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diff --git a/old/51116-8.txt b/old/51116-8.txt deleted file mode 100644 index c5f6914..0000000 --- a/old/51116-8.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3509 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Geologic Story of Arches National Park, by -S. W. Lohman - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: The Geologic Story of Arches National Park - Geological Survey Bulletin 1393 - -Author: S. W. Lohman - -Illustrator: John R. Stacy - -Release Date: February 3, 2016 [EBook #51116] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK GEOLOGIC STORY--ARCHES NATIONAL PARK *** - - - - -Produced by Stephen Hutcheson, Dave Morgan and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net - - - - - - - [Illustration: Geology of Arches National Park] - - [Illustration: BALANCED ROCK, guarding The Windows section of Arches - National Park. Rock is Slick Rock Member of Entrada Sandstone - resting upon crinkly bedded Dewey Bridge Member of the Entrada. - White rock in foreground is Navajo Sandstone. La Sal Mountains on - right skyline. (Frontispiece)] - - [Illustration: Graphic Title Page] - - - - - _The Geologic Story of_ - Arches - NATIONAL PARK - - - By S. W. Lohman - Graphics by - John R. Stacy - - GEOLOGICAL SURVEY BULLETIN 1393 - - - UNITED STATES DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR - ROGERS C. B. MORTON, _Secretary_ - - GEOLOGICAL SURVEY - V. E. McKelvey, _Director_ - - [Illustration: Department of the Interior · March 3, 1949] - - U.S. GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE: 1975 - - - Library of Congress Cataloging in Publication Data - Lohman, Stanley William, 1907- - The geologic story of Arches National Park. - (Geological Survey Bulletin 1393) - Bibliography: p. - Includes index. - Supt. of Docs. no.: I 19.3:1393 - 1. Geology--Utah--Arches National Park--Guide-books. - 2. Arches National Park, Utah--Guide-books. - I. Title. II. Series: United States Geological Survey - Bulletin 1393. - QE75.B9 No. 1393 [QE170.A7] 557.3'08s [557.92'58] - 74-23324 - - - For sale by the Superintendent of Documents, U. S. Government Printing - Office - Washington, D. C. 20402 - Stock Number 024-001-02598-1 - - - - - Contents - - - Page - Beginning of a monument 1 - Graduation to a park 5 - Early history 9 - Prehistoric people 9 - Late arrivals 12 - Geographic setting 18 - Deposition of the rock materials 20 - Bending and breaking of the rocks 24 - Uplift and erosion of the Plateau 33 - Origin and development of the arches 37 - Examples of arches 46 - How to see the park 50 - A trip through the park 52 - Colorado River canyon 52 - Headquarters area 57 - Courthouse Towers area 63 - The Windows section 68 - Delicate Arch area 74 - Fiery Furnace 79 - Salt Valley and Klondike Bluffs 82 - Devils Garden 83 - Summary of geologic history 98 - Additional reading 104 - Acknowledgments 105 - Selected references 105 - Index 109 - - - - - Figures - - - Page - Frontispiece. Balanced Rock. - 1. Arches National Park 6 - 2. Rock art in Arches National Park 11 - 3. Wolfe's Bar-DX Ranch 14 - 4. Rock column of Arches National Park 21 - 5. Common types of rock folds 25 - 6. Common types of rock faults 26 - 7. Paradox basin 27 - 8. Geologic section across northwest end of Arches National Park 28 - 9. Index map of northwestern part of Arches National Park 28 - 10. Gravity anomalies over Salt Valley 31 - 11. Tilted block of rocks in Cache Valley graben 34 - 12. Jointed northeast flank of Salt Valley anticline 36 - 13. Index map 38 - 14. Tunnel Arch 43 - 15. "Baby Arch" 44 - 16. Broken Arch 45 - 17. Double Arch 47 - 18. Pothole Arch 48 - 19. Glen Canyon Group 53 - 20. Navajo Sandstone cliffs 54 - 21. Mouth of Salt Wash 55 - 22. Southeast end of faulted Cache Valley anticline 56 - 23. Faulted Seven Mile-Moab Valley anticline 58 - 24. Three Penguins 59 - 25. Moab Valley 60 - 26. Faulted wall of Entrada Sandstone 61 - 27. Park Avenue 62 - 28. Balanced rocks on south wall of Park Avenue 64 - 29. Courthouse Towers 65 - 30. The Three Gossips 66 - 31. Sheep Rock 66 - 32. Petrified sand dunes 67 - 33. "Hoodoos and goblins" 68 - 34. Eye of The Whale 69 - 35. Intricate crossbeds in Navajo Sandstone 70 - 36. Cove Arch and Cove of Caves 71 - 37. North Window 72 - 38. Looking southwestward through North Window 73 - 39. South Window 74 - 40. Turret Arch 75 - 41. Parade of Elephants 76 - 42. Suspension foot bridge across Salt Wash 78 - 43. Delicate Arch 78 - 44. Fiery Furnace 80 - 45. Trail to Sand Dune Arch 81 - 46. Sand Dune Arch 82 - 47. Tower Arch 84 - 48. Skyline Arch 85 - 49. Campground in Devils Garden 86 - 50. View north from campground 87 - 51. Southeastern part of Devils Garden trail 88 - 52. Pine Tree Arch 89 - 53. Landscape Arch 91 - 54. Navajo Arch 92 - 55. Partition Arch 93 - 56. Double O Arch 93 - 57. Dark Angel 94 - 58. "Indian-Head Arch" 95 - 59. Geologic time spiral 96 - - [Illustration: Petroglyph figure] - - - - -Beginning of a Monument - - -According to former Superintendent Bates Wilson (1956), Prof. Lawrence -M. Gould, of the University of Michigan, was the first to recognize the -geologic and scenic values of the Arches area in eastern Utah and to -urge its creation as a national monument. Mrs. Faun McConkie Tanner[1] -told me that Professor Gould, who had done a thesis problem in the -nearby La Sal Mountains, was first taken through the area by Marv -Turnbow, third owner of Wolfe cabin. (See p. 12.) When Professor Gould -went into ecstasy over the beautiful scenery, Turnbow replied, "I didn't -know there was anything unusual about it." - -Dr. J. W. Williams, generally regarded as father of the monument, and L. -L. (Bish) Taylor, of the Moab Times-Independent, were the local leaders -in following up on Gould's suggestion and, with the help of the Moab -Lions Club, their efforts finally succeeded on April 12, 1929, when -President Herbert Hoover proclaimed Arches National Monument, then -comprising only 7 square miles.[2] It was enlarged to about 53 square -miles by President Franklin D. Roosevelt's Proclamation of November 25, -1938, and remained at nearly that size, with some boundary adjustments -on July 22, 1960, until it was enlarged to about 130 square miles by -President Lyndon B. Johnson's Proclamation of January 20, 1969. - -According to Breed (1947), Harry Goulding, of Monument Valley, in a -specially equipped car, traversed the rugged sand and rocks of the -Arches region in the fall of 1936 and, thus, became the first person to -drive a car into The Windows section of Arches National Monument. Soon -after, a bulldozer followed Harry's tracks and made a passable trail. - -When my family and I visited the monument in 1946, the entrance was -about 12 miles northwest of Moab on U.S. Highway 163 (then U.S. 160), -where Goulding's old tire tracks led eastward past a small sign reading -"Arches National Monument 8 miles." This primitive road crossed the -sandy, normally dry Courthouse Wash and ended in what is now called The -Windows section. At that time there was no water or ranger station, nor -were there any picnic tables or other improvements within the monument -proper, and the custodian was housed in an old barracks of the Civilian -Conservation Corps near what is now the entrance, 5 miles northwest of -Moab. - -Former Custodian Russell L. Mahan reported (oral commun., May 1973) that -soon after our initial visit in 1946 a 500-gallon tank was installed -near Double Arch in The Windows section and connected to a drinking -fountain and that two picnic tables and a pit toilet were added. At that -time the only access to Salt Valley and what is now called Devils Garden -was a primitive dirt road which, according to Breed (1947, p. 175), left -old U.S. Highway 160 (now U.S. 163) 24 miles northwest of Moab, went 22 -miles east, then followed Salt Valley Wash down to Wolfe cabin (fig. 1). - -According to Abbey (1971), who served as a seasonal ranger beginning -about 1958, a sign had by then been erected at the crossing of -Courthouse Wash which read: - - WARNING: QUICKSAND - DO NOT CROSS WASH - WHEN WATER IS RUNNING - -The ranger station, his home for 6 months of the year, was what Abbey -described as "a little tin housetrailer." Nearby was an information -display under a "lean-to shelter." He had propane fuel for heat, -cooking, and refrigeration, and a small gasoline-engine-driven generator -for lights at night. His water came from the 500-gallon tank, which was -filled at intervals from a tank truck. At that time there were three -small dry campgrounds, each with tables, fireplaces, garbage cans, and -pit toilets. By that time an extension of the dirt road led northward to -Devils Garden, and some trails had been built and marked. - -Bates Wilson became Custodian of the monument in 1949 and later became -Superintendent not only of Arches but also of the nearby new Canyonlands -National Park (Lohman, 1974) and the more distant Natural Bridges -National Monument. In the fall of 1969, Bates told me of some of his -early experiences in the undeveloped monument, including the evening -when 22 cars were marooned on the wrong (northeast) side of Courthouse -Wash after a flash flood. Bates and his "lone" ranger brought ropes, -coffee, and what food they could obtain in town after closing time, -threw a line across the swollen stream, had a tourist pull a rope -across, then took turns wading the stream with one hand on the rope and -the other balancing supplies on his shoulder. After a fire had been -built and hot coffee and food passed around, the spirits of the stranded -group rose considerably, except for one irate woman from the East, who -refused to budge from her car. Bates and his helper finally got the last -car out about 1 a.m., after the flood had subsided, and Mrs. Wilson then -supplied lodging and more food and coffee for those who needed it. - -During and for sometime after World War II and the Korean War, lack of -maintenance funds and personnel had prevented improvement of the -facilities in many of our national parks and monuments, particularly in -undeveloped ones like Arches. The day was saved through the wisdom and -foresight of former Park Service Director Conrad L. Wirth, who saw the -need and desirability of putting the whole "want" list into one -attractive, marketable package. In the words of Everhart (1972, p. 36): - - Selection of a name is of course recognized as the most important - decision in any large-scale enterprise, and here Wirth struck pure - gold. In 1966 the Park Service would be celebrating its fiftieth - anniversary. What a God-given target to shoot for! Why not produce a - ten-year program, which would begin in 1956, aimed to bring every park - up to standard by 1966--and call it Mission 66? - -The ensuing well-documented and cost-estimated plan for Mission 66 was -enthusiastically backed by President Dwight D. Eisenhower and approved -and well supported by Congress to the tune of more than $1 billion -during the 10-year period. For Arches, this included a new entrance, -Park Headquarters, Visitor Center, a museum boasting a bust of founder -Dr. Williams, and modern housing for park personnel, all 5 miles -northwest of Moab. By 1958 (Pierson, 1960) a fine new paved road between -Park Headquarters and Balanced Rock (frontispiece) was completed. These -badly needed improvements were followed by the completion of the paved -road all the way to Devils Garden, the building of the modern -campground, picnic facilities, and amphitheater in the Devils Garden, -and the construction of turnouts and marked trails. - - [Illustration: Petroglyph figure] - - - - -Graduation to a Park - - -Arches graduated to a full-fledged national park when President Richard -M. Nixon signed a Congressional Bill on November 16, 1971. The change in -status was accompanied by boundary changes that reduced the area to -about 114 square miles. The loss of most of Dry Mesa, just east of the -present boundary (fig. 1), was offset in part by gains of new land -northwest of Devils Garden. The present (1974) boundaries, roads, -trails, and named features of the park are shown in figure 1. - -The park was virtually completed at graduation time, and so far this -change in status has shown up mainly in new entrance signs, a new 1972 -brochure and map, and a very informative "Guide to an Auto Tour of -Arches National Park," keyed to numbered signs at parking spaces. About -all that remain to be added are new wayside exhibits, some boundary -fences, and spur roads and trails. - - [Illustration: ARCHES NATIONAL PARK, showing location in Utah, - boundaries, streams, highways and roads, trails, landforms, - principal named features, and the city of Moab. The reader is - referred to figure 7 and to road maps issued by the State or by oil - companies for the locations of other nearby towns and features. - Visitors also may obtain pamphlets, from the entrance station or - from the National Park Service office in Moab, which contain - up-to-date maps of the park and the latest available information on - roads, trails, campsites, and picnic sites. (Fig. 1)] - -Although Arches had officially become a park in November 1971, it was -not formally dedicated until May 15, 1972. The ceremony began by having -the Federal, State, and local dignitaries and other guests totaling 140 -persons board the _Canyon King_, a 93-foot replica of a Mississippi -River sternwheeler (Lansford, 1972; Lohman, 1974, fig. 69), for its -maiden voyage down the Colorado River. After about half an hour, the -heavily laden boat became stuck on a sandbar, and after a 90-minute wait -the passengers were rescued by jet boats. This delayed a luncheon at the -Visitor Center put on by the Moab Lions Club. Following the luncheon, -Park Superintendent Bates Wilson made a brief welcoming address, then -introduced J. Leonard Volz, Director of the Midwest Region of the -National Park Service, who served as master of ceremonies. Speakers -included Utah Governor Calvin L. Rampton, Senator Frank E. Moss, a -representative of Senator Wallace F. Bennett, Representatives Sherman P. -Lloyd of Utah and Wayne Aspinall of Colorado, and Mitchell Melich, -Solicitor General of the Department of Interior, representing Secretary -Rogers C. B. Morton. After the speeches, a commemorative plaque, donated -by the Canyonlands Natural History Association, was unveiled by Senator -Moss and Mr. Melich. - -Most of the color photographs were taken by me on 4- x 5-inch film in a -tripod-mounted press camera, using lenses of several focal lengths, but -a few were taken on 35-mm film, using lenses of various focal lengths. I -am grateful to several friends for the color photographs credited to -them in the figure captions. The black and white photographs were kindly -loaned from the Moab and Arches files of the National Park Service. The -points from which most of the photographs were taken are shown in figure -13. - - [Illustration: Petroglyph figure] - - - - -Early History - - - Prehistoric People - -The Canyon lands in and south of Arches were inhabited by cliff dwellers -centuries before the first visits of the Spaniards and fur trappers. -Projectile points and other artifacts found in the nearby La Sal and -Abajo Mountains indicate occupation by aborigines during the period from -about 3000-2000 B.C. to about A.D. 1 (Hunt, Alice, 1956). The Fremont -people occupied the area around A.D. 850 or 900, and the Pueblo or -Anasazi people from about A.D. 1075 to their departure in the late 12th -century (Jennings, 1970). Most of the evidence for these early -occupations has been found in and south of Canyonlands National Park -(Lohman, 1974), but some traces of these and possibly earlier cultures -have been found also within Arches National Park. - -Ross A. Maxwell (National Park Service, written commun., 1941) -investigated two caves in the Entrada Sandstone in the upper reaches of -Salt Wash that contain Anasazi ruins. He mentioned that perhaps a dozen -or more other caves should be checked for evidence of former occupation -and, also, that he found several ancient campsites littered with flint -chips and broken tools. - -One cave Maxwell explored some 5 miles north of Wolfe Ranch and north of -the park is about 300 feet long and 100 to 150 feet deep. It contains -the remains of one or more ruins of a structure he thought may have -covered much of the floor. The remaining parts of walls now are only two -to four tiers of stones in height, although originally they may have -been more than one story high. Maxwell explored a second cave on the -east side of Salt Wash, about 2 miles north of Wolfe Ranch, which -contains 16 storage cists of adobe. - -The faces of many older sandstone cliffs or ledges are darkened by -desert varnish--a natural pigment of iron and manganese oxides. The -prehistoric inhabitants of the Plateau learned that effective and -enduring designs, called petroglyphs, could be created simply by -chiseling or pecking through the thin dark layer to reveal the buff or -tan sandstone beneath. Most petroglyphs were created by the Anasazi, but -those showing men mounted on horses were done by Ute tribesmen after the -Spaniards brought in horses in the 1500's. The Fremont people and some -earlier people painted figures on rock faces, called pictographs, and -some of these had pecked outlines. - -The so-called "Moab panel" was described by Beckwith (1934, p. 177) as a -petroglyph, but, as pointed out by Schaafsma (1971, p. 72, 73), it -comprises figures having pecked outlines and painted bodies, which -actually are combinations of petroglyphs and pictographs. This -beautifully preserved group of paintings is shown in the upper -photograph of figure 2. Mrs. Schaafsma goes on to say, concerning the -"Moab panel": - - The long tapered body, the antenna like headdresses, and the staring - eyes are characteristic features of Barrier Canyon style figures - elsewhere * * *. Of special interest here are the large shields held - by certain figures. A visit to this site indicated that the shields, - although apparently of some antiquity, have been superimposed over - some of the Barrier Canyon figures. Whether or not this was done by - the Barrier Canyon style artists themselves or later comers to the - site is impossible to tell. - -Although definite proof seems lacking, she suggested (written commun., -Nov. 3, 1973) that the "'Barrier Canyon style'[3] * * * is earlier than -the work in the same region clearly attributable to the Fremont." Note -the three bullet holes in and near the right-hand shield. A ledge above -the panel that contained petroglyphs during her earlier visit had fallen -to the base of the cliff by the time my wife and I inspected the panel -in September 1973. - - [Illustration: ROCK ART IN ARCHES NATIONAL PARK. A (above), "Moab - panel," on cliff of Wingate Sandstone above U.S. Highway 163 between - Courthouse Wash and Colorado River, believed to be the work of - "Barrier Canyon" style people. B (below), Petroglyphs on ledge of - sandstone in Morrison Formation on east side of Salt Wash just north - of Wolfe Ranch, believed to have been cut by Ute tribesmen. (Fig. - 2)] - - [Illustration: Fig. 2 B] - -Mrs. Schaafsma believes the petroglyphs in the lower photograph of -figure 2 to be the work of Ute tribesmen, not only because of the -horses, but also because of the stiff-legged appearance of the mountain -sheep. Note the bullet hole above the panel. - - - Late Arrivals - -Later arrivals in and near Arches National Park included first Spanish -explorers, then trappers, cattlemen, cattle rustlers and horse thieves, -followed in the present century by oil drillers, uranium hunters, -jeepsters, and tourists. Butch Cassidy, the Sundance Kid, and other -members of The Wild Bunch are known to have frequented parts of what is -now Canyonlands National Park (Baker, Pearl, 1971), but it is not -certain whether or not any of them traversed what is now Arches National -Park. - -The first settler in what is now Arches National Park was a Civil War -veteran named John Wesley Wolfe, who was discharged from the Union Army -about 3 weeks before the Battle of Bull Run because he suffered from -varicose veins. In 1888 his doctor told him he had to leave Ohio for a -dryer climate or he would not live 6 months, so he took his son Fred -west and settled on a tract of 150 acres along the west bank of Salt -Wash, where his "Wolfe cabin" still stands (figs. 1, 3). From family -letters and newspaper clippings compiled by Mrs. Maxine Newell and other -members of the National Park Service (Maxine Newell, written commun., -1971), we learn what life in the area was like: - - We have started a cattle spread on a desert homestead. We call it the - Bar-DX Ranch. Fred and I live in a little log house on the bank of a - creek that is sometimes dry, sometimes flooded from bank to bank with - roaring muddy water. We are surrounded with rocks--gigantic red rock - formations, massive arches and weird figures, the like of which youve - [sic] never seen. The desert is a hostile, demanding country, hot in - summer, cold in winter. The Bar-DX Ranch is a day's ride from the - nearest store, out of the range of schools. - -Although John Wolfe had promised his wife and his other children that he -would return home the first fall that his cattle sales netted enough -money, he and Fred stayed on and on, and his wife refused to go west and -join her husband and son. Eighteen years later he sent money from his -pension check to his daughter, Mrs. Flora Stanley, his son-in-law, Ed -Stanley, and his two grandchildren, Esther and Ferol, to join him and -Fred at the ranch. Their train was met at Thompson Springs (now -Thompson), Utah (fig. 7), by John Wolfe for the 30-mile ride to the -ranch by horse and wagon. Sight of the tiny log cabin with only a dirt -floor brought tears to his daughter's eyes, but her spirits rose -considerably after John Wolfe promised to build a new log cabin with a -wooden floor. But the children were enchanted with this strange country, -with the building of the new cabin, and, especially, with getting to go -rabbit hunting with Grandpa Wolfe. The Stanleys stayed at the ranch -until Esther was 10, then moved to Moab to await the arrival of their -third child, Volna. - -In 1910 John Wolfe sold the Bar-DX Ranch, and the entire family moved to -Kansas. John Wolfe later moved back to Ohio, and died at Etna, Licking -County, on October 22, 1913, at the age of 84, 25 years after his doctor -had warned him to move to a dryer climate or face an early death. - -Wolfe had sold his spread to Tommy Larson, who later sold it to J. Marv -Turnbow and his partners, Lester Walker and Stib Beeson. The old log -cabin gradually came to be known as the "Turnbow cabin," and this name -appeared on early maps of the area by the U.S. Geological Survey and on -early pamphlets by the National Park Service, partly because Marv -Turnbow served as a camphand in 1927 assisting in the first detailed -geologic mapping of the area (Dane, 1935, p. 4). In 1947 the ranch was -sold to Emmett Elizondo, who later sold it to the Government for -inclusion in what was then the monument. - -From information supplied by Wolfe's granddaughter, Mrs. Esther Stanley -Rison, and his great-granddaughter, Mrs. Hazel Wolfe Hastler, who -visited the cabin in July 1970, the original name Wolfe cabin, or Wolfe -Ranch, has been restored, and appears on the newer maps and pamphlets. -(See fig. 1.) What remains of Wolfe's Bar-DX Ranch is shown in figure 3. - - [Illustration: WOLFE'S BAR-DX RANCH, on west bank of Salt Wash at - start of trail to Delicate Arch. Left to right: Corral, wagon, "new" - cabin, and root cellar. "Old" cabin, which formerly was to right of - photograph, was washed away by a flood in 1906. (Fig. 3)] - -Arches National Park is surrounded by active uranium and vanadium mines -and by many test wells for oil, gas, and potash; it is underlain by -extensive salt and potash deposits. Oil and gas are produced a few miles -to the north and east, and potash is being produced about 12 miles to -the south (Lohman, 1974). - -Uranium and vanadium have been mined on the Colorado Plateau since 1898 -(Dane, 1935, p. 176) and in the Yellow Cat area (also called Thompson's -area), just north of the park (fig. 1), since about 1911 (Stokes, 1952, -p. 7). The deposits in the Yellow Cat area occur in the Salt Wash -Sandstone Member of the Morrison Formation (fig. 4). According to Pete -Beroni (U.S. Atomic Energy Commission, oral commun., August 6, 1973), -some ore is still being produced in the Yellow Cat area, and the -production of vanadium ore will increase as soon as the uranium mill at -Moab is converted to also handle vanadium ore. The Corral and so-called -Shinarump mines along the southwest side of Moab Canyon just north of -Sevenmile Canyon (fig. 1) are still actively producing uranium ore from -the Moss Back Member of the Chinle Formation, according to Mr. Beroni. - -The occurrences of salt and potash in and near the park and the attempts -to find oil and gas nearby are discussed in a recent report (Hite and -Lohman, 1973), and the deposits beneath Moab, Salt, and Cache Valleys -are discussed in later chapters. - -In 1955 and 1956 the Pacific Northwest Pipeline, known also as the -"Scenic Inch," was constructed by the Pacific Northwest Pipeline Corp. -to transmit natural gas from wells in the San Juan Basin of northwestern -New Mexico for a total of 1,487 miles to the Pacific Northwest, with -additional pickups from gas fields in northeastern Utah, northwestern -Colorado, and southwestern Wyoming (Walters, 1956). This 26-inch -pipeline follows the general route of U.S. Highway 163 from Cortez, -Colo., past Moab to Sevenmile Canyon 10 miles northwest of Moab, where -it turns abruptly to the northeast and crosses about the middle of -Arches National Park. It crosses the park road and the flat area between -the Fiery Furnace and the southeast end of Devils Garden, but the scars -are so well healed that most visitors are unaware of its existence -unless they happen to look southwestward across Salt Valley, where the -filled excavation is still visible. The filled trench also appears in -the lower middle of figure 23. - -Unlike Canyonlands National Park a few miles to the south, Arches was -not on the route of the famous early-day river expeditions of John -Wesley Powell or of most of those that followed; however, the -southeastern boundary of the park is the Colorado River, formerly the -Grand, which was traversed by the first leg of the ill-fated -Brown-Stanton expedition (Dellenbaugh, 1902, p. 343-369; Lohman, 1974). - -The canyon of the Colorado River along the southeastern park boundary is -deep and beautiful and is a favorite stretch of quiet water for boaters -and floaters. Partly paved State Highway 128 on the east bank is a part -of a most scenic drive from Moab to Cisco--a small railroad town about -32 miles northeast of the eastern border of figure 1 (fig. 7). This road -has been variously called the "Moab Mail Road," the "Cisco Cutoff," the -"Dewey Road," or the "Dewey Bridge Road" after an old suspension bridge -(fig. 7) across the Colorado River at the old townsite of Dewey about 12 -miles south of Cisco. During the summer this deep colorful canyon may be -viewed at night by artificial illumination. Each evening one-half hour -after sundown, an 80-passenger jet boat leaves a dock north of the -highway bridge, carries passengers several miles upstream, then floats -slowly downstream followed by a truck on the highway carrying 40,000 -watts of searchlights which play back and forth on the colorful red -canyon walls, while the passengers listen to a taped discourse. The -entire trip requires about 2 hours. - -The spectacular arches and red rocks of Arches and vicinity have been -used to advantage in making color movies and color TV shows. Parts of -the recent Walt Disney film "Run, Cougar, Run" were filmed beneath -Delicate Arch (fig. 43), in Professor Valley of the Colorado River just -east of the park (fig. 7), and in other sections of the canyon country. - -Ever since military jet aircraft broke the sound barrier, there has been -a growing number of protests from concerned citizens, organizations, and -National Park Service officials concerning the dangers sonic booms have -posed to Indian ruins and delicate erosional forms in our national parks -and monuments, such as natural bridges, arches and windows, balanced -rocks, and natural spires or towers. Many instances of damaged ruins, -roads, erosional forms, and broken windows were reported. My wife and I -can vouch for the destructive power of such booms, for in October 1969, -while we were having breakfast at Squaw Flat Campground in The Needles -section of Canyonlands National Park, a particularly severe blast from a -low-flying jet not only violently rocked our jack-supported trailer but -broke the windshield of our car. - -At Arches National Park, particular fear was felt for Landscape Arch -(fig. 53), thought to be the longest natural stone arch in the world, -and many a special round trip from headquarters involving 47 road miles -and 2 trail miles was made to check on the condition of this arch after -especially loud sonic booms were heard. Finally, in April 1972, -following a rash of newspaper and magazine articles that spread across -the nation, the Secretary of the Air Force put a virtual stop to this -danger by ruling that, except in an emergency (Moab Times-Independent, -April 12, 1972): - - Supersonic flights must not only avoid passing over national parks, - they also may not fly near them, according to the new regulation. For - each 1,000 feet of altitude, the pilot must allow one-half mile - between the flight path and the park boundary. The regulation also - prohibits supersonic flights below 30,000 feet (over land) so the high - speed planes must allow 15 miles between the nearest park boundary and - the flight path. - -Let us hope that with the aid of this long-needed regulation and -cooperation from visitors, the arches will remain intact for many more -generations to see. - - [Illustration: Petroglyph figure] - - - - -Geographic Setting - - -Geologists have divided the United States into many provinces, each of -which has distinctive geologic and topographic characteristics that set -it apart from the others. One of the most intriguing and scenic of these -is the Colorado Plateaus province, referred to in this report simply as -the Colorado Plateau, or the Plateau (Hunt, C. B., 1956, fig. 1). This -province, which covers some 150,000 square miles and is not all -plateaus, as we shall see, extends from Rifle, Colo., at the northeast -to a little beyond Flagstaff, Ariz., at the southwest, and from Cedar -City, Utah, at the west nearly to Albuquerque, N. Mex., at the -southeast. Arches National Park occupies part of the Canyon Lands -Section, one of the six subdivisions of the Plateau. As the names imply, -the Canyon Lands Section of the Plateau comprises a high plateau -generally ranging in altitude from 5,000 to 7,000 feet, which has been -intricately dissected by literally thousands of canyons. - -Arches National Park is drained entirely by the Colorado River, whose -deep canyon borders the park on the southeast (fig. 1). Most of the park -is drained by Salt Wash, which enters the Colorado River just southeast -of The Windows section, but the southwestern part is drained by -Courthouse Wash and Moab Canyon, whose flows join the Colorado just west -of the bridge on which U.S. Highway 163 crosses the river. - -When viewed at a distance of 1 foot, the shaded relief map (fig. 1) -shows the general shape of the land surface in and near Arches National -Park to the same horizontal scale as it would appear to a person in a -spacecraft flying at a height of 250,000 feet, or about 47.5 miles. This -map was prepared from part of the reverse side of a plastic-relief -map[4] at a scale of 1:250,000 by the U.S. Army Map Service of the Moab -quadrangle, using a simple time- and money-saving method (Stacy, 1962). - - [Illustration: Petroglyph figure] - - - - -Deposition of The Rock Materials - - -The vivid and varied colors of the bare rocks and the fantastic buttes, -spires, columns, alcoves, caves, arches, and other erosional forms of -Arches National Park result from a fortuitous combination of geologic -and climatic circumstances and events unequalled in most other parts of -the world. - -First among these events was the piling up, layer upon layer, of -thousands of feet of sedimentary rocks under a wide variety of -environments. Sedimentary rocks of the region are composed of clay, -silt, sand, and gravel carried and deposited by moving water; silt and -sand transported by wind; and some materials precipitated from water -solutions, such as limestone (calcium carbonate), dolomite (calcium and -magnesium carbonate), gypsum (calcium sulfate with some water), -anhydrite (calcium sulfate alone), common salt (sodium chloride), potash -minerals, such as potassium chloride, and a few other less common types. -Some of the beds were laid down in shallow seas that once covered the -area or in lagoons and estuaries near the sea. Other beds were deposited -by streams in inland basins or plains, a few were deposited in lakes, -and the constituents of deposits like the Navajo Sandstone, were carried -in by the wind. The character and thickness of the exposed sedimentary -rocks and the names and ages assigned to them by geologists are shown in -the rock column (fig. 4) and in the cross section (fig. 8). The history -of their deposition is summarized on pages 98-102. Figure 4 was compiled -mainly from generalized sections given by A. A. Baker (1933), Dane -(1935), McKnight (1940), and Wright, Shawe, and Lohman (1962), and, in -part, from Hite and Lohman (1973). - - [Illustration: ROCK COLUMN OF ARCHES NATIONAL PARK. Average - thickness of units 250-1,000 feet is exaggerated two times; those - less than 250 feet, four times. 1 foot = 0.305 meter. (Fig. 4)] - - - AGE (millions of yrs ago) - GEOLOGIC AGE - NAME OF ROCK UNIT - KIND OF ROCK AND HOW IT IS SCULPTURED BY EROSION - THICKNESS (feet) - NAMED FOR OCCURRENCE AT OR NEAR - - - 100 - Late Cretaceous - Mancos Shale - Lead-gray fossiliferous marine shale. Forms slopes. - ? - Mancos, Colo. - Dakota Sandstone - Conglomeratic sandstone, gray shale, carbonaceous shale, and - coal. Forms ledge. - 100 - Dakota, Nebr. - Unconformity - Late Jurassic - Morrison Fm. - 700 - Morrison, Colo. - Brushy Basin Member - Variegated shale, some sandstone and conglomerate, petrified - wood, chert, and dinosaur bones. May contain some beds - of Burro Canyon (Early Cretaceous) age. - Salt Wash Member - Crossbedded white and gray conglomeratic sandstone beds and - lenses, locally carnotite bearing, and red and gray - sandy mudstone. Forms slopes. - Unconformity - 160 - San Rafael Group - (San Rafael Swell, Utah) - Summerville Fm. - Thin bedded red sandstone and shale. Some cherty limestone - concretions. Forms slopes. - 0-40 - Summerville Point, Utah - Entrada Ss. - (Entrada Point, Utah) - Moab Member - White, crossbedded fine-grained sandstone. Caps Slick Rock - Member north of Devils Garden and Fiery Furnace and on - Klondike Bluffs. - 0-100 - Moab, Utah - Slick Rock Member - Salmon-colored to pink and white fine-grained generally - crossbedded sandstone, containing some medium- to - coarse-grained sand. Generally forms cliffs or narrow - fins many of which contain arches or windows. - 0-240 - Slick Rock, Colo. - Dewey Bridge Member - Red muddy sandstone and sandy mudstone, with contorted - bedding. Forms easily eroded bases to arches in - Windows Section, hence aided in their development. - 0-175 - Dewey Bridge, Utah - Unconformity - 190 - Jurassic and Triassic(?); - Glen Canyon Group - Navajo Sandstone - Massive crossbedded buff, gray, and white fine-grained - sandstone, and local beds of gray limestone. Forms - cliffs along Colorado River, floors Windows Section. - 0-350 - Navajo Country, Four Corners (Glen Canyon, U.) - Late Triassic(?) - Kayenta Formation - Lavender, gray, and white lenses of sandstone, red sandy - shale, and conglomerate. Contains some freshwater - shells. Caps and protects cliffs of Wingate Sandstone. - 0-250 - Kayenta, Ariz. - Late Triassic - Wingate Sandstone - Massive, horizontally bedded and crossbedded reddish buff - fine-grained sandstone. Forms vertical cliffs along - Colorado River, Cache Valley, Salt Wash, and - Courthouse Wash. - 0-350 - Fort Wingate, N. Mex. - 200 - Chinle Formation - Irregularly bedded buff to red sandstone, red mudstone, - limestone, and conglomerate. Lenticular sandstone and - conglomerate (Moss Back Member) locally at base. - Freshwater shells, petrified wood, reptile bones. - Forms slopes. - 0-700 - Chinle Valley, Ariz. - Moss Back Ridge, Utah Unconformity - Middle(?) and Early Triassic - Moenkopi Formation - Thin-bedded brown shale, gray and brown sandstone, arkosic - grit, and conglomerate. Crops out on southwest side of - Moab Valley and in several places in Salt and Cache - Valleys. Forms slopes. - 0-1,300 - Moenkopi Wash, Ariz. - Unconformity - 250 - Permian - Cutler Formation - Chocolate brown and red sandy shale, maroon and pinkish-gray - arkose and conglomerate. Lower part probably - equivalent in age to Rico Formation in areas to south - and east. Crops out in Moab Canyon west of Moab fault. - Forms slopes. - 0-2,500 - Cutler Creek, Colo. - Pennsylvanian - Hermosa Formation - Unnamed upper member - Gray marine fossiliferous sandy limestone, gray and - greenish-gray sandstone and sandy shale, and red sandy - shale. Exposed in ledges southwest of Moab fault in - highway cut west of park entrance. - 0-1,500 - Hermosa Creek, Animas River Valley, Colo. - 300 - Paradox Member - Salt, gypsum, and anhydrite, with black and gray shale and - limestone. Few exposures in Salt and Cache Valleys. - Forms slopes. - 0-11,000 - Paradox Valley, Colo. - Unconformity - Pennsylvanian(?) - Unnamed conglomerate - Yellow sandstone with boulders of limestone and chert - containing Mississippian fossils. Exposed at two - places in Salt Valley. - ? - - -Not exposed in the area but present far beneath the sedimentary cover -and exposed in several places a few miles to the northeast are examples -of the other two principal types of rocks--(1) igneous rocks, solidified -from molten rock forced into or above preexisting rocks along cracks, -joints, and faults, and (2) much older metamorphic rocks, formed from -other preexisting rock types by great heat and pressure at extreme -depths. Igneous rocks of Tertiary age (fig. 59) form the nearby La Sal -Mountains. The particles comprising the sedimentary rocks in the area -were derived by weathering and erosion of all three types of rocks in -various source areas. - -Arches National Park and nearby Canyonlands National Park are both in -the heart of the Canyon Lands Section of the Plateau; therefore, it is -only reasonable to wonder why the differences in their general character -seemingly outweigh their similarities. First, let us consider the -similarities. Both parks are underlain by dominantly red sedimentary -rocks, both parks feature unusual erosional forms of sandstone, and both -contain beautiful natural arches, although the arches in Canyonlands are -restricted almost entirely to the southeastern part of The Needles -section and are in much older rocks than those in Arches. - -To be sure, differences in the rocks themselves play a part in the -dissimilarity of the two parks, and these differences are of two types. -First, there are lateral changes in the character of the strata, known -to geologists as facies changes, brought about by differences in the -environment, in the type of materials, and in the mode of deposition -even within relatively short distances. Thus, during parts of the -Permian Period while sand, later to be known as the Cedar Mesa and White -Rim Sandstone Members of the Cutler Formation, was being deposited in -the southern part of Canyonlands, red mud, silt, and sand of the Cutler -were laid down farther north in Canyonlands (Lohman, 1974, fig. 9), and -similar, though somewhat coarser, beds of the Cutler were laid down at -Arches (fig. 4). Further comparisons of the rock columns in the two -parks show that while limestones of the Rico Formation were being -deposited in a shallow sea in the southern part of Canyonlands, -additional red mud, silt, and sand of the Cutler were being laid down -above sea level in areas to the northeast. The source of the coarser -materials was the ancient Uncompahgre Highland, which stood above sea -level from Late Pennsylvanian time to Late Triassic time (figs. 7, 59). -Although wider and longer, it occupied about the same position as the -present Uncompahgre Plateau between Grand Junction and Gateway, Colo. -Streams eroded the hard igneous and metamorphic rocks from this ancient -landmass and dumped the material into basins to the northeast and -southwest. The basin to the southwest, now called the Paradox basin -(after Paradox Valley, Colo.), at intervals contained shallow seas and -lagoons, which I will discuss later. - -Comparison of the rock columns for the two parks also reveals other -differences. Both parks contain exposures of rocks as old as the -Pennsylvanian Paradox Member of the Hermosa Formation. However, only in -the Horseshoe Canyon Detached Unit of Canyonlands are rocks as young as -the Jurassic Entrada Sandstone, whereas all the spectacular natural -arches that make Arches famous were formed in the Entrada Sandstone, and -Arches also contains several younger formations of Jurassic and -Cretaceous age (fig. 4). - -A commonly asked question is "Why are most of the rocks so red, -particularly those in which the arches were formed?" This can be -answered with one word--iron, the same pigment used in rouge and in -paint for barns and boxcars. Various oxides of iron, some including -water, produce not only brick red but also pink, salmon, brown, buff, -yellow, and even green or bluish green. This does not imply that the -rocks could be considered as sources of iron ore, for the merest trace, -generally only 1 to 3 percent, is enough to produce even the darkest -shades of red. The white or nearly white Navajo Sandstone and the Moab -Member of the Entrada Sandstone contain little or no iron. - -As pointed out by Stokes (1970, p. 3), microscopic examination of the -colored grains of quartz or other minerals shows the pigment to be -merely a thin coating on and between white or colorless particles. Sand -or silt weathered from such rocks soon loses its color by the scouring -action of wind or water, so that most of the sand dunes and sand bars -are white or nearly so. - - - - - Bending And Breaking of The Rocks - - -Perhaps the greatest geologic contrast between these two closely -adjacent parks lies in their different geologic structure--the kind and -amount of bending and breaking of the once nearly flat lying strata. -Consolidated rocks, particularly brittle types, are subject to two types -of fracturing by Earth forces. Joints are fractures along which no -movement has taken place. Faults are fractures along which there has -been displacement of the two sides relative to one another (fig. 6). As -noted in the report on Canyonlands National Park (Lohman, 1974), the -strata there, particularly along the valley of the Green River, are -virtually flat lying or have only very gentle dips. Along the Colorado -River above the confluence with the Green, however, the slightly dipping -strata are interrupted by several gentle anticlinal and synclinal folds -(fig. 5) and by at least one fault (fig. 6). The largest of these -folds--the Cane Creek anticline, which crosses the Colorado River north -of Canyonlands--has yielded oil in the past and is now yielding potash -by solution mining of salt beds in the Paradox Member of the Hermosa -Formation. - - [Illustration: COMMON TYPES OF ROCK FOLDS. Top, Anticline, or - upfold; closed anticlines are called domes. Bottom, Syncline, or - downfold; closed synclines are called basins. From Hansen (1969, p. - 31, 108). (Fig. 5)] - -In strong contrast to Canyonlands, Arches National Park contains three -northwesterly trending major folds and is bordered on the southwest by a -fourth. The largest and most important are the collapsed Salt Valley and -Cache Valley anticlines, which separate the two most scenic groups of -arches and other erosional forms--Eagle Park, Devils Garden, Fiery -Furnace, and Delicate Arch on the northeast, and Klondike Bluffs, -Herdina Park, and The Windows section on the southwest. Farther -southwest is the Courthouse syncline, containing the attractive group of -erosional forms called Courthouse Towers (fig. 1). Finally, near the -southwest edge of the park, is the Seven Mile-Moab Valley anticline -(also known as the Moab-Spanish Valley anticline), whose southwest limb -is cut off by the Moab fault (figs. 7, 23). The folds just named and the -sharply contrasting geologic structures of the two parks are well shown -on sheet 2 of the geologic map of the Moab quadrangle (Williams, 1964), -and the geologic formations are shown in color on sheet 1. - - [Illustration: COMMON TYPES OF FAULTS. Top, Normal, or gravity - fault, resulting from tension in and lengthening of the Earth's - crust. Bottom, reverse fault, resulting from compression in and - shortening of the Earth's crust. Low-angle reverse faults generally - are called overthrusts or overthrust faults. In both types, note - amount of displacement and repetition of strata. Displacements may - range from a few inches or feet to many thousands of feet. From - Hansen (1969, p. 116). (Fig. 6)] - - [Illustration: PARADOX BASIN, in southeastern Utah and southwestern - Colorado, showing the extent of common salt and major potash - deposits in the Paradox Member of the Hermosa Formation, and the - salt anticlines. Adapted from Hite (1972, fig. 1B). (Fig. 7)] - - [Illustration: GEOLOGIC SECTION ACROSS NORTHWEST END OF ARCHES - NATIONAL PARK, showing strata beneath Courthouse syncline and Salt - Valley anticline. For line of section, see figure 9. Caprock - consists of gypsum and shale, from which common salt has been - leached by ground water, covered by alluvium. Heavy slanted lines - near crest of anticline are faults. Adapted from Hite and Lohman - (1973, fig. 13). (Fig. 8)] - - [Illustration: INDEX MAP OF NORTHWESTERN PART OF ARCHES NATIONAL - PARK, showing axes of Courthouse syncline and Salt Valley anticline, - line of section _A_-_A_' in figure 8 and line of section _B_-_B_' in - figure 10. Open circles along line of section are sites of test - wells for oil, gas, or potash. Adapted from Hite and Lohman (1973, - fig. 12). (Fig. 9)] - -Arches National Park and most of nearby Canyonlands National Park lie -within what geologists have termed the "Paradox basin," which contains a -remarkable assemblage of sediments called the Paradox Member of the -Hermosa Formation. These deposits were laid down in shallow seas and -lagoons during Middle Pennsylvanian time, roughly 300 million years ago -(fig. 59). As indicated in figure 4, the Paradox Member contains, in -addition to shale and limestone, minerals deposited by the evaporation -and concentration of sea water--common salt, gypsum, anhydrite, and -potash salts. For this reason such deposits are collectively called -evaporites. Figure 7 also shows that the northeastern part of the -Paradox basin, which is the deepest part, contains a series of partly -alined anticlines which have cores of salt and, hence, are called salt -anticlines. As might be expected, roughly alined synclines intervene -between the anticlines, but are not shown because of space limitations. -According to Cater (1970, p. 50): "The salt anticlines of Utah and -Colorado are unique in North America both in structure and in mode of -development." To this may be added that they also are relatively rare in -the world. - -A section across the Salt Valley anticline and the Courthouse syncline -in the northwestern part of the park is shown in figure 8, and the axes -of these structures are shown in figure 9. - -Normally, a series of roughly parallel northwestward-trending folds -would result from shortening of a segment of the Earth's crust by -compressive forces from the northeast and the southwest, but such does -not seem to be the origin of these folds. The folds occur in a -relatively narrow belt along the northeastern part of the Paradox basin, -the deepest part, which was broken by a series of northwesterly trending -normal faults (fig. 6) that cut the deep-lying Precambrian and older -Paleozoic rocks (fig. 8) prior to the deposition of the salt-bearing -Paradox Member of the Hermosa Formation. Movement along these faults -continued intermittently during and after deposition of the Paradox, -however, and resulted in the formation of a series of northwesterly -trending ridges and troughs. Following Paradox time, normal sediments -derived from a rising landmass to the northeast began to fill the basin. -These sediments accumulated most rapidly and to greater thicknesses in -the fault-derived troughs. Salt differs from normal sediments in two -properties critical to the development of salt anticlines: first, salt -is considerably lighter (fig. 10), and, second, salt under pressure will -flow slowly by plastic deformation, much like ice in a glacier flows -slowly downstream. Thus, salt in the troughs underlying the thicker and -heavier masses of sediments was squeezed into the adjoining ridges, -causing them to rise. Once started, this process tended to be -self-perpetuating, as the flow of salt from beneath the thick masses of -sediments in the troughs made room for the accumulation of still greater -thicknesses of normal sediments. Consequently, the troughs receiving -most of the sediments began to form downfolds, or synclines, and the -ridges receiving little or no normal sediments began to form huge salt -rolls that later were to become the cores of the salt anticlines when -finally the ridges too were buried by sediments. Thus, the cross section -(fig. 8) shows about 12,000 feet of the Paradox Member beneath the crest -of the Salt Valley anticline and only about 2,000 feet beneath the -Courthouse syncline. Near the middle of these structures farther to the -southeast, all the Paradox Member has been squeezed out from beneath the -bordering synclines. - - [Illustration: GRAVITY ANOMALIES OVER SALT VALLEY, along line _B-B'_ - shown in figure 9, and relative densities and shapes of rock bodies - beneath. Densities are in grams per cubic centimeter. Gravity values - are in milligals, as shown. The standard acceleration of gravity is - 980.665 centimeters per second per second; 1 gal is equal to 1 - centimeter per second per second, and 1 milligal is one thousandth - of a gal. Modified from Case and Joesting (1972, fig. 2). (Fig. 10)] - -The general shape of the Salt Valley anticline is shown also by -cross-section _B-B'_ (fig. 10), taken along the northeast-southwest line -_B-B'_ in figure 9, which is based upon so-called gravity anomalies over -Salt Valley. The lighter Paradox Member, having an average density of -2.20, has a lower gravitational attraction than the heavier rocks on -each side, which have an average density of 2.55. - -By this time you are doubtless wondering why prominent upfolds of the -rocks, such as the Salt Valley anticline and associated Cache Valley -anticline and the Seven Mile-Moab Valley anticline, now underlie -relatively deep valleys bordered by prominent ridges. The formation of -these valleys was not simple and involved many steps extending over a -considerable amount of geologic time, as portrayed by Cater (1970, fig. -13; 1972, fig. 4). For a part of the story, let us reexamine the cross -section (fig. 8); the rest of the story will be told in the section on -"Uplift and Erosion." - -Figure 8 shows that the unnamed upper member of the Hermosa Formation -and the overlying Cutler and Moenkopi Formations are thickest beneath -the Courthouse syncline but wedge out against the flanks of the -anticline. Although the Chinle Formation and younger rocks appear to -extend across the fold, and may have extended across this part of the -fold, in Colorado all rocks older than the Jurassic Morrison wedge out -against the flanks of the salt anticlines (Cater, 1970, p. 35) and also -in the widest part of the Salt Valley anticline southwest of the section -in figure 8. The salt anticlines were uplifted in a series of pulses so -that some formations either were not deposited over the rising -structures or were removed by erosion before deposition of the next -younger unit. By Morrison time the supply of salt beneath the synclines -seems to have become used up; hence, the anticline stopped rising, and -the Morrison and younger formations were deposited across the -structures. Thus, in figure 4, the minimum thickness of all units older -than the Morrison is given as zero. Figure 4 shows the marine Mancos -Shale to be the youngest rock unit exposed in the park, but the -Mesaverde Group of Late Cretaceous age and possibly the early Tertiary -(fig. 59) Wasatch Formation may have been deposited and later removed by -erosion. - - - - - Uplift And Erosion of The Plateau - - -Next among the main events leading to the formation of landforms in the -park was the raising and additional buckling and breaking of the Plateau -by Earth forces partly during the Late Cretaceous but mainly during the -early Tertiary. After uplift and deformation, the Plateau was vigorously -attacked by various forces of erosion, and the rock materials pried -loose or dissolved were eventually carted away to the Gulf of California -by the ancestral Colorado River. Some idea of the enormous volume of -rock thus removed is apparent when one looks down some 2,000 feet to the -river from any of the high overlooks farther south, such as Dead Horse -Point (Lohman, 1974, fig. 15). Not so apparent, however, is the fact -that younger Mesozoic and Tertiary rocks more than 1 mile thick once -overlaid this high plateau but have been swept away by erosion. In all, -the river has carried thousands of cubic miles of sediment to the sea -and is still actively at work on this gigantic earth-moving project. In -an earlier report (Lohman, 1965, p. 42) I estimated that the rate of -removal may have been as great as about 3 cubic miles each century. For -a few years the bulk of the sediment was dumped into Lake Mead, but now -Lake Powell is getting much of it. When these and other reservoirs -ultimately become filled with sediment--for reservoirs and lakes are but -temporary things--the Gulf of California will again become the burial -ground. - -According to Cater (1970, p. 65-67), who made an intensive study of the -salt anticlines, collapse of their crests seemingly occurred in two -stages--the first stage following Late Cretaceous folding; the second -following uplift of the Plateau later in the Tertiary. Solution and -removal of salt by ground water played the leading role in the ultimate -collapse. - - [Illustration: TILTED BLOCK OF ROCKS IN CACHE VALLEY GRABEN, viewed - to the east toward Cache Valley from point on gravelled side road to - Wolfe's cabin, about half a mile east of paved road. Steep slope on - left composed of Jurassic Morrison Formation, hogback on top formed - by Dakota Sandstone of Late Cretaceous age, and gentle slopes to - right composed of the Mancos Shale of Late Cretaceous age. (Fig. - 11)] - -As shown by Dane (1935, pl. 1, p. 121-126), collapse of the Salt Valley -and Cache Valley anticlines was accompanied by considerable faulting and -jointing, particularly along their northeast sides; by the upward -intrusion of two large areas of the Paradox Member of the Hermosa -Formation, one just northwest of the park and one in the middle of Salt -Valley south of the campground; and by two downdropped masses of rock -known to geologists as grabens (pronounced gräbens)--one just northwest -of the park and one called the Cache Valley graben, which extends both -east and west from Salt Wash. The Cache Valley graben has preserved from -erosion the youngest rock formations in the park, as shown in figure 11. - -The remarkable jointing of the rocks on the northeast limb of the Salt -Valley anticline is shown in figure 12. All the arches in this section -of the park were eroded through thin fins of the Slick Rock Member of -the Entrada Sandstone, and some, like Broken Arch, figure 16, are capped -by the Moab Member. - -Differences in the composition, hardness, arrangement, and thickness of -the rock layers determine their ability to withstand the forces of -fracturing and erosion and, hence, whether they tend to form cliffs, -ledges, fins, or slopes. Most of the cliff- or ledge-forming rocks are -sandstones consisting of sand deposited by wind or water and later -cemented together by silica (SiO_{2}), calcium carbonate (CaCO_{3}), or -one of the iron oxides (such as Fe_{2}O_{3}), but some hard, resistant -ledges are made of limestone (calcium carbonate). The rock column (fig. -4) shows in general how these rock formations are sculptured by erosion -and how they protect underlying layers from more rapid erosion. The -nearly vertical cliffs along the lower reaches of Salt and Courthouse -Washes and the Colorado River canyon upstream from Moab consist of the -well-cemented Wingate Sandstone protected above by the even harder -sandstones of the Kayenta Formation. (See figs. 21, 22.) To borrow from -an earlier report of mine (Lohman, 1965, p. 17), "Vertical cliffs and -shafts of the Wingate Sandstone endure only where the top of the -formation is capped by beds of the next younger rock unit--the Kayenta -Formation. The Kayenta is much more resistant than the Wingate, so even -a few feet of the Kayenta * * * protect the rock beneath." In some -places, as shown in figures 19 and 20, the overlying Navajo Sandstone -makes up the topmost unit of the cliff. - - [Illustration: JOINTED NORTHEAST FLANK OF SALT VALLEY ANTICLINE, - viewed westward from an airplane. Light-colored wedge in middle - background is Salt Valley bordered on extreme left by Klondike - Bluffs. Dark-colored fins and pinnacles on left, of Slick Rock - Member of the Entrada Sandstone, form Devils Garden. Sharp pinnacle - above valley is the Dark Angel. (See fig. 57.) White bands of - sandstone extending to foreground are composed of Moab Member of the - Entrada. Note vegetation in the joints. Photograph by National Park - Service. (Fig. 12)] - -Last but far from least among the factors responsible for the grandeur -of Arches National Park and the Plateau in general is the desert -climate, which allows one to see virtually every foot of the vividly -colored naked rocks, and which has made possible the creation and -preservation of such a wide variety of fantastic sculptures. A wetter -climate would have produced a far different, smoother landscape in which -most of the rocks and land forms would have been hidden by vegetation. -On the Plateau the vegetation grows mainly on the high mesas and the -narrow flood plains bordering the rivers, but scanty vegetation also -occurs on the gentle slopes or flats. - -The combination of layers of sediments of different composition, -hardness and thickness, the bending and breaking of the rocks, and the -desert climate, has produced steep slopes having many cliffs, ledges, -and fins with generally sharp to angular edges, rather than the subdued -rounded forms of more humid regions. - - - - - Origin And Development of The Arches - - -Among the questions commonly asked by visitors are, "How do arches -form?", "Why are some openings called windows, others arches?", "What is -the difference, if any, between arches or windows and natural bridges, -such as those at Natural Bridges National Monument?", and "How many -arches are there in Arches National Park?" Before taking up the origin -and development of arches, I shall attempt to explain the differences -between the three types of natural rock openings named above and comment -upon the number of arches. - - [Illustration: INDEX MAP, showing localities where most of the - photographs were taken. Arrows point to distant views. Numbers refer - to figure numbers. (Fig. 13)] - -I believe most geologists and geographers are in general agreement with -Cleland (1910, p. 314) that "a 'natural bridge' is a natural stone arch -that spans a valley of erosion. A 'natural arch' is a similar structure -which, however, does not span an erosion valley." According to this -definition, Natural Bridges National Monument includes three true -bridges, whereas all the larger rock openings in Arches National Park -with which I am familiar are properly termed "arches," but some are -called windows. If we were to distinguish between arches and windows, we -might say that arches occur at or near the base of a rock wall, as do -the doors of a house or building, whereas windows are found well above -ground level. This distinction was not followed in naming the rock -openings in the park, however; for example, Tunnel Arch (fig. 14) is -considerably higher above the ground than North Window (figs. 37, 38) or -South Window (fig. 39). - -As to the number of arches in the park, I might begin by saying that -there is no universal agreement as to how large a rock opening must be -to qualify as an arch. The pamphlet formerly handed to visitors entering -the park proclaimed that "Nearly 90 arches have been discovered, and -others are probably hidden away in remote and rugged parts of the area," -but the average visitor probably sees less than a third of this number. - -David May, Assistant Chief of Interpretation and Resource Management, -Moab office of National Park Service (oral commun., Oct. 1973), believes -that if only those in the park having a minimum dimension of 10 feet in -any one direction were considered to be arches, the number would boil -down to about 56 or 57. The most complete count of arches and other -openings in all of southeastern Utah was made by Dale J. Stevens, -Professor of Geography at Brigham Young University, during the period -February through April 1973. He considered those with openings of 3 feet -or larger and found more than 300 in southeastern Utah, of which 124 are -in Arches National Park, although he stated that several areas of the -park were not intensively searched because of time limitations (written -commun., July and Sept. 1973). The 124 arches and openings are -distributed among the several named areas of the park, as follows: -Courthouse Towers, 13; Herdina Park, 11; The Windows section, 25; -Delicate Arch area, 3; Fiery Furnace, 19; Devils Garden, 25; upper -Devils Garden (northwest of Devils Garden), 14; Eagle Park, 2; and -Klondike Bluffs, 12. - -Professor Stevens generally used a range finder or a steel tape to -measure the width and height of the openings and the width and thickness -of the spans, but estimated a few of the dimensions. In the text -descriptions of arches or captions of figures that follow, I am -including all or part of these measurements, without further -acknowledgment. - -All the arches in the park were formed in the Entrada Sandstone, mainly -in the Slick Rock Member but partly in the Slick Rock and Dewey Bridge -Members, and a few in the Slick Rock Member occur not far beneath the -base of the overlying Moab Member. The sandstone of the three members is -composed mainly of quartz sand cemented together by calcium carbonate -(CaCO_{3}), which also forms the mineral calcite and the rock known as -limestone, but the Dewey Bridge Member also contains beds of sandy -mudstone. Limestone and calcite are soluble in acid, even in weak acid -such as carbonic acid, HHCO_{3}, also written H_{2}CO_{3}, formed by the -solution of carbon dioxide (CO_{2}) in water. Ground water, found -everywhere in rock openings at different depths beneath the land -surface, contains dissolved carbon dioxide derived from decaying organic -matter in soil, from the atmosphere, and from other sources. Even -rainwater and snow contain a little carbon dioxide absorbed from the -atmosphere--enough to dissolve small amounts of limestone or of calcite -cement from sandstone. The calcite cement in the Entrada and in many -other sandstones is unevenly distributed, however, so that all the -cement is removed first from places that contain the least amounts, and, -once the cement is dissolved away, the loose sand is carried away by -gravity, wind, or water. - -Both nearly flat but slightly irregular beds of sandstone and relatively -thin walls or fins of sandstone are prime targets for this differential -erosion. Potholes, as shown in figure 18_A_, may be formed in relatively -flat beds by the dissolving action of repeated accumulations of -rainwater or snowmelt, even in arid regions like the Plateau. - -Relatively thin walls, or fins as they are called in parts of the -Plateau including Arches, are targets for the formation of alcoves and -caves by solution of cement and removal of sand by gravity, wind, and -water, aided by the prying action of frost in joints, bedding planes, or -other openings. Once a breakthrough of a wall or fin occurs, weakened -chunks from the ceiling tend to fall, and natural arches of various -shapes and sizes are produced. Arches form the strongest shapes for -supporting overlying rock loads, as the rock in the arch is compressed -toward each abutment by the heavy loads. Blocks of compressed rock -beneath a relatively flat ceiling tend to be dislodged also by expansion -due to release of pent-up pressure, until a strong self-supporting arch -is formed. Release of pent-up pressure in rock walls may help also in -initiating the formation of alcoves or caves in cliff faces. Man, -including the ancient Greeks, Romans, Egyptians, and others, has long -made use of arches in building bridges, aqueducts, temples, cathedrals, -and other enduring edifices. - -As vividly shown in figure 12, the Entrada Sandstone on the northeast -flank of the Salt Valley anticline has been broken by Earth forces into -thin slabs mostly 10 to 20 feet thick between nearly parallel joints, -but, as will be noted in the descriptions of individual arches, some -rock walls are only 1 or 2 feet thick, whereas others are 50 feet thick -or more. Some weak or thin slabs have weathered away, leaving the -stronger or thicker ones as towering fins, particularly in the Fiery -Furnace and Devils Garden areas. Jointing on a less spectacular scale -also has broken the Entrada in areas south of Salt Valley, leaving walls -or fins of rock. - - [Illustration: TUNNEL ARCH, reached by short trail north of main - trail through Devils Garden. Opening is 26-1/2 feet wide and 22 feet - high; span is about 14 feet thick. (Fig. 14)] - -Although all the arches in the park were carved from the Entrada -Sandstone, slight differences in their mode of origin or placement -within the Entrada allow them to be grouped into three classes: (1) -vertical arches formed in the Slick Rock Member alone or in the Slick -Rock and Moab Members, (2) vertical arches formed mainly in the Slick -Rock Member but partly in, and with the aid of, the incompetent -underlying Dewey Bridge Member, and (3) horizontal arches, or so-called -pothole arches, formed from the union of a vertical pothole and a -horizontal cave. Hereinafter, the three members will be referred to -alone, without reference to the Entrada. - - [Illustration: "BABY ARCH," just southwest of Sheep Rock in - Courthouse Towers area. For details, see text. (Fig. 15)] - -Before giving examples of arches in each of the three classes, it is -appropriate to remark that the arches and other erosion forms in the -park represent but a fleeting instant in geologic time. Many of the -pinnacles or piles of rock may be the broken remains of former arches, -and many of the arches we see may be gone tomorrow, next year, or a few -hundreds of years and, certainly, before many thousands of years. On the -other hand, many new arches will form by the processes described above -as the geologic clock ticks on. - - [Illustration: BROKEN ARCH, reached by a 1/2-mile trail leading - northward across field that separates Fiery Furnace from Devils - Garden. White thin-bedded unit at top is the Moab Member, which - rests upon the massive salmon-colored Slick Rock Member. Opening is - 59 feet wide and 43 feet high. (Fig. 16)] - - - Examples of Arches - -Tunnel Arch (fig. 14) is a good example of an arch eroded entirely -within the massive Slick Rock Member. Just southwest of Sheep Rock (fig. -31) is an unnamed opening in the lower part of the Slick Rock Member -which I call "Baby Arch," because it is one of the newest ones visible -from the park road (fig. 15). It is only 25-1/2 feet wide and 14 feet -high and penetrates a wall 14 feet thick. Note that the breakthrough -probably began along the prominent recessed bedding plane at the base of -the arch. Its youthfulness is also indicated by the sharp, angular -breaks in the ceiling and by the pile of freshly fallen rocks. Some -visitors have asked park personnel why they have not cleared away such -debris! Despite its youthfulness, the ceiling has already taken on the -shape of an arch. - -Broken Arch (fig. 16) was formed near the top of the Slick Rock Member -and is strengthened and protected by the more resistant overlying Moab -Member, which forms the upper half of the span. The crest is only 6 feet -thick at the thinnest point and is not broken as the name seems to -imply. - -Double Arch (fig. 17), "one" of the most beautiful in the park, is in -The Windows section near the east end of the road. The southeast arch, -which is 160 feet wide and 105 feet high, is the second largest in the -park, but the west arch measures only 60 feet wide and 61 feet high. In -common with most arches in The Windows section, these two arches of the -Slick Rock Member rest upon bases of the weak, easily eroded Dewey -Bridge Member. More rapid erosion of the Dewey Bridge undercut the -arches and hastened their development. - - [Illustration: DOUBLE ARCH, in The Windows section. (Fig. 17)] - - [Illustration: PROBABLE STEPS IN FORMATION OF POTHOLE ARCH. _A_, - Original pothole probably formed in relatively level bed of - sandstone, such as this one, which is in an older rock unit--the - White Rim Sandstone Member of the Cutler Formation, a unit not - present in Arches. This pothole, which contains 4 feet of water, is - in nearby Canyonlands National Park (Lohman, 1974, fig. 17), just - north of the edge of the White Rim, about 4-1/2 miles north of the - confluence of the Green and Colorado Rivers. Photograph by E. N. - Hinrichs. _B_, Pothole is being deepened by solution while cliff is - receding toward pothole by weathering. _C_, As erosion continues, - pothole and cave in cliff face are growing deeper. _D_, Pothole Arch - formed by union of vertical pothole and horizontal cave. _E_, - Telephoto view of Pothole Arch from park road near stop 14. Visible - span is 90 feet across and 30 feet high. (Fig. 18)] - - [Illustration: Fig. 18 B] - - [Illustration: Fig. 18 C] - - [Illustration: Fig. 18 D] - - [Illustration: Fig. 18 E] - -The cause of the wavy bedding in the Dewey Bridge Member, as shown in -figure 17 but as better shown in the frontispiece, is not known for sure -but generally is regarded to be the result of irregular slumping during -or just after deposition of the sediments in a body of water, caused by -the weight of overlying sediments. - -The last example I shall take up is Pothole Arch (fig. 18), which -differs from all the other examples in that this arch is roughly -horizontal rather than vertical. Most park visitors, including me, were -not aware of this interesting feature until after publication of the -pamphlet "The Guide to an Auto Tour of Arches National Park," which, as -previously noted, may be purchased at the Visitor Center. Pothole Arch -caps a ridge high above the road half a mile northwest of Garden of -Eden, so only those who happened to look up at the right place were -aware of its existence. - -A different mode of origin than that given in the caption for figure 18 -is depicted on a poster in the Visitor Center, which shows the pothole -being formed by a waterfall having an apparent flow rate of several -cubic feet per second. Potholes can be formed in this manner in places -where sufficient streamflow is available, either continuously or -following rainstorms, but I believe the process depicted in figure 18 is -a more likely mode of origin for Pothole Arch. - - - - - How to See the Park - - -As aptly stated on a poster in the Visitor Center, how to see the park -depends in part upon the question "How long can you stay?" Inasmuch as -the park entrance and Visitor Center are beside a through U.S. Highway -(163), many motorists first become aware of the park's existence from -the entrance sign, and some take time for at least a quick visit, such -as a round trip to The Windows section, which can be made in an hour or -so. - -For those who have or take more time and are able to walk at least short -distances, a visit of 1 or 2 days is a very rewarding experience. -Others, particularly avid shutterbugs and those with camping gear, -profitably spend from several days to a week or more and hike all or -most of the trails. - -Regardless of how long you plan to spend, I urge at least a brief stop -at the Visitor Center, where excellent displays and a narrated slide -show help materially in conveying just what the park has to offer. At -the counter you can purchase a copy of "The Guide to an Auto Tour of -Arches National Park," which explains the views from each of 25 numbered -stops along the park road, as well as other reports describing arches or -other parks and monuments. - -The park is open the year round, but, like most high deserts, it gets -rather hot in the summer and cold enough in the winter for occasional -snows and is sometimes closed temporarily because of heavy snowfall. The -weather generally is ideal during the spring and fall. Even though -summer daytime temperatures may exceed 100°F (37.8°C) and slow down -hikers, the nights are cool enough for comfortable sleeping beneath -ample covers. - -Before beginning our trip through the park proper, let us consider a -beautiful part many people fail to realize actually belongs to the -park--the Colorado River canyon forming the southeastern boundary. - - [Illustration: Petroglyph figure] - - - - -A Trip Through The Park - - - Colorado River Canyon - -The southeastern boundary of the park for about 11 miles is the Colorado -River, from the bridge on which U.S. Highway 163 crosses the river to a -point upstream about half a mile below the mouth of Salt Wash. -Illuminated night float trips down part of this reach are run during the -summer, as noted on p. 16. Partly paved State Highway 128 follows the -southeast side of the river for about 30 miles to Dewey Bridge, then -goes northward about 15 miles to Cisco, where it connects with Highway -I-70. - -The rocks of the Glen Canyon Group form the southernmost corner of the -park, as shown in figure 19. About 2 miles northeast of the bridge, we -cross the axis of the Courthouse syncline (fig. 9), which brings the -Navajo Sandstone down nearly to river level, as shown in figure 20. The -underlying Kayenta Formation is largely hidden by vegetation and -alluvial deposits in this view. - - [Illustration: GLEN CANYON GROUP, forming southernmost point of - park, as viewed across the Colorado River from State Highway 128 - half a mile above Moab bridge carrying U.S. Highway 163. Massive - sandstone forming about the lower third of cliff is the Wingate - Sandstone, darker thin-bedded sandstones and mudstones forming - middle section of cliff comprise the Kayenta Formation, upper cliff - is the lower part of the Navajo Sandstone. Note that the saltcedar - (tamarisk), which lines both banks of the river, is in full bloom. - (Fig. 19)] - - [Illustration: NAVAJO SANDSTONE CLIFFS, bordering west bank of - Colorado River in Courthouse syncline, from State Highway 128 about - 2 miles above the Moab bridge. Note rounded domes at top of cliff. - (Fig. 20)] - - [Illustration: MOUTH OF SALT WASH, viewed across Colorado River from - point on State Highway 128, 11 miles above Moab bridge. Dark cliffs - on upper right and left are of Wingate Sandstone capped by thin - protective cover of resistant sandstone beds of the Kayenta - Formation. In background Wingate is overlain by entire Kayenta - Formation and lower part of the Navajo Sandstone. Wingate is - underlain to river level by weathered slope of the Chinle Formation. - Water in Salt Wash is largely backwater from the bankfull river; - actual flow in wash generally is much less but at times reaches - flood proportions. (Fig. 21)] - -About 11 miles above the Moab bridge is the mouth of Salt Wash (fig. 1), -as viewed from State Highway 128. (See fig. 21.) Seventeen miles above -the bridge (east of area shown in fig. 1), we get an excellent view of -the southeast end of the highly faulted Cache Valley anticline, as shown -in figure 22. The background shown in the photograph formerly was the -easternmost part of the former monument, but when the monument graduated -to a park on November 16, 1971, this part of Cache Valley along with -most of Dry Mesa was withdrawn from the park and put under the -supervision of the Bureau of Land Management, also a part of the -Department of the Interior. - - [Illustration: SOUTHEAST END OF FAULTED CACHE VALLEY ANTICLINE, - viewed northwestward across Colorado River from a point on State - Highway 128, 17 miles above Moab bridge. High cliff of Wingate - Sandstone on left is capped by thin protective layer of the Kayenta - Formation. About upper third of slope below base of cliff is the - Chinle Formation, below which is the Moenkopi Formation extending to - high-water level. Note bent and broken beds on right. (Fig. 22)] - -As noted on page 16, part of "Run, Cougar, Run" was filmed just upstream -from the irrigated field in the foreground of figure 22, in a wide part -of the valley called Professor Valley (fig. 7). This valley and the -Richardson Amphitheater on the southeast side of the river were named -after a Professor Richardson who settled in the area in the 1880's. The -long abandoned townsite of Richardson was 1-1/4 miles due east from the -point from which figure 22 was taken. - - - Headquarters Area - -The junction of the park road with U.S. Highway 163 is shown at the -lower left of figure 23, and the entrance station, Visitor Center, -parking lot, and several buildings are seen at the lower right. Several -residences for park personnel and other buildings are shown in figure -25. As shown in the lower part of figure 23, the geology at the park -entrance is rather complex, as the park boundary here is partly along -the Moab fault and partly along a branch fault--both in the Seven -Mile-Moab Valley anticline (fig. 7). The Moab fault extends -northwestward from Moab for more than 30 miles (McKnight, 1940, p. 120, -121, pl. 1). - -As shown in figure 23, soon after leaving the checking station the park -road begins to ascend the first of several switchbacks, and cuts first -into the Slick Rock Member, then the Dewey Bridge Member, and finally -the Navajo Sandstone the rest of the way to and beyond the top of the -hill. - -From points a mile or so up the hill may be seen interesting features in -several directions.[5] The view to the southwest is shown in figure 23, -to the west are the Three Penguins (fig. 24). A good view of the Moab -Valley is had by looking southeastward (fig. 25). A well in the Navajo -Sandstone at the base of the hill supplies water to all the residences -and to the Visitor Center, where a drinking fountain and modern -restrooms are available to the public. Storage is provided by a steel -tank hidden in a ravine above the buildings shown in figure 25. - -To the north the wall of Entrada Sandstone is cut by a normal fault -(fig. 6), as shown in figure 26. - - [Illustration: FAULTED SEVEN MILE-MOAB VALLEY ANTICLINE. Top, View - toward the southwest from park road about 1 mile above entrance - station. Bottom, Geologic interpretation of photograph in part after - McKnight (1940, pl. 1). Moab fault and branch fault (both normal - faults, fig. 6) unite just beyond ridge of Slick Rock Member. Total - vertical displacement along both faults is about 2,500 feet. H.F., - unnamed upper member of Hermosa Formation; M.F., Moenkopi Formation; - D, downthrown side of faults; U, upthrown side. Valley fill and - slope wash of recent (Holocene) age obscure faults and underlying - rocks. The original sequence of the rocks may be visualized by - placing the Navajo Sandstone, the upper part of which is exposed at - the lower right, on top of the Kayenta Formation, the lower few feet - of which cap and protect the cliffs of Wingate Sandstone in the - background. The Pacific Northwest (gas) Pipeline mentioned on page - 15 is buried beneath the slice of the Moenkopi Formation between the - two faults, which accounts for the disturbed appearance of the rock. - (Fig. 23)] - - [Illustration: Geologic interpretation of photograph] - - [Illustration: THREE PENGUINS, viewed westward from park road about - 1 mile above entrance station. Penguins are carved in massive Slick - Rock Member seen resting upon thin-bedded Dewey Bridge Member. (Fig. - 24)] - - [Illustration: MOAB VALLEY, viewed southeastward from park road - about 1 mile above entrance station. Moab fault in about middle of - valley, hidden beneath recent (Holocene) valley fill and slope wash, - separates unnamed upper member of Hermosa Formation just above U.S. - Highway 163 on right from Navajo Sandstone forming hills on left and - ledges in foreground. Park Service residences at base of hill. White - patch bordering Colorado River on northwest is tailings pile of - Atlas Corporation's uranium mill. Moab and Spanish Valley are beyond - river, and south end of La Sal Mountains forms distant skyline. - (Fig. 25)] - - [Illustration: FAULTED WALL OF ENTRADA SANDSTONE, north of park road - about 1 mile above entrance station. Fault is nearly vertical and - normal (fig. 6), but fault trace slopes steeply downward to right, - separating upthrown Slick Rock and Dewey Bridge Members on left from - downthrown Slick Rock Member on right. Light-colored rock in - foreground is Navajo Sandstone. Displacement probably does not - exceed 50 feet. (Fig. 26)] - - [Illustration: PARK AVENUE, viewed to the north along trail. (Fig. - 27)] - - - Courthouse Towers Area - -About 2.3 miles from the entrance station is a turnoff and parking area -at the south end of the Park Avenue trail (stop 2), which is about 1 -mile long and ends at another parking area 1.7 miles farther north. An -interesting hike is best made from south to north in a downhill -direction, and hikers generally meet the cars of relatives or friends -awaiting them at the northern parking area. The trail begins in a canyon -cut in the soft Dewey Bridge Member and walled by high fins of the Slick -Rock Member (fig. 27), but farther north the canyon is floored by the -bare Navajo Sandstone. The avenue was named from the resemblance of the -east wall to a row of tall buildings. Atop the west wall, just to the -left of the view in figure 27, are two balanced rocks (fig. 28). The one -on the left, which resembles somewhat the head of an Egyptian queen, is -offset to the right along a bedding plane, and this offset may have been -caused by an earthquake. - -As we progress toward Courthouse Towers proper, lofty fins and monoliths -lie mostly on our left, and to the right are fine distant views of the -La Sal Mountains (stop 4). A general view of the Courthouse Towers is -shown in figure 29, and closeups of two of the named rock -sculptures--the Three Gossips and Sheep Rock--are shown in figures 30 -and 31. Just beyond Sheep Rock, which some think resembles the Sphinx, -we see "Baby Arch," shown in figure 15. - -Five miles from the entrance station, the road crosses Courthouse Wash -on a modern bridge (stop 6)--a distinct improvement over the two tracks -in the sand we used in 1946. The Courthouse syncline, named after the -wash, extends northwestward through here. (See figs. 8, 9, 20.) About a -mile west of the bridge, Professor Stevens found another pothole arch. A -mile and a half north of the bridge is stop 7, where attention is called -in the booklet to the vast area of "petrified dunes" east of the road, -which are simply dunelike exposures of the crossbedded Navajo Sandstone -formed originally by the cementation of a vast area of sand dunes. My -view of these was taken about 1 mile beyond the stop (fig. 32). - - [Illustration: BALANCED ROCKS ON SOUTH WALL OF PARK AVENUE, at south - end of trail. (Fig. 28)] - - [Illustration: COURTHOUSE TOWERS, viewed to the northwest from point - on park road about three-fourths of a mile northeast of the south - end of Park Avenue trail. Sandstone towers are Slick Rock Member - resting on Dewey Bridge Member, which also forms foreground. Three - Gossips at upper left, Sheep Rock just beyond. The Organ and Tower - of Babel are on right. (Fig. 29)] - - [Illustration: THE THREE GOSSIPS, shown at upper left of figure 29. - (Fig. 30)] - - [Illustration: SHEEP ROCK, shown on center-left skyline in figure - 29. (Fig. 31)] - -West of the road between the petrified dunes and The Windows section, -the Entrada Sandstone, particularly the Dewey Bridge Member, has been -weathered into grotesque spires and pinnacles resembling the so-called -"hoodoos and goblins" in Goblin Valley State Park, just north of -Hanksville, Utah. Typical examples of "hoodoos and goblins" are shown in -figure 33 (near stop 8). It seems reasonable to assume that some of -these spires are the skeletal remains of former arch abutments. From -here may be seen North and South Windows and Turret Arch on the skyline -to the northeast (figs. 37-40). - - [Illustration: PETRIFIED SAND DUNES, looking northeast from park - road 2.7 miles north of Courthouse Wash. The Navajo Sandstone was - once a huge sandpile of dunes laid down by winds during an arid - interval, so it is interesting to note that the irregularly - weathered sandstone once again resembles a pile of crossbedded - dunes. See also figure 35. (Fig. 32)] - - [Illustration: "HOODOOS AND GOBLINS," weathered from Dewey Bridge - Member, viewed northwest from park road about 2-1/2 miles north of - Courthouse Wash. (Fig. 33)] - - - The Windows Section - -The Windows section, one of the most beautiful parts of the park, once -was the only readily accessible part of the former monument and is still -the only collection of arches seen by many visitors who either do not -have or do not take time to travel farther north. All the arches and -erosion forms are on or near a high crest called Elephant Butte (Dane, -1935, p. 126, 127), which separates Salt Valley from the Courthouse -syncline. The ridge also marks the south edge of several minor -anticlines and synclines termed by Dane the "Elephant Butte folds." - - [Illustration: EYE OF THE WHALE, one of several arches in Herdina - Park, just south of jeep trail about 2 miles northwest of Balanced - Rock. Cut in Slick Rock Member. Front opening is 60 feet wide and 27 - feet high, but back opening is only 35 feet wide and 11 feet high. - Photograph by Professor Dale J. Stevens, Brigham Young University. - (Fig. 34)] - -Guarding the approach to The Windows section is Balanced Rock (stop 9). -As shown in the frontispiece, it is accompanied on the right by another -balanced rock and a third one may be seen in the distance. The original -route to The Windows section, pioneered by Goulding, passed just north -of Balanced Rock. Traces of the old road between here and the Garden of -Eden parking area are still visible but no longer used. To the west, -however, a part of the old road is the starting point of a jeep trail -leading northwestward through Herdina Park to a point near Klondike -Bluffs, where it joins the dirt road in Salt Valley (fig. 1). Visitors -having four-wheel-drive vehicles may wish to drive at least as far as -Eye of The Whale (fig. 34), which is about 2 miles northwest of Balanced -Rock. There are several picnic tables at the beginning of this jeep -trail, but no water. - - [Illustration: INTRICATE CROSSBEDS IN NAVAJO SANDSTONE, on north - side of road between Garden of Eden and Cove of Caves. Red crest is - basal part of Dewey Bridge Member. (Fig. 35)] - -Just beyond Balanced Rock, a branch paved road turns eastward 2-1/2 -miles to the main parking lots in The Windows section. Between the -Garden of Eden (stop 13) and Cove of Caves are spectacular exposures of -the Navajo Sandstone showing the crossbedding typical of the original -dunes (fig. 35). Just east of the crossbedded Navajo Sandstone, shown in -figure 35, we pass Cove Arch and Cove of Caves (stop 10) on the north -side of the road (fig. 36). - -Just around the curve east of Cove of Caves is the first of two parking -lots (stop 11) forming a one-way loop at the end of this branch of the -road. From the loop may be seen the greatest concentration of readily -accessible arches in the park, all of which are roofed by the Slick Rock -Member and floored by the Dewey Bridge Member. Let us take the short -paved trail from the upper lot to the southeast, where we come first to -North Window (fig. 37). If we walk through this arch and climb the rock -beyond (fig. 37 caption), we see one of the best views in the park (fig. -38). A short walk south of North Window brings us to South Window (fig. -39). The other side of this arch may be reached either by walking around -the nearby southeast end of the fin or by walking through North Window. -A short walk to the southwest brings us to Turret Arch--the one seen -through North Window in figure 38. Figure 40 was taken from the -southwest side of Turret Arch, viewed northeastward toward South Window, -one corner of which appears at the left. Both North and South Windows -may be seen in one photograph taken from points near Turret Arch. - - [Illustration: COVE ARCH AND COVE OF CAVES, on north side of road - just west of Double Arch and Parade of Elephants. Arch at left and - three of the caves on right are roofed by Slick Rock Member and - floored by Dewey Bridge Member. Arch is 48-1/2 feet wide and 34 feet - high. In time the caves will eat through the 30-foot-thick fin and - become arches. Note sharp contact between Dewey Bridge Member and - Navajo Sandstone. (Fig. 36)] - - [Illustration: NORTH WINDOW, viewed to the northeast. Large rock - seemingly partly blocking left end of arch actually is the southeast - end of a fin some 50 feet or more beyond the arch, from which figure - 38 was taken. Arch is 93 feet wide and 51 feet high. (Fig. 37)] - -From the lower parking lot (stop 12), a short walk by paved trail takes -us to spectacular Double Arch, shown in figure 17. This arch is visible -from the parking lot but is best seen and photographed from at or near -the end of the trail. Looking westward from near the trail's end, we see -the Parade of Elephants, shown in figure 41. This feature is described -on pages 16 and 17 of "The Guide to an Auto Tour of Arches National -Park" as "whimsical stone statuary resembling a circus pachyderm parade. -With tail in trunk, the elephants rumble toward you along a sandstone -roadway." - -Ribbon Arch, on the north side of Elephant Butte, is one of the most -delicate ones in the park (fig. 1). Although it is 50 feet wide and 55 -feet high, the rock span is only 1-1/2 feet wide and 1 foot thick. - -On the way back to the intersection with the main park road, we pass -stop 14, from which may be seen Pothole Arch (fig. 18). One and one-half -miles north of the intersection with the main road is the Panorama Point -parking area (stop 15), which affords fine distant views of Salt and -Cache Valleys and points beyond. A roadside exhibit portrays the gradual -development of the Salt Valley anticline, which supplements my -description on pages 27-32. A parking space a short distance farther -down the hill (stop 16) provides good distant views of the Fiery -Furnace. I tried several telephoto shots from this viewpoint, but -preferred my closeup views, such as the one shown in figure 44. - - [Illustration: LOOKING SOUTHWESTWARD THROUGH NORTH WINDOW, from fin - shown beyond left side of North Window in figure 37. Turret Arch - (fig. 40) is seen at right middle ground, south rim of Moab Valley - to left of arch, Colorado River canyon forms left skyline. (Fig. - 38)] - - [Illustration: SOUTH WINDOW, viewed toward northeast. Arch is 105 - feet wide and 66 feet high. See text. (Fig. 39)] - - - Delicate Arch Area - -Two and a half miles northeast of the road intersection near Balanced -Rock, a gravelled side road leads northeastward to several points of -considerable interest. The photograph in figure 11 was taken from this -side road about half a mile northeast of the intersection. About 2 miles -to the northeast, just beyond Salt Valley Wash, is a parking area (stop -17) at the beginning of the trail past Wolfe's Bar-DX Ranch (fig. 3) to -famed Delicate Arch, which is featured on the front cover. Although the -trail to the arch is only 1-1/2 miles long, it crosses several hills at -the outset, then climbs 500 feet, mostly on bare Entrada Sandstone, so -is considered quite strenuous, particularly in hot weather. The Park -Service advises hikers to carry water. The Walt Disney crew, cameras, -gear, cougars, and all climbed this trail in the hottest part of the -summer of 1971 (see p. 16), while my wife and I were working in the -vicinity. Visitors who do not wish to make the hike may get a distant -view of Delicate Arch by driving to a parking area (stop 18) 1.3 miles -farther east. - - [Illustration: TURRET ARCH, viewed northeast toward South Window, - part of which is visible on left. Small opening on right is visible - also in figure 38. Largest arch is 39 feet wide and 64 feet high; - smaller one is 12 feet wide and 13 feet high. A still smaller one, - not visible in the photograph, is 8 feet wide and only 4-1/2 feet - high. (Fig. 40)] - - [Illustration: PARADE OF ELEPHANTS, viewed west from end of trail to - Double Arch. Two elephants are on right, one on left. (Fig. 41)] - -After leaving Wolfe's Ranch, the trail to Delicate Arch crosses Salt -Wash on a suspension foot bridge (fig. 42). Just beyond the bridge, a -short walk to the left (north) leads to the Ute petroglyphs shown in the -lower photograph of figure 2. The most difficult part of the trail, on -bare sandstone, is marked by cairns of stones placed at sufficient -intervals to keep hikers from losing the barely visible trail. When the -summit finally is reached and the last corner rounded, one suddenly sees -perhaps the most sublime view in the park--famed Delicate Arch, framing -part of the La Sal Mountains beyond (fig. 43). This graceful arch and -mighty Landscape Arch (fig. 53) were considered to be in serious -jeopardy during the era of sonic booms, but hopefully this danger now is -past. (See p. 16-17.) - -It may be of interest to shutterbugs that professional photographer Hal -Rumel lugged an 8- x 10-inch camera plus a heavy tripod and accessories -up the steep trail to get the excellent photograph of Delicate Arch -shown in figure 43. The late afternoon sun intensified the red somewhat, -but my shots made earlier in the day using both 4- x 5-inch and 35-mm -equipment resulted in unwanted shadows, even though the salmon color of -the Slick Rock Member was more nearly normal. - -After leaving the junction with the side road, the main park road -traverses slices of vertical strata squeezed between faults along the -north side of Salt Valley, then gradually climbs out of the valley for -about 2 miles to a parking area (stop 19), from which good views are had -of the southeast end of Salt Valley and of the grabens in the west end -of Cache Valley. (See fig. 11.) - - [Illustration: Petroglyph figure] - - [Illustration: SUSPENSION FOOT BRIDGE ACROSS SALT WASH, in front of - Wolfe's cabin at beginning of Delicate Arch trail. (Fig. 42)] - - [Illustration: DELICATE ARCH, from end of trail 1-1/2 miles above - Wolfe's Ranch. The opening is 33 feet wide and 45 feet high. The - left abutment is only 5 feet wide at the narrowest point. The arch - is carved near the top of the Slick Rock Member, and the top of the - span, 19 feet thick, is capped by a few feet of the more resistant - Moab Member, as is Broken Arch (fig. 16). Photograph by Hal Rumel, - Salt Lake City. (Fig. 43)] - - - Fiery Furnace - -About half a mile farther uphill is a parking area for viewing the -southeastern part of the Fiery Furnace (stop 20), a vast array of -towering fins and pinnacles of the reddish Slick Rock Member separated -by narrow slots, vaguely resembling flames shooting skyward. The view of -the Fiery Furnace in figure 44 was taken about 1 mile farther up the -hill. It is not difficult to get lost among this myriad of fins and -narrow slots, so ranger-guided tours are conducted during the summer. - -About 1 mile farther northwest is a parking area (stop 23) from which a -short walk to the north end of Fiery Furnace leads to a narrow slot -between high fins (fig. 45), along which a short sandy trail leads to a -recess along the southwest wall containing Sand Dune Arch (fig. 46). -This hidden arch receives sunshine only near the middle of the day and -is a delightful, shady place to rest. - -From the entrance to the slot leading to Sand Dune Arch, a trail goes -half a mile north across an open field to Broken Arch, shown in figure -16. This field, which separates the Fiery Furnace and Devils Garden -areas, is seen from the air in figure 12. - - [Illustration: Petroglyph figure] - - [Illustration: FIERY FURNACE, viewed northwest along park road about - 1 mile northwest from stop 20. Fins and spires are of the jointed - Slick Rock Member (fig. 12), but the top of the Dewey Bridge Member - is seen to the right of the curve in the road. (Fig. 44)] - - [Illustration: TRAIL TO SAND DUNE ARCH, looking northwest away from - arch, between towering fins of Slick Rock Member, at northwest end - of Fiery Furnace. Southeast end of Devils Garden in distance. (Fig. - 45)] - - [Illustration: SAND DUNE ARCH, in recess along southwest wall of - narrow slot shown in figure 45. Slick Rock Member. (Fig. 46)] - - - Salt Valley and Klondike Bluffs - -Before proceeding to the end of the paved road, let us take an -unimproved side road, which turns south about a third of a mile beyond -the last stop, in order to see more of Salt Valley and to visit Klondike -Bluffs in the northwestern part of the park. After descending 2.3 miles -of winding road we reach the normally dry bed of Salt Valley Wash, and -turn abruptly to the northwest. For the next three-fourths of a mile the -"road" is simply two tracks in the loose, sandy bed of the wash, which -obviously should not be travelled when flooded or when there is even a -hint of rain. In dry weather, however, this road may be travelled by -ordinary passenger car. This stretch of the wash cuts through an -intruded block of the Paradox Member of the Hermosa Formation consisting -mainly of gray and brown gypsum, the common salt having been dissolved -out by ground water. Such an intrusive block of salt-bearing rock is -known to geologists as a diapir--not to be confused with the garment -(diaper) worn by infants. - -From here on the road traverses a rather uninteresting stretch of valley -north of Salt Valley Wash. Eleven miles from the starting point, the -road reaches an intersection from which a side road leads southwestward -three-fourths of a mile to a parking area at the foot of Klondike -Bluffs, which form the south side of Salt Valley. From here, one may -make a strenuous hike over a primitive trail about 1-1/2 miles long to -beautiful Tower Arch (fig. 47). - -The valley road continues northwestward from the intersection to and -beyond the northwest end of the park and connects with roads to Crescent -Junction, Thompson, and the Yellow Cat mining district, north of the -park (p. 14). - -Let us return to the paved road and continue our tour of the park. - - - Devils Garden - -Turning left (northwest) at the intersection with the paved park road, -we enter Devils Garden--another large maze of towering red fins -separated by narrow slots, which resembles the Fiery Furnace. After a -third of a mile, we reach stop 24 and walk 100 feet or more to the north -for a good view of Skyline Arch (fig. 48). This arch is very -appropriately named, as it forms the skyline viewed either from the road -on the south or from the campground on the north, from points south of -the amphitheater. Less well known is the fact that Skyline Arch is -clearly visible to the naked eye or through binoculars from stretches of -Highway I-70 (or old U.S. Highways 6 and 50) about 11 miles to the -north. Most arches and other erosion forms do not change appearance much -from day to day or year to year, but some, like "Baby Arch" (fig. 15), -show evidence of relatively recent origin. In November 1940 (Abbey, -1971, p. 42) Skyline Arch suddenly doubled in size by the fall of a -large rock that occupied what is now the northwest half of the arch. -Photographs taken before and after this event appear on pages 24 and 25 -of the road guide and also in the museum at the Visitor Center. - - [Illustration: TOWER ARCH, on Klondike Bluffs, viewed eastward. Arch - is in Slick Rock Member but tower on left, after which arch was - named, is capped by a protective layer of the resistant Moab Member. - Opening is 88 feet wide and 43 feet high. Photograph by Robert D. - Miller. (Fig. 47)] - - [Illustration: SKYLINE ARCH, viewed north from point about 100 feet - north of stop 24, in Slick Rock Member. Although fins are vertical, - note that the strata seem to dip about 15° to the right, although - the actual dip is to the northeast. (See fig. 50.) (Fig. 48)] - -Another half mile brings us to a one-way (to right) loop at the end of -the park road. Just beyond the beginning of the loop is a parking lot -and very attractive picnic area containing several picnic tables shaded -by piņon pines at the foot of a towering red fin of the Slick Rock -Member. Just north of this picnic ground, a paved side road leads -eastward into a truly beautiful, well-equipped campground comprising -both back-in and drive-through campsites for trailers, campers, or -tents; three pairs of modern restrooms, hydrants, and drinking -fountains; and an amphitheater, where illustrated campfire talks are -given nightly during the summer. The east end of the campground is shown -in figure 49. - - [Illustration: CAMPGROUND IN DEVILS GARDEN, viewed northwestward - across turn-around at southeastern end. (Fig. 49)] - -Devils Garden in general and the campground in particular are on the -crest of a ridge separating Salt Valley to the southwest from the Sagers -Wash syncline to the northeast, which lies north of Yellow Cat Flat and -north of the area shown in figure 1. From the higher parts of the -campground striking views are to be had toward the north and northeast, -particularly late in the afternoon, as shown in figure 50. - - [Illustration: VIEW NORTH FROM CAMPGROUND, in late afternoon. - Reddish Slick Rock Member capped by light-colored Moab Member are - seen dipping northeastward toward Sagers Wash syncline. Book Cliffs, - north of Thompson, are 16 miles north on left skyline. (Fig. 50)] - -In about the middle of the one-way loop at the end of the park road is a -well that supplies water to the campground from early in the spring -until the return of freezing weather late in the fall. The well, which -was drilled in 1962 to a depth of 900 feet, obtains a small amount of -water from the Wingate Sandstone. No water was found in the overlying -Navajo and Entrada Sandstones because of the pronounced dip of the rocks -toward the northeast, which allows any water in these rocks to drain -northeastward (Ted Arnow, written commun., 1963). Water from this well -is pumped to a steel tank in a high part of the campground, whence it -flows by gravity to the three sets of restrooms. - - [Illustration: SOUTHEASTERN PART OF DEVILS GARDEN TRAIL, viewed - northwestward. Narrow slot between fins of Slick Rock Member - indicates local spacing of joints. (Fig. 51)] - -At the northwest end of the one-way loop is a large parking area for use -by people hiking the Devils Garden trail. This trail leads to seven of -the most interesting arches in the park, all of which are in the Slick -Rock Member, and there are many more farther to the northwest. The -approximate distances to the seven arches are given in the paragraphs -that follow. The trail is paved for about 1 mile as far as Landscape -Arch (fig. 53), but from there to Double O Arch (fig. 56) the trail is -primitive, and the Park Service recommends rubber soles as part of the -trail is on bare sandstone. For these reasons, many visitors hike only -as far as Landscape Arch. - - [Illustration: PINE TREE ARCH, viewed northeastward. Opening is 46 - feet wide and 48 feet high. Fin is 30 feet thick. (Fig. 52)] - -Much of the trail, particularly the first part, lies in a narrow slot -between fins of the Slick Rock Member, as shown in figure 51. After -about half a mile, a side trail to the north leads to a Y, the -right-hand fork of which goes to Tunnel Arch (fig. 14). The left-hand -fork leads to Pine Tree Arch, obviously named for the piņon pine framed -by this arch (fig. 52). - -At the end of the improved part of the trail, we reach Landscape Arch -(fig. 53), claimed by the Park Service to be the longest known natural -arch in the world. According to Ouellette (1958) it is 291 feet long and -118 feet high, but Professor Stevens' measurements indicate it to be 287 -feet long and 106 feet high. At its thinnest point on the right, the -span is only 11 feet wide and 11 feet thick. In 1958 three young men -made what was claimed to be the second known ascent of Landscape Arch, -using ropes and other climbing gear, after which they walked across -(Ouellette, 1958). This crossing was made with the permission of a park -ranger, but such permission is no longer given, for the safety of both -the arch and of would-be climbers. - -Wall Arch is about a quarter of a mile beyond the end of the improved -part of the trail, and another three-fourths mile brings us to Navajo -Arch (fig. 54) and Partition Arch (fig. 55). A distant view of Partition -Arch may be had just before reaching Landscape Arch. Part of the -remaining trail to Double O Arch (fig. 56) is on the top of a low -sandstone fin, in part between somewhat higher fins and in part above -lower slots. - - [Illustration: LANDSCAPE ARCH, viewed southwestward from near end of - improved part of Devils Garden trail. Note that ground beneath arch - is covered by slope wash and near the middle with what appears to be - a small landslide. Slick Rock Member here is more nearly buff than - salmon colored, because of a smaller content of iron oxide. Fresh - breaks and angular blocks of stone at right abutment indicate - relatively recent rock falls. See text for size. (Fig. 53)] - - [Illustration: NAVAJO ARCH, viewed northeastward from a branch of - Devils Garden trail. One of few arches having a flat soil-covered - floor. Opening is 40-1/2 feet wide. Photograph by National Park - Service. (Fig. 54)] - -Beautiful Double O Arch (fig. 56) is at the end of the Devils Garden -trail about 2-1/2 miles northwest of the trailhead. About half a mile -northwest of the trail's end is a prominent landmark called Dark Angel -(fig. 57), which is visible in figure 12 and from the unimproved road in -Salt Valley. - - [Illustration: PARTITION ARCH, viewed southwestward from near Devils - Garden trail. Arch frames part of south wall of Salt Valley and, on - skyline, mesas south of Moab Valley. Opening is 27-1/2 feet wide and - 26 feet high. A smaller opening to the right measures 8-1/2 feet - wide and 8 feet high. Photograph by Dawn E. Reed. (Fig. 55)] - - [Illustration: DOUBLE O ARCH, viewed about north from northwest end - of Devils Garden trail. Large opening is 71 feet wide and 45 feet - high; small one at lower left is 21 feet wide and 11 feet high. Span - of large opening is 11 feet wide and 6 feet thick. Arch frames a - part of the Book Cliffs about 14 miles to the north. Photograph by - Hildegard Hamilton, Flagstaff, Ariz. (Fig. 56)] - - [Illustration: DARK ANGEL, a shaft of the Slick Rock Member that is - an erosional remnant of a once high, narrow fin. About one-half mile - northwest of Double O Arch. Photograph by National Park Service. - (Fig. 57)] - - [Illustration: "INDIAN-HEAD ARCH," in upper Devils Garden. Arch and - most of head are in Slick Rock Member, top of head is basal part of - Moab Member. Opening is 4 feet wide and 4-1/2 feet high. Photograph - by Professor Dale J. Stevens, Brigham Young University. (Fig. 58)] - - [Illustration: GEOLOGIC TIME SPIRAL, showing the sequence, names, - and ages of the geologic eras, periods, and epochs, and the - evolution of plant and animal life on land and in the sea. The - primitive animals that evolved in the sea during the vast - Precambrian Era left few traces in the rocks because they had not - developed hard parts, such as shells, but hard shell or skeletal - parts became abundant during and after the Paleozoic Era. (Fig. 59)] - - - - - GEOLOGIC TIME - The Age of the Earth - - The Earth is very old--4.5 billion years or more according to recent - estimates. Most of the evidence for an ancient Earth is contained in - the rocks that form the Earth's crust. The rock layers - themselves--like pages in a long and complicated history--record the - surface-shaping events of the past, and buried within them are - traces of life--the plants and animals that evolved from organic - structures that existed perhaps 3 billion years ago. - - Also contained in rocks once molten are radioactive elements whose - isotopes provide Earth scientists with an atomic clock. Within these - rocks, "parent" isotopes decay at a predictable rate to form - "daughter" isotopes. By determining the relative amounts of parent - and daughter isotopes, the age of these rocks can be calculated. - - Thus, the results of studies of rock layers (stratigraphy), and of - fossils (paleontology), coupled with the ages of certain rocks as - measured by atomic clocks (geochronology), attest to a very old - Earth! - -Professor Stevens found 14 arches in what he called upper Devils Garden, -northwest of Double O Arch, and two arches in the northwesternmost -extension of the park known as Eagle Park (fig. 1). One of the unnamed -arches in upper Devils Garden is shown in figure 58. I am tentatively -calling it "Indian-Head Arch," because of the rather obvious -resemblance. - -This ends our journey through Arches National Park, but there remains -for consideration a summary of the principal geologic events leading to -the formation of this beautiful part of the Colorado Plateau and a brief -comparison with the geology of other national parks and monuments on the -Plateau. - - - - - Summary of Geologic History - - -Having finished our geologic trip through Arches National Park, let us -see how the arches and other features fit into the bigger scheme of -things--the geologic age and events of the Earth as a whole, as depicted -in figure 59. As shown in figure 4, the rock strata still preserved in -the park range in age from Pennsylvanian to Cretaceous, or from about -300 million to 100 million years old--a span of about 200 million years. -This seems an incredibly long time, until one notes that the earth is -some 4.5 billion years old, and that our rock pile is but 1/23 or 4-1/2 -percent of the age of the Earth as a whole. Thus, in figure 59, the -rocks exposed in the park occupy only about the left half of the top -whorl of the spiral. - -But this is not the whole story. As indicated earlier, younger Mesozoic -and Tertiary rocks more than 1 mile thick that once covered the area -have been carried away by erosion, and if we include these the span is -increased to about 250 million years, or nearly a full whorl of the -spiral. - -Deep tests for oil and gas tell us that much older rocks underlie the -area, and we have seen that some of these played a part in shaping the -park we see today. In addition to the Precambrian igneous and -metamorphic rocks, there is about 2,000 feet of Paleozoic sedimentary -rocks older than the Pennsylvanian Paradox Member of the Hermosa -Formation, most of which was laid down in ancient seas. This includes -strata of Cambrian, Ordovician, Devonian, Mississippian, and -Pennsylvanian ages (fig. 59). There are some gaps in the rock record -caused by temporary emergence of the land above sea level and erosion of -the land surface before the land again subsided below sea level so that -deposition could resume. Silurian rocks are absent, presumably because, -here, the Silurian Period was dominated by erosion rather than -deposition. - -While Pennsylvanian and Permian rocks were being laid down in and -southwest of the park, a large area to the northeast, called by -geologists the Uncompahgre Highland (because it occupied the same -general area as part of the present Uncompahgre Plateau), rose slowly -above sea level. Whatever Paleozoic rocks were on this rising land plus -part of the underlying Precambrian rocks were eroded and carried by -streams into deep basins to the northeast and southwest. Thus, while -some marine or near-shore deposits were being laid down in and south of -the park, thousands of feet of red beds were being laid down by streams -between the park and what is now the Uncompahgre Plateau. During part of -Middle Pennsylvanian time, a large area, including the park, known as -the Paradox basin, was alternately connected to or cut off from the sea, -so that the water was evaporated during cutoff periods and replenished -during periods when connection with the sea resumed. In these huge -evaporation basins were deposited the salt and gypsum plus some potash -salts and shale that now make up the Paradox Member of the Hermosa -Formation. - -Arches National Park contains four northwesterly trending major -folds--the Salt Valley and Cache Valley salt anticlines, the Courthouse -syncline, and the faulted Moab-Seven Mile anticline, which forms the -southwestern border. How these folds were formed was explained on pages -27-32. The history of their growth, however, was a long one that began -about 300 million years ago in the Pennsylvanian and ended about 50 -million years ago in the early Tertiary. The growth of these folds -occurred in two stages. The first stage, which involved the development -of the salt cores of the anticlines, ended in the Jurassic with the -beginning of Morrison time; the second stage, which involved additional -folding that intensified the magnitude and shape of existing folds, -occurred in the early Tertiary and was followed later by collapse of the -salt anticlines. The formation and collapse of the Salt Valley and Cache -Valley anticlines was accompanied by pronounced jointing (fig. 12), -which allowed differential erosion to produce the tall fins in which the -arches were formed. - -The old Uncompahgre Highland continued to shed debris into the bordering -basins until Triassic time, when it began to be covered by a veneer of -red sandstone and siltstone of the Chinle Formation (Lohman, 1965). The -area remained above sea level during the Triassic Period and most, if -not all, of the Jurassic Period, although the Jurassic Carmel Formation -was laid down in a sea that lay just to the west. - -Late in the Cretaceous Period a large part of Central and Southeastern -United States, including the eastern half of Utah, sank beneath the sea -and received thousands of feet of mud, silt, and some sand that later -compacted into the Mancos Shale. This formation, as well as all younger -and some older strata, has long since been eroded from most of the park -area, but a little of the Mancos is preserved in the Cache Valley graben -(fig. 11), and the entire Mancos Shale and younger rocks are present in -adjacent areas, such as the Book Cliffs north of Green River, Crescent -Junction, and Cisco (figs. 7, 50, 56). - -The land rose above the sea at about the close of the Cretaceous and has -remained above ever since, although inland basins and lakes received -sediment during parts of the Tertiary Period. Compressive forces in the -Earth's crust produced some gentle folding of the strata at the close of -the Cretaceous, but more pronounced folding and some faulting occurred -during the Eocene Epoch, when most of the Rocky Mountains took form. -During the Miocene Epoch igneous rock welled up into older rocks to form -the cores of the nearby La Sal, Abajo, and Henry Mountains. Additional -uplift and some folding occurred in the Pliocene and Pleistocene Epochs. - -Much of the course of the Colorado River was established during the -Miocene Epoch, with some additional adjustments in the late Pliocene and -early Pleistocene Epochs (Hunt, C. B., 1969, p. 67). Erosion during much -of the Tertiary Period and all of the Quaternary Period plus some -sagging and breaking of the crest of the anticlines, brought on by -solution and lateral squeezing of salt beds beneath the Moab-Seven Mile, -Salt Valley, and Cache Valley anticlines, combined to produce the -landscape as we now see it. - -The Precambrian rocks beneath the area are about 1.5 billion years old; -so an enormous span of time is represented by the rocks and events in -and beneath Canyonlands National Park. - -If we consider the geologic formations that make up the national parks -(N.P.), national monuments (N.M.) (excluding small historical or -archaeological ones), Monument Valley, San Rafael Swell, and Glen Canyon -National Recreation Area, all in the Colorado Plateau, it becomes -apparent that certain formations or groups of formations play starring -roles in some parks or monuments, some play supporting roles, and in a -few places the entire cast of rocks gets about equal billing. Let us -compare them and see how and where they fit into the "Geologic Time -Spiral" (fig. 59). - -Dinosaur N.M., with exposed rocks ranging in age from Precambrian to -Cretaceous, covers the greatest time span (nearly 2 billion years), but -has one unit--the Jurassic Morrison Formation--in the starring role, for -this unit contains the many dinosaur fossils that give the monument its -name and fame, although there are several older units in supporting -roles. Grand Canyon N.P. and N.M. are next, with rocks ranging in age -from Precambrian through Permian (excluding the Quaternary lava flows in -the N.M.), but here there is truly a team effort, for the entire cast -gets about equal billing. Canyonlands N.P. stands third in this -category, with rocks ranging from Pennsylvanian to Jurassic, but we -would have to give top billing to the Permian Cedar Mesa Sandstone -Member of the Cutler Formation, from which The Needles, The Grabens, and -most of the arches were sculptured; the Triassic Wingate Sandstone and -the Triassic(?) Kayenta Formation get second billing for their roles in -forming and preserving Island in the Sky and other high mesas. - -Now let us consider other areas with only one or few players in the -cast, beginning at the bottom of the time spiral. Black Canyon of the -Gunnison N.M., cut entirely in rocks of early Precambrian age with only -a veneer of much younger rocks, obviously has but one star in its cast. -Colorado N.M. contains rocks ranging from Precambrian to -Cretaceous--equal to Dinosaur in this respect, but Colorado is unique in -that all the rocks of the long Paleozoic Era and some others are missing -from the cast; of those that remain, the Triassic Wingate and the -Triassic(?) Kayenta are the stars, with strong support from the Jurassic -Entrada Sandstone. - -All the bridges in Natural Bridges N.M. were carved from the Permian -Cedar Mesa Sandstone Member of the Cutler Formation, also one of the -stars in Canyonlands N.P. In Canyon de Chelly (pronounced dee shay) N.M. -and Monument Valley (neither a national park nor a national monument, as -it is owned and administered by the Navajo Tribe), the De Chelly -Sandstone Member of the Cutler Formation--a Permian member younger than -the Cedar Mesa--plays the starring role. - -Wupatki N.M. near Flagstaff, Ariz., stars the Triassic Moenkopi -Formation. Petrified Forest N.P. (which now includes part of the Painted -Desert) has but one star--the Triassic Chinle Formation, in which are -found many petrified logs and stumps of ancient trees. The -Triassic-Jurassic Glen Canyon Group (fig. 19), which includes the -Triassic Wingate Sandstone, the Triassic(?) Kayenta Formation, and the -Triassic(?)-Jurassic Navajo Sandstone, receives top billing in recently -enlarged Capitol Reef N.P., but the Triassic Moenkopi and Chinle -Formations enjoy supporting roles. - -The Triassic(?)-Jurassic Navajo Sandstone, which has a supporting role -in Arches N.P., is the undisputed star of Zion N.P., Rainbow Bridge -N.M., and Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, despite the fact that -the latter is the type locality of the entire Glen Canyon Group. The -Navajo also forms the impressive reef at the east edge of the beautiful -San Rafael Swell, a dome, or closed anticline, now crossed by Highway -I-70 between Green River and Fremont Junction, Utah. - -As we journey upward in the time spiral (fig. 59), we come to the -Jurassic Entrada Sandstone, which stars in Arches N.P., with help from -the underlying Navajo Sandstone, and a supporting cast of both older and -younger rocks. The Entrada also forms the grotesque erosion forms called -"hoodoos and goblins" in Goblin Valley State Park, north of Hanksville, -Utah. - -Moving ever upward in the spiral, we come to the Cretaceous--the age of -the starring Mesaverde Group, in which the caves of Mesaverde N.P. were -formed, and which now house beautifully preserved ruins once occupied by -the Anasazi, the same ancient people who once dwelt in Arches N.P. and -nearby areas. - -This brings us up to the Tertiary Period, during the early part of which -the pink limestones and shales of the Paleocene and Eocene Wasatch -Formation were laid down in inland basins. Beautifully sculptured -cliffs, pinnacles, and caves of the Wasatch star in Bryce Canyon N.P. -and in nearby Cedar Breaks N.M. This concludes our climb up the time -spiral, except for Quaternary volcanoes and some older volcanic features -at Sunset Crater N.M., near Flagstaff, Ariz. - -Thus, one way or another, many rock units formed during the last couple -of billion years have performed on the stage of the Colorado Plateau -and, hamlike, still lurk in the wings eagerly awaiting your applause to -recall them to the footlights. Don't let them down--visit and enjoy the -national parks and monuments of the Plateau, for they probably are the -greatest collection of scenic wonderlands in the world. - - - - - Additional Reading - - -Many reports covering various aspects of the area have been cited in the -text by author and year, and these plus a few additional ones are listed -in "Selected References." A few works of general or special interest -should be mentioned, however. - -Between 1926 and 1929 the entire area now included in the park was -mapped geologically in classic reports by Dane (1935) and by McKnight -(1940). These men and their field assistants mapped the area by use of -the plane-table and telescopic alidade without benefit of modern -topographic maps or aerial photographs, except for topographic maps of -the narrow stretch along the Colorado River mapped under the direction -of Herron (1917). Only small sections could be reached by automobile, so -nearly all the area was traversed using horses and mules or by hiking. -This work plus mapping done in nearby areas to the south and to the -north (Stokes, 1952) during the uranium boom of the mid-fifties was used -by Williams (1964) in compiling a geologic map of the Moab quadrangle at -a scale of 1:250,000. - -Several early reports on the Colorado River and its potential -utilization contain a wealth of information and many fine photographs, -including two by La Rue (1916, 1925) and one by Follansbee (1929). - -You may be interested in brief accounts of the geology of other national -parks and monuments, or other areas of special interest, such as the -reports on the Uinta Mountains by Hansen (1969), Mount Rainier by -Crandell (1969), Yellowstone National Park by Keefer (1971), and ones by -me on Colorado National Monument (Lohman, 1965) and Canyonlands National -Park (1974). - -For those who wish to learn more about the science of geology, I suggest -the textbook by Gilluly, Waters, and Woodford (1968). - - - - - Acknowledgments - - -I am greatly indebted to Bates Wilson, former Superintendent, and to -former Assistant Superintendent Joe Carithers, for their splendid -cooperation in supplying data and information; to Chuck Budge, former -Chief Ranger; Dave May, Assistant Chief of Interpretation and Resource -Management; Joe Miller, former Maintenance Engineer; Bob Kerr, new -Superintendent; Maxine Newell, Park Historian and member of the staff at -Arches National Park; Jerry Banta, former Park Ranger at Arches; and -Carl Mikesell, Park Ranger at Arches, for their many favors. - -I am grateful to several colleagues and friends for the loan of -photographs, for geologic help and data, and for reviewing this report. -I am also deeply grateful to my wife, Ruth, for accompanying me on all -the fieldwork and for her help and encouragement. - - - - - Selected References - - - Abbey, Edward, 1971, Desert solitaire, a season in the wilderness: New - York, Ballantine Books, 303 p. - Baker, A. A., 1933, Geology and oil possibilities of the Moab - district, Grand and San Juan Counties, Utah: U.S. Geol. Survey - Bull. 841, 95 p. - Baker, Pearl, 1971, The Wild Bunch at Robbers Roost: New York, - Aberlard-Schuman, 224 p. - Beckwith, Frank, 1934, A group of petroglyphs near Moab, Utah: Santa - Fe, N. Mex., El Palacio, v. 36, p. 177-178. - Breed, Jack, 1947, Utah's arches of stone: Natl. Geog. Mag., p. - 173-192, August. - Case, J. E., and Joesting, H. R., 1972, Regional geophysical - investigations in the central Colorado Plateau: U.S. Geol. - Survey Prof. Paper 736, 34 p. - Cater, F. W., 1970, Geology of the salt anticline region in - southwestern Colorado: U.S. Geol. Survey Prof. Paper 637, 80 - p. - ---- 1972, Salt anticlines within the Paradox Basin, _in_ Geologic - atlas of the Rocky Mountain region, United States of America: - Denver, Colo., Rocky Mtn. Assoc. of Geologists, p. 137, 138, - fig. 4. - Cleland, H. F., 1910, North American natural bridges, with a - discussion of their origins: Geol. Soc. America Bull., v. 21, - p. 313-338. - Crandell, D. R., 1969, The geologic story of Mt. Rainier: U.S. Geol. - Survey Bull. 1292, 43 p. - Dane, C. H., 1935, Geology of the Salt Valley anticline and adjacent - areas, Grand County, Utah: U.S. Geol. Survey Bull. 863, 184 p. - Dellenbaugh, F. S., 1902, The romance of the Colorado River: New York, - G. P. Putnam's Sons, 399 p. [reprinted 1962 by Rio Grande - Press, Chicago, Ill.] - Everhart, W. C., 1972, The National Park Service, Praeger Library of - U.S. Government Departments and Agencies No. 13: New York, - Praeger Publishers, p. i-xii, 1-276. - Follansbee, Robert, 1929, Upper Colorado River and its utilization: - U.S. Geol. Survey Water-Supply Paper 617, 394 p. - Gilluly, James, Waters, A. C., and Woodford, A. O., 1968, Principles - of geology [3d ed.]: San Francisco, W. R. Freeman & Co., 685 - p. - Hansen, W. R., 1969, The geologic story of the Uinta Mountains [with - graphics by John R. Stacy]: U.S. Geol. Survey Bull. 1291, 144 - p. - Herron, W. R., 1917, Profile surveys in the Colorado River Basin in - Wyoming, Utah, Colorado, and New Mexico: U.S. Geol. Survey - Water-Supply Paper 396, 6 p., 43 pls. - Hite, R. J., 1972, Pennsylvanian rocks, _in_ Geologic atlas of the - Rocky Mountain region, United States of America: Denver, - Colo., Rocky Mtn. Assoc. of Geologists, p. 133-137. - Hite, R. J., and Lohman, S. W., 1973, Geologic appraisal of Paradox - basin salt deposits for waste emplacement: U.S. Geol. Survey - open-file report, 75 p. - Hunt, Alice, 1956, Archeology of southeastern Utah, _in_ Geology and - economic deposits of east-central Utah: Salt Lake City, - Intermountain Assoc. of Petroleum Geologists, 7th Ann. Field - Conf., p. 13-18. - Hunt, C. B., 1956, Cenozoic geology of the Colorado Plateau: U.S. - Geol. Survey Prof. Paper 279, 99 p. - ---- 1969, Geologic history of the Colorado River, _in_ The Colorado - River region and John Wesley Powell: U.S. Geol. Survey Prof. - Paper 669, p. I-IV, 59-130. - Jennings, J. D., 1970, Canyonlands-Aborigines: Naturalist, v. 21, - Summer, Special Issue no. 2, p. 10-15. - Joesting, H. R., Case, J. E., and Plouff, Donald, 1966, Regional - geophysical investigations of the Moab-Needles area, Utah: - U.S. Geol. Survey Prof. Paper 516-C, 21 p. - Keefer, W. R., 1971, The geologic story of Yellowstone National Park, - illustrated by John R. Stacy: U.S. Geol. Survey Bull. 1347, 92 - p. [1972]. - Lansford, Henry, 1972, Boatman in the desert, a passenger-carrying - sternwheeler in canyon country: "Empire" [magazine of the - Denver Post], Nov. 5, p. 18, 19. - La Rue, E. C., 1916, Colorado River and its utilization: U.S. Geol. - Survey Water-Supply Paper 395, 231 p. - ---- 1925, Water power and flood control of Colorado River below Green - River, Utah, with a foreword by Hubert Work, Secretary of the - Interior, p. 1-100. [Appendix A, A report on water supply, by - E. C. La Rue and G. F. Holbrook, p. 101-123; and Appendix B, A - geologic report on the inner gorge of the Grand Canyon of - Colorado River, by R. C. Moore, p. 125-171]: U.S. Geol. Survey - Water-Supply Paper 556, 176 p. - Lohman, S. W., 1965, The geologic story of Colorado National Monument - [with graphics by John R. Stacy]: Fruita, Colo., Colorado and - Black Canyon Natural History Assoc., 56 p. - ---- 1974, The geologic story of Canyonlands National Park, with - graphics by John R. Stacy: U.S. Geol. Survey Bull. 1327, 126 - p. - McKnight, E. T., 1940, Geology of area between Green and Colorado - Rivers, Grand and San Juan Counties, Utah: U.S. Geol. Survey - Bull. 908, 147 p. - Ouellette, C. M., 1958, Over the top of Landscape Arch: Desert Mag., - p. 13-16, March. - Pierson, Lloyd, 1960, Arches National Monument, _in_ Geology of the - Paradox basin fold and fault belt: Durango, Colo., Four - Corners Geol. Soc. Guidebook, 3d Ann. Field Conf., p. 17-21. - Schaafsma, Polly, 1971, Rock art of Utah: Cambridge, Mass., Harvard - Univ., Papers of the Peabody Museum of Archaeology and - Ethnology, v. 65, 169 p. - Stacy, J. R., 1962, Shortcut method for the preparation of - shaded-relief illustrations, _in_ Short papers in geology, - hydrology, and topography 1962: U.S. Geol. Survey Prof. Paper - 450-D, p. D164-D165. - Stokes, W. L., 1952, Uranium-vanadium deposits of the Thompsons area, - Grand County, Utah, with emphasis on the origin of carnotite - ores: Utah Geol. and Mineralogical Survey Bull. 46, 51 p., - December. - ---- 1970, Canyonlands--Geology: Naturalist, v. 21, Summer, Special - Issue no. 2, p. 3-9. - Walters, H. H., 1956, Pacific Northwest Pipeline--The scenic inch, - _in_ Geology and economic deposits of east-central Utah: Salt - Lake City, Intermountain Assoc. of Petroleum Geologists, p. - 169-170. - Williams, P. L., 1964, Geology, structure, and uranium deposits of the - Moab quadrangle, Colorado and Utah: U.S. Geol. Survey Misc. - Geol. Inv. Map I-360. - Wilson, B. E., 1956, Arches National Monument, _in_ Geology and - economic deposits of east-central Utah: Salt Lake City, - Intermountain Assoc. of Petroleum Geologists, 7th Ann. Field - Conf., p. 50-51. - Wright, J. C., Shawe, D. R., and Lohman, S. W., 1962, Definition of - members of the Jurassic Entrada Sandstone in east-central Utah - and west-central Colorado: Bull. Am. Assoc. Petroleum - Geologists, v. 46, no. 11, p. 2057-2070. - - - [Illustration: Petroglyph figure] - - - - -Footnotes - - -[1]Mrs. Tanner, of Phoenix, Ariz., is the author of an earlier history - of Moab (her hometown). She has completed a revision entitled, "The - Far Country--A Regional History of Moab and La Sal, Utah," which - will be serialized in the Moab Times-Independent, after which it - will be published. - -[2]For the benefit of visitors from countries in which the metric system - is used, the following conversion factors may be helpful: 1 inch = - 2.54 centimeters, 1 foot = 0.305 meter, 1 mile = 1.609 kilometers, 1 - U.S. gallon = 0.00379 cubic meter. - -[3]Barrier Creek flows through Horseshoe Canyon in the detached unit of - Canyonlands National Park. The canyon walls are adorned by striking - pictographs (Lohman, 1974, fig. 2). "Barrier Canyon style" is named - after the pictographs found in Horseshoe Canyon. - -[4]Plastic-relief maps are no longer available from the U.S. Army Map - Service but may be obtained from the T. N. Hubbard Scientific Co., - Box 105, Northbrook, Ill. 60062. A topographic map at a scale of - 1:250,000 of the Moab quadrangle and similar maps at a scale of - 1:62,500 for the Thompson, Cisco, Moab, and Castle Valley - quadrangles are available from the U.S. Geological Survey, Denver - Distribution Section, Federal Center, Denver, Colo. 80225, from the - Canyonlands Natural History Association at Moab, and from privately - owned shops where maps are sold. Most of the park is covered by the - Thompson and Moab quadrangles. The southern part of the park is - shown also on the Moab 4 NW, Moab 4 NE, and Mt. Waas 3 NW - quadrangles at a scale of 1:24,000. A special topographic map of - Arches National Park at a scale of 1:50,000 is in preparation by the - U.S. Geological Survey. These maps also may be obtained from the - above-listed sources. - -[5]This is numbered stop 1 in the booklet referred to earlier "The Guide - to an Auto Tour of Arches National Park," and corresponds to the - numeral one on a small sign at the roadside parking place. Some of - the other numbers are given in the pages that follow. - - - - - Index - - - [Italic page numbers indicate major references] - - - A - Page - Abajo Mountains 101 - artifacts 9 - Abbey, Edward 3 - Aborigines, occupation of area 9 - Acknowledgments _105_ - Anasazi people, petroglyphs 10 - Anasazi ruins 9, 103 - Ancestral Colorado River 33 - Anomalies, gravity, Salt Valley 32 - Anticlines, salt 31 - Arches, broken remains 44 - examples _46_ - former abutments 68 - horizontal 44 - how they are formed 42 - natural, defined _40_ - number in the park 40, _41_ - origin and development 37 - pothole 44 - vertical 42, 44 - Artifacts, La Sal and Abajo Mountains 9 - Aspinall, Wayne, Representative 8 - - - B - "Baby Arch" 46, 63, 83 - Balanced Rock 69, 70, 74 - Banta, Jerry 105 - Bar-DX Ranch 12, 13, 14 - "Barrier Canyon style" 10 - Bedding, wavy, Dewey Bridge Member 46 - Beeson, Stib 13 - Beginning of a monument _1_ - Bending of rocks _24_ - Bennett, Wallace F., Senator 8 - Beroni, Pete 14, 15 - Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Monument 102 - Book Cliffs 100 - Breaking of rocks _24_ - Bridge, natural, defined _40_ - Broken Arch 46, 79 - Brown-Stanton expedition, exploration 15 - Bryce Canyon National Park 103 - Budge, Chuck 105 - - - C - Cache Valley 56, 73, 77 - Cache Valley anticline 25, 32, 34, 55, 100, 101 - Cache Valley graben 34, 100 - Campground 86 - water supply 87 - Cane Creek anticline 24 - Canyon de Chelly National Monument 102 - _Canyon King_ 8 - Canyon Lands Section, Colorado Plateau 9, 22 - Canyonlands National Park 3, 9, 15, 102 - Canyonlands Natural History Association 8 - Capitol Reef National Park 103 - Carithers, Joe 105 - Carmel Formation 100 - Cassidy, Butch 12 - Caves, Entrada Sandstone 9 - Cedar Breaks National Monument 103 - Cedar Mesa Sandstone Member, Cutler Formation 22, 102 - Chinle Formation 32, 100, 102, 103 - "Cisco Cutoff" 16 - Civilian Conservation Corps 2 - Cliff dwellers 9 - Climate, desert 35, 51 - wetter, different landscape produced 37 - Collapse, salt anticlines 33, 34 - Color photographs, equipment used 8 - Colorado National Monument 102 - Colorado Plateau, geologic formations included 101 - rock formations 103, 104 - subdivisions 18 - uranium-vanadium mining 14 - Colorado Plateaus Province 18 - Colorado River, course established 101 - nighttime illuminated float trip 16, 52 - Colorado River canyon 35, 51, _52_ - Cores, salt 100 - Corral mine 15 - Courthouse syncline 25, 30, 31, 32, 52, 63, 68, 100 - Courthouse Towers area 25, _63_ - number of arches 41 - Courthouse Wash 2, 3, 18, 35, 63 - Cove Arch 70 - Cove of Caves 70 - Crossbedding, Navajo Sandstone 63, 66, 70 - Cutler Formation 32, 102 - Cedar Mesa Sandstone Member 22 - White Rim Sandstone Member 22 - - - D - Dark Angel 92 - De Chelly Sandstone Member, Cutler Formation 102 - Dead Horse Point 33 - Dedication of the park 8 - Delicate Arch 16, 25, 74, 75, 77 - Delicate Arch area, number of arches 41 - Density, average, Paradox Member 32 - Deposition of rock materials, environments _20_ - Desert varnish 10 - Development of the arches _37_ - Devils Garden 2, 5, 25, 79, _83_, 86 - fins 42 - number of arches 41 - trail 88, 92 - Dewey Bridge 52 - Dewey Bridge Member 46, 63 - Entrada Sandstone, composition 41 - "hoodoos and goblins" 66 - park road cutting 57 - The Windows section 71 - vertical arches 44 - "Dewey Road" 16 - Diapir 83 - Differential erosion 42 - Dinosaur National Monument 101, 102 - Dissimilarity of Arches vs. Canyonlands 23, 24 - Double Arch 2, 46, 72 - Double O Arch 90, 92, 98 - Drainage, Arches National Park 18 - Dry Mesa 5, 56 - - - E - Eagle Park 25, 98 - number of arches 41 - Early dwellers _9_ - Earthquake, rock offset along bedding plane 63 - Egyptian queen, arch resembling 63 - Eisenhower, Dwight D., Mission 66 4 - Elephant Butte 72 - Elephant Butte folds 68 - Elizondo, Emmett 13 - Entrada Sandstone 23, 74, 102, 103 - arches, modes of origin 42 - caves 9 - cut by normal fault 57 - Moab Member 24 - no water found 87 - Environments of deposition _20_ - Erosion 99 - Colorado Plateau _33_ - Evaporation basins 99 - Evaporites 30 - Eye of The Whale 69 - - - F - Facies changes 22 - "Father of the monument," J. W. Williams 1, 4 - Faults, Cache Valley anticline 34 - Salt Valley anticline 34 - Fiery Furnace 25, 42, 73, _79_, 83 - number of arches 41 - Fins 63, 79 - Float trip, nighttime illuminated, down Colorado River 52 - Folds _24_, 30, 100 - Four-wheel-drive vehicles 69 - Fractures _24_ - Fremont people, occupation of area 9 - pictographs 10 - Frost, prying action 42 - - - G - Garden of Eden 50, 69, 70 - Gas exploration, deep tests 15, 99 - Geographic setting _18_ - Geologic age of rocks in park _98_ - Geologic events forming the Colorado Plateau _98_ - Geologic history, summary _98_ - Geologic Time Spiral 101, 103 - Geology, at the park entrance 57 - Glen Canyon Group 52, 102, 103 - Glen Canyon National Recreation Area 101, 103 - Goblin Valley State Park 66, 103 - Gould, Lawrence M. 1 - Goulding, Harry, first person to drive into The Windows section 2, 69 - Grabens 34 - Grand Canyon National Park and National Monument 102 - Gravity anomalies, Salt Valley 32 - Green River 103 - Ground water 41 - "Guide to an Auto Tour of Arches National Park," (The) 5, 50, 51, 72 - Gulf of California 33 - - - H - Hastier, (Mrs.) Hazel Wolfe 13 - Headquarters area _57_ - Henry Mountains 101 - Herdina Park 25, 69 - number of arches 41 - Hermosa Formation, Paradox Member 23, 25, 29, 30, 32 - History, early _9_ - geologic, summary _98_ - "Hoodoos and goblins" 66, 103 - Hoover, Herbert, proclamation 1 - Horizontal arches 44 - Horseshoe Canyon, pictographs 10 - Horseshoe Canyon Detached Unit of Canyonlands 23 - Humid regions, subdued rounded landforms 37 - - - I - Igneous rocks 22, 99 - "Indian-Head Arch" 98 - Iron in the rocks 23 - Island in the Sky 102 - - - J - Jeep trail 69, 70 - Johnson, Lyndon B., proclamation 2 - Joints _24_, 34, 100 - - - K - Kayenta Formation 35, 52, 102, 103 - Kerr, Bob 105 - Klondike Bluffs 25, 69, _82_, 83 - number of arches 41 - - - L - La Sal Mountains 22, 63, 77, 101 - artifacts 9 - Lake Mead 33 - Lake Powell 33 - Land forms, formation in the park 33 - Landscape Arch 16, 77, 88 - second known ascent 90 - Larson, Tommy 13 - Lloyd, Sherman P., Representative 8 - Lohman, (Mrs.) Ruth 105 - - - M - Mahan, Russel L. 2 - Mancos Shale 32, 100 - Maxwell, Ross A., investigation of caves 9, 10 - May, David 40, 105 - Melich, Mitchell, Solicitor General 8 - Mesaverde Group 32, 103 - Mesaverde National Park 103 - Metamorphic rocks 22, 99 - Metric unit conversion factors _2_ - Mikesell, Carl 105 - Miller, Joe 105 - Mission 66, presidential and congressional support 4 - Mississippi River sternwheeler replica 8 - Moab, uranium-vanadium mill 14 - Moab bridge 52 - Moab Canyon 15, 18 - Moab fault 26, 57 - Moab Lions Club 1, 8 - "Moab Mail Road" 16 - Moab Member, Entrada Sandstone 24, 35 - Entrada Sandstone, Broken Arch 46 - composition 41 - "Moab panel" 10 - Moab-Spanish Valley anticline 26 - Moab Valley 57 - Moab Valley-Seven Mile anticline 100, 101 - Moenkopi Formation 32, 102, 103 - Monoliths 63 - Monument, beginning _1_ - Monument Valley 101, 102 - Morrison Formation 32, 101 - Morton, Rogers C. B., Secretary of the Interior 8 - Moss, Frank E., Senator 8 - Moss Back Member, Chinle Formation 15 - - - N - National Park Service 8, 12, 40, 75, 90 - Natural Bridges National Monument 3, 37, 40, 102 - Navajo Arch 90 - Navajo Sandstone 24, 35, 52, 103 - canyon floor 63 - crossbedding 63, 66, 70 - park road cutting 57 - water supply 57, 87 - Navajo Tribe 102 - Needles section, The, Canyonlands National Park 16, 102 - Newell, (Mrs.) Maxine 12, 105 - Nixon, Richard M., Congressional Bill 5 - North Window 40, 68, 71 - - - O - Oil exploration 15 - Cane Creek anticline 24 - deep tests 99 - Origin of the arches _37_ - - - P - Pacific Northwest Pipeline 15 - Painted Desert 102 - Panorama Point 73 - Parade of Elephants 72 - Paradox basin 23 - Paradox Member, Hermosa Formation 23, 25, 29, 30, 82, 99 - Hermosa Formation, average density 32 - upward intrusion 34 - Park, a trip through _52_ - dedication 8 - how to see _50_ - improvements 4 - Park Avenue, trail 63 - Park Service. _See_ National Park Service. - Partition Arch 90 - Petrified dunes 63, 66 - Petrified Forest National Park 102 - Petroglyphs, Ute 10, 75 - Pictographs, Fremont people 10 - Pine Tree Arch 90 - Piņon pines 86 - Pipeline scars, Pacific Northwest Pipeline 15 - Plateau, uplift and erosion _33_ - Potash occurrence 15 - Pothole Arch 50, 73 - Pothole arches 44 - Powell, John Wesley, Canyonlands National Park 15 - Professor Valley 56 - - - R - Rainbow Bridge National Monument 103 - Rainwater 41, 42 - Rampton, Calvin L., Utah Governor 8 - Reading, additional _104_ - References, selected _105_ - Relief map, shaded, Arches National Park, described 18, 19 - Ribbon Arch 72 - Richardson Amphitheater 56 - Richardson, Professor 56 - Rico Formation 23 - Rison, (Mrs.) Esther Stanley 13 - Rock formations, sculptured by erosion 35 - Rock openings, natural, types 37 - Rock types in the park 35 - Roosevelt, Franklin D., proclamation 2 - Rumel, Hal, photographer 77 - "Run, Cougar, Run" 16, 56, 75 - - - S - Sagers Wash syncline 86 - Salt, occurrence 15 - properties critical to formation of salt anticlines 30 - Salt anticlines 30, 31, 100 - collapse 33, 34 - Salt-bearing rock 83 - Salt rolls 31 - Salt Valley 2, 68, 73, 77, _82_, 83, 92 - gravity anomalies 32 - Salt Valley anticline 25, 30, 31, 32, 73, 100, 101 - collapse 34 - fins 42 - Salt Valley Wash 3, 74, 82, 83 - Salt Wash 35, 55 - Anasazi ruins 9 - drainage 18 - grabens 34 - sandstone caves near 10 - Salt Wash Sandstone Member, Morrison Formation 14 - San Juan Basin, natural gas 15 - San Rafael Swell 101, 103 - Sand Dune Arch 79 - Sandstone fins 41, 42 - Schaafsma, Polly, quoted 10, 12 - Scenic drive, Moab to Cisco 16 - "Scenic Inch," Pacific Northwest Pipeline 15 - Sedimentary rocks 20 - modes of deposition 99 - Seven Mile-Moab Valley anticline 26, 32, 57 - Sevenmile Canyon 15 - Sheep Rock 63 - Skyline Arch 83 - Slick Rock Member, Entrada Sandstone 34 - Entrada Sandstone, composition 41 - high fins and pinnacles 63, 79, 86 - hiking trail between fins 90 - park road cutting 57 - salmon 77 - The Windows section 71 - Tunnel Arch 46 - vertical arches 42, 44 - Slumping of sediments, irregular 50 - Snow 41, 51 - Sonic booms, dangers posed to arches 16, 17 - South Window 40, 68, 71 - Spanish explorers 12 - introduction of horses to this country 10 - Squaw Flat Campground 16 - Stanley, Esther 13 - (Mrs.) Flora 13 - Volna 13 - Stevens, Dale J. 40, 41, 63, 90, 98 - Strata, lateral changes across the park 22 - Sundance Kid 12 - Sunset Crater National Monument 103 - Supersonic flights banned, Moab-Times Independent 17 - Suspension bridge, Colorado River 16 - - - T - Tanner, (Mrs.) Faun McConkie 1 - Taylor, L. L. (Bish) 1 - Temperatures 51 - "The Guide to an Auto Tour of Arches National Park" 5, 50, 51, 72 - The Needles section, Canyonlands National Park 16, 102 - The Windows section 25, 41, 46, 51, 66, _68_, 69, 70 - Three Gossips 63 - Three Penguins 57 - Tower Arch 83 - Tunnel Arch 40, 46, 90 - Turnbow, Mary 1 - Turnbow cabin 13 - Turret Arch 68, 71 - - - U - Uncompahgre Highland 23, 99, 100 - Uncompahgre Plateau 23, 99 - Uplift, Colorado Plateau _33_ - Upper Devils Garden 98 - number of arches 41 - Uranium mines 14 - Ute petroglyphs 10, 75 - - - V - Vanadium mines 14 - Vegetation 37 - Vertical arches 42, 44 - Visitor Center 50, 51, 57, 86 - Volz, J. Leonard 8 - - - W - Walker, Lester 13 - Wall Arch 90 - Walt Disney crew, "Run, Cougar, Run" 75 - Wasatch Formation 32 - Water supply, Navajo Sandstone 57 - to the campground 87 - White Rim Sandstone Member, Cutler Formation 22 - Wild Bunch, The 12 - Williams, J. W. 1, 4 - Wilson, Bates 1, 3, 105 - Wilson, (Mrs.) Bates 3 - Windows, distinguished from arches _40_ - Windows section, The 25, 46, 51, 66, _68_, 69, 70 - number of arches 41 - Wingate Sandstone 35, 87, 102, 103 - Wirth, Conrad L. 4 - Wolfe cabin 1, 3, 12, 13, 14 - Wolfe, Fred 12, 13 - Wolfe, John Wesley 12, 13 - Wolfe's Bar-DX Ranch 9, 10, 14, 74, 75 - Wupatki National Monument 102 - - - Y - Yellow Cat area (Thompson's area) 14 - Yellow Cat Flat 86 - Yellow Cat mining district 83 - - - Z - Zion National Park 103 - - *U.S. GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE: 1975--679-138 - - [Illustration: U. S. Department of the Interior, March 3, 1849] - - - - -Transcriber's Notes - - ---Retained publication information from the printed edition: this eBook - is public-domain in the country of publication. - ---Corrected a few palpable typos. - ---Included a transcription of the text within some images. - ---In the text versions only, text in italics is delimited by - _underscores_. - ---The HTML version contains relative hyperlinks to a companion volume on - Canyonlands National Park, Gutenberg eBook #51048. - ---A third book in the series, on Colorado National Monument, was revised - after this book was printed. - - - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Geologic Story of Arches National -Park, by S. W. 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