhood of Clumber is rich in places of interest and -in lovely localities;[54] and its near proximity to Sherwood -Forest—indeed, it is itself a part of that forest reclaimed—to -Thoresby, to Hardwick Wood, to Welbeck, to Osberton, to Worksop and -its manor, to Bilhagh, to Rufford, and to a score of other inviting -localities, renders it one of the pleasantest, most desirable, and most -enjoyable of “Homes.” - - - - -WELBECK. - - -WELBECK, which we have chosen as the subject of our present chapter, -has a history, a character, an appearance, and an interest that are -entirely and peculiarly its own. In its external character it differs -very materially in many points from any other mansion yet built; while -its internal arrangements and means of access from one part to another -are so original, and so entirely distinct from what has anywhere else -been adopted, as at once to prove its noble owner, his Grace the Duke -of Portland, by whom it has been planned, and is being carried out, to -be a man of enlarged mind, of princely ideas, of noble conceptions, -of high engineering skill, and of great constructive ability. It is a -place, as we have said, entirely to itself, by itself, and of itself; -it is a place many of whose features, both in general plan and in -minute detail, might with advantage be taken as examples for others -to follow. Vying in extent with some of the largest mansions of the -kingdom, Welbeck cannot, like them, be all seen on the surface, for -many of its noblest and grandest features, and much of the finest and -most complicated parts of its constructive skill, are hidden away from -the general observer, and only flash upon him as brilliant creations -of genius when he is permitted to approach them by descending into the -“bowels of the earth;” then, and then only, does the magnificence of -the design of the noble owner become apparent, and then only does the -vastness of the work become manifest. But of these features we shall -speak presently; first let us say a few words upon its past history and -the changes it has undergone. - -[Illustration: _Welbeck, West Front and Oxford Wing._] - -Welbeck, with its broad domain, is situated in Nottinghamshire, about -four miles from Worksop, and close to the borders of the county of -Derby. Its parks are one grand succession of fine old forest trees, -and its herds of deer—for it has its herd of white deer, its herd -of fallow deer, and its separate herds of red and other deer—are of -great extent and of fine and noble quality. Before the Conquest Welbeck -was held by the Saxon Sweyn, but afterwards it passed to the Flemangs -as part of the manor of Cuckney. By Thomas de Cuckney (grandson of -Joceus de Flemang) the Abbey was founded, and here, in the reign of -Henry II., he planted a settlement of Præemonstratensian or White -Canons from Newhouse, in Lincolnshire, the first house in which they -were established in England. The Abbey was dedicated to St. James, and -endowed with grants of lands. These were from time to time considerably -augmented, and “in 1329 the Bishop of Ely bought the whole of the -manor of Cuckney, and settled it upon the Abbey on condition of their -finding eight canons who should enjoy the good things and pray for -Edward the Third and his queen, their children and ancestors, &c.; also -for the bishop’s father and mother, brother, &c.; ‘but especially for -the health of the said lord bishop whilst he lived, and after his death -for his soul, and for all theirs that had faithfully served him or done -him any good;’ to which was added this extraordinary injunction, that -they should observe his anniversary, and on their days of commemorating -the dead ‘should absolve his soul by name;’ a process whose frequent -repetition might naturally be considered as needless, unless the pious -bishop supposed that he might perhaps commit a few additional sins -whilst in purgatory.” - -In 1512, it is stated, the Abbey at Welbeck was made the head of the -order. At the dissolution it was granted to Richard Whalley, and -later on, after other changes, passed to Sir Charles Cavendish, of -whom we shall speak presently. By him the Abbey was converted into a -noble mansion, but little of the original religious house being left -standing, and these parts only used as cellars, or here and there a -wall, for the new building. The present mansion is said to have been -commenced in 1604, and was afterwards much altered and enlarged, the -riding-house being built in 1623, and the stables two years afterwards, -from the designs of John Smithson. By the late Duke of Portland many -alterations in the mansion were effected, and the grounds were also -much improved. - -We have just alluded to Sir Charles Cavendish, and this leads us on -to the consideration of the descent of the estates from his time down -to that of the present noble owner, and enables us to give, as is -our wont, a genealogical account of the great and important families -to whom Welbeck has belonged. The family of Cavendish, as already -more fully detailed in our account of Chatsworth, traces back to the -Conquest, when Robert de Gernon, who came over with the Conqueror, -so distinguished himself in arms that he was rewarded with grants -of land in Hertfordshire, Gloucestershire, &c. His descendants held -considerable lands in Derbyshire, and Sir William Gernon obtained a -grant of a fair at Bakewell, in that county. He had two sons—Sir -Ralph de Gernon, Lord of Bakewell, and Geoffrey de Gernon, of Moor -Hall, near Bakewell. From the second of these, Geoffrey de Gernon, -the Cavendishes descend. His son, Roger de Gernon (who died in 1334), -married the heiress of John Potton, or Potkins, lord of the manor of -Cavendish, in Suffolk, and by her had issue four sons, who all assumed -the name of Cavendish from their mother’s manor. These were—Sir -John Cavendish, Chief Justice of the King’s Bench in the time of -Edward III., and Chancellor of Cambridge, 4th of Richard II., who was -beheaded by the insurgents of Suffolk in that reign; Roger Cavendish, -from whom descended the celebrated navigator, Sir Thomas Cavendish; -Stephen Cavendish, Lord Mayor, member of Parliament, and Sheriff of -London; and Richard Cavendish. Sir John married Alice, daughter of -Sir John Odyngseles, Chief Justice of the King’s Bench, who brought -to her husband the manor of Cavendish-Overhall, and by her, who died -before him, had issue two sons—Andrew and John—and a daughter, Alice, -married to William Nell. Sir Andrew Cavendish, the eldest son, was -Sheriff of Norfolk and Suffolk. By his wife, Rose, he left issue one -son, William, from whom the estate passed to his cousin. Sir Andrew -was succeeded by his brother, Sir John Cavendish, Esquire of the Body -to Richard II. and Henry V., who, for his gallant conduct in killing -Wat Tyler, in his conflict with Sir William Walworth, was knighted by -Richard II. in Smithfield, and an annuity of £40 per annum granted to -him and his sons for ever. He was also made Broiderer of the Wardrobe -to the King. He married Joan, daughter of Sir William Clopton, of -Clopton, in Suffolk, and by her had issue three sons—William, his -successor; Robert, serjeant-at-law; and Walter. William Cavendish, who -was a citizen and mercer of London, and of Cavendish-Overhall, married -Joan Staventon, by whom he had two sons—Thomas and William. This -Thomas Cavendish, who was of Cavendish and Pollingford, in Suffolk, -married Katharine Scudamore, and left by her, as son and heir, Sir -Thomas Cavendish, who, having studied the law, was employed by Thomas, -Earl of Surrey, Treasurer of the King’s Exchequer. He was also Clerk of -the Pipe in the Exchequer to Henry VIII. He married twice, and left, -by his first wife, Alice, daughter and co-heiress of John Smith, of -Podbroke Hall, besides other issue, three sons—George Cavendish, Sir -William Cavendish, and Sir Thomas Cavendish. - -George Cavendish, the eldest of these three sons, was of Glemsford and -Cavendish-Overhall, and is said to have been the author of “Cavendish’s -Life of Wolsey,” although the authorship of that work has also been -attributed to his brother, Sir William Cavendish. He received a -liberal education, and was endowed by his father with considerable -landed property in Suffolk. His character and learning seem to have -recommended him to the special notice of Cardinal Wolsey, who “took him -to be about his own person, as gentleman usher of his chamber, and -placed a special confidence in him.” George Cavendish was succeeded by -his son William, and ultimately the manor of Cavendish-Overhall passed -to William Downes. Sir Thomas Cavendish was one of the knights of St. -John of Jerusalem, and died unmarried. - -[Illustration: _Arms of Cavendish._] - -Sir William Cavendish, the second son of the first Sir Thomas, became -the founder of the ducal House of Devonshire and of several other -noble families. He was married three times: first, to a daughter of -Edward Bostock, of Whatcross, in Cheshire; secondly, to a daughter -of Sir Thomas Conyngsby, and widow of William Paris; and, thirdly, -to Elizabeth, daughter of John Hardwick, of Hardwick, and widow of -Robert Barley, of Barley, all in the county of Derby. He was “a man of -learning and business,” and was much employed in important affairs by -his sovereigns, filling the posts of Treasurer of the Chamber and Privy -Councillor to Henry VIII., Edward VI., and Mary. At the suppression -of the religious houses under Henry VIII. he was “appointed one of -the commissioners for visiting them, and afterwards was made one of -the auditors of the Court of Augmentation,” which was instituted for -the purpose of augmenting the revenues by the suppression of the -monasteries. For his services he received three valuable manors in -Hertfordshire, which, later on, he exchanged for lands in Derbyshire -and other counties. He was also knighted by Henry VIII. By his first -wife he had issue one son and two daughters who died young, and two -other daughters, one of whom, Catherine, married Sir Thomas Brooke, -son of Lord Cobham, and the other, Anne, married Sir Henry Baynton. -By his second wife he had three daughters, who all died young, and -she herself died in child-birth. By his third marriage with “Bess of -Hardwick” he had a numerous family—viz. Henry Cavendish, of Tutbury, -member of Parliament for Derbyshire, who married Grace, daughter of -George, Earl of Shrewsbury, but died without lawful issue; Sir William -Cavendish, created Earl of Devonshire, and direct ancestor of the -Dukes of Devonshire; Sir Charles Cavendish, of Bolsover Castle and of -Welbeck Abbey, ancestor of the Dukes of Newcastle, Portland, &c. (of -whom presently); Frances, married to Sir Henry Pierrepoint, ancestor to -the Dukes of Kingston; Elizabeth, married to Charles Stuart, Duke of -Lennox (younger brother of Lord Darnley, the husband of Mary, Queen -of Scots, and father of King James I.), the issue of which marriage -was the sadly unfortunate Lady Arabella Stuart; and Mary, married to -Gilbert, Earl of Shrewsbury. - -[Illustration: _Arms of Hardwick._] - -Of the Countess of Shrewsbury, “Bess of Hardwick,” mother of the -founder of this house, it will now be well to say a few words. The -family to which she belonged, and of which she eventually became -heiress, that of Hardwick, of Hardwick was one of considerable -antiquity in the county of Derby. One of the family, William Hardwick, -married the heiress of Goushill, of Barlborough, and by her had two -sons, the eldest of whom, Roger Hardwick, married the daughter of -Robert Barley, of Barley, and had issue by her, John, who married -Elizabeth, daughter of Henry Bakewell, of Bakewell. Their son, John -Hardwick, married Elizabeth Pinchbeck, of Pinchbeck, and was succeeded -by his son, John Hardwick, who espoused Elizabeth, daughter of -Thomas Leake, of Hasland, of the same family as the Leakes, Earls of -Scarsdale. By this marriage John Hardwick, who died in 1527, had issue -one son—John Hardwick—and four daughters—Mary, Elizabeth, Alice, -and Jane. The son, John, who was only three years old at his father’s -death, married Elizabeth, daughter of Philip Draycott, of Paynsley, -but died without issue, leaving his four sisters his co-heiresses. Of -these Elizabeth, afterwards Countess of Shrewsbury, inherited Hardwick -and other estates. When very young—indeed, it is said when scarcely -fourteen years of age—she married Robert Barley, of Barley (son of -Arthur Barley, of Barley-by-Dronfield, in Derbyshire, by his wife, -Elizabeth Chaworth), who died a few months after marriage, leaving -his possessions to her and her heirs. By this short-lived marriage -she had no issue, and, after remaining a widow for some twelve years -or so, she married, as his third wife, Sir William Cavendish, by whom -she had a numerous issue, as will be presently shown. To Sir William -Cavendish this remarkable lady brought not only Hardwick and the other -possessions of her own family, but also those of the Barleys, which -she had acquired by her first marriage. Sir William died in 1557, and -a few years later his widow married, as her third husband, Sir William -St. Loe, or Santloe, Captain of the Guard to Queen Elizabeth, who -settled the whole of his estates upon her and her heirs, and thus -greatly added to her already immense possessions. By this marriage -there was no issue, and, on the death of Sir William St. Loe, she -was a third time left a widow. Soon afterwards she married, as his -second wife (he being, of course, her fourth husband), George, sixth -Earl of Shrewsbury, stipulating, however, that the Earl’s eldest -daughter, the Lady Grace Talbot, should marry her eldest son, Sir Henry -Cavendish, and that his second son, Gilbert Talbot (eventually Earl of -Shrewsbury), should marry her youngest daughter, Mary Cavendish. These -family nuptials were solemnised at Sheffield on the 9th of February, -1567-8, the younger of the two couples being at the time only about -fifteen and twelve years of age respectively. - -[Illustration: _Autograph of the Countess of Shrewsbury._] - -The events of the Countess of Shrewsbury’s life are so thoroughly mixed -up with those of the stirring times of the kingdom at large, more -especially during the period when the truly unfortunate Mary, Queen -of Scots, was in the custody of the Earl and his countess, that it is -unnecessary here to enter into them. By the Earl of Shrewsbury the -Countess had no issue, and he dying in 1590, she, “Bess of Hardwick,” -became, for the fourth time, a widow. “A change of conditions,” says -Bishop Kennet, “that perhaps never fell to the lot of one woman, to -be four times a creditable and happy wife; to rise by every husband -into greater wealth and higher honours; to have a numerous issue by -one husband only; to have all those children live, and all by her -advice be creditably disposed of in her lifetime; and, after all, -to live seventeen years a widow in absolute power and plenty.” The -Countess, as we have before written, “besides being one of the most -beautiful, accomplished, and captivating women of her day, was, -without exception, the most energetic, business-like, and able of her -sex. In architecture her conceptions were grand, while in all matters -pertaining to the arts, and to the comforts and elegancies of life, -she was unsurpassed. To the old hall of her fathers, where she was -born and resided, she made vast additions, and she entirely planned -and built three of the most gorgeous edifices of the time—Hardwick -Hall, Chatsworth, and Oldcotes—the first two of which were transmitted -entire to the first Duke of Devonshire. The latter part of her -long and busy life she occupied almost entirely in building, and -it is marvellous what an amount of real work—hard figures and dry -details—she got through; for it is a fact, abundantly evidenced by -the original accounts remaining to this day, that not a penny was -expended on her buildings, and not a detail added or taken away, -without her special attention and personal supervision. Building was a -passion with her, and she indulged it wisely and well, sparing neither -time, nor trouble, nor outlay to secure everything being done in the -most admirable manner. It is said, and it is so recorded by Walpole, -that the Countess had once been told by a gipsy fortune-teller that -she would never die so long as she continued building, and she so -implicitly believed this that she never ceased planning and contriving -and adding to her erections; and it is said that at last she died in a -hard frost, which totally prevented the workmen from continuing their -labours, and so caused an unavoidable suspension of her works. Surely -the fortune-teller here was a “wise woman” in more senses than one, -for it was wise and cunning in her to instil such a belief into the -Countess’s mind, and thus insure a continuance of the works by which so -many workmen and their families gained a livelihood, and by which later -generations would also benefit. Besides Chatsworth, Hardwick, Oldcotes, -and other places, the Countess founded and built the Devonshire -Almshouses at Derby, and did many other good and noble works. She died, -full of years and full of honours and riches, on the 23rd of February, -1607, and was buried in All Saints’ Church, Derby, under a stately tomb -which she had erected during her lifetime, and on which a long Latin -inscription is to be seen.” - -By her second husband, Sir William Cavendish, she alone had issue. -These were, as already detailed, Sir Henry Cavendish, of Tutbury, who -married the Lady Grace Talbot; Sir William Cavendish, created Earl of -Devonshire, from whom the Dukes of Devonshire and other lines of peers -are lineally descended; Sir Charles Cavendish, the founder of the -noble House of Newcastle; Frances, married to Sir Henry Pierrepoint, -ancestor of the Dukes of Kingston; Elizabeth, married to Charles -Stuart, Duke of Lennox, and mother of Lady Arabella Stuart; and Mary, -married to Gilbert, Earl of Shrewsbury. It is with the third of these, -Sir Charles Cavendish, that we have now to do. - -Sir Charles Cavendish married Elizabeth, daughter and heiress of -Cuthbert, Lord Ogle, and Baroness Ogle in her own right. He left issue -by his first wife, Margaret Kitson, three sons—Charles, who died -an infant; William, created Duke of Newcastle; and Sir Charles, of -Bolsover. Dying in 1617, the estates passed to the eldest surviving -son, William Cavendish, who became one of the greatest men of the age. - -Sir William was successively created Baron Cavendish, of Bolsover, in -the county of Derby, Baron Ogle, Viscount Mansfield, Earl of Newcastle, -Earl of Ogle, Marquis of Newcastle, and Duke of Newcastle, was a Knight -of the Garter, and held many very important appointments. He was a -staunch Royalist, and suffered many losses and privations through his -wise adherence to the royal cause. He fortified the town of Newcastle, -the Castle of Bolsover, and other places, and did good service in -overcoming the Parliamentarian forces at Gainsborough, Chesterfield, -Bradford, and many other places. His grace built the greater part of -Welbeck, including the famous riding-house, yet standing, and the -stables. He was the most accomplished horseman of the time, and his -name will ever remain known as the author of the finest, most learned, -and most extensive work on horsemanship ever written. The original MS. -of this marvellous treatise is carefully preserved at Welbeck Abbey, -and copies of the work, especially the first French edition, with all -the original plates, are of great rarity. He also wrote some volumes of -poetry. The “Horsemanship” is particularly interesting to an historian -of Welbeck, from the many plates in which views of the mansion as it -then existed are given: to these we may again refer. - -The Duke was married twice. First, to Elizabeth, daughter and sole -heiress of William Bassett, of Blore and Langley, Derbyshire, and -widow of the Hon. Henry Howard, third son of the Earl of Suffolk and -Berkshire; and, secondly, to Margaret, daughter of Sir Charles Lucas, -and maid of honour to Queen Henrietta. By his first wife the Duke had -issue ten children, six sons and four daughters, of whom five died -young. - -[Illustration: _Margaret (Lucas), Duchess of Newcastle._] - -The surviving sons were Charles, who died during his father’s -lifetime without issue, and Henry, who succeeded to the titles and -estates; and the three surviving daughters were—Mary, married to -Charles Cheney, of Chesham-Boys; Elizabeth, married to the Earl of -Bridgewater; and Frances, married to Lord Bolingbroke. By his second -wife, Margaret Lucas, the Duke had no issue; but to this lady, who -was of rare accomplishments and virtues—“a very learned lady and -a philosopher”—the world is indebted for many valuable writings. -Foremost among these is the admirable and interesting “Life” of her -husband, the Duke of Newcastle, to which too much justice for its -truthfulness, its precision of details, and its purity of affection -cannot be done. It is a “book for all time,” and to it we refer our -readers who may desire to peruse a worthy memoir of a worthy man. The -Duchess died in 1673, and the Duke three years afterwards: they are -buried under a magnificent monument in Westminster Abbey, where the -following is one of the inscriptions:—“Here lyes the Loyall Duke of -Newcastle and his Dutchess his second wife, by whom he had no issue: -Her name was Margarett Lucas, youngest sister to the Lord Lucas, of -Colchester; a noble familie, for all the brothers were valiant, and all -the sisters virtuous. This Dutchess was a wise, wittie, and learned -lady, which her many books do well testifie; she was a most virtuous -and a loveing and carefull wife, and was with her Lord all the time of -his banishment and miseries, and when he came home never parted from -him in his solitary retirements.” - -Henry, second Duke, Marquis, and Earl of Newcastle, Earl and Baron of -Ogle, Viscount Mansfield, Baron Cavendish of Bolsover, and Baron Bothal -and Hepple, and a Knight of the Garter, succeeded his father, the first -duke. He married Frances Pierrepoint, of Thoresby, granddaughter of -the Earl of Kingston, by whom he had issue three sons (only one of -whom lived) and five daughters. The son, Henry Cavendish, Viscount -Mansfield, married a daughter of Percy, Duke of Northumberland, -whose name he assumed, but died during his father’s lifetime without -surviving issue. The daughters were—Elizabeth, married, first, to the -Earl of Albemarle, and, secondly, to the Duke of Montague; Frances, -married to the Earl of Bredalbane; Catherine, married to the Earl of -Thanet; Arabella, married to the Earl of Sunderland; and Margaret, -married to John Holles, Earl of Clare, afterwards Duke of Newcastle. -The second duke died in 1671, and the titles, in default of male issue, -then became extinct. - -[Illustration: _Arms of Holles._] - -By the marriage of the Lady Margaret Cavendish with John Holles, fourth -Earl of Clare, Welbeck and other estates of the Duke of Newcastle -passed into his hands. In 1694 the Earl of Clare was created Duke of -Newcastle. His grace died at Welbeck, through a fall from his horse, -in 1711, and the title thus again became extinct. He left issue an -only daughter, the Lady Henrietta Cavendish Holles, who married -Edward Harley, second Earl of Oxford and Mortimer, and thus conveyed -the Welbeck and Bolsover estates to that nobleman. The issue of this -marriage was an only daughter and heiress, the Lady Margaret Cavendish -Harley, who married William Bentinck, Duke of Portland. and thus -carried the Cavendish estates into that illustrious family. She died in -1785. - -[Illustration: _Arms of Bentinck._] - -William Bentinck, the first Earl of Portland, was a member of the -illustrious family of Bentinck, of Holland, and came over on his -first visit to England as page of honour to William, Prince of Orange -(afterwards King William III.), and was ambassador to this country -to arrange the marriage of that prince with our Princess Mary. On -the accession of William III. William Bentinck was created Baron of -Cirencester, Viscount Woodstock, and Earl of Portland, and had many -important appointments conferred upon him. He married, first, Anne, -daughter to Sir Edward Villiers and sister of the Earl of Jersey, by -whom he had issue three sons (one of whom only survived and succeeded -him) and five daughters—viz. the Lady Mary, married to the Earl -of Essex, and afterwards to the Hon. Conyers D’Arcy; the Lady Anne -Margaretta, married to M. Duyvenvorde, one of the principal nobles -of Holland; the Lady Frances Wilhelmina, married to Lord Byron; the -Lady Eleanora, who died unmarried; and the Lady Isabella, married -to the Duke of Kingston. His lordship married, secondly, Jane, -daughter of Sir John Temple, sister of Lord Palmerston, and widow of -John, Lord Berkeley of Stratton, and by her had issue two sons and -four daughters—viz. the Hon. William, who married the Countess of -Aldenburgh; the Hon. Charles John, who married the daughter and heiress -of the Earl of Cadogan; the Lady Sophia, married to Henry de Grey, -Duke of Kent; the Lady Elizabeth, married to the Bishop of Hereford, -brother to the second Duke of Bridgewater; the Lady Harriette, married -to Viscount Limerick; and the Lady Barbara, married to Godolphin, Dean -of St. Paul’s. The Earl died in 1735, and was succeeded by his son— - -Henry, second Earl of Portland, who married the Lady Elizabeth Noel, -eldest daughter of the Earl of Gainsborough, by whom he received, with -other accessions, the lordship of Tichfield and its manor-house. His -lordship, who was advanced to the dignities of Marquis of Tichfield -and Duke of Portland, and held many important appointments, had issue -three sons and seven daughters, whereof two sons and three daughters -survived him. These were—William second Duke of Portland; Lord George -Bentinck, aide-de-camp to King George II.; the Lady Anne, married to -Lieutenant-colonel Paul; the Lady Anne Isabella, married to Henry -Monk, Esq.; and the Lady Emilia Catherine, married to Jacob Arrant Van -Wassenar, a noble of Holland. - -William, second Duke of Portland, was born in 1709, and married, in -1734, the Lady Margaret Cavendish Harley, daughter and sole heiress of -the Earl of Oxford by his countess, daughter and sole heiress of John -Holles, Duke of Newcastle, who thus brought the estates of Welbeck, -&c., to the Bentinck family. By this union his grace had issue three -sons and three daughters. These were—the Lady Elizabeth Cavendish -Bentinck, married to the Marquis of Thomond; Lady Henrietta Cavendish -Bentinck, married to the Earl of Stamford; William Henry Cavendish -Bentinck, Marquis of Tichfield (his successor), of whom presently; Lady -Margaret Cavendish Bentinck and Lady Frances Cavendish Bentinck, who -died young; and Lord Edward Charles Cavendish Bentinck, who married -Elizabeth Cumberland, and had numerous issue. The Duke died in 1762, -and was succeeded in his titles and estates by his eldest son— - -William Henry Cavendish Bentinck, as third Duke of Portland. This -nobleman, who was born in 1738, married, in 1766, the Lady Dorothy -Cavendish, only daughter of William, fourth Duke of Devonshire, and -by her had issue four sons and two daughters. These were—William -Henry, Marquis of Tichfield (his successor); General Lord William Henry -Cavendish Bentinck, Governor-General of India, who married a daughter -of the Earl of Gosford; Lady Charlotte Bentinck, married to Charles -Greville, Esq.; Lady Mary Bentinck; Lord William Charles Augustus -Cavendish Bentinck, who married, first, Miss G. A. F. Seymour, and, -secondly, Anne, daughter of the Marquis Wellesley, and divorced wife of -Sir William Addy; and Major-General Lord Frederick Cavendish Bentinck, -who married the Lady Mary Lowther, daughter of William, first Earl of -Lonsdale of the second creation, and by her, with other issue, became -father of the present Right Hon. George Augustus Frederick Cavendish -Bentinck, M.P. for Whitehaven, and a member of the Administration. The -noble Duke died in 1809, and was succeeded by his eldest son— - -William Henry, fourth Duke of Portland, who was born in 1768, -married in 1795 Henrietta, eldest daughter and co-heiress of General -John Scott, of Balconnie, county Fife, by whom he received a large -accession of property. His grace, by royal sign manual, assumed the -additional surname and arms of Scott, thus altering the family name to -Scott-Bentinck. By this marriage his grace had issue four sons and -four daughters. These were—William Henry Cavendish Scott-Bentinck, -Marquis of Tichfield, who died unmarried during his father’s lifetime; -the Lady Henrietta; William John, Marquis of Tichfield, who succeeded -to the dukedom and estates; Major Lord William George Frederick -Cavendish Scott-Bentinck (known as Lord George Bentinck), the eminent -statesman and patriot, who died in 1848, to whom a fine Gothic -memorial, somewhat after the manner of the “Martyrs’ Memorial,” has -been erected by public subscription at Mansfield, from the design of -Mr. T. C. Hine. It bears the following inscription:— - - “To the memory of Lord George Frederick Cavendish Bentinck, second - surviving son of William Henry Cavendish-Scott, fourth Duke of - Portland. He died the 21st day of September, An. Dom. MDCCCXLVIII., - in the forty-seventh year of his age. His ardent patriotism and - uncompromising honesty were only equalled by the persevering zeal and - extraordinary talents which called forth the grateful homage of those - who, in erecting this memorial, pay a heartfelt tribute to exertions - which prematurely brought to the grave one who might long have lived - the pride of this his native county.” - -Lord Henry William Cavendish Scott-Bentinck; the Lady Charlotte, -married to John Evelyn Denison, M.P.; the Lady Lucy, married to Lord -Howard de Walden; and the Lady Mary. His grace, who was a fellow of -the Royal Society, a trustee of the British Museum, and a man of high -scientific attainments, died in 1854, and was succeeded by his eldest -surviving son, the present noble head of this illustrious house. - -William John Cavendish Scott-Bentinck, the present peer, fifth Duke of -Portland, Marquis of Tichfield, Earl of Portland, Viscount Woodstock, -Baron of Cirencester, and a co-heir to the barony of Ogle, was born on -the 17th of September, 1800, and represented the borough of Lynn in -Parliament. In 1854 he succeeded his father in the titles and estates. -The Duke, who is unmarried, is a trustee of the British Museum, and -a deputy-lieutenant of the county of Nottingham. His grace, who is a -man of the most refined taste in all matters of Art, an accomplished -scholar, and of high attainments, is patron of thirteen livings—viz. -Hendon, in Middlesex; Hucknall-Torkard, Sutton-cum-Lound, Cotham, -Kirkby-in-Ashfield, Gotham, and Sibthorpe, in Nottinghamshire; Bredon, -in Worcestershire; Elsworth, in Cambridgeshire; Whitwell, Elmton, and -Bolsover, in Derbyshire; and Bothal, in Northumberland. - -The arms of the Duke of Portland are—quarterly, 1st and 4th grand -quarters, quarterly 1 and 4, _azure_, a cross moline, _argent_ (for -Bentinck) 2 and 3, _sable_, three stags’ heads caboshed, _argent_, a -crescent for difference (for Cavendish), 2nd and 3rd grand quarters, -_or_, on a bend, _azure_, a mullet of six points between two crescents, -_or_, within a bordure engrailed, _gules_ (for Scott). Crests—1st, out -of a marquis’s coronet, _proper_, two arms counter embowed, vested, -_gules_, on the hands gloves, _or_, each holding an ostrich feather, -_or_ (for Bentinck); 2nd, a snake nowed, _proper_ (for Cavendish). -Supporters—two lions, double queued, the dexter one _or_, the sinister -one _sable_. Motto—“Craignez honte.” - -[Illustration: _Arms of the Duke of Portland._] - -The Duke of Portland’s seats are—Welbeck Abbey, Nottinghamshire; -Fullarton House, Troon, Ayrshire; Langwell, Goldspie, Caithness; Bothal -Castle, Northumberland; Harcourt House, Cavendish Square; and Hyde Park -Gardens. - -The heir-presumptive to the titles and estates of the Duke of Portland -is his grace’s cousin, Major-general Arthur Cavendish Bentinck, -youngest son of the late Lord William Charles Augustus Cavendish -Bentinck, brother of the fourth duke. He was born in 1819, and married, -first, in 1857, a daughter of Sir Vincent Whitshed, Bart., who died in -1858 (by whom he has a son, William John Arthur Charles James Cavendish -Bentinck); and, secondly, in 1862, Augusta Mary Elizabeth, daughter of -the Hon. and Very Rev. Henry Montague Browne, Dean of Lismore, by whom -he has also issue. - -The earliest views of the mansion of Welbeck are those which occur -on the magnificent folio plates which accompany the Duke (at -that time Marquis) of Newcastle’s splendid and matchless work on -“Horsemanship”[55] in 1658. The plates are all splendidly engraved from -Diepenbeck’s drawings, and are among the most valuable illustrations -of the period left to us. One of these plates gives a general view of -Welbeck (“La Maison de Welbeck appartenant à Monseigneur le Marquis -de Newcastle, le quel est dans la Province de Nottingham”), showing -an extensive building four stories in height, and partly enclosed -with battlemented and other walls; the end having three gables, with -a central doorway, and the side of three distinct lengths. The main -building, that with the three gables, is four stories in height, with -mullioned and transomed windows, hipped windows in the roof, and -ornamental clustered chimney-shafts; the next portion three stories -high, and three windows in width, with rustic arched doorway, windows -of three semicircular-headed lights, and hipped windows in the roof; -and the third portion two stories in height, with a noble portico -approached by steps, and an outer gateway. Of this we give a carefully -reduced engraving. - -[Illustration: _Part of Welbeck in 1658._] - -Another plate shows a different part of the mansion—a façade twelve -windows in length, and two stories in height; the windows transomed and -mullioned, and the whole surmounted by a bold balustrade. Above the -building in one part rises a square tower, and in another part a larger -and more ornamental tower, with a circular domed flag-turret and -tall chimney-shafts. It has simply the name “Welbeck.” A third plate, -which is extremely interesting, shows the exterior of the Riding-house -(still standing, but now converted to other uses), “Le Manege couert -voute de bois large de 40 pieds, longe de 120 pieds,” and “La boutique -du Marechall,” or the house of the officer in charge of the horses. -Adjoining the Riding-house is a noble sculptured Entrance Gateway. The -fourth engraving is the most elaborate, and certainly most interesting -of the whole. Over the main portion of the piles of buildings—that -to the left, with a central and two side doors, pilastered front, -series of windows, domed circular towers, and ornamental cornice—is -the inscription, “L’Ecurie voutèe de pierre, les piliers de pierre, la -mangeoire de pierre à l’Italienne, et une fontaine qui coule le long de -la mangeoire, et se rend dans une voute au dessous ou coule un petit -ruisseau. Contre la teste de Chague Cheval il y a une petite cheminèe -pour l’haleine du Cheval, la quelle, s’ouvre se ferme, selon a chaleur, -ou froideur; Elle est parè de pierre de taille.” Over the next portion, -which is four stories high, pilastered, and seven windows in length, -is the name “Le Grenier de l’Ecurie.” Next comes the gateway with -the noble residence above it, and then the other buildings, bearing -above them the inscription, “Il y a d’autres Ecuries pour quatre-vint -chevaux.” - -Another plate is a fine view of the Park at Welbeck, with a noble -avenue of trees in the centre, and abundance of deer, with hunting, -shooting, &c. It is entitled “Le Parc de Welbeck appartenant à -Monseigneur le Marquis de Newcastle. Le Parc est dans la Province de -Nottingham.” A spirited equestrian figure of the Marquis is introduced -in the foreground. - -The old Riding-house of the Duke of Newcastle still stands, as we -have said, but has been denuded of its internal arrangements, and -converted to a nobler purpose. The old “bell-boxes” for horses, and -the coach-houses, which formerly occupied a considerable part of the -interior (leaving the Riding-house “longe de 120 pieds,” as named on -the engraving), have been entirely taken away, and the whole building -is now one grand room, 177 feet in length by 40 feet in width, and of -great and exquisitely proportionable height. It would form one of the -finest banqueting halls in existence. It has a massive open-work timber -roof of high pitch, and of admirable design. The timber-work has, -during the course of the decorations, been all painted white, the roof -itself being, with much taste, painted like a natural sky. The walls -are to some height wainscoted, and the folding doors at the ends of -the apartments, as well as the walls, are, with a marvellous effect, -covered with “looking-glass,” glass of the same character adorning the -side-walls. By this means a strikingly beautiful vista-like effect -is produced, and the whole room is rendered charmingly delightful. -From the roof are suspended a series of magnificent crystal-glass -chandeliers, and side-lights of the same kind are arranged along the -walls. Externally the roof is covered with copper, with admirable -effect, while two clock-towers add much to the general contour of the -building. These towers contain clocks that are marvels of constructive -skill. They are thus spoken of by their maker, Mr. Benson, in his “Time -and Time Tellers:”—“In a set of clock-calendars which I some time -since provided for his Grace the Duke of Portland, the clock showed -the time on four dials five feet-nine inches in diameter, chiming -quarters, hours, &c. (the well-known Cambridge chimes), on bells of 12 -cwt., repeating the hour after the first, second, and third quarters. -The two sides of an adjoining tower show a calendar which indicates -on special circles of a large dial, by means of three separate hands, -the month of the year, the day of the month, and the day of the week” -(needing no correction for the long and short months, nor even for the -month of February, with its occasional twenty-nine days). It has also -a wind dial, lettered with the four cardinal points and the twelve -intermediates; there is also an extra circle on the dial to mark the -age of the moon and the equation of time, so that each dial has four -circles, besides the circle of the moon, shifted simultaneously at -twelve o’clock every night by the complicated and wonderful mechanism -of its interior. - -Adjoining this noble room is a pile of building of exactly the same -size and character, devoted to kitchen and other domestic purposes, -with apartments over. The Kitchen is lofty, spacious, and well -arranged, and fitted with every possible convenience; the Servants’ -Hall, an admirable stone groined apartment, is near; and in the larders -and other offices fountains of clear water keep the air admirably -cool. From the Kitchen an underground railway with an hydraulic lift -is constructed for conveying the comestibles for serving in the -dining-rooms. - -It is not our intention to follow any regular order in briefly speaking -of the different rooms of this noble and unique mansion, but simply to -allude to some of them, and then to speak of the Stables, Gardens, and -outside arrangements. - -The Gothic Hall, a part of the old building, and altered and restored -by the Countess of Oxford in 1751, is a noble apartment in the centre -of the west front. The ceiling is of pendent fan-tracery of the most -elaborate design, and the whole of the decorations are of Gothic -character, in keeping with the ceiling. Over the fire-place rises an -elaborate Gothic canopy, in three arches, over the arms, with crest, -supporters, &c., of the Countess, and the letters - - HC - HOM - 1751. - -Over the doorways, beneath cusped Gothic arches, are also the arms of -Cavendish, with crescent for difference. This room, like every other -portion of the edifice, has been greatly improved by the taste of its -noble owner, and the mechanical skill of those employed by him: this is -evidenced in a remarkably ingenious and original contrivance for the -raising and lowering of the sashes of the windows, and in other ways. -The suite of rooms in this pile of building consists, among others, of -the Dining-room, admirably furnished, and hung with a fine collection -of paintings; the Small Drawing-room, an exquisite Doric apartment, -in which, among other Art treasures, are some of the finest existing -samples of Snyders, Rembrandt’s masterly portrait of himself, and the -grand picture of St. Cecilia, as well as some sumptuous inlaid ivory -furniture; the Drawing-room, filled with the choicest of pictures and -the most superb of furniture; the Saloon, &c. From the windows of these -apartments, looking to the east, lovely views are obtained of the Lawns -and Italian Gardens, planted with shrubs and laid out in exquisite -taste, with beds of gorgeously coloured flowers; the Lake, with its -broad expanse of water, some three miles or more in length, and with a -contour well broken by headings; the extent of Deer Park beyond (the -central object being the grand old lime-tree shown in a portrait of the -old duke); and the belt of gigantic forest trees beyond. Altogether it -is a charming scene, and one that shows well the noble character of the -scenery by which Welbeck is surrounded. - -The “Oxford,” or “Lady Oxford’s” wing, to which another story, as well -as new towers and additional rooms in length, has been added by the -present duke, forms the south angle of the mansion. The apartments in -this wing are chastely beautiful, alike in their decorations, their -furnishing, and their appointments. The walls in most cases are in -distemper, of a warm roseate tint, and the carved panelling and other -decorations are of dead and burnished gold; while the furnishing, -whether with furniture of Louis XVI. style, or of gold and figured silk -damask, or what not, is, while of costly and sumptuous character, all -arranged with the most faultless purity of taste. The chimney-pieces, -too, are in good taste; they are mostly of white marble, artistically -carved in medallion heads, foliage, &c., by workmen employed at -Welbeck. One fine old chimney-piece in the late duchess’s room is a -grand example of Wedgwood’s sage-green plaques inlaid in the marble. In -this Oxford wing an hydraulic lift, and every other possible appliance -and convenience for the comfort of the guests, have been added; indeed, -in the whole mansion nothing is left to be desired. - -[Illustration: _Welbeck, from the South-east._] - -The Libraries are a suite of five superb apartments opening by wide -central doorways one into another, thus forming one great whole. It is -not usual with us to give dimensions of rooms, but, as this suite has -some striking peculiarities connected with it, we in this instance give -them. They are, in round numbers, 43 by 38 feet, 59 by 43 feet, 59 by -31 feet, 59 by 31 feet, and 58 by 31 feet. At the side of these runs, -on one side, a charming glass-roofed corridor of considerable width, -and, on the other, an arched covered corridor of great length. The -ceilings of this suite of rooms are geometrically panelled and highly -enriched, and the whole is lighted from the top. - -Adjoining these is a spacious room 158 feet 10 inches in length by 63 -feet 6 inches in width, the ceiling of which is one mass of chaste and -beautiful ornamentation. Its ceiling, flat and of geometrical design, -is supported on a series of eight wrought-iron girders, each weighing -no less than twenty-two tons, and the whole of the light is from the -ceiling. - -The peculiarity of the construction of these rooms—the library suite -and the one last named, some stables, gardening and potting sheds, -lodges, &c., as well as others in progress—is that they are entirely -underground, and are approached from, and connected with, the rest -of the mansion by underground corridors and passages. The ground has -been excavated to an enormous depth, and at a princely cost, and these -lofty rooms are erected below the surface—a novelty in construction -unattained elsewhere, and one that possesses many decided advantages. -The light is equal to any to be attained in buildings on the surface, -and it has an additional softness that is peculiarly graceful; the -drainage is thorough and complete, the ventilation admirable, and -the annoyances of wind and of draughts entirely avoided. Verily the -fairies, who in their day had their underground palaces, and - - “Held their courtly revels - Down, down below,” - -must have been clever and far-seeing architects, for they thus kept -themselves clear from the elements, and could enjoy the summer sun in -coolness, and the winter’s wrath in warmth. This feature of Welbeck is, -indeed, like fairyland in its novelty and in its inward comforts, and -its adoption was a grand conception on the part of its noble owner. And -now a few words on other portions of the arrangements at Welbeck. - -[Illustration: _Welbeck, the Riding School._] - -The Riding School—the finest in existence—is a noble room, measuring -in its interior no less than 379 feet in length, by 106 feet in width, -and above 50 feet in height. It is covered by a semicircular and highly -ornate iron and glass roof, rising from iron columns, which form the -side of a charming corridor running round it. This corridor has an open -carved timber-work roof, of elegant but massive design. The general -idea of the design of this roof has been taken from that of the old -Riding-house, but altered in its details, and rendered more elaborate -and elegant: the cornice round the main building is chastely decorated -with wreaths of foliage, birds, and other objects, arranged with great -taste. The room is at night lighted by nearly eight thousand gas -jets, and has a strikingly beautiful effect. Near it are the Hunting -Stables, unequalled for amplitude of accommodation and for excellence -of arrangement, with their accompanying saddle-rooms, offices, and -grooms’ barracks. These stables form a quadrangle, the yard being -nearly 180 feet square, and contain some six-and-thirty spacious loose -boxes and a number of stalls, the planning and arrangement of the -whole being perfection itself. Not far from these are the coach-houses -and coach-house stabling, and the covered “gallop” and lunging-rooms. -These form another marked feature of Welbeck. The gallop is, in its -entire interior length, 1,072 feet, and its general central width 33 -feet; while the lunging-rooms at either end are about 70 feet in width, -and 191 and 293 feet in length respectively. The whole of this immense -space is covered with glass, and laid down in tan, &c.; it is believed -to be the finest covered gallop in existence. Besides this are outdoor -tan gallops, roughing and brood boxes, &c. The Kennels are also very -extensive. - -The Cowyards, Cowhouses, Sheds, and Dairy are of great extent, and -are arranged with every modern appliance. The Dairy, in the centre of -which is a crystal sparkling fountain rising from a marble bowl, is -unsurpassed anywhere; the floor is of Minton’s encaustic tiles, and the -fittings and wall-tiles of chastely beautiful patterns. Near it are -the steward’s and other offices, the visitors’ stables, the telegraph -office, and many other buildings. - -The Gardens of Welbeck are one of its great glories, so extensive, so -well arranged, so liberally provided, and so productive are they. Among -the special features—arrangements nowhere else on the same principle -adopted—are the peach wall, nearly one thousand feet in length, with -lean-to glass on Rendle’s patent, but so arranged, with a series -of strawberry beds on the other side of the path, that they can be -lifted down and run, as on a tramway, to cover the strawberries; thus -each division of the lean-to forms a frame to cover a strawberry bed -of its exact size. The fruit walls are built with recesses in their -backs, in which braziers of fire can be placed, so as to hasten and -help the ripening of the fruit. The range of pine-houses is about the -same length, as are also the magnificent vineries. A pretty and novel -feature, too, is a fruit arcade. This arcade is nearly one thousand -feet in length, and is formed of a series of ornamental iron arches, -and over the whole of this are trained a number of apple-trees up -one side, and pear-trees up the other, and bearing profusely for the -whole of this immense length. Then there are the orchard-houses, in -which hundreds of standard peach and other trees grow in pots; the -potting-houses, the pine-pits, the conservatories, the forcing-houses, -the giant mulberry-tree, and a host of other gardening attractions. - -Another important part of Welbeck is the series of Workshops and -Yards. Here are immense carpenters’ yards and workshops, fitted with -every possible kind of machinery and every mechanical appliance—fit -for the most extensive contractor; there the extensive stoneyards -and masons’ workshops; in another place the painters’ sheds and the -forging-sheds; in another the smiths’ and engineers’ shops; and in yet -another the powerful steam-engines for driving the various kinds of -machinery. Here, too, are extensive gas-works, consisting of no less -than four huge gasometers; the fire-engine house, fitted with engines -in constant readiness and with gear of every kind; the immensely -ponderous traction engines, for which his grace is so justly famous, -and of which some six or seven are constantly at work; and many other -matters to which we need not allude. - -The works now for many years carried on by the Duke of Portland have -been, and yet are, of the most stupendous character, and must have been -accomplished at a lavish and princely outlay. His grace has, however, -done all things “wisely and well,” and if his outlay _has_ been -princely, it has been expended in a princely manner, and to the benefit -of thousands of his fellow-creatures. It is not for us, in a work like -ours, to moralise, but it strikes us that to enter upon and carry out -large and important works in a liberal, energetic, and spirited manner -is a far better, far higher, and far nobler way of filling a mission -on earth than getting rid of capital in some objectionable pursuits. -The Duke of Portland is a great benefactor to his race, and by finding -employment, as he does, to some two thousand persons or more, the good -he does is incalculable. - -The collection of pictures at Welbeck is very fine and very extensive, -and embraces many paintings, family portraits, and others of note -and of matchless value. Among these portraits are several of the -celebrated Duke of Newcastle, of his countesses, and of his horses, -with views of Welbeck, &c.; a remarkably fine original portrait of the -Countess of Shrewsbury, “Bess of Hardwick,” bearing the inscription, -“Eliz: Hardwick, Daughter and Coheir of John Hardwick, of Hardwick -in the County of Derby, Esq^{re.} Married to her second husband, Sir -Wm. Cavendishe of Chatsworth, in the same County. She settled her -3rd son Charles Cavendishe at Welbeck in the County of Nottingham;” -a remarkably fine original portrait of Mary, Queen of Scots; an -equally fine one of the Lady Arabella Stuart, by Zucchero; portraits -of most of the members of the Bentinck family and their alliances, -and of the Cavendish, Harley, and Holles families, besides a large -number of general subjects. Among them may be named as a few of the -more interesting:—Elizabeth Basset, of Blore, first wife of William -Cavendish, first Duke of Newcastle, by Mytens, signed “Ætatis suæ -25 anno 1624. D. Mytens fct.;” Sir Charles Cavendish, father of the -first Duke of Newcastle, and his wife, Lady Ogle of Ogle, daughter -of Cuthbert, Lord Ogle, by Mytens; Sir Charles Cavendish; William -Cavendish, first Duke of Newcastle, by Vandyke; Margaret Lucas, Duchess -of Newcastle, the gifted authoress, second wife of the first Duke of -Newcastle, by Lely; Henry Cavendish, second Duke of Newcastle, by -Lely; Elizabeth Cavendish, Duchess of Albemarle and Montague, by Lely; -the second Duke of Albemarle, by Lely; Elizabeth Cavendish and her -husband, the Earl of Bridgewater, by Lely; Henry Bentinck, Earl of -Portland, and Henrietta Cavendish Holles, wife of the second Earl of -Oxford, by Kneller; Henrietta Cavendish Harley, Duchess of Portland, -by Hudson; Edward Harley, second Earl of Oxford, by Dahl; Robert -Harley, Earl of Oxford, by Kneller; Duke of Portland, by Sir Joshua -Reynolds; Napoleon, by Paul de la Roche; “Angel Contemplation,” by Sir -Joshua Reynolds, and bequeathed by him to the then Duke of Portland; -Margaret Cavendish Harley, by Michael Dahl; and another of the same, by -Charles Jervas; Lucy Harrington, Countess of Bedford; Frances Howard, -Countess of Essex, by Vansomer; Henry Wriothesley, Earl of Southampton, -and his countess, Elizabeth Vernon, by Holbein; Henry, Prince of -Wales, by Zucchero; George Villiers, Duke of Buckingham, by Jansen; -Margaret Wooton, wife of Sir Thomas Grey, and grandmother of Lady Jane -Grey, by Holbein; King Edward VI., by Holbein; the bloody-shouldered -Arabian horse, sent over from Aleppo by Mr. Nathaniel Harley, with -figures of the Turk and his dog, by John Wootton, 1724; Sir Francis -Vere, and Edward Vere, Earl of Oxford, by Mark Garrard; Robert Cecil, -first Earl of Salisbury; Ben Jonson; Philip Herbert, Earl of Pembroke -and Montgomery, by Vandyke; Sir Hugh Myddelton, by Jansen; William -Wentworth, Earl of Strafford, by Vandyke; Gervase Holles, son of -Freschevelle Holles; Gerard Thomas Fairfax; John Holles, second Earl of -Clare; Sir Edward Harley; Denzil Holles, Lord Holles, by Holbein; King -Charles II.; James Butler, second Duke of Ormond, by Lely; William III. -in his coronation robes, and Queen Mary II., by Kneller; Lord Cornbury -and lady, by Lely; Lady Ogle, Duchess of Somerset, by Kneller; William -III. when Prince of Orange, given by him to the Earl of Portland; Lady -Frances Villiers, by Lely; Catherine Harley, Duchess of Buckingham, -by old Zeeman; Matthew Prior, the poet, by Jonathan Richardson, and -another, by Rigaud; Charlotte Davis, Viscountess Sundon; and Queen -Elizabeth, by Lucas de Heere. These, however, are not a tithe of the -rare and excellent pictures contained in this splendid collection, -which our limits alone prevent us from enumerating. As an assemblage -of historical and family portraits, as well as of rare examples of -the best masters, the Welbeck collection takes high rank among the -choicest private galleries of the kingdom. The collection also includes -some good ivories and a large number of valuable miniatures. Among the -treasures here preserved, too, are the original MS. of the Duke of -Newcastle’s grand book on “Horsemanship,” already alluded to; a large -number of letters from royal, noble, and celebrated personages; several -patents of creation; a MS. account of the regalia, jewels, plate, &c., -of Henry VIII., signed in several places by that monarch; some curious -MS. inventories; and many other matters of historical value. - -Welbeck formerly had its share of royal visits, and of these some -curious accounts are given in the Duchess of Newcastle’s “Life” of her -husband. Thus—“When his Majesty (Charles I.) was going into Scotland -to be crowned, he took his way through Nottinghamshire; and lying at -Worksopp-Mannor, hardly two miles distant from _Welbeck_, where my -Lord then was, my Lord invited His Majesty thither to a Dinner, which -he was graciously pleased to accept of: this entertainment cost my -Lord between Four and Five thousand pounds; which His Majesty liked so -well, that a year after His Return out of _Scotland_, He was pleased -to send my Lord word, that Her Majesty the Queen was resolved to make -a Progress into the Northern parts, desiring him to prepare the like -Entertainment for Her, as he had formerly done for Him: Which my Lord -did, and endeavour’d for it with all possible Care and Industry, -sparing nothing that might add splendor to that Feast, which both Their -Majesties were pleased to honour with their Presence. _Ben Jonson_ he -employed in fitting such Scenes and Speeches as he could best devise; -and sent for all the Gentry of the Country to come and wait on their -Majesties; and in short, did all that ever he could imagine, to render -it Great and worthy Their Royal Acceptance. This Entertainment he made -at _Bolsover Castle_, in Derbyshire, some five miles distant from -_Welbeck_, and resigned _Welbeck_ for Their Majesties Lodging; it cost -him in all between Fourteen and Fifteen thousand pounds. Besides these -two, there was another small Entertainment which my Lord prepared for -His late Majesty, in his own Park at _Welbeck_, when his Majesty came -down, with his two Nephews, the now Prince Elector Palatine, and His -Brother Prince _Rupert_, into the Forrest at _Sherwood_, which cost him -Fifteen hundred pounds. And this I mention not out of a vain-glory, but -to declare the great love and Duty my Lord had for His Gracious King -and Queen, and to correct the mistakes committed by some Historians, -who not being rightly informed of those Entertainments, make the World -believe Falsehood for Truth.” The first of Ben Jonson’s masques here -alluded to was entitled “Love’s Welcome. The King’s entertainment at -Welbeck, in Nottinghamshire, a house of the Right Honourable William, -Earl of Newcastle, Viscount Mansfield, Baron of Bothal, Bolsover, &c., -at his going into Scotland, 1633.” It was one of the best of Jonson’s -masques, and the quintain was introduced and performed by gentlemen of -the county in the garb of rustics. - -And now it only remains to say a word or two as to the surroundings of -Welbeck. - -Welbeck Park, and the closely adjoining forest of Sherwood, have ever -been noted for their fine venerable trees—oaks that have stood for -ages, and bid fair to stand for ages yet to come. Many of the then -fine old trees were cut down “by the rebels” when Welbeck became for -a time their prey during the civil wars, but many still remained; and -those then in their prime have now become more venerable with age. A -few of the more noted may just be named. The “Duke’s Walking-stick,” so -called from its long straight stem, when described in 1813, and earlier -by Major Rooke, who considered it to be unmatched in the kingdom, -measured 111 feet 6 inches in height, was estimated to weigh about 11 -tons, and contained about 440 solid cubic feet of timber. It no longer -exists, but another tree, a “young walking-stick,” we are informed, -of nearly a century and a half’s growth, is about 100 feet in height. -The “Two Porters,” standing a little distance apart, and named “the -Porters” from a gate and fence having formerly stood between them, -are described as being about 98 and 88 feet in height, and 38 and 34 -feet in circumference; they stand nearly at the north extremity of the -park, not far from the south lodge of Worksop Manor, and are marvels of -growth and girth. - -The “Seven Sisters,” situated about half a mile from the “Two Porters,” -is one of the most remarkable trees anywhere in existence. It consisted -originally of seven stems springing from one general root, and -rising perpendicularly to a great height—no less than 88 feet, the -circumference of the common trunk close to the ground being over 30 -feet. Some of the sister stems have from time to time been blown down, -but the tree is still a noble and interesting one. Near it “a hollow -tree, in circumference 20 feet 9 inches, supposed to be three hundred -years old, was used as a place of concealment from whence the keeper -could aim at the deer.” - -[Illustration: _The Greendale Oak._] - -The “Ruysdael Oak,” so called because of being in form and condition -one of those peculiar trees which that painter delighted to introduce -into his pictures, stands on a commanding eminence in the park, not far -from the “Seven Sisters,” and forms a striking object from whichever -side it is seen. Venerable in its age, lovely in its decay, this -“grand old oak” stretches out its weird-like naked branches in every -direction, and forms a landmark that cannot be mistaken. From it, and, -indeed, from many points on this side of the park, some strikingly -beautiful views of the mansion, the lake, and the grounds are obtained. - -In the part of the grounds known as “The Wilderness;” in the various -drives that intersect the forest; in the remains of “Merrie Sherwood,” -which form a part of the estate; and, indeed, in every direction, noble -oaks many centuries old, limes of marvellous beauty, and chestnuts of -enormous growth are abundant, and give an air of unsurpassed grandeur -to the domain. There is also, in another part of the grounds, a fine -avenue of aged oaks. - -The “Greendale Oak” is, however, of all trees, the most curious, -venerable, and interesting. It lies some half a mile south of the -Abbey, and is computed to be one of the oldest trees in existence in -this country. Throsby, in his “Thoroton,” supposed it to be, when he -wrote, “upwards of 1,500 years old,” and Major Rooke, a few years -previously, that it was “thought to be above seven hundred years old;” -thus opinions of contemporary people varied some eight hundred years in -their computations. “In Evelyn’s time it was 33 feet in circumference -at the bottom; the breadth of the boughs was 88 feet, covering a space -equal to 676 square yards.” In 1724, the opening, from decay, in the -stem of the tree was enlarged sufficiently to allow of the passage of -an ordinary carriage, or three horsemen abreast. Through this opening -one of the noble owners is said, with his bride, to have been driven -in a carriage drawn by six horses, on the occasion of his marriage. -The tree has been repeatedly engraved, one old plate representing the -carriage being driven through the opening, and another representing a -horseman passing through it. In 1727 the Countess of Oxford, the then -owner of Welbeck, had a cabinet made from a portion of the wood taken -out of the opening. It is inlaid with representations of the carriage -and six horses passing through the tree, and other designs, and bears -the following quotation from Ovid:— - - “Sæpe sub hac Dryades festas duxure choreas - Sæpe etiam manibus nexis ex ordine trunci, - Curcuiere modum mensuraque roboris ulnas. - Quinque ter implebat. Nec non et cætera lentum - Silva sub hac omnis, quantum fuit herba sub omni;” - -and Chaucer’s lines— - - “Lo the Oke! that hath so long a norishing - Fro the time that it ginneth first to spring, - And hath so long a life, as we may see, - Yet, at the last, wasted is the tree.” - -The Greendale Oak, the “Methuselah of trees,” still stands, and is -preserved with religious care. Long may this “brave old oak” remain one -of the landmarks of past ages at lordly Welbeck! - -Long, too, may the “Parliament Oak,” where Edward I. summoned his -Parliament to meet him; the “Shamble Oak,” where Robin Hood and his -“merry, merry men, all under the greenwood tree,” hung their deer, but -which has lately been nearly destroyed by fire; the “Major Oak,” the -“Simon Forester Oak,” and their brethren, be spared to us, and remain -as landmarks of history and of tradition! - -The neighbourhood of Welbeck is rich in historical associations, in -objects of interest, and in places of note. Sherwood Forest, with its -hero-lore of Robin Hood; Clipstone, with its grand old Park; Clumber, -with its noble mansion; Worksop, with its Manor House, its Abbey -Church, its grand old gateway, and its other attractive features; -Thoresby, with its palatial Hall; Bolsover, with its grand old Castle; -and Steetley, with its Saxon Church: these are but a few, a very few, -of the places that lie around and invite a visit; but these we must -pass over, and, for a time, bid adieu to Welbeck and its charms. - - - - -INDEX. - - - Abbey of Welbeck, 1326. - - Adam, Robert, 1101. - - Agincourt, Battle of, 1188. - - Albini, Family of, 1003 _et seq._ - - Allin, Family of, 1206 to 1209, 1220; - Admiral, 1207, 1208, 1220. - - Anagram of Charles I., 1189. - - Anguish, Family of, 1208, 1220. - - Anne of Cleves, 1152. - - “Arcadia,” Sidney’s, 1235. - - Archer,1267. - - Armada, Spanish, 1036, 1114. - - Arms of Manners, 1001, 1006, 1009, 1014; - De Todeni, 1003; - De Albini, 1003; - De Ros, 1003; - Duke of Rutland, 1001, 1009, 1014; - Duke of Sutherland, 1033, 1042; - Leveson, 1042; - Earl Delawarr, 1064; - Gower, 1042; - Howard, 1082; - Earl of Carlisle, 1082; - Brotherton, 1082; - Curzon, 1099; - Warren, 1082; - Lord Scarsdale, 1099, 1100; - Mowbray, 1082; - Leake, 1100; - Cecil, 1140; - Dacre, 1082; - Neville, 1121; - Greystock, 1082; - Lord Braybrooke, 1121; - Earl of Stamford, 1128, 1140; - Pakington, 1160, 1166, 1171, 1181; - Coke, 1189; - Lord Hampton, 1160, 1166, 1171, 1181; - Lord Palmerston, 1193; - Earl Cowper, 1194; - Jernegan, 1205; - Allin, 1208; - Anguish, 1209; - Crossley, 1212; - Earl of Pembroke, 1229; - Duke of Cleveland, 1254, 1255; - Vane, 1254; - Fitzroy, 1254; - Duke of Westminster, 1275; - King Edward the Confessor, 1275; - Lucas, 1292; - Lowther, 1297; - Grosvenor, 1275; - Earl of Lonsdale, 1295; - Clinton, 1322; - Pelham, 1322; - Cavendish, 1331, 1341; - Hardwick, 1332; - Holles, 1337; - Bentinck, 1338, 1341; - Duke of Portland, 1341; - Scott, 1341. - - Arne, Dr., 1272. - - Arundel Marbles, 1232. - - Audley End, 1112 to 1127; - Family of Audley, 1112 to 1121; - Family of Howard, 1112 to 1121; - Neville Family, 1119 to 1121; - History of, 1121 to 1126; - Pepys’s Visits to, 1122 to 1125; - Grounds, 1126, 1127. - - Audley, Lords, 1112 to 1127. - - Axminster Carpets, 1238, 1239. - - - Ballad of the Spanish Lady, 1035; - Henry V. and the King of France, 1188; - Lord of Burleigh, 1136; - Luck of Eden Hall, 1315. - - Bath, 1026. - - Baths, Kedleston, 1107; - Harrogate, 1108; - Quarndon, 1108; - Droitwich, 1185. - - Baxter, Richard, 1197. - - “Belted Will,” 1076. - - Belvoir Castle, 1001 to 1031; - Situation, 1001; - History of, 1017; - Families of Ros, Manners, &c., 1003 to 1014; - Witches of, 1014 to 1017; - Description of, 1018 to 1023; - Gardens and Grounds, 1023 to 1030; - Neighbourhood of, 1030. - - Belvoir Monastery, 1003. - - Bentinck, Family of, 1338 to 1341; - Lord George, 1340. - - “Bess of Hardwick,” 1227, 1334, 1335, 1350. - - Boleyn, Anne, 1065, 1146 to 1159; - Family of, 1146 to 1159. - - Bottesford, 1017, 1030, 1031. - - Bourbon, John, Duke of, at Melbourne, 1188. - - Braybrooke, Baron, 1119 to 1127. - - Briggs, J. J., Lines by, 1200, 1201. - - Brine Baths, 1185 - - Brougham Castle, 1315. - - Brougham, Lord, 1315. - - Browne, William, Lines by, 1226. - - Buckhurst, Lord, 1061. - - Buckingham, Duke of, 1267 _et seq._ - - Burleigh, 1128 to 1146; - History of, 1128 to 1131; - Family of Cecil, 1131 to 1140; - Description of, 1140 to 1146; - “Lord of Burleigh,” 1136 to 1138. - - - Cardigan, Earl of, 1270. - - Carlisle, Earls of, 1074 to 1092. - - Carlisle, Lord, Poetry of, 1088, 1092. - - Carpets, Wilton, 1238, 1239. - - Castle Howard, 1074 to 1092; - Family of Howard, 1074 to 1083; - History of, 1074 to 1083; - Description of, 1084 to 1090; - Gardens and Grounds, 1090 to 1092. - - Cavendish, Family of, 1329 to 1343. - - Cecil, Family of, 1131 to 1140. - - Chantrey, Statue by, 1039. - - Chatsworth, 1227, 1334. - - Chester, Earls of, 1273. - - Cibber, Statues by, 1027. - - Cleveland, Dukes of, 1248 to 1255. - - Cliefden, 1265 to 1279; - Situation of, 1265 to 1267; - History of, 1267 to 1273; - Family of Grosvenor, 1273 to 1275; - Gardens and Grounds, 1275 to 1279. - - Clifton, Battle of, 1315. - - Clinton, Family of, 1318 to 1322. - - Clough Mills, 1210. - - Clumber, 1317 to 1326; - Situation, 1317; - Family of Pelham, Dukes of Newcastle, 1318 to 1322; - Description of, 1322 to 1326; - Roman Remains at, 1324, 1325. - - Coke, Family of, 1189 to 1193. - - Cowper, Earl, Family of, 1192, 1193. - - Crossley, Family of, 1209 to 1212. - - Curzon, Families of, 1061, 1094 to 1099, - - - Dacre Castle, 1315. - - Dean Clough Mills, 1210. - - Delaware, Earls of, 1057 to 1064. - - Derby Fly, 1108; Hills, 1188. - - Devonshire, Dukes of, 1330 _et seq._ - - Dixon, Sonnet by, 1313. - - Donington Cliff, 1201, 1202. - - Droitwich, 1184, 1185; - Baths, 1185; - Tesselated Pavement, 1184. - - Drumburgh, Roman Remains, 1305, 1308. - - Duffield, 1111. - - Duke’s Walking-stick, 1353. - - - Eamont Bridge, 1315. - - Eden Hall, Luck of, 1315. - - Espec, Family of, 1003 _et seq._ - - Evelyn at Audley End, 1124; - Welbeck, 1355. - - Exeter, Countess of, Lines on, 1134. - - - Fairfax, Lord, 1271. - - Fane, Family of, 1248 to 1285. - - Ferrars, 1111. - - Flower, Joan, the Witch, 1014 to 1017. - - - Gernon, Family of, 1329. - - Gladstone, W. E., Inscription by, 1041. - - Godolphin-Osborne, Family of, 1208 to 1210. - - Gower, Family of, 1037 to 1042. - - Gower, John, the Poet, 1045. - - Greendale Oak, 1355. - - Greystoke Castle, 1316. - - Grosvenor, Family of, 1273 to 1275. - - Gunpowder Plot, 1115. - - Guy Fawkes, 1115. - - - Hackthorpe, 1316. - - Haddon Hall, 1026. - - Halifax and the Crossleys, 1209 to 1212. - - Hamilton, Lord George, 1271. - - Hampton, Lords, 1180, 1181. - - Hampton Lovett Church, 1181 to 1183. - - Hardinge, Lords, 1198. - - Hardwick, Family of, 1352; - Hall, 1334. - - Haweswater, 1312. - - Henderskelf Castle, 1083. - - Herbert, Family of, 1225 to 1229, 1236. - - Hermitage, The, 1316. - - Hever Castle, 1065, 1147 to 1159; - Family of Boleyn, 1147 to 1159; - Family of Waldo, 1152 to 1155; - History of, 1155 to 1159; - Description of, 1155 to 1159. - - Holles, Family of, 1337. - - Holy Well at King’s Newton, 1200. - - “Horsemanship,” Duke of Newcastle’s, 1341 _et seq._ - - Howard, Family of, 1075 to 1092, 1113 to 1121. - - - Ireton, General, 1111. - - - Jernegan, Family of, 1202 to 1205. - - Jonson, Ben, 1226, 1352. - - - Kedleston Hall, 1093 to 1111; - History of, 1093 to 1102; - Family of Curzon, 1094 to 1099; - Leake Family, 1099, 1100; - Description of, 1101 to 1107; - Park and Grounds, 1107 to 1109; - Baths, 1107; - Oaks, 1108; - Church, 1109 to 1111; - Monuments, 1109, 1110; - Neighbourhood of, 1111; - Fly, 1108. - - King’s Newton, 1198 to 1202; - Charles I. at, 1198. - - Kirkby Thore, Roman Remains, 1305 _et seq._ - - Kirk Ireton, 1111. - - Knole, 1056 to 1073; - Families to whom it has belonged, 1057 to 1067; - History of, 1064; - Description of, 1066 to 1073; - Grounds, 1073. - - - Lamb, Family of, 1190 to 1193; - Lady Caroline, 1190; - Hon. George, Lines by, 1195. - - Leveson, Family of, 1034 to 1042. - - Leveson-Gower, Family of, 1034 to 1042. - - Long Meg and her Daughters, 1315. - - Lonsdale, Earl of, 1291 to 1316. - - “Lord of Burleigh,” 1136 to 1138. - - Lowther Castle, 1291 to 1316; - Situation, 1316; - History of, 1297, 1316, 1317; - Family of Lowther, 1292 to 1297, 1313, 1314; - Description of, 1297 to 1311; - Roman Remains at, 1305 to 1311; - Gardens and Grounds, 1311 to 1313; - Neighbourhood of, 1315. - - Lowther, Family of, 1292 to 1297, 1313, 1314; - Church and Monuments, 1313, 1314. - - “Lusty Pakington” and Queen Elizabeth, 1172, 1176. - - - Mackworth Castle, 1111. - - Manners, Family of, 1001 to 1031. - - Markeaton Hall, 1111. - - Melbourne Hall, 1186 to 1202; - History of Melbourne, 1186 to 1188; - Family of Coke, 1189 to 1193; - Family of Lamb, 1190 to 1193; - Melbourne, Lords, 1190 to 1193; - Lord Palmerston, 1192, 1193; - Earl Cowper, 1193, 1194; - Gardens, 1194 to 1197; - Description of, 1186 to 1197; - Church, 1197, 1198; - Places in Neighbourhood, 1188 to 1202; - Richard Baxter at, 1197. - - Melbourne, Viscounts, Family of, 1189 to 1193. - - Mugginton, 1111. - - Mundy Family, 1199. - - - Napoleon Bonaparte, Abdication Table, 1300. - - Nevil, Family of, 1246 to 1248. - - Newcastle, Duke of, Family of, 1318 to 1322; - Cavendish, Duke of, 1334 _et seq._; - Margaret Duchess of, 1336. - - Nursery Rhyme, 1299. - - - Oaks at Welbeck, 1353 to 1356. - - Old John of the Hill, 1013. - - Orkney, Countess of, 1271. - - Osborne, Family of, 1208 to 1210. - - - Pakington, Family of, 1166, 1167, 1171 to 1181; - Pound, 1174. - - Palmerston, Lord, Family of, 1190 to 1193. - - Parliament Oak, 1356. - - Pedigree Tomb at Lowther, 1314. - - Pelham, Family of, 1318, 1322. - - Pembroke, Earls of, 1225 to 1241. - - Penrith, Roman Remains, 1305, 1306; - Town, &c., 1315; - Altar-piece, 1315. - - Penshurst, 1065. - - Pepys, Samuel, at Audley End, 1122 to 1125; - at Raby Castle, 1251; - Triple Duel, 1268, 1269. - - Peto, Samuel Morton, 1209, 1217, 1220. - - Plague at Penrith, &c., 1315. - - Plumpton, Roman Remains, 1305. - - Pope, Lines on Duke of Buckingham, 1271. - - Portland, Duke of, 1326 to 1356. - - Portland Vase, 1045. - - - Quarndon, 1108. - - Queen Elizabeth and “Lusty Pakington,” 1172, 1176; - and Cecil, 1131; - at Wilton, 1235. - - - Raby Castle, 1243 to 1264; - Park and Grounds, 1243 to 1245; - History of, 1245 to 1263; - Raby Figs and Currants, 1245; - Family of Nevil, 1246 to 1248; - Family of Vane or Fane, 1248 to 1255; - Description of, 1255 to 1264; - Neighbourhood of, 1265. - - Roger de Coverley, Sir, 1175. - - Roman Remains at Lowther, 1304 to 1310; - at Clumber, 1324, 1325. - - Ros, De, Family of, 1004 to 1006. - - Rowsley, 1012. - - Rule Britannia, 1272. - - Rutland, Dukes of, 1001 to 1031, 1037. - - Ruysdael Oak, 1354. - - - Sackville Family, 1057 to 1064. - - Saffron Walden, 1126. - - “Saint’s Rest,” 1197. - - Salisbury Cathedral, 1239 to 1241. - - Scarsdale, Barons, 1094 to 1100. - - Scrope and Grosvenor Roll, 1275. - - Seven Sisters, 1353, 1354. - - Sharrow Bay, 1316. - - Shelley, Percy Bysshe, 1287 to 1289; - Family of, 1287 to 1289. - - Sherwood Forest, 1317, 1326, 1335. - - Shrewsbury, Countess of, 1227, 1268. - - Sidneys, The, 1226 to 1229. - - Somerleyton, 1203 to 1223; - Family of Jernegan, 1202 to 1205; - Family of Wentworth, 1205 to 1208; - Family of Anguish, 1208; - Families of Peto and Crossley, 1209 to 1212; - Park and Grounds, 1212 to 1217; - Description of, 1217 to 1219; - Church and Monuments, 1219 to 1221; - Neighbourhood of, 1222. - - Sonnet on Belvoir, 1029; - on Howard, 1076; - on Lowther, 1313. - - Spanish Lady’s Love, 1035. - - Staindrop, 1264. - - Stamford, Earls of, 1131 to 1140. - - Stonehenge, 1241. - - Sutherland, Dukes of, 1032 to 1055, 1272. - - - Temple, Family of, 1192. - - Tennyson’s “Lord of Burleigh,” 1136. - - Thompson, Jacob, 1315, 1316. - - Tile Memorials, 1050. - - Todeni, Family of, 1003 _et seq._ - - Trentham, 1032 to 1055, 1272; - Monastery, 1033, 1034; - History of, 1033 to 1043; - Families of Leveson, Leveson-Gower, &c., 1034 to 1042; - Description of, 1044 to 1048; - Church, 1048 to 1050; - Monuments, 1049, 1050; - Grounds and Gardens, 1050 to 1055. - - Triple Duel, 1268. - - Two Porters, 1353, 1354. - - - Ulleswater, 1312. - - Underground Rooms, 1347. - - - Vanbrugh, Sir John, 1083, 1084, 1125. - - Vane, Family of, 1248 to 1255. - - Villiers, Family of, 1267. - - - Waldo Family, 1152 to 1155. - - Walton, Izaak, 1236. - - Warnham Court, 1280 to 1290; - Situation, 1290; - Family of Lucas, 1292; - Description of, 1282 to 1287; - Shelley Family, 1287. - - Welbeck, 1327 to 1356; - Situation, 1327; - History of, 1327 to 1329; - Families of Cavendish, Holles, Hardwick, Bentinck, 1329 to 1341; - Dukes of Portland, 1327 to 1356; - Old View of, 1342; - Duke of Newcastle’s “Horsemanship,” 1342; - Description of, 1343 to 1352; - Royal Visits, 1352; - Park, 1353 to 1356; - Greendale and other Oaks, 1353 to 1356; - Neighbourhood of, 1356. - - Wentworth, Family of, 1205 to 1208; - Sir John, 1206, 1207, 1220. - - Westminster, Duke of, Family of, 1265 to 1279. - - Westmoreland Worthies, 1300; - Lakes, 1316. - - Weston Cliff, 1201. - - Westwood Park, 1160 to 1185; - Situation, 1160 to 1162; - Description of, 1162 to 1170; - Family of Pakington, 1166, 1167, 1171 to 1181; - Pakington’s Pound, 1174; - “Whole Duty of Man,” 1178; - Hampton Lovett Church, 1181 to 1183; - Monuments, 1181 to 1183; - Droitwich, 1184, 1185. - - Whitely Court, 1185. - - Wilton House, 1225 to 1241; - Family of Herbert, 1225 to 1229; - the Sidneys, 1226 to 1229; - History of, 1229 to 1232; - Description of, 1231 to 1234; - the Grounds, 1234, 1235; - “Arcadia,” 1235; - Sidney Herbert, 1236; - Church, 1237, 1238; - Wilton Carpets, 1238, 1239; - Salisbury Cathedral, 1239 to 1241; - Stonehenge, 1241. - - Windsor, 1266, 1301. - - Witches of Belvoir, 1014 to 1017. - - Wolverhampton, Monuments at, 1036. - - Worcester, Battle of, 1177. - - Worksop, 1317, 1326, 1327. - - - Yates’s Carpets, 1238. - - - THE END. - - - - - FOOTNOTES: - -[1] The principal architects employed were Mr. Allason and Mr. Abraham; -Mr. Loudon also had something to do, later on, with the laying out of -the grounds. - -[2] “Alton Towers and Dove-Dale.” By Llewellynn Jewitt, F.S.A. (Black -and Co.) The Roman Catholic establishment just referred to is close -to the pretty little town of Alton, in which the visitor will find an -excellent and comfortable inn (the “White Hart”). The intention of -the founder, and of the architect, Pugin, in the establishment of the -picturesque pile of buildings referred to, was to found an institution, -lecture-hall, schools, &c., for the town of Alton; a large cloistered -establishment for nuns, a chapel, and a hospital for decayed priests. -The chapel alone is finished, and in it service is regularly performed -by a resident priest, who lives in one part of the monastic buildings. -The schools, too, are in use, and the building erected as a residence -for the master is used as a small nunnery. In the chapel, which is -elegantly fitted up, are buried John, Earl of Shrewsbury, the founder -of the hospital, who died in 1852; his Countess (Maria Theresa), who -died in 1856, to each of whom are splendid monumenta - -[3] Jewitt’s “Alton Towers and Dove Dale.” - -[4] Parts of this account are borrowed from Mr. S. C. Hall’s -description of Cobham, printed in 1848 in the “Baronial Halls.” During -the summer of 1867, Mr. Hall revisited the venerable mansion, its -gardens and park, with the members of the Society of Noviomagus. - -[5] “Cobham, anciently Coptham; that is, the head of a village, from -the Saxon _copt_, a head.”—PHILIPOT. _Survey of Kent_. - -[6] Sir Thomas Broke and Joan de Cobham, his wife, had ten sons and -four daughters. It is their tomb which occupies so prominent a position -in the chancel of Cobham Church. - -[7] Under a most iniquitous sentence, Raleigh was executed fifteen -years after it was pronounced; and Cobham (by whose treachery the brave -knight was chiefly convicted) had been a houseless wanderer meanwhile, -perishing unpitied and unwept. Of their intimacy there is no doubt; -and it is more than probable, that the old Hall we are describing was -often the home of Sir Walter Raleigh when conspicuous as “the noble -and valorous knight.” It is grievous to think that so great a “worthy” -should have been sacrificed to the pitiful cowardice of so “poor a -soul” as the last of the Cobhams—the degenerate scion of a munificent -and valorous race. - -[8] Sir Joseph Williamson was the son of a clergyman of Cumberland. He -held various appointments under the Crown, was President of the Royal -Society, and was buried in Westminster Abbey. - -[9] “Lady Katherine O’Brien died in November following; upon which -her two-thirds of this manor and seat, which, with the rest of -the estates of the late Duke of Richmond, purchased by Sir Joseph -Williamson, descended to Edward, Lord Clifton and Cornbury (son of -Edward, Lord Cornbury, afterwards Earl of Clarendon, and Catherine his -wife, the only daughter and heir of the said Lady Katherine, by her -first husband, Henry Lord O’Brien), and on his death, without issue, -in 1713, to his only surviving sister and heir, the Lady Theodosia -Hyde.”—HASTED’S _Kent_. - -[10] In 1718 Sir Richard Temple, Bart., was created Baron and Viscount -Cobham (the Temples, it appears, being in the female line connected -with the Brokes), and this title is still held and enjoyed by his -descendant the present Duke of Buckingham, K.G., whose titles are Baron -Cobham, of Cobham in Kent; Viscount Cobham of the same place; Earl -Nugent (in the peerage of Ireland); Earl Temple; Marquis of Chandos, -Marquis of Buckingham, and Duke of Buckingham. - -[11] The architect is C. F. Hayward, F.S.A. It is a handsome building, -immediately fronting the Terminus, of a style which may be described -as a free treatment of Gothic architecture, without any of the special -characteristics which refer to one particular date—in fact, it is -a modern design, well adapted to its purposes and position, and of -substantial build, being of granite and limestone—combined with -lightness and even elegance in certain details of terra-cotta work, -from the well-known manufactory of Blashfield of Stamford. - -From the lantern tower of the hotel, rising far above the buildings -near, and also from some of the windows in the upper floor, is to be -obtained a magnificent view of the Sound, with the near Breakwater, and -the Eddystone Lighthouse, “far out at sea;” while the grassy slopes of -lovely Mount Edgcumbe and its tree-capped heights are seen to rise in -front, overhanging the land-locked harbour, called Hamoaze. - -[12] The grounds are on Mondays freely open to all comers; but on any -day visitors will be admitted to them by application at the Manor -Office, Stonehouse, near to the ferry by which passengers are conveyed -across. There is, however, a road for carriages; but that implies a -drive of twelve miles there and twelve miles back, besides the drive of -five or six miles round the Park. - -[13] The date of the erection of Maker Church is not known. It was -originally dedicated to St. Julian, and there is a well near the church -still designated St. Julian’s well. - -[14] The name of Cothele is conjectured to be hence derived: _coit_ -being a wood in ancient Cornish, and _hel_ a river: the wood by the -river, or, in a mixture of British and Old English, the hall in the -wood, _healle_ being a hall or manor-house. The name occurs in many -very ancient records, _temp._ Henry III., “William Cothele engages -to defend by his body, _in duel_, the right of Roger de Wanton and -Katerine, his wife, to lands in Somerset against William de Deveneys.” - -[15] It is now the residence of the Dowager Countess Mount-Edgcumbe, -who, we rejoice to know, cherishes every portion of the venerable -mansion, with its decorations and contents. It is made thoroughly -comfortable, yet without in the slightest degree impairing its -“natural” character; scarcely, indeed, displacing a single relic of -antiquity, of which every room contains some singular, interesting, -and often beautiful, examples. The people are admitted freely to the -woods and grounds; and parties visit there nearly every day—a steamboat -running daily, in summer, up the Tamar, from Plymouth. - -[16] Carew describes the building as “_auncient_, large, strong, and -faire;” he was born in 1555, and wrote before 1600; and would scarcely -have described a building as “auncient,” which had been erected only -a century before his time. He describes also the chapel as “richly -furnished by the devotion of times past.” - -[17] At Watcombe, a pretty village two miles from Torquay, there has -recently been established a manufactory of works in terra-cotta. -They originated in the discovery of clay of remarkable fineness and -delicacy, and beauty of colour. The productions issued by the works -are of great excellence in design and execution: they are deservedly -popular. - -[18] For several of the engravings that are introduced into the -following papers upon Alnwick Castle we desire to tender our best -thanks to his Grace the Duke of Northumberland; they were originally -printed in a history of the illustrious family of the Percies, of which -a few copies were presented to private friends. - -[19] Thus writes one of the Lords Wardens, _temp._ Eliz.: “God blessed -me so well in all my designs as I never made journey in vain, but did -what I went for;” _i.e._, “hanging or heading.” - -[20] The name of Alnwick has been variously spelt at different periods. -Thus, among other ways, it has been spelt Alnawic, Alnewyke, Alnewyc, -Alnewick, Annwik, Annewic, Annewyke, Anwik, Anwick, &c. Formerly it -appears to have been pronounced with the Scotch twang, _An-ne-wick_, -as though spelt in three syllables. It is now by all natives of the -place called Annick. _Aln_ (the name of the river), like the names of -our rivers, hills, and mountains, is Celtic, or ancient British, and -was given by one of the earliest tribes settling in Britain; for in -Hiberno-Celtic we have _Alain_, signifying white, bright, or clear. -Alnwick (_wick_ being a street, village, or dwelling-place), therefore, -is the town on the bright clear river. - -[21] The first Sir Hugh Smithson died in 1670: he had a nephew who was -a physician in Sussex, and spent almost all his fortune also in the -royal cause. His son again was a physician, and practised in London, -and married a daughter of Sir Edward Walpole, of Lincolnshire. The fact -of these two collaterals being medical men, probably gave rise to the -story of Sir Hugh having been brought up to be an apothecary. - -[22] Mr. Burrell had four daughters, of whom the eldest married -Captain Bennett, R.N.; the second married Lord Algernon Percy, -second son of the first duke, and was grandmother of the present -Duke of Northumberland; the third sister was the second Duchess of -Northumberland; and the youngest sister married, first, the Duke of -Hamilton, and, secondly, the Marquess of Exeter. Mr. Burrell’s only -son married a peeress in her own right, and was himself created Baron -Gwydyr. - -[23] Minute and most faithful descriptions of the restorations at -Alnwick Castle are given by Mr. George Tate, F.G.S., of Alnwick, in his -copious and excellent “History of the Borough, Castle, and Barony of -Alnwick,” a work which does honour to the literature, not of the north -only, but of England, and will always be highly esteemed as a valuable -contribution to that important department of the national literature -which comprehends our topographical histories. - -[24] There is, however, one of comparatively recent date, built on the -site of the ancient gate: it is still called the Potter Gate. - -[25] The fine five-light east window of St. Paul’s Church is filled -with some of the most remarkable stained glass in England; it was -executed by Max Ainmüller at Munich, in 1856, from cartoons designed -and drawn by Mr. Dyce, R.A., and is a memorial window erected by public -subscription to commemorate the noble founder of the church. - -[26] While serving in the Crusade under Richard, Earl of Cornwall, -Ralph Fulborne visited the friars who were then established upon Mount -Carmel; and attracted, it is said, by their piety and holy lives, he -brought back with him to his Northumbrian home some of the Carmelite -brethren, and built them a house in his own land, which might serve in -some degree to remind them of their Syrian Carmel: for at Hulne they -found a hill, with a river flowing at the foot of it, and around was a -forest, just as a forest had surrounded them when far away in the East. - -[27] The park and grounds are always freely open to “the people,” and, -on stated occasions, parts of the castle. This is a boon of magnitude, -not only to the inhabitants of the town and district, but to many who -come from far distances to obtain free air and healthful recreation -from Nature where her aspect is most cheering and her influence most -invigorating. On the 20th of August, 1868, on arriving at the Alnwick -Station, we met upwards of 2,000 men, women, and children, who had -been enjoying a day in the Park. It was the annual pic-nic of persons -employed by the Jarrow Chemical Works (Newcastle-on-Tyne), they were -accompanied, not only by the overseers, but the partners of the firm. A -more orderly crowd it would have been impossible to have met anywhere. - -[28] A further notice of Hobbes and his works will be found in our -account of Chatsworth, on a subsequent page. - -[29] In Domesday it is stated that in the time of King Edward the -Confessor the Castle of Arundel yielded 40_s._ for a mill, 20_s._ for -three feasts, and 20_s._ for a pasture. This is of itself sufficient -evidence of the high antiquity—going back to Saxon times—of the Castle -of Arundel. - -[30] It is a curious fact that the ground-rents accruing from streets -in the Strand, London—Arundel and Norfolk Streets—are still devoted to -the improving and repairing of Arundel Castle. In 1786, considerable -arrears being due, the tenants were called upon to pay them; but -refused, unless it were agreed to devote them, according to ancient -tenure, to such improvements and repairs. The then Duke of Norfolk was -compelled to yield a matter in serious dispute; and the result was a -thorough restoration of the venerable castle, which, up to that time, -had been almost such a ruin as it was left by Sir William Waller during -the war between the King and the Parliament. It is said that in these -restorations, between the years 1786 and 1816, no less a sum than -£600,000 was expended. - -[31] In 1863 Penshurst was visited by the Kent and Sussex Archæological -Society, when Mr. Parker, of Oxford (to whom archæology owes a large -debt of gratitude), read a paper descriptive of the seat of the -Sidneys. From that paper we shall quote:—“Mr. Parker said that in the -time of William the Conqueror there was a house of importance in that -place, occupied by a family named after it, Penchester (the castle on -the hill), which showed that the house was fortified at that time, -doubtless according to the fashion of the age, with deep trenches and -mounds and wooden palisades, as represented in the Bayeux tapestry; -and the house within the fortifications must have been a timber house, -because if a Norman keep had been there built, there would certainly be -some remains of it.” - -[32] To the park and to the several state rooms the public are on -fixed days freely, graciously, and most generously admitted; and the -history of the several leading attractions is related by attentive and -intelligent custodians. - -[33] Dr. Waagen writes thus of this marvellous work of the great -master:—“There is in these features a brutal egotism, an obstinacy, -and a harshness of feeling such as I have never yet seen in any human -countenance. In the eyes, too, there is the suspicious watchfulness of -a wild beast, so that I became quite uncomfortable from looking at it -for a long time; for the picture, a masterpiece of Holbein, is as true -in the smallest details as if the king himself stood before you.” - -[34] It is a pretty legend—and one to which we direct the attention -of artists—that while Guy was doing penance as a hermit, his lady was -mourning his absence, and praying for his return at the castle. It was -her daily custom to bestow alms upon the suffering, sorrowful, and -needy; and dole was, among others, frequently given to the husband by -the unconscious wife. He was dying at length, and then made himself -known to her by the transmission of a ring. So she watched, and prayed, -and comforted, beside his death-bed, surviving him but fourteen days; -and they were both buried in the cave where the poor penitent had lived -and died. - -[35] For an account of this stained glass see the “Archæological -Journal,” No. 84. - -[36] The bridge was erected at the commencement of the present century -by George Greville, Earl of Warwick. It is a single arch, forming the -segment of a circle, 105 feet in span. - -[37] A very pretty little book, entitled “The Peacock at Rowsley,” -by John Joseph Briggs. Esq., deserves a friendly recognition. As the -journal of a naturalist, an angler, and a lover of nature, it is so -sweetly written as to place its author, as a worthy associate, side by -side with dear “Old Izaak” or “White of Selborne.” - -[38] The old palace is now the stables; its roof of arches, supported -by corbels, is intact, and singularly beautiful. Immediately underneath -one of the windows is a stone with the inscription, “The last charger -of Arthur, Duke of Wellington (descended from his Waterloo charger, -Copenhagen), was presented by the second duke to Mary, Marchioness of -Salisbury, June 18, 1852, and was buried near this spot Feb. 24, 1861.” - -[39] Some highly interesting information upon this subject will be -found in Mr. Jewitt’s “Chatsworth.” - -[40] For the loan of the engravings of the Church, the Children’s -Cottage, the Statue of Sir R. Leveson, and the View from Tittensor we -are indebted to Messrs. Albut and Daniel, to whom we desire to express -our best thanks. - -[41] These are the charges which, according to Shakspere, Jack Cade -urged against the Lord Say:— - -“Thou hast most traitorously corrupted the youth of the realm, in -erecting a grammar-school: and whereas, before, our forefathers had no -other books but the score and the tally, thou hast caused printing to -be used; and, contrary to the king, his crown and dignity, thou hast -built a paper-mill. It will be proved to thy face, that thou hast men -about thee that usually talk of a noun, and a verb; and such abominable -words as no Christian ear can endure to hear. Thou hast appointed -justices of peace, to call poor men before them about matters they were -not able to answer. Moreover, thou hast put them in prison; and because -they could not read thou hast hanged them; when, indeed, only for that -cause they have been most worthy to live.” - -[42] For an account of this lady and the noble House of Manners see -“Belvoir Castle,” pages 6-14. - -[43] See page 39 for an account of this lady and her family. - -[44] The old castle of Henderskelf, an ancient seat of the Greystocks, -was built in the reign of Edward III.; it passed into the hands of the -Howards by the marriage of Belted Will with Bessie of the braid apron, -“the word Henderskelf; meaning hundred-hill, or the hill where the -hundreds meet.” - -[45] This bowl and the inscription are still preserved in the Almshouse - -[46] We believe, however, these interesting objects have been removed. - -[47] The prioress was, in right of her title, a baroness of England. It -was of the Benedictine order. - -[48] A _catalogue raisonné_ of the marbles is printed in the “Salisbury -Volume” of the Archæological Institute (1849), by Charles F. Newton, -Esq., M.A., of the British Museum. - -[49] The following is this curious report:— - -JOHN ROBINSON, ESQ., SECRETARY-GENERAL OF WOODS. - -_Report of Acorns planted in and about Windsor Great Park, &c._ - - Year when Computed number - planted. of Acorns planted. - - 1788 } - 1789 } 4,220,000 - 1790 } - - 1791 1,098,000 - - 1792 1,530,000 - - 1793 680,000 - - 1794 260,000 - - 1795 136,000 - - 1796 1,160,000 - - 1797 280,000 - - 1798 720,000 - - 1799 420,000 - - 1800 441,000 - - 1801 280,000 - - —————————— - - Total 11,225,000 - - -[50] We cordially recommend readers, for a description, with -engravings, of many of the principal inscribed stones in this -collection, to consult our friend Dr. Bruce’s superb work, the -“Lapidarium Septentrionale,” in which many of them are figured; to this -we are indebted for the accompanying beautiful engravings, which have -been placed at our disposal by Dr. Bruce. - -[51] The dimensions of some of these trees are as follows:—The Douglas -Fir (_Abies Douglasii_), 75 ft. in height, 6½ ft. circumference a -yard from the ground, and 49 ft. across from point to point of the -branches; _Abies Menziesii_, height 65 ft., girth 6 ft. at a yard -from the ground; _Picea Cephalonica_, 50 ft. high, girth 4 ft. at a -yard from the base; _Abies Canadensis_, 42 ft. in height, girth 3 -ft.; _Picea pinsapo_, 40 ft. high; and the “Adam and Eve” ash-trees, -one of which measures 21 ft. in girth at 5 ft. from the ground. For -these dimensions we are indebted to that admirable publication, the -_Gardener’s Chronicle_, in which an excellent account of the grounds of -Lowther appeared. To that publication we have to express our obligation -for the woodcut of the north front of the castle. “A.D. MDXCVIII ex -gravi peste, quæ regionibus hisce incubuit, obierunt apud Penrith 2260, -Kendal 2500, Richmond 2200, Carlisle 1196. Posteri, Avertite vos et -vivite.” - -[52] We need only to name one or two of Jacob Thompson’s pictures—the -“Harvest Home in the time of Queen Elizabeth,” the “Highland Ferry -Boat,” “The Proposal,” “Ulleswater from Sharrow Bay,” the “Highland -Bride’s Separation,” “Going to Church,” the “Mountain Ramblers,” -“Proserpine,” “Sunny Hours of Childhood,” the “Pet Lamb,” “The Signal,” -“Rush-bearing,” “The Vintage,” and “Homeward Bound”—to direct attention -to the marvels of high Art which issue from his pencil. - -[53] “Transactions of the Architectural Society of the Diocese of -Lincoln, 1860.” - -[54] Those who desire to know more of the neighbourhood cannot do -better than consult Mr. White’s “Worksop, the Dukery, and Sherwood -Forest:” it is an interesting, valuable, and useful book. To it we are -indebted for the engraving of the Greendale Oak on page 354. - -[55] “Le Methode nouvelle & Invention extraordinaire de dresser les -Chevaux, les travailler selon la nature et parfaire la nature par la -subtilité de l’art; la quelle n’a jamais été treuvée que. Par Le tres -noble, haut, et tres-puissant Prince Guillaume Marquis et Comte De -Newcastle, Viconte de Mansfield, Baron de Bolsover et Ogle, Seigneur -de Cavendish, Bothel et Hepwel; Pair d’Angleterre, Qui eut la charge -et l’honneur d’estre Gouverneur du Sereniss’me Prince de Galles en sa -jeunesse et maintainant Roy de la Grande Bretagne; Et d’avantage qui -est Lieutenant pour le Roy de la Comté de Nottingham et la Forest de -Sherwood; Capitaine-General en toutes provinces outre la Riviere de -Trent et autres endroits du Royaume d’Angleterre, Gentil-homme de la -Chambre du Lit du Roy; Conseiller d’Etat et Prive; et Chevalier de -l’Ordre tres-noble de la Iartiere, etc. A Anvers, chez Iacques Van -Meurs, l’an M.DC.LVIII.” - - - - - * * * * * * - - - - -Transcriber's note: - -Obvious errors were corrected. - -Several occurences in the text of unpaired double quotation marks -were not corrected. - - - -***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE STATELY HOMES OF ENGLAND*** - - -******* This file should be named 51173-0.txt or 51173-0.zip ******* - - -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: -http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/5/1/1/7/51173 - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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