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diff --git a/old/51134-0.txt b/old/51134-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 820016b..0000000 --- a/old/51134-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,14288 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook, A Book of Dartmoor, by S. (Sabine) -Baring-Gould - - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - - - - -Title: A Book of Dartmoor - Second Edition - - -Author: S. (Sabine) Baring-Gould - - - -Release Date: February 6, 2016 [eBook #51134] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - - -***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A BOOK OF DARTMOOR*** - - -E-text prepared by Richard Tonsing, David Edwards, and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team (http://www.pgdp.net) from page images -generously made available by Internet Archive (https://archive.org) - - - -Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this - file which includes the original illustrations. - See 51134-h.htm or 51134-h.zip: - (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/51134/51134-h/51134-h.htm) - or - (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/51134/51134-h.zip) - - - Images of the original pages are available through - Internet Archive. See - https://archive.org/details/bookofdartmoor00bari - - -Transcriber's note: - - Text enclosed by underscores is in italics (_italics_). - - Text enclosed by equal signs is in bold face (=bold=). - - - - - -A BOOK OF DARTMOOR - - - * * * * * * - -BY THE SAME AUTHOR - - THE LIFE OF NAPOLEON BONAPARTE - THE TRAGEDY OF THE CÆSARS - STRANGE SURVIVALS - SONGS OF THE WEST - A GARLAND OF COUNTRY SONG - OLD COUNTRY LIFE - YORKSHIRE ODDITIES - OLD ENGLISH FAIRY TALES - A BOOK OF GHOSTS - THE VICAR OF MORWENSTOW - A BOOK OF NURSERY SONGS AND RHYMES - A BOOK OF FAIRY TALES - -UNIFORM WITH THIS VOLUME - - A BOOK OF BRITTANY - A BOOK OF CORNWALL - A BOOK OF DEVON - A BOOK OF NORTH WALES - A BOOK OF SOUTH WALES - A BOOK OF THE RHINE - A BOOK OF THE RIVIERA - A BOOK OF THE PYRENEES - - * * * * * * - - -[Illustration: YES TOR] - - -A BOOK OF DARTMOOR - -by - -S. BARING-GOULD - -With Sixty Illustrations - -Second Edition - - - - - - - -Methuen & Co. -36 Essex Street W.C. -London - -First Published July 1900 -Second Edition January 1907 - - - - - TO THE MEMORY OF - MY UNCLE - - THE LATE - - THOMAS GEORGE BOND - - ONE OF THE PIONEERS OF - DARTMOOR EXPLORATION - - - - -PREFACE - - -At the request of my publishers I have written _A Book of Dartmoor_. -I had already dealt with this upland district in two chapters in my -_Book of the West_, vol. i., "Devon." But in their opinion this wild -and wondrous region deserved more particular treatment than I had -been able to accord to it in the limited space at my disposal in the -above-mentioned book. - -I have now entered with some fulness, but by no means exhaustively, -into the subject; and for those who desire a closer acquaintance with, -and a more precise guide to the several points of interest on "the -moor," I would indicate three works that have preceded this. - -1. Mr. J. Brooking Rowe in 1896 republished the _Perambulation of -Dartmoor_, first issued by his great-uncle, Mr. Samuel Rowe, in 1848. - -The original work was written by a man whose mind was steeped in the -crude archæological theories of his period. The new editor could not -dispense with this matter, which pervaded the work, without a complete -recasting of the book, and this he was reluctant to attempt. He limited -himself to cautioning the reader to put no trust in these exploded -theories. The result is that the reader is tripping over uncertain -ground, never knowing what is to be accepted and what rejected. - -2. Mr. J. H. W. Page's _Exploration of Dartmoor_, 1889, is admirable -as a guide. The author, however, was unhappily ignorant of prehistoric -archæology, and allowed himself to be led astray by the false -antiquarianism that had marked the early writers. Consequently, his -book is capital as a guide to what is to be seen, but eminently -unreliable in its explanation of the character and age of the -antiquities. - -3. A capital book is Mr. W. Crossing's _Amid Devonia's Alps_, 1888, -which is wholly free from pseudo-antiquarianism. It is brief, it is -small and cheap, and an admirable handbook for pedestrians. - -In no way do I desire to supersede these works. I have taken pains -rather to supplement them than to step into the places occupied by -their writers. - -The plan I have adopted in this gossiping volume is to give a general -idea of the moor and of its antiquities--the latter as interpreted -by up-to-date archæologists--and then to suggest rambles made from -certain stations on the fringe, or in the heart of the region. - -Here and there it has been inevitable that I should twice mention the -same object of interest, once in the introductory portion, and again -when I have to refer to it as coming within the radius of a proposed -ramble. - -As a boy I had an uncle, T. G. Bond, who lived near Moreton Hampstead, -and who was passionately devoted to Dartmoor. He inspired me with the -same love. In 1848 he presented me, as a birthday present, with Rowe's -_Perambulation of Dartmoor_. It arrested my attention, engaged my -imagination, and was to me almost as a Bible. When I obtained a holiday -from my books, I mounted my pony and made for the moor. I rode over it, -round it, put up at little inns, talked with the moormen, listened to -their tales and songs in the evenings, and during the day sketched and -planned the relics that I then fondly supposed were Druidical. - -The child is father to the man. Years have rolled away. I have wandered -over Europe, have rambled to Iceland, climbed the Alps, been for some -years lodged among the marshes of Essex--yet nothing that I have -seen has quenched in me the longing after the fresh air, and love of -the wild scenery of Dartmoor. There is far finer mountain scenery -elsewhere, but there can be no more bracing air, and the lone upland -region possesses a something of its own--a charm hard to describe, but -very real--which engages for once and for ever the affections of those -who have made its acquaintance. "After all said," observed my uncle to -me one day, when my father had dilated on the glories of the Pyrenees, -"Dartmoor is to itself, and to me--a passion." And to his memory I -dedicate this volume. - -My grateful thanks are due to Messrs. R. Burnard, P. F. S. Amery, J. -Shortridge, and C. E. Robinson for permission to employ photographs -taken by them. - - S. BARING-GOULD - - LEW TRENCHARD, DEVON - - - - -CONTENTS - - - CHAPTER PAGE - - I. BOGS 1 - - II. TORS 14 - - III. THE ANCIENT INHABITANTS 29 - - IV. THE ANTIQUITIES 52 - - V. THE FREAKS 74 - - VI. DEAD MEN'S DUST 82 - - VII. THE CAMPS 97 - - VIII. TIN-STREAMING 108 - - IX. LYDFORD 124 - - X. BELSTONE 144 - - XI. CHAGFORD 157 - - XII. MANATON 171 - - XIII. HOLNE 193 - - XIV. IVYBRIDGE 209 - - XV. YELVERTON 220 - - XVI. POST BRIDGE 241 - - XVII. PRINCETOWN 259 - - - - -ILLUSTRATIONS - - -FULL-PAGE - - YES TOR _Frontispiece_ - From a drawing by E. A. Tozer, Esq. - - A TOR, SHOWING GRANITE WEATHERING _To face page_ 14 - From a photograph by J. Shortridge, Esq. - - VIXEN TOR " 18 - From a photograph by J. Shortridge, Esq. - - ROCKS BY HEY TOR " 24 - From a photograph by J. Amery, Esq. - - THE PEDIGREE OF A TOMB " 56 - From a drawing by S. Baring-Gould. - - STONE ROWS, DRIZZLECOMBE " 60 - From a drawing by S. Baring-Gould. - - THE PEDIGREE OF A HEADSTONE " 64 - From a drawing by S. Baring-Gould. - - BOWERMAN'S NOSE " 74 - From a drawing by A. B. Collier, Esq. - - WHIT TOR CAMP " 97 - Planned by Rev. J. K. Anderson, drawn by S. Baring-Gould. - - BRENT TOR " 102 - From a drawing by E. A. Tozer, Esq. - - BLOWING-HOUSE UNDER BLACK TOR " 108 - From a drawing by A. B. Collier, Esq. - - ON THE LYD " 124 - From a drawing by E. A. Tozer, Esq. - - HARE TOR " 141 - From a drawing by E. A. Tozer, Esq. - - NORTH WYKE GATE HOUSE " 152 - From a drawing by Mrs. C. L. Weekes. - - GRIMSPOUND " 165 - From a photograph by C. E. Robinson, Esq. - - NEAR MANATON " 171 - From a drawing by A. B. Collier, Esq. - - HOUND TOR " 175 - From a drawing by E. A. Tozer, Esq. - - HEY TOR ROCKS " 176 - From a drawing by E. A. Tozer, Esq. - - LOWER TAR " 190 - From a photograph by J. Amery, Esq. - - THE CLEFT ROCK " 196 - From a photograph by J. Amery, Esq. - - YAR TOR " 199 - From a drawing by E. A. Tozer, Esq. - - THE DEWERSTONE " 220 - From a drawing by E. A. Tozer, Esq. - - SHEEPS TOR " 225 - From a drawing by A. B. Collier, Esq. - - PORTION OF SCREEN, SHEEPS TOR " 228 - Drawn by F. Bligh Bond, Esq. - - ON THE MEAVY " 231 - Drawn by A. B. Collier, Esq. - - LAKE-HEAD KISTVAEN " 244 - From a photograph by R. Burnard, Esq. - - STAPLE TOR " 269 - From a photograph by J. Shortridge, Esq. - - BLOWING-HOUSE ON THE MEAVY " 270 - Drawn by A. B. Collier, Esq. - - - IN THE TEXT - - PAGE - - FLINT ARROW-HEADS 37 - - FLINT SCRAPERS 45 - - A COOKING-POT 46 - - FLINT SCRAPERS 49 - - FRAGMENT OF COOKING-POT 50 - - CROSS, WHITCHURCH DOWN 65 - - PLAN OF HUT, SHAPLEY COMMON 67 - - HUT CIRCLE, GRIMSPOUND 69 - - LOGAN ROCK. THE RUGGLESTONE, WIDDECOMBE 77 - - ROOS TOR LOGANS 79 - - COVERED CHAMBER, WHIT TOR 100 - - CONSTRUCTION OF STONE AND TIMBER WALL 101 - - TIN-WORKINGS, NILLACOMBE 109 - - MORTAR-STONE, OKEFORD 111 - - SLAG-POUNDING HOLLOWS, GOBBETTS 113 - - SMELTING IN 1556 114 - - PLAN OF BLOWING-HOUSE, DEEP SWINCOMBE 115 - - TIN-MOULD, DEEP SWINCOMBE 117 - - SMELTING TIN IN JAPAN 119 - - A PRIMITIVE HINGE 133 - - INSCRIPTION ON SOURTON CROSS 142 - - INSCRIBED STONE, STICKLEPATH 150 - - PLAN OF STONE ROWS NEAR CAISTOR ROCK 161 - - " " GRIMSPOUND 166 - - " " HUT AT GRIMSPOUND 169 - - FRAGMENT OF POTTERY 177 - - ORNAMENTED POTTERY 179 - - TOM PEARCE'S GHOSTLY MARE 191 - - CRAZING-MILL STONE, UPPER GOBBETTS 204 - - METHOD OF USING THE MILL-STONES 205 - - CHANCEL CAPITAL, MEAVY 237 - - BLOWING-HOUSE BELOW BLACK TOR 271 - - DARTMOOR - - - - -CHAPTER I. - -BOGS - - The rivers that flow from Dartmoor--The bogs are their cradles--A - tailor lost on the moor--A man in Aune Mire--Some of the worst - bogs--Cranmere Pool--How the bogs are formed--Adventure in - Redmoor Bog--Bog plants--The buckbean--Sweet gale--Furze--Yellow - broom--Bee-keeping. - - -Dartmoor proper consists of that upland region of granite, rising to -nearly 2,000 feet above the sea, and actually shooting above that -height at a few points, which is the nursery of many of the rivers of -Devon. - -The Exe, indeed, has its source in Exmoor, and it disdains to receive -any affluents from Dartmoor; and the Torridge takes its rise hard by -the sea at Wellcombe, within a rifle-shot of the Bristol Channel, -nevertheless it makes a graceful sweep--tenders a salute--to Dartmoor, -and in return receives the liberal flow of the Okement. The Otter and -the Axe, being in the far east of the county, rise in the range of -hills that form the natural frontier between Devon and Somerset. - -But all the other considerable streams look back upon Dartmoor as their -mother. - -And what a mother! She sends them forth limpid and pure, full of -laughter and leap, of flash and brawl. She does not discharge them -laden with brown mud, as the Exe, nor turned like the waters of Egypt -to blood, as the Creedy. - -A prudent mother, she feeds them regularly, and with considerable -deliberation. Her vast bogs act as sponges, absorbing the winter rains, -and only leisurely and prudently does she administer the hoarded -supply, so that the rivers never run dry in the hottest and most -rainless summers. - -Of bogs there are two sorts, the great parental peat deposits that -cover the highland, where not too steep for them to lie, and the swamps -in the bottoms formed by the oozings from the hills that have been -arrested from instant discharge into the rivers by the growth of moss -and water-weeds, or are checked by belts of gravel and boulder. To see -the former, a visit should be made to Cranmere Pool, or to Cut Hill, -or Fox Tor Mire. To get into the latter a stroll of ten minutes up a -river-bank will suffice. - -The existence of the great parent bogs is due either to the fact that -beneath them lies the impervious granite, as a floor, somewhat concave, -or to the whole rolling upland being covered, as with a quilt, with -equally impervious china-clay, the fine deposit of feldspar washed from -the granite in the course of ages. - -In the depths of the moor the peat may be seen riven like floes of -ice, and the rifts are sometimes twelve to fourteen feet deep, cut -through black vegetable matter, the product of decay of plants through -countless generations. If the bottom be sufficiently denuded it is seen -to be white and smooth as a girl's shoulder--the kaolin that underlies -all. - -On the hillsides, and in the bottoms, quaking-bogs may be lighted -upon or tumbled into. To light upon them is easy enough, to get out -of one if tumbled into is a difficult matter. They are happily small, -and can be at once recognised by the vivid green pillow of moss that -overlies them. This pillow is sufficiently close in texture and buoyant -to support a man's weight, but it has a mischievous habit of thinning -around the edge, and if the water be stepped into where this fringe -is, it is quite possible for the inexperienced to go under, and be -enabled at his leisure to investigate the lower surface of the covering -_duvet_ of porous moss. Whether he will be able to give to the world -the benefit of his observations may be open to question. - -The thing to be done by anyone who gets into such a bog is to spread -his arms out--this will prevent his sinking--and if he cannot struggle -out, to wait, cooling his toes in bog water, till assistance comes. It -is a difficult matter to extricate horses when they flounder in, as -is not infrequently the case in hunting; every plunge sends the poor -beasts in deeper. - -One afternoon, in the year 1851, I was in the Walkham valley above -Merrivale Bridge digging into what at the time I fondly believed was a -tumulus, but which I subsequently discovered to be a mound thrown up -for the accommodation of rabbits, when a warren was contemplated on the -slope of Mis Tor. - -Towards evening I was startled to see a most extraordinary object -approach me--a man in a draggled, dingy, and disconsolate condition, -hardly able to crawl along. When he came up to me he burst into tears, -and it was some time before I could get his story from him. He was a -tailor of Plymouth, who had left his home to attend the funeral of a -cousin at Sampford Spiney or Walkhampton, I forget which. At that time -there was no railway between Tavistock and Launceston; communication -was by coach. - -When the tailor, on the coach, reached Roborough Down, "'Ere you -are!" said the driver. "You go along there, and you can't miss it!" -indicating a direction with his whip. - -So the tailor, in his glossy black suit, and with his box-hat set -jauntily on his head, descended from the coach, leaped into the -road, his umbrella, also black, under his arm, and with a composed -countenance started along the road that had been pointed out. - -Where and how he missed his way he could not explain, nor can I guess, -but instead of finding himself at the house of mourning, and partaking -there of cake and gin, and dropping a sympathetic tear, he got up on to -Dartmoor, and got--with considerable dexterity--away from all roads. - -He wandered on and on, becoming hungry, feeling the gloss go out of his -new black suit, and raws develop upon his top-hat as it got knocked -against rocks in some of his falls. - -Night set in, and, as Homer says, "all the paths were darkened"--but -where the tailor found himself there were no paths to become obscured. -He lay in a bog for some time, unable to extricate himself. He lost -his umbrella, and finally lost his hat. His imagination conjured up -frightful objects; if he did not lose his courage, it was because, as a -tailor, he had none to lose. - -He told me incredible tales of the large, glaring-eyed monsters that -had stared at him as he lay in the bog. They were probably sheep, but -as nine tailors fled when a snail put out its horns, no wonder that -this solitary member of the profession was scared at a sheep. - -The poor wretch had eaten nothing since the morning of the preceding -day. Happily I had half a Cornish pasty with me, and I gave it him. He -fell on it ravenously. - -Then I showed him the way to the little inn at Merrivale Bridge, and -advised him to hire a trap there and get back to Plymouth as quickly as -might be. - -"I solemnly swear to you, sir," said he, "nothing will ever induce me -to set foot on Dartmoor again. If I chance to see it from the Hoe, sir, -I'll avert my eyes. How can people think to come here for pleasure--for -pleasure, sir! But there, Chinamen eat birds'-nests. There are depraved -appetites among human beings, and only unwholesome-minded individuals -can love Dartmoor." - -There is a story told of one of the nastiest of mires on Dartmoor, that -of Aune Head. A mire, by the way, is a peculiarly watery bog, that lies -at the head of a river. It is its cradle, and a bog is distributed -indiscriminately anywhere. - -A mire cannot always be traversed in safety; much depends on the -season. After a dry summer it is possible to tread where it would be -death in winter or after a dropping summer. - -A man is said to have been making his way through Aune Mire when he -came on a top-hat reposing, brim downwards, on the sedge. He gave it a -kick, whereupon a voice called out from beneath, "What be you a-doin' -to my 'at?" The man replied, "Be there now a chap under'n?" "Ees, I -reckon," was the reply, "and a hoss under me likewise." - -There is a track through Aune Head Mire that can be taken with safety -by one who knows it. - -Fox Tor Mire once bore a very bad name. The only convict who really -got away from Princetown and was not recaptured was last seen taking a -bee-line for Fox Tor Mire. The grappling irons at the disposal of the -prison authorities were insufficient for the search of the whole marshy -tract. Since the mines were started at Whiteworks much has been done -to drain Fox Tor Mire, and to render it safe for grazing cattle on and -about it. - -There is a nasty little mire at the head of Redaven Lake, between -West Mill Tor and Yes Tor, and there is a choice collection of them, -inviting the unwary to their chill embraces, on Cater's Beam, about the -sources of the Plym and Blacklane Brook, the ugliest of all occupying -a pan and having no visible outlet. The Redlake mires are also disposed -to be nasty in a wet season, and should be avoided at all times. Anyone -having a fancy to study the mires and explore them for bog plants will -find an elegant selection around Wild Tor, to be reached by ascending -Taw Marsh and mounting Steeperton Tor, behind which he will find what -he desires. - - "On the high tableland," says Mr. William Collier, "above the - slopes, even higher than many tors, are the great bogs, the sources - of the rivers. The great northern bog is a vast tract of very - high land, nothing but bog and sedge, with ravines down which the - feeders of the rivers pour. Here may be found Cranmere Pool, which - is now no pool at all, but just a small piece of bare black bog. - Writers of Dartmoor guide-books have been pleased to make much of - this Cranmere Pool, greatly to the advantage of the living guides, - who take tourists there to stare at a small bit of black bog, and - leave their cards in a receptacle provided for them. The large bog - itself is of interest as the source of many rivers; but there is - absolutely no interest in Cranmere Pool, which is nothing but a - delusion and a snare for tourists. It was a small pool years ago, - where the rain water lodged; but at Okement Head hard by a fox was - run to ground, a terrier was put in, and by digging out the terrier - Cranmere Pool was tapped, and has never been a pool since. So much - for Cranmere Pool! - - "This great northern bog, divided into two sections by Fur Tor and - Fur Tor Cut, extends southwards to within a short distance of Great - Mis Tor, and is a vast receptacle of rain, which it safely holds - throughout the driest summer. Fur Tor Cut is a passage between the - north and south parts of this great bog, evidently cut artificially - for a pass for cattle and men on horseback from Tay Head, or Tavy - Head, to East Dart Head, forming a pass from west to east over - the very wildest part of Dartmoor. Anyone can walk over the bogs; - there is no danger or difficulty to a man on foot unless he gets - exhausted, as some have done. But horses, bullocks, and sheep - cannot cross them. A man on horseback must take care where he goes, - and this Fur Tor Cut is for his accommodation."[1] - -The Fur Tor Mire is not composed of black but of a horrible yellow -slime. There is no peat in it, and to cross it one must leap from one -tuft of coarse grass to another. The "mires" are formed in basins of -the granite, which were originally lakes or tarns, and into which -no streams fall bringing down detritus. They are slowly and surely -filling with vegetable matter, water-weeds that rot and sink, and -as this vegetable matter accumulates it contracts the area of the -water surface. In the rear of the long sedge grass or bogbean creeps -the heather, and a completely choked-up mire eventuates in a peat -bog. Granite has a tendency to form saucer-like depressions. In the -Bairischer Wald, the range dividing Bavaria from Bohemia, are a number -of picturesque tarns, that look as though they occupied the craters of -extinct volcanoes. This, however, is not the case; the rock is granite, -but in this case the lakes are so deep that they have not as yet been -filled with vegetable deposit. On the Cornish moors is Dosmare Pool. -This is a genuine instance of the lake in a granitic district. In -Redmoor, near Fox Tor, on the same moors, we have a similar saucer, -with a granitic lip, over which it discharges its superfluous water, -but it is already so much choked with vegetable growth as to have -become a mire. Ten thousand years hence it will be a great peat bog. - -I had an adventure in Redmoor, and came nearer looking into the world -beyond than has happened to me before or since. Although it occurred -on the Cornish moors, it might have chanced on Dartmoor, in one of its -mires, for the character of both is the same, and I was engaged in the -same autumn on both sets of moors. Having been dissatisfied with the -Ordnance maps of the Devon and Cornish moors, and desiring that certain -omissions should be corrected, I appealed to Sir Charles Wilson, of the -Survey, and he very readily sent me one of his staff, Mr. Thomas, to -go over the ground with me, and fill in the particulars that deserved -to be added. This was in 1891. The summer had been one of excessive -rain, and the bogs were swollen to bursting. Mr. Thomas and I had been -engaged, on November 5th, about Trewartha Marsh, and as the day closed -in we started for the inhabited land and our lodgings at "Five Janes." -But in the rapidly closing day we went out of our course, and when -nearly dark found ourselves completely astray, and worst of all in a -bog. We were forced to separate, and make our way as best we could, -leaping from one patch of rushes or moss to another. All at once I -went in over my waist, and felt myself being sucked down as though an -octopus had hold of me. I cried out, but Thomas could neither see me -nor assist me had he been able to approach. Providentially I had a long -bamboo, like an alpenstock, in my hand, and I laid this horizontally on -the surface and struggled to raise myself by it. After some time, and -with desperate effort, I got myself over the bamboo, and was finally -able to crawl away like a lizard on my face. My watch was stopped in -my waistcoat pocket, one of my gaiters torn off by the suction of the -bog, and I found that for a moment I had been submerged even over one -shoulder, as it was wet, and the moss clung to it. - -On another occasion I went with two of my children, on a day when -clouds were sweeping across the moor, over Langstone Moor. I was going -to the collection of hut circles opposite Greenaball, on the shoulder -of Mis Tor. Unhappily, we got into the bog at the head of Peter Tavy -Brook. This is by no means a dangerous morass, but after a rainy season -it is a nasty one to cross. - -Simultaneously down on us came the fog, dense as cotton wool. For -quite half an hour we were entangled in this absurdly insignificant -bog. In getting about in a mire, the only thing to be done is to leap -from one spot to another where there seems to be sufficient growth of -water-plants and moss to stay one up. In doing this one loses all idea -of direction, and we were, I have no doubt, forming figures of eight -in our endeavours to extricate ourselves. I knew that the morass was -inconsiderable in extent, and that by taking a straight line it would -be easy to get out of it, but in a fog it was not possible to take a -bee-line. Happily, for a moment the curtain of mist lifted, and I saw -on the horizon, standing up boldly, the stones of the great circle that -is planted on the crest. I at once shouted to the children to follow -me, and in two minutes we were on solid land. - -The Dartmoor bogs may be explored for rare plants and mosses. The -buckbean will be found and recognised by its three succulent sea-green -leaflets, and by its delicately beautiful white flower tinged with -pink, in June and July. I found it in 1861 in abundance in Iceland, -where it is called _Alptar colavr_, the swan's clapper. About Hamburg -it is known as the "flower of liberty," and grows only within the -domains of the old Hanseatic Republic. In Iceland it serves a double -purpose. Its thickly interwoven roots are cut and employed in square -pieces like turf or felt as a protection for the backs of horses that -are laden with packs. Moreover, in crossing a bog, the clever native -ponies always know that they can tread safely where they see the white -flower stand aloft. - -The golden asphodel is common, and remarkably lovely, with its shades -of yellow from the deep-tinted buds to the paler expanded flower. The -sundew is everywhere that water lodges; the sweet gale has foliage of -a pale yellowish green sprinkled over with dots, which are resinous -glands. The berries also are sprinkled with the same glands. The -plant has a powerful, but fresh and pleasant, odour, which insects -dislike. Country people were wont to use sprigs of it, like lavender, -to put with their linen, and to hang boughs above their beds. The -catkins yield a quantity of wax. The sweet gale was formerly much -more abundant, and was largely employed; it went by the name of the -Devonshire myrtle. When boiled, the wax rises to the surface of the -water. Tapers were made of it, and were so fragrant while burning, that -they were employed in sick-rooms. In Prussia, at one time, they were -constantly furnished for the royal household. - -The marsh helleborine, _Epipactis palustris_, may be gathered, and the -pyramidal orchis, and butterfly and frog orchises, occasionally. - -The furze--only out of bloom when Love is out of tune--keeps away from -the standing water. It is the furze which is the glory of the moor, -with its dazzling gold and its honey breath, fighting for existence -against the farmer who fires it every year, and envelops Dartmoor in -a cloud of smoke from March to June. Why should he do this instead of -employing the young shoots as fodder? - -I think that as Scotland has the thistle, Ireland the shamrock, and -Wales the leek as their emblems, we Western men of Devon and Cornwall -should adopt the furze. If we want a day, there is that of our apostle -S. Petrock, on June 4th. - -By the streams and rivers and on hedge-banks the yellow broom blazes, -yet it cannot rival in intensity of colour and in variety of tint the -magnificent furze or gorse. But the latter is not a pleasant plant to -walk amidst, owing to its prickles, and especial care must be observed -lest it affix one of these in the knee. The spike rapidly works inwards -and produces intense pain and lameness. The moment it is felt to be -there, the thing to be done is immediately to extract it with a knife. -From the blossoms of the furze the bees derive their aromatic honey, -which makes that of Dartmoor supreme. Yet beekeeping is a difficulty -there, owing to the gales, that sweep the busy insects away, so that -they fail to find their direction home. Only in sheltered combes can -they be kept. - -The much-relished Swiss honey is a manufactured product of glycerine -and pear-juice; but Dartmoor honey is the sublimated essence of -ambrosial sweetness in taste and savour, drawn from no other source -than the chalices of the golden furze, and compounded with no -adventitious matter. - -FOOTNOTES: - -[1] "Dartmoor," in the _Transactions of the Plymouth Institution_, -1897-8. - - - - -CHAPTER II. - -TORS - - Dartmoor from a distance--Elevation--The tors--Old - lake-beds--"Clitters"--The boldest tors--Luminous moss--The - whortleberry--Composition of granite--Wolfram--The "forest" and - its surrounding commons--Venville parishes--Encroachment of - culture on the moor--The four quarters--A drift--Attempts to - reclaim the moor--Flint finds--The inclosing of commons. - - -Seen from a distance, as for instance from Winkleigh churchyard, or -from Exbourne, Dartmoor presents a stately appearance, as a ridge of -blue mountains rising boldly against the sky out of rolling, richly -wooded under-land. - -But it is only from the north and north-west that it shows so well. -From south and east it has less dignity of aspect, as the middle -distance is made up of hills, as also because the heights of the -encircling tors are not so considerable, nor is their outline so bold. - -Indeed, the southern edge of Dartmoor is conspicuously tame. It has -no abrupt and rugged heights, no chasms cleft and yawning in the -range, such as those of the Okement and the Tavy and Taw. And to the -east much high ground is found rising in stages to the fringe of the -heather-clothed tors. - -[Illustration: A TOR, SHOWING WEATHERING OF GRANITE] - -Dartmoor, consisting mainly of a great upheaved mass of granite, and of -a margin of strata that have been tilted up round it, forms an elevated -region some thirty-two miles from north to south and twenty from east -to west. The heated granite has altered the slates in contact with it, -and is itself broken through on the west side by an upward gush of -molten matter which has formed Whit Tor and Brent Tor. - -The greatest elevations are reached on the outskirts, and there, also, -is the finest scenery. The interior consists of rolling upland. It has -been likened to a sea after a storm suddenly arrested and turned to -stone; but a still better resemblance, if not so romantic, is that of -a dust-sheet thrown over the dining-room chairs, the backs of which -resemble the tors divided from one another by easy sweeps of turf. - -Most of the heights are crowned with masses of rock standing up like -old castles; these, and these only, are tors.[2] Such are the worn-down -stumps of vast masses of mountain formation that have disappeared. -There are no lakes on or about the moor, but this was not always so. -Where is now Bovey Heathfield was once a noble sheet of water fifty -fathoms deep. Here have been found beds of lignite, forests that have -been overwhelmed by the wash from the moor, a canoe rudely hollowed -out of an oak, and a curious wooden idol was exhumed leaning against a -trunk of tree that had been swallowed up in a freshet. The canoe was -nine feet long. Bronze spear-heads have also been found in this ancient -lake, and moulds for casting bronze instruments. A representation of -the idol was given in the _Transactions of the Devonshire Association_ -for 1875. - -The new Plymouth Reservoir overlies an old lake-bed. Taw Marsh was also -once a sheet of rippling blue water, but the detritus brought down in -the weathering of what once were real mountains has filled them all -up. Dartmoor at present bears the same relation to Dartmoor in the far -past that the gums of an old hag bear to the pearly range she wore when -a fresh girl. The granite of Dartmoor was not well stirred before it -was turned out, consequently it is not homogeneous. Granite is made up -of many materials: hornblende, feldspar, quartz, mica, schorl, etc. -Sometimes we find white mica, sometimes black. Some granite is red, as -at Trowlesworthy, and the beautiful band that crosses the Tavy at the -Cleave; sometimes pink, as at Leather Tor; sometimes greenish, as above -Okery Bridge; sometimes pure white, as at Mill Tor. - -The granite is of very various consistency, and this has given it an -appearance on the tors as if it were a sedimentary rock laid in beds. -But this is its little joke to impose on the ignorant. The feature is -due to the unequal hardness of the rock which causes it to weather in -strata. - -The fine-grained granite that occurs in dykes is called elvan, which, -if easiest to work, is most liable to decay. In Cornwall the elvan -of Pentewan was used for the fine church of S. Austell, and as a -consequence the weather has gnawed it away, and the greater part has -had to be renewed. On the other hand, the splendid elvan of Haute -Vienne has supplied the cathedral of Limoges with a fine-grained -material that has been carved like lace, and lasts well. - -The drift that swept over the land would appear to have been from west -to east, with a trend to the south, as no granite has been transported, -except in the river-beds to the north or west, whereas blocks have -been conveyed eastward. This is in accordance with what is shown by -the long ridges of clay on the west of Dartmoor, formed of the rubbing -down of the slaty rocks that lie north and north-west. These bands all -run north and south on the sides of hills, and in draining processes -they have to be pierced from east to west. This indicates that at -some period during the Glacial Age there was a wash of water from the -north-west over Devon, depositing clay and transporting granite. - -On the sides of the tors are what are locally termed "clitters" or -"clatters" (Welsh _clechr_), consisting of a vast quantity of stone -strewn in streams from the tors, spreading out fanlike on the slopes. -These are the wreckage of the tor when far higher than it is now, -_i.e._ of the harder portions that have not been dissolved and swept -away. - - "The tors--Nature's towers--are huge masses of granite on the top - of the hills, which are not high enough to be called mountains, - piled one upon another in Nature's own fantastic way. There may be - a tor, or a group of tors, crowning an eminence, but the effect, - either near or afar, is to give the hilltop a grand and imposing - look. These large blocks of granite, poised on one another, - some appearing as if they must fall, others piled with curious - regularity--considering they are Nature's work--are the prominent - features in a Dartmoor landscape, and, wild as parts of Dartmoor - are, the tors add a notable picturesque effect to the scene. There - are very fine tors on the western side of the moor. Those on the - east and south are not so fine as those on the north and west. In - the centre of the moor there are also fine tors. They are, in fact, - very numerous, for nearly every little hill has its granite cap, - which is a tor, and every tor has its name. Some of the high hills - that are tor-less are called beacons, and were doubtless used as - signal beacons in times gone by. As the tors are not grouped or - built with any design by Nature to attract the eye of man, they are - the more attractive on that account, and one of their consequent - peculiarities is that from different points of view they never - appear the same. There can be no sameness in a landscape of tors - when every tor changes its features according to the point of view - from which you look at it. Every tor also has its heap of rock at - its feet, some of them very striking jumbles of blocks of granite - scattered in great confusion between the tor and the foot of the - hill. Fur Tor, which is in the very wildest spot on Dartmoor, and - is one of the leading tors, has a _clitter_ of rocks on its western - side as remarkable as the tor itself; Mis Tor, also on its western - side, has a very fine clitter of granite; Leather Tor stands on the - top of a mass of granite rocks on its east and south sides; and Hen - Tor, on the south quarter, is surrounded with blocks of granite, - with a hollow like the crater of a volcano, as if they had been - thrown up by a great convulsion of Nature. Hen Tor is remarkable - chiefly for this wonderful mass of granite blocks strewn around - it. All the moor has granite boulders scattered about, but they - accumulate at the feet of the tors as if for their support."[3] - -[Illustration: VIXEN TOR] - -Here among the clitters, where they form caves, a search may be made -for the beautiful moss _Schistostega osmundacea_. It has a metallic -lustre like green gold, and on entering a dark place under rocks, the -ground seems to be blazing with gold. In Germany the Fichtel Gebirge -are of granite, and the Luchsen Berg is so called because there in the -hollow under the rocks grew abundance of the moss glittering like the -eyes of a lynx. The authorities of Alexanderbad have had to rail in -the grottoes to prevent the _gold moss_ from being carried off by the -curious. Murray says of these retreats of the luminous moss:-- - - "The wonder of the place is the beautiful phosphorescence which is - seen in the crannies of the rocks, and which appears and disappears - according to the position of the spectator. This it is which has - given rise to the fairy tales of gold and gems with which the - gnomes and cobolds tantalise the poor peasants. The light resembles - that of glow-worms; or, if compared to a precious stone, it is - something between a chrysolite and a cat's-eye, but shining with a - more metallic lustre. On picking up some of it, and bringing it to - the light, nothing is found but dirt." - -Professor Lloyd found that the luminous appearance was due to the -presence of small crystals in the structure which reflect the light. -Coleridge says:-- - - "'Tis said in Summer's evening hour, - Flashes the golden-coloured flower, - A fair electric light." - -In 1843, when the luminosity of plants was recorded in the _Proceedings -of the British Association_, Mr. Babington mentioned having seen in the -south of England a peculiar bright appearance produced by the presence -of the _Schistostega pennata_, a little moss which inhabited caverns -and dark places: but this was objected to on the ground that the plant -reflected light, and did not give it off in phosphorescence.[4] - -When lighted on, it has the appearance of a handful of emeralds or aqua -marine thrown into a dark hole, and is frequently associated with the -bright green liverwort. Parfitt, in his _Moss Flora of Devon_, gives it -as _osmundacea_, not as _pennata_. It was first discovered in Britain -by a Mr. Newberry, on the road from Zeal to South Tawton; it is, -however, to be found in a good many places, as Hound Tor, Widdecombe, -Leather Tor, and in the Swincombe valley, also in a cave under Lynx -Tor. If found, please to leave alone. Gathered it is invisible; the -hand or knife brings away only mud. - -But what all are welcome to go after is that which is abundant on every -moorside--but nowhere finer than on such as have not been subjected -to periodical "swaling" or burning. I refer to the whortleberry. This -delicious fruit, eaten with Devonshire cream, is indeed a delicacy. A -gentleman from London was visiting me one day. As he was fond of good -things, I gave him whortleberry and cream. He ate it in dead silence, -then leaned back in his chair, looked at me with eyes full of feeling, -and said, "I am thankful that I have lived to this day." - -The whortleberry is a good deal used in the south of France for the -adulteration and colouring of claret, whole truck-loads being imported -from Germany. - -There is an interesting usage in my parish, and I presume the same -exists in others. On one day in summer, when the "whorts" are ripe, the -mothers unite to hire waggons of the farmers, or borrow them, and go -forth with their little ones to the moor. They spend the day gathering -the berries, and light their fires, form their camp, and have their -meals together, returning late in the evening, very sunburnt, with very -purple mouths, very tired maybe, but vastly happy, and with sufficient -fruit to sell to pay all expenses and leave something over. - -If the reader would know what minerals are found on Dartmoor he must go -elsewhere. - -I have a list before me that begins thus: "Allophane, actinolite, -achroite, andalusite, _apatite_"--but I can copy out no more. I -have often found _appetite_ on Dartmoor, but have not the slightest -suspicion as to what is apatite. The list winds up with wolfram, about -which I can say something. Wolfram is a mineral very generally found -along with tin, and that is just the "cussedness" of it, for it spoils -tin. - -When tin ore is melted at a good peat fire, out runs a silver streak -of metal. This is brittle as glass, because of the wolfram in it. To -get rid of the wolfram the whole has to be roasted, and the operation -is delicate, and must have bothered our forefathers considerably. By -means of this second process the wolfram, or tungsten as it is also -called, is got rid of. - -Now, it is a curious fact that the tin of Dartmoor is of extraordinary -purity; it has little or none of this abominable wolfram associated -with it, so that it is by no means improbable that the value of tin as -a metal was discovered on Dartmoor, or in some as yet unknown region -where it is equally unalloyed. - -In Cornwall all the tin is mixed with tungsten. Now this material has -been hitherto regarded as worthless; it has been sworn at by successive -generations of miners since mining first began. But all at once it -has leaped into importance, for it has been discovered to possess a -remarkable property of hardening iron, and is now largely employed -for armour-plated vessels. From being worth nothing it has risen to a -rapidly rising value, as we are becoming aware that we shall have to -present impenetrable sides to our Continental neighbours. - -Dartmoor comprises the "forest" and the surrounding commons, as -extensive together as the forest itself. "What have you got on you, -little girl?" asked a good woman of a shivering child. "Please, mem, -first there's a jacket, then a gownd, and then comes Oi." So with -Dartmoor. First come the venville parishes, next their extensive -commons, and "then comes Oi," the forest itself. - -The venville parishes are all moorland parishes--Belstone, Throwleigh, -Gidleigh, Chagford, North Bovey, Manaton, Widdecombe, Holne, -Buckfastleigh, Dean Prior, South Brent, Shaugh, Meavy, Sheeps Tor, -Walkhampton, Sampford Spiney, Whitchurch, Peter Tavy, Lydford, -Bridestowe, Sourton. There are others, standing like the angel of -the Apocalypse, with one foot on the moorland, the other steeped in -the green waves of foliage of the lowlands; such are South Tawton, -Cornwood, and Tavistock. Others, again, as Lustleigh, Bridford, -Moreton, Buckland-in-the-Moor, Ilsington, and Ugborough, must surely -have been moorland settlements at one time, and Okehampton itself is -as distinctly a moor town as is Moreton, which tells its own tale in -its name. But all these have their warm envelope of arable land, groves -and woods, farms and hamlets. Such have their commons, over which every -householder has a right to send cattle, to take turf and stone, and, -alas! with the connivance of the other householders, to inclose. This -inclosing has been going on at a great rate in some of the parishes. -For instance, common rights are exercised by the householders of South -Zeal over an immense tract of land on the north side of Cosdon. Of late -years they have put their heads together and decided, as they are few -in number, to appropriate it to themselves as private property, and -inclosures have proceeded at a rapid rate. - -In Bridestowe there is a tract of open land on which the poor cotters -have, from time immemorial, kept their cows. But they are tenants, and -not householders, and have consequently no rights. The seven or eight -owners have combined to inclose and sell or let for building purposes -all that tract of moor, and the cotters have lost their privilege of -keeping cows. What we see now going on under our eyes has been going -on from time immemorial. Parishes have encroached, and the genuine -forest has shrunk together before them. The commons still exist, and -are extensive, but they are being gradually and surely reduced. "Then -comes Oi!" Look at the map and see of what the forest really consists. -It surely must have been larger formerly. - -On the forest itself are a certain number of "ancient tenements," -thirty-five in all. These are of remote antiquity. On certainly most of -them, probably on all, the plough and the hoe turn up numerous flint -tools, weapons, and chips--sure proof that they were settlements in -prehistoric times. These tenements are at Brimpts, Hexworthy, Huccaby, -Bellever, Dunnabridge, Baberry, Pizwell, Runnage, Sherberton, Riddons, -Merripit, Hartland, Broom Park, Brown Berry, and Prince Hall. These -were held--and some still are--by copy of the Court Roll, and the -holders are bound to do suit and service at the Court. It is customary -for every holder on accession to the holding to inclose a tract of a -hundred acres, and this inclosure constitutes his newtake. - -The forest belongs to the Prince of Wales, but I believe has never been -visited by him. Were he to do so, he would be surprised, and perhaps -not a little indignant, to see how his tenants are housed. A forest -does not necessarily signify a wood. It is a place for wild beasts. The -origin of the word is not very clear. Lindwode says, "A Forest is a -place where are wild beasts; whereas a Park is a place where they are -shut in." Ockam says, "A Forest is a safe abode for wild beasts," and -derives the word from _feresta_, _i.e._ a place for wild creatures. It -was, in fact, a tract of uninclosed land reserved for the king to hunt -in, and a _chase_ was a similar tract reserved by the lord of the manor -for his own hunting. - -[Illustration: ROCKS NEAR HEY TOR] - -It is more than doubtful whether Dartmoor was ever covered with trees. -No doubt there have been trees in the bottoms, and indeed oak has been -taken from some of the bogs; but the charcoal found in the fire-pits -of the primitive inhabitants of the moor in the Bronze Age shows that, -even in the prehistoric period, the principal wood was alder, and that -such oak as there was did not grow to a large size, and was mainly -confined to the valleys that opened out of the moor into the lowlands. -Up these, doubtless, the forest crept. Elsewhere there may have been -clusters of stunted trees, of which the only relics are Piles and -Wistman's Wood. There were some very fine oaks at Brimpts, and also -in Okehampton Park, but these were cut down during the European war -with Napoleon. After the wood at Brimpts had fallen under the axe, it -was found that the cost of carriage would be so great that the timber -was sold for a mere trifle, only sufficient to pay for the labour of -cutting it down. - -The forest is divided into four quarters, in each of which, except -the western, is a pound for stray cattle. Formerly the Forest Reeve -privately communicated with the venville men when he had fixed a day -for a "drift," which was always some time about midsummer. Then early -in the morning all assembled mounted. A horn was blown through a holed -stone set up on a height, and the drift began. Cattle or horses were -driven to a certain point, at which stood an officer of the Duchy on -a stone, and read a proclamation, after which the owners were called -to claim their cattle or ponies. Venville tenants removed them without -paying any fine, but all others were pounded, and their owners could -not recover them without payment of a fine. - -The Duchy Pound is at Dunnabridge, where is a curious old seat within -the inclosure for the adjudicator of fines and costs. It is apparently -a cromlech that has been removed or adapted. The Duchy now lets the -quarters to the moormen, who charge a small fee for every sheep, -bullock, or horse turned out on the moor not belonging to a venville -man, and for this fee they accord it their protection. - -A good deal of money has been expended on the reclaiming of Dartmoor. -Sir Thomas Tyrwhitt, Usher of the Black Rod, was Warden of the -Stannary and Steward of the Forest for George IV. when Prince of -Wales. He fondly supposed that he had discovered an uncultivated land, -which needed only the plough and some lime to make its virgin soil -productive. He induced others to embark on the venture. Swincombe and -Stannon were started to become fine farm estates. Great entrance gates -were erected to where mansions were proposed to be built. But those -who had leased these lands found that the draining of the bogs drained -their pockets much faster than the mires, and abandoned the attempt -which had ruined them. Others followed. Prince's Hall was rebuilt with -fine farm buildings by a Mr. Fowler from the north of England, who -expended his fortune there and left a disappointed man. Before him -Sir Francis Buller, who had bought Prince's Hall, planted there forty -thousand trees--such as are not dead are distorted starvelings. Mr. -Bennett built Archerton, near Post Bridge, and inclosed thousands of -acres. He cannot have recovered a sum approaching his outlay in the -sixty years of his tenancy. The fact is that Dartmoor is cut out by -Nature to be a pasturage for horses, cattle, and sheep in the summer -months, and for that only. In the burning and dry summers of 1893, -1897, and 1899 tens of thousands of cattle were sent there, even from -so far off as Kent, where water and pasturage were scarce, and on the -moor they both are ever abundant. - -Tenements there must be, but they should be in the sheltered valleys, -and the wide hillsides and sweeps of moor should be left severely -alone. As it is, encroachments have gone on unchecked, rather have been -encouraged. Every parish in Devon has a right to send cattle to the -moor, excepting only Barnstaple and Totnes. But the Duchy, by allowing -and favouring inclosures, is able to turn common land into private -property, and that it is only too willing to do. - -Happily there now exists a Dartmoor Preservation Society, which is -ready to contest every attempt made in this direction. But it can do -very little to protect the commons around the forest--in fact it can -do nothing, if the freeholders in the parishes that enjoy common rights -agree together to appropriate the land to themselves--and for the poor -labourer who is able to buy himself a cow it can do nothing at all, for -his rights have no legal force. - -FOOTNOTES: - -[2] The Welsh _twr_ is a tower; _twrr_, a heap or pile. From the same -root as the Latin _turris_. - -[3] COLLIER, _op. cit._ - -[4] HARDWICKE'S _Science Gossip_, 1871, p. 123. - - - - -CHAPTER III. - -THE ANCIENT INHABITANTS - - Abundance of remains of primeval inhabitants--No trace of - Briton or Saxon on Dartmoor--None of Palæolithic man--The - Neolithic man who occupied it--Account of his migrations--His - presence in Ireland, in China, in Algeria--A pastoral - people--The pottery--The arrival of the Celt in Britain in - two waves--The Gael--The Briton--Introduction of iron--Mode - of life of the original occupants of the moor--The - huts--Pounds--Cooking--Tracklines--Enormous numbers who lived on - Dartmoor--A peaceable people. - - -Probably no other tract of land of the same extent in England contains -such numerous and well-preserved remains of prehistoric antiquity as -Dartmoor. - -The curious feature about them is that they all belong to one period, -that of the Early Bronze, when flint was used abundantly, but metal was -known, and bronze was costly and valued as gold is now. - -Not a trace has been found so far of the peoples who intervened between -these primitive occupants and the mediæval tin-miners. - -If iron was introduced a couple of centuries before the Christian era, -how is it that the British inhabitants who used iron and had it in -abundance have left no mark of their occupancy of Dartmoor? It can be -accounted for only on the supposition that they did not value it. The -woods had been thinned and they preferred the lowlands, whereas in -the earlier period the dense forests that clothed the country were too -close a jungle and too much infested by wolves to be suitable for the -habitation of a pastoral people. - -That under the Roman domination the tin was worked on the moor there -is no evidence to show. No Roman coins have been found there except a -couple brought by French prisoners to Princetown. - -It may be said that iron would corrode and disappear, whereas flint is -imperishable, and bronze nearly so. But where is Roman pottery? Where -is even the pottery of the Celtic period? An era is distinguished by -its fictile ware. A huge gap in historic continuity is apparent. All -the earthenware found on Dartmoor is either prehistoric or mediæval, -probably even so late as the reign of Elizabeth. - -No indication is found that the Saxons worked the tin or even drove -their cattle on to the moor. In Domesday Book Dartmoor is not even -mentioned. It is hard to escape the conclusion that from the close of -the prehistoric period to that of our Plantagenet kings, Dartmoor was -avoided as a waste, inhospitable region. - -Of man in the earliest period at which he is known to have existed--the -so-called Palæolithic man--not a trace has been found on Dartmoor. -Probably when he lived in Britain the whole upland was clothed in snow. -He has left his tools in the Brixham and Torquay caves--none in the -bogs of the moor. Indeed, when these bogs have been dug into, there -are not the smallest indications found of man having visited the moor -before the advent of what is called the Neolithic Age. - -About the man of this period I must say something, as he in his day -lived in countless swarms on this elevated land. He may have lived -also in the valleys of the lowlands, but his traces there have -been obliterated by the plough. First of all as to his personal -appearance. He was dark-haired, tall, and his head was long, like -that of a new-born child, or boat-shaped, a form that disappears with -civilisation, and resolves itself into the long face instead of the -long head. - -At some period, vastly remote, a great migration of a long-headed race -took place from Central Asia. It went forth in many streams. One to the -east entered Japan; probably the Chinese and Anamese represent another. -But we are mainly concerned with the western outpour. It traversed -Syria, and Gilead and Moab are strewn with its remains, hut circles, -dolmens, and menhirs identical with those on Dartmoor. Hence one branch -passed into Arabia, where, to his astonishment, Mr. Palgrave lighted on -replicas of Stonehenge.[5] - -Another branch threw itself over the Himalayas, and covered India -with identical monuments. Again another turned west; it traversed the -Caspian and left innumerable traces along the northern slopes of the -Caucasus. The Kuban valley is crowded with their dolmens. They occupied -the Crimea, and then struck for the Baltic. That a branch had passed -through Asia Minor and Greece, and constituted itself as the Etruscan -power in Italy, is probable but not established. The northern stream -strewed Mecklenburg and Hanover with its remains, occupied Denmark and -Lower Sweden, crossed into Britain, and took complete possession of -the British Isles. Other members of the same swarm skirted the Channel -and crowded the plateaux and moors of Western and Central France with -their megalithic remains. The same people occupied Spain and Portugal, -the Balearic Isles, Corsica and Sardinia, and Northern Africa, and -are now represented by the Koumirs and Kabyles. To this race the name -of Iberian, Ivernian, or Silurian has been given. It contributed its -name to Ireland (Erin or _Ierne_), where it maintained itself, but was -known to the conquering Gaels as the Tuatha da Danann and Firbolgs, -two branches of the same stock. The name of Damnonia given to Devon is -probably due to these same Danann, who were also found in the south -of Scotland. When this great people reached Europe, Japan, India, -Africa, before its branches had begun to ramify to east and west, to -south and north, its religious doctrines and its practices had become -stereotyped, and almost ineradicably ingrained into the consciousness -of the entire stock. - -If we desire to understand what their peculiar views were, what were -the dominant ideas which directed their conduct, and which led them to -erect the monuments which are marvels to us, even at the present day, -we must go to China. - -Let us look for a moment into China at the present day. At first sight, -the Chinese strike us as being not only geographically our antipodes, -but as being our opposites in every particular--mental, moral, social; -in language as in ideas. - -The Chinese language is without an alphabet and without a grammar. -It is made up of monosyllables that acquire their significance by -the position in which they are placed in a sentence. In customs the -Chinese differ from us as much. In mourning they wear white; a Chinese -dinner begins with the dessert and ends with the soup; a scholar, to -recite his lessons, turns his back on the teacher. But it is chiefly -in the way in which the living and the dead are regarded as forming -an indissoluble commonwealth, that the difference of ideas is most -pronounced. Regard for the dead is the first obligation to a Chinese. A -man of the people who is ennobled, ennobles, not his descendants, but -his ancestry. The duty of the eldest son of the family is to maintain -the worship of the ancestors. Denial of a sepulchre is the most awful -punishment that can be inflicted; a Chinese will cheerfully commit -suicide to gain a suitable tomb and cult after death. The most sacred -spot on earth is the mausoleum, and that is perpetually inviolable. -Consequently, if this principle could be carried out to the letter, -the earth would be transformed into one vast necropolis, from the -occupation of which the living would be in time entirely excluded. It -is this respect for graves which stands in the way of the execution -of works of public utility, such as canals and railroads; and it is -the imperious obligation of maintaining the worship of ancestors that -blocks conversion to Christianity. It is resentment against lack -of respect shown to the dead, neglect of duty to the dead, which -has provoked the massacres of Christians. A Chinese, under certain -circumstances, is justified in strangling his father, but not in -omitting to worship him after he has throttled him. - -On the great Thibet plateau, geographically contiguous to the Chinese, -and under the Empire of China, the Mongol nomads are so absolutely -devoid of a grain of respect for their dead, that, without the -smallest scruple, they leave the corpses of their parents and children -on the face of the desert, to be devoured by dogs and preyed on by -vultures. - -If we look at the Nile valley we see that the ancient Egyptians were -dominated by the same ideas as the Chinese. To them the tomb was the -habitation _par excellence_ of the family. Of the dwelling-houses -of the old Egyptians the remains are comparatively mean, but their -mausoleums are palatial. The house for the living was but as a tent, to -be removed; but the mansion of the dead was a dwelling-place for ever. - -Not only so, but just as the ancient Egyptian supposed that the _Ka_, -the soul, or one of the souls of the deceased, occupied the monument, -tablet, or obelisk set up in memorial of the dead, so does the Chinese -now hold that a soul, or emanation from the dead, enters into and -dwells in the memorial set up, apart from the tomb, to his honour. - -Now if we desire to discover what was the distinguishing motive in life -of the long-headed Neolithic man, we shall find it in his respect for -the dead; and he has stamped his mark everywhere where he has been by -the stupendous tombs he has erected, at vast labour, out of unwrought -stones. He cannot be better described than as the dolmen-builder; that -is to say, the man who erected the family or tribal ossuaries that -remain in such numbers wherever he has planted his foot. - -In China, it is true, there are no dolmens, but for this there is a -reason. Before the descendants of the Hundred Families who entered the -Celestial Empire had reached and obtained possession of mountains -whence stone could be quarried, many centuries elapsed, and forced the -Chinese to make shift with other material than stone, and so formed -their habit of entombment without stone; but the frame of mind which, -in a rocky land, would have prompted them to set up dolmens remained -unchanged, and so remains to the present day. - -The exploration of dolmens in Europe reveals that they were family or -tribal burial-places, and were used for a long continuance of time. -The dead to be laid in them were occasionally brought from a distance, -as the bones show indication of having been cleaned of the flesh -with flint scrapers, and to have been rearranged in an irregular and -unscientific manner, a left leg being sometimes applied to a right -thigh; or it may be that on the anniversary of an interment the bones -of the deceased were taken out, scraped and cleaned, and then replaced. - -In Algeria, and on the edge of the Sahara, are found great trilithons, -that is to say, two huge upright stones, with one laid across at the -top, forming doorways leading to nothing, but similar to those which -are found at Stonehenge. - -What was this significance? - -We turn to the Chinese for an explanation, and find that to this day -they erect triumphal gates--not now of stone, but of wood--in memory -of and in honour of such widows as commit suicide so as to join their -dear departed husbands in the world of spirits. On the other hand, our -widows forget us and remarry. - -[Illustration: FLINT ARROW-HEADS. - -(Actual size.)] - -The dolmen-builders were people with flocks and herds, and who -cultivated grain and spun yarn. Their characteristic implement is -the so-called celt, in reality an axe, sometimes perforated for the -reception of a handle, most commonly not. The perforation belongs to -the latest stage of Neolithic civilisation. Their weapons, or tools, -were first ground. In about a score of places in France polishing rocks -exist, marked with the furrows made by the axe when worked to and fro -upon them, and others that are smaller have been removed to museums. -At Stoney-Kirk, in Wigtownshire, a grinding-stone of red sandstone, -considerably hollowed by use, was found with a small, unfinished axe -of Silurian schist lying upon it. In the recent exploration of hut -circles at Legis Tor a grindstone was found in one of the habitations, -and on it an incomplete tool that was abandoned there before it was -finished. - -After grinding, these implements underwent laborious polishing by -friction with the hand or with leather. - -At the same time that these artificially smoothed tools were -fabricated, flint was used, beautifully chipped and flaked, to -form arrow and spear heads and swords. The arrow-heads are either -leaf-shaped or tanged. - -The pottery of the dolmen-builders is very rude. It is made of clay -mingled with coarse fragments of stone or shell, is very thick and -badly tempered; it is hand-made, and seems hardly capable of enduring -exposure to a brisk fire. The vessels have usually broad mouths, with -an overhanging rim like a turned-back glove-cuff, and below this the -vessel rapidly slopes away. The ornamentation is constant everywhere. -It consisted of zigzags, chevrons, depressions made by twisted cord, -and finger-nail marks in rings round the bowls or rims. It was not till -late in the Bronze Age that circles and spirals were adopted. - -Celtic ornamentation is altogether different. - -Whilst the long-headed dolmen-builder crept along the coast of Europe, -there was growing up among the mountains and lakes of Central Europe -a hardy round-headed race--the Aryan, destined to be his master. Was -it through instinct of what was to be, that the Ivernian shrank from -penetrating into the heart of the Continent, and clung to the seaboard? - -When the dolmen-builder arrived in Britain, to the best of our -knowledge, he found no one there. On the Continent, on the other hand, -if he went far inland, he not only clashed with the Aryan round-heads, -but also here and there stumbled on the lingering remains of the -primeval Palæolithic people, who have left their remains in England in -the river-drift, and in Devon in the Brixham caves and Kent's Hole. - -The dolmen-builder has persisted in asserting himself. Though cranial -modifications have taken place, the dusky skin, and the dark eyes and -hair and somewhat squat build, have remained in the Western Isles, in -Western Ireland, in Wales, and in Cornwall. It is still represented in -Brittany. It is predominant in South-Western France, and is typical in -Portugal. - -After a lapse of time, of what duration we know not, a great wave of -Aryans poured from the mountains of Central Europe, and, traversing -Britain, occupied Ireland. This was the Gael. This people subjugated -the Ivernian inhabitants, and rapidly mixed with them, imposing on -them their tongue, except in South Wales, where the Silurian was found -to have retained his individuality when conquered by Agricola in A.D. -78. But if the Gaelic invaders subjugated the Ivernians, they were in -turn conquered by them, though in a different manner. The strongly -marked religious ideas of the long-headed men, and their deeply rooted -habit of worship of ancestors, impressed and captured the imagination -of their masters, and as the races became fused, the mixed race -continued to build dolmens and erect other megalithic monuments once -characteristic of the long-heads, often on a larger scale than before. -Stonehenge and Avebury were erections of the Bronze Period, and late in -it, and of the composite people. - -If we look at the physique of the two races, we find a great difference -between them. The Ivernian was short in stature, with a face mild -in expression, oval, without high cheek-bones, and without strongly -characterised supraciliary ridges. The women were all conspicuously -smaller than the men, and of markedly inferior development. The -conquering race was other. The lower jaw was massive and square at -the chin, the molar bones prominent, and the brows heavy. The head -was remarkably short, and the face expressed vigour, was coarse, and -the aspect threatening. Moreover, the women were as fully developed -as the men, so much so that where all the bones are not present it -is not always easy to distinguish the sex of a skeleton of this -race. What Tacitus says of the German women--that they are almost -equal to the men both in strength and in size--applies also to these -round-headed invaders of Britain; and, indeed, what we are assured of -the Britons in the time of Boadicea, that it was _solitum feminarum -ductu bellare_, shows us that the same masculine character belonged -to the women of British origin. The average difference in civilised -races in the stature of men and women at present is about four inches, -but twice this difference is very usually found to exist between the -male and female skeletons of the Polished Stone Period in the long -barrows. The difference is even more strikingly shown by a comparison -of the male and female collar-bones; and we are able to reproduce from -them in picture the Neolithic woman of the Ivernian race, with narrow -chest and drooping shoulders, utterly unlike the muscular and vigorous -Gaelic women who were true consorts to their men when they came over to -conquer the island of Britain. - -After a lapse of time the long-head began to reassert itself, and the -infusion of its blood into the veins of the dominant race led to great -modification of its harshness of feature. When iron was introduced into -Britain, whether by peaceable means or whether by the second Aryan -invasion, that of the Cymri or Britons, we do not know, but when Cæsar -landed in Britain, B.C. 55, he found that iron was in general use. - -The second Aryan invasion alluded to was that of the true Britons. They -also came from the Alps, where they had lived on platforms constructed -on the lakes. They occupied the whole of Britain proper, but not -Scotland, and made but attempts to effect a landing in Ireland. - -They were entirely out of sympathy with the original race and its -ideas, and did not assimilate their religion and adopt their practices -as had the Gaels. - -The distinction between the two branches of the great Celtic family -is mainly linguistic. Where the British employed the letter _p_, the -Gael used the hard _c_, pronounced like _k_. For instance, _Pen_, a -head, in British, is _Cen_ in Gaelic; and we can roughly tell where -the population was British by noticing the place names, such as those -beginning with Pen. When these were Gaels, the same headlands would -begin with Cen. - - "By Tre, Pol, and Pen - You know the names of Cornishmen," - -and this at once decides that the inhabitants of the western peninsula -were not Gaels. - -From the lakes of Switzerland the Britons had brought with them their -great aptitude for wattle-work. They built their houses and halls, not -of stone, but of woven withies. Cæsar says that they were wont to erect -enormous basket-work figures, fill them with human victims, and burn -the whole as sacrifices to their gods. It is a curious coincidence that -on some of the old Celtic crosses are found carved imitations of men -made of wicker-work. These represent saints made of the same material -and in the same manner by the same people, after they had embraced -Christianity and abandoned human sacrifices.[6] - -Let us try to imagine what was the mode of life of those people who -raised their monuments on Dartmoor. They were pastoral, but they also -certainly had some knowledge of tillage. In certain lights, hillsides -on the moor show indications of having been cultivated in ridges, and -this not with the plough, but with the spade. We cannot say that -these belong to the early population, but as they are found near -their settlements it is possible that they may be traces of original -cultivation. But we know from the remains of grain found in the -habitations and tombs of the same people in limestone districts that -they were acquainted with cereals, and their grindstones have been -found on Dartmoor in their huts. - -Still, grain was not the main element of their diet; they lived chiefly -on milk and flesh. In the huts have been found broad vessels that were -covered with round discs of slate, and it is probable that these were -receptacles for milk or butter, but the milk would mainly be contained -in wooden or leathern vessels. Elsewhere their spindle-whorls have been -found in fair abundance; not so on Dartmoor--as yet only two have been -recovered. This shows that little spinning was done, and no weights -such as are used by weavers have been found. The early occupants were -in the main clothed in skins. - -Their huts were circular, of stone, with very frequently a shelter -wall, opposed to the prevailing south-west wind, screening the door, -which opened invariably to the south or south-west. The whole was -roofed over by poles planted on the walls, brought together in the -middle, and thatched over with rushes or heather. The walls were -rarely above four feet six inches high. They are lined within with -large stones, set up on end, their smooth surfaces inwards, and the -stone walls were backed up with turf without, making of the huts green -mounds. This gave occasion to the fairy legends of the Celts, who -represented the earlier population as living in mounds, which the Irish -called _sidi_, and the people occupying them the Tuatha da Danann. -As already said, this same name meets us in Damnonii, the oldest -appellation for the people of Devon. They were a sociable people, -clustering together for mutual protection in _pounds_. - -These pounds are large circular inclosures, the walls probably only -about four feet high, but above this was a breastwork of turf or -palisading. Outside the pound were huts, perhaps of guards keeping -watch. - -Many of the huts have paddocks connected with them, as though these -latter had been kail gardens, but some of these paddocks are large -enough to have been tilled for corn. Their plough, if they used one, -was no more than a crooked beam, drawn by oxen. It is possible that the -numerous sharp flakes of flint that are found were employed fastened -into a sort of harrow, as teeth. Their cooking was done either in pots -sunk in the soil, or in holes lined with stones. - -Rounded pebbles, water-worn, were amassed, and baked hot in the fire, -then rolled to the "cooking-hole," in which was the meat, and layers of -hot stones and meat alternated, till the hollow receptacle was full, -and the whole was then covered with sods till the flesh was cooked. - -The following account of the manner in which the Fiana, the Irish -militia, did their cooking in pre-Christian times will illustrate this -custom:-- - - "When they had success in hunting, it was their custom in the - forenoon to send their huntsman, with what they had killed, to a - proper place, where there was plenty of wood and water; there they - kindled great fires, into which, their way was, to throw a number - of stones, where they continued till they were red hot; then they - applied themselves to dig two great pits in the earth, into one of - which, upon the bottom, they were wont to lay some of these hot - stones as a pavement, upon them they would place the raw flesh, - bound up hard in green sedge or bulrushes; over these bundles was - fixed another layer of hot stones, then a quantity of flesh, and - this method was observed till the pit was full. In this manner - their flesh was sodden or stewed till it was fit to eat, and then - they uncovered it; and, when the hole was emptied, they began their - meal."[7] - -[Illustration: FLINT SCRAPERS. (Actual size.)] - -Some of the huts are very large, and in these no traces of fires and -no cooking-holes have been found. Adjoining them, however, are smaller -huts that are so full of charcoal and peat ash and fragments of pottery -that no doubt can be entertained that these were the kitchens, and the -large huts were summer habitations. - -[Illustration: COOKING-POT.] - -Occasionally a small hut has been found with a large hole in the centre -crammed with ashes and round stones, the hole out of all proportion to -the size of the hut if considered as a habitation. No reasonable doubt -can be entertained that these were bath huts. The Lapps still employ -the sweating-houses. They pour water over hot stones, and the steam -makes them perspire profusely, whereupon they shampoo themselves or rub -each other down with birch twigs. - -Indeed, men wearing skin dresses are obliged to go through some such a -process to keep their pores in healthy action. - -It is very probable that the long tracklines that extend over hill -and vale on Dartmoor indicate tribal boundaries, limits beyond which -the cattle of one clan might not feed. Some of these lines, certainly -of the age of the Neolithic men of the hut circles, may be traced -for miles. There is one that starts apparently from the Plym at -Trowlesworthy Warren, where are clusters of huts and inclosures. It -follows the contour of the hills to Pen Beacon, where it curves around -a collection of huts and strikes for the source of the Yealm by two -pounds containing huts. That it went further is probable, but recent -inclosures have led to its destruction. We cannot be sure of the age -of these tracklines unless associated with habitations, as some very -similar have been erected in recent times as reeves delimiting mining -rights. - -That the occupants of the moor at this remote period loved to play -at games is shown by the numbers of little round pebbles, carefully -selected, some for their bright colours, that have been found on the -floors of their huts. That they used divination by the crystal is shown -by clear quartz prisms having been discovered tolerably frequently. -These are still employed among the Australian natives for seeing -spirits and reading the future. - -That these early people were monogamists is probable from the small -size of their huts; they really could not have accommodated more than -one wife and her little family. - -That they were a gentle, peaceable people is also apparent from the -rarity of weapons of war. Plenty of flint scrapers are found for -cleaning the hides, plenty of rubber-stones for smoothing seams, plenty -of small knives for cutting up meat, but hardly a spear-head, and -arrow-heads are comparatively scarce. Their most formidable camp is at -Whit Tor, the soil of which is littered with flint chips. It did not, -on exploration, yield a single arrow-head. The pounds were inclosed -to protect the sheep and young cattle against wolves, not to save the -scalps of their owners from the tomahawks of their fellow-men. - -With regard to the numbers of people who lived on Dartmoor in -prehistoric times, it is simply amazing to reflect upon. Tens of -thousands of their habitations have been destroyed; their largest and -most populous settlements, where are now the "ancient tenements," have -been obliterated, yet tens of thousands remain. At Post Bridge, within -a radius of half a mile, are fifteen pounds. If we give an average of -twenty huts to a pound, and allow for habitations scattered about, not -inclosed in a pound, and give six persons to a hut, we have at once a -population, within a mile, of 2,000 persons. - -[Illustration: FLINT SCRAPERS. - -(Actual size.)] - -Take Whit Tor Camp. To man the wall it would require 500 men. Allow to -each man five noncombatants; that gives a population of 2,500. There -are pounds and clusters of hut circles in and about Whit Tor that still -exist, and would have contained that population. Take the Erme valley, -high up where difficult of access; the number of huts there crowded on -the hill slopes is incredible. On the height is a cairn, surrounded -by a ring of stones, from which leads a line of upright blocks for a -distance of 10,840 feet. Allow two feet apart for the stones, that -gives 5,420 stones. If, as is probable, each stone was set up by a -male member of a tribe, in honour of his chief who was interred in the -cairn, we are given by this calculation a population of over 21,000, -allowing three children and a female to each male. - -[Illustration: FRAGMENT OF COOKING-POT.] - -But numerous though these occupants of the moor must have been, they -must have been wretchedly poor. The vast majority of their graves yield -nothing but a handful of burnt ash, not a potsherd, not a flint-chip, -and the grave of a chief only a little blade of bronze as small as a -modern silver pocket fruit-knife. - -That they were a peaceable people I have no manner of doubt, for there -are absolutely no fortified hilltops on the moor, which there assuredly -would be were the denizens of that upland region in strife one with -another. What camps there are may be found on the fringe, Whit Tor, -Dewerstone, Hembury, Holne, Cranbrook, Halstock, as against invaders. -That they were a happy people I cannot doubt. They were uncivilised: -and the Tree of Knowledge, under high culture, bears bitter fruit for -the many and drips with tears, but it bears nuts--only for the few. - -FOOTNOTES: - -[5] "Hardly had we descended the narrow path, when we saw before -us several huge stones, like enormous boulders, placed endways -perpendicularly, on the soil, while some of them yet upheld similar -masses, laid transversely over their summit. They were arranged in -a curve once forming part, it would appear, of a large circle, and -many other like fragments lay rolled on the ground at a moderate -distance; the number of those still upright was, to speak by memory, -eight or nine. Two, at about ten or twelve feet apart one from the -other, and resembling huge gateposts, yet bore their horizontal -lintel, a long block laid across them; a few were deprived of their -upper traverse, the rest supported each its headpiece in defiance -of time and the more destructive efforts of man. So nicely balanced -did one of these cross-bars appear, that in hope it might prove a -rocking-stone, I guided my camel right under it, and then, stretching -up my riding-stick at arm's length, could just manage to touch and -push it; but it did not stir. Meanwhile the respective heights of -camel, rider, and stick, taken together, would place the stone in -question full fifteen feet from the ground. These blocks seem, by their -quality, to have been hewed from the neighbouring limestone cliffs -and roughly shaped, but present no further trace of art, no groove or -cavity of sacrificial import, much less anything intended for figure -or ornament. The people of the country attribute their erection to the -Dārim, and by his own hands too, seeing that he was a giant. Pointing -towards Rass, our companions affirmed that a second and similar stone -circle, also of gigantic dimensions, existed there; and, lastly, they -mentioned a third towards the south-west, that is, in the direction of -Henakeeyah."--PALGRAVE, _Narrative of a Year's Journey through Central -Arabia_, 1865, vol. i p. 251. - -[6] _Archæologia_, vol. 1. Pl. 2 (1887). - -[7] KEETING _History of Ireland_ (ed. O'Connor, Dublin, 1841), i. P. -293. - - - - -CHAPTER IV. - -THE ANTIQUITIES - - Innumerable relics on Dartmoor--Small in size--Great - destruction of them that has taken place--Lake-head Hill thus - devastated--Classification of the remains--1. The dolmen, an - ossuary--2. The kistvaen--Great numbers, all rifled--3. The stone - circle--possibly a crematorium--4. The stone row--Astonishing - numbers still existing--5. The menhir--In Christian times becomes - a cross--Story of S. Cainnech--Dartmoor crosses--Altar tombs--6. - Hut circles--All belong to one period--7. The tracklines--8. The - pounds--9. The cairns--10. The camps--11. Rude stone bridges, - comparatively modern. - - -As already intimated, the antiquities found on Dartmoor belong almost -exclusively to the Prehistoric Period. The few exceptions are the -crosses and the blowing-houses. These shall be spoken of in other -chapters. In this we will confine ourselves to a general review of -the relics left to show how that the moor was occupied by a large -population in the early Bronze Period. - -Now, although these relics are very numerous, they are none of them -megalithic, that is to say, very huge. And this for two reasons. In -the first place it is uncertain whether the people occupying the moor -ever did erect any huge stones, like the Stonehenge monsters, or the -enormous dolmens of Brittany, and above all of the sandstone districts -of the Loire. - -In the second place, in the fifteenth and first half of the sixteenth -centuries the great bulk of the churches round Dartmoor were rebuilt, -and in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries the manor houses, -bartons, and farms were also reconstructed, and then for the first time -since the sixth century was granite employed in ecclesiastical and -domestic architecture. The builders delighted in selecting huge stones. -They employed monoliths for their pillars; each door and window had -a single stone on each side as a jamb, and a single stone as a base; -two stones above were used for the arch of every door and window. The -amount of granite of a large size carried away from the moor is really -prodigious, and no large monument was likely to have been spared. - -Then came the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, when granite was -in demand for gateposts, and every standing stone serviceable was -ruthlessly carried away. Almost every circle of upright stones has lost -some of its finest blocks in this way, and all that is left to show -where they were is the hole cut in the "calm" from which they were -extracted, and the _spalls_ or chips made by the quarrymen as they -knocked the block into shape. At Sherberton was a fine circle: the -three largest stones have been employed a few yards off as gateposts, -and two others have been cast down. - -Next came the newtake-wall builders. The ravage they have wrought -is incalculable. In 1848 S. Rowe published his _Perambulation of -Dartmoor_, and gave an illustration of double stone rows that ran -from the Longstone, near Caistor Rock, for half a mile to the Teign. -In 1851 I planned them. A few years ago a farmer built a newtake wall, -and used the rows as his quarry; nothing now is left of them but a few -insignificant stones he did not consider worth his while to remove. The -stones are in the wall, and can be recognised, and the socket-holes can -all be traced, with a spade. - -There was a row or set of rows of stones on a common near Leusden. In -1898 the road-menders destroyed it and employed the stones for the -repair of the Ashburton highway. - -Now it is quite possible that the old rude stone monument builders -did not erect really mighty structures on Dartmoor, but it is still -more likely that all such as were of any size have been carried -away. Lake-head Hill, near Post Bridge, must at one time have been a -veritable necropolis. The farmer at Bellever was given his holding on a -rent that was to be mainly paid by inclosing new-takes, and repairing -old walls. For six years he was employed in clearing Lake-head Hill of -all the stones he could find. Thousands of loads were removed, and it -is only by a lucky chance that one or two kistvaens have escaped. Three -pounds with their huts, probably scores of kistvaens, and certainly -several stone rows, have been obliterated by this man. In 1851 I drew -the finest moor kistvaen at Merrivale Bridge. The covering stone -measured 9 feet 3 inches by 4 feet 9 inches. In 1891 a man at Merrivale -Bridge wanting a gatepost, cut one out of the capstone and left only -two scraps _in situ_. - -Considering the ruthless manner in which these monuments of a hoar -antiquity have been carried away or destroyed, it is a marvel that any -remain; but then, this devastation explains why those allowed to remain -are such only as were considered too insignificant to offer inducement -to the plunderer. The late Mr. Bennett, of Archerton, when inclosing -and planting, utilised a fine pound for a clump of beech. The old -inclosing ring was used up to make a wall for the protection of the -young trees, and these latter, in growing, threw all the huts that had -not been despoiled out of shape and into inextricable confusion. - -Let us now take in their order such monuments as remain, and I will say -a few words about each kind. - -1. Of the characteristic _dolmen_, which we in England perhaps -improperly call _cromlech_, we have but a single good example, that -at Drewsteignton. The dolmen was the family mausoleum. It is composed -of several large slabs set upright in box-form, and covered with one -or more large stones, flat on the under side. These were probably all -originally covered with earth, but in course of time the earth has been -washed or trodden away. In some cases the dolmen becomes the _allée -couverte_, a long chamber or hall constructed of uprights and coverers. -The most magnificent example is that at Saumur, on the Loire, which is -over 62 feet long and 13 feet wide, and high enough for a tall man to -walk about in it with ease. - -In these the dead were interred, not burnt, and their bones seem to -have been taken out on anniversaries, scraped, and then replaced; and -remoter ancestors were huddled into the background to make room for -newcomers. - -In time the fashion for carnal interment gave way to one for cremation. - -Now of the large dolmen or cromlech we have only the fine Drewsteignton -example, and that deserves a visit. Formerly it was but one of a number -of monuments, lines and circles of upright stones. All these have been -destroyed in this century. - -But although this is the sole remaining example, we know by place names -that anciently there were many more. These monuments have everywhere -a local designation. In France they are _pierres levées_ or _cabannes -des fées_. In Devon they were shelf-stones, and wherever we meet -with a farm called Shilston, there we may confidently assert that a -dolmen formerly existed. With a little search the portions of it may -occasionally be recognised in pigsties, or worked into the structure of -the house. - -The parish of Bradstone derives its name from the broad coverer of -a cromlech, which is now employed as a stile. The supporters have -disappeared, used probably for the church. There is a shilstone in -Bridestowe, and another in Modbury. In dolmens it is usual to have a -hole in the end stone, and even sometimes closed with a stone plug, -or else a small stone is employed that could easily be removed, so -as to enable those who desired it to enter and put therein food for -the consumption of the dead, or to remove the remains for the annual -scraping, or again for the introduction of a fresh tenant. - -[Illustration: THE PEDIGREE OF A TOMB] - -2. When carnal interment gave way to incineration, at once the need for -large mausoleums ceased, and mourners saved themselves the labour of -erecting huge cromlechs, and contented themselves instead with the more -modest _kistvaen_, or stone chest. This is constructed in precisely the -same manner as the dolmen, but is much smaller. A beautiful diminutive -example, from Peter Tavy Common, has been transported to the Plymouth -Municipal Museum. It measures 21 inches long, 13 inches wide, and 14 -inches deep. On Dartmoor there are many hundreds of these kistvaens, of -various sizes, but most have been rifled by treasure-seekers; indeed, -all but such as were covered with earth and so escaped observation have -been plundered. - -The kistvaens were always buried under cairns, and almost invariably a -circle of stones surrounded the cairn, marking its bounds. - -The finest kistvaens are--one at Merrivale Bridge, one adjoining a -pound near Post Bridge, one on Lake-head Hill, one near Drizzlecombe, -one on Hound Tor, and two on the slope of Bellever. One is near the -Powder Mills. There are several, also, about the Plym. - -3. The _stone circle_ is called by the French a cromlech. The name -means curved stone. The circle, of which Stonehenge is the noblest -known example in Europe, consists of a number of stones set up at -intervals in a ring. The purport is purely conjectural. Undoubtedly -interments have been made within them; but none, so far, have been -found in those on Dartmoor. In the great circle on Penmaen-mawr there -were burials at the foot of several of the monoliths, and, indeed, one -of these served as the back-stone of a kistvaen. - -Among semi-barbarous tribes it is customary that the tribe should have -its place of assembly and consultation, and this is marked round by -either stones or posts set up in the ground. Among some of the great -clan circles, if one of the constituent tribes fails to send its -representative, the stone set up where he would sit is thrown down. - -The areas within the circles on Dartmoor, so far as they have been -examined, show that great fires have been lighted in them; the floors -are thickly bedded in charcoal. It may be that they were the crematoria -of the tribe, and certainly numerous cairns and kistvaens are to be -found around them; or it may be that great fires were lighted in them -when the tribe met for its parliament, or its games and war-dances. -It has been noticed that usually these circles of upright stones are -placed on the neck of land between two rivers. - -Some have speculated that they were intended for astronomical -observation, and for determining the solstices; but such fancies may be -dismissed till we have evidence of their being erected and employed for -such a purpose by some existing savage race. - -The Samoyeds were wont to make circles of stones of rude blocks set -up, and these are still to be seen in the districts they inhabit; and -although these people are nominally Christians, yet they are secretly -addicted to their old paganism. Mr. Jackson, in his _Great Frozen Land_ -(London, 1895), says:-- - - "The rings of stones which I frequently met with in Waigatz are the - sites of their midnight services, and are made, of course, by the - Samoyeds. They are called yon-pa-ha-pai. It is possible that within - these circles the human sacrifices with which Samoyeds used to - propitiate Chaddi were offered up; and, although these are things - of the past now, it is only a few years ago that a Samoyed, living - in Novaia Zemlia, sacrificed a young girl" (p. 89). - -A tradition or fancy relative to more than one of these circles is that -the stones represent maidens who insisted on dancing on a Sunday, and -were, for their profanity, turned into stone when the church bells rang -for divine service. It is further said that on May Day or Midsummer Day -they dance in a ring. - -There are several of these circles on the moor. The finest are those -of Scaur Hill, near Chagford, of the Grey Wethers--two side by side, -but most of the stones of one are fallen--the circle on Langstone -Moor above Peter Tavy, Trowlesworthy, Sherberton, and Fernworthy. The -diameters vary from thirty-six feet to three hundred and sixty. One -that must have been very fine was near Huccaby, but most of the stones -constituting it have been removed for the construction of a wall hard -by. - -The number of stones employed varies according to the area inclosed. - -4. The _stone row_ is almost invariably associated with cairns and -kistvaens, and clearly had some relation to funeral rites. The stone -settings are often single, sometimes double, or are as many as eight. -They do not always run parallel; they start from a cairn, and end with -a blocking-stone set across the line. In Scotland they are confined to -Caithness. The finest known are at Carnac, in Brittany. It is probable -that just as a Bedouin now erects a stone near a fakir's tomb as a -token of respect, so each of these rude blocks was set up by a member -of a tribe, or by a household, in honour of the chief buried in the -cairn at the head of the row. - -It is remarkable how greatly the set stones vary in size. Some are -quite insignificant, and could be planted by a boy, while others -require the united efforts of three, four, or even many men, with -modern appliances of three legs and block, to lift and place them -in position. This seems to show that the rows are not the result of -concerted design, but of individual execution as the ability of the -man or family permitted to set up a stone large or small. Usually the -largest stones are planted near the cairn, and they dwindle to the -blocking-stone, which is of respectable size. - -[Illustration: STONE-ROWS, DRIZZLECOMBE] - -There is no district known so rich in stone rows as Dartmoor. As many -as fifty have been observed. The finest are those of Drizzlecombe, -where there are three double rows, not parallel; Down Tor, a single -line; Merrivale Bridge, two parallel double rows, but the stones -constituting them small; Stall Moor, a single line that looks like -a procession of cricketers in flannels stalking over the moor; -Challacombe; at Glazebrook are thirteen rows; also Staldon Moor. -Some of these rows which are small are nevertheless instructive. On -the north slope of Cosdon is a cairn that originally contained three -kistvaens, one of which is perfect, one exists in part, and evidence of -the existence of the third was found on exploration. From this cairn -start three rows of stones, one for each kistvaen. A remarkably perfect -set of stone rows is on Watern Hill, behind the Warren Inn, on the road -from Post Bridge to Moreton. It is actually visible from the road, but -as the stones are small it does not attract attention. It starts from a -cairn and a tall upright stone set at right angles to the rows, which -are brought to a termination by blocking-stones. Another perfect row -is at Assacombe, starting from a cairn with two or three big upright -stones, and running down a rather steep hill to a blocking-stone which -remains intact. - -The longest of all the rows is that on Staldon, which springs from a -circle of 59 feet 9 inches in diameter, inclosing the remains of a -cairn, runs with a single line for two miles and a quarter, and crosses -the Erme river. Had a straight line been followed, an obstruction in -the precipitous bank of the river would have been encountered, to -avoid which the builders of this great monument took a sweep eastward, -where the bank was more sloping. In the Cosdon lines of stones already -referred to, the rows waver so as to avoid a platform of rock in which -the constructors were unable to plant their stones. - -At Drizzlecombe there is a cairn with which is connected a row 260 -feet long, with an upright stone 17 feet 9 inches high at the end of -the row. - -All sorts of random guesses have been made about these rows. Some have -made them out to be sacred _cursi_, where races were run, but then some -lines are single, some are eightfold. Others have supposed that these -were the supporting stones to cattle sheds, but these stones are often -not more than 2 feet 6 inches high, and the rows often run for over 600 -feet. - -We must, as already said, look to present usage for their -interpretation, and that afforded by the practice of the Khassias of -the Brahmapootra, and by the Bedouin, seems the simplest--stones set up -as memorials or tributes of respect to the dead man who is buried at -the head of the row. - -There would seem to have been no feeling attached to the direction in -which these lines run. - -One singular feature is that in several cases a second row starts off -from a small cairn in or close to the main row, and runs away in quite -a different direction.[8] - -5. The _menhir_, or tall stone, is a rude, unwrought obelisk. In some -cases it is nothing other than the starting or the blocking stone of a -row which has been destroyed. This is the case with that at Merrivale -Bridge. But such is not always the case. There were no rows in -connection with the menhirs on Devil Tor and the Whitmoor Stone. - -That the upright block is a memorial to the dead can hardly be -doubted; it was continued to be erected, with an inscription on it, -in Romano-British times, and its modern representative is in every -churchyard. - -The menhirs, locally termed longstones, or langstones, must at one -time have been numerous. There was a langstone near Sourton, another -by Tavistock, one at Sheeps Tor, others by Modbury; these stones have -disappeared and have left but their names to tell where they once -stood. One on Peter Tavy Common gave its title to the moor which the -Ordnance surveyors have rendered Launceston Moor. The stone is at one -end of a row, and served as a waymark over the down. It had fallen, but -is re-erected. - -But there are still a good many remaining. The tallest is one already -referred to at Drizzlecombe. Bairdown Man (_maen_ = a stone) is by -Devil Tor in a singularly desolate spot. We have none comparable to the -Devil's Arrows at Boroughbridge in Yorkshire--but the best have been -carried away to serve as monolithic church pillars. - -The Chinese hold that the spirits of the dead inhabit the memorials -set up in their honour; and the carved monoliths in Abyssinia, erected -by the race when it passed from Arabia to Africa, have carved in their -faces little doors, for the ingress and egress of the spirits. Holed -menhirs are found in many places. I know one in France, La Pierre -Fiche, near Pouancé (Maine-et-Loire), where such a little door or -window, intended for the popping out and in of the spirit, has been -utilised to hold an image of the Virgin, and has been barred to -prevent the statue making off or being made off with. - -In Irish post-Christian records there is frequent allusion to the early -saints carrying about their _lechs_ (flat stones) with them, to be -set up over them when dead, and this explains the fantastic stories -afterwards told of saints as of having crossed from Ireland to Wales, -or Cornwall, or Brittany floating on stones. In the original record -it was related that the saint came over with his _lech_, and a later -redactor of the story converted this into coming _on_ it, as a raft. -The _lech_ was cut into a cross when the Celts became Christians, or -crosses were inscribed on them. Some of the most fantastic of the -saints, when travelling over the country, would not sit down to dinner -till they had visited and prayed at all the crosses set up over tombs -anywhere near. - -A pretty story is told of S. Cainnech. Bishop Aed's sister had been -carried off by Colman MacDermot, King of the Hy Niall, and he refused -to surrender her. Aed went to Cainnech with his grievance, and Cainnech -at once resolved on intervention. Colman had retired to an island in -the Ross Lake, or Marsh, and shrewdly suspecting that the saint would -administer a lecture, he removed the boats to the island fort or -crannoge. However, Cainnech was not to be deterred, and managed to wade -or swim across. Subdued by his pertinacity, the king surrendered the -girl. - -[Illustration: MENHIR, CROSS AND HEADSTONE] - -Many years after, one winter day, Cainnech was traversing a moor, -when he noticed a rude stone cross, on the head and arms of which the -snow lay in a crust. He halted to inquire whose cross that was, and -learned that it had been erected on the spot where King Colman had -been assassinated some years previously. Cainnech at once went to the -_lech_, leaned his brow against it, and as he recalled the interviews -he had had with the king, and thought on his good as well as his bad -qualities, his outbursts of violence, and his accesses of compunction, -the old man's tears began to flow, and his disciples noticed the snow -melting and dripping from the arms of the cross, thawed by the tears of -the venerable abbot. - -[Illustration: CROSS, WHITCHURCH DOWN.] - -Now see how many rugged crosses there are on Dartmoor! Some certainly -are waymarks, others as surely indicate graves. Would that we knew the -tales connected with them! - -Then go into any churchyard and observe the tombstones. We are children -of the men who set up menhirs, and we do the same thing to this day, -though the stones we erect are mean and small compared with the great -standing monoliths they set up to their dead. - -In many of the churches around the moor are monuments that derive from -the cromlech and kistvaens as certainly as does the modern tombstone -from the menhir. The graveyard of Sourton was rich in these great slabs -standing on four supporters. A late rector who "restored" Sourton -church, and supposed he did God service by so doing, threw all these -down and employed the slabs as pavement to the church paths; he placed -the supporters outside in the village for anyone to carry off as he -listed. - -The finest menhirs on Dartmoor are--one at Drizzlecombe, the Langstone -near Caistor Rock, the Whitmoor Stone, the Bairdown Man, the Langstone -at Merrivale, and that on Langstone Moor, Peter Tavy. There must have -been numbers more, for their former presence is testified to by many -place names. They have been carried off, and it is matter of wonder -that any remain. - -6. _Hut circles._ The cairn and kistvaen were the places of burial of -the dead, but the hut circles were the habitations of the living. So -many of them have been dug out during the last six years, that we may -safely draw conclusions as to the period to which they belong. They -were occupied by the Neolithic population that at one time thickly -covered Dartmoor. - -[Illustration] - -In the _Archæologia_ of 1875 is an account of the exploration -of a set of hut circles near Bintley, Northumberland, and this -revealed successive occupation by Celts (?) of the Bronze Age; then -Romano-British, who left fragments of Samian ware and a bronze -horse-buckle; lastly by Saxons, who left behind an iron sword. - -Not a trace of continuous occupation has been found in any circle -explored on Dartmoor. All belong to the early Bronze Period, when flint -was the principal material of which tools and weapons were fabricated. - -Some account of these huts has been already given. They usually have a -raised platform on the side that is towards the hill, and the circle -bulges at this point to give additional space on this platform. It -was probably used as a bed by night, and was sat upon by day. In one -hut at Grimspound the platform was divided into two compartments. In -some instances, small upright stones planted in the floor show that -the platform was made of logs and brushwood, held in place by these -projections. The stone platforms on the other hand were paved. - -The doorways into the huts are composed of single upright stones as -jambs, with a threshold and a lintel, this latter always fallen, and -often found wedged between the uprights. The floor within is paved -near the door, but there only; the rest consists of hard beaten soil. -Occasionally a shelter wall protects the entrance from the prevailing -wind. The huts must have been entered on all-fours; the doorways are -never higher than three feet six inches, usually less. The huts have -hearthstones much burnt or broken, but occasionally hollows lined with -stones full of ashes. Cooking-holes are sunk in the floor near the -hearths, and piles of cooking stones are found at hand much cracked -by fire. Sometimes a flat stone is found bedded in the soil near the -centre to support a pole that sustained the roof. In some instances a -hole has been discovered sunk in the floor near the middle, with the -charred rem ains of the bottom end of the post in it. - -[Illustration: HUT CIRCLE, GRIMSPOUND.] - -In the cooking-holes have been found cooking-pots made by hand of -the coarsest clay, usually round at the bottom; where not round, -with transverse ridges of thick clay forming a cross to strengthen -the bottom. These pots were too fragile to stand the action of fire -on a hearth, and served by having meat and red-hot stones placed in -them. Consequently they do not show signs of exposure to strong fire -externally, and are black with animal matter within, which may be -extracted by means of a blowpipe. - -One found at Legis Tor had been cracked and was mended with china-clay. -It had a cooking-stone in it. There would seem to have been in use as -well shallower vessels that were covered with round slate discs. None -of these have been recovered whole. Possibly they were employed to hold -curd or butter. - -Occasionally round stones, flat on one side and convex on the other, -have been disinterred in the huts. They served to protect the apex -of the roof, where the poles were drawn together, from the action of -the rain, which would rot them, as well as to prevent the rain from -entering at this point. An example of a stone of the same character -employed for this very purpose may be seen in actual use on a thatched -circular pounding-house on Berry Down, near Throwleigh. - -Not a single quern has been found in a hut, and this indicates that -the occupants neither grew nor ground corn extensively.[9] They lived -mainly on milk and meat. Numerous rubber-stones have been unearthed -that served for smoothing the seams of skin clothing sewn together; -and plenty of flint scrapers that turn up show that the skins employed -for garments were previously carefully scraped and cleaned. Esquimaux -women chew the leather to get it flexible, and then rub it with similar -smoothers of stone. - -7. _Tracklines_ in abundance are everywhere found, made of stones, but -without close investigation it is not possible to determine to what -period they belong. - -8. Paved roads exist; the main road across the moor has been traced -from Wray Barton in Moreton Hampstead, by Berry Pound to Merripit, by -Post Bridge, and thence on to Mis Tor. From somewhere near the Powder -Mills a branch struck off in the direction of Princetown, aiming -probably for Tamerton, but it has been obliterated by the prison -inclosures. A raised paved road leaves the camp above Okehampton -Station and takes a direction due south, but cannot be traced far. That -these ways were not Roman is tolerably certain. The ancient Britons -drove chariots with wheels, and where wheeled conveyances were in use, -there roads are postulated. - -9. The _cairns_ that are abundant, and were of considerable size, have -nearly all been ransacked by treasure-seekers. Only such as were too -small to attract attention have escaped. They are mounds of earth and -stone over a pit sunk in the original soil, or over a kistvaen. Usually -they contain a handful of ashes only; they rarely yield more. One, -however, on Hamildon surrendered a bronze knife with amber handle and -rivets of gold. Others have given up small knives of bronze, and urns -of the characteristic shape and ornamentation of the Bronze Age. In -one, on Fernworthy Common, was found a thin blade of copper, along with -a flint knife, a large button of horn, and a well-ornamented urn. - -A cairn surrounded by a circle of stones, and containing a kistvaen, -near Princetown, is called "The Crock of Gold," a name that may be due -to a vessel of the precious metal having been found in it. - -One thing is obvious, the enormous labour of exploring the larger -cairns would not have been undertaken unless previous ransackings had -yielded valuable results. Some of the cairns must have been huge, and -have taken many men several days in clearing out their interiors. About -these cairns I shall say a good deal in a chapter apart. - -10. Of _camps_ there are two kinds, those constructed of stone and -those of earth. I reserve what I have to say about these to a separate -chapter. - -11. The old stone _bridges_, composed of rude slabs cast across an -opening to a pier, also rudely constructed, have been attributed to -"the Druids," of course. There is nothing to indicate for these a -great antiquity. They belong to the period of pack-horses, and were -doubtless often repaired. Those at Dartmeet, and Post Bridge, and Two -Bridges--this last has disappeared--were in the line of the pack-horse -track, and _not_ in that of the paved way across the moor. - -The rude bridge at Okery in like manner is in the pack-horse line of -way, which is indicated between Princetown and Merrivale Bridge by rude -posts of granite set up at intervals. - -FOOTNOTES: - -[8] Merrivale Bridge, Har Tor, and Longstone, near Caistor Rock. - -[9] Querns have been found, but none in prehistoric habitations. - - - - -CHAPTER V. - -THE FREAKS - - Lucubrations of antiquaries in past times--How their imagination - led them astray--Rock idols--Logan stones--Who originated - the idea that they were oracular--Rock basins--Tolmens--The - difference between the modern system of archæological research - and that which it has supplanted. - - -It would be amusing were it not melancholy to read the lucubrations of -antiquaries of the early part of the nineteenth century on the relics -of the past found in such abundance on the moor. Their imagination -played a large part in their researches, and references to curious -customs in the Bible or in classic writings were drawn in to explain -these relics. The antiquaries lacked the faculty of observing -accurately, and instead of labouring to accumulate facts, and recording -them with precision, employed them as pegs on which to hang their -theories, and they whittled at what they did observe, so as to fit what -they saw to elucidate these theories. - -In rambling over the moor they discovered rock idols, logan stones, -rock basins, and tolmens, and entered into long dissertations on their -employment for worship, oracles, lustrations, and ordeals. - -[Illustration: BOWERMAN'S NOSE] - -There are, indeed, to be seen curious piles of rock, but none of -these are artificial, and there is not a particle of evidence that -any of them received idolatrous worship. Bowerman's Nose is the most -remarkable, perhaps. Carrington, the poet of Dartmoor, thus describes -it:-- - - "On the very edge - Of the vast moorland, startling every eye, - A shape enormous rises! High it towers - Above the hill's bold brow, and seen from far, - Assumes the human form; a granite god,-- - To whom, in days long flown, the suppliant knee - In trembling homage bow'd." - -It stands up, a core of hard granite, forty feet high, in five layers -above a "clitter," the softer masses that have fallen off from it. Had -it ever been venerated as an idol, the worshippers would assuredly -have done something towards clearing this clitter away, so as to give -themselves a means of easy access to their idol, and some turf on which -to kneel in adoration. - -Another remarkable pile is Vixen Tor, presenting from one point a -resemblance to the Sphinx. Not a single relic of early man is in its -immediate neighbourhood. We can hardly doubt that prehistoric man was -not as big a fool as we suppose him, and that he was quite able to see -that Bowerman's Nose and Vixen Tor were natural objects as truly as the -tors on the hilltops. - -The logan stones on the moor are numerous, and these, also, are natural -formations. The granite weathers irregularly; a hard bed alternates -with one that is soft, and the wind and rain eat into the more -crumbling layer and gnaw it away, till the harder superincumbent mass -rests on one or two points. Either it topples over and becomes one -more block in a clitter, or it remains balanced, and, if fairly evenly -balanced, can be made to rock like a cradle. - -Here is a specimen of tall twaddle from the hand of Mrs. Bray or the -Rev. E. Atkyns Bray, her husband:-- - - "There must have been a more than ordinary feeling of awe inspired - in the mind of the criminal by ascending heights covered with - a multitude, to whose gaze he was exposed, as he drew nigh and - looked upon these massive rocks, the seat of divine authority and - judgment. How imposing must have been the sight of the priesthood - and their numerous trains, surrounded by all the outward pomps - and insignia of their office; as he listened to the solemn hymns - of the vates, preparatory to the ceremonial of justice; or as he - stepped within the sacred inclosure, there to receive condemnation - or acquittal, to be referred to the ordeal of the logan, or the - tolmen, according to the will of the presiding priest! As he - slowly advanced and thought upon these things, often must he have - shuddered and trembled to meet the Druid's eye, when he stood by - 'the stone of his power.'" - -All this rubbish is based on supposition. There is not a particle of -evidence to support it. Toland was the first to start the theory that -logan stones were used for ordeal purposes or as oracles. He says: -"The Druids made the people believe that they alone could move these -stones, and by a miracle only, by which pretended power they condemned -or acquitted the accused, and often brought criminals to confess -what could in no other way be extorted from them." Here is a positive -statement. Toland died in 1722. Whence did Toland derive this? From his -imagination only. Then Rowe quotes him as his authority for attributing -to the logan stones this function of delivering oracular judgments. -Appeal was wont to be made to a line in Ossian as a support for the -theory, but since Ossian has been proved to be a fraud antiquaries are -chary of referring to him. - -[Illustration: LOGAN ROCK. THE RUGGLESTONE, WIDDECOMBE.] - -There are some really fine logan rocks on Dartmoor. Perhaps the largest -is one above the West Okement, which I remember seeing many years ago, -when a boy, rolling in a strong wind like a boat at sea. That on Rippon -Tor measures 16½ feet in length, and is about 4½ feet in thickness and -nearly the same in breadth. It still logs, but not so well as formerly, -owing to mischievous interference with it. There is a large one in -the Teign, above Fingle Bridge, that can also be made to roll with the -application of a little strength. - -The Rugglestone, near Widdecombe-in-the-Moor, measures 22 feet by 14 -feet in one part, and 19 feet by 17 feet in another, and is 5 feet 6 -inches in mean thickness. Its computed weight is 110 tons, whereas the -celebrated logan in Cornwall weighs 90 tons. This stone is poised upon -two points. - -Roos Tor, which the Ordnance surveyors playfully render Rolls Tor, -possessed two logan stones, but quarrymen have destroyed one, together -with the fine mass of rock on which it stood. Near it lay a huge -menhir, never removed till these depredators broke it up. I give an -illustration of the head of the tor with its two logans, taken in -1852; one alone remains. On Black Tor, near the road from Princetown -to Plymouth, is a small logan, with a rock basin on the top, and -with a projection like a handle. It can be made to oscillate without -difficulty. A small logan is near the stone rows on Challacombe in the -miners' workings. Its existence is purely accidental. Another is near a -collection of hut circles on the slope of Combeshead Tor. - -The rock basins are numerous; they are hollow pans formed on the -surface of granite slabs by the action of wind and water, assisted by -particles of grit set in rotation by the wind. "That this rude and -primitive species of basin formed part of the apparatus of Druidism -there can be little doubt," says Mr. Rowe, "but the specific purpose -for which they were designed is not clear." Fosbroke unhesitatingly -pronounces rock basins to be "cavities _cut_ in the surface of a rock, -supposed for reservoirs, to preserve the rain or dew in its original -purity, for the religious uses of the Druids." - -[Illustration: ROOS TOR, WITH ITS LOGANS, PREVIOUS TO DESTRUCTION.] - -All this assertion must be put aside. The bowls are excavated by -natural agencies, and there is not a scrap of evidence to show that -they were put to superstitious or any other use. The largest is on -Caistor Rock, and this has been railed round, as sheep floundered in -and got drowned, or could not get out again. Mis Tor has a fine basin, -called "The Devil's Frying-pan." - -These basins may be seen in all stages of growth on the tops of the -tors. - -The tolmen is either a holed stone or a rock supported in such a manner -as to preserve it from falling, and supposed to have been used as an -apparatus of ordeal, by requiring those accused of a crime to creep -through the orifice. - -Holed stones have unquestionably been employed for the purpose of -taking oaths and sealing compacts, the hands being passed through -an opening and clasped. And certainly S. Wilfrid's needle, in the -crypt under Ripon Minster, was made use of as a test to try whether a -maiden accused of incontinency was guilty or not. There is, however, -no well-defined tolmen on Dartmoor that can be pronounced to be -artificial. A holed stone in the Teign was pierced by the action of the -water, and a suspended rock at an incline on Staple Tor, called by Mrs. -Bray and Mr. Rowe a tolmen, is a natural production also. It is, of -course, possible that stones thus poised may have been employed for the -purpose, but we have no evidence that those on Dartmoor were so used. - -Of rocks supported at one end by a small stone there are plenty. There -is a good one on Yar Tor, above Dartmeet. - -The old school of antiquaries started with a theory, and then sought -for illustrations to fit into their theories, and took facts and -distorted them to serve their purpose, or saw proofs where no proofs -existed. The new school accumulates statistics and piles up facts, and -then only endeavours to work out a plausible theory to account for the -facts laboriously collected and registered. It never starts with a -theory, but applies practices in savage life still in use to explain -the customs of prehistoric men, who lived on the same cultural level as -the savages of the present day. - -One word of caution must be given relative to the Druids, who are -credited with so much. It is true that there were Druids in Britain -and in Ireland, but they were the schamans, or medicine-men, of the -earlier Ivernian race, who maintained their repute among the conquering -Celts, and their representatives at the present day are the white -witches who practise on the credulity of our villagers. - - - - -CHAPTER VI. - -DEAD MEN'S DUST - - Cairns on Dartmoor--Why mostly in solitary places and - on hilltops--The theory of wearing mourning--Its real - origin--Various modes of deceiving the dead or discouraging them - from returning--The desire of the ghost to get home--Is cajoled - or scared away--How widows get rid of the ghosts of their first - husbands--Disguising the dead. - - -One of the most striking experiences of an explorer of Dartmoor is -the coming upon great cairns in the most remote and inaccessible -parts of that waste. Not a lone hill surrounded by bogs is without -its great mound of earth or pile of stones over some dead man. In the -howling wilderness about Cranmere Pool, where are no traces of human -habitation, there lie the dead. On every rise above the swamps and -fathomless morasses of Fox Tor, there they are scattered thick. Almost -always the dead were conveyed to the tops of hills, or placed on the -brows of elevations far away from the settlements of the living. - -Why was this? - -Because prehistoric men were in fear of their dead people. - -I remember, in 1860, riding across the central desert of Iceland, and -coming about midnight, when the summer sun was just dipped below the -polar sea, on a solitary cairn among pools of frozen water and amidst -illimitable tracts of volcanic ash. My guide told me it was the grave -of one Glamr, who had so haunted the farms in the Vatnsdal that the -people of the valley had combined to dig him up and transport the -corpse almost a day's journey into the central desert, where they cut -off his head, and buried the body in a sitting posture with his own -skull as his throne, an indignity which the ghost was likely to so -resent as never to venture to show again. - -The heathen Icelander, on the death of a father in the family, was -removed by the anxious heir to the estate in an ingenious manner. The -wall of the house behind the bed was broken through, and the corpse -drawn out of doors by that way, and then the opening was hastily -repaired. He was then hurried off to his grave. The heir was so afraid -lest the venerable party should saunter home again and reclaim his -property, that the father was carried forth in this peculiar manner in -order to bewilder him and make him find a difficulty in returning. - -A strip of black cloth an inch and a half in width stitched round the -sleeve--that is the final, or perhaps penultimate relic (for it may -dwindle further to a black thread) of the usage of wearing mourning on -the decease of a relative. - -The usage is one that commends itself to us as an outward and visible -sign of the inward sentiment of bereavement, and not one in ten -thousand who adopt mourning has any idea that it ever possessed a -signification of another sort. And yet the correlation of general -custom--of mourning fashions--leads us to the inexorable conclusion -that in its inception the practice had quite a different signification -from that now attributed to it, nay more, that it is solely because its -primitive meaning has been absolutely forgotten, and an entirely novel -significance given to it, that mourning is still employed after a death. - -Look back through the telescope of anthropology at our ancestors in -their naked savagery after a death, and we see them daub themselves -with soot mingled with tallow. When the savage assumed clothes and -became a civilised man, he replaced the fat and lampblack with black -cloth, and this black cloth has descended to us in the nineteenth -century as the customary and intelligible trappings of woe. - -The Chinaman when in a condition of bereavement assumes white garments, -and we may be pretty certain that his barbarous ancestor, like the -Andaman Islander of the present day, pipe-clayed his naked body after -the decease and funeral of a relative. In Egypt yellow was the symbol -of sorrow for a death, and that points back to the ancestral nude -Egyptian having smeared himself with yellow ochre. - -Black was not the universal hue of mourning in Europe. In Castile white -obtained on the death of its princes. Herrera states that the last -time white was thus employed was in 1498 on the death of Prince John. -This use of white indicates chalk or pipe-clay as the daub affected by -the ancestors of the house of Castile in primeval time as a badge of -bereavement. - -Various explanations have been offered to account for the variance of -colour. White has been supposed to denote purity--and to this day white -gloves and hatbands and scarves are employed at the funeral of a young -girl. - -Yellow has been supposed to symbolise that death is the end of human -hopes, because falling leaves are sere; black is taken as the privation -of light; and purple or violet also affected as a blending of joy with -sorrow. Christian moralists have declaimed against black as heathen, -as denoting an aspect of death devoid of hope, and gradually purple -is taking its place in the trappings of the hearse, if not of the -mourners, and the pall is now very generally violet. - -But these explanations are after-thoughts, and an attempt to give -reason for the divergence of usage which might satisfy: they are -really no explanations at all. The usage goes back to a period when -there were no such refinements of thought. If violet or purple has -been traditional, it is so merely because the ancestral Briton stained -himself with woad on the death of a relative. - -The pipe-clay, lampblack, yellow ochre, and woad of the primeval -mourners must be brought into range with a whole series of other -mourning usages, and then the result is something of an "eye-opener." -It reveals a condition of mind and an aspect of death that cause not a -little surprise and amusement. It is one of the most astonishing, and, -perhaps, shocking traits of barbarous life, that death revolutionises -completely the feelings of the survivors towards their deceased -husbands, wives, parents, and other relatives. - -A married couple may have been sincerely attached to each other so long -as the vital spark was twinkling, but the moment it is extinguished the -dead partner becomes, not a sadly sweet reminiscence, but an object of -the liveliest terror to the survivor. He or she does everything that -ingenuity can suggest to get himself or herself out of all association -in body and spirit with the late lamented. Death is held to be -thoroughly demoralising to the deceased. However exemplary a person he -or she may have been in life, after death the ghost is little less than -a plaguing, spiteful spirit. - -There is in the savage no tender clinging to the remembrance of the -loved one; he is transformed into a terrible bugbear, who must be -evaded and avoided by every contrivance conceivable. This is due, -doubtless, mainly to the inability of the uncultivated mind to -discriminate between what is seen waking from what presents itself in -phantasy to the dreaming head. After a funeral it is natural enough -for the mourners to dream of the dead, and they at once conclude that -they have been visited by his _revenant_. After a funeral feast--a -great gorging of pork or beef--it is very natural that the sense of -oppression and pain felt should be associated with the dear departed, -and should translate itself into the idea that he has come from his -grave to sit on the chests of those who have bewailed him. - -Moreover, the savage associates the idea of desolation, death, -discomfort, with the condition of the soul after death, and believes -that the ghosts do all they can to return to their former haunts and -associates for the sake of the warmth and food, the shelter of the -huts, and the entertainment of the society of their fellows. But the -living men and women are not at all eager to receive the ghosts into -the family circle, and they accordingly adopt all kinds of "dodges," -expedients to prevent the departed from making these irksome and -undesired visits. - -The Venerable Bede tells us that Laurence, Archbishop of Canterbury, -resolved on flying from England because he was hopeless of effecting -any good under the successor of Ethelbert, King of Kent. The night -before he fled he slept on the floor of the church, and dreamed that S. -Peter cudgelled him soundly for resolving to abandon his sacred charge. -In the morning he awoke stiff and full of aches and pains. Turned into -modern language we should say that Archbishop Laurence was attacked -with rheumatism on account of his having slept on the cold stones of -the church. His mind had been troubled before he went to sleep with -doubts whether he was doing right in abandoning his duty, and very -naturally this trouble of conscience coloured his dream and gave to his -rheumatic twinges the complexion they assumed in his mind. - -Now Archbishop Laurence regarded the Prince of the Apostles in -precisely the light in which a savage views his deceased relatives and -ancestors. He associates his maladies, his pains, with them, if he -should happen to dream of them. If, however, when in pain, he dreams -of a living person, then he holds that this living person has cast a -magical spell over him. - -Among Nature's men, before they have gone through the mill of -civilisation, plenty to eat and to drink, and someone to talk to, are -the essentials of happiness. They see that the dead have none of these -requisites, they consider that they are miserable without them. The -writer remembers how, when he was a boy, and attended the funeral of -a relative in November, he could not sleep all night--a bitter frosty -night--with the thought how cold it must be to the dead in the vault, -without blankets, hot bottle, or fire. It was in vain for him to reason -against the feeling; the feeling was so strong in him that he was -conscious of an uncomfortable expectation of the dead coming to claim a -share of the blanket, fire, or hot bottle. Now the savage never reasons -against such a feeling, and he assumes that the dead will return, as a -matter of course, for what he cannot have in the grave. - -The ghost is very anxious to assert its former rights. A widow has to -get rid of the ghost of her first husband before she can marry again. -In Parma a widow about to be remarried is pelted with sticks and -stones, not in the least because the Parmese object to remarriage, but -in order to scare away the ghost of number one who is hanging about his -wife, and who will resent his displacement in her affections by number -two. - -To the present day, in some of the villages of the ancient Duchy of -Teck, in Würtemberg, it is customary when a corpse is being conveyed -to the cemetery for the relatives and friends to surround the dead, -and in turn talk to it--assure it what a blessed rest it is going to; -how anxious the kinsfolk are that it may be comfortable; how handsome -will be the cross set over the grave; how much all desire that it may -sleep soundly and not by any means leave the grave and come haunting -old scenes and friends; how unreasonable such conduct as the latter -hinted at would be--how it would alter the regard entertained for the -deceased, how disrespectful to the Almighty who gives rest to the good, -and how it would be regarded as an admission of an uneasy conscience. -Lively comparisons are drawn between the joys of paradise and the vale -of tears that has been quitted, so as to take away from the deceased -all desire to return. - -This is a survival of primitive usage and mode of thought, and has its -analogies in many places and among diverse races. - -The Dacotah Indians address the ghost of the dead in the same "soft -solder" to induce it to take the road to the world of spirits, and not -to come sauntering back to its wigwam. In Siam and in China it is much -the same; persuasion, flattery, threats, are employed. - -Unhappily, all ghosts are not open to persuasion, and see through -the designs of the mourners, and with them severer measures have to -be resorted to. Among the Slavs of the Danube and the Czechs, the -bereaved, after the funeral, on going home, turn themselves about after -every few steps, and throw sticks, stones, mud, even hot coals, in the -direction of the churchyard, so as to frighten the spirit back to the -grave so considerately provided for it. A Finnish tribe has not even -the decency to wait till the corpse is covered with soil; they fire -pistols and guns after it as it goes to its grave. - -In _Hamlet_, at the funeral of Ophelia, the priest says:-- - - "For charitable prayers, - Shards, flints, and pebbles should be thrown on her." - -Unquestionably it must have been customary in England thus to pelt a -ghost that was suspected of the intention to wander. The stake driven -through the suicide's body was a summary way of ensuring that his ghost -should not be troublesome. - -Those Finns who fired guns after a dead man had another expedient for -holding him fast, if the first failed, and that was to nail him down in -his coffin. The Arabs tie his legs together. The Wallachs drive a long -nail through his skull; and this usage explains the many skulls that -have been exhumed in Germany thus perforated. - -The Californian Indians were wont to break the spine of the corpse -so as to paralyse his lower limbs and make "walking" impossible. -Spirit and body, to the unreasoning mind, are intimately associated. -A hurt done to the body wounds the soul. Mrs. Crowe, in her _Night -Side of Nature_, tells a story reversing this. A gentleman in Germany -was dying. He expressed great desire to see his son, who was a -ne'er-do-well, and was squandering his money in Paris. At that time the -young man was sitting on a bench in the Bois-de-Boulogne, with a switch -in his hand. Suddenly, he beheld his old father before him. Convinced -that he saw a phantom, he raised his switch, and cut the apparition -once, twice, and thrice across the face, and it vanished. At that -moment the dying father uttered a scream, and held his hands to his -face. "My boy! my boy! He is striking me again--again!" and he died. -The Algonquin Indians beat the walls of the death-chamber to drive -out the ghost. In Sumatra a priest is employed with a broom to sweep -the ghost out. In Scotland and in North Germany the chairs on which a -coffin has rested are reversed, lest the dead man should take a fancy -to sit on them instead of going to his grave. In ancient Mexico certain -professional ghost ejectors were employed, who, after a funeral, were -invited to visit and thoroughly explore the house whence the dead had -been removed, and if they found the ghost lurking about in corners, -in cupboards, under beds--anywhere, to kick it out. In Siberia, after -forty days' "law" given to the ghost, if it be still found loafing -about, the Schaman is sent for, who drums it out. He extorts brandy, -which he professes to require, as he has to personally conduct the -deceased to the land of spirits, where he will make it and the other -ghosts so fuddled that they will forget the way back to earth. - -In North Germany a troublesome ghost is bagged, and the bag is emptied -in some lone spot, or in the garden of a neighbour against whom a -grudge is entertained. - -Another mode of getting rid of the spirit of the dear departed is to -confuse it as to its way home. This is done in various ways. Sometimes -the road by which it has been carried to its resting-place is swept to -efface the footprints, and a false track is made into a wood or on to -a moor so that the ghost may take the wrong road. Sometimes ashes are -strewn on the way to hide the footprints. Sometimes the dead is carried -rapidly three or four times round the house so as to make him giddy and -not know in which direction he is carried.[10] The universal practice -of closing the eyes of the dead may be taken to have originated in the -desire that he might be prevented from seeing his way. - -In places it was, as already said, customary for the dead body to be -taken out of the house, not through the door, but by a hole knocked in -the wall for the purpose, and backwards. In Corea, blinders made of -black silk are put on the dead man's eyes, to prevent him from finding -his way home. - -Many savage nations entirely abandon a hut or a camp in which a death -has occurred for precisely the same reason--of throwing the dead man's -spirit into confusion as to its way home. - -It was a common practice in England till quite recently for the room -in which a death had occurred to be closed for some time, and this is -merely a survival of the custom of abandoning the place where a spirit -has left the body. The Esquimaux take out their dying relatives to huts -constructed of blocks of ice or snow, and leave them there to expire, -for ghosts are as stupid as they are troublesome; they have no more -wits than a peacock, they can only find their way to the place where -they died. - -Other usages are to divert a stream and bury the corpse in the -river-bed, or lay it beyond running water, which, according to -ghost-lore, it cannot pass. Or, again, fires are lighted across its -path, and it shrinks from passing through flames. As for water, ghosts -loathe it. Among the Matamba negroes a widow is flung into the water -and dipped repeatedly so as to wash off the ghost of the dead husband, -which is supposed to be clinging to her. In New Zealand, among the -Maoris, all who have followed the corpse dive into water so as to throw -off the ghost which is sneaking home after them. In Tahiti, all who -have assisted at a burial run as hard as they can to the sea and take -headers into it for the same object. It is the same in New Guinea. We -see the same idea reduced to a mere form in ancient Rome, where, in -place of the dive through water, a vessel of water was carried twice -round those who had followed the corpse, and they were sprinkled. The -custom of washing for purification after a funeral practised by the -Jews is a reminiscence of the usage, with a novel explanation given to -it. - -In the South Pacific, in the Hervey Islands, after a death, men turn -out to pummel and fight the returning spirit, and give it a good -drubbing in the air. - -Now perhaps the reader may have been brought to understand what the -sundry mourning costumes originally meant. They were disguises whereby -to deceive the ghosts, so that they might not recognise and pester -with their undesired attentions the relatives who live. Indians who -are wont to paint themselves habitually, go after a funeral totally -un-bedecked with colour. On the other hand, other savages daub -themselves fantastically with various colours, making themselves as -unlike to what they were previously as is possible. The Coreans, when -in mourning, assume hats with low rims that conceal their features. - -The Papuans conceal themselves under extinguishers made of banana -leaves. Elsewhere in New Guinea they envelop themselves in a -wicker-work frame in which they can hardly walk. Among the Mpongues of -Western Africa, those who on ordinary occasions wear garments, when -suffering bereavement walk in complete nudity. Valerius Maximus tells -us that among the Lycians it was customary in mourning for the men to -disguise themselves in women's garments. - -The custom of cutting the hair short, and of scratching and disfiguring -the face, and of rending the garments, all originated from the same -thought--to make the survivors unrecognisable by the ghost of the -deceased. Plutarch asserts that the Sacæ, after a death, went down into -pits and hid themselves for days from the light of the sun. Australian -widows near the north-west bend of the Murray shave their heads and -plaster them with pipe-clay, which, when dry, forms a close-fitting -skull-cap. The spirit of the late lamented, on returning to his better -half, either does not recognise his spouse, or is so disgusted with her -appearance that he leaves her for ever. - -There is almost no end to the expedients adopted for getting rid of -the dead. Piles of stones are heaped over them, they are buried deep -in the earth, they are walled up in natural caves, they are inclosed -in megalithic structures, they are burned, they are sunk in the sea. -They are threatened, they are cajoled, they are hoodwinked. Every sort -of trickery is had recourse to throw them off the scent of home and to -displease them with their living relations. - -The wives, horses, dogs slain and buried with them, the copious -supplies of food and drink laid on their graves, are bribes to induce -them to be content with their situation. Nay, further, in very many -places no food may be eaten in the house of mourning for many days -after an interment. The object, of course, is to disappoint the -returning spirit, which comes seeking a meal, finds none; comes again -next day, finds none again; and after a while out of sheer disgust -desists from returning. - -A vast amount of misdirected ingenuity is expended in bamboozling and -bullying the unhappy ghosts; but the feature most striking in these -proceedings is the unanimous agreement in considering these ghosts -as such imbeciles. When they put off their outward husk, they divest -themselves of all that cunning which is the form that intelligence -takes in the savage. Not only so, but, although they remember and -crave after home comforts, they absolutely forget the tricks they had -themselves played on the souls of the dead in their own lifetime; they -walk and blunder into the traps which they had themselves laid for -other ghosts in the days of their flesh. - -Perhaps the lowest abyss of dunderheadedness they have been supposed -to reach is when made to mistake their own identity. Recently, near -Mentone, a series of prehistoric interments in caves has been exposed. -They reveal the dead men as having had their heads daubed over with -red oxide of iron. Still extant races of savages paint, plaster, and -disfigure their dead. The prehistoric Greeks masked them. The Aztecs -masked their deceased kings, and the Siamese do so still. We cannot say -with absolute certainty what the object is, but we are probably not far -out when we conjecture the purpose to be to make the dead forget who -they are when they look at their reflection in the water. There was a -favourite song sung some sixty years ago relative to a little old woman -who got "muzzy." Whilst in this condition some naughty boys cut her -skirts at her knees. When she woke up and saw her condition, "Lawk!" -said the little old woman, "this never is me!" And certain ancient -peoples treated their dead in something the same way; they disguised -and disfigured them so that each ghost on waking up might exclaim, -"Lawk! this never is me!" And so, having lost its identity, the soul -did not consider that it had a right to revisit its old home and molest -its old acquaintances. - -[Illustration: PLAN OF WHITTOR CAMP] - -FOOTNOTES: - -[10] This was done at Manaton at every funeral, the only difference -being that he was carried round and round the cross. A former rector, -Rev. C. Carwithen, destroyed the cross so as to put a stop to this -practice. - - - - -CHAPTER VII. - -THE CAMPS - - No camps in the forest--All on the confines--No apprehension - of attack from the south--Whit Tor--The exploration of the - camp--How the walls were constructed--This explains their ruinous - condition--Brent Tor formerly a camp--How a road up it was - made--The Dewerstone camp--Earthen camps--Hembury--The Galford - Down camp--A Saxon thegn's burrh--Old Squire Bidlake--Lydford - fortifications. - - -As I have already said, the inhabitants of Dartmoor in prehistoric -times seem to have been of a peaceable disposition. There are pounds -to contain cattle and protect them against wolves, but no camps on the -moor itself. What camps there are will be found on its confines, as -though the natives feared attack from an enemy outside, but were not -troubled by their neighbours of the same blood and pursuits. - -Of camps there are two sorts, but we cannot be sure that they belong to -different races of men. The stone-walled fortresses are few--Brent Tor, -Whit Tor, Cranbrook, one near Ashburton, and the Dewerstone. Of earth, -or earth and stone mixed, there are more. A small one above Tavistock, -an immense and very important one at Galford or Burleigh in Bridestowe, -one above the station at Okehampton, Wooston and Prestonbury on the -Teign, Holne and Hembury on the Dart. Along the south of the moor -are none till we reach Boringdon, between the Plym and the Tory. But -one only of all these has been systematically explored, and that is, -perhaps, the finest, on Whit Tor, above Mary and Peter Tavy. - -Whit Tor rises to the height of 1,526 feet above the sea-level. It is -on Cudlipptown Down, and commands exceedingly fine views westward as -far as the distant Cornish hills. - -The tor is not of granite, but of gabbro, an eruptive igneous rock, -very black and hard, and splitting along defined planes under the -action of the weather. The north side near the summit is covered with a -clitter of broken masses. - -The boldest masses of rock rise on the south precipitously, but there -are fangs of rock that shoot up over the small plateau that forms the -summit of the hill. - -The whole of the summit is surrounded by a double wall in a very -ruinous condition, and this is to a considerable extent due to the -smallness of the stones of which it was composed. The faces of the -walls were to be traced only by digging, and were never more than -doubtful. - -Both walls appear to have been 10 feet thick, perhaps a little more; -the outer, when perfect, might have had a height of 4 to 4½ feet, -whilst the inner, judged by the débris, appears to have been 6 to 7 -feet high. - -The space between the walls varied, owing to the inequalities of the -ground, but was generally 10 feet wide. - -The area inclosed by the innermost wall amounts to close on one and a -half acres; the total amount included within the outer wall is about -two and a half acres of ground. - -The circumference is very much broken up, as is also the inclosed area, -by considerable masses of protruding rocks. About these, within the -camp, heaps of small stones had been piled up, forming cairns. The -largest and most notable of these is at the south-west, and consists -of a core of rock about which an immense accumulation of stones has -been heaped. All these cairns were thoroughly explored. They covered -no interments, and although they disclosed evidences that fires had -been lighted against the rocks, and that people had camped there for -a while, they showed no tokens of structural erection, as though they -were ruinous huts built against the native rock. The huge cairn was -removed with great labour, and revealed nothing whatever beneath it but -one flint flake. - -These cairns, there can be little doubt, were collections of stones for -the use of the besieged, to serve as missiles, or for the repair of the -walls. - -Within the area of the camp are a few hut circles. One near the centre -is double, and contained an incredible number of flint chips, a flint -scraper, and a core from which flakes had been struck. The whole area -is littered with flint chips that are brought up by the moles when -making their burrows, and curiously enough not a single arrow-head -or flake that can be confidently set down as a weapon has been -disinterred. The pottery found is all of the hand-made cooking-vessel -type. - -To the east is a circle sheltered on one side by a mass of rock, that -has a second chamber, a sort of bedroom made under a slab of rock, with -the interstices on all sides built up, except only on that by which -it was entered from the hut. A good deal of flint was found there. -Outside, on the south, was another hut circle, where a piece of clear -quartz crystal was found, together with a flint knife that had one edge -serrated by use. - -[Illustration: COVERED CHAMBER AND COOKING-HOLE.] - -Connected with the camp on the north-east is a ruined wall that leads -to an inclosure with numerous hut circles. South-west of the camp -further down the hill is a pound in good preservation with eight hut -circles in it. A reeve or bank to the west of the camp leads down to -other collections of habitations of the same description. - -[Illustration: CONSTRUCTION OF STONE AND TIMBER WALL.] - -Some ten cairns on the slopes have been investigated, but have yielded -little beyond the handful of ashes sunk in a pit in the centre that -represents the dead. A ruined kistvaen, much mutilated, lies between -the camp and the Langstone, a menhir that gives its name to the common, -and which is the starting-point of a stone row of very inconsiderable -blocks that led to a cairn now demolished, and its place occupied by a -pool. From Langstone a track to the south-east leads by the head of the -Peter Tavy stream, which rises in a bog, to a fine circle of standing -stones, and on the slope below that and above the Walkham river is a -large settlement of some thirty or forty habitations. Beyond the Peter -Tavy brook, moreover, are numerous clusters of dwellings. To all the -population who lived in these huts, Whit Tor had served as a camp of -refuge. The place deserves a visit, for we have there collected within -a small radius the houses and hamlets occupied by the primeval race, -the tombs of their dead, the stone row set up in memory of some chief -represented by the Longstone towering above the petty stones below, the -circle in which the dead were burned, and finally, the camp to which -they flew to defend their beloved moor from invasion. - -It may cause some surprise that the walls of the stone castles should -be in such complete ruin. But, in all likelihood, they were constructed -on the same principle as the Gaulish camps described by Cæsar. They -were built of timber frames packed in with stones, and the logs -mortised together held the stones in place. When, however, the wood -rotted, this mode of construction ensured and precipitated utter ruin. -At Murcens, in the department of Lot, is one of these stone camps, -and sufficiently well preserved, owing to the size of the limestone -slabs employed in the building, to show precisely how the whole was -constructed. But the walls of Iosolodunum, that held out so bravely -against Cæsar, being built of small stones compacted with timber, are -now but heaps of ruin, no better than those of Whit Tor. - -Brent Tor was fortified in a manner very similar to Whit Tor; the outer -wall remains fairly perfect on the north side, but the inner wall has -been much injured. In this instance it is not the summit, but the base -of the hill that has been defended. As there is a church on the summit, -as also a churchyard with its wall, these have drawn their supplies -from the circumvallation. Moreover, it has been broken through to form -a way up to the church. - -[Illustration: BRENT TOR] - -A late curate of Tavistock, whose function it was to take the service -on Brent Tor, and who found it often desperate work to scramble to the -summit in storm and sleet and rain, resolved on forming a roadway to -the churchyard gate. But he experienced some difficulty in persuading -men to go out from Tavistock to work at this churchway. However, he -supplied himself with several bottles of whisky, and when he saw a -sturdy labourer standing idle in the market-place he invited him into -his lodgings and plied him with hot grog, till the man in a moist and -smiling condition assented to the proposition that he should give a day -to the Brent Tor path. By this means it was made. The curate was wont -to say: "Hannibal cut his way through the Alps with vinegar; I hewed -mine over Brent Tor with prime usquebaugh." Few traces of this way -remain, but in making it sad mischief was made with the inner wall of -the fortress. - -On Brent Tor summit it is sometimes impossible to stand against the -wind. I remember how that on one occasion a baptismal party mounted -it in driving rain. The father carried the child, and he wore for -the occasion a new blue jersey. When the poor babe was presented at -the font it was not only streaming with water, but its sopped white -garments had become blue with the stain from the father's jersey. - -On an occasion of a funeral, when the parson emerged from the church -door he was all but prostrated by the north-west blast, and he and the -funeral party had to proceed to the grave much like frogs. "Crook'y -down, sir!" was the sexton's advice; and the whole company had to press -forward bent double, and to finish the service seated in the "lew" of -headstones. - -According to popular belief the graves, which are cut in the volcanic -tufa, fill with water, and the dead dissolve into a sort of soup. -But this is not true; the rock is dry and porous. It discharges its -drainage by a little spring on the north-east that in process of ages -has worked itself from stage to stage lower down the hill. - -The Dewerstone Camp consists of two stone walls drawn across the -headland. No walls were needed for the sides that were precipitous. -Cranbrook Castle is in very good preservation, except on the side -towards the Teign, where it has been removed by road-menders, but -not within recent years. It richly deserves to be investigated, and -the owners have recently granted permission to do so to the Dartmoor -Exploration Committee. - -We come next to the earthen-banked camps. Of these there is a very fine -example at Hembury, near Buckfastleigh. But the finest of all is in -Burleigh Wood, in the parish of Bridestowe. Here the side accessible -from Galford Down has been cut through, with a trench and a bank thrown -up on the camp side, and this is carried right across the neck. The -earthen banks were almost certainly crested with palisades. Hard by -this early camp, where a bronze palstave has been found, is another of -a different character, occupying the extreme point of the hill. This -consists of a tump or mound, with an earthwork round it as a ring. In -this are remains of iron-smelting. - -There can be little doubt as to the period of this latter. It was -the _burrh_ of the Anglo-Saxon, and was in every point similar to -the _mottes_ of the Merovingians in France. On the Bayeux tapestry -three fortified places are represented--Dinan, Dol, and Rennes--and -all are of the same type. A mound of earth was either thrown up, or a -hilltop was artificially shaped like a tumulus. On the top of this the -_thegn_ erected his fortress of wood. In the Bayeux representations the -superstructures at Dol and Rennes are of timber, and that of Dinan is -partly of timber and partly of stone. A flying bridge of wood led from -the gate in the palisading of the outer ring, supported on posts, and -conducted by an incline to the gate of the citadel. An example of one -of these camps at Bishopston in Gower has been explored recently.[11] -The stumps of the pales were there found embedded in the clay of the -bank, in tolerable preservation. - -In the valley below Burleigh Camp, commanding the ancient road from -Exeter by Okehampton to Launceston, was a third camp, that has been for -the most part obliterated; it occupied a rising knoll of limestone, and -this latter has been quarried, so that the camp earthworks have been -either destroyed or buried under the accumulations from the quarry. - -The locality is of great interest. The ridge goes by the name of -Galford, and there is reason to think that this was the Gavulford of -the Anglo-Saxon Chronicle, where, in 823, the Britons made their last -stand against Egbert and the Saxons of Devon. - -The place is by nature very strong, and it dominates two roads, that -from Exeter to Cornwall, and that which branched off from it on -Sourton Down and struck through Sourton to Lydford. The name Gavulford -signifies the holdfast on the _fordd_ or road. - -Burleigh Camp is on the estate of Bidlake, an interesting old manor -house, long the residence of a family of the same name, and deserving a -visit. Old Squire Bidlake was a zealous Royalist, and the Parliamentary -soldiers went to his house to seize him. As they entered the avenue -they met an elderly tramp in rags, and said, "You fellow. Have you seen -Squire Bidlake?" - -"Yes," he replied; "I've just come from the house, and when I was there -he was in it." - -Then he went his way, and not till too late did they discover that this -tramp was Squire Bidlake himself slipping away in disguise. - -He fled to Burleigh Wood. There is a little farm below it, in which, -at the time, lived a tenant of the name of Veale. Veale and his wife -and daughter concealed him in the underwood, and daily conveyed to him -food, and supplied him with blankets till the search for him ceased. - -At the Restoration, Squire Bidlake made over the farm to the Veales on -a nominal rent, to be held by them on this rent so long as a male Veale -of their descent remained to hold it. - -Both Bidlakes and Veales are now gone, and the little farmhouse is a -ruin. Squire Bidlake is supposed still to haunt the wood, and children -are frightened by their mothers with the threat that the old squire -will come and fetch them, if naughty. - -Lydford was strongly defended. It occupies a fringe of land between -ravines, and lines of fortification were drawn across the neck. These -may still be traced. The castle stands on a tump artificially shaped. -Beyond the church is another small camp, probably British. The castle -itself is a structure of stone, replacing the old Saxon _burrh_. - -It was probably from the bridges leading up into these citadels, which -the Norsemen saw when they harried our coasts, that they conceived -the idea that the rainbow was the great bridge leading up into Odin's -Valhalla. - -"What fools the gods must be," says the inquirer in the Edda, "to build -their passage of egress and ingress of such brittle stuff." - -FOOTNOTES: - -[11] _Archæologia Cambrensis_, July, 1899. The camp was excavated by -Colonel W. L. Morgan. - - - - -CHAPTER VIII - -TIN-STREAMING - - Remains of the tin-streamers--Dartmoor stream tin--Lode tin--The - dweller in the hut circles did not work the tin--The tin - trade with Britain--How tin was extracted--A furnace--Deep - Swincombe--Blowing-houses--The wheel introduced in the reign of - Elizabeth--Japanese primitive methods--Numerous blowing-house - ruins--The tin-mould stones--Merrivale Bridge--King's Oven--Its - present condition--Mining. - - -No one who has eyes in his head, and considers what he sees, if he has -been on Dartmoor, can have failed to observe how that every stream-bed -has been turned over, and how that every hollow in a hillside is -furrowed. - -The tin-streamers who thus scarred the face of the moor carried on -their works far down below where the rivers debouch from the moor on to -the lowlands, but there the evidences of their toil have been effaced -by culture. - -The tin found in the detritus of streams is the oxide, and is far purer -than tin found in the lode. Mining for tin was pursued on Dartmoor -during the Middle Ages to a limited extent only, and solely when the -stream tin was exhausted. - -[Illustration: BLOWING-HOUSE UNDER BLACK TOR] - -A very interesting excursion may be made from Douseland Station up the -Meavy valley to Nosworthy Bridge, above which several old tin-moulds -may be seen lying in the track beside the river, and tin-workings are -passed. But perhaps the most interesting portion of the walk is that up -the Nillacombe that opens on to the Meavy from the right below Kingset. - -[Illustration: TIN-WORKINGS, NILLACOMBE.] - -Above this the stream has been turned about and its bed torn up, and -rubble heaped in huge piles. Not only so, but the hill-slope to the -south is marked as with confluent smallpox, the result of the gropings -of miners after tin. They followed up every trickle from the side and -dug _costeening_, or _shoding_, pits everywhere in search of metal. - -The upper waters of the Webburn have in like manner been explored, -and some idea of the extent to which the moor was lacerated by the -miners may be obtained from the Warren Inn on the road from Post -Bridge to Moreton, looking east, when the slopes of Headland Warren and -Challacombe will be seen seamed deeply. - -The remains of the tinners have not been subjected to as full an -exploration as they merit, but certain results have nevertheless been -reached. One thing is abundantly clear, that all the tin-streaming was -done subsequently to the time when men occupied the hut circles. The -population living in them knew nothing of tin. - -Diodorus Siculus, who wrote B.C. 8, says that the dwellers at Belerium, -a cape of Britain, mined and smelted tin. "After beating it up into -knucklebone shapes they carry it to a certain island lying off Britain, -named Ictis, for at ebb tides, the space between drying up, they carry -the tin in waggons thither ... and thence the merchants buy it from the -inhabitants and carry it over to Gaul, and lastly, travelling by land -through Gaul about thirty days, they bring down the loads on horses to -the mouth of the Rhine." - -There can exist little doubt that Ictis is the same as Vectis, the -Isle of Wight. It is held that anciently the island was connected with -the mainland. The Roman station and harbour was at Brading. The early -workers first pounded the ore with stone crushers, and such have been -found. They then fanned it in the wind, which carried off the fine -light dust, and left the metal on the shovels on which they tossed -the ore and grit into the air. Beside some of the workings heaps of -this dust have been detected. The washing of the ore came later. When -sufficient had been collected, long troughs were sunk in the "calm," -or native clay, and these were filled with charcoal; then the tin ore -was laid on this charcoal, and either more of this latter was heaped -above, or else peat was piled up, with layers of ore. Finally the whole -was kindled. No bellows were used, but a draught through the channel -kept the whole glowing, and the metal ran through the fire into the -bottom of the hollow, or ran out at the end, as this rude furnace was -constructed on an incline. - -[Illustration: MORTAR-STONE, OKEFORD.] - -In Staffordshire, at Kinver, and in the neighbourhood of Stourbridge, -in Worcestershire, I have seen banks and hedges made up of what are -locally called _burrs_. These consist of masses of sand and iron slag, -two feet in diameter, round, and concave on one side, convex on the -other. These burrs were formed in the primitive manufacture of iron, -which much resembled that of tin. Andrew Yarranton, in _England's -Improvement by Sea and Land_, 1698, says that he saw dug up near the -walls of Worcester the hearth of an old Roman iron-furnace. - - "It was an open hearth upon which was placed alternately charcoal - and ironstone, to which fire being applied; it was urged by men - treading upon bellows. The operation was very slow and imperfect. - Unless the ore was very rich, not more than one hundredweight of - iron could be extracted in a day. The ironstone did not melt, but - was found at the bottom of the hearth in a large lump or bloom, - which was afterwards taken out and beaten under massive hammers - previous to its being worked into the required shape or form." - -The _burrs_ found are the sand and iron mixed that encased the _bloom_, -which was taken out by pincers and worked on the anvil. The scoria that -encased the bloom was thrown aside, and yet contains more than one-half -of iron. The iron reduced in this simple manner never ran, but it -became soft like dough, and could be removed and beaten into shape. - -The method of dealing with the tin was similar, only that in this -latter case the metal flowed. That foot bellows were employed before -the system of working bellows, and producing a continuous blast by -means of a water-wheel, is most probable. The foot bellows are known to -most primitive people, but in Agricola's illustration of the smelting -of tin none are shown. On the contrary, Æolus is represented in the -corner as blowing a natural blast. - -[Illustration: SLAG-POUNDING HOLLOWS, GOBBETTS.] - -The book of Agricola, published in 1556, shows that this primitive -method was still in practice so late as the middle of the sixteenth -century. - -But this clumsy method could not be long practised on Dartmoor, where -fuel--except peat--was scarce; and it gave way to a furnace of better -construction, where the receiver was circular, and a draught-hole was -at the bottom. One of these has been dug out and carefully examined at -Deep Swincombe. - -[Illustration: SMELTING ORE. (_After Agricola._)] - -[Illustration: PLAN OF BLOWING-HOUSE, DEEP SWINCOMBE.] - -It consists of a single chamber, 18 feet by 11 feet, rudely constructed -of masses of granite resting on one another by their own weight and -unset in mortar or in clay. The entrance was narrow and low. On one -side was the furnace, constructed of granite, one slab set upright to -form a side, and the back and other side built up rudely. A fragment -of the receptacle for the molten tin was found, with a receiver and -channel cut in it. Pottery was also found, which was of a very early -description. It was submitted to the late Sir Wollaston Franks, of the -British Museum, who said that he would have attributed it to the Celtic -period but for the bold scores made at the starting-point of a handle, -which are characteristic of Anglo-Saxon pottery. - -At the extremity furthest from the door was a _cache_ in the thickness -of the wall, formed something like a kistvaen, as a place in which -to store the metal and tools. The whole structure was banked up with -rubble and turf. - -Outside to the south still lies a mould-stone, a slab of elvan, in -which the mould had been cut, measuring 26 inches long by 12 inches at -one end and 15 at the other, and 5 inches deep. - -That this is the earliest tin-furnace yet discovered on Dartmoor admits -of no doubt. The curious mould-stone is quite different in shape from -any others found on the moor. No mortar-stones were discovered, and -this also is a token of antiquity. - -The earliest smelting arrangements must have been very crude, and much -tin was left in the slag. Until recently the Malays threw away their -slags, which contained as much as 40 per cent. of tin. As there have -been no mortar-stones found at Deep Swincombe, it is to be presumed -that the tinners disregarded their slags. These have not, moreover, -been found. The reason was this--the sets had been reworked at a later -time by the tinners at Gobbetts, further down the river. These later -men had stone mortars and a crazing mill, and finding these rich slags, -removed them, pounded them up in the hollowed mortar-stones, that may -be seen _in situ_ at Gobbetts, and re-smelted them. Deep Swincombe has -all the appearance of having been much pulled about by tinners since -the first furnace was erected. - -[Illustration: TIN-MOULD, DEEP SWINCOMBE.] - -The tin running out of the furnace was allowed to flow into holes in -the ground, and thence was ladled whilst in a molten condition and -poured into the moulds. - -Mr. Gowland has given a most interesting account of the manner in which -the metals are extracted from their ores in Japan.[12] This shows how -that the primitive methods are still in practice there. He says:-- - - "Although tin ore is found and worked in Japan in several - localities, there is but one ancient mine in the country. It is - situated in Taniyama, in the province of Satsuma. The excavations - of the old miners here are of a most extensive character, the - hillsides in places being literally honeycombed by their burrows, - indicating the production in past times of large quantities of the - metal. No remains, however, have been found to give any clue to the - date of the earliest workings. But whatever may have been their - date, the processes and appliances of the early smelters could not - have been more primitive than those I found in use when I visited - the mines in 1883. - - "The ore was roughly broken up by hammers on stone anvils, then - reduced to a coarse powder with the pounders used for decorticating - rice, the mortars being large blocks of stone with roughly hollowed - cavities. - - "It was finally ground in stone querns, and washed by women in a - stream to remove the earthy matter and foreign minerals with which - it was contaminated. The furnace in which the ore was smelted is - exactly the same as that used for copper ores, excepting that it - is somewhat less in diameter. The ore was charged into it wet, in - alternate layers with charcoal, and the process was conducted in - precisely the same way as in smelting oxidised copper ores. The tin - obtained was laded out of the furnace into moulds of clay." - -The furnace employed for copper is also described by Mr. Gowland:-- - - "An excavation, measuring about 4 feet long, 4 feet wide, and 2 - feet deep, is made, and this is filled with dry clay carefully - beaten down. In the centre of this bed of clay a shallow, - conical-shaped hole is scooped out. The hole is then lined with a - layer, about three inches thick, of damp clay mixed with charcoal, - and the furnace is complete. - - [Illustration: SMELTING TIN IN JAPAN.] - - "It has no apertures either for the injection of the blast or for - tapping out the metal. A blast of air is supplied to it generally - from two bellows, placed behind a wall of wattle well coated with - clay, by which they and the men working them are protected from - the heat. The blast is led from each bellows by a bamboo tube, - terminating in a very long nozzle of clay, which rests on the edge - of the furnace cavity." - -At Deep Swincombe no bellows were used; the draught probably came in -through the hole behind the furnace. - -But in the reign of Queen Elizabeth a great revolution in the smelting -of tin was wrought by the introduction of German workmen and their -improved methods. They brought in the water-wheel. The ruins that are -found in such abundance of "blowing-houses," as they are called--one at -the least beside every considerable stream--belong, for the most part, -to the Elizabethan period. They have their "leats" for carrying water -to them, and their pits for tiny wheels that worked the bellows. - -The situation of these smelting-houses may be found usually by the -mould-stones that lie near them. There is one below the slide or fall -of the Yealm, with its moulds in and by it, and another just above the -fall. There is one near the megalithic remains at Drizzlecombe, also -with its mould-stones. But it is unnecessary to particularise when they -are so numerous. I will, however, quote Mr. R. Burnard's description of -two in the Walkham valley as typical: - - "The first is about 250 yards above Merrivale Bridge, on the - left bank of the river. One jamb is erect, and, like most of the - doorways of Dartmoor blowing-houses, was low, and to be entered - necessitated an almost all-fours posture. Very little of the walls - is standing, but what remains is composed of large moor-stones, - dry laid. Near the entrance is a stone, 3 feet long and 2½ feet - wide, containing a mould, which at the top is 18 inches long, 13 - inches wide, and 6 inches deep. The sides are bevelled, so that the - bottom length is 12½ inches, with a width of 7 inches at one end - and 8 inches at the other. One end of the mould has a narrow gutter - leading from the top to halfway down the mould. This was probably - used for the insertion of a piece of iron prior to the metal being - run in, thus permitting the easy withdrawal of the block of tin - when cool from the mould. This stone also contains a small bevelled - ingot or sample mould, 4 inches long, 2 inches wide, and 1¼ inches - deep. - - "A water-wheel probably stood in the eastern recess of the house, - for there is a covered drain leading from here right under the - house and out at the western end, where the water was discharged - into the river. Traces of the leat which supplied the motive power - to this wheel may also be seen. - - "What appear to be the remains of the furnace, consisting of - massive stones placed vertically, and inclosing a small rectangular - space, are plainly visible. In this place, lying askew, as if it - had been thrown out of position, is a large stone containing a - long, shallow cavity, which may have been the bottom of the furnace - or 'float,' _i.e._ the cavity in which the molten tin collected - before being ladled into the mould. - - "This ruin lies at the nether end of deep, open cuttings, which - start from near Rundlestone Corner, and are continued right down to - the Walkham. - - "About 1,000 yards up stream is the ruin of the other - blowing-house, with remains of a wheel-pit and a leat. There - is also a stone containing a mould 16 inches long at the top, - 11 inches wide, and 6 inches deep. It is bevelled, so that the - bottom length is 12½ inches, with a width of 8 inches. Like the - mould-stone in the ruin below, it contains a sample ingot mould 3½ - inches long, 3 inches wide, and 2 inches deep. The remains in these - ruins are very similar to each other, and these blowing-houses - were probably smelting during the same period, indicating that a - considerable quantity of tin was raised in their neighbourhood."[13] - -Anciently, before the introduction of the wheel, the smelting-place -above all others was at King's Oven, or Furnum Regis, near the -Warren Inn, between Post Bridge and Moreton. It is mentioned in the -_Perambulation of Dartmoor_, made in 1240. It consists of a circular -inclosure of about seventy-two yards in diameter, forming a pound, with -the remains of a quadrangular building in it. The furnace itself was -destroyed some years ago. When the inclosure was made it was carried to -a cairn that was in part demolished, to serve to form the bank of the -pound. This cairn was ringed about with upright stones, and contained a -kistvaen. The latter was rifled, and most of the stones removed to form -the walls; but a few of the inclosing uprights were not meddled with, -and between two was found firmly wedged a beautiful flint scraper. - -As the drift tin was exhausted, and the slag of the earlier miners was -used up, it became necessary to run adits for tin, and work the veins. -These adits remain in several places, and where they have been opened -have yielded up iron bars and picks. But these are not more ancient -than mediæval times, probably late in them. That gold was found in the -granite rubble of the stream-beds is likely. A model of a gold-washing -apparatus was found on the moor a few years ago. It was made of zinc. - -According to an old Irish historical narrative, a bard was wont -to carry a wand of "white bronze" or tin, and his shoes were also -tin-plated.[14] One wonders whether at any time a bard thus shod and -with his rod of office strode over Dartmoor and chanted historic -ballads there! - -For such as would care to see these dry bones of antiquarian research -into the past of tin-streamers clothed with flesh, I must refer them to -my novel of _Guavas the Tinner_, in which I have described the mode of -life of the metal-seekers on the moor in the time of Elizabeth. - -FOOTNOTES: - -[12] _Archæologia_, vol. lvi. part 2, 1899. - -[13] _Dartmoor Pictorial Records_, 1893. - -[14] _Silva Gadhelica_, ii. p. 271. - - - - -CHAPTER IX. - -LYDFORD - - An out-of-the-world spot--The church dilapidated--The - clerk--Situation of Lydford--An early fortress--The church of S. - Petrock--British foundations--Monument of the watch-maker--The - castle--A prison--Mr. Radford--Will Huggins--Primitive - gate-hinges--The gorge--The waterfall--The Gubbins crew--Black - Down--Entries in the registers of Mary Tavy--Mary and Peter Tavy - churches--Bridestowe church--Bronescombe's Loaf and Cheese--Tavy - Cleave--Peat-works--Cross on Sourton Down. - - -Fifty years ago Lydford was one of the most out-of-the-world and wild -spots in England. I had almost written God-forsaken, but checked my -pen, for God forsakes no place, though He may tarry to bless. There -were no resident gentry--there never had been, as a glance at the -registers reveals. There was no resident rector--there had not been -within the memory of the oldest inhabitant. The rector was a wealthy -pluralist, rector of Southill and Callington, in Cornwall, who hardly -ever showed his face in Lydford, the largest parish in England, -and maintained a poor curate there on a hundred pounds a year in a -miserable cottage. - -The people were a law to themselves, and had the credit of being -inveterate poachers. - -[Illustration: ON THE LYD] - -The houses, thatched, built of moor-stones, not set in mortar, were -in a ruinous condition. The aspect of the place was that of an Irish -village. It was dominated by a ruined castle, and possessed a church -fast lapsing to ruin, and was girt in by walls long ago reduced -to heaps. One Christmas Day the curate went to the church for the -celebration of the Holy Communion, and found the altar covered with -snow that had blown in through the battered east window and under the -cracked slates of the roof. - -"I'll sweep it off," said the clerk. - -"On no account. God has spread His table," said the curate; and he -celebrated on the white sheet of snow. - -In the cottage that served as parsonage it was not much better. -The curate had two rooms downstairs and one above. One room was -slate-paved. Upstairs there was no ceiling, and he had occasionally to -spread his umbrella over his head and pillow when he went to bed. - -Now all is changed, or changing. - -The church has been restored, and is a model of what a church should -be. The old parsonage has been pulled down, and stables built on -the site, and the late Mr. Street, the architect, erected an absurd -Scottish castle with angle turrets and extinguisher caps to serve -as rectory. The ruinous houses are being replaced by trim, if ugly, -habitations. Only the gaunt castle remains gutted. - -About fifty years ago the clerk was addicted to lifting his elbow too -freely, and came to church occasionally in a hilarious condition. The -climax was reached at a funeral, when he tumbled into the grave before -the coffin, and apostrophised the dead man as he scrambled out: "Beg -parding, Ted; I bain't minded to change places wi' you just yet." - -The curate was compelled to discharge him and appoint another, Peter X. - -The old clerk refused to accept his dismissal, and gathered his -adherents, and on the ensuing Sunday marched at their head to the house -of God. Peter, advised of this, summoned his supporters, and, having -the keys, ensconced himself early within the sacred building, in the -clerk's pew, surrounded by his upholders. The rival party entered, and -a battle ensued between the factions. The curate absolutely refused -to perform the service to the clerking of the dismissed official, and -finally the latter and his gang were ejected from the church, loudly -professing that they would all turn Dissenters. - -This Peter remained clerk for fifty years. He obtained a subsidiary -revenue by carrying children afflicted with "the thrush" up the tower, -and holding them over the battlements at each pinnacle, whilst he -recited the Lord's Prayer. For this he received a small gratuity. - -He was a most worthy man, and, as he is now dead, I do not scruple to -mention that the story I have told in _Furze Bloom_, under the title of -"Peter Lempole," pertained to him. He never married, the reason being -that he had a childish old brother entirely dependent on him. Peter was -engaged to a bright, pretty girl; but one day she said to him, "When -us is married, then, mind y', Peter, I'm not going to have that silly -brother of yourn in the house with me." "Indeed!" was Peter's retort; -"then into my house _you_ shall never come." - -Lydford occupies a tongue of land between two ravines, one cleft -perpendicularly to a depth of seventy feet, the other steep, but not -sheer through rock. The old line of fortifications, much degraded by -the plough, may be traced distinctly, nevertheless, across the only -portion of the headland by which attack was possible. It is the sort -of fortress which goes by the name of cliff castle on the Cornish and -Welsh coasts. - -That it was a site chosen by the prehistoric population is undoubted. -Such a natural fortress could not have been overlooked, and it was -held since remote times till the Normans came. Yet, notwithstanding -the position being almost impregnable, it was taken, and the town of -Lydford was burnt by the Danes in 997 after they had destroyed the -Abbey of Tavistock. From Domesday it would appear that at the Conquest -Lydford was a walled town. It sent burgesses to Parliament twice in the -reign of Edward I. - -The church is dedicated to S. Petrock, and at its restoration some -remains of the old British church were discovered three feet below the -pavement of the present edifice. The slabs that had lain on the floor -of the original oratory were taken up and placed within the doorway -of the present church; so that the worshippers may stand on the very -stones on which their ancestors stood in the sixth century. That -into the walls of the reconstructed church most of the stones of the -original edifice were incorporated, is more than probable. - -There are several Petrock churches round the moor--Harford, South -Brent, Clannaborough; and probably the original founder and patron of -Buckfast Abbey was this saint. - -The great distinction between British foundations and those that were -Roman was this: a British church was called after its founder, whereas -a Roman church received its name from some scraps of dead bones of a -saint laid under the altar, or placed in it. Unhappily, we have no -record of S. Petrock's labours in Devon, but there can exist little -hesitation in holding that he was an apostle of the district about -Dartmoor and of a tract north of it as well, as also that he laboured -and died in Cornwall. - -Here is what Bede tells us of the manner of consecration among the -Celts. It must be premised that the historian is speaking of Cedd, -Bishop of the East Saxons from 653 to 664, to whom Oidilvald, King of -the Deisa, had given a piece of land. Cedd had received his training -from Celtic monks at Iona. - - "This man of God, wishing by prayer and fasting to purge the place - of its former pollution of wickedness, and so to lay the foundation - of the monastery, entreated the king that he would grant him the - means and permission to dwell there for that purpose, during the - whole time of Lent, which was then at hand. In all the days of this - time, except on Sundays, he fasted till the evening, according to - custom, and then took no other sustenance than a little bread, one - hen's egg, and a little milk mixed with water. This, he said, was - the custom of those of whom he had learned the rule of regular - discipline; first to consecrate to our Lord, by prayer and fasting, - the places which they had newly received for building a monastery - or a church. - - "When there were ten days of Lent still remaining there came a - messenger to call him to the king, and he, that the religious - work might not be intermitted, on account of the king's affairs, - entreated his priest, Cynebil, who was also his brother, to - complete the work that had been so piously begun. Cynebil readily - complied, and when the time of fasting and prayer was over he there - built the monastery, which is now called Lastingham."[15] - -The name Petrock is really Peterkin, the Celtic diminutive of Peter, -and it is probable that Peter Tavy is another of his foundations, as -well as certain other churches now regarded as dedicated to the great -apostle. - -The Saxons, who were saturated with Latin ideas, when they obtained -supremacy, rededicated the churches to saints of the Roman calendar, -if they were able to obtain from Italy some scraps of bone that it was -pretended had belonged to one of the saints of the Latin calendar. But -there is no evidence that the British Christians did other than call -their churches after the names of the founders. - -Lydford church is of fifteenth-century Perpendicular, but in the -chancel is an earlier piscina, and the font is possibly pre-Norman. The -chancel screen is gone, but the rood staircase remains. - -In the churchyard is the often-quoted epitaph of George Routleigh:-- - - "Here lies in horizontal position - the outside case of - George Routleigh, watch-maker, - whose abilities in that line were an honour - to his profession. - Integrity was the main-spring - and Prudence the regulator - of all the actions of his life. - Humane, generous and liberal - his Hand never stopped - till he had relieved distress. - So nicely regulated were all his motions - that he never went wrong, - except when set agoing - by people who did not know his key. - Even then he was easily set right again. - He had the art of disposing his time so well - that his hours glided away - in one continual round - of pleasure and delight. - Till an unlucky minute put a period to - his existence. - He departed this life Nov. 14, 1802, - aged 57, - wound up - in hopes of being taken in hand - by his Maker - and of being thoroughly cleaned, repaired - and set agoing - in the World to Come." - -In the churchyard may be noticed some altar tombs of the type not -infrequent round the moor. - -Due west of the church, across the graveyard hedge, is a small camp, -possibly British. - -The castle is planted on a tump, a natural elevation artificially -shaped, and is not particularly interesting. It is square, and was -built after the Conquest. By a charter of Edward I. it was constituted -a Stannary prison. Richard Strode, of Newnham Park, one of the -principal gentry of the county, moved in Parliament to restrain the -miners from discharging their refuse into the rivers with the result of -choking up the harbours. The miners were so incensed against him that -they captured him in 1512, had him summarily tried by their Stannary -Laws, on Crockern Tor, and threw him into Lydford gaol, where he -languished for some time, and it was with considerable difficulty that -his release was obtained. - -What with Forest Laws and Stannary Laws, Lydford Castle rarely lacked -tenants. Even in 1399 Lydford law was held in bad repute, for Wright, -in his collection of political poems, prints some verses of that date -which speak of it as such; and William Browne, in 1644, wrote on it:-- - - "I oft have heard of Lydford law, - How in the morn they hang and draw, - And sit in judgment after: - At first I wondered at it much, - But soon I found the matter such - As it deserves no laughter. - - "They have a castle on a hill; - I took it for some old wind-mill, - The vanes blown off by weather. - Than lie therein one night 'tis guessed - 'Twere better to be stoned or pressed - Or hanged, ere you come thither." - -And so on for sixteen verses. - -Below the castle is the water-gate where is the only spring from which -Lydford town was supplied till Mr. Radford brought drinking water into -the place. - -With Lydford the name of Daniel Radford will be indissolubly -connected--one of the noblest and kindest of men, and one of the most -modest. He cut the way up the ravine by which the gorge was made -accessible. When I was a boy the only method by which it could be -explored was by swimming and scrambling in summer, when the water was -low. Mr. Radford built Bridge House and restored the church. It was due -to him that I undertook, in 1888, to collect the folk-music in Devon -and Cornwall; and it is in Lydford churchyard that he lies, awaiting -the resurrection of the just. Not without deep feeling can I pen these -lines to commemorate one of the best men whom it has been my happiness -to know. - -As I have mentioned the folk-music of Devon, I may here add that -one of my assistants was old Will Huggins, of Lydford, a mason, who -entered enthusiastically into the work. I had an attack of influenza -in the winter of 1889-90, and had to leave England for Italy. Before -my departure Will promised me to go about among his old cronies and -collect ancient ballads. Alas! he caught a chill; it fell on his chest, -and when I returned in the spring, it was to learn that he was gone. - - "I'm going, I reckon, full mellow - To lay in the churchyard my head; - So say, God be wi' you, old fellow, - The last of the singers is dead." - -In the village street may be noticed, built into the hedge or wall, a -piece of granite with a round hole like a rock basin depressed in it. -Actually it is one of the stones of a gate-hinge. - -[Illustration: A PRIMITIVE HINGE.] - -Formerly the gates around Dartmoor had no iron hinges, but turned in -sockets cut in granite blocks. Few of these now remain in use, but the -stones may be noticed lying about in many places, and it is really -marvellous that the antiquaries of the past did not suppose they were -basins for sacrificial lustration. - -In 1880 the late Mr. Lukis was in Devon, planning the rude stone -monuments on Dartmoor for the Royal Society of Antiquaries. He came on -some of these cuplike holes in stones, and carefully measured and drew -them. Happily, I was able to show a gate swinging between two of these -blocks, and so explain to him their purpose. - -The Lydford ravine is the finest of its kind in England. A bridge -crosses it, and it is worth while looking over the parapet into the -gulf below, through which the river writhes and leaps. The gardens of -Bridge House are thrown open on Mondays, when a visitor may descend -and thread the gorge. But decidedly the best way for him to see the -beauties of the Lyd valley, where most restricted and romantic, is for -him to descend at the waterfall, a pretty but not grand slide of a -lateral brook, and ascend the ravine of the Lyd from thence; he will -pass through the gorge where finest, under the bridge, and pursue his -course till he comes out at a mill below the south gate of Lydford. -Hence a half-mile will take him to Kitt's Steps, another fall, a leap -of the Lyd into a basin half choked with the rubbish from a mine. -The mine happily failed, but it has left its heaps in the glen as a -permanent disfigurement. - -Considerable caution must be exercised in ascending the gorge, as the -path is narrow, and in places slippery. A schoolmistress was killed -here a few years ago. She turned to look at the sun glancing through -the leaves at the entrance of the chasm, became giddy, and fell over. -She was dead when her body was recovered. - -Inhabiting the valley and lateral combes of the Lyd, in the time -of Charles I. and the Commonwealth, was a race of men called the -Gubbinses. They were wild and lawless, and maintained themselves by -stealing sheep and cattle, and carrying them into the labyrinth of -glens where they could not be traced. - -Fuller, in his account of the wonders of the county of Devon, includes -the Gubbinses. He heard of them during his stay in Exeter, 1644-7. - - "I have read of an England beyond Wales, but the Gubbings land - is a Scythia within England, and they be pure heathens therein. - It lyeth near Brenttor, in the edge of Dartmore.... They are a - peculiar of their own making, exempt from Bishop, Archdeacon, - and all Authority, either ecclesiastical or civil. They live in - cotts (rather holes than houses) like swine, having all in common, - multiplied, without marriage, into many hundreds. Their language - is the drosse of the dregs of the vulgar Devonian; and the more - learned a man is, the worse he can understand them. Their wealth - consists in other men's goods, and they live by stealing the sheep - on the More, and vain it is for any to search their Houses, being - a Work beneath the pains of a Sheriff, and above the powers of any - constable. Such their fleetness, they will out-run many horses: - vivaciousnesse, they outlive most men, living in the ignorance of - luxury, the Extinguisher of Life, they hold together like Burrs, - offend One, and All will revenge his quarrel." - -William Browne speaks of them as near Lydford:-- - - "And near thereto's the Gubbins' cave, - A people that no knowledge have - Of law, of God, or men; - Whom Cæsar never yet subdued; - Who've lawless liv'd; of manners rude; - All savage in their den. - - "By whom, if any pass that way, - He dares not the least time to stay, - But presently they howl; - Upon which signal they do muster - Their naked forces in a cluster, - Led forth by Roger Rowle." - -It cannot be said that the race is altogether extinct. The magistrates -have had much trouble with certain persons living in hovels on the -outskirts of the moor, who subsist in the same manner. They carry -off lambs and young horses before they are marked, and when it is -difficult, not to say impossible, for the owners to identify them. -Their own ewes always have doubles. - -In the West Okement valley, in a solitary spot, are the foundations of -a cottage in which for many years a man lived, preying upon the flocks -and cattle on the moor, and carrying on his depredations with such -cunning that he was never caught. It was shrewdly suspected that he was -in league with a number of small farmers, and that he was by this means -able to pass on his captures and ensure their concealment. - -Black Down is an extensive ridge of moorland traversed by the high road -from Okehampton to Tavistock. The highest point is called Gibbet Hill, -but tradition is silent as to who hung there. - -In the Mary Tavy register occurs this entry:-- - - "1691, March 12, William Warden, a currier, was whipped by the - Parson and Churchwardens of Whitchurch, and ordered to be passed - on as a wandering rogue from parish to parish, by the officers - therein, in 26 days to his native place, Cheshunt in Hertfordshire, - and as the Churchwardens were conveying him on horseback over Black - Down, he died on the back of the horse, and was buried the same - night." - -The parson of Whitchurch was a Mr. Polwhele, who was also justice of -peace. - -Here is another curious entry in the same book of registers:-- - - "1756, Sept. 12, Robert Elford, was baptized, the child of Susanna - Elford by her sister's husband, to whom she was married with the - consent of her sister, the wife, who was at the wedding." - -Here the union is not with a _deceased_ wife's sister, but the living -wife's sister. There is no entry relative to this marriage, so that -the pair must have got their unhallowed union blessed in some remote -parish, where the relationship was not known. - -In 1760 William Creedy, sojourner, and Susanna Elford had their banns -called, but there is no entry of a marriage. - -Another entry in the same register book is suggestive of a scandal. - - "1627, Aug. 5, Baptized, Nicolas filius Mri. Johan. Cake jam senio - confecti." - -Mary Tavy church, picturesquely situated, not on the Tavy, but on a -little confluent, was barbarously renovated some years ago, but of late -much loving care has been bestowed upon the structure, and something -has been done to efface the mischief wrought by the architect who had -dealt with it previously. The new screen is remarkably good, and in -accordance with Devonshire work of the sixteenth century. The stained -glass is excellent. - -Peter Tavy church was disfigured rather later than Mary Tavy. It -possessed an interesting Tudor square pew, richly carved, and with -posts at the corners supporting heraldic beasts. This was demolished -at the so-called restoration. Some scraps have been preserved and -worked up to form a screen across the tower arch. All the modern work -is of the vulgarest description, in yellow deal. A portion of the -screen with saints painted on it is preserved within the altar rails. - -Peter Tavy Combe must on no account be neglected; it is a remarkably -picturesque valley. - -Another church that may be visited from Lydford is Bridestowe, -dedicated to S. Bridget, who had a sanctuary of refuge here, now called -the Sentry. The original church stood in a different position, and -contained the Norman arch now erected at the entrance to the church -avenue. It was turned into a church-house, then became ruinous and was -pulled down. The reason for the removal of the parish church in the -fifteenth century was probably because the old church was near the road -at a turn, so that there was not space available to enlarge it. - -This church has suffered from maltreatment by a late rector, who tore -down the old roodscreen, sawed it down the middle, and plastered the -tracery so treated against a deal dwarf screen, _inverted_, and against -a vestry door. To make matters worse, he boarded the entire interior -of the chancel with deal, varnished. It presented the appearance of a -cabin of a ship. This has now happily disappeared. It is greatly to be -desired that the screen should be restored. - -Second to the Dart only in beauty is the West Okement that comes -foaming down from the bogs about Cranmere through a fine ravine -between Yes Tor and Amicombe Hill. If the river be followed up from -Meldon Viaduct, a point is reached where it rushes over a barrier of -rocks fallen from Black Tor, and divides about an islet. But perhaps -the best way to see this valley is to ascend a combe, crossed at the -foot by the Lake Viaduct, and follow a track that sweeps round Sourton -Tor, and ascend to Bronescombe's Loaf and Cheese, where is a fine -cairn. On the slope between Sourton Tor and Bronescombe's Loaf lies a -large slab of granite through which a dyke of elvan has been thrust. In -this elvan have been cut the moulds for two bronze axe-heads. - -Walter Bronescombe was Bishop of Exeter between 1258 and 1280, and he -lies buried in the Cathedral under a fine canopied tomb. The effigy -is of his own date, and gives apparently a true portrait of a worthy -prelate. - -One day he was visiting this portion of his diocese, and had ventured -to ride over the moor from Widdecombe. He and his retinue had laboured -through bogs, and almost despaired of reaching the confines of the -wilderness. Moreover, on attaining Amicombe Hill they knew not which -way to take, for the bogs there are nasty; and his attendants dispersed -to seek a way. The Bishop was overcome with fatigue, and was starving. -He turned to his chaplain and said, "Our Master in the wilderness was -offered by Satan bread made of stones. If he were now to make the -same offer to me, I doubt if I should have the Christian fortitude to -refuse." - -"Ah!" sighed the chaplain, "and a hunch of cheese as well!" - -"Bread and cheese I could not hold out against," said the Bishop. - -Hardly had he spoken before a moorman rose up from a peat dyke and drew -nigh; he had a wallet on his back. - -"Master!" called the chaplain, "dost thou chance to have a snack of -meat with thee?" - -"Ay, verily," replied the moorman, and approached, hobbling, for he was -apparently lame. "I have with me bread and cheese, naught else." - -"Give it us, my son," said the Bishop; "I will well repay thee." - -"Nay," replied the stranger, "I be no son of thine. And I ask no reward -save that thou descend from thy steed, doff thy cap, and salute me with -the title of master." - -"I will do that," said the Bishop, and alighted. - -Then the strange man produced a loaf and a large piece of cheese. - -Now, the Bishop was about to take off his cap and address the moorman -in a tone of entreaty and by the title of master, when the chaplain -perceived that the man had one foot like that of a goat. He instantly -cried out to God, and signified what he saw to the prelate, who, in -holy horror, made the sign of the cross, and lo! the moorman vanished, -and the bread and cheese remained transformed to stone. - -Do you doubt it? Go and see. Look on the Ordnance Survey map and you -will find Bread and Cheese marked there. Only Bronescombe's name has -been transformed to Brandescombe. - -[Illustration: HARE TOR] - -But the Bishop, to make atonement, and to ease his conscience for -having so nearly yielded to temptation, spent great sums on the -rebuilding of his cathedral. - -From the Bread and Cheese, a walk along the brow of the hill by the -Slipper Stones--so called because there Bishop Bronescombe dropped one -of the coverings of his feet--shows the valley to perfection, with -Black Tor rising above it, and Yes Tor towering high aloft in the rear. -By the stream below is a stunted copse, a relic of the ancient arms of -forest that stole up the ravines far into the moor, but of which now -hardly any remain. At Stinga Tor, further up, is a fine logan rock. The -visitor may return by the peat-works and the noble pile of Lynx Tor to -the valley of the Lyd. - -An interesting excursion may be made to Tavy Cleave. The course to be -adopted, so as to see it in perfection, is to go on to the moor from -the Dartmoor Inn. Here in its proper season, August to October, the -field gentian, with its dull purple flowers, may be gathered. A descent -to the Lyd by some old mine works opens a fine view of Lynx, Hare, and -Doe Tors, and the little farm named after the latter lies before one, -solitary in the midst of heather and swamp. Stepping-stones allow the -river to be crossed, and the farm is reached and passed, and Hare Tor -is aimed at. Old stream-works and prospecting pits abound. By leaving -the summit of Hare Tor on the left, a cluster of rocks rising above -the grass and heather must be struck at, and suddenly before the eye -opens the ravine of the Tavy, that foams far below over a bar of red -granite. - -Between the rocks and Ger Tor is a cluster of hut circles in tolerable -preservation, and a very interesting collection is found on a spur of -Stannon, on the further side of the Tavy. - -Lynx Tor may be ascended from Lydford. The summit is occupied by a fine -mass of rocks, and commands a superb view as far as the Atlantic in one -direction, and Plymouth Sound and the Channel in another. - -Near Lynx Tor are the peat-works already mentioned. Various attempts -have been made to find for the peat a use that may prove commercially -successful, but hitherto these attempts have not been satisfactory to -investors. The bogs are hungry, and swallow up a good deal of money. - -Hence a short diversion will take to the logan rock on Stinga Tor. - -[Illustration: INSCRIPTION ON SOURTON CROSS.] - -On Sourton Down stands an old granite cross that bears an inscription -only to be read when the sun is setting and casts its rays aslant over -the face. Apparently the monolith was shaped into a Latin cross at some -period later than the inscription, which belongs to the sixth century. -It is headed by the early Christian symbol of the ☧ but badly made. The -same symbol occurs on the inscribed stone at Southill. The granite is -of a very coarse texture, especially where the figure occurs and at the -beginning of the name. - -As for every person, so for every place, a time comes if waited for. -It has come for Lydford, burnt by Danes, deserted in the Middle Ages, -abandoned by its rectors. - - "At six o'clock I came along - And prayed for those that were to stay - Within a place so arrant; - Wide and ope the winds so roar, - By God's grace I'll come there no more - Till forc'd by a tin warrant." - -So wrote Browne in the seventeenth century. - -But the time has arrived for Lydford at last, and now in summer it is -hardly possible for a visitor to obtain lodgings, unless he has written -to secure them months before, so greatly does Lydford attract to it -those who have eyes to see beautiful scenery and hearts to appreciate -it. - -FOOTNOTES: - -[15] _Hist. Eccl._, iii. c. 23. - - - - -CHAPTER X. - -BELSTONE - - Derivation of the name--Phoenicians--Taw Marsh--Artillery - practice on the moors--Encroachments--The East Okement--Pounds - and hut circles--Stone rows on Cosdon--Cranmere - Pool--Sticklepath--Christian inscribed stones--South - Zeal--West Wyke--North Wyke--The wicked Richard Weekes--South - Tawton church--The West Okement--Yes Tor--Camp and Roman - road--Throwleigh. - - -A good deal of pseudo-antiquarianism has been expressed relative to -the name of a little moorland parish two and a half miles uphill from -Okehampton. It is now called Belstone, and it has been surmised that -here stood a stone dedicated to Baal, whose worship had been introduced -by the Phœnicians. - -I must really quote one of the finest specimens of "exquisite fooling" -I have ever come across. It appeared as a sub-article in the _Western -Morning News_ in 1890. - -It was headed:-- - - "PHŒNICIANS IN DART VALE. - - "[SPECIAL.] - - "Much interest, not only local but world-wide, was aroused a - few months back by the announcement of a Phœnician survival at - Ipplepen, in the person of Mr. Thomas Ballhatchet, descendant of - the priest of the Sun Temple there, and until lately owner of the - plot of land called Baalford, under Baal Tor, a priestly patrimony, - which had come down to him through some eighteen or twenty - centuries, together with his name and his marked Levantine features - and characteristics. - - "Such survivals are not infrequent among Orientals, as, for - instance, the Cohens, Aaron's family, the Bengal Brahmins, the - Rechabites, etc. Ballhatchet's sole peculiarity is his holding - on to the land, in which, however, he is kept in countenance in - England by the Purkises, who drew the body of Rufus to its grave in - Winchester Cathedral on 2nd August, 1100. - - "Further quiet research makes it clear beyond all manner of doubt - that the Phœnician tin colony, domiciled at Totnes, and whose Sun - Temple was located on their eastern sky-line at Ipplepen, have - left extensive traces of their presence all the way down the Dart - in the identical and unaltered names of places, a test of which - the Palestine Exploration Committee record the priceless value. - To give but one instance. The beautiful light-refracting diadem - which makes Belliver[16] the most striking of all her sister tors, - received from the Semite its consecration as 'Baallivyah,' Baal, - crown of beauty or glory. The word itself occurs in Proverbs i. - 9 and iv. 9, and as both Septuagint and Vulgate so render it, it - must have borne that meaning in the third century B.C., and in the - third century A.D., and, of course, in the interval. There are - many other instances quite as close, and any student of the new - and fascinating science of Assyriology will continually add to - them. A portrait of Ballhatchet, with some notes by an eminent and - well-known Semitic scholar, may probably appear in the _Graphic_; - in the meantime it may be pointed out that his name is typically - Babylonian. Not only is there at Pantellaria the gravestone of one - Baal-yachi (Baal's beloved), but no less than three clay tablets - from the Sun Temple of Sippara (the Bible Sepharvaim) bear the - names of Baal-achi-iddin, Baal-achi-utsur, and Baal-achi-irriba. - This last, which bears date 22 Sivan (in the eleventh year of - Nabonidus, B.C. 540), just two years before the catastrophe which - followed on Belshazzar's feast, is in the possession of Mr. W. G. - Thorpe, F.S.A. It is in beautiful condition, and records a loan by - one Dinkiva to Baal-achi-irriba (Baal will protect his brother), on - the security of some slaves." - -One really wonders in reading such nonsense as this whether modern -education is worth much, when a man could write such trash and an -editor could admit it into his paper. - -Ballhatchet means the hatchet or gate to a ball, _i.e._ a mine. - -As it happens, there is not a particle of trustworthy evidence that -the Phœnicians ever traded directly with Cornwall and Devon. The -intermediary traders were the Veneti of what is now Vannes, and the tin -trade was carried through Gaul to Marseilles, as is shown by traces -left on the old trade route. In the next place, there is no evidence -that our British or Ivernian ancestors ever heard the name of Baal. And -finally, Belstone is not named after a stone at all, to return to the -point whence we started. In Domesday it is Bellestham, or the _ham_, -meadow of Belles or Bioll, a Saxon name that remains among us as Beale. - -Belstone is situated at the lip of Taw Marsh, once a fine lake, with -Steeperton Tor rising above it at the head. Partly because the river -has fretted a way through the joints of the granite, forming Belstone -Cleave, and partly on account of the silting up of the lake-bed with -rubble brought down by the several streams that here unite, the -lake-bed is now filled up with sand and gravel and swamp. - -The military authorities coveted this tract for artillery practice. -They set up butts, but woman intervened. A very determined lady marched -up to them, although the warning red flags fluttered, and planted -herself in front of a target, took out of her reticule a packet of -ham sandwiches and a flask of cold tea, and declared her intention of -spending the day there. In vain did the military protest, entreat, -remonstrate; she proceeded to nibble at her sandwiches and defied them -to fire. - -She carried the day. - -Since then Taw Marsh has been the playfield of many children, and has -been rambled over by visitors, but the artillery have abstained from -practising on it. - -The fact is that the military have made the moors about Okehampton -impossible for the visitor, and those who desire to rove over it in -pursuit of health have been driven from Okehampton to Belstone, and -object to be moved on further. - -What with the camp at Okehampton and the prisons at Princetown and -encroachments on every side, the amount of moorland left open to the -rambler is greatly curtailed. - -The privation is not only felt by the visitor but also by the farmer, -who has a right to send out his sheep and cattle upon the moor in -summer, and in times of drought looks to this upland as his salvation. - -A comparison between what the Forest of Dartmoor was at the beginning -of this century and its condition to-day shows how inclosures have -crept on--nay, not crept, increased by leaps; and what is true of -the forest is true also of the commons that surround it. Add to the -inclosed land the large tract swept by the guns at Okehampton, and the -case becomes more grave still. The public have been robbed of their -rights wholesale. Not a word can now be raised against the military. -The Transvaal War has brought home to us the need we have to become -expert marksmen, and the Forest of Dartmoor seems to offer itself for -the purpose of a practising-ground. Nevertheless, one accepts the -situation with a sigh. - -There is a charming excursion up the East Okement from the railway -bridge to Cullever Steps, passing on the way a little fall of the -river, not remarkable for height but for picturesqueness. There is no -path, and the excursion demands exertion. - -On Belstone Common is a stone circle and near it a fallen menhir. The -circle is merely one of stones that formed a hut, which had upright -slabs lining it within as well as girdling without. - -Under Belstone Tor, among the "old men's workings" by the Taw, an -experienced eye will detect a blowing-house, but it is much dilapidated. - -The Taw and an affluent pour down from the central bog, one on each -side of Steeperton Tor, and from the east the small brook dances into -Taw Marsh. Beside the latter, on the slopes, are numerous pounds and -hut circles, and near its source is a stone circle, of which the best -uprights have been carried off for gateposts. South of it is a menhir, -the Whitmoor Stone, leaning, as the ground about it is marshy. Cosdon, -or, as it is incorrectly called occasionally, Cawsand, is a huge -rounded hill ascending to 1,785 feet, crowned with dilapidated cairns -and ruined kistvaens. East of the summit, near the turf track from -South Zeal, is a cairn that contained three kistvaens. One is perfect, -one wrecked, and of the third only the space remained and indications -whence the slabs had been torn. From these three kistvaens in one -mound start three stone rows that are broken through by the track, but -can be traced beyond it for some way; they have been robbed, as the -householders of South Zeal have been of late freely inclosing large -tracts of their common, and have taken the stones for the construction -of walls about their fields. - -By ascending the Taw, Cranmere Pool may be reached, but is only so far -worth the visit that the walk to and from it gives a good insight into -the nature of the central bogs. The pool is hardly more than a puddle. -Belstone church is not interesting; it was rebuilt, all but the tower, -in 1881. - -[Illustration: INSCRIBED STONE, STICKLEPATH.] - -Under Cosdon nestles Sticklepath. "Stickle" is the Devonshire for -steep. Here is a holy well near an inscribed stone. A second inscribed -stone is by the roadside to Okehampton. At Belstone are two more, -but none of these bear names. They are Christian monuments of the -sixth, or at latest seventh, century. At Sticklepath was a curious -old cob thatched chapel, but this has been unnecessarily destroyed, -and a modern erection of no interest or beauty has taken its place. -South Zeal is an interesting little village, through which ran the -old high-road, but which is now left on one side. For long it was a -treasury of interesting old houses; many have disappeared recently, -but the "Oxenham Arms," the seat of the Burgoyne family, remains, -the fine old village cross, and the chapel, of granite. Above South -Zeal, on West Wyke Moor, is the house that belonged to the Battishill -family, with a ruined cross near it. The house has been much spoiled -of late; the stone mullions have been removed from the hall window, -but the ancient gateway, surmounted by the Battishill arms, and with -the date 1656, remains untouched. It is curious, because one would -hardly have expected a country gentleman to have erected an embattled -gateway during the Commonwealth, and in the style of the early Tudor -kings. In the hall window are the arms of Battishill, impaled with a -coat that cannot be determined as belonging to any known family. In -the same parish of South Tawton is another old house, North Wyke, that -belonged to the Wyke or Weekes family. The ancient gatehouse and chapel -are interesting; they belong, in my opinion, to the sixteenth century, -and to the latter part of the same. The chapel has a corbel, the arms -of Wykes and Gifford; and John Wyke of North Wyke, who was buried in -1591, married the daughter of Sir Roger Gifford. The gateway can hardly -be earlier. The house was built by the same man, but underwent great -alteration in the fashion introduced from France by Charles II., when -the rooms were raised and the windows altered into _croisées_. - -Touching this house a tale is told. - -About the year 1660 there was a John Weekes of North Wyke, who was a -bachelor, and lived in the old mansion along with his sister Katherine, -who was unmarried, and his mother. He was a man of weak intellect, and -was consumptive. John came of age in 1658. In the event of his death -without will his heir would be his uncle John, his father's brother, -who died in 1680. This latter John had a son Roger. - -Now it happened that there was a great scamp of the name of Richard -Weekes, born at Hatherleigh, son of Francis Weekes of Honeychurch, -possibly a remote connection, but not demonstrably so. - -He was a gentleman pensioner of Charles II., but spent most of his -leisure time in the Fleet Prison. One day this rascal came down from -London, it is probable at the suggestion of consumptive John's mother -and sister, who could not be sure what he, with his feeble mind, might -do with the estate. - -Richard ingratiated himself into the favour of John, and urged him not -to risk his health in so bleak and exposed a spot as South Tawton, -but to seek a warmer climate, and he invited him to Plymouth. The -unsuspicious John assented. - -When John was cajoled to Plymouth, Richard surrounded him with -creatures of his own, a doctor and two lawyers, who, with Richard's -assistance, coaxed, bullied, and persuaded the sickly John into -making a deed of settlement of all his estate in favour of Richard. -The unhappy man did this, but with a curious proviso enabling him to -revoke his act by word as well as by deed. Richard had now completely -outwitted John's mother and sister, who had been conspirators with him, -on the understanding that they were to share the spoils. - -[Illustration: NORTH WYKE GATE HOUSE] - -After a while, when it was clear that John was dying, Richard hurried -him back to North Wyke, where he expired on Saturday, September 21st, -1661, but not till he had been induced by his mother and sister to -revoke his will verbally, for they had now learned how that the wily -Richard had got the better of them. - -Next day, Sunday, Richard Weekes arrived, booted and spurred, at the -head of a party of men he had collected. With sword drawn he burst -into the house, and when Katherine Weekes attempted to bar the way he -knocked her down. Then he drove the widow mother into a closet and -locked the door on her. He now cleared the house of the servants, and -proceeded to take possession of all the documents and valuables that -the mansion contained. Poor John's body lay upstairs: no regard was -paid to that, and, saying "I am come to do the devil's work and my -own," he drove Katherine out of the house, and she was constrained -to take refuge for the night in a neighbouring farm. The widow, Mary -Weekes, was then liberated and also turned out of doors. - -The heir-at-law was the uncle John, against whom Mary and Katherine -Weekes had conspired with the scoundrel Richard. This latter now sought -Uncle John, made him drunk, and got him to sign a deed, when tipsy, -conveying all his rights to the said Richard for the sum of fifty -pounds paid down. Richard was now in possession. The widow thereupon -brought an action in Chancery against Richard. The lawyers saw the -opportunity. Here was a noble estate that might be sucked dry, and they -descended on it with this end in view. - -The lawsuit was protracted for forty years, from 1661 to 1701, when the -heirs of the wicked Richard retained the property, but it had been so -exhausted and burdened, that the suit was abandoned undecided. Richard -Weekes died in 1670. - -The plan resorted to in order to keep possession after the forcible -entry was this. The son of Richard Weekes had married a Northmore of -Well, in South Tawton, and the Northmores bought up all the debts -on the estate and got possession of the mortgages, and worked them -persistently and successfully against the rightful claimants till, -worried and wearied out, and with empty purses, they were unable -further to pursue the claim. In 1713 the estate was sold by John -Weekes, the grandson of Richard, who had also married a Northmore, -and North Wyke passed away from the family after having been in its -possession since the reign of Henry III. - -It was broken up into two farms, and the house divided into two. -Recently it has, however, been repurchased by a descendant of the -original possessors, in a female line, the Rev. W. Wykes Finch, and the -house is being restored in excellent taste. - -In South Tawton church is a fine monument of the common ancestor, John -Wyke, 1591. The church has been renovated, monumental slabs sawn in -half and used to line the drain round the church externally. With the -exception of the sun-dial, bearing the motto from Juvenal, "_Obrepet -non intellecta senectus_," and a Burgoyne monument and that of "Warrior -Wyke," the church does not present much of interest at present, -whatever it may have done before it fell into the hands of spoilers. - -The West Okement comes down from the central bogs through a fine -"Valley of Rocks," dividing and forming an islet overgrown with wild -rose and whortleberry. Above it stands Shilstone Tor, telling by its -name that on it at one time stood a cromlech, which has been destroyed. -This valley furnishes many studies for the artist. - -Hence Yes Tor may be ascended, for long held to be the highest -elevation on Dartmoor. The highest peak it is, rising to 2,030 feet, -but it is over-topped by the rounded High Willhayes, 2,039 feet. -Between Yes Tor and Mill Tor is a rather nasty bog. Mill Tor consists -of a peculiar granite; the feldspar is so pure that speculators have -been induced to attempt to make soda-water bottles out of it, by fusing -without the adjunct of other materials. - -On the extreme edge of a ridge above the East Okement, opposite -Belstone Tor, is a camp, much injured by the plough. Apparently from it -leads a paved raised causeway or road, presumed to be Roman; but why -such a road should have been made from a precipitous headland above the -Okement, and whither it led, are shrouded in mystery. Near this road, -in 1897, was found a hoard of the smallest Roman coins, probably the -store of some beggar, which he concealed under a rock, and died without -being able to recover it. All pertained to the years between A.D. 320 -and 330. - -Of Okehampton I will say nothing here, as the place has had a chapter -devoted to it in my _Book of the West_--too much space, some might -say, for in itself it is devoid of interest. Its charm is in the -scenery round, and its great attraction during the summer is the -artillery camp on the down above Okehampton Park. On the other side -of Belstone, Throwleigh may be visited, where there are numerous -prehistoric relics. There were many others, but they have been -destroyed, amongst others a fine inclosure like Grimspound, but more -perfect, as the inclosing wall was not ruinous throughout, and the -stones were laid in courses. The pulpit of Throwleigh church is made up -of old bench-ends. - -FOOTNOTES: - -[16] Belliver is a modern contraction of Bellaford, as Redever is -Redaford. - - - - -CHAPTER XI. - -CHAGFORD - - "Chagford in the dirt"--The making of Chagford--The old - clerk--The church--Tincombe Lane--Chagford Common--Flint - finds--Scaur Hill circle--Stone rows--The Tolmen--The Teign - river--Camps on it--Drewsteignton cromlech--Gidleigh--Old - farmhouses--Fernworthy--The Grey Wethers--Teignhead - House--Browne's House--Story about it--Grimspound--Birch Tor - stone rows--Chaw Gully--The Webburn. - - -Chagford is in Domesday written Chageford, and this is the local -pronunciation of the name at the present day. The natives say -"Chageford in the dirt--O good Lord!" - -But Chagford has had the ability and promptitude to get out of the -dirt and prove itself to be anything but a stick-in-the-mud place. -It is with places as with people, some have good luck fall to them, -others make their fortunes for themselves. Okehampton belongs to -the former class, Chagford to the latter. It owes almost everything -to a late rector, who, resolved on pushing the place, invited down -magazine editors and professional _littérateurs_, entertained them, -drove them about, and was rewarded by articles appearing in journals -and serials, be-lauding Chagford for its salubrious climate, its -incomparable scenery, its ready hospitality, its rural sweetness, and -its archæological interest. - -Whither the writers pointed with their pens, thither the public ran, -and Chagford was made. It has now every appliance suitable--pure water, -electric lighting, telephone, a bicycle shop, and doctors to patch -broken heads and set broken limbs of those upset from the "bikes." - -Chagford is undoubtedly a picturesque and pleasant spot. It is situated -near Dartmoor, and is sheltered from the cold and from the rainy drift -that comes from the south-west. The lodging-house keepers know how to -make visitors comfortable, and to charge for so doing. The church has -been restored, coaches run to bring visitors, and the roads and lanes -have been widened. - -I recall the church before modern ideas had penetrated to Chagford. At -that time the clerk, who also led the orchestra, gave out the psalm -from his seat under the reading-desk, then, _whistling_ the tune, he -marched slowly down the nave, ascended to the gallery with leisure, and -the performance began. - -The church, dedicated to S. Michael, was rebuilt in the middle of -the fifteenth century, when the Gorges family owned much land in -the parish. Their cognisance, the _whirlpool_, a canting cognisance -(_gurges_), appears in the bosses of the roof. It contains two -monuments of some importance: one is a handsome stone altar tomb, -with a canopy supported on columns, in memory of Sir John Whiddon, of -Whiddon Park, Judge of Queen's Bench, who died in 1575; the other is to -commemorate John Prouze, who died in 1664. - -The Three Crowns Inn, opposite the church, is a picturesque building -of the seventeenth century. Chagford was one of the Stannary towns, but -no remains of the court-house exist. - -On Mattadon, above the town, stands a rude early cross of granite. - -The ascent to the moor by Tincombe Lane, as I remember it half a -century ago, was no better than a watercourse, strewn with boulders, -to be scrambled up or down at the risk of dislocation of the ankle. It -then well merited the descriptive lines:-- - - "Tincombe Lane is all uphill - Or downhill, as you take it; - You tumble up, and crack your crown, - Or tumble down and break it. - - "Tincombe Lane is crook'd and straight, - Here pothook, there as arrow, - 'Tis smooth to foot, 'tis full of rut, - 'Tis wide, and then, 'tis narrow. - - "Tincombe Lane is just like life, - From when you leave your mother; - 'Tis sometimes this, 'tis sometimes that, - 'Tis one thing or the other." - -Now all is changed. A steam-roller goes up and down Tincombe Lane, -the angles have been rounded, the precipitous portions made easy, the -ruts filled up. And life likewise is now made easy for the rising -generation--possibly too easy. Ruggedness had a charm of its own, and -bred vigour of constitution and moral physique. - -Chagford having lost, by death, the whistling clerk, started a blind -organist. Now, also, he is gone. Every peculiarity is being crushed -out of modern life by the steam-roller, civilisation. - -Chagford Common, as I recall it, half a century ago, was strewn thick -with hut circles. One ascended to it by Tincombe Lane and came into a -prehistoric world, a Pompeii of a past before Rome was. It was dense -with hut circles, pounds, and every sort of relic of the ancient -inhabitants of the moor. But inclosures have been made, and but a -very few relics of the aboriginal settlement remain. One of the most -curious, the "Roundy Pound," only escaped through urgent remonstrance -made to spare it. The road carried over the common annually eats up the -remains of old, as the road-menders take away the stones from the hut -circles to metal the highway. - -At Batworthy, one of the inclosures, there must have been anciently a -manufactory of flint tools and weapons. Countless spalls of flint and a -fine collection of fabricated weapons and tools have been found there, -and the collection has been presented from this place to the Plymouth -Municipal Museum. - -On Gidleigh Common, beside the Teign, opposite Batworthy, is Scaur Hill -circle. It consists of thirty-two stones, at present, of which eight -are prostrate. The highest of the stones is a little over six feet. The -circle is ninety-two feet in diameter. Apparently leading towards this -ring, on the Chagford side of the river, was a very long double row of -stones, with a second double row or avenue branching from it. - -[Illustration: PLAN OF STONE ROWS NEAR CAISTOR ROCK. - -(Taken in 1851. Scale ⅟₁₂ in. to 10 feet.) - -A. The Longstone. Hence in a northerly direction the row continued for -520 feet. B. Cairn. C. Cairn with ring of stones.] - -There was a third double row, which started from the Longstone, near -Caistor Rock. This Longstone is still standing, but the stone rows -have been shamefully robbed by a farmer to build his newtake walls. I -give plan of the rows as taken by me in 1851. There was another line -of stones leading from the Three Boys to the Longstone. The Three Boys -were three big stones that have disappeared, and the line from them has -also been obliterated. This portion I unfortunately did not plan in -1851. - -In the valley of the Teign is the so-called tolmen, a natural -formation. In the same slab or stone may be seen the beginnings of a -second hole. But it is curious as showing that the river at one time -rolled at a higher elevation than at present. The scenes on a ramble -up the river from Chagford to Holy Street Mill and the mill itself are -familiar to many, as having furnished subjects for pictures in the -Royal Academy. - -The river Teign below Whiddon Park winds in and out among wooded -precipitous hills to where the Exeter road descends in zigzags to -Fingle Bridge, passing on its way Cranbrook Castle, a stone camp. -The _brook_ in the name is a corruption of _burgh_ or _burrh_. On -the opposite side of the valley, frowning across at Cranbrook, is -Prestonbury Camp. - -With advantage the river may be followed down for several miles to -Dunsford Bridge, and the opportunity is then obtained of gathering -white heath which grows on the slopes. At Shilstone in Drewsteignton -is the only cromlech in the county. It is a fine monument. A few years -ago it fell, but has been re-erected in its old position. After recent -ploughing flints may be picked up in the field where it stands. - -Gidleigh merits a visit, the road to it presenting many delicious -peeps. Gidleigh possesses the ruin of a doll castle that once -belonged to the Prouze family. The church contains a screen in good -preservation. In the parish of Throwleigh is the interesting manor -house Wanson, of which I have told a story in my _Old English Home_. - -But perhaps more interesting than manor houses are the old farm -buildings in the neighbourhood of Chagford, rapidly disappearing -or being altered out of recognition to adapt them to serve as -lodging-houses to receive visitors. - -One such adaptation may be noticed in Tincombe Lane. An old house -is passed, where the ancient mullioned windows have been heightened -and the floors and ceilings raised, to the lasting injury of the -house itself, considered from a picturesque point of view. A passable -road leads up the South Teign to Fernworthy, a substantial farm in -a singularly lone spot. But there was another farm even more lonely -at Assacombe, where a lateral stream descends to the Teign, but it -has been abandoned, and consists now of ruin only. Near it is a -well-preserved double stone row leading from a cairn and finishing at a -blocking-stone. - -At Fernworthy itself is a circle of upright stones and the remains of -several stone rows sorely mutilated for the construction of a newtake -wall. In a tumulus near these monuments was found an urn containing -ashes, with a flint knife, and another, very small, of bronze or -copper, and a large polished button of horn. On Chagford Common, near -Watern Hill, is a double pair of rows leading from a cairn and a small -menhir, to blocking-stones. Although the stones of which they are -composed are small, the rows are remarkably well preserved. - -It will repay the visitor to continue his ascent of the South Teign to -the Grey Wethers, two circles of stone, of which, however, many are -fallen. Here exploration, such as has been conducted at Fernworthy -circle, shows that the floors are deep in ashes, and this leads to the -surmise that the circles were the crematories of the dead who lie in -the cairns and tunnels in the neighbourhood. - -Near the source of the North Teign is Teignhead House, one of the most -solitary spots in England. A shepherd resides there, but it is not -for many winters that a woman can endure the isolation and retain her -reason. - -And yet there remain the ruins of a house in a still more lonely -situation. The moorman points it out as Browne's House. - -Although, judging from the dilapidation and the lichened condition of -the stones, one could have supposed that this edifice was of great -antiquity, yet it is not so by any means. There are those still alive -who remember when the chimney fell; and who had heard of both the -building, the occupying, and the destruction of Browne's House. Few -indeed have seen the ruin, for it is in so remote a spot that only the -shepherd, the rush-cutter, and the occasional fisherman approach it. - -On the Ordnance Survey, faint indications of inclosures are given on -the spot, but no name is attached. Yet every moorman, if asked what -these ruins are, will tell you that it is the wreck of Browne's House. - -[Illustration: GRIMSPOUND, AND ENTRANCE] - -The story told me relative to this solitary spot was that Browne, an -ungainly, morose man, had a pretty young wife, of whom he was jealous. -He built this place in which to live with her away from the society -of men, and the danger such proximity might bring to his connubial -happiness. - -Grimspound will be visited from Chagford. The way to it after leaving -the high-road from Post Bridge to Moreton, which it crosses, traverses -Shapleigh Common, where are numerous inclosures in connection with hut -circles. One of these is very large, and constructed of huge slabs of -granite. Several of these larger circles were occupied only in summer, -it would appear, as there are scanty traces of fire in them, whereas -attached to them are small huts, the floors of which are thickly strewn -with charcoal and fragments of pottery, and presumably the cooking was -done in these latter. - -Grimspound is an irregular circular inclosure containing four acres -within the boundary wall. It is situated on the slope of a hill, and -the position is obviously ill-adapted for defence, as it is commanded -by higher ground on three sides. A little stream, the Grimslake, flows -through the inclosure. - -The wall itself is double-faced, and the two faces have fallen -inwards. This shows that the core could not have been of turf, as in -that case shrubs would have rooted themselves therein and have thrust -the walls outward. In several places openings appear from the inside -of the pound into the space between the walls. It is possible that -this intermediate hollow was used for stores, and that the walls were -tied together with timber, and surmounted with a parapet of turf. A -trackway from Manaton to Headland Warren runs through the pound, and -the wall has been broken through for this purpose in two places; but -the original entrance to the S.S.E. is perfect, and is paved, and in -it three steps have been formed, as the descent was into the pound, -another token that the inclosure was not intended as a fortress. - -The entrance is 8 feet wide, and no outwork was constructed to protect -it from being "rushed" by an enemy. The walls of the inclosure here and -throughout are from 10 feet to 12 feet thick, and stone does not exist -in any part which could raise them above 5 feet 6 inches in height. -Each wall is 3 feet 6 inches wide at base, and was 3 feet at top. On -the west side is a huge slab set on edge, measuring 10 feet by 5 feet, -and it is from 9 inches to 1 foot in thickness, and weighs from 3 to 4 -tons. Other stones, laid in courses, if not so long, are not of less -weight. Such a wall as that inclosing Grimspound would cost, with -modern appliances and with horse power for drawing the stone, three -guineas per land yard, and a land yard would engage four men for a week. - -When, moreover, we consider that the circumference of the wall measures -over 1,500 feet, it becomes obvious that a large body of men must have -been engaged in the erection. - -[Illustration: GRIMSPOUND] - -Presumably Grimspound was not a fortified village, and was merely a -pound into which cattle were driven for protection against wolves. It -is just possible, but hardly probable, that it was the place of refuge -for the scattered population on Hookner and Hamildon. - -Within the pound are twenty-four hut circles; most have been explored, -and one (No. III. on the plan) has been partially restored, and is -inclosed within a railing. The object of this restoration was to -discover, by piling up the stones found in and about the wall of the -hut, what its height had been originally, and this was determined to -have been four feet. - -Unless wantonly injured by trippers, it will serve to exhibit what the -structure of these habitations was, with its paved platform as bed, and -its hearth and vestibule. - -A double hut (XVIII., XIX.) is interesting because a tall stone was -erected beside it, as though to indicate it as being the residence of -some man of importance, maybe the sheik of the community. In hut XVI. -is a double bed, one couch divided from the other by upright stones. - -In several of the huts, in the floor, are laid flat stones with -a smooth surface, and it was supposed that these served as -chopping-stones, but further explorations have led to the belief that -they were employed to sustain a central pole that upheld the roof. - -On the _col_ above Grimspound, near the source of Grimslake, is a cairn -that contains a small kistvaen, and is surrounded by a circle of stones -set upright. - -[Illustration: PLAN OF HUT III., GRIMSPOUND.] - -Numerous cairns crown the heights. One immense tumulus, King's Barrow, -has at some unknown time been excavated with great labour. - -The great central trackway crosses Hamildon, and is very perfect where -it does so. It had apparently no connection whatever with Grimspound. - -From Grimspound may be seen, on the brow of the ridge connecting -Birch Tor and Challacombe Down, a series of stone rows. They lead to -a blocking-stone, or menhir, at the south extremity. The northern end -has been destroyed by tin-streamers, whose works in Chaw Gully are -interesting, for mining has been combined with streaming. The rock has -been cut through, but no signs of the use of iron wedges for splitting -the granite can here be discovered. It is traditionally told that what -was done was to cut a groove in the granite, fill that with quicklime, -and pour water on it. The lime in swelling split the rock. Ravens nest -here; and I have seen rock doves and the pair of ravens nesting almost -side by side. - -Below is the Webburn, the stream turned up by tinners. There one mine -continues in activity--the "Golden Dagger." Above is Vitifer, where -fortunes have been made--and lost; mostly the latter by investors, -mainly the former by the "captains" and promoters. - -[Illustration: NEAR MANATON] - - - - -CHAPTER XII. - -MANATON - - Beauty of the site--The church--Destruction of the cross--Lustleigh - Cleave--North Bovey--Lustleigh church--Prouze tombs--The - sacrifice of a cat--Bishop Stapeldon's stone--Becka fall--The - eastern side of the moor--Hound Tor--The sycamore--Hey - Tor--Camp or pound--Rippon Tor--Foale's Arrishes--Finger-marks - on pottery--Salubrity of Dartmoor--Settlers--Widdecombe - in October--The church--Thunderstorm--"Lady" Darke--Old - farmhouses--The Song of "Widdecombe Fair." - - -The position of Manaton is one of remarkable beauty, between Lustleigh -Cleave and the ridge on which stands Bowerman's Nose, and which swells -up to Hound Tor. - -The church is dedicated to S. Winefred, the Welsh martyr maid, and -has its fine screen carefully restored. It formerly possessed a -singular feature, which the "restoring" architect destroyed, because -singular. This was a small window in the east wall opening from the -outside, _under_ the altar. Perhaps there were relics of S. Winefred -kept beneath the altar, and through this _fenestrella confessionis_ -the devotees could touch them. But, indeed, the destroyer has been at -Manaton and effaced more than this window. On the tor that commands the -village were formerly many prehistoric monuments. The farm Langstone -by its name proclaims that on it was a menhir. In the churchyard was -a fine granite cross. A former rector, the Rev. C. Carwithen, wantonly -destroyed it in the night. The people had been wont at a funeral to -carry the corpse the way of the sun thrice round the cross before -interment. He preached against the custom ineffectually, so he secretly -smashed the cross. There are two logan rocks within easy reach--the -Whooping Stone on Easdon, and the Nutcracker in Lustleigh Cleave. - -This cleave is very picturesque. "Cleave" properly is a local softening -of the word "cliff," and applies to the rocks, but in common use it has -come incorrectly to be applied to the valley below the crags. Through -the stone-strewn trough of the vale the sparkling Bovey finds its way -with some difficulty, diving under the boulders at Horsham Steps, and -running unseen for some considerable distance, only proclaiming its -presence by its murmurs and whispers. - -That there was some fighting done across this valley is probable, -because there are camps on both sides. - -In honourable contrast with Mr. Carwithen stands Mr. Jones, the curate -of North Bovey, who fished the old village cross out of the brook, -where it had lain since the iconoclastic period of the Civil Wars, and -re-erected it in 1829. - -North Bovey church, pleasantly situated, possesses a screen much -mutilated, but capable of restoration. Far superior to it in -preservation is that of Lustleigh, which is of the same character as -that of Bridford, perhaps post-Reformation, and contains a series of -figures in the lower compartments representing clergy in their caps -and surplices and "liripipets," and not saints. There is some old glass -in the church, in one window a representation of S. Margaret. There are -monumental effigies in the church of the Prouze family. One of these -is of Sir William Prouze, to whom the manor of Lustleigh belonged. By -his will he directed that he should be buried with his ancestors at -Lustleigh; but he died at a distance, and was interred at Holbeton. -Some time after, the wishes of her father having come to the knowledge -of Lady Alice, the wife of Sir Roger Mules, Baron of Cadbury, and -finding that they had been disregarded, the dutiful daughter petitioned -Grandisson, Bishop of Exeter in 1329, that the remains might be removed -from Holbeton to Lustleigh, and the prayer was granted. - -Forming the sill of the south door is a long granite stone with -a Romano-British inscription, the reading of which has not been -satisfactorily made out. - -In the chancel may be noticed the stone brackets, perforated for the -cords employed for the suspension of the Lenten veil. - -A story associated with Lustleigh church has its parallels elsewhere. -After it had been built the devil threatened to destroy it, stained -glass and all, unless he were given a sacrifice. Now it happened that -a bumpkin was present in the churchyard with a pack of cards in his -pocket, and the Evil One immediately demanded him as his due; but the -man, with great presence of mind, pounced on a cat that was stalking -by and dashed out its brains against the wall of the porch. This -satisfied the powers of darkness, and the consecration of the church -followed. The story is a clumsy late cooking up of the old belief that -before a building could be occupied a life must be sacrificed to the -telluric deities. A horse, a dog, a sow--in this case a cat was offered -up. Echoes of the same are found everywhere.[17] Most Devonshire -churchyards were formerly supposed to be haunted by some animal or -other, which had been buried under the cornerstone. When S. Columba -took possession of Iona the question arose as to who was to die and be -buried so as to secure the place for ever to the community. One of his -monks, Oran by name, offered himself, and he was buried alive under the -foundations of the new abbey. - -The rectory house possesses its ancient hall open to the roof. In the -hedge between the church and station is the "Bishop's Stone," a large -block, bearing the arms of Bishop Stapeldon (1307-26), who was murdered -in the riots occasioned by Edward II. favouring the Despensers. He was -fallen on by the London mob in Cheapside, stripped, and beheaded by -them. - -Strewn about Lustleigh are numerous masses of granite, rounded, and -like loaves of bread. This is due to the weathering of the granite, -which is soft, but some, if not most, appear to have been carried to -where they lie by water. - -The stream Becka forms a fall into the valley of the Bovey, through -woods, but except in very rainy weather it is insignificant, and -hardly merits to be considered a waterfall; it is properly only a -water-trickle. - -[Illustration: HOUND TOR] - -The eastern flank of the moor is infinitely richer in vegetation than -the western. The whole of Dartmoor stands up as a wall against the -prevalent north-west and south-west winds that distort the trees on the -west side. Moreover, owing to the shelter thus furnished, and to the -disintegration of the granite trending in this direction so as to form -deep beds of gravel, the valleys and hillsides are clothed with rich -vegetation. Pines flourish. - -Hound Tor is a noble mass of rocks. It derives its name from the -shape assumed by the blocks on the summit, that have been weathered -into forms resembling the heads of dogs peering over the natural -battlements, and listening to hear the merry call of the horn. Below -it, on the Manaton side, nestles Hound Tor Farm, picturesquely enfolded -in a sycamore grove. - -The sycamore, by the way, is peculiarly the tree for Dartmoor and other -exposed situations. The beech cowers and turns from the blast, and it -divides so soon as its taproot touches rock; but the sycamore stands -up, indifferent to wind and rain, to which it opposes the broad green -leaves that it turns against the blast, and so shelters itself as with -scale armour. - -On Hound Tor is a circle of stones containing a kistvaen. - -The road that leads to Widdecombe and Ashburton ascends to Hound Tor; -but there is another road to Ashburton by Hey Tor that branches -off to the left before Hound Tor Farm is reached, and scrambles up -to Trendlebere Down, passing an almost destroyed stone row starting -from a cairn beside the highway. The road runs at a great elevation -(1,080 feet) for some miles. There is a pleasant and homely inn at Hey -Tor Vale, where the traveller may rest and gather strength to visit -Holwell Tor and Hey Tor Rocks. Holwell Tor was at one time surrounded -by a stone rampart, but quarrymen have sadly injured it, and it is -not now easy to decide whether the inclosure was merely a pound, like -Grimspound, or a stone camp, like Whit Tor. - -Hey Tor Rocks form two fine masses, and are unlike most of the moorland -tors, in that the granite is very consistent, and is not broken into -the usual layers of soft beds alternating with hard layers. The view -of the valley below Hey Tor and Grea Tor on one side, and the ridge of -Bone Hill on the other, is fine. - -The road, commanding to the east a vast stretch of the rich lowlands of -Devon, passes Saddle Tor and reaches Rippon Tor, where is a good logan -stone. Here are several cairns much mutilated by the road-makers. On -the further side of the road, by Pill Tor, are remains of an extensive -prehistoric settlement. Many huts and inclosures remain. The place -bears the name of Foale's Arrishes, from a man of that appellation who -spent his energies in converting the prehistoric inclosures into fields -for his own use, to the destruction of much that was interesting, and -to his own very dubitable advantage. The huts have, however, yielded -fine specimens of ornamented pottery. The decoration is here and there -made with a woman's finger-nail. Consider that! Some poor barbaric -squaw five thousand years ago fashioned the damp clay with her hands -and devised a rude pattern, which she incised with her nails. She is -long ago gone to dust, and her dust dispersed, but the impress of her -nails remains. - -[Illustration: HEY TOR ROCKS] - -[Illustration: FRAGMENT OF POTTERY.] - -This is much like what we are all doing, and doing -unconsciously--leaving little finger-touches on our creations, giving -shape to the minds and habits of our children and of those with whom -we are brought into contact, shaping, adorning, or disfiguring our -epoch, and the impressions we leave are indelible; they will in turn be -transmitted to ages to come. - -Some of the ornamentation, as in a specimen from Smallacombe Rocks, is -made with a twisted cord. The pottery is all hand-made, shaped without -the wheel, and very imperfectly burnt. It is not red, because there was -little iron in the clay. - -One large hut at Foale's Arrishes had a seat carried round part at -least of the interior, made of branches that were held from spreading -by sharp stones planted upright in the floor. The kitchen was on the -left side of the entrance in a subsidiary structure. - -It has, of late, become a thing not unusual for young fellows, if -suffering from delicacy of the lungs, to rent or buy a farm on -Dartmoor. No research after parasitic microbes thenceforth concerns -them. The fresh air, the constant exercise, the joyous existence on -the wild moor are fatal to tubercular bacteria. Rude health, buoyant -spirits, unflagging energy result from such treatment. - -It is, it must be admitted, surpassing hard to induce servants from -the "in-country" to take situations on Dartmoor. The air there is as -unsuited to them as to other microbes. But the settler lights his own -fires, cooks his own meals, makes his own bed; and, as one of them -assured me, his experience proved to him that a man can keep a hunter -at the same cost as he can a servant-maid: therefore, why be worried -with the latter? - -At Post Bridge they have had a succession of curates who have lived -this life in cabins or hovels, and have learned to love it. It has one -drawback, and one only--it makes the hands rough and grimy. But what -are gloves for, but to cover dirty hands when we go to town to make -display? - -As to food. Rabbits are to be had at any moment; geese, ducks live -and luxuriate on the moor; an occasional blackcock or moorhen and a -brace of snipe give zest; and trout are to be obtained for the labour -or pleasure of angling for them. The price of horses is mounting; any -number may be grown on the moor. Sheep, cattle--you turn them out, and -they thrive on the sweet grass, and know not the maladies that afflict -flocks and herds in the world twelve hundred feet below. - -[Illustration: ORNAMENTED POTTERY.] - -Let it not be supposed that in winter Dartmoor is a desolation and a -horror. It is by no means an unpleasant place for a sojourn then. When -below are mud and mist, aloft on the moor the ground is hard with frost -and the air crisp and clear. Down below we are oppressed with the fall -of the leaf, affecting us, if inclined to asthma and bronchitis; and -in the short, dull days of December and January our spirits wax dark -amidst naked trees and when our ankles are deep in mud. There are -no trees on Dartmoor to expose their naked limbs, and tell us that -vegetation is dead. The shoulders of down are draped in brown sealskin -mantles--the ling and heather, as lovely in its sleep as in its waking -state; the mosses, touched by frost, turn to rainbow hues. For colour -effects give me Dartmoor in winter. - -And then the peat fires! What fires can surpass them? They do not -flame, but they glow, and diffuse an aroma that fills the lungs with -balm. The turf-cutting is one of the annual labours on the moor. Every -farm has its peat-bog, and in the proper season a sufficiency of fuel -is cut, then carried and stacked for winter use. I may be mistaken, but -it seems to me that cooking done over a peat fire surpasses cooking at -the best club in London. But it may be that on the moor one relishes a -meal in a manner impossible elsewhere. - -Widdecombe-in-the-Moor is a village in a valley walled off from the -world by high ridges on the east and on the west. The entire bed of the -valley has been washed and rewashed by streamers for tin. Bag Park is a -gentleman's seat laid out on this collection of refuse, and the pines -and firs luxuriate in the granite rubble and grow, as if it were to -them a pleasure to thrust up their leaders and expand their boughs. - -I shall never forget a drive through Widdecombe one October day, when -the sun was shining bright, and the air was soft. The sycamores had -shed their leaves; but the expedition was one through coral land. The -rowan or mountain-ash, which was everywhere, was burdened with clusters -of scarlet berries, and the hedges were wreathed with rose-hips and -dense with ruddy haws. - -The church of Widdecombe has a very fine tower, built, it is said, -by the tinners. The roof has many of the original bosses, carved and -painted with heads, flowers, and leaves. One has the figure on it of S. -Catherine with her wheel. One boss has on it three rabbits, each with a -single ear, which unite in the centre, forming a triangle. One exactly -similar is in Tavistock church. - -Part of the lower portion of the roodscreen remains with figures of -saints on it. - -The story of the great thunderstorm in which Widdecombe church was -struck, on Sunday, October 21st, 1638, when the congregation were -present at divine service, has often been told, notably by Mr. -Blackmore in his novel _Christowel_. - -Prince, in his _Worthies of Devon_, thus narrates the circumstances:-- - - "In the afternoon, in service time, there happened a very great - darkness, which still increased to that degree, that they could - not see to read; soon after, a terrible and fearful thunder was - heard, like the noise of so many great guns, accompanied with - dreadful lightning, to the great amazement of the people; the - darkness still increasing, that they could not see each other, when - there presently came such an extraordinary flame of lightning, as - filled the church with fire, smoak, and a loathsome smell, like - brim-stone; a ball of fire came in likewise at the window, and - passed through the church, which so affrighted the congregation, - that most of them fell down in their seats; some upon their knees, - others on their faces, and some one upon another, crying out of - burning and scalding, and all giving themselves up for dead. There - were in all four persons killed, and sixty-two hurt, divers of them - having their linen burnt, tho' their outward garments were not so - much as singed.... The church itself was much torn and defaced with - the thunder and lightning, a beam whereof, breaking in the midst, - fell down between the minister and clerk, and hurt neither. The - steeple was much wrent; and it was observed where the church was - most torn, there the least hurt was done among the people. There - was none hurted with the timber or stone; but one man, who, it was - judged, was killed by the fall of a stone." - -The monument of this man, Roger Hill, is in the church, as also an -account in verse of the storm, composed by the village schoolmaster. - -For many years the incumbent of Widdecombe was a man who was reputed -to be the son of George IV. when Prince Regent. His sister, married to -a captain, who deserted her, occupied a cottage, now in ruins, under -Crockern Tor. She also was believed to be of blood-royal with a bar -sinister. Both the parson and his sister had been brought up about -Court. He, when given the living of Widdecombe--- to get him out of -sight and mind--brought with him a large consignment of excellent port, -and that drew to his parsonage such rare men as would brave the moors -and storms for the sake of a carouse. - -His sister, in the desolate cottage under Crockern Tor, languished and -died, leaving her only child, Caroline, to the charge of her uncle. -She was sent for her education to a famous school in Queen's Square, -London, where she associated with girls belonging to families of the -first rank. - -A certain air of distinction, as well as the story that circulated -relative to her mother's origin, made her an object of interest, and -her imperious manner commanded respect. - -The vicarage was by no means a good place in which a young girl should -grow to maturity. The house was not frequented by men of the best -character, and the wildest stories are told of the goings-on there in -the forties and fifties. - -Caroline was, however, a girl of exceptionally strong character; she -was early called on to hold her own with the associates of her uncle -and frequenters of the vicarage, and she was quite able to enforce upon -them a proper behaviour towards herself. - -Unhappily, she had been reared without any religious principles; her -law was consequently her own caprice, fortunately held in check by a -strong sense of personal dignity. - -The position she was in was as forlorn and unpromising as any in which -a young girl could find herself. - -She was full of generous impulses, but they were wholly untrained; she -possessed furious passions, which were held in check solely by her -pride. She would do at one time a generous act and next a dirty trick, -"just," as the people said, "as though she were a pixy." - -A gentleman named Darke, visiting her uncle on some business, married -Caroline, and soon after her uncle died suddenly, having made a will in -her favour. - -The vicarage was well furnished and contained articles of great value, -in pictures, plate, etc., supposed to have been presented to him, but -most likely obtained with money lent at Court to those temporarily -embarrassed. - -The manor had been sold, and was purchased by Mrs. Darke's trustees at -her request, and from that time she insisted on being entitled "Lady" -Darke; and into this she moved with her dogs, horses, and husband. - -This latter had soon discovered what an imperious character she -possessed. His will might clash with hers, but hers would never give -way. Her character was the toughest and most energetic, and by degrees -he fell into a condition of submission and insignificance which it was -painful to witness, and which "Lady" Darke herself resented, without -being aware that it was due to her own overbearing behaviour. - -She kept nine or ten horses in her stables--some had never been broken -in; some she rode on, others were driven in pairs. But towards the end -of her life the horses were not taken out, and ate their heads off many -times over. - -If a visitor of distinction was expected, she sent for him her carriage -and pair with silver-mounted harness. For ordinary use she employed -her brass-mounted harness; but Bill, her husband, was despatched to -market in the little trap in which she fetched coals. Latterly Mr. -Darke was sent to make purchases at Ashburton, with a long list of -"chores," _i.e._ of articles he was to bring back with him, written out -during the week on a slip of paper from a pocket-book. Here is one: -"Kidney-beans and cucumbers; tea, and green paint with driers; brushes -and putty; sweets; and a frock-body for myself; a milkpan, fourteen -inches; side-combs, 3_s._ 6_d._; ostler's boy and fish; lavender; -pain-killer; wine, salad oil, harness paste, and rice; also ribs of -beef, grate for blue bedroom, india-rubber; rabbits, grind scissors, -cheese, inn and ostler." - -She ruled her husband, and indeed everyone with whom she came in -contact. He, cut off from social intercourse with his fellows, out -of the current of intellectual life, with no other work to do than -to fulfil her behests, sank in his own estimation, and fell into -degradation without making an effort to rise out of it. - -An instance of her despotic character may be given. One day she wanted -to have her hay made; she was anxious lest a change of weather should -come on. She issued an imperious order to the curate of the parish -to come and help save the hay. He sent an apology. This rendered her -furious. She went in quest of him, met him in the village, and falling -on him soundly boxed his ears in public. - -She was an implacable hater; and living on the wilds, half educated, -she was superstitious, and believed in witchcraft, and in her own power -to ill-wish such individuals as offended her. She was caught on one -occasion with a doll into which she was sticking pins and needles, in -the hope and with the intent thereby of producing aches and cramps -in a neighbour. On another occasion she laid a train of gunpowder on -her hearth, about a figure of dough, and ignited it, for the purpose -of conveying an attack of fever to the person against whom she was -animated with resentment. - -It need hardly be said that believing in her own powers others believed -in them as well, and dreaded offending her. - -She was kind-hearted, and impulsive in her generosity. She divided the -parish into two halves--one she gave over to the doctor and kept the -other to herself. "He kills with his physic," she said, "I keep alive -and recover with my soups and port wine." - -She was vastly angry with the vicar, her uncle's successor, about some -trifle, and she went after him with her whip and threatened to chastise -him with it. He actually summoned her, and swore that he lived in -bodily fear of the lady. - -She liked to have visitors drop in on her, but not to be warned of -their coming; for she took a pride in showing what she could provide -for table on the spur of the moment; and forth would come a ham, half -a goose, a boiled leg of mutton, a big cheese and celery, produced as -by magic, and would be served by herself in an old gown, red turnover -handkerchief on her shoulders, and a coal-scuttle bonnet on her head. - -Mrs. Darke at one time played on the piano after the meal to get -her guests to dance, but the cats tore the instrument open and made -their nests and kittened among the strings, and the damp air rusted -the wires. Then she bought a barrel-organ, and forced her husband to -turn the handle in the corner and grind out the music for the dancers. -However, on one occasion, having tasted too often a bottle within -reach, though out of sight, he fell forward in the middle of a dance -and brought the instrument down with him. The instrument was so broken -that it could no longer be used. Mr. Darke died at last in one of the -fits to which he was liable, having retired to rest by mistake under in -place of on the bed. - -By this time the lady had become very deaf. - -On hearing the news of the decease some friends went to see her. - -"Very grieved, madam, at your sad loss!" - -"Ah! Bill is dead. He might have done worse; he might have lived. You -will stop and dine, of course." - -They had to tarry to see to matters of business. "Now, look here," said -"Lady" Darke, "I'll have no more 'truck' with Bill. He has been trouble -to me long enough. I shall send him to his friends in Plymouth. Let -them bury him." - -"Madam," said the nurse, "we want to lay him out. Will you give me a -sheet?" - -"A sheet! One of my good linen sheets! Not I. Take a pig-cloth"; that -is to say, one in which bacon was salted. And actually her husband was -laid in his coffin in one of these "pig-cloths." - -In Mrs. Cudlip's novel, _She Cometh Not, He Saith_, is a description -of a meeting with the lady that is very true to life, as is also the -account of the downstairs arrangement of the manor house. - -In later years "Lady" Darke became infirm. She neglected everything, -and no one dared do anything in the house without her orders. Until she -came downstairs in the morning there could be no breakfast, as she kept -the keys. The house was infested with cats and dogs, and her servants -did not dare to get rid of any of them, or to drive them out of the -rooms. The large room over the kitchen she alone entered. The door was -padlocked, and the key of the padlock she kept attached to her garter. -Thence the key had to be taken after her death to obtain admission. It -was found to contain a confused mass of sundry articles to the depth -of three feet above the floor, the accumulation of many years. Bureaus -were there with guineas and banknotes in the drawers, and quantities of -old silver plate, bearing the arms and crests of men of title who had -been about the Court of the Prince Regent; and the whole was veiled in -cobwebs that hung from the ceiling so long and so dense as to hide the -further extremity of the chamber. - -"Lady" Darke retained her imperious disposition to the end; it was in -vain that it was suggested to her that she should have an attendant to -be always with her. She often sat up the whole night by her fire, and -her servants dared not retire to bed till their mistress had given the -signal that they were to depart. - -Of relations she had none; at least none who came near her, and when -she was dead much difficulty was found in discovering any persons who -had claim to her inheritance. - -She died quite suddenly, and left no will. - -Her trustees had to advertise before they could find relations, and -then those who presented themselves were the children of her father by -a third wife. Her dogs and cats were first killed, then several old -horses that were dragging themselves about the field in extreme old age. - -Her plate and pictures were sold. - -To the best of my knowledge no portrait of her remains. - -She was a fine woman, and must at one time have been handsome. It was -fancied by many that her features bore a resemblance to the pictures of -George IV. in his young days. The mystery relative to her mother and -uncle was never solved, and it is possible enough that the supposed -paternity was due to idle gossip. - -There were vast collections of letters among the remains, but these -were all destroyed, and nothing was allowed to transpire as to their -contents. - -The story from beginning to end is one of infinite sadness. It is of -one with a remarkably strong but undisciplined character, one full of -good impulses, who had never been taught religious duty, and given no -religious belief, who was therefore condemned to waste a profitless -life in a remote village, without purpose, without self-discipline, -without hope, without God. - -There are some interesting old farmhouses about Widdecombe; one is at -Chittleford, another on Corndon. The primitive type of farm on the moor -was an inclosed courtyard, entered through a gate. Opposite the gate -is the dwelling-house, with a projecting porch, with an arched granite -door and a mullioned window over it. On one side of the entrance is the -dwelling-room, on the other the saddle and sundry chamber. The well, -which is a stream of water from the moor conducted by a small leat to -the house, is under cover; and the cattle-sheds open into the yard, -so as to be reached with ease from the house without exposure to the -storms. - -These farm dwellings are rapidly disappearing, and are making way for -more pretentious and extremely hideous buildings. Such as remain are -remarkably picturesque, and should be photographed before they are -destroyed. - -Widdecombe must not be quitted without a reference to the famous -ballad of the old grey mare taken there to the fair; a ballad that -is immensely popular in Devon, and one to the air of which the Devon -Regiment went against the Boers. - -[Illustration: LOWER TARR] - - "Tom Pearce, Tom Pearce, lend me thy grey mare, - All along, down along, out along, lee. - For I want for to go to Widdecombe Fair, - Wi' Bill Brewer, Jan Stewer, Peter Gurney, Peter Davy, - Dan'l Whiddon, Harry Hawk, - Old Uncle Tom Cobleigh and all. - - _Chorus_--Old Uncle Tom Cobleigh and all. - - "And when shall I see again my grey mare? - All along, down along, out along, lee. - By Friday soon, or Saturday noon, - Wi' Bill Brewer, etc. - - "Then Friday came, and Saturday noon, - All along, down along, out along, lee. - But Tom Pearce's old mare hath not trotted home, - Wi' Bill Brewer, etc. - - "So Tom Pearce he got up to the top of the hill - All along, down along, out along, lee. - And he seed his old mare down a-making her will, - Wi' Bill Brewer, etc." - -[Illustration] - -Now it does not appear from the song _why_ the mare was so dead beat. -But a clever American artist, who has illustrated the song, has brought -her knowledge of human nature to bear on the story. She has shown in -her pictures how that the borrower of the horse met with a pretty -gipsy girl at the fair, and persuaded her to ride away with him _en -croupe_. This explains at once why the horse was so overcome that it -"fell sick and died." - -One can understand also how that this ballad being a man's song, a veil -is delicately thrown over this incident. - -I do not quote the entire ballad. - - "When the wind whistles cold on the moor of a night, - All along, down along, out along, lee. - Tom Pearce's old mare doth appear ghastly white, - Wi' Bill Brewer, etc. - - "And all the long night be heard skirling and groans, - All along, down along, out along, lee. - From Tom Pearce's old mare in her rattling bones, - Wi' Bill Brewer, etc." - -FOOTNOTES: - -[17] See my article on "Foundations" in _Strange Survivals_ (Methuen -and Co., 1892). See also my _Book of the West_, i. p. 331. - - - - -CHAPTER XIII. - -HOLNE - - Holne church and screen--Epitaph--Holne Chase--The - Coffin-stone--Dartmeet Bridge--Dolly's Cot--Dolly - Trebble--Sherrill--Yar Tor--Proposed new road--Pixy - Holt--Blowing-house at Okebrook--Jolly Lane Cot--Song-hunting - under difficulties--The Sandy Way--Childe's Tomb--Crosses in - a line--Swincombe--Gobbetts Mine--Crazing-mill stones--Holne - vicarage--Charles Kingsley--Old customs at Holne--Similar custom - at King's Teignton--Sacrifice of sheep. - - -At Holne the old church house, now an inn, affords very comfortable -quarters, and from it many interesting excursions may be made. - -Holne church has preserved its old screen and pulpit, the former -rich with paintings of saints. Both were probably erected by Oldam, -Bishop of Exeter, 1504-19. In the churchyard is the following doggerel -inscription:-- - - "Here lies poor old Ned, on his last mattrass bed. - During life he was honest and free; - He knew well the chase, but has now run his race, - And his name it was Colling, d'ye see. - - He died December 28th, 1780, aged 77." - -From the vicarage garden a noble view of the windings of the Dart -through Holne Chase is to be obtained--permission asked and given. - -To see Holne Chase, it should be ascended as far as New Bridge, and -thence descended through the Buckland Drives. Permission is given on -fixed days. - -In Holne Wood, where the river makes a loop, is an early camp, with -indications of hut circles in it, but thrown out of shape by the trees -growing in the area. Near the entrance charcoal-burners have formed -their hole in which to burn the timber. A finer and better preserved -camp is Hembury. - -In the Chase, on the Buckland side under Awsewell Rock, are the -remains of furnaces and great heaps of slag. The point is where there -is a junction of the granite and the sedimentary rocks. Above the -wooded flank of the hill, the rocks are pierced and honeycombed by -miners following veins of ore, probably copper. The workings are very -primitive, and deserve inspection. The little village of Buckland -should not be neglected. It is marvellously picturesque, but the houses -do not appear to be healthy, being buried in foliage. The church has -not been restored. It possesses an old screen with curious paintings, -some impossible to interpret; and it is in the old bepewed, neglected -condition familiar now only to those whose years number something about -sixty or seventy. Buckland-in-the-Moor is the full name of this parish, -but it is no longer in the moor. Colonel Bastard, ancestor of the -present owner, planted all the heathery land and hillsides with trees, -and received therefor the thanks of Parliament as one who by so doing -had deserved well of his country. - -If Holne Chase be beautiful, so is the Dart above New Bridge. A more -interesting drive can hardly be taken than one branching off from the -main road before reaching Pound's Gate and following a grassy track -called "Dr. Blackall's Drive," that sweeps round the heights above the -Dart and rejoins the road between Mel Tor and Sharpie Tor. - -But to see the Dart valley in perfection the river should be followed -up on foot from New Bridge to that of Dartmeet, and thence up to Post -Bridge. - -The descent to Dartmeet by the road is one of over five hundred feet. -Halfway is the Coffin-stone, on which five crosses are cut, and -which is split in half--the story goes, by lightning. On this it is -customary to rest a dead man on his way from the moor beyond Dartmeet -to his final resting-place at Widdecombe. When the coffin is laid on -this stone, custom exacts the production of the whisky bottle, and a -libation all round to the manes of the deceased. - -One day a man of very evil life, a terror to his neighbours, was being -carried to his burial, and his corpse was laid on the stone whilst the -bearers regaled themselves. All at once, out of a passing cloud shot a -flash, and tore the coffin and the dead man to pieces, consuming them -to cinders, and splitting the stone. Do you doubt the tale? See the -stone cleft by the flash. - -Among the many hundreds who annually visit Dartmeet, I do not suppose -that more than one sees the real beauties to which this spot opens the -way. Actually, Dartmeet Bridge is situated at the least interesting and -least picturesque point on the river. - -To know the Dart and see its glories, a visitor must desert the -bridge and ascend the river. I will indicate to him two walks, each of -remarkable beauty and each an easy one. - -The first is this: Ascend the Dart on the _left_. This can be done by -passing through a gate above Dartmeet Cottage, and descending to the -river, where remain a few of the venerable oaks that once abounded at -Brimpts, but were wantonly cut down at the beginning of this century. -Ascend by a fisherman's path through the plantation to where the wood -ends, and the hills falling back reveal a pleasant meadow, with, -rising out of it by the river, a holt or pile of rocks overgrown with -oaks. The view from this is beautiful. Proceeding half a mile a ruined -cottage is reached, where the stately Yar Tor may be seen to advantage. -This ruin is called Dolly's Cot. - -Dolly, who has given her name to this ruin, was a somewhat remarkable -woman. She lived with her brother, orphans, by Princetown when Sir -Thomas Tyrwhitt settled at Tor Royal. She was a remarkably handsome -girl, and she seems to have caught the eye of this gentleman, who -located her and her brother in the lodge, and then, as the brother -kept a sharp look-out on his sister, he got rid of him by obtaining -for him an appointment in the House of Lords, where he looked after -the lighting, and had as his perquisite the ends of the wax tapers. As -fresh candles were provided every day, and the sessions were at times -short, the perquisites were worth a good deal. - -[Illustration: THE CLEFT ROCK ABOVE HOLNE CHASE] - -However, if the brother were away Dolly had another to watch over -her, one Tom Trebble, a young and handsome moorman, who did not at -all relish the manner in which Sir Thomas, Warden of the Stannaries, -hovered about Miss Dolly. - -But a climax was reached when the Prince Regent arrived at Tor Royal -to visit his forest of Dartmoor. The Prince's eye speedily singled -Dolly out, and the blue coat and brass buttons, white ducks tightly -strapped, and the curled-brimmed hat were to be seen on the way to -Dolly's cottage a little too frequently to please Tom Trebble. So to -cut his anxieties short he whisked Dolly on to the pillion of his moor -cob and rode off with her to Lydford, where they were married. Then he -carried her away to this cottage--now a ruin--on the Dart, to which led -no road, hardly a path even, and where she was likely to be out of the -way of both the Prince and his humble servant, Sir Thomas. - -In this solitary cottage Tom and Dolly lived for many years. She -survived her husband, and gained her livelihood by working at the -tin-mine of Hexworthy, where one of the shafts recently sunk was named -after her. - -The candle-snuffer realised--so it was said--a good fortune out of the -wax taper-ends, and never returned to Dartmoor. - -Dolly lived to an advanced age, and even as an old woman was remarkably -handsome and of a distinguished appearance. - -It is now difficult to collect authentic information concerning her, -as only very old people remember Dolly. She was buried at Widdecombe, -and aged moor folk still speak of her funeral, at which all the women -mourners wore white skirts, _i.e._ their white petticoats _without_ -the coloured skirts of their gowns, and white kerchiefs pinned as -crossovers to cover their shoulders. - -The distance is between six and seven miles. Dolly was borne to her -grave by the tin-miners, and followed not only by the mine-workers, but -by all the women of the moorside, and all in their white petticoats; -and as they went they sang psalms. - -From Dolly's Cot the hill can be ascended to "The Seven Sisters," seven -conspicuous old Scotch pines, whereof one has lost its head. Thence a -road is reached that takes a visitor back to Dartmeet by Brimpts. - -The other walk, even finer, is this: Ascend the hill on the Ashburton -road till a road breaks away to the left to Sherrill. Follow this, -when on the _col_ a kistvaen, inclosed in a circle, is reached. North -of this is a much-ruined set of stone rows, three parallel lines -running 660 feet, but so plundered that only 158 stones remain. The -road descends to a pleasant little settlement, Sherrill, or Sher-well, -consisting of a farm and some cottages. The Sher-well bursts out in -one strong spring beside the road, and becomes a good stream almost -directly. - -[Illustration: YAR TOR] - -The situation is warm and sheltered, and the ground is cultivated. The -road descends to the Wallabrook, which it crosses, to Babeney. Thence -a track leads down the Wallabrook to its junction with the Dart, where -is disclosed what I hold to be one of the finest, if not the finest -view on Dartmoor. A tract of level pasture lies at the junction of -the streams, and from this Yar Tor soars up a veritable mountain. Few -of the Dartmoor heights are so situated as to show themselves to such -advantage. On the right, a spur well clothed in dark fir plantations -comes down from Brimpts; and on the left is a clitter of bold granite -rocks. The time to visit this is certainly the evening, when Yar Tor is -bathed in a golden glory, and the woods are steeped in royal purple. - -Thence a path, or track rather, leads down the Dart on the east side, -past Badgers' Holt to the bridge. - -And perhaps on the way the _Graphis scripta_ may be found, but it -is chiefly to be discovered on old hollies, a mysterious writing, -characters scrawled by delicate hands, and understandable only by -the pixies, who are credited with thus writing their messages to one -another. Actually this is a lichen, that strangely affects a script. - -It was at Badgers' Holt that old Dan Leaman lived, on whom a trick was -played which I have already related in my _Book of the West_. - -What a solitary life must have been led by the occupants of the -scattered farms and cottages at Babeney, Sherrill, Dury, and the like, -in former times! And yet those who occupied them got to love the -isolation. A woman at Sherrill, who had been in service and had married -a moorman, said to me, "I wouldn't live here if I could help it; but, -Lor' bless y', my old man, there's no gettin' he away from atop o' -Widdecombe chimney"--that is to say, the level of the church tower. -The reach of its bells formed the world--the only world in which he -cared to live. In a cottage near Sherrill lived an old woman absolutely -alone, who for sixty years never once allowed her fire to go out. - -If it be desired to open out Dartmoor, a road should be carried up -the Dart from New Bridge to Dartmeet, and thence, still following the -river, to Post Bridge. The owners of the banks of the Dart below New -Bridge to Holne Bridge--in fact, of Holne Chase--could then hardly -refuse to allow it to be carried through their land to Holne Bridge, -and then a drive would be created passing through scenery unsurpassed -in England. Another ought to be engineered up the Webburn from its meet -with the Dart, past Lizwell to Widdecombe; then that solitary village -would be at once accessible, and brought into the world. - -Below Dartmeet Bridge, if the river be followed on the right through a -wood, the Pixy Holt is reached, a cave in which the little good folk -are supposed to dwell. It is the correct thing to leave a pin or some -other trifle in acknowledgment when visiting their habitation. - -Where the Okebrook drops into the West Dart is an old blowing-house, -with moulds for the tin, ruined, and with a stout oak growing up in the -midst. There are also mortar-stones in the ruin. Above Huccaby Bridge -are the remains of a fine circle of standing stones that has been sadly -mutilated. Another, far more perfect, is at Sherberton. - -Near the bridge is Jolly Lane Cot, the house of Sally Satterleigh, -that was built and occupied in one day. Her father was desirous of -marrying a wife and bringing her to a home; but he had no home to -which to introduce her, and the farmers round not only would afford no -help, but proved obstructive. One day when it was Holne Revel, and the -farmers had gone thither, the labouring people assembled in swarms, -set to work and built up the cottage, and before the farmers returned, -lively with drink, from the revel, the man was in the cottage and had -lighted a fire on the hearth, and this constituted a freeholding from -which no man might dispossess him. This man was a notable singer, and -his old daughter, now a grandmother, remembered some of his songs. -One wild and stormy day, Mr. Bussell, of Brazen Nose College, now Dr. -Bussell and tutor of his college, drove over with me from Princetown to -get her songs from her. - -But old Sally could not sit down and sing. We found that the sole way -in which we could extract the ballads from her was by following her -about as she did her usual work. Accordingly we went after her when she -fed the pigs, or got sticks from the firewood rick, or filled a pail -from the spring, pencil and notebook in hand, dotting down words and -melody. Finally she did sit to peel some potatoes, when Mr. Bussell -with a MS. music-book in hand, seated himself on the copper. This -position he maintained as she sang the ballad of "Lord Thomas and the -Fair Eleanor," till her daughter applied fire under the cauldron, and -Mr. Bussell was forced to skip from his perch. - -Holne forms the extreme eastern end of a long ridge that terminates -to the west in Down Tor. This hog's back stands over 1,500 feet above -the sea, and is the watershed. From it stream the Avon, the Erme, the -Yealm, and the Plym in a southerly direction, and north of it are -the West Dart and the Swincombe river. It is a rounded back of moor, -without granite tors, thickly sown with bogs. But there is a track, -the Sandy Way, that threads these morasses from Holne, and leads to -Childe's Tomb, a kistvaen, with a cross near it. - -The story is well known. - -A certain Childe, a hunter, lost his way in winter in this wilderness. -Snow fell thick and his horse could go no further. - - "In darkness blind, he could not find - Where he escape might gain, - Long time he tried, no track espied, - His labours all in vain. - - "His knife he drew, his horse he slew - As on the ground it lay; - He cut full deep, therein to creep, - And tarry till the day. - - "The winds did blow, fast fell the snow, - And darker grew the night, - Then well he wot he hope might not - Again to see the light. - - "So with his finger dipp'd in blood, - He scrabbled on the stones-- - 'This is my will, God it fulfil, - And buried be my bones. - - "'Whoe'er it be that findeth me, - And brings me to a grave; - The lands that now to me belong - In Plymstock he shall have.'" - -The story goes on to say that when the monks of Buckfast heard of this -they made ready to transport the body to their monastery. But the monks -of Tavistock were beforehand with them; they threw a bridge over the -Tavy, ever after called Guile Bridge, and carried the dead Childe to -their abbey. Thenceforth they possessed the Plymstock estate. - -The kistvaen is, of course, not Childe's grave, for it is prehistoric, -and Childe was not buried there. But the cross may have been set up to -mark the spot where he was found. - -Childe's Cross was quite perfect, standing on a three-stepped pedestal, -till in or about 1812, when it was nearly destroyed by the workmen of -a Mr. Windeatt, who was building a farmhouse near by. The stones that -composed it have, however, been for the most part recovered, and the -cross has been restored as well as might be under the circumstances. - -The Sandy Way was doubtless a very ancient track across the moor from -east to west, as it is marked by crosses, as may be judged by the -Ordnance map. 1, Horne's Cross; 2 and 3, crosses on Down Ridge; 4 and -5, crosses on Terhill; 6 and 7, crosses near Fox Tor, in the Newtake; -8, Childe's Cross; 9, Seward's or Nun's Cross; 10, cross on Walkhampton -Common. - -Swincombe, formerly Swan-combe, runs to the north of the ridge, and has -the sources of its river in the Fox Tor mires and near Childe's Tomb. - -It runs north-east, and then abruptly passes north to decant into the -West Dart. - -Near this is Gobbetts Mine, a very interesting spot, for here are -samples of the modern deep mining shaft, the shallow workings, and the -deep, open cuttings of the earlier times, and the stream works of the -"old men." Thus we have on one spot a compendium of the history of -mining for tin. Among the relics lying about are the remains of an old -crazing-mill, consisting of the upper and the nether stones. The nether -stone is 3 feet 10 inches in diameter, and 10 inches thick. In the -periphery is a groove forming a lip, that served readily to discharge -the ground material. - -[Illustration: CRAZING-MILL STONE, UPPER GOBBETTS.] - -The upper stone has a roughly convex back, and an eye as well as four -holes drilled in it. Into these holes posts were fitted, which carried -two bars, so that the stone was made to revolve by horse or man power, -like the arrangement of a capstan. - -[Illustration: METHOD OF USING THE MILL-STONES. SECTION.] - -The hole or eye of the nether stone was for the purpose of -receiving a conical plug, the apex of which penetrated partly -into the eye of the upper stone, and served the double purpose of -keeping the runner stone in position and of distributing the feed -equally on the grinding-surfaces. To further assist this are four -curved master-furrows or grooves, radiating from the eye of the -grinding-surface of the upper stone. The mill, worked by men or by -horses, was of slow speed, and water was introduced to assist the -propulsion of the ground material towards the grooved lip in the -periphery of the stone. This and the feed were, of course, introduced -through the circular hole in the top stone. - -On the site of what was evidently the blowing-house is a mould-stone, -about 4 feet by 3. The mould is 15 inches long by 11 inches wide at -one end, and 10 inches at the other, and 4 to 5 inches deep. There are -also cavities for sample ingots. - -Other stones lie about with hollows worked in them, that seem to have -been mortar-stones, used for pounding up the ore, at a period earlier -than that at which the crazing-mill was introduced. - -Further up the Swincombe, on the left, a little stream descends that -has had its bed turned over and over. This is Deep Swincombe, and here -are the remains of the earliest known smelting-house yet noticed on -Dartmoor. It has been fully described in a previous chapter. On all -sides we discover traces of those who in ancient times came to Dartmoor -and toiled after metal. We go in swarms there now--to spend our metal -and idle and gain health. So the old order changeth, and with it men's -moods and manners. - -To return to Holne. In the parsonage Charles Kingsley was born, but the -house has since been to a large extent rebuilt. On a fly-sheet of the -Book of Burial Registers is the entry, "The Vicarage House, being very -_dilapidated_, was taken down and rebuilt by the Vicar (the Rev. John -D. Parham) in the year 1832." It was in that "very dilapidated" house -that Charles Kingsley was born. - -A curious custom existed at Holne, now given up. There is, near the -village, a "Ploy (play) Field" in which stood formerly a rude granite -stone six or seven feet high. - -On May morning, before daybreak, the young men of the village were wont -to assemble there and then proceed to the moor, where they selected a -ram lamb, and, after running it down, brought it in triumph to the -Ploy Field, fastened it to the granite post, cut its throat, and then -roasted it whole--skin, wool, etc. At midday a struggle took place, -at the risk of cut hands, for a slice, it being supposed to confer -luck for the ensuing year on the fortunate devourer. As an act of -gallantry the young men sometimes fought their way through the crowd -to get a slice for the chosen amongst the young women, all of whom, -in their best dresses, attended the Ram Feast, as it was called. -Dancing, wrestling, and other games, assisted by copious libations of -cider during the afternoon, prolonged the festivity till midnight. -This is now entirely of the past, but a somewhat similar popular -festival survives at King's Teignton, or did so till recently. There -Whitsuntide is the season chosen. A lamb is drawn about the parish on -Whitsun Monday in a cart covered with garlands of lilac, laburnum, and -other flowers, when persons are requested to give something towards -the animal and attendant expenses. On Tuesday morning it is killed and -roasted whole in the middle of the village. The lamb is then sold in -slices to the poor at a cheap rate. The story told to account for this -festival is that the village once suffered from a dearth of water, when -the inhabitants were advised to pray for water; whereupon a fountain -burst forth in a meadow about a third of a mile above the river, in an -estate now called Rydon, a supply sufficient to meet the necessities of -the villagers. A lamb, it is said, has ever since been sacrificed as a -return offering at Whitsuntide in the manner above mentioned. - -The said water appears like a large pond, from which in rainy weather -may be seen jets springing up some inches above the surface in many -parts. - -I know the case of a farmer on the edge of Dartmoor, whose cattle were -afflicted with some disorder in 1879; he thereupon conveyed a sheep -to the ridge above his house, sacrificed and burnt it there, as an -offering to the Pysgies. The cattle at once began to recover, and did -well after, nor were there any fresh cases of sickness amongst them. -Since then I have been told of other and very similar cases. - - - - -CHAPTER XIV. - -IVYBRIDGE - - The moors on the south not bold--South Brent--Destruction of - the screen--The Avon--Zeal Plains crowded with prehistoric - remains--The Abbots' Way--Huntingdon's Cross--Petre's - Cross--Hobajohn's Cross--Stone row--Remains upon Erme - Plains--The Staldon stone row--Other rows--Beehive - huts--Harford church--Hall--The Duchess of Kingston--The Yealm - valley--Blowing-houses--Long wall--Hawns and Dendles--The tripper - and ferns--Wisdome--Slade--Fardell--The Fardell Stone. - - -This not very interesting spot may be chosen as a centre whence -the Avon, Erme, and Yealm river valleys may be explored. The -distances are considerable, but the railway facilitates reaching -starting-points--South Brent for the Avon, and Cornwood for the Yealm. -It is advisable to ascend one river, cross a ridge, and descend another -river. - -The moors on this, the south, side are by no means so bold as are those -on the other sides, but the valleys are hardly to be surpassed for -beauty; and they give access to very remarkable groups of antiquities, -the distance to some of which beyond inclosed land, and the absence of -roads on this part of the moor has saved these latter from destruction. - -In Ivybridge itself there is absolutely nothing worth seeing, but -the churches of Ugborough and Ermington richly deserve a visit; and -there are some old manor houses, as Fardell, Fillham, Slade, and -Fowelscombe, that may be seen with interest. We will begin with the -valley of the Avon. - -South Brent is dominated by Brent Hill, that was formerly crowned with -a chapel dedicated to S. Michael. The parish church, a foundation -of S. Petrock, possessed a fine carved oak screen. The church has, -however, been taken in hand by that iconoclast the "restorer," who has -left it empty, swept and garnished--a thing of nakedness and a woe for -ever. The screen--the one glory of the church--was cast forth into the -graveyard, and there allowed to rot. - -The Avon foams down from the moor through a contracted throat, -affording scenes of great beauty in its ravine. It receives the -Glazebrook some way below South Brent, and the Bala about the same -distance above it. - -The river has to be ascended for two miles and a half before Shipley -Bridge is reached, and then the moor is in front of one, with Zeal -Plains spread out, strewn with prehistoric settlements that have not as -yet been properly investigated. - -The Abbots' Way, a track from Buckfast to Tavistock, crosses the Avon -at Huntingdon's Cross, a rude un-chamfered stone four feet and a half -high. It stands immediately within the forest bounds. The moors already -traversed are the commons of Brent and Dean. The cross is romantically -situated in a rocky basin, the rising ground about it covered with -patches of heather, with here and there a granite boulder protruding -through the turf. - - "All around is still and silent, save the low murmuring of the - waters as they run over their pebbly bed. The only signs of life - are the furry inhabitants of the warren, and, perchance, a herd of - Dartmoor ponies, wild as the country over which they roam, and a - few sheep or cattle grazing on the slopes. The cross is surrounded - by rushes, and a dilapidated wall--the warren enclosure--runs near - it."[18] - -The Abbots' Way may here be distinctly seen ascending the left bank of -the Avon. - -On Quick Beam Hill, over which the Abbots' Way climbs to reach the -valley of the Erme, is another cross, concerning which something must -be said, as it shows that not only educated and intelligent architects -are iconoclasts, but also illiterate and stupid workmen. - -There is a cairn that bears the name of Whitaburrow, and till the year -1847, erect on it in the centre stood an old grey moorstone cross. In -that year a company was formed to extract naphtha from the peat, and -its works were established near Shipley Bridge, to which the peat was -conveyed from this spot in tram-waggons. - -There being no place of shelter near, the labourers erected a house on -the summit of the cairn, which measures one hundred and ninety feet -in circumference, and requiring a large stone as a support for their -chimney-breast, they knocked off the arms of the cross and employed the -shaft for that purpose. The house has disappeared with the exception -of the foundations and about three feet in height of walling, but the -poor old maimed shaft stands there aloft, just as the poor old maimed -church of South Brent stands on the river far below. Each has lost -that which made it significant and beautiful, each mutilated by the -stupidity of man. - -The cross takes its name from Sir William Petre of Tor Brian, who -possessed certain rights over Brent Moor. He was Secretary of State in -four reigns--those of Henry VIII., Edward VI., Mary, and Elizabeth--and -seems to have conformed to whichever religion was favoured by the -Sovereign, like the Vicar of Bray. He died in 1571, and was the -ancestor of the present Lord Petre. - -On Ugborough Moor, that adjoins, is a third cross, called that of -Hobajohn, which is planted, singularly enough, in the midst of a stone -row. This row starts on Butterdon Hill, above Ivybridge, and passes -within a short distance of Sharp Tor. I have not seen it, but learn -that it, like most other stone rows, starts from a cairn inclosed -within upright stones. It must, if really a stone row, be something -like three miles in length. The cross has also been mutilated, and lies -prostrate. - -A fourth cross, Spurle's or Pearl's Cross, on Ugborough Moor, has lost -its shaft. - -The Abbots' Way from Avon valley leads to the Erme valley, where -Redlake enters it at a very interesting point. Here, at the junction of -this feeder, is a well-preserved blowing-house, with its wheel-pit and -with its tin-moulds lying in the ruins. - -The whole of Erme Plains and the valley for three miles down is simply -crowded with hut circles, pounds, and other remains. On the height -above, Staldon Moor, is a stone row of really astounding length, of -which something has been already said. It starts at the south end from -a large circle, which formerly inclosed a cairn, and stretches away -to the north, over hill and down dale, for two miles and a quarter, -and terminates in a kistvaen. The stones are not large, but the row is -fairly intact. - -Due south of this, on the south side of the highest point of Stall -Moor, Staldon Barrow, are two more stone rows, almost, but not quite, -in a line. In the neighbourhood are many cairns and kistvaens. The -stones here are larger. Taken together the rows run over 1,400 feet. -They can be seen from Cornwood Station when the light is favourable. - -Again another row on Burford Down, a continuation of the same moor, -starts from a circle containing a kistvaen near Tristis Rock, and -stretches away north to a wall and across an inclosed field, but here -it has been sadly pillaged for the construction of the wall. It still -runs 1,500 feet. The Erme valley has been much worked by streamers, and -some of the mining operations have been carried on at a comparatively -recent period. - -By the side of a little lateral gully on the right hand in descending -the river is a beehive hut among the streamers' mounds; it is quite -intact, and shelter may be taken in it from a passing storm. It is, -however, not prehistoric, but is a miners' _cache_. - -Another, also perfect, is a little further down, on the other side of -the river before reaching Piles Wood. - -Harford church, another foundation of S. Petrock, stands high. It -contains nothing of interest except an altar tomb with brasses upon it, -in memory of Thomas Williams, Speaker of the House of Commons, of the -family of that name formerly resident at Stowford, in the parish. And -in the second place, a monument to John and Agnes Prideaux, the parents -of John Prideaux, Bishop of Worcester. This was set up by the latter in -1639. - -Hall, not far from the church, was for some time the residence of the -notorious Elizabeth Chudleigh, Duchess of Kingston, who was tried and -condemned for bigamy. It was a hard case. She was born in 1726, and was -the daughter of Colonel Thomas Chudleigh, who died when Elizabeth was -quite a child. In 1744, when she was aged only eighteen, she visited -her maternal aunt, Anne Hanmer, at Lainston, near Winchester, met at -the Winchester Races Lieutenant Hervey, second son of Lord Hervey, -and grandson of the Earl of Bristol, who was then aged twenty. He was -invited to Lainston, and one night in a foolish frolic, at eleven -o'clock, with the connivance, if not at the instigation, of Mrs. -Hanmer, Elizabeth was married to Lieutenant Hervey by the rector in the -little roofless ruin of a church. No registers were signed, and the -bridegroom left in two days to rejoin his ship, and sailed for the West -Indies. - -She never after that received Lieutenant Hervey as her husband, and -he instituted a suit in the Consistory Court of the Bishop of London -for the jactitation of the marriage, and sentence was given in 1769 -declaring that the marriage form gone through in 1744 was null and -void. On the strength of this Elizabeth married the Duke of Kingston, -March 8, 1769. - -No attempt was made during the lifetime of the Duke to dispute the -legality of the union; neither he nor Elizabeth had the least doubt -that the former marriage had been legally dissolved. But when the Duke -left all his great fortune to Elizabeth, then his nephews were furious, -and raked up against her the charge of bigamy, on the grounds that -the sentence of the Consistory Court was invalid. She was tried in -Westminster Hall before her peers in 1776, and the trial lasted five -days. - -The penalty for bigamy was death, but she could escape this sentence by -claiming the benefit of a statute of William and Mary, which commuted -death to branding in the hand and imprisonment. The peers found her -guilty, but she escaped punishment by flying to the Continent, where -she died in 1788.[19] - -Harford Hall, where she resided, has about it no architectural -features; it never can have been other than a small mansion, and is now -a mere farmhouse. The trees around it alone indicate that it was at one -time a gentleman's seat. - -If now we strike across Stall Moor to the Yealm we come on Yealm -Steps, where the river falls over a mass of granite débris. Here are -two blowing-houses, one above the steps and the other below. The -lower house on the eastern side of the stream is a mere heap of ruins -with, however, the door-jamb standing and facing the north.[20] No -wheel-pit is visible, but there are traces of a watercourse at a high -level to the north-east of the hut. Near the entrance is a stone with -one perfect mould in it, and another imperfect. A second mould-stone -is lying near an angle in the eastern wall of the house. It has in it -two moulds adjoining each other--one at a lower level than the other, -and connected by a channel. The high-level cavity is 15 inches long, 8 -inches wide, and 3 inches deep. At one end is a groove one inch deep, -perpendicular, and running down the side of the mould three inches; -that is, from top to bottom. - -The low-level mould is 17 inches long, 12 inches wide, and 5 inches -deep. These cavities have been used for the purification of tin, -for the molten metal mixed with furnace impurities poured in on the -high-level hollow would flow in a purer condition into the low-level -mould. - -This blowing-house has been excavated, somewhat superficially, but -nothing was found in it to give token of the period to which it -belonged. About a quarter of a mile further up the river, but on the -western bank, is another ruin. The doorway, which is very imperfect, -is on the eastern side. One mould-stone remains, containing a mould 17 -inches long, 12 inches wide, and from 4 to 5 inches deep. - -The whole slope of Stall Moor towards the south is strewn with hut -circles, and between the Yealm and Broadall Lake is a pound containing -several. On the further side of the stream is another pound, at which -begins a singular wall that extends for over three miles as far as -the Plym at Trowlesworthy Warren. For what purpose this wall was -erected--whether as a boundary, or whether for defence--cannot be -determined. It is in connection with several pounds and clusters of hut -circles. - -In the valley of Hawns and Dendles is a pretty cascade, a great haunt -of the tripper, who ravages the Yealm valley and tears up and carries -off the ferns and roots of wild flowers. - -A few instances of the habits of the tripper may not seem amiss, as -exhibited in the Yealm valley. - -Blachford was the residence of the late Lord Blachford, the friend of -Gladstone. - -One day my lady saw a woman--a tripper--in front of the house, where -there is a rockery, tearing up ferns. Lady Blachford rushed forth to -interfere. - -"Oh!" said the tripper, "I only did it so as to get a sight of Lord -Blachford. I thought if I executed some mischief I might draw him -forth." - -A peculiarly fine rhododendron grew in front of the vicarage. It -attracted the tripper by its beautiful masses of flower. One evening -an individual of this not uncommon species proceeded to tear it up, -assisted by trowel and knife; and finally having hacked through the -roots, carried it off; but finding the load burdensome at the first -hill, threw it away. - -A gentleman residing further down the valley was cultivating a rare -flowering shrub. After seven years it put forth its tassels of bloom. -He tarried a day or two before gathering the blossoms till they were -fully out. His wife was an invalid, and he purposed showing them to -her when in their full perfection. But before he carried his purpose -into execution, he went to Cornwood Station to meet a friend, when he -perceived a "lady" on the platform with her hands full of the flowers. -He approached her and civilly inquired where she had obtained the -beautiful bunches. - -"Oh! they were growing in Mr. P.'s ground, so I went in and gathered -them. I know Mr. P. well, and I am convinced he would not object." - -"You have the advantage of me, madam. I am Mr. P. But to a lady, as -to a Christian, all things are lawful, though all things may not be -expedient." - -A friend threw open his grounds to a great party of school teachers -and their scholars. The neighbourhood had been denuded of the _Osmunda -regalis_ by the tripper, but the beautiful fern had a sanctuary in his -preserves. However, the visitors dug up, tore away, and destroyed his -plants wholesale, and returned to town burdened with the wreckage. The -_Osmunda_ is a slow grower, and takes many years to reach maturity. - -So much for the tripper. I do not in the least suppose any of this race -will see more of my book than the outside. But I write this for the -intelligent visitor, to warn him against Hawns and Dendles on Plymouth -early closing day (Wednesday) in summer. - -Wisdome is the ancestral house of the Rogers family, of which the late -Lord Blachford was the representative. It is a modest, picturesque old -moorland mansion of a small gentle family. Slade, on the other hand, -must have been a house of consequence; it still possesses a noble -hall, with richly carved oak wainscotting. Steart has handsome carved -armorial gates; and Fardell is remarkable as a home of the Raleigh -family, and had its licensed chapel. The grandfather of the navigator -lived at Fardell, and Sir Walter himself was probably there much in -his early days. Here was found an ogham inscription on a stone, now -in the British Museum, which shows that the Irish had conquered and -colonised Devon as far south as Cornwood. Other oghams have been found -at Tavistock, and at Lewannick, near Launceston. - -According to local belief, the stone indicated where treasure was hid; -and a jingle was current in the neighbourhood:-- - - "Between this stone and Fardell Hall - Lies as much money as the devil can haul." - -The stone bore the inscription, "Fanonii Macquisini" on one side, and -"Sapanni" on the other. The "Mac" in the name is conclusively Irish, as -also the oghams. - -FOOTNOTES: - -[18] CROSSING, _Ancient Crosses of Dartmoor_, p. 15. - -[19] I have told her story in full in _Historic Oddities and Strange -Events_. Methuen and Co., 1889. - -[20] This is the scene chosen by me for my story _Guavas the Tinner_. - - - - -CHAPTER XV. - -YELVERTON - - Yelverton or Elford-town--Longstone--The Elfords--"The Silly - Doe"--Mr. Collier on otter-hunting--Sheeps Tor church--The - reservoir--The old vicarage--The Bull-ring--Rajah Brooke--Roman's - Cross--The Deancombe valley--Coaches--Down Tor stone row--Nun's - Cross--Roundy Farm--Clakeywell Pool--Strange voices--Leather - Tor--Drizzlecombe and its remains--Old customs at Sheeps - Tor--Meavy--Church--Marchant's Cross--China-clay and William - Cookworthy--The Dewerstone--The Wild Huntsman--Tavistock. - - -Yelverton is a corruption of Elford-town. The mansion near the station -was formerly a seat of the Elfords of Sheeps Tor. The family is now -extinct, at least in the neighbourhood where at one time it was of -dignity and well estated. Yelverton is itself a mere collection of -villa residences of Plymouth men of business, but it forms a convenient -point of departure for many interesting expeditions. - -The principal residence of the Elfords was at Longstone, in Sheeps Tor, -where the old house remains little altered, and where the _windstrew_ -should be seen, a granite platform, raised above the field, on which -thrashing could be carried on by the aid of the winds that carried away -the chaff. - -[Illustration: THE DEWERSTONE] - -The tor which gives its name to the village and parish stands by -itself, and rises to about 1,200 feet. It is a picturesque hill, -and only needs the addition of another couple of hundred put to its -elevation to make it perfect. - -The basin below the village was anciently a lake, the water being -retained by a barrier of rock where stands now the dam for the -reservoir. This, in time, was silted up to the depth of ninety feet, -and now the Plymouth Corporation, by the construction of a fine and -eminently picturesque barrier across the narrow gorge through which the -Meavy flows, have reconverted this basin into a lake. - -Near the summit of the tor is the Pixy Cave, in which Squire Elford -remained concealed whilst the Roundheads searched Longstone for him. -Some faithful tenants in the village kept him supplied with food -till pursuit was at an end. The Elfords inherited Longstone from the -Scudamores at the close of the fifteenth century. The parish was then -called Shettes Tor, from the Celtic _syth_, steep; but the name has -been altered in this or last century. The last Elford of Sheeps Tor -was John, who married Admonition Prideaux, and died without issue -in 1748, his six children having predeceased him. A side branch of -the family--to which, however, Sheeps Tor did not fall--produced Sir -William Elford, Bart., of Bickham, but he died in 1837, without male -issue, and the title became extinct. His monument is in Totnes church. - -A man named Cole, working at the granite quarries at Merrivale Bridge, -a few years ago sang me a song concerning a doe that escaped from -Elford Park, which was probably situated where is now Yelverton. - - THE SILLY DOE - - Give ear unto my mournful song - Gay huntsmen every one, - And unto you I will relate - My sad and doleful moan. - O here I be a silly Doe, - From Elford Park I strayed, - In leaving of my company - Myself to death betrayed. - - The master said I must be slain - For 'scaping from his bounds: - "O keeper, wind the hunting horn, - And chase him with your hounds." - A Duke of royal blood was there, - And hounds of noble race; - They gathered in a rout next day, - And after me gave chase. - - They roused me up one winter morn, - The frost it cut my feet, - My red, red blood came trickling down, - And made the scent lie sweet. - For many a mile they did me run, - Before the sun went down, - Then I was brought to give a teen, - And fall upon the groun'. - - The first rode up, it was the Duke: - Said he, "I'll have my will!" - A blade from out his belt he drew - My sweet red blood to spill. - So with good cheer they murdered me, - As I lay on the ground; - My harmless life it bled away, - Brave huntsmen cheering round. - -I am a little puzzled as to whether the dry sarcasm in this song is -intentional.[21] The melody is peculiarly sweet and plaintive. _When_ a -royal duke hunted last on Dartmoor I have been unable to ascertain. - -The red deer were anciently common on Dartmoor. It was not till King -John's reign that Devon was disafforested, with the exception of -Dartmoor and Exmoor. But the deer were mischievous to the crops of the -farmer, and to the young plantations, and farmers, yeomen, and squires -combined to get rid of them from Dartmoor. Still, however, occasionally -one runs from Exmoor and takes refuge in the woods about the Dart, the -Plym, and the Tavy. - -But it is for fox, hare, and otter hunting that the sportsman goes to -Dartmoor, and not for the deer. A very pretty sight it is to see a pack -with the scarlet coats after it sweeping over the moorside in pursuit -of Reynard, and to hear the music of the hounds and horns. - -For the harriers the great week is that after hare-hunting is at an -end in the lowlands or "in-country." Then the several packs that have -hunted through the season on the circumference of the moor unite on it, -and take turns through the week on the moor itself. The great day of -that week is Bellever Day, when the meet is on the tor of that name. I -have described it in my _Book of the West_, and will not repeat what -has been already related. But I will venture to quote an account of -otter-hunting on the Dart from the pen of Mr. William Collier, than -whom no one has been more of an enthusiast for sport on the moor. - - "The West Dart is the perfection of a Dartmoor river, flowing - bright and rapid over a bed of granite boulders richly covered with - moss and lichen, its banks bedecked with ferns and wild flowers of - the moor, and fringed with the bog-myrtle and withy. - - [Illustration: SHEEPS TOR] - - "Water holds scent well, and the whiff so fragrant to the nose of - the hound rises to the surface and floats down stream, calling - forth his musical chant of praise. For this reason otter-hunters - draw up stream, and before the lair of the otter is reached the - welkin rings with the music of the pack. The otter has left his - trail on the banks, and on the stones where he has landed when - fishing, his spoor can be seen freshly printed on a sandy nook, - and he is very likely to be found in a well-known and remarkably - safe holt, as they call it in the West, about half a mile above - Dart Meet, which he shares at times with foxes, though his access - to it is under water, and theirs, of course, above. If he were but - wise enough to stay there he might defy his legitimate enemies - to do their worst. But he knows not man or his little ways, and - he has heard the unwonted strain of the hounds as they have been - crying over his footsteps hard by. They mark him in his retreat, - and the whole pack proclaim that he is in the otter's parlour, the - strongest place on the river. It is in a large rock hanging over a - deep, dark pool, in a corner made by a turn in the river, with an - old battered oak tree growing somehow from the midst, and backed by - a confused jumble of granite blocks. The artist and the fisherman - both admire this spot, though for totally different reasons, but - the hunter likes it not, for he knows too well that if he runs - the fox or the otter here his sport is over. A fox or an otter if - run here is likely to stay; he has experienced the dangers and - wickedness of the world at large; but if found here in his quiet - and repose he takes alarm at the unusual turmoil, and incontinently - bolts. The otter is known to have a way in under water, where no - terrier can go, and he is so far safer than the fox. The most - arduous otter-hunters, therefore, when the hounds mark, plunge - up to their necks in the water to frighten him out with their - otter-poles. He has long known the Dart as a quiet, peaceable, - happy hunting-ground; and he makes the fatal mistake of bolting, - little recking what a harrying awaits him for the next four hours. - There immediately arises a yell of 'Hoo-gaze!' the view halloo of - the otter-hunter, probably an older English hunting halloo than - 'Tally ho!' and the din of the hounds and terriers, the human - scream, and the horn, like Bedlam broken loose, which he hears - behind him, make him hurry up-stream as best he may. The master of - the hounds, if he knows his business, will now call for silence, - and, taking out his watch, will give the otter what he calls a - quarter of an hour's law. It is wonderful how fond sportsmen are - of law; perhaps there is an affinity between prosecuting a case - and pursuing a chase. He wants the otter to go well away from his - parlour, and his object for the rest of the day will be to keep - him out of it. If he is a real good sporting otter-hunter he will - tell his field that he wants his hounds to kill the otter without - assistance from them; for in the West of England the vice of - mobbing the otter is too common, with half the field in the water, - hooting, yelling, poking with otter-poles, mixing the wrong scent - (their own) with the right, making the water muddy, and turning the - river into a brawling brook with a vengeance. The true otter-hunter - only wants his huntsman and whip, and perhaps a very knowing and - trustworthy friend, besides himself, to help in hunting the otter - _with his hounds_, and not with men. The master gives the chase a - good quarter of an hour by the clock; and, leaving the unearthly, - or perhaps too earthly sounds behind him, the otter makes up-stream - as fast as he can go. It is surprising how far an otter can get - in the time, but fear lends speed to his feet. Then begins the - prettiest part of the sport. The hounds are laid on, they dash into - the river, and instantly open in full cry. The water teems with the - scent of the otter; but the deep pools, rapid stickles, and rocky - boulders over which the river foams hinder the pace. There is ample - time to admire the spirit-stirring and beautiful scene. The whole - pack swimming a black-looking pool under a beetling tor in full - chorus; now and then an encouraging note on the horn; the echoes - of the deep valley; the foaming and roaring Dart flowing down from - above; the rich colour from the fern, the gorse, the heather, the - moss, and the wild flowers; a few scattered weather-beaten oaks and - fir trees, and the stately tors aloft, striking on the eye and ear, - make one feel that otter-hunting on Dartmoor is indeed a sport. - - "The Dart is a large river, for a Dartmoor stream, and presents - many obstacles to the hounds; but they pursue the chase for some - distance, and at length stop and mark, as they did before. The - otter has got out of hearing, and has rested in a lair known to - him under the river-bank. The terriers and an otter-pole dislodge - him, and the sport becomes fast and furious. He is seen in all - directions, sometimes apparently in two places at once, which makes - the novice think there are two or three otters afoot. 'Hoo-gaze!' - is now often heard, as one or another catches sight of him, and - the field become very noisy and excited. It is still the object - to run him up-stream, whilst he now finds it easier to swim down. - 'Look out below!' is therefore heard in the fine voice of the - master. There is a trusty person down-stream watching a shallow - stickle, where the otter must be seen if he passes. Suddenly the - clamour ceases, and silence prevails. The otter has mysteriously - disappeared, and he has to be fresh found. The master is in no - hurry. There is too much scent in the water of various sorts, - and he will be glad to pause till it has floated away. He takes - his hounds down-stream. The trusty man says the otter has not - passed; but this makes no difference. Some way further down, - with a wave of his hand, he sends all the hounds into the river - again with a dash. They draw up-stream again, pass the trusty man - still at his post, and reach the spot where the otter vanished. - The river is beautifully clear again, and an old hound marks. A - good hour, perhaps, has been lost, or rather spent, since the - otter disappeared, and here he has been in one of his under-water - dry beds. He is routed out by otter-poles, and liveliness again - prevails, especially when he takes to the land to get down-stream - by cutting off a sharp curve in the river--a way he has learnt in - his frogging expeditions--and the hounds run him then like a fox. - He is only too glad to plunge headlong into the river again, and - he has reached it below the trusty man, who, however, goes down to - the next shallow, and takes with him some others to turn the otter - up from his safe parlour. They are hunting him now in a long deep - pool, where he shifts from bank to bank, moving under water whilst - the hounds swim above. He has a large supply of air in his lungs, - which he vents as he uses it, and which floats to the surface in a - series of bubbles. Otter-hunters calls it his chain, and it follows - him wherever he goes, betraying his track in the muddiest water. He - craftily puts his nose, his nose only, up to get a fresh supply of - air now and then, under a bush or behind a rock, and then owners of - sharp eyes call 'Hoo-gaze!' He finds himself in desperate straits, - and he makes up his mind to go for his parlour at all hazards; but - the hounds catch sight of him in the shallow of the trusty man, - and the chase comes to an end. Otters are never speared in the - West."[22] - -And now to return to Sheeps Tor and the picturesque village that -nestles under it. - -The one building-stone is granite, grey and soft of tone. The village -is small, and consists of a few cottages about the open space before -the church. - -This latter is of the usual moorland type, and in the Perpendicular -style. Observe above the porch the curious carved stone, formerly -forming part of a sun-dial, and dated 1640. It represents wheat growing -out of a skull, and bears the inscription-- - -"Mors janua vitæ." - -This church has most unfortunately been vulgarised internally. It -once possessed not only a magnificent roodscreen, rich with gold and -colour, but also a fifteenth-century carved pulpit that matched with -the screen. The church was delivered over to a Tavistock builder to -make watertight, as cheaply as might be, and he succeeded triumphantly -in transforming what was once a treasury of art into a desolation. A -few poor fragments of the screen have been set up in the church by the -vicar, with an appeal to visitors to do something to obliterate the -infamy of its destruction by a restoration out of what little remains. -Most fortunately, working drawings were taken of the screen before its -destruction. I give not only a drawing to scale of a bay as it was, -but also of a bay as it should be if restored, for the vaulting had -disappeared before its final ruin and removal. Near the church stood -formerly the old vicarage, a mediæval dwelling, intact, with its oak, -nail-studded door and its panelled walls. This also has been destroyed. - - -[Illustration: PORTION OF SCREEN, SHEEPS TOR] - -What of old times still remains is the bull-ring to the south-east of -the church. On the churchyard wall sat the principal parishioners, as -in a dress circle. Near by is S. Leonard's Well, but it possesses no -architectural interest. - -In Burra Tor Wood is a pretty waterfall. Burra Tor was the residence -of Rajah Brooke when in England. It had been presented to him by the -Baroness Burdett Coutts and other admirers. In Sheeps Tor churchyard he -lies, but Burra Tor has been sold since his death. - -Above the wood stands Roman's Cross, probably called after S. Rumon or -Ruan, whose body lay at Tavistock. There is another Rumon's Cross on -Lee Moor. - -The drive from Douseland round Yennadon, above the dam and the -reservoir, to Sheeps Tor village, is hardly to be surpassed for beauty -anywhere on the moor. - -A walk that will richly repay the pedestrian is one up the valley of -the Narra Tor Brook, between Sheeps Tor and Down Tor. He follows the -Devonport leat till he reaches the turn on the right to Nosworthy -Bridge. He passes Vinneylake, where are two interesting _caches_, one -cut out of the conglomerate rubble brought down from the decomposed -rocks above. This is now used as a turnip-house, but it is to be -suspected it was anciently employed as a private still-house. In a -field hard by is another, more like some of the Cornish structural -fogous. It is roofed over with slabs of granite. - -The ascent of Deancombe presents many peeps of great beauty. At the -farm the road comes to an end, and here the tor must be ascended. -East of Down Tor is a very fine stone row, starting from a circle of -stones inclosing a cairn, and extending in the direction of a large, -much-disturbed cairn. There is a blocking-stone at the eastern end, and -a menhir by the ring of stones at the west end of the row. The length -is 1,175 feet. - -I visited this row with the late Mr. Lukis in 1880, when we found that -men had been recently engaged on the row with crowbars. They had thrown -down the two largest stones at the head. We appealed to Sir Massey -Lopes, and he stopped the destruction of the monument, and since then -Mr. R. Burnard and I have re-erected the stones then thrown down. - -On the slope of Coombshead Tor are numerous hut circles and a pound. - -From the stone row a walk along the ridge of the moor leads to Nun's -Cross. This bore on it the inscription, "CRUX SIWARDI." It is very -rude; it stands 7 feet 4 inches high, and is fixed in a socket cut in a -block of stone sunk in the ground. It was overthrown and broken about -1846, but was restored by the late Sir Ralph Lopes. By whom and for -what cause it was overthrown never transpired. The inscription with the -name of Siward is now difficult to decipher. On the other side of the -cross is "BOC--LOND"--three letters forming one line, and the remaining -four another, directly under it. The cross is alluded to in a deed of -1240 as then standing. - -[Illustration: ON THE MEAVY] - -Nun's Cross is probably a corruption of Nant Cross, the cross at the -head of the _nant_ or valley. The whole of Newleycombe Lake has been -extensively streamed. The hill to the north is dense with relics of -an ancient people. Roundy Farm, now in ruins, takes its name from the -pounds which contributed to form the walls of its inclosures, many of -which follow the old circular erections that once inclosed a primeval -village. The ruined farmhouse bears the initials of a Crymes, a family -once as great as that of the Elfords, but now gone. It is interesting -to know that the farmer's wife of Kingset, that now includes Roundy -Farm, was herself a Crymes. One very perfect hut circle here was for -long used as a potato garden. - -Hard by is Clakeywell Pool, by some called Crazy-well. It is an old -mine-work, now filled with water. It covers nearly an acre, and the -banks are in part a hundred feet high. According to popular belief, at -certain times at night a loud voice is heard calling from the water in -articulate tones, naming the next person who is to die in the parish. -At other times what are heard are howls as of a spirit in torment. -The sounds are doubtless caused by a swirl of wind in the basin that -contains the pond. An old lady, now deceased, told me how that as a -child she dreaded going near this tarn--she lived at Shaugh--fearing -lest she should hear the voice calling her by name. - -The idea of mysterious voices is a very old one. The schoolboy will -recall the words of Virgil in the first _Georgic_:-- - -"Vox ... per lucos vulgo exaudita silentes Ingens." - -The "wisht hounds" that sweep overhead in the dark barking are -brent-geese going north or returning south. They have given occasion to -many stories of strange voices in the sky. - -In Ceylon the devil-bird has been the source of much superstitious -terror. - -A friend who has long lived in Ceylon says: "Never shall I forget when -first I heard it. I was at dinner, when suddenly the wildest, most -agonised shrieks pierced my ear. I was under the impression that a -woman was being murdered outside my house. I snatched up a cudgel and -ran forth to her aid, but saw no one." The natives regard this cry of -the mysterious devil-bird with the utmost fear. They believe that to -hear it is a sure presage of death; and they are not wrong. When they -have heard it, they pine to death, killed by their own conviction that -life is impossible. - -Autenrieth, professor and physician at Tübingen, in 1822 published a -treatise on _Aërial Voices_, in which he collected a number of strange -accounts of mysterious sounds heard in the sky, and which he thought -could not all be deduced from the cries of birds at night. He thus -generalises the sounds:-- - - "They are heard sometimes flying in this direction, then in the - opposite through the air; mostly, they are heard as though coming - down out of the sky; but at other times as if rising from the - ground. They resemble occasionally various musical instruments; - occasionally also the clash of arms, or the rattle of drums, or the - blare of trumpets. Sometimes they are like the tramp of horses, - or the discharge of distant artillery. But sometimes, also, they - consist in an indescribably hollow, thrilling, sudden scream. - Very commonly they resemble all kinds of animal tones, mostly the - barking of dogs. Quite as often they consist in a loud call, so - that the startled hearer believes himself to be called by name, - and to hear articulate words addressed to him. In some instances, - Greeks have believed they were spoken to in the language of Hellas, - whereas Romans supposed they were addressed in Latin. The modern - Highlanders distinctly hear their vernacular Gaelic. These aërial - voices accordingly are so various that they can be interpreted - differently, according to the language of the hearer, or his inner - conception of what they might say." - -The Jews call the mysterious voice that falls from the heaven Bathkol, -and have many traditions relative to it. The sound of arms and of drums -and artillery may safely be set down to the real vibrations of arms, -drums, and artillery at a great distance, carried by the wind. - -In the desert of Gobi, which divides the mountainous snow-clad plateau -of Thibet from the milder regions of Asia, travellers assert that they -have heard sounds high up in the sky as of the clash of arms or of -musical martial instruments. If travellers fall to the rear or get -separated from the caravan, they hear themselves called by name. If -they go after the voice that summons them, they lose themselves in the -desert. Sometimes they hear the tramp of horses, and taking it for that -of their caravan, are drawn away, and wander from the right course and -become hopelessly lost. The old Venetian traveller Marco Polo mentions -these mysterious sounds, and says that they are produced by the spirits -that haunt the desert. They are, however, otherwise explicable. On a -vast plain the ear loses the faculty of judging direction and distance -of sounds; it fails to possess, so to speak, acoustic perspective. When -a man has dropped away from the caravan, his comrades call to him; but -he cannot distinguish the direction whence their voices come, and he -goes astray after them. - -Rubruquis, whom Louis IX. sent in 1253 to the court of Mongu-Khan, the -Mongol chief, says that in the Altai Mountains, that fringe the desert -of Gobi, demons try to lure travellers astray. As he was riding among -them one evening with his Mongol guide, he was exhorted by the latter -to pray, because otherwise mishaps might occur through the demons that -haunted the mountains luring them out of the right road. - -Morier, the Persian traveller, at the beginning of this century speaks -of the salt desert near Khom. On it, he says, travellers are led astray -by the cry of the goblin Ghul, who, when he has enticed them from the -road, rends them with his claws. Russian accounts of Kiev in the -beginning of the nineteenth century mention an island lying in a salt -marsh between the Caspian and the Aral Sea, where, in the evening, loud -sounds are heard like the baying of hounds, and hideous cries as well; -consequently the island is reputed to be haunted, and no one ventures -near it. - -That the Irish banshee may be traced to an owl admits of little -doubt; the description of the cries so closely resembles what is -familiar to those who live in an owl-haunted district, as to make the -identification all but certain. Owls are capricious birds. One can -never calculate on them for hooting. Weeks will elapse without their -letting their notes be heard, and then all at once for a night or two -they will be audible, and again become silent--even for months. - -The river Dart is said to cry. The sound is a peculiarly weird one; it -is heard only when the wind is blowing down its deep valley, and is -produced by the compression of the air in the winding passage. Whether -it is calling for its annual tribute of a human life, I do not know, -but of the river it is said:-- - - "The Dart, the Dart--the cruel Dart - Every year demands a heart!" - -To return to our walk. - -If the path be taken leading back to Nosworthy Bridge, beside and in -the road will be seen several mould-stones for tin. - -Leather Tor is a fine pile of ruined granite. I have been informed -that great quantities of flints have been found there, showing that at -this spot there was a manufacturing of silex weapons and tools. - -From Sheeps Tor the Drizzlecombe remains are reached with great -ease. Here, near a tributary of the Plym, are three stone rows -and two fine menhirs, a kistvaen, a large tumulus, and beside the -stream a blowing-house with its mould-stones. Two of the rows are -single, but one is double for a portion of its length only. There are -blocking-stones and menhirs to each. The row connected with the great -menhir is 260 feet long. - -Sheeps Tor has been brought into the world by the construction of the -reservoir. Formerly it was a place very much left to itself. There the -old fiddler hung on who played venerable tunes, to which the people -danced their old country dances. These latter may still be seen there, -but, alas! the aged fiddler is dead. At one time it was a great musical -centre, and it was asserted that two-thirds of the male population were -in the church choir, acting either as singers or as instrumentalists. - -We will now turn our steps towards Meavy. - -Here is a house that belonged to the Drake family, half pulled down, a -village cross under a very ancient oak, and a church in good condition. - -There is some very early rude carving at the chancel arch in a pink -stone, whence derived has not been ascertained. - -Marchant's Cross is at the foot of the steep ascent to Ringmoor Down. -It is the tallest of all the moor crosses, being no less than 8 feet 2 -inches in height. - -Another cross is in the hedge on Lynch Common. - -[Illustration: CHANCEL CAPITAL, MEAVY.] - -Trowlesworthy Warren is situated among hut circles and inclosures. -There is a double stone row on the southern slope, but it has been -sadly mutilated. The whole of the neighbouring moors are strewn with -primeval habitations. - -On Lee Moor and Headon Down may be seen the production of kaolin. - -William Cookworthy, born at Kingsbridge in Devon, in 1705, was one of a -large family. His father lost all his property in South Sea stock, and -died leaving his widow to rear the children as best she might. They -were Quakers, and help was forthcoming from the Friends. William kept -his eyes about him, and discovered the china-clay which is found to so -large an extent in Devon and Cornwall, and he laid the foundation of -the kaolin trade between 1745 and 1750. One of the first places where -he identified the clay was on Tregonning Hill in S. Breage parish, -Cornwall, and to his dying day he was unaware of the enormous deposits -on Lee Moor close to his Plymouth home. - -He took out a patent in 1768 for the manufacture of Plymouth china, -specimens of which are now eagerly sought after. - -Kaolin is dissolved feldspar, deposited from the granite which has -yielded to atmospheric and aqueous influences. - -The white clay is dug out of pits and then is washed in tanks, in which -the clayey sediment is collected. This sediment has, however, first to -be purged of much of its mica and coarser particles as the stream in -which it is dissolved is conveyed slowly over shallow "launders." - -At the bottom of the pits are plugs, and so soon as the settled kaolin -is sufficiently thick, these plugs are withdrawn, and the clay, now of -the consistency of treacle, is allowed to flow into tanks at a lower -level. Here it remains for three weeks or a month to thicken, when -it is transferred to the "dry," a long shed with a well-ventilated -roof, and with a furnace at one end and flues connected with it that -traverse the whole "dry" and discharge into a chimney at the further -end of the building. On the floor of this shed the clay rapidly dries, -and it is then removed in spadefuls and packed in barrels or bags, or -merely tossed into trucks for lading vessels. The clay is now white -as snow, and is employed either in the Staffordshire potteries for -the manufacture of porcelain, or else for bleaching--that is to say, -for thickening calicoes, and for putting a surface on paper. Some is -employed in the manufacture of alum; a good deal goes to Paris to be -served up as the white sugar of confectionery, and it is hinted that -not a little is employed in the adulteration of flour. America, as -well, imports it for the manufacture of artificial teeth. - -Great heaps of white refuse will be seen about the china-clay works; -these are composed of the granitic sandy residuum. Of this there are -several qualities, and it is sold to plasterers and masons, and the -coarsest is gladly purchased for gravelling garden walks. The water -that flows from the clay works is white as milk, and has a peculiar -sweet taste. Cows are said to drink it with avidity. The full pans in -drying present a metallic blue or green glaze on the surface. - -The kaolin sent to Staffordshire travels by boat from Plymouth to -Runcorn, where it is transhipped on to barges on the Bridgewater Canal, -and is so conveyed to the belt of pottery towns, Burslem, Hanley, -Stoke, and Longton. - -The Dewerstone towers up at the junction of the Meavy and the Plym. On -the side of the Plym there are sheer precipices of granite standing up -as church spires above the brawling river. The face towards the Meavy -is less abrupt, and it is on this side that an ascent can be made, but -it is a scramble. - -On reaching the top, it will be seen that the headland has been -fortified by a double rampart of stone thrown across the neck of land. -Wigford Down is in the rear, with kistvaens and tumuli and hut circles -on it. - -The visitor should descend in the direction of Goodameavy, and thence -follow down the river that abounds in beautiful scenes. It was formerly -believed that a wild hunter appeared on the summit of Dewerstone, -attended by his black dogs, blowing a horn. From Dewerstone the visitor -may walk to Bickleigh Station, and take the train for Tavistock, which -I have written about in my _Book of the West_, and will not re-describe -in the present work. - -FOOTNOTES: - -[21] I have given it, with the original air, in the _Garland of Country -Song_. Methuen. - -[22] Slightly curtailed from W. F. COLLIER, _Country Matters in Short_. -Duckworth, London, 1899. - - - - -CHAPTER XVI. - -POST BRIDGE - - A filled-up lake-bed--Stannon--The great central - trackway--Destruction of monuments--Cyclopean - bridge--Blowing-house--Another up the river--Cut Hill--The - Jack-o'-lantern--The maid and the lantern--Gathering - lichens--Dyes--The coral moss--Birds--The cuckoo--The wren--Rooks - and daddy longlegs--The Lych Way--Bellever Tor. - - -A colony about a school-chapel and a few deformed beech trees in a -basin among tors constitute Post Bridge. - -Here the East Dart flows through a filled-up lake-bed, and passes away -by a narrow cleft that it has sawn for itself through the granite. - -The beech trees were planted at the same time that two lodges were -erected by a gentleman called Hullett, who was induced to believe that -he could convert a portion of Dartmoor into paradise. He purposed -building a mansion at Stannon, and actually began the house. But by the -time the lodges were set up and a wing of his house, he had discovered -that Dartmoor would spell ruin, and he threw up his attempt. And -Dartmoor will spell ruin unless approached and treated in the only -suitable manner. It will pasture cattle and feed ponies and sheep, but -it will never grow corn and roots. - -The great central causeway crossed the modern road near the Dissenting -chapel, and may be traced in the marsh aiming for the river, beyond -which it ascends the hill and strikes along the brow behind Archerton. -It is paved, and is a continuation of the old Fosse Way. It is -certainly not Roman work, but British. - -Post Bridge has been termed, not accurately, a prehistoric metropolis -of the moor. This is because round the ancient lake-bed were numerous -pounds containing hut circles. Most of these have now been destroyed, -yet one remains perfect--Broadun; and adjoining it is Broadun Ring, -where the outer circle of the inclosure has been pulled down, but -a considerable number of the huts has been spared. There remain -indications of fifteen of these inclosures. More have certainly been -destroyed. - -Lake-head Hill has been almost denuded of the monuments that once -crowded it. They were systematically removed by the farmer at Bellever. -Happily one kistvaen has been left on the summit, and there are two or -three others, small and ruinous, on the sides. - -The "cyclopean bridge" over the Dart is composed of rude masses of -granite maintained in position by their own weight. It was the old -pack-horse bridge. - -There are other bridges of the same description; one is on the stream -at Bellever, one under Bairdown. But a structure of this sort is the -simplest and most easily reared on Dartmoor, where lime is not found, -and has to be brought at great expense from a distance. - -Great numbers of worked flints are found in this neighbourhood, and a -bronze ferrule to a spear was dug up a few years ago in Gawlor Bottom. - -A little way, but a few steps below the bridge, on the west side, is -a comparatively modern blowing-house; two mould-stones for tin may be -seen there lying among the nettles. This house is built with mortar -and is of considerable size, whereas the ancient blowing-houses are -very small, and no lime has been employed in their construction. One of -these with a _cache_ may be found in the midst of the tinners' heaps -if the Dart be followed up to where it makes a sudden bend and comes -from the east. Here a tongue of hill stands out above it, and a stream -sweeps down from the north to join it. A very short distance up this -stream is the blowing-house with a beehive _cache_. - -If this stream be pursued, and Sittaford Tor be aimed at, then a few -hundred yards to the right of the tor the Grey Wethers will be found, -two very fine circles in contact with one another; but the stones of -one are nearly all down. - -If the Ordnance Sheet XCIX., N.W., be taken, and the ridge followed -north-west along the line indicated by bench-marks, Cut Hill will -finally be attained, which is all bog, but which has a gash cut in it -to afford a passage through the moors from Okehampton to Post Bridge. -This expedition will take the visitor into some of the wildest and most -desolate portions of the northern half of Dartmoor. - -Many years ago the question was mooted in, I think, the _Times_, -whether there were really such things as Jack-o'-lanterns. - -Few instances can be recorded where this _ignis fatuus_ has been seen -on Dartmoor, probably because so few cattle are lost in the bogs there. -I was told by a man accustomed to draw turf, that he has seen the legs -and belly of the horse as though on fire, where it had been splashed by -the peat water. - -I walked one night from Plymouth to Tavistock across Roborough Down, -before it was inclosed and built upon, and I then saw a little blue -flame dancing on a pool. I went on my knees and crept close to it, to -make quite sure what it was, and that it was not a glow-worm. - -Mr. Coaker, of Sherberton, informs me that he has on several occasions -seen the Jack-o'-lantern. There is a bit of marshy land where rises -Muddy Lake, near the road from Princetown to Ashburton, and he has seen -it there. Sometimes, according to his account, it appears like the -flash of a lantern, and then disappears, and presently flashes again. -It has also been seen by him in the boggy ground of Slade by Huccaby -Bridge. There, on one occasion, he made his way towards it. From a -distance the light seemed to be considerable, but as he approached it -appeared only as a small flame. - -The Rev. T. E. Fox, curate, living at Post Bridge, and serving the -little chapel there and that at Huccaby, has also seen it, in Brimpts, -hovering, a greenish-blue flame, about three feet above the soil; and a -woman living near informs me that she also has noticed it in the same -place.[23] - -[Illustration: LAKE-HEAD, KISTVAEN] - -The reader must excuse me if I tell the tales just as told to me, and -mix up facts with what I consider fictions. I cannot doubt that these -lights have been seen by others as well as by myself, and I am not -surprised if here and there some superstition has attached itself to -these phenomena. - -The following story is told in the parish of Broad-woodwidger, where is -a field in which, it is asserted, Will-o'-the-wisp is seen. - -The farmer's son was delicate, and in haymaking time assisted in the -work, and I have no doubt, notwithstanding his feeble lungs, in making -sweet hay with the maidens. However, he over-exerted himself, broke a -blood-vessel, and died. Ever since a blue flame has been seen dancing -in this field, and even on the top of the haycocks. - -The tale I have heard told, as a child, of a blue flame being seen -leaving the churchyard and travelling down the lanes or roads to a -certain door, and there waiting and returning accompanied by another -flame, which appeared simultaneously with a death occurring in the -house, is doubtless a distortion of a fact that such a flame as the -Jack-o'-lantern _does_ occasionally appear in graveyards. - -A miner engaged at the Whiteworks crossed the moor on a Saturday to -Cornwood, to see a brother who was dangerously ill, and started to -return somewhat late on the Sunday afternoon. In consequence, night -overtook him on the moor; he became entangled among the bogs, and was -in sore distress, unable to proceed or to retreat. - -Being an eminently God-fearing man, he took off his cap and prayed. - -All at once a little light sprang up and moved forward. He knew -that this was a Will-o'-the-wisp, and that it was held to lead into -dangerous places; but his confidence in Providence was so strong, and -so assured was he that the light was sent in answer to his prayer, -that he followed it. He was conducted over ground fairly firm, though -miry, till he reached heather and a sound footing, whereupon the flame -vanished. Thanking God, he pursued his way, taking his direction by the -stars, and reached his destination in safety. - -"I tell the tale as 'twas told to me," but I will not vouch for the -truth of it, as I did not hear it from the man himself, nor did I know -him personally, so as to judge whether his word could be trusted. - -Here, however, is an instance on which implicit reliance can be placed. - -Mr. W. Bennett Dawe, of Hill, near Ashburton, together with his family, -saw one on several nights in succession in the autumn of 1898. The -month of September had been very hot and dry, and this was succeeded -by a heavy rainfall in October during twenty-three days. The mean -temperature of the month was 54·7, being 4° above the average of twenty -years. The warm damp season following on the heated ground and the -boggy deposits in the Dart valley resulted in the generation of a good -deal of decomposition. Mr. Dawe and several of his household observed -at night a light of a phosphorescent nature in the meadows between -Ashburton and Pridhamsleigh. It appeared to hover a little above the -ground and dance to and fro, then race off in another direction, as if -affected by currents of air. This was watched during several evenings, -and the members of his family were wont as darkness fell to go out and -observe it. The meadows are on deep alluvial soil, formerly marsh, and -were drained perhaps sixty years ago. - -The same gentleman saw a similar flame in the form of a ball some forty -years previously in the low and then marshy valley between Tor Abbey -gateway and the Paignton road, near where is now the Devon Rosery. -The valley was then undrained. The gas generated, which catches fire -on rising to the surface, is phosphoretted hydrogen, and is certainly -evolved by decay of animal matter in water; if occasionally seen in -churchyards it is probably after continued rain, when the graves have -become sodden. - -Jack-o'-lantern is called in Yorkshire Peggy-wi'-t'-wisp; consequently -the treacherous, misleading character is there attributed to a sprite -of that sex which has misled man from the first moment she appeared on -earth--who never rested till she had led him out of the terrestrial -paradise into one of her own making. - -I was talking about this one evening in a little tavern, over the fire, -to a Cornishman, when he laughed and volunteered a song. It was one, -he said, that was employed as a test to see whether a man were sober -enough to be able to repeat the numbers correctly that followed at the -close of each stanza.[24] - - "As I trudged on at ten at night - My way to fair York city, - I saw before a lantern light - Borne by a damsel pretty. - I her accos't, 'My way I've lost, - Your lantern let me carry! - Then through the land, both hand in hand, - We'll travel. Prithee tarry.' - 20, 18, 16, 14, 12, 10, 8, 6, 4, 2, - 19, 17, 15, 13, 11, 9, 7, 5, 3, 1. - - "She tripp'd along, so nimble she, - The lantern still a-swinging, - And 'Follow, follow, follow me!' - Continually was singing. - 'Thy footsteps stay!' She answered, 'Nay!' - 'Your name? You take my fancy.' - She laughing said, nor turn'd her head, - 'I'm only Northern Nancy.' - 20, 18, 16, etc. - - "She sped along, I in the lurch, - A lost and panting stranger, - Till, lo! I found me at the Church, - She'd led me out of danger. - 'Ring up the clerk,' she said; 'yet hark! - Methinks here comes the pass'n; - He'll make us one, then thou art done; - He'll thee securely fasten.' - 20, 18, 16, etc. - - "'Man is a lost and vagrant clown - That should at once be pounded,' - She said, and laid the matter down - With arguments well grounded. - For years a score, and even more, - I've lain in wedlock's fetter, - Faith! she was right; here, tied up tight, - I could not have fared better. - 20, 18, 16, etc." - -An industry on Dartmoor that has become completely extinct is the -collection of lichen from the rocks for the use of the dyers. There -exists in MS. an interesting book by a Dr. Tripe, of Ashburton, -recording what he saw and did each day, at the close of last century. -He says that he observed women scraping off the lichen from the rocks -near the Drewsteignton cromlech. This they sold to the dyers, who dried -it, reduced it to powder, and treated it with a solution of tin in -_aqua fortis_ and another ingredient, when a most vivid scarlet dye -was produced. The lichen is called botanically _Lichinoides saxatile_. -Other lichens were employed to give purple and yellow colours. The -cudbear and crab's-eye lichens (_Lecanora tartarea_ and _Lecanora -parella_) gave a dye of a royal purple, and the two species called -_Parmelia saxatilis_ and _Parmelia omphalodes_ gave a yellowish brown. -Moss also was employed for the purpose; the _Hypnum cupressiforme_ -yielded a rich reddish brown. - -"Lichens and mosses," says Mr. Parfitt, "are the pioneers of the -vegetable kingdom in attacking the hard and almost impenetrable rocks, -and so preparing the way for the more noble plants--the trees and -shrubs--by gradual disintegration, and by adding their own dead bodies -to the soil, enrich it for the food of others."[25] - -It is marvellous to see how the lichen attaches itself to the granite. -A harshly glaring piece that the quarrymen have cut is touched with -fine specks that spread into black and crocus-yellow circles, and -tone down the stone to a sober tint. Unhappily of late years there has -been much firing of the furze and heather on the moor, and the flames -destroy the beautiful lichens and mosses, and leave the old stones -white and ghostly, not to be reclothed with the old tints for centuries. - -I do not think that we have any idea of the slowness with which the -lichens spread; a century to them is nothing--it passes as a watch in -the night. There is a granite post I often go by. It was set up just -seventy years ago, and on it the largest golden circle of the _Physcia -parietina_ has attained the diameter of an inch. Mr. Parfitt mentions -in connection with it a rocky crag at Baggy Point, North Devon, where -it covers the whole surface with a coat of golden colour. It spreads -more rapidly on slate than it does on granite, and especially on such -slates as are liable to rapid disintegration. The Woodland and the -Coryton slates are readily attacked by it. The growth begins with a -splash about the size of a sixpence, and increases to that of a plate, -when the centre breaks up, and the ring becomes detached in fragments -which meet others, and so appear to cover the rock or roof. - -One of the most beautiful of the lichens on the moor is the coral -moss, _Sphærophoron coralloides_. It is a pale greenish-white, -upright-growing lichen, that forms a cup, and somewhat resembles an -old Venetian wineglass. Then points of brilliant scarlet form round -the lip of the cup, and increase in size till the whole presents a -wonderful appearance as of sealing-wax splashed over the soil. It is -not confined to the moorland, but grows also in woods, where there -has been a clearance made. I came upon a wonderful carpet of sprinkled -scarlet and white on one occasion, where there was a woodman's track -through an old oak coppice. But it must be capricious, for of late -years when searching for it in the same spot I have found no more. The -black coral moss is scarce, but it has been found about Lynx and Yes -Tors. - -The birds on Dartmoor have a hard time of it, not only because of -the guns levelled at them, but because of the "swaling" or burning -of the moor, which takes place at the time when they are nesting. In -East Anglia there are along the coast the "bird tides," as the people -say. At that period when the plovers and sea-mews are nesting in the -marshes, there are unusually low tides, a provision of God, so it is -held, for the protection of the feathered creatures whilst laying and -hatching out their eggs. So the ancients told of the halcyon days -when the gods had pity on the seabirds, and smoothed seven to eleven -days in the winter solstice, that they might with safety hatch their -young. But on Dartmoor man has none of this pity; he selects the very -time when the poor birds are sitting in their nests on their eggs, or -are cherishing their callow young, for enveloping them in flames. The -buzzard, the hen-harrier, and the sparrow-hawk are now chiefly seen in -the most lonely portions of the moor. Gulls visit it on the approach -of stormy weather; but the ring-ouzel is there throughout the year. -The golden and grey plovers are abundant; the pipe of the curlew may -be heard; black grouse and quail may be shot, as also snipe. By the -water, that living jewel the kingfisher can be observed watching for -his prey, and about every farm the blue tit, called locally the hicky -maul or hicka noddy, is abundant. The sand martin breeds in a few -places. The heron has a place where she builds at Archerton. - -The snow bunting and cirl bunting are met with occasionally. - -The cuckoo is heard on the moor before he visits the lowlands. "March, -he sits on his perch; April, he tunes his bill; May, he sings all day; -June, he alters his tune, and July, away he do fly." So say the people. - -One of the freshest and most delicious of Devonshire folk-melodies is -that connected with a song about the cuckoo. - - "The cuckoo is a pretty bird, - She sings as she flies; - She bringeth good tidings, - She telleth no lies. - She sucketh sweet flowers - To keep her voice clear, - And when she sings 'Cuckoo' - The summer draweth near."[26] - -There is a saying among the country folk:-- - - "Kill a robin or a wren, - Never prosper, boy or man." - -The wren is said to be the king of all birds. The story told to account -for this is that the birds once assembled to elect a sovereign, and -agreed that that one of the feathered creation who soared highest -should be esteemed king. The eagle mounted, and towered aloft high -above the rest, but was outwitted by the wren, who, unobserved and -unfelt, had hopped on to the eagle's back. - -The birds were so distressed and angry at the trick that they resolved -to drown the wren in their tears. Accordingly they procured a pan into -which each bird in turn wept. When it was nearly full the blundering -old owl came up. "With such big eyes," said the birds, "he will weep -great tears." But he perched on the edge of the pan and upset it. -Thenceforth the wren has reigned undisputed king of the birds. - -There is a curious story told of a wren. In one of the Irish rebellions -a party of British military were out after the enemy when, having made -a long march, they lay down to sleep and left no one to keep sentinel. -As they lay slumbering the murderous rascals stole up, creeping like -snakes in the grass and among the bushes, and would have butchered the -entire party had it not been for a wren, which, perching on the drum -belonging to the company, tapped it repeatedly with its little beak. -This roused the soldiers, they became aware of their situation, and -were able just in time to fire on their assailants and disperse them. - -In Ireland, and in Pembrokeshire and elsewhere in South Wales, it was -usual, on S. Stephen's Day or at the New Year, to put a wren in a -lantern that was decorated with ribbons and carry it about to farms and -cottages, with a song, which was repaid by a small coin. Whether such -a custom existed in Devon I cannot say; I remember nothing of the sort. - -The sparrow-hawk is often seen quivering aloft in the air. A curious -story is told of one by Mr. Elliot. - - "As is well known, not only sparrow-hawks, but other birds of prey - as well as other species, repair to the same site year after year - for nesting. This knowledge is valuable to the keepers, who look - up these haunts and try to shoot the old birds before they hatch - their eggs. On one occasion he shot the female as she came off the - nest, and this satisfied him, but on visiting the spot later he was - surprised at another female flying off; on climbing to the nest he - found that the male must have found another mate, as they had built - a second nest over and into the old one, which contained four eggs, - whilst the freshly-built nest contained five."[27] - -One has supposed hitherto that the gay widower who looked out for -another spouse after having lost the first was a product of the human -species only. - -A visitor to Dartmoor in June or July will be surprised to find flights -of rooks over it. As soon as their maternal cares are over, they desert -the rookeries on the lowland and go for change of air and diet to the -moor, where they feed on the whortleberry, possibly, but most certainly -on the daddy longlegs and its first cousin, who is the hateful wireworm -in his fully developed form. A friend one day saw a bit of the moor -dense with rooks, and surprised at their movements and excitement, -observed them closely, and discovered that they were having a glut of -daddy longlegs. The light and friable peat earth exactly suits the -wireworm in its early stages, and when the pest emerged from the soil -full blown, then the rooks were down on him before he could come to our -gardens and turnip fields to devastate them. - -The one deficiency in the soil on Dartmoor is lime. That will sweeten -the grass and enable the cattle to thrive. Bullocks and other cattle -will do on the moor, but they really need a change to land on lime -whilst they are growing. The roots of the grass and heather are -ravenous after lime, and for this reason it is that of the many -interments on the moor hardly a particle of bone remains. - -From Post Bridge starts the Lych Way, the Road of the Dead, along -which corpses were conveyed to Lydford, the parish church, until, in -1260, Bishop Bronescombe gave licence to the inhabitants of Dartmoor, -who lived nearer to Widdecombe than to Lydford, to resort thither for -baptisms and funerals. - -The Lych Way may be traced from Conies Down Tor to Whitabarrow; thence -it strikes for Hill Bridge, and so across the spur of Black Down to -Lydford church. - -When I was a boy I heard strange tales of the Lych Way--and of funerals -being seen passing over it of moonlight nights. But superstition is -dead now on Dartmoor, as elsewhere, and ghosts as well as pixies have -been banished, not as the old moormen say, by the "ding-dongs" of the -church and mission chapel bells, but by the voice of the schoolmaster. - -A walk or scramble down the Dart will take to the ruins of the Snaily -House, the story concerning which I have told elsewhere.[28] It may be -carried on to Dartmeet, where a little colony of inhabitants will be -found, and a return may be taken over Bellever Tor, a striking height -that holds its own, and seems to be the true centre of the moor. On -its slopes are several kistvaens, but all have been robbed of their -covering-stones. There is an unpleasant morass between Bellever Tor and -the high-road. - -I was witness here of a rather amusing scene. A gentleman with his -wife and a young lady friend of hers had driven out, from Princetown -or Tavistock, and when near Bellever the latter expressed a wish to -go to the summit of the tor. The gentleman looked at his better half, -who gave consent with a nod, whereupon he started with the young lady, -and his wife drove on and put up the horse at Post Bridge, then walked -back to meet the two as they returned to the high-road, on which madame -promenaded. Now, as it fell out, the husband missed his way on trying -to reach the high-road, and got to the morass, where he and the young -lady walked up and down, and every now and then he extended his hand -and helped her along from one tuft of grass to another. They went -up--got more involved--then down again, and were fully half an hour in -the morass. - -Madame paced up and down the road, glaring at her husband and the young -lady dallying on the moor, as she took it; for she was quite unable to -apprehend the reason why they did not come to her as the crow flies, -and as she considered was her due. Her pace was accelerated, her turns -sharper, her glances more indignant, as minute after minute passed. She -saw them approach, then turn and retrace their steps, gyrate, holding -each other's hands, and walk down the slope some way. Then along the -road, snorting like a war-horse, went the lady. She flourished her -parasol at them; she called, they paid no attention. Finally they -headed the swamp and arrived on the firm road. Thereupon the lady -strode forward speechless with wrath towards Post Bridge and the inn, -where a high tea was ready. Not a word would she vouchsafe to either. -Not a word of explanation would she listen to from her husband. - -Curious to see the end, I went on to Webb's Inn, and came in on the -party. - -The gentleman sat limp and crestfallen. - -An excellent tea was ready. Cold chicken, ham, whortleberry jam and -Devonshire cream. He ate nothing. - -"My dear," said madame to her husband, "you are not eating." - -"No, precious!" he replied. "I have lost my appetite." - -"But," retorted she, "the moor gives one." - -"Not to me," he responded feebly. "I don't feel well. The moor has -taken mine away." - -Obviously there had been an interview, _tête-à-tête_, before they sat -down. - -Presently I saw them drive away. - -Madame brandished the whip and held the reins, and the young lady -friend sat in front. - -Monsieur was behind, disconsolate and sniffing. - -FOOTNOTES: - -[23] I have been informed that the Jack-o'-lantern is only to be seen -after a hot summer, at the end of July, and in August and September. -As the moormen say, "When the vaen rises," _i.e._ when there is -fermentation going on in the fen or vaen. - -[24] I have had to considerably tone down the original, which was -hardly presentable if given _verbatim_. - -[25] "The Lichen Flora of Devonshire," in _Transactions of the -Devonshire Association_, 1883. - -[26] Given in _A Garland of Country Song_. Methuen, 1895. - -[27] E. A. S. Elliot, "Birds in the South Hams," _Transactions of the -Devonshire Association_, 1899. - -[28] _Dartmoor Idylls._ Methuen, 1896. - - - - -CHAPTER XVII. - -PRINCETOWN - - Sir Thomas Tyrwhitt and Princetown--A desolate spot--The - prisons--Escapes--A burglary--Merrivale Bridge and its group - of remains--Staple Tor--Walk up the Walkham to Merrivale - Bridge--Harter Tor--Black Tor logan stone--Tor Royal--Wistman's - Wood--Bairdown Man--Langstone Moor Circle--Fice's - Well--Whitchurch--Archpriests--Heath and heather--Heather - ale--White Heath. - - -King Louis XIV. selected the most barren and intractable bit of land -out of which to create Versailles, with its gardens, plantations, and -palace; and Sir Thomas Tyrwhitt chose the most inhospitable site for -the planting of a town. Sir Thomas was Black Rod, and Warden of the -Stannaries. He was a man of a sanguine temperament, for he calculated -on reaping gold where he sowed shillings, and that in Dartmoor bogs. - -At his recommendation prisons were erected at Princetown in 1806, at -a cost of £130,000, for the captives in the French and American wars. -Sir George Magrath, M.D., the physician who presided over the medical -department from 1814 until the close of the war, testified to the -salubrity of the establishment. - - "From personal correspondence with other establishments similar - to Dartmoor, I presume the statistical record of that great tomb - of the living (embosomed as it is in a desert and desolate waste - of wild, and in the winter time terrible scenery, exhibiting the - sublimity and grandeur occasionally of elemental strife, but - never partaking of the beautiful of Nature; its climate, too, - cheerless and hyperborean), with all its disadvantages, will show - that the health of its incarcerated tenants, in a general way, - equalled, if not surpassed, any war prison in England or Scotland. - This might be considered an anomaly in sanitary history, when we - reflect how un-genially it might be supposed to act on southern - constitutions; for it was not unusual in the months of December and - January for the thermometer to stand at thirty-three to thirty-five - degrees below freezing, indicating cold almost too intense to - support animal life. But the density of the congregated numbers - in the prison created an artificial climate, which counteracted - the torpifying effect of the Russian climate without. Like most - climates of extreme heat or cold, the newcomers required a - seasoning to assimilate their constitution to its peculiarities, - in the progress of which indispositions, incidental to low - temperature, assailed them; and it was an everyday occurrence - among the reprobate and incorrigible classes of the prisoners, who - gambled away their clothing and rations, for individuals to be - brought up to the receiving room in a state of suspended animation, - from which they were usually resuscitated by the process resorted - to in like circumstances in frigid regions. I believe one death - only took place during my sojourn at Dartmoor, from torpor induced - by cold, and the profligate part of the French were the only - sufferers. As soon as the system became acclimated to the region in - which they lived, health was seldom disturbed." - -There were from seven to nine thousand prisoners incarcerated in the -old portion of the establishment. They were packed for the night -in stages one above another, and we can well believe that by this -means they "created an artificial climate," but it must have been an -unsavoury as well as an unwholesome one. - -Over the prison gates is the inscription "_Parcere subjectis_," and -the discomfort of so many being crammed into insufficient quarters -strikes us now, and renders the inscription ironical; but it was not so -regarded or intended at the time. Our convicts are nursed in the lap of -luxury as compared with the condition of the prisoners at the beginning -of the century. But then the criminal is the spoiled child of the age, -to be petted, and pampered, and excused. - -A convict with one eye, his nose smashed on one side, with coarse -fleshy lips, was accosted by the chaplain. "For what are you in here, -my man?" "For bigamy," was the reply. "'Twasn't my fault; the women -would have me." - -One marvels that such a deformed, plain spot as the _col_ between the -two Hessary Tors should have been selected for a town. The only reply -one can give is that Sir Thomas Tyrwhitt and the Prince Regent would -have it so. It is on the most inclement site that could have been -selected, catching the clouds from the south-west, and condensing fog -about it when everywhere else is clear. It is exposed equally to the -north and east winds. It stands over fourteen hundred feet above the -sea, above the sources of the Meavy, in the ugliest as well as least -suitable situation that could have been selected; the site determined -by Sir Thomas, so as to be near his granite quarries. - -There have been various attempts made by prisoners to escape. One of -the most desperate was in November, 1880, when a conspiracy had been -organised among the convicts. At the time a good many were engaged in a -granite quarry. They had agreed to make a sudden dash on the warders, -overpower them, whilst in the quarry; and they chose for the attempt -the day in the month on which the governor went to Plymouth to receive -the money for payment of the officials, with intent to waylay, rob, and -murder him, then to break up into parties of two, and disperse over the -moor. - -One of the conspirators betrayed them, so that the scheme was known. It -was deemed advisable not in any way to alter the usual arrangements, -lest this should inspire suspicion in the minds of the convicts. The -warders, armed with rifles, who keep guard at a distance round the -quarry, were told when they heard the chief warder's whistle to close -round the quarry, and, if necessary, fire. - -The gang was marched, as usual, under a slender escort, to the quarry, -and work was begun as usual. All went well till suddenly the ringleader -turned about and, with his crowbar, struck at the head warder and -staggered him for the moment: he reeled and almost fell. Instantly the -convict shouted to his fellows, "Follow me, boys! Hurrah for freedom!" -And they made a dash for the entrance to the quarry. - -Meanwhile the head warder had rallied sufficiently to whistle, but -before the outer ring of guards appeared some of the under warders -discharged their rifles at the two leading convicts. One fell dead, -the other was riddled with shot, yet, strange to say, lived, and, I -believe, is alive still. - -Before the rest of the conspirators could master the warders in the -quarry and get away, the men who had been summoned appeared on the edge -of the hollow, that was like a crater, with their rifles aimed at the -convicts, who saw the game was up, and submitted. - -There are always some crooked minds and perverse spirits in England -ready to side with the enemies of their country or of society, whether -Boers or burglars; and so it was in this case. A great outcry was made -at the shooting of the two ringleaders. If a warder had been killed, no -pity would have been felt for him by these faddists. All their feelings -of sympathy were enlisted on behalf of the wrongdoer. - -A curious case occurred in 1895. - -On March 10th, Sunday, at night, the chaplain, who lived in a house in -the town, being unable to sleep, about half-past eleven went downstairs -in his dressing-gown. He was surprised to notice a light approaching -from the study. Then he observed a man emerge into the hall, holding a -large clasp knife in his hand. On seeing the chaplain, whose name was -Rickards, he uttered a yell, and rushed at him with the knife. - -The chaplain, who maintained his nerve, said, "Stop this fooling, and -come in here and let us have a little talk; you have clearly lost your -way." - -The fellow offered no resistance, and allowed himself to be led into -the study, where the Rev. C. Rickards quietly seated himself on the -table, and said to the burglar, "Now, we shall get on better if you -give me up that knife." At the same time he took hold of the blade and -attempted to gain possession of it. He had disengaged two of the man's -fingers from it, when the fellow drew the knife away, thereby badly -cutting the chaplain's hand. Mr. Rickards then jumped off the table, -exclaiming, "This is not fair!" - -"Look here," said the burglar, "I won't be took at no price," and -flourished the knife defiantly. Noticing that the fellow's pockets -bulged greatly, Mr. Rickards said, "You're not going out with my -property," and closed with him, and endeavoured to put his hand into -one of the pockets. The burglar resisted, and made for the door. Mr. -Rickards now got near where his gun hung on the wall; he took it down, -and clicked the hammer. The gun was not loaded. The burglar then blew -out the candle he carried, and ran from the room. Mr. Rickards at -once loaded his gun with cartridges, and followed the fellow into the -passage. He still had his own candle alight. The man then bolted into -the drawing-room, and endeavoured to open the window. The chaplain -entered, and said, "Now bail up; up with your arms, or I shall fire." - -Thereupon the burglar made a dash at him, head down, and the chaplain -retreated, the man rushing after him. Mr. Rickards had no desire to -fire, and as the fellow plunged past him, he struck at him with the -gun, but missed him. The fellow then dashed through the doorway, and -ran again into the study. The chaplain pursued him, and, standing in -the doorway, said, "Now I have you. The gun is loaded, and I shall -certainly fire if you come towards me." - -The burglar stood for a moment eyeing him, and then made a leap at him -with the uplifted knife; and Mr. Rickards fired at his legs. The man -was hit, and staggered back against the mantel-board. The chaplain -said, "Have you had enough?" - -Again the fellow gathered himself up with raised knife to fall on him, -when Mr. Rickards said coolly, "The other barrel is loaded, and I -shall fire if you advance." The man, however, again came on, when the -chaplain fired again, and hit the man in his right arm, and the knife -fell. Mr. Rickards stooped, picked up the knife, closed it, and put it -into his pocket. Then, thinking that there might be more than this one -man engaged in the burglary, he reloaded his gun. The burglar now went -down in a lump on the hearthrug, bleeding badly. - -By this time the house was roused; the servants had taken alarm, and -had sent for the warders, who arrived, and a doctor was summoned. - -The fellow had been engaged in a good many robberies prior to this. - -One night a couple of young convicts escaped, and obtained entrance -into the doctor's house, where evidently a large supper party had been -held, as the tables had not been cleared after the departure of the -guests. Afterwards, when retaken, one of the men said:-- - -"Sir, it was just as though the doctor had made ready, and was -expecting us to supper. The table was laid, and there were chickens and -ham, tongue, and cold meats, with puddings, cakes, and decanters of -wine, making our mouths fairly water. We ate and ate as only two hungry -convicts could eat after the semi-starvation of prison diet. I could -not look at a bit more when I had finished. 'Try just a leetle slice -more of this ham,' said my chum. 'No, thank you, Bill; I couldn't eat -another mouthful to save my life.' And so we left, and were caught on -going out." - -Soon after this the chaplain visited the fellow who had been -recaptured, and seeing him depressed and in a very unhappy frame -of mind, said to him, "Anything on your soul, man? Your conscience -troubling you?" - -"Terrible," answered the convict; "I shall never get over my -self-reproach--not taking another slice of ham." - -An old man succeeded in getting away in a fog; he ran as far as -Ilsington before he was caught. - -When brought back he was rather oddly attired, and amongst other things -carried a labourer's hoe. This he employed vigorously when crossing -fields, if anyone came in sight. When captured a farmer came to view -him. "Why, drat it," he exclaimed, "that's the man I saw hoeing Farmer -Coaker's stubble fields the other day. It struck me as something new in -farming, and I was going to ask him what there was in it that he paid -a labourer to hoe his stubbles." This same convict, who was acquainted -with the neighbourhood, whilst temporarily at large paid a visit to his -wife one night. He asked her to let him come into the house, telling -who he was. "Not likely; you don't come in here. The policeman's about -the place, and I don't want 'ee," was her cheering reply. - -During another recent escape from Dartmoor an amusing incident occurred -in a lonely lane on a dark night in the neighbourhood of Walkhampton. -Two warders on guard mistook an inoffensive but partially inebriated -farmer for the escaped convict, and he mistook them for a couple of -runaways. - -"Here he comes," exclaimed one warder to the other at the sound of -approaching footsteps. "Now for him," as they both pounced out of the -hedge where they had been in hiding, and seized hold of the man. - -"Look here, my good fellows," he cried. "I know who you be. You be -them two runaways from Princetown, and I'll give you all I've got, -clothes and all, if only you won't murder me. I've got a wife and -childer to home. I'm sure now I don't a bit mind goin' home wi'out -any of my clothes on to my body. My wife'll forgive that, under the -sarcumstances; but to go back wi'out nother my clothes nor my body -either--that would be more nor my missus could bear and forgive. I'd -niver hear the end of it." - -Formerly the manner in which escapes were made was by the convicts when -peat-cutting building up a comrade in a peat-stack, but the warders are -now too much on the alert for this to take place successfully. - -Such buildings as have been erected at Princetown are ugly. The only -structure that is not so is the "Plume of Feathers," erected by the -French prisoners. Every other house is hideous, and most hideous of all -are the rows of residences recently erected for the warders, for they -are pretentious as well as ugly. - -Yet Princetown may serve as a centre for excursions, if the visitor can -endure the intermittent rushes of the trippers on their "cherry-bangs," -and the persistent presence of the convict. If he objects to these, he -can find accommodation a couple of miles off, at Two Bridges; but if he -desire creature comforts he is sure of good entertainment at Princetown. - -The group of remains at Merrivale Bridge is within an easy walk. These -are the most famous on Dartmoor--not for their size or consequence, -but because most accessible, being beside the road. But the whole -collection is happily very complete. - -There is a menhir, a so-called sacred circle, stone rows, a kistvaen, a -pound, hut circles, and a cairn. - -The menhir was the starting-point of a stone row that has been -plundered for the construction of a wall. The sacred circle is composed -of very small stones, and probably at one time inclosed a cairn. The -stone rows that exist are fairly perfect. Those on the south, a double -row, start from a cairn at the west end that has been almost destroyed, -and end in blocking-stones to the east. They are, however, interrupted -by a small cairn within a ring of stones, and, curiously enough, much -as at Chagford, another row starts near it at a tangent from a partly -destroyed cairn. The double row runs 849 feet. - -[Illustration: STAPLE TOR] - -The north pair of rows is imperfect; it probably had a cairn at the -west end, but of it no traces now remain. It consists of a double row, -and ends in a blocking-stone at the east end. It can be traced for only -590 feet. - -A fine kistvaen, formerly in a cairn, lies to the south of the southern -pair of rows. A few years ago a stonecutter at Merrivale Bridge took -a gatepost out of the coverer. In this kistvaen have been found, -though previously rifled, a flint knife and a polishing stone. There -were formerly two large cairns near, but both have been destroyed by -the road-makers, as have also many of the hut circles; a good many, -however, yet remain, and some are inclosed within a pound. In this -ground is an apple-crusher, like an upper millstone, that has been cut, -but never removed, because the demand for these stones ceased with -the introduction of the screw-press. Some ardent but not experienced -antiquaries have supposed it to be a cromlech! As such it is figured in -Major Hamilton Smith's plan of the remains in 1828. - -The tor Over Tor, on the right-hand side of the road, was overthrown -by some trippers--the first swallows of a coming flight--early in the -century. - -The descent to Merrivale Bridge is fine; the bold tors of Roos and -Staple stand up grandly above the Walkham river. Walkham, by the way, -is Wallacombe, the valley of the Walla. - -The flank of Mis Tor towards the river is strewn with inclosures and -hut circles. - -On Staple Tor is a so-called tolmen, a freak of nature, unassisted by -art. Cox Tor beyond is crowned with cairns, but they have been rifled. - -A very charming excursion may be made by following the Plymouth road -to Peak Hill, then descending to Hockworthy Bridge, and ascending the -river as best possible thence, by Woodtown to Merrivale Bridge. There -is a lane above Ward Bridge that mounts the hillside on the east, and -commands a fine view of Vixen Tor with Staple and Roos Tors behind. -In the evening, when the valley is in purple shade, a flood of golden -glory from the west illumines Vixen Tor, and this is the true light in -which the river should be ascended. A so-called cyclopean bridge is -passed that spans a stream foaming down to join the Walkham. - -Walkhampton church need not arrest the pedestrian; it has a fine tower, -but contains absolutely nothing of interest. Adjoining the churchyard -is, however, a very early church house, probably more ancient than the -present Perpendicular church. - -Sampford Spiney has its village church, a quaint, small, old manor -house, and a good tower to the church. It is somewhat curious that the -dedication of neither of these churches is recorded. - -Within an easy stroll of Princetown to the south is Harter Tor. There -are here many hut circles, and below Harter Tor are stone avenues -leading from cairns. - -Black Tor, that looks down on these remains, is also above a -blowing-house and miners' hut, not of an ancient date, as it had a -chimney and fireplace. The mould-stone lies in the grass and weed. - -Black Tor has on it a logan stone that can be rocked by taking hold of -a natural handle. On its summit is a rock basin. - -[Illustration: OLD BLOWING-HOUSE ON THE MEAVY] - -[Illustration: BLOWING-HOUSE BELOW BLACK TOR.] - -Tor Royal was built by Sir Thomas Tyrwhitt, and there he entertained -the Prince Regent when that worthy visited Dartmoor. Tradition tells of -high revelry and debauches taking place on that occasion. Sir Thomas -planted trees that are doing fairly well. In the valley of the West -Dart, under Longaford and Littaford Tors, is Wistman's Wood, now sadly -reduced in size. It has been assumed to be the last remains of the -forest that once covered Dartmoor. But no forest ever did that; at all -events no forest of trees. The ashes of the fires used by the primitive -inhabitants show that peat was their principal fuel, and that what oak -and alder they burned was small and stunted. - -In the sheltered combes doubtless trees grew, but not to any height and -size. - -The early antiquaries, S. Rowe and E. Atkyns Bray, talked much tall -nonsense about Wistman's Wood as a sacred grove, dedicated to the -rites of Druidism, and of the collection of mistletoe from the boughs -of the oaks. As it happens, there are no prehistoric monuments near -the wood to indicate that it was held in reverence, and no mistletoe -grows in Devon, and in Somersetshire only on apple trees. Indeed, the -mistletoe will not grow higher than five or six hundred feet above the -sea, and Wistman's Wood is not much less than a thousand feet above the -sea-level. - -In July, 1882, the central portion of the wood was set fire to, it was -thought by trippers, in an attempt to boil a kettle. This has helped to -reduce the ancient wood; but what prevents its increase is the sheep, -which eat the young trees as they shoot up. It has been said that -Wistman's Wood oaks produce no acorns. This, however, is not the case. -The trees are so venerable that their power to bear fruit is nearly -over, yet they still produce some acorns, and there are young oaks -growing--but not where sheep roam--that have come from these parent -stocks. - -By ascending Bairdown, aiming for Lydford Tor, and then following the -ridge almost due north, but with a little deflection to the west, Devil -Tor may be reached, and near this stands the most impressive menhir -on the moor, the Bairdown Man. The height is only twelve feet, but it -is clothed in black lichen, and stands in such a solitary spot that it -inevitably leaves an impression on the imagination. There is no token -of there having ever been a stone row in connection with it. - -It may here be noticed that the names Lydford Tor, Littaford, -Longaford, Belleford, Reddaford, do not apply to any _fords_ over -the streams, which may be crossed without difficulty, but take their -appellation from the Celtic _fordd_, "a way," and the tors about the -Cowsick and West Dart take their titles from the great central causeway -or from the Lych Way that passed by them. - -The portion of the Cowsick above Two Bridges abounds in charming -studies of river, rock, and timber. - -An excursion to Great Mis Tor will enable the visitor to see a large -rock basin, the Devil's Frying-pan as it is called, and then, if -he descends Greenaball, where are cairns, he will see on the slope -opposite him, beyond the Walkham, a large village, consisting of -circular pounds and hut circles. On reaching the summit of the hill he -will see a fine circle of upright stones. It was originally double, but -nearly all the stones forming the outer ring have been removed. The -rest were fallen, but have been re-erected by His Grace the Duke of -Bedford. - -In such a case there can be no arbitrary restoration, for the holes -that served as sockets for the stones can always be found, together -with the trigger-stones. Indeed, it is easy by the shape of the -socket-holes to see in which way the existing stones were planted. - -About half a mile to the north-west is the Langstone, which gives its -name to this down; it is of a basaltic rock, and not, as is usual, of -granite. Fice's Well, which I remember in the midst of moor, is now -included within the newtake of the prisons, and a wall has been erected -to protect it. This deprives it of much of its charm. It was erected by -John Fitz in 1568. Cut on the granite coverer are the initials of John -Fitz and the date. - -The tradition is that John Fitz of Fitzford and his lady were once -pixy-led whilst on Dartmoor. After long wandering in vain effort to -find their way, they dismounted to rest their horses by a pure spring -that bubbled up on a heathery hillside. There they quenched their -thirst; but the water did more than that--it opened their eyes, and -dispelled the pixy glamour that had been cast over them, so that at -once they were able to take a right direction so as to reach Tavistock -before dark night fell. In gratitude for this, John Fitz adorned the -spring with a granite structure, on which were cut in low-relief his -initials and the date of his adventure. - -There are some old crosses that may be seen by such as are interested -in these venerable relics. The Windy-post stands between Barn Hill -and Feather Tor, and there are also two on Whitchurch Down. One of -these, the more modern, of the fifteenth century, has lost its shaft, -and is reduced to a head; but the other cross may, perhaps, date -from the seventh century--it may even be earlier. Whitchurch was an -archpriesthood; there were two of these in Devon and one in Cornwall. -The origin of these archpriesthoods is probably this. - -In Celtic countries the king liked to have his household priest, who -ministered to the retinue and to his family. On the other hand, the -tribe had its own saint, who was the ecclesiastical official for the -tribe and educated the young. - -As the kings increased in power, and the old tribal arrangement broke -down, they had their household priests consecrated bishops, and the -tribal lands were constituted their dioceses. But in Devon and Cornwall -this could not be, as the Saxons took all power away from the native -princes, and the Latin ecclesiastics would not endure the peculiar -ecclesiastical organisation of the Celts. The household priests of the -conquered chieftains therefore simply remained as archpriests. The -Saxon and then the Norman nobles were not averse from having their own -chaplains free from episcopal jurisdiction, and in some places the -archpriest remained on. But the bishops did not like them, and one by -one gobbled them up. Whitchurch was regulated by Bishop Stapeldon in -1332. At present only one archpriesthood lingers on, that of Haccombe. -At an episcopal visitation, when the name of the archpriest is recited -by the episcopal official, he does not respond, as to answer the -citation would be a recognition of the bishop's jurisdiction over -Haccombe. The very fine piece of screen in Whitchurch was placed there -by a former Lord Devon. It comes from Moreton Hampstead. When the -dunderheads there cast it forth, the Earl secured it and placed it -where it might be preserved and valued. It is of excellent work. - -Before laying down my pen I feel that I have not done homage to that -which, after all, gives the flavour of poetry to the moorland--the -heath and heather. I was one day on the top of the coach from -Holsworthy to Bude, between two Scotch ladies, and I put to them the -question, "Which is heath and which heather--that with the large, or -that with the small bells?" And Jennie, on my right, said: "The large -bell--that is heather"; but Grizel, on my left, said: "Nay, the small -bell--that is heather." As Scottish women were undecided, I referred to -books, and take their decision. The large bell is heath; the ling, that -is heather. - -In old times, so it is said, the Picts made of the heather a most -excellent beer, and the secret was preserved among them. Leyden says -that when the Picts were exterminated, a father and son, who alone -survived, were brought before Kenneth the Conqueror, who promised them -life if they would divulge the secret of heather ale. As they remained -silent, the son was put to death before the eyes of his father. This -exercise of cruelty failed in its effect. "Sire," said the old Pict, -"your threats might have influenced my son, but they have no effect on -me." The king suffered the Pict to live, and the secret remained untold. - -Ah, weel! the Scotch make up for their loss upon whisky. - -A recent writer, referring to the story, says: "It is just possible -that the grain of truth contained in the tradition may be, that all -the northern nations, as the Swedes still do, used the narcotic gale -(_Myrica gale_), which grows among the heather, to give bitterness and -strength to the barley beer; and hence the belief that the beer was -made chiefly of the heather itself." - -I do not hold this. I suspect that the ale was metheglin, made of the -honey extracted from the heather by the bees. Metheglin is still made -round Dartmoor, but it is only good and "heady" when many years old. -Avoid that which is younger than three winters. When it is older, drink -sparingly.[29] - -It is quite certain that the ancient Irish brewed a beer, which we can -hardly think came from barley. S. Bridget has left but one poetical -composition behind her, and that begins:-- - - "I should like a great lake of ale - For the King of kings. - I should like the whole company of Heaven - To be drinking it eternally!" - -The heath was doubtless largely used in former times, from the -Prehistoric Age, not only as a thatch for the huts and hovels, but as a -litter for the beds. Indeed, heath or heather is still employed in the -Scottish Highlands along with the peat earth as a substitute for mortar -between the stones of which a cottage is built. And that heather was -employed for bedding who can question? Leather is tanned even better -with heath than with oak-bark, and of it a brilliant yellow dye is -produced. - -But--ah, me! the heath and the heather!--it is not for the beer -produced therefrom, not for the tan, not for the dye, that we love -it. Wonderful is the sight of the moorside flushed with pink when the -heather is in bloom--it is as though, like a maiden, it had suddenly -awoke to the knowledge that it was lovely, and blushed with surprise -and pleasure at the discovery. - -But how short-lived is the heath! - -It lies dead--a warm chocolate-brown, mantling the hills from October -till July. Only in the midsummer does it timidly put forth its -leaves--its spines rather--and then it flushes again in September. It -blooms for about a fortnight, perhaps three weeks, and then subsides -into its brown winter sleep. But what browns! what splendours of colour -we have when the fern is in its russet decay and the heather is in its -velvet sleep! - -To him who wanders over the moor, and looks at the flowers at his feet, -some day comes the proud felicity of lighting on the white heath--and -that found ensures happiness. And I, as I make my _congé_, hand it to -my reader with best wishes for his enjoyment of that region I love best -in the world. - -FOOTNOTES: - -[29] Yet there is the Devonshire white ale--the composition of which is -a secret--that is still drunk in the South Hams, and in one tavern in -Tavistock. It is a singular, curdy liquor, in the manufacture of which -egg is employed. Is heath used also? _Qu en sabe?_ - - - - -INDEX - - - Abbots' Way, 210-11. - - Algeria, 36. - - Amusing scene, 256. - - Ancient tenements, 24. - - Archerton, 27. - - Archpriests, 275. - - Arrow-heads, 37-8. - - Asphodel, 11. - - Assacombe, 163. - - Aune Head, 6. - - Avon River, 210-11. - - Axe River, 1. - - - Bairdown Man, 273. - - Bath huts, 46. - - Batworthy, 160. - - Becka Fall, 174. - - Beehive huts, 213. - - Bee-keeping, 13. - - Bellever, 145, 223, 242, 256. - - Belstone, 144-8, 156. - - Bidlake, 106-7. - - Birds of the moor, 251-2. - - Bishop's Stone, 174. - - Blachford, 217, 219. - - Black Tor, 270. - - Blowing-houses, 120-1, 148, 200, 215-16, 270. - - Bog plants, 11-12. - - Bogs, 2-11, 202. - - Bovey Heathfield, 15. - - Bowerman's Nose, 75. - - Brent Tor, 97, 102-4. - - Bridestowe, 23; - church, 138. - - Bridges, 72-3, 242. - - Brimpts, 25, 196. - - Bronescombe's Loaf, 139-41. - - Bronze implements, 15. - - Brooke, Rajah, 229. - - Broom, Yellow, 12. - - Browne's House, 164. - - Buckbean, 11. - - Buckland-in-the-Moor, 194. - - Bull-ring, 229. - - Burglary, 263-5. - - Burial alive, 174. - - Burleigh Wood Camp, 104-6. - - Burra Tor, 229. - - - Caches, 213, 230. - - Cainnech, S., story of, 64-5. - - Cairns, 71-2, 101, 211, 269. - - Caistor Rock, 160. - - Camps, 72, 82-3, 97-107, 130, 155, 162, 240. - - Canoe, 15. - - Castle, Lydford, 131. - - Causeway, great central, 71, 170, 242. - - Chagford, 157-60. - - Chaw Gully, 170. - - Childe the Hunter, 202-3. - - Chinese, 33-5, 84. - - Circles, stone, 57-9, 101, 160, 163, 164, 273. - - Clakeywell Pool, 231. - - Clerk, old, 125-6, 158. - - Clitters, 17, 75. - - Coffin-stone, 195. - - Commons, 23. - - Convicts, 262-3, 265-7. - - Cooking-holes, 44-6, 70; - pots, 46, 70. - - Cookworthy, William, 237-8. - - Coral moss, 250-1. - - Cosdon, 149. - - Country dances, 236. - - Cox Tor, 269. - - Cranbrook Castle, 104, 162. - - Cranmere Pool, 7, 149. - - Cromlech, 55, 57, 162. - - Crosses, Celtic, 42; - on Dartmoor, 65-6, 159, 203, 210-12, 236, 274. - - Cuckoo, 252. - - Culture, encroachment of, 26-8. - - Cut Hill, 243. - - - Daddy longlegs, 254-5. - - Damnonii, 44. - - Dartmoor: - ancient inhabitants, 29-51; - antiquities, 52-73; - bogs, 2-10; - camps, 97-107; - cradle of rivers, 1; - forest, 22, 24-5, 271; - granite, 16; - lakes, 15, 16; - plants, 11-13, 19-21; - Preservation Society, 27; - salubrity of, 178-9, 259-60; - tin-streaming, 108-123; - tors, 7, 14-15, 75, _et passim_; - venville parishes, 22-3. - - Dart River, 194-200; - East, 241; - West, 224, 256; - cry of, 235; - otter-hunting on, 224-8. - - Dedication of Celtic Churches, 128-9. - - Deer, 223. - - Destruction of antiquities, 53-5, 162, 172, 210, 211, 228. - - Dewerstone, 104, 239-40. - - Dolly Trebble, 196-7. - - Dolmens, 55-6. - - Dolmen-builders, 36-9. - - Drewsteignton cromlech, 162. - - Drift, a Dartmoor, 25. - - Drizzlecombe, 60, 63, 120, 236. - - Druids, 80-1, 272. - - Duchy, 27. - - Dunnabridge Pound, 26. - - Dyeing, 249. - - - Elford family, 221. - - Epitaphs, 129-30, 193. - - Erme Plains, 212; - river, 211. - - Escapes of convicts, 265-7. - - Exe River, 1. - - - Fardell, 219. - - Farmhouses, 190. - - Fernworthy, 163. - - Fice's Well, 274. - - Flint finds, 160, 243; - tools and weapons, 30, 37, 38, 45, 49. - - Foale's Arrishes, 176-8. - - Fordd = a road, 273. - - Forest, 22, 24-5, 271. - - Fox-hunting, 223. - - Fox Tor Mire, 6. - - Fresh air, 178. - - Funeral customs, 83-96. - - Fur Tor Cut, 7-8. - - Furze, 12-13. - - - Gael, 39, 41-2. - - Galford, 105-6. - - Gates, how hung, 133. - - Ghosts, 90-1. - - Gidleigh, 162-3. - - Gobbetts, 117, 203-6. - - Gold, 122. - - Granite, 14-16. - - Greenaball, 273. - - Grey Wethers, 164, 243. - - Grimspound, 165-70. - - Gubbinses, 134-5. - - - Harford church, 214. - - Harter Tor, 270. - - Hawns and Dendles, 217. - - Heather, 276-8; - white, 162. - - Hembury Castle, 104. - - Hey Tor Rocks, 176. - - Holne Chase, 194; - church, 193. - - Hound Tor, 175. - - Huccaby Bridge, 200. - - Hut circles, 43-4, 66-71, 148, 168, 176, 212-13. - - - Idol, wooden, 15. - - Inscribed stones, 142-3, 173, 219. - - Iron: introduction of, 29; - smelting, 112; - smelting-houses, 194. - - Ivybridge, 209. - - - Jack-o'-Lantern, 243-7. - - Jolly Lane Cot, 200-1. - - - Kaolin, 237-9. - - Kingset, 231. - - Kingsley, Charles, 206. - - King's Oven, 122. - - King's Teignton, 207. - - Kingston, Duchess of, 214-15. - - Kistvaens, 57, 101, 149, 168, 175, 268-9. - - - "Lady" Darke, 183-9. - - Lake-bed, 16. - - Lake-head Hill, 242. - - Langstone, 10, 101, 160, 274. - - Laurence, Archbishop, 87. - - Leather Tor, 235. - - Lichens, 199, 249-50. - - Lime, deficiency of, 255. - - Logan rocks, 75-9, 141, 270. - - Luminous moss, 19-20. - - Lustleigh church, 173-4. - - Lych Way, 255. - - Lydford, 107, 124-32, 134-5. - - Lynx Tor, 141-2. - - - "Maid and Lantern," ballad, 248. - - Manaton, 171-2. - - Marchant's Cross, 236. - - Mary Tavy church, 137; - registers, 136-7. - - May Day customs, 206-7. - - Meavy, 236-7. - - Menhirs, 62-6, 101, 149, 236, 268, 273. - - Merrivale Bridge, 120, 268-9. - - Mires, 6, 8. - - Mistletoe, 272. - - Mis Tor, 269, 273. - - Murcens, 102. - - - Neolithic man, 31-51. - - North Bovey, 172. - - Nun's Cross, 230-1. - - - Oaks, 272. - - Oghams, 219. - - Okebrook, 200. - - Okement River, 1; - West, 136, 138. - - Otter-hunting, 224-8. - - Otter River, 1. - - Over Tor, 269. - - - Palæolithic man, 30. - - Palgrave, Mr., 31. - - Peat fires, 180; - works, 142. - - Pebbles, 47. - - Peter Tavy church, 137-8. - - Petrock, S., 12, 127, 129, 214. - - Phœnicians, 144-6. - - Pixy Cave, 200, 221. - - Plym River, 239. - - Population, ancient, 48-9. - - Post Bridge, 48, 241-58. - - Pottery, neolithic, 30, 38, 177-8. - - Pounds, 26, 48. - - Prideaux, John, 214. - - Prince's Hall, 27. - - Princetown, 27, 259-71. - - Prisoners, 261. - - Prisons, 259-61. - - - Quarters of the Forest, 25. - - - Radford, Daniel, the late, 132. - - Ravens, 170. - - Ravine, Lydford, 134. - - Redlake Mires, 7. - - Redmoor Mire, 9. - - Reservoir, Burra Tor, 221. - - Rock basins, 78-9, 273. - - Rooks, 254. - - Roos Tor, 78. - - Roundy Farm, 231. - - Roundy Pound, 160. - - Row. _See_ Stone rows. - - - Salubrity of Dartmoor, 178-9, 259-60. - - Samoyeds, 58-9. - - Satterleigh, Sally, 201. - - Scaur Hill Circle, 160. - - Screens in churches, 163, 171, 172, 210, 228, 275. - - Shapleigh Common, 165. - - Sheeps Tor, 220-2, 228, 236. - - Sherrill, 199-200. - - "Silly Doe," ballad, 222. - - Slade, 219. - - Snaily House, 256. - - Sourton Down, 142. - - South Brent church, 210. - - Sparrow-hawk, 254. - - Staple Tor, 269. - - Steeperton Tor, 146, 148. - - Sticklepath, 149-50. - - Stinga Tor, 141. - - Stonehenge, 31, 40. - - Stone rows, 60-2, 149, 160-2, 163, 176, 212, 213, 268-9. - - Sundew, 11. - - Sweet gale, 11-12. - - Swincombe, 114-20, 203. - - - Tailor lost on the moor, 4-5. - - Taw Marsh, 146-7. - - Teign River, 160, 162, 164. - - Throwleigh, 156, 163. - - Tin, 22, 30; - streaming, 108-23. - - Tincombe Lane, 159. - - Tolmens, 79-80, 162, 269. - - Tor Royal, 271. - - Tors, 17-18. - - Tracklines, 47, 71. - - Trackway, great central, 170, 242. - - Trippers, 217-18, 268. - - Tristis Rock, 213. - - Two Bridges, 268. - - Tyrwhitt, Sir Thomas, 26, 196, 259-61, 271. - - - Vectis, 110. - - Venville parishes, 22-3. - - Vitifer, 170. - - Vixen Tor, 75, 270. - - Voices, strange, 232-5. - - - Walkham River, 269-70. - - Walkhampton church, 270. - - Weekes family, 151-4. - - West Okement valley, 155. - - West Wyke, 151. - - Whitaburrow, 211. - - Whitchurch, 274. - - White ale, 277. - - Whitmoor Stone, 149. - - Whit Tor Camp, 48, 98-100. - - Whortleberry, 20-1. - - Widdecombe-in-the-Moor, 180-2; - Fair ballad, 190-2. - - Williams, Sir Thomas, 214. - - Windstrew, 220. - - Wireworm, 254. - - Wistman's Wood, 271-2. - - Wolfram, 21. - - Wren, 252-3. - - - Yar Tor, 199. - - Yealm River, 215. - - Yelverton, 220. - - Yes Tor, 155. - - - Zeal Plains, 210. - - Zeal, South, 150-1. - - PLYMOUTH - W. 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With a long Introduction by Andrew Lang. - Double volume. - - TWENTY YEARS AFTER. Double volume. - - THE WILD DUCK SHOOTER. - - THE WOLF-LEADER. - - -Methuen's Sixpenny Books - - =Albanesi (E. M.).= LOVE AND LOUISA. - - =Austen (Jane).= PRIDE AND PREJUDICE. - - =Bagot (Richard).= A ROMAN MYSTERY. - - =Balfour (Andrew).= BY STROKE OF SWORD. - - =Baring-Gould (S.).= FURZE BLOOM. - - CHEAP JACK ZITA. - - KITTY ALONE. - - URITH. - - THE BROOM SQUIRE. - - IN THE ROAR OF THE SEA. - - NOÉMI. - - A BOOK OF FAIRY TALES. Illustrated. - - LITTLE TU'PENNY. - - THE FROBISHERS. - - WINEFRED. - - =Barr (Robert).= JENNIE BAXTER, JOURNALIST. - - IN THE MIDST OF ALARMS. - - THE COUNTESS TEKLA. - - THE MUTABLE MANY. - - =Benson (E. F.).= DODO. - - =Brontë (Charlotte).= SHIRLEY. - - =Brownell (C. L.).= THE HEART OF JAPAN. - - =Burton (J. Bloundelle).= ACROSS THE SALT SEAS. - - =Caffyn (Mrs.)= ('Iota'). ANNE MAULEVERER. - - =Capes (Bernard).= THE LAKE OF WINE. - - =Clifford (Mrs. W. K.).= A FLASH OF SUMMER. - - MRS. KEITH'S CRIME. - - =Corbett (Julian).= A BUSINESS IN GREAT WATERS. - - =Croker (Mrs. B. M.).= PEGGY OF THE BARTONS. - - A STATE SECRET. - - ANGEL. - - JOHANNA. - - =Dante (Alighieri).= THE VISION OF DANTE (Cary). - - =Doyle (A. Conan).= ROUND THE RED LAMP. - - =Duncan (Sara Jeannette).= A VOYAGE OF CONSOLATION. - - THOSE DELIGHTFUL AMERICANS. - - =Eliot (George).= THE MILL ON THE FLOSS. - - =Findlater (Jane H.).= THE GREEN GRAVES OF BALGOWRIE. - - =Gallon (Tom).= RICKERBY'S FOLLY. - - =Gaskell (Mrs.).= CRANFORD. - - MARY BARTON. - - NORTH AND SOUTH. - - =Gerard (Dorothea).= HOLY MATRIMONY. - - THE CONQUEST OF LONDON. - - MADE OF MONEY. - - =Gisslng (George).= THE TOWN TRAVELLER. - - THE CROWN OF LIFE. - - =Glanville (Ernest).= THE INCA'S TREASURE. - - THE KLOOF BRIDE. - - =Gleig (Charles).= BUNTER'S CRUISE. - - =Grimm (The Brothers).= GRIMM'S FAIRY TALES. Illustrated. - - =Hope (Anthony).= A MAN OF MARK. - - A CHANGE OF AIR. - - THE CHRONICLES OF COUNT ANTONIO. - - PHROSO. - - THE DOLLY DIALOGUES. - - =Hornung (E. W.).= DEAD MEN TELL NO TALES. - - =Ingraham (J. H.).= THE THRONE OF DAVID. - - =Le Queux (W.).= THE HUNCHBACK OF WESTMINSTER. - - =Levett-Yeats (S. K.).= THE TRAITOR'S WAY. - - =Linton (E. Lynn).= THE TRUE HISTORY OF JOSHUA DAVIDSON. - - =Lyall (Edna).= DERRICK VAUGHAN. - - =Malet (Lucas).= THE CARISSIMA. - - A COUNSEL OF PERFECTION. - - =Mann (Mrs. M. E.).= MRS. PETER HOWARD. - - A LOST ESTATE. - - THE CEDAR STAR. - - ONE ANOTHER'S BURDENS. - - =Marchmont (A. W.).= MISER HOADLEY'S SECRET. - - A MOMENT'S ERROR. - - =Marryat (Captain).= PETER SIMPLE. - - JACOB FAITHFUL. - - =Marsh (Richard).= THE TWICKENHAM PEERAGE. - - THE GODDESS. - - THE JOSS. - - A METAMORPHOSIS. - - =Mason (A. E. W.).= CLEMENTINA. - - =Mathers (Helen).= HONEY. - - GRIFF OF GRIFFITHSCOURT. - - SAM'S SWEETHEART. - - =Meade (Mrs. L. T.).= DRIFT. - - =Mitford (Bertram).= THE SIGN OF THE SPIDER. - - =Montresor (F. F.).= THE ALIEN. - - =Morrison (Arthur).= THE HOLE IN THE WALL. - - =Nesbit (E.).= THE RED HOUSE. - - =Norris (W. E.).= HIS GRACE. - - GILES INGILBY. - - THE CREDIT OF THE COUNTY. - - LORD LEONARD. - - MATTHEW AUSTIN. - - CLARISSA FURIOSA. - - =Oliphant (Mrs.).= THE LADY'S WALK. - - SIR ROBERT'S FORTUNE. - - THE PRODIGALS. - - =Oppenheim (E. Phillips).= MASTER OF MEN. - - =Parker (Gilbert).= THE POMP OF THE LAVILETTES. - - WHEN VALMOND CAME TO PONTIAC. - - THE TRAIL OF THE SWORD. - - =Pemberton (Max).= THE FOOTSTEPS OF A THRONE. - - I CROWN THEE KING. - - =Phillpotts (Eden).= THE HUMAN BOY. - - CHILDREN OF THE MIST. - - '=Q.=' THE WHITE WOLF. - - =Ridge (W. Pett).= A SON OF THE STATE. - - LOST PROPERTY. - - GEORGE AND THE GENERAL. - - =Russell (W. Clark).= A MARRIAGE AT SEA. - - ABANDONED. - - MY DANISH SWEETHEART. - - HIS ISLAND PRINCESS. - - =Sergeant (Adeline).= THE MASTER OF BEECHWOOD. - - BARBARA'S MONEY. - - THE YELLOW DIAMOND. - - THE LOVE THAT OVERCAME. - - =Surtees (R. S.).= HANDLEY CROSS. Illustrated. - - MR. SPONGE'S SPORTING TOUR. Illustrated. - - ASK MAMMA. Illustrated. - - =Walford (Mrs. L. B.).= MR. SMITH. - - COUSINS. - - THE BABY'S GRANDMOTHER. - - =Wallace (General Lew).= BEN-HUR. - - THE FAIR GOD. - - =Watson (H. B. Marriot).= THE ADVENTURERS. - - =Weekes (A. B.).= PRISONERS OF WAR. - - =White (Percy).= A PASSIONATE PILGRIM. - - - - - * * * * * * - - - - -Transcriber's note: - -Silently corrected simple spelling, grammar, and typographical -errors. - -Retained anachronistic and non-standard spellings as printed. - - - -***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A BOOK OF DARTMOOR*** - - -******* This file should be named 51134-0.txt or 51134-0.zip ******* - - -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: -http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/5/1/1/3/51134 - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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