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- page-break-after: always; - margin: 0; - padding-top: 6em; - } -} - -/* Easy Epub/Cover */ - -.covercaption {font-weight: bold; font-size: small;} -@media handheld { - .covercaption { display: none; } -} - -div.tnotes {background-color: #eeeeee; border: 1px solid black; padding: 1em;} -.covernote {visibility: hidden; display: none;} -@media handheld { - .covernote {visibility: visible; display: block;} -} - .poem span.i0 {display: block; margin-left: 0em; padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em;} - .poem span.i10 {display: block; margin-left: 5em; padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em;} - .poem span.i12 {display: block; margin-left: 6em; padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em;} - .poem span.i14 {display: block; margin-left: 7em; padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em;} - .poem span.i18 {display: block; margin-left: 9em; padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em;} - .poem span.i2 {display: block; margin-left: 1em; padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em;} - .poem span.i20 {display: block; margin-left: 10em; padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em;} - .poem span.i22 {display: block; margin-left: 11em; padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em;} - .poem span.i4 {display: block; margin-left: 2em; padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em;} - .poem span.i6 {display: block; margin-left: 3em; padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em;} - .poem span.i8 {display: block; margin-left: 4em; padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em;} - -/* Easy Epub/Dropcaps Without illustration */ - -.drop-capw { - text-indent: 0em; -} -.drop-capw:first-letter -{ - float: left; - margin: 0.15em 0.1em 0em 0em; - font-size: 250%; - line-height:0.85em; -} -@media handheld -{ - .drop-capw:first-letter - { - float: none; - margin: 0; - font-size: 100%; - } -} - - hr.full { width: 100%; - margin-top: 3em; - margin-bottom: 0em; - margin-left: auto; - margin-right: auto; - height: 4px; - border-width: 4px 0 0 0; /* remove all borders except the top one */ - border-style: solid; - border-color: #000000; - clear: both; } - </style> -</head> -<body> -<h1>The Project Gutenberg eBook, A Book of Dartmoor, by S. (Sabine) -Baring-Gould</h1> -<p>This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States -and most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no -restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it -under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this -eBook or online at <a -href="http://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a>. If you are not -located in the United States, you'll have to check the laws of the -country where you are located before using this ebook.</p> -<p>Title: A Book of Dartmoor</p> -<p> Second Edition</p> -<p>Author: S. (Sabine) Baring-Gould</p> -<p>Release Date: February 6, 2016 [eBook #51134]</p> -<p>Language: English</p> -<p>Character set encoding: UTF-8</p> -<p>***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A BOOK OF DARTMOOR***</p> -<p> </p> -<h4>E-text prepared by Richard Tonsing, David Edwards,<br /> - and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team<br /> - (<a href="http://www.pgdp.net">http://www.pgdp.net</a>)<br /> - from page images generously made available by<br /> - Internet Archive<br /> - (<a href="https://archive.org">https://archive.org</a>)</h4> -<p> </p> -<table border="0" style="background-color: #ccccff; margin-left: 20%; margin-right: 20%;" cellpadding="10"> - <tr> - <td valign="top"> - Note: - </td> - <td> - Images of the original pages are available through - Internet Archive. See - <a href="https://archive.org/details/bookofdartmoor00bari"> - https://archive.org/details/bookofdartmoor00bari</a> - </td> - </tr> -</table> -<p> </p> -<hr class="full" /> -<p> </p> -<p> </p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_i" id="Page_i">[Pg i]</a></span></p> - -<div id="halftitle"> - - - - -<p class="ph1">A BOOK OF DARTMOOR</p> -</div> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_ii" id="Page_ii">[Pg ii]</a></span></p> -<div class="center"> -<p>BY THE SAME AUTHOR -</p> - -<ul><li>THE LIFE OF NAPOLEON BONAPARTE</li> -<li>THE TRAGEDY OF THE CÆSARS</li> -<li>STRANGE SURVIVALS</li> -<li>SONGS OF THE WEST</li> -<li>A GARLAND OF COUNTRY SONG</li> -<li>OLD COUNTRY LIFE</li> -<li>YORKSHIRE ODDITIES</li> -<li>OLD ENGLISH FAIRY TALES</li> -<li>A BOOK OF GHOSTS</li> -<li>THE VICAR OF MORWENSTOW</li> -<li>A BOOK OF NURSERY SONGS AND RHYMES</li> -<li>A BOOK OF FAIRY TALES</li> -</ul> - -<p>UNIFORM WITH THIS VOLUME -</p> - -<ul><li>A BOOK OF BRITTANY</li> -<li>A BOOK OF CORNWALL</li> -<li>A BOOK OF DEVON</li> -<li>A BOOK OF NORTH WALES</li> -<li>A BOOK OF SOUTH WALES</li> -<li>A BOOK OF THE RHINE</li> -<li>A BOOK OF THE RIVIERA</li> -<li>A BOOK OF THE PYRENEES</li> -</ul></div> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_iii" id="Page_iii">[Pg iii]</a><br /><a name="Page_iv" id="Page_iv">[Pg iv]</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> -<img src="images/frontis.jpg" width="700" height="470" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p>YES TOR</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_v" id="Page_v">[Pg v]</a></span></p> -<div id="titlepage"> -<div class="chapter"></div> -<hr class="chap" /> - - - - -<h1><span class="xlarge">A</span><br /> - -BOOK OF DARTMOOR</h1> - - -<p class="large p4">BY S. BARING-GOULD</p> - -<p class="small p6">WITH SIXTY ILLUSTRATIONS</p> - -<p class="xsmall p6">SECOND EDITION</p> - -<p class="p6">METHUEN & CO.<br /> -36 ESSEX STREET W.C.<br /> -LONDON -</p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_vi" id="Page_vi">[Pg vi]</a></span></p> - -<p class="center p6"><em>First Published</em> <em>July 1900</em></p> - -<p class="center"><em>Second Edition</em> <em>January 1907</em> -</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_vii" id="Page_vii">[Pg vii]</a></span></p> - -<p class="center p6">TO THE MEMORY OF<br /> -MY UNCLE</p> - -<p class="center">THE LATE</p> - -<p class="center">THOMAS GEORGE BOND</p> - -<p class="center">ONE OF THE PIONEERS OF<br /> -DARTMOOR EXPLORATION -</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_viii" id="Page_viii">[Pg viii]</a><br /><a name="Page_ix" id="Page_ix">[Pg ix]</a></span></p> -<div class="chapter"></div> -<hr class="chap" /> - - - - -<h2>PREFACE</h2> - - -<p class="drop-capw"><span class="smcap">At</span> the request of my publishers I have written -<cite>A Book of Dartmoor</cite>. I had already dealt -with this upland district in two chapters in my -<cite>Book of the West</cite>, vol. i., "Devon." But in their -opinion this wild and wondrous region deserved -more particular treatment than I had been able to -accord to it in the limited space at my disposal in -the above-mentioned book.</p> - -<p>I have now entered with some fulness, but by no -means exhaustively, into the subject; and for those -who desire a closer acquaintance with, and a more -precise guide to the several points of interest on -"the moor," I would indicate three works that have -preceded this.</p> - -<p>1. Mr. J. Brooking Rowe in 1896 republished the -<cite>Perambulation of Dartmoor</cite>, first issued by his great-uncle, -Mr. Samuel Rowe, in 1848.</p> - -<p>The original work was written by a man whose -mind was steeped in the crude archæological theories -of his period. The new editor could not dispense<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_x" id="Page_x">[Pg x]</a></span> -with this matter, which pervaded the work, without a -complete recasting of the book, and this he was reluctant -to attempt. He limited himself to cautioning -the reader to put no trust in these exploded theories. -The result is that the reader is tripping over uncertain -ground, never knowing what is to be accepted -and what rejected.</p> - -<p>2. Mr. J. H. W. Page's <cite>Exploration of Dartmoor</cite>, -1889, is admirable as a guide. The author, however, -was unhappily ignorant of prehistoric archæology, -and allowed himself to be led astray by the false -antiquarianism that had marked the early writers. -Consequently, his book is capital as a guide to what -is to be seen, but eminently unreliable in its explanation -of the character and age of the antiquities.</p> - -<p>3. A capital book is Mr. W. Crossing's <cite>Amid -Devonia's Alps</cite>, 1888, which is wholly free from -pseudo-antiquarianism. It is brief, it is small and -cheap, and an admirable handbook for pedestrians.</p> - -<p>In no way do I desire to supersede these works. -I have taken pains rather to supplement them than -to step into the places occupied by their writers.</p> - -<p>The plan I have adopted in this gossiping volume -is to give a general idea of the moor and of its -antiquities—the latter as interpreted by up-to-date -archæologists—and then to suggest rambles made<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xi" id="Page_xi">[Pg xi]</a></span> -from certain stations on the fringe, or in the heart of -the region.</p> - -<p>Here and there it has been inevitable that I should -twice mention the same object of interest, once in -the introductory portion, and again when I have to -refer to it as coming within the radius of a proposed -ramble.</p> - -<p>As a boy I had an uncle, T. G. Bond, who lived -near Moreton Hampstead, and who was passionately -devoted to Dartmoor. He inspired me with the -same love. In 1848 he presented me, as a birthday -present, with Rowe's <cite>Perambulation of Dartmoor</cite>. -It arrested my attention, engaged my imagination, -and was to me almost as a Bible. When I obtained -a holiday from my books, I mounted my pony and -made for the moor. I rode over it, round it, put up -at little inns, talked with the moormen, listened to -their tales and songs in the evenings, and during the -day sketched and planned the relics that I then -fondly supposed were Druidical.</p> - -<p>The child is father to the man. Years have rolled -away. I have wandered over Europe, have rambled -to Iceland, climbed the Alps, been for some years -lodged among the marshes of Essex—yet nothing -that I have seen has quenched in me the longing -after the fresh air, and love of the wild scenery of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xii" id="Page_xii">[Pg xii]</a></span> -Dartmoor. There is far finer mountain scenery elsewhere, -but there can be no more bracing air, and the -lone upland region possesses a something of its own—a -charm hard to describe, but very real—which -engages for once and for ever the affections of those -who have made its acquaintance. "After all said," -observed my uncle to me one day, when my father -had dilated on the glories of the Pyrenees, "Dartmoor -is to itself, and to me—a passion." And to his -memory I dedicate this volume.</p> - -<p>My grateful thanks are due to Messrs. R. Burnard, -P. F. S. Amery, J. Shortridge, and C. E. Robinson -for permission to employ photographs taken by -them.</p> - -<p class="right">S. BARING-GOULD</p> - -<p> -<span class="smcap">Lew Trenchard, Devon</span><br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xiii" id="Page_xiii">[Pg xiii]</a></span></p> -<div class="chapter"></div> -<hr class="chap" /> - - - - -<h2>CONTENTS</h2> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="CONTENTS"> - <tr> - <th colspan="2">CHAPTER</th> - <th>PAGE</th> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr">I.</td> - <td><span class="smcap">Bogs</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_1">1</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr">II.</td> - <td><span class="smcap">Tors</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_14">14</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr">III.</td> - <td><span class="smcap">The Ancient Inhabitants</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_29">29</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr">IV.</td> - <td><span class="smcap">The Antiquities</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_52">52</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr">V.</td> - <td><span class="smcap">The Freaks</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_74">74</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr">VI.</td> - <td><span class="smcap">Dead Men's Dust</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_82">82</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr">VII.</td> - <td><span class="smcap">The Camps</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_97">97</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr">VIII.</td> - <td><span class="smcap">Tin-streaming</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_108">108</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr">IX.</td> - <td><span class="smcap">Lydford</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_124">124</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr">X.</td> - <td><span class="smcap">Belstone</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_144">144</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr">XI.</td> - <td><span class="smcap">Chagford</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_157">157</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr">XII.</td> - <td><span class="smcap">Manaton</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_171">171</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr">XIII.</td> - <td><span class="smcap">Holne</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_193">193</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr">XIV.</td> - <td><span class="smcap">Ivybridge</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_209">209</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr">XV.</td> - <td><span class="smcap">Yelverton</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_220">220</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr">XVI.</td> - <td><span class="smcap">Post Bridge</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_241">241</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdr">XVII.</td> - <td><span class="smcap">Princetown</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_259">259</a></td> - </tr> -</table></div> -<div class="chapter"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xiv" id="Page_xiv">[Pg xiv]</a></span></div> -<hr class="chap" /> - - - - -<h2>ILLUSTRATIONS</h2> - - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="ILLUSTRATIONS"> - <caption>FULL-PAGE</caption> - <tr> - <td><span class="smcap">Yes Tor</span></td> - <td colspan="2" class="tdr"><em><a href="#Page_iii">Frontispiece</a></em></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdp">From a drawing by E. A. Tozer, Esq.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><span class="smcap">A Tor, showing Granite Weathering</span></td> - <td><em>To face page</em> </td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_14">14</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdp">From a photograph by J. Shortridge, Esq.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><span class="smcap">Vixen Tor</span></td> - <td class="tdc">"</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_18">18</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdp">From a photograph by J. Shortridge, Esq.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><span class="smcap">Rocks by Hey Tor</span></td> - <td class="tdc">"</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_24">24</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdp">From a photograph by J. Amery, Esq.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><span class="smcap">The Pedigree of a Tomb</span></td> - <td class="tdc">"</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_56">56</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdp">From a drawing by S. Baring-Gould.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><span class="smcap">Stone Rows, Drizzlecombe</span></td> - <td class="tdc">"</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_60">60</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdp">From a drawing by S. Baring-Gould.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><span class="smcap">The Pedigree of a Headstone</span></td> - <td class="tdc">"</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_64">64</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdp">From a drawing by S. Baring-Gould.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><span class="smcap">Bowerman's Nose</span></td> - <td class="tdc">"</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_74">74</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdp">From a drawing by A. B. Collier, Esq.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><span class="smcap">Whit Tor Camp</span></td> - <td class="tdc">"</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_97">97</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdp">Planned by Rev. J. K. Anderson, drawn by S. Baring-Gould.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><span class="smcap">Brent Tor</span></td> - <td class="tdc">"</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_102">102</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdp">From a drawing by E. A. Tozer, Esq.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><span class="smcap">Blowing-house under Black Tor</span></td> - <td class="tdc">"</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_108">108</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdp">From a drawing by A. B. Collier, Esq.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><span class="smcap">On the Lyd</span></td> - <td class="tdc">"</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_124">124</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdp">From a drawing by E. A. Tozer, Esq.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><span class="smcap">Hare Tor</span></td> - <td class="tdc">"</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_141">141</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdp">From a drawing by E. A. Tozer, Esq.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><span class="smcap">North Wyke Gate House</span></td> - <td class="tdc">"</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_152">152</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdp">From a drawing by Mrs. C. L. Weekes.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><span class="smcap">Grimspound</span></td> - <td class="tdc">"</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_165">165</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdp">From a photograph by C. E. Robinson, Esq.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xv" id="Page_xv">[Pg xv]</a></span></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><span class="smcap">Near Manaton</span></td> - <td class="tdc">"</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_171">171</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdp">From a drawing by A. B. Collier, Esq.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><span class="smcap">Hound Tor</span></td> - <td class="tdc">"</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_175">175</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdp">From a drawing by E. A. Tozer, Esq.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><span class="smcap">Hey Tor Rocks</span></td> - <td class="tdc">"</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_176">176</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdp">From a drawing by E. A. Tozer, Esq.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><span class="smcap">Lower Tar</span></td> - <td class="tdc">"</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_190">190</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdp">From a photograph by J. Amery, Esq.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><span class="smcap">The Cleft Rock</span></td> - <td class="tdc">"</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_196">196</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdp">From a photograph by J. Amery, Esq.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><span class="smcap">Yar Tor</span></td> - <td class="tdc">"</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_199">199</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdp">From a drawing by E. A. Tozer, Esq.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><span class="smcap">The Dewerstone</span></td> - <td class="tdc">"</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_220">220</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdp">From a drawing by E. A. Tozer, Esq.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><span class="smcap">Sheeps Tor</span></td> - <td class="tdc">"</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_225">225</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdp">From a drawing by A. B. Collier, Esq.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><span class="smcap">Portion of Screen, Sheeps Tor</span></td> - <td class="tdc">"</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_228">228</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdp">Drawn by F. Bligh Bond, Esq.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><span class="smcap">On the Meavy</span></td> - <td class="tdc">"</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_231">231</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdp">Drawn by A. B. Collier, Esq.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><span class="smcap">Lake-head Kistvaen</span></td> - <td class="tdc">"</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_244">244</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdp">From a photograph by R. Burnard, Esq.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><span class="smcap">Staple Tor</span></td> - <td class="tdc">"</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_269">269</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdp">From a photograph by J. Shortridge, Esq.</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><span class="smcap">Blowing-house on the Meavy</span></td> - <td class="tdc">"</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_270">270</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdp">Drawn by A. B. Collier, Esq.</td> - </tr> -</table></div> - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="IN THE TEXT"> - <caption>IN THE TEXT</caption> - <tr> - <th></th> - <th>PAGE</th> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><span class="smcap">Flint Arrow-heads</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_37">37</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><span class="smcap">Flint Scrapers</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_45">45</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><span class="smcap">A Cooking-pot</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_46">46</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><span class="smcap">Flint Scrapers</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_49">49</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><span class="smcap">Fragment of Cooking-pot</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_50">50</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><span class="smcap">Cross, Whitchurch Down</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_65">65</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><span class="smcap">Plan of Hut, Shapley Common</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_67">67</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><span class="smcap">Hut Circle, Grimspound</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_69">69</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><span class="smcap">Logan Rock. The Rugglestone, Widdecombe</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_77">77</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xvi" id="Page_xvi">[Pg xvi]</a></span></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><span class="smcap">Roos Tor Logans</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_79">79</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><span class="smcap">Covered Chamber, Whit Tor</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_100">100</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><span class="smcap">Construction of Stone and Timber Wall</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_101">101</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><span class="smcap">Tin-workings, Nillacombe</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_109">109</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><span class="smcap">Mortar-stone, Okeford</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_111">111</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><span class="smcap">Slag-pounding Hollows, Gobbetts</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_113">113</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><span class="smcap">Smelting in 1556</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_114">114</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><span class="smcap">Plan of Blowing-house, Deep Swincombe</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_115">115</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><span class="smcap">Tin-mould, Deep Swincombe</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_117">117</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><span class="smcap">Smelting Tin in Japan</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_119">119</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><span class="smcap">A Primitive Hinge</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_133">133</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><span class="smcap">Inscription on Sourton Cross</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_142">142</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><span class="smcap">Inscribed Stone, Sticklepath</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_150">150</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><span class="smcap">Plan of Stone Rows near Caistor Rock</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_161">161</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdp">" " <span class="smcap">Grimspound</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_166">166</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="tdp">" " <span class="smcap">Hut at Grimspound</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_169">169</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><span class="smcap">Fragment of Pottery</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_177">177</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><span class="smcap">Ornamented Pottery</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_179">179</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><span class="smcap">Tom Pearce's Ghostly Mare</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_191">191</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><span class="smcap">Crazing-mill Stone, Upper Gobbetts</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_204">204</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><span class="smcap">Method of using the Mill-stones</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_205">205</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><span class="smcap">Chancel Capital, Meavy</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_237">237</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td><span class="smcap">Blowing-house below Black Tor</span></td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_271">271</a></td> - </tr> -</table></div> - -<p class="ph1">DARTMOOR -</p> -<div class="chapter"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[Pg 1]</a></span></div> -<hr class="chap" /> - - - - -<h2>CHAPTER I.<br /> - -BOGS</h2> - -<div class="hangindent"> - -<p>The rivers that flow from Dartmoor—The bogs are their cradles—A -tailor lost on the moor—A man in Aune Mire—Some of the worst -bogs—Cranmere Pool—How the bogs are formed—Adventure in -Redmoor Bog—Bog plants—The buckbean—Sweet gale—Furze—Yellow -broom—Bee-keeping.</p></div> - - -<p class="drop-capw"><span class="smcap">Dartmoor</span> proper consists of that upland -region of granite, rising to nearly 2,000 feet -above the sea, and actually shooting above that -height at a few points, which is the nursery of many -of the rivers of Devon.</p> - -<p>The Exe, indeed, has its source in Exmoor, and it -disdains to receive any affluents from Dartmoor; and -the Torridge takes its rise hard by the sea at Wellcombe, -within a rifle-shot of the Bristol Channel, -nevertheless it makes a graceful sweep—tenders a -salute—to Dartmoor, and in return receives the -liberal flow of the Okement. The Otter and the -Axe, being in the far east of the county, rise in the -range of hills that form the natural frontier between -Devon and Somerset.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">[Pg 2]</a></span></p> - -<p>But all the other considerable streams look back -upon Dartmoor as their mother.</p> - -<p>And what a mother! She sends them forth limpid -and pure, full of laughter and leap, of flash and brawl. -She does not discharge them laden with brown mud, -as the Exe, nor turned like the waters of Egypt to -blood, as the Creedy.</p> - -<p>A prudent mother, she feeds them regularly, and -with considerable deliberation. Her vast bogs act as -sponges, absorbing the winter rains, and only leisurely -and prudently does she administer the hoarded supply, -so that the rivers never run dry in the hottest and -most rainless summers.</p> - -<p>Of bogs there are two sorts, the great parental -peat deposits that cover the highland, where not -too steep for them to lie, and the swamps in the -bottoms formed by the oozings from the hills that -have been arrested from instant discharge into the -rivers by the growth of moss and water-weeds, or -are checked by belts of gravel and boulder. To -see the former, a visit should be made to Cranmere -Pool, or to Cut Hill, or Fox Tor Mire. To get into -the latter a stroll of ten minutes up a river-bank will -suffice.</p> - -<p>The existence of the great parent bogs is due -either to the fact that beneath them lies the impervious -granite, as a floor, somewhat concave, or to the -whole rolling upland being covered, as with a quilt, -with equally impervious china-clay, the fine deposit -of feldspar washed from the granite in the course -of ages.</p> - -<p>In the depths of the moor the peat may be seen<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[Pg 3]</a></span> -riven like floes of ice, and the rifts are sometimes -twelve to fourteen feet deep, cut through black vegetable -matter, the product of decay of plants through -countless generations. If the bottom be sufficiently -denuded it is seen to be white and smooth as a girl's -shoulder—the kaolin that underlies all.</p> - -<p>On the hillsides, and in the bottoms, quaking-bogs -may be lighted upon or tumbled into. To light upon -them is easy enough, to get out of one if tumbled into -is a difficult matter. They are happily small, and -can be at once recognised by the vivid green pillow -of moss that overlies them. This pillow is sufficiently -close in texture and buoyant to support a man's -weight, but it has a mischievous habit of thinning -around the edge, and if the water be stepped into -where this fringe is, it is quite possible for the inexperienced -to go under, and be enabled at his leisure to -investigate the lower surface of the covering <em>duvet</em> of -porous moss. Whether he will be able to give to the -world the benefit of his observations may be open to -question.</p> - -<p>The thing to be done by anyone who gets into -such a bog is to spread his arms out—this will -prevent his sinking—and if he cannot struggle out, -to wait, cooling his toes in bog water, till assistance -comes. It is a difficult matter to extricate horses -when they flounder in, as is not infrequently the -case in hunting; every plunge sends the poor beasts -in deeper.</p> - -<p>One afternoon, in the year 1851, I was in the -Walkham valley above Merrivale Bridge digging into -what at the time I fondly believed was a tumulus,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[Pg 4]</a></span> -but which I subsequently discovered to be a mound -thrown up for the accommodation of rabbits, when -a warren was contemplated on the slope of Mis Tor.</p> - -<p>Towards evening I was startled to see a most -extraordinary object approach me—a man in a -draggled, dingy, and disconsolate condition, hardly -able to crawl along. When he came up to me he -burst into tears, and it was some time before I -could get his story from him. He was a tailor of -Plymouth, who had left his home to attend the -funeral of a cousin at Sampford Spiney or Walkhampton, -I forget which. At that time there was -no railway between Tavistock and Launceston; -communication was by coach.</p> - -<p>When the tailor, on the coach, reached Roborough -Down, "'Ere you are!" said the driver. "You go -along there, and you can't miss it!" indicating a -direction with his whip.</p> - -<p>So the tailor, in his glossy black suit, and with his -box-hat set jauntily on his head, descended from -the coach, leaped into the road, his umbrella, also -black, under his arm, and with a composed countenance -started along the road that had been pointed -out.</p> - -<p>Where and how he missed his way he could not -explain, nor can I guess, but instead of finding -himself at the house of mourning, and partaking there -of cake and gin, and dropping a sympathetic tear, -he got up on to Dartmoor, and got—with considerable -dexterity—away from all roads.</p> - -<p>He wandered on and on, becoming hungry, feeling -the gloss go out of his new black suit, and raws<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[Pg 5]</a></span> -develop upon his top-hat as it got knocked against -rocks in some of his falls.</p> - -<p>Night set in, and, as Homer says, "all the paths -were darkened"—but where the tailor found himself -there were no paths to become obscured. He lay in -a bog for some time, unable to extricate himself. -He lost his umbrella, and finally lost his hat. His -imagination conjured up frightful objects; if he did -not lose his courage, it was because, as a tailor, he -had none to lose.</p> - -<p>He told me incredible tales of the large, glaring-eyed -monsters that had stared at him as he lay in -the bog. They were probably sheep, but as nine -tailors fled when a snail put out its horns, no wonder -that this solitary member of the profession was -scared at a sheep.</p> - -<p>The poor wretch had eaten nothing since the -morning of the preceding day. Happily I had -half a Cornish pasty with me, and I gave it him. -He fell on it ravenously.</p> - -<p>Then I showed him the way to the little inn at -Merrivale Bridge, and advised him to hire a trap -there and get back to Plymouth as quickly as -might be.</p> - -<p>"I solemnly swear to you, sir," said he, "nothing -will ever induce me to set foot on Dartmoor again. -If I chance to see it from the Hoe, sir, I'll avert -my eyes. How can people think to come here -for pleasure—for pleasure, sir! But there, Chinamen -eat birds'-nests. There are depraved appetites among -human beings, and only unwholesome-minded individuals -can love Dartmoor."</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[Pg 6]</a></span></p> - -<p>There is a story told of one of the nastiest of mires -on Dartmoor, that of Aune Head. A mire, by the -way, is a peculiarly watery bog, that lies at the head -of a river. It is its cradle, and a bog is distributed -indiscriminately anywhere.</p> - -<p>A mire cannot always be traversed in safety; much -depends on the season. After a dry summer it is -possible to tread where it would be death in winter -or after a dropping summer.</p> - -<p>A man is said to have been making his way -through Aune Mire when he came on a top-hat -reposing, brim downwards, on the sedge. He gave -it a kick, whereupon a voice called out from beneath, -"What be you a-doin' to my 'at?" The man replied, -"Be there now a chap under'n?" "Ees, I reckon," -was the reply, "and a hoss under me likewise."</p> - -<p>There is a track through Aune Head Mire that can -be taken with safety by one who knows it.</p> - -<p>Fox Tor Mire once bore a very bad name. The -only convict who really got away from Princetown -and was not recaptured was last seen taking a bee-line -for Fox Tor Mire. The grappling irons at the -disposal of the prison authorities were insufficient -for the search of the whole marshy tract. Since the -mines were started at Whiteworks much has been -done to drain Fox Tor Mire, and to render it safe for -grazing cattle on and about it.</p> - -<p>There is a nasty little mire at the head of Redaven -Lake, between West Mill Tor and Yes Tor, and -there is a choice collection of them, inviting the -unwary to their chill embraces, on Cater's Beam, -about the sources of the Plym and Blacklane Brook,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</a></span> -the ugliest of all occupying a pan and having no -visible outlet. The Redlake mires are also disposed -to be nasty in a wet season, and should be avoided -at all times. Anyone having a fancy to study the -mires and explore them for bog plants will find an -elegant selection around Wild Tor, to be reached by -ascending Taw Marsh and mounting Steeperton Tor, -behind which he will find what he desires.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>"On the high tableland," says Mr. William Collier, -"above the slopes, even higher than many tors, are the -great bogs, the sources of the rivers. The great northern -bog is a vast tract of very high land, nothing but bog and -sedge, with ravines down which the feeders of the rivers -pour. Here may be found Cranmere Pool, which is now -no pool at all, but just a small piece of bare black bog. -Writers of Dartmoor guide-books have been pleased -to make much of this Cranmere Pool, greatly to the -advantage of the living guides, who take tourists there -to stare at a small bit of black bog, and leave their -cards in a receptacle provided for them. The large bog -itself is of interest as the source of many rivers; but -there is absolutely no interest in Cranmere Pool, which is -nothing but a delusion and a snare for tourists. It was -a small pool years ago, where the rain water lodged; but -at Okement Head hard by a fox was run to ground, a -terrier was put in, and by digging out the terrier Cranmere -Pool was tapped, and has never been a pool since. So -much for Cranmere Pool!</p> - -<p>"This great northern bog, divided into two sections by -Fur Tor and Fur Tor Cut, extends southwards to within -a short distance of Great Mis Tor, and is a vast receptacle -of rain, which it safely holds throughout the driest summer.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[Pg 8]</a></span> -Fur Tor Cut is a passage between the north and south parts -of this great bog, evidently cut artificially for a pass for -cattle and men on horseback from Tay Head, or Tavy -Head, to East Dart Head, forming a pass from west to -east over the very wildest part of Dartmoor. Anyone can -walk over the bogs; there is no danger or difficulty to a -man on foot unless he gets exhausted, as some have done. -But horses, bullocks, and sheep cannot cross them. A -man on horseback must take care where he goes, and -this Fur Tor Cut is for his accommodation."<a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a></p></div> - -<p>The Fur Tor Mire is not composed of black but -of a horrible yellow slime. There is no peat in it, -and to cross it one must leap from one tuft of coarse -grass to another. The "mires" are formed in basins -of the granite, which were originally lakes or tarns, -and into which no streams fall bringing down detritus. -They are slowly and surely filling with vegetable -matter, water-weeds that rot and sink, and as this -vegetable matter accumulates it contracts the area -of the water surface. In the rear of the long sedge -grass or bogbean creeps the heather, and a completely -choked-up mire eventuates in a peat bog. -Granite has a tendency to form saucer-like depressions. -In the Bairischer Wald, the range dividing -Bavaria from Bohemia, are a number of picturesque -tarns, that look as though they occupied the craters -of extinct volcanoes. This, however, is not the case; -the rock is granite, but in this case the lakes are so -deep that they have not as yet been filled with<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</a></span> -vegetable deposit. On the Cornish moors is Dosmare -Pool. This is a genuine instance of the lake -in a granitic district. In Redmoor, near Fox Tor, on -the same moors, we have a similar saucer, with a -granitic lip, over which it discharges its superfluous -water, but it is already so much choked with vegetable -growth as to have become a mire. Ten thousand -years hence it will be a great peat bog.</p> - -<p>I had an adventure in Redmoor, and came nearer -looking into the world beyond than has happened -to me before or since. Although it occurred on the -Cornish moors, it might have chanced on Dartmoor, -in one of its mires, for the character of both is the -same, and I was engaged in the same autumn on -both sets of moors. Having been dissatisfied with -the Ordnance maps of the Devon and Cornish moors, -and desiring that certain omissions should be corrected, -I appealed to Sir Charles Wilson, of the -Survey, and he very readily sent me one of his -staff, Mr. Thomas, to go over the ground with me, -and fill in the particulars that deserved to be added. -This was in 1891. The summer had been one of -excessive rain, and the bogs were swollen to bursting. -Mr. Thomas and I had been engaged, on November -5th, about Trewartha Marsh, and as the day closed -in we started for the inhabited land and our lodgings -at "Five Janes." But in the rapidly closing day we -went out of our course, and when nearly dark found -ourselves completely astray, and worst of all in a -bog. We were forced to separate, and make our -way as best we could, leaping from one patch of -rushes or moss to another. All at once I went in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</a></span> -over my waist, and felt myself being sucked down -as though an octopus had hold of me. I cried out, -but Thomas could neither see me nor assist me had -he been able to approach. Providentially I had a -long bamboo, like an alpenstock, in my hand, and I -laid this horizontally on the surface and struggled -to raise myself by it. After some time, and with -desperate effort, I got myself over the bamboo, and -was finally able to crawl away like a lizard on my -face. My watch was stopped in my waistcoat pocket, -one of my gaiters torn off by the suction of the bog, -and I found that for a moment I had been submerged -even over one shoulder, as it was wet, and the moss -clung to it.</p> - -<p>On another occasion I went with two of my -children, on a day when clouds were sweeping across -the moor, over Langstone Moor. I was going to -the collection of hut circles opposite Greenaball, on -the shoulder of Mis Tor. Unhappily, we got into the -bog at the head of Peter Tavy Brook. This is by no -means a dangerous morass, but after a rainy season -it is a nasty one to cross.</p> - -<p>Simultaneously down on us came the fog, dense -as cotton wool. For quite half an hour we were -entangled in this absurdly insignificant bog. In getting -about in a mire, the only thing to be done is -to leap from one spot to another where there seems -to be sufficient growth of water-plants and moss -to stay one up. In doing this one loses all idea -of direction, and we were, I have no doubt, forming -figures of eight in our endeavours to extricate ourselves. -I knew that the morass was inconsiderable in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</a></span> -extent, and that by taking a straight line it would be -easy to get out of it, but in a fog it was not possible -to take a bee-line. Happily, for a moment the -curtain of mist lifted, and I saw on the horizon, -standing up boldly, the stones of the great circle -that is planted on the crest. I at once shouted -to the children to follow me, and in two minutes -we were on solid land.</p> - -<p>The Dartmoor bogs may be explored for rare -plants and mosses. The buckbean will be found -and recognised by its three succulent sea-green -leaflets, and by its delicately beautiful white flower -tinged with pink, in June and July. I found it -in 1861 in abundance in Iceland, where it is -called <em>Alptar colavr</em>, the swan's clapper. About -Hamburg it is known as the "flower of liberty," -and grows only within the domains of the old -Hanseatic Republic. In Iceland it serves a double -purpose. Its thickly interwoven roots are cut and -employed in square pieces like turf or felt as -a protection for the backs of horses that are laden -with packs. Moreover, in crossing a bog, the -clever native ponies always know that they can -tread safely where they see the white flower stand -aloft.</p> - -<p>The golden asphodel is common, and remarkably -lovely, with its shades of yellow from the deep-tinted -buds to the paler expanded flower. The -sundew is everywhere that water lodges; the sweet -gale has foliage of a pale yellowish green sprinkled -over with dots, which are resinous glands. The -berries also are sprinkled with the same glands.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</a></span> -The plant has a powerful, but fresh and pleasant, -odour, which insects dislike. Country people were -wont to use sprigs of it, like lavender, to put with -their linen, and to hang boughs above their beds. -The catkins yield a quantity of wax. The sweet -gale was formerly much more abundant, and was -largely employed; it went by the name of the -Devonshire myrtle. When boiled, the wax rises -to the surface of the water. Tapers were made -of it, and were so fragrant while burning, that -they were employed in sick-rooms. In Prussia, -at one time, they were constantly furnished for -the royal household.</p> - -<p>The marsh helleborine, <i lang="la">Epipactis palustris</i>, may -be gathered, and the pyramidal orchis, and butterfly -and frog orchises, occasionally.</p> - -<p>The furze—only out of bloom when Love is out -of tune—keeps away from the standing water. It -is the furze which is the glory of the moor, with -its dazzling gold and its honey breath, fighting for -existence against the farmer who fires it every year, -and envelops Dartmoor in a cloud of smoke from -March to June. Why should he do this instead of -employing the young shoots as fodder?</p> - -<p>I think that as Scotland has the thistle, Ireland -the shamrock, and Wales the leek as their emblems, -we Western men of Devon and Cornwall should -adopt the furze. If we want a day, there is that of -our apostle S. Petrock, on June 4th.</p> - -<p>By the streams and rivers and on hedge-banks the -yellow broom blazes, yet it cannot rival in intensity -of colour and in variety of tint the magnificent furze<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</a></span> -or gorse. But the latter is not a pleasant plant to -walk amidst, owing to its prickles, and especial care -must be observed lest it affix one of these in the -knee. The spike rapidly works inwards and produces -intense pain and lameness. The moment it -is felt to be there, the thing to be done is immediately -to extract it with a knife. From the blossoms of -the furze the bees derive their aromatic honey, -which makes that of Dartmoor supreme. Yet beekeeping -is a difficulty there, owing to the gales, that -sweep the busy insects away, so that they fail to -find their direction home. Only in sheltered combes -can they be kept.</p> - -<p>The much-relished Swiss honey is a manufactured -product of glycerine and pear-juice; but Dartmoor -honey is the sublimated essence of ambrosial sweetness -in taste and savour, drawn from no other source -than the chalices of the golden furze, and compounded -with no adventitious matter.</p> - -<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> "Dartmoor," in the <cite>Transactions of the Plymouth Institution</cite>, -1897-8.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</a></span></p></div></div> -<div class="chapter"></div> -<hr class="chap" /> - - - - -<h2>CHAPTER II.<br /> - -TORS</h2> - -<div class="hangindent"> - -<p>Dartmoor from a distance—Elevation—The tors—Old lake-beds—"Clitters"—The -boldest tors—Luminous moss—The whortleberry—Composition -of granite—Wolfram—The "forest" and its surrounding -commons—Venville parishes—Encroachment of culture on the -moor—The four quarters—A drift—Attempts to reclaim the moor—Flint -finds—The inclosing of commons.</p></div> - - -<p class="drop-capw"><span class="smcap">Seen</span> from a distance, as for instance from -Winkleigh churchyard, or from Exbourne, Dartmoor -presents a stately appearance, as a ridge of -blue mountains rising boldly against the sky out of -rolling, richly wooded under-land.</p> - -<p>But it is only from the north and north-west that it -shows so well. From south and east it has less -dignity of aspect, as the middle distance is made -up of hills, as also because the heights of the -encircling tors are not so considerable, nor is their -outline so bold.</p> - -<p>Indeed, the southern edge of Dartmoor is conspicuously -tame. It has no abrupt and rugged -heights, no chasms cleft and yawning in the range, -such as those of the Okement and the Tavy and Taw. -And to the east much high ground is found rising in -stages to the fringe of the heather-clothed tors.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> -<img src="images/p014.jpg" width="700" height="497" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p>A TOR, SHOWING WEATHERING OF GRANITE</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</a></span></p> - -<p>Dartmoor, consisting mainly of a great upheaved -mass of granite, and of a margin of strata that have -been tilted up round it, forms an elevated region some -thirty-two miles from north to south and twenty from -east to west. The heated granite has altered the -slates in contact with it, and is itself broken through -on the west side by an upward gush of molten matter -which has formed Whit Tor and Brent Tor.</p> - -<p>The greatest elevations are reached on the outskirts, -and there, also, is the finest scenery. The -interior consists of rolling upland. It has been -likened to a sea after a storm suddenly arrested and -turned to stone; but a still better resemblance, if not -so romantic, is that of a dust-sheet thrown over the -dining-room chairs, the backs of which resemble the -tors divided from one another by easy sweeps of turf.</p> - -<p>Most of the heights are crowned with masses of -rock standing up like old castles; these, and these -only, are tors.<a name="FNanchor_2_2" id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> Such are the worn-down stumps -of vast masses of mountain formation that have disappeared. -There are no lakes on or about the moor, -but this was not always so. Where is now Bovey -Heathfield was once a noble sheet of water fifty -fathoms deep. Here have been found beds of lignite, -forests that have been overwhelmed by the wash from -the moor, a canoe rudely hollowed out of an oak, -and a curious wooden idol was exhumed leaning -against a trunk of tree that had been swallowed up -in a freshet. The canoe was nine feet long. Bronze -spear-heads have also been found in this ancient -lake, and moulds for casting bronze instruments. A -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</a></span>representation of the idol was given in the <cite>Transactions -of the Devonshire Association</cite> for 1875.</p> - -<p>The new Plymouth Reservoir overlies an old lake-bed. -Taw Marsh was also once a sheet of rippling -blue water, but the detritus brought down in the -weathering of what once were real mountains has filled -them all up. Dartmoor at present bears the same -relation to Dartmoor in the far past that the gums -of an old hag bear to the pearly range she wore -when a fresh girl. The granite of Dartmoor was not -well stirred before it was turned out, consequently -it is not homogeneous. Granite is made up of -many materials: hornblende, feldspar, quartz, mica, -schorl, etc. Sometimes we find white mica, sometimes -black. Some granite is red, as at Trowlesworthy, -and the beautiful band that crosses the Tavy -at the Cleave; sometimes pink, as at Leather Tor; -sometimes greenish, as above Okery Bridge; sometimes -pure white, as at Mill Tor.</p> - -<p>The granite is of very various consistency, and -this has given it an appearance on the tors as if -it were a sedimentary rock laid in beds. But this -is its little joke to impose on the ignorant. The -feature is due to the unequal hardness of the rock -which causes it to weather in strata.</p> - -<p>The fine-grained granite that occurs in dykes is -called elvan, which, if easiest to work, is most liable to -decay. In Cornwall the elvan of Pentewan was used -for the fine church of S. Austell, and as a consequence -the weather has gnawed it away, and the greater part -has had to be renewed. On the other hand, the -splendid elvan of Haute Vienne has supplied the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</a></span> -cathedral of Limoges with a fine-grained material that -has been carved like lace, and lasts well.</p> - -<p>The drift that swept over the land would appear to -have been from west to east, with a trend to the -south, as no granite has been transported, except in -the river-beds to the north or west, whereas blocks -have been conveyed eastward. This is in accordance -with what is shown by the long ridges of clay on the -west of Dartmoor, formed of the rubbing down of -the slaty rocks that lie north and north-west. These -bands all run north and south on the sides of hills, -and in draining processes they have to be pierced -from east to west. This indicates that at some period -during the Glacial Age there was a wash of water -from the north-west over Devon, depositing clay and -transporting granite.</p> - -<p>On the sides of the tors are what are locally termed -"clitters" or "clatters" (Welsh <em>clechr</em>), consisting of -a vast quantity of stone strewn in streams from the -tors, spreading out fanlike on the slopes. These are -the wreckage of the tor when far higher than it is -now, <em>i.e.</em> of the harder portions that have not been -dissolved and swept away.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>"The tors—Nature's towers—are huge masses of granite -on the top of the hills, which are not high enough to -be called mountains, piled one upon another in Nature's -own fantastic way. There may be a tor, or a group of tors, -crowning an eminence, but the effect, either near or afar, is -to give the hilltop a grand and imposing look. These -large blocks of granite, poised on one another, some -appearing as if they must fall, others piled with curious -regularity—considering they are Nature's work—are the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</a></span> -prominent features in a Dartmoor landscape, and, wild as -parts of Dartmoor are, the tors add a notable picturesque -effect to the scene. There are very fine tors on the western -side of the moor. Those on the east and south are not so -fine as those on the north and west. In the centre of the -moor there are also fine tors. They are, in fact, very numerous, -for nearly every little hill has its granite cap, which is -a tor, and every tor has its name. Some of the high hills -that are tor-less are called beacons, and were doubtless used -as signal beacons in times gone by. As the tors are not -grouped or built with any design by Nature to attract the -eye of man, they are the more attractive on that account, -and one of their consequent peculiarities is that from different -points of view they never appear the same. There can -be no sameness in a landscape of tors when every tor -changes its features according to the point of view from -which you look at it. Every tor also has its heap of rock -at its feet, some of them very striking jumbles of blocks of -granite scattered in great confusion between the tor and the -foot of the hill. Fur Tor, which is in the very wildest spot -on Dartmoor, and is one of the leading tors, has a <em>clitter</em> of -rocks on its western side as remarkable as the tor itself; -Mis Tor, also on its western side, has a very fine clitter -of granite; Leather Tor stands on the top of a mass of -granite rocks on its east and south sides; and Hen Tor, on -the south quarter, is surrounded with blocks of granite, with -a hollow like the crater of a volcano, as if they had been -thrown up by a great convulsion of Nature. Hen Tor is -remarkable chiefly for this wonderful mass of granite blocks -strewn around it. All the moor has granite boulders -scattered about, but they accumulate at the feet of the tors -as if for their support."<a name="FNanchor_3_3" id="FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a></p></div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 531px;"> -<img src="images/p018.jpg" width="531" height="700" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p>VIXEN TOR</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</a></span></p> - -<p>Here among the clitters, where they form caves, -a search may be made for the beautiful moss -<i lang="la">Schistostega osmundacea</i>. It has a metallic lustre -like green gold, and on entering a dark place under -rocks, the ground seems to be blazing with gold. -In Germany the Fichtel Gebirge are of granite, -and the Luchsen Berg is so called because there -in the hollow under the rocks grew abundance of -the moss glittering like the eyes of a lynx. The -authorities of Alexanderbad have had to rail in -the grottoes to prevent the <em>gold moss</em> from being -carried off by the curious. Murray says of these -retreats of the luminous moss:—</p> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>"The wonder of the place is the beautiful phosphorescence -which is seen in the crannies of the rocks, and -which appears and disappears according to the position -of the spectator. This it is which has given rise to -the fairy tales of gold and gems with which the gnomes -and cobolds tantalise the poor peasants. The light -resembles that of glow-worms; or, if compared to a -precious stone, it is something between a chrysolite and -a cat's-eye, but shining with a more metallic lustre. On -picking up some of it, and bringing it to the light, nothing -is found but dirt."</p></div> - -<p>Professor Lloyd found that the luminous appearance -was due to the presence of small crystals in the -structure which reflect the light. Coleridge says:—</p> - -<div class="center"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">"'Tis said in Summer's evening hour,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Flashes the golden-coloured flower,<br /></span> -<span class="i10">A fair electric light."<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</a></span></p> -<p>In 1843, when the luminosity of plants was -recorded in the <cite>Proceedings of the British Association</cite>, -Mr. Babington mentioned having seen in the -south of England a peculiar bright appearance -produced by the presence of the <i lang="la">Schistostega pennata</i>, -a little moss which inhabited caverns and dark -places: but this was objected to on the ground -that the plant reflected light, and did not give it -off in phosphorescence.<a name="FNanchor_4_4" id="FNanchor_4_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a></p> - -<p>When lighted on, it has the appearance of a -handful of emeralds or aqua marine thrown into -a dark hole, and is frequently associated with the -bright green liverwort. Parfitt, in his <cite>Moss Flora -of Devon</cite>, gives it as <em>osmundacea</em>, not as <em>pennata</em>. -It was first discovered in Britain by a Mr. Newberry, -on the road from Zeal to South Tawton; it is, however, -to be found in a good many places, as Hound -Tor, Widdecombe, Leather Tor, and in the Swincombe -valley, also in a cave under Lynx Tor. If -found, please to leave alone. Gathered it is invisible; -the hand or knife brings away only mud.</p> - -<p>But what all are welcome to go after is that which -is abundant on every moorside—but nowhere finer -than on such as have not been subjected to periodical -"swaling" or burning. I refer to the whortleberry. -This delicious fruit, eaten with Devonshire cream, -is indeed a delicacy. A gentleman from London -was visiting me one day. As he was fond of good -things, I gave him whortleberry and cream. He -ate it in dead silence, then leaned back in his chair,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</a></span> -looked at me with eyes full of feeling, and said, "I -am thankful that I have lived to this day."</p> - -<p>The whortleberry is a good deal used in the south -of France for the adulteration and colouring of claret, -whole truck-loads being imported from Germany.</p> - -<p>There is an interesting usage in my parish, and I -presume the same exists in others. On one day in -summer, when the "whorts" are ripe, the mothers -unite to hire waggons of the farmers, or borrow -them, and go forth with their little ones to the -moor. They spend the day gathering the berries, -and light their fires, form their camp, and have their -meals together, returning late in the evening, very -sunburnt, with very purple mouths, very tired maybe, -but vastly happy, and with sufficient fruit to sell -to pay all expenses and leave something over.</p> - -<p>If the reader would know what minerals are found -on Dartmoor he must go elsewhere.</p> - -<p>I have a list before me that begins thus: "Allophane, -actinolite, achroite, andalusite, <em>apatite</em>"—but -I can copy out no more. I have often found -<em>appetite</em> on Dartmoor, but have not the slightest -suspicion as to what is apatite. The list winds -up with wolfram, about which I can say something. -Wolfram is a mineral very generally found along -with tin, and that is just the "cussedness" of it, -for it spoils tin.</p> - -<p>When tin ore is melted at a good peat fire, out -runs a silver streak of metal. This is brittle as -glass, because of the wolfram in it. To get rid of -the wolfram the whole has to be roasted, and the -operation is delicate, and must have bothered our<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</a></span> -forefathers considerably. By means of this second -process the wolfram, or tungsten as it is also called, -is got rid of.</p> - -<p>Now, it is a curious fact that the tin of Dartmoor -is of extraordinary purity; it has little or none of -this abominable wolfram associated with it, so that -it is by no means improbable that the value of tin -as a metal was discovered on Dartmoor, or in some -as yet unknown region where it is equally unalloyed.</p> - -<p>In Cornwall all the tin is mixed with tungsten. -Now this material has been hitherto regarded as -worthless; it has been sworn at by successive generations -of miners since mining first began. But all -at once it has leaped into importance, for it has -been discovered to possess a remarkable property -of hardening iron, and is now largely employed for -armour-plated vessels. From being worth nothing -it has risen to a rapidly rising value, as we are -becoming aware that we shall have to present impenetrable -sides to our Continental neighbours.</p> - -<p>Dartmoor comprises the "forest" and the surrounding -commons, as extensive together as the forest itself. -"What have you got on you, little girl?" asked -a good woman of a shivering child. "Please, mem, -first there's a jacket, then a gownd, and then comes -Oi." So with Dartmoor. First come the venville -parishes, next their extensive commons, and "then -comes Oi," the forest itself.</p> - -<p>The venville parishes are all moorland parishes—Belstone, -Throwleigh, Gidleigh, Chagford, North -Bovey, Manaton, Widdecombe, Holne, Buckfastleigh, -Dean Prior, South Brent, Shaugh, Meavy,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a></span> -Sheeps Tor, Walkhampton, Sampford Spiney, Whitchurch, -Peter Tavy, Lydford, Bridestowe, Sourton. -There are others, standing like the angel of the -Apocalypse, with one foot on the moorland, the -other steeped in the green waves of foliage of the -lowlands; such are South Tawton, Cornwood, and -Tavistock. Others, again, as Lustleigh, Bridford, -Moreton, Buckland-in-the-Moor, Ilsington, and Ugborough, -must surely have been moorland settlements -at one time, and Okehampton itself is as distinctly -a moor town as is Moreton, which tells its -own tale in its name. But all these have their warm -envelope of arable land, groves and woods, farms -and hamlets. Such have their commons, over which -every householder has a right to send cattle, to take -turf and stone, and, alas! with the connivance of the -other householders, to inclose. This inclosing has -been going on at a great rate in some of the parishes. -For instance, common rights are exercised by the -householders of South Zeal over an immense tract -of land on the north side of Cosdon. Of late years -they have put their heads together and decided, as -they are few in number, to appropriate it to themselves -as private property, and inclosures have proceeded -at a rapid rate.</p> - -<p>In Bridestowe there is a tract of open land on -which the poor cotters have, from time immemorial, -kept their cows. But they are tenants, and not householders, -and have consequently no rights. The seven -or eight owners have combined to inclose and sell or -let for building purposes all that tract of moor, and -the cotters have lost their privilege of keeping cows.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span> -What we see now going on under our eyes has been -going on from time immemorial. Parishes have encroached, -and the genuine forest has shrunk together -before them. The commons still exist, and are extensive, -but they are being gradually and surely -reduced. "Then comes Oi!" Look at the map -and see of what the forest really consists. It surely -must have been larger formerly.</p> - -<p>On the forest itself are a certain number of -"ancient tenements," thirty-five in all. These are -of remote antiquity. On certainly most of them, -probably on all, the plough and the hoe turn up -numerous flint tools, weapons, and chips—sure proof -that they were settlements in prehistoric times. -These tenements are at Brimpts, Hexworthy, -Huccaby, Bellever, Dunnabridge, Baberry, Pizwell, -Runnage, Sherberton, Riddons, Merripit, Hartland, -Broom Park, Brown Berry, and Prince Hall. These -were held—and some still are—by copy of the -Court Roll, and the holders are bound to do suit -and service at the Court. It is customary for every -holder on accession to the holding to inclose a tract -of a hundred acres, and this inclosure constitutes his -newtake.</p> - -<p>The forest belongs to the Prince of Wales, but I -believe has never been visited by him. Were he to -do so, he would be surprised, and perhaps not a little -indignant, to see how his tenants are housed. A -forest does not necessarily signify a wood. It is a -place for wild beasts. The origin of the word is not -very clear. Lindwode says, "A Forest is a place -where are wild beasts; whereas a Park is a place -where they are shut in." Ockam says, "A Forest is -a safe abode for wild beasts," and derives the word -from <em>feresta</em>, <em>i.e.</em> a place for wild creatures. It was, in -fact, a tract of uninclosed land reserved for the king -to hunt in, and a <em>chase</em> was a similar tract reserved by -the lord of the manor for his own hunting.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> -<img src="images/p024.jpg" width="700" height="490" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p>ROCKS NEAR HEY TOR</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</a></span></p> - -<p>It is more than doubtful whether Dartmoor was -ever covered with trees. No doubt there have been -trees in the bottoms, and indeed oak has been -taken from some of the bogs; but the charcoal found -in the fire-pits of the primitive inhabitants of the -moor in the Bronze Age shows that, even in the prehistoric -period, the principal wood was alder, and that -such oak as there was did not grow to a large size, -and was mainly confined to the valleys that opened -out of the moor into the lowlands. Up these, doubtless, -the forest crept. Elsewhere there may have -been clusters of stunted trees, of which the only -relics are Piles and Wistman's Wood. There were -some very fine oaks at Brimpts, and also in Okehampton -Park, but these were cut down during the -European war with Napoleon. After the wood at -Brimpts had fallen under the axe, it was found that -the cost of carriage would be so great that the timber -was sold for a mere trifle, only sufficient to pay for -the labour of cutting it down.</p> - -<p>The forest is divided into four quarters, in each of -which, except the western, is a pound for stray -cattle. Formerly the Forest Reeve privately communicated -with the venville men when he had fixed -a day for a "drift," which was always some time -about midsummer. Then early in the morning all<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</a></span> -assembled mounted. A horn was blown through -a holed stone set up on a height, and the drift began. -Cattle or horses were driven to a certain point, at -which stood an officer of the Duchy on a stone, and -read a proclamation, after which the owners were -called to claim their cattle or ponies. Venville -tenants removed them without paying any fine, but -all others were pounded, and their owners could not -recover them without payment of a fine.</p> - -<p>The Duchy Pound is at Dunnabridge, where is -a curious old seat within the inclosure for the -adjudicator of fines and costs. It is apparently a -cromlech that has been removed or adapted. The -Duchy now lets the quarters to the moormen, who -charge a small fee for every sheep, bullock, or -horse turned out on the moor not belonging to a -venville man, and for this fee they accord it their -protection.</p> - -<p>A good deal of money has been expended on -the reclaiming of Dartmoor. Sir Thomas Tyrwhitt, -Usher of the Black Rod, was Warden of the Stannary -and Steward of the Forest for George IV. when -Prince of Wales. He fondly supposed that he had -discovered an uncultivated land, which needed only -the plough and some lime to make its virgin soil -productive. He induced others to embark on the -venture. Swincombe and Stannon were started to -become fine farm estates. Great entrance gates were -erected to where mansions were proposed to be built. -But those who had leased these lands found that the -draining of the bogs drained their pockets much -faster than the mires, and abandoned the attempt<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span> -which had ruined them. Others followed. Prince's -Hall was rebuilt with fine farm buildings by a Mr. -Fowler from the north of England, who expended -his fortune there and left a disappointed man. -Before him Sir Francis Buller, who had bought -Prince's Hall, planted there forty thousand trees—such -as are not dead are distorted starvelings. Mr. -Bennett built Archerton, near Post Bridge, and inclosed -thousands of acres. He cannot have recovered -a sum approaching his outlay in the sixty years of -his tenancy. The fact is that Dartmoor is cut out -by Nature to be a pasturage for horses, cattle, and -sheep in the summer months, and for that only. -In the burning and dry summers of 1893, 1897, and -1899 tens of thousands of cattle were sent there, -even from so far off as Kent, where water and -pasturage were scarce, and on the moor they both -are ever abundant.</p> - -<p>Tenements there must be, but they should be -in the sheltered valleys, and the wide hillsides and -sweeps of moor should be left severely alone. As -it is, encroachments have gone on unchecked, rather -have been encouraged. Every parish in Devon has -a right to send cattle to the moor, excepting only -Barnstaple and Totnes. But the Duchy, by allowing -and favouring inclosures, is able to turn common -land into private property, and that it is only too -willing to do.</p> - -<p>Happily there now exists a Dartmoor Preservation -Society, which is ready to contest every attempt -made in this direction. But it can do very little to -protect the commons around the forest—in fact it<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span> -can do nothing, if the freeholders in the parishes that -enjoy common rights agree together to appropriate -the land to themselves—and for the poor labourer -who is able to buy himself a cow it can do nothing -at all, for his rights have no legal force.</p> - -<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_2_2" id="Footnote_2_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> The Welsh <em>twr</em> is a tower; <em>twrr</em>, a heap or pile. From the same -root as the Latin <em>turris</em>.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_3_3" id="Footnote_3_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> <span class="smcap">Collier</span>, <i lang="la">op. cit.</i></p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_4_4" id="Footnote_4_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4_4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a> <span class="smcap">Hardwicke's</span> <cite>Science Gossip</cite>, 1871, p. 123.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span></p></div></div> -<div class="chapter"></div> -<hr class="chap" /> - - - - -<h2>CHAPTER III.<br /> - -THE ANCIENT INHABITANTS</h2> - -<div class="hangindent"> - -<p>Abundance of remains of primeval inhabitants—No trace of Briton or -Saxon on Dartmoor—None of Palæolithic man—The Neolithic man -who occupied it—Account of his migrations—His presence in -Ireland, in China, in Algeria—A pastoral people—The pottery—The -arrival of the Celt in Britain in two waves—The Gael—The -Briton—Introduction of iron—Mode of life of the original occupants -of the moor—The huts—Pounds—Cooking—Tracklines—Enormous -numbers who lived on Dartmoor—A peaceable people.</p></div> - - -<p class="drop-capw"><span class="smcap">Probably</span> no other tract of land of the same -extent in England contains such numerous and -well-preserved remains of prehistoric antiquity as -Dartmoor.</p> - -<p>The curious feature about them is that they all -belong to one period, that of the Early Bronze, when -flint was used abundantly, but metal was known, -and bronze was costly and valued as gold is now.</p> - -<p>Not a trace has been found so far of the peoples -who intervened between these primitive occupants -and the mediæval tin-miners.</p> - -<p>If iron was introduced a couple of centuries before -the Christian era, how is it that the British inhabitants -who used iron and had it in abundance have left -no mark of their occupancy of Dartmoor? It can -be accounted for only on the supposition that they -did not value it. The woods had been thinned<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span> -and they preferred the lowlands, whereas in the -earlier period the dense forests that clothed the -country were too close a jungle and too much infested -by wolves to be suitable for the habitation of a -pastoral people.</p> - -<p>That under the Roman domination the tin was -worked on the moor there is no evidence to show. -No Roman coins have been found there except -a couple brought by French prisoners to Princetown.</p> - -<p>It may be said that iron would corrode and -disappear, whereas flint is imperishable, and bronze -nearly so. But where is Roman pottery? Where -is even the pottery of the Celtic period? An era -is distinguished by its fictile ware. A huge gap in -historic continuity is apparent. All the earthenware -found on Dartmoor is either prehistoric or mediæval, -probably even so late as the reign of Elizabeth.</p> - -<p>No indication is found that the Saxons worked the -tin or even drove their cattle on to the moor. In -Domesday Book Dartmoor is not even mentioned. -It is hard to escape the conclusion that from the -close of the prehistoric period to that of our Plantagenet -kings, Dartmoor was avoided as a waste, -inhospitable region.</p> - -<p>Of man in the earliest period at which he is known -to have existed—the so-called Palæolithic man—not -a trace has been found on Dartmoor. Probably when -he lived in Britain the whole upland was clothed in -snow. He has left his tools in the Brixham and -Torquay caves—none in the bogs of the moor. -Indeed, when these bogs have been dug into, there -are not the smallest indications found of man having<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span> -visited the moor before the advent of what is called -the Neolithic Age.</p> - -<p>About the man of this period I must say something, -as he in his day lived in countless swarms on -this elevated land. He may have lived also in the -valleys of the lowlands, but his traces there have -been obliterated by the plough. First of all as to -his personal appearance. He was dark-haired, tall, -and his head was long, like that of a new-born child, -or boat-shaped, a form that disappears with civilisation, -and resolves itself into the long face instead of -the long head.</p> - -<p>At some period, vastly remote, a great migration -of a long-headed race took place from Central Asia. -It went forth in many streams. One to the east -entered Japan; probably the Chinese and Anamese -represent another. But we are mainly concerned -with the western outpour. It traversed Syria, and -Gilead and Moab are strewn with its remains, hut -circles, dolmens, and menhirs identical with those -on Dartmoor. Hence one branch passed into Arabia, -where, to his astonishment, Mr. Palgrave lighted on -replicas of Stonehenge.<a name="FNanchor_5_5" id="FNanchor_5_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_5_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span></p> - -<p>Another branch threw itself over the Himalayas, -and covered India with identical monuments. Again -another turned west; it traversed the Caspian and -left innumerable traces along the northern slopes of -the Caucasus. The Kuban valley is crowded with -their dolmens. They occupied the Crimea, and then -struck for the Baltic. That a branch had passed -through Asia Minor and Greece, and constituted -itself as the Etruscan power in Italy, is probable but -not established. The northern stream strewed Mecklenburg -and Hanover with its remains, occupied -Denmark and Lower Sweden, crossed into Britain, -and took complete possession of the British Isles. -Other members of the same swarm skirted the -Channel and crowded the plateaux and moors of -Western and Central France with their megalithic -remains. The same people occupied Spain and -Portugal, the Balearic Isles, Corsica and Sardinia, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span>and Northern Africa, and are now represented by -the Koumirs and Kabyles. To this race the name -of Iberian, Ivernian, or Silurian has been given. It -contributed its name to Ireland (Erin or <em>Ierne</em>), where -it maintained itself, but was known to the conquering -Gaels as the Tuatha da Danann and Firbolgs, two -branches of the same stock. The name of Damnonia -given to Devon is probably due to these same -Danann, who were also found in the south of Scotland. -When this great people reached Europe, Japan, -India, Africa, before its branches had begun to ramify -to east and west, to south and north, its religious -doctrines and its practices had become stereotyped, -and almost ineradicably ingrained into the consciousness -of the entire stock.</p> - -<p>If we desire to understand what their peculiar -views were, what were the dominant ideas which -directed their conduct, and which led them to erect -the monuments which are marvels to us, even at the -present day, we must go to China.</p> - -<p>Let us look for a moment into China at the present -day. At first sight, the Chinese strike us as being -not only geographically our antipodes, but as being -our opposites in every particular—mental, moral, -social; in language as in ideas.</p> - -<p>The Chinese language is without an alphabet and -without a grammar. It is made up of monosyllables -that acquire their significance by the position in -which they are placed in a sentence. In customs -the Chinese differ from us as much. In mourning -they wear white; a Chinese dinner begins with the -dessert and ends with the soup; a scholar, to recite<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span> -his lessons, turns his back on the teacher. But it -is chiefly in the way in which the living and the -dead are regarded as forming an indissoluble -commonwealth, that the difference of ideas is most -pronounced. Regard for the dead is the first obligation -to a Chinese. A man of the people who -is ennobled, ennobles, not his descendants, but his -ancestry. The duty of the eldest son of the family -is to maintain the worship of the ancestors. Denial -of a sepulchre is the most awful punishment that -can be inflicted; a Chinese will cheerfully commit -suicide to gain a suitable tomb and cult after death. -The most sacred spot on earth is the mausoleum, -and that is perpetually inviolable. Consequently, if -this principle could be carried out to the letter, the -earth would be transformed into one vast necropolis, -from the occupation of which the living would be -in time entirely excluded. It is this respect for -graves which stands in the way of the execution -of works of public utility, such as canals and -railroads; and it is the imperious obligation of -maintaining the worship of ancestors that blocks conversion -to Christianity. It is resentment against lack -of respect shown to the dead, neglect of duty to the -dead, which has provoked the massacres of Christians. -A Chinese, under certain circumstances, is justified -in strangling his father, but not in omitting to worship -him after he has throttled him.</p> - -<p>On the great Thibet plateau, geographically contiguous -to the Chinese, and under the Empire of -China, the Mongol nomads are so absolutely devoid -of a grain of respect for their dead, that, without<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span> -the smallest scruple, they leave the corpses of their -parents and children on the face of the desert, to be -devoured by dogs and preyed on by vultures.</p> - -<p>If we look at the Nile valley we see that the -ancient Egyptians were dominated by the same -ideas as the Chinese. To them the tomb was the -habitation <i lang="fr">par excellence</i> of the family. Of the -dwelling-houses of the old Egyptians the remains -are comparatively mean, but their mausoleums are -palatial. The house for the living was but as a -tent, to be removed; but the mansion of the dead -was a dwelling-place for ever.</p> - -<p>Not only so, but just as the ancient Egyptian -supposed that the <em>Ka</em>, the soul, or one of the souls -of the deceased, occupied the monument, tablet, or -obelisk set up in memorial of the dead, so does the -Chinese now hold that a soul, or emanation from -the dead, enters into and dwells in the memorial -set up, apart from the tomb, to his honour.</p> - -<p>Now if we desire to discover what was the distinguishing -motive in life of the long-headed Neolithic -man, we shall find it in his respect for the dead; and -he has stamped his mark everywhere where he has -been by the stupendous tombs he has erected, at -vast labour, out of unwrought stones. He cannot -be better described than as the dolmen-builder; that -is to say, the man who erected the family or tribal -ossuaries that remain in such numbers wherever he -has planted his foot.</p> - -<p>In China, it is true, there are no dolmens, but for -this there is a reason. Before the descendants of the -Hundred Families who entered the Celestial Empire<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span> -had reached and obtained possession of mountains -whence stone could be quarried, many centuries -elapsed, and forced the Chinese to make shift with -other material than stone, and so formed their habit -of entombment without stone; but the frame of -mind which, in a rocky land, would have prompted -them to set up dolmens remained unchanged, and so -remains to the present day.</p> - -<p>The exploration of dolmens in Europe reveals that -they were family or tribal burial-places, and were -used for a long continuance of time. The dead to -be laid in them were occasionally brought from a -distance, as the bones show indication of having -been cleaned of the flesh with flint scrapers, and -to have been rearranged in an irregular and unscientific -manner, a left leg being sometimes applied -to a right thigh; or it may be that on the anniversary -of an interment the bones of the deceased were -taken out, scraped and cleaned, and then replaced.</p> - -<p>In Algeria, and on the edge of the Sahara, are -found great trilithons, that is to say, two huge upright -stones, with one laid across at the top, forming -doorways leading to nothing, but similar to those -which are found at Stonehenge.</p> - -<p>What was this significance?</p> - -<p>We turn to the Chinese for an explanation, and -find that to this day they erect triumphal gates—not -now of stone, but of wood—in memory of and in -honour of such widows as commit suicide so as to join -their dear departed husbands in the world of spirits. -On the other hand, our widows forget us and remarry.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> -<img src="images/p037.jpg" width="700" height="565" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p>FLINT ARROW-HEADS.</p> - -<p>(Actual size.)</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The dolmen-builders were people with flocks and -herds, and who cultivated grain and spun yarn. -Their characteristic implement is the so-called celt, -in reality an axe, sometimes perforated for the reception -of a handle, most commonly not. The -perforation belongs to the latest stage of Neolithic -civilisation. Their weapons, or tools, were first -ground. In about a score of places in France polishing -rocks exist, marked with the furrows made by -the axe when worked to and fro upon them, and -others that are smaller have been removed to -museums. At Stoney-Kirk, in Wigtownshire, a -grinding-stone of red sandstone, considerably hollowed -by use, was found with a small, unfinished -axe of Silurian schist lying upon it. In the recent<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span> -exploration of hut circles at Legis Tor a grindstone -was found in one of the habitations, and on it an -incomplete tool that was abandoned there before -it was finished.</p> - -<p>After grinding, these implements underwent laborious -polishing by friction with the hand or with -leather.</p> - -<p>At the same time that these artificially smoothed -tools were fabricated, flint was used, beautifully -chipped and flaked, to form arrow and spear heads -and swords. The arrow-heads are either leaf-shaped -or tanged.</p> - -<p>The pottery of the dolmen-builders is very rude. -It is made of clay mingled with coarse fragments -of stone or shell, is very thick and badly tempered; -it is hand-made, and seems hardly capable of enduring -exposure to a brisk fire. The vessels have usually -broad mouths, with an overhanging rim like a turned-back -glove-cuff, and below this the vessel rapidly -slopes away. The ornamentation is constant everywhere. -It consisted of zigzags, chevrons, depressions -made by twisted cord, and finger-nail marks in rings -round the bowls or rims. It was not till late in the -Bronze Age that circles and spirals were adopted.</p> - -<p>Celtic ornamentation is altogether different.</p> - -<p>Whilst the long-headed dolmen-builder crept along -the coast of Europe, there was growing up among -the mountains and lakes of Central Europe a hardy -round-headed race—the Aryan, destined to be his -master. Was it through instinct of what was to be, -that the Ivernian shrank from penetrating into the -heart of the Continent, and clung to the seaboard?</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span></p> - -<p>When the dolmen-builder arrived in Britain, to -the best of our knowledge, he found no one there. -On the Continent, on the other hand, if he went -far inland, he not only clashed with the Aryan -round-heads, but also here and there stumbled on -the lingering remains of the primeval Palæolithic -people, who have left their remains in England in -the river-drift, and in Devon in the Brixham caves -and Kent's Hole.</p> - -<p>The dolmen-builder has persisted in asserting -himself. Though cranial modifications have taken -place, the dusky skin, and the dark eyes and hair -and somewhat squat build, have remained in the -Western Isles, in Western Ireland, in Wales, and in -Cornwall. It is still represented in Brittany. It is -predominant in South-Western France, and is typical -in Portugal.</p> - -<p>After a lapse of time, of what duration we know -not, a great wave of Aryans poured from the -mountains of Central Europe, and, traversing Britain, -occupied Ireland. This was the Gael. This people -subjugated the Ivernian inhabitants, and rapidly -mixed with them, imposing on them their tongue, -except in South Wales, where the Silurian was -found to have retained his individuality when conquered -by Agricola in <span class="smcap">A.D.</span> 78. But if the Gaelic -invaders subjugated the Ivernians, they were in turn -conquered by them, though in a different manner. -The strongly marked religious ideas of the long-headed -men, and their deeply rooted habit of -worship of ancestors, impressed and captured the -imagination of their masters, and as the races<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span> -became fused, the mixed race continued to build -dolmens and erect other megalithic monuments once -characteristic of the long-heads, often on a larger -scale than before. Stonehenge and Avebury were -erections of the Bronze Period, and late in it, and of -the composite people.</p> - -<p>If we look at the physique of the two races, we -find a great difference between them. The Ivernian -was short in stature, with a face mild in expression, -oval, without high cheek-bones, and without strongly -characterised supraciliary ridges. The women were -all conspicuously smaller than the men, and of -markedly inferior development. The conquering -race was other. The lower jaw was massive and -square at the chin, the molar bones prominent, -and the brows heavy. The head was remarkably -short, and the face expressed vigour, was coarse, -and the aspect threatening. Moreover, the women -were as fully developed as the men, so much so that -where all the bones are not present it is not always -easy to distinguish the sex of a skeleton of this race. -What Tacitus says of the German women—that they -are almost equal to the men both in strength and in -size—applies also to these round-headed invaders of -Britain; and, indeed, what we are assured of the -Britons in the time of Boadicea, that it was <i lang="la">solitum -feminarum ductu bellare</i>, shows us that the same -masculine character belonged to the women of -British origin. The average difference in civilised -races in the stature of men and women at present -is about four inches, but twice this difference is -very usually found to exist between the male and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a></span> -female skeletons of the Polished Stone Period in -the long barrows. The difference is even more -strikingly shown by a comparison of the male and -female collar-bones; and we are able to reproduce -from them in picture the Neolithic woman of the -Ivernian race, with narrow chest and drooping -shoulders, utterly unlike the muscular and vigorous -Gaelic women who were true consorts to their men -when they came over to conquer the island of Britain.</p> - -<p>After a lapse of time the long-head began to reassert -itself, and the infusion of its blood into the -veins of the dominant race led to great modification -of its harshness of feature. When iron was -introduced into Britain, whether by peaceable means -or whether by the second Aryan invasion, that of -the Cymri or Britons, we do not know, but when -Cæsar landed in Britain, <span class="smcap">B.C.</span> 55, he found that iron -was in general use.</p> - -<p>The second Aryan invasion alluded to was that of -the true Britons. They also came from the Alps, -where they had lived on platforms constructed on the -lakes. They occupied the whole of Britain proper, -but not Scotland, and made but attempts to effect -a landing in Ireland.</p> - -<p>They were entirely out of sympathy with the -original race and its ideas, and did not assimilate -their religion and adopt their practices as had the -Gaels.</p> - -<p>The distinction between the two branches of the -great Celtic family is mainly linguistic. Where the -British employed the letter <em>p</em>, the Gael used the -hard <em>c</em>, pronounced like <em>k</em>. For instance, <em>Pen</em>, a head,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</a></span> -in British, is <em>Cen</em> in Gaelic; and we can roughly tell -where the population was British by noticing the -place names, such as those beginning with Pen. -When these were Gaels, the same headlands would -begin with Cen.</p> - -<div class="center"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">"By Tre, Pol, and Pen<br /></span> -<span class="i0">You know the names of Cornishmen,"<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>and this at once decides that the inhabitants of the -western peninsula were not Gaels.</p> - -<p>From the lakes of Switzerland the Britons had -brought with them their great aptitude for wattle-work. -They built their houses and halls, not of -stone, but of woven withies. Cæsar says that they -were wont to erect enormous basket-work figures, -fill them with human victims, and burn the whole as -sacrifices to their gods. It is a curious coincidence -that on some of the old Celtic crosses are found -carved imitations of men made of wicker-work. -These represent saints made of the same material -and in the same manner by the same people, after -they had embraced Christianity and abandoned -human sacrifices.<a name="FNanchor_6_6" id="FNanchor_6_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_6_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a></p> - -<p>Let us try to imagine what was the mode of life -of those people who raised their monuments on -Dartmoor. They were pastoral, but they also -certainly had some knowledge of tillage. In certain -lights, hillsides on the moor show indications of -having been cultivated in ridges, and this not with -the plough, but with the spade. We cannot say<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span> -that these belong to the early population, but as -they are found near their settlements it is possible -that they may be traces of original cultivation. -But we know from the remains of grain found -in the habitations and tombs of the same people -in limestone districts that they were acquainted with -cereals, and their grindstones have been found on -Dartmoor in their huts.</p> - -<p>Still, grain was not the main element of their diet; -they lived chiefly on milk and flesh. In the huts -have been found broad vessels that were covered -with round discs of slate, and it is probable that -these were receptacles for milk or butter, but the -milk would mainly be contained in wooden or -leathern vessels. Elsewhere their spindle-whorls -have been found in fair abundance; not so on Dartmoor—as -yet only two have been recovered. This -shows that little spinning was done, and no weights -such as are used by weavers have been found. The -early occupants were in the main clothed in skins.</p> - -<p>Their huts were circular, of stone, with very -frequently a shelter wall, opposed to the prevailing -south-west wind, screening the door, which opened -invariably to the south or south-west. The whole -was roofed over by poles planted on the walls, -brought together in the middle, and thatched over -with rushes or heather. The walls were rarely above -four feet six inches high. They are lined within -with large stones, set up on end, their smooth -surfaces inwards, and the stone walls were backed -up with turf without, making of the huts green -mounds. This gave occasion to the fairy legends<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span> -of the Celts, who represented the earlier population -as living in mounds, which the Irish called <em>sidi</em>, and -the people occupying them the Tuatha da Danann. -As already said, this same name meets us in Damnonii, -the oldest appellation for the people of Devon. They -were a sociable people, clustering together for mutual -protection in <em>pounds</em>.</p> - -<p>These pounds are large circular inclosures, the walls -probably only about four feet high, but above this -was a breastwork of turf or palisading. Outside the -pound were huts, perhaps of guards keeping watch.</p> - -<p>Many of the huts have paddocks connected with -them, as though these latter had been kail gardens, -but some of these paddocks are large enough to -have been tilled for corn. Their plough, if they used -one, was no more than a crooked beam, drawn by -oxen. It is possible that the numerous sharp flakes -of flint that are found were employed fastened into -a sort of harrow, as teeth. Their cooking was done -either in pots sunk in the soil, or in holes lined -with stones.</p> - -<p>Rounded pebbles, water-worn, were amassed, and -baked hot in the fire, then rolled to the "cooking-hole," -in which was the meat, and layers of hot -stones and meat alternated, till the hollow receptacle -was full, and the whole was then covered with sods -till the flesh was cooked.</p> - -<p>The following account of the manner in which the -Fiana, the Irish militia, did their cooking in pre-Christian -times will illustrate this custom:—</p> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>"When they had success in hunting, it was their custom -in the forenoon to send their huntsman, with what they<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span> -had killed, to a proper place, where there was plenty of -wood and water; there they kindled great fires, into which, -their way was, to throw a number of stones, where they -continued till they were red hot; then they applied themselves -to dig two great pits in the earth, into one of which, -upon the bottom, they were wont to lay some of these hot -stones as a pavement, upon them they would place the -raw flesh, bound up hard in green sedge or bulrushes; -over these bundles was fixed another layer of hot stones, -then a quantity of flesh, and this method was observed till -the pit was full. In this manner their flesh was sodden or -stewed till it was fit to eat, and then they uncovered it; -and, when the hole was emptied, they began their meal."<a name="FNanchor_7_7" id="FNanchor_7_7"></a><a href="#Footnote_7_7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a></p></div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 461px;"> -<img src="images/p045.jpg" width="461" height="700" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p>FLINT SCRAPERS. -(Actual size.)</p></div> -</div> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span></p> -<p>Some of the huts are very large, and in these no -traces of fires and no cooking-holes have been found. -Adjoining them, however, are smaller huts that are so -full of charcoal and peat ash and fragments of pottery -that no doubt can be entertained that these were the -kitchens, and the large huts were summer habitations.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> -<img src="images/p046.jpg" width="700" height="476" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p>COOKING-POT.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Occasionally a small hut has been found with a -large hole in the centre crammed with ashes and -round stones, the hole out of all proportion to the -size of the hut if considered as a habitation. No -reasonable doubt can be entertained that these were -bath huts. The Lapps still employ the sweating-houses. -They pour water over hot stones, and the -steam makes them perspire profusely, whereupon -they shampoo themselves or rub each other down -with birch twigs.</p> - -<p>Indeed, men wearing skin dresses are obliged to go -through some such a process to keep their pores in -healthy action.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span></p> - -<p>It is very probable that the long tracklines that -extend over hill and vale on Dartmoor indicate tribal -boundaries, limits beyond which the cattle of one -clan might not feed. Some of these lines, certainly -of the age of the Neolithic men of the hut circles, -may be traced for miles. There is one that starts -apparently from the Plym at Trowlesworthy Warren, -where are clusters of huts and inclosures. It follows -the contour of the hills to Pen Beacon, where it -curves around a collection of huts and strikes for -the source of the Yealm by two pounds containing -huts. That it went further is probable, but recent -inclosures have led to its destruction. We cannot be -sure of the age of these tracklines unless associated -with habitations, as some very similar have been -erected in recent times as reeves delimiting mining -rights.</p> - -<p>That the occupants of the moor at this remote -period loved to play at games is shown by the -numbers of little round pebbles, carefully selected, -some for their bright colours, that have been found -on the floors of their huts. That they used divination -by the crystal is shown by clear quartz prisms -having been discovered tolerably frequently. These -are still employed among the Australian natives for -seeing spirits and reading the future.</p> - -<p>That these early people were monogamists is probable -from the small size of their huts; they really -could not have accommodated more than one wife -and her little family.</p> - -<p>That they were a gentle, peaceable people is also -apparent from the rarity of weapons of war. Plenty of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span> -flint scrapers are found for cleaning the hides, plenty -of rubber-stones for smoothing seams, plenty of small -knives for cutting up meat, but hardly a spear-head, -and arrow-heads are comparatively scarce. Their -most formidable camp is at Whit Tor, the soil of -which is littered with flint chips. It did not, on -exploration, yield a single arrow-head. The pounds -were inclosed to protect the sheep and young cattle -against wolves, not to save the scalps of their owners -from the tomahawks of their fellow-men.</p> - -<p>With regard to the numbers of people who lived -on Dartmoor in prehistoric times, it is simply -amazing to reflect upon. Tens of thousands of -their habitations have been destroyed; their largest -and most populous settlements, where are now the -"ancient tenements," have been obliterated, yet tens -of thousands remain. At Post Bridge, within a -radius of half a mile, are fifteen pounds. If we -give an average of twenty huts to a pound, and -allow for habitations scattered about, not inclosed -in a pound, and give six persons to a hut, we have -at once a population, within a mile, of 2,000 persons.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 335px;"> -<img src="images/p049.jpg" width="335" height="700" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p>FLINT SCRAPERS.</p> - -<p>(Actual size.)</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Take Whit Tor Camp. To man the wall it would -require 500 men. Allow to each man five noncombatants; -that gives a population of 2,500. -There are pounds and clusters of hut circles in -and about Whit Tor that still exist, and would have -contained that population. Take the Erme valley, -high up where difficult of access; the number of huts -there crowded on the hill slopes is incredible. On -the height is a cairn, surrounded by a ring of stones, -from which leads a line of upright blocks for a -distance of 10,840 feet. Allow two feet apart for -the stones, that gives 5,420 stones. If, as is probable, -each stone was set up by a male member of a tribe, -in honour of his chief who was interred in the cairn, -we are given by this calculation a population of over<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span> -21,000, allowing three children and a female to each -male.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> -<img src="images/p050.jpg" width="700" height="463" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p>FRAGMENT OF COOKING-POT.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>But numerous though these occupants of the moor -must have been, they must have been wretchedly -poor. The vast majority of their graves yield -nothing but a handful of burnt ash, not a potsherd, -not a flint-chip, and the grave of a chief -only a little blade of bronze as small as a modern -silver pocket fruit-knife.</p> - -<p>That they were a peaceable people I have no -manner of doubt, for there are absolutely no fortified -hilltops on the moor, which there assuredly -would be were the denizens of that upland region -in strife one with another. What camps there are -may be found on the fringe, Whit Tor, Dewerstone, -Hembury, Holne, Cranbrook, Halstock, as against<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span> -invaders. That they were a happy people I cannot -doubt. They were uncivilised: and the Tree -of Knowledge, under high culture, bears bitter -fruit for the many and drips with tears, but it -bears nuts—only for the few.</p> - -<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_5_5" id="Footnote_5_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_5_5"><span class="label">[5]</span></a> "Hardly had we descended the narrow path, when we saw before -us several huge stones, like enormous boulders, placed endways perpendicularly, -on the soil, while some of them yet upheld similar masses, -laid transversely over their summit. They were arranged in a curve -once forming part, it would appear, of a large circle, and many other like -fragments lay rolled on the ground at a moderate distance; the number -of those still upright was, to speak by memory, eight or nine. Two, -at about ten or twelve feet apart one from the other, and resembling -huge gateposts, yet bore their horizontal lintel, a long block laid -across them; a few were deprived of their upper traverse, the rest -supported each its headpiece in defiance of time and the more destructive -efforts of man. So nicely balanced did one of these cross-bars -appear, that in hope it might prove a rocking-stone, I guided my -camel right under it, and then, stretching up my riding-stick at arm's -length, could just manage to touch and push it; but it did not stir. -Meanwhile the respective heights of camel, rider, and stick, taken -together, would place the stone in question full fifteen feet from the -ground. These blocks seem, by their quality, to have been hewed -from the neighbouring limestone cliffs and roughly shaped, but present -no further trace of art, no groove or cavity of sacrificial import, much -less anything intended for figure or ornament. The people of the -country attribute their erection to the Dārim, and by his own hands -too, seeing that he was a giant. Pointing towards Rass, our companions -affirmed that a second and similar stone circle, also of gigantic -dimensions, existed there; and, lastly, they mentioned a third towards -the south-west, that is, in the direction of Henakeeyah."—<span class="smcap">Palgrave</span>, -<cite>Narrative of a Year's Journey through Central Arabia</cite>, 1865, vol. i -p. 251.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_6_6" id="Footnote_6_6"></a><a href="#FNanchor_6_6"><span class="label">[6]</span></a> <cite>Archæologia</cite>, vol. 1. Pl. 2 (1887).</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_7_7" id="Footnote_7_7"></a><a href="#FNanchor_7_7"><span class="label">[7]</span></a> <span class="smcap">Keeting</span> <cite>History of Ireland</cite> (ed. O'Connor, Dublin, 1841), i. -P. 293.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span></p></div></div> -<div class="chapter"></div> -<hr class="chap" /> - - - - -<h2>CHAPTER IV.<br /> - -THE ANTIQUITIES</h2> - -<div class="hangindent"> - -<p>Innumerable relics on Dartmoor—Small in size—Great destruction -of them that has taken place—Lake-head Hill thus devastated—Classification -of the remains—1. The dolmen, an ossuary—2. The -kistvaen—Great numbers, all rifled—3. The stone circle—possibly -a crematorium—4. The stone row—Astonishing numbers still existing—5. -The menhir—In Christian times becomes a cross—Story -of S. Cainnech—Dartmoor crosses—Altar tombs—6. Hut -circles—All belong to one period—7. The tracklines—8. The -pounds—9. The cairns—10. The camps—11. Rude stone bridges, -comparatively modern.</p></div> - - -<p class="drop-capw"><span class="smcap">As</span> already intimated, the antiquities found on -Dartmoor belong almost exclusively to the -Prehistoric Period. The few exceptions are the -crosses and the blowing-houses. These shall be -spoken of in other chapters. In this we will confine -ourselves to a general review of the relics left -to show how that the moor was occupied by a large -population in the early Bronze Period.</p> - -<p>Now, although these relics are very numerous, -they are none of them megalithic, that is to say, -very huge. And this for two reasons. In the -first place it is uncertain whether the people occupying -the moor ever did erect any huge stones, -like the Stonehenge monsters, or the enormous -dolmens of Brittany, and above all of the sandstone -districts of the Loire.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</a></span></p> - -<p>In the second place, in the fifteenth and first -half of the sixteenth centuries the great bulk of -the churches round Dartmoor were rebuilt, and in -the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries the manor -houses, bartons, and farms were also reconstructed, -and then for the first time since the sixth century -was granite employed in ecclesiastical and domestic -architecture. The builders delighted in selecting -huge stones. They employed monoliths for their -pillars; each door and window had a single stone -on each side as a jamb, and a single stone as a -base; two stones above were used for the arch of -every door and window. The amount of granite -of a large size carried away from the moor is -really prodigious, and no large monument was -likely to have been spared.</p> - -<p>Then came the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, -when granite was in demand for gateposts, -and every standing stone serviceable was ruthlessly -carried away. Almost every circle of upright stones -has lost some of its finest blocks in this way, and all -that is left to show where they were is the hole cut -in the "calm" from which they were extracted, and -the <em>spalls</em> or chips made by the quarrymen as they -knocked the block into shape. At Sherberton was -a fine circle: the three largest stones have been employed -a few yards off as gateposts, and two others -have been cast down.</p> - -<p>Next came the newtake-wall builders. The -ravage they have wrought is incalculable. In 1848 -S. Rowe published his <cite>Perambulation of Dartmoor</cite>, -and gave an illustration of double stone rows that<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span> -ran from the Longstone, near Caistor Rock, for half -a mile to the Teign. In 1851 I planned them. A few -years ago a farmer built a newtake wall, and used -the rows as his quarry; nothing now is left of them -but a few insignificant stones he did not consider -worth his while to remove. The stones are in the -wall, and can be recognised, and the socket-holes can -all be traced, with a spade.</p> - -<p>There was a row or set of rows of stones on a -common near Leusden. In 1898 the road-menders -destroyed it and employed the stones for the repair -of the Ashburton highway.</p> - -<p>Now it is quite possible that the old rude stone -monument builders did not erect really mighty structures -on Dartmoor, but it is still more likely that all -such as were of any size have been carried away. -Lake-head Hill, near Post Bridge, must at one time -have been a veritable necropolis. The farmer at -Bellever was given his holding on a rent that was -to be mainly paid by inclosing new-takes, and repairing -old walls. For six years he was employed -in clearing Lake-head Hill of all the stones he could -find. Thousands of loads were removed, and it is -only by a lucky chance that one or two kistvaens -have escaped. Three pounds with their huts, probably -scores of kistvaens, and certainly several stone -rows, have been obliterated by this man. In 1851 -I drew the finest moor kistvaen at Merrivale Bridge. -The covering stone measured 9 feet 3 inches by -4 feet 9 inches. In 1891 a man at Merrivale Bridge -wanting a gatepost, cut one out of the capstone and -left only two scraps <i lang="la">in situ</i>.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</a></span></p> - -<p>Considering the ruthless manner in which these -monuments of a hoar antiquity have been carried -away or destroyed, it is a marvel that any remain; -but then, this devastation explains why those allowed -to remain are such only as were considered too insignificant -to offer inducement to the plunderer. -The late Mr. Bennett, of Archerton, when inclosing -and planting, utilised a fine pound for a clump of -beech. The old inclosing ring was used up to make -a wall for the protection of the young trees, and -these latter, in growing, threw all the huts that had -not been despoiled out of shape and into inextricable -confusion.</p> - -<p>Let us now take in their order such monuments -as remain, and I will say a few words about each -kind.</p> - -<p>1. Of the characteristic <em>dolmen</em>, which we in -England perhaps improperly call <em>cromlech</em>, we have -but a single good example, that at Drewsteignton. -The dolmen was the family mausoleum. It is composed -of several large slabs set upright in box-form, -and covered with one or more large stones, flat on -the under side. These were probably all originally -covered with earth, but in course of time the earth -has been washed or trodden away. In some cases -the dolmen becomes the <i lang="fr">allée couverte</i>, a long chamber -or hall constructed of uprights and coverers. -The most magnificent example is that at Saumur, -on the Loire, which is over 62 feet long and 13 feet -wide, and high enough for a tall man to walk about -in it with ease.</p> - -<p>In these the dead were interred, not burnt, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</a></span> -their bones seem to have been taken out on -anniversaries, scraped, and then replaced; and remoter -ancestors were huddled into the background -to make room for newcomers.</p> - -<p>In time the fashion for carnal interment gave way -to one for cremation.</p> - -<p>Now of the large dolmen or cromlech we have -only the fine Drewsteignton example, and that -deserves a visit. Formerly it was but one of a -number of monuments, lines and circles of upright -stones. All these have been destroyed in this -century.</p> - -<p>But although this is the sole remaining example, -we know by place names that anciently there were -many more. These monuments have everywhere a -local designation. In France they are <i lang="fr">pierres levées</i> -or <i lang="fr">cabannes des fées</i>. In Devon they were shelf-stones, -and wherever we meet with a farm called -Shilston, there we may confidently assert that a -dolmen formerly existed. With a little search the -portions of it may occasionally be recognised in -pigsties, or worked into the structure of the house.</p> - -<p>The parish of Bradstone derives its name from -the broad coverer of a cromlech, which is now employed -as a stile. The supporters have disappeared, -used probably for the church. There is a shilstone -in Bridestowe, and another in Modbury. In dolmens -it is usual to have a hole in the end stone, and even -sometimes closed with a stone plug, or else a small -stone is employed that could easily be removed, so -as to enable those who desired it to enter and put -therein food for the consumption of the dead, or to -remove the remains for the annual scraping, or again -for the introduction of a fresh tenant.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> -<img src="images/p056.jpg" width="700" height="389" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p>THE PEDIGREE OF A TOMB</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</a></span></p> - -<p>2. When carnal interment gave way to incineration, -at once the need for large mausoleums ceased, -and mourners saved themselves the labour of erecting -huge cromlechs, and contented themselves instead -with the more modest <em>kistvaen</em>, or stone chest. This -is constructed in precisely the same manner as the -dolmen, but is much smaller. A beautiful diminutive -example, from Peter Tavy Common, has been -transported to the Plymouth Municipal Museum. It -measures 21 inches long, 13 inches wide, and 14 -inches deep. On Dartmoor there are many hundreds -of these kistvaens, of various sizes, but most have -been rifled by treasure-seekers; indeed, all but such -as were covered with earth and so escaped observation -have been plundered.</p> - -<p>The kistvaens were always buried under cairns, -and almost invariably a circle of stones surrounded -the cairn, marking its bounds.</p> - -<p>The finest kistvaens are—one at Merrivale Bridge, -one adjoining a pound near Post Bridge, one on -Lake-head Hill, one near Drizzlecombe, one on -Hound Tor, and two on the slope of Bellever. One -is near the Powder Mills. There are several, also, -about the Plym.</p> - -<p>3. The <em>stone circle</em> is called by the French a -cromlech. The name means curved stone. The -circle, of which Stonehenge is the noblest known -example in Europe, consists of a number of stones -set up at intervals in a ring. The purport is purely -conjectural. Undoubtedly interments have been made<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</a></span> -within them; but none, so far, have been found in -those on Dartmoor. In the great circle on Penmaen-mawr -there were burials at the foot of several of the -monoliths, and, indeed, one of these served as the -back-stone of a kistvaen.</p> - -<p>Among semi-barbarous tribes it is customary that -the tribe should have its place of assembly and consultation, -and this is marked round by either stones -or posts set up in the ground. Among some of the -great clan circles, if one of the constituent tribes fails -to send its representative, the stone set up where he -would sit is thrown down.</p> - -<p>The areas within the circles on Dartmoor, so far -as they have been examined, show that great fires -have been lighted in them; the floors are thickly -bedded in charcoal. It may be that they were the -crematoria of the tribe, and certainly numerous -cairns and kistvaens are to be found around them; -or it may be that great fires were lighted in them -when the tribe met for its parliament, or its games -and war-dances. It has been noticed that usually -these circles of upright stones are placed on the neck -of land between two rivers.</p> - -<p>Some have speculated that they were intended for -astronomical observation, and for determining the -solstices; but such fancies may be dismissed till we -have evidence of their being erected and employed -for such a purpose by some existing savage race.</p> - -<p>The Samoyeds were wont to make circles of stones -of rude blocks set up, and these are still to be seen -in the districts they inhabit; and although these -people are nominally Christians, yet they are secretly<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</a></span> -addicted to their old paganism. Mr. Jackson, in his -<cite>Great Frozen Land</cite> (London, 1895), says:—</p> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>"The rings of stones which I frequently met with in -Waigatz are the sites of their midnight services, and are -made, of course, by the Samoyeds. They are called -yon-pa-ha-pai. It is possible that within these circles -the human sacrifices with which Samoyeds used to propitiate -Chaddi were offered up; and, although these are -things of the past now, it is only a few years ago that -a Samoyed, living in Novaia Zemlia, sacrificed a young -girl" (p. 89).</p></div> - -<p>A tradition or fancy relative to more than one -of these circles is that the stones represent maidens -who insisted on dancing on a Sunday, and were, for -their profanity, turned into stone when the church -bells rang for divine service. It is further said that -on May Day or Midsummer Day they dance in a -ring.</p> - -<p>There are several of these circles on the moor. -The finest are those of Scaur Hill, near Chagford, -of the Grey Wethers—two side by side, but most -of the stones of one are fallen—the circle on -Langstone Moor above Peter Tavy, Trowlesworthy, -Sherberton, and Fernworthy. The diameters vary -from thirty-six feet to three hundred and sixty. -One that must have been very fine was near -Huccaby, but most of the stones constituting it -have been removed for the construction of a wall -hard by.</p> - -<p>The number of stones employed varies according -to the area inclosed.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</a></span></p> - -<p>4. The <em>stone row</em> is almost invariably associated -with cairns and kistvaens, and clearly had some -relation to funeral rites. The stone settings are -often single, sometimes double, or are as many as -eight. They do not always run parallel; they start -from a cairn, and end with a blocking-stone set across -the line. In Scotland they are confined to Caithness. -The finest known are at Carnac, in Brittany. It is -probable that just as a Bedouin now erects a stone -near a fakir's tomb as a token of respect, so each -of these rude blocks was set up by a member of a -tribe, or by a household, in honour of the chief buried -in the cairn at the head of the row.</p> - -<p>It is remarkable how greatly the set stones vary in -size. Some are quite insignificant, and could be -planted by a boy, while others require the united -efforts of three, four, or even many men, with modern -appliances of three legs and block, to lift and place -them in position. This seems to show that the rows -are not the result of concerted design, but of individual -execution as the ability of the man or -family permitted to set up a stone large or small. -Usually the largest stones are planted near the cairn, -and they dwindle to the blocking-stone, which is of -respectable size.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> -<img src="images/p060.jpg" width="700" height="431" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p>STONE-ROWS, DRIZZLECOMBE</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</a></span></p> - -<p>There is no district known so rich in stone rows as -Dartmoor. As many as fifty have been observed. The -finest are those of Drizzlecombe, where there are -three double rows, not parallel; Down Tor, a single -line; Merrivale Bridge, two parallel double rows, but -the stones constituting them small; Stall Moor, a -single line that looks like a procession of cricketers -in flannels stalking over the moor; Challacombe; at -Glazebrook are thirteen rows; also Staldon Moor. -Some of these rows which are small are nevertheless -instructive. On the north slope of Cosdon is a cairn -that originally contained three kistvaens, one of which -is perfect, one exists in part, and evidence of the -existence of the third was found on exploration. -From this cairn start three rows of stones, one for -each kistvaen. A remarkably perfect set of stone -rows is on Watern Hill, behind the Warren Inn, on -the road from Post Bridge to Moreton. It is actually -visible from the road, but as the stones are small -it does not attract attention. It starts from a cairn -and a tall upright stone set at right angles to the -rows, which are brought to a termination by blocking-stones. -Another perfect row is at Assacombe, starting -from a cairn with two or three big upright stones, -and running down a rather steep hill to a blocking-stone -which remains intact.</p> - -<p>The longest of all the rows is that on Staldon, -which springs from a circle of 59 feet 9 inches in -diameter, inclosing the remains of a cairn, runs with -a single line for two miles and a quarter, and crosses -the Erme river. Had a straight line been followed, -an obstruction in the precipitous bank of the river -would have been encountered, to avoid which the -builders of this great monument took a sweep eastward, -where the bank was more sloping. In the -Cosdon lines of stones already referred to, the rows -waver so as to avoid a platform of rock in which the -constructors were unable to plant their stones.</p> - -<p>At Drizzlecombe there is a cairn with which is<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</a></span> -connected a row 260 feet long, with an upright stone -17 feet 9 inches high at the end of the row.</p> - -<p>All sorts of random guesses have been made -about these rows. Some have made them out to be -sacred <em>cursi</em>, where races were run, but then some -lines are single, some are eightfold. Others have -supposed that these were the supporting stones to -cattle sheds, but these stones are often not more than -2 feet 6 inches high, and the rows often run for over -600 feet.</p> - -<p>We must, as already said, look to present usage -for their interpretation, and that afforded by the -practice of the Khassias of the Brahmapootra, and -by the Bedouin, seems the simplest—stones set up -as memorials or tributes of respect to the dead man -who is buried at the head of the row.</p> - -<p>There would seem to have been no feeling attached -to the direction in which these lines run.</p> - -<p>One singular feature is that in several cases a -second row starts off from a small cairn in or close -to the main row, and runs away in quite a different -direction.<a name="FNanchor_8_8" id="FNanchor_8_8"></a><a href="#Footnote_8_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a></p> - -<p>5. The <em>menhir</em>, or tall stone, is a rude, unwrought -obelisk. In some cases it is nothing other -than the starting or the blocking stone of a row -which has been destroyed. This is the case with -that at Merrivale Bridge. But such is not always -the case. There were no rows in connection with -the menhirs on Devil Tor and the Whitmoor -Stone.</p> - -<p>That the upright block is a memorial to the dead<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</a></span> -can hardly be doubted; it was continued to be -erected, with an inscription on it, in Romano-British -times, and its modern representative is in every -churchyard.</p> - -<p>The menhirs, locally termed longstones, or langstones, -must at one time have been numerous. -There was a langstone near Sourton, another by -Tavistock, one at Sheeps Tor, others by Modbury; -these stones have disappeared and have left but -their names to tell where they once stood. One -on Peter Tavy Common gave its title to the moor -which the Ordnance surveyors have rendered Launceston -Moor. The stone is at one end of a row, and -served as a waymark over the down. It had fallen, -but is re-erected.</p> - -<p>But there are still a good many remaining. The -tallest is one already referred to at Drizzlecombe. -Bairdown Man (<em>maen</em> = a stone) is by Devil Tor in -a singularly desolate spot. We have none comparable -to the Devil's Arrows at Boroughbridge in -Yorkshire—but the best have been carried away -to serve as monolithic church pillars.</p> - -<p>The Chinese hold that the spirits of the dead -inhabit the memorials set up in their honour; and -the carved monoliths in Abyssinia, erected by the -race when it passed from Arabia to Africa, have -carved in their faces little doors, for the ingress and -egress of the spirits. Holed menhirs are found in -many places. I know one in France, La Pierre -Fiche, near Pouancé (Maine-et-Loire), where such a -little door or window, intended for the popping out -and in of the spirit, has been utilised to hold an<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</a></span> -image of the Virgin, and has been barred to prevent -the statue making off or being made off with.</p> - -<p>In Irish post-Christian records there is frequent -allusion to the early saints carrying about their <em>lechs</em> -(flat stones) with them, to be set up over them when -dead, and this explains the fantastic stories afterwards -told of saints as of having crossed from -Ireland to Wales, or Cornwall, or Brittany floating -on stones. In the original record it was related that -the saint came over with his <em>lech</em>, and a later redactor -of the story converted this into coming <em>on</em> it, as a -raft. The <em>lech</em> was cut into a cross when the Celts -became Christians, or crosses were inscribed on them. -Some of the most fantastic of the saints, when -travelling over the country, would not sit down to -dinner till they had visited and prayed at all the -crosses set up over tombs anywhere near.</p> - -<p>A pretty story is told of S. Cainnech. Bishop -Aed's sister had been carried off by Colman -MacDermot, King of the Hy Niall, and he refused -to surrender her. Aed went to Cainnech with his -grievance, and Cainnech at once resolved on intervention. -Colman had retired to an island in the -Ross Lake, or Marsh, and shrewdly suspecting that -the saint would administer a lecture, he removed the -boats to the island fort or crannoge. However, Cainnech -was not to be deterred, and managed to wade -or swim across. Subdued by his pertinacity, the -king surrendered the girl.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> -<img src="images/p064.jpg" width="700" height="432" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p>MENHIR, CROSS AND HEADSTONE</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</a></span></p> - -<p>Many years after, one winter day, Cainnech was -traversing a moor, when he noticed a rude stone -cross, on the head and arms of which the snow lay -in a crust. He halted to inquire whose cross that -was, and learned that it had been erected on the spot -where King Colman had been assassinated some -years previously. Cainnech at once went to the <em>lech</em>, -leaned his brow against it, and as he recalled the -interviews he had had with the king, and thought -on his good as well as his bad qualities, his outbursts -of violence, and his accesses of compunction, the old -man's tears began to flow, and his disciples noticed -the snow melting and dripping from the arms of the -cross, thawed by the tears of the venerable abbot.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 482px;"> -<img src="images/p065.jpg" width="482" height="700" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p><span class="smcap">Cross, Whitchurch Down.</span></p></div> -</div> - -<p>Now see how many rugged crosses there are on<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</a></span> -Dartmoor! Some certainly are waymarks, others -as surely indicate graves. Would that we knew the -tales connected with them!</p> - -<p>Then go into any churchyard and observe the -tombstones. We are children of the men who set -up menhirs, and we do the same thing to this day, -though the stones we erect are mean and small compared -with the great standing monoliths they set up -to their dead.</p> - -<p>In many of the churches around the moor are -monuments that derive from the cromlech and kistvaens -as certainly as does the modern tombstone -from the menhir. The graveyard of Sourton was -rich in these great slabs standing on four supporters. -A late rector who "restored" Sourton church, and -supposed he did God service by so doing, threw all -these down and employed the slabs as pavement to -the church paths; he placed the supporters outside -in the village for anyone to carry off as he listed.</p> - -<p>The finest menhirs on Dartmoor are—one at -Drizzlecombe, the Langstone near Caistor Rock, -the Whitmoor Stone, the Bairdown Man, the Langstone -at Merrivale, and that on Langstone Moor, -Peter Tavy. There must have been numbers more, -for their former presence is testified to by many -place names. They have been carried off, and it -is matter of wonder that any remain.</p> - -<p>6. <em>Hut circles.</em> The cairn and kistvaen were -the places of burial of the dead, but the hut circles -were the habitations of the living. So many of them -have been dug out during the last six years, that we -may safely draw conclusions as to the period to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</a></span> -which they belong. They were occupied by the -Neolithic population that at one time thickly covered -Dartmoor.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 643px;"> -<img src="images/p067.jpg" width="643" height="700" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p>In the <cite>Archæologia</cite> of 1875 is an account of the -exploration of a set of hut circles near Bintley, -Northumberland, and this revealed successive occupation -by Celts (?) of the Bronze Age; then Romano-British, -who left fragments of Samian ware and a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</a></span> -bronze horse-buckle; lastly by Saxons, who left -behind an iron sword.</p> - -<p>Not a trace of continuous occupation has been -found in any circle explored on Dartmoor. All -belong to the early Bronze Period, when flint was -the principal material of which tools and weapons -were fabricated.</p> - -<p>Some account of these huts has been already -given. They usually have a raised platform on the -side that is towards the hill, and the circle bulges -at this point to give additional space on this platform. -It was probably used as a bed by night, and -was sat upon by day. In one hut at Grimspound -the platform was divided into two compartments. -In some instances, small upright stones planted in -the floor show that the platform was made of logs -and brushwood, held in place by these projections. -The stone platforms on the other hand were paved.</p> - -<p>The doorways into the huts are composed of single -upright stones as jambs, with a threshold and a -lintel, this latter always fallen, and often found -wedged between the uprights. The floor within is -paved near the door, but there only; the rest consists -of hard beaten soil. Occasionally a shelter wall -protects the entrance from the prevailing wind. The -huts must have been entered on all-fours; the doorways -are never higher than three feet six inches, -usually less. The huts have hearthstones much -burnt or broken, but occasionally hollows lined with -stones full of ashes. Cooking-holes are sunk in the -floor near the hearths, and piles of cooking stones -are found at hand much cracked by fire. Sometimes<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</a></span> -a flat stone is found bedded in the soil near the centre -to support a pole that sustained the roof. In some -instances a hole has been discovered sunk in the -floor near the middle, with the charred remains of -the bottom end of the post in it.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 382px;"> -<img src="images/p069.jpg" width="382" height="700" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p>HUT CIRCLE, GRIMSPOUND.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</a></span></p> - -<p>In the cooking-holes have been found cooking-pots -made by hand of the coarsest clay, usually round at -the bottom; where not round, with transverse ridges -of thick clay forming a cross to strengthen the -bottom. These pots were too fragile to stand the -action of fire on a hearth, and served by having -meat and red-hot stones placed in them. Consequently -they do not show signs of exposure to -strong fire externally, and are black with animal -matter within, which may be extracted by means -of a blowpipe.</p> - -<p>One found at Legis Tor had been cracked and -was mended with china-clay. It had a cooking-stone -in it. There would seem to have been in use as well -shallower vessels that were covered with round slate -discs. None of these have been recovered whole. -Possibly they were employed to hold curd or butter.</p> - -<p>Occasionally round stones, flat on one side and -convex on the other, have been disinterred in the -huts. They served to protect the apex of the roof, -where the poles were drawn together, from the action -of the rain, which would rot them, as well as to -prevent the rain from entering at this point. An -example of a stone of the same character employed -for this very purpose may be seen in actual use -on a thatched circular pounding-house on Berry -Down, near Throwleigh.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</a></span></p> - -<p>Not a single quern has been found in a hut, and -this indicates that the occupants neither grew nor -ground corn extensively.<a name="FNanchor_9_9" id="FNanchor_9_9"></a><a href="#Footnote_9_9" class="fnanchor">[9]</a> They lived mainly on -milk and meat. Numerous rubber-stones have been -unearthed that served for smoothing the seams of -skin clothing sewn together; and plenty of flint -scrapers that turn up show that the skins employed -for garments were previously carefully scraped and -cleaned. Esquimaux women chew the leather to get -it flexible, and then rub it with similar smoothers -of stone.</p> - -<p>7. <em>Tracklines</em> in abundance are everywhere found, -made of stones, but without close investigation it is -not possible to determine to what period they belong.</p> - -<p>8. Paved roads exist; the main road across the -moor has been traced from Wray Barton in Moreton -Hampstead, by Berry Pound to Merripit, by Post -Bridge, and thence on to Mis Tor. From somewhere -near the Powder Mills a branch struck off in -the direction of Princetown, aiming probably for -Tamerton, but it has been obliterated by the prison -inclosures. A raised paved road leaves the camp -above Okehampton Station and takes a direction due -south, but cannot be traced far. That these ways -were not Roman is tolerably certain. The ancient -Britons drove chariots with wheels, and where -wheeled conveyances were in use, there roads are -postulated.</p> - -<p>9. The <em>cairns</em> that are abundant, and were of -considerable size, have nearly all been ransacked by -treasure-seekers. Only such as were too small to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</a></span> -attract attention have escaped. They are mounds of -earth and stone over a pit sunk in the original soil, or -over a kistvaen. Usually they contain a handful of -ashes only; they rarely yield more. One, however, on -Hamildon surrendered a bronze knife with amber -handle and rivets of gold. Others have given up -small knives of bronze, and urns of the characteristic -shape and ornamentation of the Bronze Age. -In one, on Fernworthy Common, was found a thin -blade of copper, along with a flint knife, a large -button of horn, and a well-ornamented urn.</p> - -<p>A cairn surrounded by a circle of stones, and -containing a kistvaen, near Princetown, is called -"The Crock of Gold," a name that may be due -to a vessel of the precious metal having been found -in it.</p> - -<p>One thing is obvious, the enormous labour of -exploring the larger cairns would not have been -undertaken unless previous ransackings had yielded -valuable results. Some of the cairns must have -been huge, and have taken many men several days -in clearing out their interiors. About these cairns -I shall say a good deal in a chapter apart.</p> - -<p>10. Of <em>camps</em> there are two kinds, those constructed -of stone and those of earth. I reserve what I have -to say about these to a separate chapter.</p> - -<p>11. The old stone <em>bridges</em>, composed of rude slabs -cast across an opening to a pier, also rudely constructed, -have been attributed to "the Druids," of -course. There is nothing to indicate for these a -great antiquity. They belong to the period of pack-horses, -and were doubtless often repaired. Those<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</a></span> -at Dartmeet, and Post Bridge, and Two Bridges—this -last has disappeared—were in the line of -the pack-horse track, and <em>not</em> in that of the paved -way across the moor.</p> - -<p>The rude bridge at Okery in like manner is in the -pack-horse line of way, which is indicated between -Princetown and Merrivale Bridge by rude posts of -granite set up at intervals.</p> - -<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_8_8" id="Footnote_8_8"></a><a href="#FNanchor_8_8"><span class="label">[8]</span></a> Merrivale Bridge, Har Tor, and Longstone, near Caistor Rock.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_9_9" id="Footnote_9_9"></a><a href="#FNanchor_9_9"><span class="label">[9]</span></a> Querns have been found, but none in prehistoric habitations.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</a></span></p></div></div> -<div class="chapter"></div> -<hr class="chap" /> - - - - -<h2>CHAPTER V.<br /> - -THE FREAKS</h2> - -<div class="hangindent"> - -<p>Lucubrations of antiquaries in past times—How their imagination led -them astray—Rock idols—Logan stones—Who originated the idea -that they were oracular—Rock basins—Tolmens—The difference -between the modern system of archæological research and that which -it has supplanted.</p></div> - - -<p class="drop-capw"><span class="smcap">It</span> would be amusing were it not melancholy to -read the lucubrations of antiquaries of the early -part of the nineteenth century on the relics of the -past found in such abundance on the moor. Their -imagination played a large part in their researches, -and references to curious customs in the Bible or -in classic writings were drawn in to explain these -relics. The antiquaries lacked the faculty of observing -accurately, and instead of labouring to accumulate -facts, and recording them with precision, -employed them as pegs on which to hang their -theories, and they whittled at what they did observe, -so as to fit what they saw to elucidate these theories.</p> - -<p>In rambling over the moor they discovered rock -idols, logan stones, rock basins, and tolmens, and -entered into long dissertations on their employment -for worship, oracles, lustrations, and ordeals.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 670px;"> -<img src="images/p074.jpg" width="670" height="700" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p>BOWERMAN'S NOSE</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</a></span></p> - -<p>There are, indeed, to be seen curious piles of rock, -but none of these are artificial, and there is not a -particle of evidence that any of them received -idolatrous worship. Bowerman's Nose is the most -remarkable, perhaps. Carrington, the poet of Dartmoor, -thus describes it:—</p> - -<div class="center"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i14">"On the very edge<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Of the vast moorland, startling every eye,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">A shape enormous rises! High it towers<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Above the hill's bold brow, and seen from far,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Assumes the human form; a granite god,—<br /></span> -<span class="i0">To whom, in days long flown, the suppliant knee<br /></span> -<span class="i0">In trembling homage bow'd."<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>It stands up, a core of hard granite, forty feet high, -in five layers above a "clitter," the softer masses -that have fallen off from it. Had it ever been -venerated as an idol, the worshippers would assuredly -have done something towards clearing this clitter -away, so as to give themselves a means of easy -access to their idol, and some turf on which to -kneel in adoration.</p> - -<p>Another remarkable pile is Vixen Tor, presenting -from one point a resemblance to the Sphinx. -Not a single relic of early man is in its immediate -neighbourhood. We can hardly doubt that prehistoric -man was not as big a fool as we suppose -him, and that he was quite able to see that Bowerman's -Nose and Vixen Tor were natural objects as -truly as the tors on the hilltops.</p> - -<p>The logan stones on the moor are numerous, -and these, also, are natural formations. The granite -weathers irregularly; a hard bed alternates with one -that is soft, and the wind and rain eat into the -more crumbling layer and gnaw it away, till the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</a></span> -harder superincumbent mass rests on one or two -points. Either it topples over and becomes one -more block in a clitter, or it remains balanced, and, -if fairly evenly balanced, can be made to rock like -a cradle.</p> - -<p>Here is a specimen of tall twaddle from the hand -of Mrs. Bray or the Rev. E. Atkyns Bray, her -husband:—</p> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>"There must have been a more than ordinary feeling of -awe inspired in the mind of the criminal by ascending -heights covered with a multitude, to whose gaze he was -exposed, as he drew nigh and looked upon these massive -rocks, the seat of divine authority and judgment. How -imposing must have been the sight of the priesthood and -their numerous trains, surrounded by all the outward pomps -and insignia of their office; as he listened to the solemn -hymns of the vates, preparatory to the ceremonial of justice; -or as he stepped within the sacred inclosure, there to -receive condemnation or acquittal, to be referred to the -ordeal of the logan, or the tolmen, according to the will -of the presiding priest! As he slowly advanced and -thought upon these things, often must he have shuddered -and trembled to meet the Druid's eye, when he stood by -'the stone of his power.'"</p></div> - -<p>All this rubbish is based on supposition. There -is not a particle of evidence to support it. Toland -was the first to start the theory that logan stones -were used for ordeal purposes or as oracles. He -says: "The Druids made the people believe that -they alone could move these stones, and by a miracle -only, by which pretended power they condemned or -acquitted the accused, and often brought criminals to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</a></span> -confess what could in no other way be extorted from -them." Here is a positive statement. Toland died -in 1722. Whence did Toland derive this? From -his imagination only. Then Rowe quotes him as his -authority for attributing to the logan stones this -function of delivering oracular judgments. Appeal -was wont to be made to a line in Ossian as a support -for the theory, but since Ossian has been proved to -be a fraud antiquaries are chary of referring to -him.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> -<img src="images/p077.jpg" width="700" height="399" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p>LOGAN ROCK. THE RUGGLESTONE, WIDDECOMBE.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>There are some really fine logan rocks on Dartmoor. -Perhaps the largest is one above the West -Okement, which I remember seeing many years ago, -when a boy, rolling in a strong wind like a boat at -sea. That on Rippon Tor measures 16½ feet in -length, and is about 4½ feet in thickness and nearly -the same in breadth. It still logs, but not so well as -formerly, owing to mischievous interference with it.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</a></span> -There is a large one in the Teign, above Fingle -Bridge, that can also be made to roll with the -application of a little strength.</p> - -<p>The Rugglestone, near Widdecombe-in-the-Moor, -measures 22 feet by 14 feet in one part, and 19 feet -by 17 feet in another, and is 5 feet 6 inches in mean -thickness. Its computed weight is 110 tons, whereas -the celebrated logan in Cornwall weighs 90 tons. -This stone is poised upon two points.</p> - -<p>Roos Tor, which the Ordnance surveyors playfully -render Rolls Tor, possessed two logan stones, but -quarrymen have destroyed one, together with the -fine mass of rock on which it stood. Near it -lay a huge menhir, never removed till these depredators -broke it up. I give an illustration of the -head of the tor with its two logans, taken in 1852; -one alone remains. On Black Tor, near the road -from Princetown to Plymouth, is a small logan, with -a rock basin on the top, and with a projection like -a handle. It can be made to oscillate without -difficulty. A small logan is near the stone rows on -Challacombe in the miners' workings. Its existence -is purely accidental. Another is near a collection -of hut circles on the slope of Combeshead Tor.</p> - -<p>The rock basins are numerous; they are hollow -pans formed on the surface of granite slabs by the -action of wind and water, assisted by particles of -grit set in rotation by the wind. "That this rude -and primitive species of basin formed part of the -apparatus of Druidism there can be little doubt," -says Mr. Rowe, "but the specific purpose for which -they were designed is not clear." Fosbroke un<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</a></span>hesitatingly -pronounces rock basins to be "cavities -<em>cut</em> in the surface of a rock, supposed for reservoirs, -to preserve the rain or dew in its original purity, for -the religious uses of the Druids."</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> -<img src="images/p079.jpg" width="700" height="274" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p>ROOS TOR, WITH ITS LOGANS, PREVIOUS TO DESTRUCTION.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>All this assertion must be put aside. The bowls -are excavated by natural agencies, and there is not -a scrap of evidence to show that they were put to -superstitious or any other use. The largest is on -Caistor Rock, and this has been railed round, as -sheep floundered in and got drowned, or could not -get out again. Mis Tor has a fine basin, called "The -Devil's Frying-pan."</p> - -<p>These basins may be seen in all stages of growth -on the tops of the tors.</p> - -<p>The tolmen is either a holed stone or a rock -supported in such a manner as to preserve it from -falling, and supposed to have been used as an -apparatus of ordeal, by requiring those accused of a -crime to creep through the orifice.</p> - -<p>Holed stones have unquestionably been employed -for the purpose of taking oaths and sealing com<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</a></span>pacts, -the hands being passed through an opening -and clasped. And certainly S. Wilfrid's needle, in -the crypt under Ripon Minster, was made use of -as a test to try whether a maiden accused of incontinency -was guilty or not. There is, however, -no well-defined tolmen on Dartmoor that can be -pronounced to be artificial. A holed stone in the -Teign was pierced by the action of the water, and -a suspended rock at an incline on Staple Tor, called -by Mrs. Bray and Mr. Rowe a tolmen, is a natural -production also. It is, of course, possible that stones -thus poised may have been employed for the purpose, -but we have no evidence that those on Dartmoor -were so used.</p> - -<p>Of rocks supported at one end by a small stone -there are plenty. There is a good one on Yar Tor, -above Dartmeet.</p> - -<p>The old school of antiquaries started with a theory, -and then sought for illustrations to fit into their -theories, and took facts and distorted them to serve -their purpose, or saw proofs where no proofs existed. -The new school accumulates statistics and piles up -facts, and then only endeavours to work out a -plausible theory to account for the facts laboriously -collected and registered. It never starts with a -theory, but applies practices in savage life still in -use to explain the customs of prehistoric men, who -lived on the same cultural level as the savages of -the present day.</p> - -<p>One word of caution must be given relative to the -Druids, who are credited with so much. It is true -that there were Druids in Britain and in Ireland,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</a></span> -but they were the schamans, or medicine-men, of the -earlier Ivernian race, who maintained their repute -among the conquering Celts, and their representatives -at the present day are the white witches who practise -on the credulity of our villagers.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[Pg 82]</a></span></p> -<div class="chapter"></div> -<hr class="chap" /> - - - - -<h2>CHAPTER VI.<br /> - -DEAD MEN'S DUST</h2> - -<div class="hangindent"> - -<p>Cairns on Dartmoor—Why mostly in solitary places and on hilltops—The -theory of wearing mourning—Its real origin—Various modes -of deceiving the dead or discouraging them from returning—The -desire of the ghost to get home—Is cajoled or scared away—How -widows get rid of the ghosts of their first husbands—Disguising -the dead.</p></div> - - -<p class="drop-capw"><span class="smcap">One</span> of the most striking experiences of an -explorer of Dartmoor is the coming upon -great cairns in the most remote and inaccessible -parts of that waste. Not a lone hill surrounded by -bogs is without its great mound of earth or pile of -stones over some dead man. In the howling wilderness -about Cranmere Pool, where are no traces of -human habitation, there lie the dead. On every rise -above the swamps and fathomless morasses of Fox -Tor, there they are scattered thick. Almost always -the dead were conveyed to the tops of hills, or -placed on the brows of elevations far away from the -settlements of the living.</p> - -<p>Why was this?</p> - -<p>Because prehistoric men were in fear of their dead -people.</p> - -<p>I remember, in 1860, riding across the central -desert of Iceland, and coming about midnight, when<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[Pg 83]</a></span> -the summer sun was just dipped below the polar -sea, on a solitary cairn among pools of frozen water -and amidst illimitable tracts of volcanic ash. My -guide told me it was the grave of one Glamr, who -had so haunted the farms in the Vatnsdal that the -people of the valley had combined to dig him up and -transport the corpse almost a day's journey into the -central desert, where they cut off his head, and buried -the body in a sitting posture with his own skull as his -throne, an indignity which the ghost was likely to so -resent as never to venture to show again.</p> - -<p>The heathen Icelander, on the death of a father -in the family, was removed by the anxious heir to -the estate in an ingenious manner. The wall of the -house behind the bed was broken through, and the -corpse drawn out of doors by that way, and then the -opening was hastily repaired. He was then hurried -off to his grave. The heir was so afraid lest the -venerable party should saunter home again and reclaim -his property, that the father was carried forth -in this peculiar manner in order to bewilder him and -make him find a difficulty in returning.</p> - -<p>A strip of black cloth an inch and a half in width -stitched round the sleeve—that is the final, or perhaps -penultimate relic (for it may dwindle further to -a black thread) of the usage of wearing mourning on -the decease of a relative.</p> - -<p>The usage is one that commends itself to us as an -outward and visible sign of the inward sentiment of -bereavement, and not one in ten thousand who adopt -mourning has any idea that it ever possessed a -signification of another sort. And yet the correla<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[Pg 84]</a></span>tion -of general custom—of mourning fashions—leads -us to the inexorable conclusion that in its inception -the practice had quite a different signification -from that now attributed to it, nay more, that it is -solely because its primitive meaning has been absolutely -forgotten, and an entirely novel significance -given to it, that mourning is still employed after a -death.</p> - -<p>Look back through the telescope of anthropology -at our ancestors in their naked savagery after a death, -and we see them daub themselves with soot mingled -with tallow. When the savage assumed clothes and -became a civilised man, he replaced the fat and lampblack -with black cloth, and this black cloth has -descended to us in the nineteenth century as the -customary and intelligible trappings of woe.</p> - -<p>The Chinaman when in a condition of bereavement -assumes white garments, and we may be pretty -certain that his barbarous ancestor, like the Andaman -Islander of the present day, pipe-clayed his -naked body after the decease and funeral of a -relative. In Egypt yellow was the symbol of sorrow -for a death, and that points back to the ancestral nude -Egyptian having smeared himself with yellow ochre.</p> - -<p>Black was not the universal hue of mourning in -Europe. In Castile white obtained on the death of -its princes. Herrera states that the last time white -was thus employed was in 1498 on the death of -Prince John. This use of white indicates chalk or -pipe-clay as the daub affected by the ancestors of -the house of Castile in primeval time as a badge -of bereavement.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[Pg 85]</a></span></p> - -<p>Various explanations have been offered to account -for the variance of colour. White has been supposed -to denote purity—and to this day white gloves and -hatbands and scarves are employed at the funeral -of a young girl.</p> - -<p>Yellow has been supposed to symbolise that death -is the end of human hopes, because falling leaves are -sere; black is taken as the privation of light; and -purple or violet also affected as a blending of joy -with sorrow. Christian moralists have declaimed -against black as heathen, as denoting an aspect of -death devoid of hope, and gradually purple is taking -its place in the trappings of the hearse, if not of the -mourners, and the pall is now very generally violet.</p> - -<p>But these explanations are after-thoughts, and an -attempt to give reason for the divergence of usage -which might satisfy: they are really no explanations -at all. The usage goes back to a period when there -were no such refinements of thought. If violet or -purple has been traditional, it is so merely because -the ancestral Briton stained himself with woad on the -death of a relative.</p> - -<p>The pipe-clay, lampblack, yellow ochre, and woad -of the primeval mourners must be brought into -range with a whole series of other mourning usages, -and then the result is something of an "eye-opener." -It reveals a condition of mind and an aspect of death -that cause not a little surprise and amusement. It -is one of the most astonishing, and, perhaps, shocking -traits of barbarous life, that death revolutionises -completely the feelings of the survivors towards their -deceased husbands, wives, parents, and other relatives.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[Pg 86]</a></span></p> - -<p>A married couple may have been sincerely attached -to each other so long as the vital spark was twinkling, -but the moment it is extinguished the dead partner -becomes, not a sadly sweet reminiscence, but an -object of the liveliest terror to the survivor. He -or she does everything that ingenuity can suggest to -get himself or herself out of all association in body -and spirit with the late lamented. Death is held to -be thoroughly demoralising to the deceased. However -exemplary a person he or she may have been in -life, after death the ghost is little less than a plaguing, -spiteful spirit.</p> - -<p>There is in the savage no tender clinging to the -remembrance of the loved one; he is transformed into -a terrible bugbear, who must be evaded and avoided by -every contrivance conceivable. This is due, doubtless, -mainly to the inability of the uncultivated mind to -discriminate between what is seen waking from what -presents itself in phantasy to the dreaming head. -After a funeral it is natural enough for the mourners -to dream of the dead, and they at once conclude -that they have been visited by his <em>revenant</em>. After -a funeral feast—a great gorging of pork or beef—it -is very natural that the sense of oppression and pain -felt should be associated with the dear departed, and -should translate itself into the idea that he has come -from his grave to sit on the chests of those who have -bewailed him.</p> - -<p>Moreover, the savage associates the idea of desolation, -death, discomfort, with the condition of the soul -after death, and believes that the ghosts do all they -can to return to their former haunts and associates<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[Pg 87]</a></span> -for the sake of the warmth and food, the shelter of -the huts, and the entertainment of the society -of their fellows. But the living men and women -are not at all eager to receive the ghosts into the -family circle, and they accordingly adopt all kinds -of "dodges," expedients to prevent the departed from -making these irksome and undesired visits.</p> - -<p>The Venerable Bede tells us that Laurence, Archbishop -of Canterbury, resolved on flying from -England because he was hopeless of effecting any -good under the successor of Ethelbert, King of -Kent. The night before he fled he slept on the -floor of the church, and dreamed that S. Peter -cudgelled him soundly for resolving to abandon his -sacred charge. In the morning he awoke stiff and -full of aches and pains. Turned into modern -language we should say that Archbishop Laurence -was attacked with rheumatism on account of his -having slept on the cold stones of the church. His -mind had been troubled before he went to sleep with -doubts whether he was doing right in abandoning -his duty, and very naturally this trouble of conscience -coloured his dream and gave to his rheumatic twinges -the complexion they assumed in his mind.</p> - -<p>Now Archbishop Laurence regarded the Prince of -the Apostles in precisely the light in which a savage -views his deceased relatives and ancestors. He -associates his maladies, his pains, with them, if he -should happen to dream of them. If, however, when -in pain, he dreams of a living person, then he holds -that this living person has cast a magical spell over -him.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[Pg 88]</a></span></p> - -<p>Among Nature's men, before they have gone -through the mill of civilisation, plenty to eat and to -drink, and someone to talk to, are the essentials -of happiness. They see that the dead have none -of these requisites, they consider that they are -miserable without them. The writer remembers -how, when he was a boy, and attended the funeral -of a relative in November, he could not sleep all -night—a bitter frosty night—with the thought how -cold it must be to the dead in the vault, without -blankets, hot bottle, or fire. It was in vain for him -to reason against the feeling; the feeling was so -strong in him that he was conscious of an uncomfortable -expectation of the dead coming to claim -a share of the blanket, fire, or hot bottle. Now the -savage never reasons against such a feeling, and he -assumes that the dead will return, as a matter of -course, for what he cannot have in the grave.</p> - -<p>The ghost is very anxious to assert its former -rights. A widow has to get rid of the ghost of -her first husband before she can marry again. In -Parma a widow about to be remarried is pelted with -sticks and stones, not in the least because the -Parmese object to remarriage, but in order to scare -away the ghost of number one who is hanging about -his wife, and who will resent his displacement in her -affections by number two.</p> - -<p>To the present day, in some of the villages of the -ancient Duchy of Teck, in Würtemberg, it is customary -when a corpse is being conveyed to the cemetery -for the relatives and friends to surround the dead, and -in turn talk to it—assure it what a blessed rest it<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</a></span> -is going to; how anxious the kinsfolk are that it -may be comfortable; how handsome will be the cross -set over the grave; how much all desire that it may -sleep soundly and not by any means leave the grave -and come haunting old scenes and friends; how unreasonable -such conduct as the latter hinted at would -be—how it would alter the regard entertained for the -deceased, how disrespectful to the Almighty who -gives rest to the good, and how it would be regarded -as an admission of an uneasy conscience. Lively -comparisons are drawn between the joys of paradise -and the vale of tears that has been quitted, so as to -take away from the deceased all desire to return.</p> - -<p>This is a survival of primitive usage and mode -of thought, and has its analogies in many places and -among diverse races.</p> - -<p>The Dacotah Indians address the ghost of the -dead in the same "soft solder" to induce it to take -the road to the world of spirits, and not to come -sauntering back to its wigwam. In Siam and in -China it is much the same; persuasion, flattery, -threats, are employed.</p> - -<p>Unhappily, all ghosts are not open to persuasion, -and see through the designs of the mourners, and -with them severer measures have to be resorted to. -Among the Slavs of the Danube and the Czechs, -the bereaved, after the funeral, on going home, turn -themselves about after every few steps, and throw -sticks, stones, mud, even hot coals, in the direction -of the churchyard, so as to frighten the spirit back -to the grave so considerately provided for it. A -Finnish tribe has not even the decency to wait till<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</a></span> -the corpse is covered with soil; they fire pistols and -guns after it as it goes to its grave.</p> - -<p>In <em>Hamlet</em>, at the funeral of Ophelia, the priest -says:—</p> - -<div class="center"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i22">"For charitable prayers,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Shards, flints, and pebbles should be thrown on her."<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>Unquestionably it must have been customary in -England thus to pelt a ghost that was suspected -of the intention to wander. The stake driven -through the suicide's body was a summary way of -ensuring that his ghost should not be troublesome.</p> - -<p>Those Finns who fired guns after a dead man had -another expedient for holding him fast, if the first -failed, and that was to nail him down in his coffin. -The Arabs tie his legs together. The Wallachs drive -a long nail through his skull; and this usage explains -the many skulls that have been exhumed in -Germany thus perforated.</p> - -<p>The Californian Indians were wont to break the -spine of the corpse so as to paralyse his lower limbs -and make "walking" impossible. Spirit and body, -to the unreasoning mind, are intimately associated. -A hurt done to the body wounds the soul. Mrs. -Crowe, in her <cite>Night Side of Nature</cite>, tells a story -reversing this. A gentleman in Germany was dying. -He expressed great desire to see his son, who was -a ne'er-do-well, and was squandering his money in -Paris. At that time the young man was sitting on -a bench in the Bois-de-Boulogne, with a switch in -his hand. Suddenly, he beheld his old father before -him. Convinced that he saw a phantom, he raised<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[Pg 91]</a></span> -his switch, and cut the apparition once, twice, and -thrice across the face, and it vanished. At that -moment the dying father uttered a scream, and held -his hands to his face. "My boy! my boy! He is -striking me again—again!" and he died. The -Algonquin Indians beat the walls of the death-chamber -to drive out the ghost. In Sumatra a priest -is employed with a broom to sweep the ghost out. -In Scotland and in North Germany the chairs on -which a coffin has rested are reversed, lest the dead -man should take a fancy to sit on them instead of -going to his grave. In ancient Mexico certain professional -ghost ejectors were employed, who, after -a funeral, were invited to visit and thoroughly explore -the house whence the dead had been removed, -and if they found the ghost lurking about in corners, -in cupboards, under beds—anywhere, to kick it out. -In Siberia, after forty days' "law" given to the ghost, -if it be still found loafing about, the Schaman is sent -for, who drums it out. He extorts brandy, which -he professes to require, as he has to personally -conduct the deceased to the land of spirits, where -he will make it and the other ghosts so fuddled that -they will forget the way back to earth.</p> - -<p>In North Germany a troublesome ghost is bagged, -and the bag is emptied in some lone spot, or in the -garden of a neighbour against whom a grudge is -entertained.</p> - -<p>Another mode of getting rid of the spirit of the -dear departed is to confuse it as to its way home. -This is done in various ways. Sometimes the road -by which it has been carried to its resting-place is<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[Pg 92]</a></span> -swept to efface the footprints, and a false track is -made into a wood or on to a moor so that the ghost -may take the wrong road. Sometimes ashes are -strewn on the way to hide the footprints. Sometimes -the dead is carried rapidly three or four times -round the house so as to make him giddy and not -know in which direction he is carried.<a name="FNanchor_10_10" id="FNanchor_10_10"></a><a href="#Footnote_10_10" class="fnanchor">[10]</a> The universal -practice of closing the eyes of the dead may -be taken to have originated in the desire that he -might be prevented from seeing his way.</p> - -<p>In places it was, as already said, customary for the -dead body to be taken out of the house, not through -the door, but by a hole knocked in the wall for the -purpose, and backwards. In Corea, blinders made of -black silk are put on the dead man's eyes, to prevent -him from finding his way home.</p> - -<p>Many savage nations entirely abandon a hut or -a camp in which a death has occurred for precisely -the same reason—of throwing the dead man's spirit -into confusion as to its way home.</p> - -<p>It was a common practice in England till quite -recently for the room in which a death had occurred -to be closed for some time, and this is merely a -survival of the custom of abandoning the place -where a spirit has left the body. The Esquimaux -take out their dying relatives to huts constructed -of blocks of ice or snow, and leave them there to -expire, for ghosts are as stupid as they are troublesome;<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[Pg 93]</a></span> -they have no more wits than a peacock, they -can only find their way to the place where they died.</p> - -<p>Other usages are to divert a stream and bury the -corpse in the river-bed, or lay it beyond running -water, which, according to ghost-lore, it cannot pass. -Or, again, fires are lighted across its path, and it -shrinks from passing through flames. As for water, -ghosts loathe it. Among the Matamba negroes a -widow is flung into the water and dipped repeatedly -so as to wash off the ghost of the dead husband, -which is supposed to be clinging to her. In New -Zealand, among the Maoris, all who have followed -the corpse dive into water so as to throw off the -ghost which is sneaking home after them. In Tahiti, -all who have assisted at a burial run as hard as they -can to the sea and take headers into it for the same -object. It is the same in New Guinea. We see the -same idea reduced to a mere form in ancient Rome, -where, in place of the dive through water, a vessel -of water was carried twice round those who had -followed the corpse, and they were sprinkled. The -custom of washing for purification after a funeral -practised by the Jews is a reminiscence of the usage, -with a novel explanation given to it.</p> - -<p>In the South Pacific, in the Hervey Islands, after a -death, men turn out to pummel and fight the returning -spirit, and give it a good drubbing in the air.</p> - -<p>Now perhaps the reader may have been brought -to understand what the sundry mourning costumes -originally meant. They were disguises whereby to -deceive the ghosts, so that they might not recognise -and pester with their undesired attentions the rela<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[Pg 94]</a></span>tives -who live. Indians who are wont to paint themselves -habitually, go after a funeral totally un-bedecked -with colour. On the other hand, other savages daub -themselves fantastically with various colours, making -themselves as unlike to what they were previously as -is possible. The Coreans, when in mourning, assume -hats with low rims that conceal their features.</p> - -<p>The Papuans conceal themselves under extinguishers -made of banana leaves. Elsewhere in New -Guinea they envelop themselves in a wicker-work -frame in which they can hardly walk. Among the -Mpongues of Western Africa, those who on ordinary -occasions wear garments, when suffering bereavement -walk in complete nudity. Valerius Maximus tells -us that among the Lycians it was customary in -mourning for the men to disguise themselves in -women's garments.</p> - -<p>The custom of cutting the hair short, and of -scratching and disfiguring the face, and of rending -the garments, all originated from the same thought—to -make the survivors unrecognisable by the ghost -of the deceased. Plutarch asserts that the Sacæ, -after a death, went down into pits and hid themselves -for days from the light of the sun. Australian -widows near the north-west bend of the Murray -shave their heads and plaster them with pipe-clay, -which, when dry, forms a close-fitting skull-cap. The -spirit of the late lamented, on returning to his better -half, either does not recognise his spouse, or is so -disgusted with her appearance that he leaves her for -ever.</p> - -<p>There is almost no end to the expedients adopted<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[Pg 95]</a></span> -for getting rid of the dead. Piles of stones are -heaped over them, they are buried deep in the earth, -they are walled up in natural caves, they are inclosed -in megalithic structures, they are burned, they are -sunk in the sea. They are threatened, they are -cajoled, they are hoodwinked. Every sort of trickery -is had recourse to throw them off the scent of home -and to displease them with their living relations.</p> - -<p>The wives, horses, dogs slain and buried with -them, the copious supplies of food and drink laid -on their graves, are bribes to induce them to be -content with their situation. Nay, further, in very -many places no food may be eaten in the house of -mourning for many days after an interment. The -object, of course, is to disappoint the returning spirit, -which comes seeking a meal, finds none; comes again -next day, finds none again; and after a while out of -sheer disgust desists from returning.</p> - -<p>A vast amount of misdirected ingenuity is expended -in bamboozling and bullying the unhappy -ghosts; but the feature most striking in these proceedings -is the unanimous agreement in considering -these ghosts as such imbeciles. When they put off -their outward husk, they divest themselves of all -that cunning which is the form that intelligence -takes in the savage. Not only so, but, although they -remember and crave after home comforts, they absolutely -forget the tricks they had themselves played -on the souls of the dead in their own lifetime; they -walk and blunder into the traps which they had -themselves laid for other ghosts in the days of their -flesh.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[Pg 96]</a></span></p> - -<p>Perhaps the lowest abyss of dunderheadedness -they have been supposed to reach is when made to -mistake their own identity. Recently, near Mentone, -a series of prehistoric interments in caves has been -exposed. They reveal the dead men as having had -their heads daubed over with red oxide of iron. -Still extant races of savages paint, plaster, and disfigure -their dead. The prehistoric Greeks masked -them. The Aztecs masked their deceased kings, and -the Siamese do so still. We cannot say with absolute -certainty what the object is, but we are probably not -far out when we conjecture the purpose to be to make -the dead forget who they are when they look at their -reflection in the water. There was a favourite song -sung some sixty years ago relative to a little old -woman who got "muzzy." Whilst in this condition -some naughty boys cut her skirts at her knees. When -she woke up and saw her condition, "Lawk!" said -the little old woman, "this never is me!" And -certain ancient peoples treated their dead in something -the same way; they disguised and disfigured -them so that each ghost on waking up might exclaim, -"Lawk! this never is me!" And so, having -lost its identity, the soul did not consider that it -had a right to revisit its old home and molest its old -acquaintances.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> -<a href="images/p097_full.jpg"><img src="images/p097_thumb.jpg" width="400" height="353" alt="" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><a href="images/p097_full.jpg">PLAN OF WHITTOR CAMP</a></p></div> -</div> - -<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_10_10" id="Footnote_10_10"></a><a href="#FNanchor_10_10"><span class="label">[10]</span></a> This was done at Manaton at every funeral, the only difference -being that he was carried round and round the cross. A former rector, -Rev. C. Carwithen, destroyed the cross so as to put a stop to this -practice.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[Pg 97]</a></span></p></div></div> -<div class="chapter"></div> -<hr class="chap" /> - - - - -<h2>CHAPTER VII.<br /> - -THE CAMPS</h2> - -<div class="hangindent"> - -<p>No camps in the forest—All on the confines—No apprehension of -attack from the south—Whit Tor—The exploration of the camp—How -the walls were constructed—This explains their ruinous -condition—Brent Tor formerly a camp—How a road up it was made—The -Dewerstone camp—Earthen camps—Hembury—The Galford -Down camp—A Saxon thegn's burrh—Old Squire Bidlake—Lydford -fortifications.</p></div> - - -<p class="drop-capw"><span class="smcap">As</span> I have already said, the inhabitants of Dartmoor -in prehistoric times seem to have been -of a peaceable disposition. There are pounds to -contain cattle and protect them against wolves, but -no camps on the moor itself. What camps there -are will be found on its confines, as though the -natives feared attack from an enemy outside, but -were not troubled by their neighbours of the same -blood and pursuits.</p> - -<p>Of camps there are two sorts, but we cannot be -sure that they belong to different races of men. -The stone-walled fortresses are few—Brent Tor, Whit -Tor, Cranbrook, one near Ashburton, and the Dewerstone. -Of earth, or earth and stone mixed, there -are more. A small one above Tavistock, an immense -and very important one at Galford or Burleigh in -Bridestowe, one above the station at Okehampton,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[Pg 98]</a></span> -Wooston and Prestonbury on the Teign, Holne and -Hembury on the Dart. Along the south of the -moor are none till we reach Boringdon, between -the Plym and the Tory. But one only of all these -has been systematically explored, and that is, -perhaps, the finest, on Whit Tor, above Mary and -Peter Tavy.</p> - -<p>Whit Tor rises to the height of 1,526 feet above -the sea-level. It is on Cudlipptown Down, and -commands exceedingly fine views westward as far -as the distant Cornish hills.</p> - -<p>The tor is not of granite, but of gabbro, an eruptive -igneous rock, very black and hard, and splitting -along defined planes under the action of the weather. -The north side near the summit is covered with a -clitter of broken masses.</p> - -<p>The boldest masses of rock rise on the south -precipitously, but there are fangs of rock that shoot -up over the small plateau that forms the summit -of the hill.</p> - -<p>The whole of the summit is surrounded by a -double wall in a very ruinous condition, and this -is to a considerable extent due to the smallness of -the stones of which it was composed. The faces -of the walls were to be traced only by digging, -and were never more than doubtful.</p> - -<p>Both walls appear to have been 10 feet thick, -perhaps a little more; the outer, when perfect, might -have had a height of 4 to 4½ feet, whilst the inner, -judged by the débris, appears to have been 6 to -7 feet high.</p> - -<p>The space between the walls varied, owing to the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[Pg 99]</a></span> -inequalities of the ground, but was generally 10 feet -wide.</p> - -<p>The area inclosed by the innermost wall amounts -to close on one and a half acres; the total amount -included within the outer wall is about two and a -half acres of ground.</p> - -<p>The circumference is very much broken up, as is -also the inclosed area, by considerable masses of -protruding rocks. About these, within the camp, -heaps of small stones had been piled up, forming -cairns. The largest and most notable of these is at -the south-west, and consists of a core of rock about -which an immense accumulation of stones has been -heaped. All these cairns were thoroughly explored. -They covered no interments, and although they disclosed -evidences that fires had been lighted against -the rocks, and that people had camped there for a -while, they showed no tokens of structural erection, -as though they were ruinous huts built against the -native rock. The huge cairn was removed with great -labour, and revealed nothing whatever beneath it -but one flint flake.</p> - -<p>These cairns, there can be little doubt, were collections -of stones for the use of the besieged, to -serve as missiles, or for the repair of the walls.</p> - -<p>Within the area of the camp are a few hut circles. -One near the centre is double, and contained an -incredible number of flint chips, a flint scraper, and -a core from which flakes had been struck. The -whole area is littered with flint chips that are brought -up by the moles when making their burrows, and -curiously enough not a single arrow-head or flake<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[Pg 100]</a></span> -that can be confidently set down as a weapon has -been disinterred. The pottery found is all of the -hand-made cooking-vessel type.</p> - -<p>To the east is a circle sheltered on one side by -a mass of rock, that has a second chamber, a sort of -bedroom made under a slab of rock, with the -interstices on all sides built up, except only on that -by which it was entered from the hut. A good deal -of flint was found there. Outside, on the south, was -another hut circle, where a piece of clear quartz -crystal was found, together with a flint knife that -had one edge serrated by use.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> -<img src="images/p100.jpg" width="700" height="367" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p>COVERED CHAMBER AND COOKING-HOLE.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Connected with the camp on the north-east is a -ruined wall that leads to an inclosure with numerous -hut circles. South-west of the camp further down -the hill is a pound in good preservation with eight -hut circles in it. A reeve or bank to the west of -the camp leads down to other collections of habitations -of the same description.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[Pg 101]</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> -<img src="images/p101.jpg" width="700" height="363" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p>CONSTRUCTION OF STONE AND TIMBER WALL.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Some ten cairns on the slopes have been investigated, -but have yielded little beyond the handful -of ashes sunk in a pit in the centre that represents -the dead. A ruined kistvaen, much mutilated, lies -between the camp and the Langstone, a menhir that -gives its name to the common, and which is the -starting-point of a stone row of very inconsiderable -blocks that led to a cairn now demolished, and its -place occupied by a pool. From Langstone a track -to the south-east leads by the head of the Peter -Tavy stream, which rises in a bog, to a fine circle -of standing stones, and on the slope below that and -above the Walkham river is a large settlement of -some thirty or forty habitations. Beyond the Peter -Tavy brook, moreover, are numerous clusters of -dwellings. To all the population who lived in these -huts, Whit Tor had served as a camp of refuge. The -place deserves a visit, for we have there collected -within a small radius the houses and hamlets occupied<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[Pg 102]</a></span> -by the primeval race, the tombs of their dead, the -stone row set up in memory of some chief represented -by the Longstone towering above the petty -stones below, the circle in which the dead were -burned, and finally, the camp to which they flew to -defend their beloved moor from invasion.</p> - -<p>It may cause some surprise that the walls of the -stone castles should be in such complete ruin. But, -in all likelihood, they were constructed on the same -principle as the Gaulish camps described by Cæsar. -They were built of timber frames packed in with -stones, and the logs mortised together held the -stones in place. When, however, the wood rotted, -this mode of construction ensured and precipitated -utter ruin. At Murcens, in the department of Lot, -is one of these stone camps, and sufficiently well -preserved, owing to the size of the limestone slabs -employed in the building, to show precisely how -the whole was constructed. But the walls of Iosolodunum, -that held out so bravely against Cæsar, being -built of small stones compacted with timber, are -now but heaps of ruin, no better than those of Whit -Tor.</p> - -<p>Brent Tor was fortified in a manner very similar to -Whit Tor; the outer wall remains fairly perfect on -the north side, but the inner wall has been much -injured. In this instance it is not the summit, but -the base of the hill that has been defended. As -there is a church on the summit, as also a churchyard -with its wall, these have drawn their supplies -from the circumvallation. Moreover, it has been -broken through to form a way up to the church.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> -<img src="images/p103.jpg" width="700" height="468" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p>BRENT TOR</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[Pg 103]</a></span></p> - -<p>A late curate of Tavistock, whose function it was -to take the service on Brent Tor, and who found it -often desperate work to scramble to the summit -in storm and sleet and rain, resolved on forming a -roadway to the churchyard gate. But he experienced -some difficulty in persuading men to go out from -Tavistock to work at this churchway. However, he -supplied himself with several bottles of whisky, and -when he saw a sturdy labourer standing idle in the -market-place he invited him into his lodgings and -plied him with hot grog, till the man in a moist -and smiling condition assented to the proposition -that he should give a day to the Brent Tor path. By -this means it was made. The curate was wont to -say: "Hannibal cut his way through the Alps with -vinegar; I hewed mine over Brent Tor with prime -usquebaugh." Few traces of this way remain, but -in making it sad mischief was made with the inner -wall of the fortress.</p> - -<p>On Brent Tor summit it is sometimes impossible to -stand against the wind. I remember how that on -one occasion a baptismal party mounted it in driving -rain. The father carried the child, and he wore for -the occasion a new blue jersey. When the poor -babe was presented at the font it was not only -streaming with water, but its sopped white garments -had become blue with the stain from the father's -jersey.</p> - -<p>On an occasion of a funeral, when the parson -emerged from the church door he was all but -prostrated by the north-west blast, and he and the -funeral party had to proceed to the grave much like<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[Pg 104]</a></span> -frogs. "Crook'y down, sir!" was the sexton's advice; -and the whole company had to press forward bent -double, and to finish the service seated in the "lew" -of headstones.</p> - -<p>According to popular belief the graves, which are -cut in the volcanic tufa, fill with water, and the -dead dissolve into a sort of soup. But this is not -true; the rock is dry and porous. It discharges its -drainage by a little spring on the north-east that -in process of ages has worked itself from stage to -stage lower down the hill.</p> - -<p>The Dewerstone Camp consists of two stone walls -drawn across the headland. No walls were needed -for the sides that were precipitous. Cranbrook -Castle is in very good preservation, except on the -side towards the Teign, where it has been removed -by road-menders, but not within recent years. It -richly deserves to be investigated, and the owners -have recently granted permission to do so to the -Dartmoor Exploration Committee.</p> - -<p>We come next to the earthen-banked camps. Of -these there is a very fine example at Hembury, -near Buckfastleigh. But the finest of all is in -Burleigh Wood, in the parish of Bridestowe. Here -the side accessible from Galford Down has been cut -through, with a trench and a bank thrown up on -the camp side, and this is carried right across the -neck. The earthen banks were almost certainly -crested with palisades. Hard by this early camp, -where a bronze palstave has been found, is another -of a different character, occupying the extreme point -of the hill. This consists of a tump or mound, with<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[Pg 105]</a></span> -an earthwork round it as a ring. In this are remains -of iron-smelting.</p> - -<p>There can be little doubt as to the period of this -latter. It was the <em>burrh</em> of the Anglo-Saxon, and -was in every point similar to the <em>mottes</em> of the -Merovingians in France. On the Bayeux tapestry -three fortified places are represented—Dinan, Dol, -and Rennes—and all are of the same type. A mound -of earth was either thrown up, or a hilltop was -artificially shaped like a tumulus. On the top of -this the <em>thegn</em> erected his fortress of wood. In the -Bayeux representations the superstructures at Dol -and Rennes are of timber, and that of Dinan is -partly of timber and partly of stone. A flying -bridge of wood led from the gate in the palisading -of the outer ring, supported on posts, and conducted -by an incline to the gate of the citadel. An example -of one of these camps at Bishopston in Gower has -been explored recently.<a name="FNanchor_11_11" id="FNanchor_11_11"></a><a href="#Footnote_11_11" class="fnanchor">[11]</a> The stumps of the pales -were there found embedded in the clay of the bank, -in tolerable preservation.</p> - -<p>In the valley below Burleigh Camp, commanding -the ancient road from Exeter by Okehampton to -Launceston, was a third camp, that has been for -the most part obliterated; it occupied a rising knoll -of limestone, and this latter has been quarried, so -that the camp earthworks have been either destroyed -or buried under the accumulations from the quarry.</p> - -<p>The locality is of great interest. The ridge goes -by the name of Galford, and there is reason to think<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[Pg 106]</a></span> -that this was the Gavulford of the Anglo-Saxon -Chronicle, where, in 823, the Britons made their last -stand against Egbert and the Saxons of Devon.</p> - -<p>The place is by nature very strong, and it dominates -two roads, that from Exeter to Cornwall, and -that which branched off from it on Sourton Down -and struck through Sourton to Lydford. The name -Gavulford signifies the holdfast on the <em>fordd</em> or road.</p> - -<p>Burleigh Camp is on the estate of Bidlake, an -interesting old manor house, long the residence of -a family of the same name, and deserving a visit. -Old Squire Bidlake was a zealous Royalist, and the -Parliamentary soldiers went to his house to seize -him. As they entered the avenue they met an -elderly tramp in rags, and said, "You fellow. Have -you seen Squire Bidlake?"</p> - -<p>"Yes," he replied; "I've just come from the house, -and when I was there he was in it."</p> - -<p>Then he went his way, and not till too late did -they discover that this tramp was Squire Bidlake -himself slipping away in disguise.</p> - -<p>He fled to Burleigh Wood. There is a little farm -below it, in which, at the time, lived a tenant of the -name of Veale. Veale and his wife and daughter -concealed him in the underwood, and daily conveyed -to him food, and supplied him with blankets till the -search for him ceased.</p> - -<p>At the Restoration, Squire Bidlake made over the -farm to the Veales on a nominal rent, to be held by -them on this rent so long as a male Veale of their -descent remained to hold it.</p> - -<p>Both Bidlakes and Veales are now gone, and the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[Pg 107]</a></span> -little farmhouse is a ruin. Squire Bidlake is supposed -still to haunt the wood, and children are -frightened by their mothers with the threat that -the old squire will come and fetch them, if naughty.</p> - -<p>Lydford was strongly defended. It occupies a -fringe of land between ravines, and lines of fortification -were drawn across the neck. These may still -be traced. The castle stands on a tump artificially -shaped. Beyond the church is another small camp, -probably British. The castle itself is a structure of -stone, replacing the old Saxon <em>burrh</em>.</p> - -<p>It was probably from the bridges leading up into -these citadels, which the Norsemen saw when they -harried our coasts, that they conceived the idea that -the rainbow was the great bridge leading up into -Odin's Valhalla.</p> - -<p>"What fools the gods must be," says the inquirer -in the Edda, "to build their passage of egress and -ingress of such brittle stuff."</p> - -<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_11_11" id="Footnote_11_11"></a><a href="#FNanchor_11_11"><span class="label">[11]</span></a> <cite>Archæologia Cambrensis</cite>, July, 1899. The camp was excavated -by Colonel W. L. Morgan.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[Pg 108]</a></span></p></div></div> -<div class="chapter"></div> -<hr class="chap" /> - - - - -<h2>CHAPTER VIII<br /> - -TIN-STREAMING</h2> - -<div class="hangindent"> - -<p>Remains of the tin-streamers—Dartmoor stream tin—Lode tin—The -dweller in the hut circles did not work the tin—The tin trade -with Britain—How tin was extracted—A furnace—Deep Swincombe—Blowing-houses—The -wheel introduced in the reign of -Elizabeth—Japanese primitive methods—Numerous blowing-house -ruins—The tin-mould stones—Merrivale Bridge—King's Oven—Its -present condition—Mining.</p></div> - - -<p class="drop-capw"><span class="smcap">No</span> one who has eyes in his head, and considers -what he sees, if he has been on Dartmoor, can -have failed to observe how that every stream-bed -has been turned over, and how that every hollow -in a hillside is furrowed.</p> - -<p>The tin-streamers who thus scarred the face of the -moor carried on their works far down below where -the rivers debouch from the moor on to the lowlands, -but there the evidences of their toil have been effaced -by culture.</p> - -<p>The tin found in the detritus of streams is the -oxide, and is far purer than tin found in the lode. -Mining for tin was pursued on Dartmoor during the -Middle Ages to a limited extent only, and solely -when the stream tin was exhausted.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> -<img src="images/p108.jpg" width="700" height="462" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p>BLOWING-HOUSE UNDER BLACK TOR</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[Pg 109]</a></span></p> - -<p>A very interesting excursion may be made from -Douseland Station up the Meavy valley to Nosworthy -Bridge, above which several old tin-moulds may be -seen lying in the track beside the river, and tin-workings -are passed. But perhaps the most interesting -portion of the walk is that up the Nillacombe -that opens on to the Meavy from the right below -Kingset.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> -<img src="images/p109.jpg" width="700" height="486" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p>TIN-WORKINGS, NILLACOMBE.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Above this the stream has been turned about and -its bed torn up, and rubble heaped in huge piles. -Not only so, but the hill-slope to the south is marked -as with confluent smallpox, the result of the gropings -of miners after tin. They followed up every trickle -from the side and dug <em>costeening</em>, or <em>shoding</em>, pits -everywhere in search of metal.</p> - -<p>The upper waters of the Webburn have in like -manner been explored, and some idea of the extent -to which the moor was lacerated by the miners may -be obtained from the Warren Inn on the road<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[Pg 110]</a></span> -from Post Bridge to Moreton, looking east, when the -slopes of Headland Warren and Challacombe will be -seen seamed deeply.</p> - -<p>The remains of the tinners have not been subjected -to as full an exploration as they merit, but certain -results have nevertheless been reached. One thing -is abundantly clear, that all the tin-streaming was -done subsequently to the time when men occupied -the hut circles. The population living in them -knew nothing of tin.</p> - -<p>Diodorus Siculus, who wrote <span class="smcap">B.C.</span> 8, says that the -dwellers at Belerium, a cape of Britain, mined and -smelted tin. "After beating it up into knucklebone -shapes they carry it to a certain island lying off -Britain, named Ictis, for at ebb tides, the space -between drying up, they carry the tin in waggons -thither ... and thence the merchants buy it from -the inhabitants and carry it over to Gaul, and lastly, -travelling by land through Gaul about thirty days, -they bring down the loads on horses to the mouth -of the Rhine."</p> - -<p>There can exist little doubt that Ictis is the same -as Vectis, the Isle of Wight. It is held that anciently -the island was connected with the mainland. The -Roman station and harbour was at Brading. The -early workers first pounded the ore with stone -crushers, and such have been found. They then -fanned it in the wind, which carried off the fine -light dust, and left the metal on the shovels on -which they tossed the ore and grit into the air. -Beside some of the workings heaps of this dust -have been detected. The washing of the ore came<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[Pg 111]</a></span> -later. When sufficient had been collected, long -troughs were sunk in the "calm," or native clay, -and these were filled with charcoal; then the tin -ore was laid on this charcoal, and either more of -this latter was heaped above, or else peat was piled -up, with layers of ore. Finally the whole was -kindled. No bellows were used, but a draught -through the channel kept the whole glowing, and -the metal ran through the fire into the bottom of -the hollow, or ran out at the end, as this rude -furnace was constructed on an incline.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<img src="images/p111.jpg" width="500" height="417" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p>MORTAR-STONE, OKEFORD.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[Pg 112]</a></span></p> - -<p>In Staffordshire, at Kinver, and in the neighbourhood -of Stourbridge, in Worcestershire, I have seen -banks and hedges made up of what are locally called -<em>burrs</em>. These consist of masses of sand and iron -slag, two feet in diameter, round, and concave on one -side, convex on the other. These burrs were formed -in the primitive manufacture of iron, which much -resembled that of tin. Andrew Yarranton, in <cite>England's -Improvement by Sea and Land</cite>, 1698, says that -he saw dug up near the walls of Worcester the -hearth of an old Roman iron-furnace.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>"It was an open hearth upon which was placed alternately -charcoal and ironstone, to which fire being applied; -it was urged by men treading upon bellows. The operation -was very slow and imperfect. Unless the ore was very -rich, not more than one hundredweight of iron could be -extracted in a day. The ironstone did not melt, but was -found at the bottom of the hearth in a large lump or -bloom, which was afterwards taken out and beaten under -massive hammers previous to its being worked into the -required shape or form."</p></div> - -<p>The <em>burrs</em> found are the sand and iron mixed that -encased the <em>bloom</em>, which was taken out by pincers -and worked on the anvil. The scoria that encased -the bloom was thrown aside, and yet contains more -than one-half of iron. The iron reduced in this -simple manner never ran, but it became soft like -dough, and could be removed and beaten into -shape.</p> - -<p>The method of dealing with the tin was similar, -only that in this latter case the metal flowed. That<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[Pg 113]</a></span> -foot bellows were employed before the system of -working bellows, and producing a continuous blast -by means of a water-wheel, is most probable. The -foot bellows are known to most primitive people, -but in Agricola's illustration of the smelting of tin -none are shown. On the contrary, Æolus is represented -in the corner as blowing a natural blast.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> -<img src="images/p113.jpg" width="550" height="427" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p>SLAG-POUNDING HOLLOWS, GOBBETTS.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The book of Agricola, published in 1556, shows -that this primitive method was still in practice so -late as the middle of the sixteenth century.</p> - -<p>But this clumsy method could not be long practised -on Dartmoor, where fuel—except peat—was<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[Pg 114]</a></span> -scarce; and it gave way to a furnace of better construction, -where the receiver was circular, and a -draught-hole was at the bottom. One of these has -been dug out and carefully examined at Deep Swincombe.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 638px;"> -<img src="images/p114.jpg" width="638" height="700" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p>SMELTING ORE. (<em>After Agricola.</em>)</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[Pg 115]</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> -<img src="images/p115.jpg" width="700" height="452" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p>PLAN OF BLOWING-HOUSE, DEEP SWINCOMBE.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[Pg 116]</a></span></p> - -<p>It consists of a single chamber, 18 feet by 11 feet, -rudely constructed of masses of granite resting on -one another by their own weight and unset in mortar -or in clay. The entrance was narrow and low. On -one side was the furnace, constructed of granite, one -slab set upright to form a side, and the back and -other side built up rudely. A fragment of the -receptacle for the molten tin was found, with a -receiver and channel cut in it. Pottery was also -found, which was of a very early description. It -was submitted to the late Sir Wollaston Franks, of -the British Museum, who said that he would have -attributed it to the Celtic period but for the bold -scores made at the starting-point of a handle, which -are characteristic of Anglo-Saxon pottery.</p> - -<p>At the extremity furthest from the door was a -<em>cache</em> in the thickness of the wall, formed something -like a kistvaen, as a place in which to store the metal -and tools. The whole structure was banked up with -rubble and turf.</p> - -<p>Outside to the south still lies a mould-stone, a slab -of elvan, in which the mould had been cut, measuring -26 inches long by 12 inches at one end and 15 at the -other, and 5 inches deep.</p> - -<p>That this is the earliest tin-furnace yet discovered -on Dartmoor admits of no doubt. The curious mould-stone -is quite different in shape from any others -found on the moor. No mortar-stones were discovered, -and this also is a token of antiquity.</p> - -<p>The earliest smelting arrangements must have -been very crude, and much tin was left in the slag. -Until recently the Malays threw away their slags, -which contained as much as 40 per cent. of tin. As -there have been no mortar-stones found at Deep<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[Pg 117]</a></span> -Swincombe, it is to be presumed that the tinners -disregarded their slags. These have not, moreover, -been found. The reason was this—the sets had been -reworked at a later time by the tinners at Gobbetts, -further down the river. These later men had stone -mortars and a crazing mill, and finding these rich -slags, removed them, pounded them up in the -hollowed mortar-stones, that may be seen <i lang="la">in situ</i> -at Gobbetts, and re-smelted them. Deep Swincombe -has all the appearance of having been much pulled -about by tinners since the first furnace was erected.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> -<img src="images/p117.jpg" width="550" height="461" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p>TIN-MOULD, DEEP SWINCOMBE.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The tin running out of the furnace was allowed to -flow into holes in the ground, and thence was ladled<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[Pg 118]</a></span> -whilst in a molten condition and poured into the -moulds.</p> - -<p>Mr. Gowland has given a most interesting account -of the manner in which the metals are extracted from -their ores in Japan.<a name="FNanchor_12_12" id="FNanchor_12_12"></a><a href="#Footnote_12_12" class="fnanchor">[12]</a> This shows how that the -primitive methods are still in practice there. He -says:—</p> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>"Although tin ore is found and worked in Japan in -several localities, there is but one ancient mine in the -country. It is situated in Taniyama, in the province of -Satsuma. The excavations of the old miners here are of -a most extensive character, the hillsides in places being -literally honeycombed by their burrows, indicating the -production in past times of large quantities of the metal. -No remains, however, have been found to give any clue -to the date of the earliest workings. But whatever may -have been their date, the processes and appliances of the -early smelters could not have been more primitive than -those I found in use when I visited the mines in 1883.</p> - -<p>"The ore was roughly broken up by hammers on stone -anvils, then reduced to a coarse powder with the pounders -used for decorticating rice, the mortars being large blocks -of stone with roughly hollowed cavities.</p> - -<p>"It was finally ground in stone querns, and washed by -women in a stream to remove the earthy matter and foreign -minerals with which it was contaminated. The furnace in -which the ore was smelted is exactly the same as that used -for copper ores, excepting that it is somewhat less in -diameter. The ore was charged into it wet, in alternate -layers with charcoal, and the process was conducted in -precisely the same way as in smelting oxidised copper ores. -The tin obtained was laded out of the furnace into moulds -of clay."</p></div> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[Pg 119]</a></span></p> -<p>The furnace employed for copper is also described -by Mr. Gowland:—</p> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>"An excavation, measuring about 4 feet long, 4 feet wide, -and 2 feet deep, is made, and this is filled with dry clay -carefully beaten down. In the centre of this bed of clay -a shallow, conical-shaped hole is scooped out. The hole is -then lined with a layer, about three inches thick, of damp -clay mixed with charcoal, and the furnace is complete.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> -<img src="images/p119.jpg" width="700" height="548" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p>SMELTING TIN IN JAPAN.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>"It has no apertures either for the injection of the blast -or for tapping out the metal. A blast of air is supplied to -it generally from two bellows, placed behind a wall of wattle -well coated with clay, by which they and the men working -them are protected from the heat. The blast is led from -each bellows by a bamboo tube, terminating in a very long -nozzle of clay, which rests on the edge of the furnace cavity."</p></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[Pg 120]</a></span></p> - -<p>At Deep Swincombe no bellows were used; the -draught probably came in through the hole behind -the furnace.</p> - -<p>But in the reign of Queen Elizabeth a great revolution -in the smelting of tin was wrought by the -introduction of German workmen and their improved -methods. They brought in the water-wheel. The -ruins that are found in such abundance of "blowing-houses," -as they are called—one at the least beside -every considerable stream—belong, for the most part, -to the Elizabethan period. They have their "leats" -for carrying water to them, and their pits for tiny -wheels that worked the bellows.</p> - -<p>The situation of these smelting-houses may be -found usually by the mould-stones that lie near them. -There is one below the slide or fall of the Yealm, -with its moulds in and by it, and another just above -the fall. There is one near the megalithic remains at -Drizzlecombe, also with its mould-stones. But it -is unnecessary to particularise when they are so -numerous. I will, however, quote Mr. R. Burnard's -description of two in the Walkham valley as typical:</p> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>"The first is about 250 yards above Merrivale Bridge, -on the left bank of the river. One jamb is erect, and, like -most of the doorways of Dartmoor blowing-houses, was -low, and to be entered necessitated an almost all-fours -posture. Very little of the walls is standing, but what -remains is composed of large moor-stones, dry laid. Near -the entrance is a stone, 3 feet long and 2½ feet wide, -containing a mould, which at the top is 18 inches long, -13 inches wide, and 6 inches deep. The sides are bevelled, -so that the bottom length is 12½ inches, with a width of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[Pg 121]</a></span> -7 inches at one end and 8 inches at the other. One end -of the mould has a narrow gutter leading from the top to -halfway down the mould. This was probably used for the -insertion of a piece of iron prior to the metal being run in, -thus permitting the easy withdrawal of the block of tin -when cool from the mould. This stone also contains a -small bevelled ingot or sample mould, 4 inches long, 2 -inches wide, and 1¼ inches deep.</p> - -<p>"A water-wheel probably stood in the eastern recess of -the house, for there is a covered drain leading from here -right under the house and out at the western end, where -the water was discharged into the river. Traces of the -leat which supplied the motive power to this wheel may -also be seen.</p> - -<p>"What appear to be the remains of the furnace, consisting -of massive stones placed vertically, and inclosing -a small rectangular space, are plainly visible. In this -place, lying askew, as if it had been thrown out of position, -is a large stone containing a long, shallow cavity, which -may have been the bottom of the furnace or 'float,' <em>i.e.</em> -the cavity in which the molten tin collected before being -ladled into the mould.</p> - -<p>"This ruin lies at the nether end of deep, open cuttings, -which start from near Rundlestone Corner, and are continued -right down to the Walkham.</p> - -<p>"About 1,000 yards up stream is the ruin of the other -blowing-house, with remains of a wheel-pit and a leat. -There is also a stone containing a mould 16 inches long -at the top, 11 inches wide, and 6 inches deep. It is -bevelled, so that the bottom length is 12½ inches, with a -width of 8 inches. Like the mould-stone in the ruin below, -it contains a sample ingot mould 3½ inches long, -3 inches wide, and 2 inches deep. The remains in these -ruins are very similar to each other, and these blowing-<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[Pg 122]</a></span>houses -were probably smelting during the same period, -indicating that a considerable quantity of tin was raised -in their neighbourhood."<a name="FNanchor_13_13" id="FNanchor_13_13"></a><a href="#Footnote_13_13" class="fnanchor">[13]</a></p></div> - -<p>Anciently, before the introduction of the wheel, -the smelting-place above all others was at King's -Oven, or Furnum Regis, near the Warren Inn, between -Post Bridge and Moreton. It is mentioned -in the <cite>Perambulation of Dartmoor</cite>, made in 1240. It -consists of a circular inclosure of about seventy-two -yards in diameter, forming a pound, with the remains -of a quadrangular building in it. The furnace itself -was destroyed some years ago. When the inclosure -was made it was carried to a cairn that was in part -demolished, to serve to form the bank of the pound. -This cairn was ringed about with upright stones, and -contained a kistvaen. The latter was rifled, and -most of the stones removed to form the walls; but -a few of the inclosing uprights were not meddled -with, and between two was found firmly wedged -a beautiful flint scraper.</p> - -<p>As the drift tin was exhausted, and the slag of the -earlier miners was used up, it became necessary to -run adits for tin, and work the veins. These adits -remain in several places, and where they have been -opened have yielded up iron bars and picks. But -these are not more ancient than mediæval times, -probably late in them. That gold was found in the -granite rubble of the stream-beds is likely. A model -of a gold-washing apparatus was found on the moor -a few years ago. It was made of zinc.</p> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[Pg 123]</a></span></p> -<p>According to an old Irish historical narrative, a -bard was wont to carry a wand of "white bronze" -or tin, and his shoes were also tin-plated.<a name="FNanchor_14_14" id="FNanchor_14_14"></a><a href="#Footnote_14_14" class="fnanchor">[14]</a> One -wonders whether at any time a bard thus shod and -with his rod of office strode over Dartmoor and -chanted historic ballads there!</p> - -<p>For such as would care to see these dry bones of -antiquarian research into the past of tin-streamers -clothed with flesh, I must refer them to my novel of -<cite>Guavas the Tinner</cite>, in which I have described the -mode of life of the metal-seekers on the moor in the -time of Elizabeth.</p> - -<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_12_12" id="Footnote_12_12"></a><a href="#FNanchor_12_12"><span class="label">[12]</span></a> <cite>Archæologia</cite>, vol. lvi. part 2, 1899.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_13_13" id="Footnote_13_13"></a><a href="#FNanchor_13_13"><span class="label">[13]</span></a> <cite>Dartmoor Pictorial Records</cite>, 1893.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_14_14" id="Footnote_14_14"></a><a href="#FNanchor_14_14"><span class="label">[14]</span></a> <cite>Silva Gadhelica</cite>, ii. p. 271.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[Pg 124]</a></span></p></div></div> -<div class="chapter"></div> -<hr class="chap" /> - - - - -<h2>CHAPTER IX.<br /> - -LYDFORD</h2> - -<div class="hangindent"> - -<p>An out-of-the-world spot—The church dilapidated—The clerk—Situation -of Lydford—An early fortress—The church of S. Petrock—British -foundations—Monument of the watch-maker—The castle—A -prison—Mr. Radford—Will Huggins—Primitive gate-hinges—The -gorge—The waterfall—The Gubbins crew—Black Down—Entries -in the registers of Mary Tavy—Mary and Peter Tavy -churches—Bridestowe church—Bronescombe's Loaf and Cheese—Tavy -Cleave—Peat-works—Cross on Sourton Down.</p></div> - - -<p class="drop-capw"><span class="smcap">Fifty</span> years ago Lydford was one of the most -out-of-the-world and wild spots in England. -I had almost written God-forsaken, but checked my -pen, for God forsakes no place, though He may tarry -to bless. There were no resident gentry—there never -had been, as a glance at the registers reveals. There -was no resident rector—there had not been within -the memory of the oldest inhabitant. The rector -was a wealthy pluralist, rector of Southill and -Callington, in Cornwall, who hardly ever showed his -face in Lydford, the largest parish in England, and -maintained a poor curate there on a hundred pounds -a year in a miserable cottage.</p> - -<p>The people were a law to themselves, and had the -credit of being inveterate poachers.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> -<img src="images/p124.jpg" width="700" height="472" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p>ON THE LYD</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[Pg 125]</a></span></p> - -<p>The houses, thatched, built of moor-stones, not set -in mortar, were in a ruinous condition. The aspect -of the place was that of an Irish village. It was -dominated by a ruined castle, and possessed a church -fast lapsing to ruin, and was girt in by walls long -ago reduced to heaps. One Christmas Day the -curate went to the church for the celebration of the -Holy Communion, and found the altar covered with -snow that had blown in through the battered east -window and under the cracked slates of the roof.</p> - -<p>"I'll sweep it off," said the clerk.</p> - -<p>"On no account. God has spread His table," said -the curate; and he celebrated on the white sheet of -snow.</p> - -<p>In the cottage that served as parsonage it was not -much better. The curate had two rooms downstairs -and one above. One room was slate-paved. Upstairs -there was no ceiling, and he had occasionally -to spread his umbrella over his head and pillow when -he went to bed.</p> - -<p>Now all is changed, or changing.</p> - -<p>The church has been restored, and is a model of -what a church should be. The old parsonage has -been pulled down, and stables built on the site, and -the late Mr. Street, the architect, erected an absurd -Scottish castle with angle turrets and extinguisher -caps to serve as rectory. The ruinous houses are -being replaced by trim, if ugly, habitations. Only -the gaunt castle remains gutted.</p> - -<p>About fifty years ago the clerk was addicted to -lifting his elbow too freely, and came to church occasionally -in a hilarious condition. The climax was -reached at a funeral, when he tumbled into the grave -before the coffin, and apostrophised the dead man<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[Pg 126]</a></span> -as he scrambled out: "Beg parding, Ted; I bain't -minded to change places wi' you just yet."</p> - -<p>The curate was compelled to discharge him and -appoint another, Peter X.</p> - -<p>The old clerk refused to accept his dismissal, and -gathered his adherents, and on the ensuing Sunday -marched at their head to the house of God. Peter, -advised of this, summoned his supporters, and, -having the keys, ensconced himself early within the -sacred building, in the clerk's pew, surrounded by -his upholders. The rival party entered, and a battle -ensued between the factions. The curate absolutely -refused to perform the service to the clerking of the -dismissed official, and finally the latter and his gang -were ejected from the church, loudly professing that -they would all turn Dissenters.</p> - -<p>This Peter remained clerk for fifty years. He -obtained a subsidiary revenue by carrying children -afflicted with "the thrush" up the tower, and holding -them over the battlements at each pinnacle, whilst -he recited the Lord's Prayer. For this he received -a small gratuity.</p> - -<p>He was a most worthy man, and, as he is now -dead, I do not scruple to mention that the story I -have told in <cite>Furze Bloom</cite>, under the title of "Peter -Lempole," pertained to him. He never married, the -reason being that he had a childish old brother -entirely dependent on him. Peter was engaged to -a bright, pretty girl; but one day she said to him, -"When us is married, then, mind y', Peter, I'm not -going to have that silly brother of yourn in the -house with me." "Indeed!" was Peter's retort; "then -into my house <em>you</em> shall never come."</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[Pg 127]</a></span></p> - -<p>Lydford occupies a tongue of land between two -ravines, one cleft perpendicularly to a depth of -seventy feet, the other steep, but not sheer through -rock. The old line of fortifications, much degraded -by the plough, may be traced distinctly, nevertheless, -across the only portion of the headland by which -attack was possible. It is the sort of fortress which -goes by the name of cliff castle on the Cornish and -Welsh coasts.</p> - -<p>That it was a site chosen by the prehistoric population -is undoubted. Such a natural fortress could -not have been overlooked, and it was held since -remote times till the Normans came. Yet, notwithstanding -the position being almost impregnable, it -was taken, and the town of Lydford was burnt by -the Danes in 997 after they had destroyed the -Abbey of Tavistock. From Domesday it would -appear that at the Conquest Lydford was a walled -town. It sent burgesses to Parliament twice in the -reign of Edward I.</p> - -<p>The church is dedicated to S. Petrock, and at its -restoration some remains of the old British church -were discovered three feet below the pavement of the -present edifice. The slabs that had lain on the floor -of the original oratory were taken up and placed -within the doorway of the present church; so that -the worshippers may stand on the very stones on -which their ancestors stood in the sixth century. -That into the walls of the reconstructed church -most of the stones of the original edifice were incorporated, -is more than probable.</p> - -<p>There are several Petrock churches round the moor<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[Pg 128]</a></span>—Harford, -South Brent, Clannaborough; and probably -the original founder and patron of Buckfast -Abbey was this saint.</p> - -<p>The great distinction between British foundations -and those that were Roman was this: a British church -was called after its founder, whereas a Roman church -received its name from some scraps of dead bones -of a saint laid under the altar, or placed in it. -Unhappily, we have no record of S. Petrock's labours -in Devon, but there can exist little hesitation in -holding that he was an apostle of the district about -Dartmoor and of a tract north of it as well, as also -that he laboured and died in Cornwall.</p> - -<p>Here is what Bede tells us of the manner of consecration -among the Celts. It must be premised -that the historian is speaking of Cedd, Bishop of -the East Saxons from 653 to 664, to whom Oidilvald, -King of the Deisa, had given a piece of land. -Cedd had received his training from Celtic monks at -Iona.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>"This man of God, wishing by prayer and fasting to -purge the place of its former pollution of wickedness, and -so to lay the foundation of the monastery, entreated the -king that he would grant him the means and permission -to dwell there for that purpose, during the whole time -of Lent, which was then at hand. In all the days of this -time, except on Sundays, he fasted till the evening, according -to custom, and then took no other sustenance than -a little bread, one hen's egg, and a little milk mixed with -water. This, he said, was the custom of those of whom -he had learned the rule of regular discipline; first to -consecrate to our Lord, by prayer and fasting, the places<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[Pg 129]</a></span> -which they had newly received for building a monastery -or a church.</p> - -<p>"When there were ten days of Lent still remaining -there came a messenger to call him to the king, and he, -that the religious work might not be intermitted, on -account of the king's affairs, entreated his priest, Cynebil, -who was also his brother, to complete the work that had -been so piously begun. Cynebil readily complied, and -when the time of fasting and prayer was over he there -built the monastery, which is now called Lastingham."<a name="FNanchor_15_15" id="FNanchor_15_15"></a><a href="#Footnote_15_15" class="fnanchor">[15]</a></p></div> - -<p>The name Petrock is really Peterkin, the Celtic -diminutive of Peter, and it is probable that Peter -Tavy is another of his foundations, as well as certain -other churches now regarded as dedicated to the -great apostle.</p> - -<p>The Saxons, who were saturated with Latin ideas, -when they obtained supremacy, rededicated the -churches to saints of the Roman calendar, if they -were able to obtain from Italy some scraps of bone -that it was pretended had belonged to one of the -saints of the Latin calendar. But there is no evidence -that the British Christians did other than call -their churches after the names of the founders.</p> - -<p>Lydford church is of fifteenth-century Perpendicular, -but in the chancel is an earlier piscina, and -the font is possibly pre-Norman. The chancel screen -is gone, but the rood staircase remains.</p> - -<p>In the churchyard is the often-quoted epitaph of -George Routleigh:—</p> - -<div class="center"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">"Here lies in horizontal position<br /></span> -<span class="i6">the outside case of<br /></span> -<span class="i0">George Routleigh, watch-maker,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">whose abilities in that line were an honour<br /></span><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[Pg 130]</a></span> -<span class="i12">to his profession.<br /></span> -<span class="i6">Integrity was the main-spring<br /></span> -<span class="i8">and Prudence the regulator<br /></span> -<span class="i6">of all the actions of his life.<br /></span> -<span class="i6">Humane, generous and liberal<br /></span> -<span class="i8">his Hand never stopped<br /></span> -<span class="i6">till he had relieved distress.<br /></span> -<span class="i2">So nicely regulated were all his motions<br /></span> -<span class="i8">that he never went wrong,<br /></span> -<span class="i10">except when set agoing<br /></span> -<span class="i4">by people who did not know his key.<br /></span> -<span class="i2">Even then he was easily set right again.<br /></span> -<span class="i0">He had the art of disposing his time so well<br /></span> -<span class="i8">that his hours glided away<br /></span> -<span class="i10">in one continual round<br /></span> -<span class="i10">of pleasure and delight.<br /></span> -<span class="i6">Till an unlucky minute put a period to<br /></span> -<span class="i18">his existence.<br /></span> -<span class="i6">He departed this life Nov. 14, 1802,<br /></span> -<span class="i20">aged 57,<br /></span> -<span class="i20">wound up<br /></span> -<span class="i8">in hopes of being taken in hand<br /></span> -<span class="i18">by his Maker<br /></span> -<span class="i4">and of being thoroughly cleaned, repaired<br /></span> -<span class="i18">and set agoing<br /></span> -<span class="i14">in the World to Come."<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>In the churchyard may be noticed some altar -tombs of the type not infrequent round the moor.</p> - -<p>Due west of the church, across the graveyard -hedge, is a small camp, possibly British.</p> - -<p>The castle is planted on a tump, a natural elevation -artificially shaped, and is not particularly interesting. -It is square, and was built after the Conquest.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[Pg 131]</a></span> -By a charter of Edward I. it was constituted a -Stannary prison. Richard Strode, of Newnham Park, -one of the principal gentry of the county, moved in -Parliament to restrain the miners from discharging -their refuse into the rivers with the result of choking -up the harbours. The miners were so incensed -against him that they captured him in 1512, had -him summarily tried by their Stannary Laws, on -Crockern Tor, and threw him into Lydford gaol, -where he languished for some time, and it was with -considerable difficulty that his release was obtained.</p> - -<p>What with Forest Laws and Stannary Laws, -Lydford Castle rarely lacked tenants. Even in 1399 -Lydford law was held in bad repute, for Wright, in -his collection of political poems, prints some verses -of that date which speak of it as such; and William -Browne, in 1644, wrote on it:—</p> - -<div class="center"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">"I oft have heard of Lydford law,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">How in the morn they hang and draw,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">And sit in judgment after:<br /></span> -<span class="i0">At first I wondered at it much,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">But soon I found the matter such<br /></span> -<span class="i2">As it deserves no laughter.<br /></span> -</div><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">"They have a castle on a hill;<br /></span> -<span class="i0">I took it for some old wind-mill,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">The vanes blown off by weather.<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Than lie therein one night 'tis guessed<br /></span> -<span class="i0">'Twere better to be stoned or pressed<br /></span> -<span class="i2">Or hanged, ere you come thither."<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>And so on for sixteen verses.</p> - -<p>Below the castle is the water-gate where is the -only spring from which Lydford town was supplied<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">[Pg 132]</a></span> -till Mr. Radford brought drinking water into the -place.</p> - -<p>With Lydford the name of Daniel Radford will -be indissolubly connected—one of the noblest and -kindest of men, and one of the most modest. He -cut the way up the ravine by which the gorge was -made accessible. When I was a boy the only method -by which it could be explored was by swimming and -scrambling in summer, when the water was low. -Mr. Radford built Bridge House and restored the -church. It was due to him that I undertook, in -1888, to collect the folk-music in Devon and Cornwall; -and it is in Lydford churchyard that he lies, -awaiting the resurrection of the just. Not without -deep feeling can I pen these lines to commemorate -one of the best men whom it has been my happiness -to know.</p> - -<p>As I have mentioned the folk-music of Devon, -I may here add that one of my assistants was old -Will Huggins, of Lydford, a mason, who entered -enthusiastically into the work. I had an attack -of influenza in the winter of 1889-90, and had to -leave England for Italy. Before my departure Will -promised me to go about among his old cronies and -collect ancient ballads. Alas! he caught a chill; it -fell on his chest, and when I returned in the spring, -it was to learn that he was gone.</p> - -<div class="center"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">"I'm going, I reckon, full mellow<br /></span> -<span class="i2">To lay in the churchyard my head;<br /></span> -<span class="i0">So say, God be wi' you, old fellow,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">The last of the singers is dead."<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">[Pg 133]</a></span></p> -<p>In the village street may be noticed, built into the -hedge or wall, a piece of granite with a round hole -like a rock basin depressed in it. Actually it is one -of the stones of a gate-hinge.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> -<img src="images/p133.jpg" width="700" height="687" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p>A PRIMITIVE HINGE.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Formerly the gates around Dartmoor had no iron -hinges, but turned in sockets cut in granite blocks. -Few of these now remain in use, but the stones may -be noticed lying about in many places, and it is really -marvellous that the antiquaries of the past did not -suppose they were basins for sacrificial lustration.</p> - -<p>In 1880 the late Mr. Lukis was in Devon, planning -the rude stone monuments on Dartmoor for the Royal -Society of Antiquaries. He came on some of these -cuplike holes in stones, and carefully measured and -drew them. Happily, I was able to show a gate -swinging between two of these blocks, and so explain -to him their purpose.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">[Pg 134]</a></span></p> - -<p>The Lydford ravine is the finest of its kind in -England. A bridge crosses it, and it is worth while -looking over the parapet into the gulf below, through -which the river writhes and leaps. The gardens -of Bridge House are thrown open on Mondays, when -a visitor may descend and thread the gorge. But -decidedly the best way for him to see the beauties -of the Lyd valley, where most restricted and romantic, -is for him to descend at the waterfall, a pretty but not -grand slide of a lateral brook, and ascend the ravine -of the Lyd from thence; he will pass through the -gorge where finest, under the bridge, and pursue his -course till he comes out at a mill below the south -gate of Lydford. Hence a half-mile will take him to -Kitt's Steps, another fall, a leap of the Lyd into -a basin half choked with the rubbish from a mine. -The mine happily failed, but it has left its heaps in -the glen as a permanent disfigurement.</p> - -<p>Considerable caution must be exercised in ascending -the gorge, as the path is narrow, and in places -slippery. A schoolmistress was killed here a few -years ago. She turned to look at the sun glancing -through the leaves at the entrance of the chasm, -became giddy, and fell over. She was dead when her -body was recovered.</p> - -<p>Inhabiting the valley and lateral combes of the -Lyd, in the time of Charles I. and the Commonwealth, -was a race of men called the Gubbinses. -They were wild and lawless, and maintained themselves -by stealing sheep and cattle, and carrying them -into the labyrinth of glens where they could not be -traced.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">[Pg 135]</a></span></p> - -<p>Fuller, in his account of the wonders of the county -of Devon, includes the Gubbinses. He heard of them -during his stay in Exeter, 1644-7.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>"I have read of an England beyond Wales, but the -Gubbings land is a Scythia within England, and they be -pure heathens therein. It lyeth near Brenttor, in the edge -of Dartmore.... They are a peculiar of their own making, -exempt from Bishop, Archdeacon, and all Authority, either -ecclesiastical or civil. They live in cotts (rather holes than -houses) like swine, having all in common, multiplied, without -marriage, into many hundreds. Their language is the -drosse of the dregs of the vulgar Devonian; and the more -learned a man is, the worse he can understand them. Their -wealth consists in other men's goods, and they live by -stealing the sheep on the More, and vain it is for any to -search their Houses, being a Work beneath the pains of a -Sheriff, and above the powers of any constable. Such -their fleetness, they will out-run many horses: vivaciousnesse, -they outlive most men, living in the ignorance of -luxury, the Extinguisher of Life, they hold together like -Burrs, offend One, and All will revenge his quarrel."</p></div> - -<p>William Browne speaks of them as near Lydford:—</p> - -<div class="center"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">"And near thereto's the Gubbins' cave,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">A people that no knowledge have<br /></span> -<span class="i4">Of law, of God, or men;<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Whom Cæsar never yet subdued;<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Who've lawless liv'd; of manners rude;<br /></span> -<span class="i4">All savage in their den.<br /></span> -</div><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">"By whom, if any pass that way,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">He dares not the least time to stay,<br /></span> -<span class="i4">But presently they howl;<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Upon which signal they do muster<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Their naked forces in a cluster,<br /></span> -<span class="i4">Led forth by Roger Rowle."<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">[Pg 136]</a></span></p> -<p>It cannot be said that the race is altogether extinct. -The magistrates have had much trouble with certain -persons living in hovels on the outskirts of the moor, -who subsist in the same manner. They carry off -lambs and young horses before they are marked, and -when it is difficult, not to say impossible, for the -owners to identify them. Their own ewes always -have doubles.</p> - -<p>In the West Okement valley, in a solitary spot, -are the foundations of a cottage in which for many -years a man lived, preying upon the flocks and cattle -on the moor, and carrying on his depredations with -such cunning that he was never caught. It was -shrewdly suspected that he was in league with a -number of small farmers, and that he was by this -means able to pass on his captures and ensure their -concealment.</p> - -<p>Black Down is an extensive ridge of moorland -traversed by the high road from Okehampton to -Tavistock. The highest point is called Gibbet Hill, -but tradition is silent as to who hung there.</p> - -<p>In the Mary Tavy register occurs this entry:—</p> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>"1691, March 12, William Warden, a currier, was -whipped by the Parson and Churchwardens of Whitchurch, -and ordered to be passed on as a wandering rogue -from parish to parish, by the officers therein, in 26 days -to his native place, Cheshunt in Hertfordshire, and as the -Churchwardens were conveying him on horseback over -Black Down, he died on the back of the horse, and was -buried the same night."</p></div> - -<p>The parson of Whitchurch was a Mr. Polwhele, -who was also justice of peace.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">[Pg 137]</a></span></p> - -<p>Here is another curious entry in the same book -of registers:—</p> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>"1756, Sept. 12, Robert Elford, was baptized, the child -of Susanna Elford by her sister's husband, to whom she -was married with the consent of her sister, the wife, who -was at the wedding."</p></div> - -<p>Here the union is not with a <em>deceased</em> wife's sister, -but the living wife's sister. There is no entry relative -to this marriage, so that the pair must have got their -unhallowed union blessed in some remote parish, -where the relationship was not known.</p> - -<p>In 1760 William Creedy, sojourner, and Susanna -Elford had their banns called, but there is no entry -of a marriage.</p> - -<p>Another entry in the same register book is suggestive -of a scandal.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>"1627, Aug. 5, Baptized, Nicolas filius Mri. Johan. -Cake jam senio confecti."</p></div> - -<p>Mary Tavy church, picturesquely situated, not on -the Tavy, but on a little confluent, was barbarously -renovated some years ago, but of late much loving -care has been bestowed upon the structure, and something -has been done to efface the mischief wrought -by the architect who had dealt with it previously. -The new screen is remarkably good, and in accordance -with Devonshire work of the sixteenth century. -The stained glass is excellent.</p> - -<p>Peter Tavy church was disfigured rather later -than Mary Tavy. It possessed an interesting Tudor -square pew, richly carved, and with posts at the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">[Pg 138]</a></span> -corners supporting heraldic beasts. This was demolished -at the so-called restoration. Some scraps -have been preserved and worked up to form a screen -across the tower arch. All the modern work is of -the vulgarest description, in yellow deal. A portion -of the screen with saints painted on it is preserved -within the altar rails.</p> - -<p>Peter Tavy Combe must on no account be -neglected; it is a remarkably picturesque valley.</p> - -<p>Another church that may be visited from Lydford -is Bridestowe, dedicated to S. Bridget, who had a -sanctuary of refuge here, now called the Sentry. -The original church stood in a different position, -and contained the Norman arch now erected at the -entrance to the church avenue. It was turned into -a church-house, then became ruinous and was pulled -down. The reason for the removal of the parish -church in the fifteenth century was probably because -the old church was near the road at a turn, so that -there was not space available to enlarge it.</p> - -<p>This church has suffered from maltreatment by -a late rector, who tore down the old roodscreen, -sawed it down the middle, and plastered the tracery -so treated against a deal dwarf screen, <em>inverted</em>, -and against a vestry door. To make matters worse, -he boarded the entire interior of the chancel with -deal, varnished. It presented the appearance of a -cabin of a ship. This has now happily disappeared. -It is greatly to be desired that the screen should -be restored.</p> - -<p>Second to the Dart only in beauty is the West -Okement that comes foaming down from the bogs<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">[Pg 139]</a></span> -about Cranmere through a fine ravine between Yes -Tor and Amicombe Hill. If the river be followed -up from Meldon Viaduct, a point is reached where it -rushes over a barrier of rocks fallen from Black Tor, -and divides about an islet. But perhaps the best way -to see this valley is to ascend a combe, crossed at the -foot by the Lake Viaduct, and follow a track that -sweeps round Sourton Tor, and ascend to Bronescombe's -Loaf and Cheese, where is a fine cairn. -On the slope between Sourton Tor and Bronescombe's -Loaf lies a large slab of granite through -which a dyke of elvan has been thrust. In this -elvan have been cut the moulds for two bronze -axe-heads.</p> - -<p>Walter Bronescombe was Bishop of Exeter between -1258 and 1280, and he lies buried in the Cathedral -under a fine canopied tomb. The effigy is of his own -date, and gives apparently a true portrait of a worthy -prelate.</p> - -<p>One day he was visiting this portion of his diocese, -and had ventured to ride over the moor from Widdecombe. -He and his retinue had laboured through -bogs, and almost despaired of reaching the confines -of the wilderness. Moreover, on attaining Amicombe -Hill they knew not which way to take, for the -bogs there are nasty; and his attendants dispersed -to seek a way. The Bishop was overcome with -fatigue, and was starving. He turned to his chaplain -and said, "Our Master in the wilderness was offered -by Satan bread made of stones. If he were now to -make the same offer to me, I doubt if I should have -the Christian fortitude to refuse."</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[Pg 140]</a></span></p> - -<p>"Ah!" sighed the chaplain, "and a hunch of cheese -as well!"</p> - -<p>"Bread and cheese I could not hold out against," -said the Bishop.</p> - -<p>Hardly had he spoken before a moorman rose up -from a peat dyke and drew nigh; he had a wallet -on his back.</p> - -<p>"Master!" called the chaplain, "dost thou chance -to have a snack of meat with thee?"</p> - -<p>"Ay, verily," replied the moorman, and approached, -hobbling, for he was apparently lame. "I have with -me bread and cheese, naught else."</p> - -<p>"Give it us, my son," said the Bishop; "I will well -repay thee."</p> - -<p>"Nay," replied the stranger, "I be no son of thine. -And I ask no reward save that thou descend from -thy steed, doff thy cap, and salute me with the title -of master."</p> - -<p>"I will do that," said the Bishop, and alighted.</p> - -<p>Then the strange man produced a loaf and a large -piece of cheese.</p> - -<p>Now, the Bishop was about to take off his cap and -address the moorman in a tone of entreaty and by -the title of master, when the chaplain perceived that -the man had one foot like that of a goat. He -instantly cried out to God, and signified what he -saw to the prelate, who, in holy horror, made the -sign of the cross, and lo! the moorman vanished, -and the bread and cheese remained transformed -to stone.</p> - -<p>Do you doubt it? Go and see. Look on the -Ordnance Survey map and you will find Bread -and Cheese marked there. Only Bronescombe's -name has been transformed to Brandescombe.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> -<img src="images/p141.jpg" width="700" height="477" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p>HARE TOR</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">[Pg 141]</a></span></p> - -<p>But the Bishop, to make atonement, and to -ease his conscience for having so nearly yielded -to temptation, spent great sums on the rebuilding -of his cathedral.</p> - -<p>From the Bread and Cheese, a walk along the -brow of the hill by the Slipper Stones—so called -because there Bishop Bronescombe dropped one -of the coverings of his feet—shows the valley to -perfection, with Black Tor rising above it, and Yes -Tor towering high aloft in the rear. By the stream -below is a stunted copse, a relic of the ancient arms -of forest that stole up the ravines far into the moor, -but of which now hardly any remain. At Stinga -Tor, further up, is a fine logan rock. The visitor -may return by the peat-works and the noble pile of -Lynx Tor to the valley of the Lyd.</p> - -<p>An interesting excursion may be made to Tavy -Cleave. The course to be adopted, so as to see it in -perfection, is to go on to the moor from the Dartmoor -Inn. Here in its proper season, August to October, -the field gentian, with its dull purple flowers, may be -gathered. A descent to the Lyd by some old mine -works opens a fine view of Lynx, Hare, and Doe -Tors, and the little farm named after the latter lies -before one, solitary in the midst of heather and -swamp. Stepping-stones allow the river to be -crossed, and the farm is reached and passed, and -Hare Tor is aimed at. Old stream-works and prospecting -pits abound. By leaving the summit of -Hare Tor on the left, a cluster of rocks rising above<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">[Pg 142]</a></span> -the grass and heather must be struck at, and suddenly -before the eye opens the ravine of the Tavy, that -foams far below over a bar of red granite.</p> - -<p>Between the rocks and Ger Tor is a cluster of hut -circles in tolerable preservation, and a very interesting -collection is found on a spur of Stannon, on the further -side of the Tavy.</p> - -<p>Lynx Tor may be ascended from Lydford. The -summit is occupied by a fine mass of rocks, and -commands a superb view as far as the Atlantic in -one direction, and Plymouth Sound and the Channel -in another.</p> - -<p>Near Lynx Tor are the peat-works already -mentioned. Various attempts have been made to -find for the peat a use that may prove commercially -successful, but hitherto these attempts have not been -satisfactory to investors. The bogs are hungry, and -swallow up a good deal of money.</p> - -<p>Hence a short diversion will take to the logan -rock on Stinga Tor.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> -<img src="images/p142.jpg" width="700" height="334" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p>INSCRIPTION ON SOURTON CROSS.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>On Sourton Down stands an old granite cross that<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">[Pg 143]</a></span> -bears an inscription only to be read when the sun -is setting and casts its rays aslant over the face. -Apparently the monolith was shaped into a Latin -cross at some period later than the inscription, which -belongs to the sixth century. It is headed by the -early Christian symbol of the ☧ but badly made. -The same symbol occurs on the inscribed stone at -Southill. The granite is of a very coarse texture, -especially where the figure occurs and at the beginning -of the name.</p> - -<p>As for every person, so for every place, a time -comes if waited for. It has come for Lydford, burnt -by Danes, deserted in the Middle Ages, abandoned -by its rectors.</p> - -<div class="center"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">"At six o'clock I came along<br /></span> -<span class="i0">And prayed for those that were to stay<br /></span> -<span class="i2">Within a place so arrant;<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Wide and ope the winds so roar,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">By God's grace I'll come there no more<br /></span> -<span class="i2">Till forc'd by a tin warrant."<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>So wrote Browne in the seventeenth century.</p> - -<p>But the time has arrived for Lydford at last, and -now in summer it is hardly possible for a visitor to -obtain lodgings, unless he has written to secure them -months before, so greatly does Lydford attract to it -those who have eyes to see beautiful scenery and -hearts to appreciate it.</p> - -<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_15_15" id="Footnote_15_15"></a><a href="#FNanchor_15_15"><span class="label">[15]</span></a> <cite>Hist. Eccl.</cite>, iii. c. 23.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">[Pg 144]</a></span></p></div></div> -<div class="chapter"></div> -<hr class="chap" /> - - - - -<h2>CHAPTER X.<br /> - -BELSTONE</h2> - -<div class="hangindent"> - -<p>Derivation of the name—Phoenicians—Taw Marsh—Artillery practice -on the moors—Encroachments—The East Okement—Pounds and -hut circles—Stone rows on Cosdon—Cranmere Pool—Sticklepath—Christian -inscribed stones—South Zeal—West Wyke—North -Wyke—The wicked Richard Weekes—South Tawton church—The -West Okement—Yes Tor—Camp and Roman road—Throwleigh.</p></div> - - -<p class="drop-capw"><span class="smcap">A good</span> deal of pseudo-antiquarianism has been -expressed relative to the name of a little moorland -parish two and a half miles uphill from Okehampton. -It is now called Belstone, and it has been -surmised that here stood a stone dedicated to Baal, -whose worship had been introduced by the Phœnicians.</p> - -<p>I must really quote one of the finest specimens -of "exquisite fooling" I have ever come across. It -appeared as a sub-article in the <cite>Western Morning -News</cite> in 1890.</p> - -<p>It was headed:—</p> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p class="center">"<span class="smcap">Phœnicians in Dart Vale.</span></p> - -<p class="center">"[SPECIAL.] -</p> - -<p>"Much interest, not only local but world-wide, was -aroused a few months back by the announcement of a -Phœnician survival at Ipplepen, in the person of Mr. -Thomas Ballhatchet, descendant of the priest of the Sun<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">[Pg 145]</a></span> -Temple there, and until lately owner of the plot of land -called Baalford, under Baal Tor, a priestly patrimony, -which had come down to him through some eighteen -or twenty centuries, together with his name and his marked -Levantine features and characteristics.</p> - -<p>"Such survivals are not infrequent among Orientals, as, -for instance, the Cohens, Aaron's family, the Bengal Brahmins, -the Rechabites, etc. Ballhatchet's sole peculiarity is -his holding on to the land, in which, however, he is kept -in countenance in England by the Purkises, who drew the -body of Rufus to its grave in Winchester Cathedral on -2nd August, 1100.</p> - -<p>"Further quiet research makes it clear beyond all manner -of doubt that the Phœnician tin colony, domiciled at -Totnes, and whose Sun Temple was located on their eastern -sky-line at Ipplepen, have left extensive traces of their -presence all the way down the Dart in the identical and -unaltered names of places, a test of which the Palestine -Exploration Committee record the priceless value. To give -but one instance. The beautiful light-refracting diadem -which makes Belliver<a name="FNanchor_16_16" id="FNanchor_16_16"></a><a href="#Footnote_16_16" class="fnanchor">[16]</a> the most striking of all her sister -tors, received from the Semite its consecration as 'Baallivyah,' -Baal, crown of beauty or glory. The word itself -occurs in Proverbs i. 9 and iv. 9, and as both Septuagint -and Vulgate so render it, it must have borne that meaning -in the third century <span class="smcap">B.C.</span>, and in the third century <span class="smcap">A.D.</span>, and, -of course, in the interval. There are many other instances -quite as close, and any student of the new and fascinating -science of Assyriology will continually add to them. A -portrait of Ballhatchet, with some notes by an eminent and -well-known Semitic scholar, may probably appear in the -<cite>Graphic</cite>; in the meantime it may be pointed out that his -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">[Pg 146]</a></span>name is typically Babylonian. Not only is there at Pantellaria -the gravestone of one Baal-yachi (Baal's beloved), but -no less than three clay tablets from the Sun Temple of -Sippara (the Bible Sepharvaim) bear the names of Baal-achi-iddin, -Baal-achi-utsur, and Baal-achi-irriba. This last, -which bears date 22 Sivan (in the eleventh year of Nabonidus, -<span class="smcap">B.C.</span> 540), just two years before the catastrophe which -followed on Belshazzar's feast, is in the possession of Mr. -W. G. Thorpe, <span class="smcap">F.S.A.</span> It is in beautiful condition, and -records a loan by one Dinkiva to Baal-achi-irriba (Baal will -protect his brother), on the security of some slaves."</p></div> - -<p>One really wonders in reading such nonsense as -this whether modern education is worth much, when -a man could write such trash and an editor could -admit it into his paper.</p> - -<p>Ballhatchet means the hatchet or gate to a ball, -<em>i.e.</em> a mine.</p> - -<p>As it happens, there is not a particle of trustworthy -evidence that the Phœnicians ever traded directly -with Cornwall and Devon. The intermediary traders -were the Veneti of what is now Vannes, and the tin -trade was carried through Gaul to Marseilles, as is -shown by traces left on the old trade route. In the -next place, there is no evidence that our British -or Ivernian ancestors ever heard the name of Baal. -And finally, Belstone is not named after a stone at -all, to return to the point whence we started. In -Domesday it is Bellestham, or the <em>ham</em>, meadow of -Belles or Bioll, a Saxon name that remains among -us as Beale.</p> - -<p>Belstone is situated at the lip of Taw Marsh, once -a fine lake, with Steeperton Tor rising above it at<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">[Pg 147]</a></span> -the head. Partly because the river has fretted a -way through the joints of the granite, forming Belstone -Cleave, and partly on account of the silting up -of the lake-bed with rubble brought down by the -several streams that here unite, the lake-bed is now -filled up with sand and gravel and swamp.</p> - -<p>The military authorities coveted this tract for -artillery practice. They set up butts, but woman -intervened. A very determined lady marched up to -them, although the warning red flags fluttered, and -planted herself in front of a target, took out of her -reticule a packet of ham sandwiches and a flask of -cold tea, and declared her intention of spending the -day there. In vain did the military protest, entreat, -remonstrate; she proceeded to nibble at her sandwiches -and defied them to fire.</p> - -<p>She carried the day.</p> - -<p>Since then Taw Marsh has been the playfield of -many children, and has been rambled over by -visitors, but the artillery have abstained from practising -on it.</p> - -<p>The fact is that the military have made the moors -about Okehampton impossible for the visitor, and -those who desire to rove over it in pursuit of health -have been driven from Okehampton to Belstone, and -object to be moved on further.</p> - -<p>What with the camp at Okehampton and the -prisons at Princetown and encroachments on every -side, the amount of moorland left open to the rambler -is greatly curtailed.</p> - -<p>The privation is not only felt by the visitor but -also by the farmer, who has a right to send out<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">[Pg 148]</a></span> -his sheep and cattle upon the moor in summer, and -in times of drought looks to this upland as his -salvation.</p> - -<p>A comparison between what the Forest of Dartmoor -was at the beginning of this century and its -condition to-day shows how inclosures have crept -on—nay, not crept, increased by leaps; and what -is true of the forest is true also of the commons -that surround it. Add to the inclosed land the large -tract swept by the guns at Okehampton, and the -case becomes more grave still. The public have -been robbed of their rights wholesale. Not a word -can now be raised against the military. The Transvaal -War has brought home to us the need we have -to become expert marksmen, and the Forest of -Dartmoor seems to offer itself for the purpose of -a practising-ground. Nevertheless, one accepts the -situation with a sigh.</p> - -<p>There is a charming excursion up the East Okement -from the railway bridge to Cullever Steps, -passing on the way a little fall of the river, not -remarkable for height but for picturesqueness. There -is no path, and the excursion demands exertion.</p> - -<p>On Belstone Common is a stone circle and near it -a fallen menhir. The circle is merely one of stones -that formed a hut, which had upright slabs lining -it within as well as girdling without.</p> - -<p>Under Belstone Tor, among the "old men's workings" -by the Taw, an experienced eye will detect -a blowing-house, but it is much dilapidated.</p> - -<p>The Taw and an affluent pour down from the -central bog, one on each side of Steeperton Tor,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">[Pg 149]</a></span> -and from the east the small brook dances into Taw -Marsh. Beside the latter, on the slopes, are numerous -pounds and hut circles, and near its source is -a stone circle, of which the best uprights have -been carried off for gateposts. South of it is a -menhir, the Whitmoor Stone, leaning, as the -ground about it is marshy. Cosdon, or, as it is -incorrectly called occasionally, Cawsand, is a huge -rounded hill ascending to 1,785 feet, crowned with -dilapidated cairns and ruined kistvaens. East of the -summit, near the turf track from South Zeal, is a -cairn that contained three kistvaens. One is perfect, -one wrecked, and of the third only the space remained -and indications whence the slabs had been -torn. From these three kistvaens in one mound -start three stone rows that are broken through by -the track, but can be traced beyond it for some -way; they have been robbed, as the householders of -South Zeal have been of late freely inclosing large -tracts of their common, and have taken the stones -for the construction of walls about their fields.</p> - -<p>By ascending the Taw, Cranmere Pool may be -reached, but is only so far worth the visit that the -walk to and from it gives a good insight into the -nature of the central bogs. The pool is hardly more -than a puddle. Belstone church is not interesting; -it was rebuilt, all but the tower, in 1881.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">[Pg 150]</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 518px;"> -<img src="images/p150.jpg" width="518" height="700" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p>INSCRIBED STONE, STICKLEPATH.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Under Cosdon nestles Sticklepath. "Stickle" is the -Devonshire for steep. Here is a holy well near an -inscribed stone. A second inscribed stone is by the -roadside to Okehampton. At Belstone are two more, -but none of these bear names. They are Christian -monuments of the sixth, or at latest seventh, -century. At Sticklepath was a curious old cob -thatched chapel, but this has been unnecessarily -destroyed, and a modern erection of no interest or -beauty has taken its place. South Zeal is an interesting -little village, through which ran the old -high-road, but which is now left on one side. For -long it was a treasury of interesting old houses; -many have disappeared recently, but the "Oxenham -Arms," the seat of the Burgoyne family, remains, -the fine old village cross, and the chapel, of granite.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">[Pg 151]</a></span> -Above South Zeal, on West Wyke Moor, is the -house that belonged to the Battishill family, with -a ruined cross near it. The house has been much -spoiled of late; the stone mullions have been removed -from the hall window, but the ancient gateway, -surmounted by the Battishill arms, and with -the date 1656, remains untouched. It is curious, -because one would hardly have expected a country -gentleman to have erected an embattled gateway -during the Commonwealth, and in the style of the -early Tudor kings. In the hall window are the -arms of Battishill, impaled with a coat that cannot -be determined as belonging to any known -family. In the same parish of South Tawton is -another old house, North Wyke, that belonged to -the Wyke or Weekes family. The ancient gatehouse -and chapel are interesting; they belong, in -my opinion, to the sixteenth century, and to the -latter part of the same. The chapel has a corbel, -the arms of Wykes and Gifford; and John Wyke -of North Wyke, who was buried in 1591, married -the daughter of Sir Roger Gifford. The gateway -can hardly be earlier. The house was built by the -same man, but underwent great alteration in the -fashion introduced from France by Charles II., when -the rooms were raised and the windows altered into -<em>croisées</em>.</p> - -<p>Touching this house a tale is told.</p> - -<p>About the year 1660 there was a John Weekes -of North Wyke, who was a bachelor, and lived in -the old mansion along with his sister Katherine, -who was unmarried, and his mother. He was a man<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">[Pg 152]</a></span> -of weak intellect, and was consumptive. John came -of age in 1658. In the event of his death without -will his heir would be his uncle John, his father's -brother, who died in 1680. This latter John had -a son Roger.</p> - -<p>Now it happened that there was a great scamp -of the name of Richard Weekes, born at Hatherleigh, -son of Francis Weekes of Honeychurch, possibly a -remote connection, but not demonstrably so.</p> - -<p>He was a gentleman pensioner of Charles II., but -spent most of his leisure time in the Fleet Prison. -One day this rascal came down from London, it -is probable at the suggestion of consumptive John's -mother and sister, who could not be sure what he, -with his feeble mind, might do with the estate.</p> - -<p>Richard ingratiated himself into the favour of -John, and urged him not to risk his health in so -bleak and exposed a spot as South Tawton, but -to seek a warmer climate, and he invited him to -Plymouth. The unsuspicious John assented.</p> - -<p>When John was cajoled to Plymouth, Richard -surrounded him with creatures of his own, a doctor -and two lawyers, who, with Richard's assistance, -coaxed, bullied, and persuaded the sickly John into -making a deed of settlement of all his estate in -favour of Richard. The unhappy man did this, but -with a curious proviso enabling him to revoke his -act by word as well as by deed. Richard had now -completely outwitted John's mother and sister, who -had been conspirators with him, on the understanding -that they were to share the spoils.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 563px;"> -<img src="images/p152.jpg" width="563" height="700" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p>NORTH WYKE GATE HOUSE</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">[Pg 153]</a></span></p> - -<p>After a while, when it was clear that John was -dying, Richard hurried him back to North Wyke, -where he expired on Saturday, September 21st, -1661, but not till he had been induced by his mother -and sister to revoke his will verbally, for they had -now learned how that the wily Richard had got the -better of them.</p> - -<p>Next day, Sunday, Richard Weekes arrived, -booted and spurred, at the head of a party of men -he had collected. With sword drawn he burst into -the house, and when Katherine Weekes attempted to -bar the way he knocked her down. Then he drove -the widow mother into a closet and locked the door -on her. He now cleared the house of the servants, -and proceeded to take possession of all the documents -and valuables that the mansion contained. Poor -John's body lay upstairs: no regard was paid to -that, and, saying "I am come to do the devil's work -and my own," he drove Katherine out of the house, -and she was constrained to take refuge for the night -in a neighbouring farm. The widow, Mary Weekes, -was then liberated and also turned out of doors.</p> - -<p>The heir-at-law was the uncle John, against whom -Mary and Katherine Weekes had conspired with the -scoundrel Richard. This latter now sought Uncle -John, made him drunk, and got him to sign a deed, -when tipsy, conveying all his rights to the said -Richard for the sum of fifty pounds paid down. -Richard was now in possession. The widow thereupon -brought an action in Chancery against Richard. -The lawyers saw the opportunity. Here was a noble -estate that might be sucked dry, and they descended -on it with this end in view.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">[Pg 154]</a></span></p> - -<p>The lawsuit was protracted for forty years, from -1661 to 1701, when the heirs of the wicked Richard -retained the property, but it had been so exhausted -and burdened, that the suit was abandoned undecided. -Richard Weekes died in 1670.</p> - -<p>The plan resorted to in order to keep possession -after the forcible entry was this. The son of Richard -Weekes had married a Northmore of Well, in South -Tawton, and the Northmores bought up all the -debts on the estate and got possession of the mortgages, -and worked them persistently and successfully -against the rightful claimants till, worried and -wearied out, and with empty purses, they were -unable further to pursue the claim. In 1713 the -estate was sold by John Weekes, the grandson of -Richard, who had also married a Northmore, and -North Wyke passed away from the family after -having been in its possession since the reign of -Henry III.</p> - -<p>It was broken up into two farms, and the house -divided into two. Recently it has, however, been -repurchased by a descendant of the original possessors, -in a female line, the Rev. W. Wykes Finch, and the -house is being restored in excellent taste.</p> - -<p>In South Tawton church is a fine monument of -the common ancestor, John Wyke, 1591. The church -has been renovated, monumental slabs sawn in half -and used to line the drain round the church externally. -With the exception of the sun-dial, bearing -the motto from Juvenal, "<i lang="la">Obrepet non intellecta -senectus</i>," and a Burgoyne monument and that of -"Warrior Wyke," the church does not present much<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">[Pg 155]</a></span> -of interest at present, whatever it may have done -before it fell into the hands of spoilers.</p> - -<p>The West Okement comes down from the central -bogs through a fine "Valley of Rocks," dividing and -forming an islet overgrown with wild rose and whortleberry. -Above it stands Shilstone Tor, telling by its -name that on it at one time stood a cromlech, which -has been destroyed. This valley furnishes many -studies for the artist.</p> - -<p>Hence Yes Tor may be ascended, for long held -to be the highest elevation on Dartmoor. The -highest peak it is, rising to 2,030 feet, but it is over-topped -by the rounded High Willhayes, 2,039 feet. -Between Yes Tor and Mill Tor is a rather nasty bog. -Mill Tor consists of a peculiar granite; the feldspar -is so pure that speculators have been induced to -attempt to make soda-water bottles out of it, by -fusing without the adjunct of other materials.</p> - -<p>On the extreme edge of a ridge above the East -Okement, opposite Belstone Tor, is a camp, much -injured by the plough. Apparently from it leads -a paved raised causeway or road, presumed to be -Roman; but why such a road should have been made -from a precipitous headland above the Okement, and -whither it led, are shrouded in mystery. Near this -road, in 1897, was found a hoard of the smallest -Roman coins, probably the store of some beggar, -which he concealed under a rock, and died without -being able to recover it. All pertained to the years -between <span class="smcap">A.D.</span> 320 and 330.</p> - -<p>Of Okehampton I will say nothing here, as the -place has had a chapter devoted to it in my <em>Book of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">[Pg 156]</a></span> -the West</em>—too much space, some might say, for in -itself it is devoid of interest. Its charm is in the -scenery round, and its great attraction during the -summer is the artillery camp on the down above -Okehampton Park. On the other side of Belstone, -Throwleigh may be visited, where there are numerous -prehistoric relics. There were many others, but they -have been destroyed, amongst others a fine inclosure -like Grimspound, but more perfect, as the inclosing -wall was not ruinous throughout, and the stones were -laid in courses. The pulpit of Throwleigh church is -made up of old bench-ends.</p> - -<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_16_16" id="Footnote_16_16"></a><a href="#FNanchor_16_16"><span class="label">[16]</span></a> Belliver is a modern contraction of Bellaford, as Redever is -Redaford.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">[Pg 157]</a></span></p></div></div> -<div class="chapter"></div> -<hr class="chap" /> - - - - -<h2>CHAPTER XI.<br /> - -CHAGFORD</h2> - -<div class="hangindent"> - -<p>"Chagford in the dirt"—The making of Chagford—The old clerk—The -church—Tincombe Lane—Chagford Common—Flint finds—Scaur -Hill circle—Stone rows—The Tolmen—The Teign river—Camps -on it—Drewsteignton cromlech—Gidleigh—Old farmhouses—Fernworthy—The -Grey Wethers—Teignhead House—Browne's -House—Story about it—Grimspound—Birch Tor stone rows—Chaw -Gully—The Webburn.</p></div> - - -<p class="drop-capw"><span class="smcap">Chagford</span> is in Domesday written Chageford, -and this is the local pronunciation of the name -at the present day. The natives say "Chageford in -the dirt—O good Lord!"</p> - -<p>But Chagford has had the ability and promptitude -to get out of the dirt and prove itself to be anything -but a stick-in-the-mud place. It is with places as -with people, some have good luck fall to them, others -make their fortunes for themselves. Okehampton -belongs to the former class, Chagford to the latter. -It owes almost everything to a late rector, who, resolved -on pushing the place, invited down magazine -editors and professional <em>littérateurs</em>, entertained them, -drove them about, and was rewarded by articles -appearing in journals and serials, be-lauding Chagford -for its salubrious climate, its incomparable scenery, -its ready hospitality, its rural sweetness, and its -archæological interest.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">[Pg 158]</a></span></p> - -<p>Whither the writers pointed with their pens, thither -the public ran, and Chagford was made. It has now -every appliance suitable—pure water, electric lighting, -telephone, a bicycle shop, and doctors to patch -broken heads and set broken limbs of those upset -from the "bikes."</p> - -<p>Chagford is undoubtedly a picturesque and pleasant -spot. It is situated near Dartmoor, and is sheltered -from the cold and from the rainy drift that comes -from the south-west. The lodging-house keepers -know how to make visitors comfortable, and to -charge for so doing. The church has been restored, -coaches run to bring visitors, and the roads and lanes -have been widened.</p> - -<p>I recall the church before modern ideas had penetrated -to Chagford. At that time the clerk, who -also led the orchestra, gave out the psalm from his -seat under the reading-desk, then, <em>whistling</em> the tune, -he marched slowly down the nave, ascended to the -gallery with leisure, and the performance began.</p> - -<p>The church, dedicated to S. Michael, was rebuilt -in the middle of the fifteenth century, when the -Gorges family owned much land in the parish. -Their cognisance, the <em>whirlpool</em>, a canting cognisance -(<em>gurges</em>), appears in the bosses of the roof. It contains -two monuments of some importance: one is -a handsome stone altar tomb, with a canopy supported -on columns, in memory of Sir John Whiddon, -of Whiddon Park, Judge of Queen's Bench, who -died in 1575; the other is to commemorate John -Prouze, who died in 1664.</p> - -<p>The Three Crowns Inn, opposite the church, is a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">[Pg 159]</a></span> -picturesque building of the seventeenth century. -Chagford was one of the Stannary towns, but no -remains of the court-house exist.</p> - -<p>On Mattadon, above the town, stands a rude early -cross of granite.</p> - -<p>The ascent to the moor by Tincombe Lane, as -I remember it half a century ago, was no better than -a watercourse, strewn with boulders, to be scrambled -up or down at the risk of dislocation of the ankle. -It then well merited the descriptive lines:—</p> - -<div class="center"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">"Tincombe Lane is all uphill<br /></span> -<span class="i2">Or downhill, as you take it;<br /></span> -<span class="i0">You tumble up, and crack your crown,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">Or tumble down and break it.<br /></span> -</div><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">"Tincombe Lane is crook'd and straight,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">Here pothook, there as arrow,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">'Tis smooth to foot, 'tis full of rut,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">'Tis wide, and then, 'tis narrow.<br /></span> -</div><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">"Tincombe Lane is just like life,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">From when you leave your mother;<br /></span> -<span class="i0">'Tis sometimes this, 'tis sometimes that,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">'Tis one thing or the other."<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>Now all is changed. A steam-roller goes up and -down Tincombe Lane, the angles have been rounded, -the precipitous portions made easy, the ruts filled up. -And life likewise is now made easy for the rising -generation—possibly too easy. Ruggedness had a -charm of its own, and bred vigour of constitution -and moral physique.</p> - -<p>Chagford having lost, by death, the whistling clerk, -started a blind organist. Now, also, he is gone.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">[Pg 160]</a></span> -Every peculiarity is being crushed out of modern life -by the steam-roller, civilisation.</p> - -<p>Chagford Common, as I recall it, half a century -ago, was strewn thick with hut circles. One ascended -to it by Tincombe Lane and came into a prehistoric -world, a Pompeii of a past before Rome was. It was -dense with hut circles, pounds, and every sort of relic -of the ancient inhabitants of the moor. But inclosures -have been made, and but a very few relics -of the aboriginal settlement remain. One of the -most curious, the "Roundy Pound," only escaped -through urgent remonstrance made to spare it. The -road carried over the common annually eats up the -remains of old, as the road-menders take away the -stones from the hut circles to metal the highway.</p> - -<p>At Batworthy, one of the inclosures, there must -have been anciently a manufactory of flint tools and -weapons. Countless spalls of flint and a fine collection -of fabricated weapons and tools have been found -there, and the collection has been presented from this -place to the Plymouth Municipal Museum.</p> - -<p>On Gidleigh Common, beside the Teign, opposite -Batworthy, is Scaur Hill circle. It consists of thirty-two -stones, at present, of which eight are prostrate. -The highest of the stones is a little over six feet. -The circle is ninety-two feet in diameter. Apparently -leading towards this ring, on the Chagford side of -the river, was a very long double row of stones, with -a second double row or avenue branching from it.</p> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">[Pg 161]</a></span></p> -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> -<img src="images/p160.jpg" width="700" height="324" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p>PLAN OF STONE ROWS NEAR CAISTOR ROCK.</p> - -<p>(Taken in 1851. Scale <sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>12</sub> in. to 10 feet.)</p> - -<p>A. The Longstone. Hence in a northerly direction the row continued for 520 feet. -B. Cairn. C. Cairn with ring of stones.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">[Pg 162]</a></span></p> - -<p>There was a third double row, which started from -the Longstone, near Caistor Rock. This Longstone -is still standing, but the stone rows have been shamefully -robbed by a farmer to build his newtake walls. -I give plan of the rows as taken by me in 1851. -There was another line of stones leading from the -Three Boys to the Longstone. The Three Boys -were three big stones that have disappeared, and the -line from them has also been obliterated. This -portion I unfortunately did not plan in 1851.</p> - -<p>In the valley of the Teign is the so-called tolmen, -a natural formation. In the same slab or stone may -be seen the beginnings of a second hole. But it is -curious as showing that the river at one time rolled -at a higher elevation than at present. The scenes -on a ramble up the river from Chagford to Holy -Street Mill and the mill itself are familiar to many, -as having furnished subjects for pictures in the Royal -Academy.</p> - -<p>The river Teign below Whiddon Park winds in -and out among wooded precipitous hills to where -the Exeter road descends in zigzags to Fingle -Bridge, passing on its way Cranbrook Castle, a -stone camp. The <em>brook</em> in the name is a corruption -of <em>burgh</em> or <em>burrh</em>. On the opposite side of the valley, -frowning across at Cranbrook, is Prestonbury Camp.</p> - -<p>With advantage the river may be followed down -for several miles to Dunsford Bridge, and the opportunity -is then obtained of gathering white heath which -grows on the slopes. At Shilstone in Drewsteignton -is the only cromlech in the county. It is a fine -monument. A few years ago it fell, but has been -re-erected in its old position. After recent ploughing -flints may be picked up in the field where it stands.</p> - -<p>Gidleigh merits a visit, the road to it presenting<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">[Pg 163]</a></span> -many delicious peeps. Gidleigh possesses the ruin -of a doll castle that once belonged to the Prouze -family. The church contains a screen in good preservation. -In the parish of Throwleigh is the -interesting manor house Wanson, of which I have -told a story in my <cite>Old English Home</cite>.</p> - -<p>But perhaps more interesting than manor houses -are the old farm buildings in the neighbourhood of -Chagford, rapidly disappearing or being altered out -of recognition to adapt them to serve as lodging-houses -to receive visitors.</p> - -<p>One such adaptation may be noticed in Tincombe -Lane. An old house is passed, where the ancient -mullioned windows have been heightened and the -floors and ceilings raised, to the lasting injury of -the house itself, considered from a picturesque point -of view. A passable road leads up the South Teign -to Fernworthy, a substantial farm in a singularly -lone spot. But there was another farm even more -lonely at Assacombe, where a lateral stream descends -to the Teign, but it has been abandoned, and consists -now of ruin only. Near it is a well-preserved -double stone row leading from a cairn and finishing -at a blocking-stone.</p> - -<p>At Fernworthy itself is a circle of upright stones -and the remains of several stone rows sorely mutilated -for the construction of a newtake wall. In a tumulus -near these monuments was found an urn containing -ashes, with a flint knife, and another, very small, of -bronze or copper, and a large polished button of -horn. On Chagford Common, near Watern Hill, is -a double pair of rows leading from a cairn and a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">[Pg 164]</a></span> -small menhir, to blocking-stones. Although the -stones of which they are composed are small, the -rows are remarkably well preserved.</p> - -<p>It will repay the visitor to continue his ascent of -the South Teign to the Grey Wethers, two circles -of stone, of which, however, many are fallen. Here -exploration, such as has been conducted at Fernworthy -circle, shows that the floors are deep in -ashes, and this leads to the surmise that the circles -were the crematories of the dead who lie in the -cairns and tunnels in the neighbourhood.</p> - -<p>Near the source of the North Teign is Teignhead -House, one of the most solitary spots in England. -A shepherd resides there, but it is not for many -winters that a woman can endure the isolation and -retain her reason.</p> - -<p>And yet there remain the ruins of a house in -a still more lonely situation. The moorman points -it out as Browne's House.</p> - -<p>Although, judging from the dilapidation and the -lichened condition of the stones, one could have supposed -that this edifice was of great antiquity, yet it -is not so by any means. There are those still alive -who remember when the chimney fell; and who had -heard of both the building, the occupying, and the -destruction of Browne's House. Few indeed have -seen the ruin, for it is in so remote a spot that only -the shepherd, the rush-cutter, and the occasional -fisherman approach it.</p> - -<p>On the Ordnance Survey, faint indications of inclosures -are given on the spot, but no name is -attached. Yet every moorman, if asked what these -ruins are, will tell you that it is the wreck of -Browne's House.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> -<img src="images/p164.jpg" width="700" height="538" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p>GRIMSPOUND, AND ENTRANCE</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">[Pg 165]</a></span></p> - -<p>The story told me relative to this solitary spot was -that Browne, an ungainly, morose man, had a pretty -young wife, of whom he was jealous. He built this -place in which to live with her away from the society -of men, and the danger such proximity might bring -to his connubial happiness.</p> - -<p>Grimspound will be visited from Chagford. The -way to it after leaving the high-road from Post Bridge -to Moreton, which it crosses, traverses Shapleigh -Common, where are numerous inclosures in connection -with hut circles. One of these is very large, -and constructed of huge slabs of granite. Several of -these larger circles were occupied only in summer, -it would appear, as there are scanty traces of fire in -them, whereas attached to them are small huts, the -floors of which are thickly strewn with charcoal and -fragments of pottery, and presumably the cooking -was done in these latter.</p> - -<p>Grimspound is an irregular circular inclosure containing -four acres within the boundary wall. It is -situated on the slope of a hill, and the position is -obviously ill-adapted for defence, as it is commanded -by higher ground on three sides. A little stream, -the Grimslake, flows through the inclosure.</p> - -<p>The wall itself is double-faced, and the two faces -have fallen inwards. This shows that the core could -not have been of turf, as in that case shrubs would -have rooted themselves therein and have thrust the -walls outward. In several places openings appear -from the inside of the pound into the space between<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">[Pg 166]</a></span> -the walls. It is possible that this intermediate -hollow was used for stores, and that the walls were -tied together with timber, and surmounted with -a parapet of turf. A trackway from Manaton to -Headland Warren runs through the pound, and the -wall has been broken through for this purpose in two -places; but the original entrance to the S.S.E. is -perfect, and is paved, and in it three steps have been -formed, as the descent was into the pound, another -token that the inclosure was not intended as a -fortress.</p> - -<p>The entrance is 8 feet wide, and no outwork was -constructed to protect it from being "rushed" by an -enemy. The walls of the inclosure here and -throughout are from 10 feet to 12 feet thick, and -stone does not exist in any part which could raise -them above 5 feet 6 inches in height. Each wall -is 3 feet 6 inches wide at base, and was 3 feet at top. -On the west side is a huge slab set on edge, measuring -10 feet by 5 feet, and it is from 9 inches to 1 foot -in thickness, and weighs from 3 to 4 tons. Other -stones, laid in courses, if not so long, are not of less -weight. Such a wall as that inclosing Grimspound -would cost, with modern appliances and with horse -power for drawing the stone, three guineas per land -yard, and a land yard would engage four men for a -week.</p> - -<p>When, moreover, we consider that the circumference -of the wall measures over 1,500 feet, it becomes -obvious that a large body of men must have been -engaged in the erection.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">[Pg 167]</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 577px;"> -<img src="images/p166.jpg" width="577" height="700" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p>GRIMSPOUND</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">[Pg 168]</a></span></p> - -<p>Presumably Grimspound was not a fortified village, -and was merely a pound into which cattle were -driven for protection against wolves. It is just -possible, but hardly probable, that it was the place -of refuge for the scattered population on Hookner -and Hamildon.</p> - -<p>Within the pound are twenty-four hut circles; -most have been explored, and one (No. III. on the -plan) has been partially restored, and is inclosed -within a railing. The object of this restoration was -to discover, by piling up the stones found in and -about the wall of the hut, what its height had been -originally, and this was determined to have been -four feet.</p> - -<p>Unless wantonly injured by trippers, it will serve -to exhibit what the structure of these habitations -was, with its paved platform as bed, and its hearth -and vestibule.</p> - -<p>A double hut (XVIII., XIX.) is interesting because -a tall stone was erected beside it, as though to indicate -it as being the residence of some man of -importance, maybe the sheik of the community. -In hut XVI. is a double bed, one couch divided from -the other by upright stones.</p> - -<p>In several of the huts, in the floor, are laid flat -stones with a smooth surface, and it was supposed -that these served as chopping-stones, but further -explorations have led to the belief that they were -employed to sustain a central pole that upheld -the roof.</p> - -<p>On the <em>col</em> above Grimspound, near the source of -Grimslake, is a cairn that contains a small kistvaen, -and is surrounded by a circle of stones set upright.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">[Pg 169]</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> -<a href="images/p168_full.jpg"><img src="images/p168_thumb.jpg" width="400" height="287" alt="" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p><a href="images/p168_full.jpg">PLAN OF HUT III., GRIMSPOUND.</a></p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">[Pg 170]</a></span></p> - -<p>Numerous cairns crown the heights. One immense -tumulus, King's Barrow, has at some unknown time -been excavated with great labour.</p> - -<p>The great central trackway crosses Hamildon, and -is very perfect where it does so. It had apparently -no connection whatever with Grimspound.</p> - -<p>From Grimspound may be seen, on the brow of -the ridge connecting Birch Tor and Challacombe -Down, a series of stone rows. They lead to a -blocking-stone, or menhir, at the south extremity. -The northern end has been destroyed by tin-streamers, -whose works in Chaw Gully are interesting, -for mining has been combined with streaming. -The rock has been cut through, but no signs of the -use of iron wedges for splitting the granite can here -be discovered. It is traditionally told that what was -done was to cut a groove in the granite, fill that with -quicklime, and pour water on it. The lime in swelling -split the rock. Ravens nest here; and I have -seen rock doves and the pair of ravens nesting -almost side by side.</p> - -<p>Below is the Webburn, the stream turned up by -tinners. There one mine continues in activity—the -"Golden Dagger." Above is Vitifer, where fortunes -have been made—and lost; mostly the latter by -investors, mainly the former by the "captains" and -promoters.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> -<img src="images/p170.jpg" width="700" height="472" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p>NEAR MANATON</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">[Pg 171]</a></span></p> -<div class="chapter"></div> -<hr class="chap" /> - - - - -<h2>CHAPTER XII.<br /> - -MANATON</h2> - -<div class="hangindent"> - -<p>Beauty of the site—The church—Destruction of the cross—Lustleigh -Cleave—North Bovey—Lustleigh church—Prouze tombs—The sacrifice -of a cat—Bishop Stapeldon's stone—Becka fall—The eastern -side of the moor—Hound Tor—The sycamore—Hey Tor—Camp or -pound—Rippon Tor—Foale's Arrishes—Finger-marks on pottery—Salubrity -of Dartmoor—Settlers—Widdecombe in October—The -church—Thunderstorm—"Lady" Darke—Old farmhouses—The -Song of "Widdecombe Fair."</p></div> - - -<p class="drop-capw"><span class="smcap">The</span> position of Manaton is one of remarkable -beauty, between Lustleigh Cleave and the ridge -on which stands Bowerman's Nose, and which swells -up to Hound Tor.</p> - -<p>The church is dedicated to S. Winefred, the Welsh -martyr maid, and has its fine screen carefully restored. -It formerly possessed a singular feature, which the -"restoring" architect destroyed, because singular. -This was a small window in the east wall opening -from the outside, <em>under</em> the altar. Perhaps there -were relics of S. Winefred kept beneath the altar, -and through this <i lang="la">fenestrella confessionis</i> the devotees -could touch them. But, indeed, the destroyer has -been at Manaton and effaced more than this window. -On the tor that commands the village were formerly -many prehistoric monuments. The farm Langstone -by its name proclaims that on it was a menhir. In<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">[Pg 172]</a></span> -the churchyard was a fine granite cross. A former -rector, the Rev. C. Carwithen, wantonly destroyed it -in the night. The people had been wont at a funeral -to carry the corpse the way of the sun thrice round -the cross before interment. He preached against the -custom ineffectually, so he secretly smashed the cross. -There are two logan rocks within easy reach—the -Whooping Stone on Easdon, and the Nutcracker in -Lustleigh Cleave.</p> - -<p>This cleave is very picturesque. "Cleave" properly -is a local softening of the word "cliff," and applies to -the rocks, but in common use it has come incorrectly -to be applied to the valley below the crags. Through -the stone-strewn trough of the vale the sparkling -Bovey finds its way with some difficulty, diving -under the boulders at Horsham Steps, and running -unseen for some considerable distance, only proclaiming -its presence by its murmurs and whispers.</p> - -<p>That there was some fighting done across this -valley is probable, because there are camps on both -sides.</p> - -<p>In honourable contrast with Mr. Carwithen stands -Mr. Jones, the curate of North Bovey, who fished the -old village cross out of the brook, where it had lain -since the iconoclastic period of the Civil Wars, and -re-erected it in 1829.</p> - -<p>North Bovey church, pleasantly situated, possesses -a screen much mutilated, but capable of restoration. -Far superior to it in preservation is that of Lustleigh, -which is of the same character as that of Bridford, -perhaps post-Reformation, and contains a series of -figures in the lower compartments representing clergy<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">[Pg 173]</a></span> -in their caps and surplices and "liripipets," and not -saints. There is some old glass in the church, in one -window a representation of S. Margaret. There are -monumental effigies in the church of the Prouze -family. One of these is of Sir William Prouze, to -whom the manor of Lustleigh belonged. By his will he -directed that he should be buried with his ancestors -at Lustleigh; but he died at a distance, and was -interred at Holbeton. Some time after, the wishes -of her father having come to the knowledge of Lady -Alice, the wife of Sir Roger Mules, Baron of Cadbury, -and finding that they had been disregarded, the dutiful -daughter petitioned Grandisson, Bishop of Exeter in -1329, that the remains might be removed from Holbeton -to Lustleigh, and the prayer was granted.</p> - -<p>Forming the sill of the south door is a long -granite stone with a Romano-British inscription, -the reading of which has not been satisfactorily -made out.</p> - -<p>In the chancel may be noticed the stone brackets, -perforated for the cords employed for the suspension -of the Lenten veil.</p> - -<p>A story associated with Lustleigh church has its -parallels elsewhere. After it had been built the -devil threatened to destroy it, stained glass and all, -unless he were given a sacrifice. Now it happened -that a bumpkin was present in the churchyard with -a pack of cards in his pocket, and the Evil One -immediately demanded him as his due; but the -man, with great presence of mind, pounced on a -cat that was stalking by and dashed out its brains -against the wall of the porch. This satisfied the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">[Pg 174]</a></span> -powers of darkness, and the consecration of the -church followed. The story is a clumsy late cooking -up of the old belief that before a building could be -occupied a life must be sacrificed to the telluric -deities. A horse, a dog, a sow—in this case a cat -was offered up. Echoes of the same are found -everywhere.<a name="FNanchor_17_17" id="FNanchor_17_17"></a><a href="#Footnote_17_17" class="fnanchor">[17]</a> Most Devonshire churchyards were -formerly supposed to be haunted by some animal or -other, which had been buried under the cornerstone. -When S. Columba took possession of Iona the question -arose as to who was to die and be buried so as -to secure the place for ever to the community. One -of his monks, Oran by name, offered himself, and he -was buried alive under the foundations of the new -abbey.</p> - -<p>The rectory house possesses its ancient hall open -to the roof. In the hedge between the church and -station is the "Bishop's Stone," a large block, bearing -the arms of Bishop Stapeldon (1307-26), who was -murdered in the riots occasioned by Edward II. -favouring the Despensers. He was fallen on by the -London mob in Cheapside, stripped, and beheaded -by them.</p> - -<p>Strewn about Lustleigh are numerous masses of -granite, rounded, and like loaves of bread. This -is due to the weathering of the granite, which is -soft, but some, if not most, appear to have been -carried to where they lie by water.</p> - -<p>The stream Becka forms a fall into the valley of -the Bovey, through woods, but except in very rainy -weather it is insignificant, and hardly merits to be -considered a waterfall; it is properly only a water-trickle.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> -<img src="images/p175.jpg" width="700" height="473" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p>HOUND TOR</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">[Pg 175]</a></span></p> - -<p>The eastern flank of the moor is infinitely richer -in vegetation than the western. The whole of Dartmoor -stands up as a wall against the prevalent -north-west and south-west winds that distort the -trees on the west side. Moreover, owing to the -shelter thus furnished, and to the disintegration of -the granite trending in this direction so as to form -deep beds of gravel, the valleys and hillsides are -clothed with rich vegetation. Pines flourish.</p> - -<p>Hound Tor is a noble mass of rocks. It derives -its name from the shape assumed by the blocks on -the summit, that have been weathered into forms resembling -the heads of dogs peering over the natural -battlements, and listening to hear the merry call -of the horn. Below it, on the Manaton side, nestles -Hound Tor Farm, picturesquely enfolded in a sycamore -grove.</p> - -<p>The sycamore, by the way, is peculiarly the tree -for Dartmoor and other exposed situations. The -beech cowers and turns from the blast, and it -divides so soon as its taproot touches rock; but the -sycamore stands up, indifferent to wind and rain, -to which it opposes the broad green leaves that it -turns against the blast, and so shelters itself as with -scale armour.</p> - -<p>On Hound Tor is a circle of stones containing -a kistvaen.</p> - -<p>The road that leads to Widdecombe and Ashburton -ascends to Hound Tor; but there is another<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">[Pg 176]</a></span> -road to Ashburton by Hey Tor that branches off to -the left before Hound Tor Farm is reached, and -scrambles up to Trendlebere Down, passing an -almost destroyed stone row starting from a cairn -beside the highway. The road runs at a great -elevation (1,080 feet) for some miles. There is a -pleasant and homely inn at Hey Tor Vale, where -the traveller may rest and gather strength to visit -Holwell Tor and Hey Tor Rocks. Holwell Tor was -at one time surrounded by a stone rampart, but -quarrymen have sadly injured it, and it is not now -easy to decide whether the inclosure was merely -a pound, like Grimspound, or a stone camp, like -Whit Tor.</p> - -<p>Hey Tor Rocks form two fine masses, and are unlike -most of the moorland tors, in that the granite is -very consistent, and is not broken into the usual -layers of soft beds alternating with hard layers. The -view of the valley below Hey Tor and Grea Tor -on one side, and the ridge of Bone Hill on the -other, is fine.</p> - -<p>The road, commanding to the east a vast stretch -of the rich lowlands of Devon, passes Saddle Tor -and reaches Rippon Tor, where is a good logan -stone. Here are several cairns much mutilated by -the road-makers. On the further side of the road, -by Pill Tor, are remains of an extensive prehistoric -settlement. Many huts and inclosures remain. The -place bears the name of Foale's Arrishes, from a -man of that appellation who spent his energies in -converting the prehistoric inclosures into fields for -his own use, to the destruction of much that was -interesting, and to his own very dubitable advantage. -The huts have, however, yielded fine specimens -of ornamented pottery. The decoration is here and -there made with a woman's finger-nail. Consider -that! Some poor barbaric squaw five thousand years -ago fashioned the damp clay with her hands and -devised a rude pattern, which she incised with her -nails. She is long ago gone to dust, and her dust -dispersed, but the impress of her nails remains.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> -<img src="images/p176.jpg" width="700" height="483" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p>HEY TOR ROCKS</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177">[Pg 177]</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> -<img src="images/p177.jpg" width="700" height="417" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p>FRAGMENT OF POTTERY.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>This is much like what we are all doing, and doing -unconsciously—leaving little finger-touches on our -creations, giving shape to the minds and habits of -our children and of those with whom we are brought -into contact, shaping, adorning, or disfiguring our -epoch, and the impressions we leave are indelible; -they will in turn be transmitted to ages to come.</p> - -<p>Some of the ornamentation, as in a specimen from<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178">[Pg 178]</a></span> -Smallacombe Rocks, is made with a twisted cord. -The pottery is all hand-made, shaped without the -wheel, and very imperfectly burnt. It is not red, -because there was little iron in the clay.</p> - -<p>One large hut at Foale's Arrishes had a seat carried -round part at least of the interior, made of branches -that were held from spreading by sharp stones planted -upright in the floor. The kitchen was on the left side -of the entrance in a subsidiary structure.</p> - -<p>It has, of late, become a thing not unusual for -young fellows, if suffering from delicacy of the lungs, -to rent or buy a farm on Dartmoor. No research -after parasitic microbes thenceforth concerns them. -The fresh air, the constant exercise, the joyous -existence on the wild moor are fatal to tubercular -bacteria. Rude health, buoyant spirits, unflagging -energy result from such treatment.</p> - -<p>It is, it must be admitted, surpassing hard to -induce servants from the "in-country" to take -situations on Dartmoor. The air there is as unsuited -to them as to other microbes. But the settler -lights his own fires, cooks his own meals, makes his -own bed; and, as one of them assured me, his -experience proved to him that a man can keep a -hunter at the same cost as he can a servant-maid: -therefore, why be worried with the latter?</p> - -<p>At Post Bridge they have had a succession of -curates who have lived this life in cabins or hovels, -and have learned to love it. It has one drawback, -and one only—it makes the hands rough and grimy. -But what are gloves for, but to cover dirty hands -when we go to town to make display?</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">[Pg 179]</a></span></p> - -<p>As to food. Rabbits are to be had at any moment; -geese, ducks live and luxuriate on the moor; an -occasional blackcock or moorhen and a brace of -snipe give zest; and trout are to be obtained for -the labour or pleasure of angling for them. The -price of horses is mounting; any number may be -grown on the moor. Sheep, cattle—you turn them -out, and they thrive on the sweet grass, and know -not the maladies that afflict flocks and herds in the -world twelve hundred feet below.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> -<img src="images/p179.jpg" width="700" height="590" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p>ORNAMENTED POTTERY.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Let it not be supposed that in winter Dartmoor -is a desolation and a horror. It is by no means an -unpleasant place for a sojourn then. When below -are mud and mist, aloft on the moor the ground is -hard with frost and the air crisp and clear. Down -below we are oppressed with the fall of the leaf,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180">[Pg 180]</a></span> -affecting us, if inclined to asthma and bronchitis; -and in the short, dull days of December and January -our spirits wax dark amidst naked trees and when -our ankles are deep in mud. There are no trees on -Dartmoor to expose their naked limbs, and tell us -that vegetation is dead. The shoulders of down are -draped in brown sealskin mantles—the ling and -heather, as lovely in its sleep as in its waking state; -the mosses, touched by frost, turn to rainbow hues. -For colour effects give me Dartmoor in winter.</p> - -<p>And then the peat fires! What fires can surpass -them? They do not flame, but they glow, and -diffuse an aroma that fills the lungs with balm. -The turf-cutting is one of the annual labours on -the moor. Every farm has its peat-bog, and in the -proper season a sufficiency of fuel is cut, then carried -and stacked for winter use. I may be mistaken, but -it seems to me that cooking done over a peat fire -surpasses cooking at the best club in London. But -it may be that on the moor one relishes a meal in a -manner impossible elsewhere.</p> - -<p>Widdecombe-in-the-Moor is a village in a valley -walled off from the world by high ridges on the east -and on the west. The entire bed of the valley has -been washed and rewashed by streamers for tin. -Bag Park is a gentleman's seat laid out on this collection -of refuse, and the pines and firs luxuriate in -the granite rubble and grow, as if it were to them -a pleasure to thrust up their leaders and expand their -boughs.</p> - -<p>I shall never forget a drive through Widdecombe -one October day, when the sun was shining bright,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181">[Pg 181]</a></span> -and the air was soft. The sycamores had shed their -leaves; but the expedition was one through coral -land. The rowan or mountain-ash, which was everywhere, -was burdened with clusters of scarlet berries, -and the hedges were wreathed with rose-hips and -dense with ruddy haws.</p> - -<p>The church of Widdecombe has a very fine tower, -built, it is said, by the tinners. The roof has many -of the original bosses, carved and painted with -heads, flowers, and leaves. One has the figure on it -of S. Catherine with her wheel. One boss has on -it three rabbits, each with a single ear, which unite in -the centre, forming a triangle. One exactly similar -is in Tavistock church.</p> - -<p>Part of the lower portion of the roodscreen remains -with figures of saints on it.</p> - -<p>The story of the great thunderstorm in which -Widdecombe church was struck, on Sunday, October -21st, 1638, when the congregation were present -at divine service, has often been told, notably by -Mr. Blackmore in his novel <cite>Christowel</cite>.</p> - -<p>Prince, in his <cite>Worthies of Devon</cite>, thus narrates -the circumstances:—</p> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>"In the afternoon, in service time, there happened a -very great darkness, which still increased to that degree, -that they could not see to read; soon after, a terrible and -fearful thunder was heard, like the noise of so many great -guns, accompanied with dreadful lightning, to the great -amazement of the people; the darkness still increasing, -that they could not see each other, when there presently -came such an extraordinary flame of lightning, as filled the -church with fire, smoak, and a loathsome smell, like brim-<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182">[Pg 182]</a></span>stone; -a ball of fire came in likewise at the window, and -passed through the church, which so affrighted the congregation, -that most of them fell down in their seats; some -upon their knees, others on their faces, and some one upon -another, crying out of burning and scalding, and all giving -themselves up for dead. There were in all four persons -killed, and sixty-two hurt, divers of them having their linen -burnt, tho' their outward garments were not so much as -singed.... The church itself was much torn and defaced -with the thunder and lightning, a beam whereof, breaking -in the midst, fell down between the minister and clerk, and -hurt neither. The steeple was much wrent; and it was -observed where the church was most torn, there the least -hurt was done among the people. There was none hurted -with the timber or stone; but one man, who, it was judged, -was killed by the fall of a stone."</p></div> - -<p>The monument of this man, Roger Hill, is in -the church, as also an account in verse of the storm, -composed by the village schoolmaster.</p> - -<p>For many years the incumbent of Widdecombe -was a man who was reputed to be the son of -George IV. when Prince Regent. His sister, married -to a captain, who deserted her, occupied a cottage, -now in ruins, under Crockern Tor. She also was -believed to be of blood-royal with a bar sinister. -Both the parson and his sister had been brought -up about Court. He, when given the living of -Widdecombe—- to get him out of sight and mind—brought -with him a large consignment of excellent -port, and that drew to his parsonage such rare men -as would brave the moors and storms for the sake -of a carouse.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183">[Pg 183]</a></span></p> - -<p>His sister, in the desolate cottage under Crockern -Tor, languished and died, leaving her only child, -Caroline, to the charge of her uncle. She was sent -for her education to a famous school in Queen's -Square, London, where she associated with girls -belonging to families of the first rank.</p> - -<p>A certain air of distinction, as well as the story -that circulated relative to her mother's origin, made -her an object of interest, and her imperious manner -commanded respect.</p> - -<p>The vicarage was by no means a good place in -which a young girl should grow to maturity. The -house was not frequented by men of the best -character, and the wildest stories are told of the -goings-on there in the forties and fifties.</p> - -<p>Caroline was, however, a girl of exceptionally -strong character; she was early called on to hold -her own with the associates of her uncle and frequenters -of the vicarage, and she was quite able to -enforce upon them a proper behaviour towards -herself.</p> - -<p>Unhappily, she had been reared without any -religious principles; her law was consequently her -own caprice, fortunately held in check by a strong -sense of personal dignity.</p> - -<p>The position she was in was as forlorn and unpromising -as any in which a young girl could find -herself.</p> - -<p>She was full of generous impulses, but they were -wholly untrained; she possessed furious passions, -which were held in check solely by her pride. She -would do at one time a generous act and next a dirty<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184">[Pg 184]</a></span> -trick, "just," as the people said, "as though she were -a pixy."</p> - -<p>A gentleman named Darke, visiting her uncle on -some business, married Caroline, and soon after her -uncle died suddenly, having made a will in her -favour.</p> - -<p>The vicarage was well furnished and contained -articles of great value, in pictures, plate, etc., supposed -to have been presented to him, but most likely -obtained with money lent at Court to those temporarily -embarrassed.</p> - -<p>The manor had been sold, and was purchased by -Mrs. Darke's trustees at her request, and from that -time she insisted on being entitled "Lady" Darke; -and into this she moved with her dogs, horses, and -husband.</p> - -<p>This latter had soon discovered what an imperious -character she possessed. His will might clash with -hers, but hers would never give way. Her character -was the toughest and most energetic, and by degrees -he fell into a condition of submission and insignificance -which it was painful to witness, and which -"Lady" Darke herself resented, without being aware -that it was due to her own overbearing behaviour.</p> - -<p>She kept nine or ten horses in her stables—some -had never been broken in; some she rode on, others -were driven in pairs. But towards the end of her -life the horses were not taken out, and ate their -heads off many times over.</p> - -<p>If a visitor of distinction was expected, she sent -for him her carriage and pair with silver-mounted -harness. For ordinary use she employed her <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">[Pg 185]</a></span>brass-mounted -harness; but Bill, her husband, was despatched -to market in the little trap in which she -fetched coals. Latterly Mr. Darke was sent to make -purchases at Ashburton, with a long list of "chores," -<em>i.e.</em> of articles he was to bring back with him, written -out during the week on a slip of paper from a -pocket-book. Here is one: "Kidney-beans and -cucumbers; tea, and green paint with driers; brushes -and putty; sweets; and a frock-body for myself; a -milkpan, fourteen inches; side-combs, 3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em>; ostler's -boy and fish; lavender; pain-killer; wine, salad oil, -harness paste, and rice; also ribs of beef, grate for -blue bedroom, india-rubber; rabbits, grind scissors, -cheese, inn and ostler."</p> - -<p>She ruled her husband, and indeed everyone with -whom she came in contact. He, cut off from social -intercourse with his fellows, out of the current of -intellectual life, with no other work to do than to -fulfil her behests, sank in his own estimation, and fell -into degradation without making an effort to rise out -of it.</p> - -<p>An instance of her despotic character may be -given. One day she wanted to have her hay made; -she was anxious lest a change of weather should -come on. She issued an imperious order to the curate -of the parish to come and help save the hay. He -sent an apology. This rendered her furious. She -went in quest of him, met him in the village, and -falling on him soundly boxed his ears in public.</p> - -<p>She was an implacable hater; and living on the -wilds, half educated, she was superstitious, and believed -in witchcraft, and in her own power to <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">[Pg 186]</a></span>ill-wish -such individuals as offended her. She was -caught on one occasion with a doll into which she -was sticking pins and needles, in the hope and with -the intent thereby of producing aches and cramps in -a neighbour. On another occasion she laid a train of -gunpowder on her hearth, about a figure of dough, -and ignited it, for the purpose of conveying an -attack of fever to the person against whom she was -animated with resentment.</p> - -<p>It need hardly be said that believing in her own -powers others believed in them as well, and dreaded -offending her.</p> - -<p>She was kind-hearted, and impulsive in her -generosity. She divided the parish into two halves—one -she gave over to the doctor and kept the other -to herself. "He kills with his physic," she said, "I -keep alive and recover with my soups and port wine."</p> - -<p>She was vastly angry with the vicar, her uncle's -successor, about some trifle, and she went after him -with her whip and threatened to chastise him with -it. He actually summoned her, and swore that he -lived in bodily fear of the lady.</p> - -<p>She liked to have visitors drop in on her, but not -to be warned of their coming; for she took a pride -in showing what she could provide for table on the -spur of the moment; and forth would come a ham, -half a goose, a boiled leg of mutton, a big cheese -and celery, produced as by magic, and would be -served by herself in an old gown, red turnover handkerchief -on her shoulders, and a coal-scuttle bonnet -on her head.</p> - -<p>Mrs. Darke at one time played on the piano after<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187">[Pg 187]</a></span> -the meal to get her guests to dance, but the cats tore -the instrument open and made their nests and kittened -among the strings, and the damp air rusted the wires. -Then she bought a barrel-organ, and forced her -husband to turn the handle in the corner and grind -out the music for the dancers. However, on one -occasion, having tasted too often a bottle within -reach, though out of sight, he fell forward in the -middle of a dance and brought the instrument down -with him. The instrument was so broken that it -could no longer be used. Mr. Darke died at last in -one of the fits to which he was liable, having retired -to rest by mistake under in place of on the bed.</p> - -<p>By this time the lady had become very deaf.</p> - -<p>On hearing the news of the decease some friends -went to see her.</p> - -<p>"Very grieved, madam, at your sad loss!"</p> - -<p>"Ah! Bill is dead. He might have done worse; -he might have lived. You will stop and dine, of -course."</p> - -<p>They had to tarry to see to matters of business. -"Now, look here," said "Lady" Darke, "I'll have no -more 'truck' with Bill. He has been trouble to me -long enough. I shall send him to his friends in -Plymouth. Let them bury him."</p> - -<p>"Madam," said the nurse, "we want to lay him -out. Will you give me a sheet?"</p> - -<p>"A sheet! One of my good linen sheets! Not I. -Take a pig-cloth"; that is to say, one in which bacon -was salted. And actually her husband was laid in -his coffin in one of these "pig-cloths."</p> - -<p>In Mrs. Cudlip's novel, <cite>She Cometh Not, He Saith</cite>,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188">[Pg 188]</a></span> -is a description of a meeting with the lady that is -very true to life, as is also the account of the downstairs -arrangement of the manor house.</p> - -<p>In later years "Lady" Darke became infirm. She -neglected everything, and no one dared do anything -in the house without her orders. Until she came -downstairs in the morning there could be no breakfast, -as she kept the keys. The house was infested -with cats and dogs, and her servants did not dare -to get rid of any of them, or to drive them out of the -rooms. The large room over the kitchen she alone -entered. The door was padlocked, and the key of -the padlock she kept attached to her garter. Thence -the key had to be taken after her death to obtain -admission. It was found to contain a confused mass -of sundry articles to the depth of three feet above the -floor, the accumulation of many years. Bureaus were -there with guineas and banknotes in the drawers, -and quantities of old silver plate, bearing the arms -and crests of men of title who had been about the -Court of the Prince Regent; and the whole was -veiled in cobwebs that hung from the ceiling so long -and so dense as to hide the further extremity of the -chamber.</p> - -<p>"Lady" Darke retained her imperious disposition -to the end; it was in vain that it was suggested to -her that she should have an attendant to be always -with her. She often sat up the whole night by her -fire, and her servants dared not retire to bed till their -mistress had given the signal that they were to -depart.</p> - -<p>Of relations she had none; at least none who<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_189" id="Page_189">[Pg 189]</a></span> -came near her, and when she was dead much -difficulty was found in discovering any persons who -had claim to her inheritance.</p> - -<p>She died quite suddenly, and left no will.</p> - -<p>Her trustees had to advertise before they could -find relations, and then those who presented themselves -were the children of her father by a third -wife. Her dogs and cats were first killed, then -several old horses that were dragging themselves -about the field in extreme old age.</p> - -<p>Her plate and pictures were sold.</p> - -<p>To the best of my knowledge no portrait of her -remains.</p> - -<p>She was a fine woman, and must at one time have -been handsome. It was fancied by many that her -features bore a resemblance to the pictures of -George IV. in his young days. The mystery -relative to her mother and uncle was never solved, -and it is possible enough that the supposed paternity -was due to idle gossip.</p> - -<p>There were vast collections of letters among the -remains, but these were all destroyed, and nothing -was allowed to transpire as to their contents.</p> - -<p>The story from beginning to end is one of infinite -sadness. It is of one with a remarkably strong but -undisciplined character, one full of good impulses, -who had never been taught religious duty, and given -no religious belief, who was therefore condemned to -waste a profitless life in a remote village, without -purpose, without self-discipline, without hope, without -God.</p> - -<p>There are some interesting old farmhouses about<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190">[Pg 190]</a></span> -Widdecombe; one is at Chittleford, another on -Corndon. The primitive type of farm on the moor -was an inclosed courtyard, entered through a gate. -Opposite the gate is the dwelling-house, with a -projecting porch, with an arched granite door and a -mullioned window over it. On one side of the -entrance is the dwelling-room, on the other the -saddle and sundry chamber. The well, which is a -stream of water from the moor conducted by a small -leat to the house, is under cover; and the cattle-sheds -open into the yard, so as to be reached with ease -from the house without exposure to the storms.</p> - -<p>These farm dwellings are rapidly disappearing, -and are making way for more pretentious and extremely -hideous buildings. Such as remain are -remarkably picturesque, and should be photographed -before they are destroyed.</p> - -<p>Widdecombe must not be quitted without a reference -to the famous ballad of the old grey mare taken -there to the fair; a ballad that is immensely popular -in Devon, and one to the air of which the Devon -Regiment went against the Boers.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 466px;"> -<img src="images/p190.jpg" width="466" height="700" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p>LOWER TARR</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191">[Pg 191]</a></span></p> - -<div class="center"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">"Tom Pearce, Tom Pearce, lend me thy grey mare,<br /></span> -<span class="i4">All along, down along, out along, lee.<br /></span> -<span class="i0">For I want for to go to Widdecombe Fair,<br /></span> -<span class="i4">Wi' Bill Brewer, Jan Stewer, Peter Gurney, Peter Davy,<br /></span> -<span class="i6">Dan'l Whiddon, Harry Hawk,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Old Uncle Tom Cobleigh and all.<br /></span> -</div><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i10"><em>Chorus</em>—Old Uncle Tom Cobleigh and all.<br /></span> -</div><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">"And when shall I see again my grey mare?<br /></span> -<span class="i4">All along, down along, out along, lee.<br /></span> -<span class="i0">By Friday soon, or Saturday noon,<br /></span> -<span class="i4">Wi' Bill Brewer, etc.<br /></span> -</div><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">"Then Friday came, and Saturday noon,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">All along, down along, out along, lee.<br /></span> -<span class="i0">But Tom Pearce's old mare hath not trotted home,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">Wi' Bill Brewer, etc.<br /></span> -</div><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">"So Tom Pearce he got up to the top of the hill<br /></span> -<span class="i2">All along, down along, out along, lee.<br /></span> -<span class="i0">And he seed his old mare down a-making her will,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">Wi' Bill Brewer, etc."<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 648px;"> -<img src="images/p191.jpg" width="648" height="700" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p>Now it does not appear from the song <em>why</em> the -mare was so dead beat. But a clever American -artist, who has illustrated the song, has brought her -knowledge of human nature to bear on the story. -She has shown in her pictures how that the borrower<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_192" id="Page_192">[Pg 192]</a></span> -of the horse met with a pretty gipsy girl at the fair, -and persuaded her to ride away with him <i lang="fr">en croupe</i>. -This explains at once why the horse was so overcome -that it "fell sick and died."</p> - -<p>One can understand also how that this ballad -being a man's song, a veil is delicately thrown over -this incident.</p> - -<p>I do not quote the entire ballad.</p> - -<div class="center"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">"When the wind whistles cold on the moor of a night,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">All along, down along, out along, lee.<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Tom Pearce's old mare doth appear ghastly white,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">Wi' Bill Brewer, etc.<br /></span> -</div><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">"And all the long night be heard skirling and groans,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">All along, down along, out along, lee.<br /></span> -<span class="i0">From Tom Pearce's old mare in her rattling bones,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">Wi' Bill Brewer, etc."<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_17_17" id="Footnote_17_17"></a><a href="#FNanchor_17_17"><span class="label">[17]</span></a> See my article on "Foundations" in <cite>Strange Survivals</cite> (Methuen -and Co., 1892). See also my <cite>Book of the West</cite>, i. p. 331.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_193" id="Page_193">[Pg 193]</a></span></p></div></div> -<div class="chapter"></div> -<hr class="chap" /> - - - - -<h2>CHAPTER XIII.<br /> - -HOLNE</h2> - -<div class="hangindent"> - -<p>Holne church and screen—Epitaph—Holne Chase—The Coffin-stone—Dartmeet -Bridge—Dolly's Cot—Dolly Trebble—Sherrill—Yar -Tor—Proposed new road—Pixy Holt—Blowing-house at Okebrook—Jolly -Lane Cot—Song-hunting under difficulties—The Sandy -Way—Childe's Tomb—Crosses in a line—Swincombe—Gobbetts -Mine—Crazing-mill stones—Holne vicarage—Charles Kingsley—Old -customs at Holne—Similar custom at King's Teignton—Sacrifice -of sheep.</p></div> - - -<p class="drop-capw"><span class="smcap">At</span> Holne the old church house, now an inn, -affords very comfortable quarters, and from it -many interesting excursions may be made.</p> - -<p>Holne church has preserved its old screen and -pulpit, the former rich with paintings of saints. Both -were probably erected by Oldam, Bishop of Exeter, -1504-19. In the churchyard is the following doggerel -inscription:—</p> - -<div class="center"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">"Here lies poor old Ned, on his last mattrass bed.<br /></span> -<span class="i2">During life he was honest and free;<br /></span> -<span class="i0">He knew well the chase, but has now run his race,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">And his name it was Colling, d'ye see.<br /></span> -</div><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i4">He died December 28th, 1780, aged 77."<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>From the vicarage garden a noble view of the -windings of the Dart through Holne Chase is to -be obtained—permission asked and given.</p> - -<p>To see Holne Chase, it should be ascended as far<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194">[Pg 194]</a></span> -as New Bridge, and thence descended through the -Buckland Drives. Permission is given on fixed days.</p> - -<p>In Holne Wood, where the river makes a loop, is -an early camp, with indications of hut circles in it, -but thrown out of shape by the trees growing in the -area. Near the entrance charcoal-burners have -formed their hole in which to burn the timber. A -finer and better preserved camp is Hembury.</p> - -<p>In the Chase, on the Buckland side under Awsewell -Rock, are the remains of furnaces and great heaps of -slag. The point is where there is a junction of the -granite and the sedimentary rocks. Above the wooded -flank of the hill, the rocks are pierced and honeycombed -by miners following veins of ore, probably -copper. The workings are very primitive, and -deserve inspection. The little village of Buckland -should not be neglected. It is marvellously picturesque, -but the houses do not appear to be healthy, -being buried in foliage. The church has not been -restored. It possesses an old screen with curious -paintings, some impossible to interpret; and it is in -the old bepewed, neglected condition familiar now -only to those whose years number something about -sixty or seventy. Buckland-in-the-Moor is the full -name of this parish, but it is no longer in the moor. -Colonel Bastard, ancestor of the present owner, -planted all the heathery land and hillsides with -trees, and received therefor the thanks of Parliament -as one who by so doing had deserved well of his -country.</p> - -<p>If Holne Chase be beautiful, so is the Dart above -New Bridge. A more interesting drive can hardly<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195">[Pg 195]</a></span> -be taken than one branching off from the main road -before reaching Pound's Gate and following a grassy -track called "Dr. Blackall's Drive," that sweeps round -the heights above the Dart and rejoins the road -between Mel Tor and Sharpie Tor.</p> - -<p>But to see the Dart valley in perfection the river -should be followed up on foot from New Bridge to -that of Dartmeet, and thence up to Post Bridge.</p> - -<p>The descent to Dartmeet by the road is one of -over five hundred feet. Halfway is the Coffin-stone, -on which five crosses are cut, and which is split in -half—the story goes, by lightning. On this it is -customary to rest a dead man on his way from the -moor beyond Dartmeet to his final resting-place at -Widdecombe. When the coffin is laid on this stone, -custom exacts the production of the whisky bottle, -and a libation all round to the manes of the deceased.</p> - -<p>One day a man of very evil life, a terror to his -neighbours, was being carried to his burial, and his -corpse was laid on the stone whilst the bearers -regaled themselves. All at once, out of a passing -cloud shot a flash, and tore the coffin and the dead -man to pieces, consuming them to cinders, and -splitting the stone. Do you doubt the tale? See -the stone cleft by the flash.</p> - -<p>Among the many hundreds who annually visit -Dartmeet, I do not suppose that more than one -sees the real beauties to which this spot opens the -way. Actually, Dartmeet Bridge is situated at -the least interesting and least picturesque point -on the river.</p> - -<p>To know the Dart and see its glories, a visitor<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_196" id="Page_196">[Pg 196]</a></span> -must desert the bridge and ascend the river. I -will indicate to him two walks, each of remarkable -beauty and each an easy one.</p> - -<p>The first is this: Ascend the Dart on the <em>left</em>. -This can be done by passing through a gate -above Dartmeet Cottage, and descending to the -river, where remain a few of the venerable oaks that -once abounded at Brimpts, but were wantonly cut -down at the beginning of this century. Ascend -by a fisherman's path through the plantation to -where the wood ends, and the hills falling back -reveal a pleasant meadow, with, rising out of it -by the river, a holt or pile of rocks overgrown with -oaks. The view from this is beautiful. Proceeding -half a mile a ruined cottage is reached, where the -stately Yar Tor may be seen to advantage. This -ruin is called Dolly's Cot.</p> - -<p>Dolly, who has given her name to this ruin, was a -somewhat remarkable woman. She lived with her -brother, orphans, by Princetown when Sir Thomas -Tyrwhitt settled at Tor Royal. She was a remarkably -handsome girl, and she seems to have caught -the eye of this gentleman, who located her and her -brother in the lodge, and then, as the brother kept a -sharp look-out on his sister, he got rid of him by -obtaining for him an appointment in the House of -Lords, where he looked after the lighting, and had -as his perquisite the ends of the wax tapers. As -fresh candles were provided every day, and the -sessions were at times short, the perquisites were -worth a good deal.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 509px;"> -<img src="images/p196.jpg" width="509" height="700" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p>THE CLEFT ROCK ABOVE HOLNE CHASE</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_197" id="Page_197">[Pg 197]</a></span></p> - -<p>However, if the brother were away Dolly had -another to watch over her, one Tom Trebble, a -young and handsome moorman, who did not at all -relish the manner in which Sir Thomas, Warden -of the Stannaries, hovered about Miss Dolly.</p> - -<p>But a climax was reached when the Prince Regent -arrived at Tor Royal to visit his forest of Dartmoor. -The Prince's eye speedily singled Dolly out, and the -blue coat and brass buttons, white ducks tightly -strapped, and the curled-brimmed hat were to be -seen on the way to Dolly's cottage a little too frequently -to please Tom Trebble. So to cut his -anxieties short he whisked Dolly on to the pillion -of his moor cob and rode off with her to Lydford, -where they were married. Then he carried her away -to this cottage—now a ruin—on the Dart, to which -led no road, hardly a path even, and where she was -likely to be out of the way of both the Prince and -his humble servant, Sir Thomas.</p> - -<p>In this solitary cottage Tom and Dolly lived for -many years. She survived her husband, and gained -her livelihood by working at the tin-mine of Hexworthy, -where one of the shafts recently sunk was -named after her.</p> - -<p>The candle-snuffer realised—so it was said—a -good fortune out of the wax taper-ends, and never -returned to Dartmoor.</p> - -<p>Dolly lived to an advanced age, and even as an -old woman was remarkably handsome and of a -distinguished appearance.</p> - -<p>It is now difficult to collect authentic information -concerning her, as only very old people remember -Dolly. She was buried at Widdecombe, and aged<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198">[Pg 198]</a></span> -moor folk still speak of her funeral, at which all -the women mourners wore white skirts, <em>i.e.</em> their -white petticoats <em>without</em> the coloured skirts of their -gowns, and white kerchiefs pinned as crossovers to -cover their shoulders.</p> - -<p>The distance is between six and seven miles. -Dolly was borne to her grave by the tin-miners, -and followed not only by the mine-workers, but -by all the women of the moorside, and all in -their white petticoats; and as they went they -sang psalms.</p> - -<p>From Dolly's Cot the hill can be ascended to -"The Seven Sisters," seven conspicuous old Scotch -pines, whereof one has lost its head. Thence a -road is reached that takes a visitor back to Dartmeet -by Brimpts.</p> - -<p>The other walk, even finer, is this: Ascend the -hill on the Ashburton road till a road breaks away -to the left to Sherrill. Follow this, when on the <em>col</em> -a kistvaen, inclosed in a circle, is reached. North of -this is a much-ruined set of stone rows, three parallel -lines running 660 feet, but so plundered that only -158 stones remain. The road descends to a pleasant -little settlement, Sherrill, or Sher-well, consisting of -a farm and some cottages. The Sher-well bursts -out in one strong spring beside the road, and becomes -a good stream almost directly.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> -<img src="images/p199.jpg" width="700" height="469" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p>YAR TOR</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199">[Pg 199]</a></span></p> - -<p>The situation is warm and sheltered, and the -ground is cultivated. The road descends to the -Wallabrook, which it crosses, to Babeney. Thence -a track leads down the Wallabrook to its junction -with the Dart, where is disclosed what I hold to be one -of the finest, if not the finest view on Dartmoor. -A tract of level pasture lies at the junction of -the streams, and from this Yar Tor soars up a -veritable mountain. Few of the Dartmoor heights -are so situated as to show themselves to such advantage. -On the right, a spur well clothed in dark -fir plantations comes down from Brimpts; and on -the left is a clitter of bold granite rocks. The time -to visit this is certainly the evening, when Yar Tor is -bathed in a golden glory, and the woods are steeped -in royal purple.</p> - -<p>Thence a path, or track rather, leads down the Dart -on the east side, past Badgers' Holt to the bridge.</p> - -<p>And perhaps on the way the <i lang="la">Graphis scripta</i> may be -found, but it is chiefly to be discovered on old hollies, -a mysterious writing, characters scrawled by delicate -hands, and understandable only by the pixies, who -are credited with thus writing their messages to one -another. Actually this is a lichen, that strangely -affects a script.</p> - -<p>It was at Badgers' Holt that old Dan Leaman -lived, on whom a trick was played which I have -already related in my <cite>Book of the West</cite>.</p> - -<p>What a solitary life must have been led by the -occupants of the scattered farms and cottages at -Babeney, Sherrill, Dury, and the like, in former times! -And yet those who occupied them got to love the -isolation. A woman at Sherrill, who had been in -service and had married a moorman, said to me, "I -wouldn't live here if I could help it; but, Lor' bless y', -my old man, there's no gettin' he away from atop o' -Widdecombe chimney"—that is to say, the level of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200">[Pg 200]</a></span> -church tower. The reach of its bells formed the -world—the only world in which he cared to live. In -a cottage near Sherrill lived an old woman absolutely -alone, who for sixty years never once allowed her fire -to go out.</p> - -<p>If it be desired to open out Dartmoor, a road -should be carried up the Dart from New Bridge to -Dartmeet, and thence, still following the river, to -Post Bridge. The owners of the banks of the Dart -below New Bridge to Holne Bridge—in fact, of Holne -Chase—could then hardly refuse to allow it to be -carried through their land to Holne Bridge, and then -a drive would be created passing through scenery -unsurpassed in England. Another ought to be -engineered up the Webburn from its meet with the -Dart, past Lizwell to Widdecombe; then that solitary -village would be at once accessible, and brought into -the world.</p> - -<p>Below Dartmeet Bridge, if the river be followed -on the right through a wood, the Pixy Holt is -reached, a cave in which the little good folk are -supposed to dwell. It is the correct thing to leave -a pin or some other trifle in acknowledgment when -visiting their habitation.</p> - -<p>Where the Okebrook drops into the West Dart -is an old blowing-house, with moulds for the tin, -ruined, and with a stout oak growing up in the -midst. There are also mortar-stones in the ruin. -Above Huccaby Bridge are the remains of a fine -circle of standing stones that has been sadly mutilated. -Another, far more perfect, is at Sherberton.</p> - -<p>Near the bridge is Jolly Lane Cot, the house of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_201" id="Page_201">[Pg 201]</a></span> -Sally Satterleigh, that was built and occupied in -one day. Her father was desirous of marrying a -wife and bringing her to a home; but he had no -home to which to introduce her, and the farmers -round not only would afford no help, but proved -obstructive. One day when it was Holne Revel, and -the farmers had gone thither, the labouring people -assembled in swarms, set to work and built up the -cottage, and before the farmers returned, lively with -drink, from the revel, the man was in the cottage -and had lighted a fire on the hearth, and this constituted -a freeholding from which no man might -dispossess him. This man was a notable singer, -and his old daughter, now a grandmother, remembered -some of his songs. One wild and stormy -day, Mr. Bussell, of Brazen Nose College, now Dr. -Bussell and tutor of his college, drove over with me -from Princetown to get her songs from her.</p> - -<p>But old Sally could not sit down and sing. We -found that the sole way in which we could extract -the ballads from her was by following her about as -she did her usual work. Accordingly we went after -her when she fed the pigs, or got sticks from the -firewood rick, or filled a pail from the spring, pencil -and notebook in hand, dotting down words and -melody. Finally she did sit to peel some potatoes, -when Mr. Bussell with a MS. music-book in hand, -seated himself on the copper. This position he -maintained as she sang the ballad of "Lord Thomas -and the Fair Eleanor," till her daughter applied fire -under the cauldron, and Mr. Bussell was forced to -skip from his perch.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_202" id="Page_202">[Pg 202]</a></span></p> - -<p>Holne forms the extreme eastern end of a long -ridge that terminates to the west in Down Tor. This -hog's back stands over 1,500 feet above the sea, and is -the watershed. From it stream the Avon, the Erme, -the Yealm, and the Plym in a southerly direction, -and north of it are the West Dart and the Swincombe -river. It is a rounded back of moor, without -granite tors, thickly sown with bogs. But there is -a track, the Sandy Way, that threads these morasses -from Holne, and leads to Childe's Tomb, a kistvaen, -with a cross near it.</p> - -<p>The story is well known.</p> - -<p>A certain Childe, a hunter, lost his way in winter -in this wilderness. Snow fell thick and his horse -could go no further.</p> - -<div class="center"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">"In darkness blind, he could not find<br /></span> -<span class="i2">Where he escape might gain,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Long time he tried, no track espied,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">His labours all in vain.<br /></span> -</div><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">"His knife he drew, his horse he slew<br /></span> -<span class="i2">As on the ground it lay;<br /></span> -<span class="i0">He cut full deep, therein to creep,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">And tarry till the day.<br /></span> -</div><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">"The winds did blow, fast fell the snow,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">And darker grew the night,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Then well he wot he hope might not<br /></span> -<span class="i2">Again to see the light.<br /></span> -</div><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">"So with his finger dipp'd in blood,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">He scrabbled on the stones—<br /></span> -<span class="i0">'This is my will, God it fulfil,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">And buried be my bones.<br /></span> -</div><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">"'Whoe'er it be that findeth me,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">And brings me to a grave;<br /></span> -<span class="i0">The lands that now to me belong<br /></span> -<span class="i2">In Plymstock he shall have.'"<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_203" id="Page_203">[Pg 203]</a></span></p> -<p>The story goes on to say that when the monks -of Buckfast heard of this they made ready to transport -the body to their monastery. But the monks -of Tavistock were beforehand with them; they threw -a bridge over the Tavy, ever after called Guile -Bridge, and carried the dead Childe to their abbey. -Thenceforth they possessed the Plymstock estate.</p> - -<p>The kistvaen is, of course, not Childe's grave, for -it is prehistoric, and Childe was not buried there. -But the cross may have been set up to mark the spot -where he was found.</p> - -<p>Childe's Cross was quite perfect, standing on a -three-stepped pedestal, till in or about 1812, when it -was nearly destroyed by the workmen of a Mr. -Windeatt, who was building a farmhouse near by. -The stones that composed it have, however, been for -the most part recovered, and the cross has been -restored as well as might be under the circumstances.</p> - -<p>The Sandy Way was doubtless a very ancient track -across the moor from east to west, as it is marked -by crosses, as may be judged by the Ordnance map. -1, Horne's Cross; 2 and 3, crosses on Down Ridge; -4 and 5, crosses on Terhill; 6 and 7, crosses near Fox -Tor, in the Newtake; 8, Childe's Cross; 9, Seward's -or Nun's Cross; 10, cross on Walkhampton Common.</p> - -<p>Swincombe, formerly Swan-combe, runs to the -north of the ridge, and has the sources of its river -in the Fox Tor mires and near Childe's Tomb.</p> - -<p>It runs north-east, and then abruptly passes north -to decant into the West Dart.</p> - -<p>Near this is Gobbetts Mine, a very interesting<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204">[Pg 204]</a></span> -spot, for here are samples of the modern deep mining -shaft, the shallow workings, and the deep, open cuttings -of the earlier times, and the stream works of -the "old men." Thus we have on one spot a compendium -of the history of mining for tin. Among -the relics lying about are the remains of an old -crazing-mill, consisting of the upper and the nether -stones. The nether stone is 3 feet 10 inches in -diameter, and 10 inches thick. In the periphery is a -groove forming a lip, that served readily to discharge -the ground material.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"> -<img src="images/p204.jpg" width="550" height="444" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p>CRAZING-MILL STONE, UPPER GOBBETTS.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The upper stone has a roughly convex back, and -an eye as well as four holes drilled in it. Into these<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_205" id="Page_205">[Pg 205]</a></span> -holes posts were fitted, which carried two bars, so -that the stone was made to revolve by horse or man -power, like the arrangement of a capstan.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> -<img src="images/p205.jpg" width="700" height="307" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p>METHOD OF USING THE MILL-STONES. SECTION.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The hole or eye of the nether stone was for the -purpose of receiving a conical plug, the apex of -which penetrated partly into the eye of the upper -stone, and served the double purpose of keeping the -runner stone in position and of distributing the feed -equally on the grinding-surfaces. To further assist -this are four curved master-furrows or grooves, radiating -from the eye of the grinding-surface of the upper -stone. The mill, worked by men or by horses, was -of slow speed, and water was introduced to assist -the propulsion of the ground material towards the -grooved lip in the periphery of the stone. This and -the feed were, of course, introduced through the -circular hole in the top stone.</p> - -<p>On the site of what was evidently the blowing-house -is a mould-stone, about 4 feet by 3. The -mould is 15 inches long by 11 inches wide at one<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_206" id="Page_206">[Pg 206]</a></span> -end, and 10 inches at the other, and 4 to 5 inches -deep. There are also cavities for sample ingots.</p> - -<p>Other stones lie about with hollows worked in -them, that seem to have been mortar-stones, used -for pounding up the ore, at a period earlier than that -at which the crazing-mill was introduced.</p> - -<p>Further up the Swincombe, on the left, a little -stream descends that has had its bed turned over -and over. This is Deep Swincombe, and here are -the remains of the earliest known smelting-house -yet noticed on Dartmoor. It has been fully described -in a previous chapter. On all sides we -discover traces of those who in ancient times came -to Dartmoor and toiled after metal. We go in -swarms there now—to spend our metal and idle and -gain health. So the old order changeth, and with -it men's moods and manners.</p> - -<p>To return to Holne. In the parsonage Charles -Kingsley was born, but the house has since been to -a large extent rebuilt. On a fly-sheet of the Book of -Burial Registers is the entry, "The Vicarage House, -being very <em>dilapidated</em>, was taken down and rebuilt -by the Vicar (the Rev. John D. Parham) in the year -1832." It was in that "very dilapidated" house that -Charles Kingsley was born.</p> - -<p>A curious custom existed at Holne, now given up. -There is, near the village, a "Ploy (play) Field" in -which stood formerly a rude granite stone six or -seven feet high.</p> - -<p>On May morning, before daybreak, the young men -of the village were wont to assemble there and then -proceed to the moor, where they selected a ram lamb,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_207" id="Page_207">[Pg 207]</a></span> -and, after running it down, brought it in triumph -to the Ploy Field, fastened it to the granite post, cut -its throat, and then roasted it whole—skin, wool, etc. -At midday a struggle took place, at the risk of cut -hands, for a slice, it being supposed to confer luck -for the ensuing year on the fortunate devourer. As -an act of gallantry the young men sometimes fought -their way through the crowd to get a slice for the -chosen amongst the young women, all of whom, in -their best dresses, attended the Ram Feast, as it -was called. Dancing, wrestling, and other games, -assisted by copious libations of cider during the -afternoon, prolonged the festivity till midnight. This -is now entirely of the past, but a somewhat similar -popular festival survives at King's Teignton, or did -so till recently. There Whitsuntide is the season -chosen. A lamb is drawn about the parish on -Whitsun Monday in a cart covered with garlands -of lilac, laburnum, and other flowers, when persons -are requested to give something towards the animal -and attendant expenses. On Tuesday morning it is -killed and roasted whole in the middle of the village. -The lamb is then sold in slices to the poor at a -cheap rate. The story told to account for this -festival is that the village once suffered from a -dearth of water, when the inhabitants were advised -to pray for water; whereupon a fountain burst forth -in a meadow about a third of a mile above the river, -in an estate now called Rydon, a supply sufficient -to meet the necessities of the villagers. A lamb, -it is said, has ever since been sacrificed as a return -offering at Whitsuntide in the manner above mentioned.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_208" id="Page_208">[Pg 208]</a></span></p> - -<p>The said water appears like a large pond, from -which in rainy weather may be seen jets springing -up some inches above the surface in many parts.</p> - -<p>I know the case of a farmer on the edge of -Dartmoor, whose cattle were afflicted with some -disorder in 1879; he thereupon conveyed a sheep to -the ridge above his house, sacrificed and burnt it -there, as an offering to the Pysgies. The cattle at -once began to recover, and did well after, nor were -there any fresh cases of sickness amongst them. -Since then I have been told of other and very -similar cases.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_209" id="Page_209">[Pg 209]</a></span></p> -<div class="chapter"></div> -<hr class="chap" /> - - - - -<h2>CHAPTER XIV.<br /> - -IVYBRIDGE</h2> - -<div class="hangindent"> - -<p>The moors on the south not bold—South Brent—Destruction of the -screen—The Avon—Zeal Plains crowded with prehistoric remains—The -Abbots' Way—Huntingdon's Cross—Petre's Cross—Hobajohn's -Cross—Stone row—Remains upon Erme Plains—The -Staldon stone row—Other rows—Beehive huts—Harford -church—Hall—The Duchess of Kingston—The Yealm valley—Blowing-houses—Long -wall—Hawns and Dendles—The tripper -and ferns—Wisdome—Slade—Fardell—The Fardell Stone.</p></div> - - -<p class="drop-capw"><span class="smcap">This</span> not very interesting spot may be chosen -as a centre whence the Avon, Erme, and Yealm -river valleys may be explored. The distances are -considerable, but the railway facilitates reaching -starting-points—South Brent for the Avon, and -Cornwood for the Yealm. It is advisable to ascend -one river, cross a ridge, and descend another river.</p> - -<p>The moors on this, the south, side are by no means -so bold as are those on the other sides, but the valleys -are hardly to be surpassed for beauty; and they give -access to very remarkable groups of antiquities, the -distance to some of which beyond inclosed land, -and the absence of roads on this part of the moor -has saved these latter from destruction.</p> - -<p>In Ivybridge itself there is absolutely nothing -worth seeing, but the churches of Ugborough and -Ermington richly deserve a visit; and there are<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_210" id="Page_210">[Pg 210]</a></span> -some old manor houses, as Fardell, Fillham, Slade, -and Fowelscombe, that may be seen with interest. -We will begin with the valley of the Avon.</p> - -<p>South Brent is dominated by Brent Hill, that -was formerly crowned with a chapel dedicated to -S. Michael. The parish church, a foundation of -S. Petrock, possessed a fine carved oak screen. -The church has, however, been taken in hand by -that iconoclast the "restorer," who has left it empty, -swept and garnished—a thing of nakedness and a -woe for ever. The screen—the one glory of the -church—was cast forth into the graveyard, and there -allowed to rot.</p> - -<p>The Avon foams down from the moor through a -contracted throat, affording scenes of great beauty -in its ravine. It receives the Glazebrook some way -below South Brent, and the Bala about the same -distance above it.</p> - -<p>The river has to be ascended for two miles and -a half before Shipley Bridge is reached, and then -the moor is in front of one, with Zeal Plains spread -out, strewn with prehistoric settlements that have -not as yet been properly investigated.</p> - -<p>The Abbots' Way, a track from Buckfast to -Tavistock, crosses the Avon at Huntingdon's Cross, -a rude un-chamfered stone four feet and a half high. -It stands immediately within the forest bounds. The -moors already traversed are the commons of Brent -and Dean. The cross is romantically situated in -a rocky basin, the rising ground about it covered -with patches of heather, with here and there a granite -boulder protruding through the turf.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_211" id="Page_211">[Pg 211]</a></span></p> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>"All around is still and silent, save the low murmuring -of the waters as they run over their pebbly bed. The only -signs of life are the furry inhabitants of the warren, and, -perchance, a herd of Dartmoor ponies, wild as the country -over which they roam, and a few sheep or cattle grazing on -the slopes. The cross is surrounded by rushes, and a -dilapidated wall—the warren enclosure—runs near it."<a name="FNanchor_18_18" id="FNanchor_18_18"></a><a href="#Footnote_18_18" class="fnanchor">[18]</a></p></div> - -<p>The Abbots' Way may here be distinctly seen -ascending the left bank of the Avon.</p> - -<p>On Quick Beam Hill, over which the Abbots' Way -climbs to reach the valley of the Erme, is another -cross, concerning which something must be said, as -it shows that not only educated and intelligent architects -are iconoclasts, but also illiterate and stupid -workmen.</p> - -<p>There is a cairn that bears the name of Whitaburrow, -and till the year 1847, erect on it in the -centre stood an old grey moorstone cross. In that -year a company was formed to extract naphtha from -the peat, and its works were established near Shipley -Bridge, to which the peat was conveyed from this -spot in tram-waggons.</p> - -<p>There being no place of shelter near, the labourers -erected a house on the summit of the cairn, which -measures one hundred and ninety feet in circumference, -and requiring a large stone as a support -for their chimney-breast, they knocked off the arms -of the cross and employed the shaft for that purpose. -The house has disappeared with the exception of the -foundations and about three feet in height of walling,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_212" id="Page_212">[Pg 212]</a></span> -but the poor old maimed shaft stands there aloft, just -as the poor old maimed church of South Brent stands -on the river far below. Each has lost that which -made it significant and beautiful, each mutilated by -the stupidity of man.</p> - -<p>The cross takes its name from Sir William Petre -of Tor Brian, who possessed certain rights over -Brent Moor. He was Secretary of State in four -reigns—those of Henry VIII., Edward VI., Mary, and -Elizabeth—and seems to have conformed to whichever -religion was favoured by the Sovereign, like the -Vicar of Bray. He died in 1571, and was the -ancestor of the present Lord Petre.</p> - -<p>On Ugborough Moor, that adjoins, is a third cross, -called that of Hobajohn, which is planted, singularly -enough, in the midst of a stone row. This row -starts on Butterdon Hill, above Ivybridge, and passes -within a short distance of Sharp Tor. I have not -seen it, but learn that it, like most other stone rows, -starts from a cairn inclosed within upright stones. -It must, if really a stone row, be something like -three miles in length. The cross has also been -mutilated, and lies prostrate.</p> - -<p>A fourth cross, Spurle's or Pearl's Cross, on -Ugborough Moor, has lost its shaft.</p> - -<p>The Abbots' Way from Avon valley leads to the -Erme valley, where Redlake enters it at a very -interesting point. Here, at the junction of this -feeder, is a well-preserved blowing-house, with its -wheel-pit and with its tin-moulds lying in the ruins.</p> - -<p>The whole of Erme Plains and the valley for three -miles down is simply crowded with hut circles,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_213" id="Page_213">[Pg 213]</a></span> -pounds, and other remains. On the height above, -Staldon Moor, is a stone row of really astounding -length, of which something has been already said. -It starts at the south end from a large circle, which -formerly inclosed a cairn, and stretches away to -the north, over hill and down dale, for two miles -and a quarter, and terminates in a kistvaen. The -stones are not large, but the row is fairly intact.</p> - -<p>Due south of this, on the south side of the highest -point of Stall Moor, Staldon Barrow, are two more -stone rows, almost, but not quite, in a line. In the -neighbourhood are many cairns and kistvaens. -The stones here are larger. Taken together the -rows run over 1,400 feet. They can be seen from -Cornwood Station when the light is favourable.</p> - -<p>Again another row on Burford Down, a continuation -of the same moor, starts from a circle containing -a kistvaen near Tristis Rock, and stretches away -north to a wall and across an inclosed field, but here -it has been sadly pillaged for the construction of the -wall. It still runs 1,500 feet. The Erme valley has -been much worked by streamers, and some of the -mining operations have been carried on at a comparatively -recent period.</p> - -<p>By the side of a little lateral gully on the right -hand in descending the river is a beehive hut among -the streamers' mounds; it is quite intact, and shelter -may be taken in it from a passing storm. It is, -however, not prehistoric, but is a miners' <em>cache</em>.</p> - -<p>Another, also perfect, is a little further down, on -the other side of the river before reaching Piles -Wood.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_214" id="Page_214">[Pg 214]</a></span></p> - -<p>Harford church, another foundation of S. Petrock, -stands high. It contains nothing of interest except -an altar tomb with brasses upon it, in memory of -Thomas Williams, Speaker of the House of Commons, -of the family of that name formerly resident at -Stowford, in the parish. And in the second place, a -monument to John and Agnes Prideaux, the parents -of John Prideaux, Bishop of Worcester. This was -set up by the latter in 1639.</p> - -<p>Hall, not far from the church, was for some time -the residence of the notorious Elizabeth Chudleigh, -Duchess of Kingston, who was tried and condemned -for bigamy. It was a hard case. She was born in -1726, and was the daughter of Colonel Thomas -Chudleigh, who died when Elizabeth was quite a -child. In 1744, when she was aged only eighteen, -she visited her maternal aunt, Anne Hanmer, at -Lainston, near Winchester, met at the Winchester -Races Lieutenant Hervey, second son of Lord Hervey, -and grandson of the Earl of Bristol, who was then -aged twenty. He was invited to Lainston, and one -night in a foolish frolic, at eleven o'clock, with the -connivance, if not at the instigation, of Mrs. Hanmer, -Elizabeth was married to Lieutenant Hervey by the -rector in the little roofless ruin of a church. No -registers were signed, and the bridegroom left in -two days to rejoin his ship, and sailed for the West -Indies.</p> - -<p>She never after that received Lieutenant Hervey -as her husband, and he instituted a suit in the -Consistory Court of the Bishop of London for the -jactitation of the marriage, and sentence was given<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_215" id="Page_215">[Pg 215]</a></span> -in 1769 declaring that the marriage form gone -through in 1744 was null and void. On the -strength of this Elizabeth married the Duke of -Kingston, March 8, 1769.</p> - -<p>No attempt was made during the lifetime of the -Duke to dispute the legality of the union; neither -he nor Elizabeth had the least doubt that the former -marriage had been legally dissolved. But when the -Duke left all his great fortune to Elizabeth, then his -nephews were furious, and raked up against her the -charge of bigamy, on the grounds that the sentence -of the Consistory Court was invalid. She was tried -in Westminster Hall before her peers in 1776, and -the trial lasted five days.</p> - -<p>The penalty for bigamy was death, but she could -escape this sentence by claiming the benefit of a -statute of William and Mary, which commuted -death to branding in the hand and imprisonment. -The peers found her guilty, but she escaped punishment -by flying to the Continent, where she died -in 1788.<a name="FNanchor_19_19" id="FNanchor_19_19"></a><a href="#Footnote_19_19" class="fnanchor">[19]</a></p> - -<p>Harford Hall, where she resided, has about it no -architectural features; it never can have been other -than a small mansion, and is now a mere farmhouse. -The trees around it alone indicate that it was at one -time a gentleman's seat.</p> - -<p>If now we strike across Stall Moor to the Yealm -we come on Yealm Steps, where the river falls over -a mass of granite débris. Here are two blowing-houses,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_216" id="Page_216">[Pg 216]</a></span> -one above the steps and the other below. -The lower house on the eastern side of the stream -is a mere heap of ruins with, however, the door-jamb -standing and facing the north.<a name="FNanchor_20_20" id="FNanchor_20_20"></a><a href="#Footnote_20_20" class="fnanchor">[20]</a> No wheel-pit is -visible, but there are traces of a watercourse at a -high level to the north-east of the hut. Near the -entrance is a stone with one perfect mould in it, and -another imperfect. A second mould-stone is lying -near an angle in the eastern wall of the house. It -has in it two moulds adjoining each other—one at -a lower level than the other, and connected by a -channel. The high-level cavity is 15 inches long, -8 inches wide, and 3 inches deep. At one end is -a groove one inch deep, perpendicular, and running -down the side of the mould three inches; that is, -from top to bottom.</p> - -<p>The low-level mould is 17 inches long, 12 inches -wide, and 5 inches deep. These cavities have been -used for the purification of tin, for the molten metal -mixed with furnace impurities poured in on the -high-level hollow would flow in a purer condition -into the low-level mould.</p> - -<p>This blowing-house has been excavated, somewhat -superficially, but nothing was found in it to give -token of the period to which it belonged. About -a quarter of a mile further up the river, but on the -western bank, is another ruin. The doorway, which -is very imperfect, is on the eastern side. One mould-stone -remains, containing a mould 17 inches long, -12 inches wide, and from 4 to 5 inches deep.</p> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_217" id="Page_217">[Pg 217]</a></span></p> -<p>The whole slope of Stall Moor towards the south -is strewn with hut circles, and between the Yealm -and Broadall Lake is a pound containing several. -On the further side of the stream is another pound, -at which begins a singular wall that extends for over -three miles as far as the Plym at Trowlesworthy -Warren. For what purpose this wall was erected—whether -as a boundary, or whether for defence—cannot -be determined. It is in connection with -several pounds and clusters of hut circles.</p> - -<p>In the valley of Hawns and Dendles is a pretty -cascade, a great haunt of the tripper, who ravages the -Yealm valley and tears up and carries off the ferns -and roots of wild flowers.</p> - -<p>A few instances of the habits of the tripper may -not seem amiss, as exhibited in the Yealm valley.</p> - -<p>Blachford was the residence of the late Lord -Blachford, the friend of Gladstone.</p> - -<p>One day my lady saw a woman—a tripper—in -front of the house, where there is a rockery, tearing -up ferns. Lady Blachford rushed forth to interfere.</p> - -<p>"Oh!" said the tripper, "I only did it so as to get -a sight of Lord Blachford. I thought if I executed -some mischief I might draw him forth."</p> - -<p>A peculiarly fine rhododendron grew in front of the -vicarage. It attracted the tripper by its beautiful -masses of flower. One evening an individual of -this not uncommon species proceeded to tear it up, -assisted by trowel and knife; and finally having -hacked through the roots, carried it off; but finding -the load burdensome at the first hill, threw it away.</p> - -<p>A gentleman residing further down the valley was<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_218" id="Page_218">[Pg 218]</a></span> -cultivating a rare flowering shrub. After seven years -it put forth its tassels of bloom. He tarried a day -or two before gathering the blossoms till they were -fully out. His wife was an invalid, and he purposed -showing them to her when in their full perfection. -But before he carried his purpose into execution, he -went to Cornwood Station to meet a friend, when -he perceived a "lady" on the platform with her -hands full of the flowers. He approached her and -civilly inquired where she had obtained the beautiful -bunches.</p> - -<p>"Oh! they were growing in Mr. P.'s ground, so -I went in and gathered them. I know Mr. P. well, -and I am convinced he would not object."</p> - -<p>"You have the advantage of me, madam. I am -Mr. P. But to a lady, as to a Christian, all things -are lawful, though all things may not be expedient."</p> - -<p>A friend threw open his grounds to a great party -of school teachers and their scholars. The neighbourhood -had been denuded of the <i lang="la">Osmunda regalis</i> -by the tripper, but the beautiful fern had a sanctuary -in his preserves. However, the visitors dug up, tore -away, and destroyed his plants wholesale, and returned -to town burdened with the wreckage. The -<em>Osmunda</em> is a slow grower, and takes many years -to reach maturity.</p> - -<p>So much for the tripper. I do not in the least -suppose any of this race will see more of my book -than the outside. But I write this for the intelligent -visitor, to warn him against Hawns and Dendles -on Plymouth early closing day (Wednesday) in -summer.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_219" id="Page_219">[Pg 219]</a></span></p> - -<p>Wisdome is the ancestral house of the Rogers -family, of which the late Lord Blachford was the representative. -It is a modest, picturesque old moorland -mansion of a small gentle family. Slade, on the -other hand, must have been a house of consequence; -it still possesses a noble hall, with richly carved -oak wainscotting. Steart has handsome carved -armorial gates; and Fardell is remarkable as a home -of the Raleigh family, and had its licensed chapel. -The grandfather of the navigator lived at Fardell, -and Sir Walter himself was probably there much -in his early days. Here was found an ogham -inscription on a stone, now in the British Museum, -which shows that the Irish had conquered and -colonised Devon as far south as Cornwood. Other -oghams have been found at Tavistock, and at -Lewannick, near Launceston.</p> - -<p>According to local belief, the stone indicated -where treasure was hid; and a jingle was current -in the neighbourhood:—</p> - -<div class="center"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">"Between this stone and Fardell Hall<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Lies as much money as the devil can haul."<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>The stone bore the inscription, "Fanonii Macquisini" -on one side, and "Sapanni" on the other. -The "Mac" in the name is conclusively Irish, as -also the oghams.</p> - -<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_18_18" id="Footnote_18_18"></a><a href="#FNanchor_18_18"><span class="label">[18]</span></a> <span class="smcap">Crossing</span>, <cite>Ancient Crosses of Dartmoor</cite>, p. 15.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_19_19" id="Footnote_19_19"></a><a href="#FNanchor_19_19"><span class="label">[19]</span></a> I have told her story in full in <cite>Historic Oddities and Strange -Events</cite>. Methuen and Co., 1889.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_20_20" id="Footnote_20_20"></a><a href="#FNanchor_20_20"><span class="label">[20]</span></a> This is the scene chosen by me for my story <cite>Guavas the Tinner</cite>.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_220" id="Page_220">[Pg 220]</a></span></p></div></div> -<div class="chapter"></div> -<hr class="chap" /> - - - - -<h2>CHAPTER XV.<br /> - -YELVERTON</h2> - -<div class="hangindent"> - -<p>Yelverton or Elford-town—Longstone—The Elfords—"The Silly -Doe"—Mr. Collier on otter-hunting—Sheeps Tor church—The -reservoir—The old vicarage—The Bull-ring—Rajah Brooke—Roman's -Cross—The Deancombe valley—Coaches—Down Tor -stone row—Nun's Cross—Roundy Farm—Clakeywell Pool—Strange -voices—Leather Tor—Drizzlecombe and its remains—Old -customs at Sheeps Tor—Meavy—Church—Marchant's Cross—China-clay -and William Cookworthy—The Dewerstone—The -Wild Huntsman—Tavistock.</p></div> - - -<p class="drop-capw"><span class="smcap">Yelverton</span> is a corruption of Elford-town. -The mansion near the station was formerly a -seat of the Elfords of Sheeps Tor. The family is -now extinct, at least in the neighbourhood where -at one time it was of dignity and well estated. -Yelverton is itself a mere collection of villa residences -of Plymouth men of business, but it forms -a convenient point of departure for many interesting -expeditions.</p> - -<p>The principal residence of the Elfords was at -Longstone, in Sheeps Tor, where the old house -remains little altered, and where the <em>windstrew</em> -should be seen, a granite platform, raised above the -field, on which thrashing could be carried on by -the aid of the winds that carried away the chaff.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> -<img src="images/p220.jpg" width="700" height="471" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p>THE DEWERSTONE</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_221" id="Page_221">[Pg 221]</a></span></p> - -<p>The tor which gives its name to the village and -parish stands by itself, and rises to about 1,200 feet. -It is a picturesque hill, and only needs the addition -of another couple of hundred put to its elevation -to make it perfect.</p> - -<p>The basin below the village was anciently a lake, -the water being retained by a barrier of rock where -stands now the dam for the reservoir. This, in time, -was silted up to the depth of ninety feet, and now -the Plymouth Corporation, by the construction of a -fine and eminently picturesque barrier across the -narrow gorge through which the Meavy flows, have -reconverted this basin into a lake.</p> - -<p>Near the summit of the tor is the Pixy Cave, in -which Squire Elford remained concealed whilst the -Roundheads searched Longstone for him. Some -faithful tenants in the village kept him supplied with -food till pursuit was at an end. The Elfords inherited -Longstone from the Scudamores at the close -of the fifteenth century. The parish was then called -Shettes Tor, from the Celtic <em>syth</em>, steep; but the -name has been altered in this or last century. The -last Elford of Sheeps Tor was John, who married -Admonition Prideaux, and died without issue in 1748, -his six children having predeceased him. A side -branch of the family—to which, however, Sheeps Tor -did not fall—produced Sir William Elford, Bart., of -Bickham, but he died in 1837, without male issue, -and the title became extinct. His monument is in -Totnes church.</p> - -<p>A man named Cole, working at the granite quarries -at Merrivale Bridge, a few years ago sang me a song -concerning a doe that escaped from Elford Park, which -was probably situated where is now Yelverton.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_222" id="Page_222">[Pg 222]</a></span></p> - -<div class="center"> -<p>THE SILLY DOE</p> - -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">Give ear unto my mournful song<br /></span> -<span class="i2">Gay huntsmen every one,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">And unto you I will relate<br /></span> -<span class="i2">My sad and doleful moan.<br /></span> -<span class="i0">O here I be a silly Doe,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">From Elford Park I strayed,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">In leaving of my company<br /></span> -<span class="i2">Myself to death betrayed.<br /></span> -</div><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">The master said I must be slain<br /></span> -<span class="i2">For 'scaping from his bounds:<br /></span> -<span class="i0">"O keeper, wind the hunting horn,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">And chase him with your hounds."<br /></span> -<span class="i0">A Duke of royal blood was there,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">And hounds of noble race;<br /></span> -<span class="i0">They gathered in a rout next day,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">And after me gave chase.<br /></span> -</div><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">They roused me up one winter morn,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">The frost it cut my feet,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">My red, red blood came trickling down,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">And made the scent lie sweet.<br /></span> -<span class="i0">For many a mile they did me run,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">Before the sun went down,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Then I was brought to give a teen,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">And fall upon the groun'.<br /></span> -</div><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">The first rode up, it was the Duke:<br /></span> -<span class="i2">Said he, "I'll have my will!"<br /></span> -<span class="i0">A blade from out his belt he drew<br /></span> -<span class="i2">My sweet red blood to spill.<br /></span> -<span class="i0">So with good cheer they murdered me,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">As I lay on the ground;<br /></span> -<span class="i0">My harmless life it bled away,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">Brave huntsmen cheering round.<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_223" id="Page_223">[Pg 223]</a></span></p> -<p>I am a little puzzled as to whether the dry sarcasm -in this song is intentional.<a name="FNanchor_21_21" id="FNanchor_21_21"></a><a href="#Footnote_21_21" class="fnanchor">[21]</a> The melody is peculiarly -sweet and plaintive. <em>When</em> a royal duke hunted last -on Dartmoor I have been unable to ascertain.</p> - -<p>The red deer were anciently common on Dartmoor. -It was not till King John's reign that Devon was -disafforested, with the exception of Dartmoor and -Exmoor. But the deer were mischievous to the -crops of the farmer, and to the young plantations, -and farmers, yeomen, and squires combined to get -rid of them from Dartmoor. Still, however, occasionally -one runs from Exmoor and takes refuge in -the woods about the Dart, the Plym, and the Tavy.</p> - -<p>But it is for fox, hare, and otter hunting that the -sportsman goes to Dartmoor, and not for the deer. -A very pretty sight it is to see a pack with the -scarlet coats after it sweeping over the moorside in -pursuit of Reynard, and to hear the music of the -hounds and horns.</p> - -<p>For the harriers the great week is that after hare-hunting -is at an end in the lowlands or "in-country." -Then the several packs that have hunted through the -season on the circumference of the moor unite on it, -and take turns through the week on the moor itself. -The great day of that week is Bellever Day, when -the meet is on the tor of that name. I have described -it in my <cite>Book of the West</cite>, and will not repeat -what has been already related. But I will venture to -quote an account of otter-hunting on the Dart from -the pen of Mr. William Collier, than whom no one<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_224" id="Page_224">[Pg 224]</a></span> -has been more of an enthusiast for sport on the -moor.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>"The West Dart is the perfection of a Dartmoor river, -flowing bright and rapid over a bed of granite boulders -richly covered with moss and lichen, its banks bedecked -with ferns and wild flowers of the moor, and fringed with -the bog-myrtle and withy.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> -<img src="images/p224.jpg" width="700" height="471" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p>SHEEPS TOR</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_225" id="Page_225">[Pg 225]</a></span></p> - -<p>"Water holds scent well, and the whiff so fragrant to the -nose of the hound rises to the surface and floats down -stream, calling forth his musical chant of praise. For this -reason otter-hunters draw up stream, and before the lair of -the otter is reached the welkin rings with the music of the -pack. The otter has left his trail on the banks, and on the -stones where he has landed when fishing, his spoor can be -seen freshly printed on a sandy nook, and he is very likely -to be found in a well-known and remarkably safe holt, as -they call it in the West, about half a mile above Dart Meet, -which he shares at times with foxes, though his access to it -is under water, and theirs, of course, above. If he were -but wise enough to stay there he might defy his legitimate -enemies to do their worst. But he knows not man or his -little ways, and he has heard the unwonted strain of the -hounds as they have been crying over his footsteps hard -by. They mark him in his retreat, and the whole pack -proclaim that he is in the otter's parlour, the strongest -place on the river. It is in a large rock hanging over a -deep, dark pool, in a corner made by a turn in the river, -with an old battered oak tree growing somehow from the -midst, and backed by a confused jumble of granite blocks. -The artist and the fisherman both admire this spot, though -for totally different reasons, but the hunter likes it not, for -he knows too well that if he runs the fox or the otter here -his sport is over. A fox or an otter if run here is likely to -stay; he has experienced the dangers and wickedness of -the world at large; but if found here in his quiet and -repose he takes alarm at the unusual turmoil, and incontinently -bolts. The otter is known to have a way in under -water, where no terrier can go, and he is so far safer than -the fox. The most arduous otter-hunters, therefore, when -the hounds mark, plunge up to their necks in the water to -frighten him out with their otter-poles. He has long known -the Dart as a quiet, peaceable, happy hunting-ground; and -he makes the fatal mistake of bolting, little recking what a -harrying awaits him for the next four hours. There immediately -arises a yell of 'Hoo-gaze!' the view halloo of -the otter-hunter, probably an older English hunting halloo -than 'Tally ho!' and the din of the hounds and terriers, the -human scream, and the horn, like Bedlam broken loose, -which he hears behind him, make him hurry up-stream as -best he may. The master of the hounds, if he knows his -business, will now call for silence, and, taking out his -watch, will give the otter what he calls a quarter of an -hour's law. It is wonderful how fond sportsmen are of -law; perhaps there is an affinity between prosecuting -a case and pursuing a chase. He wants the otter to go -well away from his parlour, and his object for the rest of -the day will be to keep him out of it. If he is a real -good sporting otter-hunter he will tell his field that he -wants his hounds to kill the otter without assistance from -them; for in the West of England the vice of mobbing -the otter is too common, with half the field in the water, -hooting, yelling, poking with otter-poles, mixing the wrong -scent (their own) with the right, making the water muddy, -and turning the river into a brawling brook with a vengeance. -The true otter-hunter only wants his huntsman -and whip, and perhaps a very knowing and trustworthy -friend, besides himself, to help in hunting the otter <em>with<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_226" id="Page_226">[Pg 226]</a></span> -his hounds</em>, and not with men. The master gives the chase -a good quarter of an hour by the clock; and, leaving the -unearthly, or perhaps too earthly sounds behind him, the -otter makes up-stream as fast as he can go. It is surprising -how far an otter can get in the time, but fear lends speed -to his feet. Then begins the prettiest part of the sport. -The hounds are laid on, they dash into the river, and -instantly open in full cry. The water teems with the scent -of the otter; but the deep pools, rapid stickles, and rocky -boulders over which the river foams hinder the pace. There -is ample time to admire the spirit-stirring and beautiful -scene. The whole pack swimming a black-looking pool -under a beetling tor in full chorus; now and then an encouraging -note on the horn; the echoes of the deep valley; -the foaming and roaring Dart flowing down from above; -the rich colour from the fern, the gorse, the heather, the -moss, and the wild flowers; a few scattered weather-beaten -oaks and fir trees, and the stately tors aloft, striking on the -eye and ear, make one feel that otter-hunting on Dartmoor -is indeed a sport.</p> - -<p>"The Dart is a large river, for a Dartmoor stream, and -presents many obstacles to the hounds; but they pursue -the chase for some distance, and at length stop and mark, -as they did before. The otter has got out of hearing, and -has rested in a lair known to him under the river-bank. -The terriers and an otter-pole dislodge him, and the sport -becomes fast and furious. He is seen in all directions, -sometimes apparently in two places at once, which makes -the novice think there are two or three otters afoot. -'Hoo-gaze!' is now often heard, as one or another -catches sight of him, and the field become very noisy -and excited. It is still the object to run him up-stream, -whilst he now finds it easier to swim down. 'Look out -below!' is therefore heard in the fine voice of the master.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_227" id="Page_227">[Pg 227]</a></span> -There is a trusty person down-stream watching a shallow -stickle, where the otter must be seen if he passes. Suddenly -the clamour ceases, and silence prevails. The otter -has mysteriously disappeared, and he has to be fresh found. -The master is in no hurry. There is too much scent in -the water of various sorts, and he will be glad to pause -till it has floated away. He takes his hounds down-stream. -The trusty man says the otter has not passed; but this -makes no difference. Some way further down, with a -wave of his hand, he sends all the hounds into the river -again with a dash. They draw up-stream again, pass the -trusty man still at his post, and reach the spot where the -otter vanished. The river is beautifully clear again, and -an old hound marks. A good hour, perhaps, has been lost, -or rather spent, since the otter disappeared, and here he -has been in one of his under-water dry beds. He is -routed out by otter-poles, and liveliness again prevails, -especially when he takes to the land to get down-stream -by cutting off a sharp curve in the river—a way he has -learnt in his frogging expeditions—and the hounds run him -then like a fox. He is only too glad to plunge headlong -into the river again, and he has reached it below the trusty -man, who, however, goes down to the next shallow, and -takes with him some others to turn the otter up from his -safe parlour. They are hunting him now in a long deep -pool, where he shifts from bank to bank, moving under -water whilst the hounds swim above. He has a large -supply of air in his lungs, which he vents as he uses it, -and which floats to the surface in a series of bubbles. -Otter-hunters calls it his chain, and it follows him wherever -he goes, betraying his track in the muddiest water. He -craftily puts his nose, his nose only, up to get a fresh -supply of air now and then, under a bush or behind a -rock, and then owners of sharp eyes call 'Hoo-gaze!' He<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_228" id="Page_228">[Pg 228]</a></span> -finds himself in desperate straits, and he makes up his -mind to go for his parlour at all hazards; but the hounds -catch sight of him in the shallow of the trusty man, and -the chase comes to an end. Otters are never speared in -the West."<a name="FNanchor_22_22" id="FNanchor_22_22"></a><a href="#Footnote_22_22" class="fnanchor">[22]</a></p></div> - -<p>And now to return to Sheeps Tor and the picturesque -village that nestles under it.</p> - -<p>The one building-stone is granite, grey and soft -of tone. The village is small, and consists of a few -cottages about the open space before the church.</p> - -<p>This latter is of the usual moorland type, and in -the Perpendicular style. Observe above the porch -the curious carved stone, formerly forming part of a -sun-dial, and dated 1640. It represents wheat growing -out of a skull, and bears the inscription—</p> - -<p class="center">"Mors janua vitæ." -</p> - -<p>This church has most unfortunately been vulgarised -internally. It once possessed not only a magnificent -roodscreen, rich with gold and colour, but also a -fifteenth-century carved pulpit that matched with -the screen. The church was delivered over to a -Tavistock builder to make watertight, as cheaply -as might be, and he succeeded triumphantly in -transforming what was once a treasury of art into -a desolation. A few poor fragments of the screen -have been set up in the church by the vicar, with -an appeal to visitors to do something to obliterate -the infamy of its destruction by a restoration out -of what little remains. Most fortunately, working -drawings were taken of the screen before its destruction. -I give not only a drawing to scale of a bay as -it was, but also of a bay as it should be if restored, for -the vaulting had disappeared before its final ruin and -removal. Near the church stood formerly the old -vicarage, a mediæval dwelling, intact, with its oak, -nail-studded door and its panelled walls. This also -has been destroyed.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 556px;"> -<img src="images/p228.jpg" width="556" height="700" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p>PORTION OF SCREEN, SHEEPS TOR</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_229" id="Page_229">[Pg 229]</a></span></p> - -<p>What of old times still remains is the bull-ring to -the south-east of the church. On the churchyard -wall sat the principal parishioners, as in a dress circle. -Near by is S. Leonard's Well, but it possesses no -architectural interest.</p> - -<p>In Burra Tor Wood is a pretty waterfall. Burra Tor -was the residence of Rajah Brooke when in England. -It had been presented to him by the Baroness -Burdett Coutts and other admirers. In Sheeps Tor -churchyard he lies, but Burra Tor has been sold since -his death.</p> - -<p>Above the wood stands Roman's Cross, probably -called after S. Rumon or Ruan, whose body lay at -Tavistock. There is another Rumon's Cross on Lee -Moor.</p> - -<p>The drive from Douseland round Yennadon, above -the dam and the reservoir, to Sheeps Tor village, -is hardly to be surpassed for beauty anywhere on -the moor.</p> - -<p>A walk that will richly repay the pedestrian is -one up the valley of the Narra Tor Brook, between -Sheeps Tor and Down Tor. He follows the Devonport -leat till he reaches the turn on the right to -Nosworthy Bridge. He passes Vinneylake, where<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_230" id="Page_230">[Pg 230]</a></span> -are two interesting <em>caches</em>, one cut out of the conglomerate -rubble brought down from the decomposed -rocks above. This is now used as a turnip-house, but -it is to be suspected it was anciently employed as a -private still-house. In a field hard by is another, -more like some of the Cornish structural fogous. It -is roofed over with slabs of granite.</p> - -<p>The ascent of Deancombe presents many peeps of -great beauty. At the farm the road comes to an -end, and here the tor must be ascended. East of -Down Tor is a very fine stone row, starting from a -circle of stones inclosing a cairn, and extending in -the direction of a large, much-disturbed cairn. There -is a blocking-stone at the eastern end, and a menhir -by the ring of stones at the west end of the row. -The length is 1,175 feet.</p> - -<p>I visited this row with the late Mr. Lukis in 1880, -when we found that men had been recently engaged -on the row with crowbars. They had thrown down -the two largest stones at the head. We appealed to -Sir Massey Lopes, and he stopped the destruction of -the monument, and since then Mr. R. Burnard and I -have re-erected the stones then thrown down.</p> - -<p>On the slope of Coombshead Tor are numerous -hut circles and a pound.</p> - -<p>From the stone row a walk along the ridge of the -moor leads to Nun's Cross. This bore on it the -inscription, "<span class="smcap">CRUX SIWARDI</span>." It is very rude; it -stands 7 feet 4 inches high, and is fixed in a socket -cut in a block of stone sunk in the ground. It was -overthrown and broken about 1846, but was restored -by the late Sir Ralph Lopes. By whom and for what -cause it was overthrown never transpired. The inscription -with the name of Siward is now difficult -to decipher. On the other side of the cross is -"<span class="smcap">BOC—LOND</span>"—three letters forming one line, and the -remaining four another, directly under it. The cross -is alluded to in a deed of 1240 as then standing.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> -<img src="images/p230.jpg" width="700" height="468" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p>ON THE MEAVY</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_231" id="Page_231">[Pg 231]</a></span></p> - -<p>Nun's Cross is probably a corruption of Nant -Cross, the cross at the head of the <em>nant</em> or valley. -The whole of Newleycombe Lake has been extensively -streamed. The hill to the north is dense with relics -of an ancient people. Roundy Farm, now in ruins, -takes its name from the pounds which contributed -to form the walls of its inclosures, many of which -follow the old circular erections that once inclosed -a primeval village. The ruined farmhouse bears the -initials of a Crymes, a family once as great as that of -the Elfords, but now gone. It is interesting to know -that the farmer's wife of Kingset, that now includes -Roundy Farm, was herself a Crymes. One very -perfect hut circle here was for long used as a potato -garden.</p> - -<p>Hard by is Clakeywell Pool, by some called Crazy-well. -It is an old mine-work, now filled with water. -It covers nearly an acre, and the banks are in part -a hundred feet high. According to popular belief, -at certain times at night a loud voice is heard calling -from the water in articulate tones, naming the next -person who is to die in the parish. At other times -what are heard are howls as of a spirit in torment. -The sounds are doubtless caused by a swirl of wind -in the basin that contains the pond. An old lady, -now deceased, told me how that as a child she<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_232" id="Page_232">[Pg 232]</a></span> -dreaded going near this tarn—she lived at Shaugh—fearing -lest she should hear the voice calling her by -name.</p> - -<p>The idea of mysterious voices is a very old one. -The schoolboy will recall the words of Virgil in the -first <cite>Georgic</cite>:—</p> - -<p class="center">"Vox ... per lucos vulgo exaudita silentes Ingens." -</p> - -<p>The "wisht hounds" that sweep overhead in the -dark barking are brent-geese going north or returning -south. They have given occasion to many stories -of strange voices in the sky.</p> - -<p>In Ceylon the devil-bird has been the source of -much superstitious terror.</p> - -<p>A friend who has long lived in Ceylon says: -"Never shall I forget when first I heard it. I was -at dinner, when suddenly the wildest, most agonised -shrieks pierced my ear. I was under the impression -that a woman was being murdered outside my house. -I snatched up a cudgel and ran forth to her aid, -but saw no one." The natives regard this cry of -the mysterious devil-bird with the utmost fear. -They believe that to hear it is a sure presage of -death; and they are not wrong. When they have -heard it, they pine to death, killed by their own conviction -that life is impossible.</p> - -<p>Autenrieth, professor and physician at Tübingen, -in 1822 published a treatise on <cite>Aërial Voices</cite>, in -which he collected a number of strange accounts of -mysterious sounds heard in the sky, and which he<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_233" id="Page_233">[Pg 233]</a></span> -thought could not all be deduced from the cries of -birds at night. He thus generalises the sounds:—</p> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>"They are heard sometimes flying in this direction, then -in the opposite through the air; mostly, they are heard as -though coming down out of the sky; but at other times as -if rising from the ground. They resemble occasionally -various musical instruments; occasionally also the clash of -arms, or the rattle of drums, or the blare of trumpets. -Sometimes they are like the tramp of horses, or the discharge -of distant artillery. But sometimes, also, they consist -in an indescribably hollow, thrilling, sudden scream. -Very commonly they resemble all kinds of animal tones, -mostly the barking of dogs. Quite as often they consist -in a loud call, so that the startled hearer believes himself -to be called by name, and to hear articulate words addressed -to him. In some instances, Greeks have believed -they were spoken to in the language of Hellas, whereas -Romans supposed they were addressed in Latin. The -modern Highlanders distinctly hear their vernacular Gaelic. -These aërial voices accordingly are so various that they -can be interpreted differently, according to the language -of the hearer, or his inner conception of what they might -say."</p></div> - -<p>The Jews call the mysterious voice that falls from -the heaven Bathkol, and have many traditions relative -to it. The sound of arms and of drums and -artillery may safely be set down to the real vibrations -of arms, drums, and artillery at a great distance, -carried by the wind.</p> - -<p>In the desert of Gobi, which divides the mountainous -snow-clad plateau of Thibet from the milder -regions of Asia, travellers assert that they have heard<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_234" id="Page_234">[Pg 234]</a></span> -sounds high up in the sky as of the clash of arms or -of musical martial instruments. If travellers fall to -the rear or get separated from the caravan, they hear -themselves called by name. If they go after the -voice that summons them, they lose themselves in -the desert. Sometimes they hear the tramp of -horses, and taking it for that of their caravan, are -drawn away, and wander from the right course and -become hopelessly lost. The old Venetian traveller -Marco Polo mentions these mysterious sounds, and -says that they are produced by the spirits that haunt -the desert. They are, however, otherwise explicable. -On a vast plain the ear loses the faculty of judging -direction and distance of sounds; it fails to possess, -so to speak, acoustic perspective. When a man has -dropped away from the caravan, his comrades call to -him; but he cannot distinguish the direction whence -their voices come, and he goes astray after them.</p> - -<p>Rubruquis, whom Louis IX. sent in 1253 to the -court of Mongu-Khan, the Mongol chief, says that -in the Altai Mountains, that fringe the desert of Gobi, -demons try to lure travellers astray. As he was -riding among them one evening with his Mongol -guide, he was exhorted by the latter to pray, because -otherwise mishaps might occur through the demons -that haunted the mountains luring them out of the -right road.</p> - -<p>Morier, the Persian traveller, at the beginning of -this century speaks of the salt desert near Khom. -On it, he says, travellers are led astray by the cry -of the goblin Ghul, who, when he has enticed them -from the road, rends them with his claws. Russian<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_235" id="Page_235">[Pg 235]</a></span> -accounts of Kiev in the beginning of the nineteenth -century mention an island lying in a salt marsh between -the Caspian and the Aral Sea, where, in the -evening, loud sounds are heard like the baying of -hounds, and hideous cries as well; consequently the -island is reputed to be haunted, and no one ventures -near it.</p> - -<p>That the Irish banshee may be traced to an owl -admits of little doubt; the description of the cries -so closely resembles what is familiar to those who -live in an owl-haunted district, as to make the -identification all but certain. Owls are capricious -birds. One can never calculate on them for hooting. -Weeks will elapse without their letting their notes -be heard, and then all at once for a night or two they -will be audible, and again become silent—even for -months.</p> - -<p>The river Dart is said to cry. The sound is a -peculiarly weird one; it is heard only when the -wind is blowing down its deep valley, and is produced -by the compression of the air in the winding -passage. Whether it is calling for its annual -tribute of a human life, I do not know, but of the -river it is said:—</p> - -<div class="center"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">"The Dart, the Dart—the cruel Dart<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Every year demands a heart!"<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>To return to our walk.</p> - -<p>If the path be taken leading back to Nosworthy -Bridge, beside and in the road will be seen several -mould-stones for tin.</p> - -<p>Leather Tor is a fine pile of ruined granite. I<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_236" id="Page_236">[Pg 236]</a></span> -have been informed that great quantities of flints -have been found there, showing that at this spot -there was a manufacturing of silex weapons and -tools.</p> - -<p>From Sheeps Tor the Drizzlecombe remains are -reached with great ease. Here, near a tributary -of the Plym, are three stone rows and two fine -menhirs, a kistvaen, a large tumulus, and beside -the stream a blowing-house with its mould-stones. -Two of the rows are single, but one is double for -a portion of its length only. There are blocking-stones -and menhirs to each. The row connected -with the great menhir is 260 feet long.</p> - -<p>Sheeps Tor has been brought into the world by -the construction of the reservoir. Formerly it was -a place very much left to itself. There the old -fiddler hung on who played venerable tunes, to -which the people danced their old country dances. -These latter may still be seen there, but, alas! the -aged fiddler is dead. At one time it was a great -musical centre, and it was asserted that two-thirds -of the male population were in the church choir, -acting either as singers or as instrumentalists.</p> - -<p>We will now turn our steps towards Meavy.</p> - -<p>Here is a house that belonged to the Drake family, -half pulled down, a village cross under a very ancient -oak, and a church in good condition.</p> - -<p>There is some very early rude carving at the -chancel arch in a pink stone, whence derived has -not been ascertained.</p> - -<p>Marchant's Cross is at the foot of the steep ascent -to Ringmoor Down. It is the tallest of all the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_237" id="Page_237">[Pg 237]</a></span> -moor crosses, being no less than 8 feet 2 inches -in height.</p> - -<p>Another cross is in the hedge on Lynch Common.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 602px;"> -<img src="images/p237.jpg" width="602" height="700" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p>CHANCEL CAPITAL, MEAVY.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Trowlesworthy Warren is situated among hut -circles and inclosures. There is a double stone -row on the southern slope, but it has been sadly -mutilated. The whole of the neighbouring moors are -strewn with primeval habitations.</p> - -<p>On Lee Moor and Headon Down may be seen the -production of kaolin.</p> - -<p>William Cookworthy, born at Kingsbridge in -Devon, in 1705, was one of a large family. His -father lost all his property in South Sea stock, -and died leaving his widow to rear the children<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_238" id="Page_238">[Pg 238]</a></span> -as best she might. They were Quakers, and help -was forthcoming from the Friends. William kept -his eyes about him, and discovered the china-clay -which is found to so large an extent in Devon -and Cornwall, and he laid the foundation of the -kaolin trade between 1745 and 1750. One of the -first places where he identified the clay was on -Tregonning Hill in S. Breage parish, Cornwall, -and to his dying day he was unaware of the -enormous deposits on Lee Moor close to his Plymouth -home.</p> - -<p>He took out a patent in 1768 for the manufacture -of Plymouth china, specimens of which are now -eagerly sought after.</p> - -<p>Kaolin is dissolved feldspar, deposited from the -granite which has yielded to atmospheric and -aqueous influences.</p> - -<p>The white clay is dug out of pits and then is -washed in tanks, in which the clayey sediment is -collected. This sediment has, however, first to be -purged of much of its mica and coarser particles -as the stream in which it is dissolved is conveyed -slowly over shallow "launders."</p> - -<p>At the bottom of the pits are plugs, and so soon -as the settled kaolin is sufficiently thick, these plugs -are withdrawn, and the clay, now of the consistency -of treacle, is allowed to flow into tanks at a lower -level. Here it remains for three weeks or a month -to thicken, when it is transferred to the "dry," a -long shed with a well-ventilated roof, and with a furnace -at one end and flues connected with it that -traverse the whole "dry" and discharge into a chimney<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_239" id="Page_239">[Pg 239]</a></span> -at the further end of the building. On the floor of this -shed the clay rapidly dries, and it is then removed -in spadefuls and packed in barrels or bags, or merely -tossed into trucks for lading vessels. The clay is -now white as snow, and is employed either in the -Staffordshire potteries for the manufacture of porcelain, -or else for bleaching—that is to say, for -thickening calicoes, and for putting a surface on -paper. Some is employed in the manufacture of -alum; a good deal goes to Paris to be served up as -the white sugar of confectionery, and it is hinted that -not a little is employed in the adulteration of flour. -America, as well, imports it for the manufacture of -artificial teeth.</p> - -<p>Great heaps of white refuse will be seen about the -china-clay works; these are composed of the granitic -sandy residuum. Of this there are several qualities, -and it is sold to plasterers and masons, and the -coarsest is gladly purchased for gravelling garden -walks. The water that flows from the clay works -is white as milk, and has a peculiar sweet taste. -Cows are said to drink it with avidity. The full -pans in drying present a metallic blue or green glaze -on the surface.</p> - -<p>The kaolin sent to Staffordshire travels by boat -from Plymouth to Runcorn, where it is transhipped -on to barges on the Bridgewater Canal, and is so -conveyed to the belt of pottery towns, Burslem, -Hanley, Stoke, and Longton.</p> - -<p>The Dewerstone towers up at the junction of the -Meavy and the Plym. On the side of the Plym -there are sheer precipices of granite standing up as<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_240" id="Page_240">[Pg 240]</a></span> -church spires above the brawling river. The face -towards the Meavy is less abrupt, and it is on this -side that an ascent can be made, but it is a scramble.</p> - -<p>On reaching the top, it will be seen that the -headland has been fortified by a double rampart -of stone thrown across the neck of land. Wigford -Down is in the rear, with kistvaens and tumuli and -hut circles on it.</p> - -<p>The visitor should descend in the direction of -Goodameavy, and thence follow down the river that -abounds in beautiful scenes. It was formerly believed -that a wild hunter appeared on the summit of Dewerstone, -attended by his black dogs, blowing a horn. -From Dewerstone the visitor may walk to Bickleigh -Station, and take the train for Tavistock, which I have -written about in my <cite>Book of the West</cite>, and will not -re-describe in the present work.</p> - -<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_21_21" id="Footnote_21_21"></a><a href="#FNanchor_21_21"><span class="label">[21]</span></a> I have given it, with the original air, in the <cite>Garland of Country -Song</cite>. Methuen.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_22_22" id="Footnote_22_22"></a><a href="#FNanchor_22_22"><span class="label">[22]</span></a> Slightly curtailed from <span class="smcap">W. F. Collier</span>, <cite>Country Matters in Short</cite>. -Duckworth, London, 1899.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_241" id="Page_241">[Pg 241]</a></span></p></div></div> -<div class="chapter"></div> -<hr class="chap" /> - - - - -<h2>CHAPTER XVI.<br /> - -POST BRIDGE</h2> - -<div class="hangindent"> - -<p>A filled-up lake-bed—Stannon—The great central trackway—Destruction -of monuments—Cyclopean bridge—Blowing-house—Another -up the river—Cut Hill—The Jack-o'-lantern—The maid -and the lantern—Gathering lichens—Dyes—The coral moss—Birds—The -cuckoo—The wren—Rooks and daddy longlegs—The Lych -Way—Bellever Tor.</p></div> - - -<p class="drop-capw"><span class="smcap">A colony</span> about a school-chapel and a few -deformed beech trees in a basin among tors -constitute Post Bridge.</p> - -<p>Here the East Dart flows through a filled-up lake-bed, -and passes away by a narrow cleft that it has -sawn for itself through the granite.</p> - -<p>The beech trees were planted at the same time -that two lodges were erected by a gentleman called -Hullett, who was induced to believe that he could -convert a portion of Dartmoor into paradise. He -purposed building a mansion at Stannon, and actually -began the house. But by the time the lodges were -set up and a wing of his house, he had discovered -that Dartmoor would spell ruin, and he threw up -his attempt. And Dartmoor will spell ruin unless -approached and treated in the only suitable manner. -It will pasture cattle and feed ponies and sheep, but -it will never grow corn and roots.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_242" id="Page_242">[Pg 242]</a></span></p> - -<p>The great central causeway crossed the modern road -near the Dissenting chapel, and may be traced in the -marsh aiming for the river, beyond which it ascends -the hill and strikes along the brow behind Archerton. -It is paved, and is a continuation of the old Fosse -Way. It is certainly not Roman work, but British.</p> - -<p>Post Bridge has been termed, not accurately, a -prehistoric metropolis of the moor. This is because -round the ancient lake-bed were numerous pounds -containing hut circles. Most of these have now been -destroyed, yet one remains perfect—Broadun; and -adjoining it is Broadun Ring, where the outer circle -of the inclosure has been pulled down, but a considerable -number of the huts has been spared. -There remain indications of fifteen of these inclosures. -More have certainly been destroyed.</p> - -<p>Lake-head Hill has been almost denuded of the -monuments that once crowded it. They were -systematically removed by the farmer at Bellever. -Happily one kistvaen has been left on the summit, -and there are two or three others, small and ruinous, -on the sides.</p> - -<p>The "cyclopean bridge" over the Dart is composed -of rude masses of granite maintained in -position by their own weight. It was the old pack-horse -bridge.</p> - -<p>There are other bridges of the same description; -one is on the stream at Bellever, one under Bairdown. -But a structure of this sort is the simplest and most -easily reared on Dartmoor, where lime is not found, -and has to be brought at great expense from a -distance.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_243" id="Page_243">[Pg 243]</a></span></p> - -<p>Great numbers of worked flints are found in this -neighbourhood, and a bronze ferrule to a spear was -dug up a few years ago in Gawlor Bottom.</p> - -<p>A little way, but a few steps below the bridge, on -the west side, is a comparatively modern blowing-house; -two mould-stones for tin may be seen there -lying among the nettles. This house is built with -mortar and is of considerable size, whereas the -ancient blowing-houses are very small, and no lime -has been employed in their construction. One of -these with a <em>cache</em> may be found in the midst of the -tinners' heaps if the Dart be followed up to where it -makes a sudden bend and comes from the east. -Here a tongue of hill stands out above it, and a -stream sweeps down from the north to join it. A -very short distance up this stream is the blowing-house -with a beehive <em>cache</em>.</p> - -<p>If this stream be pursued, and Sittaford Tor be -aimed at, then a few hundred yards to the right of -the tor the Grey Wethers will be found, two very fine -circles in contact with one another; but the stones of -one are nearly all down.</p> - -<p>If the Ordnance Sheet XCIX., N.W., be taken, -and the ridge followed north-west along the line -indicated by bench-marks, Cut Hill will finally be -attained, which is all bog, but which has a gash cut -in it to afford a passage through the moors from -Okehampton to Post Bridge. This expedition will -take the visitor into some of the wildest and most -desolate portions of the northern half of Dartmoor.</p> - -<p>Many years ago the question was mooted in, I -think, the <cite>Times</cite>, whether there were really such -things as Jack-o'-lanterns.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_244" id="Page_244">[Pg 244]</a></span></p> - -<p>Few instances can be recorded where this <i lang="la">ignis -fatuus</i> has been seen on Dartmoor, probably because -so few cattle are lost in the bogs there. I was told -by a man accustomed to draw turf, that he has seen -the legs and belly of the horse as though on fire, -where it had been splashed by the peat water.</p> - -<p>I walked one night from Plymouth to Tavistock -across Roborough Down, before it was inclosed and -built upon, and I then saw a little blue flame dancing -on a pool. I went on my knees and crept close to it, -to make quite sure what it was, and that it was not -a glow-worm.</p> - -<p>Mr. Coaker, of Sherberton, informs me that he has -on several occasions seen the Jack-o'-lantern. There -is a bit of marshy land where rises Muddy Lake, -near the road from Princetown to Ashburton, and -he has seen it there. Sometimes, according to his -account, it appears like the flash of a lantern, and -then disappears, and presently flashes again. It has -also been seen by him in the boggy ground of Slade -by Huccaby Bridge. There, on one occasion, he -made his way towards it. From a distance the light -seemed to be considerable, but as he approached it -appeared only as a small flame.</p> - -<p>The Rev. T. E. Fox, curate, living at Post Bridge, -and serving the little chapel there and that at -Huccaby, has also seen it, in Brimpts, hovering, a -greenish-blue flame, about three feet above the soil; -and a woman living near informs me that she also -has noticed it in the same place.<a name="FNanchor_23_23" id="FNanchor_23_23"></a><a href="#Footnote_23_23" class="fnanchor">[23]</a></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> -<img src="images/p245.jpg" width="700" height="520" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p>LAKE-HEAD, KISTVAEN</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_245" id="Page_245">[Pg 245]</a></span></p> - -<p>The reader must excuse me if I tell the tales just -as told to me, and mix up facts with what I consider -fictions. I cannot doubt that these lights have been -seen by others as well as by myself, and I am not -surprised if here and there some superstition has -attached itself to these phenomena.</p> - -<p>The following story is told in the parish of Broad-woodwidger, -where is a field in which, it is asserted, -Will-o'-the-wisp is seen.</p> - -<p>The farmer's son was delicate, and in haymaking -time assisted in the work, and I have no doubt, -notwithstanding his feeble lungs, in making sweet -hay with the maidens. However, he over-exerted -himself, broke a blood-vessel, and died. Ever since -a blue flame has been seen dancing in this field, and -even on the top of the haycocks.</p> - -<p>The tale I have heard told, as a child, of a blue -flame being seen leaving the churchyard and travelling -down the lanes or roads to a certain door, and -there waiting and returning accompanied by another -flame, which appeared simultaneously with a death -occurring in the house, is doubtless a distortion of a -fact that such a flame as the Jack-o'-lantern <em>does</em> -occasionally appear in graveyards.</p> - -<p>A miner engaged at the Whiteworks crossed the -moor on a Saturday to Cornwood, to see a brother -who was dangerously ill, and started to return somewhat -late on the Sunday afternoon. In consequence, -night overtook him on the moor; he became -entangled among the bogs, and was in sore distress, -unable to proceed or to retreat.</p> - -<p>Being an eminently God-fearing man, he took off -his cap and prayed.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_246" id="Page_246">[Pg 246]</a></span></p> - -<p>All at once a little light sprang up and moved -forward. He knew that this was a Will-o'-the-wisp, -and that it was held to lead into dangerous -places; but his confidence in Providence was so -strong, and so assured was he that the light was -sent in answer to his prayer, that he followed it. -He was conducted over ground fairly firm, though -miry, till he reached heather and a sound footing, -whereupon the flame vanished. Thanking God, he -pursued his way, taking his direction by the stars, -and reached his destination in safety.</p> - -<p>"I tell the tale as 'twas told to me," but I will not -vouch for the truth of it, as I did not hear it from -the man himself, nor did I know him personally, so -as to judge whether his word could be trusted.</p> - -<p>Here, however, is an instance on which implicit -reliance can be placed.</p> - -<p>Mr. W. Bennett Dawe, of Hill, near Ashburton, -together with his family, saw one on several nights -in succession in the autumn of 1898. The month -of September had been very hot and dry, and this -was succeeded by a heavy rainfall in October during -twenty-three days. The mean temperature of the -month was 54·7, being 4° above the average of -twenty years. The warm damp season following -on the heated ground and the boggy deposits in the -Dart valley resulted in the generation of a good -deal of decomposition. Mr. Dawe and several of his -household observed at night a light of a phosphorescent -nature in the meadows between Ashburton -and Pridhamsleigh. It appeared to hover a little -above the ground and dance to and fro, then race<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_247" id="Page_247">[Pg 247]</a></span> -off in another direction, as if affected by currents -of air. This was watched during several evenings, -and the members of his family were wont as darkness -fell to go out and observe it. The meadows are -on deep alluvial soil, formerly marsh, and were -drained perhaps sixty years ago.</p> - -<p>The same gentleman saw a similar flame in the -form of a ball some forty years previously in the -low and then marshy valley between Tor Abbey -gateway and the Paignton road, near where is now -the Devon Rosery. The valley was then undrained. -The gas generated, which catches fire on rising -to the surface, is phosphoretted hydrogen, and is -certainly evolved by decay of animal matter in -water; if occasionally seen in churchyards it is -probably after continued rain, when the graves have -become sodden.</p> - -<p>Jack-o'-lantern is called in Yorkshire Peggy-wi'-t'-wisp; -consequently the treacherous, misleading -character is there attributed to a sprite of that -sex which has misled man from the first moment -she appeared on earth—who never rested till she -had led him out of the terrestrial paradise into -one of her own making.</p> - -<p>I was talking about this one evening in a little -tavern, over the fire, to a Cornishman, when he laughed -and volunteered a song. It was one, he said, that was -employed as a test to see whether a man were sober -enough to be able to repeat the numbers correctly -that followed at the close of each stanza.<a name="FNanchor_24_24" id="FNanchor_24_24"></a><a href="#Footnote_24_24" class="fnanchor">[24]</a></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_248" id="Page_248">[Pg 248]</a></span></p><div class="center"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">"As I trudged on at ten at night<br /></span> -<span class="i2">My way to fair York city,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">I saw before a lantern light<br /></span> -<span class="i2">Borne by a damsel pretty.<br /></span> -<span class="i0">I her accos't, 'My way I've lost,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">Your lantern let me carry!<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Then through the land, both hand in hand,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">We'll travel. Prithee tarry.'<br /></span> -<span class="i4">20, 18, 16, 14, 12, 10, 8, 6, 4, 2,<br /></span> -<span class="i4">19, 17, 15, 13, 11, 9, 7, 5, 3, 1.<br /></span> -</div><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">"She tripp'd along, so nimble she,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">The lantern still a-swinging,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">And 'Follow, follow, follow me!'<br /></span> -<span class="i2">Continually was singing.<br /></span> -<span class="i0">'Thy footsteps stay!' She answered, 'Nay!'<br /></span> -<span class="i2">'Your name? You take my fancy.'<br /></span> -<span class="i0">She laughing said, nor turn'd her head,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">'I'm only Northern Nancy.'<br /></span> -<span class="i22">20, 18, 16, etc.<br /></span> -</div><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">"She sped along, I in the lurch,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">A lost and panting stranger,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Till, lo! I found me at the Church,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">She'd led me out of danger.<br /></span> -<span class="i0">'Ring up the clerk,' she said; 'yet hark!<br /></span> -<span class="i2">Methinks here comes the pass'n;<br /></span> -<span class="i0">He'll make us one, then thou art done;<br /></span> -<span class="i2">He'll thee securely fasten.'<br /></span> -<span class="i22">20, 18, 16, etc.<br /></span> -</div><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">"'Man is a lost and vagrant clown<br /></span> -<span class="i2">That should at once be pounded,'<br /></span> -<span class="i0">She said, and laid the matter down<br /></span> -<span class="i2">With arguments well grounded.<br /></span> -<span class="i0">For years a score, and even more,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">I've lain in wedlock's fetter,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Faith! she was right; here, tied up tight,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">I could not have fared better.<br /></span> -<span class="i22">20, 18, 16, etc."<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_249" id="Page_249">[Pg 249]</a></span></p> -<p>An industry on Dartmoor that has become completely -extinct is the collection of lichen from the -rocks for the use of the dyers. There exists in MS. -an interesting book by a Dr. Tripe, of Ashburton, -recording what he saw and did each day, at the close -of last century. He says that he observed women -scraping off the lichen from the rocks near the Drewsteignton -cromlech. This they sold to the dyers, who -dried it, reduced it to powder, and treated it with a solution -of tin in <i lang="la">aqua fortis</i> and another ingredient, when -a most vivid scarlet dye was produced. The lichen is -called botanically <i lang="la">Lichinoides saxatile</i>. Other lichens -were employed to give purple and yellow colours. -The cudbear and crab's-eye lichens (<i lang="la">Lecanora tartarea</i> -and <i lang="la">Lecanora parella</i>) gave a dye of a royal purple, -and the two species called <i lang="la">Parmelia saxatilis</i> and -<i lang="la">Parmelia omphalodes</i> gave a yellowish brown. Moss -also was employed for the purpose; the <i lang="la">Hypnum -cupressiforme</i> yielded a rich reddish brown.</p> - -<p>"Lichens and mosses," says Mr. Parfitt, "are the -pioneers of the vegetable kingdom in attacking the -hard and almost impenetrable rocks, and so preparing -the way for the more noble plants—the trees -and shrubs—by gradual disintegration, and by adding -their own dead bodies to the soil, enrich it for the -food of others."<a name="FNanchor_25_25" id="FNanchor_25_25"></a><a href="#Footnote_25_25" class="fnanchor">[25]</a></p> - -<p>It is marvellous to see how the lichen attaches -itself to the granite. A harshly glaring piece that -the quarrymen have cut is touched with fine specks -that spread into black and crocus-yellow circles, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_250" id="Page_250">[Pg 250]</a></span> -tone down the stone to a sober tint. Unhappily of -late years there has been much firing of the furze -and heather on the moor, and the flames destroy the -beautiful lichens and mosses, and leave the old stones -white and ghostly, not to be reclothed with the old -tints for centuries.</p> - -<p>I do not think that we have any idea of the slowness -with which the lichens spread; a century to -them is nothing—it passes as a watch in the night. -There is a granite post I often go by. It was set -up just seventy years ago, and on it the largest -golden circle of the <i lang="la">Physcia parietina</i> has attained -the diameter of an inch. Mr. Parfitt mentions in -connection with it a rocky crag at Baggy Point, -North Devon, where it covers the whole surface with -a coat of golden colour. It spreads more rapidly -on slate than it does on granite, and especially on -such slates as are liable to rapid disintegration. The -Woodland and the Coryton slates are readily attacked -by it. The growth begins with a splash about the -size of a sixpence, and increases to that of a plate, -when the centre breaks up, and the ring becomes -detached in fragments which meet others, and so -appear to cover the rock or roof.</p> - -<p>One of the most beautiful of the lichens on the -moor is the coral moss, <i lang="la">Sphærophoron coralloides</i>. It -is a pale greenish-white, upright-growing lichen, that -forms a cup, and somewhat resembles an old Venetian -wineglass. Then points of brilliant scarlet form -round the lip of the cup, and increase in size till -the whole presents a wonderful appearance as of -sealing-wax splashed over the soil. It is not con<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_251" id="Page_251">[Pg 251]</a></span>fined -to the moorland, but grows also in woods, -where there has been a clearance made. I came -upon a wonderful carpet of sprinkled scarlet and -white on one occasion, where there was a woodman's -track through an old oak coppice. But it must be -capricious, for of late years when searching for it in -the same spot I have found no more. The black -coral moss is scarce, but it has been found about -Lynx and Yes Tors.</p> - -<p>The birds on Dartmoor have a hard time of it, not -only because of the guns levelled at them, but because -of the "swaling" or burning of the moor, which takes -place at the time when they are nesting. In East -Anglia there are along the coast the "bird tides," -as the people say. At that period when the plovers -and sea-mews are nesting in the marshes, there are unusually -low tides, a provision of God, so it is held, for -the protection of the feathered creatures whilst laying -and hatching out their eggs. So the ancients told of -the halcyon days when the gods had pity on the seabirds, -and smoothed seven to eleven days in the winter -solstice, that they might with safety hatch their young. -But on Dartmoor man has none of this pity; he -selects the very time when the poor birds are sitting -in their nests on their eggs, or are cherishing their -callow young, for enveloping them in flames. The -buzzard, the hen-harrier, and the sparrow-hawk are -now chiefly seen in the most lonely portions of the -moor. Gulls visit it on the approach of stormy -weather; but the ring-ouzel is there throughout the -year. The golden and grey plovers are abundant; -the pipe of the curlew may be heard; black grouse<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_252" id="Page_252">[Pg 252]</a></span> -and quail may be shot, as also snipe. By the water, -that living jewel the kingfisher can be observed -watching for his prey, and about every farm the blue -tit, called locally the hicky maul or hicka noddy, is -abundant. The sand martin breeds in a few places. -The heron has a place where she builds at Archerton.</p> - -<p>The snow bunting and cirl bunting are met with -occasionally.</p> - -<p>The cuckoo is heard on the moor before he visits -the lowlands. "March, he sits on his perch; April, -he tunes his bill; May, he sings all day; June, he -alters his tune, and July, away he do fly." So say -the people.</p> - -<p>One of the freshest and most delicious of Devonshire -folk-melodies is that connected with a song -about the cuckoo.</p> - -<div class="center"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">"The cuckoo is a pretty bird,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">She sings as she flies;<br /></span> -<span class="i0">She bringeth good tidings,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">She telleth no lies.<br /></span> -<span class="i0">She sucketh sweet flowers<br /></span> -<span class="i2">To keep her voice clear,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">And when she sings 'Cuckoo'<br /></span> -<span class="i2">The summer draweth near."<a name="FNanchor_26_26" id="FNanchor_26_26"></a><a href="#Footnote_26_26" class="fnanchor">[26]</a><br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>There is a saying among the country folk:—</p> - -<div class="center"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">"Kill a robin or a wren,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Never prosper, boy or man."<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>The wren is said to be the king of all birds. The -story told to account for this is that the birds once -assembled to elect a sovereign, and agreed that that<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_253" id="Page_253">[Pg 253]</a></span> -one of the feathered creation who soared highest -should be esteemed king. The eagle mounted, and -towered aloft high above the rest, but was outwitted -by the wren, who, unobserved and unfelt, had hopped -on to the eagle's back.</p> - -<p>The birds were so distressed and angry at the -trick that they resolved to drown the wren in their -tears. Accordingly they procured a pan into which -each bird in turn wept. When it was nearly full the -blundering old owl came up. "With such big eyes," -said the birds, "he will weep great tears." But he -perched on the edge of the pan and upset it. -Thenceforth the wren has reigned undisputed king -of the birds.</p> - -<p>There is a curious story told of a wren. In one -of the Irish rebellions a party of British military -were out after the enemy when, having made a long -march, they lay down to sleep and left no one to -keep sentinel. As they lay slumbering the murderous -rascals stole up, creeping like snakes in the grass -and among the bushes, and would have butchered -the entire party had it not been for a wren, which, -perching on the drum belonging to the company, -tapped it repeatedly with its little beak. This roused -the soldiers, they became aware of their situation, -and were able just in time to fire on their assailants -and disperse them.</p> - -<p>In Ireland, and in Pembrokeshire and elsewhere in -South Wales, it was usual, on S. Stephen's Day or -at the New Year, to put a wren in a lantern that -was decorated with ribbons and carry it about to -farms and cottages, with a song, which was repaid<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_254" id="Page_254">[Pg 254]</a></span> -by a small coin. Whether such a custom existed -in Devon I cannot say; I remember nothing of -the sort.</p> - -<p>The sparrow-hawk is often seen quivering aloft in -the air. A curious story is told of one by Mr. Elliot.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>"As is well known, not only sparrow-hawks, but other -birds of prey as well as other species, repair to the same -site year after year for nesting. This knowledge is valuable -to the keepers, who look up these haunts and try to shoot -the old birds before they hatch their eggs. On one -occasion he shot the female as she came off the nest, and -this satisfied him, but on visiting the spot later he was -surprised at another female flying off; on climbing to the -nest he found that the male must have found another mate, -as they had built a second nest over and into the old one, -which contained four eggs, whilst the freshly-built nest -contained five."<a name="FNanchor_27_27" id="FNanchor_27_27"></a><a href="#Footnote_27_27" class="fnanchor">[27]</a></p></div> - -<p>One has supposed hitherto that the gay widower -who looked out for another spouse after having lost -the first was a product of the human species only.</p> - -<p>A visitor to Dartmoor in June or July will be -surprised to find flights of rooks over it. As soon -as their maternal cares are over, they desert the -rookeries on the lowland and go for change of air -and diet to the moor, where they feed on the -whortleberry, possibly, but most certainly on the -daddy longlegs and its first cousin, who is the hateful -wireworm in his fully developed form. A friend -one day saw a bit of the moor dense with rooks,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_255" id="Page_255">[Pg 255]</a></span> -and surprised at their movements and excitement, -observed them closely, and discovered that they were -having a glut of daddy longlegs. The light and -friable peat earth exactly suits the wireworm in its -early stages, and when the pest emerged from the -soil full blown, then the rooks were down on him -before he could come to our gardens and turnip -fields to devastate them.</p> - -<p>The one deficiency in the soil on Dartmoor is -lime. That will sweeten the grass and enable the -cattle to thrive. Bullocks and other cattle will do -on the moor, but they really need a change to land -on lime whilst they are growing. The roots of the -grass and heather are ravenous after lime, and for -this reason it is that of the many interments on the -moor hardly a particle of bone remains.</p> - -<p>From Post Bridge starts the Lych Way, the Road -of the Dead, along which corpses were conveyed to -Lydford, the parish church, until, in 1260, Bishop -Bronescombe gave licence to the inhabitants of -Dartmoor, who lived nearer to Widdecombe than -to Lydford, to resort thither for baptisms and -funerals.</p> - -<p>The Lych Way may be traced from Conies Down -Tor to Whitabarrow; thence it strikes for Hill Bridge, -and so across the spur of Black Down to Lydford -church.</p> - -<p>When I was a boy I heard strange tales of the -Lych Way—and of funerals being seen passing over -it of moonlight nights. But superstition is dead -now on Dartmoor, as elsewhere, and ghosts as well as -pixies have been banished, not as the old moormen<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_256" id="Page_256">[Pg 256]</a></span> -say, by the "ding-dongs" of the church and mission -chapel bells, but by the voice of the schoolmaster.</p> - -<p>A walk or scramble down the Dart will take to -the ruins of the Snaily House, the story concerning -which I have told elsewhere.<a name="FNanchor_28_28" id="FNanchor_28_28"></a><a href="#Footnote_28_28" class="fnanchor">[28]</a> It may be carried -on to Dartmeet, where a little colony of inhabitants -will be found, and a return may be taken over Bellever -Tor, a striking height that holds its own, -and seems to be the true centre of the moor. On -its slopes are several kistvaens, but all have been -robbed of their covering-stones. There is an unpleasant -morass between Bellever Tor and the high-road.</p> - -<p>I was witness here of a rather amusing scene. A -gentleman with his wife and a young lady friend of -hers had driven out, from Princetown or Tavistock, -and when near Bellever the latter expressed a wish -to go to the summit of the tor. The gentleman -looked at his better half, who gave consent with a -nod, whereupon he started with the young lady, and -his wife drove on and put up the horse at Post Bridge, -then walked back to meet the two as they returned -to the high-road, on which madame promenaded. -Now, as it fell out, the husband missed his way on -trying to reach the high-road, and got to the morass, -where he and the young lady walked up and down, -and every now and then he extended his hand and -helped her along from one tuft of grass to another. -They went up—got more involved—then down -again, and were fully half an hour in the morass.</p> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_257" id="Page_257">[Pg 257]</a></span></p> -<p>Madame paced up and down the road, glaring at -her husband and the young lady dallying on the -moor, as she took it; for she was quite unable to -apprehend the reason why they did not come to -her as the crow flies, and as she considered was -her due. Her pace was accelerated, her turns -sharper, her glances more indignant, as minute after -minute passed. She saw them approach, then turn -and retrace their steps, gyrate, holding each other's -hands, and walk down the slope some way. Then -along the road, snorting like a war-horse, went the -lady. She flourished her parasol at them; she -called, they paid no attention. Finally they headed -the swamp and arrived on the firm road. Thereupon -the lady strode forward speechless with wrath -towards Post Bridge and the inn, where a high tea -was ready. Not a word would she vouchsafe to -either. Not a word of explanation would she listen -to from her husband.</p> - -<p>Curious to see the end, I went on to Webb's Inn, -and came in on the party.</p> - -<p>The gentleman sat limp and crestfallen.</p> - -<p>An excellent tea was ready. Cold chicken, ham, -whortleberry jam and Devonshire cream. He ate -nothing.</p> - -<p>"My dear," said madame to her husband, "you are -not eating."</p> - -<p>"No, precious!" he replied. "I have lost my -appetite."</p> - -<p>"But," retorted she, "the moor gives one."</p> - -<p>"Not to me," he responded feebly. "I don't feel -well. The moor has taken mine away."</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_258" id="Page_258">[Pg 258]</a></span></p> - -<p>Obviously there had been an interview, <em>tête-à-tête</em>, -before they sat down.</p> - -<p>Presently I saw them drive away.</p> - -<p>Madame brandished the whip and held the reins, -and the young lady friend sat in front.</p> - -<p>Monsieur was behind, disconsolate and sniffing.</p> - -<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_23_23" id="Footnote_23_23"></a><a href="#FNanchor_23_23"><span class="label">[23]</span></a> I have been informed that the Jack-o'-lantern is only to be seen -after a hot summer, at the end of July, and in August and September. -As the moormen say, "When the vaen rises," <em>i.e.</em> when there is -fermentation going on in the fen or vaen.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_24_24" id="Footnote_24_24"></a><a href="#FNanchor_24_24"><span class="label">[24]</span></a> I have had to considerably tone down the original, which was -hardly presentable if given <em>verbatim</em>.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_25_25" id="Footnote_25_25"></a><a href="#FNanchor_25_25"><span class="label">[25]</span></a> "The Lichen Flora of Devonshire," in <cite>Transactions of the -Devonshire Association</cite>, 1883.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_26_26" id="Footnote_26_26"></a><a href="#FNanchor_26_26"><span class="label">[26]</span></a> Given in <cite>A Garland of Country Song</cite>. Methuen, 1895.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_27_27" id="Footnote_27_27"></a><a href="#FNanchor_27_27"><span class="label">[27]</span></a> E. A. S. Elliot, "Birds in the South Hams," <cite>Transactions of -the Devonshire Association</cite>, 1899.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_28_28" id="Footnote_28_28"></a><a href="#FNanchor_28_28"><span class="label">[28]</span></a> <cite>Dartmoor Idylls.</cite> Methuen, 1896.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_259" id="Page_259">[Pg 259]</a></span></p></div></div> -<div class="chapter"></div> -<hr class="chap" /> - - - - -<h2>CHAPTER XVII.<br /> - -PRINCETOWN</h2> - -<div class="hangindent"> - -<p>Sir Thomas Tyrwhitt and Princetown—A desolate spot—The prisons—Escapes—A -burglary—Merrivale Bridge and its group of remains—Staple -Tor—Walk up the Walkham to Merrivale Bridge—Harter -Tor—Black Tor logan stone—Tor Royal—Wistman's Wood—Bairdown -Man—Langstone Moor Circle—Fice's Well—Whitchurch—Archpriests—Heath -and heather—Heather ale—White Heath.</p></div> - - -<p class="drop-capw"><span class="smcap">King Louis XIV.</span> selected the most barren -and intractable bit of land out of which to -create Versailles, with its gardens, plantations, and -palace; and Sir Thomas Tyrwhitt chose the most -inhospitable site for the planting of a town. Sir -Thomas was Black Rod, and Warden of the Stannaries. -He was a man of a sanguine temperament, -for he calculated on reaping gold where he sowed -shillings, and that in Dartmoor bogs.</p> - -<p>At his recommendation prisons were erected at -Princetown in 1806, at a cost of £130,000, for the -captives in the French and American wars. Sir -George Magrath, <span class="smcap">M.D.</span>, the physician who presided -over the medical department from 1814 until the -close of the war, testified to the salubrity of the -establishment.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>"From personal correspondence with other establishments -similar to Dartmoor, I presume the statistical record -of that great tomb of the living (embosomed as it is in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_260" id="Page_260">[Pg 260]</a></span> -a desert and desolate waste of wild, and in the winter -time terrible scenery, exhibiting the sublimity and grandeur -occasionally of elemental strife, but never partaking of -the beautiful of Nature; its climate, too, cheerless and -hyperborean), with all its disadvantages, will show that the -health of its incarcerated tenants, in a general way, equalled, -if not surpassed, any war prison in England or Scotland. -This might be considered an anomaly in sanitary history, -when we reflect how un-genially it might be supposed to -act on southern constitutions; for it was not unusual in -the months of December and January for the thermometer -to stand at thirty-three to thirty-five degrees below freezing, -indicating cold almost too intense to support animal life. -But the density of the congregated numbers in the prison -created an artificial climate, which counteracted the torpifying -effect of the Russian climate without. Like most -climates of extreme heat or cold, the newcomers required -a seasoning to assimilate their constitution to its -peculiarities, in the progress of which indispositions, -incidental to low temperature, assailed them; and it -was an everyday occurrence among the reprobate and -incorrigible classes of the prisoners, who gambled away -their clothing and rations, for individuals to be brought -up to the receiving room in a state of suspended animation, -from which they were usually resuscitated by the process -resorted to in like circumstances in frigid regions. I -believe one death only took place during my sojourn at -Dartmoor, from torpor induced by cold, and the profligate -part of the French were the only sufferers. As soon as -the system became acclimated to the region in which they -lived, health was seldom disturbed."</p></div> - -<p>There were from seven to nine thousand prisoners -incarcerated in the old portion of the establishment.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_261" id="Page_261">[Pg 261]</a></span> -They were packed for the night in stages one above -another, and we can well believe that by this means -they "created an artificial climate," but it must have -been an unsavoury as well as an unwholesome one.</p> - -<p>Over the prison gates is the inscription "<i lang="la">Parcere -subjectis</i>," and the discomfort of so many being -crammed into insufficient quarters strikes us now, -and renders the inscription ironical; but it was not so -regarded or intended at the time. Our convicts are -nursed in the lap of luxury as compared with the condition -of the prisoners at the beginning of the century. -But then the criminal is the spoiled child of the age, -to be petted, and pampered, and excused.</p> - -<p>A convict with one eye, his nose smashed on one -side, with coarse fleshy lips, was accosted by the -chaplain. "For what are you in here, my man?" -"For bigamy," was the reply. "'Twasn't my fault; -the women would have me."</p> - -<p>One marvels that such a deformed, plain spot as -the <em>col</em> between the two Hessary Tors should have -been selected for a town. The only reply one can -give is that Sir Thomas Tyrwhitt and the Prince -Regent would have it so. It is on the most inclement -site that could have been selected, catching -the clouds from the south-west, and condensing fog -about it when everywhere else is clear. It is exposed -equally to the north and east winds. It stands over -fourteen hundred feet above the sea, above the sources -of the Meavy, in the ugliest as well as least suitable -situation that could have been selected; the site determined -by Sir Thomas, so as to be near his granite -quarries.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_262" id="Page_262">[Pg 262]</a></span></p> - -<p>There have been various attempts made by prisoners -to escape. One of the most desperate was in November, -1880, when a conspiracy had been organised -among the convicts. At the time a good many -were engaged in a granite quarry. They had agreed -to make a sudden dash on the warders, overpower -them, whilst in the quarry; and they chose for the -attempt the day in the month on which the governor -went to Plymouth to receive the money for payment -of the officials, with intent to waylay, rob, and murder -him, then to break up into parties of two, and disperse -over the moor.</p> - -<p>One of the conspirators betrayed them, so that the -scheme was known. It was deemed advisable not -in any way to alter the usual arrangements, lest this -should inspire suspicion in the minds of the convicts. -The warders, armed with rifles, who keep guard at -a distance round the quarry, were told when they -heard the chief warder's whistle to close round the -quarry, and, if necessary, fire.</p> - -<p>The gang was marched, as usual, under a slender -escort, to the quarry, and work was begun as usual. -All went well till suddenly the ringleader turned -about and, with his crowbar, struck at the head -warder and staggered him for the moment: he reeled -and almost fell. Instantly the convict shouted to -his fellows, "Follow me, boys! Hurrah for freedom!" -And they made a dash for the entrance to the quarry.</p> - -<p>Meanwhile the head warder had rallied sufficiently -to whistle, but before the outer ring of guards appeared -some of the under warders discharged their -rifles at the two leading convicts. One fell dead, the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_263" id="Page_263">[Pg 263]</a></span> -other was riddled with shot, yet, strange to say, lived, -and, I believe, is alive still.</p> - -<p>Before the rest of the conspirators could master -the warders in the quarry and get away, the men -who had been summoned appeared on the edge of -the hollow, that was like a crater, with their rifles -aimed at the convicts, who saw the game was up, -and submitted.</p> - -<p>There are always some crooked minds and perverse -spirits in England ready to side with the -enemies of their country or of society, whether Boers -or burglars; and so it was in this case. A great -outcry was made at the shooting of the two ringleaders. -If a warder had been killed, no pity would -have been felt for him by these faddists. All their -feelings of sympathy were enlisted on behalf of the -wrongdoer.</p> - -<p>A curious case occurred in 1895.</p> - -<p>On March 10th, Sunday, at night, the chaplain, -who lived in a house in the town, being unable to -sleep, about half-past eleven went downstairs in his -dressing-gown. He was surprised to notice a light -approaching from the study. Then he observed a -man emerge into the hall, holding a large clasp -knife in his hand. On seeing the chaplain, whose -name was Rickards, he uttered a yell, and rushed -at him with the knife.</p> - -<p>The chaplain, who maintained his nerve, said, -"Stop this fooling, and come in here and let us have -a little talk; you have clearly lost your way."</p> - -<p>The fellow offered no resistance, and allowed himself -to be led into the study, where the Rev. C.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_264" id="Page_264">[Pg 264]</a></span> -Rickards quietly seated himself on the table, and -said to the burglar, "Now, we shall get on better -if you give me up that knife." At the same time -he took hold of the blade and attempted to gain -possession of it. He had disengaged two of the -man's fingers from it, when the fellow drew the knife -away, thereby badly cutting the chaplain's hand. -Mr. Rickards then jumped off the table, exclaiming, -"This is not fair!"</p> - -<p>"Look here," said the burglar, "I won't be took -at no price," and flourished the knife defiantly. -Noticing that the fellow's pockets bulged greatly, -Mr. Rickards said, "You're not going out with my -property," and closed with him, and endeavoured -to put his hand into one of the pockets. The -burglar resisted, and made for the door. Mr. -Rickards now got near where his gun hung on the -wall; he took it down, and clicked the hammer. -The gun was not loaded. The burglar then blew -out the candle he carried, and ran from the room. -Mr. Rickards at once loaded his gun with cartridges, -and followed the fellow into the passage. He still -had his own candle alight. The man then bolted -into the drawing-room, and endeavoured to open -the window. The chaplain entered, and said, "Now -bail up; up with your arms, or I shall fire."</p> - -<p>Thereupon the burglar made a dash at him, head -down, and the chaplain retreated, the man rushing -after him. Mr. Rickards had no desire to fire, and -as the fellow plunged past him, he struck at him -with the gun, but missed him. The fellow then -dashed through the doorway, and ran again into the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_265" id="Page_265">[Pg 265]</a></span> -study. The chaplain pursued him, and, standing in -the doorway, said, "Now I have you. The gun is -loaded, and I shall certainly fire if you come towards -me."</p> - -<p>The burglar stood for a moment eyeing him, and -then made a leap at him with the uplifted knife; -and Mr. Rickards fired at his legs. The man was -hit, and staggered back against the mantel-board. -The chaplain said, "Have you had enough?"</p> - -<p>Again the fellow gathered himself up with raised -knife to fall on him, when Mr. Rickards said coolly, -"The other barrel is loaded, and I shall fire if you -advance." The man, however, again came on, when -the chaplain fired again, and hit the man in his -right arm, and the knife fell. Mr. Rickards stooped, -picked up the knife, closed it, and put it into his -pocket. Then, thinking that there might be more -than this one man engaged in the burglary, he reloaded -his gun. The burglar now went down in a -lump on the hearthrug, bleeding badly.</p> - -<p>By this time the house was roused; the servants -had taken alarm, and had sent for the warders, who -arrived, and a doctor was summoned.</p> - -<p>The fellow had been engaged in a good many -robberies prior to this.</p> - -<p>One night a couple of young convicts escaped, -and obtained entrance into the doctor's house, where -evidently a large supper party had been held, as the -tables had not been cleared after the departure of -the guests. Afterwards, when retaken, one of the -men said:—</p> - -<p>"Sir, it was just as though the doctor had made<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_266" id="Page_266">[Pg 266]</a></span> -ready, and was expecting us to supper. The table -was laid, and there were chickens and ham, tongue, -and cold meats, with puddings, cakes, and decanters -of wine, making our mouths fairly water. We ate -and ate as only two hungry convicts could eat after -the semi-starvation of prison diet. I could not look -at a bit more when I had finished. 'Try just a leetle -slice more of this ham,' said my chum. 'No, thank -you, Bill; I couldn't eat another mouthful to save my -life.' And so we left, and were caught on going out."</p> - -<p>Soon after this the chaplain visited the fellow who -had been recaptured, and seeing him depressed and -in a very unhappy frame of mind, said to him, "Anything -on your soul, man? Your conscience troubling -you?"</p> - -<p>"Terrible," answered the convict; "I shall never -get over my self-reproach—not taking another slice -of ham."</p> - -<p>An old man succeeded in getting away in a fog; -he ran as far as Ilsington before he was caught.</p> - -<p>When brought back he was rather oddly attired, -and amongst other things carried a labourer's hoe. -This he employed vigorously when crossing fields, -if anyone came in sight. When captured a farmer -came to view him. "Why, drat it," he exclaimed, -"that's the man I saw hoeing Farmer Coaker's stubble -fields the other day. It struck me as something new -in farming, and I was going to ask him what there -was in it that he paid a labourer to hoe his stubbles." -This same convict, who was acquainted with the -neighbourhood, whilst temporarily at large paid a -visit to his wife one night. He asked her to let him<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_267" id="Page_267">[Pg 267]</a></span> -come into the house, telling who he was. "Not -likely; you don't come in here. The policeman's -about the place, and I don't want 'ee," was her -cheering reply.</p> - -<p>During another recent escape from Dartmoor an -amusing incident occurred in a lonely lane on a dark -night in the neighbourhood of Walkhampton. Two -warders on guard mistook an inoffensive but partially -inebriated farmer for the escaped convict, and -he mistook them for a couple of runaways.</p> - -<p>"Here he comes," exclaimed one warder to the -other at the sound of approaching footsteps. "Now -for him," as they both pounced out of the hedge -where they had been in hiding, and seized hold of -the man.</p> - -<p>"Look here, my good fellows," he cried. "I know -who you be. You be them two runaways from -Princetown, and I'll give you all I've got, clothes -and all, if only you won't murder me. I've got a -wife and childer to home. I'm sure now I don't -a bit mind goin' home wi'out any of my clothes -on to my body. My wife'll forgive that, under the -sarcumstances; but to go back wi'out nother my -clothes nor my body either—that would be more -nor my missus could bear and forgive. I'd niver -hear the end of it."</p> - -<p>Formerly the manner in which escapes were made -was by the convicts when peat-cutting building up a -comrade in a peat-stack, but the warders are now too -much on the alert for this to take place successfully.</p> - -<p>Such buildings as have been erected at Princetown -are ugly. The only structure that is not so is the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_268" id="Page_268">[Pg 268]</a></span> -"Plume of Feathers," erected by the French prisoners. -Every other house is hideous, and most hideous of -all are the rows of residences recently erected for the -warders, for they are pretentious as well as ugly.</p> - -<p>Yet Princetown may serve as a centre for excursions, -if the visitor can endure the intermittent rushes -of the trippers on their "cherry-bangs," and the persistent -presence of the convict. If he objects to -these, he can find accommodation a couple of miles -off, at Two Bridges; but if he desire creature comforts -he is sure of good entertainment at Princetown.</p> - -<p>The group of remains at Merrivale Bridge is within -an easy walk. These are the most famous on -Dartmoor—not for their size or consequence, but -because most accessible, being beside the road. But -the whole collection is happily very complete.</p> - -<p>There is a menhir, a so-called sacred circle, stone -rows, a kistvaen, a pound, hut circles, and a cairn.</p> - -<p>The menhir was the starting-point of a stone row -that has been plundered for the construction of a -wall. The sacred circle is composed of very small -stones, and probably at one time inclosed a cairn. -The stone rows that exist are fairly perfect. Those -on the south, a double row, start from a cairn at -the west end that has been almost destroyed, and -end in blocking-stones to the east. They are, however, -interrupted by a small cairn within a ring of -stones, and, curiously enough, much as at Chagford, -another row starts near it at a tangent from a partly -destroyed cairn. The double row runs 849 feet.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 544px;"> -<img src="images/p269.jpg" width="544" height="700" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p>STAPLE TOR</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_269" id="Page_269">[Pg 269]</a></span></p> - -<p>The north pair of rows is imperfect; it probably -had a cairn at the west end, but of it no traces now -remain. It consists of a double row, and ends in a -blocking-stone at the east end. It can be traced -for only 590 feet.</p> - -<p>A fine kistvaen, formerly in a cairn, lies to the -south of the southern pair of rows. A few years ago a -stonecutter at Merrivale Bridge took a gatepost out -of the coverer. In this kistvaen have been found, -though previously rifled, a flint knife and a polishing -stone. There were formerly two large cairns near, -but both have been destroyed by the road-makers, -as have also many of the hut circles; a good many, -however, yet remain, and some are inclosed within a -pound. In this ground is an apple-crusher, like an -upper millstone, that has been cut, but never removed, -because the demand for these stones ceased -with the introduction of the screw-press. Some ardent -but not experienced antiquaries have supposed it -to be a cromlech! As such it is figured in Major -Hamilton Smith's plan of the remains in 1828.</p> - -<p>The tor Over Tor, on the right-hand side of the -road, was overthrown by some trippers—the first -swallows of a coming flight—early in the century.</p> - -<p>The descent to Merrivale Bridge is fine; the bold -tors of Roos and Staple stand up grandly above the -Walkham river. Walkham, by the way, is Wallacombe, -the valley of the Walla.</p> - -<p>The flank of Mis Tor towards the river is strewn -with inclosures and hut circles.</p> - -<p>On Staple Tor is a so-called tolmen, a freak of -nature, unassisted by art. Cox Tor beyond is -crowned with cairns, but they have been rifled.</p> - -<p>A very charming excursion may be made by<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_270" id="Page_270">[Pg 270]</a></span> -following the Plymouth road to Peak Hill, then -descending to Hockworthy Bridge, and ascending -the river as best possible thence, by Woodtown to -Merrivale Bridge. There is a lane above Ward -Bridge that mounts the hillside on the east, and -commands a fine view of Vixen Tor with Staple -and Roos Tors behind. In the evening, when the -valley is in purple shade, a flood of golden glory -from the west illumines Vixen Tor, and this is the -true light in which the river should be ascended. A -so-called cyclopean bridge is passed that spans a -stream foaming down to join the Walkham.</p> - -<p>Walkhampton church need not arrest the pedestrian; -it has a fine tower, but contains absolutely -nothing of interest. Adjoining the churchyard is, -however, a very early church house, probably more -ancient than the present Perpendicular church.</p> - -<p>Sampford Spiney has its village church, a quaint, -small, old manor house, and a good tower to the -church. It is somewhat curious that the dedication -of neither of these churches is recorded.</p> - -<p>Within an easy stroll of Princetown to the south -is Harter Tor. There are here many hut circles, and -below Harter Tor are stone avenues leading from -cairns.</p> - -<p>Black Tor, that looks down on these remains, is -also above a blowing-house and miners' hut, not -of an ancient date, as it had a chimney and fireplace. -The mould-stone lies in the grass and weed.</p> - -<p>Black Tor has on it a logan stone that can be -rocked by taking hold of a natural handle. On its -summit is a rock basin.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> -<img src="images/p270.jpg" width="700" height="471" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p>OLD BLOWING-HOUSE ON THE MEAVY</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_271" id="Page_271">[Pg 271]</a></span></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> -<img src="images/p271.jpg" width="600" height="473" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p>BLOWING-HOUSE BELOW BLACK TOR.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Tor Royal was built by Sir Thomas Tyrwhitt, and -there he entertained the Prince Regent when that -worthy visited Dartmoor. Tradition tells of high -revelry and debauches taking place on that occasion. -Sir Thomas planted trees that are doing fairly well. -In the valley of the West Dart, under Longaford -and Littaford Tors, is Wistman's Wood, now sadly -reduced in size. It has been assumed to be the last -remains of the forest that once covered Dartmoor. -But no forest ever did that; at all events no forest -of trees. The ashes of the fires used by the primitive -inhabitants show that peat was their principal<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_272" id="Page_272">[Pg 272]</a></span> -fuel, and that what oak and alder they burned was -small and stunted.</p> - -<p>In the sheltered combes doubtless trees grew, but -not to any height and size.</p> - -<p>The early antiquaries, S. Rowe and E. Atkyns -Bray, talked much tall nonsense about Wistman's -Wood as a sacred grove, dedicated to the rites of -Druidism, and of the collection of mistletoe from -the boughs of the oaks. As it happens, there are -no prehistoric monuments near the wood to indicate -that it was held in reverence, and no mistletoe grows -in Devon, and in Somersetshire only on apple trees. -Indeed, the mistletoe will not grow higher than five -or six hundred feet above the sea, and Wistman's -Wood is not much less than a thousand feet above -the sea-level.</p> - -<p>In July, 1882, the central portion of the wood -was set fire to, it was thought by trippers, in an -attempt to boil a kettle. This has helped to reduce -the ancient wood; but what prevents its increase is -the sheep, which eat the young trees as they shoot -up. It has been said that Wistman's Wood oaks -produce no acorns. This, however, is not the case. -The trees are so venerable that their power to bear -fruit is nearly over, yet they still produce some -acorns, and there are young oaks growing—but not -where sheep roam—that have come from these parent -stocks.</p> - -<p>By ascending Bairdown, aiming for Lydford Tor, -and then following the ridge almost due north, but -with a little deflection to the west, Devil Tor may -be reached, and near this stands the most impressive<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_273" id="Page_273">[Pg 273]</a></span> -menhir on the moor, the Bairdown Man. The height -is only twelve feet, but it is clothed in black lichen, -and stands in such a solitary spot that it inevitably -leaves an impression on the imagination. There is -no token of there having ever been a stone row in -connection with it.</p> - -<p>It may here be noticed that the names Lydford -Tor, Littaford, Longaford, Belleford, Reddaford, do -not apply to any <em>fords</em> over the streams, which may -be crossed without difficulty, but take their appellation -from the Celtic <em>fordd</em>, "a way," and the tors -about the Cowsick and West Dart take their titles -from the great central causeway or from the Lych -Way that passed by them.</p> - -<p>The portion of the Cowsick above Two Bridges -abounds in charming studies of river, rock, and -timber.</p> - -<p>An excursion to Great Mis Tor will enable the -visitor to see a large rock basin, the Devil's Frying-pan -as it is called, and then, if he descends Greenaball, -where are cairns, he will see on the slope -opposite him, beyond the Walkham, a large village, -consisting of circular pounds and hut circles. On -reaching the summit of the hill he will see a fine -circle of upright stones. It was originally double, -but nearly all the stones forming the outer ring have -been removed. The rest were fallen, but have been -re-erected by His Grace the Duke of Bedford.</p> - -<p>In such a case there can be no arbitrary restoration, -for the holes that served as sockets for the -stones can always be found, together with the trigger-stones. -Indeed, it is easy by the shape of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_274" id="Page_274">[Pg 274]</a></span> -socket-holes to see in which way the existing stones -were planted.</p> - -<p>About half a mile to the north-west is the Langstone, -which gives its name to this down; it is of a -basaltic rock, and not, as is usual, of granite. Fice's -Well, which I remember in the midst of moor, is -now included within the newtake of the prisons, -and a wall has been erected to protect it. This -deprives it of much of its charm. It was erected -by John Fitz in 1568. Cut on the granite coverer -are the initials of John Fitz and the date.</p> - -<p>The tradition is that John Fitz of Fitzford and his -lady were once pixy-led whilst on Dartmoor. After -long wandering in vain effort to find their way, they -dismounted to rest their horses by a pure spring that -bubbled up on a heathery hillside. There they -quenched their thirst; but the water did more than -that—it opened their eyes, and dispelled the pixy -glamour that had been cast over them, so that at -once they were able to take a right direction so as -to reach Tavistock before dark night fell. In gratitude -for this, John Fitz adorned the spring with a -granite structure, on which were cut in low-relief his -initials and the date of his adventure.</p> - -<p>There are some old crosses that may be seen by -such as are interested in these venerable relics. The -Windy-post stands between Barn Hill and Feather -Tor, and there are also two on Whitchurch Down. -One of these, the more modern, of the fifteenth -century, has lost its shaft, and is reduced to a head; -but the other cross may, perhaps, date from the -seventh century—it may even be earlier. Whitchurch<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_275" id="Page_275">[Pg 275]</a></span> -was an archpriesthood; there were two of these in -Devon and one in Cornwall. The origin of these -archpriesthoods is probably this.</p> - -<p>In Celtic countries the king liked to have his -household priest, who ministered to the retinue and -to his family. On the other hand, the tribe had its -own saint, who was the ecclesiastical official for the -tribe and educated the young.</p> - -<p>As the kings increased in power, and the old tribal -arrangement broke down, they had their household -priests consecrated bishops, and the tribal lands -were constituted their dioceses. But in Devon and -Cornwall this could not be, as the Saxons took all -power away from the native princes, and the Latin -ecclesiastics would not endure the peculiar ecclesiastical -organisation of the Celts. The household -priests of the conquered chieftains therefore simply -remained as archpriests. The Saxon and then the -Norman nobles were not averse from having their own -chaplains free from episcopal jurisdiction, and in some -places the archpriest remained on. But the bishops -did not like them, and one by one gobbled them up. -Whitchurch was regulated by Bishop Stapeldon in -1332. At present only one archpriesthood lingers on, -that of Haccombe. At an episcopal visitation, when -the name of the archpriest is recited by the episcopal -official, he does not respond, as to answer the citation -would be a recognition of the bishop's jurisdiction -over Haccombe. The very fine piece of screen in -Whitchurch was placed there by a former Lord -Devon. It comes from Moreton Hampstead. When -the dunderheads there cast it forth, the Earl secured<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_276" id="Page_276">[Pg 276]</a></span> -it and placed it where it might be preserved and -valued. It is of excellent work.</p> - -<p>Before laying down my pen I feel that I have not -done homage to that which, after all, gives the flavour -of poetry to the moorland—the heath and heather. -I was one day on the top of the coach from Holsworthy -to Bude, between two Scotch ladies, and I -put to them the question, "Which is heath and which -heather—that with the large, or that with the small -bells?" And Jennie, on my right, said: "The large -bell—that is heather"; but Grizel, on my left, said: -"Nay, the small bell—that is heather." As Scottish -women were undecided, I referred to books, and -take their decision. The large bell is heath; the ling, -that is heather.</p> - -<p>In old times, so it is said, the Picts made of the -heather a most excellent beer, and the secret was -preserved among them. Leyden says that when -the Picts were exterminated, a father and son, who -alone survived, were brought before Kenneth the -Conqueror, who promised them life if they would -divulge the secret of heather ale. As they remained -silent, the son was put to death before the eyes of -his father. This exercise of cruelty failed in its -effect. "Sire," said the old Pict, "your threats might -have influenced my son, but they have no effect on -me." The king suffered the Pict to live, and the -secret remained untold.</p> - -<p>Ah, weel! the Scotch make up for their loss upon -whisky.</p> - -<p>A recent writer, referring to the story, says: "It is -just possible that the grain of truth contained in the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_277" id="Page_277">[Pg 277]</a></span> -tradition may be, that all the northern nations, as the -Swedes still do, used the narcotic gale (<i lang="la">Myrica gale</i>), -which grows among the heather, to give bitterness -and strength to the barley beer; and hence the belief -that the beer was made chiefly of the heather itself."</p> - -<p>I do not hold this. I suspect that the ale was -metheglin, made of the honey extracted from the -heather by the bees. Metheglin is still made round -Dartmoor, but it is only good and "heady" when -many years old. Avoid that which is younger than -three winters. When it is older, drink sparingly.<a name="FNanchor_29_29" id="FNanchor_29_29"></a><a href="#Footnote_29_29" class="fnanchor">[29]</a></p> - -<p>It is quite certain that the ancient Irish brewed a -beer, which we can hardly think came from barley. -S. Bridget has left but one poetical composition -behind her, and that begins:—</p> - -<div class="center"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">"I should like a great lake of ale<br /></span> -<span class="i2">For the King of kings.<br /></span> -<span class="i0">I should like the whole company of Heaven<br /></span> -<span class="i2">To be drinking it eternally!"<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>The heath was doubtless largely used in former -times, from the Prehistoric Age, not only as a thatch -for the huts and hovels, but as a litter for the beds. -Indeed, heath or heather is still employed in the -Scottish Highlands along with the peat earth as a -substitute for mortar between the stones of which -a cottage is built. And that heather was employed -for bedding who can question? Leather is tanned<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_278" id="Page_278">[Pg 278]</a></span> -even better with heath than with oak-bark, and of it -a brilliant yellow dye is produced.</p> - -<p>But—ah, me! the heath and the heather!—it is -not for the beer produced therefrom, not for the tan, -not for the dye, that we love it. Wonderful is the -sight of the moorside flushed with pink when the -heather is in bloom—it is as though, like a maiden, -it had suddenly awoke to the knowledge that it was -lovely, and blushed with surprise and pleasure at the -discovery.</p> - -<p>But how short-lived is the heath!</p> - -<p>It lies dead—a warm chocolate-brown, mantling -the hills from October till July. Only in the midsummer -does it timidly put forth its leaves—its -spines rather—and then it flushes again in September. -It blooms for about a fortnight, perhaps three -weeks, and then subsides into its brown winter sleep. -But what browns! what splendours of colour we have -when the fern is in its russet decay and the heather -is in its velvet sleep!</p> - -<p>To him who wanders over the moor, and looks -at the flowers at his feet, some day comes the proud -felicity of lighting on the white heath—and that -found ensures happiness. And I, as I make my -<em>congé</em>, hand it to my reader with best wishes for his -enjoyment of that region I love best in the world.</p> - -<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_29_29" id="Footnote_29_29"></a><a href="#FNanchor_29_29"><span class="label">[29]</span></a> Yet there is the Devonshire white ale—the composition of which -is a secret—that is still drunk in the South Hams, and in one tavern in -Tavistock. It is a singular, curdy liquor, in the manufacture of which -egg is employed. Is heath used also? <i lang="es">Qu en sabe?</i></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_279" id="Page_279">[Pg 279]</a></span></p></div></div> -<div class="chapter"></div> -<hr class="chap" /> - - - - -<h2>INDEX</h2> - - - -<ul id="index"><li class="ifrst">Abbots' Way, <a href="#Page_210">210</a>-11.</li> - -<li>Algeria, <a href="#Page_36">36</a>.</li> - -<li>Amusing scene, <a href="#Page_256">256</a>.</li> - -<li>Ancient tenements, <a href="#Page_24">24</a>.</li> - -<li>Archerton, <a href="#Page_27">27</a>.</li> - -<li>Archpriests, <a href="#Page_275">275</a>.</li> - -<li>Arrow-heads, <a href="#Page_37">37</a>-8.</li> - -<li>Asphodel, <a href="#Page_11">11</a>.</li> - -<li>Assacombe, <a href="#Page_163">163</a>.</li> - -<li>Aune Head, <a href="#Page_6">6</a>.</li> - -<li>Avon River, <a href="#Page_210">210</a>-11.</li> - -<li>Axe River, <a href="#Page_1">1</a>.</li> - - -<li class="indx">Bairdown Man, <a href="#Page_273">273</a>.</li> - -<li>Bath huts, <a href="#Page_46">46</a>.</li> - -<li>Batworthy, <a href="#Page_160">160</a>.</li> - -<li>Becka Fall, <a href="#Page_174">174</a>.</li> - -<li>Beehive huts, <a href="#Page_213">213</a>.</li> - -<li>Bee-keeping, <a href="#Page_13">13</a>.</li> - -<li>Bellever, <a href="#Page_145">145</a>, <a href="#Page_223">223</a>, <a href="#Page_242">242</a>, <a href="#Page_256">256</a>.</li> - -<li>Belstone, <a href="#Page_144">144</a>-8, <a href="#Page_156">156</a>.</li> - -<li>Bidlake, <a href="#Page_106">106</a>-7.</li> - -<li>Birds of the moor, <a href="#Page_251">251</a>-2.</li> - -<li>Bishop's Stone, <a href="#Page_174">174</a>.</li> - -<li>Blachford, <a href="#Page_217">217</a>, <a href="#Page_219">219</a>.</li> - -<li>Black Tor, <a href="#Page_270">270</a>.</li> - -<li>Blowing-houses, <a href="#Page_120">120</a>-1, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>, <a href="#Page_200">200</a>, <a href="#Page_215">215</a>-16, <a href="#Page_270">270</a>.</li> - -<li>Bog plants, <a href="#Page_11">11</a>-12.</li> - -<li>Bogs, <a href="#Page_2">2</a>-11, <a href="#Page_202">202</a>.</li> - -<li>Bovey Heathfield, <a href="#Page_15">15</a>.</li> - -<li>Bowerman's Nose, <a href="#Page_75">75</a>.</li> - -<li>Brent Tor, <a href="#Page_97">97</a>, <a href="#Page_102">102</a>-4.</li> - -<li>Bridestowe, <a href="#Page_23">23</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">church, <a href="#Page_138">138</a>.</li> - -<li>Bridges, <a href="#Page_72">72</a>-3, <a href="#Page_242">242</a>.</li> - -<li>Brimpts, <a href="#Page_25">25</a>, <a href="#Page_196">196</a>.</li> - -<li>Bronescombe's Loaf, <a href="#Page_139">139</a>-41.</li> - -<li>Bronze implements, <a href="#Page_15">15</a>.</li> - -<li>Brooke, Rajah, <a href="#Page_229">229</a>.</li> - -<li>Broom, Yellow, <a href="#Page_12">12</a>.</li> - -<li>Browne's House, <a href="#Page_164">164</a>.</li> - -<li>Buckbean, <a href="#Page_11">11</a>.</li> - -<li>Buckland-in-the-Moor, <a href="#Page_194">194</a>.</li> - -<li>Bull-ring, <a href="#Page_229">229</a>.</li> - -<li>Burglary, <a href="#Page_263">263</a>-5.</li> - -<li>Burial alive, <a href="#Page_174">174</a>.</li> - -<li>Burleigh Wood Camp, <a href="#Page_104">104</a>-6.</li> - -<li>Burra Tor, <a href="#Page_229">229</a>.</li> - - -<li class="indx">Caches, <a href="#Page_213">213</a>, <a href="#Page_230">230</a>.</li> - -<li>Cainnech, S., story of, <a href="#Page_64">64</a>-5.</li> - -<li>Cairns, <a href="#Page_71">71</a>-2, <a href="#Page_101">101</a>, <a href="#Page_211">211</a>, <a href="#Page_269">269</a>.</li> - -<li>Caistor Rock, <a href="#Page_160">160</a>.</li> - -<li>Camps, <a href="#Page_72">72</a>, <a href="#Page_82">82</a>-3, <a href="#Page_97">97</a>-107, <a href="#Page_130">130</a>, <a href="#Page_155">155</a>, <a href="#Page_162">162</a>, <a href="#Page_240">240</a>.</li> - -<li>Canoe, <a href="#Page_15">15</a>.</li> - -<li>Castle, Lydford, <a href="#Page_131">131</a>.</li> - -<li>Causeway, great central, <a href="#Page_71">71</a>, <a href="#Page_170">170</a>, <a href="#Page_242">242</a>.</li> - -<li>Chagford, <a href="#Page_157">157</a>-60.</li> - -<li>Chaw Gully, <a href="#Page_170">170</a>.</li> - -<li>Childe the Hunter, <a href="#Page_202">202</a>-3. -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_280" id="Page_280">[Pg 280]</a></span></li> -<li>Chinese, <a href="#Page_33">33</a>-5, <a href="#Page_84">84</a>.</li> - -<li>Circles, stone, <a href="#Page_57">57</a>-9, <a href="#Page_101">101</a>, <a href="#Page_160">160</a>, <a href="#Page_163">163</a>, <a href="#Page_164">164</a>, <a href="#Page_273">273</a>.</li> - -<li>Clakeywell Pool, <a href="#Page_231">231</a>.</li> - -<li>Clerk, old, <a href="#Page_125">125</a>-6, <a href="#Page_158">158</a>.</li> - -<li>Clitters, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>, <a href="#Page_75">75</a>.</li> - -<li>Coffin-stone, <a href="#Page_195">195</a>.</li> - -<li>Commons, <a href="#Page_23">23</a>.</li> - -<li>Convicts, <a href="#Page_262">262</a>-3, <a href="#Page_265">265</a>-7.</li> - -<li>Cooking-holes, <a href="#Page_44">44</a>-6, <a href="#Page_70">70</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">pots, <a href="#Page_46">46</a>, <a href="#Page_70">70</a>.</li> - -<li>Cookworthy, William, <a href="#Page_237">237</a>-8.</li> - -<li>Coral moss, <a href="#Page_250">250</a>-1.</li> - -<li>Cosdon, <a href="#Page_149">149</a>.</li> - -<li>Country dances, <a href="#Page_236">236</a>.</li> - -<li>Cox Tor, <a href="#Page_269">269</a>.</li> - -<li>Cranbrook Castle, <a href="#Page_104">104</a>, <a href="#Page_162">162</a>.</li> - -<li>Cranmere Pool, <a href="#Page_7">7</a>, <a href="#Page_149">149</a>.</li> - -<li>Cromlech, <a href="#Page_55">55</a>, <a href="#Page_57">57</a>, <a href="#Page_162">162</a>.</li> - -<li>Crosses, Celtic, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">on Dartmoor, <a href="#Page_65">65</a>-6, <a href="#Page_159">159</a>, <a href="#Page_203">203</a>, <a href="#Page_210">210</a>-12, <a href="#Page_236">236</a>, <a href="#Page_274">274</a>.</li> - -<li>Cuckoo, <a href="#Page_252">252</a>.</li> - -<li>Culture, encroachment of, <a href="#Page_26">26</a>-8.</li> - -<li>Cut Hill, <a href="#Page_243">243</a>.</li> - - -<li class="indx">Daddy longlegs, <a href="#Page_254">254</a>-5.</li> - -<li>Damnonii, <a href="#Page_44">44</a>.</li> - -<li>Dartmoor:</li> -<li class="isub1">ancient inhabitants, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>-51;</li> -<li class="isub1">antiquities, <a href="#Page_52">52</a>-73;</li> -<li class="isub1">bogs, <a href="#Page_2">2</a>-10;</li> -<li class="isub1">camps, <a href="#Page_97">97</a>-107;</li> -<li class="isub1">cradle of rivers, <a href="#Page_1">1</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">forest, <a href="#Page_22">22</a>, <a href="#Page_24">24</a>-5, <a href="#Page_271">271</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">granite, <a href="#Page_16">16</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">lakes, <a href="#Page_15">15</a>, <a href="#Page_16">16</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">plants, <a href="#Page_11">11</a>-13, <a href="#Page_19">19</a>-21;</li> -<li class="isub1">Preservation Society, <a href="#Page_27">27</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">salubrity of, <a href="#Page_178">178</a>-9, <a href="#Page_259">259</a>-60;</li> -<li class="isub1">tin-streaming, <a href="#Page_108">108</a>-123;</li> -<li class="isub1">tors, <a href="#Page_7">7</a>, <a href="#Page_14">14</a>-15, <a href="#Page_75">75</a>, <i lang="la">et passim</i>;</li> -<li class="isub1">venville parishes, <a href="#Page_22">22</a>-3.</li> - -<li>Dart River, <a href="#Page_194">194</a>-200;</li> -<li class="isub1">East, <a href="#Page_241">241</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">West, <a href="#Page_224">224</a>, <a href="#Page_256">256</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">cry of, <a href="#Page_235">235</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">otter-hunting on, <a href="#Page_224">224</a>-8.</li> - -<li>Dedication of Celtic Churches, <a href="#Page_128">128</a>-9.</li> - -<li>Deer, <a href="#Page_223">223</a>.</li> - -<li>Destruction of antiquities, <a href="#Page_53">53</a>-5, <a href="#Page_162">162</a>, <a href="#Page_172">172</a>, <a href="#Page_210">210</a>, <a href="#Page_211">211</a>, <a href="#Page_228">228</a>.</li> - -<li>Dewerstone, <a href="#Page_104">104</a>, <a href="#Page_239">239</a>-40.</li> - -<li>Dolly Trebble, <a href="#Page_196">196</a>-7.</li> - -<li>Dolmens, <a href="#Page_55">55</a>-6.</li> - -<li>Dolmen-builders, <a href="#Page_36">36</a>-9.</li> - -<li>Drewsteignton cromlech, <a href="#Page_162">162</a>.</li> - -<li>Drift, a Dartmoor, <a href="#Page_25">25</a>.</li> - -<li>Drizzlecombe, <a href="#Page_60">60</a>, <a href="#Page_63">63</a>, <a href="#Page_120">120</a>, <a href="#Page_236">236</a>.</li> - -<li>Druids, <a href="#Page_80">80</a>-1, <a href="#Page_272">272</a>.</li> - -<li>Duchy, <a href="#Page_27">27</a>.</li> - -<li>Dunnabridge Pound, <a href="#Page_26">26</a>.</li> - -<li>Dyeing, <a href="#Page_249">249</a>.</li> - - -<li class="indx">Elford family, <a href="#Page_221">221</a>.</li> - -<li>Epitaphs, <a href="#Page_129">129</a>-30, <a href="#Page_193">193</a>.</li> - -<li>Erme Plains, <a href="#Page_212">212</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">river, <a href="#Page_211">211</a>.</li> - -<li>Escapes of convicts, <a href="#Page_265">265</a>-7.</li> - -<li>Exe River, <a href="#Page_1">1</a>.</li> - - -<li class="indx">Fardell, <a href="#Page_219">219</a>.</li> - -<li>Farmhouses, <a href="#Page_190">190</a>.</li> - -<li>Fernworthy, <a href="#Page_163">163</a>.</li> - -<li>Fice's Well, <a href="#Page_274">274</a>.</li> - -<li>Flint finds, <a href="#Page_160">160</a>, <a href="#Page_243">243</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">tools and weapons, <a href="#Page_30">30</a>, <a href="#Page_37">37</a>, <a href="#Page_38">38</a>, <a href="#Page_45">45</a>, <a href="#Page_49">49</a>.</li> - -<li>Foale's Arrishes, <a href="#Page_176">176</a>-8.</li> - -<li>Fordd = a road, <a href="#Page_273">273</a>.</li> - -<li>Forest, <a href="#Page_22">22</a>, <a href="#Page_24">24</a>-5, <a href="#Page_271">271</a>.</li> - -<li>Fox-hunting, <a href="#Page_223">223</a>.</li> - -<li>Fox Tor Mire, <a href="#Page_6">6</a>.</li> - -<li>Fresh air, <a href="#Page_178">178</a>.</li> - -<li>Funeral customs, <a href="#Page_83">83</a>-96.</li> - -<li>Fur Tor Cut, <a href="#Page_7">7</a>-8.</li> - -<li>Furze, <a href="#Page_12">12</a>-13.</li> - - -<li class="indx">Gael, <a href="#Page_39">39</a>, <a href="#Page_41">41</a>-2. -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_281" id="Page_281">[Pg 281]</a></span></li> -<li>Galford, <a href="#Page_105">105</a>-6.</li> - -<li>Gates, how hung, <a href="#Page_133">133</a>.</li> - -<li>Ghosts, <a href="#Page_90">90</a>-1.</li> - -<li>Gidleigh, <a href="#Page_162">162</a>-3.</li> - -<li>Gobbetts, <a href="#Page_117">117</a>, <a href="#Page_203">203</a>-6.</li> - -<li>Gold, <a href="#Page_122">122</a>.</li> - -<li>Granite, <a href="#Page_14">14</a>-16.</li> - -<li>Greenaball, <a href="#Page_273">273</a>.</li> - -<li>Grey Wethers, <a href="#Page_164">164</a>, <a href="#Page_243">243</a>.</li> - -<li>Grimspound, <a href="#Page_165">165</a>-70.</li> - -<li>Gubbinses, <a href="#Page_134">134</a>-5.</li> - - -<li class="indx">Harford church, <a href="#Page_214">214</a>.</li> - -<li>Harter Tor, <a href="#Page_270">270</a>.</li> - -<li>Hawns and Dendles, <a href="#Page_217">217</a>.</li> - -<li>Heather, <a href="#Page_276">276</a>-8;</li> -<li class="isub1">white, <a href="#Page_162">162</a>.</li> - -<li>Hembury Castle, <a href="#Page_104">104</a>.</li> - -<li>Hey Tor Rocks, <a href="#Page_176">176</a>.</li> - -<li>Holne Chase, <a href="#Page_194">194</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">church, <a href="#Page_193">193</a>.</li> - -<li>Hound Tor, <a href="#Page_175">175</a>.</li> - -<li>Huccaby Bridge, <a href="#Page_200">200</a>.</li> - -<li>Hut circles, <a href="#Page_43">43</a>-4, <a href="#Page_66">66</a>-71, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>, <a href="#Page_168">168</a>, <a href="#Page_176">176</a>, <a href="#Page_212">212</a>-13.</li> - - -<li class="indx">Idol, wooden, <a href="#Page_15">15</a>.</li> - -<li>Inscribed stones, <a href="#Page_142">142</a>-3, <a href="#Page_173">173</a>, <a href="#Page_219">219</a>.</li> - -<li>Iron: introduction of, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">smelting, <a href="#Page_112">112</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">smelting-houses, <a href="#Page_194">194</a>.</li> - -<li>Ivybridge, <a href="#Page_209">209</a>.</li> - - -<li class="indx">Jack-o'-Lantern, <a href="#Page_243">243</a>-7.</li> - -<li>Jolly Lane Cot, <a href="#Page_200">200</a>-1.</li> - - -<li class="indx">Kaolin, <a href="#Page_237">237</a>-9.</li> - -<li>Kingset, <a href="#Page_231">231</a>.</li> - -<li>Kingsley, Charles, <a href="#Page_206">206</a>.</li> - -<li>King's Oven, <a href="#Page_122">122</a>.</li> - -<li>King's Teignton, <a href="#Page_207">207</a>.</li> - -<li>Kingston, Duchess of, <a href="#Page_214">214</a>-15.</li> - -<li>Kistvaens, <a href="#Page_57">57</a>, <a href="#Page_101">101</a>, <a href="#Page_149">149</a>, <a href="#Page_168">168</a>, <a href="#Page_175">175</a>, <a href="#Page_268">268</a>-9.</li> - - -<li class="indx">"Lady" Darke, <a href="#Page_183">183</a>-9.</li> - -<li>Lake-bed, <a href="#Page_16">16</a>.</li> - -<li>Lake-head Hill, <a href="#Page_242">242</a>.</li> - -<li>Langstone, <a href="#Page_10">10</a>, <a href="#Page_101">101</a>, <a href="#Page_160">160</a>, <a href="#Page_274">274</a>.</li> - -<li>Laurence, Archbishop, <a href="#Page_87">87</a>.</li> - -<li>Leather Tor, <a href="#Page_235">235</a>.</li> - -<li>Lichens, <a href="#Page_199">199</a>, <a href="#Page_249">249</a>-50.</li> - -<li>Lime, deficiency of, <a href="#Page_255">255</a>.</li> - -<li>Logan rocks, <a href="#Page_75">75</a>-9, <a href="#Page_141">141</a>, <a href="#Page_270">270</a>.</li> - -<li>Luminous moss, <a href="#Page_19">19</a>-20.</li> - -<li>Lustleigh church, <a href="#Page_173">173</a>-4.</li> - -<li>Lych Way, <a href="#Page_255">255</a>.</li> - -<li>Lydford, <a href="#Page_107">107</a>, <a href="#Page_124">124</a>-32, <a href="#Page_134">134</a>-5.</li> - -<li>Lynx Tor, <a href="#Page_141">141</a>-2.</li> - - -<li class="indx">"Maid and Lantern," ballad, <a href="#Page_248">248</a>.</li> - -<li>Manaton, <a href="#Page_171">171</a>-2.</li> - -<li>Marchant's Cross, <a href="#Page_236">236</a>.</li> - -<li>Mary Tavy church, <a href="#Page_137">137</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">registers, <a href="#Page_136">136</a>-7.</li> - -<li>May Day customs, <a href="#Page_206">206</a>-7.</li> - -<li>Meavy, <a href="#Page_236">236</a>-7.</li> - -<li>Menhirs, <a href="#Page_62">62</a>-6, <a href="#Page_101">101</a>, <a href="#Page_149">149</a>, <a href="#Page_236">236</a>, <a href="#Page_268">268</a>, <a href="#Page_273">273</a>.</li> - -<li>Merrivale Bridge, <a href="#Page_120">120</a>, <a href="#Page_268">268</a>-9.</li> - -<li>Mires, <a href="#Page_6">6</a>, <a href="#Page_8">8</a>.</li> - -<li>Mistletoe, <a href="#Page_272">272</a>.</li> - -<li>Mis Tor, <a href="#Page_269">269</a>, <a href="#Page_273">273</a>.</li> - -<li>Murcens, <a href="#Page_102">102</a>.</li> - - -<li class="indx">Neolithic man, <a href="#Page_31">31</a>-51.</li> - -<li>North Bovey, <a href="#Page_172">172</a>.</li> - -<li>Nun's Cross, <a href="#Page_230">230</a>-1.</li> - - -<li class="indx">Oaks, <a href="#Page_272">272</a>.</li> - -<li>Oghams, <a href="#Page_219">219</a>.</li> - -<li>Okebrook, <a href="#Page_200">200</a>.</li> - -<li>Okement River, <a href="#Page_1">1</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">West, <a href="#Page_136">136</a>, <a href="#Page_138">138</a>.</li> - -<li>Otter-hunting, <a href="#Page_224">224</a>-8. -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_282" id="Page_282">[Pg 282]</a></span></li> -<li>Otter River, <a href="#Page_1">1</a>.</li> - -<li>Over Tor, <a href="#Page_269">269</a>.</li> - - -<li class="indx">Palæolithic man, <a href="#Page_30">30</a>.</li> - -<li>Palgrave, Mr., <a href="#Page_31">31</a>.</li> - -<li>Peat fires, <a href="#Page_180">180</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">works, <a href="#Page_142">142</a>.</li> - -<li>Pebbles, <a href="#Page_47">47</a>.</li> - -<li>Peter Tavy church, <a href="#Page_137">137</a>-8.</li> - -<li>Petrock, S., <a href="#Page_12">12</a>, <a href="#Page_127">127</a>, <a href="#Page_129">129</a>, <a href="#Page_214">214</a>.</li> - -<li>Phœnicians, <a href="#Page_144">144</a>-6.</li> - -<li>Pixy Cave, <a href="#Page_200">200</a>, <a href="#Page_221">221</a>.</li> - -<li>Plym River, <a href="#Page_239">239</a>.</li> - -<li>Population, ancient, <a href="#Page_48">48</a>-9.</li> - -<li>Post Bridge, <a href="#Page_48">48</a>, <a href="#Page_241">241</a>-58.</li> - -<li>Pottery, neolithic, <a href="#Page_30">30</a>, <a href="#Page_38">38</a>, <a href="#Page_177">177</a>-8.</li> - -<li>Pounds, <a href="#Page_26">26</a>, <a href="#Page_48">48</a>.</li> - -<li>Prideaux, John, <a href="#Page_214">214</a>.</li> - -<li>Prince's Hall, <a href="#Page_27">27</a>.</li> - -<li>Princetown, <a href="#Page_27">27</a>, <a href="#Page_259">259</a>-71.</li> - -<li>Prisoners, <a href="#Page_261">261</a>.</li> - -<li>Prisons, <a href="#Page_259">259</a>-61.</li> - - -<li class="indx">Quarters of the Forest, <a href="#Page_25">25</a>.</li> - - -<li class="indx">Radford, Daniel, the late, <a href="#Page_132">132</a>.</li> - -<li>Ravens, <a href="#Page_170">170</a>.</li> - -<li>Ravine, Lydford, <a href="#Page_134">134</a>.</li> - -<li>Redlake Mires, <a href="#Page_7">7</a>.</li> - -<li>Redmoor Mire, <a href="#Page_9">9</a>.</li> - -<li>Reservoir, Burra Tor, <a href="#Page_221">221</a>.</li> - -<li>Rock basins, <a href="#Page_78">78</a>-9, <a href="#Page_273">273</a>.</li> - -<li>Rooks, <a href="#Page_254">254</a>.</li> - -<li>Roos Tor, <a href="#Page_78">78</a>.</li> - -<li>Roundy Farm, <a href="#Page_231">231</a>.</li> - -<li>Roundy Pound, <a href="#Page_160">160</a>.</li> - -<li>Row. <em>See</em> Stone rows.</li> - - -<li class="indx">Salubrity of Dartmoor, <a href="#Page_178">178</a>-9, <a href="#Page_259">259</a>-60.</li> - -<li>Samoyeds, <a href="#Page_58">58</a>-9.</li> - -<li>Satterleigh, Sally, <a href="#Page_201">201</a>.</li> - -<li>Scaur Hill Circle, <a href="#Page_160">160</a>.</li> - -<li>Screens in churches, <a href="#Page_163">163</a>, <a href="#Page_171">171</a>, <a href="#Page_172">172</a>, <a href="#Page_210">210</a>, <a href="#Page_228">228</a>, <a href="#Page_275">275</a>.</li> - -<li>Shapleigh Common, <a href="#Page_165">165</a>.</li> - -<li>Sheeps Tor, <a href="#Page_220">220</a>-2, <a href="#Page_228">228</a>, <a href="#Page_236">236</a>.</li> - -<li>Sherrill, <a href="#Page_199">199</a>-200.</li> - -<li>"Silly Doe," ballad, <a href="#Page_222">222</a>.</li> - -<li>Slade, <a href="#Page_219">219</a>.</li> - -<li>Snaily House, <a href="#Page_256">256</a>.</li> - -<li>Sourton Down, <a href="#Page_142">142</a>.</li> - -<li>South Brent church, <a href="#Page_210">210</a>.</li> - -<li>Sparrow-hawk, <a href="#Page_254">254</a>.</li> - -<li>Staple Tor, <a href="#Page_269">269</a>.</li> - -<li>Steeperton Tor, <a href="#Page_146">146</a>, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>.</li> - -<li>Sticklepath, <a href="#Page_149">149</a>-50.</li> - -<li>Stinga Tor, <a href="#Page_141">141</a>.</li> - -<li>Stonehenge, <a href="#Page_31">31</a>, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>.</li> - -<li>Stone rows, <a href="#Page_60">60</a>-2, <a href="#Page_149">149</a>, <a href="#Page_160">160</a>-2, <a href="#Page_163">163</a>, <a href="#Page_176">176</a>, <a href="#Page_212">212</a>, <a href="#Page_213">213</a>, <a href="#Page_268">268</a>-9.</li> - -<li>Sundew, <a href="#Page_11">11</a>.</li> - -<li>Sweet gale, <a href="#Page_11">11</a>-12.</li> - -<li>Swincombe, <a href="#Page_114">114</a>-20, <a href="#Page_203">203</a>.</li> - - -<li class="indx">Tailor lost on the moor, <a href="#Page_4">4</a>-5.</li> - -<li>Taw Marsh, <a href="#Page_146">146</a>-7.</li> - -<li>Teign River, <a href="#Page_160">160</a>, <a href="#Page_162">162</a>, <a href="#Page_164">164</a>.</li> - -<li>Throwleigh, <a href="#Page_156">156</a>, <a href="#Page_163">163</a>.</li> - -<li>Tin, <a href="#Page_22">22</a>, <a href="#Page_30">30</a>;</li> -<li class="isub1">streaming, <a href="#Page_108">108</a>-23.</li> - -<li>Tincombe Lane, <a href="#Page_159">159</a>.</li> - -<li>Tolmens, <a href="#Page_79">79</a>-80, <a href="#Page_162">162</a>, <a href="#Page_269">269</a>.</li> - -<li>Tor Royal, <a href="#Page_271">271</a>.</li> - -<li>Tors, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>-18.</li> - -<li>Tracklines, <a href="#Page_47">47</a>, <a href="#Page_71">71</a>.</li> - -<li>Trackway, great central, <a href="#Page_170">170</a>, <a href="#Page_242">242</a>.</li> - -<li>Trippers, <a href="#Page_217">217</a>-18, <a href="#Page_268">268</a>.</li> - -<li>Tristis Rock, <a href="#Page_213">213</a>.</li> - -<li>Two Bridges, <a href="#Page_268">268</a>.</li> - -<li>Tyrwhitt, Sir Thomas, <a href="#Page_26">26</a>, <a href="#Page_196">196</a>, <a href="#Page_259">259</a>-61, <a href="#Page_271">271</a>. -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_283" id="Page_283">[Pg 283]</a></span></li> -<li>Vectis, <a href="#Page_110">110</a>.</li> - -<li>Venville parishes, <a href="#Page_22">22</a>-3.</li> - -<li>Vitifer, <a href="#Page_170">170</a>.</li> - -<li>Vixen Tor, <a href="#Page_75">75</a>, <a href="#Page_270">270</a>.</li> - -<li>Voices, strange, <a href="#Page_232">232</a>-5.</li> - - -<li class="indx">Walkham River, <a href="#Page_269">269</a>-70.</li> - -<li>Walkhampton church, <a href="#Page_270">270</a>.</li> - -<li>Weekes family, <a href="#Page_151">151</a>-4.</li> - -<li>West Okement valley, <a href="#Page_155">155</a>.</li> - -<li>West Wyke, <a href="#Page_151">151</a>.</li> - -<li>Whitaburrow, <a href="#Page_211">211</a>.</li> - -<li>Whitchurch, <a href="#Page_274">274</a>.</li> - -<li>White ale, <a href="#Page_277">277</a>.</li> - -<li>Whitmoor Stone, <a href="#Page_149">149</a>.</li> - -<li>Whit Tor Camp, <a href="#Page_48">48</a>, <a href="#Page_98">98</a>-100.</li> - -<li>Whortleberry, <a href="#Page_20">20</a>-1.</li> - -<li>Widdecombe-in-the-Moor, <a href="#Page_180">180</a>-2;</li> -<li class="isub1">Fair ballad, <a href="#Page_190">190</a>-2.</li> - -<li>Williams, Sir Thomas, <a href="#Page_214">214</a>.</li> - -<li>Windstrew, <a href="#Page_220">220</a>.</li> - -<li>Wireworm, <a href="#Page_254">254</a>.</li> - -<li>Wistman's Wood, <a href="#Page_271">271</a>-2.</li> - -<li>Wolfram, <a href="#Page_21">21</a>.</li> - -<li>Wren, <a href="#Page_252">252</a>-3.</li> - - -<li class="indx">Yar Tor, <a href="#Page_199">199</a>.</li> - -<li>Yealm River, <a href="#Page_215">215</a>.</li> - -<li>Yelverton, <a href="#Page_220">220</a>.</li> - -<li>Yes Tor, <a href="#Page_155">155</a>.</li> - - -<li class="indx">Zeal Plains, <a href="#Page_210">210</a>.</li> - -<li>Zeal, South, <a href="#Page_150">150</a>-1.</li> -</ul> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_284" id="Page_284">[Pg 284]</a></span></p> - -<p class="center p6">PLYMOUTH<br /> -W. BRENDON AND SON, LIMITED<br /> -PRINTERS -</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_1001" id="Page_1001">[Pg 1001]</a></span></p> -<div class="chapter"></div> -<hr class="chap" /> - - - - -<h2>A CATALOGUE OF BOOKS<br /> -PUBLISHED BY METHUEN<br /> -AND COMPANY: LONDON<br /> -36 ESSEX STREET<br /> -W.C.</h2> -<div class="chapter"></div> -<hr class="chap" /> - - - - -<h3>CONTENTS</h3> - - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="CONTENTS"> - <tr> - <th></th> - <th>PAGE</th> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>General Literature,</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_1002">2</a>-20</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Ancient Cities,</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_1020">20</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Antiquary's Books,</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_1020">20</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Arden Shakespeare,</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_1020">20</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Beginner's Books,</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_1021">21</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Business Books,</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_1021">21</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Byzantine Texts,</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_1021">21</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Churchman's Bible,</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_1022">22</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Churchman's Library,</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_1022">22</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Classical Translations,</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_1022">22</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Classics of Art,</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_1023">23</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Commercial Series,</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_1023">23</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Connoisseur's Library,</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_1023">23</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Library of Devotion,</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_1023">23</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Illustrated Pocket Library of Plain and Coloured Books,</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_1024">24</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Junior Examination Series,</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_1025">25</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Junior School-Books,</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_1026">26</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Leaders of Religion,</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_1026">26</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Little Books on Art,</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_1026">26</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Little Galleries,</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_1027">27</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Little Guides,</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_1027">27</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Little Library,</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_1027">27</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Little Quarto Shakespeare,</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_1029">29</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Miniature Library,</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_1029">29</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Oxford Biographies,</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_1029">29</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>School Examination Series,</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_1029">29</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>School Histories,</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_1030">30</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Textbooks of Science,</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_1030">30</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Simplified French Texts,</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_1030">30</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Standard Library,</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_1030">30</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Textbooks of Technology,</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_1031">31</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Handbooks of Theology,</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_1031">31</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Westminster Commentaries,</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_1032">32</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Fiction,</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_1032">32</a>-37</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>The Shilling Novels,</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_1037">37</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Books for Boys and Girls,</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_1039">39</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Novels of Alexandre Dumas,</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_1039">39</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Methuen's Sixpenny Books,</td> - <td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_1039">39</a></td> - </tr> -</table></div> - -<p class="center">FEBRUARY 1908 -</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_1002" id="Page_1002">[Pg 1002]</a></span></p> - -<p class="ph2">A CATALOGUE OF<br /> -<span class="smcap">Messrs. Methuen's</span><br /> -PUBLICATIONS -</p> -<div class="blockquot"> -<p>Colonial Editions are published of all Messrs. <span class="smcap">Methuen's</span> Novels issued -at a price above 2<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em>, and similar editions are published of some works of -General Literature. These are marked in the Catalogue. Colonial editions -are only for circulation in the British Colonies and India.</p> -</div> -<p class="center">I.P.L. represents Illustrated Pocket Library. -</p> - - -<h3><span class="smcap">Part I.—General Literature</span></h3> - -<div class="hangindent"> - -<p><strong>Abbott (J. H. M.).</strong> Author of 'Tommy -Cornstalk.' AN OUTLANDER IN -ENGLAND: <span class="smcap">Being some Impressions of -an Australian Abroad</span>. <em>Second Edition. -Cr. 8vo. 6s.</em></p> - -<p class="blockquot"> -A Colonial Edition is also published.<br /> -</p> - -<p><strong>Acatos (M. J.).</strong> See Junior School Books.</p> - -<p><strong>Adams (Frank).</strong> JACK SPRATT. With 24 -Coloured Pictures. <em>Super Royal 16mo. 2s.</em></p> - -<p><strong>Adeney (W. F.)</strong>, M.A. See Bennett and -Adeney.</p> - -<p><strong>Æschylus.</strong> See Classical Translations.</p> - -<p><strong>Æsop.</strong> See I.P.L.</p> - -<p><strong>Ainsworth (W. Harrison).</strong> See I.P.L.</p> - -<p><strong>Alderson (J. P.).</strong> MR. ASQUITH. With -Portraits and Illustrations. <em>Demy 8vo. -7s. 6d. net.</em></p> - -<p><strong>Aldis (Janet).</strong> MADAME GEOFFRIN, -HER SALON, AND HER TIMES. -With many Portraits and Illustrations. -<em>Second Edition. Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d. net.</em></p> - -<p class="blockquot"> -A Colonial Edition is also published.<br /> -</p> - -<p><strong>Alexander (William)</strong>, D.D., Archbishop -of Armagh. THOUGHTS AND -COUNSELS OF MANY YEARS. -<em>Demy 16mo. 2s. 6d.</em></p> - -<p><strong>Alken (Henry).</strong> THE NATIONAL -SPORTS OF GREAT BRITAIN. With -descriptions in English and French. With -51 Coloured Plates. <em>Royal Folio. Five -Guineas net.</em> The Plates can be had -separately in a Portfolio. <em>£3, 3s. net.</em></p> - -<p class="blockquot"> -See also I.P.L.<br /> -</p> - -<p><strong>Allen (C. C.).</strong> See Textbooks of Technology.</p> - -<p><strong>Allen (Jessie).</strong> See Little Books on Art.</p> - -<p><strong>Allen (J. Romilly)</strong>, F.S.A. See Antiquary's -Books.</p> - -<p><strong>Almack (E.).</strong> See Little Books on Art.</p> - -<p><strong>Amherst (Lady).</strong> A SKETCH OF -EGYPTIAN HISTORY FROM THE -EARLIEST TIMES TO THE PRESENT -DAY. With many Illustrations. -<em>Demy 8vo. 7s. 6d. net.</em></p> - -<p><strong>Anderson (F. M.).</strong> THE STORY OF THE -BRITISH EMPIRE FOR CHILDREN. -With many Illustrations. <em>Cr. 8vo. 2s.</em></p> - -<p><strong>Anderson (J. G.)</strong>, B.A., Examiner to London -University, NOUVELLE GRAMMAIRE -FRANÇAISE. <em>Cr. 8vo. 2s.</em></p> - -<p>EXERCICES DE GRAMMAIRE FRANÇAISE. -<em>Cr. 8vo. 1s. 6d.</em></p> - -<p><strong>Andrewes (Bishop).</strong> PRECES PRIVATAE. -Edited, with Notes, by <span class="smcap">F. E. -Brightman</span>, M.A., of Pusey House, Oxford. -<em>Cr. 8vo. 6s.</em></p> - -<p><strong>Anglo-Australian.</strong> AFTER-GLOW MEMORIES. -<em>Cr. 8vo. 6s.</em></p> - -<p class="blockquot"> -A Colonial Edition is also published.<br /> -</p> - -<p><strong>Anon.</strong> FELISSA; OR, THE LIFE -AND OPINIONS OF A KITTEN OF -SENTIMENT. With 12 Coloured Plates. -<em>Post 16mo. 2s. 6d. net.</em></p> - -<p><strong>Aristotle.</strong> THE NICOMACHEAN -ETHICS. Edited, with an Introduction -and Notes, by <span class="smcap">John Burnet</span>, M.A., Professor -of Greek at St. Andrews. <em>Cheaper -issue. Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d. net.</em></p> - -<p><strong>Atkins (H. G.).</strong> See Oxford Biographies.</p> - -<p><strong>Atkinson (C. M.).</strong> JEREMY BENTHAM. -<em>Demy 8vo. 5s. net.</em></p> - -<p><strong>Atkinson (T. D.).</strong> A SHORT HISTORY -OF ENGLISH ARCHITECTURE. -With over 200 Illustrations. <em>Second Edition. -Fcap. 8vo. 3s. 6d. net.</em></p> - -<p>A GLOSSARY OF TERMS USED IN -ENGLISH ARCHITECTURE. Illustrated. -<em>Second Ed. Fcap. 8vo. 3s. 6d. net.</em></p> - -<p><strong>Auden (T.)</strong>, M.A., F.S.A. See Ancient Cities.</p> - -<p><strong>Aurelius (Marcus) and Epictetus.</strong> -WORDS OF THE ANCIENT WISE: -Thoughts from. Edited by <span class="smcap">W. H. D. -Rouse</span>, M.A., Litt.D. <em>Fcap. 8vo. 3s. 6d. -net.</em> See also Standard Library.</p> - -<p><strong>Austen (Jane).</strong> See Little Library and -Standard Library.</p> - -<p><strong>Bacon (Francis).</strong> See Little Library and -Standard Library.</p> - -<p><strong>Baden-Powell (R. S. S.)</strong>, Major-General. -THE DOWNFALL OF, PREMPEH. A -Diary of Life in Ashanti 1895. Illustrated. -<em>Third Edition. Large Cr. 8vo. 6s.</em></p> - -<p class="blockquot"> -A Colonial Edition is also published. -</p> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_1003" id="Page_1003">[Pg 1003]</a></span></p> - - -<p>THE MATABELE CAMPAIGN, 1896. -With nearly 100 Illustrations. <em>Fourth -Edition. Large Cr. 8vo. 6s.</em></p> - -<p class="blockquot"> -A Colonial Edition is also published.<br /> -</p> - -<p><strong>Bailey (J. C.)</strong>, M.A. See Cowper.</p> - -<p><strong>Baker (W. G.)</strong>, M.A. See Junior Examination -Series.</p> - -<p><strong>Baker (Julian L.)</strong>, F.I.C., F.C.S. See Books -on Business.</p> - -<p><strong>Balfour (Graham).</strong> THE LIFE OF -ROBERT LOUIS STEVENSON. <em>Fourth -Edition. Revised. Cr. 8vo. 6s.</em></p> - -<p class="blockquot"> -A Colonial Edition is also published.<br /> -</p> - -<p><strong>Ballard (A.)</strong>, B.A., LL.B. See Antiquary's -Books.</p> - -<p><strong>Bally (S. E.).</strong> See Commercial Series.</p> - -<p><strong>Banks (Elizabeth L.).</strong> THE AUTOBIOGRAPHY -OF A 'NEWSPAPER -GIRL.' <em>Second Edition. Cr. 8vo. 6s.</em></p> - -<p class="blockquot"> -A Colonial Edition is also published.<br /> -</p> - -<p><strong>Barham (R. H.).</strong> See Little Library.</p> - -<p><strong>Baring (The Hon. Maurice).</strong> WITH -THE RUSSIANS IN MANCHURIA. -<em>Third Edition. Demy 8vo. 7s. 6d. net.</em></p> - -<p class="blockquot"> -A Colonial Edition is also published.<br /> -</p> - -<p>A YEAR IN RUSSIA. <em>Second Edition. -Demy 8vo. 7s. 6d.</em></p> - -<p><strong>Baring-Gould (S.).</strong> THE LIFE OF -NAPOLEON BONAPARTE. With over -150 Illustrations in the Text, and a Photogravure -Frontispiece. <em>Royal 8vo. 10s. 6d. net.</em></p> - -<p>THE TRAGEDY OF THE CÆSARS. -With numerous Illustrations from Busts, -Gems, Cameos, etc. <em>Sixth Edition. Royal -8vo. 10s. 6d. net.</em></p> - -<p>A BOOK OF FAIRY TALES. 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With over 100 -Coloured Plates and many Illustrations. -<em>Two Volumes. Royal 8vo. £3, 3s. net.</em></p> - -<p><strong>Buist (H. Massac).</strong> THE MOTOR YEAR -BOOK AND AUTOMOBILISTS' -ANNUAL FOR 1906. <em>Demy 8vo. 7s. 6d. -net.</em></p> - -<p><strong>Bull (Paul)</strong>, Army Chaplain. GOD AND -OUR SOLDIERS. <em>Second Edition. -Cr. 8vo. 6s.</em></p> - -<p><strong>Bulley (Miss).</strong> See Lady Dilke.</p> - -<p><strong>Bunyan (John).</strong> THE PILGRIM'S PROGRESS. -Edited, with an Introduction -by <span class="smcap">C. H. Firth</span>, M.A. With 39 Illustrations -by <span class="smcap">R. Anning Bell</span>. <em>Cr. 8vo. 6s.</em></p> - -<p class="blockquot">See also Library of Devotion and -Standard Library.</p> - -<p><strong>Burch (G. J.)</strong>, M.A., F.R.S. A MANUAL -OF ELECTRICAL SCIENCE. Illustrated. -<em>Cr. 8vo. 3s.</em></p> - -<p><strong>Burgess (Gelett).</strong> GOOPS AND HOW TO -BE THEM. 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F.)</strong>, M.A. OLD TESTAMENT -HISTORY FOR USE IN -SCHOOLS. <em>Third Edition. Cr. 8vo. -3s. 6d.</em></p> - -<p><strong>Burton (Alfred).</strong> See I.P.L.</p> - -<p><strong>Bussell (F. W.)</strong>, D.D., Fellow and Vice -Principal of Brasenose College, Oxford. -CHRISTIAN THEOLOGY AND SOCIAL -PROGRESS: The Bampton -Lectures for 1905. <em>Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d. net.</em></p> - -<p><strong>Butler (Joseph).</strong> See Standard Library.</p> - -<p><strong>Caldecott (Alfred)</strong>, D.D. See Handbooks -of Theology.</p> - -<p><strong>Calderwood (D. S.)</strong>, Headmaster of the Normal -School, Edinburgh. TEST CARDS -IN EUCLID AND ALGEBRA. In three -packets of 40, with Answers, 1<em>s.</em> each. Or -in three Books, price 2<em>d.</em>, 2<em>d.</em>, and 3<em>d.</em></p> - -<p><strong>Cambridge (Ada) [Mrs. Cross].</strong> THIRTY -YEARS IN AUSTRALIA. <em>Demy 8vo. -7s. 6d.</em></p> - -<p><strong>Canning (George).</strong> See Little Library.</p> - -<p><strong>Capey (E. F. 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A Drama. -Translated by <span class="smcap">William Wilson</span>. <em>Third -Edition. Cr. 8vo. 3s. 6d.</em></p> - -<p><strong>Inge (W. R.)</strong>, M.A., Fellow and Tutor of -Hertford College, Oxford. CHRISTIAN -MYSTICISM. The Bampton Lectures for -1899. <em>Demy 8vo. 12s. 6d. net.</em> See also -Library of Devotion.</p> - -<p><strong>Innes (A. D.)</strong>, M.A. A HISTORY OF THE -BRITISH IN INDIA. With Maps and -Plans. <em>Cr. 8vo. 6s.</em></p> - -<p>ENGLAND UNDER THE TUDORS. -With Maps. <em>Second Edition. Demy 8vo. -10s. 6d. net.</em></p> - -<p><strong>Jackson (C. E.)</strong>, B.A. See Textbooks of -Science.</p> - -<p><strong>Jackson (S.)</strong>, M.A. See Commercial Series.</p> - -<p><strong>Jackson (F. Hamilton).</strong> See Little Guides.</p> - -<p><strong>Jacob (F.)</strong>, M.A. See Junior Examination -Series.</p> - -<p><strong>James (W. H. N.)</strong>, A.R.C.S., A.I.E.E. See -Textbooks of Technology.</p> - -<p><strong>Jeans (J. Stephen).</strong> TRUSTS, POOLS, -AND CORNERS. <em>Cr. 8vo. 2s. 6d.</em></p> - -<p class="blockquot"> -See also Books on Business.<br /> -</p> - -<p><strong>Jeffreys (D. Gwyn).</strong> DOLLY'S THEATRICALS. -Described and Illustrated with 24 -Coloured Pictures. <em>Super Royal 16mo. 2s. 6d.</em></p> - -<p><strong>Jenks (E.)</strong>, M.A., Reader of Law in the -University of Oxford. ENGLISH LOCAL -GOVERNMENT. <em>Second Edition. Cr. -8vo. 2s. 6d.</em></p> - -<p><strong>Jenner (Mrs. H.).</strong> See Little Books on Art.</p> - -<p><strong>Jennings (Oscar)</strong>, M.D., Member of the -Bibliographical Society. EARLY WOODCUT -INITIALS, containing over thirteen -hundred Reproductions of Pictorial Letters -of the Fifteenth and Sixteenth Centuries. -<em>Demy 4to. 21s. net.</em></p> - -<p><strong>Jessopp (Augustus)</strong>, D.D. See Leaders of -Religion.</p> - -<p><strong>Jevons (F. B.)</strong>, M.A., Litt. D., Principal of -Bishop Hatfield's Hall, Durham. RELIGION -IN EVOLUTION. <em>Cr. 8vo. -3s. 6d. net.</em></p> - -<p class="blockquot">See also Churchman's Library and Handbooks -of Theology.</p> - -<p><strong>Johnson (Mrs. Barham).</strong> WILLIAM BODHAM -DONNE AND HIS FRIENDS. -Illustrated. <em>Demy 8vo. 10s. 6d. net.</em></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_1011" id="Page_1011">[Pg 1011]</a></span></p> - -<p><strong>Johnston (Sir H. H.)</strong>, K.C.B. BRITISH -CENTRAL AFRICA. With nearly 200 -Illustrations and Six Maps. <em>Third Edition. -Cr. 4to. 18s. net.</em></p> - -<p class="blockquot"> -A Colonial Edition is also published.<br /> -</p> - -<p><strong>Jones (R. Crompton)</strong>, M.A. POEMS -OF THE INNER LIFE. Selected by. -<em>Thirteenth Edition. Fcap. 8vo. 2s. 6d. net.</em></p> - -<p><strong>Jones (H.).</strong> See Commercial Series.</p> - -<p><strong>Jones (H. F.).</strong> See Textbooks of Science.</p> - -<p><strong>Jones (L. A. Atherley)</strong>, K.C., M.P. 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Demy 8vo. -7s. 6d. net.</em></p> - -<p>REALMS OF GOLD. Selections from the -Works of. <em>Fcap. 8vo. 3s. 6d. net.</em></p> - -<p class="blockquot"> -See also Little Library and Standard Library.<br /> -</p> - -<p><strong>Keble (John).</strong> THE CHRISTIAN YEAR. -With an Introduction and Notes by <span class="smcap">W. Lock</span>, -D.D., Warden of Keble College. Illustrated -by <span class="smcap">R. Anning Bell</span>. <em>Third Edition. Fcap. -8vo. 3s. 6d.; padded morocco, 5s.</em></p> - -<p class="blockquot"> -See also Library of Devotion.<br /> -</p> - -<p><strong>Kelynack (T. N.)</strong>, M.D., M.R.C.P., Hon. -Secretary of the Society for the Study of -Inebriety. THE DRINK PROBLEM -IN ITS MEDICO-SOCIOLOGICAL -ASPECT. Edited by. With 2 Diagrams. -<em>Demy 8vo. 7s. 6d. net.</em></p> - -<p><strong>Kempis (Thomas à).</strong> THE IMITATION -OF CHRIST. With an Introduction by -<span class="smcap">Dean Farrar</span>. Illustrated by <span class="smcap">C. M. Gere</span>. -<em>Third Edition. Fcap. 8vo. 3s. 6d.; padded -morocco. 5s.</em></p> - -<p class="blockquot">Also Translated by <span class="smcap">C. Bigg</span>, D.D. <em>Cr. -8vo. 3s. 6d.</em> See also Library of Devotion -and Standard Library.</p> - -<p><strong>Kennedy (Bart.).</strong> THE GREEN -SPHINX. <em>Cr. 8vo. 3s. 6d. net.</em></p> - -<p class="blockquot"> -A Colonial Edition is also published.<br /> -</p> - -<p><strong>Kennedy (James Houghton)</strong>, D.D., Assistant -Lecturer in Divinity in the University of -Dublin. ST. PAUL'S SECOND AND -THIRD EPISTLES TO THE CORINTHIANS. -With Introduction, Dissertations -and Notes. <em>Cr. 8vo. 6s.</em></p> - -<p><strong>Kimmins (C. W.)</strong>, M.A. THE CHEMISTRY -OF LIFE AND HEALTH. Illustrated. -<em>Cr. 8vo. 2s. 6d.</em></p> - -<p><strong>Kinglake (A. W.).</strong> See Little Library.</p> - -<p><strong>Kipling (Rudyard).</strong> BARRACK-ROOM -BALLADS. <em>82nd Thousand. Twenty-third -Edition. Cr. 8vo. 6s.</em></p> - -<p class="blockquot"> -A Colonial Edition is also published.<br /> -</p> - -<p>THE SEVEN SEAS. <em>65th Thousand. -Eleventh Edition. Cr. 8vo. 6s.</em></p> - -<p class="blockquot"> -A Colonial Edition is also published.<br /> -</p> - -<p>THE FIVE NATIONS. <em>42nd Thousand. -Third Edition. Cr. 8vo. 6s.</em></p> - -<p class="blockquot"> -A Colonial Edition is also published.<br /> -</p> - -<p>DEPARTMENTAL DITTIES. <em>Sixteenth -Edition. Cr. 8vo. 6s.</em></p> - -<p class="blockquot"> -A Colonial Edition is also published.<br /> -</p> - -<p><strong>Knight (Albert E.).</strong> THE COMPLETE -CRICKETER. Illus. <em>Demy 8vo. 7s. 6d. net.</em></p> - -<p class="blockquot"> -A Colonial Edition is also published.<br /> -</p> - -<p><strong>Knight (H. J. C.)</strong>, M.A. See Churchman -Bible.</p> - -<p><strong>Knowling (R. J.)</strong>, M.A., Professor of New -Testament Exegesis at King's College, -London. 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Its Principles -and Application, with Solutions to -Examination Questions, 1892-1905, Orthographic, -Isometric and Oblique Projection. -With 50 Plates and 140 Figures. <em>Foolscap. -5s. net.</em></p> - -<p><strong>Suddards (F.).</strong> See C. Stephenson.</p> - -<p><strong>Surtees (R. S.).</strong> See I.P.L.</p> - -<p><strong>Symes (J. E.)</strong>, M.A. THE FRENCH -REVOLUTION. <em>Second Edition. Cr. 8vo. -2s. 6d.</em></p> - -<p><strong>Sympson (E. M.)</strong>, M.A., M.D. See Ancient -Cities.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_1018" id="Page_1018">[Pg 1018]</a></span></p> - -<p><strong>Tacitus.</strong> AGRICOLA. With Introduction -Notes, Map, etc., by <span class="smcap">R. F. Davis</span>, M.A. -<em>Fcap. 8vo. 2s.</em></p> - -<p>GERMANIA. 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Illustrated. <em>Second Ed.</em></p> - -<p><strong>Tennyson (Alfred, Lord).</strong> THE EARLY -POEMS OF. Edited, with Notes and -an Introduction, by <span class="smcap">J. Churton Collins</span>, -M.A. <em>Cr. 8vo. 6s.</em></p> - -<p>IN MEMORIAM, MAUD, AND THE -PRINCESS. Edited by <span class="smcap">J. Churton -Collins</span>, M.A. <em>Cr. 8vo. 6s.</em> See also -Little Library.</p> - -<p><strong>Terry (C. S.).</strong> See Oxford Biographies.</p> - -<p><strong>Thackeray (W. M.).</strong> See Little Library.</p> - -<p><strong>Theobald (F. V.)</strong>, M.A. INSECT LIFE. -Illustrated. <em>Second Edition Revised. Cr. -8vo. 2s. 6d.</em></p> - -<p><strong>Thompson (A. H.).</strong> See Little Guides.</p> - -<p><strong>Tileston (Mary W.).</strong> DAILY STRENGTH -FOR DAILY NEEDS. <em>Fourteenth Edition. -Medium 16mo. 2s. 6d. net.</em> Also an -edition in superior binding, <em>6s.</em></p> - -<p><strong>Tompkins (H. W.)</strong>, F.R.H.S. 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With a Record -of the Expedition of 1903-1904. With 155 -Illustrations and Maps. <em>Third and -Cheaper Edition. Demy 8vo. 7s. 6d. net.</em></p> - -<p><strong>Wade (G. W.)</strong>, D.D. OLD TESTAMENT -HISTORY. With Maps. <em>Fifth Edition. -Cr. 8vo. 6s.</em></p> - -<p><strong>Wagner (Richard).</strong> MUSIC DRAMAS: -Interpretations, embodying Wagner's own -explanations. By <span class="smcap">A. L. Cleather</span> and -<span class="smcap">B. Crump</span>. <em>In Four Volumes. Fcap 8vo. -2s. 6d. each.</em></p> - -<div class="blockquot"> -<p><span class="smcap">Vol. i.</span>—<span class="smcap">The Ring of the Nibelung.</span> -<em>Third Edition.</em></p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Vol. ii.</span>—<span class="smcap">Parsifal</span>, <span class="smcap">Lohengrin</span>, and -<span class="smcap">The Holy Grail</span>.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Vol. iii.</span>—<span class="smcap">Tristan and Isolde.</span></p> -</div> - -<p><strong>Wall (J. C.).</strong> DEVILS. Illustrated by the -Author and from photographs. <em>Demy 8vo. -4s. 6d. net.</em> See also Antiquary's Books.</p> - -<p><strong>Walters (H. B.).</strong> See Little Books on Art -and Classics of Art.</p> - -<p><strong>Walton (F. W.).</strong> See School Histories.</p> - -<p><strong>Walton (Izaac)</strong> and <strong>Cotton (Charles)</strong>. -See I.P.L., Standard Library, and Little -Library.</p> - -<p><strong>Warren-Vernon (Hon. William)</strong>, M.A. -READINGS ON THE INFERNO OF -DANTE, based on the Commentary of -<span class="smcap">Benvenuto da Imola</span> and other authorities. -With an Introduction by the Rev. Dr. -<span class="smcap">Moore</span>. In Two Volumes. <em>Second Edition</em>, -entirely re-written. <em>Cr. 8vo. 15s. net.</em></p> - -<p><strong>Waterhouse (Mrs. Alfred).</strong> WITH THE -SIMPLE-HEARTED: Little Homilies to -Women in Country Places. <em>Second Edition. -Small Pott 8vo. 2s. net.</em></p> - -<p class="blockquot"> -See also Little Library.<br /> -</p> - -<p><strong>Watt (Francis).</strong> See T. F. Henderson.</p> - -<p><strong>Weatherhead (T. C.)</strong>, M.A. EXAMINATION -PAPERS IN HORACE. <em>Cr. 8vo. -2s.</em> See also Junior Examination Series.</p> - -<p><strong>Webber (F. C.).</strong> See Textbooks of Technology.</p> - -<p><strong>Weir (Archibald)</strong>, M.A. AN INTRODUCTION -TO THE HISTORY OF -MODERN EUROPE. <em>Cr. 8vo. 6s.</em></p> - -<p><strong>Wells (Sidney H.).</strong> See Textbooks of Science.</p> - -<p><strong>Wells (J.)</strong>, M. A., Fellow and Tutor of Wadham -College. OXFORD AND OXFORD -LIFE. <em>Third Edition. Cr. 8vo. 3s. 6d.</em></p> - -<p>A SHORT HISTORY OF ROME. <em>Eighth -Edition.</em> With 3 Maps. <em>Cr. 8vo. 3s. 6d.</em></p> - -<p class="blockquot"> -See also Little Guides.<br /> -</p> - -<p><strong>Wheldon (F. W.).</strong> A LITTLE BROTHER -TO THE BIRDS. With 15 Illustrations,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_1019" id="Page_1019">[Pg 1019]</a></span> -7 of which are by <span class="smcap">A. H. Buckland</span>. <em>Large -Cr. 8vo. 6s.</em></p> - -<p><strong>Whibley (C).</strong> See W. E. Henley.</p> - -<p><strong>Whibley (L.)</strong>, M.A., Fellow of Pembroke -College, Cambridge. GREEK OLIGARCHIES: -THEIR ORGANISATION -AND CHARACTER. <em>Cr. 8vo. 6s.</em></p> - -<p><strong>Whitaker (G. H.)</strong>, M.A. See Churchman's -Bible.</p> - -<p><strong>White (Gilbert).</strong> THE NATURAL -HISTORY OF SELBORNE. Edited by -<span class="smcap">L. C. Miall</span>, F.R.S., assisted by <span class="smcap">W. Warde -Fowler</span>, M.A. <em>Cr. 8vo. 6s.</em></p> - -<p class="blockquot"> -See also Standard Library.<br /> -</p> - -<p><strong>Whitfield (E. E.).</strong> See Commercial Series.</p> - -<p><strong>Whitehead (A. W.).</strong> GASPARD DE -COLIGNY. Illustrated. <em>Demy 8vo. -12s. 6d. net.</em></p> - -<p><strong>Whiteley (R. Lloyd)</strong>, F.I.C., Principal of -the Municipal Science School, West Bromwich. -AN ELEMENTARY TEXTBOOK -OF INORGANIC CHEMISTRY. -<em>Cr. 8vo. 2s. 6d.</em></p> - -<p><strong>Whitley (Miss).</strong> See Lady Dilke.</p> - -<p><strong>Whitten (W.).</strong> See John Thomas Smith.</p> - -<p><strong>Whyte (A. G.)</strong>, B.Sc. See Books on Business.</p> - -<p><strong>Wilberforce (Wilfrid).</strong> See Little Books -on Art.</p> - -<p><strong>Wilde (Oscar).</strong> DE PROFUNDIS. <em>Eleventh -Edition. Cr. 8vo. 5s. net.</em></p> - -<p class="blockquot"> -A Colonial Edition is also published.<br /> -</p> - -<p>THE DUCHESS OF PADUA. <em>Demy 8vo. -12s. 6d. net.</em></p> - -<p>POEMS. <em>Demy 8vo. 12s. 6d. net.</em></p> - -<p>INTENTIONS. <em>Demy 8vo. 12s. 6d. net.</em></p> - -<p>SALOME, AND OTHER PLAYS. <em>Demy -8vo. 12s. 6d. net.</em></p> - -<p>LADY WINDERMERE'S FAN. <em>Demy -8vo. 12s. 6d. net.</em></p> - -<p>A WOMAN OF NO IMPORTANCE. -<em>Demy 8vo. 12s. 6d. net.</em></p> - -<p>AN IDEAL HUSBAND. <em>Demy 8vo. -12s. 6d. net.</em></p> - -<p>THE IMPORTANCE OF BEING EARNEST. -<em>Demy 8vo. 12s. 6d. net.</em></p> - -<p>A HOUSE OF POMEGRANATES and -THE HAPPY PRINCE. <em>Demy 8vo. -12s. 6d. net.</em></p> - -<p>LORD ARTHUR SAVILE'S CRIME and -OTHER PROSE PIECES. <em>Demy 8vo. -12s. 6d. net.</em></p> - -<p><strong>Wilkins (W. H.)</strong>, B.A. THE ALIEN -INVASION. <em>Cr. 8vo. 2s. 6d.</em></p> - -<p><strong>Williams (A.).</strong> PETROL PETER: or -Pretty Stories and Funny Pictures. Illustrated -in Colour by <span class="smcap">A. W. Mills</span>. <em>Demy -4to. 3s. 6d. net.</em></p> - -<p><strong>Williamson (M. G.).</strong> See Ancient Cities.</p> - -<p><strong>Williamson (W.).</strong> THE BRITISH -GARDENER. Illustrated. <em>Demy 8vo. -10s. 6d.</em></p> - -<p><strong>Williamson (W.)</strong>, B.A. See Junior Examination -Series, Junior School Books, and -Beginner's Books.</p> - -<p><strong>Willson (Beckles).</strong> LORD STRATHCONA: -the Story of his Life. Illustrated. -<em>Demy 8vo. 7s. 6d.</em></p> - -<p class="blockquot"> -A Colonial Edition is also published.<br /> -</p> - -<p><strong>Wilmot-Buxton (E. M.).</strong> MAKERS OF -EUROPE. <em>Cr. 8vo. Eighth Ed. 3s. 6d.</em></p> - -<p class="blockquot">A Text-book of European History for -Middle Forms.</p> - -<p>THE ANCIENT WORLD. With Maps and -Illustrations. <em>Cr. 8vo. 3s. 6d.</em></p> - -<p class="blockquot"> -See also Beginner's Books.<br /> -</p> - -<p><strong>Wilson (Bishop.).</strong> See Library of Devotion.</p> - -<p><strong>Wilson (A. J.).</strong> See Books on Business.</p> - -<p><strong>Wilson (H. A.).</strong> See Books on Business.</p> - -<p><strong>Wilson (J. A).</strong> See Simplified French -Texts.</p> - -<p><strong>Wilton (Richard)</strong>, M.A. LYRA PASTORALIS: -Songs of Nature, Church, and -Home. <em>Pott 8vo. 2s. 6d.</em></p> - -<p><strong>Winbolt (S. E.)</strong>, M.A. EXERCISES IN -LATIN ACCIDENCE. <em>Cr. 8vo. 1s. 6d.</em></p> - -<p>LATIN HEXAMETER VERSE: An Aid -to Composition. <em>Cr. 8vo. 3s. 6d.</em> <span class="smcap">Key</span>, -<em>5s. net.</em></p> - -<p><strong>Windle (B. C. A.)</strong>, F.R.S., F.S.A. See Antiquary's -Books, Little Guides, Ancient -Cities, and School Histories.</p> - -<p><strong>Winterbotham (Canon)</strong>, M.A., B.Sc., -LL.B. See Churchman's Library.</p> - -<p><strong>Wood (Sir Evelyn)</strong>, F.M., V.C., G.C.B., -G.C.M.G. FROM MIDSHIPMAN TO -FIELD-MARSHAL. With 24 Illustrations -and Maps. <em>A New and Cheaper -Edition. Demy 8vo. 7s. 6d. net.</em></p> - -<p class="blockquot"> -A Colonial Edition is also published.<br /> -</p> - -<p><strong>Wood (J. A. E.).</strong> See Textbooks of -Technology.</p> - -<p><strong>Wood (J. Hickory).</strong> DAN LENO. Illustrated. -<em>Third Edition. Cr. 8vo. 6s.</em></p> - -<p class="blockquot"> -A Colonial Edition is also published.<br /> -</p> - -<p><strong>Wood (W. Birkbeck)</strong>, M.A., late Scholar of -Worcester College, Oxford, and <strong>Edmonds -(Major J. E.)</strong>, R.E., D.A.Q.-M.G. A -HISTORY OF THE CIVIL WAR IN -THE UNITED STATES. With an -Introduction by <span class="smcap">H. Spenser Wilkinson</span>. -With 24 Maps and Plans. <em>Second Edition. -Demy 8vo. 12s. 6d. net.</em></p> - -<p><strong>Wordsworth (Christopher).</strong> See Antiquary's -Books.</p> - -<p><strong>Wordsworth (W.).</strong> POEMS BY. Selected -by <span class="smcap">Stopford A. Brooke</span>. With 40 Illustrations -by <span class="smcap">Edmund H. New</span>. With a -Frontispiece in Photogravure. <em>Demy 8vo. -7s. 6d. net.</em></p> - -<p class="blockquot"> -A Colonial Edition is also published.<br /> -</p> - -<p><strong>Wordsworth (W.)</strong> and <strong>Coleridge (S. T.)</strong>. -See Little Library.</p> - -<p><strong>Wright (Arthur)</strong>, D.D., Fellow of Queen's -College, Cambridge. See Churchman's -Library.</p> - -<p><strong>Wright (C. Gordon).</strong> See Dante.</p> - -<p><strong>Wright (J. C.).</strong> TO-DAY. <em>Demy 16mo. -1s. 6d. net.</em></p> - -<p><strong>Wright (Sophie).</strong> GERMAN VOCABULARIES -FOR REPETITION. <em>Fcap. 8vo. -1s. 6d.</em></p> - -<p><strong>Wrong (George M.)</strong>, Professor of History -in the University of Toronto. THE -EARL OF ELGIN. Illustrated. <em>Demy -8vo. 7s. 6d. net.</em></p> - -<p class="blockquot"> -A Colonial Edition is also published.<br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_1020" id="Page_1020">[Pg 1020]</a></span></p> - -<p><strong>Wyatt (Kate M.).</strong> See M. R. Gloag.</p> - -<p><strong>Wylde (A. B.).</strong> MODERN ABYSSINIA. -With a Map and a Portrait. <em>Demy 8vo. -15s. net.</em></p> - -<p class="blockquot"> -A Colonial Edition is also published.<br /> -</p> - -<p><strong>Wyndham (Rt. Hon. George)</strong>, M.P. THE -POEMS OF WILLIAM SHAKESPEARE. -With an Introduction and -Notes. <em>Demy 8vo. Buckram, gilt top. -10s. 6d.</em></p> - -<p><strong>Wyon (R.)</strong> and <strong>Prance (G.)</strong>. THE LAND -OF THE BLACK MOUNTAIN. Being -a Description of Montenegro. With 40 -Illustrations. <em>Cr. 8vo. 2s. 6d. net.</em></p> - -<p><strong>Yeats (W. B.).</strong> A BOOK OF IRISH -VERSE. Selected from Modern Writers. -<em>Revised and Enlarged Edition. Cr. 8vo. -3s. 6d.</em></p> - -<p><strong>Young (Filson).</strong> THE COMPLETE -MOTORIST. With 138 Illustrations. -<em>Seventh Edition, Revised and Rewritten. -Demy. 8vo. 12s. 6d. net.</em></p> - -<p class="blockquot"> -A Colonial Edition is also published.<br /> -</p> - -<p>THE JOY OF THE ROAD: An Appreciation -of the Motor Car. <em>Small Demy 8vo. -5s. net.</em></p> - -<p><strong>Young (T. M.).</strong> THE AMERICAN -COTTON INDUSTRY: A Study of -Work and Workers. <em>Cr. 8vo. Cloth, 2s. 6d.; -paper boards, 1s. 6d.</em></p> - -<p><strong>Zimmern (Antonia).</strong> WHAT DO WE -KNOW CONCERNING ELECTRICITY? -<em>Fcap. 8vo. 1s. 6d. net.</em></p></div> - - -<h4>Ancient Cities</h4> - -<p class="center">General Editor, B. C. A. WINDLE, D.Sc., F.R.S.</p> - -<p class="center"><em>Cr. 8vo. 4s. 6d. net.</em> -</p> - -<div class="hangindent"> - -<p><span class="smcap">Chester.</span> By B. C. A. Windle, D.Sc. F.R.S. -Illustrated by E. H. New.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Shrewsbury.</span> By T. Auden, M.A., F.S.A. -Illustrated.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Canterbury.</span> By J. C. Cox, LL.D., F.S.A. -Illustrated.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Edinburgh.</span> By M. G. Williamson, M.A. -Illustrated by Herbert Railton.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Lincoln.</span> By E. Mansel Sympson, M.A., -M.D. Illustrated by E. H. New.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Bristol.</span> By Alfred Harvey. Illustrated -by E. H. New.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Dublin.</span> By S. A. O. Fitzpatrick. Illustrated -by W. C. Green.</p></div> - - -<h4>The Antiquary's Books</h4> - -<p class="center">General Editor, J. 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The Illustrations are chiefly in colour.</p> - - -<h5>COLOURED BOOKS</h5> - -<div class="hangindent"> - -<p><span class="smcap">Old Coloured Books.</span> By George Paston. -With 16 Coloured Plates. <em>Fcap. 8vo. 2s. net.</em></p> - -<p><span class="smcap">The Life and Death of John Mytton, Esq.</span> -By Nimrod. With 18 Coloured Plates by -Henry Alken and T. J. Rawlins. <em>Fourth -Edition.</em></p> - -<p><span class="smcap">The Life of a Sportsman.</span> By Nimrod. -With 35 Coloured Plates by Henry Alken.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Handley Cross.</span> By R. S. Surtees. With -17 Coloured Plates and 100 Woodcuts in the -Text by John Leech. <em>Second Edition.</em></p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Mr. Sponge's Sporting Tour.</span> By R. S. -Surtees. With 13 Coloured Plates and 90 -Woodcuts in the Text by John Leech.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Jorrocks' Jaunts and Jollities.</span> By R. S. -Surtees. With 15 Coloured Plates by H. -Alken. <em>Second Edition.</em></p> - -<p class="blockquot">This volume is reprinted from the extremely -rare and costly edition of 1843, which -contains Alken's very fine illustrations -instead of the usual ones by Phiz.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Ask Mamma.</span> By R. S. Surtees. With 13 -Coloured Plates and 70 Woodcuts in the -Text by John Leech.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">The Analysis of the Hunting Field.</span> By -R. S. Surtees. With 7 Coloured Plates by -Henry Alken, and 43 Illustrations on Wood.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">The Tour of Dr. Syntax in Search of -the Picturesque.</span> By William Combe. -With 30 Coloured Plates by T. Rowlandson.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">The Tour of Doctor Syntax in Search -of Consolation.</span> By William Combe. -With 24 Coloured Plates by T. Rowlandson.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">The Third Tour of Doctor Syntax in -Search of a Wife.</span> By William Combe. -With 24 Coloured Plates by T. Rowlandson.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">The History of Johnny Quae Genus</span>: the -Little Foundling of the late Dr. Syntax. -By the Author of 'The Three Tours.' With -24 Coloured Plates by Rowlandson.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">The English Dance of Death</span>, from the -Designs of T. Rowlandson, with Metrical -Illustrations by the Author of 'Doctor -Syntax.' <em>Two Volumes.</em></p> - -<p class="blockquot"> -This book contains 76 Coloured Plates.<br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">The Dance of Life</span>: A Poem. By the Author -of 'Doctor Syntax.' Illustrated with 26 -Coloured Engravings by T. Rowlandson.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_1025" id="Page_1025">[Pg 1025]</a></span></p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Life in London</span>: or, the Day and Night -Scenes of Jerry Hawthorn, Esq., and his -Elegant Friend, Corinthian Tom. By -Pierce Egan. With 36 Coloured Plates by -I. R. and G. Cruikshank. With numerous -Designs on Wood.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Real Life in London</span>: or, the Rambles -and Adventures of Bob Tallyho, Esq., and -his Cousin, The Hon. Tom Dashall. By an -Amateur (Pierce Egan). With 31 Coloured -Plates by Alken and Rowlandson, etc. -<em>Two Volumes.</em></p> - -<p><span class="smcap">The Life of an Actor.</span> By Pierce Egan. -With 27 Coloured Plates by Theodore Lane, -and several Designs on Wood.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">The Vicar of Wakefield.</span> By Oliver Goldsmith. -With 24 Coloured Plates by T. Rowlandson.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">The Military Adventures of Johnny -Newcome.</span> By an Officer. With 15 Coloured -Plates by T. Rowlandson.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">The National Sports of Great Britain.</span> -With Descriptions and 51 Coloured Plates -by Henry Alken.</p> - -<p class="blockquot">This book is completely different from the -large folio edition of 'National Sports' by -the same artist, and none of the plates are -similar.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">The Adventures of a Post Captain.</span> By -A Naval Officer. With 24 Coloured Plates -by Mr. Williams.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Gamonia</span>: or, the Art of Preserving Game; -and an Improved Method of making Plantations -and Covers, explained and illustrated -by Lawrence Rawstorne, Esq. With 15 -Coloured Plates by T. Rawlins.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">An Academy for Grown Horsemen</span>: Containing -the completest Instructions for -Walking, Trotting, Cantering, Galloping, -Stumbling, and Tumbling. Illustrated with -27 Coloured Plates, and adorned with a -Portrait of the Author. By Geoffrey -Gambado, Esq.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Real Life in Ireland</span>, or, the Day and -Night Scenes of Brian Boru, Esq., and his -Elegant Friend, Sir Shawn O'Dogherty. -By a Real Paddy. With 19 Coloured Plates -by Heath, Marks, etc.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">The Adventures of Johnny Newcome in -the Navy.</span> By Alfred Burton. With 16 -Coloured Plates by T. Rowlandson.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">The Old English Squire</span>: A Poem. By -John Careless, Esq. With 20 Coloured -Plates after the style of T. Rowlandson.</p></div> - - -<h5>PLAIN BOOKS</h5> - -<div class="hangindent"> - -<p><span class="smcap">The Grave</span>: A Poem. By Robert Blair. -Illustrated by 12 Etchings executed by Louis -Schiavonetti from the original Inventions of -William Blake. With an Engraved Title Page -and a Portrait of Blake by T. Phillips, R.A.</p> - -<p class="blockquot"> -The illustrations are reproduced in photogravure.<br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Illustrations of the Book of Job.</span> Invented -and engraved by William Blake.</p> - -<p class="blockquot"> -These famous Illustrations—21 in number—are reproduced in photogravure.<br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Æsop's Fables.</span> With 380 Woodcuts by -Thomas Bewick.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Windsor Castle.</span> By W. Harrison Ainsworth. -With 22 Plates and 87 Woodcuts in the Text -by George Cruikshank.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">The Tower of London.</span> By W. Harrison -Ainsworth. With 40 Plates and 58 Woodcuts -in the Text by George Cruikshank.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Frank Fairlegh.</span> By F. E. Smedley. With -30 Plates by George Cruikshank.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Handy Andy.</span> By Samuel Lover. With 24 -Illustrations by the Author.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">The Compleat Angler.</span> By Izaak Walton -and Charles Cotton. With 14 Plates and 77 -Woodcuts in the Text.</p> - -<p class="blockquot">This volume is reproduced from the beautiful -edition of John Major of 1824.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">The Pickwick Papers.</span> By Charles Dickens. -With the 43 Illustrations by Seymour and -Phiz, the two Buss Plates, and the 32 Contemporary -Onwhyn Plates.</p></div> - - -<h4>Junior Examination Series</h4> - -<p class="center">Edited by A. M. M. STEDMAN, M.A. <em>Fcap. 8vo. 1s.</em> -</p> - -<div class="hangindent"> - -<p><span class="smcap">Junior French Examination Papers.</span> By -F. Jacob, M.A. <em>Second Edition.</em></p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Junior Latin Examination Papers.</span> By C. -G. Botting, B.A. <em>Fourth Edition.</em></p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Junior English Examination Papers.</span> By -W. 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WILLIAMSON, B.A. -</p> - -<div class="hangindent"> - -<p><span class="smcap">A Class-Book of Dictation Passages.</span> By -W. Williamson, B.A. <em>Thirteenth Edition. -Cr. 8vo. 1s. 6d.</em></p> - -<p><span class="smcap">The Gospel According to St. Matthew.</span> -Edited by E. Wilton South, M.A. With -Three Maps. <em>Cr. 8vo. 1s. 6d.</em></p> - -<p><span class="smcap">The Gospel According to St. Mark.</span> Edited -by A. E. Rubie, D.D. With Three Maps. -<em>Cr. 8vo. 1s. 6d.</em></p> - -<p><span class="smcap">A Junior English Grammar.</span> By W. Williamson, -B.A. With numerous passages for parsing -and analysis, and a chapter on Essay Writing. -<em>Fourth Edition. Cr. 8vo. 2s.</em></p> - -<p><span class="smcap">A Junior Chemistry.</span> By E. A. Tyler, B.A., -F.C.S. With 78 Illustrations. <em>Fourth Edition. -Cr. 8vo. 2s. 6d.</em></p> - -<p><span class="smcap">The Acts of the Apostles.</span> Edited by -A. E. Rubie, D.D. <em>Cr. 8vo. 2s.</em></p> - -<p><span class="smcap">A Junior French Grammar.</span> By L. A. -Sornet and M. J. Acatos. <em>Second Edition. -Cr. 8vo. 2s.</em></p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Elementary Experimental Science.</span> <span class="smcap">Physics</span> -by W. T. Clough, A.R.C.S. <span class="smcap">Chemistry</span> -by A. E. Dunstan, B.Sc. With 2 Plates and -154 Diagrams. <em>Fifth Edition. Cr. 8vo. -2s. 6d.</em></p> - -<p><span class="smcap">A Junior Geometry.</span> By Noel S. Lydon. -With 276 Diagrams. <em>Sixth Edition. Cr. -8vo. 2s.</em></p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Elementary Experimental Chemistry.</span> -By A. E. Dunstan, B.Sc. With 4 Plates and -109 Diagrams. <em>Second Edition revised. Cr. 8vo. 2s.</em></p> - -<p><span class="smcap">A Junior French Prose.</span> By R. R. N. -Baron, M.A. <em>Third Edition. Cr. 8vo. 2s.</em></p> - -<p><span class="smcap">The Gospel According to St. Luke.</span> With -an Introduction and Notes by William -Williamson, B.A. With Three Maps. <em>Cr. -8vo. 2s.</em></p> - -<p><span class="smcap">The First Book of Kings.</span> Edited by -A. E. Rubie, D.D. With Maps. <em>Cr. 8vo. -2s.</em></p></div> - - -<h4>Leaders of Religion</h4> - -<p class="center">Edited by H. C. BEECHING, M.A., Canon of Westminster. <em>With Portraits.</em></p> - -<p class="center"><em>Cr. 8vo. 2s. net.</em> -</p> - -<div class="hangindent"> - -<p><span class="smcap">Cardinal Newman.</span> By R. H. Hutton.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">John Wesley.</span> By J. H. Overton, M.A.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Bishop Wilberforce.</span> By G. W. Daniell, -M.A.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Cardinal Manning.</span> By A. W. Hutton, M.A.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Charles Simeon.</span> By H. C. G. Moule, D.D.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">John Keble.</span> By Walter Lock, D.D.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Thomas Chalmers.</span> By Mrs. Oliphant.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Lancelot Andrewes.</span> By R. L. Ottley, -D.D. <em>Second Edition.</em></p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Augustine of Canterbury.</span> By E. L. -Cutts, D.D.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">William Laud.</span> By W. H. Hutton, M.A. -<em>Third Edition.</em></p> - -<p><span class="smcap">John Knox.</span> By F. MacCunn. <em>Second Edition.</em></p> - -<p><span class="smcap">John Howe.</span> By R. F. Horton, D.D.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Bishop Ken.</span> By F. A. Clarke, M.A.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">George Fox, the Quaker.</span> By T. Hodgkin, -D.C.L. <em>Third Edition.</em></p> - -<p><span class="smcap">John Donne.</span> By Augustus Jessopp, D.D.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Thomas Cranmer.</span> By A. J. Mason, D.D.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Bishop Latimer.</span> By R. M. Carlyle and A. -J. Carlyle, M.A.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Bishop Butler.</span> By W. A. Spooner, M.A.</p></div> - - -<h4>Little Books on Art</h4> - -<p class="center"><em>With many Illustrations. Demy 16mo. 2s. 6d. net.</em> -</p> - -<p class="blockquot">A series of monographs in miniature, containing the complete outline of the -subject under treatment and rejecting minute details. These books are produced -with the greatest care. Each volume consists of about 200 pages, and contains from -30 to 40 illustrations, including a frontispiece in photogravure.</p> - -<div class="hangindent"> - -<p><span class="smcap">Greek Art.</span> H. B. Walters. <em>Third Edition.</em></p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Bookplates.</span> E. Almack.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Reynolds.</span> J. Sime. <em>Second Edition.</em></p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Romney.</span> George Paston.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Greuze and Boucher.</span> Eliza F. Pollard.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Vandyck.</span> M. G. Smallwood.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Turner.</span> Frances Tyrrell-Gill.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Dürer.</span> Jessie Allen.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Hoppner.</span> H. P. K. Skipton.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Holbein.</span> Mrs. G. Fortescue.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Watts.</span> R. E. D. Sketchley.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Leighton.</span> Alice Corkran.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Velasquez.</span> Wilfrid Wilberforce and A. R. -Gilbert.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Corot.</span> Alice Pollard and Ethel Birnstingl.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Raphael.</span> A. R. Dryhurst.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Millet.</span> Netta Peacock.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Illuminated MSS.</span> J. W. Bradley.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Christ in Art.</span> Mrs. Henry Jenner.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Jewellery.</span> Cyril Davenport.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_1027" id="Page_1027">[Pg 1027]</a></span></p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Burne-Jones.</span> Fortunée de Lisle. <em>Third -Edition.</em></p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Rembrandt.</span> Mrs. E. A. Sharp.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Claude.</span> Edward Dillon.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">The Arts of Japan.</span> Edward Dillon.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Enamels.</span> Mrs. Nelson Dawson.</p></div> - - -<h4>The Little Galleries</h4> - -<p class="center"><em>Demy 16mo. 2s. 6d. net.</em> -</p> - -<p class="blockquot">A series of little books containing examples of the best work of the great painters. -Each volume contains 20 plates in photogravure, together with a short outline of the -life and work of the master to whom the book is devoted.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"> -<ul><li><span class="smcap">A Little Gallery of Reynolds.</span></li> -<li><span class="smcap">A Little Gallery of Romney.</span></li> -<li><span class="smcap">A Little Gallery of Hoppner.</span></li> -<li><span class="smcap">A Little Gallery of Millais.</span></li> -<li><span class="smcap">A Little Gallery of English Poets.</span></li> -</ul> -</div> - - -<h4>The Little Guides</h4> - -<p class="center">With many Illustrations by <span class="smcap">E. H. New</span> and other artists, and from photographs.</p> - -<p class="center"><em>Small Pott 8vo, cloth, 2s. 6d. net; leather, 3s. 6d. net.</em> -</p> - -<p class="blockquot">Messrs. <span class="smcap">Methuen</span> are publishing a small series of books under the general title -of <span class="smcap">The Little Guides</span>. The main features of these books are (1) a handy and -charming form, (2) artistic Illustrations by <span class="smcap">E. H. New</span> and others, (3) good plans -and maps, (4) an adequate but compact presentation of everything that is interesting -in the natural features, history, archæology, and architecture of the town or -district treated.</p> - -<div class="hangindent"> - -<p><span class="smcap">Cambridge and its Colleges.</span> By A. -Hamilton Thompson. <em>Second Edition.</em></p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Oxford and its Colleges.</span> By J. Wells, -M.A. <em>Seventh Edition.</em></p> - -<p><span class="smcap">St. Paul's Cathedral.</span> By George Clinch.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Westminster Abbey.</span> By G. E. Troutbeck.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">The English Lakes.</span> By F. G. Brabant, M.A.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">The Malvern Country.</span> By B. C. A. -Windle, D.Sc., F.R.S.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Shakespeare's Country.</span> By B. C. A. -Windle, D.Sc., F.R.S. <em>Third Edition.</em></p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Buckinghamshire.</span> By E. S. Roscoe.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Cheshire.</span> By W. M. Gallichan.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Cornwall.</span> By A. L. Salmon.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Derbyshire.</span> By J. Charles Cox, LL.D., -F.S.A.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Devon.</span> By S. Baring-Gould.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Dorset.</span> By Frank R. Heath.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Hampshire.</span> By J. Charles Cox, LL.D., -F.S.A.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Hertfordshire.</span> By H. W. Tompkins, -F.R.H.S.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">The Isle of Wight.</span> By G. Clinch.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Kent.</span> By G. Clinch.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Kerry.</span> By C. P. Crane.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Middlesex.</span> By John B. Firth.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Northamptonshire.</span> By Wakeling Dry.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Norfolk.</span> By W. A. Dutt.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Oxfordshire.</span> By F. G. Brabant, M.A.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Suffolk.</span> By W. A. Dutt.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Surrey.</span> By F. A. H. Lambert.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Sussex.</span> By F. G. Brabant, M.A. <em>Second -Edition.</em></p> - -<p><span class="smcap">The East Riding of Yorkshire.</span> By J. E. -Morris.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">The North Riding of Yorkshire.</span> By J. E. -Morris.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Brittany.</span> By S. Baring-Gould.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Normandy.</span> By C. Scudamore.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Rome.</span> By C. G. Ellaby.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Sicily.</span> By F. Hamilton Jackson.</p></div> - - -<h4>The Little Library</h4> - -<p class="center">With Introductions, Notes, and Photogravure Frontispieces.</p> - -<p class="center"><em>Small Pott 8vo. Each Volume, cloth, 1s. 6d. net; leather, 2s. 6d. net.</em> -</p> - -<div class="hangindent"> - -<p><strong>Anon.</strong> ENGLISH LYRICS, A LITTLE BOOK OF.</p> - -<p><strong>Austen (Jane).</strong> PRIDE AND PREJUDICE. -Edited by <span class="smcap">E. V. Lucas</span>. <em>Two Vols.</em></p> - -<p>NORTHANGER ABBEY. Edited by <span class="smcap">E. V. -Lucas</span>.</p> - -<p><strong>Bacon (Francis).</strong> THE ESSAYS OF LORD -BACON. Edited by <span class="smcap">Edward Wright</span>.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_1028" id="Page_1028">[Pg 1028]</a></span></p> - -<p><strong>Barham (R. H.).</strong> THE INGOLDSBY -LEGENDS. Edited by <span class="smcap">J. B. Atlay</span>. -<em>Two Volumes.</em></p> - -<p><strong>Barnett (Mrs. P. A.).</strong> A LITTLE BOOK -OF ENGLISH PROSE. <em>Second Edition.</em></p> - -<p><strong>Beckford (William).</strong> THE HISTORY -OF THE CALIPH VATHEK. Edited -by <span class="smcap">E. Denison Ross</span>.</p> - -<p><strong>Blake (William).</strong> SELECTIONS FROM -WILLIAM BLAKE. Edited by <span class="smcap">M. -Perugini</span>.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Borrow (George)</span>. LAVENGRO. Edited -by <span class="smcap">F. Hindes Groome</span>. <em>Two Volumes.</em></p> - -<p>THE ROMANY RYE. Edited by <span class="smcap">John -Sampson</span>.</p> - -<p><strong>Browning (Robert).</strong> SELECTIONS -FROM THE EARLY POEMS OF -ROBERT BROWNING. Edited by <span class="smcap">W. -Hall Griffin</span>, M.A.</p> - -<p><strong>Canning (George).</strong> SELECTIONS FROM -THE ANTI-JACOBIN: with <span class="smcap">George -Canning's</span> additional Poems. Edited by -<span class="smcap">Lloyd Sanders</span>.</p> - -<p><strong>Cowley (Abraham).</strong> THE ESSAYS OF -ABRAHAM COWLEY. Edited by <span class="smcap">H. C. -Minchin</span>.</p> - -<p><strong>Crabbe (George).</strong> SELECTIONS FROM -GEORGE CRABBE. Edited by <span class="smcap">A. C. -Deane</span>.</p> - -<p><strong>Craik (Mrs.).</strong> JOHN HALIFAX, -GENTLEMAN. Edited by <span class="smcap">Anne -Matheson</span>. <em>Two Volumes.</em></p> - -<p><strong>Crashaw (Richard).</strong> THE ENGLISH -POEMS OF RICHARD CRASHAW. -Edited by <span class="smcap">Edward Hutton</span>.</p> - -<p><strong>Dante (Alighieri).</strong> THE INFERNO OF -DANTE. Translated by <span class="smcap">H. F. 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Cope).</strong> SONS OF ADVERSITY.</p> - -<p><strong>Cotterell (Constance).</strong> THE VIRGIN -AND THE SCALES.</p> - -<p><strong>Crane (Stephen).</strong> WOUNDS IN THE -RAIN.</p> - -<p><strong>Denny (C. E.).</strong> THE ROMANCE OF -UPFOLD MANOR.</p> - -<p><strong>Dickinson (Evelyn).</strong> THE SIN OF -ANGELS.</p> - -<p><strong>Dickson (Harris).</strong> THE BLACK WOLF'S -BREED.</p> - -<p><strong>Duncan (Sara J.).</strong> THE POOL IN THE -DESERT.</p> - -<p>A VOYAGE OF CONSOLATION. Illustrated.</p> - -<p><strong>Embree (C. F.).</strong> A HEART OF FLAME. -Illustrated.</p> - -<p><strong>Fenn (G. Manville).</strong> AN ELECTRIC -SPARK.</p> - -<p>A DOUBLE KNOT.</p></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_1038" id="Page_1038">[Pg 1038]</a></span></p> - -<div class="hangindent"> - -<p><strong>Findlater (Jane H.).</strong> A DAUGHTER OF -STRIFE.</p> - -<p><strong>Fitzstephen (G.).</strong> MORE KIN THAN -KIND.</p> - -<p><strong>Fletcher (J. S.).</strong> DAVID MARCH.</p> - -<p>LUCIAN THE DREAMER.</p> - -<p><strong>Forrest (R. E.).</strong> THE SWORD OF -AZRAEL.</p> - -<p><strong>Francis (M. E.).</strong> MISS ERIN.</p> - -<p><strong>Gallon (Tom).</strong> RICKERBY'S FOLLY.</p> - -<p><strong>Gerard (Dorothea).</strong> THINGS THAT -HAVE HAPPENED.</p> - -<p>THE CONQUEST OF LONDON.</p> - -<p>THE SUPREME CRIME.</p> - -<p><strong>Gilchrist (R. Murray).</strong> WILLOWBRAKE.</p> - -<p><strong>Glanville (Ernest).</strong> THE DESPATCH -RIDER.</p> - -<p>THE KLOOF BRIDE.</p> - -<p>THE INCA'S TREASURE.</p> - -<p><strong>Gordon (Julien).</strong> MRS. CLYDE.</p> - -<p>WORLD'S PEOPLE.</p> - -<p><strong>Goss (C. F.).</strong> THE REDEMPTION OF -DAVID CORSON.</p> - -<p><strong>Gray (E. M'Queen).</strong> MY STEWARDSHIP.</p> - -<p><strong>Hales (A. G.).</strong> JAIR THE APOSTATE.</p> - -<p><strong>Hamilton (Lord Ernest).</strong> MARY HAMILTON.</p> - -<p><strong>Harrison (Mrs. Burton).</strong> A PRINCESS -OF THE HILLS. Illustrated.</p> - -<p><strong>Hooper (I.).</strong> THE SINGER OF MARLY.</p> - -<p><strong>Hough (Emerson).</strong> THE MISSISSIPPI -BUBBLE.</p> - -<p><strong>'Iota' (Mrs. Caffyn).</strong> ANNE MAULEVERER.</p> - -<p><strong>Jepson (Edgar).</strong> THE KEEPERS OF -THE PEOPLE.</p> - -<p><strong>Keary (C. F.).</strong> THE JOURNALIST.</p> - -<p><strong>Kelly (Florence Finch).</strong> WITH HOOPS -OF STEEL.</p> - -<p><strong>Langbridge (V.) and Bourne (C. H.).</strong> -THE VALLEY OF INHERITANCE.</p> - -<p><strong>Linden (Annie).</strong> A WOMAN OF SENTIMENT.</p> - -<p><strong>Lorimer (Norma).</strong> JOSIAH'S WIFE.</p> - -<p><strong>Lush (Charles K.).</strong> THE AUTOCRATS.</p> - -<p><strong>Macdonell (Anne).</strong> THE STORY OF -TERESA.</p> - -<p><strong>Macgrath (Harold).</strong> THE PUPPET -CROWN.</p> - -<p><strong>Mackie (Pauline Bradford).</strong> THE VOICE -IN THE DESERT.</p> - -<p><strong>Marsh (Richard).</strong> THE SEEN AND -THE UNSEEN.</p> - -<p>GARNERED.</p> - -<p>A METAMORPHOSIS.</p> - -<p>MARVELS AND MYSTERIES.</p> - -<p>BOTH SIDES OF THE VEIL.</p> - -<p><strong>Mayall (J. W.).</strong> THE CYNIC AND THE -SYREN.</p> - -<p><strong>Meade (L. T.).</strong> RESURGAM.</p> - -<p><strong>Monkhouse (Allan).</strong> LOVE IN A LIFE.</p> - -<p><strong>Moore (Arthur).</strong> THE KNIGHT PUNCTILIOUS.</p> - -<p><strong>Nesbit, E. (Mrs. Bland).</strong> THE LITERARY -SENSE.</p> - -<p><strong>Norris (W. 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Illustrated.</p> - -<p>LITTLE TU'PENNY.</p> - -<p>THE FROBISHERS.</p> - -<p>WINEFRED.</p> - -<p><strong>Barr (Robert).</strong> JENNIE BAXTER, -JOURNALIST.</p> - -<p>IN THE MIDST OF ALARMS.</p> - -<p>THE COUNTESS TEKLA.</p> - -<p>THE MUTABLE MANY.</p> - -<p><strong>Benson (E. F.).</strong> DODO.</p> - -<p><strong>Brontë (Charlotte).</strong> SHIRLEY.</p> - -<p><strong>Brownell (C. L.).</strong> THE HEART OF -JAPAN.</p> - -<p><strong>Burton (J. Bloundelle).</strong> ACROSS THE -SALT SEAS.</p> - -<p><strong>Caffyn (Mrs.)</strong> ('Iota'). ANNE MAULEVERER.</p> - -<p><strong>Capes (Bernard).</strong> THE LAKE OF -WINE.</p> - -<p><strong>Clifford (Mrs. W. K.).</strong> A FLASH OF -SUMMER.</p> - -<p>MRS. KEITH'S CRIME.</p> - -<p><strong>Corbett (Julian).</strong> A BUSINESS IN -GREAT WATERS.</p> - -<p><strong>Croker (Mrs. B. M.).</strong> PEGGY OF THE -BARTONS.</p> - -<p>A STATE SECRET.</p></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_1040" id="Page_1040">[Pg 1040]</a></span></p> - -<div class="hangindent"> - -<p>ANGEL.</p> - -<p>JOHANNA.</p> - -<p><strong>Dante (Alighieri).</strong> THE VISION OF -DANTE (Cary).</p> - -<p><strong>Doyle (A. Conan).</strong> ROUND THE RED -LAMP.</p> - -<p><strong>Duncan (Sara Jeannette).</strong> A VOYAGE -OF CONSOLATION.</p> - -<p>THOSE DELIGHTFUL AMERICANS.</p> - -<p><strong>Eliot (George).</strong> THE MILL ON THE -FLOSS.</p> - -<p><strong>Findlater (Jane H.).</strong> THE GREEN -GRAVES OF BALGOWRIE.</p> - -<p><strong>Gallon (Tom).</strong> RICKERBY'S FOLLY.</p> - -<p><strong>Gaskell (Mrs.).</strong> CRANFORD.</p> - -<p>MARY BARTON.</p> - -<p>NORTH AND SOUTH.</p> - -<p><strong>Gerard (Dorothea).</strong> HOLY MATRIMONY.</p> - -<p>THE CONQUEST OF LONDON.</p> - -<p>MADE OF MONEY.</p> - -<p><strong>Gisslng (George).</strong> THE TOWN TRAVELLER.</p> - -<p>THE CROWN OF LIFE.</p> - -<p><strong>Glanville (Ernest).</strong> THE INCA'S -TREASURE.</p> - -<p>THE KLOOF BRIDE.</p> - -<p><strong>Gleig (Charles).</strong> BUNTER'S CRUISE.</p> - -<p><strong>Grimm (The Brothers).</strong> GRIMM'S -FAIRY TALES. Illustrated.</p> - -<p><strong>Hope (Anthony).</strong> A MAN OF MARK.</p> - -<p>A CHANGE OF AIR.</p> - -<p>THE CHRONICLES OF COUNT -ANTONIO.</p> - -<p>PHROSO.</p> - -<p>THE DOLLY DIALOGUES.</p> - -<p><strong>Hornung (E. W.).</strong> DEAD MEN TELL -NO TALES.</p> - -<p><strong>Ingraham (J. H.).</strong> THE THRONE OF -DAVID.</p> - -<p><strong>Le Queux (W.).</strong> THE HUNCHBACK OF -WESTMINSTER.</p> - -<p><strong>Levett-Yeats (S. K.).</strong> THE TRAITOR'S -WAY.</p> - -<p><strong>Linton (E. Lynn).</strong> THE TRUE HISTORY -OF JOSHUA DAVIDSON.</p> - -<p><strong>Lyall (Edna).</strong> DERRICK VAUGHAN.</p> - -<p><strong>Malet (Lucas).</strong> THE CARISSIMA.</p> - -<p>A COUNSEL OF PERFECTION.</p> - -<p><strong>Mann (Mrs. M. E.).</strong> MRS. PETER -HOWARD.</p> - -<p>A LOST ESTATE.</p> - -<p>THE CEDAR STAR.</p> - -<p>ONE ANOTHER'S BURDENS.</p> - -<p><strong>Marchmont (A. W.).</strong> MISER HOADLEY'S -SECRET.</p> - -<p>A MOMENT'S ERROR.</p> - -<p><strong>Marryat (Captain).</strong> PETER SIMPLE.</p> - -<p>JACOB FAITHFUL.</p> - -<p><strong>Marsh (Richard).</strong> THE TWICKENHAM -PEERAGE.</p> - -<p>THE GODDESS.</p> - -<p>THE JOSS.</p> - -<p>A METAMORPHOSIS.</p> - -<p><strong>Mason (A. E. W.).</strong> CLEMENTINA.</p> - -<p><strong>Mathers (Helen).</strong> HONEY.</p> - -<p>GRIFF OF GRIFFITHSCOURT.</p> - -<p>SAM'S SWEETHEART.</p> - -<p><strong>Meade (Mrs. L. T.).</strong> DRIFT.</p> - -<p><strong>Mitford (Bertram).</strong> THE SIGN OF THE -SPIDER.</p> - -<p><strong>Montresor (F. F.).</strong> THE ALIEN.</p> - -<p><strong>Morrison (Arthur).</strong> THE HOLE IN -THE WALL.</p> - -<p><strong>Nesbit (E.).</strong> THE RED HOUSE.</p> - -<p><strong>Norris (W. E.).</strong> HIS GRACE.</p> - -<p>GILES INGILBY.</p> - -<p>THE CREDIT OF THE COUNTY.</p> - -<p>LORD LEONARD.</p> - -<p>MATTHEW AUSTIN.</p> - -<p>CLARISSA FURIOSA.</p> - -<p><strong>Oliphant (Mrs.).</strong> THE LADY'S WALK.</p> - -<p>SIR ROBERT'S FORTUNE.</p> - -<p>THE PRODIGALS.</p> - -<p><strong>Oppenheim (E. Phillips).</strong> MASTER OF -MEN.</p> - -<p><strong>Parker (Gilbert).</strong> THE POMP OF THE -LAVILETTES.</p> - -<p>WHEN VALMOND CAME TO PONTIAC.</p> - -<p>THE TRAIL OF THE SWORD.</p> - -<p><strong>Pemberton (Max).</strong> THE FOOTSTEPS -OF A THRONE.</p> - -<p>I CROWN THEE KING.</p> - -<p><strong>Phillpotts (Eden).</strong> THE HUMAN BOY.</p> - -<p>CHILDREN OF THE MIST.</p> - -<p>'<strong>Q.</strong>' THE WHITE WOLF.</p> - -<p><strong>Ridge (W. Pett).</strong> A SON OF THE STATE.</p> - -<p>LOST PROPERTY.</p> - -<p>GEORGE AND THE GENERAL.</p> - -<p><strong>Russell (W. Clark).</strong> A MARRIAGE AT -SEA.</p> - -<p>ABANDONED.</p> - -<p>MY DANISH SWEETHEART.</p> - -<p>HIS ISLAND PRINCESS.</p> - -<p><strong>Sergeant (Adeline).</strong> THE MASTER OF -BEECHWOOD.</p> - -<p>BARBARA'S MONEY.</p> - -<p>THE YELLOW DIAMOND.</p> - -<p>THE LOVE THAT OVERCAME.</p> - -<p><strong>Surtees (R. S.).</strong> HANDLEY CROSS. -Illustrated.</p> - -<p>MR. SPONGE'S SPORTING TOUR. -Illustrated.</p> - -<p>ASK MAMMA. Illustrated.</p> - -<p><strong>Walford (Mrs. L. B.).</strong> MR. SMITH.</p> - -<p>COUSINS.</p> - -<p>THE BABY'S GRANDMOTHER.</p> - -<p><strong>Wallace (General Lew).</strong> BEN-HUR.</p> - -<p>THE FAIR GOD.</p> - -<p><strong>Watson (H. B. Marriot).</strong> THE ADVENTURERS.</p> - -<p><strong>Weekes (A. 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