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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d7b82bc --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,4 @@ +*.txt text eol=lf +*.htm text eol=lf +*.html text eol=lf +*.md text eol=lf diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..cf6aaf8 --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #51116 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/51116) diff --git a/old/51116-0.txt b/old/51116-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index e0b575c..0000000 --- a/old/51116-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3508 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Geologic Story of Arches National Park, by -S. W. Lohman - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: The Geologic Story of Arches National Park - Geological Survey Bulletin 1393 - -Author: S. W. Lohman - -Illustrator: John R. Stacy - -Release Date: February 3, 2016 [EBook #51116] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK GEOLOGIC STORY--ARCHES NATIONAL PARK *** - - - - -Produced by Stephen Hutcheson, Dave Morgan and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net - - - - - - - [Illustration: Geology of Arches National Park] - - [Illustration: BALANCED ROCK, guarding The Windows section of Arches - National Park. Rock is Slick Rock Member of Entrada Sandstone - resting upon crinkly bedded Dewey Bridge Member of the Entrada. - White rock in foreground is Navajo Sandstone. La Sal Mountains on - right skyline. (Frontispiece)] - - [Illustration: Graphic Title Page] - - - - - _The Geologic Story of_ - Arches - NATIONAL PARK - - - By S. W. Lohman - Graphics by - John R. Stacy - - GEOLOGICAL SURVEY BULLETIN 1393 - - - UNITED STATES DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR - ROGERS C. B. MORTON, _Secretary_ - - GEOLOGICAL SURVEY - V. E. McKelvey, _Director_ - - [Illustration: Department of the Interior · March 3, 1949] - - U.S. GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE: 1975 - - - Library of Congress Cataloging in Publication Data - Lohman, Stanley William, 1907- - The geologic story of Arches National Park. - (Geological Survey Bulletin 1393) - Bibliography: p. - Includes index. - Supt. of Docs. no.: I 19.3:1393 - 1. Geology—Utah—Arches National Park—Guide-books. - 2. Arches National Park, Utah—Guide-books. - I. Title. II. Series: United States Geological Survey - Bulletin 1393. - QE75.B9 No. 1393 [QE170.A7] 557.3′08s [557.92′58] - 74-23324 - - - For sale by the Superintendent of Documents, U. S. Government Printing - Office - Washington, D. C. 20402 - Stock Number 024-001-02598-1 - - - - - Contents - - - Page - Beginning of a monument 1 - Graduation to a park 5 - Early history 9 - Prehistoric people 9 - Late arrivals 12 - Geographic setting 18 - Deposition of the rock materials 20 - Bending and breaking of the rocks 24 - Uplift and erosion of the Plateau 33 - Origin and development of the arches 37 - Examples of arches 46 - How to see the park 50 - A trip through the park 52 - Colorado River canyon 52 - Headquarters area 57 - Courthouse Towers area 63 - The Windows section 68 - Delicate Arch area 74 - Fiery Furnace 79 - Salt Valley and Klondike Bluffs 82 - Devils Garden 83 - Summary of geologic history 98 - Additional reading 104 - Acknowledgments 105 - Selected references 105 - Index 109 - - - - - Figures - - - Page - Frontispiece. Balanced Rock. - 1. Arches National Park 6 - 2. Rock art in Arches National Park 11 - 3. Wolfe’s Bar-DX Ranch 14 - 4. Rock column of Arches National Park 21 - 5. Common types of rock folds 25 - 6. Common types of rock faults 26 - 7. Paradox basin 27 - 8. Geologic section across northwest end of Arches National Park 28 - 9. Index map of northwestern part of Arches National Park 28 - 10. Gravity anomalies over Salt Valley 31 - 11. Tilted block of rocks in Cache Valley graben 34 - 12. Jointed northeast flank of Salt Valley anticline 36 - 13. Index map 38 - 14. Tunnel Arch 43 - 15. “Baby Arch” 44 - 16. Broken Arch 45 - 17. Double Arch 47 - 18. Pothole Arch 48 - 19. Glen Canyon Group 53 - 20. Navajo Sandstone cliffs 54 - 21. Mouth of Salt Wash 55 - 22. Southeast end of faulted Cache Valley anticline 56 - 23. Faulted Seven Mile-Moab Valley anticline 58 - 24. Three Penguins 59 - 25. Moab Valley 60 - 26. Faulted wall of Entrada Sandstone 61 - 27. Park Avenue 62 - 28. Balanced rocks on south wall of Park Avenue 64 - 29. Courthouse Towers 65 - 30. The Three Gossips 66 - 31. Sheep Rock 66 - 32. Petrified sand dunes 67 - 33. “Hoodoos and goblins” 68 - 34. Eye of The Whale 69 - 35. Intricate crossbeds in Navajo Sandstone 70 - 36. Cove Arch and Cove of Caves 71 - 37. North Window 72 - 38. Looking southwestward through North Window 73 - 39. South Window 74 - 40. Turret Arch 75 - 41. Parade of Elephants 76 - 42. Suspension foot bridge across Salt Wash 78 - 43. Delicate Arch 78 - 44. Fiery Furnace 80 - 45. Trail to Sand Dune Arch 81 - 46. Sand Dune Arch 82 - 47. Tower Arch 84 - 48. Skyline Arch 85 - 49. Campground in Devils Garden 86 - 50. View north from campground 87 - 51. Southeastern part of Devils Garden trail 88 - 52. Pine Tree Arch 89 - 53. Landscape Arch 91 - 54. Navajo Arch 92 - 55. Partition Arch 93 - 56. Double O Arch 93 - 57. Dark Angel 94 - 58. “Indian-Head Arch” 95 - 59. Geologic time spiral 96 - - [Illustration: Petroglyph figure] - - - - -Beginning of a Monument - - -According to former Superintendent Bates Wilson (1956), Prof. Lawrence -M. Gould, of the University of Michigan, was the first to recognize the -geologic and scenic values of the Arches area in eastern Utah and to -urge its creation as a national monument. Mrs. Faun McConkie Tanner[1] -told me that Professor Gould, who had done a thesis problem in the -nearby La Sal Mountains, was first taken through the area by Marv -Turnbow, third owner of Wolfe cabin. (See p. 12.) When Professor Gould -went into ecstasy over the beautiful scenery, Turnbow replied, “I didn’t -know there was anything unusual about it.” - -Dr. J. W. Williams, generally regarded as father of the monument, and L. -L. (Bish) Taylor, of the Moab Times-Independent, were the local leaders -in following up on Gould’s suggestion and, with the help of the Moab -Lions Club, their efforts finally succeeded on April 12, 1929, when -President Herbert Hoover proclaimed Arches National Monument, then -comprising only 7 square miles.[2] It was enlarged to about 53 square -miles by President Franklin D. Roosevelt’s Proclamation of November 25, -1938, and remained at nearly that size, with some boundary adjustments -on July 22, 1960, until it was enlarged to about 130 square miles by -President Lyndon B. Johnson’s Proclamation of January 20, 1969. - -According to Breed (1947), Harry Goulding, of Monument Valley, in a -specially equipped car, traversed the rugged sand and rocks of the -Arches region in the fall of 1936 and, thus, became the first person to -drive a car into The Windows section of Arches National Monument. Soon -after, a bulldozer followed Harry’s tracks and made a passable trail. - -When my family and I visited the monument in 1946, the entrance was -about 12 miles northwest of Moab on U.S. Highway 163 (then U.S. 160), -where Goulding’s old tire tracks led eastward past a small sign reading -“Arches National Monument 8 miles.” This primitive road crossed the -sandy, normally dry Courthouse Wash and ended in what is now called The -Windows section. At that time there was no water or ranger station, nor -were there any picnic tables or other improvements within the monument -proper, and the custodian was housed in an old barracks of the Civilian -Conservation Corps near what is now the entrance, 5 miles northwest of -Moab. - -Former Custodian Russell L. Mahan reported (oral commun., May 1973) that -soon after our initial visit in 1946 a 500-gallon tank was installed -near Double Arch in The Windows section and connected to a drinking -fountain and that two picnic tables and a pit toilet were added. At that -time the only access to Salt Valley and what is now called Devils Garden -was a primitive dirt road which, according to Breed (1947, p. 175), left -old U.S. Highway 160 (now U.S. 163) 24 miles northwest of Moab, went 22 -miles east, then followed Salt Valley Wash down to Wolfe cabin (fig. 1). - -According to Abbey (1971), who served as a seasonal ranger beginning -about 1958, a sign had by then been erected at the crossing of -Courthouse Wash which read: - - WARNING: QUICKSAND - DO NOT CROSS WASH - WHEN WATER IS RUNNING - -The ranger station, his home for 6 months of the year, was what Abbey -described as “a little tin housetrailer.” Nearby was an information -display under a “lean-to shelter.” He had propane fuel for heat, -cooking, and refrigeration, and a small gasoline-engine-driven generator -for lights at night. His water came from the 500-gallon tank, which was -filled at intervals from a tank truck. At that time there were three -small dry campgrounds, each with tables, fireplaces, garbage cans, and -pit toilets. By that time an extension of the dirt road led northward to -Devils Garden, and some trails had been built and marked. - -Bates Wilson became Custodian of the monument in 1949 and later became -Superintendent not only of Arches but also of the nearby new Canyonlands -National Park (Lohman, 1974) and the more distant Natural Bridges -National Monument. In the fall of 1969, Bates told me of some of his -early experiences in the undeveloped monument, including the evening -when 22 cars were marooned on the wrong (northeast) side of Courthouse -Wash after a flash flood. Bates and his “lone” ranger brought ropes, -coffee, and what food they could obtain in town after closing time, -threw a line across the swollen stream, had a tourist pull a rope -across, then took turns wading the stream with one hand on the rope and -the other balancing supplies on his shoulder. After a fire had been -built and hot coffee and food passed around, the spirits of the stranded -group rose considerably, except for one irate woman from the East, who -refused to budge from her car. Bates and his helper finally got the last -car out about 1 a.m., after the flood had subsided, and Mrs. Wilson then -supplied lodging and more food and coffee for those who needed it. - -During and for sometime after World War II and the Korean War, lack of -maintenance funds and personnel had prevented improvement of the -facilities in many of our national parks and monuments, particularly in -undeveloped ones like Arches. The day was saved through the wisdom and -foresight of former Park Service Director Conrad L. Wirth, who saw the -need and desirability of putting the whole “want” list into one -attractive, marketable package. In the words of Everhart (1972, p. 36): - - Selection of a name is of course recognized as the most important - decision in any large-scale enterprise, and here Wirth struck pure - gold. In 1966 the Park Service would be celebrating its fiftieth - anniversary. What a God-given target to shoot for! Why not produce a - ten-year program, which would begin in 1956, aimed to bring every park - up to standard by 1966—and call it Mission 66? - -The ensuing well-documented and cost-estimated plan for Mission 66 was -enthusiastically backed by President Dwight D. Eisenhower and approved -and well supported by Congress to the tune of more than $1 billion -during the 10-year period. For Arches, this included a new entrance, -Park Headquarters, Visitor Center, a museum boasting a bust of founder -Dr. Williams, and modern housing for park personnel, all 5 miles -northwest of Moab. By 1958 (Pierson, 1960) a fine new paved road between -Park Headquarters and Balanced Rock (frontispiece) was completed. These -badly needed improvements were followed by the completion of the paved -road all the way to Devils Garden, the building of the modern -campground, picnic facilities, and amphitheater in the Devils Garden, -and the construction of turnouts and marked trails. - - [Illustration: Petroglyph figure] - - - - -Graduation to a Park - - -Arches graduated to a full-fledged national park when President Richard -M. Nixon signed a Congressional Bill on November 16, 1971. The change in -status was accompanied by boundary changes that reduced the area to -about 114 square miles. The loss of most of Dry Mesa, just east of the -present boundary (fig. 1), was offset in part by gains of new land -northwest of Devils Garden. The present (1974) boundaries, roads, -trails, and named features of the park are shown in figure 1. - -The park was virtually completed at graduation time, and so far this -change in status has shown up mainly in new entrance signs, a new 1972 -brochure and map, and a very informative “Guide to an Auto Tour of -Arches National Park,” keyed to numbered signs at parking spaces. About -all that remain to be added are new wayside exhibits, some boundary -fences, and spur roads and trails. - - [Illustration: ARCHES NATIONAL PARK, showing location in Utah, - boundaries, streams, highways and roads, trails, landforms, - principal named features, and the city of Moab. The reader is - referred to figure 7 and to road maps issued by the State or by oil - companies for the locations of other nearby towns and features. - Visitors also may obtain pamphlets, from the entrance station or - from the National Park Service office in Moab, which contain - up-to-date maps of the park and the latest available information on - roads, trails, campsites, and picnic sites. (Fig. 1)] - -Although Arches had officially become a park in November 1971, it was -not formally dedicated until May 15, 1972. The ceremony began by having -the Federal, State, and local dignitaries and other guests totaling 140 -persons board the _Canyon King_, a 93-foot replica of a Mississippi -River sternwheeler (Lansford, 1972; Lohman, 1974, fig. 69), for its -maiden voyage down the Colorado River. After about half an hour, the -heavily laden boat became stuck on a sandbar, and after a 90-minute wait -the passengers were rescued by jet boats. This delayed a luncheon at the -Visitor Center put on by the Moab Lions Club. Following the luncheon, -Park Superintendent Bates Wilson made a brief welcoming address, then -introduced J. Leonard Volz, Director of the Midwest Region of the -National Park Service, who served as master of ceremonies. Speakers -included Utah Governor Calvin L. Rampton, Senator Frank E. Moss, a -representative of Senator Wallace F. Bennett, Representatives Sherman P. -Lloyd of Utah and Wayne Aspinall of Colorado, and Mitchell Melich, -Solicitor General of the Department of Interior, representing Secretary -Rogers C. B. Morton. After the speeches, a commemorative plaque, donated -by the Canyonlands Natural History Association, was unveiled by Senator -Moss and Mr. Melich. - -Most of the color photographs were taken by me on 4- × 5-inch film in a -tripod-mounted press camera, using lenses of several focal lengths, but -a few were taken on 35-mm film, using lenses of various focal lengths. I -am grateful to several friends for the color photographs credited to -them in the figure captions. The black and white photographs were kindly -loaned from the Moab and Arches files of the National Park Service. The -points from which most of the photographs were taken are shown in figure -13. - - [Illustration: Petroglyph figure] - - - - -Early History - - - Prehistoric People - -The Canyon lands in and south of Arches were inhabited by cliff dwellers -centuries before the first visits of the Spaniards and fur trappers. -Projectile points and other artifacts found in the nearby La Sal and -Abajo Mountains indicate occupation by aborigines during the period from -about 3000-2000 B.C. to about A.D. 1 (Hunt, Alice, 1956). The Fremont -people occupied the area around A.D. 850 or 900, and the Pueblo or -Anasazi people from about A.D. 1075 to their departure in the late 12th -century (Jennings, 1970). Most of the evidence for these early -occupations has been found in and south of Canyonlands National Park -(Lohman, 1974), but some traces of these and possibly earlier cultures -have been found also within Arches National Park. - -Ross A. Maxwell (National Park Service, written commun., 1941) -investigated two caves in the Entrada Sandstone in the upper reaches of -Salt Wash that contain Anasazi ruins. He mentioned that perhaps a dozen -or more other caves should be checked for evidence of former occupation -and, also, that he found several ancient campsites littered with flint -chips and broken tools. - -One cave Maxwell explored some 5 miles north of Wolfe Ranch and north of -the park is about 300 feet long and 100 to 150 feet deep. It contains -the remains of one or more ruins of a structure he thought may have -covered much of the floor. The remaining parts of walls now are only two -to four tiers of stones in height, although originally they may have -been more than one story high. Maxwell explored a second cave on the -east side of Salt Wash, about 2 miles north of Wolfe Ranch, which -contains 16 storage cists of adobe. - -The faces of many older sandstone cliffs or ledges are darkened by -desert varnish—a natural pigment of iron and manganese oxides. The -prehistoric inhabitants of the Plateau learned that effective and -enduring designs, called petroglyphs, could be created simply by -chiseling or pecking through the thin dark layer to reveal the buff or -tan sandstone beneath. Most petroglyphs were created by the Anasazi, but -those showing men mounted on horses were done by Ute tribesmen after the -Spaniards brought in horses in the 1500’s. The Fremont people and some -earlier people painted figures on rock faces, called pictographs, and -some of these had pecked outlines. - -The so-called “Moab panel” was described by Beckwith (1934, p. 177) as a -petroglyph, but, as pointed out by Schaafsma (1971, p. 72, 73), it -comprises figures having pecked outlines and painted bodies, which -actually are combinations of petroglyphs and pictographs. This -beautifully preserved group of paintings is shown in the upper -photograph of figure 2. Mrs. Schaafsma goes on to say, concerning the -“Moab panel”: - - The long tapered body, the antenna like headdresses, and the staring - eyes are characteristic features of Barrier Canyon style figures - elsewhere * * *. Of special interest here are the large shields held - by certain figures. A visit to this site indicated that the shields, - although apparently of some antiquity, have been superimposed over - some of the Barrier Canyon figures. Whether or not this was done by - the Barrier Canyon style artists themselves or later comers to the - site is impossible to tell. - -Although definite proof seems lacking, she suggested (written commun., -Nov. 3, 1973) that the “‘Barrier Canyon style’[3] * * * is earlier than -the work in the same region clearly attributable to the Fremont.” Note -the three bullet holes in and near the right-hand shield. A ledge above -the panel that contained petroglyphs during her earlier visit had fallen -to the base of the cliff by the time my wife and I inspected the panel -in September 1973. - - [Illustration: ROCK ART IN ARCHES NATIONAL PARK. A (above), “Moab - panel,” on cliff of Wingate Sandstone above U.S. Highway 163 between - Courthouse Wash and Colorado River, believed to be the work of - “Barrier Canyon” style people. B (below), Petroglyphs on ledge of - sandstone in Morrison Formation on east side of Salt Wash just north - of Wolfe Ranch, believed to have been cut by Ute tribesmen. (Fig. - 2)] - - [Illustration: Fig. 2 B] - -Mrs. Schaafsma believes the petroglyphs in the lower photograph of -figure 2 to be the work of Ute tribesmen, not only because of the -horses, but also because of the stiff-legged appearance of the mountain -sheep. Note the bullet hole above the panel. - - - Late Arrivals - -Later arrivals in and near Arches National Park included first Spanish -explorers, then trappers, cattlemen, cattle rustlers and horse thieves, -followed in the present century by oil drillers, uranium hunters, -jeepsters, and tourists. Butch Cassidy, the Sundance Kid, and other -members of The Wild Bunch are known to have frequented parts of what is -now Canyonlands National Park (Baker, Pearl, 1971), but it is not -certain whether or not any of them traversed what is now Arches National -Park. - -The first settler in what is now Arches National Park was a Civil War -veteran named John Wesley Wolfe, who was discharged from the Union Army -about 3 weeks before the Battle of Bull Run because he suffered from -varicose veins. In 1888 his doctor told him he had to leave Ohio for a -dryer climate or he would not live 6 months, so he took his son Fred -west and settled on a tract of 150 acres along the west bank of Salt -Wash, where his “Wolfe cabin” still stands (figs. 1, 3). From family -letters and newspaper clippings compiled by Mrs. Maxine Newell and other -members of the National Park Service (Maxine Newell, written commun., -1971), we learn what life in the area was like: - - We have started a cattle spread on a desert homestead. We call it the - Bar-DX Ranch. Fred and I live in a little log house on the bank of a - creek that is sometimes dry, sometimes flooded from bank to bank with - roaring muddy water. We are surrounded with rocks—gigantic red rock - formations, massive arches and weird figures, the like of which youve - [sic] never seen. The desert is a hostile, demanding country, hot in - summer, cold in winter. The Bar-DX Ranch is a day’s ride from the - nearest store, out of the range of schools. - -Although John Wolfe had promised his wife and his other children that he -would return home the first fall that his cattle sales netted enough -money, he and Fred stayed on and on, and his wife refused to go west and -join her husband and son. Eighteen years later he sent money from his -pension check to his daughter, Mrs. Flora Stanley, his son-in-law, Ed -Stanley, and his two grandchildren, Esther and Ferol, to join him and -Fred at the ranch. Their train was met at Thompson Springs (now -Thompson), Utah (fig. 7), by John Wolfe for the 30-mile ride to the -ranch by horse and wagon. Sight of the tiny log cabin with only a dirt -floor brought tears to his daughter’s eyes, but her spirits rose -considerably after John Wolfe promised to build a new log cabin with a -wooden floor. But the children were enchanted with this strange country, -with the building of the new cabin, and, especially, with getting to go -rabbit hunting with Grandpa Wolfe. The Stanleys stayed at the ranch -until Esther was 10, then moved to Moab to await the arrival of their -third child, Volna. - -In 1910 John Wolfe sold the Bar-DX Ranch, and the entire family moved to -Kansas. John Wolfe later moved back to Ohio, and died at Etna, Licking -County, on October 22, 1913, at the age of 84, 25 years after his doctor -had warned him to move to a dryer climate or face an early death. - -Wolfe had sold his spread to Tommy Larson, who later sold it to J. Marv -Turnbow and his partners, Lester Walker and Stib Beeson. The old log -cabin gradually came to be known as the “Turnbow cabin,” and this name -appeared on early maps of the area by the U.S. Geological Survey and on -early pamphlets by the National Park Service, partly because Marv -Turnbow served as a camphand in 1927 assisting in the first detailed -geologic mapping of the area (Dane, 1935, p. 4). In 1947 the ranch was -sold to Emmett Elizondo, who later sold it to the Government for -inclusion in what was then the monument. - -From information supplied by Wolfe’s granddaughter, Mrs. Esther Stanley -Rison, and his great-granddaughter, Mrs. Hazel Wolfe Hastler, who -visited the cabin in July 1970, the original name Wolfe cabin, or Wolfe -Ranch, has been restored, and appears on the newer maps and pamphlets. -(See fig. 1.) What remains of Wolfe’s Bar-DX Ranch is shown in figure 3. - - [Illustration: WOLFE’S BAR-DX RANCH, on west bank of Salt Wash at - start of trail to Delicate Arch. Left to right: Corral, wagon, “new” - cabin, and root cellar. “Old” cabin, which formerly was to right of - photograph, was washed away by a flood in 1906. (Fig. 3)] - -Arches National Park is surrounded by active uranium and vanadium mines -and by many test wells for oil, gas, and potash; it is underlain by -extensive salt and potash deposits. Oil and gas are produced a few miles -to the north and east, and potash is being produced about 12 miles to -the south (Lohman, 1974). - -Uranium and vanadium have been mined on the Colorado Plateau since 1898 -(Dane, 1935, p. 176) and in the Yellow Cat area (also called Thompson’s -area), just north of the park (fig. 1), since about 1911 (Stokes, 1952, -p. 7). The deposits in the Yellow Cat area occur in the Salt Wash -Sandstone Member of the Morrison Formation (fig. 4). According to Pete -Beroni (U.S. Atomic Energy Commission, oral commun., August 6, 1973), -some ore is still being produced in the Yellow Cat area, and the -production of vanadium ore will increase as soon as the uranium mill at -Moab is converted to also handle vanadium ore. The Corral and so-called -Shinarump mines along the southwest side of Moab Canyon just north of -Sevenmile Canyon (fig. 1) are still actively producing uranium ore from -the Moss Back Member of the Chinle Formation, according to Mr. Beroni. - -The occurrences of salt and potash in and near the park and the attempts -to find oil and gas nearby are discussed in a recent report (Hite and -Lohman, 1973), and the deposits beneath Moab, Salt, and Cache Valleys -are discussed in later chapters. - -In 1955 and 1956 the Pacific Northwest Pipeline, known also as the -“Scenic Inch,” was constructed by the Pacific Northwest Pipeline Corp. -to transmit natural gas from wells in the San Juan Basin of northwestern -New Mexico for a total of 1,487 miles to the Pacific Northwest, with -additional pickups from gas fields in northeastern Utah, northwestern -Colorado, and southwestern Wyoming (Walters, 1956). This 26-inch -pipeline follows the general route of U.S. Highway 163 from Cortez, -Colo., past Moab to Sevenmile Canyon 10 miles northwest of Moab, where -it turns abruptly to the northeast and crosses about the middle of -Arches National Park. It crosses the park road and the flat area between -the Fiery Furnace and the southeast end of Devils Garden, but the scars -are so well healed that most visitors are unaware of its existence -unless they happen to look southwestward across Salt Valley, where the -filled excavation is still visible. The filled trench also appears in -the lower middle of figure 23. - -Unlike Canyonlands National Park a few miles to the south, Arches was -not on the route of the famous early-day river expeditions of John -Wesley Powell or of most of those that followed; however, the -southeastern boundary of the park is the Colorado River, formerly the -Grand, which was traversed by the first leg of the ill-fated -Brown-Stanton expedition (Dellenbaugh, 1902, p. 343-369; Lohman, 1974). - -The canyon of the Colorado River along the southeastern park boundary is -deep and beautiful and is a favorite stretch of quiet water for boaters -and floaters. Partly paved State Highway 128 on the east bank is a part -of a most scenic drive from Moab to Cisco—a small railroad town about 32 -miles northeast of the eastern border of figure 1 (fig. 7). This road -has been variously called the “Moab Mail Road,” the “Cisco Cutoff,” the -“Dewey Road,” or the “Dewey Bridge Road” after an old suspension bridge -(fig. 7) across the Colorado River at the old townsite of Dewey about 12 -miles south of Cisco. During the summer this deep colorful canyon may be -viewed at night by artificial illumination. Each evening one-half hour -after sundown, an 80-passenger jet boat leaves a dock north of the -highway bridge, carries passengers several miles upstream, then floats -slowly downstream followed by a truck on the highway carrying 40,000 -watts of searchlights which play back and forth on the colorful red -canyon walls, while the passengers listen to a taped discourse. The -entire trip requires about 2 hours. - -The spectacular arches and red rocks of Arches and vicinity have been -used to advantage in making color movies and color TV shows. Parts of -the recent Walt Disney film “Run, Cougar, Run” were filmed beneath -Delicate Arch (fig. 43), in Professor Valley of the Colorado River just -east of the park (fig. 7), and in other sections of the canyon country. - -Ever since military jet aircraft broke the sound barrier, there has been -a growing number of protests from concerned citizens, organizations, and -National Park Service officials concerning the dangers sonic booms have -posed to Indian ruins and delicate erosional forms in our national parks -and monuments, such as natural bridges, arches and windows, balanced -rocks, and natural spires or towers. Many instances of damaged ruins, -roads, erosional forms, and broken windows were reported. My wife and I -can vouch for the destructive power of such booms, for in October 1969, -while we were having breakfast at Squaw Flat Campground in The Needles -section of Canyonlands National Park, a particularly severe blast from a -low-flying jet not only violently rocked our jack-supported trailer but -broke the windshield of our car. - -At Arches National Park, particular fear was felt for Landscape Arch -(fig. 53), thought to be the longest natural stone arch in the world, -and many a special round trip from headquarters involving 47 road miles -and 2 trail miles was made to check on the condition of this arch after -especially loud sonic booms were heard. Finally, in April 1972, -following a rash of newspaper and magazine articles that spread across -the nation, the Secretary of the Air Force put a virtual stop to this -danger by ruling that, except in an emergency (Moab Times-Independent, -April 12, 1972): - - Supersonic flights must not only avoid passing over national parks, - they also may not fly near them, according to the new regulation. For - each 1,000 feet of altitude, the pilot must allow one-half mile - between the flight path and the park boundary. The regulation also - prohibits supersonic flights below 30,000 feet (over land) so the high - speed planes must allow 15 miles between the nearest park boundary and - the flight path. - -Let us hope that with the aid of this long-needed regulation and -cooperation from visitors, the arches will remain intact for many more -generations to see. - - [Illustration: Petroglyph figure] - - - - -Geographic Setting - - -Geologists have divided the United States into many provinces, each of -which has distinctive geologic and topographic characteristics that set -it apart from the others. One of the most intriguing and scenic of these -is the Colorado Plateaus province, referred to in this report simply as -the Colorado Plateau, or the Plateau (Hunt, C. B., 1956, fig. 1). This -province, which covers some 150,000 square miles and is not all -plateaus, as we shall see, extends from Rifle, Colo., at the northeast -to a little beyond Flagstaff, Ariz., at the southwest, and from Cedar -City, Utah, at the west nearly to Albuquerque, N. Mex., at the -southeast. Arches National Park occupies part of the Canyon Lands -Section, one of the six subdivisions of the Plateau. As the names imply, -the Canyon Lands Section of the Plateau comprises a high plateau -generally ranging in altitude from 5,000 to 7,000 feet, which has been -intricately dissected by literally thousands of canyons. - -Arches National Park is drained entirely by the Colorado River, whose -deep canyon borders the park on the southeast (fig. 1). Most of the park -is drained by Salt Wash, which enters the Colorado River just southeast -of The Windows section, but the southwestern part is drained by -Courthouse Wash and Moab Canyon, whose flows join the Colorado just west -of the bridge on which U.S. Highway 163 crosses the river. - -When viewed at a distance of 1 foot, the shaded relief map (fig. 1) -shows the general shape of the land surface in and near Arches National -Park to the same horizontal scale as it would appear to a person in a -spacecraft flying at a height of 250,000 feet, or about 47.5 miles. This -map was prepared from part of the reverse side of a plastic-relief -map[4] at a scale of 1:250,000 by the U.S. Army Map Service of the Moab -quadrangle, using a simple time- and money-saving method (Stacy, 1962). - - [Illustration: Petroglyph figure] - - - - -Deposition of The Rock Materials - - -The vivid and varied colors of the bare rocks and the fantastic buttes, -spires, columns, alcoves, caves, arches, and other erosional forms of -Arches National Park result from a fortuitous combination of geologic -and climatic circumstances and events unequalled in most other parts of -the world. - -First among these events was the piling up, layer upon layer, of -thousands of feet of sedimentary rocks under a wide variety of -environments. Sedimentary rocks of the region are composed of clay, -silt, sand, and gravel carried and deposited by moving water; silt and -sand transported by wind; and some materials precipitated from water -solutions, such as limestone (calcium carbonate), dolomite (calcium and -magnesium carbonate), gypsum (calcium sulfate with some water), -anhydrite (calcium sulfate alone), common salt (sodium chloride), potash -minerals, such as potassium chloride, and a few other less common types. -Some of the beds were laid down in shallow seas that once covered the -area or in lagoons and estuaries near the sea. Other beds were deposited -by streams in inland basins or plains, a few were deposited in lakes, -and the constituents of deposits like the Navajo Sandstone, were carried -in by the wind. The character and thickness of the exposed sedimentary -rocks and the names and ages assigned to them by geologists are shown in -the rock column (fig. 4) and in the cross section (fig. 8). The history -of their deposition is summarized on pages 98-102. Figure 4 was compiled -mainly from generalized sections given by A. A. Baker (1933), Dane -(1935), McKnight (1940), and Wright, Shawe, and Lohman (1962), and, in -part, from Hite and Lohman (1973). - - [Illustration: ROCK COLUMN OF ARCHES NATIONAL PARK. Average - thickness of units 250-1,000 feet is exaggerated two times; those - less than 250 feet, four times. 1 foot = 0.305 meter. (Fig. 4)] - - - AGE (millions of yrs ago) - GEOLOGIC AGE - NAME OF ROCK UNIT - KIND OF ROCK AND HOW IT IS SCULPTURED BY EROSION - THICKNESS (feet) - NAMED FOR OCCURRENCE AT OR NEAR - - - 100 - Late Cretaceous - Mancos Shale - Lead-gray fossiliferous marine shale. Forms slopes. - ? - Mancos, Colo. - Dakota Sandstone - Conglomeratic sandstone, gray shale, carbonaceous shale, and - coal. Forms ledge. - 100 - Dakota, Nebr. - Unconformity - Late Jurassic - Morrison Fm. - 700 - Morrison, Colo. - Brushy Basin Member - Variegated shale, some sandstone and conglomerate, petrified - wood, chert, and dinosaur bones. May contain some beds - of Burro Canyon (Early Cretaceous) age. - Salt Wash Member - Crossbedded white and gray conglomeratic sandstone beds and - lenses, locally carnotite bearing, and red and gray - sandy mudstone. Forms slopes. - Unconformity - 160 - San Rafael Group - (San Rafael Swell, Utah) - Summerville Fm. - Thin bedded red sandstone and shale. Some cherty limestone - concretions. Forms slopes. - 0-40 - Summerville Point, Utah - Entrada Ss. - (Entrada Point, Utah) - Moab Member - White, crossbedded fine-grained sandstone. Caps Slick Rock - Member north of Devils Garden and Fiery Furnace and on - Klondike Bluffs. - 0-100 - Moab, Utah - Slick Rock Member - Salmon-colored to pink and white fine-grained generally - crossbedded sandstone, containing some medium- to - coarse-grained sand. Generally forms cliffs or narrow - fins many of which contain arches or windows. - 0-240 - Slick Rock, Colo. - Dewey Bridge Member - Red muddy sandstone and sandy mudstone, with contorted - bedding. Forms easily eroded bases to arches in - Windows Section, hence aided in their development. - 0-175 - Dewey Bridge, Utah - Unconformity - 190 - Jurassic and Triassic(?); - Glen Canyon Group - Navajo Sandstone - Massive crossbedded buff, gray, and white fine-grained - sandstone, and local beds of gray limestone. Forms - cliffs along Colorado River, floors Windows Section. - 0-350 - Navajo Country, Four Corners (Glen Canyon, U.) - Late Triassic(?) - Kayenta Formation - Lavender, gray, and white lenses of sandstone, red sandy - shale, and conglomerate. Contains some freshwater - shells. Caps and protects cliffs of Wingate Sandstone. - 0-250 - Kayenta, Ariz. - Late Triassic - Wingate Sandstone - Massive, horizontally bedded and crossbedded reddish buff - fine-grained sandstone. Forms vertical cliffs along - Colorado River, Cache Valley, Salt Wash, and - Courthouse Wash. - 0-350 - Fort Wingate, N. Mex. - 200 - Chinle Formation - Irregularly bedded buff to red sandstone, red mudstone, - limestone, and conglomerate. Lenticular sandstone and - conglomerate (Moss Back Member) locally at base. - Freshwater shells, petrified wood, reptile bones. - Forms slopes. - 0-700 - Chinle Valley, Ariz. - Moss Back Ridge, Utah Unconformity - Middle(?) and Early Triassic - Moenkopi Formation - Thin-bedded brown shale, gray and brown sandstone, arkosic - grit, and conglomerate. Crops out on southwest side of - Moab Valley and in several places in Salt and Cache - Valleys. Forms slopes. - 0-1,300 - Moenkopi Wash, Ariz. - Unconformity - 250 - Permian - Cutler Formation - Chocolate brown and red sandy shale, maroon and pinkish-gray - arkose and conglomerate. Lower part probably - equivalent in age to Rico Formation in areas to south - and east. Crops out in Moab Canyon west of Moab fault. - Forms slopes. - 0-2,500 - Cutler Creek, Colo. - Pennsylvanian - Hermosa Formation - Unnamed upper member - Gray marine fossiliferous sandy limestone, gray and - greenish-gray sandstone and sandy shale, and red sandy - shale. Exposed in ledges southwest of Moab fault in - highway cut west of park entrance. - 0-1,500 - Hermosa Creek, Animas River Valley, Colo. - 300 - Paradox Member - Salt, gypsum, and anhydrite, with black and gray shale and - limestone. Few exposures in Salt and Cache Valleys. - Forms slopes. - 0-11,000 - Paradox Valley, Colo. - Unconformity - Pennsylvanian(?) - Unnamed conglomerate - Yellow sandstone with boulders of limestone and chert - containing Mississippian fossils. Exposed at two - places in Salt Valley. - ? - - -Not exposed in the area but present far beneath the sedimentary cover -and exposed in several places a few miles to the northeast are examples -of the other two principal types of rocks—(1) igneous rocks, solidified -from molten rock forced into or above preexisting rocks along cracks, -joints, and faults, and (2) much older metamorphic rocks, formed from -other preexisting rock types by great heat and pressure at extreme -depths. Igneous rocks of Tertiary age (fig. 59) form the nearby La Sal -Mountains. The particles comprising the sedimentary rocks in the area -were derived by weathering and erosion of all three types of rocks in -various source areas. - -Arches National Park and nearby Canyonlands National Park are both in -the heart of the Canyon Lands Section of the Plateau; therefore, it is -only reasonable to wonder why the differences in their general character -seemingly outweigh their similarities. First, let us consider the -similarities. Both parks are underlain by dominantly red sedimentary -rocks, both parks feature unusual erosional forms of sandstone, and both -contain beautiful natural arches, although the arches in Canyonlands are -restricted almost entirely to the southeastern part of The Needles -section and are in much older rocks than those in Arches. - -To be sure, differences in the rocks themselves play a part in the -dissimilarity of the two parks, and these differences are of two types. -First, there are lateral changes in the character of the strata, known -to geologists as facies changes, brought about by differences in the -environment, in the type of materials, and in the mode of deposition -even within relatively short distances. Thus, during parts of the -Permian Period while sand, later to be known as the Cedar Mesa and White -Rim Sandstone Members of the Cutler Formation, was being deposited in -the southern part of Canyonlands, red mud, silt, and sand of the Cutler -were laid down farther north in Canyonlands (Lohman, 1974, fig. 9), and -similar, though somewhat coarser, beds of the Cutler were laid down at -Arches (fig. 4). Further comparisons of the rock columns in the two -parks show that while limestones of the Rico Formation were being -deposited in a shallow sea in the southern part of Canyonlands, -additional red mud, silt, and sand of the Cutler were being laid down -above sea level in areas to the northeast. The source of the coarser -materials was the ancient Uncompahgre Highland, which stood above sea -level from Late Pennsylvanian time to Late Triassic time (figs. 7, 59). -Although wider and longer, it occupied about the same position as the -present Uncompahgre Plateau between Grand Junction and Gateway, Colo. -Streams eroded the hard igneous and metamorphic rocks from this ancient -landmass and dumped the material into basins to the northeast and -southwest. The basin to the southwest, now called the Paradox basin -(after Paradox Valley, Colo.), at intervals contained shallow seas and -lagoons, which I will discuss later. - -Comparison of the rock columns for the two parks also reveals other -differences. Both parks contain exposures of rocks as old as the -Pennsylvanian Paradox Member of the Hermosa Formation. However, only in -the Horseshoe Canyon Detached Unit of Canyonlands are rocks as young as -the Jurassic Entrada Sandstone, whereas all the spectacular natural -arches that make Arches famous were formed in the Entrada Sandstone, and -Arches also contains several younger formations of Jurassic and -Cretaceous age (fig. 4). - -A commonly asked question is “Why are most of the rocks so red, -particularly those in which the arches were formed?” This can be -answered with one word—iron, the same pigment used in rouge and in paint -for barns and boxcars. Various oxides of iron, some including water, -produce not only brick red but also pink, salmon, brown, buff, yellow, -and even green or bluish green. This does not imply that the rocks could -be considered as sources of iron ore, for the merest trace, generally -only 1 to 3 percent, is enough to produce even the darkest shades of -red. The white or nearly white Navajo Sandstone and the Moab Member of -the Entrada Sandstone contain little or no iron. - -As pointed out by Stokes (1970, p. 3), microscopic examination of the -colored grains of quartz or other minerals shows the pigment to be -merely a thin coating on and between white or colorless particles. Sand -or silt weathered from such rocks soon loses its color by the scouring -action of wind or water, so that most of the sand dunes and sand bars -are white or nearly so. - - - - - Bending And Breaking of The Rocks - - -Perhaps the greatest geologic contrast between these two closely -adjacent parks lies in their different geologic structure—the kind and -amount of bending and breaking of the once nearly flat lying strata. -Consolidated rocks, particularly brittle types, are subject to two types -of fracturing by Earth forces. Joints are fractures along which no -movement has taken place. Faults are fractures along which there has -been displacement of the two sides relative to one another (fig. 6). As -noted in the report on Canyonlands National Park (Lohman, 1974), the -strata there, particularly along the valley of the Green River, are -virtually flat lying or have only very gentle dips. Along the Colorado -River above the confluence with the Green, however, the slightly dipping -strata are interrupted by several gentle anticlinal and synclinal folds -(fig. 5) and by at least one fault (fig. 6). The largest of these -folds—the Cane Creek anticline, which crosses the Colorado River north -of Canyonlands—has yielded oil in the past and is now yielding potash by -solution mining of salt beds in the Paradox Member of the Hermosa -Formation. - - [Illustration: COMMON TYPES OF ROCK FOLDS. Top, Anticline, or - upfold; closed anticlines are called domes. Bottom, Syncline, or - downfold; closed synclines are called basins. From Hansen (1969, p. - 31, 108). (Fig. 5)] - -In strong contrast to Canyonlands, Arches National Park contains three -northwesterly trending major folds and is bordered on the southwest by a -fourth. The largest and most important are the collapsed Salt Valley and -Cache Valley anticlines, which separate the two most scenic groups of -arches and other erosional forms—Eagle Park, Devils Garden, Fiery -Furnace, and Delicate Arch on the northeast, and Klondike Bluffs, -Herdina Park, and The Windows section on the southwest. Farther -southwest is the Courthouse syncline, containing the attractive group of -erosional forms called Courthouse Towers (fig. 1). Finally, near the -southwest edge of the park, is the Seven Mile-Moab Valley anticline -(also known as the Moab-Spanish Valley anticline), whose southwest limb -is cut off by the Moab fault (figs. 7, 23). The folds just named and the -sharply contrasting geologic structures of the two parks are well shown -on sheet 2 of the geologic map of the Moab quadrangle (Williams, 1964), -and the geologic formations are shown in color on sheet 1. - - [Illustration: COMMON TYPES OF FAULTS. Top, Normal, or gravity - fault, resulting from tension in and lengthening of the Earth’s - crust. Bottom, reverse fault, resulting from compression in and - shortening of the Earth’s crust. Low-angle reverse faults generally - are called overthrusts or overthrust faults. In both types, note - amount of displacement and repetition of strata. Displacements may - range from a few inches or feet to many thousands of feet. From - Hansen (1969, p. 116). (Fig. 6)] - - [Illustration: PARADOX BASIN, in southeastern Utah and southwestern - Colorado, showing the extent of common salt and major potash - deposits in the Paradox Member of the Hermosa Formation, and the - salt anticlines. Adapted from Hite (1972, fig. 1B). (Fig. 7)] - - [Illustration: GEOLOGIC SECTION ACROSS NORTHWEST END OF ARCHES - NATIONAL PARK, showing strata beneath Courthouse syncline and Salt - Valley anticline. For line of section, see figure 9. Caprock - consists of gypsum and shale, from which common salt has been - leached by ground water, covered by alluvium. Heavy slanted lines - near crest of anticline are faults. Adapted from Hite and Lohman - (1973, fig. 13). (Fig. 8)] - - [Illustration: INDEX MAP OF NORTHWESTERN PART OF ARCHES NATIONAL - PARK, showing axes of Courthouse syncline and Salt Valley anticline, - line of section _A_-_A_′ in figure 8 and line of section _B_-_B_′ in - figure 10. Open circles along line of section are sites of test - wells for oil, gas, or potash. Adapted from Hite and Lohman (1973, - fig. 12). (Fig. 9)] - -Arches National Park and most of nearby Canyonlands National Park lie -within what geologists have termed the “Paradox basin,” which contains a -remarkable assemblage of sediments called the Paradox Member of the -Hermosa Formation. These deposits were laid down in shallow seas and -lagoons during Middle Pennsylvanian time, roughly 300 million years ago -(fig. 59). As indicated in figure 4, the Paradox Member contains, in -addition to shale and limestone, minerals deposited by the evaporation -and concentration of sea water—common salt, gypsum, anhydrite, and -potash salts. For this reason such deposits are collectively called -evaporites. Figure 7 also shows that the northeastern part of the -Paradox basin, which is the deepest part, contains a series of partly -alined anticlines which have cores of salt and, hence, are called salt -anticlines. As might be expected, roughly alined synclines intervene -between the anticlines, but are not shown because of space limitations. -According to Cater (1970, p. 50): “The salt anticlines of Utah and -Colorado are unique in North America both in structure and in mode of -development.” To this may be added that they also are relatively rare in -the world. - -A section across the Salt Valley anticline and the Courthouse syncline -in the northwestern part of the park is shown in figure 8, and the axes -of these structures are shown in figure 9. - -Normally, a series of roughly parallel northwestward-trending folds -would result from shortening of a segment of the Earth’s crust by -compressive forces from the northeast and the southwest, but such does -not seem to be the origin of these folds. The folds occur in a -relatively narrow belt along the northeastern part of the Paradox basin, -the deepest part, which was broken by a series of northwesterly trending -normal faults (fig. 6) that cut the deep-lying Precambrian and older -Paleozoic rocks (fig. 8) prior to the deposition of the salt-bearing -Paradox Member of the Hermosa Formation. Movement along these faults -continued intermittently during and after deposition of the Paradox, -however, and resulted in the formation of a series of northwesterly -trending ridges and troughs. Following Paradox time, normal sediments -derived from a rising landmass to the northeast began to fill the basin. -These sediments accumulated most rapidly and to greater thicknesses in -the fault-derived troughs. Salt differs from normal sediments in two -properties critical to the development of salt anticlines: first, salt -is considerably lighter (fig. 10), and, second, salt under pressure will -flow slowly by plastic deformation, much like ice in a glacier flows -slowly downstream. Thus, salt in the troughs underlying the thicker and -heavier masses of sediments was squeezed into the adjoining ridges, -causing them to rise. Once started, this process tended to be -self-perpetuating, as the flow of salt from beneath the thick masses of -sediments in the troughs made room for the accumulation of still greater -thicknesses of normal sediments. Consequently, the troughs receiving -most of the sediments began to form downfolds, or synclines, and the -ridges receiving little or no normal sediments began to form huge salt -rolls that later were to become the cores of the salt anticlines when -finally the ridges too were buried by sediments. Thus, the cross section -(fig. 8) shows about 12,000 feet of the Paradox Member beneath the crest -of the Salt Valley anticline and only about 2,000 feet beneath the -Courthouse syncline. Near the middle of these structures farther to the -southeast, all the Paradox Member has been squeezed out from beneath the -bordering synclines. - - [Illustration: GRAVITY ANOMALIES OVER SALT VALLEY, along line _B-B′_ - shown in figure 9, and relative densities and shapes of rock bodies - beneath. Densities are in grams per cubic centimeter. Gravity values - are in milligals, as shown. The standard acceleration of gravity is - 980.665 centimeters per second per second; 1 gal is equal to 1 - centimeter per second per second, and 1 milligal is one thousandth - of a gal. Modified from Case and Joesting (1972, fig. 2). (Fig. 10)] - -The general shape of the Salt Valley anticline is shown also by -cross-section _B-B′_ (fig. 10), taken along the northeast-southwest line -_B-B′_ in figure 9, which is based upon so-called gravity anomalies over -Salt Valley. The lighter Paradox Member, having an average density of -2.20, has a lower gravitational attraction than the heavier rocks on -each side, which have an average density of 2.55. - -By this time you are doubtless wondering why prominent upfolds of the -rocks, such as the Salt Valley anticline and associated Cache Valley -anticline and the Seven Mile-Moab Valley anticline, now underlie -relatively deep valleys bordered by prominent ridges. The formation of -these valleys was not simple and involved many steps extending over a -considerable amount of geologic time, as portrayed by Cater (1970, fig. -13; 1972, fig. 4). For a part of the story, let us reexamine the cross -section (fig. 8); the rest of the story will be told in the section on -“Uplift and Erosion.” - -Figure 8 shows that the unnamed upper member of the Hermosa Formation -and the overlying Cutler and Moenkopi Formations are thickest beneath -the Courthouse syncline but wedge out against the flanks of the -anticline. Although the Chinle Formation and younger rocks appear to -extend across the fold, and may have extended across this part of the -fold, in Colorado all rocks older than the Jurassic Morrison wedge out -against the flanks of the salt anticlines (Cater, 1970, p. 35) and also -in the widest part of the Salt Valley anticline southwest of the section -in figure 8. The salt anticlines were uplifted in a series of pulses so -that some formations either were not deposited over the rising -structures or were removed by erosion before deposition of the next -younger unit. By Morrison time the supply of salt beneath the synclines -seems to have become used up; hence, the anticline stopped rising, and -the Morrison and younger formations were deposited across the -structures. Thus, in figure 4, the minimum thickness of all units older -than the Morrison is given as zero. Figure 4 shows the marine Mancos -Shale to be the youngest rock unit exposed in the park, but the -Mesaverde Group of Late Cretaceous age and possibly the early Tertiary -(fig. 59) Wasatch Formation may have been deposited and later removed by -erosion. - - - - - Uplift And Erosion of The Plateau - - -Next among the main events leading to the formation of landforms in the -park was the raising and additional buckling and breaking of the Plateau -by Earth forces partly during the Late Cretaceous but mainly during the -early Tertiary. After uplift and deformation, the Plateau was vigorously -attacked by various forces of erosion, and the rock materials pried -loose or dissolved were eventually carted away to the Gulf of California -by the ancestral Colorado River. Some idea of the enormous volume of -rock thus removed is apparent when one looks down some 2,000 feet to the -river from any of the high overlooks farther south, such as Dead Horse -Point (Lohman, 1974, fig. 15). Not so apparent, however, is the fact -that younger Mesozoic and Tertiary rocks more than 1 mile thick once -overlaid this high plateau but have been swept away by erosion. In all, -the river has carried thousands of cubic miles of sediment to the sea -and is still actively at work on this gigantic earth-moving project. In -an earlier report (Lohman, 1965, p. 42) I estimated that the rate of -removal may have been as great as about 3 cubic miles each century. For -a few years the bulk of the sediment was dumped into Lake Mead, but now -Lake Powell is getting much of it. When these and other reservoirs -ultimately become filled with sediment—for reservoirs and lakes are but -temporary things—the Gulf of California will again become the burial -ground. - -According to Cater (1970, p. 65-67), who made an intensive study of the -salt anticlines, collapse of their crests seemingly occurred in two -stages—the first stage following Late Cretaceous folding; the second -following uplift of the Plateau later in the Tertiary. Solution and -removal of salt by ground water played the leading role in the ultimate -collapse. - - [Illustration: TILTED BLOCK OF ROCKS IN CACHE VALLEY GRABEN, viewed - to the east toward Cache Valley from point on gravelled side road to - Wolfe’s cabin, about half a mile east of paved road. Steep slope on - left composed of Jurassic Morrison Formation, hogback on top formed - by Dakota Sandstone of Late Cretaceous age, and gentle slopes to - right composed of the Mancos Shale of Late Cretaceous age. (Fig. - 11)] - -As shown by Dane (1935, pl. 1, p. 121-126), collapse of the Salt Valley -and Cache Valley anticlines was accompanied by considerable faulting and -jointing, particularly along their northeast sides; by the upward -intrusion of two large areas of the Paradox Member of the Hermosa -Formation, one just northwest of the park and one in the middle of Salt -Valley south of the campground; and by two downdropped masses of rock -known to geologists as grabens (pronounced gräbǝns)—one just northwest -of the park and one called the Cache Valley graben, which extends both -east and west from Salt Wash. The Cache Valley graben has preserved from -erosion the youngest rock formations in the park, as shown in figure 11. - -The remarkable jointing of the rocks on the northeast limb of the Salt -Valley anticline is shown in figure 12. All the arches in this section -of the park were eroded through thin fins of the Slick Rock Member of -the Entrada Sandstone, and some, like Broken Arch, figure 16, are capped -by the Moab Member. - -Differences in the composition, hardness, arrangement, and thickness of -the rock layers determine their ability to withstand the forces of -fracturing and erosion and, hence, whether they tend to form cliffs, -ledges, fins, or slopes. Most of the cliff- or ledge-forming rocks are -sandstones consisting of sand deposited by wind or water and later -cemented together by silica (SiO₂), calcium carbonate (CaCO₃), or one of -the iron oxides (such as Fe₂O₃), but some hard, resistant ledges are -made of limestone (calcium carbonate). The rock column (fig. 4) shows in -general how these rock formations are sculptured by erosion and how they -protect underlying layers from more rapid erosion. The nearly vertical -cliffs along the lower reaches of Salt and Courthouse Washes and the -Colorado River canyon upstream from Moab consist of the well-cemented -Wingate Sandstone protected above by the even harder sandstones of the -Kayenta Formation. (See figs. 21, 22.) To borrow from an earlier report -of mine (Lohman, 1965, p. 17), “Vertical cliffs and shafts of the -Wingate Sandstone endure only where the top of the formation is capped -by beds of the next younger rock unit—the Kayenta Formation. The Kayenta -is much more resistant than the Wingate, so even a few feet of the -Kayenta * * * protect the rock beneath.” In some places, as shown in -figures 19 and 20, the overlying Navajo Sandstone makes up the topmost -unit of the cliff. - - [Illustration: JOINTED NORTHEAST FLANK OF SALT VALLEY ANTICLINE, - viewed westward from an airplane. Light-colored wedge in middle - background is Salt Valley bordered on extreme left by Klondike - Bluffs. Dark-colored fins and pinnacles on left, of Slick Rock - Member of the Entrada Sandstone, form Devils Garden. Sharp pinnacle - above valley is the Dark Angel. (See fig. 57.) White bands of - sandstone extending to foreground are composed of Moab Member of the - Entrada. Note vegetation in the joints. Photograph by National Park - Service. (Fig. 12)] - -Last but far from least among the factors responsible for the grandeur -of Arches National Park and the Plateau in general is the desert -climate, which allows one to see virtually every foot of the vividly -colored naked rocks, and which has made possible the creation and -preservation of such a wide variety of fantastic sculptures. A wetter -climate would have produced a far different, smoother landscape in which -most of the rocks and land forms would have been hidden by vegetation. -On the Plateau the vegetation grows mainly on the high mesas and the -narrow flood plains bordering the rivers, but scanty vegetation also -occurs on the gentle slopes or flats. - -The combination of layers of sediments of different composition, -hardness and thickness, the bending and breaking of the rocks, and the -desert climate, has produced steep slopes having many cliffs, ledges, -and fins with generally sharp to angular edges, rather than the subdued -rounded forms of more humid regions. - - - - - Origin And Development of The Arches - - -Among the questions commonly asked by visitors are, “How do arches -form?”, “Why are some openings called windows, others arches?”, “What is -the difference, if any, between arches or windows and natural bridges, -such as those at Natural Bridges National Monument?”, and “How many -arches are there in Arches National Park?” Before taking up the origin -and development of arches, I shall attempt to explain the differences -between the three types of natural rock openings named above and comment -upon the number of arches. - - [Illustration: INDEX MAP, showing localities where most of the - photographs were taken. Arrows point to distant views. Numbers refer - to figure numbers. (Fig. 13)] - -I believe most geologists and geographers are in general agreement with -Cleland (1910, p. 314) that “a ‘natural bridge’ is a natural stone arch -that spans a valley of erosion. A ‘natural arch’ is a similar structure -which, however, does not span an erosion valley.” According to this -definition, Natural Bridges National Monument includes three true -bridges, whereas all the larger rock openings in Arches National Park -with which I am familiar are properly termed “arches,” but some are -called windows. If we were to distinguish between arches and windows, we -might say that arches occur at or near the base of a rock wall, as do -the doors of a house or building, whereas windows are found well above -ground level. This distinction was not followed in naming the rock -openings in the park, however; for example, Tunnel Arch (fig. 14) is -considerably higher above the ground than North Window (figs. 37, 38) or -South Window (fig. 39). - -As to the number of arches in the park, I might begin by saying that -there is no universal agreement as to how large a rock opening must be -to qualify as an arch. The pamphlet formerly handed to visitors entering -the park proclaimed that “Nearly 90 arches have been discovered, and -others are probably hidden away in remote and rugged parts of the area,” -but the average visitor probably sees less than a third of this number. - -David May, Assistant Chief of Interpretation and Resource Management, -Moab office of National Park Service (oral commun., Oct. 1973), believes -that if only those in the park having a minimum dimension of 10 feet in -any one direction were considered to be arches, the number would boil -down to about 56 or 57. The most complete count of arches and other -openings in all of southeastern Utah was made by Dale J. Stevens, -Professor of Geography at Brigham Young University, during the period -February through April 1973. He considered those with openings of 3 feet -or larger and found more than 300 in southeastern Utah, of which 124 are -in Arches National Park, although he stated that several areas of the -park were not intensively searched because of time limitations (written -commun., July and Sept. 1973). The 124 arches and openings are -distributed among the several named areas of the park, as follows: -Courthouse Towers, 13; Herdina Park, 11; The Windows section, 25; -Delicate Arch area, 3; Fiery Furnace, 19; Devils Garden, 25; upper -Devils Garden (northwest of Devils Garden), 14; Eagle Park, 2; and -Klondike Bluffs, 12. - -Professor Stevens generally used a range finder or a steel tape to -measure the width and height of the openings and the width and thickness -of the spans, but estimated a few of the dimensions. In the text -descriptions of arches or captions of figures that follow, I am -including all or part of these measurements, without further -acknowledgment. - -All the arches in the park were formed in the Entrada Sandstone, mainly -in the Slick Rock Member but partly in the Slick Rock and Dewey Bridge -Members, and a few in the Slick Rock Member occur not far beneath the -base of the overlying Moab Member. The sandstone of the three members is -composed mainly of quartz sand cemented together by calcium carbonate -(CaCO₃), which also forms the mineral calcite and the rock known as -limestone, but the Dewey Bridge Member also contains beds of sandy -mudstone. Limestone and calcite are soluble in acid, even in weak acid -such as carbonic acid, HHCO₃, also written H₂CO₃, formed by the solution -of carbon dioxide (CO₂) in water. Ground water, found everywhere in rock -openings at different depths beneath the land surface, contains -dissolved carbon dioxide derived from decaying organic matter in soil, -from the atmosphere, and from other sources. Even rainwater and snow -contain a little carbon dioxide absorbed from the atmosphere—enough to -dissolve small amounts of limestone or of calcite cement from sandstone. -The calcite cement in the Entrada and in many other sandstones is -unevenly distributed, however, so that all the cement is removed first -from places that contain the least amounts, and, once the cement is -dissolved away, the loose sand is carried away by gravity, wind, or -water. - -Both nearly flat but slightly irregular beds of sandstone and relatively -thin walls or fins of sandstone are prime targets for this differential -erosion. Potholes, as shown in figure 18_A_, may be formed in relatively -flat beds by the dissolving action of repeated accumulations of -rainwater or snowmelt, even in arid regions like the Plateau. - -Relatively thin walls, or fins as they are called in parts of the -Plateau including Arches, are targets for the formation of alcoves and -caves by solution of cement and removal of sand by gravity, wind, and -water, aided by the prying action of frost in joints, bedding planes, or -other openings. Once a breakthrough of a wall or fin occurs, weakened -chunks from the ceiling tend to fall, and natural arches of various -shapes and sizes are produced. Arches form the strongest shapes for -supporting overlying rock loads, as the rock in the arch is compressed -toward each abutment by the heavy loads. Blocks of compressed rock -beneath a relatively flat ceiling tend to be dislodged also by expansion -due to release of pent-up pressure, until a strong self-supporting arch -is formed. Release of pent-up pressure in rock walls may help also in -initiating the formation of alcoves or caves in cliff faces. Man, -including the ancient Greeks, Romans, Egyptians, and others, has long -made use of arches in building bridges, aqueducts, temples, cathedrals, -and other enduring edifices. - -As vividly shown in figure 12, the Entrada Sandstone on the northeast -flank of the Salt Valley anticline has been broken by Earth forces into -thin slabs mostly 10 to 20 feet thick between nearly parallel joints, -but, as will be noted in the descriptions of individual arches, some -rock walls are only 1 or 2 feet thick, whereas others are 50 feet thick -or more. Some weak or thin slabs have weathered away, leaving the -stronger or thicker ones as towering fins, particularly in the Fiery -Furnace and Devils Garden areas. Jointing on a less spectacular scale -also has broken the Entrada in areas south of Salt Valley, leaving walls -or fins of rock. - - [Illustration: TUNNEL ARCH, reached by short trail north of main - trail through Devils Garden. Opening is 26½ feet wide and 22 feet - high; span is about 14 feet thick. (Fig. 14)] - -Although all the arches in the park were carved from the Entrada -Sandstone, slight differences in their mode of origin or placement -within the Entrada allow them to be grouped into three classes: (1) -vertical arches formed in the Slick Rock Member alone or in the Slick -Rock and Moab Members, (2) vertical arches formed mainly in the Slick -Rock Member but partly in, and with the aid of, the incompetent -underlying Dewey Bridge Member, and (3) horizontal arches, or so-called -pothole arches, formed from the union of a vertical pothole and a -horizontal cave. Hereinafter, the three members will be referred to -alone, without reference to the Entrada. - - [Illustration: “BABY ARCH,” just southwest of Sheep Rock in - Courthouse Towers area. For details, see text. (Fig. 15)] - -Before giving examples of arches in each of the three classes, it is -appropriate to remark that the arches and other erosion forms in the -park represent but a fleeting instant in geologic time. Many of the -pinnacles or piles of rock may be the broken remains of former arches, -and many of the arches we see may be gone tomorrow, next year, or a few -hundreds of years and, certainly, before many thousands of years. On the -other hand, many new arches will form by the processes described above -as the geologic clock ticks on. - - [Illustration: BROKEN ARCH, reached by a ½-mile trail leading - northward across field that separates Fiery Furnace from Devils - Garden. White thin-bedded unit at top is the Moab Member, which - rests upon the massive salmon-colored Slick Rock Member. Opening is - 59 feet wide and 43 feet high. (Fig. 16)] - - - Examples of Arches - -Tunnel Arch (fig. 14) is a good example of an arch eroded entirely -within the massive Slick Rock Member. Just southwest of Sheep Rock (fig. -31) is an unnamed opening in the lower part of the Slick Rock Member -which I call “Baby Arch,” because it is one of the newest ones visible -from the park road (fig. 15). It is only 25½ feet wide and 14 feet high -and penetrates a wall 14 feet thick. Note that the breakthrough probably -began along the prominent recessed bedding plane at the base of the -arch. Its youthfulness is also indicated by the sharp, angular breaks in -the ceiling and by the pile of freshly fallen rocks. Some visitors have -asked park personnel why they have not cleared away such debris! Despite -its youthfulness, the ceiling has already taken on the shape of an arch. - -Broken Arch (fig. 16) was formed near the top of the Slick Rock Member -and is strengthened and protected by the more resistant overlying Moab -Member, which forms the upper half of the span. The crest is only 6 feet -thick at the thinnest point and is not broken as the name seems to -imply. - -Double Arch (fig. 17), “one” of the most beautiful in the park, is in -The Windows section near the east end of the road. The southeast arch, -which is 160 feet wide and 105 feet high, is the second largest in the -park, but the west arch measures only 60 feet wide and 61 feet high. In -common with most arches in The Windows section, these two arches of the -Slick Rock Member rest upon bases of the weak, easily eroded Dewey -Bridge Member. More rapid erosion of the Dewey Bridge undercut the -arches and hastened their development. - - [Illustration: DOUBLE ARCH, in The Windows section. (Fig. 17)] - - [Illustration: PROBABLE STEPS IN FORMATION OF POTHOLE ARCH. _A_, - Original pothole probably formed in relatively level bed of - sandstone, such as this one, which is in an older rock unit—the - White Rim Sandstone Member of the Cutler Formation, a unit not - present in Arches. This pothole, which contains 4 feet of water, is - in nearby Canyonlands National Park (Lohman, 1974, fig. 17), just - north of the edge of the White Rim, about 4½ miles north of the - confluence of the Green and Colorado Rivers. Photograph by E. N. - Hinrichs. _B_, Pothole is being deepened by solution while cliff is - receding toward pothole by weathering. _C_, As erosion continues, - pothole and cave in cliff face are growing deeper. _D_, Pothole Arch - formed by union of vertical pothole and horizontal cave. _E_, - Telephoto view of Pothole Arch from park road near stop 14. Visible - span is 90 feet across and 30 feet high. (Fig. 18)] - - [Illustration: Fig. 18 B] - - [Illustration: Fig. 18 C] - - [Illustration: Fig. 18 D] - - [Illustration: Fig. 18 E] - -The cause of the wavy bedding in the Dewey Bridge Member, as shown in -figure 17 but as better shown in the frontispiece, is not known for sure -but generally is regarded to be the result of irregular slumping during -or just after deposition of the sediments in a body of water, caused by -the weight of overlying sediments. - -The last example I shall take up is Pothole Arch (fig. 18), which -differs from all the other examples in that this arch is roughly -horizontal rather than vertical. Most park visitors, including me, were -not aware of this interesting feature until after publication of the -pamphlet “The Guide to an Auto Tour of Arches National Park,” which, as -previously noted, may be purchased at the Visitor Center. Pothole Arch -caps a ridge high above the road half a mile northwest of Garden of -Eden, so only those who happened to look up at the right place were -aware of its existence. - -A different mode of origin than that given in the caption for figure 18 -is depicted on a poster in the Visitor Center, which shows the pothole -being formed by a waterfall having an apparent flow rate of several -cubic feet per second. Potholes can be formed in this manner in places -where sufficient streamflow is available, either continuously or -following rainstorms, but I believe the process depicted in figure 18 is -a more likely mode of origin for Pothole Arch. - - - - - How to See the Park - - -As aptly stated on a poster in the Visitor Center, how to see the park -depends in part upon the question “How long can you stay?” Inasmuch as -the park entrance and Visitor Center are beside a through U.S. Highway -(163), many motorists first become aware of the park’s existence from -the entrance sign, and some take time for at least a quick visit, such -as a round trip to The Windows section, which can be made in an hour or -so. - -For those who have or take more time and are able to walk at least short -distances, a visit of 1 or 2 days is a very rewarding experience. -Others, particularly avid shutterbugs and those with camping gear, -profitably spend from several days to a week or more and hike all or -most of the trails. - -Regardless of how long you plan to spend, I urge at least a brief stop -at the Visitor Center, where excellent displays and a narrated slide -show help materially in conveying just what the park has to offer. At -the counter you can purchase a copy of “The Guide to an Auto Tour of -Arches National Park,” which explains the views from each of 25 numbered -stops along the park road, as well as other reports describing arches or -other parks and monuments. - -The park is open the year round, but, like most high deserts, it gets -rather hot in the summer and cold enough in the winter for occasional -snows and is sometimes closed temporarily because of heavy snowfall. The -weather generally is ideal during the spring and fall. Even though -summer daytime temperatures may exceed 100°F (37.8°C) and slow down -hikers, the nights are cool enough for comfortable sleeping beneath -ample covers. - -Before beginning our trip through the park proper, let us consider a -beautiful part many people fail to realize actually belongs to the -park—the Colorado River canyon forming the southeastern boundary. - - [Illustration: Petroglyph figure] - - - - -A Trip Through The Park - - - Colorado River Canyon - -The southeastern boundary of the park for about 11 miles is the Colorado -River, from the bridge on which U.S. Highway 163 crosses the river to a -point upstream about half a mile below the mouth of Salt Wash. -Illuminated night float trips down part of this reach are run during the -summer, as noted on p. 16. Partly paved State Highway 128 follows the -southeast side of the river for about 30 miles to Dewey Bridge, then -goes northward about 15 miles to Cisco, where it connects with Highway -I-70. - -The rocks of the Glen Canyon Group form the southernmost corner of the -park, as shown in figure 19. About 2 miles northeast of the bridge, we -cross the axis of the Courthouse syncline (fig. 9), which brings the -Navajo Sandstone down nearly to river level, as shown in figure 20. The -underlying Kayenta Formation is largely hidden by vegetation and -alluvial deposits in this view. - - [Illustration: GLEN CANYON GROUP, forming southernmost point of - park, as viewed across the Colorado River from State Highway 128 - half a mile above Moab bridge carrying U.S. Highway 163. Massive - sandstone forming about the lower third of cliff is the Wingate - Sandstone, darker thin-bedded sandstones and mudstones forming - middle section of cliff comprise the Kayenta Formation, upper cliff - is the lower part of the Navajo Sandstone. Note that the saltcedar - (tamarisk), which lines both banks of the river, is in full bloom. - (Fig. 19)] - - [Illustration: NAVAJO SANDSTONE CLIFFS, bordering west bank of - Colorado River in Courthouse syncline, from State Highway 128 about - 2 miles above the Moab bridge. Note rounded domes at top of cliff. - (Fig. 20)] - - [Illustration: MOUTH OF SALT WASH, viewed across Colorado River from - point on State Highway 128, 11 miles above Moab bridge. Dark cliffs - on upper right and left are of Wingate Sandstone capped by thin - protective cover of resistant sandstone beds of the Kayenta - Formation. In background Wingate is overlain by entire Kayenta - Formation and lower part of the Navajo Sandstone. Wingate is - underlain to river level by weathered slope of the Chinle Formation. - Water in Salt Wash is largely backwater from the bankfull river; - actual flow in wash generally is much less but at times reaches - flood proportions. (Fig. 21)] - -About 11 miles above the Moab bridge is the mouth of Salt Wash (fig. 1), -as viewed from State Highway 128. (See fig. 21.) Seventeen miles above -the bridge (east of area shown in fig. 1), we get an excellent view of -the southeast end of the highly faulted Cache Valley anticline, as shown -in figure 22. The background shown in the photograph formerly was the -easternmost part of the former monument, but when the monument graduated -to a park on November 16, 1971, this part of Cache Valley along with -most of Dry Mesa was withdrawn from the park and put under the -supervision of the Bureau of Land Management, also a part of the -Department of the Interior. - - [Illustration: SOUTHEAST END OF FAULTED CACHE VALLEY ANTICLINE, - viewed northwestward across Colorado River from a point on State - Highway 128, 17 miles above Moab bridge. High cliff of Wingate - Sandstone on left is capped by thin protective layer of the Kayenta - Formation. About upper third of slope below base of cliff is the - Chinle Formation, below which is the Moenkopi Formation extending to - high-water level. Note bent and broken beds on right. (Fig. 22)] - -As noted on page 16, part of “Run, Cougar, Run” was filmed just upstream -from the irrigated field in the foreground of figure 22, in a wide part -of the valley called Professor Valley (fig. 7). This valley and the -Richardson Amphitheater on the southeast side of the river were named -after a Professor Richardson who settled in the area in the 1880’s. The -long abandoned townsite of Richardson was 1¼ miles due east from the -point from which figure 22 was taken. - - - Headquarters Area - -The junction of the park road with U.S. Highway 163 is shown at the -lower left of figure 23, and the entrance station, Visitor Center, -parking lot, and several buildings are seen at the lower right. Several -residences for park personnel and other buildings are shown in figure -25. As shown in the lower part of figure 23, the geology at the park -entrance is rather complex, as the park boundary here is partly along -the Moab fault and partly along a branch fault—both in the Seven -Mile-Moab Valley anticline (fig. 7). The Moab fault extends -northwestward from Moab for more than 30 miles (McKnight, 1940, p. 120, -121, pl. 1). - -As shown in figure 23, soon after leaving the checking station the park -road begins to ascend the first of several switchbacks, and cuts first -into the Slick Rock Member, then the Dewey Bridge Member, and finally -the Navajo Sandstone the rest of the way to and beyond the top of the -hill. - -From points a mile or so up the hill may be seen interesting features in -several directions.[5] The view to the southwest is shown in figure 23, -to the west are the Three Penguins (fig. 24). A good view of the Moab -Valley is had by looking southeastward (fig. 25). A well in the Navajo -Sandstone at the base of the hill supplies water to all the residences -and to the Visitor Center, where a drinking fountain and modern -restrooms are available to the public. Storage is provided by a steel -tank hidden in a ravine above the buildings shown in figure 25. - -To the north the wall of Entrada Sandstone is cut by a normal fault -(fig. 6), as shown in figure 26. - - [Illustration: FAULTED SEVEN MILE-MOAB VALLEY ANTICLINE. Top, View - toward the southwest from park road about 1 mile above entrance - station. Bottom, Geologic interpretation of photograph in part after - McKnight (1940, pl. 1). Moab fault and branch fault (both normal - faults, fig. 6) unite just beyond ridge of Slick Rock Member. Total - vertical displacement along both faults is about 2,500 feet. H.F., - unnamed upper member of Hermosa Formation; M.F., Moenkopi Formation; - D, downthrown side of faults; U, upthrown side. Valley fill and - slope wash of recent (Holocene) age obscure faults and underlying - rocks. The original sequence of the rocks may be visualized by - placing the Navajo Sandstone, the upper part of which is exposed at - the lower right, on top of the Kayenta Formation, the lower few feet - of which cap and protect the cliffs of Wingate Sandstone in the - background. The Pacific Northwest (gas) Pipeline mentioned on page - 15 is buried beneath the slice of the Moenkopi Formation between the - two faults, which accounts for the disturbed appearance of the rock. - (Fig. 23)] - - [Illustration: Geologic interpretation of photograph] - - [Illustration: THREE PENGUINS, viewed westward from park road about - 1 mile above entrance station. Penguins are carved in massive Slick - Rock Member seen resting upon thin-bedded Dewey Bridge Member. (Fig. - 24)] - - [Illustration: MOAB VALLEY, viewed southeastward from park road - about 1 mile above entrance station. Moab fault in about middle of - valley, hidden beneath recent (Holocene) valley fill and slope wash, - separates unnamed upper member of Hermosa Formation just above U.S. - Highway 163 on right from Navajo Sandstone forming hills on left and - ledges in foreground. Park Service residences at base of hill. White - patch bordering Colorado River on northwest is tailings pile of - Atlas Corporation’s uranium mill. Moab and Spanish Valley are beyond - river, and south end of La Sal Mountains forms distant skyline. - (Fig. 25)] - - [Illustration: FAULTED WALL OF ENTRADA SANDSTONE, north of park road - about 1 mile above entrance station. Fault is nearly vertical and - normal (fig. 6), but fault trace slopes steeply downward to right, - separating upthrown Slick Rock and Dewey Bridge Members on left from - downthrown Slick Rock Member on right. Light-colored rock in - foreground is Navajo Sandstone. Displacement probably does not - exceed 50 feet. (Fig. 26)] - - [Illustration: PARK AVENUE, viewed to the north along trail. (Fig. - 27)] - - - Courthouse Towers Area - -About 2.3 miles from the entrance station is a turnoff and parking area -at the south end of the Park Avenue trail (stop 2), which is about 1 -mile long and ends at another parking area 1.7 miles farther north. An -interesting hike is best made from south to north in a downhill -direction, and hikers generally meet the cars of relatives or friends -awaiting them at the northern parking area. The trail begins in a canyon -cut in the soft Dewey Bridge Member and walled by high fins of the Slick -Rock Member (fig. 27), but farther north the canyon is floored by the -bare Navajo Sandstone. The avenue was named from the resemblance of the -east wall to a row of tall buildings. Atop the west wall, just to the -left of the view in figure 27, are two balanced rocks (fig. 28). The one -on the left, which resembles somewhat the head of an Egyptian queen, is -offset to the right along a bedding plane, and this offset may have been -caused by an earthquake. - -As we progress toward Courthouse Towers proper, lofty fins and monoliths -lie mostly on our left, and to the right are fine distant views of the -La Sal Mountains (stop 4). A general view of the Courthouse Towers is -shown in figure 29, and closeups of two of the named rock sculptures—the -Three Gossips and Sheep Rock—are shown in figures 30 and 31. Just beyond -Sheep Rock, which some think resembles the Sphinx, we see “Baby Arch,” -shown in figure 15. - -Five miles from the entrance station, the road crosses Courthouse Wash -on a modern bridge (stop 6)—a distinct improvement over the two tracks -in the sand we used in 1946. The Courthouse syncline, named after the -wash, extends northwestward through here. (See figs. 8, 9, 20.) About a -mile west of the bridge, Professor Stevens found another pothole arch. A -mile and a half north of the bridge is stop 7, where attention is called -in the booklet to the vast area of “petrified dunes” east of the road, -which are simply dunelike exposures of the crossbedded Navajo Sandstone -formed originally by the cementation of a vast area of sand dunes. My -view of these was taken about 1 mile beyond the stop (fig. 32). - - [Illustration: BALANCED ROCKS ON SOUTH WALL OF PARK AVENUE, at south - end of trail. (Fig. 28)] - - [Illustration: COURTHOUSE TOWERS, viewed to the northwest from point - on park road about three-fourths of a mile northeast of the south - end of Park Avenue trail. Sandstone towers are Slick Rock Member - resting on Dewey Bridge Member, which also forms foreground. Three - Gossips at upper left, Sheep Rock just beyond. The Organ and Tower - of Babel are on right. (Fig. 29)] - - [Illustration: THE THREE GOSSIPS, shown at upper left of figure 29. - (Fig. 30)] - - [Illustration: SHEEP ROCK, shown on center-left skyline in figure - 29. (Fig. 31)] - -West of the road between the petrified dunes and The Windows section, -the Entrada Sandstone, particularly the Dewey Bridge Member, has been -weathered into grotesque spires and pinnacles resembling the so-called -“hoodoos and goblins” in Goblin Valley State Park, just north of -Hanksville, Utah. Typical examples of “hoodoos and goblins” are shown in -figure 33 (near stop 8). It seems reasonable to assume that some of -these spires are the skeletal remains of former arch abutments. From -here may be seen North and South Windows and Turret Arch on the skyline -to the northeast (figs. 37-40). - - [Illustration: PETRIFIED SAND DUNES, looking northeast from park - road 2.7 miles north of Courthouse Wash. The Navajo Sandstone was - once a huge sandpile of dunes laid down by winds during an arid - interval, so it is interesting to note that the irregularly - weathered sandstone once again resembles a pile of crossbedded - dunes. See also figure 35. (Fig. 32)] - - [Illustration: “HOODOOS AND GOBLINS,” weathered from Dewey Bridge - Member, viewed northwest from park road about 2½ miles north of - Courthouse Wash. (Fig. 33)] - - - The Windows Section - -The Windows section, one of the most beautiful parts of the park, once -was the only readily accessible part of the former monument and is still -the only collection of arches seen by many visitors who either do not -have or do not take time to travel farther north. All the arches and -erosion forms are on or near a high crest called Elephant Butte (Dane, -1935, p. 126, 127), which separates Salt Valley from the Courthouse -syncline. The ridge also marks the south edge of several minor -anticlines and synclines termed by Dane the “Elephant Butte folds.” - - [Illustration: EYE OF THE WHALE, one of several arches in Herdina - Park, just south of jeep trail about 2 miles northwest of Balanced - Rock. Cut in Slick Rock Member. Front opening is 60 feet wide and 27 - feet high, but back opening is only 35 feet wide and 11 feet high. - Photograph by Professor Dale J. Stevens, Brigham Young University. - (Fig. 34)] - -Guarding the approach to The Windows section is Balanced Rock (stop 9). -As shown in the frontispiece, it is accompanied on the right by another -balanced rock and a third one may be seen in the distance. The original -route to The Windows section, pioneered by Goulding, passed just north -of Balanced Rock. Traces of the old road between here and the Garden of -Eden parking area are still visible but no longer used. To the west, -however, a part of the old road is the starting point of a jeep trail -leading northwestward through Herdina Park to a point near Klondike -Bluffs, where it joins the dirt road in Salt Valley (fig. 1). Visitors -having four-wheel-drive vehicles may wish to drive at least as far as -Eye of The Whale (fig. 34), which is about 2 miles northwest of Balanced -Rock. There are several picnic tables at the beginning of this jeep -trail, but no water. - - [Illustration: INTRICATE CROSSBEDS IN NAVAJO SANDSTONE, on north - side of road between Garden of Eden and Cove of Caves. Red crest is - basal part of Dewey Bridge Member. (Fig. 35)] - -Just beyond Balanced Rock, a branch paved road turns eastward 2½ miles -to the main parking lots in The Windows section. Between the Garden of -Eden (stop 13) and Cove of Caves are spectacular exposures of the Navajo -Sandstone showing the crossbedding typical of the original dunes (fig. -35). Just east of the crossbedded Navajo Sandstone, shown in figure 35, -we pass Cove Arch and Cove of Caves (stop 10) on the north side of the -road (fig. 36). - -Just around the curve east of Cove of Caves is the first of two parking -lots (stop 11) forming a one-way loop at the end of this branch of the -road. From the loop may be seen the greatest concentration of readily -accessible arches in the park, all of which are roofed by the Slick Rock -Member and floored by the Dewey Bridge Member. Let us take the short -paved trail from the upper lot to the southeast, where we come first to -North Window (fig. 37). If we walk through this arch and climb the rock -beyond (fig. 37 caption), we see one of the best views in the park (fig. -38). A short walk south of North Window brings us to South Window (fig. -39). The other side of this arch may be reached either by walking around -the nearby southeast end of the fin or by walking through North Window. -A short walk to the southwest brings us to Turret Arch—the one seen -through North Window in figure 38. Figure 40 was taken from the -southwest side of Turret Arch, viewed northeastward toward South Window, -one corner of which appears at the left. Both North and South Windows -may be seen in one photograph taken from points near Turret Arch. - - [Illustration: COVE ARCH AND COVE OF CAVES, on north side of road - just west of Double Arch and Parade of Elephants. Arch at left and - three of the caves on right are roofed by Slick Rock Member and - floored by Dewey Bridge Member. Arch is 48½ feet wide and 34 feet - high. In time the caves will eat through the 30-foot-thick fin and - become arches. Note sharp contact between Dewey Bridge Member and - Navajo Sandstone. (Fig. 36)] - - [Illustration: NORTH WINDOW, viewed to the northeast. Large rock - seemingly partly blocking left end of arch actually is the southeast - end of a fin some 50 feet or more beyond the arch, from which figure - 38 was taken. Arch is 93 feet wide and 51 feet high. (Fig. 37)] - -From the lower parking lot (stop 12), a short walk by paved trail takes -us to spectacular Double Arch, shown in figure 17. This arch is visible -from the parking lot but is best seen and photographed from at or near -the end of the trail. Looking westward from near the trail’s end, we see -the Parade of Elephants, shown in figure 41. This feature is described -on pages 16 and 17 of “The Guide to an Auto Tour of Arches National -Park” as “whimsical stone statuary resembling a circus pachyderm parade. -With tail in trunk, the elephants rumble toward you along a sandstone -roadway.” - -Ribbon Arch, on the north side of Elephant Butte, is one of the most -delicate ones in the park (fig. 1). Although it is 50 feet wide and 55 -feet high, the rock span is only 1½ feet wide and 1 foot thick. - -On the way back to the intersection with the main park road, we pass -stop 14, from which may be seen Pothole Arch (fig. 18). One and one-half -miles north of the intersection with the main road is the Panorama Point -parking area (stop 15), which affords fine distant views of Salt and -Cache Valleys and points beyond. A roadside exhibit portrays the gradual -development of the Salt Valley anticline, which supplements my -description on pages 27-32. A parking space a short distance farther -down the hill (stop 16) provides good distant views of the Fiery -Furnace. I tried several telephoto shots from this viewpoint, but -preferred my closeup views, such as the one shown in figure 44. - - [Illustration: LOOKING SOUTHWESTWARD THROUGH NORTH WINDOW, from fin - shown beyond left side of North Window in figure 37. Turret Arch - (fig. 40) is seen at right middle ground, south rim of Moab Valley - to left of arch, Colorado River canyon forms left skyline. (Fig. - 38)] - - [Illustration: SOUTH WINDOW, viewed toward northeast. Arch is 105 - feet wide and 66 feet high. See text. (Fig. 39)] - - - Delicate Arch Area - -Two and a half miles northeast of the road intersection near Balanced -Rock, a gravelled side road leads northeastward to several points of -considerable interest. The photograph in figure 11 was taken from this -side road about half a mile northeast of the intersection. About 2 miles -to the northeast, just beyond Salt Valley Wash, is a parking area (stop -17) at the beginning of the trail past Wolfe’s Bar-DX Ranch (fig. 3) to -famed Delicate Arch, which is featured on the front cover. Although the -trail to the arch is only 1½ miles long, it crosses several hills at the -outset, then climbs 500 feet, mostly on bare Entrada Sandstone, so is -considered quite strenuous, particularly in hot weather. The Park -Service advises hikers to carry water. The Walt Disney crew, cameras, -gear, cougars, and all climbed this trail in the hottest part of the -summer of 1971 (see p. 16), while my wife and I were working in the -vicinity. Visitors who do not wish to make the hike may get a distant -view of Delicate Arch by driving to a parking area (stop 18) 1.3 miles -farther east. - - [Illustration: TURRET ARCH, viewed northeast toward South Window, - part of which is visible on left. Small opening on right is visible - also in figure 38. Largest arch is 39 feet wide and 64 feet high; - smaller one is 12 feet wide and 13 feet high. A still smaller one, - not visible in the photograph, is 8 feet wide and only 4½ feet high. - (Fig. 40)] - - [Illustration: PARADE OF ELEPHANTS, viewed west from end of trail to - Double Arch. Two elephants are on right, one on left. (Fig. 41)] - -After leaving Wolfe’s Ranch, the trail to Delicate Arch crosses Salt -Wash on a suspension foot bridge (fig. 42). Just beyond the bridge, a -short walk to the left (north) leads to the Ute petroglyphs shown in the -lower photograph of figure 2. The most difficult part of the trail, on -bare sandstone, is marked by cairns of stones placed at sufficient -intervals to keep hikers from losing the barely visible trail. When the -summit finally is reached and the last corner rounded, one suddenly sees -perhaps the most sublime view in the park—famed Delicate Arch, framing -part of the La Sal Mountains beyond (fig. 43). This graceful arch and -mighty Landscape Arch (fig. 53) were considered to be in serious -jeopardy during the era of sonic booms, but hopefully this danger now is -past. (See p. 16-17.) - -It may be of interest to shutterbugs that professional photographer Hal -Rumel lugged an 8- × 10-inch camera plus a heavy tripod and accessories -up the steep trail to get the excellent photograph of Delicate Arch -shown in figure 43. The late afternoon sun intensified the red somewhat, -but my shots made earlier in the day using both 4- × 5-inch and 35-mm -equipment resulted in unwanted shadows, even though the salmon color of -the Slick Rock Member was more nearly normal. - -After leaving the junction with the side road, the main park road -traverses slices of vertical strata squeezed between faults along the -north side of Salt Valley, then gradually climbs out of the valley for -about 2 miles to a parking area (stop 19), from which good views are had -of the southeast end of Salt Valley and of the grabens in the west end -of Cache Valley. (See fig. 11.) - - [Illustration: Petroglyph figure] - - [Illustration: SUSPENSION FOOT BRIDGE ACROSS SALT WASH, in front of - Wolfe’s cabin at beginning of Delicate Arch trail. (Fig. 42)] - - [Illustration: DELICATE ARCH, from end of trail 1½ miles above - Wolfe’s Ranch. The opening is 33 feet wide and 45 feet high. The - left abutment is only 5 feet wide at the narrowest point. The arch - is carved near the top of the Slick Rock Member, and the top of the - span, 19 feet thick, is capped by a few feet of the more resistant - Moab Member, as is Broken Arch (fig. 16). Photograph by Hal Rumel, - Salt Lake City. (Fig. 43)] - - - Fiery Furnace - -About half a mile farther uphill is a parking area for viewing the -southeastern part of the Fiery Furnace (stop 20), a vast array of -towering fins and pinnacles of the reddish Slick Rock Member separated -by narrow slots, vaguely resembling flames shooting skyward. The view of -the Fiery Furnace in figure 44 was taken about 1 mile farther up the -hill. It is not difficult to get lost among this myriad of fins and -narrow slots, so ranger-guided tours are conducted during the summer. - -About 1 mile farther northwest is a parking area (stop 23) from which a -short walk to the north end of Fiery Furnace leads to a narrow slot -between high fins (fig. 45), along which a short sandy trail leads to a -recess along the southwest wall containing Sand Dune Arch (fig. 46). -This hidden arch receives sunshine only near the middle of the day and -is a delightful, shady place to rest. - -From the entrance to the slot leading to Sand Dune Arch, a trail goes -half a mile north across an open field to Broken Arch, shown in figure -16. This field, which separates the Fiery Furnace and Devils Garden -areas, is seen from the air in figure 12. - - [Illustration: Petroglyph figure] - - [Illustration: FIERY FURNACE, viewed northwest along park road about - 1 mile northwest from stop 20. Fins and spires are of the jointed - Slick Rock Member (fig. 12), but the top of the Dewey Bridge Member - is seen to the right of the curve in the road. (Fig. 44)] - - [Illustration: TRAIL TO SAND DUNE ARCH, looking northwest away from - arch, between towering fins of Slick Rock Member, at northwest end - of Fiery Furnace. Southeast end of Devils Garden in distance. (Fig. - 45)] - - [Illustration: SAND DUNE ARCH, in recess along southwest wall of - narrow slot shown in figure 45. Slick Rock Member. (Fig. 46)] - - - Salt Valley and Klondike Bluffs - -Before proceeding to the end of the paved road, let us take an -unimproved side road, which turns south about a third of a mile beyond -the last stop, in order to see more of Salt Valley and to visit Klondike -Bluffs in the northwestern part of the park. After descending 2.3 miles -of winding road we reach the normally dry bed of Salt Valley Wash, and -turn abruptly to the northwest. For the next three-fourths of a mile the -“road” is simply two tracks in the loose, sandy bed of the wash, which -obviously should not be travelled when flooded or when there is even a -hint of rain. In dry weather, however, this road may be travelled by -ordinary passenger car. This stretch of the wash cuts through an -intruded block of the Paradox Member of the Hermosa Formation consisting -mainly of gray and brown gypsum, the common salt having been dissolved -out by ground water. Such an intrusive block of salt-bearing rock is -known to geologists as a diapir—not to be confused with the garment -(diaper) worn by infants. - -From here on the road traverses a rather uninteresting stretch of valley -north of Salt Valley Wash. Eleven miles from the starting point, the -road reaches an intersection from which a side road leads southwestward -three-fourths of a mile to a parking area at the foot of Klondike -Bluffs, which form the south side of Salt Valley. From here, one may -make a strenuous hike over a primitive trail about 1½ miles long to -beautiful Tower Arch (fig. 47). - -The valley road continues northwestward from the intersection to and -beyond the northwest end of the park and connects with roads to Crescent -Junction, Thompson, and the Yellow Cat mining district, north of the -park (p. 14). - -Let us return to the paved road and continue our tour of the park. - - - Devils Garden - -Turning left (northwest) at the intersection with the paved park road, -we enter Devils Garden—another large maze of towering red fins separated -by narrow slots, which resembles the Fiery Furnace. After a third of a -mile, we reach stop 24 and walk 100 feet or more to the north for a good -view of Skyline Arch (fig. 48). This arch is very appropriately named, -as it forms the skyline viewed either from the road on the south or from -the campground on the north, from points south of the amphitheater. Less -well known is the fact that Skyline Arch is clearly visible to the naked -eye or through binoculars from stretches of Highway I-70 (or old U.S. -Highways 6 and 50) about 11 miles to the north. Most arches and other -erosion forms do not change appearance much from day to day or year to -year, but some, like “Baby Arch” (fig. 15), show evidence of relatively -recent origin. In November 1940 (Abbey, 1971, p. 42) Skyline Arch -suddenly doubled in size by the fall of a large rock that occupied what -is now the northwest half of the arch. Photographs taken before and -after this event appear on pages 24 and 25 of the road guide and also in -the museum at the Visitor Center. - - [Illustration: TOWER ARCH, on Klondike Bluffs, viewed eastward. Arch - is in Slick Rock Member but tower on left, after which arch was - named, is capped by a protective layer of the resistant Moab Member. - Opening is 88 feet wide and 43 feet high. Photograph by Robert D. - Miller. (Fig. 47)] - - [Illustration: SKYLINE ARCH, viewed north from point about 100 feet - north of stop 24, in Slick Rock Member. Although fins are vertical, - note that the strata seem to dip about 15° to the right, although - the actual dip is to the northeast. (See fig. 50.) (Fig. 48)] - -Another half mile brings us to a one-way (to right) loop at the end of -the park road. Just beyond the beginning of the loop is a parking lot -and very attractive picnic area containing several picnic tables shaded -by piñon pines at the foot of a towering red fin of the Slick Rock -Member. Just north of this picnic ground, a paved side road leads -eastward into a truly beautiful, well-equipped campground comprising -both back-in and drive-through campsites for trailers, campers, or -tents; three pairs of modern restrooms, hydrants, and drinking -fountains; and an amphitheater, where illustrated campfire talks are -given nightly during the summer. The east end of the campground is shown -in figure 49. - - [Illustration: CAMPGROUND IN DEVILS GARDEN, viewed northwestward - across turn-around at southeastern end. (Fig. 49)] - -Devils Garden in general and the campground in particular are on the -crest of a ridge separating Salt Valley to the southwest from the Sagers -Wash syncline to the northeast, which lies north of Yellow Cat Flat and -north of the area shown in figure 1. From the higher parts of the -campground striking views are to be had toward the north and northeast, -particularly late in the afternoon, as shown in figure 50. - - [Illustration: VIEW NORTH FROM CAMPGROUND, in late afternoon. - Reddish Slick Rock Member capped by light-colored Moab Member are - seen dipping northeastward toward Sagers Wash syncline. Book Cliffs, - north of Thompson, are 16 miles north on left skyline. (Fig. 50)] - -In about the middle of the one-way loop at the end of the park road is a -well that supplies water to the campground from early in the spring -until the return of freezing weather late in the fall. The well, which -was drilled in 1962 to a depth of 900 feet, obtains a small amount of -water from the Wingate Sandstone. No water was found in the overlying -Navajo and Entrada Sandstones because of the pronounced dip of the rocks -toward the northeast, which allows any water in these rocks to drain -northeastward (Ted Arnow, written commun., 1963). Water from this well -is pumped to a steel tank in a high part of the campground, whence it -flows by gravity to the three sets of restrooms. - - [Illustration: SOUTHEASTERN PART OF DEVILS GARDEN TRAIL, viewed - northwestward. Narrow slot between fins of Slick Rock Member - indicates local spacing of joints. (Fig. 51)] - -At the northwest end of the one-way loop is a large parking area for use -by people hiking the Devils Garden trail. This trail leads to seven of -the most interesting arches in the park, all of which are in the Slick -Rock Member, and there are many more farther to the northwest. The -approximate distances to the seven arches are given in the paragraphs -that follow. The trail is paved for about 1 mile as far as Landscape -Arch (fig. 53), but from there to Double O Arch (fig. 56) the trail is -primitive, and the Park Service recommends rubber soles as part of the -trail is on bare sandstone. For these reasons, many visitors hike only -as far as Landscape Arch. - - [Illustration: PINE TREE ARCH, viewed northeastward. Opening is 46 - feet wide and 48 feet high. Fin is 30 feet thick. (Fig. 52)] - -Much of the trail, particularly the first part, lies in a narrow slot -between fins of the Slick Rock Member, as shown in figure 51. After -about half a mile, a side trail to the north leads to a Y, the -right-hand fork of which goes to Tunnel Arch (fig. 14). The left-hand -fork leads to Pine Tree Arch, obviously named for the piñon pine framed -by this arch (fig. 52). - -At the end of the improved part of the trail, we reach Landscape Arch -(fig. 53), claimed by the Park Service to be the longest known natural -arch in the world. According to Ouellette (1958) it is 291 feet long and -118 feet high, but Professor Stevens’ measurements indicate it to be 287 -feet long and 106 feet high. At its thinnest point on the right, the -span is only 11 feet wide and 11 feet thick. In 1958 three young men -made what was claimed to be the second known ascent of Landscape Arch, -using ropes and other climbing gear, after which they walked across -(Ouellette, 1958). This crossing was made with the permission of a park -ranger, but such permission is no longer given, for the safety of both -the arch and of would-be climbers. - -Wall Arch is about a quarter of a mile beyond the end of the improved -part of the trail, and another three-fourths mile brings us to Navajo -Arch (fig. 54) and Partition Arch (fig. 55). A distant view of Partition -Arch may be had just before reaching Landscape Arch. Part of the -remaining trail to Double O Arch (fig. 56) is on the top of a low -sandstone fin, in part between somewhat higher fins and in part above -lower slots. - - [Illustration: LANDSCAPE ARCH, viewed southwestward from near end of - improved part of Devils Garden trail. Note that ground beneath arch - is covered by slope wash and near the middle with what appears to be - a small landslide. Slick Rock Member here is more nearly buff than - salmon colored, because of a smaller content of iron oxide. Fresh - breaks and angular blocks of stone at right abutment indicate - relatively recent rock falls. See text for size. (Fig. 53)] - - [Illustration: NAVAJO ARCH, viewed northeastward from a branch of - Devils Garden trail. One of few arches having a flat soil-covered - floor. Opening is 40½ feet wide. Photograph by National Park - Service. (Fig. 54)] - -Beautiful Double O Arch (fig. 56) is at the end of the Devils Garden -trail about 2½ miles northwest of the trailhead. About half a mile -northwest of the trail’s end is a prominent landmark called Dark Angel -(fig. 57), which is visible in figure 12 and from the unimproved road in -Salt Valley. - - [Illustration: PARTITION ARCH, viewed southwestward from near Devils - Garden trail. Arch frames part of south wall of Salt Valley and, on - skyline, mesas south of Moab Valley. Opening is 27½ feet wide and 26 - feet high. A smaller opening to the right measures 8½ feet wide and - 8 feet high. Photograph by Dawn E. Reed. (Fig. 55)] - - [Illustration: DOUBLE O ARCH, viewed about north from northwest end - of Devils Garden trail. Large opening is 71 feet wide and 45 feet - high; small one at lower left is 21 feet wide and 11 feet high. Span - of large opening is 11 feet wide and 6 feet thick. Arch frames a - part of the Book Cliffs about 14 miles to the north. Photograph by - Hildegard Hamilton, Flagstaff, Ariz. (Fig. 56)] - - [Illustration: DARK ANGEL, a shaft of the Slick Rock Member that is - an erosional remnant of a once high, narrow fin. About one-half mile - northwest of Double O Arch. Photograph by National Park Service. - (Fig. 57)] - - [Illustration: “INDIAN-HEAD ARCH,” in upper Devils Garden. Arch and - most of head are in Slick Rock Member, top of head is basal part of - Moab Member. Opening is 4 feet wide and 4½ feet high. Photograph by - Professor Dale J. Stevens, Brigham Young University. (Fig. 58)] - - [Illustration: GEOLOGIC TIME SPIRAL, showing the sequence, names, - and ages of the geologic eras, periods, and epochs, and the - evolution of plant and animal life on land and in the sea. The - primitive animals that evolved in the sea during the vast - Precambrian Era left few traces in the rocks because they had not - developed hard parts, such as shells, but hard shell or skeletal - parts became abundant during and after the Paleozoic Era. (Fig. 59)] - - - - - GEOLOGIC TIME - The Age of the Earth - - The Earth is very old—4.5 billion years or more according to recent - estimates. Most of the evidence for an ancient Earth is contained in - the rocks that form the Earth’s crust. The rock layers - themselves—like pages in a long and complicated history—record the - surface-shaping events of the past, and buried within them are - traces of life—the plants and animals that evolved from organic - structures that existed perhaps 3 billion years ago. - - Also contained in rocks once molten are radioactive elements whose - isotopes provide Earth scientists with an atomic clock. Within these - rocks, “parent” isotopes decay at a predictable rate to form - “daughter” isotopes. By determining the relative amounts of parent - and daughter isotopes, the age of these rocks can be calculated. - - Thus, the results of studies of rock layers (stratigraphy), and of - fossils (paleontology), coupled with the ages of certain rocks as - measured by atomic clocks (geochronology), attest to a very old - Earth! - -Professor Stevens found 14 arches in what he called upper Devils Garden, -northwest of Double O Arch, and two arches in the northwesternmost -extension of the park known as Eagle Park (fig. 1). One of the unnamed -arches in upper Devils Garden is shown in figure 58. I am tentatively -calling it “Indian-Head Arch,” because of the rather obvious -resemblance. - -This ends our journey through Arches National Park, but there remains -for consideration a summary of the principal geologic events leading to -the formation of this beautiful part of the Colorado Plateau and a brief -comparison with the geology of other national parks and monuments on the -Plateau. - - - - - Summary of Geologic History - - -Having finished our geologic trip through Arches National Park, let us -see how the arches and other features fit into the bigger scheme of -things—the geologic age and events of the Earth as a whole, as depicted -in figure 59. As shown in figure 4, the rock strata still preserved in -the park range in age from Pennsylvanian to Cretaceous, or from about -300 million to 100 million years old—a span of about 200 million years. -This seems an incredibly long time, until one notes that the earth is -some 4.5 billion years old, and that our rock pile is but 1/23 or 4½ -percent of the age of the Earth as a whole. Thus, in figure 59, the -rocks exposed in the park occupy only about the left half of the top -whorl of the spiral. - -But this is not the whole story. As indicated earlier, younger Mesozoic -and Tertiary rocks more than 1 mile thick that once covered the area -have been carried away by erosion, and if we include these the span is -increased to about 250 million years, or nearly a full whorl of the -spiral. - -Deep tests for oil and gas tell us that much older rocks underlie the -area, and we have seen that some of these played a part in shaping the -park we see today. In addition to the Precambrian igneous and -metamorphic rocks, there is about 2,000 feet of Paleozoic sedimentary -rocks older than the Pennsylvanian Paradox Member of the Hermosa -Formation, most of which was laid down in ancient seas. This includes -strata of Cambrian, Ordovician, Devonian, Mississippian, and -Pennsylvanian ages (fig. 59). There are some gaps in the rock record -caused by temporary emergence of the land above sea level and erosion of -the land surface before the land again subsided below sea level so that -deposition could resume. Silurian rocks are absent, presumably because, -here, the Silurian Period was dominated by erosion rather than -deposition. - -While Pennsylvanian and Permian rocks were being laid down in and -southwest of the park, a large area to the northeast, called by -geologists the Uncompahgre Highland (because it occupied the same -general area as part of the present Uncompahgre Plateau), rose slowly -above sea level. Whatever Paleozoic rocks were on this rising land plus -part of the underlying Precambrian rocks were eroded and carried by -streams into deep basins to the northeast and southwest. Thus, while -some marine or near-shore deposits were being laid down in and south of -the park, thousands of feet of red beds were being laid down by streams -between the park and what is now the Uncompahgre Plateau. During part of -Middle Pennsylvanian time, a large area, including the park, known as -the Paradox basin, was alternately connected to or cut off from the sea, -so that the water was evaporated during cutoff periods and replenished -during periods when connection with the sea resumed. In these huge -evaporation basins were deposited the salt and gypsum plus some potash -salts and shale that now make up the Paradox Member of the Hermosa -Formation. - -Arches National Park contains four northwesterly trending major -folds—the Salt Valley and Cache Valley salt anticlines, the Courthouse -syncline, and the faulted Moab-Seven Mile anticline, which forms the -southwestern border. How these folds were formed was explained on pages -27-32. The history of their growth, however, was a long one that began -about 300 million years ago in the Pennsylvanian and ended about 50 -million years ago in the early Tertiary. The growth of these folds -occurred in two stages. The first stage, which involved the development -of the salt cores of the anticlines, ended in the Jurassic with the -beginning of Morrison time; the second stage, which involved additional -folding that intensified the magnitude and shape of existing folds, -occurred in the early Tertiary and was followed later by collapse of the -salt anticlines. The formation and collapse of the Salt Valley and Cache -Valley anticlines was accompanied by pronounced jointing (fig. 12), -which allowed differential erosion to produce the tall fins in which the -arches were formed. - -The old Uncompahgre Highland continued to shed debris into the bordering -basins until Triassic time, when it began to be covered by a veneer of -red sandstone and siltstone of the Chinle Formation (Lohman, 1965). The -area remained above sea level during the Triassic Period and most, if -not all, of the Jurassic Period, although the Jurassic Carmel Formation -was laid down in a sea that lay just to the west. - -Late in the Cretaceous Period a large part of Central and Southeastern -United States, including the eastern half of Utah, sank beneath the sea -and received thousands of feet of mud, silt, and some sand that later -compacted into the Mancos Shale. This formation, as well as all younger -and some older strata, has long since been eroded from most of the park -area, but a little of the Mancos is preserved in the Cache Valley graben -(fig. 11), and the entire Mancos Shale and younger rocks are present in -adjacent areas, such as the Book Cliffs north of Green River, Crescent -Junction, and Cisco (figs. 7, 50, 56). - -The land rose above the sea at about the close of the Cretaceous and has -remained above ever since, although inland basins and lakes received -sediment during parts of the Tertiary Period. Compressive forces in the -Earth’s crust produced some gentle folding of the strata at the close of -the Cretaceous, but more pronounced folding and some faulting occurred -during the Eocene Epoch, when most of the Rocky Mountains took form. -During the Miocene Epoch igneous rock welled up into older rocks to form -the cores of the nearby La Sal, Abajo, and Henry Mountains. Additional -uplift and some folding occurred in the Pliocene and Pleistocene Epochs. - -Much of the course of the Colorado River was established during the -Miocene Epoch, with some additional adjustments in the late Pliocene and -early Pleistocene Epochs (Hunt, C. B., 1969, p. 67). Erosion during much -of the Tertiary Period and all of the Quaternary Period plus some -sagging and breaking of the crest of the anticlines, brought on by -solution and lateral squeezing of salt beds beneath the Moab-Seven Mile, -Salt Valley, and Cache Valley anticlines, combined to produce the -landscape as we now see it. - -The Precambrian rocks beneath the area are about 1.5 billion years old; -so an enormous span of time is represented by the rocks and events in -and beneath Canyonlands National Park. - -If we consider the geologic formations that make up the national parks -(N.P.), national monuments (N.M.) (excluding small historical or -archaeological ones), Monument Valley, San Rafael Swell, and Glen Canyon -National Recreation Area, all in the Colorado Plateau, it becomes -apparent that certain formations or groups of formations play starring -roles in some parks or monuments, some play supporting roles, and in a -few places the entire cast of rocks gets about equal billing. Let us -compare them and see how and where they fit into the “Geologic Time -Spiral” (fig. 59). - -Dinosaur N.M., with exposed rocks ranging in age from Precambrian to -Cretaceous, covers the greatest time span (nearly 2 billion years), but -has one unit—the Jurassic Morrison Formation—in the starring role, for -this unit contains the many dinosaur fossils that give the monument its -name and fame, although there are several older units in supporting -roles. Grand Canyon N.P. and N.M. are next, with rocks ranging in age -from Precambrian through Permian (excluding the Quaternary lava flows in -the N.M.), but here there is truly a team effort, for the entire cast -gets about equal billing. Canyonlands N.P. stands third in this -category, with rocks ranging from Pennsylvanian to Jurassic, but we -would have to give top billing to the Permian Cedar Mesa Sandstone -Member of the Cutler Formation, from which The Needles, The Grabens, and -most of the arches were sculptured; the Triassic Wingate Sandstone and -the Triassic(?) Kayenta Formation get second billing for their roles in -forming and preserving Island in the Sky and other high mesas. - -Now let us consider other areas with only one or few players in the -cast, beginning at the bottom of the time spiral. Black Canyon of the -Gunnison N.M., cut entirely in rocks of early Precambrian age with only -a veneer of much younger rocks, obviously has but one star in its cast. -Colorado N.M. contains rocks ranging from Precambrian to -Cretaceous—equal to Dinosaur in this respect, but Colorado is unique in -that all the rocks of the long Paleozoic Era and some others are missing -from the cast; of those that remain, the Triassic Wingate and the -Triassic(?) Kayenta are the stars, with strong support from the Jurassic -Entrada Sandstone. - -All the bridges in Natural Bridges N.M. were carved from the Permian -Cedar Mesa Sandstone Member of the Cutler Formation, also one of the -stars in Canyonlands N.P. In Canyon de Chelly (pronounced dee shay) N.M. -and Monument Valley (neither a national park nor a national monument, as -it is owned and administered by the Navajo Tribe), the De Chelly -Sandstone Member of the Cutler Formation—a Permian member younger than -the Cedar Mesa—plays the starring role. - -Wupatki N.M. near Flagstaff, Ariz., stars the Triassic Moenkopi -Formation. Petrified Forest N.P. (which now includes part of the Painted -Desert) has but one star—the Triassic Chinle Formation, in which are -found many petrified logs and stumps of ancient trees. The -Triassic-Jurassic Glen Canyon Group (fig. 19), which includes the -Triassic Wingate Sandstone, the Triassic(?) Kayenta Formation, and the -Triassic(?)-Jurassic Navajo Sandstone, receives top billing in recently -enlarged Capitol Reef N.P., but the Triassic Moenkopi and Chinle -Formations enjoy supporting roles. - -The Triassic(?)-Jurassic Navajo Sandstone, which has a supporting role -in Arches N.P., is the undisputed star of Zion N.P., Rainbow Bridge -N.M., and Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, despite the fact that -the latter is the type locality of the entire Glen Canyon Group. The -Navajo also forms the impressive reef at the east edge of the beautiful -San Rafael Swell, a dome, or closed anticline, now crossed by Highway -I-70 between Green River and Fremont Junction, Utah. - -As we journey upward in the time spiral (fig. 59), we come to the -Jurassic Entrada Sandstone, which stars in Arches N.P., with help from -the underlying Navajo Sandstone, and a supporting cast of both older and -younger rocks. The Entrada also forms the grotesque erosion forms called -“hoodoos and goblins” in Goblin Valley State Park, north of Hanksville, -Utah. - -Moving ever upward in the spiral, we come to the Cretaceous—the age of -the starring Mesaverde Group, in which the caves of Mesaverde N.P. were -formed, and which now house beautifully preserved ruins once occupied by -the Anasazi, the same ancient people who once dwelt in Arches N.P. and -nearby areas. - -This brings us up to the Tertiary Period, during the early part of which -the pink limestones and shales of the Paleocene and Eocene Wasatch -Formation were laid down in inland basins. Beautifully sculptured -cliffs, pinnacles, and caves of the Wasatch star in Bryce Canyon N.P. -and in nearby Cedar Breaks N.M. This concludes our climb up the time -spiral, except for Quaternary volcanoes and some older volcanic features -at Sunset Crater N.M., near Flagstaff, Ariz. - -Thus, one way or another, many rock units formed during the last couple -of billion years have performed on the stage of the Colorado Plateau -and, hamlike, still lurk in the wings eagerly awaiting your applause to -recall them to the footlights. Don’t let them down—visit and enjoy the -national parks and monuments of the Plateau, for they probably are the -greatest collection of scenic wonderlands in the world. - - - - - Additional Reading - - -Many reports covering various aspects of the area have been cited in the -text by author and year, and these plus a few additional ones are listed -in “Selected References.” A few works of general or special interest -should be mentioned, however. - -Between 1926 and 1929 the entire area now included in the park was -mapped geologically in classic reports by Dane (1935) and by McKnight -(1940). These men and their field assistants mapped the area by use of -the plane-table and telescopic alidade without benefit of modern -topographic maps or aerial photographs, except for topographic maps of -the narrow stretch along the Colorado River mapped under the direction -of Herron (1917). Only small sections could be reached by automobile, so -nearly all the area was traversed using horses and mules or by hiking. -This work plus mapping done in nearby areas to the south and to the -north (Stokes, 1952) during the uranium boom of the mid-fifties was used -by Williams (1964) in compiling a geologic map of the Moab quadrangle at -a scale of 1:250,000. - -Several early reports on the Colorado River and its potential -utilization contain a wealth of information and many fine photographs, -including two by La Rue (1916, 1925) and one by Follansbee (1929). - -You may be interested in brief accounts of the geology of other national -parks and monuments, or other areas of special interest, such as the -reports on the Uinta Mountains by Hansen (1969), Mount Rainier by -Crandell (1969), Yellowstone National Park by Keefer (1971), and ones by -me on Colorado National Monument (Lohman, 1965) and Canyonlands National -Park (1974). - -For those who wish to learn more about the science of geology, I suggest -the textbook by Gilluly, Waters, and Woodford (1968). - - - - - Acknowledgments - - -I am greatly indebted to Bates Wilson, former Superintendent, and to -former Assistant Superintendent Joe Carithers, for their splendid -cooperation in supplying data and information; to Chuck Budge, former -Chief Ranger; Dave May, Assistant Chief of Interpretation and Resource -Management; Joe Miller, former Maintenance Engineer; Bob Kerr, new -Superintendent; Maxine Newell, Park Historian and member of the staff at -Arches National Park; Jerry Banta, former Park Ranger at Arches; and -Carl Mikesell, Park Ranger at Arches, for their many favors. - -I am grateful to several colleagues and friends for the loan of -photographs, for geologic help and data, and for reviewing this report. -I am also deeply grateful to my wife, Ruth, for accompanying me on all -the fieldwork and for her help and encouragement. - - - - - Selected References - - - Abbey, Edward, 1971, Desert solitaire, a season in the wilderness: New - York, Ballantine Books, 303 p. - Baker, A. A., 1933, Geology and oil possibilities of the Moab - district, Grand and San Juan Counties, Utah: U.S. Geol. Survey - Bull. 841, 95 p. - Baker, Pearl, 1971, The Wild Bunch at Robbers Roost: New York, - Aberlard-Schuman, 224 p. - Beckwith, Frank, 1934, A group of petroglyphs near Moab, Utah: Santa - Fe, N. Mex., El Palacio, v. 36, p. 177-178. - Breed, Jack, 1947, Utah’s arches of stone: Natl. Geog. Mag., p. - 173-192, August. - Case, J. E., and Joesting, H. R., 1972, Regional geophysical - investigations in the central Colorado Plateau: U.S. Geol. - Survey Prof. Paper 736, 34 p. - Cater, F. W., 1970, Geology of the salt anticline region in - southwestern Colorado: U.S. Geol. Survey Prof. Paper 637, 80 - p. - —— 1972, Salt anticlines within the Paradox Basin, _in_ Geologic atlas - of the Rocky Mountain region, United States of America: - Denver, Colo., Rocky Mtn. Assoc. of Geologists, p. 137, 138, - fig. 4. - Cleland, H. F., 1910, North American natural bridges, with a - discussion of their origins: Geol. Soc. America Bull., v. 21, - p. 313-338. - Crandell, D. R., 1969, The geologic story of Mt. Rainier: U.S. Geol. - Survey Bull. 1292, 43 p. - Dane, C. H., 1935, Geology of the Salt Valley anticline and adjacent - areas, Grand County, Utah: U.S. Geol. Survey Bull. 863, 184 p. - Dellenbaugh, F. S., 1902, The romance of the Colorado River: New York, - G. P. Putnam’s Sons, 399 p. [reprinted 1962 by Rio Grande - Press, Chicago, Ill.] - Everhart, W. C., 1972, The National Park Service, Praeger Library of - U.S. Government Departments and Agencies No. 13: New York, - Praeger Publishers, p. i-xii, 1-276. - Follansbee, Robert, 1929, Upper Colorado River and its utilization: - U.S. Geol. Survey Water-Supply Paper 617, 394 p. - Gilluly, James, Waters, A. C., and Woodford, A. O., 1968, Principles - of geology [3d ed.]: San Francisco, W. R. Freeman & Co., 685 - p. - Hansen, W. R., 1969, The geologic story of the Uinta Mountains [with - graphics by John R. Stacy]: U.S. Geol. Survey Bull. 1291, 144 - p. - Herron, W. R., 1917, Profile surveys in the Colorado River Basin in - Wyoming, Utah, Colorado, and New Mexico: U.S. Geol. Survey - Water-Supply Paper 396, 6 p., 43 pls. - Hite, R. J., 1972, Pennsylvanian rocks, _in_ Geologic atlas of the - Rocky Mountain region, United States of America: Denver, - Colo., Rocky Mtn. Assoc. of Geologists, p. 133-137. - Hite, R. J., and Lohman, S. W., 1973, Geologic appraisal of Paradox - basin salt deposits for waste emplacement: U.S. Geol. Survey - open-file report, 75 p. - Hunt, Alice, 1956, Archeology of southeastern Utah, _in_ Geology and - economic deposits of east-central Utah: Salt Lake City, - Intermountain Assoc. of Petroleum Geologists, 7th Ann. Field - Conf., p. 13-18. - Hunt, C. B., 1956, Cenozoic geology of the Colorado Plateau: U.S. - Geol. Survey Prof. Paper 279, 99 p. - —— 1969, Geologic history of the Colorado River, _in_ The Colorado - River region and John Wesley Powell: U.S. Geol. Survey Prof. - Paper 669, p. I-IV, 59-130. - Jennings, J. D., 1970, Canyonlands-Aborigines: Naturalist, v. 21, - Summer, Special Issue no. 2, p. 10-15. - Joesting, H. R., Case, J. E., and Plouff, Donald, 1966, Regional - geophysical investigations of the Moab-Needles area, Utah: - U.S. Geol. Survey Prof. Paper 516-C, 21 p. - Keefer, W. R., 1971, The geologic story of Yellowstone National Park, - illustrated by John R. Stacy: U.S. Geol. Survey Bull. 1347, 92 - p. [1972]. - Lansford, Henry, 1972, Boatman in the desert, a passenger-carrying - sternwheeler in canyon country: “Empire” [magazine of the - Denver Post], Nov. 5, p. 18, 19. - La Rue, E. C., 1916, Colorado River and its utilization: U.S. Geol. - Survey Water-Supply Paper 395, 231 p. - —— 1925, Water power and flood control of Colorado River below Green - River, Utah, with a foreword by Hubert Work, Secretary of the - Interior, p. 1-100. [Appendix A, A report on water supply, by - E. C. La Rue and G. F. Holbrook, p. 101-123; and Appendix B, A - geologic report on the inner gorge of the Grand Canyon of - Colorado River, by R. C. Moore, p. 125-171]: U.S. Geol. Survey - Water-Supply Paper 556, 176 p. - Lohman, S. W., 1965, The geologic story of Colorado National Monument - [with graphics by John R. Stacy]: Fruita, Colo., Colorado and - Black Canyon Natural History Assoc., 56 p. - —— 1974, The geologic story of Canyonlands National Park, with - graphics by John R. Stacy: U.S. Geol. Survey Bull. 1327, 126 - p. - McKnight, E. T., 1940, Geology of area between Green and Colorado - Rivers, Grand and San Juan Counties, Utah: U.S. Geol. Survey - Bull. 908, 147 p. - Ouellette, C. M., 1958, Over the top of Landscape Arch: Desert Mag., - p. 13-16, March. - Pierson, Lloyd, 1960, Arches National Monument, _in_ Geology of the - Paradox basin fold and fault belt: Durango, Colo., Four - Corners Geol. Soc. Guidebook, 3d Ann. Field Conf., p. 17-21. - Schaafsma, Polly, 1971, Rock art of Utah: Cambridge, Mass., Harvard - Univ., Papers of the Peabody Museum of Archaeology and - Ethnology, v. 65, 169 p. - Stacy, J. R., 1962, Shortcut method for the preparation of - shaded-relief illustrations, _in_ Short papers in geology, - hydrology, and topography 1962: U.S. Geol. Survey Prof. Paper - 450-D, p. D164-D165. - Stokes, W. L., 1952, Uranium-vanadium deposits of the Thompsons area, - Grand County, Utah, with emphasis on the origin of carnotite - ores: Utah Geol. and Mineralogical Survey Bull. 46, 51 p., - December. - —— 1970, Canyonlands—Geology: Naturalist, v. 21, Summer, Special Issue - no. 2, p. 3-9. - Walters, H. H., 1956, Pacific Northwest Pipeline—The scenic inch, _in_ - Geology and economic deposits of east-central Utah: Salt Lake - City, Intermountain Assoc. of Petroleum Geologists, p. - 169-170. - Williams, P. L., 1964, Geology, structure, and uranium deposits of the - Moab quadrangle, Colorado and Utah: U.S. Geol. Survey Misc. - Geol. Inv. Map I-360. - Wilson, B. E., 1956, Arches National Monument, _in_ Geology and - economic deposits of east-central Utah: Salt Lake City, - Intermountain Assoc. of Petroleum Geologists, 7th Ann. Field - Conf., p. 50-51. - Wright, J. C., Shawe, D. R., and Lohman, S. W., 1962, Definition of - members of the Jurassic Entrada Sandstone in east-central Utah - and west-central Colorado: Bull. Am. Assoc. Petroleum - Geologists, v. 46, no. 11, p. 2057-2070. - - - [Illustration: Petroglyph figure] - - - - -Footnotes - - -[1]Mrs. Tanner, of Phoenix, Ariz., is the author of an earlier history - of Moab (her hometown). She has completed a revision entitled, “The - Far Country—A Regional History of Moab and La Sal, Utah,” which will - be serialized in the Moab Times-Independent, after which it will be - published. - -[2]For the benefit of visitors from countries in which the metric system - is used, the following conversion factors may be helpful: 1 inch = - 2.54 centimeters, 1 foot = 0.305 meter, 1 mile = 1.609 kilometers, 1 - U.S. gallon = 0.00379 cubic meter. - -[3]Barrier Creek flows through Horseshoe Canyon in the detached unit of - Canyonlands National Park. The canyon walls are adorned by striking - pictographs (Lohman, 1974, fig. 2). “Barrier Canyon style” is named - after the pictographs found in Horseshoe Canyon. - -[4]Plastic-relief maps are no longer available from the U.S. Army Map - Service but may be obtained from the T. N. Hubbard Scientific Co., - Box 105, Northbrook, Ill. 60062. A topographic map at a scale of - 1:250,000 of the Moab quadrangle and similar maps at a scale of - 1:62,500 for the Thompson, Cisco, Moab, and Castle Valley - quadrangles are available from the U.S. Geological Survey, Denver - Distribution Section, Federal Center, Denver, Colo. 80225, from the - Canyonlands Natural History Association at Moab, and from privately - owned shops where maps are sold. Most of the park is covered by the - Thompson and Moab quadrangles. The southern part of the park is - shown also on the Moab 4 NW, Moab 4 NE, and Mt. Waas 3 NW - quadrangles at a scale of 1:24,000. A special topographic map of - Arches National Park at a scale of 1:50,000 is in preparation by the - U.S. Geological Survey. These maps also may be obtained from the - above-listed sources. - -[5]This is numbered stop 1 in the booklet referred to earlier “The Guide - to an Auto Tour of Arches National Park,” and corresponds to the - numeral one on a small sign at the roadside parking place. Some of - the other numbers are given in the pages that follow. - - - - - Index - - - [Italic page numbers indicate major references] - - - A - Page - Abajo Mountains 101 - artifacts 9 - Abbey, Edward 3 - Aborigines, occupation of area 9 - Acknowledgments _105_ - Anasazi people, petroglyphs 10 - Anasazi ruins 9, 103 - Ancestral Colorado River 33 - Anomalies, gravity, Salt Valley 32 - Anticlines, salt 31 - Arches, broken remains 44 - examples _46_ - former abutments 68 - horizontal 44 - how they are formed 42 - natural, defined _40_ - number in the park 40, _41_ - origin and development 37 - pothole 44 - vertical 42, 44 - Artifacts, La Sal and Abajo Mountains 9 - Aspinall, Wayne, Representative 8 - - - B - “Baby Arch” 46, 63, 83 - Balanced Rock 69, 70, 74 - Banta, Jerry 105 - Bar-DX Ranch 12, 13, 14 - “Barrier Canyon style” 10 - Bedding, wavy, Dewey Bridge Member 46 - Beeson, Stib 13 - Beginning of a monument _1_ - Bending of rocks _24_ - Bennett, Wallace F., Senator 8 - Beroni, Pete 14, 15 - Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Monument 102 - Book Cliffs 100 - Breaking of rocks _24_ - Bridge, natural, defined _40_ - Broken Arch 46, 79 - Brown-Stanton expedition, exploration 15 - Bryce Canyon National Park 103 - Budge, Chuck 105 - - - C - Cache Valley 56, 73, 77 - Cache Valley anticline 25, 32, 34, 55, 100, 101 - Cache Valley graben 34, 100 - Campground 86 - water supply 87 - Cane Creek anticline 24 - Canyon de Chelly National Monument 102 - _Canyon King_ 8 - Canyon Lands Section, Colorado Plateau 9, 22 - Canyonlands National Park 3, 9, 15, 102 - Canyonlands Natural History Association 8 - Capitol Reef National Park 103 - Carithers, Joe 105 - Carmel Formation 100 - Cassidy, Butch 12 - Caves, Entrada Sandstone 9 - Cedar Breaks National Monument 103 - Cedar Mesa Sandstone Member, Cutler Formation 22, 102 - Chinle Formation 32, 100, 102, 103 - “Cisco Cutoff” 16 - Civilian Conservation Corps 2 - Cliff dwellers 9 - Climate, desert 35, 51 - wetter, different landscape produced 37 - Collapse, salt anticlines 33, 34 - Color photographs, equipment used 8 - Colorado National Monument 102 - Colorado Plateau, geologic formations included 101 - rock formations 103, 104 - subdivisions 18 - uranium-vanadium mining 14 - Colorado Plateaus Province 18 - Colorado River, course established 101 - nighttime illuminated float trip 16, 52 - Colorado River canyon 35, 51, _52_ - Cores, salt 100 - Corral mine 15 - Courthouse syncline 25, 30, 31, 32, 52, 63, 68, 100 - Courthouse Towers area 25, _63_ - number of arches 41 - Courthouse Wash 2, 3, 18, 35, 63 - Cove Arch 70 - Cove of Caves 70 - Crossbedding, Navajo Sandstone 63, 66, 70 - Cutler Formation 32, 102 - Cedar Mesa Sandstone Member 22 - White Rim Sandstone Member 22 - - - D - Dark Angel 92 - De Chelly Sandstone Member, Cutler Formation 102 - Dead Horse Point 33 - Dedication of the park 8 - Delicate Arch 16, 25, 74, 75, 77 - Delicate Arch area, number of arches 41 - Density, average, Paradox Member 32 - Deposition of rock materials, environments _20_ - Desert varnish 10 - Development of the arches _37_ - Devils Garden 2, 5, 25, 79, _83_, 86 - fins 42 - number of arches 41 - trail 88, 92 - Dewey Bridge 52 - Dewey Bridge Member 46, 63 - Entrada Sandstone, composition 41 - “hoodoos and goblins” 66 - park road cutting 57 - The Windows section 71 - vertical arches 44 - “Dewey Road” 16 - Diapir 83 - Differential erosion 42 - Dinosaur National Monument 101, 102 - Dissimilarity of Arches vs. Canyonlands 23, 24 - Double Arch 2, 46, 72 - Double O Arch 90, 92, 98 - Drainage, Arches National Park 18 - Dry Mesa 5, 56 - - - E - Eagle Park 25, 98 - number of arches 41 - Early dwellers _9_ - Earthquake, rock offset along bedding plane 63 - Egyptian queen, arch resembling 63 - Eisenhower, Dwight D., Mission 66 4 - Elephant Butte 72 - Elephant Butte folds 68 - Elizondo, Emmett 13 - Entrada Sandstone 23, 74, 102, 103 - arches, modes of origin 42 - caves 9 - cut by normal fault 57 - Moab Member 24 - no water found 87 - Environments of deposition _20_ - Erosion 99 - Colorado Plateau _33_ - Evaporation basins 99 - Evaporites 30 - Eye of The Whale 69 - - - F - Facies changes 22 - “Father of the monument,” J. W. Williams 1, 4 - Faults, Cache Valley anticline 34 - Salt Valley anticline 34 - Fiery Furnace 25, 42, 73, _79_, 83 - number of arches 41 - Fins 63, 79 - Float trip, nighttime illuminated, down Colorado River 52 - Folds _24_, 30, 100 - Four-wheel-drive vehicles 69 - Fractures _24_ - Fremont people, occupation of area 9 - pictographs 10 - Frost, prying action 42 - - - G - Garden of Eden 50, 69, 70 - Gas exploration, deep tests 15, 99 - Geographic setting _18_ - Geologic age of rocks in park _98_ - Geologic events forming the Colorado Plateau _98_ - Geologic history, summary _98_ - Geologic Time Spiral 101, 103 - Geology, at the park entrance 57 - Glen Canyon Group 52, 102, 103 - Glen Canyon National Recreation Area 101, 103 - Goblin Valley State Park 66, 103 - Gould, Lawrence M. 1 - Goulding, Harry, first person to drive into The Windows section 2, 69 - Grabens 34 - Grand Canyon National Park and National Monument 102 - Gravity anomalies, Salt Valley 32 - Green River 103 - Ground water 41 - “Guide to an Auto Tour of Arches National Park,” (The) 5, 50, 51, 72 - Gulf of California 33 - - - H - Hastier, (Mrs.) Hazel Wolfe 13 - Headquarters area _57_ - Henry Mountains 101 - Herdina Park 25, 69 - number of arches 41 - Hermosa Formation, Paradox Member 23, 25, 29, 30, 32 - History, early _9_ - geologic, summary _98_ - “Hoodoos and goblins” 66, 103 - Hoover, Herbert, proclamation 1 - Horizontal arches 44 - Horseshoe Canyon, pictographs 10 - Horseshoe Canyon Detached Unit of Canyonlands 23 - Humid regions, subdued rounded landforms 37 - - - I - Igneous rocks 22, 99 - “Indian-Head Arch” 98 - Iron in the rocks 23 - Island in the Sky 102 - - - J - Jeep trail 69, 70 - Johnson, Lyndon B., proclamation 2 - Joints _24_, 34, 100 - - - K - Kayenta Formation 35, 52, 102, 103 - Kerr, Bob 105 - Klondike Bluffs 25, 69, _82_, 83 - number of arches 41 - - - L - La Sal Mountains 22, 63, 77, 101 - artifacts 9 - Lake Mead 33 - Lake Powell 33 - Land forms, formation in the park 33 - Landscape Arch 16, 77, 88 - second known ascent 90 - Larson, Tommy 13 - Lloyd, Sherman P., Representative 8 - Lohman, (Mrs.) Ruth 105 - - - M - Mahan, Russel L. 2 - Mancos Shale 32, 100 - Maxwell, Ross A., investigation of caves 9, 10 - May, David 40, 105 - Melich, Mitchell, Solicitor General 8 - Mesaverde Group 32, 103 - Mesaverde National Park 103 - Metamorphic rocks 22, 99 - Metric unit conversion factors _2_ - Mikesell, Carl 105 - Miller, Joe 105 - Mission 66, presidential and congressional support 4 - Mississippi River sternwheeler replica 8 - Moab, uranium-vanadium mill 14 - Moab bridge 52 - Moab Canyon 15, 18 - Moab fault 26, 57 - Moab Lions Club 1, 8 - “Moab Mail Road” 16 - Moab Member, Entrada Sandstone 24, 35 - Entrada Sandstone, Broken Arch 46 - composition 41 - “Moab panel” 10 - Moab-Spanish Valley anticline 26 - Moab Valley 57 - Moab Valley-Seven Mile anticline 100, 101 - Moenkopi Formation 32, 102, 103 - Monoliths 63 - Monument, beginning _1_ - Monument Valley 101, 102 - Morrison Formation 32, 101 - Morton, Rogers C. B., Secretary of the Interior 8 - Moss, Frank E., Senator 8 - Moss Back Member, Chinle Formation 15 - - - N - National Park Service 8, 12, 40, 75, 90 - Natural Bridges National Monument 3, 37, 40, 102 - Navajo Arch 90 - Navajo Sandstone 24, 35, 52, 103 - canyon floor 63 - crossbedding 63, 66, 70 - park road cutting 57 - water supply 57, 87 - Navajo Tribe 102 - Needles section, The, Canyonlands National Park 16, 102 - Newell, (Mrs.) Maxine 12, 105 - Nixon, Richard M., Congressional Bill 5 - North Window 40, 68, 71 - - - O - Oil exploration 15 - Cane Creek anticline 24 - deep tests 99 - Origin of the arches _37_ - - - P - Pacific Northwest Pipeline 15 - Painted Desert 102 - Panorama Point 73 - Parade of Elephants 72 - Paradox basin 23 - Paradox Member, Hermosa Formation 23, 25, 29, 30, 82, 99 - Hermosa Formation, average density 32 - upward intrusion 34 - Park, a trip through _52_ - dedication 8 - how to see _50_ - improvements 4 - Park Avenue, trail 63 - Park Service. _See_ National Park Service. - Partition Arch 90 - Petrified dunes 63, 66 - Petrified Forest National Park 102 - Petroglyphs, Ute 10, 75 - Pictographs, Fremont people 10 - Pine Tree Arch 90 - Piñon pines 86 - Pipeline scars, Pacific Northwest Pipeline 15 - Plateau, uplift and erosion _33_ - Potash occurrence 15 - Pothole Arch 50, 73 - Pothole arches 44 - Powell, John Wesley, Canyonlands National Park 15 - Professor Valley 56 - - - R - Rainbow Bridge National Monument 103 - Rainwater 41, 42 - Rampton, Calvin L., Utah Governor 8 - Reading, additional _104_ - References, selected _105_ - Relief map, shaded, Arches National Park, described 18, 19 - Ribbon Arch 72 - Richardson Amphitheater 56 - Richardson, Professor 56 - Rico Formation 23 - Rison, (Mrs.) Esther Stanley 13 - Rock formations, sculptured by erosion 35 - Rock openings, natural, types 37 - Rock types in the park 35 - Roosevelt, Franklin D., proclamation 2 - Rumel, Hal, photographer 77 - “Run, Cougar, Run” 16, 56, 75 - - - S - Sagers Wash syncline 86 - Salt, occurrence 15 - properties critical to formation of salt anticlines 30 - Salt anticlines 30, 31, 100 - collapse 33, 34 - Salt-bearing rock 83 - Salt rolls 31 - Salt Valley 2, 68, 73, 77, _82_, 83, 92 - gravity anomalies 32 - Salt Valley anticline 25, 30, 31, 32, 73, 100, 101 - collapse 34 - fins 42 - Salt Valley Wash 3, 74, 82, 83 - Salt Wash 35, 55 - Anasazi ruins 9 - drainage 18 - grabens 34 - sandstone caves near 10 - Salt Wash Sandstone Member, Morrison Formation 14 - San Juan Basin, natural gas 15 - San Rafael Swell 101, 103 - Sand Dune Arch 79 - Sandstone fins 41, 42 - Schaafsma, Polly, quoted 10, 12 - Scenic drive, Moab to Cisco 16 - “Scenic Inch,” Pacific Northwest Pipeline 15 - Sedimentary rocks 20 - modes of deposition 99 - Seven Mile-Moab Valley anticline 26, 32, 57 - Sevenmile Canyon 15 - Sheep Rock 63 - Skyline Arch 83 - Slick Rock Member, Entrada Sandstone 34 - Entrada Sandstone, composition 41 - high fins and pinnacles 63, 79, 86 - hiking trail between fins 90 - park road cutting 57 - salmon 77 - The Windows section 71 - Tunnel Arch 46 - vertical arches 42, 44 - Slumping of sediments, irregular 50 - Snow 41, 51 - Sonic booms, dangers posed to arches 16, 17 - South Window 40, 68, 71 - Spanish explorers 12 - introduction of horses to this country 10 - Squaw Flat Campground 16 - Stanley, Esther 13 - (Mrs.) Flora 13 - Volna 13 - Stevens, Dale J. 40, 41, 63, 90, 98 - Strata, lateral changes across the park 22 - Sundance Kid 12 - Sunset Crater National Monument 103 - Supersonic flights banned, Moab-Times Independent 17 - Suspension bridge, Colorado River 16 - - - T - Tanner, (Mrs.) Faun McConkie 1 - Taylor, L. L. (Bish) 1 - Temperatures 51 - “The Guide to an Auto Tour of Arches National Park” 5, 50, 51, 72 - The Needles section, Canyonlands National Park 16, 102 - The Windows section 25, 41, 46, 51, 66, _68_, 69, 70 - Three Gossips 63 - Three Penguins 57 - Tower Arch 83 - Tunnel Arch 40, 46, 90 - Turnbow, Mary 1 - Turnbow cabin 13 - Turret Arch 68, 71 - - - U - Uncompahgre Highland 23, 99, 100 - Uncompahgre Plateau 23, 99 - Uplift, Colorado Plateau _33_ - Upper Devils Garden 98 - number of arches 41 - Uranium mines 14 - Ute petroglyphs 10, 75 - - - V - Vanadium mines 14 - Vegetation 37 - Vertical arches 42, 44 - Visitor Center 50, 51, 57, 86 - Volz, J. Leonard 8 - - - W - Walker, Lester 13 - Wall Arch 90 - Walt Disney crew, “Run, Cougar, Run” 75 - Wasatch Formation 32 - Water supply, Navajo Sandstone 57 - to the campground 87 - White Rim Sandstone Member, Cutler Formation 22 - Wild Bunch, The 12 - Williams, J. W. 1, 4 - Wilson, Bates 1, 3, 105 - Wilson, (Mrs.) Bates 3 - Windows, distinguished from arches _40_ - Windows section, The 25, 46, 51, 66, _68_, 69, 70 - number of arches 41 - Wingate Sandstone 35, 87, 102, 103 - Wirth, Conrad L. 4 - Wolfe cabin 1, 3, 12, 13, 14 - Wolfe, Fred 12, 13 - Wolfe, John Wesley 12, 13 - Wolfe’s Bar-DX Ranch 9, 10, 14, 74, 75 - Wupatki National Monument 102 - - - Y - Yellow Cat area (Thompson’s area) 14 - Yellow Cat Flat 86 - Yellow Cat mining district 83 - - - Z - Zion National Park 103 - - ★U.S. GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE: 1975—679-138 - - [Illustration: U. S. Department of the Interior, March 3, 1849] - - - - -Transcriber’s Notes - - -—Retained publication information from the printed edition: this eBook - is public-domain in the country of publication. - -—Corrected a few palpable typos. - -—Included a transcription of the text within some images. - -—In the text versions only, text in italics is delimited by - _underscores_. - -—The HTML version contains relative hyperlinks to a companion volume on - Canyonlands National Park, Gutenberg eBook #51048. - -—A third book in the series, on Colorado National Monument, was revised - after this book was printed. - - - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Geologic Story of Arches National -Park, by S. W. 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Thus, we do not -necessarily keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper -edition. - -Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search -facility: www.gutenberg.org - -This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, -including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to -subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. - diff --git a/old/51116-0.zip b/old/51116-0.zip Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index dafe34d..0000000 --- a/old/51116-0.zip +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/51116-8.txt b/old/51116-8.txt deleted file mode 100644 index c5f6914..0000000 --- a/old/51116-8.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3509 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Geologic Story of Arches National Park, by -S. W. Lohman - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: The Geologic Story of Arches National Park - Geological Survey Bulletin 1393 - -Author: S. W. Lohman - -Illustrator: John R. Stacy - -Release Date: February 3, 2016 [EBook #51116] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK GEOLOGIC STORY--ARCHES NATIONAL PARK *** - - - - -Produced by Stephen Hutcheson, Dave Morgan and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net - - - - - - - [Illustration: Geology of Arches National Park] - - [Illustration: BALANCED ROCK, guarding The Windows section of Arches - National Park. Rock is Slick Rock Member of Entrada Sandstone - resting upon crinkly bedded Dewey Bridge Member of the Entrada. - White rock in foreground is Navajo Sandstone. La Sal Mountains on - right skyline. (Frontispiece)] - - [Illustration: Graphic Title Page] - - - - - _The Geologic Story of_ - Arches - NATIONAL PARK - - - By S. W. Lohman - Graphics by - John R. Stacy - - GEOLOGICAL SURVEY BULLETIN 1393 - - - UNITED STATES DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR - ROGERS C. B. MORTON, _Secretary_ - - GEOLOGICAL SURVEY - V. E. McKelvey, _Director_ - - [Illustration: Department of the Interior March 3, 1949] - - U.S. GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE: 1975 - - - Library of Congress Cataloging in Publication Data - Lohman, Stanley William, 1907- - The geologic story of Arches National Park. - (Geological Survey Bulletin 1393) - Bibliography: p. - Includes index. - Supt. of Docs. no.: I 19.3:1393 - 1. Geology--Utah--Arches National Park--Guide-books. - 2. Arches National Park, Utah--Guide-books. - I. Title. II. Series: United States Geological Survey - Bulletin 1393. - QE75.B9 No. 1393 [QE170.A7] 557.3'08s [557.92'58] - 74-23324 - - - For sale by the Superintendent of Documents, U. S. Government Printing - Office - Washington, D. C. 20402 - Stock Number 024-001-02598-1 - - - - - Contents - - - Page - Beginning of a monument 1 - Graduation to a park 5 - Early history 9 - Prehistoric people 9 - Late arrivals 12 - Geographic setting 18 - Deposition of the rock materials 20 - Bending and breaking of the rocks 24 - Uplift and erosion of the Plateau 33 - Origin and development of the arches 37 - Examples of arches 46 - How to see the park 50 - A trip through the park 52 - Colorado River canyon 52 - Headquarters area 57 - Courthouse Towers area 63 - The Windows section 68 - Delicate Arch area 74 - Fiery Furnace 79 - Salt Valley and Klondike Bluffs 82 - Devils Garden 83 - Summary of geologic history 98 - Additional reading 104 - Acknowledgments 105 - Selected references 105 - Index 109 - - - - - Figures - - - Page - Frontispiece. Balanced Rock. - 1. Arches National Park 6 - 2. Rock art in Arches National Park 11 - 3. Wolfe's Bar-DX Ranch 14 - 4. Rock column of Arches National Park 21 - 5. Common types of rock folds 25 - 6. Common types of rock faults 26 - 7. Paradox basin 27 - 8. Geologic section across northwest end of Arches National Park 28 - 9. Index map of northwestern part of Arches National Park 28 - 10. Gravity anomalies over Salt Valley 31 - 11. Tilted block of rocks in Cache Valley graben 34 - 12. Jointed northeast flank of Salt Valley anticline 36 - 13. Index map 38 - 14. Tunnel Arch 43 - 15. "Baby Arch" 44 - 16. Broken Arch 45 - 17. Double Arch 47 - 18. Pothole Arch 48 - 19. Glen Canyon Group 53 - 20. Navajo Sandstone cliffs 54 - 21. Mouth of Salt Wash 55 - 22. Southeast end of faulted Cache Valley anticline 56 - 23. Faulted Seven Mile-Moab Valley anticline 58 - 24. Three Penguins 59 - 25. Moab Valley 60 - 26. Faulted wall of Entrada Sandstone 61 - 27. Park Avenue 62 - 28. Balanced rocks on south wall of Park Avenue 64 - 29. Courthouse Towers 65 - 30. The Three Gossips 66 - 31. Sheep Rock 66 - 32. Petrified sand dunes 67 - 33. "Hoodoos and goblins" 68 - 34. Eye of The Whale 69 - 35. Intricate crossbeds in Navajo Sandstone 70 - 36. Cove Arch and Cove of Caves 71 - 37. North Window 72 - 38. Looking southwestward through North Window 73 - 39. South Window 74 - 40. Turret Arch 75 - 41. Parade of Elephants 76 - 42. Suspension foot bridge across Salt Wash 78 - 43. Delicate Arch 78 - 44. Fiery Furnace 80 - 45. Trail to Sand Dune Arch 81 - 46. Sand Dune Arch 82 - 47. Tower Arch 84 - 48. Skyline Arch 85 - 49. Campground in Devils Garden 86 - 50. View north from campground 87 - 51. Southeastern part of Devils Garden trail 88 - 52. Pine Tree Arch 89 - 53. Landscape Arch 91 - 54. Navajo Arch 92 - 55. Partition Arch 93 - 56. Double O Arch 93 - 57. Dark Angel 94 - 58. "Indian-Head Arch" 95 - 59. Geologic time spiral 96 - - [Illustration: Petroglyph figure] - - - - -Beginning of a Monument - - -According to former Superintendent Bates Wilson (1956), Prof. Lawrence -M. Gould, of the University of Michigan, was the first to recognize the -geologic and scenic values of the Arches area in eastern Utah and to -urge its creation as a national monument. Mrs. Faun McConkie Tanner[1] -told me that Professor Gould, who had done a thesis problem in the -nearby La Sal Mountains, was first taken through the area by Marv -Turnbow, third owner of Wolfe cabin. (See p. 12.) When Professor Gould -went into ecstasy over the beautiful scenery, Turnbow replied, "I didn't -know there was anything unusual about it." - -Dr. J. W. Williams, generally regarded as father of the monument, and L. -L. (Bish) Taylor, of the Moab Times-Independent, were the local leaders -in following up on Gould's suggestion and, with the help of the Moab -Lions Club, their efforts finally succeeded on April 12, 1929, when -President Herbert Hoover proclaimed Arches National Monument, then -comprising only 7 square miles.[2] It was enlarged to about 53 square -miles by President Franklin D. Roosevelt's Proclamation of November 25, -1938, and remained at nearly that size, with some boundary adjustments -on July 22, 1960, until it was enlarged to about 130 square miles by -President Lyndon B. Johnson's Proclamation of January 20, 1969. - -According to Breed (1947), Harry Goulding, of Monument Valley, in a -specially equipped car, traversed the rugged sand and rocks of the -Arches region in the fall of 1936 and, thus, became the first person to -drive a car into The Windows section of Arches National Monument. Soon -after, a bulldozer followed Harry's tracks and made a passable trail. - -When my family and I visited the monument in 1946, the entrance was -about 12 miles northwest of Moab on U.S. Highway 163 (then U.S. 160), -where Goulding's old tire tracks led eastward past a small sign reading -"Arches National Monument 8 miles." This primitive road crossed the -sandy, normally dry Courthouse Wash and ended in what is now called The -Windows section. At that time there was no water or ranger station, nor -were there any picnic tables or other improvements within the monument -proper, and the custodian was housed in an old barracks of the Civilian -Conservation Corps near what is now the entrance, 5 miles northwest of -Moab. - -Former Custodian Russell L. Mahan reported (oral commun., May 1973) that -soon after our initial visit in 1946 a 500-gallon tank was installed -near Double Arch in The Windows section and connected to a drinking -fountain and that two picnic tables and a pit toilet were added. At that -time the only access to Salt Valley and what is now called Devils Garden -was a primitive dirt road which, according to Breed (1947, p. 175), left -old U.S. Highway 160 (now U.S. 163) 24 miles northwest of Moab, went 22 -miles east, then followed Salt Valley Wash down to Wolfe cabin (fig. 1). - -According to Abbey (1971), who served as a seasonal ranger beginning -about 1958, a sign had by then been erected at the crossing of -Courthouse Wash which read: - - WARNING: QUICKSAND - DO NOT CROSS WASH - WHEN WATER IS RUNNING - -The ranger station, his home for 6 months of the year, was what Abbey -described as "a little tin housetrailer." Nearby was an information -display under a "lean-to shelter." He had propane fuel for heat, -cooking, and refrigeration, and a small gasoline-engine-driven generator -for lights at night. His water came from the 500-gallon tank, which was -filled at intervals from a tank truck. At that time there were three -small dry campgrounds, each with tables, fireplaces, garbage cans, and -pit toilets. By that time an extension of the dirt road led northward to -Devils Garden, and some trails had been built and marked. - -Bates Wilson became Custodian of the monument in 1949 and later became -Superintendent not only of Arches but also of the nearby new Canyonlands -National Park (Lohman, 1974) and the more distant Natural Bridges -National Monument. In the fall of 1969, Bates told me of some of his -early experiences in the undeveloped monument, including the evening -when 22 cars were marooned on the wrong (northeast) side of Courthouse -Wash after a flash flood. Bates and his "lone" ranger brought ropes, -coffee, and what food they could obtain in town after closing time, -threw a line across the swollen stream, had a tourist pull a rope -across, then took turns wading the stream with one hand on the rope and -the other balancing supplies on his shoulder. After a fire had been -built and hot coffee and food passed around, the spirits of the stranded -group rose considerably, except for one irate woman from the East, who -refused to budge from her car. Bates and his helper finally got the last -car out about 1 a.m., after the flood had subsided, and Mrs. Wilson then -supplied lodging and more food and coffee for those who needed it. - -During and for sometime after World War II and the Korean War, lack of -maintenance funds and personnel had prevented improvement of the -facilities in many of our national parks and monuments, particularly in -undeveloped ones like Arches. The day was saved through the wisdom and -foresight of former Park Service Director Conrad L. Wirth, who saw the -need and desirability of putting the whole "want" list into one -attractive, marketable package. In the words of Everhart (1972, p. 36): - - Selection of a name is of course recognized as the most important - decision in any large-scale enterprise, and here Wirth struck pure - gold. In 1966 the Park Service would be celebrating its fiftieth - anniversary. What a God-given target to shoot for! Why not produce a - ten-year program, which would begin in 1956, aimed to bring every park - up to standard by 1966--and call it Mission 66? - -The ensuing well-documented and cost-estimated plan for Mission 66 was -enthusiastically backed by President Dwight D. Eisenhower and approved -and well supported by Congress to the tune of more than $1 billion -during the 10-year period. For Arches, this included a new entrance, -Park Headquarters, Visitor Center, a museum boasting a bust of founder -Dr. Williams, and modern housing for park personnel, all 5 miles -northwest of Moab. By 1958 (Pierson, 1960) a fine new paved road between -Park Headquarters and Balanced Rock (frontispiece) was completed. These -badly needed improvements were followed by the completion of the paved -road all the way to Devils Garden, the building of the modern -campground, picnic facilities, and amphitheater in the Devils Garden, -and the construction of turnouts and marked trails. - - [Illustration: Petroglyph figure] - - - - -Graduation to a Park - - -Arches graduated to a full-fledged national park when President Richard -M. Nixon signed a Congressional Bill on November 16, 1971. The change in -status was accompanied by boundary changes that reduced the area to -about 114 square miles. The loss of most of Dry Mesa, just east of the -present boundary (fig. 1), was offset in part by gains of new land -northwest of Devils Garden. The present (1974) boundaries, roads, -trails, and named features of the park are shown in figure 1. - -The park was virtually completed at graduation time, and so far this -change in status has shown up mainly in new entrance signs, a new 1972 -brochure and map, and a very informative "Guide to an Auto Tour of -Arches National Park," keyed to numbered signs at parking spaces. About -all that remain to be added are new wayside exhibits, some boundary -fences, and spur roads and trails. - - [Illustration: ARCHES NATIONAL PARK, showing location in Utah, - boundaries, streams, highways and roads, trails, landforms, - principal named features, and the city of Moab. The reader is - referred to figure 7 and to road maps issued by the State or by oil - companies for the locations of other nearby towns and features. - Visitors also may obtain pamphlets, from the entrance station or - from the National Park Service office in Moab, which contain - up-to-date maps of the park and the latest available information on - roads, trails, campsites, and picnic sites. (Fig. 1)] - -Although Arches had officially become a park in November 1971, it was -not formally dedicated until May 15, 1972. The ceremony began by having -the Federal, State, and local dignitaries and other guests totaling 140 -persons board the _Canyon King_, a 93-foot replica of a Mississippi -River sternwheeler (Lansford, 1972; Lohman, 1974, fig. 69), for its -maiden voyage down the Colorado River. After about half an hour, the -heavily laden boat became stuck on a sandbar, and after a 90-minute wait -the passengers were rescued by jet boats. This delayed a luncheon at the -Visitor Center put on by the Moab Lions Club. Following the luncheon, -Park Superintendent Bates Wilson made a brief welcoming address, then -introduced J. Leonard Volz, Director of the Midwest Region of the -National Park Service, who served as master of ceremonies. Speakers -included Utah Governor Calvin L. Rampton, Senator Frank E. Moss, a -representative of Senator Wallace F. Bennett, Representatives Sherman P. -Lloyd of Utah and Wayne Aspinall of Colorado, and Mitchell Melich, -Solicitor General of the Department of Interior, representing Secretary -Rogers C. B. Morton. After the speeches, a commemorative plaque, donated -by the Canyonlands Natural History Association, was unveiled by Senator -Moss and Mr. Melich. - -Most of the color photographs were taken by me on 4- x 5-inch film in a -tripod-mounted press camera, using lenses of several focal lengths, but -a few were taken on 35-mm film, using lenses of various focal lengths. I -am grateful to several friends for the color photographs credited to -them in the figure captions. The black and white photographs were kindly -loaned from the Moab and Arches files of the National Park Service. The -points from which most of the photographs were taken are shown in figure -13. - - [Illustration: Petroglyph figure] - - - - -Early History - - - Prehistoric People - -The Canyon lands in and south of Arches were inhabited by cliff dwellers -centuries before the first visits of the Spaniards and fur trappers. -Projectile points and other artifacts found in the nearby La Sal and -Abajo Mountains indicate occupation by aborigines during the period from -about 3000-2000 B.C. to about A.D. 1 (Hunt, Alice, 1956). The Fremont -people occupied the area around A.D. 850 or 900, and the Pueblo or -Anasazi people from about A.D. 1075 to their departure in the late 12th -century (Jennings, 1970). Most of the evidence for these early -occupations has been found in and south of Canyonlands National Park -(Lohman, 1974), but some traces of these and possibly earlier cultures -have been found also within Arches National Park. - -Ross A. Maxwell (National Park Service, written commun., 1941) -investigated two caves in the Entrada Sandstone in the upper reaches of -Salt Wash that contain Anasazi ruins. He mentioned that perhaps a dozen -or more other caves should be checked for evidence of former occupation -and, also, that he found several ancient campsites littered with flint -chips and broken tools. - -One cave Maxwell explored some 5 miles north of Wolfe Ranch and north of -the park is about 300 feet long and 100 to 150 feet deep. It contains -the remains of one or more ruins of a structure he thought may have -covered much of the floor. The remaining parts of walls now are only two -to four tiers of stones in height, although originally they may have -been more than one story high. Maxwell explored a second cave on the -east side of Salt Wash, about 2 miles north of Wolfe Ranch, which -contains 16 storage cists of adobe. - -The faces of many older sandstone cliffs or ledges are darkened by -desert varnish--a natural pigment of iron and manganese oxides. The -prehistoric inhabitants of the Plateau learned that effective and -enduring designs, called petroglyphs, could be created simply by -chiseling or pecking through the thin dark layer to reveal the buff or -tan sandstone beneath. Most petroglyphs were created by the Anasazi, but -those showing men mounted on horses were done by Ute tribesmen after the -Spaniards brought in horses in the 1500's. The Fremont people and some -earlier people painted figures on rock faces, called pictographs, and -some of these had pecked outlines. - -The so-called "Moab panel" was described by Beckwith (1934, p. 177) as a -petroglyph, but, as pointed out by Schaafsma (1971, p. 72, 73), it -comprises figures having pecked outlines and painted bodies, which -actually are combinations of petroglyphs and pictographs. This -beautifully preserved group of paintings is shown in the upper -photograph of figure 2. Mrs. Schaafsma goes on to say, concerning the -"Moab panel": - - The long tapered body, the antenna like headdresses, and the staring - eyes are characteristic features of Barrier Canyon style figures - elsewhere * * *. Of special interest here are the large shields held - by certain figures. A visit to this site indicated that the shields, - although apparently of some antiquity, have been superimposed over - some of the Barrier Canyon figures. Whether or not this was done by - the Barrier Canyon style artists themselves or later comers to the - site is impossible to tell. - -Although definite proof seems lacking, she suggested (written commun., -Nov. 3, 1973) that the "'Barrier Canyon style'[3] * * * is earlier than -the work in the same region clearly attributable to the Fremont." Note -the three bullet holes in and near the right-hand shield. A ledge above -the panel that contained petroglyphs during her earlier visit had fallen -to the base of the cliff by the time my wife and I inspected the panel -in September 1973. - - [Illustration: ROCK ART IN ARCHES NATIONAL PARK. A (above), "Moab - panel," on cliff of Wingate Sandstone above U.S. Highway 163 between - Courthouse Wash and Colorado River, believed to be the work of - "Barrier Canyon" style people. B (below), Petroglyphs on ledge of - sandstone in Morrison Formation on east side of Salt Wash just north - of Wolfe Ranch, believed to have been cut by Ute tribesmen. (Fig. - 2)] - - [Illustration: Fig. 2 B] - -Mrs. Schaafsma believes the petroglyphs in the lower photograph of -figure 2 to be the work of Ute tribesmen, not only because of the -horses, but also because of the stiff-legged appearance of the mountain -sheep. Note the bullet hole above the panel. - - - Late Arrivals - -Later arrivals in and near Arches National Park included first Spanish -explorers, then trappers, cattlemen, cattle rustlers and horse thieves, -followed in the present century by oil drillers, uranium hunters, -jeepsters, and tourists. Butch Cassidy, the Sundance Kid, and other -members of The Wild Bunch are known to have frequented parts of what is -now Canyonlands National Park (Baker, Pearl, 1971), but it is not -certain whether or not any of them traversed what is now Arches National -Park. - -The first settler in what is now Arches National Park was a Civil War -veteran named John Wesley Wolfe, who was discharged from the Union Army -about 3 weeks before the Battle of Bull Run because he suffered from -varicose veins. In 1888 his doctor told him he had to leave Ohio for a -dryer climate or he would not live 6 months, so he took his son Fred -west and settled on a tract of 150 acres along the west bank of Salt -Wash, where his "Wolfe cabin" still stands (figs. 1, 3). From family -letters and newspaper clippings compiled by Mrs. Maxine Newell and other -members of the National Park Service (Maxine Newell, written commun., -1971), we learn what life in the area was like: - - We have started a cattle spread on a desert homestead. We call it the - Bar-DX Ranch. Fred and I live in a little log house on the bank of a - creek that is sometimes dry, sometimes flooded from bank to bank with - roaring muddy water. We are surrounded with rocks--gigantic red rock - formations, massive arches and weird figures, the like of which youve - [sic] never seen. The desert is a hostile, demanding country, hot in - summer, cold in winter. The Bar-DX Ranch is a day's ride from the - nearest store, out of the range of schools. - -Although John Wolfe had promised his wife and his other children that he -would return home the first fall that his cattle sales netted enough -money, he and Fred stayed on and on, and his wife refused to go west and -join her husband and son. Eighteen years later he sent money from his -pension check to his daughter, Mrs. Flora Stanley, his son-in-law, Ed -Stanley, and his two grandchildren, Esther and Ferol, to join him and -Fred at the ranch. Their train was met at Thompson Springs (now -Thompson), Utah (fig. 7), by John Wolfe for the 30-mile ride to the -ranch by horse and wagon. Sight of the tiny log cabin with only a dirt -floor brought tears to his daughter's eyes, but her spirits rose -considerably after John Wolfe promised to build a new log cabin with a -wooden floor. But the children were enchanted with this strange country, -with the building of the new cabin, and, especially, with getting to go -rabbit hunting with Grandpa Wolfe. The Stanleys stayed at the ranch -until Esther was 10, then moved to Moab to await the arrival of their -third child, Volna. - -In 1910 John Wolfe sold the Bar-DX Ranch, and the entire family moved to -Kansas. John Wolfe later moved back to Ohio, and died at Etna, Licking -County, on October 22, 1913, at the age of 84, 25 years after his doctor -had warned him to move to a dryer climate or face an early death. - -Wolfe had sold his spread to Tommy Larson, who later sold it to J. Marv -Turnbow and his partners, Lester Walker and Stib Beeson. The old log -cabin gradually came to be known as the "Turnbow cabin," and this name -appeared on early maps of the area by the U.S. Geological Survey and on -early pamphlets by the National Park Service, partly because Marv -Turnbow served as a camphand in 1927 assisting in the first detailed -geologic mapping of the area (Dane, 1935, p. 4). In 1947 the ranch was -sold to Emmett Elizondo, who later sold it to the Government for -inclusion in what was then the monument. - -From information supplied by Wolfe's granddaughter, Mrs. Esther Stanley -Rison, and his great-granddaughter, Mrs. Hazel Wolfe Hastler, who -visited the cabin in July 1970, the original name Wolfe cabin, or Wolfe -Ranch, has been restored, and appears on the newer maps and pamphlets. -(See fig. 1.) What remains of Wolfe's Bar-DX Ranch is shown in figure 3. - - [Illustration: WOLFE'S BAR-DX RANCH, on west bank of Salt Wash at - start of trail to Delicate Arch. Left to right: Corral, wagon, "new" - cabin, and root cellar. "Old" cabin, which formerly was to right of - photograph, was washed away by a flood in 1906. (Fig. 3)] - -Arches National Park is surrounded by active uranium and vanadium mines -and by many test wells for oil, gas, and potash; it is underlain by -extensive salt and potash deposits. Oil and gas are produced a few miles -to the north and east, and potash is being produced about 12 miles to -the south (Lohman, 1974). - -Uranium and vanadium have been mined on the Colorado Plateau since 1898 -(Dane, 1935, p. 176) and in the Yellow Cat area (also called Thompson's -area), just north of the park (fig. 1), since about 1911 (Stokes, 1952, -p. 7). The deposits in the Yellow Cat area occur in the Salt Wash -Sandstone Member of the Morrison Formation (fig. 4). According to Pete -Beroni (U.S. Atomic Energy Commission, oral commun., August 6, 1973), -some ore is still being produced in the Yellow Cat area, and the -production of vanadium ore will increase as soon as the uranium mill at -Moab is converted to also handle vanadium ore. The Corral and so-called -Shinarump mines along the southwest side of Moab Canyon just north of -Sevenmile Canyon (fig. 1) are still actively producing uranium ore from -the Moss Back Member of the Chinle Formation, according to Mr. Beroni. - -The occurrences of salt and potash in and near the park and the attempts -to find oil and gas nearby are discussed in a recent report (Hite and -Lohman, 1973), and the deposits beneath Moab, Salt, and Cache Valleys -are discussed in later chapters. - -In 1955 and 1956 the Pacific Northwest Pipeline, known also as the -"Scenic Inch," was constructed by the Pacific Northwest Pipeline Corp. -to transmit natural gas from wells in the San Juan Basin of northwestern -New Mexico for a total of 1,487 miles to the Pacific Northwest, with -additional pickups from gas fields in northeastern Utah, northwestern -Colorado, and southwestern Wyoming (Walters, 1956). This 26-inch -pipeline follows the general route of U.S. Highway 163 from Cortez, -Colo., past Moab to Sevenmile Canyon 10 miles northwest of Moab, where -it turns abruptly to the northeast and crosses about the middle of -Arches National Park. It crosses the park road and the flat area between -the Fiery Furnace and the southeast end of Devils Garden, but the scars -are so well healed that most visitors are unaware of its existence -unless they happen to look southwestward across Salt Valley, where the -filled excavation is still visible. The filled trench also appears in -the lower middle of figure 23. - -Unlike Canyonlands National Park a few miles to the south, Arches was -not on the route of the famous early-day river expeditions of John -Wesley Powell or of most of those that followed; however, the -southeastern boundary of the park is the Colorado River, formerly the -Grand, which was traversed by the first leg of the ill-fated -Brown-Stanton expedition (Dellenbaugh, 1902, p. 343-369; Lohman, 1974). - -The canyon of the Colorado River along the southeastern park boundary is -deep and beautiful and is a favorite stretch of quiet water for boaters -and floaters. Partly paved State Highway 128 on the east bank is a part -of a most scenic drive from Moab to Cisco--a small railroad town about -32 miles northeast of the eastern border of figure 1 (fig. 7). This road -has been variously called the "Moab Mail Road," the "Cisco Cutoff," the -"Dewey Road," or the "Dewey Bridge Road" after an old suspension bridge -(fig. 7) across the Colorado River at the old townsite of Dewey about 12 -miles south of Cisco. During the summer this deep colorful canyon may be -viewed at night by artificial illumination. Each evening one-half hour -after sundown, an 80-passenger jet boat leaves a dock north of the -highway bridge, carries passengers several miles upstream, then floats -slowly downstream followed by a truck on the highway carrying 40,000 -watts of searchlights which play back and forth on the colorful red -canyon walls, while the passengers listen to a taped discourse. The -entire trip requires about 2 hours. - -The spectacular arches and red rocks of Arches and vicinity have been -used to advantage in making color movies and color TV shows. Parts of -the recent Walt Disney film "Run, Cougar, Run" were filmed beneath -Delicate Arch (fig. 43), in Professor Valley of the Colorado River just -east of the park (fig. 7), and in other sections of the canyon country. - -Ever since military jet aircraft broke the sound barrier, there has been -a growing number of protests from concerned citizens, organizations, and -National Park Service officials concerning the dangers sonic booms have -posed to Indian ruins and delicate erosional forms in our national parks -and monuments, such as natural bridges, arches and windows, balanced -rocks, and natural spires or towers. Many instances of damaged ruins, -roads, erosional forms, and broken windows were reported. My wife and I -can vouch for the destructive power of such booms, for in October 1969, -while we were having breakfast at Squaw Flat Campground in The Needles -section of Canyonlands National Park, a particularly severe blast from a -low-flying jet not only violently rocked our jack-supported trailer but -broke the windshield of our car. - -At Arches National Park, particular fear was felt for Landscape Arch -(fig. 53), thought to be the longest natural stone arch in the world, -and many a special round trip from headquarters involving 47 road miles -and 2 trail miles was made to check on the condition of this arch after -especially loud sonic booms were heard. Finally, in April 1972, -following a rash of newspaper and magazine articles that spread across -the nation, the Secretary of the Air Force put a virtual stop to this -danger by ruling that, except in an emergency (Moab Times-Independent, -April 12, 1972): - - Supersonic flights must not only avoid passing over national parks, - they also may not fly near them, according to the new regulation. For - each 1,000 feet of altitude, the pilot must allow one-half mile - between the flight path and the park boundary. The regulation also - prohibits supersonic flights below 30,000 feet (over land) so the high - speed planes must allow 15 miles between the nearest park boundary and - the flight path. - -Let us hope that with the aid of this long-needed regulation and -cooperation from visitors, the arches will remain intact for many more -generations to see. - - [Illustration: Petroglyph figure] - - - - -Geographic Setting - - -Geologists have divided the United States into many provinces, each of -which has distinctive geologic and topographic characteristics that set -it apart from the others. One of the most intriguing and scenic of these -is the Colorado Plateaus province, referred to in this report simply as -the Colorado Plateau, or the Plateau (Hunt, C. B., 1956, fig. 1). This -province, which covers some 150,000 square miles and is not all -plateaus, as we shall see, extends from Rifle, Colo., at the northeast -to a little beyond Flagstaff, Ariz., at the southwest, and from Cedar -City, Utah, at the west nearly to Albuquerque, N. Mex., at the -southeast. Arches National Park occupies part of the Canyon Lands -Section, one of the six subdivisions of the Plateau. As the names imply, -the Canyon Lands Section of the Plateau comprises a high plateau -generally ranging in altitude from 5,000 to 7,000 feet, which has been -intricately dissected by literally thousands of canyons. - -Arches National Park is drained entirely by the Colorado River, whose -deep canyon borders the park on the southeast (fig. 1). Most of the park -is drained by Salt Wash, which enters the Colorado River just southeast -of The Windows section, but the southwestern part is drained by -Courthouse Wash and Moab Canyon, whose flows join the Colorado just west -of the bridge on which U.S. Highway 163 crosses the river. - -When viewed at a distance of 1 foot, the shaded relief map (fig. 1) -shows the general shape of the land surface in and near Arches National -Park to the same horizontal scale as it would appear to a person in a -spacecraft flying at a height of 250,000 feet, or about 47.5 miles. This -map was prepared from part of the reverse side of a plastic-relief -map[4] at a scale of 1:250,000 by the U.S. Army Map Service of the Moab -quadrangle, using a simple time- and money-saving method (Stacy, 1962). - - [Illustration: Petroglyph figure] - - - - -Deposition of The Rock Materials - - -The vivid and varied colors of the bare rocks and the fantastic buttes, -spires, columns, alcoves, caves, arches, and other erosional forms of -Arches National Park result from a fortuitous combination of geologic -and climatic circumstances and events unequalled in most other parts of -the world. - -First among these events was the piling up, layer upon layer, of -thousands of feet of sedimentary rocks under a wide variety of -environments. Sedimentary rocks of the region are composed of clay, -silt, sand, and gravel carried and deposited by moving water; silt and -sand transported by wind; and some materials precipitated from water -solutions, such as limestone (calcium carbonate), dolomite (calcium and -magnesium carbonate), gypsum (calcium sulfate with some water), -anhydrite (calcium sulfate alone), common salt (sodium chloride), potash -minerals, such as potassium chloride, and a few other less common types. -Some of the beds were laid down in shallow seas that once covered the -area or in lagoons and estuaries near the sea. Other beds were deposited -by streams in inland basins or plains, a few were deposited in lakes, -and the constituents of deposits like the Navajo Sandstone, were carried -in by the wind. The character and thickness of the exposed sedimentary -rocks and the names and ages assigned to them by geologists are shown in -the rock column (fig. 4) and in the cross section (fig. 8). The history -of their deposition is summarized on pages 98-102. Figure 4 was compiled -mainly from generalized sections given by A. A. Baker (1933), Dane -(1935), McKnight (1940), and Wright, Shawe, and Lohman (1962), and, in -part, from Hite and Lohman (1973). - - [Illustration: ROCK COLUMN OF ARCHES NATIONAL PARK. Average - thickness of units 250-1,000 feet is exaggerated two times; those - less than 250 feet, four times. 1 foot = 0.305 meter. (Fig. 4)] - - - AGE (millions of yrs ago) - GEOLOGIC AGE - NAME OF ROCK UNIT - KIND OF ROCK AND HOW IT IS SCULPTURED BY EROSION - THICKNESS (feet) - NAMED FOR OCCURRENCE AT OR NEAR - - - 100 - Late Cretaceous - Mancos Shale - Lead-gray fossiliferous marine shale. Forms slopes. - ? - Mancos, Colo. - Dakota Sandstone - Conglomeratic sandstone, gray shale, carbonaceous shale, and - coal. Forms ledge. - 100 - Dakota, Nebr. - Unconformity - Late Jurassic - Morrison Fm. - 700 - Morrison, Colo. - Brushy Basin Member - Variegated shale, some sandstone and conglomerate, petrified - wood, chert, and dinosaur bones. May contain some beds - of Burro Canyon (Early Cretaceous) age. - Salt Wash Member - Crossbedded white and gray conglomeratic sandstone beds and - lenses, locally carnotite bearing, and red and gray - sandy mudstone. Forms slopes. - Unconformity - 160 - San Rafael Group - (San Rafael Swell, Utah) - Summerville Fm. - Thin bedded red sandstone and shale. Some cherty limestone - concretions. Forms slopes. - 0-40 - Summerville Point, Utah - Entrada Ss. - (Entrada Point, Utah) - Moab Member - White, crossbedded fine-grained sandstone. Caps Slick Rock - Member north of Devils Garden and Fiery Furnace and on - Klondike Bluffs. - 0-100 - Moab, Utah - Slick Rock Member - Salmon-colored to pink and white fine-grained generally - crossbedded sandstone, containing some medium- to - coarse-grained sand. Generally forms cliffs or narrow - fins many of which contain arches or windows. - 0-240 - Slick Rock, Colo. - Dewey Bridge Member - Red muddy sandstone and sandy mudstone, with contorted - bedding. Forms easily eroded bases to arches in - Windows Section, hence aided in their development. - 0-175 - Dewey Bridge, Utah - Unconformity - 190 - Jurassic and Triassic(?); - Glen Canyon Group - Navajo Sandstone - Massive crossbedded buff, gray, and white fine-grained - sandstone, and local beds of gray limestone. Forms - cliffs along Colorado River, floors Windows Section. - 0-350 - Navajo Country, Four Corners (Glen Canyon, U.) - Late Triassic(?) - Kayenta Formation - Lavender, gray, and white lenses of sandstone, red sandy - shale, and conglomerate. Contains some freshwater - shells. Caps and protects cliffs of Wingate Sandstone. - 0-250 - Kayenta, Ariz. - Late Triassic - Wingate Sandstone - Massive, horizontally bedded and crossbedded reddish buff - fine-grained sandstone. Forms vertical cliffs along - Colorado River, Cache Valley, Salt Wash, and - Courthouse Wash. - 0-350 - Fort Wingate, N. Mex. - 200 - Chinle Formation - Irregularly bedded buff to red sandstone, red mudstone, - limestone, and conglomerate. Lenticular sandstone and - conglomerate (Moss Back Member) locally at base. - Freshwater shells, petrified wood, reptile bones. - Forms slopes. - 0-700 - Chinle Valley, Ariz. - Moss Back Ridge, Utah Unconformity - Middle(?) and Early Triassic - Moenkopi Formation - Thin-bedded brown shale, gray and brown sandstone, arkosic - grit, and conglomerate. Crops out on southwest side of - Moab Valley and in several places in Salt and Cache - Valleys. Forms slopes. - 0-1,300 - Moenkopi Wash, Ariz. - Unconformity - 250 - Permian - Cutler Formation - Chocolate brown and red sandy shale, maroon and pinkish-gray - arkose and conglomerate. Lower part probably - equivalent in age to Rico Formation in areas to south - and east. Crops out in Moab Canyon west of Moab fault. - Forms slopes. - 0-2,500 - Cutler Creek, Colo. - Pennsylvanian - Hermosa Formation - Unnamed upper member - Gray marine fossiliferous sandy limestone, gray and - greenish-gray sandstone and sandy shale, and red sandy - shale. Exposed in ledges southwest of Moab fault in - highway cut west of park entrance. - 0-1,500 - Hermosa Creek, Animas River Valley, Colo. - 300 - Paradox Member - Salt, gypsum, and anhydrite, with black and gray shale and - limestone. Few exposures in Salt and Cache Valleys. - Forms slopes. - 0-11,000 - Paradox Valley, Colo. - Unconformity - Pennsylvanian(?) - Unnamed conglomerate - Yellow sandstone with boulders of limestone and chert - containing Mississippian fossils. Exposed at two - places in Salt Valley. - ? - - -Not exposed in the area but present far beneath the sedimentary cover -and exposed in several places a few miles to the northeast are examples -of the other two principal types of rocks--(1) igneous rocks, solidified -from molten rock forced into or above preexisting rocks along cracks, -joints, and faults, and (2) much older metamorphic rocks, formed from -other preexisting rock types by great heat and pressure at extreme -depths. Igneous rocks of Tertiary age (fig. 59) form the nearby La Sal -Mountains. The particles comprising the sedimentary rocks in the area -were derived by weathering and erosion of all three types of rocks in -various source areas. - -Arches National Park and nearby Canyonlands National Park are both in -the heart of the Canyon Lands Section of the Plateau; therefore, it is -only reasonable to wonder why the differences in their general character -seemingly outweigh their similarities. First, let us consider the -similarities. Both parks are underlain by dominantly red sedimentary -rocks, both parks feature unusual erosional forms of sandstone, and both -contain beautiful natural arches, although the arches in Canyonlands are -restricted almost entirely to the southeastern part of The Needles -section and are in much older rocks than those in Arches. - -To be sure, differences in the rocks themselves play a part in the -dissimilarity of the two parks, and these differences are of two types. -First, there are lateral changes in the character of the strata, known -to geologists as facies changes, brought about by differences in the -environment, in the type of materials, and in the mode of deposition -even within relatively short distances. Thus, during parts of the -Permian Period while sand, later to be known as the Cedar Mesa and White -Rim Sandstone Members of the Cutler Formation, was being deposited in -the southern part of Canyonlands, red mud, silt, and sand of the Cutler -were laid down farther north in Canyonlands (Lohman, 1974, fig. 9), and -similar, though somewhat coarser, beds of the Cutler were laid down at -Arches (fig. 4). Further comparisons of the rock columns in the two -parks show that while limestones of the Rico Formation were being -deposited in a shallow sea in the southern part of Canyonlands, -additional red mud, silt, and sand of the Cutler were being laid down -above sea level in areas to the northeast. The source of the coarser -materials was the ancient Uncompahgre Highland, which stood above sea -level from Late Pennsylvanian time to Late Triassic time (figs. 7, 59). -Although wider and longer, it occupied about the same position as the -present Uncompahgre Plateau between Grand Junction and Gateway, Colo. -Streams eroded the hard igneous and metamorphic rocks from this ancient -landmass and dumped the material into basins to the northeast and -southwest. The basin to the southwest, now called the Paradox basin -(after Paradox Valley, Colo.), at intervals contained shallow seas and -lagoons, which I will discuss later. - -Comparison of the rock columns for the two parks also reveals other -differences. Both parks contain exposures of rocks as old as the -Pennsylvanian Paradox Member of the Hermosa Formation. However, only in -the Horseshoe Canyon Detached Unit of Canyonlands are rocks as young as -the Jurassic Entrada Sandstone, whereas all the spectacular natural -arches that make Arches famous were formed in the Entrada Sandstone, and -Arches also contains several younger formations of Jurassic and -Cretaceous age (fig. 4). - -A commonly asked question is "Why are most of the rocks so red, -particularly those in which the arches were formed?" This can be -answered with one word--iron, the same pigment used in rouge and in -paint for barns and boxcars. Various oxides of iron, some including -water, produce not only brick red but also pink, salmon, brown, buff, -yellow, and even green or bluish green. This does not imply that the -rocks could be considered as sources of iron ore, for the merest trace, -generally only 1 to 3 percent, is enough to produce even the darkest -shades of red. The white or nearly white Navajo Sandstone and the Moab -Member of the Entrada Sandstone contain little or no iron. - -As pointed out by Stokes (1970, p. 3), microscopic examination of the -colored grains of quartz or other minerals shows the pigment to be -merely a thin coating on and between white or colorless particles. Sand -or silt weathered from such rocks soon loses its color by the scouring -action of wind or water, so that most of the sand dunes and sand bars -are white or nearly so. - - - - - Bending And Breaking of The Rocks - - -Perhaps the greatest geologic contrast between these two closely -adjacent parks lies in their different geologic structure--the kind and -amount of bending and breaking of the once nearly flat lying strata. -Consolidated rocks, particularly brittle types, are subject to two types -of fracturing by Earth forces. Joints are fractures along which no -movement has taken place. Faults are fractures along which there has -been displacement of the two sides relative to one another (fig. 6). As -noted in the report on Canyonlands National Park (Lohman, 1974), the -strata there, particularly along the valley of the Green River, are -virtually flat lying or have only very gentle dips. Along the Colorado -River above the confluence with the Green, however, the slightly dipping -strata are interrupted by several gentle anticlinal and synclinal folds -(fig. 5) and by at least one fault (fig. 6). The largest of these -folds--the Cane Creek anticline, which crosses the Colorado River north -of Canyonlands--has yielded oil in the past and is now yielding potash -by solution mining of salt beds in the Paradox Member of the Hermosa -Formation. - - [Illustration: COMMON TYPES OF ROCK FOLDS. Top, Anticline, or - upfold; closed anticlines are called domes. Bottom, Syncline, or - downfold; closed synclines are called basins. From Hansen (1969, p. - 31, 108). (Fig. 5)] - -In strong contrast to Canyonlands, Arches National Park contains three -northwesterly trending major folds and is bordered on the southwest by a -fourth. The largest and most important are the collapsed Salt Valley and -Cache Valley anticlines, which separate the two most scenic groups of -arches and other erosional forms--Eagle Park, Devils Garden, Fiery -Furnace, and Delicate Arch on the northeast, and Klondike Bluffs, -Herdina Park, and The Windows section on the southwest. Farther -southwest is the Courthouse syncline, containing the attractive group of -erosional forms called Courthouse Towers (fig. 1). Finally, near the -southwest edge of the park, is the Seven Mile-Moab Valley anticline -(also known as the Moab-Spanish Valley anticline), whose southwest limb -is cut off by the Moab fault (figs. 7, 23). The folds just named and the -sharply contrasting geologic structures of the two parks are well shown -on sheet 2 of the geologic map of the Moab quadrangle (Williams, 1964), -and the geologic formations are shown in color on sheet 1. - - [Illustration: COMMON TYPES OF FAULTS. Top, Normal, or gravity - fault, resulting from tension in and lengthening of the Earth's - crust. Bottom, reverse fault, resulting from compression in and - shortening of the Earth's crust. Low-angle reverse faults generally - are called overthrusts or overthrust faults. In both types, note - amount of displacement and repetition of strata. Displacements may - range from a few inches or feet to many thousands of feet. From - Hansen (1969, p. 116). (Fig. 6)] - - [Illustration: PARADOX BASIN, in southeastern Utah and southwestern - Colorado, showing the extent of common salt and major potash - deposits in the Paradox Member of the Hermosa Formation, and the - salt anticlines. Adapted from Hite (1972, fig. 1B). (Fig. 7)] - - [Illustration: GEOLOGIC SECTION ACROSS NORTHWEST END OF ARCHES - NATIONAL PARK, showing strata beneath Courthouse syncline and Salt - Valley anticline. For line of section, see figure 9. Caprock - consists of gypsum and shale, from which common salt has been - leached by ground water, covered by alluvium. Heavy slanted lines - near crest of anticline are faults. Adapted from Hite and Lohman - (1973, fig. 13). (Fig. 8)] - - [Illustration: INDEX MAP OF NORTHWESTERN PART OF ARCHES NATIONAL - PARK, showing axes of Courthouse syncline and Salt Valley anticline, - line of section _A_-_A_' in figure 8 and line of section _B_-_B_' in - figure 10. Open circles along line of section are sites of test - wells for oil, gas, or potash. Adapted from Hite and Lohman (1973, - fig. 12). (Fig. 9)] - -Arches National Park and most of nearby Canyonlands National Park lie -within what geologists have termed the "Paradox basin," which contains a -remarkable assemblage of sediments called the Paradox Member of the -Hermosa Formation. These deposits were laid down in shallow seas and -lagoons during Middle Pennsylvanian time, roughly 300 million years ago -(fig. 59). As indicated in figure 4, the Paradox Member contains, in -addition to shale and limestone, minerals deposited by the evaporation -and concentration of sea water--common salt, gypsum, anhydrite, and -potash salts. For this reason such deposits are collectively called -evaporites. Figure 7 also shows that the northeastern part of the -Paradox basin, which is the deepest part, contains a series of partly -alined anticlines which have cores of salt and, hence, are called salt -anticlines. As might be expected, roughly alined synclines intervene -between the anticlines, but are not shown because of space limitations. -According to Cater (1970, p. 50): "The salt anticlines of Utah and -Colorado are unique in North America both in structure and in mode of -development." To this may be added that they also are relatively rare in -the world. - -A section across the Salt Valley anticline and the Courthouse syncline -in the northwestern part of the park is shown in figure 8, and the axes -of these structures are shown in figure 9. - -Normally, a series of roughly parallel northwestward-trending folds -would result from shortening of a segment of the Earth's crust by -compressive forces from the northeast and the southwest, but such does -not seem to be the origin of these folds. The folds occur in a -relatively narrow belt along the northeastern part of the Paradox basin, -the deepest part, which was broken by a series of northwesterly trending -normal faults (fig. 6) that cut the deep-lying Precambrian and older -Paleozoic rocks (fig. 8) prior to the deposition of the salt-bearing -Paradox Member of the Hermosa Formation. Movement along these faults -continued intermittently during and after deposition of the Paradox, -however, and resulted in the formation of a series of northwesterly -trending ridges and troughs. Following Paradox time, normal sediments -derived from a rising landmass to the northeast began to fill the basin. -These sediments accumulated most rapidly and to greater thicknesses in -the fault-derived troughs. Salt differs from normal sediments in two -properties critical to the development of salt anticlines: first, salt -is considerably lighter (fig. 10), and, second, salt under pressure will -flow slowly by plastic deformation, much like ice in a glacier flows -slowly downstream. Thus, salt in the troughs underlying the thicker and -heavier masses of sediments was squeezed into the adjoining ridges, -causing them to rise. Once started, this process tended to be -self-perpetuating, as the flow of salt from beneath the thick masses of -sediments in the troughs made room for the accumulation of still greater -thicknesses of normal sediments. Consequently, the troughs receiving -most of the sediments began to form downfolds, or synclines, and the -ridges receiving little or no normal sediments began to form huge salt -rolls that later were to become the cores of the salt anticlines when -finally the ridges too were buried by sediments. Thus, the cross section -(fig. 8) shows about 12,000 feet of the Paradox Member beneath the crest -of the Salt Valley anticline and only about 2,000 feet beneath the -Courthouse syncline. Near the middle of these structures farther to the -southeast, all the Paradox Member has been squeezed out from beneath the -bordering synclines. - - [Illustration: GRAVITY ANOMALIES OVER SALT VALLEY, along line _B-B'_ - shown in figure 9, and relative densities and shapes of rock bodies - beneath. Densities are in grams per cubic centimeter. Gravity values - are in milligals, as shown. The standard acceleration of gravity is - 980.665 centimeters per second per second; 1 gal is equal to 1 - centimeter per second per second, and 1 milligal is one thousandth - of a gal. Modified from Case and Joesting (1972, fig. 2). (Fig. 10)] - -The general shape of the Salt Valley anticline is shown also by -cross-section _B-B'_ (fig. 10), taken along the northeast-southwest line -_B-B'_ in figure 9, which is based upon so-called gravity anomalies over -Salt Valley. The lighter Paradox Member, having an average density of -2.20, has a lower gravitational attraction than the heavier rocks on -each side, which have an average density of 2.55. - -By this time you are doubtless wondering why prominent upfolds of the -rocks, such as the Salt Valley anticline and associated Cache Valley -anticline and the Seven Mile-Moab Valley anticline, now underlie -relatively deep valleys bordered by prominent ridges. The formation of -these valleys was not simple and involved many steps extending over a -considerable amount of geologic time, as portrayed by Cater (1970, fig. -13; 1972, fig. 4). For a part of the story, let us reexamine the cross -section (fig. 8); the rest of the story will be told in the section on -"Uplift and Erosion." - -Figure 8 shows that the unnamed upper member of the Hermosa Formation -and the overlying Cutler and Moenkopi Formations are thickest beneath -the Courthouse syncline but wedge out against the flanks of the -anticline. Although the Chinle Formation and younger rocks appear to -extend across the fold, and may have extended across this part of the -fold, in Colorado all rocks older than the Jurassic Morrison wedge out -against the flanks of the salt anticlines (Cater, 1970, p. 35) and also -in the widest part of the Salt Valley anticline southwest of the section -in figure 8. The salt anticlines were uplifted in a series of pulses so -that some formations either were not deposited over the rising -structures or were removed by erosion before deposition of the next -younger unit. By Morrison time the supply of salt beneath the synclines -seems to have become used up; hence, the anticline stopped rising, and -the Morrison and younger formations were deposited across the -structures. Thus, in figure 4, the minimum thickness of all units older -than the Morrison is given as zero. Figure 4 shows the marine Mancos -Shale to be the youngest rock unit exposed in the park, but the -Mesaverde Group of Late Cretaceous age and possibly the early Tertiary -(fig. 59) Wasatch Formation may have been deposited and later removed by -erosion. - - - - - Uplift And Erosion of The Plateau - - -Next among the main events leading to the formation of landforms in the -park was the raising and additional buckling and breaking of the Plateau -by Earth forces partly during the Late Cretaceous but mainly during the -early Tertiary. After uplift and deformation, the Plateau was vigorously -attacked by various forces of erosion, and the rock materials pried -loose or dissolved were eventually carted away to the Gulf of California -by the ancestral Colorado River. Some idea of the enormous volume of -rock thus removed is apparent when one looks down some 2,000 feet to the -river from any of the high overlooks farther south, such as Dead Horse -Point (Lohman, 1974, fig. 15). Not so apparent, however, is the fact -that younger Mesozoic and Tertiary rocks more than 1 mile thick once -overlaid this high plateau but have been swept away by erosion. In all, -the river has carried thousands of cubic miles of sediment to the sea -and is still actively at work on this gigantic earth-moving project. In -an earlier report (Lohman, 1965, p. 42) I estimated that the rate of -removal may have been as great as about 3 cubic miles each century. For -a few years the bulk of the sediment was dumped into Lake Mead, but now -Lake Powell is getting much of it. When these and other reservoirs -ultimately become filled with sediment--for reservoirs and lakes are but -temporary things--the Gulf of California will again become the burial -ground. - -According to Cater (1970, p. 65-67), who made an intensive study of the -salt anticlines, collapse of their crests seemingly occurred in two -stages--the first stage following Late Cretaceous folding; the second -following uplift of the Plateau later in the Tertiary. Solution and -removal of salt by ground water played the leading role in the ultimate -collapse. - - [Illustration: TILTED BLOCK OF ROCKS IN CACHE VALLEY GRABEN, viewed - to the east toward Cache Valley from point on gravelled side road to - Wolfe's cabin, about half a mile east of paved road. Steep slope on - left composed of Jurassic Morrison Formation, hogback on top formed - by Dakota Sandstone of Late Cretaceous age, and gentle slopes to - right composed of the Mancos Shale of Late Cretaceous age. (Fig. - 11)] - -As shown by Dane (1935, pl. 1, p. 121-126), collapse of the Salt Valley -and Cache Valley anticlines was accompanied by considerable faulting and -jointing, particularly along their northeast sides; by the upward -intrusion of two large areas of the Paradox Member of the Hermosa -Formation, one just northwest of the park and one in the middle of Salt -Valley south of the campground; and by two downdropped masses of rock -known to geologists as grabens (pronounced grbens)--one just northwest -of the park and one called the Cache Valley graben, which extends both -east and west from Salt Wash. The Cache Valley graben has preserved from -erosion the youngest rock formations in the park, as shown in figure 11. - -The remarkable jointing of the rocks on the northeast limb of the Salt -Valley anticline is shown in figure 12. All the arches in this section -of the park were eroded through thin fins of the Slick Rock Member of -the Entrada Sandstone, and some, like Broken Arch, figure 16, are capped -by the Moab Member. - -Differences in the composition, hardness, arrangement, and thickness of -the rock layers determine their ability to withstand the forces of -fracturing and erosion and, hence, whether they tend to form cliffs, -ledges, fins, or slopes. Most of the cliff- or ledge-forming rocks are -sandstones consisting of sand deposited by wind or water and later -cemented together by silica (SiO_{2}), calcium carbonate (CaCO_{3}), or -one of the iron oxides (such as Fe_{2}O_{3}), but some hard, resistant -ledges are made of limestone (calcium carbonate). The rock column (fig. -4) shows in general how these rock formations are sculptured by erosion -and how they protect underlying layers from more rapid erosion. The -nearly vertical cliffs along the lower reaches of Salt and Courthouse -Washes and the Colorado River canyon upstream from Moab consist of the -well-cemented Wingate Sandstone protected above by the even harder -sandstones of the Kayenta Formation. (See figs. 21, 22.) To borrow from -an earlier report of mine (Lohman, 1965, p. 17), "Vertical cliffs and -shafts of the Wingate Sandstone endure only where the top of the -formation is capped by beds of the next younger rock unit--the Kayenta -Formation. The Kayenta is much more resistant than the Wingate, so even -a few feet of the Kayenta * * * protect the rock beneath." In some -places, as shown in figures 19 and 20, the overlying Navajo Sandstone -makes up the topmost unit of the cliff. - - [Illustration: JOINTED NORTHEAST FLANK OF SALT VALLEY ANTICLINE, - viewed westward from an airplane. Light-colored wedge in middle - background is Salt Valley bordered on extreme left by Klondike - Bluffs. Dark-colored fins and pinnacles on left, of Slick Rock - Member of the Entrada Sandstone, form Devils Garden. Sharp pinnacle - above valley is the Dark Angel. (See fig. 57.) White bands of - sandstone extending to foreground are composed of Moab Member of the - Entrada. Note vegetation in the joints. Photograph by National Park - Service. (Fig. 12)] - -Last but far from least among the factors responsible for the grandeur -of Arches National Park and the Plateau in general is the desert -climate, which allows one to see virtually every foot of the vividly -colored naked rocks, and which has made possible the creation and -preservation of such a wide variety of fantastic sculptures. A wetter -climate would have produced a far different, smoother landscape in which -most of the rocks and land forms would have been hidden by vegetation. -On the Plateau the vegetation grows mainly on the high mesas and the -narrow flood plains bordering the rivers, but scanty vegetation also -occurs on the gentle slopes or flats. - -The combination of layers of sediments of different composition, -hardness and thickness, the bending and breaking of the rocks, and the -desert climate, has produced steep slopes having many cliffs, ledges, -and fins with generally sharp to angular edges, rather than the subdued -rounded forms of more humid regions. - - - - - Origin And Development of The Arches - - -Among the questions commonly asked by visitors are, "How do arches -form?", "Why are some openings called windows, others arches?", "What is -the difference, if any, between arches or windows and natural bridges, -such as those at Natural Bridges National Monument?", and "How many -arches are there in Arches National Park?" Before taking up the origin -and development of arches, I shall attempt to explain the differences -between the three types of natural rock openings named above and comment -upon the number of arches. - - [Illustration: INDEX MAP, showing localities where most of the - photographs were taken. Arrows point to distant views. Numbers refer - to figure numbers. (Fig. 13)] - -I believe most geologists and geographers are in general agreement with -Cleland (1910, p. 314) that "a 'natural bridge' is a natural stone arch -that spans a valley of erosion. A 'natural arch' is a similar structure -which, however, does not span an erosion valley." According to this -definition, Natural Bridges National Monument includes three true -bridges, whereas all the larger rock openings in Arches National Park -with which I am familiar are properly termed "arches," but some are -called windows. If we were to distinguish between arches and windows, we -might say that arches occur at or near the base of a rock wall, as do -the doors of a house or building, whereas windows are found well above -ground level. This distinction was not followed in naming the rock -openings in the park, however; for example, Tunnel Arch (fig. 14) is -considerably higher above the ground than North Window (figs. 37, 38) or -South Window (fig. 39). - -As to the number of arches in the park, I might begin by saying that -there is no universal agreement as to how large a rock opening must be -to qualify as an arch. The pamphlet formerly handed to visitors entering -the park proclaimed that "Nearly 90 arches have been discovered, and -others are probably hidden away in remote and rugged parts of the area," -but the average visitor probably sees less than a third of this number. - -David May, Assistant Chief of Interpretation and Resource Management, -Moab office of National Park Service (oral commun., Oct. 1973), believes -that if only those in the park having a minimum dimension of 10 feet in -any one direction were considered to be arches, the number would boil -down to about 56 or 57. The most complete count of arches and other -openings in all of southeastern Utah was made by Dale J. Stevens, -Professor of Geography at Brigham Young University, during the period -February through April 1973. He considered those with openings of 3 feet -or larger and found more than 300 in southeastern Utah, of which 124 are -in Arches National Park, although he stated that several areas of the -park were not intensively searched because of time limitations (written -commun., July and Sept. 1973). The 124 arches and openings are -distributed among the several named areas of the park, as follows: -Courthouse Towers, 13; Herdina Park, 11; The Windows section, 25; -Delicate Arch area, 3; Fiery Furnace, 19; Devils Garden, 25; upper -Devils Garden (northwest of Devils Garden), 14; Eagle Park, 2; and -Klondike Bluffs, 12. - -Professor Stevens generally used a range finder or a steel tape to -measure the width and height of the openings and the width and thickness -of the spans, but estimated a few of the dimensions. In the text -descriptions of arches or captions of figures that follow, I am -including all or part of these measurements, without further -acknowledgment. - -All the arches in the park were formed in the Entrada Sandstone, mainly -in the Slick Rock Member but partly in the Slick Rock and Dewey Bridge -Members, and a few in the Slick Rock Member occur not far beneath the -base of the overlying Moab Member. The sandstone of the three members is -composed mainly of quartz sand cemented together by calcium carbonate -(CaCO_{3}), which also forms the mineral calcite and the rock known as -limestone, but the Dewey Bridge Member also contains beds of sandy -mudstone. Limestone and calcite are soluble in acid, even in weak acid -such as carbonic acid, HHCO_{3}, also written H_{2}CO_{3}, formed by the -solution of carbon dioxide (CO_{2}) in water. Ground water, found -everywhere in rock openings at different depths beneath the land -surface, contains dissolved carbon dioxide derived from decaying organic -matter in soil, from the atmosphere, and from other sources. Even -rainwater and snow contain a little carbon dioxide absorbed from the -atmosphere--enough to dissolve small amounts of limestone or of calcite -cement from sandstone. The calcite cement in the Entrada and in many -other sandstones is unevenly distributed, however, so that all the -cement is removed first from places that contain the least amounts, and, -once the cement is dissolved away, the loose sand is carried away by -gravity, wind, or water. - -Both nearly flat but slightly irregular beds of sandstone and relatively -thin walls or fins of sandstone are prime targets for this differential -erosion. Potholes, as shown in figure 18_A_, may be formed in relatively -flat beds by the dissolving action of repeated accumulations of -rainwater or snowmelt, even in arid regions like the Plateau. - -Relatively thin walls, or fins as they are called in parts of the -Plateau including Arches, are targets for the formation of alcoves and -caves by solution of cement and removal of sand by gravity, wind, and -water, aided by the prying action of frost in joints, bedding planes, or -other openings. Once a breakthrough of a wall or fin occurs, weakened -chunks from the ceiling tend to fall, and natural arches of various -shapes and sizes are produced. Arches form the strongest shapes for -supporting overlying rock loads, as the rock in the arch is compressed -toward each abutment by the heavy loads. Blocks of compressed rock -beneath a relatively flat ceiling tend to be dislodged also by expansion -due to release of pent-up pressure, until a strong self-supporting arch -is formed. Release of pent-up pressure in rock walls may help also in -initiating the formation of alcoves or caves in cliff faces. Man, -including the ancient Greeks, Romans, Egyptians, and others, has long -made use of arches in building bridges, aqueducts, temples, cathedrals, -and other enduring edifices. - -As vividly shown in figure 12, the Entrada Sandstone on the northeast -flank of the Salt Valley anticline has been broken by Earth forces into -thin slabs mostly 10 to 20 feet thick between nearly parallel joints, -but, as will be noted in the descriptions of individual arches, some -rock walls are only 1 or 2 feet thick, whereas others are 50 feet thick -or more. Some weak or thin slabs have weathered away, leaving the -stronger or thicker ones as towering fins, particularly in the Fiery -Furnace and Devils Garden areas. Jointing on a less spectacular scale -also has broken the Entrada in areas south of Salt Valley, leaving walls -or fins of rock. - - [Illustration: TUNNEL ARCH, reached by short trail north of main - trail through Devils Garden. Opening is 26-1/2 feet wide and 22 feet - high; span is about 14 feet thick. (Fig. 14)] - -Although all the arches in the park were carved from the Entrada -Sandstone, slight differences in their mode of origin or placement -within the Entrada allow them to be grouped into three classes: (1) -vertical arches formed in the Slick Rock Member alone or in the Slick -Rock and Moab Members, (2) vertical arches formed mainly in the Slick -Rock Member but partly in, and with the aid of, the incompetent -underlying Dewey Bridge Member, and (3) horizontal arches, or so-called -pothole arches, formed from the union of a vertical pothole and a -horizontal cave. Hereinafter, the three members will be referred to -alone, without reference to the Entrada. - - [Illustration: "BABY ARCH," just southwest of Sheep Rock in - Courthouse Towers area. For details, see text. (Fig. 15)] - -Before giving examples of arches in each of the three classes, it is -appropriate to remark that the arches and other erosion forms in the -park represent but a fleeting instant in geologic time. Many of the -pinnacles or piles of rock may be the broken remains of former arches, -and many of the arches we see may be gone tomorrow, next year, or a few -hundreds of years and, certainly, before many thousands of years. On the -other hand, many new arches will form by the processes described above -as the geologic clock ticks on. - - [Illustration: BROKEN ARCH, reached by a 1/2-mile trail leading - northward across field that separates Fiery Furnace from Devils - Garden. White thin-bedded unit at top is the Moab Member, which - rests upon the massive salmon-colored Slick Rock Member. Opening is - 59 feet wide and 43 feet high. (Fig. 16)] - - - Examples of Arches - -Tunnel Arch (fig. 14) is a good example of an arch eroded entirely -within the massive Slick Rock Member. Just southwest of Sheep Rock (fig. -31) is an unnamed opening in the lower part of the Slick Rock Member -which I call "Baby Arch," because it is one of the newest ones visible -from the park road (fig. 15). It is only 25-1/2 feet wide and 14 feet -high and penetrates a wall 14 feet thick. Note that the breakthrough -probably began along the prominent recessed bedding plane at the base of -the arch. Its youthfulness is also indicated by the sharp, angular -breaks in the ceiling and by the pile of freshly fallen rocks. Some -visitors have asked park personnel why they have not cleared away such -debris! Despite its youthfulness, the ceiling has already taken on the -shape of an arch. - -Broken Arch (fig. 16) was formed near the top of the Slick Rock Member -and is strengthened and protected by the more resistant overlying Moab -Member, which forms the upper half of the span. The crest is only 6 feet -thick at the thinnest point and is not broken as the name seems to -imply. - -Double Arch (fig. 17), "one" of the most beautiful in the park, is in -The Windows section near the east end of the road. The southeast arch, -which is 160 feet wide and 105 feet high, is the second largest in the -park, but the west arch measures only 60 feet wide and 61 feet high. In -common with most arches in The Windows section, these two arches of the -Slick Rock Member rest upon bases of the weak, easily eroded Dewey -Bridge Member. More rapid erosion of the Dewey Bridge undercut the -arches and hastened their development. - - [Illustration: DOUBLE ARCH, in The Windows section. (Fig. 17)] - - [Illustration: PROBABLE STEPS IN FORMATION OF POTHOLE ARCH. _A_, - Original pothole probably formed in relatively level bed of - sandstone, such as this one, which is in an older rock unit--the - White Rim Sandstone Member of the Cutler Formation, a unit not - present in Arches. This pothole, which contains 4 feet of water, is - in nearby Canyonlands National Park (Lohman, 1974, fig. 17), just - north of the edge of the White Rim, about 4-1/2 miles north of the - confluence of the Green and Colorado Rivers. Photograph by E. N. - Hinrichs. _B_, Pothole is being deepened by solution while cliff is - receding toward pothole by weathering. _C_, As erosion continues, - pothole and cave in cliff face are growing deeper. _D_, Pothole Arch - formed by union of vertical pothole and horizontal cave. _E_, - Telephoto view of Pothole Arch from park road near stop 14. Visible - span is 90 feet across and 30 feet high. (Fig. 18)] - - [Illustration: Fig. 18 B] - - [Illustration: Fig. 18 C] - - [Illustration: Fig. 18 D] - - [Illustration: Fig. 18 E] - -The cause of the wavy bedding in the Dewey Bridge Member, as shown in -figure 17 but as better shown in the frontispiece, is not known for sure -but generally is regarded to be the result of irregular slumping during -or just after deposition of the sediments in a body of water, caused by -the weight of overlying sediments. - -The last example I shall take up is Pothole Arch (fig. 18), which -differs from all the other examples in that this arch is roughly -horizontal rather than vertical. Most park visitors, including me, were -not aware of this interesting feature until after publication of the -pamphlet "The Guide to an Auto Tour of Arches National Park," which, as -previously noted, may be purchased at the Visitor Center. Pothole Arch -caps a ridge high above the road half a mile northwest of Garden of -Eden, so only those who happened to look up at the right place were -aware of its existence. - -A different mode of origin than that given in the caption for figure 18 -is depicted on a poster in the Visitor Center, which shows the pothole -being formed by a waterfall having an apparent flow rate of several -cubic feet per second. Potholes can be formed in this manner in places -where sufficient streamflow is available, either continuously or -following rainstorms, but I believe the process depicted in figure 18 is -a more likely mode of origin for Pothole Arch. - - - - - How to See the Park - - -As aptly stated on a poster in the Visitor Center, how to see the park -depends in part upon the question "How long can you stay?" Inasmuch as -the park entrance and Visitor Center are beside a through U.S. Highway -(163), many motorists first become aware of the park's existence from -the entrance sign, and some take time for at least a quick visit, such -as a round trip to The Windows section, which can be made in an hour or -so. - -For those who have or take more time and are able to walk at least short -distances, a visit of 1 or 2 days is a very rewarding experience. -Others, particularly avid shutterbugs and those with camping gear, -profitably spend from several days to a week or more and hike all or -most of the trails. - -Regardless of how long you plan to spend, I urge at least a brief stop -at the Visitor Center, where excellent displays and a narrated slide -show help materially in conveying just what the park has to offer. At -the counter you can purchase a copy of "The Guide to an Auto Tour of -Arches National Park," which explains the views from each of 25 numbered -stops along the park road, as well as other reports describing arches or -other parks and monuments. - -The park is open the year round, but, like most high deserts, it gets -rather hot in the summer and cold enough in the winter for occasional -snows and is sometimes closed temporarily because of heavy snowfall. The -weather generally is ideal during the spring and fall. Even though -summer daytime temperatures may exceed 100F (37.8C) and slow down -hikers, the nights are cool enough for comfortable sleeping beneath -ample covers. - -Before beginning our trip through the park proper, let us consider a -beautiful part many people fail to realize actually belongs to the -park--the Colorado River canyon forming the southeastern boundary. - - [Illustration: Petroglyph figure] - - - - -A Trip Through The Park - - - Colorado River Canyon - -The southeastern boundary of the park for about 11 miles is the Colorado -River, from the bridge on which U.S. Highway 163 crosses the river to a -point upstream about half a mile below the mouth of Salt Wash. -Illuminated night float trips down part of this reach are run during the -summer, as noted on p. 16. Partly paved State Highway 128 follows the -southeast side of the river for about 30 miles to Dewey Bridge, then -goes northward about 15 miles to Cisco, where it connects with Highway -I-70. - -The rocks of the Glen Canyon Group form the southernmost corner of the -park, as shown in figure 19. About 2 miles northeast of the bridge, we -cross the axis of the Courthouse syncline (fig. 9), which brings the -Navajo Sandstone down nearly to river level, as shown in figure 20. The -underlying Kayenta Formation is largely hidden by vegetation and -alluvial deposits in this view. - - [Illustration: GLEN CANYON GROUP, forming southernmost point of - park, as viewed across the Colorado River from State Highway 128 - half a mile above Moab bridge carrying U.S. Highway 163. Massive - sandstone forming about the lower third of cliff is the Wingate - Sandstone, darker thin-bedded sandstones and mudstones forming - middle section of cliff comprise the Kayenta Formation, upper cliff - is the lower part of the Navajo Sandstone. Note that the saltcedar - (tamarisk), which lines both banks of the river, is in full bloom. - (Fig. 19)] - - [Illustration: NAVAJO SANDSTONE CLIFFS, bordering west bank of - Colorado River in Courthouse syncline, from State Highway 128 about - 2 miles above the Moab bridge. Note rounded domes at top of cliff. - (Fig. 20)] - - [Illustration: MOUTH OF SALT WASH, viewed across Colorado River from - point on State Highway 128, 11 miles above Moab bridge. Dark cliffs - on upper right and left are of Wingate Sandstone capped by thin - protective cover of resistant sandstone beds of the Kayenta - Formation. In background Wingate is overlain by entire Kayenta - Formation and lower part of the Navajo Sandstone. Wingate is - underlain to river level by weathered slope of the Chinle Formation. - Water in Salt Wash is largely backwater from the bankfull river; - actual flow in wash generally is much less but at times reaches - flood proportions. (Fig. 21)] - -About 11 miles above the Moab bridge is the mouth of Salt Wash (fig. 1), -as viewed from State Highway 128. (See fig. 21.) Seventeen miles above -the bridge (east of area shown in fig. 1), we get an excellent view of -the southeast end of the highly faulted Cache Valley anticline, as shown -in figure 22. The background shown in the photograph formerly was the -easternmost part of the former monument, but when the monument graduated -to a park on November 16, 1971, this part of Cache Valley along with -most of Dry Mesa was withdrawn from the park and put under the -supervision of the Bureau of Land Management, also a part of the -Department of the Interior. - - [Illustration: SOUTHEAST END OF FAULTED CACHE VALLEY ANTICLINE, - viewed northwestward across Colorado River from a point on State - Highway 128, 17 miles above Moab bridge. High cliff of Wingate - Sandstone on left is capped by thin protective layer of the Kayenta - Formation. About upper third of slope below base of cliff is the - Chinle Formation, below which is the Moenkopi Formation extending to - high-water level. Note bent and broken beds on right. (Fig. 22)] - -As noted on page 16, part of "Run, Cougar, Run" was filmed just upstream -from the irrigated field in the foreground of figure 22, in a wide part -of the valley called Professor Valley (fig. 7). This valley and the -Richardson Amphitheater on the southeast side of the river were named -after a Professor Richardson who settled in the area in the 1880's. The -long abandoned townsite of Richardson was 1-1/4 miles due east from the -point from which figure 22 was taken. - - - Headquarters Area - -The junction of the park road with U.S. Highway 163 is shown at the -lower left of figure 23, and the entrance station, Visitor Center, -parking lot, and several buildings are seen at the lower right. Several -residences for park personnel and other buildings are shown in figure -25. As shown in the lower part of figure 23, the geology at the park -entrance is rather complex, as the park boundary here is partly along -the Moab fault and partly along a branch fault--both in the Seven -Mile-Moab Valley anticline (fig. 7). The Moab fault extends -northwestward from Moab for more than 30 miles (McKnight, 1940, p. 120, -121, pl. 1). - -As shown in figure 23, soon after leaving the checking station the park -road begins to ascend the first of several switchbacks, and cuts first -into the Slick Rock Member, then the Dewey Bridge Member, and finally -the Navajo Sandstone the rest of the way to and beyond the top of the -hill. - -From points a mile or so up the hill may be seen interesting features in -several directions.[5] The view to the southwest is shown in figure 23, -to the west are the Three Penguins (fig. 24). A good view of the Moab -Valley is had by looking southeastward (fig. 25). A well in the Navajo -Sandstone at the base of the hill supplies water to all the residences -and to the Visitor Center, where a drinking fountain and modern -restrooms are available to the public. Storage is provided by a steel -tank hidden in a ravine above the buildings shown in figure 25. - -To the north the wall of Entrada Sandstone is cut by a normal fault -(fig. 6), as shown in figure 26. - - [Illustration: FAULTED SEVEN MILE-MOAB VALLEY ANTICLINE. Top, View - toward the southwest from park road about 1 mile above entrance - station. Bottom, Geologic interpretation of photograph in part after - McKnight (1940, pl. 1). Moab fault and branch fault (both normal - faults, fig. 6) unite just beyond ridge of Slick Rock Member. Total - vertical displacement along both faults is about 2,500 feet. H.F., - unnamed upper member of Hermosa Formation; M.F., Moenkopi Formation; - D, downthrown side of faults; U, upthrown side. Valley fill and - slope wash of recent (Holocene) age obscure faults and underlying - rocks. The original sequence of the rocks may be visualized by - placing the Navajo Sandstone, the upper part of which is exposed at - the lower right, on top of the Kayenta Formation, the lower few feet - of which cap and protect the cliffs of Wingate Sandstone in the - background. The Pacific Northwest (gas) Pipeline mentioned on page - 15 is buried beneath the slice of the Moenkopi Formation between the - two faults, which accounts for the disturbed appearance of the rock. - (Fig. 23)] - - [Illustration: Geologic interpretation of photograph] - - [Illustration: THREE PENGUINS, viewed westward from park road about - 1 mile above entrance station. Penguins are carved in massive Slick - Rock Member seen resting upon thin-bedded Dewey Bridge Member. (Fig. - 24)] - - [Illustration: MOAB VALLEY, viewed southeastward from park road - about 1 mile above entrance station. Moab fault in about middle of - valley, hidden beneath recent (Holocene) valley fill and slope wash, - separates unnamed upper member of Hermosa Formation just above U.S. - Highway 163 on right from Navajo Sandstone forming hills on left and - ledges in foreground. Park Service residences at base of hill. White - patch bordering Colorado River on northwest is tailings pile of - Atlas Corporation's uranium mill. Moab and Spanish Valley are beyond - river, and south end of La Sal Mountains forms distant skyline. - (Fig. 25)] - - [Illustration: FAULTED WALL OF ENTRADA SANDSTONE, north of park road - about 1 mile above entrance station. Fault is nearly vertical and - normal (fig. 6), but fault trace slopes steeply downward to right, - separating upthrown Slick Rock and Dewey Bridge Members on left from - downthrown Slick Rock Member on right. Light-colored rock in - foreground is Navajo Sandstone. Displacement probably does not - exceed 50 feet. (Fig. 26)] - - [Illustration: PARK AVENUE, viewed to the north along trail. (Fig. - 27)] - - - Courthouse Towers Area - -About 2.3 miles from the entrance station is a turnoff and parking area -at the south end of the Park Avenue trail (stop 2), which is about 1 -mile long and ends at another parking area 1.7 miles farther north. An -interesting hike is best made from south to north in a downhill -direction, and hikers generally meet the cars of relatives or friends -awaiting them at the northern parking area. The trail begins in a canyon -cut in the soft Dewey Bridge Member and walled by high fins of the Slick -Rock Member (fig. 27), but farther north the canyon is floored by the -bare Navajo Sandstone. The avenue was named from the resemblance of the -east wall to a row of tall buildings. Atop the west wall, just to the -left of the view in figure 27, are two balanced rocks (fig. 28). The one -on the left, which resembles somewhat the head of an Egyptian queen, is -offset to the right along a bedding plane, and this offset may have been -caused by an earthquake. - -As we progress toward Courthouse Towers proper, lofty fins and monoliths -lie mostly on our left, and to the right are fine distant views of the -La Sal Mountains (stop 4). A general view of the Courthouse Towers is -shown in figure 29, and closeups of two of the named rock -sculptures--the Three Gossips and Sheep Rock--are shown in figures 30 -and 31. Just beyond Sheep Rock, which some think resembles the Sphinx, -we see "Baby Arch," shown in figure 15. - -Five miles from the entrance station, the road crosses Courthouse Wash -on a modern bridge (stop 6)--a distinct improvement over the two tracks -in the sand we used in 1946. The Courthouse syncline, named after the -wash, extends northwestward through here. (See figs. 8, 9, 20.) About a -mile west of the bridge, Professor Stevens found another pothole arch. A -mile and a half north of the bridge is stop 7, where attention is called -in the booklet to the vast area of "petrified dunes" east of the road, -which are simply dunelike exposures of the crossbedded Navajo Sandstone -formed originally by the cementation of a vast area of sand dunes. My -view of these was taken about 1 mile beyond the stop (fig. 32). - - [Illustration: BALANCED ROCKS ON SOUTH WALL OF PARK AVENUE, at south - end of trail. (Fig. 28)] - - [Illustration: COURTHOUSE TOWERS, viewed to the northwest from point - on park road about three-fourths of a mile northeast of the south - end of Park Avenue trail. Sandstone towers are Slick Rock Member - resting on Dewey Bridge Member, which also forms foreground. Three - Gossips at upper left, Sheep Rock just beyond. The Organ and Tower - of Babel are on right. (Fig. 29)] - - [Illustration: THE THREE GOSSIPS, shown at upper left of figure 29. - (Fig. 30)] - - [Illustration: SHEEP ROCK, shown on center-left skyline in figure - 29. (Fig. 31)] - -West of the road between the petrified dunes and The Windows section, -the Entrada Sandstone, particularly the Dewey Bridge Member, has been -weathered into grotesque spires and pinnacles resembling the so-called -"hoodoos and goblins" in Goblin Valley State Park, just north of -Hanksville, Utah. Typical examples of "hoodoos and goblins" are shown in -figure 33 (near stop 8). It seems reasonable to assume that some of -these spires are the skeletal remains of former arch abutments. From -here may be seen North and South Windows and Turret Arch on the skyline -to the northeast (figs. 37-40). - - [Illustration: PETRIFIED SAND DUNES, looking northeast from park - road 2.7 miles north of Courthouse Wash. The Navajo Sandstone was - once a huge sandpile of dunes laid down by winds during an arid - interval, so it is interesting to note that the irregularly - weathered sandstone once again resembles a pile of crossbedded - dunes. See also figure 35. (Fig. 32)] - - [Illustration: "HOODOOS AND GOBLINS," weathered from Dewey Bridge - Member, viewed northwest from park road about 2-1/2 miles north of - Courthouse Wash. (Fig. 33)] - - - The Windows Section - -The Windows section, one of the most beautiful parts of the park, once -was the only readily accessible part of the former monument and is still -the only collection of arches seen by many visitors who either do not -have or do not take time to travel farther north. All the arches and -erosion forms are on or near a high crest called Elephant Butte (Dane, -1935, p. 126, 127), which separates Salt Valley from the Courthouse -syncline. The ridge also marks the south edge of several minor -anticlines and synclines termed by Dane the "Elephant Butte folds." - - [Illustration: EYE OF THE WHALE, one of several arches in Herdina - Park, just south of jeep trail about 2 miles northwest of Balanced - Rock. Cut in Slick Rock Member. Front opening is 60 feet wide and 27 - feet high, but back opening is only 35 feet wide and 11 feet high. - Photograph by Professor Dale J. Stevens, Brigham Young University. - (Fig. 34)] - -Guarding the approach to The Windows section is Balanced Rock (stop 9). -As shown in the frontispiece, it is accompanied on the right by another -balanced rock and a third one may be seen in the distance. The original -route to The Windows section, pioneered by Goulding, passed just north -of Balanced Rock. Traces of the old road between here and the Garden of -Eden parking area are still visible but no longer used. To the west, -however, a part of the old road is the starting point of a jeep trail -leading northwestward through Herdina Park to a point near Klondike -Bluffs, where it joins the dirt road in Salt Valley (fig. 1). Visitors -having four-wheel-drive vehicles may wish to drive at least as far as -Eye of The Whale (fig. 34), which is about 2 miles northwest of Balanced -Rock. There are several picnic tables at the beginning of this jeep -trail, but no water. - - [Illustration: INTRICATE CROSSBEDS IN NAVAJO SANDSTONE, on north - side of road between Garden of Eden and Cove of Caves. Red crest is - basal part of Dewey Bridge Member. (Fig. 35)] - -Just beyond Balanced Rock, a branch paved road turns eastward 2-1/2 -miles to the main parking lots in The Windows section. Between the -Garden of Eden (stop 13) and Cove of Caves are spectacular exposures of -the Navajo Sandstone showing the crossbedding typical of the original -dunes (fig. 35). Just east of the crossbedded Navajo Sandstone, shown in -figure 35, we pass Cove Arch and Cove of Caves (stop 10) on the north -side of the road (fig. 36). - -Just around the curve east of Cove of Caves is the first of two parking -lots (stop 11) forming a one-way loop at the end of this branch of the -road. From the loop may be seen the greatest concentration of readily -accessible arches in the park, all of which are roofed by the Slick Rock -Member and floored by the Dewey Bridge Member. Let us take the short -paved trail from the upper lot to the southeast, where we come first to -North Window (fig. 37). If we walk through this arch and climb the rock -beyond (fig. 37 caption), we see one of the best views in the park (fig. -38). A short walk south of North Window brings us to South Window (fig. -39). The other side of this arch may be reached either by walking around -the nearby southeast end of the fin or by walking through North Window. -A short walk to the southwest brings us to Turret Arch--the one seen -through North Window in figure 38. Figure 40 was taken from the -southwest side of Turret Arch, viewed northeastward toward South Window, -one corner of which appears at the left. Both North and South Windows -may be seen in one photograph taken from points near Turret Arch. - - [Illustration: COVE ARCH AND COVE OF CAVES, on north side of road - just west of Double Arch and Parade of Elephants. Arch at left and - three of the caves on right are roofed by Slick Rock Member and - floored by Dewey Bridge Member. Arch is 48-1/2 feet wide and 34 feet - high. In time the caves will eat through the 30-foot-thick fin and - become arches. Note sharp contact between Dewey Bridge Member and - Navajo Sandstone. (Fig. 36)] - - [Illustration: NORTH WINDOW, viewed to the northeast. Large rock - seemingly partly blocking left end of arch actually is the southeast - end of a fin some 50 feet or more beyond the arch, from which figure - 38 was taken. Arch is 93 feet wide and 51 feet high. (Fig. 37)] - -From the lower parking lot (stop 12), a short walk by paved trail takes -us to spectacular Double Arch, shown in figure 17. This arch is visible -from the parking lot but is best seen and photographed from at or near -the end of the trail. Looking westward from near the trail's end, we see -the Parade of Elephants, shown in figure 41. This feature is described -on pages 16 and 17 of "The Guide to an Auto Tour of Arches National -Park" as "whimsical stone statuary resembling a circus pachyderm parade. -With tail in trunk, the elephants rumble toward you along a sandstone -roadway." - -Ribbon Arch, on the north side of Elephant Butte, is one of the most -delicate ones in the park (fig. 1). Although it is 50 feet wide and 55 -feet high, the rock span is only 1-1/2 feet wide and 1 foot thick. - -On the way back to the intersection with the main park road, we pass -stop 14, from which may be seen Pothole Arch (fig. 18). One and one-half -miles north of the intersection with the main road is the Panorama Point -parking area (stop 15), which affords fine distant views of Salt and -Cache Valleys and points beyond. A roadside exhibit portrays the gradual -development of the Salt Valley anticline, which supplements my -description on pages 27-32. A parking space a short distance farther -down the hill (stop 16) provides good distant views of the Fiery -Furnace. I tried several telephoto shots from this viewpoint, but -preferred my closeup views, such as the one shown in figure 44. - - [Illustration: LOOKING SOUTHWESTWARD THROUGH NORTH WINDOW, from fin - shown beyond left side of North Window in figure 37. Turret Arch - (fig. 40) is seen at right middle ground, south rim of Moab Valley - to left of arch, Colorado River canyon forms left skyline. (Fig. - 38)] - - [Illustration: SOUTH WINDOW, viewed toward northeast. Arch is 105 - feet wide and 66 feet high. See text. (Fig. 39)] - - - Delicate Arch Area - -Two and a half miles northeast of the road intersection near Balanced -Rock, a gravelled side road leads northeastward to several points of -considerable interest. The photograph in figure 11 was taken from this -side road about half a mile northeast of the intersection. About 2 miles -to the northeast, just beyond Salt Valley Wash, is a parking area (stop -17) at the beginning of the trail past Wolfe's Bar-DX Ranch (fig. 3) to -famed Delicate Arch, which is featured on the front cover. Although the -trail to the arch is only 1-1/2 miles long, it crosses several hills at -the outset, then climbs 500 feet, mostly on bare Entrada Sandstone, so -is considered quite strenuous, particularly in hot weather. The Park -Service advises hikers to carry water. The Walt Disney crew, cameras, -gear, cougars, and all climbed this trail in the hottest part of the -summer of 1971 (see p. 16), while my wife and I were working in the -vicinity. Visitors who do not wish to make the hike may get a distant -view of Delicate Arch by driving to a parking area (stop 18) 1.3 miles -farther east. - - [Illustration: TURRET ARCH, viewed northeast toward South Window, - part of which is visible on left. Small opening on right is visible - also in figure 38. Largest arch is 39 feet wide and 64 feet high; - smaller one is 12 feet wide and 13 feet high. A still smaller one, - not visible in the photograph, is 8 feet wide and only 4-1/2 feet - high. (Fig. 40)] - - [Illustration: PARADE OF ELEPHANTS, viewed west from end of trail to - Double Arch. Two elephants are on right, one on left. (Fig. 41)] - -After leaving Wolfe's Ranch, the trail to Delicate Arch crosses Salt -Wash on a suspension foot bridge (fig. 42). Just beyond the bridge, a -short walk to the left (north) leads to the Ute petroglyphs shown in the -lower photograph of figure 2. The most difficult part of the trail, on -bare sandstone, is marked by cairns of stones placed at sufficient -intervals to keep hikers from losing the barely visible trail. When the -summit finally is reached and the last corner rounded, one suddenly sees -perhaps the most sublime view in the park--famed Delicate Arch, framing -part of the La Sal Mountains beyond (fig. 43). This graceful arch and -mighty Landscape Arch (fig. 53) were considered to be in serious -jeopardy during the era of sonic booms, but hopefully this danger now is -past. (See p. 16-17.) - -It may be of interest to shutterbugs that professional photographer Hal -Rumel lugged an 8- x 10-inch camera plus a heavy tripod and accessories -up the steep trail to get the excellent photograph of Delicate Arch -shown in figure 43. The late afternoon sun intensified the red somewhat, -but my shots made earlier in the day using both 4- x 5-inch and 35-mm -equipment resulted in unwanted shadows, even though the salmon color of -the Slick Rock Member was more nearly normal. - -After leaving the junction with the side road, the main park road -traverses slices of vertical strata squeezed between faults along the -north side of Salt Valley, then gradually climbs out of the valley for -about 2 miles to a parking area (stop 19), from which good views are had -of the southeast end of Salt Valley and of the grabens in the west end -of Cache Valley. (See fig. 11.) - - [Illustration: Petroglyph figure] - - [Illustration: SUSPENSION FOOT BRIDGE ACROSS SALT WASH, in front of - Wolfe's cabin at beginning of Delicate Arch trail. (Fig. 42)] - - [Illustration: DELICATE ARCH, from end of trail 1-1/2 miles above - Wolfe's Ranch. The opening is 33 feet wide and 45 feet high. The - left abutment is only 5 feet wide at the narrowest point. The arch - is carved near the top of the Slick Rock Member, and the top of the - span, 19 feet thick, is capped by a few feet of the more resistant - Moab Member, as is Broken Arch (fig. 16). Photograph by Hal Rumel, - Salt Lake City. (Fig. 43)] - - - Fiery Furnace - -About half a mile farther uphill is a parking area for viewing the -southeastern part of the Fiery Furnace (stop 20), a vast array of -towering fins and pinnacles of the reddish Slick Rock Member separated -by narrow slots, vaguely resembling flames shooting skyward. The view of -the Fiery Furnace in figure 44 was taken about 1 mile farther up the -hill. It is not difficult to get lost among this myriad of fins and -narrow slots, so ranger-guided tours are conducted during the summer. - -About 1 mile farther northwest is a parking area (stop 23) from which a -short walk to the north end of Fiery Furnace leads to a narrow slot -between high fins (fig. 45), along which a short sandy trail leads to a -recess along the southwest wall containing Sand Dune Arch (fig. 46). -This hidden arch receives sunshine only near the middle of the day and -is a delightful, shady place to rest. - -From the entrance to the slot leading to Sand Dune Arch, a trail goes -half a mile north across an open field to Broken Arch, shown in figure -16. This field, which separates the Fiery Furnace and Devils Garden -areas, is seen from the air in figure 12. - - [Illustration: Petroglyph figure] - - [Illustration: FIERY FURNACE, viewed northwest along park road about - 1 mile northwest from stop 20. Fins and spires are of the jointed - Slick Rock Member (fig. 12), but the top of the Dewey Bridge Member - is seen to the right of the curve in the road. (Fig. 44)] - - [Illustration: TRAIL TO SAND DUNE ARCH, looking northwest away from - arch, between towering fins of Slick Rock Member, at northwest end - of Fiery Furnace. Southeast end of Devils Garden in distance. (Fig. - 45)] - - [Illustration: SAND DUNE ARCH, in recess along southwest wall of - narrow slot shown in figure 45. Slick Rock Member. (Fig. 46)] - - - Salt Valley and Klondike Bluffs - -Before proceeding to the end of the paved road, let us take an -unimproved side road, which turns south about a third of a mile beyond -the last stop, in order to see more of Salt Valley and to visit Klondike -Bluffs in the northwestern part of the park. After descending 2.3 miles -of winding road we reach the normally dry bed of Salt Valley Wash, and -turn abruptly to the northwest. For the next three-fourths of a mile the -"road" is simply two tracks in the loose, sandy bed of the wash, which -obviously should not be travelled when flooded or when there is even a -hint of rain. In dry weather, however, this road may be travelled by -ordinary passenger car. This stretch of the wash cuts through an -intruded block of the Paradox Member of the Hermosa Formation consisting -mainly of gray and brown gypsum, the common salt having been dissolved -out by ground water. Such an intrusive block of salt-bearing rock is -known to geologists as a diapir--not to be confused with the garment -(diaper) worn by infants. - -From here on the road traverses a rather uninteresting stretch of valley -north of Salt Valley Wash. Eleven miles from the starting point, the -road reaches an intersection from which a side road leads southwestward -three-fourths of a mile to a parking area at the foot of Klondike -Bluffs, which form the south side of Salt Valley. From here, one may -make a strenuous hike over a primitive trail about 1-1/2 miles long to -beautiful Tower Arch (fig. 47). - -The valley road continues northwestward from the intersection to and -beyond the northwest end of the park and connects with roads to Crescent -Junction, Thompson, and the Yellow Cat mining district, north of the -park (p. 14). - -Let us return to the paved road and continue our tour of the park. - - - Devils Garden - -Turning left (northwest) at the intersection with the paved park road, -we enter Devils Garden--another large maze of towering red fins -separated by narrow slots, which resembles the Fiery Furnace. After a -third of a mile, we reach stop 24 and walk 100 feet or more to the north -for a good view of Skyline Arch (fig. 48). This arch is very -appropriately named, as it forms the skyline viewed either from the road -on the south or from the campground on the north, from points south of -the amphitheater. Less well known is the fact that Skyline Arch is -clearly visible to the naked eye or through binoculars from stretches of -Highway I-70 (or old U.S. Highways 6 and 50) about 11 miles to the -north. Most arches and other erosion forms do not change appearance much -from day to day or year to year, but some, like "Baby Arch" (fig. 15), -show evidence of relatively recent origin. In November 1940 (Abbey, -1971, p. 42) Skyline Arch suddenly doubled in size by the fall of a -large rock that occupied what is now the northwest half of the arch. -Photographs taken before and after this event appear on pages 24 and 25 -of the road guide and also in the museum at the Visitor Center. - - [Illustration: TOWER ARCH, on Klondike Bluffs, viewed eastward. Arch - is in Slick Rock Member but tower on left, after which arch was - named, is capped by a protective layer of the resistant Moab Member. - Opening is 88 feet wide and 43 feet high. Photograph by Robert D. - Miller. (Fig. 47)] - - [Illustration: SKYLINE ARCH, viewed north from point about 100 feet - north of stop 24, in Slick Rock Member. Although fins are vertical, - note that the strata seem to dip about 15 to the right, although - the actual dip is to the northeast. (See fig. 50.) (Fig. 48)] - -Another half mile brings us to a one-way (to right) loop at the end of -the park road. Just beyond the beginning of the loop is a parking lot -and very attractive picnic area containing several picnic tables shaded -by pion pines at the foot of a towering red fin of the Slick Rock -Member. Just north of this picnic ground, a paved side road leads -eastward into a truly beautiful, well-equipped campground comprising -both back-in and drive-through campsites for trailers, campers, or -tents; three pairs of modern restrooms, hydrants, and drinking -fountains; and an amphitheater, where illustrated campfire talks are -given nightly during the summer. The east end of the campground is shown -in figure 49. - - [Illustration: CAMPGROUND IN DEVILS GARDEN, viewed northwestward - across turn-around at southeastern end. (Fig. 49)] - -Devils Garden in general and the campground in particular are on the -crest of a ridge separating Salt Valley to the southwest from the Sagers -Wash syncline to the northeast, which lies north of Yellow Cat Flat and -north of the area shown in figure 1. From the higher parts of the -campground striking views are to be had toward the north and northeast, -particularly late in the afternoon, as shown in figure 50. - - [Illustration: VIEW NORTH FROM CAMPGROUND, in late afternoon. - Reddish Slick Rock Member capped by light-colored Moab Member are - seen dipping northeastward toward Sagers Wash syncline. Book Cliffs, - north of Thompson, are 16 miles north on left skyline. (Fig. 50)] - -In about the middle of the one-way loop at the end of the park road is a -well that supplies water to the campground from early in the spring -until the return of freezing weather late in the fall. The well, which -was drilled in 1962 to a depth of 900 feet, obtains a small amount of -water from the Wingate Sandstone. No water was found in the overlying -Navajo and Entrada Sandstones because of the pronounced dip of the rocks -toward the northeast, which allows any water in these rocks to drain -northeastward (Ted Arnow, written commun., 1963). Water from this well -is pumped to a steel tank in a high part of the campground, whence it -flows by gravity to the three sets of restrooms. - - [Illustration: SOUTHEASTERN PART OF DEVILS GARDEN TRAIL, viewed - northwestward. Narrow slot between fins of Slick Rock Member - indicates local spacing of joints. (Fig. 51)] - -At the northwest end of the one-way loop is a large parking area for use -by people hiking the Devils Garden trail. This trail leads to seven of -the most interesting arches in the park, all of which are in the Slick -Rock Member, and there are many more farther to the northwest. The -approximate distances to the seven arches are given in the paragraphs -that follow. The trail is paved for about 1 mile as far as Landscape -Arch (fig. 53), but from there to Double O Arch (fig. 56) the trail is -primitive, and the Park Service recommends rubber soles as part of the -trail is on bare sandstone. For these reasons, many visitors hike only -as far as Landscape Arch. - - [Illustration: PINE TREE ARCH, viewed northeastward. Opening is 46 - feet wide and 48 feet high. Fin is 30 feet thick. (Fig. 52)] - -Much of the trail, particularly the first part, lies in a narrow slot -between fins of the Slick Rock Member, as shown in figure 51. After -about half a mile, a side trail to the north leads to a Y, the -right-hand fork of which goes to Tunnel Arch (fig. 14). The left-hand -fork leads to Pine Tree Arch, obviously named for the pion pine framed -by this arch (fig. 52). - -At the end of the improved part of the trail, we reach Landscape Arch -(fig. 53), claimed by the Park Service to be the longest known natural -arch in the world. According to Ouellette (1958) it is 291 feet long and -118 feet high, but Professor Stevens' measurements indicate it to be 287 -feet long and 106 feet high. At its thinnest point on the right, the -span is only 11 feet wide and 11 feet thick. In 1958 three young men -made what was claimed to be the second known ascent of Landscape Arch, -using ropes and other climbing gear, after which they walked across -(Ouellette, 1958). This crossing was made with the permission of a park -ranger, but such permission is no longer given, for the safety of both -the arch and of would-be climbers. - -Wall Arch is about a quarter of a mile beyond the end of the improved -part of the trail, and another three-fourths mile brings us to Navajo -Arch (fig. 54) and Partition Arch (fig. 55). A distant view of Partition -Arch may be had just before reaching Landscape Arch. Part of the -remaining trail to Double O Arch (fig. 56) is on the top of a low -sandstone fin, in part between somewhat higher fins and in part above -lower slots. - - [Illustration: LANDSCAPE ARCH, viewed southwestward from near end of - improved part of Devils Garden trail. Note that ground beneath arch - is covered by slope wash and near the middle with what appears to be - a small landslide. Slick Rock Member here is more nearly buff than - salmon colored, because of a smaller content of iron oxide. Fresh - breaks and angular blocks of stone at right abutment indicate - relatively recent rock falls. See text for size. (Fig. 53)] - - [Illustration: NAVAJO ARCH, viewed northeastward from a branch of - Devils Garden trail. One of few arches having a flat soil-covered - floor. Opening is 40-1/2 feet wide. Photograph by National Park - Service. (Fig. 54)] - -Beautiful Double O Arch (fig. 56) is at the end of the Devils Garden -trail about 2-1/2 miles northwest of the trailhead. About half a mile -northwest of the trail's end is a prominent landmark called Dark Angel -(fig. 57), which is visible in figure 12 and from the unimproved road in -Salt Valley. - - [Illustration: PARTITION ARCH, viewed southwestward from near Devils - Garden trail. Arch frames part of south wall of Salt Valley and, on - skyline, mesas south of Moab Valley. Opening is 27-1/2 feet wide and - 26 feet high. A smaller opening to the right measures 8-1/2 feet - wide and 8 feet high. Photograph by Dawn E. Reed. (Fig. 55)] - - [Illustration: DOUBLE O ARCH, viewed about north from northwest end - of Devils Garden trail. Large opening is 71 feet wide and 45 feet - high; small one at lower left is 21 feet wide and 11 feet high. Span - of large opening is 11 feet wide and 6 feet thick. Arch frames a - part of the Book Cliffs about 14 miles to the north. Photograph by - Hildegard Hamilton, Flagstaff, Ariz. (Fig. 56)] - - [Illustration: DARK ANGEL, a shaft of the Slick Rock Member that is - an erosional remnant of a once high, narrow fin. About one-half mile - northwest of Double O Arch. Photograph by National Park Service. - (Fig. 57)] - - [Illustration: "INDIAN-HEAD ARCH," in upper Devils Garden. Arch and - most of head are in Slick Rock Member, top of head is basal part of - Moab Member. Opening is 4 feet wide and 4-1/2 feet high. Photograph - by Professor Dale J. Stevens, Brigham Young University. (Fig. 58)] - - [Illustration: GEOLOGIC TIME SPIRAL, showing the sequence, names, - and ages of the geologic eras, periods, and epochs, and the - evolution of plant and animal life on land and in the sea. The - primitive animals that evolved in the sea during the vast - Precambrian Era left few traces in the rocks because they had not - developed hard parts, such as shells, but hard shell or skeletal - parts became abundant during and after the Paleozoic Era. (Fig. 59)] - - - - - GEOLOGIC TIME - The Age of the Earth - - The Earth is very old--4.5 billion years or more according to recent - estimates. Most of the evidence for an ancient Earth is contained in - the rocks that form the Earth's crust. The rock layers - themselves--like pages in a long and complicated history--record the - surface-shaping events of the past, and buried within them are - traces of life--the plants and animals that evolved from organic - structures that existed perhaps 3 billion years ago. - - Also contained in rocks once molten are radioactive elements whose - isotopes provide Earth scientists with an atomic clock. Within these - rocks, "parent" isotopes decay at a predictable rate to form - "daughter" isotopes. By determining the relative amounts of parent - and daughter isotopes, the age of these rocks can be calculated. - - Thus, the results of studies of rock layers (stratigraphy), and of - fossils (paleontology), coupled with the ages of certain rocks as - measured by atomic clocks (geochronology), attest to a very old - Earth! - -Professor Stevens found 14 arches in what he called upper Devils Garden, -northwest of Double O Arch, and two arches in the northwesternmost -extension of the park known as Eagle Park (fig. 1). One of the unnamed -arches in upper Devils Garden is shown in figure 58. I am tentatively -calling it "Indian-Head Arch," because of the rather obvious -resemblance. - -This ends our journey through Arches National Park, but there remains -for consideration a summary of the principal geologic events leading to -the formation of this beautiful part of the Colorado Plateau and a brief -comparison with the geology of other national parks and monuments on the -Plateau. - - - - - Summary of Geologic History - - -Having finished our geologic trip through Arches National Park, let us -see how the arches and other features fit into the bigger scheme of -things--the geologic age and events of the Earth as a whole, as depicted -in figure 59. As shown in figure 4, the rock strata still preserved in -the park range in age from Pennsylvanian to Cretaceous, or from about -300 million to 100 million years old--a span of about 200 million years. -This seems an incredibly long time, until one notes that the earth is -some 4.5 billion years old, and that our rock pile is but 1/23 or 4-1/2 -percent of the age of the Earth as a whole. Thus, in figure 59, the -rocks exposed in the park occupy only about the left half of the top -whorl of the spiral. - -But this is not the whole story. As indicated earlier, younger Mesozoic -and Tertiary rocks more than 1 mile thick that once covered the area -have been carried away by erosion, and if we include these the span is -increased to about 250 million years, or nearly a full whorl of the -spiral. - -Deep tests for oil and gas tell us that much older rocks underlie the -area, and we have seen that some of these played a part in shaping the -park we see today. In addition to the Precambrian igneous and -metamorphic rocks, there is about 2,000 feet of Paleozoic sedimentary -rocks older than the Pennsylvanian Paradox Member of the Hermosa -Formation, most of which was laid down in ancient seas. This includes -strata of Cambrian, Ordovician, Devonian, Mississippian, and -Pennsylvanian ages (fig. 59). There are some gaps in the rock record -caused by temporary emergence of the land above sea level and erosion of -the land surface before the land again subsided below sea level so that -deposition could resume. Silurian rocks are absent, presumably because, -here, the Silurian Period was dominated by erosion rather than -deposition. - -While Pennsylvanian and Permian rocks were being laid down in and -southwest of the park, a large area to the northeast, called by -geologists the Uncompahgre Highland (because it occupied the same -general area as part of the present Uncompahgre Plateau), rose slowly -above sea level. Whatever Paleozoic rocks were on this rising land plus -part of the underlying Precambrian rocks were eroded and carried by -streams into deep basins to the northeast and southwest. Thus, while -some marine or near-shore deposits were being laid down in and south of -the park, thousands of feet of red beds were being laid down by streams -between the park and what is now the Uncompahgre Plateau. During part of -Middle Pennsylvanian time, a large area, including the park, known as -the Paradox basin, was alternately connected to or cut off from the sea, -so that the water was evaporated during cutoff periods and replenished -during periods when connection with the sea resumed. In these huge -evaporation basins were deposited the salt and gypsum plus some potash -salts and shale that now make up the Paradox Member of the Hermosa -Formation. - -Arches National Park contains four northwesterly trending major -folds--the Salt Valley and Cache Valley salt anticlines, the Courthouse -syncline, and the faulted Moab-Seven Mile anticline, which forms the -southwestern border. How these folds were formed was explained on pages -27-32. The history of their growth, however, was a long one that began -about 300 million years ago in the Pennsylvanian and ended about 50 -million years ago in the early Tertiary. The growth of these folds -occurred in two stages. The first stage, which involved the development -of the salt cores of the anticlines, ended in the Jurassic with the -beginning of Morrison time; the second stage, which involved additional -folding that intensified the magnitude and shape of existing folds, -occurred in the early Tertiary and was followed later by collapse of the -salt anticlines. The formation and collapse of the Salt Valley and Cache -Valley anticlines was accompanied by pronounced jointing (fig. 12), -which allowed differential erosion to produce the tall fins in which the -arches were formed. - -The old Uncompahgre Highland continued to shed debris into the bordering -basins until Triassic time, when it began to be covered by a veneer of -red sandstone and siltstone of the Chinle Formation (Lohman, 1965). The -area remained above sea level during the Triassic Period and most, if -not all, of the Jurassic Period, although the Jurassic Carmel Formation -was laid down in a sea that lay just to the west. - -Late in the Cretaceous Period a large part of Central and Southeastern -United States, including the eastern half of Utah, sank beneath the sea -and received thousands of feet of mud, silt, and some sand that later -compacted into the Mancos Shale. This formation, as well as all younger -and some older strata, has long since been eroded from most of the park -area, but a little of the Mancos is preserved in the Cache Valley graben -(fig. 11), and the entire Mancos Shale and younger rocks are present in -adjacent areas, such as the Book Cliffs north of Green River, Crescent -Junction, and Cisco (figs. 7, 50, 56). - -The land rose above the sea at about the close of the Cretaceous and has -remained above ever since, although inland basins and lakes received -sediment during parts of the Tertiary Period. Compressive forces in the -Earth's crust produced some gentle folding of the strata at the close of -the Cretaceous, but more pronounced folding and some faulting occurred -during the Eocene Epoch, when most of the Rocky Mountains took form. -During the Miocene Epoch igneous rock welled up into older rocks to form -the cores of the nearby La Sal, Abajo, and Henry Mountains. Additional -uplift and some folding occurred in the Pliocene and Pleistocene Epochs. - -Much of the course of the Colorado River was established during the -Miocene Epoch, with some additional adjustments in the late Pliocene and -early Pleistocene Epochs (Hunt, C. B., 1969, p. 67). Erosion during much -of the Tertiary Period and all of the Quaternary Period plus some -sagging and breaking of the crest of the anticlines, brought on by -solution and lateral squeezing of salt beds beneath the Moab-Seven Mile, -Salt Valley, and Cache Valley anticlines, combined to produce the -landscape as we now see it. - -The Precambrian rocks beneath the area are about 1.5 billion years old; -so an enormous span of time is represented by the rocks and events in -and beneath Canyonlands National Park. - -If we consider the geologic formations that make up the national parks -(N.P.), national monuments (N.M.) (excluding small historical or -archaeological ones), Monument Valley, San Rafael Swell, and Glen Canyon -National Recreation Area, all in the Colorado Plateau, it becomes -apparent that certain formations or groups of formations play starring -roles in some parks or monuments, some play supporting roles, and in a -few places the entire cast of rocks gets about equal billing. Let us -compare them and see how and where they fit into the "Geologic Time -Spiral" (fig. 59). - -Dinosaur N.M., with exposed rocks ranging in age from Precambrian to -Cretaceous, covers the greatest time span (nearly 2 billion years), but -has one unit--the Jurassic Morrison Formation--in the starring role, for -this unit contains the many dinosaur fossils that give the monument its -name and fame, although there are several older units in supporting -roles. Grand Canyon N.P. and N.M. are next, with rocks ranging in age -from Precambrian through Permian (excluding the Quaternary lava flows in -the N.M.), but here there is truly a team effort, for the entire cast -gets about equal billing. Canyonlands N.P. stands third in this -category, with rocks ranging from Pennsylvanian to Jurassic, but we -would have to give top billing to the Permian Cedar Mesa Sandstone -Member of the Cutler Formation, from which The Needles, The Grabens, and -most of the arches were sculptured; the Triassic Wingate Sandstone and -the Triassic(?) Kayenta Formation get second billing for their roles in -forming and preserving Island in the Sky and other high mesas. - -Now let us consider other areas with only one or few players in the -cast, beginning at the bottom of the time spiral. Black Canyon of the -Gunnison N.M., cut entirely in rocks of early Precambrian age with only -a veneer of much younger rocks, obviously has but one star in its cast. -Colorado N.M. contains rocks ranging from Precambrian to -Cretaceous--equal to Dinosaur in this respect, but Colorado is unique in -that all the rocks of the long Paleozoic Era and some others are missing -from the cast; of those that remain, the Triassic Wingate and the -Triassic(?) Kayenta are the stars, with strong support from the Jurassic -Entrada Sandstone. - -All the bridges in Natural Bridges N.M. were carved from the Permian -Cedar Mesa Sandstone Member of the Cutler Formation, also one of the -stars in Canyonlands N.P. In Canyon de Chelly (pronounced dee shay) N.M. -and Monument Valley (neither a national park nor a national monument, as -it is owned and administered by the Navajo Tribe), the De Chelly -Sandstone Member of the Cutler Formation--a Permian member younger than -the Cedar Mesa--plays the starring role. - -Wupatki N.M. near Flagstaff, Ariz., stars the Triassic Moenkopi -Formation. Petrified Forest N.P. (which now includes part of the Painted -Desert) has but one star--the Triassic Chinle Formation, in which are -found many petrified logs and stumps of ancient trees. The -Triassic-Jurassic Glen Canyon Group (fig. 19), which includes the -Triassic Wingate Sandstone, the Triassic(?) Kayenta Formation, and the -Triassic(?)-Jurassic Navajo Sandstone, receives top billing in recently -enlarged Capitol Reef N.P., but the Triassic Moenkopi and Chinle -Formations enjoy supporting roles. - -The Triassic(?)-Jurassic Navajo Sandstone, which has a supporting role -in Arches N.P., is the undisputed star of Zion N.P., Rainbow Bridge -N.M., and Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, despite the fact that -the latter is the type locality of the entire Glen Canyon Group. The -Navajo also forms the impressive reef at the east edge of the beautiful -San Rafael Swell, a dome, or closed anticline, now crossed by Highway -I-70 between Green River and Fremont Junction, Utah. - -As we journey upward in the time spiral (fig. 59), we come to the -Jurassic Entrada Sandstone, which stars in Arches N.P., with help from -the underlying Navajo Sandstone, and a supporting cast of both older and -younger rocks. The Entrada also forms the grotesque erosion forms called -"hoodoos and goblins" in Goblin Valley State Park, north of Hanksville, -Utah. - -Moving ever upward in the spiral, we come to the Cretaceous--the age of -the starring Mesaverde Group, in which the caves of Mesaverde N.P. were -formed, and which now house beautifully preserved ruins once occupied by -the Anasazi, the same ancient people who once dwelt in Arches N.P. and -nearby areas. - -This brings us up to the Tertiary Period, during the early part of which -the pink limestones and shales of the Paleocene and Eocene Wasatch -Formation were laid down in inland basins. Beautifully sculptured -cliffs, pinnacles, and caves of the Wasatch star in Bryce Canyon N.P. -and in nearby Cedar Breaks N.M. This concludes our climb up the time -spiral, except for Quaternary volcanoes and some older volcanic features -at Sunset Crater N.M., near Flagstaff, Ariz. - -Thus, one way or another, many rock units formed during the last couple -of billion years have performed on the stage of the Colorado Plateau -and, hamlike, still lurk in the wings eagerly awaiting your applause to -recall them to the footlights. Don't let them down--visit and enjoy the -national parks and monuments of the Plateau, for they probably are the -greatest collection of scenic wonderlands in the world. - - - - - Additional Reading - - -Many reports covering various aspects of the area have been cited in the -text by author and year, and these plus a few additional ones are listed -in "Selected References." A few works of general or special interest -should be mentioned, however. - -Between 1926 and 1929 the entire area now included in the park was -mapped geologically in classic reports by Dane (1935) and by McKnight -(1940). These men and their field assistants mapped the area by use of -the plane-table and telescopic alidade without benefit of modern -topographic maps or aerial photographs, except for topographic maps of -the narrow stretch along the Colorado River mapped under the direction -of Herron (1917). Only small sections could be reached by automobile, so -nearly all the area was traversed using horses and mules or by hiking. -This work plus mapping done in nearby areas to the south and to the -north (Stokes, 1952) during the uranium boom of the mid-fifties was used -by Williams (1964) in compiling a geologic map of the Moab quadrangle at -a scale of 1:250,000. - -Several early reports on the Colorado River and its potential -utilization contain a wealth of information and many fine photographs, -including two by La Rue (1916, 1925) and one by Follansbee (1929). - -You may be interested in brief accounts of the geology of other national -parks and monuments, or other areas of special interest, such as the -reports on the Uinta Mountains by Hansen (1969), Mount Rainier by -Crandell (1969), Yellowstone National Park by Keefer (1971), and ones by -me on Colorado National Monument (Lohman, 1965) and Canyonlands National -Park (1974). - -For those who wish to learn more about the science of geology, I suggest -the textbook by Gilluly, Waters, and Woodford (1968). - - - - - Acknowledgments - - -I am greatly indebted to Bates Wilson, former Superintendent, and to -former Assistant Superintendent Joe Carithers, for their splendid -cooperation in supplying data and information; to Chuck Budge, former -Chief Ranger; Dave May, Assistant Chief of Interpretation and Resource -Management; Joe Miller, former Maintenance Engineer; Bob Kerr, new -Superintendent; Maxine Newell, Park Historian and member of the staff at -Arches National Park; Jerry Banta, former Park Ranger at Arches; and -Carl Mikesell, Park Ranger at Arches, for their many favors. - -I am grateful to several colleagues and friends for the loan of -photographs, for geologic help and data, and for reviewing this report. -I am also deeply grateful to my wife, Ruth, for accompanying me on all -the fieldwork and for her help and encouragement. - - - - - Selected References - - - Abbey, Edward, 1971, Desert solitaire, a season in the wilderness: New - York, Ballantine Books, 303 p. - Baker, A. A., 1933, Geology and oil possibilities of the Moab - district, Grand and San Juan Counties, Utah: U.S. Geol. Survey - Bull. 841, 95 p. - Baker, Pearl, 1971, The Wild Bunch at Robbers Roost: New York, - Aberlard-Schuman, 224 p. - Beckwith, Frank, 1934, A group of petroglyphs near Moab, Utah: Santa - Fe, N. Mex., El Palacio, v. 36, p. 177-178. - Breed, Jack, 1947, Utah's arches of stone: Natl. Geog. Mag., p. - 173-192, August. - Case, J. E., and Joesting, H. R., 1972, Regional geophysical - investigations in the central Colorado Plateau: U.S. Geol. - Survey Prof. Paper 736, 34 p. - Cater, F. W., 1970, Geology of the salt anticline region in - southwestern Colorado: U.S. Geol. Survey Prof. Paper 637, 80 - p. - ---- 1972, Salt anticlines within the Paradox Basin, _in_ Geologic - atlas of the Rocky Mountain region, United States of America: - Denver, Colo., Rocky Mtn. Assoc. of Geologists, p. 137, 138, - fig. 4. - Cleland, H. F., 1910, North American natural bridges, with a - discussion of their origins: Geol. Soc. America Bull., v. 21, - p. 313-338. - Crandell, D. R., 1969, The geologic story of Mt. Rainier: U.S. Geol. - Survey Bull. 1292, 43 p. - Dane, C. H., 1935, Geology of the Salt Valley anticline and adjacent - areas, Grand County, Utah: U.S. Geol. Survey Bull. 863, 184 p. - Dellenbaugh, F. S., 1902, The romance of the Colorado River: New York, - G. P. Putnam's Sons, 399 p. [reprinted 1962 by Rio Grande - Press, Chicago, Ill.] - Everhart, W. C., 1972, The National Park Service, Praeger Library of - U.S. Government Departments and Agencies No. 13: New York, - Praeger Publishers, p. i-xii, 1-276. - Follansbee, Robert, 1929, Upper Colorado River and its utilization: - U.S. Geol. Survey Water-Supply Paper 617, 394 p. - Gilluly, James, Waters, A. C., and Woodford, A. O., 1968, Principles - of geology [3d ed.]: San Francisco, W. R. Freeman & Co., 685 - p. - Hansen, W. R., 1969, The geologic story of the Uinta Mountains [with - graphics by John R. Stacy]: U.S. Geol. Survey Bull. 1291, 144 - p. - Herron, W. R., 1917, Profile surveys in the Colorado River Basin in - Wyoming, Utah, Colorado, and New Mexico: U.S. Geol. Survey - Water-Supply Paper 396, 6 p., 43 pls. - Hite, R. J., 1972, Pennsylvanian rocks, _in_ Geologic atlas of the - Rocky Mountain region, United States of America: Denver, - Colo., Rocky Mtn. Assoc. of Geologists, p. 133-137. - Hite, R. J., and Lohman, S. W., 1973, Geologic appraisal of Paradox - basin salt deposits for waste emplacement: U.S. Geol. Survey - open-file report, 75 p. - Hunt, Alice, 1956, Archeology of southeastern Utah, _in_ Geology and - economic deposits of east-central Utah: Salt Lake City, - Intermountain Assoc. of Petroleum Geologists, 7th Ann. Field - Conf., p. 13-18. - Hunt, C. B., 1956, Cenozoic geology of the Colorado Plateau: U.S. - Geol. Survey Prof. Paper 279, 99 p. - ---- 1969, Geologic history of the Colorado River, _in_ The Colorado - River region and John Wesley Powell: U.S. Geol. Survey Prof. - Paper 669, p. I-IV, 59-130. - Jennings, J. D., 1970, Canyonlands-Aborigines: Naturalist, v. 21, - Summer, Special Issue no. 2, p. 10-15. - Joesting, H. R., Case, J. E., and Plouff, Donald, 1966, Regional - geophysical investigations of the Moab-Needles area, Utah: - U.S. Geol. Survey Prof. Paper 516-C, 21 p. - Keefer, W. R., 1971, The geologic story of Yellowstone National Park, - illustrated by John R. Stacy: U.S. Geol. Survey Bull. 1347, 92 - p. [1972]. - Lansford, Henry, 1972, Boatman in the desert, a passenger-carrying - sternwheeler in canyon country: "Empire" [magazine of the - Denver Post], Nov. 5, p. 18, 19. - La Rue, E. C., 1916, Colorado River and its utilization: U.S. Geol. - Survey Water-Supply Paper 395, 231 p. - ---- 1925, Water power and flood control of Colorado River below Green - River, Utah, with a foreword by Hubert Work, Secretary of the - Interior, p. 1-100. [Appendix A, A report on water supply, by - E. C. La Rue and G. F. Holbrook, p. 101-123; and Appendix B, A - geologic report on the inner gorge of the Grand Canyon of - Colorado River, by R. C. Moore, p. 125-171]: U.S. Geol. Survey - Water-Supply Paper 556, 176 p. - Lohman, S. W., 1965, The geologic story of Colorado National Monument - [with graphics by John R. Stacy]: Fruita, Colo., Colorado and - Black Canyon Natural History Assoc., 56 p. - ---- 1974, The geologic story of Canyonlands National Park, with - graphics by John R. Stacy: U.S. Geol. Survey Bull. 1327, 126 - p. - McKnight, E. T., 1940, Geology of area between Green and Colorado - Rivers, Grand and San Juan Counties, Utah: U.S. Geol. Survey - Bull. 908, 147 p. - Ouellette, C. M., 1958, Over the top of Landscape Arch: Desert Mag., - p. 13-16, March. - Pierson, Lloyd, 1960, Arches National Monument, _in_ Geology of the - Paradox basin fold and fault belt: Durango, Colo., Four - Corners Geol. Soc. Guidebook, 3d Ann. Field Conf., p. 17-21. - Schaafsma, Polly, 1971, Rock art of Utah: Cambridge, Mass., Harvard - Univ., Papers of the Peabody Museum of Archaeology and - Ethnology, v. 65, 169 p. - Stacy, J. R., 1962, Shortcut method for the preparation of - shaded-relief illustrations, _in_ Short papers in geology, - hydrology, and topography 1962: U.S. Geol. Survey Prof. Paper - 450-D, p. D164-D165. - Stokes, W. L., 1952, Uranium-vanadium deposits of the Thompsons area, - Grand County, Utah, with emphasis on the origin of carnotite - ores: Utah Geol. and Mineralogical Survey Bull. 46, 51 p., - December. - ---- 1970, Canyonlands--Geology: Naturalist, v. 21, Summer, Special - Issue no. 2, p. 3-9. - Walters, H. H., 1956, Pacific Northwest Pipeline--The scenic inch, - _in_ Geology and economic deposits of east-central Utah: Salt - Lake City, Intermountain Assoc. of Petroleum Geologists, p. - 169-170. - Williams, P. L., 1964, Geology, structure, and uranium deposits of the - Moab quadrangle, Colorado and Utah: U.S. Geol. Survey Misc. - Geol. Inv. Map I-360. - Wilson, B. E., 1956, Arches National Monument, _in_ Geology and - economic deposits of east-central Utah: Salt Lake City, - Intermountain Assoc. of Petroleum Geologists, 7th Ann. Field - Conf., p. 50-51. - Wright, J. C., Shawe, D. R., and Lohman, S. W., 1962, Definition of - members of the Jurassic Entrada Sandstone in east-central Utah - and west-central Colorado: Bull. Am. Assoc. Petroleum - Geologists, v. 46, no. 11, p. 2057-2070. - - - [Illustration: Petroglyph figure] - - - - -Footnotes - - -[1]Mrs. Tanner, of Phoenix, Ariz., is the author of an earlier history - of Moab (her hometown). She has completed a revision entitled, "The - Far Country--A Regional History of Moab and La Sal, Utah," which - will be serialized in the Moab Times-Independent, after which it - will be published. - -[2]For the benefit of visitors from countries in which the metric system - is used, the following conversion factors may be helpful: 1 inch = - 2.54 centimeters, 1 foot = 0.305 meter, 1 mile = 1.609 kilometers, 1 - U.S. gallon = 0.00379 cubic meter. - -[3]Barrier Creek flows through Horseshoe Canyon in the detached unit of - Canyonlands National Park. The canyon walls are adorned by striking - pictographs (Lohman, 1974, fig. 2). "Barrier Canyon style" is named - after the pictographs found in Horseshoe Canyon. - -[4]Plastic-relief maps are no longer available from the U.S. Army Map - Service but may be obtained from the T. N. Hubbard Scientific Co., - Box 105, Northbrook, Ill. 60062. A topographic map at a scale of - 1:250,000 of the Moab quadrangle and similar maps at a scale of - 1:62,500 for the Thompson, Cisco, Moab, and Castle Valley - quadrangles are available from the U.S. Geological Survey, Denver - Distribution Section, Federal Center, Denver, Colo. 80225, from the - Canyonlands Natural History Association at Moab, and from privately - owned shops where maps are sold. Most of the park is covered by the - Thompson and Moab quadrangles. The southern part of the park is - shown also on the Moab 4 NW, Moab 4 NE, and Mt. Waas 3 NW - quadrangles at a scale of 1:24,000. A special topographic map of - Arches National Park at a scale of 1:50,000 is in preparation by the - U.S. Geological Survey. These maps also may be obtained from the - above-listed sources. - -[5]This is numbered stop 1 in the booklet referred to earlier "The Guide - to an Auto Tour of Arches National Park," and corresponds to the - numeral one on a small sign at the roadside parking place. Some of - the other numbers are given in the pages that follow. - - - - - Index - - - [Italic page numbers indicate major references] - - - A - Page - Abajo Mountains 101 - artifacts 9 - Abbey, Edward 3 - Aborigines, occupation of area 9 - Acknowledgments _105_ - Anasazi people, petroglyphs 10 - Anasazi ruins 9, 103 - Ancestral Colorado River 33 - Anomalies, gravity, Salt Valley 32 - Anticlines, salt 31 - Arches, broken remains 44 - examples _46_ - former abutments 68 - horizontal 44 - how they are formed 42 - natural, defined _40_ - number in the park 40, _41_ - origin and development 37 - pothole 44 - vertical 42, 44 - Artifacts, La Sal and Abajo Mountains 9 - Aspinall, Wayne, Representative 8 - - - B - "Baby Arch" 46, 63, 83 - Balanced Rock 69, 70, 74 - Banta, Jerry 105 - Bar-DX Ranch 12, 13, 14 - "Barrier Canyon style" 10 - Bedding, wavy, Dewey Bridge Member 46 - Beeson, Stib 13 - Beginning of a monument _1_ - Bending of rocks _24_ - Bennett, Wallace F., Senator 8 - Beroni, Pete 14, 15 - Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Monument 102 - Book Cliffs 100 - Breaking of rocks _24_ - Bridge, natural, defined _40_ - Broken Arch 46, 79 - Brown-Stanton expedition, exploration 15 - Bryce Canyon National Park 103 - Budge, Chuck 105 - - - C - Cache Valley 56, 73, 77 - Cache Valley anticline 25, 32, 34, 55, 100, 101 - Cache Valley graben 34, 100 - Campground 86 - water supply 87 - Cane Creek anticline 24 - Canyon de Chelly National Monument 102 - _Canyon King_ 8 - Canyon Lands Section, Colorado Plateau 9, 22 - Canyonlands National Park 3, 9, 15, 102 - Canyonlands Natural History Association 8 - Capitol Reef National Park 103 - Carithers, Joe 105 - Carmel Formation 100 - Cassidy, Butch 12 - Caves, Entrada Sandstone 9 - Cedar Breaks National Monument 103 - Cedar Mesa Sandstone Member, Cutler Formation 22, 102 - Chinle Formation 32, 100, 102, 103 - "Cisco Cutoff" 16 - Civilian Conservation Corps 2 - Cliff dwellers 9 - Climate, desert 35, 51 - wetter, different landscape produced 37 - Collapse, salt anticlines 33, 34 - Color photographs, equipment used 8 - Colorado National Monument 102 - Colorado Plateau, geologic formations included 101 - rock formations 103, 104 - subdivisions 18 - uranium-vanadium mining 14 - Colorado Plateaus Province 18 - Colorado River, course established 101 - nighttime illuminated float trip 16, 52 - Colorado River canyon 35, 51, _52_ - Cores, salt 100 - Corral mine 15 - Courthouse syncline 25, 30, 31, 32, 52, 63, 68, 100 - Courthouse Towers area 25, _63_ - number of arches 41 - Courthouse Wash 2, 3, 18, 35, 63 - Cove Arch 70 - Cove of Caves 70 - Crossbedding, Navajo Sandstone 63, 66, 70 - Cutler Formation 32, 102 - Cedar Mesa Sandstone Member 22 - White Rim Sandstone Member 22 - - - D - Dark Angel 92 - De Chelly Sandstone Member, Cutler Formation 102 - Dead Horse Point 33 - Dedication of the park 8 - Delicate Arch 16, 25, 74, 75, 77 - Delicate Arch area, number of arches 41 - Density, average, Paradox Member 32 - Deposition of rock materials, environments _20_ - Desert varnish 10 - Development of the arches _37_ - Devils Garden 2, 5, 25, 79, _83_, 86 - fins 42 - number of arches 41 - trail 88, 92 - Dewey Bridge 52 - Dewey Bridge Member 46, 63 - Entrada Sandstone, composition 41 - "hoodoos and goblins" 66 - park road cutting 57 - The Windows section 71 - vertical arches 44 - "Dewey Road" 16 - Diapir 83 - Differential erosion 42 - Dinosaur National Monument 101, 102 - Dissimilarity of Arches vs. Canyonlands 23, 24 - Double Arch 2, 46, 72 - Double O Arch 90, 92, 98 - Drainage, Arches National Park 18 - Dry Mesa 5, 56 - - - E - Eagle Park 25, 98 - number of arches 41 - Early dwellers _9_ - Earthquake, rock offset along bedding plane 63 - Egyptian queen, arch resembling 63 - Eisenhower, Dwight D., Mission 66 4 - Elephant Butte 72 - Elephant Butte folds 68 - Elizondo, Emmett 13 - Entrada Sandstone 23, 74, 102, 103 - arches, modes of origin 42 - caves 9 - cut by normal fault 57 - Moab Member 24 - no water found 87 - Environments of deposition _20_ - Erosion 99 - Colorado Plateau _33_ - Evaporation basins 99 - Evaporites 30 - Eye of The Whale 69 - - - F - Facies changes 22 - "Father of the monument," J. W. Williams 1, 4 - Faults, Cache Valley anticline 34 - Salt Valley anticline 34 - Fiery Furnace 25, 42, 73, _79_, 83 - number of arches 41 - Fins 63, 79 - Float trip, nighttime illuminated, down Colorado River 52 - Folds _24_, 30, 100 - Four-wheel-drive vehicles 69 - Fractures _24_ - Fremont people, occupation of area 9 - pictographs 10 - Frost, prying action 42 - - - G - Garden of Eden 50, 69, 70 - Gas exploration, deep tests 15, 99 - Geographic setting _18_ - Geologic age of rocks in park _98_ - Geologic events forming the Colorado Plateau _98_ - Geologic history, summary _98_ - Geologic Time Spiral 101, 103 - Geology, at the park entrance 57 - Glen Canyon Group 52, 102, 103 - Glen Canyon National Recreation Area 101, 103 - Goblin Valley State Park 66, 103 - Gould, Lawrence M. 1 - Goulding, Harry, first person to drive into The Windows section 2, 69 - Grabens 34 - Grand Canyon National Park and National Monument 102 - Gravity anomalies, Salt Valley 32 - Green River 103 - Ground water 41 - "Guide to an Auto Tour of Arches National Park," (The) 5, 50, 51, 72 - Gulf of California 33 - - - H - Hastier, (Mrs.) Hazel Wolfe 13 - Headquarters area _57_ - Henry Mountains 101 - Herdina Park 25, 69 - number of arches 41 - Hermosa Formation, Paradox Member 23, 25, 29, 30, 32 - History, early _9_ - geologic, summary _98_ - "Hoodoos and goblins" 66, 103 - Hoover, Herbert, proclamation 1 - Horizontal arches 44 - Horseshoe Canyon, pictographs 10 - Horseshoe Canyon Detached Unit of Canyonlands 23 - Humid regions, subdued rounded landforms 37 - - - I - Igneous rocks 22, 99 - "Indian-Head Arch" 98 - Iron in the rocks 23 - Island in the Sky 102 - - - J - Jeep trail 69, 70 - Johnson, Lyndon B., proclamation 2 - Joints _24_, 34, 100 - - - K - Kayenta Formation 35, 52, 102, 103 - Kerr, Bob 105 - Klondike Bluffs 25, 69, _82_, 83 - number of arches 41 - - - L - La Sal Mountains 22, 63, 77, 101 - artifacts 9 - Lake Mead 33 - Lake Powell 33 - Land forms, formation in the park 33 - Landscape Arch 16, 77, 88 - second known ascent 90 - Larson, Tommy 13 - Lloyd, Sherman P., Representative 8 - Lohman, (Mrs.) Ruth 105 - - - M - Mahan, Russel L. 2 - Mancos Shale 32, 100 - Maxwell, Ross A., investigation of caves 9, 10 - May, David 40, 105 - Melich, Mitchell, Solicitor General 8 - Mesaverde Group 32, 103 - Mesaverde National Park 103 - Metamorphic rocks 22, 99 - Metric unit conversion factors _2_ - Mikesell, Carl 105 - Miller, Joe 105 - Mission 66, presidential and congressional support 4 - Mississippi River sternwheeler replica 8 - Moab, uranium-vanadium mill 14 - Moab bridge 52 - Moab Canyon 15, 18 - Moab fault 26, 57 - Moab Lions Club 1, 8 - "Moab Mail Road" 16 - Moab Member, Entrada Sandstone 24, 35 - Entrada Sandstone, Broken Arch 46 - composition 41 - "Moab panel" 10 - Moab-Spanish Valley anticline 26 - Moab Valley 57 - Moab Valley-Seven Mile anticline 100, 101 - Moenkopi Formation 32, 102, 103 - Monoliths 63 - Monument, beginning _1_ - Monument Valley 101, 102 - Morrison Formation 32, 101 - Morton, Rogers C. B., Secretary of the Interior 8 - Moss, Frank E., Senator 8 - Moss Back Member, Chinle Formation 15 - - - N - National Park Service 8, 12, 40, 75, 90 - Natural Bridges National Monument 3, 37, 40, 102 - Navajo Arch 90 - Navajo Sandstone 24, 35, 52, 103 - canyon floor 63 - crossbedding 63, 66, 70 - park road cutting 57 - water supply 57, 87 - Navajo Tribe 102 - Needles section, The, Canyonlands National Park 16, 102 - Newell, (Mrs.) Maxine 12, 105 - Nixon, Richard M., Congressional Bill 5 - North Window 40, 68, 71 - - - O - Oil exploration 15 - Cane Creek anticline 24 - deep tests 99 - Origin of the arches _37_ - - - P - Pacific Northwest Pipeline 15 - Painted Desert 102 - Panorama Point 73 - Parade of Elephants 72 - Paradox basin 23 - Paradox Member, Hermosa Formation 23, 25, 29, 30, 82, 99 - Hermosa Formation, average density 32 - upward intrusion 34 - Park, a trip through _52_ - dedication 8 - how to see _50_ - improvements 4 - Park Avenue, trail 63 - Park Service. _See_ National Park Service. - Partition Arch 90 - Petrified dunes 63, 66 - Petrified Forest National Park 102 - Petroglyphs, Ute 10, 75 - Pictographs, Fremont people 10 - Pine Tree Arch 90 - Pion pines 86 - Pipeline scars, Pacific Northwest Pipeline 15 - Plateau, uplift and erosion _33_ - Potash occurrence 15 - Pothole Arch 50, 73 - Pothole arches 44 - Powell, John Wesley, Canyonlands National Park 15 - Professor Valley 56 - - - R - Rainbow Bridge National Monument 103 - Rainwater 41, 42 - Rampton, Calvin L., Utah Governor 8 - Reading, additional _104_ - References, selected _105_ - Relief map, shaded, Arches National Park, described 18, 19 - Ribbon Arch 72 - Richardson Amphitheater 56 - Richardson, Professor 56 - Rico Formation 23 - Rison, (Mrs.) Esther Stanley 13 - Rock formations, sculptured by erosion 35 - Rock openings, natural, types 37 - Rock types in the park 35 - Roosevelt, Franklin D., proclamation 2 - Rumel, Hal, photographer 77 - "Run, Cougar, Run" 16, 56, 75 - - - S - Sagers Wash syncline 86 - Salt, occurrence 15 - properties critical to formation of salt anticlines 30 - Salt anticlines 30, 31, 100 - collapse 33, 34 - Salt-bearing rock 83 - Salt rolls 31 - Salt Valley 2, 68, 73, 77, _82_, 83, 92 - gravity anomalies 32 - Salt Valley anticline 25, 30, 31, 32, 73, 100, 101 - collapse 34 - fins 42 - Salt Valley Wash 3, 74, 82, 83 - Salt Wash 35, 55 - Anasazi ruins 9 - drainage 18 - grabens 34 - sandstone caves near 10 - Salt Wash Sandstone Member, Morrison Formation 14 - San Juan Basin, natural gas 15 - San Rafael Swell 101, 103 - Sand Dune Arch 79 - Sandstone fins 41, 42 - Schaafsma, Polly, quoted 10, 12 - Scenic drive, Moab to Cisco 16 - "Scenic Inch," Pacific Northwest Pipeline 15 - Sedimentary rocks 20 - modes of deposition 99 - Seven Mile-Moab Valley anticline 26, 32, 57 - Sevenmile Canyon 15 - Sheep Rock 63 - Skyline Arch 83 - Slick Rock Member, Entrada Sandstone 34 - Entrada Sandstone, composition 41 - high fins and pinnacles 63, 79, 86 - hiking trail between fins 90 - park road cutting 57 - salmon 77 - The Windows section 71 - Tunnel Arch 46 - vertical arches 42, 44 - Slumping of sediments, irregular 50 - Snow 41, 51 - Sonic booms, dangers posed to arches 16, 17 - South Window 40, 68, 71 - Spanish explorers 12 - introduction of horses to this country 10 - Squaw Flat Campground 16 - Stanley, Esther 13 - (Mrs.) Flora 13 - Volna 13 - Stevens, Dale J. 40, 41, 63, 90, 98 - Strata, lateral changes across the park 22 - Sundance Kid 12 - Sunset Crater National Monument 103 - Supersonic flights banned, Moab-Times Independent 17 - Suspension bridge, Colorado River 16 - - - T - Tanner, (Mrs.) Faun McConkie 1 - Taylor, L. L. (Bish) 1 - Temperatures 51 - "The Guide to an Auto Tour of Arches National Park" 5, 50, 51, 72 - The Needles section, Canyonlands National Park 16, 102 - The Windows section 25, 41, 46, 51, 66, _68_, 69, 70 - Three Gossips 63 - Three Penguins 57 - Tower Arch 83 - Tunnel Arch 40, 46, 90 - Turnbow, Mary 1 - Turnbow cabin 13 - Turret Arch 68, 71 - - - U - Uncompahgre Highland 23, 99, 100 - Uncompahgre Plateau 23, 99 - Uplift, Colorado Plateau _33_ - Upper Devils Garden 98 - number of arches 41 - Uranium mines 14 - Ute petroglyphs 10, 75 - - - V - Vanadium mines 14 - Vegetation 37 - Vertical arches 42, 44 - Visitor Center 50, 51, 57, 86 - Volz, J. Leonard 8 - - - W - Walker, Lester 13 - Wall Arch 90 - Walt Disney crew, "Run, Cougar, Run" 75 - Wasatch Formation 32 - Water supply, Navajo Sandstone 57 - to the campground 87 - White Rim Sandstone Member, Cutler Formation 22 - Wild Bunch, The 12 - Williams, J. W. 1, 4 - Wilson, Bates 1, 3, 105 - Wilson, (Mrs.) Bates 3 - Windows, distinguished from arches _40_ - Windows section, The 25, 46, 51, 66, _68_, 69, 70 - number of arches 41 - Wingate Sandstone 35, 87, 102, 103 - Wirth, Conrad L. 4 - Wolfe cabin 1, 3, 12, 13, 14 - Wolfe, Fred 12, 13 - Wolfe, John Wesley 12, 13 - Wolfe's Bar-DX Ranch 9, 10, 14, 74, 75 - Wupatki National Monument 102 - - - Y - Yellow Cat area (Thompson's area) 14 - Yellow Cat Flat 86 - Yellow Cat mining district 83 - - - Z - Zion National Park 103 - - *U.S. GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE: 1975--679-138 - - [Illustration: U. S. Department of the Interior, March 3, 1849] - - - - -Transcriber's Notes - - ---Retained publication information from the printed edition: this eBook - is public-domain in the country of publication. - ---Corrected a few palpable typos. - ---Included a transcription of the text within some images. - ---In the text versions only, text in italics is delimited by - _underscores_. - ---The HTML version contains relative hyperlinks to a companion volume on - Canyonlands National Park, Gutenberg eBook #51048. - ---A third book in the series, on Colorado National Monument, was revised - after this book was printed. - - - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Geologic Story of Arches National -Park, by S. W. 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text-indent:-3em; margin-top:0; margin-bottom:0; text-align:left; } -p.lr, div.lr, span.lr { display:block; margin-left:0em; margin-right:1em; margin-top:0; margin-bottom:0; text-align:right; } -dt.lr { width:100%; margin-left:0em; margin-right:0em; margin-top:0; margin-bottom:0; margin-top:1em; text-align:right; } -dl dt.lr a { text-align:left; clear:left; float:left; } - -.fnblock { margin-top:2em; } -.fndef { text-align:justify; margin-top:1.5em; margin-left:1.5em; text-indent:-1.5em; } -.fndef p.fncont, .fndef dl { margin-left:0em; text-indent:0em; } -dl.catalog dd { font-style:italic; } -dl.catalog dt { margin-top:1em; } -.author { text-align:right; margin-top:0em; margin-bottom:0em; display:block; } - -dl.biblio dt { margin-top:.6em; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em; text-align:justify; clear:both; } -dl.biblio dt div { display:block; float:left; margin-left:-6em; width:6em; clear:both; } -dl.biblio dt.center { margin-left:0em; text-align:center; } -dl.biblio dd { margin-top:.3em; margin-left:3em; text-align:justify; font-size:90%; } -.clear { clear:both; } -p.book { margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em; } -p.review { margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em; font-size:80%; } -p.pcap, p.pcapc, p.ccap { margin-top:0em; font-family:sans-serif; font-weight:bold; font-size:90%; } -p.pcap { text-align:justify; } -p.ccap { text-align:center; } -span.pn { display:inline-block; width:4.7em; text-align:left; margin-left:0; text-indent:0; }</style> -</head> -<body> - - -<pre> - -The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Geologic Story of Arches National Park, by -S. W. Lohman - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: The Geologic Story of Arches National Park - Geological Survey Bulletin 1393 - -Author: S. W. Lohman - -Illustrator: John R. Stacy - -Release Date: February 3, 2016 [EBook #51116] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK GEOLOGIC STORY--ARCHES NATIONAL PARK *** - - - - -Produced by Stephen Hutcheson, Dave Morgan and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net - - - - - - -</pre> - -<div id="cover" class="img"> -<img id="coverpage" src="images/cover.jpg" alt="The Geologic Story of Arches National Park" width="500" height="786" /> -</div> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/pmg000.jpg" alt="Geology of Arches National Park" width="600" height="292" /> -</div> -<div class="img" id="pic1"> -<img src="images/pmg001.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="730" /> -<p class="pcap">BALANCED ROCK, guarding The -Windows section of Arches National -Park. Rock is Slick Rock Member of -Entrada Sandstone resting upon crinkly -bedded Dewey Bridge Member of -the Entrada. White rock in foreground -is Navajo Sandstone. La Sal Mountains -on right skyline. (Frontispiece)</p> -</div> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/pmg002.jpg" alt="Graphic Title Page" width="496" height="791" /> -</div> -<div class="box"> -<h1><span class="smaller"><i>The Geologic Story of</i></span> -<br /><span class="large"><span class="sc"><b>Arches</b></span></span> -<br /><span class="small">NATIONAL PARK</span></h1> -<p class="center">By S. W. Lohman -<br />Graphics by -<br />John R. Stacy</p> -<p class="center">GEOLOGICAL SURVEY BULLETIN 1393</p> -</div> -<p class="tbcenter">UNITED STATES DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR -<br />ROGERS C. B. MORTON, <i>Secretary</i></p> -<p class="center">GEOLOGICAL SURVEY -<br />V. E. McKelvey, <i>Director</i></p> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/pmg003.jpg" alt="Department of the Interior · March 3, 1949" width="414" height="415" /> -</div> -<p class="center">U.S. GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE: 1975</p> -<hr /> -<dl class="undent"><dt>Library of Congress Cataloging in Publication Data</dt> -<dt>Lohman, Stanley William, 1907-</dt> -<dt>The geologic story of Arches National Park.</dt> -<dt>(Geological Survey Bulletin 1393)</dt> -<dt>Bibliography: p.</dt> -<dt>Includes index.</dt> -<dt>Supt. of Docs. no.: I 19.3:1393</dt> -<dt>1. Geology—Utah—Arches National Park—Guide-books.</dt> -<dt>2. Arches National Park, Utah—Guide-books.</dt> -<dt>I. Title. II. Series: United States Geological Survey</dt> -<dt>Bulletin 1393.</dt> -<dt>QE75.B9 No. 1393 [QE170.A7] 557.3′08s [557.92′58]</dt> -<dt>74-23324</dt></dl> -<hr /> -<p class="center">For sale by the Superintendent of Documents, U. S. Government Printing Office -<br />Washington, D. C. 20402 -<br />Stock Number 024-001-02598-1</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_VII">VII</div> -<h2 class="center">Contents</h2> -<dl class="toc"> -<dt class="small">Page</dt> -<dt><a href="#c1">Beginning of a monument</a> 1</dt> -<dt><a href="#c2">Graduation to a park</a> 5</dt> -<dt><a href="#c3">Early history</a> 9</dt> -<dd><a href="#c4">Prehistoric people</a> 9</dd> -<dd><a href="#c5">Late arrivals</a> 12</dd> -<dt><a href="#c6">Geographic setting</a> 18</dt> -<dt><a href="#c7">Deposition of the rock materials</a> 20</dt> -<dt><a href="#c8">Bending and breaking of the rocks</a> 24</dt> -<dt><a href="#c9">Uplift and erosion of the Plateau</a> 33</dt> -<dt><a href="#c10">Origin and development of the arches</a> 37</dt> -<dd><a href="#c11">Examples of arches</a> 46</dd> -<dt><a href="#c12">How to see the park</a> 50</dt> -<dt><a href="#c13">A trip through the park</a> 52</dt> -<dd><a href="#c14">Colorado River canyon</a> 52</dd> -<dd><a href="#c15">Headquarters area</a> 57</dd> -<dd><a href="#c16">Courthouse Towers area</a> 63</dd> -<dd><a href="#c17">The Windows section</a> 68</dd> -<dd><a href="#c18">Delicate Arch area</a> 74</dd> -<dd><a href="#c19">Fiery Furnace</a> 79</dd> -<dd><a href="#c20">Salt Valley and Klondike Bluffs</a> 82</dd> -<dd><a href="#c21">Devils Garden</a> 83</dd> -<dt><a href="#c22">Summary of geologic history</a> 98</dt> -<dt><a href="#c23">Additional reading</a> 104</dt> -<dt><a href="#c24">Acknowledgments</a> 105</dt> -<dt><a href="#c25">Selected references</a> 105</dt> -<dt><a href="#c26">Index</a> 109</dt> -</dl> -<div class="pb" id="Page_VIII">VIII</div> -<h2><br /><span class="small">Figures</span></h2> -<dl class="toc"> -<dt class="small">Page</dt> -<dt><a href="#pic1">Frontispiece. Balanced Rock.</a></dt> -<dt><a href="#fig1">1. Arches National Park</a> 6</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig2">2. Rock art in Arches National Park</a> 11</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig3">3. Wolfe’s Bar-DX Ranch</a> 14</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig4">4. Rock column of Arches National Park</a> 21</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig5">5. Common types of rock folds</a> 25</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig6">6. Common types of rock faults</a> 26</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig7">7. Paradox basin</a> 27</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig8">8. Geologic section across northwest end of Arches National Park</a> 28</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig9">9. Index map of northwestern part of Arches National Park</a> 28</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig10">10. Gravity anomalies over Salt Valley</a> 31</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig11">11. Tilted block of rocks in Cache Valley graben</a> 34</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig12">12. Jointed northeast flank of Salt Valley anticline</a> 36</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig13">13. Index map</a> 38</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig14">14. Tunnel Arch</a> 43</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig15">15. “Baby Arch”</a> 44</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig16">16. Broken Arch</a> 45</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig17">17. Double Arch</a> 47</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig18">18. Pothole Arch</a> 48</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig19">19. Glen Canyon Group</a> 53</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig20">20. Navajo Sandstone cliffs</a> 54</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig21">21. Mouth of Salt Wash</a> 55</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig22">22. Southeast end of faulted Cache Valley anticline</a> 56</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig23">23. Faulted Seven Mile-Moab Valley anticline</a> 58</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig24">24. Three Penguins</a> 59</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig25">25. Moab Valley</a> 60</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig26">26. Faulted wall of Entrada Sandstone</a> 61</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig27">27. Park Avenue</a> 62</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig28">28. Balanced rocks on south wall of Park Avenue</a> 64</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig29">29. Courthouse Towers</a> 65</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig30">30. The Three Gossips</a> 66</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig31">31. Sheep Rock</a> 66</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig32">32. Petrified sand dunes</a> 67</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig33">33. “Hoodoos and goblins”</a> 68</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig34">34. Eye of The Whale</a> 69</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig35">35. Intricate crossbeds in Navajo Sandstone</a> 70</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig36">36. Cove Arch and Cove of Caves</a> 71</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig37">37. North Window</a> 72</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig38">38. Looking southwestward through North Window</a> 73</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig39">39. South Window</a> 74</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig40">40. Turret Arch</a> 75</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig41">41. Parade of Elephants</a> 76</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig42">42. Suspension foot bridge across Salt Wash</a> 78</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig43">43. Delicate Arch</a> 78</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig44">44. Fiery Furnace</a> 80</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig45">45. Trail to Sand Dune Arch</a> 81</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig46">46. Sand Dune Arch</a> 82</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig47">47. Tower Arch</a> 84</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig48">48. Skyline Arch</a> 85</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig49">49. Campground in Devils Garden</a> 86</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig50">50. View north from campground</a> 87</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig51">51. Southeastern part of Devils Garden trail</a> 88</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig52">52. Pine Tree Arch</a> 89</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig53">53. Landscape Arch</a> 91</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig54">54. Navajo Arch</a> 92</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig55">55. Partition Arch</a> 93</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig56">56. Double O Arch</a> 93</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig57">57. Dark Angel</a> 94</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig58">58. “Indian-Head Arch”</a> 95</dt> -<dt><a href="#fig59">59. Geologic time spiral</a> 96</dt> -</dl> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/pmg004.jpg" alt="Petroglyph figure" width="500" height="413" /> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_1">1</div> -<h2 class="pcap" id="c1">Beginning of a Monument</h2> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/pmg005.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="363" /> -</div> -<p>According to former Superintendent Bates Wilson -(1956), Prof. Lawrence M. Gould, of the University of -Michigan, was the first to recognize the geologic and scenic -values of the Arches area in eastern Utah and to urge its -creation as a national monument. Mrs. Faun McConkie -Tanner<a class="fn" id="fr_1" href="#fn_1">[1]</a> -told me that Professor Gould, who had done a -thesis problem in the nearby La Sal Mountains, was first -taken through the area by Marv Turnbow, third owner of -Wolfe cabin. (See <a href="#Page_12">p. 12</a>.) When Professor Gould went into -ecstasy over the beautiful scenery, Turnbow replied, “I -didn’t know there was anything unusual about it.”</p> -<p>Dr. J. W. Williams, generally regarded as father of the -monument, and L. L. (Bish) Taylor, of the Moab Times-Independent, -were the local leaders in following up on -Gould’s suggestion and, with the help of the Moab Lions -Club, their efforts finally succeeded on April 12, 1929, when -President Herbert Hoover proclaimed Arches National -<span class="pb" id="Page_2">2</span> -Monument, then comprising only 7 square miles.<a class="fn" id="fr_2" href="#fn_2">[2]</a> It was -enlarged to about 53 square miles by President Franklin -D. Roosevelt’s Proclamation of November 25, 1938, and remained -at nearly that size, with some boundary adjustments -on July 22, 1960, until it was enlarged to about 130 -square miles by President Lyndon B. Johnson’s Proclamation -of January 20, 1969.</p> -<p>According to Breed (1947), Harry Goulding, of Monument -Valley, in a specially equipped car, traversed the -rugged sand and rocks of the Arches region in the fall of -1936 and, thus, became the first person to drive a car into -The Windows section of Arches National Monument. Soon -after, a bulldozer followed Harry’s tracks and made a passable -trail.</p> -<p>When my family and I visited the monument in 1946, -the entrance was about 12 miles northwest of Moab on -U.S. Highway 163 (then U.S. 160), where Goulding’s old -tire tracks led eastward past a small sign reading “Arches -National Monument 8 miles.” This primitive road crossed -the sandy, normally dry Courthouse Wash and ended in -what is now called The Windows section. At that time -there was no water or ranger station, nor were there any -picnic tables or other improvements within the monument -proper, and the custodian was housed in an old barracks -of the Civilian Conservation Corps near what is now the -entrance, 5 miles northwest of Moab.</p> -<p>Former Custodian Russell L. Mahan reported (oral -commun., May 1973) that soon after our initial visit in 1946 -a 500-gallon tank was installed near Double Arch in The -Windows section and connected to a drinking fountain and -that two picnic tables and a pit toilet were added. At that -time the only access to Salt Valley and what is now called -Devils Garden was a primitive dirt road which, according -to Breed (1947, p. 175), left old U.S. Highway 160 (now -U.S. 163) 24 miles northwest of Moab, went 22 miles east, -<span class="pb" id="Page_3">3</span> -then followed Salt Valley Wash down to Wolfe cabin -(<a href="#fig1">fig. 1</a>).</p> -<p>According to Abbey (1971), who served as a seasonal -ranger beginning about 1958, a sign had by then been -erected at the crossing of Courthouse Wash which read:</p> -<p class="center">WARNING: QUICKSAND -<br />DO NOT CROSS WASH -<br />WHEN WATER IS RUNNING</p> -<p>The ranger station, his home for 6 months of the year, was -what Abbey described as “a little tin housetrailer.” Nearby -was an information display under a “lean-to shelter.” He -had propane fuel for heat, cooking, and refrigeration, and a -small gasoline-engine-driven generator for lights at night. -His water came from the 500-gallon tank, which was filled -at intervals from a tank truck. At that time there were -three small dry campgrounds, each with tables, fireplaces, -garbage cans, and pit toilets. By that time an extension of -the dirt road led northward to Devils Garden, and some -trails had been built and marked.</p> -<p>Bates Wilson became Custodian of the monument in -1949 and later became Superintendent not only of Arches -but also of the nearby new Canyonlands National Park -(<a href="../../51048/51048-h/51048-h.htm">Lohman, 1974</a>) and the more distant Natural Bridges -National Monument. In the fall of 1969, Bates told me of -some of his early experiences in the undeveloped monument, -including the evening when 22 cars were marooned -on the wrong (northeast) side of Courthouse Wash after -a flash flood. Bates and his “lone” ranger brought ropes, -coffee, and what food they could obtain in town after closing -time, threw a line across the swollen stream, had a -tourist pull a rope across, then took turns wading the -stream with one hand on the rope and the other balancing -supplies on his shoulder. After a fire had been built and hot -coffee and food passed around, the spirits of the stranded -group rose considerably, except for one irate woman -from the East, who refused to budge from her car. Bates -and his helper finally got the last car out about 1 a.m., -after the flood had subsided, and Mrs. Wilson then supplied -lodging and more food and coffee for those who -needed it.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_4">4</div> -<p>During and for sometime after World War II and the -Korean War, lack of maintenance funds and personnel had -prevented improvement of the facilities in many of our national -parks and monuments, particularly in undeveloped -ones like Arches. The day was saved through the wisdom -and foresight of former Park Service Director Conrad L. -Wirth, who saw the need and desirability of putting the -whole “want” list into one attractive, marketable package. -In the words of Everhart (1972, p. 36):</p> -<blockquote> -<p>Selection of a name is of course recognized as the most important -decision in any large-scale enterprise, and here Wirth struck -pure gold. In 1966 the Park Service would be celebrating its -fiftieth anniversary. What a God-given target to shoot for! Why -not produce a ten-year program, which would begin in 1956, aimed -to bring every park up to standard by 1966—and call it Mission 66?</p> -</blockquote> -<p>The ensuing well-documented and cost-estimated plan -for Mission 66 was enthusiastically backed by President -Dwight D. Eisenhower and approved and well supported -by Congress to the tune of more than $1 billion during -the 10-year period. For Arches, this included a new entrance, -Park Headquarters, Visitor Center, a museum -boasting a bust of founder Dr. Williams, and modern -housing for park personnel, all 5 miles northwest of Moab. -By 1958 (Pierson, 1960) a fine new paved road between -Park Headquarters and Balanced Rock (frontispiece) was -completed. These badly needed improvements were followed -by the completion of the paved road all the way to -Devils Garden, the building of the modern campground, -picnic facilities, and amphitheater in the Devils Garden, -and the construction of turnouts and marked trails.</p> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/pmg006.jpg" alt="Petroglyph figure" width="500" height="161" /> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_5">5</div> -<h2 class="pcap" id="c2">Graduation to a Park</h2> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/pmg007.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="304" /> -</div> -<p>Arches graduated to a full-fledged national -park when President Richard M. Nixon signed a Congressional -Bill on November 16, 1971. The change in status -was accompanied by boundary changes that reduced the -area to about 114 square miles. The loss of most of Dry -Mesa, just east of the present boundary (<a href="#fig1">fig. 1</a>), was -offset in part by gains of new land northwest of Devils -Garden. The present (1974) boundaries, roads, trails, and -named features of the park are shown in <a href="#fig1">figure 1</a>.</p> -<p>The park was virtually completed at graduation time, -and so far this change in status has shown up mainly in -new entrance signs, a new 1972 brochure and map, and a -very informative “Guide to an Auto Tour of Arches National -Park,” keyed to numbered signs at parking spaces. -About all that remain to be added are new wayside exhibits, -some boundary fences, and spur roads and trails.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_6">6</div> -<div class="img" id="fig1"> -<img src="images/map1_lr.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="766" /> -<p class="pcap">ARCHES NATIONAL PARK, showing location in Utah, -boundaries, streams, highways and roads, trails, landforms, principal -named features, and the city of Moab. The reader is referred -to <a href="#fig7">figure 7</a> and to road maps issued by the State or by oil -companies for the locations of other nearby towns and features. -Visitors also may obtain pamphlets, from the entrance station -or from the National Park Service office in Moab, which contain -up-to-date maps of the park and the latest available information -on roads, trails, campsites, and picnic sites. (Fig. 1)<br /><span class="center"><a class="abl" href="images/map1_hr.jpg">High-resolution Map</a></span></p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_8">8</div> -<p>Although Arches had officially become a park in November -1971, it was not formally dedicated until May 15, 1972. -The ceremony began by having the Federal, State, and -local dignitaries and other guests totaling 140 persons -board the <i>Canyon King</i>, a 93-foot replica of a Mississippi -River sternwheeler (Lansford, 1972; <a href="../../51048/51048-h/51048-h.htm#fig69">Lohman, 1974, fig. 69</a>), -for its maiden voyage down the Colorado River. After -about half an hour, the heavily laden boat became stuck -on a sandbar, and after a 90-minute wait the passengers -were rescued by jet boats. This delayed a luncheon at the -Visitor Center put on by the Moab Lions Club. Following -the luncheon, Park Superintendent Bates Wilson made a -brief welcoming address, then introduced J. Leonard Volz, -Director of the Midwest Region of the National Park Service, -who served as master of ceremonies. Speakers included -Utah Governor Calvin L. Rampton, Senator Frank -E. Moss, a representative of Senator Wallace F. Bennett, -Representatives Sherman P. Lloyd of Utah and Wayne -Aspinall of Colorado, and Mitchell Melich, Solicitor General -of the Department of Interior, representing Secretary -Rogers C. B. Morton. After the speeches, a commemorative -plaque, donated by the Canyonlands Natural History Association, -was unveiled by Senator Moss and Mr. Melich.</p> -<p>Most of the color photographs were taken by me on -4- × 5-inch film in a tripod-mounted press camera, using -lenses of several focal lengths, but a few were taken on -35-mm film, using lenses of various focal lengths. I am -grateful to several friends for the color photographs credited -to them in the figure captions. The black and white -photographs were kindly loaned from the Moab and -Arches files of the National Park Service. The points from -which most of the photographs were taken are shown in -<a href="#fig13">figure 13</a>.</p> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/pmg010.jpg" alt="Petroglyph figure" width="500" height="129" /> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_9">9</div> -<h2 class="pcap" id="c3">Early History</h2> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/pmg011.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="228" /> -</div> -<h3 id="c4">Prehistoric People</h3> -<p>The Canyon lands in and south of Arches were -inhabited by cliff dwellers centuries before the first visits -of the Spaniards and fur trappers. Projectile points and -other artifacts found in the nearby La Sal and Abajo -Mountains indicate occupation by aborigines during the -period from about 3000-2000 <span class="sc">B.C.</span> to about <span class="sc">A.D.</span> 1 (Hunt, -Alice, 1956). The Fremont people occupied the area around -<span class="sc">A.D.</span> 850 or 900, and the Pueblo or Anasazi people from -about <span class="sc">A.D.</span> 1075 to their departure in the late 12th century -(Jennings, 1970). Most of the evidence for these early -occupations has been found in and south of Canyonlands -National Park (<a href="../../51048/51048-h/51048-h.htm">Lohman, 1974</a>), but some traces of these -and possibly earlier cultures have been found also within -Arches National Park.</p> -<p>Ross A. Maxwell (National Park Service, written -commun., 1941) investigated two caves in the Entrada -Sandstone in the upper reaches of Salt Wash that contain -Anasazi ruins. He mentioned that perhaps a dozen or more -other caves should be checked for evidence of former occupation -and, also, that he found several ancient campsites -littered with flint chips and broken tools.</p> -<p>One cave Maxwell explored some 5 miles north of Wolfe -Ranch and north of the park is about 300 feet long and -100 to 150 feet deep. It contains the remains of one or -more ruins of a structure he thought may have covered -much of the floor. The remaining parts of walls now are -only two to four tiers of stones in height, although originally -they may have been more than one story high. -<span class="pb" id="Page_10">10</span> -Maxwell explored a second cave on the east side of Salt -Wash, about 2 miles north of Wolfe Ranch, which contains -16 storage cists of adobe.</p> -<p>The faces of many older sandstone cliffs or ledges are -darkened by desert varnish—a natural pigment of iron -and manganese oxides. The prehistoric inhabitants of the -Plateau learned that effective and enduring designs, called -petroglyphs, could be created simply by chiseling or pecking -through the thin dark layer to reveal the buff or tan -sandstone beneath. Most petroglyphs were created by the -Anasazi, but those showing men mounted on horses were -done by Ute tribesmen after the Spaniards brought in -horses in the 1500’s. The Fremont people and some earlier -people painted figures on rock faces, called pictographs, -and some of these had pecked outlines.</p> -<p>The so-called “Moab panel” was described by Beckwith -(1934, p. 177) as a petroglyph, but, as pointed out by -Schaafsma (1971, p. 72, 73), it comprises figures having -pecked outlines and painted bodies, which actually are -combinations of petroglyphs and pictographs. This beautifully -preserved group of paintings is shown in the upper -photograph of <a href="#fig2">figure 2</a>. Mrs. Schaafsma goes on to say, -concerning the “Moab panel”:</p> -<blockquote> -<p>The long tapered body, the antenna like headdresses, and the -staring eyes are characteristic features of Barrier Canyon style -figures elsewhere * * *. Of special interest here are the large -shields held by certain figures. A visit to this site indicated that -the shields, although apparently of some antiquity, have been -superimposed over some of the Barrier Canyon figures. Whether -or not this was done by the Barrier Canyon style artists themselves -or later comers to the site is impossible to tell.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>Although definite proof seems lacking, she suggested -(written commun., Nov. 3, 1973) that the “‘Barrier Canyon -style’<a class="fn" id="fr_3" href="#fn_3">[3]</a> * * * is earlier than the work in the same -region clearly attributable to the Fremont.” Note the -three bullet holes in and near the right-hand shield. A -ledge above the panel that contained petroglyphs during -her earlier visit had fallen to the base of the cliff by the -time my wife and I inspected the panel in September 1973.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_11">11</div> -<div class="img" id="fig2"> -<img src="images/pmg012.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="526" /> -<p class="pcap">ROCK ART IN ARCHES NATIONAL PARK. A (above), “Moab panel,” -on cliff of Wingate Sandstone above U.S. Highway 163 between -Courthouse Wash and Colorado River, believed to be the work -of “Barrier Canyon” style people. B (below), Petroglyphs on ledge -of sandstone in Morrison Formation on east side of Salt Wash -just north of Wolfe Ranch, believed to have been cut by Ute -tribesmen. (Fig. 2)</p> -</div> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/pmg013.jpg" alt="Fig. 2 B" width="800" height="568" /> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_12">12</div> -<p>Mrs. Schaafsma believes the petroglyphs in the lower -photograph of <a href="#fig2">figure 2</a> to be the work of Ute tribesmen, -not only because of the horses, but also because of the -stiff-legged appearance of the mountain sheep. Note the -bullet hole above the panel.</p> -<h3 id="c5">Late Arrivals</h3> -<p>Later arrivals in and near Arches National Park included -first Spanish explorers, then trappers, cattlemen, -cattle rustlers and horse thieves, followed in the present -century by oil drillers, uranium hunters, jeepsters, and -tourists. Butch Cassidy, the Sundance Kid, and other -members of The Wild Bunch are known to have frequented -parts of what is now Canyonlands National Park (Baker, -Pearl, 1971), but it is not certain whether or not any of -them traversed what is now Arches National Park.</p> -<p>The first settler in what is now Arches National Park -was a Civil War veteran named John Wesley Wolfe, who -was discharged from the Union Army about 3 weeks -before the Battle of Bull Run because he suffered from -varicose veins. In 1888 his doctor told him he had to leave -Ohio for a dryer climate or he would not live 6 months, so -he took his son Fred west and settled on a tract of 150 -acres along the west bank of Salt Wash, where his “Wolfe -cabin” still stands (figs. <a href="#fig1">1</a>, <a href="#fig3">3</a>). From family letters and -newspaper clippings compiled by Mrs. Maxine Newell and -other members of the National Park Service (Maxine -Newell, written commun., 1971), we learn what life in the -area was like:</p> -<blockquote> -<p>We have started a cattle spread on a desert homestead. We call -it the Bar-DX Ranch. Fred and I live in a little log -house on the bank of a creek that is sometimes dry, sometimes -flooded from bank to bank with roaring muddy water. We are -surrounded with rocks—gigantic red rock formations, massive -arches and weird figures, the like of which youve [sic] never -seen. The desert is a hostile, demanding country, hot in summer, -cold in winter. The Bar-DX Ranch is a day’s ride from the nearest -store, out of the range of schools.</p> -</blockquote> -<div class="pb" id="Page_13">13</div> -<p>Although John Wolfe had promised his wife and his -other children that he would return home the first fall -that his cattle sales netted enough money, he and Fred -stayed on and on, and his wife refused to go west and -join her husband and son. Eighteen years later he sent -money from his pension check to his daughter, Mrs. Flora -Stanley, his son-in-law, Ed Stanley, and his two grandchildren, -Esther and Ferol, to join him and Fred at the -ranch. Their train was met at Thompson Springs (now -Thompson), Utah (<a href="#fig7">fig. 7</a>), by John Wolfe for the 30-mile -ride to the ranch by horse and wagon. Sight of the tiny -log cabin with only a dirt floor brought tears to his daughter’s -eyes, but her spirits rose considerably after John -Wolfe promised to build a new log cabin with a wooden -floor. But the children were enchanted with this strange -country, with the building of the new cabin, and, especially, -with getting to go rabbit hunting with Grandpa Wolfe. -The Stanleys stayed at the ranch until Esther was 10, -then moved to Moab to await the arrival of their third -child, Volna.</p> -<p>In 1910 John Wolfe sold the Bar-DX Ranch, and the -entire family moved to Kansas. John Wolfe later moved -back to Ohio, and died at Etna, Licking County, on -October 22, 1913, at the age of 84, 25 years after his doctor -had warned him to move to a dryer climate or face an -early death.</p> -<p>Wolfe had sold his spread to Tommy Larson, who later -sold it to J. Marv Turnbow and his partners, Lester Walker -and Stib Beeson. The old log cabin gradually came to -be known as the “Turnbow cabin,” and this name appeared -on early maps of the area by the U.S. Geological Survey -and on early pamphlets by the National Park Service, -partly because Marv Turnbow served as a camphand in -1927 assisting in the first detailed geologic mapping of the -area (Dane, 1935, p. 4). In 1947 the ranch was sold to -Emmett Elizondo, who later sold it to the Government -for inclusion in what was then the monument.</p> -<p>From information supplied by Wolfe’s granddaughter, -Mrs. Esther Stanley Rison, and his great-granddaughter, -Mrs. Hazel Wolfe Hastler, who visited the cabin in July -<span class="pb" id="Page_14">14</span> -1970, the original name Wolfe cabin, or Wolfe Ranch, has -been restored, and appears on the newer maps and pamphlets. -(See <a href="#fig1">fig. 1</a>.) What remains of Wolfe’s Bar-DX -Ranch is shown in <a href="#fig3">figure 3</a>.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig3"> -<img src="images/pmg014.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="479" /> -<p class="pcap">WOLFE’S BAR-DX RANCH, on west bank of Salt Wash at start of -trail to Delicate Arch. Left to right: Corral, wagon, “new” cabin, -and root cellar. “Old” cabin, which formerly was to right of photograph, -was washed away by a flood in 1906. (Fig. 3)</p> -</div> -<p>Arches National Park is surrounded by active uranium -and vanadium mines and by many test wells for oil, gas, -and potash; it is underlain by extensive salt and potash -deposits. Oil and gas are produced a few miles to the north -and east, and potash is being produced about 12 miles to -the south (<a href="../../51048/51048-h/51048-h.htm">Lohman, 1974</a>).</p> -<p>Uranium and vanadium have been mined on the Colorado -Plateau since 1898 (Dane, 1935, p. 176) and in the -Yellow Cat area (also called Thompson’s area), just north -of the park (<a href="#fig1">fig. 1</a>), since about 1911 (Stokes, 1952, p. 7). -The deposits in the Yellow Cat area occur in the Salt -Wash Sandstone Member of the Morrison Formation (<a href="#fig4">fig. 4</a>). -According to Pete Beroni (U.S. Atomic Energy Commission, -oral commun., August 6, 1973), some ore is still -being produced in the Yellow Cat area, and the production -of vanadium ore will increase as soon as the uranium mill -at Moab is converted to also handle vanadium ore. The -<span class="pb" id="Page_15">15</span> -Corral and so-called Shinarump mines along the southwest -side of Moab Canyon just north of Sevenmile Canyon (<a href="#fig1">fig. 1</a>) -are still actively producing uranium ore from the Moss -Back Member of the Chinle Formation, according to -Mr. Beroni.</p> -<p>The occurrences of salt and potash in and near the park -and the attempts to find oil and gas nearby are discussed -in a recent report (Hite and Lohman, 1973), and the -deposits beneath Moab, Salt, and Cache Valleys are discussed -in later chapters.</p> -<p>In 1955 and 1956 the Pacific Northwest Pipeline, known -also as the “Scenic Inch,” was constructed by the Pacific -Northwest Pipeline Corp. to transmit natural gas from -wells in the San Juan Basin of northwestern New Mexico -for a total of 1,487 miles to the Pacific Northwest, with -additional pickups from gas fields in northeastern Utah, -northwestern Colorado, and southwestern Wyoming (Walters, -1956). This 26-inch pipeline follows the general route -of U.S. Highway 163 from Cortez, Colo., past Moab to -Sevenmile Canyon 10 miles northwest of Moab, where it -turns abruptly to the northeast and crosses about the middle -of Arches National Park. It crosses the park road and -the flat area between the Fiery Furnace and the southeast -end of Devils Garden, but the scars are so well healed that -most visitors are unaware of its existence unless they -happen to look southwestward across Salt Valley, where -the filled excavation is still visible. The filled trench also -appears in the lower middle of <a href="#fig23">figure 23</a>.</p> -<p>Unlike Canyonlands National Park a few miles to the -south, Arches was not on the route of the famous early-day -river expeditions of John Wesley Powell or of most of -those that followed; however, the southeastern boundary -of the park is the Colorado River, formerly the Grand, -which was traversed by the first leg of the ill-fated Brown-Stanton -expedition (Dellenbaugh, 1902, p. 343-369; <a href="../../51048/51048-h/51048-h.htm">Lohman, 1974</a>).</p> -<p>The canyon of the Colorado River along the southeastern -park boundary is deep and beautiful and is a favorite -stretch of quiet water for boaters and floaters. Partly -paved State Highway 128 on the east bank is a part of a -<span class="pb" id="Page_16">16</span> -most scenic drive from Moab to Cisco—a small railroad -town about 32 miles northeast of the eastern border of -<a href="#fig1">figure 1</a> (<a href="#fig7">fig. 7</a>). This road has been variously called the -“Moab Mail Road,” the “Cisco Cutoff,” the “Dewey -Road,” or the “Dewey Bridge Road” after an old suspension -bridge (<a href="#fig7">fig. 7</a>) across the Colorado River at the old -townsite of Dewey about 12 miles south of Cisco. During -the summer this deep colorful canyon may be viewed at -night by artificial illumination. Each evening one-half hour -after sundown, an 80-passenger jet boat leaves a dock north -of the highway bridge, carries passengers several miles upstream, -then floats slowly downstream followed by a truck -on the highway carrying 40,000 watts of searchlights -which play back and forth on the colorful red canyon -walls, while the passengers listen to a taped discourse. The -entire trip requires about 2 hours.</p> -<p>The spectacular arches and red rocks of Arches and -vicinity have been used to advantage in making color movies -and color TV shows. Parts of the recent Walt Disney -film “Run, Cougar, Run” were filmed beneath Delicate -Arch (<a href="#fig43">fig. 43</a>), in Professor Valley of the Colorado River -just east of the park (<a href="#fig7">fig. 7</a>), and in other sections of the -canyon country.</p> -<p>Ever since military jet aircraft broke the sound barrier, -there has been a growing number of protests from concerned -citizens, organizations, and National Park Service -officials concerning the dangers sonic booms have posed to -Indian ruins and delicate erosional forms in our national -parks and monuments, such as natural bridges, arches and -windows, balanced rocks, and natural spires or towers. -Many instances of damaged ruins, roads, erosional forms, -and broken windows were reported. My wife and I can -vouch for the destructive power of such booms, for in -October 1969, while we were having breakfast at Squaw -Flat Campground in The Needles section of Canyonlands -National Park, a particularly severe blast from a low-flying -jet not only violently rocked our jack-supported trailer -but broke the windshield of our car.</p> -<p>At Arches National Park, particular fear was felt for -Landscape Arch (<a href="#fig53">fig. 53</a>), thought to be the longest natural -<span class="pb" id="Page_17">17</span> -stone arch in the world, and many a special round -trip from headquarters involving 47 road miles and 2 -trail miles was made to check on the condition of this arch -after especially loud sonic booms were heard. Finally, in -April 1972, following a rash of newspaper and magazine -articles that spread across the nation, the Secretary of the -Air Force put a virtual stop to this danger by ruling -that, except in an emergency (Moab Times-Independent, -April 12, 1972):</p> -<blockquote> -<p>Supersonic flights must not only avoid passing over national -parks, they also may not fly near them, according to the new -regulation. For each 1,000 feet of altitude, the pilot must allow -one-half mile between the flight path and the park boundary. The -regulation also prohibits supersonic flights below 30,000 feet -(over land) so the high speed planes must allow 15 miles between -the nearest park boundary and the flight path.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>Let us hope that with the aid of this long-needed regulation -and cooperation from visitors, the arches will remain -intact for many more generations to see.</p> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/pmg015.jpg" alt="Petroglyph figure" width="300" height="356" /> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_18">18</div> -<h2 class="pcap" id="c6">Geographic Setting</h2> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/pmg016.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="255" /> -</div> -<p>Geologists have divided the United States into -many provinces, each of which has distinctive geologic and -topographic characteristics that set it apart from the -others. One of the most intriguing and scenic of these is -the Colorado Plateaus province, referred to in this report -simply as the Colorado Plateau, or the Plateau (Hunt, C. -B., 1956, <a href="#fig1">fig. 1</a>). This province, which covers some 150,000 -square miles and is not all plateaus, as we shall see, extends -from Rifle, Colo., at the northeast to a little beyond -Flagstaff, Ariz., at the southwest, and from Cedar City, -Utah, at the west nearly to Albuquerque, N. Mex., at the -southeast. Arches National Park occupies part of the Canyon -Lands Section, one of the six subdivisions of the -Plateau. As the names imply, the Canyon Lands Section -of the Plateau comprises a high plateau generally ranging -in altitude from 5,000 to 7,000 feet, which has been intricately -dissected by literally thousands of canyons.</p> -<p>Arches National Park is drained entirely by the Colorado -River, whose deep canyon borders the park on the -southeast (<a href="#fig1">fig. 1</a>). Most of the park is drained by Salt -Wash, which enters the Colorado River just southeast of -The Windows section, but the southwestern part is drained -by Courthouse Wash and Moab Canyon, whose flows -join the Colorado just west of the bridge on which U.S. -Highway 163 crosses the river.</p> -<p>When viewed at a distance of 1 foot, the shaded relief -map (<a href="#fig1">fig. 1</a>) shows the general shape of the land surface -in and near Arches National Park to the same horizontal -scale as it would appear to a person in a spacecraft flying -at a height of 250,000 feet, or about 47.5 miles. This map -<span class="pb" id="Page_19">19</span> -was prepared from part of the reverse side of a plastic-relief -map<a class="fn" id="fr_4" href="#fn_4">[4]</a> at a scale of 1:250,000 by the U.S. Army Map -Service of the Moab quadrangle, using a simple time- and -money-saving method (Stacy, 1962).</p> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/pmg017.jpg" alt="Petroglyph figure" width="500" height="535" /> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_20">20</div> -<h2 class="pcap" id="c7">Deposition of The Rock Materials</h2> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/pmg018.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="273" /> -</div> -<p>The vivid and varied colors of the bare rocks and -the fantastic buttes, spires, columns, alcoves, caves, arches, -and other erosional forms of Arches National Park result -from a fortuitous combination of geologic and climatic -circumstances and events unequalled in most other parts -of the world.</p> -<p>First among these events was the piling up, layer upon -layer, of thousands of feet of sedimentary rocks under a -wide variety of environments. Sedimentary rocks of the -region are composed of clay, silt, sand, and gravel carried -and deposited by moving water; silt and sand transported -by wind; and some materials precipitated from water solutions, -such as limestone (calcium carbonate), dolomite -(calcium and magnesium carbonate), gypsum (calcium -sulfate with some water), anhydrite (calcium sulfate -alone), common salt (sodium chloride), potash minerals, -such as potassium chloride, and a few other less common -types. Some of the beds were laid down in shallow seas -that once covered the area or in lagoons and estuaries -near the sea. Other beds were deposited by streams in inland -basins or plains, a few were deposited in lakes, and -the constituents of deposits like the Navajo Sandstone, -were carried in by the wind. The character and thickness -of the exposed sedimentary rocks and the names and ages -assigned to them by geologists are shown in the rock -column (<a href="#fig4">fig. 4</a>) and in the cross section (<a href="#fig8">fig. 8</a>). The history -of their deposition is summarized on pages <a href="#Page_98">98</a>-<a href="#Page_102">102</a>. -<a href="#fig4">Figure 4</a> was compiled mainly from generalized sections -given by A. A. Baker (1933), Dane (1935), McKnight -(1940), and Wright, Shawe, and Lohman (1962), and, in -part, from Hite and Lohman (1973).</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_21">21</div> -<div class="img" id="fig4"> -<img src="images/pmg019.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="622" /> -<p class="pcap">ROCK COLUMN OF ARCHES NATIONAL PARK. Average thickness -of units 250-1,000 feet is exaggerated two times; those less than -250 feet, four times. 1 foot = 0.305 meter. (Fig. 4)</p> -</div> -<div class="ss"> -<dl class="undent"><dt>AGE (millions of yrs ago)</dt> -<dd>GEOLOGIC AGE</dd> -<dd class="t">NAME OF ROCK UNIT</dd> -<dd class="t4">KIND OF ROCK AND HOW IT IS SCULPTURED BY EROSION</dd> -<dd class="t5">THICKNESS (feet)</dd> -<dd class="t6">NAMED FOR OCCURRENCE AT OR NEAR</dd></dl> -<dl class="undent"><dt>100</dt> -<dd>Late Cretaceous</dd> -<dd class="t">Mancos Shale</dd> -<dd class="t4">Lead-gray fossiliferous marine shale. Forms slopes.</dd> -<dd class="t5">?</dd> -<dd class="t6">Mancos, Colo.</dd> -<dd class="t">Dakota Sandstone</dd> -<dd class="t4">Conglomeratic sandstone, gray shale, carbonaceous shale, and coal. Forms ledge.</dd> -<dd class="t5">100</dd> -<dd class="t6">Dakota, Nebr.</dd> -<dd class="t">Unconformity</dd> -<dd>Late Jurassic</dd> -<dd class="t">Morrison Fm.</dd> -<dd class="t5">700</dd> -<dd class="t6">Morrison, Colo.</dd> -<dd class="t2">Brushy Basin Member</dd> -<dd class="t4">Variegated shale, some sandstone and conglomerate, petrified wood, chert, and dinosaur bones. May contain some beds of Burro Canyon (Early Cretaceous) age.</dd> -<dd class="t2">Salt Wash Member</dd> -<dd class="t4">Crossbedded white and gray conglomeratic sandstone beds and lenses, locally carnotite bearing, and red and gray sandy mudstone. Forms slopes.</dd> -<dd class="t">Unconformity</dd> -<dt>160</dt> -<dd class="t">San Rafael Group</dd> -<dd class="t6">(San Rafael Swell, Utah)</dd> -<dd class="t2">Summerville Fm.</dd> -<dd class="t4">Thin bedded red sandstone and shale. Some cherty limestone concretions. Forms slopes.</dd> -<dd class="t5">0-40</dd> -<dd class="t6">Summerville Point, Utah</dd> -<dd class="t2">Entrada Ss.</dd> -<dd class="t6">(Entrada Point, Utah)</dd> -<dd class="t3">Moab Member</dd> -<dd class="t4">White, crossbedded fine-grained sandstone. Caps Slick Rock Member north of Devils Garden and Fiery Furnace and on Klondike Bluffs.</dd> -<dd class="t5">0-100</dd> -<dd class="t6">Moab, Utah</dd> -<dd class="t3">Slick Rock Member</dd> -<dd class="t4">Salmon-colored to pink and white fine-grained generally crossbedded sandstone, containing some medium- to coarse-grained sand. Generally forms cliffs or narrow fins many of which contain arches or windows.</dd> -<dd class="t5">0-240</dd> -<dd class="t6">Slick Rock, Colo.</dd> -<dd class="t3">Dewey Bridge Member</dd> -<dd class="t4">Red muddy sandstone and sandy mudstone, with contorted bedding. Forms easily eroded bases to arches in Windows Section, hence aided in their development.</dd> -<dd class="t5">0-175</dd> -<dd class="t6">Dewey Bridge, Utah</dd> -<dd class="t">Unconformity</dd> -<dt>190</dt> -<dd>Jurassic and Triassic(?);</dd> -<dd class="t">Glen Canyon Group</dd> -<dd class="t2">Navajo Sandstone</dd> -<dd class="t4">Massive crossbedded buff, gray, and white fine-grained sandstone, and local beds of gray limestone. Forms cliffs along Colorado River, floors Windows Section.</dd> -<dd class="t5">0-350</dd> -<dd class="t6">Navajo Country, Four Corners (Glen Canyon, U.)</dd> -<dd>Late Triassic(?)</dd> -<dd class="t2">Kayenta Formation</dd> -<dd class="t4">Lavender, gray, and white lenses of sandstone, red sandy shale, and conglomerate. Contains some freshwater shells. Caps and protects cliffs of Wingate Sandstone.</dd> -<dd class="t5">0-250</dd> -<dd class="t6">Kayenta, Ariz.</dd> -<dd>Late Triassic</dd> -<dd class="t2">Wingate Sandstone</dd> -<dd class="t4">Massive, horizontally bedded and crossbedded reddish buff fine-grained sandstone. Forms vertical cliffs along Colorado River, Cache Valley, Salt Wash, and Courthouse Wash.</dd> -<dd class="t5">0-350</dd> -<dd class="t6">Fort Wingate, N. Mex.</dd> -<dt>200</dt> -<dd class="t">Chinle Formation</dd> -<dd class="t4">Irregularly bedded buff to red sandstone, red mudstone, limestone, and conglomerate. Lenticular sandstone and conglomerate (Moss Back Member) locally at base. Freshwater shells, petrified wood, reptile bones. Forms slopes.</dd> -<dd class="t5">0-700</dd> -<dd class="t6">Chinle Valley, Ariz.</dd> -<dd class="t6">Moss Back Ridge, Utah Unconformity</dd> -<dd>Middle(?) and Early Triassic</dd> -<dd class="t">Moenkopi Formation</dd> -<dd class="t4">Thin-bedded brown shale, gray and brown sandstone, arkosic grit, and conglomerate. Crops out on southwest side of Moab Valley and in several places in Salt and Cache Valleys. Forms slopes.</dd> -<dd class="t5">0-1,300</dd> -<dd class="t6">Moenkopi Wash, Ariz.</dd> -<dd class="t">Unconformity</dd> -<dt>250</dt> -<dd>Permian</dd> -<dd class="t">Cutler Formation</dd> -<dd class="t4">Chocolate brown and red sandy shale, maroon and pinkish-gray arkose and conglomerate. Lower part probably equivalent in age to Rico Formation in areas to south and east. Crops out in Moab Canyon west of Moab fault. Forms slopes.</dd> -<dd class="t5">0-2,500</dd> -<dd class="t6">Cutler Creek, Colo.</dd> -<dd>Pennsylvanian</dd> -<dd class="t">Hermosa Formation</dd> -<dd class="t2">Unnamed upper member</dd> -<dd class="t4">Gray marine fossiliferous sandy limestone, gray and greenish-gray sandstone and sandy shale, and red sandy shale. Exposed in ledges southwest of Moab fault in highway cut west of park entrance.</dd> -<dd class="t5">0-1,500</dd> -<dd class="t6">Hermosa Creek, Animas River Valley, Colo.</dd> -<dt>300</dt> -<dd class="t2">Paradox Member</dd> -<dd class="t4">Salt, gypsum, and anhydrite, with black and gray shale and limestone. Few exposures in Salt and Cache Valleys. Forms slopes.</dd> -<dd class="t5">0-11,000</dd> -<dd class="t6">Paradox Valley, Colo.</dd> -<dd class="t">Unconformity</dd> -<dd>Pennsylvanian(?)</dd> -<dd class="t">Unnamed conglomerate</dd> -<dd class="t4">Yellow sandstone with boulders of limestone and chert containing Mississippian fossils. Exposed at two places in Salt Valley.</dd> -<dd class="t5">?</dd></dl> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_22">22</div> -<p>Not exposed in the area but present far beneath the -sedimentary cover and exposed in several places a few -miles to the northeast are examples of the other two -principal types of rocks—(1) igneous rocks, solidified -from molten rock forced into or above preexisting rocks -along cracks, joints, and faults, and (2) much older metamorphic -rocks, formed from other preexisting rock types -by great heat and pressure at extreme depths. Igneous -rocks of Tertiary age (<a href="#fig59">fig. 59</a>) form the nearby La Sal -Mountains. The particles comprising the sedimentary -rocks in the area were derived by weathering and erosion -of all three types of rocks in various source areas.</p> -<p>Arches National Park and nearby Canyonlands National -Park are both in the heart of the Canyon Lands -Section of the Plateau; therefore, it is only reasonable to -wonder why the differences in their general character seemingly -outweigh their similarities. First, let us consider the -similarities. Both parks are underlain by dominantly red -sedimentary rocks, both parks feature unusual erosional -forms of sandstone, and both contain beautiful natural -arches, although the arches in Canyonlands are restricted -almost entirely to the southeastern part of The Needles -section and are in much older rocks than those in Arches.</p> -<p>To be sure, differences in the rocks themselves play a -part in the dissimilarity of the two parks, and these differences -are of two types. First, there are lateral changes in -the character of the strata, known to geologists as facies -changes, brought about by differences in the environment, -in the type of materials, and in the mode of deposition -even within relatively short distances. Thus, during parts -of the Permian Period while sand, later to be known as -the Cedar Mesa and White Rim Sandstone Members of -<span class="pb" id="Page_23">23</span> -the Cutler Formation, was being deposited in the southern -part of Canyonlands, red mud, silt, and sand of the Cutler -were laid down farther north in Canyonlands -(<a href="../../51048/51048-h/51048-h.htm#fig9">Lohman, 1974, fig. 9</a>), and similar, though somewhat coarser, beds -of the Cutler were laid down at Arches (<a href="#fig4">fig. 4</a>). Further -comparisons of the rock columns in the two parks show -that while limestones of the Rico Formation were being -deposited in a shallow sea in the southern part of Canyonlands, -additional red mud, silt, and sand of the Cutler -were being laid down above sea level in areas to the northeast. -The source of the coarser materials was the ancient -Uncompahgre Highland, which stood above sea level from -Late Pennsylvanian time to Late Triassic time (figs. <a href="#fig7">7</a>, -<a href="#fig59">59</a>). Although wider and longer, it occupied about the -same position as the present Uncompahgre Plateau between -Grand Junction and Gateway, Colo. Streams eroded -the hard igneous and metamorphic rocks from this ancient -landmass and dumped the material into basins to the -northeast and southwest. The basin to the southwest, now -called the Paradox basin (after Paradox Valley, Colo.), at -intervals contained shallow seas and lagoons, which I will -discuss later.</p> -<p>Comparison of the rock columns for the two parks also -reveals other differences. Both parks contain exposures of -rocks as old as the Pennsylvanian Paradox Member of the -Hermosa Formation. However, only in the Horseshoe Canyon -Detached Unit of Canyonlands are rocks as young as -the Jurassic Entrada Sandstone, whereas all the spectacular -natural arches that make Arches famous were formed -in the Entrada Sandstone, and Arches also contains several -younger formations of Jurassic and Cretaceous age -(<a href="#fig4">fig. 4</a>).</p> -<p>A commonly asked question is “Why are most of the -rocks so red, particularly those in which the arches were -formed?” This can be answered with one word—iron, the -same pigment used in rouge and in paint for barns and -boxcars. Various oxides of iron, some including water, -produce not only brick red but also pink, salmon, brown, -buff, yellow, and even green or bluish green. This does not -imply that the rocks could be considered as sources of -<span class="pb" id="Page_24">24</span> -iron ore, for the merest trace, generally only 1 to 3 percent, -is enough to produce even the darkest shades of red. The -white or nearly white Navajo Sandstone and the Moab -Member of the Entrada Sandstone contain little or no iron.</p> -<p>As pointed out by Stokes (1970, p. 3), microscopic -examination of the colored grains of quartz or other -minerals shows the pigment to be merely a thin coating on -and between white or colorless particles. Sand or silt -weathered from such rocks soon loses its color by the -scouring action of wind or water, so that most of the sand -dunes and sand bars are white or nearly so.</p> -<h2 class="pcap" id="c8">Bending And Breaking of The Rocks</h2> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/pmg020.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="186" /> -</div> -<p>Perhaps the greatest geologic contrast between -these two closely adjacent parks lies in their different geologic -structure—the kind and amount of bending and -breaking of the once nearly flat lying strata. Consolidated -rocks, particularly brittle types, are subject to two types -of fracturing by Earth forces. Joints are fractures along -which no movement has taken place. Faults are fractures -along which there has been displacement of the two sides -relative to one another (<a href="#fig6">fig. 6</a>). As noted in the report on -Canyonlands National Park (<a href="../../51048/51048-h/51048-h.htm">Lohman, 1974</a>), the strata -there, particularly along the valley of the Green River, are -virtually flat lying or have only very gentle dips. Along the -Colorado River above the confluence with the Green, however, -the slightly dipping strata are interrupted by several -gentle anticlinal and synclinal folds (<a href="#fig5">fig. 5</a>) and by at -least one fault (<a href="#fig6">fig. 6</a>). The largest of these folds—the -Cane Creek anticline, which crosses the Colorado River -north of Canyonlands—has yielded oil in the past and is -<span class="pb" id="Page_25">25</span> -now yielding potash by solution mining of salt beds in -the Paradox Member of the Hermosa Formation.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig5"> -<img src="images/pmg021.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="733" /> -<p class="pcap">COMMON TYPES OF ROCK FOLDS. Top, Anticline, or upfold; -closed anticlines are called domes. Bottom, Syncline, or downfold; -closed synclines are called basins. From Hansen (1969, p. 31, -108). (Fig. 5)</p> -</div> -<p>In strong contrast to Canyonlands, Arches National -Park contains three northwesterly trending major folds -and is bordered on the southwest by a fourth. The largest -and most important are the collapsed Salt Valley and -Cache Valley anticlines, which separate the two most -scenic groups of arches and other erosional forms—Eagle -Park, Devils Garden, Fiery Furnace, and Delicate Arch -on the northeast, and Klondike Bluffs, Herdina Park, and -The Windows section on the southwest. Farther southwest -is the Courthouse syncline, containing the attractive -group of erosional forms called Courthouse Towers (<a href="#fig1">fig. 1</a>). -<span class="pb" id="Page_26">26</span> -Finally, near the southwest edge of the park, is the -Seven Mile-Moab Valley anticline (also known as the -Moab-Spanish Valley anticline), whose southwest limb is -cut off by the Moab fault (figs. <a href="#fig7">7</a>, <a href="#fig23">23</a>). The folds just -named and the sharply contrasting geologic structures of -the two parks are well shown on sheet 2 of the geologic -map of the Moab quadrangle (Williams, 1964), and the -geologic formations are shown in color on sheet 1.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig6"> -<img src="images/pmg022.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="770" /> -<p class="pcap">COMMON TYPES OF FAULTS. Top, Normal, or gravity fault, resulting -from tension in and lengthening of the Earth’s crust. Bottom, -reverse fault, resulting from compression in and shortening -of the Earth’s crust. Low-angle reverse faults generally are called -overthrusts or overthrust faults. In both types, note amount of -displacement and repetition of strata. Displacements may range -from a few inches or feet to many thousands of feet. From Hansen -(1969, p. 116). (Fig. 6)</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_27">27</div> -<div class="img" id="fig7"> -<img src="images/pmg023.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="756" /> -<p class="pcap">PARADOX BASIN, in southeastern Utah and southwestern Colorado, -showing the extent of common salt and major potash deposits -in the Paradox Member of the Hermosa Formation, and the salt -anticlines. Adapted from Hite (1972, fig. 1B). (Fig. 7)</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_28">28</div> -<div class="img" id="fig8"> -<img src="images/pmg024.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="376" /> -<p class="pcap">GEOLOGIC SECTION ACROSS NORTHWEST END OF ARCHES -NATIONAL PARK, showing strata beneath Courthouse syncline and -Salt Valley anticline. For line of section, see <a href="#fig9">figure 9</a>. Caprock -consists of gypsum and shale, from which common salt has been -leached by ground water, covered by alluvium. Heavy slanted lines -near crest of anticline are faults. Adapted from Hite and Lohman -(1973, fig. 13). (Fig. 8)</p> -</div> -<div class="img" id="fig9"> -<img src="images/pmg025.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="553" /> -<p class="pcap">INDEX MAP OF NORTHWESTERN PART OF ARCHES NATIONAL -PARK, showing axes of Courthouse syncline and Salt Valley anticline, -line of section <i>A</i>-<i>A</i>′ in <a href="#fig8">figure 8</a> and line of section <i>B</i>-<i>B</i>′ in -<a href="#fig10">figure 10</a>. Open circles along line of section are sites of test wells -for oil, gas, or potash. Adapted from Hite and Lohman (1973, fig. 12). (Fig. 9)</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_29">29</div> -<p>Arches National Park and most of nearby Canyonlands -National Park lie within what geologists have termed the -“Paradox basin,” which contains a remarkable assemblage -of sediments called the Paradox Member of the Hermosa -Formation. These deposits were laid down in shallow seas -and lagoons during Middle Pennsylvanian time, roughly -300 million years ago (<a href="#fig59">fig. 59</a>). As indicated in <a href="#fig4">figure 4</a>, -the Paradox Member contains, in addition to shale and -limestone, minerals deposited by the evaporation and concentration -of sea water—common salt, gypsum, anhydrite, -and potash salts. For this reason such deposits are -<span class="pb" id="Page_30">30</span> -collectively called evaporites. <a href="#fig7">Figure 7</a> also shows that the -northeastern part of the Paradox basin, which is the -deepest part, contains a series of partly alined anticlines -which have cores of salt and, hence, are called salt anticlines. -As might be expected, roughly alined synclines -intervene between the anticlines, but are not shown because -of space limitations. According to Cater (1970, p. 50): -“The salt anticlines of Utah and Colorado are unique -in North America both in structure and in mode of development.” -To this may be added that they also are -relatively rare in the world.</p> -<p>A section across the Salt Valley anticline and the Courthouse -syncline in the northwestern part of the park is -shown in <a href="#fig8">figure 8</a>, and the axes of these structures are -shown in <a href="#fig9">figure 9</a>.</p> -<p>Normally, a series of roughly parallel northwestward-trending -folds would result from shortening of a segment -of the Earth’s crust by compressive forces from the northeast -and the southwest, but such does not seem to be -the origin of these folds. The folds occur in a relatively -narrow belt along the northeastern part of the Paradox -basin, the deepest part, which was broken by a series of -northwesterly trending normal faults (<a href="#fig6">fig. 6</a>) that cut the -deep-lying Precambrian and older Paleozoic rocks (<a href="#fig8">fig. 8</a>) -prior to the deposition of the salt-bearing Paradox Member -of the Hermosa Formation. Movement along these -faults continued intermittently during and after deposition -of the Paradox, however, and resulted in the formation -of a series of northwesterly trending ridges and -troughs. Following Paradox time, normal sediments derived -from a rising landmass to the northeast began to fill -the basin. These sediments accumulated most rapidly and -to greater thicknesses in the fault-derived troughs. Salt -differs from normal sediments in two properties critical -to the development of salt anticlines: first, salt is considerably -lighter (<a href="#fig10">fig. 10</a>), and, second, salt under pressure -will flow slowly by plastic deformation, much like ice in a -glacier flows slowly downstream. Thus, salt in the troughs -underlying the thicker and heavier masses of sediments -was squeezed into the adjoining ridges, causing them to -<span class="pb" id="Page_31">31</span> -rise. Once started, this process tended to be self-perpetuating, -as the flow of salt from beneath the thick masses -of sediments in the troughs made room for the accumulation -of still greater thicknesses of normal sediments. Consequently, -the troughs receiving most of the sediments -began to form downfolds, or synclines, and the ridges -receiving little or no normal sediments began to form huge -salt rolls that later were to become the cores of the salt -anticlines when finally the ridges too were buried by sediments. -Thus, the cross section (<a href="#fig8">fig. 8</a>) shows about 12,000 -feet of the Paradox Member beneath the crest of the Salt -Valley anticline and only about 2,000 feet beneath the -Courthouse syncline. Near the middle of these structures -farther to the southeast, all the Paradox Member has been -squeezed out from beneath the bordering synclines.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig10"> -<img src="images/pmg026.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="415" /> -<p class="pcap">GRAVITY ANOMALIES OVER SALT VALLEY, along line <i>B-B′</i> shown -in <a href="#fig9">figure 9</a>, and relative densities and shapes of rock bodies beneath. -Densities are in grams per cubic centimeter. Gravity values -are in milligals, as shown. The standard acceleration of gravity is -980.665 centimeters per second per second; 1 gal is equal to 1 -centimeter per second per second, and 1 milligal is one thousandth -of a gal. Modified from Case and Joesting (1972, fig. 2). (Fig. 10)</p> -</div> -<p>The general shape of the Salt Valley anticline is shown -also by cross-section <i>B-B′</i> (<a href="#fig10">fig. 10</a>), taken along the northeast-southwest -<span class="pb" id="Page_32">32</span> -line <i>B-B′</i> in <a href="#fig9">figure 9</a>, which is based upon -so-called gravity anomalies over Salt Valley. The lighter -Paradox Member, having an average density of 2.20, has a -lower gravitational attraction than the heavier rocks on -each side, which have an average density of 2.55.</p> -<p>By this time you are doubtless wondering why prominent -upfolds of the rocks, such as the Salt Valley anticline -and associated Cache Valley anticline and the Seven -Mile-Moab Valley anticline, now underlie relatively deep -valleys bordered by prominent ridges. The formation of -these valleys was not simple and involved many steps -extending over a considerable amount of geologic time, as -portrayed by Cater (1970, fig. 13; 1972, fig. 4). For a part -of the story, let us reexamine the cross section (<a href="#fig8">fig. 8</a>); -the rest of the story will be told in the section on “Uplift -and Erosion.”</p> -<p><a href="#fig8">Figure 8</a> shows that the unnamed upper member of the -Hermosa Formation and the overlying Cutler and Moenkopi -Formations are thickest beneath the Courthouse -syncline but wedge out against the flanks of the anticline. -Although the Chinle Formation and younger rocks appear -to extend across the fold, and may have extended across -this part of the fold, in Colorado all rocks older than the -Jurassic Morrison wedge out against the flanks of the -salt anticlines (Cater, 1970, p. 35) and also in the widest -part of the Salt Valley anticline southwest of the section -in <a href="#fig8">figure 8</a>. The salt anticlines were uplifted in a series of -pulses so that some formations either were not deposited -over the rising structures or were removed by erosion before -deposition of the next younger unit. By Morrison -time the supply of salt beneath the synclines seems to -have become used up; hence, the anticline stopped rising, -and the Morrison and younger formations were deposited -across the structures. Thus, in <a href="#fig4">figure 4</a>, the minimum -thickness of all units older than the Morrison is given -as zero. <a href="#fig4">Figure 4</a> shows the marine Mancos Shale to be -the youngest rock unit exposed in the park, but the Mesaverde -Group of Late Cretaceous age and possibly the -early Tertiary (<a href="#fig59">fig. 59</a>) Wasatch Formation may have -been deposited and later removed by erosion.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_33">33</div> -<h2 class="pcap" id="c9">Uplift And Erosion of The Plateau</h2> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/pmg027.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="205" /> -</div> -<p>Next among the main events leading to the formation -of landforms in the park was the raising and additional -buckling and breaking of the Plateau by Earth -forces partly during the Late Cretaceous but mainly during -the early Tertiary. After uplift and deformation, the -Plateau was vigorously attacked by various forces of -erosion, and the rock materials pried loose or dissolved -were eventually carted away to the Gulf of California by -the ancestral Colorado River. Some idea of the enormous -volume of rock thus removed is apparent when one looks -down some 2,000 feet to the river from any of the high -overlooks farther south, such as Dead Horse Point (<a href="../../51048/51048-h/51048-h.htm#fig15">Lohman, 1974, fig. 15</a>). -Not so apparent, however, is the fact -that younger Mesozoic and Tertiary rocks more than 1 -mile thick once overlaid this high plateau but have been -swept away by erosion. In all, the river has carried -thousands of cubic miles of sediment to the sea and is -still actively at work on this gigantic earth-moving project. -In an earlier report (Lohman, 1965, p. 42) I estimated -that the rate of removal may have been as great as about -3 cubic miles each century. For a few years the bulk of -the sediment was dumped into Lake Mead, but now Lake -Powell is getting much of it. When these and other reservoirs -ultimately become filled with sediment—for reservoirs -and lakes are but temporary things—the Gulf of -California will again become the burial ground.</p> -<p>According to Cater (1970, p. 65-67), who made an intensive -study of the salt anticlines, collapse of their crests -seemingly occurred in two stages—the first stage following -Late Cretaceous folding; the second following uplift -<span class="pb" id="Page_34">34</span> -of the Plateau later in the Tertiary. Solution and removal -of salt by ground water played the leading role in the -ultimate collapse.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig11"> -<img src="images/pmg028.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="472" /> -<p class="pcap">TILTED BLOCK OF ROCKS IN CACHE VALLEY GRABEN, viewed to -the east toward Cache Valley from point on gravelled side road to -Wolfe’s cabin, about half a mile east of paved road. Steep slope on -left composed of Jurassic Morrison Formation, hogback on top -formed by Dakota Sandstone of Late Cretaceous age, and gentle -slopes to right composed of the Mancos Shale of Late Cretaceous -age. (Fig. 11)</p> -</div> -<p>As shown by Dane (1935, pl. 1, p. 121-126), collapse -of the Salt Valley and Cache Valley anticlines was accompanied -by considerable faulting and jointing, particularly -along their northeast sides; by the upward intrusion -of two large areas of the Paradox Member of the Hermosa -Formation, one just northwest of the park and one in the -middle of Salt Valley south of the campground; and by -two downdropped masses of rock known to geologists as -grabens (pronounced gräbǝns)—one just northwest of -the park and one called the Cache Valley graben, which -extends both east and west from Salt Wash. The Cache -Valley graben has preserved from erosion the youngest -rock formations in the park, as shown in <a href="#fig11">figure 11</a>.</p> -<p>The remarkable jointing of the rocks on the northeast -limb of the Salt Valley anticline is shown in <a href="#fig12">figure 12</a>. -All the arches in this section of the park were eroded -through thin fins of the Slick Rock Member of the Entrada -<span class="pb" id="Page_35">35</span> -Sandstone, and some, like Broken Arch, <a href="#fig16">figure 16</a>, -are capped by the Moab Member.</p> -<p>Differences in the composition, hardness, arrangement, -and thickness of the rock layers determine their ability to -withstand the forces of fracturing and erosion and, hence, -whether they tend to form cliffs, ledges, fins, or slopes. -Most of the cliff- or ledge-forming rocks are sandstones -consisting of sand deposited by wind or water and later -cemented together by silica (SiO₂), calcium carbonate -(CaCO₃), or one of the iron oxides (such as Fe₂O₃), but -some hard, resistant ledges are made of limestone (calcium -carbonate). The rock column (<a href="#fig4">fig. 4</a>) shows in general -how these rock formations are sculptured by erosion and -how they protect underlying layers from more rapid erosion. -The nearly vertical cliffs along the lower reaches of -Salt and Courthouse Washes and the Colorado River -canyon upstream from Moab consist of the well-cemented -Wingate Sandstone protected above by the even harder -sandstones of the Kayenta Formation. (See figs. <a href="#fig21">21</a>, <a href="#fig22">22</a>.) -To borrow from an earlier report of mine (Lohman, 1965, p. 17), -“Vertical cliffs and shafts of the Wingate Sandstone -endure only where the top of the formation is capped -by beds of the next younger rock unit—the Kayenta -Formation. The Kayenta is much more resistant than the -Wingate, so even a few feet of the Kayenta * * * protect -the rock beneath.” In some places, as shown in figures <a href="#fig19">19</a> -and <a href="#fig20">20</a>, the overlying Navajo Sandstone makes up the -topmost unit of the cliff.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_36">36</div> -<div class="img" id="fig12"> -<img src="images/pmg029.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="485" /> -<p class="pcap">JOINTED NORTHEAST FLANK OF SALT VALLEY ANTICLINE, viewed -westward from an airplane. Light-colored wedge in middle background -is Salt Valley bordered on extreme left by Klondike Bluffs. -Dark-colored fins and pinnacles on left, of Slick Rock Member of -the Entrada Sandstone, form Devils Garden. Sharp pinnacle above -valley is the Dark Angel. (See <a href="#fig57">fig. 57</a>.) White bands of sandstone -extending to foreground are composed of Moab Member of the -Entrada. Note vegetation in the joints. Photograph by National Park -Service. (Fig. 12)</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_37">37</div> -<p>Last but far from least among the factors responsible -for the grandeur of Arches National Park and the Plateau -in general is the desert climate, which allows one to see -virtually every foot of the vividly colored naked rocks, -and which has made possible the creation and preservation -of such a wide variety of fantastic sculptures. A wetter -climate would have produced a far different, smoother -landscape in which most of the rocks and land forms -would have been hidden by vegetation. On the Plateau -the vegetation grows mainly on the high mesas and the -narrow flood plains bordering the rivers, but scanty vegetation -also occurs on the gentle slopes or flats.</p> -<p>The combination of layers of sediments of different composition, -hardness and thickness, the bending and breaking -of the rocks, and the desert climate, has produced steep -slopes having many cliffs, ledges, and fins with generally -sharp to angular edges, rather than the subdued rounded -forms of more humid regions.</p> -<h2 class="pcap" id="c10">Origin And Development of The Arches</h2> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/pmg030.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="242" /> -</div> -<p>Among the questions commonly asked by visitors -are, “How do arches form?”, “Why are some openings -called windows, others arches?”, “What is the difference, -if any, between arches or windows and natural bridges, -such as those at Natural Bridges National Monument?”, -and “How many arches are there in Arches National -Park?” Before taking up the origin and development of -arches, I shall attempt to explain the differences between -the three types of natural rock openings named above and -comment upon the number of arches.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_38">38</div> -<div class="img" id="fig13"> -<img src="images/map2_lr.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="743" /> -<p class="pcap">INDEX MAP, showing localities where -most of the photographs were taken. -Arrows point to distant views. Numbers -refer to figure numbers. (Fig. 13)<br /><span class="center"><a class="abl" href="images/map2_hr.jpg">High-resolution Map</a></span></p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_40">40</div> -<p>I believe most geologists and geographers are in general -agreement with Cleland (1910, p. 314) that “a ‘natural -bridge’ is a natural stone arch that spans a valley of -erosion. A ‘natural arch’ is a similar structure which, however, -does not span an erosion valley.” According to this -definition, Natural Bridges National Monument includes -three true bridges, whereas all the larger rock openings in -Arches National Park with which I am familiar are properly -termed “arches,” but some are called windows. If we -were to distinguish between arches and windows, we might -say that arches occur at or near the base of a rock wall, -as do the doors of a house or building, whereas windows -are found well above ground level. This distinction was -not followed in naming the rock openings in the park, -however; for example, Tunnel Arch (<a href="#fig14">fig. 14</a>) is considerably -higher above the ground than North Window (figs. -<a href="#fig37">37</a>, <a href="#fig38">38</a>) or South Window (<a href="#fig39">fig. 39</a>).</p> -<p>As to the number of arches in the park, I might begin -by saying that there is no universal agreement as to how -large a rock opening must be to qualify as an arch. The -pamphlet formerly handed to visitors entering the park -proclaimed that “Nearly 90 arches have been discovered, -and others are probably hidden away in remote and rugged -parts of the area,” but the average visitor probably -sees less than a third of this number.</p> -<p>David May, Assistant Chief of Interpretation and Resource -Management, Moab office of National Park Service -(oral commun., Oct. 1973), believes that if only those in -the park having a minimum dimension of 10 feet in any -one direction were considered to be arches, the number -would boil down to about 56 or 57. The most complete -count of arches and other openings in all of southeastern -Utah was made by Dale J. Stevens, Professor of Geography -at Brigham Young University, during the period -February through April 1973. He considered those with -openings of 3 feet or larger and found more than 300 in -southeastern Utah, of which 124 are in Arches National -Park, although he stated that several areas of the park -were not intensively searched because of time limitations -(written commun., July and Sept. 1973). The 124 arches -<span class="pb" id="Page_41">41</span> -and openings are distributed among the several named -areas of the park, as follows: Courthouse Towers, 13; -Herdina Park, 11; The Windows section, 25; Delicate Arch -area, 3; Fiery Furnace, 19; Devils Garden, 25; upper Devils -Garden (northwest of Devils Garden), 14; Eagle Park, 2; -and Klondike Bluffs, 12.</p> -<p>Professor Stevens generally used a range finder or a -steel tape to measure the width and height of the openings -and the width and thickness of the spans, but estimated -a few of the dimensions. In the text descriptions of -arches or captions of figures that follow, I am including -all or part of these measurements, without further acknowledgment.</p> -<p>All the arches in the park were formed in the Entrada -Sandstone, mainly in the Slick Rock Member but partly -in the Slick Rock and Dewey Bridge Members, and a few -in the Slick Rock Member occur not far beneath the base -of the overlying Moab Member. The sandstone of the -three members is composed mainly of quartz sand cemented -together by calcium carbonate (CaCO₃), which also -forms the mineral calcite and the rock known as limestone, -but the Dewey Bridge Member also contains beds -of sandy mudstone. Limestone and calcite are soluble in -acid, even in weak acid such as carbonic acid, HHCO₃, -also written H₂CO₃, formed by the solution of carbon dioxide -(CO₂) in water. Ground water, found everywhere in -rock openings at different depths beneath the land surface, -contains dissolved carbon dioxide derived from decaying -organic matter in soil, from the atmosphere, and -from other sources. Even rainwater and snow contain a -little carbon dioxide absorbed from the atmosphere—enough -to dissolve small amounts of limestone or of calcite -cement from sandstone. The calcite cement in the Entrada -and in many other sandstones is unevenly distributed, -however, so that all the cement is removed first -from places that contain the least amounts, and, once the -cement is dissolved away, the loose sand is carried away -by gravity, wind, or water.</p> -<p>Both nearly flat but slightly irregular beds of sandstone -and relatively thin walls or fins of sandstone are prime -<span class="pb" id="Page_42">42</span> -targets for this differential erosion. Potholes, as shown -in <a href="#fig18">figure 18</a><i>A</i>, may be formed in relatively flat beds by the -dissolving action of repeated accumulations of rainwater -or snowmelt, even in arid regions like the Plateau.</p> -<p>Relatively thin walls, or fins as they are called in parts -of the Plateau including Arches, are targets for the formation -of alcoves and caves by solution of cement and removal -of sand by gravity, wind, and water, aided by the -prying action of frost in joints, bedding planes, or other -openings. Once a breakthrough of a wall or fin occurs, -weakened chunks from the ceiling tend to fall, and natural -arches of various shapes and sizes are produced. Arches -form the strongest shapes for supporting overlying rock -loads, as the rock in the arch is compressed toward each -abutment by the heavy loads. Blocks of compressed rock -beneath a relatively flat ceiling tend to be dislodged also -by expansion due to release of pent-up pressure, until a -strong self-supporting arch is formed. Release of pent-up -pressure in rock walls may help also in initiating the -formation of alcoves or caves in cliff faces. Man, including -the ancient Greeks, Romans, Egyptians, and others, has -long made use of arches in building bridges, aqueducts, -temples, cathedrals, and other enduring edifices.</p> -<p>As vividly shown in <a href="#fig12">figure 12</a>, the Entrada Sandstone -on the northeast flank of the Salt Valley anticline has -been broken by Earth forces into thin slabs mostly 10 to -20 feet thick between nearly parallel joints, but, as will -be noted in the descriptions of individual arches, some -rock walls are only 1 or 2 feet thick, whereas others are -50 feet thick or more. Some weak or thin slabs have -weathered away, leaving the stronger or thicker ones as -towering fins, particularly in the Fiery Furnace and Devils -Garden areas. Jointing on a less spectacular scale also has -broken the Entrada in areas south of Salt Valley, leaving -walls or fins of rock.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_43">43</div> -<div class="img" id="fig14"> -<img src="images/pmg033.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="833" /> -<p class="pcap">TUNNEL ARCH, reached by short trail north of main trail through -Devils Garden. Opening is 26½ feet wide and 22 feet high; span -is about 14 feet thick. (Fig. 14)</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_44">44</div> -<p>Although all the arches in the park were carved from -the Entrada Sandstone, slight differences in their mode of -origin or placement within the Entrada allow them to be -grouped into three classes: (1) vertical arches formed in -the Slick Rock Member alone or in the Slick Rock and -Moab Members, (2) vertical arches formed mainly in the -Slick Rock Member but partly in, and with the aid of, -the incompetent underlying Dewey Bridge Member, and -(3) horizontal arches, or so-called pothole arches, formed -from the union of a vertical pothole and a horizontal cave. -Hereinafter, the three members will be referred to alone, -without reference to the Entrada.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig15"> -<img src="images/pmg034.jpg" alt="" width="721" height="600" /> -<p class="pcap">“BABY ARCH,” just southwest of Sheep Rock in Courthouse Towers -area. For details, see text. (Fig. 15)</p> -</div> -<p>Before giving examples of arches in each of the three -classes, it is appropriate to remark that the arches and -other erosion forms in the park represent but a fleeting instant -in geologic time. Many of the pinnacles or piles of -rock may be the broken remains of former arches, and -many of the arches we see may be gone tomorrow, next -year, or a few hundreds of years and, certainly, before -many thousands of years. On the other hand, many new -arches will form by the processes described above as the -geologic clock ticks on.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_45">45</div> -<div class="img" id="fig16"> -<img src="images/pmg035.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="484" /> -<p class="pcap">BROKEN ARCH, reached by a ½-mile trail leading northward across -field that separates Fiery Furnace from Devils Garden. White thin-bedded -unit at top is the Moab Member, which rests upon the -massive salmon-colored Slick Rock Member. Opening is 59 feet -wide and 43 feet high. (Fig. 16)</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_46">46</div> -<h3 id="c11">Examples of Arches</h3> -<p>Tunnel Arch (<a href="#fig14">fig. 14</a>) is a good example of an arch -eroded entirely within the massive Slick Rock Member. -Just southwest of Sheep Rock (<a href="#fig31">fig. 31</a>) is an unnamed -opening in the lower part of the Slick Rock Member -which I call “Baby Arch,” because it is one of the newest -ones visible from the park road (<a href="#fig15">fig. 15</a>). It is only 25½ -feet wide and 14 feet high and penetrates a wall 14 feet -thick. Note that the breakthrough probably began along -the prominent recessed bedding plane at the base of the -arch. Its youthfulness is also indicated by the sharp, -angular breaks in the ceiling and by the pile of freshly -fallen rocks. Some visitors have asked park personnel why -they have not cleared away such debris! Despite its youthfulness, -the ceiling has already taken on the shape of -an arch.</p> -<p>Broken Arch (<a href="#fig16">fig. 16</a>) was formed near the top of the -Slick Rock Member and is strengthened and protected -by the more resistant overlying Moab Member, which -forms the upper half of the span. The crest is only 6 feet -thick at the thinnest point and is not broken as the name -seems to imply.</p> -<p>Double Arch (<a href="#fig17">fig. 17</a>), “one” of the most beautiful in -the park, is in The Windows section near the east end of -the road. The southeast arch, which is 160 feet wide and -105 feet high, is the second largest in the park, but the -west arch measures only 60 feet wide and 61 feet high. In -common with most arches in The Windows section, these -two arches of the Slick Rock Member rest upon bases of -the weak, easily eroded Dewey Bridge Member. More -rapid erosion of the Dewey Bridge undercut the arches -and hastened their development.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_47">47</div> -<div class="img" id="fig17"> -<img src="images/pmg036.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="852" /> -<p class="pcap">DOUBLE ARCH, in The Windows section. (Fig. 17)</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_48">48</div> -<div class="img" id="fig18"> -<img src="images/pmg037.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="571" /> -<p class="pcap">PROBABLE STEPS IN FORMATION OF POTHOLE ARCH. <i>A</i>, Original -pothole probably formed in relatively level bed of sandstone, such -as this one, which is in an older rock unit—the White Rim Sandstone -Member of the Cutler Formation, a unit not present in Arches. -This pothole, which contains 4 feet of water, is in nearby Canyonlands -National Park (<a href="../../51048/51048-h/51048-h.htm#fig17">Lohman, 1974, fig. 17</a>), just north of the edge -of the White Rim, about 4½ miles north of the confluence of the -Green and Colorado Rivers. Photograph by E. N. Hinrichs. <i>B</i>, Pothole -is being deepened by solution while cliff is receding toward -pothole by weathering. <i>C</i>, As erosion continues, pothole and cave -in cliff face are growing deeper. <i>D</i>, Pothole Arch formed by union -of vertical pothole and horizontal cave. <i>E</i>, Telephoto view of Pothole -Arch from park road near stop 14. Visible span is 90 feet -across and 30 feet high. (Fig. 18)</p> -</div> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/pmg038.jpg" alt="Fig. 18 B" width="500" height="210" /> -</div> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/pmg039.jpg" alt="Fig. 18 C" width="500" height="200" /> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_49">49</div> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/pmg040.jpg" alt="Fig. 18 D" width="500" height="201" /> -</div> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/pmg041.jpg" alt="Fig. 18 E" width="800" height="568" /> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_50">50</div> -<p>The cause of the wavy bedding in the Dewey Bridge -Member, as shown in <a href="#fig17">figure 17</a> but as better shown in the -frontispiece, is not known for sure but generally is regarded -to be the result of irregular slumping during or -just after deposition of the sediments in a body of water, -caused by the weight of overlying sediments.</p> -<p>The last example I shall take up is Pothole Arch (<a href="#fig18">fig. 18</a>), -which differs from all the other examples in that this -arch is roughly horizontal rather than vertical. Most park -visitors, including me, were not aware of this interesting -feature until after publication of the pamphlet “The Guide -to an Auto Tour of Arches National Park,” which, as -previously noted, may be purchased at the Visitor Center. -Pothole Arch caps a ridge high above the road half a mile -northwest of Garden of Eden, so only those who happened -to look up at the right place were aware of its existence.</p> -<p>A different mode of origin than that given in the caption -for <a href="#fig18">figure 18</a> is depicted on a poster in the Visitor -Center, which shows the pothole being formed by a waterfall -having an apparent flow rate of several cubic feet per -second. Potholes can be formed in this manner in places -where sufficient streamflow is available, either continuously -or following rainstorms, but I believe the process -depicted in <a href="#fig18">figure 18</a> is a more likely mode of origin for -Pothole Arch.</p> -<h2 class="pcap" id="c12">How to See the Park</h2> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/pmg042.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="223" /> -</div> -<p>As aptly stated on a poster in the Visitor Center, -how to see the park depends in part upon the question -“How long can you stay?” Inasmuch as the park entrance -and Visitor Center are beside a through U.S. Highway -(163), many motorists first become aware of the park’s -<span class="pb" id="Page_51">51</span> -existence from the entrance sign, and some take time for -at least a quick visit, such as a round trip to The Windows -section, which can be made in an hour or so.</p> -<p>For those who have or take more time and are able to -walk at least short distances, a visit of 1 or 2 days is a -very rewarding experience. Others, particularly avid -shutterbugs and those with camping gear, profitably -spend from several days to a week or more and hike all -or most of the trails.</p> -<p>Regardless of how long you plan to spend, I urge at -least a brief stop at the Visitor Center, where excellent -displays and a narrated slide show help materially in conveying -just what the park has to offer. At the counter you -can purchase a copy of “The Guide to an Auto Tour of -Arches National Park,” which explains the views from -each of 25 numbered stops along the park road, as well -as other reports describing arches or other parks and -monuments.</p> -<p>The park is open the year round, but, like most high -deserts, it gets rather hot in the summer and cold enough -in the winter for occasional snows and is sometimes closed -temporarily because of heavy snowfall. The weather generally -is ideal during the spring and fall. Even though -summer daytime temperatures may exceed 100°F (37.8°C) -and slow down hikers, the nights are cool enough for comfortable -sleeping beneath ample covers.</p> -<p>Before beginning our trip through the park proper, let -us consider a beautiful part many people fail to realize -actually belongs to the park—the Colorado River canyon -forming the southeastern boundary.</p> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/pmg043.jpg" alt="Petroglyph figure" width="500" height="212" /> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_52">52</div> -<h2 class="pcap" id="c13">A Trip Through The Park</h2> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/pmg044.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="257" /> -</div> -<h3 id="c14">Colorado River Canyon</h3> -<p>The southeastern boundary of the park for -about 11 miles is the Colorado River, from the bridge on -which U.S. Highway 163 crosses the river to a point upstream -about half a mile below the mouth of Salt Wash. -Illuminated night float trips down part of this reach are -run during the summer, as noted on <a href="#Page_16">p. 16</a>. Partly paved -State Highway 128 follows the southeast side of the river -for about 30 miles to Dewey Bridge, then goes northward -about 15 miles to Cisco, where it connects with Highway -I-70.</p> -<p>The rocks of the Glen Canyon Group form the southernmost -corner of the park, as shown in <a href="#fig19">figure 19</a>. About 2 -miles northeast of the bridge, we cross the axis of the -Courthouse syncline (<a href="#fig9">fig. 9</a>), which brings the Navajo -Sandstone down nearly to river level, as shown in <a href="#fig20">figure 20</a>. -The underlying Kayenta Formation is largely hidden -by vegetation and alluvial deposits in this view.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_53">53</div> -<div class="img" id="fig19"> -<img src="images/pmg045.jpg" alt="" width="825" height="500" /> -<p class="pcap">GLEN CANYON GROUP, forming southernmost point of park, as -viewed across the Colorado River from State Highway 128 half a -mile above Moab bridge carrying U.S. Highway 163. Massive sandstone -forming about the lower third of cliff is the Wingate Sandstone, -darker thin-bedded sandstones and mudstones forming -middle section of cliff comprise the Kayenta Formation, upper cliff is -the lower part of the Navajo Sandstone. Note that the saltcedar (tamarisk), -which lines both banks of the river, is in full bloom. (Fig. 19)</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_54">54</div> -<div class="img" id="fig20"> -<img src="images/pmg046.jpg" alt="" width="882" height="450" /> -<p class="pcap">NAVAJO SANDSTONE CLIFFS, bordering west bank of Colorado River in Courthouse syncline, from State Highway 128 -about 2 miles above the Moab bridge. Note rounded domes at top of cliff. (Fig. 20)</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_55">55</div> -<div class="img" id="fig21"> -<img src="images/pmg047.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="713" /> -<p class="pcap">MOUTH OF SALT WASH, viewed across Colorado River from point -on State Highway 128, 11 miles above Moab bridge. Dark cliffs on -upper right and left are of Wingate Sandstone capped by thin protective -cover of resistant sandstone beds of the Kayenta Formation. -In background Wingate is overlain by entire Kayenta Formation and -lower part of the Navajo Sandstone. Wingate is underlain to river -level by weathered slope of the Chinle Formation. Water in Salt -Wash is largely backwater from the bankfull river; actual flow in -wash generally is much less but at times reaches flood proportions. -(Fig. 21)</p> -</div> -<p>About 11 miles above the Moab bridge is the mouth of -Salt Wash (<a href="#fig1">fig. 1</a>), as viewed from State Highway 128. -(See <a href="#fig21">fig. 21</a>.) Seventeen miles above the bridge (east of -area shown in <a href="#fig1">fig. 1</a>), we get an excellent view of the -southeast end of the highly faulted Cache Valley anticline, -as shown in <a href="#fig22">figure 22</a>. The background shown in the -<span class="pb" id="Page_56">56</span> -photograph formerly was the easternmost part of the -former monument, but when the monument graduated to -a park on November 16, 1971, this part of Cache Valley -along with most of Dry Mesa was withdrawn from the -park and put under the supervision of the Bureau of Land -Management, also a part of the Department of the -Interior.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig22"> -<img src="images/pmg048.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="592" /> -<p class="pcap">SOUTHEAST END OF FAULTED CACHE VALLEY ANTICLINE, viewed -northwestward across Colorado River from a point on State Highway -128, 17 miles above Moab bridge. High cliff of Wingate Sandstone -on left is capped by thin protective layer of the Kayenta -Formation. About upper third of slope below base of cliff is the -Chinle Formation, below which is the Moenkopi Formation extending -to high-water level. Note bent and broken beds on right. -(Fig. 22)</p> -</div> -<p>As noted on <a href="#Page_16">page 16</a>, part of “Run, Cougar, Run” was -filmed just upstream from the irrigated field in the foreground -of <a href="#fig22">figure 22</a>, in a wide part of the valley called -Professor Valley (<a href="#fig7">fig. 7</a>). This valley and the Richardson -Amphitheater on the southeast side of the river were -named after a Professor Richardson who settled in the -area in the 1880’s. The long abandoned townsite of -Richardson was 1¼ miles due east from the point from -which <a href="#fig22">figure 22</a> was taken.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_57">57</div> -<h3 id="c15">Headquarters Area</h3> -<p>The junction of the park road with U.S. Highway 163 -is shown at the lower left of <a href="#fig23">figure 23</a>, and the entrance -station, Visitor Center, parking lot, and several buildings -are seen at the lower right. Several residences for park -personnel and other buildings are shown in <a href="#fig25">figure 25</a>. As -shown in the lower part of <a href="#fig23">figure 23</a>, the geology at the -park entrance is rather complex, as the park boundary -here is partly along the Moab fault and partly along a -branch fault—both in the Seven Mile-Moab Valley -anticline (<a href="#fig7">fig. 7</a>). The Moab fault extends northwestward -from Moab for more than 30 miles (McKnight, 1940, -p. 120, 121, pl. 1).</p> -<p>As shown in <a href="#fig23">figure 23</a>, soon after leaving the checking -station the park road begins to ascend the first of several -switchbacks, and cuts first into the Slick Rock Member, -then the Dewey Bridge Member, and finally the Navajo -Sandstone the rest of the way to and beyond the top of -the hill.</p> -<p>From points a mile or so up the hill may be seen interesting -features in several directions.<a class="fn" id="fr_5" href="#fn_5">[5]</a> The view to the -southwest is shown in <a href="#fig23">figure 23</a>, to the west are the Three -Penguins (<a href="#fig24">fig. 24</a>). A good view of the Moab Valley is -had by looking southeastward (<a href="#fig25">fig. 25</a>). A well in the -Navajo Sandstone at the base of the hill supplies water -to all the residences and to the Visitor Center, where a -drinking fountain and modern restrooms are available to -the public. Storage is provided by a steel tank hidden in a -ravine above the buildings shown in <a href="#fig25">figure 25</a>.</p> -<p>To the north the wall of Entrada Sandstone is cut by -a normal fault (<a href="#fig6">fig. 6</a>), as shown in <a href="#fig26">figure 26</a>.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_58">58</div> -<div class="img" id="fig23"> -<img src="images/pmg049.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="552" /> -<p class="pcap">FAULTED SEVEN MILE-MOAB VALLEY ANTICLINE. Top, View -toward the southwest from park road about 1 mile above entrance -station. Bottom, Geologic interpretation of photograph in part after -McKnight (1940, pl. 1). Moab fault and branch fault (both normal -faults, <a href="#fig6">fig. 6</a>) unite just beyond ridge of Slick Rock Member. Total -vertical displacement along both faults is about 2,500 feet. H.F., -unnamed upper member of Hermosa Formation; M.F., Moenkopi -Formation; D, downthrown side of faults; U, upthrown side. Valley -fill and slope wash of recent (Holocene) age obscure faults and -underlying rocks. The original sequence of the rocks may be visualized -by placing the Navajo Sandstone, the upper part of which -is exposed at the lower right, on top of the Kayenta Formation, the -lower few feet of which cap and protect the cliffs of Wingate Sandstone -in the background. The Pacific Northwest (gas) Pipeline -mentioned on <a href="#Page_15">page 15</a> is buried beneath the slice of the Moenkopi -Formation between the two faults, which accounts for the disturbed -appearance of the rock. (Fig. 23)</p> -</div> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/pmg050.jpg" alt="Geologic interpretation of photograph" width="883" height="600" /> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_59">59</div> -<div class="img" id="fig24"> -<img src="images/pmg051.jpg" alt="" width="616" height="600" /> -<p class="pcap">THREE PENGUINS, viewed westward from park road about 1 mile -above entrance station. Penguins are carved in massive Slick Rock -Member seen resting upon thin-bedded Dewey Bridge Member. -(Fig. 24)</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_60">60</div> -<div class="img" id="fig25"> -<img src="images/pmg052.jpg" alt="" width="900" height="531" /> -<p class="pcap">MOAB VALLEY, viewed southeastward from park road about 1 mile -above entrance station. Moab fault in about middle of valley, hidden -beneath recent (Holocene) valley fill and slope wash, separates -unnamed upper member of Hermosa Formation just above U.S. -Highway 163 on right from Navajo Sandstone forming hills on left -and ledges in foreground. Park Service residences at base of hill. -White patch bordering Colorado River on northwest is tailings pile -of Atlas Corporation’s uranium mill. Moab and Spanish Valley are -beyond river, and south end of La Sal Mountains forms distant -skyline. (Fig. 25)</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_61">61</div> -<div class="img" id="fig26"> -<img src="images/pmg053.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="583" /> -<p class="pcap">FAULTED WALL OF ENTRADA SANDSTONE, north of park road -about 1 mile above entrance station. Fault is nearly vertical and -normal (<a href="#fig6">fig. 6</a>), but fault trace slopes steeply downward to right, -separating upthrown Slick Rock and Dewey Bridge Members on -left from downthrown Slick Rock Member on right. Light-colored -rock in foreground is Navajo Sandstone. Displacement probably -does not exceed 50 feet. (Fig. 26)</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_62">62</div> -<div class="img" id="fig27"> -<img src="images/pmg054.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="850" /> -<p class="pcap">PARK AVENUE, viewed to the north along trail. (Fig. 27)</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_63">63</div> -<h3 id="c16">Courthouse Towers Area</h3> -<p>About 2.3 miles from the entrance station is a turnoff -and parking area at the south end of the Park Avenue -trail (stop 2), which is about 1 mile long and ends at -another parking area 1.7 miles farther north. An interesting -hike is best made from south to north in a downhill -direction, and hikers generally meet the cars of relatives -or friends awaiting them at the northern parking area. The -trail begins in a canyon cut in the soft Dewey Bridge -Member and walled by high fins of the Slick Rock Member -(<a href="#fig27">fig. 27</a>), but farther north the canyon is floored by the -bare Navajo Sandstone. The avenue was named from the -resemblance of the east wall to a row of tall buildings. -Atop the west wall, just to the left of the view in -<a href="#fig27">figure 27</a>, are two balanced rocks (<a href="#fig28">fig. 28</a>). The one on the left, -which resembles somewhat the head of an Egyptian queen, -is offset to the right along a bedding plane, and this offset -may have been caused by an earthquake.</p> -<p>As we progress toward Courthouse Towers proper, lofty -fins and monoliths lie mostly on our left, and to the right -are fine distant views of the La Sal Mountains (stop 4). -A general view of the Courthouse Towers is shown in -<a href="#fig29">figure 29</a>, and closeups of two of the named rock sculptures—the -Three Gossips and Sheep Rock—are shown in -figures <a href="#fig30">30</a> and <a href="#fig31">31</a>. Just beyond Sheep Rock, which some -think resembles the Sphinx, we see “Baby Arch,” shown -in <a href="#fig15">figure 15</a>.</p> -<p>Five miles from the entrance station, the road crosses -Courthouse Wash on a modern bridge (stop 6)—a -distinct improvement over the two tracks in the sand we -used in 1946. The Courthouse syncline, named after the -wash, extends northwestward through here. (See figs. <a href="#fig8">8</a>, -<a href="#fig9">9</a>, <a href="#fig20">20</a>.) About a mile west of the bridge, Professor Stevens -found another pothole arch. A mile and a half north of the -bridge is stop 7, where attention is called in the booklet -to the vast area of “petrified dunes” east of the road, -which are simply dunelike exposures of the crossbedded -Navajo Sandstone formed originally by the cementation -of a vast area of sand dunes. My view of these was taken -about 1 mile beyond the stop (<a href="#fig32">fig. 32</a>).</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_64">64</div> -<div class="img" id="fig28"> -<img src="images/pmg055.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="845" /> -<p class="pcap">BALANCED ROCKS ON SOUTH WALL OF PARK AVENUE, at south end of trail. (Fig. 28)</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_65">65</div> -<div class="img" id="fig29"> -<img src="images/pmg056.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="679" /> -<p class="pcap">COURTHOUSE TOWERS, viewed to the northwest from point on -park road about three-fourths of a mile northeast of the south end -of Park Avenue trail. Sandstone towers are Slick Rock Member -resting on Dewey Bridge Member, which also forms foreground. -Three Gossips at upper left, Sheep Rock just beyond. The Organ -and Tower of Babel are on right. (Fig. 29)</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_66">66</div> -<div class="img" id="fig30"> -<img src="images/pmg057.jpg" alt="" width="547" height="801" /> -<p class="pcap">THE THREE GOSSIPS, shown at upper left of <a href="#fig29">figure 29</a>. (Fig. 30)</p> -</div> -<div class="img" id="fig31"> -<img src="images/pmg058.jpg" alt="" width="480" height="800" /> -<p class="pcap">SHEEP ROCK, shown on center-left skyline in <a href="#fig29">figure 29</a>. (Fig. 31)</p> -</div> -<p>West of the road between the petrified dunes and The -Windows section, the Entrada Sandstone, particularly the -Dewey Bridge Member, has been weathered into grotesque -spires and pinnacles resembling the so-called “hoodoos and -goblins” in Goblin Valley State Park, just north of Hanksville, -Utah. Typical examples of “hoodoos and goblins” are -shown in <a href="#fig33">figure 33</a> (near stop 8). It seems reasonable to -assume that some of these spires are the skeletal remains -of former arch abutments. From here may be seen North -and South Windows and Turret Arch on the skyline to -the northeast (figs. <a href="#fig37">37</a>-<a href="#fig40">40</a>).</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_67">67</div> -<div class="img" id="fig32"> -<img src="images/pmg059.jpg" alt="" width="908" height="550" /> -<p class="pcap">PETRIFIED SAND DUNES, looking northeast from park road 2.7 -miles north of Courthouse Wash. The Navajo Sandstone was once -a huge sandpile of dunes laid down by winds during an arid interval, -so it is interesting to note that the irregularly weathered sandstone -once again resembles a pile of crossbedded dunes. See also -<a href="#fig35">figure 35</a>. (Fig. 32)</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_68">68</div> -<div class="img" id="fig33"> -<img src="images/pmg060.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="595" /> -<p class="pcap">“HOODOOS AND GOBLINS,” weathered from Dewey Bridge Member, -viewed northwest from park road about 2½ miles north of Courthouse -Wash. (Fig. 33)</p> -</div> -<h3 id="c17">The Windows Section</h3> -<p>The Windows section, one of the most beautiful parts -of the park, once was the only readily accessible part of -the former monument and is still the only collection of -arches seen by many visitors who either do not have or do -not take time to travel farther north. All the arches and -erosion forms are on or near a high crest called Elephant -Butte (Dane, 1935, p. 126, 127), which separates Salt -Valley from the Courthouse syncline. The ridge also marks -the south edge of several minor anticlines and synclines -termed by Dane the “Elephant Butte folds.”</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_69">69</div> -<div class="img" id="fig34"> -<img src="images/pmg061.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="524" /> -<p class="pcap">EYE OF THE WHALE, one of several arches in Herdina Park, just -south of jeep trail about 2 miles northwest of Balanced Rock. Cut -in Slick Rock Member. Front opening is 60 feet wide and 27 feet -high, but back opening is only 35 feet wide and 11 feet high. Photograph -by Professor Dale J. Stevens, Brigham Young University. -(Fig. 34)</p> -</div> -<p>Guarding the approach to The Windows section is -Balanced Rock (stop 9). As shown in the frontispiece, it -is accompanied on the right by another balanced rock and -a third one may be seen in the distance. The original route -to The Windows section, pioneered by Goulding, passed -just north of Balanced Rock. Traces of the old road between -here and the Garden of Eden parking area are still -visible but no longer used. To the west, however, a part -of the old road is the starting point of a jeep trail leading -northwestward through Herdina Park to a point near -Klondike Bluffs, where it joins the dirt road in Salt Valley -(<a href="#fig1">fig. 1</a>). Visitors having four-wheel-drive vehicles may -wish to drive at least as far as Eye of The Whale (<a href="#fig34">fig. 34</a>), -<span class="pb" id="Page_70">70</span> -which is about 2 miles northwest of Balanced Rock. There -are several picnic tables at the beginning of this jeep trail, -but no water.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig35"> -<img src="images/pmg062.jpg" alt="" width="734" height="600" /> -<p class="pcap">INTRICATE CROSSBEDS IN NAVAJO SANDSTONE, on north side -of road between Garden of Eden and Cove of Caves. Red crest is -basal part of Dewey Bridge Member. (Fig. 35)</p> -</div> -<p>Just beyond Balanced Rock, a branch paved road turns -eastward 2½ miles to the main parking lots in The -Windows section. Between the Garden of Eden (stop 13) -and Cove of Caves are spectacular exposures of the -Navajo Sandstone showing the crossbedding typical of the -original dunes (<a href="#fig35">fig. 35</a>). Just east of the crossbedded -Navajo Sandstone, shown in <a href="#fig35">figure 35</a>, we pass Cove Arch -and Cove of Caves (stop 10) on the north side of the -road (<a href="#fig36">fig. 36</a>).</p> -<p>Just around the curve east of Cove of Caves is the first -of two parking lots (stop 11) forming a one-way loop at -the end of this branch of the road. From the loop may be -seen the greatest concentration of readily accessible arches -<span class="pb" id="Page_71">71</span> -in the park, all of which are roofed by the Slick Rock -Member and floored by the Dewey Bridge Member. Let -us take the short paved trail from the upper lot to the -southeast, where we come first to North Window (<a href="#fig37">fig. 37</a>). -If we walk through this arch and climb the rock beyond -(<a href="#fig37">fig. 37</a> caption), we see one of the best views in the park -(<a href="#fig38">fig. 38</a>). A short walk south of North Window brings us -to South Window (<a href="#fig39">fig. 39</a>). The other side of this arch -may be reached either by walking around the nearby -southeast end of the fin or by walking through North -Window. A short walk to the southwest brings us to -Turret Arch—the one seen through North Window in -<a href="#fig38">figure 38</a>. <a href="#fig40">Figure 40</a> was taken from the southwest side -of Turret Arch, viewed northeastward toward South -Window, one corner of which appears at the left. Both -North and South Windows may be seen in one photograph -taken from points near Turret Arch.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig36"> -<img src="images/pmg063.jpg" alt="" width="836" height="600" /> -<p class="pcap">COVE ARCH AND COVE OF CAVES, on north side of road just west -of Double Arch and Parade of Elephants. Arch at left and three of -the caves on right are roofed by Slick Rock Member and floored by -Dewey Bridge Member. Arch is 48½ feet wide and 34 feet high. -In time the caves will eat through the 30-foot-thick fin and become -arches. Note sharp contact between Dewey Bridge Member and -Navajo Sandstone. (Fig. 36)</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_72">72</div> -<div class="img" id="fig37"> -<img src="images/pmg064.jpg" alt="" width="762" height="600" /> -<p class="pcap">NORTH WINDOW, viewed to the northeast. Large rock seemingly -partly blocking left end of arch actually is the southeast end of a -fin some 50 feet or more beyond the arch, from -which <a href="#fig38">figure 38</a> was taken. Arch is 93 feet wide and 51 feet high. (Fig. 37)</p> -</div> -<p>From the lower parking lot (stop 12), a short walk by -paved trail takes us to spectacular Double Arch, shown in -<a href="#fig17">figure 17</a>. This arch is visible from the parking lot but is -best seen and photographed from at or near the end of the -trail. Looking westward from near the trail’s end, we see -the Parade of Elephants, shown in <a href="#fig41">figure 41</a>. This feature -is described on pages 16 and 17 of “The Guide to an Auto -Tour of Arches National Park” as “whimsical stone -statuary resembling a circus pachyderm parade. With tail -in trunk, the elephants rumble toward you along a sandstone -roadway.”</p> -<p>Ribbon Arch, on the north side of Elephant Butte, is one -of the most delicate ones in the park (<a href="#fig1">fig. 1</a>). Although it -is 50 feet wide and 55 feet high, the rock span is only -1½ feet wide and 1 foot thick.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_73">73</div> -<p>On the way back to the intersection with the main park -road, we pass stop 14, from which may be seen Pothole -Arch (<a href="#fig18">fig. 18</a>). One and one-half miles north of the intersection -with the main road is the Panorama Point parking -area (stop 15), which affords fine distant views of Salt -and Cache Valleys and points beyond. A roadside exhibit -portrays the gradual development of the Salt Valley anticline, -which supplements my description on pages <a href="#Page_27">27</a>-<a href="#Page_32">32</a>. -A parking space a short distance farther down the hill -(stop 16) provides good distant views of the Fiery Furnace. -I tried several telephoto shots from this viewpoint, -but preferred my closeup views, such as the one shown in -<a href="#fig44">figure 44</a>.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig38"> -<img src="images/pmg065.jpg" alt="" width="710" height="600" /> -<p class="pcap">LOOKING SOUTHWESTWARD THROUGH NORTH WINDOW, from -fin shown beyond left side of North Window in <a href="#fig37">figure 37</a>. Turret -Arch (<a href="#fig40">fig. 40</a>) is seen at right middle ground, south rim of Moab -Valley to left of arch, Colorado River canyon forms left skyline. -(Fig. 38)</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_74">74</div> -<div class="img" id="fig39"> -<img src="images/pmg066.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="612" /> -<p class="pcap">SOUTH WINDOW, viewed toward northeast. Arch is 105 feet wide -and 66 feet high. See text. (Fig. 39)</p> -</div> -<h3 id="c18">Delicate Arch Area</h3> -<p>Two and a half miles northeast of the road intersection -near Balanced Rock, a gravelled side road leads northeastward -to several points of considerable interest. The -photograph in <a href="#fig11">figure 11</a> was taken from this side road -about half a mile northeast of the intersection. About 2 -miles to the northeast, just beyond Salt Valley Wash, is -a parking area (stop 17) at the beginning of the trail past -Wolfe’s Bar-DX Ranch (<a href="#fig3">fig. 3</a>) to famed Delicate Arch, -which is featured on the front cover. Although the trail -to the arch is only 1½ miles long, it crosses several hills -at the outset, then climbs 500 feet, mostly on bare Entrada -Sandstone, so is considered quite strenuous, particularly -<span class="pb" id="Page_75">75</span> -in hot weather. The Park Service advises hikers to carry -water. The Walt Disney crew, cameras, gear, cougars, and -all climbed this trail in the hottest part of the summer of -1971 (see <a href="#Page_16">p. 16</a>), while my wife and I were working in -the vicinity. Visitors who do not wish to make the hike -may get a distant view of Delicate Arch by driving to a -parking area (stop 18) 1.3 miles farther east.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig40"> -<img src="images/pmg067.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="612" /> -<p class="pcap">TURRET ARCH, viewed northeast toward South Window, part of -which is visible on left. Small opening on right is visible also in -<a href="#fig38">figure 38</a>. Largest arch is 39 feet wide and 64 feet high; smaller -one is 12 feet wide and 13 feet high. A still smaller one, not visible -in the photograph, is 8 feet wide and only 4½ feet high. (Fig. 40)</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_76">76</div> -<div class="img" id="fig41"> -<img src="images/pmg068.jpg" alt="" width="900" height="522" /> -<p class="pcap">PARADE OF ELEPHANTS, viewed west from end of trail to Double -Arch. Two elephants are on right, one on left. (Fig. 41)</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_77">77</div> -<p>After leaving Wolfe’s Ranch, the trail to Delicate Arch -crosses Salt Wash on a suspension foot bridge (<a href="#fig42">fig. 42</a>). -Just beyond the bridge, a short walk to the left (north) -leads to the Ute petroglyphs shown in the lower photograph -of <a href="#fig2">figure 2</a>. The most difficult part of the trail, on -bare sandstone, is marked by cairns of stones placed at -sufficient intervals to keep hikers from losing the barely -visible trail. When the summit finally is reached and the -last corner rounded, one suddenly sees perhaps the most -sublime view in the park—famed Delicate Arch, framing -part of the La Sal Mountains beyond (<a href="#fig43">fig. 43</a>). This -graceful arch and mighty Landscape Arch (<a href="#fig53">fig. 53</a>) were -considered to be in serious jeopardy during the era of -sonic booms, but hopefully this danger now is past. (See -p. <a href="#Page_16">16</a>-<a href="#Page_17">17</a>.)</p> -<p>It may be of interest to shutterbugs that professional -photographer Hal Rumel lugged an 8- × 10-inch camera -plus a heavy tripod and accessories up the steep trail to -get the excellent photograph of Delicate Arch shown in -<a href="#fig43">figure 43</a>. The late afternoon sun intensified the red somewhat, -but my shots made earlier in the day using both -4- × 5-inch and 35-mm equipment resulted in unwanted -shadows, even though the salmon color of the Slick Rock -Member was more nearly normal.</p> -<p>After leaving the junction with the side road, the main -park road traverses slices of vertical strata squeezed between -faults along the north side of Salt Valley, then -gradually climbs out of the valley for about 2 miles to a -parking area (stop 19), from which good views are had of -the southeast end of Salt Valley and of the grabens in the -west end of Cache Valley. (See <a href="#fig11">fig. 11</a>.)</p> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/pmg069.jpg" alt="Petroglyph figure" width="400" height="140" /> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_78">78</div> -<div class="img" id="fig42"> -<img src="images/pmg070.jpg" alt="" width="693" height="600" /> -<p class="pcap">SUSPENSION FOOT BRIDGE ACROSS SALT WASH, in front of -Wolfe’s cabin at beginning of Delicate Arch trail. (Fig. 42)</p> -</div> -<div class="img" id="fig43"> -<img src="images/pmg071.jpg" alt="" width="655" height="600" /> -<p class="pcap">DELICATE ARCH, from end of trail 1½ miles above Wolfe’s Ranch. -The opening is 33 feet wide and 45 feet high. The left abutment -is only 5 feet wide at the narrowest point. The arch is carved near -the top of the Slick Rock Member, and the top of the span, 19 -feet thick, is capped by a few feet of the more resistant Moab -Member, as is Broken Arch (<a href="#fig16">fig. 16</a>). Photograph by Hal Rumel, -Salt Lake City. (Fig. 43)</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_79">79</div> -<h3 id="c19">Fiery Furnace</h3> -<p>About half a mile farther uphill is a parking area for -viewing the southeastern part of the Fiery Furnace (stop -20), a vast array of towering fins and pinnacles of the -reddish Slick Rock Member separated by narrow slots, -vaguely resembling flames shooting skyward. The view of -the Fiery Furnace in <a href="#fig44">figure 44</a> was taken about 1 mile -farther up the hill. It is not difficult to get lost among this -myriad of fins and narrow slots, so ranger-guided tours -are conducted during the summer.</p> -<p>About 1 mile farther northwest is a parking area (stop -23) from which a short walk to the north end of Fiery -Furnace leads to a narrow slot between high fins (<a href="#fig45">fig. 45</a>), -along which a short sandy trail leads to a recess along the -southwest wall containing Sand Dune Arch (<a href="#fig46">fig. 46</a>). This -hidden arch receives sunshine only near the middle of the -day and is a delightful, shady place to rest.</p> -<p>From the entrance to the slot leading to Sand Dune -Arch, a trail goes half a mile north across an open field to -Broken Arch, shown in <a href="#fig16">figure 16</a>. This field, which separates -the Fiery Furnace and Devils Garden areas, is seen -from the air in <a href="#fig12">figure 12</a>.</p> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/pmg072.jpg" alt="Petroglyph figure" width="300" height="281" /> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_80">80</div> -<div class="img" id="fig44"> -<img src="images/pmg073.jpg" alt="" width="937" height="500" /> -<p class="pcap">FIERY FURNACE, viewed northwest along park road about 1 mile northwest from stop 20. Fins and spires are of the jointed -Slick Rock Member (<a href="#fig12">fig. 12</a>), but the top of the Dewey Bridge Member is seen to the right of the curve in the road. (Fig. 44)</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_81">81</div> -<div class="img" id="fig45"> -<img src="images/pmg074.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="849" /> -<p class="pcap">TRAIL TO SAND DUNE ARCH, looking northwest away from arch, -between towering fins of Slick Rock Member, at northwest end -of Fiery Furnace. Southeast end of Devils Garden in distance. -(Fig. 45)</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_82">82</div> -<div class="img" id="fig46"> -<img src="images/pmg075.jpg" alt="" width="760" height="600" /> -<p class="pcap">SAND DUNE ARCH, in recess along southwest wall of narrow slot -shown in <a href="#fig45">figure 45</a>. Slick Rock Member. (Fig. 46)</p> -</div> -<h3 id="c20">Salt Valley and Klondike Bluffs</h3> -<p>Before proceeding to the end of the paved road, let us -take an unimproved side road, which turns south about a -third of a mile beyond the last stop, in order to see more -of Salt Valley and to visit Klondike Bluffs in the northwestern -part of the park. After descending 2.3 miles of -winding road we reach the normally dry bed of Salt Valley -Wash, and turn abruptly to the northwest. For the next -three-fourths of a mile the “road” is simply two tracks in -the loose, sandy bed of the wash, which obviously should -not be travelled when flooded or when there is even a -hint of rain. In dry weather, however, this road may be -travelled by ordinary passenger car. This stretch of the -wash cuts through an intruded block of the Paradox -Member of the Hermosa Formation consisting mainly of -gray and brown gypsum, the common salt having been -<span class="pb" id="Page_83">83</span> -dissolved out by ground water. Such an intrusive block of -salt-bearing rock is known to geologists as a diapir—not -to be confused with the garment (diaper) worn by -infants.</p> -<p>From here on the road traverses a rather uninteresting -stretch of valley north of Salt Valley Wash. Eleven miles -from the starting point, the road reaches an intersection -from which a side road leads southwestward three-fourths -of a mile to a parking area at the foot of Klondike Bluffs, -which form the south side of Salt Valley. From here, one -may make a strenuous hike over a primitive trail about -1½ miles long to beautiful Tower Arch (<a href="#fig47">fig. 47</a>).</p> -<p>The valley road continues northwestward from the intersection -to and beyond the northwest end of the park and -connects with roads to Crescent Junction, Thompson, and -the Yellow Cat mining district, north of the park (<a href="#Page_14">p. 14</a>).</p> -<p>Let us return to the paved road and continue our tour -of the park.</p> -<h3 id="c21">Devils Garden</h3> -<p>Turning left (northwest) at the intersection with the -paved park road, we enter Devils Garden—another large -maze of towering red fins separated by narrow slots, which -resembles the Fiery Furnace. After a third of a mile, we -reach stop 24 and walk 100 feet or more to the north for a -good view of Skyline Arch (<a href="#fig48">fig. 48</a>). This arch is very -appropriately named, as it forms the skyline viewed either -from the road on the south or from the campground on -the north, from points south of the amphitheater. Less -well known is the fact that Skyline Arch is clearly visible -to the naked eye or through binoculars from stretches -of Highway I-70 (or old U.S. Highways 6 and 50) about -11 miles to the north. Most arches and other erosion forms -do not change appearance much from day to day or year -to year, but some, like “Baby Arch” (<a href="#fig15">fig. 15</a>), show evidence -of relatively recent origin. In November 1940 -(Abbey, 1971, p. 42) Skyline Arch suddenly doubled in size -by the fall of a large rock that occupied what is now the -northwest half of the arch. Photographs taken before and -after this event appear on pages 24 and 25 of the road -guide and also in the museum at the Visitor Center.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_84">84</div> -<div class="img" id="fig47"> -<img src="images/pmg076.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="732" /> -<p class="pcap">TOWER ARCH, on Klondike Bluffs, viewed eastward. Arch is in -Slick Rock Member but tower on left, after which arch was named, -is capped by a protective layer of the resistant Moab Member. -Opening is 88 feet wide and 43 feet high. Photograph by Robert D. -Miller. (Fig. 47)</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_85">85</div> -<div class="img" id="fig48"> -<img src="images/pmg077.jpg" alt="" width="897" height="550" /> -<p class="pcap">SKYLINE ARCH, viewed north from point about 100 feet north of -stop 24, in Slick Rock Member. Although fins are vertical, note -that the strata seem to dip about 15° to the right, although the -actual dip is to the northeast. (See <a href="#fig50">fig. 50</a>.) (Fig. 48)</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_86">86</div> -<p>Another half mile brings us to a one-way (to right) loop -at the end of the park road. Just beyond the beginning -of the loop is a parking lot and very attractive picnic -area containing several picnic tables shaded by piñon -pines at the foot of a towering red fin of the Slick Rock -Member. Just north of this picnic ground, a paved side -road leads eastward into a truly beautiful, well-equipped -campground comprising both back-in and drive-through -campsites for trailers, campers, or tents; three pairs of -modern restrooms, hydrants, and drinking fountains; and -an amphitheater, where illustrated campfire talks are -given nightly during the summer. The east end of the -campground is shown in <a href="#fig49">figure 49</a>.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig49"> -<img src="images/pmg078.jpg" alt="" width="807" height="600" /> -<p class="pcap">CAMPGROUND IN DEVILS GARDEN, viewed northwestward across -turn-around at southeastern end. (Fig. 49)</p> -</div> -<p>Devils Garden in general and the campground in particular -are on the crest of a ridge separating Salt Valley to -the southwest from the Sagers Wash syncline to the northeast, -which lies north of Yellow Cat Flat and north of the -<span class="pb" id="Page_87">87</span> -area shown in <a href="#fig1">figure 1</a>. From the higher parts of the campground -striking views are to be had toward the north and -northeast, particularly late in the afternoon, as shown in -<a href="#fig50">figure 50</a>.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig50"> -<img src="images/pmg079.jpg" alt="" width="768" height="600" /> -<p class="pcap">VIEW NORTH FROM CAMPGROUND, in late afternoon. Reddish -Slick Rock Member capped by light-colored Moab Member are -seen dipping northeastward toward Sagers Wash syncline. Book -Cliffs, north of Thompson, are 16 miles north on left skyline. -(Fig. 50)</p> -</div> -<p>In about the middle of the one-way loop at the end of -the park road is a well that supplies water to the campground -from early in the spring until the return of freezing -weather late in the fall. The well, which was drilled in -1962 to a depth of 900 feet, obtains a small amount of -water from the Wingate Sandstone. No water was found in -the overlying Navajo and Entrada Sandstones because of -the pronounced dip of the rocks toward the northeast, -which allows any water in these rocks to drain northeastward -(Ted Arnow, written commun., 1963). Water from -this well is pumped to a steel tank in a high part of the -<span class="pb" id="Page_88">88</span> -campground, whence it flows by gravity to the three sets -of restrooms.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig51"> -<img src="images/pmg080.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="738" /> -<p class="pcap">SOUTHEASTERN PART OF DEVILS GARDEN TRAIL, viewed northwestward. -Narrow slot between fins of Slick Rock Member indicates -local spacing of joints. (Fig. 51)</p> -</div> -<p>At the northwest end of the one-way loop is a large -parking area for use by people hiking the Devils Garden -trail. This trail leads to seven of the most interesting -arches in the park, all of which are in the Slick Rock -Member, and there are many more farther to the northwest. -The approximate distances to the seven arches are -given in the paragraphs that follow. The trail is paved -for about 1 mile as far as Landscape Arch (<a href="#fig53">fig. 53</a>), but -from there to Double O Arch (<a href="#fig56">fig. 56</a>) the trail is primitive, -and the Park Service recommends rubber soles as -part of the trail is on bare sandstone. For these reasons, -many visitors hike only as far as Landscape Arch.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_89">89</div> -<div class="img" id="fig52"> -<img src="images/pmg081.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="825" /> -<p class="pcap">PINE TREE ARCH, viewed northeastward. Opening is 46 feet wide -and 48 feet high. Fin is 30 feet thick. (Fig. 52)</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_90">90</div> -<p>Much of the trail, particularly the first part, lies in a -narrow slot between fins of the Slick Rock Member, as -shown in <a href="#fig51">figure 51</a>. After about half a mile, a side trail -to the north leads to a <span class="ss">Y</span>, the right-hand fork of which -goes to Tunnel Arch (<a href="#fig14">fig. 14</a>). The left-hand fork leads to -Pine Tree Arch, obviously named for the piñon pine -framed by this arch (<a href="#fig52">fig. 52</a>).</p> -<p>At the end of the improved part of the trail, we reach -Landscape Arch (<a href="#fig53">fig. 53</a>), claimed by the Park Service to -be the longest known natural arch in the world. According -to Ouellette (1958) it is 291 feet long and 118 feet high, -but Professor Stevens’ measurements indicate it to be 287 -feet long and 106 feet high. At its thinnest point on the -right, the span is only 11 feet wide and 11 feet thick. In -1958 three young men made what was claimed to be the -second known ascent of Landscape Arch, using ropes and -other climbing gear, after which they walked across (Ouellette, -1958). This crossing was made with the permission -of a park ranger, but such permission is no longer given, -for the safety of both the arch and of would-be climbers.</p> -<p>Wall Arch is about a quarter of a mile beyond the end -of the improved part of the trail, and another three-fourths -mile brings us to Navajo Arch (<a href="#fig54">fig. 54</a>) and Partition Arch -(<a href="#fig55">fig. 55</a>). A distant view of Partition Arch may be had -just before reaching Landscape Arch. Part of the remaining -trail to Double O Arch (<a href="#fig56">fig. 56</a>) is on the top of a low -sandstone fin, in part between somewhat higher fins and -in part above lower slots.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_91">91</div> -<div class="img" id="fig53"> -<img src="images/pmg082.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="493" /> -<p class="pcap">LANDSCAPE ARCH, viewed southwestward from near end of improved -part of Devils Garden trail. Note that ground beneath arch -is covered by slope wash and near the middle with what appears -to be a small landslide. Slick Rock Member here is more nearly -buff than salmon colored, because of a smaller content of iron -oxide. Fresh breaks and angular blocks of stone at right abutment -indicate relatively recent rock falls. See text for size. (Fig. 53)</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_92">92</div> -<div class="img" id="fig54"> -<img src="images/pmg083.jpg" alt="" width="742" height="600" /> -<p class="pcap">NAVAJO ARCH, viewed northeastward from a branch of Devils Garden -trail. One of few arches having a flat soil-covered floor. Opening -is 40½ feet wide. Photograph by National Park Service. (Fig. 54)</p> -</div> -<p>Beautiful Double O Arch (<a href="#fig56">fig. 56</a>) is at the end of the -Devils Garden trail about 2½ miles northwest of the trailhead. -About half a mile northwest of the trail’s end is a -prominent landmark called Dark Angel (<a href="#fig57">fig. 57</a>), which is -visible in <a href="#fig12">figure 12</a> and from the unimproved road in Salt -Valley.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_93">93</div> -<div class="img" id="fig55"> -<img src="images/pmg084.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="615" /> -<p class="pcap">PARTITION ARCH, viewed southwestward from near Devils Garden -trail. Arch frames part of south wall of Salt Valley and, on skyline, -mesas south of Moab Valley. Opening is 27½ feet wide and 26 feet -high. A smaller opening to the right measures 8½ feet wide and -8 feet high. Photograph by Dawn E. Reed. (Fig. 55)</p> -</div> -<div class="img" id="fig56"> -<img src="images/pmg085.jpg" alt="" width="853" height="600" /> -<p class="pcap">DOUBLE O ARCH, viewed about north from northwest end of Devils -Garden trail. Large opening is 71 feet wide and 45 feet high; small -one at lower left is 21 feet wide and 11 feet high. Span of large -opening is 11 feet wide and 6 feet thick. Arch frames a part of the -Book Cliffs about 14 miles to the north. Photograph by Hildegard -Hamilton, Flagstaff, Ariz. (Fig. 56)</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_94">94</div> -<div class="img" id="fig57"> -<img src="images/pmg086.jpg" alt="" width="594" height="999" /> -<p class="pcap">DARK ANGEL, a shaft of the Slick Rock Member that is an erosional -remnant of a once high, narrow fin. About one-half mile -northwest of Double O Arch. Photograph by National Park Service. -(Fig. 57)</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_95">95</div> -<div class="img" id="fig58"> -<img src="images/pmg087.jpg" alt="" width="692" height="600" /> -<p class="pcap">“INDIAN-HEAD ARCH,” in upper Devils Garden. Arch and most of -head are in Slick Rock Member, top of head is basal part of Moab -Member. Opening is 4 feet wide and 4½ feet high. Photograph by -Professor Dale J. Stevens, Brigham Young University. (Fig. 58)</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_96">96</div> -<div class="img" id="fig59"> -<img src="images/pmg088.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="816" /> -<p class="pcap">GEOLOGIC TIME SPIRAL, showing the sequence, names, -and ages of the geologic eras, periods, and epochs, and the evolution -of plant and animal life on land and in the sea. The primitive -animals that evolved in the sea during the vast Precambrian Era -left few traces in the rocks because they had not developed hard -parts, such as shells, but hard shell or skeletal parts became -abundant during and after the Paleozoic Era. (Fig. 59)</p> -</div> -<div class="box"> -<p class="center ccap">GEOLOGIC TIME -<br />The Age of the Earth</p> -<p class="pcap">The Earth is very old—4.5 billion years or more according to -recent estimates. Most of the evidence for an ancient Earth is contained -in the rocks that form the Earth’s crust. The rock layers -themselves—like pages in a long and complicated history—record -the surface-shaping events of the past, and buried within them are -traces of life—the plants and animals that evolved from organic -structures that existed perhaps 3 billion years ago.</p> -<p class="pcap">Also contained in rocks once molten are radioactive elements -whose isotopes provide Earth scientists with an atomic clock. Within -these rocks, “parent” isotopes decay at a predictable rate to form -“daughter” isotopes. By determining the relative amounts of parent -and daughter isotopes, the age of these rocks can be calculated.</p> -<p class="pcap">Thus, the results of studies of rock layers (stratigraphy), and of -fossils (paleontology), coupled with the ages of certain rocks as measured -by atomic clocks (geochronology), attest to a very old Earth!</p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_98">98</div> -<p>Professor Stevens found 14 arches in what he called -upper Devils Garden, northwest of Double O Arch, and -two arches in the northwesternmost extension of the park -known as Eagle Park (<a href="#fig1">fig. 1</a>). One of the unnamed arches -in upper Devils Garden is shown in <a href="#fig58">figure 58</a>. I am tentatively -calling it “Indian-Head Arch,” because of the rather -obvious resemblance.</p> -<p>This ends our journey through Arches National Park, -but there remains for consideration a summary of the -principal geologic events leading to the formation of this -beautiful part of the Colorado Plateau and a brief comparison -with the geology of other national parks and -monuments on the Plateau.</p> -<h2 class="pcap" id="c22">Summary of Geologic History</h2> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/pmg089.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="234" /> -</div> -<p>Having finished our geologic trip through Arches -National Park, let us see how the arches and other features -fit into the bigger scheme of things—the geologic age -and events of the Earth as a whole, as depicted in -<a href="#fig59">figure 59</a>. As shown in <a href="#fig4">figure 4</a>, the rock strata still preserved -in the park range in age from Pennsylvanian to Cretaceous, -or from about 300 million to 100 million years old—a -span of about 200 million years. This seems an incredibly -long time, until one notes that the earth is some 4.5 billion -years old, and that our rock pile is but 1/23 or 4½ percent -of the age of the Earth as a whole. Thus, in <a href="#fig59">figure 59</a>, the -rocks exposed in the park occupy only about the left half -of the top whorl of the spiral.</p> -<p>But this is not the whole story. As indicated earlier, -younger Mesozoic and Tertiary rocks more than 1 mile -thick that once covered the area have been carried away -<span class="pb" id="Page_99">99</span> -by erosion, and if we include these the span is increased -to about 250 million years, or nearly a full whorl of -the spiral.</p> -<p>Deep tests for oil and gas tell us that much older rocks -underlie the area, and we have seen that some of these -played a part in shaping the park we see today. In addition -to the Precambrian igneous and metamorphic rocks, -there is about 2,000 feet of Paleozoic sedimentary rocks -older than the Pennsylvanian Paradox Member of the -Hermosa Formation, most of which was laid down in ancient -seas. This includes strata of Cambrian, Ordovician, -Devonian, Mississippian, and Pennsylvanian ages (<a href="#fig59">fig. 59</a>). -There are some gaps in the rock record caused by -temporary emergence of the land above sea level and -erosion of the land surface before the land again subsided -below sea level so that deposition could resume. Silurian -rocks are absent, presumably because, here, the Silurian -Period was dominated by erosion rather than deposition.</p> -<p>While Pennsylvanian and Permian rocks were being -laid down in and southwest of the park, a large area to -the northeast, called by geologists the Uncompahgre Highland -(because it occupied the same general area as part -of the present Uncompahgre Plateau), rose slowly above -sea level. Whatever Paleozoic rocks were on this rising -land plus part of the underlying Precambrian rocks were -eroded and carried by streams into deep basins to the -northeast and southwest. Thus, while some marine or near-shore -deposits were being laid down in and south of the -park, thousands of feet of red beds were being laid down -by streams between the park and what is now the Uncompahgre -Plateau. During part of Middle Pennsylvanian -time, a large area, including the park, known as the Paradox -basin, was alternately connected to or cut off from the -sea, so that the water was evaporated during cutoff periods -and replenished during periods when connection with -the sea resumed. In these huge evaporation basins were -deposited the salt and gypsum plus some potash salts and -shale that now make up the Paradox Member of the -Hermosa Formation.</p> -<p>Arches National Park contains four northwesterly trending -<span class="pb" id="Page_100">100</span> -major folds—the Salt Valley and Cache Valley salt -anticlines, the Courthouse syncline, and the faulted Moab-Seven -Mile anticline, which forms the southwestern border. -How these folds were formed was explained on pages <a href="#Page_27">27</a>-<a href="#Page_32">32</a>. -The history of their growth, however, was a long one -that began about 300 million years ago in the Pennsylvanian -and ended about 50 million years ago in the early -Tertiary. The growth of these folds occurred in two stages. -The first stage, which involved the development of the salt -cores of the anticlines, ended in the Jurassic with the -beginning of Morrison time; the second stage, which involved -additional folding that intensified the magnitude -and shape of existing folds, occurred in the early Tertiary -and was followed later by collapse of the salt anticlines. -The formation and collapse of the Salt Valley and Cache -Valley anticlines was accompanied by pronounced jointing -(<a href="#fig12">fig. 12</a>), which allowed differential erosion to produce the -tall fins in which the arches were formed.</p> -<p>The old Uncompahgre Highland continued to shed -debris into the bordering basins until Triassic time, when -it began to be covered by a veneer of red sandstone and -siltstone of the Chinle Formation (Lohman, 1965). The -area remained above sea level during the Triassic Period -and most, if not all, of the Jurassic Period, although the -Jurassic Carmel Formation was laid down in a sea that -lay just to the west.</p> -<p>Late in the Cretaceous Period a large part of Central -and Southeastern United States, including the eastern -half of Utah, sank beneath the sea and received thousands -of feet of mud, silt, and some sand that later compacted -into the Mancos Shale. This formation, as well as all -younger and some older strata, has long since been eroded -from most of the park area, but a little of the Mancos is -preserved in the Cache Valley graben (<a href="#fig11">fig. 11</a>), and the -entire Mancos Shale and younger rocks are present in -adjacent areas, such as the Book Cliffs north of Green -River, Crescent Junction, and Cisco (figs. <a href="#fig7">7</a>, <a href="#fig50">50</a>, <a href="#fig56">56</a>).</p> -<p>The land rose above the sea at about the close of the -Cretaceous and has remained above ever since, although -inland basins and lakes received sediment during parts -<span class="pb" id="Page_101">101</span> -of the Tertiary Period. Compressive forces in the Earth’s -crust produced some gentle folding of the strata at the -close of the Cretaceous, but more pronounced folding and -some faulting occurred during the Eocene Epoch, when -most of the Rocky Mountains took form. During the Miocene -Epoch igneous rock welled up into older rocks to -form the cores of the nearby La Sal, Abajo, and Henry -Mountains. Additional uplift and some folding occurred -in the Pliocene and Pleistocene Epochs.</p> -<p>Much of the course of the Colorado River was established -during the Miocene Epoch, with some additional -adjustments in the late Pliocene and early Pleistocene -Epochs (Hunt, C. B., 1969, p. 67). Erosion during much -of the Tertiary Period and all of the Quaternary Period -plus some sagging and breaking of the crest of the anticlines, -brought on by solution and lateral squeezing of salt -beds beneath the Moab-Seven Mile, Salt Valley, and -Cache Valley anticlines, combined to produce the landscape -as we now see it.</p> -<p>The Precambrian rocks beneath the area are about 1.5 -billion years old; so an enormous span of time is represented -by the rocks and events in and beneath Canyonlands -National Park.</p> -<p>If we consider the geologic formations that make up the -national parks (N.P.), national monuments (N.M.) (excluding -small historical or archaeological ones), Monument -Valley, San Rafael Swell, and Glen Canyon National -Recreation Area, all in the Colorado Plateau, it becomes -apparent that certain formations or groups of formations -play starring roles in some parks or monuments, some play -supporting roles, and in a few places the entire cast of -rocks gets about equal billing. Let us compare them and -see how and where they fit into the “Geologic Time -Spiral” (<a href="#fig59">fig. 59</a>).</p> -<p>Dinosaur N.M., with exposed rocks ranging in age from -Precambrian to Cretaceous, covers the greatest time span -(nearly 2 billion years), but has one unit—the Jurassic -Morrison Formation—in the starring role, for this unit -contains the many dinosaur fossils that give the monument -its name and fame, although there are several older -<span class="pb" id="Page_102">102</span> -units in supporting roles. Grand Canyon N.P. and N.M. -are next, with rocks ranging in age from Precambrian -through Permian (excluding the Quaternary lava flows -in the N.M.), but here there is truly a team effort, for -the entire cast gets about equal billing. Canyonlands N.P. -stands third in this category, with rocks ranging from -Pennsylvanian to Jurassic, but we would have to give -top billing to the Permian Cedar Mesa Sandstone Member -of the Cutler Formation, from which The Needles, The -Grabens, and most of the arches were sculptured; the Triassic -Wingate Sandstone and the Triassic(?) Kayenta -Formation get second billing for their roles in forming and -preserving Island in the Sky and other high mesas.</p> -<p>Now let us consider other areas with only one or few -players in the cast, beginning at the bottom of the time -spiral. Black Canyon of the Gunnison N.M., cut entirely -in rocks of early Precambrian age with only a veneer of -much younger rocks, obviously has but one star in its -cast. Colorado N.M. contains rocks ranging from Precambrian -to Cretaceous—equal to Dinosaur in this respect, -but Colorado is unique in that all the rocks of the -long Paleozoic Era and some others are missing from the -cast; of those that remain, the Triassic Wingate and the -Triassic(?) Kayenta are the stars, with strong support -from the Jurassic Entrada Sandstone.</p> -<p>All the bridges in Natural Bridges N.M. were carved -from the Permian Cedar Mesa Sandstone Member of the -Cutler Formation, also one of the stars in Canyonlands -N.P. In Canyon de Chelly (pronounced dee shay) N.M. -and Monument Valley (neither a national park nor a -national monument, as it is owned and administered by -the Navajo Tribe), the De Chelly Sandstone Member of -the Cutler Formation—a Permian member younger than -the Cedar Mesa—plays the starring role.</p> -<p>Wupatki N.M. near Flagstaff, Ariz., stars the Triassic -Moenkopi Formation. Petrified Forest N.P. (which now -includes part of the Painted Desert) has but one star—the -Triassic Chinle Formation, in which are found many -petrified logs and stumps of ancient trees. The Triassic-Jurassic -Glen Canyon Group (<a href="#fig19">fig. 19</a>), which includes the -<span class="pb" id="Page_103">103</span> -Triassic Wingate Sandstone, the Triassic(?) Kayenta -Formation, and the Triassic(?)-Jurassic Navajo Sandstone, -receives top billing in recently enlarged Capitol Reef -N.P., but the Triassic Moenkopi and Chinle Formations -enjoy supporting roles.</p> -<p>The Triassic(?)-Jurassic Navajo Sandstone, which has -a supporting role in Arches N.P., is the undisputed star -of Zion N.P., Rainbow Bridge N.M., and Glen Canyon -National Recreation Area, despite the fact that the latter -is the type locality of the entire Glen Canyon Group. The -Navajo also forms the impressive reef at the east edge of -the beautiful San Rafael Swell, a dome, or closed anticline, -now crossed by Highway I-70 between Green River and -Fremont Junction, Utah.</p> -<p>As we journey upward in the time spiral (<a href="#fig59">fig. 59</a>), we -come to the Jurassic Entrada Sandstone, which stars in -Arches N.P., with help from the underlying Navajo Sandstone, -and a supporting cast of both older and younger -rocks. The Entrada also forms the grotesque erosion forms -called “hoodoos and goblins” in Goblin Valley State Park, -north of Hanksville, Utah.</p> -<p>Moving ever upward in the spiral, we come to the Cretaceous—the -age of the starring Mesaverde Group, in -which the caves of Mesaverde N.P. were formed, and -which now house beautifully preserved ruins once occupied -by the Anasazi, the same ancient people who once dwelt -in Arches N.P. and nearby areas.</p> -<p>This brings us up to the Tertiary Period, during the -early part of which the pink limestones and shales of the -Paleocene and Eocene Wasatch Formation were laid down -in inland basins. Beautifully sculptured cliffs, pinnacles, -and caves of the Wasatch star in Bryce Canyon N.P. and -in nearby Cedar Breaks N.M. This concludes our climb -up the time spiral, except for Quaternary volcanoes and -some older volcanic features at Sunset Crater N.M., near -Flagstaff, Ariz.</p> -<p>Thus, one way or another, many rock units formed -during the last couple of billion years have performed on -the stage of the Colorado Plateau and, hamlike, still lurk -in the wings eagerly awaiting your applause to recall them -<span class="pb" id="Page_104">104</span> -to the footlights. Don’t let them down—visit and enjoy -the national parks and monuments of the Plateau, for -they probably are the greatest collection of scenic wonderlands -in the world.</p> -<h2 class="pcap" id="c23">Additional Reading</h2> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/pmg090.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="192" /> -</div> -<p>Many reports covering various aspects of the -area have been cited in the text by author and year, and -these plus a few additional ones are listed in “Selected -References.” A few works of general or special interest -should be mentioned, however.</p> -<p>Between 1926 and 1929 the entire area now included -in the park was mapped geologically in classic reports by -Dane (1935) and by McKnight (1940). These men and -their field assistants mapped the area by use of the plane-table -and telescopic alidade without benefit of modern -topographic maps or aerial photographs, except for topographic -maps of the narrow stretch along the Colorado -River mapped under the direction of Herron (1917). Only -small sections could be reached by automobile, so nearly -all the area was traversed using horses and mules or by -hiking. This work plus mapping done in nearby areas to -the south and to the north (Stokes, 1952) during the -uranium boom of the mid-fifties was used by Williams -(1964) in compiling a geologic map of the Moab quadrangle -at a scale of 1:250,000.</p> -<p>Several early reports on the Colorado River and its -potential utilization contain a wealth of information and -many fine photographs, including two by La Rue (1916, -1925) and one by Follansbee (1929).</p> -<p>You may be interested in brief accounts of the geology -of other national parks and monuments, or other areas of -special interest, such as the reports on the Uinta Mountains -by Hansen (1969), Mount Rainier by Crandell -<span class="pb" id="Page_105">105</span> -(1969), Yellowstone National Park by Keefer (1971), -and ones by me on -Colorado National Monument (Lohman, 1965) and Canyonlands National Park (<a href="../../51048/51048-h/51048-h.htm">1974</a>).</p> -<p>For those who wish to learn more about the science -of geology, I suggest the textbook by Gilluly, Waters, and -Woodford (1968).</p> -<h2 id="c24"><br /><span class="small">Acknowledgments</span></h2> -<p>I am greatly indebted to Bates Wilson, former -Superintendent, and to former Assistant Superintendent -Joe Carithers, for their splendid cooperation in supplying -data and information; to Chuck Budge, former Chief -Ranger; Dave May, Assistant Chief of Interpretation and -Resource Management; Joe Miller, former Maintenance -Engineer; Bob Kerr, new Superintendent; Maxine Newell, -Park Historian and member of the staff at Arches National -Park; Jerry Banta, former Park Ranger at Arches; -and Carl Mikesell, Park Ranger at Arches, for their many -favors.</p> -<p>I am grateful to several colleagues and friends for the -loan of photographs, for geologic help and data, and for -reviewing this report. I am also deeply grateful to my -wife, Ruth, for accompanying me on all the fieldwork -and for her help and encouragement.</p> -<h2 id="c25"><br /><span class="small">Selected References</span></h2> -<dl class="undent"><dt>Abbey, Edward, 1971, Desert solitaire, a season in the wilderness: New York, Ballantine Books, 303 p.</dt> -<dt>Baker, A. A., 1933, Geology and oil possibilities of the Moab district, Grand and San Juan Counties, Utah: U.S. Geol. Survey Bull. 841, 95 p.</dt> -<dt>Baker, Pearl, 1971, The Wild Bunch at Robbers Roost: New York, Aberlard-Schuman, 224 p.</dt> -<dt>Beckwith, Frank, 1934, A group of petroglyphs near Moab, Utah: Santa Fe, N. Mex., El Palacio, v. 36, p. 177-178.</dt> -<dt>Breed, Jack, 1947, Utah’s arches of stone: Natl. Geog. Mag., p. 173-192, August.</dt> -<dt>Case, J. E., and Joesting, H. R., 1972, Regional geophysical investigations in the central Colorado Plateau: U.S. Geol. Survey Prof. Paper 736, 34 p.</dt> -<dt class="pb" id="Page_106">106</dt> -<dt>Cater, F. W., 1970, Geology of the salt anticline region in southwestern Colorado: U.S. Geol. Survey Prof. Paper 637, 80 p.</dt> -<dt>—— 1972, Salt anticlines within the Paradox Basin, <i>in</i> Geologic atlas of the Rocky Mountain region, United States of America: Denver, Colo., Rocky Mtn. Assoc. of Geologists, p. 137, 138, fig. 4.</dt> -<dt>Cleland, H. F., 1910, North American natural bridges, with a discussion of their origins: Geol. Soc. America Bull., v. 21, p. 313-338.</dt> -<dt>Crandell, D. R., 1969, The geologic story of Mt. Rainier: U.S. Geol. Survey Bull. 1292, 43 p.</dt> -<dt>Dane, C. H., 1935, Geology of the Salt Valley anticline and adjacent areas, Grand County, Utah: U.S. Geol. Survey Bull. 863, 184 p.</dt> -<dt>Dellenbaugh, F. S., 1902, The romance of the Colorado River: New York, G. P. Putnam’s Sons, 399 p. [reprinted 1962 by Rio Grande Press, Chicago, Ill.]</dt> -<dt>Everhart, W. C., 1972, The National Park Service, Praeger Library of U.S. Government Departments and Agencies No. 13: New York, Praeger Publishers, p. i-xii, 1-276.</dt> -<dt>Follansbee, Robert, 1929, Upper Colorado River and its utilization: U.S. Geol. Survey Water-Supply Paper 617, 394 p.</dt> -<dt>Gilluly, James, Waters, A. C., and Woodford, A. O., 1968, Principles of geology [3d ed.]: San Francisco, W. R. Freeman & Co., 685 p.</dt> -<dt>Hansen, W. R., 1969, The geologic story of the Uinta Mountains [with graphics by John R. Stacy]: U.S. Geol. Survey Bull. 1291, 144 p.</dt> -<dt>Herron, W. R., 1917, Profile surveys in the Colorado River Basin in Wyoming, Utah, Colorado, and New Mexico: U.S. Geol. Survey Water-Supply Paper 396, 6 p., 43 pls.</dt> -<dt>Hite, R. J., 1972, Pennsylvanian rocks, <i>in</i> Geologic atlas of the Rocky Mountain region, United States of America: Denver, Colo., Rocky Mtn. Assoc. of Geologists, p. 133-137.</dt> -<dt>Hite, R. J., and Lohman, S. W., 1973, Geologic appraisal of Paradox basin salt deposits for waste emplacement: U.S. Geol. Survey open-file report, 75 p.</dt> -<dt>Hunt, Alice, 1956, Archeology of southeastern Utah, <i>in</i> Geology and economic deposits of east-central Utah: Salt Lake City, Intermountain Assoc. of Petroleum Geologists, 7th Ann. Field Conf., p. 13-18.</dt> -<dt>Hunt, C. B., 1956, Cenozoic geology of the Colorado Plateau: U.S. Geol. Survey Prof. Paper 279, 99 p.</dt> -<dt>—— 1969, Geologic history of the Colorado River, <i>in</i> The Colorado River region and John Wesley Powell: U.S. Geol. Survey Prof. Paper 669, p. I-IV, 59-130.</dt> -<dt class="pb" id="Page_107">107</dt> -<dt>Jennings, J. D., 1970, Canyonlands-Aborigines: Naturalist, v. 21, Summer, Special Issue no. 2, p. 10-15.</dt> -<dt>Joesting, H. R., Case, J. E., and Plouff, Donald, 1966, Regional geophysical investigations of the Moab-Needles area, Utah: U.S. Geol. Survey Prof. Paper 516-C, 21 p.</dt> -<dt>Keefer, W. R., 1971, The geologic story of Yellowstone National Park, illustrated by John R. Stacy: U.S. Geol. Survey Bull. 1347, 92 p. [1972].</dt> -<dt>Lansford, Henry, 1972, Boatman in the desert, a passenger-carrying sternwheeler in canyon country: “Empire” [magazine of the Denver Post], Nov. 5, p. 18, 19.</dt> -<dt>La Rue, E. C., 1916, Colorado River and its utilization: U.S. Geol. Survey Water-Supply Paper 395, 231 p.</dt> -<dt>—— 1925, Water power and flood control of Colorado River below Green River, Utah, with a foreword by Hubert Work, Secretary of the Interior, p. 1-100. [Appendix A, A report on water supply, by E. C. La Rue and G. F. Holbrook, p. 101-123; and Appendix B, A geologic report on the inner gorge of the Grand Canyon of Colorado River, by R. C. Moore, p. 125-171]: U.S. Geol. Survey Water-Supply Paper 556, 176 p.</dt> -<dt>Lohman, S. W., 1965, The geologic story of Colorado National Monument [with graphics by John R. Stacy]: Fruita, Colo., Colorado and Black Canyon Natural History Assoc., 56 p.</dt> -<dt>—— 1974, <a href="../../51048/51048-h/51048-h.htm">The geologic story of Canyonlands National Park</a>, with graphics by John R. Stacy: U.S. Geol. Survey Bull. 1327, 126 p.</dt> -<dt>McKnight, E. T., 1940, Geology of area between Green and Colorado Rivers, Grand and San Juan Counties, Utah: U.S. Geol. Survey Bull. 908, 147 p.</dt> -<dt>Ouellette, C. M., 1958, Over the top of Landscape Arch: Desert Mag., p. 13-16, March.</dt> -<dt>Pierson, Lloyd, 1960, Arches National Monument, <i>in</i> Geology of the Paradox basin fold and fault belt: Durango, Colo., Four Corners Geol. Soc. Guidebook, 3d Ann. Field Conf., p. 17-21.</dt> -<dt>Schaafsma, Polly, 1971, Rock art of Utah: Cambridge, Mass., Harvard Univ., Papers of the Peabody Museum of Archaeology and Ethnology, v. 65, 169 p.</dt> -<dt>Stacy, J. R., 1962, Shortcut method for the preparation of shaded-relief illustrations, <i>in</i> Short papers in geology, hydrology, and topography 1962: U.S. Geol. Survey Prof. Paper 450-D, p. D164-D165.</dt> -<dt>Stokes, W. L., 1952, Uranium-vanadium deposits of the Thompsons area, Grand County, Utah, with emphasis on the origin of carnotite ores: Utah Geol. and Mineralogical Survey Bull. 46, 51 p., December.</dt> -<dt class="pb" id="Page_108">108</dt> -<dt>—— 1970, Canyonlands—Geology: Naturalist, v. 21, Summer, Special Issue no. 2, p. 3-9.</dt> -<dt>Walters, H. H., 1956, Pacific Northwest Pipeline—The scenic inch, <i>in</i> Geology and economic deposits of east-central Utah: Salt Lake City, Intermountain Assoc. of Petroleum Geologists, p. 169-170.</dt> -<dt>Williams, P. L., 1964, Geology, structure, and uranium deposits of the Moab quadrangle, Colorado and Utah: U.S. Geol. Survey Misc. Geol. Inv. Map I-360.</dt> -<dt>Wilson, B. E., 1956, Arches National Monument, <i>in</i> Geology and economic deposits of east-central Utah: Salt Lake City, Intermountain Assoc. of Petroleum Geologists, 7th Ann. Field Conf., p. 50-51.</dt> -<dt>Wright, J. C., Shawe, D. R., and Lohman, S. W., 1962, Definition of members of the Jurassic Entrada Sandstone in east-central Utah and west-central Colorado: Bull. Am. Assoc. Petroleum Geologists, v. 46, no. 11, p. 2057-2070.</dt></dl> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/pmg091.jpg" alt="Petroglyph figure" width="500" height="429" /> -</div> -<h2><br /><span class="small">Footnotes</span></h2> -<div class="fnblock"><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_1" href="#fr_1">[1]</a>Mrs. Tanner, of Phoenix, Ariz., is the author of an earlier history of Moab -(her hometown). She has completed a revision entitled, “The Far Country—A -Regional History of Moab and La Sal, Utah,” which will be serialized in -the Moab Times-Independent, after which it will be published. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_2" href="#fr_2">[2]</a>For the benefit of visitors from countries in which the metric system is -used, the following conversion factors may be helpful: 1 inch = 2.54 centimeters, -1 foot = 0.305 meter, 1 mile = 1.609 kilometers, 1 U.S. gallon = 0.00379 -cubic meter. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_3" href="#fr_3">[3]</a>Barrier Creek flows through Horseshoe Canyon in the detached unit of -Canyonlands National Park. The canyon walls are adorned by striking pictographs -(<a href="../../51048/51048-h/51048-h.htm#fig2">Lohman, 1974, fig. 2</a>). “Barrier Canyon style” is named after the -pictographs found in Horseshoe Canyon. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_4" href="#fr_4">[4]</a>Plastic-relief maps are no longer available from the U.S. Army Map Service -but may be obtained from the T. N. Hubbard Scientific Co., Box 105, -Northbrook, Ill. 60062. A topographic map at a scale of 1:250,000 of the -Moab quadrangle and similar maps at a scale of 1:62,500 for the Thompson, -Cisco, Moab, and Castle Valley quadrangles are available from the U.S. Geological -Survey, Denver Distribution Section, Federal Center, Denver, Colo. -80225, from the Canyonlands Natural History Association at Moab, and from -privately owned shops where maps are sold. Most of the park is covered by the -Thompson and Moab quadrangles. The southern part of the park is shown also -on the Moab 4 NW, Moab 4 NE, and Mt. Waas 3 NW quadrangles at a scale -of 1:24,000. A special topographic map of Arches National Park at a scale of -1:50,000 is in preparation by the U.S. Geological Survey. These maps also -may be obtained from the above-listed sources. -</div><div class="fndef"><a class="fn" id="fn_5" href="#fr_5">[5]</a>This is numbered stop 1 in the booklet referred to earlier “The Guide to -an Auto Tour of Arches National Park,” and corresponds to the numeral one -on a small sign at the roadside parking place. Some of the other numbers are -given in the pages that follow. -</div> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_109">109</div> -<h2 id="c26"><br /><span class="small">Index</span></h2> -<p class="center"><a href="#index_A" class="ab">A</a> <a href="#index_B" class="ab">B</a> <a href="#index_C" class="ab">C</a> <a href="#index_D" class="ab">D</a> <a href="#index_E" class="ab">E</a> <a href="#index_F" class="ab">F</a> <a href="#index_G" class="ab">G</a> <a href="#index_H" class="ab">H</a> <a href="#index_I" class="ab">I</a> <a href="#index_J" class="ab">J</a> <a href="#index_K" class="ab">K</a> <a href="#index_L" class="ab">L</a> <a href="#index_M" class="ab">M</a> <a href="#index_N" class="ab">N</a> <a href="#index_O" class="ab">O</a> <a href="#index_P" class="ab">P</a> <span class="ab">Q</span> <a href="#index_R" class="ab">R</a> <a href="#index_S" class="ab">S</a> <a href="#index_T" class="ab">T</a> <a href="#index_U" class="ab">U</a> <a href="#index_V" class="ab">V</a> <a href="#index_W" class="ab">W</a> <span class="ab">X</span> <a href="#index_Y" class="ab">Y</a> <a href="#index_Z" class="ab">Z</a></p> -<p class="center small">[Italic page numbers indicate major references]</p> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_A"><b>A</b></dt> -<dt class="jr">Page</dt> -<dt>Abajo Mountains<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_101">101</a></span></dt> -<dd>artifacts<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_9">9</a></span></dd> -<dt>Abbey, Edward<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_3">3</a></span></dt> -<dt>Aborigines, occupation of area<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_9">9</a></span></dt> -<dt>Acknowledgments<span class="jr"> <i><a href="#Page_105">105</a></i></span></dt> -<dt>Anasazi people, petroglyphs<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_10">10</a></span></dt> -<dt>Anasazi ruins<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_9">9</a>, <a href="#Page_103">103</a></span></dt> -<dt>Ancestral Colorado River<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_33">33</a></span></dt> -<dt>Anomalies, gravity, Salt Valley<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_32">32</a></span></dt> -<dt>Anticlines, salt<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_31">31</a></span></dt> -<dt>Arches, broken remains<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_44">44</a></span></dt> -<dd>examples<span class="jr"> <i><a href="#Page_46">46</a></i></span></dd> -<dd>former abutments<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_68">68</a></span></dd> -<dd>horizontal<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_44">44</a></span></dd> -<dd>how they are formed<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_42">42</a></span></dd> -<dd>natural, defined<span class="jr"> <i><a href="#Page_40">40</a></i></span></dd> -<dd>number in the park<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_40">40</a>, <i><a href="#Page_41">41</a></i></span></dd> -<dd>origin and development<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_37">37</a></span></dd> -<dd>pothole<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_44">44</a></span></dd> -<dd>vertical<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_42">42</a>, <a href="#Page_44">44</a></span></dd> -<dt>Artifacts, La Sal and Abajo Mountains<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_9">9</a></span></dt> -<dt>Aspinall, Wayne, Representative<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_8">8</a></span></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_B"><b>B</b></dt> -<dt>“Baby Arch”<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_46">46</a>, <a href="#Page_63">63</a>, <a href="#Page_83">83</a></span></dt> -<dt>Balanced Rock<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_69">69</a>, <a href="#Page_70">70</a>, <a href="#Page_74">74</a></span></dt> -<dt>Banta, Jerry<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_105">105</a></span></dt> -<dt>Bar-DX Ranch<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_12">12</a>, <a href="#Page_13">13</a>, <a href="#Page_14">14</a></span></dt> -<dt>“Barrier Canyon style”<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_10">10</a></span></dt> -<dt>Bedding, wavy, Dewey Bridge Member<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_46">46</a></span></dt> -<dt>Beeson, Stib<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_13">13</a></span></dt> -<dt>Beginning of a monument<span class="jr"> <i><a href="#Page_1">1</a></i></span></dt> -<dt>Bending of rocks<span class="jr"> <i><a href="#Page_24">24</a></i></span></dt> -<dt>Bennett, Wallace F., Senator<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_8">8</a></span></dt> -<dt>Beroni, Pete<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_14">14</a>, <a href="#Page_15">15</a></span></dt> -<dt>Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Monument<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_102">102</a></span></dt> -<dt>Book Cliffs<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_100">100</a></span></dt> -<dt>Breaking of rocks<span class="jr"> <i><a href="#Page_24">24</a></i></span></dt> -<dt>Bridge, natural, defined<span class="jr"> <i><a href="#Page_40">40</a></i></span></dt> -<dt>Broken Arch<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_46">46</a>, <a href="#Page_79">79</a></span></dt> -<dt>Brown-Stanton expedition, exploration<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_15">15</a></span></dt> -<dt>Bryce Canyon National Park<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_103">103</a></span></dt> -<dt>Budge, Chuck<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_105">105</a></span></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_C"><b>C</b></dt> -<dt>Cache Valley<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_56">56</a>, <a href="#Page_73">73</a>, <a href="#Page_77">77</a></span></dt> -<dt>Cache Valley anticline<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_25">25</a>, <a href="#Page_32">32</a>, <a href="#Page_34">34</a>, <a href="#Page_55">55</a>, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>, <a href="#Page_101">101</a></span></dt> -<dt>Cache Valley graben<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_34">34</a>, <a href="#Page_100">100</a></span></dt> -<dt>Campground<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_86">86</a></span></dt> -<dd>water supply<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_87">87</a></span></dd> -<dt>Cane Creek anticline<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_24">24</a></span></dt> -<dt>Canyon de Chelly National Monument<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_102">102</a></span></dt> -<dt><i>Canyon King</i><span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_8">8</a></span></dt> -<dt>Canyon Lands Section, Colorado Plateau<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_9">9</a>, <a href="#Page_22">22</a></span></dt> -<dt>Canyonlands National Park<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_3">3</a>, <a href="#Page_9">9</a>, <a href="#Page_15">15</a>, <a href="#Page_102">102</a></span></dt> -<dt>Canyonlands Natural History Association<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_8">8</a></span></dt> -<dt>Capitol Reef National Park<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_103">103</a></span></dt> -<dt>Carithers, Joe<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_105">105</a></span></dt> -<dt>Carmel Formation<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_100">100</a></span></dt> -<dt>Cassidy, Butch<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_12">12</a></span></dt> -<dt>Caves, Entrada Sandstone<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_9">9</a></span></dt> -<dt>Cedar Breaks National Monument<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_103">103</a></span></dt> -<dt>Cedar Mesa Sandstone Member, Cutler Formation<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_22">22</a>, <a href="#Page_102">102</a></span></dt> -<dt>Chinle Formation<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_32">32</a>, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>, <a href="#Page_102">102</a>, <a href="#Page_103">103</a></span></dt> -<dt>“Cisco Cutoff”<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_16">16</a></span></dt> -<dt>Civilian Conservation Corps<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_2">2</a></span></dt> -<dt>Cliff dwellers<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_9">9</a></span></dt> -<dt>Climate, desert<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_35">35</a>, <a href="#Page_51">51</a></span></dt> -<dd>wetter, different landscape produced<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_37">37</a></span></dd> -<dt>Collapse, salt anticlines<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_33">33</a>, <a href="#Page_34">34</a></span></dt> -<dt>Color photographs, equipment used<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_8">8</a></span></dt> -<dt>Colorado National Monument<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_102">102</a></span></dt> -<dt>Colorado Plateau, geologic formations included<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_101">101</a></span></dt> -<dd>rock formations<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_103">103</a>, <a href="#Page_104">104</a></span></dd> -<dd>subdivisions<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_18">18</a></span></dd> -<dd>uranium-vanadium mining<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_14">14</a></span></dd> -<dt>Colorado Plateaus Province<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_18">18</a></span></dt> -<dt>Colorado River, course established<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_101">101</a></span></dt> -<dd>nighttime illuminated float trip<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_16">16</a>, <a href="#Page_52">52</a></span></dd> -<dt>Colorado River canyon<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_35">35</a>, <a href="#Page_51">51</a>, <i><a href="#Page_52">52</a></i></span></dt> -<dt>Cores, salt<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_100">100</a></span></dt> -<dt>Corral mine<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_15">15</a></span></dt> -<dt>Courthouse syncline<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_25">25</a>, <a href="#Page_30">30</a>, <a href="#Page_31">31</a>, <a href="#Page_32">32</a>, <a href="#Page_52">52</a>, <a href="#Page_63">63</a>, <a href="#Page_68">68</a>, <a href="#Page_100">100</a></span></dt> -<dt>Courthouse Towers area<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_25">25</a>, <i><a href="#Page_63">63</a></i></span></dt> -<dd>number of arches<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_41">41</a></span></dd> -<dt>Courthouse Wash<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_2">2</a>, <a href="#Page_3">3</a>, <a href="#Page_18">18</a>, <a href="#Page_35">35</a>, <a href="#Page_63">63</a></span></dt> -<dt>Cove Arch<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_70">70</a></span></dt> -<dt>Cove of Caves<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_70">70</a></span></dt> -<dt>Crossbedding, Navajo Sandstone<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_63">63</a>, <a href="#Page_66">66</a>, <a href="#Page_70">70</a></span></dt> -<dt>Cutler Formation<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_32">32</a>, <a href="#Page_102">102</a></span></dt> -<dd>Cedar Mesa Sandstone Member<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_22">22</a></span></dd> -<dd>White Rim Sandstone Member<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_22">22</a></span></dd> -</dl> -<div class="pb" id="Page_110">110</div> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_D"><b>D</b></dt> -<dt>Dark Angel<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_92">92</a></span></dt> -<dt>De Chelly Sandstone Member, Cutler Formation<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_102">102</a></span></dt> -<dt>Dead Horse Point<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_33">33</a></span></dt> -<dt>Dedication of the park<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_8">8</a></span></dt> -<dt>Delicate Arch<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_16">16</a>, <a href="#Page_25">25</a>, <a href="#Page_74">74</a>, <a href="#Page_75">75</a>, <a href="#Page_77">77</a></span></dt> -<dt>Delicate Arch area, number of arches<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_41">41</a></span></dt> -<dt>Density, average, Paradox Member<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_32">32</a></span></dt> -<dt>Deposition of rock materials, environments<span class="jr"> <i><a href="#Page_20">20</a></i></span></dt> -<dt>Desert varnish<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_10">10</a></span></dt> -<dt>Development of the arches<span class="jr"> <i><a href="#Page_37">37</a></i></span></dt> -<dt>Devils Garden<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_2">2</a>, <a href="#Page_5">5</a>, <a href="#Page_25">25</a>, <a href="#Page_79">79</a>, <i><a href="#Page_83">83</a></i>, <a href="#Page_86">86</a></span></dt> -<dd>fins<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_42">42</a></span></dd> -<dd>number of arches<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_41">41</a></span></dd> -<dd>trail<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_88">88</a>, <a href="#Page_92">92</a></span></dd> -<dt>Dewey Bridge<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_52">52</a></span></dt> -<dt>Dewey Bridge Member<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_46">46</a>, <a href="#Page_63">63</a></span></dt> -<dd>Entrada Sandstone, composition<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_41">41</a></span></dd> -<dd class="ddt">“hoodoos and goblins”<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_66">66</a></span></dd> -<dd class="ddt">park road cutting<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_57">57</a></span></dd> -<dd class="ddt">The Windows section<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_71">71</a></span></dd> -<dd class="ddt">vertical arches<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_44">44</a></span></dd> -<dt>“Dewey Road”<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_16">16</a></span></dt> -<dt>Diapir<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_83">83</a></span></dt> -<dt>Differential erosion<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_42">42</a></span></dt> -<dt>Dinosaur National Monument<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_101">101</a>, <a href="#Page_102">102</a></span></dt> -<dt>Dissimilarity of Arches vs. Canyonlands<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_23">23</a>, <a href="#Page_24">24</a></span></dt> -<dt>Double Arch<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_2">2</a>, <a href="#Page_46">46</a>, <a href="#Page_72">72</a></span></dt> -<dt>Double O Arch<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_90">90</a>, <a href="#Page_92">92</a>, <a href="#Page_98">98</a></span></dt> -<dt>Drainage, Arches National Park<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_18">18</a></span></dt> -<dt>Dry Mesa<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_5">5</a>, <a href="#Page_56">56</a></span></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_E"><b>E</b></dt> -<dt>Eagle Park<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_25">25</a>, <a href="#Page_98">98</a></span></dt> -<dd>number of arches<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_41">41</a></span></dd> -<dt>Early dwellers<span class="jr"> <i><a href="#Page_9">9</a></i></span></dt> -<dt>Earthquake, rock offset along bedding plane<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_63">63</a></span></dt> -<dt>Egyptian queen, arch resembling<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_63">63</a></span></dt> -<dt>Eisenhower, Dwight D., Mission 66<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_4">4</a></span></dt> -<dt>Elephant Butte<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_72">72</a></span></dt> -<dt>Elephant Butte folds<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_68">68</a></span></dt> -<dt>Elizondo, Emmett<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_13">13</a></span></dt> -<dt>Entrada Sandstone<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_23">23</a>, <a href="#Page_74">74</a>, <a href="#Page_102">102</a>, <a href="#Page_103">103</a></span></dt> -<dd>arches, modes of origin<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_42">42</a></span></dd> -<dd>caves<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_9">9</a></span></dd> -<dd>cut by normal fault<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_57">57</a></span></dd> -<dd>Moab Member<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_24">24</a></span></dd> -<dd>no water found<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_87">87</a></span></dd> -<dt>Environments of deposition<span class="jr"> <i><a href="#Page_20">20</a></i></span></dt> -<dt>Erosion<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_99">99</a></span></dt> -<dd>Colorado Plateau<span class="jr"> <i><a href="#Page_33">33</a></i></span></dd> -<dt>Evaporation basins<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_99">99</a></span></dt> -<dt>Evaporites<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_30">30</a></span></dt> -<dt>Eye of The Whale<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_69">69</a></span></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_F"><b>F</b></dt> -<dt>Facies changes<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_22">22</a></span></dt> -<dt>“Father of the monument,” J. W. Williams<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_1">1</a>, <a href="#Page_4">4</a></span></dt> -<dt>Faults, Cache Valley anticline<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_34">34</a></span></dt> -<dd>Salt Valley anticline<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_34">34</a></span></dd> -<dt>Fiery Furnace<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_25">25</a>, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>, <a href="#Page_73">73</a>, <i><a href="#Page_79">79</a></i>, <a href="#Page_83">83</a></span></dt> -<dd>number of arches<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_41">41</a></span></dd> -<dt>Fins<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_63">63</a>, <a href="#Page_79">79</a></span></dt> -<dt>Float trip, nighttime illuminated, down Colorado River<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_52">52</a></span></dt> -<dt>Folds<span class="jr"> <i><a href="#Page_24">24</a></i>, <a href="#Page_30">30</a>, <a href="#Page_100">100</a></span></dt> -<dt>Four-wheel-drive vehicles<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_69">69</a></span></dt> -<dt>Fractures<span class="jr"> <i><a href="#Page_24">24</a></i></span></dt> -<dt>Fremont people, occupation of area<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_9">9</a></span></dt> -<dd>pictographs<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_10">10</a></span></dd> -<dt>Frost, prying action<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_42">42</a></span></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_G"><b>G</b></dt> -<dt>Garden of Eden<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_50">50</a>, <a href="#Page_69">69</a>, <a href="#Page_70">70</a></span></dt> -<dt>Gas exploration, deep tests<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_15">15</a>, <a href="#Page_99">99</a></span></dt> -<dt>Geographic setting<span class="jr"> <i><a href="#Page_18">18</a></i></span></dt> -<dt>Geologic age of rocks in park<span class="jr"> <i><a href="#Page_98">98</a></i></span></dt> -<dt>Geologic events forming the Colorado Plateau<span class="jr"> <i><a href="#Page_98">98</a></i></span></dt> -<dt>Geologic history, summary<span class="jr"> <i><a href="#Page_98">98</a></i></span></dt> -<dt>Geologic Time Spiral<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_101">101</a>, <a href="#Page_103">103</a></span></dt> -<dt>Geology, at the park entrance<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_57">57</a></span></dt> -<dt>Glen Canyon Group<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_52">52</a>, <a href="#Page_102">102</a>, <a href="#Page_103">103</a></span></dt> -<dt>Glen Canyon National Recreation Area<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_101">101</a>, <a href="#Page_103">103</a></span></dt> -<dt>Goblin Valley State Park<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_66">66</a>, <a href="#Page_103">103</a></span></dt> -<dt>Gould, Lawrence M.<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_1">1</a></span></dt> -<dt>Goulding, Harry, first person to drive into The Windows section<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_2">2</a>, <a href="#Page_69">69</a></span></dt> -<dt>Grabens<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_34">34</a></span></dt> -<dt>Grand Canyon National Park and National Monument<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_102">102</a></span></dt> -<dt>Gravity anomalies, Salt Valley<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_32">32</a></span></dt> -<dt>Green River<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_103">103</a></span></dt> -<dt>Ground water<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_41">41</a></span></dt> -<dt>“Guide to an Auto Tour of Arches National Park,” (The)<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_5">5</a>, <a href="#Page_50">50</a>, <a href="#Page_51">51</a>, <a href="#Page_72">72</a></span></dt> -<dt>Gulf of California<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_33">33</a></span></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_H"><b>H</b></dt> -<dt>Hastier, (Mrs.) Hazel Wolfe<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_13">13</a></span></dt> -<dt>Headquarters area<span class="jr"> <i><a href="#Page_57">57</a></i></span></dt> -<dt>Henry Mountains<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_101">101</a></span></dt> -<dt>Herdina Park<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_25">25</a>, <a href="#Page_69">69</a></span></dt> -<dd>number of arches<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_41">41</a></span></dd> -<dt>Hermosa Formation, Paradox Member<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_23">23</a>, <a href="#Page_25">25</a>, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>, <a href="#Page_30">30</a>, <a href="#Page_32">32</a></span></dt> -<dt>History, early<span class="jr"> <i><a href="#Page_9">9</a></i></span></dt> -<dd>geologic, summary<span class="jr"> <i><a href="#Page_98">98</a></i></span></dd> -<dt>“Hoodoos and goblins”<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_66">66</a>, <a href="#Page_103">103</a></span></dt> -<dt>Hoover, Herbert, proclamation<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_1">1</a></span></dt> -<dt>Horizontal arches<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_44">44</a></span></dt> -<dt>Horseshoe Canyon, pictographs<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_10">10</a></span></dt> -<dt>Horseshoe Canyon Detached Unit of Canyonlands<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_23">23</a></span></dt> -<dt>Humid regions, subdued rounded landforms<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_37">37</a></span></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_I"><b>I</b></dt> -<dt>Igneous rocks<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_22">22</a>, <a href="#Page_99">99</a></span></dt> -<dt>“Indian-Head Arch”<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_98">98</a></span></dt> -<dt>Iron in the rocks<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_23">23</a></span></dt> -<dt>Island in the Sky<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_102">102</a></span></dt> -</dl> -<div class="pb" id="Page_111">111</div> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_J"><b>J</b></dt> -<dt>Jeep trail<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_69">69</a>, <a href="#Page_70">70</a></span></dt> -<dt>Johnson, Lyndon B., proclamation<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_2">2</a></span></dt> -<dt>Joints<span class="jr"> <i><a href="#Page_24">24</a></i>, <a href="#Page_34">34</a>, <a href="#Page_100">100</a></span></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_K"><b>K</b></dt> -<dt>Kayenta Formation<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_35">35</a>, <a href="#Page_52">52</a>, <a href="#Page_102">102</a>, <a href="#Page_103">103</a></span></dt> -<dt>Kerr, Bob<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_105">105</a></span></dt> -<dt>Klondike Bluffs<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_25">25</a>, <a href="#Page_69">69</a>, <i><a href="#Page_82">82</a></i>, <a href="#Page_83">83</a></span></dt> -<dd>number of arches<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_41">41</a></span></dd> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_L"><b>L</b></dt> -<dt>La Sal Mountains<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_22">22</a>, <a href="#Page_63">63</a>, <a href="#Page_77">77</a>, <a href="#Page_101">101</a></span></dt> -<dd>artifacts<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_9">9</a></span></dd> -<dt>Lake Mead<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_33">33</a></span></dt> -<dt>Lake Powell<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_33">33</a></span></dt> -<dt>Land forms, formation in the park<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_33">33</a></span></dt> -<dt>Landscape Arch<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_16">16</a>, <a href="#Page_77">77</a>, <a href="#Page_88">88</a></span></dt> -<dd>second known ascent<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_90">90</a></span></dd> -<dt>Larson, Tommy<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_13">13</a></span></dt> -<dt>Lloyd, Sherman P., Representative<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_8">8</a></span></dt> -<dt>Lohman, (Mrs.) Ruth<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_105">105</a></span></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_M"><b>M</b></dt> -<dt>Mahan, Russel L.<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_2">2</a></span></dt> -<dt>Mancos Shale<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_32">32</a>, <a href="#Page_100">100</a></span></dt> -<dt>Maxwell, Ross A., investigation of caves<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_9">9</a>, <a href="#Page_10">10</a></span></dt> -<dt>May, David<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_40">40</a>, <a href="#Page_105">105</a></span></dt> -<dt>Melich, Mitchell, Solicitor General<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_8">8</a></span></dt> -<dt>Mesaverde Group<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_32">32</a>, <a href="#Page_103">103</a></span></dt> -<dt>Mesaverde National Park<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_103">103</a></span></dt> -<dt>Metamorphic rocks<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_22">22</a>, <a href="#Page_99">99</a></span></dt> -<dt>Metric unit conversion factors<span class="jr"> <i><a href="#Page_2">2</a></i></span></dt> -<dt>Mikesell, Carl<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_105">105</a></span></dt> -<dt>Miller, Joe<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_105">105</a></span></dt> -<dt>Mission 66, presidential and congressional support<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_4">4</a></span></dt> -<dt>Mississippi River sternwheeler replica<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_8">8</a></span></dt> -<dt>Moab, uranium-vanadium mill<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_14">14</a></span></dt> -<dt>Moab bridge<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_52">52</a></span></dt> -<dt>Moab Canyon<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_15">15</a>, <a href="#Page_18">18</a></span></dt> -<dt>Moab fault<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_26">26</a>, <a href="#Page_57">57</a></span></dt> -<dt>Moab Lions Club<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_1">1</a>, <a href="#Page_8">8</a></span></dt> -<dt>“Moab Mail Road”<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_16">16</a></span></dt> -<dt>Moab Member, Entrada Sandstone<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_24">24</a>, <a href="#Page_35">35</a></span></dt> -<dd>Entrada Sandstone, Broken Arch<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_46">46</a></span></dd> -<dd>composition<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_41">41</a></span></dd> -<dt>“Moab panel”<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_10">10</a></span></dt> -<dt>Moab-Spanish Valley anticline<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_26">26</a></span></dt> -<dt>Moab Valley<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_57">57</a></span></dt> -<dt>Moab Valley-Seven Mile anticline<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_100">100</a>, <a href="#Page_101">101</a></span></dt> -<dt>Moenkopi Formation<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_32">32</a>, <a href="#Page_102">102</a>, <a href="#Page_103">103</a></span></dt> -<dt>Monoliths<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_63">63</a></span></dt> -<dt>Monument, beginning<span class="jr"> <i><a href="#Page_1">1</a></i></span></dt> -<dt>Monument Valley<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_101">101</a>, <a href="#Page_102">102</a></span></dt> -<dt>Morrison Formation<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_32">32</a>, <a href="#Page_101">101</a></span></dt> -<dt>Morton, Rogers C. B., Secretary of the Interior<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_8">8</a></span></dt> -<dt>Moss, Frank E., Senator<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_8">8</a></span></dt> -<dt>Moss Back Member, Chinle Formation<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_15">15</a></span></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_N"><b>N</b></dt> -<dt><a id="xnps">National Park Service</a><span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_8">8</a>, <a href="#Page_12">12</a>, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>, <a href="#Page_75">75</a>, <a href="#Page_90">90</a></span></dt> -<dt>Natural Bridges National Monument<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_3">3</a>, <a href="#Page_37">37</a>, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>, <a href="#Page_102">102</a></span></dt> -<dt>Navajo Arch<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_90">90</a></span></dt> -<dt>Navajo Sandstone<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_24">24</a>, <a href="#Page_35">35</a>, <a href="#Page_52">52</a>, <a href="#Page_103">103</a></span></dt> -<dd>canyon floor<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_63">63</a></span></dd> -<dd>crossbedding<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_63">63</a>, <a href="#Page_66">66</a>, <a href="#Page_70">70</a></span></dd> -<dd>park road cutting<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_57">57</a></span></dd> -<dd>water supply<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_57">57</a>, <a href="#Page_87">87</a></span></dd> -<dt>Navajo Tribe<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_102">102</a></span></dt> -<dt>Needles section, The, Canyonlands National Park<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_16">16</a>, <a href="#Page_102">102</a></span></dt> -<dt>Newell, (Mrs.) Maxine<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_12">12</a>, <a href="#Page_105">105</a></span></dt> -<dt>Nixon, Richard M., Congressional Bill<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_5">5</a></span></dt> -<dt>North Window<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_40">40</a>, <a href="#Page_68">68</a>, <a href="#Page_71">71</a></span></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_O"><b>O</b></dt> -<dt>Oil exploration<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_15">15</a></span></dt> -<dd>Cane Creek anticline<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_24">24</a></span></dd> -<dd>deep tests<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_99">99</a></span></dd> -<dt>Origin of the arches<span class="jr"> <i><a href="#Page_37">37</a></i></span></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_P"><b>P</b></dt> -<dt>Pacific Northwest Pipeline<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_15">15</a></span></dt> -<dt>Painted Desert<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_102">102</a></span></dt> -<dt>Panorama Point<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_73">73</a></span></dt> -<dt>Parade of Elephants<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_72">72</a></span></dt> -<dt>Paradox basin<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_23">23</a></span></dt> -<dt>Paradox Member, Hermosa Formation<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_23">23</a>, <a href="#Page_25">25</a>, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>, <a href="#Page_30">30</a>, <a href="#Page_82">82</a>, <a href="#Page_99">99</a></span></dt> -<dd>Hermosa Formation, average density<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_32">32</a></span></dd> -<dd class="ddt">upward intrusion<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_34">34</a></span></dd> -<dt>Park, a trip through<span class="jr"> <i><a href="#Page_52">52</a></i></span></dt> -<dd>dedication<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_8">8</a></span></dd> -<dd>how to see<span class="jr"> <i><a href="#Page_50">50</a></i></span></dd> -<dd>improvements<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_4">4</a></span></dd> -<dt>Park Avenue, trail<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_63">63</a></span></dt> -<dt>Park Service. <i>See</i> <a href="#xnps">National Park Service</a>.</dt> -<dt>Partition Arch<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_90">90</a></span></dt> -<dt>Petrified dunes<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_63">63</a>, <a href="#Page_66">66</a></span></dt> -<dt>Petrified Forest National Park<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_102">102</a></span></dt> -<dt>Petroglyphs, Ute<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_10">10</a>, <a href="#Page_75">75</a></span></dt> -<dt>Pictographs, Fremont people<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_10">10</a></span></dt> -<dt>Pine Tree Arch<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_90">90</a></span></dt> -<dt>Piñon pines<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_86">86</a></span></dt> -<dt>Pipeline scars, Pacific Northwest Pipeline<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_15">15</a></span></dt> -<dt>Plateau, uplift and erosion<span class="jr"> <i><a href="#Page_33">33</a></i></span></dt> -<dt>Potash occurrence<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_15">15</a></span></dt> -<dt>Pothole Arch<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_50">50</a>, <a href="#Page_73">73</a></span></dt> -<dt>Pothole arches<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_44">44</a></span></dt> -<dt>Powell, John Wesley, Canyonlands National Park<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_15">15</a></span></dt> -<dt>Professor Valley<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_56">56</a></span></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_R"><b>R</b></dt> -<dt>Rainbow Bridge National Monument<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_103">103</a></span></dt> -<dt>Rainwater<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_41">41</a>, <a href="#Page_42">42</a></span></dt> -<dt>Rampton, Calvin L., Utah Governor<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_8">8</a></span></dt> -<dt>Reading, additional<span class="jr"> <i><a href="#Page_104">104</a></i></span></dt> -<dt>References, selected<span class="jr"> <i><a href="#Page_105">105</a></i></span></dt> -<dt class="pb" id="Page_112">112</dt> -<dt>Relief map, shaded, Arches National Park, described<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_18">18</a>, <a href="#Page_19">19</a></span></dt> -<dt>Ribbon Arch<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_72">72</a></span></dt> -<dt>Richardson Amphitheater<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_56">56</a></span></dt> -<dt>Richardson, Professor<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_56">56</a></span></dt> -<dt>Rico Formation<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_23">23</a></span></dt> -<dt>Rison, (Mrs.) Esther Stanley<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_13">13</a></span></dt> -<dt>Rock formations, sculptured by erosion<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_35">35</a></span></dt> -<dt>Rock openings, natural, types<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_37">37</a></span></dt> -<dt>Rock types in the park<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_35">35</a></span></dt> -<dt>Roosevelt, Franklin D., proclamation<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_2">2</a></span></dt> -<dt>Rumel, Hal, photographer<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_77">77</a></span></dt> -<dt>“Run, Cougar, Run”<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_16">16</a>, <a href="#Page_56">56</a>, <a href="#Page_75">75</a></span></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_S"><b>S</b></dt> -<dt>Sagers Wash syncline<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_86">86</a></span></dt> -<dt>Salt, occurrence<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_15">15</a></span></dt> -<dd>properties critical to formation of salt anticlines<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_30">30</a></span></dd> -<dt>Salt anticlines<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_30">30</a>, <a href="#Page_31">31</a>, <a href="#Page_100">100</a></span></dt> -<dd>collapse<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_33">33</a>, <a href="#Page_34">34</a></span></dd> -<dt>Salt-bearing rock<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_83">83</a></span></dt> -<dt>Salt rolls<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_31">31</a></span></dt> -<dt>Salt Valley<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_2">2</a>, <a href="#Page_68">68</a>, <a href="#Page_73">73</a>, <a href="#Page_77">77</a>, <i><a href="#Page_82">82</a></i>, <a href="#Page_83">83</a>, <a href="#Page_92">92</a></span></dt> -<dd>gravity anomalies<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_32">32</a></span></dd> -<dt>Salt Valley anticline<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_25">25</a>, <a href="#Page_30">30</a>, <a href="#Page_31">31</a>, <a href="#Page_32">32</a>, <a href="#Page_73">73</a>, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>, <a href="#Page_101">101</a></span></dt> -<dd>collapse<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_34">34</a></span></dd> -<dd>fins<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_42">42</a></span></dd> -<dt>Salt Valley Wash<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_3">3</a>, <a href="#Page_74">74</a>, <a href="#Page_82">82</a>, <a href="#Page_83">83</a></span></dt> -<dt>Salt Wash<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_35">35</a>, <a href="#Page_55">55</a></span></dt> -<dd>Anasazi ruins<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_9">9</a></span></dd> -<dd>drainage<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_18">18</a></span></dd> -<dd>grabens<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_34">34</a></span></dd> -<dd>sandstone caves near<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_10">10</a></span></dd> -<dt>Salt Wash Sandstone Member, Morrison Formation<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_14">14</a></span></dt> -<dt>San Juan Basin, natural gas<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_15">15</a></span></dt> -<dt>San Rafael Swell<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_101">101</a>, <a href="#Page_103">103</a></span></dt> -<dt>Sand Dune Arch<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_79">79</a></span></dt> -<dt>Sandstone fins<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_41">41</a>, <a href="#Page_42">42</a></span></dt> -<dt>Schaafsma, Polly, quoted<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_10">10</a>, <a href="#Page_12">12</a></span></dt> -<dt>Scenic drive, Moab to Cisco<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_16">16</a></span></dt> -<dt>“Scenic Inch,” Pacific Northwest Pipeline<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_15">15</a></span></dt> -<dt>Sedimentary rocks<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_20">20</a></span></dt> -<dd>modes of deposition<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_99">99</a></span></dd> -<dt>Seven Mile-Moab Valley anticline<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_26">26</a>, <a href="#Page_32">32</a>, <a href="#Page_57">57</a></span></dt> -<dt>Sevenmile Canyon<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_15">15</a></span></dt> -<dt>Sheep Rock<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_63">63</a></span></dt> -<dt>Skyline Arch<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_83">83</a></span></dt> -<dt>Slick Rock Member, Entrada Sandstone<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_34">34</a></span></dt> -<dd>Entrada Sandstone, composition<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_41">41</a></span></dd> -<dd class="ddt">high fins and pinnacles<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_63">63</a>, <a href="#Page_79">79</a>, <a href="#Page_86">86</a></span></dd> -<dd class="ddt">hiking trail between fins<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_90">90</a></span></dd> -<dd class="ddt">park road cutting<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_57">57</a></span></dd> -<dd class="ddt">salmon<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_77">77</a></span></dd> -<dd class="ddt">The Windows section<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_71">71</a></span></dd> -<dd class="ddt">Tunnel Arch<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_46">46</a></span></dd> -<dd class="ddt">vertical arches<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_42">42</a>, <a href="#Page_44">44</a></span></dd> -<dt>Slumping of sediments, irregular<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_50">50</a></span></dt> -<dt>Snow<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_41">41</a>, <a href="#Page_51">51</a></span></dt> -<dt>Sonic booms, dangers posed to arches<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_16">16</a>, <a href="#Page_17">17</a></span></dt> -<dt>South Window<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_40">40</a>, <a href="#Page_68">68</a>, <a href="#Page_71">71</a></span></dt> -<dt>Spanish explorers<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_12">12</a></span></dt> -<dd>introduction of horses to this country<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_10">10</a></span></dd> -<dt>Squaw Flat Campground<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_16">16</a></span></dt> -<dt>Stanley, Esther<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_13">13</a></span></dt> -<dd>(Mrs.) Flora<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_13">13</a></span></dd> -<dd>Volna<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_13">13</a></span></dd> -<dt>Stevens, Dale J.<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_40">40</a>, <a href="#Page_41">41</a>, <a href="#Page_63">63</a>, <a href="#Page_90">90</a>, <a href="#Page_98">98</a></span></dt> -<dt>Strata, lateral changes across the park<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_22">22</a></span></dt> -<dt>Sundance Kid<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_12">12</a></span></dt> -<dt>Sunset Crater National Monument<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_103">103</a></span></dt> -<dt>Supersonic flights banned, Moab-Times Independent<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_17">17</a></span></dt> -<dt>Suspension bridge, Colorado River<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_16">16</a></span></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_T"><b>T</b></dt> -<dt>Tanner, (Mrs.) Faun McConkie<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_1">1</a></span></dt> -<dt>Taylor, L. L. (Bish)<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_1">1</a></span></dt> -<dt>Temperatures<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_51">51</a></span></dt> -<dt>“The Guide to an Auto Tour of Arches National Park”<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_5">5</a>, <a href="#Page_50">50</a>, <a href="#Page_51">51</a>, <a href="#Page_72">72</a></span></dt> -<dt>The Needles section, Canyonlands National Park<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_16">16</a>, <a href="#Page_102">102</a></span></dt> -<dt>The Windows section<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_25">25</a>, <a href="#Page_41">41</a>, <a href="#Page_46">46</a>, <a href="#Page_51">51</a>, <a href="#Page_66">66</a>, <i><a href="#Page_68">68</a></i>, <a href="#Page_69">69</a>, <a href="#Page_70">70</a></span></dt> -<dt>Three Gossips<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_63">63</a></span></dt> -<dt>Three Penguins<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_57">57</a></span></dt> -<dt>Tower Arch<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_83">83</a></span></dt> -<dt>Tunnel Arch<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_40">40</a>, <a href="#Page_46">46</a>, <a href="#Page_90">90</a></span></dt> -<dt>Turnbow, Mary<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_1">1</a></span></dt> -<dt>Turnbow cabin<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_13">13</a></span></dt> -<dt>Turret Arch<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_68">68</a>, <a href="#Page_71">71</a></span></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_U"><b>U</b></dt> -<dt>Uncompahgre Highland<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_23">23</a>, <a href="#Page_99">99</a>, <a href="#Page_100">100</a></span></dt> -<dt>Uncompahgre Plateau<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_23">23</a>, <a href="#Page_99">99</a></span></dt> -<dt>Uplift, Colorado Plateau<span class="jr"> <i><a href="#Page_33">33</a></i></span></dt> -<dt>Upper Devils Garden<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_98">98</a></span></dt> -<dd>number of arches<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_41">41</a></span></dd> -<dt>Uranium mines<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_14">14</a></span></dt> -<dt>Ute petroglyphs<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_10">10</a>, <a href="#Page_75">75</a></span></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_V"><b>V</b></dt> -<dt>Vanadium mines<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_14">14</a></span></dt> -<dt>Vegetation<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_37">37</a></span></dt> -<dt>Vertical arches<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_42">42</a>, <a href="#Page_44">44</a></span></dt> -<dt>Visitor Center<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_50">50</a>, <a href="#Page_51">51</a>, <a href="#Page_57">57</a>, <a href="#Page_86">86</a></span></dt> -<dt>Volz, J. Leonard<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_8">8</a></span></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_W"><b>W</b></dt> -<dt>Walker, Lester<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_13">13</a></span></dt> -<dt>Wall Arch<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_90">90</a></span></dt> -<dt>Walt Disney crew, “Run, Cougar, Run”<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_75">75</a></span></dt> -<dt>Wasatch Formation<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_32">32</a></span></dt> -<dt>Water supply, Navajo Sandstone<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_57">57</a></span></dt> -<dd>to the campground<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_87">87</a></span></dd> -<dt class="pb" id="Page_113">113</dt> -<dt>White Rim Sandstone Member, Cutler Formation<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_22">22</a></span></dt> -<dt>Wild Bunch, The<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_12">12</a></span></dt> -<dt>Williams, J. W.<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_1">1</a>, <a href="#Page_4">4</a></span></dt> -<dt>Wilson, Bates<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_1">1</a>, <a href="#Page_3">3</a>, <a href="#Page_105">105</a></span></dt> -<dt>Wilson, (Mrs.) Bates<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_3">3</a></span></dt> -<dt>Windows, distinguished from arches<span class="jr"> <i><a href="#Page_40">40</a></i></span></dt> -<dt>Windows section, The<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_25">25</a>, <a href="#Page_46">46</a>, <a href="#Page_51">51</a>, <a href="#Page_66">66</a>, <i><a href="#Page_68">68</a></i>, <a href="#Page_69">69</a>, <a href="#Page_70">70</a></span></dt> -<dd>number of arches<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_41">41</a></span></dd> -<dt>Wingate Sandstone<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_35">35</a>, <a href="#Page_87">87</a>, <a href="#Page_102">102</a>, <a href="#Page_103">103</a></span></dt> -<dt>Wirth, Conrad L.<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_4">4</a></span></dt> -<dt>Wolfe cabin<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_1">1</a>, <a href="#Page_3">3</a>, <a href="#Page_12">12</a>, <a href="#Page_13">13</a>, <a href="#Page_14">14</a></span></dt> -<dt>Wolfe, Fred<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_12">12</a>, <a href="#Page_13">13</a></span></dt> -<dt>Wolfe, John Wesley<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_12">12</a>, <a href="#Page_13">13</a></span></dt> -<dt>Wolfe’s Bar-DX Ranch<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_9">9</a>, <a href="#Page_10">10</a>, <a href="#Page_14">14</a>, <a href="#Page_74">74</a>, <a href="#Page_75">75</a></span></dt> -<dt>Wupatki National Monument<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_102">102</a></span></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_Y"><b>Y</b></dt> -<dt>Yellow Cat area (Thompson’s area)<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_14">14</a></span></dt> -<dt>Yellow Cat Flat<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_86">86</a></span></dt> -<dt>Yellow Cat mining district<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_83">83</a></span></dt> -</dl> -<dl class="index"> -<dt class="center" id="index_Z"><b>Z</b></dt> -<dt>Zion National Park<span class="jr"> <a href="#Page_103">103</a></span></dt> -</dl> -<p><span class="lr"><span class="smaller">★U.S. GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE: 1975—679-138</span></span></p> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/pmg092.jpg" alt="U. S. Department of the Interior, March 3, 1849" width="400" height="401" /> -</div> -<h2 id="c27"><br /><span class="small">Transcriber’s Notes</span></h2> -<ul><li>Retained publication information from the printed edition: this eBook is public-domain in the country of publication.</li> -<li>Corrected a few palpable typos.</li> -<li>Included a transcription of the text within some images.</li> -<li>In the text versions only, text in italics is delimited by _underscores_.</li> -<li>The HTML version contains relative hyperlinks to a companion volume on Canyonlands National Park, Gutenberg eBook #51048.</li> -<li>A third book in the series, on Colorado National Monument, was revised after this book was printed.</li></ul> -<h2>Transcriber’s Note on Linking between eBooks</h2> -<p>This eBook contains “relative” links to other Project Gutenberg eBooks. These -links function correctly whether the books are read online, or installed on a local drive or a website.</p> - -<p>To install these books in another file system, create a subdirectory for each eBook, as in this -outline:</p> - -<dl class="undent"> -<dt>mybooks/</dt> -<dd>40000/</dd> -<dd class="t">40000-h/</dd> -<dd class="t2">40000-h.htm</dd> -<dd class="t2">images/</dd> -<dd class="t3">...</dd> -<dd>40001/</dd> -<dd class="t">40001-h/</dd> -<dd class="t2">40001-h.htm</dd> -<dd class="t2">images/</dd> -<dd class="t3">...</dd> -<dd>...</dd> -</dl> - -<p>Each eBook is in a separate directory; its directory name is the Project Gutenberg number for the eBook.</p> - -<p>Each eBook directory may contain files in various formats; only the HTML files are relevant here; other files -are optional.</p> - -<p>HTML files are in a subdirectory consisting of the Gutenberg number followed by “-h”.</p> - -<p>The HTML file itself has a name consisting of the Gutenberg number followed by “-h”, -with a file extension of “.htm”.</p> - -<p>Associated media files (such as images, MIDI files, etc.) are contained in a further -subdirectory “images”</p> - -<p class="tb">To view these files, open any of the “*-h.htm” files in a web browser.</p> - - - - - - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Geologic Story of Arches National -Park, by S. 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